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THE  LIBRARY 

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THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH   CONRAD 


Tivelve  hundred  and  Jifty  copies  only  of  this  book 
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'Will  not  be  reprinted  in  this  or  in  any  other  form. 


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AT    SEA    WITH 
JOSEPH  CONRAD 


BY 

J.   G.   SUTHERLAND 

CAPTAIN,  B.N.R. 


WITH    A     FOREWORD     BY 

JOSEPH  CONRAD 


^ 


LONDON 

GRANT   RICHARDS   LTD. 

ST  martin's  street 

1922 


POINTED  IN  Great  Bkitais  by  the  Riveusidc  fREds    Limited 
Edinburgii 


0 


DEDICATED    TO 

MY    SON 

BRIAN  O'HALLORAN  DEVEREUX  SUTHERLAND 


Q' 


LIST   OF   PLATES 


JOSEPH   CONRAD         ....  Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

AT    TARGET    PRACTICE              .  .                  .  .24 

ALL    READY    FOR    SEA                   .  .                   .  .28 

PIT-PROPS    TO    HIDE    GUNS    FROM    AIRCRAFT  .  42 

MR    JOSEPH    CONRAD                 .    .  .                   .  .48 

MR    CONRAD    AT    THE    WHEEL  .                  .  .56 

LIEUTENANT    OSBORNE,    R.N.R.,  AND    MR    CONRAD          .  60 

H.M.S.    "ready"    BECALMED  .                  .  .          I20 

A    STRONG    BREEZE     .                   .  .                   .  .           I24 


AIRSHIP     WHICH      REPORTED      US      AS      A      SUSPICIOUS 
VESSEL    ...... 

TRAWLER     WHICH     LANDED     MR     CONRAD     AT     BRID- 
LINGTON ..... 


138 
140 


FOREWORD 

Dear  Captain  Sutherland, 

When  you  first  told  me  oj 
your  intention  to  publish  a  little  book  about  the 
cruise  of  the'-'-  Ready  "  in  October-November  1 9 1 6, 
and  asked  me  if  I  had  any  objection^  I  told  you  that 
it  was  not  in  my  power  to  raise  an  effective  objection^ 
but  that  in  any  case  the  recollection  of  your  kindness 
during  those  days  when  we  were  shipmates  in  the 
North  Sea  would  have  prevented  me  from  putting 
as  much  as  a  formal  protest  in  your  way.  Having 
taken  that  attitude,  and  the  book  being  now  ready 
for  publication,  I  am  glad  of  this  opportunity  of 
testifying  to  my  regard  for  you,  for  Lieutena?2t 
Osborne,  R.N.R.,  and  for  the  naval  and  civilian 
crews  of  H.M.  Brigantine  "  Ready,''  not  forgetting 
Mr  Moodie,  the  sailing  master,  whose  sterling 
worth  we  all  appreciated  so  ?nuch  both  as  a 
seaman  and  as  a  shipmate. 

I  have  no  doubt  that  your  memories  are  accurate, 
but  as  these  are  exclusively  concerned  with  my 
person  I  am  at  liberty,  without  giving  ofience,  to 

9 


FOREWORD 

confess  that  I  dont  think  they  were  worth  preserv- 
ing in  print.  But  that  is  your  affair.  What  this 
experience  meant  to  me  in  its  outward  sensations  and 
deeper  feelings  must  remain  my  private  possession. 
I  talked  to  very  few  persons  about  it.  I  certainly 
never  imagined  that  any  account  of  that  cruise 
would  come  before  the  public. 

When  the  proofs  of  the  little  book,  which  you 
were  good  enough  to  send  me,  arrived  here,  I  was 
laid  up  and  not  in  a  condition  to  read  anything. 
Afterwards  I  refrained  on  purpose.  After  all, 
these  are  your  own  recollections,  in  which  you  have 
insisted  on  giving  me  a  promine?it  position,  and  the 
fitness  of  them  had  to  be  left  to  your  own  judgment 
and  to  your  own  expression. 

JOSEPH   CONRAD. 

Osivaldsy  Btshopsbourne. 


lO 


CHAPTER   I 

"  The    Brotherhood    of  the    Sea   is   no    mere 
empty  phrase." 

In  these  words  Mr  Joseph  Conrad  ended  a 
letter  which  he  sent  to  me  on  his  arrival 
home  after  what  was,  without  doubt,  the  most 
memorable  and  exciting  experience  of  his 
seafaring  career. 

It  was  in  the  winter  of  19 16,  when  the 
Kaiser  decided  to  redouble  his  submarine 
warfare,  that  my  story  begins. 

Ships  were  being  sunk  right  and  left,  the 
German  submarine  commanders  taking  advan- 
tage of  every  kind  of  frightfulness,  even  the 
sinking  at  sight  of  neutral  sailing  craft  which 
were  engaged  only  in  their  ordinary  commercial 
pursuits  and  which  had  no  other  end  in  view 
than  the  carriage  of  their  products  and  manu- 
factures to  the  markets  of  other  countries. 
The  neutrals  flew  their  colours  at  their  mast- 
heads or  from  their  gaffs,  and  on  their  sides 
had  painted  large  ensigns  from  deck  to  water- 
line,  leaving  no  loophole  for  the  non-observance 
of  International  law. 

II 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

It  was  in  such  a  small  sailing  vessel,  during 
the  height  of  a  particularly  severe  winter, 
that  Conrad  set  sail  across  the  North  Sea  to 
work  on  the  trade  routes  between  Scotland, 
Norway  and  Denmark,  where  at  the  time  the 
enemy  was  most  active,  on  what  he  described 
as  his  "  joyful  experience  of  U-boat  hunting." 

I  met  Conrad  in  peculiarly  fortunate  cir- 
cumstances. It  was  at  Granton,  a  small  port 
within  easy  reach  of  Edinburgh,  where  I  was 
employed  as  Commander  of  Minesweeping 
Trawlers.  Curiously  enough,  it  was  on  the 
same  day  that,  tired  of  the  dull  monotony  of 
minesweeping,  I  applied  for  and  was  appointed 
to  the  command  of  H.M.S.  brigantine  Ready^ 
the  first  sailing  ship  to  be  commissioned  for 
active  service  in  the  Great  War.  During  the 
afternoon  I  had  been  visualising  the  possi- 
bilities of  a  fight  under  sail  against  a  war 
vessel  which  depended  not  on  wind  power 
for  manoeuvring  in  action,  but  worked  under 
the  most  modern  and  scientific  conditions  both 
on  the  surface  and  under  water.  I  knew 
full  well  that  the  odds  were  all  against  the 
brigantine,  but  the  sheer  joy  of  being  in  action 
with  an  enemy  vessel  appealed  to  me  above 
all   other   things.      I    had   scarcely   arrived   at 

12 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

this  conclusion  when  I  was  sent  for  by  the 
Commodore,  and  on  entering  his  office  found 
him  chatting  on  things  in  general,  and  the 
work  of  the  Base  in  particular,  with  a  stranger 
whose  appearance  struck  me  as  being  very 
much  out  of  the  ordinary.  He  was  seated 
close  to  the  window,  with  legs  crossed,  listen- 
ing intently  to  the  Commodore  and,  as  I 
thought,  making  mental  notes  of  his  conversa- 
tion. I  waited  cap  in  hand,  standing  very  much 
at  attention,  to  hear  my  senior  officer's  wishes, 
during  which  time  I  had  ample  opportunity 
of  studying  his  visitor. 

My  first  impression  was  of  a  man  of  about 
middle  age,  extremely  well  groomed,  with 
dark  hair  of  which  he  had  a  plentiful  supply, 
closely  cropped  beard  and  moustache  with  the 
slightest  tinge  of  greyness,  a  manner  courtly 
in  the  extreme,  a  fine,  clever,  sun-tanned  face 
which  betokened  an  outdoor  life,  with  that 
very  kindly  smile  which  one  associates  with 
a  person  thoroughly  interested  in  the  world 
and  its  doings,  and  seeing  only  the  bright  side 
of  things.  He  wore  a  monocle,  which  added 
to  an  appearance  already  distinguished,  and 
during  every  lull  in  the  conversation  he 
turned    to    me    with    a    look    significant    of 


i^. 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

apology  for  the  delay  which  I  was  being 
subjected  to.  I  felt  this  and  by  looks  tried 
to  reassure  him,  so  that  I  should  have  longer 
time  to  make  up  my  mind  as  to  who  and 
what  he  was.  He  appeared  to  be  familiar 
with  expressions  used  by  seamen,  and  used 
them  himself  in  his  questions  and  replies  to 
the  Commodore.  This  led  me  to  conclude 
that  he  was  a  high  naval  personage  of  an 
Allied  Power  :  high,  because  he  conversed 
with  the  Commodore  on  an  equality — the 
latter  being  Admiral  Sir  James  Startin,  K.C.B., 
one  of  those  fine  old  types  of  naval  officers 
who  resigned  their  commissions  in  the  Royal 
Navy  to  accept  commissions  in  the  junior 
ranks  of  the  Royal  Naval  Reserve,  so  that  his 
age  would  not  preclude  him  from  serving  his 
country  ;  Allied,  because  he  spoke  with  the 
slightest  trace  of  a  foreign  accent.  He  did 
not  speak  like  a  Frenchman  and  certainly  did 
not  look  Italian.  While  I  was  still  wonder- 
ing, the  Commodore  rose  from  his  seat  and 
introduced  me  to  none  other  than  Conrad 
himself,  whose  books  I  had  read  and  re-read, 
whose  characters  I,  from  my  wanderings  as 
a  seaman,  seemed  to  have  met  without  acquir- 
ing that  insight  into  their  characters,  lovable 

H 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

and  otherwise,  which  he,  with  his  extra- 
ordinary faculty  of  understanding  the  greatness 
and  smallness  of  their  natures,  portrayed  with 
such  wonderful  exactness  in  his  books.  I  was 
intensely  proud  to  meet  him,  and  said  so  ; 
indeed  I  expressed  my  admiration  in  a  manner 
which  seemed  to  cause  him  no  little  em- 
barrassment, but  which  he  was  good  enough 
to  say  he  appreciated,  in  a  manner  indicative 
of  the  modesty  which  (I  was  to  learn  later) 
was  characteristic  of  the  man. 

The  Commodore  instructed  me  to  show 
Mr  Conrad  everything  there  was  to  be  seen 
— ships,  guns,  torpedoes,  devices  for  disguise 
and  indicator  nets  for  trapping  enemy  sub- 
marines whose  commanders  might  be  daring 
and  foolish  enough  to  attempt  to  enter  our 
harbours.  The  latter,  in  both  construction 
and  working,  were  very  ingenious  and  compli- 
cated, necessitating  quite  a  lengthy  explanation 
to  the  average  seaman  and  even  to  fishermen, 
who  as  a  rule  know  everything  there  is  to 
know  about  nets  of  every  description.  Conrad 
could  not  have  seen  this  contrivance  before, 
but  his  quick  brain  grasped  the  whole  situation 
at  once,  all  his  surmises  being  absolutely 
correct  in  every  detail.     The  drift  nets,  which, 

15 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

as  their  name  indicates,  are  towed  by  drifters 
and  fitted  with  explosive  mines,  were  next 
shown  to  him,  and  with  his  seaman-like  in- 
tuition he  had  the  whole  working  of  them  at 
his  finger-ends  before  I  had  time  to  explain 
the  methods  of  their  use.  Indeed,  trained  as 
he  was  in  the  old  sailing  clippers,  Conrad  had 
almost  uncanny  powers  for  instantly  gripping 
everything  connected  with  wires,  ropes,  rigging 
and  the  innumerable  different  uses  to  which 
material  necessary  to  the  working  of  ships  by 
shipmen  could  be  put. 

Having  carried  out  my  Commodore's  wishes 
to  the  letter,  we  adjourned  to  my  cabin,  where 
Conrad,  having  seated  himself,  was  silent  for 
some  minutes,  due  possibly  to  turning  over  in 
his  mind  the  numerous  and  well  thought-out 
traps  which  to  the  seaman  side  of  his  nature 
were  a  revelation.  The  arrival  of  my  steward 
with  refreshments  awoke  him  from  his  reverie, 
and  it  was  then  that  I  casually  mentioned  my 
appointment  as  commander  of  the  brigantine. 
The  effect  of  my  remark  was  electrical  : 
Conrad  was  a  changed  man  ;  his  whole  face 
lit  up  ;  he  was  not  now  listening  to  parrot-like 
explanations  of  war  measures,  but  to  something 
that  interested  him  more   than  anything    he 

i6 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

had  seen  or  heard.      "  A  brigantine  at  war  !  " 

Had  he  heard  aright  ?     A  brigantine,  in  days 

of  super-dreadnoughts,   battle    cruisers,    light 

cruisers   and    forty-knot    destroyers,    any    one 

of  which  could  have  destroyed  the  whole  of 

Nelson's  squadrons   at   Trafalgar  !      I    assured 

him  that  such  was  actually  the  case,  and  he 

begged  that  he  might  be  allowed  to  accompany 

me,  to  which  I,  as  far  as  it  lay  in  my  power, 

joyously    agreed.      He  asked  more  about  the 

vessel,  and  I  felt  it  my  duty  to  tell  him  that 

the    craft    was    seventy    years    old,  falling    to 

pieces,  leaking   like  a  sieve,  and  was   at   the 

time  being  patched  up  in  a  dry  dock  at  Dundee. 

Having  given  him  this  information,  I  feared 

the  pleasure  of  his  company  might  be  denied 

me  ;  but  I  had  mistaken  my  man.     The  call 

of  the  sea,  the  spice  of  adventure,  the  thought 

of  living  as  one  of  the  characters  created   by 

his  wonderful  and  imaginative  brain,  of  again 

pacing  the  deck  of  a  ship,  sailing  with  every 

stitch  of  canvas  set,  or  lying  hove-to  under  a 

reefed  fore-topsail,  and  main-staysail   was  too 

much  to  miss,  and  there  and  then  we  proceeded 

to  the  Commodore  as  a  first  step  to  gain  his 

sanction  to  approach  the  Admiralty.      At  the 

outset  he  was  all  against  such   a  proposition. 
B  17 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Indeed  he  painted  the  Ready  even  worse 
than  she  was,  which  was  saying  something, 
and  as  an  alternative  he  offered  Conrad  a 
cruise  on  any  other  vessel  under  his  com- 
mand, including  mystery  steam  vessels,  steam 
yachts,  mine-sweepers,  patrol  vessels  or  motor 
launches.  But  Conrad  held  out.  He  wanted 
the  sailing  vessel  —  nothing  else  would  do. 
And  after  much  persuasion  the  Commodore 
went  as  far  as  to  say  that  he  personally 
had  no  objection,  though  of  course  Ad- 
miralty approval  would  first  have  to  be 
obtained. 

I  am  unable  to  say  whether  or  not  the 
Commodore  addressed,  or  rather  submitted, 
the  usual  type  of  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Admiralty,  from  whose  office  it  would  cir- 
culate until  it  finally  reached  the  department 
concerned,  or  whether  Conrad  had  a  "friend 
at  Court  "  at  the  Admiralty  !  All  I  know  was 
that  approval  was  received,  and  in  my  anxiety 
to  have  Conrad  with  me  I  didn't  much  care 
how  it  was  arranged,  and  never  discussed  it 
with  him. 

Two  years  later,  in  reading  Rear-Admiral 
Sir    Douglas    Brownrigg's    delightful    articles 

published   in   The  Daily   Telegraph   under  the 

i8 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

heading  of"  Indiscretions  of  the  Naval  Censor," 
I  came  across  the  following  : — 

"  I  can  honestly  say  now  the  war  is  over 
that  no  man  has  seen  as  much  as  Mr  Conrad 
saw  in  those  few  months  when  he  was  going 
round  observing  all  the  various  sorts  of  work 
the  Mercantile  Marine  was  performing.  I 
even  got  permission  for  him  to  go  out  in  one 
of  the  Q-boats  which  were  at  that  time  more 
or  less  in  their  infancy.  I  should  say  that 
when  I  got  him  permission  this  perhaps  should 
not  be  taken  au  pied  de  la  lettre.  I  asked  the 
imperturbable  Chief  of  the  Staff  (Admiral 
Sir  Henry  Oliver)  if  I  might  send  him  out. 
He  looked  up  at  me,  merely  saying,  '  I  don't 
want  to  know  anything  about  it,'  went  on 
writing  and  smoking  his  pipe,  so  I  darted  out 
of  the  room,  knowing  that  I  could  go  ahead 
and  that  all  I  had  to  do  was  to  square  the 
Senior  Naval  Officer  at  the  port  of  departure, 
which  I  did  !  In  due  course,  therefore,  Mr 
Conrad  went  for  a  cruise  in  a  Q-boat." 

The  Q-boat  was,  of  course,  the  brigantine 
under  my  command.  I  do  not  suppose  that 
to    this    day    Sir    Douglas   Brownrigg   knows 

19 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

how  very  much  I  helped  him  to  square  that 
Senior  Naval  Officer  ! 

The  same  evening  I  took  my  leave  of 
Conrad,  with  a  faithful  promise  that  I  would 
not  "  let  him  down  "  ;  also  that  I  would  keep 
him  informed  of  my  movements. 

Later  in  the  evening  I  was  discussing  the 
cruise  with  the  Commodore.  He  remarked 
that  he  was  undecided  as  to  the  wisdom  of 
allowing  Mr  Conrad  to  come  with  me  ;  he 
was  afraid  that  owing  to  his  European  reputa- 
tion he  might  be  well  known  to  agents  of 
the  Central  Powers,  and  if  we  came  off  second 
best  in  a  scrap  and  he  were  taken  prisoner,  he 
might  be  treated  as  a  non-combatant  and  get 
short  shrift.  For  this  reason  he  felt  he  was 
taking  a  great  responsibility,  and  thought  that 
he  ought  to  cancel  his  permission.  I,  how- 
ever, talked  him  over  by  saying  that  no  one 
knew  better  than  Conrad  the  risk  he  was  tak- 
ing, and  as  long  as  he  was  prepared  to  accept 
it  there  need  be  no  opposition  on  his  (the 
Commodore's)  part.  Eventually  he  gave  in, 
much  to  my  great  joy. 


20 


CHAPTER    II 

I  NOW  proceeded  to  pick  my  First  Lieutenant 
from  innumerable  officers  who  had  volunteered 
to  come  with  me.  My  choice  fell  on  Lieu- 
tenant Henry  Osborne,  R.N.R.,  a  great,  strap- 
ping, lovable,  good-looking  fellow,  to  whom 
hard  work  was  life  itself,  and  who  had  that 
rare  gift  of  getting  work  out  of  men  with  a 
feeling  that  they  liked  it.  We  had  been  mine- 
sweeping  together  for  a  considerable  time  and 
I  had  marked  him  down  as  a  man  who  would 
go  through  anything. 

The  following  morning,  having  packed 
away  our  uniforms  overnight,  we  proceeded 
in  mufti,  in  order  not  to  excite  suspicion,  to 
join  the  Ready  at  Dundee. 

Having  inspected  her,  I  found  she  was  in 
a  worse  condition  than  I  had  anticipated. 
The  foot  of  the  foremast  was  worm-eaten  and 
so  rotten  that  steel  bands  were  necessary  to 
keep  it  together,  and  the  rest  of  her — hull, 
spars,  rigging  and  sails — was  in  a  deplorable 
condition.  I  had  a  strong  feeling  that  I 
ought  to  send  Conrad  a  full  and  true  report  of 

21 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

my  inspection,  but  on  second  thoughts  decided 
not  to  do  so,  because  it  would  not  in  any  way 
affect  his  decision  to  sail  with  me,  and — well, 
because  I  very  much  wanted  him  to  come. 

Two  weeks  later  the  old  craft  was  considered 
sufficiently  patched,  caulked  and  pitched  to 
leave  the  dry  dock,  but  on  taking  the  water, 
like  old  wine  in  new  bottles,  we  found  that 
new  planking  and  old  timber  did  not  go  well 
together,  with  the  result  that  the  cuddy  and 
lower  forecastle  were  flooded  out.  More 
patching,  more  caulking  and  more  pitching, 
however,  rendered  her  sufficiently  seaworthy 
to  proceed  to  sea  (a  Board  of  Trade  Certificate 
fortunately  was  not  necessary  ! )  and  a  day  or 
two  later  we  set  sail  for  St  Andrews  Bay. 

I  have  given  the  foregoing  description  of 
the  vessel  in  order  to  show  that  Conrad's  life 
during  his  U-boat  hunting  experiences  in  the 
North  Sea,  in  the  depth  of  a  very  severe 
winter,  was  not  spent  in  a  luxuriously  fitted 
warship — which  would  have  been  bad  enough 
in  all  conscience — but  in  a  very  old,  water- 
logged derelict,  without  the  slightest  pre- 
tensions to  comfort  of  any  sort. 

On  my  arrival  at  St  Andrews  Bay  I 
dispatched  a  wire  to  Conrad's  home  requesting 


22 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

him  to  join  me  forty-eight  hours  later,  as  after 
that  time  I  proposed  to  sail  at  the  first  favour- 
able opportunity.  He  came  north  the  same 
night,  fearful  lest  we  should  depart  without 
him. 

Our  guns,  ammunition,  bedding  and  stores, 
consumable  and  otherwise,  were  sent  round 
by  trawlers  from  Granton  and  transferred  to 
us  whilst  at  anchor  in  the  bay — this,  of  course, 
to  outwit  any  enemy  spies  who  might  be 
lurking  at  Dundee. 

At  the  time  I  did  not  know  that  Conrad 
had  come  north  so  hurriedly,  and,  as  I  did  not 
communicate  with  the  shore,  he,  I  am  sorry 
to  say,  had  to  spend  a  matter  of  thirty-six 
hours  at  a  hotel  overlooking  the  famous  golf- 
course.  He  had  received  instructions  from 
the  Admiralty  not  to  send  wires  or  give  any 
information  of  the  proposed  cruise,  so  that  he 
was  "  between  the  devil  and  the  deep  sea  "  as 
to  what  he  should  do. 

However,  on  the  third  morning  I  requested 
the  lieutenant  in  command  of  H. M.S.  Zedwhale^ 
at  anchor  close  by,  to  proceed  on  shore,  look 
for  Mr  Conrad  and  offer  him  a  passage  off. 
He  had  not  far  to  look,  as  Conrad  met  him 
on  landing,  and  having  introduced  himself,  was 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

given  my  message,  and  half-an-hour  later  was 
on  board. 

During  the  preceding  two  days  the  four 
twelve-pounder  guns  had  been  mounted,  and 
during  the  fore  and  after  noons  the  guns'  crews 
were  drilled  to  the  highest  point  of  perfec- 
tion. They  were  changed  round  in  order 
that  each  member  of  the  crew  might  under- 
stand each  other's  work  and  could,  if  neces- 
sary, become  captains  of  the  guns.  We  had 
imaginary  casualties,  so  that  loaders,  if  neces- 
sary, could,  in  addition  to  their  own  work,  do 
the  duties  of  Nos.  i,  2,  or  sight-setters.  Guns' 
crews  on  the  off  side,  not  engaged  in  action, 
were  practised  in  filling  up  casualties  at  the 
guns,  or  in  passing  up  ammunition  from 
the  hold.  The  "  panic  party,"  consisting  of 
the  sailing  crew,  was  drilled  in  hoisting  the 
boat  out  and  scrambling  into  it  for  the  purpose 
of  abandoning  the  ship  when  ordered  to  do  so 
by  signal  from  the  enemy,  as  was  their  custom 
before  sending  a  party  on  board  to  destroy  the 
vessel  with  time-fuse  bombs. 

When  Conrad  came  on  board  I  introduced 
Osborne  and  Moodie  the  sailing  master. 
With  the  former  he  conversed  at  length 
on   present-day   discipline    in    the    Mercantile 

24 


AT  'I'AKc.rcr  rkA("Tit'K 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Marine.  Osborne  had,  just  previous  to  the 
war,  been  made  mate  of  a  four-masted,  full- 
rigged  ship,  so  that  they  were  on  common 
ground,  and  discussed  matters  with  which 
,they  were  both  conversant.  Conrad  was  glad 
to  hear  that  the  old  discipline  as  he  knew  it 
still  prevailed  ;  that  the  master,  by  ancient 
usage,  had  still  the  undisputed  right  to  the 
weather  side  of  the  poop,  and  all  the  power 
and  authority,  unaided  by  any  kind  of  force, 
which  Master  Mariners  through  the  ages  had 
built  up  for  themselves,  and  against  whose 
spoken  word  there  was  no  appeal. 

