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RILEY, Jas. An Authentic Narrative
of the Loss of the American Brig Com-
imerce, wrecked on the Western Coast of
Africa, in the Month of Aug., 1815. With
an Account of the Sufferings of her Sur-
viving Oiificers & Crew, who were en-
slaved by the Wandering Arabs on the
Great African esert, or Zahahrah. Map;
Plates by A. Anderson, Gimbrede. 8vo.
calf (joint broken). N. Y., T. & W. Mer-
cein for the Author, 1817. $4.00
First and best edition of this one-time famous and
immensely popular narrative of suffering and adveture.
At the end the former slave expresses his horror of
American slavery: "I HAVE LEARNED TO LOOK
WITH COMPASSION ON MY ENSLAVED FEL-
LOW CREATURES AND MY FUTURE LIFE
SHALL BE DEVOTED TO THEIR CAUSE."
. Digitized by the Internet Arclnive
in 2010 with funding from
The Institute of Museum and Library Services through an Indiana State Library LSTA Grant
http://www.archive.org/details/authenticnarratiOOrile
(Xmlwde ST.
(DAFT JAMlKiS IRHH^M^rc
Arit//rnt 1/ for /iix /Yfrr/vrfn r z'/' Siifffn/if/j:
/ini/ 7 rill r/.y //i . tO-im .
AN
AUTHENTIC NARRATIVE
OF THE LOSS OF THE
AMERICAN BRIG COMMERCE,
WRECKED ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, IN THE MONTH
OF AUGUST, 1815.
WITH
AN ACCOUNT OF THE SUFFERINGS
OF HER
SURVIVING OFFICERS AND CREW,
WHO WEBE ENSLAVED BY THE WANDERING ARABS ON THE GREAT
AFRICAN DESART, OR ZAHAHRAH;
""" AND
OBSERVATIONS HISTORICAL, GEOGRAPHICAL, &c.
MADE DURING THE TRAVELS OF THE AUTHOR, WHILE A SLAVE TO
THE ARABS, AND IN THE EMPIRE OF MOROCCO.
BY JAMES FtlLEY,
LATE MASTER AND SUPERCARGO.
PRECEDED BY A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR'S LIFE ; AND CONCLUDED BV
A DESCRIPTION OF THE FAMOUS CITY OF TOMBUCTOO, ON THE RIVER NIGER,
AND OF ANOTHER LARGE CITY, FAR SOUTH OF IT, ON THE SAME RIVER, CALL-
ED WASSANAH ; narrated to the author at m^gadore, by SIDI HA-
MET, the ARABIAN MERCHANT.
WITH AN ARABIC AND ENGLISH VOCABULARY.
ILLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH TEN HAND-
SOME COPI'ERPL.\TE ENGRAVINGS.
NEW-YORK :
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR,
By T. & W. Mercein, No. 93 Gold-Street.
• • •• •••
1817.
v"* #
Southern District of New-York, S».
BE IT REMEMBERED, That ou the third day of October, is the foKy-
Srst year of the Independence of the United States of America, [A. D. 1816,] James
Riley, of the said District, hath deposited in this Office the title of a Book, the right
whereof he claims as Author and Proprietor, in the words and figures following, to wit :
" An Authentic Narrative of the loss of the American brig Commerce, wrecked on the
WcstemCoast of Africa, in the month of August, 1815. With an account of the suffer-
ings of her surviving Officers and Crew, who were enslaved by the wandering Arabs
on the great African Desart, or Zahahrah ; and observations Historical, Geographical,
&c made during the Travels of the Author, while a slave to the Arabs, and in the
Empire of Morocco. By James Riley, late Master and Supercargo ; preceded by a
brief sketch of the Author's life, and concluded by a description of the famous city of
Tornbuctoo, on the River Niger, and of another large city far south of it, on the same
ri^er, called Wassanah, narrated to the Author at Mogadore, by Sidi Hamet, the
Arabian merchant ; with an Arabic and English Vocabulary ; Illustrated and Embel-
lished with ten handsome coppei-plate Engravings.
In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act for
the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books to
the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, during the time therein mentioned."
And also to an Act, entitled " an Act, supplementary to an Act, entitled an Act for
the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books
to the >iUthors and Proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned,
and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching
histerical and other prints."
THERON RUDD, Clerk of the
Sonlhem District of New-Yerkv
m^5
4^4
TO THE READER.
The following Narrative of my misfortunes and
sufferings, and my consequent travels and observa-
tions in Africa, is submitted to the perusal of a can-
did and an enlightened public, with much diffidence,
particularly as I write without having had the ad-
vantages that may be derived from an Academic
education, and being quite unskilled in the art of
composing for the press. My aim has been merely
to record, in plain and unvarnished language, scenes
in which I was a principal actor, of real and heart-
appalling distresses. The very deep and indelible
impression made on my mind by the extraordinary
circumstances attending my late shipwreck, and the
miserable captivity of myself and my surviving ship-
mates, and believing that a knowledge of many of
these incidents might prove useful and interesting to
the world, as well as peculiarly instructive to my
sea-faring brethren; together with the strong and
repeated solicitations of many of my valuable friends,
among whom was the honourable James Munroe,
Secretary of State, and several distinguished mem-
bers of Congress : these considerations, together
with a view of being enabled by my labours to afford
some relief to the surviving sufferers, and the desti-
tute families of that part of my late crew, whose lot
it was to perish in Africa, or who are still groaning
out the little remains of their existence in the cruel
bonds of barbarian slavery, have induced me to un-
dertake the very arduous and difficult task of pre-
paring and publishing a work so large and expen-
sive.
IV TO THE READEU.
The Narrative up to the time of my redemptioR.
was written entirelj from memory, unaided bj notes
or any journal, but I committed the principal facts
to writing in Mogadore, when every circumstance
was fresh in ray memory, (which is naturaHy a re-
tentive one,) and I then compared my own recollec-
tions with those of ray ransomed companions : this
was done with a view of showing to my friends the
unparalleled sufferings I had endured, and not for the
particular purpose of making them public by means
of the press. It should be remembered by the
reader, that the occurrences here recorded, took
place out of the common course of a sailor's life ;
and that each particular event was of a nature cal-
culated to impress itself so powerfully on the mind,
as not easily to be effaced. Having previously, in
the course of my life, visited and travelled through
several foreign countries, my mind was by no means
unaccustomed to pay attention to, and make obser-
vations on whatever came within the reach of my
notice, and for this reason, the strange events of the
desart, and the novel objects-and scenes which I had
an opportunity of witnessing in the country of the
Moors, were not suffered to pass without awakening
and exercising my curiosity as well as interest, and
becoming the subject of careful and habitual reflec-
tions.
Respecting ray conversations with the Arabs, I
have put down Avhat I knew at the time to be their
exact meaning, as nearly as I could translate their
words and signs combined. I had, previously, learn-
ed the French and Spanish languages, both by gram-
mar and practice, and had also been accustomed to
hear spoken the Russian and different dialects of the
German, as well as the Portuguese, Italian, and
several other languages, so that my ear had become
familiar with their sounds and pronunciation. Per-
TO THE READER. Y
ceiving an affinity between the Arabian and Spanish,
I soon began to learn the names of common things,
in Arabic, and to compare them in my mind with
those I had met with in Turkish and other Oriental
history. I had no hope of ever being redeemed,
unless I could make myself understood, and I there-
fore took the utmost care to treasure up every word
and sentence I heard spoken by the Arabs, to reflect
on their bearing, and to find out t94, fifth line from top, for " was," read were.
131. sixth line from fop, for " from " read of
138, ninth line from bottom, over the letter c in the word " Fonte,"
put the mark of ihe accent '
175, first and second lines, for " but," read and ; and for " afford-
ed," read offered.
269. fourteenth line, for "tenaced," rearf terraced.
310, fifteenth line, strike out " my."
472, third line, transpose " an," before "old."
473, last line but one, for " possed," read passed.
476, sixth line, for " bed-spreads," read beds-spread.
485, seventeenth line, strike out ( ; ) and insert ( > )
All the errors in punctuation are not b«re noticed.
CERTIFICATES.
Captain James Riley has submitted his narrative to my pe-
rusal, and 1 have read it over with great care and attention. I was
his second mate on board the Commerce, and one of his unfortu-
nate companions throui;;h, and a sharer in his dreadful suiferings
and captivity, on the inhospitable shores and desarts of Africa, and
I am astonished to find with what precision the whole of those inci-
dents are related — it recalls to my memory all those dismal occur-
rences and distresses, and I do hereby certify that the narrative up
to the time of our separation in Mogadore, contains nothing more
than a plain statement of facts, and that myself, as well as others
of the crew, owe our lives, liberties, and restoration to our coun-
try, under God, to his uncommon exertions, fortitude, intelli-
gence, and perseverance, and I hereby request him, as my friend,
lo publish this my certificate.
AARON R. SAVAGE.
Done at New-York, this \st day of}
February, A. D. loll. ] .
From the Hon. Da Witt Clinton,
1 have read part of Captain J. Riley's narrative of his shipwreck
on the coast of Africa, and of his travels into the interior of that con-
tinent, and I am of opinion that this work, on account of its illus-
trations of the geography of a country hitherto so little known, and
its descriptions of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, will
excitef great attention, and ought to command public pratronage :
while its affecting details of the extraordinary sufferings of himself
and his companions, are calculated, in an uncommon degree, to
interest the feelings of the reader. And, as Captain Riley is a man
of good character and respectable talents, I am persuaded that the
utmost confidence may be reposed in the correctness of his narrative.
DE WITT CLINTON.
Dated in the city of JVew-York,
f!i€ llih December, 1816.
NARRATIVE, &c.
CHAPTER I.
A brief Sketch of the Author's Life and Education,
up to the month of Mai/, 1815.
I WAS born in the town of Middletown, in the State of
Connecticut, on the 27th of October, in the year 1777,
during the war between England and America,
which terminated in 1783, with the acknowledgment
by the mother country of the freedom, sovereignty,
and independence of the thirteen United States. My
father, Asher Riley, who still lives in the same place,
was bred to the farming business, and at an early age
married my mother, Rebecca Sage, who is also
yet living. I was their fourth child. Owing to an at-
tack of that dangerous disorder, the liver complaint,
my father was rendered incapable of attending to his
usual employment for several years, during which
time, his property, very small at first, was entirely
expended ; but after his recovery, in 1786, he was
enabled, by industry and strict economy, to support
his increasing family in a decent manner.
It may not be improper here, before I speak
of my education, to give a general idea of what was
then termed a common education in Connecticut.
This state is divided into counties and towns, and the
towns into societies; in each of which societies, the
inhabitants, by common consent, and at their common
expense, erect a school-house in which to educate
their children. If the society is too large for only
one school, it is again subdivided into districts, and
2 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE
each district erects a school-house for its own
accommodation. This is generally done by a tax
levied by themselves, and apportioned according
to the property or capacity of each individual. It
being for the general good, all cheerfully pay their
apportionment. Thus prepared, they hire a teacher
to instruct their children in reading and writing, and
some of them are taught the fundamental rules of
arithmetic. They, for the most part, hire a male
teacher for four months in the year, say from October
to March, and his 'compensation (at the time I am
speaking of) was from six to ten dollars a month,
with his board. In order to obtain his board, he was
under the necessity of going to each of his employers'
houses in rotation, making his time in each family as
equal as possible and in proportion to the number of
children therein. In this way all the parents became
acquainted with the master or mistress. In the
summer one of the best informed girls in the neigh-
bourhood was selected to teach the youngest child-
ren. To defray the expense arising from this sys-
tem, a tax was laid, and every man, whether married
or ummarried, with children or without them, was
obliged to pay the sum at which he was rated, and
in this manner every one contributed for the good of
the whole. In each society one or more meeting-
houses were established, whose congregations were
either Presbyterians or Congregationalists, and a
minister (as he is called) regularly ordained and
located for a yearly stipend or salary, and generally
during life. This was an old and steady habit. The
minister was considered as the head of the school,
OP HIS OWN LIFE.
as well as of the meeting, and his like or dislike was
equivalent to a law. AH the children in each dis-
trict, whether rich or poor, went to this school : all
had an equal right to this kind of country education.
To one of these district schools I was sent at the'age
of four years, where I continued, learning to spell
and read, until I was eight years old, when my fa-
ther's family had increased to seven or eight child-
ren, with a fair prospect of more, (it afterwards
amounted to thirteen in number.)
Finding it difficult to support us all as he wished,
and I having become a stout boy of my age, he
placed me with a neighbouring farmer to earn my
living, by assisting him in his work. From the age
of eight to fourteen years I worked on the land
with diiTerent farmers in our neighbourhood, who
having received but a very scanty education them-
selves, conceited, nevertheless, that they were over-
stocked with learning, as is generally the case with
the most ignorant, and in this,, their fancied wis-
dom, concluded that much less than they them-
selves possessed would answer my purpose, as I
was but a poor boy ! ! Finding therefore that
they would lose my labour during school hours»
(for they had always taken great care to keep me
fully employed in hard drudgery every moment I
was out of school, scarcely allowing me the usual
hours of refreshment and sleep,) they kept me from
school, merely because, as they stated, they could
not get along with their work without my help.
When my parents remonstrated against such conduct
in those who had come under a most solemn agree-
ment to give me a plenty of schoolings they were assu*
4
CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE
red " that I was a very forward boy; that I could spell
and read as well as any of the boys of my age; that
I could repeat whole chapters in the Bible by heart,
and knew all the Catechism and Creed, viz. the
Presbyterian, which then was, and still is considered,
all important in that section of the union called
New-England : that I could sing psalms in the
separate meetings full as well as those who had
learned to sing by note, ' though indeed he cannot
write, (said they) because he has no turn for writing.'"
These representations tended in some measure to
allay the anxiety of my parents, who wished me above
all things to have a good common country education,
as they at that time had no prospect of being able to
give me any thing better. They had taught me,
both by precept and practice, that to be honest,
industrious, and prudent ; to goverty my passions,
(which were violent,) to feel for and relieve the
distresses of others when in my power ; to be mild
and affable in my manners, and virtuous in all my
actions, was to be happy ^ and they, generally, had
instilled into my youthful mind every good principle.
I had now attained my fifteenth year; was tall, stout,
and athletic for my age; and having become tired
of hard work on the land, I concluded that the best
ivay to get rid of it, was to go to sea and visit foreign
countries. My parents endeavoured to dissuade me
from this project, and wished me to learn some
mechanical trade; but finding that I could not fix my
mind upon any other business, they, with great
reluctance, consented to my choice ; and I, accord-
ingly, shipped on board a sloop bound to the West
OF HIS OWN LIFE. O
Indies. Having no friend to push me forward, no
dependence but on my own good conduct and exer-
tions, and being ambitious to gain some distinction
in the profession I had chosen, I contrived to acquire
some knowledge in the art of navigation, theoreti-
cally as well as practically, and at the age of twenty
years had passed through the grades of cabin boy,
cook, ordinary seaman, seaman, second mate, and
chief mate, on board different vessels. I was now
six feet and one inch in height, and proportionably
strong and athletic, when finding the sphere I then
moved in to be too limited for my views and wishes,
(it extending only from Connecticut River or New-
London to the West Indies, and back again,) I went
to New-York, where I was soon appointed to the
command of a good vessel, and since that time have
continued in similar employment; making voyages
in all climates usually visited by American ships;
traversing almost every sea, and travelling by land
through many of the principal states and empires of
the world. For several years I had charge of the
cargoes as well as of the vessels I sailed in, and
had a fair share of prosperity, until the month of
January 1808, when my ship, the Two Marys of
New- York, was seized by the French, as I took
shelter in Belle Isle, in the Bay of Biscay, from some
English men of war, being bound for Nantz; and the
ship, with her valuable cargo, was confiscated, under
the memorable Milan Decree of the 17th December,
1807, founded on the well known Orders in Council,
of the 1 1th November, of the same year. I remained
in France until the ship and cargo were condemned,
an] did not return to my native country and family,
till the latter part of the year 1809, with the loss, it
is true, of nearly all the property I had before ac-
quired, but wiser than I went out ; for I had learned
to read, write, and speak both the French and
Spanish languages; had travelled pretty much all
over France, where I had opportunities of witnessing
many important operations in the science of war,
calculated to attract my attention to the principles
upon which they were founded, and I, at the same
time, took lessons in the school of adversity, which
tended to prepare and discipline my mind for the
future hardships I was destined to undergo. I now
strov^e with ail my power to stem the tide of misfor-
tune, which began to set in against me with impetuous
force. I had become a husband and the father of
four children, who looked up to me for support,
and I strained every nerve to retrieve my lost fortune,
hy trading to sea; but it was of no avail; every
thing proved adverse, and after an absence of two
years to Spain, Portugal, the Brazils, Rio de la Plata,
or River of Silver, in South America, the West Indies,
New-Orleans, &c. I returned home at the commence-
ment of the late war (1812) penny less. Unarmed
commerce on the ocean, my element, was at an end
in an honourable way, and I could not obtain a
station I wished for in the navy, nor could I obtain
the command of a private armed vessel that suited
my views, owing to the want of funds ; nor would
I accept of the command of a vessel and the con-
signment of a cargo navigated contrary to the laws
of war under foreign licences: this I considered
OF HIS OWN LIFE, 7
would derogate from the character I always wished
to support, that of a true friend to my country,
(whether in prosperity or adversity,) and a firm
supporter of its laws and institutions, which I had
proved by long experience in the ways of the world
to be as good (at least) as those of any country under
heaven. Though the offers that were made me were
great and tempting, so that my acceptance of them
could scarcely have failed of producing me a hand-
some fortune, and that in a very short period,, yet
I remained at home during the whole war, making
use of all my faculties to gain a decent subsistence
for my family. Soon after the burning of the
Capitol and other public and private buildings
at the seat of government, by the enemy, in August
1814, when their commanders loudly threatened to
destroy every assailable place on the seaboard, I
believed the time was near when every arm would
be required for the general defence, particularly
at the exposed seaport towns ; and having enrolled
myself in a volunteer company of military exempt
artillerists, composed chiefly of masters and mates
of vessels ^nd seamen, I had the honour of being
chosen their captain. But our services were not
needed in the field.
CHAP. II.
Voyage in the Commerce from Connecticut River to
JYew-Orleatis.
After the close of the war, in April 1815, being
then in my native state, I was employed as master
and supercargo of the brig Commerce of Hartford,
6 VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE.
in Connecticut; a vessel nearly new, and well
fitted, of about two hundred and twenty tons burden,
belonging to Messrs. Riley & Brown, Josiah Savage
&L Co. and Luther Savage, of that city. A light
cargo was taken on board, and I shipped a crew,
consisting of the following persons, namely; George
Williams, chief mate, Aaron R. Savage, second mate,
William Porter, Archibald Robbins, Thomas Burns,
and James Clark, seamen, Horace Savage, cabin boy,
and Richard Deslisle, (a black man) cook. This man
had been a servant during the late war to Captain
Daniel Ketchum, of the 25th regiment of United Sates'
infantry, who distinguished himself by taking prison-
er the English Major-General Rial, at the dreadful
battle of Burlington heights, in upper Canada, and
by several other heroic achievements.
With this crew I proceeded to sea from the mouth
of Connecticut River, on the sixth day of May, 1815,
bound for New-Orleans. We continued to steer for
the Bahama Islands, as winds and weather permitted,
until the twentieth of the same month, when we
saw the southernmost part of the island of Abaco,
and passing the Hole in the Wall, on the twenty-first,
entered on the Grand Bahama Bank to the leeWard
of the northernmost Berri Islands; from thence, with
a fair wind and good breeze, we steered W. S. W.
twelve leagues; then S. S. W. about forty leagues,
crossing the Bank, in from three- to four fathoms wa-
ter. On the morning of the twenty-second we saw
the Orange Key on our starboard beam; altered
"our course, and ran off the Bank, leaving them on
our starboard hand, distant one league. The water
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE.
on this Great Bank, in most places, appears as white
as milk, owing to the white sand at the bottom
gleaming through it, and is so clear that an object,
the size of a dollar, can be easily seen lying on the
bottom in four fathoms water, in a still time. Hav-
ing got off the Bank, we steered W. S. W. for the
Double-headed Shot Bank, and at meridian found
ourselves, by good observations, in the latitude of 24.
30. being nearly that of the Orange Keys. In
the afternoon it became nearly calm, but a good
breeze springing up, we continued our course all
niglit W. S. W. I remained on deck myself, on a
sharp look out for the Double-headed Shot Bank,
or Keys, until four o'clock A. M. when judging by our
distance we must be far past them, and consequently
clear of that danger, I ordered the chief mate, who
had charge of the watch, to keep a good look out, on
all sides, for land, white water and breakers ; and
after repeating the same to the people, I went
below to take a nap. At about five (then fair
daylight) I was awakened by a shock, and thought
I felt the vessel touch bottom. I sprang on deck, put
the helm to starboard, had all hands called in an in-
stant, and saw breakers ahead and to southward,
close on board ; apparently a sound on our right,
and land to the northward, at about two leagues dis-
tance. The vessel's head was towards the S. W. and
she running at the rate of ten miles the hour. I in-
stantly seized the helm, put it hard to port, ordered
all sails to be let run, and the anchors cleared away.
The vessel touched lightly, three or four times; when
I found she was over the reef, let go an anchor,
c
10 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
which brought her up in two and a half fathoms, or
fifteen feet of water, which was quite smooth. We
now handed all the sails, and lowered down the boat.
I went in her with four hands, and sounded out a
passage ; found plenty of water to leeward of the
reef; returned and got under way, and at seven
o'clock A. M. was in the open sea again, with a
fresh breeze.
This being the first time, in the course of my
navigating, that any vessel which I was in had struck
the bottom unexpectedly, I own I was so much sur-
prised and shocked, that my whole frame trembled,^
and I could scarcely believe that what had happened
was really true, until by comparing the causes and
effects of the currents in the Gulph Stream, I was
convinced that during the light winds, the day before,
when in the Santarem Channel, the vessel had been
drifted by the current that runs N. N, W. (and at
that time very strong) so far north of the Double-
headed Shot Bank ; that my course in the night,
though the only proper one I could have steered,
was such as kept the current on the larboard bow of
the vessel, which had horsed her across it sixty miles
out of her course in sixteen hours, and would have
landed her on the S. W. part of the Carysford Reef
in two minutes more, where she must have been
totally lost. As so many vessels of all nations who
navigate this stream have perished with their cargoes,
and oftentimes their crews, I mention this incident
to warn the navigator of the danger he is in when
his vessel is acted upon by these currents, where no
calculation can be (Jepended upon, and where no-
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 11
thing but very frequent castings of the lead, and
a good look out, can secure him from their too often
fatal consequences.
Having settled this point in my own mind, I be-
came tranquil, and we continued to run along the
Florida Keys from W. S. W. to West by South, in
from thirty to forty fathoms water, about four
leagues distant, seeing from one to two leagues with-
in us many rocks and little sandy islands, just above
the waters' edge, with a good depth of water all
around them, until noon on the 24th, when we doub-
led the dry Tortugas Islands in ten fathoms, and on
the 26th arrived in the Mississippi River, passed
Fort St. Philip at Pluquemines the same night, hav-
ing shown my papers to the commanding officer of
that post (as is customary.)
My previous knowledge of the river and the
manner of getting up it, enabled me to pass nearly
one hundred sail of vessels that were in before me,
and by dint of great and continued exertions, to
arrive with my vessel before the city of New-Orleans,
on the first day of June. Here we discharged our
cargo, and took another on board, principally on
freight, in which I was assisted by Messrs. Talcott &
Bowers, respectable merchants in that city. This car-
go consisted of tobacco and flour. The two ordinary
seamen, Francis Bliss and James Carrington, now
wished for a discharge, and received it. I then
shipped in their stead John Hogan and James Barrett,
both seamen and natives of the state of Massachusetts.
With this crew and cargo we sailed from New-
Orleans on the twenty-fourth of June ; left the river
X2 Captain riley's narrative.
6n the twenty-sixth, and proceeded for Gibraltar,
where we arrived on the ninth of August following,
and landed our cargo. About the thirteenth the
schooner — , Capt. Price, of andfromNew-Yorkj
in a short passage, came into the Bay, and the cap-
tain on his landing told me he was bound up to
Barcelona, and that if I would go on board his vessel,
which was then standing off and on in the Bay, he
would give me a late New-York Price Current, and
some newspapers. I was in great want of a Price
Current for my guide in making purchases, and ac-
cordingly went on board. The wind blowing strong
in, and the vessel far out, I had to take four men
with me, namely, James Clark, James Barrett,
William Porter, and John Hogan. Having received
the Price Current &c. I left the schooner about sun-
set, when they immediately filled her sails and stood
on. As we were busied in stepping the boat's mast
to sail back, a toppling sea struck her, and nearly
filled her with water ; we all jumped instantly over-
board, in the hope of preventing her from filling, but
she filled immediately. Providentially the captain of
the schooner heard me halloo, though at least a mile
from us; put his vessel about, came near us, sent his
boat, and saved our lives and our boat, which being
cleared of water, and it being after dark, we returned
safe alongside of the brig by ten o'clock at night.
When the boat filled, we were more than three
miles from the Rock, in the Gut, where the current
would have set us into the Mediterranean, and we
must have inevitably perished before morning, but
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE* i'S
we were spared, in order to suffer a severer doom,
and miseries worse than death, on the barbarous
shores of Africa.
We now took on board part of a cargo of brandies
and wines, and some dollars, say about two thousand,
and an old man, named Antonio Michel, a native
of New-Orleans, who had previously been wrecked
on the island of Teneriffe, and was recommended to
my charity by Mr. Gavino, who at that time exerci-
sed the functions of American Consul at Gibraltar.
CHAP. III.
Voyage from Gibraltar towards the Cape de Verd
Islands, including the shipwreck of the brig Com-
merce on the coast of Jifrica.
We set sail from the bay of Gibraltar, on the
23d of August, 1815, intending to go by way of
the Cape de Verd Islands, to complete the lading of
the vessel with salt. We passed Gape Spartel on
the morning of the 24th, giving it a birth of from,
ten to twelve leagues, and steered off to the W. S. W.
I intended to make the Canary Islands, and pass be-
tween Teneriffe and Palma, having a fair wind ; but
it being very thick and foggy weather, though we
got two observations at noon, neither could be much
depended upon. On account of the fog. We saw no
land, and found, by good meridian altitudes on the
twenty-eighth, that we were in the latitude of 27.
30. N. having differed our latitude by the force of
14 CAPTAIISI RILEY's NARRATIVE.
current, one hundred and twenty miles ; thus pass-
ing the Canaries without seeing any of them. I
concluded we must have passed through the intend-
ed passage without discovering the land on either
side, particularly, as it was in the night, which was
very dark, and black as pitch; nor could I believe
otherwise from having had a fair wind all the way,
and having steered one course ever since we took
our departure from Cape Spartel. Soon after we
got an observation on the 28th, it became as thick
as ever, and the darkness seemed (if possible) to
increase. Towards evening I got up my reckoning,
and examined it all over, to be sure that I had com-
mitted no error, and caused the mates to do the
same with theirs. Having thus ascertained that I
was correct in calculation, I altered our course to
S. W. which ought to have carried us nearly on the
course I wished to steer, that is, for the easternmost
of the Cape de Verds; but finding the weather be-
coming more foggy towards night, it being so thick
that we could scarcely see the end of the jib-boomi,
I rounded the vessel to, and sounded with one hun-
dred and twenty fathoms of line, but found no bot-
tom, and continued on our course, still reflecting on
what should be the cause of our not seeing land,
^as I never had passed near the Canaries before
without seeing them, even in thick weather or in the
night.) I came to a determination to haul off to the
N. W. by the wind at 10 P. M. as I should then be
by the log only thirty miles north of Cape Bagador.
I concluded on this at nine, and thought my fears
had never before so much prevailed over my judg-
VOYAGE IN THE COMiMEReE. 15
ment and my reckoning. I ordered the light sails to
be handed, and the steering sail booms to be rigged
in snug, which was done as fast as it could be by
one watch, under the immediate direction of Mr,
Savage.
We had just got the men stationed at the braces
for hauling oif, as the man at helm cried "ten
o'clock." Our try-sail boom was on the starboard
side, but ready for jibing ; the helm was put to port,
dreaming of no danger near. I had been on deck
all the evening myself: the vessel was running at
the rate of nine or ten knots, with a very strong
breeze, and high sea, when the main boom was jibed
over, and I at that instant heard a roaring; the yards
were braced up — all hands were called. I imagined
at first it was a squall, and was near ordering the
sails to be lowered down ; but I then discovered
breakers foamino; at a most dreadful rate under our
lee. Hope for a moment flattered me that we could
fetch oif still, as there were no breakers in view
ahead : the anchors were made ready ; but these
hopes vanished in an instant, as the vessel was car-
ried by a current and a sea directly towards the
breakers, and she struck ! We let go the best bower
anchor; all sails were taken in as fast as possible;
surge after surge came thundering on, and drove
her in spite of anchors, partly with her head on
shore. She struck with such violence as to start
every man from the deck. Knowing there was no
possibility of saving her, and that she must very
soon bilge and fill with water, I ordered all the pro-
visions we could get at to be brought on deck, in
16 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
hopes of saving some, and as much water to be
drawn from the large casks as possible. We start-
ed several quarter casks of wine, and filled them
with water. Every man worked as if his life de-
pended upon his present exertions; — all were obe-
dient to every order I gave, and seemed perfectly
calm; — The vessel was stout and high, as she was
only in ballast trim; — The sea combed over her
stern and swept her decks ; but we managed to get
the small boat in on deck, to sling her and keep her
from staving. We cut away the bulwark on the
larboard side so as to prevent the boats from staving
when we should get them out; cleared away the
long-boat and hung her in tackles, the vessel conti-
nuing to strike very heavy, and filling fast. We,
however, had secured five or six barrels of water,^
and as many of wine, — three barrels of bread, and
three or four of salted provisions. I had as yet been
so busily employed, that no pains had been taken
to ascertain what distance we were from the land,
nor had any of us yet seen it; and in the meantime
all the clothing, chests, trunks, &c. were got up, and
the books, charts, and sea instruments, were stowed
in them, in the hope of their being useful to us in
future.
The vessel being now nearly full of water, the surf
making a fair breach over her, and fearing she would
go to pieces, I prepared a rope, and put it in the small
boat, having got a glimpse of the shore, at no great
distance, and taking Porter Avith me, we were low-
ered down on the larboard or lee side of the vessel,
where she broke the violence of the sea, and made it
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 17
comparatively smooth ; we shoved off, but on clear-
ing away from the bow of the vessel, the boat was
overwhelmed with a surf, and we were plunged into
the foaming surges : we were driven along by the
current, aided by what seamen call the undertow, (or
recoil of the sea) to the distance of three hundred
yards to the westward, covered nearly all the time
by the billows, which, following each other in quick
succession, scarcely gave us time to catch a breath be-
fore we were again literally swallowed by them, till at
length we were thrown, together with our boat, up-
on a sandy beach. After taking breath a little, and
ridding our stomachs of the salt water that had forced
its way into them, my first care was to turn the
water out of the boat, and haul her up out of the
reach of the surf. We found the rope that was
made fast to her still remaining; this we carried up
along the beach, directly to leeward of the wreck,
where we fastened it to sticks about the thickness of
handspikes, that had drifted on the shi^re from the
vessel, and which we drove into the sand by the
help of other pieces of wood. Before leaving the
vessel, I haA^ directed that all the chests, trunks,
and every thing that would float, should be hove
overboard : this all hands were busied in doing. Th^
vessel layabout one hundred fathoms from the beach,
at high tide. In order to save the crew, a hawser was
made. fast to the rope we had on shore, one end of
which we hauled to us, and made it fast to a num-
ber of sticks we had driven into the sand for the
purpose. It was then tautened on board the
wreck, and made fast. This being done, the long-
18 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
boat (in order to save the provisions already in her)
was lowered down, and two hands steadied her by
ropes fastened to the rings in her stem and stern posts
over the hawser, so as to slide, keeping her bow to the
surf. In this manner they reached the beach, carried
on the top of a heavy wave. The boat was stove
by the violence of the shock against the beach; but
by great exertions we saved the three barrels of
bread in her before they were much damaged ; and
two barrels of salted provision were also saved. We
were now, four of us, on shore, and busied in picking
up the clothing and other things which drifted from
the vessel, and carrying them up out of the surf. It
was by this time daylight, and high water; the vessel
careened deep off shore, and I made signs to have the
masts cut away, in the hope of easing her, that she
might not go to pieces. They were accordingly cut
away, and fell on her starboard side, making a better
lee for a boat alongside the wreck, as they projected
considerably beyond her bows. The masts and rigging
being gone, the sea breaking very high over the
wreck, and nothing left to hold on by, the mates and
six men still on board, though secuicd, as well as
they could be, on the bowsprit and in the larboard
fore-channels, were yet in imminent danger of being
w^ashed off by every surge. The long-boat was stove,
and it being impossible for the small one to live, my
great object was now to save the lives of the crew
by means of the hawser. I therefore made signs
to them to come, one by one, on the hawser, which
bad been stretched taut for that purpose. John
Hogan ventured first, and having pulled off his jack-
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 19
ei, took to the hawser, and made for the shore.
When he {lad got clear of the Immediate lee of the
wreck, every surf buried him, combing many feet
above his head; but he still held fast by the rope with
a deathlike grasp, and as soon as the surf was passed,
proceeded on towards the shore, until another surf,
more powerful than the former, unclenched his hands,
and threw him within our reach ; when we laid hold
of him, and dragged him to the beach; we then rolled
him on the sand, until he discharged the salt water
from his stomach, and revived. I kept in the water
up to my chin, steadying myself by the hawser, while
the surf passed over me, to catch the others as they
approached, and thus, with the assistance of those al-
ready on shore, was enabled to save all the rest from
a watery grave.
CHAP. IV.
Description of the natives. — They make war upon the
crew, and drive them off to the wreck.
All hands being now landed, our first care was to
aecure the provisions and water which we had so
far saved, knowing it was a barren, thirsty land ; and
we carried the provisions up fifty yards from the wa-
ters' edge, where we placed them, and then formed a
kind of a tent by means of our oars and two steering
sails. I had fondly hoped we should not be discover-
ed by any human beings on this inhospitable shore,
but that we should be able to repair our boats, with
20 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
the materials we might get from the wreck,and by
taking advantage of a smooth time, (if we should be
favoured with one) put to sea, where by the help of
a compass and other instruments which we had sav-
ed, we might possibly find some friendly vessel to
save our lives, or reach some of the European settle-
ments down the coast, or the Cape de Verd Islands.
Being thus employed, we saw a human figure ap-
proach our stuff, such as clothing, which lay scatter-
ed along the beach for a mile westward of us. It
was a man ! He began plundering our clothing. I
went towards him with all the signs of peace and
friendship I could make, but he was extremely shy,
and made signs to me to keep my distance, while he
all the time seemed intent on plunder. He was un-
armed, and I continued to approach him until within
ten yards.
He appeared to be about five feet seven or eight
inches high, and of a complexion between that of
an American Indian and negro. He had about him,
to cover his nakedness, a piece of coarse woollen
cloth, that reached from below his breast nearly to
his knees ; his hair was long and bushy, resembling
a pitch mop, sticking out every way six or eight inch-
es from his head ; his face resembled that of an ou-
rang-outang more than a human being ; his eyes
were red and fiery; his mouth, which stretched near-
Iv from ear to ear, was well lined with sound teeth ;
and a long curling beard, which depended from his
upper lip and chin down upon his breast, gave him
altogether a most horrid appearance, and I could
not but imagine that those well set teeth were sharp*-
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 21
ened for the purpose of devouring human flesh ! !
particularly as I conceived I had before seen in dif-
ferent parts of the world, the human face and form
in its most hideous and terrific shape. He appeared
to be very old, yet fierce and vigorous ; he was soon
joined by two old women of similar appearance,
whom I took to be his wives. These looked a little
less frightful, though their two eye-teeth stuck out
like hogs' tusks, and their tanned skins hung in loose
plaits on their faces and breasts; but their hair was
long and braided. A girl of from eighteen to twen-
ty, who was not ugly, and five or six children, of dif-
ferent ages and sexes, from six to sixteen years, were
also in company. These were entirely naked. They
brought with them a good English hammer, w^ith a
rope-laniard through a hole in its handle. It had no
doubt belonged to some vessel wrecked on that coast.
They had also a kind of axe with them, and some
long knives slung on their right sides, in a sheath
suspended by their necks. They now felt them-
selves strong, and commenced a bold and indiscrimi-
nate plundering of every thing they wanted. They
broke open trunks,chests,and boxes,and emptied them
of their contents, carrying the clothing on their backs
up on the sand hills, where they spread them out to
dry. They emptied the beds of their contents, want-
ing only the cloth, and were much amused with the
flying of the feathers before the wind from my bed.
It appeared as though they had never before seen
such things.
I had an adventure of silk laced veils and silk
handkerchiefs, the former of which the man, women,
22 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
and children tied roiin.d their heads in the form of
turbans ; the latter round their legs and arms, though
only for a short time, when they took them oif again,
and stowed them away among the other clothing on
the sand hills. They all seemed highly delighted with
their good fortune, and even the old man's features
began to relax a little, as he met with no resistcince.
We had no fire or side arms, but we could easily
have driven these creatures off with handspikes, had
I not considered that we had no possible means of
escaping either by land or water, and had no reason
to doubt but they would call others to their assist-
ance, and in revenge destroy us. I used all the ar-
guments in my power to induce my men to endea-
vour to conciliate the friendship of these natives, but
it was with the greatest difficulty I could restrain
some of them from rushing on the savages and put-
ting them to death, if they could have come up with
them ; but I found they could run like the wind,
whilst we could with difficulty move in the deep sand.
Such an act I conceived would cost us our lives as
soon as we should be overpowered by numbers,
and I therefore permitted them to take what pleased
them best, without making any resistance; except our
bread and provisions, which, as we could not subsist
Avithout them, I was determined to defend to the last
extremity. On our first reaching the shore I allowed
my mates and people to share among themselves
one thousand Spanish dollars, for I had hauled my
trunk on shore by a rope, with my money in it, which
I was induced to do in the hope of its being useful to
them in procuring a release from this country incase*
VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 23
we should be separated, and in aiding them to reach
their homes. We had rolled up the casks of water
and wine which had been thrown overboard and
drifted ashore. I was now determined to mend the
long-boat, as soon and as well as possible, in order
to have a retreat in my power, (or at least the hope
of one) in case of the last necessity. The wind lulled
a little in the afternoon, at low water, when William
Porter succeeded in reaching the wreck and procu-
red a few nails and a marline spike ; with these he
got safe back to the shore. I found the timbers of the
boat in so crazy a state, and the nails which held
them together, so eaten ofTby the rust, that she would
not hold together, nor support her weight in turn-
ing her up in order to get at her bottom. I tacked
her timbers together, however, as well as I could,
which was very imperfectly, as I had bad tools to
work with, and my crew, now unrestrained by my
authority, having broached a cask of wine, and ta-
ken copious drafts of it, in order to dispel their sor-
rows, were most of them in such a state, that instead
of assisting me, they tended to increase my embarrass-
ment. We, however, at last, got the boat turned
up, and found that one whole plank was out on each
side, and very much split. I tacked the pieces in,
assisted by Mr. Savage, Horace, and one or two more.
We chinced a little oakum into the seams and splits
with our knives, as well as we could, and worked
upon her until it was quite dark. I had kept sentinels
walking with handspikes, to guard the tent and
provisions during this time, but the Arabs had man-
aged to rob us of one of our sails from the tent, and
2^4 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
to carry it off, and not content with this, they tried to
get the other in the same way. This I would not
permit them to do. They then showed their hatchets
and their arms, but finding it of no effect, they retired
for the night, after promising, as near as I could
understand them, that they would not molest us fur-
ther till morning, when they would bring camels
down with them. We had previously seen a great
many camel tracks in the sand, and I of course be«
lieved there were some near. One of the children
had furnished us with fire, which enabled us to roast
a fowl that had been drowned, and driven on shore
from the wreck, on which, with some salt pork,and a
little bread and butter, we made a hearty meal, little
thinking that this was to be the last of our provisions
we should be permitted to enjoy. A watch was set of
two men, who were to walk guard at a distance from
the tent? to give an alarm in case of the approach of
the natives, and keep burning a guard fire. This
we were enabled to do by cutting up some spars we
found on the beach, and which must have belonged
to some vessel wrecked there before us.
Night had now spread her sable mantle over the
face of nature, the savages had retired, and all was
s till, except the restless and unwearied waves, which
dashed against the deserted wreck, and tumbled
among the broken rocks a little to the eastward of
us, where the high perpendicular cliffs, jutting out
into the sea, opposed a barrier to their violence, and
threatened, at the same time, inevitable and certain
destruction to every ill fated vessel and her crew
thcit should, unfortunately, approach too near their
WRECK OP THE COMMERCE. 5^
immoveable foundations : these we had escaped only
by a few rods. From the time th6 vessel struck to
this moment, I had been so entirely engaged by the
laborious exertions which our critical situation de-
manded, that I had no time for reflection ; but it now
rushed like a torrent over my mind, and banished from
my eyes that sleep which my fatigued frame so much
required. I knew I was on a barren and inhospita-
ble coast; a tempestuous ocean lay before me, whose
bosom was continually tossed and agitated by wild
and furious winds, blowing directly on shore ; no
vessel or boat sufficient for our escape, as I thought
it impossible for our shattered long-b6at to live at
sea, even if we should succeed in urging her through
the tremendous surges that broke upon the shore,
with such violence, as to make the whole coast trem-
ble; behind us were savage beings, bearing the
human form indeed, but in its most terrific appear-
ance, whose object I knew, from what had already
passed, would be to rob us of our last resource, our
provisions ; and I did not doubt, but they would be
sufficiently strong in the morning, not only to accom-
plish what they meditated, but to take our lives also,
or to seize upon our persons, and doom us to slavery,
till death should rid us of our miseries.
This was the first time I had ever suflfered ship-
wreck. I had left a wife and five young children
behind me, on whom I doated, and who depended
on me entirely for their subsistence. My children
would have no father's, and perhaps no mother's
care, to direct them in the paths of virtue, to instruct
their ripening years, or to watch over them, and
26 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
administer the balm of comfort in time of sickness,
no generous friend to relieve their distresses, and
save them from indigence, degradation, and ruin.
These reflections harrowed up mj soul, nor could I
cease to shudder at these imaginary evils, added to
my real ones, until I vt^as forced mentally to exclaim,
" Thy vi^ays, great Father of the universe, are wise
and just, and what am I ! an atom of dust, that dares
to murmur at thy dispensations."
I next considered, that eleven of my fellow- suf-
ferers, who had entrusted themselves to my care,
were still alive and with me, and all but two of them
(who were on the watch) lying on the ground, and
wrapped in the most profound and apparently pleas-
ing sleep; and as I surveyed them with tears of
compassion, l felt it was a sacred duty assigned me
by Providence, to protect and preserve their lives to
my very utmost. The night passed slowly and te-
diously away; when daylight at length began to
dawn in the eastern horizon, and chased darkness
before it, not to usher to our view the cheering pros-
pect of approaching relief, but to unfold new scenes
of suffering, wretchedness, and distress. So soon
as it was fairly light, tJie old man came down, ac-
companied by his wives and two young men q^ the
same family — he was armed with a spear of iron,
having a handle made with two pieces of wood
spliced together, and tied with cords: the handle
was about twelve feet long. This he held balanced
in his right hand, above his head, making motions
as if to throw it at us; he ordered us off to the
wreck, pointing, at the same time, to a large drove
WRECK OF THE COMMERCE. 27
of camels that were descending the heights to the
eastward of us, his women running off at the same
time, whooping and yelling horribly, throwing up
sand in the air, and beckoning to those who had
charge of the camels to approach. I ran towards
the beach, and seized a small spar that lay there, to
parry olf the old man's lance, as a handspike was
not long enough. He in the meantime came to the
tent like a fury, where the people still were, and by
slightly pricking one or two of them, and pointing
at the same time towards the camels, he succeeded
in frightening them, which was his object, as he did
not wish to call help, lest he should be obliged to
divide the spoil. The crew all made the best of
their way to the small boat, while I parried off his
spear with my spar, and kept him at a distance. He
would doubtless have burled it at me, but for the
fear of losinof it.
The small boat was dragged to the water,
alongside our hawser, but the people huddling into
her in a confused manner, she was filled by the first
sea, and bilged. I now thought we had no resource,
except trying to get eastward or westward. Aban-
doning, therefore, our boats, provisions, &;c. we tried
to retreat eastward, but were opposed by this for-
midable spear, and could not make much progress ;
for the old man was very active. He would fly
from us like the wind, and return with the same
speed. The camels were approaching very fast,
and he made signs to inform us, that the people who
were with them had fire arms, and would put us
instantly to death; at the same time opposing us
28 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE,
every way vrith his young men, with all their wea-
pons, Insisting on our going towards the wreck, and
refusing to receive our submission, while the women
and children still kept up their yelling. We then
laid hold of the long-boat, turned her over, and got
her into the water; and as I would suffer only one
at a time to get on board, and that too over her
stern, we succeeded at length, and all got off safe
alongside the wreck, which made a tolerable lee for
the boat, though she was by this time half filled with
water.
' All hands got on board the wreck except myself
and another, we kept bailing the boat, and were
able to keep her from entirely filhng, having one
bucket and a keg to work with. The moment we were
out of the way, all the family ran together where
our tent was ; here they were joined by the camels
and two young men, which we had not before seen,
apparently about the ages of twenty and twenty-six.
They were armed with scimitars, and came running
on foot from the eastward. The old man and
women ran to meet them, hallooing to us, brandishing
their naked weapons and bidding us defiance. They
loaded the barrels of bread on their camels, which
kneeled down to receive them ; the beef and all the
other provisions, with the sail that the tent was made
of, &c. &c. and sent them off with the children who
drove them down. The old man next came to the
beach ; with his axe stove in all the heads of our wa-
ter casks and casks of wines, emptying their contents
into the sand. They then gathered up all the trunks,
chests, sea i^nstruments, books and charts, and con-
WRECK OF THE COMMERCE. 29
sumed them by fire in one pile. Our provisions and wa-
ter being gone, we saw no other alternative but to try
to get to sea in our leaky boat, or stay and be washed
oil the wreck the next night, or to perish by the hands
of these barbarians, who we expected would appear
in great force, and bring fire arms with them, and
they would besides soon be enabled to walk to the
wreck on a sand bar that was fast forming inside of
the vessel, and now nearly dry at low water. The
tide seemed to ebb and flow about twelve feet.
We had now made all the preparations in our power
for our departure, which amounted to nothing more
than getting from the wreck a few bottles of wine
and a few pieces of salt pork. No water could be
procured, and the bread was completely spoiled
by being soaked in salt water. Our oars were all
lost except two that were on shore in the power of
the natives. We had split a couple of plank for
oars, and attempted to shove off, but a surf striking the
boat, came over her bow, and nearly filling her with
water, drifted her again alongside the wreck. We
now made shift to get on board the wreck again, and
bail out the boat; which when done, two hands were
able to keep her free, while two others held her
steady by ropes, so as to prevent her from dashing
to pieces against the wreck.
30 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
CHAP. V.
The natives seize the author by perfidy^ and then get
possession of the money — the author^s critical situa-
tion on shore — He escapes to the wreck — Atitonio
Michel is massacred.
The sight of our deplorable situation seemed to
excite pity in the breasts of the savages who had
driven us from the shore. They came down to the
water's edge, bowed themselves to the ground, beck-
oning us, and particularly me, whom they knew to be
the captain, to come on shore ; making at the same
time all the signs of peace and friendship they
could. They carried all their arms up over
the sand hills, and returned without them. Find-
ing I would not come on shore, one of them
ran and fetched a small goat or dog skin, which,
by signs, they made me understand was filled
with water, and all retiring to a considerable dis-
tance from the beach, except the old man who had
it : he came into the water with it up to his arm-
pits, beckoning me to come and fetch it and drink.
He was nearly naked, and had no weapons about
him. Being very thirsty, and finding we could not
get at any water, and no hope remaining of our being
able to get out through the surf to sea, I let myself
down by the hawser, and went by means of it to the
beach, where the old man met me and gave me the
skin of water, which I carried oif to the wreck, and
the people hauled it up on board. This done, he
WRECK OP THE COMMERCE. 31
made me understand that he wished to go on boards
and me to remain on the beach until his return.
Seeing no possible chance of escaping or of pre-
serving our lives in any other way but by their as-
sistance, and that that was only to be obtained by
conciliating them — telling my men my mind, I went
again to the shore. The young men, women, and
children, were now seated unarmed on the beach,
near the water — the grown people nearly, and the
children entirely naked. They made all the signs
of peace they knew of, looking upwards, as if invo-
king heaven to witness their sincerity. The old
man advancing, took me by the hand, and looking
up to heaven, said, " Jlllah K. Beer.'''' I knew that
Allah was the Arabic name for the Supreme Being,
and supposed K. Beer meant, " our friend or
father." I let him pass to the wreck, and went and
seated myself on the beach with the others, who
seemed very friendly, lacing their fingers in with
mine, putting my hat on one another's heads, and
returning it to me again, stroking down my trowsers,
feeling my head and hands, examining my shoes, and
feeling into my pockets, &;c.
When the people had hauled the old man on
board, I endeavoured to make them. understand that
they must keep him until I was released, but they
did not comprehend my meaning, owing to the noise
of the surf, and after he had satisfied his curiosity
by looking attentively at every thing he could see,
which was nothing more than the wreck of the con-
tents of the hold floating in her, inquiring for baftas,
for fire-arms, and for money, as I afterwards learnt,
' 32 CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
and finding none, he came on shore. When he was
near the beach, and I about to rise to meet him, I
was seized by both arms by the two stoutest of the
young men, who had placed themselves on each side
of me, for the purpose of safe-keeping. They
grasped my arms like lions, and at that instant the
women and children presented their daggers, knives
and spears to my head and breast. To strive
against them was instant death; I was therefore
obliged to remain quiet, and determined to show
no concern for my life, or any signs of fear. The
countenance of every one around me now assumed
the most horrid and malignant expressions; they
gnashed their teeth at me, and struck their daggers
within an inch of every part of my head and body.
The young men still held me fast, while the old one
seizing a sharp scimitar, laid hold of my hair at the
same instant, as if to cut my throat, or my head off.
I concluded my last moments had come, and that my
body was doomed to be devoured by these beings,
whom I now considered to be none other than Can-
nibals that would soon glut their hungry stomachs
with my flesh. I could only say, " Thy will be
done," mentally, and felt resigned to my fate, for I
thought it could not be prevented. But this con-
duct on their part, it soon appeared, was only for
the purpose of frightening me, and as I had not
chan2;ed countenance, the old man, after drawing his
scimitar lightly across the collar of my shirt, which
he cut a little, released my head, bidding me by
sisrns to order all the money we had on board to be
brought directly on shore.
WRECK OP THE COMMERCE. 33
Mj mates and people then pn the wreck, had wit-
nessed this scene, and had agreed, as they after-
wards informed me, that if I was massacred, which
they did not doubt from appearances would soon be
the case, to rush on shore in the boat, armed in the
best manner they were able, and revenge my death
by selling their lives as dearly as possible.
When the old man had quit his hold, and I hailed
my people, their hopes began to revive, and one of
them came on the hawser to know what they should
do. I told him all the money which they had on
board must be instantly brought on shore. He was
in the water at some distance from me, and could
not hear, on account of the noise occasioned by the
surf, what I added, which was for them not to part
with the money until I should be fairly released.
He went on board, and all hands hoping to procure
my release, put their money which they still had
about them, to the amount of about one thousand
dollars, into a bucket, and slinging it on a hawser.
Porter shoved it along before him near the beach,
and was about to bring it up to the place where I
sat. With considerable difficulty, however, I pre-
vented him, as the surf made such a roaring, that he
could not hear me, though he was only a few yards
distant; but he at last understood my signs, and
staid in the water until one of the young men went
and received it from him. The old man had taken
his seat alongside of me, and held his scimitar point-
ed at my breast.
The bucket of dollars was brought and poured into
one end of the old man's blanket, when he bid me rise
p
34 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative,
and go along with them, he and the young men urging
me along by both arms, with their daggers drawn
before, and the women and children behind with the
spear, and their knives near my back. In this man-
ner they made me go with them over the sand drifts
to the distance of three or four hundred yards,
where they seated themselves and me on the ground.
The old man then proceeded to count and divide the
money. He made three heaps of it, counting into
each heap by tens, and so dividing it exactly, gave
to the two young men one-third or heap — to his two
wives one-third, and kept the other to himself Each
secured his and their own part, by wrapping and
tying it up in some of our clothing. During this
process, they had let go of my arms, though they
were all around me. I thought my fate was now
decided, if I could not by some means effect my es-
cape. I knew they could outrun me, if I should leap
from them, and would undoubtedly plunge their
weapons to my heart if I attempted, and failed in
the attempt. However I resolved to risk it, and
made a slight movement with that view at a moment
when I thought all eyes were turned from me ; but
one of the young men perceiving my mana?uvre,
made a lounge at me with his scimitar. I eluded
the force of his blow, by falling backwards on the
ground ; it however pierced mj waistcoat. He was
about to repeat it, when the old man bade him desist.
The money being now distributed and tied up,
they made me rise with them, and were all going to-
gether from the beach, holding me by the arms with
naked dao;gers all around me. There appeared now
WRECK OF THE COMMERCE. 35
no possible means of escape, when the thought sud-
denly suggested to me, to tempt their avarice. I
then, by signs, made them understand that there was
more money in the possession of the crew. This
seemed to please them, and they instantly turned
themselves and me about for the beach, sending the
money off by one of the young men and a boy.
When they approached to within one hundred yards
of the beach, they made me seat myself on the sand
between two of them, who held me by the arms,
bidding me order the money on shore. I knew there
was none on board the wreck, or in the boat, but I
imagined if I could get Antonio Michel on shore, I
should be able to make my escape. I hailed accord-
ingly, and made signs to my people to have one ol
them come near th^ shore ; but as they saw, by every
movement of the natives, that my situation was
dreadfully critical, none of them were inclined to
venture, and I waited more than an hour, was often
threatened with death, and made to halloo with all
my might, until I became so hoarse as scarcely to
make myself heard by those around me. The pity
of Mr. Savage at last overcame his fears. He ven-
tured on the hawser, and reaching the beach in
safety, was about to come up to me, where he would
have been certainly seized on as I was, when I en-
deavoured to make him understand, by signs, that he
must stay in the water, and keep clear of the na-
tives, if he valued his life; but not being" able to hear
me, my guards, who supposed I was giving him or-
ders to fetch the money, obliged me to get up and
approach him a little, until I made him understand
36 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
what I wanted: he then returned on hoard the
wreck, and I was taken back to my former station.
Antonio came to the shore, as soon as he knew it
■ytras my wish, and made directly towards me. The
natives expecting he would bring more money, flock-
ed about him to receive it, but finding he had none,
struck him with their fists and the handles of their
daggers, and stripped oiT all his clothing : the chil-
dren at the same time pricking him with their sharp
knives, and all seemed determined to torment him
with a slow and cruel death. He besfffed for his
life upon his knees, but they paid no regard to his
entreaties. In hopes of saving him from the fury of
these wretches, I told him to let them know by signs
that there were dollars and other things buried in
the sand, near where our tent had stood, and to
endeavour to find them by digging. A new spy-
glass, a handsaw, and several other things, had been
buried there, and a bag containing about four hun-
dred dollars at a short distance from them. He
soon made them understand that somethins: was
buried, and they hurried him to the spot he had
pointed out, and he began to dig. I had imagined
that if this man would come on shore, I should be
enabled to make my escape ; yet I knew not how,
nor had I formed any plan for effecting it..
I was seated on the sand, facing the sea, between
the old man on my left, with his spear uplifted in his
left hand, pointing to my breast, and the stoutest
young man on my right, with a naked scimitar in his
right hand, pointing to my head — both weapons were
within six inches of me, and my guards within a foot
^
s
I
1
^
^
I
I
1
WRECK OF THE COMMERCE. ^7
on each side. I considered at this time, that so soon
as any thing should be found by those who were dig-
ging, they would naturally speak and inform those
who guarded me of it ; (these had let go of my arms
sometime before) and as I was pretty certain that
both of them would look round as soon as the dis-
covery of any treasure should be announced, I care-
fully drew up my legs under me, but without exciting
suspicion, in order to be ready for a start. The
place where they were digging, was partly behind
us on our right, and upon their making a noise,
both my guards turned their heads and eyes from
me towards them, when I instantly sprang out from
beneath their weapons, and flew to the beach. I
was running for my life, and soon reached the water's
edge : knowing I was pursued, and nearly overtaken,
I plunged into the sea, with all my force, head fore-
most, and swam under water as long as I could hold
ray breath; then rising to the surface, I looked
round on my pursuers. The old man was within
ten feet of me, up to his chin in water, and was in
the act of darting his spear through my body, when
a surf rolling over me, saved my life, and dashed
him and his comrades on the beach. I was some
distance westward of the wreck, but swimming as
fast as possible towards her, whilst surf after surf
broke in towering heights over me, until I was ena-
bled by almost superhuman exertion to reach the lee
of the wreck, when I was taken into the boat over
the stern by the mates and people.
I was so far exhausted that I could not immedi-
ately witness what passed on shore, but was inform-
38 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
ed by those who did, that my pursuers stood motion-
less on the beach, at the edge of the water, until I
was safe in the boat : that they then ran towards
poor Antonio, and plunging a spear into his body
near his left breast downwards, laid him dead at
their feet. They . then picked up what things re-
mained, and made off altogether. I saw them drag-
mnv Antonio's lifeless trunk across the sand hills,
and felt an inexpressible pang, that bereft me for a
moment of all sensation, occasioned by a suggestion
that to me alone his massacre was imputable; but
on my recovery, when I reflected there were no
other means whereby my own life could have been
preserved, and under Providence, tlie lives of ten
men, who had been committed to my charge, I con-
cluded I had not done wrong, nor have I since had
occasion to reproach myself for being the innocent
cause of his destruction, nor did any of my surviving
shipmates, though perfectly at hberty so to do, ever
accuse me on this point; from which I think I have
an undoubted right to infer, that their feelings per-
fectly coincided with mine on this melancholy oc-
casion.
Hostilities had now commenced, and we could not
doubt but these merciless ruffians would soon return
in force, and when able to overpower us, would
massacre us all as they had already done Antonio.
The wind blowing strong, and the surf breaking
outside and on the wreck twenty or thirty feet high,
the hope of getting to sea in our crazy long-boat was
indeed but faint. She had been thumping alongside
the wreck, and on a sand bank all day, and
WRECK OF THE COMMERCE. 39
writhed like an old basket, taking in as much water
as two men constantly employed with buckets could
throw out. The deck and outside of the wreck
were fast going to pieces, and the other parts could
not hold together long. The tide, (by being low)
together with the sand bar that had been fornied by
the washins: of the sea from the bow of the wreck
to the beach, had very much lessened the danger of
communicating with the shore during this day ; but
it was now returning to sweep every thing from the
wreck, aided by the wind, which blew a gale on
shore every night. To remain on the wreck, or go
on shore, was almost certain death ; the boat could no
longer be kept afloat alongside, and being without
provisions or water, if we should put to sea, we
must soon perish. We had neither oars nor a rud-
der to the boat; no compass nor a quadrant to di-
rect her course; but as it was our only chance. Ire-
solved to try and get to sea; expecting, neverthe-
less, we should be swallowed up by the first surf,
and launched into eternity all together.
I, in the first place, sent Porter on shore to get the
two broken oars that were still lying there, while I
made my way through the water, into the hold of the
wreck, to try once more if any fresh water could be
found. I dove in at the hatchway, which was cov-
ered with water, and found, after coming up under
the deck on the larboard side, as I expected, just
room enough to breathe, and to work among the
floating casks, planks, and wreck of the hold. Af-
ter much labour I found a water cask, partly full, and
turning it over, discovered that its bung was tight.
This gave me new courage, and after upheading it.
40. CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
I carae up and communicated the circumstance to
my shipmates, and we then made search for some
smaller vessel to fill from the cask. After much trou-
ble, a small keg was found in the after hold ; it might
probablv hold four gallons — the head of the water-
cask was stove in, and with the help of Mr. Savage
and Clark I got the keg full of water, and a good
drink for all hands besides, which was very much
needed. The others were in the meantime employ-
ed in rigging out spars which we had lashed together
over the stern of the wreck with a rope made fast to
their outer ends, in order to give the boat head-
way, and clear her from the wreck, when we should
finally shove off. Porter had returned with the
oars, and also brought the bag of money that had
been buried, containing about four hundred dollars :
this he did of his own accord.
We had got the small boat's sails, consisting of a
jib and mainsail, into the boat, with a spar that
would do for a mast, and the brig's fore-topmast
staysail ; the keg of water, a few pieces of salt pork,
a live pig, weighing about twenty pounds, which
had escaped to the shore when the vessel struck,
and which had swam back to us again when we
were driven from the shore ; about four pounds of
figs, that had been soaking in salt water ever since
the brijr was wrecked, and had been fished out of
her cabin : this was all our stock of provisions.
Every thing being now ready, I endeavoured to
encourage the crew as well as I could ; representing
to them that it was better to be swallowed up all
together, than to suffer ourselves to be massacred
SUFFERINGS IN THE BOAT. 41
bj the ferocious savages ; adding, that the Almighty
was able to save, even when the last ray of hope
was vanishing ; we should never despair, but exert
ourselves to the last extremity, and still hope for his
merciful protection.
As we surveyed the dangers that surrounded us,
wave following wave, breaking with a dreadful crash
just outside of us, at every instant, our hearts indeed
failed us, and there appeared no possibility of getting
safely beyond the breakers, without a particular in-
terference of Providence in our favour. The parti-
cular interference of Providence in any case I had
always before doubted. Every one trembled with
dreadful apprehensions, and each imagined that the
moment we ventured past the vessel's stern, would
be his last. I then said, " let us pull off our hats,
my shipmates and companions in distress." This
was done in an instant ; when lifting my eyes and my
soul towards heaven, I exclaimed, " great Creator
and preserver of the universe, who now seest our
distresses; we pray thee to spare our lives, and per-
mit us to pass through this overwhelming surf to
the open sea; but if we are doomed to perish, thy
will be done ; we commit our souls to the mercy of
thee our God, who gave them: and O! universal
Father, protect and preserve our widows andrchil-
dren."
The wind, as if by divine command, at this very
moment ceased to blow. We hauled the boat out;
the dreadful surges that were nearly bursting upon us,
suddenly subsided, making a path for our boat about
twenty yards wide, through which we rowed -heg
G
-42 CAPTAIN RILEl S NARRATIVE.
out as smoothly as if she had been on a river in a
calm, whilst on each side of us, and not more
than ten yards distant, the surf continued to
break twenty feet high, and with unabated fury.
We had to row nearly a mile in this manner; all
were fully convinced that we were saved by the
immediate interposition of divine Providence in this
particular instance, and all joined in returning thanks
to the Supreme Being for this mercy. As soon as we
reached the open sea, and had gained some distance
from the wreck, the surf returned combing behind •
us with the same force as on each side the boat.
We next fitted the mast, and set the small boat's
mainsail. The wind now veered four points to the
eastward, so that we were enabled to fetch past the
point of the Cape; though the boat had neither
keel nor rudder, it was sunset when we got out, and
night coming on, the wind as usual increased to a
gale before morning, and we kept the boat to the
wind by the help of an oar, expecting every moment
to be swallowed up by the waves. We were
eleven in number on board ; two constantly bailing
were scarcely able to keep her free, changing hands
every half hour. The night was very dark and
foggy, and we could not be sure of fetching clear of
the land, having nothing to guide us but the wind. In
the morning we sailed back again for the land, and
had approached it almost within reach of the
breakers without seeing it, when we put about
again. It had been my intention after we had got to
Sipa, to run down the coast in the hope of finding
SLFFEIIINGS IN THE BOAT. 4o
some vessel, or to discover the mouth of some river,
in order to obtain a supply of water. But now the
dan2:ers and ditHculties we should have to encounter
in doing this were taken into consideration. If we
tried to navigate along the coast, it was necessary to
know our course, or we should be in imminent dan-
ger of being dashed to pieces on it* every dark
day, and every night. The thick foggy weather
would prevent our seeing the land in the day time ;
whilst the wind, blowing almost directly on the land,
would force us towards it, and endanger the safety
of both the boat and our lives at every turn or
point. We had no compass to guide us either by
day or night ; no instrument by which to find our
latitude ; no rudder to steer our crazy boat with,
nor were we in possession of materials wherewith it
was possible to make one ; the boat had no keel to
steady her, nor was there a steering place in her
stern, where an oar could be fixed by any other means
than by lashing to the stern ring, which afforded a
very unsteady hold. On the one hand, we reflected
that if we escaped the danger of being driven on
shore or foundering at sea, and should succeed in
reaching the cultivated country south of the desart,
we should have to encounter the ferocious inhabitants,
who would not fail, in the hope of plunder, to mas-
sacre, or doom us to slavery, a slow but painful
death. On the other hand, we reflected that we had
escaped from savages who had already killed one of
our shipmates, had gained the open sea through divine
mercy, and could stand off to the westward without
44 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
fear of being driven on shore. In this direction we
might meet with some friendly vessel to save us,
which was our only hope in that way, andthe worst
that could happen to us was to sink all together in the
sea, or gradually perish through want of sustenance.
Having considered, and represented to my com-
panions the dangers that beset us on every side, I
asked their opinions one by one, and found they were
unanimously in favour of committing themselves to the
open sea in preference to keeping along the coast.
The dangers appeared to be fewer, and all agreed
that it was better to perish on the ocean, if it was
God's will, than by the hands of the natives. There
being a strong breeze, we stood off by the wind
and rigged our jib. We now agreed to put our-
selves upon allowance of one bottle of water and
half a bottle of wine among eleven of us, and a
scrap of pork and two soaked and salted figs for each
man. During this day, which was the 30th August,
1815, we fitted waist cloths to go round above the
gunwale of the boat, to prevent the sea from dashing
over; they were from eight to ten inches broad,
made from the brig's fore-staysail, and were kept
up by small pieces of a board which we formed in
the boat, so that they helped in some measure to
keep off the spray. It had been cloudy all day, and
the boat leaked faster than she had done before.
As niofht came on the wind blew hard and raised the
sea very high, but the boat was kept near the wind
by her sails, and drifted broadside before it, smoothing
the sea to the windward, and did not ship a great deal
SUFFERINGS IN THE BOAT. 45
of water. On the 31st it became more moderate, but
the weather was very thick and hazy. Our pig
being nearly dead for the want, of water, we killed
it, taking care however to save his blood ; which we
divided amongst us and drank, our thirst having be-
came almost insupportable. We also divided the
pig's liver, intestines, &c. between us, and ate some of
them, (as they were fresh) to satisfy, in some degree,
our thirst. Thus this day passed away; no vessel
was yet seen to relieve us; we had determined to save
our urine for drink, which we accordingly did in
6on|e empty bottles, and found great relief from the
use of it; for being obliged to labour hard by turns
to keep the boat above water, our thirst was much more
severely felt than if we had remained still. The
night came on very dark and lowering; the sky
seemed big with an impending tempest ; the wind
blew hard from the N. E. and before midnight the
sea combed into the boat in such quantities as
several times to fill her more than half full. All
hands were employed in throwing out the water
with hats and other things, each believing his final
hour had at length arrived, and expecting that every
approaching surge would bury him forever in a
watery grave.
The boat racked like an old basket, letting in water
at every seam and split ; her timbers working out or
breaking off; the nails I had put in while last on
shore were kept from entirely drawing out, merely
by the pressure of the water acting on the outside
of the boat. Sharp flashes of lightning caused by
heat and vapour shot across the gloom, rendering the
"io CAPTAIN PaLEY S NARRATIVE.
scene doubly horrid. In this situation some of the
men thought it was no longer of use to try to keep
the boat afloat, as they said she must soon fill in
spite of all their exertions. Having poured out our
souls before our God and implored pardon for our
transgressions, each one felt perfectly resigned to his
fate : this was a trying moment, and my example and
advice could scarcely induce them to continue
bailin.o-; whilst some of them, bv thrustine: their heads
into the water, endeavoured to ascertain what the
pains of death were by feeling the effects the water
would produce on their organs. Thus passed this
night : all my exertions were necessary to encourage
the men to assist me in bailing the boat, by reminding
them ofour miraculous escape from the savages, and
through the surf to the open sea, and enforcing on
their minds the consideration that we were still in
the hands of the same disposing power, and that we
ought not to suppose we were aided in escaping
from the shore by a miracle to be abandoned here
and swallowed up by the ocean : and that for my
own part I still entertained hopes of our preserva-
tion ; at any rate that it was a duty we owed to God
and ourselves to strive to the latest breath to prevent
our own destruction. Day came on amidst these
accumulated horrors ; it was the 1st of September;
thirst pressed upon us, which we could only allay by
wetting our mouths twice a day with a few drops oi"
wine and water, and as many times with our urine.
The wind continued to blow hard all this dav,
and the succeeding night with great violence, and
the boat to work and leak in the same niRnuor as
SUFFERINGS IN THE BOAT. 47
before. Worn down with fatio^ues and lonff-con-
tinued hunger and thirst, scorched bj the burning
rays of the sun, and no vessel appearing to save us,
our water fast diminishing, as well as our strength,
every hope of succour by meeting with a vessel en-
tirely failed me, so that in the afternoon of the 2d
of September, I represented to my companions, that
as we were still alive, after enduring so many trials,
it was my advice to put about, and make towards
the coast again; that if Ave continued at sea, we
must inevitably perish, and that we could but perish
in returning towards the land; that we might still
exist four or five days longer, by means of the water
and provisions that remained, and that it might be
the will of Providence to send us on the coast where
our vessel had been wrecked, and where means were
perhaps prepared to bring about our deliverance
and restoration to our country and our families.
All seemed convinced that it was so, and we imme-
diately put about with a kind of cheerfulness I had
not observed in any countenance since our first dis-
aster.
From this time all submitted to their fate with
tolerable patience, and kept the boat free, though
we had continual bad weather, without murmuring.
We wetted our lips with wine and water twice every
day, and ate the bones and some of the raw flesh of
our pig, with its skin ; but at length we became so
faint as to be unable to take our turns in bailing,
whilst the boat laboured so much as to work off
nearly all the nails that kept the planks to her tim-
bers above water.
4H
By the 6th of September, at night, we had not
made the land, and could not hope to make the boat
hold together in any manner above another day.
I expected we should have found the land that day,
but was disappointed, and some of the people began
again to despair. Impelled by thirst, they forgot
what they owed to their shipmates, and in the night
got at, and drank off one of the two bottles of wine
we had remaining. When I mentioned the loss of
the wine on the morning of the 7th, all denied
having taken or drank it, adding that it was an un-
pardonable crime, and that those who did it ought
to be thrown overboard instantly. From the heat
observable in their conversation, I guessed the of-
fenders, but the wine was gone, and no remedy re-
mained but patience, and stricter vigilance for the
future.
In a short time we discovered land at a great
distance ahead, and to leeward. This gave all hands
new spirits; hope again revived; the land appeared
perfectly smooth in the distant horizon; not the
smallest rising or hill was to be seen, and I conclu-
ded we must be near a desart coast, where our suf-
ferings would find no relief, but in death. We con-
tinued to approach the land, driving along to the
southward by a swift current, roaring like a strong
tide in a narrow rocky passage, until near sunset.
The coast now appeared to be formed of perpen-
dicular and overhanging cliffs, rising to a great
height, with no shelving shore to land on, or way by
which we might mount to the top of the precipices.
My opinion was, that we should endeavour to keep
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 49
to sea this night also, and steer along down the
coast, until bj the help of daylight, we might find a
better place to land, and where we should not be in
such danger of being overwhelmed by the surf; but
in this I was opposed by the united voice of the
mates and all the people.
The surf was breaking high among the rocks,
near the shore : we were now very near the land,
and seeing a small spot that bore the appearance of
a sand beach, we made for it, and approaching it
with the help of our oars, we were carried on the
top of a tremendous wave, so as to be high and dry,
when the surf retired, on a little piece of sand beach,
just large enough for the boat to lie on. Without
us, and in the track we came, numerous fragments
of rocks showed their craggy heads, over which the
surf foamed as it retired, with a dreadful roaring,
which made us feel we had once more escaped in-
stant destruction, by what appeared a miraculous
interference of Providence.
We got out of the boat, and carried up the little
remains of our water and pork, among the rocks
beyond the reach of the surf The remains of the
pig had been previously consumed ; our boat was
now stove in good earnest; over our heads pended
huge masses of broken and shattered rocks, extend-
ing both ways as far as the eye could reach : our
limbs had become stiff for the want of exercise ; our
flesh had wasted away for the want of sustenance,
and through fatigue our tongues were so stiff in our
parched mouths, that we could with great difficulty
speak so as to be understood by each other, though
H
50 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
we had finished our last bottle of wine between us,
for fear of losing it, just before we ventured to the
shore through the surf.
Being thus placed on dry land, we had yet to dis-
cover how we were to reach the surface above us —
so taking Mr. Savage with me, we clambered over
the rocks to the westward, (for the coast running
here from E. N. E. to W. S. W. induced me to think
we were near Cape Blanco, which indeed afterwards
proved to be the case) but we searched in vain, and
as there appeared to be no access to the summit in
that direction, we returned (it being then dark) to
our shipmates, who had been busied in preparing a
place on the sand, between rocks, to sleep on. We
now wet our mouths with water, ate a small slice of
the fat of salt pork, and after pouring out our souls
before the universal Benefactor, in prayers and
thanksgiving for his mercy and his long continued
goodness, (as had constantly been our custom) we
laid down to rest, and notwithstanding our dreadful
situation, slept soundly till daylight
BUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 51
CHAP. VII.
Sufferings of the Crew, and manner of climbing over
the rochs along the sea-shore, under high cliffs —
reaching the surface of the desart — meeting with a
company of wandering ^rabs, by whom they are
seized as slaves, and stripped naked.
On the morning of September the 8th, as soon as
it was h'ght, being much refreshed by our undisturb-
ed sleep, we agreed to leave all we had that was
cumbrous or heavy, and try to make our way to the
eastward, in hopes of finding a place, whilst we had
yet strength remaining, to dig for water, or to get
to the surface of the land above us, where we hoped
to find some herbage or vegetable juice to allay, in
some degree, our burning thirst, which was now
rendered more grievous than ever, by our eating a
few muscles that were found on the rocks, and ex-
tremely salt. Having agreed to keep together, and
to render each other mutual assistance, we divided
amongst us the Httle water we had, every one re-
ceiving his share in a bottle, in order to preserve it
as long as possible : then taking a small piece or
two of pork, which we slung on our backs, either in
a spare shirt or a piece of canvass, leaving all our
clothes but those we had on, and our jackets, we
bent our way towards the east. I had, before start-
ing, buried the bag of dollars, and induced each
man to throw away every one he had about him, as
I was convinced that money had been the cause of
52 CAPTAIN RILtY's NARRATIVE.
our formei' ill treatment, by tempting the natives to
practise treacherous and cruel means, in order to ex-
tort it from us.
We proceeded now, as well as we were able,
along close to the water side. The land was either
nearly perpendicular, or jutting over our heads,
rising to the height of from five to six hundred feet,
and we were forced to climb over masses of sharp
and craggy rocks, from two to three hundred feet in
height; then to descend again by letting ourselves
down from rock to rock, until we reached the
water's edge; now waiting for a surf to retire, while
we rushed one by one past a steep point up to our
necks in the water, to the rocks more favourable on
the other side, where by clinging fast hold, we kept
ourselves from being washed away by the next surf,
until, with each other's assistance, we clambered up
beyond the reach of the greedy billows. The beat-
ins: of the ocean, and the force of the currents
against this coast, had undermined the precipices in
such a manner, that vast masses of rocks, gravel,
and sand, had given way, and tumbled to the shore.
Rocks falling on rocks, had formed chasms, through
which we were forced to pass at times, for a long-
distance, and surmounting one obstacle, seemed only
to open to our view another, and a more dangerous
one. At one place, we were obliged to climb along
on a narrow ledge of rocks, between forty and fifty
feet high, and not more than eight inches broad ;
those at our backs were perpendicular, and a little
higher up, huge pieces that had been broken off from
near the surface, and stopped on their way down by
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. S3
other fragments, seemed to totter, as if on a pivot,
directly over our heads ; while the least shp must
have phmged us into the frightful abyss below,
where the foaming surges would instantly have dash-
ed us to pieces against the rocks. Our shoes were
nearly all worn oif ; our feet were lacerated and
bleeding; the rays of the sun beating on our ema-
ciated bodies, heated them, we thought, nearly to
dissolution; and under these towering cliifs, there
was not a breath of air to fan our almost boihng
blood. I had, in crawling through one of the holes
between the rocks, broke my bottle, and spilled the
little water it contained, and my tongue cleaving to
the roof of my mouth, was as useless as a dry stick,
until I was enabled to loosen it by a few drops of
my more than a dozen times distilled urine.
Thus passed this day with us, and when night
came on, it brought with jt new distresses. We
had advanced along the coast not more than about
four miles this day, with all the exertion we were
capable of, without finding any change for the better
in our local situation, whilst our strength was con-
tinually diminishing, and no circumstance occurred
to revive our hopes. We had seen this day, how-
ever, on the broken rocks, several locusts, which we
took to be grasshoppers, and concluded, if we could
once reach the surface, we should find herbage, at
least, to feed on. These locusts were dead, ond
crumbled to dust on the slightest touch.
We found now a good place in the sand, .bout
one hundred feet from the sea. under a high cliff, to
sleep on ; here we greased our mouths by eating a
54 CAPTAIN RiLEY's NARRATIVE.
small piece of salt pork, and wet them as usual with
a sip of urine. All hands, except myself, had a lit-
tle fresh water left; my comrades knew I had not
one drop, and two of them offered to let me taste of
theirs, with which I just moistened my tongue, and
after sending up our prayers to heaven for mercy
aild relief in our forlorn and desolate condition, we
laid ourselves down to sleep.
I had, on setting out from home, received Horace
Savage under my particular charge, from his widow-
ed mother : his father, when living, having been my
intimate friend, I promised her to take care of him,
as if he was my own son, and this promise I had en-
deavoured to fulfil. He was now in deep distress,
and I determined within myself that I would adopt
him as my son, for his mother was poor ; that I would
watch over his ripening years, in case we both lived,
and if fortune should favour me in future, that he
should share it in common with my children. I now
took him in my arms, and we all slept soundly till
morning, though the change was so great in the
nioht, from extreme heat to a damp cold air, that we
awoke in the morning (September 9th) with benumb-
ed and trembling limbs. Sleep, however, had re-
freshed us, and though our feet were torn, and our
frames nearly exhausted, yet we chased away de-
spair, and set forward on our journey.
We soon discovered, at no great distance ahead, a
sand beach that appeared large, and from which the
shore upward seemed more sloping, as if opening a
way to the surface above it ; we also thought we
should be able, in case we could reach the beach, to
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 0&.
get water that would be drinkable, by digging in the
sand, down to a level with the water in the sea, and
letting it filter into the hole : this I had done on the
little keys of the Bahama bank, with success, and
expected it would be the same here; — so we made
our way slowly along, as we had done the day be-
fore, until we got within a short distance of this,
beach, where we met with a promontory of rocks,
which rose in height even with the surface above
us ; jutting far into the sea, whose waves had worn
in under its base to the distance of fifty or one hun-
dred feet, and now dashed in a wild and frightful
manner against the projecting points, which its wash-
ings for ages had formed underneath. To climb
over this formidable obstruction, was impossible ; to
get around it through the water, appeared equally
so, as there was not sufficient time, by the greatest
exertion, to pass before the return of the surf, which
would inevitably hurl the adventurer into the cavi-
ties under the cliff, among the sharp rocks, where he
must immediately perish.
Thus far we had all got safe; to advance by what
appeared to be the only possible way, seemed like
seeking instant death ; to remain in our present situ-.
ation, was merely to die a lingering one, and to re-
turn, was still worse, by increasing our pains,, with-
out leading to any chance of relief Before us vras
a prospect of getting water, and arriving at the sum-
mit of the land, if we could only get round the pro-
montory alive ; and fortunately, at this moment, we
observed a rock about half-way across this point,
that had tumbled down from above, andJhad been
56 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
washed full of holes; it was covered by every surf,
and its top left bare as the wave receded. I
imagined I could reach it before the wave came in;
and after making known my intentions to my com-
panions, I followed the surf out, and laid hold of the
rock, just as the returning swell overwhelmed me.
1 clung to it for my life, the surf passing over me,
and spending its fury among the crags : the instant
it retired, I hurried on to the steep rocks beyond the
point, where I again held on, while another surf
swept over me, and then left me to clamber up as
quick as I was able on the flat surface of the rock,
beyond the reach of the waves. The tide was not
yet entirely out, though I had judged it was ; and as
it continued to fall, my people loHowing the same
course, and embracing the same means, all got safe
to the first rock, and from thence to the place where
I lay prostrate to receive and assist them in getting
up. Though our limbs and bodies were very much
bruised in this severe encounter, yet we felt some-
what encouraged, and made for the sand beach as fast
as we were able. We soon reached it, and began
digging in the sand for water, at different distances
from the sea, but found \i j be as salt as the ocean.
After di8:ging several bcirss farther oif, and meeting
with dry rock instead of wl ter, I pitched upon a spot
for our last effort, and while the others were digging,
I told them I would go and see if I could get up
the bank, and if I succeeded that I would return in
a short time with the news : the bank here rose ab-
ruptly, leaving, however, in sorae places sufficient
slope for a man to ascend it by climbing. Through
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 5.7'
one of these slopes I made my way up, in the hope
of finding some green thing that might help to allay
our burnino- thirst, and some tree to shelter us from
the scorching blaze of the sun ; but what was my
surprise when I came to the spot so long desired, and
found it to be a barren plain, extending as far as the
eye could reach each way, without a tree, shrub, or
spear of grass, that might give the smallest relief to
expiring nature ? I had exerted myself to the utmost
to get there ; the dreary sight was more than I could
bear ; my spirits fainted within me, and I fell to the
earth, deprived of every sensation. When I recovered,
it was some time before I could recollect where I
was: my intolerable thirst however at length con-
vinced me, and I was enabled to administer the same
wretched and disorustino; rehef to which I had so
frequently before been compelled to resort.
Despair now seized on me, and I resolved to cast
myself into the sea as soon as I could reach it, and
put an end to my life and miseries together. But
when I the next moment reflected that I had left
ten of ray fellow creatures on the shore, who look-
ed up to me for an example of courage and fortitude,
and for whom I still felt myself bound to continue my
exertions, which might yet be blessed with success,
and that at the moment when I supposed the hand
of relief far from me, it might be very near; and
when I next thought of my wife and children, I felt
a kind of conviction within me, that we should not
all perish after such signal deliverances. I then made
for the sea side about a mile eastward of my men,
and finding a good place between some ron^jSj I
08 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
bathed myself for half an hour in the sea water,
which refreshed and revived me very much, and then
returned to mj men with a heart lighter than I ex-
pected. I was very much fatigued, and threw myself
down on the sand. They huddled around me, to
know what success I had met with; but to wave the
subject of my sad discovery, I told them we could go
along the beach for two miles before meeting again
with the perpendicular cliffs, and would find great
relief by bathing our bodies in the salt water; in-
quiring, at the same time, if they had found any fresh
in the last place they had been digging. I thus di-
verted their minds, in some measure, from the
object they wished to inquire after; and as I found
they had dug down six or eight feet, and had found
no water, having come to a rock which frustrated
all their attempts; with heavy hearts and tottering
limbs we staggered along the shore together.
It was about mid-day when we got to the end of
the sand beach ; my people thought it would be im-
possible for them to climb the craggy steep ; so
with common consent we laid ourselves down under
the shade formed by a shelving rock, to rest, and to
screen ourselves from the rays of the sun, which had
heated the air to such a degree, that it was with the
greatest difficulty we could fetch our breath. There
was no wind or air stirring at this time, except the
hot steam rising from the sandy beach, which had
been wet by the sea at the last tide.
Having lain down in our exhausted state, neither
thirst nor our reflections had power to keep our eyes
open; we sunk into a lethargic sleep, which continued
about two hours, during which time a light breeze
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 59
from the sea had set in, and gently fanned and re-
freshed our debilitated bodies. We then ascended
the steep bank, crawhng frequently on our hands
and knees. Though I had previously prepared all
their minds for a barren prospect, yet the sight of
it, when they reached its level, had such an effect on
their senses, that they sunk to the earth involuntari-
ly ; and as they surveyed the dry and dreary waste,
stretching out to an immeasurable extent before
them, they exclaimed, "'tis enough; here we must
breathe our last; we have no hope before us of find-
ing either water or provisions, or human beings, or
even wild beasts ; nothing can five here." The httle
moisture yet left in us overflowed at our eyes, but
as the salt tears rolled down our woe-worn and
haggard cheeks, we were fain to catch them with
our fingers and carry them to our mouths, that they
might not be lost, and serve to moisten our tongues,
that were now nearly as dry as parched leather,
and so stiff, that with difficulty we could articu-
late a sentence so as to be understood by each
other.
I began now to exhort and press them to go
forward; telling them that we still might find relief,
and in this effort I was assisted by Hogan, who
thought with me that it was time enough to lie down
and die, when we could not walk. Mr. Williams and
Mr. Savage were also willing, and we moved on
slowly, with scarcely a hope however of meeting with
the least relief We continued along on the edge
of the cliffs, which could not be less than from five
to six hundred feet in perpendicular height: the
dd CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
surface of the ground was baked down almost as hard
as flint ; it was composed of small ragged stones,
gravel, and reddish earth. We observed a small dry
stalk of a plant, resembling that of a parsnip, though
very low ; and some dry remains of locusts were
also scattered on the surface as we proceeded. Near
night we saw some small holes dug on the surface,
and on examination found they had been made in
order to get at the root of the dry weed we had just
before seen : this we conceived had been done by
some wild beasts; but finding no tracks of any kind
near them, nor on the dirt dug up, I concluded it
was done by man, and declared my hopes to my
desponding companions of soon meeting with human
beings.
We procured, after great labour in digging with
sticks we had brought from the boat, and the help
of stones, a few small pieces of a root as large as a
man's finger; it was very dry, but in taste resembled
smellage or celery. We could not get enough to
be of any material service to us, owing to the scarcity
of the plant, and the hardness of the ground; but
about sunset we discovered, on a small spot of sand,
the imperfect track of a camel, and thought we saw
that of a man, which we took to be a very old
track.
Believing from our present feelings that we could
not possibly survive a day longer without drink, and
no signs of finding any appearing, the last ray of
hope faded away, and the gloom of despair, which
had at length settled on our hearts, now became
visible in every countenance. A little after sunset
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 61
we saw at a considerable distance in advance, say
three or four miles, another sand beach, and I urged
mjself forward towards it as fast as I could, in hopes
of getting some rest by sleeping on the sand for the
night, as the ground we were now on was as hard
as rock, and covered with small sharp stones. I was
encouraging the men to follow on, when Clark,
being near me, begged me to look towards the
beach, saying, " I think I see a light !" it was the
light of a fire !
Joy thrilled through my veins like the electric
spark ; hope again revived within me, and while I
showed it to my sinking and despairing crew, I found
it communicated to them the same feelings. I told
them we must approach the natives, who I could not
doubt were encamped for the night, with the great-
est caution, for fear of alarming: them, and falling a
sacrifice to their fury in the confusion we might
occasion by our sudden approach in the dark. New
life and spirits were diifused into all the crew, and
we soon reached a broken place in the bank, through
which we descended carefully over the broken rocks
from three to four hundred feet to a sandy spot near
its base, where we laid ourselves down for the night,
after imploring the protection of Almighty God, and
wetting our mouths with a few drops of water still
remaining in the bottles.
The sand on which we lay was heated by the sun's
rays sufficiently to have roasted eggs, and as we were
on the side of a sand hill, we scraped off the top of
it for a foot or two deep ; when finding the heat more
supportable, and the cool breeze of the night setting
t>2 CAPTAIN RILEY^S NARRATlVfc.
in, all hands being excessively fatigued, soon forgot;
their sufferings in the arms of sleep, excepting myself;
for my mind had become so excited by alternate
hopes, and fears, and reflections, that I was kept
awake through the whole of this long and dismal
night. I had determined, as soon as daylight ap-
peared, to show ourselves to the natives, and submit
either to death or life from their hands. I had no
doubt of their being Arabs, who would take and hold
us as slaves, and though I did not expect myself to live
but a short time in that condition, I presumed some of
my fellow sufferers might, and that it was a decree of
Providence which had set this alternative before us.
I no longer felt any fear of death, for that would
put a period to my long sufferings: my thirst had
become so Insupportable, that I could with difficulty
breathe, and thought I would be willing to sell my
life for one gill of fresh water. My distresses had
been so excessive, and my cares and anxieties for
my shipmates so great, that all thoughts of my fami-
ly had been driven almost entirely from ray mind.
I could not sleep— why was I denied what all around
me were enjoying ! — I shut my eyes, and prayed to
be permitted to sleep, if (j)nly for one hour, but all in
vain. I imagined that the savages, who were near
us, would not take our lives immediately, as it was
contrary to the nature of man to slay his fellow-
creatures, merely from a thirst for blood.
We had now no arms to defend ourselves, nor any
property to excite their jealousy, revenge, or ava-
rice — we were as miserable as human beings could
be, and I hoped we should excite pity, even in the
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 63
breasts of the savage Arabs. I could hardly yet
think, that we were to fall a sacrifice to these peo-
ple, after the providential escapes we had already
experienced : next the remembrance of my wife and
children flitted across my mind, and I was forced to
acknowledge, that however bad their situation might
be, their real distress could in no wise equal mine,
and that I had no right to repine at the dispensations
of Providence, since every mortal has his circle
wisely marked out by heaven; and nothing but
blindness to the future, occasions us to complain of
the ways of our Creator. If it was the will of the
Supreme Being that I should again see and embrace
my beloved family, it would certainly take place; if
not, that power who ordered all things for the gene-
ral good, would not forsake them.
Thus passed away the night, which had seemed to
me an endless one. I was impatient to know my fate,
and chid the slowness of the sun : ray great anxiety
and wakefulness, rendered my thirst doubly painful,
and having expended all the urine I had so carefully
saved, I had recourse before morning to robbery,
and actually stole a sip of the cook's water, which
he had made and saved in a bottle ; but the only
taste it had lor me, was a salt one, and it seemed (if
possible) to increase my burning thirst. The day
at last arrived that was to decide our fate. It was
the 10th of September. I awakened my companions,
and told them we must now go forward and show
ourselves to the natives — that I expected they would
seize upon us as slaves, but had strong hopes that
some of us would escape with our lives. I also men-
64 - CAPTALV Riley's narrativji:*
tioned to tliein the name of the American Consul
General at Tangier, and that if it ever was in their
power, they must write to him, inform him of the
fate of our vessel and her crew : to write, if possi-
ble, to any Christian merchant in Magadore, Gibral-
tar, or elsewhere, or to the Consul at Algiers, Tunis,
or Tripoli, if they should hear those places mention-
ed, and exhorted all to submit to their fate like men,
and be obedient, as policy required, to their future
masters. I reminded them again of the former in-
terpositions of Providence in our favour, and said
all I could to encourage and persuade them, that
mildness and submission might save our lives — that
resistance and stubbornness would certainly tend to
make them more miserable while alive, and proba-
bly prompt the natives to murder them out of re-
sentment.
All agreed to go forward, and on rising the little
sand hills near us, we discovered a very large drove
of camels at about half a mile to the eastward of
us, with a large company of people, in a kind of
valley formed by a ridge of sand hills on the north
next the sea, and by the high land to the south,
rising from five to six hundred feet in upright and
overhan2:Inor cliffs — throuo-h w'hich a little farther on
we saw a deep hollow that appeared to have been
formed by some convulsive shoe..; >f the eart!), which
had thus made a sort of passage, through which
camels were enabled to pass up and down, but with
great difliculty. The Arabs seemed busied in giving
water to their camels; they saw us, and in an instant
one man and two women ran towards us with great
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 65
speed. As they came forward, many others of them
who saw us, also began to advance : so taking Mr.
Williams and Mr. Savage with me, I went forward
to meet them, bowed myself to the ground before
them, and with signs implored their compassion.
The man was armed with a scimitar, which he held
naked in his hand ; he ran up to me as if to cut me
to the earth : I bowed again in token of submission,
and he began without further ceremony to strip oif
my clothing, while the women were doing the same
to Mr. Williams and Mr. Savage. Thirty or forty
more were arriving — some running on foot, with
muskets or naked scimitars in their hands; others
riding on swift camels, came quickly up : — by the
time they arrived, however, we were all stripped
naked to the skin. Those Arabs near us threw up
sand into the air, as the others approached ; yelling
loudly, which I now learned was a sign of hostihty.
The one who strlpt me had also taken the cook, and
had put all the clothing he had stript from us into a
blanket, which he had taken from off his own back
for that purpose, leaving himself entirely naked.
This bundle he laid on the negro's shoulders, making
me understand that myself and the black man be-
longed to him, and that we must not let the others
take the clothes in the bundle under pain of death.
As soon as those on the camels w^ere near, they
made them lie down, and jumping off, ran to us with
their scimitars naked and ready for action ; those on
foot now joined these, and a great noise and scuffle
ensued. Six or eight of them were about me, one
hauling me one Avay and one another — ^poor Dick,
K
66 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the black man, partook of the hauling, and eacb-
man seemed to insist most strenuously that we be-
longed of right to him. The one who stript us-
stuck to us as his lawful property, signifying, " you
may have the others, these are mine," They cut
at each other over my head, and on every side of me
with their bright weapons, which fairly whizzed
through the air within an inch of my naked body,
and on every side of me, now hacking each other's
arms apparently to the bone, then laying their ribs
bare with gashes, while their heads, hands, and
thighs, received a full share of cuts and wounds-
The blood streaming from every gash, ran down their
bodies, colouring and heightening the natural hide-
ousness of their appearance. I had expected to be
cut to pieces in this dreadful affray, but was not
injured.
Those who were not actually engaged in combat,
seized the occasion, and snatched away the clothing
in Dick's bundle, so that when the fight was over,
he had nothing left but his master's blanket. This
battle and contest lasted for nearly an hour — brother
cutting brother, friend slashing friend. Happily for
them, their scimitars were not very sharp, so that
when they rubbed off the dried blood from their
bodies afterwards with sand, their wounds were not
so great or deep as I expected they would be, and
they did not pay the least apparent attention to them.
I had no time to see what they were doing with my
shipmates ; only myself and the cook were near each
other
BUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 67
The battle over, I saw my distressed companions
divided among the Arabs, and all going towards the
drove of camels, though they were at some distance
from me. We too were delivered into the hands of
two old women, who m'ged us on with sticks towards
the camels. Naked and barefoot I could not go
very fast, and showed the women my mouth, which
was parched white as frost, and without a sign of
moisture. When we got near the well, one of the
women called for another, who came to us with a
wooden bowl, that held, I should guess, about a
gallon of water, and setting it on the ground, made
myself and Dick kneel down and put our heads
into it like camels. I drank I suppose half a gallon,
though I had been very particular in cautioning the
men against drinking too much at a time, in case they
ever came to water. I now experienced how much
easier it was to preach than to practise aright.
They then led us to the well, the water of which
was nearly as black and disgusting as stale bilge
water. A large bowl was now filled with it, and a
little sour camel's milk poured from a goat skin into
it ; this tasted to me delicious, and we all drank of it
till our stomachs were hterally filled. But this intem-
perance very soon produced a violent diarrhoea;
the consequences of which, however, were not very
troublesome, and as our situation was similar to that
of a beast, being totally divested of clothing, all we
cared about was to slake our unabating thirst, and
replenish our stomachs by repeated draughts of this
^ashy and unwholesome swill.
68 . CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
We now begged for something to eat, but these
Arabs liad nothing for themselves, and seemed very
sorry it was not in their power to 2;ive us some food*
There were at and about the well I should reckon
about one hundred persons, men, women, and child-
ren, and from four to five hundred camels, large and
small. The sun beat very fiercely upon us, and our
skins seemed actually to fry like meat before the fire.
These people continued to draw water for their
camels, of which the animals drank enormous quan-
tities. It was about 10 o'clock A. M. as I judged
by the sun, when one company of the Arabs having
finished watering, separated their camels from among
tlie others, took Mr. Williams, Robbins, Porter,
Hogan, Barrett, and Burns, mounted them on the
bare backs of the camels behind the hump, by the
hair of which they were obliged to steady them-
selves and hold on, without knowing whither they
were iroincf, or if I should ever see them ag-ain. i
took an aifectionate leave of them. This their
Arab masters permitted me to do without interrup-
tion, and could not help showing, at this scene, that
the feelings of humanity were not totally extinguished
in their bosoms. They then hurried them oif and
ascending through the hollow or crevice towards the
face of the desart, they were all soon out of sight.
There remained with the party to which I belonged,
Mr. Savage, Clark, Horace, and Dick the cook. Mr.
Savage was permitted to retain an old Guernsey
frock, and part of a pair of trowsers about his
middle, which they had not pulled off: but the rest
of us were entirely stripped. Mr. Savage, Clark,
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 69
and Horace were forced to assist in drawing water
for the camels, until all had drunk their fill : then
havinof filled with water a considerable number of
goat skins, which had been stripped off these animals
over the neck, leaving them, otherwise, as whole
as when on their backs, they slung them by the skin
of their legs on each side of the camels, after tying
up the neck to prevent the water escaping, by means
of a small rope which they fastened to the fore legs
'of the skin to keep it up. They next put on their
baskets for the women and children to ride in; these
were made of camel's skin, and fixed in such a man-
ner vv^ith a wooden rim around them, over which the
skin was sewed, that three or four could sit in them
with perfect safety and ease, only taking care to
preserve their balance. These baskets were fast-
ened under the camels' bellies with a strong rope. I
was obliged to assist in putting them on, and was
in hopes of being permitted to ride in one of them,
but that was not the intention of my master. I, as
well as those who were with me, had drunk a great
deal of water, while we were at the well, which
had passed off, as before observed, without doing us
any injury. We had been furnished also with a lit-
tle milk in our water two or three times, which gave
some relief to our hunger. The men had saddles
just large enough for their seat : the pads are made of
flat pieces of wood : a piece of the same rises in front,
being about the length, breadth, and thickness of a
man's hand; an iron rim, or a strong wooden one, goes
round on each side, forming a circle ; covered with a
piece of skin stretched and sewed taut over it.
