Full text of "The Azores : or Western Islands : a political, commercial and geographical account ..."

- PROPERTY OF -

WESTERN ISLANDS.

A POLITICAL, COMMERCIAL AND GEOGEAPHICAL ACCOUNT,

CONTAINING WHAT IS HISTOEICALLY KNOAVN OF THESE ISLANDS,

AND DESCHIPTIVE OF THEIH SCENERY, INHABITANTS, AND

NATURAL productions; HAVING SPECIAL REFERENCE

TO THE EASTERN GROUP CONSISTING OF

ST. MICHAEL AND ST. MAEY,
THE FOEMIGAS AND DOLLABAEET EOCKS ;

INCLUDING SUGGESTIONS TO TRAVELLERS AND INVALIDS WHO MAY
RESORT TO THE ARCHIPELAGO IN SEARCH OF HEALTH.

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.

WALTER FREDERICK WALKER,

Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society; Member of the Society of Arts;

Member of the Society of Biblical Archccology ; Corresponding

Member of the Geographical. Society of Lisbon, ^-c.

LONDON:

TRUBNER & CO., LUDGATE HILL.

1886.

\_A.ll rights reserved.^

LONDON :

PRINTED BY LAKE BROTHERS,

3, WESTMINSTER CHAMBERS S.W.,

AND 7, SUFFOLK LANE, CANNON STREET, E.G.

;rvZ^ ^ O O I ^

■\

^■^

PREFACE.

-»<>•-

Les longs ouvrages me font peur :

Loin d'epuiser une matiere,

On n'en doit prendre que la fleur.

La Fontaine.

This little work, devoid of any scientific or literary merit,
has been penned solely in the hope that it may prove useful
to those contemplating a visit to the Western Archipelago,
and especially St. Michael, the "Insula bella" of the group,
for it is now 44 years since BuUar's " Winter in the Azores,
and Summer at the Baths of the Furnas " ^ — the last work
in our language purely descriptive of these delightful
islands, first appeared, and many changes have taken place
in the intervening time, even in that land of slow progress.

I have endeavoured to adhere, as closely as possible, to
the salutary precept laid down by La Fontaine, and to fill
these pages with such matter only as an intending visitor
might seek to learn. For much of the information herein
given, relating to the early history of the islands, I am
indebted to the laborious compilation ("Archivo dos Ayores'^ )
of the learned Dr. Ernesto do Canto, and to the ably written
" Observa9oes sobre o Povo Michaelense " of Senor Arruda
Furtado. I must also express my deep obligation to my
talented friend, the Baron Das Laranjeiras, for the two

* In 1870 a valuable work on the "Natural History of the Azores,'' by
F. du Cane Godman, Avas published by Van Voorst, and in the May number cf
" Fraser," 1878, a very able and accurate account of the islands appeared from
the pen of R. M. D.

excellent and faithful drawings he kindly made for me,
and which I present exactly as received from him. I have,
lastly, to thank the Proprietors of the " Graphic " for the
illustrations taken from photographs they have permitted
me to reproduce.

I can only add that, independent of the many objects of
interest to the scientific and the curious which these islands
present, they possess many attractions to certain classes of
invalids, from the mildness and salubrity of the climate.
Situated, as they are, in mid-ocean, they enjoy an even
temperature, such as is vainly sought in the constant and
capricious changes of our treacherous northern isle. I have,
in the course of this work, sufficiently indicated the con-
ditions of climate which prevail, and pointed out such as
render the islands unfavourable for the cure of some of the
" ills which human flesh is heir to." Whatever labour
I have bestowed on the following pages, I shall consider
well repaid if their perusal shall diffuse a more prefect
knowledge of the islands among the travelling community,
and at the same time afford a guide to the restoration of
that inestimable blessing — health.

London, 1886.

MAPS, ILLUSTEATIONS, AND
ISLAND MELODIES.

-•o»-

Map of the Azores

Frontispiece

Map of St. Michael's

View of the Breakwater, Ponta Delgada

Tulhas or Toldas de Milho

Matriz Church, Ponta Delgada . .

" Imperio do Espirito Santo," or Whitsuntide Celebrations

Sete Cidades, St, Michael's

Lagoa das Furnas

Gruta do Echo, Furnas

" Boca do Inferno," or Caldeira de Pedro Botelho

St. Michael's Peasant in Carapu9a

Women in " Capote e Capello " . . . , . .

PAGE.

103

115.

153
204
213
226

284
285

ISLAND MELODIES.

CanQao as Furnas

323

Lagrimas

324

Grito do Descrido

326

A Vivandeira

328

Guerrilheiro

330

A Saloia

332

CONTENTS.

-•♦♦-

Introductory Chapter.
Descrrptive and historical — Means of access page 1

Chapter I.

Early voyages to the Islands — Probable and apocryphal accounts — Equestrian
statue of Corvo — Phoenician coins page 10

Chapter II.

"Atlantis" — Solon — Plato— The voyage of St. Brendan, of Clonfert — Maps — •
The " Fortunate Isles " page 17

v_^ Chapter III.
Prince Pedro— Prince Henry — " Capitiio Donatario " page 32

I , Chapter IV.

Santa Maria — The Earl of Cumberland — Christopher Columbus —Natural Features
— Products and manufactures page 36

Chapter V.

The Formigas — Why so called — The DoUabarets — Description of these rocks —
Light-houses page 44

y i^ Chapter VI.

San' Miguel — Traditions concerning its discovery — "Why so called^^olitical

status — Chief town — Destruction of Villa Franca — War of races —Slavery

page 47
Chapter VII. (_^^

Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions — " Sabrina " — Zoology and botany . page 57

Chapter VIII.

Ponta Delgada — History of the town — Description — The harbour and breakwater —
The quarries of Santa Clara — Shipping — Commerce — Imports and exports —
Oranges — History of the fruit- -Its trade — Various fruit — Cereals — Forest
trees — Orange gardens — Tea plant — Pine-apples — Climatic Features, &c.

page 70

Cha-pter IX.

Emigration — Population — Brazilians— The military — The castle — Matriz church —
" Imperio do Espirito Santo" — Nuns, Monks and Priests — College of the
Jesuits — Museum — Educational establishments and libraries — Architecture —
The Hospital — The streets — Caves — Fish — Love of the Portuguese for flowers
— Gardens — Cedar trees — Story of a Moorish shipwreck, &c. . . . page 107

Vlll

Chapter X.

Excursions from Ponta Delgada — Protestant Church — Sete Cidades — Country seats
■ — The rocks and hills and mountain-lakes — Trout — Ladeira do Ledo — Mato do
Maranhao — Capellas — Island dances and poetry — Caldeiras^ da Ribeira
Grande — Mineral waters — Baths, &c page 147

Chapter XI.

The coast — Ladeira da Velha — Historical sketch — Dona Maria and Dom Miguel
— English volunteers — Sir Charles Napier — Admiral Sir George Rose
Sartorius — Proclamations of Dom Pedro — The Duke of "Wellington and
Dom Miguel page 178

Chapter XII.

Achada das Furnas — Valley and village of Furnas — The lake — Grena — Hermits —
The geysers — Analyses of the mineral Avaters — Antelope-horned goats — The
"tank" — The baths — Chalybeate and sulphur springs — Povoa^ao — The in-
habitants — Moorish blood — Adieu to the *' Furnas " page 201

Chapter XIII.

By Lacustrine shores, mossy dells and wooded hills — Rakish Craft — Descents of
the Algerine Moors — Villa Franca— Ancient pottery by modern hands —
Fayal ; why so called — Prisons — Grated aids to conversation — Orange groves
and exports — The " Ilheo " — Crayfish, crabs and starlings — Remarkable
naval engagement — curious stratagem of the Terceirenses — The trade with
the " Indies " — Singular list of merchandise — Sir Richard Grenville, Devereux
Earl of Essex, and Sir Walter Raleigh — The travels of Benedict de Goes — His
wonderful adventures — Reception by the Emperor Akbar — His death — The
preservation of his manuscript page 248

Chapter XIV.

Leaving Villa Franca — Puzzolana — Praia — The dragon tree — Agua de Pao — The
peasantry, their customs and habits — Island villages and sucking pigs —
Sweet potatoes — Dolphins, their commercial value — Description of the country
carts — Playfvil tricks in lent — The " Capello " and " Carapu(,'a " — Native
superstitions — Mode of washing linen — Ceremonial forms of address —
Curiosities of designation — Peculiarities of the natives — "My word is
my bond " — English and Portuguese complexions and ladies' feet — Gold
and silver, and copper currency — Notes — Bills of exchange — Letters of
credit— The "Pillar" dollar— The Moors— Tarik Ben Zuyad— Gibraltar
(Djebel-el-Tarik) or the hill of Tarik— The "Roda"— The language— Arabic
— Persian — Latin — Eulogy of the Portuguese language — Diminutives in names
— The legal tribunals — Cost of living — Land and other taxes — The revenue
— Heights of mountains in San' Miguel above sea level — Maritime positions
of the Azore Islands — Island music page 273

Introductory Chapter.

Descriptive and historical — Meaxs of access.

* * * And Uriel to his charge

Returned on that bright beam, whose point now raised

Bore him slope downwards to the Sun, now fallen

Beneath the Azores ; whether the prime orb,

Incredible how swift, had thither rolled

Diurnal ; or this less volubil Earth,

By shorter flight to the east, had left him there,

Arraying with reflected purple and gold

The clouds that on his western throne attend.

" Paradise Lost,'' Booh IT.

The arcliipelago of the Acores, or as our sailors prefer
to call them, the Western Islands, occupies a longitudinal
but irregular line in mid- Atlantic of some 400 geographical
miles in extent, running W.N.W. to E.S.E., and situated
between latitudes 36° 59' aud 39° 44' north, and longitudes
25° 10' and 31° 7' west of Greenwich.

St. Michael,^ the largest, which lies nearly E.N.E. and
W.S.W., in 37° 46' north latitude, and 25° 12' west longitude,
is distant about 700 miles west of the coast of Portugal,
and 1,147 from the Lizard.

Elores, the most western of these islands, is 1,680 miles
from the shores of Newfoundland. They may, therefore?
be said to belong to Europe, their nearest mainland.

They consist of nine islands, Sao Miguel, Santa Maria,
Terceira, San Jorge, Pico, Fayal, Graciosa, Elores and
Corvo ; also of two groups of rocks known as the Formigas
and Dollabaret, with an aggregate area of about 700 square
miles. According to the last census of 1878, the population
of the Acores amounted altogether to 259,790, made up as
follows : —

* St. Michael's, San' Miguel or Sao Miguel, as it is variously written.

Sao Miguel, 119,933; Santa Maria, 6,338; Terceira,
45,026 ; Graciosa, 8,321 ; San Jorge, 18,272 ; Fayal, 24,962 ;
Pico, 26,396 ; Flores, 9,662 ; and Corvo, 880.

The whole of them, with the exception of Santa Maria,
which appears to lie outside the focus of disturbance, show
evidences of comparatively recent volcanic activity. The
stratified rock identifies them as of the Miocene period, and,
if carefully sought for, there are abundant signs of the effect
of the Glacial epoch in the deep grooves and striations to
be found on several of the islands and more especially at
Terceira. The earliest writers on the Agores concur in
attributing the origin of the name to the presence, when
first discovered, of large numbers of a species of hawk or
buzzard (falco huteo) which the Portuguese called " a9or."

Their inhu/bitants are Portuguese, and they are subject
to the Crown of Portugal, but at the time of their coloniza-
tion, in the middle of the fifteenth century, a great infl.ux
of Flemish blood took place. In 1433 these islands were
bestowed by King Duarte upon his brother Prince Henry
(the Navigator) as a reward for his re-discovery of them. A
sister of this Prince, the Infanta Isabel, having married
Philip III., the Duke of Burgundy and Count of Flanders,
received and sheltered at her Court man}/ members of noble
families who sought her protection from the persecutions
and wars which then devastated the Low Counties.

Many of these refugees found their way to Portugal,
and through his sister's influence. Prince Henry employed
some on board his ships of discovery, others as colonists.
One of these, Jacome de Bruges, a man of considerable
wealth, was appointed in 1450 Captain Donatary of the
island of Terceira, on condition of his colonizing it. Sixteen
years later, at the period of a severe famine in Burgundy,
we find the Duchess Isabel actively engaged in fitting out
an expedition under Jobst Yan Huerta, Lord of Moerkerchen,
numbering over two thousand souls, for the purpose of
colonizing Fayal and Pico, of ^hich he became the first

Captain Donatary. San Jorge, and some of tlie other
islands to the west, were also peopled by him ; so that in
1490 there were several thousand Flemings settled there,
attracted by large grants of land and other advantages.
One of the earliest colonists in Eayal was the celebrated
Martin Behaim, the traveller and geographer. He, with
Diogo Cho, discovered the river Zaire or Congo, remaining
on the west coast of Africa some 18 or 19 months. Return-
ing to Lisbon, he married in 1486 a daughter of Van Huerta,
and took up his residence at Fayal. A pupil of Regiomon-
tano, the discoverer of the metheoroscope and astrolabe,
Behaim was able to impart to the Portuguese navigators
the use of these instruments. He left Fayal in 1490 and
proceeded to his native place, Nuremberg, where he con-
structed his famous terrestrial globe. On setting out for
his island home for the last time, he was captured not far
from Antwerp by an English vessel and taken a prisoner
to London, where he lingered on a bed of sickness for
three months.

This remarkable man, the friend of Columbus, and who
earned from the Emperor Maximilian the title of "the
most widely travelled of all Germans," died in Lisbon in
1506.

Horta, the capital of Fayal, is to this day still named
after its founder Huerta, and a few miles inland is a
beautiful valley known as "' Valle dos Flamengos," or the
valley of the Flemings, where these people for many years
lived entirely apart from the Portuguese settlers, indeed, so
greatly did they outnumber the latter, that the island was
called " Ilha dos Flamengos." A constantly increasing
immigration from Portugal, however, caused them towards
the end of the sixteenth century to lose, not only all trace
of their speech, but even of their ancestral origin. In
Horta itself there is a half ruinous quarter, known as " a
rua velha," or the old street, with a few dilapidated cottages
inhabited by fishermen and their families, who for gene-

B 2

rations have never left tlie spot, and are averse to mix or
intermarry with the other inhabitants of the tov^n. Where
they originally came from none can now tell, but they differ
in physiognomy, dress, manners, and, to some extent, in
language, from the rest of the town-folk. Are these singular
looking islesmenthe degenerate descendants of Yan Huerta's
followers, or must we look to a much earlier date for an
explanation of the presence of this colony in Fayal? In
Oporto and Aveiro, we find small communities of equally
remarkable people, and alone of all the seaward inhabitants
of Portugal using the narrow '^ Biga " and " Saveira " boats
— peaked high in the bows and stern, and painted in brilliant
colours, which so astonish a traveller in northern Portugal.
Mr. Consul Crawford, in his charming book on that country,
thinks these are the remnants of Phoenician immigration.
There is no evidence to show that these people ever
penetrated into these seas, and on none of the A9ores were
any inhabitants found at the time of their discovery by the
Portuguese. It is therefore probable that the ancestors of
the "rua velha" dwellers came from the banks of the Douro,in
the wake of the Portuguese and Flemish settlers, and have
ever since, to a remarkable extent, preserved their in-
dividuality.

Of all nations in Europe, perhaps the Portuguese spring
from the most heterogenous elements. In the array of
ancient hordes who successively overran the country, we
find the Iberians, Celts, Celtiberians, Phoenicians,
Lusitanians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Goths, Visi-
goths, Burgundians, Moors, and, in more recent times, no
small leaven of Hebrew and African blood. Up to 1534, the
Azore Islands were under the jurisdiction of the military
Order of Christ,^ of which Prince Henry was Grand Master,

* Established in 1319 by Dom Diniz, and is the only order in Europe
representing the ancient Templars. "When, at the instigation of the infamous
Philip the Fair, of France, a Papal Bull was issued suppressing the order, King
Diniz, to his lasting honour, refused to carry out the cruel edict in his dominions,

but thej were subsequently incorporalied in the Crown
possessions, and attached to the Bishopric of Funchal in
Madeira, and their inhabitants began then to enjoy more
beneficial influences from the immediate government of the
kings, for prior to this they had been much neglected and
abandoned to the rapacity of successive governors, eight
years sometimes elapsing before a vessel visited them from
the mother country. Well might they have said: —

We dwell apart, afar — •

Within the unmeasured deep, amid its waves —
The most remote of men ; no other race
Hath commerce with us.

At the earnest solicitation of King John III., a separate
Bishopric of the Acores was created in N'ovember, 1534, by
Paul III., the episcopal see being established at Angra do
Heroismo, the capital of Terceira, partly in consequence of
the political importance the island derived in those days
from its almost impregnable position, but more especially
from a singular error in the Papal Bull, as we shall
presently observe. The discovery, too, of India in 1497,
by Yasco da Gama, and of Brazil in 1500, by Pedro Alvares
Cabral, gave Terceira at that time a great commercial
importance, as it became the port of call for all the home-
ward-bound fleets of Spain and Portugal; so that in the
Bay of Angra there were often as many as one hundred
merchantmen at one time re-victualling and repairing after
their lengthy voyages.

Paul III. really meant to establish the episcopal see in
the island of San Miguel, as being the " largest and most
notable of all the islands called A9ores," but by a remarkable

but so far complied with the wishes of the Pontiff as to change the name to that of
the Order of Christ, their vast estates and privileges in Portugal remaining, how-
ever, intact. The Templars are said to have possessed 19,000 manors in different
parts of Europe. In Portugal they had no less than 21 towns and villages, and
454 commanderies or benefices. The Sovereign became the constant Grand Master
of the order, and received therefrom an annual revenue of 40,000 crusados. The
"Commenda de Christo " to this day is the commonest decoration in Portugal.

instance of PapLil fallibility in matters geographical, Angra,
the capital of Terceira, was in the Bull made the capital of
San Miguel, and the fortunate Angrenses have ever since
lived under the spiritual protection and blessing of their
bishop.

The following is an extract from the Bull referred to : "Et
inter alias Insulas eidem ecclesie funchalensi pro ejus
diocesi assignatas Insula Sancti Michaelis nuncupata, in
eodem Mari Occeano sita, ceteris, dos Agores nuncupatis, illi
adjacentibus Insulis Mai or et notabilior, ac mag no
Christianorum populo referta et munita, existeret, et in
illius parte, quoe Angra nuncupatur, inter alias una insignis
parrochialis ecclesia sub invocatione Sancti Salvatoris
dicta, &c., &c.

