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COLLEGE OF LIBERAL ARTS
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THE PATAGONIANS
tOKDON: PRINTED BT
SPOTil; WOODE AND CO., NiW-STKEET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STKEKT
AT HOME
WITH
THE PATAGONIANS
A YEAE'S WANBEEINGS OVER UNTRODDEN GROUND
FROM THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
TO THE RIO NEGRO
By GEOEGE CHAWOETH MUSTEES
EETIRED COraiANDEE R.N.
WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON
JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET
1871
7%i? right of translation is reserved
BOSTON UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF LIBERAL ARTS
TO MY FRIEND
" F. W. EGERTON,
o
p
■^ ROYAL NAVY,
)
THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED.
F
PEEFACE.
In submitting the following pages to the public, I am
conscious that some readers who desire exact and
scientific descriptions of the geography and geology of
Patagonia will be disappointed; but it must be urged
as an apology that instruments could not be carried nor
safely used under the circumstances. The course travelled
was as carefully laid down, by the help of a compass, as
was possible ; and the map of the country is so far
accurate, and, if incomplete, at least is not imaginative.
To others who may perhaps eagerly expect tales of stirring
adventure and hair-breadth escapes, such as are usually
recounted as the every-day occurrences of uncivilised life,
I can only express the hope that this faithful record of
life with the Indians all the year round, if not very
sensational, wiU serve at least to make them really at
home with the Tehuelches. It is a pleasanter task to
record my thanks to those by whose assistance the results
of my journey have been utilised ; foremost of whom is the
venerable ex-President of the Eoyal Geographical Society,
Sir EoDERiCK MuRCHisoN, whose kindly reception and intro-
duction of the returned traveller to the Society are grate-
fidly acknowledged. My obligations are scarcely less to
Vm PREFACE.
Clements Markham, C.B., whose unrivalled knowledge
of the early history as well as the geography of South
America has been freely placed at my disposal ; and to
Dr. Hooker, Director of the Eoyal Gardens, Kew, for his
courteous assistance in identifying some of the plants ob-
served : while to Mr. Eudler, of the Museum of Mines, I
am indebted for a careful classification of the various speci-
mens of rocks and minerals collected in the country.
Lastly, the reader will share in my gratitude to Mr.
ZwECKER, wJiose able pencil has created, out of rough
outlines sketched in a pocket-book, the vivid and faithful
illustrations which bring before his eyes the scenery and
incidents of life in Patagonia.
G. C. M.
September 1, 1871.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
FROM TIIE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.
PAGE
Journey Planned. — Preparations. — Passage from Stanle}-. — The Straits. —
First Footsteps in Patagonia. — The Narrows. — Punta Arenas. — Command-
ante Viel. — The Colony. — The Town. — Chilotes and Convicts. — Resources.
— Visit to the Coal Bed. — Lieut. Gallegos. — The Start. — Rio Chaunco. —
The Patagonian Pampas. — Our Party. — Cabeeera del Mar. — Oazy Harbour.
— A useless Chase. — A Fireless Night. — Volcanic Hills. — Pampa Yarns. —
Rio GaUegos. — First Indians. — Sam Slick. — Rio Cuheyli, — Meeting with
Tehuelches. — Caravan of Women. — ' Anglish ' Politeness. — Desert. — Santa
Cruz at last ............ 1
CHAPTER II,
SANTA CRUZ.
Introduction to Chiefs. — Orkeke. — Chilian Deserters. — The Settlement. —
Island of Pabon. — Natural Advantages. — The Mission Station. — Mr. Clarke.
— Our Circle at Pabon. — Expedition to Lake Viedma. — Winter Occupations.
— Work and Play. — Casimiro's Adventures. — His Character.— A Winter
Hunting Excursion. — A Pampa Snow-storm. — The Santa Cruz Valley. — Up
the River. — The Northern Hills. — Pumas. — Devil's Eyes. — Hunting on
Foot. — Intense Cold. — Return of the Deserters. — Visit to the Indian Camp.
— First Night in a Toldo. — Towing a Horse. — Adieu to Santa Cruz . , 33
CHAPTER III.
THE RIO CHICO.
Breaking up of the Camp. — An Idle Day, — A Rash Start. — A Dilemma. —
Alone on the Pampa. — Reunion. — The Kau or Toldo. — The Domestic
Interior. — The Indian Tribes. — Three Races. — Order of the March. — The
Hunt. — Indian Game Law. — Tehuelche Cookery. — Basaltic Hills. — An
Indian Festival. — My First Tehuelche Ball. — Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. — Fording
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Rio Chico. — A Battle. — Death of Cuastro. — Dangerous Times. — Chilian
Conspiracy. — Obsidian Plain and Pass. — First Ostrich Eggs. — Amakaken.
— Lifting the Boulder. — The Devil's Country. — God's Hill. — Condors and
Dinner. — Sunrise on the Cordillera. — The Plague Herald. — Gelgel Aik. —
Escape from Matrimony. — ^Tele. — Eyes of the Desert. — Preparations for
War. — Another Fight. — Water Tigers. — Indian Bravoes. — Iron Ores. — Ship
Rock. — Perch Fishing. — Appley-kaik. — Casimiro's Escape. — Arrival at
Henno 62
CHAPTER IV.
HENNO KAIK TO TECKEL.
Ceremonial of Welcome. — Hinchel's Indians. — Tehuelches and Araucanos. —
Jackechan' and the Chupat Tribe. — My Examination. — Encampment at
Henno. — Peaceful Occupations. — The Oldest Inhabitant. — Chiriq. — The
Hidden Cities. — Modern Legends. — Mysteries of the Cordillera. — Los
Cesares. — La Ciudad Encantada. — Its Whereabouts. — The Indian Cesares.
— The Guanaco. — The Patagonian Ostrich. — Neighbourhood of Chiriq. —
Horseracing. — Indian Horses. — Indian Dogs. — Dog and Lover. — Plaiting
Sinews. — Windy Hill.— Surrounded by Fire. — Young Guanaco. — Arrival
of Grog. — News from Santa Cruz. — Gisk. — Romantic Scenery. — A Pleasant
Neighbourhood. — Fairy Glen.— Breaking a Horse. — Female Curiosity. —
The Wild Cattle Country.— The Forests of the Cordillera.— The Watershed.
Among the Mountains. — Wild Flowers. — A BuU Fight. — The Bull Vic-
torious.— No Christmas Beef. — Teckel. — Change of Quarters . .. . 108
CHAPTER V.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES.
Patagonian Giants. — A Long Walk. — Strength and Good Humour. — Heads of
Hair. — Tehuelche Coquettes. — Dress of Men and Women. — Ornaments and
Cosmetics — Toilette and Bath. — Anns and Implements. — Ancient Bolas
and Arrows. — Saddles and Bridles. — Silversmiths. — Manufacture of
Mantles. — Women's Work. — Diet and Cookery. — Smoking. — Cird Playing.
— Game of Ball. — Ceremonies at Birth. — Childhood. — Marriage. — Funeral
Rites. — Religion. — Demons and Doctors. — Witelicraft and Omens. — Medical
Skill. — Population and Politics. — Etiquette. — Tehuelche Character. —
Natural Affection. — Advice to Travellers 157
CHAPTER VI.
TECKEL TO GEYI UM.
Casimiro's Household. — Carge-kaik. — Quintuhual's Sou. — Woolkein. — Part-
ridges.—Meeting with the Araucanians. — The Cacique Quintuhual.— Esgel-
kaik. — Araucanian Belles.— Communication with Chupat Colony. — Diplaik.
CONTENTS. xi
PAGB
— Ccilficura's Declaration of War. — Tehuelches learn Fishing. — My Indian
Eelatives. — Woodland Rambles. — An Indian Paradise. — The Upper Chupat.
— Cushamon. — Losing Horses. — Oificial Functions. — Message from Las
Manzanas. — Blessing the Liquor. — Casimiro Intoxicated. — Foyel's Encamp-
ment. — Great Parlemento. — Foyel's Ideas. — Gatchen-kaik. — Arrival at
Geylum 189
CHAPTER VII.
LAS MANZANAS.
Catching a Thief. — Miss Foyel. — Start for Las Manzanas. — First View of the
Apple Groves. — Omens of War. — Inaeayal's Tolderia. — Crossing the Eio
Limay. — Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. — Lenketrou's Raid. — A Night of Alarm. —
Bravery of my Cousins. — The Great Cheoeque. — A Mounted Parlemento. —
Apples and Piiiones. — Graviel's Madness. — Las Manzanas. — Cheoeque's
Palace. — The Revels. — Feuds between the Chiefs. — The Picunches and the
Passes to Valdivia. — Trading and Politics. — Resolutions of Peace. — A
Grand Banquet. — Power of Cheoeque. — Araucanian Customs. — Farewell
Presents. — Invitation to Return. — Orkeke's Generosity. — Return to Geylum.
— Outbreak of an Epidemic. — My Pretty Page. — Departure from Geylum . 218
CHAPTER VIII.
GEYLUM TO PATAGONES.
A Sick Camp. — Oerroe Volcanic Hill. — Crime's Deathbed. — Graviel's Promo-
tion.— The Burning Ground. — Hot Springs. — Fighting the Gualichu. — A
Real Fight. — A Soda Lake. — Encampment at Telck. — The Doctor comes to
Grief. — An Obliging Ostrich. — Appointed Chasqui. — Miseries of Pampa
Life. — A Bad Time. — The Plains of Margensho. — Casimiro's Distrust. —
Doctor and Sick Child. — Duties of a Messenger. — Departure of the Chas-
quis. — Travelling Express. — The Paved Pampas. — An Ideal Bandit. —
Letter from the Chupat Colony. — Trinita. — Teneforo's Pampas. — Champayo's
Generosity. — A Morning Drink. — Departure from Trinita. — Valchita. — The
Pig's-Road. — Wild Horses. — The Travesia. — Limit of the Patagonian Fauna
and Flora. — First View of the Rio Negro. — Sauce Blanco. — The Guardia. —
San Xaviel. — Approach to Patagones. — Seiior Murga. — Welsh Hospitality.
Among Friends at Last . 243
CHAPTER IX.
THE RIO NEGRO SETTLEMENTS.
Patagones, or Carmen Old Town. — The Fort and Buildings. — The Southern
Town. — The English IMission. — Elements of the Population. — The Negroes.
— The Convicts. — Lawless State of Society. — The Cemetery. — Early His-
11 CONTENTS.
PAGE
toiy of the Colony. — A Successful Stratagem. — Villarino's Ascent of the
River. — Expedition of Rosas. — The Island of Cboelechel. — La Guardia
Chica. — Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid. — Ancient Indian Graves. — Flint
Weapons. — The Shepherd and Pumas. — Estancia San Andre. — The Indians
and the Colonists. — Calficura's Raid. — Indian Method of Attack. — The Tame
Indians. — View of the Valley. — Trade of Patagones. — Eertility of the Soil.
— Rio Negro Wine. — The Sportsman. — Advice to Emigrants. — Interview
with Col. Murga. — The Government Grants to Chiefs. — Casimiro again. —
The Tehuelches in Town. — Farewell. — The Welsh Utopia. — Social Life at
Patagones. — The Steamer at Last. — Aground. — The Pilot. — Pat Sweeny. —
Adieu to Patagonia ........... 288
APPENDIX.
A. — A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language as spoken by the
Northern Tehuelches 319
B. — Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the Patagonians . 323
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.
WAiil KILLING A PUMA Frontispiece
MAP OP PATAGONIA at the end
STATION ON PABON ISLAND, SANTA CRUZ . . . to face p. 37
HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO . p. 64
START FROM THE CAMP AT m6wAISH, OR WINDOW HILL . , 75
CEREMONY OF WELCOME (tEHUELCHES AND ARAUCANIANS) . .110
A WILD BULL IN THE CORDILLERA . . . , . .151
SKETCH MAP FROM RIO SBNGEL TO TECKEL . . . . .156
TEHUELCHE ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS 164
THE PRETTY HOUSE AND DANCE . . . . . . .175
CROSSING THE RIO LIMAY . . . . . . . . 223
INTEODUCTION.
Three hundred and fifty years ago the great navigator
Magellan anchored in a port on the eastern coast of an un-
known shore, part of the seaboard of the vast continent of
South America, to which he gave the name of St. Julian.
Starting from this point, the pilot Serrano explored the
coast to the southward, and discovered a river, which he
named Santa Cruz. His ship was wrecked near the mouth,
and left her timbers on the rocks, the first of the long list of
vessels lost on that ironbound coast which, from the mouth of
the Rio Negro to the Straits, oflPers but one or two safe har-
bours, while submerged reefs, fierce gales, strong tides, cur-
rents, and overfalls combine to render it nearly the most
perilous known to navigators.
Magellan remained at Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz
from April till October of 1520, when he sailed southward,
and discovered the Straits which bear his name. Two
months after his arrival at Port St. Julian a man of gigantic
stature appeared on the beach, ' larger and taller than the
stoutest man of Castile.' Eighteen natives afterwards
arrived, dressed in cloaks of skins and shoes of guanaco
hide, which made huge footmarks, whence they were called
Patagones, or ' large feet,' by the Spaniards ; and thus
originated in a nickname the name of the country, Pata-
gonia. These men used bows and an-ows, and had with
them four young guanacoes, with which they decoyed the
wild ones within shot. Two young men were treacherously
XVI INTRODUCTION.
seized and carried ofP, howling and calling on their god
Setebos. The natives naturally resented this return for their
ready friendliness, and, attacking a party sent after them,
killed one Spaniard with their arrows. Eno\igh, however,
was seen of them to furnish Pigafetta with some details.
' Their tents were light movable frames, covered with skins ;
their faces were painted ; they were very swift of foot, had
tools of sharp-edged flints, and ate their meat nearly raw.'
That the first knowledge of Patagonia was diffused in
England by Pigafetta's narrative is suggested by Caliban's
lines in the ' Tempest : ' ' he could command my dam's god
Setebos ; ' but it was not till 1578 that the newly-discovered
country was visited by Englishmen.
Sir Francis Drake in that year anchored in Seal Bay —
probably a little to the south of Port Desire — and saw several
Indians. His chaplain narrates their method of stalking the
ostriches : ' They have a plume of ostrich feathers on a long
staff, large enough to hide a man behind, and with this they
stalk the ostriches.' He further says : ' They would have
none of our company until such time as they were warranted
by their God " Settaboth." They never cut their hair, which
they make a store-house for all the things they carry
about — a quiver for arrows, a sheath for knives, a case for
toothpicks, a box for fire sticks, and what not ; they are fond
of dancing with rattles round their waists ; they have clean,
cornel}^, and strong bodies, are swift of foot, very active, a
goodly and lively people. Magellan was not altogether
wrong in naming them giants, yet they are not taller than
some Englishmen.' Drake next visited Port St. Julian ; and,
curiously enough, as Magellan had in this place put to death
two and niarooned a third of his captains Avho mutinied,
so this harbour was the scene of the execution of Mr. Doughty,
who chose rather to be beheaded than to be put on shore.
The ensuing jesiv Sarmiento was despatched from Callao to
examine the Straits in search of the daring Englishman.
S.\EMIENTO"S COLONY. xvii
He saw natives wlio chased tlieir game on horseback, and
brought it down with bolas. But fifty years had elapsed
since horses had been imported by the Spaniards of the
Eio de la Plata, and already the Indians in the far south
had become horsemen, and would seem to have exchanged
their bows and arrows for the bolas.
In 1581 Sarmiento was sent from Spain with 2,500 men
in twenty-three ships, to found new colonies in the Straits,
and established a settlement, leaving 400 men and thirty
women, furnished with eight months' provisions. On his
way home his ship was captured by the EngHsh, and the
unhappy colonists were altogether forgotten and neglected
by their Government.
Five years after, Thomas Cavendish anchored in a bay to
the south of St. Julian, called by him Port Desire, which
perpetuates the name of his little craft of 120 tonS. Here
the natives attacked his men with bows sind arrows. Visiting
the Straits, he arriY:~i at the settlement, and found only
twelve men and three women surviving, the rest having
perished of slow starvation and disease ; and the name of
the place. Port Famine, conferred by him, still recalls the
miserable fate of these ill-fated colonists.
On his next voyage, in 1591, Cavendish died; but John
Davis twice visited Port Desire, and explored the river for
twenty miles. During his stay some 1,000 natives visited
the strangers, and Knyvet describes them as being fifteen or
sixteen span high.
Passing over the visits of Van Noort and Schouten, in the
reign of Charles the Second Sir John Narborough took
possession of the country near Port Desire in the name of the
King. But few natives were seen, and the mate, Mr. Wood,
boastingly declared that he himself was taller than any of
them.
In the eighteenth century Byron and Wallis successively
visited the shores of Patagonia, and made friends with the
a
xviii INTKODUCTION.
natives, whose height was found to be from 5 feet 10 inches
to 6 feet, while some were nearly 7 feet high.
In 1774 the Jesuit Father Falkner published his work on
Patagonia, containing all the information procured by him-
self and the other Jesuit missionaries who had attempted to
obtain a footing on the western and northern boundaries.
His account of the Tehuelches, or Tsoneca Indians, was
evidently derived fi-om personal communication with them,
although his knowledge of the topography of their country
seems to have been procured from the reports of others. By
this work, which produced a great sensation, the jealous
fears of the Spanish Government were aroused, and they
hastened to despatch an expedition to fonn settlements on
the coast of Patagonia.
Of the brothers Viedma, who were sent in command,
Francisco founded Carmen at the mouth of the Rio Negro,
and Antonio, after first fixing on Port Desire, determined
finally on Port St. Julian as the site '^f another colony. He
thence undertook the first exploration of the interior in
search of timber for building, in the course of which he
reached the great lake at the foot of the Cordillera, from
which flowed the Eio Santa Cruz. Both on the coast and in
the interior he received much friendly aid from the Indians,
of Avhom he formed a most favourable opinion.
Under his brother's auspices the Pio Negro was ascended
as far as the mountains by Yillarino, to whose expedition
reference will be made in the proper place.
No further knowledge was gained of the interior of Pata-
gonia until the survey of the Beagle, so ably performed and
so admirably described by Fitzroy and Darwin ; during which
the ascent of the Santa Cruz river for 200 miles enabled the
latter to observe the remarkable formations which he has so
aptly described in his work on the Geology of South America.
l" This brief but perhaps tedious account has been given to
I show that although the coasts of Patagonia had been ex-
INTERIOR OF PATAGONIA UNKNOWN. xix
plored and surveyed, yet the interior of the country, though
pierced by the expeditions of Yiedma and Fitzroy, remained
up to a late date still almost unknown. Its inhabitants, the
Tehuelches, had been often communicated with, their stature
noted, and their friendly disposition commended; but their
real manners of life as they wandered through the country,
and their relations with, or difference from, the Araucanian
and Pampa Indians, had remained almost as much a mystery
as they were in the last century.
During the last thirty years the Governments of Chili an^"^
of Buenos Ayres have shown themselves inclined to claim
the possession of the coast, the former trying to advance
from the Straits, and the latter from Patagones ; and the
natives have acknowledged the influence of either Govern-
ment as they happened to be in the northern or southern
parts respectively. Our missionaries also have not left the
Patagonians without some efforts to instruct and evangelise
them; and although these efforts have been necessarily
limited to the coast, yet the fruits of Mr. Schmid's sojourn
with the Tehuelches remain both in their friendly feelings
and in the lasting record of the vocabulary of the Tsoneca
language published by him. And the intercourse of these
Indians with Argentines and Chilians, and more especially
with English officers, sealers, and missionaries successively, all
of whom have testified favourably to their character, has tended
to make them more open to access, and to give them a know-
ledge of foreigners ; so that in this respect I can feel that to
all those who have been mentioned as having thus preceded
me, this brief record is due from a traveller who has ex-
perienced the friendly feelings of the natives towards
strangers, and especially Englishmen.
While engaged in preparing the ensuing pages for the
press, I have had an opportunity of perusing the work of
M. Guinnard, first published in French, and recently given
to the English public in a spirited translation, entitled
XX INTKODUCTION.
' Three Years' Slavery among the Patagonians.' The name
necessarily attracted me, but to my great surprise careful
perusal led to the distinct conviction that the author's per-
sonal experiences were altogether confined to the Pampas
Indians north of the Rio Negro. From his own statements
and omissions it is quite evident that he was not carried by
any of his successive masters across this river, which he
clearly and accurately defines to be (p. 40) the northern
boundary of Patagonia. The name of Patagonians is, there-
fore, a complete misnomer; and the curious account (pp. 72-3)
of the ' Tcheouelches,' or Foot Nomads, clothed in seal skins
and accustomed to live on fish, and literally destitute of
horsfes, is applicable to no tribe whatever east of the Cor-
dillera, the Fuegians being the onl}-^ race presenting any
of the characteristic habits attributed to this so-called Pata-
gonian tribe.
I hope I may not be supposed to be desirous of impeaching
the accuracy of M. Guinnard's account of the hardships
endured in his captivity, or of the customs of the Indians
into whose hands he fell, much of which I can corroborate ;
but it is to be regretted that he was induced, probably by
others, to describe under the name of Patagonians, the
Pampas Indians, who, by country, race, language, and cha-
racter, are marked as being altogether distinct from the
Tehuelches of Patasronia.
AT HOME
WITH
THE PATAGONIANS.
CHAPTER I.
FEOM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.
Journey Planned. — Preparations. — Passage from Stanley. — The Straits.
— First Footsteps in Patagonia. — The Narrows. — Punta Arenas. —
Comniandante Viel. — The Colony. — The Town.— Chilotes and Con-
victs.— Resources. — Visit to the Coal Bed. — Lieut. Gallegos. — The
Start. — Rio Ghaunco. — The Patagonian Pampas. — Our Party. — Cabe-
cera del Mar. — Oazy Harbour. — A useless Chase. — A Fireless Night. —
Volcanic Hills. — Pampa Yarns. — Rio Gallegos. — First Indians. — Sam
Slick. — Rio Cuheyli. — Meeting with Tehuelches. — Caravan of Women.
— ' Anglish ' Politeness. — Desert, — Santa Cruz at last.
In April 1869 chance took me to our remote colonj of tlie
Falkland Islands, with the purpose of taking thence a
passage to Buenos Ajres to arrange some business matters.
During mj stay in the settlement, the coast of Patagonia,
in the survey of which H.M.S. Nassau was then engaged,
formed a frequent topic of conversation. I had formerly,
when stationed on the south-east coast of America, read
with delight Mr. Darwin's work on South America, as well
as Fitzroy's admirable Narrative of the Voyage of the Beagle>
and had ever since entertained a strong desire to penetrate
if possible the little-known interior of the coimtry. Now,
at length, a favourable opportunity seemed to have arrived
for carrying out the cherished scheme of traversing the
B
2 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. I.
country from Punta Arena to the Rio Negro, Yaldivia, or
even to Buenos Ayi-es. The accounts given me of the
Tehuelche character and of the glorious excitement of the
chase after the guanaco, graphically described by a seaman,
Sam Bonner, who had been much on the coast and had
resided at the Santa Cruz station, made me more than ever
anxious to prosecute this plan ; and, having a tolerable
acquaintance with Sjpanish, which langviage many of the
Indians know well, it seemed to me possible to safely traverse
the country in company with some one or other of their
wandering parties. Accordingly T bestirred myself to obtain
information as to the best way of getting such an introduc-
tion to the Indians as would probably secure their consent ; to
which end most material assistance was afforded by Mr. Dean,
of Stanley, who kindly provided me with letters of introduc-
tion to Captain Luiz Piedra Buena, an intelligent Argentine
well known in Stanley, the owner of a schooner, in which he
worked the seal fisheries on the coast, and also of a trading
station at the Middle Island, on the Santa Cruz river.
Mr. Dean was of opinion that I should be almost certain to
meet with Don Luiz in the Straits of Magellan, and that he
would willingly exert his influence with the Indians to
enable me to carry out my plan of travel. I was further-
more provided with letters of credit to the firm of Messrs.
Aguirre & Murga, at Patagones, or, as it is most commonly
called at Stanley, the Rio Negro.
Thus armed with credentials, and equipped with a guanaco
ekin mantle, lazo and bolas, I availed myself of the offer of a
passage to the Straits made by an old friend who was bound
to the westward coast.
In the first week of April we sailed from Stanley, and,
after a boisterous passage of eleven days, anchored in Posses-
sion Bay, just within the entrance of the Straits, to wait for
the turn of the tide, as the extreme velocity with which the
tides ebb and flow through these channels renders it im-
possible for any vessel not possessed of great steam power
to proceed except the tide, is favourable. Our first view
of the Straits did not impress me favourably. On either
Ch. I.] riRST FOOTSTEPS IN PATAGONIA. S
hand tlie shores looked bleak and barren, though far away
to the south and west the mountains of Tierra del Fuego
could be distinctly seen. As we anchored early in the after-
noon, a descent on the coast of Patagonia was proposed,
and a party speedily volunteered — well provided with guns
and other arms, for the purposes of sport and self-defence
in case of necessity — and were soon in the boat. As the
tide was out, the shoal water did not permit us to reach the
shore, so we had to wade some two or three hundred yards
over beds of sharp-edged mussels, and, after a climb up the
steep cliff, found ourselves on the verge of a barren plain
which seemed perfectly destitute of life.
After a tramp of some distance we came to the edge of a
gully running down to the coast, where finding the torn car-
case of a guanaco, we stopped to examine what was to most
of us an unknown animal; and our speculations as to the
curious hybrid form of the odd-looking * camel-sheep' were
put an end' to by the discovery close by of the fresh foot-
prints of a puma. These were eagerly tracked, in the hopes
of a little entertainment : but after some tedious searchingr
we abandoned the pursuit, and again resuming our excur-
sion, tramped along through high, coarse grass, and sparsely
scattered thorny bushes ; some of the sportsmen varying
the monotony by an occasional shot at a snipe. The day
was very genial, the warmth of the bright sunshine was
tempered by a wind just cool enough to make a walk
pleasant, and the Patagonian climate was pronounced by all
hands to be agreeable. Whilst we were beating a rough
bit of ground, to our utter amazement and delight our
friend the puma jumped out of a bush ; but the first surprise
was so great, that the opportunity of giving him a long shot
was lost. Away we all started in chase, hoping to be able
to keep him in sight from a small adjacent eminence ; and
after a good breather two of the party succeeded in viewing
him to somewhere near the edge of the cliffs, mainly guided
by a retriever dog, which seemed as anxious as anybody to
see what the catamount hide was made of. On arriving at
the cliff, a seaman observed his tracks on the soft clay of the
B 2
4 AT HO:NrE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
shelving brow, and soon proclaimed his discovery of the
puma in a hole or small cave just below, by the exclamation
of ' There he is ! ' at the same time thrusting the stick he
had been beating with nearly into the mouth of the ' lion,'
which had set our dog, and appeared about to spring on him.
Two shots were fired in quick succession, but apparently
without effect, as he made good his retreat, affording us a
fine view as he went ofl", springing in great bounds, along
the beach. Pursuit was of course organised, but night being
near failed to afford us an opportunity of a closer study of
this specimen of the feline race ; and we accordingly started
again for the ship, after firing a shot or two into the numer-
ous flocks of oyster-catchers and shags which were domiciled
on the rocks and about the cliffs. The number of these and
other sea-birds was incalculable ; the numerous beds of
mussels furnishing them Avith constant food.
Next morning we were under weigh with the flood-tide,
and rapidly ran through the narrows at a speed of eighteen
miles an hour. The scenery on the northern side of the
Straits offered little variety until we sighted the Barrancas
of San Gregorio, a range of somewhat picturesque hills,
rising near the north shore of the bay of the same name, and
running along for some miles in an easterly direction. On
the southern or Fuegian side of the Straits the land was low
for some distance from the coast, and resembled the northern
shore, but high mountains were visible in the background.
After passing the second narrows, an hour or two's run with
the flood-tide and a good head of steam brought us opposite
to the * Island of San Isabel,' or Elizabeth Island ; after
passing which the snow-clad peaks of Mount Sarmiento, in
the southern part of Tierra del Fuego, came into sight,
appearing to rise out of the water, ninety miles distant, if
not more. Steaming along the coast through numerous beds
of the characteristic kelp seaweed, which in the most forcible
way attracted our attention, by fouling the screw, and hold-
ing the ship as if anchored for about an hour, we passed Cape
Negro, and opened completely different scenery. Instead of
undulating plains, hills thickly wooded were seen 3 at the
Cii. I.] PUNTA ARENA. 5
foot of one of wliich, on a low j)iece of flat ground, numerous
horsemen, dressed in gay-coloured ponchos, were visible,
careering about.
It was the afternoon of Sunday, which in all Spanish South
American countries is a gala day, more or less appropriated
to horse-racing. However, the sight of a steamer appeared
to cause a diversion, and, in fact, a general race to the settle-
ment ensued, all being apparently anxious for anything new
or strange. The anchor was soon dropped, near an American
schooner lying off the Sandy Point, from which the Chilian
settlement of Punta Arenas derives its name.
There was no sign of the Nassau, then engaged in the
survey of the Straits, which we had hoped to find in this
anchorage ; but from the Chilian officer, who speedily boarded
us, we learned that she had sailed to the westward a day or
two before our arrival, and was expected to retui'n imme-
diately. The results of the careful observations made by
Mr. Cunningham, of the scenery and natural history of the
Straits, have appeared while these pages were in preparation
for the press ; and it affords me pleasure to refer such as
desire more scientific accounts of the botany and zoology, at
least of Southern Patagonia, than it was in my power to
obtain, to his work.
My own object in visiting Punta Arenas was to proceed
thence to Santa Cruz with the Indians, or in whatever way
might prove feasible ; but, in truth, it was by no means clear
to my mind how it was to be accomplished ; it was, therefore,
with great relief that I learned from the Chilian lieutenant
that a small expedition was about to be despatched by the
governor to Santa Cruz in pursuit of some runaways from
among the deserters who were serving their term of punish-
ment in the colony. He suggested that the Commandante
would, doubtless, give permission to accompany this party ;
and, without delay, I accompanied him on shore, and was
introduced to Commandante Seuor Viel.
!N"othing could exceed the kindness and courtesy with
which the Commandante entered into my plans ; he at once
not only gave me permission to accompany the party, but.
6 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
unasked, offered me the use of a horse, and told me not to
trouble myself about the commissariat for the road. It was
possible, however, that the deserters might be overtaken in
the Pampas, in which case the party would return without
proceeding as far as Santa Cruz; he therefore advised me
to secure the services of some one acquainted with the route,
who could act as guide in the event of our having to proceed
without the rest of our companions.
I was afterwards introduced to Senora Yiel, a fair Limena
possessing all the proverbial charms of the ladies of Lima,
and who bemoaned bitterly the isolation and ennui of life at
Punta Arenas ; she had literally no equals of her own sex,
and scarcely any of the other, to speak to. Seiior Viel had
formerly commanded a Chilian ironclad, instead of which he
had accepted the government of this distant colony ; his
zeal and energy in discharging the duties of his office were
unceasing, and his naval habits asserted themselves in the
strictness of discipline maintained, which was absolutely
necessary to keep in order the motley population. But as a
residence, viewed from a social point of view, Punta Arenas
must have been unimaginably dull. The Commandante
kindly pressed me to make his house my home, promising
quarters for the night — which his own limited accommoda-
tion could not supply — in an adjacent house. So after two
days, agreeably spent in the interchange of courtesies and
visits, I bade adieu to my shipmates, who were to sail at
daylight for the Western Straits, and removed myself and
traps to a wooden house close to the Cuartel, the quarters of
Don Centeno, the engineer in charge of the Government
works. The next morning, accompanied by Captain Cushing,
of the schooner Rippling "Wave, I set out to procure some
few necessary supplies, and make inquiries for a guide. We
bent our steps to the store of a man named Guillermo, and
after purchasing tobacco and other necessaries, the talk
turned on gold, of which Don Guillermo showed us some
specimens, obtained from the banks of a neighbouring stream.
One of the crew of the Eippling Wave grew greatly ex-
cited and exclaimed, * Ah, that's the stuff we used to grub up
Ch. I ] THE COLONY. 7
in a creek in Californy ; I guess if the old boat lays her bones
on these here shores, I'll stop and turn to digging ao-ain.'
Hanging up in the store were some Indian bolas and a belt
made of beads, studded with silver bosses, which the owner
informed me was a woman's girdle, and, with the bolas,
had been left in pawn by the Indians. They had not,
however, visited the colony, at least for trading purposes, for
several months, as they had taken umbrage about a dispute
between a Chilian and an Indian, in which they considered
their comrade to have been treated with injustice. The party
described by Mr. Cunningham evidently arrived with doubt-
ful intentions, and the tact displayed by Seuor Viel removed
their resentment. This information explained what had
previously mystified me, viz., that nothing was to be seen or
heard of the Indians with whom I had hoped to make
acquaintance. My good fortune in arriving on the eve of the
departure of the expedition, and the Comm andante's courtesy,
were now even more keenly appreciated by me, as otherwise
I should have been simply stranded in Punta Arenas. The
guide difficulty was not long of solution, although, from the
natural dislike of most of the unofficial population to take
part in the recapture of runaways, it had seemed rather per-
plexing. After we had quitted the store, we were accosted
by a man named J'aria, who came to offer his services. A
short examination of his knowledge and recommendations
proving satisfactory, he was engaged on terms which certainly
were far from exorbitant, and he deserves to have it recorded
that he fully earned his pay. My equipments and prepara-
tions for the journey were now made complete by the
thoughtful good nature of Captain Cushing, with whom I
proceeded on board his vessel, where he provided from his
stores, and forced on my acceptance, several most useful
articles ; and it is pleasant to be able to publish my sense of
the kindness received from one of our American cousins, who
are always ready to sympathise with and befriend a Britisher,
at least according to my experience.
A stroll of inspection round the settlement was extended
to the saw-mill, not far distant, worked by water-power;
8 AT HOilE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
wliere, under the direction of Mr. Wells, an American, tlio
trees when cut down are converted into boards to build the
houses that take the place of the forest. Proceeding thence
to the half- cleared outskirts, we found the Comraandante
supervising numerous labourers, principally of the convict
class, who were busily engaged in felling trees, clearing
stumps, and otherwise preparing the way for the future
development of the settlement.
To anyone unaccustomed to frontier towns, the coup-d'oeil
of the town presented an irregular and random growth of
wooden houses ; but the plan which was indicated in outline
was laid out after the usual Spanish American fashion, as
originally prescribed by the Council of the Indies. A
main street ran near and parallel to the beach, crossing a
large vacant square — the Plaza, out of which, and at
regular intervals from the main etreet, ran other embryo
streets intersecting at right angles, so that the houses,
whenever they should be built, would form blocks or ' cua-
dros.* In the Plaza were the church and a large unfinished
school-house. Chilian ideas as to the public duty of
education are advanced, and the schoolmaster is a state
functionary, combining at this time at Punta Arenas the
duties of secretary to the Governor with those proper to his
office. The excellent sketch of Staff-Commander Bed well
(Cunningham, ' Straits of Magellan,' p. 70) shows the
Governor's house nearly at the end of the main street, and
beyond it was the Cuartel, a palisadoed in closure, containing
the barracks, the gaol or lock-up, and the guard-house,
irreverently termed by the officers of the Nassau •' The Punch
and Judy House,' and shown in the same sketch.
From this a constant look-out is maintained, and a light
displayed at night. The transverse streets, running up
almost to the uncleared forest, were only indicated by
scattered houses, and in the line of the main street two or
three detached dwellings a mile distant were only separated
from the trees by patches of potato ground.
The first penal colony planted in the Straits by the
•Chilian Government was established in 1843, at Port Famine,
Ch. I.] CfllLOTES AND CONVICTS. 9
tlie ominous name of wliicli recalls the miserable fate of tlie
colonists left there by Sarmiento in 1581. The superior
anchorage was the inducement to select the same place for
the modern colony, but the same evil destiny seemed to cling
to it. After struggling on for some years, during which the
inhabitants were frequently reduced to great distress by the
failure of supplies of food from Chili, it was sacked and
destroyed by the convicts, who mutinied and killed the
Governor and Padre. They afterwards seized a vessel in
which they attempted to escape, but were pursued by a man-
of-war, and met with deserved punishment.
The colony was subsequently removed to its present posi-
tion, and in addition to the involuntary immigrants, chiefly
deserters from the army, settlers were tempted by liberal
grants of land, and a large number of Chilotes or natives of
Chiloe were introduced. These men, who are of mixed
Spanish and Indian blood, are a hardy, sturdy race, ac-
customed to the use of the axe in their own thickly- wooded
country, whence they exj)ort quantities of timber. They are
very Paddies in their diet, living almost altogether on
potatoes, which grow freely in Chiloe, but in Punta Arenas
do not attain large size. Besides land, the Chilotes receive
wages from the Government for their labour, and are the
most industrious portion of the population : the men are hard
woi'king, but also hard drinking, and the women are said to
be very lax in their notions of fidelity. Of the convicts, some
were allowed, for good behaviour, to live in their own houses,
subject to certain restrictions ; but many of them were utterly
reckless, and needed to be kept under the strictest surveil-
lance, and locked up in the Cuartel every night. Notwith-
standing all precautions, escapes are continually contrived,
and the runaways face the difficulties of the Pampas, some-
times succeeding in joining the Patagonians, but as often
losing their way, and perishing of starvation, or becoming a
prey to the pumas. Thus, ten or a dozen had succeeded in
escaping just before my visit, necessitating the despatch of the
expedition in chase of them. The garrison consisted of some
fifty or sixty regular soldiers, besides irregular employes, who
10 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
liunt wild cattle or deserters, as occasion requires. The
number of troops is quite insufficient to defend the place
against an attack of the Indians, but the southern Tehuel-
ches are not naturally inclined to raids, and if well and fairly
treated are more willing to avail themselves of the trading
facilities afforded by the half-dozen stores, the existence of
which could only, in my mind, be accounted for by the hopes
of Indian barter, for they were far in excess of the wants of
the colony. Still the permanent population was certainly a
thirsty one, and seemed to do its best to encourage trade, at
least in grog : drunkenness in the streets is, however, an
offence punishable by imprisonment, and at the time of my
visit the blacksmith was in durance vile, whence the Irish
Doctor had only just been released for this venial offence.
There appeared to be little cultivation, with the exception
of potatoes. The climate does not permit wheat or barley to
ripen, though, perhaps, oats or rye might succeed. The tame
cattle seemed to me stunted and miserable, but in the forests
there are others of a wild breed, which are said to be large and
of excellent quality ; these, as well as the red deer, afford,
during some portion of the year, occupation to a few hunters,
who obtain high prices for their meat, but the supply is too
scanty and iiTegular to prevent fresh meat from being a rare
luxury. The resources and prospects of the colony naturally
formed the subject of conversation at Sefior Yiel's, and Don
Centeno, who was in charge of the survey of the newly-
discovered coal bed in the vicinity, invited me to join him
the next day in a visit of inspection.
Next morning we accordingly set out, and crossing a small
stream, shortly an-ived at the commencement of the forest,
through which a straight road was in course of formation.
Numerous groups of Chilotes were employed on all sides,
some levelling the way abeady cleared, others at work felling
trees, others applying fire instead of the axe. The timber
consists chiefly of Chilian beech (Fagus antarctica) and
Winter's bark, described by Mr. Cunningham, the former of
which splits readily and is available for most purposes.
After Don Centeno had completed some minor details of
Ch. I.J VISIT TO THE COAL BED. 11
surveying, we struck into the dense forest, and followed a
winding path until we arrived at the bed of the stream,
which debouches at the colony. This we followed up for
some time, and eventually arrived at a ravine, the sides of
which were as regular as if navvies had been employed to
form a cutting, in which, at a point sixty yards above our
heads, the seam of coal was visible. Here we dismounted
and scrambled up a slippery path to a spot where a shaft, or
rather burrow, had been driven into the bed, to the depth of
perhaps fifty or sixty feet, made apparently for the purpose
of examining the quality, regularity, &c., of the seam. The
coal did not appear to me of a very good quality ; but I
have since heard that it gave exceedingly favourable results.
My companion also pointed out to me a place in the opposite
bank where some men had been washing for gold, the speci-
mens of which I had seen in the town ; and their labours
were said to have been attended with good returns. As the
day was advancing and rather chilly, a fire was kindled ; and
after a warm thereat, mounting our horses, we returned
homewards down the ravine. On emerging from the forest,
we observed a large steamer just on the point of anchoring ;
so we hurried on to obtain news and despatch our letters if
it should prove the Magalhaens — one of the line of packets
from Liverpool to Valparaiso. On the beach we found the
Comraandante and Mrs. Viel, the latter having visited the
vessel and obtained some English newspapers. After dinner,
accepting the Governor's offer of his boat, I proceeded on
board, and found her to be a magnificent steamer of great
power and good accommodation. The establishment of this
line of steamers will doubtless have a most beneficial effect
on the prosperity of Punta Arenas ; as, though agriculture
and Indian trade are not likely to reward industrious or
sjDeculative immigrants, the discovery of the coal-bed is of the
most obvious importance as affecting the future of this colony.
It will now be possible to maintain powerful steam-tugs to
tow sailing-vessels through the Straits, and thus avoid the
passage round Cape Horn ; whereas up to the present time
the navigation of the Straits has been almost closed to
12 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
sailing-sliips ; while, owing to tlie great steam-power required,
even steamers, wlietlier war or merchant ships, are frequently-
obliged to buy wood at Sandy Point ; and then, owing to the
vast quantity used to keep steam, not unfrequently are
obliged to stop again before entering the Pacific to renew
their supply wherever they could cut it. Now this will all
be changed, and a steam-launch will probably be kept to tow
the lighters to and fro, and thus materially facilitate coaling.
As population and colonisation increase, encouraged by the
accommodation afforded by the Pacific steamers — which at
this present date run every month, bringing the Straits of
Magellan almost within hail — the interior of the country may
become opened up, in which case, probably, other sources of
mineral wealth will be discovered and made productive.
Our departure having been definitely fixed for the morrow,
I proceeded to review and arrange my equipments for the
journey, a list of which may gratify intending explorers of
Patagonia. Two saddle-bags contained my kit and neces-
saries, consisting of a couple of shirts and a jersey or two, a
few silk handkerchiefs, and soap, lucifer matches, writing
materials, fishing lines and hooks, quinine and caustic, and a
small bottle of strychnine. The armoury comprised a rifle
in case complete, and two double-barrelled breech-loading
j)istols, hunting-knives, a small ammunition-case of un-
filled cartridges, and a supply of powder. The only instru-
ment ventured on was a small compass. My personal equip-
ment was a shooting suit of tweed and a Scotch cap, and a
most excellent pair of boots made by Thomas, to which for
comfort were superadded a guanaco skin mantle, two ponchos,
and a waterproof sheet. In the evening Senor Viel intro-
duced me to my future travelling companion. Lieutenant
Gallegos, who was to command our party. He was a short,
thick-set man, with a dark, almost Indian complexion, and
looked all over what the Commandante declared him to be,
* a man for hard work.' In his native province of Arauco he
had been for many years employed in the frontier wars with
the Indians, and could handle the lazo or the lance with
wonderful dexterity. He spoke with great cordiality of the
Ch. I.] THE START. 13
officers of the Nassau, and seemed well inclined to the com-
pany of one of the same service ; indeed, I am strongly
inclined to believe that he is introduced into the foreground
of Commander Bedwell's sketch — at all events, if any
reader wishes to know his appearance, the occupant of the
fallen tree presents a strong resemblance to the leader of
our party. Our arrangements and prospects were fully dis-
cussed ; and after bidding farewell to Captain Gushing, who
was to sail the next day, and to my niost kind and courteous
host and hostess, we parted, agreeing to meet at daylight
ready for the road.
At an early hour of the morning of the 19th of April I
was awoke by J'aria, and with him and my small belongings
proceeded to the Corral, where the horses were being caught
and loaded. Here we were joined by Gallegos, and when
everything was nearly ready for the start adjourned to his
house close by for a cup of coffee. The Seiiora seemed to
regard me with great commiseration, and recounted various
dismal tales of the dreadful cold winds, hardships, Indians,
and other disagreeables to be encountered ; her consolations
were cut short by the entrance of J'aria with the news that all
was ready. After a parting glass of something stronger
than water, we got into our saddles, and the cavalcade, con-
sisting of Gallegos, myself, one regular soldier, three irregu-
lars or employes of the Government, and J'aria, with twenty-
one horses, left the town. As we passed the cuartel, the guard
turned out in the balcony and presented arms, and the bugler
executed a musical salute. It was a fine frosty morning, and
we rode on in high spirits, accompanied by two or three
horsemen, who were going to spend their Sunday festa in
duck shooting, and had made an early start to escort us a
little way. Scarcely had we crossed the stream when one of
the baggage horses kicked his load off; this was soon re-
placed; but when the bustle was over and the cavalcade
reformed, J'aria and one of the employes, to whom I had con-
fidingly entrusted a bottle of rum, were missing, and they did
not turn up again for some time, and the bottle never again.
We rode along the coast until we reached the outpost called
14 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. I.
Tres Puentes, where a narrow pass, between the forest on one
hand and the sea on the other, is barred by a gate house
tenanted by two men, posted there to prevent desertion;
they turned out, and we lingered for a farewell chat, during
which one of the sportsmen stalked and shot some ducks ; at
the report of his gun the regular soldier's horse, not being
used to stand fire, shied and threw him, capsizing his saddle-
bags, and strewing the beach with tortillas (cakes) and coffee,
with which his no doubt provident and thoughtful ' she '
had stored them. Gallegos sat in his saddle and laughed
at the scene ; but as the others could not catch the horse, he
gave us a proof of his dexterity with the lazo. After this
little diversion we pursued our course along the beach as
far as Cape Negro, where the forests terminated, and our
accompanying friends bade us adieu after taking a parting
glass all round ; J'aria and the other absentee overtaking us
in time for this part of the performance.
Our horses' heads were then turned from the coast in a
north north-west direction, and after half-an-hour's ride a
halt was called for breakfast under the lee of a sheltering
hill. To the southward we viewed the counter slope of the
wooded hills, below which on the other side lay Punta Arenas.
A thick growth of shrubs covered the ground, but beautiful
glades of luxuriant pasture were visible ; one of which opened
just to the south of our camping place, and others appeared
east and west like oases of green. Their appearance caused
me to remark that as a settler I should choose this location
for my hut. Gallegos, however, replied that the pastures
could not be used for the cattle of the settlement during the
summer, as neither the Indians nor their own men could be
trusted ; the latter would desert, and the former would steal
the beasts. After a pipe we remounted, and having crossed
the hill we descended to the valley of a small but deep stream,
called the Rio Chaunco, having forded which we ascended the
opposite border slope, and entered on the Pampa, which
name is universally used in Patagonia to designate the high
undulating plains or plateaux, frequently intersected by
'valleys and ravines, or rising into successive or isolated hills.
Ch. I.] THE PATAGOKIAN PAMPAS. 15
which generally occupy the crest of the country. The
Indians, indeed, who know a little Castilian, apply the word
Pampa indiscriminately to any tract of country hunted over
by them. After a successful day's sport, and the content-
ment consequent on a hearty meal, they will ask with great
satisfaction, ' Muy buena Pampa ? No ? ' really meaning
' Is not the wild life the best ?' But English readers, who
have derived their idea of a Pampa from Head's delightful
work, or from other experiences of the unlimited grassy or
thistle covered plains which roll away for miles in the Argen-
tine States, and offer no obstruction to the stretching gallop
of the untiring gaacho, must not transfer that pleasing
picture to Patagonia. The Pampas, properly so called, of «^
Patagonia, occasionally indeed present a tolerably even and
uniform succession of rolling plains covered with coarse grass,
but more frequently the surface, even when unbroken by
hills and suddenly yawning ravines, is sterile, with a sparse
vegetation, consisting of stunted bushes and round thistle
clumf>s ; and even these are often wanting, and nothing
clothes the bare patches of clay or gravel ; elsewhere it is
strewn with huge round boulders, and again rugged with
confused heaps or ridges of bare sharp-edged rocks, many
of them of volcanic origin : this more particularly apply-
ing to the northern part of the countiy. The only uni-
formity of appearance is afforded in the winter, when the
white sheet of snow covers rocks, grass, and shingle; but
one accompaniment is the same, whatever be the nature of
the soil or surface ; and the word Pampa invariably recalls
to one's shuddering memory the cutting blasts which sweep
almost without intermission from various points, but chiefly
from the west, over the high country, till, rea ching the heated
atmosphere of Buenos Ayres, the cold Patagonian wind
becomes the Pampero, the sudden and terrific blasts of
Avhich cause so man}^ disasters among the shipping. The
descent from these Pampas to the valleys, or more sheltered
and fertile level ground bordering the banks of the streams
and rivers, is commonly termed ' Barranca,' or bank, from
the scarped slopes, varying in depth from fifty to two or
16 AT HOilE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
three feet, and in angle from an easy to an almost perpen-
dicular descent, but often fissured by ravines or gullies,
affording roads, down all of which, however, the native
riders gallop with equal recklessness.
The Pampa we were now traversing presented an expanse
of undulating or rolling plains covered with a uniform growth
of coarse grass interspersed with barberry bushes, and
occasional lagoons in the hollows. No living creatures
except ourselves appeared on the waste. To the westward
the snow-clad peaks of the mountains bordering the Sarmi-
ento Straits greeted us with an icy blast which made my
thoughts longingly revert to the cosy cabin and my late ship-
mates, who were, no doubt, threading the intricacies of its
channels. But the good guanaco mantle kept out the wind,
and our motley party pushed briskly on in good order.
Lieutenant Gallegos has been already introduced : as to the
others, J'aria was a small man, of rough exterior, of doubtful
extraction, and more than doubtful antecedents, who looked
fit for any business except good ; but he served me most assi-
duously, and with unlooked-for care. The soldier was a J&ne-
looking fellow, new to the Pampas, whose carbine, which
he duly carried, proved a source of great embarrassment to
him ; and his horse being by no means too manageable, he
was considerably bothered, much to the delight of the rest.
Two others were hybrids, between gauchos and sailors, having,
like our marines, been equally accustomed to service per mare,
per terram ; but, like the jollies, they were unmistakeably
useful and good men. The last of the party was of the J'aria
type. All were well mounted, and provided with a spare
horse. We carried for provisions biscuit, charqui or dried
meat, roasted wheat meal, and coffee and sugar, and were
furnished with a,n unusual but welcome luxury, a small tent,
underneath which we cared little for the bitter frost outside.
After riding over the Pampas for three or four hours we
encamped for the night in a hollow by the side of a lagoon,
having selected a suitable spot for pitching the tent on the
sheltered slope, well out of the sweep of the wind. The
lagoon was covered with black-necked swans and other wild
Ch. I.] CABECERA DEL MAR. 17
fowl ; SO, as soon as tlie horses liaci been unloaded and looked
after, a fire lit, and all arrangements made for camping,
two or three of us went out to try and shoot some wild fowl ;
but our sporting endeavours were not crowned with much
success, and a little before dark we returned to a supper of
charqui, and after a talk over the fire, turned in, and slept
sound and warm, though outside the frost was severe. My
mind was much disquieted, first by the discovery that the box
of rifle ammunition which J'aria carried had been dropped by
that worthy at the scene of the baggage horse escapade, and
secondly, by the mysterious absence from my shot-belt of
all my coin, consisting of an onza and a few sovereigns. I
said nothing, however, until next morning, when I proceeded
quietly to search, remembering that I had taken off my
accoutrements before the tent was pitched, and dropped in
the grass I found the missing coins. The story afforded
J'aria a great theme for jokes, and he often adverted to the
chance of .inheriting my ounce, in a way that might have
made a timid traveller expect foul play, though nothing was
farther from my guide's thoughts. At seven o'clock, after
coffee and a biscuit, we were again en route, and about ten
arrived close to the head of Peckett's Harbour. Here one of
the party discovered a horse, which was chased into our
troop, but as it appeared lame was not pressed into our
service ; it had probably belonged to the Indians. As in a
long voyage, so in a journey of this description, the slightest
novelty serves to relieve what it is needless to say becomes
the slightly monotonous task of trotting along behind the
troop of horses over barren wastes, so we were always on the
qui vive for something to chase. One of the men had a dog
with him, and shortly after the excitement about the horse
we started some ostriches, which, however, proved too swift
for the cur, and escaped over some muddy plots close to the
* Cabecera del Mar.' This is a large inlet or arm of the sea,
running up some miles from Peckett's Harbour, with which
it communicates by a very narrow channel, which can only
be crossed at low water ; it was our good fortune to arrive at
this period, thus escaping a long detour round the inlet.
o
18 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
But our crossing was not effected without trouble; the
flood-tide rushing up Hke a mill-race, and proving almost
too much for the steadiness of one of the baggage-horses.
After clearing the channel, in our farther progress we passed
several small streams with swampy ground, all of which
probably discharge themselves into Oazy Harbour, and
arrived towards evening at an old Indian encampment situa-
ted under a range of hills, running more or less north and
south, forming one barrier of a broad and well- watered valley,
bounded on the eastern side by the well-known ' Barrancas '
of San Gregorio.
Our station was just within the opening of the valley,
which, being sheltered from the wind, is the favourite winter
quarters of the Southern Tehuelches, whose encampment is
usually pitched near Oazy Harbour, called by them ' Ozay
Saba.'
Westward the low flats which bordered the shores of the
Cabecera del Mar terminated in irregular hills, beyond which
hio-her peaks rose, and they in their turn were overlooked by
distant snow-clad summits on the horizon. Among the blue
hills of the middle distance floated wreaths of light haze so
much resembling smoke that Gallegos, ever on the alert for
signs of the deserters, proposed to deviate from our route
to investigate, and only my strongly j)ronounced opinion in
favour of haze versus smoke induced him to give up the idea.
The Argentine Government formerly planned a settlement in
this valley, which was not carried out, and the missionaries
also proposed to fix a station hereabouts, with Oazy Harbour
as a depot, but the Chilians of Punta Arena set up their
claims and compelled the missionaries to desist.
After camp was arranged, the weather, which since our
start had been bright with cold winds and moderate frosts
at night, changed to rain, and Gallegos proposed to me that,
in the event of its continuing bad, we should remain under
the shelter of the tent. However, though the night was
rough and rainy, morning broke fair and the sun rose bright
and warm, so we started, following a path along the base of
the before-mentioned range of hills until about ten o'clock.
Ch. I.] A USELESS CHASE. 19
■when, just after passing a beautiful little stream where I
noticed fish darting about in the pools, a herd of guanaco
hitherto concealed by a small eminence, came into view.
Chase was immediately given, but most of our horses were
soon blown, and Gallegos, the soldier, and myself having
ascended the hills over which the herd had taken flight, as it
appeared useless to continue the chase, stopped on the crest
and watched the animals as they streamed up an opj)Osite
hill. One of the party was missing, and suddenly an ex-
clamation from the Lieutenant ' What is it ? ' caused us to
turn our eyes in the direction to which he pointed, where
some fancied they descried a man. The idea of deserters
immediately occurred to their minds, so they started off,
asking me to tell J'aria (who had remained with the horses)
to travel on to a given spot at the head of the valley.
Having descended the hill, which was tunnelled with burrows
of the Ctenomys Magellanicus,* the crowns of which, yielding
to the horses' tread, proved a series of dangerous traps, I re-
joined J'aria and we pursued our way for a few miles until we
reached a small lagoon at the head of the valley, covered
with thousands of widgeon and duck. The sight suggested
the thought that no man need starve in this country, so
abundant seemed the supplies of animal life. Here we
waited, and in the course of half-an-hour the remainder
came up with their horses blown, one of the party having a
piece of guanaco meat hanging to his saddle. This was
Jose Marinero, one of the hybrids, who had succeeded in
lazoing a guanaco, at which he ajspeared intensely delighted.
The ' man,' as I had previously sujDposed, j)roved imaginary.
I regretted not being up at the death, as it turned out that
Jose had been close to us, but hidden from sight by a rise.
After a pleasant and refreshing rest and a draught of cafe
Quillota (parched corn meal and water), we resumed our
route north. After leaving the lagoon, a scarcely perceptible
slope ascended from the valley, and a more undulating course
was traversed until we reached a small canon^ which, after a
gradual descent, dipped down between walls a hundred feet
' Cumiingbam, p. 133,
C 2
20 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
high, sloping up at either hand, and finishing in a rounded
summit leading to the high plain. ' Here,' said J' aria, ' there
is no firing, and those stupid Indian women actually carry
loads of it from the next stage.' But the event proved
that the Indians were wiser than ourselves. Following this
we arrived at another canon running at right angles, east
and west, on one of the grass-covered sides of which we
observed a couple of horses feeding in a hollow which looked
more verdant than the rest of the ground, but the animals
being caught and examined proved unsound and useless.
In the bottom of the canon there flowed a small but deep
stream spreading into lagoons in places. We crossed this
and encamped on the northern side, and found J'aria's
words, as to no fuel to be found about this valley, verified,
much to our discomfort. Towards evening we went out and
shot some ducks, but having no fire to cook with, were con-
tent to turn in on meal and water. During the night the
tent pole, having been first soaked with rain and then frozen,
snapped in two, and down came the spread of wet canvas ;
and altogether we did not spend a very pleasant time.
Misfortunes never come single ; at daylight no horses were
to be seen, and we had to wait until near ten o'clock before
they turned up. During this interval we burnt the tent pegs
and some chips from the tent pole, and raised sufficient fire
to make coffee. J'aria informed me that this caiion extends
from the Cordillera to the sea, but runs in a tortuous manner,
and we afterwards again struck either the main line or some
canon leading from it. Having scaled the precipitous banks,
we headed towards a range of peaked hills, curiously re-
sembling one another, and after passing down one or two
more canons, where we refreshed ourselves with the berries of
a barberry (Berberis axifoha), called by the Chilians califate,
and also saw plenty of the red and white tea-berries, so com-
mon in the Falklands, we entered a wide plain or valley, a,t
the farther end of which rose a peculiar pointed hill, one of
a range that stretched away east and west, pierced by a pass.
In the midst of it a huge square flat rock shone white in the
sunlight, forming a striking object: it looked like a megalith.
Ch. I.] VOLCANIC HILLS. 21
deposited by giants to cover the grave of some deceased hero.
Others of less dimensions lay strewn here and there, giving
somewhat of a graveyard aspect to the scene. As we ad-
vanced the ground was encumbered with rocks and scoriae,
lying in heaps in all directions, making it very difficult
travelling for the horses, and on arriving at the hills them-
selves their appearance was decidedly volcanic. The whole
immediate vicinity of this range of hills presented a peculiarly
wild, blasted, and weird appearance ; nevertheless ostriches
and guanaco were observable in great quantities. My first
thought on passing one hill, where, among the other
fantastic forms into which the rocks had been tossed, was
a natural corral, or circle of huge fragments, built with
apparent regularity, but of superhuman dimensions, was,
* What a hell this must have been when the volcanoes were
in an active state, belching out the streams of lava and
showers of rock, and that perhaps at no distant period ! '
While at. Santa Cruz, Casimiro told me of an active volcano
situated at a distance and in a direction which would fix
it as belonging to this range. Formerly its neighbour-
hood had been frequented by the Indians, as the guanaco
yesorted thither in great numbers during the winter ; but
the Indians' horses had most of them been poisoned by
drinking the water of a stream close to the range, and soon
after all the toldos were shaken down by an earthquake or
the vibration of an explosion, and since then they had not
ventured to go near the place. Casimiro and Gonzalez had,
however, subsequently ascended the volcano, and had killed
numbers of guanaco in the neighbourhood. It was also
mentioned that when they were encamped on the Cuheyli, or
Coy Inlet Eiver, tremendous volumes of thick black smoke,
rolling from the west, enveloped the Indians and terrified
them exceedingly. No signs were afterwards found of burned
pasture, and it was conjectured that the Canoe Indians of
the Chonos Archipelago had fired the western forests, but it
was much more likely to have been due to volcanic eruption.
While trotting along the defile through these hills formed
by a chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock rising on each
22 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
hand, as evenly scarped as the sides of a railway cutting,
I observed several caves, which J'aria had a tradition the
Indians formerly used as dwelling places. This pass led into
another valley still more rugged and strewn with sharp
angular fragments of rock, amongst which stunted shrubs
began to appear; and lagoons, some of which were encrusted
round the edges with saltpetre, and contained brackish water,
might be seen at intervals. Towards evening we encamped
by the side-of a small lagoon of circular form, with wall-like
cliffs rising some 200 feet from its banks, and nearly sur-
rounding it. I took a stroll, rifle in hand, whilst the men
were getting firewood ; and plenty of guanaco were visible,
but I only succeeded in wounding one, which escaped on
three legs. Traces of a puma, in the shape of carrion, were
also there, but Leon himself was hidden. So I returned
empty-handed to the fire, where I found a cheerful supper
of wild duck and guanaco meat just ready. The moon
was beautiful, and the air just frosty enough to be bracing
and exhilarating, so some of us staid smoking and spin-
ning yarns until the small hours. The stories were chiefly
of adventures on the Pampas. Jose narrated how, when
in pursuit of a party of runaways in the depth of winter,
when the snow lay thick on the ground, he and his com-
rade rode into a valley where countless guanaco had taken
refuge from the storm in the upper heights, and stood
huddled together, too benumbed by the cold to attempt to
escape, and were slaughtered like oxen in the shambles. In
another hunt the party overtook the deserters, housed in
the toldo of an Indian, and a fight ensued, ending in the
death of one of the pursuers ; the deserter who shot him was
pistolled, and J'aria and Jose carried the dead body of their
comrade on horseback to the settlement, sixty miles distant,
proceeding without a halt all through the night, and ac-
complishing their ghastly journey by the next morning.
J'aria related how he had been drifted in a launch among the
ice in the Straits, and carried over to Tierra del Tuego, where
they found rocks so magnetic that iron nails adhered to them.
Jle further amused us by a short dissertation on his domestic
Ch. I.] RIO GALLEGOS. 23
arrangements; hovr, wlien his last wife died, lie married a
Chilote to be mother for his children and wife for him, and
he always called her in conversation the * Madre Muger ' —
wife mother.
Next morning we started early, and varying our march
with one or two races after foxes, which generally met their
death in a very short time, and an engagement with a female
puma, which one of the men despatched by a splendid re-
volver shot through the head, traversed some uneven Pampas,
with occasional hills, and arrived at the descent of the
valley of the Rio Gallegos, where the very remarkable bench
formation, afterwards observed on a smaller or larger scale
in other Patagonian rivers, first arrested my attention. To
the west, some miles away, a high hill, apparently of basalt,
the square summit of which with seemingly regular walls
and towers mimicked the distant view of an extensive
fortress, served as a landmark for the bi'eak in the bar-
ranca, which formed a natural road, by which we reached
the first or upper bench, a mile and a half in width ; from
this a drop or scarped slope of 50 feet and upwards de-
scended to another terrace or plain of equal extent, and
terminating in another faE, at the bottom of which lay
the bed of the river ; it is fordable in the summer months,
I believe, in many places, but when we crossed the water
about reached where one's saddle flaps would be if riding on
an English saddle. After crossing the ford a halt took place
to smoke a pipe, whilst doing which we watched the gyra-
tions of a huge vulture of the condor species ; he hovered
for some time, and at length boldly settled on a point of
rock about a hundred yards distant ; so the soldier, whose
carbine was always ready, took a shot, but missed, much to
the grief of Gallegos, who asserted that the heart of the
vulture is a good remedy for certain diseases. We then
mounted, and riding about a mile halted for the night by a
spring gushing out of a ravine in the slope between the upper
and lower benches, where the pasture was good, as J' aria
declared that water was scarce for some leagues farther on.
The bivouac arranged, Jose and myself proceeded to try and.
24 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
shoot a guanaco, but the plain was too open, so, after light-
ing up a bed of dry grass to attract any neighbouring
Indians, we very foolishly indulged in a bathe in the river.
The water was intensely cold, and the ill effects of this ill-
timed indulgence were felt for a long time after. The soldier
meanwhile was away on horseback chasing a large herd, but
he returned about dusk empty handed. Next morning we
started about 9 o'clock, having been, as usual, delayed by the
horses having strayed some distance. Ascending the slope
we crossed the higher bench, a barren, dreary waste, for
about a league, until we came to a lagoon covered with
upland geese, and lying just below what may be termed the
barranca of the Ux^per Pampa. Halting here for a smoke
and warm to dispel the effects of the intensely cold wind, we
were about resuming our route to ascend the steep slope of
the upper plains, when large columns of smoke, in answer to
the signal fire we had left behind us, rose up to the sky in a
N.E. direction. We moved on, and arriving at the summit
of the ascent, looked eagerly round for signs of the fire, but
nothing was visible. The plains lay before us apparently
destitute of life, excepting a stray guanaco here and there.
J*aria then set light to a neighbouring bush, which gave out
dense clouds of black smoke, and in a few minutes this was
answered in the same direction as that previously observed.
A horseman was at length espied galloping towards us, who
proved to be an Indian named Sam, son of the chief Casimiro,
who has been mentioned in the missionary reports. After
conversing for a short time with J'aria and Gallegos, he
turned to me and said, in English, ' How do you do ? I speak
little Anglishe,' which he had learned during a visit to the
Falklands, where also he had acquired his sobriquet of Sam
Slick. He then galloped away at full speed, and brought up his
companions, who had been concealed from view in a neigh-
bouring hollow ; the party consisted of two men and a boy, and
two women, all mounted, and apparently having just finished
hunting, as they had plenty of fresh guanaco meat with them.
We halted by a bush, and in a few minutes had a fire
kindled, and the pipe being handed round, I had an oppor-
Ch. I.] SAM SLICK. 25
tunity of observing them closely. The men were fine mus-
cular specimens. One, whom they called Henrique, was a
Fuegian, formerly, I believe, a captive, but now doctor, or
wizard. He travelled with this party separate from the
remainder of the tribe on account of some suspicion of his
having caused the death of a chief. One of the men, taller
than the others, was a Tehuelche. The boy was bright look-
ing and intelligent, and it afterwards appeared that Don
Luiz Buena had kept him for some time, vainly endeavouring
to teach him Spanish. They were very cordial, and especially
forced on me more meat than I could carry ; but there was a
certain constraint visible in their manners, probably owing
to their being conscious of some dealings with the deserters,
whom J'aria counselled them to despatch whenever they might
meet with them. The women carried bottles of water, which
they readily gave us, to our great refreshment and relief, for
we were all parched with thirst.
Gallegos asked Sam whether he was willing to guide us to
Santa Cruz, J'aria not being over certain of the route. The
tracks made by the guanacos are easily mistaken by almost
anyone but an Indian for the trail of ' chinas,' or caravans
of women and laden horses ; and this, combined with the
want of landmarks on the Pampas and the confusing succes-
sion of hills closely resembling each other, renders it only too
easy to lose the right direction. As examples of this, out of
ten deserters of whom the party was in search, six were
never more heard of. Our guide J'aria himself, when travel-
ling from Santa Cruz to the colony, lost his way, and would
inevitably have starved had he not fortunately been fallen in
with by a party of Indians. Sam having agreed to come
with our party, we bid adieu to the Indians, who, in return
for their presents of meat, were gratified with a little tobacco,
and rode off. Suddenly a fox started up from a neighbour-
ing bush. The soldier giving chase, Sam shouted, ' Stop, I'll
show you : ' at the same time putting spurs to his horse, and
cutting Eeynard off, he put his hand to his waist-belt, drew
out his bolas, gave them two turns round his head, and in
another minute the fox was lying dead, with his ribs crushed
26 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
completely in where tlie metal ball had struck him. Under
the directions of our new guide, who rode ahead with me, we
traversed a succession of high barren plains, sinking into
frequent irregular hollows, without streams, but usually con-
taining lagoons of salt or brackish water, until, about 4 p.m.,
we descended into the valley of E,io Cuheyli, or the river,
which debouches at Coj Inlet. The bench formation, though
noticeable, is not here so decidedly marked. For some time
we pursued the trail in an orderly march ; but an ostrich
springing nearly under our horses' feet, and escaping over
some marshy swamp, where horses could not follow, roused
Sam's hunting propensities, and he proposed to myself, the
soldier, and Jose to leave the path — which he said, with em-
phatic disdain, was good for women, not for men — and ride
up the barranca to see him ball an ostrich ; . so having regained
the Pampa, we formed into line, about two hundred yards
apart, to drive a certain area of ground down to a point
where there was a gentle slope to the valley, so as to meet
the advancing cavalcade of the rest of our pai-ty. We saw
nothing except one ostrich vanishing at great speed towards
the valley at another point, and a pair of doves, which I
remarked with interest ; so we returned to the track, and as
night was closing in, pushed on, wishing to cross the ford of
the river and encamp on the other side. At seven o'clock,
having reached a nice spring flowing from the barranca,
where there was firewood in profusion, Gallegos ordered a
halt, although Sam wished to proceed, observing that the
moon was so bright it was ' all the same as day.' We accord-
ingly encamped for the night, after making a good supper off
guanaco meat, which was a pleasant change after our previous
charqui. The valley of the Cuheyli slightly indicates the bench
formation, though it does not present so distinctly marked
terraces as those which border the Gallegos River ; but the
lowest or river plain, which is nearly two leagues wide in the
neighbourhood of the ford, is of a more fertile character, the
pasture being luxuriant and good. One or two of the springs
— notably the one the water of which, contrary to our guide's
advice and example, we drank — had a strong taste of iron,
Ch. I.] MEETING WITH TEHUELCHES. 27
wliicli caused all tlie party to suffer from internal deran.g©— y
ment; and Sam stated that near our encampment there was af
deposit of the black earth with which the Indians paint theirj
bodies. Starting early, after a night of severe frost, we soon
struck the ford. Our guide had vanished ; but while re-
arranging the packs, we saw a volume of black smoke rising
to the east, caused by Sam, who, having thus signalled his
countrymen, rejoined us on the march across the slightly
ascending plain. We then observed numerous Indians
galloping in our direction, and crossing the stream at various
parts, as J'aria remarked, quite regardless of fords. We
halted, and were soon surrounded by about forty or more,
most of them riding useful-looking horses barebacked. As
they appeared very friendly, Gallegos gave them some biscuit
and charqui ; their chiefs — the head cacique being a nephew
of Casimiro — forming them into a semi-circle, in tolerably
good order, to receive the present. There were undoubtedly
some very tall men amongst them, but what struck me
particularly was their splendid development of chest and
arms. Although the wind was very sharp, many of them
had their mantles thrown back in a careless way, leaving
their naked chests exposed to the air, and appeared not the
least incommoded. They readily recognised me for an
Englishman, coming and examining me closely, and asking
for tobacco with a broad grin on their faces, exposing a
wonderfully clean and regular set of teeth. My gratifying
their importunate requests for tobacco made Sam very
jealous, and for some time he bothered me with remarks
such as ' Me very cold, no got poncho,' ' Me no got knife,
me no got "pellon " ' (saddle-cloth), until, finding it useless
to beg, he relapsed into sullen silence. A smoke of the pipe,
however, brought him back to his usual cheerful temper, and
as we galloped along he chanted an Indian song, which con-
sisted of the words ' Ah ge lay loo, Ah ge lay loo,' expressed
in various keys.
After a ride of some leagues in a rather more open but stiU
undulating country, a break in the Pampas was reached.
Hills of irregular and picturesque outlines, with labyrinthine
28 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
valleys or ravines, not running in parallel order, but com-
municating with each, other, occupied an extensive district,
and though travelling vs^as considerably more difficult, yet the
change in the asj)ect of nature was grateful after the barren
monotony of the plains.
We halted in an Indian encampment, situated in a valley
underneath a peaked hill called ' Otiti,' where there were
pools of fresh and salt water in close proximity. Amongst
the incense and thorn bushes, which grow at intervals in these
regions, we passed to-day another description of shrub with a
thick rough bark, which is readily detached and leaves a long
rattail-like sort of twig. From the Eio Gallegos the soil had
become generally of a yellower colour than on the south side
of that river, although in the valleys and hollows dark peaty
earth was generally to be found, and the surface of the Pam-
pas had assumed a more desolate aj)pearance, being strewn
with small pebbles, and studded with bushes — generally of a
thorny species. Round clumps of prickly thistles, which burn
like tinder on applying a lighted match — and a few stray tufts
of withered grass, only made more desolate the hungry barren-
ness of the deserts, over which the wind blew with cutting
violence, yet they are the home of large herds of guanaco,
ostriches, puma, and armadillo, though the latter were at
this period comfortably hybernating.
Next morning no horses were visible, and as time went on
till ten o'clock without any appearance we all began to suspect
Indian treachery. Sam volunteered the remark that if they
(the Indians) had played us such a trick, he would go and
clear all their animals out the following evening. This
threat there was fortunately no occasion for him to put into
execution, as the troop proved only to have straj'ed into
another valley. As we were now nearing Santa Cruz, which
the last of the Indians were just leaving, having completed
their trade and finished all the grog, we saw numerous
columns of smoke, caused by their hunting parties. After
passing the broken ground and reaching the high Pampa, Sam
and myself rode on ahead, amusing ourselves by fruitlessly
chasing guanaco or ostrich, but Sam's dexterity with the
Ch. I.] 'ANGLISH' POLITENESS. 29
bolas was frustrated by liis being mounted on a horse belong-
ing to the expedition and unused to this work. Towards
evening, after again passing numerous salt lagoons, we came
to a descent of 300 or 400 feet leading to a valley containing
a large salina, and halting, made our fire by the side of a
spring, near which, Sam informed me, were the graves of two
Indians, which he mentioned with the deepest respect and
in an awe-stricken undertone.
Our signal smoke, which was as much to attract Indians
as to give the direction of our route to Gallegos and J'aria,
was soon responded to from the opposite hills on the northern
side of the valley, and shortly a line of mounted women and
children descended the slope in front, making for our fire,
which Sam informed me was their intended camping place. We
advanced to meet them, and Sam conversed in their tongue,
interpreting to me that they had left Santa Cruz two days
previously, and that Don Luiz P. B. had quitted his settle-
ment on the island to sail in his schooner to Buenos Ayres ;
while the Northern Indians, encamped to the north of Santa
Cruz, with whom I hoped to proceed to the Rio Negro, had
no intention of marching until the ensuing spring. On
leaving those ladies, amongst whom was a young and rather
pretty girl, I lifted my cap in salute, which called forth a
burst of laughter from the whole group and cries of ' Anglish,
Anglish ! ' amidst which we rode off to join the remainder of
our party, who were crossing the valley to the eastward,
having intentionally deviated from the straight route ; and
although Sam used every effort to induce Gallegos to stop
at the Indian encampment, the latter wisely determined
to proceed about a league farther, knowing that a halt here
would cause a considerable inroad to be made in the stock of
provisions, which, in view of the return journey, with perhaps
an increased party, it was desirable to avoid. We accordingly
left the sheltered valley and encamped on the plateau in an
exposed situation near a lagoon, the ice of which had to be
broken to secure a supply of water. The frost was keen, and
the tent afforded but a partial pr.otection from the biting
wind ; so that the economical foresight of our leader resulted
30 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
in all tlie party spending tlie coldest night hitherto ex-
perienced hy us.
During the evening we were visited by several Indians,
bringing presents of ostrich and gnanaco meat. I was pre-
sented by the soldier with a piece of the gizzard (the tid bit),
which he had cooked on the end of his ramrod ; but I must
confess I did not appreciate it at the time, though later on
in my journey I learnt to relish this and other strange
delicacies. Amongst the Indians who gave us the benefit of
their company this evening was ' Pedro el Platero,' mentioned
in Mr. Gardener's mission book ; also an old squaw rejoicing
in the name of ' La Re ina Victoria ' (Queen Victoria), who was
the occasion of much chaff, my Chilian friends declaring I
ought to salute the sovereign of the Pampas in due form ;
but having obtained a charge and a light for her pipe, all
she required, she was soon lost sight of in the dark. We
gladly left the camp early the ensuing morning, the cold
continuing unabated ; the wind blew strong in our faces, and
though from the northward, was so keen that Sam and m.j-
self kept galloping on and kindling fires at intervals.