The saddle is then placed on the camel's back before
70 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
the hump,and fastened tight by a rope under his bellj.
Thus prepared we began to mount the sand hills and
to get up through the gulley. We were forced to
walk and to drive the camels and keep them together,
whilst the sand was so soft and yielding, that we sunk
into it every step nearly to our knees. The blazing
heat of the sun's rays darting on our naked bodies,
and reflected from the sand we waded through ; the
sharp pointed craggy rocks and stones that cut our
feet and legs to the bone, in addition to our excessive
weakness which the dysentery had increased, render-
ed our passage up through this chasm or hollow much
more severe than any thing of the kind we had
before undergone, and nearly deprived us of life.
For my own part I thought I must have died before
I could reach the summit, and was obliged to stop in
the sand, until by an appHcation of a stick to my
sore back by our drivers, I was forced up to its level ;
and there they made the camels lie down and
rest.
StiFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 71
CHAP. VIII.
77tc author and his crew are carried on camels into the
interior of the Desart of Zahahrah — the Arabs
hold a council — the crew are sold and distributed —
the author'' s remarkable dream — the skin andfesh are
literally roasted off from his body and from the bones
of his companions — their dreadful sufferings while
naked and wandering about the desart with their
masters^ subsisting only on a little cameVs 7mlk — two
Arab traders arrive.
The Arabs had been much amused in observing
our difficulty in ascending the height, and kept up a
laugh while they were whipping us forward. Their
women and children were on foot as well as
themselves, and went up without the smallest
difficulty or inconvenience, though it was extremely
hard for the camels to mount ; and before they got
to the top they were covered with sweat and frotL
Having now selected five camels for the purpose, one
for each of us, they put us on behind the humps, to
which we were obliged to cling by grasping its long
hair with both hands. The back bone of the one I was
set on was only covered with skin, and as sharp
as the edge of an oar's blade ; his belly, distended
with water, made him perfectly smooth, leaving
no projection of the hips to keep me from sliding
off behind, and his back or rump being as steep as
the roof of a house, and so broad across as to keep
my legs extended to their utmost stretch. I was in
72
this manner slipping down to his tail every moment.
I was forced however to keep on, while the camel^
rendered extremely restive at the sight of his strange
rider, was all the time running about among the
drove, and making a most woful bellowing, and as
they have neither bridle, halter, or any other thing
whereby to guide or govern them, all I had to do
was to stick on as w^ell as I could.
The Arabs, both men and women, were very
anxious to know where we had been thrown on
shore, whether to the eastward or westward ;
and being satisfied by me on that point, so soon as
they had placed us on the camels, and given the
w^omen directions how to steer, they mounted each
his camel, seated themselves on the small round
saddle, and then crossing their legs on the animal's
shoulders, set off to the westward at a great trot,
leaving us under the care of the women, some of
whom were on foot, and urged the camels forward
as fast as they could run. The heavy motions of the
camel, not unlike that of a small vessel in a heavy
head-beat sea, were so violent, aided by "the sharp
back bone, as soon to excoriate certain parts of my
naked body ; the inside of my thighs and legs
were also dreadfully chafed, so. .that the blood
dripped from my heels, while the intense heat of the
sun had scorched and blistered our bodies and the
outside of our legs, so that we were covered/with
sores, and without any thing to administer relief Thus
bleeding and smarting under the most excruciating
pain, we continued to advance in a S. E. direction
on a plain flat hard surface of sand, gravel, and rock,
covered with small sharp stones. It seemed as if
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. /3
our bones would be dislocated at every step. Hun-
gry and thirsty, the night came on, and no indication
of stopping ; the cold night wind began to blow,
chilling our blood, which ceased to trickle down our
lacerated legs ; but although it saved our blood, yet
acting on our blistered skins, it increased our pains be-
yond description. We begged to be permitted to get
off, but the women paid no attention to our distress nor
entreaties, intent only on getting forward. We
designedly slipped off the camels when going at a
full trot, risking to break our necks by the fall, and
tried to excite their compassion and get a drink of
water, (which they call sherub) but they paid no at-
tention to our prayers,and kept the camels running fas-
ter than before.
This was the first time I had attempted to walk
barefooted since I was a schoolboy : we were obliged
to keep up with the camels, running over the stones,
which were nearly as sharp as gun flints, and cutting
our feet to the bone at every step. It was here that
my fortitude and philosophy failed to support me ;
I cursed my fate aloud, and wished I had rushed into
the sea before I gave myself up to these merciless
bein2:s in human forms — it was now too late. I would
have put an immediate end to my existence, but had
neither knife nor any other weapon with which to
perform the deed. I searched for a stone, intending
if I could find a loose one sufficiently large, to knock
out my own brains with it; but searched in vain.
This paroxysm passed off in a minute or two, when
reason returned, and I recollected that my life was in
the hand of the power that gave it, and that " the
h
/4 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
Judge of all the earth would do right." Then run-
ing with all my remaining might, I soon came up with
the camels, regardless of my feet and of pain, and
felt perfectly resigned and willing to submit to
the will of Providence and the fate that awaited
me.
From that time forward, through all my succeeding
trials and sufferings, I never once murmured in my
heart, but at all times kept my spirits up, doing the
utmost to obey and please those whom fortune, fate,
or an overruling Providence had placed over me,and to
persuade, both by precept and practice, my unhappy
comrades to do the same. I had, with my compa-
nions, cried aloud with pain, and begged our savage
drivers for mercy, and when we had ceased to make
a noise, fearing, as it were, to lose us in the dark, they
stopped the camels, and again placing us on them as
before, drove them on at full speed until about mid-
night, when we entered a small dell or valley, excava=
ted by the hand of nature, a little below the surface
of the desart, about from fifteen to twenty feet deep.
Here they stopped the camels, and made them lie
down, bidding us to do the same. I judge we must
have travelled forty miles this day to the S. E. :
the place was hard and rocky, not even sand to lie
on, nor any covering to shelter us or keep off the
cold damp wind that blew strong from the sea.
They soon set about milking, and then gave us
each about a pint of pure milk, warm from the camels,
taking great care to divide it for us ; it warmed our
stomachs, quenched our thirst in some measure, and
allayed in a small degree the cravings of hunger.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. ^5
Mr. Savage had been separated from us, and I learn-
ed from hira afterwards that he fared better than
we did, having had a larger allowance of milk.
Clark, Horace, and Dick the cook were still with me.
We lay down on the ground as close to each other
as we could, on the sharp stones, without any lee to
fend off the wind from us ; our bodies all over blis-
tered and mangled, the stones piercing through the
sore naked flesh to the ribs and other bones. These
distresses, and our sad and desponding reflections,
rendered this one of the longest and most dismal nights
ever passed by any human beings. We kept shifting
births, striving to keep ofl* some of the cold during
the night, while sleep, that had hitherto relieved our
distresses and fatigues, fled from us in spite of all our
efforts and solicitude to embrace it ; nor Avere we
able to close our eyes.
The morning of the 11th came on at last, and
our industrious mistresses having milked a little from
the camels, and allowed the young ones to suck,
gave us about half a pint of milk among four of us,
being just enough to wet our mouths, and then made
us go forward on foot and drive the camels. The
situation of our feet was horrible beyond description,,
and the very recollection of it, even at this moment,
makes my nerves thrill and quiver. We proceeded
forward, having gained the level desart for a eon-
siderable time, when entering a small valley, we dis-
covered three or four tents made of coarse cloth
near which we were met by our masters and a
number of men whom we had not before seen, all
armed with either a double barrelled musket, a
76 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
scimitar, or dagger. They were all of the same
nation and tribe, for they shook hands at meeting,
and seemed very friendly to each other, though
they stopped and examined us, as if disposed to ques-
tion the right of property.
It now appeared there was still some difficulty
in deciding to whom each one of us belonged ; for
seizing hold of us, some dragged one way and some
another, disputing very loudly and frequently drawing
their weapons. It was however decided at last,
after making us go different ways for the space of
two or three hours with different men, that myself
and the cook should remain, for the present, in the
hands of our first master. They gave Clark to another,
and Horace to a third. We had come near a couple of
tents, and were certainly disgusting objects, being na-
ked and almost skinless; this was sometime about noon,
when three women came out who had not before
seen us, and having satisfied their curiosity by gazing
at us, they expressed their disgust and contempt by
spitting at us as we went along, making their faces
still more horrid by every possible contortion of
their frightful features ; this we afterwards found
to be their constant practice wherever we went
until after we got off the desart.
Towards evening a great number of the men
"having collected in a little valley, we were made to
stop, and as our bodies were blistered and burnt to
such a degree as to excite pity in the breasts of some
of the men, they used means to h&ve a tent cleared
out for us to sit under. They then allowed all those
of our crew present to sit under it ; but Porter and
SUFFERIN£3S IN AFRICA. t?;
Burns had been separated from me shortly after
our capture, and, as may well be supposed, we were
o-lad to meet one another a^ain, miserable as we all
were. A council was now held by the natives near
the tent; they were about one hundred and fifty
men, some very old, some middle aged, and some quite
young. I soon found they were Mohamedans, and
the proper names by which they frequently called
each other were jyiohamed, Hamef, Seid, SideuUak,
jlbdallah^ &ic. so that by these and the female names
Faiima, Ezimah, Sarah, &;c. I knew them to be Arabs
or Moors.
The council were deliberating about us; and having
talked the matter over a long time, seated on the
ground, with their lesTS crossed under them in circles of
from ten to twenty each, they afterwards arose and
came to us. One of the old men then addressed me ;
he seemed to be very intelligent, and though he spoke
a language I was unacquainted with, yet he ex-
plained himself in such a plain and distinct manner,
sounding every letter full like the Spaniards, that
with the help of signs I was able to understand his
meaning. He wanted to know what country we
belonged to ; I told him we were English ; and as
I perceived the Spanish language was in sound
more like that which they spoke than any other I
knew, I used the phrase Inglesis ; this seemed to
please him, and he said " O Fransah, O Spaniah ;"
meaning " or Frenchmen or Spaniards ;" I repeated
we were English. He next wanted to know which
point of the horizon we came from, and I pointed
to the North.
•78 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
Thej had seen our boat, which thej called Zooerga^
and wanted to know if" we had come all the way in that
boat : I told them no, and making a kind of coast,
by heaping up sand, and forming the shape of a
vessel, into which I struck sticks for masts and bow-
sprit, &c. I gave him to understand that we had been
in a large vessel, and wrecked on the coast by a
strong wind ; then by tearing down the mast and cov-
ering up the vessel's form with sand, I signified to him
that she was totally lost. Thirty or forty of the other
Arabs were sitting around us, paying the strictest atten-
tion to every one of my words and gestures, and assist-
ing the old man to comprehend me. He wished to
know where we were going, and what cargo the
vessel (which I now found they called Sfenah) had
on board. I satisfied them in the best way I could, on
this point, telling them that I had on board, among
other things, dollars: they wanted to know how many,
and gave me a bowl to imitate the measure of them; this
I did by filling it with stones and emptying it three
times. They were much surprised at the quantity,
and seemed to be dissatisfied that they had not got a
share of them. Tliey then wanted to know which
way the vessel lay from us, and if we had seen any
of the natives, whom they called Moslemin.
This I took to be what we call Mussulmen, or
followers of the Mahommedan doctrine, and in this
I was not mistaken. I then explained to them in what
manner we had been treated by the inhabitants ; that
they had got all our clothing, except what we had on
when they found us ; all our money and provisions ;
massacred one of our number, and drove us out to
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 79
sea. They then told me that they heard of the ship-
wreck of a vessel a great way North, and of the money,
^c. but that tiie crew were drowned in iheelJil Bakar ;
this was so near the Spanish (La Mar) for the sea,
that I could not misunderstand it. Thus having
obtained what information they wanted on those
points, they next desired to know if I knew any
thing about Marochsh ; this sounded something like
Morocco : I answered yes ; next of the Sooltaan (the
Sultan) to which instead of saying yes, T made signs
of assent, for I found they did no more themselves,
except by a cluck with the tongue.
They wanted me to tell his name, Soo Mook^ but
I could not understand them until they mentioned
Moolay Solimaan ; this I remembered to be the name
of the present emperor of Morocco, as pronounced
in Spanish, nearly. I gave them to understand that I
knew him ; had seen him with my eyes, and that he
was a friend to me and to my nation. They next made
me point out the direction towards his dominions,
and having satisfied them that I knew which way his
dominions lay from us, I tried to intimate to them, that
if they would carry me there, I should be able to pay
them for my ransom, and that of my crew. They
shook their heads — it was a great distance, and
nothing for camels to eat or drink on the way. My
shipmates, who were with me, could not understand
one syllable of what they said, or of their signs, and
did not believe that I was able to communicate at all
with them. Having finished their council, and talked
the matter over among themselves, they separated,
Atid our masters, taking each his slave, made off,
jSO captain RlLEl's NARRATIVE.
every one his own way. Although from the confe-
rence I derived hopes of our getting ransomed,
and imparted the same to my mates and crew, yet
they all seemed to think I was deluding them with
false expectations ; nor could I convince them of the
contrary. We took another leave of each other,
when we parted for the night, having travelled this
day, I should guess, about fifteen miles S. E.
I had been so fully occupied since noon, that no
thoughts of victuals or drink had occurred to my
mind. We had none of us ate or drank any thing
this day, except about half a gill of milk each in
the morning at daylight, and about half a pint of
black beach water near the middle of the day. I
was delivered over to an Arab named Bickri, and
went with him near his tent, where he made me lie
down on the ground like a camel. Near midnight
he brought me a bowl containing about a quart of
milk and water; its taste was delicious, and as my
stomach had become contracted by long hunger
and thirst, I considered it quite a plentiful draught.
1 had been shivering with cold for a long time, as I
had no covering nor skreen, and not even one of my
shipmates to lie near me to keep one side warm at
a time. I was so far exhausted by fatigues, privations,
&c. that my misery could no longer keep me awake.
I sank into a deep sleep, and during this sleep I was
troubled in the first place with the most frightful
dreams.
I thought I was naked and a slave, and dream-
ed over the principal incidents which had aheady
actually passei^. I then thought I was driven by
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 81
Arabs with red hot iron spears pointed at me on
every side, through the most dreadful fire I had
ever imagined, for near a mile, naked and barefoot;
the flames up to my eyes, scorched every part of my
skin off, and wasted away my flesh by roasting,
burning, and drying it off to the bones; my tor-
ments were inconceivable — I now thought I looked
up towards heaven, and prayed to the Almighty to
receive my spirit, and end my sufferings ; I was still
in the midst of the flames ; a bright spot like an eye,
with rays arouad it, appeared above me in the firma-
ment, with a point below it, reaching towards the
N. E. — I thought if I went that way I should go
right, and turned from the south to the N. E. ; the
fire soon subsided and I went on, still urged by them
about me, with their spears pricking me from time
to time over high sand hills and rocky steeps, my
flesh dropping off in pieces as I went, — then de-
scending a deep valley, I thought I saw green trees—
flowering shrubs in blossom — cows feeding on green
grass, with horses, sheep, and asses near me, and as
I moved on, I discovered a brook of clear running
water: my thirst being excessive, I dragged my
mangled limbs to the brook, threw myself down,
and drank my fill of the most delicious water. When
my thirst was quenched, I rolled in the brook to cool
my body, which seemed still consuming with heat;
then thanked my God in my heart for his mercies.
My masters in the meantime kept hurrying me oi^
in the way pointed out by the All-seeing eye, which
was still visible in the heavens above my head^
through crooked, thorny, and narrow paths, over
M
82 CAPTAIN RILEY'a NARRATIVE, •"
high mountains and deep valleys — past hopts eft
armed men on horseback and on foot,/aQd walled
cities, until we met a tall young man di:esse«l. in the
European and American mannefv by the side of a^
brook, riding on a stately horse, wh<j> upon seeing,
me alighted, and rushing forward, wild with joy,
caught me in his arms, and pressed me to his breast,
calling me by the endearing name of brother, in my
own language — I thought I fainted in his arms from
excess of joy, and when I revived, found myself in a
neat room, with a table set in the best manner be-
fore me, covered with the choicest meats, fruits, and
wines, and my deliverer pressing me to eat and
drink ; but finding me too much overcome to partake
of this refreshment, he said, " take courage, my dear
friend, God has decreed that you shall again em-
brace your beloved wife and children." At this
instant I was called by my master — I awoke, and
found it was a dream.
Being daylight, (Sept. 12th) he ordered me to
drive forward the camels ; this I did for about an
hour, but my feet were so much swelled, being la-
cerated by the cutting of the stones, which seemed
as if they would penetrate to my heart at every
step — I could not help stooping and crouching down
nearly to the ground. In this situation, my first
master Hamet observed me; he was going on the
same course, S. E. riding on his camel ; he came near
my present master, and after talking with him a good
while, be took off the blanket from his back and
gave it to Bickri — then coming close to me, made
signs for me to stop. He next made his camel lie
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. -6^
down; then fixing a piece of skin over his back
"behind the saddle, and making its two ends fast to
the girths to keep it from slipping off, he bade me
TQount on it, while he got on Ms saddle and steadied
me with his hand until the camel rose. He then
"Went on the same course as before, in company with
three or four other men, well armed and mounted.
The sun beat dreadfully hot upon my bare head and
body, ^nd it appeared to me that my head must soon
«pHt to pieces, as it was racking and cracking with
excruciating pain. Though in this horrible distress,
yet I still thought of my dream of the last night—
*' a drowning man will catch at a straw," says the
proverb, and I can verily add, that the very faintest
gleam of hope will keep alive the declining spirits
of a man in the deepest distress and misery ; for
from the moment I began to reflect on what ha4
passed through my mind when sleeping, I felt con-
'vinced that thoiigh this was nothing more thai a
dream, yet still remembering how narrowly and
often I had escaped immediate apparent death, a«d
believing it was through the peculiar interposition of
divine Providence, I could not but believe that the
All-seeing eye was watching over my steps, and
"Would m due time conduct me by his unerring wis-
dom, into paths that would lead to my deliverance,
€Lnd restoration to my family.
I was never superstitious, nor ever did I believe in
dreams or visions, as they are termed, or even re-
membered them, so as to relate any I may have had;
but this dream made such an impression on mj
mind, that it was not possible for me to remove it
from my memory — being now as fresh as at the jno-
04 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
inent I awoke after dreaming it, and I must add
that when I afterwards saw Mr. Willshire, I knew
him to be the same man I had seen in my sleep.
He had a particular ngark on his chin — ^wore a light
coloured frock coat, had on a white hat, and rode
the same horse. From that time I thought if I
Could once get to the empire of Morocco, I should
be sure to find a friend to relieve me and my com-
panions, whose heart was already prepared for it by
superior power. My mind was thus employed until
we came to a little valley where half a dozen tents
were pitched : as soon as we saw them, Haraet made
his camel kneel down, and me to dismount — he was
met by several women and children, who seemed
very glad to see him, and I soon found that they
yvere his relations. He beckoned me to come
towards his tent, for he lived there apparently with
his mother, and brothers and sisters, but the woman
and girls would not suffer me to approach them,
driving me off with sticks, and throwing stones at
me; but Hamet brought me a little sour milk and
water in a bowl, which refreshed me considerably.
It was about two o'clock in the day, and I was forced
to remain broiling in the sun without either tree, shrub,
or any other shade to shield me from its scorching
rays, until night, when Dick (the cook) came in with
the camels. Hamet had kept Dick from the begin-
ning, and made him drive the camels, but allowed
him to sleep in one corner of the tent, and gave him
for the few first days, as much milk as he could
drink, once a day; and as he was a domestic slave,
he managed to steal water, and sometimes sour
milk when he was drv.
^UFFERIxVGS IN AFRfCA. 85
In the evening of this day, I was joined by Hogan,
and now found that he and myself had been pur-
chased by Hamet that day, and that Horace be-
longed to an ill-looking old man, whose tent was
pitched in company. This old villain came near me,
and saluted me by the name of JRais, asking me the
ijame of his boy; (Horace) I told him it was Horace,
which after repeating a few times, he learned so per-
fectly, that at every instant he was yelling out
*' Hoh Rais'"' for something or other. Hamet was
of a much lighter colour than the other Arabs we
were with, and I thought he was less cruel, but in
this respect I found I was mistaken, for he made
myself and Hogan lie on the ground in a place he
chose, where the stones were very thick and baked
into the ground so tight that we could not pull them
out with our fingers, and we were forced to lie on
their sharp points, though at a small distance, not
more than fifty yards, was a spot of sand. This I
made him understand, (pointing at the same time to
my skinless flesh) but he signified to us that if we
did not remain where he had ordered, we should
get no milk when he milked the camels. I calculate
we travelled this day about thirty miles.
Here then we staid, but not to sleep, until about
the midnight hour, when Hamet came to us with our
milk — It was pure and warm from the camels ; and
about a pint for each. The wind blew as is usual in
the night, and on that part of the desart the air was
extremely cold and damp ; but its moisture on our
bodies was as salt as the ocean. Having received
our share of milk, when all was still in the tent.
S6 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
"we stole to the sandj place, where we got a little
sleep during the remaining part of the night. Ho-
Face's master would not permit him to come near
me, nor me to approach him, making use of a stick,
as well to enforce his commands in this particular,
as to teach us to understand him in other respects.
At daylight (Sept. 13th) we were called on to
proceed. The families struck their tents, and pack-
ed them an camels, together with all their stuff.
They made us walk and keep up with the camels,
though we were so stiff and sore all over that we
could scarcely refrain from crying out at every step:
such was our agony : — still pursuing our route to
the S. E. In the course of the morning, I saw Mr.
Wilhams ; he was mounted on a camel, as we had
all been the first day, and had been riding with the
drove about three hours — I hobbled alons: towards
him ; his camel stopped, and I was enabled to take
him by the hand — he was still entirely naked; his
skin had been burned off; his whole body was so
excessively inflamed and swelled, as well as his
lace, that I only knew him by his voice, which was
very feeble. He told me he had been obliged to
sleep naked in the open air every night; that his life
was fast wasting away amidst the most dreadful
torments ; that he could not live one day more in
such misery; that his mistress had taken pity on
feim, and anointed his body that morning with butter
or grease, but, said he, " I cannot live;" should you
ever get clear from this dreadful place, and be re-
stored to your country, tell my dear wife that my
%st breath was spent in prayers for her happiness*
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA- 8'7
he tould say no more ; tears and sobs choked his
utterance.
His master arrived at this time, and drove on hi&
camel, and I could only say to him, " God Almighty
bless you," as I took a last look at him, and forgot,
for a moment, while contemplating his extreme dis-
tress, my own misery. His camel was large, and
moved forward with very heavy motions; as he
went from me, I could see the inside of his legs and
thighs — they hung in strings of torn and chafed
flesh — the blood' was trickling down the sides of the
camel, and off his feet — " ray God !" I cried, " suffer
us not to live longer in such tortures."
" I had stopped about fifteen minutes, and my
master's camels had gained a great distance from
me, so that I was obliged to run that I might come
up with them. My mind was so shocked with the
distresses of Mr. Williams, that I thought it would
be impious for me to complain, though the sharp
stones continued to enter my sore feet at every step.
My master saw me, and stopped the drove for me to
come up ; when I got near him, he threatened me,
shaking his stick over my head, to let me know what
I had to expect if I dared to commit another fault.
He then rode off, ordering me and Hogan to drive
the camels on as fast as we could. About an hour
afterwards he came near us, and beckoned to me to
come to him, which I did. A tall old man, nearly as
black as a negro, one of the most ill-looking and
disgusting I had yet seen, soon joined my master,
with two young men, whom I found afterwards were
SS CAPTAIN RTLEY^S NARRATITE..
his sons — thej were also joinecj by a number more
on camels, and well armed.
After some time bartering about me, I was given to
the old man, whose features showed every sign of the
deepest rooted malignity in his disposition. And is
this my master, thought I ? Great God I defend me
from his cruelty ! He began to go on — he was on foot;
so were his two sons; but they walked faster than
camels, and the old man kept snarling at me in thd
most surly manner, to make mp keep up. I tried my
very best, as I was extremely anxious to please him, if
such a thing was possible, knowing the old adage of
"the devil is good when he is pleased," was correct,
when applied to human beings; but I could not go
fast enough for him ; so after he had growled and
kept on a considerable time, finding I could not keep
up with him, he came behind me and thrust me for-
ward with hard blows repeatedly applied to my ex-
posed back, with a stout stick he had in his hand.
Smarting and staggering under my wound, I made
the greatest efforts to get on, but one of his still more
inhuman sons, (as I then thought him) gave me a
double barrelled gun to carry, with his powder horo
and other accoutrements : they felt very heavy, yet
after I had taken them, the old man did not again
strike me, but went on towards the place where he
meant to pitch his tent, leaving me to follow on as
well as I could.
The face of the desart now appeared as smooth
as the surface of the ocean, when unruffled by winds
or tempests. Camels could be seen on every direi?-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 89
tion, as soon as tliey come above the horizon, so
that there was no difficulty in knowing which way to go,
and I took care to keep sight of my new master's
drove, until I reached the valley, in which he had
pitched his tent. I was broiling under the sun and
tugging along, with my load, which weighed me
down to the earth, and should have lain down des-
pairing, had I not seen Mr. Williams in a still worse
plight than myself.
Having come near the tent about four P. M. they
took the load from me, and bid me lie down in the
shade of the tent. I then begged for water, but
could get none. The time now came on for prayers,
and after the old man and his sons had performed
this ceremony very devoutly, they went away. I was
in so much pain, I could scarcely contain myself, and
my thirst was more painful than it had yet been.
I tried to soften the hearts of the women to get me
a little water, but they only laughed and spit at me ;
and to increase my distresses as much as they could,
drove me away from the shade of the tent, so that
I was forced to remain in the scorching sun for the
remainder of this long day.
A little after sunset my old and young masters re=
turned ; they were joined by all the men that were near,
to the number of from twenty to thirty, and went
through their religious ceremonies in a very solemn
manner, in which the women and little children did
not join them. Soon after this was over, Clark came
in with the camels and joined me ; it would have been
pleasant to be together, but his situation was such
that it made my heart-ache still worse than it did
N
9!D CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
before; he was nearly without a skin; every part of
his body exposed; his flesh excessively mangled, burnt
and inflamed. " I am glad to see you once more, sir,'*
said Clark, " for I cannot live through the approach-
ing night, and now beg of you, if you ever get to
our country again, to tell my brothers and sisters how
I perished." I comforted him all I could, and assured
him he would not die immediately ; that the nourish-
ment we now had, though very little, was sufficient
to keep us alive for a considerable time, and that
though our skins were roasted off and our flesh in-
flamed, we were yet alive without any signs of pu-
trefaction on our bodies ; that I had great hopes we
should all be carried in a few days from this desart
to where we might get some food to nourish us, and
as I had learned a little of the language of these
people, (or savages) I would keep trying to persuade
them that if they would carry us up the Moorish
dominions, I should be able to pay them a great ran-
som for all the crew; for an old man had told me
that as soon as it should rain they would journey to
the N. E. and sell us.
The night came on ; cold damp winds succeeded
to the heat of the day, and I begged of my old mas-
ter to be permitted to go under the corner of his
tent, (for it was a large one) and he seemed willing,
pointing out a place for us to lie down in, but the wo-
men would not consent, and we remained outside until
the men had milked the camels. They then gave us a
good drink of milk, near a quart each, and after the
women were asleep, one of my young masters,
pamed Omar, (the same that made me carry his gun
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 91
the preceding clay, to keep his father from beating
me) took pity on our distresses, and came and made
us creep under one corner of the tent, without
waking the women, where some soft sand served us
for a bed, and the tent kept off the cold air from usj
and here we slept soundly until morning. As soon
as the women awoke, and found us under the tent,
they were for thrusting us out with blows, but I
pretended to be asleep, and the old man looking on
lis, seemed somewhat concerned, fearing (as I thought)
he might lose his property. He told his women to
let us alone, and as he was absolute, they were
forced to obey him, though with every appearance x)^
reluctance.
After they had milked the camels, and took a
drink themselves, they gave us what remained,
that is to say, near a pint between us. They did not
move forward this way, and suffered us to remain
under the corner of the tent in the shade all the
while and the next night, and even gave us a piece
of a skin to cover us with in part, and keep off the
night wind. They gave us a good drink of milk when
they drank themselves on the second night, and Omar
had given us about a pint of water each, in the
middle of the day; so that the inflammation seemed to
have subsided in a great -degree from our flesh and
feet.
This attention, together with the two good nights*
rest, revived us very much — these were the 14th,
and 15th days of September. I had not seen any
of my unfortunate shipmates except Clark, and did
sot know whefe they were during the day we re-
92 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative.
maihed still. The camels were driven oil early in
the morning by a negro slave and two of the small
boys, and did not return until in the night — they
went out to the east to find shrubs for them to feed
on. Clark was obliged near night to go out and
pull up some dry thorn bush shrubs and roots to
make a fire with. At the return of the camels, the
negro slave (who was a stout fellow, named Boireck)
seated himself by the fire, stretching out his legs on
each side of it, and seeing us under the tent, thought
to drive us out; but as he was not permitted by our
old master, he contented himself by pointing at us
and making comparisons : then sneeringly address-
ing me by the name of Rias, or chief, w^ould set up
a loud laugh, which, with the waggery he displayed
in his remarks on us, kept the whole family and se-
veral strangers who had assembled on the occasion,
in a constant roar of laughter until midnight, the
hour for milking the camels. He would poke our
sore flesh with a sharp stick, to make sport, and show
the Arabs what miserable beings we were, who could
not even bear the rays of the sun (the image of God,
as they term it) to shine upon us.
Being tormented in this manner, my companion
Clark could scarcely contain his wrath: "it was bad'
enough, (he said) to be reduced to slavery by the
savage Arabs ; to be stripped, and skinned alive and
mangled, without being obfiged to bear the scoffs
and derision of a d d negro slave." I told him
I was very glad to find he still had so much spirits
left, and could feel as if he wished to revenge an
insult — it proved to me that he felt better than he
SUFFERINGS IN. AFRICA. 93
did the preceding night, and as I was so much re-
lieved myself, my hopes of being able to endure our
tortures and privations increased, adding, " let the
negro laugh if he can take any pleasure in it; I am
willing he should do so, even at my expense : he is
a poor slave himself, naked and destitute, far from
his family and friends, and is only trying to gain the
favour of his masters and mistresses, by making
sport of us, whom he considers as much inferior to
him as he is to them." Clark could not be recon-
ciled to this mode of mockery and sport, but the
negro kept it up as long as we remained with his
master, every night, and always had plenty of spec-
tators to admire his wit, and laugh at his tricks and
buffoonery. This reminded me gf the story of
Samson, when the Philistines wished to make sport
with him; he was blind, and they supposed him
harmless ; but he became so indignant, that he was
willing to suffer death to be revenged of them; the
difference was, he had strength to execute his will, —
we had not.
From the 15th to the I8th, we journeyed every
day to the S. E. about thirty miles a day, merely to
find a few shrubs in the small scattered valleys for
the camels, and consequently for the inhabitants to
subsist on. As we went on in that direction, the
valleys became less frequent and very shallow ; the
few thorn bushes they produced were very dry, and
no other shrubs to be found; the camels could not
fill their stomachs with the leaves and shrubs, nor
with all that they could crop off, though they pulled
away the branches as thick as a man's finger. The
94 CAPTAIN RILEY^S NARRATIVE.
milk began to fail, and consequently we had to Tdc
scanted, so that our allowance was reduced to half
a pint a day, and as all the water they had taken
from the well was expended, they could give us no
more of that preficus article. There was belong-
inof to tills tribe four mares that were the oreneral
property; they were very clear limbed, and very
lean; they fed them on milk every day, and every
one took his turn in giving them as much water
every two days as they would drink. These mares
drank up the last of our water on the 19th, nor
would my master allow me to drink what little was
left in the bowl, not exceeding half a pint, and it
was poured out as a drink otfering before the Lord,
while they prayed for rain, which indeed they had
reason to expect, as the season they knew was ap-
proaching, when some rain generally happens. I
supposed owr distance from the sea, or the well that
we had left, to be three hundred miles in a direct
line, and feared very much that we should not find
water at any other place. The sustenance we re-
ceived was just sufficient to keep the breath of life
in us, but our flesh was less infla^med than in the first
days, for we had continued to lie under a part of the
tent at night, and also in the day-time when it was
pitched, which was generally the case about two
o'clock in the afternoon. We had, however, become
so emaciated, that we could scarcely stand, and they
did not attempt to make me nor Clark do any kind of
work, except gather a few dry sticks, towards even-
img, to light a fire. The swellings had also gone
down ia some measure from our feet, as there was
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 95
not substance enough in us to keep up a running
sore ; all the moisture in them seemed to dry aAvay,
and we could support the prickings and cutting of
the stones better as we became lighter and more
inured to it. We had endeavoured to find some of
the kind of root that was met with near the sea
coast, but none could be procured. In every valley
we came to, the natives would run about and search
under every thorn bush, in hopes to find some herb,
for they were nearly as hungry as ourselves. In
some places a small plant was found, resembhng
what we call shepherd's sprout ; they were torn up
by them and devoured in an instant. I got one or
two, but they proved very bitter, and were impreg-
nated, in a considerable degree, with salt: these
plants were so rare as to be scarcely of any benefit.
There were also found by the natives, in particular
places, a small ground root, whose top showed itself
like a single short spear of grass, about three inches
above the ground ; they dug it up with a stick ; it
was of the size of a small walnut, and in shape very
much like an onion ; its taste fresh, without any
strong flavour; but it was very difficult to find, and
afforded us very little relief, as we could not «;et
more than half a dozen in a whole day's search* and
some davs none at all.
On the 19th of September, in the morning, the
tribe having held a council the night before, at which
I could observe my old master was looked up to as
a man of superior judgment and influence, they
began a route back again towards the sea, and the
well near which we were first made slaves; — this
9d CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
convinced me that no fresh water could be procured
nearer, and as the camels were almost dry, I much
feared that myself and my companions must perish
before we could reach it. I had been in the habit
every day since I was on the desart, of relieving my
excessive thirst by the disagreeable expedient before
mentioned ; but that resource now failed me for the
want of moisture, nor had any thing passed through
my body since the day I left the well. We had jour-
neyed for seven and a half days S. E. and I con-
cluded it would require the same time to return; but
on the 18th we steered N. E. and on the I9th we
took a N. W. direction, and in the course of the day
We entered a very small valley, where we found a
few little dwarf thorn bushes, not more than two
feet hiofh ; on these we found some snails, most of
which were dead and dry, but I got about a handful
that were alive, and when a fire was kindled, roasted
and ate them — Clark did the same, and as we did
not receive more than a gill of milk each in twenty-
four hours, this nourishment was very serviceable.
On the morning of the 20th we started, as soon
as it was light, and drove very fast all the day. We
had no other drink than the camels' urine, which we
caught in our hands as they voided it ; its taste was
bitter, but not salt, and it relieved our fainting spi-
rits. We were forced to keep up with the drove,
but in the course of the day found a handful of
snails each, which we at night roasted and ate. Our
feet, though not swollen, were extremely sore; our
bodies and limbs were nearly deprived of skin and
flesh, for we continually wasted away, and the little
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 97
fre had on our bones was dried hard, and stuck fast
to them. My head had now become accustomed to
the heat of the sun, and though it remained unco-
vered, it did not pain me. Hunger, that had preyed
upon my companions to such a degree as to cause
them to bite off the flesh from their arms, had not
the same effect on me. I was forced in one instance
to tie the arms of one of my men behind him, in
order to prevent his gnawing his own flesh ; and in
another instance, two of them having caught one of
the boys, a lad about four years old, out of sight of
the tents, were about dashing his brains out with a
stone, for the purpose of devouring his flesh, when
luckily at that instant I came up and rescued the
child, with some difficulty, from their voracity. They
were so frantic with hunger, as to insist upon having
one meal of his flesh, and then they said they would
be willing to die ; for they knew that not only them-
selves, but all the crew would be instantly massacred
as soon as the murder should be discovered. I con-
vinced them that it would be more manly to die with
hunger than to become cannibals and eat their own
or other human flesh, telling them, at the same time,
I did not doubt but our masters would give us sufii-
cient nourishment to keep us alive, until they could
sell us. On the 20th, we proceeded with much
speed towards the N. W. or sea shore ; but on the
21st, we did not go forward.
This day I met with Mr. Savage, Horace, Hogan,
and the cook ; their masters' tents were pitched near
ours ; they were so weak, emaciated and sore, that
they could scarcely stand, and had been carried on
o
98
the camels for the last few days. I was extremelj?
glad to see them, and spoke to all but Horace, whose
master drove me off with a stick one way, and
Horace another, yelling most horribly at the same
time and laying it on Horace's back with great fury.
I soon returned to our tent, and felt very much
dejected; they all thought they could not live another
day — there w ere no snails to be found here, and we
had ret one drop of milk or water lo drink. Horace^
Ho^an, and the cook were employed in attending their
masters' camels, in company with one or two Arabs,
Afho kept flogging them nearly the whole of the time.
My old master did not employ me or Clark in the
same way, because he had two negro slaves to do
that work; he was a rich man among them, and owned
from sixty to seventy camels; he was also a kind of
priest, for every evening he was joined, in his devo-
tions, by all the old and most of the young men
near his tent. They all first washed themselves witb
sand in place of water ; then wrapping themselvea
up with their strip of cloth and turning their faces
to the east, my old master stepped out before them,
and commenced by bowing twice, repeating at each
time "./?//aA Houakibar i'"' then kneeling and hewing
his head to the ground twice; then raising himself up
on his feet, and repeating, " HielMah ShedaMoho^ned
Rahsool Allahy bowins: himself twice; and a^ain
prostrating himself on the earth as many times, then
" Jjllah Houakibar''' was three times repeated. He
was always accompanied in his motions and words
by all present who could see him distinctly, as he
stood before them. He would then make a long
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. ft9
prayer, and they recited altogether what I afterwards
found to be a chapter in the Koran ; and then all
joined in chaunting or singing some hymn or sacred
poetry for a considerable time. This ceremony being
finished, they again prostrated themselves with their
faces to the earth, and the service concluded.
About the middle of this day two strangers
arrived, riding two camels loaded with goods: they
came in front of my master's tent, and having made
the camels lie down, they dismounted, and seat-
ed themselves on the ground opposite the tent,
with their faces turned the other way. There were
in this valley six tents, besides that of my masters.
CHAP. IX.
Two Arabian merchants are persuaded by the author to
purchase him and four of his suffering companions —
they kill a camel, and prepare to set out for Mo'
rocco across the Desart.
All the men had gone out a hunting on their
camels, carrying their arms with them ; that is to say,
seeking for plunder as I concluded. My old and
young mistresses went to see the strangers ; they
had no water to carry, as is customary, but took
with them a large skin, with a roll of tent cloth to
make them a shelter; the strangers rose as the women
drew near, and saluted them by the words " LabeZj
Labez-Salem; Lahez-Alikom i^^ peace, peace be with
100 CAPTAIN RILEY-S NARRATIVE.
you, &LC. and the women returned these salutations
in similar words. They next ran to our tent, and
took a couple of sticks, with the help of which and the
skin and tent cloth, they soon made an awning for the
strangers. This done, they took the bundles which
were on the camels, and placed them in this tenU
with the saddles and all the other things the stran-
gers had brought. The two strangers had a couple
of skins that contained water, which the women hung
up on a frame they carried from our tent.
During the whole time the v/omen were thus
employed, the strangers remained seated on the
ground beside their guns, for they had each a
double barrelled musket, and so bright, that they
glittered in the sun like silver. The women having
finished their attentions, seated themselves near the
strangers, and made inquiries, as near as I could com-
prehend, by saying, "> where did you come from f
what goods have you got ? how long have you been
on your journey .'*" &c. Having satisfied their curi-
osity on these points, they next came to me, and the
old woman (in whom as yet I had not discovered one
spark of pity) told me that Sidi Hamet had come
with blankets and blue cloth to sell ; that he came
from the Sultan's dominions, and that he could buy
me and carry me there, if he chose, where I might
find my friends, and kiss my wife and children.
Before my master returned I went to the tent of
Sidi Hamet, with a wooden bowl, and begged for
some water; showing my mouth, which was ex-
tremely parched and stiff, so much so, that I could
xvith difficulty speak. He looked at me, and asked
'' ■ - J
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 101
il i was el Rais (the captain). I nodded assent; he
told his brother, who was with him, to give me some
water, but thi^ his benevolent brother w^ould not
condescend to do; so taking the bowl himself, he
poured into it near a quart of clear water, saying,
''Sherub Rias" — that is, drink, captain, or chief.
I drank about half of it, and after thanking him and
imploring the blessing of Heaven upon him for his
humanity, I was going to take the rest of it to our
tent, where Clark lay stretched out on his back,
a perfect wreck of almost naked bones ; his belly
and back nearly collapsed, and breathing like a
person in the last agonies of death: but Sidi Ha-
met would not permit me to carry the water away,
bidding me drink it myself I pointed out to him my
distressed companion ; this excited his pity, and he
sutfered me to give Clark the remainder.
The water was perfectly fresh, and revived him
exceedingly ; it was a cordial to his desponding soul,
beinor the first fresh water either of us had tasted
since we left the boat ; his eyes that were sunk deep
in their sockets, brightened up — " this is good water,
(said he) and must have come from a better country
than this ; if we were once there, (added he) and I
could get one good drink of such water, I could die
with pleasure, but now I cannot live another day." Our
masters soon returned, and began, with others of the
tribe, who had received the news of the arrival of
strangers, to form circles, and chat with them and each
other ; this continued till night, and I presume there
were at least two hundred men present. After dark
they began to separate, and by 10 o'clock at night
Vone remained but my old master's family, and three
102 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVC.
or four of their relations, at our tent. On thi«
occasion we were turned out into the open air, and
were obhged to pass the night without any shelter
or covering. It was a long and tedious night ; but
at the time of milking the camels, our old master
coming to us, as if afraid of losing his property by
our death, and anxious we should live, dealt out about
a pint of milk to each ; this milk tasted better thaa
any I had yet drank ; it was a sweet and seasonable
relief, and saved poor Clark from dissolution.
This was the first nourishment of any kind our
master had given us in three days, and I concluded
from this circumstance that he had hopes of selling
us to the strangers. The next morning Sidi Hamet
came towards the tent, and beckoned me to come
there ; he was at a considerable distance, and I
tnade the best of my way to him; here he bade me
sit down on the ground. I had by this time learned
many words in their language, which is ancient
Arabic, and could understand the general current
of their conversation, by paying strict attention
to it.
He now began to question me about Ojiy country,
and the manner in which I had come here — I made
him understand that I was an Englishman, and that
my vessel and crew were of the same nation — I
found he had heard of that country, and I stated as
well as I could the manner of my shipwreck — told him
we were reduced to the lowest depth of misery;
that I had a wife and five children in my own country,
besides Horace, whom I called my eldest son, ming-
ling with my story sighs and tears, and sM the signs
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 103
of affection and despair which these recollectionfe
and my present situation naturally called forth.
I found him to be a very intelligent and feeling
man — for although he know no language but the
Arabic, he comprehended so well what I wished to
communicate, that he actually shed tears at the
recital of my distresses, notwithstanding that,
among the Arabs, weeping is regarded as awomanisli
weakness. He seemed to be ashamed of his own
want of fortitude, and said that men who had beards
like him, ought not to shed tears ; and he retired,
wiping his eyes.
Finding I had awakened his sympathy, I thought
if I could rouse his interest by large offers of money,
he might buy me and my companions, and carry us
up from the desart-^ — so accordingly the first time I
saw him alone, I went to him and begged him to buy
me, and carry me to the sultan of Morocco or
Marocksh, where I could find a friend to redeem
me. He said no, but he would carry me to Swearah,
describing it as a walled town and seaport. I told
him I had seen the sultan, and that he was a friend
to my nation. He then asked me many other ques-
tions about Mohammed Rassool— I bowed and point-
ed to the east, then towards heaven, as if I thought
he had ascended there: this seemed to please him,
and he asked me how much money I would give him
to carry me up; upon which I counted over fifty
pieces of stones, signifying I would give as many
dollars for myself and eacR of my men. " I will not
buy the others," said he, " but how much more than
fifty dollars will you give me for yourself, if I buy
104 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
you and carry you to your friends ?" I told him one.
hundred dollars. " Have you any money in Sive-
arah,^'' asked he by signs and words, " or do you
mean to make me wait till you get it from your coun-
try ?" I replied that my friend in Swearah would
give him the money so soon as he brought me there.
" You are deceiving me," said he. I made the most
solemn protestations of my sincerity: — "I will buy
you then," said he, " but remember, if you deceive
me, I will cut your throat," (making a motion to that
effect.) This I assented to, and begged of him to
buy my son Horace also, but he would not hear a
word about any of my companions, as it would be
impossible, he said, to get them up off the desart,
which was a great distance. " Say nothing about it
to your old master," signified he to me, " nor to my
brother, or any of the others." He then left me,
and I went out to seek for snails to relieve my hun-
ger. I saw Mr. Savage and Hogan, and brought
them with Clark near Sidi Hamet's tent, where we
sat down on the around. He came out to see us,
miserable objects as we were, and seemed very
much shocked at the sight. I told my companions
I had great hopes we should be bought by this man
and carried up to the cultivated country — but they
expressed great fears that they would be left be-
hind. Sidi Hamet asked me many questions about
my men — wished to know if any of them had died,
and if they had wives and children. I tried all I
could to interest him in ttieir behalf, as well as my
own, and mentioned to him my son, whom he had
not vet seen. J. found my companion^ had been verj
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 10.5
much stinted in milk as well as mjself, and that they
had no water, — they had found a few snails, which
kept them alive ; but even these now failed.
The 24th, we journeyed on towards the N. W.
all day — the whole tribe, or nearly so, in company,
and the strangers also kept in company with us.
When my mistress pitched her tent near night, she
made up one for Sidi Hamet also. I begged of him
on my knees every time I had an opportunity, for
him to buy me and my companions, and on the 25th
I had the happiness to see him pay my old master
for me : he gave him two blankets or coarse hoicks,
one blue cotton covering, and a bundle of ostrich
feathers, with which the old man seemed much
pleased, as he had now three suits of clothing.
They were along time in making the bargain.
This day Horace came with his master to fetch
s'omething to our tent; at his approach, I went to
meet him, and embraced him with tears. Sidi
Hamet was then fully convinced that he was my son.
I had found a few snails this morning, and divided
them between Mr. Savage and Horace before Sidi
Hamet, who signified to me in the afternoon that he
intended to set out with me in two days for Swea-
rah; that he had tried to buy my son, but could not
succeed, for his master would not sell him at any
price : then said T, " let me stay in his place ; I will
be a faithful slave to his master as long as I live —
carry him up to Swearah; my friend will pay you
for him, and send liim home to his mother, wbcm I
cannot see unless I bring her son with rn^l^:^; Ton
shall have your son, by Allah,"- iSaid !^f "Hiimet-,
p
106 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
The whole tribe was gathered In council, r.nd I sup-
posed relative to this business. In the course of the
afternoon they debated the matter over, and seemed
to turn it every way: — they fought besides three or
four battles with fists and scimitars, in their warnr
and loud discussions in settling individual disputes;
but in the evening I was told that Horace was
bouirht, as the tribe in council had forced his master
to sell hira, though at a great price. I now redou-
bled my entreaties with my new master to buy Mr.
Savage and Clark, telling him that I would give him
a large sum of money if he got us up safe ; but he
told me he should be obliged to carry us through
bands of robbers, who would kill him for our sakes,
and that his company was not strong enough to resist
them by force of arms — I fell down on my knees,
and implored him to buy Mr. Savage and Clark at
any rate, thinking if he should buy them, he might
be induced to purchase the remaining part of the
crew.
My mind had been so busily employed in schemes
of redemption, as almost to forget my suiFerings
since Sidi Hamet had bought me. He had given me
two or three drinks of water, and had begged milk
for me of my former master. On the morning of
the 26th, I renewed my entreaties for him to pur-
chase Mr. Savage, Clark, and Hogan — the others I
had not seen since the second or third day after we
were in the hands of the Arabs. I did not know
where they were, and consequently could not desig-
nate them to my master Hamet, though I told him
nir their names. Mr. Savan;e and Hogan looked
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 107
much more healthy and hkely to Hve than Clark,
and Sidi Hamet insisted that it was impossible that
Clark could live more than three days, and that if
lie bought him, he should lose his money. I told
him no, he shoulcj.not lose his money, for whether
he lived or died, I would pay him the same amount.
Clark was afflicted with the scalded head, render-
ed a raw sore in consequence of his sufferings, and
his hair, which was very lopg, was, of course, in a very
filthy condition ; this attracted the attention of Sidi
Hamet and his brother, the latter of whom was a
very surly and cross-looking fellow. They poked
the hair and scabs open with their sticks, and de-
manded to know what was the occasion of that filthy
appearance. Clark assured them, that it was in
consequence of his exposure to the sun, and as that
was the reason I had assigned for the horrible sores
and blisters that covered our scorched bodies and
half-roasted flesh ; they said, it might possibly be so,
but asked why the heads of the rest of us were not
in the same state. They next found^ fault with ray
shins, which had been a long time very sore, and
they examined every bone to see if all was right in
its place, with the same cautious circumspections
that a jockey would use, who was about buying a
horse, while we, poor trembling wretches, strove
with all possible care and anxiety to hide every fault
and infirmity in us, occasioned by our dreadful ca-
lamities and cruel sufferingrs.
Sidi Hamet informed me this day, that he had
bought Mr. Savage and Clark, and had bargained
for Hogan, and that he was going to kill a camel
108 OAPTAm riley's narrative.
that night for provisions on our journey. Our water
had been expended for two days, and all the fami-
lies around us were also destitute. I did not get more
than a gill of milk in twenty-four hours, and a small
handful of snails — these served in a little deo^ree to
support nature, and I waited with the greatest im-
patience for the kiUing of the camel which had been
promised, hoping to have a meal of meat once more
before I died. Clark and I had been busy all the
afternoon in gathering dry sticks to make a fire, and
a little after midnight my master came to me and
showed me where to carry the wood we had col-
lected; it was in a little gulley, that it might not be
seen by our neighbours, whilst our former master
and two present ones were leading a camel up to
the same, place. This camel, on its arrival, they
made lie down in the usual manner : it was a very
old one, and so poor, that he had not been able to
keep pace with the drove during the journey, and
Sidi Hamet told me he had bought him for one
blanket.
The camel being down, they put a rope round
his under jaw, with a noose in it; then hauling his
head round on the left side, made the rope fast to his
tail, close up to his body; his neck was so long, that
the under jaw reached within six inches of the tail :
they then brought a copper kettle that would con-
tain probably three gallons. Thus prepared, Sidi
Hamet cut open a vein on the right side of the
camel's neck, close to his breast; the blood streamed
out into the kettle, and soon filled it half full;, this
they set over the fire and boiled, stirring it all the
StlFFERIXGS IN AFRICA. ]09
VJine with a stick until it became thick, and of the
consistence of a beef's hver; then taking it off the
fire, they passed it to me, saying, " coole, Riley,"
(eat, Riley.) I did not wait for a second bidding,
but fell to, together with Clark : our appetites were
voracious, and we soon filled our stomachs with this,
to us, delicious food.
Notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, and
the privacy observed in killing this meagre camel,
many of our hungry neighbours had found it out,
and came to assist in the dressing and eating of the
animal. They insisted on having some of the blood,
and would snatch out a handful in spite of all our
masters could do to hinder them ; they were then
very officious in assisting to take off the hide, which
was soon done, and the entrails were rolled out;
they next proceeded to put all the small entrails into
the kettle, without cleaning them of their contents,
together with what remained of the Hver and lights;
but they had no water to boil them in. Then one
of them went to the camel's paunch, which was very
large, and cutting a slit in the top of it, dipped out
some water in a bowl, thick with the camel's excre-
ment : this they poured into the kettle, and set it a
boiling, stirring it round, and now and then taking
out a gut, and biting off an end to ascertain whether
it was cooked enough. During this time, half a
dozen hungry wretches were at work on the camel,
which they would not leave under pretence of friend-
ship for our masters, for they would not suffer
strangers to work, when in their company, and it
being dark, they managed to steal and convey away,
110 CAPTAlX RILEy's NARRATIVE.
before morning, more than one-half of the carael*^
bones and meat, with half his skin. Our masters
were as hungry as any of the Arabs, yet though
fhey had bought the came], they could scarcely get
a bite of the intestines without fighting for it ; for
what title or argument can prevail against the vora-
cious appetite of a half-starved man } Though our
masters saw the natives in the very act of stealing
and carrying off their meat, they could not prevent
them, fearing worse consequences than losing it ; it
being a standing maxim among the Arabs to feed
\\ie hungry if in their power, and give them drink,
even if the owner of the provisions be obliged to
rob himself and his own family to do it.
Notwithstanding the boiled blood we had eaten
was perfectly fresh, yet our thirst seemed to increase
in consequence of it. As soon as daylight appeared,
a boy of from fourteen to sixteen years old came
running up to the camel's paunch, and thrusting his
liead into it up to his shoulders, began to di'ink of its
contents; my master observing him, and seeing that
my mouth was very dry, made signs for me to go
and pull the boy away, alid drink myself; this I soon
did, putting my head in like manner into the
paunch; the liquid was very thick, but though its
ta&te was exceedingly strong, yet it was not salt, and
allayed ray thirst: Clark next took a drink of the
s-ame fluid.
This morning we were busied in cutting off thfe
nttle flesh that remained on the bones of our camel,
spreading it out to dry, and roasting the bones on the
^re for our masters, who cracking them between
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. Ill
two stones, then sucked out the marrow and juices.
Near noon, Horace was brought where I was; he
was very hungry and thirsty, and said he had not
ate any thing of consequence for the last three days.
Our common master said to me, " this is your son
Rais," and seemed extremely glad that he had been
able to purchase him, giving him some of the entrails
and meat he had boiled and saved for the purpose. I
in my turn gave him some of our thick camel's water,
wdiich he found to be delicious; so true it is, that
hunger and thirst give a zest to eYerj thing. Burns
was brought up soon after, and my master asked
me if he was one of my men; I told him he was:
" his master wants to sell him," said Sidi Hamet,
" but he is old and good for nothing," added he ;
" but I can buy h'rr: foi this blanket," showing me
a very poor old one — I said, " buy him, he is my
countryman, I will repay you as much lor hun as for
the others :" — so he went out, and bought him from
his master, and then gave him something to eat
Poor Burns was much rejoiced to find there was a
prospect of recovering his liberty, or at least of get-
ting where he might procure something to eat and
drink. During this day, the natives flocked round in
great numbers, men, women, and children, and what
with begging and stealing reduced our stock of meat
to less than fifteen pounds before night.
Sidi Hamet now told me that he had bought
Hogan : this was in the afternoon, and he came to
us. I congratulated him on our favourable pros-
pects, and our master gave him something to eat;
but his former master, Hamet, now demanded one
112 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
blanket more for him than had been agreed on, as
he was a stout fellow : my master would not be im-
posed upon, nor had he indeed a blanket left. I
begged very hard for poor Hogan, but it was to no
purpose, and his old master drove him off, laying on
his back with a stick most unmercifully. Hamet's
eyes seemed fairly to flash fire as he went from us.
Hogan's hopes had been raised to a high pitch —
they were now blasted, and he driven back like a
criminal before his brutal owner, to his former mise-
rable abode. He had informed me that he had
never as yet, since our captivity, known what it was
to sleep under the cover of a tent; that his allowance
of milk had been so scant, that he did not doubt but
he must have died with hunger in a day or two —
he was extremely wasted and sore on every side.
My heart bled for him when I saw the blows fall on
his emaciated and mangled frame, but I could not
assist him, and all I could do was to turn round and
hide my face, so as not to witness his further tor-
tures.
This day was employed in preparing for our
departure — our masters madie me a pair of sandals
with two thickness of the camel's skin ; they also
made Horace a pair in the same manner, but Clark
and Burns were fitted with single ones; they bad in
the morninsf o-iven me a small knife, which I huno;
to my neck in a case : this they meant as a mark of
confidence ; and they also gave me charge of their
stuff, the camels, and the slaves. I soon perceived,
however, that although I had this kind of command,
yet I was obliged to do all the work. Mv men were
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 113
St) far exhausted, that even the hope of soon obtain-
ing their hberty, could scarcely animate them to the
least exertion.
In tlie evening Sidi Haraet told me, .^aron (Mr.
Savage) would be with us by and by : — that we
should start in the morning for Swearah, and that he
hoped, through the blessing of God, I should once
more embrace my family ; he then told me how much
he had paid for each one of us — that he had ex-
pended all his property, and that if I had not told
him the truth, he was a ruined man — that his
brother was a bad man, and had done all he could to
prevent his buying us, but that he had at last con-
sented to it, and taken a share.
He next made me repeat, before his brother, my
promises to him when we should arrive at Swearah,
and my agreement to have my throat cut if my
words did not prove true. Late in the evening Mr.
Savage joined us — he knew before that I was going
to set out, and thought he should be left behind — he
was very thankful to be undeceived in tl^is particular,
and to get, at the same time, something to eat, for
Sidi Hamet had saved some of the camel's intes-
tines, which he immediately gave him.
After having satisfied his hunger in some mea-
sure, he began to express his doubts as to where we
were going; declaring, that he did not believe a
word these wretches said : — he could not understand
them, and said he did not believe I could; and
suggested a hundred doubts and difficulties on the
subject, that his ill-boding imagination supplied him
with: he did not like the price I had agreed to
Q
X14 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
give for our liberty, — it was too much, and I should
find no body willing to advance it for me, as I was
poor. ^
We had started what water remained in the
paunch of the camel, thick as it was, into a goat
skin, straining it through our fingers to keep out the
thickest of the filth. The night of the 27th, as near
as we could keep count by marking the day of the
month on our legs with a thorn, we passed in the
open air, five of us together.
At daylight on the morning of the 28'th, we were
called up and made to load our camels. I had strong
hopes we were going to ride, but it now appeared
not to be the case. All the Arabs in the valley set
out in the morning with their camels, to drive them
to water — they had not been watered since the 10th,
having gone without any for eighteen days. They
were now at least two days' journey from the well,
where we had first been seized, towards which they
now steered, in a N. W. direction. I mention this cir-
cumstance, to show the time these wonderful animals
can live without drink, and supply their masters with
milk, even when nearly destitute of vegetable sub-
stances ; and with water from their paunches after
death.
Soon after sunrise, our masters bade us drive the
camels, up the bank; at this moment Archibald
Robins came with his master to see us, and I sup-
posed his master had brought him with a view of sel-
ling him. I had not before seen him for fourteen days,
and he had only arrived soon enough to witness our
departure — I now on my knees begged, as I had
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 115
(lone before of Sidi Hamet, to purchase him ; but he
said he could not, and so hurried us on.
I told Robbins what my present hopes were, and
liiat if I should succeed in getting clear, I would us6
my utmost endeavours to procure his and the rest of
the crew's redemption. I begged him to continue as
long as he could with his present master, who, for
an Arab, appeared to be a very good man ; and to
encourage Mr. Williams and all the others to bear
up with fortitude, and support hfe as long as it was
possible, in the hope that, through my help or some
other means, they might obtain their redemption in
a short time ; and having taken my leave of him
in the most affectionate manner, (in which my com-
panions followed the example) we set out on our
journey, but with heavy hearts, occasioned by the
bitter regret we felt at leaving our fellow sufferers
behind, although I had done all in my power to
make them partakers of our better fortuBe.
CHAP. X.
7%e author and four of his companions set out to cross
the Desart — their sufferings — they come to a spring
of fresh water — description of its singular situation.
From the time I was sold to Sidi Hamet, my old
master and his family shunned me as they would a
pestilence; and the old villain actually stole one
piece of our meat from me, or rather robbed me of
it just as we were setting out; for he cut it off the
Il6 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATlVvE.
string by which it was tied to the camel, in spite of
mj efforts to prevent him. Our masters were ac-
companied for a considerable distance by several
men and women, who were talking and taking leave,
going on very slowly. We were ordered to keep
their camels together,which I thought I did; yet when
they were finally ready to depart, they found their
big camel had marched offagreat distance, probably
two miles from us, following a drove of camels
going to the N. W. Sidi Hamet bade me fetch him
back — pointing him out : notwithstanding my weak
and exhausted state, I \vas obliged to run a great
way to come up with him, but my rising spirits sup-
ported me, and I succeeded in bringing him back.,
where the other camels were collected by my ship=
mates.
Sidi Hamet and Seid had two old camels on
which they had rode, and they had bought also a
young one that had not been broke for riding. We
were joined here by a young Arab named Jibdallah:
he had been Mr. Savage's master and owned a camel,
and a couple of goat skins to carry water in ; but
these, as well as those of our masters were entirely
empty. Sidi Hamet had a kind of a pack saddle
for each of his old camels; but nothing to cover
the bones of his young ones. Having fitted them
as well as he could, (for he seemed to be humane)
he placed Mr. Savage, Burns, and Horace, on the
big one, and myself and Clark on the other old
one. Seid and Abdallah took their seats on the one
which belonged to Abdallah, and Sidi Hamet mount-
ed the young one himself to break him, sitting
behind the hump on his bare back; and thus ar-
BUFFERINGS IN AFRI*JAo 117
i-anged and equipped, we set off on a full and long
stridins: trot. It was about nine A. M. when we
had mounted ; and this trot had continued for about
three hours, when we stopped a few minutes in a
little valley to adjust our saddles. Here Sidi Hamet
pulled out a check shirt from one of his bags and
gave it me, declaring he had stolen it, and had
tried to get another for Horace, but had not been
able: "put it on," said he, "your poor back needs a
covering;" (it being then one entire sore.) I kissed
his hand in gratitude, and thanked him and my
Heavenly Father for this mercy. Clark, a day or
two before, had got a piece of an old sail, that
partly covered him — Burns had an old jacket, and
Horace and Mr. Savage, a small goat skin added to
their dress — so that we were all, comparatively,
comfortably clad. We did not stop here long, but
mounted again, and proceeded on our course to the
E. S, E. on a full trot, which was continued till
night ; when, coming to a little valley, we found some
thorn bushes and halted for the night.
Here we kindled a fire, and our masters gave us a
few mouthfuls of the camel's meat, which we roasted
and ate. As we had drank no water for the last
three days, except a very little of what we had taken
from the camel's paunch, and which was now redu-
ced to about four quarts, we, as well as our masters,
suffered exceedingly for the want of it, and it was
thereupon determined to make an equal distribu-
tion of it among the whole party ; which was accord-
ingly done with an impartial hand. This we, poor suf-
ferers, made out to swallow, foul and ropy as it was,
118 CAPTAIN RJLEy's NARRATiyE.
and it considerably relieved our parched throats j
and then, finding a good shelter under a thornbush»
notwithstanding our unabated pains we got a tol-
erable night's sleep. We had travelled this day
steady at a long trot, at a rate, I judged, of between
seven and eight miles an hour ; making a distance of
sixty-three miles at the lowest computation. Before
daylight in the morning of the 28th, we were cal-
led up and mounted on the camels as before, and we
set oif on the long trot, on the same course, i. e. E. S,
E. as on the preceding day.
The same smooth hard surface continued, with
BOW and then a little break, occasioned by the
naked heads of rocks just rising above the plain,
and forming, in some places, small ledges. Near
one of these, we alighted a few minutes about noon^
for our masters to perform their devotions ; and we
allayed our thirst by diinking some of the camels'
urine, which we caught in our hands : our masters
did the same, and told me it was good for our
stomachs. The camels took very long steps, and
their motions being heavy, our legs, unsupported by
stirrups or any thing else, would fly backwards and
forwards, chafing across their hard ribs at every
step ; nor was it possible for us to prevent it, so that
the remaining flesh on our posteriors, and inside of
Gur thighs and legs was so beat, and literally pound-
ed to pieces, that scarcely any remained on our bones;
which felt as if they had been thrown out of their
sockets, by the continual and sudden jerks they ex-
perienced during this longest of days. It seemed to
me as though the sun would never go dpwn, afnd
Sl>rrEIllNGS IN AFRICA. 119
when at last it did, our masters had not yet found
a place to lodge in ; for they wished, if possible, to
find a spot where a few shrubs were growing, in order
that the camels might browse a little during the
night. They stopped at last after dark in a very
small valley, for they could find no better place ;
here they kindled a little fire, and gave us about a
pound of meat between us, which we greedily de-
voured, and then allayed our thirst in a similar man-
ner as before mentioned.
We had started before daylight this morning, and
had made but one stop of about fifteen minutes in
the course of the whole day until dark night, having
traveHed at least fifteen hours, and at the rate of
seven miles the hour, making one hundred and five
miles. Here in ourbarebone and mangled state, we
were forced to lie on the naked ground, without the
smallest shelter from the wind, which blew a violent
gale all night from the north — suffering in addition
to the cold, the cravings of hunger and thirst, and
the most excruciating pains in our limbs and nume-
rous sores ; nor could either of us close our eyes to
sleep ; and I cannot imagine that the tortures of the
rack can exceed, nor indeed hardly equal, those -we
experienced this night. Sidi Hamet and his two
companions, who had been accustomed to ride in this
manner, thought nothing of it; nor did they even
appear to be fatigued ; but when I showed him my
sores in the morning, and the situation of my ship-
mates, he was much distressed, and feared we would
not live. He told me we should come to good water
120 CAPTAIN RIX.EY*S NARRATIV^.
soon, when we might drink as much as we wanted
of it, and after that he would not travel so fast.
We were placed on our camels soon after day-
light, (this was the 29th), having nothing to eat,
and drinking a little camel's water, which we pre-
ferred to our own : its taste, as I before observed,
though bitter, was not salt; and they void it but
seldom in this dry and thirsty country. Proceed-
ing on our journey at a long trot, about nine o'clock
in the morning, we discovered before us what
seemed like high land, as we were seated on the
camels ; but on our approach, it proved to be the
opposite bank of what appeared once to have been
a river or arm of the sea, though its bed was now
dry. At about 10 o'clock, we came to the bank
nearest us ; it was very steep, and four or five hun-
dred feet deep, and in most places perpendicular or
-overhanging. These banks must have been washed
at some former period, either by the sea or a river;
which river, if it was one, does not now exist.
After considerable search, our masters found a place
where our camels could descend into it, and having
first dismounted and made us do the same, we drove
them down. When we had descended the most
difficult part of the bank, Seid and Abdallah went
forward (with their guns) to search for a spring of
fresh water, which Sidi Hamet told me was not very
iar distant. He now made me walk along with him,
and let the others drive on the camels slowly after
us ; for they, as well as ourselves, were nearly ex*
bausted. He then asked me a great many ques-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. }%l
.tions respecting my country, myself and family; and
whether I had any property at home ; if I had beeu
At Swearah, and if I told him the truth concerning
my having a friend there, who would pay money for
me ? He said also, that both himself and his brother
had parted with all their property to purchase us,
and wished me to be candid with him, for he was
" my friend." " God (said he) Avill deal with you,
as you deal with me." I persisted in asserting that
I had a friend at Swearah, who would advance any
sum of money I needed, and answered his other
questions as w^ell as I was able ; evading some I did
not choose to answer, pretending I did not under-
stand them. " Will you buy Clark and Burns ? (said
he) they are good for nothing." They certainly
did look worse, if possible, than the rest of us. I
told him they were my countrymen, and my bro-
thers, and that he might depend upon it I would
ransom them, if he would carry us to the empire of
Morocco and to the Sultan. " No, (said he) the»
Sultan will not pay for you, but I will carry you to
Swearah, to your friend ; what is his name ?" Con-
sul," said I. It seemed to please him to hear me
name my friend so readily ; and after teaching me
to count in Arabic, and by my fingers, up to twenty,
(which was ashreen) he told me I must give him two
hundred dollars for myself, two hundred dollars for
Horace, and for the others I must pay one hundred
dollars each; showing me seven dollars he had
about him, to be certain that we understood each
other perfectly; and he next made me understand
tliat I must pay for our provisions on the road, over
R
122 CAPTAIN RILtEy's NARRATIVE.
and above this sum. He then made me point out
the way to Swearah, which I was enabled to do bj
the sun and trade wind, making it about N. E.
" Now, (said he) if you will agree before God the
most High, to pay what I have stated, in money, and
give me a double-barrelled gun, I will take you up
to Swearah ; if not, I will carry you off that way,"
pointing to the S. E. " and sell you for as much as I
can get, sooner than carry you up across this long
desart, where we must risk our lives every day for
your sakes ; and if you cannot comply with your
agreement, and we get there safe, we must cut your
throat, and sell your comrades for what they will
luring." I assured him that I had told him the truths
and called God to witness the sincerity of my inten-
tions, not in the least doubting if I could once ar-
rive there, I should find some one able and willing
to pay the sum they demanded. " You shall go to
Swearah, (said he, taking me by the hand) if God
please." He then showed oie the broken pieces of
my watch, and a plated candlestick, which he said
he had bought from some person who had come from
the wreck of my vessel. The candlestick had be-
lonjied to Mr. WiUiams — he said he bousjht the ar-
cs o
tides before he saw me, and wished to know what
they were worth in Swearah : I satisfied him as well
as I could on this point. During this conversation
we kept walking on about east, as the bed of the
river ran near the northern bank, which was very
high, and Sidi Hamet looked at me as if his eye
would pierce my very soul, to ascertain the secrets
of my heart, and discover whether 1 was deceiving
SUFFERINGS JN AFRItA. 123
him or not; and he became satisfied that I was
sincere.
By this time, we had arrived nearly opposite the
place where he calculated the spring was, and his
brother and Abdallah, being not far oif, he hailed
them to know if they had found it; to which they
answered in the negative. After searching about
an hour in the bank, he discovered it, and calling
to me, for I was below, bade me come up to where
he was, at the foot of a perpendicular cliff — I clam-
bered up over the fragments of great rocks that had
fallen down from above, as fast as my strength would
permit, and having reached the spot, and seeing no
signs of water, the tears flowed fast down my
cheeks, for I concluded the spring was dried up, and
that we must now inevitably perish. Sidi Hamet
looked at me, and saw my tears of despair — " look
down there, said he, (pointing through a fissure in
the rock,) I looked and saw water, but the cleft was
too narrow to admit of a passage to it ; then show-
ing me another place, 'about ten or fifteen yards
distant, where I could get down, to another small
spring — " Slierub Riley, (said he) it is sweet." I
soon reached it, and found it sweet indeed ; and
taking a copious draught, I called my companions,
vvho scrambled along on their way up, exclaiming with
great eagerness, " where is the water ? for God's
sake ! where is it? Oh, is it sweet?" I showed it to
them, and they were soon convinced of the joyful
fact. This water was as clear and as sweet as any
I had ever tasted.
124 CAPTAIN RlLEil's NARRATIVE.
Sidi Hamet now allowed us to drink our fill, while
Seid and Abdallah were driving the four camels up
the bank bj a zig-zag kind of a foot way, from which
the stones and other impediments had been before
removed, apparently with great trouble and labour.
This spring, the most singular perhaps in nature,
•was covered with large rocks, fifteen to twenty feet
high, only leaving a narrow crooked passage next
the high bank behind it, by which a common sized
man might descend to get at it. It might contain, I
should calculate, not more than fifty gallons of
water; cool, clear, fresh, and sweet, and I presume
it communicated with the one that was first shown
me between the rocks, which was much smaller.
The camels had been driven to within fifty yards
below the spring; our masters then took off the
large bowl which they carried for the purpose of
watering the camels : then bringing a goat skin near
the spring, made me fill it with the water, my three
shipmates passing it up to me in the bowl — I kept
admonishing my companions to drink with modera-
tion, but at the same time I myself continued to take
in large draughts of this delicious water, without
knowing when to stop; in consequence of which I
was seized with violent pains in my bowels, but
soon found relief.
It was here that I had an opportunity of ascer-
taining the quantity of water which a camel could
drink at one draught. We filled a large goat skin
fifteen times, containing at least four gallons, and
every drop of this water was swallowed down by
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA, 126.
our lart^est camel, amounting to the enormous quan-
tity of sixty gallons, or two barrels. The men kept
crying out, '''has not that camel done yet? he alone will
drink the spring dry.''"' It was in effect drained very
low; but still held out, as the water kept continually
running in, tliough slowly. This camel was a very
large and old one, about nine feet high, stout in pro-
portion, and had not drank any water for twenty
days, as I was informed by Sidl Hamet : but the
other camels did not drink as much in proportion.
Having finished watering them, we filled two goat
skins with the water, which had now become thick
and whitish; as the rock in which the bason was
formed for holding it, appeared to be chalky, soft,
and yielding. We descended this bank, and after
preparing the camels, we were mounted thereon,
and proceeded as before, but along to the eastward,
in this arm of the sea's bed. I call it an arm of the
sea, because there could be no doubt in the mind of
any one who should view it, that these high banks
were worn and washed by water ; they were from
six to eight or ten miles distant from each other,
and the level bottom was encrusted with marine
salt. The bank rises four or five hundred le^t,
and nearly perpendicular, in most places. The broken
fragments of rock, gravel and sand, that had been
undermined by the water, and tumbled down, fi led
a considerable space near the cliiis. and did not ap-
pear to have been washed by the water for a great
number of years.' I could not account for the in-
crustation of salt (as we must have been at least
threfe hundred miles firom the sep. ; this bottom or
12^ CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
bed running from east northwardly to the west or
S. W.) in any other way, than by supposing the sea
water had once overflowed this level ; that it had
since either retired from that part of the coast, or
formed a bar across its mouth, or outlet, and thus
excluded itself entirely, and that the sea air com-
bining with the saline deposit or sediment, continued
this encrustation.
The curious and interesting springs, before men-
tioned, are situated on the right or north side of this
dry bay or river, about one hundred feet below the
surface of the desart, and from three hundred and
fifty to four hundred feet from the bed or bottom^
There was not the smallest sign of their ever hav-
ing overflowed their basons ; thereby leaving it a
mystery how they ever should have been discover-
ed, as there was no rill to serve as a clue.
Our masters now hurried on to the eastward, to
find a place to emerge from this dreary abyss, still
more gloomy, if possible, than the face of the de-
sart. As we passed along, the salt crust crumbled
under the feet of our camels, like the thin crust of
snow. We came at length to a spot in the bank at
a kind of point, where we ascended gradually from
one point to another until within, probably, two hun'^
dred feet of the top ; here we were obliged to dis-
mount, and drive, coax, and encourage the camels to
go up. The ascent was very steep, though in zig-
zag directions, and the flat rock over which the
camels were forced to climb, threw them down
several times, when our masters would encourage
them to get up again, by singing and making re-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA, 12T
peated trials : helping them over the bad places by
a partial lifting, and begging the assistance of God
and his prophet most fervently, as well as of all the
saints.
Having at length reached the surface of the de-
sart, they stopped a few minutes to let the camels
breathe, and also that we might come up, for Mr.
Savage and Clark could not keep pace with the rest
of us, on account of their severe pains in conse-
quence of overcharging their stomachs with water.
The desart here had the same smooth appearance
we had before observed : no rising of the ground,
nor any rock, tree, or shrub, to arrest the view with-
in the horizon — all was a dreary, solitary waste, and
we could not but admire and wonder at the good-
ness of Providence in providing a reservoir of pure
fresh water to quench the thirst of the traveller and
his camel in this dry, salt, and torrid region, and we
felt an inexpressible gratitude to the author of our
being, for having directed our masters to this spot,
where our lives had been preserved and refreshed
by the cool delicious spring, which seemed to be
kept there by a continual miracle.
We had not gone more than eight miles from the
l&ank (in a N. E. direction) before we stopped for
the night: here we found no lee to screen us from the
strong winds, nor bush for the camels to browse on.
I judge we had travelled five hours this morning, at
the rate of seven miles an hour, before reaching the
bank, and five miles after getting down it, before we
came to the spring; making it forty miles to, and ten
miles from the spring to where we halted for the
128 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
night, so that this day's march was ahogether at
least fifty miles.
The dry bed or bottom before mentioned, had
probably been an inlet or arm of the sea that never
was explored by Europeans, or any other civilized
men; yet it must have had an outlet; and that outlet
must be to the southward of us, and if so, its mouth
must have been at least three hundred miles distant.
Here we ate the remainder of our camel's meat : —
we had no milk; for neither of our masters' camels
yielded any, and our share of meat was not more
than about an ounce each.
I judged by the height of the north star above
the horizon that we were in about the latitude of
twenty degrees North. I now experienced that to
have only one want supplied, made us feel the
others as less supportable than before ; for although
we had drank as much fresh water as we could
contain, and our thirst was in a great measure
allayed, still we were rendered extremely uneasy by
the gnawings of hunger, which, together with our
sufferings from the cold and pierping winds, made
this a long and r&stless night.
CHAP. XI.
Journeying on the Desart — they are hospitably eniertaitied
by Arabs, and come to a well of fresh water.
On the moraing of the 30th we started very early ;
three of us rode, while the other two walked; taking
oiir turns every three hours, or thereabouts. They
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 129
let the camels walk all this day, but their long legs,
and the refreshment they had enjoyed at the spring,
enabled them to step along so fast and briskly, that
those of us who were on foot, were obliged to be on
a continual small trot in order to keep up with them :
the wind at the same time blowing very strong
directly against us, and our course being nearly
N. E.
About two o'clock P. M. Sidi Hamet said to me,
*• Riley, shift Gemel ;" (I see a camel ;) he was very
much rejoiced at it, and so were his companions j
but neither I nor my companions could perceive any
thinor of the kind above the horizon for two hours
o
after this. Our masters had altered their course to
about East, and at length we all saw a camel, ap-
pearing like a speck in the horizon, but we did not
reach the travellers, who were with a large drove of
camels, until sunset. Having come up with the men,
they invited our masters to go home with them ; the
invitation was accepted, and we drove our camels
along, following them as they went towards their
tents : — it was dark and quite late before we reached
them, which were four in number.
We stopped at a small distance from the tents, and
were obliged to pluck up a few scattered shrubs, not
thicker than straw, to make a fire with. Our masters
had^given us neither meat nor drink this day. I
begged for some water, and they gave us each a
very scanty drink. We had travelled full fourteen
hours this day, and at the rate of about three miles
an hour, making a;. distance of aiboyt forty miles.
s
130
We were now in a most piteous situation, extremely
chafed and worn down with our various and comph-
cat^d suiferings, and we were now to He on the hard
ground without the smallest screen ; not even a
spot of sand on which to rest our wearied limbs — we
had been promised, however, something to eat by
our host, and about 1 1 o'clock at night Sidi Hamet
called me, and gave me a bowl containing some
boiled meat, which I divided into five heaps, and we
cast lots for them. This meat was very tender, and
there was just enough of it to fill our stomachs: after
eating this, we had scarcely lain down when they
brought us a large bowl filled with milk and water.
This was indeed sumptuous living, notwithstanding
our pains and the severely cold night wind.
On the morning of the 1st of October we were
roused up early to pursue our journey. Sidi Hamet
now called me aside, and gave me to understand
that this man had got my spy glass, and wanted to
know what it was worth. I requested him to show
it to me, which he did ; it was a ncAv one I had
boucfht in Gibraltar, and it had not been injured.
The Arab, though he did not know the use of it,
yet as the brass on it glittered, he thought it was
worth a vast sum of money. Sidi Hamet had only
seven dollars in money, having invested the rest of
his property in the purchasing of us, was not able to
buy the glass; — his fancy was as much taken with it,
however, as was that of the owner. They had also se-
veral articles of clothing in their possession, which
gave me reason to infer that we could not be a great
distance from the place where our vessel was wreck-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 131
ed; but there was no metliod of calculating to any
tlegree of certainty, as they all move with such
rapidity in their excursions, that they seem not to
know whither, or what distances they go, nor could
I find out any thing from this man concerning the
wreck. Taking our leave from this truly hospita-
ble man, we pursued our course N. E. on the level
desart.
Our masters had been very uneasy all the prece-
ding day, on account of meeting with no land marks
to direct their course; they were in the same dilem-
ma this day, directing their camels by the winds
and bearing of the sun ; frequently stopping and
smelling the sand, whenever they came to a small
sandy spot, which now and then occurred, but we
did not come across any loose drifting sand. We took
turns in riding and walking, or rather trotting, as
we had done the day before, until the afternoon,
when our masters walked, (or rather ran) and per-
mitted, us to ride.
About four o'clock P. M. we saw, and soon fell in
with a drove of camels, that had been to the north-
ward for water, and were then going in a S. W.
direction, with skins full of water, and buckets for
drawing and watering the camels; their owners very
civilly invited our masters to take up their lodgings
with them that night, and we went in company
with them about two hours, to the South, where
falling in with a very extensive but shallow valley,
we saw about fifty tents pitched, and going into the
largest clear place, unloaded and fettered our camels
to let them browse, on the leaves and twigs of the
small shrubs that grew there, or on the little low
132 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
moss, with which the ground was, in many places, co-
vered. As we went along near the tents, the men and
\7omen called me el Rats, and soon gathered around
with their children to look at us, and to wonder.
Some inquired about my country, my vessel, my
family, &c. Having satisfied their curiosity, they
left us to gather sticks to kindle our masters' fire;
this done, we found, after considerable search, a soft
spot of sand to lie down upon, where we slept
soundly until about midnight, when we were aroused,
and each of us presented with a good drink of milk :
this refreshed us, and we slept the remainder of
the night, forgetting our sores and our pains. I
reckon we had travelled this last day about forty
miles on a course of about E. N. E.
On the 2d of October we set out, in company
with all these families, and went North fifteen or
twenty miles, when they pitched their tents, and
made up a kind of a shelter for our masters with
two pieces of tent cloth joined together by thorns
and supported by some sticks. Our masters
gave us a good drink of water about noon, and at
midnight milk was brought from all quarters, and
each of us had as much as he could swallow, and
actually swallowed more than our poor stomachs
could retain.
The tribe did not move, as is customary, on the
2d of October, waiting, as Sidi Hamet said, for the
purpose of feasting us. They gave us as much milk
as we could drink on the night of the second. Here
our masters bought a sheep, of which animals this
tribe had about fifty, and they were the first we had
seen; but they were so poor, that they could with
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 133
difficulfy stand and feed upon the brown moss, which
covered part of the face of the valleys hereabouts,
and which moss was not more than one inch high.
This tribe, not unlike all the others we had seen,
took no nourishment, except one good drink of milk
at midnight, and a drink of sour milk and water at
mid-day, when they could get it.
On the morning of the 3d of October, our mas-
ters took leave of this hospitable tribe of Arabs,
who not only fed Mew, but seemed desirous that we,
their slaves, should have sufficient nourishment also,
and gave us liberally of the best they had. Our
masters had made a trade with them, and exchanged
our youngest camel for an old one that was lame in
his right fore foot, and one that was not more than
half grown. The old one they called Coho, (or the
lame) and the young one Goyeite, (or the little child.)
The sheep our masters purchased was tied about
the neck with a rope, and I was obliged to lead it
until about noon, when we came to a low valley, with
some small bushes in it — in the midst there was a
well of tolerable good water — here we watered the
camels, and as the sheep could go no farther, they
killed it, and put its lean carcass on a camel, after
placing its entrails (which they would not allow me
time to cleanse) into the carcass. This well was
about forty feet deep, and dug out among the big
surrounding roots.
134
CHAP. XII.
They arrive amongst immense mountains of driving
sand — their extreme sufferings — their masters find and
steal some barley^ and restore it again.
Having watered our camels, and filled two skins
with water, and drank as much as we needed — they
mounted Horace on the young camel, and all the
others being also mounted, we proceeded on towards
ihe N. E. at a long walk, and sometimes a trot, dri-
ving the old lame camel before us until dark night»
and I think we travelled thirty-five miles this day.
The entrails of the sheep were now given us for our
supper; these we roasted on a fire we made for
the purpose, and ate them, while our masters finisl>
ed two of the quarters.
We lay this night without any screen or shelter,
and early in the morning of the 4th, we set off on
our journey, all on foot, driving our camels before
us, on the same kind of flat surface we had hitherto
travelled over: but, about 10 A. M. it began to as-
sume a new aspect, and become sandy. The sand
where we first entered it, lay in small loose heaps,
through which it was very difficult to walk, as we
sank in nearly to our knees at each step — this sand
was scorching hot. The camels were now stopped,
and all of us mounted on them, when on their rising
up, we saw before us vast numbers of immense sand
hills, stretching as far as the eye coyld reach from
the north to the south, heaped up in a most terrific
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 135
manner ; wc soon arrived among them, and were
struck with horror at the sight ; — huge mountains of
loose sand piled up like drifted snow, towered two
hundred feet above our heads on every side, and
seemed to threaten destruction to our whole party :
not a green, or even a dry bush or shrub of any kind
in view to relieve the eye; — here was no path to
guide our footsteps, nor had we a compass to direct
our course, obstructed by these dreadful barriers.
The trade winds which had hitherto given us so
much relief on our journey, by refreshing our bodies
when heated by the rays of an almost perpendicu-
lar sun, and which had served, in some measure, to
direct our course — even these winds, which now
blew like a tempest, became our formidable enemy :
— the loose sand flew before its blasts, cutting our
flesh like hail stones, and very often covering us from
each others sight, while the gusts (which followed
each other in quick succession) were rushing by.
We were here obliged to dismount, and drive the
camels up the sandy steeps after our masters, who
went on before to look out a practicable passage.
The camels, as well as ourselves, trod deep in the
sand, and with great difficulty ascended the hills;
but they went down them very easily, and frequent-
ly on a long trot, following our masters. Sidi
Hamet, Seid, and Abdallah, seemed full of appre-
hensions for their own and our safety, and were
very careful of their camels.
Thus we drove on until dark, when coming to a
gpace where t]^e sand was not so much heaped up,
^eing like a lake surrounded by mountains, we saw
i36 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
a few shrubs : here we stopped for the night, un»
loaded, and fettered our camels, whose appetites
were as keen apparently as ours, for they devoured
the few leaves, together with the shrubs, which were
as thick as a man's linger. We next prepared a
kind of shelter with the saddles and some sand for
our masters and ourselves to keep oif in some mea-
sure the fierce and chilling blasts of wind, and the
driving sand which pierced our sores and caused us
much pain. Having kindled a fire, our masters divided
the meat that remained of the sheep : — it was sweet
to our ta^te, though but a morsel, and we pounded,
chewed and swallowed all the bones, and afterwards
got a drink of water : — then lying down on the sand,
we had a comfortable night's sleep, considering our
situation. I reckon we had made thirty-five miles
this day, having travelled about eight hours before
we got among the heavy sand hills, at the rate of
three miles an hour, and five hours among the sand
hills, at the rate of two miles an hour. We were
all afflicted with a most violent diarrhoea, brought
on, no doubt, by excessive drinking and fatigue.
At daylight on the morning of the 5th, I was or-
dered to fetch the camels, and took Mr. Savage and
Clark with me ; and the two old ones being fettered,
that is, their two fore legs being tied within twelve
inches of each other, they could not wander far ; w^e
soon found them, and I made the one I found kneel
down, and having taken olf its fetters, mounted it
with a good stick in my hand for its government, as
the Arabs of the desart use neither bridle nor halter,
but guide and drive them altogether with a stic-k,
S.UFPERINGS IN AFRICA. 137
and by words. Mr. Savage having found the bio-
camel, took off his fetters, intending to make him
kneel down in order to get on his back ; but the old
lame camel which had hitherto carried no load, and
which had occasioned us much trouble, iai forcing
him to keep up with the others when on our march,
now set off on a great trot to the South : — the young
one followed his example, so did Abdallah's, and the
big one started also, running at their greatest speed.
Seeing the panic of the other camels, I endeavoured
to stop them by riding before them with my camel,
which was the most active and fleet ; but they woulfl
not stop — dodging me every way ; my camel also
tried to ^et rid of its load by running, jumping, lying-
down, rolling over and striving to bite my legs ; but
I made shift to get on again before he could rise, and
had got some miles from where I had started, keep-
ing near and frequently before the other camels,
which appeared to be very much frightened. Our
masters had watched us, and when the camels set off,
had started on a full run after them ; but had been
hid from my view by the numerous sand hills, over
and among which we passed. Finding I could not
stop the others, and fearing I should be lost myself,
I stopped the one I was on, and Sidi Hamet soon cora.-
ing in sight, called to me to make my camel lie down.
Ho mounted it, and after inquiring which way the
other camels went, (which were now out of sight)
and telling me to follow his tracks back to our stuff,
he set off after them on full speed ; — Seld and Ab-
dallah followed him on foot, running as fast as pos-
sible. I returned ; and picking up a few skins that
T
138 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
had jolted off from the little camel, I joined Mr.
Savage and Clark, and we reached the place where
we had slept, but much fatigued ; and here we re-
mained for two or three hours before our masters
returned with the camels.
We had during this interval tasted the bark of
the roots of the shrubs which grew on the sand
near us — it was bitter, but not ill flavoured, and we
continued to eat of it until the runaway camels
were brought back; it entirely cured our diarrhoea.
They had overtaken the camels with much difficulty,
and tile creatures were covered with sweat and
sand. I expected we should receive a flogging as
an atonement for our carelessness in letting the big
camel go, that had beenfettered, and in particular,
that Mr. Savage would be punished, whom I did not
doubt they had seen, when he let his camel escape.
So as soon as they got nigh, I began to plead for him;
but it was all to no purpose, for they whipped hira
with a thick stick (or goad) most unmercifully. Mr.
Savage did not beg as I should have done in our
situation, and in a similar case, and they believed he
had done it expressly to give them trouble, and con-
tinued to call him Fonte (i. e. a bad fellow,) all the
remaining part of the journey. Having settled this
affair, and put what stuff* they had on the camels, we
mounted them and proceeded, — shaping our course,
as before, to the E. N. E. as near as the mountains
of sand would permit. It was as late as nine o'clock
when we started, and at eleven, having made about
three leagues, winding round the sand hills on a trot,
w«^ were obliged to dismount. The hills now stood
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 139
SO thick, that great care was necessary to prevent
getting the camels into an inextricable situation be-
tween them, and our masters went on a head, two of
them at a considerable distance, to pick the way, and
one to direct us how to go; — the latter keeping all
the time in sight. The sand was heated (as it had
been the preceding day) by the rays of the sun, to such
a degree that it'burned our feet and legs, so that the
smart was more severe than the pain we had before
experienced, from our blisters and chafing : — it was
like wading through glowing embers.
During the whole of this day, we had looked for
shrubs, or some green thing to relieve the eye; but
not a speck of verdure was to be seen. We had no
food ; our water was nearly exhausted, and we saw no
sign of finding an end to these horrid heaps of drift-
ing sands, or of procuring any thing to relieve our
fatigues and sufferings, which were now really
intolerable. We continued on our route, however,
as near as circumstances would permit, E. N. E. until
about nine o'clock in the evening, and stopped to
rest among the high and dreary sand heaps, without
a shrub for our camels to eat. I calculated we had
gone this day from 9 to 1 1 o'clock, twelve miles,
and from that time till we stopped, about two miles
an hour, making in all thirty-two miles. We had
nothing to eat; our masters however gave us a drink
of water, and being fatigued beyond description, we
soon sank down and fell asleep. I happened to
awake in the night, and hearing a heavy roaring to
the northward of us, concluded it must be a violent
gust of wind or a hurricane, that would soon bury us
140
in the sand forever. I therefore immediately awa-
kened my companions, who were more terrified at the
noise jeven than myself, for a few moments ; but
when we perceived that the sound came no nearer,
I was convinced, (as the wind did not increase ) that
it must be the roaring of the sea against the coast
not far otf. This Avas the first time we had heard
the sea roar since the 10th of September ; and it
proved to us that our masters were going towards the
empire of Morocco, as they had promised. My
comrades were much rejoiced at being undeceived
on that subject, for they had all along continued
to suspect the contrary, notwithstanding I had con-
stantly told them that the courses we steered could
not fail of bringing us to the coast. On the sixth,
early in the morning, we started, and I found, by
inquiring of Sidi Hamet, that our conjectures were
true ; that we were near the sea, and that the roar-
ing we heard (and which still continued) was that of
the surf: he added, "you will ^et no more milk,"
which I thought he regretted very much. We con-
tinued on our course, labouring among the sand hills
until noon, when we found, that on our right, and
ahead, they became less frequent, but on our left
there was a string of them, and very high ones,
stretching out as far as the eye could reach. The
sand hills through which we had passed rested on
the same hard and flat surface I have before mention-
ed, without being attached to it; for in many places
it was blown off, leaving naked the rocks and baked
soil, between the towering drifts.
About noon we left these high sands, and mounting;
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 141
un the camels, proceeded along southward of them,
where the sand was still deep, but not high, on
about an East course. Near this line of sand hills
our masters discovered two camels — they bore
about N. E. and we made directly for them as fast as
possible. On a near approach we observed they
were loaded, and our masters now took off the
sheaths from their guns and primed them anew;
and upon coming near the camels, they dismounted
and made us do the same. We saw no human
beino'.
The camels had large sacks on their backs, made
of tent cloth, and well filled with something; there
was also a large earthen pot lashed on one of them,
and two or three small skin bags. Seid and Ab-
dallah drove these camels on with ours, observing
strict silence while Sidi Hamet was searching for
the owner of them with his double barrelled gun,
cocked and primed. Mr. Savage was on the young
camel, and not being able to keep up, was a mile or
more behind; when Sidi Hamet found the owner of
the canaels asleep on the sand near where Mr. Savage
was. He went towards him, keeping his gun in
readiness to fire, until he saw the other had no
fire arms, and was fast asleep; when stepping care-
fully up, he snatched a small bag from near the
sleeper's head, and went slowly away with it until
past the fear of waking him. He then assisted in
driving Mr. Savage's camel along, and they soon
came up with us, where Seid and Abdallah had
made the two loaded camels lie down between some
small hillocks of sand. They untied the mouth of
142 €APTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVP.
one of the sacks, and behold its contents were bar-
ley ! This was the first bread stuff we had seen, and
it gave us new hopes; they poured out about 50 pounds
of it, I should guess, and put into a large leather bag of
their own ; then tying up the neck of the sack again,
they made the camels get up with their loads.
They now began to examine the contents of the
small bags, and found them to consist of a number
of small articles ; but the one that was taken from
near the Arab's head was partly filled with barley
meal. They were all overjoyed at this discovery,
and immediately poured out some of it into a bowl;
mixed it with water, and ate it ; then giving us about
a quart of water between us, with a handful of this
meal in it, making a most delicious gruel, they hurri-
ed us on to our camels, and set off to the S. E. on a
long trot, leaving the strange camels to themselves.
We had not proceeded more than half an hour,
before we saw a man running swiftly in chase
of us, and hallooing to make our masters stop ; they
knew he must be the owner of the camels they had
robbed, and paid no other attention to him than to
push on the camels faster. Sidi Hamet now told
me that that fellow was a " poor devil — he has not
even a musket," said he "and he let me take this bag
while he was asleep." The man gained on us very
fast. I was afraid he would get back what had been
taken from him by our masters, especially the bar-
ley — so were my shipmates; one of whom wished
he had a loaded musket — saying, " I would soon stop
him if I had one, and thus save the barley." Our-
masters madd their signs for this man to go back,
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 143
buthe continued to advance, while our Arab masters;
iinding he would come up, kept their guns cocked
in their hands, and ready to fire on him, though he
had no other arms than a scimitar; and drawing
near they halted, upon which the stranger making
an appeal to God and bowing himself down and
worshipping, declared that he had lost a part of
his property, and that he knew they must have taken
it; that he was their brother, and would rather die
than commit a bad action, or suffer others to do it
with impunity: " you have fire-arms" (Celibeatahsy
said he, "and believe you can kill me in an instant;
but the God of justice is my shield, and will protect
the innocent; I do not fear you." Sidi Hamet then
told him to leave his scimitar where he was, and
approach without fear, and then making our camels
kneel down, we all dismounted. The stranger
upon this came forward and asked — " is it peace ?"
— " it is," was the reply of Sidi Hamet ; they then
saluted each other with — "peace be with you — peace
be to your house — to all your friends," &c. &c. and
shaking one another in a most cordial manner by
the hand, seated themselves in a circle on the
ground. After a long debate, in which our masters
justified themselves for having taken the provision
without leave, because we, their slaves, were in a
state of starvation, which was very true, thej
added — " you would not have refused them a morsel,
if you had been awake !" and it was thereupon
finally agreed, to restore all that they had taken :
so they made us clear a place on the ground that
was hard, and pour out the barley from our bag-
144 <^APTA1N RILEy's NARRATIVE.
They also gave hum up his bag of meal, which hati
been much lightened, and a very small bag, which I
supposed to contain opium; this they said was all
they had taken : — then after they had prayed to-
gether, we ajl mounted our camels and proceeded on
our journey. Religion and honour even among
thieves, thought I !
CHAP. xin.
Continuation of the Journey on the Dcsart — several sin-
gular occurrences — they conie within sight of the Ocean.
This had detained us about an hour; Mr. Savage
w^s put on the old camel, which still continued very
lame, and Horace on the smallest. These camels
could not keep pace with the others, and both Mr.
Savage and Horace were severely flogged for what
0ur masters called bad management : though the
true reason I suspected was the loss of the stolen
barley, which had put them in a bad humour. We
kept on to the East as fast as the camels could go,
"until late in the evening, when hearing the voices of
men hallooino- to each other, at a short distance on
our left, our masters seemed much frightened; kept
all still; and finding a deep hollow, we silently de-
scended its steep bank, leaving our litUe camel with
his legs tied, on the level above, as he was so far
worn down by fatigue that he could scarcely walk.
When we got to the bottom of it, we found a consid-
erable number of small bushes, and having taken
SUFFERINQS IN AFRICA, 145
the saddles from off the camels and fettered their
fore legs together, as usual, we let them go to feed.
J calculate we travelled seven hours this day, at two
miles an hour, among the sand hills; then two hours
on camels, until we came to the strange ones, at the
rate of six miles an hour, including two stops, say two
hours; then from four until about 10 P. M. six
hours at five miles an hour — total this day, fifty-six
miles.