Translation: " And among other islands subject to the
diocese of Funchal, there was one named the island of San
Miguel, the largest and most notable of all the islands called
the A9ores, inhabited by many Christian people ; and, in the
part of the same island which is called Angra, there was
erected a renowned parochial church, under the invocation
of San Salvador, &c., &c."

It is the duty of the Azorean bishop to occasionally
visit the islands under his jurisdiction. It so happened that
after one of these periodical visitations to Pico, a few years
ago, the pilchard fishery, until then abundant, suddenly
ceased, the fish apparently abandoning the coast ; this was
unfortunately attributed by the simple-minded people to the
presence of the bishop, who was waited upon by a deputation
of fishermen, who civilly, but firmly, requested him to
immediately leave the island : " Ja nao c[ueremos saber de
bispo, o que precisamos sao chicharros ! " " We care nothing
for bishops," said they, " what we want are pilchards ! "

Santa Maria, as well as San Miguel, received their first
inhabitants from the provinces of Estremadura and Algarve,
in the south of Portugal — Terceira by people from the
neighbourhood of Oporto, and it is extraordinary how the

latter have preserved the characteristics at present dis-
tinguishing the inhabitants of Minho and Donro. These
peculiarities have earned for them amongst the other
islanders the sobriquet of "rabos tortos," in allusion to the
singular curl of the tails of their dogs, a savage breed of
Cuba-mastiff stock, and indicative of a stubborn and un-
forgiving spirit.

Fayal, Pico, and San Jorge derived most of their
first inhabitants from Elanders.

Besides these, the donatarios of the different islands
brought Avith them numeroas slaves of either sex, both
Moors and Negroes, and wo find a whole ship-full of Hebrew
families carried over there by an accident in 1501. Fleeing
from the persecutions of the Inquisition in Portugal, these
wretched people, to the number of several hundred, shipped
on board a caravel for Barbary, but being driven by stress of
weather to the Azores, they were at once made prisoners,
and having been bestowed by the King as a present on
Yasqueanes Corte-Eeal, were condemned by him to perpetual
slavery.

The Spanis^ dominion, too, of 60 years, could not but
tend to fuse many of the two nationalities ; thus we have
several distinct races colonizing these islands, now scarcely
distinofuishable in their descendants.

Until 1832, a Captain-General ruled over the destinies of
the A9ores, but on the 4th June of that year this all-powerful
office was abolished by Dom Pedro, and they then became a
province of Portugal, with Angra as the political capital.
On the 28th March, 1836, another decree was passed,
dividing the group into three administrative and fiscal
districts, i.e., the district of Ponta Delgada, consisting of the
islands of San Miguel and Santa Maria, with Ponta Delgada
as capital ; the district of Angra, comprising the islands of
Terceira, Sfio Jorge, and Graciosa, having Angra for capital ;
and the district of Horta — including the islands of Payal,
Pico, Plores, and Corvo, having Horta for their capital;

each, division under the administration of a civil govenioi,
who is responsible to the Lisbon government for his acts,
and generally loses his appointment on a change of ministry.
Each one of the districts, for the purpose of electoral returns
to the Cortes, constitutes a separate centre ; that of Ponta
Delgada, known as the oriental, or eastern, sending four
members ; Angra, as the central, two members ; and Horta,
as the occidental, or western district, also two — in all, eight
members for the entire group. "^

The climate, though humid, is healthy, mild and equable,
the thermometer seldom rising above 75°, or descending
below 50° Fah., or 24° and 10°, C. Sao Miguel is in
point of area, wealth and beauty, the most important of
the archipelago.

Before proceeding to a brief description of that island
and its dependent Santa Maria, we will first observe
that the Agores are reached from London (calling at
Dartmouth) by the excellent steamers of the London and
West India Line, sailing twice a month, and calling at
St. Michael to drop passengers, provided three berths at
£10 each be engaged ; they also touch at the island
homeward bound from the West Indies, for cargo and
passengers. Agents in London — Messrs. Scrutton and Co.,
9, Gracechurch Street, E.C. Also during the months of
November to March, by British steamers engaged in the
orange trade, sent from England direct — generally from
London, Hull or Cardiff — and all the year round by a
bi-monthly service of Portuguese mail steamers from Lisbon,
owned by the Empreza Insulana de ]SJ'aviga9rio, consisting at
present of the " Eunchal " (s.s.), sailing from the Tagus at
10 a.m. on the 5th of every month, calling at Sao Miguel,
arriving on the 8th or 9th; Terceira, 10th; Graciosa, 11th;
Slo Jorge, 11th ; Pico, 11th ; Fayal, night of the 11th, in

* AH Spanish and Portuguese colonies or islands, however distant, are divided
into provinceSj as if they formed contiguous portions of the continent.

winter iiiorning' of the 12tli, and Flore s, IStli ; returning
via the same islands excepting Pico.

The second steamer, the "A9or," leaves Lisbon at
10 a.m. on the 20th of each month, calling lirst at Madeira,
where she arrives on the 22nd of each month, then at
Santa Maria, 25th; Sao Miguel, 26th; Terceira, 27th, and
Fayal, 28th ; returning via same islands.

The accommodation on board these steamers, although
heavily subsidized by the Portuguese government, naturally
contrasts but indifferently with that experienced in the
Royal Mail Packets from Southampton, and the cuisine is
entirely Portuguese ; the shorter voyages, however, to and
from Lisbon, and the few days rest in the Lusitanian capital,
are important considerations to travellers suffering from
mal cle mer ; but to those who like the sea, a passage direct
would be found much less irksome.

PAssENGEii Fares.

Lisbon to Madeira

„ Sao Miguel, or Santa Maria

„ Terceira

„ Graciosa, S. Jorge, Fayal or

Pico
J, Flores

Agent in Lisbon — Snr. G. S. Arnaud, Caes Sodre.

The fruit steamers from England direct take passengers
to St. Michael or Fayal, for £10 each, everything included.

Agents in London — Messrs. CoUings and Co., 16, Philpot
Lane, Eastcheap ; Messrs. Tatham and Co., 9, Gracechurch
Street. f

£ s.

27S000 —

30$000 —

6 13

31$000

6 17

32$000 —

7 2

34§000 —

7 11

Chapter I.

Early Voyages to the Islands — Probable and Apocryphal Accounts —
Equestrian Statue of Corvo — Phcenician Coins.

Our onward prows the murmuring surges lave ;
And now our vessels plough the gentle wave,
Where the blue islands, named of Hesper old.
Their fruitful bosoms to the deep unfold.

Mickys " Cainoens.^^

About the fourth decade of the 12th century, a series of
remarkable voyages were undertaken by a celebrated Arabian
navigator, Sherif Mohammed al Edrisi, a native of Tetuan,
who, besides discovering the Cape de Yerd, Canary and
Madeira islands, would seem to have penetrated as far as
the A9ores. He is said to have constructed, at the request
of Koger II., King of Sicily, a silver globe, weighing 400
Greek pounds, on which the lands he visited, and all the
then known parts of the world, were carefully laid down,
but unfortunately, this most interesting work soon after-
wards disappeared, the descriptive manuscript written in
the year 1153, in Arabic, alone remaining; this was trans-
lated into Latin in 1691, by Hartmann, and in it we find,
after a description of the " Insulse Canarides," mention
made of nine other islands to the north of these, and in the
western ocean, one of which he calls "Raka,"^ i.e., of birds,
for it abounded in a species of eagle, or raptorial bird. He
describes the islands as covered with forest, and the co-
incidence of nine of these to the north of the Canaries, and
the existence at that time in large numbers of the very bird

* Iluic insula) proxima est insula Kaka, i.e., volucrum. Fcruut in hac insula
esse genus auium aquilis rubris similium unguibusque instructarum, quK belluas
marinas venantur ct comcdunt. Ab hac insula eas nunquam recedere affirmant.

SMTI LIBRARY

which subsequently gave its name to the group, goes far
to confirm the opinion of the learned Hartmann that the
islands in question were really what he calls the Occipitres,
or A9ores, and looking at the distances which separate them,
not only from each other, but from the nearest mainland,
we cannot but be struck at the hardihood of these early
navigators.

Either in translating from the Arabic, or from original
discrepancies in the chapter devoted to the " Insulse Maris
Atlantici," it is much to be regretted that the various groups
treated of, the Cape de Yerd, Canaries (which Edrisi calls by
their real name of Insula Chaledat or Fortunate Islands),
Madeira, and A9ores, seem inextricably mixed up ; thus, in
the same paragraph relating to the latter, the island of
Sahelia"^ is mentioned as once possessing "three cities of
equal size, much peopled, the inhabitants of which were
now all slain in civil wars." Ships came from distant parts
to these cities for the purchase of ambergris, purple dyes,
and stones of divers colours ; no doubt one of the Canary
group is here meant, for we know that they were peopled,
and that the Syrians, Carthagenians and Romans, are said
to have sent their ships to trade with the inhabitants of
these islands, a handsome copper coloured race of Asiatic
type, who in more recent times became troglodytes, living
in grottoes and caves ; the mention, therefore, of several
populous cities at the time of Edrisi's visit is interesting.

Petrarch, too, thus writes to the Genoese in 1351 : —
" You, whose shij)s have free course in the ocean and in the
Euxine, and before whom peoples and monarchs tremble.
From Tapobrana to the Fortunate Isles and Thule, to the
extreme confines of the northern and western world, your

* Hinc veliuntur ad insulam Saheliam. Longitudo, eius 15, latitudo 10
dierum spatium comprehendit. Olim in hac insula tres urbes extabant parva;
quidem, sed populosa;, quarum incola; autem bellis intestinis fere onanes pcricrunt.
Ad has usque perueniebant nauta:, atque emcbant ambarum et lapides diversi
coloris.

pilots safely guide their crafts," showing that the Genoese
in those days already traded with the Canaries. Their visits
must have commenced between 1291 and the date of
Petrarch's address, for the Genoese attribute the discovery
of the Fortunate Isles to an expedition under Tedisio D'Oria,
which sailed in that year into the Atlantic, but never
returned.

On none of the A9ores have traces ever been found of the
presence of man, anterior to the arrival of the Portuguese,
although several circumstantial, but purely apocryphal
stories, were rife in the 16th century, respecting an eques-
trian statue which stood on a promontory on the north-west
extremity of Corvo, bearing on its pedestal a cuniform in-
scription, which, however, no native philologist, or Cham-
poUion, had been able to decipher. The historian, Damiao
de Goes, writino- in the first half of the 16th centurv,
mentions this statue in full belief of its existence. In
1800 the Governor of Terceira, Count de Almada, received
instructions from his Government to cause minute search to
be made for any traces of it, but without result. Seventeen
years later we find Antonio Jose Camoes writing : " Truthful
tradition asserts that on a formidable rock to the north-west
of the island the perfect figure of a man on horseback could
be discerned, with one arm extended as if pointing towards
the west," but after a lapse of several years. Brigadier Gene-
ral Noronha, who spent some time in the island investigating
the matter, and the traditions connected with it, came to the
conclusion that the report originated " in some optical il-
lusion." I am inclined to believe, however, that its true
solution is to be found in the pages of Edrisi, for in
his account of the Canary Islands the following passage
occurs :

"There had been erected on each of these islands a
statue hewn out of stone, and a hundred cubits high ; over
each statue was set a brazen image beckoning towards the
west with its hand ; there were six of these statues.'

Ibn al Vardi also says : '' Dans cliaqiie ile il y a nne statue
haute de cent coudees, qui est comme un fanal, pour diriger
les vaisseaux et leur apprendre qu'il n'y a point de route
au-dela." It is clear, therefore, that Corvo, the smallest
and most northern island of this archipelago, must in remote
times either have been inhabited by the same race who
peopled the Canaries — a very unlikely hypothesis — or that
the fable of the equestrian statue must have been coined
from the above passage of Edrisi, of which there appears
more than presumptive evidence. It is interesting to re-
member that these statues in the Fortunate Islands were
regarded in those early days as the work of Dzou-el-Qarnayn,
the Hercules of the Arabs.

Could these romancers have heard, as Plato narrates,
that the great statue of Poseidon in Atlantis was surrounded
with the lesser statues of one hundred Nereids? Or was the
idea associated with the Phoenician Astarte, which, at the
prow of their boats, always pointed the way with an ex-
tended arm?

Damiao de Goes was in the service of King Dom Manoel
from 1510 to 1521; he wrote the famous "Chronica do
Principe D. Joao III.," and in it mentions the statue as
follows : — "' In the island of Corvo (discovered subsequent to
1460), or as it is sometimes called Island of Marco, as it is
used by sailors to demark any of the others when making
them, there was found on the top of a hill on the north-west
side, a stone statue placed on a ledge, and consisting of a
man astride on the bare back of a horse, the man being
dressed, and having over him a cloak (" capa com bedem "^)
but bareheaded, with one hand on the mane of the horse,
and the right arm extended, the fingers of the hand folded,
with the exception of the index finger, which pointed to the
west. Dom Manoel ordered a drawing of this statue, which

* " Bedem " is a Moorish word, and signifies a peculiar-shaped cloak which
was worn by the Moors in wet weather.

rose in a solid block from the ledge, to be forwarded to him,
after seeing which he sent an ingenious man, a native of
Oporto who had travelled much in France and Italy, to the
island of Corvo in order to remove this antiquity, who, when
he returned, told the king that the statne had been de-
stroyed by a storm the previous year. But the truth was
that they broke it through ill usage, bringing portions of it.
consisting of the head of the man, and the right arm with
the hand, also a leg and the head of the horse, all of which
remained for some days in the wardrobe of the king, but
what was afterwards done with these things, or where they
were put, I could not discover. These islands (Corvo and
Flores) were bequeathed to Pero da Fonseca, who visited them
in 1529, and was told by the inhabitants that on the rock
below where the statue rested, some letters were carved.
Owing to the place being dangerous and difficult of access, he
caused some men to descend by means of ropes, who took
impressions of the letters (which time had not altogether
effaced) in wax, which he took for that purpose ; but the
impressions were much obliterated when they reached Lisbon,
being almost without form ; for this reason, and probably
because those present had only a knowledge of Latin, no
one could tell what the letters meant."

Although this circumstantial account is given by a
contemporary historian of these events, in whose veracity
implicit confidence is reposed, we must remember that on
this particular subject he simply recorded hearsay reports,
There are three points in his account, which in my opinion
are fatal to the supposed existence of the Corvo statue.
1st. The situation on a ledge of rock so inaccessible, that in
order to enable him to take an impression of the inscription
at its base, Pero da Ponseca " caused some men to descend
by means of ropes." 2nd. The fact of a statue of such
conspicuous dimensions being cut out of the solid rock, horse
and man in one piece, and placed in such a difficult locality.
3rd. The "Capa com bedem," with which the horseman was

covered, is a proof that none but Arabs, Portuguese, or
Spaniards, could possibly have erected such a statue, even
admitting its impossible position, for the Moorish cloak was
of pecular shape, and only worn in the Peninsula, and the
fact of its special mention identifies the fable as originating
in either a Spanish or Portuguese source, as the Moors,
supposing them to have visited Corvo, were very unlikely to
have selected such a means, forbidden by their religion, of
commemorating their presence there. Mr. Ignatius Donnelly,
who has spent much time and labour in proving that the
Azores, with some other Atlantic islands, are but the topmost
peaks of the lost Atlantis, asks, " May not the so-called
Phoenician coins found on Corvo, one of the Azores, be of
Atlantean origin? Is it probable that that great race,
pre-eminent as a founder of colonies, could have visited
those islands within the historical period, and have left
them unpeopled, as they were when discovered by the
Portuguese ? "

The assertion that Phoenician coins were discovered in
the island of Corvo in ISTovember, 1749, was made by
Humboldt in his " Examen Critique," entirely upon the
authority of Snr. Podolyn, but uncorroborated by any other
testimony. The story, as handed to us by Humboldt,
relates that, after a violent storm, the eddying waves
uncovered a strongly constructed and dome-shaped dolmen
of stone, under which was found an earthen jar containing
a number of gold and copper coins, which were taken to a
convent, where the major portion were distributed among
the curious, some (to the number of nine) being sent
to Padre Flores of Madrid, who gave them to Snr.
Podolyn.

These coins, according to the illustrations published in
the "Memorials of the Society of Gothenberg," No. 1,
page 106, bore either the head of a horse, or its entire figure,
or a palm, some being considered Carthagenian, others
Cyrenean. There is not the slightest corroborative tradition.

however, amongst tlie inhabitants of Corvo, of the finding of
these coins, and doubts are cast upon the veracity of the
account as related to Humboldt. In none of the other
islands have any such coins or ancient relics ever been
found, and, like the famous story of the Corvo statue, we
must relegate this numismatic " find " to the region of
myth.

Chapter II.

" Atlantis " — Solon — Plato — The Voyage of St. Brendan of Clonfert —

Maps — The " Fortvnate Isles."

The fair breeze blew, the white foam flew ;

The furrow follow' d free !

We were the first that ever burst

Into that silent sea.

" The Anciejit Mariner.''''

For two centuries, following these surprising voyages of
Edrisi, we liear nothing further of the A9ores until we find
one of the group, which from its westerly position and shape
must be meant for Corvo, noted on a Spanish map, dated
1346, in the National Library in Paris.

In 1351, their geographical position is accurately marked
in the famous Portulano Mediceo map, of the Laurentian
Library, in Florence, published in that year by some unknown
Genoese, who must either himself have sailed among them
or heard of their existence from some countryman, probably
the pilot Niccoloso di Eecco, who, in 134], guided the
expedition sent out by Affonso IV., of Portugal, under
Angiolino del Tegghio, for the discovery of the Fortunate
(or Canary) Islands, where E,ecc6 had previously been, and
from whence he may, in former voyages, have visited
Madeira and the more western group. However this may
be, the first really undisputed identity of the Acores is to be
fomid in the hydrographical chart, bearing date 1385, in
the Eoyal Archives in Florence, in which the islands of San
Miguel and Santa Maria are laid down, the names given them
being unfortunately illegible. Terceira is named ''Insula
de Brazi," from the Brazil wood with which it was supposed
to abound, but which we shall presently see was an error ;

while San Jorge, Pico, and Fayal, are named " Insule
de Ventura " and " Columbis," a notable circumstance,
implying', from tlie one name " Columbis'' given to the two
latter, that they were at that time joined, and formed one
single island. This remarkable chart bears the following
epigraph : —

" Guil {i.e.) Imus Solerij civjs Maioricarum " {i.e., native
of Soller, in Majorca) "me fecit anno a Nat Domini,
MCCCLXXXV."