Moodie,  a  shy,  retiring,  soft-spoken  man, 
charmed  him.  He  was  different  in  every 
way  from  the  skippers  he  had  coasted  with, 
or  imagined  other  coasting  skippers  to  be. 
Moodie,  too,  was  able  to  tell  him  how  an 
enemy  submarine  had  sunk  his  schooner,  and 
now  that  he  was  in  an  armed  ship  he  was 
going  to  try  very  hard  to  get  his  own  back. 

A  little  later  I  asked  Conrad  what  his 
first  impressions  were  on  coming  on  board. 
"  Different,"  he  replied,  "  from  anything  I 
imagined.  Instead  of  decks  holystoned  like 
a  yacht,  brasswork  polished  mirror-like,  and 
everything  to  the  last  rope-yarn  in  its  place, 

25 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

your  ship  seemed  full  of  men,  your  decks 
lumbered  and  littered  with  all  sorts  of  engines 
of  destruction  and  ammunition,  depth  charges, 
lance  bombs  and  disguises  ;  and  I  wondered 
if  it  would  be  possible  to  enjoy  just  one 
fragrant  weed  without  running  the  risk  of 
being  blown  sky  high." 

Needless  to  say,  the  decks  were  cleared 
before  we  put  to  sea,  and  Conrad  was  able  to 
enjoy  not  one,  but  many,  though  I  am  afraid 
the  decks  never  reached  that  state  of  perfec- 
tion with  which  his  captain,  Jasper  Allen,  of 
the  brig  Bonita  would  have  been  content.  At 
the  same  time,  what  would  the  gallant  Jasper 
not  have  given  for  the  armament  of  my  almost 
derelict  ship  when  the  Dutch  Lieutenant 
Heemskirk  deliberately  piled  his  beloved  brig 
on  the  Tamissa  Reef  outside  Makassar  ! 

For  an  hour  in  the  afternoon  Conrad  was 
left  to  himself,  during  which  time  he  pene- 
trated everywhere,  talked  to  each  member  of 
the  crew  and  knew  everybody  long  before  I 
did.  He  learned  that  afternoon  that  the  wire- 
less operator  was  in  civil  life  a  bank  clerk, 
and  that  his  name  was  Musgrove.  He  was 
equally  well  acquainted  with  the  names  and 
occupations  of  each  other  individual  as  well, 

26 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

including  my  own  ;  for  I  too  had  told  him 
everything  there  was  to  be  told  almost  before 
I  knew  him.  He  was  sympathetic,  extremely 
so,  and  strongly  appealed  to  one.  He  was 
never  inquisitive,  never  wanted  to  know  any- 
thing which  the  whole  world  could  not  have 
known  equally  well.  His  human  side  was 
very  human,  and  I  suppose  it  was  that  which 
appealed  so  strongly  to  others  and  which 
made  men  trust  him. 


27 


CHAPTER    III 

The  same  evening  we  weighed  anchor  and 
were  towed  out  of  St  Andrews  Bay,  having 
on  board  the  Commodore  and  his  staff,  who 
had  come  from  Granton  by  sea  to  inspect  the 
Ready  and  to  witness  our  gunnery  practice. 
A  target  was  laid  out  at  2000  yards'  range. 
The  guns  were  loaded,  the  captains  of  the 
guns  being  picked  men,  and  highly  trained 
gunners  lined  their  eyes  along  the  sights.  At 
the  order  "  Fire  !  "  they  pressed  their  triggers, 
and  the  target  was  knocked  endways.  A  new 
target  was  dropped,  and  at  3000  yards'  fire 
was  again  opened  with  equally  good  results. 

Practice  was  then  carried  out  at  longer 
ranges  and  under  more  varied  conditions,  and 
continued  until  the  Commodore  had  satisfied 
himself  that  further  firing  was  unnecessary. 

Conrad  had  been  watching  through  his 
marine  glasses,  and  remarked  on  the  fall  of 
each  shot  which  either  hit  the  target  or 
landed  within  a  sufficiently  measurable  distance 
not  to  miss  a  submarine,  offering  as  it  would 
a  much  larger  surface  ;  and  he  expressed  his 


ALL    READY    FOR    SKA 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

great  delight  at  the  superb  accuracy  of  the 
gunners,  congratulating  them  personally  on 
their  high  standard  of  excellence.  He  re- 
marked to  me  that  no  unarmoured  vessel  could 
have  withstood  the  withering  fire  from  our 
guns,  and  that  the  odds,  as  he  conceived  them 
to  be,  had  very  considerably  lessened  against 
the  brigantine. 

It  was  a  toss  up  between  foolhardiness  and 
cunning,  and  after  some  discussion  we  backed 
our  cunning. 

Before  the  target  practice  the  shooting 
abilities  of  our  gunners  was  an  unknown 
quantity  ;  now  we  were  satisfied  that  if  the 
enemy  adhered  to  his  usual  procedure  of  first 
interrogating  masters  before  sinking  their 
vessels  it  would  be  a  hundred  to  one  on  us. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  he  were  suspicious  and 
torpedoed  us  without  warning,  we  should 
be  given  short  shrift.  This  last  possibility 
was  thrashed  out  at  some  length  ;  but  as  the 
brigantine  was,  in  actual  value,  about  half  the 
cost  of  a  modern  torpedo,  and  as  she  was  flying 
light,  showing  that  no  cargo  was  carried,  we 
decided  that  it  was  an  unlikely  one. 

Conrad  here  asked  me  who  on  earth  con- 
ceived   the   idea   of  sending    a    small    sailing 

29 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

vessel  out  to  fight  submarines.  He  knew 
that  the  fighting  men  in  Flanders  in  this,  the 
twentieth,  century  had  adopted  methods  of 
offence  and  defence  which  were  not  even 
hinted  at  in  the  text-books,  and  were  more 
in  keeping  with  battles  between  early  day 
warriors  ;  but  to  send  a  very  old  wooden  sail- 
ing vessel,  which  Nelson  would  have  disowned 
as  a  fighting  unit,  to  hunt  for  and  give  battle 
to  a  type  of  craft  which  had  already  destroyed 
battleships  and  cruisers,  amazed  him.  He 
was  somewhat  surprised  when  I  told  him  that 
the  idea  was  not  conceived  by  the  Admiralty, 
not  even  by  a  professional  seaman,  but  by  a 
purely  business  man,  head  of  one  of  the  largest 
manufacturing  industries  in  the  country,  who, 
on  the  outbreak  of  the  war,  surrendered  every- 
thing, and  accepted  a  junior  commission  in 
the  R.N.V.R.  on  board  one  of  H.M.  sea-going 
vessels.  Later  on,  this  man,  by  sheer  ability 
and  powers  of  organisation,  was  promoted  to 
the  rank  of  commander,  and  appointed  as 
Senior  Staff  Oflicer  at  Granton,  then  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  important  Bases  on  the 
East  Coast. 

Conrad  was  greatly  interested,  and  wished 
to  know  more  about  him — how  the  idea  came 

30 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

to  him,  and  who  he  was.  I  was  glad  of  this, 
as  it  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  paying  a 
tribute  to  the  Royal  Naval  Volunteer  Reserve, 
and  to  Commander  Kenneth  Walker,  the 
originator  of  the  idea,  and  certainly  the  ablest 
and  most  capable  Volunteer  Officer  with 
whom  I  had  been  brought  in  contact  during 
the  war. 

It  was  one  of  this  officer's  duties  to  examine 
the  credentials  of,  and  to  gain  as  much  in- 
formation as  possible  from,  masters  of  neutral 
vessels  arriving  in  the  Firth  of  Forth  ;  and 
from  many  of  these  he  learnt  that  they  had 
repeatedly  been  stopped  on  their  passage  across 
the  North  Sea,  and  questioned  by  commanders 
of  German  submarines  as  to  movements  of 
British  war  vessels.  (This  was,  of  course,  pre- 
vious to  the  Kaiser's  orders  to  sink  everything, 
regardless  of  nationality.) 

Commander  Walker  discussed  the  possi- 
bilities of  fitting  out  such  a  vessel  and  sailing 
her  under  a  neutral  flag  with  Commander 
W.  H.  S.  Ball,  R.N.,  the  technical  expert  of 
the  Base  ;  and  the  idea  having  received  his 
blessing,  they  both  approached  the  Commodore, 
who  agreed  to  ask  for  Admiralty  sanction. 

Endless  correspondence  followed  with  the 
31 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Admiralty,  their  Lordships  not  at  all  approving 
of  the  scheme.  Commander  Walker,  being 
a  successful  business  man,  and  not  used  to 
having  his  propositions  turned  aside,  pressed 
still  further,  going  as  far  as  to  offer  to  pur- 
chase and  fit  out  a  vessel  at  his  own  expense, 
the  result  being  the  gaining  of  Admiralty 
sanction  for  the  purchase  of  and  commission- 
ing of  the  brigantine  Ready. 

During  this  conversation  v^ith  Conrad  the 
Commodore,  who  had  been  inspecting  the 
sleeping  quarters  with  Osborne,  approached 
and  directed  me  to  assemble  the  officers,  petty 
officers  and  crew  men  on  the  quarter-deck. 

Having  reported  everybody  aft,  he  asked 
each  man  in  turn  if  he  still  wished  to  sail  in 
the  ship,  assuring  him  that  failure  to  do  so 
would  in  no  way  prejudice  him  or  affect  his 
future.  But  each  man  had  made  up  his  mind 
to  sail,  and  said  so.  The  Commodore  then 
asked  Conrad  if  he  still  persisted  in  such  a 
dangerous  undertaking,  to  which  he  smilingly 
replied  that  he  "  would  not  miss  the  oppor- 
tunity for  worlds."  I  was  thanking  my  stars 
that  the  inspection  was  over,  and  that  we  should 
soon  be  under  way,  when  the  Commodore 
suggested  that  I  should  return  to  St  Andrews 

32 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

and  anchor  there  for  another  day,  for  what 
reason  I  do  not  know,  unless  it  could  possibly 
have  been  some  premonition  of  disaster.  He 
himself  did  not  know  what  fear  was  ;  indeed, 
he  seemed  to  have  been  fighting  all  his  life. 
For  his  services  in  the  Zulu  War  he  received 
promotion  and  was  mentioned  in  dispatches. 
In  the  Egyptian  War,  1882,  he  landed  with 
the  Naval  Brigade.  Further  promotion  and 
mention  in  dispatches  came  to  him  in  the 
Benin  War,  and  in  the  China  War  he 
commanded  H.M.S.  Arethusa.  He  wore  the 
Silver  and  Bronze  Medals  with  two  clasps 
for  saving  life,  on  one  occasion  jumping  fully 
dressed  from  the  quarter-deck  of  one  of  his 
Majesty's  ships  and  saving  the  life  of  a  seaman 
who  had  fallen  overboard.  He  was  sixty- 
three  years  of  age  when  he  won  the  Albert 
Medal  (the  civilian  V.C.)  for  descending  into 
the  cabin  of  a  burning  motor  launch  to  make 
sure  there  was  no  one  left  on  board.  His 
absolute  fearlessness  was  a  byword  in  the 
Navy.  I  felt,  therefore,  that  to  obtain  his 
consent  I  had  only  to  say  how  very  anxious 
we  all  were  to  go.  He  was  not  a  man  easily 
overruled,  and  if  he  decided  against  a  thing 
he  was  always  right.     At  the  same  time,  he 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

listened  to  everybody  and  carefully  weighed 
the  facts  on  both  sides.  Daring  and  keenness 
appealed  to  him  above  everything,  and  the 
humblest  rating  under  his  command  with  any 
idea  of  originality  would  get  the  same  hear- 
ing from  him  as  would  his  "  Second  in 
Command."  I  simply  said  :  "  I  would  rather 
go,  sir,"  and  without  any  more  ado  he  gave 
us  permission. 


34 


CHAPTER    IV 

It  was  now  getting  dusk.  The  Commodore 
had  taken  his  leave  of  us,  with  parting  in- 
structions to  keep  the  colours  flying.  Conrad 
entrusted  a  small  parcel  to  the  Admiral's  cox- 
swain to  be  posted  to  his  literary  agent,  and 
a  few  minutes  later  we  were  entirely  on  our 
own. 

The  order  to  "  away  aloft "  was  obeyed 
with  alacrity  by  the  sailing  crew.  Sails  were 
loosened,  buntlines  and  clewlines  overhauled, 
and  with  the  guns'  crew  manning  the  halyards 
and  sheets  all  sail  was  soon  made. 

There  was  one  hitch,  a  slight  difficulty  in 
hoisting  the  upper  topsail  yard.  I  had  not 
been  in  charge  of  a  sailing  ship  for  twenty-two 
years,  and  well  do  I  remember  giving  the 
order  to  let  go  the  topgallant  sheets — an 
important  detail  which  had  been  overlooked. 
I  was  glad  of  this,  as  I  then  felt  I  had  forgotten 
nothing  ;  also  it  was  an  opportunity  of  con- 
vincing the  sailing  crew  (a  very  conservative 
lot)  that  I  was  not  a  "  steam-boat  sailor  " — a 
thing  of  contempt  to  the  sailing-ship  mariner. 

35 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

We  got  away  before  a  following  wind,  and 
were  soon  clear  of  the  land,  when  we  were 
overhauled  by  a  destroyer  on  patrol  duty,  the 
commander  of  which  asked  us  our  business. 
Osborne,  disguised  in  a  bowler  hat  and  a  thick 
muffler,  with  a  very  much  torn,  double-breasted, 
threadworn,  blue  serge  coat,  to  say  nothing  of 
a  clay  pipe,  which  he  considered  part  and 
parcel  of  a  coasting  mate's  equipment,  replied  : 
"  Hunting  for  a  submarine." 

The  destroyer's  commander,  evidently  not 
having  heard  of  Q-boats  in  those  early 
days,  then  humorously  inquired  what  we 
proposed  to  do  with  it  when  we  found  it  ; 
to  which  Osborne  as  humorously  replied  : 
"  Hoist  it  on  board  and  tame  it."  This 
settled  the  matter,  and  we  were  allowed  to 
proceed. 

All  sail  now  being  set,  and  the  vessel  mak- 
ing good  headway,  the  guns'  crews  disappeared 
to  their  quarters  below  deck,  in  accordance 
with  instructions,  well  drilled  into  them,  that 
they  should  not  show  their  faces  above  the 
gunwale  during  the  hours  of  daylight,  unless 
specially  ordered  to  do  so.  This  was  in  case 
a  U-boat  commander,  looking  through  the 
periscope  of  a  lurking  enemy  submarine,  should 


36 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

consider  the  vessel  overmanned,  and  become 
suspicious. 

Moodie,  the  sailing  master,  was  at  the 
wheel.  Osborne  was  busy  about  the  disguises 
which  were  to  be  carried  out  after  dark,  test- 
ing the  night  sights  for  the  guns,  and  setting 
the  watches  for  the  night. 

I  was  standing  aft  with  Conrad  with  an 
Admiralty  Confidential  Square  Chart  spread 
out  on  the  skylight  in  front  of  us.  On  his 
asking  me  where  I  proposed  to  steer  for,  I 
pointed  to  the  square  where  the  Germans 
were  at  the  time  sinking  Scandinavian  sailing 
craft,  and  informed  him  that  on  reaching 
that  position  I  should  cruise  about  in  the 
neighbourhood  for  some  days.  Conrad  then 
laid  off  the  course  with  the  parallel  rulers, 
measured  the  distance  by  compasses,  looked 
up  the  flow  of  the  tides  from  the  sailing 
directions,  and  indeed  took  such  a  keen  interest 
in  the  navigation  of  the  vessel  that  I  then 
and  there  suggested  that  he  and  Osborne 
should  act  as  joint  navigators,  which  he 
readily  consented  to  do. 

Everything  seemed  now  to  be  fairly  snug, 
and  we  were  beginning  to  feel  the  pangs  of 
hunger  when  the  cook  approached  with  the 

37 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

joyful  information  that  the  evening  meal  was 
prepared.  It  was  laid  in  the  cuddy,  and, 
leaving  Moodie  in  charge  of  the  deck,  we 
three  descended,  Conrad  taking  up  his  place 
in  the  corner  of  the  port  side,  which  place 
he  kept  during  the  remainder  of  the  cruise. 
The  meal  was  very  enjoyable. 

Conrad  was  very  curious  to  know  more 
about  my  intentions,  and  I  fully  enlightened 
him,  adding  that  I  should  be  very  glad  of 
the  benefit  of  his  advice,  and  hoped  he 
would  not  withhold  it  if,  at  any  time,  he 
thought  it  advisable  to  proffer  it.  This  put 
Conrad  at  his  ease.  He  was  good  enough  to 
say  that  he  felt  sure  I  should  not  need  it.  I, 
however,  put  it  in  orders  that  he,  Osborne  and 
I  should  meet  in  conference  every  evening, 
and  discuss  the  situation.  This  was  agreed  to, 
and  was  of  the  greatest  benefit  to  all  concerned. 

"  The  Sea  Sense  "  (one  might  describe  it  as 
"  sea  instinct  "  )  was  well  developed  in  all  three 
of  us,  and  it  was  surprising  how  much  we  all 
agreed  on  different  points.  There  was  no 
secrecy  between  us,  and  the  decisions  arrived 
at  were  at  once  communicated  to  the  sailing 
master,  and  through  him  to  the  ship's  company. 
This  was  all  arranged  during  our  first  meal, 

38 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

and  after  discussing  the  different  disguises, 
also  which  flag  we  should  sail  under — the 
Norwegian,  Swedish  or  Danish.  As  the 
Norwegian  vessels  seemed  to  be  receiving 
the  special  attention  of  the  enemy  at  that 
time,  we  decided  to  fly  their  colours,  and 
hoisted  them  with  great  ceremony,  not  to  be 
hauled  down  until  the  first  shot  was  fired  in 
action,  when,  in  its  stead,  would  be  run  up  the 
British  White  Ensign,  which,  on  a  separate 
set  of  halyards,  was  always  ready  for  the 
eventful  moment.  We  then  returned  to  the 
cuddy,  and  after  opening  a  bottle  of  rare  old 
port  (of  which  the  far-seeing  Osborne  had 
laid  in  a  plentiful  stock)  we  toasted  ourselves 
and  our  ship,  and  prayed  for  good  fortune  on 
the  morrow. 

"  Well,"  said  I,  as  we  again  seated  ourselves, 
"  what  are  we  going  to  call  her  .?  " 

Conrad  at  once  suggested  "  Freya,"  having 
in  his  mind  "  Freya  of  the  Seven  Isles,"  which 
he  published  as  one  of  three  stories  in  his  Twixt 
Land  and  Sea  in  19 12.  I  had  read  it,  and  the 
name  appealed  to  me.  Osborne  liked  it  too, 
and  that  same  evening  our  little  vessel  was 
christened  "Freya,"  Conrad  standing  as  spon- 
sor, with  no  small  satisfaction   that  a  British 

39 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

ship-of-war  should  bear  the  name  of  a  girl 
created  by  his  own  wonderful  imagination. 
The  next  thing  to  be  done  was  to  find  a 
"  Port  of  Registry  "  in  keeping  with  her  name 
and  national  colours.  We  wondered  if  enemy 
submarine  commanders  were  supplied  with 
the  Scandinavian  equivalent  to  our  Lloyd's 
Register,  by  which  he  could,  through  his 
"  glad-eye,"  as  our  own  submarine  officers 
humorously  described  the  periscope,  check 
the  names  of  all  vessels,  their  rigs,  and  home 
ports.  However,  we  decided  not  to  let  this 
trouble  us,  and  spreading  out  the  large  scale 
chart  of  Norway  on  the  cuddy  table,  sought 
for  a  suitable  name,  and  after  closely  examin- 
ing the  different  ports  decided  on  Bergen.  So 
the  same  hour  our  little  vessel,  called  after 
Conrad's  "  Freya  of  the  Isles"  became  the 
Freya  of  Bergen  ;  and  I  personally  prayed  for 
a  happier  fate  for  our  Freya  than  befell  the 
beautiful  heroine  of  one  of  the  most  charming 
stories  ever  told. 

At  5.30  P.M.  Conrad  and  I  went  on  deck. 
It  was  a  bright,  clear  night,  but  rather  cloudy, 
and  there  was  a  moon  somewhere.  The  dark 
outline  of  the  coast  was  still  in  sight,  and  he 
stood  for  a  full  quarter  of  an  hour  gazing  astern. 

40 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

He  paced  the  deck  alone,  stopping  occasionally 
to  look  into  the  lighted  binnacle  to  see  the 
direction  of  the  ship's  head,  and  then  aloft  to 
see  how  the  sails  were  drawing.  This  he 
must  have  done  thousands  of  times  in  his  old 
sailing-ship  days,  when  watching  for  every 
breath  of  air  in  the  doldrums,  between  the 
north-east  and  south-east  trade  winds,  when 
ships  are  becalmed  for  weeks  at  a  time,  and 
the  trimming  of  the  sails  to  every  gust  of  wind 
meant  so  much,  or  when  running  before  the 
prevailing  westerly  gales  between  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  and  Australia. 

The  poor  weary  officer  of  the  watch,  four 
hours  on,  four  hours  off,  for  months  at  a  time, 
with  record  passages  in  his  mind,  could  no  more 
pass  a  binnacle  without  looking  into  it  than 
fly.  He  did  it  automatically,  and  Conrad  was 
doing  the  same  then.  I  remarked  this  to 
him,  and  in  the  few  minutes'  conversation  we 
had  he  remarked  that  in  his  younger  days  the 
romance  of  the  sailing  vessel  always  made  him 
forget  the  drudgery  connected  with  it,  "when 
the  hardest  work  was  never  too  hard,  nor  the 
longest  day  too  long."  With  steam  every- 
thing was  quite  different.  The  work  was  too 
mechanical,  and  the  mantle  which  rested  on  the 

41 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

shoulders  of  the  maker  of  fast  passages,  giving 
him  a  reputation  world-wide,  had  passed  to 
the  cylinder,  the  piston,  the  crank,  and  the 
power  of  steam. 

It  was  now  quite  dark,  and  Osborne,  with 
all  hands,  started  to  disguise  the  vessel.  Freya, 
in  large,  white  block  letters,  was  painted  amid- 
ships on  the  port  and  starboard  sides,  and 
Norwegian  ensigns  on  both  bows  and  quarters, 
all  with  the  aid  of  lamplight,  from  stages 
rigged  over  the  sides.  Hundreds  of  pit-props, 
cylindrical  in  shape  and  about  four  feet  long, 
were  sawn  lengthwise  in  two,  and  nailed  close 
together  on  boards,  which  were  set  up  along 
the  port  and  starboard  gunwales,  the  full 
length  of  the  ship,  to  give  the  enemy  the 
impression  that  we  were  carrying  a  cargo  of 
props  for  use  in  our  coal  mines.  The  same 
arrangement  was  constructed  across  the  after- 
deck  in  front  of  the  binnacle,  so  that  a 
submarine  coming  up  astern  could  neither 
see  that  the  decks  were  clear  of  all  obstruc- 
tions, nor  that  four  twelve-pounder  guns  were 
waiting  for  her  to  come  within  range. 

Whilst  this  was  going  on  I  sat  on  the  after- 
hatchway,  working  out  what  should  be  done 
in  certain  eventualities. 

42 


■K*T~~f-»» 


i 
i 

\  . 

S" 

t: 

-.■^.mumm:^" i'lBm 

K 

w%i.  »*"  'Tl-^SSSB 

I'l'I     I'KOI'S    TO    HIDE    t;UNS    FROM    AIKCKAIT 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Conrad  was  still  watching  the  fast  fading 
coast-line,  which,  owing  to  the  freshening  of 
the  following  wind,  was  disappearing  from 
view. 

I  had  decided  on  every  action  that  would 
have  to  be  taken  to  frustrate  all  possible 
attempts  on  the  part  of  the  enemy  to  destroy 
us,  and  was  anxious  to  discuss  my  conclusions 
with  Conrad  and  Osborne. 

I  waited  until  Conrad  had  awakened  from 
his  reverie,  which  he  did  about  fifteen  minutes 
later.  Then  together  we  paced  the  deck  in 
the  darkness  and  I  unfolded  my  plans. 

Osborne  was  still  busy  with  the  disguises, 
on  the  completion  of  which  we  all  three 
inspected  and  passed  them  as  being  sufficient 
for  our  needs  at  the  moment.  I  then  sug- 
gested that  we  should  adjourn  to  the  cuddy 
to  discuss  the  plan  of  campaign,  leaving 
Moodie  in  charge  of  the  deck  ;  but  on 
Conrad's  suggestion  he  was  invited  to  the 
conference,  for  the  reason  as  before  related, 
that  he  had  had  his  schooner  sunk  under 
him  and  could  give  valuable  information. 
Moodie  was  instructed  to  turn  over  the 
charge  of  the  vessel  to  the  mate,  a  very 
first-class  seaman.     This   he   lost   no  time  in 

43 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

doing,  and  we  four  sat  round  the  little  cuddy- 
table,  an  indifferent  oil  lamp  swinging  over- 
head, throwing  out  an  equally  indifferent 
light,  under  which  we  discussed  every  possible 
kind  of  night  attack  and  every  possible  means 
of  combating  each  one. 