As soon as the camels were fettered, our masters
examined their guns, and having ascertained that
they were well primed — ascended the sand hills in
this valley, (for there was much drifted sand about
it in scattering heaps, and it appeared to have once
been a river, whose bed was now dry.) They bade
us all follow them, and went first to the lowest part
of the valley; then ascending the steep sides of the
sand drifts, made us crawl after them on our hands
and knees. After they had gained the top, and
waiting for us to climb up, they set up the most
tremendous howling I had ever before heard — one
counterfeiting the tone of a tiger, the other the roar
of a lion, and the third the sharp frightful yell of a
famished wolf. Having kept up this concert for
some time, they again proceeded, mounting and de-
scending, and searching for tracks, &;c.
I was much terrified, I confess, and expected they
were hunting for the people we had heard halloo
when we entered the valley, to rob and murder
them, and that we were to share their danger, and
carry their spoil. But after they had kept us mount-
ing and descending about two hours, they found a
146 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
snug retreat, surrounded on all sides by high sand
drifts, where however a few small bushes were
growing: thej made us lie down in the deep sand,
and after continuing their bowlings for about half
an hour, bade us go to sleep, which we much needed,
as our fatigues were excessive : they had not suf-
fered us to make the least noise since we reached the
valley — nor did they themselves make any, except in
imitation of wild ferocious beasts. I was now fully per-
suaded that they were actuated, by feehngs of fear
and not views of plunder in these manoeuvres ; and
taking a station with their guns in their hands around
us, as if afraid they should lose their slaves, we soon
forgot our troubles in the arms of sleep, and did not
awake until the morning of the seventh, when we
repaired to our camels and found every thing safe.
There were more camels, which we saw in the open
valley, browsing upon the bushes, which grew high-
er here than any we had hitherto seen ; they were
of a different species, and not clothed with long-
thorns.
Just as we were ready to set off on our journey,
an old woman and a boy came where we were ; the
woman appeared very friendly, made inquiries re-
specting our situation, and if our masters as well as
ourselves were not hungry; and finding that we
were indeed in want of food, she sent off her boy,
who soon returned with the boiled remains of what
I conceived to have been a sheep or goat, consisting
of the entrails and a few bones; of these our mas-
ters ate the greatest part, but gave us the remain-
(Jer — that is to say, the bones, which we were very
SUFFERmCS IN AFRICA. 1,47
glad to get, bare as they were, for our hunger was
extreme.
Having gnawed and swallowed this hard food,
and drank about half a pint of water each, coloured
with sour milk, which the old woman kindly gave us,
we proceeded on our journey, mounting this dry ri-
ver's bed or gully, which had been acted upon by wa-
ter at no very remote period. We here saw the first
bushes that deserved that name, since we had been
on this continent. They appeared to be of the wil-
low kind, some of them as large as a man's leg, and
about fifteen feet in height. It was with much diffi-
culty the camels could ascend this bank, but when
we did reach its summit, we found ourselves on the
same level desart as we had before travelled on; our
view on every side was bounded only by the distant
horizon, except on our left, where a long string of
sand-drifts of great height intercepted it. Near
these sand hills we discovered a man mounted on a
camel ; he rode swiftly towards us, which our masters
observing, while he was yet a great way off, dis-
mounted from their camels to wait his approach.
Myself and Mr. Savage were on foot, making the
best of our way along. We saw our masters dig
holes in the sand, and bury two small bags which
they had stolen from the stranger the day before, at
the time they helped themselves to the barley. The
man on his camel soon came up, and we recognized
him as the same our masters had plundered ; he had
followed us on, and now told them they had stolen
kis goods and deceived him besides.
Our masters denied the charge, and after show-
148 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRAl'^VE.
ing him that they had nothing about them of the
kind he described, told him to satisfy himself fully,
and to go and search their stuff on the camels; pro-
testing at the same time that he accused them wrong-
fully, and calling God to witness that they had noth-
ing of his in their possession. The man seemed sa-
tisfied with their protestations, and rode off without
further examination. We were going on during this
time, and they remained on the spot to dig up the
treasure after its owner had left them. When they
came up with us, Sidi Hamet said to me, " that fel-
low wanted his bags and things, but he has not got
them yet :" he then showed me the bags and their
contents. There was a small box in one of the bags^
containing opium and several hollow sticks of the
thickness of a man's finger, and six or eight inches
long ; these were filled with what I supposed to be
gold dust; the other bag contained tobacco stalks,
and the roots of an herb, which I afterwards under-
stood to be a specific remedy for evil eyes^ or witch-
craft ; this they esteemed as of great value, even more
than the gold dust and opium : the natives smoke
this root through the leg or thigh bone of a sheep
or goat, they having no other pipes, and then conceit
themselves invulnerable. I confess I was not much
pleased at the discovery of our masters' propensity
to thieving, and could not help being apprehensive
of the consequences that might result from such
licentiousness, affecting our safety and prospects of
release. We travelled fast most of this day, and
must have made thirty-five miles on about an E. N.
E. course. It was late when we stopped for the night ;
SOFFEHIiVGS IN AFRICA; 149
■-we were on a hard surface, and had neither shrub,
nor indeed any other thing to fend off the cold night
wind, which blew extremely fierce from the N.
N. E.
October the 8th, we started very early and rode
on rapidly until the afternoon, when some camels'
tracks were discovered, at which our masters seemed
very much rejoiced, for they were extremely hungry
and thirsty. We followed these tracks until about
four P. M. (they being nearly on our course) when'
we came in sight of a large drove of camels feeding
on the scattered shrubbery in a small shallow valley,
with a few sheep and goats, which were nibbling a
short brown moss, not more than an inch in height,
that grew round about in spots. After due saluta-
tions, which were very long and tedious, the owners
@f the flocks and herds invited our masters to remain
ivith them for the night, which may well be supposed
was readily accepted ; we having travelled this day
about forty-five miles. They showed our masters
the way to their tents, who, after bidding us follow,
set off for them on a full trot : we reached them in
about half an hour; there were about twenty in num-
ber — pitched in a little valley near a small thicket of
thorn trees. I call them trees, because they were
much larger than any vegetable productions we had
yet seen in this country — a few of them might be
eight inches in diameter. Our masters had already
killed a kid they had bought, and were employed in
.dressing it : which being prepared and boiled soon
after dark, our masters gave us the entrails, which
we ririmediately devoured, though not cleaned, and
1,50^ CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
nearly raw, as we had not patience to wait till they
were roasted sufficiently ; they then otfered some of
the meat to the Arabs, who were sitting around them
on the ground, but as they only came to gratify their
curiosity in viewing us, they did not accept of any.
This was the first time I had known any of them
refuse so tempting an oifer; and I could not but
consider it as a favourable omen, and that the land
was becoming more fertile and productive as we ad-
vanced on our journey, and that we must shortly
escape from this horrible desart.
After we had swallowed our morsel, these people
save each of us a o-ood drink of water, and at mid-
night (the hour set apart by the Arabs for taking
their refreshment) they awaked me and gave me a
bowl, containing probably four or five pounds of a
kind of stirabout, or hasty pudding, in the centre of
which, in a hole made for the purpose, there was
poured a pint or more of good sweet milk: — we
quickly seated ourselves in a circle around the bowl,
and though it was quite hot, we swallowed it in a
moment. This was the most delicious food I ever
tasted ; the effect it produced on my palate has never
since been effaced from my memory, and my com-
panions agreed with me, that nothing half so sweet
had ever before entered their mouths ; and as we
all took it up with our hands, each one accused the
other of eating like a hog, and of devouring more
than his equal share, t endeavoured to convince them
that it could not be more equally divided, as each
put his hand to his mouth as fast as he could.
Notwithstanding every one, by the irresistible im*
Sl^FFERINGS hV AFRICA. li)l
patience of hunger, burnt his mouth and throat, yet
this dish was unspeakably grateful : for hunger, suf-
ferings and fatigue had absolutely reduced us to
skeletons : it warmed our stomachs, and checked
the dysentery, which had been extremely distressing
for several days past. This was the first kind of
bread we had tasted since we left the wreck.
Our masters had been very much out of humour
(probably owing to hunger) for several days, and
beat my shipmates oftentimes most unmercifully, who,
in their turn, smarting under the lash, and suffering
incredibly from their sores, fatigues and privations,
became as cross as wild bears, notwithstanding I did all
in my power to lighten their burdens, relieve their
fatigues, and intercede for and beg them off when
our masters were about to beat them, and frequently
walking that they might ride; yet one of them would
often curse me to my face, and load me with the most
opprobrious epithets. My kindness seemed but to
inflame his petulence, and to excite in him a strange
animosity, so that in the raving of his distempered
imagination, he declared that he hated the sight of
me, and that my very smiles were more cutting to
him than daggers presented to his naked breast;
he seemed indeed to be transformed into a perfect
savage in disposition, nor did this rankling humour
forsake him until I showed him in Siize a letter I
there received from Mr. Willshire, assuring me he
would shortly redeem us from slavery.
Early on the morning of the 9th, we set forward
in a N. Easterly direction, and having travelled
about ten hours on the camels, at the rate o{ four
152 CAPTAIN RILEY*S NAJIRATIYE.
miles an hour, we came to a deep well, situated i8
the midst of a cluster of higli bushes ; here was a
large company of men watering many droves of
camels that were round about. These people salu-
ted our masters in a friendly manner, when they
c-ame up. I was preparing to assist in drawing
water for our camels, but Sidi Hamet would not
permit me or my companions to work ; indeed we
were so extremely reduced and weak, that we could
not without difficulty stand steady on our feet, though
(from what cause I know not) our sores were fast
healing, and our skins uniting in all parts over our
bodies.
While Seid and Abdallah were busied in drawing
water for our camels, an Arab came up with one,
and led him to our masters' watering tub or bowl,
which Seid observing, bade him desist; but the
strange Arab swore his camel should drink there,
and he (Seid) should draw water for him. This
kindled the resentment of Seid; he left his bucket,
ran up to the Arab, and gave him a heavy blow on
his face with his fist, which staggered him near to
falling; but recovering himself, he drew his scimitar^
and made a powerful thrust at Seid, who saved his
life by springing suddenly from him, and the scimitar
but slightly pricked his breast. Sidi Hamet had by
this time seized and unsheathed his gun, and present-
ed it to the Arab's breast within a yard's distance,
ready to blow him through. When he was about
to fire, his hand was seized by one of the bystanders,
and others of them rushing between the conibatants
t'p prevent bloodiihed. laid hold f»f Spld and his antag-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 153
enist, and having separated them bj main force, they
removed the Arab to the other side of the well,
where some of the company drew water for his
camel, which having drank its fill, they sent the fellow
off, muttering curses as he went away. Our masters,
during all this time, were so exasperated at the con-
duct of this man, that nothing less than the strength
of superior numbers would have prevented them
from putting him to death, and all the company
agreed that they had been grossly insulted, especially
as they were strangers.
When our camels had finished drinking at this
well, the water of which was very brackish, we were
mounted, and proceeded further east for about one
hour's ride, where we found two more wells, which
appeared to have been lately dug, and the water
they contained was very salt. Here was a large
drove of camels (probably one hundred) to be
watered, and they obliged me to assist in drawing
water until they had all finished ; my master encour-
aging me, by saying, " their owner was a very good
man, and would give us food." It was about sunset
when we had finished drawing water, and we fol-
lowed the valley in which we were for about three
miles east, when we came to the tent we had been
in quest of: here was no lee to keep off the cold
wind, nor did we get any thing to eat, notwithstand-
ing our masters had praised the liberality of our
host, and tried by every means to obtain some pro-
visions from him. I soon found his goodness was
like that of many others; (i. e.) he was no longer
154 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
liberal than while there was a prospect of profit,
I presume we travelled forty-five miles this day.
As soon as daylight appeared on the morning ol
the 10th, we set forward, all mounted on the camels,
and kept on steadily until night over this most
dreary desart, and came to a halt long after dark,
without any thing to keep off the wind, which was
blowing a strong gale. We travelled this day about
thirteen hours, at four miles an hour; as the camels
went all day on a quick walk, we must have made
at least fifty-two miles E. N. E.
Oct. the 11th, we set off very early on a full
trot, and went on until about noon, seven hours, at
six miles an hour, when the land before us appeared
broken, and we descended gradually into a deep
valley, whose bottom was covered with sand ; and
on both sides of us, at a great distance, we saw very
high and steep banks like those of a river, and fol-
lowed the tongue of land that separated them. Our
course was nearly East. At about two P. M. our
masters said they saw camels ahead, but ive could
not perceive them for a long time after, when keep-
ing on a great trot, we came up with a drove about
six P. M. We could however find no owners, nor in
fact any human being; for all had fled and hid them-
selves, probably from fear of being robbed, or that
contributions might be levied on their charity for
some provisions. We searched some time for the
owners of these -camels, but not finding them, we
continued on, and having come to the abrupt end of
the tongue of land on which we had been travelling,
we descended into the river's bed, which was dry and
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 153
5oft. Pushing forward, we reached a large cluster of
bushes, which appeared like an island in a lake, when
seen at a distance, and I suppose it was ten o'clock
at night before we arrived at the spot, though we
saw it in the distant horizon long before dark. As
we entered among the bushes, our masters preserved
a profound silence; and having found a clear spot of
about twenty yards in diameter, encircled by high
bushes, which kept off the wind, we stopped there
for the night; having travelled that day for the
space of about fourteen hours, at the rate of five miles
an hour, making a distance of seventy miles. We
had nothing this niglit wherewith to allay our hun-
ger; our fatigues and sufferings may be more easily
conceived than expressed; yet as we were sheltered
from the night winds, we slept very soundly until
we were roused up to continue our journey.
On the 12th of October, as soon as daylight
appeared, we watered the camels at a well of brack-
ish water near the bushes before mentioned. Our
masters had been careful not to make the least noise
during the night, nor to kindle a fire, fearing they
should be discovered and surprised by some more
powerful party; but neither foe nor friend appeared;
and having filled a skin with some of this brackish
water, we descended a second steep bank to the bot-
tom, or lowest part of this river's bed, which was
then dry, sandy, and encrusted with salt; it ap-
peared very white, and crumbled under the feet of
our camels, making a loud crackling noise. The
reasons of this bed being then without water, ap-
peared to be the recess of the tide : its left bank
156 Captain riLey's narrative.
rose very high in perpendicular cliffs, while its right
was sloping and covered with sand, evidently blown
by the winds from the sea beach, and which lay in
drifts up to its very summit. This bay (for it can
be nothing else) ran into the land from near a S. ^/V' .
to a West direction, and was not more than eight of
ten miles wide here, which I afterwards found was
near its mouth, but was very broad within, and ex-
tended a great distance into the country ; for since
we entered its former bed we had travelled twelve
hours, at the rate of five miles an hour, making
sixty miles, and it then extended farther than the
eye could reach to the S. W.
The steeu banks on both sides, which were four or
five hundred feet high, showed most evident signs of
their having been washed by sea water from their
base to near their summits, (but at a very remote
period) and that the sea had gradually retired from
them. Our masters being in a state of starvation,
their ill humour increased exceedingly, when about
nine o'clock in the forenoon we saw two men, driving
two camels, come down the sand hills on our right.
Our masters rode off to meet them, and having made
the necessary inquiries, returned to us, who had
continued going forward, accompanied by Abdallah.
Sidi Hamet informed us that there were goats in an
E. S. E. direction not far distant, and that we should
soon have some meat; so we commenced climbing
over the high hills of sand, in order that we might
fall in with them. In ascending these hills, which
"were extremely difficult and long, our old lame
camel gave out, having fallen down several times,
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 157
which caused ranch delay; so findmg him nearly
expiring, we abandoned him and proceeded on;
though this circumstance of losing the camel, also
helped to increase the rage of our masters, who
now behaved like madmen. As we were climbing
up, we perceived a hole dug in the sand, and we were
told that the entrails of a camel had been roasted
there, which Seid discovered by applying his nose
to the surrounding earth. Sidi Hamet having gone
on before us with his gun, we had already ascended
several miles of this steep and sandy bank, and on
arriving near the level of the surrounding country,
we heard the report of a musket fired, at no great
distance from where we were, and soon perceived
Sidi Hamet, accompanied by another Arab, driving
a flock of goats before them. This Arab was much
intimidated at the sight and report of a gun, for my
master had fired off one of the barrels to frighten
him. When the goats came near us, our masters,
who considered possession as a \ery important pre-
liminary, ran in among the flock, and seized four of
them, which they gave into our charge, until they
should settle about the price with their oAvner, who
was alone and unarmed, but at this moment he was
joined by his wife: — she had not been at all fright-
ened, and commenced scolding at our masters most
immoderately and loudly : — she said, she would
not consent to part with the goats, even if her hus-
band did, and insisted on knowing Sidi Hamet's name:
this he told her, and she then began to tantalize
him for being so cowardly as to rob an unarmed
»an; said the whole country should ring with his
158 €APTAL\ RILEY'S NARRATIVJE:,
name and actions, and she did not doubt but slie
could find some man who would revenge this inju-
ry — her husband all this time strove to stop her
tongue, but to no purpose; nor did she cease scold-
ing until Seid presented his gun to her breast, and
threatened her, if she spoke another word, to blow
her to pieces. This compelled her to pause a mo-
ment, while our masters (taking advantage of her
silence) informed them that he had left a good
camel a little distance behind, which being only
tired, could not proceed with them, and that he
would crive them this camel in exchan2:e for these four
goats. I could plainly discover, however, that these
people did not believe him. Sidi Haniet nevertheless
spoke the truth in part; a camel was indeed left be-
hind, but not a good one; yet as there was no
alternative, they were necessitated to submit ; the
woman however insisted on exchanscinix one o-oat w^e
had for another, which our masters assented to, mere-
ly to gratify her caprice.
This business being thus settled, which had taken
up nearly an hours time, our goats were tied fast to
each other by their necks, and given into my charge ;
leaving Mr. Savage and Horace to assist in dri-
viniT them. Clark and Burns were ordered to drive
the camels, \yhilst our masters, a little less fretful
than before, went forward to pick out a practicable
passage for them and the goats, while my party
brought up the rear. The goats were difficult to
manajre, but we continued to drive them alons:, and
generally within sight of the camels, though with
Sfreat fatig-ue and exertion. Our huni^er and thirst
SUFFERINGS I2i AFRICA. 159
were excessive — the direct heat of the sun, as well
as that reflected from the deep and yielding sands,
was intense. Mr. Savage found here a very short
green weed, which he pulled and ate, telling me it was
most delicious, and as sweet as honey, but I begged
him not to swallow any of it until I should ask our
masters what was the nature of it, for it might be
poison ; and I refused to touch it myself, though it
looked tempting. In our distressed condition, how-
ever, he thought a crieen thins: that tasted so well
could do him no harm, and continued to eat whatever
he could find of it, which (happily for him) was not
much ; but in a short time he was convinced to the
contrary, for he soon began to vomit violently : — this
alarmed me for his safety, and I examined the weed
he had been so delighted with, and after a close in-
vestigation, I was convinced it was no other than
what is called in America the Indian tobacco. Its
effects were also similar; but how these plants came
to grow on those sands I cannot conceive.
Mr. Savage continued to vomit by spells for two
hours or more, which, as he had very little in his
stomach, strained it so excessively as to bring forth
blood. I could not wait for him, because both our
masters, their camels, and our shipmates, were al-
ready out of sight. When he could proceed no fur-
ther, he would stop and vomit, and then by running
(though in great distress) as fast as he was able,
come up with us again. I encouraged him all f
could — told him what the herb was, and that its ef-
fects need not be dreaded.
Ever since we had been coming near the summit
160 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
of the land, we had discerned the sea ; though at a
great distance ahead and on our left, but as it ap-
peared dark and smooth in the distant horizon, I
supposed it to be an extensive ridge of high wood-
land, and hoped we should soon reach it, as our
course bent that way, and that this would prove to
be the termination of the desart. Horace, however,
thought it appeared too dark and smooth for land,
and regarding it again attentively, I discovered it
was in fact the ocean, and I could plainly distinguish
its mountainous waves as they rolled along, for it
was greatly agitated by fierce winds. This was the
first view we had had of the sea since we were made
slaves : it was a highly gratifying sight to us all,
and particularly so, as it was quite unexpected ; and
it very much revived the spirits of myself and de-
sponding companions.
CHAP. XIV.
Tj'hey travel along the sea-coast under high banks — -fall
in with and join a company of Arabs — travel in the
night for fear of robbers — Mr. Savage faints- — is
near being massacred^ and rescued by the author.
Discerning the tracks of our camels, which we
had lost sight of for a time, as they had crossed
over rocks, where they had descended through a
rent or chasm, partly covered with high drifts of
loose sand towards the sea-shore, we followed them
down immensely steep sand hills, to a tolerably in-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. l6l
clined plane, between the first and second banks of
the sea ; which, from appearances, had once washed
the upper bank, but had long since retired : — the
inclined plane had also been a beach for ages,
where the stones, that now covered its surface, had
been tossed and rounded, by striking against one
another.
From this beach the ocean had also retired, and
now washed other perpendicular cliffs of one hun-
dred feet or more in height, at a distance of six or
eight miles to the northward of the former ones,
which appeared to rise in abrupt, and in many places,
©verhang-ino; cliffs of rocks to the heis;ht of three
hundred feet. We had made our way through
these cliffs, by means of a hollow, seemingly formed
©n purpose for a passage, as it was the only one in
view; and as I did not know which way our masters
went, I had stopped to view the surrounding pros-
pect, and now give what was then my impression.
I was at a loss which way to steer my course, but
our masters, who were concealed behind a small hil-
lock on our left, discovering my embarrassment, now
called to me, where I soon joined them. It was now
nearly dark, and there were three or four families of
Arabs near, sitting under a shelter made of skins
extended by poles : here our camels w^ere turned up
to browse, arid we were ordered to collect brush,
which grew on the steep side of the banks, to make
a fire, and to keep off the wind during the night.
Mr. Savage was entirely exhausted, and I requested
him to He down on the ground, whilst the rest of us
gathered the bushes required ; but when I came in
Y
162 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
with my handful, Seid was beating him with a stick
to make him assist. I begged he would permit Mr.
Savage to remain where he was ; told him he was
sick, and that I would perform his share of the la-
bour. Sidi Haraet now returned and killed one of
the goats, of which thej gave us the entrails; a
seasonable relief indeed, and we were allowed to
drink a little of the soup they were boiled in, and a
small piece of meat was divided between us; and
each received a drink of water: — I had before stolen
a drink for Mr. Savage, whose bloody vomit con-
tinued. In the course of the night they gave us a
small quantity of the same kind of pudding we had
before tasted, but as Mr. Savage was sick, they re-
fused to give him any, saying, " he had already
eaten too much of something, but they did not know
what" Sidi Hamet, however, saved a little of the
pudding in a bowl for him, and as he seemed unwil-
ling to die with hunger, I gave him part of tlie pud-
ding I had, and saved ray share of meat for him until
the morning. Our hunger and thirst being some-
what appeased, we slept this night pretty soundly.
We had travelled this day about thirty miles.
October the 14th, early in the morning, we took
leave of these Arabs, but while we were busied in
getting olT, Abdallah seized on Mr. Savage's pudding
in the bowl as a good prize, and swallowed it in an
instant; so that nothing but my care of Mr. Savage
saved him from fainting and consequent death on
this day. Our masters had purchased two more
ofoats from those Arabs, which increased our num-
o
her to five ; these we were forced to drive, and we
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 166
kept along the sea-shore the whole of this day.
On our right the original sea-shore (or bank) rose
nearly three hundred feet perpendicularly, and in
many places, in overhanging cliffs. The inclined plane
on which we travelled was from three to six or
eight miles wide, and very regular; covered with
pebbles and many round stones ; among which grew
here and there a few dwarf bushes of different
kinds from what I had seen before in various parts
of the world, A little to our left the plane broke
off abruptly, and the ocean appeared. The bank
was from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet
high above the level of the sea, and mostly perpen-
dicular, against which the heavy surges dashed with
great fury, sounding like loud peals of distant thun-
der. Our course and that of the shore was about
east, and near dark we fell in with four families of
Arabs who were about pitching their tents near the
sea-shore. Our masters went and introduced them-
selves to the one who appeared to be their chief or
the principal character among them, and whose
name was Hassar. They soon became acquainted,
and it was ascertained that Hassar and his wife, to-
gether with four men that were with him, and their
families, were going the same route that we were,
upon which our masters agreed to join company.
Hassar's wife, whose name was Tamar, and ap-
peared to be an uncommonly intelligent woman, ad-
dressed me in broken Spanish and Arabic mixed ; —
she said she had saved the lives of some Spaniards
who had been wrecked on that coast a great many
years ago ; that a vessel came for them, and that
164 CAPTAIN RILEY^S NARRATIVE:.
she went to Lanzarofe (one of the Canary Islands)'
to get some goods which the Spanish captain pro-
mised to deliver her father, who kept three of the
men until the Spaniard should have fulfilled his con-
tract, and brought her back. She represented to
me the manner in which the houses in Lanzarote
were built, and described the forts and batteries
with their cannon, &c. so very clearly and accurate-
ly, that I had no doubt but that she must have seen
them, and I gave her to understand I had been there
also. She said Lanzarote was a bad country, and
told us, we should not die with hunger while we re-
mained in her company.
We travelled on the 14th about twenty miles.
In the night our masters killed a goat and gave us a
part of the meat as well as of the entrails: Hassar's
wife also gave us a small quantity of the pudding
before mentioned, which the Arabs call Lhash^ and
here we had a good night's sleep. October the
15th, early in the morning, Hassar and his company
struck their tents, and all these families proceeded
on with us until near night, when we came to a very
deep gully, which we could not pass in any other
way than by going down the bank on to the sea
beach; and as it was low tide, there Avas a kind of
pathway where camels had gone down before us.
We descended, and there found a tent with an
Arab family in it just below the high bank ; so
sending on the camels, Sidi Ilamet made us stop here
a few moments. The owner of the tent pretended
to speak Spanish, but in fact knew only a few de-
tached words of that language : he mentioned to
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. l65
me that he knew I had promised Sidi Hamet that
raj friend in Swearah would pay him the amount I
had bargained for, stating the sum : now, said this
Arab — "Have you a friend in Swearah?" I answer-
ed I had : — " do not He, (said he) for if you do,
you will have your throat cut; but if you have told
him so merely that you might get off of t e desart,
so as to procure something to eat, he will pardon
that pretext and deception so far as only to sell you
and your comrades to the highest bidder, the first
opportunity, provided, however, that you confess the
deceit now. In a few days (added he) you will
find houses and a river of running w^ater, and should
you persist in deceiving him, you will certainly lose
your life." I made him understand that I was in-
capable of lying to Sidi Hamet ; that all I told him
was true ; that he was the man who had saved my
life, and he should be well rewarded for his good-
ness by my friend, and by our Almighty Father.
This seemed to satisfy Sidi Hamet, who was present,
and understood me better than the other did, and
he told me I should see Swearah in a few days. We
now went forward, accompanied by the Arab, who
piloted us across a small arm of the sea that enteied
the beforementioned gully. We here found a j^air
of kerseymere pataloons that had belonged to Mr.
Savage, in the possession of one of this man's Hi le
sons ; — I pointed them out to my masters and beg-
ged them to buy them, which after a long bart r
with the boy, Seid effected, by giving him in ex-
change a piece of blue cotton cloth which he had
wore as a kind of shirt: they wished me to give thfe
i66 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
pantaloons to Clark or Horace, but I gave them
to Mr. Savage, although they insisted he was fonte^
or a bad fellow.
Having got up the steep bank again, after wa-
ding through the salt water, which was nearly up to
our hips, and one hnrsdred yards broad, we encamp-
ed for the night on high dry land, and at dark our
masters, taking Horace and myself with them, went
near a few tents close by the sea, where Ave were
presented with a quantity of dried muscles, which
though very salt, we found excellent : these we di-
vided among our shipmates: I conjecture we had
made twenty-five miles this day. Here our masters
killed their remaining goats, boiled and ate their
entrails and most of their meat, as all present were
hungry, and would have some in spite of every op-
position ; so that our share was seized and swallow-
ed by others.
October the I6th, we made ready and started
very early, but went on slowly, keeping near the
sea-shore, and mostly in the broken grounds, caused
by its former washings. Our masters seemed very
fearful all this day, and told me there were many rob-
bers and bad men hereabouts, who would endeavour
to seize and carry us off, and that they could throw
large stones with great force and precision. We
had not travelled more than fifteen miles before sun-
set, and night coming on, our masters, who had
mounted Mr. Savage, Clark, and Burns on the
camels, drove them on at a great rate, while my-
<ielf and Horace were obliged to keep up with them
by running on foot. All this time they had their
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. . 167
gung in their hands unsheathed, and when Horace
and myself were obliged occasionally to stop, one
of them always stayed with us, and then hurried us
on as fast as possible. In this manner we proceeded
on until about midnight, when coming to a deep gul-
ly, Mr. Savage and Clark were dismounted, and
Horace and myself placed on the camels. De-
scending the valley, we found it full of high sand
drifts, and proceeded without making the least noise:
the valley was wide, and the sand lying in it, had no
doubt been driven from the sea beach by the wind.
All the women and children at this time were run-
ning on foot. After reaching with much labour the
other side of the valley, and the summit beyond it,
we found the whole surface of the ground making
an even inclined plane, covered with deep drifts of
loose sand. I had been riding, I think, about two
hours, when Clark, who was a considerable distance
behind, called to me, and said, " Mr. Savage has
fainted away, and they are flogging him with sticks."
I instantly slipped off my camel, and ran to relieve
him as fast as my legs would carry me. Seid was
striking his apparent lifeless body, which lay stretch-
ed on the ground, with a heavy ^stick : Hassar had
seized him by tlie beard with ont hand, and with the
other held a sharp scimitar, with which he was in
the act of cutting his throat. I laid hold of Hassar,
jerked him away, and clasping the body of Mr.
Savage in my arms, raised him up, and called for
water, Hassar would have run me through with
his scimitar, but Sidi Hamet arrested and prevented
kim. I expected to lose my life, but had determin-
168 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
ed to save Mr. Savage's at all hazards. Our mas-
ters and the whole coiBpanj of men, women, and
children, were around me : they were possessed
with the belief that he was perverse and obstinate,
and that he would not exert himself to proceed at
a time when thej were in haste to go on, lest they
should fall into the hands of robbers; for which
reason they had determined to kill him. I made
Sidi Hamet, however, and the others understand,
that he had fainted through hunger and excessive
fatigue, and that he was not perverse in this in-
stance. This surprised them exceedingly: they had
never before heard of such a thing as fainting. Sidi
Hamet ordered a camel to be brought, and a drink
of water to be given him, and when he revived, this
Arab shed tears; then putting him and Clark on a
camel, one to steady the other, they proceeded.
Sidi Hamet desired me to get on with Horace and
ride, saying, with a sneer—" the English are good
for nothing — you see even our women and children
can walk and run." I told him 1 could walk, that
I was not a bad fellow; and began to run about
and drive up the camels; this pleased him exces-
sively, and he bade me come and walk with him,
leaving the camels to the care of others, calling me
" good Riley — you shall again see your children, if
God please."
We continued our journey eastward along the
south side of a high string of sand hills, v/lien hear-
ing a dog bark before us, we turned the camels sud-
denly off to the north, setting them off on a full trot,
but passing over the sand hills without noise : we
SJLTPFERINGS IN AFRICA. 169
kept this course for about an hour, until having got
near the sea-bank, and north of the sand hills, we
resumed our former course. Near daylight wc lost
our way, and fearing to go amiss, as it was very
dark, they made the camels lie down in a circle,
placing lis within it — when th6y kept guard over us
with their muskets in their hands, while we took a
nap. I should guess we travelled fifty miles this last
day and night.
October the 17th, early in the morning, we set
forward again, still on the same inclined plane, be-
tween the first and second banks of the sea. The
high banks on our right, whose pointed rocks, where
they had been washed by the ocean, were still visi-
ble all the way, began to be overtopped with high
hills rising far into the country, and presenting to
our vie;w a new aspect, so that I was convinced we
had left the level desart.
CHAP. XV.-
Black mountains appear in the east — they come to a
river of salt water^ and to wells of fresh water,
where they find many horses. Description of a sin-
gular plant — come to cultivated land ; to a fresh
water river., and a few stone huts.
The black tops of high mountains appeared in the
distant horizon to the eastward about noon, and the
camel paths were very much trodden. We kept on
until near night, when meeting with a deep valley,
i
170 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
we wound our course through it to the southward,
and then went down south-eastwardly through ano-
ther deep valley, where there was a good path.
The black bare mountains on both sides of us gave
us great hopes that we should soon come to running
water and cultivated lands; and in reality near
night we came to a stream of water, with high grass
and bushes growing on its margin. The water,
however, was very brackish, and could not be drank;
but on its opposite bank we saw a company of men
at some wells, watering about forty fine looking
horses and some camels. Our masters saluted those
men, and crossing the stream, which in this part was
about two feet deep and thirty feet wide, we water-
ed our camels also at the same place. This river,
whose water was clear as crystal, was literally
filled with beautiful large fish, which were jumping
above the surface at every moment, but the Arabs
did not seem to want them, for they could have been
caught very easily. The company with the horses
and camels left the wells, and went on to the south,
riding at a full trot along the river's side; tliey were
armed only with scimitars. Our company then went
towards the sea, and Hassar's women pitched their
tents for the night ; here they cooked a goat, which
they divided among all the party, and what fell to
our share cannot be supposed to have been much.
I believe we made thirty-six miles this day, as we
rode nearly all the time.
October the 18th, we ascended the hill, climbing
up in a zisczag path on the steep side of the east
bank of this river, and having gained the surface,
SCFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 171
we found it to be a continuation of the same inclined
plane on which we had before been travelhng. The
bank on our right, to the south, still continued to give
indubitable proofs of its having been washed by the
ocean ; whose surges had worn in under the shelving
rocks, which hung in immense masses of from two
to three hundred feet high over the surface of the
inclined plane below, while the plane itself adjoin-
ing the cliffs was covered with fragments that had
fallen from above, and with other stones that had
been washed and worn round by the ocean's waves,
leaving the most positive marks of its having retired
to its present bed. These observations, with those
I had made beiore, and was enabled to make after-
wards, fully satisfied my mind, that the sea had
gradually retired from this continent; — I must leave
it to philosophers to account for the cause. The
only green thing we had seen for several days past,
except what grew immediately on the bank of the
river, (which were some bushes resembling dwarf
alders and bulrushes) was a shrub that rose in a
small bunch at the bottom, having frequently but one
stalk, from three to twelve inches in thickness ; the
limbs spreading out in every direction, like an um-
brella, into innumerable branches,^making a diame-
ter of from fifteen to twenty feet, and not more than
six feet in height; its leaves very green, smooth,
pointed, and about four inches long by one and a
half broad ; its bark resembled that of the hard or
sugar maple tree; its branches terminated abruptly,
the point of each twig being nearly as thick as the
end of a man's finger: this shrub, or weed, was very
172 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
tender, and as we broke off the twigs, a great manf
drops of glutinous liquid, resembling milk, flowed
from them, but its odour and taste were of the most
disagreeable kind, and the camels would not feed on
it. We saw a good deal that had grown up before,
and had died, and became dry : on breaking it off,
I found it was hollow, and almost as light as a com-
mon drj weed. Neither our masters nor the other
Arabs would light a fire with it, on account of its dis-
agreeable smell when burning; the taste of the milk
issuinp^ from this plant was the most nauseous and
disgusting in nature, though very white and beauti-
ful to behold. About noon we came to the foot of
the high mountains we had seen the day before, and
turned in between two of them to the south-east,
leaving the sea entirely. We went up through a
chasm in the bank, over rocks and through a narrow
footway, formed by the treading of camels and
horses; for we had seen many horse-tracks, and also
the tracks of one animal of the kind called neat
cattle.
As we proceeded on foot, winding upwards, we
discovered on our left a few stones piled up in the
form of a wall, round a pit of ten or twelve feet
across, and six feet deep, dug in the eaith by art.
There were lying on the ground, around the wall,
several earthen pots that would contain from three
to four gallons each ; and which appeared to have
been made for, and used as boilers. One of our
young men directly took up one of them, and was
lashing it on his camel as a good prize, when Hassar
and Sidi Hamet, obs^rving^ the circumstance, made
SUFFERINGS Ii\ AFRICA. 11 .i
iiim untie and carry it back again to the spot where
he had found it. As I already knew the propensity
all had for plundering, I could not but imagine that
they now restrained themselves through fear. About
sunset we came to a small spot of land that had
been cultivated, and fell in with a heap of barley
straw. Here was the first sign of cultivation we
had seen on this continent, and we hailed it as the
harbinger of happier days. We had travelled full
thirty miles this day, and our masters now gave us
the putrid remains of the goat which had hung on
one of the camels tor four days; this we' roasted,
and found it a delicious morsel ; it was tender, and
needed no seasoning. Some of my comrades, as if
their taste had become depraved by the rage of
liunger, declared that putrid meat was far preferable
to fresh; that it wanted neither salt nor pepper to
give it a relish, and that if ever they got home again,
they should prefer such food to any other. Having
finished our savoury supper, we lay down on the
straw, and enjoyed a most charming, sound, and re-
freshing; sleep. To us, who for so long a time had
been obliged to repose our wearied limbs and wasted
frames on the hard-baked bosom of the desart, or
the dead sides of the barren sand drifts, this solitary
heap of fresh straw seemed softer and sweeter than
a bed of down strewn over with the most odoriferous
flowers. .
October the 19th, we resumed our journey very
early in the morning, and travelled on foot, all ex-
cept Burns, who was so far exhausted as to be unable
t« walk. Our course rounded from S. E. to E. N. E.
174 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
keeping the bottom of the valleys, most of which
had been cultivated by the plough at no very remote
period, but only in a narrow strip. The sides
of the mountains were entirely barren and naked
of foliage, and we kept on winding as the val-
leys permitted, until about two o'clock, P. M. when,
suddenly through a deep valley before us, a few
rough stone huts broke upon our view, and a mo-
ment afterwards we beheld a stream of clear water
purling over a pebbly bottom, and meandering-
through banks covered with green bushes and
shrubs in full blossom. On the farther side cows,
asses, and sheep, were feeding on green grass, and
a number of date trees adorning and shading the
margin of the rivulet. This was a sight none of
us expected to behold, and I poured out my soul in
rapturous effusions of thankfulness to the Supreme
Being. Excess of joy had so far overpowered our
faculties, that it was with difficulty we reached the.
water's edge ; but urging forward to the brink with
headlong steps, and fearlessly plunging in our
mouths, like thirsty camels, we swallowed down
large draughts until satiated nature bade us stop.
The rivulet was fresh, and fortunately not so cold
as to occasion any injurious effects : it was quite
shallow, and not more than about five yards in width;
it appeared, however, very evidently that when the
rain falls in the surrounding country, it flows with a
much deeper and broader current. It is called by
the Arabs cl Wod noon^ or the river Nun ; comes from
the south-east, and runs from this place to the seat
in a northeily direction. We had arrived on its
SUFFERINGS IX AFRICA. 175
i;ight bank, where fcome barren date trees grew, but
which afforded to us nothing but their shade : hun-
gry, however, as we were, our fatigue got the better
of every other want, and as these were the first trees
we had met with during our distressing pilgrimage,
we embraced the kindly offer, and enjoyed about
two hours of refreshing sleep : I was then awakened
by Sidi Hamet, who directed me to come with my
companions and follow him: this we instantly did,
and going near one of the small houses, he diviued
amongst us, to our inexpressible joj^ about four
pounds of honey in the comb. This was indeed a
dainty treat; and with the hungriness of greedy
bears, we devoured it, comb and all, together with a
host of young bees just ready for hatching, that
filled two-thirds of the cells; our hearts at the same
time swelling with gratitude to God, and tears of joy
tricklins: down our fleshless cheeks.
Hassar's men pressed around and endeavoured to
snatch from us this delicious food, of which they had
no share ; but Sidi Hamet placing the bowl on his
knees, passed the honey-comb to us piece by piece
in one hand, while he held his gun in the other,
ready to fire on any one who should attempt to de-
prive us of our meal. The eyes of these fellows
seemed to flash fire at the preference w^e enjoyed,
and we dreaded the effects of their malicious envy;
for the Arabs set no bounds to their ancrer and re-
O
sentment. and rf^gard no law but that of superior
force. Having finished our luscious repast, we were
told by our masters to go to rest, which we did, and
I7t) CAPTAIN RILEYS NARRATIVE.
soon fell asleep In the shade formed by a beautiful
umbrella palm-tree.
About dark we were called up and ordered to
gather fuel, and were afterwards presented with
some pudding of the same kind we had before eaten,
thouah mixed with oil, that I afterwards ascertained
was the argan oil, which though fresh, had a very
strong smell, and my stomach being cloyed with
honey, I declined eating any. My companions, how-
ever, relished this oil very much, and preferred it af-
terwards to butter during our staj^ in Africa. ^^ e
found a good shelter this night near a burying place
with a small square stone building in the centre,
whitewashed and covered with a dome; and I after-
wards learned that this was a sanctuary or saint
house : it was fenced in with thorn bushes, and was
the first burying place we had seen in this country.
I computed we had travelled this day (Oct. 19)
about eighteen miles.
On the morning of the 20th5 we did not go for-
ward, and a number of Arabs and Moors came to
see our masters and us. This place appeared to be
a great thoroughfare : large droves of unloaded
camels were passing up to the eastward from the way
we had come, as well as from the southward, and also
great numbers of loaded camels going towards
the desart. Their loading consisted principally of
sacks of barley, some salt and iron, together with
other merchandise.
During the fore part of this day, several parties
of men. in all from sixty to eighty, passed us; all
S.UFFERINGS IN AFRIGA. 177
Miounted on handsome horses of the Arabian breed,
well-bred and high-spirited : their riders were co-
vered with cloaks or sulains, and every one had a
single barrelled musket in his hand, the stocks of
which were curiously wrought and inlaid with
small pieces of various coloured wood and ivory, ar-
ranged and fitted in a very particular manner. The
locks of these muskets were of the Moorish kind,
and very unhandy, though substantial, and they
seldom miss fire, although their powder is bad and
coarse grained. This and a good scimitar slung on
their right side constitute the whole of their weap-
ons. They depend more upon the scimitar for close
quarters in battle than upon their musket, for, say
they, this will never miss fire; being similar to the
practice which it is said the Russian General (Suwar-
row) used to inculcate on his soldiers — " the ball
will lose its way, the bayonet never — the ball is a
fool; the bayonet a hero." A Moor is ashamed to
be without his scimitar; their scabbards are made of
brass, and plated on the outside with silver, but those
worn by the Arabs are made of leather: these
weapons both of the Moors and Arabs, are suspend-
ed from the neck by cords made of woollen yarn
died red, or a strong braided leather thong. They
call a scimitar or long knife el skine.
These natives were of a different race of men
from any we had hitherto seen ; they wear a haick
or piece of woollen cloth wrapped about their bodies,
which covering them, falls down below their knees;
or else a cloak called gzlabbia, made in a similar
manner, cut with short sleeves, and one fold of the
A a
178 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
haick generally covered the head, but those wh»
had not their heads covered with their haick or the
hood of their gzlabbia, or sulam, wore a kind of
turban ; the cloak or sulam, is made of coarse black
cloth, very shaggy, and much in the form of the
European cloak, with a hood or head-piece to it; it
is, however, sewed together part of the way down
in front, so that to get it on, they slip it over their
heads, and it covers their arms. They are gene-
rally stout men, of five feet eight or ten inches in
height, and well set; their complexion a light olive —
they wear their beards as long as they will grow,
and consider a man without a great bushy beard an
effeminate being, and hold him in great contempt.
Their saddles were well made and very high, at
least eiirht or ten inches, fitted before and behind
so as almost to make it impossible for the horse to
throw his rider; their bridles are of the most pow-
erful Arabian kind; their stirrups are made of broad
sheets of iron that cover almost the whole foot —
many of them were plated with silver. All the men
wore slippers and spurs, and had their stirrups tied
up very short.
While we remained here, a very respectable look-
ing old man, who spoke a few words of Spanish,
after learning from our masters who we were, came
to me and inquired about my country and my friends
in Swearah ; said he knew all the consuls there,
and told me their names were Rcnshaw, Josef, Este-
van, and Corte. He said he was going to Swearah,
and should be there in ten days, and would carry a
letter for rae if my master would let me write : but
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 179
we had no paper. I informed him that my friend
was named Retishaw, guessing him to be the EngUsh
consul. This old man told my master he believed
I spoke the truth, and that I had been at Swearah,
which from his discourse I understood to be the
same as Mogadore. He then set off eastward on
his mule, which was a very large and handsome onfe.
All the people that passed here appeared very
friendly to our masters; they wished to know our
story, and requested my opinion of their horses,
saddles and bridles, muskets, scimitars, and ac-
coutrements in general, &c. all of which I declared
to be of the best possible kind. This morning, Sidi
Hamet bought a hive of honey, and undertook to
give some of it to us, but was not able to carry his
kind intentions into effect, for at the moment he was
handing some to me, Hassar's men rushed on hira
and got possession of the whole, which they devour-
ed in a minute; there was no getting it back, and
after a long and violent dispute with Hassar and
his company respecting it, he procured another hive,
and being assisted by the man from whom he bought
it, and a number of strangers, he succeeded in dis-
tributing amongst us about three pounds of the
poorest part of tlie comb.
180 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARR'ATlVj;
CHAP. XVL
^he company is divided — they set off to the eastward —
their masters are attacked by a band of robbers.
After we had eaten this, our masters prepared
the camels, and Hassar's company divided, that is to
saj, two men and all the Avomen and children took
the plain great route which led east in a deep vallej,
driving off about one-half of the camels ; Hassar
and the others drove off the rest (including ours)
in a N. E direction, and we with our masters, ac-
companied by two other men, proceeded along the
river's eastern bank to the northward for a short
distance, and then ascended the high, steep, and
craggy mountains eastward of us. The labour m
clambering up these steep precipices is indescribable,-
we continued mounting them as fast as possible for
about four hours, and I was fully convinced our
masters took that route for fear they should be fol-
lowed and surprised in the night by some who had
seen us, and thus be robbed of their slaves and
other property. After climbing over the highest
peaks of these mountains, we saw Hassar and part
of his company who had driven the camels, and
had gotten up by another and more practicable
patho It was now near night, and we travelled
along the craggy steeps, assisting one another over
the most difficult parts, while Hassar sought out the
^easiest places for the ascent of the camels. Coming
SUfTERINGS IX AFRICA. l8l
at length to a small level spot of ground, we saw
some tents, and directed our course towards them :
the tents were twelve in number, and placed in a
semicircle. Having approached to within one hun-
dred yards in front of the largest one, our masters
seated themselves on the ground with their Hacks
towards the tents, and a woman soon came out
bringing a bowl of water, which she presented to
them after the usual salutations of Labez^ &;c. &c.
Our masters drank of the water, and Sidi Hamet
was soon after presented with a bowl filled with
dates lately plucked from the trees, and not fully
ripe: these he gave to us; though Seid, Abdallah, and
Hassar, snatched each a handful, to which we were
forced to submit : we found them excellent, but did
not know at that time what sort of fruit they were.
Here we remained during the night, and rested our
emaciated bodies, which were, if possible, more fa-
tigaed than they ever were before.
October the 21st, we set off to the northward
very early, and made down towards the sea through
numerous steep gullies, and got into the inclined plane
belovv^ the former sea-shore, about mid-day; here
were the same sort of marks in this bank that we
had before observed, and the same signs of its having
been laved by the ocean. We went along through
the same kind of thick bushes as those I have before
described, near to the cliffs that at present formed
a barrier to the mighty waters, where we discover-
ed a number of tents, and soon reached them. Here
our masters, Sidi Hamet and Hassar, were recog-
nized by some of the men, who were in all about
182 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
twenty, with their families : these people had large
sacks of barley with them, which they had procured
far eastward up the country. Sidi Haraet was now
sick with violent pains in his head and in all his
limbs. These people (who were Arabs, as all are
who live in tents in the country) took compassion on
him, and cleared a tent for him to lie under, where
having made up a large fire, he kept his head to-
wards it, turning about and almost roasting his brains,
but obtained no relief from this manner of treating
his disorder; he next had recourse to another sin-
gular remedy: hb had a large knife put into the
fire and heated red hot; then made his brother draw
the back of it, hot as it was, several times across the
top of his head, making it hiss (as may well be sup-
posed) in all directions; — when it had in some mea-
sure cooled, he would again heat it as before, then
making bare his legs and arms, he went through with
the process of striking its back along them at the
distance of three or four inches, scorching off the
skin; and though it made him twitch and jump at
every touch, he continued to do it for the space of
an hour or more. Burns had been very ill for
some time, and was so weak that he scarcely was
able to stand, and could not walk — he was therefore,
always placed on a camel, and as Sidi Hamet was
now applying to himself a remedy for what he
thought ft stroke of the moon, he undertook to ad-
minister the red hot knife to the limbs of poor Burns,
who from mere want of bodily strength was not
able, poor fellow, to jump, but would at ewery touch
cry out, " God have mercy upon me." As I was
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. l83
hungrj, r begged of my masters to let me go and
search for muscles on the sea-beach, (for there was
a hollow at a little distance, through which we might
gain it) but they refused, saying, " to-morrow, if
God please, we shall be on the sea-beach ; there
are no muscles on this part of the coast;" — here,
however, we received a ,good supper of Ihask or
pudding, and rested our wearied limbs under the tent
with our masters.
October the 22d, we went forward, driving our
own camels only ; as Hassar had taken the young
one, we had but three remaining; so we rode by
turns, crossing the deep hollows which had been
worn down by the rains or other causes, until after-
noon, when we were forced to have recourse to the
sea-beach to get past one of these deep places, whose
sides were so steep as to render a passage down it
impracticable. When we gained the beach, we
found ourselves on a narrow strip of land, which was
then dry, the tide being out; this extended in length
eight or ten miles, but from the water's edge to the
perpendicular cliffs on our right, not more than ten
yards: these cliffs appeared to be one hundred and
fifty feet in height. When we came to the sea-water,
I went ir^to it, and let a surf wash over me, that I
might once more feel its refreshing effects ; but my
master, fearing I should be carried away by the re-
ceding waves, told me not to go near them again.
As we proceeded along this narrow beach, and had
passed over half its length, the huge cliffs overhang-
ing us on our right, with the ocean on our left; just
ars we were turning a point, we observed four men.
184 ^ CAPTAIN KILEY's NARRATIVE.
<irmed each with a musket and scimitar, spring from
beneath the juttliig rocks, to intercept our march.
Our masters were at this time on the camels, but
they instantly leaped oif, at the same time unsheath-
ing their guns : to retreat would betray fear, and
lead to inevitable destruction — so they determined
to advance, two against four, and Sidi Hamet, though
still in so weak a state as to be thought incapable of
walking before he saw these men, now ran towards
them with his musket in his hand, while Seid, that
cruel coward, lagged behind— so true it is, that the
most generous and humane men are always the
most courageous. The foe was but a few paces
from us, and stood in a line across the beach — Sidi
Hamet, holding his gun ready to fire — demanded if
it was peace ? while he eyed their countenances to
see if they were deceitful — one of them answered,
" it is peace," and extended his hand to receive that
of Sidi Hamet, who gave him his right hand, sus-
pecting no treachery, but the fellow grasped it fast,
and would have shot him and Seid in a moment, but
at that critical juncture, two of Hassar's men came
in sight, running like the wind towards us, with each
a good double-barrelled gun in his hand, all ready
to fire; the robbers saw them as they turned the
point, and the fellow who had seized Sidi Hamet's
hand, instantly let it go, turning the affair oif Avith a
loud laugh, and saying, he only did it to frighten
him: this excuse was deemed sufficient, merely be-
cause our men did not now feel themselves sufficient-
ly strong to resent this insult, and we proceeded on^
hut these fellows, who were verv stout and active,
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 185
hovered around us, slaves, endeavouring to separate
us from our masters, as it appeared, in the hope of
seizing on us as their own, which Sidi Hamet ob-
serving, ordered me with my men to keep close to
the camels' heels, while he and his company (now
strong, though none of them armed with scimitars)
kept between us and the banditti. When they found
that our masters were too vigilant for them, they
took French leave of us, and ran along the beach
with incredible swiftness, chasing each other, and
taking up and throwing stones, that I should suppose
would weigh from six to eight pounds, with a jerk
that made them whiz through the air like cannon
balls : — they threw them against the cliffs of rocks,
which resounded with the blow, and many of the
stones were dashed to pieces as they struck. I could
see the marks they aimed at, and that the stones
went with great precision, as well as force. I had
before no idea that it was possible for men to acquire
by practice such enormous power of arm; for they
threw these stones with such velocity, that I am con-
vinced they would have killed a man at the distance
of fifty yards at least.
Having come to the end of the beach, we ascend-
ed the bank again, leaving these formidable ruffians
masters of the shore, where they, no doubt, got
some plunder before they left it. After we had
mounted the bank and were clear, Sidi Hamet told
me that the fellows we had met were very bad men,
and would have killed him and Seid, and would have
taken us away where I could never have hoped to
see my wife and children again, if the great God had
B b
186 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
not at that time sent to our relief the two men ; he
then asked if I would fight to save his life ? I told
him I would, and that no one should kill him while
I was alive, if it was in my power to prevent it;
" good Riley, (said he,) you are worth fighting for,
God is with you, or I must have lost my life there.''
CHAP. XVII.
Some fresh fish are procured — they pass several small
walled villages, and meet with robbers on horseback.
Near evening we met and passed a man driving an
ass laden with fish, probably of from ten to twelve
pounds weight each: they had much the shape and
appearance of salmon, and our masters endeavoured
to procure one from the owner forme, as I gave them
to understand I was very fond of fish, and that it
would be good for Burns, but the man would not
part with one of them on any terms. At evening-
we found Hassar's and his family's tents already
pitched on a little hill near the cliffs, and we joined
this company. Soon after, Seid, Abdallah, and two
of Hassar's men, went out with their guns : — in
about two hours, those with us, namely, Sidi Hamet,
Hassar, and two others, hearing footsteps approach-
ing, seized their muskets, and springing forward
from their tents, demanded, Avho came there ? It
was Seid and his company, who came towards me,
and unfdlding a blanket, turned out four large fish
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 187
of the same kind we had seen before. " Riley,
(said Sidi Hamet,) are these good to eat ?" I replied
in the affirmative — " take them and eat them, then,
(said he) but take care, do not choke yourselves with
the bones." I took three of them, cut them into
pieces, and put them into an earthen pot, that be-
longed to Hassar, (this pot the Arabs call gidcrah,^
added some water, and boiled them directly, and we
ate till we were satisfied. We drank the soup,
which was extremely grateful and invigorating, and
helped to check the dysentery, with Avhich we were
all much troubled since eating the honey-comb. We
had travelled this day, I. think, about forty miles,
and slept at night within a circle formed by our
masters and their camels, out of which we were not
suffered to go, as Sidi Hamet told me there were
many robbers in this place, who would seize on us,
and carry us off in a minute, without the possibility
of my ever being restored to my family.
October 21st, at day -break we set forward on
our journey, all in company, (except Hassar and the
women and children. The fresh fish we had eaten
the night before, had made us very thirsty; and
about noon we came to a kind of cistern, or reser-
voir of water on the pathway side: this reservoir
was built of stone and lime ; its top was arched like
a vault, rising about four feet from the ground, and
the cistern was at least eighty feet in length, eight
or ten feet in breadth in the inside, and appeared to^
be twenty feet deep. It was now nearly full of water,
which had been led into it by means of gutters,
formed and arranged so as to receive and conduct
188 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
the t-ain water when It descends from the neio-hbour^
ing hills, and is collected in a stream in this valley.
I understood this water was the common property
of all travellers along this route, and that the cis-
tern was built by a very rich and pious man, solely
for the purpose of refreshing the weary traveller,
and that it contained water the whole year round,
even though there should be a continued drought for
a twelvemonth — but no person of our party ven-
tured to water his camel from it, considering it as
sacred for the use of man alone. We were still
travelling on the slope between the first and second
banks of the sea, which in these parts was much
tut up, occasioned by the waters which had from
time to time poured down from the neighbouring
mountains, and formed steep and very deep gullies,
across which we were obliged to climb. The path
on this inclined plane was not much frequented, and
the margin of the bank on our right hand had been
newly ploughed in many places here and there in
the nooks or fertile hollows. On the high lands we
saw two small walled towns, with prickly-pear
bushes planted around them. Near these towns or
walled villages, some men were employed in plough-
ing with a pair of beasts, generally a cow and an
ass yoked together in a Very singular manner, which
I shall hereafter describe, and others were watching
flocks of sheep and goats on the surrounding emi-
nences, while the women were seen lujro-inof down
wood on their backs from the tops of the lofty hills,
and large jars or pitchers of water from a distant
valley. They generally had a child on their backs,
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 189
clinging with its arms round the neck of the mother,
and the jar or pitcher rested on their shoulders in a
manner that reminded me of the story of the beau-
tiful Rebekah, in holy writ, coming to the well with
her pitcher.
About noon, we came near a considerable walled
village, that stood close by the road; it had gardens
close by the walls on all sides, and there was one
near the gateway planted with prickly-pear.
These gardens were defended by heaps of dry thorn
bushes, which served as an outward defence to the
town ; these heaps were about six feet high, and the
walls fifteen feet. Our masters stopped near the
gate for some moments, and no one seemed disposed
to give them a drink of water, contenting themselves
with gazing at them over the walls; soon they went,
cursing the inhospitality of these villagers. Near
night we descended into a delightful valley, whose
bottom was level and well-disposed into hand-
some gardens, fenced in with thorn bushes and stone
walls, and divided into numerous separate plots.
Round about them, and at their corners, stood many
fine fig-trees, which looked healthy, though they
were leafless, owing to the lateness of the season :
we saw also a few pomegranate-trees. These gar-
dens or plots were planted with dilTerent kinds of
vegetables, such as turnips, cabbage, onions, &c. —
they were watered by a small stream that flowed
from the hills at a short distance above, and w^s
conducted round and through the whole of them by
gutters dug for that purpose.
190 CAPTAIN RTI.Ey's
CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
The owners of these gardens Hved in two little
walled villages, near the top of the bank on the east
side, but they offered us no refreshment. We
passed in the course of the day three beds of
streams or rivers, which were now dry, and one
whose mouth was filled with sand, so as to stop its
communication with the sea, though there was some
water in it, where people from all quarters were
watering their cows, sheep, goats, asses, and camels,
and carrying it off in skins and pitchers. In the af-
ternoon, a company of ten men on horseback, and
well-armed, rode towards us on the plain, making a
loud jingling with their spurs against their stirrups,
and crying out. Hah! hah! hah! hah! Our com-
pany consisted of -our two masters, and two of Has-
sar's men, Abdallah, and one stranger, who had
joined us that day, and being armed with five dou-
ble-barrelled muskets, and some scimitars, they all
sprang from their camels on the approach of the
strangers, drew their guns from their sheaths,
primed them anew, and took a station in front of
their property, in a line ready for action.
The horsemen rode up to within five yards of our
men at full speed, and then stopped their horses
short. I expected now to see a battle, though I
rather feared our men would be trampled to death
by the horses ; for their arms could not have saved
them from the shock of this impetuous onset, yet
they were on the point of firing the moment the
horses stopped. The chief of the horsemen then
demanded in a very imperious tone who our masters
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. I9l
were ? where they came from ? if they knew Sidi
Ishem? what countrymen we, their slaves, were?
and where they had found us? Sidi Harnet replied
to all their questions in a sharp quick manner, and as
briefly as possible, and in his turn demanded, " who
are you? where do you come from ? and, what right
have you to ride up to me in such a manner, and
stop me and my slaves on the road?" This is as near
as I could understand what they said. A loud dis-
pute was kept up on both sides for half an hour,
when it ceased, and we were allowed to proceed;
while the others rode oS to the southward amon^
the mountains. The force on both sides was so
nearly equal, that I have little doubt this was the
only circumstance that prevented a battle.
We travelled on till long after dark, when we
came to a number of tents, and stopped for tlte
night, and here we were treated with some dried
muscles and barley pudding. Hassar and his family
had not travelled with us the last day, but the two
men who had assisted in relieving us from our cri-
tical situation on the beach, were in company, and
we had also been joined by one more Arab, and two
camels. Ever since we had come to the cultivated
country, off the desart, we had found the people
sickly; many of them were afflicted with swelled
legs, and some with what I took to be the leprosy;
and also with pains in ditferent parts of their bodies
and limbs ; though when on the desart we did not
see the smallest sign of sickness or disorder among
its inhabitants. They now considered us as skilled
in medicine, and consulted me wherever I came ; one
192 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
of the women here had a swelled breast, which was
astonishingly large, and very much inflamed : she
was in such pain as to crj out at every breath.
They wished me to examine it, and prescribe a re-
medy, which I did by recommending a poultice of
the barley Ihash, or pudding, to be applied, and re-
newed often until the swelling should subside or
burst. The woman was very thankful, gave me a
drink of water and a handful of muscles, and re-
quested I would examine a swelled leg of her bro-
ther; this was also inflamed, and very painful : — per-
ceiving no skin broken, I directed a thick plaster of
coarse salt to be bound round it, so as fully to cover
the afflicted part; this they did immediately, and
the man thought he felt instantaneous relief
From the great expedition we had used, I think
we must have travelled this day about fifty miles,
as we were almost continually on the camels, and
they going a great part of the time on a trot. In
the afternoon of this day, we discovered land that
was very high, a good way eastward of us, stretch-
ing about north as far as the eye could reach. We
saw it when on a high hill and at an immense dis-
tance; looking over the ocean, which was near us, it
appeared hke a high and distant island: "there is
Swearah, Riley," (said Sidi Hamet) pointing to the
northernmost land in view : it was a great way off.
I asked him how many days it would take us to get
there ? he answered, " ten, at our slow pace."
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. * ] 93
CHAP. XVIII.
Their masters commit an error^ tuhich ikey are compel-
led to redress — Sidi Hamet and his brother Seid
fight — Horac informed me he
had been many times in Swearah, and had seen the
consuls, and wished me 'to repeat my promise to
Sidi Hamet, which I did. He had a lamp for a light,
so that he could see every motion that I made well
enough to comprehend me entirely. By this time
some cakes had been baked, which were presented
to our masters, and of which they gave us some :
these cakes were made of barley meal, ground
coarse ; yet it was bread, and it being the first we
had seen, we ate a little of it, though our stomachs
were not yet prepared to enjoy the treat. After
they had eaten and washed their hands and feet, and
talked over their aOairs, Sidi Hamet again called me
to liim, and told me he should set out in the morning
for Swearah in company with our host, Sidi Moham-
med, where he hoped, with God's blessing, to arrive
in three days, for he should travel on a mule, buge-
iah, and push on night and day : that I must write
«, letter to my friend, which he would carry, and
said he, " if your friend will fulfil your engagements
and pay the money for you and your men, you shall
be free ; if not, you must die, for having deceived
me, and your men shall be sold for what they will
bring. I have fought for you, (added he) have suf-
fered hunger, thirst, and fatigue, to restore you to
your family, for I believe God is with you. I have
paid away all my money on your word alone: Seid
and Bo-Mohammed will stay and guard you during
my absence; they will give you as much kfiobs
(bread) and riiash (pudding) as you can eat; so go
and sleep till morning.*' This night was spent on
204 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
my part in a state of anxiety not easy to conceive.*
to whom should I write ? I knew no body at Moga-
dore, and yet I must take my chance. I remember-
ed my remarkable dream — it had literally come to
pass thus far, — why should I doubt its whole accom-
plishment ; yet I could not rest.
CHAP. XIX.
The author writes a letter — Sidi Hamet sets out with it
for Swearah — the arrival of Sheick Ali, an extraor^
dinary character,
^ARLY the next morning we were called up and
clirected to go within the gates. My master said to
me— "come, Riley, write a letter," giving me at the
same time a scrap of paper^ not so wide as my hand,
and about eight inches long ; he had also got a little
black staining liquid and a reed to write with. I
oow begged hard to be taken along with him, but he
would not consent, though I told him I Would leave
my son, whom I loved more than myself, behind me
as an hostage, and three men ; but all would not do,
the thing was determined on. He then told me,
that what I had agreed to give him was not suffi-
cient ; that I must tell my friend, in the letter, to pay
iwo hundred dollars cr myself, two hundred for
Horace, two hundred for Aaron, one hundred and
sixty for Clark, and the same for Burns, adding that
I had promised hira a good double-barrelled gun^
S'UFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 205
and I must give him that, and one to Seid also.
''<■ Seid is a bad man, (said he) but helped to save
your life, and must have a gun." So I took the reed,
and wrote on the slip of paper, as near as I can re-
collect, the following letter.
•
"Sir,
" The brig Commerce from Gibraltar for Ameri-
ca, was wrecked on Cape Bajador, on the 28th
August last ; myself and four of my crew are here
nearly naked in Barbarian slavery: 1 conjure you
by all the ties that bind man to man, by those of
kindred blood, and every thing you hold most dear,
and by as much as liberty is dearer than life, to ad-
vance the money required for our redemption, which
is nine hundred and twenty dollars, and two double-
barrelled guns : I can draw for any amount, the
moment I am at liberty, on Batard, Sampson &
Sharp, London — Cropper & Benson, Liverpool —
Munroe & Burton, Lisbon, or on Horatio Sprague,
Gibraltar. Should you not relieve me, my life must
instantly pay the forfeit. I leave a wife and five
helpless children to deplore my death. My com-
panions are Aaron B. Savage, Horace Savage, James
Clark, and Thomas Burns. I left six more in
slavery on the desart. My present master, Sidi
Hamet, will hand you this, and tell you where we
are — he is a worthy man. Worn down to the bones
by the most dreadful of all sufferings — naked and a
slave, I implore your pity, and trust that such dis-
tress will not be suffered to plead in vain. For
206 CAPTALX RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
God's sake, send an interpreter and a guard for us,
if that is possible. I speak French and Spanish.
James Riley, late Master and Super-
cargo of the brig Commerce.
While I was writing the above, they procured an
additional scrap of paper, being a part of a Spanish
bill of lading, on which I wrote a part of ray letter,
that could not be written legibly on the first scrap.
Having folded them up, I dii-ected them to the ''Eng-
lish, French, vSpanish, or American consuls, or any
Christian merchants in Mogadore or Swearah." I
purposely omitted mentioning that we were Ameri-
cans, because I did not know that there was an
American ajrent there, 'fend I had no doubt of there
being an English consul or agent in that place. My
master was hurrying me while I was writing, and
both he and my host, Seid, and the young man, and
many others who stood by, were surprised to see
me make the Arabic numerals ; for the characters
we use in arithmetic are no other than the real an-
cient Arabic fijrures, which have served them for
thousands of years; they remarked to each other
that I must have been a slave before, to some Ara-
bian who had taught me the use of them, contrary
to their law, because he had found me to be a smart
active fellow. My master taking my letter, then
mounted one mule, and Sidi Mohammed another,
and rode off together very fast to the east.
We remained here seven days, during which time
ibey kept us shut up in the yard in the day time.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 207
where tlic cows, sheep, and asses rested, and at
night they locked us up in a dreary cellar. Seid and
Bo Mohammed guarded us all the day, not because
they feared we would attempt to escape, but because
some of the neighbouring people might steal and
run off with us, and in the night time they lay on
their arms outside the door, to prevent a surprise.
We had as much barley-bread twice a day as we
wanted, I'hash once a day, and plenty of water.
This food, though palatable, produced and kept up
a continual dysentery ; our bowels seemed to fer-
ment like beer, and we were tortured with cholics.
Our numerous sores had now time to heal, and our
bodies became mostly skinned over before our mas-
ters returned ; but the ho^morroids distressed us es-
tremely. Ail the inhabitants who lived near, and all
those who Tieard that Christians were in the place,
(for they call all Europeans Christians) came to see
us. Some werevery familiar, and all wished to
know if we were mechanics : from that circumstance
I concluded that mechanics were very much wanted,
and of great importance among tiiese people, and
that there would be no possibility of getting clear of
them, if once they should find out our usefulness in
that way. I therefore told them that we were all
brought up sailors from our childhood, and knew no
other business. One tried to make me lay out and
hew a }«air of posts for a door to a house that was
building within the walls of the village, and gave
me a line to measure the length of them, and tried
to teach me to span it otf; but I would not under-
stand him. They next put a kind of adze into my
208 CAPTAIN KILEif's NARRATIVE.
hand, and bade me lit the posts In. I took the tool,
and began to cut at random, gouging out a piece
here, and sphtting it there, doing more hurt than
good ; and, at the same time, by my awkward and
clumsy manner, taking care to make them believe
that I could do no better. Some were satisfied that
I had done my very best, but by far the greater part
of them were of opinion that a smart application of
^he whip would put my mechanical powers into
complete operation, and I really expected they would
apply this stimulus; for one of them ran and fetched
a stout stick, and was about to lay it on, when Bo
Mohammed, who represented Sidi Hamet, interfered
and saved me from a cudgelling. Mr. Savage, Clark,
Burns, and Horace, were each tried in their turns,
who following my instructions, were soon relieved
from all further requisition. From this circumstance
it is evident, that the less useful a Christian makes
himself when a slave to the Arabs, especially in a
mechanical way, the less value they will set upon
him, and he will not only have a chance of getting
ransomed, but it may be effected on easier terms
than otherwise; for I am fully convinced, that if we
had shown ourselves capable in those arts, which the
Arabs highly prize, such as carpenters, smiths, shoe-
makers, &c. &c. we should have been sold at high
prices, and soon carried away beyond the possibility
of redemption.
Four days after Sidi Hamet's departure, some pa-
pers were shown to me by one of the men who lived
in the neighbourhood, which I found, on examination,
■to he, first, the register of the Spanish schooner
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 209
Maria, issued by the custom-house at Cadiz
in May 1^U4; second — a bill of sale of the same
schooner, made out at the island of Grand Canary
in 1812, of the same date with the register. Many
articles of clothing that had belonged to her crew
were also shown me ; and the topmast, jib-boom, and
other small spars of a vessel, served to support the
floor over our nightly prison. I made inquiries, as
far as it was possible, in order to find out something
respecting this vessel, which I presumed must have
been wrecked near this place ; and was informed
that the preceding year a schooner anchored on
this part of the coast to catch fish, and to trade;
that these people found means to get alongside of
her in the night in boats, and after killing the cap-
tain and three men, got possession of her ; when hav-
ing taken out the money and other valuables, they
cut her cables, and ran her on shore : that they then
made the surviving part of the crew assist in tearing
the wreck to pieces, and in carrying it up to build
houses with. I asked bow many people were on
board her, and where the remainder of the crew
were ; and was informed, by a serious looking old
man, that it consisted of seventeen souls at first;
that four were slain in the conflict when she was
captured; that five more had died since, and that the
remaining eight were a great way off to the south-
east, where they were employed in working on the
land and making houses. Others said, they had
gone to Swearah, and from thence to their own
country ; but I could easily perceive by their looks
that those poor fellows had either been massacred,
E e
210 CAPTAIN RlLEY^S NARRATIVE,
or were now held in slavery^ where neither the voice
of Hberty, nor the hand of friendship, was ever hke-
\y to reach them. The people here, both old and
young, could speak many words of Spanish, though
they did not know their meaning, but made use of
them at a venture at all times — these were a set of
the very coarsest and most vulgar words the Spanish
language affords, and had been uttered, no doubt,
by poor unfortunate slaves, natives of Spain, when
they were suffering the greatest misery, and when
execrating these savages. One young fellow spoke
several words of English, such'as, " good morning —
good night," &lc. and was master of a considerable
list of curses. He one day came up to Mr. Savage,
and said—" button, cut it wit a nif,*' and at the same
time laid hold of a button on his pantaloons. Mr.
Savage was very much surprised to hear a language
he could understand, but these words and the oaths
and curses constituted the whole of his Enorlish
education. Every person here had either a long
knife or a scimitar always slung by his side. Among
the rest, several negroes came to look at us, some
of whom were slaves and some free, and they were
all Moliammedans — 'these were allowed to sit on a
mat beside our masters, and make remarks on us as
we were placed among the fresh manure 'at a short
distance. Seid desired to know what we called
black men; I told him negroes, at which name the
negroes seemed very indignant, and much enraged.
On the sixth day of my master's absence, a man
arrived and took up his lodging with our guards-—
he was about six feet in height, and proportionably
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 211
stout; his colour was something between that of a
negro and an Arab; when he came in he was saluted
bj Seid and the others in company bj the name oi
Sheick Ali^ (or Ah the chief.) This man possessed
talents of that superior cast which never fail to
command the greatest respect, and at the same time
to inspire dread, awe, and reverence. He appeared
to be only a guest or visitor. In his deportment be
was grave and dignified : he raised his voice on oc-
casions terribly, and spoke in tones almost of thun-
der; yet when he wished to please by condescen-
sion and courtesy, it thrilled on the ear like sounds
of softest music; his manner and air were very
commanding, and his whole aspect and demeanour
bore the stamp of the most daring courage and un-
flinching firmness. He was the most eloquent man
I had ever heard speak ; persuasion dwelt upon his
tongue ; while he spoke, all the company observed
the most profound silence, and with open mouths
seemed to inhale his honied sentences. He pro-
nounced with the most perfect emphasis ; the ele-
gant cadence so much admired in eastern oratory
seemed to have acquired new beauties from his
manner of delivery : his articulatioH was so clear
and distinct, and his countenance and actions so in-
telligent and expressive, that I could understand
him perfectly, though he spoke in the Arabic lan-
guage. He would settle all controverted points
among the disputants when applied to, in an instant,
and yet with the utmost gracefulness and dignity.
This extraordinary chief was often conversing in a
low tone of voice with Seid respecting me and my
^12 CAPTAIN riley's warrativ;e.
tnen — he said he beheved me to be a very artful fel;
low, and capable of any action, either good or bad;
And said he did not doubt but my friends would
raise any sum of money that might be demanded for
my ransom. He regretted very much that he had
not seen Sidi Hamet before he set out for Swearah,
and concluded to remain with us until his return.
He questioned me very particularly as to my country,
my friends, family, property, &lc. — he also wished
to know all the story of my shipwreck, and was
Very curious to find out what quantity of money and
what other property fell into the hands of those who
first met with us after the vessel was wrecked, and
w^hat crime was committed to induce these Mosle-
min to kill Antonio. He next examined our bo-
dies all over, and on one of Clark's arms his atten-
tion was arrested by a cross, and several other
marks of Christian insignia that had been pricked in
with Indian ink, in the manner of the Spanish and
other sailors; the stain remained entire, though the
skin had many times been changed, and now seemed
drawn tight over the bone. This being a conclusive
proof in the Sheick's mind of Christianity^ he pro-
nounced him " a Spaniard," and said he should not
be redeemed, but must go to the mountains, and
work with him. Every thing that this man said,
seemed to carry with it a weight that bore down all
opposition.
We had, during Sidi Hamet's absence, (after the
fifth day) been in constant expectation of receiving
tiews from him, or that he himself would return, and
our keepers inquired of every stranger who canle
S.UFPER1NGS iiV AFRICA. 2 13
from the eastward, if they had seen him, but ob-
tained no news until the seventh dayj when one of
the most fierce and ill-looking men I had ever be-
held, approached the wall, and hailed Scid by name,
ordering him in animperious tone to open the gate
directly. Seid demanded to know who he was — he
replied, Ullah Omar ; that he came from Swearah,
and had met Sidi Hamet near that place, W'ho re-
quested him to call and tell Seid where he was, and
that God had prospered his journey so far. The
gate was now opened, and the stranger entered :
he was of a dark complexion, nearly six feet in
height, and extremely muscular; had a long musket
in his hand, a pair of horse pistols hanging in his belt,
and a scimitar and two long knives slung by his
jides, with the haick or blanket for a dress, and a
large white turban on his head ; he had a pair of
long iron spurs, which were fastened to his slippers
of yellow Morocco leather; ho rode a beautiful
horse, which seemed fleet and vigorous, and he ap-
peared to be about forty years of age. This was
the first man I had seen harnessed in this way.
Sheick AH knew him, and shook him most cordially
by the hand, and after exchanging salutations all
tound, hearing I was the captain, he addressed me,
and told me he had seen my friend, Sidi Hamet;
that he met him within one day's ride of Swearah;
that he would no doubt be here on the morrow, for
that God had prospered his journey on account of
me, and added, that he hoped my friend in Swearah
or Mogdola would be as true to me as Sidi Hamet
was : he then spoke to all my men, who, though
214 CAPTAIN RILEV'S NARRATIVE.
they did not understand him, yet were rejoiced to
hear, tlirough me, that there was a prospect of my
master's returning soon. This man had two powder
horns slung- from his neck, and a pouch, in which he
carried a wooden pipe and some tobacco, besides a
plenty of leaden balls and slugs. My shipmates
wanted some tobacco very much, and I asked him
for a little, upon which he gave me a handful of
very good tobacco, and seemed exceedingly pleased
to have it in his power to administer comfort to such
miserable beings. 1 imagined from his whole de-
portment that he resembled one of those high-spi-
rited, heroic, and generous robbers, that are so ad-
mirably described in ancient history. Seid furnished
him with some food, which I now learned they called
cous-koo-soo, with some slices of pumpion or squash
spread over it in the bowl, and well peppered. This
dish, which is made of small balls of flour, boiled
with a fowl and vegetables, looked (for I had not
the pleasure of tasting it) like a very nice dish.
After they had washed, drank water, eaten, washed
again, and prayed together, Ullah Omar took his
leave. Durina; the whole of the time we remained
here, our keepers washed themselves all over Avith
water twice a day, before mid-day and evening
prayers, and always washed their hands before and
after eating.
The state of my mind, in the me^intime, can be
more easily conceived than described: during this
day and the next, which was the eighth. I longed to
know my fate ; and yet I must own, I trembled at
the thoughts of what it might be, and at the condi-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 215
tions I had myself proposed at my last purchase,
and had so often since confirmed. If my master
should find no one who should be willing to pay the
money for my redemption, my fate was sealed. J
had already agreed to have my throat cut! this
could not be prevented; yet when I made this
agreement I was naked and on a vast and dreary
desart, literally without a skin ; my remaining flesh
was roasted on my body ; not a drop of fresh water
to quench my burning thirst, nor even an herb or
any other thing to satisfy the cravings of hunger:
my life was fast wasting away, and there was not
even a hope remaining, or a possibility of existing
long in my then forlorn condition : both myself and
my companions would have sold our lives for a drink
of fresh water or a morsel of bread. In that most
dismal and desperate situation, I imagined that if I
could once get to the cultivated country beyond the
desart, I should find some food to support nature,
and fresh water to allay our thirst. My remarkable
dream had also given me courage to hope for re-
demption; but if I was not redeemed myself, I felt
it my duty to exert myself to the utmost to pre-
serve the lives of ray shipmates; they might, some
of them, I fancied, possibly survive, even though I
should not, and be at length restored to their coun-
try and friends, in consequence of my exertions, and
convey to my distressed family the sad tidings of
my wretched fate. Circumstances were now
changed ; I had passed the dangers of the desart^,
and arrived in the cultivated country; we had now
plenty of good water, and some food and shelter;
216 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE,
and though my flesh was nearly all wasted awaj,
yet a new skin had succeeded, and nearly covered my
bones. My desire to live, kept pace with the in-
crease of my comforts; I longed for the return of
my master, and yet I anticipated it with the most
fearful and dreadful apprehensions. I could not
sleep : alternate hope and fear kept me in a state of
continual agitation. I calculated on the moment of
his arrival as decisive of my fate. It would either
restore me to liberty, or doom me to instant death ;
I trembled at every noise occasioned by the opening
ef the gate, on any new arrival.
CHAP. XX.
v4 Moor arrives from Mogadore^ bringing a letter — the
letter — they set out for that city.
The eighth day of my master's absence passed
tediously away ; when after dark we heard a tramp-
ling outside the walls : Seid went forth to learn its
cause, and soon returned with Sidi Mohammed, fol-
lowed by a well looking Moor : they came directly to
that part of the yard where we were sitting on the
ground, trembling with apprehension and with cold.
When they came near me, the Moor called out and said,
in English, " How de-do, Capetan." This raised me
and all my men from the ground ; I felt as if my heart
was forcing its way up into my throat, and it entirely
obstructed mv breath. I eagerly seized his hand, and
SUFFERING^ IN AFRICA, 217
begged to know who he was, and what was my doom,
and if Sidi Hamet had come back ; he then asked me
in Spanish, if I spoke that language, and being answer-
ed in the affirmative, he informed me in Spanish, that
he came from Mogadore ; that my letter had been
received by one of the best of men, an Englishman,
who was his friend, and who had shed tears on read,
ing my letter: that he had paid the money to my
master immediately, and had sent him (the Moor) off,
without giving him scarcely a moment's time to take
leave of his wife, and that he had been on his mule
ever since h,-? left Swearah, travelling on as fast as
possible, night and day. The anxiety of my compa-
nions by this time had risen to such a pitch, that they
broke in upon his story, on which I communicated to
them the thrice welcome and happy intelligence, that
we had a friend who would redeem us from slavery.
Our souls were overvi'helmed with joy, and yet we
trembled with apprehension lest it might not be true :
alas ! perhaps it was only a delusive dream, or sorae
cruel trick to turn our miseries into mockery. At
this moment however the Moor handed me a letter :
I broke it open; but my emotions were such, that it
was imposssible for me to read its contents, and I
handed it to Mr. Savage ; for my frame trembled to
such a degree, that I could not stand, and I sunk to the
earth, but, thank God, not senseless ; while, by means
of the light of a fire, he read as follows : —
Mogadore, October 25, 1815.
My dear and afflicted sir,
I have this moment received your two not^s
bv ^idi Hamet, the contents of which, I hope,
■ rf
218 CAPTAIN RILEY> NARRATIVE.
you will be perfectly assured have called forth my
most sincere pity for your sufferings and those of your
companions in captivity.
By a Gibraltar paper I discover, under the arrivals
from the 5th to the 11th August, the name of your
vessel, and that she was American, from which I con-
clude both you and your crew must be subjects of
the United States : had it not been for the paper
adverted to, some delay would have occurred, as yoir
do not state in your notes to what nation you belongs
I congratulate you most sincerely on the good for-
tune you and your fellow sufferers have ftiet, by being
in the hands of a man who seems to be guided by
some degree of commiseration.
I can in some measure participate in the severe and
dangerous sufferings and hardships you must have
undergone; but, my dear Sir, console yourself, for,
thanks be to God, I hope they will soon have a happy
issue; for which purpose I devoutly pray the great
Disposerofallthings will give you and your unfortunate
companions health and strength once more to visit
your native land.
This letter will be delivered you by RaisbelCossim^
In whom you may place the fullest faith ; he speaks
Spanish, and has directions to pay attention to your or-
ders,andrenderyou every care yoursevere misfortunes
may require: — be pleased to write me an immediate
answer, stating every particular relating to yourself,
your crew, and vessel, as I have given orders to the
Moor to forward it to me without delay.
I have agreed to pay the sura of nine hundred and
twenty hard dollars to Sidi Haraet on your safe ani-
\
SUFFERINGS lli AFRICA. 219
val in this town with your fellow sufferers; he re-
mains here as a kind of hostage for your safe ap-
pearance.
I have been induced to trust implicitly to your word»
and the respectable references you have given, in
CDnfidence that those gentlemen, or yourself, will
readily reimburse me the whole of the expenses tjjat
may be incurred in obtaining your redemption.
I have the most sincere pleasure to acquaint you,
you will be at liberty to commence your journey for
this town on the receipt of this letter, and make
what stages you please on the road, as I do not ad-
vise you, in the eagerness all of you must feel, to
run into danger by over-exertion and fatigue : I
would, therefore, recommend the greatest precau-
tion on this point. I have sent under charge of
Rais bel Cossim, shoes and cloaks, which I have no
doubt you will find very useful in preserving you
from rain or cold on the road.
I have also forwarded you some provisions and
spirits, that you may enjoy a foretaste of returning
liberty.
I beg to recommend the greatest secrecy of your
circumstances until your arrival here, for should the
Moors suppose you able to pay more, they would
throw difficulties in the way, and thereby much re-
tard your redemption.
I shall send off an express to-morrow to the Uni-
^d States' Consul General at Tangier, and a letter
to Mr. Horatio Sprague of Gibraltar, informing them
of your loss, and of the favourable hopes I enter-
tVm of your immediate release.
220 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE^
I have appointed with Rais bel Cossim, on your
arrival at a short distance from Mogadore, to wait
at the garden of a friend of mine, and send me no-
tice of the same, when I shall immediately set out
to meet you.
I trust there is no occasion for me to say how
truly I commiserate and enter into all your misfor-
tunes: when God grants me the pleasure to embrace
you, it will be to me a day of true rejoicing. — I beg
you will assure every one with you of my truest re-
gard; and with sentiments embittered by the thoughts
of the miseries you have undergone, but with the
most sanguine hope of a happy end to all your suf-
ferings, I subscribe myself, with the greatest esteem,
my dear Sir, your friend,
William Willshire.
P. S. I willingly agree to advance the money,
considering a month or more must elapse before I
coiiid receive an answer from Mr. Sprague. I there-
fore concluded you would prefer being at liberty in
this town, to experiencing a prolongation of your
sufferings during that period. I shall be happy in
rendering you every comfort that my house and this
country can alford. W. W.
My feelings, during the reading of this letter, may
Tjprhaps be conceived, but I cannot attempt to de-
scribe them; to form an idea of my emotions at
that time, it is necessary for the reader to trans^-
port himself in imagination to the country where I
then was, a wretched slave, and to fancy himself as
SiJFJt^RlNCiS IN AFKICA. 221
having passed thronorh all the dangers and distresses
that I had experienced: reduced to the lowest pitch
of human wretchedness, degradation, and despair, a
skinless skeleton, expecting death at every instant:
then let him fancy himseli' receiving such a letter
from a perfect stranger, whos'e name he had never
before heard, and from a place where there was not
an individual creature that had ever before heard of
his existence, and in one of the most barbarous re-
«:ions of the habitable jjlobe : let him receive at the
same time clothes to cover and deiend his naked,
emaciated, and trembling frame, shoes for his man-
gled feet, and such provisions as he had been accus-
tomed to in his happier days — let him find a soothing
and sympathizing friend in a barbarian, and one who
spoke perfectly well the language of a Christian na-
tion ; and with all this, let him behold a prospect of
a speedy liberation and restoration to his beloved
family : — here let him pause, and his heart must, like
mine, expand near to bursting with gratitude to his
all-wise and beneficent Creator, who had upheld his
tottering frame, and preserved in his bosom the vital
spark, while he conducted him, with unerring wis-
dom and goodness, through the greatest perils and
sufferings, by a continued miracle, and now prepared
the heart of a stranger to accomplish what had been
before determined.
The letter being finished, we could only raise our
eyes and hearts to heaven in adoration and sihnt
thankfulness, while tears of joy trickled down our
haggard cheeks. Amidst these joyful and heart-
thriUlng gensa.tions, my attention was aroused by
222 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the thundering voice of Sheick Ali, who stormed
away most furiously on being informed that Sidi
Hamet had given up me and my companions for such
a paltry sum ; — he said, Sidi Hamet must be a fool
and a madman to put himself in the power of a vil-
lanous Christian, who would undoubtedly murder
him and take back his money so soon as we should
arrive in Swearah. The Moor, who had hitherto
remained silent, now spoke out in a very spirited
manner, and told the Sheick in a very firm, but elo-
quent and persuasive tone, that he had bougiit me
and my companions with his own money, which he
fead paid to Sidi Hamet before he left Swearah; and
that he (Sidi Hamet) remained there voluntarily as
a hostage for his {^Raisbel Cosshn's) safety, as well as
security for the delivery of the slaves.
" We are of the same religion, (added Rais) and
owe these Christian dogs nothing; but we have an
undoubted right to make merchandise of them, and
oblige them to carry our burdens like camels.
That fellow (said he, pointing to me) calls himself
the captain of a vessel, — he has deceived his mas-
ter and you ; for he was nothing more than cook
on board, and the captain has long been dead."
This the Sheick would not believe, if it was so ; how
could I write a note to induce a stranger to pay so
much money for me and my men } " It was only a
■short one, (added he) and its writer must be a man
of much consequence, as well as knowledge. I
fear you (though a Moslemin) have leagued with a
Christian against Sidi" Hamet, first to rob him of his
slaves, and then to take his life." " No-^by Allah ! I
SUFFERLXGS IN AFRICA- 2'2.j
am incapable of such an act of treachery," (retorted
Rais) and told the Sheick I was indeed the cook,
but beins: a stout fellow, had been able to endure
fatigues better than the others: " but (added he) give
them paper, pen, and ink, and they will soon con-
vince you they can all write, and much belter than
Riley." This controversy continued a long time, and
I found that Rais bel Cossim was a man of great
<K>urage, as well as knowledge and eloquence; and
he certainly displayed great address and manage-
ment in checkinir the avaricious calculations of the
Sheick, by insisting upon my not being a captain,
and thus depreciating my value as a slave. Seid
seemed to have sunken into a kind of sullen silence;
it was now late, and Sidi Mohammed conducted the
whole company into an apartment that had served,
from appearances, as a stable for mules. They
had loudly insisted that we should lodge in the
same place where we had been before confined, but
Rais would not consent, and declared that his slaves
should stay by his side, both night and day. They
had cost him a great deal of money, (he said) and
he was determined not to lose them. Having thus
got into comfortable quarters, our cloaks were pro-
duced from a basket, and we put them on. Our
friend had sent us some hard biscuits, and boiled
neats' tongues — he had also forwarded tea, coffee,
and sugar, and a few bottles of rum, with a tea-
kettle, tea-pot, cups and saucers, all nicely packed
up in a small box. Rais then procured a hghted
lamp, and I gave each of my men a slice of tongue,
some biscuit, and a drink of rum : — this revived thek
224 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIYE.
spirits exceedingly, and we all felt as if new life was
infused into our hearts, which at the same time
swelled with gratitude to God for his infinite mercy
and goodness. We were next regaled with a very
fine water-melon; and having put on our new shoes
to make our feet warm, and wrapped ourselves up
in large cloaks or gzlabbias, we stretched ourselves
on the ground to sleep, whilst Rais, Seid, and his
companion, Bo-Mohammed, and Sheick Ali, laid
themselves down on a platform made of boards that
must have been brought from the wreck of some
vessel, and was raised two feet from the ground.
The food which I and my companions had eaten»
together with the melon and liquor, caused us such
violent griping pains in our stomachs and intestines,
that we could with great difficulty forbear screaming
out with agony, and we found no rehef till morning,
after having passed a sleepless night.
Early in the morning, Rais desired me, in Arabic^
to make some tea — ^so I took out the kettle, had it
filled with water, made a fire wjih a few sticks, and
soon had the tea ready for drinking. The men and
boys in and near this village, hearing of Sidi Mo-
hammed's return to his family, came now to con-
orratulate him, and to see the Moor, who directed me
to pour out a cup of tea for each of the men, which
he made thick with sugar. None of the people had
ever before seen such a thing as a tea-cup, nor knew
what the taste of tea was, and it was with difficulty
that several of them could be persuaded to driukit,
and .they appeared to be reconciled to it only on ac-
co^mt of the su2:ar. I waited on them all until the^
fijJUPFERINGS IN AFRICA. 225
had finished; when Rais, turning to Sheick Ali, said,
" I told you before that Riley was the cook, and now
you see with your own eyes that he is the only one
that can wait upon us." I next made a strong cup
of tea for ourselves, which had a most remarkable
effect in composing and restoring the tone of our
stomachs.
All our things being soon packed up and loaded
on mules, we set forward at about eight o'clock.
The Moor had tried to procure mules for us to
ride on; but they could not be had in this part of
the country at any price. Our company consisted
of Sheick Jtli^ Sidi Mohammed^ (who had been to
Swearah on our account) Seid^ our master, Bo-Mo-
hammed^ (who had assisted in guarding us) and Rais
bel Cossim, all well armed. Though he could pro-
cure no beasts, exclusively for our use, yet Rais
managed in such a manner as to let us ride by turns,
and Burns all the time, for he was so feeble as not
to be able to walk. So soon as we were on the
road, Rais bel Cossim begged me to give him an ac-
count of my misfortunes and sufferings, and by what
miracle my life and the hves of those who were with
me had been preserved — I satisfied his curiosity as
well as I could by a short narration of the most
prominent occurrences. When I had finished, he
raised his eyes towards heaven with an air and ex~
pression of true devotion, and exclaimed in Spanish,
" Praised be God, the most high and holy ! for his
goodness:" then addressing himself to me, he re-
marked, '' You have indeed been preserved jinost
wonderfully by the peculiar protection and assist-
226 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
ance of an overruling Providence, and must be a
particular favourite of heaven : there never was an
instance (added he) of a Christian's passing the
great desart for such a distance before, and you are
no doubt destined to do some great good in the
world; and may the Almighty continue to preserve
you, and restore you to your distressed family.
Sidi Hamet (added he) admired your conduct, cour-
age, and intelligence, and says they are more than
human — that God is with you in all your transac-
tions, and has blessed him for your sake." I men-
tion this conversation to show the light in which my
master had viewed me, and this will account for th»
interest he took in my restoration to liberty, over and
above his motives of gain.
I now inquired who Sheick All was, and why he
was going on in company; and said, I much feared
him. Rais informed me that all he knew about him,
he had learned from Sidi Mohammed, which was,
that he is the chief of a very large and powerful
tribe of Arabs, who inhabit the hills south of us,
and near the borders of the great desart; that Sidi
Hamet har^-Hiarried one of his daughters, but had
since been at war with him, and that in the contest
his father-in-law had destroyed Sidi Hamet's town,
and taken back his daughter, but afterwards resto-
red her again on making peace — that this Sheick
could bring ten or fifteen thousand men into the field
whenever he pleased, and that he was a man of the
greatest talents and capacity in war, as well as in
peace ; but why he was going on in our company in
this manner, he could not toll, and agreed with me.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 227
m suspecting that it could be for no good purpose,
jet he observed, " God could turn his evil inten-
tions to our good, and that that power which had
protected me thus far, would not forsake me antil
his will was accomplished."
CHAP. XXI.
They come near the ruins of a city where two battering
machines are standing — description of them — story
of its destruction — they cross a river and a fruitful
valley — lodge in a city, and are afterwards stopped
by Sheick Ali and the prince of another city.
We travelled on io a south-east direction through
a verj sandy country, with however here and there
a small rising, and a few cultivated spots, for about
five hours, at the rate of five miles an hour, when
we came opposite the shattered walls of a desolate
town or city that stood not far from our path on the
right. These walls appeared to enclose a square
spot of about three hundred yards in extent on each
side, and they seemed to be at least fifteen feet in
height. They were built of rough stones, laid in
clay or mud, and partly daubed over with the same
material. On the north side, there was a gateway
handsomely arched over with stone, and furnished
with a strong heavy-looking wooden gate that was
now shut. Over the gate there appeared to be a
platform for the purpose of defending the gate, for
228 CAPTAIN riley's NARRAT1\^.
the wall was not quite so high in that part as else-
where. Two battering machines were standing
against the western angle of the wall, opposite to
which a large practicable breach had been made by
means of one of those machines. They were both
very simple in their structure, but calculated to be
very powerful in their effects. I could distinctly
see and examine with my eyes the one nearest to us.
It was formed, as it appeared to me, in the first place,
by laying down two large logs of wood at right an-
gles with the wall, and about fifteen feet apart, the
ends of the logs butting against the wall. (See plate,
figure 4.) Into the upper side of each of these logs"
a nitch or mortise was cut to receive the thick ends
of two uprights, consisting of two rough trunks of
trees, of about twelve inches in diameter at their
base, of equal lengths, and rising to the height of
about twenty-five or thirty feet. Each upright had
a crotch in its upper end, formed by the natural
branching of the two principal limbs of the tree,
like a common country well-post in America. These
crotches being rounded out by art, a stout piece of
knotty timber of about from twelve to eighteen
inches in thickness was placed horizontally in them.
To the centre of the cross-piece a pole of ten or
twelve inches in circumference was lashed with a
strong rope, and to the lower end of this pole, a
huge rough rock was fastened, weighing from ap-
pearances several tons. The rock was slung and
fastened to the pole by means of thick ropes, form-
ed by braiding many thongs of camels' skins toge-
ther. After the machine had been fitted together on
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 229
iiie ground, it had been raised all in a body by the
help of long shores or sticks of timber, not so thick
as the uprights, but nearly twice as long: these
shores were tied fast to the uprights, near their
crotches by ropes, and served to raise and lower the
machine at pleasure, and also acted as braces to
support it when in action. Two short props or
braces were fixed between the uprights and the wall,
with one end resting against its base, and the other
in a notch cut on the inner side of the uprights to
help to keep them steady, and prevent them from
falHng against the walls. The rock hung within
two or three feet of the ground, like a huge pen-
dulum; and having a long rope fastened to its
slings, stretching off from the wall at least one hun-
dred and fifty feet. The manner of applying it,
was by the assailants laying hold of this rope in
great numbers, and then hauling off the rock to its
greatest extent ; all let go at the same instant, and
the rock swung back with such impetuosity against
those ill-constructed walls, that its repeated strokes
soon opened a breach, through which the besiegers
entered, sword in hand. The other machine was
made of four rough-sticks of timber, of nearly equal
lengths, lashed together at their smallest ends, and
raised in form of a common triangle, or rather a
quadrangle ; from the point of juncture, a large rock
was suspended by a rope of camels' skin, braided to
the thickness of a man's leg, and slung in suc!i a
manner as to be struck against the wall in the same
way as the one first described. My companion,
Rais bel Cossim, gave me all the information I de-
230 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
sired relative to these machines. The ground about
the breach and near the gate was strewed over with
dry human bones ; and my curiosity being much ex-
cited to know the history of this melancholy scene
of carnage and desolation, I requested Rais to com-
municate to me the particulars; but not being, it
seems, acquainted with them himself, he applied to
Sidi Mohammed on the subject, who thereupon gave
the following relation, while Rais translated into
Spanish for me such parts as I did not perfectly un-
derstand in Arabic, by which means I was enabled
thoroughly to comprehend the whole narrative.
