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A VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO
1 Fart of
MOROCCO
Shewing Df Leafed b Jaurnn
JrVnJm. .WjpfOTi. Low : &iCt*.
A VISIT
TO THE
COURT OF MOROCCO
^
^
BY
AETHUE LEAEED, M.D. OXON, F.E.C.P.
//
FELLOW OF THE ROTAL GEOGRAPHICAL 80CIETY, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL IR18H ACADEMY
AND OF THE ICELANDIC LITERARY SOCIETY, COPENHAGEN, ETC., AUTHOR OF
"MOROCCO AND THE MOORS," ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
" Let it serve fob table talk." — Merchant of Venice.
lottlJOtt:
SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEAELE, & E1TINGTON
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C.
1879
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150626
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• • . • *•• • • ••••■•••••• I*.
• • • •
PABDOK AND SON, PRIVTKRR, PATEBNOflTKR ROW, LONDOK.
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© en t cat efi
(by permission)
TO
HIS MOST FAITHFUL MAJESTY,
DOM LUIZ I,
KING OF POETUGAL AND THE ALGARVES.
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PBEFACE.
This little book is founded on a Paper read,
in 1878, at the Dublin meeting of the British
Association for the Advancement of Science.
It consists of a narrative of events in a journey
through one of the least-visited parts of the
world, and a record of what was seen of a Court
and its surroundings, in which pomp and bar-
barism are strangely blended.
s
A VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOKOCCO.
CHAPTEK I.
The Embassy leaves Tangier — The Cavalcade — Alcassar el Kebir
— Lab el Baroud — A Sacrificial Offering — Passage of the
Sebou — A Bride at Home — The Absorbent Properties of
Swine — The Mona — A Country Governor's Harem —
Venomous Snakes — A Grateful Dog — Zacouta — The Lesser
Bustard — Another Harem — Doctoring— The Virtues of
Seidlitz Powders — Electrifying the Natives — Centipedes
— Muley Edris el Kebir — Cassar Pharaon.
The old proverb said, " It does not fall to the lot
of every one to visit Corinth." Neither is it the
good fortune of many, as it was mine, to travel
with an embassy in Morocco. The opportunity
of travelling en grand seigneur was the more
agreeable because my former journey* was made
* The author had the misfortune to be in the city of
Morocco when in revolt against the Government. The people,
always hostile to Christians, were in consequence not merely
rude, but dangerous. See " Morocco and the Moors," London,
1876.
B
I VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
under very different circumstances. By the
combination, I have been able to learn more of
Moorish life and manners than would have been
otherwise possible — and so to my story.
The Embassy of Portugal to congratulate the
Sultan on his accession to the throne, of which
Senhor Joseph Cola9o was the head, was about
to proceed to Fez. His wife and daughter, and
a niece, were to accompany him. The other mem-
bers of the Embassy were Senhor Bomtempo, of
the Portuguese Foreign Office, who acted as
secretary, and was bearer of an order to the
Sultan,* Senhor Emanuel de Jesus Colago, the
Ambassador's brother, and Mr. J. Butler, Portu-
guese vice-consul at Saffi; Mr. C. Murdoch was
also of the party. I had the honour to act as
physician to the Embassy, and availed myself of
the privilege of taking my wife.
On the afternoon of May 21st, 1877, we left
the official residence of the Ambassador, and
the long procession defiled through the narrow
streets of Tangier. It was one of those glorious
days of which the delicious climate of that
country is prolific, but it must be owned that
to European sensations it was too warm. The
Embassy had been detained by unavoidable cir-
cumstances until the scorching sun had unmis-
takeably shown that we were about to travel in
* GrS Cruz da Torre Espada de Valor lealdade e merito.
t
THE CAVALCADE. 6
a continent over the length and breadth of which
he reigns supreme.
First went a party of white-robed Moorish
cavalry, headed by a man bearing a large red
flag, the emblem of Moorish sovereignty. From
its tattered condition, one might have conceived it
to have borne the brunt of battle and breeze for
at least a century. Several of the ministers and
consuls of the various countries, and many other
residents of the town, accompaiied us for some
distance. Outside the town the cortSge was
swollen by a larger body of cavalry. At a
little distance it was indeed a gallant and pic-
turesque display. For be it understood once for
all, that things Moorish, are ill-adapted for pra>
Eaphaelite investigation. Thus the huge square
stirrups and inhuman bridle-bits of our troopers
did not shine as they ought to have done in the
brilliant sun, nor was there that uniformity in the
horses or gloss on their coats that one would look
for in one of Her Majesty's cavalry regiments.
Three-and-a-half hours' ride through a fairly
cultivated country brought us to a place under
a range of hills called Kaa el Urmil, close to the
river M'har, where our tents were pitched. One
found time here to take stock of the party. First,
we were lodged in thirty-five tents, including a
large pavilion which formed our dining-room, and
we were attended by twenty servants, besides a
host of muleteers and others, including one
b 2
4 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
Portuguese whose business it was to plant the
royal standard of Portugal at every encampment
in front of the Ambassador's tent. Fifty Moorish
cavalry, with a kaid or commander, constituted
our permanent guard. Our riding animals num-
bered thirty, and there were one hundred horses
and mules for transport, making a grand total of
128 persons and 180 horses and mules. There
were also three camels, which laboured and grunted
under the weight of presents designed for His
Imperial Highness the Sultan.
Next day, very early, the whole corUge was
in motion. We advanced for some time close to
the sea, and then, having crossed a plain, forded
a river about fifty yards wide. Here we were
joined by a kaid with a large party of cavalry, and
at three hours from starting encamped at the
douar of Garbia. There was ai long day to be
got through here, which was done by shooting the
doves which abounded, drinking tea in the kaid's
tent, looking at the powder-play of our cavalry
while we sipped coffee al fresco, or listened to
the droning music of a Moorish band.
In less than two hours' journey from this encamp-
ment we came upon a magnificent grove of wild
olive trees, the massive foliage of which afforded
grateful shade from the sun's too powerful glare
even in the early morning. It is called by the
Moors " the Nightingale wood," from the number
of these birds by which it is frequented. Here we
ALCASSAR EL KEBIR.
were met by the Governor of Larache with a body
of about one hundred cavalry, which replaced
what may be called the floating portion of our
escort. From this place there was a succession
of hill and plain with little cultivation ; a % con-
siderable river was forded, and we stopped at a
place called Klatta de Eaissana. A disagreeable
east wind prevailed during this day.
Out again before sunrise; the long procession
once more in motion, now extending more than
a mile, now contracting to a third of that dimen-
sion, wended its way across a great alluvial plain,
through which runs the small river M'Hassen.
This is spanned by an ancient stone bridge, and
here we stopped to drink to the memory of the
gallant, but imprudent, Portuguese monarch, who
led his army across this bridge from their strong
position into the open plain to be overwhelmed
by numbers, and slain almost to a man.*
From the river M'Hassen to Alcassar, a dis-
tance of some ten miles, the country was level,
yet but little cultivated. A hill was crossed at
about two miles from the town, which then came
into view. The intervening space was an arid
plain, which presented hardly the semblance of
any living plant, where nevertheless cattle roamed
in search of food.
From the point of view where we encamped,
* See "Appendix A."
6 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
Alcassar el Kebir was imposing enough. About
a dozen mosque towers, with here and there a
few tall palms, and a crowd of flat-roofed houses
enclosed within high walls, gave it an air of im-
portance. Outside the walls there were also some
fine gardens.
We entered, and all illusion was dispelled. It
was market day, and the crowds gathered round
our party in the hot, filthy, and dusty streets in
a way that was almost unbearable. The shops
had no auctions; nothing was to be seen L
them except articles of food and clothing. And
yet the size and appearance of some of the houses
showed that there were citizens of substance in
the midst of this squalor. But a general decay
was only too plain. Here was to be seen an
open space covered with mouldering ruins. There,
a minaret, the mosque of which no longer existed.
An extraordinary number of storks' nests, perched
on towers, on housetops, on old walls and trees,
was a feature of the place. Look almost where
one would, and one of these big untidy structures
met the eye. And sitting in each were two or
three ungainly-looking juveniles, over which papa
and mamma storks stood gazing at the hopeful but
hungry family below.
I judged the town to contain between five and
six thousand souls,* and this estimate was con-
* Kohlfs makes the number of inhabitants 30,000. " Ad-
yentures in Morocco," London, 1874, page 25.
ALCASSAR EL KEBIK. 7
firmed by the independent statement of a Jew
inhabitant. The number of Jews is about 600.
The town is more healthy than the neighbouring
town of Larache, situated on the sea. Alcassar
boasts of no doctor, and yet the people have
learned the value of vaccination, which has been
introduced from Tangier. By this means the
ravages of smallpox, their worst enemy, have
been checked.
Every town in Morocco seems to have a legend
of its own concerning its origin. The story
about the foundation of this town is that the
Sultan Mansor, having lost his way on a hunting
expedition, was entertained incognito by a poor
fisherman, in whose hut he passed the night.
The Sultan was so well pleased, that he bestowed
upon the fisherman some royal buildings, situated
not far off. These buildings having been enclosed
within a wall, soon took the form of a town, to
which the name of Alcassar el Kebir, or, the Great
Palace,* was given.
The Ambassador had remained behind to sketch
the bridge before-mentioned, and his approach to
the camp in the evening was a sight not to be
forgotten. He was preceded by a band of native
music, and a sharp fusillade was kept up, just
as if he were fighting his way to the encampment.
Next morning we passed over about two miles
* "A Geographical History of Africa," by Leo Africanus,
translated by John Pory, London, 1600, page 172.
8 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
of the best road I had seen in Morocco. It was
wide, with a paved footpath, rendered necessary
by the soft nature of the ground in the rainy
season. This road ended at the ford across the
Lucos, here about eighty yards in breadth.
Beyond this, the country was better cultivated
than usual, and here, May 25th, we saw wheat
cut for the first time. Our encampment was in
the midst of an immense tract, covered with a
fair crop of hay going utterly to waste. It is
curious to observe how differently the same
article is valued under different circumstances.
I had often seen the Icelanders collecting their
scanty hay crop— even the sod-covered roofs of
their houses being carefully mowed — the only
product of their sterile soil and frigid climate. The
Moors, on the other hand, never make hay. Climate
and soil together confer on them so many other
gifts as to render it, at least in their estimation,
unnecessary.
During our progress we were honoured every
day with the Lab el Baroud, or powder-play, by
our Moorish guards; when the ground permitted,
the performance was almost incessant. It often
began before daylight, and as often ended after
sunset, when sitting at dinner in our tent. It
was a gallant sight to see ten or a dozen Moors
charging abreast, their spirited little horses strain-
ing nerve and muscle, and apparently enjoying
the fun as much as the riders ; the robes of the
LAB EL BAROUD. 9
men filled by the breeze, their eyes flashing fire as
they whirled and tossed their long guns in the
air, and then with one wild, thrilling shout (a
prayer to Allah to direct their bullets to the
hearts of their enemies), discharging their pieces
simultaneously, then checking their horses, and
suddenly wheeling round.
This mimic warfare — for in this we have the
whole tactics of the Moorish cavalry — is highly
inspiriting, and supplies the Moors, both young and
old, with an excitement of which they are pas-
sionately fond. But to us spectators, the thing, like
everything else, became monotonous by repetition.
It was only when an accident, such as the follow-
ing, occurred, that interest in the performance was
thoroughly revived, and then the native part of
the cortSge laughed and gibed as only Moors
know how. Something tripped up the horse of
one of the performers while going full tilt, so
that man and beast rolled over like a ball. Mar-
vellous to say, the rider escaped without serious
injury, while the horse, having broken loose in
the act of being laid hold of, reared and fell over
on his back : here was an opportunity for a
second explosion of fun not lost by the by-
standers. Incidents of this kind were frequent,
and kept the Moors in great good humour.
On reaching the bounds of his province, the
Governor of Larache, who had accompanied us
from Alcassar, left with his escort, which was
10 VISIT TO THE COURF OF MOROCCO.
replaced by a much smaller one, under the com-
mand of the son of the Governor of Ben Ouda.
His father had taken away the main body of
the cavalry to chastise a rebel tribe in the
neighbourhood.
We found the Governor's house, to which we
were invited, to be a small dilapidated structure,
notwithstanding that its owner was reputed
wealthy. We were as usual taken into the gar-
den, and regaled with strong green tea. But
even this hardly counterbalanced the drowsy
tendency induced by the lazy movements, in a
circle, of a half-starved mule, and the monotonous
creaking of an irrigation wheel hard by, which
he turned.
An incident occurred this evening which illus-
trated very remarkably the habits and tone of
mind of this Shemitic race. A theologian would
probably have regarded it as proving the ingrained
conception in the natural man of the necessity
for, and the efficacy of, sacrifice. A Moor, who
had, or fancied that he had, experienced some
injustice, killed a sheep in front of the Ambassa-
dor's tent, and then presented a petition to Senhora
Colaijo, to the effect that she would intercede with
her husband to obtain justice for the suppliant.
Moreover, our theologian would not fail to observe
that the idea of an intercessor was included in
the episode. Amongst the Moors themselves, this
slaying of an animal to propitiate the. favour of
A SACEIFICIAL. OFFERING. 11
a person in power is a proceeding which never
fails to arrest attention. In the present instance
the persons appealed to did not care to mix
themselves up in a matter about the merits of
which they knew nothing.
Next day, however, notwithstanding his pre-
vious ill-success, the irrepressible Moor was again
to the fore. As the Senhora stepped from her
tent in the gray dawn of the morning, there he
was kissing the ground at her feet. It was a
comical, but at the same time a touching sight,
to witness the poor fellow's manoeuvres to obtain
a hearing.
We crossed the river Guarot by a ford, about
fifty yards wide, and then traversed a rolling
prairie, covered with short tufty grass, studded
with the flowers of a species of chamomile, but
without tree or shrub. After a journey of only
about ten miles, we stopped at the douar or village
of the Governor of the Habassie tribe. The
governor excused himself humbly for not doing
proper honour by a larger escort to the repre-
sentative of Portuguese Majesty. It was the old
story : the troopers were absent on fighting duty,
in which two of their number had just been killed.
Once more tea in the Governor's garden, in which
were many old acquaintances, such as roses, holly-
hocks, larkspurs, and poppies. Next, we were fairly
drenched with rose and orange water; this ope-
ration was performed with a metal vessel, having
12 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
a long, narrow spout, by means of which the fluid
was poured over one's head and face. After this,
a metal censer, with burning charcoal, in which
aloe wood was burned, was handed round. The
smell was agreeable, but the heat would have
been useful if one could have secured it long
enough to dry one's wetted clothes.
Our next journey was through so level a
tract, that looking westward it had a sea-like
horizon. A good deal of this immense expanse
was cultivated with wheat and barley, with here
and there douars or villages of clustered tents,
with a fair number of cattle. But by far the
greater part was a fertile waste, waiting in vain
for the hand of man to make it productive.