It is much to be regretted that no descriptive account of
the voyage which this map evidently commemorated, or of
the persons engaged in it, has been preserved to us. In it
no mention is made of the extreme western group, consisting
of Flores and Corvo, and it is probable that their re-discovery
was due to the brothers Diogo and Joao de Teive, who,
in 1452, twenty years after the first discovery of Santa
Maria, by Cabral, came upon them under the guidance of
the pilot Pedro Yelasco, a native of Paulos de Moguer, who
had probably seen the latter island mentioned in the Spanish
map of 1346.

We next observe all the islands reproduced on Andrea
Bianco^s map, dated 1436, belonging to the library of St.
Mark.

For a long period, and more especially since the eleventh
century, there had existed in Europe vague rumours of
undiscovered and unknown lands in the Atlantic ocean.
Among the Irish peasantry of Mayo especially, there had
lono- been traditions of a wonderful land in the far west.
The successful discovery of the Canaries, Madeiras, and
subsequently of the A9ores, together with the gradual spread
of letters amongst religious orders, had revived these old
traditions, and pictured them as actual realities.

Lisbon and Sagres had, since the days of Dom Henrique,
become the rendezvous of adventurous spirits^ whose earth-
hunger had been whetted by the powerful donataryships
bestowed upon the fortunate discoverers and settlers of these

newly-found islands, and to sncli a pitcli had this desire
been wrought that the dangers of the " mare tenebrarum '*
had lost their terrors, and each fresh expedition was hailed
as a " navis stultifera," to bear them away to some new
land of promise.

Let us for a moment trace the grounds upon which these
rumours were based.

The earliest reference made to the existence of a largfe
island in the Atlantic is probably to be found in the frag-
ment of Theopompus' works composed in the 4th century
before Christ, in which the continents we now call Europe,
Asia, and Africa, are mentioned as being surrounded by the
sea ; but that beyond them existed an island of immense
extent, containing great cities, peopled by civilised and
orderly nations. Later, occurs Plato's almost identical
account of " Atlantis " in his Timaeus and Critias, and later
still, Pliny and Diodorus mention the existence of a vast
continent to the west of Africa.

Solon, the Grecian philosopher, poet, and Athenian
lawgiver, lived 600 years b.c. ; he visited Egypt, and appears
to have received from the Egyptian priests what purported
to be an account of the Island of Atlantis, which was
transmitted to his descendant, Plato, and by him preserved
in his " Dialogues " written 400 years b.c.

The following are short extracts of this old-world story: —
" Egyptian priest to Solon : ' Many great and wonderful
deeds are recorded of your state in our histories, but one of
them exceeds all the rest in greatness and valor ; for these
histories tell of a mighty power which was aggressing
wantonly against the whole of Europe and Asia, and to which
your city (Athens) put an end. This power came forth out
of the Atlantic ocea^n, for in those days the Atlantic was
navigable ; and there was an island situated in front of the
Straits which you call the columns of Heracles ; the island
was larger than Libya and Asia put together, and was the
way to other islands, and from the islands you might pass

c 2

througli the whole of the opposite continent which
surrounded the true ocean ; for this sea, which is within the
Straits of Heracles, is only a harbour, having a narrow
entrance, but that other is a real sea, and the surrounding
land may be most truly called a continent. Now, in the
island of Atlantis, there was a great and wonderful empire,
which had rule over the whole island and several others, as
well as over parts of the continent, and besides these, they
subjected the parts of Libya within the columns of Heracles
as far as Egypt, and of Europe as far as Tyrrhenia. The
vast power thus gathered into one endeavoured to subdue
at one blow our country and yours, and the whole of the
land which was within the Straits ; and then, Solon, your
country shone forth, in the excellence of her virtue and
strength, among all mankind ; for she wa s the first in
courage and military skill, and was the leader of the
Hellenes. And when the rest fell ofP from her, being com-
pelled to stand alone, after having undergone the very
extremity of danger, she defeated and triumphed over the
invaders, and preserved from slavery those who were not
yet subjected, and freely liberated all the others who dwell
within the limits of Heracles. But afterwards there
occurred violent earthquakes and floods, and in a single day
and night of rain all your warlike men in a body sunk into
the earth, and the island of Atlantis in like manner dis-
appeared, and was sunk beneath the sea. And this is the
reason why the sea in those parts is impassable aud
impenetrable, because there is such a quantity of shallow
mud in the way, and this was caused by the subsidence of
the island."^

The first king of Atlantis, Plato continued, was Poseidon,
who begat ten children ; he divided the island into ten

* There are numerous instances recorded of vessels making way with difficulty
through floating masses of pumice in the Azorean seas after a serious volcanic or
submarine eruption in the neighbourhood.

portions, giving to each of his sons a tenth part ; to Atlas,
the eldest, fell the largest and fairest portion, and he was
made king over his brothers, who ranked as princes.

From him the whole island and surrounding ocean re-
ceived the name of Atlantis. These ten kings possessed
10,000 chariots. The Atlanteans were apparently sun-
worshippers, and erected to the honor of their deity mag-
nificent temples, wherein and about which were placed
numerous statues and ornaments of gold, the island abound-
ing in this, silver and other metals. There was abundance
of timber for building purposes, also fruit trees and cereals
of various kinds, which were systematically cultivated.
Cattle, horses and other domestic as well as wild animals
abounded. The people, who had attained to a high degree of
civilization, employed themselves in building vast temples
dedicated to their deities, palaces for their princes, harbours
and docks for their ships, their ports being frequented by
foreign vessels coming there to trade ; their own fleet num-
bered 1,200 ships. They had numerous fountains, both of
cold and hot springs, which they largely used, not only for
themselves, but for bathing their horses, of which they took
extreme care.

The great plain, in the centre of which their princix)al
city was situated, was entirely surrounded by a protecting
moat 1,150 miles in length, 607 feet in breadth, and 100
feet in depth. Many other remarkable things are told us
by Plato of this extraordinary island and its inhabitants, but
those of my readers who are interested in the subject cannot
do better than refer to the able and fascinating work on
"Atlantis: the Antediluvian World," by Ignatius Donnelly,
where the question is exhaustively handled.

When the Moors, during the eighth century, penetrated
into Portugal, they were not slow to discover the advantageous
position of Lisbon, as a base for their power and commerce.
They accordingly seized the hilly country on the northern
bank of the Tagus, and continued to hold it until expelled

ill the middle of the 12th century by the first king of
Portugal, Affonso Henriquez, aided by some 13,000 crusaders,
mostly English, who, on their way to Palestine, had acci-
dentally put into Oporto, and afterwards^ on the invitation
of the King, into Lisbon.

The city, at that time, contained, according to Moorish
accounts^ from four to five hundred thousand inhabitants,
and had, at various periods, sent out expeditions into the
Atlantic, with the object either of plunder or discovery.
The record of one of these expeditions has been preserved
by Edrisi, and is sufficiently curious for insertion here.
" Eight Arab sailors put out to sea in a large caravel, with
supplies for a lengthened voyage ; after eleven days sail
with a fair easterly wind, they entered what they describe
as a feculent sea, where fetid gases sickened them, and
shoals of pointed rocks so terrified them, as to cause them to
turn the ship's head to the south, in which direction they
sailed for twelve days, at the end of which they reached the
island of El-Ghanam, so named from the numerous herds
of small cattle which quietly grazed, unattended by
shepherds ; some of these they killed, but so bitter was their
fiesh"^ that they were unable to eat it, and contented them-
selves by carrying off their skins. Having replenished their
supplies of water, which the}" drew from a spring shaded by
wild fig trees, they re-embarked, and continued in a southerly
direction for twelve days more, until they arrived off an
island which appeared inhabited and cultivated ; as they
approached, they found themselves surrounded by boats,
and were made prisoners and conducted to a town built on
the shore. Having landed, they were at once beset by
numerous people of a swarthy complexion, tall stature and
long, straight hair ; the women being specially handsome.

* M. Berthelot, the accomplished historian of the Canary Islands, make:*
mention of a plant growing there (le coqueret) on -vvhich the cattle browse at
certain seasons, and which imparts a hitter flavour to their flesh.

On the third day an interpreter, speaking Arabic, entered
the dwellinj^ where they had been lodged, and questioned
them respecting their voyage, their country, and the motives
of their coming there. Two days later they were conducted
to the chief of the island, who repeated the same questions,
and promising them his protection, dismissed them to their
lodging. Here they remained a few days longer, until the
wind set in from the west; they were then blindfolded and
made to re-embark. After a voyage, which they estimated
at three days and three nights, they were landed and left on
a shore, still blindfolded, and with their arms bound behind ;
profound silence at first reigned about them, but presently,
hearing human voices, they uttered loud cries, and thus
attracted the attention of certain Berber people. From these,
they learnt that they were two months journey from Lisbon,
which they eventually reached after much distress and no
little disappointment."

Who can, from this account, doubt that this Arab crew,
after a favorable voyage of eleven days to the west of
Lisbon, reached the Formigas, and came across evidence of
what, to them, must have been an incomprehensible and
alarming phenomenon, in the shape of some serious volcanic
eruption in their neighbourhood, which drove them south-
ward, until they came to one of the inhabited Canary
Islands, from whence they were conveyed to the opposite
African coast '?

Very remarkable is the account preserved in the Irish
annals of the voyage of St. Brendan of Clonfert, who, in
A.D. 54o, sailed from the shores of Kerri in a well-appointed
vessel, accompanied by a few adventurous companions, in
search of the " Promised Land."

Keeping towards the south-west, after many weeks' voy-
age he eventually reached a coast which he proceeded to
examine, finding some distance inland a large river flowing
from east to west, thought by some writers to have been the
Ohio ; when returning to Ireland, after an absence of seven

years, he appears to have discovered and hmded upon one
of the Atlantic Islands, supposed to have been Madeira,
from its well-known liability to become obscured from view
by those approaching it from the sea, by haze. This happy
land was said to tantalize the faithful in search of it, by
appearing like a Will-o'-the-wisp, and as suddenly disap-
pearing. Many were the vain endeavours made to find this
supposed abode of the Saints.

In a chart of the brothers Pizzigani, published in 1367,
we find the Madeira group inserted as the Fortunate Isles of
Saint Brendan ; in another, bearing date 1424, in the public
library at Weimar, and in Beccaria's map of 1435.

Christopher Columbus, in his journal, mentions that the
inhabitants of Ferro, as well as those of Gomera, assured
him that they had seen this island every year appearing
towards the west ; also that he had met people in Lisbon in
the year 1484, who had come from Madeira to solicit a
caravel from the king to go in search of this mysterious isle,
which every year was seen by them, always in the same
direction.

Martin Behaim, also, in his famous Nuremberg globe of
1492, places a large island near the equator, where, he says,
St. Brendan spent part of his life, witnessing many mar-
vellous things.

In Cardinal Zurla's map of the middle of the fifteenth
century, we find St. Brendan pictured as stepping on
to the island of Madeira, which the Genoese of that day
believed to be the island that the Saint discovered. So firm
was the belief in this mysterious island, that when Dom
Emanuel' renounced his rights to the Canaries, on the 4th
June, 1519, he expressly included in this important treaty
with Spain the " Hidden or Undiscovered Island," as it was
then called.

In 1526, the two Spaniards, Fernando de Troy a and
Fernando Alvarez, set out in search of it from the Canary
Islands. A similar expedition, under Fernando de Villalobos,

the Governor of Palma, started on the same errand some
years later. Still nndiscoiiraged, the Spaniards despatched
another exploring fleet, under their, at that time, most
expert pilot, Gaspar Perez de Acosta, but always with the
same result. The hope, however, of ultimate success was
kept alive by the gulf stream, aided by the north-westerly
gales, invariably bringing to the shores of the Canary and
other Atlantic Islands, specimens of strange trees and fruits.
The last of those Canarian expeditions we find under-
taken under Gaspar Domingues, as late as 1721, when the
search from this quarter was finally abandoned, and not
without reason, for closer observations proved that this
mysterious land was but the reflex or mirage of the Island
of Palma. Meanwhile the Portuguese were not idle ; certain
imscrupulous monks and others, having from time to time
deposed upon oath that they had actually landed upon the
Islands of St. Brendan and Sete Cidades, the latter being
the name they had bestowed upon Plato's Atlantis, various
secret expeditions were ever and anon sent out from the
Tagus and A9ores. This passion for discovery extended
in time to England, for we find John Cabot frequently
sailing into the Atlantic from Bristol, in hopes of finding in
the distant west the imaginary Isle of Brazil, the name
being a Portuguese corruption of the Genoese Braxe,
" woody," applied by the latter to some island they had
accidently visited in the Atlantic, and which is ascribed to
either Madeira or Terceira. The imaginative Irish fancied
they could sometimes see this island, which they identified
as that of St. Brendan, from the west of Ireland, and it
became so far a reality in men's minds as to find a place
in all the old maps, from that of Andrea Bianco's in 1436
to Purdy's more modern publication. Amongst the Portu-
guese themselves, the Island of Terceira had long become
identified with the Ilha do Brazil,"^ from a supposition that

* No Brazil wood has ever been found growing in Terceira, but the sanguinho
{rhamnus latifolias), a tree with a reddish wood, is common in all the islands,

' OF -

its forests produced the much valued dye-wood of that
name. Terceira, in the beginning of the 17th century, had
become the centre of cultivation of the satis tinctoria, or
woad plant, from which, before the days of indigo, a blue
dye was made in large quantities, and cargoes of it shipped
in a granulated form to England and other places. Could
Chaucer be referring to this when he wrote : —

Him nedeth not his colour for to dien
With ' brazil,' ne with grain of Portingale.

Foiled in their frequent endeavours to find this mythical
land, the Portuguese seem to have derived consolation in
bestowing and perpetuating its name upon that splendid
discovery of theirs in South America, which has since
grown to such vast importance. We find the Captain
Donatary of Terceira, Fernam Dulmo, personally petitioning
the King in 1486 to be allowed at his own cost to fit out an
expedition, and to be given the captaincy of any new lands
he might discover. The governor of Sao Miguel, Louren9o
Vaz Coutinho, complying with instructions sent him from
Lisbon in July 1591, dispatched a vessel in search of the
new island supposed to lie between Terceira and Fayal.
Two years later, news having again reached Sao Miguel that
the island had been really sighted by some boatmen
80 leagues to the south of Fayal, a small Scotch vessel,
which happened to be in the roads of Ponta Delgada with
wheat, was immediately sent in quest of it, shortly afterwards
to return unsuccessful.

In 1649 we also find Frei Joao da Trindade, of the order
of S. Francis, setting out under the auspices of the Crown
from Lisbon, in search of this terra incognita', but his
expedition met with the same ill success, and his death
shortly afterwards put a stop to further exertion on his part.
In a curious manuscript which he left he mentions that in
the islands of the A9ores there were very ancient traditions
of the existence in their vicinity of other islands still to be
discovered and peopled.

The last of these expeditions from the A cores took place
in 1770, under the direction of D. Antao d'Almada, the
first captain-general of the A9ores, appointed by the
Marquis of Pombal. After a fruitless wandering to the
north of Terceira, the too sanguine discoverers returned to
meet with the jeers of the people of Angra. To such an
extent was their sarcasm expended upon the authors of this
luckless expedition, that the governor found himself obliged
to issue a decree to the effect that no one was hereafter even
to refer to the supposed island, under heavy pains and
penalties — and thus ceased their futile attempt. The spirit
of fiction had long held sway in Portugal, as in other lands,
and to that fascinating writer, Bernardino de Senna Preitas,
we owe the discovery of some curious inedited manuscrij)ts,
detailing with considerable circumstance the landing on
some of these suppositious and inhabited islands of some
Genoese sailors, and subsequently some Portuguese priests.
The most remarkable account is in a mutilated manuscript
of the seventeenth century, by an unknown Azorean,
purporting to be the faithful copy of an entry in the
" Book of Antiquities of Barcelona in the year 1444," made
by some G-enoese who put into that port, bearing on
one side the chart of a large island, having many high
mountains and numerous undulations. It was given a
circumference of 300 leagues, and appeared to be cut almost
in half by a large river rising in the mountains. On its
northern side was a small islet densely wooded, and on the
western side, distant about three leagues, was another.
The larger island was said to be seen in clear weather, not
only from Madeira, but from the rest of the A9ores.

At the back of this chart occurs the following deposition
by the Genoese : — " In the year 1444, there arrived in the
port of this city of Barcelona a Genoese merchantman,
which, having been thrown out of her course and almost
lost in consequence of a violent tempest, made the Cape of
Finis terre, and was then blown out to sea, subsequently

sighting land which was not on the ships' charts, and for
which they at once made. Casting anchor in a port where
they landed, they found people who spoke the Portuguese
language, telling them that they belonged to the Portuguese
nation, but that when Spain (then under Roderick, the last
Gothic kingj was overrun by the Moors, their forefathers,
rather than submit to the tyranny of the infidels, had
determined to venture on the ocean with their families
and chattels, in some vessels which were then in the river
Douro, and go in quest of some island which they had heard
existed there, and where they might live undisturbed ; that,
in course of time, they had reached this island, where their
ancestors had erected five cities on the sea-shore ; that in
each city there was a bishop, and amongst these there
were two archbishops ; that in the interior there were three
hundred towns, with numerous inhabitants ; that the whole
island was very fertile, and abundant in gold, silver and
other metals, and produced in large quantities everything
necessary for the support of man ; that their system of
government was to elect one of the above-mentioned bishops
as governor of the country, whose powers were those of a
king ; that they had two hundred men trained as com-
batants; that the people were law-abiding, and went in fear
of God.

"Wine, which was very plentiful, was sold by pint
measures, and bread by weight, in the markets. The arms
of the governing bishops consisted of a dragon on a flag
surmounted by a cross, the dragon being encircled by a
cobra ; on the flag was also the figure of a saint on an ass,
typical of the entry of Christ into Jerusalem, all painted
on a blue ground, surrounded by fifteen castles in gold,
painted on a crimson ground. Murderers were invariably
put to death, lesser criminals being punished by trans-
portation to certain settlements on the coast.