" That city (said Sidi Mohammed, jointing to-
wards it with his staff,) was built by Omar Ras-
chid, about forty years ago; he named it Widnah,
He was a very brave and pious man : and the num-
ber of his family and friends, consisting at first of no
more than five hundred souls, when the city was
built, increased so rapidly, that in a few years they
amounted to several thousands : they planted those
fig, date, pomegranate, olive, and other trees which
you now see near the walls ; they cultivated the
fields round about, and made gardens ; had abun-
dance of bread, beasts, and cattle of every kind, and
became exceedingly rich and great, for God was
with them. In all their transactions, they were re-
spected, loved, and feared by all their neighbours,
because they were wise and just. This man was
called Omar el Jllilliah, (or Omar the good ;) he was
my best friend when living, (said Sidi) and helped
rae when I was very low in the world, but the best
men have enemies — so it was with Omar; he had an
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 231
inveterate enemy from his youth, who hved among
the mountains to the southward of his city, whose
name was Sheick Sulmin. This Sheick, about twen-
ty years ago, came down with a great host and in-
vested the city of Omar, but Omar taking advantage
of the darkness of the night, salhed out of his city
at a private passage, with all his forces, and falling
upon his besiegers unawares, killed a great number,
and put the remainder to a shameful flight — from
that time until the time of his death, (which happen-
ed two years ago) he enjoyed a profound peace on
every side. After Omar's death, his eldest son,
Muley Ismael, (for he caused himself to be called a
prince) took upon him the government of the city.
He was a very effeminate man, entirely devoted to
sensual pleasure, and had a great number of wives
and concubines. The people had long enjoyed a
profound peace, and confided in their strength; when
about a year ago one of the brothers of Ismael,
named Kesh-hah^ who was very ambitious, and being
fired with resentment at the conduct of Muley Ismael,
in taking away from him his betrothed wife, left the
city, and repaired to the mountains, where having
found his father's old enemy still Hving, he stirred
tim up to war against the city. The old Sheick
soon collected a powerful army of hungry and rapa-
cious Arabs on the borders of the desart, and came
down the mountains, bringing on their camels the
battering machines you now see standing there.
When this host approached the city, it was in the
dead of the night, and all within were asleep, for
they dwelt carelessly and dreamed of no danger.
232 CAPTAIN RILEY*S NARRATIVE.
and felt so secure, that they did not even keep a
watch. The Sheick and his host drew near the
walls in perfect silence, and raised their battering
machines undiscovered : it was now nearly daylight,
when both machines were put in operation at the
same instant, and the gate was also attacked by
means of large stones hung from the upper extremi-
ties of long poles by ropes, which poles stood up on
end, and were managed by the hands of the Arabs.
The first strokes against the walls and gate, shook
them to their very foundations, and awakened the
slothful inhabitants, who flew to the walls in order
to make a defence; but it was too late; the enemy
were thundering against them; all was confusion
within ; those who attacked the gate were repulsed
with great slaughter by those who mounted the
platform over it, but the walls were already shat-
tered to pieces, and the assailants entered the
breaches over heaps of their dead and dying ene-
mies.
It was now daylight, and an indiscriminate
slaughter of the inhabitants ensued ; all was blood
and carnage ; every male was put to death, except
two, who escaped over the wall to carry tidings of
the fate of the town to their friends and neighbours.
All the women and children shared the same fate,
except two hundred virgins, who were spared for the
use of the conquerors. They next plundered the
slain of their clothing and ornaments ; gathered up
all the spoil, and drove off the oxen, sheep, camels,
and asses, and departed, leaving the city before
mid-day a heap of ruins, covered with the mangled
SUFFERINGS l.\ AFRICA. 233
carcasses of its once liighlj ravomed iuliabitants :
thej were in such haste as to leave the battering
machines standing, and made oft' by way of the
plain southward. The inhabitants of the neighbour-
ine^ towns soon collected, and pursuing them with
great vigour, came up with tliem on the side of the
mountain the next morning, while the invaders send-
ing forward their spoil, took a station in a steep
narrow pass, and prepared for battle^ It was a very
lono- and bloody fight, but Sulmin's men rolled down
great stones from the precipices upon their pursuers,
who were at last forced to retreat, leaving about
half their number dead and wounded on the ground."'
Sidi Mohammed was one of the pursuers, and noAV
showed me a verv larg-e scar from a wound he then
received on his breast by a musket ball. Sidi Ishem,
a very powerful prince, had in the mean time heard
the news, and assembled a very large army, and
pursued tlie enemy by another way ; but they had
fled to the desart, and could not be overtaken.
The dead bodies in and about the city had become
so putrid before the pursuit was over, that none
could approach to bury them, and they were de-
voured by dogs, and wild beasts, and birds of prey.
" They had offended the Almighty by their pride,
(observed Sidi Mohammed) and none could be found
to save them. Thus perished Widnah and its
haughty inhabitants."
I was at that time riding along on a mule next to
Rais bel Cossim and Sidi Mohammed, whilst the lat-
ter recounted the transaction in a most solemn tone.
My sensations at beholding the desolate ruins of a
H h
234 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
once populous town, whose inhabitants had all beew
cut off in a few hours by the unexpected irruption
of a ferocious and unsparing foe, may easily be con-
ceived. I was at first induced to consider the story
as fictitious, but my eyes warranted the belief of it,
and the sight of the battering machines, together
with the breaches in the wall, and the dry hnman
bones, afforded conclusive evidence even to the
minds of my fellow-prisoners, who did not understand
the narrative, that here had once stood a town, which
had been sacked and destroyed.
After leaving these ruins, we continued on about
an east course for three hours, when we came to
the bank of a stream, or fresh water river, which
was now no larger than a brook, owing to the dry-
ness of the season. It flowed from the south-east,
and bent its course through a broad valley in a
crooked channel, nearly north, towards the sea-
shore. On its left bank, which was very high land,
stood two considerable walled villages, and a great
number of small square-walled enclosures on the
same bank southward, some in ruins and some appa-
rently in good repair. The walls were made of
rough stones laid in clay, and the houses had flat
roofs. On the margin of the brook were a great
number of gardens fenced in with dry thorn bushes,
placed on the ground, and planted chiefly with the
pricklv-pear; but some with squashes, cabbages,
&c. At a distafice on both sides of this stream, w^e
saw a number of square stone sanctuaries, or saint
houses, with round domes : — they did not appear to
be more than ten or fifteen feet square, and were
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 235
all nicely whitewashed. This bank of the river
bore stronji^ marks of having been washed to a very
great height from the place where the stream then
flowed, and, on inquiring of Sidi Mohammed, I was
informed that the whole of the valley between the
two high banks (which from appearances must be
five or six miles wide) was entirely covered with
water during some part of the season, or when great
rains fall ; at which times travellers were obliged to
go up the banks three days' journey to a fall before
ihey could cross it : that he himself had once b^^en
that way, but for the last five years the land bad
been so cursed with droughts, that it had not once
overflowed its present bed where we crossed it, and
where it was not more than twenty yards wide, and
one foot in depth.
As we passed along close to the prickly-poars,
Avhich hung over the thorn bushes, bearing yellow
fruit, some of my men plucked them and put them
in their mouths, without regarding the sharp prickles
with which these pears were covered, so that their
tongues and the roofs of their mouths were literally
filled with them : on the first touch, they were ex-
tremely painful, and were extracted afterwards with
much difficulty. There were also on both sides of
this river, near where we crossed it, numerous
herds, and many inhabitants. We travelled along
the right bank of the river for several miles, until it
became both wide and deep, for it met the tide water
from the sea; when coming within sight of a city on
the high right bank, we made towards it. On our
approaching within two miles of its walls, we passed
236 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
large fields of Indian corn and barley corn, and gar-
dens filled with most kinds of common vegetables.
The borders of these fields and gardens were plant-
ed with date, fig, pomegranate, orange, and other
fruit trees in great numbers, and many clumps of
grape vines : the soil of this spot appeared to be of
the richest black mould. As we passed along in a
high footway, formed by throwing up the turf from
the enclosures, (apparently, to make them perfectly
lefel, or all of a gentle descent) we saw hundreds
of the inhabitants busily employed in gathering the
Indian corn and barley corn into heaps, for it was
now their harvest time, while others (men and boys)
were loading; it in sacks and baskets on camels,
'&
mules, and asses, and driving them, thus loaded, with
the rich products of the soil, into their city. These
several enclosures contained, I should judge, one
hundred acres of land, divided from each other by
mud walls, strewed v\^ith dry thorn bushes; the whole
were watered by means of a considerable stream
brought from the heights near the city, in a large
ditch, and carried round each enclosure in small gut-
ters, dug for the purpose ; so that any one of the
owners could either water the whole or any part of
his field or garden, at pleasure. Hundreds of oxen
and cows, sheep and goats, were feeding in the newly
cleared fields, whose thin and famished appearance
proved they had been forced to feed on scanty and
dried up herbage during the summer months, and
that on account of the long and excessive droughts,
they had merely been able to exist. Rais also in-
formed me, that the locusts had nipped off and de-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 237
stroked nearly every verdant thing in the whole
country; and t.'jat for the last five years they had
laid waste whole provinces in the empire of Morocco,
We now arrived at the city, and entered it at a
very large gateway, with our camels and mules,
and took up our quarters in a smith's shop, near the
gate. It was after sunset when we entered this
town, and I could observe one broad street, that
appeared to run its whole length. The houses were
built of rough stones, principally laid in clay, but
some in lime ; all of one story high, and flat roofed ;
there were no windows next the street, except a
small aperture in each one not a foot square, for the
purpose probably of admitting light. They had
each a stout plank door strongly made, and furnished
with a big clumsy iron lock. The corn continued
to pass into the city till dark, — all the camels, oxen,
cows, sheep, goats, and asses, belonging to the in-
habitants, and which were very numerous, were also
driven into the city, and the gate shut and barred
with four large pieces of timber: this was about
eight o'clock, and a watch was then stationed on the
wall. On entering the city, Rais bel Cossim and She-
ick Ali waited on the governor or chief, and obtain-
ed permission to remain in his town over night; and
a few dates were brought by Rais for our suppers.
The shop in which we were permitted to stay was
about twenty feet square; a kind of forge was fixed
in one corner; two skins were curiously applied, so
as to form a bellows to blow this fire with, w' ich
was of charcoal ; a man stood between them with a
hand on each skin, which he raised and depressed
%»
238 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
alternately, and thus kept up a small and irregular
stream of air. Thej had a large piece of iron for
an anvil, which lay so low on the ground, that when
they worked on it with the hammer, which was a
very clumsy sort of one, they were obliged to squat
down. I believe every man and boy in this town
came to look at us by turns, and ask questions con-
cerning ourselves, our country, &c. so that we were
surrounded with people during the whole night, chat-
tering with each other, and asking our Arab guides
an endless string of questions.
These people were of the same nation we had
been in the habit of seeing since we came to the
river Nun, yet they appeared to be more civilized.
Several of them asked me in Spanish, how I did ?
and uttered many other words in that language, the
meaning of which they did not seem to understand;
the most of them being vile oaths and execrations ;
which proved satisfactorily to me that they had had
frequent communications in some way or other with
people of that nation. Sheick Ah had all the day
after we left Sidi Mohammed's house, been lost in
a seeming reverie : he would seldom speak, and
when he did, it was in a low voice apart with Seid,
and I strongly suspected that some plot was in pre-
paration between them. We had travelled the last
day about five hours, at the rate of four miles an
hour, before we came abreast of the ruins of the
city I have described, and we had proceeded five
hours afterward at the same rate, making together
forty miles.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 239
On the 30 th of October, we made ready to start
before dajlight, and as soon as it dawned, the gate
was opened, and we proceeded on our journey.
The walls of this city or town, were built of rough
stone laid in clay, and were four feet thick at their
base in the gateway, and about twenty feet high,
but had no outer ditch to defend them, nor any can-
non mounted. It appeared to cover a space of about
three hundred yards in length along the river's
bank, north and south, and one hundred and fifty
yards in breadth from east to west. The channel
of the river at low stages of the water is about one
mile west of the town : — this river is called by the
natives, Woed Sehkm, or river Sehlem^ and the town,
Rais told me, bore the same name ; i. e. Sehlemak :
it is, I should judge from its appearance, fifty yards
in width opposite the town at high water, and pro-
portionably deep. I was now informed by Rais bel
Cossim and Sidi Mohammed, that there was once a
large and flourishing Christian town and settlement
near the mouth of this river, and only thirty miles
from us ; that the town was taken by storm about
eight centuries ago, and all the Christians massa-
cred. An Arabian century contains forty lunar
years, and is called Zille, and they reckon twelve
moons to the year. Both Rais bel Cossim and Sidi
Mohammed said they had been to the spot, and seen
some of the remains of the walls, which were still
standing, though nearly all buried up in sand drifted
from the sea-shore. They further stated, that there
was now a village at a little distance from the an-
cient ruin, inhabited by fishermen; that the old
240
, Christian town was situated on a bay or arm of the
^a, and five or six miles broad at its entrance, and
lh.at it is an excellent harbour both for large and
snl^ll vessels : that there was no bar across its
mouth, but tliat the usual bar was formed of sand a
few miles below the town we had left. From m^
own observations on the increasing breadth of the'
river, I am inclined to think that this baj may con-
tain a fine harbour, particularly as Rais and his com-
panion could have no motive for deceiving me.
Rais bel Cossim had been many times in Europe as
captain under the Moorish flag, in the grain trade,
and insisted that this was a better harbour than
Cadiz : if so, it is the only one on that coast, from
Cape Spartel, in latitude 34. 30. to the latitude of
19. north.
Travelling on at a great rate, we entered on a
vast plain, over whose surface a few shrubs, and
weeds, and clumps of trees were thinly scattered :
the boughs of these trees were bending under the
weight of a bright yellow fruit, and I learned from
Rais that it was the Arga tree, from the nut of which
is extracted the Argan oil, \ery much esteemed by
the natives; and it was also highly relished by my
companions. This nut, when ripe, much resembles
the ripe date in appearance; so much so, indeed,
^T that seeing some of them scattered on the ground,
r took one up and bit it, when I found out my mis-
take, ae its bark was extremely bitter. The trees
generally grew in clusters of from three to ten
trunks, that seemed to spring from the same seed :
these rise in a shaft of from ten to fifteen feet in
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 241
height ; and then branch off in all directions, form-
ing a diameter of at least one hundred feet; the
trunks are from one to three feet in diameter; the
branches are covered with thorns, which fall and lie
so thick on the ground, as to make it almost impos-
sible to approach them near enough to shake or
knock off the nuts, and they are consequently left
to ripen and drop off spontaneously.
We were now going on at a small trot, mostly all
mounted on the camels, mules, and two asses that
were in company. The Atlas mountains were now
full in view, stretching as far as the eye could reach
from N. E. to S. W. at some distance on our right.
We had seen these mountains for several days past,
in the distant horizon, when we were on the high
ridges, which we were obliged to pass; but we now
beheld them from this wide-spreading plain in all
their awful magnitude ; their lofty summits, tower-
ing high above the clouds in sharp peaks, appeared
to be covered with never-melting snows. This sight
was calculated to fill the mind of the beholder with
wonder and astonishment. The cold and chilling
blasts of wind which blew directly from the Atlas,
almost congealed our impoverished blood, and made
our feeble frames shake almost to dissolution, not-
withstanding the good cloaks and shoes with which
we were provided. Seid and the other Arabs were
also shivering with cold, and ran on foot to make
themselves warm, for the sky was overcast afid ob-
scured by thick and heavy clouds, portending tor-
rents of rain. I was now sure we were very near
the emperor of Morocco^s dominions, and began to
I i
242 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
imagine myself a free man — I felt myself at peace
with all mankind; my mind expanded with gratitude
towards the great Author of my being, and I viewed
this stupendous ridge of mountains, as one of the
strongest proofs of Divine goodness to his creatures^
for I considered that all the rivers, and streams, and
springs, that Water and refresh the northern part of
Africa, from the borders of that immense and thirsty
desart over which 1 had travelled, to the streights of
Gibraltar, and which empty into the Atlantic ocean,
or into the Mediterranean sea, westward of Tripoli,
and from the 26th to the 35th degree of North lati-
tude, must either take their rise or have their sources
in this vast chain of Atlas. On these burning
coasts, seldom refreshed by rains, (and that only in
small quantities, and during the winter season,) the
great bodies of accumulated snow on these moun-
tains, tend in the summer season to cool the atmos-
phere in their vicinity, as well as to supply water for
the use of the animal and vegetable creation.
In the course of this morning, Thomas Burns
became so weak (being benumbed with cold) that
he could no longer hold on the camel, and tumbled
off over the beast's tail with great violence, faUing
on his head and back, which deprived liim, for a
considerable time, of all sensation : — with much ex=
ertlon, however, on our part, he at length revived,
and was again placed on his camel. Proceeding on
the plain, we saw a large number of cities, or walled
towns, I should reckon at least fifty, some on one
side of our path, and some on the other; but mostly
on our right, and extending,- as far as the eye could
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 243
reach towards the mountains. Those near the path
appeared to be three or four hundred yards square :
the walls were built of rough stones laid in clay,
and with only one gate ; they were from twenty to
thirty feet in height, and crowned with short turrets
about three yards apart all around : at each corner
on the top was built a kind of circular sentry box,
also of stone, somethinof in the manner of old Euro-
pean castles. Most of the land, at some distance
from the vicinity of these towns, was prepared for
sowing, and many of the inhabitants were engaged
in ploughing. A little nearer, were numerous or-
chards of fig, date, and other fruit trees; and close
to the walls, many gardens of fine vegetables, such
as onions, cabbages, turnips, squashes, &c. Round
about these gardens, we saw many dung-hill fowls,
and at a distance, herds of neat cattle, asses, and
flocks of sheep and goats, were feeding upon the
scanty and dried up herbage, under the eye of their
respective keepers or herdsmen. These beasts
were very poor, yet the whole seemed to promise
abundance of food to the apparently industrious in-
habitants, and brought to my mind the ancient Jew-
ish history.
Sheick AH had been very attentive to me all this
morning : he had, in imitation of Rais bel Cossim,
called me captain, and endeavoured to convince me
that I had better go with him to the mountains
southward, where he had large possessions, and
would give me one of his daughters for a wife, and
make me a chief in his nation. He had stopped the
ivhole company two or three times to talk over his
244 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
own affairs, and I now supposed that Seid was
leagued with him, and bent on doing me and my men
some mischief. We had travelled on thus for ten
hours, (say from four in the morning till two in the
afternoon) at the rate of five miles an hour, making
a distance of fifty miles, when turning aside from
our path, as if by choice, we approached the gate of
a city. We were both hungry and thirsty, and we
seated ourselves down by a very deep well, within
one hundred yards of the city gate : Seid and She-
ick All went immediately into the town, as I sup-
posed, to get some provisions — Sidi Mohammed and
Rais bel Cossim were soon invited in also, to partake
with them, leaving us on the outside, and under
charge of Bo-Moharamed, who stood in Sidi Hamet's
stead, and two others. A great many men, and I
believe, all the boys belonging to the place, now
came out to look at, and make remarks on the
slaves ; most of them, no doubt, from mere curiosity.
The boys, by way of amusement, began to throw
stones and dirt at, and to spit on us, expressing, by
that means, their utter contempt and abhorrence of
us and of our nation. Burns and Clark were so far
exhausted as to be unable to support themselves sit-
ting, and were obliged to lie down on the ground;
but one man brought a bucket from the town, and
drew water, that we might allay our thirst : this re-
vived us in some measure. Mr. Savage, Horace,
and myself, were in so weak a state, that I much
feared we should not be able to keep on for the re>»
mainder of this day. Burns's fall had proved him
to be too weak to hold on the camel, and had be-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 245
sides bruised him very much. I tried my utmost to
encourage them and keep up their spirits, by repre-
senting to them that we were now free, and would
soon he in the emperor's dominions, where I pre-
sumed we shoukl be out of the reach of the rapa-
cious Arabs : for I had been informed by Rais bel
Cossim, that in the space of one day's journey we
should be within the territories of the emperor.
Whilst Rais bel Cossim and the rest of his com-
pany remained within the walls, the winds from the
mountains, driving before them thick masses of dark
clouds, loaded with vapour, brought on a copious
discharge of rain, and we were directed to enter
under the gateway for shelter, which we did, sup-
porting each other in our weakness, and seated our-
selves in the gate. This was the first rain I had
witnessed in this country ; and it continued to fall
for about an hour. I had for a long; time looked for
Rais bel Cossim and his companions to come out,
and began to apprehend some disaster or treachery
on the part of Sheick Ali, whose harsh and loud
voice I now heard roarins: within. This tremendous
clamour between the Sheick and other persons, con-
tinued for about two hours, when Rais bel Cossim
made his appearance, escorted by a number of men:
his intelligent countenance bespoke fear, grief, and
indignation — he called me aside from my companions,
and told me that Sheick */^H was the intimate friend
of Muley Ibrahim^ (or prince Abraham,) the king or
governor of the city: that Sheick jUi had claimed
us as his property, alleging that Sidi Ham.et was his
son-in-law, and owed him a great deal of money.
246 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
and that he (Sicli Hamet) was now held as a host-
age or slave to a Christian in Svvearah : that he had
insisted we should not proceed one step further un-
til fifteen hundred dollars were produced, together
with Sidi Hamet, the husband of his daughter: and
that in conjunction with Seid, he had contrived to
stop us here by the power of the prince. This
news was to me like a clap of thunder; it bereft me
of all my fortitude ; the fair prospects I had enter-
tained of a speedy liberation from slavery, particu-
larly for the last two days, were now suddenly
darkened. Rais bel Cossim further informed me
that he had argued the matter every way, but all
to no purpose — that he had promised the money re-
quired, namely, six hundred dollars, as soon as we
should get to Santa Cruz^ in the emperor's dominions,
and that he would agree to have the prince and She-
ick go along with him and receive it there, and
there wait for the return of Sidi Hamet ; " but they
will not listen to me, (added he) and I must set off
immediately and carry this discouraging news to
Mr. Willshire, leaving you here until I return, (which
will be in six days) and may God preserve you in
the meantime from their evil machinations." This
was more than I could bear: — tears of anguish,
which I had not the power to control, now gushed
from my eyes ; and my almost bursting heart vented
itself in bitter groans of despair. My companions
heard my distress, though at a considerable distance
from me, and turning fearfully on me their almost
extinguished eyes, begged for an explanation of the
cause.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA, 247
Rais bel Cossim was just in the act of mounting
his mule to ride ofl', when Sidi Mohammed, who went
in the first place with my njaster to Swearah, came
Bear him and said, " Rais — Muley Ibrahim and
Sheick Ali have determined you shall not go to
Swearah; they fear you will cause a war to break
out between them and the sultan." Observins: me
in tears and in great affliction, he took me by the
hand, and said, " Don't be cast down, Riley, I will
go to Swearah, and carry a letter from Rais, and
one from you to Willshire ; and if he wants a host-
age, I will stay with him. I have two wives and
seven children to leave, and houses, and lands, and
herds of cattle ; and shall be a more valuable host-
age than Sidi Hamet — he is your friend, and will
come immediately down and relieve you. God is
great and good, (added he) and will restore you to
your family." I kissed his hand in gratitude, and
called him father, and hoped the Almighty would re-
ward him for his benevolence. Rais now joined
Sheick Ali and the prince, who, with many attend-
ants, were seated on the ground, in a circle, outside
of the city gate — here they debated the matter over
again. Rais insisted we were his slaves ; that nei-
ther the prince nor Sheick had a right to detain
what he had bought with his own money, much less
to stop him like a criminal : that it was contrary to
their religion (which made them all brothers) t«
commit such an outrage on hospitality. Sheick Ali,
on the other hand, contended, that Sidi Hamet and
Seid owed him money to a large amount ; that we
ivere their joint property, and that consequently he
248 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
had an undoubted right to detain and to carry lis off
into his own tribe, or family, and there to keep us,
until Sidi Hamet shouW return and pay his debt.
Rais insisted he had paid his money for us, and had
nothing to do with Sheick Ali's claim; however, after
extolling the justice and virtue of the prince to the
highest pitch, they both at last agreed to leave it to
Muley Ibrahim to decide what should be done.
Muley Ibrahim now asked Sidi Mohammed and Bo-
Mohamraed what they knew concerning this busi-
ness; and they gave testimony in favour of Rais
bel Cossim's previous claim : thus prepared, Muley
Ibrahim said — " You, Sheick Ali, my old friend, and
Rais bel Cossira, both of you claim these five Chris-
tian slaves as your own property, and each of you
has some reason on your side — yet, as It is not in my
power to decide whose claim is the best founded, I
am resolved, with a strict regard to justice, and with-
out going into further evidence, to keep the slaves
in my own city, carefully guarded, until messengers
can be sent to Swearah, who shall bring down Sidi
Hamet, when you three being confronted, may settle
your claims as shall be found most consistent with
justice." He then proposed that Rais should re-
main with him, (like a friend) and without having
any thing to fear. This plan was agreed to by all
parties, and they shook hands upon it like friends.
This done, we were conducted into the city, and
into a house adjoining that where the prince lived.
A mat was spread for the Sheick and Rais, and their
companions to sit on, while we were placed in a
narrow corner on the ground, among the saddles
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 249
and other stuffs — Sentinels with muskets and scimi-
tars were stationed at the door of our apartment
and the other doors, and at the city gate. It was
after dark when the dispute was settled, and soon
afterwards a dish of Coos-coo-soo was brought in, of
which all partook after due ablutions ; anJ^ they then
performed their evening prayers most devoutly.
My companions were very much cast down ; and
their bodies and minds were so much exhausted and
debilitated by their sufferings, that they had become
like children, and wept aloud. I was certain that it
would have been impossible for Clark and Burns to
have proceeded further on that day, and I tried to
persuade them all that it was better for us to be de-
tained a little, as it would give us an opportunity of
taking some rest, without which we should be in
danger of fainting on our route. Muley Ibrahim,
the Sheick, and Rais, were conversino^ durins: the
whole night, and when daylight appeared, (the 2d
of November) Rais furnished me with pen, ink, and
paper, and told me to write to Mr. Willshire, stating
our present situation as near as I was able : this I
accordingly did, while a talb or scrivener was em-
ployed in writing a letter for him, (as he could not
write himself.) At an early hour Seid, Sidi Mo*
hammed, and Bo-Mohammed, set out for Swearah,
taking our letters, and promising to return as soon
as possible. Sheick AH also, soon afterwards, left us.
promising to return in four days.
Kk
250 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRAXrVE.
CHAP. XXIL
Rais hel Cossim gains the friendship of the prince-
good provisions are procured — Sheick ^Ws plans
miscarry — they set off for ^ a7id arrive at Santa Cruz,
in the empire of Morocco.
Being now left alone with Rais bel Cossim, I
questioned him concerning our detention : he said it
would be but for a {ew days, and that we needed a
little time to refresh ourselves, in order to enable u?
to bear the fatigues of the remainder of our jour-
ney : that he trusted he should make a friend of the
prince, in whose power we all now were, and that
he hoped to be able to effect this by making him a
small present. I told him I almost despaired of
living to regain my liberty, as I was extremely fee-
ble, and must soon perish. " What ! (said he) dare
you distrust the power of that God who has pre-
served you so long by miracles } No, my friend,
(added he) the God of heaven and of earth is your
friend, and will not forsake you; but in his own good
time restore you to your liberty and to the embraces
of your family ; we must say, '• his will be done,' and
be contented with our lot, for God knows best what
is for our good."
To hear such sentiments from the mouth of u
Moor, whose nation I had been taught to consider
the worst of barbarians, I confess, filled my mind
with awe and reverence, and I looked up to him as
a kind of superior being, when he added, " We are
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 251
all children of the same heavenly Father, who watch-
es over all our actions, whether we be Moor, or
Christian, or Pagan, or of any other religion; we
must perform his will." Rais then called Muley
Ibrahim, and had a long conference with him. This
prince Ibrahim was a man of a very mild aspect, of
a light complexion, about five feet ten inches in
heiirht, and rather thin — his countenance was in-
tclligent, and he was very active, though apparent-
ly sixty or seventy years of age. By the tenor of
the conversation I could understand that Rais was
flattering him highly, but in a delicate way: he
asked very affectionately about the prince's wives,
and understanding he had but one, he inquired if
she had any children ; and was answered, she had
none : he next wished to know if she had any tea or
sugar, and was answered in the negative.
We had not seen the faces of any of the women
since we arrived at the town where Sidi Mohammed
dwelt. Rais now managed to get a little wood and
some water, and we made a fire and boiled some
coffee ; this was done by the help of a small negro
girl who was a slave to Muley Ibrahim; and during
the absence of the prince. Rais, by giving the girl
a small lump of loaf sugar, persuaded her to carry
a large lump to her mistress, and also a cup of cof-
fee thick with sugar. The prince had gone out be-
fore Rais attempted to bribe the girl. After carry-
ing in the coffee and the sugar, the girl returned
and told Rais that her mistress was much obliged to
him, and would keep the cup and saucer, for she had
never seen oae before, and thought them very pret-
252
tj, and begged to know how she might serve him in
return. Rais sent back word that she could serve
him most essentially by striving to make the prince
his friend. About one hour after this, Muley Ibra-
him entered our apartment, and asked Rais what he
had been doing with his wife ? saying, at the same
time, " You had no need of gaining my friendship
through her influence, for you had it already;" but
I could perceive a very great difference in his man-
ner. He wished to know if Rais did not want to
go to the mosque, which he said was not far distant.
Rais accompanied him thither, and I discovered at
his return, about two hours after, that all was right
between him and the prince, and that he had all the
hberty he required. I had, in the meantime, made
some coifee, of which my companions and myself^
drank as much as we wanted, and nibbled our bis- *
cuits, for our Arab friends had before taken care to
eat up all our boiled tongue. We were, all of us.
so excessively weak, that we were not able to fetch
water for ourselves, and our diarrhoea also continued
with the most distressing hermorrhoides : this day,
however, had passed away more smoothly than I
had expected. In the evening, the prince came,
and prayed, in company with Rais, and appeared
very friendly. After the prince retired, Rais inform-
ed me that he (Rais) had sent off to a rich man, an
old acquaintance of his, who lived about one day's
journey south of us, for money to pay Sheick Ali's
demand, and that he expected his friend would come
to him the next day — "but (said Rais) God has made
Muley Ibrahim my firm friend ; and he^j^as given his
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 253
princely word that lie will protect both me and my
slaves, and in case force is necessary, he will pro-
vide a sufficiency to escort us into the emperor's
dominions — he will also provide some fowls and
eggs for you in the morning, and you may tell your
shipmates they have nothing to fear, for to-morrow
M. Shaikh^ (i. e. if it is God's will) they shall have
plenty of good food." This news cheered their
spirits, and as our apprehensions had in seme mea-
sure subsided, we rested comfortably.
Early in tlie morning of November the 3d, Muley
ibrahim brought in some eggs, which we boiled for
Qur breakfast : he gave us salt to season them with,
aad soon after broug-ht half a dozen fowls, and Rais
taking the fowls' wings in his left hand, and turning
hiaface towards the east, after saying aloud, Bes-
mihah^ (in the name of the most holy God) he cut
thei\ throats, and we soon dressed them after our
fashlyn, and put them into an earthen pot with
watei and set it a boiling. The prince had fur-
nisheA us with wood, and brought us water with his
own hVnds; he next went into his garden, and pulled
some o\ions, turnips, and small squashes, with which
we enribhed our soup; and he also gave us salt and
green ptopers to season it with. We put in four
fowls, ard this soup would have been thought good
in any cd^^ntry. A more grateful and wholesome
<lish coula not possibly have been prepared for our
poor disort^red stomachs, that had been so long
harassed wlh the most cruel griping pains, rnd
felt as if the) had lost all power of digestion. T he
prince and Ra^ had a bowl of the soup, with a part of
the fowls, and v^emed to relish it exceedingly. The
2^4 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
prince insisted on my eating from the same dish with
them: inquired concerning my wife and children, wish-
ed to know their sex : and continued from that time dur-
ing ourstay in hiscity to administer all the relief and
comfort in his powder, both to me and my desponding
and wretched companions, whose last ray of hope
had faded away on our being stopped here ; although
in fact they were not in a condition to continue their
journey, particularly Burns and Clark, for they had
sunken into a letharofic state, borderino; on dissolution.
Yet, when I was enabled to explain the causes of ou^
detention, and to inform them that the prince wrs
our friend, and gave them nourishing soups, their
spirits came again, and hope raised them from tie
ground. — To the circumstance of this stoppage aloie,
and the friendship and protection of this good clief,
I attribute, under Providence, the salvation of our
lives. On the second day of our detention, ii the
afternoon, the old man, Rais bel Cossim's frieid, to
whom he had written for assistance, came to see him :
he had been riding all night to be with Rais ii time.
Their meeting was a friendly one : the old nan had
two mules, on one of which were two baskts, con-
taining a dozen of fowls, and some dry coos-coo-soo ;
these he presented to Rais, and said he hac brought
five hundred dollars for his use, as he requ3sted, and
that he would bring it in : but Rais had n*w become
the friend of Muley Ibrahim, and therefore did not
need the money ; yet this old friend in-isted on his
taking the fowls as a present, with somr eggs he had
also brought with him ; these Rais ac-epted, for he
said they were meant as a present to me. • I had
some fowls cooked already, and the ed man sat down
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. i 255
and ate with Rais, and would have me to be one of
the company: he told Rais that if he would but say
the word, he would go and collect his friends and
take the slaves by force of arms, and in spite of Sheick
Ali's opposition would carry us safe to Santa Cruz,
and beyond liis power : but as Muley Ibrahim had
given his word, on which Rais said he could depend,
to see us all safe to Santa Cruz, and to use all his
force and influence, if that should be necessary, the
old man, whose name I am sorry to say I have forgot-
ten, left us and returned to his home. We now lived
for three days as well as we could wish.
On the fourth day after Seid's departure, akindof
fair was held at a short distance from our city, and
Rais told me he was going to it, and would try by some
manoeuvre to liberate us, and to get us on towards
the sultan's dominions. — A man of great influence
lived about i^ive leagull distance from that city. He
was called a son of the holy piophot, or Sharif; had
been to Morocco, and was also called elajjh: (the pil-
grim;) he was looked upon by all far and near as pos-
sessing supernatural powers, and was obeyed and al-
most worshipped as a superior being; and his word
or dictate was equivalent to a law. Rais went to
the fair and from thence to the place of worship, and
did not return until the afternoon, when he inform-
ed me he had bought a bullock at the fair, the best
and fattest he could find, tbough it was but a small
©ne. He had sent one half of it to the son of the pro-
phet (or Shariff) by the hand of a messenger, on a
mule, saying, when you deliver the flesh to the el
ajjh, and he asks you who sent it to him, tell him a
256 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
pious man, who has lately come from Swearah, and
is now a guest with Muley Ibrahim, and wishes to
be remembered in your prayers." This, Rais said, was
all the message he sent, but he was sure, that if the
Shariffaccepted the present, he should see him before
the sun went down. Rais had given the other half to
Muley Ibrahim,and remarked, that it was not so much
the real value of a present that was taken into con-
sideration by the Moors, but the manner of givijjg it,
which laid the receiver under such an obligation, as to
make him your friend forever. — This notion I was at
a loss to understand, and therefore supposed it to be
some peculiarity in the customs of these singular
people. Rais went out to prayers about sunset, and
returned in a short time ; when he mentioned t^at
he had been waited upon by the Shariff, who had
asked him what favour he wanted, that made him
send such a present to a stran^r. — Rais told him our
story, and that he had paid his money for myself and
my companions, and begged his assistance to force
Sheick Ali (whose power all dreaded) to consent to
have us removed quietly to Santa Cruz ; where Rais
thought his property would be safe : this the Shariif
promised to do, and even to exert all his influence if
necessary, to remove and orotect Rais and his pro-
perty by force of arms, and requested to be informed
without delay when Sheick Aii returned.
On the following day (November 4th) the Sheick
did return; and relyingon the friendshipof Muley Ibra-
him, had only one attendant: the Shariff was imme-
diately informed of his arrival, by express, and came
to see him as an old friend; then taking him aside, he
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 257
advised the Sheick to remove his slaves to Santa
Cruz as soon as possible, asserting at the same time
that he was certain that Sidilskem, whom the Sheick
well knew and dreaded, would set out from his city
on the morrow with a force, in order to seize upon
the slaves, whom he had before strove hard to pur-
chase for money without success, and if they were not
in the dominions of the emperor before he came, ano-
ther day would place them in his hands, when the
Sheick would not only lose them, but it must also
kindle a war between him and that powerful chief;
which would set the whole country in a blaze, and
after all it would be impossible to deliver them from
his grasp by force of arms. When the Sheick heard
the advice of the Shariff, he returned to our prison,
and Rais contrived to find out what had passed be-
tween them, by again meeting the Shariff at the city
gate alone, as had been before agreed upon. Rais be-
ing thus fully informed and let into the secret, came
into the apartment and informed me how matters
stood. Sheick Ali, in the mean time, was unfolding
his plan to Muly Ibrahim, and trying to gain his
consent to let the slaves be carried off in the night
by surprise, but the prince would not consent; they
were now within his walls, and he had given his word
they should not be removed until the disputed right
of property was settled by all parties face to face : —
this he should insist on. Finding that plan would
not answer any good purpose, and fearing Sidilshem's
expected arrival, and wishing to make a merit of neces-
sity, this crafty chief addressing Rais bel Cossim, told
him, in a flattering way, that h« had found him to be
258 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
a good and an honourable man, and wished to be cal-
led his friend ; that he did not doubt Rais's word,
since he knew his character, and would therefore
consent to go on with the slaves on the morrow morn-
ing, as far as Santa Cruz, where they would wait
for the arrival of Sidi Hamet, and settle the right of
property amicably. Rais, on the other hand, as crafty
as the Sheick, took care not to evince any desire of
going, and being in the whole secret, now told Sheick
Ali, that he had stopped him and his Christian slaves
at first contrary to the laws of justice and hospitality,
and that as he had kept them so long a time, he
had no wish to remove them at present, but, would
wait with patience until Sidi Hamet should come
down, and convince the Sheick that he had done
wrong in detaining him.
At last, however, he suffered himself to be persuaded
by the united voices of Sheick Ah and Muley Ibra-
him, but on the express condition of being escorted
to Santa Cruz by the prince, who was a party in the
whole secret. He was also to procure camels for us
to ride on, and went forth to engage and have them,
ready for a start at daylight the next morning. Rais
bel Cossim now informed me that Muley Ibrahim had
previously agreed to accompany us ; that we were to
ride on camels, and that two hundred horsemen were
to guard us on the road, in order to prevent any
treachery on the part of Sheick Ali, who might al-
ready have troops stationed on the way to seize and
carry us off to the mountains : he had also given pri-
vate orders to his friends and his vassals, to hold
themselves in readiness in case of an alarm. The
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 259
two hundred horsemen Avere to take stations, so as to
keep us in continual view without exciting suspicion,
and to be ready to carry intelHgence. Rais then
bade me kill and boil what fowls and eggs remained,
which I did, with the assistance of my men^ who had very
much recovered.
Character of Sidi Ishem.
Wliile the fowls and eggs were cooking, I asked
Rais who this Sidi Ishem was ? as his name alone had
seemed capable of inspiring such dread. " This Sidi
Ishem^'''' said Rais, " is a descendant of the former
kings of Suse, before it was conquered by the
Moors ; — he is a man of between fifty and sixty years
of age, possessed of great wealth and power, -^ is very
crafty, and very brave, but rapacioip and cruel ; he
has under his command fifteen tSiousand horsemen,
well armed : — they are of the race of the ancient
inhabitants of the country, from whom the whole
country derives the name o( Berberta, corrupted by
the Europeans into Barbary ; — these Berberians are
extremely fierce and warlike, and are joined by all
the renegado Moors, who escape from the Emperor's
dominion, to evade punishment for crimes they have
committed. These men are always ready to join him
in any of his enterprises, for they always get a share
of the spoil. He lives in the gorge of a mountain,
near the town of WidRoon, on the great route from
Morocco across the great desart, to Soudain, the
country beyond the desart, and the city of Tombuc-
too. All the caravans that go either to or from the
260 CAPTAIN RILEY^S NARRATIVE.
desart are obliged to go close to Widnoon, and as the
Atlas mountains are on the one side, and the ridge
next the sea on the other, they find it highly neces-
sary to secure his friendship and protection by pre-
sents. — Between this chief and the Emperor of Mo-
rocco there exists the most implacable hatred, and a
continual jealousy, which a few years ago broke out
into an. open war. The emperor sent a powerful army
against him, (said to be 30,000 strong) but Sidi
Ishem was apprized of its approach in time, and sent
off all the women, children, and old men, with all
their substance, to the south foot of the Atlas moun-
tains, and on the great desart. The emperor's army
entered his territory, where they found nothing to
subsist upon ; yet as they met with no resistance, they
carried on their work of destruction, by burning all
the towns and every thing that was combustible, tear-
ing down the houses and walls of their cities, so that
nothing escaped their violence and rapacity. They
continued pursuing Sidi Ishem (who hovered about
them with most of his men) until they were exhaust-
ed by fatigue and hunger ; when this chief fell upon
them by surprise with his infuriated followers, who
had been rendered doubly desperate by the sight of
their ruined cities. They slew more than ten thou-
sand on the spot ; those who escaped this dreadful
carnage, and fled, were hunted down and nearly all
destroyed, before they could reach the city of Taru-
dani^ (the southern and westernmost town in the
emperor of Morocco's dominions) where the few that
were left found shelter, and spread such terror and
dismay throughout that part of the empire, by the
SUFFERLNGS IN AFRICA. 261
horrid accounts they gave of their disasters, as to
render it impracticable to raise another army for
the purpose of reducing Sidi Ishem and his men to
submission. All the inhabitants were soon re-
called by their chief from the mountains and
desarts ; took possession of their country anew, re-
built their cities and dwelhngs, and are at this time
more powerful, more feared and respected, than they
were previous to that event." This is the account
Rais bel Cossim gave me in Spanish, as nearly as my
memory served me, when I took it down at Moga-
dore : — he also said that we had escaped falling into
his hands only by groping our way along a private
path on the sea shore. The substance of this account
of Sidi Ishem was confirmed, after my arrival at Mo-
gadore, by Mr. Willshire and others.
Our food being prepared, and every thing packed
up tight for a start, we got a short nap, and at day-
light on the morning of the 4th of November, we
were placed on five camels, which were saddled
much better than any we had hitherto rode : they
had on them also bags of barley, and empty sacks,
made of tent cloth, that would hold, I should suppose,
ten or twelve bushels ; these altogether made quite
a comfortable seat, though rather a wide one, and
"we could hold ourselves on by the ropes that secured
the lading : they placed me on the largest camel I had
yet seen, which was nine or ten feet in height. The
camels were now all kneeling or lying down : — and
mine among the rest. I thought I had taken a good
hold to steady myself while he was rising — yet, his
motion was so heavy, and my strength so far exhaust-
262 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
ed, that I could not possibly hold on, and tumbled
off over his tail, turning entirely over. I came down
upon my feet, which prevented my receiving any ma-
terial injury, though the shock to my frame was very
severe. — The owner of the camel helped me up, and
asked me if I was injured? — I told him no — "God
be praised," said he, " for turning you over ; had
you fallen upon your head, these stones must have
dashed out your brains; but the camel," added he, " is
a sacred animal, and heaven protects those who ride
on him ! had you fallen from an ass,»though he is only
two cubits and a half high, it would have killed you ;
for the ass is not so noble a creature as the camel and
the horse." — I afterwards found this to be the pre-
vaihng opinion among all classes of the Moors and
the Arabs. — When they put me on again, two of the
men steadied me by the legs until the camel was fairly
up, and then told me to be careful, and to hold on fast :
they also took great care to assist my companions in
the same way.
Being now all mounted, we set off to the N. E.
leaving Stuka, (for that was the name of the place
where we had been confined) accompanied by Rais
bel Cossim, Muley Ibrahim, and his two servants, and
Sheick Ali, with his attendant, all riding on mules and
asses : the five owners of the camels went on foot^
each driving his. own camel, and taking care of its
rider. — Stuka wa.shm\t in a quadrangular form; its
walls would measure about three hundred yards on
each angle; they were built of rough stone, laid in
clay, and appeared to be four or five feet thick at
their base, and twenty feet in height, tapering oif to
aUFFERl^JGS IN AVUICA. 263
two ieet thick at the top, and were crowned with
turrets all around. It had but one gate, which was
at its north angle, very strongly made, and swinging
on the ends of its back posts, which were let into
large stone sockets at the bottom and at the top :
the gate consisted of two folding leaves, and at night
was secured by four heavy wooden bars. The town
was divided within, into as many compartments as
there were families in it, which 1 should think might
amount to three hundred, probably containing in all
five thousand souls. The houses were built of
the same materials as the walls ; only one story high,
and flat roofed : except the door, they looked like
heaps of mud and stone : even that of the prince
bore the same appearance, without any other distinc-
tion or ornament than being closer jointed and more
bedaubed with mud. — All the flocks and herds were
driven within the walls every night, and each owner
makes those that belong to him lie down in his own
yard or enclosure.
As we travelled on, we passed between a great
number of cities or towns, similar in appearance to
Stiika^ with which this truly vast plain is chequered.
The whole plain seemed very fertile, was planted
with numerous groves and orchards of fig and other
fruit trees, with here and there a clump of the arga
tree, yellow with fruit. The inhabitants were busied
in ploughing-up the sdil, with a kind of plough which
I shall hereafter describe. — We proceeded on very
rapidly, keeping those on foot running constantly, and
had been travelling about six hours, when we came
t©the ruins of many towns on our left, similar in ap-
264
pearance to Stuka ; near the shattered walls of some
of which stood several battering machines, but they
were at the distance of a raile or more from us.
These places appeared to have been recently inhabi-
ted; for the gardens near the walls were still green
with vegetation. Wishinsr to know what had been the
cause of such desolation, I was informed by Muley
Ibrahim and Sheick Ali, through Rais bel Cossim,
that a family quarrel happened about one year ago
between the chiefs of two of these towns, which soon
broke out into the most dreadful kind of warfare —
each party engaged their friends to assist them in
fighting what each termed their righteous battles : the
neighbouring towns joined, some on one side, and
some on the other, and the plain was deluged with
blood. This quarrel being only of a family nature,
Sidi Ishem did not interfere, and it was finally settled
by the destruction of seven of those small cities, and
most of their inhabitants. These ruins were now
entirely abandoned, and their environs laid desolate,
though the war continued only one month. I could
scarcely believe it possible for such devastation to
have been committed in so short a time or on such
trivial grounds ; but Rais bel Cossim (who was born
near Santa Cruz) assured me that nothing was more
common than such feuds between families in those
parts: that he had knowomany himself, with every
circumstance attending them, and that they were
very seldom finished until one family or the other
was exterminated, and their names blotted out from
the face of the earth
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 26.')
V/e continued our journey until about mid-day still
on the plain, when Santa Cruz or Agader was dig-
tinctly seen and pointed out to me. It is situated on
the summit of a high mountain; its walls are white,
and can be descried at a great distance. The plain
on which we travelled was nearly level ; not a brook
or stream of water had we passed since leaving the
last' mentioned river, but the towns and villages had
many deep wells near their walls, from which the inha-
bitants drew water for themselves and their numerous
cattle. — Innumerable clumps of the evergreen arga
tree, loaded with the rich oil nut, were scattered over
the plain in every direction. Vast numbers of leaf-
less fig trees, and enclosures of grape vines with date,
pomegranate, almond, orange, and other fruit trees,
promised abundance in their seasons; and delightfully
varieirated the scene. — Hundreds of the inhabitants
were busied in ploughing the soil, which appeared
rich, though dry; and sowing their barley; while
their herds were browsing on the shrubs round
about for the want of grass. — Many unarmed men,
with droves of camels and asses loaded with salt and
other merchandise, were meeting and passing us al-
most continually. We saw also, from time to time,
bands of armed men on horseback, of about fifty in
each band, most of whom I learned from Rais Y»?ere
the friends of Muley Ibrahim, whom he had request-
ed to ride guard, as I before mentioned, and to be
ready to act in our behalf in case of treachery, or
of any emergency whatever. Our path led us in a
N. E. direction, and the camels were kept most of
the time on a great trot, while their drivers were
ivi m
266 CAPTALV RtLEv's NARRATIVE.
running on foot, and kept up with U3, seemingly,
with great ease; though I compute we rode at the
rate of seven or eight miles an hour.
About two P. M. approaching the coast, we fell ia
with huge drifts of loose sand on our left, which
extended to the sea shore. This sand had been
driven from the sea beach by the constant trade
winds, and as the sea had retired, (for it was clean
coarse beach sand) it had undoubtedly for ages been
making its way gradually from the coast, (which was
now about twenty miles distant) and had buried, as
I was informed, several flourishing villages, towns,
and cities, the tops of whose walls were still visible ;
the circular domes of a considerable number of
saint-houses, or sanctuaries, whose bodies were en-
tirely enveloped, were yet to be seen among these
barren heaps of overwhelming sands ; for the in-
habitants take great care to clear away around them,
and to give them a whitewashing every year. Mu-
ley Ibrahim informed me that a large town called
Rabeah, whose ruins we had passed in mounting
over the sand hills, was a flourishing place within
his remembrance ; (probably fifty years ago ;) that
he himself was born in it — but that large bodies of
sand had already encroached upon its northern wall :
that as soon as it was overtopped, it fell in, and the
whole city was filled with sand in the course of one
year after, and its inhabitants forced to seek a new
shelter. These drifts extended, as far as we could
distinguish sand, on our riaiht.
Having got past the high heaps, which filled a space
of eight or ten miles in width, we came to the high
banks of an apparently once large river, now called
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 267
by the natives el Wod Sta. This river's ancient bed,
and the liigh banks, which are still perfectly distinct,
bear the strongest marks of having been once laved
by a stream of four or five miles in breadth, and
nearly one hundred feet in depth, or by a part of
the ocean. The steep, barren, and craggy mountains,
rising before us to the eastward and southward,
though very high, appeared to serve only as a base
to the mighty range of Atlas, whose toweringjieight
and grandeur filled my mind with awe and astonish-
ment. Notwithstanding my frame was literally
exhausted, yet my imagination transported me back
to a time when this region might have been inhabi-
ted by men in a higher state of civilization, and
when it was probably one of the fairest portions of
the African continent. My reasons for imagining
this are, first, that it is well known by historians,
that the Romans had settlements along this coast as
far south as Salee at least, and no doubt much
further. Second, that the Portuguese and Span-
iards had possessed the settlements of Mamora,
Mazagan^ Asbedre, Santa Cruz, &c. Third, by the
traditional information obtained from Rais belCossim
and Sidi Mohammed, I have no doubt that a large
city and settlement of civilized men existed at a for-
mer period near the mouth of the river Schelem,
from sixty to one hundred miles west of Santa Cruz,
and I am firmly of opinion that the convenience of
these harbours, the luxuriancy of the surrounding
soil, and the commercial advantages this part of the
country offers, were a sufficient inducement for
colonization.
268 CAPTAIN RILEy's NAKHATIVE.
We had now approached to within two miles of
Santa Cruz or Agader, (the lower town or port)
when rising an eminence, the ocean opened to
our view at a distance, and near-bj appeared
Santa Cruz bay, which was then quite smooth.
Nearly one hundred good looking fishing boats
were hauled up on the beach out of the reach of
the surf, and numbers of Ions; fishing; nets were
spreads out to dry on the sand and over the boats.
This view gave a most favourable idea of the impor-
tance of this bay as a fishery.
The sun had not yet set, and Rais informed me
lie did not wish to enter the lower town till dark,
and did not mean to go nearer the fortress than he
could help, for fear of insult and detention; so we
stopped about a mile short of it, to the southward,
where I iiad an opportunity of examining this bay
"with a seaman's eye. — It is spacious and perfectly
well defended from the common trade v.inds, say
froiii N. N. W. all round the compass ; by the East,
and as far as S. W. thence to N. N. W. it is entirely
open, and of course is a very dangerous anchorage
in the winter months, when westerly winds prevail on
these coasts, at which times, as there is no possibility
of o-elting to sea, vessels at anchor in this bay must
remain where they are; not however without the
rrreatest risk of being driven on shore in spite of
the best of anchors and cables, and large vessels
must ride too far out to make it a good harbour for
them at any season of the year. — The port of
Santa Cruz, or, as it is called by the natives, Jgader^
has been shut by order of the Sultan for many
dUFFERLVGS IN AFRICA. 269
years,' yet there are parts of the Avrecks of vessels
still visible, sticking up through the sand on the
beach.
A little while after sunset we entered the lower
town, or port, as it is called : this village is situa-
ted on the steep decHvity of the mountain's base,
on which the upper town is built, and near the sea,
which washes the south end of the principal street.
The steep side of the mountain on w'hich this village
is erected has been apparently sloped down by art,
so as to make it practicable to build on it; has one
principal street and several small alleys : the houses
are built of rough stone laid in lime mortar, and
are but one story in height, with flat roofs tenaced
with lime and pebbles. We could see the tops of
many houses below us, and the whole made but a
miserable appearance. It was not quite dark when
we entered the village. The street was soon quite
filled with Moors, (men and boys,) and they saluted
us by spitting on us, and pelting us with stones and
sticks, accompanied with the Spanish words, '•'■Carajo
a la Mierda le Sara, perro y, bestias, and many other
chosen phrases equally delicate and polite; but some
of the old men now and then uttered a " how de do,
Christianos!" in broken English and Spanish. We
were conducted through the street to its further ex-
treraity towards the north, where we took up our
quarters for the night in the open air alongside a
smith's shop; our camels and asses were then fed
with barley. Some of the inhabitants kindled a
fire for our company, whilst others were preparing
a rich repast for them of boiled and baked fish, and
270 CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
cous-coo-soo, of which, after they had eaten, they
gave us the remains, and we found it excellent food.
Numbers of men, driving asses before them, loaded
with fish, had passed us going into the country the
day before, and they were of the same kind as those
we had tasted soon after our entrance into Suse,
and we had also seen the same kind of fish at Stuka:
th&y carry them from Santa Cruz, or Agader, about
the country in every direction, where they sell them
for a good price, being much in request. This fish
very much resembles the salmon both in size, shape,
and flavour; weighing (from appearance) from eight
to sixteen or twenty pounds; and is extremely fat and
delicate. I then recollected to have seen in my se-
veral voyages to the Canary Islands, numbers of
small vessels arrive from the coast of Africa laden
with this species of fish, and to have been told they
were caught near that coast : they are highly es-
teemed in the Canaries, where they call them Baca-
lao Africano^ or th^ African cod-fish, and are sold at
from five to ten dollars per quintal, or at least one-
third higher than the best of American cod-fish: they
are dried, without salting, on the vessels' decks,
and their scent is so strong as to nearly suffocate
the crews of merchant vessels that lie near them
while discharging. I have been told that no less than
one hundred barks, of from fifteen to fifty tons bur-
den, are continually employed in this fishery, near
the African coast from the Canary Islands, and that
scarcely a year passes without more or less of them
being driven on shore by tempests or other acci-
dents, when the crews either perish with the vessel.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 271
@v upon their reaching the shore, are massacred by
the natives, or else carried off into the interior aR
slaves, where they are never after heard from.
After my arrival in Mogadore, or Swearah, I was
informed that the crew of a bark of this description
landed imprudently on the beach not far from Santa
Cruz, about two years since, where they were sur-
prised by a sudden attack, but all escaped into the
boat except one man, who was seized and carried
off. On the return of the bark to Teneriife, the
wife of the man who had been left, upon inquiring
for her husband, was informed that he was made a
slave : distracted by this shocking event, she ran,
raving as she was, to the archbishop, and begged of
him either to take her life, or restore to her arms
her lost husband, the father of five helpless chil-
dren : she was poor, but her case excited general
pity — a subscription was opened, and the sum of
about five hundred dollars soon raised. The arch-
bishop in the meantime wrote to Alexander W.
Court, then Spanish agent at Mogadore, to ran-
som this unfortunate man, which he effected with
much difficulty ; but as the money did not come on in
time, or from some other cause, this poor Spaniard,
whose name was Fermin^ remained in Mogadore for
nearly a year without being permitted to go home,
when Mr. William Wiltshire and Don Plabo Riva, of
Mogadore, and Mr. John O'Sullivan, of New-
York, interfered in his favour; furnished him with
clothing ; procured for him a passage, and sent him
to his disconsolate family. This is said to be the
only Spaniard who has been redeemed in that part
of Barbary, for many years past.
OT9.
CAPTALV RII.El S NARRATIVE-
CHAP. XXIII.
Shelck All oid-manceuvred again hy Rais bel Cossini
— they set off in the night— meet ivith Sidi Hamet
ijind his brother, acco?npanied by some JMoors with
mules sent by Mr. Willshire ybr the sufferers to ride
on — occurrences on the road — meeting with^\v.,Y^\\\' ^
shire near Swearah or JWogadore — they go into that
city- — are ordered before the Bashaiv — are cleansed,
clothed, and fed, by their deliverer.
After supper Rais bel Cossim told me to keep a
good look out ; that he would watch the motions of
Sheick All, who he still feared was plotting against
our liberty. After I had informed my enfeebled
and desponding companions that we were now out
of danger from the Arabs, (having come about Miy
miles from Stuka) and in the emperor of Morocco's
dominions, and, consequently, sure of being liberated,
and that too in a very few days ; and after telling
them that we must bear up under our fatigues with
fortitude, and exert our remaining strength and spi-
rits, in order to reach Mogadore, we all laid our-
selves down to rest,: and my companions, though
they had the bare ground for their bed, yet as they
were wrapped up in cloaks, and had their stomachs
well filled with good and nourishing food, soon fell
asleep. As for myself, fear, hope, and various other
sensations, kept me awake, and I could not close my
eyes, but waited with extreme anxiety for the ap-
pearance of Rnis bel Cossim. Soon after midnight
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 273
Kais came, and finding me awake, he roused me and
the owners of the camels, and requested them to get
ready to go on speedily, and then told me that on
entering this place, while he was busied in feeding
his mule, Sheick AH had stolen off privately to the
town, and visited the governor, who had agreed, on
his representation, to take us into custody in the
morning at day-break, and assist in extorting what
money the Sheick demanded ; or to connive at our
being stolen and carried back by Sheick All's men to
Suse. " I have learned this (said he) from an old
friend of mine, whom I met and commissioned to
watch Sheick All's motions when we were coming
into this place : awaken your shipmates : you must '
depart this instant : the drivers know the road ; it is
very rocky : you must tell your men to hold on as
tight as possible; and remember, if you are four
leagues from this town before daylight, your liberty
is secured, if not, you will be again the most mise-
rable of slaves. Encourage your men to use their
utmost exertions, and I hope, with God's blessing, in
three days more you will be in Swearah with your
friend. I will join you as soon as possible." The
camels were by this time ready : we were placed on
them, and proceeded up the rocky steeps as fast as
possible, but with the most profound silence. Sleep
seemed to have literally sealed the eyes of all the
Moors in the lower town, and in the batteries near
the path through which we passed ; these batteries
rose one above another like an amphitheatre to-
wards the fortress. The quadrangular walls of
the town and fortress of Santa Cruz, or Agader,
N n
274
crowned the summit of this mountain, on our right*
and stand, from appearance, not less than fifteen hun-
dred feet above the level of the sea. We went fast
forward, in profound silence, which was not in the
least disturbed by the tread of the camels, because
their feet are as soft as sponge or leather : only the
hoarse roaring of the surf breaking among the rocks
below us, startled the ear, and excited in my mind
frightful images of direful shipwrecks, and the con-
sequent miseries of the poor mariner driven on this
inhospitable coast.
We had been hurrying on as fast as possible for
about two hours, and had gained the distance of
probably three leagues from Santa Cruz, when our
ears were struck with the clinking sound of iron
against the stones, which announced the approach of
horses or mules that were shod; and in an instant,
though dark, we discovei'ed close by us on our right
a considerable number of men riding on mules, and
passing the other way. Not a word was uttered on
either side, nor could tlie faces of any be distin-
guished, though we were not more than three or
four yards asunder. A thought darting across my
mind, suggested to me that it was my old master:
I instantly called out Sidi Hcmiet ! and was quickly
answered — ascoon Riley? (who is it, Riley?) the
whole company stopped in an instant; and the next
moment I had the joy of kissing the hand of my old
master and benelactor. Sidi Mohammed, Seid, and
Bo-Mohammed, were in his company, together with
three or four Moors, whom our kind friend had sent
down, charged with the money and mules for our
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 275
ransom and conveyance. The principal Moor, and
who had charge of the money until we were deh-
vered over according to the wish of Sidi Hamet,
spoke Spanish fluently: he wanted to inquire of me
where Rais bel Cossim was: I told him at Santa
Cruz : Sidi Hamet wished to question me himself,
and asked me " where is Sheick Ali ?" and when I
informed him that I had left him in Santa Cruz, in
company with Rais bel Cossim and Muley Ibrahim,
he was satisfied ; and said Sheick Ali was a bad man,
and did not fear God. Seid also pretended to be
much rejoiced at our being on the road to Mogadore,
and yet I thought I could discover that he was try-
ing to play a deep game of artful duplicity: but old
Sidi Mohammed was in truth ro^oiced to find us in
the emperor's dominions. Having now been abso-
lutely delivered over to Bel Mooden^ the Moor who
had charge of the money, he paid it over to Sidi
Hamet, and three of us were mounted on mules,
and proceeded on, while all those whom we met,
Avent towards Santa Cruz, except the three Moors
who owned and brought the mules down for us to
ride on, and who remained and proceeded northward
with us.
All the time we had stopped to make the neces-
sary arrangements above mentioned, the owners of
the camels were urging us to go forward, thereby
showing a disposition to obey the orders of Rais
bel Cossim, and would not for a long time believe
that those who stopped us were not our enemies.
The backs of the mules were covered with large
saddles made of coarse cloth, stuffed with straw,
276 CAPTAIN RILEy's NAKRATIYE.
and formed very broad, so as to fit their shape, and
reached almost from their heads to their tails : this
kind of saddle is too broad for a man to attempt to
stride. Over the saddles were placed what the
Moors and Arabs call a shwerry, which is made like
a double basket, and formed of palm leaves woven
together like mat work : each of these baskets might
contain about two bushels t they are attached toge-
ther by a mat woven in with and like the rest, of
about a foot and a half in width, sufficiently strong
to bear a burden, and long enough to let them hang
down easily on the sides of the mules : the outer
part of this shwerry is held up by means of a rope
passing through the handle on one side, and tied to
that on the other, passing over the mule's back. In
this shwerry, they carry their provisions, merchan-
dise, and spare clothing, (if any they have) when on
their journeys. The rider sits on the saddle above
the shwerry, with both legs on one side, balancing
his body exactly, and rides extremely easy, as he
can shift his position at pleasure, and the mule's gait
is an easy, fast ambhng walk, which they are taught
when very young ; their motion is very slight, and
was a seasonable relief to our almost dislocated
limbs : the change, with respect to jolting, was so
ereat from the camel to the mule, that we could not
keep our eyes open from mere drowsiness, and
Burns getting asleep, dropped oif his mule, and was
so badly hurt as to be from that time incapable of
supporting himself; so that a Moor was obhged to
sit before or behind him, and keep him on, driving
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA, 277
the mule at the same time : and this was continued
during the remainder of our journey.
We had proceeded in this way until about ten
o'clock, when we were joined by Rais bel Cossim,
Sidi Hamet, Seid, Sidi Mohammed, and Bel Moo-
den. I now inquired of Rais what had become of
Muley Ibrahim and Sheick Ali, with their attend-
ants, and he told me they had set out for their re-
spective homes. I wanted to know all the particu-
lars of their proceedings, and Rais promised to
satisfy me after breakfast, which we now stopped to
eat, (viz. biscuit and butter) near a well that afford-
ed us good water, though nearly on a level with the
sea. After we were again mounted, he began to
relate as follows. "When my friend told me of
Sheick Ali's plan, I stole away softly, and came and
sent you off without the Sheick's knowledge ; but
Muley Ibrahim was in the secret, and remained with
the Sheick to prevent alarm if he should awake
during my absence." Rais bel Cossim further told
me in substance, that as soon as we were on our
journey, he returned and laid himself down to sleep
across the door-way, where Sheick Ali slept, and in
such a manner as to make it impossible for the She-
ick to go out without alarming him; the Sheick
awoke at the dawn of day, and finding himself
blockaded in the house, awakened Rais, and told
him that they had better wait on the governor this
morning, to which Rais consented, but wanted to
see the slaves first, so as to have some coffee madci
this was agreed on ; but when they came where wc
had slept, and found none of us there, nor the camels,
278 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARiUTIVE.
nor their drivers, Rais broke out into the most vio-
lent passion apparently; accused the Sheick of
having robbed him of his slaves during the night,
and said lie vs^ould instantly have him seized and de-
Hvered up to the governor to be punished according
to the Moorish law. Muley Ibrahim, who knew the
whole affair, joined with Rais, protesting he could
no lono-er hold friendship with a man who was ca-
pable of committing such an act, which he consi-
dered to be one of the worst breaches of faith that
ever disgraced a man of his (the Sheick's) high cha-
racter. Sheick All was thunderstruck by this unex-
pected event — declared, in the most solemn manner,
that he knew nothing about our escape, begged he
might not be dehvered up to the governor; acknow-
ledged he had laid a plan the preceding evening for
our detention; wished Rais to leave the governor a
small present, and proceed on the road towards
Mogadore in the hope of finding us, -Saying, we must
have gone that way, as the gates were shut on the
other side, and there was no possibility of turning
back by any other route. The Sheick added, " I
am in your power, and will go on with you and my
friend Muley Ibrahim, without any attendants, to
prove to you that I am innocent, and that I place
the greatest confidence in your friendship." Thus
they agreed to pursue and endeavour to overtake the
supposed runaway slaves ; but soon after they had
mounted the hills north of Santa Cruz, meeting our
former masters, with Bel Mooden and Sidi Moham-
med, who had seen us, (as I before mentioned) they
stopped and talked over their several affairs. She-
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 270
ick All insisted that Sidi Hamet had treated him
very ill : that he and Seid owed him four hundred
dollars, which they were to pay him on their return
from the desart, but that they had passed by his
lands three days' journey with their slaves, without
even calling on him to eat bread : he added, he
would have gone with them himself, and with an
armed force through Sidi Ishem's country, to prevent
that chief from taking their property — '• but you
wished to cheat me of my money, as you did of
my daughter," said he, addressing himself to Sidi
Hamet. Sidi Hamet, whose voice had been very
high before, now lowering his tone, said, it was bet-
ter to settle their disputes than to quarrel; so he
acknowledged he owed his father-in-law three hun-
dred and sixty dollars for goods, but asserted that
they were not worth half the money : he would,
however, pay the principal, but no interest, which
would have swcilcd the amount of debt to more than
five hunSred dollars ; the Sheick agreed to take the
principal, which was counted out in silver, as he
would not take gold doubloons in payment, be-
cause he did not know their real value. Pie then
delivered up Sidi Hamet's bond, and said he would
return to his tribe. Rais bel Cossim gave Muley
Ibrahim a present in cash, and they separated, having
first vowed everlasting friendship, and joined in
prayer for the success of their several journeys.
Our company now consisted of Rais bel Cossim,
Bel Mooden, Sidi Hamet, Seid, Sidi Mohammed,
and three Muleteers, all armed with muskets, swords,
or daggers — the five Bereberies with their camels,
2U0 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
Avho had brought us on from Stuka, and myseU' and
four shipmates. We proceeded along the coast,
sometimes on a sand beach, now climbing an almost
perpendicular mountain of great height bj a wind-
ing kind of zigzag road that seemed to have been
cut in the rock in many places, by art; then descend-
ing into deep valleys by this kind of natural steps;
the rocks on our right for a great distance, rising
nearly perpendicularly. The path we were now
obliged to follow, was not more than two feet wide
in one place, and on our left it broke off in a preci-
pice of some hundred feet deep to the sea — the
smallest slip of the mule or camel would have
plunged it and its rider down the rocks to inevitable
and instant death, as there was no bush or other
thing to lay hold of by which a man might save his
life. Very fortunately for us, there had been no
rain for a considerable time previous, so that the
road was now dry. Rais told me, when it was wet
it w^as never attempted, and that many fatal acci-
dents had happened there within his remembrance ;
though there was another road which led round over
the mountains far within the country.
One of these accidents he said he would mention.
" A company of Jews, six in number, from Santa
Cruz for Morocco, came to this place with their
loaded mules in the twihght, after sunset; being
very anxious to get past it before dark, and supposing
no other travellers would venture to meet them, or
dare to pass it in the night, they did not take the pre-
caution to look out, and call aloud before they en-
tered on it ; for there is a place built out on each
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 281
t^iid oi" this dangerous piece of road, from whence
one may see if there are others on it : not being
quite half a mile in length, a person by hallooing
out can be heard from one end to the other, and it
is the practice of all who go that way, to give this
signal. A company of Moors had entered at the
other end, and going towards Santa Cruz at the
same time, and they also supposing that no others
would dare to pass it at that hour, came on without
the usual precaution. About half way over, and in
the most difficult place, the two parties met — there
was no possibility of passing each other, nor of
turning about to go back either way — the Moors
were mounted as well as the Jews — neither party
could retire, nor could any one, except the foremost,
get off of his mule: the Moors soon became outrageous,
and threatened to throw the Jews down headlong —
the Jews, though they had always been treated like
slaves, and forced to submit to every insult and in-
dignity, yet finding themselves in this perilous situa-
tion, without the possibility of retiring, and being
unwilling to break their necks merely to accommo-
date the Moors, the foremost Jew dismounted qare-
fully over the head of his mule, with a stout stick in
his hand : the Moor nearest him did the same, and
came forward to attack him with his scimitar: both
were fighting for their lives, as neither could re-
treat — the Jew's mule was first pitched down the
craggy steep, and dashed to atoms by the fall — the
Jew's stick was next hacked to pieces by the scimi-
tar; when finding it was impossible for him to save
his life, he seized the Moor in his arms, and spring-
o o
?82 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
ing off the precipice, both were instantly hurled to
destruction — two more of the Jews and one Moor
lost their lives in the same way, together with eight
mules, and the three .Tews, who made out to escape,
were hunted down and killed by the relations of the
Moors who had lost their lives on the pass, and the
place has ever since been called " the Jews' leap."
It is, indeed, enough to produce dizziness, even in
the head of a sailor, and if I had been told the story
before getting on this frightful ridge, I am not cer-
tain but that my imagination might have disturbed
my faculties, and rendered me incapable of pro-
ceeding with safety along this perilous path. The
danger over, however, and the story finished, we
found ourselves mounting- the first bank from the sea
on Cape Geer. When we came on the height, at
the pitch of the Cape, I rode up to the edge of the
precipice to look down upon the tumultuous ocean.
The present Cape is about one hundred feet in height,
and appeared to have been much shattered and rent
by the waves and tempests : huge masses of rocks
had been undermined, broken off, and tumbled
down one upon another, forming very wild and dis-
orderly heaps in the water all around it. I could
not help shuddering at the sioht and sound of the
surf as it came thundering on, and burst against the
trembhng sides of this rocky Cape, which is about a
mile in length, and is already undermined in such a
manner, that the whole road along which we passed
will very probably soon tumble down among the as-
saiHn<r billows. On our right, the land rose gradu-
ally like an inclined plane, and was covered witk
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. "283
pebbles and other round smooth stones that Tyb%
strong marks of having been tossed about and' \v6Vti
by the surf on a sea beach : it rose thus for ^btiiit
two miles, when it was interrupted by joerpendicul'^T
and overhanging cliffs of craggy and broken tbcks
three or four hundred feet in height : these rock's
and the whole face of the upper Cape bore as strong
marks of having once been washed and beat upon
by the ocean, as did the cliff below us, against which
it was now dashing with dreadful violence. Along
most parts of the inclined plane, and particularly
near the upper cliff, were large mounts of loose sand
in form of snow drifts. This sand was now flying
up from the beach below, being blown out from
among the rocks by the strong trade winds at every
low tide, and almost as soon as the dashings of the
waves among them had prepared it : this sand,
and in tact all we had seen since we came to the cul-
tivated country, was the same in appearance as that
which we saw and passed through on the desart, and
must have been produced and heaped up by the
same causes. After passing the Cape, about one
hour's ride, we came to the high bank of a river, and
descending to its left shore, we found its moiith wa^
tilled up with sand that had been washed in by the
sea, though the river was about half a mile wide at
its end, and appeared quite deep — here we stopped^
to take some food, namely, biscuit and but^e^iv,"'<^'''^^f
Bel Mooden had also brought some dried figJsi'
dates, and nuts. Having finished our repast, Wi?
were again placed on our beasts, and proceeded'
round the mouth of the river on a san^j'beach<
284 CAPTAIN
NARRATIVE.
about one hundred yards wide, and twenty feet
above the level of the fresh water within, and
thirty feet above the sea water on the beach, at high
tide. Our guides informed me that this river was
called " el wod Tenshai'' that it had formerly been a
very wide and deep one, and used to empty itself
into the sea : that in the rainy season it was impos-
sible to pass it without going twenty miles up the
country; but for the last few years there had not
been rain enough in this part of the country to force
open its mouth.
Having left the margin of the river, we entered
on a plain, and struck off to our right in a direction
nearly east, and we went forward as fast as possible
towards the high land. We had passed many sane- I
tuaries, but had not observed a single dwelling
house, nor even a tent, since we left Santa Cruz.
We now beheld several square walled places, which
answer the double purpose of dwelling house and
castle, crowning the top of the high mountain,
which appeared very dry and sterile, mostly com-
posed of layers of huge rocks and very steep, with
a few dry shrubs scattered thinly about the crevices
and small flat spots or spaces. Approaching the
foot of the mountain, we came to a very deep hol-
low, apparently formed by the washings of a small
stream of water, assisted by rains that have poured
through it from time immemorial. Our way wound
up through this steep hollow, and alongside of the
little brook before mentioned. As we entered it,
the eye was delighted with the beauty of the scene.
The bottom of the hollow had been made level by
SUFFERINGS IS AFRICA. 'IV 5
art, and was covered from its base with gardens,
which rose one above another in the form of an
amphitheatre : they were kept up to a level by
means of solid stone walls laid in lime, and had
been filled in with rich soil: the longest was not
greater in extent than twenty yards by ten: the
sides of the hollow were so steep, that the upright
walls were not less than ten or fifteen feet in
heiijjht between each garden : they were well
stocked with most kinds of vegetables cultivated in
kitchen gardens, and with melons: gutters were cu-
riously disposed around these gardens to convey
water to every part, at the pleasure of the proprie-
tor: they had growing on their sides an abundance
of fig and date trees, and grape vines running up the
sides of the rocks ; and a little higher up, hundreds
of the dwarf Arga tree, whose yellow fruit contri-
buted to enliven the prospect. We were at least
two hours in gaining the summit, when it had become
dark, and we had to pass down the mountain on its
east side through another hollow, though not a fer-
tile one; fojt' here was no running water. The nar-
row path we travelled in, had been worn into the
limestone rock, by the feet of mules and horses that
had passed along it, no doubt during the course of
many centuries ; and assisted by the rain water
streaming through it from above, it was in some
places channelled out to the depth of ten or fifteen
feet, and just wide enough for a camel or mule to
pass. In one place it became necessary, for the want
of sufficient room to get through, to take the lading
from the mules and carry it down by hand. After
286
descending about three hours we came to a plain,
and kept on in an eastern direction until about rald-
night ; when we approached the walls of a small
city, or dwelhng-place, arid took up our lodg;ing£
near it on the flat top of a long cistern, which afford-
ed plenty of water. The chief men of the city,
alarmed by the barking of their dogs, soon came
out and welcomed their visitors by the well known
Arabic salutation, " Salerno Alikom^ Labez^ &c.
They furnished our company with a supper of
coos-coo-soo, while I and my men ate some dates
and dry figs. The night was damp and cold, and
this, with my fatigues, rendered it impossible for me
to sleep. We stayed here for about three hours,
when daylight appearing, (October the sixth) we
were again mounted and proceeded on our journey.
My companions, as well as myself, were so weak,
being really worn out, and completely exhausted,
that it was with the greatest difficulty they could
be supported on the mules. As daylight increased,
we saw a number of towns or dwellings handsomely
enclosed with hio;h walls of stone, cemented with
lime: the land on the plain was divided olf and
fenced in with rough stone walls made with great la-
bour: numerous flocks of goats were feeding on the oil
mut : some herds of cattle, with a few old horses,
asses, and camels, were nibbling off" the green leaves
and branches of small shrubs, for the want of grass :
we also saw many regularly planted orchards of
fig trees ; and the land was in many places ploughed
and ready to receive the seed barley so soon as rain
should fall sufficient to ensure its vegetation.
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 287
We went forward to the north-eastward, and on
rising a hill, we saw two mountains before us to the
north, over which I was informed we must pass :
the farthest one north appeared to be twenty miles
distant. We soon began to cHmb the nearest, and
when we reached its summit, looking to the east,
the Atlas was fairly in view, and all its lofty peaks
covered with snow. Descending this mountain, we
met large droves of camels, mules, and asses, laden
with salt and other merchandise, and driven by a
considerable number of Moors and Arabs: the
Moors were easily distinguished by their dress :
they had each, besides his haick, a caftan or close
jacket next his skin, and the most of them had tur-
bans on their heads : they were armed with daggers,
or scimitars, suspended from their necks by a cord of
red woollen yarn thrown over the left shoulder:
the scabbards were such as I have before described —
the daofffer is worn outside of the haick : its han-
die is made of wood handsomely wrought : the
point of the dagger hooks inward like a pruning
knife : when they have occasion to use it, they seize
it with their right hand, the lower side of the band
being next to the blade, and strike after raising it
above their heads, ripping open their adversary:
they never attempt to parry a stroke with their
daggers.
The valliey between these two mountains had
been well cultivated, and would be very productive
with seasonable rains, but at this time those dread-
ful scourges, severe droughts, and myriads of locusts,
had destroyed almost every green thing : even the
^288 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
leaves of the trees and shrubs had not escaped theif
devastations. I was informed by Rais bel Cossim
that we were now in the province of Hah hah, and
that the locusts had utterly laid waste the country
for the last six years, so that the land now groaned
under a most grievous famine; nor could our company
procure any barley or ether food ibr their beasts.
This province must be naturally a very strong mili-
tary country; it is very mountainous, and rendered
almost inaccessible by the craggy steeps and narrow
roads, or defiles, through which an army would be
under the necessity of marching. The cities, or
rather castles, in which the inhabitants reside, are
built strong with stone and lime, and are fifteen or
twenty feet in height, generally of a quadrangular
form of from fifty to two hundred yards square, and
the tops crowned with turrets : within these walls
all the flocks and herds are driven every night
for safe keeping. All the men in these parts are
well armed vnth long Moorish muskets, and with
sabres, or daggers, by their sides : there are no Arabs
dwellirl^ in this part of the country, as they always
live in tents, and will not be confined within walls ;
nor had we seen a tent since our arrival at the dwel-
ling of Sidi Mohammed.
The valley now spread out to the right, and
might be termed a considerably extensive plain, on
which but few castles or dwellings appeared, and
we saw no river or stream of Avater, though there
were high mountains on both sides. The little her-
bage that had sprung up, in consequence of the re-
cent rains, was destroyed bv the locusts, which
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 289
were to be seen thinly scattered over the ground, and
rose in considerable numbers on our approach ; skip-
ping like grasshoppers. Rais bel Cossim informed me
that the flights of locusts, from which these few had
strayed, had gone to some hitherto more favoured part
of the country to continue their ravages.
While we were tranquilly travelling along, I
asked Rais in what manner the oil was extracted
from the nuts that grew in such quantities on the
Arga tree, which entirely covered the sides of the
hills. He told me that in the country these nuts
were swallowed by the goats, (and in fact we saw
these animals picking them up under the trees;) that
the nut passes through,after being deprived of its bark,
which though very bitter, was highly relished by the
goats, and when voided, the women and children,
who tend them, pick up the nuts and put them into a
bag, slung about them for the purpose, and carry
them home, where they crack them between stones,
get out the kernel, and expressing the oily juice from
them, they boil it down in ajar, until it becomes of a
proper consistence, when it is poured off, and is
fit for use. The appearance of this fruit growing
thickly on the trees, different in size, and variegate.d
in colour from green to red, and from that to bright
•yellow, had a pleasing effect : the ground beneath
the trees was also covered with them.
Having come to the foot of the high mountain, we
ascended it, winding up its steep side in a zigzag
path, very difficult of ascent, and indeed almost im-
practicable. On our left was a deep gully, with a
considerable stream of water running down through
pp
290 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
it, like a small mill-stream: it poured over the pre-
cipices, making a loud roaring, that might be heard
at a great distance ; though the whole stream seemed
to lose itself entirely in the sand before it reached
the bottom of the mountain. The sides of this
guUj were shaded by the Arga and bean tree, and
many other bushes, and near the water I discovered
a few yew or hemlock bushes, that reminded me of
scenes I had been familiar with in my own country.
As we rode near the top of the mountain, this gully
assumed the appearance of a rich valley, filled with
gardens one above another, supported by strong
stone walls in the same manner as those I have
already described, though much larger, and they
were apparently well watered by the stream that
was carried around them in gutters fitted expressly
for that purpose. These gardens looked as if they
were well cultivated, and stored with vegetables,
and numbers of men and boys were at work tilling
and dressing them.
On the highest part of the mountain that we
reached, I was much surprised to find a considerable
plain spot, nearly covered with stacks of salt, which
stood very thick, and must, I think, have amounted to
several hundreds. To see marine salt in such
quantities on the top of a mountain, which I computed
to stand at least fifteen hundred feet above the sur-
face of the ocean, excited my wonder and curiosity ;
but we stopped short of them, for the camels we
had started with from Stuka, were to carry loads of
this salt back ; so that after Rais had paid the own-
ers of them for their trouble and assistance, thev
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 291
went towards the salt heaps, wishing us a prosperous
journej. While we were stopped to settle with
them, we were taken from the mules and seated on
the ground, when many of the inhabitants came near
to have a look at us, Christian slaves. They brought
with them a few raw turnips, which they distributed
among us : they were the sweetest I had ever tasted,
and very refreshing. We were soon placed upon
the mules again, and I rode a little to the left, in or-
der to find out in what way this great quantity of
salt had been procured and deposited in this sin-
gular situation ; and on a near approach, I saw a
great number of salt pans formed of clay, and very
shallow, into which water was conducted by means
of small gutters cut for the purpose in the clay.
The water issues in considerable quantities from the
side of the mountain, in the N. W. part of the plain,
(which has been levelled down and regulated with
great labour,) and is very strongly impregnated
with salt: the pans or basons being very shallow,
the water is soon evaporated by the heat of the sun,
and a crystallization of excellent salt is the result.
It is small grained, and tinged by the reddish
colour of the clay of which the pans are formed.
The highest peak of the mountain did not appear
to rise above the salt spring more than about one
hundred feet: a great number of men and boys
were employed in raking and heaping up the salt,
and numbers more in selling and measuring it out
and loading it on camels, mules, and asses. Rais
bel Cossim informed me, that this spring furnished
the greatest proportion of the salt that is made use
•f i» the Moorish dominions, and in Suse ; and I
292
CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
should estimate the number of camels, mules, antt
asses that were there at that time waitina' for loads,
at from four to five hundred. We had met hundreds
on the route since we left Stuka, loaded with this
article, and I afterwards saw many loads of the
same kind of salt enter JHogadore, or Swearah,
Saffy^ and Rabat.
We proceeded to the northward down the moun-
tain, which is not so steep on its north as on its
south side. The country, after descending it, was
tolerably smooth, with much of the Arga wood
flourishing on every side. Soon after dark we came
to a wall that enclosed a space of ground forty or
fifty yards square: it was built of stone and lime,
six or eight feet in height, with an open space likv a
gateway on its northern side, through which we
entered and took up our lodgings on the ground,
which was very smooth. A walled village was
near this yard on the west, and on the north, out-
side of both walls, stood a mosque or house of wor-
ship : the inhabitants were chanting their evening
or eight o'clock prayers when we entered the yard ;
yet none of them came out to look at us, their atten-
tion being wholly confined to their religious duties.
We were taken from the mules and placed near
the wall, which kept off the night wind, and after
we had nibbled a little biscuit and drank some wa-
ter, we thanked God for his goodness, and tried to
get a little sleep. The wind did not molest us, and we
rested until about midnight, when we were awa-
kened by the noise occasioned by a company of men
with loaded camels and mules : they had already
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 293
probably of thirty men, with three times as many
camels, mules, and asses. I was awakened by the
bellowing of the camels, as they were forced to lie
down with their heavy loads; — the men did not speak
to ours, and as soon as they had tethered their mules,
by tying ropes round their footlock joints, and fasten-
ing them to pegs driven into the ground for that
purpose, they laid themselves doAvn to sleep, wrap-
ped up in their haicks.
Our whole company being awake, they saddled
their mules, put us thereon, and we proceeded on
our journey. It was very dark, and the path lay
through a rough stony country. We were so weak,
that we could not sit on the mules without one being
behind to steady our tottering frames; at daylight
we found ourselves near some substantial buildings,
and I begged of Rais to buy some milk if it was
possible : he rode near the gates and asked some of
the inhabitants for milk; but they would not sell
any. This to me was a sore disappointment, as I
was benumbed with cold, and so much fatigued,
that 1 thought it would be impossible for me to ride
much further; which Rais observing, said to me,
" keep up your spirits, Captain, only a few hours
longer, and you will be in Swearah if God Almighty
continues his protection^" I was so reduced and
debilitated, that I could not support even good news
with any degree of firmness, and such was my agi-
tation, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
keep on my mule for some moments afterwards.
We had been constantly travelling for three
294 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
ays and most of three nights, and though I con-
cluded we must be near Swearah, I did not think
we should reach it before late in the evening. Pas-
sing along a narrow footway between high bushes,
we came to a long string of sand hills on our left,
drifted up like the sand heaps on the desart, and
along the coast: it was then about eight o'clock in
the morning, when mounting the side of one of
those hills, the city of Swearah broke suddenly
upon our view, with the island of Mogadore, form-
ing a harbour, in which was a brig riding at an-
chor with English colours flying : — " take courage,
Captain," said the good Rais ; " there is Swearah,"
pointing towards the town ; " and there is a vessel
to carry you to your country and family; — if God
please you will soon see the noble Willshire, who
will relieve you from all your miseries — I thank my
God your suiferings are nearly at an end, and that
I have been found worthy to be an instrument in the
hands of the Omnipotent to redeem you from sla-
very." He next returned thanks to the Almighty,
in Arabic, with all that fervour and devotion so pecu-
liar to Mohammedans, and then he ejaculated, in
Spanish, "May it have pleased Almighty God to
ha\e preserved the lives of my wife and children.
We now proceeded down the sand liills towards
the city — but very slowly. Sidi Hamet had been
for some time missing : he had gone privately for-
ward to be first to carry the news to our deliverer
of our approach; and now Bel Mooden and Sidi
Mohammed left us for a similar purpose, and made
the best of their way towards the city. It would be
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 295
idle forme to attempt to describe the various emotions
of my mind at this exquisitely interesting moment : I
must leave that to be conceived of by the reader.
We soon approached the walls of an imperial palace,
which is situated about two miles south-east of Swe-
arah, or Mogadore. — The walls are built in a square
of probably one hundred yards at each side, and
about twenty feet in height — they enclose four small
square houses, built at the four corners within, and
which rise one story above the walls : the houses
have square roofs, coming to a point in the centre,
and handsomely covered with green tiles — they, as
well as the other walls, are built with rough stone,
cemented with lime, plastered over and whitewashed.
Near the western angle of the walls we stopped,
and were taken off our mules and seated on the green
grass. A small stream of fresh water, running from
the east,was spreading over the sand near Its northern
wall, flowing and meandering slowly towards the bay
over the beach, in a number of small rills. The
water in the bay was quite smooth ; small boats
were moving gently on its glassy surface, or were
anchored near its entrance, probably for the purpose
of fishing ; this, together with the sight of great num-
bers of men driving camels, cows, asses, and sheep,
and riding on horses, all at a distance, and going dif-
ferent ways, together with the view of the high stee-
ples in Mogadore, infused into ray soul a kind of sub-
lime delight and a heavenly serenity that is indiscri-
bable, and to which it had ever before been a stran-
ger. — The next moment I discovered the American
flag floating over a part of the distant city : at this
20 5 CAPTAIN Riley's karrative.
bl essed and transporting sight, the httle blood re-
w aining in my veins, guslied through nij glowing heart
V /ith wild impetuosity, and seemed to pour a flood of
^ new life through every part of my exhausted frame.
We were still seated on the green sward near the
Avestern wall, and the mules that brought us there
were feeding carelessly before us at a little distance.
*.Our deliverer, who had received news of our coming
i "rom Sidi Hamet, having first directed the flag of our
c ountry to be hoisted as a signal, had mounted his
I lorse, ridden out of the city, and came to the eastern
uide of the palace walls, where Rais bel Cossim met
him — unknown to me. — I expected him soon, but did
not think he was so near: he had dismounted, and
was prepared to behold some of the most miserable
objects his imagination could paint — he led his horse
along the south angle and near the wall : Rais was by
his side, when opening past the corner, I heard Rais
exclaim, in Spanish, " Alia estan"— " there they
are :" — at this sound we looked up and beheld our
deliverer,who had at that instant turned his eyes upon
us. — He started back one step with surprise. His
blood seemed to fly from his visage for a moment, but
recovering himself a little, he rushed forward, and
clasping me to his breast, he ejaculated, " Welcome
to my arms, my dear Sir; this is truly a happy mo-
ment." He next took erach of my companions by the
hand, and welcomed them to their liberty, while tears
trickled down his manly cheeks, and the sudden rush
of all the generous and sympathetic feelings of his
heart nearly choked his utterance : then raiding
his eyes towards heaven, he said, "I tjiank thee, great
iMllllilIllllllK
I
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 297
Author of my being for thy mercy to these my bro-
thers." — He could add no more ; his whole frame was
so agitated, that his strength failed him, and he sunk
to the ground. — We, on our'part, could only look up
towards heaven in silent adoration, while our hearts
swelled with indiscribable sensations of gratitude
and love to the all wise, all powerful, and ever merciful
God of the universe, who had conducted us through
so many dreadful scenes of danger and suffering; had
controled the passions and disposed the hearts of the
barbarous Arabs in our favour, and had finally
brought us to the arms of such a friend. Tears of joy
streamed from our eyes, and Rais bel Cossim was so
much affected at this interview, that in order to con-
ceal his weeping, he hid himself behind the wall ;
for the Moors, as well as the Arabs, hold the shed-
ding of tears to be a womanish and degrading weak-
ness. After a short pause, when Mr. Willshire had
in some measure recovered, he said, "Come, my
friends, let us go to the city ; my house is already
prepared for your reception." — The mules were led
up, and we were again placed on them and rode off
slowly towards Mogadore. Mr. Savage and Clark
were on one mule, and Burns and Horace on another,
for the purpose of mutually supporting each other j
but their debility was such, that they fell off on the
beach two or three times before they reached the
city; — however, it was on the soft sand, and as they
■were very light, they seemed to have received no
material injury ; — they were again placed on the mules,
and steadied until our arrival at the gates of Swe-
arah, by Moors walking beside them. The gateway
298
was crowded with Moors, Jews, and negroes — the
news of our coming having spread through the city,
and a curiosity to see Christian slaves, had brought
them together in great numbers ; and the men and
boys of the rabble were only restrained from com-
mittijig violence on us, by the gate-keepers and a few
soldiers, who voluntarily escorted us toMr. Willshire's
house, and in some measure kept off the crowd:
there we were taken from our mules; but some sol-
diers coming in at that instant, said it was the Ba-
shaw's orders that we should appear before him im-
mediately, and we were constrained to obey : it was
but a few steps, and we were enabled to walk there
by supporting one another. When we came to the
door, we were ushered into a kind of entry-way, which
served as an audience chamber, by Mr. Willshire's
Jew interpreter, who in token of submission, was ob-
liged to pull off his cap and slippers before he could
enter. — We were ordered to sit down on the floor,
and we then saw before us a very respectable looking
Moor, of about sixty years of age : he was sitting
cross-leg2;ed on a mat or carpet that lay on the
floor, which was terrace-work, drinking tea from a
small cup — his dress was the haick. After he had
finished his cup of tea and looked at us a moment, he
asked me, through the interpreter, what countryman
I was ? where my vessel was wrecked ? how many
men I had in all, and if the remainder were alive ?
how long I had been ^ slave, and if the Arab, my
last master, had treated me kindly ? He wanted,
further, to know how much money from my vessel
fftli into the hands of the Arabs, and what other cargf>
SUFFERINGS IN ATTRICA. 299
she had on board. Having satisfied his inquiries in
the best manner'! was able, he said we were.no w free,
and he would write to the emperor respecting me
and my men, and hoped he would give us leave to
go home to our country : — he then dismissed us. Mr.
Willshire was with us, and answered all the ques-
tions the Bashaw chose to put to him, and then as-
sisted us in returning to his house.
k
CHAP. XXIV.
The author and his companions are cleansed^ clothed^
and fed — he becomes delirious, but is again restored
to reason — the kindness of Mr. Willshire — letter from
Horatio Sprague, Esq. of Gibraltar — author'' s refec-
tions on his past sufferings and on the providential
chain of events that had fitted him for enduring them,
and miraculously supported and restored him and his
four cojnpanions to their liberty.
Upon our arrival at Mr.Willshire's house,some Jews
were ready to shave off our beards, and as the hair
of our heads was also in a very unpleasant condition ;
being literally filled with vermin ; that, as well as
our beards, underwent the operation of the scissors
and razor : the hair was cut off at least as close as
the horrible state of our skin and flesh would admit
of: this may be imagined, but it is absolutely too
shocking for description. Our squalid and emaciated
frames were then purified with soap and water, and
300 CAPTAIN RrfLEV's NARRATIVE.
our humane and genferous friend furnished us with
some of his own clothing, after our bodies, which
were still covered with sores, had been rubbed with
sweet oil. Mr. Willshire's cook had by this time
prepared a repast, which consisted of beef cut into
square pieces, just large enough for a mouthful before
it waa cooked; these were then rolled in onions, cut
up fine, and mixed with salt and pepper; they were
in the next place put on iron skewers and laid hori-
zontally across a pot of burning charcoal, and turned
over occasionally, until it was perfectly roasted: this
dish is called Cubbub, and in my opinion far surpasses
in flavour the so much admired beef-steak ; as it is
eaten hot from the skewers, and is indeed an excel-
lent mode of cooking beef. — We ate sparingly of
this delicious food, which was accompanied with some
good wheaten bread and butter, and followed by a
quantity of exquisite pomegranates ; for our stomachs
were contracted to such a degree by long fastings,
that they had lost their tone, and could not receive
the usual allowance for a healthy man. — A doctor
then appeared and administered to each of us a dose
of physic, which he said was to prepare our stomachs
for eating. He was a Jew, who had been bred at
Moscow in Russia, had studied medicine there, and
had since travelled through Germany, Italy, and
Spain; he spoke the Spanish language fluently, and
I was convinced, before I left Mogadore, that he pos-
sessed much medical as well as surgical skill. He
had only been in Swearah or Mogadore two months,
and there was no other physician in that city, or in
that part of the country, except jugglers or quacks.
SUFFERl^GS IN AFRICA. 301
Good beds had been fitted up for myself and Mr.
Savage in the same room, and after being welcomed
hy Mr. John Foxcroft and Don Pablo Riva, who had
heard of our arrival, we retired to rest.
My mind, which (though mj body was worn down
to a skeleton) had been hitherto strong, and support-
ed me through all mv trials, distresses, and suffer-
ings, and enabled me to encourage and keep up the
spirits of my frequently despairing fellow-sufferers,
could no longer sustain me : my sudden change of
situation seemed to have relaxed the very springs of
my soul, and all my faculties fell into the wildest
confusion. The unbounded kindness, the goodness,
and whole attention of Mr. Willshire, who made use
of all the soothino; lano;ua«ce of which the most affec-
tionate brother or friend is capable, tended but to
ferment the tempest that was gathering in my brain.
I became delirious — was bereft of my senses — and for
the space of three days knew not , where I was.— ^
When my reason returned, I found I had been con-
stantly attended by Mr. Willshire, and generally kept
in ray room, though he would sometimes persuade
me to walk in the gallery with him, and used every
means in his power to restore and compose my bewil-
dered senses : that I had remained continually bathed
in tears, and shuddering at the sight of every human
being, fearing I should again be carried into slavery.
I had slunk into the darkest corner of my room ; but
though insensible, I seemed to know the worth of my
friend and deliverer, and would agree to, and compiy
with his advice and directions.
302 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
In the mean time, this most estimable and noble
minded young man, had neither spared pains nor
expense in procuring for us every comfort, and in
administering, with his own hands, night and day,
such reh'ef and refreshment as our late severe suffer-
ings and present debility required. He had sent
off persons on mules to the vicinity of the city of Mo-
rocco, more than one hundred miles, and procured
some of the most delicious fruits that country can
produce, such as dates, figs, grapes, pomegranates,
&c. — He o^ave us for drink the best of wines, and
I again began to have an' appetite for my food, which
was prepared with the greatest care. My men were
furnished with shirts, trowsers, and jackets, and being
fed with the most nourishing soups and other kinds
of food, gained a considerable degree of strength.
Captain Wallace, of the English brig Pilot, then being
in the port, furnished us with some pork, split peas,
and potatoes, and seemed very friendly. Clark and
Burns were but the skeletons of men — Mr. Savage
and Horace were nearly as much reduced, but not
having been diseased in so great a degree, they were
consequently stronger. Many of my bones, as well
as my ribs,had been divested entirely, not only of flesh,
but of skin, and had appeared white hke dry bones
when on the desart; but they were now nearly
covered again, though we still might with some reason
be termed the dry skeletons of Moorish slaves. At
the instance of Mr. Wiltshire I was weighed, and
fell short of ninety pounds, though ray usual Aveight,
for the last ten years, had been over two hundred
and forty pounds : the weight of my companions was
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 363
less than I dare to mention, for I apprehend it would
not be beheved, that the bodies of men retaining the
vital spark, should not weigh forty pounds.