We soon reached the Sebou, one of the prin-
cipal rivers of Morocco, at this point about 120
yards wide and of considerable depth. Here
began a scene of noise and confusion impossible
to describe. The passage was effected in rickety,
leaky, flat-bottomed boats, into which the camels
and many of the horses and mules were partly
driven, partly pushed. But the greater number
of the animals were made to swim the river by
the united yells, reproaches, and blows of a crowd
of nearly naked men — now delivered from the bank,
now while swimming, or else supported by the
tails of the swimming horses and mules. Next
the immense heap of baggage piled on the
river-bank claimed attention; and altogether the
A BRIDE AT HOME. 13
crossing and recrossing, unpacking and packing,
occupied four hours' hard work.
In a douar, close to the river's bank on the
farther side, was a bride, whom we were allowed
to see in her tent. She was undergoing the
customary seclusion for a certain number of days.
She was young and pretty, and sat almost as
motionless as a waxwork — dirty, but bedecked
with earrings, with armlets and leglets, and evi-
dently well pleased with herself. Bits of various-
coloured silks sewn on to her dress gave her the
appearance of a May girl in one of our country
villages. There were also running about in this
douar a pair of young wild boars. They are kept
by the Moors chiefly on account of the absorbent
properties attributed to the swine tribe. The
notion that they are often beset by evil spirits, is
deeply rooted in the Moorish mind. But if there
is the bane, there is also the antidote; for it
is firmly believed that no devil can resist the
attraction of a pig's body as a desirable place of
residence; and when so localized, they are pre-
sumed to be comparatively harmless. Be that as it
may, nothing could well be more impudent, gro-
tesque, and amusing than these prettily-striped
little pigs. Gratitude, however, has no place in
their character. When nearly grown up, any good
conduct they possessed leaves them, and, as in
other cases, with it they lose their stripes.
After this they become most destructive, if Hot
14 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
positively dangerous. Sooner or later, however,
it is their invariable practice, no matter what
amount of care and attention they have received,
to betake themselves and their cargo of devils to
their native wilds to be no more seen.
A casual observer might suppose that, in our
camp, we had at last lighted upon that prodigal
hospitality sometimes attributed to Eastern peoples.
Every evening he would see a long train of
Moors, some driving sheep, others carrying fowls
tied by the legs, others bearing on their heads,
trays filled with provisions. One may see the
thing exactly represented on certain Egyptian
monuments. This daily contribution is called
the "mona" ; but hospitality, to be genuine, must
be voluntary. The offerings were made by order
of the Sultan, by whose officers the various vil-
lages near which we encamped were compelled
to supply all our wants. I could not learn that
the people are in any way compensated. "Le
roi le veut," and that is enough. The passage of
an embassy through the country is, fortunately
for the people, not a thing of every-year occur-
rence. This day's allowance consisted of six sheep
(on some occasions it had been ten), a calf, thirty
fowls, eight loaves of sugar, eight packets of
candles, a large quantity of bread, butter, and
oranges, besides barley for the animals.
Our next journey was over a flat fertile coun-
try, having some splendid wheat crops, and
A COUNTRY GOVERNOR'S HAREM. 15
through great tracts, as thickly covered with a
tall white-flowering umbelliferous weed as if
cultivated. This weed must impoverish the ground
sadly, and its only earthly use is that the Moors
make toothpicks out of the little stalks which
go to form the umbel. The escort, which met
us soon after our departure, amounted to 168
horsemen, and we had powder play all the way
in great perfection. We encamped on the bank
of the river Irrdrum, a tributary of the Sebou,
on a dead level plain, having to the south a fine
amphitheatre-like range of distant hills. Close
at hand was the village of Bokhara, where the
Governor of the Shaarda tribe's house was situated.
Our progress had hitherto been, in all con-
science, slow enough, and yet here the Ambas-
sador received the salutations of the Sultan with
a request that we should not hurry. His Majesty
also sent word that he would receive us at Mequinez
instead of at Fez, where we intended going. We
remained at this place in consequence two days.
The Governor's house here was of the same
class as others already described : no glass in the
windows, no paint on the tin-bound doors and
shutters. Our ladies were invited into the harem,
which presented a sight the reverse of imposing.
In a court surrounded by apartments, about
thirty women, white and black, were huddled
together. Some of the commoner sort were shel-
tered in a camel's-hair tent in the middle of the
10 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
enclosure. The women were described as fat and
dirty, and, with few exceptions, not pretty. No
end of stark-naked children were running about
or else in their mothers' arms.
The old Governor consulted me about his health;
ho was weak, he said, and required a strong tonic.
Outside the house was a large matamore, or ex-
cavation in the earth for storing corn. It had
not boon used for years, and a few days before
our arrival, three men went down for the purpose
of putting it in repair. They were bitten by a
deadly species of viper, called by the Moors el
effa (translated, the violent-tempered), and all three
died almost immediately. These vipers frequent
places of this kind.
I cannot resist telling a story here of which a
dog is the hero. Nilo, a Spanish pointer, be-
longing to the Ambassador, had his leg broken
by the fall upon it of a tent pole. The poor
animal suffered terribly, and the question was
what was to be done with him. The prevailing
opinion was that he ought to be put out of pain
by a speedy death. However, by the aid of Mr.
Murdoch, I managed to set his limb, and a black
man was told off to look after the patient. That
evening the cries of the dog again became dis-
tressing. I found poor Nilo in a deplorable state,
his broken leg having got twisted while his negro
nurse lay beside him in a profound stupor from
the effects of smoking kief, or Indian hemp.
A GRATEFUL DOG. 17
Some Moors who were with me shouted to the
sleeper in a way that might wake the dead. But
Hadge em Bark was insensible to everything until
his head was lifted up by one of his ears. Then
for an instant there was a diabolical grin, and
again his features were as still as death. When
philanthropists have succeeded in suppressing
alcohol and its effects, they should turn attention
to hemp, which ignominiously destroys life in
more ways than one. Once more I succeeded in
preventing Nilo from being killed on the score
of putting him out of pain. The dog waa ulti-
mately left behind in care of a Moor, who was to
be paid on our receiving the animal on the return
journey.
Some weeks afterwards the same dissipated negro
was dispatched to bring the animal to our camp,
as we did not return by the same route. My
persistent efforts to make friends with the dog
previous to his accident had utterly failed. He was
sullen and indifferent. But the moment Nilo, now
nearly well, was released from the mule's back on
which he had been brought into camp, he came
and seated himself in my tent, wagging his tail,
looking at me as if he wanted to say, as I have
no doubt he felt, "I am very grateful to you,
and I have come to see you first." From that
time, Nilo and I were great friends. One is
tempted to say with the French cynic, "Plus je
connais les hommes, plus j'admire leg chiens."
c
18 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
About four miles from this encampment, hilly
country commenced. But from the bridge over
the M'Hassen to this point, a distance of about
seventy miles, the country was so level that a
splendid road might be made at a comparatively
small cost. After having crested the hills and
made a short descent, we arrived at our stopping
place, by name Zacouta. Here, by direction of the
Sultan, we were obliged to delay five days. His
Majesty's progress is always slow, and the short
joulney on wnich he was then engaged, namely,
going from Fez to Mequinez, occupied many days.
He was anxious that our corUge should not come
in contact with the Imperial host, to feed which
must have sorely taxed the resources of the countrv
through which it passed.
We had plenty of time for investigation in this
disagreeable place. Our camp was on flat, parched
soil, deeply fissured by the summer heat which
was now felt in all its fierceness. The thermometer
in our tent, a roomy Moorish one, oval in shape,
and lined with stout woollen cloth, reached 99 °P.
On one night we had a thunderstorm with rain,
but it afforded us little or no relief.
We found that the lesser bustard, called by the
Moors rod, a fine game bird not known near the
coast, was plentiful here. It is about the size of a
pheasant, but plumper, and flies in coveys. We
tried, to shoot them, but the heat even in the
early mornings, the wildness of the birds, and the
THE LESSER BUSTARD. 19
want of dogs, made us unsuccessful. On one of oui*
excursions, I found with some reapers a young
rad tethered by the leg, and this bird, which was
easily tamed, proved for some time afterwards an
amusing pet, until it was allowed to starve by the
Moor who had it in charge.
Our encampments were generally so arranged
as to be near the residence of the governor of
the tribe in whose district we travelled. In this
part of the country these residences were small
and poor-looking, contrasting remarkably with
the huge piles of unbaked earthen walls with
extensive courtyards belonging to the governors
in Southern Morocco. The house of the great man
of Zacouta was no exception. Here it was my
fortune, or misfortune, to be admitted into the
recesses of the harem to prescribe for a patient.
A dirtier, plainer set of women it would be difficult
to find. The only thing that could be said for
them was that they were fat ; but in the eyes of
a Moor, fatness is a cloak which covers a mul-
titude of faults.
This leads me to speak of my peculiar troubles
in the professional line. It is well known that
in the East every Frank is supposed to possess
an intuitive knowledge of the healing art. In
Morocco the same delusion prevails. And when
a man has the misfortune to be known as a
real tabib, as the Moors call a doctor, let him
expect no respite. At every stopping-place there
c 2
20 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
were no end of patients, and when stationary
for some days, one's practice increased immensely.
Some were fever-stricken, others loathsome from
skin diseases : the lame, the blind, the deaf, the
childless, and the lean — for the last two were
conditions for which remedies were eagerly sought
— all thronged round our tent. Mention has
already been made of the method of intercession
in obtaining favours, and in the present instance
it came largely into play. The tabib himself was
seldom asked or even thanked for his services;
but the tabids wife was constantly knelt to, and
had her clothes kissed, to induce her to obtain the
good offices of her husband.
It is needless to say that I tried to help
the poor creatures as far as the limited resources
of my medicine chest allowed. I was particu-
larly indebted to Senhor Emmanuel Colajo and to
Messrs. Murdoch and Butler, without whose aid
as interpreters and in many other ways it would
have been impossible for me to have done any-
thing. But the demands of the patients were
both incessant and exorbitant. The Moor im-
plicitly believes that the European doctor canr
cure him, and that if he does not, it is only
because he will not. Moreover, the patient brooks
no delay. He expects an immediate cure. This,
to say the least, was not a little awkward, and
led to much disappointment.
It can hardly then be wondered at that one
THE VIRTUES OF 8EIDLITZ POWDERS. 21
was induced to try various devices with no higher
object in view than that of making an impression.
These devices took different forms, and a few of
them are here given for the benefit of future
travellers.
One of my great resources was a box of Seid-
litz powders, and it also afforded much amuse*
ment. Who could help laughing at the sight
of a great dark Othello, invariably drawing back
through fear of being scalded, when the effer-
vescing draught was presented to him? It was
never swallowed, indeed, until the recipient had
first ascertained by a hasty dip of his finger that
the liquid was not boiling over by some cold
process known to the Satan-leagued Christians.
In many instances, however, the Seidlitz
powders were administered by an altogether new
method. The Moors believe in what is profes-
sionally termed heroic treatment ; that is to say, in
that which acts strongly and with no possibility of
mistake about effect. Now every one knows that
Seidlitz powders are composed of acid and alkali,
and that to make them effervesce properly, it is
necessary to dissolve one of each in separate
portions of water, and then to mix them. It
occurred to me, that if the patient were to
swallow these solutions separately and in quick
succession, an imposing effect might be produced.
Indeed, the result exceeded all expectation. The
sudden but harmless distension caused by the
22 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
internal gaseous evolution was usually succeeded
by an indescribable look of alarm, followed by pres-
sure of the hands upon the stomach, while a pious
Ma-shal-lah (" God is great ") ejaculated slowly
but with much fervour, was almost overwhelmed
by the furious rush of imprisoned gas. It was
currently believed that the devil had to do
with this matter also, and it was more than pro-
bable that the internal commotion and manifest
escape of something invisible were set down to
the palpable expulsion of an evil spirit.
This remedy was held to be potential no]t only
against immaterial beings, but against substances
as heavy as lead. Men with gunshot wounds
received in their tribal fights, not infrequently
required assistance. A warrior, who had a
bullet lodged in his back, appeared one morning,
bringing a basket of figs in gratitude for his
successful treatment. This consisted pf a Seidlitz
powder, which he felt satisfied had moved the
bullet considerably. Another resource of the
healing art was made to serve an ignoble but
very laughable purpose. Mr. Butler brought
with him a small electro-magnetic apparatus. It
was great fun to observe the look of blank
astonishment on their faces, when the electric
current was passed through the bodies and
arms of a lot of Moors seated in a circle.
But a plan we adopted of testing the endurance
of Moors and Jews versus their cupidity afforded
ELECTRIFYING THE NATIVES. 23
the most ludicrous sight imaginable. First, be
it remembered, that a dollar was a sum to secure
which most of them would endure almost any
amount of pain. The conditions, then, were to
hold in the hand one handle of the battery while
the other handle was placed in a basin of water,
at the bottom of which, within temptingly easy
reach, lay the silver prize. The poor fellow's
immersed hand was of course provokingly closed
by an uncontrollable spasm, while his face was
as invariably contorted in a manner that sent the
bystanders into roars of laughter. The mirth of
their own countrymen was indeed perfectly up-
roarious. This game was often repeated, and in
no single instance was the prize legitimately
gained. Any attempt to explain the process by
which the results in this case were obtained was
simply hopeless. We therefore allowed judgment
to go by default, and that judgment was that
the strange effects in this case also were due to
the direct agency of Shaitan, or the evil one,
the Mohammedan representative of the Christian's
devil.
The only thing good at this encampment was
the water, but the excessive heat, and probably
the nature of the ground, were fast bringing ill-
ness into our camp. Another inconvenience con-
nected with the heat was the increased activity and
fierceness of the insect world. The mosquitoes were
bloodthirsty to the last degree; every creeping
24 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
thing seemed now to move with tenfold vigour,
and amongst them were creatures the like of
which even those accustomed to the country had
never seen before.
Senhor Colaco, while sitting in his tent, felt some-
thing cold touching his neck, which he at first
supposed to be the leather strap of his cap. He
was horrified on putting up his hand to find a huge
oentipede twined under his chin, but he most fortu-
nately escaped being bitten. After that we saw
several of these black monsters, which measured
about eight or nine inches in length, both in and
out of the tents. When disturbed they invariably
dived into the heat cracks in the earth.
At last, on the 5th of June, we left Zacouta, by
no means deeply regretted by the inhabitants, who
were obliged to provide gratuitously for so many
mouths. The road lay through a succession of
hills, on the slopes of which was much standing
corn. After a short journey, we camped under the
mountain of Zarhoun, on the southern side of which,
less than a mile distant, was the town and sanctuary
of Muley Edris el Kebir. The shrine of this holy
man, who was the fether of the founder of Fez, is
regarded throughout Morocco with peculiar venera-
tion. No Christian is ever allowed to enter the
town in which it is placed. On the day before our
arrival, the Sultan, on his way to Mequinez, visited
the sanctuary, according to custom. On our right,
across a stream with deep banks, and on higher
CASSAB PHARAON. 25
ground, stood the ruins called Cassar Pharaon. As
so little was known about these interesting ruins,
the opportunity was taken of examining them care-
fully, the result of which will be found elsewhere.*
Antiquarian pursuits were conducted here under
difficulties. The thermometer stood in the tents at
102° P., and at this temperature one's energies
begin to flag.