Thus we rode on over a tract of country surpassing in
desolation all the districts hitherto traversed. As far as the
eye could reach stretched a level waste unrelieved by even an
eminence or hollow ; the aspect of the low withered shrubs,
coarse parched grass, and occasional patches of pebble-strewn
ground which for thirty miles wearied the eye with dreary
sameness, produced an extraordinary feeling of depression,
which was afterwards recalled when journeying through the
Travisia, bordering the Rio Negro, which this district re-
sembles^ though on a smaller scale. Occasional frozen
lagoons, doubtless supplied by rainfall, only added to the
desert aspect of this trackless wilderness. The situation
was not improved by Sam pulling up and remarking that he
was by no means sure that he had not lost himself. The
only variety was afforded by an unlucky fox which we chased
till he escaped, as he thought, on to the ice of a lagoon, but
the treacherous surface gave way, and poor Reynard, after a
vigorous struggle, sank out of reach of a lazo. At last.
Ch. I.J ■ SANTA CKUZ AT LAST. 31
about two o'clock, the desert terminated in a cliff rising
from tlie valley at our feet, and we looked down upon the
winding river of the Santa Cruz.
Having waited till the rest came up, we descended by a
gorge to the valley, when, after refreshing ourselves by
a drink of water, we struck into a trail which followed the
river downwards. We were all in high spirits at the prospect
of a speedy and felicitous conclusion to our journey ; and
J'aria was continually questioned as to the distance of the
settlement. His answer was invariably ' a league ; ' and we
rode along vainly expecting every moment to see the place,
rounding innumerable promontories or points where the
barranca advanced into the valley. Each of these project-
ing cliffs, which stood like outposts of the Pampas, J'aria
declared in succession to be the last, Sam all the while
maintaining a dignified silence, until at length, at 7.30,
when we had almost despaired of ever arriving, we came to
the ford opj)osite the island of the settlement, and a barking
of dogs saluted our ears. After Sam had hailed, an answer
came back, that if we were going across that night we must
look sharp, as the tide was flowing. We accordingly pro-
ceeded to cross at once, narrowly escaping having to swim
our horses, which on a cold frosty night would have been
ly thing but a pleasant business.
My ideas as to the size and extent of the settlement — and
it must be confessed my visions of a ' cheerer,' and even of
wine, to put some warmth into my chilled frame — were sadly
dispelled by the reality ; the thriving, though small, town of
my imagination being represented b}' one house, and all wine
and liquor proving to have been exhausted. But this was
fully made up for by discovering in Mr. Clarke — or, as the
Indians called him, ' Clakalaka ' — an old acquaintance, whom
I had known some years previously in the Falklands. His
utter surprise at the sudden appearance of one whom he
thought far away may be imagined. But, to my great delight,
he thoroughly approved of the proposed excursion. His cordial
welcome and hot coffee soon cheered up our spirits, and when
warmed and rested we discussed my plans. It appeared that
32 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. I.
the Indians liad not reported wrong as to Don Luiz Buena's
movements and the intentions of the Northern party ; but
Mr. Clarke believed that the schooner was still detained in
the river mouth waiting for a fair wind, and undertook to
send off a messenger to communicate with him : mj object
being to obtain permission to reside in the settlement until
the return of the schooner, so as to equip myself with stores
as presents for the Tehuelches. After an agreeable * confab,' I
turned in on a shakedown on the floor, well satisfied with
having accom^jlished the first stage, and deriving a good
omen for the remainder of the journey from this successful
trip to Santa Cruz.
Ch. II.] SANTA CEUZ. 33
CHAPTEE II.
SANTA CRUZ.
Introduction to Chiefs.— Orkeke. — Chilian Deserters. — The Settlement. —
Island of Pabon. — Natural Advantages. — The Mission Station. —
Mr. Clarke. — Our Circle at Pabon. — Expedition to Lake Viednia. —
Winter Occupations. — Work and Play.— Casimiro's Adventures. — His
character. — A Winter Hunting Excursion. — A Pampa Snow-storm. —
The Santa Cruz Valley.— Up the River.— The Northern Hills.—
Pumas. — Devil's Eyes. — Hunting on Foot.— Intense Cold. — Return of
the Deserter.s. — Visit to the Indian Camp. — First Night in u Toldo.—
Towing a Horse. — Adieu to Santa Cruz.
Our first business next day was to despatch a messenger
to board the icliooner, if she should prove to be still in the
mouth of the river. My Chilian friends had found some of
the deserters, who had been taken into employment, and
subsequently detained aS close prisoners by the Mayor Domo,
at the instance of a serjeant sent round from Punta Arena in
the schooner, to solicit Don Luiz's assistance in their capture*
About noon Casimiro, soi-disant chief of the Tehuelches^
and father of Sam Slick, rode in from a hunting excursion,
mounted on a tall, shapely horse, and carrying a guanaco on
his saddle. I was formally introduced, and my plans and
purpose fully explained to him ; and soon after Orkeke, the
cacique of the party of Northern Tehuelches, encamped on
the liio Chico, arrived. His consent was necessary to enable
me to accompany them in their journey, and by means of
Casimiro as an interpreter, as the chief spoke but little
Spanish, my request was preferred. He confirmed the state-
ment of Mr. Clarke, that his people intended to winter in
their present encampment, and then proceed northwards ;
but did not seem at all disposed to welcome the addition of
D
34 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
an Englishman to his party, urging the difficult nature of the
road, length of time, chances of fights, &c., &c. However, I
hoped that during the enforced delay opportunities would
arise of improving our acquaintance, and obtaining his con-
sent. I was much struck with the grave and dignified bear-
ing of the old chief. Standing fully six feet, and with a
well-proportioned muscular frame, no one would have guessed
him to have passed his 60th year ; and whether vaulting on
a bare-backed steed, or leading the chase, he displayed an
agility and endurance equal to that of any of the younger
men : his thick black hair was slightly streaked with grey ;
and the bright intelligent eyes, aquiline nose, and thin firm
lips were very unlike the popular idea of Patagonian features ;
a retreating forehead rather marred the expression of his
face, which was, however, grave and thoughtful, and at times
strikingly intellectual. Months passed in his company gave
me afterwards ample opportunity of studying his powers of
reflection, which were great, and often found expression in
pithy and amusing sayings. Although particularly neat in
his dress, and cleanly in his habits, he was troubled, like all
the Indians, with vermin ; and one night he roused me up to
have a smoke, and after sitting for some time, apparently
lost in deep thought, he remarked, ' Musters, lice never
sleep ! ' He would sometimes, but rarely, indulge in intoxica-
tion, but never quarrelled, and it was an understood thing
that either he or his brother Tankelow should on occasions
of a general drinking bout remain sober to protect their
families. He was himself childless, and had adopted a little
terrier named Ako, which enjoyed the place and honours of
an only child ; but he displayed great afifection towards his
nephews and nieces, some one or other of whom might often
be seen in his arms on a march, or after the return from the
chase. During our first acquaintance I was most pleased
when, as often happened, he joined our little circle, and in
the company of his old friend, Mi\ Clarke, unbent from his
gravity and laughed and talked in a way that seemed quite
foreign to the usually serious chief. It must be confessed
that he was jealous and suspicious, and a little stingy, pre-
Cii. II.] CHILIAN DESERTERS. 35
ferring to increase rather tlian lessen liis large stock of
horses, gear, and arms ; but from the time I became his
guest his conduct to myself was irreproachable.
In the evening the messenger returned ; he had of course
completely mistaken his instructions, and informed Don Luiz
that the Englishman desired to proceed in the schooner to
Buenos Ayres, and accordingly a boat arrived with tlie morn-
ing flood tide to take me off. Mr. Clarke good naturedlv
undertook to go himself and explain matters ; and returned
with a kind message, offering me quarters and every hospi-
tality if I chose to remain in the settlement for the next two
months, at the end of Avhich period the schooner might be
expected to return. Lieut. Gallegos strongly urged me to
accompany him back to Punta Arena, painting in strong
colours the tedium and discomfort of a winter at Santa Cruz.
But it was plain that the opportunity of cultivating the
acquaintance and securing the confidence of Orkeke would
thus be thrown away, and with it the prospect of traversing
the country. Gallegos believed that this plan was fraught
with danger, and indeed almost certain destruction; but as I
was immovable, we took an affectionate farewell of each
other. He and all his party had treated me, an utter
stranger, with the greatest kindness, and I bade adieu to
them as true comrades. They departed on their return
journey, taking with them the four prisoners, who, however,
are destined to appear again in these pages. These men had
undergone much hardship to obtain the liberty of which they
seemed again deprived ; three of them had managed to secure
a horse, and walking and riding in turns had found their
way to the Indians. Two of them, Olate and Eosa, the latter,
though a mere boy, with a thoroughly evil and murderous coun-
tenance, were incurably bad ; but Mena, a youth of nineteen,
attracted one's sympathy by his handsome frank face and
cleanly smart appearance ; the fourth, Arica, had made his
way on foot from Punta Arena to Santa Cruz, without any
knowledge of the country, and only guided by a vague notion
of the existence of the settlement to the north. He had for
twenty-seven days followed the line of the sea-coast, subsist-
36 AT no:ME with the PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
ing on shell fish and sea-birds' eggs ; the toil and hardships
thus undergone must have been indescribable, and his eventual
safe arrival was a miracle of patient endurance. He brought
in news of the loss of a tender to the schooner, a decked
launch, in which Captain Warren and three men had sailed
from Staten Land and been no more heard of; of their fate
there was now little doubt, as he had found her dingy cast up
on the beach, and a piece of the mainsail out of which he had
supplied himself with clothes.
The promising Sieve of the mission, Sam Slick, also accom-
panied the party. Before his departure he offered to give a
specimen of his education by singing a hymn, with a broad
hint that grog was a fitting accompaniment; but as none
was forthcoming, we lost the chance of being edified by his
performance.
We watched the cavalcade till it disappeared in the dis-
tance on the upper plains, and then returned to the station,
where I settled myself to pass the ensuing three months of
the Patagonian winter. The settlement or trading station
of Santa Cruz consists of only three houses, built on an
island called ' Pabon,' marked as Middle Island, in Islet
Reach, in Fitzroy's chart. It is owned by Don Luiz P.
Buena, who holds by virtue of a grant from the Argentine
Government, which has also conferred on him the commission
of captain in the navy, with power to prevent all foreign
sealers from trespassing on the valuable seal fisheries on the
coast. The island is about a mile and a half long, and has
an average breadth of some 350 yards. Access is obtained
from the south shore by a ford, about fifty yards across, only
passable at low water. The northern channel is wider and
deeper, and the swiftness of the current renders it imj^assable
save by a boat, which is moored ready to ferry over Indians
desirous of trading, and is also useful for bringing wood for
fuel, which is not obtainable on the island. About a hundred
yards from the ford stands the principal house, substantially
built of bricks, with tiled roof, containing three rooms, and
a sort of porch to shelter a nine-pounder, commanding the
entrance. It is farther defended by a stockade, over which
M§[
III
Ch. II.] ISLAND OF PABON. 37
floats the Argentine flag, and beyond it a fosse, which is
filled with water by the spring tides. The object of these
fortifications is to afford protection in case of the Indians
proving troublesome when under the influence of rum.
Though Mr. Clarke narrated some queer scenes he had wit-
nessed, his excellent management had hitherto obviated any
danger, and the fairness of his dealings with them had
secured their friendship, a regular tariff with equitable prices
having been fixed, and scrupulously adhered to, by which
their barter of ostrich feathers and peltries was regulated ;
and although they are keen bargainers, often spending two
or three hours in debating the price to be given, they appre-
ciated the fairness with which they were treated. A second
house was situated about fifty yards off, and being generally
used as a store, bore the name of the Almacen : at this time
being empty, one room served as a sleeping-place for some
of the men, and the other had been given up for the accom-
modation of Casimiro and his family. A third house, which
stood at the eastern end of the island, was unoccupied.
Near it a small plot had been tilled, and potatoes, turnips,
and other vegetables had been successfully raised. At the
time of my visit no corn had been tried, but a subsequent
experimental sowing of one and a half fanegas ' gave a field,
though little pains were bestowed on the crop, of twenty
fanegas. As the lower part of the island is liable to be
overflowed at high springs, a ditch had been cut across to
drain off the water, and there was consequently no lack of
irrigation. The ground was covered with stunted bushes,
and the small spike-thorn round thistle, and coarse grass.
The few sheep appeared to thrive well, but decreased very
sensibly in number during the winter, as on days when
game was scarce one fell a victim to the ravenous appetite
engendered by the keen air of Patagonia. A numerous
troop of horses grazed on the mainland, in a tract below
the Southern Barranca, called the 'Potrero,' where the
grass, though coarse, grew in rank luxuriance. When
wanted for hunting, the entire stud was brought across
' A fanega contains 100 lbs.
38 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
the river in the morning and driven into the corral; but
ordinarily one alone was kept on the island readj for
emergencies.
It should be mentioned that a small stock of cattle, and
also some .pigs, had been imported ; these, however, being
necessarily left to graze on the mainland, had wandered, and
become wild ; the cattle probably falling victims to the
Indian hunters ; but the pigs will no doubt multiply, and
become the founders of a race of hogs, destined hereafter to
add pig-sticking to th'e amusements of the future settlers or
of the wandering Tehuelches.
Above the island of Pabon there are several smaller islets,
but as they are liable to be overflowed by the highest tides,
they cannot, without artificial drainage, be made available
for tillage. From one which had been occupied and tilled
with root-crops, we obtained a quantity of well-grown
turnips. It was a singular mistake of the Spaniards to form
a settlement at Port St. Julian and overlook the far superior
advantages presented by Santa Cruz. The plains and islands
of the latter present good grazing grounds and tillage lands,
as well as a site for a town secure from sudden Indian sur-
prises ; and as regards fitness for a shipping station, there is
no comparison between the two localities, as ships can be
beached at Santa Cruz in a sheltered place with the flood-
tide ; while the timber, in search of which Viedma made his
expedition, was to be had in abundance by ascending the
river. At the present time the knowledge of the navigation
of the Straits would make it much easier and cheaper to import
timber from Punta Arena than to send lumberers into the
Cordillera and raft the timber down to Santa Cruz.
Near the potrero, on the southern shore, there is a natural
salt lake or salina, which must have been overlooked by the
Beagle expedition, as Mr. Darwin fixes the southern limits
of Salinas at Port St. Julian. In the summer, and until
the winter rains and snow set in, an inexhaustible supplj^ of
excellent salt can be obtained. It is at present worked only
to furnish, besides the salt for home use, what is required for
the annual sealing fishery ; but if labour were more abundant.
Ch. II.] THE MISSION STATION. 39
the salt would be found to be a valuable article of export to
the Falkland Islands; the salina being situated less than
half a mile from the beach, where there is good anchorage.
The river also yields abundant supplies of fish — a species
of bass and others — which when cured keep well : some which
had been cured over a year proved excellent. These might
be profitably exported to Eio Janeiro, &c., where cured fish
are always in demand.
Notwithstanding these natural advantages, Santa Cruz
could hardly at this period be considered a settlement. Sub-
sequently to my visit, two Frenchmen from Buenos Ayrea
proposed to try sheep farming in the valley, but with what
result I have not heard. As already mentioned, the station
existed as a depot for sealing, and as a trading post, to which
the Tehuelches resorted to exchange their ostrich feathers,
and puma, guanaco, and ostrich skins, for tobacco, sugar,
ammunition, and above all, rum. There was little or no
trade going on during the absence of the schooner, as all the
stores had been exhausted ; but after the summer campaign
some of the Tehuelches invariably resort thither, and the
vicinity has always been a favourite winter quarters. The
missionaries, Messrs. Schmid and Hart, endeavoured to avail
themselves of this opportunity for essaying the conversion
and civilisation of the Indians. They resided for some time
in 1863 at a spot near Wed^fcell Bluff, about ten miles from
the mouth of the river. To quote Mr. Sterling's description,
the station was at the mouth of a valley which 'retreats
towards the south-west for a considerable distance inland ; a
stream of pure water floAvs perennially through it, and a
broad belt of grass, offering fine pasture for cattle,* gives a
cheerful, fertile aspect to the low land ; the hills on either
side are intersected with ravines, or lift up their bronzed
faces out of some intervening dale, and refresh the air with
the aroma of shrubs and plants growing everywhere about
them.'
This was written after a visit in the summer month of
Janua,ry, and the picture drawn presents the landscape in its
fairest colours ; very different from its bleak aspect as viewed
by myself in the winter. This vaUey still bears the name of Los
40 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
Misionarios, but this is the only existing trace of their settle-
ment. Mr. Schmid, however, during his sojourn and journeys
with a party of the Indians, compfled a vocabulary of the
Tsoneca language, as spoken by the southern Tehuelches.
Their plan for establishing trade at Santa Cruz, in order to
secure the regular visits of the Indians, was not approved of
by the managers of the mission, and they were obliged to
abandon the scene of their praiseworthy but unsuccessful
efforts — to instruct at least 'the little bright-faced Patagonian
children,' of whom they speak in their joui-nals with warm
affection.
The counter attractions of rum supplied by a trader who
visited the river were felt by Mr. Schmid to be very de-
structive of his influence, but it cannot be doubted that their
store, if established, would have had no chance against any
rival that supplied rum to his customers ; for though there
are many exceptions, the Indians too eagerly expend the
spoils of their hunting and industry in liquor. Their wives,
however, when they accompany them, take care to manage
their business with discretion, and reserve sufficient stock to
barter for more useful and innocent luxuries as well as
necessaries. There is no doubt that in the event of the
futui-e development of this settlement, it might serve as a
point d'appui to raise the Tehielches to the level of a more
cultivated and settled mode of existence; but speculations on
this point are not within n;y province, and it is time to
introduce the members of the party with whom my winter
was agreeably spent on the island of Pabon. With Don Luiz
P. Buena and his amiable and accomplished senora I sub-
sequently made acquaintance, which ripened into friendship ;
but though his guest, I was at jjresent personally unknown
to him. In his absence, his representative, Mr. Clarke, Avho,
as already mentioned, was an old acquaintance, did all he
could to make me feel at home. He was a handsome youno-
fellow of twenty-five, and an excellent specimen of the
versatile and cosmopolitan New Englander, ' raised ' in
Salem, Massachusetts, where he had been brought up as a
builder, though he afterwards ' shipped himself on board of a
ship.' In his nautical life hg had been mate of the Snow
Ch. II.] OUR CIRCLE AT PABON. 41
Squall, in a homeward voyage from Sliangliai, when she was
chased off the Cape of Good Hope bv the Alabama, and
but for the pluck of the Cciptain and crew, and the wonderful
sailing powers of the craft, another item would have been
added to Mr. Adams's ' little bill.' As it was, the beautiful
vessel fairly outsailed the swift steamer. The steadiness of
the crew, and their we]l-deserved attachment to the captain,
were most strongly pi'oved on this occasion. As there was
no alternative between putting in for water at St. Helena —
where it was too probable the Alabama would pounce upon
the prize — and running home upon half a pint per diem
each man, the captain left it to the crew to decide, and they
chose the latter course.
Mr. Clarke had spent three months travelling and hunting
in company with the Tehuelches, which had made him a most
expert hand with lazo or bolas, and well acquainted with the
Indian character ; and it was pleasant to hear that he enter-
tained a very high opinion of their intelligence and generous
dispositions. He treated them with fairness and considerate
kindness, and they repaid him by confidence and friendship.
Five other employes made up the rest of our party. No
social distinctions, however, prevailed, and the inhabitants
of Pabon lived in pleasant equality. The charge of the dogs
and horses, and the duty of supplying meat, devolved on two :
Gonzalez, a gaucho, a native of Patagones, who was as much
at home in the schooner on a sealing excursion, as in the saddle
balling an ostrich; and Juan Isidoro, a swarthy little man
whose sparkling black eyes told of his Indian blood, a native
of Santiago del Estero ; he had been sent as a soldier to Eio
Negro, whence he had managed to desert, and make his way
with Orkeke's Indians to the settlement. Next comes Juan
Chileno, a bright, fresh-complexioned youth of nineteen years,
to look at whom was refreshing, after the swarthy and
weather-beaten physiognomies of the others. Then Antonio,
a Portuguese, by turns gaucho, whaler, or sealer, always
ready with a song or a merry jest, and on occasion equally
quick with his knife. Holstein furnished the last, but by no
means least important ; a strong-built, good-natured, rather
stupid feUow, generally selected as the butt of the rest, who
42 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. II.
always styled him. ' El Cooke,' a sobriquet earned by bis
many voyages in that capacity on board various ships.
Curiously enough he proved to possess information on a topic
to me of great interest, as he had been one of a party
■which, about a year previous to my visit, had ascended the
river Santa Cruz to its source. The expedition was organised
by an American well acquainted with the Californian mining,
who proposed to explore the mineral resources of the valley.
Unfortunately, during the ascent of the river, a quai-rel broke
out, and the American left the others, and found his way
alone to the Indians, thence returning to Santa Cruz. The
loss of the only man capable of scientific observation rendered
their journey almost useless ; still the party pro3eeded, and
about midsummer reached the lake, near which they re-
mained some days, but were unable to penetrate the thick
forests beyond its shores. In the valley they found meat tins
and other traces of Fitzroj^'s expedition. El Cooke described
the river as running from the lake in many small streams,
and flowing over a rocky bed. The lake, which was covered
with wild fowl, had floating ice upon it, and large glaciers
were visible in the neighbouring mountains, while the weather
experienced was cold, with continuous drizzling rain. His
account confirmed my own conjectures as to the cause of the
great difi'erence between the periods of the highest floods in
the Rio Gallegos, which is at its height in December and
January, and the Santa Cruz, which is then at its lowest.
This is owing to the lateness of the period at which the ice
breaks up in the lake Viedma, situated, as it probably is, on
a high plateau. About the lake the explorers found traces of
herds of large deer, and always in close proximity those of
a large fox or wolf, but they did not succeed in killing any.
A specimen of the only mineral brought back appeared to be
iron pyrites embedded in quartz. The journey from the lake
to the settlement would require eleven days for baggage
horses, but could be performed by horsemen within four. Of
course the information was not too clear or reliable, but El
Cooke, though not brilliant, seemed to possess the Northern
quality of telling the truth, by the absence of which the
Cii. II.] WINTEE OCCUPATIONS. 43
Soiitliern and Indian natures are, to say the least of it, often
characterised. El Cooke was fond of hard work, and his
greatest enjoyment was to set out in search of fuel, and lay
on with his axe in a way that would have done honour to a
Canadian lumberer, but was sadly thrown away on the in-
cense bushes of Santa Cruz.
All these men, who had drifted together from various
quarters, and, if truth be told, had all 'run,' for obvious
reasons, from their own homes, worked by turns at hunting,
trading, sealing, and raising salt from the Salina. They
received a fixed salary, which, however, generally proved to
be balanced by an account with the store for clothes, &c. In
sealing expeditious all went shares, like our own mackerel
and herring fishermen ; while for working at the Salina,
extra pay was given and well earned, especially at this time,
since it involved sleeping out in the open for several suc-
cessive nights, and that in a Patagonian May. Such were
the companions of my residence at Pabon, besides whom
more than a score of dogs of all sorts slept anj^how and
anywhere, and followed anybody, giving their masters the
preference.
A short time after our arrival, Mr. Clarke took stock of the
stores of provision, which could not be replenished until the
return of the schooner. The result was that the amount of
biscuits and sugar was found to be about equal to a month's
consumption. These articles were accordingly divided into
equal portions, and each man received his share, to husband
or improvidently use, according to his bent. There was
abundance of coflPee, black beans, tobacco, and maize, which
accordingly were used at discretion. The next thing was to
accumulate a good stock of fuel before the snow should render
it difficult, if not impossible, to transport it.
Every Sunday all hands except one — the cook of the week
— left on guard, went hunting, and, as occasion required,
during the week, the gauchos would proceed to supply the
larder with guanaco or ostrich, the latter being, however,
rare. Idleness was unknown ; when not hunting, wood-
cutting, or salt-raising, manufactures were the order of the
44 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. II.
day. We picked stones and worked them round for bolas,
and covered them with the hide stripped from the hock of
the guanaco, the soga or thong connecting the balls being
made from the skin of the neck, the method of obtaining it
being as follows : — The head having been cut ofP, and an
incision made just above the shoulder, the skin is dragged
off in one piece ; and after the wool has been picked off, is
softened by hand and carefully cut into strips, which are closely
plaited. Of this leather we also made serviceable bridles,
lazos, stirrup-leathers, and, in fact, horse-gear generally.
Sometimes we would have a fit of making pipes, and all
hands would be busy sawing out wood or hard at work boring
the bowls ; at others, sj)urs were the rage, made by the
simple Indian method of sticking sharpened nails into two
pieces of wood, secured together by thongs fastened under
the foot and round the leg ; or again, we would work silver,
and come out with our knife-sheaths glittering with studs.
On non-hunting days, I invariably practised the use of the
bolas, and caught almost every shrub on the island.
The evenings were passed in playing the American game
of brag. Cash being unknown, and no one being disposed to
risk the loss of his gear, the stakes were simply so many
black beans to a box of matches ; and as much excitement
prevailed as if each bean or perota had been a five-dollar
piece.
Both in our hunting parties and in the house which he
had been allowed to occupy, though he occasionally visited
the camp on the Chico, I sedulously cultivated the acquaint-
ance of Casimiro. Both the missionaries and Her Majesty's
surveyors have made frequent, and often by no means
honourable, mention of this Indian, who has always evinced
a wish to conciliate the friendship of the English visitors to
Patagonia. His history, as I learned it from himself, was a
very curious one, and aptly illustrates the conflicting claims
of Chilians and Argentines, and the confused politics of the
Indians themselves, his father having been killed in an
engagement with the Araucanian or Manzaneros Indians.
His mother was a Tehuelche : being an inveterate drunkard.
Ch. II.] CASIMIROS ADVENTURES. 45
whilst visiting the settlements of Eio Negro she bartered the
child for a cask of rum to the governor of the fort, a French-
man named Viba, who was connected with the slave-trade,
for at that period Indians seem to have been made slaves of
as well as blacks. Viba had Casimiro christened — whence
his name Casimiro Viba — and brought up at the Estancia, or
sheep-farm, where he learnt to speak Spanish fiuentl3^
When thirteen years old he ran away and rejoined the
Tehuelches Indians, with whom he remained in obscurity for
some years, until being in the Southern district, near the
Chilian colony of Port Famine, he gained the friendship of
one Santorin, a native of Patagoues, who had been taken
captive by the Indians, but having adopted their manners
and customs, and marrying one of the tribe, had risen to the
position of a chief. Together these two performed a voyage
to Chili, to negotiate with the Government in some matters
regarding the protection of Port Famine from Indian raids.
Santorin died during the voyage, but Casimiro was well
received at Santiago by the then President, Sefior Bulnes,'
loaded with honours, and given the rank, pay, and rations of
captain in the army. He then returned to Port Famine,
where he resided, off and on, for some time. By his own
account, he was absent on a hunting excursion when the
emeute took place which resulted in the destruction of the
colony. The old wandering habits appeared to have taken
possession of him, for he subsequently returned to the Rio
Negro, and having entered the service of the Buenos Ayrean
Government, again proceeded to the South. During this
time he resided occasionally with the missionaries, during
their journey in the South, and at their station at Santa Cruz,
and entrusted to them his two sons for the purpose of educa-
tion. The missionaries soon discovered that his objects
were purely selfish, and that he had no idea of allowing
others to participate in the advanta ges they could offer ; and
I am afraid that the labour and cost bestowed on the boys
were thrown away, as neither of them appeared to have pro-
fited much by theu- chances. Sam, indeed, could still sing a
' Casimiro gavp the niiinc as ' Eournc'
46 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
hymn if tliere were grog to the fore, and had a lively recol-
lection of material advantages, often saying, ' He was good
man, give me gun,' &c. But the youngest, ' Graviel,' who
also understood a little English, was one of the laziest of the
lazy, and had very undefined notions as to meum and tuum,
as personal experience taught me.
In 1865 Casimiro made a voyage to Buenos Ayres, where
the Government on this occasion recognised him as head
chief of the Tehuelches, and assigned him the rank and pay
of Lieut. -Colonel in the Argentine Army. He was then
despatched, in company with an Argentine named Mendoza,
to form a settlement at Gregorio Bay. They travelled by
land as far as Santa Cruz, at which place Mendoza dis-
appeared, being supposed to have lost himself, but in reality
having been killed by an Indian, jealousy bemg, I believe,
the cause of the murder. With his right-hand man gone,
Casimiro abandoned himself to drinking, a habit which, as
Mr. Cunningham mentions, he had before acquired — perhaps
by hereditary development — and ultimately became reduced
to the state of poverty in which I found him, owning but
two horses for himself, his wife, daughter, and son, with
hardly any gear. Indeed, he would have been reduced to
gTcat straits but for the kindness of Don Luiz and Mr.
Clarke, who, for old acquaintance sake, helped him as much
as possible ; though his habitual drunkenness made it useless
to give him anything valuable whilst there was liquor to be
had, as he would exchange anything for drink. As it was
my object to have a friend in camp, I made friends with
him, and tried to induce him to go north to the Rio Negro,
which he at length agreed to do, although he was in great
fear of getting into trouble about the loss or death of
Mendoza. This man when sober was quick and intelligent,
and a shrewd politician. His extensive connections by
marriage with all the chiefs, including Rouke and Calficura,
gave him considerable influence. He was also an expert
worker in various Indian arts, such as making saddles, pipes,
spurs, lazos, and other gear. He was a powerfully built
man, standing fully six feet in his potro boots, with a not
Ch. II.] A WINTER HUNTING EXCURSION. 47
unpleasing expression of face, althougli he had a scar or
two which did not add to his beauty. Of his personal
bravery ample proof will afterwards be given ; but, like aU
drunkards, he was uncertain and not to be depended on.
This veritable old Blue Beard informed me that he had
been married six times ; certainly, if all his wives were of
the appearance and disposition of his last venture, it is not
to be wondered at if he disposed of the former ones ; for an
uglier, dirtier, more contumacious old hag never burdened
the earth with her weight, owing probably to which latter
quality, or quantity, she never, if she could possibly help it,
quitted her room. Early in June an Indian, known in
Santa Cruz as El Sourdo, or the left-handed man, came
across the river and pitched his toldo on the island. He
was the husband of two wives, who lived together in perfect
felicity and took care of one another's children. This Indian
was, as most of them are, very ingenious in working wood
and silver, and was a good addition to our hunting parties ;
he also quickly learned to play at brag. Casimiro would
never descend from his lofty pinnacle of self-importance so
far as to enter the kitchen when the general revels were
held, but occasionally joined Mr. Clarke and myself at supper
and sat telling stories for an hour or two.
The sketch of our life at Pabon would be very incomplete
without asking the reader to accompany us on a hunting
excursion ; so I will describe one which took place after
El Sourdo had arrived on the island. Game had become
very scarce in our immediate vicinity, and our only farina-
ceous food was black beans varied by maize, which was too
troublesome in the preparation to be much used. The meat
went wonderfully quickly, so we determined to extend the
s]Dhere of the hunting a little more a-field. Accordingly, one
fine frosty morning at daylight, the horses were brought uj),
caught, and saddled ; mantles and spurs donned, and eight of
us, including the two Indians, Casimiro and El Sourdo, set off
to make a circle, i.e. enclose and drive an area of land on
the southern shore of the river, finishing at the Missionaries'
48 AT H03IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
Valley. Casimiro and Gonzalez accordingly started, and the
remainder followed in turn. During our drive down, one
guanaco was captured by El Sourdo and Isidoro, and on
our arrival near the valley of Los Misionarios I chased a
guanaco, but, being without dogs and a t3rro with the bolas,
failed to capture him. However, on rejoining my com-
panions, who had now finished the circle, I found that they
had only killed one ostrich, which, through the carelessness
of some of the party, the dogs had mauled to such an extent
as to render the greater part of the meat unserviceable.
The day had been unusually warm, without any wind.
Though a bank of white clouds on the horizon seemed to
threaten snow, it was agreed to camp out and tr}-- our chance
of getting a good supply of meat on the following day ; so we
proceeded to a sheltered place in the valley, and bivouacked
under the lee of a big incense bush, while the horses were
turned loose, and a fire was made, on which the remains of the
ostrich were soon cooking under the master hand of Casimiro.
After supper, which was rather stinted in quantit}-, we
smoked a pipe and lay down to sleep. About three I woke
up, feeling, as I thought, a heavy weight pressing on my
mantle, and found that above two inches of snow had fallen
and that it was still snowing. At daylight it came on to
rain, but quickly changed to snow again ; so we made a fire
and waited for an hour to see if the weather would clear.
At last, on a gleam of sickly sunshine appearing, we pro-
ceeded to arrange the circle, Casimiro starting first. Emerging
from the valley and ascending to the high pampa, we met a
terrific gale of wind from the south, driving before it small
snow in freezing blasts ; but two ostriches jumped up from
behind a bush, and Mr. Clarke balled one of them with great
dexterity. This was very cheering, as we were all very
hungry. But, as it was impossible to face the driving sleet
and wind, which prevented us from seeing ten yards before
us, we adjourned to the valley, leaving Casimiro, who was
not visible, to his own pursuits. Suddenly El Sourdo
discovered smoke behind a clump of trees, and, to our
great delight, there was our friend before a good fire, nicely
Ch. II.] THE SANTA CRUZ VALLEY. 49
sheltered from snow and wind, within an arbour neatly cut
out of a busli. We adjourned to the fire and had breakfast ;
invigorated by which, and encouraged by a lull in the storm,
we started off to renew the chase, but soon got separated by
the thick snow-storm. Mr. Clarke, El Sourdo, Gonzalez,
and myself, who were together, came close upon a herd of
guanaco, making for the coast to escape the gale. The dogs
gave chase and killed some, others were balled ; in fact a
regular slaughter took place, and eight or ten carcases were
soon lying on the plain. Now came the tedious job of
cutting up. I found myself standing alone by a dead
guanaco, none of the others being visible, though not
fifty yards distant. I proceeded as best I could to
arrange the meat, and was about half through the task,
with fingers nearly frozen, when I discovered Mr. Clarke
and El Sourdo, and shortly after it cleared up, and the
remainder of our party, all loaded with meat, arrived. Thus
supplied, we turned our faces homewards, and arrived at
Santa Cruz a little before sundown, where a steaming kettle
of coffee soon dispelled our cold and put us into good spirits.
Mr. Darwin and Admiral Fitzroy have thoroughly de-
scribed the configuration of the Valley of Santa Cruz and its
surroundings, so that a lengthened attempt to portray it is
not necessary. I would particularly refer the reader to the
accurate and picturesque description by the former of the
bench formation which causes the western part of the envi-
rons of the river to present the appearance of the shores of
former successive estuaries — of a vast river or fiord.
Near the settlement the ascent of the Southern Barranca
immediately leads to a level plain extending for the space of
a couple of miles ; then there is another rise of perhaps fifty
feet, and another plain, which extends for about the space of
a league to a range of successive ridges, which we called the
Blue Hills from their peculiar appearance on clear days.
These, eastwards, lose their elevations, and merge into the
undulations of the high Pampa and a rolling cheerless
waste of stones, coarse grass, and incense bushes ; its uneven
surface often traversed by ravines running in various direc-
£
50 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
tions. Amongst these hills there is a large lagoon which
Casimiro informed me he used to visit whilst residing with
the missionaries for the purpose of procuring wild fowl, of
which there were then great numbers, but they had latterly-
given up this resort. There are other lagoons scattered at
intervals in the before-mentioned plains, which, during the
winter, were frozen, and the beautifully smooth ice often
caused Mr. Clarke and myself to long for a pair of skates ;
indeed, we tried to manufacture a pair, but without success.
Towards the sea coast from the Blue Hills the slope
appears gradual, until nearing the coast, when the plain is
intersected by gullies and deep fertile valleys, which render
hunting very tedious work, as it is necessary to trust
almost entirely to the dogs. Game abounds in this direc-
tion, especially during the winter. We made numerous ex-
cursions up river, generally staying away from the settle-
ment three or four days, our favourite rendezvous being a
place about sixty miles distant, called ' Chickrookaik,'
marked by Fitzroy as an Indian Ford or Pass of the river
Santa Cruz, which statement both El Sovirdo and Casi-
miro confirmed. At this point the river narrows consider-
ably, and on the south side there are steep cliffs almost over-
hanging the water, a cave in which cliffs was always a sure
find for a puma. Both above and below this point are large
wide plains extending from the ' banks ' or cliffs to the river,
which may easily be encircled ; and the game being hemmed
in between the horsemen and the river are readily captured.
Sometimes the ostriches take to the water, but in the winter
this saves trouble, as their legs get frozen, and on landing
they are unable to move. We made an excursion on one
occasion somfe miles higher up the river, and found abundance
of game. We had previously on our road had good luck,
but, as is often the custom, left the slain animals concealed
in bushes, with a poncho or something over them. Durino-
the interval of our absence severe weather set in, and on
returning to examine our caches the foxes and birds of prey
had accounted for the meat. The foxes are a great trouble
to the hunters, as, frequently, whilst they are encircling the
Cu. II. J TnE NOETHERN HILLS. 51
herds of guanaco, and taking the greatest care to keep out
of sight, one of these brutes will jump up, the dogs give
chase, and then good-bye to all chance of sport. Fitzroy
remarked the number of guanaco bones found in his ascent
of the river Santa Cruz, which appear to have puzzled him,
but the cause is not far to seek. During the very severe
winters which occur I believe about once in three years,
these animals, finding no pasture on the high lands, which
are covered with snow, are necessarily driven down to the
plains fringing the river, where they die from starvation.
There is also a disease prevalent amongst them something
similar to scab in sheep. On one occasion a hunting party
killed ten guanacos, all of which were scabby, or, as we called
it, ' sanoso ; ' and, consequently, unfit for food. Mr. Clarke
told me that after one severe winter he found ostriches
lying in heaps, dead under the bushes, and also guanacos.
The difficulty of getting the horses across the swift and deep
stream,, with its banks encumbered by ice, prevented us from
making frequent excursions to the northern side of the
river. A level plain extends from the banks for about a mile,
bounded by a chain of irregular hills ; near the foot of these
I picked up many specimens of a spiral shell, apparently a
Turritella, which appeared to have been vitrified ; and some
were as translucent as glass, and of different colours. Beyond
these hills rolled a succession of uneven plains diversified by
ridges and hills ; the general slope of the ground being
apparently from west to east, and the hills towards the west
often assumed the form of abrupt lofty clifi's. Near a
laguna at the foot of a cliff a hundred feet high I found
boulders incrusted with sulphate of iron, such as had been
pointed out to me in the Falklands, and numerous oyster
shells and other marine shells occurred in various localities.
There are no streams, but frequent lagoons in the hollows,
and surrounded by a luxuriant growth of incense bushes.
The unbroken plains abound in round thistle, califate, and
the curious shrub called ' ratstail,' from the appearance of its
twigs when the thick bark is pulled off. When burned it
emits a dense black resinous smoke. To the north the hori-
E 2
BOSTON UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF LIBERAL ARTS
52 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
zon is bounded by a lofty range of hills which form the
barrier of the valley of the Rio Chico, about sixty miles
distant. These northern hills abounded with puma, some of
which, killed in our hunts, were of unusual size, measuring
fully six feet exclusive of the tail, which is generally
half the length of the body. They are, of course, most
numerous where the herds of guanaco and the ostriches
abound ; in the southern part of Patagonia their colour is
more of a greyish-brown than that of the species found in
the Argentine Provinces. These ' Leones,' as they are
universally called in South America, always appeared to me
to be the most cat-like of all the felidse. They are very
timid, always running from a man on horseback, and, by
day at least, from a pedestrian ; they run for a short distance
in a series of long bounds, at great speed, but soon tire and
stand at bay behind or in the midst of a bush, and sitting
upon their haunches, spit and swear just like a monstrous
tabby ; sometimes endeavouring to scratch with their formi-
dable claws, but rarely springing at the pursuer. Mr.
Clarke on one occasion had his mantle torn off in this
manner. At another time, when hunting in the vicinity of
Santa Cruz, I observed from a distance Gonzalez hacking
with his knife at a big incense bush, and, on reaching the spot,
found him occupied in clearing away branches to allow him
to knock a huge puma on the head with his bolas. He was
dismounted and attended by his dogs, which bayed the animal.
Still, had the puma not been a cur, he could doubtless have
sprung out and killed or severely wounded the gaucho.
The Indians afl&rm that the puma will attack a single man
alone and on foot, and, indeed, subsequently, an example of
this came under my notice ; however, if a person should be
benighted or lost, he has only to take the precaution of
lighting a fire, which these animals will never approach.
They are most savage in the early part of the spring or breed-
ing season, when, according to my experience, they are found
roaming over the country in an unsettled manner ; they are
then also thinner than at other times, but, like the wild
horse, they are generally pretty fat at all times of the year.
Ch. II.] DEVIL'S EYES. 53
The females I saw were sometimes accompanied by two cubs,
but never more. The meat of the puma resembles pork, and
is g-ood eating, though better boiled than roasted, but one or
two Indians of my acquaintance would not touch the meat.
The hide is useful either for saddle-cloths or to make
mantles of; and owing to its greasy nature it can be soft-
ened with less trouble than that of the guanaco. In Santa
Cruz one of the men had a pair of trousers made of lion's
skin, which worn with the hair side out was impervious to
wet. From the hock and lower part of the hind legs boots
may be constructed similar to those made from horse hide,
and in common use amongst the Indians and also the
gauchos of Plata. These, however, are only made from
pumas of large size, and they wear out very quickly. To
kill a puma with a gun is rather a difficult matter, as, unless
the ball enters his skull, or strikes near, the region of the
heart, he has as many lives as his relation the cat. I once
put three revolver bullets into one, and ultimately had
recourse to the bolas as a more effective weapon. When
wounded they become very savage, but they are at all times
bad customers for dogs, which they maul in a shocking
manner. The Indian dogs are trained to stand off and bay
them, keeping out of range of the claws ; nevertheless they not
unfrequently get killed. Perhaps the simplest way of taking
the pumas is to throw a lazo over them, as directly they
feel the noose they lie down as if dead, and are easily des-
patched. I was particularly struck, as are all hunters, with
their eyes, large, brown, and beautifully bright, but with a
fierce glare that does not appeal to any feelings of compas-
sion. I shall never forget the expression in the eyes of one
puma, best described by the remark made by one of the
Indians as he reined back his horse, expecting a spring :
' Mira los ojos del diablo ! ' (' Look, what devil's eyes ! ')
One expedition on the northern shore was long remem-
bered and talked of over the fire ; and, indeed, might easily
have had a very disastrous conclusion.
Towards the latter end of July I proposed to Mr. Clarke
that we should proceed on foot, and investigate more closely
5-i AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
tlie bed of fossil sliells mentioned as situated on the hills
about a mile from the north bank of the river. Accordingly,
one morning we prepared to cross the river, and the re-
mainder of the men, hearing of our intentions, volunteered,
together with El Sourdo, to accompany us, and, after having
visited the hills, to organise a hunting circle on foot : we
started about sunrise and crossed the river to the north side,
where we secured the boat above high- water mark; we then
all proceeded to the hills, investigated the beds of fossil
shells, and gathered many beautiful specimens. The hunt
was then formed, so many dogs being apportioned to each
person, and the circle being directed to close on a point on
the bank of the river about three or four miles west of the
settlement. The ground was very favourable for our opera-
tions, as the dips, or slightly-depressed valleys, hid us from
the view of the game. On emerging on the plain at different
points we saw several guanacos and some ostriches ; and those
nearest them slipped their hounds, following on foot at their
topmost speed. Mr. Clarke, Isidoro, El Sourdo, and myself
were in the centre, and killed amongst us two guanacos and
an ostrich. Antonio, who was pointsman, disappeared to the
westward with El Cooke, following their dogs in full chase
of a herd of guanacos. Our party lit a fire, ate the ostrich,
and conveyed what meat we thought advisable to take back
with us towards the boat, following the river bank, which
was strewn in many places with cornelians and flint-agates,
and occasionally with fossilised shells. On our arrival a,t the
boat we launched her down the beach, and, as the wind had
by this time risen to a severe gale and the tide was rapidly
ebbing, watched anxiously for the return of the two de-
faulters ; for the navigation of the river is at no time very
easy, and when the tide is low, even in daylight, nearly
impracticable. At length, after dark, when the squalls of
bitterly-cold wind had become very violent, we saw fires in
the distance, and, almost half an hour afterwards, our missing
men appeared, each with a load of meat on his shoulders.
They arrived considerably exhausted, so we gave them a
rest, and then dogs and all got into the boat and we shoved
Ch. II.] INTENSE COLD.
Oo
off, Mr. Clarke steering. We proceeded all riglit for a few
yards, and then stuck on a bank ; after several ineffectual
efforts to shove the boat off, we a.11 jumped into the water
and fairly hove her over the bank until the water was up
nearly to our shoulders, and then got in and pulled across.
Owing to the violence of the wind and the strength of the
current, we only succeeded in landing fully three-quarters
of a mile from the house ; here we secured the boat, and ran
up as fast as we could to get our now frozen clothes off and
a drink of hot coffee. We all agreed that on another expe-
dition it would be advisable either to encamp on the northern
shore until daylight, or come back early enough to be able
to get across while it was possible to see the banks. But
the general conclusion was, not to go again at all.
The weather in July was intensely cold, the lowest reading
of the thermometer, which was duly examined every morn-
ing, being 8°. Washing our clothes became impossible, as
during the process the water froze and the garments became
stiff as boards. When crossing the ford, if the potro boots
of the rider happened, as was not unfrequently the case, to
get filled with water, in a few minutes not only were the
boots coated with ice, but the inside resembled an ice-pail.
The effect of the river ice piled up on the shore by the tides
was very striking. Huge floes had accumulated to the height
of fifteen feet and upwards, and, besides rendering the passage
difficult, had buried the carefully-stacked wood-pile under
a small mountain of ice. This was in the comparatively
sheltered valley. On the Pampas, when the ^erce south
wind blew, as it almost invariably did, it seemed impossible
to face it and live. One attempt made nearly resulted in*
Gonzalez being overcome by the sleep which is a forerunner
of death, and the horses of all the party absolutely could iiot
advance. The snow lay eighteen inches deep, and we had
flattered ourselves that the guanaco and ostrich would prove
an easy prey. They could not run — but we could not chase,
and were thankful to make our way, slowly and laboriously,
down from the desolate and storm-swept Pampas.
The Indians from the Eio Chico occasionally visited us,
5Q AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
and Orkeke's objections to my company were gradually giving
way. He had probably feared that an English Seiior would
require a considerable amount of attention, and give constant
trouble ; but during our intercourse he found that the stranger
could (and did) groom his own horse, and wait on himself
generally, as well as take his part in whatever was being
done, even to sleeping out with no shelter but the ample
guanaco mantle. Casimiro also, according to promise, visited
the camp, and argued in my favour, finally obtaining from
the chief a somewhat reluctant permission for me to join his
party. Towards the end of July some of his Indians had
come to the settlement to inform us that the scarcity of game
in their vicinity had compelled them to shift their quarters
to a place higher up the Rio Chico. They anxiously enquired
if the schooner had arrived ; we were as eagerly looking for
her, but day after day passed, and the looked-for boat did not
appear.
On the ■^24th of July everybody had gone hunting, except
Juan Chileno (who was cook for the week), and myself,
whom a hurt received in my foot had compelled to remain
quiet. I was employed reading a book, * Charles Dashwood,'
for perhaps the twentieth time, when Juan came in to say
that the hunting party had returned. As it was only ten
o'clock, my first idea was that the schooner had arrived with
Don Luiz. However, this was dispelled by Juan, who had
gone out to reconnoitre, rushing in with the news that ten
Chilians had arrived on the south side with twenty-one horses.
Shortly afterwards Mr. Clarke himself came in and cor-
roborated the intelligence. These men proved to be deserters,
'who had escaped by night from Punta Arena, taking with
them nearly all the horses in the corral. They had left on
the 2nd of July at 2 a.m. Four of the number were those
previously recaptured in Santa Cruz, who had been kept in
irons and closely confined at night ; but by a supreme effort
they had broken their chains, and, together with the others
who had everything arranged outside the cuartel, had effected
their escape. The sufferings these men must have under-
gone during the twenty-two days' journey over the Pampas,
Cii. II.] VISIT TO THE INDIAN CAMP. 57
exposed without shelter to the fierce winds, and sometimes
with the snow up to their horses' girths, must have been
something frightful, and many of them were frost bitten.
It was out of the question for us to receive them, as our own
supplies were failing, and in truth we congratulated our-
selves on the horses being secured in the corral, and anxiously-
watched the movements of the new comers. The party
during the afternoon succeeded in crossing the river to the
north side, swimming their horses ; and disappeared in the
direction of the Rio Chico.
By this time even the kind companionship of Mr. Clarke
failed to reconcile me to the tedious monotony of our life.
The game also became scarcer and scarcer, and the chance of
the schooner's coming a|)peared so indefinite, that at the be-
ginning of August I began to think it would be better and
more amusing to migrate to the Indian camp, where, at any
rate, plenty of meat was procurable. Accordingly, when the
Indians came over again on a visit on the 7th of August, I
bought a horse, or rather changed away a revolver for one (a
three year old, newly broken), and started in company with
Orkeke, Campan, Cayuke, and Tankelow, four Indians, all of
whom were previous acquaintances. Casimiro followed with
his family, taking one of the horses from Santa Cruz to assist
in the transport of his household. This horse was one I had
been accustomed to ride in Santa Cruz, and on arriving at
the Indian camp was lent me as a second horse. Shortly
after passing the first hills on the northern side, our party
not being burdened with women and children, started off at
a hand canter, which was kept up until a puma suddenly
sprang out of a bush, when chase was immediately given ; he,
however, got into a thick tangle of incense bushes, from
which we tried in "vain to dislodge him, and although pelted
with stones he lay there spitting like a great cat. Cayuke
wished to fire the bush, but Orkeke would not waste time, so
we mounted and proceeded on our journey. We continued
riding over plains and ridges until about 4 p.m., when we
reached a large laguna, close to which grew some high coarse
grass and shrubs; here several ostriches were started, and
58 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
one killed by Orkeke. On reaching the range of hills before
described as the southern barrier of the valley of the Rio
Chico, we halted, and shortly had the ostrich cooking on a
good fire. We looked back for Casirairo, but could not see
him, so after supper and a smoke pursued our journey by
the soft light of a young moon. As I pointed it out to my
companions they all saluted it by putting their hands to their
heads, at the same time muttering some unintelligible words.
This reminded me of the English custom of turning money at
first seeing the new moon. We rode on until about 9 p.m.,
when we reached the Indian encampment. We had been
previously puzzled by seeing fires burning a considerable dis-
tance up the valley, and found that our chief, Camillo, had
already marched in that direction. One of the first persons
who accosted me was Arica, and I shortly discovered that
all the Chilians were installed with the Indians in different
toldos, which was rather an unpleasant surprise. I was
ushered into Orkeke's toldo with due ceremony, and we took
our seats by the fire. I had brought a bag of coffee with
me, so we set to work and roasted some, after which one of
the Chilians was given the task cf pounding it between
stones, and we all drank what the Indians not inappro-
priately term 'potwater.' Many Indians crowded in to have
a look at us, and amongst others that I noticed was a re-
markably pretty little girl of about thirteen years of age,
a niece of Orkeke's, who took some coffee when offered in a
shy and bashful manner which was delightful to contemplate.
In due time we all retired to rest, and a little before daylight
I was woke up by the melodious singing of an Indian in
the next toldo. Shortly afterwards Orkeke went out and
harangued the inmates of the remaining toldos, and presently
the horses were brought up, and most of the men started for
the chase. Snow had fallen during the night, a biting cold
wind was blowing, and Orkeke told me there were very few
animals about. I took this as a hint not to ask for a horse,
so contented myself with sauntering round and examining
the encampment. Some of the men were playing cards, one
or two sleeping, whilst the women were almost universally
Cii. II.] TOWING A HOESE. 59
employed iu sewing guanaeo mantles. About 3 p.m. Casimiro
arrived with his family, and proceeded to the tent of a
southern Indian, named Crime, and shortly afterwards the
hunting party returned by twos and threes, but the chase
had not been attended with much success. We passed the
evening pleasantly enough, making acquaintance with each
other, and Keoken, the little girl, instructed me in the Indian
names of the various objects about the place. Next morning
the order was suddenly given to march. As this was totally
unexpected, and I was not prepared for departure, I made up
my mind to return at once to Santa Cruz, and fetch my
clothes and other small articles ; also to take back a colt,
promised by an Indian called ' Tchang ' to Mr. Clarke. After
some little difficult}^, as the Indians did not wish me to go
alone for fear of getting lost, or any other mischance befalling
me, Graviel, the youngest son of Casimiro, started with me.
We had to take the colt, what a sailor would term, in tow,
that is, drag it for some distance with a lazo. As Graviel's
horse was shy, this work fell to my share. Shortly after the
start, rain, or rather sleet, came on, and the contrariness of
the brute at the end of the lazo claiming all my attention, I
could not manage to keep my mantle tight round my shoulders,
and getting thoroughly wet, and losing one of my knives,
cursed Tchang, colt and all, freely. After a short time, how-
ever, when weU out of sight of the Indians, I cast off the
towing line, and we drove our ' bete noire ' before us. We
returned by a different route to the one travelled on the out-
ward journey, guided a good deal by my pocket compass.
Towards nightfall, deceived by the appearance of a hill, I
flattered myself that we were near Santa Cruz. But, alas !
it was still miles away, and we got into fresh difficulties with
our charge, which, being tired, absolutely refused to go down
the hill, and had to be taken * in tow ' again and dragged
along, and it must have been nine or ten before we reached
the banks of the river. Here, after unsaddling our horses,
we vainly attempted to kindle a fire, but everything, like
ourselves, was so saturated with snow and wet that all
. attempts were fruitless ; so, fairly tired out, and without fire
60 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. II.
or supper, we laid down under a busli, and, ensconced under
our mantles, were soon in tlie land of dreams.
Next morning- Graviel acted like a dutiful boy for once in
liis life, and left in search of the horses. Meanwhile the boat
came over, and I was anxious to expedite matters ; so, after
splashing barefooted through several yards of sharp-edged
ice on my way to the boat, which had grounded some dis-
tance from the shore, I got over to the island, where I was
not sorry to get something to eat and a fire to warm my
frozen limbs. I packed up my few things, ready for a start
later on ; but when the flood- tide made, a heavy gale of
wind sprang up, and it was with great difficulty that the
boat could bring over Graviel and the colt. The cheerful
news also awaited me that my horse was missing, and that
Graviel and El Cooke had seen a large puma on the river
bank, which had probably watched in close proximity to us
whilst sleeping the night before. Owing to the gale, it was
impossible to cross that evening, so we made up our minds to
stop and sleep on the island.
Next day, my horse not appearing, Mr. Clarke lent me
one, sending Isidoro to bring the horse back, in the event of
our not meeting with the missing steed. About 4 p. m. I bid
adieu to my friend, whose kindness during my stay had
proved him a friend indeed. Having shaken hands with the
remainder of the boys, who one and all heartily wished me
luck, we started ; and after vainly searching for the missing
horse, rode on till about 10 p.m., when we halted and
bivouacked by the side of a laguna. Next morning early we
arrived at the E,io Chico, which we crossed on the ice, and
about 2 p. M. reached the toldos. The men were away hunt-
ing, the smoke of their fires being visible, rising from the
higher plains to the northward. As we had eaten nothing
since our supper the night before, which was furnished by a
small skunk (which, though very palatable, was unfortunately
very thin), we were in urgent need of something to eat, and
Arica hastened to cook some guanaco meat on the asador or
iron spit.
When the hunters arrived, Orkeke gruffly asked Isidoro
Ch. II.] OEKEKE'S TOLDO. 61
what he had come for, and seemed, naturally enough, the
reverse of pleased at the information of the loss of his horse ;
and, altogether, the old chief's behaviour did not seem
auspicious ; but, without appearing to notice it, I made
myself at home in the toldo, and took up my quarters as one
of the family.
62 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
CHAPTEE III.
THE EIO CHICO.
Breaking up of the Camp. — An Idle Day. — A Rasli Start. — A Dilemma.
— Alone on the Pampa. — Heunion. — The Kaii or Toldo. — The Domestic
Interior. — ^The Indian Tribes. — Three Races. — Order of the March. —
The Hunt. — IndianGame Law, — Tehuelche Cookery. — Basaltic Hills. —
An Indian Festival. — My First Tehuelche Ball. — Mrs. Orkeke's Spill.
— Fording Rio Chico. — A Battle. — Death of Cuastro. — Dangerous
Times. — Chilian Conspiracy. — Obsidian Plain and Pass. — First Ostrich
Eggs. — Amakaken. — -Lifting the Boulder. — The Devil's Country. —
God's Hill. — Condors and Dinner. — Sunrise on the Cordillera. — The
Plague Herald. — Gelgel Aik. — Escape from Matrimony. — T^le. — Eyes
of the Desert. — Preparations for War. — Another Fight. — Water Tigers.
— Indian Bravoes.— Iron Ores. — Ship Rock. — Perch Fishing. — Appley-
kaik. — Casimiro's Escape.— Ai-rival at Henno.
The morning after we had rejoined tlie Indian camp was
marked by a general breaking np of the party. Camillo and
some others had abeady left, and by this time were several
marches in advance ; Orkeke and Isidoro started off to Santa
Cruz, in search of the lost horse, and charged with some
little commissions for me. Finally, Casimiro and all the rest
broke up their encampment and started, intending to over-
take Camillo. Before leaving, Casimiro came to me, and
affecting great interest in my welfare, confidentially urged
me to accompany himself and live as an inmate of his (or
rather Crime's) toldo, adding that he had been informed that
Orkeke had no real intention of marching northward, but
designed to keep me in his toldo until, by some means or
other, he could possess himself of my arms and ammunition.
As I saw no reason to believe this story, I declined to comply
with the proposal of Casimiro, who, having consoled himself
by begging a Httle coffee, took his departure, and the en-
Ch. III.J AN IDLE DAY. 63
campment was reduced to tlie toldo, of whicli 1 was to con-
sider myself an inmate, and another, belonging to the only
Indians who remained — Tankelow, Orkeke's brother, and his
son, a youth of about eighteen. Besides these, there were
three of the Chilian deserters who as narrated had escaj)ed
from Punta Arena; one was attached to the household of
Tankelow, and the other two to that of Orkeke. One of these
was Arica, already mentioned, who being a very clever worker
in hide, had employed himself in adorning saddles and
bridles for the Indians, by which he had acquired a pretty
good stock of gear. The condition of all three was, however,
not enviable. They had lowered themselves at first by volun-
teering to discharge the drudgery of fetching wood and water,
and by this time were little better than slaves, obliged to
perform the menial offices, which before had been the task of
the women. These fair creatures, headed by Mrs. Orkeke —
a young woman almost six feet in height, and disj)laying a
corresponding breadth across the shoulders — employed them-
selves in cutting out and sewing guanaco mantles, weaving
fillets for the head, and chattering. Tankelow and his son
presently started for a hunt; but as I was not offered a
mount, and deemed it more reasonable to give my only
charger a good rest and feed, I could only accompany them
to the river, the frozen surface of which they crossed, and
disappeared up a canon that led up the Barranca, on the
northern limit of the valley, to tlie Upper Pampa. Having
wistfully watched them, I reconnoitred the vallej^ of the Eio
Chico. Behind me, to the south-east, the river wound
through plains covered with withered coarse grass, some
eighteen inches high, extending on either bank for several
miles till terminated by the rising barranca. Snow lay here
and there in patches on some of the higher ground, and
increased the dreariness of the prospect. About two leagues
below the river divided into two branches, which reunited
beyond an island of some extent. Looking up river in a
north-westerly direction, the valley soon narrowed in, the
southern barranca sloping down to within a couple of miles
of our camp ; and the view was closed by two remarkable
64 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
liills resembling fortresses, which seemed to stand on guard on
either side. I made a slight sketch of the outlines of the view,
which forms the background of the hunting scene.^ Having
strolled back to the toldo, I was greeted hj the women with
the usual demand, ' Mon aniwee ' — Anglice, ' Lend us the
pipe,' which was duly charged and handed round. We then
sat and watched the proceedings of Keoken, Tankelow's pretty-
little daughter, just budding into womanhood, and a small
boy to whom I gave the name of Captain John, who were
amusing themselves by catching and riding some of the
horses which were tamer than the others. The urchins soon
grew tired of their equestrian feats ; and, prompted by the
spirit of mischief, which seems ever to haunt children, and
especially Indian boys, came and begged a match of me. Not
suspecting their purpose, I gave them the coveted prize, with
which they hurried off in high delight, and in a very few
minutes had set fire to the rank, withered herbage, some dis-
tance off the toldo, but to the windward. The conflagration
was at first unnoticed by us ; but at dusk, when Tankelow
returned from hunting, with a supply of meat, it was pal-
pably dangerous. So all hands had to set to work, and by
dint of tearing up the grass, with great trouble we stopped its
progress, which if aided by a breeze in the night would very
probably otherwise have consumed the toldo and endangered
the inmates. Of the culprits no notice was taken, the oc-
currence being apparently regarded as all in the day's work.
After our supper off guanaco meat, and a smoke, I turned in,
and slept soundly on my Tehuelche bed of hides and bolsters
which had been carefully arranged by the tall hostess.
The next day was got through by having a thorough
*wash' of my clothes, and cultivating a closer acquaintance
with the Chilian Arica, from whom I obtained a dog in
exchange for an old guanaco mantle. But as on the third
day no signs of the return of Orkeke appeared, the inaction
became insupportable, so after the departure on a hunting
excursion of Tankelow and his son, Arica and myself deter-
mined to start in pursuit of Casimiro and his party. As
' Frontispiece.
Cu. III.] ALONE ON THE PAMPA. 65
Arica liad no horse, it would be necessary for us to ride and
tie ; but even tbus we could make quick travelling. Accord-
ingly at 2 P.M. we started, much, to the astonishment of the
ladies, who pi-otested that we were certain to lose our way
or be killed by the pumas. One old lady, Orkeke's sister,
after trying in vain to dissuade us, presented me with a slice
of charqui, which with a few handfuls of coffee formed our
stock of provisions. That day we did not get very far;
but in the next march, as the track of the Indians was
plain, we had made thirty miles by the time we halted, at
nightfall, at a place where another valley from the north-
ward joined that of the Eio Chico. Our charqui had barely
sufficed for an evening meal, so this day we satisfied our
appetites with a supply of the tuberous roots of a plant which
grows in great quantities in most parts of Patagonia.
The plant, which in its growth resembles very closely the
balsam bog of the Falkland Islands, and might be easily
taken for it but for the absence of the gum, which perhaps
was attributable to the quality of the soil or the season of
the year, is easily recognisable by its mass of tiny green
leaflets, and presents the appearance of a small hillock of
earth crowned with delicate moss. By digging down into
the heap, one large and several small tuberous roots are
found, which when roasted in the ashes prove sufficiently
palatable to hungry men.
We went to sleep in the open air, rolled up in our guanaco
mantles, but awoke to find that a heavy fall of snow had
covered everything a foot deep, and totally hidden all trail of
the Indians. In this dilemma, quite uncertain which of the
two valleys to ascend, and feeling extremely cold, we first
looked out for a place of shelter. This was afforded us by a
little dell or recess in the side of the barranca, which was
thickly overgrown with incense bushes. Betaking ourselves
thither, we speedily had a blazing fire kindled, and while
warming our chilled limbs held a council. It was decided
that I should mount, and proceed to hunt for some food ;
and then, if the weather moderated, we could proceed. Arica
was left in charge of the fire, with a stron<2f caution from me
G6 AT HOME AVITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
to keep it up, and to make as much smoke as possible, by
way of signal to the Indians. After a good deal of diflficultj
my horse, which was only half broken, and had a playful
way of rearing up and striking with his forefeet, was curbed
with the leathern thong which forms the Indian bit. I then
proceeded to scale the barranca bordering the river valley,
and soon reached the desolate undulations of the higher
Pampa. As a necessary precaution against losing my way,
I was careful to take two or three bearings of conspicuous
hills, visible in the northern limits of the valley ; for the
monotonous and dreary waste of the Pampa, strewn with
boulders and shingle, alternated with tufts of grass, presents
no track or landmark to guide the wanderer. It was not
long before two or three herds of guanaco were sighted; but
the dog, which had probably during the night foraged for
himself, and found some half-eaten carcase, would not run,
and a gallop of some twelve miles proved fruitless. Just
as I was about giving up in despair, I observed a herd in a
hollow, which I was able to approach unobserved. Knowing
that our chance of food for the day depended . on success, I
warily approached, and then charged, and to my delight
succeeded in entangling one with the bolas. He was soon
despatched ; and while I was busily cutting off a supply of
meat, to my sudden surprise an Indian came galloping up.
The newcomer proved to be Tankelow, who was in search of
me. He brought word that Orkeke had found the strayed
horse, and had returned ; and that the party were marching
as fast as they could to overtake Casimiro. He had been
detached, partly to hunt and partly to find us. In reply to
my inquiries about Arica, he assured me that he was all right,
and as there seemed no reason for disbelieving the statement,
we speedily rode back to the party, and rejoined them on
the march ; being received with shouts of laughter by the
ladies ; but as Arica was nowhere to be seen, I expressed
my determination to ride back in search of him. This, how-
ever, they would not allow, but despatched a mounted Indian
and spare horse to bring him in, and a good piece of meat
for his refreshment. We then proceeded at a brisk rate, and
Cu. III.] THE KAU OR TOLDO. 67
bj nigMfall reached the camp. Orkeke at first seemed
rather to resent mj having stai-ted off alone, as if it argued a
want of confidence in him ; but his delight at having re-
covered his horse assisted him to recover his good humour.
Mr. Clarke had sent me by him some powder, which he said
he had lost, and some articles, such as linen and tobacco,
and my presenting them all to him quite did away with any
traces of ill feeling.
The several detachments were all now reunited, and the
party mustered altogether, besides the Chilians and myself,
eighteen able-bodied Tehuelche or Patagoniau men, with a
proportionate number of women and children. The most
important among the Indians were Orkeke, the actual cacique,
and his brother Tankelow, who possessed the greater number
of horses ; Casimiro, whose leadership was still rather in
2Josse; Camillo, Crime, Cuastro, Cayuke, &c. One more
must be mentioned by name, Waki ; a perfect Hercules in
bodily frame, and a thoroughly good-natured fellow, with
whom I became great friends. Of all these men, who were
in the camp by the Rio Chico on August 15, but eight
survived to reach the Rio Negro in the following May ; the
rest had, at one time or another, been killed or had died.
The secret feuds, which were before long to endanger the
safety of us all, were as yet concealed, and all appeared
to be good friends. The whole were housed in five toldos —
by which Spanish name the Indian kau, or tents, strongly
resembling those of our own gipsies, are known. They
were pitched in a sheltered hollow, with their fronts facing
the east, to avoid the bitter violence of the prevalent westerly
winds.
Fitzroy has given an excellent description of the toldo ;
but to those readers who are unacquainted with it a brief
sketch will not be unacceptable. A row of forked posts
about three feet high is driven into the ground in a slightly •
slanting position, and a ridge pole laid across them ; in front
of these, at a distance of about seven feet, a second row,
six feet high, with a ridge pole ; and at the same distance
from them a third row, eight feet high, each slanting a little,
f 2
68 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
but not at the same angle. A covering made of from forty
to fifty full grown guanaco skins, smeared with a mixture of
grease and red oclire, is drawn over from the rear, and the
great drag of the heavy covering straightens the poles ; it is
then secured by thongs to the front poles, while hide curtains
fastened between the inner poles partition off the sleeping
places, and the baggage piled round the sides of the tent
excludes the cold blast which penetrates under the edge of
the covering. The fire is kindled in the fore part, or ' mouth
of the tent.' Tn very bad weather, or when encamped for
the winter, an additional covering is secured to the front
poles and brought down over an extra row of short posts,
making all snug. It is a common arrangement for relatives
or friends to combine their toldos, when, instead of bringing
down the coverings to the ground at the side, they are made
to overlap, and thus one tent roof will cover two or three
distinct domestic interiors.
The furniture of the toldos consists of one or two bolsters
and a horse hide or two to each sleeping compartment, one
to act as a curtain and the other for bedding. The bolsters
are made of old ponchos, or lechus, otherwise called man-
dils, woven blankets obtained from the Araucanos, who are
famous for their manufacture, stuffed with guanaco wool
and sewn up with ostrich or guanaco sinews. The bolsters
do duty as pillows or as seats, and help to form the women's
saddles on the march. Besides these, the women all own
mandils for their beds. The men occasionally use the cloths
worn under the saddles for seats when the ground is damp,
but as a rule all the inmates of the toldo squat upon Nature's
carpet, which has the advantage of being easily cleaned, for
the Tehuelches are very j)articular about the cleanliness of
tlie interior of their dwellings, and a patch of sod ac-
cidentally befouled is at once cut out and thrown outside by
the women.
The cooking utensils are simple, consisting of an asador,
or iron spit, for roasting meat, and an occasional iron pot,
which serves for boiling and also for trying out ostrich
grease and marrow, which is employed both for cooking
Cii. III.] THE INDIAN TRIBES. (59
and for mixing with the paint with, which the faces of both
sexes are adorned. To these, wooden platters and armadillo
shells, to serve broth in, are sometimes added. The duty of
pitching and arranging the toldos on the halt and striking
them for the march, as well as loading the poles, covering, and
furniture on the horses, devolves entirely upon the women,
who display great strength and dexterity in the work.
About the toldos were innumerable dogs of all sizes and
breeds, and Mrs. Orkeke rejoiced in the possession of two
fowls brought from the settlement, and the all important
possession of the Indians, horses, completed the bustling
liveliness of the scene. There were not less than 150 belonging
to the various members of the party, Orkeke and Tankelow
owning about forty, besides mares and skittish colts of all
ages, which ran about so that they could not be counted.
The reader can imagine what a scene the march and encamp-
ment of such a party presents, and the care with which the
Indians must select their route so as to be sure of game for
themselves and pasture for their animals. Of the dogs and
horses in use by the Tehuelches a fuller description wiU be
given hereafter.
But, to convey a clear understanding of the relations
between the tribes which will be mentioned in the ensuing
pages, it is as well here briefly to distinguish them. In the
various maps and accounts of Patagonia extant, numerous
tribes, with different names, are marked and recorded.
These accounts, so far as my observations enabled me to
judge, have arisen from the custom of parties of the tribe
combining to travel or fight under the leadership of a
particular chief, and being described by themselves, when
met with, by his name. I have been enabled to recognise thus
the Moluches, who were so called from Malechou, a hereditary
chief of that name ; and the celebrated chief Lenketrou
united under his leadership men of several tribes, and is said
to have commanded 1,500 men in his great raid on the Eio
Negro settlements. There are now between the Rio Negro
and the Straits about 500 fighting men, giving at a rough
estimate a population of about 3,000. The Tehuelches, or
70 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
Patagonians proper, exclusive of the Foot Indians of Tierra
del Fuego — who are distinct, though they may be of the
same original stock — are divided into two great tribes, the
Northern and Southern. They speak the same language, but
are distinguishable by difference of accent, and the Southern
men appear to be, on an average, taller and finer men,
and are more expert hunters with the bolas. The ISTorthern
range chiefly over the district between the Cordillera and
the sea ; from the Eio Negro on the north to the Chupat,
occasionally descending as far as the Santa Cruz River. The
Southern occupy the country south of the Santa Cruz, and
migrate as far as Punta Arena. The two divisions, however,
are much intermixed and frequently intermarry ; always, not-
withstanding, preserving their clannish division, and taking
opposite sides in the frequent quarrels. Our party was com-
posed in almost equal parts of both Northern and Southern,
and one inmate of our toldo was a Southern named Hummums,
a brother of Mrs. Orkeke. From the Eio Negro as far as the
Chupat, another tribe, speaking a different language, is met
with, having their head- quarters at the Salinas, north of
the Rio Negro. These are the Pampas, called by the
Tehuelches ' Penck,' whence I believe the name Pehuelche
has been corrupted. Several clans of this nation extend
over the plains north of Rio Negro, and make frequent
inroads into the Argentine settlements as far as the province
of Santa Fe, and even, I believe, to Cordova and Mendoza.
The Pampas of the north of Patagonia sometimes keep
cattle and sheep, but generally subsist by the chase. A
third tribe appear, by their language and j)hysique, to be a
branch of the Araucanos of Chili. The^e are the people called
by the Tehuelches Chenna, and also the Warriors ; they are
otherwise known as Manzaneros, from their head-quarters
Las Manzanas, so named from the groves of apple trees ;
once a station of the early Jesuit missionaries, who vainly
endeavoured to convert and civilise these tribes. They are
less migratory and more civilised in their habits than the
Tehuelches, and are said to keep herds of cattle and sheep
in the sheltered valleys of the Cordillera, and sometimes
Cii. III.] OEDER OF THE MARCH. 7 1
till a little maize. I do not know wlietlier the Jesuit
Fathers taught their disciples the art or no, but from the
apples of Las Manzanas these Indians brew a very tolerable
cider, besides making an intoxicating liquor from the beans
of the algarroba. The Tehuelches altogether depend for their
stimulants on the chance supplies of rum procured in trade
at the settlements, and this and disease, small-pox especially,
are rapidly diminishing their numbers.
We remained in our encampment by the Rio Chico for one
day, during which the missing Arica arrived. He was
received with very black looks by Orkeke, who from this
time, although still allowing him a place in his toldo, and a
horse to ride, seemed to have conceived a violent aversion
to him, which argued badly for the Chilian's fature safety.
It appeared that during my absence he had given way to the
desire cff providing something to eat, and had left the fire to
burn out, while he foraged for roots. On returning he saw
a huge puma couched by the extinct ashes of the fire. Just,
however, as Arica was about to fire the revolver which I had
lent him, the beast bounded away into the bushes. But as
he was convinced that the puma was close at hand waiting
for an opportunity to attack, he spent several hours on the
watch with his revolver ready. His delight may be imagined
when, worn out with want of food and rest, he was relieved
by the arrival of the Indian with the meat and a horse for
him to ride.