The sight of my face in a glass called to ray recol-
lection all the trying scenes I had passed through
since my shipwreck ; — I could contemplate with plea-
sure and gratitude the power, and wisdom, and fore-
knowledge of the Supreme Being, as well as his mercy
and unbounded goodness. I could plainly discover
that the train of events which, in my former life, I
had always considered as great misfortunes, had been
directed by unerring wisdom, and had fitted me for
running the circle marked out by the Omnipotent.
When 1 studied the French and Spanish languages,
I did it from expectations of future gain in a com-
mercial point of view. All the exertions I had
hitherto made to become acquainted with foreign
languages, and to store my mind with learning and
a knowledge of mankind, had procured for me no
wealth ; without which acquirement a man is gene-
rally considered on the stage of the world as a very
insignificant creature, that may be kicked off or tram-
pled upon by the pampered worms of his species, who
sport around him with all the upstart pride of (in
many instances) ill-gotten treasure. I had been
cheated and swindled out of property by those whom
I considered my friends; yet my mind was formed
for friendship; — I do not speak of this in the way of
boasting. My hand had never been slack in relieving
the distresses of my fellow men whenever I had the
power, in the different countries where I had been;
but I had almost become a stoic, and had very nearly
304 CAPTAIN KILEy's NARRATiyE,
concluded, that disinterested friendship and benevo-
lence, out of the circle of a man's own family, was not
to be found; that the virtuous man,if poor,wasnot only
despised, by his more fortunate fellow creatures, but
forsaken almost by Providence itself I now, however,
had positive proof to the contrary of some of those
hasty and ill-founded opinions ; and I clearly saw
that I had only been tutored in the school of adversity,
in order that I might be prepared for fulfilling the
purpose for which I had been created.
In the midst of those reflections! received, by a cou-
rier from Consul General Simpson, at Tangier, to Mr.
Willshire, the following letter : — it speaks the soul of
the writer, and needs no comment.
Gibraltar^ 1 3/A JS'ovemher, 1815.
My DEAR Riley,
I will not waste a moment by unnecessary pre-
amble. I have wrote to Mr. Willshire, that your draft
on me for twelve hundred dollars, or more, shall be
duly paid for the obtainment of your liberty, and
those with you. I have sent him two double barrelled
guns to meet his promise to the Moor. — In a short
time after the receipt of this, I hope to have the hap-
piness to take you by the hand under my roof again.
You will come here by the way of Tangier.
Your assured friend,
Horatio Spkague.
My sensations on reading this letter, and on seeing
that written by Mr. Sprague to Mr. Willshire, I must
leave to the reader to imagine, and only observe that
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 30.^
wj acquaintance with that gentleman was but very
slight, say about ten days, while I remained at Gib-
raltar, immediately before my disaster — it was suffi-
cient for him to know his fellow creatures were in
distress, and that it was in his power to relieve them.
Mr. Sprague is a native of Boston, the capital of
the State of Massachusetts, and had established him-
self as a respectable merchant in Gibraltar a little
before the breaking out of the late war. — In the early
part of that war a number of American vessels were
despatched by individuals with cargoes of provisions,
&c. for Spain and Portugal — these vessels were navi-
gated under enemies' licenses, but from some cause
or other, many of them were seized on the ocean by
British ships of war, and conducted to Gibraltar;
where both the vessels and their carojoes were con-
demned, and their crews turned adrift in the streets
without a cent of money in their pockets, and left to
the mercy of the elements. Mr. Gavino, the Ameri-
can consul, would not act in their behalf, because (as
he stated) his functions had ceased by reason of the
war; — when this humane and generous gentleman
took them under his protection, hired the hulk of
an old vessel for them to live in, furnished them with
provisions and other necessaries and comforts for the
term of one whole year or upwards, and in this man^
ner supported for the greater part of that time as
many as one hundred and fifty men — this he did from
his own purse, and out of pure philanthropy — of this
I was informed by Mr. Charles Moore, of Philadel-
phia, and other gentlemen of respectability and vera-
city. He als9 furnish^ and sent a considerable sum
R r
306 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
ofmoney to Algiers, which bought from hard labour
our unfortunate countrymen, comprising the officerss
and crew of the brig , Captain Smith, of Boston,
who were made slaves by that regency ; — in this he
was assisted by Messrs. Charles H. Hall & Co. mer-
chants at Cadiz, and several other v/orthy and respec-
table Americans; but the loss of the United States'
sloop of war the Epervier, when homeward bound,
having on board all the redeemed slaves after the
peace with Algiers, rendered it impossible for them
to communicate their sense of gratitude for Mr.
Sprague's humanity. These facts were stated to me
by several respectable individuals in Gibraltar, and
can be authenticated beyond a doubt.
After my mind had been again tranquillized by a
refreshing night's sleep, my reflections returned to my
providential preservation.
When my vessel was wrecked, I was endued with
presence of mind, judgment, and prudence, whereby
my whole crew was saved in the first instance, and
safely landed. When I was seized on afterwards by
the Arabs, a superior intelligence suddenly suggested
to my mind a stratagem by which my life was saved,
though one of my unfortunate companions was sacri-
ficed to glut the brutal ferocity of the natives, whilst
I was conducted to the wreck in safety through a
tremendous surf that rolled over me every instant.
The wayp oi" Providence were next traced out to my
wondering eyes in the smoothing down of the sea, so
that we were enabled to row our crazy boat out with
safety to the ocean, and in our preservation in an open
boat amidst violent gales of wind, though her timbers
and planks seemed only to hold together by the pres-
BUFFERINGS IS AFRICA. 307
sure of the sea acting upon their outer side. When
destitute of provisions and water, worn down with
privations and fatigues, we were again landed on
the coast, carried on the top of a dreadful wave
over the heads of craggy rocks that must have
dashed us and our boat to atoms without a particu-
lar divine protection. We were next forced to
. climb over the most formidable precipices and ob-
structions, before it was possible to arrive on the
dreary desart above us: these delays were necessary
to bring us, at a proper time, within sight of fires
kindled by Arabs, who had arrived there that day,
(and who were the first, as I was afterwards in-
formed, who had been there to water their camels
within the last thirty days,) and who were provi-
dentially sent to save our lives, as we could not have
existed a day longer without drink. Though my
skin was burned off by the sun's rays, and myself
given as a slave to those wandering wretches — the
same Almighty power still preserved my life, endowed
me with intelligence to comprehend a language I had
never before heard spoken, and enabled me to make
myself understood by that people, and in some degree
respected. Sidi Hamet (though a thievish Arab)
had been sent from the confines of the Moorish
Empire before I left Gibraltar: he was conducted
by the same unerring wisdom to my master's tent ;
his heart was softened at the recital of my distresses,
and instead of trading in the article of ostrich
feathers, (which was his whole business there, as he
believed) he was persuaded by a wretched naked
•keleton of a slave, merely retaining the glimmering
308 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
of the vital spark, against his own judgment, and
directly and strenuously opposed by his brother and
partner, who insisted that if even I told the truth,
and had a friend in Morocco to purchase me on my
arrival there, yet my death must certainly happen
long before it was possible to get me to that place :
yet this same brother, one of the most barbarous of
men, was forced, though against his will, to agree, and
to lend the aid of his property in effecting the pur-
chase, and to exert himself to support and to defend
myself and four companions through the desart,
whilst all his schemes for selling and separating us
had constantly proved abortive. A Spanish barque
had been destroyed by the natives on the coast of
Suse, north of Cape Nun, and nineteen men had
been either massacred by the natives, or were
groaning out a miserable existence in the worst
kind of barbarian slavery — this event alone had fur-
nished a piece of paper on which I wrote the note,
at a venture, to Mogadore : my note fell into the
hands of a perfect stranger, whose name I had never
even heard of, and who was as ignorant of mine.
This excellent young man was touched by the same
power who had hitherto protected me: he agreed to
pay the sum demanded without reflection, though
his utter ruin might have been the consequence,
trusting implicitly to the written word of a wretched
naked slave ; a person of whom he had no know-
ledge, and who was then three hundred miles dis-
tant, and even out of the power of the government
that protected him ; and his impatience to relieve my
distresses was so great, that he instantly paid the
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 309
money demanded by my master, on his simply agree-
ing to stay in Swearah (Mogadore) until we came
up, but without the power to keep him one instant if
lie chose to go away ; nor would he allow time to
the magnanimous Moor, who kindly volunteered to
go down after us, at the imminent risk of his life,
scarcely to take leave of his family : mounting him
on his own mule, and begging him to hurry on, day
and night, until he reached us, and to spare neither
pains or expense in fetching us to Mogadore.
I cannot here omit mentioning the manner in
which Mr. Willshire got ray first note. Sidi Hamet
(the bearer of it) was one of those Arabs belonging
to a tribe, surnamed by the Moors sons of Lions,
on account of their unconquerable spirit; when he
came to the gate of Swearah or Mogadore, he provi-
dentially was met by Rais bel Cossim, who though a
perfect stranger, asked him, " From whence come
you, son of a lion?" Upon which Sidi Hamet stop-
ped, and made known his business. This Moor was
the only one which Mr. Willshire placed coafidence
in, or treated as a friend : he conducted Sidi Hamet to
Mr. Willsliire's house, and offered to leave his family,
who were then sick, and to do his utmost to restore
me and my men to liberty. Providence had also
caused us to be stopped at Stuka, where we had
time to recover, in part, from our illness, and to gain
strength enough to support us through the remainder
of our journey; had turned the contrivances of
Sheick AH into nothingness, and finally provided for
us such a friend as Mr. Sprague of Gibraltar, one
©f the most feeling and best of men.
310 CAPTAIN RILEY*S NARRATIVE.
This providential chain of events, thus planned
and executed, even against the will of the principal
agents employed, filled my mind with unutterable
thankfulness and wonder at the wisdom, the good-
Bess, and the mercy of God towards me ; and the
emotions which these reflections excited kept me
almost constantly bathed in tears for the greatest
part of a month. When I retired to rest, and sleep
had closed my eyes, my mind still retaining the
strong impression of my past sufferings, made them
the subjects of my dreams. I used to rise in my
sleep, and think I was driving camels up and down
the sandy hills near the desart, or along the craggy
steeps of Morocco : obeying my master's orders in
putting on my fetters, or beckets, on the legs and
knees of his camels, and in the midst of my agoni-
zing toils and heart-sickening anxieties, while gro-
ping about my room, I would hit my head against
something, which would startle and awaken me:
then I would throw myself on my bed again to sleep,
and dream, and act over similar scenes. Fearing I
should get out of my chamber and injure myself in
my sleep, I always locked the door, and hid the key
before I went to bed. There was a grating to the
windows of the apartments I slept in, and I often
awoke and found myself trying to get out. My
mind at length became more composed and serene
as my strength increased, and by the first of Decem-
ber I was able to ride out, and to walk about the
city. Mr. Willshire, whose whole attention had
been shown to me and my companions, tried every
means to divert my mind from the subject of my
SUFFERINGS IN AFRICA. 311
reflections, and would ride out with me to a garden
two miles out of the city, accompanied by a Moor,
where we passed away many pleasant hours, which
were endeared by every feeling and sentiment
of gratitude and esteem on the one part, and of
generous sympathy and god-like benevolence on the
other.
In this garden stood a venerable fig-tree, whose
body and boughs were covered with the names, and
initials of the names, of almost all the Europeans
and Americans who had visited Swearah, or Moga-
dore, carved out with knives in the thick bark, ac-
companied with the dates of their several visits, &c.
This was a kind of monument I delighted to examine;
it seemed to say that Swearah was once a flourishing
city, when its commerce was fostered by the Moor-
ish government; but now, thatsuperstition,fanaticism,
and tyranny bear sway, they have swept away,
with their pernicious breath, the whole wealth of its
once industrious and highly favoured inhabitants; —
have driven the foreigner from their shores, and it
seems as if the curse of Heaven had fallen on the
whole land, for in spite of all the exertions of its
cultivators and the fertility of the soil, severe
droughts, and the ravages of the locusts, have fre-
quently caused a famine in that country, from whence
wheat was exported in immense quantities but a few
years past for Spain and Portugal, at half a dollar
per bushel. Not a single bushel had been shipped
for some years past, and at this time none was to
be had at any price, except now and then a few
kags, brought from the province of Duquella, which
312 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
could only be purchased by the most wealthy: the
others were provided with scanty portions of barley,
®f which they made their coos-coo-soo.
CHAP. XXV.
The author's motives for requesting o/", and writing
down, his former master'^s narrative of Travels on
the Desart when in Mogadore, together with Sidi
Hamet'^s narrative of a journey across the great de-
sart to Tombuctoo, and back again to Wednoon, with
a caravan.
From the time I had a prospect of being redeem^
ed from slavery, I had determined (if that should
ever happen) to write an account of our sufferings,
which I considered orreater than had ever fallen to
the lot of man, and also to embody such observa-
tions as I had been enabled to make while a slave,
in travelling the great desart, &c. &:c. for the satis-
faction of my family and the friends of my fellow-suf-
ferers. My late master was yet in Mogadore, for he
remained in the house of my deliverer about two
weeks after our arrival, and he now mentioned to
me that heandhis brother had been three times to
Tombuctoo (as he had before informed Mr. Will-
shire) with caravans, and had crossed the desart in
almost every direction. I felt interested in making
every inquiry that could suggest itself to my mind
respecting the face and the extent of the desart and
the countries south of it; and although I was con-
vinced, by my own observations, that both he and his
SUPFEUllNGS IN AFRICA. 313
brother, probably In common with the Arabs of the
desart, knew the courses they steered, notwithstand-
ing they had no compass or any other instrument to
direct them in their journeys, yet wishing to be fully
satisfied in this particular, I took them up upon the
roof of the house (which was flat and terraced with
stones laid in lime cement, and smooth like a floor)
one clear evening, and then told them that I wanted
to know by what means they were enabled to find
their way across the trackless desart. Sidi Hamet
immediately pointed out to me the north or polar
star, and the great bear, and told me the Arabic
names of the principal fixed stars, as well as of the
planets, then visible in the firmament, and his man-
ner of steering and reckoning time by the means of
them. His correct observations on the stars, per-
fectly astonished me : he appeared to be much bet-
ter acquainted with the motions of the heavenly bo-
dies than I was, who had made it my study for a
great many years, and navigated to many parts of
the globe by their assistaijce. To convince me that
he knew the cardinal points, he laid two small sticks
across at right angles, one pointing directly towards
the polar star — he next placed two others across,
dividing the circle into eighths, and then in like man-
ner into sixteenths, so that I was satisfied he knew
the requisite divisions of the compass : and on the
next day I requested him to give me a narrative of
his journeyings on, and across the desart, with which
he very readily complied, and related as follows;—
while I sat in my room with pen, ink, and paper,
and n»ted it down, having the Moor bel Mooden to
9 S
314 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
interpret and explain to me in Spanish such parts of
the narrative as I did not perfectly comprehend in
Arabic. I give it to the reader as nearly as possible
in the words of the narrator, and do not hold myself
responsible for Sidi Hamet's correctness, or his ve-
racity, though for ray own part I have no doubt but
he meant to, and did tell the truth as near as his re-
collection served him, and as he had a retentive
memory, and the Incidents related were calculated
to impress themselves strongly on his intelligent
mind, I have no doubt but his whol» narrative is
substantially true.
SECTION I.
Sidi Hamefs narrative of a journey from Widnoon
across the great Desart to Tombuctoo, and back again
to Widnoon.
" The first time I set out to cross the great de-
sart, was several years ago, (about nine or ten) be-
ing in the vicinity of Widnoon, where I had the year
before been married to the daughter of Sheick Ali,
(a beautiful woman, who is now my wife, and has two
fine boys and one girl.) I, with my brother Seid,
joined the caravan at Widnoon, by the advice of
Sheick Ali: we had four camels loaded with haicks
and some other goods. The whole caravan consisted
of about three thousand camels and eight hundred
men, with goods of almost every kind that are sold
in Morocco. The men were all armed with good
muskets and scimitars, and the whole under the com-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 315
mand of Sketch ben Soleyman of Waldeleim, (Woled
Deleim on the map) with four good guides. We
set out from WIdnoon, in Suse, which is a great
place of trade, late in the fall of the year, and tra-
velled six days to the west, when we came to the last
mountain — there we stopped ten days, and let our
camels feed on the bushes, while half the men were
employed in getting wood from the mountain, and
burning it into charcoal, which we put into bags, as
it was light, and laid it on the camels over the other
goods ; then setting off for the desart, we mounted
up to its level, which is a great deal higher than the
country near it to the north, and travelled four days
on the hard level ; we then passed amongst the high
sand hills, which you saw when we were coming up,
in order that we might keep along by the great sea,
so as to be sure of findino; water; we travelled
through and among these great mountains of sand,
which were then very bad to pass, because the wind
blew so hard, we could scarcely keep together, being
almost covered up by the flying sand : it took us six
days to get through them ; after which the ground
was smooth, and almost as hard as the floor of a
house, for ten days more, when we came to a water-
ing place, called Biblah ; there Ave watered our cam-
els, for they were very thirsty, and eight of them
had died and served us for food. We stopped at
that great well seven days, and afterwards kept on
our journey to the S. W. twenty days, to another
well, called Kibir Jibl, but there was no water in it,
and we were obliged to go six days' journey to the
sea-coast, where there was a well close to the sea^,
316 Captain riley's narrative.
whose water was very black and salt: liere we were
forced to unload the camels, and get them down the
bank to the water, but after drinking, they yielded
us some milk, which had been almost dried up be-
fore : — we foimd, however, nothing for them to feed
on, and had been oblisced to orive them of the coals
to eat once a day for many days : this kept them
alive, but it made their milk almost as black as the
coals themselves ; yet it was good, and we were
glad to get it. It took up six days to water the
whole of them, when we set out again, and travelled
near the sea, where we found wells about every ten
days, like the one we had already visited, but very
few green leaves on the little bushes, in the few
small valleys we saw, for no rain had fallen for a
great while on that part of the desart.
" After a journey of four moons, we came to the
south part of the desart, and went down into the
country of Soudain, where we found a little stream
of good running water, and some bushes, and some
grass, and a very large tribe of Bessebes Arabs,,
(Libdessebas on the map) wfio had plenty of barley
and maize or Indian corn, of which we bought some?
and made bread, and stopped here one moon. We
lost on the desart more than three hundred camels,
which died of fatigue, and the want of water and
food, but not one man. All the tribes of Arabs we
came near, took their stuff on their camels, and rode
away as fast as they could, so as not to be robbed,
and we did not find any party strong enough to at-
tack us, although we saw a great many tribes, but
they were very poor on the Zaharah^ or great
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 317
ilesart." I then i.sked him how the face of the de-
sart looked in general, as he passed over it, taking
the whole together, orif tliere was any material dif-
ference in different parts of it, near the sea-coast ?
to which he answered : —
" The whole extent of the desart near the sea-
coast, is like that we came over in bringing you up
here, except in one place, where we travelled for
nearly one moon, without meeting with so much as
one valley with green bushes in it for the camels to
feed on : the whole is a trackless waste. Close by
the sea we were obliged to pass mountains of sand
that was blown up from the shore before the wind,
but the guides always went before us, to show which
way the caravan must go, and to find a place to stop
in. Our camels had eaten up all the coals we had
laid upon them before we got off the desart, and
two of them had died, so that my brother and I had
only two remaining, but we kept all our goods. Af-
ter we had rested one moon, and got our camels re-
cruited, we set off to the east on the border of the
desart, close by the low country, with mountains in
sight to the south, most of the way, and in two
moons more we came near Tombuctoo, where we
stopped in a deep valley with the caravan, and went
every day close to the strong walls of the city with
our goods (but without our guns) to trade them off
with the negroes, who had gum, and gold rings, and
gold powder, and great teeth, such as are sold in
Swearah, (i. e. elephants' teeth,) and slaves, and fine
turbans : they had plenty of cows, and asses, and a
few sheep, and barley, corn, and rice ; but the little
318
river that runs close to the wall on the west, was
quite dry, and all the people in the city were obliged
to fetch water for themselves to drink, with asses,
from the great river south of the city, (about one
hour's ride on a camel) and we were forced to go
there to water our camels, and get our drink.
" After staying near Tombuctoo one itioon and a
half, the season being far advanced, we set out again
for Widnoon. I had not been in the city all the* time
we stopped here, because I was chosen captain of
two hundred men that kept guard all the time about
the caravan, to keep otf the thievish Arabs and the
bands of negroes that were hovering around us to
carry off our camels, if any of them strayed aAvay;
but we lost only twenty during our whole stay at
Tombuctoo, and the Sheick gave me for my trouble
a fine young negro girl slave, which I carried home
with me, and she now lives with my wife. We set
out for home from Tombuctoo in the month of
Rhamadan.) after the feast, and went back by the
same route we had come — that is to say, we went
iirst to the west, one moon, along the border of the
desart. We durst not take any thing without pay-
ing for it, because we were afraid of the inhabitants,
who were a mixture of Arabs and negroes, and all
of them Mohammedans, but very bad men : they
had also many* white men slaves. I saw sixteen or
eighteen myself, and a great many blacks. These
True believers have very fine horses, and they go
south to the country of the rivers, and there they
attack and take towns, and bring away all the ne-
groes for slaves, if they will not believe in the pro-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 319
phet of God ; and carry off all their cattle, rice, and
corn, and burn their houses ; but if they will adopt
the true faith, they are then exempt from slavery,
and their houses are spared, upon their surrender-
ing up one-half of their cattle, and half of their rice
and corn; because, they say, God has delivered their
enemies into their hands. The negroes live in
small towns, fenced in with reeds or bushes, and
sometimes with stones, but the Arabs live only in
tents, and can move off in a minute on their horses,
whilst their wives and children ride en camels and
asses. Before we struck off N. W. on the desart
for the sea coast, we stopped in the hill country,
and fatted our camels, and burned wood to make
charcoal to carry with us : we were encamped on
the bank of a little river, one day's journey from a
large town of nei^roes, named Jathrow. I did not go
to it, but the Sheick did, and bought some corn and
barley, and forty oxen for our provisions.
" After we had prepared our coals, and laid in our
provisions, we went up on to the level desart, and
set off to the N. W., and in three moons and a half
more we reached Widnoon again, having been gone
almost a year and a half. We had lost about five
hundred camels, that either died, or were killed to
give us meat, and while we stayed at Tombuctoo, and
were coming home, thirty-four of our men had died,
and we lost eighty slaves." I asked him what were
the goods they carried down at that time ^ he an-
sw.ered : —
" We had about one hundred camels loaded with
iron and knives, and two hundred with salt ; all the
320 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
others carried haicks, and blue and white cloth, and
amber, and tobacco, and silk handkerchiefs, and
chilly weed^ and spices, and a great many other arti-
cles. Seid and myself had lost two of our camels,
but had got two negro slaves, and some gold dust,
worth six camels, and ornaments for our wives ; but
Sheick Ali was not satisfied, because I did not give
him two slaves ; so that he made war against me, and
battered down my town which I built, (it was but a
small one) and took away all I had, together with
my wife, because he said I was a bad man, and he
was stronger than me : I myself, however, escaped,
and after one year I asked him for my wife again,
and he gave her to me with all he had taken, for he
loved his daughter : but I had no house, so I re-
moved into the sultan's dominions, near the city of
Morocco, close by the Atlas mountains, and lived
there with my father and brothers two years, with-
out going forth to trade."
SECTION II.
Sidi Hamet sets out on another journey for Tombuctoo
— the caravan is mostly destroyed for ivanf of water^
by drifting sand, and by mutiny, &c. — the few that
escape, get to the south of the desart.
" About that time one of our party, when we
first went to Tombuctoo, named bel Moesc, came to
see me — he was going to join the caravan at Wid-
noon again, and persuaded Seid and me to go with
hira ; so we bought eight camels between us, anil
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 321
sold off our cattle and sheep, and bought goods and
powder, and went with him to Widnoon, and joined
the caravan. Sheick Ali came to meet me like a
friend, and gave me two camels laden with barley,
and wished me a safe journey. The Sheick who
was chosen by all the people to command the cara-
van, was named Sidi Ishrel ; he was the friend of
Sidi Ishem, who owned almost one-half of the whole
caravan, and we set out from Widnoon, with about
four thousand camels, and more than one thousand
men, all well armed. We laid in an abundant store
of barley, and had a great many milch camels, and
it was determined to go south across the desart,
nearly on a straight course for Tombuctoo, by the
way the great caravans generally travelled; though
there had been several of them destroyed on that
route, that is to say, one within every ten or twelve
years. We went to the south, around the bottom
of the great Atlas mountains, six days' journey;
then we stopped close by it, and cut wood and burn-
ed coals for the camels, for the caravans never at-
tempt to cross the desart without this article ; four
hundred camels out of the number were loaded
with provisions and water for the journey, and after
having rested ten days, and given the camels plenty
of drink, we went up on the desart, and steered off
to the south-easterly. We travelled along, and met
with no sand for fifteen days ; it was all a smooth
surface, baked together so hard, that a loaded camel
could not make a track on it to be seen : we saw no
tracks to guide us, and kept our course by the stars,
and sun, and moon. We found only one spot ia all
T t
322 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
that time where our camels could satisfy their appe-
tites by eating the shrubs in a shallow valley, but
the great well in it was filled up with stones and
sand, so we could procure no water there ; at the
end of fifteen days, however, we came to a very fine
deep valley, with twenty wells in it; but we found
water in only six of them, because the desart was
very dry : here we watered all our camels, and re-
plenished our bottles or skins, and having rested
seven days, we departed for the south-eastward,
our camels being well filled with leaves and thorn
bushes.
" We travelled along three days on the hard
sand, and then arrived among innumerable drifts of
fine loose sand ; not such coarse sand as you saw
near the sea; it was as fine as the dust on a path,
or in a house, and the camels' feet sunk in it every
step up to their knees : after travelling amongst
this sand (which in the day-time was almost as hot
as coals of fire) six days, there began to blow a
fierce wind from the south-east, called the wind of;]
the desart, bringing death and destruction with it:
we could not advance nor retreat, so we took the
loading from off our camels, and piled it in one great
heap, and made the camels lie down. The dust
flew so thick that we could not see each other nor
our camels, and were scarcely able to breathe — so
we laid down with our faces in the dust, and cried
aloud with one voice to God — ' great and merciful
God, spare our lives !' but the wind blew dreadfully
for the space of two days, and we were obliged to
move ourselves whenever the sand got so heavy on
OBSERVATIOi\S ON AFRICA. 323
US that it shut out all the air, and prevented us from
breathing; but at length it pleased the Most High to
hear our supplications : the wind ceased to blow; all
was still again, and we crawled out of the sand that
had buried us for so long a time, but not all, for
when the company was numbered, three hundred
were missing — all that were left having joined in
thanks to God for his mercy in sparing our lives; —
we then proceeded to dig out the camels from the
sand that had buried their bodies, which, together
with the reloading of them, took us two days.
About two hundred of them were dead — there was
no green thing to be seen, and we were obliged to
give the camels a little water from the skins, to wash
their parched throats with, and some charcoal to
eat: then we kept on twenty-four days as fast as
we could through the dry, deep, and hot sand, with-
out finding any green bushes worth noticing for our
camels to eat, when we came to a famous valley
and watering place, called Haherah. All our cam-
els were almost expiring, and could not carry the
whole of their loads; so we threw away a great deal
of the salt before we got to Haherah^ where we in-
tended to stop twenty days to recruit our beasts, but
who can conceive our disappointment and distress,
when we found there was no water in any of the
wells of this great valley : not one drop of rain had
fallen there for the last year. The caravan, that
amounted to upwards of one thousand men and four
thousand camels when we set out, was already re-
duced to about six hundred men, and thirty-five hun-
dred camels. The authority of Sheick Ishrel coulel
224 CAPTAIN RILErS NARRATIVE.
now scarcely restrain those almost desperate menj
every one was eager to save his own life and pro-
perty, and separately sought the means of relief by
running about the valley in a desultory manner,
lookins: for water; this disorder continued for two
days, when being convinced that nothing could be
done without union, they became obedient, and
joined together in great numbers in digging out the
diflferent wells. After digging five days without
the smallest sign of water, all subordination was en-
tirely at an end. The Sheick, who was a wise and
a prudent man, advised and insisted that all the
camels should be killed but three hundred, so that
the little water found in tliem, together with their
blood, might keep the rest alive, as well as all the
men, until, by the aid of Providence, they should
reach some place where tliey could find w^ater ; but
the comoany would not hearken to this advice,
though the best that could possibly be given; no
one being willing to have his own property sacrificed.
Sheich Iskrel^ however, directed thirty of the oldest
and most judicious men to. pick out the three hun-
dred camels that were to be spared, who according-
ly selected the most vigorous ; but when they began
to kill the others., a most furious quarrel and horri-
ble battle commenced. The Sheick, though a man
of God, w^as killed in a moment — two or three hun-
dred more were butchered by each other in the
course of that dreadful day ; and the blood of the
slain was drank to allay the thirst of those who shed
it. Seid was badly wounded with a dagger in his
arm : about five hundred camels were killed this
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. • 325
liay; and 'the others drank tlie water from their
bodies, and also their blood.
" Fearing there would be no end to this bloody
conflict until all had perished, and as I had been a
captain in the other caravan, and knew, how to steer
a course on the desart ; and as both Seid and myself
were very strong men, we killed four out of six of
our own camels that remained, in the first part of the
night, and gave their water and blood to the other
two : we saved a small package of goods, and some
barley, and some meat, and persuaded thirty of our
friends privately to do as we had done, and join us,
for we meant to set off that night. This was agreed
on, for to stay there was certain death, and to go
back was no less so. We were all ready about mid-
night, and without making any noise, w^e moved off
with our company of thirty men and thirty-two
camels. The night was very cloudy and dark, and
it thundered at a distance, as if the Almighty was
angry with us for fighting together; but there was
no rain. We went tow^ards the south-west, in the
hope of reaching Tishlah, another watering-place,
before our camels died : the desart was dry and
hard, and as we went along, we found only now and
then a little hollow, with a few prickly shrubs in it :
these the camels devoured as we passed among
them; but many died, so that on the twelfth day we
had only eighteen camels left ; when the great God
saved our lives by sending a tempest of rain, but he
thundered so as to make the whole earth tremble,
because of our sins, and we all fell upon our faces
and implored his forgiveness : the rain that fell upon
326 » CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the ground gave plenty of water to our camels, and
we filled thirty skins with it; when we steered to
the south towards the borders of the desart. Nine
of our company had died, and many of our camels,
before we went down from the desart to the culti-
vated land, and we then made to the south towards
a little river of fresh water, to which some Arabs
whom we met with, directed us, after they had first
given us some rice and some milk, for all our milch
camels had died on the desart.
SECTION III.
Sidi Hamefs journeyings. His arrival on the ba?iks of
the river, called by the natives, Gozen-Zair, and at
Tombuctoo — description of that city — its commerce,
wealth, and inhabitants.
" Those of us who had escaped with our lives
from the desart, only twenty-one in number, with
twelve camels, out of a caravan of one thousand
men and four thousand camels, stopped near a small
town, called Wabilt, on the bank of a river about
half as broad as from the city of Mogadore to the
island, that is to say, fifty yards. We had no pro-
visions, but the negroes seeing us in distress, came
out and ofave us some meat, and bread made from
barley-corn : here we remained ten days to recruit
ourselves and our camels, which were just alive. The
river on whose bank we remained, was called by
those who spoke in Arabic, el Wod Te?nj, and by the
negroes, Gozen-zair. A very high ridge of moun-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 327
tains, great like Atlas seen from Suse, (but not cap-
ped witlisnovv) lie to the south-westward,and at a dis-
tance. After resting ourselves and ourtaraels for
ten days, we set forward for Tombuctoo. We trav-
elled for four days to the eastward through Soudan,
a hilly country, but of a very rich soil, and much of
it cultivated with the hoe." I then asked him what
he meant by Soudan.^ and he said, " The whole coun-
try south of the great desart from the great ocean,
a great way cast, and including the district of Tom-
buctoo, is called by the Arabs and Moors, Soudan:
of which Tombuctoo is the capital. Having wa-
tered our camels again, and finding the hill country
tedious to get through, by reason of the trees, we
bought some barley-corn, and killed two cows, and
went northward to the border of the desart, and
travelled on to the eastward for eight days, when
we fell in with the great path used by the caravans,
and in two days more came near to the walls of
Tombuctoo. ^^ e had seen a great many negroes
near the river: they live in small towns, fenced in
with large reeds, to keep off enemies and the wild
beasts in the night: they dwell in small round huts
made with cane standing upright, are covered with
the same materials, and daubed with mud, to fill up
the openings between them. The negroes were
afraid of us when we came near their little towns,
and those who were outside ran in and blocked up
the passage in a minute ; but finding we did not
come to rob them, as the large companies of Arabs
often do, but that we were poor and hungry, thej
were willing to exchange barley-corn and meat for
328 CAPTAIN riley's narratre.
some of our goods. Nearly all the few things we had
were expended to keep us alive until we came near
Tombuctof). The king and the people of that city had
been looking out for the caravan from Widnoon for two
moons, but not one soul had arrived before us, and
we were permitted to go into the city after deliver ino-
up our guns, powder, and lead, to the king's officers
to keep until we should wish to depart. Tombuctoo
is a very large city, five times as great as Swearah:
it is built on a level plain, surrounded on all sides
by hills, except on the south, where the plain con-
tinues to the bank of the same river we had been to
before, which is wide and deep, and runs to the east;
for we were obliged to go to it to water our camels,
and here we saw many boats made of great trees,
some with negroes in them paddling across the river.
The city is strongly walled in with stone laid in
clay, like the towns and houses in Suse, only a great
deal thicker : the house of the king is very large
and high, like the largest house in Mogadore, but
built of the same materials as the walls: there are
a great many more houses in that city built of stone,
with shops on one side, where they sell salt and
knives, and blue cloth, and haicks, and an abundance
of other things, with many gold ornaments. The
inhabitants are blacks, and the chief is a very large
and gray-headed old blackman, who is called Shegar,
which means sultan, or king. The principal part
of the houses are made with large reeds, as thick as
a man's arm, and stand upon their ends, and are
covered with small reeds iirst, and then with the
leaves of the date trees: they are round, and the
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 329
tops come to a point like a heap of stones. Neither
the Shegar nor his people are Moslemins, but there
is a town divided off from the principal one, in one
corner, bj a strong pai'tition wall, and one gate to
it, which leads from the main town, like the Jews'
town, or Mi 11 ah in Mogfadore : all the Moors or
Arabs who have liberty to come into Tombuctoo,
are obliged to sleep in that part of it every night,
or go out of the city entirely, and no stranger is
allowed to enter that Millah without leaving his
knife with the gate-keeper; but when he comes out
in the morning it is restored to him. The people
who live in that part are all Moslemin. The negroes,
bad Arabs, and Moors, are all mixed together, and
marry with each other, as if they were all of one
colour: they have no property of consequence, ex-
cept a few asses; their gate is shut and fastened
every night at dark, and very strongly guarded both
in the night and in the day-time. The Shegar or
king is always guarded by one hundred men on mules,
armed with good guns, and one hundred men on foot,
with guns and long knives. He would not go into
the Millah, and we only saw him four or five times
in the two moons we stayed at Tombuctoo, waiting
for the caravan : but it had perished on the desart —
neither did the yearly caravan from Tunis and Tri-
poli arrive, for it had also been destroyed. The city
of Tombuctoo is very rich as well as very large ; it
has four gates to it; all of them are opened in the day-
time, but very strongly guarded and shut at night.
The negro women are very fat and handsome, and
wear large round gold rings in their noses, and flat
u u
330 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
ones in their ears, and gold chains and amber beads
about their necks, with images and white fish-bones,
bent round, and the ends fastened together, hanging
down between their breasts; they have bracelets on
their wrists and on their ankles, and go barefoot.
I had bought a small snuff-box filled with snuff in
Morocco, and showed it to the women in the princi-
pal street of Tombuctoo, which is very wide : there
were a great many about me in a few minutes, and
they insisted on buying my snuff and box ; — one made
me one offer, and another made me another, until one,
who wore richer onaments than the rest, told me, in
broken Arabic, that she would take off all she had
about her and give them to me for the box and its
contents. I agreed to accept them, and she pulled off
h^v nose-rings and ear-rings, all her neck chains, with
their ornaments, and the bracelets from her wrists
and ankles, and gave them to me in exchange for it :
these ornaments would Aveigh more than a pound,
and were njade of solid gold at Tombuctoo, and I
kept them through my whole journey afterwards,
and carried them to my wife, who now wears a part
of them. Tombuctoo carries on a great trade with
all the caravans that come from Morocco and the
shores of the Mediterranean sea. From Algiers,
Tunis, Tripoli, &c. are brought all kinds of cloths,
iron, salt, muskets, powder, and lead, swords or scim-
itars, tobacco, opium, spices, and perfumes, amber
beads and other trinkets, with a few other articles;
thfey car/y back in return elephants' teeth, gold dust,
and wrought gold, gum Senegal, ostrich feathers,
very curiously worked turbans, and slaves; a great
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA* 331
many of the latter, and many other articles of less
importance : the slaves are brought in from the
south-west, all strongly ironed, and are sold very
cheap; so that a good stout man may be bought for
a haick, which costs in the empire of Morocco about
two dollars. The caravans stop and encamp about
two miles from the city in a deep valley, and the ne-
groes do not molest them ; they bring their merchan-
dise near the walls of the city, where the inhabitants
purchase all their goods in exchange for the above-
mentioned articles; not more than fifty men from
any one caravan being allowed to enter the city at a
time, and they must go out before others are permit-
ted to enter. This city also carries on a great trade
with Wassanah, (a city far to the south-east) in all
the articles that are brought to it by caravans, and
get returns in slaves, elephants' teeth, gold, &c.
The principal male inhabitants are clothed with blue
cloth shirts, that reach from their shoulders down to
their knees, and are very wide, and girt about their
loins with a red and brown cotton sash or girdle :
they also hang about their bodies pieces of different
coloured cloth and silk handkerchiefs: the king is
dressed in a white robe of a similar fashion, but
covered with white and yellow gold and silver plates,
that glitter in the sun; — he also has many other shin-
ing ornaments of shells and stones hanging about
him, and wears a pair of breeches like the Moors
and Barbary Jews, and has a kind of white turban
on his head, pointing up, and strung with different
kinds of ornaments; his feet are covered with red
Morocco shoes : he has no other weapon about him
332 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
than a large white staff or sceptre, with a golden
lion on the head of it, which he carries in his hand:
his whole countenance is mild, and he seems to go-
vern his subjects more like a father than a king.
The whole of his officers and Q^uards wear breeches
that are generally dyed red, but sometimes they are
■white or blue : all but the king go bareheaded.
The poor people have only a single piece of blue or
other cloth about them, and the slaves a breech cloth.
The inhabitants in Tombuctoo are very numerous;
I think six times as many as in Swearah, besides the
Arabs and other Moslemin or Mohammedans, in
their Millah, or separate town ; which must contain
nearly as many people as there are altogether in
Swearah."
NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.
Swearah or Mogadore contains about thirty-six
thousand souls ; that is, thirty thousand Moors and
six thousand Jews : this may be a high estimation for
Tombuctoo; making it two hundred and sixteen thou-
sand inhabitants; yet considering the commercial im-
portance of the place, and the fertility of the country
around it, there can be no doubt but it contains a vast
number of inhabitants ; and I must also observe, that
if it was a small town, and contained the riches attri-
buted to it, they would require a very strong force to
prevent the Arabs from the desart, together with the
caravans, from taking it by surprise or by storm.
" The women are clothed in a light shirt or un-
der-dress, and over it a green, red, or blue covering,
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 333
from their breasts to below their knees — the whole
girt about their waists with a red girdle; they stain
their cheeks and foreheads red or yellow on some
occasions, and the married women wear a kind of
hood on their heads, made of blue cloth, or silk, and
cotton handkerchiefs of diiferent kinds and colours,
and go barefooted. The king and people of Tom-
buctoo do not fear and worship God, Hke the Mosle-
rains, but lik-e the people of Soudan, they only pray
one time in twenty-fourhours, when they see the moon,
and when she is not seen they do not pray at all :
they cannot read or write, but are honest, and they
circumcise their children like the Arabs : they have
no mosques, but dance every night, as the Moors
and Arabs pray. The Shegar or king had collected
about one thousand slaves, some gums, elephants'
teeth, gold dust, &;c. to be ready for the yearly cara-
vans ; but as three moons had passed away since
the time they ought to have arrived, he gave them
up for lost, and concluded to send a caravan with
part of his gopds that came across the desart ; viz.
some salt, iron, cloths, &c. to a large city at a great
distance from Tombuctoo : and having formed a body
of about three thousand men, well armed with mus-
kets, long knives, and spears, and three thousand
asses, and about two hundred camels, which were all
loaded with heavy goods, such as iron, salt, tobacco,
&c., he hired my brother Seid and myself (with ten
more of our companions) to carry loads on our two
camels to Wassanah, for which he was to give us,
when we came back, two haicks each and some gold.
As we were completely in his power, we did
334 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
Hot dare to refuse to go, and he put us under the care
of his brother, whose name was Shelbaa, who had
command of the whole caravan. It was in the
month of Shual ( ) when we departed from
Tombuctoo for a place we had never before heard
of We had in the company about two hundred
Moslemin, but the master of the caravan would not
permit us, Moslemin, to keep our guns, for fear we
should him against him, if he was obliged to fight.''''
SECTION IV.
Sidi Hamet sets out for Wassanah — his arrival there, and
description of that city, the country, and its inhabitants
— of the great river which runs near it, and of his return
to Tombuctoo — containing also the author'' s geographi-
cal opinions, founded on this narrative, on the sources
of the river JYiger — its length, course, and outlet, into
the Atlantic ocean.
" All being prepared, we went from Tombuctoo,
about two hours' ride, towards the south, to the bank
of the river, which is called at that place Zolibib, and
was wider than from Mogadore to the island ; (i. e.
about five hundred yards;) here was a miserable
village, built with canes, and mudded over: it had
about two hundred small houses in it, but no walls:
we then setoffnear the side of the river, and travelled
on in a plain even country for six days, every day
within sight of the river, which was on our right hand,
and running the same way we travelled, and our
course was a little to the south of east -, when we
©BSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 335
came to a small town, called Bimbinah^ walled in with
eanes and thorn-hushes, and stopped two days near
it, to ^ei provisions and rest our beasts : here the
river turned more to the south-eastward, because
there was a very high mountain in sight to the east-
ward : we then went from the river side, and pursued
our journey more southwardly, through a hilly and
woody country, for fifteen days, when we came to the
same river again. Every night we were obliged to
make up large fires all around the caravan, to keep
oflTthe wild beasts, such as lions, tigers, and others,
which made a dreadful howling. Here was a small
town of black "people belonging to another nation,
who were enemies to the king of Tombuctoo, but
were friendly to the king of Wassanah; and not
being strong, they did not molest us, but furnished
us with what corn we wanted, and twenty oxen.
We saw a large number of armed black men, nearly
naked,on the other side of the river, who seemed to be
hostile, but they could not get across to attack us :
we also saw two very large towns, but walled in like
the others we had passed: we stopped here, and
rested our camels and asses five days, and then went
onward again in about a S. E. direction, winding, as
the river ran, for three days ; and then had to clynb
over a very high ridge of mountains, which took up
six days, and when we were on the top of them, we
could see a large chain of high mountains to the
westward : those we passed were thickly covered
with very large trees, .and it was extremely difficult
to get up and down them ; but we could not go any
other way, for the river ran against the steep side of
336 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
the mountain ; so having, gotten over them, we came
to the river's bank again, where vt was very narrow
and full of rocks, tliat dashed the water dreadfully:
then finding a o-ood path, we kept on to the S. E. wind-
ing a little every day, sometimes more to the east,
then to the south again : we kept travelling this way
for twelve days after leaving the mountains, during
which time we had seen the river nearly every day
on our right hand, and had passed a great many
small streams that empty into it : it was now very
wide, and looked deep — here we saw many trees
dug out hollow, like the boats at Tombuctoo, and
they were used to carry negroes across the river,
and were pushed along with flat pieces of wood: we
also saw the high mountains on the west side of the
great river, very plainly. Having rested seven davs
at the ferrying-place, we then travelled on for fifteen
days, most of the time in sight of the river. When we
came close to the walls of the city of Wassanah,
the king came out with a great army, consisting of
all his soldiers, to meet us, but finding we had only
come to trade by the orders of, and with the goods of,
his friend Shegar of Tombuctoo, he invited the chief,
and the whole of the caravan, to abide within a square
enclosure, near the walls of the city : here we re-
mained two moons, exchanging our goods for slaves,
gold, elephants' teeth, &c.
" The city of Wassanah is built near the bank of
the" river, which runs past it nearly south, between
high mountains on both sides,, though not very close
to the river, which is so wide there that we could
hardly see a man across it on the other side: the
©BSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 337
people of Tombuctoo call it Zolibib, and those of
Wassanah call it Zadi. The walls of the city are
yery large, and made of great stones, laid up like the
stone fences in the province of Hah Hah, in Moroc-
co, but without any clay or mud amongst them :
they are very thick and strong, and much higher
than the walls of Tombuctoo. I was permitted to
walk round them in company with six negroes, and
it took me one whole day : the walls are built square,
and have one large gate on each side. The country
all around the city is dug up, and has barley, corn,
and other vegetables planted on it ; and close by the
side of the river, all the land is covered with rice,
and there are a great many oxen, and cows, and
asses, belonging to the city, but no camels, nor
horses, mules, sheep, nor goats, but all about and in
the city, speckled fowls abound, and there are plenty
of eggs. The people of the caravan were allowed
to enter the city, but only twenty at a time, and
they were all obliged to go out again before night.
" We had been there more than a moon, when it
came to my turn to go in. I found almost the whole
of the ground inside of the walls was covered with
huts made of stones piled up without clay, and some
reeds, laid across the tops, covered over with the
large leaves of the date or palm tree, or of another
free which looks very much like a date tree, and bears
a fruit as large as my head, which has a white juice
in it sweeter than milk ; the inside is hard, and very
good to eat : the trees that bear this big fruit, grow
in abundance in this country, and their fruit is very
plenty: their huts have narrow passages betweea
X X
338 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
them : tlie king or chief is called Oleeboo, which
means, in the negro talk, good sphan : he is a very
tall, and quite a young man; his house is very large,
square, and high, made of stone, and the chinks fdled
up with something white like lime, but not so liard :
they would not let me go into his house, and told
me he had one hundred and fifty wives, or more, and
ten thousand slaves : he dresses in a white shirt, that
looks like the one worn by Mr. Willshire, and long
trowsers made like them you have on, and coloured
like an orange." Those I then had on, were com-
mon wide sailor trowsers. " He has over his shirt
a caftan or robe with sleeves to it, made of red
cloth, tied about with a girdle that goes from his
breast to his hips, made of silk handkerchiefs of ail
colours, and has slips of fine coloured silk tied round
his arms and legs : his hair is also tied in small
bunches, and he wears on his head a very high hat
made of canes, coloured very handsomely, and
adorned with fine feathers: he has sandals on his
feet, bound up with gold chains, and a great gold
cliain over his shoulder, with a bunch of ornaments
made of briglit stones and shells, that dazzle the
eyes, barging on his breast, and wears a large dag-
ger by his side in a gold case. He rides on the
back of a huge beast, called Ilfemcnt, three times as
thick as my great camel, and a great deal higher,
with a very King nose and great teeth, and almost as
black as the negroes : ho is so strong, that he c an
kill an hundred men in a minute when he is mad —
this is the ani«nal that the teeth grow in which we
bring from Tombuctoo to Widnoon, which you call
OBSERVATIONS OS AFRICA. 339
elephants' teeth, and this was the only one of the
animals \ ever saw, but they told me these creatures
were very plenty down the river from Wassanah."
This answers to the description of, and no doubt is,
the elephant.
" The kino' of Wassanah has a puard of two
hundred negroes on foot, one hundred of them
armed with muskets, fifty with long spears, and fifty
with great bows and arrows, with long knives by
their sides: they always attend him when he goes
out on his beast; he has also a very large array:
they fight with guns, spears, and bows and arrows.
The city has twice as many inhabitants in it as
Tombuctoo, and we saw a great many towns near
it on the other side of the river, as well as several
small settlements on the same side below. The
king nor the people do not pray like the Moslemins,
but they jump about, fall down, tear their faces as
if they were mad when any of their friends die, and
every time they see the new moon, they make a
great feast, and dance all night to music made by
singing and beating on skins tied across a hollow
stick, and shaking little stones in a bag or shell; but
they do not read nor write, and are heathens.
' Though the free people in this place, do not steal,
and are very hospitable, yet I hope the time is near
when the faithful, and they that fear God and his
prophet, will turn them to the true belief, or drive
them away from this goodly land.
" The principal inhabitants of Wassanah are dress-
ed in shirts of white or blue cloth, with short trow-
sers, and some with a long; robe over the whole, tied
340 CAPTAIN KILEy's NARRATIVE.
about with a girdle of different colours : the tree
females are generally very fat, and dress in blue or
white coverings tied about their vv^aists with girdles
of all colours : they wear a great many ornaments
of gold, and beads, and shells, hanging to their ears
and noses, necks, arms, ankles, and all over their
hair ; but the poorer sort are only covered about their
loins by a cloth which grows on the tree that bears
the big fruit I have told you about before." This fruit,
I imagine, must be the cocoa-nut, and I have often
in the West Indies, and elsewhere, observed the
outer bark of this singular palm-tree : it is woven
by nature like cloth, each thread being placed ex-
actly over and under the others. It appears like
regular wove coarse bagging, and is quite strong :
it loosens and drops from the trunk of the tree of its
own accord, as the tree increases in size and age.
I had long before considered that this most singular
bark must have suo-orested to man the first idea of
cloth, and taught him how to spin, and place the
threads so as to form it of other materials that have
since been used for that purpose, and this first hint
from nature has been improved into our present me-
thods of spinning and weaving.
" The male slaves go entirely naked, but the
women are allowed a piece of this cJoth to cover
their nakedness with : they are very numerous, and
many of them kept chained : they are obliged to
work the earth round about the city. The inhabi-
tants catch a great many fish : they have boats made
of great trees, cut off and hollowed out, that will
hold ten, fifteen, or twenty negroes, and the brother
OBSERVATIONS »N AFRICA. 341
of the king told one of my Moslemin companions
who could understand him, (for I could not,) that
he was going to set out in a few days with sixty
boats, and to carry five hundred slaves down the
river, first to the southward, and then to the west-
ward, where they should come to the great water,
and sell them to pale people who came there in
great boats, and brought muskets, and powder, and
tobacco, and blue cloth, and knives, &ic. — he said it
was a great way, and would take him three moons
to get there, and he should be gone twenty moons
before he could get back by land, but should be very
rich." I then asked him how many boats he sup-
posed there were in the river at Wassanah? he
said: — "A great many, three or four hundred, I
should think; but some of them are very small: we
saw a great many of these people who had been
down the river to see the great water, with slaves
and teeth, and came back again : they said, the pale
people lived in great boats, and had guns as big as
their bodies, that made a noise hke thunder, and
would kill all the people in a hundred negro boats,
if they went too near tfeem : we saw in the river
and on the bank a great number of fish, with legs
and large mouths, and these would run into the
water in a minute, if any man went near them, but
they told us they would catch children, and some-
times men, when in the boats : (these are, no doubt,
crocodiles or hippopotamus',) the negroes are very
kind, and would always give us barley, corn, or rice,
milk or meat, if we were hungry, though we could
not speak a language they understood. While wc
342
stopped at Wassanah, it rained almost every day.
Having traded away all the goods we carried there,
Shelbar took three hundred slaves and a great many
teeth, dazzling stones, and shells, and gold ; with
the^e we set off again, and went the same way
back to Tombuctoo, which took us three moons, and
we were gone from the time we left it, to the time
we returned, eight moons. On my arrival at Tom-
buctoo, we were paid by the chief of the caravan
according to promise, and a few days afterwards a
caravan arrived there from Tunis, which we joined
to return by that way to our own country."
I must here beo- the reader's indulo-ence for a
moment, in order to make some remarks, and a few
geographical observations that this part of the narra-
tive has suggested. This narrative I, for my own
part, consider strictly true and correct, as far as
the memory and judgment of Sidi Hamet were con-
cerned, whose veracity and intelligence I had before
tested : he had not the least inducement held out to
him for giving this account, further than my own
and Mr. Willshire's curiosity; and his description of
Tombuctoo agrees in subitance with that given by
several Moors, (Fez merchants) who came to Mr.
Willshire's house to buy goods while Sidi Hamet
was there, and who said they had known him in
Tombuctoo several years ago. From these consi-
derations combined, and after examining the best
maps extant, I conclude that I have strong grounds
on which to found the following geographical opi-
nions, viz. •
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 313
•1st, That the great Desart is much higher land
on its southern side (as I had proved it to be on the
north by. my own observations) than the sur-
rounding country, and consequently that its whole
surface is much higher than the land near it
that is susceptible of cultivation. 2dly, That
the river which Sidi Hamet and his compan-
ions came to within fourteen days ride, and west of
Tombuctoo, called by the Arabs el Wod Tenij, and
by the negroes, Gozen-Zair, takes its rise in the
mountains south of, and bordering on, the great
Desart, being probably the northern branch of that
extensive ridge in which the Senegal, Gambia, and
Niger rivers, have their sources; and that this river
is a branch of the Niger, which runs eastwardly for
several hundred miles to Tombuctoo', near which
city, many branches, uniting in one great stream, it
takes the name of Zolibib^ and continues to run
nearly east, about two hundred and fifty miles from
Tombuctoo ; when meeting with .high land, it is
turned more south-eastwardly, and running in that
direction in a winding course, about five hundred
miles, it has met with some obstructions, through
which it has forced its way, and formed a consider-
able fall : for Sidi Hamet, having spent six days in
passing the mountains, came again near the river,
which was then filled with broken rocks, and the
water Avas foaming and roaring among them, as he
observed, " most dreadfully." This must be a fall
or rapid. 3dly, That from these falls, it runs first
to the south-eastward, and then more to the south,
till it reaches Wassanah, about six hundred miles.
344 CAPTALN RILEV'S NARRATIVE.
where it is by some called Zolibib^ and by others
Zadi. 4thly, That as thennhabitants of Wassanah
say they go first to the southward, and then to the
westward, in boats to the great water; this I con-
ceive must be the Atlantic Ocean, where they have
seen pale men and great boats, &c. These I should
naturally conclude were Europeans, with vessels;
and that it takes three moons to get there, (about
eighty-five days) at the rate of thirty miles a day,,
which is the least we can give them with so strong a
current ; it makes a distance from thence to the sea
of about two thousand five hundred miles : in com-
puting this distance, one-third or more should be
allowed for its windings, so that the whole length of
the river is above four thousand miles, and is pro-
bably the longest and largest on the African conti--
nent. 5thly, That the waters of this river in their
passage towards the east, have beea obstructed in
their course by high mountains in the central re-
gions of this unexplored continent, and turned south-
wardly : that they are borne along to the south-
ward, between the ridges of mountains that are
known to extend all along the western coast, from
Senegal to the gulf of Guinea, and to round with
that gulf to the south of the equator: that they are
continually narrowed in and straitened by that im-
mense ridge in which the great river Nile is known
to have its sources ; and which mountains lie in the
equatorial region: that this central river receives,
in its lengthened course, all the streams that water
and fertilize the whole country, between the tw«
before-mentioned ridg-es of mountains : the waters
eBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. ' 345
thus accumulated and pent up, at length broke over
their western and most feeble barrier, tore it down
to its base, and thence found and forced their way to
the Atlantic Ocean, forming what is now known as
the river Congo. In corroboration of this opinion,
some men of my acquaintance, who have visited the
Congo, and traded all along the coast between it
and the Senegal, affirm, that the Congo discharges
more water into the Atlantic, taking the whole year
together, than all the streams to the northward of it,
between its mouth and Cape de Verd.
SECTION V.
Sidi Hamet's journey from Tombuctoo to JVIoroceo-f by
the eastern route — his description of the Desart, and
'of the country oh both sides of it. Of a dreadful
battle with the wandering Arabs. Sidi Hamet takes
his leave., and sets out to join his family.
" The caravan vre joined at Tombuctoo, was
a very large one, belonging to Algiers, Tunis,
Tripoli, and Fez, four united together. They re-
mained near that city two moons, and bought two
thousand slaves, besides a great deal of gold dust,
and teeth, and turbans, and gold rings, and chains,
and gum; but Seid and I had only our two camels,
and they were but partly loaded with gum, for ac-
count of Ben JVassar^ the Sheick of the Tunissian
part of the caravan, for there were three Sheicks
in it. When every thing was ready, we set off
from Tombuctoo, and travelled east-northerly, twen-
^7
346 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
ty days through the hilly country, crossing a great
many little streams of water that ran to the south
and west towards the great river, it having rained
very hard almost every liight whilst' we were at
Tombuctoo.
When we were going amongst the hills and trees,
we saw a great many small towns, or cities, most of
them fenced in with good stone walls, but some with
cane and thorn bushes. The land of that country
ts very good, and plenty of corn grows on it, and
some rice and dates, and we saw some, oxen, sheep^
and asses, and a few horses. The inhabitants are
Moors and Arabs mixed with the negroes, and almost
as black as the latter; all of our own religion: they
are very stout fierce men, but they did not attempt
to molest us, and sold us every thing we wanted at
a cheap rate : they wear no clothing but a strip of
cloth about their middles, and a ring of bone or ivory
round the women's ankles and wrists, and some beads
in their hair; they are peaceable people, and never
attack the caravans unless the latter attempt to rob
them : they are armed with muskets and with long
knives, and with bows and arrows. When they are
forced to fight, they do it with the greatest fury, and
never take prisoners or receive quarter, and only de-
fend their rights. Some of the people in our caravaa
told us, that a iew years ago a caravan, going from
Tombuctoo to Tunis, Algiers, &c. in passing through
this country, surprised and stole about four hun-
dred of the inhabitants for slaves, and a great number
of cattle and much corn, and went towards the desart;
but these people assembled a large host, and came
OBSERVATlOiNS ON AFRICA. 347
up with them in the night near the edge of the desart,
and cut the whole of them to pieces, though thej were
more than two thousand men strong, and well armed ;
only about fifty of the people of the caravan escaped
and got back to Tunis to tell the news, and they
only by riding on the swiftest camels without any
loads. After having refreshed our camels for ten
days in a beautiful valley, where there was a good
stream of water for them to drink, and filled the sacks
with coals, we mounted up to the desart, and steered
on the flat level away to the north. As we went
along we came to some small valleys, where the
Arabs feed their camels and live on their milk, and
think themselves the most learned, virtuous, and
religious people in the world, and the most happy
too, though they have neither bread, nor meat, nor
honey, nor any clothing but a rag tied round their
waist, and live in tents, wandering about. We
steered about north for eisfhteen davs, when w^e came
to the usual/ watering-place, called Weydlah; here
was a great deal of water in a pond, but it was black
and quite salt, like the water in the wells close by
the great sea ; — it was very dead and stinking and
""tasted of sulphur; — it is in a very deep pit and difficult
to get at, there being only one place by which we
could lead the camels down to the water: it is said
to be very deep in the middle, and was never known
to be dry : it was almost covered over by a thick
green scum; — we could see the tracks of wild beasts,
such as tigers and lions, near the water. We had
seen a great many of these animals in our travels to
Wassanah, and when we were coming from Tom-
348 CAPTAIN riley"'s narrative.
buctoo to the eastward. Our caravan consisted of
about fifteen hundred men, most of us well armed
with double-barrelled guns and scimitars, and we had
about four thousand camels. It was a long journey
to the next well ; so we stopped here six days peaceably,
having encamped in a valley a little distance west of
the pond or lake. We had always made the camels
lie down in a circle, placing the goods in the centre,
and the men between the camels and the goods: w^e
had two hundred men on guard, and always ready
for any emergency. In the night of the sixth day,
about two hours after midnight, we Avere attacked by
a very large body of wandering Arabs : they had
got to within a few yards of us before they were dis-
covered, and poured in a most destructive tire of
musketry, at the same time running in like hungry
tigers, with spears and scimitars in their hands, with
dreadful yellings: — they threw the whole caravan into
confusion for a moment : but we were in a tiffht
circle, formed by the camels, which with the guards
kept them off for a short time, till the whole of our
men seized their arms and rallied. The battle now
raged most furiously: it was cloudy and very dark;
the blaze of the powder making only a faint light,
"whilst the cracking of musketry, the clashing of
!s\vords, the shouts of the combatants, and the bel-
lowings of the wounded and frightened camels,
together with the groans q{ the wounded and dying
men, made the most dreadful and horrid uproar that
can be conceived : the fight continued for about two
hours, hand to hand and breast to breast, when the
assailants gave way and ran otf, leaving their dead
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 349
and wounded on the field of battle. We remained
with our arms in our hands all night. I was wounded
with a ball in my thigh, and Seid with a dagger on
his breast." Thev then showed me their scars. " In
the morning we numbered our men, and found that
two hundred and thirty were killed, and about one
hundred wounded : three hundred of the camels were
either slain or so badly wounded, that they could not
walk, and so we killed them. We found seven hun-
dred of q^nr enemies lying on the ground, either dead
or wounded ; — those that were badly wounded, we
killed, to put them out of pain, and carried the others
that could walk along with us for slaves; of these
there were about one hundred. As the enemy fled,
they took all their good camels with them, for they
had left them at a distance, so that we only found
about fifty poor ones, which we killed; but we picked
up two hundred and twenty good double-barrelled
guns from the ground. The gun which Seid now
uses is one of them ; — w' e got also about four hundred
scimitars or long knives. We were told by the prison-
ers that the company who attacked us was upwards
of four thousand strong, and that they had been pre-
paring for it three moons. We were afraid of another
attack, and went off the same day, and travelled all
the night, steering to the N. %, (out of the course
the caravans commonly take) twenty-three d ys'
journey, when we came to a place called the Eight
Wells, where we found plenty of good water. Fifty
of our men had died, and twenty-one of the slaves.
We remauied near these good wells for eleven days;
©ur camels feeding on the bushes in the valleys near
350 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
them, when we again travelled to the north-westward
ten days to Twati, a good watering place. For the
last three days we waded through deep sands, like
those we passed among while going from Widnoon. —
We rested here two days, and then went down
north, into the country of dates, and came to the
town of Gujelah-) a little strong place belonging to
Tunis — there we found plenty of fruit and good water,
and meat and milk; we stopped there ten days, and
then the part of the caravan going to Tripoli left us
and went towards the east, by the mountains, and
the rest went on to the north-easterly twelve days to
Tuggurtah^ close by a mountain near the river Tegsah,
that is said to go to the sea near Tunis ; — here we
stopped twenty-five days, and the caravan for Tunis
left us. Tuggurtah is a very large city, with high
and thick walls, made tight, and has a great many
people in it, all of the true religion, and a vast num-
ber of black slaves, and a few white ones. After
stopping here twenty-five days, we set off to the
north-westward through a very fine country, full of
date and fig-trees, and cattle, and goats, camels,
sheep, and asses; — we then travelled ten days to the
high mountains, where the caravan for Algiers parted
from us, and we remained with about two hundred cam-
els and eighty men going to fez. We then travelled
over the great mountain, which we were told belongs
to the same ridge we see close to Morocco and in
Suze ; (the Atlas ;) and in two moons more we passed
through Fez, where what remained of the caravan
stopped, and we returned to our father's house and our
families, on the side of the Atlas mountains, near the
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 351
city of Morocco, haiving been gone more than two
years. We brought back only one camel, and a
small load of merchandise, out of the eight camels
richly loaded when we set out; yet we thanked God
for having preserved our lives; for the whole caravan
with which we started had perished on the desart,
and out of the twenty-eight men who left it with us,
only four reached their homes, and they on foot, and
entirely destitute of property. I found my wife and
all my children and my father's family in good health.
Sheick Ali came to see me as soon as he got the news
of my arrival, and after staying with me one moon,
he invited me and Seid to go with him to his place,
which invitation we accepted, and he furnished us
with one camel and some haicks and blue cloth, and
advised us to go up on to the desart and trade them
away for ostrich-feathers, to sell in Morocco or
Swearah: so being poor, we accepted his offer; bought
his goods and his came^and he was to have been
paid when we came back. We set off for the desart,
and had passed a great many tribes of Arabs without
finding any feathers of consequence, when the great
God directed our steps to your master's tent, and I
saw you. I was once as bad a man as Seid, but I
had been in distress and in a strange land, and had
found friends to keep me and restore me to my family,
and when I saw you naked and a slave, with your
skin and flesh burnt from your bones by the sun, and
heard you say you had a wife and children, I thought
of my own former distresses, and God softened my
heart, and I became your friend. I did all I could to
lighten the burden of your afflictions: I have endured
352 CAPTAIN RILEY S NARRATIVE.
hunger, thirst, and fatigues, and have fought for your
sake, and have now the high pleasure of knowing I
have done some good in the world; and may the
great and universal Father still protect you : you
have been true and kind to me, and your friend has
fed me with milk and honey; and I will always in
future do what is in my power to redeem Christians
from slavery."
Here Sidi Hamet finished his narration ; he
then said he wished to go and see his wife and
children, and that as soon as he had rested for a
few days, he would set off again with a large company
to seek after the rest of my men. The next morning
I made him a small present, and Mr. Willshire also
gave him some fine powder and many other small
articles. After he was prepared to go, he swore by
his right hand, he would bring up the remainder of
my crew if they were to be found alive, and God
spared his life : he then tqpk his leave of me by
shaking hands, and of all my companions, wishing us
a happy sight of our friends, and set off for his home.
I did not part with him without feelings of regret,
and shedding tears ; for he had been a kind master
to me, and to him I owed, under God, my life and
deliverance from slavery ; nor could I avoid reflecting
on the wonderful means employed by Providence to
bring about my redemption, and that of a part of my
late unfortunate crew.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 353
CHAP. XXVI.
^4n account of the face of the great African Desart^ or
Zahahrah — of its inhabitants^ their customs^ manners^
dress^ &;c. — A description of the Ara:bi(m camel or
dromedary.
In giving an account of the great western desart,
or Zahahrah, and of its inhabitants, &c. it must be
remembered, that in journeying across, or on the
desart when a slave, I did not go over but a very
small part, comparatively speaking, of that extensive
region ; I cannot therefore undertake to describe
what did not come under my own observa-
tion. I can, however, state, without fear of future
contradiction, the following facts, viz. that the face
of this desart, from about the latitude of 22 degrees
north, where we were forced ashore In our boat, to
near the latitude of 28 degrees north, and from the
longitude of Cape Barbas, about 19 to 1 1 degrees
west, is a smooth surface, consisting partly of solid
rocks, of gravel, sand, and stones mixed, and in some
places of what is commonly called soil : this mass is
baked down together in most places, by the extreme
heat of the sun, nearly as hard as marble, so that no
tracks of man or beast are discoverable ; for the
footstep leaves no impression. The whole surface
is as smooth, when viewed on every side, as the plain
of the ocean unruffled by winds or tempests, stretch-
ing out as far as the eye can reach ; not a break that
might serve as a landmark, or guide to the travellef :
z 7.
354 CAPTAIN KILEV'S NARRATIVE.
not a tree, shrub, or any other object, to Inte rrupt
the view within the horizon ; the whole is in ap-
pearance a dreary waste ; the soil is in colour of a
light reddish brown — not a stream of water (at
least for many centuries past) has refreshed this
region, which is doomed to eternal barrenness; but
as we went foward on this flat hard surface, we met
from distance to distance with small valleys or dells,
scooped out by the hand of nature, from five to thirty
feet below the plain — those we saw and stopped in,
were ten, fifteen, and twenty miles apart, and contain-
ed from one to four or five acres each — they seem to
serve as receptacles for the little rain water which
falls on the desart ; for the inhabitants always expect
some in the winter months, though they are frequent-
ly disappointed ; and none had fallen on those parts
on which we were thrown for the last two years.
It was aheady September, and they were offering
up prayers to the Almighty every day, and most
fervently imploring him to send them refreshing
rains. These little valleys are mostly scooped out
in the form of a bowl, though in some the sides arc
steep, and bottoms nearly level, and the whole
irregular. Here grows a dwarf thorn-bush, from two
to five feet in height; it is generally scattered thinly
over the valley. The leaves of this shrub, which is
almost the only one that is to be found on that part
of the desart, are a fourth of an inch in thickness,
one and a half inches in width, and from two to tw«
and a half inches in length, lapering to a sharp point,
and are strongly impregnated with salt, so much so,
that neither myself nor my companions could eat
them, though nearly perishuig with hunger and
0BSERVAT1ONS ON AFRICA. 3.05
thirst, and a green fresh leaf would haye been a great
relief to us, when neith.er meat nor drink was to be
procured. Such is the face of the desart over which
we passed, until we came within a short distance of
Cape Bajador, where we fell in with immense heaps
of loose sand, forming mountains of from one to three
or four hundred feet in height, blown and whirled
about hy every wind, and dreadful to the traveller,
should a strong gale arise whilst in the midst of them;
for he and his beasts must then inevitably perish,
overwhelmed by flying surges of suffocating sand.
The face of this part of the desart is still the same
as that before described, when laid bare and seen
between the sand hills, by reason of the sand being
blown off. This sand has evidently been driven from
the sea-shore, and in the same degree as the ocean
hag retired; by means of the trade-wind blowing
constantly on to the desart, and that too very strongly
in the night-time, through a long succession of ages.
The heavy surf dashing perpetually among the rocks
gradually reduces them to grit, which then mixes
with the sand that is washed up upon the shore,
where it is left by the tides that rise on this coast to
the height of twelve or fourteen feet; — this becomes
dried by the excessive heat of the sun, and is whirled
about and driven before this constant gale, upon
the surface, and then into the interior of the desart.
Such have unquestionably been the causes which
have produced such astonishing accumulations of
sand on that part of the desart; and I am further
confirmed in this belief by the enormous strings of
sand hills to be found all along the coast of Suse
#
356 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
and Morocco, near the sea-shore. These accumula-
tions are, in many parts, so great, as to have raised
new bounds to the ocean some miles beyond its ori-
ginal limits, which have evidently been washed by the
sea at a former period, and the intermediate spaces are
filled up with loose sand hiils; which circumstances all
together amount, in my opinion, to a demonstration
of the origin of the sand on this part of the desart.
Some authors have supposed that there were some
fertile spots on the great western desart which were
cultivated, &c. &c. but this is, I think, an impossibility:
the whole desart being a level plain, it can produce
neither spring or stream of water, and no herbage
can consequently grow unless by means of rain, and
this falls on the desart so seldom, and is so soon
evaporated, as to render even a passage across it with
a caravan of Arabs and camels, at all times dangerous
in the extreme, as is proved by Sidi Hamet's narrative
of his journeys, connected with my own observations.
That there are more shrubs growing in some parts
than in others, is true, from natural causes. The
small valleys or dells which now furnish a scanty sub-
sistence for the hardy came!, and that only by feeding
on the coarsest shrubs and leaves, serve as basons to
catch tlie little water that sometimes falls there : this
is immediately dried away by the intense heat of the
sun, which beats down upon the surface in all parts
most violently, and scorches like actual fire; — yet
that moisture, little as it is, causes the growth of the
dwarf thorn-bush and of two or three other prickly
plants, resembling weeds ; these grow only among
sand, and there are spots on the desart which produce
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 357
a shrub that groAvs up in a bunch at the bottom as thick
as a man's leg, and then branches off in every direc-
tion to the height of two feet, with a diameter of four
or five feet. Each branch is two or three inches in
circumference, and they arc fluted hke pillars or
columns in architecture, and almost square at their
tops : these are armed with small sharp prickles all
over, two or three inches long, and yield, when broken
off, a whitish liquid that is very nauseous, and bites
the tongue like aqua-fortis, so that the camels will
nip it off only when they can find nothing else : they
are so numerous in some places, that it is difficult for
the camels to get along amongst them, and they are
obliged to dodge about between these bunches.
In many valleys, the thorn-bushes furnish a few
snails. A few ground nuts are also to be found,
resembling in shape and size small onions ; and there
are also to be seen under the shade of the thorn-
bushes, an herb known by the name of shepherds'
sprouts in America ; but like the other things before
mentioned, they are very rarely to be met with.
These are, as far as came within my knowledge, the
whole of the productions of the desart.
It has been imagined by many, that the desart
abounded in noxious animals, serpents, and other
reptiles; but we saw none, nor is it possible for any
animal that requires water, to exist on the desart,
unless it is under the care of, and assisted by man in
procuring that necessary article. I saw no animal
that was wild, except the ostrich, nor can I conceive
how that animal exists without fresh water, which it
it certain he cannot procure, nor what kind of nourish-
358 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
ment he subsists on. There are neither beasts, nor
birds, nor reptiles, to be seen on that dreary waste on
Avhich we travelled, and it is certain that there are
other districts still worse, bearing not the smallest herb
nor bush wherewith the camel can fill his stomach: but
near the borders of the desart, where more shrubs are
produced, sheep and goats are fed in considerable
numbers, and we saw many of those light-footed and
beautiful animals, called the Gazelle^ tripping across
the sand hills, and near watering-places : some tigers
also now and then made their appearance. Such is
the great western desart, or Zahahrah, which can
only afford a description as dry and as barren as its
dreary surface. For its extent, see the map.
Nearly all parts of this vast desart are inhabited
by different tribes of Arabs, who live entirely on the
milkof their camels, and wander from valley to valley,
travelling nearly every day for the sake of finding
food for their camels, and consequently food for
themselves: they live in tents formed of cloth made
of camels' hair, which they pull off by hand, and spin
with a hand spindle; this they twist round with the
fore-finger and thumb of the right hand j after they
have pulled out the thread sufficiently long from a
bunch of camels hair, which they hold In their left
hand, whilst the spindle descends to the ground, when
they take it up in their hand again, and wind ofi' the
yarn in a ball, and then spin another length in like
manner : they afterwards double and twist it by
hand, making a thread as thick as a goose-quill. When
they have spun a sufficient quantity, and have agreed
to stop for two or three days in one place, (which
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. .'j59
ihey always do when thejcan find sufficient food for
their camels) they drive into the ground two rows of
pei^s, in parallel lines, sufficiently wide for a tent
cloth, that is, about two and a half feet apart: they
then warp the yarn round the pegs, and commence
weaving it by running a kind of wooden sword
through the yarn under one thread, and over another,
in the manner of darning : this sword they carry with
them, and it appears to have been used for ages :
they then tuck through the filling by hand, after
turning up the sword edgeways; haul it tight, and
beat it up with the sword, as represented in plate
No. 6. They weave it the whole length which they
intend the tent to be, and then roll up the pieces or
length, until they have made enough to finish a tent.
This, in my opinion, must have been the very first
method of weaving practised in the world, and the
idea, I imagine, was taken from a view of the outer
bark of the cocoa-nut tree, as I have before observed.
The tent is then sewed toijether with the same kind
of twine, through holes made with an iron bodkin.
After it is sewed together to a proper width, from
six to ten breadths, they make four loops on its ends,
by fastening short crooked sticks to the cloth, and
two on each side. V/hen they are about to pitch the
tent, they spread it out, stretching the cords by which
it is fastened, and driving a stout peg into the ground
for each cord: this is done with a hard smooth stone,
which they always carry with them, in place of a
hammer ; then getting under the tent and raising it,
they place a block, whose top is rounded like a
w«Gden bowl, under its ceotre, and set the tent pole
360
into a hole made for that purpose, and set the pole
upright, which keeps the . tent steady in its place.
After the tent is raised, all the ropes that hold and
steady it, (ten in number) are tautened : these ropes
are made of skins partly dressed, or of camels' hair,
so that the tent is suspended in form of an oblong
umbrella, and about two feet from the ground. In
the day-time they raise up the south part of their
tents (as those on the desart are always pitched
facing the south) with two small stanchions fixed
under the cords that hold it in front, so that
they can go under the tent by stooping; this
tent serves all the family for a shelter. Each family
has a mat, which serves as a bed for the whole : they
he down on it promiscuously, only wrapped up in
their haick or blanket, if they have one; if not, in the
skin that covers their loins only, and lie close together,
to keep off the cold winds ,which blow under the
tents in the night; the children lie between the grown
persons; their heads are as low, and frequently lower
than their feet, and their long bushey hair, which is
never combed, and resembles a woollen thrumb mop,
serves them instead of a pillow. The families consist
of the father, and one or more wives, and the children
that are unmarried, (generally about four to a family,
but sometimes six or eight) and their slaves, who
are blacks.
The rich Arabs have one, two, or three slaves,
male and female ; these are allowed to sleep on the
same mnt with their masters and mistresses, and are
treated in all respects like the children of the family
in regard to apparel, &c. — tliey are not, however.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 361
permitted to marry or cohabit with the Arab women,
under pain of death, and are obliged to take care of
the camels and follow them, and to do other
drudgery, such as getting fuel, &c. but they will not
obey the women, and raise their voices higher than
their master or any of his children in a dispute, and
consequently are considered smart fellows. They
marry among their own colour while they are slaves,
with the consent of their masters, but the chi !dren
remain slaves. After a slave has served his master
faithfully for a long time, or has don^ him some es-
sential service, he is made free : he then enters into
all the privileges that the free Arabs enjoy, and can
marry into any of their families, which he or she
never fails to do, and thus become identified with the
families of the tribe in which they were slaves, and
may rise to the very head of it. The negroes are
generally active and brave, are seldom punished
with stripes, and those who drive the camels do not
scruple to milk them when they are thirsty, but taLe
care not to be discovered : they are extremely cun-
ning, and will steal any thing they can get at to eat
or drink, from their masters, or indeed any one else.
If they are caught in the act of steahng, they are
only threatened, and promised a flo2;ging the next
time. The father of the family is its absolute chief
in all respects, though he seldom inflicts punishmer.t:
his wives and daughters are considered as meie
slaves, subject to his will or caprice ; yet thev take
every opportunity to deceive or steal from hi'n: he
deals out the milk to each with his own hand, nor
<iare any ene touch it until it is thus divided: he
3 a
362 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
always assists in milking the camels, then puts the
milk into a large wooden bowl, which has probably
been in the family for ages: some of the largest
bowls will contain five gallons: they are frequently
split in every direction, and the split parts are fasten-
ed together with small iron plates, with a rivet at
each end, made of the same metal. All the milk is
thrown into the great bowl; then. If in the old man's
opinion, there is a sufficient quantity for a good drink
round, he takes a small bowl, (of which sort they
generally have two or three.) and after washing or
rubbing it out with sand, he begins to distribute the
milk, by giving to each grown person an equal
share, and to the children in proportion to their size,
measuring it very exactly, and taking a proportion-
ate quantity to himself. If therfe is any left, (which
was very seldom the case with those I lived among)
he has it put into a skin, to serve for a drink at noon
the next day : if there is not a sufficient quantity of
milk for a good drink all round, the old man fills it
up with water (if they have any) to a certain mark
in the bowl, and then proceeds to divide it as before
related.
The camels are driven out early in the morning,
and home about dark, when they are made to lie
down before the tent of their owner, very near, with
their tails towards it : a doubled rope with a large
knot in one end is then put round the knee joint
when the leg is doubled in, and the knot being then
thrust through the double part at the other end, ef-
fectually fastens the knee bent as it is, so that the
camel cannot get up to walk off, having but the use
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 363
of three of his legs. This kind of becket is also
fixed on the knees of the old camels that lead the
drove ; and the others remain quiet when their lead-
ers are fast ; in this manner they are suffered to lie
until about midnight, when they have had time to
cool and the milk to collect in their bags — the becket
is then taken off, and as soon as they get up, the net
which covers the bag to prevent the young ones
from consuming the milk, is loosened : this is fasten-
ed on by two cords, that go over the back of the
camel, and are knotted together. As each camel is
milked, the net is carefully replaced, and she is made
to lie down in the same place again : here they lie
until dayliglit, when all the camels are made to get
up; a little milk is then drawn from each, and the
young ones are suffered to suck out the remainder,
when the net is put in its place again, not to be re-
moved until the following midnight. While the
head of the family is busied milking the camels and
suckling the young ones, assisted by all the males,
the wife and females are striking and folding up the
tent, selecting the camels to carry the stuff, and
bringing them near, where they make them lie down
and pack on them the tent and all their other mate-
rials. This being done, they fasten a leather or skin
basket, about four [eet wide, fitted with a kind of
tree, like a saddle on the back of one of the tamest
camels, in which the women place the old men and
women that cannot walk, and young children, and
frequently themselves, and proceed forward accord-
ing; to their daily custom. The women take care of
tlie stuff and the camels that carry it, and of the
364 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
children : the other camels are driven off by slaves,
it" they have any, if not, by some of the boys, and
ke|!t where there are some shrubs to be found, until
night. The old man, or head of the family, gene-
rally precedes the women and stuff, after having de-
scribed to them the course they are to steer. He
sets Oif on his camel, with his gun in his hand, at a
fuil trot, and goes on until he finds a fit place in
which to pitch the tent, when he gives the informa-
tion to his wife, who then proceeds with all possible
despatch to the spot, unloads her camels, and lets
them go; then she spreads her tent, puts all the
stuff under it, clears away the small stones, and
spreads her mat, arranges her bowls, hangs up the
skins containing water, (if they have any,) on a kind
of horse or frame that folds together, &c. &c. They
start long before sun-rising in the morning, and cal-
culate to pitch their tents at about four o'clock in
the afternoon, if they can find a convenient spot ;
otherwise a little sooner or later. When one family
sets off, the whole of that part of the tribe dwell-
ing near, travel on with them; and I have frequently
seen from five hundred to one thousand camels in
one drove, all going the same way, and I was great-
ly surprised to see with what facility they could dis-
tinguish and separate them ; each knowing his own
camels, even to the smallest : they would sometimes
march together for half a day ; then in a few minutes
they would separate, and each take his own course,
and would generally pitch within a few miles of each
other. As soon as the place is agreed on, the men
go out on their camels, with tlieir guns, different
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 365
wayS) to reconnoitre and see if they have enemies
near.
When they rise in the morning, after having first
milked their camels, and suckled the young ones,
they next attend to prayers, which is done in the
following manner: they first find a sandy spot, then
unwrap themselves, and take up sand in both their
hands ; with this they rub their faces, necks, arms,
legs, and every part of their bodies, except their
backs, which they cannot reach : this done, as if
they washed with water, they stand erect, facing
towards the east; wrap themselves up as neatly as
they can in their blankets or skins; they look up
towards heaven, and then bow their heads, bending
their bodies half way to the ground, twice, crying
aloud at each time, Jillah Hooakibar. They next
kneel down, and supporting themselves with their
hands, they worship, bowing thcjr faces in the dust,
twice successively ; then, being still on their knees,
they bend themselves forward, nearly to the ground,
repeating. Hi el JlUuh-Sheda Mohammed — Rasool
Allah ; then rising, they again repeat, Allah Hooaki-
bar^ two or three times ; and this is the common
mode of worshipping four times a day. In addition
to this, at sun-setting, they implore the Almighty to
send rain to moisten the parched earth ; to cause the
food to grow for their camels; to keep them under
his special care, with their families and tribes: to
enrich them with the spoils of their enemies, and to
confound and destroy them that seek their hurt :
they thank the Almighty for his past mercies, for
foBd, raiment, and his protection, &c. <fec. — they then
366 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
repeat part of a chapter from the Koran, in which
God's pretended promises to the faithful are made
known bj their prophet; and repeating at all times
the Hi el Allah^ or, " great is the Almighty God,
and Mohammed is his holy prophet." Their times
of prayer are, before sun-rising in the morning,
about noon, the middle of the afternoon, about sun-
settino- and ascain two or three hours after the sun
has set : this makes five times a day, wasliing them-
selves (at least their faces and hands, when they
have water) before praying; when they cannot get
water, (which is always the case with those on the
desart,) they perform their ablutions by substituting
sand. Mohammed, their prophet, when he arrived
with an army on the desarts of Arabia, found that
there was no water either for himself or his follow-
ers to wash in ; yet by the laws he had already pro-
mulgated, ablutions could not be dispensed with:
a new chapter, however, of revelation, soon relieved
him from this dileinma, and he directed his follow-
ers to use sand, when no water was to be had. In
the ninth chapter of the Book of Numbers, it appears
that Moses, in a similar dilemma, found it necessary
to apply for a new command from the Lord on a
particular subject.
The Arabs always wash when it is in their power,
before they eat, nor does any business divert them
from the strict observance of their religious ceremo-
nies: and with respect to particular stated times,
while pursuing their journeys, and going on in the
greatest haste, when the time for prayers arrives,
all stop, make the camels lie down, and perform
*r.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 3(J7
what they jconceive to be their indispensable duty;
praying-, in addition to the usual forms, to be directed
in the rij^ht course, and that God will lead them to
wells of water, and to hospitable brethren, who will
feed them, and not suiFer them to perish far from
the face of man : that he will enrich them with
spoils, and deliver them from ail Avho lie in wait to
do them mischief; this done, they mount again cheer-
fully, and proceed, encouraging their camels by a
song, a very lively one, if they wish them to go on
a trot ; if only to walk, something more slow and
solemn.
The Arabs who inhabit the great western desart,
are in their persons about five feet seven or eight
inches in height ; and tolerably well set in their
frames, though lean : their complexion is of a dark
olive: they have high cheek bones, and aquiline
noses, rather prominent ; lank cheeks, thin lips, and
rounded chins ; their eyes are black, sparkling, and
intelligent: they have long black hair, coarse, and
very thick ; and the men cut theirs off with their
knives, to the length of about six or eight inches,
and leave it sticking out in every direction from
their head. They all wear long beards — their
limbs are straight, and they can endure hunger,
thirst, hardships, and fatigues, probably better than
any other people under heaven: their clothing in
general is nothing more than a 'piece of coarse
cloth, made of camels' hair, tied round their waists,
hanging nearly down to their knees; or a goat-
skin so fastened on, as to cover their nakedness »
but some of the rich ones wear a covering of linen
368 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
or cotton cloth over their shoulders, to their knees,
hanging something like a shift or shirt, "without
sleeves, and some have, hesides, a haick or a woollen
blanket, about four feet wide, and four yards long,
which they Avrap about them; but this is the case
only with the rich, and their number is very small.
These haicks, and blue shirts, they get from the em-
pire of Morocco, in exchange for camels' hair and
ostrich-feathers ; the only commodities in which
they can trade. The Arab women are short and
meager ; and their features much harder and more
ugly than those of the men; but thiey have long
black hair, which they braid and tuck up in a bunch
on their heads, and fasten it there by means of
thorns. They generally wear strings of black
beads round their necks, and a white circular bone,
of three inches in diameter, in their hair, with bands
of beads or other ornaments around their wrists and
ankles. Their cheek bones are high and promi-
nent ; their visages and lips are thin, and the upper
lip is kept up by means of the two eye-teeth. They
take great pains to make these teeth project for-
ward, and turn up quite in front of the line of their
other fore-teeth, which are as white and sound as
ivory. Their eyes are round, black, very expres-
sive, and extremely beautiful, particularly in the
young women, who are generally plump and lasci-
vious. The women wear a dress of coarse camels'
hair cloth, which they manufacture in the same way
they make* their tent cloth ; it covers their shoul-
ders, leaving their arms and breasts naked : it is
sewed up on each side, and falls down nearly to
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 369
their knees ; they have a fold in this, hke a sack,
next their skin on their shoulders, in which they
carry their httle children; and the breasts of the
middle aged women become so extremely long,
lank, and pendulous, that they have no other trou-
ble in nufsing the child which is on their backs,
when walking about, than to throw up their breasts
over the top of their shoulders, so that the child
may apply its lips.
All the Arabs go barefoot; the children, both male
and female, before they come to the age of puberty,
run about entirely naked, and this exposure to the
sun is one o;reat cause of their black colour. The
males are all circumcised at the age of eight years,
not as a religious rite, but bet ause it is found neces-
sary as a preventive of a disease incident to the
climate. The men are very quick, active, and in-
telligent — more so, taken collectively, than any other
set of men I had ever come across in the different
parts of the world I had before visited. They a?'e
the lords and masters in their families, and are very
severe and cruel to their wives, whom they treat as
mere necessarv slaves, and thev do not allow them
even as much liberty as th<^y giant to their negroes,
either in speech or action : they are considered by
the men as beings without souls, and consequently,
they are not permitted to join in their devotions,
but are kept constantly drud£:ir)s: at something: or
other, and are seldom allowed to speak when men
are conversing together. They are very filthy in
their persons, not even cleansing themselves w?th
sand, and are covered with vermin. The continual
3b
370 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
harsh treatment, and hard drudgery to which they
are subject, have worn off that fine edge of deli-
cacy, sensibility, and compassion, so natural to their
sex. and transformed them into unfeehng and unpi-
tyinj^ bf iffgs ; so much so, that their conduct to-
•wards nie and ray companions in distress,»was brutal
in the extreme, and betrayed the extinction of every
humane and generous feeling.
The Arab is high-spirited, brave, avaricious, ra-
pacious, revengeful ; and, strange as it may appear,
is at the same time hospitable and compassionate :
he is proud of being able to maintain his independ-
ence, though on a dreary desart, and despises those
who are so mean and degraded as to submit to any
government but that of the Most High. He struts
about sole master of what wealth he possesses, al-
ways ready to defend it, and believes himself the
happiest of men, and the most learned also ; hand-
ing down the tradition of his ancestors, as he is per-
suaded, for thousands of years. He looks upon all
other men to be vile, and beneath his notice, except
as merchandise : he is content to live on the milk of
his camels, which he takes great care to rear, and
thanks his God daily for his continual mercies.
7^hey considered themselves as much above me and
my comj)anions, both in intellect and acquired know-
ledge, as the proud and pampered West India plan-
ter (long .accustomed to rule over slaves) fancies
hifnself above the meanest new negro, just brought
iq chains from the coast of Africa. They never
correct their male children, but the females are beat
wlt|iiQut mercy. The men were not cruel to us far-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 371
ther than they thought we were obstinate, and al-
ways gave us a small share of what they themselves
h-ad to subsist on.
I never witnessed a marriage among them, but
was told that when a young man sees a girl that
, pleases him, he asks her of her father, and she be-
comes his wife without ceremony. Polygamy is al-
lowed, but the Arabs of the desart have but very
seldom more than one wife, unless amongst some of
the rich ones, who have need of servants, when
they take another wife, and sometimes a third.
They all learn to read and write : in every family
or division of a tribe, they have one man who acts as
teacher to the children : they have boards of from
one foot square to two feet long, and about an inch
thick by eighteen inches wide : on these boards the
children learn to write with a piece of pointed led;
they have the secret of making ink, and that ol a very
black dye : when a family of wandering Arabs pitch
their tents, they set apart a place for a school : this
they surround with broken shrubs in the desart to
keep off the wind — here all the boys who have been
circumcised, of from eight to eighteen or twenty
years old, attend, and are taught to rea<i and to write
verses from the Koran, which is kept in manuscript
by every family on skins : they write their characters
from right to left — are very particular in the forma-
tion of them, and make their lines very straicrht : all
the children attend from choice or for amusement. —
The teacher, I was told, never punishes a child, but
^ explains the meaningof thin2:s.and amuses liim by tcll-
'ing tal«s that are both entertaining and instructive j
372 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
he reads or rehearses chapters from the Koran or
some other book, for they have a grea? many poems?
&c. written also on skins : when the board is full of
writing, thej rub it off with, sand, and begin again:
thej enumerate with the nine figures now in use
among all European nations, and in America, and
were extremely astonished to finti that I could make
them, and understand their meaning, saying one to
another, "This man must have been a slave before
to some Arabian merchant, who has taught him the
manner- of using the Arabic figures, and contrary to
his law, unless indeed he is a good man and a be-
liever." The boards on which they wrote seemed
to have lasted for ages — they had been split in many
places, and were kept together by small iron plates
on each side, fixed by iron rivets: these plates, as
well as their rude axes, of which each family has one,
are made of tempered iron by the smiths which
belongs to and journey with the tribe. I saw several
of them at work. They burn small wood into char-
coal, and carry it with them on camels : their anvil is
made of a piece of iron a foot long, and pointed at the
end — this they drive into the ground to work on —
the head of the anvil is about six inches over : they
make their fire in a small hole due; in the oround
for that purpose, and blow it up by means of two skins
curiously fixed ; so that while one is filling with air,
they blow with the other, standing between them —
with a hand placed on each, they raise and depress
them at pleasure. By means of a clumsy hammer,
an anvil, and hot irons to bore with, they manage to
fix the saddles for themselves to ride on, and to make^
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 373
knives and a kind of needles, and small rough bladed
axes. This forge is carried about without, the
smallest inconvenience, so that the Arabs even of
the desart are better provided in this respect than
the Israelites were in the days of Saul their King,
Samuel, chap. xiii. verses 19 to 23 — " Now there
was no smith in all the land of Israel ; for the Phi-
listines said, Lest the Hebrews make them swords or.
spears."
There appeared to be no kind of sickness or dis-
ease among the Arabs of the desart during the time
I was with them : I did not hear of, nor see the small-
est symptom of complaint, and they appear to live to
a vast age : there were three people I saw belonging
to the tribe in which I was a slave, namely, two old
men and one woman, who from appearance were much
older than anv I had ever seen ; these men and the
woman had lost all the hair from their heads, beards,
and every part of their bodies — the flesh on them had
entirely wasted away, and their skins appeared to be
dried and drawn tight over the sinews and the bones,
like Egyptian mummies : their eyes were extinct,
having totally wasted away in their sockets, the bones
of which were only covered by their eye-iids: they
had lost the use of all their limbs, and appeared to be
deprived of every sense, so that when their breath
should be spent and their entrails extracted, they
would in my opinion be perfect mummies without
further preparation; for from their appearance there
was not sufficient moisture in their frames to promote
corruption, and I felt convinced that a sight of such
beings, (probably on the desarts of Arabia) might
374 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
have given the Egyptians their first idea of drying
and preserving the dead bodies of their relations and
friends. An unduliful child of civihzed parents
migiit here learn a lesson of filial pietj and benevo-
lence froin these barbarians : the old people always
received the first drink of milk, and a larger share
than even the acting head of the family when they
were scanted in quantity: whenever the family
moved forward, a camel was first prepared for the
old man, by fixing a kind of basket on the animal's
back ; they then put skins or other soft things
into it, to make it easy, and next hfting up the
old man, they place him carefully in the basket,
with a child or two on each side, to take care of
and ^tendy him during the march, while he seems
to 'it aad iiold on, more from long habit than from
choire. — As soon as they stopped to pitch the tents,
the oki man was taken from his camel, and a drink
of water or milk given him, for they take care to
save some for that particular purpose. When the tent
was pitched, he was carefully taken up and placed
under it on their mat, where he could go to sleep: —
this man's voice was very feeble, squeaking, and hol-
low. The remarkably old man I am speaking of
belonged to a family that always pitched their tent
near ours, so that I had an opportunity of witnessing
the manner of his treatment for several days toge-
ther, which was uniformly the same.
After I was redeemed in Mogadore I asked my
inaster Sidi Hamet of what age he supposed this old
man to 'lave been, and he said about eight Zille or
Arabic centuries. Now an Arabic century, or Zi//«,
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 375
is forty lunar years of twelve moons in each year, so
that by this computation he must have been neai iy
three hundred years old: he also told me that it was
Ycry common to find Arabs on different parts of the
great desart, five Zille old, retaining all their facul-
ties, and that he had seen a great many of the . ages
of from seven to eight Zille. He further said, that
my old master from whom he bought me had lived
nearly five Zille or centuries, though he was very
strong and active ; and from the appearance of a threat
many others in the same tribe I could have no doubt
but they were much older. I then asked him how
they knew their own ages, and he answered — " Every
family keeps a record of the ages and names of its
children, which they always preserve and pack up
in the same bag in which they carry the Koran." — I
told him that few people in other parts of the world
lived to the age of two Zille and a half, and the people
of those countries would not believe such a story.
" The Arabs who live on the desart (said he) subsist
entirely on the milk of their camels; it is the miik of
an aniaial that we call sacred, and it causes long hfe :
those who live on nothing else, have no sickness nor
disorders, and are particularly favoured by heaven :
but only carry the same people off from the desart. and
let them live on meat, and bread, and fruits, they
then become subject to every kind of pain and sick-
ness when they are young, and only live to the age
of about two Zille and a half at the most, while a
great many die very young, and not one-tenth part
of the men or women live to the -age of one Zille. I
myself (added he) always feel well when I live on
376 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the ral!k of the cauiel alone, even though I do not
get half as much as I want, for then I am strong; and
can bear heat, and cold, and fatigue, much better than
when I live on flesh, and bread, and fruit, and have
plenty of good fresh water to drink, and if I could
always have as much camel's milk as I could drink, I
would never taste of meat again : but I love bread
and honey very much." — This account from an Arab
who was my friend and the preserver of my life, and
one who had traversed the desait in many directions.,
and who was also a good scholar for an Arab, and on
whose veracity 1 could rely, together with what fell
under my own observation, has removed all doubt
from my mind on that subject, and I am fully of
opinion, that hundreds and thousands of Arabs on
this vast expanse of desart, actually live to the age
of two hundred years of our calendar. My reasons
for this belief, in addition to those already given, are,
1st. That their lives are regular, from the day of
their birth to the day of their death.
2d. That there is no variation in their food,
which is of the most pure and nutritive kind, and can-
not cause in them disorders originating from indiges-
tion, &c. 6i,c.
3d. That the climate they inhabit, though hot,
is perfectly dry, and consequently must be healthy
for those born there ; and,
4th. That in their wandering life they are never
subjected to hard bodily labour, and their daily move-
ments atRu'd tliem sufficient exercise to promote a due
circulation of the fluids ; nor do they ever taste wine
or any ardent spirits, being entirely out of the way of
OBSERVATIONS 0\ AFRICA. 3'77
those articles, and are besides strictly forbidden by
their reh'gion. I am no physician, and cannot there^
fore enter into any learned disquisition on this subject,
but merely give my own impressions respecting it,
without pretending to be less liable to err in judg-
ment than others. It cannot be doubted but that the
Arabs existed as a wandering race long before the
time of the Greeks, and it is possible that they pos-
sessed in those early ages the art of writing, and reck-
oned time by the same method they do at this day;
say forty lunar years for a Zille or century, and that
in translating or quoting from their writings, a Zille
may have been taken for a hundred of our years.