Cassar Pharaon is about 1 2 miles from Mequinez,
and we made a short journey in the afternoon of the
following day ; first over hills, from which at last
the city came into view, and then across a large
plain. Here we were met by a great body - of
cavalry, and powder play was conducted on the
most extensive scale. We had been expected in
the early morning, and the men had had no food all
day ; but that seemed to make no difference with
these hardy horsemen. We camped for the night
close to the Wad Cazar (river of trees).
* See " Appendix B."
CHAPTER II.
Wild Horsemen — Reception of the Embassy by the Authorities
at Mequinez — Description of the House Assigned to the
Embassy — The City of Mequinez — Estimation in which it
is held by the Moors — Entertainment by the Vizier — His
Harem — Reception of the Embassy by the Sultan — His
Carriage — Imposing Effect of Salutation by the Troops —
The Sultan's Appearance — His Horses — His Gardens — An
Ostrich Farm — Entertainment by the Governor of Fez —
Another by the Grand Chamberlain — Another by the Chief
of our Escort — Another by the Sultan— Jews of Mequinez
— A Visit to the Interior of the Palace — Magnates in a
Cellar — Account of the Sultan's Palace — A Delicate In-
vestigation — What the Moors thought about the Turkish
Question — An Objectionable Follower — The Sultan's
Presents — The Moorish Army — Recent Efforts to Improve
its Discipline.
Next morning all were astir betimes for our final
advance towards the city, now distant about six
miles. A detour was, however, made, in order to
enter by a particular gate. We .were enveloped in
a perfect cloud of horsemen firing their guns, and
dashing about in such a strange manner as to sug-
gest an equestrian form of insanity, and that " Colney
Hatch Prancers " would be a good name for these
erratic troops. That there was some method in the
RECEPTION OF THE EMBASSY AT MEQUINEZ. 27
madness was shown, however, by the flags, thirty-
one of which were counted, each indicating the head
of a tribe, and being the rallying point of a separate
body of cavalry.
Three of the Sultan's brothers, young men, dis-
tinguished by the fineness and snowy whiteness of
their flowing robes and their splendid horses, soon
joined the procession. The Prime Minister, the
Commander-in-Chief, and other high officials, accom-
panied the princes. Next we entered between two
lines of infantry, which extended from the gate into
the plain for a distance judged to be about three-
quarters of a mile. As these troops stood close
together, their numbers must have been very con-
siderable. They consisted chiefly of askars, or
soldiers of the Sultan's guard, dressed with some
regard to uniformity in Fez caps, red flannel jackets,
and vests ; and of other troops, that seemed to have
appropriated the cast-off uniforms of every army
under the sun. The arms of all were either old
flint or percussion muskets.
As we passed through the long lines there was a
great din of drums, and a brass band discoursed
unknown music. Everywhere there was a clash
and clang, and barbaric pomp, to signalize our
approach to the clay-built walls, huge as sombre, of
the imperial city.
It was remarked that our reception by the Moor-
ish authorities was unusually demonstrative. The
Ambassador, long resident amongst them, was very
28 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
popular with the Moors; and between the realm
of Portugal and the Sultanate of Morocco there has
long existed a cordiality which contrasts strongly
with the relations between Spain and Morocco.
No longer aggressive, Portugal is content with
the memories of her valiant exploits on Moorish
soil, as well as in more distant regions. The old
feuds are forgotten, and the flag of Portugal is
always received with honour and respect.
The guest house of the Sultan, to which we
were conducted, situated in a blind street near
the great Mosque, El Kebir Cubith Sook, was in
fair repair for a Moorish building. The open-air
central tiled space or patio, in which was a foun-
tain that constantly played, was 35 feet square.
A lofty room ten feet wide opened on each side
into the patio. These rooms had no windows, and
the weather being hot, the large arched doorways
were only closed by curtains. On the floor above,
rooms, the counterparts of those below, opened on
to a wide wooden balcony. It was, in fact, an
eight-roomed house, having attached to it some
small dark rooms for kitchen, bath rooms, &c.
The stone stairs resembled those found in medi-
aeval castles, in their narrowness and steepness.
The rooms were simply whitewashed, and without
decoration, except that the lower part of the sides
of the doorways was covered with tiles arranged
in patterns. We had iron bedsteads, and some
rooms, in addition to the divan or sofa, boasted of
MEQUINEZ. 29
a chair. It was curious to observe pieces of Eng-
lish carpets usurping the places of the more appro-
priate and more handsome Moorish rugs.
As there are no milestones in Morocco, and
no surveys have been made, I took pains to ascer-
tain the distance travelled. Taking the walking
pace of a mule at four miles an hour, and carefully
allowing for stoppages, I arrived at the conclusion
that Mequinez is 157 miles from Tangier by the
road we travelled.* Such was our slow progress,
that eighteen days were consumed in accomplishing
the journey.
Mequinez is a more modern-looking city than
Fez, with wider streets. It is the sacerdotal city
of the empire, and contains many large mosques and
seminaries. Its high waUs, with towers at about
two hundred paces distance from each other, and
huge gates, some of them very handsome, gave
it somewhat of a defiant aspect. The walls were
made of a compound of lime and sun-dried clay,
disfigured, as all such walls are in Morocco, by a
number of square holes, which might be taken for
loopholes for musketry. These holes are caused by
the insertion of pieces of timber in building the
wall, by a process to be afterwards described. The
filling of these holes falls out after a time, and nest-
ing places for birds are thus formed. Owing to this,
an amazing number of hawks, jays, and pigeons, all
* See " Appendix D.
»»
30 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
appearing to live on perfectly friendly terms, were
flushed when one went round the walls. The out-
side circuit of the walls seemed about five miles,
and the number of inhabitants was set down by
an intelligent Moor at 25,000. It was evidently
formerly much larger, aa so fax from there being
any appearance of tension from want of building
room, there were many gardens and ruins within the
walls. And, although we traversed the city in all
directions, I saw only one house in course of erec-
tion, and that was in the Mellagh, or Jews' quarter.
In the eyes of the Moors, Mequinez, and all that
belongs to it, are regarded as perfection. The
mere mention of the place causes them at times to
lift one shoulder in an expressive way, accompany-
ing the act with what may be called a whistle in a
whisper, as who would say, "Ah, I believe you;
that is the place." The women of the city are
regarded as the handsomest in Morocco, and the
term " Mequinesia " applied to any woman is looked
on as a great compliment. The political power,
trade, and vastness of Fez, are duly lauded, but
Mequinez is the seat of learning, which means of
theology. A great number of the inhabitants are
connected with the court, or else with the army.
The second day after our arrival, we went by in-
vitation to dine at the house of the Vizier, or Prime
Minister, Sid Moosa Ben Hamed, an elderly, acute,
pleasant-faced man, of very courteous maimers.
We were entertained in a room opening on to a
ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIER. 31
fine garden, with fountains and terraces kept in
good order. Our host, with some of his friends,
did the honours well, without partaking of the
feast. A Lord Mayor's dinner could hardly com-
pete with this in number and variety of dishes.
The meat and poultry dishes for our small party
numbered thirty, the salads twelve, and the sweet-
meats thirty-two ; but there was no dessert, and of
course no wine. The ladies were admitted after-
wards into the harem, where they saw a crowd of
fifty or sixty women, varying from twelve or
thirteen to fifty years of age; two of the great
man's wives were as fat as the fattest creatures ever
seen at a cattle show. The children were reported
aa beyond counting.
Our ladies had several other opportunities of
knowing all about this harem. The entrance was
always guarded by black slaves, creatures hardly to
be called men. The Sid's legal wives were always
courteous and pleasant. Each had her own depart-
ment in housekeeping, such as cooking, washing,
cleaning, &c, and they evidently possessed ex-
tensive powers over the other women. All the
women were polite, although inquisitive; their
questions were confined to the very few subjects
suggested by their limited experience of life.
Ornaments, dress (this was also very practically exa-
mined into), health, babies, and husbands, formed
the chief points of discussion. The smallness of our
ladies' waists, compared with their own, made them
32 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
laugh immoderately. The sight of Europeans was
an event in their monotonous lives. It is believed
that, with the exception of two daughters of
Sir J. D. Hay, no English, probably no European
women, had been seen at Mequinez in recent
times.
Four days after our arrival, the grand event of
the journey, our public reception by the Sultan,
took place. At eight o'clock in the morning we
rode, through a gateway of noble proportions, into
a large quadrangular enclosure of the palace,
surrounded by high walls. From that we passed
into a similar enclosure, and finally into a third,
about three acres in extent. Soldiers standing
closely together lined the walls of these great
spaces. Having dismounted from our horses, we
were arranged by the M'Chouar, or master of
the ceremonies, opposite to a large gateway. The
Ambassador, Senhor Bomtempo, and Mr. Butler,
were in official uniforms. Just behind us five
mules stood in a row, laden with the presents from
the monarch of Portugal to his Moorish brother.
Presently there was a blast of trumpets, and the
great wooden gate was suddenly thrown open, and
from it issued five magnificent led horses, gaily
caparisoned, and bearing themselves as if conscious
of the dignity of the occasion.
But the step from the sublime downwards is often
abrupt. Next came forth a one-horse chaise driven
by a man on foot, there being no driving seat.
RECEPTION BY THE SULTAN. 33
The horse was harnessed a long way from the little
yellow vehicle. Where this could have originally
come from, it would be difficult to say. One must
suppose that as no one drives a carriage in Morocco,
it was intended to typify the might and grandeur
of its august owner, whom it immediately preceded.
The Sultan now made his appearance, mounted on
a splendid grey horse. A man with a bright spear
gleaming in the sunlight walked at each side of his
charger. Behind the spearman on the right walked
an attendant bearing a large red umbrella with a
golden knob on the top of its long handle, with
which his Sharifian Majesty's face was carefully
shaded. Two other attendants, with white silk
handkerchiefs in their hands, seemed to be assi-
duously dusting both horse and rider, but the mean-
ing of this was that the troublesome flies were no
respecters of persons.
At the instant the Sultan came in view, every
soldier present bowed almost to the ground, and
shouted at the top of his voice, " Allah bark amar
Sidna" ("The blessing of God fill our Lord.")
Twice was this shouting and bowing repeated. The
effect was really grand; turn where one would,
hundreds of dusky faces were seen bending down-
wards in trained obedience, while the blended
clamour of many thousand throats almost persuaded
one that the object of so much devotion must be
more than mortal. Anything more impressive it
would not be easy to find.
D
34 VISIT TO THE COUBT OF MOROCCO.
We now approached close, and stood face to face
with His Majesty, or more correctly speaking, with
his horse. The Ambassador then read an address
and handed it to the Sultan, who handed it to his
Prime Minister, standing with other high officials
in close attendance. Some complimentary words
were now exchanged through the medium of
Mr. Butler, and then the Ambassador presented us
each in turn to the Sultan. Mr. Murdoch, although
present unofficially, received a special recognition.
His name was well known to His Majesty as one of
the principal merchants trading in his dominions.
The reception did not occupy more than a quarter of
an hour. When it was over, His Majesty, attended
by his spearmen, his umbrella-bearer, and his fly-
flappers, rode leisurely away through a different
gate from that by which he entered. And now
came the clang of Moorish music, and the uproar of
five fieldpieces rapidly discharged, while the report
of each was tripled by echoes from the surrounding
walls. Moreover, the soldiers, no longer under
restraint, added to the noise and confusion. It was
a very chaos of disorder.
The ladies, mounted on their mules, witnessed the
reception at a distance of about twenty yards, and
it was observed that the royal eyes frequently
wandered in their direction.
The Sultan, Hassan Ben Mohammed, seemed to
be about forty years of age. He was tall, and of
good presence. His complexion was pale and
*
the sultan's appearance. 35
his features expressive. He gave the impression
of energy and mental power. He was dressed
in the usual white haic, with light blue under-
clothing. The horse-trappings were green-coloured,
and embroidered with gold.
After the reception, we were taken to see various
things connected with the royal establishment. We
saw the Sultan's horses, to the number of between
thirty and forty, tethered in a large yard exposed
to the rays of the burning sun. Many of them
were splendid animals, showing much breeding, and
some were decidedly vicious. All the horses in
Morocco are stallions, but the stranger must not
expect to find amongst them a preponderance of fine
animals. The Barb horse has a good reputation;
but the truth is, most of the Moorish horses are
poor mongrels, small and ill-shaped, but hardy and
serviceable. Those of the right sort are highly
valued, and consequently by no means easy to
obtain.
We passed through two of the royal gardens,
which, except in extent, differed little from
others we had seen. They were orchards rather
than gardens, in which were apple and pear,
plum, peach, and cherry, orange, lemon, citron,
pomegranate, almond, and other trees, besides
vines, and a few common flowers. As the ground
was well irrigated, all these grew in great
luxuriance. Fairly-well-kept walks divided the
grounds, and some of them led up to summer
d 2
36 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
houses, decorated with tiles and arabesque ceiling
decorations. In one of the summer houses was
a velvet-covered French sofa.
We were also shown a large park-like enclosure,
in which a number of ostriches were confined,
and where they bred— an ostrich farm, in fact.
The birds were very shy, and they had for
companions, gazelles as wild as themselves, and
also camels and horses.
Our reception by the Sultan, as might be
supposed, caused us to be honoured by invite-
tions from high officials. Sid Abdallah Ben
Hamed, Governor of Fez, Sid Moosa's brother,
entertained us handsomely. Our host was a small
man about seventy years of age, showing more
negro blood than his brother, to whom he was
said to be greatly inferior in ability. He re-
ceived us in an octagon room measuring about
twenty-five feet from side to side, with a lofty
green-painted ceiling, and green-and-white tiled
floor spread with rich carpets. One side of this
apartment opened by a door into a long narrow
room, while the counterpart of this door and
room were placed exactly opposite. On the floor
of one of these outer rooms were squatted four-
teen fat and sleek ulemas of the 'highest rank;
gentlemen who combined the somewhat incon-
gruous professions of law and divinity. Amongst
them were some fine faces; that of a personage,
whose post corresponded with that of our Lord
ENTERTAINMENT BY THE GOVERNOR OF FEZ. 37
Chief Justice, was particularly striking. But
truth to say, what with the heat, the monotony
of the music intended to entertain us, and of
looking at wretched Franks feeding — all this
combined intellect of the land was soon uncon-
scious of our presence. In a word, the magnates
fell asleep! In the opposite room, a number of
merchants, chiefly from Fez, were congregated.
Invitations had evidently been given to aU these
notables by our host, to come and see the Chris-
tians then on view.
This time we had napkins, plated forks, and
German painted tumblers, but the only thing
provided to put into the latter was tepid water.
All the time of dinner — about an hour — we had
to endure the noise of four singers and players
on a kind of fiddle and tambourine. The viands
and sweetmeats were much the same as at the
Prime Minister's.