The next da}^ we made a short march up the river valley,
the caravan of women and horses, as usual, proceeding along
the track, while the men hunted in the adjacent plains. I
was fortunate enough in the hunt to kill a guanaco and an
ostrich, and duly shared them with Casimiro. The order of
march and method of hunting which constitute the daily
routine are as follows : the Cacique, who has the ordering of
the marching and hunting, comes out of his toldo at daylight,
sometimes indeed before, and delivers a loud oration, de-
scribing the order of march, the appointed place of hunting,
and the general programme ; he then exhorts the young men
to catch and bring up the horses, and be alert and nc^irB in
72 AT nOME WITH fHE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. III.
the liunt, enforcing Ms admonition, by way of a wind up, witli
a boastful relation of his own deeds of prowess when he was
young. Sometimes the women, while the chief is haranguing,
rekindle or blow up the embers of the fire and prepare a
slight breakfast, but not invariably. Some cold meat is also
occasionally reserved from the evening meal, and placed in a
hide bag to be carried with them on the march, to be given
to the children when they are hungry. But the general
custom for the men is to wait until the day's hunt has sup-
plied fresh meat. When the Cacique's ' oration ' — which is
very little attended to — is over, the young men and boys
lazo and bring up the horses, and the women place on their
backs the bolsters of reeds, tied with hide thongs, mantles,
and coloured blankets, which form their saddles ; others are
strapping their belts on, or putting their babies into wicker-
work cradles, or rolling up the skins that form the coverings
of the toldos, and j)lacing them and the poles on the baggage-
horses ; last of all the small breakers, which are carried on
the march, are filled with water. The women mount by
means of a sling round the horses' necks, and sit astride of
their bolster- saddles ; their babies — if they possess any — and
their pet dogs are hoisted up, the babies being stowed in the
cradles behind them ; then they take their baggage-horses
in tow and start oif in single file. The men, who generally
wait until all are ready, then drive the spare horses for a
short distance, and having handed them over to the charge
of their wives or daughters, retire to a neighbouring bush,
where a fire is kindled, pipes are lighted, and the hunt com-
menced in the following manner : — Two men start off and
ride at a gallop round a certain area of country, varying
according to the number of the party, lighting fires at in-
tervals to mark their track. After the lapse of a few minutes
two others are despatched, and so on until only a few are left
with the cacique. These spread themselves out in a crescent,
closing in and narrowing the circle on a point where those
first started have by this time arrived. The crescent rests
on a baseline formed by the slowly-proceeding line of women,
children, and baggage-hors^. The ostriches and herds of
Cu. III.] INDIAN GAME LAW. 73
guanaco run from tlie advancing' party, but are checked by
the pointsmen, and when the circle is "vvell closed in are
attacked with the bolas, two men frequently chasing the same
animal from different sides. The dogs also assist in the
chase, but the Indians are so quick and expert with the bolas
that unless their horses are tired, or they happen to have
gambled away their bolas, the dogs are not much called into
use. Puma are very frequently found in the circles, and
quickly despatched by a blow on the head from a ball. On
one occasion I saw Waki completely crush, by a single blow,
the skull of an unusually large one. The Indian law of
division of the game prevents all disputes, and is as follows :
The man who balls the ostrich leaves it for the other, who
has been chasing with him, to carry or take charge of, and
at the end of the hunt it is divided ; the feathers and body
from the head to the breast-bone and one leg belonging to
the captor, the remainder to the assistant. In the case of
guanaco, the first takes the best half in the same manner;
the lungs, heart, liver, kidneys, and the fat and marrow
bones are sometimes eaten raw. The Tehuelches also cut
out the fat over the eyes, and the gristly fat between the
thigh joints, which they eat with great gusto, as also the
heart and blood of the ostrich. Owing to the entire absence
of farinaceous food, fat becomes a necessary article of diet,
and can be consumed in much larger quantities than in more
civilised countries. That this is not merely owing to the
inclemency of the climate is proved by the appetite for fat
which the gauchos in the Argentine provinces acquire.
When the hunt is finished, and the birds cut up and divided,
fires are kindled, and whilst stones are heating the ostrich is
plucked, the wing feathers being carefully tied together with
a piece of sinew. The bird is then laid on its back and
drawn ; the legs are carefully skinned down, and the bone
taken out, leaving the skin; the carcase is then separated
into two halves, and the backbone having been extracted
from the lower half, and the meat sliced so as to admit the
heated stones laid in between the sections, it is tied up like
a bag, secured by the skin of the legs, with a small bone
74 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [C;i. III.
thrust througli to keep all taut ; this is placed on the live
embers of the fire, a light blaze being kindled when it is
nearly done to perfectly roast the outside meat. During the
process of cooking it has to be turned frequently to ensure
all parts being thoroughly cooked. When ready it is taken
off the fire, and the top part being cut off and the stones
extracted, the broth and meat are found deliciously cooked.
The party, generally consisting of twos or foui's, sit round
the dish and eat the meat, sopping it in the broth. The back
part, which consists nearly altogether of fat (when the ostrich
is in good condition), is then divided, pieces being given to
each, and reserved as tid bits for the women and children.
When the head and breast half are to be cooked, the bone is
not extracted, but the wings turned inside and the breast
cavity filled with heated stones, and tied up with half of the
skin of the legs, which have been divided, additional pieces
of meat from the legs having been placed in the breast cavity.
The fat of the breast is divided amongst the party at the
fireside, the owner in all cases reserving none or a very small
piece for himself, as the others who are cooking at the same
fire are sure to give him j)lenty. The cacique generally re-
ceives the largest share, or if he is not present, the greatest
friends of the owner. The wing feathers are carefully taken
to the toldos and stored with others for future trade. The
ostrich is most thoroughly eaten ; the gizzard, which is large
enough to fill both hands, being carefully cooked by the
insertion of a hot stone and roasted; the eyes, too, are
sucked, and the tripe devoured ; but when the birds are thin
they are simply skinned, and the carcase left to the pumas.
After the meal, concluding the hunt, is finished, a pipe is
handed round, saddles are re-adjusted, and the game placed
on them, and the party adjourn to the toldos, which by this
time have been pitched and arranged by the women.
Guanaco are not much killed, unless a long stay in a place
is intended, or an Indian feels inclined for blood, or ostriches,
A^^hich are always eaten in preference, are scarce. The meat
of the guanaco is, however, excellent; the haunches are
generally what is termed in Spanish ' charqueared,' which
■\
Cii. III.] BASALTIC HILLS. 75
means that the meat is cut off in thin slices, and, after a
little salt has been sprinkled over it, is dried in the sun.
When thoroughly dried it is roasted in the ashes, pounded
between two stones, and mixed with ostrich or other grease ;
this preparation, like pemmican, is very useful for a man
going a long journey, as it can be carried in a small compass,
and a mere handful satisfies the appetite.
It would be tedious to describe every day's march, and the
routine of hunting, as we made our way slowly up the valley
of the Rio Chico, which was still frozen over. The weather
was cold, and occasional showers of snow accompanied the
strong piercing westerly winds which blew every day. The
valley sometimes opened out into wide grass-covered plains,
dotted with incense-bushes, then rose again in huge bare
ridge and furrow-like undulations. Occasionally there oc-
curred patches of swampy ground with frozen lagoons, and
here and there open springs, the resort of numerous water-
fowl. The hills on the northern side appeared bare and
rugged, rising abruptly out of irregular forms, while the
southern heights were lower, and presented more of the steep
declivities known as barrancas, interrupted at intervals by
high rugged hills of basalt, often assuming the appearance
of ruined castles, closing in at the bends of the winding
river. To one of these — a remarkable hill under which we
were encamped on August 23, about 120 miles from Santa
Cruz — I gave the name of Sierra Yentana, from a window-
like opening through its peak ; the Indians called it Mowaish.
(See Illustration.) In many places the bases of these hills
were formed entirely of a description of lava, and one of the
Chilians informed me that whilst passing over a ridge, he
had observed several large masses of pure iron : this, how-
ever, I was inclined to disbelieve, as although farther up the
country iron ore exists in large quantities, I only observed in
this part a species of ore similar to that common at Drobak,
in Norway.
On one occasion, while marching, we observed smoke in
our rear, which was thought to be caused either by a mes-
senger in search of us announcing the arrival of the schooner,
76 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGOISIANS. [Ch. III.
or else by a parly of the Southern Indians wlio had some idea
of marching north. However, no scout was sent back to
discover the truth, so we remained in ignorance. On the
26th we halted, and encamped by the side of the river in a
broad opening of the valley ; here there was a lagoon, not
completely frozen, in which grew a descrij)tion of flag, of
which the root, or rather lower stem, is eaten by the Indians,
and is succulent and juicy, with a pleasant taste. The boys
and girls soon brought a large supply into the toldos. The
day after our arrival in this place, the attainment of the age
of puberty of one of the girls was celebrated according to
custom. Early in the morning the father of the child in-
formed the cacique of the event, the cacique thereupon offi-
cially communicated the intelligence to the acting doctor or
medicine-man, and a considerable shouting was set up, while
the doctor adorned himself with white paint and was bled in
the forehead and arms with a sharp bodkin. The women
immediately set to work to sew a number of ' mandils '
together. When the patchwork was finished, it was taken
with pomp and ceremony by a band of young men, who
marched round the poles — already fixed to form a temporary
toldo — singing, whilst the women joined in with the most
dismal incantations and bowlings. After marching round
several times, the covering was drawn over the poles, and
lances were stuck in front, adorned with bells, streamers, and
brass plates that shook and rattled in the breeze, the whole
thing when erected presenting a very gay appearance (its
Indian name literally meaning 'The pretty house'). The
girl was then placed in an inner part of the tent, where
nobody was admitted. After this everybody mounted, and
some were selected to bring up the horses, out of which
certain mares and fillies were chosen, and brought up in
front of the showy toldo, where they were knocked on the
head by a ball — thus saving the blood (which was secured in
pots) to be cooked, being considered a great delicacy. It is
a rule amongst the Indians that anyone assisting to take off
the hide of a slaughtered mare is entitled to a piece of meat,
but the flesh was on this occasion distributed pretty equally
Cn. III.] MY FIRST TEHUELCHE BALL. 77
all round. Whilst the meat was cooking, Casimiro, who was
ruler of the feast, sent a message for me to come to Crime's
tolclo, where I found him busy working- at a saddle, in the
construction of which he was, by the way, an adept. His
wife had a large iron pot bubbling on the fire, containing some
of the blood mixed with grease. When the mess was nearly
cooked, we added a little pepper and salt, and commenced
the feast. Previous to this I had felt a sort of repugnance to
eating horse, as perhaps most Englishmen — except, indeed,
the professed hippophagists — have; but hunger overcame
all scruples, and I soon acquired quite a taste for this meat.
On this occasion everybody ate where they liked, in their
own toldos. Casimiro informed me, after the meal was con-
cluded, that there would be a dance in the evening. I looked
forward with great anticipation to this ' small and early,'
and shortly saw some of the women proceed to collect a con-
siderable quantity of firewood, which was placed outside the
tent. Presently, towards dusk, a fire was made, first outside
the sacred precincts. The women all sat down on the grass
round about, but at some distance from the men, who were
all seated on the grass, except four and the musicians. The
orchestra consisted of a drum made by stretching a piece of
hide over a bowl, also a sort of wind instrument formed of
the thigh-bone of a guanaco, with holes bored in it, which is
placed to the mouth and played, or with a short bow having
a horsehair string. When all was ready, some of the old
hags all the time singing in their melodious way, the band
struck up, and four Indians, muffled up in blankets, so that
their eyes only were visible, and their heads adorned with
ostrich plumes, marched into the ring, and commenced
pacing slowly round the fire, keeping time to the music.
After two or three promenades, the time gradually quickened,
until they went at a sort of trot ; and about the fifth round,
dancing fast to the music, they threw away their mantles, and
exhibited themselves adorned with white jJaint daubed all over
their bodies, and each having a girdle of bells extending from
the shoulder to the hip, which jingled in tune to their steps.
The first four consisted of the chiefs Casimiro, Orkeke, Crime,
78 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
and Camillo, who, after dancing witli great action (just
avoiding stepping into the fire), and bowing their phimed
heads grotesquely on either side to the beats of the drum,
retired for a short time to rest themselves, after which they
appeared again and danced a different step. When that was
over four more appeared, and so on, until everyone, including
the boys, had had a fling. Sometimes, to give greater effect,
the performers carried a bunch of rushes in one hand. About
9 P.M., everj-body having had enough, Casimiro gave the
sign. The band stopped playing, and all retired to bed.
The dancing was not ungraceful, but was rendered grotesque
by the absurd motions of the head. It was strictly confined
to the men, the women being only allowed to look on.
On the second day's march from the scene of my first
Indian ball we crossed a rocky ridge abounding with a de-
scription of vesicular lava; the ridge ran out from the
southeni limits of the valley and terminated in precipitous
cliffs, round the base of which wound the river. The surface
of the ridge was fissured in many places with deep chasms
like Alpine crevasses, on the brink of one of which my horse
stopped just in time to escape a fall. The caravan had gone
a more circuitous route to take advantage of the lowest and
easiest crest. On the other side of the ridge the valley sud-
denly spread out to the extent of several miles, and on the
western horizon a line of snowy peaks was visible, their
summits capped with clouds : this was our first view of the
Cordillera. The low ground was cut up by streams and
small lakelets of water, formed by the overflow of a small
fork of the river, which glistening in the afternoon sun-
shine presented a beautiful silvery appearance, very refresh-
ing to the eye wearied with alternate gazing on withered
grass and black volcanic rocks. However beautiful to look
at, this scene would clearly prove difficult travelling, so a
halt was called, and our course debated on; ultimately it
was resolved to cross the river and encamp on the northern
bank, where the ground was higher and free from floods, so
loads were carefully adjusted, and children transferred to the
arms of the men, to give the women more freedom of action ;
Ch. III.] FORDING THE RIO CIIICO. 79
baggage-horses were also taken in tow by the young men,
and Casimiro and another volunteering to lead the van and
act as pilots, we proceeded to make our way to the river-bank,
which rose by a gradual elevation from the lower inundated
plain. After much floundering about in water-holes, and
various spills, which caused great merriment, especially when
Mrs. Orkeke and all her gear came down by the run, an iron
kettle of which she was very proud clattering down so as to
frighten several of the horses into what threatened to become
a general stampede, the bank was safely reached ; the river
was swollen high, and its rapid current running six or seven
miles an hour, was bringing down huge sharp-edged masses
of ice. It seemed almost impossible for the women and
baggage animals to cross. However, Orkeke, taking a long
l^ole to sound with, led the way, and by watching their
opportunity to dodge the floating ice, which cut the horses'
and riders' legs cruelly, all got safely over. A wilder
scene could hardly be imagined— dogs howling on the bank
fearing to pass, women singing out to their various friends
and relations, and here and there an adventurous Indian,
who scorned to go by the ford with the rest, disappearing
for a second in the river, horse and all, but ultimately
emerging some distance down the stream. The water was
bitterly cold, as may be imagined, and the piercing wind be-
numbed our dripping bodies ; so on arriving at the north bank,
where there were some small sandy hillocks, we kindled a large
fire, and had a warm and a smoke whilst the women were
employed pitching the toldos. It had been decided to remain
here some days and then proceed to the vicinity of the Cordil-
lera for the purpose of catching wild horses. But, as will be
seen shortly, ' I'homme propose et Dieu dispose.' Looking up
towards the Cordillera from our encampment, the valley
appeared to expand a few miles up into one immense plain,
and the Indians informed me that before reaching the moun-
tains there is a great drop or basin where the wild horses are
found. This was probably, at the period of our visit, a vast
sheet of water from the melting snows. Lake Viedma lies
some miles to the southward from the head of the valley.
80 AT n03IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. III.
and I should be inclined to think that the course of the Eio
Chico, which undoubtedly flows from it, would be found to
come from the south to north, and bend easterly at the head
of the valley, where it unites the numerous streams as
described by Yiedma in his journey in 1580. I am also in-
clined to think that Yiedma being taken twice across the
Eio Chico mistook the river at the second crossing for
another, which he has marked as the Chalia, a name, by
the way, unknown to the Indians, save as applied to an un-
savoury parasite only too common among them. The follow-
ing morning, September 2, we were sitting quietly round
the fire discussing a breakfast of boiled ostrich prepared by
the lady of the house, when suddenly the clash of knives
was heard, and we saw two Indians, destitute of mantles,
with naked swords in their hands, run across from Camillo's
to Crime's toldo. In a minute everything was in an uproar ;
arms were produced, guns and revolvers loaded, and some of
the Indians equipped themselves in coats of mail, and others,
with the assistance of the women, jjadded themselves about
the chest and upper part of the body with thick blankets
and corconillas or saddle-cloths. Knowing what was about
to happen, the women, and with them all the Chilian de-
serters except one, beat a retreat to a safe distance from the
toldos. Having assumed my arms, and feeling thoroughly
mystified as to the real cause of this excitement, I went to
Camillo's toldo, where the scene explained itself. He was
lying on his bed dead, with a frightful gash in his side,
having been murdered by Cuastro, one of the Indians whom
we had seen running to Crime's tents. On issuing from the
toldo Casimiro met me, and asked for a revolver, as he had
no firearms, and I lent him one accordingly. The Indians
showed by their changed countenances all the fury of fight;
their vei'y complexions seemed ghastly, and their ejes glared
and rolled, seeming to see blood. The two opposing parties,
the Southern Indians — friends of Crime, who was a cousin
of Cuastro — and Orkeke's and Casimiro's people or the
Northern party, were soon ranged in open line at some
twenty yards distance from each other. Cuastro was con-
Cii. III.] DEATH OF CUASTKO. 81
spicuous bj liis tunic or ' buff coat ' of hide studded with
silver, while his only weapon was a single sword or rapier.
The fight commenced with an irregular discharge of guns
and revolvers, which lasted a few minutes, till some of the
Northern or Orkeke's Indians, led bj Casimiro, closed up,
and a hand to hand contest with swords and lances took
place, resulting in the death of Cuastro aud the severe
wounding of two or three Southern Indians. The Northerns
then drew off to reload, and were about to renew the action,
when Tankelow proposed a truce, which was accepted on the
understanding that both parties were to march at once in
the same direction. The women and children were then
recalled from the bushes whither they had retired, the horses
brought up, and the dead buried. The Tehuelches' lance is
entirely different to that of the Araucanos or Pampas, and is
only used when fighting on foot ; it consists of a heavy shaft
eighteen feet in length, at the extremity of which a blade
is fixed about eighteen inches long, constituting a most
formidable weapon in the hands of an expert Indian.
Cayuke, whom I have before mentioned, in this fight was
armed with the lance, and ran Cuastro through the body,
although protected by his mail and endeavouring to parry
the point with a sword. This Cuastro was a brave man ;
when dying, with several bullets in his body, and several
lance thrusts, he sprang up to his full height and called out,
* I die as I have lived — no cacique orders me ; ' his wife
then rushed up to him crying and sobbing, but he fell down
dead at the same moment. Casimiro had a narrow escape ;
he parried a blow of a sword with what may be termed the
slack part of his mantle, but if the blow had caught him on
the head, as intended, it would have ended his career then
and there. The casualties were a wound in Crime's leg, and
a lance thrust clean through the thigh of Hummums, a youno-
Indian, who seemed to care very little about it. The fio-ht
originated out of a vendetta between Cuastro and Camillo
the latter having some years before caused the death of a
member of the family of the former, who had on a previous
occasion endeavoured to avenge it on Camillo, and he
Q
82 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
had only attached himself to our party, in company with
Crime, in order to obtain an opportunity of assassinating
Camillo. This Cuastro had been suspected on good grounds of
making away with Mendoza, the Argentine sent from Buenos
Ayres in company with Casimiro, and who mysteriously dis-
appeared ; and he had certainly, when under the influence
of rum, at Santa Cruz, murdered his own wife Juana, a
daughter of Casimiro, so that brave as he was he had richly
deserved the fate he met with.
After the obsequies of the dead had been hurriedly per-
formed— a description of which is reserved for another place
— the tents were struck, and all marched off, the men re-
maining armed, and each party travelling separately. Cayuke
was sent back some miles to ascertain if there were any signs
of the other Southern Indians, who were half expected to
overtake us ; but he returned some hours later with no intel-
ligence. We marched a few miles up the valley, rather
coasting the northern hills, and encamped by a most beautiful
circular spring, the water bubbling up through pure white
sand and forming a tiny brook, while little fishes darted
across in the basin. The Indians still remained with arms
ready to hand — were very silent and ate nothing. Several
of the Northerns came into our toldo towards evening, and
remained a long time conversing by the embers of the fire,
and ever and anon one of the widows of the deceased would
break out into a wail of lamentation, sobbing in the most
dismal and melancholy manner, the lament at times being
taken up by some of the older hags.
On the following day Crime sent for me to dress his leg,
imagining, of course, that I understood surgery; so T washed
the wound and bandaged it with cold water bandages, which
appeared to be successful, as in a few days it inconvenienced
him but little. Thence proceeding to Casimiro's toldo — the
smallest I ever saw — I got him to cover my saddle with a
guanaco skin I had obtained on the road. The children ap-
peared to be the only members of the party unaffected by the
prevailing gloom. They had found a snow-bank in a nook, and
amused themselves sliding down it on a bit of wood a la Rnsse.
Ch. III.] CHILIAN CONSPIRACY. 83
This evening tilings looked very black again. A consultation
was held in Orkeke's toldo, and although it was carried on in
a low tone, and I was little conversant with the Tehuelche
tongue, I heard my name frequently mentioned in connection
with a revolver, and also the Chilians. I was much puzzled
at what was going on, but as Mrs. Orkeke brought me some
supper in the most gracious and smiling manner, did not
trouble myself more than to overhaul my arms quietly, and
see they were ready for use. I subsequently found out that
a plot had been set on foot amongst the Chilians to rise, rob,
and murder the Indians, and escape with the horses. Some,
however, my informant among the number, refused to join.
The Indians, who are naturally quick-sighted, had conceived
a suspicion that all was not right, and were debating whether
it would not be better to kill the Chilians at once, before
they became more troublesome ; but Casimiro prevailed on
them to let them remain until they did something to
necessitate their destruction j and so they escaped for the
present.
September 5th, at an early hour, we were awoke by
Orkeke's marching harangue; and after coasting the hills
bordering the valley for a few miles, bade adieu to the valley
of the Rio Chico, and struck into a gorge of the noi-thern
hills, leading into an uneven valley lying between low irre-
gular hills of decomposed lava, which we followed, passing
several small lagoons in the lower hollows, around which
there was invariably a yellow description of clay. The hills
were everywhere covered with scrub, and presented a wild,
bleak appearance, the grey rocks only ajjpearing now and
then. After some hours' travelling through this dismal dis-
trict in a north-west course, we emerged on a large plain at
the western side, bounded by a range of hills 1,000 feet high,
forming a spur of the Cordillera. The weather was stormy,
and we could only catch occasional glimpses, through the
driving clouds and SDOw-storms, of the loftier peaks of the
more distant mountains. Our expedition in search of wild
horses was, of course, after the recent troubles, abandoned ;
and forced marches, to escape the Southern Indians, in the
84 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
event of their following from Santa Crui, were the order of
the day. Hunting, however, was resumed by the unwounded,
and several ostriches were caught during the day. Towards
evening the encampment was fixed near a lagoon, the environs
of which were barren, and destitute of anything except a
small low shrub which served for firewood. Although the
wind was northerly, it was bitterly cold ; and as I had for
some days past adopted the native costume — keeping my
* store clothes ' stowed away under charge of Mrs. Orkeke —
I felt it exceedingly. The 6th, 7th, and 8th of September were
occupied in making forced marches northward, accompanied
by the usual hunting ; and although both parties continued
armed, and appeared to be rather suspicious of each other,
things went on pretty smoothly. The country traversed on
the 6th and 7th was a large arid plain, dotted with a few
stunted shrubs, enclosed by the before- mentioned spur of the
Cordillera on the western side, and on the east by a low
range of sandy-looking hills. The whole of this plain was
strewn with small pebbles of porphyry, quartz, silica, and
obsidian ; also with small pieces of silicified wood. On the
8th we crossed the spur by a pass walled on either hand with
rocks of vesicular lava. Here we halted for a quarter of an
hour, and everyone broke off pieces of stone suitable for
making hand-balls for bolas. The descent on the western
side was no easy matter, the declivity being strewn with
lar<re masses of rock and loose boulders, and the wind blow-
ing bitterly cold, and with such force that some of the
women's horses could hardly face it. Ultimately all managed
to reach a spacious elevated pampa, on the western side of
which, some fifteen leagues off, rose the Cordillera of the
Andes. In the pass I observed several large pieces of
obsidian, so clear and peculiarly round-shaped that I at
first imagined that a demijohn had been carried thither by
some previous party and broken. Of this the women gathered
some pieces, to serve as scrapers for cleaning guanaco skins.
We traversed the usual barren high pampa — interspersed with
low shrubs, coarse grass, and here and there an incense bush
of considerable size, which afforded a moment's shelter from
Ch. III.] FIEST OSTRICH EGGS. 85
the cutting wind — for some distance, till we at length, reached
a cliff, below which lay a grassy plain, watered by a small,
rapid stream. About thirty miles in the background were
visible the lofty mountains of the Cordillera. The inviting
appearance of the pasture determined us to remain for a
couple of days to rest the horses, after the unusually long
marches of the preceding days. The following day was
occupied chiefly in making hand-balls for bolas from the soft
porous stone obtained in the rocky pass. Towards noon a
frightful gale of wind sprang up, which blew down most of
the toldos ; but ours, thanks to the strength of arm of Mrs.
Orkeke, who had securely fixed the poles, remained firm,
only one or two of the poles being broken. The river, here
flowing in an eastward direction, was the first stream met
with since leaving the valley of the Eio Chico. In the
descent to it, the bench formation, although recognisable,
was not so much marked as in many of the other rivers.
After two days' rest, we resumed our journey; and having
traversed the grassy valley for, perhaps, a mile, ascended a
slight ridge to a higher plain of the usual sterile nature, in
which the first ostrich eggs met with were found. Our
course was directed nearly north-west, to a range of hills
800 feet in height ; on their summit was a plateau strewn
with large stones and rocks.
We formed another hunt, in which numerous ostriches and
several pumas were killed. From the western side of the
plateau we overlooked a large plain, extending to the imme-
diate vicinity of the mountains, but near the side of which
there appeared to be a cutting or steep descent, just like a
railway embankment. As it had been announced in the
cacique's address that we were to encamp near a spring on
the eastern side, and I had killed an ostrich, which, after
giving a sharp run of half a mile, had been turned by the
cavalcade of women, I proceeded in company with Casimiro
and another to have some dinner. We accordingl}^ selected
a bush, cooked, and ate our bird, and at the conclusion of our
meal mounted and proceeded to where we expected to find
the encampment. But, arriving at the spot, we found
86 AT HOME WITH rTHE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
nobody, and looking over tlie plain cauglit a glimpse of a
belated woman just vanishing down the cutting above men-
tioned. We accordingly followed, and an hour's gallop
brought us up with the remainder. The sun had set, but
the light of a young moon enabled us to make our way to the
second bench. I may say the formation altogether much
resembled that of the river Cuheyli; but the river which
flowed in this valley was of small size, although, as we found,
the banks were boggy and almost impracticable. The moon
had by this time set, and after a considerable deal of confu-
sion in the dark, all got across, and night being far advanced
encamped about a mile to the northward. When daylight
enabled us to examine the locality, we found ourselves in a
valley, walled in by lofty abrupt cliffs on both sides, while a
stream — bordered by marshes, containing numerous snipe
and teal — flowed swiftly down the centre of the glen. To
the north the valley appeared to bend westwards, so having
nothing to do, I strolled up to the turn and found that the
high cliffs ceased, and were replaced by the ordinary steep
barrancas, covered from the top to the bottom with incense
bushes. The valley nowhere exceeded a mile in width, and
the gloom and oppressive effect of the prison-like walls of
cliff rendered it by no means a desirable place of abode, but
the pasture skirting the marsh was green and luxuriantly
tender. While I was endeavouring to secure some ducks
and teal with the bolas, two of the Chilians came up search-
ing for firewood. They bitterly bewailed their lot in having
to work and slave for a parcel of savages, but finally forgot
their grievances in a slumber under a bush. Not caring to
be supposed to have been in their company, I returned to the
camp, and examined the rocks, which were different to those
previously observed, showing in many places granite, with
schistose veins, and what appeared to be a species of grey
marble. A stay was made in this place of some four days,
and would have been longer, but that on the third day some
of the party, chiefly boys, who had strolled away a short dis-
tance, balling small birds, came in with the news that Indians
were coming from the south. A scout was immediately sent
Cu. III.] LIFTING THE BOULDER. 87
out, horses brouglit up, and arms got ready. Casimiro came
to me for a supply of cartridges for the revolver, saying,
* Now we shall have to fight ; for if those Southern Indians
beat us, they will spare neither man, woman, nor child.'
This was cheering news, seeing that the odds were likely to
be about ten to one against our side. However, just as we
were mounting, the scout returned with the news that he had
found no traces of Indians ; the supposed enemy being only a
troop of guanaco coming down to water. Cayuke, on its
being ascertained that there was really no danger, had one of
his horses killed as a thank offering ; the meat of course
being distributed for food amongst his friends. There is in
this place, which is called by the Indians ' Amakaken,' a
large spherical boulder of marble, which it is the custom of
the Indians to try their strength by lifting. Casimiro in-
formed me that this stone had been there for many years, and
the custom was very old. It was so large and heavy that I
was just able to grasp it with both arms, and raise it to the
level of my knees, but some of the Indians managed to lift it
to their shoulders. The night subsequent to the false alarm,
snow fell heavily, notwithstanding which on the following
day the Indians, who did not appear to feel secure, marched
again in a northerly direction. Before quitting this valley,
I was fortunate enough to find an ostrich nest with four eggs
in it, which we devoured later on, cooked in the ashes by the
simple method of placing the egg upright, with a hole broken
in the upper surface, through which a piece of stick is in-
serted to stir round the yolk and white, a little salt being
thrown in, and the egg turned to ensure all sides being
equally done ; the result being an omelette in the shell of
most appetising flavour, but a novice in this cookery is apt
to burn his fingers in turning the egg. Towards night we
entered a dark and gloomy gorge, winding amongst fantastic
and confused cliffs and peaked hills, thrown together in
utterly chaotic confusion, which appeared to form a barrier
east and west. But it was impossible accurately to dis-
tinguish the line, so inextricably were the heights jumble
together. My powers of description are utterly inadequa
88 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGO^'IATsS. [Ch. III.
to convey the idea of the formless irregularity of this region
of rocky hills.
At a late hour we encamped in a glen, or corrie, apparently
without a second outlet, and walled in by frowning cliffs,
down the midst of which a torrent foamed in a rocky channel.
All the next day our march continued through a barren
desert of rocks, frequently intersected by deep ravines with
precipitous cliffs, the faces of which in many places displayed
beds of red and yellow ochre, visible at a great distance.
Prom some of these the women, after a scramble, replenished
their supplies of paint. The whole face of this district was torn
and tossed, as if by tremendous explosive force ; and, except
in some deep-lying clay bottoms, where an occasional shallow
lagoon was to be met with, the track was waterless ; snow lay
on the heights and in some places on the ground traversed by
our march, in the course of which a number of the large ibises,
called in Chili bandurria (Theristicus melanopis), were seen.
The nature of the country rendered hunting laborious and
useless. Tankelow, however, found an ostrich and nest, the
eggs from which, about thirty in number, he, according to
Indian custom, divided among those who came up before
they were removed from the nest ; among these lucky indi-
viduals was myself; for, seeing him make to the spot, and
the male bird get up, and being, moreover, well mounted
and exceedingly hungry, I was among the first arrivals.
JFar away to the right of our track, extending thirty or forty
miles eastwards, lies a district called by the Indians ' The
Devil's Country,' which, they assured me, is never entered,
probably from the barren and impracticable nature of the
surface, which seems, from description, to be even worse than
the wilderness traversed by us. Beyond this district there
is a practicable track, sometimes followed by the Indians,
leading northward, probably used as a route to the Chupat ;
but fron> that line to the sea the country is so impassable
that the Indians say it would require two years to proceed
by the sea-coast from Santa Cruz to the Eio Negro. The
existence of such tracks as these, and the desolate Travisias
encountered near the coast, have probably caused Patagonia
Ch. III.] GOD'S HILL. 89
to be described as an arid, almost Avaterless country ; but, in
reality, after passing the coast barrier most of the interior
abounds in lagoons, springs, and frequent streams ; and, even
in the Travisias, the numerous wild animals met with show
that water exists.
Towards evening we left the snow behind us ; and de-
scending a lofty hill, which had bounded our view all day,
came to a large swelling down, from which the prospect was
far more encouraging. Rolling plains extended to the north
and north-east, whilst the Cordillera rose like a wall on the
western side. This hill is called by the Indians ' God's Hill ; '
and the tradition, as communicated by Casimiro, relates that
from this spot the Great Spirit dispersed the animals which
he had made in the caverns. But some of the animals must
have remained behind, as, out on the lower slope of the
downs, two pumas were chased and killed. An hour's ride
over a sandy plain brought us to a valley with a stream
flowing through beautifully green pastui-e. This was the
spot chosen for our encamping, and some of the women were
already busy planting the poles that form the skeleton of
the toldos ; so, turning my horse adrift, I started down to
the stream, and, after the luxury of a bath, lay down and
smoked until the toldos were thoroughly arranged. The
following day a short march was made, in a north-west
direction, to a valley containing better pasture ; here it was
intended to give the horses much-needed repose. Mean-
while, however, meat fell short, so a circle was organised;
my horse was too tired; but Orkeke, seeing me standing
unprepared, said, ' Ask Ako (his pet dog, and adopted child,
and in virtue of his office the owner of several horses) to
lend you a horse.' As Ako had no objection I was soon
mounted, and started for the chase in high spirits. On our
previous journey we had remarked numerous tracks of what
appeared to be ostrich near the ground where our present
circle was to be formed (viz., in the direction of the Cor-
dillera), and all expected to find plenty of game. The circle
was formed, mj'self going as one pointsman; and, after
arriving at the point, I watched anxiously for some time, but
90 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
the only animal that appeared was a male guanaco, which,
as he did not see me crouched behind an incense-bush, until
he came within shot, I successfully balled and killed. After
waiting a little longer, and the Indians being moderately
near at hand, I changed my position a few hundred yards,
to a more likely spot ; but no animals appeared, so I
proceeded in search of Orkeke, whom I shortly discovered
smoking on the top of a small eminence. After the pipe
had been passed in silence, I asked him what he had killed.
' Nothing,' was the answer ; ' let's wait and see ; perhaps some
other Indian has an ostrich.' A careful survey, however,
failed to discover anyone so lucky, although several had
killed guanaco. So we retired to where my dead guanaco
lay uncovered : at our approach two or three condors rose
heavily up ; and shortly about twenty or thirty more spread
their huge wings, sailed away, and perched on a neighbouring
rock. As for the guanaco, in the short half hour of my
absence it had been literally torn to pieces ; so, after extract-
ing and eating the marrow-bones, we returned to camp, on
our way capturing two armadillos. During the past day or
two the temperature had considerably risen, the wind, though
westerly, was mild and genial, and the Indians affirmed that
farther north it would be so warm that I should requii-e
some covering for the head. We found on our return that
Arica during our absence had gone off somewhere on foot.
As he had that morning asked and obtained some tobacco
from me, it seemed probable that he had determined to
attempt to make his way alone to reach civilisation at some
point or other. During our stay in this valley Casimiro
requested me to write a letter for him to the commandante
at the Rio Negro, inquiring whether the Argentine Govern-
ment still allowed him his ration and pay as lieut.-colonel
in their service. I also wrote some letters to my friends,
bat without much hope of their being ' mailed ; ' though
Casimiro assured me that when we joined the Northern
Indians they would forwai'd them to the Araucanos, whence
they might go on by the people who went to Rio Negro to fetch
the chief's allowance of cattle; remote, however, as were
Ch. III.] SUNEISE ON THE CORDILLEKA. 91
all these contingencies, still it Avas a pleasure to write. We
quitted the valley after three days' rest, during which Arica
had not appeared, and he was concluded either to have fallen
a prey to a puma, or to have gone off on his own account. We
journeyed all day over a rough hilly country, encumbered with
large stones and occasional patches of scrub of considerable
height ; ostriches abounded, and large quantities of eggs
were found. During a long march of about thirty miles no
water was seen until we reached the camp at sunset, situated
in a canon ; but along the route an occasional patch of snow
sufficed to quench our thirst. As I rode along in company
with an Indian, named ' Tchang,' he began asking me ques-
tions : first, ' Who is cacique of the English? ' I explained
to him that it was Her Gracious Majesty. ' Is she married ?'
' She is a widow.' ' Has she any children, and how many ?
Has she lots of horses and mares and silver ornaments?'
And so on, until I had satisfied him ; after which he rode
along, repeating, ' A woman cacique ! A woman cacique !
Four sons and five daughters ! Lots of horses, mares, sheep,
and cattle ! ' On the 22nd of September we left the encamp-
ment in the canon about sunrise, and, mounting the ridge
on the north side, halted close to the grave of an Indian ;
the broad and high cairn of stones erected over it denoting
him to have been a cacique of importance, which fact was
communicated to me in a low whisper by Waki. Here a
fire was made, and a few stones added to the pile. Whilst
the Indians were warming themselves the sun rose, and the
view of the Cordillera, seen through the clear atmosphere,
with the sun's first rays illuminating the snowy mountain
summits with a roseate flush, was magnificent. We pursued
our route over sandy plains, crossed at intervals by shallow
streams of water, and halted near some lagoons in a place
called by the Indians ' Kinck.'
The following day we marched again, hunting as usual on
the way. A fat ostrich at this time of the year was a rarity,
but eggs abounded, and formed the main staple of food ; and
the armadillos were also getting into condition, and assisted to
furnish a repast at the camp fire. On the 27th we arrived
92 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
at a place named ' Gelgel,' situated on the banks of a rapid
river, probably that debouching at Port Desire. This was
the point of divergence from the northern route to Patagones
for any party proceeding to hunt in the western plains.
During our stay in Gelgel we hunted in the surrounding
country, and on several occasions observed columns of smoke
to the south, as if made by a party approaching. These at
last appeared nearer, and as no distinct answer was made to
our signal fires, scouts were sent out, but returned with no
information, one, however, asserting that he had found the
tracks of many horses, but his known character as an in-
corrigible liar made his statement valueless. Still everybody
became at last convinced that the Northern Indians were at
war with the Araucanos, and consequently preparations to
fight were commenced. After a watchful night, all fires out,
and sdence strictly observed, all armed, and mounting their
best horses, sallied out. After a while the cause of the whole
disturbance turned out to be Arica, who had wandered for
eleven days on foot, following our track, subsisting on birds'
eggs, and narrowly escaping the pumas, though he had been
more than once attacked by them in broad daylight, and had
killed one with his knife, his story being vouched for by the
boots he had contrived to manufacture out of his deceased
enemy's skin. He looked worn and haggard, his feet were
sore, and he told me that another night would have finished
him. The Indians, who — owing to his desertion and subse-
quent pursuit of us — had been kept on the alert all night,
without fire, and prohibited from conversing, were naturally
indignant, and wanted to kill him. But Casimiro and Orkeke
interceded for him, and he was brought back to the toldos
behind another horseman. Casimiro, apropos of these signal
fires, related to me a curious story, as follows : — ' Many years
ago, when I was quite young, I was travelling a few leagues
to the northward, under my mother's charge. The party
encamped near a large lagoon not far from the Sengel river,
and were occupied in hunting in the neighbourhood. On
several days in succession smoke was observed in difierent
directions, which approached nearer and nearer each time.
Ch. III.] GELGEL-AIK. 03
Being naturally supposed to be caused by the Indians, it was
answered, and scouts were at last sent to ascertain the cause,
as no messengers appeared. They returned, however, stating
that they could discover nothing. At the end of four days
an Indian, tall, gaunt, and emaciated, mounted on a very
thin mule, arrived in the camp, and asked for a chief whose
name was unknown. The stranger was taken, as is cus-
tomary, to the chief's toldo, and his mule turned loose ; but,
strange to say, it never moved from the spot where it was
unsaddled, and the Indian during the time he remained in
the toldo neither ate nor drank. At the end of three days he
mounted his mule, which appeared as fresh as when he
arrived, and rode away to the northward. On the following
day, whilst hunting, a sickness struck the Indians — some
falling dead from their horses, while others, though able to
return home, only survived a short time. As is usual when
disease breaks out, the toldos were removed to some distance
from each other, to escape infection, but many men, women,
and children died.' Of the fact that a plague or sickness
did cause the deaths of many Indians within a few days at
some encampment in these plains, I received further and
reliable confirmation, my informant, who was in the party,
stating that the Pampa tribe was decimated.
In the cliffs above the river on the eastern side of our
encampment I observed many balls of sandstone of various
sizes. On breaking one in two, a piece of what seemed to
be ironstone formed a nucleus, around which layers of sand
appeared to have been aggregated. By Avhat process these
balls could have been formed was to me a mystery ; but they
proved very handy for bolas, only requiring to be slightly
reduced in size. Hunting to the westward from the encamp-
ment, we came across several muddy, or rather clayey bogs,
into one of which, when in full pursuit of an ostrich, I rode,
and my horse sank deep, throwing his rider a complete
summersault ; and with much ado I first picked Tip myself,
and then with greater difficulty extricated my horse from the
tenacious morass.
After Arica's return, the Chilians manifested a restless
94 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
spirit, and frequently asked me tlie direction of tlie Cliupat
settlement. I replied that it lay about 150 leagues to the
E.N.E. from this point, as far as I could judge ; but
that it would be better for them to remain with the
Indians, and do the women's work of providing wood and
water, &c., than to start off into a wild and dreary pampa,
where they would inevitably starve without a knowledge of
the route or guides.
During our stay here I nearly fell a victim to a matrimonial
entanglement. A fair young Indian, whose hair cut across
the forehead denoted widowhood, moreover having several
mares and considerable possessions, to whom I had perhaps
paid some slight attention, proposed that I should set up
toldo with her. This was quite out of my programme of the
journey, but inasmuch as the alliance might prove useful, as
well as agreeable, and feeling lonely in the absence of any par-
ticular friend, I half agreed ; so a go-between was despatched
to arrange the dowry, and it was settled that I should give a
revolver in exchange for two horses to be provided by the
fair one's friends. However, the evening before the happy
day on which we were to have been united, the alarm came,
and as she belonged to the Southern Indians, I thought
better of giving up m^y arms ; so I assigned as a reason for
withdrawing from the bargain, that I did not vnsh to leave
my friend Orkeke's toldo. I have no doubt that her people,
desiring the help of my firearms, had suggested the match to
secure me to support their side. The lady at first was rather
diso-usted, but soon got over it, and we remained on our
former friendly terms.
In this encampment two disagreements occurred between
Indians and their wives, which were the only matrimonial
squabbles that came under my notice during my wanderings
in their company. One occurred between Tankelow and his
spouse in our toldo. It began by Tankelow's striking his
daughter, which his wife angrily resented ; from words they
came to blows, and the squaw was getting rather the best of
it, when Mrs. Orkeke interposed with a strong arm, and
forcibly j)ut a stoj) to the disturbance.
Ch. III.] T^LE. 95
The following day Tanlrelow drove his horses off separately,
but towards evening a reconciliation was effected. On the
3rd of October we left Gelgel-aik and marched west in the
face of a bitterly cold wind. In the hunt not less than seven
pumas were killed, which were, as usual at this time, very
fat, and were duly boiled in the iron pots, furnishing an
excellent supper, the meat closely resembling boiled pork.
During the day seven of the Chilians were missed, and on
our arrival at the toldos, it transpired that they had deter-
mined to try and find their own way to the Chupat settle-
ment ; and as they had left in an underhand manner, which
the Indians look upon as tantamount to a declaration of war,
some of the people wished to pursue and kill them, but this
proposition was overruled by Orkeke and Casimiro. The en-
campment was sheltered by a hill named *Tele,' close to a large
lagoon, covered with waterfowl, into which flowed a beautiful
spring issuing from the hill ; along the margin of the clear
pure water grew a profusion of a sort of green cress, and at
sunset flights of flamingoes (Phoenicopterus tgnipallo) and
rose-coloured spoonbills (Platalea ajaja) came to the lagoon
to feed. One day's hunting was done in the surrounding
plain, which to the west presents several of the remarkable
drops or basin-like formations described by Darwin as existing
on the eastern side of the Cordillera. On October 5th we
broke up the camp and marched in a northerly direction, until
a stream of considerable size was arrived at ; this some of us
crossed at once, although it was deep and the banks rotten and
unsound. The women and remainder of the party diverged to
a ford, old Orkeke sending one of the Chilians to take care
that his little dog (on whom he lavished his paternal
affections) did not get wet. In half an hour's time the
whole party — Ako included — had crossed in safety, and
the camp was pitched on a peninsula between this river
and another which joined it lower down. The united
streams may or may not form a tributary of the Chupat, as
the Indians disagreed on this point, some averring it to be
so, others stating that the river flowed into a large lagoon.
The weather had changed to drizzling rain, and the wet
96 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
and sloppy state of the toldos was very disagreeable. It
did not, however, mncli affect our clothing, as it is easy to
dry a guanaco mantle by the fire, but care must be taken
only to expose the furred side to the heat, otherwise the
hide will become dried and apt to tear easily. Whilst in
this encampment lookouts were posted, and one came in
stating that he had seen smoke in a northerly direction.
Consequently, on October 9, having rested our jaded horses,
which were rapidly improving in condition, from grazing on
the young green grass now springing abundantly in all the
valleys, we crossed a barren, clayey pampa, interspersed
with bogs and marshes at intervals, and on the 10th arrived
at a small range of hills, running east and west, under one of
which the toldos were pitched, near to another of those beau-
tiful circular springs which frequently occur in Patagonia ;
from the centre of the smooth white sand which formed the
bottom, the water bubbled up like liquid crystal, and silvery
fishes could be seen darting about in the circular basin. The
Indians delight in laving their hands and feet in the springs,
and will sit there for a long time admiring the beauty of
these ' eyes of the desert.' As, on our arrival, the women
had not yet completed the domestic arrangements, after
throwing the spoils of the chase off our saddles, a party of us
ascended an adjacent hill to have a look round. The day
was magnificent, and the sun, just setting, bathed the whole
country in a flood of red tints. To the N.E. we observed
three distinct columns of smoke which the Indians averred to
be caused by the five Chilian deserters, and were very bitter
against them, as they were supposed to have lost their way,
and to be desirous of returning again to the toldos. In this
place I found my compass would not act, owing, as I sup-
posed, to having been disabled; but as it subsequently behaved
properly, its temporary derangement must have been due to
some local attraction. To the northward, as well as I could
guess the bearings, ran a long range of hills, terminating in
a peculiarly-peaked mountain, below which the Indians
pointed out the trees which fringed a river — according to
their statements, a tributary of the Chapat. To the west
Ch. III.] PREPARilTIONS FOR WAR. 97
extended rolling plains, which appeared to stretch away
into the distance, interrupting the chain of the Cordillera,
as though there were a depression or break in the mountains,
no hills of large size being visible on the horizon. Whilst
lying down smoking on this hill, I picked up several pieces
of opal and cacholong combined, and as I was idlj formino-
them into different patterns on the ground, and had ar-
ranged a circle resembling a miniature Indian grave, one of
my companions observing what I was doing, grew very
angry and said, ' That will bring ill luck,' evidently believing
that I was mentally compassing the death of some one by
witchcraft. As I had no wish to be killed by way of pre-
vention of any imaginary spells, I quickly gathered up the
specimens, many of which were afterwards lost in the ensuing
journey. The Indian name for this place is Yaiken-Kaimak,
signifying that it is the hill whence they espy the signal
smoke denoting the approach of the Indians from the north.
We remained five days in this encampment, a general
uneasiness prevailing, and arms being kept ready to hand.
In addition to the usual hunting, under the orders of the
cacique, we were engaged in performing exercises on horse-
back ; this mounted drill being intended as a_ preparation in
case we should find the northern Tehuelches at war with the
Araucanos or Manzaneros Indians. The plains to the west-
ward abounded with guanaco, some thousands being enclosed
in the circle at one time. One day that I had not accompanied
the hunting party, I was strolling across the camp, having
volunteered to occupy the post of the vidette on an adjacent
hill, when I observed a guanaco, very tired, coming towards
me ; so, hiding behind a bush, I waited till he unsuspiciously
approached, and then rushing out, balled him with a pair of
ostrich bolas. As he was so close to me, his forelegs were
perfectly tied up, and I had not much difiiculty in desj)atching
him with a blow on the head from another set of bolas. By
this time I had attained tolerable dexterity in the use of the
bolas, and it was my invariable custom when not otherwise
employed to stroll about and practise. Besides their use,
my practical training had enabled me soon to acquire the
H
98 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAIsS. [Ca. III.
art of manufacturing them, and our many idle hours were em-
ployed in plaiting ostrich sinews, so that I contrived to fit up
an extensive assortment, some of which I used to barter for
tobacco. The weather during our stay here became worse,
rain, sleet, and gales of wind prevailing ; and the toldos, from
the continuous rain and the marshy nature of the ground,
became so wet and wretched as to be almost uninhabitable,
so that we marched on the 16th over a level pampa — smoke
to the eastward being observed and duly answered during
the journey. We encamped at night on the north side of a
small rapid stream, in a place called ' Pelwecken,' situated
a league from the wooded river, the trees of which were
visible from the encampment. I here saw a new game played
by the Indians which resembled that known amongst school-
boys as ' knucklebones,' being played with small stones in
lieu of the bones, and heavy stakes were lost and won on
the chances. On Sunday, the 17th, the Indians started to
hunt in the vicinity of the wooded river, and Casimiro pro-
posed that I should accompany him to the woods to cut poles
for the toldos, and timber for working saddles. Orkeke,
however, for some reason or another, recommended me to
stay quietly in the toldos ; and, as advice is sometimes almost
the same as a command, I acquiesced, although longing to
enjoy a close view of a tree again after so much wandering over
the treeless pampas. As the day was warm and fine, I strolled
down the river in search of the eggs of the upland goose
(Chloephaga magellanica), yellow-billed goose (Cygnus cos-
coroba), and other water fowl, and returned about 2 p.m. with
plenty of spoil. The women were superintending the cook-
ing of some of these, when one of them rushed into the toldo
and cried out that the Indians were returning and a fight
had taken place. A glance at the coming horsemen was at
once sufficient to convince us that she was right. They came
galloping back by twos and threes, swords drawn, mantles
hanging off their shoulders, and their faces glowing with
fury. They at once proceeded to get their guns and revolvers
to renew the fight. Orkeke, however, arrived and made a
long speech, and ultimately quiet was restored. One man —
Ch. III.] WATER TIGERS. 99
a brother of Camillo — had been killed and left on the pampa.
The sister of the deceased was frantic at his death, and,
arming herself with a knife, attempted to avenge him ; but
she was soon stopped, disarmed and quieted. The deceased
was armed with a six-shooter, and his assailant had only a
sword ; one shot missed him and the next barrel missed fire,
whereupon he closed and ran his adversary through the body.
Casimiro returned shortly after the remainder, and when he
heard of the fight and the result, was for some time eager
to renew it and avenge the slain man, who was a relation of
his own, but at last yielded to Orkeke's arguments. The
following day the smoke to the east appeared pretty close,
and, when we had marched on a little, two young men were
despatched in its direction with private instructions from
Orkeke, and we proceeded to the wooded river, where we
luxuriated for a short time under the shade of a description
of birch tree and then forded tlie stream, which is of con-
siderable width and very rapid. The Indians declared that
it was impossible for any man to swim across the river in
the deeper portion below the ford, on account of some fero-
cious beasts which they termed water tigers — ' Tigres de
I'agua ' — which would certainly attack and devour anyone
in the water. They described them as yellow quadrupeds,
larger than puma. It is certain that two ostriches which,
being too poor for use, had been left on the bank, were found
hy us next day in the shallow water, torn and half devoured,
and the tracks of an animal resembling those of a large puma
were plainly visible leading down to the water ; but a puma
invariably drags its prey to a bush; and, though jaguar
will take the water readily, I have never known one devour
its prey except on land, nor, as far as I know, are they
found so far south. The animal may be a species of the
large brown otter with orange-coloured far on the breast,
found in the Parana ; but the Indians' account is curious as
bearing on the name of the lake — ' Nahuel Huapi,' or Tigers'
Island. It is possible that the aguarra found in the valley of
the Rio Negro may also haunt these districts. They farther
told me that stags had been seen on the banks of the river^
100 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
but none were heard of during our stay in the neighbour-
hood. A few miles below the ford the belt of trees ceases,
and on the southern side there is a peculiar group of what
seem to be square-shaped rocks, which at a distance have
very much the appearance of a small town regularly built and
walled. This is called by the Indians ' Sengel,' and was the
scene of a great fight between the Tehuelches and Araucauos
many years ago, relics of which in the shape of bones and
skulls still whiten the plain. After crossing the river,
the yoimg men who had been sent back returned, bringing
with them three horses belonging to the Chilians and one
man of their party, who, incredible as it seems, had assisted
the Indians to dismount and disable his companions. The
particulars of the fate of the others were not divulged, though
a story was current that some of them had managed to reach
the Chupat. I asked no questions, but the blood-stained
knife of one of the young men told its own story. This day
all the Indians rode on in silence, the last two days' events
having roused all their bad passions. I rode alone, feeling
that there was danger in the air, and near our halting place
joined Orkeke and two others at a fireside for the purpose of
cooking some ostrich eggs, which we were busily discussing
when a messenger came to say that Casimiro was waiting to
see me at a spot which he indicated. I mounted and rode
off accordingly, but had not gone far before the two bravos
who had been commissioned to do for the Chilians galloped
up, one from either side, one brandishing his sword and the
other swinging his bolas. I at once put spurs to my horse,
and my mantle flying back discovered two revolvers belted
round my waist underneath it. They checked their career
and sang out, ' Stop ! Where are you going ? ' But, without
making any reply, I galloj)ed on, being not further interfered
with, and soon joined my old friend. He then informed me
that, being utterly disgusted with the late proceedings and
general anarchy, he had determined to push forward by himself
to meet the Northern Indians, leaving his wife and children
under the charge of Cayuke. He therefore wanted the
letters which I had written for him, and my own, which he
Cu. III.] lEON ORES. 101
undertook to forward at tlie same time. So I rode back to
the toldos for the letters, which I carried to Casimiro without
anyone attempting to stop my way.
Having returned to the fire under the bush, I dismounted,
and whilst cooking another egg, gave Orkeke a piece of my
mind; quietly hinting that I carried ten lives about me.
He assured me it was all a mistake, and had happened with-
out any orders from him, the young fellows only wishing to
try my mettle by way of joke. I replied that jokes of that
sort were sometimes dangerous, and the subject was mutually
dropped.
We encamped by the side of a stream, into which many of
us soon plunged to take a refreshing bath, always a favourite
enjoyment with the Tehuelches, who are powerful swimmers,
and dive well. While resting here and sporting in the water
a better state of feeling arose, and the mutual suspicion and
discord which had so long prevailed was gradually forgotten.
Casimiro had left, taking one of the Chilians ; and his spouse
told me, amid a torrent of abuse of her better half, that he
had gone through fear, the other Indians having determined
to kill him ; and she added that he had the heart of a skunk,
a vulture, and an a:fmadillo. These combined would make a
very nice mixture. That he was right in making his escape
at this particular juncture was very evident, for the next day
two young men were sent out, ostensibly as chasquis or
messengers, to look for the Northern Indians, but in reality
to try and overtake Casimiro and dispose of him ; however,
they returned without any tidings of the wily old chief.
In the range of hills described as visible from Kaimak,
there is a mine or vein of iron ore, about a mile due west
from the brook, and marked by a large mass of white quartz.
This is used by the Indians in the manufacture of bolas, and
an excursion was made to it. We brought back numerous
pieces, some of which, now in my possession, have been ex-
amined, and pronounced to be brown and magnetic iron ore.
The Indians also told me that some leagues to the east of
this spot a mass of iron, having, as well as could be gathered
from their account, the shape of a bar-shot, lies in the middle
102 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. III.
of a barren plain, and is regarded bj them witb superstitious
awe. Whether tbis be an aerolite, or has anj connection
■witb tbe ore on tbe hill side, it was not in my power to
determine, for in the critical state of feeling then prevalent
a visit of inspection was impracticable.
On the 22nd of October we- marched a few miles, always
following the line of hills, and in a northerly course. Ostrich
eggs still formed the main staple of food, and furnished a
diet sufficiently nuti-itious, but producing all the effects of a
course of * Banting.' Fortunately this day two of us killed
fat pumas, some steaks off which broiled, by way of variety,
were an acceptable addition to the evening meal ; but from
experience I should advise all travellers to boil their puma.
We encamped in a small gorge in the hills, directly under a
peculiarly pointed rock, which is called Yowlel, or Ship Rock,
from its resemblance to a ship under sail, and is regarded
with superstition by the Indians, who believe that all who
endeavour to ascend it in the calmest weather will, on ar-
riving at the summit, have their mantles blown to pieces by
furious gusts of wind.
The next day- — a glorious morning, after a night's rain —
we proceeded in the same direction ; and while waiting for
the heavy baggage, in the shape of the women and children,
several of us repaired to a regular racecourse — a beaten track
six feet wide, extending for almost three miles, level and free
from stones, though rather sandy. Here we had trials of the
speed of our horses to while away the interval ; and when
the women appeared, proceeded to the chase, over a pampa
formed by a bend in the range of hills. During the hunt
we found the carcase of a guanaco, which had been killed by
a puma, carefully covered up in grass and scrub. It was a
fat animal, such as the puma always singles out, although I
have read in some accounts that he follows the herds and
picks up the weakly ones. That this is not the case was
proved on various occasions, by finding the carcases left by
these cats, which were always those of animals in good con-
dition. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the encampment,
Cii III.j PEKCH FISHING. 103
by the side of a small river, flowing in an easterly direction
from the hills. The women, with the exception of one or
two, were not present, and might be seen about two miles off,
grubbing up a description of potato which grew in the neigh-
bouring hill side. The day was warm, and Orkeke invited
me to go to the top of one of the hills to see if any smoke or
signs of Indians were visible. We accordingly crossed the
stream, and while riding along the northern bank I observed
fish swimming lazily on the top of the water. After crossing
a marshy patch of ground, we ascended the hills, and dis-
mounting near a bank of blue earth, climbed on foot to the
summit, which was composed of a description of quartz, with
crystalline veins running through it. Scrambling up this
formation, we arrived at the top, whence we had a beautiful
view of the encampment and the green pasture bordering the
stream. To the northward the view was rather shut in by
hills rising to a considerable elevation. Just below us
lay a valley, in which several guanaco and ostriches were
taking their evening meal. We remained here for some
time smoking and enjoying the face of nature generally, but
could discern no smoke or signs of Indians. Orkeke remarked
that the pasture had a fresher appearance lower down the
course of the stream, and proposed that we should inspect
it. We accordingly descended from our elevated position,
mounted, and proceeded to the valley below ; in our descent
being lucky enough to kill a fat male ostrich, which was sit-
ting on a nest of twenty-four eggs. We investigated the grass,
which was of good quality ; and after an al fresco meal, in
which we were joined by Tchang, returned to the toldos,
where the women had just arrived with a considerable supply
of potatoes. I again, on our way back, observed fish in the
stream, so, turning my horse adrift, proceeded to extract my
hooks and line from the baggage under the charge of Mrs.
Orkeke. After a little delay all was ready ; a piece of meat
supplied the place of fly as bait ; and dropping it gently into
the pool, I soon had a bite, and pulled out a fish about two
pounds weight, of the perch class, similar to that called
104 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. [Cii. III.
dorado in the Eiver Plate. After half- an- hour's fishing I
landed several others as large, and as it was nearly dark,
returned to supper off fried fish and boiled potatoes.
I had no opportunity of seeing the plants which produced
these tubers, but they exactly resembled those I afterwards
obtained in the northern country from a plant, the feathery
fern-like leaf of which springs from a long slender stem.
The following day we shifted camp down river, to the neigh-
bourhood of the green pasture, and found large quantities of
the eggs of the upland geese, ducks, &c. In the neigh-
bourhood one lonely tree grew by the side of the stream,
although the banks were lined with driftwood, probably car-
ried down from the wooded slopes of the Cordillera, ten miles
farther west, during floods. This day, smoke having been dis-
tinctly seen to the northward, Hummums was despatched to
ascertain whether it were a signal from the much-looked-for
Northern Indians. Three days subsequently, about nine in
the evening, whilst I was lying dreaming of home, and had
just — in dreamland — taken a glass of sherry, Orkeke woke
me up with the intelligence that fires were to be seen to the
north, which were no doubt caused by the ' chasqui ' or mes-
senger previously despatched. In about three hours' time
— somewhere about midnight — Casimiro, Hummums, and
another Indian rode into the camp, and our toldo was soon
crowded to hear the news from our chasqui, who stated that
the Northern Indians were in the wild cattle district, where
they had killed several animals; they were also well pro-
vided with tobacco and other necessaries from the Rio Negro,
where they had been for trading purposes in August, and
they would welcome our party, provided that they came in a
friendly spirit. The following morning we had a great con-
sultation in Crime's toldo, at which it was determined that
all quarrels should be forgotten, and that we should march
at once to effect a junction with the other Indians. This
having been resolved on, all marched in an easterly direction
to an encampment situated on the borders of the same
stream, and under a range of hills called ' Appleykaik.' Here
we remained three days ; and smoke not previously accounted
Ch. III.] CASIMIEO'S ESCAPE. 105
for having been observed to the east, two scouts were sent
out to ascertain the cause, but returned without intelligence.
We spent our time, as usvial, in bunting, or bathing in the
river; and on October 31 marched again, and had not gone
very far, in a north-east direction, before Tankelow — who
had started earlier than the rest, and constituted himself a
corps cf ohservation — appeared, with a strange Indian of the
Pampa tribe, who stated that his companions were on their
way to join the Northern Indians. Thej had come from the
neighbourhood of the Chupat colony, and were, as far as I
could make out, mixed Pampas and Tehuelches. It was
agreed that they should join us and the others at a place
called ' Henno,' to which we were at present marching.
We continued our route after this slight interruption, and
encamped for the night near the banks of a small stream.
The weather had entirely changed, the wind blowing bitterly
from the south-west, with squalls of sleet, hail, and snow ;
and but few of the party found it agreeable to take the evening
bath. Casimiro was in high spirits, as many of the Northern
Indians were relations of his, and he was to be invested with
the supreme command — in prospect of which he had already
received presents of horses, and was looking forward to the
consultation of the chief, which, he assured me, would have
to be conducted with great pomp. During our talk, Casimiro
narrated all his adventures after quitting the toldos. He
had travelled so fast, knowing that he would probably be
pursued, that on the fifth day his horse broke down, as for
two days previous he had seen smoke from some encampment
to which he was by this time close, though he was uncertain
whether it was that of his friends or not. He left his Chilian
companion, and proceeded to an eminence to reconnoitre.
During his absence the Chilian fell asleep ; the grass caught
fire and surrounded the sleeping man. The Indians — Hin-
chel's people — attracted by the smoke, came down and res-
cued him, all his clothes having been burned off and his body
severely scorched. Having heard his story, Hinchel at once
sent a party to search for Casimiro. When the latter saw
the five mounted Indians approaching, wrapped in their
106 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. [Ch. III.
ponclios, he was uncertain if tliey were Arancanos or Telmel-
ches, and drew his revolver, prepared to pick them off in
detail; but soon, to his great relief, he recognised in the
leader a relation of his own. He also told me that when
Hummums, our chasqui, arrived, he was entertained by some
friend of his own, to whom, in the evening, he boasted
that he and his friends had killed all the Christians id
their camp. This story was at once carried to Hinchel
and Casimiro, who inquired if ' Muster ' had also been
killed ; to which the tale-bearer unhesitatingly replied that
he had. Hinchel, who had previously heard all about
the English visitor from Casimiro, was furious at what he
considered a grave breach of hospitality, and issued orders
forthwith to apprehend the chasqui, and to mount and make
ready to avenge my supposed death by killing Orkeke and
all his party. Hummums, however, when interrogated as a
prisoner, in great terror declared that * Muster ' was safe,
and that no one had any idea of killing him, and then the
storm blew over. But this account, which was confirmed by
the report of the chasqui, accidentally overheard by myself,
prepared me to meet Hinchel with feelings of friendliness
towards a chief who had evinced so keen a sense of the care
to be taken of a stranger who had confided himself to Indian
hospitality; and the impression of this chief's character
then formed, was fully confirmed on further acquaintance
with him.
The two following days our route lay through a succession
of rather barren valleys, bordered by ranges of high hills,
everywhere strewn with rocks and boulders, and having a
very gaunt and weird appearance. The valleys generally
contained good pasture on either the northern or southern
side of the streams which flowed down every one ; but away
from the vicinity of the water the soil was sandy, with low
bushes scattered here and there.
On November 2nd, about 2 p.m., we arrived at a pass or
gorge above the rendezvous at Henno. The view of the
valley below was very refreshing; green grassy plains
stretched for some miles, with a beautiful silvery stream run-
Ch. III.] ARRIVAL AT HENNO. 107
iiing down the centre. But, mucli to our disappointment,
no signs of Indians were visible ; so we descended, and after
bathing in a pool, and waiting until the toldos were pitched,
lighted a big signal fire, which was shortly answered to the
westward, and a messenger was immediately despatched who
returned towards nightfall with the intelligence that the ex-
pected people would arrive next day ; and we had to recon-
cile ourselves to another night of anxiety, being not at all
certain as to the reception to be expected from the new-
comers.
108 AT HOltfE WITH THE PATAGONIAIsS. [Ch. IV.
CHAPTER TV.
HE^^!fOKAIK TO TECKEL.
Ceremonial of Welcome. — Hincbel's ludians. — Teliuelclies and Araucanos.
— Jackechan and the Chupat Tribe. — My examination. — Encampment at
Ileuno. — Peaceful Occupations. — The Oldest Inhabitant. — Chiriq. — The
Hidden Cities. — Modern Legends. — Mysteries of the Cordillera. — Los
Cesares. — La Ciudad Encantada. — Its Whereabouts. — The Indian
Cesares. — The Guanaco. — The Patagonian Ostrich. — Neighbourhood of
Chiriq. — Horseraciug. — Indiixn Horses. — Indian Dogs. — Dog and Lover.
— Plaiting Sinews. — Windy Hill. — Surrounded by Fire. — Young Gua-
naco.— Arrival of Grog. — News from Santa Criiz. — Gisk. — Romantic
Scenery. — A Pleasant Neighbourhood. — Fairy Glen. — Breaking a Horse.
—Female Curiosity.— The Wild Cattle Country.- The Forests of the
Cordillera. — The Watershed. — Among the Mountains. — Wild Flowers.
—A Bull Fioht.— The Bull Victorious.- No Christmas Beef.— Teckel.
— Change of Quarters.
As we were wLiling away the next forenoon in fishing and dis-
porting ourselves generally in the water, smoke was descried
at various points to the westward, and about 2 p.m. the head
of the heavy column of women, children, and innumerable
horses came into view on the northern side of the valley.
All instantly repaired to the toldos, accoutred ourselves, and
got up the horses in preparation for the arrival of the
visitors; the meeting of any number of Indians after a
separation being recognised as an affair of considerable
importance. Shortly after our horses were caught and
saddled, and, indeed, before some of our party were ready,
the men who had been hunting en route appeared, and the
ceremonial of welcome was duly observed.
Both parties, fully armed, dressed in their best, and
mounted on their best horses, formed into opposite lines.
The Northern Indians presented the gayest appearance,
displaying flannel shirts, ponchos, and a great show of silver
Ch. IV.] HINCHELS INDIANS. ]Cf)
spurs and ornamental bridles. The chiefs then rode up and
down, dressing the ranks and haranguing their men, who
kept up a continual shouting of ' Wap, Wap, Wap.' I fell in
as a private, though Casimiro had vainly endeavoured to
induce me to act as ' Capitanejo ' or officer of a party.
The Buenos Ayrean colours were proudly displayed on our
side, while the Northerns carried a white weft, their ranks
j)resenting a much better drilled aspect than our ill-
disciplined forces. Messengers or hostages were then ex-
changed, each side deputing a son or brother of the chief for
that purpose ; and the new comers advanced, formed into
columns of threes, and rode round our ranks, firing their
guns and revolvers, shouting and brandishing their swords
andbolas. After galloping round at full speed two or three
times, they opened ranks, and charged out as if attacking an
enemy, shouting ' Koue ' at every blow or thrust. The object
of attack was supposed to be the ' Gualichu ' or demon, and
certainly the demon of discord had need to be exorcised.
Hinchel's party then halted and reformed their line, while
we, in our turn, executed the same manoeuvres. Afterwards
the Caciques advanced and formally shook hands, making,
each in turn, long and complimentary speeches. This was
repeated several times, the etiquette being to answer only
' Ahon' or Yes, until the third repetition, when all begin to
talk, and formality is gradually laid aside. It was rather a
surprise to find etiquette so rigorously insisted on, but these
so-called savages are as punctilious in observing the proper
forms as if they were Spanish courtiers.
These Northern Tehuelches, under the command of Hinchel,
usually frequent the country lying between the Rio Nef>-ro
and the Eiver Sengel, and once a year, about July, visit the
settlement of Patagones, where their stay is generally short,
only sufficient for them to barter their furs and feathers, and
for the chiefs at the same time to receive their rations of
mares, cattle, ponchos, yerba, tobacco, &c., allowed by the
Government of Buenos Ayres. By the time we met them in
November they had little to show of the gains of their
August visit to Eio Negro except a few mares and gay-
110 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
coloured ponclios. Hinchel, however, owned two or three
liead of cattle which were said to have been caught at the
head of the Chupat valley, being supposed to be stray cattle
belonging to the Welsh settlers. Some of the Indians had still
also a little yerba left, and tobacco in plenty ; and on the occa-
sion of the welcome many were dressed in coloured ponchos,
chiripas, and some in leathern boots. With arms they were
passably well provided, guns and revolvers being in propor-
tion of about one to four men. During the time that we
were occupied in the ceremony the women of the newly-
ari'ived party busied themselves in pitching their toldos ; and
shortly after we had returned to our camp, which was a
little apart from that of the new comers, and appeared very
small and insignificant when contrasted with theirs, the
Cacique came over, and presented mares, horses, and other
gifts to the chiefs of our party; and a grand feast was
celebrated in our toldos. Many of the new comers rode
over, two or sometimes three mounted on one horse, and
would, if not acquainted with the inmates, stop in front of a
toldo and look in for a few minutes, then ride on to another,
and so on. As these were mostly young men, their real
object was probably to reconnoitre the young ladies. One,
however, who, though undistinguishable from the Indians in
appearance, and who looked like an Araucano, but was
really by birth a Spaniard, having been carried off in his
childhood from a settlement, brought over a pack of cards,
and some of our party were soon deep in a game of siete, at
which the stranger being a proficient, soon cleared them
out completely.
^ext day I paid a visit to Hinchel. He spoke no Spanish,
but he managed to converse, and he asked me if the Southern
Tehuelches were not a queer lot, for he had heard that they
killed men as readily as they would guanaco. From what
Casimiro had reported, I was already inclined to respect this
Cacique, who had expressed such readiness to protect or
avenge a guest of the Indians, and closer acquaintance only
strengthened my regard for him. He was a fine-looking
man, with a pleasant, intelligent countenance, which was not
Cii. IV.] CASIMIRO CHIEF OF THE TEHUELCHES.
belied by bis disposition. He never, to my knowledge,
exceeded sobriety, and was good-bumoured and self-possessed;
tbougb if once roused to figbt, his resolute and determined
•courage was well known. He was skilled at all sorts of
bandicraft, and was always busily employed. He was
generous to a fault — ready to give away everything if asked
for it, and often without the asking. His great weakness
was an inveterate fondness for gambling, which, together
with his lavish good nature, eventually impoverished him
greatly. At his request. I informed Casimiro and Orkeke
that he desired to hold a parlemento. Accordingly, the
chiefs all proceeded to a place agreed upon between the two
camps, where they took their seats in a circle on the grass.
After various harangues from Hinchel and others, it was
resolved that Casimiro should be elected chief in command
of the Tehuelches ; and that after the expiration of the young
guanaco season, all present, together with those expected
from the neighbourhood of the Chupat, should proceed to a
place called Teckel, and thence march to Las Manzanas, to
unite there with the Araucanian Indians, some of whom had
already communicated with us, and had promised to forward
my letters, via Las Manzanas, to Rio Negro.
] The relations between the Tehuelches or Tsonecas of Pata
gonia and the Araucanian Indians of Las Manzanas had been
C^reviously by no means of a pacific nature. It has been
already mentioned that near the Sengel we passed the scene
of a fierce battle between them. Tankelow bore still the
scars of seven lance wounds received in a battle when he was
left for dead on the field. On the same occasion Orkeke was
taken prisoner, but, although mutilated, succeeded eventually
in effecting his escape. Casimiro's father also became a pri-
soner in an unsuccessful assault on an Araucanian strong-
hold. After two or three years' captivity he succeeded, with
two of his comrades, in escaping, and while hurrying to re-
join the Tehuelches in the vicinity of Geylum, met with a
solitary Araucanian. He seeing a fire, approached unsuspi-
cious of danger, and was welcomed and invited to smoke ;
they then seized him, stripped and bound him hand and foot.
112 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONL\.NS. [Ch. IV.
and left him lying on the pampa, a helpless prey to the con-
dors and pumas. The two fugitives, having thus gratified
their desire for vengeance, succeeded in rejoining their own
people, and organised an attack on the Araucanos, in which
Casimiro's father was killed. Some wonderful feats of
valour were described to me as having been achieved by the
Tehuelches ; but in fact the Manzaneros proved themselves
the superior warriors, and even at the time of our visit to
them had Tehuelche slaves. The powerful cacique Lenque-
trou succeeded in healing the old feuds, and united all
the Indians under his leadership. He was treacherously
killed by an Argentine officer at Bahia Blanca during the
peace between the Indians and the Christians, and after his
death the old quarrels broke out afresh. Casimiro's diplo-
macy, however, succeeded during the time of my visit in con-
ciliating all parties, and the result appeared in the amicable
arrangements concluded at the Parlemento, and afterwards
successfully carried out. Had it not been for this, my journey
to Las Manzanas, and thence to the Rio Negro, would have
been dangerous, if not altogether impossible.
Two days after the arrival of the Northern party the
Indians from the Chupat came in, and were duly welcomed
by our united forces, the ceremonial on this occasion pre-
senting a very animated scene. They numbered between
seventy and eighty men, with women and children, occupying
about twenty toldos. Most of them were young men of
Pampa, or mixed Pampa and Tehuelche blood, but there
were a few pure Tehuelches in their ranks, their chief being
a Pampa named ' Jackechan,' or Juan. As I watched them
drawn up, or careering round us during the welcome, they
appeared to present a different type from that of my first
friends, being generally shorter, though as muscular, and
even apparently more broadly built, with complexions lighter,
and theu" dress and persons smarter and cleaner. They were
all well armed with lances and firearms, and were evidently
kept well in hand by the chief. Their range of country lay
between the same limits as that of Hinchel's people, but
they habitually seemed to have kej)t more to the sea-coast.
Ch. IV.] JACKECHAN AND THE CHUPAT TRIBE. 113
where many of them had been accustomed to visit the Welsh
colony at the Chupat for trade, and in their opinion, as after-
wards expressed to me, the honest Welsh colonists were
much pleasanter and safer to deal with than ' the Christians '
of the Eio Negro. They seemed to have been especially
impressed with the size and excellence of the home-made
loaves, one of which would be given in return for half a
guanaco, and Jackechan often expatiated on the liberality of
the colonists and the goodness of their bread. These men
also felt strongly the kindness with which an Indian, if over-
taken with rum, would be covered up or carried into an out-
house by the Chupat people ; whereas at the Kio Negro the
only attention paid to him would be to strip and plunder him
completely. During the afternoon the chief, Jackechan, sent
a request to the ' Englishman ' to pay him a visit, so I re-
paired to his toldo, and was courteously received by him.