The tribe of Arabs to which I belonged, owned
four horses, or rather mares; they were the general
property, and were fed on milk, and watered every
two days: with these animals they hunt the ostrich,
and with this view, having agreed on the time and
place, the whole of the men assemble before day-
light on their camels, and surround a certain spot of
ground where they calculate on finding ostriches,
witii the horses to windward, and their riders with
loaded muskets in their hands: they then approach
each other until they start the ostriches, who seeing
themselves surrounded on all sides but one, run to
the southward before the wind, followed by the
horses, wiiich it is said run extremely swift, and pres-
sing on the ostrich very hard, the bird runs himself
out of breath in about three hours, when the men on
horseback come up and shoot him: but let these
birds run against the wind, and no horse can overtake
them, for then they do not lose their breath.
3 €
378 CAPTAJN riley's narrative.
After my arrival at Mogadore, I heard of the Heirie^
or small swift camel of the desart, but I never saw
any camel that differed from the common one either
in size or shape, and can only suppose that it may
be a camel of the same race trained for running swift,
and fed on milk like the horses. The common camel
can easily travel one hundred miles in a day. A good
new milch camel gives at one milking when on the
desart about one quart, which is very rich and good :
this is besides what suffices to sustain the young
camel, and is drawn at midnight — 'they only draw
about a gill in the morning.
Most of the Arabs are well armed with good
double-barrelled French fowHng pieces, (which have
excellent locks) and with good scimitars and knives:
each has a kind of bag to carry his slugs, &;c. in, slung
by his neck and hanging down to his waist on the
left side: their big powder-horn is suspended in
like manner : this contains coarse powder, and is
used for loading the muskets, but they all have a lit-
tle, horn in which to carry their fine powder for prim-
ing. Many of the gun barrels that I saw were
worn through, and the holes were stopped up by
brazing : — they have procured many of their guns no
doubt by shipwrecks on the coast of the desart;
many more from caravans that they have overpower-
ed, and others in the way of trade from the French
settlements of Senegal, and from Tunis, Tripoli, and
others ports on the Mediterranean Sea. I did not
see a single Moorish musket or lock during the time
I was among the Arabs of the desart : they were all
made in Europe, and generally in Paris, with the
©BSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 379
maker's name on the locks. They have tolerably
good powder, which they say they know how to nianu-
fkcture, but do not make it fine, so that first rate Eng-
lish or French musket powder is much in request,
and looked upon as invaluable for priming. Their
swords or scimitars they most probably obtain by
the same means as their muskets : they are ever
ready to attack an inferior, or even an equal force,
and fight for the sake of plunder.
Their language is the ancient Arabic; is spoken
with orreat fluency, and is distinguished for its pow-
erful emphasis, and elegant cadence. When they
converse peaceably, (and they are much given to
talking with each other) it thrills on the ear like the
breathinjrs of soft wind-music, and excites in the
soul the most soothing sensations ; but when they
speak in anger, it sounds as hoarse as the roarings
of irritated lions, or the most furious beasts of prey.
They attack the small towns in the vicinity of the
desart, on all sides ; which are walled in to ward off
their incursions: if they are successful, they put all
to the sword, burn the towns, and retire again to the
desart with their spoil. Such is the wandering
Arab of the great African Desart : his hand is
against every man, and consequently every man's
hand is against him.
DESCRIPTION of AN ARABIAN CAMEL OR DROMEDARY.
The Arabian camel, called by the ancients and
by naturalists, the dromedary, is, perhaps, the most
singular, and at the same time one of the most useful
380
animals in nature. He is, when full grown, from
eight to nine feet in height, and about ten to twelve
feet in length, from the end of his nose to the root
of his .tail; his body is small, compared with his
height ; his neck resembles in shape that of a goose
more than any other animal, being long and slender,
and it seems to grow out of the lower part of his
body, between his fore legs : he raises his head to
the height of his back, poking his nose out horizon-
tally, so that his face looks directly upwards, and
his nose bone so high as to be on a line with the top
of the bunch on his back : his head is small, his ears
short ; his eyes are of various colours, from a black
to almost a white; bright, and sparkling with in-
stinctive intelligence, and placed on the sides of his
head in such a manner, that he can see before, be-
hind, and on every side at the same time. His tail
is short, and hangs like that of a cow, with a small
bunch of hair at the end : his legs are long and
slender, though their joints are stout and strong : his
feet are divided something like those of an ox ; but
he has no hoof except on the extreme points of the.
toes ; in other parts they are only covered with skin,
and are soft and yielding : the soles of his feet are not
thicker than stout sole leather: he is generally of
a light ash colour, but varying from that to a dark
brown, and sometimes a reddish brown : many of
thehi are also marked with white spots or stripes on
their forelieads, and on diiferent parts of their bodies :
the hair on his body is short and fine, like the finest
of wool, and serves the Arabs instead of that neces-
sary article, widi which they make their tent cloth
and coarse covering : it is pulled or else falls off once
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 381
a year: the hair about his throat and on the iiump
is eight or ten inches in length, and hangs down : he
has a high bunch on his back, which rises from his
shoulders, and comes to a blunt point at about the
centre of his back, and tapers off to his hips: this
bunch is from one to two feet hioh above the back
bone, and not attached to it nor to the frame of the.
camel, so that in skinning him, the Arabs take off the
bunch with it, which is larger or smaller, as the ca-
mel is fat or lean. He who rides on a camel without
a saddle (which saddle is peculiarly constructed so
as not to touch the bunch) is forced to get on behind
it, where the breadth of the body keeps the rider's
legs extended very wide, while he is obliged to keep
himself from slipping off over the beast's tail, by
clenching both hands into the long hair that covers
the bunch.
The camel is a very domestic animal ; he lies
down on his belly at the command of his master,
folding his legs under him something like a sheep;
there he remains to receive his rider or his burden,
when he rises at a word, and proceeds in the way he
is driven or directed, with the utmost docility and
cheerfulness, while his master encourages him by
singing. The Arabs use neither bridle nor halter,
but guide and manage the camel (whose head is
quite at liberty) by means of a stick, assisted by words
and sounds of the tongue; having one sound to urge
him on faster; one to make him go slower; and a
third, which is a kind of cluck with the tongue, to
make him stop. He chews his cud like an ox, and
has no fore teeth in his upper jaw; but his lips are
382 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
long and rough, so that he nips off the rugged shrubs
without difficulty, on which he is obhged to feed.
The camel seems to have been formed bj nature to
live on desarts : he is patient, fleet, strong, and hardy ;
can endure hunger and thirst better than any other
animal ; can travel through deep and dead sands
with great ease, and over the flinty parts of the des-
art without difficulty, though it is hard for him to go
up or down steep hills and mountains, and to travel
on muddy roads, as he slips about and strains himself;
but he is sure-footed, and walks firmly on a hard dry
surface, or on sand. I have never made the natural
history of animals my study, and it cannot be experted
that I should be acquainted with the particular for-
mation of their interior parts; but I will venture to
say a {ew words in reo;ard to those of the camel,
without fear of contradiction from any one who shall
see and examine for himself, having assisted in butch-
ering three camels while a slave.
The camel is described by naturalists as having,
besides the four stomachs common to ruminating
animals, a fifth bag, exclusively as a reservoir for
water, where it remains without corrupting or mixing
with the otheraiiments: this is a mistake — forthe has:
that holds the water contains also the chewed her-
bage, and is in the camel what a paunch is in an ox.
Into this bag all the rough chewed herbage enters,
where it is softened by the water, thrown again into
the mouth, chewed over, and passes off by another
canal, and the foeces are so dry, that the day after they
are voided, the Arabs strike fire on them instead of
touchwood or punk. Having to draw water for these
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 383
animals, I am certain that the largest sized ones drink
at least two barrels of water at one time, when they
have been long without it, and that the whole of the
camels belonging to the tribe bj whom I was made a
slave, which were then at a well, did not again get a
drop of water within twenty days : these camels were
at least two thousand in number, and were then on
one of the hottest and dryest parts of the great west-
ern desart, Avhere there w as scarcely a green leaf or
shrub to be found, and their owners knew how far it
was back to the same watering-place at which myself
and crew were seized, and to which' they drove them
again at the end of that period — and even that water
was almost as black as ink, owing probably to its
stagnant state in the well, and very brackish, because
it filtered through the sand beach from the ocean,
which was not more than three hundred yards from
the well; and these camels went twenty days with-
out water: — under such circumstances I have not the
smallest doubt but that they can go thirty or forty
days without water before they would die with thirst.
At the end of fifteen days after watering the'camels,
my old master, Mohammed Besso, killed an old and
very poor camel, and I was obliged to assist in dressing,
though not in eating it, for its flesh, bones, and intes-
tines, w^re divided among the whole tribe ; a small
piece to each family : they cut open the paunch of
this camel, (for he had no other bag to contain water)
and dipped out the contents, though thick with foeces,
in order to boil the intestines in it, as well as to drink.
When my master, Sidi Haraet, killed a camel to give
me and my companions some meat, and procure
384 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
something to sustain us on our journey across the
desart, the paunch was rolled out of the camel, and
the water taken from it, thick as it was, to boil the
uncleansed intestines. After drinking this stuff we
put the remainder (about two gallons) with the filth it
contained, into one of our bottles or goat skins, and it
served to sustain life, though the most rank and
nauseous both to the smell and taste that can be
imaofined.
The camel is considered hy the Arab as a sacred
animal : with him he can transport a load of merchan-
dise of several hundred weight with certainty and
celerity through desarts utterly impassible with any
other animal : on him the wanderins: Arab can flee
with his family from any enemy across the trackless
waste one hundred miles or more in a single day if
he wishes, and out of the reach of his pursuers, for
the desart, like the ocean, neither retains nor discloses
any trace of the traveller. Its milk is both food and
drink for the whole family, and when they have a
suificiency of that article, they are contented, and
desire no'lhing more : with his camel the Arab is per-
fectly independent, and can bid defiance to all the
forces that uncivilized foes can send a^rainst him:
with him they collect in strong bands, all well armed,
and fall upon the caravans, slaying without mercy
all they can overpower, and divide their spoil: should
they meet with a repulse, they can flee and soon be
out of sight: they also attack the settlements and
small walled towns in the cultivated country near
the desart, and if strong enonp:h. destrov all the
inhabitants, and drive oifthe cattle : all tlic goods of
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 385
the sfain they carry away on their camels, and return
to the desart, where no force can pursue them without
meeting with certain destruction.
The camel's motions are extremely heavy and
jolting ; his legs being long, he steps a great distance,
and though he appears to go slowly when on a walk,
■yet he proceeds at about the rate of four miles an
hour, and it is difficult for a man to keep pace with
him without runninjj. When the camel trots, he iroes
very fast ; the small trot being about six, and the
great one about eight miles an hour — this they can
do with great ease with light loads for a whole day
together, and will replenish their stomachs at night
with the leaves and twigs of the sullen thorn-bush,
that is barely permitted by nature to vegetate in
that most dreary and desolate of all regions. The
flesh of the camel is good for food ; and that of the
young ones is esteemed preferable to that of the ox:
they bring forth a single young one at a time, and
generally once in about two years, their time of
gestation being about one year. When the camel is
in a heat, he is extremely vicious, so that none dare
come near him : his organ in some measure resembles
that of a horse, but it has a contrary direction, so
that the water is voided behind ; and when obeying
one of the most important instincts of nature, he ie
obliged to make his approach in a retrograde man-
ner. In the year 1804 I was in the island of Lanza-
rote, one of the Canaries, and loaded my vessel
(the brig Eliza and Mary of New-York) with
barilla, which I carried to Belfast in Ireland ; — the
barilla is brought from the interior of the island to
3 D
386 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative.
the port on camels, from whose backs I received and
weighed it. Their common loads were from nine to
twelve quintals of one hundred pounds; but many-
loads overran that weight, and one load in particu-
lar weighed over fifteen hundred pounds. Those
were the same kind of camels used in Barbary, and
on the desart, and indeed I never saw any other kind :
they are said to come to their full growth in six or
eight years, and to live, in many instances, to the age
of fifty or sixty.
CHAP. XXVII.
Some account of Suse, or South Barbary^ and of its
inhabitants, cities, c^c. — the primitive plough and mode
of using it — -primkive churn and method of making
butter.
The country o^Suse, or South Barbary, is bounded
by the Moorish province o( Hah-Hah on the east, by
the Atlas mountains and the great desart, south, and
by the Atlantic Ocean on the north and west : its
length from east to west is about two hundred and
fifty miles; its breadth from north to south one hun-
dred miles. In coming from the desart, its principal
towns are, Waldeleim, which is said to be very large
and strong, and to contain ten thousand inhabitants.
Widnoon is much the largest town in Suse, and its
inhabitants are computed by the Arabs at thirty thou-
sand. Schelem contains four thousand. Siuka,
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA, 387
where I was shut up a slave, does not appear to be
a principal town, but is made up of a cluster of small
ones, nor could I learn the names of the many little
towns or castles in sight of which I passed coming
up : it was formerly a kingdom, and was afterwards
united to those of Morocco and Fez, which now form
the Moorish empire. Suse has however become
entirely independent, for though the emperor of
Morocco claims jurisdiction over the whole of Suse,
and indeed of the whole desart as far south as Soudan,
yet all those countries are in fact independent, and
the emperor's power extends only a few leagues
south and west, from a line drawn through Santa Cruz
or Agader, and Tarudant, south to the Atlas.
The soil of this country is very rich and fruitful :
here wheat, barley, and indian corn, or maize, are
cultivated, and most kinds of kitchen garden vegeta-
bles thrive with great luxuriance: the date, fig,
pomegranate, olive, orange, lemon, sweet and bitter
almond, arga, and many other fruit and forest trees,
thrive exceedingly well, and produce, it is said,
great abundance in their seasons : the gum arabic
and sanderach are also produced there in great
quantities. The country being speckled over with
small cities, towns, and castles, all strongly walled
in with stone laid in clay, is calculated to remind one
of the times of the feudal system; each place is
under the government of its own chief, who is by
common consent the head of the family : they are
under a kind of patriarchal government, and each
individual feels himself perfectly free and indepen-
dent. In case of attack or danger, all unite for the
general defence, under such leaders as shall have
388 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
proved themselves brave, enterprising, and worthy
of command ; and bj this means thej are enabled
to secure themselves against the frequent inroads
and insults of the wandering Arabs, who inhabit
the great Desart in their vicinity, and to repel the
more formidable attacks of the forccH of the Moor-
ish emperor. They raise great numbers of camels,
horses, asses, mules, oxen, goats, and sheep, which
are guarded by their negro slaves, (of whom they
have many) or by the young boys, and they are
driven into their towns or castles every night to pre-
vent their being surprised and carried off by the
Arabs, or other predatory neighbours : their horses
are very handsome, strong, and fleet, of the real
Arabian kind, and very high spirited.
The inhabitants are of a tawny colour, like the
Moors, though not quite so dark, and I was informed
they were principally descendants of the ancient in-
habitants of the country before it was overrun by
the Arabs or Saracens : they are in their persons
about five feet eio-ht or nine inches in heio-ht; stout
built, robust, and athletic, and are very straight
limbed : they have rather a round visage, with pro-
minent features, black hair, sharp pointed noses, and
great bushy beards: their eyes are black, but not so
lively, expressive, or intelligent, as those of the
Arabs: their mouths are wide, and their lips plump.
Their dress consists of a kind of shirt made of blue
guinea or linen cloth, or coarse white muslin, that
passes over their shoulders, and falls down near
their knees, but without sleeves : over this, they
w^ear a haick or blanket made of woollen cloth, of
iibput five yards in length, and an c\\ in width : this
I
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 389
they wrap round them; some of them also wear the
cloak, or sulam, and Moorish trowsers; and have on
their heads either turbans oF white cotton cloth, or
a fold of their haick. The heads of the men are
generally shaved smooth, at least once a month:
their women, like those of the Moors, are not to be
seen by the men, except their husbands or fathers :
the men are very industrious, and work their land
by ploughing it up with a plough formed out of the
trunk of a tree hewn sharp to a point that projects
about two feet forward, from a stout crooked limb,
that serves as a beam to the plough ; while a small-
er, and particularly formed limb, is used as a handle
to steady and govern it. In order to fix their ani-
mals to the plough, they first attach them together,
say a cow and an ass, (for this seemed to make a
favourite pair, and I observed a great many such
pairs yoked together) by fastening a rope round the
horns of the cow, and about the nose of the ass in
form of a halter: they nest place a short piece or
stick of wood, hollowed out like one end of an ox
yoke, across the neck of each animal, and fasten it
by means of a rope tied to one end of the stick ;
this going round under their necks, is made fast to
the other end of the short yoke ; tliey then run a
long pole through under their bellies just behind
their fore legs, and fasten it there by means of two
ropes, like the draw ropes or traces of a horse's
harness: these are fixed to the rope that goes
round the animal's neck at one end, which pole
serves for a yoke, and projects out a foot or two on
each side: to the centre of this pole, the end of
390 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
the plough beam is lashed fast. The point which
enters the ground, is hewn in a triangular shape,
but the edges soon wear off, so that it becomes
nearly round. In loamy and sandy soils, they plough
with the naked wood, but in stony places they point
it with a round piece of iron, tapering to a sharp
point that lets on with a socket : it turns up the
earth on both sides, and goes into the ground about
•eight inches deep. The people of Suse and those
of Morocco, use only one pair of beasts, whatever
they may be, and have lines leading from the heads
of the aniioals into the hands of him who steadies
the plough, by means of which he directs and go-
verns theai : he also carries a thick stick sufficientlv
long to reach them, with a sharp-pointed iron like a
spear in its end; by the help of which he pricks
and goads his beasts along at pleasure. This in-
strument is an ox-goad, and no doubt is similar to
those spoken of in Sacred Writ — 1st Samuel, iii. 1.
but these Moors do not obey that part of the law
of Moses ; " Thou shalt not plough with an ox and
an ass together." See 22d chapter of Deuterono-
my, 10th verse, except by sometimes substituting a
cow instead of an ox. This, I imagine, was the
primitive plough, or something very near it, and the
first method hit upon for using it.
I have also promised to treat of the primitive
churn, and manner of making butter, which is sim-
ply this. The Arabs, or people who inhabited the
country near the river Enphiates, as long ago as
the tinie of Abraham, the father of the Jews, and
probably much earlier, knew the use of the camel.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 391
and actually kept him in a domestic state : they
would very naturally feed on its milk, and they, no
doubt, in those days, made use of the same means to
carry their milk about with them, that the wander-
ing Arabs do at present — that is, whatever milk is
left of what the family has been using over night or
in the morning, is put into a goat skin, or some
other skin, and slung on a camel to serve for drink
in the heat of the day — thus equipped, they set of?
together : and when they stop to take refreshment
or to pitch their tent, they find a lump of butter in
the milk ; for the vi^.tint and continued agitation
occasioned by the heavy motions of* the camel, hag
churned, or forced it to produce butter: this simple
method was suggested to my mind by seeing a lump
of butter in my old master's milk bag, when we were
wandering on the desart — this must, without doubt,
have been the Lrst mode found out by chance, of
making butter ; for what reason would he have,
who had never seen such a thing as butter, for sup-
posing milk could be converted into that substance,
more than any other fluid? For a further. illustra-
tion of this subject, and a view of the camel, see
plate, figure 7, copied from an original drawing by
the author.
T!ic country of Suse, altogether, resembles the
narrow country as described in Holy Writ, called
the land of Canaan : its vast number of small cities,
or rather castles, with high and strong v*^alls, with
gates and bars, each under its own sovereign, must
be similar to the cities there described, as taken and
destroyed by the Jews, (together with their kings)
392 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
soon after thej emerged from the desarts of Arabia,
under the command of their chieftain and prophet,
Joshua, and have, doubtless, been constructed for
the same purpose; i. e. to guard against the irrup-
tions of the wandering inhabitants of the contiguous
desarts, &c. The inhabitants are brave and war-
like : all well armed with single-barrelled muskets,
stocked and mounted in the Moorish manner, and
•with Moorish locks; they have also knives, daggers,
scimitars, and swords, and are the best of horse-
men : thev seldom or ever go out of their little cities
unarmed ; but like the wandering Arab on the de-
sart, they are completely equipped either for oifence
or defence, even when they go to visit their nearest
friends. They are said to be, like the Arabs, warm
and sincere in their friendship; in their enmities im-
placable, cruel, and revengeful; and io trade, cun-
ning and deceitful.
The whole number of inhabitants in Suse, inclu-
dino- white and black slaves, is estimated at near
07ie million : they are all strict obserNois ol the
Mohammedan doctrine and ceremonies, and appear
to be enthusiasts in religion, though like the Moors
tiiey are not generally taught the aits of reading
and writino-, and are in consequence considered by
the wandering Arabs much beneath them in acquire-
ments, as well as in point of natural abilities.
Their language is the corrupt Arabic, not easily
understood by the Arabs of the dcsart, who pre-
tend to speak, and write tliat ancient and beautiful
language in its greatest purity.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 393
CHAP. XXVIII.
Some account of an insurrection in Morocco — the Bashaw
of Sweat ah is seized and put in irons — change of Gover-
nors — the Jews are forced to pay their tribute or turn
J\Iohammed(ins — their treatment by the J\loors — a Jew
burial — a tir umcision — a Jewish priest arrives from,
Jerusalem — the author obtains from him some account of>
the present Jerusalem and its inhabitants^ and of the
method pt rs f'd by the priests for getting money from
the Jews in Europe and in Barbary — a Moorish
execution and maiming — of the Jews in West Barbary.
There had been an insurrection in the province
of Duquella the last year, (1815) which had spread
itself into the province of Abdah and Siedmah^ and
was said to have originated from a false report of
the emperor's death. The o;overnor or Bashaw of
these provinces, whose name was Mohammed ben
Absedik, resided in Swearah, and had been a Bashaw
and a man of great power during nearly the whole
reign of MulejSoliman.tlie present emperor — he was
the officer before whom I was carried on my arrival
at Swearah, or Mogadore. I was informed that he
had used all the means in his power to quell this
insurrection, but could not succeed until the emperor
joined him with an army of thirty thousand men,
when a most desperate battle was fought, which
terminated in the destruction of more than fifteen
thousand of the rebels, and the remainder were
reduced to unconditional submission. The whole of
3e
394 CAPTAIN RILE^^S NARRATIVE.
their flocks, herds, and substance, fell into the hands
of the Sultan, or rather his black troops, who showed
theni pot tiie least mercy, but seized on the wretched
fugitives wherever they could be found, massacred
many thousands, and carried those that remained of
the revolters, with their families, into the provinces
that had not rebelled, where they were distributed
as slaves.
This Avar being thus terminated, Mohammed ben
Absedik had returned in triumph to Mogadore, or
Swearah, a few days previous to my arrival there,
when he caused presents to be made to him, as if he
had taken possession of a new government. Jn the
mean time the death of the Sultan's first minister,
named Ben Slnivij^ was announced : he had been the
^rm {v'\eA\i\ o{ Mohammed ben Jibsedik^ ?inA with the
aid of Muley a 7 m, (the Sultan's princely tea maker)
who was always about his person, managed the
whole affairs of the Moorish empire. Ben Slowy
being dead, and Muleif a Tea sent to Fez to transact
the imperial but^iness in that quarter, the enemies of
Mohammed ben Absedik, (for he had been long in
power, and had a host of them) found means to
transmit heavy complaints to the Sultan against
him (Ben Absedik) and his administration, who per-
ceiving the cloud lowering upon him, set out for Mo-
rocco about the 20th of November, 1815, hoping, by
an early ititcrview with the emperor, to dispel the
impendins:; storm — ho had only been gone from Mo-
gadore or Swearah four days, when late in the evening
anew governor arrived, accompanied by six hundred
horsemen. The gates had been shut for the night ;
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 395
the brother of the Bashaw was civil governor of the
city and port: the emperor's order was sent to him
over the wall ; — the gates were soon opened and the
new governor, or Alcajd, entered amidst the general
and joyful acclamations of the inhabitants, both Mours
and Jews. These ignorant and discontented people
(ever fond of change) flattered themiielves that this
arrangement would be for the better, and in the morn-
ing all were ready to prefer complaints against
their former governor, when they waited on the
new one, and made their customary presents. This
governor took charge of the civil affairs of the city
and the custom-house in the room of Ajjh Hamet,
(or Hamet the pilgrim) the Bashaw's brother, who
was ordered to repair with his family to Moroc"*^'
and set out for that city the next day, accompanie3
by a strong guard of black troops.
In the evening of the same day a commander of
the troops, or military governor, arrived : he was
a blackman, and had three hundred horsemen for
an escort, all of the same colour: he was received
wifli considerable pomp, and took on himself the
immediate command. We now learned that Moham-
med ben Absedik had been put in irons on his arri-
•val at Morocco, and sent off to Fez, and that all his
property was seized by order of the Sultan as soon
as it could be found : "new lords, new laws," says tie
old adage. A small vessel had arrived from Gibial-
tar — no goods could be landed — new duties were
announced, and new regulations, by which no vessel
was allowed to be supplied with provisions except
for daily consumption: the duties and impositions
I:
396
to be paid every day amounted to more than the
first cost of the articles consumed.
The Moors who had rejoiced at the fall of the old
Bashaw and civil governor, or Alcajd, soon changed
their tone, and began to wish them back again — all
the Moors in the town up to that time were considered
as imperial soldiers or sailors, and accordingly receiv-
ed a monthly allowance out of the Beetle mell, or
treasury: this was now ordered to be stopped from
the white Moors, but that all the black Moors, or
negro troops, should be paid double : new officers
were appointed, and many of the old ones confined
and sent to Morocco, or despoiled of their property.
The Christian merchants residing there, four in
umber, were obliged to make costly presents to the
iiew Governor. The Christians are, William Will-
shire, Esq. my deliverer, of the house of Dupuy and
Willsliire, the most respectable there in point of
property, as well as on every other account; — Don
Estevan Leonardi, an old unfeeling man, and his
nephew, Don Antonio, French, Portuguese, and
Genoese consular agents; — Don Pablo Riva, a respec-
table Genoese, and Alexander W. Court, and Mr.
John Foxcroft, formerly respectable. The Jews
that were overjoyed at the recent change, sooa
turned their joy into mourning, when they received,
a day or two after, an order to pay their Gazier^ or
yearly tribute, to the Sultan : the order was for about
three thousand five hundred dollars, including expen-
ses, (for the Moor who brought the order must be
paid) in a gross sum to be raised directly : the gates
of the Jews' town, or millah, were immediately closed
/?:
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 397
upon them, nor were any suffered to go out until the
money was fc^th coming.
The whole number of Jews here does not probably
exceed six thousand souls, and they are very poor ;
the priests soon convened them in their synagogues,
and apportioned the tax according to their law — they
were classed thus: the four Jew merchants, Ben
Guidalla, Macnin, Abilbol, and Zagury, formed the
first class, and I was told their share \vas two thou-
sand dollars or more : the few petty traders the
second, the mechanics the third, and the lowest order
of miserable labourers the fourth class: the priests
and Levites (who are a great proportion of their num-
ber) were of course exempted, as the other classes
support them at all times : not a Jew, either man,
woman, or child, was allowed to go out of their town
for three days, except they were wanted by the
Moors or Christians to work, and not then without
an order from the Alcayd.
During this period I visited the Jews' towns several
times, but never without seeing more or less of these
miserable wretches knocked down like bullocks by
the gate-keepers, with their large canes, as they at-
tempted to rush past them, when the gates were
opened to procure a little water or food for their
hungry and thirsty families. On the fourth day,
when the arrangements had been made by the
priests and elders, they sent word to the governor,
and the three first classes were ordered before him
to pay their apportionment. I knew of it, because I
was informed by Mr. Willshire's interpre r and
broker, who was a Jew of considerable understand-
398 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
ing, named Ben JVahory — he was one of the commit-
tee of arrangement to wait on the* governor. I
wished to see the operation, and went to the house
of the Alcayd for that purpose. The Jews soon
appeared by classes — as they approached, they put
off their slippers, took their money in both their hands,
and holding them alongside each other, as high as
the breast, came slowly forward to the talb, or Mo-
hammedan priest, appointed to receive it ; he took
it from them, hitting each one a smart blow with his
fist on his bare forehead, by way of a receipt for his
mon^y, at which the Jews said, JVaAwia Sidi^ and re-
tired to give place to his companion.
Thus they proceeded through the three first class-
es without much difficulty, when the fourth class was
forced up with big sticks ; this class was very nume-
rous, as well as miserable 5) they approached very
unwillingly, and were asked, one by one, if they
were roady to pay ihexT gazier ; when one said, yes,
he approached as the others had done, paid his
money, took a similar receipt, and then went about
his business — he that said, no, he could not, or was
nut ready, was seized instantly by the Moors, who
throwing him flat on his face to the ground,
gave \\\m about fifty blows with a thick stick upon
his back and posteriors, and conducted him away, I
was told, into a dungeon, under a bomb proof battery^
next the western city wall, facing the ocean : there
were many served this way — the Jews' town was all
this time strongly guarded, and strictly watched.
At the end of three days more, I was informed that
those who were confined in the dunj^jeon were
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 399
brought forth, but I did not see them : the friends of
some of these poor creatures had made up the
money, and they were dismissed : -whilst the others,
after receiving more stripes, were remanded and put
in irons. Before the next three days had expired,
many of them changed their reUgion, were received
by the Moors as brothers, and were taken to the
mosque, and highly feasted, but were held responsi-
ble for the last tax notwithstanding. The four
above-named Jew merchants, in Swearah or Moga-
dore, live in high style; are absolute in the Jews'
town, and manage nearly all the English trade at
Mogadore : at present, their stores are allowed to
be kept in the fortress part of the town, or el Kscb-
bah, where Guidallas and Macnin are permitted to
reside and stay at night, by paying a Handsome sum
to government.
I had the pleasure to see two brigs arrive from
England, and to receive a letter from Mr. Simp^un
at Tangier, and a kind letter from Mr. Sprague at
Gibraltar, which are before-mentioned and inserted.
Two days after the arrival of these vessels from
-London, the one commanded by captain Mackay,
and the other by captain Henderson, I went down to
the water port to see these gentlemen when they
should land in the morning : on my arrival there, I
saw a great concourse of soldiers, and on inquir-
ing the cause, found that an execution was about to
take place, and some malefactors were at the same
time to be maimed. The governor arrived at this
moment, and the prisoners were driven in with their
hands tied: the order for punishment was read by the
400 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
Cadi or Judge, and the culprits told to prepare them-
selves, which they did by saying, Hi el Mllah Shed
a Mohammed Rasool JlUah^ and worshipping. They
were then made to sit down in a line upon their legs
on the ground : a butcher then came forward with a
sharp knife in his hand; he seized the first in the
line on the left, by the beard, with his left hand:
two men were at the same time holding the prison-
er's hands: the butcher began rutting very leisure-
ly with his knife round tiie neck, (wJiicli was a very
thick one,) and kept cutting to the bones until the
flesh was separated ; he then shoved the head vio-
lently from side to side, cutting in with the point of
the knife to divide the sinews, which he seemed to
search (nit among the streams of blood, one by one:
he tit)aliy got the head off, and threw it on a mat
that was spread to receive the mutilated limbs of the
others. There weie ei&'ht more who were sen-
tenced to lose a leg and an arm each, and nine to
lose only one arm. The butcher began to amputate
the legs at the knee joint, by cutting the flesh and
sinews round with his knife, which he sharpened
from time to time on a stone: he would then part
the joint by breaking it short over his knee, as a
butcher would part the joint in the leg of a,n ox.
Having In this manner got off the leg, and thrown
it on the mat, he proceeded to take off the arm at
the elbow, in the same leisurely and clumsy manner;
he seemed, however, to improve by practice, so that
he carved off the hands of the last eiffht at their
wrists, in a very short time — this done, they next
proceeded to take up the arteries, and apply a plas-
©BSERYATIONS ON AFRICA. 401
ter, which was soon accomplished by dipping the
stumps into a kettle of boiling pitch that stood near,
or something that had the same appearance and
smell. Is not this last circumstance an improvement
in surgery? They then carried the lifeless trunk
and mutilated bodies, with the head and other limbs,
to the market: the head and limbs were carried on
a mat by six men, who were making as much sport
as possible, for the spectators: the bodies were
thrown across Jack asses, and they were exposed in
the most public part of the market place, nearly the
whole day. The two governors, and other officers
who were present during the execution of the sen-
tence, were sitting on the ground next to a wall,
appearing quite unconcerned, and were conversing
gaily on other subjects. The Moors, who came from
mere curiosity, did not show the least mark of dis-
approbation, or any signs of horror: they jested
with the butcher, who seemed highly gratified with
the part he was acting.
I now asked Rais bel Cossim, who attended me,
concerning the mode of procuring an executioner,
&c. &c. He told me, that when an order came to
execute or maim any culprits, it generally embraced
several at the same time, so as to make but one job
of it: that the butchers were called on by the
Alcayd or governor, and forced to find one out of
their number to do this work : that they then made
up a purse agreeably to a rule, made among them-
selves in such cases ; that is, two and a half ducats
per man for cutting off" heads, and two ducats per
man for maiming ; (two and a half ducats make one
.3f
402 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATI^.
dollar, or fortj cents per ducat;) they then ques-
tion each other to know who will accept of the
money, and do the job : if no one appears willing,
they cast lots, and the one on whom it falls, is
obliged to undertake it : this man is protected by
the governor for twenty-four hours after the execu-
tion, when he is left to take care of himself, brave
the public odium, and the revenge of the friends
of the sufferer; or else to fly: he generally goes
oflf the first night afterwards to some other place,
and never returns : his wife, if he has one, can be
divorced from him by applying to the Cadi or Judge,
and swearing, that as her husband has served as an
executioner, she is afraid to live with him, lest he
should be tempted to commit some violence on her,
in a similar way.
The butcher who acted on the present occasion,
was a voluntary executioner for forty-eight ducats,
and he decamped the next night, leaving, as I was
informed, a wife and seven children to shift for them-
selves : he was poor, and carried away his wages of
death with him. Mr. Willshire and Don Pablo
Riva confirmed this statement.
Taking a walk round the walls of the city one
day, to make observations on it at low water, in
company with Mr. Savage, and being escorted by a
Moor, in order to protect us from insults, we came to
the Jews' burial place : it is situated a little without
the walls, and on the north side of the city, near
the ruins of a couple of wind-mills, which I was in-
formed, used to do all the grinding for the city ; but
this work is now performed in the town by horse-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 103
mills. On our approach, we observed a great con-
course of Jew women, and heard a great outcry:
curiosity led us to the spot where they were collect-
ed : here was a newly dug grave, and the dead body
of a man lying on the ground near it, enveloped in a
cotton wrapper, with his face partly covered : some
men were busied in clearing out and preparing the
grave; others had brought and were bringing lime,
mortar, and stones, to fill it up with; whilst upwards
of one hundred women were standing in a circle
eastward of the grave, howling in an extraordinary
manner. On a nearer approach, I observed about
a dozen women in tattered garments, who formed an
inner circle. As I gazed with pity on this spectacle,
these twelve women, who were before quiet, seem-
ed to be seized with a sudden paroxysm of grief,
and they began to approach each other with their
hands uplifted above their heads; stretching the
palms towards each other's faces, and commenced
howling, at first moderately, but which soon in-
creased to wailings the most violent, and yellings
that it is impossible to describe : they tore their
faces with their long finger-nails, and made the most
hideous contortions of their features : the mania
was now communicated to all the women present,
who joined in the lamentation, but the others did
not tear their faces like the twelve, who kept it up,
stamping with their feet, and going round in their
circle ; their blood and perspiration mixing together,
and streaming from their faces, ran all over their
filthy garments, and dyed them red in streaks from
head to foot : this paroxysm lasted fifteen or twenty
404 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
minutes, when they were so much exhausted as to be
under the necessity of ceasing for a (ew moments, to
take breath, when they commenced again, and went
over the same ceremony, seemingly with redoubled
vigour. The grave being at last ready, the body
was put in by the men, who then built up over it a
wall of mason work, even with the. surface of the
ground. The grave was dug in a direction north
and south ; the head was placed towards the south,
and space enough left on one side of the body to
support the weight of the mason-work, without
bearing upon the corpse : they next rolled a stone
on it, formed of lime and small pebbles about two
feet square, and as long as the grave ; this they
placed level on a bed of lime mortar, and then re-
tired without speaking, except as much as was ne-
cessary to prompt mutual assistance : the women all
this time keeping up their bowlings. After the men
had retired, the women ceased their wailings, and
seating themselves alongside the wind-mill, were re-
freshed by eating cakes, and drinking copious
draughts of anniseed, Jew brandy, which had been
previously prepared for the purpose, and they soon
became as merry in reality, as they had before ap-
peared to be sad. While these women were rega-
liAg themselves in this manner, I observed an old
woman washing the corpse of a child of about two
years old, in the surf: she then wrapped it up in a
dirty piece of woollen cloth, and carried it to a man
who had been digging a hole for it in the side of
another grave, where he shoved it in ; put a flat
stone before it ; filled up the hole with stone and
OBSERVATIONS OX AFRICA. * 405
igme, and went away : one woman only attended the
burial of the child, besides her who wrapped it up ;
and this must have been its mother, as I judf',ed from
her emotions : she sobbed aloud, while an abundance
of tears trickled down' her wo-worn cheeks. I con-
cluded she was poor and a widow: not a soul seem-
ed to join her, or pay the least attention to her
grief: after a short pause, she kissed the stone that
covered, I presume, the remains of both her husband
and child; wet it with her tears; wiped it with a
clean white cloth she had in her hand, and returned
weeping, amid the brutal scoffs of the Moorish boys,
as she dragged herself along towards her cheerless
abode. The women who had assisted at the other
burial, had by this time ended their repast, and they
went round amongst the graves : many kissed their
hands, and laid them on the grave-stones of their
deceased relations, while others kissed the rude re-
semblance of a face carved on the stone : others
plucked up the weeds and grass that encroached on
the grave, or replaced the earth and small stones
which had been dug out by the rats, or broken off
by the corroding tooth of time.
On my way home to Mr. Willshire's house, I learned
that the corps of the man that was buried, was that
of a Levite, who was poor, and had not been able for
a long time to perform the duties of his office, and
was buried by charity; I also learned from Ben
Nahory, Mr. Willshire's interpreter, that a priest had
arrived from Jerusalem to gather the tribute paid
yearly by all the Jews in Barbary towards the sup-
port of the few Jewish priests who are permitted to
406 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
reside in Jerusalem, by paying a tribute to the Grand
Seignior^ or Sultan of the Turkish empire, and for
purposes of traffic : this is called a voluntary contri-
bution for the support of Jerusalem. All the Jews
in these countries believe that their nation is one
day to sway the sceptre of universal dominion, and
that Jerusalem must be kept as a kind of possession
until the time arrives predicted by their prophets,
when the little stone is to be cut out without hands
from the mountain of Jerusalem, and is to fill the
whole earth. This and other predictions, constantly
and adroitly handled by the crafty priests, together
with the miseries inflicted on the Jews in Barbary bj
the merciless Moors, tend to nurse their natural
superstitions, and render them completely subservient
to the will of those who are considered their spiritual
guides, and who rob them without mercy, under the
pretext of applying the money to good purposes.
A schooner arrived from Gibraltar under the
English flag, though a Genoese vessel, as the Barbary
powers were at war with Genoa — she brought a
cargo of dry goods, iron, steel, cotton, &;c. to Ben
Zagury, aJew; one of his sons came passenger in the
vessel: his name was Elio Zagury ; he was a young
Jew, was dressed in the European fashion, had been
educated in England, and spoke the English language
fluently. As soon as he had seen his father, he call-
ed on Mr. Willshire, and to see me ; expressed great
joy at my deliverance, and invited Mr. Willshire,
myself, and Mr. Savage,to dine with him at his father's
the next Saturday : the invitation was accepted, be-
cause I wanted to learn some of the Jewish customs,
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 4Q7
and get acquainted with the" priest from Jerusalem,
who was a guest in his father's • house. On our
arrival there, I was presented to the priest — he was
a man of middling stature, dark complexion, short
hair, and a most venerable, manly beard, that reached
down nearly to his ceinture, or girdle : his dress was
a brown striped mantle, that buttoned close round
the neck, and fell loosely to his {eet, on which he
had a pair of black slippers, down at the heel, as is
the custom of Moorish Jews : his head was covered
with a camblet coloured turban, very high : in his
hand he held a string of very large beads, which he
was continually counting or telHng over; his mantle
was girt above his hips with a brown silk girdle that
took several turns round him ; and was about six
inches wide. I accosted him in Spanish, which he
spoke very fluently — and made inquiries of him
respecting the present city of Jerusalem and its
inhabitants. From his answers (as he was very
intelligent) I learned that Jerusalem now contains
thirty thousand Turks, and twenty thousand Jews,
Armenians, and Greeks: that a very brisk trade is car-
ried on there, principally by Jews, between it, Persia,
Constantinople, and Jaffa, which Jews are perraittecl
to reside there and trade, on paying a tribute to the
Grand Seignior: that the language mostly spoken by
the Jews at Jerusalem is the Spanish : that there is
a convent of Christian monks near it, containing »
number of St. Francisco's order.
The walls of Jerusalem are strong and well built :
all religious denominations are there tolerated br
paying contributions, and protected by order of the
408 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
Grand Seignior, provided they pay the soldiers well
for their trouble. . The name of this priest was Abra-
ham ben JVassar : he said he should get about twenty
thousand dollars from the Jews in the Moorish do-
minions, and carry the araount of contributions in gold,
embarking again at Tangier foi Gibraltar, where he
should deposit the money while he went to England,
France, Holland, and Germany, for the same purpose :
that there were six more associated with him on the
collecting expeditions : one of them had gone to
Alexandria and other parts of Egypt, to collect from
the Jews there, from whence he would return by way
of the different islands in the Archipelago: one had
sailed for Tripoli, who would take money from the
Jews there and at Malta; thence to Italy and back:
one had gone to Tunis and its various towns, and
would go from thence to Sicily and Sardinia, and
back : one had gone to Algiers and the towns in that
regency, and would go from thence to ancient Greece,
including Venice and that part of Germany bordering
on the Venetian gulf: one had gone over land to Rus-
sia, and would meet him in Germany, after passing
through Poland, Sweden, Denmark, Prussia, &c. I
wished to have an estimate of the sums likely to be
collected in all those places, and then he began to
be a little reserved. However, after considerable
conversation and solicitation, he one day gave me
what he stated to be the amount of collections as per
the last returns of 1813, which he had with him in
Hebrew, and I set it down as he interpreted, after
he had first brouglit the several sums into Spanish
dollars : it made upin the countries already mentionetl>
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 409
^ve hundred and eighty thousand dollars : this was
exclusive of the expenses of collecting and travelling
out, and returning again to Jerusalem. Many indivi-
duals of the priests also came from Jerusalem to
Barbary, begging on their own account. Out of this
fund a yearly tribute is paid to the Grand Seignior,
besides impositions in the form of presents to the
Turkish officers ; and the remainder serves to sup-
port the priests, who are very numerous in Jerusalem,
and for commercial purposes: thus the superstition
and credulity of the ignorant Jews in all Europe
and Africa, as well as in Asfa, are made subservient
to the purposes of the priests and elders of that
singular people, who still reside, by permission, at
Jerusalem.
The city of Jerusalem lies from forty miles east oi
Jaffy, a small port on the Mediterranean sea: from
thence to Jerusalem the road is good, and the priest
told me he had walked the distance in two days.
Jaffy is the port anciently called Joppa: it has a
small town and fortress, and considerable trade with
Jerusalem, the islands in the Archipelago, and with
Egypt, and some with Malta and Italy: here the
Jewish priests who are sent out on begging expedi-
tions, embark, and return by way of the same place,
generally in Greek vessels of small burden, but very
well built and manned.
The priest asked me many questions respecting
America, of which he knew but very little, and
thought it was a wilderness or a desart. After I
had put him right in regard to those points, and in-
formed him we had many Jews in America, where
3g
410 CAPTAIN ftlLEV's NARRATIVE.
they enjoyed every kind of privilege in eommon with
people of other rehgions ; that they could hold
landed estates, &c. and that many of them were
very rich, he declared that as soon as he should
have finished his present tour, which would still de-
tain him more than a year, he would try to obtain
leave to visit America, and collect the dues there.
I informed him that our Jews were not so supersti-
tious, nor in such bad repute, as those in Africa or
Europe, where they were looked upon as a set of
sharpers and villains : " that may be, (said he,) but
if they are Jews, they must conform to the laws of
Moses, and must contribute towards the support of
those of their nation who reside in the Holy Land,
in order to be ready for the future conquest of Je-
rusalem, which would be the fulfilment ©f God's
promises to his people." I asked him in what man-
ner they collected this contribution ? and he told me,
that " having letters from the chief priest and elders
at Jerusalem, the collectors (who were always
priests) were kindly received and well treated by
all Jews wherever they came— that soon after their
arrival in any place where synagogues are establish-
ed, they convene all the Jews together, and having
laid before them the authority by which they make
the demand, they then proceed, with the assistance
of the priests and chief Jews of the place, to class
them, and apportion the sum to be raised amongst
them according to their ability : when that is done,
the tax must be paid without delay : It takes up six
or eight months time to make up the sums and finish
the collections in the empire of Morocco."
OBSERVATIONS ©X AFRICA. 411
The Jews In West Barbary, are as completely
under the control of the Moors, as if they were
slaves, though they fancy themselves, in some mea-
sure, free : even their dress is regulated by a Moor-
ish law: that of the men consists of a shitt, without
a collar, and wide petticoat drawers that come tight
below the knees — the sleeves of the shirt, which are
of the full breadth, of coarse muslin cloth, fall a
little belo'w their elbows, and are not plaited in any
way, but hang flowing: they wear above the shirt,
a jacket with short sleeves to their elbows — the
jacket is generally made of green woollen cloth, with
• a small collar, buttoned tight round the lower part
of the neck ; it is sometimes wrought with need'e-
work from the collar to the waist in front, with
which, and small round buttons, made from the same
materials, it is almost covered : they hook this toge-
ther with wire hooks, and again. over this, (those
who can afford it) have a black cotton mantle, which
comes over their shoulders, and falls down to the
calves of their legs — this is so contrived, that one
end can be thrown over the left shoulder in such a
manner as to discover the drawers : they are girded
with sashes of various colours over the mantle round
about their loins : they wear long beards, and black
woollen caps on the back part of their heads, leav-
ing the forehead uncovered, which is shaved often,
and kept smooth. The four merchants that lived in
Mogadore, wore coloured-silk handkerchiefs on
their heads, covering their caps, and tied loosely
under their chins: they all go bare-legged, and wear
Mack slippers on their feet, (as the luxury of colour-
<r?A.
412 CAPTAIN RILEY 'S NARRATIVE.
ed slippers is forbidden them.) In riding, they were
formerly restricted to the ass alone, but now they
use mules, which they are not, however, allowed to
mount or ride within the gates of the city. When
Jews or Jewesses are about to pass a mosque or
place of worship, they must take off their slippers,
and carry them in their hands, going barefoot past
it, and that too, until they enter another street.
The dress hei-e described, is that of the wealthy
who can afford it, but the greater part of the Jews
in West Baroary are poor, miserable, and covered
with rags. A Jewess of the first class, is clad with
a shirt made of muslin, that is \ery wide; the sleeves,
not less than a yard, hang loosely down to the elbow,
when the two hinder parts are doubled and fastened
together behind their backs ; the bosom of this shirt
is wrought with fine needle-work on both sides; it
laps over before, and covers part of the breasts: a
white waistcoat, wrought in like manner, is super-
added : the lower extremity of this is covered by a
wrapper, in form of short petticoats, wrapped round
above the hips, and just laps over in front; this is
commonly made of green broad cloth, and falls down
below the knees : the two lower corners in front, are
covered with a fancifully cut piece of red broad
cloth — the whole is fastened together by a girdle
round the hips, to which are suspended behind a
number of red woollen cords of different lengths,
hanging down Avith a piece of plated silver, or other
metal, bent round each at its lowest end ; these make
a kind of tinkling when they walk by, striking
s^gainst each pther. Their hs^ir is long, coarse, an4
4m
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 413
black, and the principal part turned up, and fasten-
ed on the top of the head, while two small braids
from behind each ear, are attached together at their
extremities, and fall down to their girdles.
Married women of the first class, cover their heads
with a flowing silk handkerchief. Both married and
single w^omen, are extremely fond of ornaments, and
are generally corpulent : they wear amber and pearl
necklaces, with golden hearts, set about with fine
diamonds and other precious stones: many other
ornaments are also hung to their necklaces, which
are frequently connected by golden chains : they
wear silver or gold bracelets around their wrists
and ankles, from one to two inches wide, enriched
with enamel and precious stones. I examined seve-
ral of these ornaments : they are made of the finest
gold, silver, and stones, and the best amber : the
weight of the four bracelets on the wrists and
ankles of a young girl, (a broker's daughter,) was
fourteen ounces, and they cost, together with her
necklaces, ear and finger-rings, and other ornaments,
about two thousand dollars. Those of the Jews
who can get money, are excessively fond of orna-
menting their wives and daughters, and setting off
their charms to the very best advantage ; for it is
their interest to do so; bpt there are very few of
them that have the ability to do it ; not more than
twenty Jews in Mogadore can afford this ex-
pense ; and but few of the rest can furnish their
wives and daughters with bracelets of even base
metal, washed over with silver or gold; yet every
woman feels as if she were naked, without some or
naments of this description.
414 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
The Jews are forced to live in a town by them-
selves, called el Millah^ but the Moors enter it when-
ever they choose, without the smallest restraint, and
go into their houses without any ceremony, where
they take whatever liberties they please with their
wives and daughters, if a Jew happens to be in
the house, the Moor either drives him out, or hires
him to absent himself, or keep the door, which latter
is commonly the case. The Moor compliments the
woman, and no Barbary Jew thinks it a disgrace to
wear antlers, provided they are gilded, for if he
should set about seeking; redress, he could never ob-
tain it. Should a Jew attempt to resist a Moor on
any occasion, he is sure of getting a sound drubbing,
and as his testimony cannot be taken against a
Moor, any more than that of a negro slave in the
West Indies and the Southern States of America,
can be given against a white man ; he is forced to
pocket every affront, and content himself with get-
ting all the money he can from the paramour; so
that to a Jew, a handsome wife or daughter in Bar-
bary, while young, ensures to her husband or father
a competence, and of course, a consequence amon^
his brethren.
The Jews' Sunday begins on Friday evening at
sunset, after which time no Jew can even light a
candle or lamp, or kindle a fire, or cook any thing
until Saturday night, at the same hour, so that they
heat their ovens on Friday; put in their provisions
.before night, for their next day's meals, and let it
stand in the ovens until Saturday noon, when it is
taken out, and set on the table, or on the floor, bv
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 415
Moors, whom they contrive to hire for that purpose.
Every Jew who can afford it, has brass or silver
lamps hanging up in his house, which are lighted on
Friday, and not extinguished until Sunday morning :
they burn either olive or argan oil. Their principal
and standing Sunday dinner, is called skanah ; it is
made of peas baked in an oven for nearly twenty*-
four hours, with a quantity of Beeves' marrow-bones,
(having very little meat on them,) broken to pieces
over them; it is a very luscious and fattening dish,
and bv no means a bad one : this, with a (evf vesre-
tables, and sometimes a plum-pudding, good bread.
and Je.ws' brandy, distilled from figs and anniseed,
and bittered with wormwood, makes up the repast
ef the Jews who call themselves rich. The poor
can only afford skanah and barley-bread on their
Sunday, and live the rest of tlie week as they can.
They make no scruple of offering for money their
wives and daughters, who are voluptuous in the ex-
treme ; they will furnish their customers with every
facility required, and often even boast of the quali-
ty and merits of their wives' paramours. The men
and boys attend their synagogues, (on their Sundays)
of whicii there are twelve in Mogadore; but these
are no more than small rooms, where all join in jab-
bering over prayers in Hebrew, as fast as they can
speak, every one in his own natural tone of voice,
making, altogether, a most barbarous kind of jargon.
The Jewish women are considered by the men
as having no souls, nor are they allowed to enter
the synagogues but once a year, nor do the women
partake of their sacraments. The sacraments con-
416 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE,
sist of bread and wine, and of circumcision. While
in Mogadore, I attended a Jewish circumcision.
The child being ready, and the friends present, the
priest took him on his left arm, having a pair of sil-
ver tongs in his left hand, with which he guaged and
prepared the parts, and performed the operation
with a sharp knife he had in his right hand, cutting
off a piece of the flesh, as well as all the foreskin:
this appeared to me to be a painful and cruel opera-
tion, and it made the infant scream out most piteous-
Ij. The Jews circumcise at the age of eight days,
and the Moors and Arabs at the age of eight years :
the Arabs cut the foreskin and flesh off square, as
well as the Jews : but with the Arabs, as I have be-
fore observed, it is a preventive of disease, and not
a religious rite. For a view of the Jewish costume
and manner of performing this ceremony in West
Barbary, see plate No. 8.
During my journey towards Tangier, when we
put up at Saffy, during the Jews' Sabbath, having
two Jews in company, who had friends or relations
in that place that entertained them, and furnished a
supper; before eating, they brought forward a cup
in the form of a tankard, and some white bread, in
which some green herbs had been chopped up, and
mixed with it before baking : they all arose at once,
formed a circle round the supper dish, consisting of
boiled fowls, which was set on the floor, and when
standing, all began to chant over their prayers in
Hebrew, as fast as they could speak : there were
about twenty in all, relations and visitors. As I was
's;norant of the Hebrew language, which they spoke.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA, 417
and which I am told, differs materially from that
taught in the schools and colleges of our country.
I could not join with them. This chant, discordant
enough to be sure, took up at least a quarter of an
hour. When they were about to finish, they passed
round the bread, of which each one took a piece,
and not to be singular, I took one also, and ate it.
After saying over a few more words, they handed
round the cup to all, and each took a drink, keeping
up their chant all the time — when it came round to
me, I took it and drank a little : it was wine, made
by steeping dry raisins in water, and to me not very
palatable, being somewhat sour and bitter. After
the cup had gone round, all turned their faces to the
east, bowed thrice, bending their bodies more than
half way to the ground, still going on with their
chant. As soon as they had done worshipping,
they resumed their places round the dish, seized
each other by the hand, giving it a convulsive grasp,
and stamping at the same time with their feet ; this
terminated the ceremony. The chant being finish-
ed, all took their seats around the dish as near as
they could get, on their legs and on the floor, having
first washed their hands ; some vigorously seized the
boiled fowls, which they soon carved, by pulling
them to pieces, and then passed those pieces round
to the company. Their bread was made of barley-
meal; this they dipped in the dish, after each bite,
and called it a sop: the gra'vy in which they dipped
their bread, was the liquor in which the fowls had
been boiled, mixed with vinegar. This was on Fri-
day evening, January the 6th, 1816, about 9 o'clock
3h
,%
118 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
P. M. On the next evening, they repeated the saiii<t
ceremonies. After supper, they amused themselves
by singing songs in Arabic, and telHng stories, which
they kept up with great glee until near midnight,
when, at my entreaty, they retired for the night, as
I wished to get some rest-
CHAP. XXIX.
A'eiv orders arrive from the Emperor — J\Ir. Willshirt
is grossly insulted by Moors — A description of the
city and port of Swearah or J\Iogadore — its in-
habitants, commerce, manufactures, &c.
About the last of November, a courier came to
Mogadore from the emperor to the governor,
ordering him not to sufter a Moor to serve either a
Christian or Jew under any pretence whatever, or to-
live in their houses, under the severest penalty: this
letter was no sooner read, than the news flew to every
part of the town. In consequence of this order, Rai&^
Bel Cossim, Bel Mooden, and a Moor of the name of
Soliman, who had been constantly in and about Mr.
Willshire's house, durst not return to take their
leave : the life of a Christian previous to this was not
safe, even in the city, without a Moor in company to
ward oiF the insults of i^he boys and those of the
Moors who were vicious or fanatical. New orders
had also been given to the guards of the water-port?,
not to allow any one to go on board vessels,, except
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 419
the captains and crews, without a special order from
the governor.
Oa New-year's day captains Mackie and Henderson,
of whom I have before spoken, dined with Mr. Will-
shire ; when they went down to go on board their
vessels, Mr. Wiltshire and myself went to Jtake a
walk round the water-port, it being low tide : the Jv
guards ran after us, seized hold of Mr. Wiilshire, and
turning him round, bid him, in an insulting tone, to go
back, uttering the most abusive language; and drawing
their scimitars, they threatened to cut him down.
We had no Moor with us to witness this insult, but
Mr. Willshire's spirit could not brook this indignity,
and he rebuked these fellows in a very resolute man-
ner, bidding defiance to them and the Alcayd, and
told them that if they offered to touch him again, he
wouldrevengeliimself instantly, and atanyrate would
complain to the emperor, and would cause them to
lose their heads lor insulting a consul and a merchant.
I advised him to return to the port, which he did;
but the Moors were so enraged, that they ran with
all speed to the Alcayd, and told him that Mr. Will-
shire had beat them ; that he called them hard names,
and defied the power of the Sultan. Immediately
soldiers were sent after him, who came up with us
before we got to his house : they insisted on taking
him before the Alcayd forthwith by force, if he would
not go without ; he told them, however, that he must
and would wait for his Jew interpreter Nahory, and
that then he would come : this answer was carried to
the Alcayd, and in a few moments Ben Nahory made
his appearance, and they went before the Alcayd
420 CAPTAft*- UILEY*S :<,ARRATIVE.
together. The Alcajd reprimanded Mr. Willshire
for having cursed the Sultan, and advised him to
settle the business, by giving a present to the guards,
or they would depose against him before the Cudi^
which if they should do, he would be obliged to go
up to'^Iorocco to the emperor, and he (the governor)
said he could not be answerable for the result. Mr.
Willshire defended himself so well bj the help of his
interpreter, who was a cunning Jew, that his accusers
began to lower tiieir tone a little : he stated that he
had the Sultan's letter, which ordered the governors
and Alcajds to see his person protected from insult,
as well as his property, and that the late order had
depri% ed him of the aid and evidence of a Moor, to
which he was entitled by that letter : he added, that
he would write the Sultan an account of the insult
immediately, and of the villany of the port guards,
but would not pay a blanquille, (i. e. a farthing) to
anyone. The Alcayd said he was ordered to protect
him and the other Christians in the port, and wished
them to be respected, but they must respect them-
selves, and by way of an excuse, remarked that the
consuls at Tangier did not go down with tl>e captains
that have the honour of dining with them, to their
boats after dinner ; that this was derogatory to the
etiquette due to their office; but, at the same time,
calling the guards, he told them that Mr. Willshire
was the Sultan's consul ; that they must never lay a
finger on him ; but if he should wish to go off in one
of the boats of the vessels in port, they must permit
him to get into the boat, but prevent it from going off
until they sent him information, in order that he might
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 421
give a permit for him to go on board. He further
told the guards that they had done very wrong, and
if tliey were not careful in future he should dismiss
them. The guards were' very angry, and said it
was intolerable for a Moor to be insulted with
impunity by a Christian dog, and that they would
swear against him before the Cadi that instant; that
they did not fear his (the governor's) power, and
they would appeal to the Sultan and abide his decision.
As they were going to the Cadi, the Alcayd told them
if they did contrary to his orders it would cost them
their heads, and bid them return to their duty im-
mediately ; and in order that there might be no further
complaint on their part, he would make inquiry, and
have justice done to them as well as the consul;
thus ended the aflfalr, which I at first was apprehen-
sive would be attended with more serious consequen-
ces. Mr. Willshire, however, took care to send
presents to the Addals, or four assistants of the
Alcayd, who took occasion to convince the Alcayd,
that the guards were in the wrong — however we
durst not go out walking or riding as formerly, but
w^ere obliged to restrict ourselves to the city, and I
had time to examine it within and round about.
The city of Mogadore, called Swearah by the
Moors and Arabs, or the beautiful picture^ is situated
on the Atlantic Ocean, in latitude 31. 15, (thirty-one
degrees, fifteen minutes north,) and longitude 9 —
(nine degrees) west from London. It is built some-
what in form of an oblong square : its length from
north to south is about three fourths of a mile, and
its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile :'\i
422
stands on a peninsula that has been recovered from
the sea, which washes its walls on the W. N. W. and
south sides every tide, and is sometimes completely
surrounded by water at high spring tides. The
walls are built of stone and lime, generally six feet
thick at their base, and about twenty feet in height,
surmounted with small turrets ; and have batteries
of cannon on them at every angle : the walls generally
are made of rough stone and small sea pebbles, mixed
and cemented tegether by liquid lime-mortar, filling
up every crack solid ; they are plastered over with
this kind of stucco within and without, and are thick*
solid, very firm and hard* On the eastern angle as
you approach the gates, there is a round tower built
of hewn stone, thirty feet high, mounted with about
forty pieces of brass and iron cannon, that command
the approaches of the city on the east side, assisted by
the four batteries on the N. E. angle, and a heavy
battery on the water-port. It is divided into three
ports — el Ksebah, or the strong and lion-like fortress,
is the southernmost, and is surrounded by a double
wall on the east and south sides ; a single wall, but
verythick,next the sea, where there is a strong bomb-
proof battery, mounting about forty pieces of cannon
of different calibers, and most of them are of brass:
this is its whole defence on the seabord. Vessels of
war might anchor, in smooth weather, within half
cannon shot of the town in thirty fathoms water,
rocky bottom. This toAVn is separated from the
main town by a strong wall, whose gates are regularly
shut at 8 o'clock every evening, and not opened until
broad daylight the next morning. The Christiaft
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 423
merchants reside in the fortress, and the four Jew
merchants keep their goods in it. The next is the
main town, where the market is held, and where the
artificers Hve : there is a very handsome square set
apart in that section of the town for a grain market,
surrounded by small shops, kept by Moors and Jews :
these shops are on the ground lloor, have a door, but no
window to them, and are so very small that the keeper
can sit at his ease in the centre and reach every article
in them. They, among other things, manufacture at
Mogadore large quantities of haicks, which are made
of woollen yarn spun by hand with a common iron
spindle, and wove in common rough looms similar to
such as we made use of, even in America, not more
than fifty years ago — they throw the shuttle by hand,
and weave their pieces about five yards long and six
feet wide, and they are sold from the looms at about
two dollars each, but are not allowed to be exported
by sea : they also make axes and many other iron
tools, such as adzes, scimitars, knives, &c. East of the
main town, is the town occupied by the blacks, in a
corner or kind of a triangle made by the outer wall :
it is said to contain two thousand free blacks : this
partis also walled in by itself, and has its gates shut
every night. The negroes that are free enjoy nearly
all the privileges of the Moors, being of the same
religion; still they are not allowed to live together
promiscuously.
The fourth division, is the Jews' town, or Millah:
it is very confined, and occupies the N. W. angle of
the city : the sea washes its outer wall every tide,
and has nearly beat it through on the west side ; it
424 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
is divided from the principal town by a high strong
wall. The Millah has but one gate, which is on its
eastern side, near the north city gate : this is always
strongly guarded, and has a governor or Alcayd to
adjust and settle disputes between the Jews, and
between them and the Moors. The water-port is
two hundred yards south of the city, within the
outer-wall — this is a wall built of hewn-stone, with
several arches, through which the tide flows and ebbs:
the wall is about twenty feet thick, and has a strong
battery of heavy cannon well mounted on it, for the
defence of the harbour : it is extremely well built ,:
its arches are well turned, and the whole work
would bear a comparison with an European fortress.
The harbour spreads itself before the town to the
south, and is shielded from the sea by an island about
two miles long, and half a mile broad, only distant
from the water-port point about five hundred yards.
Between the island and water- port, the vessels
enter, keeping the island side close on board, until
they run down half the length of it, when they may
anchor in two and a half fathoms at low water,
within a cable's lenijth of the island, and with good
cables and anchors ride safe during th?ee quarters
of the year; but vessels drawing over fourteen (eet
water, cannot ride secure on account of the shallow-
ness of the harbour. In the months of December,
January, and February, strong ^ales prevail from
the westward, which heave in such heavy swells
round the two ends of this island, that what seamen
call the send, or sWing of the sea, breaks the strong-
est cables, and forces all the vessels in this port on
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 425
shore.. In the winter of 1815, an Enghsh brig was
driven on shore with a full cargo, and totally lost;
another parted her cables, and was drifting fast to-
wards the water-port, when the master and crew
deserted her in their boat, in hopes of saving their
hves ; but the boat was upset, and all hands were
either drowned or dashed to pieces against the
rocks; the brig's cables, however, caught round
some craggy rocks, which held her through the re-
mainder of the gale, though within a few feet of the
rocks astern. An American schooner's crew were
also lost in this port a few years ago, together with
her supercargo, in consequence of quitting the ves-
sel, and taking to their boat, while the captain, who
was solicitins: assistance from the other vessels in
a
port, was saved, and the schooner was also finally
saved, though she had been totally abandoned: it
is in the winter a very dangerous port, and any ves-
sel entering it, should have three good cables and
anchors, to- moor her head and stern by, and should
strike her yards and topmasts immediately.
The island is called Mogadore by the Europeans,
and \\B.s thus named by the Portuguese or Spaniards,
when they first partially surveyed this coast, and
thence the European name of Mogadore, is derived
for the town, and not from the sanctuary or saint-
house near it, which in Arabic is called Milliah.
This island serves as a State Prison for the Moorish
empire : it is fortified and strongly guarded, com-
monly containing not less than one thousand State
prisoners, who have mostly been Alcaydes and mili-
tary men, and who are frequently pardoned and re-
3 I
42(3 CAPTAIN KILEY S NARRATIVE.
stored to their former posts again, after a few years
trial of their fortitude and patience there in irons.
Provisions are sent to the island twice a week in
good weather. All communication with the island
is forbidden to strangers, under pain of death. On
a rockj point, without the water-port, the nearest
to the island, stands a circular battery to defend the
entrance of the harbour, and protect the island : on
the east side of the harbour, near the Sultan's pa-
lace, there is also a circular battery, well built of
stone, calculated to mount twenty guns, but the
guns that had been mounted on it were taken away,
under an impression that they might fall into the
hands of the Arabs, who attacked Swearah during
the quarrel for the succession, which was terminated
in the elevation of the present Sultan, Muley Soli*
man, to the Moorish throne. "*
Swearah or Mogadore, was built by Sidi Moham-
med, the father of Muley Soliman, who spared no
pains or expense in making it correspond with its
name : it is the only tolerable sea-port in the Moor-
ish dominions, except Tangier, and the only one in
which foreign vessels are allowed a kind of free-
trade, or one without special licenses : the houses
are built of rough stone and lime; are from one to
three stories high, and nearly all have flat terraced
roofs: the streets are narrow, and some of them
almost entirely covered with houses arched or pro-
jecting over them, particularly in the fortress part;
the buildings at first, it is said, were erected under
the inspection of artisans, who were brought from
Europe for the purpose: it is by far the neatest
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 427
lown in the empire, and is computed to contain
about thirty thousand Moors and blacks, and six
thousand Jews. During the contest for the succes-
sion, at the death of Muley Eitzid, who reigned a
short time after the death of Sidi Mohammed, Swea-
rah was attacked by surprise in the night, and about
three thousand of the assailants entered the fortress
part over the walls, and actually got possession of
the streets; but they were soon destroyed by the
garrison and town's people, from the roofs of their
houses: and the army before it, consisting of field-
Moors and Arabs, were put to flight. It has been
since visited and nearly depopulated twice by the
plague, which spread terror and devastation in all
the western part of the empire. Mercantile trade
was here encouraged by its founder, and flourished
to a great extent; large quantities of wheat were
sent from hence to Spain and Portugal ; sheeps'
wool and the gums were also shipped in great abun-
dance; namely, gum-sandarach, arable, &c. (fee. —
almonds, olives, dates, dried figs, and large quanti-
ties of olive-oil, bees-wax, and honey — annis, cum-
min, worm, and other medicinal seeds — pomegra-
nate peel, and many other drugs — goat, calf, and a
few camels' skins, and camels' hair — haicks for the
Guinea trade, and many other articles. Their im-
ports were bar-iron and steel, knives, and other
cutlery, raw cotton, and many kinds of manufactured
cotton goods, woollen cloths, silks, and silk handker-
chiefs, teas, sugars, spices, gold and silver orna-
ments, pearls, amber beads, small Dutch looking-
glasses, German goods, platillas, nankeens, lumber,
428 CAPTAIN ^iiley's narrative.
&c. &c. There were at one time no less than thirty
Christian mercantile houses established there : the
duties on imports are ten per centum, taken in kind
when the goods are landed, except on the articles of
iron, steel, and cotton, on which the duties are paid
in cash at the same rate : (the government allowing
the importer a short credit on the duties :) this is
the duty the Sultan is entitled to by the Koran as
tithes, or tenths, according to their sacred code, for
he is the religious, as well as the temporal sovereign.
The duties on exports are regulated by an imperial
order, and are not steady.
Trade has been depressed of late years by enor-
mous duties on exports, and by prohibitions, so much
so, that there are now only two respectable Christian
establishments in Mogadore, and those who conduct
them are forced to put up with every kind of insult
and imposition : they do no business to a profit, and
must, if it does not soon alter for the better, quit the
place altogether. It is the policy of the present
emperor, who is absolute, to keep the people as
poo as possible, that they may not have it in their
power to rebel ; for a rebellious army cannot be sup-
ported there without money, or kept together without
an immediate hope of plunder, and the Moorish go-
vernment has very little to fear from a partial and ill
organized insurrection, the chiefs of which must have
money as well as bravery, and display good conduct,
or they will soon be forsaken. The Sultan commen-
ced his system by shutting the ports of Santa Cruz,
Sail) , Rabat, Azamore, Darlbeida,&c. and ordering the
foreign merchants residing in them to goto Mogadore
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 429
or Swearah, where he said they should be protected.
Soon afterwards they began to prohibit the introduc-
tion of some articles, then the exportation of many —
sucli as wool, wheat, olive oil, &c. and laid a duty
that amounted to a prohibition on several other
articles of exportation; when the people murmured,
they were told it was a sin to trade with men who did
not follow the true and only holy religion on f arth:
that their prophet had strictly forbidden such traffic
as would be liable to corrupt their morals and defile
them in the sight of God: that this sin had been-
committed, and that God was now taking vengeance
of his people by sending the locusts and the plague
that followed them, laying waste the country, and
unpeopling so many fine cities. These were argu-
ments which had great weight with the superstitious
Moors, aided by the plague which at that time raged
with dreadful fury and swept off three fourths of the
inhabitants of i\iogadorc, Saffy, and several other
towns; tha whole garrison of cl Ksebhah on Ten-
sift river, &;c. &c. Several of the Christian mer-
chants died also of the plague, and many of the most
respectable mercantile Moors : this caused an almost
total stagnation of business, which stagnation has been
increasing, if possible, ever since, owing to these
causes and other heavy commercial restraints impo-
sed by the present emperor.
Should any of the maritime nations declare war
against the Moors, Mogadore might be easily taken
and destroyed, though the place could not be retained
any length of time : a {e\s sloops of war of a light
t
430 CAPTAIN RTLEY's NARRATIVE.
draft of water might enter the harbour and sail dowii
near the south end of the island, where they might
land troops atid take possession of it, which being
high, commands the town ; here they might construct
batteries and beat down its walls at their leisure.
The country near it is covered with nothing but drifts
of sand for a distance beyond cannon shot. The
Moors are very awkward gunners, though as brave as
men can be, believing that if they venture even up to
the very mouth of a cannon, they cannot die one
moment before the time appointed by fate, nor in any
other manner than that which was predestined by
the Almighty before they were created, and even
from the foundation of the world.
CHAP. XXX.
Of the Moors and Moorish Arabs — Feast of expiation —
A Moorish review, and sham-fighi — Hoi^semanship —
of the Arabian horse and his furniture.
The Moors are a stout athletic race of men, and
generally of about five feet ten inches in height.
They sprung from the Bereberies, or old inhabitants
of north and western parts of northern Africa, together
with the descendants of the Carthaginians, and va-
rious Greek and Roman colonies on those coasts, con-
quered by and commixed with the Arabs or Saracens
who passed the Isthmus of Suez, and subjugated the
north of Africa under the caliphs of the pretended
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 431
prophet Mohammed. Fez is at present the great
capital of the empire and chief residence of the empe-
ror, who is styled by the Moors and Arabs el Sultan^
(the Sultan) or as they pronounce it, Sooltan- Suse
has become independent of the Moors. The Moors
are all strict followers of the Mohammedan doctrine,
and firm predestinarians. I call the doctrine Moham-
medan instead Mahometan^ because the name of their
prophets is pronounced, both by the Moors and Arabs,
Mohammed., and both of them pronounce their letters
very distinctly, and with their mouths open like the
Spaniard, giving to every letter its full sound; for
though they write with characters, and do not know
how to form a Roman letter with a pen, yet a person
understanding letters, who hears them speak, would
say they were perfectly familiar with the Roman
alphabet, and laid more emphasis and stress on the
letters, by means of which they speak their language
better than any other people on earth.
The Moors, in general, do not learn to read and
write, but their Talhs are learned men, who take great
pains to become acquainted with the principles of
their own and the ancient Arabic language, and
with the laws of the Koran, which is held by them
to be a sacred book, and to contain nothing but di-
vine revelation. The Talbs transact all the business
that requires writing, and serve alternately as scriv-
eners, lawyers, and priests. Tlie Moors use no
bells for their places of worship, but in the towns and*
cities, their religious houses have high minarets or
steeples, with flat tops and a kind of balustrade rcund
them • to the tops of these the Talbs ascend to call
432 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the people at stated times to prayers, and as the
steeples are very high, and the Talbs are accustomed
to call aloud, they are heard at a great distance,
particularly when all is still in the city. Their times
of prayers are before daylight in the morning, at
about mid-day, about the middle of the afternoon, at
sunset, and again before they retire to rest, about
8 or 9 o'clock in the evening;. The Talhs who are on
the steeples before daylight in the morning, commence
by calling all the faithful to prayers : their voices
sound most harmoniously, and thrill through the
air in a singular manner. I was always awakened
by them myself while I staid at Mogadore, and often
went to the window to hear them ; their call reminded
me of my duty also. After they summoned all the
faithful to attend prayers, they either rehearsed
particular passages from their Bible or Koran, or
sang some sacred poetry with a loud and piercing,
but at the same time a very melodious and pleasing
tone of voice. The Moors who live near the places
of worship go in, join with the Talbs and pray togeth-
er, but by far the greater number perform their devo-
tions in their own rooms. The Talbs, I am informed,
perform their religious duties, which are very fa-
tiguitig, merely from motives of piety — they do not
receive the smallest remuneration either from the
prince or people in any shape or way whatever. All
worshtp by turnin.j- their faces to the east, and bow
their heads in the dust like the wandering Arabs:
they wash their bodies all over with water before
pra vers,as well as their hands and faces ; for which pur-
poses, within the wails of their mosques or churches.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 433
iliey have walls or fountains of water, and large
stone basons in which to bathe. When they appear
before God, (as they call it) in their places of worship,
they divest themselves of all superfluous ornaments
and clothing, and even of their breeches; after
purifying with water, they wrap themselves decently
up in their liaick or blanket only, and go through
their ceremonies with signs of the most profound
devotion. If a Christian enters a Mohammedan place
of worship, he must either change his religion, by
having his head shaved, undergoing the operation of
circumcision, and confessing there is but one God, and
that Mohammed is his holy prophet, &c. or suffer
instant death — but I have ventured to look into them
from the street. The court leading to the mosque
was paved with tiles, and kept very clean, with stone
basons filled with pure water on each side for the
purposes of purification ; though I durst not approach
so near as to see in what manner the interior part
was arranged, but I was informed they wore entirely
free from ornaments. The women are not generallt
permitted to enter their houses of religious worship,
nor even to appear in the streets, unless they are
completely covered by their clothing, which going
over their heads, is held in such a manner by their
hands on the inside, as only to permit them to peep
out with one eye, to discover and pick their way; so
that no Moor or Christian can see their faces. In
the streets, they are very seldom seen, and are so
extremely fleshy, that they waddle, rather than walk
along, like fat and clumsy ducks. No Moor will
marry a wife until she is well fatted by her father,
3 K
434 CAPlTAiN kiley's narrative.
and if it is not in the husband's power afterwards
to keep her in the same good case and condition, or
rather, to improve upon it, he is dissatisfied, and
endeavours to get clear of her, which he very often,
effects, for he will not keep a wife unless she is very
fleshy, or bed with what he calls " a death skeleton^
The women visit each other, and walk together on
the tops of their houses, but even the husband can-
not enter the room they are in when uncovered, or
get a sight of his neighbour's wife or daughter,
being strictly forbidden by his religion to look on
any other woman than his own wife or wives ; — thus
the Moors, when they receive company, sit down
with them on the ground outside of their houses,
where they converse together; but notwithstanding
all these precautions, as the women are very amo-
rous, they manage to introduce their gallants bj
means of the female covering, and the privilege they
enjoy of visiting each other, and get their lovers off
by the same means undiscovered.
The Moors go off in large numbers every year,
forming a great caravan, on a pilgrimage to Mecca,,
and return in three or four years ,• every Moslemin
being by law obliged to visit the tomb of his prophet
■once in his life-time, if he can afford to pay the ex-
penses of his journey. The men who have been to
Mecca, and returned, are dignified by the name of
el ajjk, (or the pilgrim) and the women who go and
return, (for there are a few who venture,) are allow-
ed the privilege of wearing the haick, or man'a
blanket; of walking the streets uncovered, like men,
and of conversing with them promiscuously, as they
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 43i»
may deem fit, being considered holy women, and as
possessing souls by special grace and favour. Every
Moor, who is born an idiot, or becomes delirious, i&
considered a saint, and is treated with the greatest
attention and respect by every one ; is clothed, and
fed, and taken the greatest care of by the whole
community ; and, do what he will, he cannot commit
a crime in the eye of their law.
Soon after my arrival at Mogadore, about the
15th of November, 1815, the feast of expiation was
celebrated by the Moors, at which every Moham-
medan is by law obliged to kill a sheep, if it is pos-
sible for him to procure one ; if not, each kills such
other animal as he can obtain : the rich (if liberal)
kill a number proportioned to their wealth and in-
clination, and distribute them amongst their rela»
tions, or the poor who have none to kill. Rais bel
Cossim (i. e. Captain bel Cossim) killed seven
sheep: tliey had been bought long before, and wer^
well fatted for the purpose : the first day of the feast
was spent in visiting, and in giving and receiving
presents or gifts; and the second in mihtary parade.
On the morning of that day, I accompanied Mr.
Willshire to the top of a house, formerly occupied
by a Mr. Chiappi, deceased, who was the Portu-
guese Consul at Mogadore, for many years: this
house was, before it went to decay, the largest and
most elegant in that city ; it stood near, and over-
looked the eastern wall : from that place, we saw
from thirteen to fifteen hundred Arabian horses, fleet
as the wind, and full of fire, mounted by Moors and
Arabs, who sat on strons; Moorish saddles that came
436 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
*
irp high befere and behind, covered with rich quilted
scarlet broadcloth. They were paraded between
the outer and main walls of the city — the horsemen
were dressed with red caftans or vests, not general-
ly worn by them, except on great occasions : these
were covered with worsted haicks, wove transparent
like bunting for ships' flags : each rider was armed
•with a long Moorish musket, and had a knife or
scimitar hanging loosely by his side : they wore on
their heads, either white turbans twisted and wound
many timps around, or a red cap, in token of their
being regular imperial soldiers, or else a fold of their
haick : their bridle bits were the most powerful of
the Arabian kind. The horses were all studs, and
wore their whole natural quantity of main and tail
unmutilated in any part, and consequently retained
all their natural fire, beauty, strength, and pride :
each hoise was furnished with a head-piece, resem-
bling the stall of a bridle at top, and a halter
below — this stall or head-piece, was made of the
richest scarlet cord and velvet, with fringe hanging
down oyer, and nearly covering his eyes, and a
large pendulous pad of scarlet velvet cloth under
each ear : the neck of each was adorned with a very
elegant scarlet cord, having a handsome knob and
tassal underneath: these trappings were s'olely for
ornament, and not for use, and put on before the bri-
dle. Each had, besides, a small red cord about his
neck, to which was fastened a number of little bags,
made of fine red Morocco leather — these bags, I
learned on inquiry, were stuffed with scraps of
paper, covered with Arabic writing, llirnishedto the
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 4J7
owner of the horse by jugglers ; and, as they pre-
tend^ serve as a charm to ward off the effects ol
" evil eyes.i'^ or witchcraft, in which they all believe :
the Moors and Arabs are so firmly attached to this
superstitious opinion, that they believe both them-
selves and their horses are in imminent danger
■without this favourite charm.
The Moorish and Arabian saddle, which I consi-
der to be the very best that can be invented by
man to keep the rider steady in his seat, is fastened
on by a strong girth under the horse's belly, and by
one round his breast, but without any crupper: the
stirrups are made of broad pieces of sheet iron or
brass, and for the most part plated with silver — the
bottom of them is as long as a man's foot, so that he
can shift the position of his feet in them at plea-
sure : they are kept exceedingly bright, and are
taken up short and tied to the saddle by braided
leather thongs ; so that in order to support liimself
firmly in his saddle, the rider has only to press his
feet to the horse's sides, near his flanks; his knees
on the lower part of the saddle ; thus resting at five
points at one and the same time. The bridle is of
that kind which will either stop the fiercest horse
in an instant, or snap off his lower jaw — so that the
rider has his horse under the most perfect command
possible. This body of horsemen, thus mounted
and equipped, were reviewed by the Bashaw and
Alcayd, or military and civil governors : there were
also five or six thousand foot soldiers assembled for
the same purpose : these were dressed in haicks and
red caps, and armed with muskets and daggers
438 CAPTAIN mLEV's NARRATIVE.
After the review, the exercises began by a discharge
of seventy-four pieces of cannon, mounted on the
different batteries about the city, and then followed
a kind of sham-fight, which was begun near the
northern gate, between two bodies of infantry; they
marched forward to the attack, and each poured in
an irregular fire, which was supported and kept up
in almost one continual blaze by successive advan-
cing lines, until it seemed necessary to bring forward
the heavy cavalry, in order to arrest the progress of
a solid column of men, that kept slowly and con-
stantly advancing upon the opposing troops. The
expected signal was at length given : the whole of
the cavalry was instantly in motion : it advanced in
squadrons of about one hundred, in close order, and
at full speed, and seemed to fly like the wind : the
distance between the opposing forces, was near half
a mile : the horsemen shouting loudly, " hah-hah f
hah-hah /" raised themselves on their stirrups, took
a deliberate aim with their long muskets, when
within five yards of the enemy's lines, and poured
in their fire while going at their greatest speed. I
expected they would inevitably dash in amongst the
infantry, and trample many of them to death ; but
the moment the men had fired, they brought their
horses down upon their haunches, and stopping them
short, reined them instantly round, to make room
for the next approaching squadron, while the horses
of the first squadron walked steadily and leisurely
back, giving time for the riders to reload their mus-
kets at their ease : thus furiously attacked by nu-
merous squadrons, in quick succession, and so close-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 439
Jy, the infantry was soon broken and dispersed, by
which means the cavalry remained apparent masters
of the field.
Nothing of the kind could exceed the ardour,
activrty, and intelligence, displayed by those noble
looking horses ; they seemed almost to flj to the at-
tack, and looked as if determined to rush through
the opposing host, and trample it to atoms; but
when the riders had fired their muskets, and the
horses were turned about the' other way, they were
perfectly calm in an instant, and walked on leisurely
until they were again faced round towards the
enemy ; then their eyes seemed to kindle with fire;
they pawed up the dust, which they seemed to snuff
up into their wide-stretched nostrils, and into which
one might see, as they then appeared, nearly up to
their eyes : they snorted and pranced about in such
a man.jer, that nothing short of the heavy and true
Arabian bridle could have been capable of checkinif
or keeping them in subjection, and nothing short of
the Moorish or Arabian saddle, could have prevent-
ed their riders from being dashed against the ground.
The long spurs of the horsemen had gored their
lianks, so as to make the blood stream out, Avhich.
uniting with their sweat, formed a kind of streaked
froth, that nearly covering their sides, dropped
fast upon the ground, whilst the severe working of
the bit upon their mouths, caused them to bleed pro-
fusely. The dazzling of their stirrups and arms in
the sun, the rattling of their spurs against their stir-
rups, and the clashing of their arms against each
other; the beantifnl appearances o[ the squadron?
440 CAPTAIN RILEY 'S NARRATIVE.
of horses; the cracking of musketry, and continual
shoutings of the mock combatants, produced an ef-
fect truly imposing, and I was of opinion that no
lines of infantry, of equal numbers, however well
formed and commanded, would be capable of" with-
standing their impetuous and repeated shocks, when
actually attacked : this was truly a superb school
for horsemanship.
Sidi Hamet, my old master, had borrowed and
mounted Mr. Willshire's fine horse, and seemed to
be in all his glory Avhile exercising him like the
others. After they- had nearly finished the sham
fight, he, together with a line of Moors, consisting
of about fifteen or twenty, commenced their last
career towards the enemy : they had a cjuarter of a
mile to ride, and all with long muskets in their
hands : they set off their horses at full speed, in a
line, when on their seats ; then turning over, they
placed their heads upon their saddles, and rode with
iheir feet in the air, and their backs towards the
horses' heads for a considerable part of the distance;
then regaining their seats by a sudden movement,
they rose in their stirrups, fired off their pieces close
to the wall, reined their horses around, and returned
again to their post. Many of these horses were ex-
tremely fleet and beautiful, and seemed as much to
exceed in spirit, strength, and courage, the first-rate
race horses I had ever seen in Europe or America,
as those fine animals excel the common old plough
horse.
The Moors soon wear their horses down by hard
service, and then put them into mills to grind their
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 441
grain, as there is scarcely such a thing as a wipd or
water-mill wherewith to grind their breadstuff, to
be found in the Moorish empire. The mares are
never rode or worked, and are kept solely for the
purpose of breeding, and I found that what I had
considered as an exaggerated account of the good
qualities attributed to the Arabian horse, fell far
short of his real merits ; for, though the most
proud, fierce, and fiery of the horse kind, he is, at
the same time, the most docile of those noble ani-
mals. The true Arabian horse is about fourteen
hands in height; his body is long, round, and slen-
der; his limbs small, clean, and straight; he is square-
breasted and round-quartered; his neck well set and
slim, with a beautiful natural curve; his head small,
"with a face inclining to a curve, from the top of the
head to the nostrils, with eyes full, bright, quick,
and intelligent — many of them are of a beautiful
cream colour, and frequently spotted with black,
and varv in colour from a light sorrel, throuo-h all
the shades of bay and chesnut, to the deepest jet
black; they are strong jointed, and full of sinew:
they are naturally docile, and very active; but if
they become in the least vicious, they are doomed to
the mill for the remainder of their days. It was
with much regret I learned that these beautiful and
serviceable animals could not be exported from
either the Moorish dominions, or any other of the
Barbary States, without a special permission, as a
private favour, from the reigning prince, which is
very seldom granted, and only on particular and im-
portant occasions.
3t
342 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
The Arabs inhabiting Morocco, live in tents, in
a wandering state ; for the true Arabs will not be
confined within walls, and are a distinct race of men
from the Moors. They keep large herds of cattle,
horses, camels, sheep, goats, and asses, making use
of the milk of all the females for butter and for
drink : they supply the cities with butter, which
they make by the simple process of putting the milk
into a goat-skin, the hair side in, hanging it up by
the legs, and shaking it by the help of a rope, by
which it is fastened; when the butter is made, they
pack it, hair and all, into earthen jars that hold from
two to four pounds each, and in that state, carry it
to market without salting, selling the butter, jar, and
all, for a mere trifle : they cultivate nearly all the
plain land that is cultivated in the empire of Mo-
rocco, (as the Bereberies till the hilly country and
sides of the mountains,) except the grounds in the
immediate vicinity of the cities, which they do not
approach for the purposes of agriculture, those
being cultivated and dressed by the Moors and their
slaves. They live in families or sections of tribes,
and pitch their tents in companies of from twenty to
one hundred and fifty tents, each tent containing one
family: these tents, when pitched, are called a
Douhar ; they elect a chief to each of these dou-
hars, whom they dignify with the title of Alcayd or
Sheick, for the time being: their authority, however,
is rather of an advisory than mandatory kind.
Near seed time, they remove and pitch their douhar
(or encampment) near the spot they mean to culti-
vate, and plough and sow the land mih wheat.
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 443
barley, corn, or peas : they fence in some parcels of
land with good high stone fences, particularly or-
chards of fig-trees, but for the most part they are
entirely open ; the sowing being finished, they re-
move again, for the sake of pasture, to other parts
of the same province, in which they continue to re-
side, as they cannot move out of a province without
leave being first obtained from the emperor — thus
they wander from place to place, until near harvest
time ; when they return and gather in their crops
which they have sowed, and which are considered
safe from the flocks, herds, and hands of other tribes,
by common consent or interest, as all rove about in
a similar way, having no fixed habitations; yet
sometimes one tribe sows, and another reaps the
fruit of its labour, but that is only done by force of
arms.
The Moorish Arabs are rather below the middle
stature ; of a dark complexion, resembling that be-
tween the mulatto and a white man, with long- black
hair and black eyes ; they are strong and healthy :
they wear round their bodies a woollen haick, which
does not cover their heads, and go without any other
clothing ; their legs and feet are generally bare ;
their beards lonsf; their cheek-bones hisfh; their
noses regularly hooked ; their lips thin ; and they
are as hardy a race of men as exists ; perhaps, in-
deed, with the exception of the wandering Arabs.
The women wear a kind of a garment made of a
haick, through which they thrust their arms to keep
it up — it hangs down to their knees, and nearly
covers their breasts ; they have a fold behind, like
444 CAPTAIN riley's narrative,
those living on the desart, in which they carry their
young children ; they all stoop forward very much ;
are treated by their husbands as mere necessary
slaves; are obliged to milk the cows, camels, mares,
goats, sheep, and asses; make the butter, and spin
and weave the tent-cloth and clothing by hand for
themselves and families. They both spin and weave
in the same manner as the Arab women of the de-
sart, and bring all the water they use, in large pitch-
ers on their shoulders, let the distance be ever so
great : they take care of, and help to draw the
water for the flocks of sheep, and goats, and herds
of cattle; but the men manage the camels and
horses. They grind their wheat and barley in their
hand-mills, which are the same as on the desart and
in Suse, as already described, and they make cakes,
which they roast in the fire. The women are, in
fact, complete slaves: they are obliged to strike
their tents when they remove, and pack them on
camels, with all the other stuff that is possessed by
the family ; to pitch the tent again, and pack away
the stuff, &c. &c. while the men take upon them-
selves to lord it over them, and drive them about at
pleasure, only looking after the flocks and herds,
and punishing the women and girls, if any are lost :
the men also plough and sow the land, and attend to
the reaping and threshing out the corn. The sickle
they reap with, is nothing more than a knife with a
blade of about a foot long, with the point bent in^^
wards : the principal part of the labour in this busi-
ness, they also oblige the women to perform.
Their law permits them to have seven wives, but
it is recommended to them by their prophet to have
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 445
only one, in order to prevent contention in the
family. When they increase, however, in wealth
or substance, they need more help, and instead of
hiring or buying slaves, they take more wives; and
on this economical and agreeable plan, they make
out to manage the affairs of their household. They
are the same race of people in appearance and man-
ners, as the Arabs of the desart, and have bartered
their liberty for the comforts afforded by a country
susceptible of cultivation. The Arabs are said to
have continued migrating gradually from the de-
sarts and other parts of Arabia into Africa, ever
since the irruptions of the first Saracens, by joining
themselves in small numbers to the returning cara-
vans which go yearly from Morocco, Algiers, Tunis,
Tripoli, &c. on a pilgrimage to visit the tomb of
their prophet at Mecca. These caravans carry
large quantities of goods with them, and make a
trading trip of it, as well as a religious duty ; and
many of the pilgrims return home very rich for
Moors.
CHAP. XXXI.
The present Arabs and ancient Jews compared.
Soon after 1 was seized on as a slave by the wan-
dering Arabs of the great Western Desart, I wai
•truck with the simplicity of their lives and manners,
446
and contrasted the circumstances of their keeping
camels, hving in tents, and wandering about from
day to day, with the simpHcity of the lives of the
old Jewish patriarchs, who also lived in tents, had
camels, and wandered about from place to place;
possessed men-servants and maid-servants — that is,
they owned slaves; but as they for the most part
lived in countries where the soil was capable of cul-
ture, they also had flocks of sheep and goats, and
herds of cattle, and asses ; yet the patriarchs lived
in a thirsty land for a part of the time, and were
often in want of water, as well as of bread. My
mind was also strongly impressed with the similarity
between the patriarchal form of government, and
that prevailing among the Arabs at the present day,
which is, in the strictest sense of the word, paternal ;
the father of each family being its supreme and ab-
solute head : the wandering Arabs will submit to no
other control, and they actually reverence their
fathers and the old men of their tribe next to the
Deity himself, and pay, without the least apparent
compulsion, the most cheerful and implicit obedience
to their orders and wishes. When I became more
acquainted with the Arabs, I observed that the man-
ner of salutation between strangers was very much
like that of the Jewish fathers, as recorded in Holy
Writ, and which also prevailed among the inhabit-
ants of the country where they sojourned. W^hen a
stranger approached an Arab's tent, he first finds
out which way it is pitched; then, going round until
he gets directly in front, he draws near slowly, until
within about one hundred yards, and stops, but al-
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 447
ways with his weapon in his hand, ready for defence,
and then turns his back towards the tent : when he
is perceived by those in and about the tent, (who
are always upon the look out,) and they come forth,
he bows himself nearly to the earth twice, and wor-
ships : upon which one from the tent takes some
water in a bowl, and advances towards him ; this is
done by the head of the family, if he be at home, or
by his eldest son : if none of the males are present,
one of the women goes forward with her bowl of
water, or something else, either to eat or drink, if
they have any ; if not, they take a skin, or roll of
tent-cloth, to make a shelter with for the strano;er.
iVs they come within a few yards of the stranger,
they ask — " is it peace ?" and being answered in
the affirmative, they mutually say — " peace be with
you, with your father's house, your family, and all
you possess ;" — then touching the fingers of the right
hands together, they snap them, and carrying them
to their lips, kiss them, which is the same with them
as to kiss each other's hand ; and thence, I presume,
is derived tlie compliment now in such general use
among the polite Spaniards, which is to say, in
saluting a gentleman, " beso de usted las manos" — I
kiss your hands; if a lady, " I kiss your feet."
The Arab manner of worshipping the Deity, as I
have already described, is by bowing themselves to
the earth, and touching their faces to the ground :
after bowing to the ground six times, they say,
" God is great and good, and Mohammed is his holy,^
prophet:" this is their confession of faith. After
that, they offer up their petitions, that God will
448 CAPTAIN riley's narratite.
keep them under his special protection; that he
will direct them in the right way; that he will lead
them to fountains or wells of living water; that God
will scatter their enemies, and deliver them from all
those who lie in vrait to do them mischief — that he
will prosper their journeys, and enrich them with
the spoil of their enemies, &c. and thej afterwards
recite some poetry, which they call sacred. Since
my being redeemed, I have been told that the form
of worship now in practice among those people, was
taught them by Mohammed; but as these forms do
not differ materially from the forms of worship prac-
tised by Abraham and the other old patriarchs, and
those of the people among whom they dwelt in the
land of Canaan and elsewhere, I am inclined to be-
lieve that the artful prophet did not change their
ancient mode of worshipping the Deity, but on the
contrary, sanctioned their long established custom,
which had continued among that singular race of
men ever since the time of Abraham; and that the
only innovations or alterations he ventured to make
in that respect, were in appointing set times for per-
forming those religious duties ; enjoit-ing besides,
frequent purifications, by washing themselves with
water, and thus inculcating cleanliness, so indispensi-
bly necessary to preserve health in hot countries, as
a rehgious duty.
When travelling along the great Desart, near its
aortherri border, we fell in with flocks of sheep and
goats, which were kept by the women and children,
who were also obliged to water them ; and when,
after our arrival in Suse, while we were travelling
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 449
on its immense plain, and many small cities or towns
were in sight at the same time on every side, with
high stone walls, gates, and bars, and I learned that
each one was independent, and under the command
or government of its own chief, who generally styled
himself a prince; and when I heard the story of
the destruction of Widnah, and other devastations
committed by the wandering Arabs in their vicinity,
I could not avoid figuring to myself, and observing to
my companions at the time, that the country of
Suse mu8t now resemble in appearance the land of
Canaan in the time of Joshua, both in regard to its
numerous little walled cities ; its fertile soil ; and in
many other respects; and that the frequent irrup-
tions of the hordes of wild Arabs from the desart,
destroying and laying waste the country, and the
cities they are able to overpower, bore a strong re-
semblance to the conduct of the ancient Israelites,
when led from the desarts of Arabia into the culti-
vated country near them ; with this ditference, how-
ever, that the Israelites were then particularly
guided, supported, and protected by Divine power,
and consequently were enabled to act in unison, and
with decisive effect against those small, feeble, and
ill-constructed cities.
In travelling from Mogadore to Tangier, in the
empire of Morocco, and coming to those parts of the
provinces of Abdah and Duquella, which are entire-
ly peopled by Arabs living in tents, and in a primi-
tive or wandering state, (their tents being formed of
the same materials, and pitched in the same manner
as those of the Arabs on the desart,) I observed
3 M
450 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
that these people were of a much lighter complexict*
than those on the desart ; but that circumstance, in
all probability, was owing to the climate's being
more temperate ; to their being less exposed to the
rajs of the sun, and better clothed ; yet their fea-
tures were nearly the same, and those of both bear
a strong resemblance to those of the Barbary Jews,
who also have black eyes and Arab noses, lips, hair,
and stature, and whose complexion is but a shade or
two lighter than that of the Moorish Arabs, which
is chiefly occasioned by their different modes of life,
the Jews all living in cities, and the Arabs in the
fields : the Jews, however, are stouter men than the
Arabs, owing, most likely, to the unrestrained inter-
course between the lusty Moors and the Jewesses,
&c. That these Arabs and those who live on the
desart, are the same race of men, 1 have not the
smallest doubt : their height, shape, eyes, noses, and
other features, together with their customs, man-
ners, and habits, being essentially the same. Be-
tween the Barbary Jews and the present Arab^,
there is only a slight difTerence in their religious
ceremonies and belief, and both very much resemble
those forms which were followed by the old Jewish
patriarchs, and their fathers and brethren, as re-
corded in the Book of Genesis. There is one more
singular coincidence between the customs of the old
Israelites and present Arabs, which, though seem-
ingly unimportant, I shall, nevertheless, mention.