" The inhabitants possess a mine of salt, which they use.
Their horses are the best in the world, and all provisions

extremely wholesome ; of these they have great abundance,
and especially of vines."

Such is the account which we find repeated in the pages
of Faria e Sousa, Frei Manoel dos Anjos, Pedro Medina,
Bernardo de Brito, Joao Botero, Antonio Galvao, and other
early Portuguese writers.

In the public library in Lisbon is to be seen a lengthy
manuscript dated the 29th May, 1669, and signed by two
Friars (Antonio de Jesus, and Francisco dos Martires) giving
a most detailed and circumstantial account of a visit they
made to this island in July, 1668, but as the whole narrative
bears the imprint of fiction, and was doubtless based upon
the above similarly apocryphal account of the Genoese, I
abstain from reproducing it.

Such minute accounts, however false, could not but secure
in those days many believers in the existence of Atlantis, or
Sete Cidades — more especially so, as it figured on nearly all
the early maps. We thus find it called Antilia on a map in
the Weimar library, dated 1424 ; in Beccaria's map of 1435,
in the library of Parma ; also on that of Andrea Bianco, of
1436 ; similarly on the map of the Genoese Bartholomeo
Pareto, of 1455 ; on that of Andrea Benincasa of 1476, in the
library of Geneva ; and, lastly, on the famous globe of
Martin Behaim, accompanied by the following note : —
" When we go back to the year 734, after the birth of Christ,
at the time when all Spain was invaded by the African
infidels, the island Antilia, called Septe Cidade (the seven
cities) figured below, became peopled by an archbishop of
Oporto in Portugal, with six bishops and other Christian
men and ^omen, who had fled from Spain on board ship,
and came there with their cattle and their fortunes. It
was by accident that, in the year 1414, a Spanish vessel
approached the island very closely."

Portugal was not the only country where such impositions
were practised ; in England, George Psalmanazar not only
discovered (on paper) and min^^tely described the Island of

Formosa, but actually published a grammar of the language.
His pretended discovery was implicitly believed in for a
long time.

Again, so struck was the learned Budaeus with the
reality of Sir Thomas More's Utopia, an island supposed
to have been newly discovered in America, that he proposed
to send out missionaries to convert the natives.

One of the singular beliefs of the Sebastianists is that
Atlantis'^ still exists enchanted at the bottom of the sea, and
that El Rei D. Sebastiao resides on it. Some day, they
think, the spell will be removed, when it will rise again above

* Compare Shakespeare's " Tempest," and liis account of the Enchanted
Island, and Bacon's " New Atlantis " : — " About twenty years after the ascension of
our Saviour, it came to pass that there was seen by the people of Renfusa, a city
upon the eastern coast of our island, within night (the night was cloudy and calm),
as it might be some miles at sea, a great pillar of light, not sharp, but in form of
a cohmm or cylinder, rising from the sea, a great way up towards heaven, and on
the top of it was seen a large cross of light, more bright and resplendent than the
body of the pillar, upon which so strange a spectacle the people of the city
gathered apace together iipon the sands to wonder, and so after put themselves
into a number of small boats to go nearer to this marvellovis sight. But when the
boats were come within about sixty yards of the pillar, they found themselves all
bound, and could go no further, yet so as they might move to go about, but not
approach nearer, so as the boats stood all as in a theatre, beholding this light as a
heavenly sign." The Governor of the New Atlantis informs the strangers who
arrive there that " three thousand years ago, or somewhat more, the navigation of
the world, especially for remote voyages, was greater than at this day." He then
proceeds to enumerate the different peoples whose ships had visited the New
Atlantis, and continues : " And for our own ships, they went sundry voyages, as
Avell to your Straits, which you call the Pillars of Hercules, as to other parts in
the Atlantic and Mediterranean seas, as to Pegu, which is the same with
Cambalu, and Quinsay upon the Oriental seas, as far as to the borders of East
Tartary." The credulity and superstition of mariners are proverbial, and when the
rage for maritime discovery was at its height, the reader has only to glance at the
pages of Hakluyt, " Piirchas his Pilgrims," or " The World's Hydrographical
Description " by John Davis, for marvellous accounts of the earth and its
inhabitants. It may be noted here, as a proof of the early enterprise of the
Portuguese, that Hakhiyt published in IGOl the discoveries of the world, from
the First Original to the year of our Lord 1555, translated with additions, from the
Portuguese of Antonio Galvano, Governor of Ternate, in the East Indies.

tlie waters, and restore this adventurous prince to his
country and long expectant followers, as in the case of the
Emperor Barbarossa, who never returned from an expedition
to the Holy Land, and was also supposed to be enchanted
in a vault under the Castle of Kyffhausser —

The splendour of the Empire
He took with him away,
And back to earth will bring it
When dawns the chosen day.

Hiiepert.

The same belief would appear to have been shared in by
our own peoj)le in early days, for we find the following
inscription on King Arthur's gravestone : —

Hie jacet Arturus, Rex quondam Rex que futurus.
Here Arthur lies, who formerly
Was king, and king again to be

A reflection of this Sabastianist belief still lingers
amongst the inhabitants of St. Michael, for they firmly assert
the existence of enchanted islands on its N.E. side, where
they are said to occasionally appear in white, shadowy form.
In Santa Maria, this tradition pictures a knight in armour
appearing in ghostly shape, apparently sent to watch for all
" female " islands which have once been disenchanted, and
the nebulous apparitions to the north-east of St. Michael's
are waiting for the disenchanted islands to become once more
enchanted, that they may themselves break the chains which
spell-bind them.

Chapter III.

Prince Peduo — Pkixce Henhy, " Capitao Doxatario."

We spread the canvas to the rising gales ;
The gentle winds distend the snowy sails,
As from our dear-loved native shore we fly.
Our votive shouts, redoubled, rend the sky ;
" Success ! success ! " far echoes o'er the tide,
While our broad hulks the foamy waves divide,

MicMc's " Cmnoensy

In 1387, Dom Joao I., king of Portugal, had married the
Princess Phillippa, daughter of the Duke of Lancaster,
"Old John of Gaunt,'' by which union there were born:
Duarte, who succeeded to the throne on the death of his
father ; Pedro, the knight errant, of whom we are about to
treat ; Henrique, better known in England as Prince Henry
the navigator, but as the " conquistador," or conqueror, in
his own country, to whose energy and perseverance the
colonization of the A9ores is due ; Isabel, afterwards
Duchess of Burgundy, who, as we have seen, also assisted
materially in the settlement of the islands, and the Princes
Joao and Fernando.

Imbued with a strong desire to travel, Prince Pedro, who
was one of the most enlightened men of the day, left
Portugal with a suite of twelve persons in 1416, and journey-
ing through Spain and other countries, reached the Holy
Land, Constant nople, and Venice, visiting the courts of
Hungary, Denmark and England, where Henry VI. received
him with distinguished honour, conferring upon him the
Order of the Garter, in place of the Duke of Exeter who
had died in 1426.

Returning to Portugal in 1428, after an absence of twelve
years wanderings, Prince Pedro carried with him to his
native country the gift he had received from the Venetians,
consisting of a MS. copy of the travels of Marco Polo, a
translation of which was issued from the Lisbon press

for the first time in 1502, together with a mappa mundi
supposed to have been drawn by the great traveller, com-
prising the then known portions of the world, and from
the evidence afforded us including the Western Islands.
Stimulated by these valuable acquisitions. Prince Henry,
whose lofty and ardent passion for discovery had never
slumbered, and had received encouragement from his first
discoveries of Porto Santo and Madeira, in 1418 to 1420,
now determined to prosecute with energy the search for the
islands in the west, which he had seen mentioned in the old
charts. In the Portulano map of 1351 (on which the A9ores
already figured), the islands of Porto Santo and Madeira
are laid down as the " Isola de lo Legname," or island of
wood (Madeira in Portuguese also means wood or timber),
" Porto Santo," and " Isole Deserte," names which the
Portuguese preserved. Accordingly in 1431, the Prince
directed an expedition to be fitted out under Goncalo Velho
Cabral, with orders " to sail towards the setting sun until
he came to an island." These words, used by Candido
Lusitano, in his " Life of Prince Henry," imply a prior
knowledge on the part of that Prince of an island or islands
in the west, and go far to confirm the supposition that he was
already in possession of a map on which their geographical
situation was marked.

Antonio Galvao also mentions that Francisco de Souza
Tavares told him that in 1528 the Infante D. Fernando
had shown him a map found in the archives of Alcobaca,
drawn more than 170 years before, and which contained
all the " navigation " of India together with the Cape of
Good Hope. That this must have been the map the Prince
Dom Pedro had brought with him from Venice appears
very likely, for Candido Lusitano, writing on this very
subject, says that Prince Henry was heard to observe that
the existence of Sao Miguel tallied exactly with the islands
noted in his ancient map.

From the foregoing, it is evident that the date of the
first discovery of the Azores, or who the actual discoverers

were, must ever remain a qucestio vexata ; to Prince Henry
of Portugal, however, must be awarded the credit of laying-
down with precision their situation, and of ultimately
colonizing them by means of his own private resources.

The vessels sailed from Villa de Sagres in the Algarve,
with instructions to bear due west, and; on the tenth day,
the voyagers came upon a rugged group of rocks, amid
foaming breakers, which they named the Formigas, or Ants;
the largest of these, forming a small bay, offered them tem-
porary shelter ; but, unable to descry^ further signs of land
in any direction, Cabral returned chagrined and disappointed
to Lisbon. Prince Henry, however, only heard in this
narrative a confirmation of his enthusiastic hopes, and
despatching a larger and better appointed flotilla in the
following year, under the same leader, was amply rewarded
for his perseverance ; for, on the 15th August, 1432, Cabral
bore down upon and landed on the western part of a large
and well- wooded island, which he found uninhabited. In
commemoration of the day, he named it Santa Maria.
Quickly returning to Lisbon with the welcome news. Prince
Henry at once conferred on Cabral the lordship of the
island, and sending a vessel with cattle and various
domestic animals to be let loose upon it, he commanded
Cabral to prepare for its complete colonization, which was
effected three years later, most of the nobility and leading
families supplying representatives and vassals to people the
new country. Thus was Portugal's first step firmly planted
on this beautiful archipelago.

On the so-called Catalan map of Gabriel de Yalseca,
dated 1439, the entire group of these islands is laid down,
accompanied by what amounts to a certificate of good sea-

* The Formigas are distant from Retorta Point, St. Michael's, 33 nautical miles,
and to those who have frequently seen Santa Maria from that Island on a clear day
with the naked eye, it would seem strange that Cabral, having reached those rocks,
should have failed to discover either of the above islands on this first voyage, but
at that period they were covered with dense forests over which masses of cloud
were perpetually attracted and probably shrouded the highlands from view.

')0

mansliip on the part of Cabral's pilot, Diego de Sevill, who
is said to have found the islands, but considerable doubts
exist as to their having* all been visited by him during these
earlier expeditions.

In those days, Portugal bestowed upon the original dis-
coverers and colonizers of countries annexed to her Crown
the lordships of them, with the title of Capitao Donatario.
This post was held in high esteem, as, besides the emolu-
ments attaching to it, the fortunate holder was given plenary
powers, which secured him almost despotic sway. These
royal decrees or alvaras, as they were called, provided that
the Donatarios should have jurisdiction over the civil and
criminal courts, wherein the strict letter of the law was
to be enforced in all cases excepting death, or the severing
of limbs, which prerogatives alone belonged to the Crown.

All mandates issuing from the Donatarios were to be
everywhere respected, and a tithe of all taxes levied apper-
tained to them ; they were granted the monopoly of the
sale of salt, owned all the corn mills and baking ovens,
for the use of which contributions in kind were made by
the community. Under their sanction only could the cattle
and other animals^ which had become wild, be appropriated
by the colonists, and, finally, they had power of making grants
of uncultivated land to whomsoever they pleased, on con-
dition of its being occuj)ied by the settler within five years.

Their privileges were hereditary and descended to the
lineal successors of those to whom they were granted ;
provision being made for regencies in the case of
minors.

No wonder then that such comprehensive powers, making
of the Donatario a sort of sub-regulus, soon excited court
favorites to intrigue for these sinecures, until, culminating
in subsequent reigns to a scandalous pitch of abuse and
extortion, the time-honoured office was abolished by the
Spaniards during their temporary usurpation of the Crown
of Portugal, from 1580 to 1640, when these islands also
fell under the Spanish yoke.

D 2

Chapter IV.

Saxta Mauia — The Earl of Cumberland — Christopher Columbus — Natural

Features — Products and Manufactures.

In gowns of white, as sentenced felons clad,
When to the stake the sons of guilt are led,
"With feet unshod, they slowly moved along.

Santa Maria is situated in lat. 36^ 56' north, and long".
25^ 12' west of Greenwich.

It is about seven miles in its greatest, and five miles in
its smallest diameter^ and contains about 27,000 English
acres.

At first sight, it presents a, marked physical contrast
to the adjacent islands in the absence of those bowl-shaped
monticules, the unmistakeable indications of volcanic
eruptions, which characterise the latter at every step. On
close examination, however, we find a basaltic base and
general trap formation, which, with the curious caves in
different localities, tell of igneous origin.

The severe earthquakes, which at various periods have
wrought such desolation upon some of the other islands,
have seldom, if ever, been felt here. This would seem to place
Santa Maria outside the focus of these destructive forces.
In many localities, the soil consists entirely of patches of
a deep red argil, known as Pozsolana, a volcanic production
much used for making hydraulic cement.^

In exploring the geology of this island, the most interest-
ing features encountered, chiefly on the east side, and at

* There are many formulas used, one of the best being — 1 part blue lias lime ;
2 parts sand ; 2 parts pozzolana : the mixture hardening under water in less
than fifteen hours.

Figueiral, Meio-Moio, and Papagaio, are veins of a hard,
brittle calcareous rock, rich, in fossils of marine mollusca,
of a by-gone age, excellent specimens of which are exhibited
at the museum of Ponta Delgada. Hartung found and de-
scribed twenty-three of these, of which eight appear to be
identical with existing species ; twelve are referred to
European tertiary forms (chiefly Upper Miocene), the rest
being new species. One of these, Cardium Hartungi, is
common in Porto Santo, and Baixo. These layers of lime-
stone are about 20 feet thick, resting upon, and again
covered by, basaltic lavas, scoriae, and conglomerates.

Like all the other islands of the A9ores, Santa Maria, Avhen
first discovered, was densely wooded, and the soil for many
years produced the richest cereal crops in the whole archi-
pelago ; now, except in the valleys, there are few trees to be
seen, and these are limited to the candleberry myrtle
{MyricaFaya), Louro (Lau7'us indica), ^lidVaohv^nco {Picconia
excelsa) . There are few orange trees, their cultivation being
unremunerative, though the quality of fruit is excellent, as
indeed is that of every other kind of fruit or vegetable grown
here. In the ravines, intermixed with ferns, may be seen
the Phormium Tenax, or New Zealand flax plant, growing
wild and luxuriant.

The loftiest points in the island are Pico Alto^ 1,900 feet ;
Pico do Sul, 1,720 feet; and Pico do Facho, 780 feet high.

That the altitudes of this and the other islands have,
since the Miocene period, when they are supposed to have
emerged, lost much through constant denudation, seems
certain, for valleys have been rendered level with higher
ground and once fertile hills reduced into stony heaps by
this powerful agent.

It is estimated that the mean altitude of Europe is 671
feet, and that from simple denudation alone the continent
would be worn down to sea level in about two million years.
Judging from the disintegrating influences their surfaces
are ever exposed to, nothing would seem to be able to arrest

the much more rapid disappearance of these bare islands,
save complete re-f orestation or the great upheaval confidently
predicted by the late Mr. Darwin, which is slowly in process
in these seas.'^

Owing to its southerly position and its hare high-
lands, Santa Maria is frequently visited with drought.
In the summer of 1876 all the crops were lost and the in-
habitants were driven to great straits^ exporting nearly all
their cattle to obtain the bare necessaries of life. Many of
them, unable to subsist upon the scanty food procurable,
emigrated in large numbers to Brazil.

The year 1881-82 was again a bad one, during which
6,172 quarters of maize were imported, the island not having
produced sufficient for consumption.

Originally from Estremadura and Algarve, in the south
of Portugal, the inhabitants are honest and extremely gentle,
and preserve in a greater degree than any of the other
Azoreans the singular phonetic characteristics of the
Portuguese language of the Mediieval ages, which, though
not without certain euphony, is nevertheless a source of
considerable amusement to their more progressive brethren
on the adjoining islands, who cannot reconcile its soft
musical sounds with their own much harsher and caco-
phonous speech of to-day. On this account they enjoy the
sobriquet of " Cagaros," and are considered the " Johnny
Raws " of the A9ores.

The climate of Santa Maria is equable and exceedingly
pleasant, and were it not for the utter absence of
accommodation and society, its greater immunity from
moisture and damp mists would suit it beyond any of the

* As an instance of the serious damage caused by the heavy rains in these
islands, I may mention that during the stormy Avinter of 1880-81 many of the
chief Macadamised thoroughfares in the district of Ponta Delgada in St. Michael,
equal to the best roads on the continent, were absolutely cleared of their foun-
dations, the debris being carried long distances until reaching the sea, rendering
the roads impassible and forming ruts and cavities, in some places 17 feet in
depth, -which cost the municipality £2,150 to repair.

others as a winter resort for invalids subject to pulmonary
disorders.

The chief town is named Porto, and is picturesquely
situated on rising ground overlooking the small bay of
Santa Luzia, once defended by three now delapidated forts,
mounting some 30 guns, which were necessary to repel the
frequent attacks of Algerine"^ pirates and French corsairs
who infested these seas in the 16th century.

The most noticeable of these occurred on the
5th August, 1576, when 300 Frenchmen landing from their
galleys during the night, completely routed the surprised
and badly armed inhabitants, many of whom were put to
the sword. After sacking the town, the marauders made
off with their booty. Another attack was made 13 years
later by four large and powerfully armed French cruisers ;
but this time the islanders were better prepared, and under
the leadership of their Donatario, Bras Soares, made a
gallant resistance, beating off the assailants with the loss of
their captain and many of his followers, and greatly
damaging their ships.