We also dined at the Grand Chamberlain's,
Hadge Mahomed Ben Aish, a burly, big-featured,
but good-natured looking man. He entertained
us in a room opening on to a really nice garden,
laid out with tiled walks, tanks, and a fountain.
Our dinner service was the old willow pattern;
the forks, the old steel ones. The apartment was
handsomely decorated in the Moorish style, but
spoiled by articles from Europe. There were
great bunches of tawdry artificial flowers under
tall glass shades on shelves at each end of the
38 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
room ; two moderate-sized mirrors in gold frames,
and, most objectionable of all, four clocks, two
smaller French ones, and two larger, all ticking
away. In another room were two other clocks.
Our host's passion for clocks was very remark-
able.
The commandant of the soldiers who accom-
panied us from Tangier, Kaid Mehedi, lived at
Mequinez, and his invitation could not be refused.
Here there was no taint of Europe. He gave
us baked mutton, fowls, and kuscussoo, which we
consumed in true Moorish style, without knife or
fork, using only the right hand, an awkward
proceeding for a novice, but in accordance with
etiquette. The upper room in which we dined
looked into a small patio below, and here the
gimberi and tom-tom players were placed, and
also a dancer and clever contortionist. One of his
performances was very curious: while standing
he bent his body backwards so as to pick with
his eyelids a pin out of a handkerchief on the
ground. A whole crowd of veiled women and
children looked down on these performances from
the roof of the house. One wondered where
they could have come from, but it soon appeared
that the inmates of neighbouring harems had,
according to custom, climbed from their own roofs,
attracted by the chance of a little excitement in
the dull routine of their lives.
One more Moorish feast must be mentioned.
the sultan's enteetainment. 39
Although not honouring us by his presence, the
Sultan entertained us right royally. It was at
a summer house in the Basha's garden, where
the chef of the palace was sent to superintend
the proceedings. The numerous dishes were
heated on the spot, and all agreed that the royal
cooks understood the mystery of flavours, and
especially the management of garlic, in perfection.
We were also feasted by some of the rich
Jews, and visited many of their houses. Here
we were of course allowed to see the women,
and the conclusion arrived at was that the
daughters of Israel did not share equally in the
alleged charms of the veiled beauties of Mequinez.
Few of the Jewesses were handsome; they
were in general fat and flabby. In one house
we saw a married lady nine years of age, the
husband being thirteen ; they were, as well they
might be, a very shy couple, and tried to avoid
observation.
The condition of the Jews at Mequinez and
Fez is much the same as it is in the city of
Morocco, elsewhere fully described.* In the
midst of insult and bad treatment, they manage
to exist, and a few of them to become rich. It
was painful to see the manner in which our
guards ill-treated any unfortunate Israelite that
happened to press upon us in our progress through
* See " Morocco and the Moors," page 179.
40 VISIT TO THE COURT OP MOROCCO.
tho streets. One poor wretch was thrown down
with such violence that his shoulder-bone was
broken. A small sum of money subscribed
between us quite consoled him for the injury.
Probably a similar sum would have compensated
him for the like injury to the other shoulder.
It is curious, however, how tyranny makes tyrante.
Wo could not fail to observe that in their own
quarter tho headmen of the Jewish community
knocked the populace about almost in the same
way.
One day a request came through the Prime
Minister that I should go in a professional
capacity to the Sultan's palace. As this gave me
the rare opportunity of visiting the interior of
this huge place, I shall describe what I saw.
Mr. Butler was allowed to accompany me as
interpreter.
We entered by the same gate as when re-
ceived by the Sultan, and passing, as before,
through different enclosures, were led into a wide
straight street, at least one-third of a mile in
length. At each side were solid walls of sun-
dried clay, about flve-and-thirty feet in height.
It looked like a yard in Newgate indefinitely
prolonged. In one of the walls were small door-
ways which opened into public offices, and around
these doorways were crowds of men and horses.
Passing through one of these doors, we found
Ives in a small courtyard, and from that
■
THE SULTAN 1 *! I' A LACK, 41
we were ushered into u dark apartment, Tli«
state of things hero was extraordinary ; on one
side were bales and boxes of good* piled up to
the vaulted roof, other* were scattered about,
and on some of these we were invited to seat
ourselves. One side of the room whs, however,
less encumbered, and here, on a narrow strip
of carpet, placed close to the walls, sal several
greybearded, grave personages, jtofore each mm
a box and a little unpainted desk, and all were
writing or counting money. These were high
officials, transacting business connected Willi the
state. One was the Commander-in-Chief of (lie
askars, another the head of the treasury, and ho
on. Another cellar-like room on the opposite
side of the courtyard was the office of the Prime
Minister himself, and wo wore told tlmt he
sometimes preferred transacting business seated
on a carpet spread in tho open court. There
was a rough-and-ready crudonoss, with a dash
of barbarism, about the whole thing, that was
refreshing. To realize the situation, tho Duke
of Cambridge and Sir Stafford Northcote must
be imagined seated on the floor of a dark room,
say, in the Custom House, crowded with mer-
chandise, and Lord Beaconsfield squatted on a
rug in a cellar, or in Palace Yard, while con-
ducting the important business of their respec-
tive departments 1
We had sufficient opportunity to take in all the
42 VISIT TO THE COUET OF MOROCCO.
surroundings here, and time was beginning to
drag slowly, when we were again conducted
into the broad avenue, and almost to its further
extremity. Banged along one of the high walls
were a large number of marble pillars, in pieces
of about five feet long by three in diameter.
The Ionic capitals were collected in another place.
These pillars were said to have belonged to a
part of the palace erected by Muley Ishmael,
now in ruins, and to have been brought from
Leghorn. It is difficult to imagine how they
could have been conveyed from the coast. The
Stiltan Muley Sliman greatly enlarged the palace,
which was built more than a century and a-half
ago by Muley Ishmael. The building, with its
green tiled roof, which contained the tomb of
Muley Sliman, was a conspicuous object within
the palace enclosure. Everything grand was
attributed to this potentate.
From the great avenue, we entered another high-
walled enclosure, in part lined by a piazza. In the
open space stood a little mosque within a kind of
yard. There was now a great discussion about the
admission of Christians within the precincts of a
mosque, which was cut short by the officer who con-
ducted us, saying that the Sultan commanded it.
Here in a small lodge attached to the mosque lay the
object of my visit; not a patient, as expected, but
a corpse. It was that of a young negro girl about
whose death suspicion of foul play had arisen.
A DELICATE INVESTIGATION. 43
All that I could learn was that she had been an
inmate of the harem, and although in her usual
health that morning, died suddenly about noon.
Two women at my request lifted the body out of
the little dark hut, and placed it on the ground
under the shade of a trellised vine. I was requested
to observe whether there were marks of strangula-
tion or other violence, which were negatived, and to
say whether death was caused by poison; but from a
superficial examination of the body no reply could be
made to this question. The Moors maintained, on
the contrary, that inspection of the tongue would
enable me to settle the point, even to the extent of
saying what particular poison had destroyed life.
This knowledge, although thrust upon me, I did
not choose to claim. Meantime Mr. Butler coun-
selled prudence in speech, lest some innocent wretch
might lose a head in the matter before sunset.
Silence is golden in such a case, and I got out of
the difficulty by promising a written statement,
which was afterwards handed to Sid Moosa to be
translated for the Sultan's consideration.
The Maghasen, or palace enclosure, at Mequinez
was of square shape, and about a mile across. It
was placed in the south of the town, and included
gardens, and also in its south angle a square tank,
about four acres in extent. Spaces, some the size
of large London squares, surrounded by high walls,
one opening into the other as already described,
gave the impression of a prison on a gigantic scale.
44 VISIT TO THE COUBT OF MOROCCO.
There was no palatial pile of buildings in our sense
of the words. A number of long narrow rooms,
sometimes quite isolated, formed the chief apartments.
There were also a good many square or oblong
rooms, with sloping green-tiled roofs. These
served for reception rooms, storehouses, and other
purposes.
It may be asked what the Moors seemed to think
or say about the war then raging, in which their co-
religionists were so hardly pressed by the Eussians.
The answer is, nothing at all. The Ambassador had
a long private interview with the Sultan in one of
his garden houses, during which His Majesty never
alluded to the subject. In the many interviews
which we had with the Prime Minister the subject
was only once touched on in a casual way. For this
there are several reasons. The Stamboul Sultan
is not regarded by the Moors as the head of their
religion. In a certain sense, they may be looked on
as Protestants ; their own sovereign is the head of
their Church, and not the potentate whose religious
sway, like the Pope's, extends over various nation-
alities. Between Turk and Moor there is, there-
fore, no political tie. Moreover, the policy of the
Moorish government is that of isolation. As regards
the outer world, their motto is, " Let us alone and
we shall leave you alone." And without doubt it is a
sensible policy. They instinctively feel that, as they
are so much behind other nations, and are unable to
cope with them in arms, independence lies in isola-
THE MOOES AND THE TURKISH WAR. 45
tion. When told of European progress and improve-
ments, they reply that these things are suited for
others but not for them. And with the example of
Turkey before them, it does seem that in these
matters there is no middle way of safety. If, like
the Japanese, the Moors adopted the policy along
with the arts of Europe, they might take their place
among the nations as a strong State. But against
this course their religion presents an insuperable
barrier.
At Alcassar, a native of Algiers who spoke
French, visited us. He said he was an envoy from
Turkey to the Sultan of Morocco to ask for assist-
ance against Eussia. He told us he was then em-
ployed in trying to excite the people by religious
enthusiasm. But he seemed to succeed very badly,
and we much doubted whether he was really ac-
credited by the Porte.
A guard of twenty askars with an officer always
stood or squatted in the street outside the door of
the Embassy. It was kindly arranged by the
Ambassador that we could at any time obtain an
escort for our many walks and rides. All went off
smoothly except on one occasion, when I ventured
with my wife through the great open space in
the city at a time when it was filled with the scum
of the populace witnessing powder-play and other
games in honour of the wedding of the Prime
Minister's son. We were scowled at and hooted ;
the presence of infidels seemed, in fact, to have a
46 VISIT TO THE COUET OF MOROCCO.
very disturbing effect upon the lighter moments of
the followers of the Prophet. Our guards closed
round, the captain drew his sword and looked fierce,
and we were fortunately soon extricated from the
excited crowd through a gate which led outside the
town walls. It was then noticed that a mounted
man followed us closely, although warned off, and
moreover, that he more than once aimed at my wife
with his long gun. Three of our guards now rush-
ing upon him, instantly dragged him from his horse,
and deprived him of his weapon. The matter was
afterwards hushed up, so that we never could ascer-
tain what punishment the man received, whether the
gun was loaded or whether it was returned to him.
The probability was that the askars extracted a fine
from the man on their own account as the price of
not putting the matter in the hands of the higher
authorities.
Some days after our public reception by the
Sultan, a procession, headed by an official, arrived
from the palace with presents, all methodically
ticketed, for the various members of the Embassy.
Besides other articles, the Ambassador was presented
with a magnificent black horse and his trappings,
the saddle of huge dimensions, its cover of green
velvet encrusted with gold embroidery, with fire-
shovel-like stirrups, and bridle-bits heavily gilt.
Other members of the Embassy, both ladies and
gentlemen, received a horse or a mule each, and the
gentlemen a finely ornamented sword. My wife,
THE SULTANS PRESENTS. 47
whose popularity amongst the ladies of Sid Moosa's
harem had perhaps something to do with the matter,
was presented, besides a nice little Barb horse, with
some finely embroidered articles, which were duly
appreciated. For myself, I was consoled with a hand-
some silver-mounted sword, with gold-embroidered
belt. The quantity of cotton cloths, haics, belts,
and slippers distributed amongst the servants would
have made the fortunes of a dozen shopkeepers in
the bazaar.
The Sultan of Morocco never moves without
an army at his heels. The plain to the south of
the city was covered with the conical tents of a
host that could not have numbered less than ten
thousand men. We often passed through them,
and were invariably treated with respect. It was
pleasant to see the groups of swarthy men cook-
ing, playing draughts, or otherwise amusing them-
selves. In their midst was the Sultan's tent,
distinguished only by its greater size and by a
canvas wall that ran round it so as to form a
circular courtyard.
One Friday, when the Sultan went to the
mosque and reviewed his troops, I witnessed
their return to camp through the palace gate.
Each regiment was preceded by its officers to
the number of seven or eight ; then came hatchet-
armed pioneers, then drummers and buglers all
in fall thrum and blast. Next the rank-and-file
in rows of three, four, five, six, seven, or eight
48 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
deep, apparently according to their own sweet
will. The marching was what might be expected
from such an arrangement. As to size, age, and
other respects, our volunteer regiments present
uniformity itself in comparison. Some were
stooping greybeards, others boys of fourteen or
fifteen years of age, some pure negroes, many
half-breeds, but the majority were pure Arabs.
The dress was a red flannel jacket and waistcoat
with blue cotton trousers or rather breeches, for
the legs were bare from the knee. Here and
there blue-coated men might be seen, and the
regimental flags were in some cases red, and in
others quarantine yellow. All the men wore
slippers down at the heels, to walk in which, an
art in itself, is by no means conducive to the
regularity of a " march past." They were armed
with old flint and percussion muskets intermixed.
The kaids or colonels were the only mounted
men. Whether from love or fear, probably the
latter, the officers were held in due respect. One
of my guards rushed at his kaid as he rode
slowly past, and kissed his knees in a very affec-
tionate manner.
After the long procession of regulars (?) had
passed, there issued forth a mob of mounted
white-robed cavalry, the Bashi-Bazouks of the
Moorish army.
But so far as concerns military discipline, after
many previous failures, the Moorish Government
DISCIPLINING THE MOORISH ARMY. 49
seem resolved on adopting the tactics of Europe
in good earnest. A few of their soldiers were
being trained in the garrison of Gibraltar, and
Lieutenant Maclean, a young officer of great
promise in the English service, had recently been
appointed instructor-in-chief with the title of
kaid. At Tangier I had the pleasure of accom-
panying him on the occasion of his first drill.
As this was necessarily conducted through an
interpreter, it was particularly hard work. But
intelligence and good physique, the two main
factors in the formation of troops, were plainly
marked in the disorderly mob of fifty or sixty
men who turned out. It was comical to see the
anxiety of the officers to make a good appearance
for the nonce as the men took ground for their
new experience. An idea of the rudimentary
state of the Moorish tactics may be obtained
when it is stated that the simple formation in
fours was unknown in the Moorish army.
£
CHAPTER III.
Leave Mequinez — A Cool Retreat for Breakfast — Fez —
Gardens versus Drawing Rooms — Gigantic Myrtles —
Description of the City — Shopkeepers — Complexion of the
Citizens — Libraries— Palace of Lallah Amina — Slavery —
Return Journey — A Lady's Maid's Adventure — Water
Tortoises — Larache — Dangerous Ball Practice — Hot
Weather — Arrival at Tangier.