He wore a beautifully- wrought silver chain, with a medallion
of the Madonna suspended to it, of which he seemed par-
donably proud. Having been invited to take a seat, and the
pipe having been duly pa,ssed round, it became evident that
I was to be tested as to my real claims to the character of an
Englishman. Jackechan, during his visits to the Chupat,
had become acquainted with Mr. Lewis Jones, the Director of
the colony, and so had learned the name of the Queen of
England, &c., and he proceeded to interrogate me accord-
ingly. I found him to be a most intelligent Indian, speaking
Spanish, Pampa, and Tehuelche fluently ; and our acquaint-
ance thus commenced ripened into a strong mutual frien*^.-
shij). My answers proving quite satisfactory, he was
evidently much pleased, and ordered his wife to produce
coffee, a little of which he had still remaining from his store
procured at Chupat. Whilst discussing this luxury, we had
a long conversation on various topics, and he produced a
photograph of Mr. Jones and some letters, one being an
order for a ration of animals, mares and cattle, from the
Argentine Government. He stated that he had not visited
Patagones for some years, on account of a fight that had
taken place, but would perhaps now accompany our party.
I
114 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAXS. [Ch. IV.
Whilst conversing, his son, a boy of some twelve years of
age, came in and startled me by his unlikeness to the other
Indian boys, for his brown hair and eyes and fair complexion
might easily have caused one to take him for an English boy.
His mother was not present, as, for domestic reasons, Jacke-
chan had parted with her ; but I subsequently saw her, and
she, although a handsome woman, had no European traits
about her except that of having quarrelled with her husband.
The following day was spent in a second parlemento — or, as
the Indians call it, ' aix ' — and all agreed to place themselves
under the orders of Casimiro, for the purpose of protecting
Patagones in the possible event of an invasion by the Indians
of EiOuke, or ' Calficura,' from the country north of Rio
Negro. All present saw the importance of protecting Pata-
gones, as, if that town should be destroyed, there would be
no market for their furs, &c.
Our encampment was situated in a large grassy valley
watered by a stream flowing to the eastward, which was
finally lost in a large marsh. The valley, which may have
been about twelve miles in length and perhaps four in width
at its broadest part, was confined by hills which, closing,
narrowed it in at the eastern and western extremities. To
the N.W. and N. the hills — which almost merited the name
of mountains — were peculiarly rugged, more especially to-
wards their summits. About N.N.E. by comjjass from our
camp, there was a pass formed by a dip or break in the
range leading north, and through the mouth of the pass we
could see the smoke of the hunting parties of the Araucanian
Indians, who were, however, many leagues distant. Through-
out Patagonia smoke is always visible at a great distance,
and the practised eyes of the Indians can distinguish it from
the clouds, when ordinary persons would be unable to dis-
cern it unless pointed out to them. On the southern and
eastern sides of the valley lay a range of hills, the rugged
summits of which rose from lower slopes of more regular
swell, and presenting more even and down-like surfaces than
those on the western and northern sides. Immediately above
our encampment the hill of Henno, from which the valley is
Ch. IV.] encajMPment at henno. 115
named, rose from tlie plain. Near tlie summit of this liill
Orkeke and myself, who for amusement had ridden up to it,
one day came across the bleached skeleton of a man, perhaps
one of two young Argentines who, as I was subsequently in-
formed, had travelled thus far in company with the Indians,
and had been for some — or no — reason killed by them near
this spot. In the surrounding hills red porphyry frequently
cropped out, and also veins of a red agate, unlike the flint
agate so common in all the plains of Patagonia. The rocks
near the summits of the hills were generally of igneous
formation, and on the slopes of these hills frequent springs
gushed out, easily discoverable from a distance by the vivid
green of the grass growing round them. As we gazed down
from the height of Henno, the valley lay before us like a
picture ; our few toldos were situated in a group to the
east, on the south side of the stream ; about a quarter of a
mile to the north the thirty or forty toldos of the Northern
Indians were pitched, and opposite to them, on the north
side of the stream, those of the party commanded by Jackechan
or Juan. The scene was animated but peaceful : here might
be seen a party of young men playing at ball, in another a
man breaking a colt, and down by the side of the stream
groups of girls bathing, or wandering in the swamps picking
the wild spinach which grew all along the margin of the
water in great quantities. One day I went on an excursion
with the children to pluck spinach and plunder the nests of
wild ducks and upland geese, from which we returned laden
with spoil, and in the evening a stew, a la Tehuelche, was
made with ostrich grease, spinach, and eggs, which combina-
tion was universally approved of. Another day we went
fishing, and after catching several with a hook and line,
voted it slow work, so contrived a net by sewing two ponchos
together, and wading into the stream dragged the shallow
parts, and, notwithstanding the duck weed, which rather
impeded us, made several good hauls, the take consisting
of the perch-like fish and a black species of cat-fish: the
Indians, however, except Casimiro, would not eat the fish, and
evidently regarded ray enjoyment of them much as an
I %
116 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. 1Y'.
Englishman would at first view their appreciation of blood.
Another day we went on an expedition to dig up a species
of root somewhat resembling a parsnip, but although we
grubbed about for an hour our efforts were only scantily
rewarded by a few small roots, which were given to the
children. One roasted in the ashes, at Mrs. Orkeke's invita-
tion I tasted, and found it rather tasteless and insipid.
During our stay in this pleasant resting-place the weather
was bright and sunny, and on calm days warm, and the
absence of rain almost made it appear like summer; but
whenever the west wind blew, the piercing cold dispelled the
passing illusion. The long delay which was necessary to
recruit our horses, in anticipation of a campaign against
the young guanaco and the wild cattle, was most acceptable
to all the members of our party ; and after the two preceding
months of quarrels, real and suspected dangers, and forced
marches, our present peaceable existence, though devoid of
adventure, was thoroughly enjoyable. An occasional hunting
party, interchange of visits and card parties with the recent
arrivals, fishing, foraging for birds' eggs, spinach, &c., with
some flirting, and, by way of business, a parlemento or two,
made our time pass merrily enough at Henno.
Our hunting parties were under the direction of 'the
oldest inhabitant,' an aged cacique called Gruenalto, with
venerable white hair, and who had been crippled by a lance-
thrust, received, to his honour be it said, while endeavour-
ing to mediate between two of his friends. His great age
and amiable character commanded universal respect ; and
en a hunting morning he would sit under a bush and speechify
for half an hour, recounting old deeds of prowess, and ex-
horting us to do our best. The old man was a frequent and
welcome visitor at our toldo, where he was encouraged to
indulge to his heart's content in long-winded stories. My
compass greatly excited his curiosity, and he took it into his
head that it possessed a magical power which could effect
the restoration of the use of his arm. He accordingly begged
to be allowed to hold it in his hand ; and sat patiently, with
an air of awe and faith combined, for an hour, afterwards
Cii. IV.] THE OLDEST INHABITANT. 117
declaring that the operation had done him much good. We
greatly pleased him by repairing his coat of mail, a complete
tunic of heavy iron chains, of unknown antiquity, bound
together by strips of hide, and weighing over a hundred-
weight. This he informed me he only put on to defend him-
self from ' foolish Indians.'
His use of my compass was rivalled by the custom of
other friends, who were wont to borrow it when engaged in
a game of cards ; their belief being that the magic instru-
ment gave luck to the happy possessor for the time being ;
and I often thought that it was fortunate I had brought no
other instrument, as 'shooting the sun' would have been
certainly regarded as a piece of sorcery, and any death or
accident happening afterwards would have been visited on
the head of the magician. As it was, my taking notes was
often regarded with suspicious curiosity, and inquiries made
as to what there could possibly be in that place to write
about, as although the Tehuelche mind can comprehend
writing letters to friends or officials, it by no means under-
stands keeping a journal ; and ' some untutored Indian'
might probably, if suspicious that 'i'faith he'll prent it,'
instead of waiting to cut up the book, anticipate all re-
viewers by cutting up the intended author himself.
On the 18th of November the camp at Henno was broken
up, and all marched a few leagues to the west, crossing suc-
cessive rocky ridges running parallel to the Cordillera, and
divided by well-watered valleys, and encamped near a vaUey
watered by the same river, which between this place and
Henno makes a considerable bend. This station was named
' Chiriq,' from a description of bush, with a leaf somewhat
resembling that of the sloe, which grows abundantly on the
banks of the stream. The wood of this shrub is soft and of
little value, but burns well when dry. At this time neither
flower nor fruit was visible, but it was described to me as
bearing a berry resembling the currant. Since our departure
from the wooded river Sengel, a description of cactus, or, as
the Spaniards call it, tuna, bearing a tasteless fruit some-
thing like the ordinary prickly pear, had been met with
118 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
occasionally, and found very troublesome, for as it grows close
to the ground its Si^ines are very apt to lame the horses if not
carefully avoided in the chase. From Chiriq a large plain
appeared to extend for some leagues to the westward, bounded
north and south by a wooded range of hills, and extending
apparently to the bases of the lofty snow- covered peaks of
the Cordillera, which appeared to form a complete barrier.
During our stay here an incident occurred which led to
the collection and comparison of the traditions concerning
the hidden or enchanted city which still are current and
believed among the Indians and Chilotes.
One day while hunting we were startled by a loud report,
as of the discharge of a cannon, and looking to the west saw
a black cloud of smoke hanging above the peaks of the Cor-
dillera. My companion Jackechan told me that on several
previous visits to this station the Indians had observed
similar columns of smoke in the same direction. On one
occasion so convinced were they that it was caused by human
agency, that a party set out to endeavour to penetrate the
forests and reach the dwellings of the unknown residents,
which the smoke was believed to point out. They proceeded
some distance into the recesses of the mountain forests, but
the extreme difficulties of travelling compelled them at last
to abandon their purpose and retrace their steps. It is of
course most probable that both the explosion and the smoke
proceeded from some unknown active volcano in the range ;
but the Indiaiis firmly believe in the existence either of an
unknown tribe, or of an enchanted, or hidden city. The
Araucanians when met with farther north had a story current
amongst them of having discovered a settlement of white
people, who spoke an unknown tongue, in the recesses of the
mountains in the same vicinit3\ The Chilotes and Chilians
from the western side fondly cherish the belief in the exist-
ence of La Ciudad Encantada, and the mythical people Los
Cesares, to the discovery of which, according to De Angelis —
to whose research is due the collection of all the records on
the subject — the attention of Buenos Ayres, Lima, and Chili
was so long directed. A Chilote or Yaldivian, named Juan
Ch. IV.] THE HIDDEN CITIES. 119
Antonio, narrated to me that be knew a man who was ac-
quainted with another who had heard from a third that the
last-named deponent was one of a party who visited the coast
opposite to Chiloe for the purpose of wood cutting. They as-
cended in their boat a river, which as described was probably
that the upper course of which we afterwards struck in the
Cordillera. Having reached the woods, they separated to cut
timber. One of their number was missing at the evening
camp-fire ; his comrades, however, waited for him, but gave
him up at last, and were already preparing to return, when
he rejoined them, and recounted a strange adventure. Deep
in the forest he had come upon a path, which he followed
for some distance, till he heard the sound of a bell, and saw
clearings, by which he knew himself to be near a town or
settlement. He soon met some white men, who made him
prisoner, and after questioning him as to the cause of his
being there, blindfolded him, and led him away to an exceed-
ingly rich city, where he was detained prisoner for several
days. At last he was brought back, still blindfolded, and
when the bandage was removed found himself near the place
of his capture, whence he made his way back to his comrades.
Juan Antonio, the narrator, and Mena, one of the Chilian
deserters who was present, fully believed this story, which,
howerer, bears a suspicious resemblance to one told a hun-
dred years before ; and both declared that it was all caused
by witchcraft or enchantment.
Another curious story was related to me, the hero of which
was a mischievous imp of twelve years old, who was after-
wards attached to my service as page, and for impudence
and uselessness might have been a page of the court of Louis
Quatorze. He had been in company with Fayel's tribe of
Indians and Valdivians in the neighbourhood of the Cor-
dillera. One day the hopeful boy was missed, and although
careful search was made, no traces of him were discoverable.
Three months afterwards he turned up again, dressed in the
same clothes and in remarkably good condition, his spirits
and impudence undiminished. My friend Ventura Delgado,
a white Valdivian, who was in the camp at the time of his
120 AT HOIVIE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
absence and return, vouclied from personal observation for
so mucli of the story. When questioned as to his wbere-
abouts and with whom he had been, he answered with con-
fidence, * With the man on the island in the lake.' There
was no known lake nearer than Nahuel-huapi, thirty miles
distant, though a chain of lakes must from old accounts
exist within the Cordillera ; and it certainly was strange how,
if he had wandered in the forests for so long a period, sub-
sisting on roots, strawberries, and the plant named talka, he
should have preserved his well-fed condition ; it was equally
puzzling to imagine why if made a captive by strangers he
should have been allowed to return.
Another curious fable was told by my guide J'aria, when
we were travelling from Punta Arena, apropos of the wild
animals in Patagonia, on which Lieut. Gallegos was enlarging.
J'aria asked if I had ever head of the Tranco, or Trauco,
which the Chilotes aver inhabits the western forests of the
Cordillera. Gallegos declared that there was no doubt of
its existence, and described it as possessing the form of a
wild man, covered with a fell of coarse shaggy hair. This
nondescript — a specimen of which would no doubt be in-
valuable to, though not met with on those coasts by Mr.
Darwin — is said to descend from the impenetrable forests
and attack the cattle, on which it preys. This is possibly a
pure invention, emanating from the aguardiente muddled
brain of a Chilian, but it seems to have a certain relation to
the vague stories of unknown wild tribes dwelling in the
unexplored and wooded mountain regions. It is hard to
convey the sense of mysterious space and undiscoverable
dwelling-places impressed on the spectator by the vast soli-
tudes of the mountains and forests of the Cordillera. The
inexplicable sounds of crashing rocks, or explosions from un-
known volcanoes, and the still stranger tones which resemble
bells and voices, all suggest to the ignorant and superstitious
natives confirmation of the strange circumstantial stories
handed down for several generations ; and it is hard for any-
one, even with the assistance of educated reason, to resist
the powerful spell of the legends told in sight of these
Ch. IV.] MYSTERIES OF THE CORDILLERA. 121
mysterious mountains. My readers will perhaps laugh, at the
narration of these vagaries of imagination, or will inquire
what is the legend of the Cesares, and of the enchanted city.
If they have read the delightful pages of * Westward Ho/
they will not be unacquainted with the shifting mirage of
that rich city ; which, from Mexico to the Magdalena,
mocked the search of so many eager adventurers. The Gran
Quivira of New Mexico, the fabled Iximaya, the El Dorado
of Guyana, and El Gran Paytiti of Brazil, the baseless fabrics
of ftiany a golden vision, are found repeated with change of
place and circumstances in this city of Los Cesares. There
is a curious combination of three distinct strands of legends
in the chain which connects the marvellous stories of the
Northern Indians and Chilotes with the accounts so circum-
stantially deposed to, and firmly believed by, the Spaniards
of the last century. The first is the conquest of Los Cesares
in 1539. Sebastian Cabot, from his settlement of Carcarahal
on the Parana, sent his pilot Cesar with 120 soldiers to
explore the river, 60 being left to garrison the fort;^ this
expedition proceeded as far as the junction of the Parana and
Paraguay, which latter river they ascended to the Laguna
Sta. Anna, on the way defeating the hostile Indians. They
reached the boundaries of the Guaranis, with whom they
made friendship and returned. They next set out to proceed
overland to Peru, and crossed the Cordillera. After making
their way against incredible difficulties, they reached a pro-
vince, the inhabitants of which were rich in cattle, vicuiias,
and gold and silver. The ruler of the province, ' a great
lord,' at whose capital they at last arrived, received his
Spanish visitors kindly, and entertained them with all
honour, until at their own choice they were allowed to re-
turn enriched with presents of gold and precious stuffs.
The Spaniards regained their fort on the Parana only to find it
a deserted ruin ; the Indians having surprised and massacred
the garrison. Cesar thereupon led his party to the settle-
ments, and thence started on another expedition, in which
he again crossed the Cordillera, and from a height beheld, as
' Fte. S. Espiritu.
122 AT H05IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. IV.
he imagined, the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic on either
hand, probably mistaking some large lagoon for the distant
Atlantic. He then made his way up the coast to Atacama,
and thence to Cuzco, at which city he joined the conquerors
just at the period of the capture of the ill-fated Inca
Atahuallpa.
This marvellous traverse of all the country was spoken of
ever after as the conquest of Los Cesares, and the whole
account was set forth by Ruy Diaz Guzman in 1612, whose
authority was one of the Conquistadores of Peru, named
Arzon, who had learned all the particulars from Don Cesar
himself in Cuzco. It does not seem, however, that more
than this name, and perha^js the tradition of the rich Indian
city, were preserved in the romantic rumours that began to
obtain currency in the seventeenth century, and continued
to gain credit till 1781, when the Fiscal of Chili, having
been charged to make inquiry, summed up in an elaborate
state paper all the evidence in favoiu- of the existence of a
rich and strong city, situated somewhere between 45° and
56° south, and urged the Spanish Government to authorise
an expedition to discover and take possession of it. The
city was described by various veracious (?) authorities as ' de-
fended by walls, ditches, and ravelins, the only entrance
being protected by a draw-bridge, besides which cautious
sentries were always stationed on an adjoining hill to detect
intrusive strangers. The buildings were sumptuously con-
structed, the houses being of wrought stone with azotea
roofs ; and the churches were covered with glittering roofs of
silver, and gorgeously furnished within. Of silver, too, were
all utensils, knives, and even ploughshares made ; and the
inhabitants used golden stools and seats. They were light
complexioned, with blue eyes and thick beards, and spoke a
language unintelligible to both Spaniards and Indians. They
wore jackets of blue cloth, yellow capes, and blue wadmal
drawers and loose silk trousers, with large boots and small
three-cornered hats ! They possessed numerous cattle, marked
with brands similar to those of the Spanish colonists; but their
principal article of cultivation was pepper, in which they
Cii. IV.] LA CIUDAD ENCANTADA. 123
traded with their neighbours, maiutaining withal a complete
system of exclusive isolation.' By one account the popula-
tion was composed of the descendants of the crews of several
ships which had been wrecked in the Straits of Magellan
from 1523 to 1539, the survivors of which had made their
way overland and founded a settlement. A wandering
padre was said to have received the news of its existence
from some Indians, accompanied by a knife as a token, which
was recognised as having belonged to the captain of a
stranded vessel. The padre set out to discover his country-
men, but lost his life on the road. Another more precise
tradition declared that the surviving inhabitants of Osorno,
after having maintained a heroic defence against the Arau-
canians, under the victorious chief Caupolican, in 1539,
made good their escape with their families and cattle to a
peninsula in a great lagoon thirty miles long and seven or
eight wide, situate near Eeloncavi, or the volcano called
Osorno, where they built a city strongly defended on the
landward side by a fosse and drawbridge raised every night.
This lagoon was by others said to be that of Payeque, near a
rapid stream named Llanqueco. An explorer named Roxas,
in 1714, who started from Buenos Ayres, and whose route
lay south-west from Tandil and the Yolcan, gives most pre-
cise distances and landmarks to define the position of the
Cesares. He mentions especially a river with a ford only
passable during one period of the year, and a hill on which
is found much magnetic iron ore. These landmarks, and
the rest of his description, point to the locale of that remark-
able rock formation mentioned in p. 100, which, seen from a
distance, might well cheat a traveller into the belief that he
biheld a fortified town. Waki pointed it out to me, and
said, jokingly, ' Perhaps Christians live there.' The ' Indians
of veracity,' so frequently quoted in these accounts, who were,
however, all bound to keep secret the access to the city,
doubtless confused their recollections of different settlements
visited in their migrations, and the Spaniards, prepared to
receive any new wonder, wove into the marvellous tale all
the stories told them, and regarded the joint fiction as un-
124 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
doubted fact. But two more remarkable phases of this legend,
and then we return to practical Indian life. A military
party, who set out in 1777 from Eio Bueno, and marched to
Lake Llanquechue, crossed the passes of the Cordillera under
Osorno, and passed the night near the snow line. They
heard distant artillery, and beheld the head of a great
Laguna on the eastern side ; they brought back the astound-
ing intelligence that two distinct towns existed, one peopled
by a race of Spanish origin, the Auca-Huincas, at war with
the Pehuelches; and the other by Englishmen, or Moro-
Huincas, who lived in amity with the Indians. And the
Fiscal of Chili, in his report, insisted strongly on the neces-
sity of rooting out these audacious islanders who had dared
to plant themselves in the dominions of ' our Lord the King.'
Just as the jealous fear of the encroaching English was thus
mixed up in the Spanish version of the mysterious Cesares,
so the Indians connected them with the traditionary glories
of the great Inca race, and spoke of the Indian Cesares ; and
the potency of the fable was shown by a proclamation put
forth by the heroic and ill-starred Tupac Amaru, who headed
the unsuccessful rebellion against the tyrant Christians in
1 781, styling himself ' Inca, Senor de los Cesares y Ama-
zonas, con dominio en el Gran Paytiti.' But success mocked
his grasp, and he perished by the hand .of the executioner,
just as the rich and coveted city whose lordship he claimed
has eluded many an explorer who has sacrificed his life in
the hopeless search. But the patient reader is probably
weary of enchanted cities, and glad to return to the daily
routine of our Indian life, though it was at this time
butcherly enough. It was the all-important season of young
guanaco hunting; and though the chase afforded plenty of
riding, it could hardly be said to offer sport ; but to the
Indians it was a matter of business, as their clothing and
stock of skins to trade with depended on the number of
young guanaco killed at this time. Some notes of the habits
of the guanaco and rhea, or ostrich, which furnish the Pata-
gonian Indians with food and clothing, may not be out of
place, though all critics are warned that they are not those
Ch. IV.] THE GUANACO. 125
of a naturalist, but simply the observations of a lover of birds
and beasts.
The guanaco, known to the Indians as * Nou,' is from three
to four feet in height, and from four to five in length,
measured from the point of the nostrils to the tail. The
coat is woolly, but decreases in thickness of wool, or rather
becomes hairy, about the head and legs. Its colour is of a
yellowish red, intermixed with white in various parts of the
body ; more especially under the abdomen, down the inside of
the legs, and round the lips and cheeks : the white also ex-
tends up the inside of the neck and throat. The shoulder is
slightly arched ; the tail short, and when the animal is in
motion slightly elevated. The guanaco abounds over a vast
range of country, extending from Peru all down the regions
east of the range of the Cordillera of the Andes, over the
vast plains from Mendoza to the Straits of Magellan, and
even to Tierra del Fuego. As a rule, one male guanaco herds
with a troop of about a hundred females, and in the event of
their being disturbed he will take up his position on some
neighbouring pinnacle of rock, and commence neighing
something after the fashion of a horse, keeping himself
between the danger and his wives. At the breeding season,
however, the males go in flocks by themselves, as do the
females. Although it is stated in Monsieur Gay's admirable
book on the Zoology of Chili, that the females sometimes
bear three fawns, yet this must be a rare case : while we were
hunting and killing the young guanaco, the mothers in-
variably became separated, the young ones lagging behind
so as to prevent any appropriation of them to their dams.
However, during the time employed in killing the mothers
for the purpose of extracting the unborn young from the
womb, I never saw or heard of more than one foetus being
found. The guanacos are excessively swift of foot, indeed
almost unapproachable by horse or dog, as a few buck leaps
take them away far beyond the speed of a horse. They
frequently wait to allow a pursuer to approach close, and
then bound off, and speedily distance him. Their means of
defence consist chiefly in the savate, or use of the feet, more
126 AT HO]VIE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
especially the fore ones, although they also bite at times, and
with their two peculiar canine teeth could inflict a severe
wound.^ I have seen places where a puma and a guanaco
have evidently had a severe struggle, always, however, result-
ing in the victory of the puma, as, on seeing these marks, we
invariably searched for and found the body near, carefully
covered ov^r by the 'leon.' The flesh of the guanaco is
excellent, something resembling mutton ; the young guanaco
being more like very tender veal. That their wool might be
turned to account for mercantile purposes is undoubted, as it
is of very fine texture, and is at the present time of value in
Chili, where it is woven into ponchos, which are highly
prized. Up to the present time few have been domesticated,
but they become very tame, and might at a future date be
found useful as beasts of burden, as they are similar in most
respects to the lama. There is one very remarkable point
about the guanaco : at certain times of the year a sort of
secretion, condensed into a hard substance like stone, is
found in round pieces, varying from |^ to ^ inch in diameter,
in the stomach. To these stones some of the Indians attribute
medicinal virtues. The guanaco is of use to the Indians
in every way. The skin of the adult is used to make the
coverings of the toldos, and that of the unborn or young
ones to make mantles for clothes ; the sinews of the back
furnish them with thread ; the skin of the neck, which is
particularly tough and durable, with lazos or thongs for
bolas, bridles, &c., &c. The skin of the hock supplies them
with shoes or coverings for the bolas ; from the thigh bone
they also cut out dice, or make a musical instrument. On
attaining the age of about two months, the coat of the young
guanaco begins to become woolly, and the skin is then use-
less for mantles, but makes sufficiently good saddle cloths.
The animal at this early age is very swift of foot, and will
give a good chase. They attain their full size the second or
third year after birth, and the adult male cannot be better
described than as apostrophised by Lieut. Gallegos. As we
watched a solitary guanaco standing on a hill above us, and
• The skull of a guanaco is well figured in Mr. Cunningham's work.
Cii. IV.] THE PATA.GONIAN OSTRICH. 127
every now and then uttering its slirill warning neigh, * Ah,'
said Gallegos, * you are a queer animal ; you have the neigh
of a horse, the wool of a sheep, the neck of a camel, the
feet of a deer, and the swiftness of the devil.' The Rhea
Darwinii, called by the Indians * Mekyush,' and by the
Spaniards Avestrus or Ostrich, which name is universally
applied to it, is peculiar to Patagonia, few being met with
north of Rio Negro, and none being found that I am aware
of in any other part of the globe ; with the exception, perhaps,
of the more northern and plain-like parts of Tierra del Fuego,
opposite the country extending from Cape Virgin to Oazy
Harbour. It is a variety of the Rhea Americana, common in
the Argentine provinces of Entre Rios and Santa Fe, also
scattered over the Republic of the Banda Oriental, and ex-
tending, I believe, as far north as Rio Grande do Sul and the
southern Brazilian province. They exist also in Chili, on
the plains at the foot of the Cordillera of the Andes. The
chief difference between these two species is that the Pata-
gonian Rhea Darwinii is smaller and of lighter colour than
the American Rhea. The Patagonian ostriches are very swift
of foot, and run with their wings closed, while the other
species invariably spread theirs. The former birds also
always run in a straight line, except when leaving the
nest, when probably, to avoid being tracked, they run in a
circuitous manner. Their plumage, that is to say the wing
feathers, are an object of commerce, and fetch at present
about a dollar a pound in Buenos Ayres. The marrow from
the leg bones is also, I believe, of use for making pomade,
and was formerly, if not at present, highly prized in Buenos
Ayres. To the Indian this bird is invaluable in many ways.
Besides furnishing their most favourite food, from the sinews
of the leg thongs for bolas are constructed ; the neck is used
as a pouch for salt or tobacco ; the feathers are exchanged for
tobacco and other necessaries ; the grease from the breast
and back is tried out and secured in bags formed of the skin
(taken off during the spring season, when the females, like all
the Patagonian animals except the puma, are thin) ; the
meat is more nourishing and more relished by the Indians
-1 28 AT HOI^IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
than tliat of any other animal in the country, and the eggs
form a staple commodity of food during the months of
September, October, and November. The male bird stands
about 2^ feet high, and is to be distinguished from the female
by its being of a slightly darker colour, and of greater size and
strength ; nevertheless, it requires a practised eye to detect
the difference at any distance. The male bird is also swifter.
Their usual food consists of short grass and the seeds of
various shrubs, but more especially of tender grass, which I
have on several occasions watched them plucking, from a
convenient rock which hid me from their sight. On being
alarmed they immediately set off at a great speed ; they
possess great powers of eyesight. If met or obstructed by
horsemen in their line of flight, they not unfrequently squat
so closely that they can scarcely be distinguished from the
surrounding rocks, as the greyish colour of their plumage so
closely resembles the almost universal aspect of the Pampas
of Patagonia. These birds, though not web-footed, can
swim sufficiently well to pass a river. In the winter season
it is not unfrequent for the Indians to drive them into the
water, where, their legs getting numbed with cold, they are
drifted to the shore by the current, and easily captured,
being unable to move. In snowy weather they are also
easily taken, as their eyes appear to be affected by the glare
of the white snow, and their saturated plumage doubtless
becomes heavier. They are polygamous, one male bird con-
sorting with five or six hens, which lay their eggs in the
same nest — a hole about two feet six inches in diameter,
scooped out of the earth. They begin to lay in the early
part of September, the number of eggs in each nest varying
from twenty to as many as forty, or more. In the early part
of the laying season extraneous eggs were found scattered in
different parts of the plain, some of which were of diminutive
size. Contrary to the usual rule amongst birds, the male
sits on the eggs, and when the chickens are hatched assumes
the charge of the brood. The young run immediately, or
shortly after emerging from the shell, and are covered with
a down of greyish black colour on the back, and whitish on
Ch. IV.] TITE PATAGONIAN OSTRICH. 129
the breast and neck. Tlieir ciy resembles the syllables
pi, pi, ])i, littered in a sharp, quick manner. The old male,
when any dangers appear, feigns to be hurt, like other birds
endeavouring to distract the attention of the hunter, in order
that his brood may escape by hiding in the grass. After the
male has sat for some time on the nest (I should place the
period of incubation at about three weeks), he gets thin, and
the grass closely surrounding the nest is found eaten quite
bare. The females by this time are beginning to pick up
flesh, which is a fortunate provision of nature for the Indians,
who cannot subsist on lean meat. Whilst the females are
thin they are killed and skinned, the meat being left, and
the skins sewn into mantles for sale at the settlements.
These birds at that period are much afflicted with vermin,
which invade the toldos and guanaco mantles of the In-
dians, and cause them infinite annoyance. (A useful hint
occurs to me for future travellers amongst the Patago-
nians — never allow the squaw of the establishment to place
ostrich mantles under your sleeping hides.) The young Rhea
does not attain its full plumage or size until the second year
after its birth, and is never pursued by the Indians unless
food is really scarce. The eggs are eaten in all stages, fi-esli
or stale ; the Indian not recognising much difference be-
tween the unhatched chicken and the unborn guanaco. The
inveterate destroyers of these birds are, besides their human
enemies, the puma and foxes, the former of which will sur-
prise and kill the sitting bird, which he carefully hides, and
then proceeds to eat the eggs with great gusto. We not
un frequently found the eggs broken and scattered by these
animals, whilst the bird was generally discovered hard by.
The foxes, I think, content themselves with sucking the
eggs ; but I was assured that near Geylum, where wild eats
are common, these latter will kill the bird on the nest, like
their relatives the puma. Besides these there are the con-
dors, eagles, and hawks, which no doubt commit extensive
ravages on the young broods. With all these difficulties to
contend with, the Ehea Darwinii exists in great numbers,
and if not kept down to a certain extent by the Indians and
K
130 AT HOME WITH TUE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. IV.
other enemies would overrun the whole country. We were,
while at Chiriq, busily engaged in the destruction of both
guanaco and ostrich, the high rugged range of hills that
bounded Chiriq on the eastern side literally swarming with
guanaco ; and as the females, heavy with young, could not
keep up their speed for a long distance, one man not unfre-
quently captured and killed five and six, or even eight;
extracting the young and taking its skin for mantles and the
carcase for food, while the hide of the mother served, if
needed, to repair the toldo. The marrow bones also were
taken as a dainty, but the meat was left for the condors,
puma, and foxes. We hunted almost every day, and traversed
nearly all the surrounding country. The plains lying to the
west afforded beautiful ground to ride over, covered with
soft grass, but a few leagues from the Cordillera a sudden
dip occurs, which forms a huge basin, lying about 50 feet
below the level of the plain, like the bed of a lake, and
extending to the mountains ; the surface of this was chiefly
covered with grass, but in some parts the yellow clay and
beds of stones were visible. On the higher ground, before
reaching this basin, numerous lagoons occurred, round one
of which there was a large gull-rookery, and the inhabitants
made themselves audible at a long distance. Here also I
noticed many of the teru-tero, a spur-winged lapwing, com-
mon near Buenos Ayres. I had encountered them even as
low as Santa Cruz, but never in such large numbers. Our
hunts on the plain were not so successful as those on the
hilly range, although in the previous year the Indians asserted
that the reverse had been the case. Perhaps the guanaco
had gained in experience, and felt themselves safer in the
rocky heights where riders were likely to get bad falls. The
Northern Indians rode most recklessly, going at full speed
down the most precipitous places, and, strange to say,
although one or two accidents did occur resulting in broken
limbs, they were not numerous. This speaks volumes for the
sure footedness of their horses. It is their custom, when
hunting in rocky places, to place hide shoes on the horse's
fore feet as a safeguard against sharp stones. After hunt-
Ch. IV.] HORSE-RACING. 131
ing, it was th.e rule every evening for those owning spare
horses (and indeed for those who did not) to repair to the
race-course a little before sunset, and train or run their
horses, or look on at the others, and if there was a race,
make bets. The manner of racing is somethmg similar to
that in vogue amongst the Gauchos in the provinces of
Rio de la Plata, except that it is generally conducted on
principles of fair play. The stakes are always deposited
before the race comes off : if horses, they are tied out handy ;
if ornaments, bolas, &c., &c., they are placed in a heap, the
winners removing them directly the race is decided. The
horses are run bare-backed, the two riders starting them-
selves after cantering side by side for a few yards. Owing
to the great care taken in training the horses, very few false
starts ever occur. The races are very often for long dis-
tances, four miles or a league being the average, although,
of course, with young horses the distance is shorter. The
Indian manner of breaking colts is similar to that of the
Gauchos ; they are, however, more gentle with their horses,
and consequently break them better. One rarely sees a
horse amongst the Indians that is not perfectly quiet ; indeed,
the smallest children are nearly always mounted on the
racers and best horses, although if a white man approaches
or attempts to catch them they show signs of fear and
temper. Indeed, there appears to be a sort of instinctive
mutual bond between the Indians and their horses. For
lameness the cure most prevalent is bleeding in the fetlock
with an awl ; sometimes the incision is made higher up the
leg, and the awl forced nearly through the horse's leg ; he
is then tied up for a short time, and then let go, and the cure
is generally certain. Of course before the bleeding he is tied
up several houi-s without water. The cure for sore backs,
which, though rare, sometimes occur owing to an ill-made
saddle, is a species of aluminous earth, applied to the wound
after it has been cleansed with a knife. This earth is only
found in the southern parts of the country, and it is very
difficult to obtain any of this much-prized medicine from the
Indians. One deposit of it is found in a cliff near Lake
K 2
132 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
Yiedma, so high that it can only be got at by throwing stones
at the face of the clifF, and so dislodging the earth.
A few lines will sufl&ce to gratify any ' horsey- doggy ' friends
who may be curious as to the horse flesh and dog shows of the
Indians. The horses in use amongst the Southern Indians
are, as a rule, of a hardier race than those found amongst the
Northern, Araucanian, and Pampas Indians. Their general
size is about fi.fteen hands, or indeed perhaps less, but never-
theless they are of great speed and endurance; when one
takes into consideration that the weight of their riders is
frequently over fourteen stone, it appears extraordinar}^ that
they should be enabled to carry them in the way they do.
The horses are, of course, all of Spanish origin, but time,
climate, and the different nature of the country have altered
them to a considerable degree from the original race. The
horses found amongst the Northern Tehuelches are, as a rule,
larger than those previously mentioned, with finer heads and
smaller legs ; they are also extremely swift, and being bred
frequently from captured wild mares, are admirably adapted
for hunting purposes. The horse, however, most valued is
the wild horse captured and tamed; these differ from the
others in being, as a rule, of larger size and superior speed.
This, I think, only applies to Northern Patagonia, as I have
in other parts seen wild horses which in no way equalled
those in captivity. The horses vary in colour, those captured
from the wild herds generally being a dark bay, black, or
brown. Near Port San Julian, I am informed that there are
numbers of wild ponies, about the size and make of a shelty,
which the children play with. The horses are entirely grass
fed, and in consequence of the dry nature of the pasture in
the winter season, and the subsequent hard treatment, they
generally get very thin in the spring time of the year, but
soon pick up condition when given a few days' rest, and
allowed to feed on the fresh pasture. The dogs generally in
use amongst the Patagonian Indians vary considerably both
in size and species. First of all comes a sort of lurcher
(smooth haired), bred by the Indians from some obtained in
the Rio Negro, the mothers being a descri^ition of mastiff.
Ch. IV.] INDIAN DOGS. 133
with the muzzle, however, much sharper than that of a
mastiff proper ; they are also very swift, and have longer and
lower bodies. Our chief, Orkeke, kept his breed of this dog,
which probably had been derived from the earlier Spanish
settlements, jDure ; and they were, for hunting purposes, the
best I saw, running both by scent and view.
Another description of dog observed had long woolly hair,
and indeed much resembled an ordinary sheep dog. These
were passably common amongst the Indians, but most of the
dogs used in the chase — which are nearly all castrated — are
so mixed in race as to defy specification. I heard of a dog
captured from some Fuegians, which was very swift, and
answered perfectly to our description of harrier. These
Fuegians are probably those known as the ' Foot ' Indians^
who, by those who have descended on their coasts, have been
observed to use dogs for hunting purposes.
Casimiro informed me that Quintuhual's people formerly
hunted on foot, with a large sort of dog, which, from his
description, must have resembled a deer hound. The dogs
are rarely fed, being allowed generally to satiate themselves
in the chase. The hounds belonging to Orkeke, and one or
two others, were exceptions to this rule, being fed with
cooked meat when it was plentiful. The women keep pet
lap dogs of various descriptions, generally a sort of terrier
some of them much resembling the Scotch terrier. ' Ako '
for instance, was to all appearance a thoroughbred dog of
that breed. These little lap dogs are the torment of one's
life in camp : at the least sound they rush out yelpino-, and
set all the big dogs off; and in an Indian encampment at
night, when there is anything stii-ring, a continual concert of
bow-wows is kept up. The dogs are fierce towards strangers,
but generally content themselves with surrounding them,
showing their teeth and barking, unless set on. That they
are ugly customers at night an amusing instance will prove.
One morning a dog was found dead near its owner's toldo
which had evidently been knocked on the head with a bola
and finished with a knife ; the owner made a great outcry, but
no explanation could be had. It subsequently became known
134 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. IV.
to me that a young gallant had sought admission to the toldo
of his innamorata by the accustomed method of cautiously
lifting the back tent cover from the ground, and dexterously
crawling underneath; when half through, he felt his leg
seized in a pair of powerful jaws. The lady was highly
amused at the predicament of her lover, who, however, extri-
cated himself by a mighty and well-directed kick with his
foot in the muzzle of his assailant. When returning from
his * rendezvous' he met his active enemy, and vindictively
knocked him on the head, and, to make sure work, cut his
throat ; but his leg carried after all a deeper scar than his
heart as a token of the love-adventure, and when the story
was told, and, as may be supposed, excited roars of laughter,
it recalled forcibly to my mind,
* He jests at scars who never felt a wound.'
Our camp at Chiriq presented quite the appearance of a
town of toldos, and fresh arrivals were still expected from the
S.W.; but the Indians of the latter party, with whom we had
not yet made acquaintance, sent a chasqui with an invita-
tion to Crime to join their party, and a message that they
would ultimately meet us at Teckel. Accordingly, Crime,
who was now rich in horses and gear, having received many
presents, bid us adieu, and set off with an imposing cavalcade.
Poor fellow ! he had better have remained with us, as the
sequel will show.
The weather during the first weeks of our stay in Chiriq
was warm and fine, but latterly the wind veered round to the
west, and it changed to sleet and cold rain, and the normal
Patagonian climate. The humour of the Indians seemed as
variable, for old Orkeke grew exceedingly jealous. Jackechan
often used to lend me a horse on the hunting excursions, and
Orkeke one day asked me in a sullen manner whether I
wished to change my toldo, and go with my friend. My
reply that I had no wish to do so at present quieted him for
the time, and he immediately offered me one of his best
horses for the next day, which was a real treat. I am afraid
I rather abused his generosity, as we had a great day chasing
Cii. IV.] PLAITING SINEWS. 135
large herds of guanaco, and with a racer for a mount, one
was induced to ride furiously. On the 20th of November it
was decided to break up the camp and divide into two parties
to hunt, it being considered that our united numbers were
too great for successful hunting in one place. When all
were packing up and preparing to start, a row nearly broke
out between two of our old party : indeed it was with the
greatest difficulty, and only through the intervention of
Casimiro, Hinchel, and two or three more, that blood was
not spilt. Of course, if the fight had commenced between
these two, such is the excitability of the Indians that it
would soon have become a general battle. This, and a heavy
ghower of rain coming, prevented our march, so the women
unpacked, and horses were let go again. Some few Indians
started to hunt, but came back shortly almost empty handed,
fairly beaten by the driving sleet and snow. During our stay
most of us had refitted all our gear, and were well provided
with bolas ; many were the necks of guanaco stripped to
obtain the hide for them, and for making * maneos ' (straps
for securing horses' legs), whips, cinctas (girths), lazos,
&c., &c. The work that I preferred was plaiting ostrich
sinews for thongs for the ostrich bolas. The ostrich sinews
are abstracted by dislocating the lower joint of the leg, the
first sinew is then pulled out by hand, and the others drawn
out by main force, using the leg bone as a handle. This
bone is then separated from the foot, and the sinews left
adhering to the foot ; they are slightly dried in the sun,
after which the extracted bone is used to separate the fibres
by drawing it sharply up the sinews. When sufficiently
separated they are cut off from the foot, sj)lit into equal
sizes and lengths, and laid in a moist place to soften ; when
sufficiently soft they are made into thongs, cooked brains
being used to make them more pliable, and lie better in the
plaits. These thongs are plaited in four plaits (round sinnet)
well known to every sailor, but the ends are doubled in a
peculiar manner, which requires practice to manage well.
Before leaving Chiriq another disturbance was nearly taking
place, caused by one of the Chilians quitting Tchang's toldo,
136 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. IV.
and joining that of a man commonly called Santa Cruz, an
Indian well known at Patagones, and allowed a ration of
mares from the Government. Tchang, immediately on hear-
ing of his departure, put on his revolver and collared the
Chilian's horse. To this Santa Cruz objected, but Tchang
kept the horse, and, revolver in hand, defied anj^body's claim
to it. After this little incident the camp was broken up, and
the two parties divided — Hinchel marching S.W. and our
party to the N.W.
After a very cold and hungry march in the face of a
bitterly piercing wind, we encamped on the shores of a lagoon
of some extent, called ' Hoshelkaik,' wliich signifies ' Windy-
hill,' and certainly is worthy of its name ; for during our stay
a succession of S.W. winds blew with great violence. After
our arrival a small boy cut his finger, and, according to
custom, a mare was killed. Some of the meat sent to our
toldo was thankfully received, as we were all half starved.
Having strolled through the camj) and visited Cayuke's toldo,
I found that Casimiro had not arrived, having started, to my
great disgust, with the party travelling to the S.W., and
taken with him a specially good horse, which he had given
me in exchange for a revolver. I was, however, glad to find
that Jackechan, the Pampa chief, was there, and we had a
confabulation and smoke together. On the 23rd, the pre-
vious d?.y having been too rough, the Indians started to
hunt the enclosing grassy basin before mentioned as existing
at the foot of the mountains. Immense herds of guanaco
were driven down, and being encircled by men and fires the
sport soon commenced. The Tehuelches had for some reason
set light to the grass in every available part, and the wind
rising to a furious gale, the fires soon spread and joined in an
advancing line. Jackechan, myself, and several other Indians
were in the centre of the circle, each employed in skinning
the guanaco we had already killed, when suddenly we found
that we were encircled in flame and smoke, and that if we did
not want to be well scorched we had better look out for means
of exit. Leaving our game, we galloped at the spot where
the smoke appeared thinnest, but after riding three or four
Cii. IV.] SURROUNDED BY FIRE. 137
minutes ■with our faces covered up, fouuJ an impassable
barrier of flame ; so, half-maddened with the hot sand dashed
in our eyes by the gale, and nearly suffocated with smoke, we
galloped down the line of flame to a spot where, the grass
being stunted, we managed to get through without injury,
although our horses' legs were singed a little. We were very
thankful to breathe pure air, though the atmosphere was still
thick with smoke, and nothing could be distinguished of
valley or anything else. Jackechan, with unerring Indian
instinct, led the way to a stream of water, Avhere we were
able to drink and wash some of the hot sand out of our eyes.
After a quarter of an hour's rest and a smoke, as the flames had
passed on, we determined to ride back over the still smoking
ground, and endeavour to discover the bodies of our guanaco.
We accordingly emerged from the hollow, where we had
sheltered ourselves, and once more plunged into the thick of
the driving smoke and heated sand : holding our mantles
over our eyes, we penetrated the murky atmosphere till
Jackechan discovered two of his animals ; but as they were
both roasted, or rather burned, and ourselves and horses were
nearly suffocated, we beat a hasty retreat. I was very thank-
ful when at length, ascending a steep declivity, we emerged
at the toj) into the pure air. ' Ah ! ' said Jackechan, looking
down on the plains still full of smoke, ' it has been a rough
time, but " we are men, not women," though we were fools
to remain to the last.' I fully agreed with him in this, as
my eyes still smarted very painfully. How he found his way
through the smoke was perfectly inexplicable to me : if I had
been alone, my travels would have been concluded then and
there. Towards the evening of this eventful day the wind
abated in violence, and during the night snow fell, and all
the ensuing day there were passing squalls of white water or
snow, and furious blasts of wind. About this time I came to
the conclusion that summer was unknown in these regions,
and that the Patagonian year consisted of two seasons — a
hard winter and a bad spring. The Indians, however, de-
clared that the climate had grown colder during the last
two years. On the 28th of November we broke up camp and
138 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAlsS. [Ch. IV.
marched to a valley situated under one spur of the wooded
hills, previously mentioned as bounding the northern side of
the valley — killing some young guanaco by the way. I was
astonished on galloping up to two to find they did not run
away at first, although their mothers had already gone, and
taken up a position on a rocky eminence some distance off.
Whilst watching them, however, and meditating on the
necessity and cruelty of killing them, the two little things
started off; so, as my mantle was fast losing its beautiful
appearance, I put compunction on one side, and shortly
killed them with a blow on the head. On arriving at the
fire where some of the Indians were collected eating ostriches,
I was proceeding to take the skins off, when Tankelow, who
presided, stopped me, saying that we would skin them in the
toldos, where the blood would be a treat to the women and
children. We accordingly reserved the luxury, and after a
feed crossed a small stream and piece of marsh, beyond
which lay the encampment, where the women soon verified
Tankelow's words. Though the flesh of the young guanaco
is rather tasteless and soft, the blood has a sweeter taste than
that of the adult. The rennet, or milk, which is found
curdled into a sort of cheese in the intestines, is also eaten
with gusto. The most laborious part of young guanaco
hunting consists in taking off the skin, which, after the
necessary incisions have been made with a knife, has to be
taken off by hand, the thumb being used to separate the hide
from the body. The calves, when three days old, run at
about the speed of a horse's hand gallop, but sometimes give
longer chases. The Indian plan is to kill them with a blow
on the head from a ball, and then pass on to another, and so
on, afterwards returning to collect them in a heap and skin
them. After the hide is taken off it is necessary to expose it
to the air for a few minutes before folding it up, otherwise it
is liable to get heated, and will tear easily in the subsequent
processes. We hunted in the neighbourhood of Jeroshaik,
or ' Bad Hill,' several times, with varying success, sometimes
proceeding up into the wooded hills, where the timber in
some places grew in clumps, as if planted by the hand of
Ch. IV.] ARRIVAL OF GROG. 139
man; in others filled up the rocky dells, until the main
forests were reached, which appeared to extend far into the
Cordillera. Most of the trees were of a species of beech, on
which were many small edible fungi, some of which we
gathered for use ; and traces of red deer were frequently seen,
and a few were chased by the Indians, but owing to the
thickness of the wood they escaped. Some of the Indians
took the opportunity to cut fresh poles for the toldos. The
sight of woods and trees was so refreshing that I spent
several days consecutively amongst them, very often alone,
or with one companion. Nobody, except a sailor after
months on the sea, can imagine the pleasure of wandering
under trees to one who had passed so long a time in the barren
and monotonous plains. The weather, however, still con-
tinued wet and inclement. On the 5th of December, some of
us wandering on the heights above, made out smoke to the
IST.E., and Campan went off at speed on horseback to recon-
noitre. He returned towards nightfall very drunk, and riding
straight to our toldo, proclaimed that El Sourdo, the Indian
left behind in Santa Cruz, had arrived at a place close to us,
bringing grog in two small barrels, and letters for me : when
he had delivered his news, he, with some difficulty, dis-
mounted without coming on his head ; then produced a bottle
half full of rum from under his mantle, which he dispensed
to the attendant company.
Our toldo was soon crowded, and it was proposed that on
the following day we should march and meet the visitor, all
being eager for a drink. Accordingly, on the morrow we
started, in a storm of sleet and rain, and prepared to hunt
en route. While hunting, just after Jackechan and myself
had killed an ostrich, the former perceived a single toldo,
which he knew must be El Sourdo's, so we galloped
towards it, accompanied by two other Indians, and were
received with open arms by El Sourdo and his two wives,
Jackechan being a very old friend. We were made to sit
down, and the olla, or boiling-pot, was brought out by the
two wives, who acted as Hebes by producing the rum, with
which our host fiUed the pot, and dispensed the liquor in
140 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGOKIANS. [Ch. IV.
a pannikin. One of the wives then produced my letters,
which proved to be from Mr. Clarke and Don Luiz P. B., the
schooner having arrived on October 5, all safe. El Sonrdo
then gave me all the news verbatim — how a fight had taken
place at the settlement between Gonzalez and Antonio, in
which the latter had been killed or mortally wounded, and
the former had escaped to the Pampas, but had subsequently
been captured and taken as a prisoner in the schooner
to Buenos Ayres ; and other news of trivial importance.
Meanwhile the grog was fast disappearing, and the pot had
to be replenished. This in turn was about half-emptied by
the time the other Indians and women arrived, and Jacke-
chan, very inebriated, was vowing eternal friendship to me,
while Tchang was howling in my other ear a lovely Tehuelche
ditty. As I had drunk in moderation, I thought it about
time to clear, so, on the plea of looking after my horse,
retired and re-read my letters, which anyone may imagine,
although not coming from my relations, were of great
interest. After my departure no more liquor was given
away. El Sourdo selling two bottles for a young horse or a
silver-sheathed knife, so that he soon found himself a rich
man. By midnight all the liquor was exhausted and many
drunk, but no disturbances occurred worthy of mention, all
arms having previously been stowed away safely. I was
roused from my first sleep by a lady from a neighbouring
toldo, who wished to embrace me, and, with feminine curio-
sity, wanted to know the contents of my letters. She was,
I am soiTy to say, in an advanced stage of intoxication, so
after giving her a smoke, Orkeke, who had roused up and
was dying of laughter, politely showed her the door. Most
of the party went out hunting in the morning, the ride no
doubt proving beneficial to those suffering from headache,
though little game was killed ; but the Sourdo, whom I had
joined in a morning bowl of coffee, remained at home, as his
horses were very much used up, one of his boys going on a
friend's mount to procure meat. For four days after this
drinking bout we did nothing but slaughter and eat mares,
somebody's child having been slightly hurt in some manner.
Cii. IV. J GISK. 141
Altlioug-h I have read in various books that the Indians have
a religions festival at which mares are slaughtered as a
sacrifice to the Deity at a certain time of the year, I never
saw anything of it. Whenever this sort of sacrificial feast
took place, there was always a special occasion for it — either
a death, or a child hurt, or some escape from a danger,
when the animals are killed as a thank-ofiering. Rather
tired of remaining so long in one place, on the 12th we
marched due north across the plain, which was called ' Gisk,'
and encamped under a hill covered with trees, and the sides
furrowed with small gullies, densely filled with vegetation
and shrubs of two or three species. Here there were plants
of the description of potatoes before mentioned, but growing
very deep in such unfavourable ground that few were ex-
tracted. On the hill sides a plant bearing a yellow flower
grew in abundance, the leaf of which, the Chilians informed
me, was an excellent remedy for wounds and bruises, and
much used in Chili. Four days' hunting took place here, at
the end of which Orkeke, who had some story that the
Pamj)as had been stealing a march by hunting at night, and
was rather disgusted at his continual ill-success, proposed
that we should separate, and in company with the toldos of
Tchang, go westward to a plain below the higher mountains,
which he stated to be abounding in guanaco. He also pro-
posed a trip into the Cordillera in search of wild cattle. This
plan was eagerly approved, as I anticipated persuading him,
if possible, to penetrate to the Chilian shores of the Pacific.
We accordingly set out on our travels, but had not gone far
before a frightful storm of wind, sleet, and rain set in, which
wetted us all completely. We huddled for shelter under a
bush for some time, but as it continued there was nothing
for it but to push on, and about 3 p.m. the weather cleared
up ; we then entered a glen with a wooded stream running
down it, expanding higher up into an open plain. A short
distance up the valley the intended camping-ground lay, so
a small circle was made, in which some ostriches and gua-
naco were killed. We then adjourned across the river under
the trees, and soon had a roaring fire blazing, by the side of
142 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
wliicli we dried ourselves and cooked our dinner. A more
romantic-looking spot than this I was never in. On the
other side of the stream was a mass of grey rocks, half hid
by shrubs, from amongst which here and there a dead tree
stood up. On one side the grass was beautifully green, and
the trees were growing in scattered round clumps a few
yards apart ; doves were cooing in their branches, and young
ostriches were running about. These, T am sorry to say,
were caught by the horsemen, who jumped down and secured
them : hunger had no scruples, and two furnished a good
meal for each wet and starving traveller. Despite our
ducking, we were soon all in high spirits, and some of us,
before going back to the toldos, proceeded to search for wild
potatoes, a few of which we brought back. The following
morning the sun rose bright, with a clear sky, so we con-
tinued our march in a westerly direction, arriving about
mid-day at a gorge amongst the wooded hills, where I hoped
that we were going to encamp ; the women, however, di-
verged to the northward, and proceeding up a ravine or
cajaon in the barranca of the high pampa, pitched the toldos
in a gloomy, prison-like spot. Melancholy as it seemed to
me, it afforded abundant pasture for the horses, which
between the hills was scarce, so that they were inclined to
wander into the woods and be hard to find when wanted,
which undoubtedly was the reason of our taking the caiion in
preference to the wooded valley. This caiion, a little beyond
our camp, divided into two, in one of which was a laguna
frequented by avocets. The stream, which in spring poured
down the glen, presented only an occasional pool and a dry
bed, in which were numbers of rounded white stones of
chalky substance, supplying capital materials for bolas, easily
reduced to the suitable form : it also occurred to me that the
chips pounded to powder might have the curative effects of
chalk mixture, as diarrhoea had affected some of the party,
and the result of the medicinal experiment was satisfactory,
though it was impossible to prevail on the Indians to try the
remedy. Whilst the women were pitching toldos, the men,
eight in number, started to hunt again. Eiding to the west,
Cu. IV.] A PLEASANT NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 143
where the plain was still open, we came upon another of the
huge basins previously described, on the western side of
which, beyond a lagoon stocked with waterfowl, flowed a
broad winding stream fringed with trees. At a short dis-
tance from the other side of the stream open glades extended
' for the space of perhaps a mile to the verge of the inter-
minable forests, rising high up on the lofty sides of moun-
tains, some of whose summits were still partially snow-clad.
To the south were two or three round detached hummocks,
hardly deserving the name of hills, crowned with trees. In
the foreground were immense herds of guanaco, and on the
northern side frowned a high range of arid-looking hills,
forming a great contrast to the deliciously-refreshing green
aspect of the other points pf view. Whilst waiting concealed
behind a bush for the coining herd, which had been cun-
ningly encircled by Tchan^ and another Indian, and were to
be driven in our direction, we gazed long at the beautiful
view before us, and Orkeke pointed out a mountain some dis-
tance to the north, underneath which, he said, was the
entrance to the scene of our future campaign against the
wild cattle. Towards evening we returned to the toldos,
pretty well loaded with skins. On another occasion, when
hunting, we made a circle, finishing off in the wooded dis-
trict near the banks of the river. On our return we hunted
over a park-like country, with alternate open glades and
woods. Here we killed a doe red deer and a large descrip-
tion of fox, apparently identical with the Falkland Island
species (Lupus antarcticus). In the vicinity of the woods, the
velvety sward was carpeted with the wild strawberry plants,
which, however, were only in bloom. On this occasion our
enjoyment was marred by one of the party getting a severe
fall, which laid him up for a day or two. Before we reached
the toldos rain set in heavily, which during the night turned
to snow, and the morning sun shone on a white landscape.
During our stay the women went to the woods to cut fresh
poles for the toldos, and the men brought back from the
wooded country a description of fungus, which, when dried,
forms an excellent tinder, of considerable value amongst the
144 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAIS'S. [Ch. IV.
Indians, as there are only a few spots wliere it is to be
obtained. After some days spent in this pleasant neighbour-
hood, as the supply of guanaco was failing, we marched over
the barren range of hills, and passing a lagoon of considerable
extent below the hills, encamped on the other side of them, by
the side of a smaller one, in a place called ' Gogomenykaik.'
During the hunt I had singled out a guanaco, and was in
full chase across the upper pampa, which was covered with
stunted bushes and tufts of grass, when the quarry suddenly
disappeared, as if the earth had swallowed him. The next
moment my horse halted in mid-gallop, with its fore feet
on the edge of a precipitous descent which shelved away
without any warning. Below was a long beautiful glen, with
a pool of water glistening among the trees which filled it,
but did not rear their topmost boughs above the level of the
pampa. Here the guanaco had taken refuge, and as the
descent was impracticable for a horse, I could only gaze
longingly down into the fairy -like scene, and turn away to
join the circle, remembering that it was only too easy to lose
oneself by delay. Of this an instance occurred the same day,
for one of the Chilians did not appear at the fireside when the
hunting was completed. At first no heed was bestowed on
him, as it was natural to suppose that he had chased a herd
of guanaco to some distance, and was detained taking off the
skins ; but when at sunset he was still missing, some dry grass
was fired, for the purpose of directing him to our camp.
The following morning he had not appeared when we started
to hunt, myself going as pointsman with Orkeke. We gal-
loped for some distance over the plain, and halted in a
hollow, where we came on six young skunks outside their
jjarental burrow, into which they quickly vanished on our
dismounting ; but as their burrows do not penetrate far,
Orkeke soon grubbed out a couple. As they were too small
to kill for the value of their skins, and too much trouble to
carry home as pets for the children, we set them free again,
and I proceeded, leaving Orkeke to pursue his way slowly.
A slight rise brought me in front of a rocky hill, on the other
side of which was a river with wooded banks, across the
Cu. IV.] BREAKING A HORSE. 145
valley of which river lay my route. I at first considered it
to be the same as that seen in the previous encamjjment,
but on reflection it was plainly another, this flowing north-
east, whilst the other took a south-west course. Our hunt
progressed very fairly. On closing the circle, one of the
Chilians, who was running a guanaco with me, and not ex-
pert in the use of the bolas, entangled his horse and himself
instead of the chase, which lost him his spoils, and caused
much merriment amongst the remainder of the party ;
although I may as well state here that when a horse gets a
ball round his legs or under his tail, it is not much of a joking
matter for the rider. On onr way back to eamp, halting by a
spring, we found large quantities of wild celery ; nettles were
also common — the real old English white-flowering one being
j)revalent. Although my bare legs got considerably stung, I
forgot to swear in Tehuelche, and forgave the plant for old
acquaintance sake. At the toldos we found the Chilian, who
had arrived recently, having run a herd some distance and
lost his way, but had been safely directed by our signal fires.
In the afternoon some of the party were occupied in break-
ing their horses, while others were sitting at home lazily
watching the perfomiance. Conde's step-father, generally
known as ' Paliki,' had a three-year-old iron grey, with a
white star, and a very fine animal, tied up ready to be
mounted for the first time. Paliki entered our tolclo to
borrow my cincta, or girth, and chaffed me, asking if I
would venture to ' domar ' him. Orkeke seconded the pro-
posal, and accordingly, having stripped off mantle and boots,
I proceeded to take the lazo and reins and mount. The in-
stant he felt the unwonted incumbrance he buck-jumped for
several yards, finally jumping into the middle of the brook
and nearly losing his footing. I spurred him out, and once
on the bank he commenced to whirl round and round like a
teetotum. At last I got his head straig-ht, and after a few
more buck-jumps he went off at racing speed, urged by whip
and spur. After a stretching gallop of three miles, I rode
him quietly back, now and again turning him to accustom
him to the bridle-thong, but not venturing to feel his mouth,
L
14.6 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
and then brought him np to the toldo amidst the shouts of
the spectators. Orkeke expressed great surprise, and wanted
to know where I had learned to ' domar ' ; and the gratified
owner insisted on presenting me with a piece of tobacco.
This was most welcome, as my store was almost exhausted,
though it had been replenished occasionally by the posses-
sors of guns and revolvers in return for my services in
putting the locks to rights ; and the fear of being left
tobaccoless — the agony of which all smokers will appreciate
— was becoming unpleasantly strong. The following day
we bade adieu to the lagoon, which, as usual, was covered
with swans and other wild fowl, which we never molested,
husbanding our powder in the event of future disturbances
with other Indians. We marched a few miles, and en-
camped near the river — indeed, on its very banks, under the
shadows of the trees. Here we passed our time away
hunting, bathing in the stream, smoking, and lying in the
shade for three days. One of my horses being lame, I could
not hunt every day, so frequently passed hours under the
trees by the river, scrubbing my one remaining shirt for
future use, and working hide, &c. As writing in the toldo
was made almost impossible by the curiosity of the children,
crowding round me and asking questions, I generally used
to take my note-book to my retreat ; here, however, I was
often interrupted by the girls, who came on the pretence of
bathing, and evinced great playful curiosity as to the con-
tents of my book — for here, too, I used to peruse and re-
peruse my library, namely, half of the delightful ' Elsie
Venner,' which Crime had picked up on board some ship to
serve as wadding for his guns, and sold to me for a little
powder. To enable the reader to follow our somewhat
devious course and the intricacies of these hills and frequent
rivers, the sketch map at page 156 will be found useful; it
does not pretend to be exact, but gives a very fair idea of the
line of country traversed and of our migrations between
Henno and Teckel.
On the 23rd, Indians having been seen to the north and
guanaco hunting proving a failure, Orkeke, to my great
Ch. IV.] THE FOEESTS OF THE COEDILLERA. 147
delight, proposed a visit to the wild cattle country. The
camp was accordingl}' struck, and following more or less the
valley of the river, which flowed after one turn nearly due
east, we shortly came out into an open plain running up
between the mountains, at the head of which we encamped
by some tall beeches on the banks of the stream. The whole
of the latter part of the plain traversed was literally carpeted
with strawberry plants all in blossom, the soil being of a
dark peaty nature. Young ostriches were now numerous,
and every hunt some were captured and formed a welcome
addition to our dinner. The children had several alive as
pets, which they used to let loose and then catch with
miniature bolas, generally ending in killing them. Our pro-
gramme was to leave all the women, toldos, and other
encumbrances in this spot, named ' Weekel,' or Chaykash —
a regular station, and which Hinchel's party had occupied a
few weeks previously — and proceed ourselves into the interior
in search of cattle. The following morning at daylight
horses were caught and saddled, and, after receiving the
good wishes of the women, who adjured us to bring back
plenty of fat beef, we started off just as the sun was rising
behind the hills to the eastward. The air was most in-
vigorating, and we trotted along for some distance up a
slightly irregular and sandy slope, halting after an hour
or two by the side of a deliciously clear brook, jQowing east,
where we smoked. We had previously passed guanaco and
ostrich, but no notice was taken of them, the Indians having
larger game in view. After passing this brook, the head
water of the river near which we had left the toldos, we
skirted a large basin-like plain of beautiful green pasture,
and after galloping for some time entered the forest, travelling
along a path which only permitted us to proceed in Indian
file. The trees were in many places dead, not blackened by
fire, but standing up like ghostly bleached and bare skeletons.
It is a remarkable fact that all the forests on the eastern
side are skirted by a belt of dead trees. At length, however,
just as we came in sight of a curiously pointed rock which
in the distance . resembled the spire of a church, we entered
L 2
148 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. [Ch. IV.
the forest of live trees ; the undergrowth was composed of
currant, baj, and other bushes, whilst here and there were
beds of yellow violets, and the inevitable strawberry plants
everywhere. After crossing a stream which, flowing from
the north, afterwards took a westerly course, thus proving
that we had passed the watershed, we proceeded, under cover
of a huge rock, to reconnoitre the hunting ground. The
scenery was beautiful : a valley, about a mile wide, stretched
directly under us ; on the southern verge a silver line marked
the easterly river, and another on the northern the one
debouching in the Pacific ; whilst above, on both sides, rose
high mountains covered with vegetation and almost im-
penetrable forests. On the western side of the valley a
solitary bull was leisurely taking his breakfast, and above
our look-out rock a huge condor lazily flapped his wings.
These were the only specimens of animal life in view.
Pursuing our way in perfect silence, as from the first entrance
into the forests speaking had been jjrohibited, we followed
the leader along the narrow cattle path, passing here and
there the remains of a dead bull or cow that had met their
fate by the Indians' lazo, and at length descended to the
plain. It was about mid-day, and the day was warm, so we
halted, changed horses, looked to our girths, got lazos ready
for use, and then started on. As we were proceeding we
observed two or three animals amongst the woods on the
opposite side, but knowing that it would be useless to follow,
pursued our course up the valley. Having crossed the
western stream, we at once entered a thicket where the path
was scarcely distinguishable from the cover, but our leader
never faltered, and led the way through open glades alter-
nating with thick woods, on every side of which were cattle
marks, many being holes stamped out by the bulls, or wallow-
ing places. The glades soon terminated in forests, which
seemed to stretch unbroken on either side. We had ex-
pected before reaching this point to have found cattle in
considerable numbers, but the warmth of the day had pro-
bably driven them into the thickets to seek shelter. We
now commenced to ascend over a dangerous path, encumbered
Ch. IV. J AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 149
here and there with loose boulders and entangled in dense
thickets, whilst we could hear and catch occasional glimpses
of the river foaming down a ravine on our left, and presently-
arrived at the top of a ridge where the forests became more
uniformly dense, and we could with great difficulty pursue
our way. It was a mystery to me how Orkeke, who acted as
guide, knew where we were, as on one occasion the slightly-
marked paths diverged in different directions, and on another
we literally found ourselves amongst fallen trees in a forest
so dense that the light of day scarcely penetrated its shades.
Our leader, however, never hesitated, but led us onwards in
all confidence. Wliilst brushing along, if I may be allowed
the term, trying to keep the leader in sight, I heard some-
thing tapping on a tree, and looking up, saw close above me
a most beautifully marked red crested woodpecker. We at
length commenced to descend, and, after passing many
channels of rivulets issuing from springs, where a slip of
the horse's foot on the wet and mossy stones would have
occasioned something worse than broken bones, as they were
situated on the edge of a deep ravine, finally emerged from
the woods and found ourselves on a hill of some three hundred
feet in height, whence we looked down on a broad plain
in the form of a triangle, bounded by the river flowing
through the ravine on the north side, and on the southern
hj another coming from the south, which two streams united
in one large river at the western apex, at a distance of about
perhaps a league. Above and around, on all sides excepting
to the west and the ravines through which the rivers flowed,
rose the unbroken wall of the lofty mountains of the
Cordillera, many of their peaks snow-clad. No sound was to
be heard except the rushing of the river in the ravine, and
no animal life to be seen except a condor or two floating
high above us in the clear sky. The scene was sublime, and
I viewed it in silence for some minutes, till the pipe, being
handed to me, dispelled all nascent poetic tendencies. The
Indians remained silent and looked disgusted, as a herd of
cattle had been expected to be viewed on the plain below.
We descended to the flats, and crossed the river, on the
150 AT HOME AVITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
banks of wliicli ' Paja ' or Pampa grass grew in abundance,
as well as the bamboo-like canes from wliicli Araucanian
Indians make tbeir lance shafts, and a plant called by tlie
Chilians ' Talka,' the stalk of which, resembling rhubarb, is
refreshing and juicy. On the northern edges and slope of the
ravine behind us towered graceful pines 60 feet high, which,
though an impassable barrier of rock prevented close inspec-
tion, appeared to be a species of Araucaria : the bark was
imbricated, and the stems rose bare of branches for two-thirds
of their height, like those figured by M. Gay. Many had been
carried down by landslips, and lay tossed and entangled on
the sides of the ravine. The increase of temperature after
passing the watershed was sensibly great, amounting to
from 7 to 10 degrees, and the vegetation far more luxuriant,
the plants presenting many new forms unknown at the
eastern side. After leaving the plain and crossing the
shallow stream, we left our mantles, and girthed up near a
tree in a thicket festooned with a beautiful creeper, having a
bell-shaped flower of violet radiated with brown. The
variety of flowers made an Eden of this lovely spot : climbing
clusters of sweet peas, vetches, and rich golden flowers
resembling gorgeous marigolds, and many another blossom,
filled the air with perfume and delighted the eye with their
beauty. Proceeding still westward we entered a valley with
alternate clumps of trees and green pastures, and after
riding about a mile I espied from a ridge on one side of the
valley two bulls on the other side, just clear of the thick
woods bordering the ascent of the mountains. The word
was passed in whispers to the cacique, and a halt being
called under cover of some bushes, a plan of attack was
arranged in the following manner. Two men were sent round
to endeavour to di'ive the animals to a clearing, where it
would be possible to use the lazo, the remainder of the
party proceeding down towards the open ground with lazos,
ready to chase if the bulls should come that way. For a
few minutes we remained stationary, picking the strawberries,
which in this spot were ripe, although the plants previously
met with were only in flower. At the end of five minutes
Ch. IV.] A BULL FIGHT. 151
spent in anxiously lioping; that our plan would prove success-
ful, a yell from the other side put us on the alert, and we
had the gratification to see one of the animals coming
straight towards our cover. Alas ! just as we were preparing
to dash out, he turned on the edge of the plain, and after
charging furiously at his pursuer dashed into a thicket, where
he stood at bay. We immediately closed round him, and
dismounting, I advanced on foot to try and bring him down
with the revolver; just as I had got within half-a-dozen
paces of him, and beJiind a bush was quietly taking aim at
his shoulder, the Indians, eager for beef, and safe on their
horses at a considerable distance off, shouted, ' Nearer !
Nearer ! ' I accordingly stepped from my cover, but had
hardly moved a pace forward when my spur caught in a
root : at the same moment ' El Toro ' charged. Entangled
with the root, I could not jump on one side as he came on ;
so when within a yard I fired a shot in his face, hoping to
turn him, and wheeled my body at the same instant to
jjrevent his horns from catching me, as the sailors say,
' broadside on.' The shot did not stop him, so I was
knocked down, and, galloping over me, he passed on with my
handkerchief, which fell from my head, triumphantly borne
on his horns, and stopped a few yards ofi" under another
bush. Having picked myself up and found my arms
and legs all right, I gave him another shot, which, as my
hand was rather unsteady, only took effect in the flank. My
cai'tridges being exhausted, I returned to my horse and found
that, besides being considerably shaken, two of my ribs had
been broken by the encounter.
The Indians closed round me, and evinced great anxiety
to know whether I was much hurt. One more courageous
than the rest, despite the warnings of the cacique, swore that
he would try and lazo the brute, and accordingly approached
the infuriated animal, who for a moment or two showed no
signs of stirring : just, however, as the Indian was about to
throw his lazo it caught in a branch, and before he could
extricate it the bull was on him. We saw the horse give
two or three vicious kicks as the bull gored him : at length
152 AT HOME WITH THE TATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
he was lifted clean up, tlie fore legs alone remaining on the
ground, and overthrown, the rider alighting on his head in a
bush. We closed up and attracted the bull in another
direction, then went to look for the corpse of our comrade,
who, however, to our surprise, issued safe from the bush, where
he had lain quiet and unhurt, though the horse was killed.
This little incident cast a gloom over our day's pleasure, and
lost us our Christmas dinner, as Orkeke ordered a retreat to
the spot where we had left our mantles, although we tried to
persuade him to attack the beast again, or, at any rate,
remain and eat some of the dead horse, and try our luck
next day, but he was inflexible. So having regained our
spare horses we prepared to return home, hoping to be able
to pass through the forests before nightfall. On our way
across the plain previously described, wild cattle were seen
and one chased; but he, although balled by Orkeke, con-
trived to slip the bolas, and escaping to cover stood to bay,
where he was left master of the field. This bull would
have been taken had the other Indians showed any degree of
alacrity when Orkeke balled him; but they were dispirited
by the previous failure. As evening was coming on I noticed
a cormorant on the river : this and the increase of tempera-
ture led me to believe that had we penetrated a few miles
farther west we should have reached the shores of the
Pacific. Pursuing our track homewards, after the second
unsuccessful engagement, we managed to pass the thick
forest before dark, and descending to the eastern valley saw
numerous cows and bulls at intervals. A short time after
dark we encamped for the night under the shelter of some
trees near to the head waters of the western river, and after
a pipe — by way of supper — wrapping ourselves in our
mantles were soon fast asleep. At daylight we mounted
and continued our journey, arriving about 2 p.m. pretty con-
siderably hungry, having eaten nothing barring strawberries
and talka, and a few unripe currants, since our last evening
in the toldos. The women were naturally disappointed at
our ill-luck, but uttered no complaints or reproaches, and
hastened to pound some charqui for our refreshment. Next
Ch. IV.] NO CHRISTMAS EEEF. 153
day, all except myself and my companion in tlie overthrow,
who complained of headache, went out hunting and returned
at night with young guanaco, and an ostrich or two. Some
of the women had seen cattle near the encampment, and
Orkeke informed me that in former years they used to occupy
the plains below us in large herds, but that the Indians had
driven them into the interior by excessive hunting : he also
stated that on one occasion he spent some months in this
spot, and caught and tamed a considerable number. His
accurate knowledge of the country made his statement
credible, and he also showed me a sort of corral that had
been made to enclose the wild animals. For my own
part the name of the Cordillera recalls the most hungry
Christmas time of my life : to parody the ' Ancient Mariner,'
it was ' Cattle, cattle everywhere, and never a bit of beef.'
The following day was spent in the toldos, and some of the
Indians were desirous, or pretended to be, of going once
more in search of cattle. Orkeke would not hear of it, so on
the 28th we marched, following the course of the river in
a more or less north-east direction. The weather was
beautiful, and after leaving the plain we rode along the
winding valley, now and then starting a herd of guanaco
or a solitary ostrich. Towards evening we encamped on the
banks of the river, and the women, after pitching the toldos,
employed themselves in grubbing up potatoes. This day we
saw smoke to the north, caused by the hunting parties of the
other Indians, and also some at a greater distance, which
Orkeke said was that of the Araucanian Indians, whom it
was expected that we should shortly meet with.
On the 29th we were preparing to march, and while the
women were engaged in lading the horses some of us were
picking the berries of the * Califata,' or barberry (Berberis
buccifolia), or looking for strawberries, when a boy, from a
party of other Indians occupying the toldos near at hand,
rode up as if despatched as a chasqui, and stated that his
party had communicated with the Araucanians, amongst
whom there had been a row in a drinking bout, resulting in
the death of the cacique. This story was fully believed, and
154 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
Orkeke was ratlier perplexed, as perhaps the new cacique
might not be friendly disposed towards the Tehuelches.