Needless  to  say,  no  Admiralty  instructions 
had  at  that  time  been  issued  for  plans  of 
attack  on  board  sailing  vessels  in  action  against 
steam-  or  petrol-driven  submarines.  There- 
fore our  Round  Table  Conference  might  fairly 
well  be  described  as  unique.  The  decisions 
arrived  at  were  : 

(i)  In  no  circumstances  should  Morse 
signalling  be  used  in  replying  to 
challenu:es  or  directions  from  other 
craft,  on  the  score  that  its  use  was 
not  customary  in  small  sailing  craft. 
(2)  Should  the  beam  of  a  searchlight  be 
thrown  on  us,  all  hands  were  to  go 
to  action  stations,  the  brigantine  to 
stand  on  until  a  shot  was  fired  across 
our  bows,  when  the  vessel  was  to  be 
brought  to  the  wind,  and  the  twin 
motors  used  for  working  the  vessel 
to  keep  the  guns  trained  to  be  got 
ready  for  running. 
44 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

(3)  As  only  enemy  submarines  were  known 

to  be  carrying  out  these  practices, 
every  endeavour  was  to  be  made  to 
bring  the  enemy  within  sure  hitting 
distance  before  opening  fire,  owing 
to  the  rapidity  with  which  she  could 
extinguish  her  lights,  and  make  it 
impossible  for  us  to  see  her. 

(4)  Wireless  was  not  to  be  used  until  the 

action  opened. 

(5)  Motors  were  not  to    be   run  until  the 

vessel   went   into   action,   for   fear   of 

the  enemy  picking  up  the  sound  on 

their  hydrophone. 

These  instructions   were   then   written    out 

and  posted  up  in  the  cuddy,  the  guns'  crews 

mess  deck,  and  in  the  sleeping  quarters  of  the 

sailing  crew. 

We  were  all  very  tired  by  this  time,  and, 
leaving  Moodie  in  charge  of  the  deck,  Conrad, 
Osborne  and  I  retired  to  bunks  off  the  cuddy, 
with  the  mistaken  idea  that  we  were  going 
to  enjoy  a  good  rest,  which  we  should  have 
done  had  it  not  been  for  Rampling,  the  chief 
engineer  of  the  motors,  who  seemed  to  have 
a  mania  for  working  twenty-three  hours  out 
of  twenty-four.     He    kept    up   an   unceasing 

45 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

hammering,  accompanied  by  song,  underneath 
our  sleeping  deck.  When  he  was  not  tinker- 
ing with  his  charges  he  was  oihng  them,  or 
fining  the  tanks,  and  the  smell  of  petrol  per- 
meated our  sleeping  quarters  to  such  an  extent 
that,  in  my  sleepless  moments,  I  decided  that 
Rampling's  occupation  of  one  of  the  berths 
would  in  some  way  relieve  the  difficulty.  So 
at  2  A.M.  I  descended  to  the  engine-room,  and 
informed  this  worthy  that  he  needed  rest — 
indeed  that  we  all  needed  it — and  with  a  very 
cheery  "  Aye,  aye,  sir,"  he  finished  up  with 
the  last  two  lines  of  what  I  was  glad  to  hear 
was  the  last  verse  of  his  song,  and  proceeded 
on  deck  to  have  what  he  described  as  "  a  final 
puff"  before  turning  in. 

The  moving  of  Rampling  from  the  deck- 
house quarters  to  be  nearer  his  engines  meant 
also  the  moving  of  the  skipper  and  mate, 
to  make  room  for  us.  Whether  Rampling 
continued  his  nocturnal  tinkerings  or  not  I 
cannot  say  ;  but  with  the  entire  absence  of 
any  complaints  from  Moodie  or  his  mate, 
and  the  improved  and  refreshed  appearance 
of  Rampling,  I  gathered  that  he  had  decided 
to  rest  himself  for  lengthier  periods,  and  to 
confine  his  labours  to  the  hours  of  daylight. 

46 


CHAPTER  V 

Breakfast  the  morning  after  our  departure 
was  a  wonderful  meal,  quite  different  from 
what  I  had  expected.  Heather,  my  servant, 
who  had  been  with  me  when  I  was  in  charge 
of  a  submarine  flotilla,  and  later  in  command 
of  mine-sweeping  trawlers,  informed  me  in 
his  own  inimitable  way  that  we  had  "  some 
cook."  Conrad  remarked  on  his  excellent 
cooking  ;  Osborne  looked  happy  about  it  ;  and 
I  was  so  pleased  that  I  sent  for  him  to  receive 
our  congratulations. 

He  appeared  with  spotlessly  white  cap  and 
apron,  fully  conscious  of  his  capabilities.  But 
the  rig  of  our  friend  gave  me  food  for  thought. 
I  felt  that  he,  too,  needed  disguising,  but  feared 
to  wound  him.  I  knew  he  meant  well,  but 
I  knew  also  that  chefs  were  touchy  people. 
Yet  I  saw  that  it  was  a  difficulty  that  should 
be  overcome. 

Fortune  favoured  me,  for  on  going  my  rounds 
after  breakfast  I  noticed  that  his  apron,  owing 
to  the  confined  galley  space,  was  no  longer 
spotless,  and  I   there  and  then    excused   him 

47 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

from  wearing  cap  or  apron  during  the  cruise  ; 
a  privilege  for  which  he  seemed  grateful,  and 
which  was  satisfactory  from  all  points. 

During  the  forenoon  I  walked  the  deck  with 
Conrad,  and  asked  him  what  impressed  him 
most  on  leaving  the  night  before.  I  reminded 
him  that  he  appeared  to  be  very  preoccupied 
with  his  thoughts,  and,  having  read  his  books, 
I,  at  the  time,  wondered  what  was  pass- 
ing through  his  mind.  He  replied  that  the 
complete  blackness  of  the  coast,  absolutely 
lightless  as  it  was,  reminded  him  of  some 
island  in  the  Pacific,  uninhabited  or  peopled 
by  savages,  and  that  this  sight  brought  war 
home  to  him  more  than  anything  else  had 
done.  Thirty  years  previously  he  had  sailed 
in  the  same  waters  in  the  barquentine  Skimmer 
of  the  Seas,  on  board  of  which  he  had  shipped 
at  Lowestoft,  which  town  he  considers  his 
English  birthplace,  for  the  reason  that  it  was 
the  first  port  he  landed  in  this  country  after 
some  years'  voyaging  to  the  West  Indies. 

In  this  vessel,  which  was  engaged  in  the 
coasting  trade,  Conrad  remained  for  a  consider- 
able period.  T/ien  the  whole  coast  was  lit  up. 
He  knew  every  lighthouse  from  their  revolving 
or  occulting    variations ;    the  lighted    buoys, 

48 


MK.     IctSl'.ril    (it.NKAIi 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

marking  Channels  or  the  outer  ends  of  shoals, 
he  also  knew.  Passenger  liners  showing 
myriads  of  lights  passed  him  on  either  side, 
relieving  the  monotony  of  the  darkness  ;  and 
on  the  East  Coast  the  flames  leaping  skyward 
from  the  blast  furnaces  of  the  great  steel  and 
iron  works  impressed  him  with  the  strength 
and  might  of  the  country  of  his  adoption. 
Now  everything  was  different  !  Not  a  glimmer 
of  a  light  anywhere.  The  great  mother  of 
the  greatest  Empire  the  world  has  ever  known 
was  shrouded  in  utter  darkness.  Ships  passed 
on  their  way,  not  only  minus  their  navigation 
lights,  but  with  dead-lights  screwed  hard  down 
over  their  port-holes,  so  that  not  a  streak  of 
light  should  show  outboard. 

Two  years  previously  the  shipmaster's 
watchword  was  "  Safety  above  Everything." 
With  us  it  was  Action.  We  looked  for  it, 
hoped  for  it,  and  even  prayed  for  it  ;  also  that 
it  should  not  belong  delayed.  'Tis  no  wonder 
that  the  great  novelist's  thoughts  should  have 
been  preoccupied. 

The  wind  increased   during   the   forenoon, 

making  it  advisable  to  take  in  the  topgallant 

and   upper    staysails.     The    rottenness  of  the 

foremast  made  it  necessary  for  us  to  exercise 
D  49 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

caution  in  not  putting  any  undue  pressure  on 
it.  Under  this  rig  we  sailed  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day. 

It  was  during  the  afternoon  that  we 
exchanged  sleeping  quarters  with  Moodie, 
the  mate  (whose  name  I  forget)  and  Rampling. 
They  were  very  cheery  about  it,  more  especi- 
ally Rampling,  a  great,  big,  fifteen-stone 
fellow,  with  a  heart  of  gold,  who  sang  and 
laughed  alternately,  and  was  forever  pulling 
the  legs  of  the  guns'  and  sailing  crews. 
Previous  to  the  war  he  was  chauffeur  to 
Admiral  Lord  Beatty,  and  was  proud  of  the 
fact. 

Our  new  quarters,  situated  on  the  starboard 
side  of  the  deck-house,  were  very  bare  indeed. 
Four  unpainted  wooden  bunks,  carpetless 
deck,  a  small  enamel  washing  basin,  a  mirror 
purchasable  at  any  shop  which  would  stock  it 
at  sixpence,  and  an  oil  lamp,  fixed  by  a  nail  to 
whichever  part  of  the  cabin  it  was  at  the  time 
required,  completed  the  furniture  and  fittings. 

The  second  night  out  we  played  cards  for 
some  hours.  Nap  was  invariably  the  game, 
and  the  stakes  were  very  moderate  indeed. 
Beans  were  used  as  counters,  twelve  of  these 
going  to  a  penny.      We  all  three  enjoyed  the 

50 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

game,  and  though  one  was  never  in  more 
than  a  shilling  on  the  night's  play,  sometimes 
even  less,  the  joy  of  winning  was  very  great  ; 
and  the  hands  held  were  always  discussed  over 
the  midnight  cup  of  cocoa,  our  last  repast 
before  turning  in  for  the  night. 

During  dinner,  and  both  before  and  after 
play,  Conrad  would  talk  on  different  matters, 
which  always  greatly  interested  Osborne  and 
myself.  Never  once  did  we  interrupt  him, 
nor  was  it  necessary  to  have  any  points  ex- 
plained, so  clear  did  he  make  everything. 
Sometimes  he  would  talk  of  his  early  sea 
experiences,  and  of  his  book  Victory  which, 
just  previous  to  the  war,  he  had  completed, 
and  which  was  at  the  time  being  dramatised 
by  Macdonald  Hastings  for  the  stage.  He 
thought  at  that  time  that  it  would  be  produced 
by  the  late  H.  B.  Irving  when  hostilities 
were  over  ;  but,  as  is  now  well  known,  it  was 
produced  by  Miss  Marie  Lohr. 

The  Freya^  as  she  must  now  be  described, 
leaked  to  the  extent  of  nme  to  ten  feet  every 
twenty-four  hours,  and  was  pumped  out  dur- 
ing the  hours  of  darkness,  generally  at  mid- 
night, when  all  hands  were  called  to  man  the 
pumps. 

51 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Usually  In  Scandinavian  vessels  a  wind-mill, 
continually  working,  keeps  the  bilges  dry  ; 
but  I  was  not  sorry  at  the  absence  of  this 
most  excellent  device,  as  the  pumping,  which 
lasted  an  hour,  kept  the  men  in  condition, 
more  especially  the  guns'  crews,  who  spent 
their  days  under  hatches. 

The  pumps,  which  were  as  old  as  the  ship 
herself,  were  very  often  choked  ;  but  Moodie, 
with  his  quick  ear,  always  scented  the  fault 
of  the  mechanism,  and  was  able,  with  little 
delay,  to  remedy  the  defect,  and  save  us  from 
becoming  water-logged. 

I  can't  think  of  what  would  have  happened 
if  Moodie  had  not  been  blessed  with  this 
peculiar  knowledge.  Mr  Basil  Lubbock,  in 
one  of  his  delightful  stories  of  the  American 
wooden  sailing  clippers,  writes  of  a  certain 
well-known  skipper  of  bygone  days  who, 
when  his  vessel  was  lying  hove-to  and  leak- 
ing more  than  usual,  threw  large  quantities  of 
rope  yarns  over  the  side,  which  were  sucked 
into  the  leaks,  thereby  lessening  the  inrush  of 
water.  I  am  afraid  our  old  tub  was  past  that, 
for  the  reason  that  it  would  have  taken  the 
yarn  of  every  rope  we  had  on  board  to  have 
made  any  appreciable  difference. 

52 


CHAPTER    VI 

We  generally  retired  for  the  night  after  the 
holds  were  pumped  dry.  Conrad  and  I  had 
upper  bunks,  Osborne  occupying  a  lower  one, 
and,  sad  to  relate,  owing  to  seas  which  we 
were  continually  shipping,  a  fair  amount  of 
which  found  its  way  into  our  cabin,  the  con- 
stant rush  of  water  from  one  side  of  the  berth 
to  the  other  as  the  vessel  rolled  kept  his  mat- 
tress and  bedclothes  in  a  state  of  dampness, 
which  was  not  at  all  to  his  liking. 

As  Conrad  read  for  an  hour  or  two  before 
turning  in,  our  one  lamp,  of  the  cheap  paraffin 
variety,  was  hung  on  a  nail  close  to  his  bunk, 
and  was  generally  kept  alight  all  night  in  case 
of  a  sudden  call.  This  suited  our  guest,  as  on 
occasions  I  turned  in  leaving  him  fast  asleep, 
only  to  wake  up  an  hour  or  two  later  to  find 
him  reading  Hartley  Withers'  War  and 
Lombard  Street^  the  only  book  he  read  during 
the  whole  cruise.  This  particular  publication 
was  to  him  one  of  absorbing  interest,  and  he 
devoted  all  his  reading  time  to  the  study  of  it. 
We  were  not  supplied  with  a  library  on  board. 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

but  individual  members  of  the  crew  had 
brought  with  them  novels  and  magazines  of 
the  light  and  non-technical  type.  These, 
however,  did  not  appeal  to  Conrad,  and  he 
never  read  them. 

We  seldom  if  ever  undressed.  Indeed,  we 
discarded  little  else  than  our  caps,  mufflers 
and  sea  boots.  It  was  an  every-morning 
occurrence  to  see  Conrad  sitting  over  the 
edge  of  his  bunk  pulling  on  his  long  rubber 
sea  boots  in  order  to  step  on  to  the  wet  deck. 
This  always  amused  him,  and  his  cheeriness 
was  most  infectious. 

We  each  had  the  exclusive  use  of  the  cabin 
for  an  hour  each  day — a  bucket  of  hot  water 
being  provided  by  the  cook — and  this,  save 
for  our  after-dinner  chats,  was  voted  by  all 
three  the  most  enjoyable  hour  of  the  day. 
Indeed,  these  two  occasions  were  the  only 
relaxation  we  had  from  the  dull  monotony  of 
eternally  looking  for  an  enemy  surface  vessel, 
or  the  periscope  of  an  underwater  craft. 

The  second  night  out  the  wind  increased 
to  a  gale,  the  sea  rising  to  enormous  heights. 
Canvas  was  reduced  to  fore  upper  topsail  and 
fore  and  main  staysails.  We  ran  before  it 
for  a  while,  and  then   after  an  hour  or  two 

54 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

decided  to  heave-to.  As  we  had  only  about 
fifty  tons  of  ballast  on  board,  and  a  couple  of 
thousand  pit-props  in  the  hold,  the  latter  to 
keep  the  vessel  afloat  should  an  enemy  shell 
find  its  mark  below  the  water-line,  we  tossed 
about  like  a  cork  on  the  water,  shipping  heavy 
seas  and  damaging  our  disguises.  Indeed, 
many  were  swept  overboard,  but  were  re- 
placed by  others  as  they  went,  even  at  the 
risk  of  losing  some  of  our  men,  although  I 
had  taken  the  precaution  of  having  life-lines 
round  them.  The  gale  lasted  about  thirty- 
six  hours,  during  which  time  we  found  it 
necessary  to  do  double  pumping.  After  that 
it  moderated  sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  run 
before  it,  and  as  it  got  still  finer  we  set  more 
sail  and  brought  the  vessel  to  her  course. 

We  had  had  a  severe  buffeting,  and  of 
course  the  unpleasantness  of  it  all  reminded 
us  of  worse  gales  we  had  been  through.  All 
three  of  us  had  experienced  "  Rounding  Cape 
Horn  "  and  "  Running  the  Easting  Down  "  or, 
in  other  words,  the  passage  from  South  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Australia  ;  and  it  was 
during  one  of  these  we  had  all  experienced 
terrible  weather,  the  worst  of  which  was  when 
we  were  in  sailing  ships. 

55 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Rampling  kept  us  alive  through  it  all.  He 
was  humorous  and  had  a  fund  of  good  stories, 
though  his  chief  subject  of  conversation  was 
Admiral  Beatty — "  his  "  Admiral,  as  he  always 
spoke  of  him.  According  to  him,  Beatty  ought 
to  have  been  First  Lord  of  the  Admiralty, 
Civil  as  well  as  Sea.  He  ought  to  have  been 
in  Cradock's  place  at  Coronel,  where  he  would 
have  knocked  the  Germans  out !  The  Goeben 
and  the  Breslau  would  never  have  escaped 
him,  and  Turkey  would  never  have  come  into 
the  war  had  Beatty  been  in  the  Mediterranean! 
Beatty  ought  to  have  been  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  Grand  Fleet  on  the  outbreak  of 
war,  as  no  Hun  vessel  would  then  have  dared 
to  leave  harbour  !  Indeed,  his  veneration  for 
his  former  employer  was  so  great  that  I  at 
times  feared  he  might  say  that  if  Beatty  had 
commanded  my  Q-boat  he  would  already  have 
sunk  half-a-dozen  German  submarines. 

I  always  felt  that  I  had  a  lot  to  live  up 
to  in  satisfying  Rampling  as  to  my  qualifi- 
cations. Whether  I  succeeded  or  not  I 
cannot  say,  but  whenever  I  did  anything  in 
front  of  the  guardian  of  my  motors  I  always 
wondered  how  Admiral  Beatty  would  have 
acted  in  similar  circumstances.     I   remember 

56 


MR.    CONRAD    AT    THE    WTIEEI. 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

telling  Conrad  this,  and  it  greatly  amused 
him. 

The  weather  for  the  next  few  days  was  as 
good  as  could  be  expected  for  the  time  of  the 
year — strong  winds,  with  high  seas,  and  bitterly 
cold.  Conrad  joined  in  the  work  of  the  ship, 
lending  a  hand  whenever  it  was  required,  often 
relieving  the  man  at  the  wheel,  so  that  the 
latter  might  have  a  smoke  during  the  fore- 
noon and  afternoon  watches.  The  pit-prop  dis- 
guises, which  were  continually  being  washed 
away,  he  kept  a  keen  eye  on,  for  it  gave  him 
the  opportunity  of  hammering  large-sized 
French  nails  into  the  woodwork,  which  he 
did  with  all  the  strength  and  power  of  a  village 
blacksmith. 

The  rough  weather  which  we  experienced 
and  the  constant  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  not 
nearly  ballasted  vessel  (I  asked  for  one  hundred 
tons  and  was  allowed  only  fifty)  damped  our 
spirits  but  little.  We  had  reached  the  danger 
area,  and  were  simply  begging  to  be  attacked; 
eager  eyes  from  behind  pit-props  scoured  the 
horizon  for  a  sign  of  anything  approaching  the 
appearance  of  an  enemy  submarine.  Musgrove, 
the  wireless  operator,  on  the  pretence  that  he 
was  always  repairing  something,  simply  lived 

57 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

in  the  top-mast  crosstrees  with  his  Zeiss  marine 
glasses,  anxious  to  be  the  first  to  sight  the 
enemy. 

The  North  Sea  is  a  big  place,  and  days 
passed  without  our  seeing  as  much  as  the  smoke 
of  a  passing  steamship.  Conrad  agreed  with 
me  that  we  should  have  sailed  down  the 
English  Channel  and  up  the  Irish  Sea,  where 
submarines  were  known  to  be  operating  in 
large  numbers.  I  had  pleaded  to  be  allowed 
to  take  these  courses,  and  I  can  never  help 
thinking  that  commanding  officers  of  areas 
did  not,  at  that  period  of  the  war,  co-operate 
sufficiently.  True,  up  to  then  no  enemy  sub- 
marine had  been  sunk  by  a  sailing  war  vessel. 
Ours  was  purely  an  experimental  proposition. 
At  the  same  time,  it  ought  to  have  been 
apparent  to  even  a  layman  that  our  chances  of 
success  would  have  been  greater  in  confined 
waters  than  in  the  North  Sea,  where  hunting 
for  a  submarine,  at  the  most  at  six  knots  an 
hour,  was  like  looking  for  a  needle  in  a 
haystack. 

The  idea  originated  at  Granton,  and  to 
Granton  must  be  given  the  credit  of  fitting 
out  the  first  sailing  war  vessel.  But  that  was 
no  reason  why  the  task  of  testing  her  should 

58 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

be  confined  to  the  North  Sea.  True,  enemy- 
submarines  had  been  active  in  certain  chart 
squares,  but  during  the  interval  of  getting 
Admiralty  approval  for  the  purchase  of  and 
the  fitting  out  of  the  vessel,  German  com- 
manders had  changed  their  scene  of  opera- 
tions, and  during  all  those  disappointing  days 
of  not  going  into  action  I  felt  that,  had 
I  been  allowed  to  have  my  way,  we  should 
have  been  in  the  thick  of  it  within  twelve 
hours  of  passing  through  the  Straits  of 
Dover  and  certainly  before  reaching  Land's 
End. 

I  could  not  get  this  out  of  my  mind,  and 
I  expressed  my  feelings  pretty  strongly  to 
Conrad  on  the  matter,  but  he  would  not  be 
drawn  into  any  discussion,  and,  beyond  agree- 
ing that  we  had  had  bad  luck  so  far,  he 
would  say  nothing  more.  To  him  an  order 
from  superior  authority  was  an  order  to  be 
obeyed,  and  there  was  an  end  to  it.  I, 
naturally,  did  not  discuss  this  with  Osborne 
or  the  crew,  so  that  any  expression  of 
opinion  to  Conrad  on  the  subject  would  in 
no  way  have  affected  the  discipline  of  the 
ship's  company,  which  was  of  a  very  high 
standard.      Indeed  I  was  reminded  of  Admiral 

59 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Hopwood's    verse    in    his    T^he    Laws    of    the 

Navy : — 

"  Take  heed  what  you  say  of  your  rulers, 
Be  your  words  spoken  softly  or  plain, 
Lest  a  bird  of  the  air  tell  the  matter, 
And  so  ye  shall  hear  it  again." 

Conrad  took  under  his  own  special  care 
a  quick-firing  Gardner  gun,  which  he  un- 
earthed from  the  top  of  the  deck-house,  and 
personally  screwed  it  down  on  the  after-sky- 
light hatch.  He  examined  the  mechanism  at 
intervals,  to  make  sure  that  the  sea  water  had 
not  rusted  the  parts,  and  always  kept  it  in 
a  high  state  of  perfection.  He  called  it 
"  his  "  gun,  and  assured  us  that  whatever  else 
failed,  his  gun  would  not. 

We  continued  to  play  cards  at  night,  and  at 
the  same  stakes,  small  as  they  were  ;  indeed 
our  daily  and  nightly  routine  never  altered, 
and  Osborne  and  I  certainly  did  look  forward 
to  listening  to  Conrad's  experiences,  after  we 
had  entered  up  the  nightly  score  and  paid 
over  our  losses.  On  one  such  occasion,  and 
to  my  surprise,  he  told  me  that  during  the 
war  he  had  been  to  sea  in  one  of  the  mine- 
sweepers out  of  Yarmouth,  and  that  what 
most  impressed  him  was  the  deadly  dullness  of 

60 


l.IEUr.    OSKOKNE,     K.N.R. 


MK.    (ON  HAD 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

minesweeping,  added  to  which  was  the  risk 
at  any  moment  of  being  blown  up  without 
the  satisfaction  of  being  able  to  hit  back. 
He  also  remarked  on  the  fact  that  where 
mines  were  known  to  be  laid  every  class  of 
vessel,  other  than  minesweepers,  was  given 
a  five-mile  radius,  inside  of  which  they  were 
not  to  approach  until  the  mines  had  been 
swept  up  and  destroyed. 

Osborne  and  I,  both  being  minesweeping 
officers,  greatly  appreciated  Conrad's  views, 
and  said  so. 