In the autumn of 1598, the Earl of Cumberland and the
celebrated Captain Lister were cruising about these islands,
and approaching St. Mary with the intention of obtaining
water for their ships, discovered two Spanish vessels laden
with sugar from Brazil lying at anchor close in shore ; these.
Captain Lister immediately proceeded to cut out, losing in
the operation two men killed and sixteen wounded — one of
the ships however could not be got off, when the Earl him-
self undertook the task, and, underrating his enemy, lost
in killed and wounded eighty men. "The Earl received
three shot upon his target, and a fourth on the side not
deepe, his head also broken with stones that the blood

* The seizure of Constantinople by the Turks in 1453, and the success
everywhere attending their arms, caused the Algerine Moors to redouble their
piratical expeditions in these waters, demanding unceasing vigilance on the part of
the islanders to repel sudden attacks.

covered his face, both it and his legs likewise burned with
fire balls." ^

In 1493 Santa Maria had the honour of receiving-
Christopher Columbus under rather peculiar circumstances.
On returning from his first discovery of Hispaniola, or Hayti,
his caravel, the '' Mna," was overtaken by so terrible a storm
in mid Atlantic, as to imperil the safety of the gallant little
vessel. The intercession of the Virgin having been invoked,
the pious navigator and the whole of his crew made a vow
that, should they be saved, they would on reaching land walk
bare-headed and bare-footed, and with no clothing on save
their shirts, to offer thanksgiving at the nearest shrine.

Driven by the storm under the lee of Santa Maria, on
the 17th February, Columbus sent one-half of the ship's
company on shore, headed by a priest, to fulfil their promise,
but the Governor, Dom Joao de Castanheda, a plain, un-
sophisticated being, apprised of the unwonted procession,
and probably resenting the singular garb, especially in the
depth of winter, as an insult to the sesthetics of Santa Maria,
ordered the whole of the j)ious pilgrims, whom he took for
a piratical band, to be arrested ; meanwhile, a strong wind
and sea rising, the " Mila " was forced to slip anchor, and
is supposed to have reached S. Miguel, but being unable
to find shelter there, returned to her former position on the
22nd, when Columbus held a parley with the Governor, and
exhibiting his commission, was able to appease his fears,
and obtain the release of his followers. It is said, however,
that Castanheda had previously received secret orders from
his sovereign to seize the person of Columbus, should he call at
the^ island, and send him a prisoner to Lisbon to be punished
for transferring his services and discoveries to the King of
Spain ; but the wily captain, suspecting treachery, declined
to trust himself ashore. The " Niiia " finally sailed from
the inhospitable island on the 24th February. In the town
is a large parish church, the religious orders having been

* J'urclias.

represented by three hng-e convents and a Franciscan monas-
ter}^, to which belonged the most fertile lands in the island ;
these buildings are now mostly occupied as public offices.

The Formigas rocks, about 20 miles to the north-east of
the island, offer in calm weather a pleasant excursion by sea,
with the additional excitement of capturing a somnolent
turtle on the way, or having a shot at a large species of
seal [PJiocula Leporina), which at certain seasons of the year
resorts to these rocks.

Almost all of them abound with an esculent mollusk,
called by the natives Craca, but known to science as Balanus
tintinnahuhtm — plainly boiled, and eaten with the Indian corn
bread of the country, they form an epicurean feast. It is no
easy matter, however, to procure them, for the shells cling
so tenaciously to the rocks, that portions of these have to
be broken and brought away before the succulent delicacies
can be secured ; the natives say that the best are those on
which " the sun has never shone."

For domestic purposes there is abundance of water, a
perennial spring rising in the very crest of the highest
point in the island (an inaccessible rock near Monte Gordo)
and dashes with mad career over its rugged sides, forming
beautiful cascades on its way to the sea, into which it finally
tumbles from over the entrance to a romantic cave, which
extends for half a mile into the interior.

Another extensive cavern is nearly one hundred yards in
length, and in some places upwards of forty feet high, with
lateral branches radiating in all directions and presenting a
beautiful sight when lighted up by torches, owing to the
numerous pensile incrustations on the roof and sides,
gleaming like gems. These stalactites are of calcareous
formation, and if undisturbed, assume fantastic shapes, but
Yandal raids are now and then made upon them for
ornamental rock-work.

In these caves is found a soft, grey earthy deposit, much
used by the natives for bleaching purposes.

Several other islets stud the coast, and were formerly the
resort of innumerable sea-birds, the eggs of which furnished
the old colonists with an important item of food.

The first settlers introduced quail and the red-legged
partridge from Portugal, both being now common, and with
rabbits and rock pigeons, the latter abounding along the high
and inaccessible cliffs, afford capital sport, rendered none the
less enjoyable, perhaps, by the physical difiiculties of the
country which the sportsman has in many places to overcome.

Education is much neglected here, there being barely
four elementary schools for boys and one for girls, but even
these are poorly attended. The trade of the island is
insignificant, the average produce of pulse of all kinds being
limited to some 6,000 to 7,000 quarters, and allowing little
margin for export. Formerly some 200 boxes of oranges
were made up, but these are now reduced to less than half,
and are never exported.

The inhabitants have for many years manufactured a
common pottery for kitchen purposes, the chief merit of
which consists in the graceful amphora shapes of many of
the vessels made ; these they export to the neighbouring
islands, where it is a curious sight to see a large boat arrive
from Santa Maria with a huge centre pile of this crockery,
the articles being simply placed one upon the other without
any packing, yet seldom does any breakage occur.

These vessels are painted, before being baked, with a
coating of red ochre, thinly diluted in water, which
imparts to them a bright colour and lustre. The clay used
is exported to several of the other islands.

The total value of the exports and imports during the
years 1881 to 1884 were as follows : — •

1881-2. 1882-3. 1883-4.

Imports.. £7,792 .. £5,338 .. £5,030
Exports.. 4,673 .. 5,661 .. 5,122
The average annual fiscal receij^ts amount to £1,335,
and the total expenditure to £1,348.

The cliief exports are wheat, sometmies maize and barley,
and from 200 to 300 head of cattle every year, as well
as cheeses, butter, eggs, fowls, turkeys, and live partridges.

Some of the best horses in the A9ores are bred here, and
the cattle are also large and fine-looking animals ; they were
originally imported from the south of Portugal, and are
remarkable for the immense length of their horns. In
winter, when green fodder is scarce, cattle are given, and
seem to enjoy, the young leaves of the aloe — agave americana
— which everywhere abounds. This practice also obtains in
the Algarve, in localities where pasture is scarce.

Chapter V.

The Fohmigas — Why so Called — The Dollaijauets — Desckiption of these

Rocks — Lighthouses.

ritarus [/oq/titur) :

Far in the bosom of the deep,

O'er these Avilcl shelves my Avatch I keep ;

A ruddy gem of changeful light,

Bound on the dusky brow of night,

The seaman bids my lustre hail,

And scorns to strike his timorous sail,

iSir IF. Scott.

The cluster of rocks first sighted by Cabral, and named by
liim the Formigas, or Ants, is situated to the north-east
of the island of Santa Maria, at a distance of about 20 miles
from Matos .

They are the crests of a submarine mountain which
Captain Vidal, E.IST., traced to a depth of 200 fathoms,
extending Q\ miles from N.W. to S.E., by about 3 miles in
breadth. It is on the western margin of this bank that the
Formigas occur, occupying a space of 800 yards in length,
and 150 yards in breadth.

The southernmost of them, which is 27 feet above low
water springs, afiPords some slight shelter in a bay on the
west ; it is in latitude 37° 16' 14" north, longitude 24° 47' .06'
west. The highest, known as the Formigrio, or Great Ant,
rises out of the ocean like a grim ghost on the eastern side
of this bank to a height of 35 feet. The fused calcareous
veins, so full of fossil shells, which abound on the east coast
of St. Mary's, are also found in the Formigas.

Three and a quarter miles to the S.E. of these occurs a
shoal, named Dollabarets, from Captain P. Dollabarets, who

4c5

first called attention to it in 1788. These rocks are tabular
shaped, and at low-water springs have only 11 feet of water
on them ; they are, therefore, more dang-erons in calm than
in stormy weather, when the seas break over them.

Cabral had already observed these rocks in 1431, for
lie called them the Lesser Formigas, and noted them as
extremely dangerous, not only because of their shallow
depth, but on account of the strong currents between their
channels.

During the fierce storms whicli torment these seas in
winter, not only the Dollabarets, but the Formigas, are
buried in cataracts of foam ; haze and fog contributing to
canopy them from view.

If these barren rocks could speak, what a ghastly tale of
woe they would reveal ! It seems certain that they have
been the scene of frequent and fatal wrecks, from v^hicli
not a soul has survived. Oftentimes floating spars and
other portions of wreck and cargo are carried to the neigh-
bouring shores — the silent but certain tokens of some sucli
occurrence ; but it is seldom that a boat's crew lias preceded
or followed them.

It is astonishing that in latitudes like these, so much
frequented by ships of all nationalities, not a single light-
bouse should have been erected for their protection on any
of these perilous rocks. The conscience of Portugal, bow-
ever, to whom the task properly belongs, would seem at last
to have been partly awakened by the reproach of repeated
fatalities, for in 1882 a commission was appointed to study
the question of lighthouses for the Azores, the result of
which was an elaborate report recommending the establish-
ment of three ligbts at Santa Maria, one on Formigao, the
largest of the Formigas rocks, five for San Michael's, three
each for Graciosa, Terceira, San Jorge and Fayal, one for
Pico, three for Flores, and two for Corvo ; the estimated
cost of these, including buildings, &c., amounting to £63,437,
but up to the present, with tbe exception of two lights at

St. Micliaers, and one at Fayal, little has been done to
carry into effect the recomraendation of the commission.

These are the only dangerous rocks around the Azores,
with the exception of a recently-formed ridge just perceptible
on the surface of the sea, almost in mid-channel between
S. Miguel and Terceira, and occupying a space of some nine
miles in a direction ^.W., S.E., and in lat. N. 38^ 16', and
between longitudes 26^ 41' and 26° 50' W. of Greenwich.

This shoal would seem to have been observed in 1749, but
it disappeared shortly afterwards until 1882-3, when it again
rose — without, however, any previous eruption. It would be
interesting to closely watch this apparent elevation of the
land, and the vicissitudes which it undergoes.

6o'

J
I

50-

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Z4^.

/'^t-4^''

240

-100 ,^>,

69 \^-

68 ^G,

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174
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\ "'■^ 242

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5- .169 132 ■■.. 75 JTa*

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371
4o\

55'

MAP OF

Chapter VI.

San' Miguel — Traditions concerning its Discovery — "Why so called

Political Status — Chief To^vn — Destruction ov Villa Franca —

War of Races — Slavery*.

Thou hast a cloud
For ever in thy sky ; a breeze, a shower
For ever on thy meads. Yet where shall man,
Pursuing spring around the globe, refresh
His eye with scenes more beauteous than adorn
Thy fields of matchless verdure? — Carrington.

The first discovery of tlie island of St. Michael's is
shrouded in complete obscurity ; neither do we know any-
thing of the brave adventurers who first approached its
shores.

Writing of the island, Padre Freire, in his Life of D.
Henrique, says that Prince Henry remarked that its dis-
covery " concordava com os sens antigos mappas," i.e.,
agreed with the ancient maps in his possession.

Cordeiro mentions a tradition of a Greek vessel surprised
at Cadiz by a storm about the year 1370, and carried as far as
San' Miguel. Her owner wished to colonize it, and returned
the following year with that intention, but being unable to
again make the island, abandoned the idea. Andrea Bianco,
in his map of 1436, gave the name of Mar de Baga to the Sea
of Sargasso, near the northern border of which the Azores are
situated ; this tends to prove that the Portuguese, prior to
1436, had navigated as far as the Sea of Sargasso, or Baga, as
they called it, otherwise whence was the name derived ? The
vesicles of marine algae^ are like berries or bagos — especially

* Quantities of these alga^ are, at certain seasons of the year, washed ashore at
Graciosa, particularly at a place called Gruta do Manhengo. The inhabitants
come there from all parts of the island, working day and night, to collect all they
can, the weed containing much potash and soda, and being a rich fertilizer.

those of Fucus natcuis, F. vericulosus and F, baccifenis, of
wliicli the Sea of Sargasso is so largely formed, and which
induced the early navigators to call it " Mar de Baga," a
purely Portuguese name.

A curious document exists in the archives of the Torre
do Tombo, in Lisbon, being a decree of Affonso Y., dated
the 10th April, 1455, granting a free pardon to Catharina
Fernandez, who had been banished some ten years previously,
when only a child of 10 or 11 years of age, to the island of
" Ssam Miguell " for complicity in some aggravated crime ;
inferring that the island must have been colonized some
time before its reputed discovery in 1444.

That seven out of the nine islands composing the group
were known to the Portuguese prior to that date, seems
certain, for another decree of D. Affonso, bearing date the
2nd July, 1439, grants permission to his uncle. Prince Henry,
to people these seven islands; unfortunately their names
are not given, but undoubtedly they were the seven nearest
to Portugal, and included all but Corvo and Plores. It is
not until fourteen years later that mention is made for the
first time of these extreme westerly islands in a decree of
the same king, dated the 20th January, 1453, in which he
makes grant of Corvo to the Duke of Braganza. It must,
therefore, have been between 1449 and 1453"^ that these two
islan ds were discovered ; but so little was known of the
archipelago, that in Pedro Appiano's Cosmography, dated
1524, only seven islands of the A9ores were mentioned.

Cabral first landed at S. Miguel on the 8th May, 1444,
and he returned again with settlers on the 29th September
of the same year. It was in the interval between these two
dates that the great eruption occurred at the Sete Cidades,
mentioned in another place.

It is strange that the spirit of enterprise which dis-

* The Portuguese historians fix the date at 1452, and assign the discovery to
Joao de Teive.

tinguislied the Portuguese at this epochs should have rested
satisfied with the bald discovery of the one island of Santa
Maria, for, although only 44 miles of channel separated it
from the neighbouring and larger one of S. Miguel, it took
the pioneers fully twelve years before they apparently
became aware of its existence ; notwithstanding that, during
this interval vessels were constantly passing to and fro,
bearing a constant influx of new settlers and supplies from
the mother country to the isolated but salubrious and fertile
colony.

The task of further search was once more committed to
Cabral, who, after several vain attempts, at last succeeded
in sighting the island on the 8th May, 1444, and, in
celebration of the day, named it San Miguel. Landing
at a spot on the S.E. side, encircled by a small bay, now
known as Povoa9ao, the adventurers penetrated as far into
the interior as the thick bushwood and virgin forest
permitted, and after collecting what emblems they could
of its natural productions, set sail for Lisbon.

Like all the other islands of the group, not a trace of the
former presence of man was found in San Miguel by its
Portuguese discoverers, and no records have been met with
of the time " when wild in woods the noble savage ran."
Nevertheless, this island, like Corvo, enjoys its myth of
ancient monuments. •

Andre Thevet, cosmographer to Henry III. of France,
records in his work published in 1575 a visit he paid to the
island of S. Miguel, about the year 1550, and mentions the
existence, on the basaltic cliffs on the north side of the
island, between Santo Antonio and Bretanha, of caves
wherein the first inhabitants found "two monuments of
stone, twelve feet in length, and four and a half broad, on
which were sculptured the forms of two large snakes, and
inscriptions recognised to be in Hebrew characters by a
man, a native of Spain, whose father was a Jew, his mother

beino" a Moorisli woman. This man was nnable to interpret
the inscriptions, owing to their being- so obliterated by time.
He, however, made a copy of them, and Thevet illustrates
them in his cosmography, where he proceeds to tiay that so
many people, visiting the caves out of curiosity, lost their
lives in them, as to cause the authorities to have the entrance
closed up with stone and lime.

This account is held by the islanders as altogether
fallacious; but it seems strange that Thevet, who un-
doubtedly visited S. Miguel about 1550, should have
needlessly invented it. The only feasible explanation is,
that he must either have heard of, or viewed, the very
singular superimposed caves near Eelva (so graphically
described by Dr. Webster in his book on the island),"^ on
entering which, visitors are cautioned against falling down
a deep and narrow cleft, which cuts the upper gallery in two,
the ancient monuments of stone having been thrown in by
the fancifal Frenchman to spice his narrative.

To secure to his master possession of the country, Cabral
formed a small settlement (at Povoa9ao), consisting of a few
of his friends and some African slaves whom he had taken
for the purpose, giving them instructions to test the fertility
of the soil. These poor people were destined to be the terri-
fied witnesses of, perhaps, the most awful cataclysm which
has ever overtaken these islands, and by the evidence they
were able to give to establish an important date in their
ceismic annals which would otherwise have been lost.

S. Miguel, at this time, presented a remarkable appearance

* In Purchas' (4th vol., 1625) " Relation of Master Thomas Turner, who lived
the best part of two years in Brazil, and which I received of him in conference,
touching his travels." Turner, who appears from a description he gives of the hot
springs at Furnas, to have visited St. Miguel, says — " In these islands (Aqores) in
caves were found men buried before the conquest, whole." But, as no " conquest "
was ever made of these islands. Turner probably confounded them with the
Canaries, where he had perhaps also been, the original inhabitants of which,
conquered by the Spaniards, were in the habit of burying their dead in caves.

by reason of two great mountains which, at either of
its eastern and western extremities, like two watchful Q-iants,
reared their cusps high up into the clouds, forming con-
spicuous landmarks, and being the beacons which had guided
Cabral to their shores. How shall we describe his amaze-
ment when, on returning with a numerous following a year
later, and in the capacity of Donatario of the joint islands
of St. Mary and St. Michael, he saw that the largest of
these, on the western side of the island, had totally disap-
peared, and in its j)lace nothing remained but a circular and
apparently hollow cone !

Sailing nearer, the navigators came upon fields of floating
pumice and immense trunks of trees. Slowly continumg
their course, they arrived at their old settlement of Povoacao
on the 29th September, 1445, and were hailed with joy by
their friends. From them Cabral learnt that four months
previously the island had been convulsed by repeated shoci^s
of earthquake, and that almost immediately on the cessation
of these, flames of fire had appeared on the summit of the
western mountain, w^hich then commenced to vomit forth
large stones and to cover the island with hot ashes, until
the mass gradually disappeared from sight. These revela-
tions, and the earnest entreaties of the affrighted settlers to
be removed from the island, cast consternation into the ranks
of CabraPs followers ; but, true to his mission, the gallant
navigator commanded all the stores to be landed, and send-
ing away his ships, prepared for its colonization.