Without hunting, we rode quietly down to the next encamp-
ment, where the two strange toldos had already arrived. On
our near approach one of the Indians came to meet us, and
whilst discussing a pipe, after the observance of the usual
ceremonial prescribed by etiquette (as we had not seen the
man before), we asked him about the row amongst the Arau-
canos, which turned out to be all a hoax on the part of the
j)romising youth who had visited us. After a while we
adjourned to the toldos, situated on a bend of the river near
a ford or pass. We had now arrived at the camp agreed on
as a general rendezvous at Henno, previous to the dispersion
of the Indians. This valley is called Teckel, and is a favourite
resting place after the young guanaco season, both for the
purpose of refreshing the horses and manufacturing the
young guanaco skins into mantles, previous to proceeding to
trade either at the E-io Negro or with the Indians of Las
Manzanas. The encampment is usually situated on the ground
occupied at this time, viz., on the west side of the river,
about a mile from a large bai-ren hill which shuts out the
view of the Cordillera. On the east side the valley extends
some three miles, and continues open to the north for per-
haps six miles. It is all fertile, but the best grazing ground
is at the north-east end. The banks of the river, which are
destitute of trees, are in many places high, and formed under
the surface earth of various stratified clays— blue, white, and
red. In the bottom of the stream, which is singularly free
from stones, thick beds of clay are of frequent occurrence,
almost approaching to the tufa found in the Parana and other
confluents of La Plata, and in some spots there are beds of
black sand, probably auriferous ; fish are procurable in any
eddy or pool, and crayfish abound and form the most tempt-
ing bait for the others. Out of some of the finest clay I was
enabled to manufacture a pipe by the simple process of
shaping it in the hand and then baking it in the ashes, but
it did not last long. Shortly after our arrival one of the
small children, whilst playing with bolas formed out of the
Ch. IV.] TECKEL. 155
foot and sinews of an ostricli, hurt himself, and in conse-
quence a slaughter of mares took place, which opportunely
enabled us to dispense with hunting and rest our horses,
which by this time stood in sore need of some bye days ;
though, as there was a good race-course, we frequently in-
dulged in a race just to keep the horses in exercise. After
we had been about a week settled here, the women being all
hard at work making up mantles — which will be described in
the next chapter — the Indians began to arrive, and the hunt-
ing was resumed ; only, however, when absolutely necessary.
Some of the new arrivals proceeded to the wild cattle dis-
trict, and managed to kill a bull, although — as before — an
accident occurred. As my lazo was used to capture the bull,
I came in for a share of the meat, which was divided amongst
the people in our toldo ; but it proved very tough, and
rather nasty. Perhaps the palate, having been so long
accustomed to guanaco, ostrich, or horse, could not relish
meat of a coarser description ; but the hide was invalu-
able for making maneos and other horse-gear. On Janu-
ary 7 a messenger arrived from Casimiro requesting me
to send him some information, and stating that he was dis-
tant some three marches, and wished to wait some time to
refresh his horses, &c. After consulting with Orkeke and
Jackechan, we sent back a messenger to say that, ' As game
was scarce now in the vicinity of Teckel, and all were more or
less desirous of pushing forward, he had better make haste
and join us, otherwise we should continue our march towards
Las Manzanas.' This message had the desired effect, as on
the 11th he made his appearance, with several other toldos,
a few only remaining in the rear with Crime, who was
reported to be unwell.
On Casimiro's arrival, as he now possessed a good toldo, I
changed my quarters to his residence, as agreed on at the
outset of the journey. I was sorry to leave Orkeke, and the
old man was very much grieved, a present of a revolver only
troubling him the more, as he informed me that he had
nothing to offer in exchange ; however, my assurance that I
did not give him a present expecting an exchange, as is cus-
156 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IV.
ternary with Indians, appeared to console him. The usual
consultation of the chiefs took place, in which all the pre-
ceding arrangements were agreed to, and we remained sta-
tionary in Teckel until January 20. As I had by this time
become well acquainted with the mode of life and usages of
the Tehuelches, and was looked upon as one of themselves —
and in fact had acquired a position and influence among
them — it may be as well to call a halt, and devote a chapter
to a description of the manners and customs of the Tsonecas,
as Tehuelches or Patagonians call themselves.
Tofj, !S6-IS7, Oia/- IV.
Ch. v.] patagonian giants. 157
CHAPTER y.
max]st:rs axd customs of the tehuelches.
Patagonian Giants. — A Long Walk. — Strength and Good Humour. —
Heads of Hair. — Teliuelche Coquettes. — Dress of Men and Women. —
Ornaments and Cosmetics. — Toilette and Bath. — Arms and Implements.
— Ancient Bolas and Arrows. — Saddles and Bridles. — Silversmiths. —
Manufacture of Mantles. — Women's Work. — Diet and Cookery.—
Smoking. — Card Playing. — Game of Ball. — Ceremonies at Birth. —
Childhood. — Marriage. — Funeral Bites. — Religion. — Demons and
Doctors. — Witchcraft and Omens. — Medical Skill. — Population and
Politics. — Etiquette. — Tehuelche Character. — Natural Affection. — Ad-
vice to Travellers.
The first question asked about tlie Patagoiiians by curious
English friends has invariably had reference to their tradi-
tionary stature. Are they giants or not ? Whether the
ancestors of the Tehuelches — to whom alone, by the way,
the name Patagonians properly applies — were taller than
the present race is uncertain ; though tales of gigantic
skeletons found in Tehuelche graves are current in Punta
Arenas and Santa Cruz. The average height of the Tehuelche
male members of the party with which I travelled was
rather over than imder 5 feet 10 inches.^ Of course no other
means of measurement besides comparing my own height
were available ; but this result, noted at the time, coincides
with that independently arrived at by Mr. Cunningham.
Two others, who were measured carefully by Mr. Clarke,
stood 6 feet 4 inches each. After joining the Northern
Tehuelches, although the Southerners proved generally to be
the tallest, I found no reason to alter this average, as any
smaller men that were met with in their company were not
' Jlde Appendix B.
158 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAXS. [Ch. V.
pure Tehnelclies, but lialf-bred Pamxms. The extraordiuarj
muscular cleA-elopment of tlie arms and cliesi is in all par-
ticularly striking, and as a rule they are well-proportioned
throughout. This fact calls for especial mention, as others
have stated that the development and strength of the legs is
inferior to that of the arms. Even Mr. Cunningham alleges
this to he the case, but I cannot at all agree with him.
Besides the frequent opportunities afforded me of scrutinising
the young men engaged in the game of ball, in which great
strength and activity are displayed, or when enjoying the
almost daily bath and swimming or diving, I judged of the
muscular size of their legs by trying on their boots, which,
in nearly all cases, were far too large for me, although the
feet, on the other hand, were frequently smaller than mine.
The height of their insteps is also worthy of remark, one
example of which may suffice. Having negotiated an ex-
change of an excellent pair of high boots, manufactured by
Messrs. Thomas, for some necessary article, with a Tehuelche,
the bargain fell through because he was unable to get his
foot into the boot, the high arched instep proving an in-
superable obstacle to further progress.
An instance of the walking powers of the Tehuelches
came under my particular notice. On my first arrival at
Santa Cruz, it will be remembered that the schooner was
lying in the mouth of the river waiting for a fair wind.
Two Tehuelches, named Tchang and Getchkook, had em-
barked in order to proceed to the Rio Negro, but their
patience becoming exhausted by the delay, they asked to be
put ashore, and walked back to the settlement — a distance
of over forty miles — in about twelve hours, without food. I
saw them on their arrival, and they did not appear in any way
distressed, merely remarking that it had been * a long walk.'
Their powers of abstaining from food are also very re-
markable. When the disturbances and fighting were going
on they rarely ate anything: also when travelling as 'chasquis,'
or messengers, they will not unfrequently go for two, and even
three, days without tasting food. In our expedition iuto
the Cordillera we remained over forty-eight hours without
Ch. v.] strength and good humour. 159
food, except wild fruit, and, altliongli T at first suffered from
hunger, my companions did not appear to be in any way incon-
venienced. As a Chilian deserter remarked on one occasion,
it was all very well for them to go on without eating ; ' but
we can't — we've not so much fat.' Their strength of arm is
very great, and the distance to which they can throw the
ostrich bola is truly astonishing : thus I have seen Crime
and some others ball an ostrich over seventy yards distant.
When cutting wood in the Cordillera with Hinchel, a
Chilian deserter and myself had cut a tree through, and,
having fastened a lazo to the top branch, were endeavou^ring
to drag it down, but its branches became entangled in
another tree and we could not stir it. Hinchel, seeing our
difficulty, came up, and with one well-directed, vigorous tug
cleared it from the branches and brought it to the ground.
Mr. Clarke also informed me that when he was ill with
fever, and had to be removed from the Alraacen to the
lower house on the island, on account of the noise made
by the drunken Indians, Waki mounted, and, taking him
in his arms, rode down seemingly unencumbered by the
burden. Their faces, of course, vary in expression, but are
ordinarily bright and good-humoured, though when in the
settlements they assume a sober, and even sullen, demeanour.
Waki and Cayuke, two friends of mine, are particularly
present to my recollection as having always had a smile on
their faces. Their ever ready laughter displays universally
good teeth, which they keep white and clean by chewing
' maki,' a gum which exudes from the incense bush, and is
carefully gathered by the women and children. It has a
rather pleasant taste and is a most excellent dentifrice,
worthy to rival Odonto or Floriline, and it is used simply as
such, and not, as Monsr. Guinnard^ sa,ys, because their greedi-
ness is so great that they must chew something. Their eyes
are bright and intelligent, and their noses — though, of
course, presenting different types— are as a rule aquiline
and well-formed, and devoid of the breadth of nostril proper
to the ordinary ideal of savage tribes. The peculiar pro-
' Three Years' Slavery, p. 233.
160 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
minence ovei* the eyebrows lias been noticed by all observers,
and retreating foreheads, though observable, are exceptional.
The thick masses of hair, and the obvious risk, which would
deter the most zealous craniologist from endeavouring to
measure their heads, must be deemed sufficient excuse for
my not being able to state whether they are dolichokephalic
or brachykephalic ; a point, however, which I confess did
not particularly attract my observation ; but, for the partial
comfort of anthropologists, be it noted that both Chilians
and mjself interchanged hats with some Tehuelches, es-
pecially Orkeke and Hinchel, without finding misfits. The
complexion of the men is reddish brown, that is to say when
cleansed from paint, and, like an old picture, restored to
their pristine tint, which is not quite so deep as to warrant
Fitzroy's comparison of it to the colour of a Devon cow.
The scanty natural growth of beard, moustaches, and even
eyebrows, is carefully eradicated by means of a pair of silver
tweezers, and I was often urged to part with my beard, and
undergo this painful operation, but I naturally objected to
comply with the request. The men's heads are covered
with thick, flowing masses of long hair, of which they take
great care, making their wives, or other female relatives,
brush it out carefully at least once a day. Yery few appeared
to have grey hair; though there were a few exceptions, one very
old man's hair being of a snowy whiteness, which contrasted
strangely with his tawny face. The women have, as far as
I could judge, an average height of about 5 feet 6 : they
are very strong in the arms, but seldom walk beyond fetching
the supplies of wood and water, all their journeys being
performed on horseback. Their hair, which is of no great
length, scarcely indeed equalling that of the men, and very
coarse, is worn in two plaited tails, which on gala days are
artificially lengthened, probably with horse-hair interwoven
with blue beads, the ends being garnished with silver
pendants. This practice, however, is confined, I think, to
the unmarried ladies.
Being an admirer of long hair, on my first joining the
Indians I greatly admired Tchang's daughter for her ' head
Ch. v.] tehuelche coquettes. 161
of hair,' two immensely long tails beautifully embellished,
which I naturally thought was all her own. But, meeting
her by chance on the following morning returning to the toldo
"with water, to my great disappointment I found that she
had taken her spare hair off, and her natural locks were the
reverse of long. The young women are frequently good-
looking, displaying healthy, ruddy cheeks when not disguised
with paint. They are modest in behaviour, though very
coquettish, and as skilled in flirtation as if they had been
taught in more civilised society. The fair widow who so
nearly hooJced the Englishman could on occasions appeal as
prettily for help as a young lady in imaginary difficulties
over a country stile. Thus, Avhen at Orkeke's request I led the
way through a river — half way across the channel suddenly
deepened, with muddy bottom, and an abrupt bank to land
on — I heard a plaintive appeal, * Muster, help me ! my horse
is too small.' Exposure and work do not age them as
soon as might be expected, but when old they become most
hideous beldames, and the most weird-like witches imagined
by Dore would be surpassed by a trio of Tehuelche
grandames. The dress of the men consists of a chiripa,
or under garment round the loins, made of a jjoncho, a piece
of cloth, or even of a guanaco mantle : but, whatever the ma-
terial, this article of dress is indispensable and scrupulously
worn, their sense of decency being very strong. All other
garments are supplied by the capacious and warm skin
mantle, which, worn with the fur inside and the painted side
out, will keep the wearer dry for a considerable time in the
wettest weather. This is often dispensed with in the chase,
but, if worn when riding, is secured at the waist by a belt of
hide or leather if it can be obtained. When in camp the
belt is not used, and the garment is worn loose, something
after the fashion of the ' melodramatic assassin's ' cloak.
When sitting by the fireside, or even when walking about,
the furred part of the mantle is generally kept up over the
mouth— as the Tehuelches aver that the cold wind causes sore
gums— a habit which assists in rendering their guttural, and
M
162 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
at all times rather unintelligible, language more difficult of
comprehension to the novice.
Their potro boots (fig. 5) or buskins are made from the skin
of horse's hock, and occasionally from the leg of a large puma,
drawn on up to the knee and fastened round the foot. It is
thus worn for a day or two until the boot has taken the
shape of the foot, when the leather is cut at the toes and
sewn up to fit. When the sole is worn, or in very wet or
snowy weather, hide overshoes are worn besides, and the
footprints thus made are really large enough to convey the
idea of giants' feet, and partly explain the term ' Patagon,'
or large feet, applied to these Indians by the Spanish dis-
coverers. The boots are rarely put on in camp for economical
reasons, though turning out barefoot in the frozen grass at
daylight is unpleasant even to a Tehuelche. But the material
of the boot would soon wear out if used for walking. In
riding they are secured by garters, either gay coloured
woven bands, or, which is de rigueur for chiefs, of hide, with
massive silver buckles. Although the usual head-dress of
the men is simply a coloured fillet to confine the hair, yet
sometimes, and especially on state occasions, hats, if pro-
curable, are indulged in. Old Orkeke frequently wore a felt
wideawake, which was, on returning from hunting, carefully
put up by his thoughtful sjjouse.
The women's dress consists of a mantle similar to that
worn by the men, but secured at the throat by a large silver
pin with a broad disc, or a nail, or thorn, according to the
wealth or poverty of the wearer ; and under this is a loose
calico or stuff sacque, extending from the shoulders to the
ankle. When travelling the mantle is secured at the waist
by a broad belt ornamented with blue beads, and silver or
brass studs. The boots worn by the women are similar to
those described, with the exception that in their preparation
the hair is left on the hide, while it is carefully removed
from those of the men. The children are dressed in small
mantles, but are more frequently allowed to run about naked
up to the age of six or eight ; their little boots are made
from the skin taken from the fore-le^s of the guanaco, soft-
Cii. v.] orna:ments and cosmetics. 163
ened in the hand. The small children generally remon-
strated strong-ly and effectually against wearing this article of
clothing ; and whatever the severity of the weather, preferred
running about barefoot. The cradles for the babies are
formed of strips of wicker-work interlaced with hide thongs,
fitted with a cover to keep sun and rain off, and made of a
convenient shape to rest on the saddle gear of the mother
when on the march. They are ornamented, if the parents \
are wealthy, with little bells, brass or even silver plates. J\
The women are fond of ornaments, wearing huge earrings
of square shape, suspended to small rings passing through
the lobe of the ear ; also silver or blue bead necklaces. The
men also wear these necklaces, and adorn their belts, pij^es,
knives, sheaths, and horse-gear with silver. Those who can
afford it also indulge in silver spurs and stirrups ; most of
their ornaments, except the beads, are home-made, being
beaten out of dollars obtained by commerce in the settle-
ments. Both sexes smear their faces, and occasionally
their bodies, with paint, the Indians alleging as the reason
for using this cosmetic, that it is a protection against the
effect of the winds ; and I found from personal experience
that it proved a complete preservative from excoriation or
chapped skin. It proved equally effective against the sun,
which in Henno peeled my face completely until I resumed
the paint — which I had left off — not wishing to appear as a
noble savage to the newcomers. The paint for the face is
composed of either red ochre or black earth mixed with
grease obtained from the marrow bones of the game killed
in the chase, all of which are carefully husbanded by the
women, and when opportunity offers pounded and boiled in
the large pots ; the grease and gelatine being carefully
skimmed off and secured. On state occasions, such as a
birth feast, and for a dance, the men further adorn them-
selves with white paint, or powdered gypsum, which they
moisten and rub on their hands, and make five white finger-
marks over their chests, arms, and legs. The usual morning
toilette is simple; after the plunge in the river, which
is almost always the first thing, except of course when cir-
164 AT HOIVIE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
cumstances prevent it, indulged in by both sexes, who
bathe scrupulously apart, and generally before daylight.
The men's hair is dressed by their wives, daughters, or sweet-
hearts, who take the greatest care to burn any hairs that
may be brushed out, as they fully believe that spells may be
wrouo-ht by evil-intentioned persons who can obtain a piece
of their hair. From the same idea, after cutting their
nails, the parings are carefully committed to the flames.
After the hairbrushing, which is performed by means of a
rude hand brush, the women adorn the men's faces with
paint; if in mourning they put on black paint, and if going
to fight, sometimes put a little white paint under the eyes,
which assists in contrast to the other in giving a savage
expression. The women paint each other's faces, or if
possessed, as sometimes occurs, of a fragment of looking-
glass, paint their own. Both sexes tattoo on the forearm,
by the simple process of puncturing the skin with a bodkin,
and inserting a mixture of blue earth with a piece of dry
glass : the usual patterns consist of a series of parallel lines,
and sometimes a single triangle, or a double triangle, the
upper one resting on the apex of the lower. I myself had
one line tattooed by a fair enslaver, and confess that the
process was rather painful.
Indians have a good deal of regard for personal cleanli-
ness, and besides the morning ablutions enjoy bathing when
encamped near a river, swimming and diving for hours
together. They also are scrupulously careful as to the clean-
liness of their toldos and utensils, and will, if they can
obtain soap, wash up every thing they may be possessed of.
Notwithstanding these precautions they are very much
afflicted by vermin, which effect a firm lodgment in the
wool of their mantles. This may be attributed to their
mode of life, and their food, as well as to the materials of their
clothing; and any traveller who wishes to sojourn with the
Indians must make up his mind to subject himself to these
inflictions, to which, however {experto crede), he will soon
become inured. Their method of hunting and of cooking
the meat obtained by the chase has been fully described in
Ch. v.] arms and implements. 165
a previous chapter. Among- the arms and implements figured
in the illustration will be found (figs. 9 and 10) the weapons
chiefly employed in the pursuit of game, namely, the
bolas fitted with two balls called ' Chume,' for capturing
the ostrich, and those with three called ' yachiko,' for
guanaco hunting, which are similar to those used by the
Gauchos in the Argentine Provinces. The balls are gene-
rally of stone, but sometimes white metal or copper balls are
employed, procured in the settlements, which require no
covering, and are more and more coming into fashion of late
years ; iron balls also, or iron ore, obtained and hammered
into the requisite shape by the Tehuelches themselves, are
common ; these are for the round striking ball or balls : but
the oval shaped hand ball, which is grasped in the hand, and
is necessarily lighter by at least one-third than the other, is
generally made of the soft vesicular lava which abounds in
so many districts. The tough light thong for swinging
balls round the head is generally made, as previously de-
scribed, of ostrich or guanaco sinews plaited in four plaits,
the length of which should be between seven and eight feet.
It is always best to ball a quarry when galloping in an exact
line, as the necks of guanaco and ostrich are always aimed
at ; entangling the hind legs of the quadruped being use-
less, thouofh cattle and horses are always balled round the
hind legs. A shot at a bird or beast bounding or running
across is almost sure to miss ; of course misses are frequent,
as fifty to seventy yards is often the distance of a shot d'e-
livei'ed from a horse's back at full gallop ; and the balls
whirr through the air with their peculiar sound, only per-
haps to fall into a tangled bush. Then it is that the advan-
tage of the bright material becomes evident, for the horse-
man does not stop, but gallops on and throws another pair,
returning afterwards to pick up the dropped weapons, fre-
quently very hard to find on the pebble- strewn, grass-grown,
or shrub-covered surface. I generally threw down a hand-
kerchief or some such thing, easily seen, to mark the spot ;
but the metal bolas are so much preferred on account of
being easily seen, that a pair are worth a horse. In addition
166 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
to tlie bolas, a lazo is used wlien hunting cattle or horses,
and sometimes for the pumas, although the ordinary method
is to kill them by first stunning them with a blow on the
head. The arms of the Tehuelches consist of gun or revol-
ver, sword or dagger, a long heavy lance, used only by
dismounted Indians, and altogether different to the light
lance of Araucanian and Pampa horsemen, and the bola per-
dida or single ball, so called because once thrown it is not
picked up again : this weai)on is quickly constructed ; a
sharp-j)ointed stone is taken, covered with hide except the
point, which is left out, and a thong of raw hide about
a yard long is attached, with a knot made in the end to pre-
vent it slipping from the hand whilst whirling it round
previous to throwing it at an enemy. Before the introduc-
tion of firearms the bola perdida was the original weapon
of the Tehuelches, and is even at the present day a most
deadly missile in their hands- (See fig. 11.)
I am aware that Pigafetta, the historian of Magellan's
voyage, describes the ancestors of these Indians as using
bows and arrows, but I am inclined to think that this must
have applied either to a tribe of Fuegians or a party of
Pampas living in the valley of the Rio Negro. It is certain
that no ancient flint arrowheads are met with south of the
Rio Negro, where they abound ; also that there is but little,
if any, wood nearer than the Cordillera suitable for bows,
and it is reasonable to suppose that previous to the intro-
duction of horses the Indian migrations were confined to a
smaller area ; besides, although no arrowheads are found in
the interior of Patagonia proper, ancient bolas are not un-
frequently met with. These are highly valued by the
Indians, and differ from those in present use by having
grooves cut round them, and by their larger size and greater
weight. The introduction and diffusion of firearms has
almost superseded the use of defensive armour ; but chain
suits, and hide surcoats studded thickly with silver, are still
— ;as instances before given show — possessed and employed :
and before going into battle the warriors are often padded
likf» cricketers, corconillas or saddle-cloths, and j)onchos
Ch. v.] tehuelche arms and implements. 167
2
9 10
1. Saddle. 2. Bridle. 3. Girth. 4. Spurs. 5. Boot. 6. Adzs. 7. Scraper.
8. Musical instrument. 9. Ostrich boU. 10. auanaco bola. 11. Sola perdida. 13. ripe.
168 AT HO^IE WITH THE PATAGOXIANS. [Ch. V.
being employed to form a covering, the folds of wMcL. will
turn a sword cut or lance thrust.
Durino- our long sojourn atTeckel, as hunting was avoided
as much as possible, in order to rest the horses, the men
occupied themselves in Indian arts and manufactures, some
account of which may be deemed interesting.
As the horse is the mainstay of the Indian, let the saddle-
gear take precedence. (See tigs. 1, 2, 3, 4.)
The saddles are constructed in the following manner. A
piece of timber is split in two, and reduced, by means of a
small hand-adze, to the requisite size and thickness to form
the side boards or flaps, skilfully adapted to the shape of the
horse's back ; in these boards holes are bored at each end,
and the saddle-trees, which are chosen from angular limbs of
trees, like knees for boat building, and reduced to the requi-
site size, are lashed on by hide. Over this fresh guanaco
hide, divested of its woolly coat and carefully cut to the
proper shape, is sewn with sinew, serving, as it dries, to bind
the whole securely together. Casimiro was the most skilful
workman of the party, and made a saddle for me which,
although through having to start in a hurry it was not
smoothed down or covered with hide, I used for about five
weeks without any chafing of the horse's back. Underneath
the saddle a thick mandil, or poncho, is placed ; and over the
saddle a corconilla, or housing, of puma or yearling guanaco
skin, or, which is always preferred if obtainable, a black
sheepskin. The Araucanians weave corconillas of most
beautiful texture and brilliant blue colour, which are sold
for as much as 51. in the settlements. The girths are
made of thirteen or fourteen ties of twisted hide from the
neck of the guanaco, and fitted with two rings connected by
a leather thong. The stirrups are suspended by strips of
hide from the holes bored in the foremost saddle-trees. They
are generally made of a piece of hard wood fixed into a raw
hide thong, or sometimes of wood bent into a triangular
shape. The swells, of course, sport silver stirrups, but they
are frequently not used at all. The saddle is also taken off
when the hunting circle is being closed and the horses
Ch. v.] arts and manufactures. 1 69
ridden bare-backed, but it is replaced to carry tbe meat back
to the toldos. Sometimes it occurs that an Indian loses his
saddle at play, Avhen he is perforce obliged to ride bare-
backed, and it never appears to inconvenience them. The
bridles are made of either plaited or twisted hide. The bits
nsed vary, but the more general is a simple bar of either
wood or iron, covered at either end with two flaps of stout
hide, from which two thongs extend under the horse's jaw,
forming an effectual curb, the reins being also secured to the
hide-flaps. The bar is frequently omitted, and a simple
thong is placed in the horse's mouth and rove through the
piece of hide, which is secured to the bridle and tied under
the jaw. I used this simple bit the whole of the journey,
and never had reason to find fault with it. The spurs are
made of two pieces of hard wood, with nails filed to a sharp
point fixed in the ends, for w^hich I once tried to substitute
bone spikes, but they required constant sharpening and broke
quickly. The spurs are secured to the feet by thongs. Head-
stalls for breaking horses are made either of plain or plaited
hide, with a ring underneath for the Maneador.
Lazos are made either of twisted or plaited hide, similar
to those in use among the Gauchos. The only other articles
of horse-gear worthy of mention are the ' maneos,' called by
the Indians ' caligi,' or straps for securing the horse's legs,
in order to teach him to stand when the rider has dis-
mounted ; but the horses soon learn to await the return of
the rider. Since my return a hunting friend, hearing the
chase described, eagerly inquired, ' But who held your
horse ? ' The weU-trained Tehuelche hunters hold them-
selves, and no boy or man is available to render this service
to anyone unlucky enough to be mounted on an uneducated
steed. Our breakers might take a useful lesson from the
' savages.'
Another branch of general industry is the manufacture of
pipe-bowls, Avhich are peculiar in shape, as may be seen
in the plate (6g. 12). They are made of either wood or
stone, fitted with a silver or metal tube, and frequently orna-
mented with silver. The greatest pains is taken to keep
170 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
them free from tobacco juice by constant cleaning with an
ostrich feather.
Wooden platters are sometimes made, for containing meat
or grease ; and I have seen wooden or horn spoons con-
structed, but these articles are rare. Casimiro's toldo
rejoiced in one of the- latter, and it rather resembled a shoe-
horn. The men are many of them skilful workers in silver,
made from dollars obtained in the settlements, and tempered
until they become sufficiently malleable to be beaten out
into the requisite shaj)es, either for buckles, garters, plates,
beads, or studs for embossing belts or armour with. These
* cups,' or studs, are generally holloAved out in a suitable
cavity, worked in a stone ; they are then pierced at the edges
with a bodkin, and sewn on to the hide with sinew. The
anvils and hammers for working silver are generally stone
implements ; flints, however, are only used by the men for
procuring fire. The Tehuelches are also very handy workers
in iron, and will fashion a knife, or even an adze, out of any
piece of metal procured by theft, commerce in the colonies,
or from wrecks on the coast. One of the knives frequently
used in the latter part of my journey was formed out of one
blade of an old pair of scissors forged for me by Hinchel.
Their tools for working silver, iron, wood, &c., consist of
files, known by the expressive name of ' Khikerikikh,' or per-
haps a rasp, an occasional saw, an axe, the inevitable small
adze (fig. 6), a pair of scissors, or an old chisel. Many of these
have been obtained from shipwrecks on the coast, others by
barter in the settlements.
The vvomen's most important occupation in camp was the
making' up of skin mantles, which merits a full description.
The skins are first dried in the sun, being pegged down
with thorns of the algarroba tree. When dry they are taken
U]3, and scraped with pieces of flint, agate, obsidian, or some-
times glass, fixed into a branch naturally bent so as to form a
handle (fig. 7). They are then smeared over with grease and
liver kneaded into pulp, after which they are softened in the
hand until quite pliable, when they are placed on the ground
and cut with a small, very sharp knife into pieces, dovetailed
Ch. A^] WOMEN'S WOEK. 171
SO as to fit one into tlie otlier, in order to secure strength of
seam, and parcelled out amongst a party of four or six
women, with a corresponding quantity of needles and thread,
consisting of bodkins formed out of sharpened nails, and
dried sinews from the back of the adult guanaco. A whole
mantle is never sewn together at once, but when one half is
finished it is pegged out and the paint applied to it thus.
The siu'face is slightly damped, and each woman takes a cake
or piece of red ochre, if the ground is to be red, and, keeping
it damp, lays the paint on with great care. When tlje
ground is finished, the pattern of small black spots and blue
and yellow lines is painted with the greatest exactness, the
women working aU day with the most assiduous industr3^
When completed it is left for a night to dry, and the other
half and wings, which serve in lieu of sleeves, are duly com-
pleted, and subsequently all are joined together, presenting,
when finished, an unbroken surface of fur. The most
favourite pattern (except when the wearer is in mourning) is
a red ground with small black crosses and blue and yellow
longitudinal lines for borders, or with a zigzag of white, blue,
and red. The untiring energy with which the women work,
and the rapidity with which they sew, are astonishing. When
a man is married, his wife, or wives, of course manufacture his
mantles, assisted by their friends, whom they help in their
turn ; but should he be a bachelor, as in my unfortunate case,
he gives out his skins to a fair lady, who works like other
people I have heard of — on half-profits, and the hunter gene-
rally loses by the bargain ; at least such was my experience,
some thirty or forty skins only producing a mantle contain-
ing about one-third their number. Besides the guanaco
mantles which are most generally worn, others are made
from the skins of the fox, puma, wild cat, cavy, and skunk ;
the fur of the latter and of the wild cat are the most valuable,
but, like the others, are generally intended only for barter.
The women, besides making mantles, weave the fillets for the
head previously mentioned, from threads of unravelled stuff
obtained in barter at the settlements, or from their Arau-
canian neighbours. They work on the same principle a
172 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGOXIANS. [Ch. V.
that on which a sailor constructs a sword mat. Besides
these fillets, thej occasionally weave scarves for the waist, and
garters. Many of them also work in the minor details of
silver ornaments, such as hollowing out or bending the studs,
boring the holes, and stitching them on to the belts or
armour, as the case may be. They also sew the skins
together for the coverings of the toldos, which is very
laborious work. They scrape and dress horse-hides for the
furniture of the bed places, paintmg them in various pat-
terns ; make the bolsters of reeds (often also ornamented
with silver) to place as a protection for their high saddles,
cook the food, smash the marrow-bones and extract the
grease ; take care of the children, and fetch wood, water, and
do all the ' chores,' as the Americans say. As may be seen,
they are pretty nearly always occupied ; nevertheless, they
occasionally find time to play cards, and sometimes to
squabble and talk scandal.
The children generally employ themselves in imitating
their elders. The boj^s play with miniature bolas, and catch
the dogs with small lazos, and the girls construct miniature
toldos and sit in them; for this purpose they carry off un-
checked anything that may seem suitable. Frequently when
about to join the chase I had to interfere with these latter
games, and recover my saddle gear, which had been appro-
priated by the juveniles.
The musical instruments of the Tehuelches have been pre-
viously described. In Teckel, besides the native orchestra
(fig. 8) and harmonies, to which one had become accustomed,
we furthermore rejoiced in a cornet, with music from which
Jackechan's brother frequently enliveaed our evenings.
Many amongst the Tehuelches could blow the ordinary bugle
calls which they had been accustomed to hear when in the
Eio Negro or at Punta Arenas ; and most of them appeared
to possess a good ear for music. Their songs, however, are
not melodious, and are mere repetitions of words devoid of
all sense or meaning. Casimiro informed me that formerly
the old men were in the habit of singing the traditions of
the tribe and also some sort of prayer. It is much to be
Ch. v.] diet. 173
regretted that these customs have fallen into disuse. I tried
on various occasions to obtain information about their an-
cestors, but all my efforts were fruitless. When I asked
them how their people travelled before horses came into the
country, they coald not realise the fact that such was ever
the case.
There is little to add to the details already given of the
cookery and diet of the Tehuelches, which is necessarily
almost confined to meat, which, however, they do not devour
raw, as so constantly asserted. Fat is largely consumed,
both fresh and preserved ; the need of this being, as before
said, attributable to the want of farinaceous food. Still they
are very fond of all sorts of wild fruits and vegetables, when
procurable ; and besides the indigenous tuberous roots, and
the ever-present dandelion plants, which the girls gather for
their friends and relations, and which are eaten in a crude
state, they will when in the settlements barter their wares
for potatoes, turnips, and other vegetables. They are also
extremely fond of biscuit and flour, which they mix with
water into dampers, and bake them in the ashes. Previous
to my sojourn amongst them, pepper was, I believe, unknown,
but having a small store in my possession, I induced old
Orkeke and his dame to try it, and they and others soon
acquired a taste for it. Sugar, or anything sweet, they are
especially fond of. Salt is a very necessary commodity
with them, and when passing one of the numerous salinas
that occur in the country the stores are replenished. It
sometimes happens, however, if making a long stay in one
place, or travelling in parts where salinas are scarce, they
have to go without it ; and this is probably the cause of a
skin disease that at times occurs amongst them. Salt is
carried as a rule by the men when hunting, both to mix with
the blood, which is seldom eaten without it, and to season
the guanaco or ostrich meat.
I think that as a rule the Indians, far from being glutton-
ous gormandisers, eat less than civilised people. They never
eat at stated times, but when their appetite warns them ;
and on this point an Indian once made the remark to me :
174 AT n03IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. V.
'The Cliilians eat at regular liours, -wliicli is foolish; we
don't eat unless we are himgry.' I believe that I, as a single
individual, generally consumed more victuals than any Indian,
with the exception of my friend Cayuke, who was certainly
a great gourmand. He was also a great smoker ; and when-
ever I met him invariably said the few English words I had
taught him, ' Load and light the pipe — smoke.' The general
manner of smoking is as follows. The smoker lights his
pipe, and then lies prone on the ground, and after puffing a
portion of smoke to each cardinal point and muttering a
prayer, he swallows several mouthfuls of tobacco smoke,
which produces intoxication and partial insensibility, lasting
perhaps for the space of two minutes. During this time his
companions carefully avoid disturbing him in any way.
When it has passed ofP, he gets up, takes a drink of water,
and resumes his conversation or occupation. I have some-
times observed this intoxication accompanied by convulsions,
but only in rare cases. The tobacco used for smoking (for
they never chew) is generally obtained from the settlements,
but failing this a herb substitute is procured from the Arau-
canians. This is never smoked pure, being invariably mixed
with either wood chopped up small or 'yerba' (Paraguay
tea) stalks, if obtainable. The mixture with dung mentioned
by M. Guinnard is unknown among the Tehuelches.
The women sometimes are smokers, but the custom is not
imiversal, being generally confined to the old ladies. Most
of the men smoke, but there are exceptions. I was very
much astonished, however, by seeing El Sourdo on more
than one occasion give his pipe to his boy — a precocious
three-year-old — who whiffed his ' bacca ' with apparently
great satisfaction to himself and his fond father.
The chief amusements amongst the Indians (for hunting
is a matter of business and not pleasure) consist in horse-
racing, card-Inlaying, gambling with dice made by them-
selves with mathematical exactness from bones, and thrown
from the hand, or with small stones, and playing a game of
ball. The horse-racing has been already described. The
cards used are sometimes the Spanish pack, obtained in the
Ch. v.] card-playing. 175
settlements, but very frequently constructed by tbe Indians
tbemselvt's of hide. These, like the ordinary Spanish cards,
are marked with the Spanish numerals up to seven ; but the
court cards are entirely different, having, instead of figures
or pictures, monograms of native origin, the original signi-
ficance of which, if any, was undiscoverable. The ace, how-
ever, is marked somewhat similarly to our own. The usual
games played are ' Panturga,' 'Primero,' * Siete,' and ' Yaik,'
or fire, a sort of ' beggar my neighbour.' The players sit
down in a circle, with a poncho or saddle-cloth to represent
the board of green cloth ; their markers consist of pieces of
sticks or grass, and their system of marking is complicated.
I generally — if I did indulge in the luxury of a gamble —
played in partnership with another who took charge of the
marking, but my invariable good luck rendered me unwilling
to respond to the invitation to take a hand. When stakes
are lost, whether a horse, troop of mares, saddle, lazo, or
what not, the winner simj)ly sends a friend for them, or goes
himself and takes them; all debts of honour being scru-
pulously paid at once. Frequently large stakes are lost and
won. On one occasion I had negotiated the purchase of a
horse from an Indian possessed of a goodly troop, and
having given earnest, had started hunting on the animal to
test his staying powers. My friend the owner, who re-
mained in camp playing, came to me on my return, and
implored me to consider the bargain as nil, as during my
absence he had lost nearly all his horses, and some of the
articles of his wife's dowry. I of course gave up the bar-
gain, duly receiving back the earnest, and he subsequently
won back his horses and riches. The game plaj'ed with
small stones is similar to that in. vogue among schoolboys,
and known by the name of ' knucklebones.' It is generally
played by the boys, but their elders will not unfrequently
join. The women play at ca,rds, and also at this game
amongst themselves, staking their mandils, hides, and saddle-
gear on the results. Mrs. Orkeke was very fond of play,
and on one occasion I have reason to believe that she lost
some of her husband's tobacco, and laid the blame on one of
176 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
the Chilians, who she averred had stolen it. The man
nearly lost his life in consequence, and his tears and abject
supplications showed the terror he was in, but happily he
on this occasion escaped. Strange to say, I was in no way
suspected, although I knew where the tobacco was kept,
which I doubt if the deserter did.
The game of ball is confined to the young men, and is
played as follows : A lazo is laid on the ground so as to form
a ring about four yards in diameter ; the players, generally
eight in number, step into the circle naked, with the excep-
tion of the waistcloth. A ball composed of hide stuffed with
feathers, about the size of or larger than a tennis-ball, is used
by each party, who throw it up from under the thigh, and
strike it with the hand at the adversaries', each hit counting
a point. Great dexterity and activity are shown by the
young men, and although I never joined in any of their
regular matches I frequently watched the parties occuj)ied
in the game, in which their sj)lendid muscular development
was brought out conspicuously. Besides these amusements,
the Indians, when ammunition is plentiful, occasionally fire
at a mark ; but as their bullets are frequently hammered
round with stones, the practice is at times erratic, and the
guns are also sometimes more dangerous to the marksman
than the mark.
The daily routine of occupations and amusements is varied
sometimes by a fight, and more pleasantly by some one or
other of the ceremonials which mark — as in all nations — the
principal epochs of Tsoneca life, from the cradle to the
grave. On the birth of a child, if the parents are rich, i.e.
own plenty of mares and horses, and silver ornaments, notice
is immediately given to the doctor or wizard of the tribe,
and to the cacique and relations. The doctor, after bleeding
himself with bodkins in the temple, fore-arm, or leg, gives
the order for the erection of a mandil tent, or pretty house
as the Indians call it, and mares are slaughtered, and a feast
and dance follow, such as described in Chapter III., p. 7G as
having taken place in the valley of the Rio Chico. The
child, shortly after birth, is smeared over with damp gypsum.
Ch. v.] maeriage. 177
The mothers are able to travel on horseback the same, or,
certainly, the subsequent day, with the infant carried in a
wicker cradle, and most tenderly cared for by both parents.
To every child in its infancy horses and gear are allotted,
which are considered thenceforth as the personal property
of the boy or girl, and cannot be resumed or disposed of by
the parents. 'No ceremonial attends the naming a child,
nor, as far as I could see, is there any fixed time for doing
so. The names most commonly used are taken, I think,
from places— from the place of birth. Patronymics or here-
ditaiy names — except in rare instances, which appeared to
be imitations of Spanish usage — are unknown, but nick-
names are universal, and parents are frequently known by
the name of a child, which usurps the place of their own.
The boys soon learn the use of the weapons, and both boys
and girls ride almost before they can walk : the sons rarely
accompany the father to the chase before ten or twelve years
of age, and do not join in fights till they are about sixteen
years old, but there is no fixed j)eriod and no ceremonial to
mark their admission to the state of manhood. The attain-
ment of puberty by the girls is celebrated as described in p. 76.
From the age of nine or ten they are accustomed to help in
household duties and manufactures, and about sixteen are
eligible for the married life, though they often remain for
several years spinsters. Marriages are always those of in-
clination, and if the damsel does not like the suitor for her
hand, her parents never force her to comply with their wishes,
although the match may be an advantageous one.
The usual custom is for the bridegroom, after he has
secured the consent of his damsel, to send either a brother
or an intimate friend to the parents, offering so many mares,
horses, or silver ornaments for the bride. If the parents
consider the match desirable, as soon after as circumstances
will permit, the bridegroom, dressed in his best, and mounted
on his best horse, decorated with silver ornaments — if he
possesses any — proceeds to the toldo of his intended, and
hands over the gifts. The parents of the bride then return
gifts of an equal value, which, however, in the event of a
178 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
separation (a rare event), become tlie property of the bride.
After tbis the bride is escorted bj the bridegroom to bis
toldo, amidst tbe cheers of his friends and the singing of the
women. Mares are usually then slaughtered and eaten on
the spot; great care being taken that the dogs do not
touch any of the meat or ofPal, as it is considered unlucky.
The head, backbone, tail, together with the heart and liver,
are taken up to the top of a neighbouring hill, as an offering
to the Gualichu, or evil spirit. An Indian is allowed to
have as many wives as he can support, but it is rare to find
a man with more than two, and they generally only have
one.
On the death of a Tehuelche all his horses, dogs, and other
animals are killed, his ponchos, ornaments, bolas, and all
other personal belongings are placed in a heap and burned,
the widow and other womankind keeping up a dismal wailing,
and crying out loud in the most melancholy manner. The
meat of the horses is distributed amongst the relations on
both sides ; and the widow, who cuts her hair short in front
and assumes black paint, repairs, bag and baggage, to the
toldo of her relations, or if she has none in the party, to the
toldo of the chief.
The body is sewn up in a mantle, poncho, or coat of mail,
if the deceased possessed one, and is taken away by some of
the relations and buried in a sitting posture, its face to the
east, a cairn of stones being erected over the place, varying
in size according to the wealth and influence of the deceased.
I have never seen any of the graves described in Mr. Wood's
work, but as my travels as a rule were confined to the in-
terior, they may exist in some part of the sea-coast; nor did
the exhumation and removal of the body ever come under my
notice, and I should be inclined to doubt its being ever
practised by the Tehuelches, inasmuch as it is a rule amongst
them never to mention the name of, and to avoid all allusion
to, the deceased, their idea being that the dead should be
utterly forgotten, though they will add a stone in passing to
the cairn of a distinguished chief or hero. The death of
a child is marked by a display of sincere grief on the part of
Cji. v.] rUNERAL RITES. — RELIGION. 179
tlie parents. The liorse it has been accustomed to travel on
during the march is brought up, the gear placed on it, even
to the cradle, and the horse, thus fully caparisoned, is
strangled bj means of lazos, whereas in all other ceremonies
■where horses are killed they are knocked on the head with
bolas. The saddle gear, cradle, and all belonging to the
child are burned, the women crying and singing. The
parents moreover throw their own valuables into the fire to
express their grief. These things some of the women who
cry are allowed to snatch out, as a recompense for their
services, but they seldom benefit much. On the occasion of
the death of an only cliild of rich parents, fourteen horses
and mares were slaughtered in addition to the one it had
been accustomed to travel on. Towards evening of the day
of the event, previous to the burial of the corpse, a select
party of old women marched in procession round and round
the camp, crying and wailing. Gifts were also sent to the
bereaved parents by the chiefs and relations, as a well-meant
effort to divert their minds from dwelling on their loss. , ^
_^v The religion of the Tehuelches is distinguished from that
of the Pampas and Araucanians by an absence of any trace
of sun-worship, although the new moon is saluted, the
respectful gesture being accompanied by some low muttered
words which I never could manage to hear. They believe in
a great and good Spirit, who. according to the tradition
related_bx^asi^iii-q at thel)Iace, created the Indians and
,^nima]s, and dispersed' them from' ' God's-hill,' as he ex-
plainedT the" Indian name of the down (p. 89). I am not at
all certain that this was not a confused combination of the
story of the Creation, as told by the missionaries, with his
own ideas. There is a great tendency in the Indian mind
thus to combine the marvels told them, or even to cap what
they_£onsider one legend with another; but there is no
doubt that they do believe in a good Spirit, though they
think he lives ' careless of mankind.' They have no idols or
objects of worship, nor — if a year's experience can enable one
to judge— do they observe any periodical religious festival,
on which either the good or evil Spirit is adored. The men-
N 2
180 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V
tion of this by other travellers can only be explained by
confused accounts which have attributed Araucanian customs
to the totally distinct Patagonians. The belief which prompts
all their religious acts is that in the existence of many active
and malicious evil spirits or demons, of whom the principal
one is always on the watch to cause mischief. To propitiate or
drive away this spirit is the function of the wizard, or doctor,
or medicine man, who combines the medical and magical
arts, though not possessed of an exclusive faculty for either.
All sacrifices of mares and horses, not at stated times, but"
as occasion requires, such as a birth, death, &c., are intended
to propitiate the Gualichu. When a child hurts itself, the
slaughter of mares seems to partake at once of the nature of \
a thank-offering that the hurt was no worse, and a propitia- \
tion to avert further harm. y"^
In camp the Gualichu takes up his position outside the
back of the toldo, watching for an opportunity to molest the
inmates, and is supposed to be kept quiet by the sjDells of the
doctor, who is not only gifted with the power of laying the
devil, but can even detect him by sight. I inquired of one
of the doctors what he was like, but received an evasive
answer ; on which I informed him that my devil took all
sorts of shapes — sometimes appearing as a guanaco, ostrich,
puma, skunk, or vulture, at which the medical man was
intensely amused. This household devil is, as far as I could
ascertain, supposed to enter into the different parts of the
bodies of people, and cause sickness which the doctor is
appealed to to cure. The treatment in the case of headache,
for instance, is very simple : the doctor takes the patient's head
between his knees, and performing a short ceremony of incan-
tation, shouts in his ear, exhorting the devil to come out.
Mr. Clarke, when travelling with the Indians south of Santa
Cruz, was treated in this fashion when sufferino- from feverish
headache, and said that at the time it relieved him.
Besides this Gualichu there are many others which
are supposed to inhabit subterranean dw^ellings, underneath
certain woods and rivers and peculiarly-shaped rocks. I
was very much surprised at seeing the Indians salute these
Cir. v.] WITCHCRAFT AND OMENS. 181
objects by placing the hand to tlie bead and muttering an
incantation ; and for a long time held to the belief that they
were only expressing admiration for the Creator's handi-
work; but subsequently I learned that they sought thus
to conciliate the spirits of these places, reputed to be the
spirits of deceased members of the faculty. These devils'
j)Owers, however, are confined to the districts contiguous to
their habitations.
On one occasion, a horse about to run a match was taken
up to a neighbouring hill before daylight by the owner, and
some secret ceremony was performed by the wizard. Previous
to the race the owner (Waki) came to me and advised me to
put my stakes on his horse, as he had been made safe to win
by mysterious incantations which had secured the favour of
the local Gualichu ; and, strange to say, the horse, which by
his appearance was much inferior to the other, did win,
thereby establishing a reputation for the wizard and the
Gualichu.
I remember on one occasion "svhen riding with Hinchel we
came in sight of a peculiarly-pointed rock, which he saluted.
I did the same, at w^hich he appeared much pleased ; and on
our subsequently arriving at a salina, where we found good
salt, much needed at the time, he explained to me that the
spirit of the place had led us in that direction. In the
meeting of Indians the devils are supposed to be driven away
by the horsemen chasing at full speed round and round, and
firing off their guns.
The office of wiza.rd is not hereditary ; indeed those I met
with were unmarried. A boy or a girl, if what we should
call odd, as in the case of Cayuke's daughter, an old-fashioned
and eccentric girl of thirteen, is considered to be marked
out as a wizard ; but the functions, so far as directing cere-
monies, are sometimes performed by an ordinary member of
the party. The stock in trade of the regular wizard consists
of a few fetishes, or charms, carried in a bag, carefully con-
cealed from public gaze, and exhibited to his colleagues
alone. In addition to these they seem to possess a real
knowledge of simples, although this is not confined to them.
182 AT HOaiE WITH THE PATAU ONIANS. [Ch. V.
Their professional oijerations are never accompanied by-
epileptic seizures and real or simulated convulsions. They,
of course, are expected to prognosticate the success or failure
of undertakings, and the issue of sickness, and foretell the
future generally ; and their position in this respect is a dan-
gerous one, as a failure of their predictions is frequently
punished with death ; but, to make up for this risk, they are
universally received with honour and hospitably entertained,
and are usually enriched by the accumulation of presents.
The power of witchcraft is by no means believed to be con-
fined to them ; any person may be suspected of this crime,
and it is not an uncommon occurrence for people when
dying to lay their death to the charge of some person by
name. All the missionaries' instructions did not prevent
Casimiro, after the death of either his mother or one of his
wives, from sending an agent to kill a woman who, as the
deceased averred, had bewitched her. Certain signs and
omens are super stitiously regarded ; one particularly dreaded
is the cry of the nightjar, common on the slopes of the Cor-
dillera, which, if uttered over a camp or toldo, betokens
sickness or death to some of the inmates. They hold this
bird in great veneration, and object to its being injured in
any manner. Another animal supposed to be possessed of
magical powers is a flat toad-like lizard, which is believed
to lame horses by mysterious agency, and is killed whenever
met with. Another superstition is that a two-headed guanaco
exists in the south, the appearance of which is a forerunner
of sickness. According to my informant, after its last ap-
pearance measles, or a similar disease, decimated the Southern
tribe, the disease having been propagated by communica-
tion with Punta A.renas, where it was at that time rife.
Any unfamiliar object that they do not comprehend, as for
instance, a compass or a watch, is regarded with suspicion
as being tenanted by an evil spirit. Sometimes these objects
are supposed to bring luck at play, and are eagerly sought
for. One of my companions was possessed of a watch,
obtained in Punta Arenas, and, before playing cards, he would
often ask me to set it going, the ticking being regarded as
Ch. v.] tsoneca language. 1'83
the voice of the hidden Gualichu. My compass was also in
constant demand, but the privilege of temporary possession
Avas necessarily restricted to a few favoured friends. I ex-
j)lained, to the best of my power, the use of this instrument,
which was comprehended by many of them ; and they became
very fond of asking me to point out the precise direction of
various points known to them, and were greatly delighted at
the correctness with which their inquiries were generally
satisfied. A locket, worn by me round my neck, was also
regarded as a talisman, securing the wearer from death.
With all this superstition, regard for omens, and belief in
demons, they by no means accord implicit faith and respect
to the wizards. Nor do they trust to their spells alone in
case of disease ; many possess an acquaintance with me-
dicinal herbs, and apply them with good effect. Besides
being good farriers, they practise blood-letting, not only on
the sick, but, like our grandfathers, at regular seasons have
themselves blooded, believing it to be beneficial. Casimiro
declared that the superior health of the Tehuelches, com-
pared with that of the colonists or Christians, was attri-
. butable to this practice. They also understand and some-
times employ j)oisons, not to envenom their weapons, but
for secretly taking off an enemy. Such cases are rare, but
in one, which came under my own observation, beyond all
doubt, death was caused by poisoring the inside of a potro
boot, the wearer of which had a slight wound on the leg.
Inquirers into the Tsoneca language are referred to the
vocabulary in the Appendix ; but it is needful to state most
distinctly that it is altogether different from either Pampa
or Araucanian. Though able to converse in Tehuelche, I
could not at all understand the Pampas ; and this is noted
with reference to statements made in M. Guinnard's work,
which, coupled with other internal evidences already alluded
to, compel me to doubt that the author was ever in the
hands of the real Patagonians, his captors and masters
being Pampas or Araucanos, whose customs are well de-
scribed by him.
As distinguished from these Indians, the number of the
184 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. Y.
pure Tehuelclies, both northern and southern, in Patagonia
does not exceed 1,500 men, women, and children, according
to the returns of effective wai-riors given at the time when
the union of all the various parties, combined during my
journey for political purposes, enabled me to compute them
with exactness. Beyond the two great divisions into northern
and southern, the subdivisions of tribes, so frequently given,
are imaginary, or arise out of names of temporary leaders.
Nor is the term clan very appropriate to the nomad parties,
combined by custom or often by chance. The population is
steadily and rapidly decreasing, and the inroads of disease
and ill effects of liquor are, as usual, doing the work of ex-
tirpation of this race.
As to their organisation, it must be distinctly understood
that these Indians owe no manner of allegiance to any head
cacique, such as Calficura, or any other, though they may agree
to obey one chief, as, for instance, Casimiro ; nor are they,
except by intermarriage or voluntary association, politically
united with either Pampas or Araucanians. Their natural
bias is to independence, and rather insubordinate ideas of
' one man being as good as another.' Cuastro's dying words,
' I die as I have lived — no cacique orders me,' aptly express
the prevalent feeling on this subject. Nevertheless, all
' parties,' however small, are, when travelling, under the
command of a cacique or ' gownok,' who is sometimes also
designated by the more endearing epithet of 'yank,' or
father; but his influence is very frequently confined to
ordering the march and chase. Some of the chiefs are
hereditary, but it is not invariably the rule ; and amongst
the northern Indians there are many petty chiefs, who are
men that, having become possessed of a few mares and
horses, assume the title of cacique. Great etiquette is ob-
served between them ; one chief bemg prohibited by custom
from entering the toldo of another unless presents have_
previously been interchanged. Another curious point of
etiquette is, that a man is not allowed to look towards his
father-in-law when in conversation with him ; this is, how-
ever, not confined to the aristocracy, but also applies to the
Ch. v.] tehuelciie chaeacter. 185
common herd. When two parties of Indians are approachii-'g
one another, and sufficiently near to distinguish the smoke
of the hunting-fires, a signal-fire is lighted, and a chasqni —
called bj the Tehuelches coeto — generally some relative of
the chiefs, is despatched from either side. On meeting they
repair to the camp of the most powerful, and, on arriving
near, more horsemen sally out and escort them to the toldo
of the chief. On arrival the new comer dismounts, his horses
and gear are taken charge of, and he is shown, with great
formality, to a seat, where he patiently remains, sometimes
for an hour, answering, with grave face, all questions ; and
then delivers any message he may be entrusted with.
Although he may be wearied, tired, and hungry, he never
moves until the formalities are concluded ; he is then pro-
vided with the best food and accommodation his host is
possessed of.
It is to be hoped that the narrated actual life in the
toldos will have enabled the reader to form an idea of
the character of the Tehuelches more favourable than that
which — except by the missionaries, Messrs. Hunziker and
Schmid — has usually been assigned to them. They certainly
do not deserve the epithets of ferocious savages, brigands of
the desert, &c. They are kindly, good tempered, impulsive
children of nature, taking great likes or dislikes, becoming
firm friends or equally confirmed enemies. They are very
naturally suspicious of strangers, but especially those of
Spanish origin, or, as they term them, Cristianos. Nor,
considering the treatment, treacherous cruelty and knavish
robbery, experienced by them at the hands of the invaders
and colonists alternately, is this to be wondered at.
In the southern part of the country, their frequent inter-
course with sealers on the coast has rendered them favourably
disposed towards Englishmen. This remark, of course, does
not extend to the northern Tehuelches, who have not the
same opportunities.
In my dealings with them I was always treated with
fairness and consideration, and my few belongings — although
borrowed at times, according to their mutual way of acting
186 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
towards one another — were taken the greatest care of; thus
an Indian would frequently ask to look at my arms, and,
after examming them, would carefully return them to me.
During my whole stay amongst them I only lost two articles :
the first, a flint and steel, was, I have reason to believe, stolen
by one of the Chilians ; the second was a pair of ostrich balls,
which were abstracted from the toldo. The Indians, although
honest enough as regards each other, will, nevertheless, not
scruple to steal from any one not belonging to their party.
Thus, when they enter the colonies for trade, they will pick
up a stray horse in the most natural manner ; and in Santa
Cruz, Graviel and others constantly pilfered iron nails and
small articles. With regard to their truthfulness, my ex-
perience was as follows. In minor affairs they nearly always
lie, and will invent stories for sheer amusement; thus,
Mrs. Orkeke came to me whilst in Teckel with the news that
Casimiro's wife was dead. My remark was, 'And a good
riddance too ! ' which was received with a burst of laughter,
and the information that she was as alive as ever, only her
eyes were bad. I could cite many other similar instances of
romancing on the part of the Indians. Old Orkeke I never
caught out in a direct lie, and he always, when informing
me about any subject, added, ' I do not lie.' In anything of
importance, however, such as guaranteeing the safety of a
person, they were very truthful, as long as faith was kept
with them. After a time, when they ascertained that I in-
variably avoided deviating in any way from the truth, they
left off lying to me even in minor matters. This will serve
to show that they are not of the treacherous nature assigned
to them by some ignorant writers. Hor are they habitually
cruel, even to slaves or captives. The Chilian deserters were
always w^ell housed and fed, and lent horses to ride ; and
nothing but their incurably bad dispositions and constant
plots brought on them a fate which, in truth, could hardly
be thought ill-deserved, whereas the few good ones of the
party rose into high favour.
For my own part, I felt far safer amongst the Tehuelches,
as long as they had no drink or no fights, than I subsequently
Ch. v.] teiiuelciie character. 187
did ill the Rio Negro. Of course when they are drunk their
passions become unbridled ; they remember old feuds, and at
times will fight for mere fighting's sake. It is not necessaiy,
however, to go so far as Patagonia to observe this. The
fiinest trait, perhaps, in their character is their love for their
wives and children ; matrimonial disputes are rare, and wife-
beating unknown ; and the intense grief with which the loss
of a wife is mourned is certainly not ' civilised,' for the
widower will destroy all his stock and burn all his posses-
sions : thus Paliki, before the death of his wife, was a wealthy
Indian ; but when I knew him he was poor and reckless,
having destroyed all his property, and taken to gambling
and drinking in despair at his loss. Casimiro even declared
that his son Sam — whom I certainly should not have sus-
pected of disinterested affection for any human being — had
ruined himself, and become careless of his life, after his
wife's death. .
The children are indulged in every way, ride the best
horses, and are not corrected for any misbehaviour. I was
always astonished that the youths and young men did not
grow up more headstrong and wilful, as a result of want of
training. People who have no children of their own some-
times adopt a little dog, on which they lavish their affections,
and bestow horses and other valuables, which are destroyed
in case of the owner's death. —
It has always been a matter of surprise to me that the
missionaries should have been so unsuccessful in their efforts
to teach these children of nature to read and write, for they
are naturally very intelligent (though of course there are ex-
ceptions) . As a proof of their quickness in imitations, with
very little trouble I taught Hinchel's son to write his father's
name and those of two other Indians in a very short time. I
also used to draw ships on a board with a piece of charcoal for
the children's amusement, and they readily copied them.
Hinchel himself, wishing to explain a part of the course of
the E-io Negro, drew out a rough chart on the board, showing
the bends of the river, which I afterwards found to be per-
fectly coi'rect.
188 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. V.
Whilst in their native wilds, I observed little immorality
amongst the Indians ; in the settlements, however, when
debased by intoxication, they are, no doubt, depraved and
loose in their ideas. But it must be recorded that, on the
entry of the Indians into the settlements of the Rio Negro,
at a subsequent period, most of the young women and girls
were left with the toldos in Valchita, outside the Travesia,
to be out of the way of temptations. There are many Tehuel-
che youths now growing up who have the greatest abhorrence
of liqiior ; and I hoj)e that in time this abstinence will spread
further among them, for they possess no intoxicants of their
own, and the rum is an import from the Christians, the ill
effects of which they are well able to discern.
One word of advice to the future traveller may conclude
this imperfect sketch. Never show distrust of the Indians ;
be as free with your goods and chattels as they are to each
other. Don't ever want anything done for you; always
catch and saddle your own horse. Don't give yourself airs
of superiority, as they do not understand it — unless you can
prove yourself better in some distinct way. Always be first,
as you are not likely to be encumbered by a wife or gear, in
crossing rivers, or any other difficulties ; they will learn by
degrees to respect you ; in a word, as you treat them so they
will treat you.
Ch. VI.] CASIMIRO'S HOUSEHOLD. 189
CHAPTEE VI.
TECKEL TO GEYLUM.
Casimiro's Ilouseliolcl. — Carge-kaik. — Quintuhuars Son. — Woolkein. —
Partridges. — Meeting with the Araucanians. — The Cacique Qiiintu-
hual. — Esgel-kaik. — Araucanian Belles. — Communication with Chupat
Colony. — Diplaik. — Calficura's Declaration of War. — Tehuelches learn
Fishing. — My Indian Eelatives.— Woodland Eambles. — An Indian
Paradise. — The Upper Chupat. — Cushamon. — Losing Horses. — Official
Functions. — Message from Las Manzanas. — Blessing the Liquor. —
Casimiro Intoxicated. — Foyel's Encampment. — CTreat Parlemento. —
Foyel's Ideas.— Gatchen-kaik. — Arrival at Geylum.
On January 21 tlie word was given to march, and all the
united forces of the Tehuelches, numbering* 200 men, with
the usual allowance of women and children, prepared to ad-
vance to join the Araucanos. Ten toldos, forming Crime's
party, lingered behind, in consequence of the continued sick-
ness of this caciquillo, who, however, sent word that he
would foUoAv in our rear.
All the horses were in excellent condition, and it was with
great delight that I saw the immense cavalcade set out. Our
family party in Casimiro's toldo included, besides the chief
and his wife, sons, and little daughter Chingook, an old
brother-in-law, Kai, nicknamed Chileno, and his wife and
son Macho; and an old deaf and dumb woman of most
repulsive aspect. The only good feature in Casimiro's cha-
racter was his charity. He was always ready to afford an
asylum to any destitute or infirm people, and his toldo was
never without some such object of his pity. My honourable
position as secretary and general referee next in rank to the
cacique, scarcely reconciled me to the exchange of the orderly
comfort of Mrs. Orkeke's household for the dignified discom-
190 AT H03IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. YI.
fort of my present quarters. Tiiej vrere also shared by
Mena, whose good qualities had raised him above his fellow
Chilians. Their number had been reduced to four, Arica
having disappeared whilst hunting near Teckel : without
doubt his quarrelsome disposition had occasioned his death
at the hands of some one whom he had insulted or offended.
The route followed led northwards through a valley on both
sides of which we hunted, and arrived in the afternoon at an
encampment called Carge-kaik, or Four Hills. There was
nothing remarkable in the scenery : the hill- sides on either
hand were covered with scrub, and the summits presented
masses of rocks, and in some places loose boulders, amongst
which numerous armadilloes were basking in the sun. They
are easily captured, as they are very slow ; but if they once
get into their burrow it is difficult to extract them, owing to
the tenacity with which they hold fast to the soil. They are
ver}^ good eating, and are usually cooked in the shell on the
fire, the entrails, &c., being taken out, and the cavity filled
wdth heated stones. When they are in their best condition, one
leg is sufficient for a man, as there is about an inch of yellow
fat on them. Of the shells the women make work-baskets,
to contain their bodkins, sinews, &c., when sewing, or to
serve as colour-boxes for the different colours when painting.
The day following our arrival, Tankelow and another Indian
were despatched as messengers to the party of Araucanian In-
dians, or Manzaneros, supposed to be encamped a few marches
distant. During that night a child was born, the parents of
which were rich, and accordingly a great slaughter of mares
took place, the mandil tent was erected, and a feast and dance
announced.
Meanwhile, about 4 p.m., the chasquis returned, bringing
with them an Araucanian Indian, who was escorted to our
toldo in due form amidst a curious crowd, all eac-er to look
at him, while he preserved a grave and stolid demeanour.
After the usual ceremonious formalities he sat down, and by
means of an interpreter stated himself to be a son of Quintu-
hual, a chief residing at present about four marches to the
north. His father had with much pleasure received the
Cii. VI.] DANCING COSTUME. 191
courteous message sent by Casimiro, and it would give him
equal gratification to welcome the Tehuelches ; but he signi-
fied a desire first to meet Casimiro alone. This the latter
monarch did not apj)ear to see in the same light — if I may
be allowed the expression — as it seemed to forebode no good
intentions ; but he replied evasively, and thus the colloquy
terminated.
This Indian was about the middle height, dressed in
coloured ponchos, with a silk handkerchief round his head.
His features were regular, with restless sparkling black eyes,
and complexion about the same as that of the Gauchos of
the Rio de la Plata. He wore his hair cut short, and his
general cleanly appearance afibrded a strong contrast to the
flowing locks and paint-bedaubed bodies of the Tehuelches.
Giving up my sleeping place to him, we soon made him at
home, and after he had had some dinner we proceeded in
company to watch the dancers, who were vigorously stepping
out round the fire in front of the mandil tent. Here we were
joined by Jackechan, Avhose knowledge of the Araucanian
language enabled us to maintain a, conversation. Presently,
by particular request, I joined Golwin (White) and two
others in the dance, coming out in full costume of ostrich
feathers and girdle of bells, and properly painted, to the
great delight of the Indians. My performance elicited
general applause ; and at last all retired for the night, my-
self taking my saddle-gear and sleeping under a bush near
the toldo.
After a delicious breakfast of fried fish, cooked most
skilfully by Mena, we prepared to march again, the chasqui
bidding us farewell for the present, and by 9 a.m. the whole
cavalcade of women and children were in motion, and the
circle formed for the hunt.
Several shallow streams, fringed with dwarf beeches, were
crossed, flowing into lagoons or into the Teckel E.iver, the
course of which lay north east of our line, and the cavalcade
of women struck the valley occasionally in the march. Of
the hills dividing these streams, the southern side consisted
of gradual slopes covered with coarse grass, while the
192 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
northern coiinterslo])es were precipitous, and covered with
loose rocks and stones. Orkeke, in the previous marches,
had often informed me that the Araucanos' country was very-
stony, and that there were a great many armadilloes, but
little other game ; and this day guanaco were rarely seen,
but ostriches were numerous and armadillo abounded.
After crossing several ridges and glens, we at length tra-
versed a hilloclsy plain, of the usual scrub-covered aspect,
and strewn with flint, agate, and other pebbles, and en-
camped for the night in a place called ' Woolkein,' situated
by the side of a water- course which was now nearly dry, the
water only remaining in the deep holes. We had left the
cafion or valley of the river Teckel a few miles east, from
which point it appeared to give a sharp turn in an easterly
direction.
To the west the mountains of the Cordillera were visible
about twenty miles distant, while on the south were the
rocky abrupt hills already passed over, and on the north a
range of rather peaked hills running west, and appearing to
slope at their western extremity towards the plains beneath
the Cordillera. Next morning, before the rime was off the
pasture, we were again en route, and after a rocky descent of
perhaps fifty feet reached a second plain, everywhere strewn
with stones, which rendered galloping very difficult ; never-
theless a large herd of guanaco were enclosed and numbers
killed, while ostrich, on the contrary, appeared to be very
scarce. To my great surprise, whilst running some guanaco,
two large partridges got up from close to my horse's feet,
and flying a short distance settled again. Partridges had
been described to me in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz,
but I had never seen one, and these were the first met with
in the country. Towards three in the afternoon we emerged
from the stony district to a plain covered with sand and
scrub, and after refreshing ourselves at a rivulet, travelled
westward, with the Cordillera in full front, till we turned a
high cliff which jutted out from the grassy slopes in which
the hills fell gradually down to the plains, and beyond it,
Ch. VI. J MEETING WITH THE ARAUCANIANS. 1 93
turning again nortliward, entered a level plain, at tlie far ex-
tremity of wliicli we observed with great contentment the
answering smoke from the toldos of the Araucanian Indians.
On the south-west edge of this valley the high beetling cliff
obscured the view of the wooded mountains, which, ho^vever,
showed out between the hills shutting in the valley we had
traversed up to this point. On the eastern side rose a range
of hills, barren and desolate, with here and there a single
guauaco in solitary majesty, cropping the stunted grass. In
front of us, directly to the north, lay a large lagoon, in which
numerous swans and flamingoes were wading and swimming
about. Beyond it were visible the toldos of the Araucanians,
ten in number.
"VVe halted near the head of the lagoon, under shelter of
some thick bushes, to collect our forces, don our best ponchos
and silver ornaments, and change our horses, and then pro-
ceeded slowly to within about a quarter of a mile of the
toldos. To our great surprise nobody appeared to receive
us ; but at length a woman arrived with the intelligence that
all the men were away hunting, but had been sent for, and
would arrive shortly.
Our women meanwhile erected the toldos oil a green
sward, carpeted with strawberry plants, near to a small
stream which divided our camp from that of the Araucanos.
All dismounted and rested after the long journey of fully
forty miles from the previous station ; and in about half an
hour the Araucanos appeai'ed, galloping like demons. Their
women having previously brought up their fresh horses, they
were in almost less time than it takes to write it in the
saddle, and formed into excellent line, lances in hand, wait-
ing for us to go through the ceremony of welcome. In about
five minutes our ranks were dressed, and the usual galloping,
shouting, and ceremonious greetings gone through. I was
particularly struck wdth the bold, honest bearing of the
young men of this party, who, dressed in gay-coloured
ponchos, with clean linen drawers and white flannel vests
underneath, presented a most civilised appearance. More
o
1 94 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
noticeable than the remamcler, Avho numbered but twenty-
seven in all, were four brothers, particularly handsome,
robust men, with florid complexions, who at a distance,
where the colour of their eyes could not be distinguished,
looked almost like Europeans; Avhich remark made to El
Sourdo, who was my riglit-hand man during the performance,
called forth the reply in a low voice, ' Very much devil
these Indians ; perhaps fight.' That he could have enter-
tained the idea when we were at least ten times their
number, speaks volumes for the Araucanian character for
bravery.
However, all passed off quietly, and a council was fixed
for the following day. As we were returning to the toldos
we observed some of the Araucanians bringing up a flock of
sheep, and others a herd of cattle, from some woods border-
ing the stream, which flowed to the northward. On the
eastern side of the valley some four or five hundred horses
and mares were grazing on the green pasture ; and Hinchel
pointed out to me with great glee the horses and mares —
about a hundred head — owned by his eldest son, who had
married an Araucanian woman, and resided with them ;
and the proud father declared that we should not want for
food, as he likewise owned cattle and sheep.
Casimiro informed me that many years ago whilst travel-
ling northwards he met these same Indians on foot. Their
custom was to hunt with large dogs that they kept expressly
for the chase, and dividing the meat equally, carry it back
on their shoulders to the toldos. They also when on the
march loaded themselves with their household gear, leaving
bags of grease hung up in the trees for future use. He left
them a couple of mares, from which part of their present
stock is sprung. This story, however, should be taken with
reservation, although it is perfectly possible that in some
fight their horses were taken from them, and that subse-
quently, when all the Indians were joined together under the
Cacique Lenketrou to invade the settlements, they received
a share of the spoils, and have since added to their stock by
trade.
Ch. VI.] QUINTUHUAL. 195
The day following our arrival a council was held, and an
interchange of presents took place. Here I made the
acquaintance of the old chief Quintuhual, and presented
him with a dagger. He was a short, heavilj-built man, with
a grave and indeed solemn expression ; but he had a bad
name for getting intoxicated and using knife or revolver
freelj — in fact, running a-muck. He was of course a rela-
tion— nephew, it was said — of Casimiro ; but notwithstand-
ing, he at first received me with great suspicion, and when,
in answer to his inquiries as to what I was and why I came,
he was informed that I was in the service of the Cacique
of England, who wished the Indians well, but that T ha.d
visited these parts for my own pleasure, he replied that he
was not a boy to be humbugged easily; but having instituted
private inquiries, he soon changed his tone, showing me the
greatest civility, and was never tired of asking questions
about England and Englishmen.
Here the letters forwarded some time previously, which
we had thought were by this time arrived at Patagones, were
handed back to us. They had been forwarded to Foyel's ^
people, but owing to those sent by me for England being
written on pink note-j)aper they were returned, the Indians
considering the colour of the paper to denote war.
Quintuhual had with him a Yaldivian or Chilote named
Juan Antonio, who acted as interpreter. This little man, who
had originally come from what he called his ' Pago,' some-
where in the vicinity of Porto Montt, bringing liquor to trade
with the Indians, had concluded to remain with them, esteem-
ing himself to be better off" as a poor man in the Pampas in
company with Indians, than in the like station in the settle-
ments. He of course spoke the Araucanian language, which
is generally used in Valdivia, but was conversant with the
Spanish tongue. Off his horse he was a miserable little
specimen of a man, and though tolerated by Quintuhual,
was looked upon as what Spaniards term ' Infeliz,' or unfor-
tunate one.
After a while the council broke up, but Crime arriving
• Also called Poyol.
o 2
196 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
with tlie teu expected toldos, was resumed the following day ;
Qaintuhual finally agreeing to unite his party with the
Tehuelches, and proceed under Casimiro's banner to Las
Manzanas.
The Chilote Juan Antonio paid us a visit in the evening,
and informed us that the toldos had been several months in
this place, which was named Esgel-kaik ; the men having
been absent huntings first the young guanaco, and after-
wards catching and taming cattle in the Cordillera.
By his account these Indians were great adepts with the
lazo, and would gallop through the forests in chase of
animals in the most wonderful manner ; one man only being
required to catch and secure an animal, and then proceeding
to capture another. How different from our dreadful failure^
where seven men could not lazo one animal !
He further stated that with Foyel's Indians, who were
distant a few marches to the north, eight Valdivians had for
the last two years been employed catching cattle, and having
now succeeded in getting together a herd of about eighty
head, intended shortly to return to Valdivia.
The third day after our arrival I visited the toldos of our
new allies ; and while talking to one of the principal Indians,
named Malakou, who could speak a little Spanish, was asked
if I could repair firearms, and one or two very antique speci-
mens of flint pistols and blunderbusses were produced, the
locks of which were wood-bound. Half an hour served to
set these to rights, at which the owners were much delighted,
and offered me tobacco, &c., which however I refused, taking
instead a hide to make a small lazo*
After bidding, not adieu, but au revoir, to my new friends,
whilst strolHng back I was called into a toldo where four
women were sitting sewing mantles. One, who appeared to
be of the Pampa tribe, old and ugly, spoke Spanish, and
stated that she was formerly in the Rio Negro with the
cacique Chingoli. She acted as spokeswoman for the
others, three tall, buxom lasses, daughters of a brother of
Quintuhual, who was Capitanejo of the j)arfcy. They were
gaily dressed in variegated ponchos, with silk handkerchiefs
Ch. VI.] IIORSE-RACINO. 197
bound round their fine glossy hair, which was plaited into
two long- tails, and set off their clear, fresh complexions
charmingly. The first question they asked me was where I
came from. On answering ' From the direction in which the
sun rises,' they asked if it wasn't very hot there. They then
asked if I had ever been above in the sky ; if I had not been
dead one time and come to life again; whether Casimiro
had not been dead and come back again, and various other
questions of the same description.
After satisfying their curiosity to the best of my ability,
and smoking a pipe, I received a message by Juan Antonio
that Quintuhual wanted to see me in his toldo. Proceeding
thither, I was shown to a seat on a poncho, and discoursed
with the old chief for half an hour ; at the end of which he
made me a present of a ' jurga,' or, as the Tehuelches term
it, ' lechu,' a sort of blanket made by their women, similar to
the poncho, except, instead of two parts with an opening for
the head to pass through, it consists of an entire piece. It
was perfectly new, having been just completed by his
daughters.