When  Conrad  had  something  amusing  to 
say  he  first  laughed  to  himself,  more  especially 
if  the  joke  were  against  himself.  He  amused 
us  greatly  by  telling  us  that,  before  proceeding 
to  sweep  up  mines,  he  wired  his  wife  of  his 
intentions,  and  she,  in  reply,  wired,  "  Don't 
catch  cold,"  acting  on  which  he  went  on 
shore  and  added  to  his  stock  of  clothing 
a  cardigan  jacket,  which  stood  him  in  good 
stead  during  the  bitterly  cold  days  and 
nights  spent  at  sea  with  us.  The  joke  was, 
that  catching  cold  was  the  last  thing  that 
would  worry  a  minesweeper,  as  in  trawlers 
one  went  out  without  any  certainty  of  coming 
back  ;  and  to  survive  clearing  a  mine-field  in 

6i 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

a  vessel  drawing  from  fifteen  to  sixteen  feet 
was  a  blessing  for  which  one  ought  to  be 
sufficiently  thankful,  without  worrying  too 
much  about  the  passing  ills  to  which  the  flesh 
is  heir  from  cold  or  otherwise. 


62 


CHAPTER    VII 

During  the  hours  of  daylight,  when  those 
on  deck  were  consciously  or  unconsciously 
keeping  their  eyes  lifting  for  submarines,  it 
was  no  small  wonder  that  this  particular 
object  of  our  search  completely  dominated 
our  whole  thoughts.  I  had  sat  with,  talked 
and  walked  with  Conrad  on  deck,  each  scan- 
ning different  parts  of  the  sea,  one  or  the 
other  sometimes  stopping  to  examine  through 
marine  glasses  what  turned  out  to  be  purely 
imaginary  objects,  yet  which  could  not  be 
overlooked. 

On  one  occasion  Conrad  spotted  a  fisher- 
man's dan-buoy  just  barely  visible,  which  the 
untrained  eye  of  the  landsman  could  never 
have  detected.  I  remarked  this  to  Conrad, 
who  discoursed  at  some  length  on  the  sub- 
ject of  optics,  to  the  study  of  which  he  had 
apparently  devoted  much  time. 

It  naturally  occurred  to  those  other  than 
myself  that  it  might  be  the  periscope  of  an 
enemy  submarine,  but  as  I  had  been  in  charge 

63 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

of  a  submarine  flotilla  from  August  19 14  to 
March  19 16,  and  had  from  the  latter  date 
used  dan-buoys  on  a  large  scale  in  connection 
with  mine-sweeping,  I  readily  distinguished 
the  difference  from  the  fact  that  where  a 
periscope  would  be  perpendicular,  except 
when  the'  submarine  was  submerging  or 
coming  to  the  surface,  the  dan-buoy  was 
tossing  about  at  all  angles.  It  should  be 
explained  here  that  a  dan-buoy  is  a  wooden 
spar,  about  twelve  to  sixteen  feet  long, 
weighted  at  one  end  to  keep  it  as  nearly 
upright  as  possible,  with  cork  fitted,  oval  in 
shape,  about  the  middle  of  the  spar  to  give 
it  buoyancy. 

As  usual,  my  deduction  and  explanation 
interested  Conrad.  I  don't  think  he  had 
previously  realised  that  I  had  any  knowledge 
of  submarines  and  their  workings  ;  he  was 
amused  beyond  measure  when  I  told  him  of 
my  appointment  to  the  Submarine  Service, 
which  is  perhaps  worth  recording. 

Opening  my  morning  paper  the  morning 
after  the  declaration  of  war  I  read,  in  bold, 
block  type,  "  Naval  Reserves  Called  Out," 
and  on  reporting  at  58  Victoria  Street,  S.W., 
the  Headquarters  of  the  Admiral  Commanding 

64 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Coastguards  and  Reserves,  I  found  myself 
appointed  to  H.M.S.  Dolphin^  better  known 
as  Fort  Blockhouse,  the  Alma  Mater  of 
the  Submarine  Service,  for  command  of 
H.M.S.  Nettle^  and  in  charge  on  Extended 
Defence  Duty  of  the  Second  Submarine 
Flotilla.  On  mildly  protesting  that  I  had 
had  no  experience  w^ith  submarines,  the 
Assistant  to  the  Admiral,  ignoring  my  re- 
marks, directed  his  secretary  to  make  the 
necessary  arrangements  for  my  carrying  out 
his  instructions. 

On  my  reporting  for  duty  I  was  fortunate 
in  meeting  a  commanding  officer.  Commander 
(now  Captain)  Algernon  Candy,  R.N.,  who 
in  peace  time  had  shown  great  interest  in  the 
"  Reserves,"  and  who,  on  the  outbreak  of  war, 
fully  appreciated  their  value.  After  a  few 
explanations  I  found  I  was  to  act  as  his  deputy 
at  sea,  and  soon  fully  realised  that  as  a  pioneer 
of  submarining  he  was  required  to  be  in  close 
touch  with  the  Admiralty  and  the  Commander- 
in-Chief,  Portsmouth,  not  only  for  consultation 
on  the  development  of  the  Submarine  Service 
and  the  training  of  officers  and  ratings,  but 
also  for  a  hundred  and  one  other  reasons. 
Included  amongst  these  was  the  making  of 
E  65 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

necessary  arrangements  for  and  attending  to 
the  needs  of  French  destroyers  and  sub- 
marines operating  from  our  Base  and  working 
alternate  days  and  nights  at  sea  with  our  flotilla, 
under  the  orders  of  Commander  Vincent  de 
Brechignac.  This  officer  was  of  striking  ap- 
pearance, with  great  charm  and  personality, 
who,  with  the  officers  under  him,  at  once 
won  the  hearts  of  his  British  colleagues  in  the 
"  Trade,"  by  which  cognomen  the  Submarine 
Service  is  popularly  known.  The  object  of 
the  patrol  was  that  the  submarines  should 
attack  any  enemy  vessels  which  might  force 
the  Straits  of  Dover. 

After  many  weary  months  of  waiting,  which 
sorely  tried  the  patience  of  the  submarine 
officers,  as  there  appeared  to  be  no  likelihood 
of  such  an  eventuality,  the  French  submarines 
returned  to  their  Base  and  the  Second  Sub- 
marine Flotilla  was  disbanded. 

My  appointment  at  Fort  Blockhouse  was 
a  very  interesting  and  happy  one  for  me,  and 
during  my  stay  there  it  was  my  privilege  to 
meet  the  Lions  of  the  "  Trade."  Nasmith, 
Boyle  and  Holbrooke  were  there,  all  three 
Dardanelles  V.C's.,  who  are  as  well  known  to 
the  great   British   public  as   our  greatest   and 

66 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

most  distinguished  admirals.  D.S.O.'s,  with 
and  without  bars,  were  common  in  the 
"  Trade,"  and  the  younger  officers  wore  their 
D.S.C.'s  with  that  dehghtful  feeling  that  they 
were  well  won — and  they  were. 

One  fine  morning,  fairly  early  in  the  war, 
six  "  H  "  Class  Submarines  arrived  at  the  Base 
from  Canada,  six  others  of  the  same  class 
having  been  dispatched  from  Halifax,  Nova 
Scotia,  to  Malta.  These  vessels  were  con- 
structed in  the  record  time  of  five  months, 
and  crossed  the  Atlantic  on  their  own  bottoms. 
I  mention  this  fact,  as  some  years  later  a  great 
sensation  was  caused  when  it  became  known 
that  the  German  submarine  Deutschland^  a 
much  larger  vessel,  had  crossed  the  Atlantic. 
The  secrecy  of  the  crossing  of  our  submarines 
never  leaked  out — one  of  the  hundred  other 
feats  accomplished  by  officers  and  men  of  the 
Royal  Navy  unknown  to  the  many  who  were 
continually  asking  "  What  is  the  Navy  doing  ? " 
In  charge  of  one  of  the  submarines  was  a 
temporary  lieutenant  R.N.R.,  afterwards  pro- 
moted to  lieutenant-commander  and  awarded 
the  D.S.O.  for  a  great  feat  of  resource  and 
seamanship.  Submerged  in  the  Bight  of 
Heligoland,  his  vessel  struck  a  German  mine, 

67 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

which  completely  blew  her  bows  off.  By 
skilful  handling  this  officer  managed  to  navi- 
gate his  vessel  to  an  East  Coast  port,  under 
her  own  power,  a  feat  which  won  for  him 
the  admiration  of  the  "Trade,"  composed,  as 
it  was,  of  officers  who  had  themselves  done 
great  things. 

Conrad  enjoyed  hearing  all  this,  but  he  said 
there  must  have  been  a  hundred  and  one 
submarine  adventures  not  generally  known 
outside  the  "  Trade,"  adventures  which  to 
the  naval  officer,  however  great  the  achieve- 
ment, were  looked  upon  as  ordinary  incidents 
in  the  day's  work,  to  be  forgotten  and  not 
talked  about.  Submarine  officers  are  a  type 
peculiar  to  themselves  —  very  unlike  their 
"  big  ship "  brothers-in-arms.  There  is  a 
bond  between  them  born  of  the  constant 
danger  to  which  even  in  peace  time  they  are 
exposed,  a  freemasonry  which  it  is  perhaps 
difficult  to  describe,  and  which  is  extended 
whole-heartedly  to  officers  and  men  of  the 
Reserve  and  Volunteer  forces,  with  whom 
they  were  associated  during  the  Great  War, 

I  count  myself  fortunate  to  have  belonged 
to  the  "  Trade";  and  as  Conrad  and  I  continued 
our  walk,  still  keeping  our  eyes  skinned  for  a 

68 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

lurking   Hun,   I   was  able  to   tell   him   many 
tales,  which  he  thoroughly  enjoyed. 

There  was  the  lovely  tale  of  how  one  of  our 
most  brilliant  submarine  officers  hoodwinked 
the  Turks  when  they  thought  they  were 
fooling  him,  and  how  he  more  than  got  his 
own  back.  It  was  during  the  early  days  of 
the  Dardanelles  campaign  when,  after  some 
considerable  time  in  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  he 
reported  by  wireless  that  he  had  expended 
his  torpedoes  and  was  returning  to  the  Base  for 
supplies.  Whilst  waiting  either  for  his  relief 
or  for  approval  of  his  signal  he  noticed  greater 
activity  on  the  part  of  Turkish  shipping,  and 
rightly  concluded  that  the  Turks  had  by  some 
means  gained  possession  of  our  Confidential 
Code  Book  and  decoded  his  message.  He 
proceeded  with  all  speed  to  his  Base,  took  in 
a  full  supply  of  torpedoes  and  without  delay 
returned  to  the  scene  of  operations.  Immedi- 
ately on  his  arrival  he  sent  exactly  the  same 
signal  and  bided  his  time.  Ten  Turkish 
troopships  sailed  that  day  and  ten  Turkish 
troopships  were  sunk  with  all  on  board. 

I  gave  Conrad  the  submarine  commander's 
name,  but  not  for  worlds  would  I  put  it  in 
print.     I  am  too  proud  of  his  friendship  to  do 

69 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

so,  knowing  full  well  that  I  should  lose  it  if 
I  did. 

During  the  first  week  of  the  war  a  British 
submarine  cruising  submerged  in  the  Bight 
of  Heligoland  had  a  very  narrow  escape  from 
being  blown  up.  A  bumping  was  heard  on 
the  starboard  bow  which  could  not  be  ac- 
counted for.  On  the  commander  deciding  to 
come  to  the  surface  to  investigate,  his  horror 
may  be  imagined  when,  on  looking  out  of 
the  conning  tower,  he  beheld  a  German  mine 
on  his  starboard  forward  diving  plane.  It  ap- 
peared that  the  mooring  wire  of  the  mine  was 
caught  between  the  submarine  and  the  plane, 
and  the  forward  movement  of  the  vessel 
brought  the  mine  down  to  the  plane,  which 
was  held  there  by  the  weight  of  the  sinker 
being  towed.  Very  little  was  known  about 
the  mechanism  of  German  mines  in  those 
days,  but  with  careful  handling  it  was  cleared 
and  destroyed. 

To  my  mind  one  of  the  most  daring  feats 
carried  out  by  a  British  submarine  was  when 
her  commander,  somewhere  off  the  German 
coast,  discovered  his  vessel  had  developed 
engine  trouble  to  such  an  extent  that  he  saw 
no  possible  way  of  returning  to  his  Base  except 

70 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

by  being  towed  back.  He  made  plans  accord- 
ingly :  during  the  night  he  explained  to  his 
second-in-command,  petty  officers  and  crew 
that  just  before  daylight,  the  hour  when  look- 
outs are  most  tired  and  weary,  he  would  en- 
deavour to  come  to  the  surface  alongside  a 
German  trawler  which  was  usually  at  anchor 
off  a  point  of  land  close  by.  Everything 
worked  according  to  plan  :  the  submarine 
was  skilfully  handled  and  came  to  the  surface 
alongside  the  trawler.  The  forward  hatch 
was  thrown  up,  out  of  which  and  on  to  the 
deck  of  the  trawler  poured  armed  men.  The 
wireless  was  immediately  destroyed,  the 
Germans  were  made  prisoners  in  their  own 
vessel,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later  the 
British  submarine  was  being  towed  to  Harwich 
by  a  German  trawler,  where  they  arrived  in 
due  course. 

Conrad  enjoyed  these  stories  greatly,  and 
was  somewhat  sorry  that  at  the  time  I  could 
not  recount  more.  He  was  amused  with  a 
story  told  me  by  Commander  W.  H.  S.  Ball, 
R.N.,  who  was  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the 
British  Submarine  Service,  and  who,  with 
Admiral  Sir  Reginald  Bacon,  Vice-Admiral  Sir 
Roger  Keyes,   Captain   Percy  Addison,   R.N., 

71 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Captain  Algernon  Candy,  R.N.,  and  others  did 
much  by  taking  incalculable  risks  to  bring 
the  Submarine  Service  to  its  present  high 
state  of  perfection. 

Commander  Ball's  story  was  of  what  he 
described  as  the  earliest  ancestor  of  the  K  boat. 
This  was  a  glass  box  covered  with  ass's  skin, 
made  to  the  order  of  Alexander  the  Great  in 
the  fourth  century  B.C.  This  bold  general  must 
have  been  absolutely  fearless,  for  in  those  days 
it  required  no  small  courage  to  allow  oneself 
to  be  shut  up  in  a  box  and  lowered  below  the 
water.  Apparently  it  tried  even  his  own 
nerves,  as  he  saw  many  monsters,  and  some 
things  so  horrible  that  he  would  not  speak 
of  them  till  the  day  of  his  death.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  he  would  be  able  to  see 
little,  so  probably  imagination  played  a  large 
part  in  the  things  he  thought  he  saw.  There 
are  many  accounts  of  this  adventure  in  exist- 
ence, all  more  or  less  wonderful,  but  the  cold 
facts  appear  to  be  that  the  great  general  got 
inside  the  door,  was  sealed  up  with  tar,  and 
lowered  to  the  bottom  by  a  chain.  By  an 
accident,  which  in  those  days  may  or  may  not 
have  been  intentional,  the  chain  was  let  go 
from  the  boat,  and  the  king  was  left  sitting  in 

72 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

his  box  on  the  bottom,  looking  at  and  being 
looked  at  by  "  horrible  things."  However, 
to  the  relief  of  his  friends,  and  presumably 
the  chagrin  of  those  who  had  axes  to  grind 
in  his  disappearance,  the  box  broke,  and  up 
his  majesty  shot  to  the  surface,  when  he  was 
rescued,  a  wetted  and  wiser  man. 

This  episode  stands  out  alone  in  ancient 
history,  and  it  is  not  on  record  that  any  other 
person  went  under  water  in  a  completely 
enclosed  vessel  until  comparatively  modern 
times. 


CHAPTER    VIII 

The  wireless  was  rigged  after  dark,  and  always 
taken  down  before  daylight,  but  we  made 
little  use  of  it.  When  the  weather  was  not 
too  bad,  and  the  improvised  wireless  room 
not  under  water,  Musgrove  used  to  "  listen  in  '* 
for  some  tit-bits  of  intercepted  information, 
which  we  were  very  glad  to  get,  more  par- 
ticularly the  news  that  President  Wilson  had 
been  re-elected  President  of  the  United  States 
of  America.  We  had  all  three  hoped  he 
would  be,  and  were  delighted  when  the  news 
came  through. 

Up  to  this  time  we  had  received  only  one 
direct  wireless  message,  this  to  the  effect  that 
enemy  submarines  had  been  sighted  in  a 
certain  latitude  and  longitude  ;  but  as  we 
were  about  sixty  miles  from  that  position,  it 
was  not  much  use  to  us,  as  it  would,  at  our 
speed,  have  taken  twelve  hours  to  reach  it, 
during  which  time  the  submarines  would 
have  altered  their  positions  considerably. 

Conrad   did   not   ask   to   send  any   wireless 

74 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

messages,  nor  did  he  receive  any.  He 
certainly  had  all  a  father's  anxiety  for  his 
eldest  son  Boris,  who  had  joined  up  early  in 
191 5  and  was  then  doing  his  bit  in  France 
with  the  iioth  Battery  under  General  Plumer. 
Boris,  of  whom  his  father  often  spoke  with 
the  greatest  pride  and  affection,  was  originally 
intended  for  a  seafaring  career,  and  was, 
previous  to  the  war,  a  cadet  on  board  H.M.S. 
Worcester.  The  call  to  arms,  however,  was 
too  much  for  him,  and  as  soon  as  he  was 
accepted  for  service  he  was  trained  and  sent  to 
France.  Conrad  was  proud  that  he  had  a  son 
fighting  for  England,  and  would  have  been 
prouder  still  if  he  could  have  given  his  son 
John  too  ;  but  John  was  still  a  boy  at  school. 
Boris  went  through  the  campaign  scathless 
until  just  before  the  Armistice,  when  he  was 
knocked  out  and  badly  wounded,  entailing  his 
going  into  hospital  for  a  lengthy  period. 

Admiral  Sir  Douglas  Brownrigg,  in  his 
Indiscretions  of  the  Naval  Censor,  writing  of 
Conrad's  flight  experience,  says  : 

"  He  was  a  perfectly  delightful  man  to  deal 
with,  enthusiastic  over  everything  he  saw  and 
did,  including  a  flight  in  a  Royal  Naval  Air 
Service  Machine  against  a  60-mile  gale,  piloted, 

75 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

as  he  put  it,  by  a  child  ;  meaning  a  young 
officer  of  21  or  so." 

Conrad  told  us  about  this  after  dinner  one 
night,  but  he  made  little  of  it.  "  He  would 
not  have  missed  it,"  he  said,  and  wanted  to 
experience  anything  connected  with  the  war 
under  the  worst  conditions.  He  was  certainly 
doing  it  with  us,  as  the  weather  was  unusually 
bad,  sometimes  terrific,  and  our  clothes  were 
never  dry.  Yet  not  one  word  did  he  ever 
express  of  regret  at  having  come,  was  always 
breezy  and  cheerful,  and  prayed  only  that  we 
should  have  the  luck  to  get  into  action. 

The  dynamo  for  the  wireless  set  was  worked 
by  a  small  petrol  engine  fitted  on  deck,  and 
when  this  did  appear  above  water  after  heavy 
weather,  Musgrove  got  busy  about  it,  with 
the  huge  Rampling  looking  on.  It  was  always 
amusing  to  watch  the  little  operator  trying 
to  start  the  thing  up,  and  there  was  certainly 
every  excuse  for  any  difficulties  he  may  have 
had,  owing  to  its  being  constantly  saturated 
with  salt  water.  Musgrove  knew  all  about 
motor  bicycles — he  had  owned  different  makes 
at  different  times — but  this  was  the  deuce  ! 
He  was  a  good-natured  little  fellow,  and 
could  stand  any  amount  of  chaff,  a  good  deal  of 

76 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

which  he  got  from  Rampling,  who,  naturally, 
was  more  expert.  They  were  the  Mutt  and 
Jeff  of  the  piece,  and  Conrad  and  I  laughed 
loudly  and  long  at  their  sallies.  We  never 
missed  this  part  of  the  day's  work,  and,  unlike 
music  hall  comedians,  their  performance  was 
different  every  time. 

The  ninth  day  out  the  wind  increased  during 
the  afternoon  to  a  moderate  gale,  making  it 
again  necessary  to  heave-to,  and  after  dark  it 
blew  with  such  fury  that  we  thought  the 
masts  would  go  by  the  board.  The  vessel 
was  straining  heavily  and  leaking  so  badly  that 
it  was  found  necessary  to  pump  her  every  four 
hours,  and  then  for  an  hour  and  a  half  at  a  time. 
No  one  attempted  to  sleep  that  night,  and 
through  the  first  middle  and  morning  watches 
we  just  wondered  what  was  going  to  happen. 
How  the  few  sails  set  were  not  blown  away, 
worn  and  old  as  they  were,  nobody  knew ;  but 
they  held,  or  this  book  would  never  have  been 
written.  It  was  a  terrible  night,  the  worst 
we  had  experienced  during  the  whole  cruise, 
and  not  one  that  will  be  easily  forgotten.  The 
deck  seams  opened  so  much  that  water  leaked 
through  to  the  cuddy  and  sleeping  compart- 
ments, and  as  we  had  neither  pitch,  oakum  nor 

77 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

caulking  tools  on  board,  we  suffered  great  in- 
convenience from  wet  during  the  remainder  of 
the  passage.  When  the  weather  moderated  we 
stood  away  again,  and  continued  on  our  hunt. 

Bad  weather  or  discomfort  made  not  the 
slightest  difference  to  Conrad.  He  was  used 
to  it — "  brought  up  on  it "  as  it  were — and 
was  just  living  over  again  some  of  the  hard- 
ships he  experienced  during  his  seafaring 
career.  I  have  often  noticed  during  my  old 
sailing-ship  days  that  sailors  are  more  cheery 
under  short  canvas  in  a  gale,  when  there  is 
nothing  else  to  do  but  stand-by  for  the 
weather  to  moderate,  than  in  the  doldrums 
between  the  north-east  and  south-east  trade 
winds,  when  there  is  the  constant  trimming 
of  sails  to  catch  the  varying  winds  between 
the  intervals  of  holystoning  decks,  repairing 
rigging  or  scraping  paint  work.  Sailors  hate 
monotony,  and  there  is  no  monotony  in  a 
gale,  when  any  minute  anything  may  happen. 
True,  there  was  none  in  fine  weather  with  us, 
for  the  reason  that  we  were  hunting  enemy 
submarines,  but  the  old  training  made  bad- 
weather  cheeriness  a  habit  with  us,  and  habit 
dies  hard,  more  particularly  at  sea. 

In  bad  weather,  fiddles  (cross  pieces  of  wood) 
7« 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

were  always  used  on  the  cuddy  table  during 
meal  times,  and  even  then  soup  plates  and 
vegetable  dishes  were  constantly  somersaulting 
from  one  side  to  the  other,  and  Heather,  my 
small  servant,  was  continually  diving  under 
the  table  retrieving  potatoes,  cruets,  buns  and 
sauce  bottles.  The  breakages  were  appalling. 
How  we  prayed  for  a  table  that  would  remain 
horizontal,  or  for  something  that  would  keep 
the  ship  steady,  if  only  during  meal  times — a 
sort  of  gyroscope  that  one  could  run,  if  only 
for  the  time  being  ;  but  all  the  praying  in  the 
world  made  not  the  slightest  difference,  and 
more  often  than  not  the  meal  was  a  regular 
scramble.  Apropos  of  gyroscopes  a  very 
amusing  unsigned  article  appeared  in  the 
Nautical  Magazine,  which  read  : 

"  It  is  related  that  in  a  little  coasting 
steamer  for  a  time  experiments  were  made 
with  an  anti-rolling  gyroscope,  and  the  skipper 
confessed  to  a  friend  that  every  time,  and  all 
the  time,  the  gyroscope  was  running  he  was 
in  deadly  terror  the  gyrating  object  would 
break  loose  or  asunder  and  smash  the  hull  to 
pieces  ;  and  moreover,  that  whenever  he  came 
into  '  weather '  of  any  moment  he  took  good 

79 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

care  to  see  that   the   apparatus  was  '  chained 
up. 

Coasting  skippers,  I  know,  are  a  conservative 
lot,  and  dislike  new  inventions.  Their  ships 
have  rolled  under  them  all  their  lives,  and 
they  could  go  on  rolling  for  all  they  cared  ; 
so  it  was  no  wonder  that  the  "  apparatus  "  in 
this  particular  instance  was  "  chained  up " 
when  it  was  most  needed.  Had  we  been 
supplied  with  it,  also  with  the  power  to  drive 
it,  I  feel  quite  certain  there  were  many 
occasions  when  we  should  have  used  it,  even 
at  the  risk  of  parting  the  old  craft's  timbers, 
and  eventually  ourselves  floating  away  on 
pit-props. 