The Arabs, both on the desart and in Morocco,
when they have occasion to go abroad from their
tent, in order to obey one of the most pressing calls
OBSERVATIONS ON AFRICA. 451
of nature, always carry a stick or paddle with them,
in the manner and for the same purpose as is men-
tioned of the ancient Israelites in the twenty-third
chapter of Deuteronomy, the twelfth and thirteenth
Terses. The men always sit close to the ground to
urinate, and compelled us, while slaves, to do the
same.
In journeying through the province of Duquella,
I learned from occular demonstration what was
meant when certain personages are described in
Holy Writ, as having an abundance of flocks and
herds, &;c. We stopped, and pitched our tent one
night within a Douhar, which I found in the morn-
ing to consist of one hundred and fifty-four tents :
they were pitched in form of a hollow square, and
about fifty yards apart, occupying a large space of
ground, and all of them facing inwards ; before each
of these tents, the owner had made his beasts lie
down for the night. I felt a desire to know the
number of animals each man possessed, and in order
to make an estimate of the whole with correctness,
I stopped, counted, and set down the whole number
that lay in separate flocks before thirty of the tents
nearest to where I was, and then made an average
of their numbers for each tent, which were nine-
teen camels, eleven head of neat cattle, six asses,
fifty-five sheep, and fifty-two goats : the whole of
the horses within the douhar, I counted separately:
they amounted to one hundred and eighty-six. I
think the flocks I counted were a fair average of the
whole, and I compute them accordingly; that is,
two thousand nine hundred and twentv-six camels;
40% CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
one hundred and eighty-six horses ; eight thousand
seven hundred and seventy sheep; eight thousand
and eight goats; and nine hundred and twenty
asses : — they had besides a considerable number of
dun^-hiil fowls, and a great plenty of dogs. I also
counted the number of inhabitants occupying fifty
tents, which averaged, including slaves and children,
nine to a tent, or one thousand three hundred and
eighty-six in all. These Arabs lead a pastoral life,
and though the amount of their flocks, at first sight,
appears great, yet when it is taken into view that
their only employment is to feed cattle, in which
consists their whole riches or wealth, and their daily
support, the number will not be considered as unrea-
sonably great. This douhar was said to belong to
the Sheick Mohammed ben Abdela^ a very old man,
(whom I saw,) and to consist of his family only — if
so, this Arab must have been very rich and power-
ful, even hke Abraham the patriarch, who had
three hundred and eighteen servants born in his
own house, able to go forth to war, (Genesis xiv.
14,) or like pious Job, who was pre-eminently bless-
ed with flocks and herds, and was also, most proba-
bly, an Arab.
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 453
CHAP. XXXII.
The author ships his companions on hoard a vessel for
Gibraltar^ and sets out himself to travel by land for
Tangier — villany of his Jew companion — Account
of a great Moorish saint — Description of the coun-
try — of the towns of el Ksebbah and Saffy.
Having recovered my strength, so as to be able
to undertake a journey by land, and being desirous
of viewing that part of the empire of Morocco
which hes between Mogadore and Tangier, and also
to visit the American Consul General residing at
that place, in order to make effectual arrangements
for the redemption of the remainder of my unfortu-
nate crew, should they be yet alive, l shipped my
companions on board a Genoese schooner that navi-
gated under the English flag, bound for Gibraltar,
where I intended to meet them. I drew bills on my
friend, Mr. Horatio Sprague, of Gibraltar, for the
amount of cash actually expended by Mr. Willshire
in obtaining our redemption, and in furnishing us
with clothing, though he had given, both to me and
my men, many articles of his own clothing, for which
he would not receive payment, nor would he accept
of any compensation for his trouble, for our board,
nor for the extraordinary expenses incurred in con-
sequence of his exertions to render us every assist-
ance, as well as every service and comfort in his
power, during the whole of our stay with him for
about two months.
454 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative.
Elio Zagury, the Jew whom I have before men-
tioned, was also going to set out for Tangier by landi
and as my friend did not wish me to be troubled with
the arrangements for provisions, &c. on the road,
he agreed with Zagury, for him to furnish me with
every thing necessary during the journey, except a
bed, and paid him the amount agreed on, before-
hand, which was a handsome sum. '
On the 4th day of January, 1816, all being pre-
viously prepared, the schooner sailed with Mr. Sa-
vage, Burns, Clark, and Horace on board. After
seeing her safe out of the harbour, I went, accom-
panied by Mr. Willshire, into the Jews' town, to the
house of old Zagury, where I took my leave of the
Jew priest before mentioned, and we proceeded
without the northern city gate, where the Jews are
permitted to mount their mules or asses. I then
found that the mule on which I was to travel, was
already loaded with two large trunks, one raattrass,
and provisions in proportion, and was told by
Zagury that I must get on the top of this cargo, and
ride the best way 1 could, as he should procure no
other mule on my account. I was not at all pleased
at this plan, but my friend told me it was only a
Jew's trick, and such a one as every man may expect
to be served who has any dealings with those vil-
lains: he then ordered his own mule to be brought
for me, which was ready saddled in the gateway,
and kept there, I believe, for the purpose, antici-
pating deceit on the part of the Jew ; though in this,
as in every other instance, he endeavoured to lighten,.
a^ much as possible, the weight of the obligations
TRA.VELS IN MOROCCO. 455
he had laid me under. His mule was one of the
handsomest and finest I had ever seen — to have re-
fused riding it at that time, would have been to
doubt his friendship — so I mounted the mule, and
proceeded northward in company with Mr. Will-
shire and his trusty friend, Rais bel Cossim, on
horseback. We rode on, conversing together for
about two hours, along the sand-beach, when we
stopped a few moments, and took some refresh-
ments. It was there I took my leave of my bene-
factor. This painful parting, I shall not attempt to
describe ; a last look was at lensfth taken, and a final
adieu uttered, when he rode back towards the city,
and I proceeded on ray journey. We went silently
along, and mounted up the bank ; our company con-
sisted of young Zagury; an old Jew named David;
a Jew servant; two Moors, who were the mule-
teers, and an imperial soldier for our guide, well
mounted on a high-spirited horse, and fully armed:
he was a fine-looking fellow, though half negro, and
possessed all that suavity of manners, so conspicu-
ous in a first-rate Moor or Arab. From these sol-
diers, the emperor chooses his Alcayds and officers
for the army : if they only possess talents and
bravery, their colour is disregarded. The Jews
called him Alcayd, by way of making themselves
appear more respectable, and me they styled el
Tibib del Sultan^ or the Sultan's doctor.
We proceeded on till near dark through a dreary
country, when we came to the Omlays^ or three
springs; there we found a number of travellers
watering their camels, mules, and asses. Having
456 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
let our beasts drink, we turned aside a little to the
south, in a ploughed field, near a few stone-houses,
and pitched for the niofht. We had a bell tent,
which was a very good one, made of two thick-
nesses of canvass; it was large enough to contain
two bed-spreads out, and very tight, and left plenty
of room besides for our other things. We had with
us a box containing tea, coffee, sugar, &:c. coals to
make a fire, and all the utensils necessary for cook-
ing : so we had a cup of tea, and ate some coos-
coo-soo for our supper, and went to sleep very com-
fortably. The soldier and the muleteers slept out-
side the tent on the ground, wrapped up only in
their haicks : this is the constant practice of the
Moors and Arabs when travelling, and they wonder
that people of other nations do not prefer that
method to any other : they carry this custom so far,
that many of the male inhabitants of the cities
sleep on the tops of their houses (which are flat) in
preference to sleeping on their mattrasses under
cover.
At daylight on the morning of the 5th, all our
company were in a bustle, being busily engaged in
striking our tent, and loading the mules, while a cup
of coffee was preparing, and some eggs boiling for
our breakfast; and we set off on our journey long
before sunrise. We travelled along this day on
uneven ground, through groves of Arga trees, which
grew thereabouts spontaneously, and were then
loaded with the oil-nut of various sizes and colours,
from a deep green through, to a lively yellow. The
very shrubs and bushes among which our path lay,
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 4.0.7
were in blossom, and diffused a most delightful fra-
grance. We still heard the roaring of the troubled
ocean, dashing against this inhospitable coast, and
which had been constantly dinning my ears for more
than two months; for it being urged towards this
coast by the continual trade-winds, it never ceases
its loud roarings, which mav generally be heard at
the distance of from twenty to thirty miles from the
sea. The Atlas mountains were still in viev/, whose
pointed tops, now covered with snow, seemed to
glitter in the sun, though at a very great distance.
About sunset, we came near a village consisting of
about twenty stone-houses, flat roofed, one story
high, and as many more built with reeds or sticks, in
form of a sugar-loaf, with a small mosque or place
of worship in the midst. Near this village, which
was not walled in, the first I had seen of the kind,
we pitched our tent, and soon after this was done,
a great number of unarmed Moors, probably four or
five hundred, came by turns to look at us, and in-
quire who I was. At the same time th^ owner of
the village sent to tell us we were welcome, and that
he was sorry it was not in his power to furnish bar-
ley for our mules, for his whole crops had been cut
off by the locusts for the last three years : that he
had bought twenty ducats worth that day, but it
was all gone, as an unusual number of travellr /'
bad called on him; however, he sent us a Ir* ^
s:ood mutton, which I was pressed to acce , ,
about two dozen 01 effffs: our Moors were /
1- 1 • 1 ' w ^ 1 /. -' ^Iso sup-
plied with coos-coo-soo. 1 learned fr ^^ r,
that this man was esteemed a great f ^-^ t m V
3n ' ' ^
458 CAPTAIN KILEY's NAKllATIVK.
Moors ; that bis name v/as JMohamued llfadesba ;
that he taught ali uious Moors who wished it, to
read in the Koran, and the Mohammedan laws; that
he generally had from one to three hundred
scholars or students, who came from every part of
the empire; that he taught ail who came, and sup-
plied them wldi provisions gratis — that his wife and
one daughter prepared the victuals and cooked for
all those people without any assistance whatever,
which was considered by the Moors a continual
miracle, and this, Zaguiy assured me, he for his
own part firmly believed : that he entertained all
travellers who chose to call on him, free of expense;
but, added he, where all his property comes from to
enable him to pay these enormous expenses, nobody
knows.
It was soon reported about that an English doctor
was in the tent, and the old saint sent and begged
me to call and see him : so taking Zagury with me
to act as interpreter, I was conducted by some
Moors to his presence, where I was welcomed by a
withered old man, who was sealed on a mat on the
outside, and leaning against the wall of his house — ■
it was the saint: he requested me to sit down near
him, and then inquired of Zagury who i was : Za-
gury satisfied him on that point, and gave him be-
sides a short sketch of my late disasters — the saint
8^^'^ he was a friend to Christians and men of every
other religion ; that w'e were all children of the
same ht/xvenly Father, and ought to treat each other
like brotl^rs; he also remarked, that God was great
and good, air} had been verv merciful to me, for
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 459
which I ought to he thankful tlie remainder of ray
life. He next informed me, that he was very lame
in his legs, occasioned in the first place by a stone
falling on one of his feet, that had lamed and laid
him up for three or four months, and when he had
so far recovered as to be able to ride out on his
mule, the animal fell down with him, and injured his
lame foot awd 'leg so much that he had not since
been able to use it : this, he said, happened about a
year ago, and within the last few months, his other
leg had become atfectrd, and he had now lost the
use of both of them, which were extremely painful:
he said he did not murmur at his lameness, because
he knew it came from God, and was a punishment
for some of his sins; yet he hoped the Almighty
would be merciful, and pardon his oifences, and
permit him to walk again,* so that he might take
care of his guests, and do more good in the world:
he also told me that the number who were then stu-
dying the Sacred Writings with him, amounted to
about three hundred. I examined his legs; they
were very thin, and yet seemed to be consuming
with a feverish heat; no skin was broken, and !•
concluded that he laboured under an inveterate
chronic disorder, particularly as the joints were
much swelled. I asked him, if he had ever applied
any thing as a remedy, or taken any medicine for
this disorder; he said, no, except that he had bound
some Arabic writing round them, furnished by a
man eminently skilled in the science of witchcraft;
that he had also kept them wet with oil, but had re-
reived no benefit whatever from either of those ap-
4(?0 CAfTAIN HILEy's J^AKRATIVK.
plications : he further said, he knew some men
were endowed with the gift of healing, and hoped
that I could prescribe something that Avould ease
his pains. 1 told him, that I felt disposed to render
him all the service in my power; that I would see
what mediciiie I had, and would consider of his
case : then assuming the air of a quack doctor, I
retired to my tent with a very thoughtful counte-
nance. Our conversation was carried on by the
help of Zagury as an interpreter. I really wished
to administer some relief to this good man, who was
afflicted uith such a painful disorder, and accord-
ingly prepared some soap pills, which was the only
medicine I had with me, and sent them to him, with
directions how to take them. I also advised hira to
discontinue the use of oil ; to rub his limbs frequently
with iiannel-cloths, in order to promote the due cir-
culation of the fluids; to endeavour to walk every
day with the assistance of two men, using his legs
as much as possible, even if they did pain him, and
to bind them up in fine salt every night, while the
heat continued : this, I fancied, might allay the
fever. I also directed a drink to be made for hira,
by boiling the roots of some particular herbs in
water, and thus forming a kind of decoction. Having
explained the nature of his disorder to him, in the
best manner l was able, which gave hira some en-
couragement, I retired to my tent. Many of the
Moors came and wanted me to prescribe something
for their various disorders, which I did according to
the best of my judgment, and the medicines I had
"within my power. Among the rest, was a poor old
TRAVELS IN MOROCGO. 461
gray-headed man ; he came near, and thrusting his
head under the tent, cried out — Tibib, Tibib: (doc-
tor, doctor:) my guard was going to drive him
away, but I told him to let him alone, that I might
find out what ailed him, for he seemed to be in great
distress — so I told Zagury to ask him what his dis-
order was: this he made known without ceremony —
he said, he had been a husband to three wives ; that
two of them, who had died, loved him exceedingly ;
that his present wife was very young, fat, and hand-
some, and yet she was so cold, that notwithstanding
all his caresses, she could not return his love: his
case was, indeed, a very plain one, but to prescribe
a remedy, needed some reflection — so the Jew told
him to go away, and return in half an hour. When
he returned, I pretended to sympathize with him in
his afflictions, and recommended that he should set
her about no kind of work ; that he should entreat
her kindly; feed her on the dish called Shanah;
i. e. peas baked in an oven, and swimming in beePs-
marrow, with a plenty of soft boiled eggs and rich
spices in her coos-coo-soo, &c. &c. — ^that he should
join with her in all her repasts, and chew opium him*
self, if he could procure any, and by no means t©
have intercourse with her oftener than once in two
weeks. He promised very faithfully to obey my
directions, though he did not seem to relish the last
item of advice; but I assured him, with much affect-
ed gravity, that I had done my very best ; so he left
me v/ith a shower of blessings for my kindness, after
having bestowed two dozen of fresh egga on my
Jew interpreter for his trouble. The Moors who
462 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
were the^'piipils of the saint, joined in prayer, and
chanted over sacred poetry for about an hour on ac-
count of his disorder, begging of God to heal their
benefactor, &c.
January the 6th, we started early in the morning,
after I had taken leave of the good old man. We
proceeded on our journey, descending the hills to
the north about half an hour, when we saw one of
the Moors who waited on the old man the night
before, running after us, and hallooing very loudly
to make us stop, which we did, and he soon came up,
bringing Zagury's gold watch, which he had put
under his head the night before on the ground where
our tent was pitched, and had left it through forge t-
fulness and haste : this watch, together with an ele-
gant gold seal, chain, and trinkets, was worth, at
least, three hundred dollars; the Moor generously
refused any compensation for his trouble, and I told
Zagury, it was well for him that the people where
he left it were not Jews : to this he assented, and
said that he believed that the saint was the most
honest man in the world.
After travelling about two hours in a northerly
direction, we came near the ruins, or rather the
walls of an old town or fortress — it was situated on
the left bank of the river Tensift : the walls were
built in a square form ; were about one mile in cir-
cuit, and flanked with thirty small towers, with em-
brazures, where cannon might have been mounted.
A. part of the southern wall had fallen down; it
v^as very thick, and within was nothing but a heap
of stones and ruins. On Inquiry, I was told by my
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 463
guard, that this town was built by the former Sul-
tan, Sidi Mohammed, in order to secure a passage
across the river, when the people of the province
of Abdah rebelled against him; that it was well
garrisoned, and mounted with a great many cannon,
and called el Ksebbah ; or the strong lion-like for-
tress; that it was dismantled by the present empe-
ror, who took away the cannon, and that the garri-
son and all the inhabitants were destroyed a few
years ago by the j-lague, since which no soul has
ventured to live in it. We rode on, and crossed this
stream, dignified by the name of river, but which,
in fact, is no more in the dry season than an Ameri-
can brook. The country, in its valle}-, which is very
wide, is rich and level ; is said to be overflowed in a
rainy season, and was at this ttme cultivated ia
many parts. We went along its right bank, and
saw the site or ruins of what is called old Swearah,
on its left bank, near its entrance into the sea : there
are now only a few huts and four saint-houses to be
seen ; all the other parts of the town are buried in
sand, blown from the sea-shore. The river, near
its mouth, is both deep and wide, and the soldier
said, it was once a considerable port, where vessels
could enter, but its mouth is now entirely dammed
up with sand; only leaving a small passage fcr the
water, which runs off in a shallow stream to the
sea, over a beach of two hundred yards in breadth,
and so high, that the tide cannot enter the river's
mouth. From the banks of this river, we proceed-
ed towards the sea-shore, and descending the higli
Bteep bank, we entered between it and the first bank
404 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRA'riV.E.
from the ocean, and travelled along a delightful in-
clined plane, about four miles in breadth : the sur-
face of this plane was covered with verdure, and
flowers of all the variegated colours of the rainbow,
resembling in appearance the richest Turkey carpet.
About the middle of the afternoon, we met a
courier fourteen days from Tangier; h9,vlng an ink-
horn and paper with me, I wrote by him a (ew lines
to my friend Willshire, and we proceeded along
towards Saffy, pronounced by the natives S'fee.
This inclined plane was the most beautiful that can
be imagined; speckled over with herds of cattle
and numerous flocks of sheep, which were quietly
grazing on its rich herbage. As it was the sixth
day of the week, and the Jews with me were
obliged by their religion to stop the seventh, during
their Sabbath, I had a mind to pitch our tent on this
delightful plain, and pass the Sabbath of rest, by
reposing on its downy bosom, and inhaling its deli-
cious fragrance; but Zagury assured me it was not
safe to lodge there, and that he must enter S'fee in
order to recruit his stock of provision, for that a Jew
could eat no kind of meat except it was killed by a
priest of his nation. He was exceedingly supersti-
tious, though educated in England, and we kept on
towards SafTy. When in sight of the walls of that
city, we came near a large saint-house, on a cliff
near the sea's brink — here our soldier and muleteers
made the Jews dismount, and pass this house bare-
footed, though at half a mile's distance from our
path : he told me that the house was built over the
remains of a great saint ; that eYery man who was
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 465
not a Moslemin must walk past it barefooted ; that
people came to visit it from all quarters to be cured
of their diseases; but, added he, as jou are a good
man, and very weak, you may ride past, but must
pay the saint one dollar towards keeping his house
in repair. I did not much relish this mode of giving
away my money, and told the soldier so ; but he re-
plied, that no Christian must pass it without this tri-
bute, and that it would be demanded from him on
his entrance into S'fee. I was convinced it was only
a trick of his to extort money; but there was no
getting off, and so I paid him the dollar, telling him
at the same time I should set it down as a debt to
the saint's account, and presumed he would have no
objection to repay me in another world: "no, (said
he,) that saint was \evj liberal in this world, and
will, no doubt, pay you both principal and interest
in the other, and intercede for your admission into
paradise into the bargain:" he was a shrev.d fellow,
and understood my feelings on the subject perfectly.
After the Jews had walked about a mile, they
were again permitted to ride. We approached the
city on its south-east or fortress side; some ruins of
its ancient walls were still visible, which proved it
to have formerly been, at least, four times larger
than at present. It was near night, and we went
round the fortress, which appeared to be very strong,
and was defended by a double wall; it is situated
on an eminence, which not only commands the city
that is attached to it below, but is also well situated
for defending all the entrances into the town, and
has a good number of cannon mounted on it : the
3 o
466 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
whole appears extremely well calculated for de-
fence, and I imagine it must originally have been
constructed by some eminent European engineer.
A small brook of water runs from the east near the
northern wall of the city. We entered it at the
eastern gate, and proceeded through a crowd of
spectators to the house of Zagury's Jew friend.
The Jews were obliged to dismount, and walk into
the city, but they allowed me to ride. Having en-
tered the court, (for the building was very spacious,
but had very much decayed, and was fast crumbling
to the ground,) we ascended a broken staircase to
ihe gallery of the first story, and were conducted to
a small room that had been shut up, apparently, for
a lono^ time : the unhing;ed door and shattered win-
dow-shutter were, however, removed to accommo-
date our company, and I took a peep into the apart-
ment; it was about ten feet square, and nearly filled
with filth of almost every description ; the whole
fermenting in rancid Argan oil, which far exceeded
in scent the most stinking fish or blubber oil. The
effluvia arising from this newly opened bed of nasti-
ness entering my olfactory nerves, was immediately
transmitted to the stomach, and brought on an in-
stantaneous vomiting, which continued for about two
hours without intermission, until my stomach was
completely empty, and it threw up besides a consi-
derable quantity of fresh blood : this abominable
stench caused nausea even in the Jews' stomachs ;
however, as there was no other place to lodge in,
and the weather looked likely for rain, they cleared
out this chamber, washed it with hot-water, and
TRAVELS m MOROCCO. 467
fumigated it afterwards with burning charcoal and
b^irastcly^^ Zagury taking care to observe, by way
of recommendation, that this house was built by a
Christian, and that its occupants, who were his
father's friends, were the most respectable Jews in
S'fee. The house was, indeed, large, and had been
very commodious, but its Jewish tenants, consisting
of about twenty miserable dirty families, did not
choose to lend nor let to us a better apartment, and
after refreshing myself with a cup of strong tea, my
stomach became composed, and I went through, in
the course of the evening, their religious ceremo-
nies, in company with the Jews, as I have before
described.
In Saffy, the Jews live in company with, i. e. pro-
miscuously among the Moors in adjoining houses.
On their vSabbath, all the men belonging to the
house went to the synagogues, and the women, in
the mean time, decked themselves in their best at-
tire; they had already stained the insides of their
hands and fingers, between every joint, and their
finger-nails, yellow ; had borrowed and put on fine
ear-rings and necklaces of pearl and amber, and
golden chains, golden hearts, and other trinkets;
these hung down upon their naked bosoms : they
wore bracelets on their ankles and wrists, and had
put on clean hnen, or rather, cotton chemises^ which
was to them a real luxury. Their hair, which was
long and black, was newly braided, and greased
over smoothly with Argan oil: they had painted
their eyes and eyebrows black, and the most of them
wore slippers: thus tricked up in all their finery.
46(8 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
two of the most handsome and stjHshly dressed
damsels, with a number of the second-rate, came
round to that side of the g^allerj where I sat quietly
and alone, writing down notes for mj journal : they
first expressed their wonder at ray manner of wri-
ting from left to right; then at the letters I formed,
&;c. — and having, bv this method, succeeded in divert-
ing my attention from what I was about, the two
Smartest looking girls, who were about sixteen and
eighteen years of age, with quite pretty faces, and
richly dressed, invited me to go with them, and see
their father's room : my curiosity prompted me to
comply, and I suffered them to lead me along into
their chamber, where their mother, a very fleshy
middle aged woman, was sitting on a mattrass ; and
as they had no other seat, they invited me to sit
down on the same bed beside her. After due salu-
tations, the old lady left the room, shutting the door
after her. The object of these sirens was to get
money from me ; but finding I was able to withstand
all their temptations, they at last permitted me to
retire, but not before they had tried every indelicate
art and enticement, of which they were complete
mistresses, to effect their purpose. After I had with-
drawn from the room, I was shown into all the other
apartments on that floor, in succession, and their
artifices were still played off to win me, or rather
my cash, until, at length, finding that all their wiles
proved abortive, they next had recourse to begging
for money, but I had none to spare them.
The Jews in Saffy are very poor and miserable ;
they were generally about half clothed, and that
TiRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 409
with filthy rags. Saffj is a small place, and has no
trade ; so that the Jews are hard put to it, and are
obliged to resort to every base expedient in order
to gain a mere subsistence. I could not but pity
their condition, and lament the depravity to which
they all seemed to be prone, though, perhaps, often-
times plunging into guilt from sheer necessity.
This day I went in company ivith my guard to
view the town and port of S'fee: the town is small,
and strongly walled in on all sides: the walls, for
the most part, are made of rough stone and lime,
like those of Mogadore or Swearah, except that
part next the sea, which is laid up with large hewn
stone, and appears very strong; the walls are flank-
ed with four towers, besides the el Ksebbah, on
which cannon are mounted, and a battery at the
water-port. The town lies very low, and is sur-
rounded on all sides by hills, and appears to be the
receptacle of all the filth of the country near it.
Its streets are very narrow, crooked, irregular, and
not paved : the houses are built of rough stone and
lime; have few windows next the streets; are from
one to three stories high, and flat-roofed ; but, like
the houses in the cities in Spain, have a court, the
interior of which serves for a stable. The public
buildings are three mosques, with high square tow-
ers, and a large hewn stone building, formerly occupied
as a custom-house, but now uninhabited and falling
to pieces. The Jews have also twelve small rooms
for the purpose of worshipping, which they call
syna2;ogues. The number of inhabitants in Saffy is
computed at twenty thousand, that is, sixteen thou-
470 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative.
sand Moors and four thousand Jews. The walls of
the present town, including the fortress, are about
one mile in circumference. The inhabitants of the
city are supplied with good water, brought in kegs on
asse^ from the brook that washes its northern walls.
All the cattle, sheep, &c. that are owned in and feed
near S'fee, are driven within the wails every night,
and from its appearance, no dirt is ever carried out
of the city: the filth in the streets was in many parts
two feet deep at the least, so that it was quite im-
possible for me to get along through the mire with-
out being besmeared with it up to my knees. Pass-
ing along one street as well as I couid pick my way,
i lost both my shoes in the mud, but some Jew boys
recovered them again ; for which service I had to
pay them half a dollar.
The bay of Saffy is formed by the projection of
Cape Cantin ; is very spacious, and well defended by
that cape from the common trade winds. Vessels
visiting that place are obliged to anchor very broad
in the offing, and where the ground is said to be very
foul : the landing-place is either on a sand beach, upon
which the surf breaks with considerable violence, or
else in araono- some rocks, where there was formerly
a kind of basin, which is now nearly filled up with
sand. There were about twenty fishing boats on
this beach, which were in a bad state of repair.
The port of SafJy has been shut by order of the
Sultan for several years. A circular fort stands on a
hill to the north, and within half cannon shot of
the town, and which completely commands it : it had
been lately dismantled, and the cannon carried into
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 471
the city for fear it would be taken possession of by
the field Moors and Arabs during the late rebellion.
The land in the vicinity of this city is for the most
part uncultivated.
CHAP. XXXIII.
Continualion of the journey — description of Ashedre — of
a flight of locusts — of the destroying locust of Africa —
Mazagan, Azamore^ Darlbeda, Bidallah — arrival
at Rabat. Of Rabat.
We left Saffy early on the morning of the 7th of
January, and found the country, as we proceeded
northward, more open, but not much cultivated: the
ground was covered with flowers of dilferent kinds,
and every shrub was also in full blossom, and seemed
to vie in beauty with its neighbour, while their blend-
ed fragrance rising, with the exhaling dews, and
wafted along by a gentle land-breeze, conveyed to
the soul sensations of the most exquisite delight. A\ e
travelled along during this whole day on uneven
ground, frequently meeting large droves of loaded
camels and mules, and passing many groups of tents,
some formed of woollen cloth, and pitched in the
same manner as the Arab tents on the desart, and
others with reeds; regaling ourselves occasionally
with milk, which we found to be excellent, and in
great abundance, and at night pitched our tent near
one of those %mg camps, which arc hero called
Douhars.
472 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
On the morning of the 8th, we started very early,
and after riding about three hours, came to the walls
of old an Portuguese town and fortress, now called
Asbedre^ but in ruins and deserted. It is situated on
the second bank from the sea, one hundred feet above
a beauciful harbour or small port and sound, formed
by an opening through the first bank, which resembles
the entrance of a dock: it appeared shallow, and one
vessel only can enter at a time. This port seems to
be capable of containing a vast number of small
vessels, where they might ride in perfect safety in all
seasons of the year : here is also, near the walls of the
ruin, a small Moorish settlement of badly built houses
and tents. Passing this, we entered into one of the
richest valleys ever formed by nature ; the face of the
earth here was smiling with cultivation, and speckled
over with flocks and herds : here thousands of oxen,
sheep, goats, and camels, horses and asses, were
peaceably feeding in concert, while hundreds of the
inhabitants were busied in tillinis: the rich soil, in
sowing wheat and barley, and cutting down, with a
common sword, the weeds that grew where they had
reaped their last crops, higher than their heads, and
some of them more than an inch in thickness, in or-
der to admit the plough. This valley is bounded
on the south by a long sound or narrow arm of the
sea, in which the tide ebbs and flows many feet :
the sea-water enters it near Asbedre, and on its
right : the valley is bounded by a hill of easy as-
cent : its mean breadth is about four miles, and its
length about twenty miles. The valley contains
hundreds of wells of excellent water, fitted with solid
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 473
stone basins around t,heir mouths, which were covered
with large stones; these serve to give drink to their
flocks, and to quench the thirst of the weary labourer
and traveller. Some of these wells were immensely
deep, and a windlass was rigged to them to draw
the water.
Near the middle of this valley we stopped to take
our dinner — my mind was absorbed in contemplating
the riches and beauties of bountiful nature, when
I observed something that appeared like a cloud of
thick smoke rising over the hill at the north-east, and
with the wind, approaching us rapidly. I remarked
to my Jew, that there must be a monstrous fire in
that quarter; no, said he, they are only locusts. In
the mean time the flight was fast approaching, and
soon came within a short distance, and directly
towards us. Every labourer's attention was instantly
turned from his plough and other employment ; the
oxen were stopped and every one stood aghast with
apprehension and dismay painted in strong colours
on his anxious countetiance, fearing his field was to
become the prey of this devouring plague. The
locusts be^an to descend and allo-hted to the north-
ward of us ; very few passing where we sat ; we
soon mounted and rode on, and as we proceeded we
found the whole surface of the ground covered with
them as thick as they could stand, and all busy in
the work of destruction. As it was necessary for
them to clear our road to avoid being crushed to
death by the trampling of our mules, those in and
near the path rose as we possed along, filling the
air around us like one continued swarm of bees;
3 p
474 CAPTAIN rilet's narrative.
whilst thousands came in contact with our faces andi
bodies. In this situation, fearing my eyes would be
injured, I covered my face with a transparent silk
handkerchief, and pushed on my mule as fast as I
could ; we were about two hours in passing this host
of destroyers, which when on the^wing made a sound,
as finely described in Holy Writ, "like the rushing
of horses into battle." The space covered by this
flight extended in length for about eight miles along
the road and three miles in breadth. After they had
fairly alighted, the Moors, each resuming his labour,
left the locusts in the full enjoyment of their repast,
assuring us, that when they had filled themselves,
which would be in the course of that day and the
night, they would move off in a body with the wind,
probably one day's march further, where they would
again repeat their ravages, leaving the remainder
for other successive flights ; but which they hoped,
by the blessing of God, would not destroy the whole
of their crops and all the herbage, as they had done
some years within the last seven, during which space
they had continued to lay waste the country. To
see such fair prospects of crops thus blasted in a
moment, would fill the inhabitants of more refined
countries with feelings of despair, and their fields
would be left untilled ; while the Mohammedan con-
siders it either as a just chastisement from heaven
for his own or his nation's sins, or as directed by that
fatality in which they all believe ; — thus when one
crop is destroyed, if of wheat, they sow the same
ground over again with barley, or plant it with In-
dian corn or peas, so as to have every possible chance
TRAVELS IN MOROCO. 475
for subsisting. These Arabs, while at their labour,
are entirely naked, except a small piece of woollen
cloth about their loins : — they make use of the same
plough and harness as the people of Suse, already
described, but in this part of the country they
plough with a pair of oxen ; — and here let me beg
the reader's indulgence for a few«moments, while I
undertake to give him a description of that wonderful
insect, the destroying locust, that so often lays waste
the fertile plains of Asia and the northern regions
of Africa. I call him the destroying locust of Africa,
because, as far as my memory serves me, he is first
described in Holy Writ as a destroyer in the land
of Egypt.
DESCRIPTION.
The locust of Africa is a winged insect, which're-
sembles both in size and appearance at the first view,
the largest sized grasshopper of America; but on a
close inspection, differs from him very meterially :
the shape of his head and face is similar to that of
a common sheep, being crowned with two long and
tapering protuberances, which turn backwards hke
the horns of a goat. He has, attached to his muzzle,
a pair of smellers or feelers, by the help of which he
feels and gathers up the herbage about him, which
he nips off, making a champing noise like a sheep
when eating, — he has four wings, and the hinder pair
are quite transparent; he has six legs with two claws
fo each foot, which are divided something like the
476 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
hoof of a sheep, but are much larger and pointed:
he is stout about the neck, breast, and body : the
hinder part of which is forked, and armed with a
hard bony substance, by the help of which he can
make a hole in the ground.
The largest African locust is about four inches ia
length, and one j«ich in diameter : he has the most
voracious appetite of any insect in the world, and
devours grass, grain, the leaves of trees, and every
green thing, with indiscriminate and merciless avidi-
ty. They go forth by bands or flights, and each
flight is said to have a king, which directs its move-
ments with great regularity. Locusts can fly only
when their wings are perfectly dry ; and when they
j'ise, they always fly oif before the wind, and fill the
air like an immense cloud of thick smoke : — when
the leader alights upon the ground, all the flight fol-
lows his example as fast as possible. They are at
times so numerous, that they may be said to cover
the whole face of the country ; then they devour
every spear of grass and grain, even eating it into
the ground, dislodging it root and branch, cutting off
all the leaves from the shrubs and trees, and some-
times all the bar'k from tender trees in a whole pro-
vince, and that too in a very short space of time.
The present African locusts are of the same race
of insects that are mentioned in the Bible, as one of
the plagues serit upon the land of Egypt, by the Al-
mighty : they have always been considered in the
countries where thej^ usually commit ravages as a
scourge from Heaven, and as a punishment for the
sins of the people. The locust has been described
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 477
as being produced bj some unknown physical cause,
ditferent from the ordinary mode of animal produc-
tion : this is a mistake : when I was in Mogadore, Mr.
Willshire told me that the locusts were produced by
a very well known and natural cause ; that the fe-
male, a little before the flights disappear for the sea-
son, thrusts her hinder parts into the surface of the
ground up to her wings, first having found a suitable
spot of earth for that purpose : here she forms a cell
in shape like that made by the bee, but from one to
three inches in depth, and one to two inches in diam-
eter. Having made the sides of the cell strong by
means of a glutinous matter, which she has the pow-
er of producing, she deposits her eggs, which are
blackish, and so small, as scarcely to be distinguish-
able with the naked eye : each cell is filled full, and
contains an immense number of eggs : she then seals
it over carefully with the same kind of glutinous mat-
ter of which the inside of the cell is formed, and co-
vering it over with earth, she leaves it to be hatched
out by the heat of the sun in due time, which gene-
rally happens in the month of January: the eggs in
one cell alone produce a host of locusts, amounting
to near a million. I opened and examined several
cells in and near a garden, two miles from Moga-
dore, and was much surprised to see the eggs lie
thick together in one mass, like the spawn of fishes.
I took up some of it on the tip of a sharp-pointed
penknife, and separating and counting the eggs, by
means of a microscope, as accurately as possible, I
enumerated seven hundred and forty-one — admit-
ting that every egg would produce a locust, and
478
that the number contaired in the small portion on
the point of the penknife was the one thousandth
part of the whole mass, (which is a low estimate,)
it proves that a single locust could produce in one
season, even if she iills but one cell, upwards of half
a million of her species. When the locust is hatch-
ed, he crawls out of the earth a little worm, of a
liarht brown colour, and the whole cell of them are
said to hatch about the same time. This host of
worms creep forth from the ground, and commence
their march, all going one course, generally towards
the north or west, devouring every thing green that
comes in their way, and leaving behind them a dis-
mal scene of desolation. These reptiles grow so
rapidly, that within the space of one week they are
prepared for their transformation, when they climb
up a stout spear of grass or a twig, attach their skin
fast to it, and by a sudden eiFort, burst the skin
asunder at its head, and come forth a four-winged
insect, with six legs: they remain a short time in
the sun to dry themselves and their wings before
they attempt flying, which they commence by trying
separately to fly a short distance at a time, and con-
tinue fluttering and skipping like grasshoppers for
two or three days; next they set oflf in a body on
the wing, and fly from five miles to one hundred,
without stopping, i ist as the country seems to please
their taste, and they then go on as I have before
described.
Dry warm seasons are favourable to the breeding
of locusts, and a very wet cold one is sure to de-
stroy them in the empire of Morocco until the
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 479
lights come again from other parts. I do not know
precisely the months in which the female locust
makes her deposit of eggs, only that it is in the lat-
ter part of the summer, or first of the fall months.
The old locusts having done their share of mis-
chief, are either driven off by the winds into the sea,
or die a natural death; thus making room for a
new and more hungry swarm. When all have dis-
appeared in the Moorish empire, a few flights are
seen to come from the borders of the desart, or
from the coasts of Egypt, which again lay waste the
whole country, until they are in their turn destroy-
ed by frequent rains and cold damps, or strong gales
from the land, which sweep them into the ocean. It
is said at Mogadore, and believed by the Moors,
Christians, and Jews, that the Bereberies inhabiting
the Atlas mountains, have the power to destroy
every flight of locusts that comes from the south
and from the east, and thus ward off this dreadful
scounre from all the countries north and west of this
stupendous ridge, merely by building; large fires on
those parts of the ridge over which the locusts are
known always to pass, and in the season when they
are likely to appear, which is at a definite period
within a certain number of days, in almost every
year. The Atlas being high, and the peaks covered
with snow, these insects become chilled in passing
over them, when seeing the fires, they are attracted
by the glare, and plunge into the flames. I do not
know what degree of credit ought to be attached lo
this opinion, but it is certain that the Moorish Sultan
used to pay a considerable sum of money yearly t©
480 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
certain inhabitants of the sides of the Atlas i»
order to keep the locusts out of his dominions. The
Moors and Jews further affirm, that during the tiVrie
in which the Sultan paid the aforesaid yearly stipend
punctually, not a locust was to be seen in his do-
minions north and west of the Atlas, but that about
six years ago the emperor refused to pay the stipu-
lated sum, because no locusts troubled his country,
and he thought he had been imposed upon ; and it
so happened that the very same year the locusts
again made their appearance, and have continued to
lay waste the country ever since.
Locusts are esteemed very good food by the
Moors, Arabs, and Jews, in Barbary, who catch
large numbers of them in their season, and throw
them, while jumping alive, into a pan of boiling
Argon oil: — here they hiss. and fry until their wings
are burned off, and their bodies are sufficiently cook-
ed, when they are poured out and eaten. I have
seen many thousands cooked in this manner, and
have had the curiosity to taste them: they resemble
in consistence and flavour, the yolks of hard boiled
hens' eggs. After my arrival at Tangier, on con-
versing with our Consul General, Mr. Simpson, re-
specting the locusts, he confirmed the substance of
what I had before heard and observed myself in
Barbary concerning them. This ravenous insect had
actually caused a famine in that part of the country,
so that Mr. Simpson and the other Christian Consuls
at Tangier were obliged to send to Gibraltar, and
buy American flour for the ordinary consumption of
their families; inferior American flour was then
• TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 481
gelling at Tangier for fifteen dollars per barrel,
although before the scarcity occasioned by the
locusts, the finest Barbary wheat used to be sold for
one dollar and a half per barrel.
Mr. Simpson further stat^, that in the year 1814,
(to the best of my recollection as to the time) being
with his family at his house on Mount Washington,
near Cape Spartel, and where the locusts covered the
whole face of the ground at night, when he arose the
next morning, he could not perceive a single one,
and observed to his lady, that all the locusts which
had remained with them for a long time, and de-
stroyed most of the herbage about the country, had
disappeared ; he wondered at first what had become
of them ; but after the fog in the strait was dis-
sipated, looking at a vessel through his glass, that,
was passing, out, he observed that the whole surface
of the water was covered with something that ap-
peared like a reddish scum, and on reflection, it
struck him, that the locusts had attempted at night
to migrate across the straits into Spain, flying
before the wind, which was fair, and blowing from
the southward; but that they were either lost in the
fog, or checked on their passage by contrary Avinds,
(which generally prevail in the straits at night,
particularly in the summer time,) in the middle of
the strait ; and were thus forced by fatigue and
the humidity of the atmosphere, to settle" upon the
surface of the water, from whence they could not
rise, and were, consequently, all drowned. That
two days afterwards, a vessel arrived at Tangier
from Gibraltar, the captain of which confirmed hi«-
3<i
482 CAPTAIxV RILEY'S KARRATIVfi.
conjecture, by assuring him that vast numbers of
dead locusts had been driven ashore on the rock of
Gibraltar, and along the coast of Spain, from
Algeciras to Tariffa^ a distance of nearly twenty
miles, and that there v^tfere still great numbers of
their carcasses floating in the straits, near the
Spanish shore. I was also informed, that several
years ago, nearly all the locusts in the empire,
which were at that time very numerous, and had
laid waste the country, were carried off in one night,
and drovt^ned in the Atlantic ocean; that their dead
carcasses a few days afterwards were driven by
winds and currents on shore, all along the western
coast, extending from near Cape Spartel to beyond
Mogadore, forming, in man} places, immense piles
on the sand beach : that the stench arising from
their remains was intolerable, and was supposed to
have produced the plague which broke out about
that time in various parts of the Moorish dominions.
I have thus faithfully embodied what information I
could obtain regarding the locust, from living au-
thority, which I deem indubitable, and to which I
have added such facts and circumstances as fell
under my own observation, unassisted by books ; and
I trust the whole will be found essentially correct.
As I do not profess to be a naturalist, it cannot be
expected that I should undertake to give a descrip-
tion of his interior formation, &c. — but for a side
view of this famous and formidable animal, see plate
No. 9. To return to my Journal :
Leaving this beautiful valley, embellished and en-
riched by many thousands of fig and other fruit
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 483
trees, as well as many clumps of grape vines that
seem to thrive exceedingly well, we ascended the
hill on our right, and about dark approached a
douhar or encampment that Avas surrounded by a
stone wall : the chief of the douhar was not willing-
to let us enter within the walls, but our soldier tell-
ing him that I was the Sultan's doctor, and must go
in, he reluctantly consented, telling my guard, how-
ever, we must take care of our baggage ourselves,
as the whole of the people in the douhar, both men
and women, were ill of the venereal disease. They
offered us milk and eggs, and asked my advice in
regard to their disorder; I told them, I had no
medicine with me — I, however, recommended a milk
or light diet, and a drink to be made by steeping a
certain root, having an affinity, in appearance, to
sarsaparilla, that is common in this part of the coun-
try; and to let all drink plentifully of this decoc-
tion, for ten weeks, not doubting but it would prove
beneficial. We slept here without molestation
started early on the morning of the 9th, and passed,
in the course of the day, many douhars of tents in
the open fields; many orchards regularly planted,
consisting of several hundred fig-trees, fenced in
with stone walls very thick, and from five to six feet
in height : the land on both sides of the path was
principally cultivated. Zagury had despatched our
guide on to Azamore before us, to a Jew in that
town, in order to engage him to prepare some pro-
visions against our arrival ; for they are so supersti-
tious, that they would not even eat bread that had
been baked in any other but a Jew's oven, and re«
i*d4: CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
ceived the priest's blessing, for which, of course, h^
has his tithe. Proceeding forward at about ten
A. M. we saw at some distance on our left, what
David and Elio told me was the famous old town of
Mazao^an : stopping here to take refreshment, a large
number of Arab women came from some neighbour-
ing douhars, to stare at me and my dress.: some of
them were quite young, and Zagury began to rally
them in a very coarse and rude manner, asking them
if they loved Christians, &;c. upon which one very
old woman said to him, "there is Mazagan; (point-
ing towards the distant town;) when that place
was taken from the Christians, I helped to cut olF
one of their heads, and yet I love Christians better
than the mean, cheating, infidel Jews." Zagury, not
relishing this relort, dropped the conversation.
Riding on briskly, we arrived at Azamore about
3 o'clock, P. M. On pur approach, our Jews were
obliged to dismount, and walk for about two miles
to pass a saint house, which the Moors hold in high
veneration : this was the fiftieth saint-house I had
seen since I left Swearah. Azamore is a town
strongly walled in; it lies on the left bank of the
j-iver Ormorbear, one league from its mouth ; it is
built in the form of an irregular quadrangle, and is
about one mile in circumference : the river washes
its eastern wall, while the other sides are defended
by a deep ditch. We did not enter it, but from its
appearance, it is an old-fashioned Portuguese town,
badly built, and within and about the walls, very
dirty. This stream was the only one I had yet
passed on this continent, that deserved the name of
TRAVELS IN MOROfXC 18 J
river : it has a dangerous bar at its mouth, which is
said to be navigable only for vessels drawing six feet
water at high tides and in smooth weather — these
may come alongside the walls of Azamore, where
there is a very neat water-port for the reception of
their cargoes, but it has now no external commerce
"whatever: there are, however, some large manufac-
tories of Morocco leather and coarse earthenware
in the suburbs outside the walls. We passed this
river, which is here about two hundred yards wide,
in a good boat,- built after the Spanish manner,
large and well-managed by expert hands. We
found here a good shad-fishery : there were ten
large nets, and about one hundred and fifty stout
Moors employed in this business at that time, and in
the proper season, which is from the first of Janua-
ry to April; they catch large quantities of shad,
which are much esteemed in this country, and are
sold at the landing for about six cents a piece : they
•are carried from hence to Fez, Mequinez, Morocco.
Mogadore, and all the adjoining country. We re-
mained on the bank of this river until dark, waiting
for our provisions, which came at last, and we pitch-
ed our tent under three date trees, about one mile
from the bank. We had bought some shad, which,
when roasted, afforded us an excellent supper, as
they were very fat and delicious.
On the 10th, at two o'clock in the morning, we
started from this place, and owing to the darkness,
lost our path, and wandered about for two hours
before it was found ; we rode all the day through a
fine even country, passing many douhars, and tra-
486 CAPTAIN tllLEl'S NARRATIVE.
veiling as usual; and at night pitched our tent in
the midst of one of the douhars, which I shall here
describe, (having made mention of them frequently
before.) and this description will answer for the
whole of them, with little variation. On our ap-
proach to within fifty yards, we halted, and were
soon met by the chief, for they all have one head
man, whom they honour by the title of Sheick : he
welcomed us in very handsome terms ; invited us to
advance ; pointed out a place which was the safest
within the douhar for our tent; and furnished us
with milk and eggs gratis, while the Moors that ac-
companied ns were plentifully regaled with bread,
Avater, and coos-coo-soo. This douhar was com-
posed of one hundred and fifty-four tents, pitched in
the form of a hollow square; the tents being placed
about fifty yards apart ; an equal number occupying
each side, and at equal distances, all made of very
coarse strong woollen cloth, of the same colour, and
set up in the same manner as those on the desart.
and all facino- inward.
Before each tent, and at a very short distance from
it, all the camels, cattle, goats, and asses, are made
to lie down, where they are taught to remain until
they are roused up to be milked in the morning, when
the shepherds or herdsmen drive them out into the
open country to feed, and return with them again at
night-fall. They milk the mares, camels, cows,
asses, goats, and sheep; and in order to effect this
with the two last mentioned animals, which are very
tame, they divide the sheep and goats into two rows,
facing each other: as soon as they approach so as to
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 487
interlock their necks, they are caught by two ropes
which are ready strung for the purpose, and by this
means they are kept close together, while the women
and ffirls gro behind and milk them between their
hind legs; the lambs having been previously tied
or secured in a similar way. A good ewe will j'ield
a pint of milk in a morning, and a goat more : sheep's
milk is reckoned the richest by the natives, but I
preferred that of the goat or camel to either of the
others, though asses' and mare's milk is very rich and
good. They make butter by putting the new milk
into a goat skin, the hair on the inside; the butter is
of course a little hairy, but they can pick it clean
with their fingers, and they generally have white
haired goat skins for churns. The Arabs who
inhabit exclusively these douhars are extremely
hospitable, and not only furnish the traveller with the
best they have to eat and drink, but also set a watch
over his tent and baggage, which they strictly take
care of: the Sheicks themselves are responsible for
every article that may be missing in the morning,
and which if not immediately found, they pay the
strangerhis own price for it in money without hesita-
tion. Thus the Moorish and Arab travellers can
pass from one end of the empire to the other withou^
expense, and at their leisure, and transact their
commercial business in a cheap way, only bu}ing
the barley for their beasts which carry their burdens
when they travel on mules or horses, being obhged
to feed them on barley and straw; but when they
use camels, which is by far the most common method,
I these hardy beasts live on the herbage and shrub-
188 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
bery which they nip passing along the road, taking a
bite now and then as they continue walking, and
as soon as they stop, their two fore legs are tied
within a foot of each other, and they are turned out
to feed. Without this precaution, the camel is such
a wandering creature, not unlike his Arab master in
that respect, that be the herbage ever so good and
plentiful where he is turned out, he is continually
restless, and keeps moving on, so that in the course
of an hour or two he will stray many miles from the
place where he was first turned loose,
On the 11th, at daybreak, we left this douhar,
and proceeded over a smooth beautiful plain e\ery
where covered with fields of grain or grass and
flowering shrubs, with numerous herds of cattle,
camels, asses, and flocks of sheep and goats; while
the road or rather foot-path (for such they all are in
this country) was covered with loaded camels travel-
ling each way to and from Darlbeda, and at about
8 o'clock A. M. we reached that city. Darlbeda is a
walled town of about two miles in circumference,
situated at the bottom of a broad bay; its port is
tolerably good for landing cargoes, although the
bay where vessels lie is very rocky, and can only be
approached with safety in the summer months and
in mild weather. Large quantities of wheat were
formerly shipped at this port for Spain and Portugal.
I peeped into it for a few minutes; it is much on the
decay : the houses, which are built chiefly of stone
and clay, as well as the walls, are falling down in
every direction, and even the gateway is in a tottering-
condition: it is a very dirty place: the houses are
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 489
i'rora one to three stories high, and the streets very
narrow: there still remains an open aqueduct, that
used to convey water for several miles into this town;
it is in good repair, being built of stone and lime; the
water runs in it to within two hundred yards of the
walls, where it has been out olF for the convenience
of roads : thus the destructive hands of the Moors
are employed in marring and spoiling even their own
town, which must soon become no better than a
heap of ruins.
We passed Daribeda, and came to Afidallah, a town
built by Sidi Mohammed : this town is enclosed by
a tolerable mud and stone wall, and is situated about
one mile from the sea. The whole coast from Dari-
beda, to far beyond Afidallah, is lined with huge
heaps of beach sand, hove up by the almost constant
trade winds, blowing direct on shore.
Afidallah stands on a beautiful plain : it was built
for the purpose of receiving and storing the large
quantities of wheat and barley that usually grew
near its site; and its harbour, only one mile distant
from it, is sheltered by a long and narrow island,
within which vessels of a small size can anchor,
and be tolerably safe. This is said, by Mohammed,
one of our muleteers, and an old sailor, to be by far
the safest open harbour in the empire during the
winter months ; but the landing is bad, and can only
be elfocted in light winds and good weather. Large
quantities of wheat, barley, big acorns, fruit, &c.
were shipped from Afidallah during the reign of Sidi
Mohammed, and a part of the present reign, but Mu-
ley Soliman, the present Sultan, has of late become
3 R
490 CAPTAIN RILEY's NARRATIVE.
SO bigoted, that he thinks, or pretends it is a sin
for his subjects to trade with the Christians ; he has,
therefore, forbid the exportation of almost all the
articles of commerce, and rendered, by this means,
his people poor ; ruined most of his towns, and in-
volved himself in many broils with his subjects,
while he is straining every nerve to take away the
little remains of their property, in contributions and
presents extorted from them by rapacious officers
appointed for the purpose. The goods for shipping
were carried from Afidallah on camels, across the
sand-hills that shelter the town from the violent sea-
gales. This place is about six hundred yards
square, flanked by four square forts joined to each
corner, and so constructed, as to be able to rake the
whole length of the wall on the outside, with cannon
and musketry.
We passed on, and pitched our tent at night
within the walls of an old town called Sebiiah;
there is no house standing in it, except a part of a
large mosque, and a tall well-built tower, though it
was once a considerable place. Within these walls,
in one corner, was a large garden, well stocked with
vegetables, and about a hundred tents were pitched,
as if in the open field ; so we pitched our tent near
the walls of the mosque. There were several
women here that wanted medicines, and though I
had none to give them, yet my mere advice, which
was thought important, procured milk and eggs
sufficient for our suppers. Soon after sunset, all
the flocks and cattle belonging to the inhabitants
were driven within the walls, and disposed of as in
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 4^1
the common douhars, when the stout gate was shut
and strongly barred. Many travellers arrived in
the evening, and wished to enter, but found no ad-
mittance, and they took up their lodgings outside of
the walls.
January the 12th, at daylight, our soldier had the
gate opened, and we went forward ; there were out-
side of the gate several large droves of camels with
their owners, which had put up there in the night —
they were principally loaded with sacks of salt or
barley, and going towards Rabat. We rode on
fast, and passed three considerable streams, which
the Moors call rivers, and say they are not forda-
ble in the rainy season ; but we got over without
difficulty, being then only brooks : the country was
level and well cultivated, and we passed innumera-
ble droves of light and loaded camels, mules, and
asses.
At about eight o'clock A. M. we saw a high
tower east of us, which stands at the head of the
aqueduct that conveys water to Rabat; and at about
three P. M. we came to the outer wall of that city,
'which stands half a mile from the main wall, and
encloses a great number of fine gardens of fruit
and vegetables, besides some wheat fields; it extendi
from the palace (which is spacious, and situated on
the left upon the bank of the sea between the outer
and main walls) round to the river eastward of the
city: here the Jews were obliged to dismount before
they could enter the town, and there I left them,
and proceeded with my guard, followed by my mu-
leteer ittto the city. My friend, Mr. Willshire, ha4
492 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
given me an introductory letter to Mr. Abouderhani,
the English Vice Consul at Rabat, and we proceed-
ed directly to his house, which is situated in the
principal town. On my arrival, I was received by
that gentleman with every mark of politeness and
respect I could wish : he furnished me with a room
and every thing I needed for my comfort. The
next day being the Jews' Sabbath, I had time to visit
different parts of the city, and the Jews' town or
Millah.
Rabat is situated at the mouth of the river Bere-
greb — on its left bank, within a mile of the sea, it
is defended on the south by a double wall and some
batteries of cannon ; on the west, facing the sea, by
a \erj strong fortress, and along the river on the
north, by very high and steep cHffs, a wall, and a
number of strong batteries. I should compute the
circumference of the outer walls at six miles, but the
inner one not more than three.
The city is situated on uneven ground ; is very
well built for a Moorish town, though the streets
are narrow, crooked and dirty ; yet the houses in
general are in good repair, and two stories high, built
of stone and lime mortar, and flat roofed, with an
inner court; a few windows next the streets, which
are only air holes, and secured with wooden shutters
and grates, without glass. There are in this city
ten mosques of different heights and shapes: it is the
largest sea-port town in the Moorish dominions,
though at present the bar at the river's mouths is so
heaped up with sand, as only to admit of vessels
drawing six feet water, and yet the tide rises within
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 493
it about ten feet, and runs very rapidly. The Mil-
lah or Jew's town Is walled in separately, to prevent
the Jews from mixing with and defiling the Moors,
and that they may more easily be kept in subjection
with the aid of the bastinado. This Millah has been
built only about six years; has but one gate, which
is guarded and kept by Moors ; and there are some
very good houses in it. It is said to contain eight
thousand Jews, who are (for the most part) very
poor, miserable, and depraved, and live in the most
degraded condition : they worship in twelve rooms
called synagogues, and I was told that nearly one
half of the male inhabitants were priests.
Rabat is very well peopled : the whole number of
its inhabitants is computed by Mr. Abouderham to
exceed sixty thousand. Many of the Moors here are
rich, and live in great luxury, keeping large serag-
lios of women, and having beautiful gardens. Vast
quantities of haicks, and other woollen and cotton
cloths, are here fabricated, and great quantities of
sole and Morocco leather, and coarse earthenware,
such as pots, bowls, jars, &;c. are also manufactured
in this city. It carries on a brisk inland trade, and
the Moorish inhabitants seem to be more civilized
than in any other town I passed through. Here is
the principal navy-yard of the Emperor, where his
ships are built ; for the Moors have none for com-
merce. Here was one new frigate lying by the
walls, partly fitted ; she appeared to be about five
hundred tons burden ; was pierced for 32 guns, arid
the Moors said she would be ready to go round to
La Resell, where their ships of war are fitted out, in
194 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE,
two or three months ; to get them over the bar at the
mouth of the river, they are obhged to go out per-
fectly hght ; to buoy them up as much as possible,
and lay them sideways on the bar, at high tide, and
in mild weather, where they are steadied by means
of cables and anchors, until the yielding sand is wash-
ed away, and they are forced over by the power oi
the ebb tide, which runs like a mill-race.
Rabat is supplied with water by a considerable
stream led into the city by means of an old fashioned
aqueduct from the south, that is four or five leagues
in length : the aqueduct was either built or thorough-
ly repaired by the old and liberal Emperor, Sidi Mo-
hammed. I wished to visit the town of Sallee, so fa-
mous in history for its piracies on the ocean, situated
on the other side of the river, and directly opposite
Rabat, but I was dissuaded from making the attempt,
by Mr. Abouderham and my guide, who said that
the whole people of Sallee still retained their ancient
pride, prejudices, and natural ferocity : that no Chris-
tian, or even ai Barbary Jew in a Christian dress,
could enter their walls if he was ever so well guard-
ed by imperial soldiers, without being in imminent
danger of losing his life. Mr. Abouderham said he
had visited it twice ; that it contained about forty
thousand fierce and haughty Moors, and four thou-
sand miserable Jews.
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 495
CHAP. XXXIV.
Description of a horrid show of two venomous serpents
— sets out from Rabat — Of Sallee, Marmora^ La-
resch — Spanish Missionaries — Moorish JVavy — j^r-
rival at Tangier.
On Sunday, the 14th Januafj, 1816, being anxious
to get forward on my journey, I went into the Jews'
town to make the necessary preparations ; for I in-
tended to proceed without my Jew's company, whom
I had found out to be deceitful and dishonest, having
already manoeuvred me out of most of my money.
The soldier and muleteer went along with me : this
muleteer, as I before observed, had been a sailor;
had visited Spain and Portugal, and spoke the Spa-
nish lan^uacre so that I could understand him ; his
name was Mohammed. Soon after our entrance in-
to the Mill ah, we saw a concourse of people, consist-
ing of Moors and Jews, crowding about one of the
single-storied houses, which stood alone. Going
near it, I inquired the cause of this assemblage, and
was informed that a couple of that kind of Moors,
called Serpent Eaters, were about to amuse the
Moors and Jews with a sight of two of the most ve-
nomous serpents on earth; together with their man-
ner of attacking the human species : and that each
one who chose to see the exhibition through the win-
dows, (for it was to take place in that room,) must
pa) half a dollar. Being desirous of having a look,
I offered/a dollar for a station at a window; but all
496 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
the windows were already occupied, and the places
paid for. Mj guard, observing my disappointment,
asked me if 1 wished for a birth ? which I answered
by putting two dollars in his hand : whereupon he
called out to the Jews at one of the windows to clear
a place for el Tibib del Sultan, (the Sultan's doctor).
Those, however, who had paid their money, not
liking to lose their places, were unwilling to move:
upon which my guard* brushed them away with his
big cane without ceremony ; giving me a whole win-
dow to myself, saying he would keep guard. I
looked into the room without interruption : it was
about twenty feet long, and fifteen feet broad, paved
with tiles, and plastered within. These had also
been secured by an additional grating made of wire,
in such a manner as to render it impossible for the
serpents to escape from the room : it had but one
door, and that had a hole cut through it, six or eight
inches square; this hole was also secured by a
grating. In the room stood two men who appeared
to be Arabs, with long bushy hair and beards ; and I
was told they were a particular race of men that
could charm serpents. A wooden box, about four
feet long and two feet wide, was placed near, the
door, with a string fastened to a slide at one end of
it : this string went through a hole in the door. The
two serpent-eaters were dressed in haicks only, and
those very small ones. After they had gone through
with their religious ceremonies most devoutly, they
appeared to take an eternal farewell of each other :
this done, one of them retired from the room, and
shut the door tight after him. The Ar-ab within
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO, 497
seemed to be in dreadful distress — I could observe
his heart throb and his bosom heave most violently;
and he cried out very loudly, " Allah houakibar !"
three times, which is, as I understand it, " God,
have mercy on me !" The Arab was at the farthest
end of the room: at that instant the cage was open-
ed, and a serpent crept out slowly ; he was about
four feet long, and eight inches in circumference ;
his colours were the most beautiful in nature — being
bright, and variegated with a deep yellow, a purple,
a cream colour, black and brown spotted, &;c. As
soon as he saw the Arab in the room, his eyes,
which were small, and green, kindled as with fire :
he erected himself in a second, his head two feet
high, and, darting on the defenceless Arab, seized
him between the folds of his haick, just above his
right hip bone, hissing most horribly: the Arab
gave a horrid shriek, when another serpent came
out of the cage. This last, was black, very shining,
and appeared to be seven or eight feet long, but not
more than two inches in diameter: as soon as he
had cleared the cage, he cast his red fiery eyes on
his intended victim,thrustout his forked tongue, threw
himself into a round coil, erected his head^ which was
in the centre of the coil, three feet from the floor,
flattening out the skin above his head and eyes in
the form and nearly of the size of a human heart ;
and, springing like lightning on the Arab, struck its
fangs into his neck, near the jugular vein, while his
tail and body flew round his neck and arms in two or
three folds. The Arab set up the most hideous and
piteous yelling, foamed and frothed at the mouth,
3 s
498 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
grasping the folds of the serpent, whieh were round
his arms, with his right hand, and seemed to be in the
greatest agony — striving to tear the reptile from
around his neck, while with his left he seized hold
of it near its head, but could not break its
hold : by this time, the other had twined itself
around his legs, and kept biting all around the other
parts of his body, making apparently deep incisions:
the blood issuing from every wound, both in his
neck and body, streamed all over his haick and
skin. My blood was chilled in my veins with hor-
ror at this sight, and it was with difficulty my legs
would support my frame. Notwithstanding the
Arab's greatest exertions to tear away the serpents
vrith his hands, they twined themselves still tighter;
stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, where
he continued for a moment, as if in the most incon-
ceivable agony, rolling over, and covering every part
of his body with his own blood and froth, until he
ceased to move, and appeared to have expired. In
his last struggle, he had wounded the black serpent
with his teeth, as it was striving, as it were, to force
its head into his mouth; which wound seemed to
increase its rage. At this instant, I heard the shrill
sound of a whistle ; and looking towards the door,
saw the other Arab applying a call to his mouth :
the serpents listened to the music; their fury seem-
ed to forsake them by degrees ; they disengaged
themselves leisurely from the apparently lifeless
carcass ; and creeping towards the cage, they soon
entered it, and were immediately fastened in.' The
door of the apartment was now opened, and he
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 499
without, ran to assist his companion : he had a phial
of blackish liquor in one hand, and an iron chisel in
the other: finding the teeth of his companion set,
he thrust in the chisel, pried them open, and then
poured a little of the liquor into his mouth; and
holding the lips together, applied his mouth to the
dead man's nose, and filled his lungs with air: he
next anointed his numerous wounds with a little of
the same liquid ; and yet no sign of life appeared.
I thought he was dead in earnest; his neck and
veins were exceedingly swollen ; when his comrade,
taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought it
out into the open air, and continued the operation of
blowing for several minutes, before a sign of life ap-
peared : at length he gasped, and after a time reco-
vered so far as to be able to speak. The swellings
on his neck, body, and legs, gradually subsided, as
they continued washing the wounds with clear cold
water and a sponge, and applying the black liquor
occasionally: a clean haick was wrapped about
him, but his strength seemed so far exhausted, that
he could not support himself standing ; so his com-
rade laid him on the ground by a wall, where he
sunk into a sleep. This exhibition lasted for about
a quarter of an hour from the time the serpents
were let loose, until they were called off, and it was
more than an hour from that time before he could
speak. I thought that I could discover that the
poisonous fangs had been pulled out of these formi-
dable serpents' jaws, and mentioned that circum-
stance to the showman, who said that they had in-
deed been extracted; and when I wished to kno^?
500 CAPTAIN RILEY^S NARRATIVE.
how swellings on his neck and other parts could be
assumed, he assured me, that though their deadly
fangs were out, yet that the poisonous quality of
their breath and spittle would cause the death of
those they attack : that after a bite from either of
these serpents, no man could exist longer than fifteen
minutes, and that there was no remedy for any but
those who were endowed by the Almighty with
power to charm and to nianage them, and that he
and his associate were of that favoured number.
The Moors and Arabs call the thick and beautiful
serpent El Effah^ and the long black and heart-
headed one El Buschfak. I afterwards saw engra-
yings of these two serpents in Jackson's Morocco,,
which are very correct resemblances : they are said
to be very numerous on and about the south foot of
the Atlas mountains, and border of the desart,
where these were caught when young, and where
they often attack and destroy both men and beasts.
The Eifah's bite is said to be incurable, and its poi-
son so subtile as to cause a man's death in fifteen
minutes. When I saw the Effah, it brought to my
mind the story of the fiery serpents that bit the
children of Israel in the desarts of Arabia, near
Mount Hor, as recorded in the 21st chapter of the
Book of Numbers ; merely because the Effah re-
sembled, in appearance, a brazen serpent : the two
serpent-eaters said, they came from Egypt, about
three years ago.
This exhibition of serpents, (the first I avos told
of the kind that had ever taken place at Rabat,) and
our preparations, detain xl us the whole day; how-
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 501
ever I had made all the necessary arrangements,
got the tent, provisions, &c. in order to be ready
for a start the next morning, and on January the
15th, very early, I took my leave of Mr. Abouder-
ham, who, though a Jew, was nevertheless a man of
feeling, and much of a gentleman : he is a native of
Leghorn, had received a good education, and spoke
the French language fluently.
We crossed the river, which is here about half a
mile wide, and proceeded towards the walls of
Sallee: the river has entirely left the Sallee side,
which is now filled up with sand and mud, leaving
the town nearly a mile from the water : there were
still to be seen some remains of its ancient docks,
and wrecks of vessels. I looked attentively at Sal-
lee, in passing its walls, which are high and strong,
built of stone, and well cemented ; they had been
repaired lately, and are flanked by many circular
and square towers, on which about two hundred
pieces of cannon are still mounted, of all calibers :
and it appeared that it must have formerly been
mounted with several hundred pieces more. Near
its walls, on the east, north, and west sides, are
beautiful gardens that appear to be extremely fer-
tile, well laid out, and cultivated : great numbers of
orange, lemon, and sweet lemon trees, were bend-
ing under their loads of rich yellow fruit : hundreds
of fig, pomegranate, almond, and other fruit-trees,
were now leafless, but budding forth, and thus pro-
mising abundance in their season. Many of the
gardens are of great extent, and planted with the
rotton-tree, which is small, and produces cotton infe^^
302 CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
rior to the American, called Georgia Upland, and
only in small quantities.
As we proceeded on our road, we came to the
aqueduct which supplies Sallee with fresh water;
this aqueduct serves as an outer wall to the city on
the north; is nearly a mile from it, and about thirty
feet high where we passed through it : here are
three large arches resembling gateways, and marks
are still to be seen, where gates were once hung :
the wall is eight or ten feet in thickness, and ap-
pears to be about four miles in length. The canal
for conducting the water is near the top, but unco-
vered : this aqueduct is said to have been built by
the Romans ; it is formed of large hewn stones, and
is extremely solid.
We travelled on through a fine champaign coun-
try, every where cultivated, until two P. M. when
we saw on our left, and passed a lake of fresh water,
about two miles in length, and half a mile in
breadth : this was the first lake, or indeed pond, I
had ever seen in this country; and soon afterwards
we arrived on the bank of the river Mediah. On
the left bank of this river, near its mouth, stands,
though mostly in ruins, the ancient Portuguese town
and fortress of J\Iamora ; the fortress is situated on
a high hill that overlooks the surrounding country,
commands the ruins of the'lown, and is now garri-
soned by about three hundred black troops. The
town was built close along the brink of the river,
and its northern wall was washed by every tide ;
and though very old, has not yet sustained much in-
jury. The river enters the sea over a bar in a
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 503
iN. W. direction : the lower wall has an excellent
circular battery, built of large hewn-stone, and was
calculated for mounting thirty heavy guns for the
defence of the harbour; though now dismantled.
This town wall is about half a mile in length along
the river, and the ruins two hundred yards in breadth,
and the place was once very strongly walled in on
the land side, but this wall is now in ruins: not a
soul inhabits this toAvn at present. Here some of
my former opinions were confirmed; for it is certain
that the sea has receded from this coast : the evident
marks of the water high on this wall, and on the
point of land near which the town stands, that must
from appearances have been worn in by the dashing
of the sea, together with the situation of the present
bar, prove to an observer, without any possibility of
doubt, that the ocean has receded since this place
was built, for more than a mile distance, and that
its perpendicular height has decreased at least fifteen
feet since that period. I do not pretend to account
for this fact, but leave it to be explained by philoso-
phers.
We were to cross this river in a good boat that
took over fifteen camels with their loads at a trip ;
but there were on the bank, waiting for their turns
to cross, at least five hundred loaded camels, beside?
mules and asses, chiefly with burdens of wheat and
barley going on to Tangier and Tetuan, where all
kinds of bread stuffs were said to be very scarce and
dear. I told my soldier that it was necessary to
inform the boatman that as I was the emperor*
surgeon, and himself an Alcayd, that we could not
504
wait, but must pass over immediately, for the wind
blew fiesli from the S. W. and they had but one boat,
which could not make above six trips in a day ; and
it would not be our turn, from the then appearances,
in less than a week : this, with an offer of two dol-
lars to the boatman, had the desired effect, and we
were ferried over with the second boat-load, though
not without much opposition and dispute between
my guard and those who were waiting before us,
and which was only settled by the interference of
the black garrison ; for my guide had the address to
persuade them that he was indeed an Alcayd, and I
the Sultan's doctor. After crossing the river, we
mounted the sand hills, and at 10 P. M. pitched our
tent in the midst of a douhar, where we got some
milk and eggs for our money.
Tuesday, the 1 6th, we started very early : it had
rained very hard with heavy squalls of wind most
part of the preceding night, but my tent being sound,
kept off the storm: it was now clear and serene;
nearlv the whole face of the ground was covered
with violet and pink coloured flowers, not more than
an inch or two in height, which seemed to have
sprung up during the night, and as the sun exhaled
the dews from around them, the fresh air of the
morning was filled with the most delightful fragrance.
The country on our right was a low morass, partly
covered with water, which soon grew into a lake of
considerable breadth. We travelled, during the
whole day, along its left margin : its surface was
spotted over with innumerable wild ducks and other
aquatic birds, which some of the inhabitants were
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. S06
ghooling at. In lieu of boats they use a kind of
catamaran^ wliieh is made by lashing three small
palm tree logs together by means of cords made of the
bark of this useful tree; they have a crotched stick
set up near one end of their float for a rest to their
guns, and instead of oars, use long poles to force it
along: when the gunner gets on his raft, he leaves
his haick behind him for fear of wetting it, and shoves
out entirely naked: their guns are very long and
clumsy, with Moorish locks; so that mode of fowling
supplies them with but little game, though the lake
is nearly covered with it. The sight of this catama-
ran brought to my mind thos6 made use of in the
Atlantic ocean along the coast of Brazil, and in some
other parts of the world : the fishermen on those
coasts form a raft by laying three rough logs along-
side of one another, thirty feet in length, and pinning
them together with wooden tree-nails, they then place
two more logs partly on the upper side of the exterior
logs, and pin them on fast ; sharpen the two ends of
all the logs, and the float is finished. To make it
•nanageable, they raise a four-legged bench in it,
near the centre, which serves to steady a mast, on
which they hoist a shoulder-of-mutton saiif and go
out to sea. I have seen them twenty leagues from
land. These boats are perfectly safe, for they can
neither leak, upset, nor founder, and sail remarka-
bly fast, and are steered with a stout oar.
There are several islands in this lake, on one of
which there is a very spacious sanctuary, many fruit-
trees, and several apparently good gardens. Since
leaving Darlbeda, we had seen no high land, only
3t
A06
moderate acclivities, no more than to make it agree-
able to the cultivator. This afternoon we discover-
ed the ridofe of mountains which lie behind Fez and
Miquinez, stretching from the Atlas to the straits
of Gibraltar, and forming one of the far-famed pil-
lars of Hercules. At first they were scarcely visi-
ble in the distant horizon, and appeared like the tops
of high islands, when approaching them on the ocean:
not a tree or bush of any magnitude had we seen
for several days, except the fig, palm, or other fruit-
trees, which were generally planted in clusters or
in gardens near the towns : at night we pitched our
tent at a douhar near the border of the lake.
Wednesday, January the 17th, we started early,
and went down the bank near the sea, to pass round
the former outlet of this lake, which was nov/ dam-
med with sea-sand very high ; and on the sides of
the bank which formed the outlet, stood four saint-
houses, nearly covered up with sand-drifts. Conti-
nuing our journey until about noon, we began to
come among trees of considerable size ; they looked
like a species of oak with a thick shaggy bark, but
are an ever-green : this wood is very brittle, and the
trees produce a kind of acorn of a very large size,
which the Spaniards and Portuguese used to carry
away in large quantities from this country : they
were as highly esteemed as the chesnut, and used
for food by the people of those nations : they also
fed their swine on them.
Passing through a large forest, we came to a small
lake on our right, and, at sunset, approached the
'yvalls of Laresch. Having heard that some Spanish
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 507
friars resided here, I inquired for them, and was
soon conducted to their dwelling, a very good house,
of European construction. The principal friar came
out to meet me ; and, after I had given a short ac-
count of myself in Spanish, said he would lodge me
for charity's sake ; and then conducted me into a to-
lerably well furnished room : and, as he had lived
in Mogadore, asked me many questions concerning
that city, and his old acquaintances there, some of
whom I happened to know. He treated me with some
wine, which he said was of his own manufacture ; it
was none of the best, however: and, at 10 o'clock
at night, an excellent supper of fowls and sallads,
dressed in the Spanish style, was served up. This
Padre, whose name is Juan Tinaones^ told me that
he had lived in Barbary for ten years, four of which
he had spent at Mogadore, three at Rabat, and
three here, secluded from the civilized world ; that
the court of Spain allowed a large premium to those
Padres, or Fathers, of good character, to be approv-
ed of by the Archbishop, who are willing to spend
ten years in Barbary as missionaries, and a stipend
of three thousand dollars a year for the remainder of
their lives. I asked him of what use he could be in
Barbary to the cause of Christianity, since he dare
not even attempt to convert a Moor or an Arab, or
mention the name of the Saviour as one of the God-
head to either, or even to a Jew ^ " None at all,"
said he, " but still we bear the name of missionaries
at home, to convert the heathen ; our allowance of
money is ample : we live well, as you see, (he was
indeed fat and in fine order,) laugh at the folly of
508 CAPTAIN RILEY'S WARRATIVE.
our countrymen, and enjoy the present as well as we
can." (The circumstance of there being two young
and pretty Jewesses in the house, and plenty of good
cheer, did not tend, in any great degree, to discredit
his representation.) " When this ten years expire,*'
continued this pious Padre, " we get leave to return
to our country, where we are received as patterns
of piety, that have rendered vast services to the
Christian world : every respectable house is open to
receive us : our company is much sought after: our
yearly salary of three thousand dollars affords us
many gratifications ; and, for these ten years spent
in such privations and severe gospel labours, we are
allowed absolution for the remainder of our lives,
which, you will readily believe, we try to make as
comfortable as possible." Padre (i. e. father) Ti-
naones wanted to know if I was a Catholic ? To
this I answered in the negative. He said it was a
pity ; and that, unless I came within the pale of the
Church, he feared my precious soul would be for
ever miserable. Our conversation next turned upon
the Jews : he said, " there were about two hundred
miserable families of them in Laresch, who, though
tbey are, in a manner, slaves to the Mohammedans,
will not believe in our holy religion : there were two
Jews who applied to me, and said they were con-
verted to the true Catholic faith, and believed Jesus
Christ to be the Son of God, and the Saviour of man-
kind : they were accordingly baptized as Christians;
yet, as soon as they had obtained a loan of four hun-
dred dollars from me, in small sums, and found they
could get no more, they turned back to Judaism
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 509
again, and left me no means of redress ; which fully
convinced me that their pretended conversion to
Christianity was nothing more than a premeditated
scheme to rob me of my money; and that, whenever
a Jew professes to become a Christian, it is but a
false pretence, and he is actuated entirely by mer-
cenary motives. The Jews," added he, " hold
Christ and his followers in the greatest possible con-
tempt, and pretend to believe that all men, who are
not Israelites, will be doomed, at the day of judg-
ment, to eternal punishment." This night was prin-
cipally spent in conversation with the Padre, on va-
rious subjects.
Thursday, January iSth, I made ready to go on
early, but the tide ran so rapidly at that time, that
it was impossible to pass the river without the risk
of being driven into the sea : so I had time to make
observations.
Leresch is handsomely situated on the left bank of
the river Saboo, j[)ear its entrance into the sea : the
town lies along tiie river's bank, and is half a mile
in length, but very narrow ; it is strongly walled in
all around, and has two gates ; one on the east, and
the other on the south side: — the fortress is on a
hill south of the town, from which it is only separated
by a wall ; it is strongly built, and flanked by eight
towers ; has about one hundred pieces of cannon,
mounted on its battlements, and stands too high to
be battered down by the shipping, even if they could
get into the river : this town is said to have been
built by the Portuguese originally, and only occu-
pies the same space it did formerly, that is to say,
510 . CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE,
about one mile in circumference : it contains about
eighteen thousand inhabitants, i. e. sixteen thousand
Moors, and two thousand Jews, who are all very
poor, as no trade is carried on here by sea or by land :
they are obliged to work hard in the adjacent gar-
dens, and till the impoverished fields in order to gain
a scanty subsistence. This is the only safe port the
Emperor of Morocco has for fitting out his large
cruisers, from whence they can get to sea with their
armament : the river here is very narrow, runs close
along the walls of Laresch, and is very deep oppo-
site the town ; there is said to be on the bar at its
mouth eighteen feet water at high spring tides. The
river within the town is both broad and deep; the
tides run very rapidly both at flood and ebb, so
much so, that we were obliged to wait until it was
nearly spent, before it was deemed safe to cross :
directly in the ferrying place, an old brig lay sunk,
which had been captured under the Russian flag,
and the crew kept as slaves or prisoners for about a
year. The emperor's navy was now lying along-
side of the bank, consisting of one frigate-built ship,
coppered to the bends, of about 700 tons burden,
and mounting 32 guns, apparently 18 pounders, oii
the main deck ; and a brig, called the Swearah,
also coppered; a beautiful vessel, mounting 18 guns,
said to sail, and from her appearance, would sail
very fast: she was built in England, and there fitted
in the best possible manner, and presented to the
emperor by a Jew of Mogadore, named Macnin^ a
most notorious character, but called a very rich
merchant: this Jew has a brother in London, who..
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 511
it is said, has hcrelofore managed to get goods on
credit to very large amounts, and he then sends
them to Mogadore, where his brother hjads back
the ships Avith less, generally, than half the value of
the outward cargo, and thus continues to gull the
English merchants in the true Barbary style : the
principal in London fails — his creditors compound
with him: he begins anew; obtains, from some quar-
ter or another, all the credit he wishes; sends out
the goods to Barbary ; gets no returns : fails again,
and again compromises, and commences the old
business. The emperor, some time ago, attempted
to give this worthy Jew merchant a gentle squeeze,
and seized his goods, houses, cash, and every thing
valuable that his officers could lay their hands on;
upon which Macnin^ to conciliate his majesty, and to
get a part of his ill-gotten property back again,
made him a present of this fine brig, which could
not have cost him much, for " los Inglesis lo pagan'^
(the English pay for it,) is his motto. These two
vessels and the new frigate at Rabat, now constitute
the whole of the emperor's naval force : his maxim
is to be at war with every nation who has not made
a treaty with him, or which has not a Consul General
residing at Tangier to make him the customary pre-
sents on his annual holidays, or pay him trihmte
agreeably to the terms of his treaties. According
to this system, he sends out his cruisers from time to
time, who, if they find a vessel bearing a flag,
whose nation has not made a treaty of peace with
him, they capture her, bring her in as a good prize,
and retain the crew as skives or prisoners. About
512 CAPTAIN RlLEy's iSARRATlVE.
eighfeen months ago, this brig Mogadore, then on a
cruise, captured the Russian brig before mentioned,
and carried her into Laresch : now the emperor of .
Russia had not stipulated for a peace with his Moor-
ish majesty, and had no Consul residing at Tangier,
80 the vessel's cargo was soon disposed of as a
prize, and her officers and crew (ten in number)
were thrown into prison, and frequently compelled
to work on board the vessels of war. After about a
year's captivity in this manner, finding no Christian
power claimed the men, and having no use for them,
the emperor ordered them to be removed to the
prison at Tangier. Padre Tinaones told me these
facts, and said he had done all he could for the
Christians while they were in Laresch prison, and
that their brig had sunk in the ferrying-place for
want of care.
Proceeding on our journey, we soon mounted the
high hills on the right bank of this river, where we
found many huts constructed of stones and mud with
steep roofs thatched with straw after the manner of
the Scotch and Irish hovels: these were the first
buildings of the kind I had seen in Africa, and con-
trary to the Moorish custom, they were quite defence-
less. Continuing our journey through along wood,
ar^f over a hilly, sandy soil, all this day as fast as
possible, we pitched our tent at night in a deep val-
ley, near a small douhar, where we obtained some
milk for our supper. It commenced raining in the
evening, and continued to pour without intermission,
attended with strong gales and squalls, until day-
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 513
light, but as our tent was tight and strong, I experi-
enced from it no material inconvenience.
Friday, the 19th, soon after dayh'ght, it ceased to
rain, and we proceeded on our journey. After passing
many douhars and some huts of the construction
mentioned near Laresch, we entered a deep valley,
the breadth of which was about six miles: the rain
had soaked the soil so much, as to render it almost
impassable, so that the mules sunk into the mud
nearly up to their bellies, and we were obliged to
dismount and wade through it on foot? This valley
contains two small rivers, which are not fordable at
high tides : the little town of Jlzila stands at their
mouthy at about ten miles to our left : the quantity
of rain that had fallen the preceding night had ren-
dered them quite deep even at low water, so that in
attempting to ford one of them on my mule, he was
carried away by the current, and I was forced to
swim; however, I held the mule by the bridle, and
landed safely. My soldier and muleteer seeing I
had got safe across, at length ventured in diiferent
places, and also succeeded in getting over. Our
way now became very mountainous and woody, and
the deep valleys, through which a number of brooks
ran winding along in very serpentine couises, rendered
our path muddy and slippery.
At 3 P. M. we gained the summit of a mountain,
when I saw distinctly the bay of Tangier, part of the
straits of Gibraltar, and, to my great joy, the coast
of Spain ; it was the hospitable and civilized shore of
Europe! The crowd of sensations that rushed upon
my mind at this grateful sight, can be more easily
3u
~jl4 UAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVEo
conceived than described. It brought to my recol-
lection the trials and distresses I had undergpne since
leaving it, as well as mj great dehverances : all these
sensations together so overcame my faculties, and'
agitated me in such a manner, that I had not power
to keep myself steady, and I actually fell from my
mule no less than three times in travelling from
thence to Tangier ; a distance of five or six miles.
As I had not before fallen from my mule during my
whole journey from Mogadore, the soldier who
guarded me, thought it very extraordinary, nor
could I persuade him that I was not too ill to ride :
he, therefore, after helping me on again the third
time, gave his horse to the muleteer, and walked by
my side, holding me on for some time : my head
however became so dizzy from the state of my feelings,
that I was obliged to alight and walk with his assist-
ance for about a mile, until we came near the walls
of Tangier, when he again, at my request, placed me
on my mule.
It was in the dusk of the evening; when we arrived
at the gate, and the soldier having announced me to
the guards, I was conducted directly into the city.
and before the Governor, who ordered me to be
escorted to the American Consul's house, where I
soon arrived, and was received most hospitably bj
James Simpson, Esquire, the American Consul Gene-
ral, who immediately introduced me to his amiable
lady and family, and requested me to consider his
house my home. I accordingly took up my day-
quarters with him, and remained under his truly
hospitable roof during my stay at Tangier. Having
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 515
swade a present to my guard and muleteer for their
attention and fidelity to me on the journey, and
made up a packet for my friend Willshire, I de-
spatched them with his mule, &c. on the 22d of
January, 1816, back for Mogadore.
CHAP. XXXV.
Moorish captives — Of Tangier and Christian Consuls
— passage to Gibraltar, reception there — embarks for
America — observations on Gibraltar — passage in the
ship Rapid — arrival at JVew- York- — visits his family
— goes to Washington City, the seat of government,
and concludes with brief remarks on slavery.
During my stay at Tangier, I was made ac-
quainted with Mr. Green, the English Consul Gene-
ral, a gentleman of talents, high respectability, and
worth; and with Mr. Agrill, the Swedish Consul
General, who had lately arrived there from Sweden.
On his arrival, he found the crew of the before-men-
tioned Russian brig, in Tangier prison, and finding
there was no one to claim or redeem them, and that
they were natives of what once was Swedish Pome-
rania, he purchased them from the Sultan for about
two thousand dollars, which he paid out of his own
private funds, and set them at liberty. I saw and
conversed with the master and most of the crew of
that vessel, who told me they had been imprisoned
at Laresch about a vear ; had been robbed of most
516 (CAPTAIN RILEy's NARRATIVE.
of their clothing, and then brought to Tangier,
"where Mr. Agrill had the charity to redeem them,
though they were captured under the Russian flag,
and did not owe allegiance to the Swedish govern-
ment. Mr. Agrill kept them in his own house,
waiting for a Swedish vessel of war, which was
daily expected, and by which he meant to send them
to their country. The captain mentioned to me
that his vessel was in fact English property covered
by the Russian flag, in order to avoid capture by the
American cruisers. I had before known Mr. Agrill
in St. Petersburg, Russia — then in a pubhc charac-
tei" — he is a man of much real worth.
Tangier bay is said to be the best harbour in the
Moorish dominions ; its bottom is clear, and it might
contain at one time one thousand sail of large vessels,
which would ride in safety, being sheltered from all
but the northerly winds, which have only the rake of
the breadth of the strait, and the holding ground
IS excellent : the best anchorage is in seven and a
half fathoms water ; where the Portuguese flag-staff
(which is the westernmost and near the water) is on
a line with the American flag- statT, which latter is
high, and can always hie known by having its flag
hoisted when an American vessel approaches the bay.
The city of Tangier is built on the west side and
near the mouth of the bay, on the declivity of a hill,
two miles east of Cape Spartel, rising like an amphi-
theatre ; the houses are built of stone, and white-
washed, and the town, when seen from the bay or
strait, has a very handsome appearance ; but it is
badly built ; the houses being generally small, and
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 51 T
but one story high, with flat terraced roofs : the
streets are narrow, crooked, badlj paved, and com-
monly very dirty. There are however some hand-
some buildings in Tangier ; among which are the
Spanish, Swedish, Dutch, French, Danish, and Por-
tuguese consular houses : the old English consular
house has been lately abandoned on account of its
bad construction, but they are now building a very
elegant one, that is said to have already cost the
British government ten thousand pounds sterling,
and will cost nearly as much more by the time it is
finished, and furnished. The American government
has no consular house at Tangier; the consul gene-
ral resides in a house that was formerly attached to
that of the Swedish consulate : it was purchased by
Mr. Simpson, on his own private account for his own
use, and for an office for the use of the United States,
in order to save the expense of house-rent, and the
dwelling part is so small and inconvenient, that when
his own children visit him from abroad, he is forced to
hire lodo^inffs for them in Jews or others houses. I
believe every government having a consul residing
at Tangier, except that of my own country, has
either built or purchased a mansion for the accom-
modation of that officer. Mr. Simpson's eldest son
with his lady were now on a visit to their parents;
and the consul had to hire apartments in a Jew's
house for a few days to accommodate them: he was
also under the necessity of procuring lodgings for
me in a Jew'p house during a few nights of my stay
f\)ere.
518 CAPTAIN RlLEV's NARRATIVE.
Tangier is an irregularly built walled town of
about one mile in circuit, including the fortress which
overlooks and commands it : it is well supplied with
water by a covered aqueduct, and generally well
furnished with provisions : the several batteries are
lined with many pieces of ordnance, among which
are two pieces of long brass cannon of fourteen
inches caliber; they are mounted on carriages, and
stand in a battery near the landing without the city-
gate : these two enormous brass pieces were made
by the Portuguese, and are (judging by the eye)
about eighteen feet in length.
Tangier was taken from the Moors in the year
1441, by the Portuguese, who gave it to King
Charles the II. of England, in a dowry for Catha-
rine of Portugal, his queen. The English kept pos-
session of it for about twenty years ; but, finding it
subject to the continual attacks of the ferocious
Moors, from whom it was with great difficulty de-
fended, they blew up its fine mole or basin, (which
had before rendered it a safe harbour for small ves-
sels,) to low- water-mark, together with some of the
fortifications, and abandoned the place : the mole
has not since been rebuilt. I walked over it at low
water: a great quantity of the large blocks of hewn
stone are now to be seen lying on the solid founda-
tions, which still remain almost entire. On the east
side of, and near the bottom of the bay, are to be
seen the ruins of an old town, which is said to have
been built by the Romans. It must formerly have
been very extensive, from the present appearance of
its ruins, and was watered by a small river that runs
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 519
into the bay near its site. There are several forts
and batteries on the eastern shore of the bay, and
on Cape MaHbat, but they are so badly garrisoned
as not to be formidable to their enemies, if any should
chance to take shelter in the bay during bad wea-
ther ; they have only to keep out of the reach of the
shot from Tanccier. All the Christian consuls near
the Emperor of Morocco reside at Tangier, where
their persons are protected by order of the Sultan.
Those at Tangier are — for the United States of
America, James Simpson, Esq. ; Great-Britain, Mr.
Green ; France, Mr. Sourdian ; Sweden, Mr. Agrill ;
Spain, Don Orne, vice-consul ; Denmark, Mr. Scom-
boe ; Holland, Mr. Nijsoin ; and Portugal, Mr. Co-
loso. The consuls at Tangier keep up a sort of
etiquette, in celebrating the memorable epochs in the
history of their respective countries, and their parti-
cular national holidays, which custom is peculiar to
Tangier. They also keep up the long established
custom of giving consular dinners all in turn round
on the arrival of any new consul, or when an old one
is recalled, &c. These customs are extremely ex-
pensive, but have now become absolutely necessary
in order to impress the minds of the Moors with re-
spect for the dignity of the respective nations which
those consuls represent. The Christian consuls ge-
neral, near the Emperor of Morocco, are, ge-
nerally speaking, men eminent on account of cha-
racter, talents, and learning, and have a large
salary ; for, like foreign ministers plenipotentiarj',
they are not allowed to derive any emolument what-
ever from commerce. Bv accepting of this appoint-
520 • CAPTAIN RlLEY^S NARRATIVE.
ment, they exclude themselves from the society an^
comforts of the civilized world, and live besides in
exile, and in continual jeopardy, being always in the
power of real barbarians. They are under the ne-
cessity of sending to Europe for all their clothing,
liquors, stores, furniture, &c. except a few articles of
provisions, and those who have families are obliged
to send their cliiJdren to other countries for their
education, though at a very heavy expense. Mr.
Simpson left a lucrative commercial establishment at
Gibraltar, in 1798, and went to Tangier, merely to
serve our government, at a time when war was in-
tended by the Moorish Sultan against our commerce.
He succeeded in averting the threatened blow, and
in establishing our present treaty with that sove-
reisrn. He is a gentleman of unblemished character,
and pleasing manners, and has expended a handsome
fortune in the service of the United States, over and
above his consular salary. He has passed the best
of his days in the service of his adopted country, and,
in my opinion, deserves a handsome maintenance
from government during the remainder of his life,
free from the cares, vexations, and anxieties that are
always attached to a consulate in such barbarous
countries. Mr. Simpson is a native of Scotland, but
a firm American in principle, and an enthusiastic ad-
mirer of our excellent institutions.
The whole sea force of the Emperor of Morocco^
as I before observed, consists of two frigates of 32
guns each, and the brig Mogadore of 18 guns: the
only port he has which can shelter and secure them
from the reach of an enemy, is Laresch, which they
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 521
can neither enter nor sail from when equipped, except
at high- water spring tides. There are no coisairs
or small vessels belonging to individuals as formerly,
nor is there even a merchant-vessel belonging to the
Moors. In order to show how mnch value the pre-
sent Sultan sets on his ships of war, I must relate in
what manner he sometimes disposes of them.
About two years since, the Dey of Tripoli sent as
a present to the emperor of Morocco, a beautiful
Circassian girl: she was a virgin, and possessed
charms with which the old Sultan was so enraptured,
that he asked the ambassador who escorted her
from Tripoli, what he could send to his friend, the
Bashaw, in return for this jewel .'^ — 1 have nothing
but wheat, said he, of which the Dey, your master,
can alvyays have as much as he pleases. The Dey,
my master, said the ambassador, is always in want
of whteat; but, returned the Emperor, J would
return him something more valuable ; he has made
me a most superb present, and I wish to return the
compliment in a handsome manner. Your majesty
has frigates, said the ambassador : — so I have, in-
deed, answered the Sultan, and that 2;ives me much
pleasure ; go to Laresch, and make choice of one
from among my navy : I will have her fitted out in
the best manner, and sent round to the Dey direct-
ly : the ambassador did not wait a second bidding,
but went in haste to Laresch, for fear the sovereio;n
mig-ht chansie his mind ; chose a fine new frl.ujate of
32 guns that had but a short time previou been
coppered to the bends, which was Immediately fitted
according to promise, and sent to Tripoli, with the
3x
a22 GAPTAiN Riley's warrative.
ambassador on board, and where she arrived i»
safety, being escorted by an English vessel of war.
Both Mr. Simpson and Mr. Green assured me, that
this statement was correct. The emperor's squad-
ron might be blockaded, at all times, by a very
small force — his large ships are, therefore, not at
all to-be dreaded by any maritime power who has
timely notice of his hostile intentions, as they are
badly equipped and manned, having now no mari-
time commerce, and consequently no nursery for
seamen. The only port from which he co'uld do
any mischief of importance to Christian commerce
is Tangier. Should this, or any future Sultan, think
proper to declare war against any maritime stat/j,
he has only to send money over to Cadiz, Algeciras,
or Gibraltar, and purchase fast sailing latteen rigged
boats; fit and man them in Tangier immediately,
and serjd them to cruise in the mouth of the straits:
thus they might seize on the unsuspecting and un-
armed merchant ships, as they pass along — conduct
them into Tangier bay, or to any place along the
coast, where they would soon unload and run the
vessels on shore, keeping their crews as slaves. In
this light alone can the emperor of Morocco be
reckoned fojmidable to commercial states, and this
game could only be played for a short time, until
the nation thus attacked could send a force sufficient
to destroy the marauders. It would be good policy,
however, to keep at peace vnih the Moorish sove-
reign, as his rovers, lying at the door of the Medi-
terranean, might do much mischief; and to be a
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO. 523
slave to the Moors, is, indeed, dreadful to a Chris-
tian.
Tangier has but little commerce with Europe,
and this is chiefly carried on by the Jews ; but the
English government get their supplies of cattle and
other fresh provisions for the garrison of Gibraltar
from that place and Tetuan : this and the other
trifling trade is carried on in Gibraltar*-boats and
Spanish small craft. There is a considerable Coral
Fishery along the Moorish coast, about Cape Spar-
tel, and while I remained at Tangier, two Spanish
boats came into the port with what coral they had
been able to procure for the last six months: it was
of a beautiful colour, and of an excellent quality;
I was informed by one of the boatmen, that in order
to get the coral, they anchor in deep water, amongst
the rocks, and let down their nets, which soon be-
come entangled amongst the coral, and they then
draw it on board: this man said, that they came
over from Tarifla, and obtained leave from the
Alcayd of Tangier to fish on the coast, by agreeing
to give him one-third of the coral they should obtain ;
that he put two Moors on board their boats (one
each) to assist them in procuring provisions, water,
&c. and serve as safeguards : he said, the whole of
the coral they then had was to be divided the next
day, when they should sell their share at public sale
to the highest bidder, and I afterwards understood
from Mr. Simpson, that the French Consul purchased
it for twelve hundred dollars^ and there were twelve
fishermen to share the money.
524 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
On the 29th of January, 1816, a small schooner
being ready to sail for Gibraltar, 1 took mj leave of
Mr. Simpson and familv? and proceeded on to the
mole, in order to embark. This vessel had been
hired by a certain Jew, named Torrel, to carry his
family across to Gibraltar, which, with two or three
other famihes of European Jews, who would not
coiiform to the dress in which all Jews in Moorish
Barbary had been ordered to appear, nor pay the
tribute lately levied on them by the Sultan, were
ordered to depart forthwith from his dominions.