It will be remembered that our destination was
in the first instance Fez, until obliged to follow the
movements of the Sultan to Mequinez. Sixteen
days' residence in the latter place had exhausted all
the sights, and His Majesty expressed a wish that
we should visit his northern capital. The Spanish
proverb says, " See Seville and die." In the eyes
of the Moors, Fez seems to take the place of Seville :
Mequinez was held to be perfect in its way, but
everything was to be seen, everything on earth was
to be had at Fez ; and to Fez we accordingly
directed our course.
We left Mequinez by its northern gate, outside
which were some fine perennial springs, at which
men were perpetually engaged in washing clothes,
or else themselves or their horses. The rising
•» .»
• •• J
> •'
> .>
LEAVE &BQUINEZ. 51
■ * ■ * ■
ground beyond this commanded a -View of the town
which was really grand. Then cattie olive planta-
tions of great extent, enclosed by a lofcg'wall at
about two miles distance from the town. Ten -miles
farther on we came to a small river, the Wad Jedi cTa:
It was spanned by a substantial bridge of brick and
stone with a platform like a piece of a towing
path beneath the arch at each side. Our breakfast
was spread on one of these, so that we had perfect
shelter from the sun's rays. It was a lovely
spot. Oleanders and other luxuriant shrubs fringed
the banks, and vines clustered round them;
where the ground was drier, the beautiful flowers
of the caper plant bloomed profusely. The river
was full of a kind of perch, which amused us
greatly by the scramble which every bit of bread
thrown to them produced. Here we lingered, but
once on the move, did not stop until we had
reached the Wad Enga, close to which our tents
were pitched.
We entered Fez on the following morning,
June 24th. The distance, according to my com-
putation from Mequinez, was thirty-four miles.
This time there was no public recognition of the
Embassy, but the Basha and some of the notables
of the town accompanied us.
A garden affords the most primitive, as well as
the most ancient, idea of a resting place. In the
Moorish mind the idea of its appropriateness still
prevails. Where in Europe guests would be intro-
e 2
•
• • • •
52 visit to the eaiBjar of moeocco.
•• •_ •
• • ••
duced to a drawiiu^room, in Morocco they are taken
• * m ^ »
to a gardd£. # :^Ve were at once conducted to the
Sult^jr^gdrden, situated between Old and New Fez.
.•JKrer we rested in a shaded arbour.
: ••''As far a* concernedluxuria.it verdure, irrigation,
the gift of the adjoining river, made the place a
paradise. The orange groves were magnificent, but
what struck us in particular was a row of myrtles
in full bloom, having trunks like forest trees, fully
forty feet in height. The jessamines were also
gigantic. The palace buildings adjoined this
enclosure, and in a shed opening into the garden
were a couple of the quaintest looking carriages
ever seen. One was a kind of two-wheeled
brougham; both were painted and decorated in a
curious manner. Most likely they were presents
brought by some former embassy, and had never
once been used. They were now mere dilapidated
wrecks.
As it was resolved that we should not take up
quarters in the city, we encamped on the bank of a
branch of the Sebou, about half a mile from the
city wall.
The city appeared to be about two miles and a
half in length, but narrow. It was surrounded by
hills, those on the south side being so close that the
place was overlooked by them. From this eleva-
tion, with its mosques, minarets, countless houses,
and towering palms, the view was really imposing
— imposing in more than the aesthetic sense, for
FEZ. 53
distance, beyond any question in Morocco, lends
enchantment. The town was divided by the river
into Old and New Fez, the former being by far the
most extensive, and the seat of the great industries
of the place. We rode through a very long street,
but only about seven feet wide, running east and
west through the whole of Old Fez, the Oxford
Street of the place. It was paved in some parts
with stones the size and shape of cocoa-nuts, and
actually polished by constant traffic. In some spots
there were steep hills, and here the smoothness of
the stones made it exceedingly difficult even for
mules to travel. The famous Karubin, the largest
mosque in Morocco, was placed on one side of this
street. It was an immense building, and by peeps
into its several doors we could see its endless
array of pillars, and get some idea of the vast but
perfectly plain interior. The shops were the usual
square cells, raised some feet from the ground,
open entirely in front, but larger than in other
towns. They were well stocked with all kinds of
merchandise.
The Moorish shopkeeper, who sits precisely in the
same way as the Turkish, with all his wares within
easy reach, is a less dignified personage, being more
astute and eager to make sales. The Fez trader
is, however, polite enough, and will ask you to
take coffee, always obtainable from a neighbouring
stall, to induce you to stay and bargain for his
goods.
54 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
In some places, there were groups of shops in
which the sellers were, also the makers of their
several wares. Such were the gunmakers, silver-
smiths, embroiderers in gold on cloth and leather,
&c. We found that these men possessed little or
no stock-in-trade. Everything was made to order,
so that it was more difficult to obtain speci-
mens of Moorish art than we were led to believe.
The pottery, for which the place is famous, is coarse
in texture and cheap in price, but really effective
in the blending and arrangement of colour and
variety of shape.
Many of the streets were covered with an open
roof of interlaced reeds, over which vines spread in
great luxuriance. These roofs, and any projections
from the houses, were festooned with cobwebs,
while the footway below was covered with dust
and dirt. The Funduks or warehouses of the
wholesale merchants had usually galleries sur-
rounding their small square enclosures, the balus-
trades being unpointed and broken. Everything
was shabby and mean, judged by the European
standard. But what astonished us most of all was
the extreme narrowness of the streets in which the
private houses were situated. In some instances it
would not be possible for two men to walk side by
side. Nothing more dismal or cheerless could
be imagined than such narrow chasms between
high windowless walls. And yet these were the
avenues by means of which the opulent citizens
FEZ. 55
gained access, through little doors, to courtyards
with marble fountains, and in their way well-
appointed houses.
Fez is computed to contain about 50,000 inhabi-
tants, and the wealth of the place is considerable.
Its chief industries consist in weaving, tanning, and
potteries ; the red cap, for the production of which
it is famous, is universally known by the name of
the place itself.
The stifling heat, increased by the crowd which
always followed us, made shopping in Fez irksome
work. But we were treated always with courtesy
and respect.
The condition of the Jews here is as bad as in
other places in the interior of Morocco, and yet
here, as elsewhere, some Hebrews contrive not only
to live but to grow rich.
The pallor of the citizens of Fez, compared with
the bronzed faces of the country Moors, is striking.
It is an earthy or dirty-white paleness, which gives
them a sickly look, and is without doubt due to
etiolation. They rarely go outside the city walls,
and inside, the sun, owing to the narrowness of
the streets, hardly ever reaches them. But not-
withstanding this, it does not seem to be an un-
healthy community. The dryness of the climate
prevents many of the bad effects of decomposition,
while there is no lack of water to clear away the
sewage. Every house of any pretensions has its
own fountain, and public conduits and drinking
56 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
fountains are numerous. The water disagrees re-
markably with strangers, and the Spanish and
German Embassies which preceded us suffered
greatly. At my suggestion, water for our use
was brought from a distance, and we escaped.
It is said that Fez contains collections of books and
manuscripts in the precincts of some of the mosques,
the relics of days prior to the decadence of Moorish
power and intelligence. And it has been supposed
that amongst these neglected records may lie some
precious remains of antiquity, such as the wanting
Books of Livy. Perhaps the place affords the last
chance of recovering such literary treasures. Every
other part of the world that might contain them has
probably been already searched. I therefore set
before myself the task of obtaining access to
these libraries. But, notwithstanding that I was
personally promised by Sid Abdalla Ben Hamed,
the Governor of Fez, then in attendance on the
Sultan at Mequinez, that he would write to his son,
the Acting-Governor of Fez, telling him to give
me access to the collections, and that the applica-
tion was backed by a letter from the Sharif of
Wazzan, all efforts were in vain. It seemed to be
one of the many points upon which the Moors have
resolved either not to gratify the curiosity or to
submit to the interference of Europeans. Excuses,
subterfuges, evasions, in all of which the Moor is
facile princeps, were brought into play, and I never
saw book or manuscript.
s
PALACE OF TiATiLAW AMINA. 57
About two miles from Fez was the extensive
palace called Lallah Amina, a favourite residence
of the Sultan. It was placed in the midst of a
very large garden, and there was an open space
for the exercise of troops. We were shown a
yard enclosed within high walls — one hundred
paces long by fifty wide — admirably paved
throughout with coloured tiles arranged in patterns.
At each end was a windowless apartment, faced
by a colonnade, corresponding in length with the
width of the yard. There is a Spartan simplicity
about all Moorish palaces. This particular one
is said to have been built in the good old
piratical times by captives, the majority of whom
were Englishmen.
But if the old days of foreign slavery are
gone for ever, there was no lack of the domestic
element, which was maintained with rigour.
A great addition was being made to the palace
enclosure at New Fez close to our camp. The
walls were constructed of tapia — consisting of a
mixture of clay and lime, put into a casing
made of parallel boards, . and rammed well into a
compact mass, after the method of our own south-
coast builders. As the work progressed, the
boards were raised and the process repeated.
Gangs of black slaves were incessantly employed
from daybreak to four o'clock in the afternoon at
this labour. That they were kept closely at work
was made evident by the perpetual song or wail
58 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
which the wretches uttered while the heavy
rammers were all raised and brought down to-
gether. There was a cart drawn tandem by mules
in attendance upon this work, the only wheeled
vehicle, except the Sultan's coach, we had seen
in the country.
Three days sufficed for our visit to Fez, and
we left by a route to the east of that commonly
travelled, as affording a better road when the
weather is dry. For a short distance it con-
sisted of a broad avenue bordered with aloes.
Farther on we came upon one of those surprises
here and there met with in Morocco. It was a
small lake, apparently frozen and snow-covered,
under a burning sun. What seemed to be snow
was salt, left after evaporation of the water,
in which it was held in solution. The whole
route to Woled Jemah, where we stopped, was
a succession of hills, the soil in the latter part
of it being very thin and chalky, and here caper
bushes in splendid flower grew in profusion.
As our object was now dispatch, we made
afternoon as well as morning journeys. Two
hours from Woled Jemah brought us to a ford
of the Sebou, where it was about one hundred and
fifty yards across. Here an amusing incident
occurred. Senhora Cola^'s Spanish maid, Dolores
by name, was no horsewoman. Not being able
to ride in the ordinary way, she made the journey
seated in a kind of saddle chair used in Portugal,
a lady's maid's adventure. 59
Dolores expressed great . horror at the prospect
of having to cross the wide expanse of water
which the river presented. But between cross-
ing and being left behind there was no choice.
Arrived at mid-stream, however, all the maiden's
courage deserted her, and with one wild shriek
she fell or threw herself into the water. Whether
the episode was more tragic or comic, it
wotdd be hard to say. Any one might suppose
that the last moments of the poor maiden had
arrived, an opinion, without any doubt, held by
herself. No threats and no entreaties could
induce her to remount. The situation reminded
one strongly of primitive baptism by immersion.
The swarthy, grinning Moor that led her by the
hand grotesquely represented an early father of
the Church, while she might be supposed to be
possessed of any number of devils strongly object-
ing through her mouthpiece to the sacred cere-
mony. Immersed to the waist for the greater
part of the journey, and protesting with all her
might that once back to Tangier her acquaint-
ance with the interior of Morocco had for ever
ceased, the opposite bank was at last reached.
Two journeys made the next day over hill and
plain, in the course of which the wide river
Wurga was forded, brought us to Hadcour.
It was a real relief to get on without let or
hindrance on the score of ceremony or powder-
play.
60 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
We breakfasted on the following day on the
bank of a stream beautifully shaded by orange
and fig trees. The surface of the water was
broken now and then by tortoises popping up
their heads to breathe. These unsavoury crea-
tures — for they emit a nauseous odour — had a
keen eye, or perhaps nose, for what was going on.
Several big lumbering fellows soon crawled on
to the bank, and seized greedily upon any frag-
ments of meat or bread they could lay hold upon.
It was a case of voracity versus timidity, in which
the first prevailed.
That evening we reached our old encampment
at Alcassar.
After leaving Alcassar, and having crossed the
Lucos, our course lay westward through a country
studded with cork oak trees. Here, in a small
stream, some nearly naked boys were engaged in
eel-fishing after a novel fashion. They were
armed with knobbed sticks, with the small ends
of which they poked the banks to start their
game, and then clubbed them dexterously with
the heavy ends.
On nearing the town of Larache, we were met
by the Governor with a guard of askars, and a
band of drums and bugles. As we passed, the
soldiers presented arms after a manner, and the
band, greatly to our astonishment, struck up the
Rogue's March! The Moors are not adepts in
European music, and the selection in the present
LABACHE. 61
case in honour of the Ambassador and his suite
could hardly be, considered happy.
El Araish, corrupted by Europeans into Larache,
is picturesquely situated at the mouth of the
river Lucos, itself a corruption for El Kus.
A treacherous bar, marked by the remains of
vessels projecting out of the sandbanks, prevents
the port from being much frequented. These
remains gave the place a melancholy aspect.
The mind pictured to itself a vessel like a thing
of life rushing to unseen destruction. And the
denuded timbers recalled the ghastly spectacle of
some skeleton with its fleshless ribs of camel or
horse, or even of man himself, as one has seen
them on some lonely desert.
Larache is built on a steep hill rising from the
sea. Like all Moorish towns, it is surrounded
by a high wall with battlements. The streets are
fairly wide, and this, as well as some existing
buildings, are due to a previous occupation by the
Portuguese. The population is about 4,000, one-
sixth of which are Jews, and there are sixty-
seven Europeans, all told. To Mr. L. Ford,
the one solitary English resident, we were in-
debted for much attention.
We crossed the river in a boat with fourteen
rowers, reminding one of the galleys of former
days. Our route now lay over sand hills, and
then over hills covered with myrtles and other
62 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO.
shrubs in full bloom. At length the route by
which we came was struck at Besana, and later
on Garbia was reached.
Our Moors were here highly entertained by a
professional shooter of the William Tell school,
who came into camp. This man had a com-
panion, who fixed an onion by its stalk on the
top of his head so that it stood clear of it by
a couple of inches. The game was to shoot the
onion off the man's head without killing him.
The marksman stood, or sat, or lay down at a
distance of about five yards from the onion, and
hit the mark once in three or four times amid
the applause of the spectators. The gun used
was the ordinary unwieldy Moorish weapon,
and leaden bolts were extemporaneously beaten
out to fit it by means of a hammer and small
anvil carried for the purpose.
During this home journey, the sun's rays late
aad JJ we *J oaring to ariL, a.
well as to men. The horses suffered much, and we
noticed that sheep which we passed adopted a
curious mode of sheltering themselves. They stood
in groups, one having its head under the stomach
of the other.
However, we reached Tangier safely on July
2nd, the sixth day from leaving Fez, and exactly
six weeks from our departure.
I may be allowed, in conclusion, to express our
ARRIVAL AT TANGIER. 63
obligations to Senhor and Senhora Colaijo for much
courtesy and kindness, and to the other members of
the party for many attentions which tended to
make the journey pleasant. The gracious acts,
and the uniform politeness, of the Moorish
authorities, are also gratefully acknowledged.