It  was  during  the  last  gale,  when  Conrad 
and  I  were  taking  shelter  under  the  lee  of  the 
deck-house,  that  he  reminded  me  of  the 
parcel  he  sent  on  shore  by  the  Commodore's 
coxswain  on  leaving.  I  remembered  it,  for 
the  reason  that  the  Commodore's  vessel  had 
cast  off,  and  in  order  to  deliver  Conrad's  parcel 
I  requested  that  he  might  come  alongside 
again — a  request  most  unusual  for  a  junior 
officer  to  make  to  a  senior  ;  but  as  he  was  in 
steam  and  I  in  sail  there  was  nothing  else  for 

80 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

it.  I  laughingly  asked  him  if  it  were  his  last 
will  and  testament.  He  assured  me  that  it  was 
not  so,  but  a  gold  watch-chain  which  he  had 
purchased  out  of  the  first  money  earned  as 
captain  of  a  ship. 

It  was  a  bitterly  cold  night,  and  as  there 
was  no  real  reason  why  we  should  stand  there 
and  freeze,  I  suggested  we  should  go  down  to 
the  cuddy,  where  we  found  Osborne  trying  to 
warm  himself  at  the  fire,  which  was  doing  its 
best  to  smoke  him  out.  I  have  often  thought 
that  the  cheeriness  of  the  sailor  is  due  in  a 
large  way  to  the  delightful  way  he  has  of 
comparing  his  lot  in  life,  not  with  those  whom 
fortune  has  placed  in  what  would  appear  to 
others  as  more  enviable  surroundings,  but  to 
the  man  who  is  worse  off  than  himself.  He 
is  sorry  of  course  for  Bill  or  Tom,  or  whatever 
his  name  may  be,  but  the  fact  that  he  is  better 
placed  and  perhaps  drawing  more  dollars  cheers 
him  no  end. 

On  this  particular  occasion  I  was  frozen 
through,  and,  turning  over  in  my  mind  those 
of  my  friends  whom  I  thought  might  gladly 
change  places  with  me,  my  thoughts  flew  to 
my  bosom  friend,  Roderick  Day,  Commander 
R.N.R.,  who  must  be  building  roads  through 
F  8t 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

ice  and  snow  somewhere  in  the  Arctic.  Day 
had  been  with  Scott  and  Shackleton  in  the 
Antarctic  Expedition,  1901-1904,  and  was 
chosen,  I  imagine,  for  the  reason  of  his  power- 
ful physique  and  extraordinary  strength  as  much 
as  for  his  tact  and  cheeriness.  I  had  known 
Day  for  twenty  years,  and  a  letter  sent  from  him 
at  Archangel,  which  I  read  to  Conrad,  told  me 
about  the  great  road  he  had  built  over  the  snow, 
in  some  places  seven  feet  deep,  from  Skibotn 
in  the  Lyngen  Fjords  at  the  extreme  north  of 
Norway,  over  the  mountains  and  along  the 
Finnish-Swedish  frontier  to  the  railhead  at 
Tornea  in  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia,  the  distance 
being  approximately  380  miles. 

The  British  Government,  after  the  failure 
of  the  Gallipoli  Campaign,  were  at  their  wits' 
end  to  get  ammunition  and  stores  into  Russia 
from  Great  Britain  ;  the  Dardanelles  being 
closed  they  were  compelled  to  search  for 
other  routes.  A  firm  of  Finnish  contractors 
reported  that  it  was  possible  to  make  a  road 
between  the  points  before  mentioned,  and  on 
the  Foreign  Office  applying  to  the  Admiralty 
for  an  officer  with  experience  in  Polar  regions. 
Lieutenant  Day,  R.N.R.,  as  he  then  was,  re- 
ceived instructions  to  proceed  to  Norway  and  get 

82 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

in  touch  with  the  contractors.  Day  examined 
the  whole  route  from  Skibotn  to  Tornea  and 
reported  that  it  was  a  practical  possibility. 
The  work  was  commenced  by  leading  rein- 
deer over  the  route — I  say  "  leading  "  and  not 
"  driving,"  for  the  reason  that  a  Laplander  led 
the  first  half-dozen  tied  together  and  the  others 
followed.  These  were  followed  by  horses 
drawing  sleighs,  and  in  three  weeks  the  road 
was  made.  This,  of  course,  from  Day's  modest 
description  of  the  undertaking,  seems  to  have 
been  a  very  simple  matter,  but  during  that  time 
accommodation  was  built  at  different  stages 
of  the  route  for  the  sheltering  of  5000  men 
and  stabling  for  4500  horses,  the  reindeer  of 
course  being  allowed  to  wander  about  in  the 
snow.  When  the  road  was  handed  over  to 
the  Russians,  Day  resumed  his  naval  duties  at 
Archangel. 

Conrad,  who  had  listened  intently  through 
the  reading  of  the  letter,  was  deeply  impressed. 
He  was  glad  that  a  sailor  should  have  been 
selected,  and  pleased  that  he  should  have 
accomplished  so  much,  and  he  often  referred 
to  it  afterwards. 

In  July  1919,  after  completing  the  mine 
clearance  on  the  north  and  north-west  coasts 

83 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

of  Ireland,  I  met  Day  in  London,  and  although 
this  story  has  nothing  to  do  with  our  voyage 
in  the  Freya^  it  is  more  or  less  a  sequel  to  one 
of  our  fireside  conversations  in  the  cuddy  of 
the  old  brigantine.  I  had  just  congratulated 
him  on  his  wonderful  undertaking  when,  with 
that  great  robust  laugh  of  his,  he  assured  me 
that  the  making  of  the  route  was  as  nothing 
compared  with  the  anxiety  it  caused  him 
later. 

I  include  his  story  in  the  book  for  the  reason 
that  when  I  met  Conrad  after  the  war  he 
made  tender  inquiries  about  Day. 

It  appears  that  during  the  winter  of  19 16- 
1 9 1 7,  owing  to  difficulties  between  the  Russians 
and  Finns,  the  latter  cut  off  the  supply  of  hay 
which  was  necessary  for  the  horses  used  for 
transport,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  war 
munitions  were  hung  up  on  the  route. 

In  January  19 18  Day  was  again  sent  for 
by  the  Foreign  Office,  when  it  was  explained 
to  him  that  they  were  afraid  that  the  stores 
might  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Germans,  and 
that  he  was  to  proceed  at  once  to  Finland  and 
do  all  in  his  power  to  avert  this,  the  sum  of 
_^i 0,000  being  placed  to  his  credit  for  this 
purpose.     On  Day's  arrival  at  Stockholm  he 

84 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

made  a  provisional  agreement  with  a  contractor 
whereby  the  latter  was  to  deliver  to  him  all 
the  goods  hung  up  in  Finland,  with  the 
exception  of  some  5000  cases  of  boots,  which 
were  to  be  sold  to  the  Finnish  State  in 
exchange  for  bombs,  the  remainder  of  the 
stores  to  be  placed  on  board  ship  at  Skibotn. 
Later,  Day  left  for  Skibotn,  where  he  heard 
from  indisputable  evidence  that  a  member  of 
the  firm  of  the  Finnish  contractors  had  entered 
into  negotiations  with  the  Germans  to  sell  the 
whole  of  these  goods  for  the  sum  of  1 20,000,000 
kroners.  He  also  heard  that  the  same  con- 
tractor had  entered  into  a  sub-contract  with  a 
Norwegian  shipowner  to  recover  the  stores,  sell 
part  of  the  goods  in  Scandinavia,  and  transport 
the  remainder  over  the  Narvick  Railway  to 
Haparanda.  Day  took  prompt  and  immediate 
action  ;  he  prevented  the  Finnish  contractor 
and  the  Norwegian  shipowner  from  carrying 
out  their  prearranged  schemes,  and  on  his 
own  responsibility  made  new  contracts  and 
proposals  with  the  Norwegian.  Unfortunately 
the  Germans  arrived  before  all  the  stores  were 
recovered,  and  were  able  to  seize  300  tons  of 
metals  and  2500  cases  of  boots.  Two  of 
Day's  officers.  Lieutenant  I.  K.  Storey,  R.N.R., 

85 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

and  Paymaster  Lieutenant  Burke,  R.N.R.,  were 
made  prisoners  and,  insufficiently  clad,  with  a 
temperature  of  minus  35°,  were  taken  by  sleigh 
under  armed  escort  across  Finland  to  Tornea. 
Day  next  proceeded  to  recover  the  metal  and 
boots  seized  by  the  Germans.  He  knew  they 
could  not  transport  the  stores  without  hay  for 
horses,  and  as  they  had  none  in  Finland  they 
must  obtain  it  from  Norway  or  Sweden,  which 
was  prohibited.  Day  placed  secret  agents  on 
the  frontiers  of  both  countries  and  reported 
to  Stockholm  any  attempt  made  to  smuggle 
hay  into  Finland.  He  could  not  stop  it 
from  Sweden,  but  made  it  impossible  for  the 
Germans  to  transport  the  stores  to  Tornea, 
and  seeing  this  route  closed  to  them  they 
decided  to  bring  the  goods  due  south  to  a 
station  on  the  Narvick  Railway  in  Sweden. 
As  soon  as  they  were  committed  to  this 
line  of  action.  Day  allowed  them  to  have  all 
the  hay  they  wanted,  and  contented  himself 
by  keeping  a  check  on  the  metal  brought  to 
Sweden.  The  British  Minister  at  Stockholm 
was  then  able  to  seize  the  whole  lot,  and  by 
Day's  wonderful  ingenuity  and  instrumentality 
stores  to  the  value  of  jr6, 500,000  were  not 
only   prevented  from   falling    into    the    hands 

86 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

of  the  Germans,  but  also,  save  for  a  small 
quantity  sold  in  Scandinavia,  reshipped  to 
England. 

In  return  for  services  which  can  only  be 
described  as  amazing,  in  the  face  of  the  extra- 
ordinary difficulties  with  which  he  had  been 
confronted,  Day,  as  a  Royal  Naval  Reserve 
Officer,  was  awarded  the  Most  Excellent  Order 
of  the  British  Empire  (O.B.E.)  !  Had  there 
been  a  Scott  or  Shackleton  at  the  Admiralty 
or  Foreign  Office,  I  venture  to  think  that  he 
would  have  received  something  more  fitting 
in  the  way  of  a  reward. 


87 


CHAPTER  IX 

Since  beginning  this  book  I  have  often  wished 
that  I  could  report  Conrad's  conversation  in 
his  own  words.  His  expressed  opinions  were 
given  in  the  most  delightful  English.  I  had, 
in  my  time,  met  many  distinguished  literary 
men,  and  listened  to  them  for  hours,  but  none 
of  them  had  ever  impressed  me  as  he  did  with 
the  beauty  of  the  English  language.  When- 
ever I  saw  him  on  deck,  or  chatted  with  him 
after  dinner,  I  wondered  how  on  earth  he  could 
have  mastered  it  as  he  did.  His  vocabulary 
seemed  unlimited,  his  phrasing  delightful,  and 
his  delivery  such  that  it  always  gripped  me. 

He  talked  about  the  Courts  of  Europe  as 
would  a  courtier  ;  he  knew  everybody  and 
how  they  became  anybody  ;  and  if  a  new 
personage  rose  to  prominence  in  European 
or  Asiatic  affairs  he  knew  what  following  he 
had,  and  how  long  he  was  likely  to  remain  in 
power.  He  knew  the  conducts  of  Parliaments, 
the  Reichstag  of  Germany,  the  Reichsrath  of 
Austria,  the  Italian  Senate,  and  what  was  once 
the   Duma   of   Russia.      He    could    trace    the 

88 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

origin  of  all  the  crowned  heads,  and  the  great 
aristocratic  families  who  had  made  history  ; 
who  married  who  and  why  ;  and  the  effect 
these  marriage  alliances  had  in  grouping  great 
Powers  together  for  their  mutual  betterment. 
Nothing  has  ever  so  much  brought  home 
to  me  my  own  utter  lack  of  education  as 
in  listening  to  Conrad.  His  great  flow  of 
language,  his  wonderful  marshalling  of  facts 
and  marvellous  grasp  of  matters  often  made 
me  wonder  why  one  sailor  should  know  so 
much  and  the  generality  of  them  so  little. 

I  remarked  to  him  that,  of  all  the  profes- 
sions, officers  both  in  the  Navy  and  Mercantile 
Marine  were  the  least  educated,  adding  that 
the  officer  in  the  Mercantile  Marine,  save 
for  the  study  of  navigation  and  seamanship, 
finishes  his  education  at  a  time  when  his  more 
fortunate  brother  goes  to  his  'varsity  or  enters 
one  of  the  learned  professions.  The  naval 
officer,  from  the  time  he  first  sets  foot  on 
board  ship,  talks  of  little  else  but  his  job. 
This,  I  suppose,  is  as  it  should  be.  Start  him 
off  and  he  will  hold  forth  on  guns,  torpedoes, 
engines  and  ammunition,  till  you  hate  the 
very  names  of  them.  He  will  tell  you  how 
at   target   practice   his   ship   had   the    highest 

89 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

average  of  hits  of  any  vessel  in  his  squadron  ; 
how  on  some  occasion  or  other  his  ship  got 
torpedo  nets  out  in  seventeen  seconds  ;  or  how 
at  Zanzibar  or  Hong-Kong  in  the  all-comers 
sailing-boat  race  over  a  triangular  course  of 
three  miles  their  cutter  won  easily,  beating 
over  thirty  others  of  various  rigs,  from  large 
sailing  launches  to  gigs  and  whalers  ;  but, 
delightful  as  he  always  makes  his  conversation, 
he  never  gets  away  from  his  own  job.  All 
this  I  told  Conrad,  even  adding  that  in  sport 
— and  the  naval  officer  is  always  a  sportsman — 
the  thing  that  interests  him  most  is  the  Navy 
and  Army  Rugby  Match,  or  some  other  form 
of  sport  connected  with  the  Senior  Service. 
Conrad  listened  intently,  but  he  would  have 
none  of  it.  Then  I  said  that,  as  a  naval 
officer,  the  cadet  from  the  public  school  was 
better  educated  and  more  a  man  of  the  world 
than  the  Britannia-trained  youth.  Conrad 
again  disagreed  with  me.  He  simply  would 
not  believe  it  ;  and  when  I  argued  that  such 
was  the  finding  of  a  Commission  set  up  to 
inquire  into  the  advantages  and  disadvantages 
of  both,  he  waxed  eloquent,  became  even 
dramatic,  and  said  the  Commission  was  no 
doubt    composed  of   schoolmasters — the  very 

90 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

worst    people    in    the   world    to    decide    any- 
thing. 

The  Britannia-trained  cadet  was  to  him 
everything  that  an  officer  should  be.  His 
education  was  on  right  lines,  and  he  would 
not  have  it  altered  one  iota.  He  instanced 
the  facts  that  Lord  Howe's  letters,  great 
fighter  that  he  was,  were  far  from  scholarly  ; 
that  Nelson's  reports  of  his  mancEuvres  were 
in  some  cases  difficult  to  follow  ;  and  yet,  in 
spite  of  this,  Britannia-trained  youths  had, 
after  rising  to  eminence,  proved  themselves 
great  ambassadors,  great  governors  of  colonies, 
and  from  their  quarter-decks  had,  by  rapid 
computation  and  with  great  tact,  settled  many 
questions  of  supreme  national  importance, 
and  always  to  their  country's  advantage.  He 
deplored  any  outside  interference  with  the 
education  and  training  of  the  naval  officer. 
It  was  a  matter  which  should  be  left  solely 
and  absolutely  in  the  hands  of  those  who  had 
served  before  him  and  had  risen  high  in  the 
country's  service — men  to  whom  tradition  was 
everything,  and  who  even  in  their  advanced 
age  never  lost  touch  with  the  great  service  to 
which  they  justly  and  proudly  boasted  they 
had  the  honour  to  belong. 

91 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Yes  ;  I  was  wrong.  Conrad  convinced  me 
that  I  was.  Not  that  I  was  ever  lacking  in 
my  veneration  for  tradition,  but  in  this  argu- 
ment I  had  left  it  out  of  my  calculations,  and 
thought  only  of  education  in  its  accepted  sense 
as  applied  to  the  other  learned  professions. 

I  know  little  about  the  transference  of 
thought,  but  with  each  individual  member 
of  the  crew  thinking  the  same  thing  and 
saying  nothing  the  effect  may  be  imagined. 
It  did  not  come  suddenly,  but  I  felt  it  grow- 
ing, and  wondered  in  my  own  mind  where 
it  was  going  to  end.  Osborne,  usually  the 
cheeriest  and  most  optimistic  of  souls,  lost 
something  of  his  gaiety.  Rampling  grew 
less  communicative.  Musgrove  spent  more 
time  aloft,  and,  if  possible,  kept  a  better  look- 
out. I  knew  what  it  was,  for  I  had  the 
same  feeling  myself  and  consequently  felt  for 
the  others.  In  short,  it  was  the  bitter  dis- 
appointment of  not  having  been  in  action. 
Conrad  must  have  felt  as  we  did,  but  he  was 
splendid,  and  never  appeared  to  lose  hope  that 
the  great  moment  for  which  we  all  longed 
would  eventually  come. 

During  daylight  we  scanned  the  horizon 
right  round,  and  with  marine  glasses  searched 

92 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

every  inch  of  the  sea  within  the  line  of 
visibility,  but  up  to  that  time  to  no  purpose  ; 
and  it  was  no  small  wonder  that  at  the  end  of 
each  successive  day,  when  the  sun  went  down 
and  darkness  set  in,  that  we  felt  that  another 
day  during  which  an  opportunity  might  have 
occurred  had  been  wasted. 

Sitting  in  the  cuddy  one  night  after  our 
usual  game  of  nap,  Osborne,  with  all  the 
superstition  of  the  seaman,  remarked  that  he 
thought  the  Norwegian  ensign  was  unlucky 
for  us,  and  that  we  ought  to  try  the  Swedish 
or  Danish.  As,  however,  the  weather  was 
unusually  bad  and  heavy  seas  were  running, 
the  painting  of  the  flags  on  the  sides  fore  and 
aft  to  bring  them  in  keeping  with  the  national 
colours  flying  from  the  peak  seemed  too 
dangerous  to  undertake,  more  especially  as  the 
operation  would  have  to  be  carried  out  under 
cover  of  darkness.  So  the  idea  was  abandoned. 
Poor  Osborne  was  disappointed — I  knew  he 
would  be  ;  I  also  knew  that  he  would  have 
undertaken  the  job  single-handed.  But  he 
was  too  valuable  to  risk  losing,  and  it  was  too 
much  to  ask  any  other  member  of  the  crew  to 
undertake  what  was,  after  all,  the  gratification 
of  a    mere    superstition.      Osborne,   however, 

93 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

had  had  his  say  ;  he  had,  as  it  were,  got  it  off 
his  mind  and  felt  all  the  better  for  it  ;  his 
cheeriness  returned  and  never  left  him  again. 
Conrad  listened  to  all  this  without  interrupt- 
ing. He  felt,  I  imagine,  that  it  was  a  matter 
of  argument  between  the  commander  and  his 
first  lieutenant  ;  and  when  the  subject  had 
been  well  discussed,  and  a  decision  had  been 
arrived  at,  he  turned  the  conversation  into 
more  congenial  channels. 

He  talked  of  his  old  seafaring  days,  and 
amused  us  greatly  by  telling  us  of  his  experi- 
ences as  night-watchman  on  board  the  wooden- 
built  sailing  clipper  Duke  of  Sutherland^  when 
lying  alongside  the  wharf  at  Sydney,  N.S.W. 
He  was,  I  think,  sailing  "before  the  mast"  at 
the  time,  and  was  chosen  from  among  the  rest 
of  the  crew  for  the  reason  of  his  temperate 
habits.  This,  of  course,  meant  that  he  was  on 
duty  from  eight  p.m.  until  six  a.m.,  during 
which  time  the  safety  of  the  ship  depended  on 
his  vigilance  ;  and  from  my  own  experience 
of  the  old  sailing-ship  days,  a  great  deal  of  his 
time  must  have  been  spent  in  assisting  certain 
jubilant  members  of  the  crew  over  the  gang- 
way, and  with  great  tact  heading  them  in  the 
right   direction  for   the  forecastle.     This  was 

94 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

all  that  they  wanted,  as  they  had  no  desire  to 
bring  down  on  their  own  heads,  as  well  as  on 
that  of  their  "  ship  mate "  and  friend  "  the 
night-watchman,"  the  wrath  of  an  awakened 
skipper,  who  had  his  own  way,  should  he  so 
desire,  of  making  life  impossible  for  them. 

His  tales  of  fights  between  seamen  of 
different  ships  on  the  Circular  Quay,  Sydney, 
were  very  descriptive.  On  occasions,  when 
cabs  were  waiting  for  the  incoming  mail 
steamers,  the  drivers  would,  with  their 
vehicles,  form  a  ring,  and  many  a  good  scrap 
was  witnessed. 

Conrad,  as  night-watchman,  found  he  was 
missing  a  good  deal  of  this  sort  of  fun,  and 
after  a  time  requested  that  he  might  be 
relieved  from  his  night  duties,  which 
request,  as  I  can  imagine,  was  very  reluctantly 
approved. 

We  decided  now  to  head  away  in  the 
direction  of  the  entrance  to  the  Baltic,  and 
as  the  weather  got  finer,  and  we  got  a  good 
spell  of  sunshine,  the  spirits  of  the  ship's 
company  revived.  One  night  we  received 
another  wireless  message  to  say  that  German 
submarines  were  reported  to  be  in  a  certain 
latitude  and  longitude,  but  as  the  position  was 

95 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

a  hundred  miles  or  so  from  ours,  and  we  were 
doing  only  about  five  knots  an  hour,  it  was 
not  much  good  to  us,  more  especially  as  the 
course  they  were  steering  was  not  given  to 
us.  Goodness  only  knew  where  they  would 
have  been  twenty  hours  later,  the  time  it 
would  have  taken  us  to  reach  the  reported 
position.  So,  after  a  consultation  with  Conrad, 
Osborne  and  Moodie,  I  decided  to  stand  on, 
and  simply  acknowledged  receipt  of  the  wire- 
less message.  After  this  decision  we  returned 
to  the  cuddy  for  cocoa.  Conrad  was  still 
poring  over  his  book,  IVar  and  Lombard  Street, 
and  on  this  particular  night  I  asked  him  about 
it.  His  reply  was  :  "  It  is  most  interesting 
and  full  of  useful  information."  He  en- 
deavoured to  enlighten  us  on  many  subjects 
dealt  with  in  it,  and  thought  all  masters  and 
officers  should  be  thoroughly  conversant  with 
matters  connected  with  the  money  markets  of 
the  world ;  also  with  company  law,  stocks  and 
shares,  insurance  and  deals.  Indeed,  accord- 
ing to  him,  sailors  had  great  opportunities  of 
mastering  the  details  of  finance,  and  had 
excellent  ways  and  means  of  studying  them. 
What  I  thought  was  that  all  sailors  are  not 
Conrads,  but  I  did  not  say  so.     Two  or  three 

96 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

days  later  he  presented  me  with  this  book, 
suitably  inscribed  and  autographed,  and  it  is 
now  one  of  my  greatest  treasures. 

We  made  a  good  "  land  fall "  or  "  we 
were  several  miles  out  in  our  reckoning  "  are 
common  enough  expressions  with  seamen, 
a  good  "  land  fall  "  being  the  result  of  good 
and  careful  navigation,  and  sighting  a  point 
of  land  at  an  expected  time  on  an  expected 
bearing.  Conrad  could  never  understand  why 
a  steamship  should  be  ever  even  half-a-mile 
out  of  her  course,  having  not  only  a  patent 
log  for  measuring  the  distance  run,  but  what 
was  still  better,  an  indicator  showing  the 
revolutions  of  the  engines,  which,  after  allow- 
ing for  some  small  percentage  of  slip,  should 
give  her  position  with  great  accuracy. 