After a good dinner we adjourned to see the races, a great
match being on between the two tribes. The course was
about four miles ; and the race resulted in a victory for the
Tehuelches. Both sides had backed their favourites heavily ;
and as on this occasion the ladies took a prominent s'hare in
the betting, the Tehuelches were in great glee, having won
from the fair Araucanians many valuable mandils and lechus.
In the evening a grand feast took place, with a mandil tent
and dance.
Near this place grew a quantity of the wild potatoes, and
the women used to start early in the morning and come back
towards evening with their horses loaded. The tubers were
the largest I had seen, and closely resembled the sweet
potato in flavour. The usual way of cooking them was
boiling in a pot, a sod of earth being placed over all to keep
the steam in.
We made a stay of eight days in Esgel-kaik, amusing our
selves by racing, visiting the Araucanos, and passing a very
198 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
pleasant time, the only drawback being tbe illness of Crime,
who grew gradually worse.
The day before our departure Jackechan and El Sourdo
intimated that, as they feared a disturbance, and wished to
keep clear of any fight, they would not accompany us to Las
Manzanas, but purposed to proceed in the direction of
Chupat, and send in a messenger to the Welsh colony. So I
at once took the opportunity of forwarding a letter to Mr.
Lewis Jones, requesting certain supplies of yerba, tobacco,
and sugar.
On February 5th the whole camj) broke up, Jackechan and
two toldos marching to the north-east, and the remainder,
who now formed an extensive train, marching almost due
north. Before leaving Jackechan sent one of his wives and
his youngest son, who was remarkably attached to me, to
our toldo, to be under the charge of her father, Kai Chileno.
El Sourdo had pressed me to go with their small party, and
for some time I wavered, but thought it best to stick to Casi-
miro, and pay a visit to Cheoeque, and the much-praised
Manzanas, where the Indians anticij)ated finding plenty of
fruit and plenty of drink. After leaving Esgel the character
of the country chauged. We were no longer traversing
Pampas, with theii* dreary monotony, but journeyed through
level valleys of two or three miles in extent, watered by rivu-
lets fringed with stunted trees, and abounding with game.
The general line of the dividing hills— which were round
downs and occasionally broken and waterworn cliffs — was
from east to west, seeming as if they were thrown off as
spurs from the Cordillera, from which, however, their
western bases were divided by a valley often narrowing to a
glen, down which flowed a stream in a northward course.
Towards evening a halt was made at the side of a stream
where there was sufiicient pasture for the horses, and it was
an amusing sight to watch the long line of women winding
down the hills in the distance, like a flock of ants; the
Araucanians driving their cattle and mares separate from
our party, and their sheep bringing up the rear by slow
marches under charge of some lads.
Ch. VI.] AKAUCANIAN AND TEHUELCHE EXCAMPMENT.s. 199
Early the following morning the camp was struck, and
after crossing a hill directly above the encampment, which was
covered with rank high grass, we descended the northward
slope to a wild, barren-looking plain, at the northern side of
which, near to a low range of hills, some trees and a silver
line marked the course of a river flowing from the Cordillera,
the mountains of which rose to a height of 2,000 or 3,00(/
feet, wooded nearly to the summits, and their crests glitter-
ing with occasional patches of snow that had defied the
power of the summer sun. Traversing this plain, which was
dotted with barberry and other bushes, and varied here and
there by small hummocky ridges, we closed the hunting
circle by the banks of the stream, a few miles distant from
the Cordillera. Here, in different parties, the usual fires
were lit, and the hunting meal discussed, after which we
proceeded to the toldos. The Araucanians had pitched
theirs on the southern bank of the river, amongst some
clumps of trees ; whilst those of the Tehuelches were situated
on the northern bank, the river dividing the two villages.
Westward from our encampment the barren plain was suc-
ceeded by a wide level of grass, reaching to the base of the
mountains, some two miles distant ; but higher up the
course of the river, which trended to the north, the plain
appeared to resume its barren and stony aspect, with here
and there a dry lagoon, until the slope of the mountains was
reached, and detached belts of trees formed the commence-
ment of the forest. On the southern side of the river the
pasture was not very abundant ; nevertheless there was
sufficient for the horses, cattle, and sheep of our allies to
graze upon.
After the usual stable di-ill most of us bathed in the
stream, which, although nowhere of great depth, had pools
at intervals suited for bathing ; but the water was icy cold.
The day following our arrival at this camp, which was named
Diplaik, a birthday feast took place in the Araucanian
toldos, to which most of us were invited, the usual tent being
erected and a dance held in the evening', and the feast and
dance were kept up for two days and nights, at the end of
200 AT HOME AMTH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. YI.
wliicli a messenger arrived from Foyel to say tliat Calfi-
cura, the chief of the Indians encamped at the Salinas
north of the Eio Negro, near Bahia Blanca, was going to
make war on Buenos Ayres, the reason assigned being the
murder of one of his relations by the Christians ; he there-
fore desired the Araucanians and Tehuelches to join with
him in the inroad. His literal message was as follows :
' My horse is ready, my foot is in the stirrup, my lance is in
my hand, and I go to make war against these Christians,
who tire us out with their falseness.'
A parlemento was called, and the chiefs deliberated for
some time, but in the end determined to have nothing to do
with the affair ; so a message was sent to the effect that he
might do as he pleased, but that they wished to maintain
peace.
We remained some days in Diplaik, during which several
races were run, resulting on this occasion in favour of the
horses of the Araucanians, who won many horses and mares
from their neighbours.
The international sports were diversified by a cock fight
between Orkeke's bird and one belonging to an Araucanian.
My assistance was requested to sharpen the spurs, and my
friends were much astonished at my indignant refusal to
have anything to do with such a proceeding. The Araucanian
owner of the cock had also a hen which, during the march,
sat npon a clutch of eggs and successfully reared her brood
of six chickens, the hen, nest, and all being carefully trans-
ported on horseback, and Dame Partlet seeming quite as
much at home in the saddle as any Indian mother with her
nursling carried in the cradle behind her.
In the diy lagoons on the western side of the valley the
women and, indeed, sometimes the men, were frequently
engaged in grubbing up an edible root which grew in large
quantities. The leaf of the plant is very minute, and the
root, which is found about a foot below the surface, varies in
length from 1 to 3 inches: it is quite white, and about a quarter
of an inch in diameter ; when raw its taste resembles that of
a chestnut, but is rather sweeter. The Indians boil it and
Cn. VI.] TEIIUELCIIES FISHING. 201
drink the water, wliicli is very sweet. During tlie last two
days of our stay we subsisted entirely on this food and fisli
caught in the stream, as meat was not obtainable. Some of
the Tehuelches were here induced for the first time to taste
the fish on which Casimiro, Meiia, and myself were regaling,
and some of them took a great liking to it, and borrowing
my lines and hooks were soon sitting on the bank waitiilg
patiently for a bite. They caught several, and towards
evening returned with my lines and a share of the fish for us,
which we did not require. As I had plenty of hooks, these
ingenious savages soon made lines for themselves out of
twisted ostrich sinews, and may, for all I know, at the present
time be occupied in fishing. The fact that none of these
Tehuelches would before this touch the fish caught by me,
and even expressed great disgust at the idea, is worthy of
note, as it has been stated that on the coast they catch and
eat sea fish, which could only be alleged by persons ignorant
of their real habits of life.'
On the 12th we marched; the cause of our detention for
the two extra days being the continued sickness of Crime,
who, however, at length determined to make an effort and
proceed, although barely able to sit on his horse. The wo-
men followed, more or less, the valley of the river, whilst the
hunters ranged over the hills, which on the eastern side
were in most parts free from rock and stones and abounded
with ostriches. Duinng the journey I came suddenly on two
wild cats, one of which my dog attacked and killed, and the
other fell a victim to my bolas. These were of the species
common in the provinces of La Plata, and especially in the
islands of the Parana. Towards evening we came on another
small stream flowing into the main river, into the plain of
which we subsequently descended and found the toldos
already pitched, literally ' sub tegmine fagi.' During this
day's ride, happening to be in the same part of the circle as
the Araucanians, we cooked our dinners in company and
rode home together. On the way Quintuhual's eldest son,
with whom I had always had very friendly relations, said
> Cf. Guinnard, ' Three Years' Slavery,' p. 73.
202 AT HOilE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
that lie desired to recognise me as his brother. So we
accordingly joined hands, and riding together formally de-
clared that we were as brothers, and would always remember
the duties of our relationship and assist each other, if needs
be, in whatever part of the world we might be placed. All
this was very satisfactory, and it may be interesting to the
reader to know that my sisters and cousins were the good-
looking girls who had asked such curious questions at Esgel,
and with whom, though we could not understand each other's
language, I had always kept up a laughing acquaintance,
thereby arousing considerable jealousy in the bosoms of my
Tehuelche friends. The gloriously warm weather which, for
a wonder, continued during our stay at Lilly-haik, as this
station was named, rendered our residence there m.ost enjoy-
able, and we revelled in the simple pleasures of the woods ;
sometimes three or foiu* of us would go away across the brook,
and traversing a plain occupied by the horses and cattle,
search for strawberries amongst the ravines of the neigh-
bouring mountains, or climb the tall trees and gather
the yellow insipid fungus adhering to the branches, or lie
down amongst the wild violets and enjoy the clolce far niente.
These Indian children of nature showed themselves as
thoroughly able to appreciate the idleness of gathering fruit
and flowers and roaming in the woods as school children on
a holiday ramble. On one occasion Casimiro and several
others proceeded in search of wood wherewith to construct
saddles, and we felled several fine trees, selecting and cutting
off suitable pieces of timber. It was hard work with blunt
axes, but Indians are indefatigable when they once com-
mence a task. After my spell at the axe I wandered off with
a companion into the thicker forest in search of fungus to
make tinder. Of this we found little, but thirst soon made us
seek for water, and discover a delicious ice-cold rivulet, em-
bowered with currant bushes bearing ripe fruit. Here we
remained a short time smoking and picking currants, recum-
bent on the mossy turf, till a shout in the distance warned us
that our companions were returning. On our way home we
killed one of the flat toad-like lizards which the Indians resrard
Ch. yi.] tame skunks. 203
as devilish ; we also caught a young skunk, which Casimiro
wished to keep as a pet for the children, but at my instance
let it go and enjoy the delights of freedom. ' Fancy a tame
skunk ! ' some may exclaim ; but in Hinchel's toldo there were
two skunks which, perfectly tame and as playful as kittens,
ran about everywhere, never using their oft'ensive powers, and
sometimes getting lost for an hour or two caused a dreadful
outcry to be raised by the children until they were found.
The hill slopes were a garden of calceolarias, alyssum, tiny
wild geraniums, and other flowers unknown to me. Amongst
them were two magnificent creepers, one resembling a vine,
with rich violet trumpet-shaped flowers, and another dis-
playing gorgeous circular orange blossoms, with black lines
radiating, like the spokes of a wheel, from the centre. I
looked in vain for seeds, but there were none mature, so
contented myself with plucking a flower, which was subse-
quently lost with other specimens.
A disagreeable incident here gave me an opportunity of
observing the disposition of the Araucanians to enslave and
illtreat any unhappy ' Cristiano ' that they can either kidnap
or purchase. One of the Chilians, after more than once
removing from one Tehuelche toldo to another, listened to
the delusive promises of an Araucanian and deserted his old
protectors rather than masters. He soon found that he had
exchanged an easy berth for real slavery. One day he
besought me to interfere to protect him from the cruelty of
his master, who was urging him with his whip to continue
his labour of wood felling. He comi^lained that he was
worked all day, and scantily fed, and obliged to sleep outside
the toldo ; very different from his life amongst the Pata-
gonians, when food, shelter, and a horse to ride were
always his lot. At my intercession Quintuhual took him
into his service to protect him, for no Tehuelche would re-
ceive him : but he was afterwards reported to have been killed
by his quondam master, as a punishment for his desertion.
During our stay great gambling with cards was carried on
amongst some of the party ; and Casimiro and Hinchel
worked most assiduously constructing saddles, which when
204 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. VI.
finislied they were in as great haste to gamble away. A
wedding also varied the proceedings in this place ; and
another little incident, in the shape of a separation by mutual
consent of an Arancanian husband and Tehuelche wife, gave
the old ladies subject for gossip ; but a reconciliation was
soon after effected.
On the 16th of February we left Lilly -haik, and bid
adieu to the pleasant river and the sylvan delights of this
Paradise, as it seemed to us, with its flowery shades. As we
ascended the northern declivity of the high ground bounding
the valley, I halted to take a farewell look; and nowhere
has a more beautiful scene presented itself to my gaze. The
valley narrowed as it curved to the west, and at its head,
through a gigantic cleft, the perpendicular walls of which
rose several hundred feet, the waters of the river issued from
tlieir mountain cradle. So deep was the gloom of this gorge,
that it was impenetrable to even Indian eyes, and the river
seemed to flow into the sunlight out of unknown darkness.
Above, on either hand, the precipitous cliffs sloped upwards
into high mountains clothed with a rich mantle of the dark
green, cedarlike foliage of the beech forests ; and between
their summits might be discerned the dazzling peaks of far
distant loftier mountains crowned with perpetual snow.
Turning our backs upon this lovely scene, we crossed a
remarkable succession of barren and stony terraces or
benches of curiously irregular formation, the terraces run-
ning in different directions, and presenting no parallel lines
to indicate an}^ uniform action of water ; the regular slopes
and level surfaces resembling a complication of gigantic
steps. We at length descended to a plain bordering a river,
which all the Indians agreed in declaring to be the main
branch of the Chupat. The banks on the southern side were
remarkable for being fringed with a species of Pampa grass,
while on the northern side grew a few trees, near which the
toldos were pitched.
The river was about forty yards in width, and easily
fordable in most places, although there were deep reaches
where a horse had to swim. The foremost party of the
Ch. VI.] THE CHUPAT KIVER. 205
hunters crossed first, and some, either not knowing or care-
less of the fords, enjoyed a bathe, swimming alongside their
horses. By eventide all our party, women and baggage, had
arrived. A few days' halt was occasioned in this place,
named Chupatcush, by the continued illness of the cacique
Crime. We hunted in all the surrounding country, which
l)resented no very remarkable featui-es. Down river, or io
speak more correctly to the eastward, after passing a range
of hills of the usual description, covered with short tufty
grass, interspersed with shrubs, through which the river
forces its way in a succession of narrow gorges, a large plain
opened out, which extended for perhaps nine miles on each
side, scantily covered with grass, excepting towards the
banks of the river, where the pasture was luxuriant*
A subsequent comparison of the observations made by
Welsh settlers as to its lower course with my own, aided by
Indian accounts, enables me to state that the Chupat river
is characterised throughout its course by the narrow gorg'e-
like cuttings alternating with similar wide plains, all of which
are suitable for cultivation. Besides the Sengel, which is
doubtless one of its main feeders, other streams occurring in our
journey had also been described as tributaries of the Chupat,
and by their direction of course it would appear that their
waters, if they reach the sea, must flow into this river ; but
it seems to me difficult to understand how, if the ChujDat
receives the drainage of so large an area of country, its
stream near the mouth, as described both by Indians and
settlers, can be of such small dimensions. It is, therefore,
probable that some, if not most, of the lesser rivers lose
themselve:j in lagoons or swamjDS iu the central districts, and
the reader must be pleased to remember that the courses of
these rivers, as indicated on the map, are not in all cases
laid down from my own observation, but partly from Indian
description and partly from an already existing map, j)robably
compiled from similar data.
To the westward plains occur at intervals apparently until
the river debouches from the ravines of the high mountains
of the Andes, about twelve miles from the eucami^meut. At
206 AT HOlilE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
this point tlie stream flows from tlie northward, and the
Indians informed me has its source in a large lake, most
probably Nahuel-huapi. The pasture in the immediate
vicinity of the camp was scanty, having apparently been
recently burned, but the soil was of a rich alluvial description.
In the chase the most remarkable thing observed was the
abundance of armadillos, one hunter frequently bringing in
two or three. Fish also were abundant in the river, and
averaged a larger size than those previously caught.
On February 18th smoke was observed to the northward, not
far distant, and towards evening a chasqui arrived, bringing
with him a couple of bottles of liquor for Quintuhual, as well as
news that things were going on well amongst Foyel's people ;
and on the 21st we again marched over a high plateau broken
by numerous irregular ravines which appeared to have been
swept by an inundation. High isolated cliffs stood up as
though the waters had washed round them and swept away
the intervening soil, leaving their waterworn faces marked
with the indelible record of the floods, as plainly as the torn
and blasted rocks in the southern districts bore the traces of
volcanic fires. At last a more unbroken plain terminated
suddenly in a shelving descent of 300 to 400 feet, the wall of
a chasm covered with grass and shrubs interspersed with
scattered boulders, down which we made our way, encamping
near the base, where a beautiful spring gushed from the side.
The bottom of the canon, which was nearly half a mile in
width, contained a watercourse, the bed of which was dry at
this season, except a few pools of stagnant water unsuitable
for drinking.
It was intended to despatch messengers from this place,
which was called Cushamon, to Foyel, and also Cheoeque,
the chief of Las Manzanas, warning him of our near approach ;
and accordingly, after our arrival in camp, I wrote a letter to
the said chieftain at the dictation of Casimiro, which in well-
rounded periods and with much complimentary verbiage
explained the fact and reasons of our having united all the
Indians and inviting their co-operation.
The following morning, after the letter had been read and
Ch. VI.] LOSING HORSES. 207
explained to the assembled Caciques, the two messengers
(sons of Caciques) appeared with two horses each, and after
receiving some verbal injunctions, started on their journey,
amidst the bowlings of a few old women and a blast from the
cornet. The remainder of us, who had mounted, to add to
the pomp and ceremony of the occasion, went out hunting,
some following the ravine in an easterly direction, which,
penetrating high pampas, opened into a plain containing a
lagoon fed by the waters of the brook, whilst others encircled
the high pampas above. Hinchel, whom I accompanied on
this occasion, pointed out to me several small holes with little
mounds of earth and rubbish at the mouth, which he asserted
to be the abodes of snakes, but no occupants were visible
outside. He described the snakes as dark in colour, about
2 feet 6 inches long, and perfectly harmless, adding that they
would be good to eat, which facts were subsequently corro-
borated by Casimiro.
One of the troubles of pampa life is occasionally losing
one's horses, as was my case in this place, and I spent one
entire day in search before T recovered them, as they had
strayed in company with a troop of mares far up the valley,
which here divided into two branches, opening into watered
grassy plains extending to the Cordillera. As there were
horse tracks up both valleys, according to the usual law of
contrariety I took the wrong one at first and had a long-
gallop for nothing. At any time it is troublesome to have to
look through about two thousand horses all unmarked and
many of the same colour, and perhaps resembling those be-
longing to the perplexed searcher. An Indian, however, with
his natural quickness of sight, will distinguish his own horses
at a great distance amongst a hundred others. It has been
already said that in this roving life all must look after their
own horses, for Indians do not understand another person
doing it for them, unless he be a son or relation, and in all
cases when preparing for the march everyone is expected to
find and bring up his own.
During our stay (until the 28th) in this encampment, the
cold winds again set in, and snow fell on one occasion, but not
"208 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
in great quantity, and we were all very glad at length to get
the order to marcli, and proceeded in joyous expectation of
shortly meeting the chasquis with news from the other Indians.
By this time the young guanaco had grown to considerable
size and afforded a lengthened chase, but their skins were
useless for mantles, the fur having acquired more of the thick
woolly nature of that of the full-grown animal. The next
halt was made in a place called Telck, a valley of consider-
able width, on one edge of which the burrow of a Patagonian
hare or cavy was pointed out to me, but the owner was not
visible* Here a messenger arrived with an answer to our
letter from Foyel, indited by a Valdivian Indian named
Antonio Guaitu, educated by the missionaries, who filled the
post of secretary to the chief. The Caciques having formed
a circle, in which my place was next the president, Casimiro^
the chasquis were introduced and ceremoniously handed me
the letter, written in most peculiar Spanish, which, after
some private study, I was able to decipher and expound to
the attentive assembly. It contained many expressions of
good will and hopes of a speedy meeting, winding up with
an apology that, owing to having left his country north of
the Rio Limay and come down into these parts in order to
hunt the young guanaco, he regretted having so few warriors
in his train wherewith to welcome ' the great chief of the
southj' viz., Casimiro. After this function, with my deport-
ment in which, be it modestly said, all the chiefs were much
pleased, as well as gratified by the amicable contents of the
despatch, one of the Araucanian caciques assuring me with
many compliments that his horses were always at my disposal
for a mount, all adjourned to a shooting match, or rather
pistol practice, at which the performances were decidedly
moderate, and the mark seemed to be the safest place.
Starting thence on March 3, and travelling always north-
wards over the barren upper pampas with scarcely a shrub
on them, the wall-like Cordillera rising on the west, and
ranges of hills bounding the view to the east, about 2 p.m.
we arrived at a marshy plain : there, as we were halting to
make a fire, a cloud of smoke rose suddenly from the opposite
Ch. yi.] tehuelche encampment. 209
side, indicating tlie near approach of the chasqni sent to
Las Manzanas. Half a dozen of us were immediately de-
spatched to verify the supposition, and, leaving our dinner
for a future occasion, raced across the valley at full speed,
the Indians firmly believing that the messengers would bring
liquor with them, and every one being ambitious of the first
drink. We at length made them out, and perceiving us in
return they halted and dismounted by a small hillock, where
we shortly joined them, Casimiro following sedately, as be-
came so grand a personage. The Indians were disappointed
as to the advent of liquor, the messengers having brought
nothing with them except a few aj)ples, some of which,
distributed to us, proved to be very juicy and refreshing,
equalling any European apple. The only answer to our
letter was a verbal message to the effect that we should be
welcome at Las ]Manzanas, and that Cheoeque would collect
a force to meet us, all his people being at present busy in
the mountains gathering the harvest of apples and pihones ;
he also stated that he had received late news from Patagones,
one Mariano Linares, brother of the head chief of the tame
Indians in that settlement, being at present a visitor at Las
Manzanas. Casimiro was rather irritated at not receiving a
written answer, but on my pointing out that it was just
possible Cheoeque did not own a secretary in his suite, the
chief was somewhat pacified, although his dignity was rather
hurt, and he recurred again and again to the subject.
On our way to the toldos, which, during the interval of our
hearing the news, roasting apples, &c., had been pitched,
Casimiro pointed oat to me the scene of a former fight in
which a chief and several Indians had been killed. It was a
very desirable place for encamjDment, but, owing to these
antecedents, was carefully avoided, and instead of it our
party occupied a damp and even sloppy site on the borders of
a small stream that lost itself in a large marsh farther to
the east, while the Araucanians had selected a better spot a
little higher up the valley. The following day we hunted
over some hills in the vicinity of the mountains and killed ^
. p
210 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. YI.
great quantity of ostriclies, scarcely a man coming home
without a good supply of meat.
On March 5, early in the morniiig, whilst most of us were
rounding up our horses, others smoking at the fireside, some
men appeared in the distance with several horses, one of
which appeared to be loaded. In a moment many Indians
were away to meet the newcomers, and one came back at
speed to inform us that they were Manzanero Indians bring-
ing liquor to trade with. They proceeded to Quintuhual's
toldo, one of them being a connection of the chief, and there
dismounted, unloading their horse of two sheepskins filled with
rum. Great was the rejoicing amongst the Indians, and
large the crowd that soon collected round Quintuhual's toldo,
carefully keeping at a respectful distance. Casimiro and
myself were shortly sent for, and on riding over were invited
to preside at the commencement of the festival. On our dis-
mounting, in company with several of the other caciques, four
lances were planted in the ground (one having a white weft
or poncho placed on it), and the chiefs, each taking a horn or
pannikin containing a very little rum, marched round the
lances muttering an incantation and sprinkling a little liquor
on the ground, also on the lances as they passed. This
ceremony was repeated twice, a select body of old women
attending to sing and cry, to assist in frightening away the
evil spirit. After this my brother, who appeared to be master
of the ceremonies, handed pannikins of grog round, and all
were soon very convivial. After taking a glass or two I
retired in company with Orkeke and Hinchel, neither of
whom was inclined to drink much, owing to the possibility
of a disturbance. The rest of the party then began to buy
drink, as the first free allowance was stopped, and in a short
time many were in an advanced stage of intoxication, amongst
whom was our head chief. The terms of barter were a
mantle or unbroken colt for two bottles of villainous Val-
divian mm, which was, as the Tehuelches agreed, a very
exorbitant price ; but inasmuch as the dealers left it free
for them either to go without or pay up, the liquor was soon
finished and the merchants possessed of some eighteen new
Ch. yi.] casimiko intoxicated. 211
mantles and a good number of mares and colts. , The artful
Teliuelches, however, during the ensuing night, stole back a
portion of the mantles and humbugged the Araucanians
about the horses, professing not to be able to catch them.
Everything went on quietly until about 3 p.m., when a fight
took place, but the combatants were disarmed. From this
up to 8 P.M. Quintuhual, Orkeke, and many of the people
who had kejDt sober, were occupied in quelling disturbances,
Casimiro being as bad as any, and sending for his gun where-
with to shoot some imagined enemy, which I fortunately
intercepted, and after plngging up the nipples hid it behind
the toldo. There was little sleep to be obtained till nearly
morning, when the inebriated ones laid down anywhere and
everywhere to sleep oft' their potations. The following
morning Casimiro awoke with a bad headache and bad
temper, and commenced talking about something that had
been said to him the previous day, on which I informed him
that he must have no shame left in him to get so intoxicated,
and that no Indians could respect a chief who was the first
to set an evil example by wishing to create a disturbance,
while Quintuhual had remained sober, taking care of his
people as became a chief, and that he (Casimiro) should have
done the same. This raised the ire of the ancient monarch,
who answered in a most impolite manner, so much so, that
to avoid a row I left him to his bad head and quitted the
toldo till he should be in a better frame of mind. Shortly
after this little episode we broke up the camp and marched
a few miles to the north. Having been detained by a
missing horse, I did not start with the hunting party, but
overtook the people who had arrived with the grog, returning
with their remaining mantles, horses, colts, &c., and loudly
abusing the Tehuelches for a set of thieving rascals. One
of this party was a Valdivian boy who spoke fluent Spanish,
and invited me to accompany him to Los Llanos, whither he
now intended returning. He stated that in seven or eight
days he hoped to reach his destination, and that from thence
to the port of Valdivia was but a day and a half's journey.
On arriving at the next encampment I bade adieu to these
p 2
212 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VI.
people, who continued their march farther to the north, not
liking to trust their property again in the neighbourhood of
our camp.
Only halting for the night, we resumed our journey shortly
after daylight, mounting a rather steep ascent to a high
plateau strewn with sharp stones and crossed by ridges of
rocks at intervals.
Ostriches and guanaco were numerous, and although
chasing them almost involved the certainty of laming one's
horse, many were killed. In this hunt a male guanaco came
racing towards me from the Indians on the western side of
the circle, and on my galloping to intercept him, he turned
and descended a ridge of rocks. I was about to throw the
bolas, being within distance, when he suddenly tripped and,
falling on his head, lay stunned at the bottom of the cliff,
where I soon despatched him with my knife.
These barren pampas terminated suddenly in a line of cliffs,
gradually but steeply shelving in some places, and in others
presenting a perpendicular descent of 200 feet ; at the base
lay a large plain watered by a brook, and enclosed on the
southern, eastern, and partially on the western sides by these
cliffs, while the northern and north-western boundary was
formed by hills rising in gentle slopes. In about the centre
of this plain, close to the brook side, were to be distinguished
the toldos of Foyel, to which the women were wending their
way, having descended by a ravine to the east, while some
distance to the north-east on the upper plains were to be dis-
tinguished the hunting fires of the proprietors of the toldos.
In due course of time we arrived, but as the hunting party
did not return till late, we saw nothing of Foy el's people that
evening, though letters were exchanged between the chiefs,
felicitating each other on the meeting, and appointing next
day for the ceremony of welcome.
The following morning, however, day broke with a furious
south-west gale, with passing squalls of snow and sleet, and
so bitterly cold and miserable that Foyel sent a note to state
that, 'as the day was rather frozen,' perhaps it would be
better to postpone the ceremony till finer weather, inasmuch
Ch. VI.] INTERVIEW BETWEEN CASIMIEO AND FOYEL. 213
as after it a parlemento would have to be held to consider
matters in general. Casimiro answered, through me, that
he was of the same opinion, but would do himself the honour
of paying a personal visit. Presently we sallied out in the
storm, taking the presents and the necessary number of
women to cry, and proceeded to Foyel's toldo, where we
handed over the gifts, the women melodiously howling during
the operation. A short parley then ensued between the two
caciques, neither of whom, be it remembered, could under-
stand the language of the other. After this ceremonial was
concluded, which took place outside the toldo during a blind-
ing snow storm, we returned to our home, and shortly after
the day cleared up a little, and Foyel's people were visible
bringing up cattle and sheep from distant parts of the valley
to which they had been driven to seek shelter from the
storm. Some headed in our direction, and were driven close
to the toldo, over which the Buenos Ayrean colours proudly
waved to designate the dwelling of the chief. Foyel then
arrived and had an interview with Casimiro, presenting him
with cattle which were lazoed by some of the Valdivian
Indians, and a light-haired inan dressed in Christian clothes,
but with rather a wild appearance. My first idea was that
he was either Scotch or English, but as he approached me
whilst despatching one of the cows, I asked him in Spanish
where he came from, and whether he was not English ; he
answered that he was from Chili, but had lived nearly all his
life in Valdivia working cattle, and had for the last two years
been in company with the Valdivians catching cattle in the
Cordillera, and making his head-quarters at Foyel's camp.
His name was Ventura Delgado, and he had visited Patagones
the previous year in company with the secretary, Antonio
Guaitu, who took an application for rations for Foyel. As
we were both busy we arranged to meet and have a talk
later in the day. A good deal of eating took place in the
forenoon, and to escape the crowd, and also the persecution
of having continually to write some nonsensical message
from Casimiro to Foyel, who about every half hour used to
interchange written messages, although the toldos were not
214 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. [Ch. YI.
above two liundred yards apart, I quitted the chief's quarters
for a stroll. While roaming about the camp looking- for the
toldo in which my new Valdivian acquaintance put up, I was
called into another, where Casimiro's aunt, one of our
domestic circle, and my ' companion of the pipe,' was sitting
by the fire drinking grog, in which she invited me to assist
her ; nothing loth, I sat down and we had two or three
cheerers together, after which the owner of the toldo, a
bi'other- in-law of Foyel's, a Pampa Indian, arrived. He spoke
fluent Spanish, having formerly been for a considerable time
near the settlements, and was an intellectual, tine-looking
man ; he was very civil and escorted me to Foyel's toldo,
where I spent the afternoon in company with Antonio Guaitu
and Ventura Delgado, the Valdivian.
On March 8, the day being fine and suitable for the cere-
mony of welcome, Casimiro gave orders at an early hour for
all to mount and hold themselves in readiness to go through
the necessary evolutions. About an hour after the orders
had been given, most of the Patagonians were mounted and
ready, so all proceeded to the part of the valley where the
united Araucanian Indians, under Quintuhual and Foyel,
were already formed in line, lances in hand, waiting for our
motley crowd, who gave considerable trouble to the chiefs,
owing to their loose ideas of formation : the caciques and,
adjutant no sooner had got one part of the line into some-
thing like order, than the peo^jle at the other extremity
would break up into knots and converse or smoke. Foyel
sent several messages to Casimiro to keep his line properly
formed, and at length the Tehuelches were arrayed in some-
thing like order and the ceremony commenced. After it was
concluded a great Parlemento was held, which lasted until
the afternoon ; all the previous resolutions were confirmed,
viz., that Casimiro should be recognised the chief of the
South, his jurisdiction extending over all Indians south of
the Kio Limay ; that with his people he should guarantee
the safety of Patagones, and hold in check the Pampa Indians
of Las Salinas, under the chief Calficura, in the improbable
event of his endeavouring to cross the Eio Limay for the
Ch. YI.] GRKAT tarlemento. 215
purpose of making raids into the settlements ; 2ndly, that we
should, all united, march to Las Manzanas to visit Cheoeque,
and propose to him to guarantee with his forces the safety of
the north bank of the river, which would efFectually bridle
Calficura and secure Patagones. After the Parlemento I
proceeded to visit Foyel, and was received by him with every
expression of friendship and regard. During the course of
our interview he asked me to show him my compass, the
fame of which had gone before it. I at once took it off my
neck, where I was in the habit of carrying it, and endeavoured
to explain its uses to him. Unlike the other Indians, al-
though at first regarding it rather with superstitious awe,
Foyel soon understood its uses, though he also hinted that it
might not only be useful for finding the way at night, but
perhaps would bring luck at play as well. I accordingly
begged him to accept it, which, after a little demur, he did
with evident delight, wrapping it carefully u]d and giving
it in charge of his daughter.
He then commenced a conversation on the subject of
Indians and their relations with white people. He stated
that he was in favour of friendly intercourse both with the
Yaldivian people on the western side and the Argentines on
the eastern shores. I quote some of his exact words : ' God
has given to us these plains and hills wherein to dwell ; he
has provided us with the guanaco, from the skins of which
to form our toldos, and from the young of which we make
mantles to clothe ourselves with ; also the ostrich and
armadillo for food. Our contact with the Christians of late
years has given us a taste for yerba, sugar, biscuit, flour, and
other luxuries formerly unknown, but which now have be-
come almost necessary to us. If we have war with the
Spaniards, we shall have no market for our skins, ponchos,
feathers, &c., therefore it is for our own interests to be on
good terms with them ; besides, there is plenty of room for
all.' He then went on to state that he was endeavouring to
find a route to Valdivia, avoiding Las Manzanas and the
Picunche tribe of Indians, who are against all foreigners ;
and that if possible he would get families of Valdivian Indians
216 AT HOME AYITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cu. VI.
and endeavour to cultivate some of the valleys in tlie neigli-
bourhood of the Eio Limay.
I was not at that time aware of Mr. Cox's descent from
Lake Nahuel-hnapi, or could at once have informed him of
that means of communication with the settlements on the
western side ; still I doubt the practicabilit}'^ of that route
for women and children carrying with them household goods
and agricultural implements. After some more conversation,
and receiving a general invitation to visit his toldo whenever
I felt inclined, and a hospitable assurance that there would
always be food for me if I was hungry, I retired to Casimiro's,
whilst Foyel went away to play cards, taking with him my
compass for luck, and curiously enough he won several horses,
silver stirrups, and other valuables from the Tehuelches.
The following day a race took place, the Tehuelches first
taking their horse up to the top of a neighbouring hill,
where the doctor performed some magical ceremony to ensure
his winning, which he did, though apparently inferior to his
competitor. In this plain, called by the Indians Gatchen-
kaik or Eocky Hills, Crime's illness caused us to remain
encamped until March 21, during the greater part of which
time I and several others were suffering from neuralgia and
ulcerations in the mouth, caused, I think, by the bad water
we had to drink, perhaps also by the want of salt, which had
become a very scarce commodity.
Friendly rivalry was kept up between the tribes in play,
hunting, and other sports, in which fortune varied from one
side to the other. Every other day I visited poor Crime,
whose groans might be heard at night accompanied by the
chaunt of some old hag. The sick man always asked me
how long he would live. I at first tried to persuade him
that he would get well, but after a time, as he was really
fast sinking, gave him to understand that he might live a
month if he was lucky. I offered to open his leg and
endeavour to cure him, but this he would not allow, stating
that if he died under the operation it would go hard with
the doctor, which was indeed true, so I gave up my intentions
of performing a surgical operation.
Ch. VI.] GEYLUM. 217
Before we broke uj) the camp a Valdivian and other
Indians arrived from Cheoeque's, but brought little news,
stating that the Manzaneros were still dispersed amongst
the valleys of the Cordillera engaged in gathering the yearly
harvest of apples and piiiones : of these we had already re-
ceived plenty from Foyel's people, who kept up a constant
communication with their relations near the Eio Limay.
On the 21st all left the valley and travelled a few leagues
through a diversified country. On the line of march cliffs,
which stood out in the glens in irregular, picturesque manner,
were of yellow and red sandstone, but to the westwards black
basaltic heights could be seen abutting on the plains, while
in hunting over the higher ground masses of ironstone and
igneous rock were met with scattered over the surface. We
remained for the night in a valley called Changi, and, pro-
ceeding next day, arrived about noon at a large plain shut
in by sandstone' cliffs on the eastern side, at the northern
side of which towered a peculiar pointed rock, perhaps
300 feet in height, standing out alone on the sloping descent;
viewed from the western side it appeared like a natural
column composed of stratified yellow and red and black
layers of sand, and on the summit a condor had his eyry.
The plain extended for several miles to the west, where it
was again closed in by cliffs, differing from those to the
eastward in being composed of basalt. In this plain, called
Geylum, situated, according to Indian accounts, a few
leagues to the eastward of Lake Nahuel-huapi, and distant
sixty miles from the Rio Limay, and seventy-five miles from
Las Manzanas, it was determined to spend the time re-
quired for sending chasquis to give notice of our near ap-
proach, prior to all marching in company for Cheoeque's
head-quarters.
218 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cu. VII.
CHAPTEE VII.
LAS MANZANAS.
Catching a Thief. — Miss Foj'el. — Start for Las Manzanas. — First View of
the Apple Groves. — Omens of War. — Inacajal's Tolderia. — Crossing the
Rio Limay. — Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. — Lenketrou's Raid. — A Night of
Alarm. — BraTcry of my Cousins. — The Great Cheoeque. — A Mounted
Parlemento. — Apples and Piuones. — Graviel's Madness. — Las Manzanas.
— Cheoeque's Palace. — The Revels. — Feuds between the Chiefs. — The
Picunches and the Passes to Valdivia. — Trading and Politics. — Resolu-
tions of Peace. — A Grand Banquet. — Power of Cheoeque. — Araucaniau
Customs. — Farewell Presents. — Invitation to Return. — Orkeke's Gene-
rosity.— Return to Geylum. — Outbreak of an Epidemic. — My Pretty
Page. — Departure from GJ«ylum.
The day after our arrival at Geylum, Manzaneros or Arau-
canians arrived from the north with cider of their own
manufacture stored in sheepskins, apples, and pinones, to
trade ; and a scene of debauchery ensued, as usual. At
night an attempt, nearly successful, was made to rob our
toldo : one of the women, however, was awake, and heard
the thief endeavouring to get into the back of the sleeping
places where some newly-finished mantles were stored ; she
gave the alarm to two of the men, and they endeavoured to
catch the would-be intruder, who, hearing the alarm raised,
started off at speed, not without receiving a cut from a knife
which marked him deeply on his shoulder ; and, what was
worse, being recognised as he ran off.
Foyel invited me to drink at his expense, but I merely stayed
in his toldo long enough for the observance of etiquette ;
then retired to keep Hinchel, who would not drink, company
by his fireside. Whilst chatting together he related how,
Cii. VIL] MISS FOYEL. 219
many years ago, this place had been the scene of a ^I'eat
battle between the Tehuelches and Manzaneros, in which he,
though only a boy, was struck down by a bola perdida and
wounded with a lance whilst on the ground ; the battle re-
sulting in a victory to the Tehuelches.
The day following the drink, meat being scarce, I dined
in Foyel's toldo off a little cornmeal and a dessert of apples
and piiiones, of which the honours were done by his daughter,
a pretty girl of eighteen, with long black silky hair, which it
was the special duty of her handmaid — a captive Tehuelche
girl — to dress daily. This young lady never condescended
to any menial labour, though she occasionally busied her
delicate fingers with the needle ; her dowry of about eighty
mares and the influence of her father made her of course a
most desirable match ; but she, up to the time of my de-
parture, had exercised the privilege of an heiress and refused
all offers. This ■ evening she was in great trouble, having
lost a new mantle and some other valuables, stolen no doubt
by the Tehuelches. I promised to set inquiries on foot
through Casimiro, which resulted in the stolen property being
given up, and the thief proved to be the same individual who
had endeavoured to rob our toldo.
Shortly after this two messengers were despatched to
Cheoeque, who returned on March 25 with intelligence that
the said chief would be ready to receive us on April 2, and
• that we were to bring our arms,' which latter message was
rather ambiguous. I had been given the option of taking our
chief's message to Cheoeque, but owing to one of my horses
being lame, and for other reasons, preferred going with the
mass later on. Meha, the Chilian, was therefore honoured
with the despatches in my place, as he alone was competent
to read the Spanish letters written by myself as secretary,
and he returned with glowing accounts of the civility shown
him at Las Manzanas, and the generally civilised appearance
of those Indians. We passed several very hungry and dis-
agreeable days in Geylum previous to starting; there was
little game in the surrounding country, and the weather was
cold and wet, with occasional snow. For two whole days
220 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
Casimiro, Mena, and myself, wlio were usually messmates,
liad nothing to eat but an armadillo and a few fish which I
caught in a pool of the stream. Near the Column Rock,
whilst hunting, we discovered a * cache,' belonging to Foyel's
Indians, which contained something wrapped and lashed up
in hides : although the temptation was great to overhaul its
contents, the package was left unopened, and a quiet warn-
ing conveyed to Foyel that others were not likely to be so
scrupulous. This confirmed what Casimiro had said as to
these Indians j)i'Ovidently leaving bags of fat and provisions
in various places to which they expected to return at no very
distant period.
On the day fixed in the council, held subsequent to the
return of the chasquis, we all started, fully equipped, on our
journey to Las Manzanas, mustering 250 men of the united
Indians, without toldos or baggage, and in light marching
order with a few spare horses. A few horses were loaded
with coverings for toldos, mantles, &c., which the women
hoped to sell to advantage to the Araucanians, and a few of
the women accompanied the expedition to conduct their
barter, while a guard of perhaps forty men remained behind
to provide food for the women and children who were to
await our return.
We crossed the gradually sloping irregular plains covered
with stunted bushes, but scarcely deserving the name of high
pampas, which bordered the northern side of the valley of
Geylum, and after passing between two parallel walls of
rocks, forming a sort of natural street, we emerged into a
succession of grassy plains, separated by baTren rocky hills
covered with scrub, on attaining the summits of which the
wooded Cordillera on the western side rose into view some
few leagues distant. About 11 a.m., after we had been some
four hours on our march, we met two men, bringing with
them a pack horse with a couple of skins of grog for Foyel's
people. They were soon surrounded by Tehuelches, who
proposed to drink there and then, and were much inclined to
help themselves ; but a messenger from Foyel's people in the
rear arriving, they were permitted to pass unmolested on
Ch. VII.] START FOR LAS MANZANAS. 221
tlieir way to Gejlum, and we proceeded on our journey and
formed a circle to hunt. The country became more im-
practicable for riding as we left the lower plains and mounted
some hills broken by deep gorges and bristling in every part
with rocks sparkling with unusually large plates of mica.,
which glistened like glass in the sunshine ; these hills were
terminated by steep clitfs, over which the ostriches were
driven, a party having previously descended to look out for
them below. It was a curious sight to see the ostriches
dropping down heights varying from 10 to 50 feet, often
two or three together, with outspread wings. They appeared
generally to be stunned for a minute or two on reaching the
bottom, and by the time they were on their legs found them-
selves hampered by a ball from the unerring hand of some
stalwart Tehuelche, and running a yard or two fell with
broken legs.
Descending from these cliffs we mounted a range of hills
more than 2,000 feet high, by means nf a tolerablj^ practicable
track for travelling, and on arriving at the summit halted
for the remainder of the cavalcade. From this point a most
magnificent view presented itself; right below us, looking
quite close, but really some thirty miles distant, lay a dark
line as of a deep cutting, marking the valley of the Rio
Limay, which on the west side was terminated by high
wooded mountains with steep precipitous sides. Away to
the N.W. was a very high snowclad mountain, on which the
rays of the setting sun were shedding a rose-coloured light.
Between this and the line of the river rose wooded rang^es of
hills, the real apple groves we had heard so much about ;
below these again was a low peaked eminence, at the foot of
which, invisible to our eyes, lay our destination, viz., the
toldos of Cheoeque. For weeks Las Manzanas and Cheoeque
had been almost the sole topic of conversation, and the general
excitement, which had been intense at starting, now cul-
minated at the sight of our distant bourne. As we halted
the Indians all raised their hands to their foreheads, saluting
the distant river, and inviting the Spirit of the locality to be
propitious to our undertaking, as to the issue of which there
222 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. Til.
was great uncertainty. The niglit before Casimiro had
pointed out the redness of the setting sun, and declared it
to be an omen of war ; but without paying attention to the
omen, which indeed was not perceptible to my eyes, the un-
precedented visit of 250 Tehuelches ostensibly for peace
might very possibly be otherwise understood by Cheoeque :
indeed, it afterwards appeared that he, in reality, was by
no means assured of our pacific intentions.
When all were collected and prepared to descend the
mountain, it transpired that Casimiro, who had been missing
since the hunt commenced, had, in company with several
other Tehuelches and Foyel's Indians, returned to drink.
This was very annoying, and all present united in abusing
him for setting such an example when about to enter a part
of the country whither we were going on sufferance, amongst
a not remarkably friendly-disposed set of people. We halted
after nightfall in a valley at the side of a small rapid stream,
the banks of which, for a short distance, were covered with
high tussocks of broad-leaved pampa grass, amidst the shelter
of which we bivouacked, although the night was cold and
frosty. Firewood was plentiful, supplied by drift wood brought
down by winter or spring floods, so with blazing fires and
under the lee of the pampa grass we slept warmly enough.
It was necessar}^, however, to keep a sharp look out on the
horses, as pasturage was scanty. Before daylight, after a
slight consultation, Guenalto was given chief command,
and we again started ; after following a winding valley for a
short distance and scrambling up a steep slope, we continued
to ascend a hill of considerable height and attained a more
open country, the western side of which was bounded by the
Cordillera. In one of the valleys bordering the mountains
we came suddenly upon the Yaldivians, driving their cattle
en route to return to their own country, Cheoeque having
sent orders to the Picunches occupjdng the country near,
the only known passes through the Cordillera, to allow them
to traverse their district unmolested ; notwithstanding this
precaution, they were by no means certain that the Picunches
would not ease them of the trouble of taking care of their
S«' III 1 'liii''*'V|l'l,?
Ch. VII.] CROSSING THE RIO LIMAY. 223
animals on their arrival in the neighbourhood of the passes.
Clearing this open country we again ascended a slight rise, at
the top of which grew a single apple tree in solitary majesty,
but it had been stripped long since of its fruit. Descending
this one-tree ridge we entered a canon, and after half an
hour's ride a sudden turn brought the valley of the Rio
Limay into view immediately below. Having passed through'
the caiion, we halted on a slight eminence immediately
underneath the barranca bordering the southern side of
the valley of the river. From this cliff to the river bank,
varying from about a mile to half a mile in width, extended
a grassy plain cut up here and there by streams, and wooded
at intervals. About a league to the west the barranca
blended with the declivities of high precipitous mountains,
and the river appeared to force its way from the south be-
tween steep precipices before trending into the valley. On
the northern side the valley, though dotted here and there
with clumps of trees, was more open, and the distance to the
barranca greater than that on the southern side. Imme-
diately opposite our post was situated the tolderia of some of
Inacayal's Indians, and grazing on the surrounding pastures
cattle, sheep, and numerous horses were visible. The river
appeared to be of very considerable width, but very rapid
through the whole course of this open valley. A mile west
of the opening of the caiion three small islands were descried,
which Hinchel pointed out as the pass, or ford if it deserves
the name. We accordingly proceeded in that direction, and
taking off all unnecessary gear, strapping our mantles close
up, or wearing them like plaids over our shoulders, descended
through the trees and soon plunged into the river.
The first part of the ford was deep, but the water then
shallowed on nearing the shore, and the velocity of the noisy
stream greatly increased. Still we arrived easily enough
at the first island, but to pass from that to the smaller one
appeared at first to rather daunt even the Tehuelches. The
current was running like a millrace, and the waters foamed
over the uneven bottom with a rush and roar that rendered all
224 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. VII,
waruings inaudible. It was evident tliat only strong horses
could cross at all ; but one or two bolder spirits dashed in, and
although unacquainted with the pass, reached the second island
some distance down the river in safety, so the remainder
shortly followed, the women crossing behind the men; here and
there were places in the ford which necessitated swimming,
and in others were huge boulders, over which the water
swirled in large waves. At last we all reached the bank in
safety, and were met by some of Inacayal's Indians. Being
am.ong the lucky first arrivals, 1 came in for some apples and
other food that some of these people of Inacayal's had
thoughtfully brought with them from the toldos.
When all were mustered and had resumed their clothes,
we started for the toldos, where we were received by Inacayal,
and as it was needful to await those who had remained be-
hind drinking, we bivouacked by the bank of the river, and
shortly some cattle and mares were brought up and
slaughtered to satisfy the cravings of our hunger. After
bathing in the river, I was sitting by the fireside watching
our dinner cooking, when I received a message to say that I
was required in one of the toldos. In that indicated I found
an old Indian, a brother of Quintuhual, who spoke fluent
Si^anish ; he invited me to sit down, and then narrated that
an Englishman named Cox had formerly descended the river
from Lake Nahuel-huapi in a boat, but in trying to descend
under cover of night, had been wrecked in the rapids at the
bend, about a mile above the ford which we had recently
crossed : he then took refuge among these Indians, by whom
he was hospitably received, and subsequently returned to
Valdivia across the mountains, being unable to proceed to
Patagones. The old Indian entertained a most friendly feel-
ing for Mr. Cox, whom he had known well, as he had remained
several days in his toldo.
After talking some time about this, food was served, and
he then proceeded to ask my opinion as to the treatment the
Indians experienced from what he called the Spaniards,
stating that the Chilians were encroaching on one side and
Cu. VII.] GKAVINO. 225
the Argentines on the other, by which means the Indians
must eventually be driven off the face of the earth, or else
fight for their existence.
After some more conversation I returned to our fireside
accompanied by a half-bred nephew of Inacayal, who had
left Patagones some eight months previously, having been
* wanted ' by the Juez de Paz on account of his having de-
serted from the army, and having further, in a quarrel, either
killed or wounded a Frenchman. He was anxious to induce
me to use my influence with Casimiro to allow him to join
us, which I did not do for the best of reasons, viz., that he
appeared to be a great scoundrel, but I volunteered to take
a message to some of his friends in Patagones.
About midnight, bugle calls on the opposite side of the
river indicated the approach of the rest of the party, who
arrived next day, but Casimiro was in the bad temper
customary with him after a debauch, and steadily refused to
proceed and take advantage of the fine weather ; so another
day was spent in loitering about by the side of the river and
eating a great deal of beef.
My first cousins, who were also nephews of the old man
who had formerly been acquainted Avith Mr. Cox, started in
company with him to procure some apples and piiiones, pro-
mising me plenty when they returned. Meanwhile I made
acquaintance with a Pampa Indian named Gravino, who
must have originally been a Christian captive ; he himself
stated that his mother formerly resided near the settlements,
and described her as a Pampa Indian ; on her death he,
being about fifteen years of age, left the settlements to join
the Indians of her tribe, and had got but three days on his
journey when he met the united party of Tehuelches,
Pampas, and Araucanos, or, as he called them, Chilenos,
under the cacique Lenketrou, proceeding to make a raid on
the settlements ; he had nothing for it but to turn back, and
much against his will proceed to rob people under whose
protection he had formerly been. In the foray he, with
another youth of about his own age, succeeded in driving off
a troop of mixed horses and mares, but being dreadfully tired
Q
226 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
lie laid down to sleep in a retired place, having secured liis
riding horse by means of a lazo attached to his own ancle.
At night he was awoke by a stampede of all the horses ; and his
own taking fright at the same time dragged him some yards,
until disentangled by his companion, who cut the lazo : they
then tried to secure their animals, but found that the Arau-
canians had taken off all the best, so he did not make much
by the invasion. He had since been employed as a ' manso '
or tame Indian in the service of the Argentine Government,
but disliking the work had returned to the Pampas and
married a relation of Inacayal's. He was a fine-looking
young fellow, neatly dressed in ponchos made, as he informed
me, by his wife.
On the following day, amidst a storm of wind and rain, we
started for Las Manzanas. After ascending the northern
barrancas of the river valley, we traversed a level plain where
a hunting circle was made for form sake, as the ostriches
were very scarce, and I only saw one killed ; and passing
below, or rather to the N.E. of the hill before mentioned,
descended into a valley watered by a small stream ; this we
followed for some distance, until we arrived at a point where
another valley opened into it, the two united forming one of
considerable width. Here, under the shelter of some trees,
we halted and lit fires to warm ourselves, for the drenching
rain had by this time thoroughly forced its way through our
mantles. Whilst conversing and making as merry as possible
under the circumstances, a messenger dashed up, splashed
with blood, and with the effects of drink or furious excite-
ment visible in his face. All crowded round to hear the
news, and he shortly informed us that the party who had
started to obtain apples on the previous day had met another
party of Indians with liquor. A drinking bout ensued, and
a quarrel occurred in which a man was killed ; but the rest
went on drinking, leaving the body outside, where the dogs
made a meal of it. This so exasperated one of his comrades
that he galloped off to Cheoeque, to whose tribe the party
belonged, and the chief at once sent twenty-five horsemen to
surround my cousins and demand payment for the death.
Cit. VII.] A FKTIIT. 227
This tliey refused to give, so a figlit took place, in which four
out of the five brothers aud another were left for dead, with
lance thrusts all over them, the youngest escaping on his own
or somebody else's horse, after dropping four of the enemy who
tried to intercept him, with a revolver brought by me from
Santa Cruz. This was bad news for us, as we were bound to
protect these people, who belonged to our united Indians. '
A consultation tgok place, in the middle of which Inacayal
dashed up with a party all well armed with lances, in addition
to their other arms. Toyel's people came next, eager for the
fray; the Tehuelches, however, having an eye to business,
in the way of bartering the mantles they had brought with
them for trade, overruled the warlike ideas of these people,
saying ' it was better to wait a little.' Meanwhile guns were
loaded and arms got ready, and a party were being told off
to proceed to the scene of the melee and pick up the wounded,
when a messenger, arrived from Cheoeque with proposals of
a peace. I and the rest of the relations of those who had
been killed, as we then supposed, were placed under a guard
of Tehuelches for a short time until the party started to find
the wounded men. We then all proceeded a short distance
down the valley, and bivouacked in the pampa grass about a
mile and a half from, but out of sight of, the toldos of Cheoeque.
Messengers passed two or three times between the latter's
residence and our bivouac, and ultimately a very old woman
came over and made a long oration on the benefits of peace.
This was all very well, but as both parties were evidently
suspicious of each other, a watch was kept in the event of a
surprise ; and as we thought it probable that the negotiations
would fall through, we spent the night shivering round the
fires and making bolas perdidas. I assured Quintuhual and
Casimiro that there would be no fight, at which the latter
grew very irate, saying he knew better, that the whole business
was a trap to obtain the gear and firearms of our party, also
stating that T did not understand these Indians, in which I
differed from him. Later in the evening news came, that
although fearfully cut about, none of ' my cousins ' were dead;
the opposite party, however, had fared worse, losing three
228 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. Vl.
killed outriglit. For six men to fight against twenty-five
seems long odds, but I believe that Quintuhual's and Foyel's
people are the bravest Indians to be met with in the southern
part of America, fully deserving the proud title of 'the
Warrior Indians.'
The following morning at daylight all mounted their best
horses, and forming into column of six proceeded, with the
lancers of the warriors at our head, towards the toldos situated
in a valley running at right angles to the one we had rested
in the previous night. On arriving in sight of Cheoeque's
ancestral halls, we observed the Araucanians or Manzaneros
forming into line and manoeuvring about half a mile dis-
tant ; we approached to within 300 yards, and then forming
into open line to display our whole force (my proposal of
hiding a reserve behind an eminence having been overruled),
awaited the course of events. Thus we remained about half
an hour watching the Manzaneros, who presented a fine ap-
pearance, dressed in bright- coloured ponchos and armed with
their long lances ; they manoeuvred in four squadrons, each
with a leader — from whose lance fluttered a small pennon —
moving with disciplined precision, and forming line, wheeling,
and keeping their distances in a way that would not have
discredited regular cavalry.
At the end of the half hour's suspense hostages were ex-
changed, and we went through the ceremony of welcome.
The Tehuelches were all very excited, and being in the
middle of the troop, when we formed column and raced down
towards the Manzaneros, I at first thought that we were in
for a general scrimmage. On arriving, however, at the line,
our leaders wheeled sharp round, and we went through the
usual routine, with the unpleasant exception that both sides
had their guns and revolvers loaded with ball, and every now
and then a bullet would whistle past one's ears or close over
our heads. After the usual haiid-shaking between the chiefs,
the great Cheoeque, an intelligent-looking man of some
thirty-five years of age, well dressed in blue cloth ponchos,
a hat, and leather boots, rode down our line, shaking hands
with everybody and making some remark. When he arrived
Ch. VII.] THE GREAT CHEOEQUE. 229
at my number I felt rather ashamed of my dress, a simple
mantle not in a very good state of repair. He, on his side,
having asked who I was, appeared rather astonished at hearing
I was a.n Englishman, and having been further informed that I
had written the Spanish letters previously sent to him, which
had been translated by a Valdivian, stopped for some minutes
conversing with me. After this a parlemento took place,
during which all remained mounted, and the discussion lasted
till sundown, by which time every one was very hungry. The
conclusions arrived at related chiefly to effecting a firm and
lasting peace amongst the Indians present, on which point a
happy unanimity prevailed. Another day was aj)pointed for
the discussion of Casimiro's proj)Osition for guarding Pata-
gones, and the Chilian war with the Indians farther north;
also to consider Calficui'a's message concerning a raid on
Bahia Blanca, and the Buenos Aj^rean frontier generally.
One of the principal persons present at the parlemento was
a chief subordinate to Cheoeque, named Mafulko ; a fine-
looking old man, magnificently dressed in ponchos which, as
well as his arms, were profusely ornamented, indeed almost
covered, with silver; he was remarkable for a most stentorian
voice, which when raised in discussion became an absolute
roar, as of a bull of Bashan. He afterwards noticed me
particularly and was very courteous, pressing me to come
and visit him m his own country, Avhich lay to the northward
of the Snowy Mountain.
In his train was a man who accosted me in pure Spanish,
stating that he had read and translated my letter, and
warning me that these Indians hated the name of Spaniard.
Before I could make any inquiries he was called away ; but,
when in Patagones, questions were asked as to an unfortunate
settler who was a captive and slave amongst the Araucanians,
and the description tallied exactly with that of the poor
Spaniard. His master was, doubtless, fearful of recognition
and mediation on my part, so hastened to interrupt our
3olloquy.
We dispersed and bivouacked in the neighbourhood of
Oheoeque's toldos, where animals were lazoed and slain for
230 AT HOME WITH THB PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
our immediate wants ; and Manzaneros and Picunclie Indians
came round bartering piiiones, apples, and now and then a
little flour, for knives, bolas, &c. The piiiones were some in
husks and some ready husked, the white almond-like kernels,
about the size of dates, being strung on threads ; and,
whether roasted like chestnuts in their husks or boiled,
proved delicious. The apples also were deliciouslj fresh and
juicy, and I considered a score of them fairly purchased
for a pair of bolas, although my comrades declared I had
been cheated by the Picunche thieves.
Towards evening Cheoeque sent over to say that, as it was
late and disturbances might occur, he considered it would
be better not to allow any liquor to be sold until the following
day, when all arms might be stored in a safe place, and
anybody who felt disposed to get drunk might do so with
comfort. To this Casimiro agreed, further assuring me, in
the most positive manner, that he would keep sober. Whilst
we were sitting by the fireside, a bird, exactly resembling
our well-known nightjar, flew over our heads, uttering its
peculiar grating cry ; the Indians all looked startled, assert-
ing that it was a sign of ill luck, and that whenever this
bird croaked in the vicinity of an assembly of people some one
was sure to fall sick or die. Their superstitious belief in the
ill-omened bird received a confirmation, for in the middle of
the night, while asleep by the fire, I was roused by Graviel,
who, shaking my arm and shouting * Let us go, let us go !'
rushed away from the fire-light into the dark night. His
father and myself followed him, and after a long chase
caught and, with difiiculty, mastered him. He was rav-
ing mad, struggling violently, and vociferating incoherent
nonsense. When the fit had passed off, his exhaustion and
prostration were so great that all thought he would die ; but
he recovered for the time.
At break of day we were all on the alert; and, as the
evening previously we had been too tired and hungry to
observe the scenery, I proceeded to reconnoitre the locality
generally. To my great surprise, the head-quarters of
Cheoeque consisted but of four toldos, belonging to the chief
Ch. VII.] CHEOEQUE'S HEAD-QUAKTERS. 231
and liis brother-in-law, the men who had received us having
come from distant residences unaccompanied bj their wives,
and bivouacking, like ourselves, in the open air. The scene
of the encampment was a valley running east and west, the
western end being apparently shut in by some high moun-
tains, spurs of the Cordillera. A good stream watered this ,
valley, which was everywhere more or less wooded : away to
the north-west, about four miles distant, the apple-groves
might be seen; these trees had, however, already been
stripped of fruit, and it was necessary to proceed much
farther to the north to procure any ; but an expedition to
visit that district and to get fruit, planned by Orkeke,
Hinchel, myself, and others, proved impracticable. Beyond
the apjjle- groves the place was also pointed out where the
araucarias grow, from which the piiiones are gathered,
just below the snow-clad mountains we had viewed from the
ridge above the Eio Limay, and about thirty miles distant.
In our valley the pasture was rather scanty, although there
apjjeared to be sufficient for the three flocks of small sheep,
each owned by one of Cheoeque's wives, to get into good con-
dition ; but sheep will feed anywhere. Immediately behind
the toldos was situated a corral for enclosing cattle, none of
which, however, were visible, having, probably, been driven
off to some secluded valley near at hand, to avoid giving our
people a chance of helping themselves. Round this corral
were grouped the Indians of Cheoeque's tribe, and the
Picunches with fruit, &c. to barter ; and between the corral
and the river lay the bivouac of the Tehuelches ; our fire-
side being denoted by Casimiro's flag, the colours of the
Argentine Confederation. Up and down the valley, and
even about the neighbouring hills, were scattered our horses.
Proceeding to inspect the toldos, at which I had given but a
cursory glance the night before, I found that they were all
fixed dwellings ; that is to say, not put together so as to be
moved in marches, like those of the Patagonians. They
were, indeed, constructed in the same manner, but the poles
were much stouter, and the whole edifice more resembled a
house.
232 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
Cheoeque's toldo was quite sixteen feet high, and able to
accommodate forty men ; while three fires of huge billets
of wood burned in the front part. It was closed in com-
pletely, except a doorway in the corner with a skin cur-
tain by way of door ; and along the front ran a species of
verandah, composed of interwoven branches, forming a plea-
sant canopy, under the shade of which we sat and smoked.
Inside, the bed-places were raised on timber ; and altogether,
what with the sheep, corral, &c., the place had such an air
of civilisation about it that, with a small effort of imagina-
tion, one might have fancied oneself in a frontier estancia of
the settlements. There were other toldos hidden amongst
the trees on the northern side of the valley, but these I did
not visit.
About eight o'clock several loaded horses came in sight,
bringing the liquor which had been stowed away in the valley
in which we had encamped the night after the disturbance.
As soon as the jars and skins had been unloaded in Cheoeque's
toldo, an order was passed round for all arms to be given up,
find after some little difficulty they were neai-ly all collected and
towed in a safe place. The chiefs were then formally invited to
drink, and subsequently all comers were asked, the liquor being
provided in the most liberal manner by Cheoeque. This chief
was fully conscious of his high position and power ; his round,
jolly face, the complexion of which, inherited from his
Tehuelche mother, is darker than that of his subjects, ex-
hibited a lurking cunning, and his frequent laughter was
rather sardonic. He possessed a regally strong head, and
was disposed to despise Casimiro for his inebriety ; in fact it
was plain that he regarded himself, and not without reason,
as superior to all the caciques, even though they were not
subject to him.
Hinchel, myself, and many of the Araucanians had re-
mained away ; and I was proceeding to look up the horses,
when I was called to the corral by some of the Picunches.
These men presented a cast of countenance decidedly differing
from, and much inferior to, that of the Araucanians, from whom
they were easily distinguished by their darker complexions ;
Ch. yil] interview with CHEOEQUE. 233
but they were very courteous, asking how I came to be with
the Tehuelches, and what sort of a place my country was ;
and were pleased when I told them it was hilly and well
wooded, and, referring to Devonshire, that apples abounded.
Of course all our conversation was carried on by means of an
interpreter (a Yaldivian). After a few more questions some
rum was produced, and having taken a glass I mounted and
proceeded on my original quest. Hinchel rode a part of the
way with me, as he was bound in search of a former acquaint-
ance, whose toldo was pitched about four leagues distant, and
who was, he said, the best worker in silver amongst the
Indians. I afterwards saw specimens of his handiwork, in
the shape of silver tubes for ornamenting stirrup-leathers,
and the appearance of these and other silver ornaments made
of solid metal in peculiar patterns, evidently of their own
devising, left little doubt in my mind that these Indians or
some of the neighbouring tribes possess the knowledge of the
places whence the precious ore is to be obtained, and smelt
it themselves.
On returning after having counted and driven the troop of
horses belonging to our party down to the best pasture, I
found that Cheoeque had sent several messengers in search
of me, so I at once proceeded to his toldo, where I found him
and Mariano Linares sitting on two real chairs, the latter
playing a guitar, Casimiro slightly inebriated and vowing
eternal friendship, and howling Indians, men and women, in
various stages of intoxication, all round. Cheoeque shook
hands, invited me to a seat, and provided me with a glass of
grog out of his own bottle, which it is needless to say was not
watered like the remainder. I then took advantage of a
slight confusion occasioned by an Indian wishing to embrace
Cheoeque, and retired, but was intercepted, and had to drink
with various acquaintances before reaching the bivouac.
As our fireside was soon occupied by noisy, half-drunken
Indians, amongst others Hinchel's son, who, very drunk, had
come to get his gun for the purpose of killing the master of
the revels, but was fortunately overthrown and bound down
by his father, who opportunely arrived, I retired to Foyel's
234 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
bivouac, wliere Gravino and otliers were keeping guard, to
be in readiness to look after their chief. He arrived soon
after midnight, much to their relief.
The jealousy existing between Foyel and Cheoeque, which
had broken out in the disturbance so nearly fatal to my
cousins, had existed ever since the migration of this chief
and Quintuhual to the south, and all the Araucanos of their
following kept themselves on this occasion as much as possible
aloof, and abstained from sharing in the jovialities, while the
Tehuelches, who were unconcerned in the matter, enjoyed
themselves freely.
The next day Foyel and Quintuhual marched oif their
followers in regular array, and proceeded homewards followed
by many of the Tehuelches, the great races which it had
been settled to hold being abandoned in consequence of the
uneasy state of feeling and the consequent fears of a quarrel:
the fight in that case would have been an obstinate one, as
Cheoeque's forces would not have been much too strong for
their opponents, although outnumbering them. We had
been surprised on arriving not to find more Indians ready to
I'eceive us, as we only counted ninety lances, but it transpired
that some were concealed in the woods by the side of the
river, who did not appear ; besides these seventy or a hundred
men had gone to Patagones to obtain their chief's ration
of cattle, but 200 more, friends and relations of Foj^el, who
were on their march to the rendezvous at Las Manzanas, had
turned back on hearing of the attack made by Cheoeque's
party on their friends, my cousins. Whether they remained
away in order to be neutral or to come to the support of their
kinsmen did not appear, but Foyel had frequently boasted
that 200 of Cheoeque's followers would espouse his quarrel.
The Picunches were the original cause of the feud. This
tribe, asserted by Antonio Guaitu, who gave them the name
of Chollo, to be a branch of the Araucanians, are under
Cheoeque's dominion, though governed by local caciques.
As already mentioned, they live near the passes of the
Cordillera and plunder all travellers. They had not respected
Foyel's messenger bringing him stores from Valdivia, and at
Ch. VII.] FEUDS BETWEEN THE CHIEFS. 235
last forcibly annexed two sheepskins of rum, on whicli
occasion some fighting ensued. Thereupon Foyel sent
Cheoeque a defiant message to the effect that if any more
robberies by his subjects took place, he should make reprisals ;
that the latter chief must have imagined that he (Foyel) had
forgotten how to ride and use his lance. All this was sub-^
sequently amicably settled, but in the end Foyel, who was by
right under the rule of Cheoeque, preferred to throw off his
allegiance and retire across the Eio Limay. The chief reason
alleged by him was that although Cheoeque received large
rations of cattle from the Buenos Ayrean Government, he
never thought fit to share them with his subordinate chiefs.
How far these stories were true I cannot say ; as to the
Picunches and their subjection to Cheoeque, the Valdivians
had been detained over a year waiting for a safe conduct,
which was at length obtained on the eve of our arrival, and
as far as could be afterwards ascertained, they passed un-
molested, although probably suffering loss of cattle from the
weather, as it was full late in the year to cross the passes,
which during the winter are obstructed by snow and swollen
rivers.
Antonio and Ventura Delgado assured me they would have
to cross one river seven times owing to its tortuous windings,
and on every occasion be obliged to swim their animals. This
I at first fancied to be a branch of the Eio Limay, but in
answer to other inquiries the Valdivians stated that it flowed
to the westward. Apropos of this route, an enterprising
German had some short time previously crossed from Valdivia
to trade with the Indians ; he was allowed to pass unmolested
with all his merchandise, and drove a profitable trade, and at
last started on his return journey with a goodly stock of
horses and gear, but near the passes he was stripped of every-
thing and left to make his way homewards on foot if possible.
It was very tantalising to be so near Valdivia and not to be
able to explore the route thither and visit the Picunches, and
indeed Casimiro and myself had planned a trip from Las
Manzanas, but it was abandoned, owing to the lateness of
the season and other circumsta^ices, combined with my own
236 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
conviction that if the Cacique got into Valdivia he would not
le able to tear himself away from civilised pleasures for too
long a period.
After the drinking bout and the departure of Foyel's party,
a day devoted to trading intervened, political discussions
being postponed in consequence of the indisposition of
Casiiniro, who required twenty-four hours to recover from
the effects of Cheoeque's hospitality. Our Tehuelches, thanks
to the profuse generosity of Cheoeque, disposed of all their
wares to advantage, and becanie the happy possessors of
numerous horses, silver ornaments, and mandils. Had it
been necessary for them to purchase liquor, they woidd have
returned empty-handed and in bad tempers. The Manzaneros
appeared to depend on the Tehuelches for their supply of
toldo coverings, just as the latter in their turn must procure
from them the woven mandils and ponchos. I noticed that
the horses brought up for sale by the Manzaneros more re-
sembled those used in the Argentine States than the breed
common amongst the Tehuelches, showing finer points and
greater speed for racing on flats, but being inferior in the
staying powers requisite for hunting.
The second parlemento or council, attended by numerous
chiefs, was duly held, in which Mariano Linares, brother of
the chief of the Indians in pay of the Government, parti-
cipated. He was a connection by marriage of Cheoeque's,
and had been despatched from Patagones to induce him to
keep the peace. The speeches of the Araucanos were made
in a peculiar chant, intoned in fact, in a manner closely re-
sembling that I have since heard in some churches at home.
Cheoeque thus intoned an harangue setting forth how chiefs
had come to him from Araucania proper, soliciting his aid in
the war with Chili. He had at first refused to receive them,
but at last had heard what they had to say, and it was pro-
bable that he might send a small force to assist his country-
men.
Calficura's message relating to the foray on the settlements
had been forwarded to us already. Many speeches were
made, and Linares and Casimiro pointed out that it was to
Ch. YIL] CALFICURAS raids on I3AHIA BLANC A. 237
the Cacique's interest not to interfere, as he would inevitably
lose the valuable supplies of horses and cattle given him by the
Buenos Ayrean Government, and that it was more profitable
to receive the annual rations than plunder and break up the
Rio Negro settlements. Finally, it was unanimously resolved
that a message should be sent to Calficura, desiring him to
confine his hostilities to Bahia Blanca, and that Cheoeque'
should protect the north bank of the Eio Negro and guard
Patagones on that side, while Casimiro guaranteed the
southern, which arrangement was duly adhered to on both
sides. Accordingly Calficura revenged his real or supposed
injuries on the ' Cristianos ' by two destructive inroads into
Bahia Blanca, carrying off plunder and captives. But letters
from the Rio Negro have informed me that jjeace had been
restored, and an exchange or ransom of j)risoners effected.
This will be more fully dwelt upon, but it is mentioned here
in order to show • that the Indians are fully aware of the
advantages of peace, though they are undoubtedly, the
Araucanians especially, jealous of the encroachments of
foreigners, and the traditions of their past history have
caused them to hold the very name of Spaniard or
' Cristiano ' in abhorrence. It is also difficult for the
superior caciques in all cases to restrain the petty caciquillos
from small depredations ; but a fair and well-arranged
system of ' rations ' will prevent them from making forays,
and it is much to be regretted that the well-intentioned and
liberal x^la-ns of the Buenos Ayrean Government for the
protection of the frontiers are too often thwarted by the un-
scrupulous agents who enrich themselves by appropriating
the supplies intended for the Indians. Some may consider
the method of keeping the chiefs quiet by pensions un-
dignified ; but it is certainly a more humane and economical
policy than continual wars of reprisals, which in the end
would lead to the extermination either of the Indians or the
settlers, most jjrobably the latter, and the certain im-
poverishing of the country.
After the parlemento a grand banquet was given by
238 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cu. VII.
Cheoeque to all tlie assembled caciques and their sons.
Over three huge fires in his spacious toldo, large iron pots
were supported on tripods, containing beef, mutton, and
horse flesh. The guests sat down as they could, while
Cheoeque sat, as the Spaniards say, ' on horseback ' on a
chair in the middle of the toldo, dressed in a magnificent cat
slcin mantle, and holding a ' revengue ' or hide whip in his
hand, with which he ever and anon chastised an intrusive
dog, or even one of his numerous sons if they came too near,
or made too much noise.
The small boys were evidently used to it, and showed
great agility in avoiding a blow, and equal unconcern if they
received it. The chief's three wives presided at the fires,
and wooden platters loaded with large portions of meat and
a due allowance of fat were handed round for the first course.
Each guest was expected to consume all that was in the
platter, and when cleared it was carried off, washed, and re-
filled for another. The second course consisted of apples
and pinones, raw or cooked according to taste, and it was
strict etiquette to eat or pocket all the fruit suj)plied.
Water was handed round after the feed, no other drink being
produced save a private bottle, from which the chief helped
two or three of his most favoured guests. There must have
been at least thirty present at once, and there were ample
room and abundant supplies. And subsequently a succes-
sion of guests of less distinction were fed ; all the Teliuel-
ches as well as Araucanos and Picunches being maintained
during their stay by the chief.
I was very much struck with the obedience and respect
evinced by these people towards their Cacique. His
authority extends as far north as Mendoza, over hundreds of
Indians, residing in fixed tolderias, some few in the valley
near Manzanas, but the chief part more to the northward,
near the groves of araucarias. But the power of the chief
is absolute, and his word is law to his most distant subjects.
At an order from him they leave their toldos, wives, and
children, and repair mounted, and ready for any service, to
Ch. vii.j semi-civilised araucanos. 239
his liead-qnartcrs. His wealth is considerable : besides the
numerous flocks and herds, one of the toldos was used simplj
as a treasury, where his stores of silver ornaments, ponchos,
mantles, &c., were safely stowed away.
I was present in his toldo at the arrival of a messenger.