APPENDIX A.
Three centuries ago, on August 4th, 1578, the tragedy
known in Portuguese history as the battle of Alcassar el
Kebir took place. A short account of it may interest
the reader.*
To possess himself of the whole empire of Morocco,
where he already held Tangier and other towns on the coast,
was the great ambition of Don Sebastian, the young king.
The monarchy was at the time badly prepared for such
a strain on its resources as a Moorish war, on account of
the recent conquests and settlements in India. Troops
were, however, sought after in all possible quarters. A
small contingent of six or seven hundred Pontifical
soldiers was obtained in so strange a way as to be worth
special notice.
Thomas Stukeley, an Englishman, said to have been
created Marquis of Leinster by the Pope, sailed from
Civita Vecchia as commander of this force. It was
destined to aid a rebellion in Ireland, and the Genoese
vessel in which it was embarked put into Lisbon at the
* This account is mainly taken from a very interesting work,
" Les Faux Don Sebastien," par Miguel D'Antas. Paris, 1866. The
distinguished author is the present representative of Portugal at the
British Court.
F
66 APPENDIX A.
moment when the king was in the midst of his warlike
preparations. He contrived to excite the hopes of the
soldiers and of their commander so effectually that they
abandoned the design upon which they were despatched,
and took service against the heretic Moors instead of
against the heretic Queen Elizabeth.
Muley Ahmed Ben Abdallah, the Sultan's brother and
claimant of his throne, who was at Tangier, constantly
urged that an army should be sent to Africa, and that
success was certain. But he counselled that the king
should not accompany it, lest the party opposed to the
Sultan might suspect that the conquest and occupation of
the whole country was contemplated.
At length, on July 6th, the Portuguese forces reached
Tangier, and, after a short delay, proceeded to Arzila.
The Sultan Abd-el-Melek now made peaceful overtures to
the king, which were rejected with disdain.
On July 29 th the army left Arzila, and, after some
marching and counter-marching, proceeded along the
right bank of the M'Hassen river. The object in view
was to capture the town of Alcassar. On the night of
August 3rd, the army had on its left the M'Hassen,
and on its right another tributary of the Lucos. But
the provisions of this ill-starred expedition were already
falling short, and it was decided to cross the M'Hassen
at once. A bridge, which still exists, was used for
crossing, and as the engagement began immediately after,
it is sometimes called the Battle of the Bridge. Men and
officers were confident of success, and the young king,
urged by his courtiers, longed for the fray. One of them,
it is recorded, jocosely begged that, after the coming
victory, the Sultan's ears, which he said he would eat with
oil and vinegar, should be allotted to him.
The Portuguese army is stated to have numbered about
15,000 infantry, chiefly pikemen, and 2,400 cavalry, with
thirty-six pieces of artillery. The Moorish host is said
APPENDIX A. 67
to have numbered 40,000 cavalry with 14,000 or 15,000
infantry, accompanied by forty cannon. His Moorish
ally counselled Sebastian not to provoke a battle until the
sun's rays were declining, urging that the Moors could so
much better than the Europeans endure the mid-day heat.
But no warning availed with the doomed monarch.
In the great plain which extends from the M'Hassen
to Alcassar, the ground is in one place slightly ele-
vated. It is said that the Sultan's infantry and artillery
drawn up here were carefully screened from view by a
vast quantity of boughs of trees conveyed to the spot,
so artfully arranged as to resemble a natural thicket.
Behind the hill the main body of the cavalry was posted,
while on each of its sides 10,000 mounted Arabs were
arranged as supports to the concealed centre of the host.
The gallant Portuguese army, led by the fiery young king,
always, and at this moment more than ever, jealous of the
supreme command, rushed into the jaws of this deadly
ambuscade. It was not until they arrived almost at the
foot of the hill, and when the Moorish cannon all at once
thundered upon them, that the mistake was discovered.
Discharge after discharge from the enemies' guns threw
the Christians, who, in the midst of their confusion, halted
for a brief prayer, into terrible disorder. The Portuguese
attack was partial, a large portion of the army having
remained inactive, a mishap caused, it is said, by the
folly of the king, who directed that no movement should
be made except by his express orders.
Now ensued a deadly encounter signalized by such
feats of arms as might be expected from valorous troops,
and the cavalry of the Duke d'Aveiro particularly dis-
tinguished themselves. A portion of the army penetrated
the Moorish host, so far that its commander, in an evil
moment, checked the advance. This was the turning-
point of the day. The Portuguese were now so closely
surrounded on all sides, that they had hardly space to use
f2
68 APPENDIX B.
their arms. Every attempt was made to save the king, who,
when he could have retreated, refused. Forgetting that
the part of the commander was not that of the actual
combatant, he headed more than one desperate charge
in which, while inflicting losses on the enemy, his own
followers fell in numbers. As a last effort a flag of truce
was displayed, and the Portuguese and Moorish officers
agreed to respect the royal person. But when asked to
give up his sword, Sebastian shouted in reply, "A king
should lose his liberty only with his life." While at the
same instant, followed by a few of his noble guards, he
dashed into the midst of his enemies. From that time
he was never again seen alive.
It was the death of this prince which caused such
calamities, owing to a disputed succession, to the realm of
Portugal, and led to its union with Spain for sixty years
afterwards. And it was the sad yet chivalrous ending of
his career, together with the uncertainty about his exact
fate in a barbarous land, that caused the young king to be
at last regarded as a supernatural personage. Year after
year his return from Africa was looked for, and even when
centuries had rolled by, the reappearance of Sebastian
was not regarded as an impossibility by the populace of
Portugal.
APPENDIX B. 69
APPENDIX B*
THE SITE OF THE EOMAN CITY OF VOLUBILIS.
The identification of an ancient city is always a matter
of great interest, and with this object in view I carefully
examined the remarkable ruins called Cassar Pharaon
(Pharaoh's Castle), situated about twelve miles north-east
from Mequinez, and about twenty-eight miles north-west
from Fez. The ruins lie out of the direct road to either of
these places ; but the fact that they have been so seldom
visited by Europeans is due not so much to this circum-
stance as to the extreme jealousy with which the adjacent
Zaouia or sanctuary of Muley Edris is guarded.
Eohlfs, who travelled as a Mussulman, and was thus
able to enter the sanctuary, makes no mention of the ruins.
He says, in connection with his visit, that he was " always
looked upon with distrust — to ask directly about any
place would not do at all, I should have been at once
denounced as a spy."t Following Leo Africanus, he sup-
poses the town of Muley Edris to occupy the site of Volu-
bilis. I shall have more to say on this subject hereafter.
This Muley Edris was the father of him of the same
name by whom the city of Fez was founded. The town
in connection with the sanctuary is placed on the southern
declivities of two cone-shaped elevations of a mountain,
called Zarhoun. The ruins are situated at a distance of
about two miles from the town upon a level platform,
in part supported by a wall, beyond which the ground
slopes abruptly towards the south. To the west of the
ruins, blocks of hewn stone are scattered over a con-
siderable space, with here and there Eoman carved
work in scrolls, and egg and tongue patterns, &c. All
* This description appeared in the Academy of June 29, 1878.
t " Adventures in Morocco," pp. 120, 199. By Dr. Gerhard Rohlfs.
(London, 1874.)
70 APPENDIX B.
these stones, as well as those of the standing portions of
the buildings and of the tombs, are of the same material
— namely, grey limestone.
The ruins appear to belong to the late Boman period.
One of them consists of the remains of a building which
measured externally thirty-six yards in length by twenty
yards in breadth. Two large archways still exist in the
portions of the walls that formed the ends of the
structure, as seen in the reproduction of a photograph
taken by myself. The southern wall, of which moat
remains, is about forty feet in height. It is interesting
to find that Windus — who visited the place 156 years
previously, under the same circumstances, having ac-
companied an embassy — gives a drawing and a short
description of the ruins.* He describes the ruin now
* " A Journey to Meqninez, &o. ; en the Occasion of Commodore
Stewart's Embassy thither for the Redemption of the British Captives
in the yew 1721" (London, 1725), p. 85.
APPENDIX B.
71
under consideration as the " good part of the front of a
large square building .... parts of the four corners
are yet standing, but very little remains, except these, of
the front." Since Windus ■wrote, the whole of the front
and the corresponding wall at the back have entirely
disappeared, except so much of them as is almost on a
level with the ground. No cement appears to have been
used, and the stones in the standing walls in some places
show spaces of an inch or two in the perpendicular join-
ings. In other cases, the blocks are in Buch positions as
to threaten to fall out of the edges of the walls. It is
plain that these effects could only have been produced by
a rocking movement in definite directions. It is almost
certain, therefore, that a succession of earthquake shocks
acting in the direction of north and south have prostrated
the front wall described by Windus, and at the same time
shaken the stones of the end walls loose in the manner
above described.
At a distance of 100 yards towards the north on the
72 APPENDIX B.
same platform, and facing in the same direction, but at a
slightly diverging angle, stand the remains of an arch.
The archway was twenty feet wide, and from the massive-
ness of the structure (as shown in the above view, also
from a photograph taken by me), and from the circum-
stance that its back and front were alike, it was probably
a triumphal arch. This was the opinion of Windus,
whose drawing of it represents the arch as unbroken.
Underneath it, he found six fragments of stones that
contained portions of inscriptions (also figured by him),
which he says, "were fixed higher [on the arch] than
any part now standing." A portion of one of these frag-
ments was identified by me. The remainder probably lie
buried in the debris of the fallen arch.* A mutilated
bust in bas-relief, figured by Windus, is also still to be
seen. Many pieces of pilasters, pillars, and Corinthian
capitals are strewn about the platform. Besides frag-
ments of buildings, the abrupt slope previously men-
* The fragment I saw contained slender-shaped letters about six
inches in length. All the portions of inscriptions figured by Windus
were too fragmentary for anything to be made out of them, and he
made no attempt of the kind. Sebaste, the Greek rendering of Au-
gustus, appeared on one of them, and the repetition of the letters
MAX indicated that the inscriptions were connected with something
imperial, probably the record of a triumph. Windus says of the
ruins : " Which the Moors call Cassar Pharaon (i.e. Pharaoh's Castle),
who they told us was a Christian, but could not give any further
account thereof. A draught of which, with the Inscriptions of
several stones found in the ruins, I have taken, for the consideration
of the curious." I have found another view of the ruins, in the
same state as when drawn by Windus, in a work entitled " Several
Voyages to Barbary " (2nd ed., London, 1736, p. 141). The only
reference to the plate is contained in the following passage. Speaking
of slaves at Mequinez, it is stated : — " One of them, Capt. Henry
Boyd (since deceased), having taken a plan of that place, with some
sketch of the slaves' employment there, we thought fit to insert it,
together with three other draughts of his, viz., a coast chart, some
Roman ruins, and a plan of Alcasar, which possibly may be accept-
able to the curious, tho' not immediately relating to the present
subject."
APPENDIX B. 73
tioned has upon it several tombs apparently still
intact. Two of these bear inscriptions of which Windus
makes no mention. The larger one is covered by a slab
almost on a level with the soiL Before describing this, I
have to make a few observations.
It was a curious coincidence that the inscription on
this slab, copied into a German journal, reached the
Academy at the same time (August 4th) that a letter of
mine, stating that I was about to make a communication
about Volubilis and its inscriptions, was already in type
for insertion in that journal. Circumstances prove that
the long-neglected inscription in question was copied
independently within a very few days by members of the
German Embassy to the Sultan and by myself, assisted
by the Portuguese Ambassador and Mr. C. Murdoch.
The thick slab in question is about five feet long by
three feet wide, and is badly fractured longitudinally.
The inscription is contained within a border of scroll-work
ornament. Here is an exact copy of that made with
much care by myself. The lines are numbered for con-
venience of reference : —
1QCAECILIOQFILIO
2. DOMITIANOCLVDIA
3. VOLVBILIIANODICV
4. RIONIMUNICIPII
5. VOLVBILIIANIAN
6. NORVMX QCAE
7. CIIIVSS ACRA
8. C I I I S I I C M
9. ANTONIANI
10. | | S I I I I O I I I
11. I O S
Note, in lines 7, 8, and 10, the repetition of the letter I
occurs because what is chiefly apparent in most cases is
that the letters possessed upright lines. It is easy, how-
ever, in the majority of the cases to make out the letters to
74 APPENDIX B.
which these lines undoubtedly belonged. The reading of
this by Prof. Mommsen, as given in the Academy August
4th, is : —
"Q(uinto) Ceecilio Q(uinti) filio Domitiano Claudia Yolubiliano,
decurioni municipii Yolubiliani, annorum XX, Q(uintus) Csecilius
(et) Antonia N(ata)lis filio pii(ssimo) postieru(nt)."
This agrees with my reading and interpretation, with
the following exceptions. It is, however, to be observed
that the exact copy of the inscription sent to this eminent
authority is not before us.
line 3. A letter is omitted: it is " Volubiliiano," or
" Volubilliano," not « Volubiliano."
line 5. The same omission occurs.
line 6. 1 could not decipher the letter which succeeded
X, owing to the fracture of the stone. The hiatus is
filled in the German copy by a second X.
Line 7. In my copy after " Caecilius," S occurs, and
with a hiatus of two or three letters, owing to the in-
creased damage from the fracture ; the letters " acra " are
quite readable. This portion of the inscription is not
included in the reading by Mommsen given above. But
he says : " I cannot decipher the cognomen and position
of the father; perhaps there stood something like 'Gra-
cilis legponis] I.'" Evidently these words were conjec-
tured by reading the antepenultimate letter of line 7 as
G, and making up the remainder from the letters and
portions of letters in line 8, except the last letter; this
is plainly M.
line 9. Both copies agree with the exception of the
last letter, which I make I, and Prof. Mommsen
conjecturally A.
Line 10. The letters are very imperfect, but from their
arrangement and general appearance, and comparison with
other inscriptions, no doubt can be entertained that the
words " Filio piissimo " were inscribed.
line 11. The same remarks apply to IOS, which is
certainly to be read " posuerunt."
APPENDIX B. 75
The circumstance that the monument is in memory of a
native of Volubilis, and one of its municipal officers, affords
strong presumptive evidence that it was placed at Volubilis.
The other monumental inscription is on the perpen-
dicular face of a block of stone about two feet square.
There are two holes in the top of the stone, which seem
to have been intended for attaching something to it,
possibly a statue. The inscription is as follows : —
M FABIO LI I LC I
ROQATOANXVI I
LEABI VSCR ISPVS
PATER
F I L I O P I I S S I M O
POS
"M(arco) Fabio .... Eogato An(norum) XVII
Leabius (sic) Crispus Pater Filio piissimo pos(uit)."
That Volubilis was an important place may be judged
from the ruins described — assuming, as I believe, that they
belonged to that city — and from the mention of it by
many ancient authors. Pliny says : *
"Ab Lixo XL. M. in Mediterraneo altera Augusti colonia est
Babba, Julia Campestris appellata; et tertia Banasa, LXXY. M.,
Valentia cognominata. Ab ea XXXY. M. pass. Volubilis oppidum
tantundem a mari utroque distans."