In  sailing  ships  it  was  different.  One 
certainly  did  "  heave  the  log  "  at  eight  bells — 
that  is,  once  every  four  hours.  This  gave  the 
speed  of  the  ship  at  the  particular  moment  of 
heaving,  leaving  the  "  officer  of  the  watch  "  to 
guess  the  average  hourly  speed,  after  taking 
into  consideration  the  variations  in  the  strength 
of  wind,  state  of  sea,  increase  or  reduction  of 
sail  and  leeway,  the  last  perhaps  the  most 
important  factor  of  all. 
G  97 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

The  sailing  master  has  his  worries  too  ;  the 
losing  or  gaining  rate  of  his  chronometer  after, 
say,  three  months  at  sea  may  be  anything. 
Extremes  of  temperature,  from  the  icy  blast 
off  Cape  Horn  to  the  heat  of  the  Tropics,  are 
bad  for  its  delicate  mechanism,  and  may  put 
him  ten  miles  east  or  west  of  an  assumed  posi- 
tion. He  looks  to  his  big  brother  the  steamer, 
if  he  sights  one,  to  give  him  a  "  rate,"  and 
the  big  brother  is  always  kind.  He  hoists 
his  red  ensign,  and  at  the  moment  of  hauling 
it  down  the  sailing  master  notes  the  time  of 
his  chronometer  :  later,  the  big  brother  signals 
the  time  of  his  and,  as  he  is  more  correct,  the 
little  brother  allows  for  the  difference  and 
fixes  his  position  accordingly. 

One  evening  Conrad  told  me  of  a  "  land 
fall "  he  made,  and  of  which  he  was  justly 
proud.  When  in  command  of  the  barque 
Otago  he  cleared  from  Sydney  for  Mauritius 
on  the  4th  August  1888.  The  day  of  departure 
was  a  very  stormy  one  indeed,  surprising  even 
to  the  Sydney  pilot,  who  suggested  that 
sailing  should  be  postponed  until  the  weather 
moderated.  Conrad,  however,  decided  to 
proceed,  and  as  he  was  relating  the  story 
suddenly  remembered  and  laughingly  told  me 

98 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

that  when  he  got  outside  the  Heads  all  his 
crockery  was  smashed.  He  was  racing  a 
French  ship,  also  bound  for  Mauritius,  and 
had  received  permission  from  his  owners  to 
proceed  by  way  of  Torres  Straits,  so  as  to 
shorten  the  distance.  After  sixteen  days'  sail- 
ing in  light  variable  winds  and  through  cross 
currents,  and  with  but  two  solar  and  one  lunar 
observations,  he  sighted  the  distinguishing 
marks — nothing  more  than  a  pole  and  basket 
on  one  of  the  small  islands  at  the  entrance  to 
the  Bligh  Channel.  As  a  navigator  this  to 
me  was  a  very  fine  and  skilful  feat  of  naviga- 
tion. It  was  not  told  to  me  in  any  boasting 
spirit  :  Conrad  would  have  been  the  last  man 
in  the  world  to  be  guilty  of  such  a  thing,  but 
meant  rather  to  illustrate  the  instinctive  feel- 
ing which  seamen  by  long  practice  acquire, 
and  which  makes  them  feel  where  they  are, 
and  what  allowances  should  be  made  for  com- 
bating the  elements,  and  the  hundred  and  one 
other  things  sent  to  try  the  patience  of  the 
sailing-ship  master. 

The  difficulties  of  navigating  the  Bligh 
Channel  and  the  Torres  Straits,  with  their 
coral  reefs,  rocks  and  other  outlying  dangers, 
have  always  been  well  known  to   navigators. 

99 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Mariners  are  warned,  when  approaching  the 
former,  that   "  it   is   little   more   than   half-a- 
mile  wide,   and   in   some   parts   navigable  for 
only  two  cables  (four  hundred  yards).      It  is 
dangerous   from  its   intricacy    and    the    great 
strength  of  the  tidal  streams,  and   it   is   only 
necessary    to   add   that    the   vessel   should   be 
navigated  from   aloft   and   with   the  sun  in  a 
favourable  position."     After   passing  through 
this    channel    one    enters   the   Torres    Straits, 
where    during    the   north-west    monsoon    the 
water  is  frequently  so  discoloured  that  the  eye 
is  unable  to  detect  the  position  of  the  shoals. 
It  was  here,  about  twenty-five  years  ago,  that 
the    steamship    ^etta    of    the    British    India 
Steam  Navigation  Company,  when  travelling 
through  at  a  speed  of  fourteen  knots,  took  a 
rock  like  a  steeplechaser,  went  right  over  it 
and    down     the    other    side,     drowning    one 
hundred  and  fifty  of  her  passengers  and  crew. 
The  sailing-ship   masters  of  those  days  were 
daring  fellows,  and  Conrad  was  certainly  one 
of  them. 

In  the  Indian  Ocean,  whilst  plunging  in  a 
head  sea,  the  Otago  sprung  her  fore-topgallant 
mast.  Conrad  "  put  it  down  "  to  the  second 
mate   carrying   the   outer  jib    too   long.     He 

100 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH   CONRAD 

thought  for  a  minute  and  added  "  she  didn't 
like  the  outer  jib."  Sailing  ships,  like  race- 
horses, have  their  own  peculiarities,  their  own 
likes  and  dislikes,  and  it  seemed  wonderful 
that  thirty  years  later  Conrad  should  have 
remembered  this  particular  sensitiveness  of  his 
first  command.  He  gave  orders  for  striking 
the  mast  (sending  it  down),  but  his  crew 
agreed  to  carry  on  with  it,  and  take  their 
chances,  which  gave  me  the  impression  that 
he  ruled  not  by  fear  but  by  his  own  wonderful 
personality,  which  attracted  men  to  him  and 
encouraged  them  to  take  risks  beyond  the 
ordinary  ones  which  are  part  of  a  sailor's  life. 
The  Otago  arrived  off  Port  Louis,  Mauritius, 
at  night,  and  anchored  close  under  the  land. 
On  the  following  morning,  when  weighing 
anchor  to  proceed  into  harbour,  Conrad  found 
he  had  fouled  his  anchor  with  another  lost  or 
slipped  from  another  vessel,  and,  in  spite  of 
the  laborious  work  in  clearing  it  and  the  con- 
sequent delay,  he  reached  Port  Louis  two  days 
ahead  of  the  Frenchman.  The  Otago  arrived 
at  Melbourne  from  Mauritius  on  5th  January 
1889.  In  February  1889  she  loaded  a  cargo 
of  wheat  at  Port  Minlacowie,  South  Australia, 
for     Port    Adelaide,    where    she    arrived    on 

lOI 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

26th     March,    when     Conrad    gave     up     his 
command. 

I  have  often  wondered  why  Conrad,  born, 
as  he  was,  far  removed  from  the  sea,  should 
have  adopted  it  as  a  profession.  I  can't  even 
say  whether  he  inherited  the  sea  instinct  or 
not,  but  that  he  was  a  great  seaman  there  can 
be  no  doubt,  and  great  seamen,  like  men  great 
in  other  professions,  are  born,  not  made. 

He  once  told  me  he  felt  more  at  home  with 
seamen  than  with  men  in  any  other  walk  of 
life.  He  liked  their  conversation,  their  ideas, 
their  broad  outlook  and  their  views  of  life 
generally.  They  were,  above  all  things,  com- 
panionable, and  their  cheery  optimism  was  a 
delight  to  him.  He  could  tell  a  sailor  at  sight, 
not  by  his  roll  or  by  his  peculiar  rig,  but  by 
some  strange  look  in  his  eyes,  due,  no  doubt, 
to  always  gazing  miles  ahead.  On  another 
occasion  he  remarked  that  although  the 
Mercantile  Marine  was  the  most  cosmopolitan 
of  all  services,  the  men  in  it,  regardless  of 
different  stations  in  life,  were  a  wonderful 
band  of  brothers. 

He  had  serving  under  him  at  the  same 
time  a  nephew  of  Canon  Fleming,  a  favoured 
friend  of  her  late  Majesty  Queen  Victoria,  and 

102 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

the  son  of  a  fishing-boat  builder,  these  boys 
cultivating  between  them  a  great  friendship 
and  becoming  almost  inseparable.  I  can 
imagine  this  giving  Conrad  very  real  pleasure  : 
the  nice  things  of  life  appealed  to  and  pleased 
him,  and  what  could  be  nicer  than  young  boys 
in  such  different  stations  in  life  sharing  the 
same  dangers  and  living  the  same  hard  life 
becoming  such  boon  companions  ?  The  sea 
is  a  great  leveller — always  has  been  and  always 
will  be.  Sailors,  more  than  anyone  else,  have 
no  time  for  the  small  things  in  life.  They 
realise  that  the  greatness  of  the  Empire  is 
due  in  a  large  way  to  the  greatness  of  their 
own  combined  efforts,  and  great  they  mean  to 
keep  it. 

He  loved  a  good  story  in  connection  with 
the  war  at  sea.  One  particularly  good  one 
which  was  told  me,  the  truth  of  which  I 
cannot  vouch  for,  appealed  to  him  greatly. 
It  was  of  a  certain  popular  temporary  Royal 
Naval  Reserve  officer  who  was  stationed  at 
Scapa  in  command  of  one  of  H.M.  trawlers. 
This  officer  had  received  instructions  to  take 
his  ship  to  Dundee  for  dry-docking.  As  was 
usual  when  a  vessel  left  the  Base  for  over- 
haul and  repairs,  her  commanding  officer  was 

103 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

commissioned  by  wine  secretaries  on  board 
different  warships  to  bring  back  with  him 
certain  consignments  of  wines,  spirits,  and 
tobacco.  On  this  particular  occasion  he 
neglected  to  carry  out  the  various  commissions, 
and  in  order  to  save  himself  the  trouble  of 
explanations  to  the  various  secretaries  entered 
the  Flow  with  the  American  ensign  flying  from 
the  triatic  stay.  A  signal  from  the  flagship 
demanding  the  meaning  of  it  brought  back 
the  reply  "dry  ship."  It  should  be  explained 
that  before  our  American  cousins  adopted 
Prohibition,  wines  and  spirits  were  not  allowed 
to  be  served  on  board  United  States  warships. 

Compass  adjusters  had  some  amusing  experi- 
ences during  the  war.  To  readers  conversant 
with  magnetism  and  its  effects  this  story  will 
appeal  :  to  those  who  are  not,  it  is  necessary 
to  point  out  that  when  compasses  are  adjusted 
they  must  be  in  their  binnacles  on  board  ship, 
when  magnets  are  placed  in  positions  to 
counteract  the  effect  of  iron  and  steel  fittings 
actually  within  about  ten  feet  of  the  compass. 

One  skipper  in  command  of  a  trawler 
stationed  at  Sheerness  lacked  this  elementary 
knowledge,  and,  finding  great  difficulty  in 
making  headlands,  very  properly  decided  that 

104 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

his  compass  must  be  out.     On  his  next  arrival 
in    harbour    he    proceeded   to  unship  it,  and 
tucking  it  under  his  arm  strolled  to  the  office 
of  the  Commander  in  Charge  of  the  Compass 
Adjustment  Department.     On  being  informed 
that  this  officer  was  at  the  time  in  the  billiard- 
room,  our  worthy,  compass  and  all,  made  a  bee- 
line  for  that  particular  part  of  the  building, 
and  finding  the  commander  in  the  middle  of 
an  after-lunch  game  of  one  hundred  up,  planted 
his  compass  on  the  green  cloth  with  a  request 
that    it    might    be    adjusted.       The    roar    of 
laughter  that  went  up  from  the  officers  present 
completely  discomfited  the  poor  skipper  ;   but 
on  matters  being  explained  to  him  he  heartily 
joined  in  the  renewed  laughter  which  followed. 
Another    commander    had    just    completed 
adjusting  the  compass  of  an  American  destroyer 
when    he    politely    asked    the    lieutenant    in 
charge  if  he  would  kindly  lend  him  a  pair  of 
binoculars.     The  lieutenant  shouted  down  the 
forward  hatchway,  "  Anybody  down  there  .?  " 
Back  came  the  answer,  "  Yep."     "  Well,  say," 
continued    the    lieutenant,    "  one    or    you    go 
down  to  my  cabin  and  in  the  middle  drawer 
on  the  right-hand  side  you  will  find  a  pair  of 
binoculars  ;  bring  'em  right  along  "  ;  the  reply 

105 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

to  which  was,  "  It  shall  be  done  just  exactly 
as  you  say,  lieut."  One  can  imagine  the 
difference  on  board  a  British  warship,  where 
a  bluejacket  would  have  bounced  up  a  ladder 
two  steps  at  a  time  and  on  reaching  the  top 
would  have  sprung  smartly  to  attention, 
saluted,  and  with  an  "  Aye,  aye,  sir,"  carried 
out  his  instructions.  There's  an  old  saying, 
"  Different  ships,  different  long  splices,"  and 
I  suppose  it  is  the  same  with  nationalities, 
"  Different  countries,  different  customs." 

I  remember  one  evening  in  the  cuddy  talk- 
ing about  the  pronunciation  of  English  words, 
and  how  certain  words,  spelt  the  same,  sound 
differently  when  differently  applied. 

This  reminded  me  of  a  story  I  heard  of  a 
now  very  distinguished  submarine  captain 
who,  as  a  lieutenant-commander,  while  super- 
intending the  building  of  one  of  our  earlier 
submarines  at  a  well-known  northern  ship- 
yard, appropriated  all  the  lead  he  could  find 
strewn  about  the  yard.  In  those  experimental 
days  trimming  meant  everything  to  a  sub- 
marine commander,  and  lead,  as  the  most 
convenient  form  of  movable  ballast,  owing  to 
its  weight,  was  for  this  reason  much  sought 
after.       In    due    course    the    submarine    was 

io6 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

launched,  and  at  the  luncheon  in  honour  of 
the  event  many  complimentary  speeches  were 
made,  special  reference  being  given  to  the 
great  advance  made  in  the  utility  of  under- 
water craft,  due  in  no  small  way  to  the  pluck 
and  energy  of,  among  other  officers,  the 
commander  in  question.  The  chairman,  in 
proposing  the  health  of  the  officer,  informed 
him  that,  in  order  to  signify  the  Directors' 
appreciation  of  the  valuable  services  rendered 
by  him  in  the  construction  of  what  was  then 
the  finest  submarine  afloat,  of  his  valuable 
suggestions  gained  from  his  previous  experi- 
ence, and  of  the  great  cordiality  and  harmony 
which  existed  between  the  submarine  officers 
and  the  officials  of  the  yard,  they  had  decided 
to  present  to  the  commander  a  motto,  to  be 
considered  his  own  personal  property  and  to 
be  used,  they  hoped,  on  board  all  ships  under 
his  personal  command,  and  on  his  retirement 
it  was  also  hoped  that  some  place  would  be 
found  for  it  in  his  home.  On  the  completion 
of  his  speech  the  chairman  displayed  to  the 
assembled  guests  an  ebony  board,  beautifully 
engraved,  and  in  brass  block  letters  the 
motto  : 

"  I    NEED    NO    LEAD." 
107 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

The  commander  blushingly  accepted  the 
compliment  and  the  pronunciation  of  the 
word  as  it  was  intended,  but  deep  down  in  his 
heart  he  knew  that  the  other  pronunciation 
must  have  suggested  to  the  amused  Directors 
the  idea  of  the  "  motto  "  and  its  presentation. 

It  is  now  well  known  that  during  the  early 
part  of  the  war  British  mines  were  very  in- 
different affairs,  and  did  not  by  any  means  do 
what  was  expected  of  them.  A  story  in  con- 
nection with  this  was  another  which  amused 
Conrad,  although  he  doubted,  and  perhaps  with 
good  reason,  the  authenticity  of  it.  A  certain 
British  merchant  steamer  arrived  at  Hull  from 
some  Continental  port,  and  was  met  by  a 
naval  officer,  who  asked  for  his  chart  showing 
the  route  he  had  taken.  On  being  informed 
with  some  heat  that  he  had  crossed  the  British 
minefield,  the  master,  with  that  awful  feeling 
that  he  would  be  "  shot  at  dawn,"  was  trying 
to  think  of  some  excuse  when  his  mate,  who 
was  standing  close  at  hand,  chipped  in  with 
"  Well,  sir,  that  accounts  for  the  bumping 
last  night,"  which,  naturally,  did  not  help 
matters.  This  story,  though  a  good  one, 
should  be  taken  with  a  certain  amount  of 
reserve,  as  I  know  to  my  cost,  for  later  I  had 

io8 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

a  painful  experience  in  a  British-laid  sub- 
marine minefield  at  the  entrance  to  one  of 
our  principal  Naval  Bases.  It  happened  as 
follows  : — 

It  was  expected  that  enemy  submarines 
would  attempt  to  get  inside  the  outer  defences, 
and  I  was  instructed  to  take  six  drifters  towing 
mine  nets  and  station  them  in  such  a  position 
to  make  their  entry  almost  impossible.  I  was 
directed  to  run  a  line  of  towed  mine  nets 
inside  the  minefield,  and  I  pointed  out  at  the 
time  that  the  ebb-tide  would  in  all  probability 
take  the  vessels  towing  the  nets  across  the 
field.  I  was  told,  however,  this  must  be 
risked.  Everything  happened  as  I  anticipated. 
When  the  ebb-tide  did  make,  we  were  carried 
right  over  the  mines,  the  exploding  of  which 
was  to  us  like  "  hell  let  loose."  We  were  all 
very  much  shaken  ;  not  a  pane  of  glass  was 
left  in  any  of  the  vessels  ;  some  of  them  were 
almost  lifted  out  of  the  water,  and  two  leaked 
so  badly  that  it  was  necessary  to  put  them  into 
dry  dock  for  caulking  and  other  repairs. 

Another  story  that  Conrad  liked  showed 
the  friendly  rivalry  between  commanding 
officers  of  destroyers  and  trawlers.  One  of 
the  latter,  commanded  by  an  R.N.R.  officer, 

109 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

was  one  day  patrolling  about  twenty  miles  off 
the  Scottish  coast  and  observed  the  periscope 
of  a  submarine.  He  at  once  wirelessed  the 
information  to  his  senior  naval  officer,  which 
message  was  intercepted  by  a  destroyer  com- 
mander, who  at  once  proceeded  at  top  speed 
to  the  position  given.  This  greatly  angered 
the  trawler  officer,  who  knew  that  as  long  as  a 
destroyer  was  in  the  vicinity  a  submarine  would 
not  come  to  the  surface.  The  other  was  his 
senior  in  rank,  and  he  could  not  order  him 
away,  and  what  looked  like  a  good  chance  of 
an  engagement  was  fast  slipping  away  when  a 
brilliant  idea  occurred  to  him.  He  called  for 
his  signalman  and  wrote  out  the  following 
signal,  to  be  sent  by  wireless  to  the  senior  naval 
officer: — "Call  your  dog  off,  frightening  the 
birds."  The  signal  was  rightly  interpreted 
and  the  destroyer  recalled,  thus  leaving  the 
trawler  a  free  hand  to  deal  with  the  submarine, 
which  later  in  the  evening  it  damaged,  though 
there  was,  unfortunately,  no  conclusive  proof 
that  it  had  been  destroyed. 

Of  course  our  general  conversation  centred 
around  our  experiences  at  sea.  I  was  proud 
of  the  fact  that  I  made  my  first  voyage  in  the 
year  1887  under  Jock  Muir  in  the  full-rigged 

no 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

ship  Invercargill  of  the  Shaw,  Savill  &  Albion 
Line.  He  was  known  as  one  of  the  hardest 
cases  and  finest  seamen  sailing  the  seas — a 
broad-shouldered, immensely  strong,  mahogany- 
skinned,  brown-bearded  man,  who  put  the 
fear  of  death  into  everyone  sailing  under  him. 
He  cracked  on  sail  until  the  last  possible 
moment,  and  in  heavy  weather  he  kept  men 
standing  by  the  halyards,  with  instructions 
never  to  lower  away  without  orders.  As  long 
as  the  masts  would  stand  he  carried  on,  and 
if  one  sail  blew  away  into  shreds  he  bent 
another  immediately,  seldom  waiting  for 
daylight. 

We  made  the  passage  from  the  East  India 
Docks  to  Wellington,  New  Zealand,  in  seventy- 
one  days,  often  averaging,  when  running  our 
easting  down,  three  hundred  and  twenty 
nautical  miles  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Old  Muir  was  a  terror  with  slackers,  and 
it  was  a  word  and  a  blow  to  any  man  who 
came  up  against  him.  With  us  boys  he  had 
a  different  and  more  effective  form  of  punish- 
ment. Sometimes  he  sent  us  aloft  and  made 
us  crow  from  the  truck  before  allowing  us  to 
have  our  next  meal.  At  other  times  he  would 
make  us  ride  the  spanker  boom  for  a  whole 

III 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

dog  watch.  In  spite  of  all  this  we  boys  liked 
him  ;  he  told  us  it  was  for  our  good  and  we 
believed  him  ;  and  although  he  was  hard  on 
us  himself,  it  was  Heaven  help  anyone  else  on 
board  who  as  much  as  looked  sideways  at  us. 

A  former  apprentice  who  served  under  him 
in  the  still  earlier  eighties,  and  now  a  much- 
decorated  Captain  R.N.,  had  some  wonderful 
tales  to  tell  of  old  Jock  in  the  Invercargill. 
They  left  Lyttleton,  New  Zealand,  for  Astoria, 
California,  and  after  a  record  passage  arrived 
at  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  to  find  the  place 
blocked  with  shipping  which  had  been  unable 
to  cross  the  bar  owing  to  the  low  depth  of 
water.  Muir,  disregarding  orders  to  anchor, 
sailed  the  Invercargill  across  the  bar  and  along- 
side the  wharf,  and  had  no  sooner  made  his 
ship  fast  than  dozens  of  boarding-house  crimps 
swarmed  on  board  with  the  object  of  persuad- 
ing the  men  to  desert  the  ship,  under  promise 
of  more  congenial  work  on  shore  at  increased 
rates  of  wages.  Most  of  the  hands  were  aloft 
furling  the  sails,  and  in  their  eagerness  to  get 
the  men  for  their  own  particular  boarding- 
houses  many  of  the  crimps  followed  them 
aloft,  ostensibly  to  assist  them  with  their  work. 
But  Jock  Muir  knew  differently.     He  walked 

112 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

along  the  deck,  damned  the  mate  for  allow- 
ing them  on  board,  and  hailing  the  heftiest 
crimp  on  the  foreyard  asked  him  what  the  hell 
he  was  doing  up  there.  The  boarding-house 
runner,  with  that  want  of  politeness  one  would 
associate  with  his  class,  asked  him  what  the 
devil  it  had  to  do  with  him,  whereupon  Jock, 
with  a  well-directed  shot  from  his  revolver, 
put  a  bullet  through  the  softest  part  of  the 
crimp's  anatomy,  bringing  him  with  a  quick 
slide  down  the  rigging  to  the  deck,  where  he 
doubled  up  squealing  and  bleeding  like  a  pig. 
When  the  shot  rang  out  the  others  asked  who 
the  skipper  was,  and  on  learning  it  was  none 
other  than  the  famous  Jock  Muir  legged  it  up 
the  wharf  and  were  no  more  seen.  Later,  the 
police  called  with  a  stretcher  for  the  wounded 
man  and  carted  him  away,  no  questions  being 
asked. 

The  Invercargill  loaded  at  Astoria  for 
London,  and,  before  leaving,  two  elks  were 
sent  on  board  for  passage  to  England.  They 
were  very  young,  and  became  pets  of  the  crew 
on  the  voyage.  Three  days  after  the  ship's 
arrival  in  the  East  India  Docks  Jock  Muir 
found  them  still  on  board,  and  without  waiting 
any  instructions  from  his  owners  gave  orders 
H  113 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

to  the  mate  that  the  boys  were  to  take  them 
to  the  Zoological  Gardens.  My  Captain  R.N- 
friend  was  one  of  these.  Ropes  carefully 
padded  were  passed  round  the  necks  of  each 
animal,  a  short  lizard  rope  being  attached  so 
as  to  keep  them  together.  Four  boys  in  their 
brass-bound  uniforms  set  out  with  them  early 
in  the  forenoon,  and  as  they  passed  up  the 
East  India  Dock  Road  a  great  crowd  collected 
and  followed  them  as  far  as  Aldgate.  The 
animals,  to  show  their  friendly  disposition, 
would  put  their  noses  into  the  pockets  of  any 
person  coming  near  enough  to  them  ;  others 
fed  them  with  biscuits  and  other  scraps,  and 
the  farther  they  went  the  fatter  they  got.  By 
the  time  they  reached  St  Paul's  they  were 
completely  blown  out.  Passing  through  some 
parks  the  animals  saw  green  grass  for  the  first 
time  for  four  months,  and  out  of  this  park 
they  simply  would  not  go.  They  laid  down 
to  it,  and  all  the  coaxing  in  the  world  would 
not  induce  them  to  move.  Eventually  the 
boys  sat  down  with  them  and  waited  events. 
After  some  hours,  during  which  time  the  elks 
nibbled  until  they  could  nibble  no  more, 
further  persuasions  were  brought  to  bear,  this 
time  with  better  effect,  and  again  they  wended 

114 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

their  way  Zoowards.  It  was  eleven  p.m.  when 
they  reached  the  gates,  which  were  opened  by 
a  keeper  or  other  person  in  authority,  who  at 
that  time  of  the  night  refused  to  accept  them. 
The  boys,  however,  had  not  served  under  Jock 
Muir  for  nothing  ;  they  had  been  taught  that 
difficulties  were  only  things  that  had  to  be 
overcome,  so,  pushing  the  animals  inside,  they 
bolted  for  their  lives. 