These families came out of the gates of the city, in
order to embark together, and proceeded with their
baggage to the ruins of the old mole, to go oif in
the boat, it being low water; they were accompa-
nied by a considerable number of Jews and Jew-
esses. A few of the latter, very decently dressed,
wished to escort them to the boat, and there to take
their leave, &c. — but the Moorish captains of the
port, without ceremony, began to brush them back
with big staffs they carried for the purpose : these
sticks were about five feet in length, and one inch
in diameter, and they applied them so unmercifully,
and with such singular dexterity, peculiar to the
Moors, as to lay many decent-looking Jewish fe-
males, as well as males, prostrate upon the beach;
when they renewed their blows, in order to raise
them on their feet again, and drive them into the
city-gate, like so many of the brute creation.
At about 8 o'clock A. M. I got on board this vessel
ID company with Mr. John Simpson and his lady*
TRAVELS. 526
who were on a return from a visit to their parents,
and after waitinc- nearly three hours for a letter
which tlie Governor wished to send to Gibraltar, we
set sail and left the bay with a fair but light breeze.
The scene of inhumanity and oppression I had just
witnessed, prompted me to thank my God again that
I was not a Jew, and that I was once more free from
a country inhabited by the worst of barbarians.
Passing up the strait, whioh in one place is only
eight miles broad, we arrived safe in Gibraltar bay
in the evening ; but as we did not get up before the
town until the gates of the garrison were closed, we
were obliged to remain, (40 in number) on board
the vessel during the night. On the 30th we were
visited very early by a boat from the health office,
and permitted to land. I went on shore immediately,
and was received by my friend Sprague with demon-
strations of unfeigned joy, and heartily welcomed to
that portion of the civilized world, and treated with
all the attention that flows from the warmest friend-
ship, and the tenderest commiseration. The Ameri-
can Consul was also attentive to me, and he had
also paid attention to the wants of my companions
in distress, who had arrived there from Mogadore by
sea a few days before me. An acquaintance told
me that Mr. Sprague had received Mr. Willshire's
letter, informing him of my captivity, on one Monday
morning at the moment of his return from Algeciras,
a famous Spanish town on the opposite side of the
bay, about ten miles from Gibraltar, where he gene-
rally spent the Sabbath; that he opened the letter in
the presence of, and read its contents to Mr. Henry,
526 CAPTAIN RILEY'S NARRATIVE.
United States Consul, a Mr. Kennedy of Baltimore,
and some other American gentlemen : that Mr.
Henry suggested that a subscription should be opened
and sent up to all the Consuls in the Mediterranean,
in order to raise money as soon as possible, and
transmit is to Mog-adore to release us : that Mr.
Sprague made no answer whatever to this proposi-
tion, but sent his trusty young man (Mr. Leach)
out with orders to purchase two double-barrelled
guns, while he hastily wrote a few lines to Mr. Will-
shire and myself, as before mentioned : that there
was but one double-barrelled fowling-piece to be
procured in the garrison: this was bought at the
price of eighty dollars^ and taking it together with his
own, which was a very highly finished, and favour-
ite piece, he mounted his horse and proceeded as
fast as possible to Algeciras, carrying the guns along
with him ; from whence he immediately despatched
a courier to Tariffa with the guns and his letters,
ordering them to be sent by an express-boat to Tan-
gier, and to the care of Mr. Simpson, to be again for-
warded by express to Mogadore. Such disinterest-
ed goodness, and such prompt and animated exer-
tions to relieve a fellow-creature in distress, have sel-
dom been recorded, and are above all praise : they
are examples of pure benevolence, that do honour
to human nature ; and ever honoured and beloved
shall he be, who has the heart and the spirit to imi-
tate them.
Mr. Sprague had already paid the bills I had
drawn on him In Mogadore for my ransom, &c. and
he now furnished me with provisions and stores, for
TRAVELS. 527
my voyage home, I having determined to go by the
first vessel for the United States. The ship Rapid
of New-York, Captain Robert Williams, being in
readiness to sail for that port, I embarked in her, ac-
companied by Mr. Savage and Horace ; Clark and
Burns having been previously accommodated on
board the ship Rolla, Captain Brown, of Newbury-
port, that was to proceed to the United States by
way of Cadiz. We set sail for our native country
on the 2d of February, 1816, with a fair breeze,
and on the 3d were safe without the straits.
As Gibraltar has been so frequently mentioned in
my narrative, a few descriptive observations re-
specting it may not be uninteresting to some of my
readers. Gibraltar is situated at the entrance of the
Mediterranean Sea, and is attached to the continent
of Europe by a low and narrow neck of sandy land,
which, as it hes neither in Spain nor Gibraltar, is
called the neutral ground. The rock appears to me
to have been originally an island, and the beach, or
neutral ground, to have been formed by the heaving
up of sand and gravel from the Mediterranean Sea
on the one side, and from the bay of Gibraltar on the
other. The rock is about two miles in length from
north to south, and one mile in breadth from east to
west. It rises from the south point in abrupt cliffs,
one above another, for about half a mile, when it
comes to its extreme height, which is said by some
to measure fourteen hundred feet, and by others^ se-
venteen hundred feet from the surface of the water:
the top extends, in uneven craggy points, for about
one mile to the northward, when it breaks off in one
528 CAPTAIN riley's narrative.
sudden cliff, which is nearly perpendicular to the
neutral ground, forming a face nearly as wide as the
rock itself, and completely inaccessible. This rock
forms probably the strongest fortress in Europe : it
has been long in the hands of the English; and is
surmounted with batteries of heavy cannon in every
direction, and is strongly walled in at every accessi-
ble point, so as to be considered impregnable. The
western side of the rock, near its base, is more flat-
ted and less inaccessible : here the town is built,
which consists of about two thousand stone houses,
and is said now to contain thirty thousand inhabit-
ants, who may be said to compose a very heteroge-
neous mass : for, as it is a free port, where the ves
sels and subjects of all nations who are at peace with
England, enter with their goods, traffiq and depart
at pleasure, and are wholly free from governmental
duties and impositions. People of all nations,
tongues, and kindred, are there to be found. The
bay is Very spacious, and is capable of containing a
vast number of shipping, which may ride in safety,
except in heavy gales from the east or south. This
fortress is held by the English government as a key,
or rather a lock and key to the Mediterranean Sea,
the door of which the Moors and Spaniards consider
as their property. Its garrison is composed of na-
tive English troops, which, in time of war, ought to
be seven thousand strong : it is commanded by a mi-
litary governor, and is always under martial law.
The British, with indefatigable industry and im-
mense labour, have formed roads up its steep west-
ern side, and constructed batteries, which are
TRAVELS. 529
iiiounted with heavy artillery, on its very summit.
[ts eastern side is steep and inaccessible. In its
northern side, next the neutral ground, but some
hundred feet above it, excavations have been formed
in the massy rock, in vt'hich heavy artillery is placed,
and pointed through port-holes penetrating the solid
front ; these batteries completely command the land
side, and are of course bomb proof — they are called
the upper and lower galleries, and are of great ex-
tent. Among its natural curiosities, St. Michael's
cave is the most remarkable : — this commences near
the top of the rock, and no bottom to it has ever yet
been found by the English, though it has been ex-
plored (such is the popular story) for many miles,
and the Moors have a notion that it forms a passage
under the strait to the coast of Morocco. Thou-
sands of monkeys also inhabit the summit and re-
cesses of this barren rock, but which in time of war
is the emporium of the Mediterranean trade.
After beating about for several days, near Cape
St. Vincent, with heavy gales of wind from the west-
ward, we steered to the southward into the latitude
of Madeira, and I found that the reckonings of the
officers on board were up fifty miles before we saw
that island, though they had good opportunities to
get meridian and other altitudes, which further con-
firmed me in the opinions I had already, formed re-
specting the Gulf-stream, as elucidated in the Appen-
dix. After passing Madeira, we made the best of
our way into the latitude of the constant trade winds,
say from 25 to 28 degrees, and ran down as far as
about the longitude of 70** : then steered northward,
3 Y
530 CAPTAIN Riley's narrative.
and arrived in New- York on the 20th of Marcb^
1816, where I was received by ray friends and fel-
low-citizens with demonstrations of joy and commise-
ration. I hastened to Middletown, Connecticut, to
visit my family, whom I found in good health. Our
meeting was one of those that language is inadequate
to describe. I spent only a week with them,our hearts
beating in unison, and swelling with gratitude to God
for his mercies; when what I owed to my friend
Sprague, and the remainder of my fellow-sufferers,
called me to the seat of government. On my arri-
val in Washington, I was introduced by the Hon.
Samuel W. Dana, Senator in Congress, to the Hon.
James Monroe, Secretary of State, who received me
in the most kind and feeling manner. The Admi-
nistration paid from the Treasury my own and my
crew's ransom, thus far, amounting to one thousand
eight hundred and fifty-two dollars and forty-five cents,
and assured me that provision should be immediately
made to meet the amount that might be demanded
for the remainder of the crew, should they ever be
found alive. The Secretary, together with many
distinguished members of both houses of Congress^
advised me to publish a Narrative of my late disas-
ters, which I have faithfully performed, and shall
now close my labours with a few brief remarks.
I have spent my days, thus far, amidst the bustle
and anxieties incident to the life of a seaman and a
merchant, and being now fully persuaded that the
real wants of human nature are very few^ and easily
satisfied, I shall henceforth remain, if it is God's wilK
TBAVELS. ^ 531
in my native country. I have been taught in the
school of adversity to be contented with my lot,
whatever future adversities I may have to encounter,
and shall endeavour to cultivate the virtues of charity
and universal benevolence. I have drank deep of
the bitter cup of sufferings and wo; have been
dragged down to the lowest depths of human degrada-
tion and wretchedness ; my naked frame exposed
without shelter to the scorching skies and chilling
night winds of the desart, enduring the most excruci-
ating torments, and groaning, a wretched slave, under
the stripes inflicted by the hands of barbarous mon-
sters, bearing indeed the human form, but unfeeling,
merciless, and malignant as demons; yet when near
expiring with my various and inexpressible sufferings ;
when black despair had seized on my departing soul,
amid the agonies of the most cruel of all deaths, I
cried to the Omnipotent for mercy, and the outstretch-
ed hand of Providence snatched me from the jaws
of destruction. Unerring wisdom and goodness has
since restored me to the comforts of civilized life, to
the bosom of my family, and to the blessings of my
native land, whose political and moral institutions
are in themselves the very best of any that prevail
in the civilized portions of the globe, and ensure to
her citizens the greatest share of personal liberty,
protection, and happiness ; and yet, strange as it
must appear to the philanthropist, my proud-spirited
and free countrymen still hold a million of the human
species in the most cruel bonds of slavery, who are
kept at hard labour and smarting under the savage
iash of inhuman mercenary drivers, and in many
532 ^APTALV RILEy's NARRATIVE.
instances enduring besides the miseries of hunger,
thirst, imprisonment, cold, nakedness, and even tor-
tures. This is no picture of the imagination : for the
honour of human nature I wish its hkeness were in-
deed no where to be found ; but I myself have wit-
nessed such scenes in different parts of my own coun-
try, and the bare recollection now chills my blood
with horror. Adversity has taught me some noble
lessons : I have now learned to look with compassion
on my enslaved and oppressed fellow creatures, and
my future life shall be devoted to their cause : — I will
exert all my remaining faculties to redeem the ensla-
ved, and to shiver in pieces the rod of oppression ;
and I trust I shall be aided in that holy work by every
good and every pious, free, and high-minded citizen
in the community, and by the friends of mankind
throughout the civilized world.
The present situation of the slaves in our country
ought to attract an uncommon degree of commisera-
tion, and might be essentially ameliorated without
endangering the public safety, or even causing the
least injury to individual interest. lam far from
being of opinion that they should all be emancipated
immediately, and at once. I am aware that such a
measure would not only prove ruinous to great num-
bers of my fellow citizens, who are at present slave
holders, and to whom this species of property de-
scended as an inheritance ; but that it would also
turn loose upon the face of a free and happy country,
a race of men incapable of exercising the necessary
occupations of civilized life, in such a manner as to
ensure to themselves an honest and comfortable sub-
TRAVELS. 533
sistence ; yet it is my earnest desire that such a plan
should be devised, founded on the lirm basis and the
eternal principles of justice and humanity, and de-
veloped and enforced by the general government, as
will gradually, but not less etTectually, wither and
extirpate the accursed tree of slavery, that has been
suffered to take such deep root in our otherwise
highly-favoured soil ; while, at the same time, it shall
put it out of the power of either the bond or the re-
leased slaves, or their posterity, ever to endanger
our present or future domestic peace or political tran-
quillitVv
END OF THE NARRATIVE.
V
inrir Tj.
APPENDIX.
Observations on the winds, currents, 4"C. in some parts of the At'
tantic ocean, developing the causes of so many shipwrecks on the Wes-
tern coast of Jifrica : — a mode pointed out for vibiting the famous
City of Tomhucioot, on the river Niger, together with some original
and officiul letters, 4'C. ^c
Bking safely at sea on board a good ship, and on my way to foin
my family, my mind was more tranquilized than it had before been
since my redemption, and I turned my thoughts to the natural
causes which had produced my late disaster. Upon taking a full
view of the subject according to the best of my capacity, I felt
convinced that not only rny own vessel was driven on shore by a
common current, but that most of the others that are known to have
been wrecked from time to time on the same coast, have been
operated upon by the same natural causes. In order briefly to il-
lustrate my position, 1 shall begin by stating, that to men who are
conversnnt with maritime affairs, and particularly practical navi-
gators who have for a number of years traversed the Atlantic ocean
lo Madeira and the Canary Islands, the West Indies, or Cape de
Verds ; who have sailed along the African coast — from thence
South-eastward towards the negro or Guinea settlements, and to
those who have been accustomed to navigate towards the continent
of South America, sailing along the coast of Brazil, and bt^tween
that coast and the West coast of Africa, and North of the Cape of
Good Hope to the Equator, it is well known that when sailing
Southwardly from Europe near the coast of Africa, and in fact
nearly across the Northern Atlantic ocean, the trade winds, as they
are called, set in and generally prevail, blowing from North to N..
E. or East from about latitude 32. N. on the African coast :— -that
farther vvestward, they only begin in the latitudes, from 30. to 20.
— in the last mentioned latitude near the coast of America, they
generally blow from the N. E. to the parallel of 23. of North lati
tude, when they turn more to the Eastward as you gain the offing
from the African continent. The coast of Africa from Cape Spar°
tel in latitude 34. 40, to Cape Blanco, in about latitude 33, tends
about S. W. thence about S. S. W. to Santa Cruz de Berberia, or
Agader-"-the Southern and Westernmost port in the Empire of
Morocco, in about the latitude 30. N. and longitude 10. W. from
London--il then turns abruptly off to the W. S. Westward to Cape
Nun, and continues nearly the same course, about W. S. W. with
little variation to Cape Bai.idor, about lrUitii<Jp 16. N. lort^ifude
APPENDIX.
Observations on the rvinds, currents, 4'C. in some parts of the At-
iantic ocean, developing the causes of so many shipwrecks on ike Wes-
tern coast of Jijrica : — a mode pointed out for visiting the famous
City of Tomhucioot, on the river Niger, together with some original
and official letters, 4*c. ^c.
Being safely at sea on board a good ship, and on my way to join
my family, my mind was more tranquilized than it had before been
since my redemption, and I turned my thoughts to the natural ,
causes which had produced my late disaster. Upon taking a full
view of the subject according to the best of my capacity, I felt
convinced that not only piy own vessel was driven on shore by a
common current, but that most of the others that are known to have ,
been wrecked from time to time on the same coast, have been
operated upon by the same natural causes. In order briefly to il-
lustrate my position, 1 shall begin by stating, that to men who are
conversnnt with maritime affairs, and particularly practical navi-
gators who have for a number of years traversed the Atlantic ocean
to Madeira and the Canary Islands, the West Indies, or Cape de
Verds ; who have sailed along the African coast — from thence
South-eastward towards the negro or Guinea settlements, and to
those who have been iccustomed to navigate towards the continent
of South America, sailing along the coast of Brazil, and between
that coast and the West coast of Africa, and North of the Cape of
Good Hope to the Equator, it is well known that when sailing
Southwardly from Europe near the coast of Africa, and in fact
nearly across the Northern Atlantic ocean, the trade winds, as they
are called, set in and generally prevail, blowing from North to N.
E. or East from about latitude 32. N. on the African coast :— -tba?:
farther westward, they only begin in the latitudesfrom 30. to 20.
— in the last mentioned latitude near the coast of America, they
generally blow from the N. E. to the parallel of 23. of North lati
tude, when they turn more to the Eastward as you gain the ofEng
from the African continent. The coast of Africa from Cape Spar-
tel in latitude 34. 40, to Cape Blanco, in about latitude 33, tends
about S. W. thence about S. S. W. to Santa Cruz de Berberia, or
Agader-— the Southern and Westernmost port in the Empire of
Morocco, in about the latitude 30. N. and longitude 10. W. from
Lundon----il then turns abruptly off to the W. S. Westward to Cape
Nun, and continues nearly the same course, about W. S. W. with
iittle variation to Cape Baiador, about latitude 25. N. lonfifude
536 APPENIUX.
16. W.— The whole length of this coast the wind blows either dragJ
onally, or directly on shore perpetually — the reason of this I
take to be that the Empire of Morocco west of the Atlas ridge of
mountains is very dry and very hot, having few rivers, and those
very small, during the greatest part of the year. There are no
lakes of consequence, except one near Laresch, to cool the atmos-
phere, nor any showers of rain, except in winter, to refresh the
thirsty earth. From Santa Cruz west through what was formerly
the kingdom of Suse, it blows right on shore, from the same causes
operating in a stron:,er degree together, with a variation in the tend-
ing of the coast and thence to Bajador, and along the coast of the
great desart to the latitude of 17. North, and the trade wind con-
tinues to haul round, and actually near the land blows Eastward into
the gulf of Guinea. This desart is scorched for about one half of
the year by the rays of a vertical sun — here nature denies the re-
freshing rains that fall in other regions ; the smooth even surface
strongly reflecting the rapid sun's beams, while there are no trees
or other objects to intercept the rays and prevent the most powerful
accumulation of solar heat, which consequently becomes so exces-"
sive during the day-time that it scorches like fire, and the air you
breathe seems like the dry and suffocating vapour from glowing em-
bers : here the wind ceases in the day-time, being literally con-
sumed by the sun ; the whole surface thus becomes heated and
baked in the day-time, and when the^ sun disappears from above the
horizon, the cooling wind rushes on to the desart from the ocean to
restore the equilibrium of the atmosphere.
The sea-breeze begins about six o'clock in the evening, and
continues to increase gradually all along this coast until four o'clock
in the morning, at lyhich period it has risen to a strong gale, so
that vessels navigating near the land are frequently forced to take
in all their light sails by midnight, and to reef dovA'n snug before
morning, when it begins to lull a little, and about mid-day be-
comes very moderate and sometimes quite calm. Every practical
man knows that the winds drive a current before them on. the bosom
of the ocean as well as along its shores, that becomes more or less
strong in proportion as the gale is light or heavy, and of long or short
duration. On this coast the current sets before the wind against
the shore — it there meets with unconquerable resistance, and is
turned Southward : it is always felt from about Cape Blanco, (lat.
33.) Southward, and grows stronger and stronger until it passes
Cape Bajador, because it is more and more compressed —thence
it strikes off, one part to the S. W. towards the Cape de Verd Is-
lands, and the remainder keeps along the coast to Cape de Verd,
whence it spreads itself towards the Equator, and some part fol-
lows the windings of the coast round the gulf of Guinea.
The S. E. trade winds which blow almost continually from the
'atitufip of no, S, in the Atlantic Ocean to the Equator, and often to
APPENDK, 537
the 5th degree of Northern latitude— these S. E. trades assist those
from the N. E. in heaping up the water in the equatorial region,
when both the N. E. and S. E. winds uniting, blow frtun the east-
ward, bearing the whole mass of water on this surface towards the
American continent : it strikes that continent to the northward of
Cape la Roque, between the parallels of 6 degrees south latitude
and the Equator, on the coast of Brazil, where the coast turns to
the westward ; — being much compressed, it runs strongly along this
coast to the mouth of the mighty river Amazon, with whose current
it is united and borne down along the coast of Cayenne, Surinam,
and Guyanna, receiving in its way all the waters brought against
those coasts by the constant trade-winds from the east and N. E.,
and all the great rivers which flow in from the southward, among
which is the Oronoko, one of the longest on the continent of South
America, and that rolls, in the rainy season, an immense body of
water to the ocean : I have ascended that river five hundred miles.
The current runs so strong at times towards the west along this
whole line of coast, (which is mostly low land, and has principally
been made on the sea-board by the alluvial qualities of the waters
in the rivers brought down by freshes, which are then thick with
mud, like those of the Missisippi) as to render it impossible for any
vessel to get to the windward or eastward by beating against the
wind. Its velocity has been known to exceed three miles an hour.
This great current is driven i^^estward along the coast between it
and the West India Islands, a great part of it entering the Gulf oif
Paria, south of the Island of Trinidad, where it receives and is
strengthened by the waters of the western branch of the Oronoko
River; — here the high land, that evidently joined this island to the
continent I'ormerly, has been burst asunder, perhaps indeed assisted
by an earthquake' or some other convulsion of nature : there are
here several passages for the current, I think, four, (for I write en-
tirely from memory) through the same mountain, which is of an
equal height on the islands and on the continent, and the fragments
of rocks which have been torn out and rolled away by this tremen-
dous shock or current, leave no doubt in the mind of the beholder
of the reality of such an event. The widest passage is not more
than two miles over, the narrowest not more than one-fourth of a
mile : these passages are called by the Spaniards, who first explored
and settled that part of the country, (as well as the Island of Tri-
nidad, i. e. Trinity,) Las Bocas del Dragon, or the Dragon's
Mouths. This body of water rushes through these passages with
such force, that it is next to impossible at times for a fast-sailing
vessel to enter against the current, with a strong trade wind in her
favour, and 1 have known many vessels bound to Trinidad, obliged
to bear up and try for the Leeward Islands, and scarcely able to fetch
Hispaniola or Jamaica. This, with what passes northward of
Trinidad, is pent in and forced against the Spanish co^ist of Terra
3z
538 APPENDIX.
Firma, following its windings round the Bay of Honduras to Cape
Catoche : by tiie constant trade winds which blow from the N. E.
to east, they are then driven through between that Cape and Cape
St. Antonio, or the western part of the Island of Cuba into the Gulf
of Mexico. From the similarity in the appearance of Cape Catoche
and Cape St. Antonio, the lovvness of the land on both sides, the
strait that divides them being only about sixty miles wide, and
the fact of soundings being found nearly or quite across the chan-
nel, it has been thought, and vpith every probability of truth in its
favour, that the Island of Cuba was once attached to this point of
the continent, and the waters heaped up by the foregoing causes in
that great bay south of Cuba, at some remote period broke over
the low sandy land, tore it down, and formed for themselves a free
passage into the great gulf of Mexico.
The "circumstance of the Island of Cuba stretching nearly east
and west about seven hundred miles in length, and in many places
very high, with the well-known fact of the powerful currents already
mentioned setting in upon the coast south and west of it, and the
constant easterly winds that prevail on its southern side, leaves
very little room to doubt that these strong trade winds, ( pposing
the passage of the current up the south side of that once vast penin-
sula, have raised them to such a pitch that they have formed a chan-
nel for themselves. This immense mass of water, thus forced into
the Bay of Mexico, runs to the N. W. to its northern border, and
strikes that shore a few leagues west of the Missisippi river's mouth —
thence taking a circular direction round south towards Vera Cruz
and along the south coast of the gulf, seems to lose itself near
where it entered at Cape Catoche. In sailing in the gulf of
Mexico, you meet with whirlpoolsand very strong currents in every
part of it, sometimes setting one way, and sometimes another : the
gulf being of a circular torm, there is no certainty in the currents.
During the summer months it is visited by the most dreadful squalls
of thunder and lightning, and by water-spouts that have often des-
troyed vessels. Storms or hurricanes are also very frequent, and
calms of a month or two often occur : here that astonishing body of
water is joined by that of all the rivers that empty into the gulf,
particularly those borne down by that father of rivers, the Missi-
sippi ; — thus accumulated and become much higher in the Bay
of Mexico than in any other pari of the Atlantic Ocean, it forces
its way eastward between Cape Florida and the northern side of
the Island of Cuba, until meeting the great bank of Bahama in its
front, with its numerous keys and rocks, it is turned northwardly
along the coast of Florida. Its velocity there in the narrowest part,
where it is only about forty miles wide, has been ascertained (and,
indeed, I have known it myself) to exceed five miles an hour at
some particular seasons. After leaving this narrow passage, it keepr
jts course northwardly, spreading a little as it proceeds, until i'.
APPENDIX. 539
strikes soundings off Savannah and Charleston— the coast then
narrows in its western edge again until it approaches Cape Hatteras,
where the stream is not more than fifty miles broad, and frequently
runs with almost as great rapidity as between the Bahama Bank
and Florida shore. From Cape Hatteras its course is N E. to the
shoals off Nantucket Island and George's Bank, where its velocity
is about two miles an hour ; these obstructions give it a more
easterly direction, until it strikes the Great Bank of Newfoundland
in the latitude of 42. N. or thereabouts : here it meet? with the
resistance of the bank, and is turned by it to the E. S. E. There is in
this part of the ocean a current which perpetually sets from the
northward, south-eastwardly along the east coast of Newfoundland;
it is this current which brings from the coast of Labrador and
Hudson's Straits the islands of ice that are so often met with by
ships on and about the Grand Newfoundland Bank in the first part
of the summer, and which have proved fatal to so many ships and
their crews : the appearance of these islands proves beyond a
possibility of doubt the existence of that current, which pressing
upon, is joined to that of the Gulf Stream and the whole sets away
together towards the Azores, or Western Islands, at the rate of from
one to two and a half miles an hour : — this current' is felt by all
vessels bound from the United States to the Western Islands and
Madeira, or the Canai ies, that sail in the parallels of the Azores,
which all those vessels bound to Madeira, the Canaries, or the
coast of Spain and Portugal, and the Mediterranean Sea, a;enerally
do. Those vessels that make the Western Islands when bound to
Europe generally feel it until they lose sight of those Islands ; when
in standing away for the northern or central ports of Europe they feel
it no more, and it has therefore generally been thought to lose
itself near the Azores in the ocean. This is a mistake — for it
continues its course for the coast of Africa, making no account of
the island of Madeira, though the most of it passes northward of
that island in a south-easterly direction, and strikes the African con-
tinent from Cape Blanco to the latitude of 29** North. When it
comes near this coast, it is again contracted as it feels the effects of
the trade winds near the coast, and rushes forward at times with
great velocity against the coast between Cape Blanco and the
island of Lanzarote, the northern and easternmost of the Canary
Islands, being attracted, as it were, by the vacuum occasioned by
the trade winds and currents which have been beibre noticed,
and which have in a measure drained the waters from the coast,
and the continuation of the Gulf Stream increasing in velociiy,
restores the waters nearly to their former level, which still are kept
rolling along before the wind, against and along the coast towards
the Equator, and are again driven by tiie same causes to the coast of
America into the Gulf of Mexico and back again, in what is usually
termed the Gulf Stream to the coasts of West and South Barbary,
^40 APPENDIX.
flnakiiig their continual round. Ships bound from Europe, saj
England, France, Holland, &.c. to the West Indies, the Cape
de Verd Islands, the coast of Guinea, Brazils, or India voy-
ages, or to the west coast of America, generally steer
soL'finvard along the coast of Portugal, until they cross the
mouth ot the straits of Gibraltar, where if they meet
with southerly winds, they are drawn towards the coast of
Africa by a small indraft setting towards the strait, where a cur-
rent slways runs in ; for the waters of the rivers which empty into
the Mediterranean Sea afe not sufficient to supply the loss from eva-
porations rendered necessary in order to moisten in some measure
the parched earth and sand on its southern border, and to cool the
heated atmosphere, and support by dews the scanty vegetation on
the coast, during the greater part of the year, where no rain falls
except a little in winter ; so that the surface of the Mediterranean
Sea is alw.'ys lower than that of the adjoining Atlantic. The same
causes, viz. great evaporations, tend also to reduce the quantity of
water in the open ocean near the west coast of Atrica, and parti-
cularly that part bordering on the desart, where very little or no
rain ever falls, and the smooth surface of which, baked almost as
hard as stone by the heat of a vertical sun, is during the night in
some degree relreshed by the strong winds and vapours which come
from the sea, as beiore noticed. These reasons, together with the
facts which I have before stated, demonstrate to my understand-
ing, satisfactorily, that in the offing all along this coast, the water
must incline towards it, contrary to any general principle of cur-
rents ; and this is proved, if any doubt did exist, by the vast num-
ber ot vessels that have from time to time been wrecked on these
wild and inhospitable shores, generally near Cape Nun, and from
(hence to Cape Bajador, and as far south as Cape de Verd. Ships
from Europe bound round the southern Capes ot Africa and America,
generally stop at Madeira or Teneriffe for refreshments, and are
not unfrequently obliged to run for Madeira after they get in its la-
titude, and their reckoning by account is up one, and sometimes
two degreesnvestward before they find that island ; when, had they
kept on the courses which they would naturally have steered to
reach Teneriffe, they would have been sucked or drawn in by the
currents between Lanzarote and Cape Cantin, and driven ashore
near Cape Nun before they could suspect they had reached the la-
titude of that island, and in the firm belief that they were near the
longitude of Teneriffe, and consequently two hundred and fifty
miles from the coast ^vhere they in fact, are, and where no human
effort can save them from either perishing in the sea. or becoming
blaves to the Bcreberies, Moors, or Arabs, who inhabit this coun-
try. Most merchant vessels steer courses that ought to carry them
within sight ot the Canary Islands when bound to the southward,
OP from the strait of Gibraltar : they generally experience a
APPENDIX. 641
southerly current after passing the latitude of Cape Blanco, and
have a fair wind when near the coast, with lliick hazy weather, so
that they cannot get an altitude of the sun : this is a sure sign they
are in the 3. E. current, over which hangs a vapour similar to that
observed over the Gulf Stream near the American Continent, and
when these portending signs occur they should stand directly ofif
W. N. W. or N. W. until they reach the longitude of Madeira,
and never pass the latitude of Teneriffe or Palma, without seeing
one of them. Near these Islands the atmosphere is more clear,
and they can be seen from sixty to one hundred miles distant in
clear weather. I am particular in advising those ship-masters who
are bound that way, by all means to make the Island of Madeira :
it takes them but little out of their route, and from thence they will
be sure of making Teneriffe or Palma, in steering the regular
courses, when by due precaution against indraughts southward of
those Islands, they avoid the dangers of this terrible coast, and the
dreadful sufferings or deaths which await all that are so unfortunate
as to be wrecked on them : I have learned from a long experience
in trading and navigating from Europe as well as America, to the
iMadeira and Canary Islands, to the coast of Brazil and South
America in general, thence northward across the southern Atlantic,
all along the coast of Guyanna and Terra Firma, from the river
Amazon to the Bay of Honduras, through the passages between
Trinidad and the Main, Cape Catoche and the Island of Cuba — in
the gulf of Mexico, and in the Missisippi River, to Cuba ; — through
the Gulf Stream backwards and forwards — along the coasts of Flo-
rida to and from different ports in the United States, thence to and
from all the West India Islands, and to and from almost every part
of Europe, and I can assert, without fear of contradiction from any
practical man, that the particular currents I have here mentioned
do in reality exist in all those parts of the ocean. I have endea-
voured to find out their causes, and now give tfee reader those I
judge to be the correct ones — I presume no man ever took more
pains to examine and ascertain the facts on which this theory is
founded ; having tried the currents whenever I had an opportunity,
in different parts of the Atlantic, and very few men have had better
opportunities : bow far I have succeeded, must hereafter be deter-
mined.
When I took my departure from Cape Spartel bound to the Cape
de Verd Islands on my last voyage, I steered W. N. W. by com-
pass, until that Cape bore E. S. E. distant ten or twelve leagues, to
give the coast a good birth ; then I shaped my course W, S. W.
and took care to have the vessel always steered a little westward ot
her course — she was a very fast sailer, and steered extremely easy,
and what little she did vary from her course was to the westward :
we had a constant fair wind, and generally a good breeze, and
were only three days northward of the Canary Islands. I had
^42 APPENDIX.
frequently tried the compasses on the outward bound passage, and
found thera to be correct, their variation being no more than is ge-
nerally calculated, i. e. nearly two points about the straits of
Gibraltar ; I therefore made all the allowance I could suppose ne-
cessary, and my courses steered ought to have carried my vessel
to the westward of Teneriife ; but I was near the coast, and the in-
draught so strong, setting at the rate of at least two miles an hour
E. S. E. or two and a half S. E. that my vessel was carried by it
out of her course in three days nearly two hundred miles directly
east broad-side towards Africa, and she must have entered the pas-
sage between Lanzarote and Fuertaventura (the easternmost of the
Canaries) and the coast of Africa, and so far from the Islands, that
ive could not discover them, though- the Island oi Fuertaventura is
very high. The current here ran more to the south, sweeping my
vessel along with great rapidity towards Cape Nun and the coast —
but my course being so far westward, I was carried by the help of,
the current, which is turned by the coast to S. W. near to the pitch
of Cape Bajador, before I could suppose it was possible that we were
near it.
Of the great number of vessels wrecked on this part of the coast,
very few get as far down ; almost all go on shore near Cape Nun,
and before they believe themselves, in the latitude of Lanzarote,
being drawn in by' this fatal current and indraught, when they
think they are far to the westward, and are many times on the
look-out for Teneriffe. The weather is always extremely thick
and foggy along this coast within the vortex of this current. If the
crews of vessels, even in the day-time, discover land to leeward,
westward of Santa Cruz de Berberia, as it tends in some places
nearly east and west, having always a strong wind, swell, and
current, right on shore, and a tremendous sea rolling on, it is next
to impossible for the fastest sailer to escape total destruction by
running on shore, where the crew must either miserably perish in
the sea, starve to death after landinj?, be massacred by, or become
slaves to the ferocious inhabitants, the most savage race of men,
perhaps to be found in the universe. These barbarians know and
obey no law but their own will ; their avarice alone sometimes
prompts them to save the lives of their fellow mortals when in the
deepest distress, in the hope of gaining by the sale the labour or
the future ransom of their captives, whom they say God has placed
in their hands as a reward for some of their virtues or good actions ;
and it is a sacred duty they owe to themselves, as well as to the Su-
preme Being, to make the most they can by them. Not less than
six American vessels are known to have been lost on this part of the
coast since the year 1800, besides numbers of English, French,
Spanish, Portuguese, &c. which are also known to have been
wrecked there, and no doubt many other vessels that never have
h^en heard from — but it is only Americans and Englishmen that
APPENDIX. o4^
are ever heard from after the first news of the shipwreck. The
French, Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian governments, it is said,
seldom ransom their unfortunate shipwrecked subjects, and they are
thus doomed to perpetual slavery and misery — no friendly hand is,
ever stretched forth to relieve their distresses and to heal theic
bleeding wounds, nor any voice of humanity to soothe their bitter
pangs, till worn out with sufierings not to be described by mortal
man, they resign their souls to the God who gave them, and launch
into the eternal world with pleasure, as death is the only relief
from their sufferings.
I cannot omit to inform my readers, that on the 1st of January,
1816, when in Mogadore, I went in company with Mr. Willshire,
to pay a comphmentary visit to Don Estevan Leonard!, an old
man, a Genoese by birth, who had lived a long time in Mogadore
— he has, I was informed, exercised the functions of French Vice-
Consul there for a number of years — he received us with the com-
pliments of the season ; congratulated me coldly on my redemp-
tion from slavery ; inquired some particulars, &c. &c. after which,
and when we had refreshed ourselves with a glass of wine, he told
me, that " about the years 1810, 11, he received a long letter from
Suse, brought to him by an Arab, written by a Frenchman : this
stated that the writer and another Frenchman, whom he named,
had escaped from a prison in Teneriffe a few weeks previously-
where they had been long confined as prisoners of war ; that they
stole an open boat in the night, and set sail in,jthe hope of esca
ping from the Spaniards, who had treated them with great harsh-
ness and cruelty ; that they steered to the eastward, expecting to
land on the coast of Morocco, where they trusted they might regairi
their liberty, and get home through the aid of the French Consuls;
that they made the coast of Suse, and landed a few leagues below
Santa Cruz or Agader, after great sufferings and hardships, where-,
they were seized on as slaves, and stripped naked ; and the lette.
concluded by begging of him to ransom them, and thus save the
lives of two unfortunate men, who must otherwise soon perish, &c.
&.C. — but, said Leonard!, 1 had no orders from the Consul-General
to expend money on account of his government, and accordingly
persuaded the Arab who brought the letter to stop with me a few
days — his price was two hundred dollars for the two, and he wat
their sole proprietor. In the mean time I sent off a Courier ex
press to Tangier, for orders from the Consul-General, who return-
ed at the end of thirty-five days, with leave to pay one hundred
dollars a man for them, but no other expenses. The Arab stayed
fifteen days with me, and then returned home in disgust; he
could not believe I would ransom them, as I did not do it imme-
diately , but when my express returned from Tangier, giving me.
leave to buy them, I sent a Jew down with the money to pay their
ransgm, but when he came to their master, he would not se!i them
544 APPENDIX.
at his former price, for he said he had found them to be mecbanfcs,
and demanded three hundred ddlars for the two, or one hundred
and fifty dollars each. The Jew said, he saw the men; they were
naked, hard at work, and appeared to be much exhausted, very-
miserable, and dejected : — he might have bought one for one hun-
dred and fifty dollars, but would not, as he had no orders to do so.
When the Jew was about to return, their master told him if he
went away without the men, and the Consul wanted them, he must
pay four hundred dollars for them : — now on the Jew's arrival at
Mogadore with this news, (continued Leonard!,) I sent off another
express to Tangier, who brought back leave to pay the four hun-
dred dollars, at the same time cautioned me not to make any fur-
ther expenses on their account. I sent down the four hundred
dollars to Suse again, and ordered the messenger to buy one, if he
could not get both ; but their master said, he had been played
with and deceived until that time ; that if I wanted them, I must
j)By Jive hundred dollars, and that he would then escort them up
to Swearah, and be answerable for their safety until they arrived
there, but he would not take the four hundred dollars, nor would
he separate them ; and so the messenger returned without them.
The negotiation had already taken up near a year. I have ex-
pended (said he,) about two hundred dollars that I shall never get
again, and I suppose the men are dead, as I have not heard from
them since." This, if not in the precise words, was the substance
of what he said, and I could scarcely suppress the indignation I
felt at this recital, nor avoid contrasting the behaviour of this mari
■with that of my noble friend Wiilshire. This old man is very
rich; has no family but himself, and is one of the most zealous
Christians, in professions at least, in Barbary ; but a sordid wretch,
who never knew the pleasure arising from the consciousness oi
having done a good deed.
While I remained at Mogadore, a schooner arrived there, as I
have before observed, from Gibraltar: she was a Genoese vessel,
but sailed under English colours, as the King of Sardmia was at
war with all the Barbary powers, or at least they were at war
with him : — the captain, officers, and crew, were Genoese and
Spaniards. She had been more than twenty days on her passage
from Gibraltar, having been carried by the current down the coast
below Santa Cruz or Agader. The captain told me, he must inevi-
tably have gone ashore near Cape Nun, had not God in his mercy
favoured him with a south wind, out of the usual course of nature,
on that coast, when he was close to the land : he had been beating
for three days against the trade-wind, nearing the coast every day,
and could not fetch off either way, though his vessel was a fast
sailer, and only in ballast trim. He arrived at Mogadore about
the 1st of December, after the wind had been blowing strong,
with some rain from the .south, for four days : it is only in Do«
APPENDIX. 545
cember and January that these winds occur, and always bring a
storm with them, either of wind or rain: this schooner was the
vessel in whicl) my second mate and three men went round from
Mogadore to Gibraltar.
As the geography of that part of Africa lying in the equatorial
regions eastward of that extensive ridge of mountains which bor-
ders its western coast from the latitude 18. N. to the Congo
River, and westward of the mountains of the Moon in which the
Nile has its sources, has excited much speculation and interest in
the learned world, (though it does not come strictly within my pro-
vince,) I will, nevertheless, make a few brief observations on the
practicability of exploring those hitherto unknown countries, in the
hope that they may hereafter be useful. And first, it is my de-
cided opinion, that no European or civilized armed force, how-
ever large or well appointed, can ever penetrate far into the inte-
rior of these wild and dismal recesses by land, either from the
shores of the Atlantic ocean, or the Mediterranean Sea ; because
an army on such an expedition, would not only have to encounter
powerful hosts of savage enemies at every turn, and undergo the
severest privations, fatigues, and hardships, but would besides have
to encounter the raging heat of this scorching climate, surpassing
any thing they may ever have experienced, and the pestilential
disorders incident thereto: — these circumstances taken together,
could scarcely fail to produce its total annihilation in a short period,
and thus frustrate the boldest and best planned military attempt. —
Individual bravery, enterprise, skill, and prudence, in the ordi-
nary way, by travelling unprotected, are also, in my opinion, en-
tirely unequal to the task, and such enterprises must, I think, al-
ways prove abortive. Something might, perhaps, be done by
l)lack travellers, natives of that country, tutored expressly for that
purpose, and sent off singly from dififerent stations and on different
routes ; but owing to their conlined education and particular train
of ideas, nothing very valuable could be expected trom their re-
searches. Steam Boats strongly built, and of a suitable construc-
tion, well armed and appointed, might ascend the river Congo,
(which I am induced from many considerations to believe is the
outlet of the river Niger,) and traffic up that river, making impor-
tant discoveries; but the whole of their officers, as well as all the
men employed on board them, should first be inured to such cli-
mates, and be persons accustomed to fatigues, privations, hard-
ships, and sufl'erings; and, above all, should be guided by the
greatest degree of human prudence. A plain and very simple
method for visiting Tombuctoo in safety, and returning again,
might be pointed out by either the American or English Consuls
residing at Tangier, Algiers, Tunis, or Tripoli : — to accomplish
this journey, the traveller, after being duly qualified, has only to
become a slave by his own consent, and a secret understanding
4 A
546 APPENBJX.
*
with his hired master ; being bargained away by the Consul tc-
one of the principal merchants trading to that city in the yearly
oaravans, and who might be induced to enter into the project for
an ample remuneration.
I have been induced to publish* the following letters, because
they relate to, and throw some light on the subject of my late dis-
aster, &c. and contain some information respecting that part of
my crew who were lelt in slavery on the great De?art. William
Porter was redeemed by my invaluable friend, Mr. Willshire, and
arrived in Mogadore, October 18th, 1816: — he landed in Boston on
the nth of December following, from the brig Adriano of Dux-
bury, captain R. Motley, direct from Mogadore, and is now with
me in New-York.
These are private and friendly letters, and were never intended
for publication by their respective writers. 1 must rely, therefore,
on their good-will and friendship to excuse me for the liberty I
take in giving them to the public.
Mogadore, March 10, 1816.
My DEAR SIR AND BROTHER,
The perusal of your several favours of the 21st and 23d
January, from Tangier, and 1st and 2d February, from Gibraltar,
afFordtd, and will continue to produce as long as the sun enlightens
my days, a serenity of mind, an inexpressible something that I
have never before telt; a kind of thrilling pleasure unmixed with
the usual bitter draught generally attendant on the occurrences of
mortals in this world. In rescuing you from the hands of the
Arabs, I have raised up a friend, and I am more than doubly
repaid for my exertions (a common act due from one fellow-Chris-
tian to another) by the kind and overwhelming expressions of
gratitude contained in your letters, and the prayers of a good mari
for my future welfare ; a reward above all price. Your letters will
always be dear to me, as written by the friend of my heart, and
preserved among my family letters.
Our friend, Mr. Simpson, informs me you sailed on the 2d ult
in the ship Unpid, for New-York — may the Ruler of the waves
befriend her, and give her a safe and quick voyage, and grant to
you a happy m.eeting with your family and friends.
On the 3Uth January I received news of an English vessel being
wrecked on Cape Nun ; the crew and passengers consist of twenty-
one. In consequence of the orders of Mr. Green, and ihe mer-
chants being called up to Morocco wiih their anim.d presents, I
went on the part of the Christians, and for the purpose of making
an application to his Imperial Majesty. I succeei.'ed in obtaining
his Majesty's letter to the governt>r of Tanidant, with orders to
purchase them ; it unfortunately happens, that between him and
APPENBIX.
547
Sifll Ishem (the Moor who has eighteen of them in his possession,)'
there exists a mortal hatred, and I am now fearful that Sidi Ishem^
sooner than sell the Christians at any price, will destroy them, or
immediately march them into the Desart ; or at least three or four
months will elapse before they are redeemed; when had I orders
to pay the ransom money, (say three thousand five hundred dol-
lars,) I could bring them all up in eight or ten days.
I am obliged to close this without adding .several subjects I
wished to dilate upon, in consequence of Mr. O'Sullivan's being
ready to go on board, and intends to sail this afternoon.
1 remain, with sentiments of the greatest esteem, &c.
WILLIAM WILLSHIRE.
P. S. On re-perusing what T have written, I discover I have
omitted to mention any thing respecting the remainder of your
crew — I have not heard from Sidi Hamet since you left this place,
nor have I received the least information respecting them : I trust
in God soon to hear of them, when I will give you the earliest in-
formation of the same. — Rais bel Cossim, Nahory, Bel Mooden,
&;c. ali beg their remembrances. Yours, &c.
W. W.
Mogadore, April 14, 1816.
My dear sir,
I had the satisfaction on tlie 10th ult. by a vessel bound to
¥ew-York, to write you a few lines, covering a Vocabulary of the
Arabic language, and under the charge of Mr. O'Sullivan. I for-
warded the feathers given to you by Sidi Hamet, to which I took
the liberty of adding six others, and which I hope will arrive safe,
and meet you in the midst of your family, enjoying health, liberty,
and content.
Knowing the very great interest you have to hear of the release,
or a probability of the redemption of your remaining friends and
companions in distress, it is to me a source of the truest pleasure to
be able now to inform you, that four of your crew are now supposed
to be near Widnoon. Two days ago I received a scrap of paper,
signed William Porter, dated from, the same place ; but as he can
scarcely write his name, I obtained no information from him ; nor
does he inform me of any but himself being there : — it is through
the medium of travellers from those parts, that I learn three per-
sons calling themselves Americans are in the neighbourhood of Wid-
noon. I hav«e forwarded orders down to purchase them if possible
atone hundred dollars per man, or a few dollars more ; the only
step I could pursue, as no sum is mentioned. I shall obtain an an-
swer in twelve or fifteen days, when I shall be able to form an opi-
nion of the probable cost, and when it is likely they will obtain
their liberty. I wrote a consolatory letter to Porter, assuring hiiu
of my best exertiens being used in his behalf.
548 APPENDIX.
The affair oi the British brig Surprise, which I informed you of
iij my last, that is, as it respects the redemption of the crew, is
now ijivolved in a mass of difftculties ; the amount demanded for
eighteen persons being upwards of seven thousand dollars. This
sum the Governor of Tarudant is not inclined to pay for them, un*
til he receives the instructions from his Imperial Majesty, who I am
certain will not agree to pay so exorbitant a price ; and the effect
will be, his majesty will countermand the orders given, and they
must eventually be redeemed by British funds. His Excellency
the Governor acknowledges it is not in his power to obtain them by
force, as they are not within the jurisdiction of the Emperor. The
first cost to their present owner was four thousand seven hundred
dollars ; on vphich amount he demands fifty per cent, profit. They
might now have been on their way to England, if the business had
not been taken out of my hands by his Majesty and the orders of
the Consul-General, as the owner of them offered them to me at the
first cost, say four thousand five hundred dollars, and would have
been contented to receive for his trouble a double-barrelled gun,
and a little tea and sugar. The business being in' the hands of the
Mugizene, (merchants) natives of Suse, is fontey bezef, (bad
enough), it is now impossible to determine what length of time.
the captivity of those unfortunate men may be extended to. These
circumstances will, I hope, be sufficient to demonstrate the truth of
my opinion, so often expressed on this subject.
I shall feel greatly obliged by your communications on the suc-
cess of your application to your government on the subject of your
own captivity, and of the future footing on which the redemption of
American citizens in slavery in this country is to be established.
I am eagerly and anxiously expecting to hear, I trust, of your safe
arrival amongst your friends and countrymen, as the interest I feel
for your future welfare and prosperity will always be near my
heart. 1 cannot enjoy the smiles of fortune (if they are ever so
kind as to attend me in my passage through this life) without I
know my friend is blessed with them also.
I beg to inform you, in the hope you may feel an inducement to
visit this country, not only as a probable source of profit, but from
a wish of again inhaling the breezes where you first found yourself
at liberty, both in body and mind, that our market is again im-
proving, &c.
With best respects to your friends and acquaintances, and in
particular to Mr. Savage, I subscribe myself, with sincerest regard
and friendship,
Your very obedient servant,
WILLIAM WILLSHIRE.
Captain James Riley.
APPENDIX. 54^
Tangier y 2", ill April, 1816.
Sir, •
I have not earlier acknowledged the receipt of your favour,
dated Gibraltar, 1st February, desirous of being able to give you
some satisfactory intelligence regarding the men whom circumstan-
ces compelled you to separate from on the Desart. Until yester-
day, not any tidings of them had reached me. — Mr. Willshire, in
his letter of the 13th this month, advises me he had received Irom
Widnoon a note written by William Porter, but such as did not
afford any information respecting his fellow sufferers, as the poor
man seems to be but an indifferent scribe. Mr. Willshire adds,
*' It however affords me the sincerest pleasure to acquaint you that
by intelligence from Moorish acquaintances, 1 have received news
that there are three others in that neighbourhood."
Mr. Willshire had already taken the necessary measures for the
redemption of the four — had he known the names of the three he
would have mentioned them. In a few days I ma}' expect to re-
ceive further intelligence, at the return of an express I sent to that
gentleman on the 3d instant. I muit, in the mean time, tell you,
that £ very much dread we shall have difficulties to encounter, in
regard to the rate of redemption, because of the unguarded (though,
it must be admitted, very natural) conduct of the passengers who
were on board the Glasgow brig, in making great promises, in the
view of accelerating their emancipation. These, and five seamen,
had already unfortunately fallen into the hands of Sidi Ishem ; he
was endeavouring to obtain possession of the remainder, and had
demanded of the Governor of Tarudant better than seven thousand
dollars for the seventeen persons. Should he not be authorized by
the Emperor to pay this sum, 1 am persuaded the owners of the
brig will do it, rather than allow their relations to continue in the
deplorable situation you so well know. It matters not from what
source this villanous demand may be satisfied ; the event will ope-
rate for a time against the liberation of Christians in similar si-
tuations at the vi-(ial rates. It grieves me to think that we run the
risk of being uKale early partakers of that more than probable con-
sequence, so much to be deplored.
My family are thankful for your remembrances, and encharge
me to assure you of their good wishes.
I am, with regard, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
JAMES SIMPSON.
Captain James Rileij.
Mogadorcy May 6, 1816.
My DEAR SJR,
I had the pleasure on the 14th ult. of informing you of four
men of the crew of tlie late brig Commerce being near Widnoon.
550 APPEITDIX.
I have since received a letter from William Porter, who acquaint-
ed me of Archibald Robins being one of them ; the names of the
others he does not allude to, nor that they are in the vicinity — it is
very unfortunate that he scarcely knows how to write, and I can
hardly make out his letters.
I am sincerely sorry to observe, that Porter mentions two men
to have unfortuiiately died, and who have gone to " that bourne
from whence no traveller returns ;" but whom, when, and where,
he does not state. I am still inclined to believe, that the four I
first mentioned, are in the neighbourhood of Widnoon, as I have
received several letters from those parts, in all of which four Ame-
ricans are stated to be in that vicinity. As the above circum-
stances, if made public, will only be the cause of regret to the
friends in general of those unfortunate men, I consider it advisable
not to make the same known at present, until I can transmit the
names of those two unfortunate men, who have been released from
the troubles and miseries of this world, I trust for a better state of
existence. I expect shortly to hear from my friend in Suse, re-
specting the sum demanded for the ransom of Porter and Robins,
and the other two, if they are still living. I assure you that in all
my communications respecting the English crew in captivity, 1
always call the attention of my friends to their liberation, and I
trust shortly to hear something favourable in regard to their re-
lease.
This letter I have the pleasure to forward you, per the ship
Wanderer, of Middletowu, Captain Daniel Hubbard, from whom,
being your townsman. I have received the sincerest satisfaction, by
hearing mention made of my friend, in terms the most flattering,
and grateful to my heart ; and this has been a further cause of con-
gratulation to myself; and I am thankful that under the care of an
all ruling Providence, I was the means of rescuing from the hands
of barbarians, a fellow-Christian and a triend. The English crevr
have been upwards of four months in captivity. I have used every
exertion for their redemption in my power, but they have proved
unavailing, from the w;int of that prompt and decisive assistance
which 1 should have aftorded, had not the funds in my possession
been under the restriction of first making on their behalf an appli-
cation to his Impeiial Majesty of Morocco. The Governor of
Tarudant refuses to pay their ransom, say 6 to 7000 dollars, and
he appears to throw obstacles in my way, not being willing to pay
the money, or allow me to do it.
I beg my dear friend to reiterate my good wishes for your fu-
ture welfare, under the blessing of divine Providence, and remain
unalterably, my de;ir Sir,
Your very obedient servant,
WILLIAM WILLSHIRE.
Captain James Riley,
APPENDIX. 551
Tangier, May 27, 1816.
D&AR Sir,
T'his day month 1 bad the satisfaction of writing to you in
duplicate, by way of Gibraltar and Cadiz.
Yesterday I received a letter from Mr. Willshire, dated 12tb
this month, informing me he had received a second note from Porter,
but without any further intelligence of his former companions, save
the unhappy circumstance of two of them having paid the debt of
nature — untbrtunately tie does not mention when, where, or even
their names.
Mr. Willshire has received a confirmation of there being four,
including Porter, of the crew of the Commerce, in the district of
Widnoon ; which, as he states, are in tact all that remain.
It does not appear whether it be your former master that has
brought the men to Widnoon, or not, but I should suppose it is,
and that he does not fulfil his promise to you, as Mr. Willshire ac-
quainted me, one hundred and fifty dollars ransom was demanded
for each. This I have instantly determined to pay, and set the
unfortunate men at liberty, persuaded government will approve of
my not writing for instructions, at the imminent risk of the peo-
ple's lives.
The crew of the Glasgow brig were still with Sidi Ishem. Af-
ter many delays started on the part of the Governor of Tarudant,
Mr. Willshire, on the pressing invitation of the Messrs. Blacks, has
taken upon himself to pay the ransom, and had sent down five
thousand dollars in part, in full confidence the people would be
sent him. I am persuaded their ransom and expenses will exceed
your's in proportion to numbers.
Consul Green's application to the Emperor hrs occasioned them
full three months prolongation of their misery. I have for many-
years experienced the uncertainty of that mode. However pure
his Majesty's intentions, his servant's dread of expending monies
of the Treasury, but for ostensible public purposes, will thwart
them.
** I am, dear Sir,
^' Your most obedient servant,
^ JAMES SIMPSON.
Captain James Riley.
1\ 6. Mr. Willshire mentions that Archibald Robins is one of
the three he has heard of, besides Porter.
Mogadore, l]th June, 1816.
My dear and esteemed FRrEND,
These tew lines I forward by the schooner Rebecca, David
Eaton master, bound for Boston, on which I have loaded 220 bales
{^oat skins.
352 APPENDIX.
I am expecting the four men, formerly part of your crevr, up
from Widnoon, in about twenty days. 1 am not acquainted with
their names, except those of William Porter and Archibald Robins.
On the 8th inst. I had the pleasure to effect the release of the cap-
tain, passengers, and crew, seventeen in number, of the British
brig Surprise, wrecked on the coast of Suse, the 28th December
last, when bound from Glasgow to Jamaica. The ransom money
paid WAsJive ihouand dollars, and with expenses of presents, &c.
&c. I calculate will amount ultimately to more than seven thousand
dollars.
I am anxiously expectini:; to bear of your safe arrival, as that
will afford me the greatest satisfaction.
1 remain, in great haste, but with the greatest esteem, my dear
friend,
Your very obedient servant,
WILLIAM WILLSHIRE.
Captain James Riley.
Department of State, ^'ith June, 1816.
Dear Sir,
We have just received a letter from Mr. Simpson, Consul at
Tangier, dated 10th May, in which he says Mr. Willshire had
written to him on the 13th April, that he had received a note from
" William Porter," one of your crew, written at Widnoon, and in-
formation from a Moor that three others of your crew had got to the
same place. Mr. Willshire knew not how they had been enabled
to get there, or whether they had or had not changed masters.
He had taken measures to convey information to Widnoon that he
would ransom these men. It is therefore to be hoped that they
will be ultimately restored to their country and their families ;
more particularly, as instructions have been sent to Mr. Simpson,
authorizing him to pay what may be necessary to accomplish that
object. As I have supposed that this information would be satis-
factory to you and the friends of the persons to whom it relates, I
have hastened to communicate it to you.
With great respect,
I am, dear Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
JOHN GRAHAM.
Captain James Riley.
Note — Mr. John Graham, the writer of the above, is Chief
Clerk in the Department of Slate, Washington City.
Tangier, 24th July, 1816,
Dear Sir,
Yesterday I received by way of Gibraltar and Tariffa your
favour of the 28th April. — Since my last to you of 27th May, for-
warded in duplicate under care of Messrs. Hall k Co. of Cadiz,
APPENDIX. 553
*i have not received any further certain intelligence of your people,
save that Mr. Willshire says in his last, of 27th June, Porter's
master had not answered a letter, in which he invited him to bring
the man to Mogadore.
I availed of the earliest opportunity of sending Mr. Willshire
eight hundred dollars, and authorized him to pay in the country,
the sum of one hundred and fifty dollars each, for the ransom of
Porter, and the three others he hSd heard of. He has acknow-
ledged the receipt of this money, and I am persuaded you will be-
lieve he will have lost no time in employing it for the good purpose
it was intended.
On the 1 1th inst. I received the authority which the Honourable
the Secretary of State informed you would be handed to me, re-
specting the redemption of citizens of the United States, from the
cruel bondage that Christians experience whilst in the power of the
Arabs. It is extremely satisfactory to me, that I had in a great de-
gree anticipated those orders in the directions given Mr. Willshire :
however, I have sent an expref:s with further instructions, in or-
der to expedite the good work the most in my power.
I am infinitely obliged by your kind offers of service, and will
certainly avail myself thereof, but being pressed for time to-day,
and anxious to send this by return of the boat, mast beg your indul-
gence for further particulars until my next.
His Imperial Majesty, Muley Soliman, arrived here on Monday ;
hitherto we do not know what stay he may make.
^ I remain, with great regard,
Dear Sir,
V, Your most obedient Servant,
*' JAMES SIMPSON.
Captain, James Riley.
Mogadore, October 29, 1816.
My very dear friend,
1 have had the extreme pleasure to receive your esteemed let-
ter of the 27th April, (the others you allude to have never come
to hand,) and the interesting account of your meeting with your
family and friends, produced in my breast sensations of the most
pleasing nature, such as words cannot fully describe. The interest
I take in your welfare makes every circumstance of importance ;
let me request of you not to allow an opportunity to pass without
writing tome. I cannot find words to exfiress the sensations I feel
when I come to that passage of your letter where you inform me
your youngest son, by the general request of Mrs. Riley, your
family and friends, has been named William Willshire — the com-
pliment thus paid to my family I shall always consider as one of
the most honourable circumstances I can ever experience in my life.
1 know not what to say. May your son grow up into manhoodj
4.B
55i APPENDIX.
adorned with every virtue, and may the choicest blessings of an
all ruling Providence bf; particularly extended to him in tijis life,
and continued through a never ending eternity.
I have now to acquaint you that 1 redeemed William Porter on
the 27th ultimo, (redemption money, one hundred and sixfy-three
dollars,) and yesterday I agreed for the ransom oi Archibald Robins.
If nothing extraordinary intervenes, 1 expect he will arrive here in
about sixteen days from this time. I havp also news of two men
who I think must be a part of your crew, being in the vicinity of
Widnoon — their names I do not knuw, but I have sent a courier
to them to bring up information, and if possible, to obtain their
hand-writing. I have also heard of another man being a con-
siderable way down on the Desart, and I have ordered my agent in
Suse to send a Muor to purchase him if possible. I have the great-
est pleasure to acquaint you, that at last I am not tied down to a
few dollars, more or less, as Mr. Simpson has limited me only
to the average price which was paid for yourself and companions.
I beg you will excuse my not writing more fully by this occa-
sion, which is that of the brig AJriano, Captain Richard Motley,
bound to Boston. William Porter takes his passage in the vessel.
This letter will be forwarded x)n to New-York, and also a Moorish
bridle, as you requested. I do trust you will not hesitate to com-
mand me at all times without reserve, in these parts, as it will
afford me the greatest pleasure to execute your wishes, and I ex-
pect it from the friendship existing between us. I intend shortly
to write you a long letter on the manners and customs of this coun-
try, with a more particular account of the stations for the caravans
in crossing the Desart of Sahara to Tombuctoo, than is at present
extant.
I remain, with every good wish and prayers for your prosperity,
most unfeignedly and truly.
My dearest Friend,
Your well wisher,
WILLIAM WILLSHIRE,
Captain James Riley.
? have no time to re-peruse what I have written, — 'Adieu.
AN ARABIC ANI> ENGLISH VOCABULARY.
This Vocabulary was furnished the author by his benefactor,
William Willshirk, Esq. British Vice Consul and American
Consular Agent at Mogadore, or Swearah. It has since been re-
vised in New-York by the Baron Lescalier, late Consul General of
the French empire in the United Stales of America, who is versed
in the Oriental languages.
As it was penned by Europeans, and from the apparent sounds of
words, it must naturally be defective, and not so correct as if
formed by a native Arab who understood both languages perfectly,
yet it is presumed to be sufficiently correct to enable the studious
scholar to obtain a very considerable knowledge both of the genius
and structure of this parent of languages.
An easy method for attaining the Arabic language, as it is spoke*
by the Moors and the Arabs of Morocco, and understood by the
Moors and Arabs of South Barbary and the great Western Desart,
though the language of the wandering Arabs of the Desart is the
pure and sonorous ancient Arabic tongue. The letters with which
this Vocabulary is written, must be pronounced and sounded as the
Spaniards pronounce them; that is, every letter has its full sound,
and most of them are spoken with the mouth open, thus :
A always broad, as ah
N an
B ba
oh
C sa
P pa
D da
Q cue
£ a
R arr
F af
8 ess
G jkegh, (but extremely guttural
T ta
from the bottom of the throat.)
U oo
H ha
V va
I ee
W wa
J Jay
X eklcs,
K kah
Y e
L al
Z daa.
M am
THE ARABIC ALPHABET.
Value Names
A Alif
B
R
Z
S
SJ
s
D
T
D
y
G
C
L
M
N
W
H
J
La
Be
Te
TZ Thze
G Gzim
H Ijha
CH Cha
D Dal
DZ Dhzal
Re
Ze
Sin
Sjin
Sad
Dad
Ta
Da
Ain
Ghain
PH Phe
K Kaf
Kef
Lam
Mim
Nun
Wau
Ghe
Je
Lamalif
Initials
z-
z
3
I
o
Centrals
\
Finals*
1^
i
vciy
Ocx?
ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY.
OF PERSONAL PRONOUNS.
Singular.
Plural.
I
of me
to me
anna us
anny of ut
Lea • to us.
banna
&nn&
Lena
Thou
of thee
to thee
Enta-» You
ank of you
Lik to you
entume
%nkura
Likum
He
of him
to bim
whoa They
anno of them
Leh to them
FEMININE GENDER.
Hume
anhume
Lihume
She
of her
to her
Hea they
anha of them
liha to them
PRONOUNS POSSESSIVE.
bune
anhune
lihune
Mine
thine
his
emtay or dealy Ours i
emtak or dealik yours <
emtao or dealoo theirs
emtiiina or dealna
entaakum or dealkum
cntaahum dealhum
OF PRONOUNS DEMONSTRATIVE.
This
of this
to this
hadda These
anhadda of these
elhadda ' to these
h adder
anhaddi
likaddi
That
of that
to that
haddik Those
anhiddik of those
lihaddik to those
OF PRONOUNS RELATIVE.
hadduck
anhadduck
lihadduck
Which amaho, or ascoon, or min, ) ^„„ ,„ .,„„ , „„
which of them amaho fy him, or ashcunfy hum, > "??7 °^ "^®° *"
or minfy hum, ) ^"^^■
OF PRONOUNS NUMERICAL
Every Kul
all kulshy
many shilla, or bizef, or yeser
every one kul wahud
none makine or makansky
nobody batta wahud
whosoe\-er kinemin kan
IV
VOCABULARY.
DAYS OF THE WEEK.
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
El Tennins
El Tlafta
El Arba
EI Chemm's
EI Gemaa.
Sibt
EI had
The Mohamedan months being lunar ones, do not correspond with the
Christian Calendar. I shall therefore only put them down in their order, as
they are called.
1. El Mohawam
2. Saffer
3. Arabia
4. Warabia
5. Jed-Coole
6. Jumad
7. Rajeb
8. Sh^bban
9. Rhamadan
10. Shual
11. Du elcaad
12. Du elhadga.
The numerals are the same in Arabic as those in general use among civi-
lized nations.
Wahad
Tnine
Thlatta
Arbaa
Cumstra
Sta
Sbaa
8 Semeniah
9 Tzuod
10 Ashra
11 Adash
12 Tnash
13 Tltash
14 Arbaatash
15 Cumstash
16 Staash
1^ Sbaatash
18 Semenstash
19 Tsatash
20
Ashreen
30
Eateen
40
Arbaain
50
Cumsteen
60
Steen
70
Sbain
80
Scmenheift
90
Tzhain
100
Miat
200
Miatine
300
Tlmiat
400
Arbamia
500
Cumsmia
600
Stamia
700
Sbamia
800
Tmiamia
900
Tzoudmia
1000
Allif
1,000,000
Aliine
VOCABULARY.
«od
God the Father
Jesus Christ
The Holy Ghost
Our Lady, or the Virgin Maiy
Our Creator
Our Redeemer
The creation
The creatures
A creature
Atlah
Allah el Ab
Aisa El Messiab
Ruh El Kodo8
Sida Mirim
Mucbalikona
Mucholsona
£1 chalika
El chalik
ehalka
VOCABULARY.
A body
A spirit
Heaven or paradis*
The heavens
An angel
Angels
Tiie saints
A prophet — holy proph«t
Hell
The devil
Damned, Plural
ELEIVIENTi.
Fire
Air
Earth
Water
The sea
The sky
A star
The stars
The sun
The moon
The light
Darkness
The heat
The cold
The wind
East
West
Fine weather
A cloud
Clouds
The rain
Hail
Snovr
A fog
Lightning
Thunder
A thunderbolt
An earthquake
Earthquakes
OF TLME.
Day
Night '
Morning
Evening
Mid-day, or noon
Midnight
Sunrise
Sunstit
Nar
£1 hawa
Trub : or Elurdh
Elm Ha
El M'Bahar
Ima
Eiijemma
£1 enjum
Shim
EI kummer
Thou
Tholom
Skanna
El bird
Reah
I'herke; or. Mo-
sharik
Elgharbe ; or,
Mogharik
Teab
Jahb
Juhab
El matar ; or sbeta
Tebr^ra
Tilje
Thebob
El berb ; or, show
Radb
Zahakka
Zibzilla
ZiUarill
EL WAKAT.
Enbor
Lite
Sebah
Ashea
Elule
Mintusf lile
Taba& shims
Ruh shioM
£1 gezib
Rub
Ginna
Samawat
Melk
El Melika
Sail) hine
Is'abi, Rahsul
Gehennem, or gahim
Shutan, Iblis, ado
Molaunin.
A holiday
A festival
To-day
To- morrow
Yesterday
After to-morrow
Before yesterday
A year
A month
A week
A day
An hour
A minute
A century
Eternity
Beginning
Middle
End
MANKIND.
A man
A woman
An old man
An old woman
A young man
A young woman
A boy
A girl
A virgin
A giant
A dwarf
The body
The head
Neck
Eye, or eyes
Nose
Mouth
Lips
Teeth
Chin
Throat
Eyebrows
Aide
Frash
Leume
Agada
Yearns, or elbarrah
Raad agadda
Ool zeemis
Aame, or senna
Shahar
Jemkk
Eume, or uhor
Saat
Dirga
Zille, or zile, be-
ing 40 years in-
stead of 100
Abaden
Wftle,orel bidion
El wasHt
El mentehy
EL INSE.
Insan, or regal
Mawa, orenba
Slieick kiber, or
agus
Azuza
Shebeb
Asba
Soby, or ishire
Ishira
Akkoa, or oibau
A frit
Bohabbuz
Csed
Ras
Rackaba
Ain, or ainin
Mauuchar
Fum
Shwarl
Sneen
Elhaya
Gursuma
Elhuazl
VI
VOCABULARY.
The cheeks
El chudun
A dream
Mennem or hel-
The jaws
£1 hank
ium
The bosom
Shun
Beauty
Lin
Breast
Idder
Ugliness
Ukshinna
Bubby
Ted
Lean
Deaa
Nipple
Bezesle, or N'hud
Fat
Smin
The shoulders
El kittef
The speech
El kallam
The arm
Draa
Right arm
Dra^ limminaa
THE FIVE SENSES.
Left arm
Draa shemmella,
or Draa lisewa
Sight
El bisseer or Nad-
Hand
Lid
zer
Right hand
Lid limminna
Hearing
El semm&SL
Left hand
Lid lisewa
Smelling
El shihim
Palm of the hand
EUafdehid
Taste
Eidaa
The fingers
Suabla
Feeling
El miss
A finger
Tebaa
The nails
Teifur or ludjfur
OF THE SOUL.
A nail
Kffuwa
A joint
Enfwzzee
The soul
R8h or ruak
A nerve
Larek or laroke
The minJ
Ensemma
A vein
Ei hel
The will
El chatter
The belly
Elbutton or el
Dulness
TukkuUa
crish
Liveliness
Fiakka
The back
Dhar
Forgetfulness
Ensiane
The navel
Sowa
Wisdom
El akkel or fe-
The reins
Mi slen
hemma
The ribs
Deluaa
Folly
El chuffa
A rib
Dlaa
Love
Mohabbat
The thighs
El Fechud
Hatred
Laaif
The knee
Reckaba
Faith
Uiman
The legs
Regelline
Hope
Ergai
A leg
Regel
Fear
El chuff el or
The heel
Kaddom
huft
The toes
Suabbaa reyelline Suspicion, doubt Shlek or Sheack
The flesh
El ham
Boldness
Rackubba
The skin
Jilda
Shame
El basbamnia
The bones
Laadum
Envy
El hassed
The blood
Dem
Trust or confi
- Tekk ela I confi-
The fat
Shaham
dence
de m God tik-
The heart
El knlb
ket aloallah
The guts or bow-
' Emsiaan
Wrath
El gadub
els
Pity
El hen
The lungs
Tahan
Mercy
Elrah'mma
The liver
El K'ibela
The kidneys
El k'lowey
OF CLOTHING.
The gall
Elmaravva
The bladder
El M'bula
Clothes
Tube or howria
A coat
Caftan
PROPERTIES OF THE BODY.
Waistcoat
Woundia
A shirt
Cummiza (Spz«-
Laughter
Dahack
ish)
Weeping
El Bekka
An upper shirt
or Chamir
The breath or life Elsheimma
cassock
A groan
Enheyda
A cap
Sheshia
A belch
Gerraa
Shoes
Belea
Sleep
Num or Nass
Turbant muslia Czza
Mooring
Sekoor
Turbant silk
Hazam I'hewire
.VOCABULARY.
vu
A belt
Belt buckle
Covering
Cloth cloak
Woollen do.
Handkerchief
Breeches
A comb
A spur
A watch
Spectacles
Razor
Umdurama
Elbezime
Alhaik
Dira
Sulham
Sebannia
Suwaival
Mishta
Maliemmez
Maganna
Endavvat
El mouze
PARENTAGE.
WOMEN'S CLOTHING.
Smock
Head dress
Bracelets
Woman's shoes
Necklace
Buckles
Robe
Camisa (Spanish,
the Arabs have
no word for it)
Shurb wo labroik
Enbile or debeige
Rahya
Laced
Khullallat
Cafftan
The Father
The mother
The parents or
relatives
One relative op
relation
Child
A son
A daughter
A grandfather
A grandmother
A sister
A brother
An uncle
An aunt
A cousin
OF VICTUALS.
Food
Provisions
Breakfast
Dinner
Supper
Bread
Flour
Bran
Biscuit
Meat
Boiled meat
Roat'^ed meat
Mutton
Beef
Pork
Broth
Milk
Butter
Cheese
An egg
Oil
Vinegar
Spice
Ginger
Cinnamon
Wine
Brandy
Beer
Cotfee
Eldest or
born
A nephew
Ita^m
Lawin
M'llftore
Elgada
Lasha
£1 khobs
Dekik
Enkhella
Elbagmot
El ham
Elbam sluok
Elharn emshuey
EI gi'.ilemraee
El buc;gri
El hailuff or
rhunsirg
£1 murka
£1 helHb
Sinin orzibda
Jibbin
Bida
Elbide
Zit
El Khul
Libsjor
Skin jibier
Elcurfa
Shrob el kha-
mar
Mahaya or Araky
Cervesa (Spanish)
Rawa
first-
A niece
Posterity
A wife
A husband
Son-in-law
Daughter-in-law
A wedding
Bridegroom
Bride
To woo or court
A widow
An orphan
A midwife
A neighbour
A companion
Ebab
Elume
£1 vvoldin'e
si walad
Goyett (female
goyetta
Ben
Bent
Ajid
Jida
Khut
Khaa
Elam
Ebamt
Ben am or ben
amt
Ei beker, femin,
bikkra
Ben khaa or ben
khfit
Bizt khut
Drea
Muwa
Bale
Ensibe
Ensiba
Larz
Aaruz
Aarosa
Khattut
Hajella
Kim (plural ne
mina
Kabia
Zar
Ashir
TRADESMEN.
A baker
A butcher
A carpenter
A fisherman
A blacksmith
A shoe maker
A silversmith
A Tailor
A Weaver
A tradesman
A merchant
A captain of a ship
A captain of sol-
diers
A governor
A scrivener
Khubbaz
Gazer
Engur
Hewat
Huddud
Bhawas
SeeS&g
Khekt
Dewaz
Musebbeb
Tezjar
RaVz
Kaid or al kaid
Haikem
Talke
VIII
VOCABULARY.
A sailor
Bahawec
A brick
Eagora
A soldier
Askaror jindy
A plate
Sayfore
A horseman
Ferr
Household
Ustenals
A foot soldier
Romm6
A knife
Jenoury or skinC
An Auctioneer
Delai
A fork
Guifo
A Player
Zephan
A spoon
Mo^urfa
A Broker
Sansae
A cloth
Zeef
A servant
Muttuaal'm
A table cloth.
Zeef del meda
A substitute
El wakil
Salt
Millhe
A Mason
Binni
Pepper
Filfil
A Sadler
Skrijee
Vinegar
Khul
A Tanner
Deag
A small glass
Cass, a small one
A Farrier
Albitar
sgear
A glass
Kesan
OF A TOWN.
Bread
Khohs
A town
Med.na
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
A village
Dechiera
A camp of Arabs
Dfthar
As
Bdaw
A street
Senka or emhaje
Always
Dima
A lane
Shabba
Any
Shvvi
A house
Dor or bait
An ass
Hammer
A marketplace
Sock
Ask
Sab
A slaughter house
Emslockh
Angry
Mifeullah
A church
Jama&
An arm
Lid
A school
Emdursa
Again
Olid tenna
A prison
Elhabs
Art
Snaw
A bedlam or mad-
• Murstaa
As
Sal a
house
Abated
Jullie
Abridge
Alcantra
Abate
Juliet
A castle
Elcasaba
A bag
Mersakhamgst
Walls
Suor
Advantage
Seida
The battlements
Scakul
Afraid
Kuft
The embrasures
Shrurf
Against
Cuddem
A bastion
Burge
Aggravate
Ettau
The gates
El babine
Alarm
Laita
A gate
Elbab
Arms weapons
Lenda
An army
Mhehlla
OF A HOUSE.
Ashamed
Hashav
Affable
Emshsok
A house
Dor or beit
Along
Twell
The walls
El haiut
And
Wa
The rooms
El bicut
Already
Calshe,ormojeud
The stairs
Durruje
Afterwards
Nora Deakihe
The well
Elbir
After
Manura
The stable
Rua
Able
Mesow
The shop
El hamflt
Anger
Mfeaw
A lock
Luik fill
Amber
Luben
A bolt
Zekkrum
Agreeable
Hackadaw
A window
Rehaha
Affection
Arzeif
The ceiling
Skuff
Ancle
Elcaba
The threshold
Lattabaa
An angel
Mdik
A key
Emfutah or sa-
Ashes
Rummad
nuich
Abbreviate
Useer
The kitchen
Clichina
Old age
Sherf
A garden
La^rsa
Agree
Taddle
Afield
Faden
Alone
Thiluewahad
A stone
Kejarr
Hsadach
Wozha,elrass
VOCABULARY.
IX
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
Toothache
VVozhado ninen
Black
Khali
America
Belad el hand
A bee
N'hell
Appear
Dahgr or ben
To be
Ecun
Ancient
Agoose
Beads
Lochelk
Alive
Roath aish
Beam
L'lamud
Arrive
L'liuick
Beans
Elful
Aiiniseeds
Habdtle balluk
Beard
H^a
April
Abcid
Benst
Bima
Air
Sma
Beautiful
Zine
Accidental
Cuddeeloh
Because
Hait
Advice or news
Gabon
Abed
L'frush
Aim
Kise
Beef
Elliam
Alike
Phall
Been
Coont
Article
M'Sella
Before
Cutble
As many
Phall madgaut
Beg
Club
As long
Toulraadg^evir
Begin
Bedow
Above
Lfock or clfoke
Isle
Cun cova
Almost
Culshe aleine
I believe
Doriy
Alone
Ohadda
He believes
Dorlua
About
Crib
Bellows
Kheer
Another
Ochor .
Him
Emena
Almonds
Leuzh
You
Emenk
Sweet
L'hellee
Bench
Setta
Bittei-
L'liarr
Benefit
Feida
Ache
Wozha
Better
Hassn
Account
Lassib
Between
Bine
Although
Before
Elsfill
Approve
Ala Cottre
Beneath
Ultat
Agony
Wosha
Beware
Ballack
Amongst
xMa
Bread
El khubbs
Ague
Elhemmau
Breeches
Sunvale
A barber
Hossam
Breakfast
Lugdaw
Bad
Cobe
Open
Hell
A basket
Luckfaw
Bleed
Zheud
Black
Mekchall
Breast
Sidder
Barrel
Brimmell
The belly
L creish
Bacon
Helloof
Breach
Tremau
Brandy
Maheia
Beyond
Tim a
Bachelor
Azari
Bear, to bring
Woold
Back
Manora
forth
Backward
Luora
Bitter
Elhorr
Bag
L chkunisba
Blind
Aour
Bake
Tibe
Brimstone
Kebbzheel
Ballast
Tabora
Big
Kibive
A bull
Cura
A bird
Tier-tierez
Bar
Barra
Bite
Aud
Barbary
Berberri
A bridle
Eljam
A bargain
Shehal
Biggest
Cabur
A hark
Ubab
Bid or tell
Gule
Embark
Claw
A bitclt
Kelliba
Breath
Makau naffs
Both
Barhoiize
Basin
Zlifa
Of them
Humabavhouze
To baste
Dhen
Of us
Juzenou
A battle
Traddaw
A book
Esmini
Blame
Delum
A bottle
EltM-aa
Bran
N khulla
A boy
Lishere
Brains
Biauch
Brother
2
Khow
VOCABULARY.
ENGLISH.
His brother
Your brother
My brother
Broom
A board
Boil
A boat
Blood
Let blood
A bone
The bosom
A body
Nobody
The bottom
I bought
He bought
Bi-oth
Broad
Borrow
Blow
Bold
A blow
Bora
A box
A brake
Broil it
A bond
A bntcher
Buy
Blue
Buttocks
Butler
Button
hole
A building
A cap
A candle
Acandlestjcfe
Call
Care
I can
A cannon
Cards
Canaries
A camel
A calf
Cadiz
Cabbage
Charity
A cane
A cat
A captain
Chalk
Charcoal
A carrot
Carrots
J5v cbanta
ARABIC.
Khou'na
Laou'kor dealk
Khou'y or dealy
Sh-tabbah
L'luah or wessa
Giillie
ENGLISH.
A chain
A castle
A chair
A carpet
Caramomile
A crack
Felucca or zuerga Catch
Dim
Lhiekor Zooldim
Landum
Shorrie
Hed
Hattawahad
Efeau
Sheerau
Hnasheerau
Elniuzk
Wassaw
Silf
Soot or lafia
Gundore
Twisha
Jaiiak
Sanduk
Tau
Shur
Locud
Igzer
Shree .
Zurk
Elb
Zibda
Lacud
Cattne iacad
Elbinian
Sashia
Eshma
Labskha
Hodde
Aona Cudder
Lunfod
Curshell
Canaria
Ghemel
Catch it
A case
Carry it
A carpenter
Changed
Cheap
To cheat
Clean
Certainly
Cheese
Chew or eat
Clear
A city
A chimney
Cinnamon
The church
Circumcise
A christian
A cloak
A closet
Cloth
Olouds
Cloves
A cubit
A coat
A cock
A coffin
Cold
It is cold
Colours
A comb
Come
Company
Consider
Content
Continued
Copper
Corner
Lahzell orLahzila A cork
Cools
Leerumb
Skidaw
Lassaw
L Kattus
Rais
Elgibs
Eltam
Wo had Geez
Seeza
^la bubbela
Correspondent
It cost
Cotton
Cotton for lamps
Cover it
It's covered
Count it
or reckon
Country
This country
Countryman
ARABIC.
Silsella •
L hucksauba
Coossey
Zurbea
Orezad
Eshkau
Cubt
Cubtu
Setidock
Urfcd
Unzhor
Biddle
Reckiss
L wush
Nuckey
Belhaek
Jibhen
Koof
Saphu
M'dina
Mooda takhoon
Eleurfaw
Zliama
Khuttan
Sarau
Dira
Shidu
Mil
Shuhab
Nuar
Draw
Cuftan
Wohad Dick
Bsendook
Elburd
Bird I'halle
Loon
Musta
Azhe
Ishma
Cunnaw
Uhkau
Nhass
Bahanna
Toppa
Sahab
Emsheree
L'Cutten
Elftela
Gullec
M'Giclle©
Ilassaboo
Hassub
L'Bled
Had L'Bled
Ronannp'
VOCABULARY.
XI
ENGLISH.
Courage
A cow
Crooked
Coinmatid
A cou»h
A cook
A clock
A table cloth
Cunning
A cup
A cure
Cut it
Cut llieni
The cram
Tlie crust
To-day
Two days
Thiee days
A day
A daughter
A fine day
Four daughter
Danger
Another day
Tiiere is no dan-
ger
Dark
Dates
Date- tree
Dance
Dead
Death
Dear — costly
My dear
Deceive
Deceitful
Deep
Delay
Deny
Depart
Deaf
The devil
Dress
Drink
A dinner
A dish
I Discharge
Discourse
Despatch
A door
A drop
Drunk
Dust
Dung
Ducat
A drum
I have
ARABIC.
Rakaba
L'Buckrau
Madzhe
M Cuddorn
Satia
Magunna
Zeef de almaeda
Shetter
Tassa
Dorea
Cutferu
Cutlum
Liftata
Leum
Leiiiuiine
Tlteuin
N hor
Bint
Milleah
Bintick
K'hoff
JN'lior ocher
Mottama khoff
D'lura or d'luma
T'luurr
Nacland imur
Eshlau
Matt
Ozriel
Golley
Ozftlle
Wush
Wushork
Husk
Ottle
ISeur
Danick L'ha
Tursh
Iblitz
Tubuhh
Shrub
Liftre
Tyfor
Ciuek
Hadera
Fossell
L'bebb
Cuttra
Skhran
Gubbera
Zebble
MI'coll
Tabeeic
Ande
ENGLISH.
I have it
Each
Ears
Early
Eat
Eggs
Example
Empty
Explain
Eyes
Enemy
Excrements
Express
Time
Day
Enough
Equal
Fair
False
Farther
A fart
A fault
A favsur
Faithful
Friday
A flea
Fry
Fear
Feathers
A few
A ay
Feeble
Free
Frequently
Fish
A fe%'er
Flesh
Fight
Friend
My friend
Afield
Figs
Fine
Fingers
Fire
First
Fishers
Fit
A flint
The fist
A file
A fog
A fool
Foolish
My foot
Forget
Foul
ARABIC
Andewooa
Luden
Beeree
Coole
L'Bide
Lorborr
Kho wey
Emfursa
Ainin
Adorch
Craw
Correo
Murra
Nhor
Igfah : cloas;
Gau %vahad
Zine
Moushuse
Baida hattea
Hassuck
Aibe
Ishmeel
Hohkirky
Nhor Zhema
Burgot
Cuilee
Hoft
Reish
Debia
Dife
M'shurrah
Dima
Elljawt
Elsconna
Elham
Fatten
Sahab
Sahaby
Fidan
Carmouse
Zine
Sabau
Lafia
Looly
Whoutten
Tabdt
Ishfurr
Dibsaw
Elmbird
Dhabeb
Hamuck
Hammuck
Urgill
Insa
MusL
Xll
VOCABULARY.
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
ENGLISH.
A fowl
Juis
Hunting
A fox
Deeb
A hundred
From
Men
Ink
The forehead
Slaw
Ink box
A fork
Guifo
A jack
Formerly *■
Ahberden
Ajar
Flour
DrteTteek
Is it
A floor
II -us
I mvself
Fruit
Fackia
A keg
Full
Manmer
A knife
A funnel
Inilif
The kitchen
Garlick
Turn in
A kettle
A garden
Isbnan
I know
A glass
L cass
Lamp
Grapes
Unnull
Lantern
Gall
Elmurrare
He laughed
Grave
Elutaibbur
Law
Generous
Eljuad
A lame man
Greens
Liiider
Lead
Uinger
Skingebear
Less
Good
Milliah
A letter
Goods
Slaw
A lie
Goats
Latruse
The legs
Flesh
Mazie
Legs
Governor
L'aayd
Leprosy
Gum
Lalk
A little
The guts
Limsurne
Linen
The hair
Shar
Light me
A hat
Sombrero
Light it
A hammer
M'brucka
A louse -^
The hand
Lid
A lock
Hark
Skoot
A maid
A handle
Elcubtan
A countryman
Hail*1some
Zine
A mat
Happy
Mushran
Marrow
A hatchet
Schock bore
Ale
Here
Hanna
Measure' it
Head
Rass
Meat
The heart
Elculb
The mint
Heaven
G'inna
To-morrow
Hell
G'eheunim
A month
A hedge-hog
Elenfood
Last month
Hide it
Otte
The moon
A hill
Zhebel
More
Hides
Gam moose
Money
Hot
Skhunna
My mother
A horse
Laud
So much
An hour
Saw
Mustard .
A house
Dorr
Mutton
Our house
Dorna
A mug
Your house
Dorcum
Monday
His house
Darruo
Nails
Their house
Donum
A napkin
Old housu
Doii kudima
A needle
A horseman
EUarree
IVeedless
A holiday
Laid
News
A hog
Helloof
A pot
ARABIC.
Seed
Mia
Limded
Daya
Noura
Khuabbea
Wosh
Anna
Sericte
Sennowy
Arish
Tuifna
JMorf
Leundeel
L'ifnar
Khack
Elshra
Larse
Bursus
Cull
L'braw
Kedibba
Regcell
Reg, elline
Ishdem
Sivi
L'Khittan
Shall hanna
Shall haddick
Elcomlaw
Link fell
Lasba
Buz lemin bledwe
Lassaia
Elmuch
Anna
Obberwo
L'Ham
Desk ha
Agada
Shore
Shore elockhre
El kuramer
Mazell
Drahim Lemimat'
Jema or Ima
Cud
Mustaiza
Lagulleme
L'Bocole
Nhorel Tnine
M'Smuir
Zeef Serrer*
Leebro
Leebree
K'haboor
L'giddera
*r
VOCABULARY.
XIU
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
ENGLISH.
ARABIC.
ft's night
Wosh lile
A saint
Afker
To-iiiglit
Lila
The same
Braho
Noon
Hallawahed
1 saw it
Anna shuf leoii
Nutmeg
Gouhstieb
Small
Serrere
Old
Sehert
Speak
Killum
My own
Mtai
The sea
El M'Bahar
Alone
Killurwadha
A sea wind
Rhcatoleberr
Ostricli
Naum
Smell
Shim
A plate
Tyfore
Sweet
L'hellu
Paper
L'Khant
Sleep
Naas
A padlock
ChicUluk
Sheep
Khipps
A partridge
LHeszhle
A seal
Toliaw
\ plain
Min lassaw
Myself
Annabroho
Past
Dush
Send it
Sift
Peas
Zelben
Steel
L'hind
Pepper
Filfil
Sick
Morud
A pen
L'cuUum
A ship
Sphina
A penknife
Lmus
A string
L'khait
Price
Sume
Silver
Nuckraw
A prison
Piglon
L habs
A spit
L's food
L hainmam
The sky
Si maw
Pomegranate
Rumuian
Shirts
Khamise
A port
Mersa
Silk
L'herrer
A pound
Urtle
Scissors
M khass
Pox
Elhab
Shoes ,
Bloghy
Small pox
Ezhdree
Shoemaker
Z'horras
Pain
Khouzhpon
Short
Ufear
Quicksilver
Zawack
Shoot
Drub
A quarter
Orba
So much
Cud
Raisins
Sbibe
Soft
Eztub
Radishes
Ifgill
This sort
Halheut
Rails
Diirbun
Sour
Humd
Ready
Mozhude
Soap
Xabon
Red
Hammer
A spoon
Monhurf
Renegado
Lalge
Stocking
Mediaz
Reckon it
Hassut
Stop
Besore
Right
Say
A son
Wold
A ring .
Jurraw
The sun
Shims
Round
M door
Sugar
Scoor
A room
El beet
Supper
Lashaw
His room
Lbeat dealive
The summer
Seef
Tour room
El beatuk
Suet
Smin
Rub it
Hacku
Snuff
Niff
Run
Zree
A table
L'meeda
Rusty
N'heuden
Take
Hack
Rum
Mahia
I (hank God
Hamdila
I say
Gull
1 thank you
La-ykterkherr»
Salt
Elmilhe
Trade
Sebib
Shave
Hnoof
The
Le
Shave me
Hnoof le
Whom a lim or
Stay
Besoorshy
They or them
haunu
Stain
D nozzle
There
Tima or hannuck
A saw
Muiishore
Theirs
Ume
A saddle
Suize
Tea-cups
Tassal
Sample
Lorbone
A tree
Grezian
Sand
Rua)mell
Tell hiiH
Gulleeorgull-
halboo
^ail«r5
Wblierria
XIV
VOCABULARY.
ENGLISH.
What would you please to have
What are you come for
What are you doing
What do you want to buy
What do you want with it
A ware-bouse
What ails you
Where is it
This week
Last week
Next week
In a week
As I went along the street
How is the wind
Aland-wind
A sea-wind
Which is it
Why don't you do it
lam wrong
¥ou are wrong
What is to be done
What shall we do
What shall they do
What shall I do
What remedy is there
Let us do so and so
Would it not be belter so
You had best do such a one
Let me alone
Were I in your place
'Tis all one
'Tis the same thing
Is it true
It is true
There is no doubt of it
I believe you
We believe you
I say yes
I say no
I say it is
I say 'tis not
Upon my life
That is a lie
I did but jest
I consent
I will not
From whence come you
Whilher go you
From without
From within
Stay a little
Get you gone
Stay for me
Speak
To whom do you speak
What do you say
T sav nothing
ARABIC.
As tzuck sick
Alash jeat
Ash cat amell
Ashbrite sherry
Ashbib blew ,
L'herry
Ash andick
Finuo
Haddaesma
Esma ledel
Esma Iskher
WahadZhma
Keef emsheet
Kif no reah
Rhea nta lubhor
Rheah tolbin
Ammatea
Alash nta mat amlo
Anna ghuhlt
Nta ghuhlt
Ash eat ammell
Ash enammello
Ash eammello
Ash enammell
Ash min duaa
Ara enammello kada wokada
Wosh ma ta kun khereca khaka
Klierelick taamellfulan
Ferkna ferknfee
Loo kunt fy andik
Kool shi wahad
Stea stea
Bclhock
Wosh belhock
Ma fy shick
Stanna enionak
Ana ementick
Ana kult laye
Ana l.ult la
Kkatiertkine
Khatlert ma kine
Ala erkubty
Hacakiddibba
Anna dahaktwocon
Anna rady
Ma habt
Min ine may aik or min inegeett
Eli ine mashy
Min bawa
Mill dachal
Kaad shwy
Cire fy kalik
Sinnany
Kellam
Ly-min kat kelfum
Ashkat kooU
Makan kooll shy
VOCABULARY.
XV
EN«LISH.
Hold yourtong^ue
I never heard it
I heard it
They say so
They told me so
What do you want
What do you ask
Answer me
T have done nothing
Do not say so
Did you say so
f will not tell him
My master said so
Good-morrow master
How do you do
Very well
God bless you, sir
God help you
God preserve you
Pe^e be with you
How does your family
I long to see you
You are dear to me
God reward you
How does the king
God grant him long life
God bless him
God bless his reiga
God vanquish his enemies
God conlbund his enemies
God bless his friends
God confound the infidels
ARABIC.
Skute
Ameri ma smaats
Anna Smaito
Ki'koolo ha
Kallo bailee
Ash ta hab
Ash sucksit
Goubnee
Ma amelt shy
Lat kooll hakada
Wash koolt liaducksky
Ma enkoollo shi
Cidi kail ha
Sehah el khere cidi
Kif enta
Ala khere
Allah berk fik
Allah aunk
Allah esterik
Salamo alikom or labez
Klf rani^o haldarcum
Wahashnak
Ente assizande
Allah echalfalik
Kif kan sidna
Allah efevile aramero
Allah eberk fy aramero
Allah egaal fy doulto berka
Allah esfitil shemil ado who
Allah edummer adou ho
Allah e Berk fy sa ha bo
Allah ennal elkuffur
The king's favour i< better than gold Khaler sidna afdal min dahab
The king loves justice Sultan ehab elhock
Kings love honost men Sultauehabo nesmamona
■ are despised in all countries Leiioud mohakkorin fy kul balad
Christians keep their words better Lensarra tabattin fy koulhom ak thai
El Moslemin
Elsan Alaarb waaraa la El Bewanee
almoho
Kalibe fihum lyqui cudderoaala elga
Ashwaarhahakada
Linhum K! Khuddemo hawoof Lyma
hum aind ensawa
than Moors
The Arabic language is very difficult
for a stranger to learn
There are few of them that can pro-
nounce well
What makes it so difficult
Because they make use of letters
that the Christians have not
Is it practicable to write Arabic with Wosh L'arabia tenkitteb Be Hawoof
Roman letters
Some words may be wrote so as to
give the true sound, though they
are but few
Tlie Moors generally speak the
European languages badly
What is the reason of that
Because the terms they use in Ara-
bic, they apply in other lan-
guages, which sometimes are very
ridiculous
Rome
Bad Kelmat enkittibbo fy sebilbum
waJakin Kalile
E! Moslemin Ki khussero Eellam £1
^gam
Alash
Line-hume ki khuddimo m&kui aara-
bia fy elsu'i okhrine wake kua
duckshi beasell
xvi
VOCABULARY.
ENGLISH. ,
Give us an example
Well, sirs, I will
They say, when a person has had
blows, he has eat the stick
The same, if a jjerson is robbed, they
say, such a one has been eat
By the sanae rule, a Christian apply-
ing European terms in your Ara-
bic language, will appear equally
ridiculous.
The Jews do not pronounce the Ara-
bic well, as they always use the
sin for shine
It is said that the emperor is much
displeased at the receiytt of some
news lately sent him from Sallee,
though nobody knows for certain
•what it is
It is thought he intends goina; thither
in person in a few days; the
event will soon be known
When the army begins to "march,
orders will be sent to the Arabs to
hold themselves in readiness
Somebody <vill pay for this unrea-
sonable campaign
God grant it may end well and send
the king a safe return, as his pre-
sence isntcessary to quiet the dis-
turbances in Suze
They say the Spaniards have pro-
posed sending a person to accom-
pany the presents intended for the
king: it is r reported also that a
truce will soon be concluded be-
tween the two nations for five
years.
ARABIC.
Attena aarbo
Iwa ciadi as maandi
Ki kooUo ida end rub a had akal fulaa
lassa
Wa kadelik ida tahous ahad, ki koollo
fulan tekill
Kaddelika rome ida khuddam maani
agami fy elsan alaarb fy daharidar
besseli
Le hood ma ki aarfo etebto el kellum
linchume ki khuddemo sin fy aud
shin
Kallo bine Sultan emgeare ala shi
khabur lisefto lo min sla^ walakin
ma c&arf had ash-eno
Thonno eln^s bine qui hab enishi b^r
nisso fy shi eame kallile ly»tiraa
edahr fy krib
Minine el-emhella timshee etamraero
ela^rb en ekunno raugoodin
Had min hum ekhalsala-had elharka
fy geare lokat
Allah esilk comoor'berifk: wa eurd
cidna saiamma : line haddaratto el
&?ilia, tahab bisb tahedden, zazaat
Suz
Kallo bine spanniol habbo eba&lo had-
maa el hedd eat metaa Sultan, wa
kallo kadelik bine etammal lud-
denna ala khems sneen bine lum-
tine.
FINIS.
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