There can be no doubt that the Lixus river of Pliny is
identical with the modern El Kus or Lucos river. But as
the positions of Babba and Banasa are open to doubt, the
distances given here can help us little in fixing the
position of Volubilis. But the distance of the sanctuary
of Muley Edris from either sea — that is, from the Mediter-
ranean and the Atlantic — as shown on the best map of
Morocco,-f* accords well with Pliny's statement. The map
shows that Volubilis was somewhat nearer to the Atlantic
* "Natural History," B. v. c. 1.
t " Carte de l'Empire de Maroc. Reduite et grave" e au Depot
General de la Guerre." (Paris, 1848.)
76 APPENDIX B. .
than to the Mediterranean, if we place it close to Muley
Edris. But if it be assigned to the site of the modern
city of Fez it would be considerably nearer to the Mediter-
ranean than to the Atlantic. Ptolemy mentions OioAov-
jSiXfc in his tables of the positions . of places,* but it is
impossible in this case also to fix that of this city by his
aid.
In one edition of Pomponius Mela, Volubilis is men-
tioned as one of the principal cities of Mauretania
Tingitana;f ia another edition the word Dubritania is
substituted.?
The question arises whether the site of Volubilis was
not that of the modern city of Fez as alleged by some
authors. If the distances given in the Itinerarium
Antonini could be trusted, Fez must be adopted as the
site. He states that Volubilis was " Mill. pass, xvi" from
Aquae Dacicae.§ Hot springs were known to have
existed here, and at about the distance mentioned from
Fez is the hot sulphurous water of Ain Sidi Yussuf, which
is unquestionably identical with Aquae Dacicae. But
from the many known errors with regard to distances in
this author, it would be rash to accept his statement as a
proof.
Hemso says :—
" Volubilis, o Volobilis, da molti creduta Fas, ma pin preoisamente
la Tiulit, e Gualili dei secoli di mezzo, e la Zauiat Mula-Driss dei
nostrigiorni."§
In all that concerns Morocco, no author is so much quoted
as Leo, who wrote in the sixteenth century; and his
statements may in general be relied on. He asserts that
the town which contained the sepulchre of Muley Edris
on Mount Zarhoun, was called Gualili, and was built by
* " Geography," Book iv. c. 1.
t " Chorographia." Edit. Vossii (Frankerae, 1700).
t " Chorographia." Edit. Gustav Parthey (Berolini, 1867).
§ " Specchio geografico e statistipo dell' imperio di Marocco, del-
cayliere conte Jacopo Graberg di Hemso " (Geneva, 1834).
APPENDIX B. 77
the Eomans. Some author, struck perhaps by the possible
transmutation of Volubilis (not mentioned by Leo) into
Gualili, concluded that the modern town had succeeded to
the ancient one. This statement has been often repeated
without question. But a reference to Leo's work* will
show that he also speaks " of a certaine towne called the
Palace of Pharao," as being also founded by the Eomans,
and about eight miles from Gualili The distance here
given, even supposing the miles to be of the shortest
description, makes it improbable that Leo visited the
place. After combating the idea that the town was built
by Pharaoh, King of Egypt, he says: "I am rather of
opinion, by the Latine letters which are engraven on the
walles, that the Eomans built this towne."
My inquiries lead me to believe that the name Gualili
is not known in connection with Muley Edris at the
present time. And while I think it highly improbable
that an important city like Volubilis would be placed on
the steep declivity of a mountain, it seems to me reason-
able to suppose that from the proximity of the two places
the now obsolete name Gualili, assuming it to be derived
from Volubilis, would easily be transferred by mistake or
otherwise from one place to the other.
The position of the ruins is one admirably adapted for
an important city. It commands a fine view over an
extensive and fertile plain. It is central as regards the
northern portion of Morocco, and on the direct road to
many of the remoter parts. The ruins and inscriptions
are of particular interest, because they are the most
westerly remains of the far-extending Eoman Empire.
* "A Geographical Historie of Africa," by John Leo a More.
Translated by John Pory (London, 1600).
78 APPENDIX C.
APPENDIX C.
I ventured to test the influence I had gained at the
Moorish court by my connection with the embassy as well
as by the turn of events by asking certain favours. I
was aware that the high officials were by no means con-
ciliatory to strangers, and that a gentleman who had
approached the chief minister a short time previously
with an introduction from the best possible quarter was
not even granted an audience. I asked Sid Moosa to
obtain from the Sultan a document which should act
as a safe conduct for a journey to Timbuctoo, or at all
events as far as the Sultan's power extended. Not that
I had formed a definite plan for so perilous a journey,
but it seemed to me that as the greater includes the less,
I might obtain a passport of great value for a future
journey in the remoter parts of Morocco. Contrary to
the opinion of my friends, which was that the Moorish
Government would not issue a document which might be
a cause of embarrassment to them, the request was received
favourably. Sid Moosa had a paper drawn up, which
though short is of great power. Here is its fac_ simile.
APPENDIX C.
$^&&fc&6&'
Translation.
" Praise to the One God.
" There is no strength nor power but in God Almighty
the Most High.
"We have granted permission to the bearer, the English
Doctor, to travel in our Dominions protected by God, and
to visit the tribes who are under the control of the Govern-
ment, but he is not to expose (hia life) in parts where
they are not under control. We order our governors and
obedient tribes to take care of him, and give him assist-
ance, and to receive him with kindness and attention, so
that no injury may befall him from any one.
" Peace,
" 12 Jumad the Second, 1294.
(25th June, 1877.)"
80
APPENDIX D.
It is in the seal, which is that of the Sultan himself, that
the virtue of this edict resides. If handed to one of his
subjects, it is first reverently applied to his forehead and
then kissed devoutly. Such a passport, bearing the minis-
terial seal, is now and then issued, but one bearing the
Imperial talisman does not appear to have been given to
any previous traveller. As if to show still more good
faith in the matter, the paper was forwarded through the
hands of His Excellency Sir John Drummond Hay, at
Tangier, whose popularity with the Moorish Government
is very great. It was accompanied by a letter to him
from Sid Moosa, pointing out the danger of an attempt
to reach Timbuctoo. The fate that befel my application
to examine the libraries at Fez has been elsewhere de-
tailed.
APPENDIX D.
Itinerahy of journey from Tangier to Mequinez and Fez.
The distances were estimated from the walking pace of a
mule, namely four miles an hour. Stoppages even of five
minutes were always deducted. The temperature of the
atmosphere in the shade is also given : —
Date.
May
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
3 bo
§§
S &
h.min
3-30
8
5-40
4
4-20
2-35
2-40
0Q
Temperature in
the shade.
14
12
22|
16
171
10$
io§
H 2
a
Fah.
69
70
72
69
71
69
•i
Fah.
83
86
91
90
90
88
r
3
Fah.
74
71
72
73
70
72
73
Names of Stopping Places
and Remarks.
f Left Tangier; camped at
( Kaa el Urmil.
Garbia.
Klatta de Baissana.
Alcassar.
Ben Ouda.
Habassie.
Beni Hassan.
APPENDIX D.
81
Jotoney fbom Tangiee — continued.
Date.
May
28
29
30
31
June
i
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
J <*>
h.min
4-45
3.40
2
1-45
1-30
5-40
Temperature in
the shade.
19
14§
8
7
6
22$
Fah.
70
72
74
72
74
74
74
68
69
94
76
72
82
83
83
80
79
78
78
78
78
77
77
77
76
75
74
<6
Fah.
89
90
93
91
94
99
88
86
91
102
80
84
87
89
85
81
82
81
80
81
82
79
79
78
77
77
to
•a
3
Fah.
74
71
77
67
80
78
68
72
67
79
84
86
81
80
79
77
79
78
78
77
77
77
75
76
Names of Stopping Places
and Remarks.
Bokhara.
Zacouta.
A thunderstorm in the
evening, with some
rain.
Cassar Pharaon.
"Wad Cazar.
( Arrived at Mequinez ;
} total time spent in
I travelling, 39h. 25m. ;
' distance, 157§ miles.
Thunderstorm.
► Mequinez.
Thunderstorm.
{Left Mequinez : stopped
a little beyond Wad
Enga.
G
82
APPENDIX E.
Joukney from Tangier — continued.
Date.
Jane
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
July
1
h.min
245
6-50
845
7
510
655
535
11
27*
35
28
20f
27§
22*
Temperature in
the ih^ftr
Fah.
74
74
72
69
70
70
72
74
75
*
Fah.
98
91
•a
•r
Fah.
74
77
72
74
82
80
77
77
Names of Stopping Places
Fez ; time spent in tra-
velling between Me-
quinez and Fez, 8h.
25m. ; distance, 33}nu
if Left Fez; camped at
\ Hezana.
Hezana.
Hadcour.
Alcassar.
Larache.
I
1
Garbia.
Arrived at Tangier ;
time spent in travel-
ling from Fez to Tan-
gier, 40h. 15m.; dis-
tance. 161 miles.
APPENDIX E.
Before leaving with the Embassy, I made an excursion
with my wife to Tetuan, which was very interesting. In
that part of the country there is no difficulty on the score
of safety. My former guide, the redoubtable Kador,
accompanied us, together with a soldier mounted on a
sumpter mule.
In the early morning of May 10th, we rode out of the
south gate of Tangier for some distance along the smooth
sands of the bay. Then inland and over two small stone
APPENDIX E. 83
bridges across a winding river ; next along its banks
fringed with oleanders in full flower. The country was
astir for once. Much of it was cultivated, and ploughing
and maize-sowing were in active progress. Birds were in
full song, and here and there the blue convolvulus was
massed in large patches as effectively as if done by the
most skilful cultivator. In other places were patches of
mallows of bright pink and other colours. There had been
rain recently, and the contrast of various flowers set in
tender green charmed the eye. It is the custom with some
people to decry Morocco as an arid wilderness, but this
comes from the misfortune of only having seen it after or
during the long summer drought. Now and then we came
upon the beautiful white flowers of a bulb {Orndthogalum
arabicum)* besides other flowers quite new to us.
Plains and valleys and streams were traversed until at
length the Funduk, or so-called half-way house, with
its stone wall enclosure, was gained. The journey to this
place, which my aneroid showed to be 700 feet above the
sea level, occupied five hours and a half.
There were some fine olive trees close to a well of good
water, and here we lunched, in company with a gentleman
from lima, whose taste for travelling had brought him to
this out-of-the-way spot.
The road from this place lay through a mountain pass,
and was extremely rough and rocky. After the lapse of
an hour from starting, Tetuan was seen in the distance,
but soon disappeared. When again seen, the place
remained long in view, not seeming to become much
nearer, in spite of our exertions to reach it. At length
the stone bridge over the river that flows to Tetuan was
reached, and we entered the town soon afterwards. The
* A list of plants, collected by me during this visit to Morocco,
but chiefly on the journey with the Embassy, has been printed in the
" Spioilegium Flora Marooanee," by John Ball, F.R.S. (London, 1878) ;
a work of great industry.
84 APPENDIX E.
last portion of the journey occupied four hours and a half,
and, according to my computation, the distance between
Tangier and Tetuan was exactly forty miles.
We went to the house of Isaac Nahon, an Israelite, as
his named showed, and an obliging host. Here we took
our ease in our inn, tired enough after the long hot ride.
What then was our surprise to find that a courier came in
from Tangier, about an hour after our arrival, bringing me
a letter of introduction from Signor Cola^o for Signor
Salvador Hassan, the Spanish Vice-ConsuL The promised
letter had been forgotten, and was most kindly forwarded
after our departure from Tangier. Postal service in
Morocco is substituted by a class of couriers, who, by
practice, get over astonishing distances in a single day,
and maintain the same pace for many days together.
Nation's visitors' book dated from 1838, and contained
the names of many distinguished persons who have made
the journey from Tangier, or else came by sea.
Tetuan is situated in a verdant valley at the foot of
picturesque mountains, the highest of which, called Beni
Hosmar, form part of the lesser Atlas chain. The river
which flows by it, and which was said to contain real
trout, was flanked with orange orchards, and dotted with
the country houses of the townspeople. A swampy plain
extended towards the sea, and there was a road, probably
the best in all Morocco, six miles long through it to
San Martin, the port. This road was made by the
Spaniards during their three years' occupation of the
place, and boasted, we were told, of a traffic in which two
or three carts were conspicuous.
Tetuan is a much larger and more imposing place than
Tangier. The streets differed little from those of other
Moorish towns ; but there was a large open space of
between three and four acres in extent. On the north
side of this was a large mosque, while the other three
sides were surrounded by shops and workshops. These
APPENDIX E. 85
were almost all occupied by gunmakers, one of the chief of
whom, Hadge Abdeslam el Fassy, was good enough to tell
me much about his branch of industry — which was the
leading one of the place. The whole number of workshops
was about 100. But, contrary to what one would have
expected to find, there was a division of labour ; some
were barrel, others lock makers, others finishers. The
higher priced, gold inlaid specimens of these ungainly
flint-lock weapons must be admitted to have been fairly
well finished. But one could not help wondering why
the Moors in this matter, as in every thing else, per-
sistently ignore modern improvements.
A good deal of gold embroidery was done at Tetuan ;
and another branch of industry was the manufacture of
brackets, chests, and other wood work, ornamented with
arabesque painting, in brilliant colours. Slipper making
and other leather work was also carried on extensively.
Signor Hassan was good enough to take us to see the
houses of three rich Moors, as the best specimens which
the place afforded. They had, as usual, gardens, with
fine fruit trees attached to them ; also terraces, fountains,
and small ponds, containing gold fish, &c. The houses
were different, and in some respects better than any one
had seen in the interior of the country. Proximity to
Europe had plainly had its effect. Some of the rooms
were of large size, and besides being beautifully decorated
in the Moorish style with tiled floors, in elaborate patterns,
covered with rich carpets, were supported by pillars, and
had glass windows. The European ornaments could not
be praised; there were mirrors, artificial flowers, and
clocks without end. Musical boxes also prevailed.
Brackets, of Moorish design, held not only specimens of
Moorish pottery, but some very good pieces of china,
chiefly old Oriental These, of course, could not be pur-
chased. But who would have thought it ? Even Morocco
has been invaded by the insatiable bric-a-brac hunter.
86 APPENDIX E.
About five years previously the then Spanish vice-consul
set to work and bought up all the old china that he
could, which had hitherto found a resting place here.
According to Nation's account, he made a good harvest.
There was a Spanish convent at Tetuan, presided over by
Padre F. Jose de Larchundi, to whom I presented a
letter, and by whom I was courteously received. The
success of the mission in making converts was the same
as that of all missions amongst Moslems — none whatever.
Tetuan was stated to be a healthy place, in which
pulmonary consumption was almost unknown. Only two
or three lepers were known to be in the town.
On the third day after our arrival we left Tetuan by
the road already traversed — having the rare advantage of
a cloudy day for the journey — and reached Tangier safely.