We  talked  late  into  the  night,  not  retiring 
until  well  past  midnight. 


115 


CHAPTER    X 

For  the  first  time  the  weather  seemed  to  be 
really  moderating,  and  the  air  was  compara- 
tively mild.  Towards  early  morning  the 
wind  quite  died  away,  and  we  were  more  or 
less  becalmed.  The  sun  shone  brilliantly,  and 
the  poor  fellows  below  deck  expressed  a  great 
desire  to  come  up  for  an  airing,  see  the  sun 
and  breathe  the  warm  air.  Of  course  they 
were  always  privileged  to  do  so  one  or  two  at 
a  time,  but  on  this  particular  morning  no  one 
man  saw  why  he  should  be  below  deck  at  all. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  wind  went  to  the  east- 
ward, so  the  vessel  was  put  on  the  port  tack  and 
headed  to  the  S.S.E.  We  had  been  crawling 
along  at  about  two  knots  when  an  object  was 
observed  on  the  starboard  bow — a  mere  speck 
at  first,  which  gradually  grew,  though  assuming 
no  real  size  at  all.  Osborne  had  his  eyes 
glued  to  his  Zeiss  glasses,  with  his  head  just 
above  the  gunwale.  "  By  Gad,  sir,  it  is  !  " 
he  exclaimed,  "  and  heading  right  for  us." 

"  A  submarine  ?  "  I  asked. 
ii6 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

"  Yes,"  he  said,  and  his  face  lit  up  as  if  he 
had  been  left  a  legacy. 

Conrad  was  standing  aft  on  the  port  side, 
his  face  full  of  smiles,  thankful  that  his 
prophecies  had  proved  to  be  true.  He  had 
come  out  with  us  to  experience  a  real  live 
battle,  and  not  the  discomforts  to  which  we 
had  been  subjected. 

Word  was  at  once  passed  along,  and  one  by 
one  the  guns'  crews  came  up  the  hatchway 
and  stole  under  cover  of  the  gunwale  to  their 
stations.  Rampling  warmed  up  his  engines  all 
ready  for  running,  and  stood  at  the  bottom  of 
the  cuddy  hatchway  waiting  for  orders — the 
only  soul  on  board  left  below,  and  who  groused 
only  because  he  would  not  see  the  fun. 

The  wireless  being  down,  there  was  nothing 
for  Musgrove  to  do,  and  as  he  passed  Conrad 
with  a  camera  the  latter  asked  him  where  he 
was  going. 

"Up  aloft,"  replied  he,  "  to  photograph  the 
action." 

I,  however,  stopped  him,  and  told  him  to 
assist  the  "  panic  party  "  if  necessary. 

Everything  went  like  clockwork.  Guns 
were  cast  loose  and  loaded  ;  a  plentiful  supply 
of  ammunition  was  passed    up    from    below ; 

117 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

and  the  men  were  in  great  spirits.  It  was 
here  I  gave  Conrad  the  first  and  only  direct 
order  during  the  cruise. 

"You,"  I  said,  "go  down  and  bring  up  all 
the  confidential  books  and  take  charge  of 
them.  If  ordered  to  do  so,  throw  them 
overboard." 

Conrad  obeyed  with  alacrity,  and  stood  by 
for  any  other  orders  which  might  be  given. 
The  sailing  mate  walked  along  the  decks 
behind  the  guns'  crews,  and  in  a  very  cheery 
voice  said  :  "  Knives  for  those  who  want 
them  " — these  for  cutting  away  the  pit-prop 
disguises,  leaving  the  guns  free  to  work. 

On  and  on  came  the  submarine,  making  to 
cross  our  bows.  The  guns  were  brought  to  the 
ready,  with  the  crews  "  closed  up  "  waiting  for 
the  order  to  cut  pit-props  —  "Independent 
firing,  carry  on." 

I  was  standing  by  Conrad,  and  remarked  that 
she  would  cross  our  bows  and  attack  on  the  port 
side  in  the  rays  of  the  sun.  At  about  seven  hun- 
dred yards  I  examined  her  carefully,  but  could 
see  no  sign  of  life  on  deck,  though  I  knew 
from  my  former  experience  with  submarines 
that  an  officer  was  hidden  away  behind  the 
weather   cloth    on    the    conning   tower.      Her 

ii8 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

ensign  was  flying  over  the  stern,  but  owing 
to  the  bad  state  it  was  in  I  could  not  make 
out  its  nationality. 

The  guns'  crews  were  growing  impatient, 
and  I  gently  reminded  them  that  all  rounds 
must  be  hits,  otherwise  she  would  submerge 
and  torpedo  us  ;  but  they  were  confident,  and 
smiled  back  their  assurances. 

She  crossed  our  bows  to  the  port  side  at  a 
distance  of  about  four  hundred  yards,  and  it 
was  then  that  we  made  out  the  ensign  to  be 
British,  and  from  her  build  beam  on  to  be  one 
of  the  G  class,  evidently  bound  for  the  Baltic. 

I  don't  know  how  I  gave  the  order  to 
"secure."  The  reaction  of  the  intense  excite- 
ment told  immediately,  and  the  feeling  of 
utter  depression  was  indescribable.  I  have 
never  seen  such  looks  of  disappointment  on 
men's  faces  ;  not  a  word  was  spoken  during 
the  "  secure."  I  looked  to  Conrad  for  con- 
solation, but  got  none,  as  he  was  as  sad  as  any 
of  us.  I  noticed  then  he  was  keeping  watch 
over  the  confidential  books,  and  suddenly 
remembered  the  order  I  had  given  him.  It 
occurred  to  me  that  perhaps  I  should  not 
have  sent  him,  but  at  the  time  I  forgot  his 
individuality.     I    only    knew  that    I    was    in 

119 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

command,  and  that  everybody  else  was  there 
to  obey,  and  when  I  found  him  at  the  end  of 
it  all  still  waiting  for  orders  I  realised  that 
in  giving  Joseph  Conrad  an  order  I  had  done 
what  no  other  living  man  could  have  done. 
We  laughed  over  it  afterwards,  and  when  he 
insisted  on  returning  them  to  the  cuddy  we 
laughed  still  more. 

He  told  me  later  that  on  his  way  from  the 
cuddy  with  the  books  he  twitted  Rampling 
on  being  out  of  the  fun,  and  that  Rampling 
assured  him  that  sinking  submarines  was 
nothing  new  to  him;  which  remark  was  taken 
at  its  worth,  for  the  man  was  never  lost  for 
an  answer,  and  this  one  given  was  meant  only 
as  an  excuse  for  not  seeing  this  particular 
action. 

Conrad  was,  as  usual,  the  first  one  to  cheer 
us  up.  He  condoled  with  us  on  our  dis- 
appointment and  consoled  us  for  having  had 
an  opportunity  of  experiencing  the  real  thing 
up  to  a  certain  point.  Anything,  he  said, 
that  had  been  overlooked  could  be  put  right, 
and  everything  we  had  done  might  possibly 
be  improved  on  ;  adding  that  on  our  home- 
ward passage  we  should  be  sure  to  fall  in  with 
something. 

120 


n.M.S.    RKADY — BECAI.MKl) 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH   CONRAD 

It  was  as  much  the  way  he  said  things  as 
what  he  actually  said  that  was  so  convincing. 
One  believed  him  instinctively  and  trusted 
him  implicitly,  and  after  this  expression  of 
opinion  we  settled  down  to  our  work,  our 
thoughts  full  of  "what  might  have  been." 

During  the  fine  spell  of  weather  we  ex- 
amined the  spars  and  overhauled  the  sails  and 
rigging.  Osborne  again  suggested  altering  her 
nationality  for  luck,  but  I  decided  to  remain 
Norwegian,  and  if  I  were  Norwegian,  every- 
body else  had  to  be,  for  the  time  being.  I, 
however,  told  Osborne  that  if  the  next  sub- 
marine we  met  proved  to  be  British,  we  should 
all  turn  Danes  or  Swedes,  whichever  he  liked 
the  better.  This  pleased  him,  and  settled  the 
matter. 

Some  days  later  we  received  a  wireless 
message  informing  us  that  enemy  submarines 
were  laying  mines  off  Grimsby,  and  that  we 
were  to  cruise  in  the  vicinity.  The  wind 
being  favourable,  we  accordingly  bore  away 
in  that  direction.  We  could  hardly  expect  to 
find  one  on  the  surface,  in  close  proximity  to 
the  land,  so  that  our  only  chance  of  sighting 
one  would  be  before  dawn,  either  on  her  way 
to  the  scene  of  her  activities,  or  returning  to 

121 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

her  Base  after  completing  operations.  For 
this  reason  we  steered  to  get  on  a  line  joining 
the  geographical  positions  of  Grimsby  and 
Kiel,  before  heading  for  the  English  coast. 

The  weather  remained  fine,  though  very- 
cold,  and  instead  of  playing  cards  at  night  we 
paced  the  deck  and  talked.  Conrad  told  me 
that  when  war  broke  out  he  was  in  Vienna 
with  his  wife  and  two  boys,  and  had  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  getting  permission  to 
leave  the  country.  Mr  Penfield,  the  American 
Minister,  had  taken  charge  of  British  affairs, 
and  to  him  he  appealed  to  use  his  influence 
with  the  Austrian  Foreign  Office  to  secure 
passports  for  himself  and  family.  Mr  Penfield 
received  Conrad  with  the  greatest  cordiality, 
and  spared  no  pains  in  interceding  on  his 
behalf,  but,  as  it  appeared  at  the  time,  all  to 
no  purpose,  when  the  strangest  of  all  things 
happened. 

Conrad  was  at  the  Legation  and  in  con- 
versation with  the  Minister  when  a  telegram 
arrived  from  our  own  Foreign  Office  request- 
ing his  Excellency  to  inform  the  Austrian 
Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  that  the  British 
Government  had  decided  to  release  the  Prince 
and   Princess  of  Zu   Solm,  both  of  whom  had 

122 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

been  arrested  at  Cape  Town,  and  to  allow  them 
to  return  under  safe  conduct  to  Austria.  The 
American  Minister  at  once  conveyed  this 
information  to  the  Austrian  Foreign  Minister, 
making  at  the  same  time  another  request 
for  Conrad's  passports.  The  occasion  was 
auspicious  indeed,  and  shortly  afterwards 
Conrad,  with  his  wife  and  two  sons,  found 
their  way  to  Genoa,  where  they  took  passage 
on  board  a  Dutch  steamer  bound  for  England, 
and  in  due  course  arrived  at  and  disembarked 
at  Gravesend. 

The  wind  remained  favourable,  and  during 
the  night  increased  in  strength,  sending  us 
along  at  a  good  seven  knots.  My  decision 
to  steer  so  as  to  intercept  submarines  leaving 
or  returning  to  Germany  put  new  heart  into 
the  crew,  as  they,  like  myself,  were  dead 
against  returning  to  our  Base  without  what 
a  sporting  member  of  the  crew  described 
as  a  "  bag."  We  still  had  a  good  supply 
of  provisions  left,  though  all  tinned  stuff  and 
hard  biscuits,  and  had  saved  a  good  deal  of 
rain  water  for  drinking  purposes,  so  that  we 
could  hang  about  for  a  considerable  time  on 
the  off-chance  of  luck  coming  our  way.  But 
what  we  did  grouse  about  was  the  shortness 

123 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

of  daylight  —  only  eight  hours  out  of  the 
twenty-four,  with  sixteen  hours' utter  blackness, 
during  which  time  a  dozen  submarines  could 
have  passed  us  without  being  seen.  On  one 
or  two  occasions  Musgrove  picked  up  German 
Telefunken  messages,  but  as  they  were  in  code 
they  conveyed  nothing  to  us.  The  messages 
were  generally  weak,  indicating  that  the 
senders  were  far  away,  so  that  the  chances 
of  our  falling  in  with  them  were  small. 
Musgrove  was  a  wonderful  little  fellow.  I 
have  seen  him  night  after  night  during  heavy 
weather  sitting  in  his  little  hut,  knee-deep  in 
water,  with  the  receivers  to  his  ears,  waiting 
to  catch  any  Morse  signals  which  might  be 
in  the  air,  and  then  up  aloft  all  day.  I  don't 
believe  he  ever  slept,  as  when  he  had  absolutely 
nothing  else  to  do  he  was  teaching  Conrad 
wireless,  both  in  the  working  of  the  instru- 
ments and  the  Morse  code.  Once,  during  a 
gale,  when  poor  Musgrove  was  trying  to  get 
his  instruments  together  after  they  had  been 
knocked  endways  by  a  heavy  sea,  with 
Conrad  as  a  very  interested  onlooker,  I  asked 
him  what  progress  Mr  Conrad  was  making 
under  his  tuition.  Musgrove's  reply  was  : 
"  He  knows  it  now  from  A  to  Z,  sir."     The 

124 


I      ^ 


A    SrKO\<;    liREK/.E 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

same  afternoon  Conrad   wrote   on  a  sheet   of 
paper  : — 


K^v^l 


,Icm^        }\<\     _,       ^c 


Musgrove  and  I  often  had  long  chats 
together,  and  towards  the  end  of  the  cruise 
he  asked  me  if  I  thought  Mr  Conrad  would 
write  about  our  experiences.  Strangely  enough, 
it  never  occurred  to  me  that  he  would, 
perhaps  for  the  reason  that,  had  he  intended 
to  do  so,  he  would  have  mentioned  it  ;  also 
that  throughout  the  vovao:e  I  never  once  saw 
him  make  a  single  note  of  anything.  No 
doubt,  Conrad,  on  his  return  home,  could  have 
written  a  most  descriptive  article  on  our 
venture,  which  would  have  been  read  with 
avidity  by  his  countless  admirers  ;  but  the 
tale  he  would  have  told   would  have   had   to 

125 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

include  himself,  and  Conrad's  natural  modesty 
would  have  prevented  that.  Besides,  we  were 
only  doing  what  thousands  of  others  were  doing, 
only  in  a  different  and  more  experimental  way. 
I  have  since  read  that  Admiral  Sir  Douglas 
Brownrigg  hoped  he  would  do  so,  and  must 
again  quote  from  his  "  Indiscretions  of  the 
Naval  Censor  "  : 

"It  was  in  the  autumn  of  19 17  that  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  time  the 
doings  of  the  wonderful  Mercantile  Navy 
should  be  written  up,  by  which  I  do  not 
mean  slobbered  over,  or  '  boosted,'  but  written 
up  by  somebody  whose  heart  would  be  in  the 
job,  and  who  would  understand  the  hearts 
and  minds  of  the  Merchant  Navy,  as  well  as 
those  of  the  public.  I  therefore  approached 
Mr  Joseph  Conrad,  and  he  very  kindly  came 
up  and  saw  me,  though  he  said  he  was  not  a 
writer  to  the  Press.  I  was  overjoyed  at  secur- 
ing his  co-operation,  and  we  fixed  up  an  ex- 
tensive programme  for  him,  and  he  travelled  all 
over  the  country,  and  had  the  free  entry  into 
every  port  and  every  ship  in  which  the  Royal 
and  Mercantile  Navies  were  co-operating." 

I  never  asked  Conrad  if  he  intended  writing 
126 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

about  his  experience  with  us,  so  was  unable 
to  satisfy  Musgrove's  curiosity. 

One  evening,  when  Conrad  was  in  a  re- 
miniscent mood,  he  told  me  that  when  sitting 
for  his  Masters'  Certificate  before  Mr  Sterry, 
a  London  Board  of  Trade  Examiner,  he  was 
asked  by  him  how  he  would  "  rig  a  jury 
rudder,"  and  straightway  told  Conrad  how  he 
himself  rigged  one  in  a  ship  he  commanded, 
when  carrying  troops  to  the  Crimea.  In  the 
circumstances  there  was  nothing  for  Conrad 
to  do  but  to  agree  that  Mr  Sterry's  was  the 
best  way.  Examiners  in  those  days  had  their 
own  pet  method  of  carrying  out  different 
evolutions,  and  what  would  do  for  one  would 
not  always  do  for  the  other  ;  so  that  at  the 
navigation  schools  it  was  always  impressed  on 
us  that  if  we  appeared  before  Captain  So-and- 
so  we  were  to  do  things  this  way,  and  before 
Captain  somebody  else  the  other  way.  Conrad, 
doubtless,  had  a  different  and  possibly  a  better 
and  simpler  way  of  rigging  a  jury  rudder,  but 
it  was  not  policy  to  say  so. 

There  was  a  certain  examiner  before 
whom  Conrad  appeared  (and  I  also  at  a  later 
date)  who  had  the  reputation  of  making 
young  candidates  talk  and  talk  until  they  tied 

127 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

themselves  in  knots,  and  then  "  failing  '* 
them.  He  was  out  to  fail  as  many  as  he  could, 
and  through  sheer  nervousness  many  aspirants 
to  masters'  and  mates'  certificates  v^ere  sent 
down.  Conrad  and  I  both  survived  his  efforts, 
and  passed  our  examinations  with  credit. 

I  think  we  discussed  the  "  Merchant  Ser- 
vice in  the  War  "  more  than  any  other  sub- 
ject. It  was  a  source  of  delight  to  Conrad  to 
hear  of  anything  to  the  credit  of  the  types  of 
men  he  had  served  with.  He  readily  under- 
stood how  easily  officers  and  men  of  the 
Merchant  Service  could  adapt  themselves 
to  war  conditions  :  all  their  lives  they  were 
fighting  the  elements,  and  their  discipline  and 
natural  courage  suited  them  for  the  purpose 
for  which  they  were  employed. 

The  first  single  ship  action  of  the  war 
between  the  Carmania  and  the  Cap  Trafalgar 
was  an  instance  of  this,  as,  although  the  ship 
was  commanded  by  a  very  distinguished 
officer  of  the  Royal  Navy,  she  was  almost 
entirely  officered  by  lieutenant  -  commanders 
and  lieutenants  of  the  R.N.R. 

The  temporary  officers  of  the  R.N.R.  were 
taken  straight  out  of  the  Merchant  Service, 
and  without  as  much  as  a  day's  training  were 

128 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

given  very  responsible  commands,  at  high  rates 
of  pay,  added  to  which  they  had  greater 
advantages  of  attaining  distinction  over  the 
more  highly  trained  officer  of  their  own  rank 
in  the  Royal  Navy,  who  had,  in  most  cases,  to 
be  content  with  a  subordinate  appointment  in 
a  battleship,  cruiser,  destroyer,  or  any  other 
class  of  war  vessel,  with  the  exception  of 
submarines. 

Conrad  was  delighted  to  hear  of  the  good 
feeling  prevailing  between  the  two  Services, 
and  agreed  that  any  previous  misunderstanding 
was  due  to  the  fact  that  they  had  never  before 
had  an  opportunity  of  knowing  each  other. 
Now  they  were  sharing  the  same  perils,  doing 
exactly  the  same  work  and  all  with  the  same 
object.  No  man  had  a  greater  admiration  for 
the  merchant  captain  than  the  naval  officer  : 
he  knew  almost  better  than  anybody  else  that 
the  carriage  of  food,  guns,  ammunition  and 
other  supplies  depended  on  the  courage  and 
tenacity  of  these  hardy  old  seafarers  keeping 
the  sea.  Submarines  and  mines  had  no  terror 
for  him  ;  and  although  during  the  early  period 
of  the  war  he  had  no  gun  to  hit  back  with, 
he  sailed  the  seven  seas  rejoicing,  and  never 
missed  a  tide. 

I  129 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Conrad,  too,  was  very  much  interested  in 
the  training  of  the  permanent  Royal  Naval 
Reserve  officer — how  up  to  1904  he  was  not 
allowed  to  attain  higher  rank  than  that  of 
lieutenant;  how  during  the  intervening  years 
the  restrictions  had  been  broken  down,  and 
that  at  the  time  there  were  officers  serving  who 
held  the  ranks  of  lieutenant -commanders, 
commanders,  captains  and  commodores. 
Decorations  had  come  their  way,  some  of 
the  more  senior  being  awarded  Companion- 
ships of  the  Bath  (one  has  since  been  made  a 
Knight  Commander  of  the  Most  Excellent 
Order  of  St  Michael  and  St  George,  and 
two  Knights  of  the  Most  Excellent  Order  of 
the  British  Empire.  His  Majesty  the  King 
has  also  graciously  approved  of  two  officers 
being  selected  as  his  Aides-de-Camp  in  rota- 
tion of  seniority).  Great  strides  had  been 
made  in  ten  years  :  the  two  Services  realised 
more  than  ever  that  they  were  interdependent, 
and  that  henceforth  in  any  common  cause  they 
were  a  band  of  brothers. 

We  also  discussed  the  fighting  qualities  of 
the    Navies    of  other    Powers,   and    the   part 
played  by  Japan  in  her  sea  fight  with  Russia. 
We    talked   of  Admiral    Togo,   the   Japanese 

130 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Admiralissimo,  having  received  his  early  train- 
ing in  H.M.S.  Worcester.  This  reminded  me 
of  two  Japanese  naval  stories. 

In  1902  I  w^as  serving  as  a  lieutenant  in 
H.M.S.  Empress  of  India^  then  doing  duty 
as  Guardship  at  Queenstown,  when  one  fine 
summer  afternoon  one  of  the  latest  types  of 
Japanese  battleships  entered  the  harbour  and 
anchored  close  astern  of  us,  her  stay  in  port 
extending  to  a  week  or  ten  days.  We  had 
one  of  the  finest  bands  in  the  Service,  and 
each  morning  as  the  Colours  were  hoisted  the 
National  Anthem  was  played,  followed  by  the 
National  Anthem  of  Japan.  On  the  fourth 
night  after  her  arrival  we  invited  the  captain 
and  officers  to  dinner.  Captain  Henry  Louis 
Fleet,  R.N.  (a  brother  of  Mr  Rutland  Barring- 
ton,  the  famous  old  Savoyard),  taking  the  head 
of  the  table.  When  the  wine  had  been  served 
Captain  Fleet  proposed  the  health  of  his 
Majesty  the  King  :  the  band  played  the 
National  Anthem  and  the  toast  was  drunk, 
all  officers  remaining  seated  by  right  of  a 
privilege  accorded  them  by,  I  think,  one  of 
the  Georges.  Rumour  has  it  that  when 
dining  on  board  some  ship  or  other  the  King 
in   question  bumped  his  head  against  one  of 

131 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

the    beams    in    the    then    low-ceilinged   ward 
rooms,  and  said  that  the  loyalty  of  the  officers 
of  the  Royal  Navy  was  sufficiently  assured  to 
drink  his  health  seated.     A  few  minutes  later 
Captain  Fleet  rose  and  proposed  the  health  of 
his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  all  officers 
rising.    The  band  played  the  Japanese  National 
Anthem,  at  the  end  of  which  each  officer,  lift- 
ing his  glass,  drank  to  the  health  of  his  Majesty. 
When  quiet  again  reigned,  the  Japanese  captain, 
who  spoke  perfect  English,  asked  Captain  Fleet 
if  he  would  tell  him  the  name  of  the  tune  which 
had  just  been  played.     Our  captain's  consterna- 
tion may  be  imagined  when  our  distinguished 
visitor  assured  him  that  he  had  not  heard  it 
before  !     Our  bandmaster,  an  Italian,  was  sent 
for,   who   explained    that   to   the   best  of  his 
belief  it  was  the  National  Anthem  of  Japan. 
Unhappily   it   was    not.     Apologies    and    ex- 
planations followed,  and  a  band  sergeant  was 
dispatched  to  the  Japanese  battleship  for  the 
real  score,  which,  when  played,  was  so  entirely 
different  that  one  can  only  wonder  that  such 
a  mistake  could  have  been  made. 

The  other  story  concerns  a  Japanese  battle- 
ship which,  long  previous  to  the  Great  War, 
had  anchored  at  The  Nore.     On  her  arrival 

132 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

the  Commander-in-Chief  gave  orders  that 
during  the  stay  of  the  vessel  in  harbour 
Gilbert  and  Sullivan's  famous  comic  opera 
The  Mikado  was  not  to  be  played  by  the  bands 
of  ships  under  his  orders.  One  evening, 
whilst  captains  and  officers  were  going  about 
their  usual  duties  on  board  their  various  vessels, 
the  strains  of  a  familiar  tune  floated  across  the 
waters  ;  they  could  scarcely  believe  their  ears  : 
it  was  The  Flowers  that  bloom  in  the  Spring,  Tra 
la  la.  Great  Heavens,  thought  everyone, 
which  ship  had  dared  to  disobey  such  an 
important  order  ?  Officers  of  watches  and 
signalmen  gazed  round  and  looked  at  one 
another  in  bewilderment.  The  laugh  that 
went  round  the  fleet  may  be  imagined  when 
it  was  discovered  that  the  opera  in  question 
was  being  played  by  none  other  than  the  band 
of  the  Japanese  battleship  ! 