The Indian, who had evidently come from a long distance, did
not venture to enter until commanded to do so, when, with the *
utmost respect, he took his seat at a distance from the chief,
communicated his message, received his orders, and retired ;
when again ready for the road he appeared to receive final
instructions, after which he mounted his horse and rode off
without more ado.
The subordinate caciques, whose office and rank are
hereditary, appeared to be finer and more intelligent men
than the rank and file. Whether this was owing to a dif-
ference of race, or merely to theii' aristocratic descent and
hereditary refinement of features and bearing, I cannot say ;
but their superiority was very marked ; whereas among the
Tehuelches no such difference between the caciques and
their clansmen is observable. The superiority of these semi-
civilised Araucanos to their southern neighbours was
evident in every way, save only bodily strength. Their
residence in a more fertile country, near the apple and
araucaria groves, gives them great advantages over the
nomad Patagonians. They cultivate wheat, small quantities
of which were brought to us for sale ; besides storing the
natural harvest of piiiones and apples, from which, as before
stated, they brew cider of unusual strength, and also distil
' pulco,' an intoxicating liquor, from the algarroba bean. My
intercourse with both Foyel's people and those at Manzanas
was not sufficiently long to enable me to become conversant
with their language and customs, which have been described by
others. The language, of which I learnt a few words, seemed
softer and more melodious, as well as possessing a more
copious vocabulary, than the guttural Tehuelche, and ap-
peared to me closely akin to the Pampa tongue ; but
Jackechan, who could speak both, and Gravino, strongly
insisted on the distinction between the two dialects. Their
240 AT HO]\IE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
personal habits were excessively neat and cleanly, tlie morn-
ing bath never being omitted by men, women, and children,
who all regularly trooped down to the water just before dawn ;
and their dress was much more carefully attended to than that
of the Patagonians. I had no opportunity of witnessing
their religious ceremonies, but was assured that they are
worshippers of the sun, and there was no vestige of idols of
any sort possessed by them. Their ceremonials on occasions
of births, &c., were very similar to those of the Tehuelches,
save that the ' doctor ' appeared on such occasions more
elaborately adorned with various colours.
When Quintuhual's niece was sick, her brother enacted
the part of * wizard,' duly painted and adorned with a head-
dress of feathers. Instead of a mandil tent, a screen of
j)onchos hung over posts was erected, and all the finery of
the family displayed. I was a guest at the feast of slaughtered
mares, but was not j)resent at the previous proceedings, as
by this time the restraints of dignity as a caciquillo forbade
my wanderiug about as an idle spectator.
They were invariably scrupulous not to commence a meal
without first throwing broth or a small piece of meat on the
ground, at the same time muttering a charm to propitiate
the Gualichu, and they are generally more sujDerstitious
and more fearful of witchcraft than even the other Indians.
They have some knowledge of precious stones, and seem to
attribute certain virtues to them. Thus Foyel possessed
what seemed to be a magnificent rough turquoise, which he
was on the point of bestowing on me, when his wife and
brother-in-law interposed some remark, upon which he
apologised, saying that he did not like to part with it, as it
had been long in the family. They object strongly, how-
ever, to any strangers picking up stones as specimens,
or appearing to ' prospect ' in any way, which, being fore-
warned by Ventura Delgado, I was especially careful to
avoid. Mons. Guinnard has given a description of some of
their games, differing from those in vogue among the
Tehuelches, as for instance gambling with black and white
beans. Casimiro is my authority for stating that this people
Ch. VII.] CHEOEQUE'S INVITATION TO EETUEN. 241
preserve the singular custom of abduction in mamage. The
intending bridegroom does not trouble himself to obtain the
consent of the bride, but having paid the fixed dowry or
price to her parents, he gallops up, and forcibly seizing the
girl caiTies her off before him to the bush, -whence, after an
enforced honeymoon of two days, they return as man and
wife to his dwelling. This, however, is not the practice in
the case of the marriage of a cacique's daughters. Polygamy
is allowable : thus the great Cheoeque possessed three wives,
the chief favourite, whose amiable good-humour deserved
the honour, occupying the central place in the toldo ; but
all three lived in perfect harmony and took care of each
other's children with impartial affection.
These Araucanos are, as I have said, apt to kidnap or buy
captives, and I am inclined to suspect that there is a scarcity
of women amongst them, of Avhich the exterminating cruel-
ties practised towards women and children by the frontier
' Cristianos ' is a probable cause. They are certainly more
dangerous to strangers than the Southern Indians, and it is
unsafe to venture amongst them without proper safe con-
ducts from the cacique.
To myself Cheoeque offered permission to travel directly
north through the interior of the country as far as the
Argentine Provinces, guaranteeing my safety ; and the
temptation w^as only resisted by reflecting on the necessity
of keeping faith with my Tehuelche friends by proceeding
to Patagones. He also gave me a cordial invitation to
return, and an assurance that I should be always welcomed
as a friend. All our business, both commercial and political,
being concluded, and the farewell banquet over, Cheoeque ■
distributed gifts of horses, &c., among the Tehuelches in
return for the numerous presents he had received from them.
As a set-off to a set of gold studs, he presented me with one
of the peculiar lances always used by his people, about fifteen
to eighteen feet long and very light, the shaft being made of
a cane, which grows in the Cordillera forests, strongly re-
sembling a bamboo, and of the thickness of the butt of a
stout pike rod. This present, by the way, caused me to
B
242 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
commit a breacli of etiquette. I placed it leaning against
tlie toldo, and was at once requested to remove it, as it was
a sign of war, though whether it was regarded as a challenge
or an omen was not clear ; but I was instructed that the lance
must either be laid down on, or planted upright in the ground.
Another lance was also bestowed on Casimiro, besides numer-
ous horses and other valuables. We took leave of the powerful
Cheoeque, and of Linares, with whom, as it had been settled
that I shoiild proceed as chasqui, I made an agreement to meet
in Patagones, and on the 11th started on our return to the
toldos, all in high satisfaction at the success of our visit.
The natural exultation of Casimiro was much lessened by
the continual illness of his son Graviel, on whom a careful
watch had to be kept to restrain him, in the event of his
being attacked by another paroxysm of madness.
Riding up the valley where we had slept the night pre-
vious to arriving at Cheoeque' s, we observed some cattle in
the thicket on the borders of the stream ; part of the herd
belonging to the chief, which had been stowed away in
various secluded parts of the neighbourhood. We crossed
the barren high pampa, and descended, about one o'clock,
to the banks of the Rio Limay, bivouacking in the same
spot as on our journey to Las Manzanas, close to Inacayal's
toldos. Here we found Orkeke and a good many other
Tehuelches ; also the four wounded men, two of whom were
already on the high road to recovery.
We proceeded to InacaypJ's toldo at his personal request,
where we remained until evening was drawing on, when
cattle were brought up, caught, and slain, and divided
amongst the chiefs. Whilst busy shaving a piece of hide where-
with to make some gear, I received a message from Orkeke,
whose fire was situated at perhaps a hundred paces from
ours, that he wished to see me when disengaged, and after
supper I strolled down, and found the veteran sitting loading
his pipe. After a smoke, he invited me to accompany him to
inspect his newly-acquired troop of horses, and show him
which I considered to be the best. I picked out a young
white animal that had belonged to Cheoeque's own stud.
Cji. \'ii.] orkeke's generosity. 243
* Very well/ lie replied ; ' take him ; lie is yours ; I never
made you any return for the revolver you gave me in Teckel. '
Although I did not require the horse, it would have been
insulting to refuse it, so I walked off with my racer in tow.
This little incident is mentioned to correct the notion enter-
tained by some that the greed of gain is a predominant^
feature ia the Indian character.
The following morning we bid adieu to Inacayal and his
people, and turned our horses' heads for the pass of the river
Limay, which was if possible more swollen and rapid than on
the previous occasion ; but we all crossed in safety, although
Casimiro's and my horse fell once, fortunately where the water
was shallow. Everybody, however, got thoroughly wet, and a
continual downfall of ram coming on, prevented all chance of
drying our mantles. We marched back by a route lying to
the westward of that we had before followed, passing under
and amongst the high wooded mountains, on the heights of
which every now and then we could perceive a condor sitting
in majestic solitude, looking down on us like a priest from a
pulpit.
About four P.M. the rain cleared off, and we bivouacked in
a grassy valley, with incense and other bushes growing on
the sides. Here, owing to the sickness of Graviel and
another of our party, we passed a miserable time, not even
being able to get dry ; and in addition to our previous dis-
comfort, towards evening a frost set in, and when I woke up
about midnight to look round for the horses my mantle was
like a board.
I kindled a fire, as the weather was now clear, and soon
all the party were huddled round it to warm their half- frozen
limbs before lying down again.
The next morning at daylight, thoroughly chilled and
hungry, two of us started to fetch the horses, some of the new
ones having, as we expected, found their way back to within
a few miles of the Rio Limay. However, by the time the sun
had risen to sufficient height to give some warmth, we had
caught up the others of our party, and not sparing our horses,
R 2
244 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VII.
by two o'clock had passed througli tlie street of rocks and
come in sight of the toldos, where we shortly arrived.
Before sunset all the Tehuelches had returned to the
bosoms of their families, and all were glad to sleep under the
shelter of a toldo once more, after having passed twelve days
and nights in stormy weather without any covering save our
mantles. .
The 14th of April, the morning after our return, a com-
plaint was made b}^ Foyel's people that the Tehuelche Indians
left behind, thinking it useless to proceed to the plains, some
miles distant, to hunt for the supply of the toldos whilst
cattle and sheep Avere grazing in the immediate vicinity, had
helped themselves in the obscurity of the night. Mena cor-
roborated the fact ; and although he had been away hunting
with the greatest assiduity, he had met with but little
success, and complained bitterly of the hungry times they
had endured.
Soon after our arrival Kai Chileno was seized with illness,
and in a few days several of the more aged and children
sickened with headache and fever, showing all the symp-
toms of severe influenza. Alarmed lest the sickness should
spread, on the 16th of April most of the Tehuelches struck
toldos and took the road leading to Patagones; but our
toldo and another remained behind on account of the con-
tinued illness of Graviel and the others. Towards evening
of the same day we suddenly heard shouts and cries in the
toldos of Foyel, and all except Casimiro, who sat quite still
by the fireside, rushed to seize their arms, naturally thinking
that a party had arrived to fight from Las Manzanas. After
a little suspense we observed a line of men advancing towards
our toldos on foot, shouting, firing, and bi*andishing their
arms. Casimiro, who was having a quiet laugh at us, then
explained that they were only fighting the sickness. The
party advanced to our toldo, beating the back of it with
theii* lances, to scare away the Gualichu, and then retired.
We all had a good laugh over this affair ; and I was
amused to hear Mena, who was an intelligent youth, arguing
that the Indians were quite right, as sickness never attacked
an armed man.
Ch. VII.] DEPAETUEE FEOM GEYLUM. 245
We lived chiefly ou air the last four days of our stay in
Geylum, as no hunting was done ; but Foyel, after learning
our wants, came to the rescue, presenting me with a couple
of sheep, which I received with gratitude, and divided
amongst the party.
It had been intended that his party should accompany the
Tehuelches to Patagones, but as it would be necessary to
leave their women and children in Geylum with only a few
boys to take care of the flocks and herds, and they were not
confident as to the pacific intentions of the Manzaneros, he
and Quintuhual considered it more advisable to remain for
the present in their camp, and afterwards, by riding in fast,
to overtake our party en route previous to their arrival in
the settlements.
I bid an affectionate adieu to Miss Foyel, who had always
shown me the greatest kindness, and the natural grace of
whose manners would have adorned a civilised drawing-room.
Her parting words were an invitation to return if possible
and pay another visit to the toldo, where I had been made
to feel myself at home.
Her father asked me to procure him a grinding organ, as
Casimiro had informed him that he had seen music made by
turning a handle. I promised to get one if I could, and
after a cordial farewell returned to our toldo, as we intended
going away at daylight on the 17th.
Accordingly we prepared for a start ; and a boy came ovei
from the other toldos to join us. He was a Tehuelche, whose
father had been killed on suspicion of witchcraft, and being
a remote connexion of Casimiro's, had claimed his protection,
which of course was granted, and he (Casimiro) had agreed
to take him with us, informing him that he was to act as my
page, look after my horses, &c., and make himself generally
useful. This was a very fine idea, but one glance at the
face and figure of this illustrious youth was sufiicient to show
me that I should probably spend my time in looking after
him, and a more mischievous imp I never saw. When told
that he might catch one of my horses to travel on, he imme-
246 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. Vll.
diatelj fixed on the wrong one, a horse that I had myself
barely mounted for perhaps six weeks, in order to get it into
condition for the journey into Patagones.
This horse he caught, and came down to the toldos at full
gallop over rocks, stones, and bushes, with a grin of delight
on his face. After being warned in mild terms that he was
not to ride that horse, which I took from him and turned
loose, he proceeded to catch one of Casimiro's, which he
treated in the same manner, but at length got the right one,
and then, without saying 'With your leave, or by your leave,'
galloped off, yelling at the top of his voice, to follow the
road which the Indians had taken the previous day.
We were about to start ourselves when, at the last moment,
Quintuhual sent to say that he wished to have a council.
So Casimiro and myself remained in the pourhig rain
squatting on the grass listening to a repetition of what we
had heard the previous day.
When the council was concluded a sheep was brought up
and killed. The poor beast was lashed to a post with its
head looking to the sky, and the throat being cut, salt was
forced into the wound, the lip of which was compressed
secundum artem, in order to flavour the blood and lungs, &c.,
which formed the repast. All the girls then crowded round,
each preferring a request to us to bring a little yerba, flour,
sugar, &c., from the settlements, till, our horses being ready,
mine having been additionally burdened with the dead mutton
by way of provisions for the road, we extricated ourselves from
the crowd, and amidst repeated injunctions, charges, and
affectionate farewells, got away, and towards 4 p.m. started
to overtake the now distant cavalcade.
Cii. VIII.] JOUENEY TO THE EIO NEGEO. 247
CHAPTER VIII.
GEYLUM TO PATAGONES.
A Sick Camp. — Oerroe Volcanic Hill. — Crime's Deathbed. — Graviel's Pro-
motion.— The Burning Ground. — Hot Springs. — Fighting the Gualichu.
— A Real Fight.— A Soda Lake. — Encampment at Telck. — The Doctor
comes to Grief. — An Obliging Ostrich.— Appointed Chasqui. — Miseries
of Pampa Life. — A Bad Time. — The Plains of Margensho. — Casimiro's
Distrust. — Doctor and Sick Child. — Duties of a Messenger. — Departure
of the Chasquis. — Travelling Express. — The Paved Pampas. — An Ideal
Bandit. — Letter from the Chupat Colony. — Trinita. — Teneforo's Pampas.
— Champayo's Generosity. — A Morning Drink. — Departure from Trinita.
— Valchita. — The Pig's-Road. — Wild Horses. — The Travesia. — Limit
of the Patagonian Fauna and Flora. — First View of the Rio Negro. —
Sauce Blanco. — The Guardia. — San Xaviel. — Approach to Patagones.
— Seiior Murga. — Welsh Hospitality. — Among Friends at Last.
We were now fairly started on our journey eastward to the
Eio Negro, on my part with contending feelings of regret at
quitting my recently acquired and amiable relatives, and of
joyfal expectation of reaching Patagones and finding there
that which travellers, amidst all the excitement of new
countries and strange people, still so eagerly long for — news
from home ! We galloped forward casting longing looks
behind at the forest-clad slopes and snowy peaks of the
Cordillera, the never-to-be-forgotten beauty of which made
the dismal prospect of the country before us still more dreary.
My friends had been unanimous in describing the district
that intervened between Geylum and a place sj)oken of as
Margensho, nine marches distant, as both difficult to travel,
and affording scanty pasture for the horses and little game
for the people. The rain which had been falling when we
left, had turned to sleet driven by a strong westerly gale,
and my load of mutton sadly interfered with the manage-
248 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
ment of the sheltering mantle. Fortunately, as the direc-
tion of our route was easterly, we thus escaped having to
face the storm, while the gale in our backs stimulated both
horses and riders to their utmost speed.
At the entrance of the rock- strewn gorge which formed
the eastern gateway of the valley of Geylum, to the south of
which towered the isolated column of rock, we were suddenly
startled by the apparition of mounted Indians galloping
towards us from the direction which our advanced party had
taken. Conjectures as to possible calamity in the shape of a
fight or accident were speedily dispelled, as they proved to
be Tehuelches riding back in search of lost horses, which
they averred had been stolen and craftily concealed by the
Araucanians. So we continued our march through a succes-
sion of narrow rocky gorges winding amongst the liills, till,
as the twilight was growing dark, we arrived, wet and weary,
and feeling symptoms of illness, at the encampment situated
in one of the usual grassy valleys. The toldo when reached
proved to be in utter disorder, two of the women and a
child having been attacked with the epidemic ; so we set to
work ourselves to light a fire, secure the skin covering of the
toldo, and arrange the beds, and after a time the interior
assumed a more ship-shape aspect, although the grass (our
carpet) and everything else were wet. On every side one
heard complaints of some child having fallen sick, and
throughout the night the wailing cry of the women ' Ah
gelay loo ! ' over their darlings rendered sleep all but im-
possible. Next morning broke fine and clear, so it was
determined to march onwards in the hope that speedy change
might get rid of the epidemic, but starting was almost as
difficult as staying.
Of our party Meiia had returned to look for a missing
horse ; Crime was dying, and Casimiro was attending to him ;
and what with sick friends and children all were occupied or
distracted, and the business of catching the horses devolved
on myself, single-handed at first. Having secured the troop,
the next task was to catch my newly-acquired steed; the
sight of a lazo was sufficient to make him gallop a league.
Ch. VIII.] OERROE VOLCANIC HILL. 249
and as he was very swift, three hours were spent in ineffectual
efforts, but at last, two or three of my comrades coming up
to my assistance, he was caught. Giving my flibbertigibbet
page charge of the remaining horses, I started, in company
with one of my friends, to join the hunting circle, already in
course of formation. ,
We rode up a valley in an easterly direction, on our way
passing the invalid Crime, who, groaning with pain, lay
stretched out at full length on a sort of couch composed of
blankets on the horse's back, his wife leading the horse and
wailing out loud. But as condolences were of little use, we
passed on in silence, and shortly emerged fi*om the valley,
which sloped up by gradual ascent to a wide plain of sandy
soil and stunted bushes, bounded on the eastern horizon by
a line of high jagged hills, which stretched to the southward
as far as the eye could reach. While sitting under a bush
by the fire, I was attacked with headache and sickness, the
premonitory symptoms of the epidemic ; however, I mounted
and joined the hunting party, and at the end of the circle
felt much better, although unable to eat.
The finish brought us to the entrance of a valley which
wound among the precipitous rocky hills of the range seen
from the farther verge of the plain. While watching the
cavalcade of women and baggage, I looked long in vain for
my own troop of four horses, but at last descried them trotting
without a guide in the rear of the column, their natural
sagacity or perhaps thirst having induced them to follow
their comrades. The trusty page had left them to take care
of themselves, and gone off hunting on his own account,
which behaviour, repeated on a subsequent occasion, caused
the loss of the stud. Towards evening we encamped in a
valley enclosed by three hills, one of which, of decidedly
volcanic aspect, was named ' Oerroe.' The side of this hill
was thickly scattered with fragments of the vesicular lava
which furnishes the favourite material for the hand bolas.
As most of us had exchanged our weapons of the chase for
apples, pinones, &c., in Las Manzanas, many were soon
employed picking stones and fashioning bolas. I took very
250 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. YIII.
good care that mj page should be unprovided with hunting
implements, but, alas ! here he fell sick, or pretended to be,
and was just as useless as before. The day after our arrival
Crime's sufferings were terminated. I received a summons
to his death-bed ; the Cacique, though wandering, knew his
friends, and called all to witness that his death had been
caused by a Southern Tehuelche whom he named and
described, and then, raising his arm, pointed to a vacant
space and cried, ' Look at him, there he stands.' He then
asked me to ' feel his arm,' and as, to jjlease him, I laid my
finger on his pulse it beat slower and slower, till, with a
sudden gasp, he died. According to etiquette we silently
retired, and the toldo resounded with the clamorous crying
of the women and the wailing of his widow. The usual
funeral rites were hurriedly gone through, but most were
too absorbed in their own troubles to participate in them.
During the night three children died, and more were at
death's door ; and, the supply of horseflesh from the funeral
victims being abundant, all thoughts of marching were
abandoned, and the camp resounded with the lamentations
of the women. In our toldo all the inmates were sick, and
the duty of looking after the horses devolved on myself and
Casimiro, who was recovering from his attack.
We were joined in this place by Hinchel's son with his
Araucanian wife, with whom another man came to look for
a girl who had run away from Foyel's toldo, but liis quest
proved fruitless, as she remained invisible, stowed away in
some of the toldos. This man brought further news that
Cheoeque's people, renewing the old feud, were arming to
fight now that we had gone ; also that a man had been killed
in a drunken brawl since our departure, and that a rumour
was current that the Valdivians had had their cattle taken
from them, and various other stories, most of which were
declared to be lies by Orkeke, who, having lost a horse, had
returned to look for it in Geylum ; the budget of alarming
news thus proving to be a fresh illustration of the Indians'
proneness to invent if they have nothing of real imj)ortance
wherewith to astonish their hearers. Crime's widow took
Ch. VIII.] DEATH OF CRIME — HIS SUCCESSOR. 251
up her abode iii our toldo ; and as, by this chief's death, the
post of Capitanejo, with the rank of Lieutenant in the
Buenos Ayrean army, and the right of drawing rations, was
vacant, Casimiro consulted me as to his successor. But
successive proposals of those who seemed most fit, beginning
with Waki, were objected to by the Cacique, who at last^
declared that he should name his almost insane son Graviel
as the chief to be placed by the Argentine Govern ment upon
the list of the Caciques to be conciliated by annual pay ! On
April 22 a start was made, but we remained to the last, as
four of Casimiro 's horses which I had brought down to the
valley the previous evening were missing, so the chieftain
returned to look for them, and the rest of the toldo pursued
their journey.
After taking a farewell look at the Cordillera, which was
presently shut out from view by the hills, the counterslope
of which we descended, a hurried march led us through a
very barren rocky country entangled in broken irregular
hills, with scarcely a bush to shelter under, and little or no
pasture. We encamped, or rather reached the camp after
it was pitched, in a caiion containing a small spring and a
very little green pasture, and went to bed supperless, as, not
being in time for the hunt, and game being very scarce,
what we could beg from our neighbours was naturally given
to those recovering from sickness.
Jackechan's wife and child were still very unwell, and, as
the child was supposed to be dying, the doctor was sent for.
He proceeded to cure it by laying it on the ground, mutter-
ing a charm and patting it on the head ; after which he put
his mouth close to its chest and shouted to bring the devil
out : he then turned it on its face and repeated the same
process. The child's health mended next day, and it was
shortly out of danger.
About ten o'clock at night Casimiro returned with his
horses, which had strayed a considerable distance on the
road back to Geylum. The next day a long march of
twenty miles brought us to an encampment on the western
verge of a broad plain, watered by a brooklet. During the
252 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGO^'IANS. [Ch. VIII.
hunt tlie first Patagoniau bares, or cavies, were caught.
These little animals live in burrows, but are generally out
feeding or sleeping in the grass during the day. They are
excessively swift for perhaps a mile, but, like the foxes of
this country, soon get tired. The chase of these small deer
afforded an agreeable relief to the monotony of the journey.
As soon as we entered a plain or valley where they abounded,
as they always were found in numbers where the pasture
was good, all huriied off to ' stop the earths,' i.e. close up
the burrows with bushes ; but the cunning little beasts often
evaded us b}" slipj)ing into a burrow overlooked by the earth
stoppers. It required considerable skill to bring them down
with the bolas, as, if only caught round the legs or body,
they disentangled themselves quickly, but a blow on the
head proved at once fatal. They are good eating, though
the flesh is somewhat dry when roasted. Their skins are
made up into mantles, but are of little value, as the hair
soon comes off.
About a mile below the encampment, where the sandy
plain narrowed and sloped down to a low-lying grassy valley,
a singular phenomenon presented itself. The morning after
our arrival, when going out to look for the horses, a furi-
ous easterly gale whirled the dust aloft in dense clouds,
and, to my great surprise, the sand, which was driven
into our faces, was as hot as when the fire so nearly en-
circled us. Almost blinded in forcing our way through this
curtain of driving sand, we rode right into a hollow, where
the earth appeared to be on fire ; as the horses plunged
throuofh the heated surface the hair was burnt off their fet-
locks, and they were nearly maddened with fright, so that
it was a difficult feat for the riders without saddles or
stirrups to keep their seats. Once I was somewhere near
my horse's ears, but, more by good luck than good manage-
ment, just escaped being thrown as it were into the fire.
After the gale had partially moderated, I proceeded to
inspect this place, and found that, although not, as I at first
thought, absolutely on fire, the ground was sa:oking as if
from internal combustion. The surface presented a crust of
baked yellow clay, which, yielding to the horses' feet, dis-
Ch. viil] the buening ground. 253
closed a black subsoil ; there was no flame, but a tliin white
vapour issued from the ground. When I incautiously ven-
tured a step on the treacherous crust it gave way, but I
managed to extricate myself with no further damage than
burning my potro boots. The Indians stated that the fire
had been originally caused some years previously by their
having kindled the pasture higher up the valley, and that
the ground had been burning ever since. It was impossible
to discover whether there was any subjacent bed of com-
bustible matter which might thus have been ignited ; but,
as there are hot wells and springs in the same range not
many miles distant to the south-east, it seems more probably
due to volcanic agency. The principal hot spring was de-
scribed as a circular basin of about six feet in diameter, the
water, of a temperature not so hot as to scald the hand,
bubbling up through numerous holes in a clay bottom. In
many of the surrounding hills there are lava and pumice of
not extremely ancient formation ; some of the hills have also
an appearance of having been at a recent period the outlets
of eruptive forces, which have scattered large shattered
masses of rock over the sides of the extinct craters.
In this encampment I had a serious misunderstanding
with our chief, which all but ended in a downright quarrel ;
but' after consideration we agreed to make it up, as although
on two occasions of danger he had left me to my fate, I
thought it better on the whole to keep friends for the present.
The evening of this quarrel, as a party of three toldos were
starting oif to go to the Chupat, and Casimiro was desirous
of extending his fame to the Welsh settlement, I wrote a
letter to the authorities enquiring about some saddles, part
of his Argentine rations sent thither by mistake, which the
chief declared to have been intended for him, but which had
been distributed amongst other Indians. The letter was
forwarded by one of the Indians who was supposed to be of
English parentage on one side, although he showed but
little traces of English blood in his type, with the exception
perhaps of his hair, which was of a lighter colour than that
usually met with : he was a very good-natured fellow, and I
254 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
regretted liis departure, as lie was one of my adherents, but
being a man of very sober habits he did not wish to be mixed
lip in the universal orgie which would probably take place
on arriving in the vicinity of Patagones. With this party
the young widow who had made overtures of marriage to
me also departed, after an aiiectionate farewell, and receiv-
ing a handkerchief as a remembrance. The following morn-
ing we also started, and one of the universal loafers who had
gambled his property away, asking for a mount, was told to
catch the ' white horse ' presented by Orkeke : he accord-
ingly borrowed a horse to catch him, and at the end of our
day's journey had not succeeded in doing more than driving
him in, to use a nautical term, in our wake ; this was
exactly what I had intended, as this Indian was a great
rogue, and had cheated me at cards out of a set of metal
bolas, equivalent to a horse.
Our march lay up the valley, and the circle was formed on
the surrounding volcanic hills, the sides of which, besides the
vesicular lava, presented large masses of the ironstone noted
as having been observed at Santa Cruz. Shrubs were sparsely
scattered on these hills, and game was exceedingly scarce.
Towards evening we encamped on the borders of a stream
in a place called by the Indians Telck. There the sickness
broke out afresh in its worst form, and several children died, in
consequence of which a quantity of mares and horses were
slaughtered, and numbers of ponchos, ornaments, and other
property burnt by the parents in their grief. It was most dis-
tressing to see and hear the melancholy manifestations of
soiTOw, and the sound alone of that dreadful crying aloud, and
the dismal ' uUagoning,' to use the Irish expression, of the old
women, haunted me even in my sleep. The night of our
arrival a mock combat with the Gualichu took place, in which
everybody joined. After dark, when many were sitting by
the firesides conversing, and I myself was reclining on my
bed smoking, the Doctor came into the toldo, and commu-
nicated with the chief, who told all to get their arms ready,
and loaded his gun : on a shout being set up all fires were
immediately extinguished, and all commenced firing off guns.
Ch. VIII.] FIGHTING THE GUALICHU. 255
clasliing their swords, and beating tlie backs of tlie toldos,
and yelling ' kow-w ! ' at each blow ; firebrands being, at the
same time, thrown into the air by the women, with clamor-
ous shouts and cries. The scene was wild and striking, the
darkness of the night being only illuminated by the flashes
of the guns or the sparks from the brands whirled high into
the air. At a given signal all stopped simultaneously, and
for two or three minutes the camp remained in perfect dark-
ness, after which the fires were relighted, and things re-
sumed their ordinary aspect.
The following day, strange to say, a real fight took place,
in which one man was wounded, and for a few minutes a
general melee or free fight appeared imminent. Parties were
already forming to cancel old blood feuds, when further mis-
chief was checked by the return of Hinchel, myself, and
others. We had been absent trying new horses on the race-
course, which, as in almost all the camping-gronnds since
leaving the Rio Sengel, was a regular beaten level track of
about a couple of miles in length, and my new horse had
established his fame as a racer by winniiig a match over a
distance of a mile-and-a-half ; meanwhile the cjuarrel broke
out — such are the uncertainties of Indian life.
We remained some days in this place, and whilst hunting
in the surrounding country (where hares abounded), we
observed a new description of spinous shrub with small ovate
leaves and yellow flowers, resembling holly, and growing to
about two feet in height. Casimiro and myself agreed to
try whether the leaves might not be medicinal, so a quantity
were bruised and boiled : the infusion proved exceedingly
bitter, reminding me of quinine, and acted as an admirable
sudorific, being administered to the invalids with great suc-
cess. In one of our excursions we had crossed the hills and
descended on a high elevated plain, concluding our hunt
near a swelling eminence exactly resembling a huge ' barrow '
thickly overgrown with shrubs, from which what appeared
to be a salina was espied, to our great delight. Hinchel and
myself being alone, and having a fat ostrich to discuss for
dinner,determined to enjoy our meal by its shore, first testing
256 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
tlie quality of tlie salt, a luxury wliicli we liad long been des-
titute of. Dismounting, we proceeded to investigate it ; but
to our great disappointment, after walking over every part of
it, and digging down with knives a foot below the surface,
the supposed salt proved to be bitter and nauseous nitrate of
soda.
After quitting the vicinity of the Cordillera the weather
had every day become warmer, and the frosts at night much
lighter : indeed whilst in Telck some warm days were ex-
perienced, although the winter season was fast approaching.
Near this encampment the small edible root previously de-
scribed as growing in the diied-up lagoons was found in
abundance, and was collected by the women and children.
Cavies were plentiful in the hollows and valleys in the
neighbouring hills, and even close to the encampment, but
the chase of other game proved difficult, the hill sides being
so strewn with stones as to render galloping a horse a cer-
tainty of laming him. In this neighbourhood Hinchel pointed
out a detached pinnacle of rock, much resembling that noticed
at Geylum, and according to custom invoked a blessing
from the guardian spirit ; and then he informed me that on
the third next march we should pass a deposit of yellow ore,
lying to the south of the route, and that during the hunt he
would show it to me. Orkeke also corroborated this state-
ment, and I have every reason to believe that there is in that
locality a deposit of iron or more probably copper ore.
As the meat of the slain horses was nearly consumed, we
marched the following day across a most stony, rocky, and
inhospitable country, and at length arrived at a range of
hills, through which ran a steep, nan-ow gorge. Descending
through its tortuous windings, we at length ai'rived at a
spring, the waters of which, joining with another small rivulet,
flowed out and formed a sort of marsh at the head of a large
plain. From the slope of the hill bordering the ravine a fine
panorama extended to the east, the entire face of the country
appeai'ing to be more uniformly undulating than the confused
ranges of hills, through the intricacies of which we had been
marching and hunting since leaving Geylum. In the fore-
Cii. VIII.] THE DOCTOR COMES TO GRIEF. 257
ground were visible distant black figures, moving witb swift-
ness across the plain in pursuit of numerous ostriches ; and
away to the eastward rose a column of smoke, the cause of
which was eagerly speculated on.
I am conscious that the description of this part of the
journey is not likely to give a very clear idea of the country *
traversed ; and that the directions of the successive ranges,
and the general character of the ground, are left too much
to the reader's imagination ; but, in deprecation of criticism
and censure, it is pleaded that I was under the impression
that this district had been traversed, and accurately sur-
veyed and described, by a savant employed by the Argentine
Government ; and that I was deprived of the assistance of
my compass, which had been presented to Foyel. The notes
taken at the time were very scanty, and my recollections
were confused, inasmuch as I was labouring under a con-
stantly-recurring attack of sickness, which was only kept at
bay by resolute endeavours not to give way ; but which ren-
dered observation and record, in addition to hunting and the
usual toils of marching, impossible. It was the more needful
for me to endeavour to keep up, as all were more or less ill,
and becoming increasingly gloomy and dispirited. To add
^^0 the troubles which weighed down the Indians' spirits at
this place, the doctor's horse fell while descending a precipi-
tous rocky hill. The unfortunate physician was stunned,
and very nearly crushed to death by the horse falling on
him ; great grief was universally expressed at this catas-
trophe, as no one was left to cure the invalids and contend
with the malignant Gualichu, who it was natural for the
Indians to imagine had laid a trap for his opponent, and
upset the medicine man's steed in order to have the field
clear for himself.
We encamped in a sort of morass by the side of the hills
overlooking the plain, and were woke at daylight by the
chattering of a flock of blue and orange parroquets ; these
birds, Avhich brought back old pleasant associations of the
banks of the Parana, and almost seemed to be harbingers of
civilised life, were numerous in this locality, though they
258 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
were tlie first of tlie species that I liad observed in tlie
country.
The distant signal smoke was concluded to indicate the
presence of Jackechan and the Pampa Indians under Tene-
foro, and all were in spirits at the prospect of obtaining
news, and perhaps luxuries in the shape of flour, yerba, &c.,
from Patagones. The order was accordingly given to march,
and a large answering signal fire kindled in some dry pas-
ture bordering the hill side, a messenger being at the same
time despatched to ascertain the news. After a rather long
march over a barren plain strewn with angular masses of
chalcedony and projecting rocks resembling alabaster, we
arrived at a dreary encampment, sheltered under a bank,
from which a spring gushed out, forming a refreshing
rivulet.
The mutiny of my page had compelled me to enjoy the
pleasure of driving my own cattle, following the track in
advance of the other people ; besides this, an attack of fever
rendered me indisposed, and, indeed, incapable of hunting.
While languidly jogging on in the centre of the circle which
was made on both sides of the tracks, and anathematizing
one of the horses who would every now and then endeavour
to join the hunt on his own account, I observed an ostrich
coming straight towards me : the sight was reviving, and
leaving the horses to themselves, I galloped to the cover of
a friendly bush, and when he was within a short distance
dashed out, and discharging the bolas, had the satisfaction
of seeing him turn a somersault and lie with outstretched
wings stunned. An Indian riding up at the time claimed the
customary division, and took charge of the bird, on which
we regaled our friends at the close of the hunt. Many of the
hunters came in em23ty-handed, or with only a skunk, of
which there were numbers in this vicinity, hanging to their
saddles. By this time the armadillos had taken up their
winter quarters under ground, and only came out of their
burrows on a remarkably sunny day.
At night we encamped under a barranca or steep rising
to the eastward. On his arrival Hinchel informed me that
Ch. VIII.] INTELLIGENCE FROM PATAGONES. 259
we had passed the vein of ore previously spoken of, and the
hot springs, the Indians having shortened the journey by
deviating from the usual line of march.
The chasqui returned late at night with intelligence that
the smoke had been caused by a party of Pampas Indians
travelling to join Quintuhual, or, at any rate, in that direc- .
tion, but whatever provisions or tobacco they had they kept
to themselves, and had purposely avoided us. Jackechan
and Teneforo had started for Valchita en route for Pata-
gones, after waiting for our coming more than a month in
Margensho, the place appointed as a rendezvous. Whilst
there they had received liquor and other luxuries from Pata-
gones, but no disturbances had ensued, the only casualty
being that a woman had been severely burned by falling into
a fire whilst in a state of intoxication. All was reported to
be peaceable at Patagones, and a rumour was current that
Commandante Murga was about to give up his governorship.
Casimiro, on receiving all this intelligence, immediately
wished a despatch to be indited, although I pointed out to
him that it would be better to wait until we had arrived at a
nearer point ; he was so urgent that on the following morning
I composed an elaborate letter, detailing the union of the
tribes, the precautions taken for protecting Patagones, and
requesting a hundred mares for Casimiro and his people :
when finished it was carefully wrapped up and stowed away
in my baggage till wanted.
The talk then naturally turned on the subject of the choice
of messengers to be despatched to Patagones on our arrival
at Margensho. It had been previously arranged that I
should be sent fully commissioned, as being better able to
represent to the authorities what had been resolved on, as well
as to impress vipon them the immediate requirements of the In-
dians, and several others now volunteered to accompany me,
and got quite merry at the thoughts of a drink. But we were
still three marches distant from Margensho. The following
day we were again en route, traversing a succession of plains
with rocky ridges cropping up at intervals, until we at
length reached a grassy valley enclosed by steep walls of
S 2
260 AT HOME "WITH. THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
rocks sixty feet high ; gravely perched on the summits of
which several slate- coloured Chilian eagles Avere visible,
their occupation being to prevent the excessive multiplica-
tion of little cavies. On the hill sides bordering this vallej',
our old friend the incense bush, which had for many marches
back been very scarce, grew in luxuriant profusion. At this
season it was covered with berries which, though uneatable,
are used by the Indians mixed up with water as a drink ;
this infusion has a very sweet taste, but I should think
must be very unwholesome. On aiTiving at the encamp-
ment, at the head of the valley, near some pools of standing
water, we were apprised, by the lugubrious sounds of the
women's monotonous chants, that the number of the children
liad been further diminished by sevei'al deaths. One of this
day's victims to the epidemic being Algo, Tankelow's
youngest daughter, the father was in great distress and
anger, as he attributed the death not to the distemper, but to
witchcraft.
The warm and tolerably fine weather experienced since
our departure from Telck had been succeeded by a heavy,
murky, still atmosphere, and the clouded sky promised a
downfall of rain, which speedily came. The next day more
children and the old deaf and dumb woman died ; over her
little moan was made, but the lamentations over the chil-
dren were terrible to hear, and on all sides mares were
slaughtered. The abundance of meat, and the general con-
fusion, combined Avith the rain to defeat Casimiro's anxious
desire to proceed. The accumulation of miseries had ren-
dered all the Indians gloomy and ill-humoured ; and since
our departure from Geylum we had had ample experience of
the wretched side of Pampa life.
This district is always dreaded by the Indians, who assert
that they invariably are attacked by a similar sickness when
in it, notwithstanding that some considered it to have been
occasioned by poison or deleterious drugs administered by
our late neighbours. The marches had therefore been forced
and prolonged, and the increased fatigue had doubtless aided
the distemper in its fatal effects. Nearly half the children
Cn. VIII.J MISERIES OF PAMPA LIFE. 261
and several of the elder people died during our progress to
Margensho, and the utter misery and discomfort cannot be
described. The rain had continuallj drenched us ; the
women, distracted with their endeavours to soothe the sick
children and their grief over the dead, could not attend to
their domestic duties ; our mantles were unmended, and *
proved but a poor shelter from the rain, no small misery in
this climate, and the arrangements of the toldos were utterly
devoid of their customary care and comfort. The usual good
temper and cheerfulness of all had fled, and grief, sickness,
and angry suspicion cast a gloom over every countenance.
One miseiy, starvation, had certainly been avoided by the
abundance of horse-flesh, but it can easily be imagined that
we could have borne hunger better. We had endured cold,
and hunger, and fatigue, as well as danger, before, but
nothing has left so indelible an impression of a thoroughly
bad time as that march from Geylum to Margensho.
At last Casimiro issued orders to march, and with two or
three more of us started in advance. While waiting imder
the shelter of a mass of rocks for the remainder to overtake
us, I fell asleep, and on waking up found the rain pourino-
down in torrents, and the chief just directing Mena to return
and see what the women were about. Our page arrived a
little later to say that the Indians had refused to march, the
occupants of our toldo alone being on their way to join us :
these soon appeared, so we proceeded in the storm, havmg
agreed that to return, after having once started, would be
an ignominious proceeding.
We followed for some distance the valle}^, or rather the
plain, into which it had opened out, and then ascended some
abrupt rocky heights at its eastern extremity ; crossing these
hills, in the valleys or ravines of which incense bushes grew
almost like a forest, we halted for a time by the side of a
rivulet flowing from a spring on the hill side.
After kindling a fire to warm our bodies, wet as we were
and chilled by the wind, which, originally west, now blew
from the south with cutting violence, the sight of numerous
guanaco on the heights above determined us to encircle a
262 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
herd; we accordingly mounted the heights, and having-
completely failed in onr attempt, descended to the other
side. A large lagoon lay at our feet, and away to the east a
succession of plains extended to the encampment called
Margensho.
These plains were bounded for a short distance on the
north side by a range of hills, which came to an abrupt
termination at the end of the lagoon, on the south side by
another range gradually sloping to the eastward, and on the
western side by the rocky heights we were descending. The
view would have been enjoyable on a fine day, but in such a
Patagonian tempest of rain and wind, landscapes were by no
means appreciated. Near the lagoon was another herd of
guanaco, some three thousand strong, who tempted ns to a
vain endeavour to encircle them, but they descried us before
we could approach within a mile, and were soon lost to sight
on the plains leading towards Margensho. Whilst riding
down the edge of the hills Casimiro pointed out some thyme,
a little of which we gathered to flavour our soup with in the
evening. We then descended and sheltered under the over-
hanging bank of a dry watercourse leading to the lagoon.
The women and remainder of the cavalcade shortly arrived,
and loading my page with firewood, to his intense disgust and
the extreme delight of every one else, we proceeded a little
farther to the south, where the pasture was good, and estab-
lished ourselves for the night.
The following morning early we all started to hunt, and
were more successful than on the previous day, though the
wind was blowing a fearful gale from the S.W., with oc-
casional storms of sleet. Towards the afternoon, by which
time, having finished our hunting, we were snug enough
under the toldo, it rained hard, and with the rain the Indians
commenced to arrive, till before dusk a town of toldos
occupied the borders of the hills.
Casimiro this evening sent for volunteers to go in with me
as messengers or chasquis to Patagones, on our arrival at
Margensho, now but one march distant. But of those pre-
viously so desirous to go on, not one appeared, nor would any
Ch. viil] doctor and sick child. 263
one Indian consent to lend liis horses for so long a journey.
The chieftain was sadly pnt out, and cursed the caciquillos
all round. He then tried to dissuade me from going myself,
saying that it was a great distance, that the desert or travesia
was a fearful place, that I should probably lose my horses,
that many people had starved, at the same time wishing me
to lend my horses to some other Indian. He narrated how
he himself had occupied twelve days in crossing it, and had
been obliged to abandon a horse and the saddle and gear of
his remaining steed, and with difficulty, nearly starved, on
foot, and driving his almost worn out horse before him, had
made his way to a station.
At the same time a young Indian started to cross the
desert, but lost his way, and, quoth the Cacique impressively,
* His bones are there now.'
One statement, that the chahals or white thorns grew
higher than the horses' heads and tore the unlucky riders'
mantles to pieces as they forced their way through them, my
own after experience fully verified. I, however, adhered
firmlj to my original intention of going, as agreed to by
him, and conveying, with my own hand, the letter I had
written : and it was finally settled that Meiia, Nacho, and I
should, on arriving at Margensho, start on our journey as
chasquis. Casimiro's real motive for dissuading me was
distrust, as we had on two or three occasions disagreed, and
once nearly come to blo^vs ; he was therefore afraid that I
should, on arriving at Patagones, work against his interests
and give him a bad character. Meiia, who had taken a
great fancy to me, volunteered for the purpose of keeping an
eye on Nacho, who was my ' bete noire ' and not to be trusted.
These arrangements having been brought to a satisfactory
conclusion, we proceeded to the toldo of a friend and assisted
at the ceremony performed by the doctor of curing a sick
child, more especially concerning the part of painting with
red ochre, killing, and eating a white mare»
On this occasion the parents formally invited the principal
chiefs and their relations and friends, and the ceremony com-
menced as follows : — All the men were either sitting or
264 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
standing in a circle, in tlie centre of wliich sat the mother
holding her infant in her arms. The doctor then came in,
and under his direction the mother plastered the infant from
head to foot with white clay, the wizard meanwhile muttering
incantations; when this was completed the doctor disappeared
for a minute or two, returning with an ornamented hide bag
in his hand ; this he opened, and produced from the bottom
some charms carefully enveloped in rags, which he, after
performing some mystic hocus-pocus, returned to the bag.
He next took the baby from the mother, and patting it gently
on the head, and muttering in a low tone, dipped its head
into the bag two or tliree times, and then returned it to its
mother. A white mare was brought up and, after being
daubed all over with hand-marks of red ochre, was knocked
on the head, cooked, and eaten on the spot, the heart, liver,
and lungs being hung on a lance, to the top of which was
suspended the bag containing the charms. Care was taken,
as in other ceremonies, that no dogs approached to eat the
offal, which was buried, the head and backbone being re-
moved to a neighbouring hill.
On the 9th of May we started, arriving the same evening
at Margensho, which was, as the Indians had previously de-
scribed it to me, a large grassy plain lying below a step or
barranca, and watered by a brook running N.E. and S.W.
During the hunt over the previously described plains there
was nothing remarkable except the extreme scarcity of game,
skunks alone being numerous ; fortunately I killed a male
guanaco, and as I had the previous day corrected my iDage
he brought up the horses most carefully, so that all was in
readiness for an early start. Before sundown the chiefs
were collected, and the contents of the letter read to them;
they all appeared pleased, and after adding a postscript set-
ting forth the names and number of the chiefs who required
rations I closed the correspondence.
Hinchel came and provided me with tobacco, asking as a
favour that if any of his friends in the settlement should en-
quire if he got drunk when occasio]T offered in the Pampas,
I would bear witness to his sobriety ; he also entreated
Ch. VIII.] DUTIES OF THE C1IASQUI3. 265
•".hat I would eitlier return to the Indians or remain in Pata-
gones until lie arrived, wliicli latter I promised to do.
At the risk of repetition it must be said this man was the
best Tehuelche, excepting perhaps Waki, I ever had an)--
thing to do with ; he was frank, honest, generous, sober, and
in every way fit for a chief; a ready and skilled workman
in all Indian trades from breaking a colt to constructing a
saddle or silver necklace; his only vice being gambling, but
for which last habit he would have been the richest and most
powerful chief, as he was universally respected.
Orkeke also sent for me, and put into my hand a packet of
tobacco for the journey, which he assured me would be long,
tedious, and dangerous. I promised to ask particularly for
his ration, and if the Government would not grant it, to
make him a present myself. He wished me to return, but I
pointed out to him. that for various reasons it would be
better not, so we parted, agreeing to meet in Patagones.
It may be as weU to mention that if the post of chasqui
or herald, as he may be styled, be an honourable one, for
which as a rule only the near relatives of chiefs are em-
ployed, the duties are sufficiently hard. The chasqui is
expected to ride like ' young Lochinvar,' as fast and as far
each day as the horse will carry him ; he must not turn
aside or halt even for the purpose of hunting, and unless an
ostrich or other game cross his path may have to go without
supper after his day's fifty or sixty miles' journey, while his
bed and bedding are the ground and mantle. Of course en-
durance, sobriety, and reliable steadiness of purpose are
essential qualifications, especially if the distance to be
travelled over be great. And Nacho had always approved
himself an excellent chasqui, and was an unerring guide
even across the trackless travesia.
When the chasqui falls in with other Indians on the
march, or an encampment, he is ceremoniously received and
honourably entertained, and it is usually expected that in
case of need he will be supplied with fresh horses to prose-
cute his mission.
The following morning at daylight another consultation
266 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. [Ch. VIII.
took place, and tlie letter had to be again produced, and
another postscriptum added. I then took down in my note-
book the immediate requirements of Casimiro and other
friends, which, according to agreement, were to be sent back
by Meha and Nacho, myself remaining in the settlement
until the arrival of Casimiro, when we were to proceed to-
gether to Buenos Ay res either by land via Bahia Blanc a, or
by steamer.
At about eight o'clock, when the rime of the frost was
just cleared off the grass, we, after bidding adieu to all
friends, caught our horses and started. I took with me only
my suit of clothes in a bag, and the letters. Each of the
party was provided with a piece of meat from the guanaco
I had slain the previous day by way of provision, and with
two horses apiece we were at length en route, the old women
chanting melodiously to keep the devil out of our way. My
page affected great distress at my departure, but as he had
my remaining horses to take charge of, and a legacy of a
mantle I had no particular use for, having worn it almost
without interruption since leaving Santa Cruz, he was, in all
probability, delighted to see, as he thought, the last of me
as we disappeared over the ridge.
We travelled slowly for the first half hour, and had just
released our spare horses from the lazos, which hitherto had
restrained them from rejoining their fellows, when we heard
a shout behind us, and an Indian appeared driving a trooj)
of horses. He was from the encampment, and being a Pampa
was en route to join his tribe, whom he expected to meet
somewhere about Valchita, five days' journey on, and from
whom we were to get fresh horses wherewith to cross the
travesia to the settlements. This addition to our party was
unexpected, but we considered the more the merrier, and
three at any rate is an awkward iiumber to travel sociably
together. Putting our horses to a hand canter, we now
regularly started, leaving care behind, and looking forward
to bread, coffee, and other long untasted good things. We
passed the time in talking over what we would get, how we
should be received, and in smoking and singing. Our route
Cii. YIII.] TRAVELLING EXPEESS. 267
lay along- tlie barranca, whicli clianged as we proceeded in a
N.E. direction, to higher rugg-ed hills inters^Dersed with sandy-
valleys covered with scrub and incense bushes.
By nightfall we had arrived at a pointed hill, under the
brow of which we encamped. We had seen plenty of ostrich
and guanaco, but had not delayed to hunt, only pausing to
pick up an armadillo that happened to be basking in our
road.
On dismounting we secured all the horses with lazos or
maneos, as they might probably be inclined to stray away.
After gathering a little firewood, kindling a fire, and dis-
cussing the armadillo and a small piece of meat each, we
wrapped ourselves in our mantles and lay down to sleep,
every now and again during the night getting up to have a
look at the horses. The morning star was shining brightly
above the horizon when we saddled up, and crossing the
brow of the hill mounted to an adjoining pampa, where the
rocky natui'e of the ground obliged our unshod horses to go
at a foot pace. Added to this a bitter cold wind and small
driving rain were not improving to the temper, until after an
hour or two of difiicult and slow travelling, the sun rose
magnificently and dispelled the mists and drizzle, and re-
stored our cheerfulness. We at length descended into u
ravine leading to a series of small valleys, containing here
and there i)Oiicls covered with teal and other water birds.
We travelled at a gallop through the same description of
country till 5 p.m., when, after passing a high barren plateau,
similar to that encountered at starting, we suddenly came to
an abrupt declivity, at the bottom of which, in a plain ex-
tending for about five miles, lay a large salina.
We descended where it was feasible, and after stopping to
get a little salt, j)roceeded to encamp near a small spring of
fresh water. About a mile to the eastward large herds of
guanaco and several ostrich were visible in the plain, and
near our halting place we found the tracks of a puma, for
which we searched diligently, but without success.
After securing our horses, as on the previous night, we
dined, minus armadillo, off a piece of scraggy meat, and
268 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. YIII.
turned in. The salt from tlie salina was of excellent quality;
it was necessary to remove a little of the upper surface,
which had slightly deteriorated by exposure to the atmo-
sphere, and then we cut out cakes of salt like pieces of ice,
which served for jjlates. It is a strange fact that both into
this and other salinas small rivulets of fresh water flowed,
fed by springs in the neighbouring hills.
The next morning (if it could be so called) at the same
hour we were in the saddle, and traversing the plain crossed
some ridges of moderate height, and continued passing
through a tract of country thickly wooded with incense and
other bushes. About 2 p.m. we arrived at a rivulet of watei-,
near which were marks of a recent encampment ; after ex-
amining these we came to the conclusion that a week had
perhaps elapsed since the occupants had left. We travelled
forward at our utmost speed over ground of much the same
description, diversified now and again by ranges of low hills,
putting up occasionally a partridge, of which birds we observed
two different species, one crested, and nearly as large as a
hen pheasant, and the other smaller than an English bird,
and which took only short flights and then cowered — and
were fortunate enough to kill a conpL\ The sun went down
behind some hills, and still we found no suitable place to
halt in ; at last, however, we came to some ponds of water,
where we all, being pretty well tired, dismounted, and
tethering two of the horses allowed the remainder to go
loose. We found the water brackish, though drinkable, but
the animals would scarcely touch it, and Wiindered about,
necessitating a watch on them all night; this was rather
weary work, especially as a sharp frost came on, and with all
our care, at starting time two horses were missing. After a
search of an hour they were found, having wandered in
search of better water, and, wiser than ourselves, found out
a spring about two miles to the east.
The sun was up before we got away, after warming and
eating the last of our food, which we had cooked overnight :
it was dry and dusty, and all the washing in the world could
not have got the grit out of it ; however, we laughed over
Ch. VIII.] AN IDEAL BANDIT. 269
it, saying we would soon have a bottle of wine to wasli away
the dirt from our throats. One thing- we congratulated our-
selves on was being well provided with tobacco, and although
we boasted no pipe, mine having been lost at a previous
encampment, Casimiro's correspondence with Foyel and
Cheoeque, which I had carefully kept, provided us with
cigarette papers. We rode on accordingly, rejoicing, and'
passing out of this wooded country traversed a succession of
high pampas, set with small blocks of granite exactly re-
sembling paving stones, and placed as thickly and regularly
as if paviors had been at work. The appearance of a
London street undergoing repair brought this singular
formation vividly to my mind. These pampas terminated in
waterworn cliifs thickly strewn with stones, and as our horses
scrambled like cats up the slopes, their hoofs sent the stones
claitering down, and they found it hard to keep their footing.
At the foot of the cliflPs were watered valleys, and whilst
descending into one of these valleys I noticed for the first
time the algarroba thorn, which was in fruit. There were
two sorts, one with black fruit, which Nacho warned me not
to touch, as it was poisonous, the other bearing yellow pods,
which though somewhat dry, as the season was so advanced,
we plucked and ate as we rode along, the taste proving some-
thing between tamarinds and Deach.
Near a lagoon in one of these valleys Ave halted for a few
minutes, and on pursuing our journey espied a horseman with
a troop of led horses approaching from the opposite side. I
had halted for a moment and saw my companions rein up, and
racing up to know the cause, observed him. When within
200 or 300 yards, all halted ; and Nacho rode forward, and
ceremonious explanations ensued, followed by formal intro-
ductions. He was a Pampa Indian outward bound to join
those mentioned as having passed us eastward of Margen-
sho ; he gave us news that Jackechan's, Teneforo's, and other
Indians were in a place called Trinita, some four hours'
gallop only distant. When he found that I was ' Anglish,'
he spoke in high praise of my countrymen whom he had met
in Eio Negro.
270 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
This man was a perfect picture ; lie was splendidly mounted,
and had a troop of horses all as good as the one he bestrode.
He was well dressed in ponchos and white drawers, and wore
a silk handkerchief round his head. Over his saddle was a
poncho containing, as we supposed, a store of yerba, flour, or
other luxuries, and he had a bold, careless, good-humoured
face, with restless eyes ; altogether he gave one an idea of
the imagiiiary generous bandits one reads of in novels, and
to make the character complete it turned out afterwards
that he had almost certainly stolen the horses from Trinita.
After five minutes' conversation we started in opposite
directions, and our party pressed on at speed. From the
steep hill above the valley we saw, to our joy, the smoke of
hunting parties, apparently not far off. However, it was
four o'clock when we arrived in the vicinity of the fires in a
green pastured valley. From one of the two toldos pitched
there, a man emerged with a mate pot in his hand and a
bombilia or reed used for imbibing mate, like straws for
sherry cobblers, in his mouth. As these peoj^le proved not to
be the Indians we wanted, after saluting him we galloped on,
and crossing the valley, where we had to jump our horses
over a brook, ascended the opposite hill. A new growth of
bush growing 16 feet high, with long switches like osiers,
forced itself unpleasantly on our attention, as, when riding
fast, they sprang back into one's face in the most painfully
annoying manner. On the hillside we overtook and passed
a caravan of women travelling in the same direction as our-
selves, and from the summit of the range saw in the valley
below two different groups of thirty to forty toldos each,
about half a mile apart. Galloping on we arrived, about
5 P.M., at the nearest tolderia ; but on inquiring for Patricio,
to whom we had been directed to go by Casimiro, found that
he belonged to the others, to which we proceeded, and were
duly received, our horses, &c., taken care of, and ourselves
ushered with all ceremony into the presence of Patricio (a
half-bred Pampa and Tehuelche). After the hour's etiquette
of answering questions, we were each given one rib of a
guanaco apiece to eat. I was so hungry that I could have
Ch. VIII.] LETTER FKOM THE CHUPAT COLONY. 271
eaten a dozen at least, so on the plea of washing started off
to look for Jackechan's toldo, which I shortly found, and
was received with open arms by my friend and El Sourdo.
After his ' missus ' had given me some food, followed by the
luxury of a mate with sugar, Jackechan related his proceed-
ings subsequent to leaving our party.
After a few days' march in the direction of the Chupat, he/
came across some cattle, which were caught and killed, and
then, whilst in the same spot, he despatched the messenger
to Chupat with the letter, who returned in fifteen days with
an answer, but without any stores.
The letter, carefully wrapped in a piece of old linen which
had served as the envelope to my own epistle, was cere-
moniously handed to me by the light of a blaze produced by
some grease thrown upon the fire. I read and interpreted
the contents to Jackechan. The writer — Mr. Hughes, if I
recollect rightly— expressed his pleasure at hearing of my
safety, but regretted his inability to forward any stores or
clothing, as the supply in the colony was extremely scanty,
owing to the non-arrival of the ship with Mr. Lewis Jones
on board, which had been expected for some months. It
need scarcely be said that I had been quite unaware of the
privations endured by these unfortunate colonists, which the
despatches of Commander Dennistoun have made known to
the public during the preparation of these pages for the press,
and to which reference will be made in the ensuing chapter.
Jackechan, after the return of his messenger, proceeded to
Margensho, in the vicinity of which he met the parties
under Teneforo, Patricio, Antonio, and other petty chiefs.
These all united, and, sending into Patagones, obtained
liquor and other stores, witli which, as before mentioned,
they had a drink for ten days, but no quarrels or fights took
place — a fact which redounds to the credit of the chiefs.
After waiting a month for our party, they, owing to the
scarcity of game, had come by easy stages to this place
(Trinita). Jackechan then explained that the first toldos
were those of the Pampa Indians, under Teneforo and Cham-
payo, the former being absent in Patagones, getting his
272 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. VIII.
rations of animals ; his Indians are pure Pampas, and are
often called Kerekinches,' or armadillos, for some reason un-
known to me. Some of them are in the service of the
Argentine Government, and liable to be called upon by
Linares, chief of the Tame Indians. The remaining- tcldos
were those belonging to the Indians under Antonio and
Patricio, who were composed of mixed Tehuelches and
Pampas. The two encampments Avere situated about half a
mile apart, separated by a winding stream, in some places con-
cealed by most unusually high reeds. The position was entirely
surrounded on the eastern, southern, and western sides by
high rocky eminences ; but to the north the valley apparently
continued for some miles : its breadth was about three miles,
and everywhere in the vicinity of the stream, which in some
places had overflowed its banks and formed a marsh, the
most luxuriant pasture was growing.
On returning to Patricio's toldo, I formally asked for the
necessary horses to prosecute our journey, but was refused on
the grounds of his having none to spare ; so we determined,
as our horses showed symptoms of fatigue and one was lame,
to give them one day's rest before proceeding. We passed
the following day with our friends, and I made acquaintance
with the petty chief Champayo, for whom I wrote a letter
requesting a ration which was due to him. He was xery
civil, and presented an Indian to me named Luiz Aguirre.
This man had been brought up in Patagones, whence he had
received his names, his parents, I believe, having been
killed. He was a very intelligent man, and had formerly
been in the troop of Linares, but had left disgusted with the
quarrelling and generally mutinous state of those Indians,
and taken to the Pampa, where he could live a free and
happy life with his wife — at least so he affirmed.
After we had taken various mates together, Champayo, on
my mentioning the cause of oar not proceeding that day,
said, ' Your people shall not want for horses. I will supply
them, and send Luiz Aguirre in with yon, and you can give
him the answer a,bout my ration.' I afterwards visited, at
his own request, the Cacique Antonio, for whom I also wrote
' QuiniuiiKliu.
Ch. viu.] a mokning drink. 273
a letter requesting that his ration should be sent to him at
the Guardia of Sauce Blanco, as, owing to having lost his
troop of horses in a storm, he could scarcely reach the Upper
Guardia. This was true, as at the first toldos we had visited
in the neighbouring valley in Trinita we had been informed
of Antonio's loss, which was most probably a gain to our
well-dressed bandit friend; but he had some enemies on the
road to Patagones, which was the real reason of his not going
as far as the Upper Guardia.
After dinner, having asked me all about our proceedings,
he commenced to give me advice as to what I should do on
arriving at Patagones. He assured me that I should get
employment readily, but especially cautioned me against
drink, as the commandante disliked drunkards, and would
not encourage them !
At a late hour I retired to Patricio's toldo, and coiled up
in one corner. The next morning we were getting our
horses ready for a start, when a boy galloped into camp with
the news that peojjle were coming in from Patagones.
Everybody at once mounted and went to escort in the new
arrivals, who proved to be Teneforo himself and two of his fol-
lowers. They had brought a hundred head of horses and cattle
as far as Valchita, two days' journey from Trinita, and had
left them there, bringing on with them only some liquor and
yerba, which were at once unloaded. After I had been pre-
sented to the newly-arrived chief, who hailed me as a
brother, and honoured me by a place among the four
caciques, who, pannikins in hand, walked round the lances in
due performance of the ceremony of blessing the liquor,
already described, the drinking commenced.
When the people arrived the sun had just risen, and by
10 o'clock most of the liquor, which consisted of some gin
and caha, or white rum, had disappeared. Many of the
Indians were intoxicated, but all after a merry, good-
tempered fashion, which it had never been my luck to see
before. After imbibing freely enough with my numerous
friends — who, if it had been left to them, would have made
me as drunk as themselves — I mounted my horse, and after
T
274 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
a bathe amongst tlie tall reeds on the borders of the stream,
returned to the toldo, where I found the aged Patricio sing-
ing to himself in a very maudlin state. By sundown all
were sober again, and Patricio imparted to me that he in-
tended himself to proceed with us, as well as some other
friends, his wife, and two or three other women, but that we
were to travel by the lower route, which, though longer, was
easier and safer than the shorter and upper road, where the
thorns grew higher and thicker : the latter is usually selected
in summer, when water is scarce, of which at this season there
was no danger.
The following morning, bidding adieu to Antonio, Cham-
payo, and Jackechan — whose ration I had promised to pro-
cure— we started, eleven men and four women, taking plenty
of horses, besides a troop of mares for an Indian called
Hernandez, settled near the Guardia Chica, the mares being
intended for the purpose of treading out his crop of corn.
We were soon out of sight of the encampment at Trinita, and
proceeding at either a gallop or a trot through an undulating
country, in which incense, algarroba, and other shrubs
abounded, arrived near sunset at a stream, on the north side
of which we encamped, amongst some thick bushes. A little
distance to the west lay a large salina, from which, several
miles across, the place takes its name, being called Hitchin-
kaik, or Salt Hill. The stream, flows round one side of the
salina, and is, I think, the same that wq subsequently crossed
near Valchita. This time we travelled in great style, the
women having brought with them stores of horse-meat and
yerba.
After dinner we all sat round the fire and took a mate,
and some af an Indian sweetmeat, a yellow paste made from
the algarroba bean pounded and mixed with water. Old
Patricio, who had turned over a new leaf and grown quite
frisky after the drink, said that I was a fortunate man,
having a wife with me ; alluding to one of the wives of the
Cacique El Ingles, who was travelling with us to rejoin her
husband near Patagones.
The following morning at daylight we again started, and.
Ch. VIII.] VALCHITA. 275
travelling over mucli the same description of country as on
the previous day, arrived, about mid-day, at the place
where Teneforo had left his cattle. Here we dismounted
and refreshed ourselves off the round berries, about the size
of a turnix^-radish, the fruit of a small plant growing by
the margin of the water, which had a very pleasant taste.
The river here had a fringe of tussocks of pampa grass,
under which we reclined and smoked.
The cattle were grouped about amongst these tussocks, and
Golwin, Jackechan's son with the light hair, amused himself
by vain attempts to count them. After half an hour's dawdling
we proceeded, leaving behind one of Meiia's horses which
was done up, and, following more or less the line of the
river, we arrived, about 3 p.m., at the encampment of
Valchita. As it was early in the day, some of the party
started to hunt, but returned empty-handed. We filled up
the skins and water-bottles, in anticipation of entering the
travesia the following day ; and, after the usual meal and
mate, sought out each his own particular nest in the Pampa
grass, and went to sleep without fear of the horses straying
far, the pasture and water both being of the best quality.
As it was in this encampment that, according to Casimiro,
the defunct Mendoza had discovered gold, I prospected care-
fully for any signs, but only noticed that parts of the
adjoining pampa were strewn, amongst other pebbles, with
pieces of quartz. At the usual hour we started to commence
the ascent to the travesia, or desert, which rose above us
to the north, in a high plateau. On ascending a short
distance, we observed on our left hand (to the westward) a
salina of several leagues in length, which bordered the edge
of the travesia in about an east or west direction. I am
inclined to think that the river Valchita loses itself in this
salina. This river is subject to great floods, evidences of
which were visible in the drift weeds and rubbish clinging
to the bushes and shrubs throughout the valley, evidently
left there by the spring inundation. By a gradual ascent
we at length reached the level of the plateau, and saw before
us an interminable dreary expanse strewn with small shingle,
T 2
276 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
and covered with shrubs varying from four to twelve feet, or
even higher, and here and there small tufts of grass. No
signs of life were visible. The skv was bright and clear,
although clouds were gathering on the southern horizon,
and the wind (it nearly always blows in Patagonia) was
cutting. I remarked to Luiz Aguirre that it would possibly
rain ; his reply, ' I hope it will — it will be splendid, then all
the lagoons will be full,' told of the danger of drought, but
found no assent from me, having had enough of wet wea.ther
during the excursion to Las Manzanas. During the ride he
told me that he knew the difference between the Catholic
and Protestant religions, and of the two he preferred the
latter; he also asked me if I had ever been to China,
where the tea came from, and various other questions
evincing a considerable amount of information ; and wound
up by proposing that I should set up a trading establishment
near the Chupat ; Jackechan — who, if any one can claim it,
is the real lord of the soil — having volunteered to cede the
ground to me. In the event of establishing a store in that
neighbourhood, this astute Indian considered that all the
Indian trade would be taken out of the hands of the people
of Patagones, who notoriously used false weights, besides
charging exorbitantly for all articles supplied to the Indians.
About 2 P.M., as the rough shingle had ah-eady begun to
tell on our horses' feet, a halting place was found near a
laguna containing rain-water of the colour of cafe au lait.
The horses were for the present let loose, to pick up the best
meal they could off the stunted grass near the borders of the
lagoon. Before dark most of them were tethered, and a
careful watch kejot all night, lest they should return to
Valchita in search of pasture and water. After a lengthened
conversation by the fireside — in which I was informed that
the track we were travelling was called Pig's-road, from wild
pigs, or perhaps peccaries, having been killed near one of the
lagoons in the route — we wrapped ourselves in our mantles
and sheltered ourselves like hedgehogs under the bushes,
from time to time getting up to look round for the horses.
Next day we rode over the same interminable desert of
Ch. viil] wild hoeses. 277
stones, and buslies of the following descriptions : — Chanal
or whitethorn ; picaynn, furnishing the best firewood ; the
osier-like switches before described ; black bush, which is
useless for burning, owing to the pestiferous smell it emits ;
algarroba, incense, which are, however, very scarce ; and
some others whose names I was unable to procure. The ^
chanal is the only one that impedes the traveller's progress,
as the thorns are large and sharp. In the other road (more
to the west), which we had avoided, although the distance is
shorter across the travesia, and therefore more used by the
Tehuelches, who dread this crossing, especially in summer
or for small parties, the chanal grows to the height of ten to
fifteen feet, and, like the ' waitabit ' thorns in Albania,
renders fast riding impossible.
This day we were about to start hunting, when a demijohn
of rum was discovered in a bush. This put an end to the
sport, for, although it was hidden again in another place,
enough was taken out to render most of the party talkative,
a bottle or two also being reserved for discussion at the
camp fire.
At 4 P.M. we camped by the side of a lagoon similar to
the previous one, and, our Valchita water being finished,
diluted the rum with meal and water about the consistency
of Spanish chocolate. I forgot to state that in the excite-
ment of the 'find' the horses were not looked after, and on
mustering to proceed, one of Nacho's had disappeared, and,
although carefully searched for, he was not found again.
The next day, despite the dissipations over night, we were
in the saddle at daybreak, and had hardly traversed a league
of this wearisome waste when we came suddenly upon seven
wild horses. An effort made to surround them failed, owing
to the difficult nature of the ground; but the failure was
to me fully made up by the magnificent spectacle of these
splendid creatures careering in their untamed strength and
beauty across the plain.
We subsequently hunted and killed guanaco and ostrich,
and also saw some hares and partridges. At about 10 a.m.
our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the sea, and pre-
278 AT HOME WitH THE PATAGOi^IANS. [Ch. VIII.
sently the level plain rose into more undulating country,
and from the crests of the elevations at times a full view
of the inlet called the Laco de San Antonio presented
itself.
Smoke was visible ahead, and we accordingly pushed on,
and made a long and rapid march, the surface being here
altogether free from the small stones which had previously
caused so much damage to the horses' feet. That night we
halted, as usual, by the side of a lagoon, the water of which
was not more than two inches deep.
Patricio during this day's journey pointed out to me a dry
lagoon near which efforts had been made to sink a well for
obtaining a permanent supply of water, but, although the
shaft was of some depth, none had been reached, and the
work had been given up in despair. It is a mystery even to
the Indians where the guanacos, wild horses, puma, and
other game that exist in this desert, find water, as these
lagoons, depending entirely on the rainfall for a supply of
water, must inevitably, in this country where little rain falls,
be dry for many months in the year. ISTo doubt springs
exist in hitherto undiscovered places.
Before leaving the travesia, a few remarks, which cannot
claim to be called a description, may be interesting.
This desert consists of a plateau about three hundred feet
above the level of the valley of the E,io Negro, stretching to
the southward more than thirty leagues to Valchita. Of
its extent westward I have no precise information ; but it
narrows considerably in the interior, forming an irregular
triangle, with its base on the coast, and its apex near the
junction of the Rio Limay and the northern streams.
The soil is either clay or sand and gravel, with small
stones strewn thickly over the surface ; while the only vege-
tation met with consists of the bushes already mentioned,
and scanty tufts of coarse grass.
It is much dreaded by travellers, and, after traversing it,
I can well believe the stories cui'rent of people having perished
on the passage ; the track once lost would be very difficult
to regain ; while the want of water in the summer, and the
Ch. VIII.] LIMIT OF PATAGONIAN FAUNA AND FLORA. 279
danger of horses straying and leaving tlie traveller helpless,
are both probable risks. With all our watchfulness, two
horses strayed away and were lost. In the winter there is
no fear of want of water ; but the fatigue of travelling is at
all times great, and the horses are almost worn out by the
time that the desert is passed. It serves, therefore, as a
barrier, protecting Patagones from all danger of attack by
the Indians from the south, who in their forays must descend
the river. A large troop of horses can scarcely find pasture,
and, after the rapid journey, would not be in a condition for
their riders to attack with success, if opposed vigorously
by people able to defend themselves.
This district appeared to form a distinct and well-defined
limit between the habitats of various animals ; as for instance,
the Rhea Darwinii, or smaller ostrich of Patagonia, and the
Rhea Americana. The latter, according to my experience,
is never found to the south of it, and I am at a loss to under-
stand how Mr. Cunningham could have met with any speci-
mens of it, as he seems to imply.'
The Tehuelches often described the larger Rhea as found
north of the travesia, and as distinct from that hunted in
their country. They also particularly insisted on the fact
that the Gama, or deer — abundant in the Rio Negro valley
and the country north of it — is never met with south of the
travesia. The same remark is true of the Viscacha and the
Aguarra (Lupus manatus), though the latter is probably to
be met with in the spurs of the CordiUera.
Patagonia may thus be properly considered as cut off by the
Rio Negro and the line of the Cordillera, and possessing its
own races and a separate Fauna and Flora.
It may be added that only one species of armadillo, the
Quirquincho (Dasypus minutus. Gay), occurs within these
limits. The algarroba and other bushes, though found in
and near the borders of the travesia, do not occur south of
its immediate vicinity.
It was a joyful hour for all when, on the fourth day, after
' Natural History of the Straits of Magellan, p. 134.
.280 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
gallopiiJg from dawn till ten o'clock, we at length came in
sight of the vaUey, still three miles distant, where large
■willows — which, by the way, are unknown in Patagonia, save
a few at Chnpat, probably introduced by the settlers —
marked the winding course of the E,io Negro. We halted
at the head of an abra, or lateral opening which ran up
into the barranca from the main valley, and saw in the
distance a solitary rancho, the first civilised dwelling beheld
since my departure from Santa Cruz.
After a rest, to enable all to come up, some having lagged
behind perforce, their horses being hardly able to limp
along, we made our way down the slope and at length
reached the river, in which our thirsty steeds soon drank
their fill.
The rancho, which belonged to Hernandez, for whom the
convoy of mares was intended, was then visited. The owner
was absent, but his Indian wife did the honours, at least as
far as serving us with mate, for no food was produced,
though all were dreadfully hungry* I wished to stop and
don what an American would call my citizen's clothes,
thinking that we should immediately proceed to the Guardia
I had heard so much of from Luiz Aguirre ; but he told me
not to be in a hurry, so in my dirty mantle I remained for
the present.
After half an hour's delay we left the rancho and followed
the south bank of the river, which here was a swift stream
200 yards wide, passing the farm of Hernandez, where a man
was occupied in ploughing, and mares and cattle were grazing.
The river here made a bend towards the southern barranca,
which so nearly abutted on it as to compel us to ride close
along the bank. Small partridges got up frequently, and I
made a mental resolution to come and have a day's shooting
at a future period in the magnificent willows bordering the
river ; blue pigeons were cooing in the trees ; and through an
opening we caught a glimpse, on the opposite bank, of a
well-built, comfortable-looking estancia in the foreground
of a wide extent of rich flat land, with corral, galpones, and
the usual surroundings, which Luiz Aguirre informed me
Ch. VIII.j SAUCE BLAKCO. 281
belonged to Mr. Kiiicaid. The feeling- of having safely-
emerged from the desert into the settlements put us, though
very hungry, into the best of spirits ; and after a cheerful
half hour's ride, passing on our road a tumbledown,
unused rancho, we arrived at Sauce Blanco, or ' White
Willow;' there the river, sweeping to the northern side,
leaves a wide rincon, or expanse of rich alluvial ground. This
is considered as belonging to the Indians, some of whom
are always to be found encamped near the rancho, which
belonged to the Cacique El Ingles, and three toldos were
pitched in its vicinity.