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English Catalogue of Books {The). Published during 1863 to
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This Volume, occupying over 450 Pages, shows the Titles of
32,000 New Books and New Editions issued during Nine Years, with
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Establishment, as well as to every Learned and Literary Club and
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* # * Of the previous Volume, 1835 to 1862, very few remain on
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English Catalogue of Books (The) Supplements, 1863, 1864,
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Eight Cousins. See Alcott.
English Writers, Chapters for Self-Improvement in English
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A Strange Friendship. Crown 8vo, cloth, $s.
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Few (A) Hints on Proving Wills. Enlarged Edition, is.
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Forrest (John) Explorations in Australia. Being Mr. John
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io * Sampson Low, Marston, Gr* Co.'s
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Funny Foreigners and Eccentric Englishmen. 16 coloured
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f^AMES of Patience. See Cadogan.
^ Garvagh (Lord) The Pilgrim of Scandinavia. By Lord
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THE GENTLE LIFE SERIES.
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The Gentle Life. Essays in aid of the Formation of Character
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About in the World. Essays by the Author of " The Gentle
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Like unto Christ A New Translation of Thomas k Kempis'
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"The most extensive dictionary of quotation we have met with."— Notes and
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9
Lis t of Publications. 1 1
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TJie Silent Hour: Essays, Original and Selected. By the
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H
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Gouraud (Mdlle.) Four Gold Pieces. Numerous Illustrations.
Small post 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. See also Rose Library.
Government of M. Thiers. By Jules Simon. Translated from
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Gower (Lord Ronald) Handbook to the Art Galleries, Public
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The Castle Howard Portraits. 2 vols. , folio, cJL extra, 61. 6s.'
Greek Grammar. See Waller.
Guizofs History of France. Translated by Robert Black.
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" It supplies a want which has long been felt, and ought to be in the hands of all
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History of England. In 3 vols, of about 500 pp. each,
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Guillemin. See " World of Comets. "
Guyon (Mde.) Life. By Upham. 6th Edition, crown 8vo, 6s.
Guyot (A.) Physical Geography. By Arnold Guyot, Author
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TJABITA TLONS of Man in all Ages. See Le-Duc.
Hamilton (A. H. A., J.P.) See " Quarter Sessions."
Handbook to the Charities of London. See Low's.
Principal Schools of England. See Practical.
Half Hours of Blind Maris Holiday ; or, Summer and Winter
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Half Length Portraits. Short Studies of Notable Persons.
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Hall\\V. W.) How to Live Long; or, 1408 Health Maxims,
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Small post 8vo, cloth, 2s. Second Edition.
List of Publications. 1 3
Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates. See Dodge.
Healy(M.) A Summer's Romance. Crown 8vo, cloth, \os. 6d
The Home Theatre. Small post 8vo, $s. 6d.
Heart of Africa. Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the
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Heath {F. G). See " Fern World," " Fern Paradise," " Our
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Heber's (Bishop) Illustrated Edition of Hymns. With upwards
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Morocco, i&r. dd. and 21s. An entirely New Edition.
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Henderson (A.) Latin Proverbs and Quotations ; with Transla-
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History and Handbook of Photography. Translated from the
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Appendix by the late Mr. Henry Fox Talbot, giving an account of
his researches.
History of a Crime {The) ; Deposition of an Eye-witness. By
Victor Hugo. 4 vols., crown 8vo, 42J.
England. See Guizot.
France. See Guizot.
Russia. See Rambaud.
Merchant Shipping. See Lindsay.
United States. See Bryant.
• Ireland. By Standish O'Grady. Vol. I. ready, is. 6d.
History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power. With
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Hitherto. By the Author of " The Gayworthys." New Edition,
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Sampson Low, Marston, 6* Co.'s
How to Build a House. See Le-Duc.
How to Live Long. See Hall.
Hugo ( Victor) "Ninety-Three? Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 6s.
Toilers of the Sea. Crown 8vo. Illustrated, 6s. ; fancy
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See " History of a Crime."
Hunting, Shooting, and Fishing; A Sporting Miscellany.
Illustrated. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, *js. 6d.
Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer. See
BlCKERSTETH.
ILLUSTRATIONS of China and its People. By J.
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Author's Negatives, with Letterpress Descriptions of the Places and
People represented. Four Volumes imperial 4to, each 3/. y.
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Irish Bar. Comprising Anecdotes, Bon-Mots, and Bio-
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JACQUEMART (A.) History of the Ceramic Art: De-
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Z£ENNEDY'S (Capt. W. R.) Sporting Adventures in tJie
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• (Capt. A. W. M. Clark). See "To the Arctic
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Khedive's Egypt {The); or, The old House- of Bondage under
New Masters. By Edwin de Leon, Ex-Agent and Consul-General
in Egypt. In 1 vol., demy 8vo, cloth extra, Third Edition, i&r.
Kingston ( W. H G.). See " Snow-Shoes."
— Child of the Cavern.
Two Supercargoes.
With Axe and Rifle.
Koldewey (Capt.) The Second North German Polar Expedition
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command of Captain Koldewey. Edited and condensed by H. W.
Bates, Esq. Numerous Woodcuts, Maps, and Chromo-lithographs.
Royal 8vo, cloth extra, 1/. 15J.
List of Publications, 15
T ADY Silver dal J s Sweetheart. 6s. See Black.
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Landseer Gallery {The). Containing thirty-six Autotype Re-
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Annals of a Fortress. Numerous Illustrations and
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The Habitations of Man in all Ages. By E.
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Lectures on Architecture. . By Viollet-le-Duc.
Translated from the French by Benjamin Bucknall, Architect. In
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Mont Blanc: a Treatise on its Geodesical and Geo-
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On Restoration; with a Notice of his Works by Charles
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Lenten Meditations. In Two Series, each complete in itself.
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Life and Letters of the Honourable Charles Sumner {The).
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Lindsay ( W. S.) History of Merchant Shipping and Ancient
, Commerce. Over 150 Illustrations, Maps and Charts. In 4 vols.,
demy 8vo, cloth extra. Vols. I and 2, 21s. ; vols. 3 and 4, 24s. each.
1 6 Sampson, Low, Marston, d* Co. s
Lion Jack: a Story of Perilous Adventures amongst Wild Men
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With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, price dr.
Little King; or, the Taming of a Young Russian Count. By
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Little Mercy ; or, For Better for Worse. By Maude Jeanne
Franc, Author of "Marian," "Vermont Vale," &c, &c Small
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Locker (A.) 27ie Village Surgeon. A Fragment of Auto-
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Frofessor of Modern Languages in the Queen's University in
Ireland. Small post 8vo, cloth, is. 6d.
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cloth, is. 6d.
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BuchheinCs Deutsche Prosa. Two Volumes, sold separately : —
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6. Goethe's Prosa. Containing Selections from the Prose Works of
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Low's Standard Library of Travel and Adventure. Crown 8vo,
bound uniformly in cloth extra, price 7*. 6d.
1. The Great Lone Land. By W. F. Butler, C.B.
2. The Wild North Land. By W. F. Butler, C.B.
3. How I found Livingstone. By H. M. Stanley.
4. The Threshold of the Unknown Region. By C. R. Mark-
ham. (4th Edition, with Additional Chapters, 10s. 6d.)
5. A Whaling: Cruise to Baffin's Bay and the Gulf of Boothia*.
By A. H. Markham.
N
List of Publications. 1 7
Lew's Standard Library of Travel and Adventure, continued: —
6. Campaigning: on the Oxus. By J. A. MacGahan.
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Betty s Brig/it Idea. is.
List of Publications. 27
Stowe {Mrs. Beecher) My Wife and I ; or, Harry Henderson's
History. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6s*
Minister's Wooing, $s.; Copyright Series, 1$. 6d.;cL, 2s.*
Old Town Folk. 6s. : Cheap Edition, 2s. 6d.
Old Town Fireside Stories. Cloth extra, $s. 6d.
Our Folks at Poganuc. 10s. 6d.
We and our Neighbours. 1 vol., small post 8vo, 6s.
Sequel to "My Wife and I."*
Pink and White Tyranny. Small post 8vo, 3*. 6d.\
Cheap Edition, is. 6d. and 2s.
Queer Little People, is. ; cloth, 2s.
Chimney Corner, is. ; cloth, is. 6d.
The Pearl of Orr*s Island. Crown 8vo, 5-$".*
Little Pussey Willow. Fcap., 2s.
Woman in Sacred History. Illustrated with 1 5 Chromo-
lithographs and about 200 pages of Letterpress. Demy 4to, cloth
extra, gilt edges, 25*.
Street Life in London. By J. Thomson, F.R.G.S., and Adolphe
Smith. One volume, 4to, containing 40 Permanent Photographs of
Scenes of London Street Life, with Descriptive Letterpress, 25J.
Student's French Examiner. By F. Julien, Author of " Petites
Lecons de Conversation et de Grammaire." Square crown 8vo, cloth
extra, 2s.
Studies from Nature. 24 Photographs, with Descriptive Letter-
press. By Steven Thompson. Imperial 4to, 35-r.
Sub-Tropical Rambles. See Pike (N).
Sullivan {A.M., M.P.). See " New Ireland."
Summer Holiday in Scandinavia (A). By E. L. L. Arnold.
Crown 8vo, cloth extra, lor. 6d.
Sumner {Hon. Charles). See Life and Letters.
Surgeon's Handbook on the Treatment of Wounded in War. By
Dr. Friedrich Esmarch, Professor of Surgery in the University of
Kiel, and Surgeon-General to the Prussian Army. Translated by
H. H. Clutton, B.A., Cantab, F.R.C.S. Numerous Coloured
Plates and Illustrations, 8vo, strongly bound in flexible leather, 1/. &s.
"TAUCHNITZS English Editions of German Authors.
•*• Each volume, cloth flexible, 2s. ;' or sewed, is. 6d. (Catalogues post
free on application.)
* Stt oho Rose Library.
30 Sampson Low, Marston, 6* Co.'s
Verne* s (Jules) Works, continued: —
The following Cheaper Editions are issued with a few of the
Illustrations, in paper wrapper \ price is.; cloth gilt, 2s. each.
1. Adventures of Three Englishmen and Three Boaaians in
South Africa.
2. Five Weeks in a Balloon.
3. A Floating City.
4. The Blockade Runners.
5. From the Earth to the Moon.
6. Around the Moon.
7. Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. Vol I.
o. — — Vol. II. The two parts in one, cloth, gilt, y. 6d.
9. Around the World in Eighty Days.
10. Dr. Ox's Experiment, and Master Zaoharius.
11. Martin Paz, the Indian Patriot.
12. A Winter amid the Ice.
13. The Fur Country. Vol. I.
14. Vol. II. Both parts in one, cloth gilt, 3*. 6d.
15. Survivors of the " Chancellor." Vol I.
16. Vol. II. Both volumes in one, cloth, gilt edges, 3*. 6d.
Viardot (Levis). See " Painters of all Schools."
TJ/AZZER (Rev. C. H) The Names on the Gates of Pearl,
*V and other Studies. By the Rev. C. H. Waller, M. A. Crown
8vo, cloth extra, dr.
A Grammar and Analytical Vocabulary of the Words in
the Greek Testament. Compiled from Briider's Concordance. For
the use of Divinity Students and Greek Testament Classes. By the
Rev. C. H. Waller, M. A., late Scholar of University College, Oxford,
Tutor of the London College of Divinity, St. John's Hall, Highbury.
Part I., The Grammar. Small post 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. Part II. The
Vocabulary, 2s. 6d.
Adoption and the Covenant. Some Thoughts on
Confirmation. Super-royal i6mo, cloth limp, 2s. 6d.
War in Bulgaria : a Narrative of Personal Experiences. By
Lteutenant-General Valentine Baker Pasha. Together with
a Description and Plan of the Works constructed by him for the Defence
of Constantinople. Also Maps and Plans of Battles. 2 vols., demy
Svo, cloth extra, 2/. 2s.
Warner ( C. Z>.) My Summer in a Garden. Rose Library, is.
.Back4og Studies. Boards, is. 6d.; cloth, 2S.
In the Wilderness. Rose Library, is.
Mummies and Moslems. 8vo, cloth, 12*.
List of Publications. 31
Weaving. See " History and Principles."
Westropp (H. M.) A Manual of Precious Stones and Antique
Gems. By Hodder M. Westropp, Author of "The Traveller's
Art Companion," " Pre- Historic Phases, " &c. Numerous Illustrations.
Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6s.
Whitney {Mrs. A. D. T) The Gayworthys. Cloth, $s. 6d.
Faith Gartney. Small post 8vo, 3*. 6d. Cheaper
Editions, is. 6d. and 2s.
Real Folks. i2mo, crown, $s. 6d.
Hitherto. Small post 8vo, 3$. 6d. and 2s. 6d.
Sights and Insights. 3 vols., crown 8vo, 31J. 6d.
Summer in Leslie GoldthwaitSs Life. Cloth, 3^. 6d.
The Other Girls. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 3s. 6d.
We Girls. Small post 8vo, 3*. 6d. ; Cheap Edition,
is. 6d. and 2s.
Wikoff (H ) The Four Civilizations of the World. An Historical
Retrospect Crown 8vo, cloth, 12s.
Wills, A Few Hints on Proving, without Professional Assistance.
By a Probate Court Official. 5th Edition, revised with Forms
of Wills, Residuary Accounts, &c. Fcap. 8vo, cloth limp, is.
Wilson (H. Schultz). See "Alpine Ascents and Adventures."
With Axe and Rifle on the Western Prairies. By W. H. G.
Kingston. With numerous Illustrations, square crown 8vo, cloth
extra, gilt, *js. 6d.
Woolsey (C. D., LL.D.) Introduction to the Study of Intei'-
national Law ; designed as an Aid in Teaching and in Historical
Studies. Reprinted from the last American Edition, and at a much
lower price. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 8j. 6d.
Words of Wellington: Maxims and Opinions, Sentences and
Reflections of the Great Duke, gathered from his Despatches, Letters,
and Speeches (Bayard Series). 2s. 6d.
World of Comets. By A. Guillemin, Author of "The
Heavens." Translated and edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S.
1 vol., super-royal 8vo, with numerous Woodcut Illustrations, and 3
Chromo-lithographs, cloth extra, 3U. 6d.
" The mass of information collected in the volume is immense, and the treatment
of the subject is so purely popular, that none need be deterred from a perusal of
it." — British Quarterly Review.
Wreck of the Grosvenor. By W. Clark Russell. 6s. Third
and Cheaper Edition.
^
32 Sampson Laiu, Mars fan, 6* Co.'s List of Publications.
VENOPHOWS Anabasis; or, Expedition of Cyrus. A
*^*- Literal Translation, chiefly from the Text of Dindorff, by GEORGE
B. Wheeler. Books I to III. Crown 8vo, boards, 2r.
Books I. to VII. Boards, 3$. 6d.
\70UNG (J. F.) Five Weeks in Greece. Crown 8vo, 10s. 6d.
Hmtfrm.
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, x88, FLEET STREET.
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