As  the  cruise  was  slowly  drawing  to  a  close 
I  must  candidly  confess  that  I  thought  more 
of  losing  Conrad's  companionship  than  I  did 
of  sinking  submarines.  Naturally,  the  latter 
was  never  out  of  my  thoughts,  but  the  other 
feeling  predominated.  I  knew  I  should  soon 
be  out  in  the  ship  again,  and  dreaded  to  think 
how   different   everything   would   be  without 

133 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

his  company.  One  evening  I  gave  expression 
to  these  thoughts,  and  added  that  I  should  be 
very  sorry  to  think  we  should  not  meet  again. 
Conrad,  however,  put  me  at  my  ease  by  say- 
ing that,  if  we  survived,  he  would  always  be 
delighted  to  welcome  me  in  his  home,  and 
that  it  would  give  him  a  very  real  pleasure  to 
present  me  to  his  wife.  Then,  turning  to 
Osborne  and  Moodie,  he  extended  the  same 
invitation.    Naturally  this  pleased  us  all  greatly. 

That  same  night  I  asked  Conrad  what  first 
induced  him  to  take  up  literary  work.  He 
was  silent  for  some  minutes,  and  then  said,  as 
if  he  had  considered  my  question  :  "  Well, 
Commander,  I  was  a  long  time  on  shore." 
What  he  meant  by  that  I  don't  know  to  this 
day,  and  as  he  did  not  enlighten  me,  I  did  not 
ask. 

It  is  a  curious  thing  that  followers  of  the 
sea  seldom  or  never  betray  the  slightest  curi- 
osity in  connection  with  the  antecedents  or 
private  affairs  of  each  other.  I  have  been 
shipmates  for  twelve  months  at  a  time  with 
men  without  knowing  whether  they  were 
married  or  single,  where  they  came  from,  or 
what  their  future  intentions  were.  I  suppose 
it  was   partly  for   the   reason  that   I   was    not 

134 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

interested  ;  I  could  have  asked,  but  there  was 
always  something  about  it  all  which  pre- 
vented me,  and  there  was  always  this  some- 
thing which  prevented  others  from  knowing 
any  more  than  I  did.  Sailors  are  not  com- 
municative about  their  homes  or  their  affairs  ; 
they  know  each  other's  names,  and  that  appears 
to  be  good  enough  to  go  on  with. 

I  candidly  confess  I  was  most  curious  about 
Conrad.  I  wanted  to  ask  him  hundreds  of 
things  that  I  would  greatly  like  to  have 
known,  but  couldn't.  Had  he  been  purely  an 
author,  or  any  other  kind  of  landsman,  I  should 
have  had  no  hesitation  ;  but  he  was  a  seaman 
as  well  :  I  could  never  get  away  from  that, 
and  so  my  tongue  was  tied,  and  I  had  to  rest 
content  with  what  he  was  pleased  to  tell  me. 
Perhaps  it  was  that  he  had  told  me  so  much 
and  interested  me  so  much  that,  like  Oliver 
Twist,  I  wanted  more.  Anyway,  I  was  never 
the  first  to  rise  from  the  cuddy  table  during 
our  long  talks  after  supper,  and  willingly 
would  I  have  remained,  even  to  daybreak,  had 
it  not  been  that  there  was  always  a  possibility 
of  much  to  do  on  the  morrow. 

We  had  not  played  cards  since  falling   in 
with  the  British  submarine,  and  three  nights 

135 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

before  we  made  the  coast  Osborne  suggested 
that  play  should  be  resumed.  Conrad  readily 
agreed,  and  we  played  until  it  was  time  to 
man  the  pumps.  Osborne  brought  the  card 
book  out,  and  as  far  as  I  can  remember  the 
biggest  loss  was  not  more  than  two  shillings, 
so  that  the  play  was  throughout  very  even. 
The  wind  remained  in  the  east,  varying  from 
north-east  to  south-east,  and  we  were  not 
obliged  to  do  any  beating  to  windward.  The 
weather,  too,  held  good,  which  was  a  blessing 
after  all  the  atrocious  weather  we  had  experi- 
enced on  the  outer  passage.  Night  sleep  was 
less  disturbed,  and  we  felt  much  fresher  for 
the  benefit  of  it. 


136 


CHAPTER    XI 

The  following  morning  it  was  Osborne's  turn 
to  take  over  charge  of  the  deck  at  six  o'clock, 
and  when  daylight  broke  he  called  me  to 
report  that  a  submarine  was  in  sight.  Conrad 
and  I  turned  out  immediately,  jumped  into 
our  sea  boots,  and  were  on  deck  in  an  instant. 
Osborne  had  turned  everybody  out,  and  having 
handed  me  his  binoculars  superintended  the 
clearing  away  of  the  guns.  I  turned  to  speak 
to  Conrad,  but  found  that  he  had  not  waited 
for  orders,  but  had  bolted  down  to  the  cuddy 
for  the  confidential  books,  and  a  moment  or 
two  later  reported  to  me  for  orders.  He 
remarked,  with  a  smile  of  satisfaction,  that 
surely  our  luck  would  be  in  this  time.  He 
was  fearfully  anxious  that  this  should  be  the 
case.  Alas  !  We  were  again  doomed  to  dis- 
appointment, as  she,  too,  proved  to  be  British. 
I  shouted  down  to  Rampling  that  he  could 
let  his  engines  cool  down.  "  What  .?  "  replied 
he,  "  another  Britisher .? "  and  when  I  answered 
in  the  affirmative,  I  heard  Rampling  muttering 

137 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

"  My    Gawd,    and    some    people   ask,  '  What 
is  the  Navy  doing  ? '  " 

We  had  a  good  beam  wind,  and  with  all 
sail  set  were  fast  approaching  the  coast.  Dur- 
ing the  afternoon  a  British  airship  crossed 
and  recrossed  over  us,  and  as  it  descended 
to  scrutinise  us  the  better  we  could  see  its 
occupants  were  examining  us  closely  through 
binoculars.  We  were  still  flying  the  Nor- 
wegian ensign,  and  as  we  were  not  sure  whether 
she  could  see  our  guns  or  not,  we  brought  up 
our  largest-size  white  ensign,  and  spreading  it 
out  flat  on  the  deck  pointed  to  it  ;  on  which 
the  airship  made  off  for  the  coast.  Later,  we 
learnt  that  she  reported  us  to  her  headquarters 
as  a  suspicious  vessel. 

Just  before  dark  we  sighted  the  English 
coast,  but  knowing  that  we  could  do  nothing 
during  the  night,  and  in  order  to  keep  clear 
of  shipping,  we  stood  out  to  sea  until  daylight. 

The  wind  was  light  and  variable,  with 
a  smooth  sea,  so  we  just  sailed  about,  altering 
our  courses  so  as  to  bring  us  at  daylight  to 
a  position  about  five  miles  east  of  Grimsby,  as 
we  thought  it  unlikely  that  an  enemy  sub- 
marine would  be  on  the  surface  much  inside 
that  distance. 

138 


AIKSmi'    WHICH     RKl'OKIKD    US    AS    A    SUSPICIOUS    VKSSEI. 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

We  remained  on  deck  until  ten  p.m.,  then 
sat  in  the  cuddy  till  midnight,  talking,  as 
sailors  always  will,  of  their  sea  experiences. 

Conrad  listened  rather  than  talked  on  this 
particular  night,  and  was  interested  in  my 
Klondyke  experiences  in  1898,  and  of  the 
shooting  of  Soapy  Smith,  a  notorious  Alaskan 
highwayman,  which  I  witnessed  in  Skagway, 
a  small  port  at  the  foot  of  the  White  and 
Chilcoot  Passes,  over  which  one  had  to  climb 
to  get  to  Dawson  City.  Osborne,  too,  had 
some  thrilling  experiences  to  tell  him,  all  of 
which  he  greatly  enjoyed. 

At  daylight  we  sighted  a  submarine  about 
i^  miles  on  our  starboard  bow,  and  altered 
course  in  her  direction.  The  wind  was  very 
light  at  the  time,  so  we  made  little  headway. 
Before  we  could  get  near  enough,  even  to 
make  out  her  nationality,  a  cloud  of  smoke 
appeared  from  the  entrance  to  the  Humber,  out 
of  which  emerged  four  destroyers,  steaming 
at  top  speed  in  the  submarine's  direction, 
forced  her  to  submerge,  and  she  was  lost  to 
us.  Had  we  been  left  to  it,  and  had  she 
remained  on  the  surface,  we  should,  no  doubt, 
have  got  her  ;  but  our  chance  was  spoilt,  our 
optimism  reduced  to    a    minus   quantity,  and 

139 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

feeling  that  our  luck  was  dead  out,  I  sent  a 
wireless  message  to  Granton  asking  permission 
to  return  to  harbour.  This  being  approved,  I 
headed  away  for  Flamborough  Head. 

The  wind  increased  very  slightly,  but  the 
glass  was  falling,  and  as  heavy  clouds  were 
gathering  I  felt  that  we  were  in  for  a  bad  night. 

Towards  evening  we  sighted  minesweeping 
trawlers  to  the  north,  so  steered  in  shore  so  as 
to  intercept  them.  I  suggested  to  Conrad 
that  he  might  like  to  land  in  the  vicinity,  and 
so  shorten  his  train  journey  from  the  north  to 
his  home.  He  at  first  wouldn't  hear  of  it,  as 
he  thought  we  might  still  have  a  chance  of  a 
scrap  ;  but  I  held  out  little  hope,  and  in  the 
end  he  decided  to  take  advantage  of  my  offer. 

As  the  minesweepers  closed  on  us  I  made  a 
signal  to  the  senior  officer  of  the  unit  informing 
him  that  I  wished  to  communicate  with  him. 
On  receiving  this,  to  my  surprise  he  signalled 
to  the  other  vessels  of  his  unit  to  spread,  and 
they  took  up  positions  far  apart  from  one 
another.  I  then  signalled  requesting  him  to 
be  good  enough  to  land  a  passenger  from  my 
ship,  also  to  send  a  boat  for  this  purpose.  We 
were  still  under  the  Norwegian  flag,  which, 
naturally,  made  the  officer  in  charge  take  every 

140 


ika\vi,f<:r  which  lanhed  mr.  conkai> 
HRii)i.i\(;i'nN 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

possible  precaution  ;  so  that  when  he  sent 
a  boat  alongside  with  armed  men  under  the 
command  of  a  lieutenant,  the  astonishment  of 
that  officer,  on  stepping  over  the  gangway  and 
finding  the  vessel  armed  as  she  was,  may  be 
imagined.  He  looked  hurriedly  aloft  at  the 
ensign,  to  make  sure  he  hadn't  made  any  mis- 
take, and  even  when  I  had  introduced  myself 
he  seemed  doubtful.  Conrad  was  an  amused 
spectator  of  all  this,  and  I  must  say  I  enjoyed 
it  not  a  little  myself.  My  invitation  to  the 
officer  to  descend  to  the  cuddy  was  not  readily 
accepted,  so  once  again  the  confidential  books 
were  sent  for,  and  these  reassured  our  visitor, 
who  thereupon  signalled  to  his  senior  that 
everything  was  in  order.  He  then  informed 
us  of  the  airship's  signal  which  they  had 
intercepted,  and  how  on  sighting  us  they  had 
thought  that  they  had  really  fallen  in  with 
the  strange  suspicious  craft.  Not  knowing 
our  armament,  the  senior  officer  decided  not 
to  have  his  vessels  in  what  he  described  as  a 
"bunch,"  lest  we  should  open  fire  from  guns 
heavier  than  their  modest  six-pounders.  The 
senior  officer,  having  signalled  his  willingness 
to  land  Conrad,  immediately  proceeded  to  re- 
form his    unit,  during    which   time  we  were 

141 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

regaled  with  the  latest  news,  the  officer  also 
very  kindly  sending  his  boat  to  collect  news- 
papers for  us. 

Soon  afterwards  Conrad  bade  us  good-bye, 
every  man  coming  up  from  below  to  bid  him 
farewell,  and  as  he  passed  over  the  side  there 
was  not  a  soul  on  board  who  did  not  feel  that 
he  had  lost  not  only  a  very  real  friend,  but 
also  a  very  good  shipmate. 

Our  vessel,  which  had  been  "  hauled  to  the 
wind "  with  the  fore-yard  aback,  was  then 
headed  to  the  north,  and  in  the  twilight — 
both  going  in  opposite  directions — we  soon 
lost  sight  of  each  other. 

The  wind  increased  during  the  first  watch, 
and  at  midnight  was  blowing  very  hard.  At 
four  A.M.  Osborne  called  me  and  told  me  that 
the  whole  of  the  North  Sea  was  in  the  cuddy, 
and  certainly  there  was  a  certain  amount  of  it. 
Between  that  time  and  our  arrival  at  Granton 
we  experienced  our  very  worst  weather,  and  I 
felt  somewhat  relieved  that  Conrad  had  missed 
it.  Our  light  square  sails  and  upper  staysails 
were  blown  to  ribbons,  and  our  rigging  badly 
damaged. 

On  nearing  May  Island  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Firth  of  Forth    we  unshipped  all  our 

142 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH   CONRAD 

disguises,  unmounted  our  guns,  painted  out  the 
Norwegian  ensigns  on  the  bows  and  quarters 
of  the  hull,  and  ran  up  the  red  ensign,  in 
order  to  deceive  any  neutral  vessels  which  we 
might  pass  or  overhaul  in  the  Firth. 

There  was  a  howling  gale  behind  us  and 
with  the  flood  tide  we  went  along  at  a  great 
pace.  At  the  Examination  Anchorage  we 
were  challenged  and  directed  to  proceed  to 
Leith,  but  on  satisfying  the  officer-in-charge 
were  allowed  to  proceed.  Then  came  the 
tricky  work  of  manoeuvring  between  the  fifty 
odd  vessels  at  anchor  in  order  to  pick  up  a 
sheltered  berth,  the  hauling  to  the  wind,  and 
eventually,  with  the  helm  hard-a-lee,  the  main- 
sail to  windward  and  the  fore-yard  aback,  we 
dropped  our  anchor  after  certainly  a  novel  and 
experimental  experience.  It  was  nearly  forty- 
eight  hours  later  before  the  weather  moderated 
sufficiently  to  allow  us  to  land. 

Conrad  certainly  left  a  great  impression  on 
me,  and  this,  I  know,  was  quite  apart  from 
that  subconscious  influence  which  the  study 
of  his  writings  for  years  previous  had  had 
upon  me.  To  me,  having  lived  with  him  in 
fair  weather  and  in  foul,  the  thought  always 
in   my  mind  was   that   he   could   never   have 

143 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

remained  merely  a  seaman  ;  his  genius  and 
temperament  forbade  this.  The  quality  of 
his  brain  being  of  so  alert  and  virile  a  nature, 
even  the  constant  warring  with  the  elements 
would  not  have  given  him  sufficient  outlet 
for  his  creative  powers.  The  poetry  of  the 
man's  mind  required  the  possibility  of  constant 
expression.  His  characters  are  live  people, 
and  in  my  old  sailing  days  I  met  them 
frequently.  He  describes  them,  not  only  as 
he  saw  them,  but  as  they  saw  themselves,  and 
also  as  they  saw  others.  He  read  men's  minds 
and  knew  their  innermost  thoughts.  He 
revealed  beauty  as  he  saw  it  in  language 
which  his  marvellous  genius  has  enriched. 
He,  in  all  his  works,  extols  all  that  is  great 
and  wonderful  in  life,  and  portrays  not  in 
words  but  by  inference  the  true  beauty  of 
righteousness. 

To  a  student  of  psychology  Conrad  would 
have  been  a  wonderful  study.  He  was,  to  me, 
intellectually  head  and  shoulders  over  any  man 
I  had  ever  met.  His  charm,  his  ideas,  his 
outlook  on  life  generally  were  to  me  wonder- 
ful, and  much  as  'X  puzzled  me  then,  it  has 
since  puzzled  me  still  more  how  he,  a  Polish 
aristocrat,  should  have  adopted  as  a  profession 

144 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

the  sea,  with  all  the  cramped  hardships  of 
forty  years  ago  in  pilot  vessels  out  of  Marseilles, 
in  small  sailing  craft  in  the  Mediterranean, 
and  later  in  the  crack  flyers  out  of  England. 
A  sailor  spending  his  life  on  the  waste  of 
waters  is  naturally  a  dreamer.  Hours  at  the 
wheel,  with  every  stitch  of  canvas  set  in 
the  trade  winds,  with  little  to  do  but  keep  the 
weather  leach  of  the  mizzen-royal  shivering, 
or  at  the  weather  ear-ring  when  reefing  a 
topsail,  the  sailor  is  always  the  same,  always 
dreaming  ;  and  what  visions  Conrad,  with  his 
great  imagination,  must  have  conjured  up  in 
these  varied  and  trying  circumstances  ! 

I  had  been  wondering  whether  I  should 
have  the  good  fortune  to  meet  him  again 
when  I  was  reassured  by  a  letter  which  arrived 
at  the  Base  from  him,  and  was  sent  on  board 
(the  weather  had  not  sufficiently  moderated 
to  make  it  desirable  for  me  to  land).  He 
thanked  me  for  what  he  was  good  enough  to 
describe  as  "  my  true  seaman-like  hospitality," 
and  repeated  the  wish  that  I  should  visit  him, 
asking  me  at  the  same  time  to  extend  his 
invitation  to  certain  other  members  of  the 
crew.  Then  followed  an  account  of  his  land- 
ing at  Bridlington,  and  the  kindness  he  had 
K  145 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

received  from  the  minesweeping  officers, 
whom  he  invited  to  breakfast  w^ith  him  at  his 
hotel  on  the  following  morning  ;  of  the  visit 
of  a  police  officer  during  the  meal  asking  him 
to  explain  his  landing  from  a  sailing  vessel 
flying  a  foreign  flag,  and  his  satisfactory  replies  ; 
and,  finally,  more  grateful  remarks  on  the 
kindness  and  consideration  shown  to  him  both 
by  myself  and  those  serving  under  me,  ending 
up  with  the  ten  words  quoted  in  my  opening 
chapter,  "  The  Brotherhood  of  the  Sea  is  no 
mere  empty  phrase." 

I  made  two  more  trips  in  command  of  the 
brigantine,  each  extending  over  three  weeks, 
but  without  any  results.  It  was  thought  that 
she  was  known  to  the  German  submarine 
commanders,  who  let  her  pass  on  her  way.  I 
then  returned  to  minesweeping,  and  Osborne, 
on  my  strong  recommendation,  was  appointed 
in  command. 

In  the  meantime  other  sailing  vessels  had 
been  fitted  out,  all  of  them  being  placed  under 
the  orders  of  Admiral  Sir  Alexander  Duff, 
K.C.B.,  then  Deputy  Chief  of  the  Naval  Staff; 
and  my  old  brigantine,  under  Osborne's  com- 
mand, was  ordered  to  the  English  Channel. 
On    the    1 6th   June    19 17    she    engaged   two 

146 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

German  submarines  off  the  coast  of  Brittany 
(one  of  them  being  disguised  as  a  ketch),  and 
after  a  prolonged  and  gallant  action  sent  one 
to  the  bottom  totally  destroyed,  gaining  for  the 
officers  and  crew  two  Distinguished  Service 
Crosses,  three  Distinguished  Service  Medals, 
and  the  thanks  of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of 
the  Admiralty. 

It  was  characteristic  of  Osborne  to  write  to 
Conrad  and  myself  on  his  return  to  harbour, 
saying  that  after  the  action  his  one  regret  was 
that  we  were  not  on  board  at  the  time  ;  also 
that  this  regret  was  shared  by  the  whole 
ship's  company. 

After  the  Armistice  Conrad  sent  me  a  very 
cordial  invitation  to  stay  with  him,  but  as  I 
was  at  the  time  engaged  in  clearing  the  sea 
of  mines,  British  as  well  as  German,  I  was 
unable  to  accept  ;  in  fact  it  was  not  until  the 
summer  of  this  year  that  I  met  my  old 
"  Comrade  in  Arms "  again.  I  suggested  to 
him  that  the  time  was  ripe  for  my  long- 
deferred  visit,  to  which  he  lost  no  time  in 
replying,  adding  that  he  would  meet  me  at 
the  railway  station  with  his  car. 

The  train  by  which  I  travelled  steamed 
punctually  into  the  station,  but  alas  !  there  was 

147 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

no  Conrad  and  no  car.  Later,  he  turned  up 
brimful  of  laughter  and  apologies,  explaining 
that  he  had  abandoned  his  own  car  in  mid- 
road  and  transferred  his  flag  to  this  jury-rigged 
arrangement,  as  he  described  a  very  worn  and 
rickety  old  taxi.  A  mile  from  the  station  his 
own  car  hove  in  sight,  and  in  this — a  magni- 
ficent smooth-running  Cadillac  —  we  soon 
covered  the  six  or  seven  miles  to  his  home. 
As  we  swung  into  the  drive  Conrad  looked 
skywards  and  smilingly  whispered,  "  The  sun 
is  over  the  fore-yard."  As  a  sailor  I  knew 
what  he  meant,  and  I  was  glad,  because,  as 
some  writers  would  describe  it,  "  It  was  near 
high  noon." 

Some  few  minutes  later  we  celebrated  our 
reunion.  He  was  delightful,  full  of  laughter, 
and  when  he  presented  me  to  Mrs  Conrad 
and  the  other  members  of  his  household  he 
gave  me  the  true  Conradion  impression  that 
I  was  the  one  person  in  all  this  wide  world 
that  he  most  wished  to  meet. 

In  his  study,  with  its  shelves  on  three  sides 
full  of  books,  we  talked  for  an  hour.  He 
recalled  many  incidents  of  the  cruise,  and 
nearly  five  years  later  had  not  forgotten  the 
names  of  different  members  of  the  crew. 

148 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

At  luncheon  we  laughed  as  we  recalled  our 
menus  on  shipboard,  starting  with  all  the 
delicacies  in  season,  and  ending  with  salt 
horse  (as  sailors  describe  salt  beef)  and  hard 
biscuits. 

Afterwards  he  showed  me  round  his  wonder- 
ful gardens,  and  on  his  well-rolled,  carefully 
trimmed  lawn,  which  he  called  his  "  Quarter 
deck,"  we  walked  arm-in-arm,  as  we  had  done 
many  and  many  a  time  on  the  deck  of  the  old 
Freya.  It  was  a  lovely  day  in  June  ;  the 
trees  were  in  full  leaf  and  the  flowers  in 
bloom  ;  the  sun  was  shining  gloriously  and 
the  birds  singing  to  their  hearts'  content  :  it 
was  a  day  when  one  felt  that  it  was  good  to 
be  alive  ;  and  yet  we  would  have  given  every- 
thing, risked  all,  for  one  glorious  hour  of 
battle  with  an  enemy  submarine. 

After  tea  I  took  my  leave,  after  a  truly 
delightful  and  most  enjoyable  day.  What 
I  felt  on  leaving  was  that  I  had  been  "  At 
sea  with  Mr  Conrad "  and  "  At  home  with 
Mr  Conrad" — two  great  privileges;  but  what 
was  to  me  greater  than  all  was  that  I  had 
made  a  friend  of  Mr  Conrad. 

Since  my  visit  to  him  it  has  many  times 
occurred  to  me  that  the  countless  admirers  of 

149 


AT  SEA  WITH  JOSEPH  CONRAD 

Conrad's  works  would  be  interested  to  read  of 
the  great  part  he  nobly  played  in  the  Great 
War  for  Civilisation.  He  chose  the  three 
most  dangerous  sides — the  Q-brigantine,  mine- 
sweeping  and  flying — at  an  age,  too,  when 
thousands  of  men  years  younger  than  himself 
were  excused  from  serving.  My  attempt, 
unpractised  and  unliterary  as  it  may  seem,  can 
convey  only  but  a  poor  idea  of  the  great 
charm  of  the  man — his  love  of  the  sea  and 
seamen  ;  his  kindness  and  thoughtfulness  for 
others  ;  his  nobility  ;  his  bravery  and  every- 
thing about  him,  which  brought  to  mind 
Kipling's  conception  of  "  The  Hundredth 
Man."  Having  said  this  much,  my  story  is 
ended. 


150 


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