We presented to the chief his wife, whom we had brought
with us, and I was warmly welcomed as a relative, the
cacique being a nephew of Quintuhual. This chief derives
his name from his alleged relationship to some one or other
of the ofl&cers of Fitzroy's surveying expedition, so that I
was doubly welcome in my English and Indian character.
Here we camped amongst the pajas, or pampa grass, and,
having been presented with a mare and some pumpkins,
soon had a good fire blazing and meat and pumpkins cooking ;
these latter being dressed by cutting them in halves, taking
out the seeds, and filling the interior with hot ashes, and then
placing them on the ashes, the result being, at all events as
it seemed then to my taste, delicious. I wished to proceed
direct to the Guardia, but, as Patricio and the others put it
off till the morrow, in my ignorance of the road and usages
of the place, I was forced to ' do at Rome as Rome does.'
A good wash in the river was one of the first things
indulged in, and the enjoyment of getting rid of several
days' accumulation of the dust and mud of the travesia can
be better imagined than described.
The following morning, before daylight, we all bathed in
the river, and after taking mate with the cacique El Ingles,
and a warm by the fireside after sleeping in the frosty night
air, we prepared to visit the Guardia. Casting off the Indian
mantle, I assumed the usual dress of an Englishman of the
period, shooting-coat, &c. ; and having been provided with
fresh horses by our friend, half an hour's gallop brought us to
282 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
tlie north bank, opposite the Guardia — not, however, without
misadventure, for as we made our way along the narrow un-
even horse-path, full of ruts, and hemmed in by Pampa grass,
Luiz Aguirre's horse stumbled and threw him, rolling over
him and crushing his revolver into his ribs.
The mean appearance of the much talked of Guardia at
once dispelled the ideas of it derived from the imaginative
descriptions of the Indians, but previous experience of
Spanish frontier towns saved me from disappointment. The
settlement consists of a small fort mounted with one gun,
a cuartel or barracks, and a few houses, one or two built of
brick and the others of adobe, clustering round the fort.
Almost, if not quite all, of these are ' pulperias,' or grog-
shops and stores, intended for trade with the Indians, for
whose transport a launch is kept. The usual object first seen
in frontier towns — an unfinished church — is here conspicuous
by its absence, no provision for spiritual wants being made
in the Guardia. After about half an hour's delay on the
bank, a bustle on the other side was observed, caused by
getting ready a large launch, which shortly crossed to our
side ; and having secured our horses with lazos and maneos,
we jumped in, and I was greeted by a non-commissioned
officer, who congratulated me on my arrival, stating that the
Commandante, Seiior Murga, had been expecting me for
some months. We crossed over in great pomp, a soldier
playing the cornet in the bows of the boat, and, landing, we
proceeded to a store kept by a man named Don Fermin,
where we were aU ushered into a room behind the shop, and
the Indians exposed their skins and plumes for trade. My
friend the non-commissioned ofiicer had left me, as I de-
clined to surrender my letters to any one but the Com-
mandante in person, and he was at the time at Patagones,
distant eighteen leagues from this Guardia. Meanwhile I
watched the trade going on between Don Fermin and the
Indians.
Now and again people came and contemplated us, as if we
were some strange sort of wild animals ; but as I was out of
the trading, no one bid the stranger welcome, and I formed
Ch. VIII.] SAN X^iVIEL. 283
a bad idea of the politeness of the inhabitants, though per-
haps nij shaggy hair and dress, not altogether of the neatest,
may have been against me.
The Indians were soon in full enjoyment of some grog and
biscuits, which they naturally asked me to share. After a bite
and a suj), finding the proceedings slow, I left the room, and
shortly after met Mr. Alexander Eraser and Mr. Grenfell, the
owners of an estancia a few miles lower down the river ; and
after introducing myself was most kindly received, and sup-
plied with cash, a civilised medium of which I had not a
sou to enable me to gratify the desire of treating my Indian
friends to a bottle or two of wine and spirits and a few
loaves of bread.
Mr. Eraser hospitably pressed me to come on to his esta-
blishment at once, but being desirous of handing the letters
to the Commandante without delay, I returned across the
river with the Indians.
A foretaste of Rio Negro manners was given us at the
other side, as one of the horses, saddle, lazo and all, was
missing — stolen by some of the civilised inhabitants. The
horse belonged to El Ingles, and had been lent to Mena to go
down from the encampment to the Guardia; the lazo be-
longed to me.
At the camp most of the people got more or less drunk,
and Nacho received a richly-deserved thrashing for being
pugnacious, after which he was lashed down, and left to cool
in the frost for an hour.
In the morning I started for Patagones, accompanied by
El Ingles and another Indian ; but as our horses proved to
be too tired to proceed into Patagones, we stopped for the
night in a toldo at San Xaviel, the head-quarters of Linares
and his Tame Indians.
I took up my quarters at the toldo of one Chaloupe, and
after supper, being desirous of communicating the political
arrangements to the chief, proceeded on horseback behind
another horseman, who proved to be a brother of Eouque
Pinto, to the chief's residence, a long low house.
After a little delay I was ushered into the Sala, where
284 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
the two wives of tlie cliief were sitting sewing. The usual
mate was served, and I waited long in vain for the chief, who
was away collecting his followers for an intended pursuit of
some of Calficura's Indians, who had recently driven off
cattle from the valley.
At last I bade good-night to my fair hostesses, and sum-
moning my companion, who had been taking mate in the
kitchen, set out to return. We had scarcely proceeded a
hundred yards when the tramp of approaching horsemen was
heard, and my companion enjoined strict silence, for fear of
* accidents,' and reined up our steeds under the shadow of
some trees, till we heard the people ]3ass. When their
voices had died away in the distance we proceeded, and re-
sumed our conversation, in the course of which he informed
me that it was unsafe to meet people at night in this vicinity
unless when well armed. I rather opened my eyes at this, and
moralised considerably on the benefits conferred by civilisa-
tion on Indian races. At Chaloupe's toldo I found Antonio
Linares, brother of the chief, who had brought with him a
bottle of brandy, over a glass of which I told him my busi-
ness, which he promised to forward, and after a nightcap he
left in search of more boon companions. This 3^oung fellow
was very well dressed in cloth ponchos and chiripas, leather
boots and clean linen, and wore a revolver in his belt. He
playfully informed me that he had been in search of some
one he had quarrelled with all the afternoon, and would have
shot him if he had foand him.
Mrs. Chaloupe made me up a luxurious bed with ponchos
and my own saddle gear, and indeed all the inmates of the
toldo showed me the greatest civility.
At an early hour in the morning I started on my now
jaded horse in the hopes of seeing Linares, but on arriving
at his house was informed that he had already left for
Carmen to have an interview with the Commandante, Seiior
Murga.
Eefusing the proffered mate, I hastened on and speedily
overtook him taking a stirrup cup at a friend's house. After
introducing myself and joining in a social glass, I was glad
Ch. VIII.] APPROACH TO PATAGONES. 285
to avail myself of liis companionsliip, as our routes lay in the
same direction, and transact my business on the road.
An hour's ride brought us in sight of Patagones, at which
point I diverged from my companion to the chacra or farm
of my expected host Don Pablo Piedra Buena, situated on
the river bank. Half an hour's ride brought uie to the
house, but finding no one at home, with the exception of a
big bull dog, I soon started in search, and shortly came on
two men occupied in ploughing. After the usual salutations
I inquired for Don Pablo, and was very civilly answered that
he was shortly expected at the farm, but that if I went
straight to Patagones I should probably meet him on the
way. Accordingly, being very desirous of some breakfast, I
spurred my horse into a gallop, and rode toAvards the town.
Its aspect, as viewed from a distance, although it appeared
rather irregular, was tolerably imposing ; the fort and build-
ings on the northern bank, which are situated on a rise,
showing out prominently, whilst on the southern shore the
cathedral (unfinished, of course) and English mission station
were the most noticeable buildings. After making a slight
detour through ignorance of the track, I arrived at the
immediate vicinity of the southern suburb, which, like
all Spanish settlements, new or old, failed to bear a close
inspection,'
An extensive mud-hole, which a fall of rain would probably
render impassable, bordered the outskirts, which, when
reached, were found to be plentifully strewn with ofial, heaps
of bricks, and other debris, making it incumbent carefully to
pick one's way along the paths.
As I had heard that it was possible the Commandante
would come over to the south side to arrange about a race,
I visited a pulperia, indicated as a likely place to learn his
whereabouts, where I found Linares and his capitanejo
(adjutant) taking a glass of brandy, and was introduced by
them to the proprietor, Don Jose Peal, who offered his services,
and informed me that Commandante Murga was expected in
about half an hour. I accordingly proceeded to the mission
station, where, having introduced myself to Dr. Humble, I
286 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. VIII.
left my now tired liorse in his quinta, and after a short rest
returned to Jose Eeal's, and found the Commandante Murga,
to whom I presented the letter from Casimiro and my own
letter of introduction.
At first sight I was not prepossessed in favour of SeSor
Murga ; he was about the middle height, dressed in Garibaldi
shirt, uniform trousers and boots, and casquette with the
lace bands denoting the rank of colonel. He disposed of my
business by saying that he would attend to it 'manana,'
to-morrow, which is the answer to everything in the pro-
vinces of La Plata, and evidently dismissing the subject from
his mind, resumed an argument with Don Jose about a race-
horse.
This Colonel Murga is addicted to field-sports of every
description, is a good rider, in fact a perfect gaucho, and
rarely misses a cockfight on Sunday after mass.
Somewhat disgusted with my reception I proceeded to the
boatman's house with the intention of crossing the river to
the north side, and knocking at the door asked in Spanish
for Solomon. It was opened by a well-dressed woman, and
inside I perceived a broad-shouldered, well-built man at his
breakfast. I was about to retire with apologies, when he
recognised me for an Englishman, and guessing who I was,
immediately dragged me in and seated me at the table,
whilst the good wife cut slices of bread and butter and brewed
more tea. I was considerably hungry, as the Americans say,
and enjoyed the bread and butter and tea as I never enjoyed
a meal anywhere else. The kind, honest welcome of this
Welsh family will always remain as a pleasant remembrance
to me of Patagones.
Leaving the house with Solomon we met Don Pablo, who
was equally hearty in his welcome, and we proceeded across
in his company to the northern shore, where my friend placed
his house at my disposal, and I took up my quarters with
him ; and after the necessary ablutions, and the reduction of
a twelvemonth's growth of hair to a decent length, got into
a new suit of clothes which were brought from Seiior Acuirre's
store, and felt that I was a civilised Cristiano once more.
Ch. VIII.] AMONG FKIENDS AT LAST. 287
That afternoon I was introduced by Don Pablo to several
of his relations, who were all most kind and amiable, and
their agreeable society dispelled the thoughts which I had
entertained of returning to the Indians ; instead of which I
now determined to send Meiia and Nacho out with the
answers to the letters and some stores, and wait in Patagones
until the arrival of the rest, employing the interval in recon-
noitring the place and studying its chances in the future.
288 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
CHAPTER IX.
THE RIO NEGRO SETTLEMENTS.
Patagones, or Carmen Old Town. — The Fort and Buildings. — The
Southern Town. — The English Mission. — Elements of the Population.
— The Negroes. — The Convicts. — Lawless State of Society. — The
Cemetery. — Early History of the Colony. — A Successful Stratagem. —
ViUarino's Ascent of the River. — Expedition of Rosas. — The Island of
Choelechel. — La Guardia Chica. — Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid. — An-
cient Indian Graves. — Flint A\'"eapons. — The Shepherd and Pumas. —
Estancia San Andr(5. — The Indians and the Colonists. — Calficura's
Raid. — Indian Method of Attack. — The Tame Indians. — View of the
Valley. — Trade of Patagones. — Fertility of the Soil. — Rio Negro
Wine.— The Sportsman. — Advice to Emigrants. — Interview with Col.
Murga. — The Government Grants to Chiefs. — Casimiro again. — The
Tehuelches in Town. — Farewell. — The Welsh Utopia. — Social Life
at Patagones. — The Steamer at Last. — Aground. — The Pilot, — Pat
Sweeny, — Adieu to Patagonia.
As it did not at the time occur to me that the rising settle-
ments of the Rio Negro could have escaped being fully
described already, I must candidly confess that the duty of
keeping a diary was neglected during my stay ; and recollec-
tions alone have furnished the materials for what has been
peremptorily urged on me as a necessary supplement to my
travels — a description of Patagones. This name, which
seems intended to designate the future capital of Patagonia,
has completely usurped the place of the original title El
Carmen, conferred on this settlement in honour of Nuestra
Senora del Carmen, under whose patronage it was j^laced.
The modern town, situated on a bend of the Rio Neerro,
about eighteen miles from the sea, consists of two parts separ-
ated by the river, here about 450 yards wide : the older and
most important on the northern bank, where the authorities
and principal people reside, and a new suburb on the southern
Ch. IX.] PATAGONES, OR CARMEN OLD TO^^^if. 289
bank, known as El Merced, which, though of recent growth,
threatens to eventually rival the northern portion. The
means of communication between the two is supplied by
ferry-boats, which are procurable at almost all hours.
On the northern beach a wooden pier has been erected,
opposite his store, by Sehor Aguirre, the grand capitalist,
banker, and factotum of the place, to allow the steamer to
unload with greater facility. It is probable that the north-
ern side will continue to preserve its importance for some
time to come, owing to the want of equal facilities for land-
ing goods on the other side, where at low tide an extensive
mudbank is exposed, which has to be passed to reach the
shore.
The position selected for Carmen by the founder com-
bined security with easy access to the river. The barranca
at this spot advances as it were to meet the river bend, and
leaving but a narrow intervening space. A rather steep hill
rises to a plateau, which again to the north, or rear of the
town, falls by a step to the level of the panipa. The crest is
crowned by the fort, and up the declivity climbs the town,
laid out with scrupulous adherence to the prescribed pattern,
the regularity of its streets and cuadros not being, however,
very perceptible to a stranger, owing to the formation of the
ground. Next to the fort, the most prominent buildings are
the Commandante's house, a pretentious red brick building,
and the old church of Nuestra Sehora del Carmen, an in-
significant edifice, both situated a little below the crest of
the hill, and under the wings as it were of the fort.
The fort itself, crowning the crest of the hill, or barranca,
is of imposing appearance when viewed at a distance, but a
closer inspection dispels the illusion, and reveals its utter
uselessness for defensive purjDoses. The walls are in wretched
repair, and the whole edifice is so decayed that when one of
the American gunboats stationed in the Rio de la Plata
visited the place some four years ago, and duly saluted the
Argentine colours, the reverberation of the discharge of her
big gun shook down a portion of the wall fronting the river !
The armament consists of a few field pieces of small calibre
u
290 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
mounted en harhette, and of very little use, as a single well-
directed shell would demolish the whole structure ; but if
advantage were taken of the j)Osition for the construction
of a substantial battery mounted with modern artillery, the
approaches to the town from all sides could be thoroughly
commanded and easily defended.
The Plaza or square lies immediately behind the fort,
which forms one side, and some comfortable houses are
situated in it, several of which, however, were only in course
of construction. The condition of the streets is very bad,
especially those descending the hill to the river-bank; in
some places the pedestrian sinks ankle deep in sand, and in
others stumbles over rugged masses of sandstone. The
pleasantest part of the town is the street running from the
jpier and store inland round the base of the hill : here a con-
siderable tract of low land stretching from the rear of the
houses on the eastern side to the river is laid out in gar-
dens, or quintas, full of all kinds of fruit trees, backed by a
row of tall poplars fringing the waterside.
One of these houses was the hospitable abode of my esteemed
friend Don Pablo Piedra Buena. It was a long low house,
built of sun-dried bricks and whitewashed. We occupied one
end, consisting of three rooms, the next part being occupied
by Don Ramirez, captain of the steam transport Choelechel
(at anchor within hail, off the Quinta), and his wife. The
remainder was tenanted by Don Domingo, an Italian, as a
restaurant and hotel. Besides Don Domingo's hostelry, the
town boasted another hotel, the property of Seiior Aguirre,
situated close to his store and pier, a fine well-built stone
house, the only one of that material I observed in Patagones,
almost all the other edifices being of brick, except in the
Negro quarter of the town, where they were simple adobe
houses. Whatever their material, many of the buildings in
all parts of the town were, like the fort, in a most tumbledown
condition, and a freer use of whitewash would, if the inhabit-
ants only knew it, cover a multitude of sins, both against
external decency and internal cleanliness.
On the southern shore a considerable tract of low land ex-
Ch. IX.] THE SOUTHERN TOWN AND ENGLISH MISSION. 291
tends from the river, and is liable to be overflowed at hisrh
sj)ring tides. This is devoted to the cultivation of wheat,
ditches being cut to afford imperfect drainage ; across these
flats a causeway — the construction of which is chiefly due to
the exertions of my friend the Welsh boatman Solomon —
leads to the new town of El Merced, built on the higher
ground, beyond the reach of floods. This, too, is laid out on
the universal plan, and judging from the piles of brick and
the numerous sites marked out for future houses, is rapidly
growing in size and importance. The roads, however, were
at the time of my visit as execrable as on the north side,
and the outskirts were offensive with offal and rubbish, while
the pantano or mud-hole seemed to present an impassable
baiTier to friend or foe. The most noticeable buildings were
— first, the new Church of Sehora del Merced, in the Plaza,
which, with its two towers, quite threw into the shade its
elder rival del Carmen, on the northern side ; and next the
English Mission Station, a considerable building occupying
two sides of a square, one wing containing the room used as
a chapel, whilst the other constituted the residence and dis-
pensary of the missionary, Rev. Dr. Humble. This gentle-
man, whose hospitality I frequently enjoyed, combined in his
own person the functions of doctor and clergyman. As re-
gards the mission, the converts did not appear to be nume-
rous ; indeed an Indian girl, who acted as servant and nurse,
seemed to be the only specimen. The whole establishment
was scrupulously neat and clean, and afforded an agreeable
contrast to the surrounding buildings. In fi-ont a consider-
able tract of ground extended to the river bank, part of
which constituted a pleasant garden, or quinta, the re-
mainder being used for grazing the horses of the establish-
ment, whilst a ditch cut at the lower end afforded a harbour
for the medical missionary's boat.
Dr. Humble formerly had a school for children, but it was
given up, I believe, on account of the opposition raised by
the Padre. The church was generally pretty full on Sun-
days, when the British flag is hoisted to denote the hour of
prayer ; and as half the service was conducted in Spanish, a
u 2
292 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
good sprinkling of the native inhabitants was generally pre-
sent— some perhaps with a view to obtain advice from the
pastor in his medical capacity, in which his skill and kind-
ness made him deservedly popular.
According to Sir Woodbine Parish, the population of Pata-
gones in 1882 amounted to no more than 800 : although no
statistical means of accurate information were at my dis-
posal, I should be inclined to estimate the j)resent number
of inhabitants at not less than 2,000, and they may exceed
that number.
They are divided into four very distinctly-defined classes :
— 1st. The descendants of the original and early Spanish
settlers ; 2ndly. The more recent foreign immigrants ;
3rdly. The negroes; and 4tlily. The convicts sent hither
from the Argentine Eepublic. The descendants of the ori-
ginal settlers, who for some unknown reason are styled by
their townsmen ' Malagatos,' both in name and character
manifest their unmixed descent from the sturdy Gallegos,
or settlers from Galicia. Closely united by intermarriage,
they form, as it were, one family, almost every member of
which is either a Crespo or a Real. Although hitherto
jealously exclusive as regards any admixture of their ' sangre
azul ' by alliance with the foreigners — except perhaps Eng-
lishmen— the men are remarkable for their hospitable kind-
ness and courtesy, whilst the ladies would vie with those of
any part of Old Spain or the Argentine provinces in grace
of manners or beauty. One noticeable feature of their cha-
racter was that both men and women manifested a far more
punctilious respect for religion than I had ever observed in
other Catholic countries. Every one made it a point of being
present at mass whenever it was celebrated. I was among
the guests when Don Benito Crespo was entertaining a party
at dinner, given to celebrate his daughter's birthday, which
happened to fall during the period of the novena in honour
of Santa Rosa, and when the bell sounded for vespers every-
body rose from table and hurried off to the church.
The second part of the population — the foreigners — pre-
sent a motley group of people of all nations, but the majority
Ch. IX.] ELEMENTS OF THE POPULATION. 293
are Italians and Basque Spaniards. There are a few French,
English, Welsh, Swiss, and Germans.
The negroes are the descendants of an importation of
slaves, introduced when the slave trade was legal by the
Governor, a Frenchman named Viba, Casiniiro's patron, who
appears to have entertained an idea of employing them to
cultivate the public lands. They all live together in one
quarter of the town — excepting, of course, those who go out
as servants — and keep up many old traditions and customs.
They are called by the Gauchos * Blandequis,' which may be
a corruption of Mandingo, and are a fine hard-working race,
whose industrious habits and general character differ widely
from the debased type of the negroes in the Brazils. Their
exact numbers I am ignorant of, but was informed that they
were once very much more numerous, their rapid decrease
being caused by their being drawn as soldiers, and the
ravages of the universal scourge of small-pox.
Lastly comes the convict element. Carmen, at an early
period of its history, was made a ' presidio,' or frontier penal
settlement, in this respect resembling Punta Arenas; but the
strict discipline of the Chilian colony is altogether wanting
in Patagones. There is a constant importation to the latter
place of deserters from th6 army, robbers, and felons of
every description, sent down from Buenos Ayres. These
men are, on their arrival, either enlisted as soldiers, or
turned loose on society, and allowed to work where and how
they please, or otherwise obtain a livelihood. They cannot,
it is true, escape, as there is no chance of getting away by
sea, and the almost certain danger of death or captivity
amongst the Para pa Indians is a sufiicient safeguard against
their betaking themselves to the interior ; but beyond this
there is no restraint exercised. Horse-^stealing is, in the
event of any animal being left unwatched, a moral certainty,
and robberies of all kinds are frequent and go almost un-
punished ; while murder, in the rare cases in which the
criminals are detected, simply involves being sent back to
Buenos Ayres for a trial, which results in a sentence of
transportation back to the Bio Negro. One man nf^,mecl
294 AT HOINIE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
Ruiz was pointed out as having been four times back-
ward and forward to and from Buenos Ayres for murders
committed : this man openly boasted that whenever he
wanted a trip he had to kill a man. Another man, who had
robbed the Bishop of Buenos Ayres of a jewelled clock, by
presentation of a forg-ed order, tilled the position of billiard
marker at the hotel, and was looked on as rather a clever
fellow. The Commandante's orderly was also a man sent
down for homicide. The state of society when these ruffians
— every one of whom carries a knife, which is used on the
slig-htest occasion — are allowed thus to remain loose may be
better imagined than described.
My friend Don Pablo was attacked one evening close to
his house, but fortunatel}" escaped unhurt. Murder is of
weekl}' occurrence, and it is necessary for everyone to carry
some weapon of self-defence, while few people think of leav-
ing the town without a revolver.
In the utter absence of legal protection, a project was
mooted among some of the foreigners to establish a vigilance
committee on the simple principle of mutual protection and
agreement to avenge any injury to one of the society. As
Sir Lucius consoled his friend by the remark that there is
' snug lying in the abbey,' the unprotected inhabitants of
Pntagones can pride themselves on their possessing an ex-
cellent new cemetery, situated to the north, about half a
mile outside the town, which is surrounded by a brick wall,
with iron gates, and kept in a neat and orderly condition. A
little east of it, nearer the town, lies the old cemetery,
the neglected state of which, when I visited it, offered a
melancholy contrast : the mud wall was breached in many
places ; coffins appeared protruding from the sand, and in
some cases were actually uncovered ; skulls and bones lay
exposed to view ; and, as a climax, a cat jumped out of one
coffin in which she had taken up her abode. I was extremely
surprised at such want of respect being shown by the re-
sidents to the bones of their departed ancestors, and remarked
on it to my companion, who shrugged his shoulders and
Ch. ix] ejlrly history of the colony. 295
muttered something which sounded like the inevitable
' Mariana.'
The most interesting relics of the first founders of the
colony are a number of caves, or dwellings, excavated in the
sandstone cliff, four miles below the town ; they contain
three or four chambers, leading into each other, and from
eight to ten feet square. In one I remarked a sort of trough,
hollowed out in the sandstone, which more resembled a
manger than anything else. Tradition narrates that these
were used as dwellings by the first settlers, or perhaps as
hiding-places for themselves, or for their cattle, in times of
war with the Indians.
Under the Spanish dominion the colony made but slow
progress, notAvithstanding the abandonment of all other
attempted settlements on the Patagonian coast, which left
the entire advantages to be derived from the valuable whale
and seal fisheries in the hands of the people of Carmen ;
their inertness allowed this mine of wealth to remain un-
worked, and it fell into the hands of English and American
fishermen, who worked them till a recent period. The
Argentine Government has asserted its claim and granted
a lease of the fisheries to Don Luiz Buena, with authority
to warn off all intruders; but the fisheries do not, I fear,
produce the profit deserved by his energy. The Carmen
settlers alternately traded with, and were plundered by the
Indians, preferring the profits of this doubtful commerce
to the dangerous, though profitable, sealing and whaling.
That the Indians' hostility had something to do with the
concentration of the Spanish forces at the Rio Negro ap-
pears fi'om a fact which has been studiously omitted from
the Spanish records. The Indians preserve an accurate
tradition to the effect that the first colonists at Port Desire
aroused the anger of the natives, who made a successful
attack : the colonists retreated into the church, v/here every
soul perished at the hands of the natives. The buildings
and fruit-trees still existing are the only monuments of the
destruction of this colony.
296 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Cii. IX.
From the time that the South American colonies asserted
their independence, Patagones shared in the consequent in-
crease of population and development of trade, as already
pointed out. Since Sir W. Parish wrote, the population has
largely increased and the value of property risen; and although
the ' old inhabitants ' complained to me of the want of progress,
the growing demand and price given for land and houses at
that time, compared with former years, proved the contrary.
One item of its history must not be omitted. During the war
between the Brazilians and the Argentine Confederation, the
inhabitants of Patagones distinguished themselves by defeat-
ing and capturing a Brazilian expedition sent to endeavour
to reduce the place. The story was told me as follows : — A
strong force of the Brazilians landed near the sea-coast, and
marched overland towards Carmen, halting about a league
north of the town. The garrison, numbering about fifty
regulars and some volunteers, sallied out, equipped w^ith a
large assortment of coloured ponchos. Taking up a posi-
tion behind a hill which concealed them froui the enemy,
who were ignorant of their real strength, the cunning men of
Carmen then displayed themselves as if for a reconnaissance,
and retreated, but only to change their ponchos and reappear
as a fresh detachment ; the enemy was thus led by these
repeated feints and transformations to considerably multiply
the real numbers of the Argentine troops, and hesitate to
attack so seemingly large a force. After nightfall the
herbage in the neighbourhood of the bivouac of the invading
army was set on fire. Bewildered by the smoke, the
Brazilians retreated, but were encountered by other fires
in their rear, and, seeing themselves apparently surrounded
and opposed by superior numbers, their leader caj)itulated.
The story is substantiated by the existence of the wreck of a
Brazilian man-of-war, still visible in the river.
The fertile valley of the Eio Negro must needs be de-
scribed in order to convey a proper idea of the resources of
Patagones as a colony. By far the greater extent of this
vaJley is as uncultivated as when it was first explored by
Don Basilio Villarino, who, under the orders of Viedma,
Ch. IX.] VILLARINO'S ASCENT OF THE RIVEB. 297
ascended the river in order to ascertain its source, and whose
diary is extant in the collection of De Angelis, a valuable
abstract of it having been given by Sir W. Parish, though
sufficiently long ago in our rapid age to be almost forgotten.
He ascended with launches first as far as the Island of
Choelechel, seventy leagues from Carmen, which he recom-
mended should be fortified as an advance post against the
Indians ; thence, after incredible difficulties, he succeeded in
reaching the foot of the Cordillera, always keeping on good
terms with the natives. Here he met with the Araucanians
(termed by me Mauzaneros), and was in great hopes of
reaching Yaldivia through their aid, as they showed them-
selves friendly disposed ; when, unfortunately, the Indians
fell out amongst themselves, one of the chiefs being killed in
the melee. The chief who caused this man's death came
with his people to the Spaniards to implore their assistance,
which was promised. This led to the whole of the remaining
Indians forming a league and declaring war against the
Spaniards, whose name up to the present they detest. Being
obliged to abandon his intention of reaching Valdivia,
Villarino reluctantly determined to return, and accordingly,
after being supplied by his allies with a store of apples and
pinones, descended the river and returned to Carmen.
From the description of this journey, together with the
mention of the supplies of apples and piiiones obtained at
the farthest point reached, I am inclined to assume that this
point was near, if not identical with, the place where we
passed the Limay on our journey to Las Manzanas, a mile
or two below the rapids where Mr. Cox was wrecked.
Yillarino states that he entered in his small boat a channel
where the river flowed over rounded stones to the S.W.
Now the point where Mr. Cox's boat was lost was a rapid to
all appearance impassable for a boat : however, it is possible
that Yillarino employed Indians on horseback to track his
boat, and that the state of the river was more favourable for
navigation at the period of his visit.
The mention of the friendly Indians who accompanied him
on his return and settled under the protection of the
298 AT HOJttE WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
Sj)aniards, suggests the idea that these may have been the
ancestors of Los Mansos or the Tame Indians, at present in
the service of the Government. Casimiro had a legend about
Indians friendly to the first Spanish settlers, who were sub-
sequently illtreated by them, and I believe revolted. Luiz
Aguirre also asserted that his father was one of the original
chiefs of the Rio Negro, who for a long time was friendly to
the Spaniards, but at length, a revolt taking place, was im-
prisoned and kept in Carmen as a hostage, where he died.
In the year 1832, when Rosas, for the protection of the
southern frontier, made his great attack on the Indians, and
driving them back to the neighbourhood of the Cordillera,
forced them to submit to his terms, he established a
military post at Choelechel, as advised by Villarino. His
scheme was, I believe, to extend from this point a chain of
forts as far as Mendoza, thus keeping the Salinas Indians
quiet inside the chain, and driving the Araucanos up to their
native valleys of the Cordillera.
This plan was never carried out, and the post, to which the
name Isla de Rosas had been given, was abandoned. Rosas
was, notwithstanding his having beaten the Indians back,
very popular amongst them, and on his overthrow a relation
of his, Don Pedro Rosas, took refuge in the Salinas with his
artillery and battalion. Orkeke and several friends of mine
often inquired after Rosas, saying that ' he was a good man,'
&c.
The next expedition up the river occurred only a year
previous to my arrival in the Rio Negro, when the steamer
Choelechel ascended as far as the island, accompanied by
a land force under the Commandante Murga, Indians
were found occupying the island, and a European was re-
poi'ted as resident among them, and as exercising the
authority of chief. Although he refused to hold any com-
munication with the Argentine commander, it is most pro-
bable that this was the famous Frenchman Aurelie I., who
was said to have obtained a supply of arms landed in the
Rio Negro, and brought up to this island. The expedition
Cu. IX.] ISLAND OF CHOELECHEL. 299
did not think fit to disturb the Indians, and returned with
little to show as the result of their journey.
It was in contemplation to despatch another expedition,
but I have as yet heard no news of its progress from, my
Patagones correspondents, and it is probably postponed till
' maiaana.'
The large island of Choelechel, which I know only by
description, never having visited it, appears to be not only
an important station in a military point of view, but also
admirably adapted for cultivation ; there are, however, some
reasons against its occupation for that purpose : the first is
the undoubted hostility of the Indians to any enterprise
tending to occupy what they consider their country ;
secondly, its distance from Carmen or Patagones as a base
of supply for bringing up implements and importing produce,
supposing the first difl&culties overcome. A railroad or tram-
way might, I am sure, be constructed at little cost to run
down the whole valley of the river, or steam launches of good
power, fitted to burn wood, would furnish an eff'ectual means
of communication. The present Government steamer Choe-
lechel both draws too much water and is of too small
power to render material assistance in the way of opening
up the river. The Capitano Major Kamirez pointed out
these defects to his Government previous to her being
brought to the Eio Negro, but his opinion was overruled.
Foyel and a cacique named Limaron, who claims territorial
rights over the island, had a scheme for cultivating Choele-
chel and other advantageous spots, importing for the purpose
Yaldivian settlers used to the labour from the other side of
the Cordillera, and obtaining their supplies and implements
from Carmen.
The present further limit of settlement in the valley is the
advanced military post called La Guardia Chica, situated
about seven leagues above the second Guardia, and about
twenty-five leagues from Carmen. It has not, I believe,
been in existence many years, and was two years ago the
scene of an emeute amongst the garrison, which was graphi-
300 AT HOME WITH THE PATAQONIANS. [Ch. IX.
cally described to me at our -watclifire in Las Manzanas by
Rouque Pinto, who bad evidently assisted, if not as an actor,
at least as a spectator at the scene. Tbe troops, wbo were
mostly foreigners, according to bis account, suddenly rose,sbot
or stabbed tbe officer in command, and tben tbeir lieutenant,
wbo was killed wbilst endeavouring to escape by swimming
tbe river. Tbe mutineers tben sacked tbe place, getting of
course intoxicated on tbe contents of tbe grog sbops, and re-
mained in possession for a day or two, wben a party, beaded
by a man named Bonifaccio, a Government agent for treating
witb tbe Indians, rode in and took tbe ringleaders, wbo
were, I believe, summarily sliot. I tell tbe story as it was
told me, and can only voucb for tbe trutb of tbe fact tbat
tbe officers were killed in a mutiny, wbicb was afterwards
suppressed by tbe determination and courage of Bonifaccio.
Woodcutters frequently come up tbe river tbus far to pro-
cure tbe red willow timber. Tbeir plan is simple : tbey ride
up bringing tbeir axes, ropes, and provisions, and wben
arrived at tbe scene of tbeir labours turn tbeir borses adrift,
wbicb readily find tbeir way bome. Tbe men form tbeir
timber into a raft, and voyage on it safely down tbe river.
Tbis, altbougb bard work, is a profita,ble occupation for men
skilled witb tbe axe. Perbaps at some future period tbeir
operations will be extended fartber west, and rafts of Arau-
carian pine, apple, and otber trees will be floated down from
tbe forests of tbe Cordillera.
From tbe Guardia Cbica or Little Guardia, still keeping on
tbe nortb side, a wide flat plain extends to tbe Guardia de-
scribed in tbe previous cbapter; in tbis several farms are
situated, most of tbem wbeat-raising establisbments. Nearly
all tbis land is leased by Senor Aguirre from tbe Government,
and be bas at present a large number of men engaged in
cutting a cbannel or ditcb for tbe purpose of irrigating an
extensive tract of land. Tbe men employed in tbis work
are nearly all of tbem natives of Santiago del Estero,
and it is needless to state tbat it is a most expensive
undertaking : it is only to be boped tbat Senor Aguirre
will find bis labour and expense repaid by fruitful crops.
Ch. IX.] ESTANCIA OF JVIESSES. KINCAID. 301
A few farms are rented bj Welsh settlers, refugees from
the Chupat, who wisely have preferred the valley of the
Rio Negro to that luckless settlement.
A little above the Guardia is situated the estancia of
Messrs. Kincaid, of which we caught a glimpse on our first
arrival at civilisation. I had the pleasure of staying some
days at this farm, where a good deal of land had been brought
under cultivation, and flocks of sheep might be seen grazing
on the rich plain.
The estancia, from its situation in what is termed a rincon
or corner, namely, a peninsula nearly surrounded by a bend
of the river, possessed great advantages, and as it is one of
the most convenient places for passing cattle to the south
side, the owner, who keeps a boat on the river, was enabled
to do a profitable business with the Indians when they re-
ceived their rations, by assisting them in ferrying their
animals across.
The overseer, under Mr. Kincaid, was a Scotch shepherd,
whose gude wife superintended the menage ; the house was
a substantial edifice, built mainly by Messrs. Kincaid, the
beams being taken from willow trees felled in the rincon.
Up to the time of my visit these gentlemen had been working
against fortune, neither of the yields of grain in the two pre-
vious years of their occupation having been even a good
average.
Close to this estancia a number of ancient Indian burial
grounds exist, where, besides skulls and bones, numerous
flint arrowheads may be found, some of which, in my posses-
sion, have been exhibited to the learned members of the
Anthropological Institute, and found to present the peculiar
Indian type. Besides flint arrow-heads, pestles and mortars,
fashioned out of a porous stone, are also to be found. These
articles probably belonged to an old race of Indians who
inhabited the Kio Negro previous to the advent of Spaniards
and horses, and the pestles and mortars were probably used
for pounding the algarroba bean into a paste like that at
present manufactured by Pampa Indians under Teneforo ;
indeed, Luiz Aguirre gave me to understand that these
302 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIAIsS. [Ch. IX.
Pampas "Were of an original stock formerly inhabiting the
Yalley of the Rio Negro, but I leave these conjectures to the
consideration of ethnologists more skilled than myself. Near
these ancient graves I renewed my acquaintance with the
old familiar vizcacha of the plains of Buenos Ayres, which I
have previously pointed out does not exist in Patagonia
jjroper, viz., to the south of the Rio Negro. Two other
species of armadillo besides the quirquincho were described
as being found in their neighbourhood, but I was not for-
tunate enough to meet with either description, as they were
at this season hybernating» Puma have been killed in the
neighbourhood of one of the sheep stations. The shepherd
heard two outside the corral on one occasion, and giving
chase the puma ascended a small tree. The shepherd was
only lightly attired, but he stripped off his shirt and fastened
it to a stick planted by the tree, which unknown white object
so terrified the ' leones ' that they remained quiet while he
fetched his gun and shot them both.
The skin of an aguarra killed on the premises was also
shown to me, but I had not the good fortune to see one
alive. The rarity of the animal causes the skins to be highly
valued, being worth 5?. each in Carmen.
Prom the second Guardia a short gallop past the advanced
barrancas, near which the river flows in another bend, brings
the traveller to another wide plain, which to the north runs
up into an abra deeply recessed in the receding barranca :
in this there are several farms ; one of which, six miles
below the Guardia, belonging to Messrs. Praser and Grenfell,
is named the Estancia San Andre, and is also situated {i.e.
the house and parts intended for wheat growing) inside a
rincon or corner partitioned off by a good whitethorn or
chanal fence, resting at each end in the river. The sheep
and cattle graze during the day outside, but the latter and
the horses are invariably brought within the enclosure at
night for fear of theft. This foresight of enclosing the cattle
had saved Mr. Praser a considerable loss a short time previous
to my visit, as a party of marauding Indians rode along out-
side the fence, and finding nothing but sheep, which travel
Ch. IX.] ESTAXCIA SAN ANDR^. 303
too slowly to be securely lifted, proceeded to tlie next estancia
and drove off the cattle and horses, after stripping the
shepherd of his clothes, but doing him no bodily injury.
When the news reached Mr. Fraser he got some men
together and started in hot pursuit ; although a stern chase is
a long one, the cattle grew tired, and the Indians, probably
some of Calficura's ]3eople, abandoned them, escaping with
the horses only.
I passed several days at the Estancia San Andre, spending
the greater part of my time in reading, first the papers, and
then all the available books, and now and then sauntering
about with a gun to shoot partridges or pigeon, whilst my
companions were busy, each with his team of oxen ploughing
in the seed, or carting bricks down to the new house in
course of completion.
The house we occupied was of adobe, and getting rather
into a tumbledown condition ; but the new house was a sub-
stantial brick building, the bricks burnt by the futvire occu-
piers, and the walls run up by some Italian masons. This new
house was situated on the extremity of the rincon, or corner, or
where its apex touched the river : in front of it was a small
island, rapidly undergoing conversion from its original reed-
covered state to a fertile garden, in which a good croj) of
potatoes had already been grown and fruit trees were being
planted.
The old house was to be given up to the Capataz, or head
man, who then resided with his wife in a portion of it. This
man was a native, named Medado; and I have since heard
that, when pursuing the Indians who had invaded some
stations near Bahia San Bias, he swam the river unaccom-
panied, and rescued two captives, for which he was made an
officer of National Guards. His chief business consisted in
looking after the cattle and horses, and training the race-
horse, of which Mr. Eraser was justly proud.
During my stay the San Andre crack was entered against
a horse of Linares' over a short course, and won easily,
landing stakes of about eighty head of cattle.
I noticed, whilst at San Andre, a very beautiful descrip-
304 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
tion of small hawk, wliicli appeared closely allied to our
merlin, and shot one specimen.
The San Andre people, like those at Rincon Barrancas,
had been struggling against ill-fortune for two seasons ; the
last season their harvest was a fair one, but unfortunately
they delayed thrashing out for a long time, waiting for a
thrashing machine from England, which, when it did arrive,
wo aid not work properly, and made it necessary for them
ultimately to resort to the native fashion of treading out
with mares ; bad weather ensued, and a considerable portion
of the grain was spoiled : such are the woes of Rio Negro
farmers, especially improving ones. During my visit the
daily routine of tilling, marking cattle, bringing up the
horses, &c., was carried on ; but we found time to visit the
next estancia, owned by a Swiss gentleman residing in
Buenos Ayres, and managed in his absence by a Swiss
countr^^man, known by the name of Don Juan. Here, as
sheep at the present time hardly paid the cost of shearing,
an experiment was being made of curing mutton hams for
exportation to Buenos Ayres, and a large number had been
already cured and were ready for shipment ; but the result of
the experiment is unknown to me, and the ingenious Don
Juan has since died.
During my stay at San Andre and Rincon Barrancas I
picked up a good deal of information regarding the relations
of the Indians with the colonists, which perhaps may not be
uninteresting to the reader. All the settlements and
guardias previously described are situated on the north bank
of the river, the south side being almost entirely, as far as
this point, in the hands of the Tame and other Indians.
The Indian parties who are most feared are the Araucanos,
under the chief Rouque, and the Pampas of Calficura, who
has his head-quarters at the Salinas near Bahia Blanca, while
the former ranges from the neighbourhood of Choelechel to
the Cordillera. I should be inclined to think that Rouque is
a subordinate chief under Cheoeque, though I am not certain of
the fact, as the latter chief, during my visit to Las Manzanas,
mentioned Rouque as being with his people in the apple and
Cir. IX.] calficuea's rmd. 305
pine gTOves, gathering the autumn harvest; but I subse-
quently met some of these Indians at the Guardia waiting
for Rouque's ration, and recognised one as having been pre-
sent at our council and subsequent festivities in Las Man-
zanas. The Government agent for Indian affairs, Boni-
faccio, showed me a magnificent pair of stirrups sent from
Buenos Ayres as a present to Rouque, the policy of the
authorities being to keep him and Cheoeque from joining
Calficura in the threatened raid on the frontier. The reason
assigned for the declaration of war by this latter chief was
the death — by which he probably meant the imprisonment — •
of one of his inferior caciques ; but the real reason probably
was that the Argentine Government, on account of robberies
committed by some of his people, had refused to renew his
ration of animals. The outbreak in Entre Eios, resultinof
from the death of Urquiza, was then unforeseen, and it was
intended to have despatched a large force, under the com-
mand of Seiior Mitre, to reinforce the whole frontier, and if
necessary crush Calficura ; but the troubles caused by Lopez
Jordan necessitated the despatch of all available forces at
once to Entre Rios, and the meditated scheme of renderinsr
the frontier secure was postponed. Calficura subsequently
took advantage of this by attacking the frontier in various
places, carrying off captives women and children, besides
numerous herds of cattle, winding up by attacking and de-
vastating the new settlements in the neighbourhood of Bahia
Blanca, his Indians penetrating boldly, almost without re-
sistance, into the very heart of the town, and returning with
abundance of booty. Patagones was not attacked, which
may partially be due to the arrangements effected in Las
Manzanas, the unwillingness of the Tehuelches to join, and
the gaining over of Eouque. The latter chief, however
most probably played a double game, and whilst receiving
rations and gifts with one hand, allowed his people to join
the raids and received plunder with the other.
One reason for the Indians not committing great raids on
the Rio Negro settlements is simply that cattle and horses
hardly exist in sufficient numbers to reward a foray on a. largQ
X
306 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
scale. Small parties sometimes come in, as in the case de-
scribed, when the horses were taken from the ' China Muerte,'
the estancia of Mr. Fraser's neighbour ; but these are i-ather
robberies than hostile invasions — indeed, no important raids
have occurred since the time of Lenquetrou, who united all
the Indians for the purpose, and swept the valley in a raid
which, it may be remembered, was described to me by Gra-
vino, a participator in it, at Inacayal's toldos, near the Pass
of the Rio Limay. The settlers were naturally anxious to
know my opinion as to the probable safety of the Eio Negro,
and I assured them that, from what I knew, there was little
chance of a raid, but that on the contrary Bahia Blanca was
sure to be attacked, and I especially warned one of our
countiymen who was on his way to Bahia Blanca not to
hazard himself by settling outside the town at the present
juncture. Englishmen are apt to suppose that because they
possess good weapons, rifles and revolvers, and are able and
ready to use them, they can resist an Indian attack ; but the
whole system of their warfare consists in sudden surprises.
They secretly collect their forces, and waiting at a safe dis-
tance during the night, come in at the early dawn, and per-
haps the unsuspicious settler, going to the corral or looking
for his horses, obsei'ves in the distance what appears to be a
troop of horses, driven, according to custom, by one or two
mounted men ; these approach unchallenged, but in a second
every horse displays an armed rider, shouting his war-cry.
They then spread out, as if to encircle the game, thus pre-
senting no front to the rifles of their opponents, and dash
down lance in hand; and whilst some secure the animals,
others set fire to the dwellings and carry off" the women — if
there are any — captives. In some cases they kiU the men,
but generally only when much resistance is offered.
Although their chief object in warfare is to carry off cattle
and captives, the Indians will at times fight desperately,
regardless of odds, and show little or no fear of death ; and
the survivors will never leave their wounded or killed on the
field. The Indians in the service of the Government, mus-
tering about fifty lances, and residing chiefly on the south
Ch. IX.] LINAEES AND THE TAME INDIANS. 307
side, are commanded by a mau named Linares, previously
mentioned as living at San Xaviel ; he receives the pay and
rations of an ofl&cer in the army, of what rank I do not
know, and all his men regularly receive pay and rations.
These are supposed to act as gendarmerie ; but although
Linares and his four brothers ara probably to be depended
on, I doubt very much if the rank and file could be trusted
to remain true to their colours in the event of a united raid
taking place, such as that organised by Lenquetrou.
They have all acquired, by their lengthened residence in
the neighbourhood of bad characters, a rowdy, swaggering
disposition not generally, according to my experience, com-
mon amongst uncivilised Indians ; and frequent losses of
cattle occur to people settled on the south side, no doubt
attributable to these dubious allies and defenders.
Between San Andre and Carmen the winding coarse of
the river twice approaches and recedes from the barranca,
forming two successive wide alluvial plains, partly settled
and partly in natural pasture, in one of which a mill turned
by water-power was at this time in course of erection, the
existing corn-mills being cumbrous, old-fashioned affairs
worked by horses.
The barranca then abuts on the river, except in one place,
where there is a farm and wharf used for loading salt,
forming a cliff close to the river bank as far as Carmen.
Above this farm and wharf an old fort, apparently un-
tenanted, and armed with one gun, is situated ; and away to
the north-east, in an indentation in the plain, lies a large
salina from which the salt is extracted.
From the immediate neighbourhood of this fort a fine
view of the valley below presented itself : right in front, or
nearly due south, on the other side of the river, lay San
Xaviel, partially shrouded by trees ; scattered farms occurred
to the west of this, and along the bank as far as the south
side of the town. In the river several delightful-looking
cultivated islands were to be seen, the most noticeable form-
ing the vineyard of Don Benito Crespo. Beyond the town,
to the south-east, the eye ranged over unbroken plains, with
X 2
308 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
tlots here and tliere marking sheep stations or small farms.
Of the south side little has been said : near the town there
are many small estancias ; but a great drawback, I am told,
to settling there is the fact that no secure titles to the pro-
perties are procurable, and therefore there is no security of
occupation in the event of acquiring a piece of land. An
impoi'tant establishment must not be overlooked, namely,
the saladero of Senor AguiiTe, situated about a league below
the town of Carmen, whence a considerable amount of hides
and tallow is exported to England. During my stay a
North-German or Dutch barque was lying off the place
loading a cargo. Besides these commodities, the exports of
Carmen include salt, wheat, ostrich feathers, and peltries
obtained fi'om the Indians, and some few ponchos and saddle-
cloths ; while the imports may be placed under the head of
sundries or notions, from imitation ponchos and cheap finery
to Paraguay tea and bad spirits.
Although to my eyes, so long accustomed to treeless wastes,
rocky spur-like mountains, and Avild grassy valleys, the valley
of the Rio Negro appeared almost a garden of Eden, no
doubt to any new arrival from England it would not have
the same aspect. The valley through which the river winds is
destitute of any trees, besides the frmge of tall willows which
belt the stream, extending (except perhaps in Sauce Blanco)
nowhere more than a couple of hundred yards from the
bank. The i)lains stretching on either bank to the chaual
and scrub covered deserts in many places were so closely
eaten down by sheep and cattle as to present the minimum
of vegetation, at least in the winter season.
However bare and unpromising the land may seem, such
is the fertility of the soil that wheat may be grown, crop
eifter crop, and year after year, on the same land. Potatoes
attain a very large size and are of excellent quality, but
these are chiefly grown in the islands of the river.
The Govei-nment have lately issued orders that all islands
belong inalienably to the State, and all present occupiers are
obliged to pay a small head rent to the authorities, which
peems to point at a future occupation of Choelechel.
Resides potatoes, all other European vegetables and fruit-
Cm. IX.] RIO NEGRO WINE AND BRANDY. 309
trees grow well; tobacco seems to thrive, and vines promise
to furnish a staple of export in the shape of Rio Negro wine.
In one of the islands, occupied by Don Benito Crespo, and
leased by him on shares to some Spaniards from the neigh-
bourhood of Cadiz, a great number of vines have been planted
and large quantities of grapes pressed out yearly. The wine,
which is called ' Chacoli,' has the muscatel flavour and
bouquet of Moselle, and is a thin pure wine, excellent to
drink in the warm weather, as it is by itself not at all strong
or heady. I should imagine that it would not bear exporta-
tion, but Don Benito has hopes that his Andalusians will
shortly be able to produce a superior quality. Besides wine,
I tasted at the table of this hospitable gentleman some
brandy, the produce of the same grape: it was of course
colourless, of good taste, but any number of degrees over
proof.
A sportsman can always find amusement either in shooting
ducks, partridges, geese, and other wild fowl, or mounting
his horse and chasing ostriches or deer in the abras or open-
ings running far up like inlets of grass between the scrub-
covered promontories of the barranca. Fish may be caught
in the river, chiefly, I believe, the delicious pejerey^ or large
smelt, and those perch-like fish described as existing in the
rivers of Patagonia.
For guanaco, the pampas near San Bias must be visited,
but the valley and the lagoons formed by backwaters of the
river furnish abundance of black-necked swans, upland
geese, red- headed ducks, widgeon, teal, flamingoes, and
roseate spoonbills.
It will be evident that to any active and enterprising
young men, prepared to rough it a little, and possessed of a
small sum of ready money, who wish to invest in land and
cultivate, there is much to be said for and against the Rio
Negro as a home. The land may be had at a reasonable
price, and little clearing is required. Implements may be
brought from Buenos Ayres, either in a sailing ship or by
the steamer which is supposed to run monthly, though rather
' Atherinichthys Argentinensis. Cuuningliam, p. 54.
310 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
uncertain in its movements. The climate is pleasant and
healthy, and one good season of harvest would almost repay
the outlay on a moderate establishment.
As to the drawbacks to be placed on the contra side, the
river is subject at times to floods, at other times droughts
prevail, and, unless artificial irrigation be resorted to,
crops will fail, besides which occasionally a million of
locusts will save the farmer the trouble of reaping his
harvest; the cattle, of which most people keep enough to
supply milk and meat for home consumption, may be run
off by Indians ; and last, but not least, the settler may lose
his life by the hand of some felon. But no colony offers a
certainty of making a rapid fortune.
The great mistake most English settlers make is going
out to a place with the idea that the}^ are going to make a
' pile ' in a year or two and then return to Europe.
In my opinion the settler should go with the intention of
making the place he has chosen his home : then if successful
he can return, but he should not look forward to it. The
Basque population are looked upon in the Argentine pro-
vinces as the best immigrants, as they generally stay in the
country. The Italians, on the contrary, grub away for some
years, starving and pinching, until they have amassed a small
sum of money sufficient to enable them to live at ease in
Italy, while English and all others are looked upon as people
to be fleeced if possible. Sheepfarming in the Rio Negro is,
I think, to be avoided, as in other places in the Argentine
provinces. Seiior Aguirre told me that he had lost a large
sum of money in this investment, and many of my country-
men from the Rio de la Plata can sympathise with him.
Two sturdy Scotchmen are at present trying the experiment
near Carmen, and as sheep were at a low price when they
commenced, they may succeed.
It is a question in my mind whether larch or araucaria
pines would not thrive along the flats bordering the river ;
perhaps the climate is too dry for the latter, but the experi-
ment is almost worth trying for anyone possessed of means
and inclination to take up his abode for a term of years in
Ch. rX.] INTERVIEW WITH COL. MURGA. 311
the Rio Negro. For my own part, were I a settler, I should
be induced to confine my efforts to tlie cultivation of the
vine, and perhaps tobacco, keeping of course the necessary
stock of animals for home consumption.
It must be clearly understood that I am not recommending
or interested in the Rio Negro as a place to which intending
emigrants should direct their thoughts ; it undoubtedly
possesses great natural advantages, which are, as yet, insuffi-
ciently developed by most of the colonists. Their estancias,
with the exception of those of my Scotch and English friends,
are generally small, miserable-looking tenements, with offal
scattered round the ill-kept corral ; and their agriculture is
as indifferent as the neglected appearance of the houses
would suggest. But for all that, there is not a really poor
man -except in consequence of his own laziness or drunken
habits — in Carmen and its vicinity, and labour is in great
demand at high wages, while living is cheap, which ex-
perience, since my return, has taught me to be a painful
cojitrast to the state of our own population at home.
I was recalled from Rincon Barrancas and my speculations
on the Rio Negro as a field for emigrants by the distant view
of Indians, espied from the lookout on the top of my host's
house, as they descended from the travesia, and hastened back
to the town to receive them, according to promise. It will be
remembered that on my arrival as chasqui I presented to
Seiior Murga my despatches, in which Casimiro detailed his
arrangements for the protection of Patagones. A list of the
chiefs to whom rations or gifts of cattle, horses, &c., were due,
was also enclosed, and a request that a hundred mares should
be sent out at once with the returning messengers. After
some days' delay I was sent for by Seiior Murga, who, it may
be here remarked, is reputed to thoroughly understand the
Indians, and to display considerable address in managing
them. It was amusing to observe the natural suspicion and
perplexity aroused in the mind of the Commandante con-
cerning my position among the Indians ; and my reply to
his question as to what rank and influence I possessed among
them, and how I was interested for them — that I was simply
312 AT HOSIE WITH THE PATAGONIAKS. ICii. IX.
a guest and friend — did not seem at all sufficient to ex-
plain matters. But he discussed the question of the chiefs
and their requests, and assured me that all the chiefs who
should be found to be entitled to rations should duly receive
them : he, however, absolutely refused to send out any mares,
declaring that Casimiro should receive all his dues when he
arrived.
As the grand Cacique had for several years not drawn his
annual allowance, amounting to 200 cows, 100 mares,
500 sheep, and a quantity of clothes and yerba, it can be well
imagined that with fair play and prudence he would, on this
visit, become a wealthy as well as powerful Cacique, as a
reward for his labours. At his previous visit he had left a
quantity of cattle and sheep, under charge of some of the
Tame Indians, to increase and multiply ; but alas ! on his
arrival, in reply to his inquiries, only one small flock of
sheep was forthcoming, the rest, instead of multiplying, having
been gambled awaj^ by their guardians. The liberality of
the Argentines and the largeness of the gifts may appear
surprising ; and indeed the nominal value, as charged to the
Government for these annual gifts to the Indians, is very
great. I saw myself 1,000 head of cattle pass on their
way to Eouque, and Cheoeque was expecting 1,200. The
cattle were brought down from the Tandil by purveyors,
whose business must be as lucrative as that of American
army contractors ; for the Indians are sometimes when sober,
or oftener when intoxicated, induced to part with their newly-
acquired possessions for a mere trifle, and the cattle, revert-
ing to the dealer's hands, thus do duty over again as a ration
perhaps to the same Cacique. Thus the Indians benefit but
little, while the Government pays a large amount and the
purveyors and other agents grow rich, Indians and Govern-
ment being esteemed apparently as lawful and natural pigeons,
to be plucked by any safe means.
The Commandante's reply had been duly forwarded to
Casimiro, together with some liquor and presents for my
friends ; and the morning following my return from the
country I was awoke early by a knock at the door, and on
opening it found five or six Tehuelches who had made their
Ch. IX.] THE TEHUELCHES IN TOWN. 313
waj over tlie river to my quarters. After giving tliem a
mate we all proceeded to the store, and I gave one or two
some small presents. Among these first arrivals was my
friend Jackeclian, the Cacique from tlie Chupat, who confided
to me that he had been very drunk the night before. The
Tehuelches had not, however, waited till they reached the
settlements for an opportunity of abandoning themselves to
the pernicious enjoyment of ' lum.' It soon came out that
their delay at Valchita had been necessitated by a prolonged
debauch on liquor procured from the Guardia. Casimiro
had of course set the example, and the drink had, as usual,
also led to quarrelling, which resulted in a general fight ;
several had been killed, including Cayuke, so often mentioned
as a staunch friend ; and I was greatly grieved at being
unable to get any accurate tidings of my Herculean comrade
the good-natured Waki, who had, beyond doubt, been killed
at the same timei
Such common occurrences were little regarded by my
visitors, all of whom were caciquillos, and whom I presently
dismissed rejoicing, with a promise to visit them on the south
side in the evening. But my troubles had only just com-
menced. All day long Tehuelches kept arriving, and not
knowing what to do with themselves, followed me about
wherever I went, much to the amusement of some of my
acquaintances.
In the evening I crossed to the other side, and remained
for the night with my old hosts. All were in a great state
of delight, as their rations were to be given them without
delay — the yerba, sugar, and spirits from Aguirre's stores,
and the cattle and mares from the Guardia in front of Sauce
Blanco. Old Orkeke, who had not expected to receive
rations, had been allowed, in consequence of my urging his
claims, the same as other minor chiefs, and was consequently
in high delight.
They were, on the other hand, very dissatisfied at the ex-
tremely low prices which their feathers and peltries had
realised, and abused the dealers very roundly as a lot of rogues.
False weights and other tricks of trade had been freely em-
ployed to cheat the Indians ; and the storekeepers also charged
814 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
exorbitantly for necessaries supplied to them. Tkeir custom
is to bivouac in the yards or corrals at the back of the stores,
■where they light fires and cook as in their own country, and
pay in the end as dearly for their accommodation as if in a
West End hotel. I delighted the heart of Mrs. Orkeke by
presenting her with a long-promised iron pot and a shawl ;
and to Hinchel's son I gave a promised pack of cards, and
to the children raisins, sweets, or bread.
Jackechan's wife and daughter, who had always shown me
great kindness, I took into the store, and told them to
choose whatever they fancied most ; whereupon they both,
without hesitation, selected two small bottles of scent to put
on their hair. I must remark, en passant, that all this family
were exceptionally clean in their habits and persons, and I
promised, if I returned to Patagonia, to travel in their toldo,
as I had then some idea of journeying by the sea-coast to
the Chupat, and perhaps to Santa Cruz. Jackechan's son — •
the boy with light hair and complexion — volunteered to
come to England with me, and I consented to take him ; but
on hearing that there were no ostriches or guanaco where we
were going, he thought better of it.
Some of Quintuhual's and Foyel's people also arrived, but
behaved themselves in a very different manner to the Tehuel-
ches. Their women and children had all been left in Gey-
lum, and the men walked about in a very independent
manner, with a proud, superior bearing, not condescending
to admire anything, or to ask for any presents. One of
them, on the boatman requesting his fare for bringing him
across the river, refused flatly, and then drew his revolver to
enforce his denial.
Last, but not least, as became so great a personage, Casi-
miro arrived, attended by Meha, who acted as secretary. His
costume had suffered considerably from his late pursuits, and
his appearance was by no means improved by a gash in his
face received from a Manzanero in a brawl at Sauce Blanco.
He installed himself in the hotel, hired the fifes and drums
of the garrison to play whilst he was at breakfast, and for
two days kept open house for all comers, ending the day in
an advanced state of intoxication.
Cu. IX.] THE WELSH UTOPIA. 315
At the end of tliis debauch a bill was handed to him which,
I should think, took the value of nearly half his rations. This
sobered him, and he, taking my advice, left the hotel, and
crossing the river proceeded to Sauce Blanco to look after
his rations and Indians. On the whole, the Indians behaved
very well whilst in the settlement. I saw, of course, some
drunkenness, but not nearly so much as I had expected. One
and all parted from me with most cordial farewells, and
pressed me to return to the Pampa, as they call it, as soon
as possible. Jackechan was one of the last to leave. He, as
well as one or two of the others, had found an old acquaint-
ance in Mr. Humphreys, formerly of the Chupat. colony, but
now settled in Patagones as carpenter. We all met in Mr.
Humphreys's house one Sunday after church, and had a
long talk relative to this Chupat settlement, and to the answer
received to my letter brought by Jackechan's chasqui. The
statement in it that the settlers had no stores of any sort,
and that of the Indian messenger that they were almost
destitute of clothing, have been fully corroborated by the
despatches of Commander Dennistoun, H.M.S. Cracker, pub-
lished whilst these pages were being written. Mr. Hum-
phre3'S considered himself and the few companions who had
accompanied him to the Pio Negro fortunate in having left
when they did ; and all agreed that the colonists would do
better if transferred to the Pio Negro, where those who were
skilled in trades would be able to live in comparative ease,
and the mere labourers find plenty of work, and be able at
any rate to maintain themselves. I cannot but record my
astonishment that Mr. Lewis Jones — who, although I am
not personally acquainted with him, must, from the report
given me by the Indians, be a man of no ordinary under-
standing— should endeavour to maintain the colony in a
place which had formerly been tried by others and aban-
doned as hopeless, the distance of the harbour — thirty miles
off — alone being a certain obstacle to its prosperity.
The visionary scheme of a Welsh Utopia, in pursuit of
which these unfortunate emigrants settled themselves, ought
not to be encouraged, likely as it is to end in the starvation
of the victims to it. Had it not been for the charity of the
816 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
Argentine Government, this must have been their fate ere
now. Jackechan described to me that he had seen the set-
tlers ' eating grass,' and had taught some of them how to
hunt and furnished them with bolas. The Blue Book just
l^ublished confirms the truth of this statement, and perhaps
renders it needless for me to go more into the subject ; but I
must add that, though at that time friendly and well-dis-
posed, this chief considered the settlers as intruders on his
territory, and avowed his intention of demanding payment at
a future time— a refusal of rent being in such a case sure to
be followed by a very summary process of cattle driving and
eviction.
The Rio Negro, with all its drawbacks of Indians, locusts,
floods, and droughts, is certainly infinitely superior to the
Chupat. If the Welsh wish to live as a separate community,
I am sure that Sehor Aguirre will only be too happy to let
them settle on his tract of land between the Upper and
Second Guardia, where already some of their countrymen —
Messrs. Williams and Owen — have taken land.
After the Indians had left, I gave myself over to the enjoy-
ments of social life in Patagones, which did not prove suffi-
cient to reconcile me to the delay consequent on the non-
arrival of the steamer. My days were spent in walking
about, playing billiards, and taking mate ; and a visit in the
evening to Don Domingo's, where a party were in the habit
of meeting to play ' truco ' for sweetmeats. Sometimes we
varied this by calling on some of the fair seiioritas, or spend-
ing the evening at the house of Mr. Davis, the engineer of
the Choelechel, in the company of his amiable senora. All
the young ladies agreed that Patagones was very ' triste,'
especially those who had been to Buenos Ayres, and had
enjoyed the delights of the opera and bands of music in the
Plaza.
On Sundays, after mass and service in the mission station,
attended by all the English, a race would sometimes take
place, or, in default, there would be sure to be a cock fight
held on the south side; at either of which Commandante
Murga invariably attended. There was also a fives court,
where some Basques or natives were generally to be found
Ch. IX.] THE STEAMER AT LAST. 317
plaj'hig. Once or twice I accompanied Dr. Humble — not,
however, on Sunday — in a pull on tlie river. Every day we
looked out anxiously for tlie steamer, whicli had been so long
overdue as to make it appear probable that she had met with
an accident. Tired of the delay, I had just negotiated my
passage in a Dutch schooner laden with grain for Buenos
Ayres, when one evening the steamer arrived, having been
delayed in Bahia Blanca.
In the morning I was agreeably surprised by the size of
the steamer, formerly the Montauk, of Boston, but re-
christened the Patagones, and owned by Messrs. Aguirre aud
Murga. She was pretty well fitted up as regards accommo-
dation, but all the decks, cabins, and every part of her
presented a very dirty appearance.
After two days' stay she hoisted the blue peter, and,
having taken my passage, together with Messrs. Fraser
and Kincaid, who were going to Buenos Ayres on business,
and Mr. Gibb, who was on his return to Europe, repaired on
board, where we found a considerable number of passengers as-
sembled ; the distinguished billiard-marker who had annexed
the clock amongst the number. About 4 p.m. we weighed,
and, bidding adieu to Patagones, started down the river with
the ebb tide, intending to anchor for the night in the Boca
and cross the long line of sandbank, which forms a. dangerous
bar, with the morning tide. We steamed along smoothly
enough until just well within sight of the ships lying in the
Boca, when a sudden concussion announced that she was
ashore on a sandbank, where she stuck hard and fast. We
thought little of the misadventure, expecting to be off at
high tide, and some of us went on shore and pic-nicked on
the flats bordering the river. We returned about ten, and
about midnight I was woke up by hearing one of the funnel
guys snap, and, going on deck, found that, though the bow
of the ship was high out of the water, the stern was in
deep water, and the ship severely straining amidships in
consequence. A few minutes after the main steam pipe
broke : the steam had, however, luckily been turned oflp,
or the consequences would have been disastrous to those in
the after part of the ship. The ladies were then landed.
318 AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS. [Ch. IX.
for fear of accidents, and the remainder of us held a con-
sultation as to how we should get to Buenos Ayres, and
ultimately went to sleep on it.
The following morning the Choelechel came down and
succeeded in towing the vessel off, and the Dutch captain of
the schooner came on board and agreed to take me and some
others on to Buenos Ayres. We accordingly jumped into a
boat, and proceeding down to the Boca, got on board the
schooner, hoping to sail the next day ; but were again
doomed to be disappointed.
The captain went up to buy provisions, and did not return
till late the following evening. Meantime the wind set in
foul in the morning, and the line of roaring white breakers
on the bar showed the impossibility of sailing ; so we were
compelled to wait, looking out on the dreary sand-dunes
which narrowed the entrance to the river on either side.
Some of us went on shore to visit the pilot station, and
had a talk with the pilot, a brave old German or Dutchman.
This veteran and his men had successfully defended his
station against a large force of Indians in the raid of
Lenquetrou. The enemy desired to get possession of a
howitzer which is kept in the station, and the Indians
rushed actually up to the enclosure, while the men fired on
them almost muzzle to their breasts, at last succeeding in
beating them off with immense loss.
The boat's crew consisted of men of all nations. I got
into conversation with one, at first in Spanish, then in
English. After lending me his pipe, he looked hard at me and
said, ' I know you : I am Pat Sweeny, and ran away from
the Sheldrake. What ship did you run away from ? ' I
was not dressed in my best clothes, and looked doubtless
weather beaten enough ; but I recognised mj friend, though
he failed to remember me, and was not enlightened as to my
identity. Several weary days were spent in drinking
schnapps, and ineffectually trying to catch fish, when at last
a fair breeze sprang up, which speedily wafted us out of
sight of the Patagonian shores, and after a boisterous pas-
sage of six days the anchor was dropped off Buenos Ayres.
APPENDIX A.
A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language, as spoken by the
Northern Tehuelches.
English.
Ahonicanka, ob
Tsoneca.
English.
Ahonicanka, or
Tsoneca.
I or mine
ya
jealous
ynaien
you or yours
ma
foolish
chops
his or hers
ti
quick
sourno
this one or hi
) win
good
ketz
who
hem
pretty
coquet
here
nanik
bad
terosh
- mawoori
ill
hammersh
there
- mawook
hot
yporsk
.mon
cold
kekoosh
where
kinik
big
chaish
when
kenoesh
little
talenque
what
ket
light
hoppen
how
heavy
pogelsh
how much
or kinkein kerum
like
nourks
many
far
eouns
above
eok
near
ekel
below
'penk
. immika
similar
waks
tired
wotysk
immediately
marso
hungry
pashlik
to-morrow
nush
difficult
wickemi
yesterday
nusli
hard
chornk
day after
to- eounnush
soft
kattn
morrow
ready
kush
quickly
gemmo
yes
ahon (very gut-
tural)
EXCIAMATIOKS.
no
kompsh
of surprise
wati, wati, wati
man (Indian)
ahonican
of anger
worrioo-walloo
man (Christian)
hachish
curse it
nom-enk y se
people (Indian)
tchonik
on eiTing with wow |
woman (fnarried) karken
the bolas
father
yank
on catching
an kow
mother
yanna
animal or
in
wife
ysher
fighting
son
ykallum
320
AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.
English.
Ahonicanka, oe
TSONECA.
English.
Ahonicanka, or
TsONECA.
brother
yten
spurs
wateren
sister
ystshen
girth
genig
cliildren
coquetra
straps for
securing kaligi
friend or com
- gennow
horses'
legs
panion
whip
wakenem
head
kittar
belt
wati
eyes
otl
sun (or a
day)
gengenko
nose
tchal
moon(o?'amonth) showan
tongue
tal
stars
aaskren
lips
chum
a year
tsor
teeth
oer
fire
yaik
hands
tsicc'r
water
l<5y
legs
noa
snow
gel
feet
shankence
wind
hoshen
toldo or house
kou
rain
tewa
poles for ditto
ho
smoke
paan
hides, ditto
wummum
clouds
pa wall
thongs
cowan
night
queyomen
mantle
kai
wood
kaki
fillet for hair
kotchi
hill
yorri
boots
tsuccre
place
haik
clothes
kakewit
land or cc
untry
yerroen
hat
kor
river
kooua
bolas (three balls) yatschiko
road
nooma
bolas {two balls)
chume
poncho
lecbo
sinews
katz
meat
yipper
lazo
laso
stones
katch
knife
paik^n
rocks
air
gun
gilwum
gi-a?s
pasture
kor
revolver
gilwinikush
oet
powder
tchampum
broth or tea
aasleish
caps
kun
horse
' ewoe
. cawall
lance
waike
pot (for cooking]
askem
cattle
choi
bottle
oetre
sheep
cam pan
barrel
barr
large deei
shoen
(bodkin) needle,
hiillen
guanaco
rou
or nail
ostrich (o
r rhea
1 mikkeoush
bag
hiill
puma
gol
f aniwee
pipe A
^ ^ I couganou
fox
skunk
paltn
wickster
tobacco
golk .
armadillo
ano
saddle
tusk
hare
paahi
bridle
hum
fowls
peyou
bit
kankion
fawn or colt
kooroo
stirrups
keshon
skins
wummun
VOCABULARY.
321
English.
gold
e?g3
bones
grease
a chief
fish
marriage
wild potatoes
sleep
a file
council
ill
ship
gum or rosin
cards
Ahontcanka,
TSONECA.
wiuki
66m
kotsh
tcham
am
gounok
oin
coyenk
appely
shensk
kikeriki
aix
hammersh
youlel
maki
bersen
Colours.
black
white
yellow
green
red
blue
brown o?- bay
piebald
sit down
catch
to be tired
I go
he goes
he has
give me
lend me
write
buy
change
I am tired
I am hungrj-
I am sleepy
to kill
to fight
to sing
chorlo
golwin
waieken
arkum
kaopen
kaliken
soorsh
hogel
pespesh
korigi
ywotisk
yschengs
wansk
heU
moyout
men
aakren
amili
quewarien
wotyskiya
pashlik ya
yshensk
ymuck
ywowesk
vworrish
on f
English.
Hike
to mount
horseback
to race
to send messenger
to talk
I understand
I do not under-
stand
come along
to hunt
to speak
to do a thing
make
to work
to light
to fill
to eat
march
to break
to play
Ahonicanka, or
TSONF.CA.
yshorske ya
amcotts
oin
kattern
wickeni coeto
ayensh
ya omkes
ytonkes
heroschengs
aoukem
kinscott
micheten
maki
tirsk
kaime
meshawr
shehattu
w^en
charsk
nayensh
one
two
three
four
five
six
seven
eight
nine
ten
eleven
twelve
thirteen
Numerals.
chuche
houke
aas
carge
ktsin
winikush
ouk
vdnicarge
humanakoutsen
kcike
chuche kor
houke kor
aas kor
kor added up to twenty
twenty
thirty
forty
fifty
a hundred
a thousand
wommenikukikor
aaseuikaki
cargekaki
ktsinkaki
patack
huaranca
322
AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.
Some Sentences.
English.
Thank you
Lend me the pipe
Catch my horse
Come along-, friend
Will you come out hunting? {Lit.
Come out hunting, tell me.)
The people are fighting
How many are killed ?
Where are you going ?
Cook some meat ; I am hungry
I understand Indian
I like your wife
What do you want ?
It rains much to-day
We are going to see many people
We are going to see another country
Come here quickly
What do you buy ?
Ahonicanka, on Tsoneca.
Nouremi naki
Mon aniwee — aniwee moyout
Korigi ya
Heroschengs gennow
Heros aoukemshaw kiuscott ya
Ywowishk chonik
Kinkeinkerum ymuck
Kinek nis chengs
Herdsh yipper wummi pashlik ya
Onikes Ahonicanka
Ma yshorsks ysher
Keterum karu ?
Chaiske nush que tewa
Wushkaeye seonk chonik
Wushkaeye kaiok yerroen
Gonimo heout witka
Ket, m amli.
I
Wm
APPENDIX B.
Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the Patagonians.
A.D.
1520.
1578.
1591.
1598.
1615.
1669.
1750.
1764.
Pigafetta
Drake
Knyvet
Van Noort
Schouten .
Narhorough
Falkner .
Byron
1766. Wallis
1783.
1829.
Viedma .
UOrbigny
1833. Fitzroy and Darwin
1867-8. Cunningham
The least, taller tlian the tallest men in
Castille.
Not taller than some Englishmen.
Fifteen or sixteen spans high.
Natives of tall statm-e.
Human skeletons 10 or 11 feet long.
Mr. Wood was taller than any of them.
A cacique 7 feet and some inches high.
A chief about 7 feet high, and few of the
others shorter.
Measured some of the tallest : one was
6 feet 7 inches, several 6 feet 5 inches ;
the average height was between 5 feet
10 inches and 6 feet,
Generally 6 feet high.
Never fomid any exceeding 5 feet 1 1 inches ;
average height 5 feet 4 inches.
Tallest average of any people ; average
height 6 feet, some taller and a few
shorter. '
Earely less than 5 feet 1 1 inches in height,
and often exceeding 6 feet by a few
inches. One measured 6 feet 10 inches.
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