From Povoa9ao smaller settlements soon segregated
throughout the island, until one of these, situated near the
present site of Villa Franca on the south-east coast and offer-
ing greater natural advantages, was selected as the chief and
capital town, taking the name of Villa Franca do Campo,
and becoming the residence of the Donatario, under whose
protecting aegis the other villages remained for over seventy-
eight years, during which interval no volcanic eruptions or
earthquakes of note are chronicled.

E 2

Villa Franca, or tlie Free Town, enjoyed, as its name
implies, at this time, certain privileges and exemptions,
amongst others complete immunity from fiscal contribu-
tions ; and, being the seat of Government, it naturally
attracted many residents. Its spacious though exposed
harbour enabled it to carry on an important trade v^ith
the other coast settlements, and we find it, in 1522, a
flourishing community of over 5,000 inhabitants.

The immutable decree of fate had, however, been sealed
against the devoted town, for, on the morning of the 22nd
of October of the above-mentioned year, shortly before day-
break, and in the midst of perfect stillness,

Like that strange silence which precedes the storm,
And shakes the forest leaves ^Yithout a breath,

a terrific earthquake suddenly rent the earth, and,
upheaving a high hill, which stood to the north of Yilla
Franca, at a distance of some 450 yards, hurled the mass
with irresistible force upon the hapless place, which was
completely destroyed. In its ruins perished 5,000 souls,
only seventy escaping the fatal catastrophe.

So suddenly did all this happen, and without any pre-
monitory warning, that, from the time the crash was first
heard to the moment of the entire demolition of the place,
only sixty seconds are said to have elapsed.

This terrible " deluvio de terra," or earth deluge, as the
old writers call it, does not appear to have been accom-
panied by any volcanic eruption, but volumes of water
subsequently issuing from the site of the demolished hill,
and forming impetuous streams, inundated the country
around, and with destructive force^ carried everything
before them.

The sea, too, filled up the vial o^ horrors, for a great tidal
wave, leaping high up the shore, threatened it with total
submersion.

Some half-dozen caravels lying at anchor off the town
narrowly escaped foundering, and the effects of the shock

were felt far out at sea, in a south-east direction, by the
crew of a vessel proceeding to Madeira.

Four shocks of lesser violence succeeded the first, at
intervals of two or three hours, and seemed to have travelled
from Ponta Delgada in the south, round the eastern side of
the island as far as Maia in the north, where several serious
landslips occurred. In the valley of the Furnas, a land
wave carried huge cedar trees on its crest, and deposited
them a considerable distance away. The loss of life at these
various places, then sparsely populated, amounted to nearly
forty, but the destruction of property, churches, and other
buildings was considerable. As soon as the terror-stricken
survivors and inhabitants of the neighbourmg villages
ventured to approach what was now a dreary solitude, where
not a vestige of the once flourishing Villa Franca remained,
endeavours were made to save what lives still existed, buried
beneath the ruins ; some few were thus recovered, but of
these many were bereft of reason ; others had lost all power
of speech, whilst, in singular contrast to the surrounding
chaos, a little child three years old was found playing with
fragments of debris that had buried alive her parents hard
by. The excavations continued for upwards of a year, the
devotion of the survivers sacrificing everything to afford the
remains of the victims Christian burial.

We are told that when this search had been nearly
completed, the excavators came upon the skeleton of a
mounted horseman, with spurs still fixed, and lance poised
just as he had been engulphed and mired whilst wending
his way into the country.

Undismayed by what had befallen the old town, and
probably prompted by additional exemptions conferred upon
them by the executive, the survivors proceeded to rebuild a
new town, almost upon the ruins of the old one, which.
Phoenix-like, soon outvied the older settlement. It now
contains upwards of 5,000 inhabitants, and is second only
to Ponta Delgada in importance.

Scarcely had the sufferings caused by the great earth-
quake been appeased, than another dire visitation befel
these poor islanders in the form of a fatal plague, which,
accidentally introduced from abroad, in the summer of
1523, committed terrible ravages, and, during the eight
years of its duration, decimated the inhabitants of Ponta
Delgada and Ribeira Grande. In the former no less than
2,000 persons died; the losses in the latter amounting to
more than 1,000, besides great numbers of ISTegro slaves.

The evil results of slavery, v^hich at this time became
rampant in Portugal, and had crept into her colonies (every-
where producing a vitiated condition of society, sapping the
energies of an industrious people, and intensifying their
baser qualities), had been slowly bringing these once virtuous
islanders under its baneful influences. To such a pitch had
the evil extended, that, in 1531, the Negro population, in
many places, far outnumbered the European.

Fearing a revolt and the ascendency of the Blacks (who
had the sympathy of, and were instigated, it was said, by
the Lusitanian Moors, who had found an asylum in the
island), and led on by an ignorant and brutal priesthood,
who attributed the recent successive calamities to the anger
of an incensed heaven at the presence of these heathens,
the frenzied islanders were easily induced to enter upon a
war of race and supremacy, in the course of which every
male Negro and Arab was savagely massacred — an ignoble
deed, which must ever remain a stain in the history of these
eminently peaceful people.

It is owing to the presence of these slaves for so long a
period, and the introduction of half-breeds from the Brazils,
that so many 2')rognathous types are met with amongst the
inhabitants of Portugal and her dependencies.

The Marquis of Pombal, the greatest minister Portugal
ever had, and the man who dared, during a bigoted and
priest-ridden time, to expel the Jesuits from the country,
had the courage also, in 1773, to decree the abolition of

slavery throughout Portugal and the Colonies, but the
corrupt condition into which society had drifted never
allowed the enactment to be entirely carried out, and, on
the great minister's fall from power, slavery became for a
time, as regnant as ever.

As an example of the brisk trade carried on in human
flesh, especially during the Spanish interregnum in these
islands, we find records of Gon9alo Coutinho, the Governor
of St. Michael, contracting with the Spanish Government
for the introduction of 4,240 African slaves every year into
the Brazilian Colony. This contract was to hold good for
nine years, commencing in 1603, the Government receiving
a capitation tax in consideration of the same, amounting to
140,000 ducats. A similar privilege had been held by a brother
of this Governor, Joao R. Coutinho, up to 1602, when he
died, the Spanish Government receiving as consideration
162,000 ducats. Thus we see that, during the eighteen
years of which these contracts treat, no less than 76,320
slaves were conveyed from African ports to the Brazils.

In 1585, two British cruisers, entering the roads of Ponta
Delgada, surprised a Portuguese vessel full of African slaves,
whom they at once liberated.

According to the inventory of Jacome Dias Correa, a

wealthy landowner of Penaes, and dated 1543, we find that

the price of slaves in S. Miguel at that time was as follows:

Black slaves and mulattoes, from 17$ to 20§000

Slaves of two years of age . . . . 4§000

A mulatta of 12 years . . . . . . 10§000

Mares were then worth 4^000 ; fillies from 1§000 to 2$000 ;
bulls 3§000; cows in calf 1§300.

During the reigns of John I. (1385), Alfonso V. (1438),
and Sebastian (1557), immense numbers of lives were lost in
the sieges of Ceuta and other Moorish strongholds ; so much
so, that the latter prince was only able by force to get
together 11,000 men for his last unfortunate expedition.

It was to replace these men, as labourers in the fields

and for domestic purposes, tliat Negroes were first imported
in large numbers into Portugal, and, in 1521, threatened to
outnumber the native population. We find Garcia de
Eesende lamenting this state of things in a couplet in his
" Miscellanea " thus : —

Vemos no reyno metter,
Tantos cativos crescer,
E irem-se os naturaes
Que se assim for, serao mais
Elles que nos a meu ver.

(We see brought into the realm

So many captives increase,
I fear they will us o'erwhelm,

If this don't speedily cease.)

The following ofiicial figures, derived from the Portu-
guese customs records, give some idea of the extent of the
trafiic in human flesh from African ports to Brazil and
Spanish Colonies, from the year 1807 to 1819, when English
cruisers first checked the trade : —

Shipments to Brazil

680,000

„ Spanish Colonies

615,000

„ other places

562,000

Loss during voyage

337,000

From 1819 to 1847:

Shipments to Brazil

1,122,000

„ Spanish Colonies

831,000

Loss during voyage

688,000

Captured by cruisers . . . .

117,000

2,194,000

2,758,000

Total from 1807 to 1847 . . . . 4,952,000

Chapter VII.

Earthquakes and Volcanic Eruptions — " Sabrina " — Zoology and Botany.

A shore so flo^vcry, and so sweet an air,
Venus might build her dearest temple there.

" Camdens.^^

A GLANCE at the physical character of the island of S.
Miguel marks it as the very focus and theatre of igneous
activity in this region. Everywhere around are evidences
of this in the truncated cones of all dimensions, the scarped
and deeply furrowed sides of which, with their immense
concavities, tell of the awful power which gave them birth.

All about the sloping flanks of these " basal wrecks " are
clearly discernible the regular furrows, in places forming
dark ravines, hollowed out by the flowing lava, and con-
stantly deepened by erosion and heavy rains.

In the interior of these cones are precipices 2,000 feet in
depth, into which the spectator peers with awe and admira-
tion at the wild grandeur and indescribable beauty of the
scene, for, as if regretting her work, and desirous of hiding
all evidences of the barren desolation which must have per-
vaded these spots, nature has clothed these once gloomy
wastes in a mantle of rich verdure up to their very summits.

The earliest account we have of volcanic eruptions in
this island is of the one which, in 1445, completely destroyed
the highest eminence it boasted, situated in its western
extremity, leaving in its place a hollow crater upwards of
four geographical miles in circumference, with a concavity
measuring at its base one and a quarter geographical miles
in diameter. The lips of this gigantic cone were ascertained
by Capt. Yidal, R.N., who made a careful survey of all these

islands in 1844, to be 1,880 feet higli on the western
side.

At the bottom are two lakes, separated by a narrow neck
of land, and remarkable for the striking contrast of the
colour of their waters. Seen from above, the larger one, or
Lagoa Grande, is of a bright emerald, and the smaller one,
or Lagoa Azul, of a deep cerulean hue. They are 866 feet
above the sea level, and their depth varies from 1 to
14 fathoms. On the northern side of the Lagoa Grande,
however, there is a spot where the depth attains 58 fathoms,
and was evidently one of the " funnels " through which
the molten mass poured.

On the north-west side is a great gap in the cone, the
walls of which are 1,620 and 1,770 feet high, down which a
stream of lava flowed into the sea.

There is abundant and unmistakable evidence that, at a
still more distant period, the eastern side of the island, at
the spot now occupied by the valley of the Furnas, as well
as other localities, must have been the scene of violent
dislocations. Unfortunately, no means are afforded us of
ascertaining the precise dates of these.

Shocks and eruptions subsequent to those of 1445 and
1522, occurring at irregular intervals of from ten to twenty
years down to the present time, appear to have gradually
lessened in intensity, as if the mighty agency which caused
them were slowly dying out. The history of Vesuvius, how-
ever, and of the volcanoes of Iceland and South America,
which, after even centuries of complete quiescence, have
broken out afresh with devastating energy, warn us that
the " Ides of March " are not yet passed here, and that the
terrible forces, now apparently inert, may at any moment
break out again with renewed fury.

In 1538, a submarine eruption occurred on a shoal off
the extreme north-west point of S. Miguel, known as Ponta
da Ferraria, where an islet was formed, measuring over
three miles in circumference. It subsided, and altogether

disappeared at the expiration of twenty-five days, leaving a
bank at a depth of 490 feet, and at a distance of about
three miles from the shore.

The year 1563 was rich in disaster. Owing to the
lengthened period over which the various occurrences
extended, some slight confusion has arisen as to the
positive dates of each ; but it is clear that, from the latter
end of June to the beginning of August, a succession of
intermittent and severe eruptions took place, during which
no less than forty shocks of earthquake were recorded
within a period of four hours.

A cone to the east of the present mountain of Serra
d'Agoa de Pao (3,070 feet in height) shot forth immense
quantities of lavaj pumice-stone and ashes. The mass of
lava, bifurcating into two streams, destroyed everything in
its way, until, reaching the sea, which it drove before it, it
filled up the foreshore opposite Agoa de Pao, forming a
shallow and rugged bank.

The mountain was entirely destroyed, and its site is now
indicated by a romantic and beautiful lake, about a mile-
and-a-half in circumference, and 15 fathoms in depth, almost
encircled by precipitous cliffs.

Another terrible outbreak occurred about the same time
on the northern side of the island, not far from Ribeira
Grande, the Pico do Sapateiro, a large hill which almost
dominated the town, vanishing from view.

Ribeira Grande itself providentially escaped destruction
from the lava overflow, which skirted it on its way to the
coast. The fearful detonations, however, produced by the
escaping gases, and the bursting lava bombs, as they shot
up high in the air, and the numerous earthquakes, caused
much damage, scarcely a house remaining standing.

A third eruption broke out in the valley of the Furnas,
in the vicinity of a lake, now known as Lagoa Secca, the
outpour of lava being accompanied by loud explosions, as
the captive gases expanded beyond their limits.

Tlie lava emitted by the Pico do Sapateiro was highly
charged with metallic matter (probably oxide of iron),
which causes it to resist for a greater length of time the
disintegrating influences of the irriguous climate of the
uplands on which it mostly fell.

This lava is less s coriaceous, and of greater specific
gravity than most of the lavas met with in the island ;
hence the sterility of the ground it covers. The burning
cinders from these volcanoes wrapped the island in total
darkness, and covered the ground in several places to a
depth of many feet. Thick masses of this pulverised matter,
mixed with pumice-stone, were met with floating out at sea,
at a distance of 250 miles from the shore, greatly impeding
the progress of vessels. Cinders also fell in the north of
Portugal, 800 miles away.

Prom the 2Gth July to the 12th of August, 1591, a
succession of shocks occurred, during which Yilla Pranca
was again almost entirely destroyed by the falling in of its
houses. In the ruins of these many persons were killed.
The sea opposite this coast was much agitated, the motions
extending beneath its bed, in a westerly direction as far as
Terceira and Payal, where they were severely felt.

On the night of the 2nd of September, 1630, violent
tremors lasted for four hours, the villages of Ponta da
Gar9a and Povoa9ao, and again Yilla Pranca, being
in peril of general annihilation. Two hundred persons
lost their lives in these places, and many herds of cattle
perished. These convulsions were followed by eruptions
from some neighbouring cones, from which a compact mass
of lava flowed, forming a cliff on the shore some 100 yards
in length, and of great depth.

The cone which, in the valley of the Purnas, had
remained quiescent ever since 1563, again burst out, and
entirely desiccated the lake at its foot. This lake, before
the eruption, covered a space of three miles in circum-
ference, having a depth of about 100 feet. It is now filled

up with cinders, pumice-stone and scorise, and is known as
the Lagoa Secca, or the dry lake. This eruption was chiefly
remarkable for the volumes of ashes it sent forth, envelopino-
the island in an Egyptian darkness, greatly terrifying the
inhabitants. The impalpable dust covered the land in many
places to a de^Dth of from 5 to 17 feet, destroying all vegeta-
tion for the time being, but adding fertility to the soil
itself.

In Terceira the fall of ashes was so continuous and
alarming, that the inhabitants record the year in their
annals as " anno da cinza," or, the ash year.

In July of 1638, almost on the very spot where, just 100
years before, an eruption had broken out, and three miles
off the western coast, flames shot up, accompanied by
quantities of broken lava and cinders, forming an islet
which, at the expiration of twenty days, when the eruption
ceased, fell in and disappeared. This outburst was, as
usual, preceded by severe shocks of earthquake.

The 12th of September, 1652, was ushered in by serious
convulsions, the whole island labouring violently until the
19th, when two large cones, known as Paio and Joao
Ramos, on the southern coast, broke out, expelling much
lava and volumes of tuff.

Tremors were again felt in the latter end of 1682,
succeeded by another submarine eruption in the channel
bed between S. Miguel and Terceira.

In the middle of November, 1713, shocks were felt on the
north-west side of the island, concurrent with an overflow
of lava, near the village of Ginetes, which did little damage.
The earthquakes, however, destroyed many buildings in the
villages of Ginetes, Candelaria and Mosteiros, but no loss
of life was occasioned.

In 1719, the submarine crater, so active in 1538 and
1638, again broke out and formed an island ten miles in
circumference, which shortly afterwards subsided.

On the night of the 8th of December, 1720, a violent

earthquake was simultaneously felt in St. Michael and
Terceira, the channel between being shortly afterwards
illumined by immense sheets of ilame, proceeding from
another submarine eruption. This upheaval raised an island
which was gradually destroyed by the action of the waves.
On the cessation of the eruption it began to subside, and
three years afterwards nothing remained of it.

In 1755, shocks were again felt. The sea became visibly
agitated, and, rising to an unusual degree, threatened an
invasion of the low lands.

On the 26th of October, 1773, several serious earthquakes
were followed by a terrible storm which uprooted trees and
wrecked many houses.

In the year 1810 the Pico de Ginetes was again in
action, numerous shocks being at the same time felt in
various localities ; but little damage followed its incandescent
overflow.

The year 1811 was memorable for the occurrence of one
of the most interesting phenomena, perhaps, ever recorded
in the history of submarine volcanic eruptions in this archi-
pelago. The restless crater to the west of the island, and
about two miles off the Ponta da Ferraria, suddenly
electrified the inhabitants on the 1st of January by a tre-
mendous explosion, expelling huge stones to a height of
300 feet. This eruption gradually ceased, after forming
a dangerous shoal. An earthquake now followed, which
was felt all over the island, after which the eruption re-com-
menced with great vigour, breaking out, however, two and a
half miles west of the first site, and at a distance of one
mile from the shore opposite the Pico das Camarinhas (so
named from the berry-producing shrub, Corema alba),
until, on the 1 8th of June, the mouth of the crater was dis-
tinctly seen rising on the surface of the water, and attaining
a height, two days later, of 250 feet. It continued to
form until the 4th of July, when the overflow ceased, the
islet having then attained an altitude of 410 feet, and

more than 4,100 feet in circumference. Like all similar
structures previously thrown up, and consisting chiefly of
unconsolidated cinders and pumice stone, it subsided by
degrees, until, on the 15th of October, nothing of it was
visible, and only a shoal now remains to indicate the spot.

Ponta Delgada, and the country for twenty miles beyond,
was covered with cinders. This erupted islet was known by
the name of " Sabrina," from the British frigate of that
name, commanded by Captain Tillard, which happened to
arrive at S. Miguel at the time of the eruption. Captain
Tillard gave a very graphic account of the occurrence in the
*• Philosophical Transactions " for 1812.

He landed at Ponta Delgada on the 14th of June, and at
once made for the cliifs, rising to a height of 400 feet
opposite to the volcano, and, in his narrative, says that the
eruption occurred a short mile from the shore, throwing out
thick columns of smoke, alternating with successive showers
of the blackest cinders, ashes and stones, shot up in the
form of spires at angles of 10° to 20° from a perpendicular
line, attaining an altitude as much above the level of his eye
as the sea was below it.

During these bursts vivid flashes of flame continually
issued from the crater. In the dense masses of smoke were
a number of waterspouts. The part of the sea where the
volcano was situated was upwards of thirty fathoms deep,
and, at the time of Captain Tillard's viewing it, the volcano
was only four days old. Before he quitted the spot a com-
plete crater was formed above the water, not less than
20 feet high, its diameter being apparently about 400 or
500 feet.

"On the 4th of July," continues Captain Tillard, "I was
obliged to pass with the ship very close to the island, which
was now completely formed by the volcano, being about
eighty yards above the sea.

" At this time it was perfectly tranquil, which circum-
stance determined me to land and explore it more narrowly.

As we approaclied, we perceived that it was still smoking in
many parts. We found a narrow beach, of black ashes, from
which the side of the island rose, in general, too steep to
admit of onr ascending; and where we could have clambered
up, the mass of matter was much too hot to allow our pro-
ceeding more than a few yards in the ascent. The declivity
below the surface of the sea was equally steep, having
7 fathoms of water scarce the boat's length from the shore ;
and at the distance of 20 or 30 yards we sounded 25 fathoms.
From walking round it in about twelve minutes, I should
judge that it was something less than a mile in circum-
ference ; but the most extraordinary part was the crater,
the mouth of which, on the side facing St. Michael, was
nearly level with the sea. It was filled with water, at that
time boiling, and was emptying itself into the sea by a small
stream, about 6 yards over, and by which I should suppose
it was continuously filled again at high water. This stream,
close to the edge of the sea, was so hot as only to admit the
finger to be dipped suddenly in and taken out immediately.

"Within the crater was found the complete skeleton of a
guard fish, the bones of which, being perfectly burnt, fell to
pieces upon attempting to take them up, and, by the account
of the inhabitants on the coast of St. Michael, great num-
bers ot fish had been destroyed during the early part of the
eruption, as large quantities, probably suffocated or poisoned,
were occasionally found drifted into the small inlets or bays.
The island is composed principally of porous substances, and
generally burnt to complete cinders, with occasional masses
of stone."

Slight shocks were felt in the years 1849, '52, '53, '62,
and '82 ; but comparatively little damage was done.

On the 22nd December, 1884, two very severe earth-
quakes, closely following each other, were felt in the island,
the direction being west to east ; but fortunately without
serious effects. A few days later, Malaga and Granada,
and other places on the Spanish littoral, were severely

damaged by earthquakes, and the captain of the barqne
" Isabel," from Cadiz io New York, reported that on
December 18th, in lat. 38° 51', and long. 29° 55', those on
board felt a terrific earthquake, with thunderous submarine
roaring of an appalling character.

The contrast be ween the submarine eruptions and some
of those which have occurred on land is remarkable ; in the
former no solid combination, such as lava, seems to have
been emitted, which might have given permanency and
consistency to the structures raised ; but, on the contrary,
volumes of pumice, ashes, and arenaceous trap, formed an
incoherent mass, which, constantly acted upon by a choppy
sea, soon became undermined and scattered.

The theory has often been propounded that St. Michael
originally formed two separate islands long before its dis-
covery, the division occurring in the centre, between Ponta
Delgada and Capellas, and that the narrow space between
was filled up by the eruptions of Serra Grorda and other
volcanoes. The chief argument against this supposition
probably lies in the fact, that this very portion of the
island exhibits, perhaps, stronger evidence than any other,
that the waters of a tumultuous sea once covered the
land.

Along the road from the city to Capellas there are deep
banks and extensive pockets of perfectly clean gravel, mixed
here and there with rounded pebbles, differing both in
character and placement from the ejeda of aerial
eruptions.

The soil too, on either side of the road, is deep and free
from the mantle of lava which the above theory would lead
one to expect.

In Fayal, and most of the other islands, are also found
immense masses of similar gravel, singularly free from ashes,
pumice, and other volcanic products, and which could only
have been washed and deposited in their present positions
by the action of a violent sea.

From careful research amongst the records of volcanic
eruptions in St. Michael from the earliest times, I have been
unable to trace any clear evidence of land having been
raised in the island during any of these convulsions, although
Hooke mentions that this occurred in 1591 ; undoubtedly
the breadth of the island has from time to time been
increased by flows of lava into the sea, forming shoals and
solidifying over them, and this has especially happened
in the neighbourhood of Ribeira Grande on the north side,
and at places between Povoacao and Villa Franca on the
south. In Terceira, however, the evidence as to a gradual
but distinct upheaval is beyond question, for in 1581 the
bay of Saiga and that of Mos were sufficiently deep to admit
several large " naos " or battle ships, from which were
landed 400 Spaniards who sought to deliver the island to
Philip II., and, at the second named place. Prince Antonio,
in July of the following year, sailed into the port with
several large ships of war, from which he landed
1,000 men — facts which prove that at that time these were
commodious and spacious harbours, which now are so
shallow as to barely admit small boats in fair and calm
weather. On the other hand. Padre d'Andrade, in his
" Topographia of Terceira," published in 1843, mentions
some curious facts as to the subsidence of considerable
portions of land near Villa da Praia. Terceira had been
free from volcanic disturbance from its first discovery to
the 17th April, 1761, when a serious overflow of lava
occurred at a place near Pico da Bagacina. On the
24th May, 1614, however, a terrible earthquake had almost
destroved Villa da Praia ; the foreshore subsided, the sea
now covering the site of what were once cultivated fields,
and on which stood many dwelling houses, the walls of which
were then (1843) still discernable at low tide.

At another site, known as " Paul do Cabo da Praia,"
the subsidence was also considerable, comprising cultivated
lands and woods within the points of Sant^ Catherina and

Espirito Santo, on wliicli were many edifices, the site of
the old road leading to the Cabo da Praia was pointed out
under the waves.

Villa da Praia was again destroyed by the earthquakes
of 24th June, 1800, and 26th January, 1801, and lastly on
the 15th June, 1841, when it was reduced to a mountain of
ruins at a time when the town numbered over 3,000
inhabitants.

Before concluding this chapter it would be well to con-
sider the Fauna and Flora of these islands in relation to
their occurrence in other countries.

In analysing the various groups of Azorean animals and
plants, excepting mammalia, reptilia, and amphibia, which
are unrepresented, and excluding fresh-water fish, nocturnal
lepidoptera, mosses, and hepaticse, Mr. Grodman thus
numerically distributes thern —

Aves

Diurnal lepidoptera . .

Coleoptera

Land and fresh- water i

Mollusca . . )

Plants

Percentage of

Species Common

to the Azores and

■i^

o .

■*a to

2 o

"Sj

'f*

r5 N

• •

212

480

62i

1 American
1 American
3 American

5 American and
African.

Owing to the close relationship between the botany of
the Azores and that of the south of Europe and north of
Africa, many hypothetical speculations have been hazarded
respecting the former connection of this archipelago and
those of Madeira and the Canaries with the neighbouring
continents. How far these islands, which (if we take the
evidences presented by Santa Maria) probably belong to the
Miocene age, received European contributions to their flora,
of plants whose structure lend themselves to aerial or
oceanic dispersion, or by means of wandering icebergs during

tlie Glacial period — the only mode of plant distribution
which would seem to explain the presence of certain allied
species in distant and unaccountable localities — it is
impossible to say ; but the undoubted volcanic origin of these
islands, the absence of any terrestrial mammalia or reptiles
except those imported by man, and the knowledge gained as
to the platform upon which they rest by the investigations
of the " Challenger " expedition, coupled with their great dis-
tance from the nearest masses of land, and the depth of the
intervening seas, would appear to suffice for dismissing the
theory of a previous mainland connection, and that the
Azores are essentially what Mr. Darwin calls " ocean islands."
The soundings and observations taken by the expedition
show that the Azores (the highest point of which, Pico,
rises from the level of its ocean bed a height of 16,206 feet
and 7,613 feet above sea level) including the Madeira group,
Canaries, Cape Yerd, &c., are the topmost cusps of a vast
submerged mountain ridge extending from Greenland in the
north, and intersecting the Atlantic into two abyssal depths
to a distance south beyond the island of Tristan d'Acunha.
This longitudinal chain has been compared to the Andes of
South America, both in its elevation and volcanic character,
and presents a connected range of gigantic volcanoes
whose highest cones pierce the clouds from Iceland to
Teneriffe.

Writing upon this subject. Sir Charles Lyell says :
" The general abruptness of the cliffs of all the Atlantic
islands, coupled with the rapid deepening of the sea outside
the 100-fathom line, are characters which favour the opinion
that each island was formed separately by igneous eruptions,
and in a sea of great depth." More recent researches have
confirmed that opinion.

" From the parallel of 55° N. latitude, at all events
to the equator, we have on either side of the Atlantic a
depression 600 or 700 miles in width, averaging 15,000 feet
in depth. These two valleys are separated by the modern

volcanic plateau of the A yores. It does not seem to ns to
be at all probable that any general oscillations have taken
place in the northern hemisphere, sufficient either to form
these immense abysses, or, once formed, to convert them into
dry land.""^

This expression, '^ modern volcanic plateau," must be
understood as geologically recent, and not as implying that the
islands were thrown up within historic times, for all surface
evidence of the Glacial period has by no means been effaced,
and their formation makes it certain that they existed seons
prior to the Reign of Cold which geologists compute occurred
some eighty millions of years ago — a lapse of time the mind
can scarcely grasp.

Depths of the Sea,"' by Sir C. WyVillc ThomsOii.

Chapter VIII.

PoxTA Delgada — History of the Town — Description — The Harbour and
Breakwater — The Quarries of Saxta Clara — Shipping — Commerce —
Imports and Exports — Oranges — History of the Fruit — Its Trade —
Various Fruit and Cereals — Forest Trees — Orange Gardens — Tea Plant —

Pineapples — Climatic Features, &c.

So sweet the air, so moderate the clime,

None sickly lives, or dies before his time ;

Heaven sure has kept this spot of earth

To show how all things were created first uncurst I

Waller.

Dating from the first arrival of the colonists, Ponta Delgada
remained subject to Yilla Franca during- some 50 years,
but frequent disputes arising between the inhabitants for
the supremacy of their respective places, those of Ponta
Delgada petitioned the king for freedom, and, in 1499,
obtained the coveted emancipation. Subsequentl}^, when
Villa Franca was destroyed by earthquakes, the seat of
government was definitely centered in Ponta Delgada, the
town being raised by John III. in 1546 to the dignity of
city, and it has ever since remained the capital of the island,
and now possesses a population of close upon 20,000. In
1582, Philip I. granted it the same privileges as enjoyed by
Oporto, and it ranks as the third city of Portugal in point
of importance. The success of her fortunate rival proved
a lasting blow to the prosperity of Yilla Franca, and for
long afterwards much enmity rankled in the feelings of
her inhabitants.

Built on a talus, or gently sloping plain, situated on the
western end of a shallow bay on the south of the island,
formed by Delgada Poijit on one side and Galera Point on
the east, and set in a frame with a background of rich and

'" '<v-„

-:R in course of construction at PONTA DEL(3ADA. (Taken from a Photograph)

aboiiiidiiig vegetation, Ponta Delgada presents a remarkably
picturesque appearance viewed from the sea, with its
numerous churclies, convents and white-washed buildings
gleaming in the benison of a generous sunshine ; it extends
east and west for a distance of about two miles, covering a
breadth of about a mile and a quarter.

The town is badlj placed for purposes of commerce, its
open roadstead affording little or no protection to vessels
from the prevalent south-east and south-westerly gales.
This drawback, however, is being rapidly remedied by the
construction of a very commodious breakwater, which,
when completed, will effectually make this the safest harbour
of refuge in the A9ores.

A decree of the Cortes of the 9th August, 1860,
authorised the commencement of this important work,
towards which the Government allowed 10 per cent, of the
revenues of the Custom House of Ponta Delgada to be
appropriated, and imposed a tax of lOd. upon every box of
oranges exported, also 1| per cent, ad valorem upon all
imports or exports. Prom all of which, and the Government
contributions, some £18,000 per annum was derived for some
years, and expended upon the works every year.

As the tax of lOd. per box, which in good average
seasons amounted to £12,460, weighed heavily upon the
orange growers, it was reduced in 1878 to 3d., and the
special ad valorem duty increased to 3 per cent. In 1879-80,
owing to the diminished orange production, the tax was
again reduced to l|d. per flat box, barely bringing in
£1,068 per annum, but in June of 1884 the ad valorem duty
was reduced to 1 per cent., and the tax on the export of
oranges altogether abolished. In 1832 a decree was issued
by the Lisbon Government, providing that the surplus
income of the suppressed religious orders in the A9ores,
after defraying the trifling expenses of maintenance of the
expelled members, who, from age or infirmities, were unable
to support themselves, should be applied to the bettering of

the various liarbonrs of the three islands of S. Miguel,
Terceira and Fajal. These amounts, which in the
aggregate reached very considerable sums, would have
very materially contributed to the improvement of the
ports, without encroaching upon the pockets of the islanders,
but the coffers of the Government being empty, this decree
was, upon some pretext or another, set aside, and the
Michaelenses forced to provide most of the money requisite
for the construction of their breakwater, upon which over
£450,000 has already been spent, and it is estimated that
the work will cost £600,000 before completion.

The works were commenced on the 28th October, 1862,
upon the plan originally designed by Mr. John Scott
Tucker, C.E., but subsequently modified by the late Sir John
Eennie. For some years past they have been under the
entire direction of native engineers, controlled by a com-
mittee of management.

This important work consists of a mole formed of loose
blocks of basalt, of which considerably over two million
tons have already been employed ; the length of this wall is
now nearly 2,000 feet at low water, and it already shelters
some 48,000 square yards of space against all winds, with
varying depths of from 6 to 30 feet, within which about 46
vessels can at present be accommodated in lines, as follows :

LINES.

First line, at entrance of Port

Second line

Third line

Fourth line

Fifth line

Sixth line

Six lines

Draught of Water.

14 to
12
10
10

20 feet
18 „
17
14
10
8

5 to 20 feet.

The entrance is E.S.E. and at present is 443 feet wide,
and varies gradually in depth from north to south from 18

to 40 feet. When completed in its projected entirety,
the breakwater-wall will extend for 2,800 feet, and will
shelter some 93,000 yards of space, capable of accommo-
dating 100 vessels of all dimensions and draught.

It is accessible at all times, except during a south-
easterly gale, and is in lat. 37° 45' 10'', long. 25° 41' 30" W.
of Greenwich.

Loading and unloading is at present carried on by means
of lighters, but vessels will presently be able to get alongside
the quays now in course of construction, and which will
have an extension of 1,G40 feet, with varying depths of
from 9 to 19 feet at low water.

The rise of tide is 7^ feet.

The mooring and unmooring of ships is carried out by
practised pilots, who receive their instructions from the
captain of the port.

Within the breakwater is a wooden floating dock, capable
of raising vessels of 1,200 tons, and there are also ample
workshops where repairs requiring foundry and smiths'
work can be well and expeditiously carried out. A body of
trained divers also exists, and a steam tug for the service of
vessels.

From 350 to 375 ships, of from 87,000 to 110,000 tons,
annually frequent the port, and the number is increasing as
its capabilities become better known.

Careful observations have shewn that, prior to the con-
struction of this great work, there were 41 days of
interruption of communication with the shore in the winter
time, and nine in the summer ; its existence, therefore, is
an inestimable boon, not only to the island, but to shipping
interests at la.rge — as it has effectually done away with the
nom emjpeste this and the other islands were known by.

On the breakwater wall stands a harbour light, visible
at a considerable distance out at sea, which will ultimately be
permanently placed at the head of the mole. The system
adopted is to run out wooden scaffolding some 30 feet in

length, througli which huge blocks of stone, some of them
weighing from six to eight tons each, are thrown into the
sea, until the slope is in the proportion of six at the
foundation to one in height, and the desired breadth, and
inclination has been attained.

These blocks are obtained from the quarries of Santa
Clara, about a mile off, and conveyed by a narrow gauge
railway, which runs from the quarries along the whole
length of the mole. This basalt is extremely hard and has
hitherto withstood the action of the heavy winter seas
surprisingly well. It has been observed that the requisite
inclination of the slope can only be properly attained by the
action of the waves during stormy weather ; of course,
portions of the end work are every winter carried away, but
where the incline has been established, the resistance is
perfect. The power of each wave striking against the
breakwater wall is estimated to represent a force in the
roughest weather varying from one-and-a-half to two or
even three tons to the square foot. As these waves recur
several thousand times during the twenty-four hours, it is
astonishing that greater damage is not sustained by the
works in progress every winter.

The quantity of stone which will probably be absorbed
in this great work will not fall far short of four million tons.

The progressive movement of the port may be better
gathered from the following figures : —

In 1881, the entries of vessels possessing a tonnage of
14,168 numbered 150; 49 steamers of 51,396 tons; 76
ocean-going vessels of 20,746 tons, and 75 casual steamers
of 77,501 tons.

In 1882, the entries of vessels with a tonnage of 12,511
numbered 148 ; 47 steamers of 49,425 tons ; 83 ocean-going
vessels of 25,274 tons ; and 68 casual steamers of 68,691 tons.

In 1883, the entries of vessels with a tonnage of 10,864,
numbered 134; 46 steamers of 49,013 tons; 72 ocean-going
vessels of 22,572 tons, and 70 casual steamers of 83,316 tons.

The wreck returns show Vj very satisfactory decrease.
Ill 1850-52, the number of vessels wrecked at S. Miguel
amounted to 8 ; from 1853 to 1855, 2 ; from 1856 to 1858,
11 ; from 1859 to 1861, 9 ; from 1862 to 1864, 7 ; from 1865
to 1867, 8 ; from 1868 to 1870, 2 ; from that time to the
present no disaster of the kind, arising from bad weather
alone J has been recorded.

On the 1st October, 1880, during the first equinoctial
gale which swept these isles from the S.W., three steamers
that had put in for coals, the " Robinia," " Benalla," and
" Stag," all closely and badly moored at the entrance of the
breakwater, were wrecked ; the cause, however, was
attributed to defective mooring, the harbour pilot being
held to blame. A sudden shift of wind coming on caused
the first-named steamer to bumj) against the " Benalla,"
sinking her immediately ; the same steamer then swung
across the bows of the " Stag," which caused her to founder
and the latter, riding up and down on the sunken wreck,
became so damaged that her captain hauled her as far
ashore as possible, when she settled. Of these, the " Benalla "
was successfully raised by private enterprise, and now
trades between Portugal and the United States ; the other
two were broken up.

The harbour works have been carried on in the face of
considerable drawbacks ; not only have large portions been
carried away by heavy seas every successive winter, but the
decadence of the productions and trade of the island has of
recent years thrown the onus of construction and expen-
diture almost entirely upon the Lisbon Government. The
Portuguese, therefore, who are accused of being the
only people who build ruins, deserve no slight meed of
praise for their patient persistence in a work almost beyond
their powers, and it is to be hoped that in course of time,
when the prejudice against the port has been dispelled
and its security fully recognised, they may be amply
rewarded.

Unliappily, the submarine cable, that greatest of
civilising agencies, has not yet linked these islands with the
Old and New World. When this shall have been effected,
these will become important points of call for both home-
ward and outward-bound vessels.

Owing to the small area they occupy, the commerce of
these islands must necessarily be restricted ; nevertheless,
until the oi'dium destroyed the vines, and the orange blight
threatened the staple export, it was both remunerative and
progressive.

The custom-house returns show that 284 ships entered
the harbour in 1883 : of these 120 were steamers, the rest
sailing vessels. 146 were Portuguese, 99 English and the
rest other nationalities. A few sailing vesssels and three
steamers of 1,000 tons burden, chiefly engaged in the fruit
trade, are owned in the island, as are also in great part
the two mail steamers running to and fro from Lisbon.
Efforts have been made of late to divert some of the trade to
Germany and the United States; New York and Boston, try-
ing hard to supplant Manchester and Sheffield in the supply
of cottons and hardware, but hitherto with but slight
success, and the chief exports of the island, must, from a
variety of circumstances, continue to be divided between
Portugal and Great Britain, to which countries exports
were, but a few years back made to the annual value of
from £144,000 to £160,000; the imports being far in
excess of these figures and ranging from £182,000 to
£224,000.

The imports consist chiefly of manufactured cotton and
woollen goods, silks, colonial produce, salt, iron, coal,
timber, hardware, &c. ; the exports, of some 45,000 quarters
of corn, maize, beans, and haricots, tobacco, pozzolana,
oranges, pineapples, spirits, &c., &c. The customs revenue
for the twelve years from 1860-61 to 1883-84, averaged
£48,890. Although, as we have seen, the mother country
and England divide between them the j)i"oduce of this

archipelago, ifc was only in May of 1882 that Great Britain,
in the matter of duties, was allowed to import her manu-
factures " on the most favored nation ^' tariff, France
having, ever since 18G6 enjoyed much greater immunity in
this respect. This concession was only wrung from Portugal
at the expense of the abrogation of the Treaty of 1842,
which exempted from taxation British subjects resident in
the country. It was but in 1885 that the law of cabotage was
modified in favour of foreign vessels, which may now (with
the exception of the ports of Angola and Cape de Verd)
convey every kind of merchandise throughout the
Portuguese Colonial possessions, and between them and
the mother country.

In 1876-77 there commenced that general failure of
crops, which has recurred every year with more or less
intensity to the present time, causing a complete stagnation
in trade, and reducing numbers of families dependent upon
the produce of their lands to considerable straits. How
serious this diminuation of crops has been upon the general
trade of the island, may be gathered from the following
figures: —

The total exports for the years 1861-62 to 1875-76
amounted to £2,508,476, the imports for the same period to
£2,261,912, showing an annual excess of exports over
imports of £16,437.

Prom 1876-77 to 1878-79 the total exports amounted
to £330,466, and the respective imports to £472,930, showing
an excess of imports over exports of £14.2,464 during that
period. At the present time, these figures are reduced to
little more than half ; the imports, however, being far in
excess of exports.

The average receipts on account of imposts and taxes of
the district of Ponta Delgada for the 13 years from 1870-71
to 1882-83, amounted to £88,288, and the average expenses
for the same period of administration, &c., to £67,640,
leaving an average annual surplus of £20,648.

Small as this amount was, it, however, paid an income
tax or contribuicdo predial to the Government of £23,928 ;
the total annual average sum paid into the coffers of the
State by the island of St. Michael alone amounts to
£84,567, or nearly half the public revenue of the island,
which latter reaches in the average £182,000 per annum.

In 1884 the total revenue of landed property in the
island for purposes of assessment was estimated at
£205,590, on which a tax of £16,876 was imposed.

In 1871 we find this valuation reduced to £194,376, and
the tax to jgl5,842.

In 1877 the rateable value was again assessed at £169,278
and the tax further reduced to .£18,350.

Since then the decrease in the value of property has
been even more sensible, and estates, if put up at auction,
barely realise one-fourth of what they did five years ago.

St. Michael presents an area of 224 square miles, or
148,860 acres, of which 100,000 consist of forest lands,
lakes, dwellings, &c. The immense fertility of the soil may,
therefore, be gathered from the fact that from the remaining
48,860 acres are produced the large quantities of oranges
and some 84,000 quarters of grain and pulse of all kinds
annually raised. This inexhaustible fertility is probably
due to the phosphoric acid, potash and other fertilising
properties held in a state of tenuity favourable for assimila-
tion, contained in the volcanic sands and detritus, which are
for ever being transported by serial and pluvial agency over
the land.

In the good old times the yearly rental of the land
amounted to £150,000, but the present estimate barely
reaches half that figure.

One of the most favourite systems of land tenure in
Portugal, and consequently in these islands, was — and in
some parts still is — that known as the Emprazamento,
aforamento, or more commonly, the emphyteutic, or per-
petual leasehold. The rent may either be paid in

kind at the end of each successive crop, or in cash at
the end of each determined year; this rent is fixed and
unalterable.

These leases, or prazos, are hereditary, but the property,
however extensive, must be held by one single tenant, unless
the owner of the fee-simple previously consents to its being-
sub-divided.

These leaseholds may be bought and sold, or even mort-
gaged, but in the former case the senhorio or freeholder
has always the right or option of redeeming the lease, and
the tenant, on the other hand, of buying the senhorio, should
the freeholder wish to sell. On the sale of one of these
aforamentos the vendor pays to his senhorio a tax of five per
cent on the amount of sale.

The prosperity of the Minho Province in Portugal has
been attributed by Mr. Consul Crawford to land being-
parcelled out among small tenants on the above system and
therefore carefully cultivated.

Other land tenures there are, such as the allodial or
freehold, the censo or limited leasehold, the quinhao or part
interest in the produce only of any indivisible estate vested
in one of several co-proprietors, the direito de compascuo or
communal right of property belonging to divers proprietors
or parishes. This last has proved a fruitful source of
litigation in the neighbouring island of Terceira, where
serious disturbances periodically arise through the peasantry
imagining their communal rights to be infringed.

In the early days of orange culture in S. Michael's, the
majority of gardens were transferred on the emphyteutic
system,to tenants who agreed to pay from 6|000 (£1. 1 s. 6d.) to
8$000 (£1. 8s. 7d.) and 9§000 or £1. 12s. 2d. per alqueire^ of

♦ In describing the extent of a field or quinta, the Portuguese use the term
alqueire, 60 of which make a moyo, 5-16 alqueires being equal to one English acre.
The alqiieire is also a dry measure, and holds one peck, three quarts, and one pint.
60 of these alqueires equal a moyo of grain.

orange-planted land. In those days eacli alqueire produced
on an average 10 large boxes of oranges, each containing
800 oranges, and which returned the grower an average of
3$000 (10s. Pd.) ; now, however, so depreciated has both
produce and value become, that his alqueire of land only
yields him 5 large boxes, and his average net profit is
barely 1§400 (5s.) per large box, or 7?000 (£1. 5s.) per
alqueire, leaving him a dead loss on his rental from which
he cannot free himself, of from l.|000 (3s. 7d.) to 2|000
(7s. 3d.) per alqueire. Verily, Portugal is much in need of
a new Land Act.

If the cultivation of the orange is no longer remunerative,
it is a satisfaction to find that the profits derived from cereal
growing will return the farmer from 45 to 50 per cent, on
the capital employed in good average seasons, notwith-
standing the high rent paid. The Azorean farmer would
appear from this to be the happiest of mortals, but the
passion of these islanders for agricultural pursuits makes
them keen competitors for any scrap of land that may be
offered, and it is seldom that a man can get hold of more
than from 3 to 12 alqueires at a time, yet from the produce of
such patches as these he will maintain a numerous family.

Cost of cultivating one alqueire of land at 6$000 yearly
rental : —

Receipts, 30 alqueires maize at 400 Rs. 12.000
Fodder for animals . . . . 800

12.800

Expenses, manure and cost of lupin . . Rs. 2.500
Seed . . . . . . . . 360

Ploughing, sowing, gathering 1.800

4.660

Amount left after paying expenses . . 8.140

Rent .. .. .. .- .. 6.000

Profit ,, .. Rs. 2.140

The productiveness of this volcanic soil is truly astonish-
ing. One alqueire of land will return regularly 20 alqueires of
wheat, 30 of maize, and 50 of broad beans ; in some instances
even 62 of the latter, after which they get another late
crop of maize. Wheat is hardly ever cultivated now, owing
to the uncertainty of the seasons, and tendency to degenerate
of the seed. Haricots, which a few years back, were one of
the chief articles of food of the poor, are not now much
grown, owing to the aphis blight, which of late years has
attacked the plant.

Maize is what the islanders chiefly turn their attention
to, and is cultivated sufficiently for home consumption and
export .

Commercial intercourse between the Acores and Great
Britain dates from a remote period, for we find English
vessels coming here in the middle of the 17th century for
cargoes of a blue granulated dye, made of the woad or
pastel plant {Isatis tinctoria. Linn.) This trade, of great
importance to the islands at that time, gradually died away,
being unable to compete with the cheaper East Indian
indigo produce, which contains 30 times as much indigo
blue as the woad, not a single plant of which is now to be
found on any of the islands.

In 1 747 four boxes of lemons shipped to England seem
to have proved a happy venture, for these were followed by
130 boxes two years later ; the trade steadily increased
during the following 50 years, until five to seven thousand
boxes were annually exported ; but shipments ceased entirely
in 1838, owing to more regular supplies from other
countries.

The first exports of oranges were made in 1751, when
four boxes were sent in a sailing vessel to Cork. From this
period the cultivation of the orange tree seems to have been
systematically carried on, for in 1802 nearly 40,000 boxes of
oranges were shipped to London alone.

Until about eight years ago, an average of 500,000 boxes,

each containing from 350 to 400 oranges, was annually sent
to the English markets from S. Miguel alone, and
represented the staple export of the island. The present
shipments, however, barely reach one quarter of the former
production, and the islanders are anxiously asking them-
selves whether the enormous and increasing quantities
which pour into the English markets from the Mediterranean
ports of Spain, Sicily, and Portugal, will not, as in the case
of Terceira and Fayal, altogether extinguish their trade.
The St. Michael orange, however (of first quality) has no
European rival, and must ever be pre-eminent for the fine-
ness of its quality, and surpassing sapidity.

" The gardens of the Hesperides, with the golden apples,
were believed to exist in some island in the ocean, or, as it
was sometimes thought, in the islands of the north or west
coast of Africa. As to the origin of these precious golden
apples, there is a myth which says that among the deities
who attended the marriage ceremony of Zeus and Hera,
bringing various presents with them, was Titoea, a goddess
of the earth, whose gift consisted in her causing a tree to
spring up with golden apples on it. The care of this tree,
which highly pleased the newly-wedded pair, was entrusted
to the Hesperides, but as they could not resist the tempta-
tion to pluck and eat its fruit, it became necessary to place
the serpent Ladon to watch it. Hercules, among his other
adventures, slew this serpent and carried off some of the
apples.""^

The Hesperides were seven beautiful sisters, daughters of
Atlas, who bore the world on his shoulders, and Hesperis a
personification of the "region of the west.'' In this legend
is supposed to occur the first mention of the orange tree,
and if its existence in the islands of the blest more than three
thousand years ago can be reasonably accepted, then its
introduction at a very early period into northern Africa and

* " Manual of Mythology." Murray.

south-eastern Europe, tlience even to the East, its supposed
habitat, can be readily accounted for.

The chronicler of Vasco da Gama's famous voyage, in
1498, says that the ship S. Eaphael, running- aground to
the south of Mombaca on the east coast of Africa, was
surrounded by many natives in boats, who brought a great
quantity of oranges for barter, '' much better than those of
Portugal," showing that a variety of the fruit already
existed in the country prior to 1498.

The earliest mention of oranges in the Azores is made
in the will of one Joao Correa, who died at Agualva in
Terceira, in December, 1524, wherein he leaves to each of
his four children "three orange trees in his orchard of
Agualva."

Fructuoso, who died in 1591, mentions in a garden at
Rosto de Cao 107 orange trees, many of which existed as late
as 1830, when they were killed by the " lagrima " disease.
The first orange tree from China was brought into Portugal
about 1635 by D. Francisco de Mascarenhas, who sent it,
via Goa, to his garden of Xabregas, near Lisbon. So great
was the desire amongst cultivators, both in Portugal and
abroad, to obtain plants from this tree, that a special decree,
dated 30th January, 1671, prohibited the export from the
country of plants from this parent tree under penalty of
100 cruzados, captains of vessels being fined in a like sum
if found conveying such trees out of the country.

In course of time the China variety entirely superseded
the old orange of Portugal, which could not, however, have
been so very inferior, for Cainoens thus sings its praises: —

The orange, here, exhales a perfume rare,

And boasts the golden hue of Daphne's hair,

Near to the ground each spreading bough descends ;

Beneath her yellow load the citron bends.

The fragrant lemon scents the shady grove.

Fair as when, ripening for the days of love.

The virgin's breasts the gentle sigh avow ;

So the twin fruitage swell on every bough.

G 2

Pico, which, at one time was densely covered with
timber of large size, and supplied the other islands with
valuable wood, also boasted of a very fine variety of orange,
which Linschoten (writing about 1589) thus describes : —
"It (Pico) hath the pleasantest and savorest oranges that
are throughout all Portugal, so that they are brought into
Terceira for a j)resent, as being there very much esteemed,
and in my judgment they are the best that ever I tasted in
any place.''

From the aurantiacese family spring the various species
known as the common orange {Citrus aurantium), the bitter
or Seville orange (0. higaradea), the bergamot, so famous
in perfumery (C. hergamia) ; the lemon {Cilrus limonium) ;
the citron (0. medica Lin., C. cidra gallesis) ; the shaddock
(0. decumana) : the lime, of which there are sweet and
bitter varieties (0. limetta) ; to which we may add the
tangerine, a variety of the mandarin orange (0. nohilis
Loureiro) .

The orange is subdivided into an infinity of varieties
too numerous to specify, the result of climatic and other
conditions.

According to Lindlay, however, there are 15 distinct
species with a few varieties ; Steudel enumerating 25,
besides numberless varieties; and Risso, in his work on
the orange, gives 43 species and varieties of the sweet
orange, 32 of the bitter, 59 bergamots, 8 of limes, 6 of
shaddocks, 46 of lemons, and 17 of citrons. All these
belong to one genus, the Citrus of Linnaeus.

The orange appears to have been well known to the
Romans, for on the walls of a room in an excavated villa,
near the Porta del Popolo, was found the painting of a
grove of orange trees, in excellent preservation.

In England the tree was apparently first introduced by
a member of the Carew family, who for more than a century
continued its cultivation at Beddington, in Surrey.

Nothing can exceed the luxuriant growth of the tree in

these latitudes, although in every one of the islands there
is a perceptible difference in quality and appearance of the
fruit. This is the more remarkable, as they all present the
same apparent conditions of soil and temperature. It has
been observed that the orange tree will only properly thrive
on a coast zone within reach of the saline particles with
which the air in such localities is charged ; a volcanic soil
too, would seem to change the character of the fruit,
imparting to it a more delicate flavour. The Valencia
orange, which differs so much both in appearance and
flavour from that of St. Michael, loses its characteristics
when transplanted to this soil, and in course of time
becomes identical with the island fruit.

Formerly the St. Michael orange was grown entirely
from "pips," and took about 15 years to attain maturity.
The fruit of these trees was luscious in the extreme, with
rinds no thicker than a wafer, and not the vestige of a seed,
but the high prices obtained for it in England induced the
owners of " quintas " to graft on a large scale ; so that from
one of these seed-grown trees twenty others were obtained,
the fruit of which was never comparable to that of the
parent tree.

There are several modes of propagating the tree in the
A9ores, the most favourite of which are the following : —

A likely branch for a future tree having been found, a
truss of straw two feet long is securely tied round it, the
branch is then barked for about an inch high all round and
sifted earth carefully filled in below and above the wounded
part until the truss assumes the shape and size of a large
pine-apple, the straw is then fastened at the top and the
operation is complete ; in three weeks' time the barked
portion commences to throw out rootlets and in seven
months the branch, now fully rooted, can be sawn off and
planted out ; in a year or two it will commence to bear
fruit.

Another system is to peg down the lower branches of

the tree and graft in the ordinary way, these trees also fruit
in a short time.

Large numbers of trees may be obtained by budding
seedlings, but these take longer before fruiting. All the
Citrus varieties are periodically assailed b}^ blights and
parasites which seem peculiar to them, and which have
brought destruction upon many a flourishing plantation.

When the Spaniards, in 1512, made Florida one of their
colonies (which they held for two centuries and a half) they
introduced the orange tree from Spain, and the coantry,
bathed by the moist and temperate breezes of the Atlantic
on one side and the Gulf of Mexico on the other, favoured
its development in a high degree ; it spread far and wide
until attacked in course of time by the Aspidiota concJiiformis,
a minute grey-coloured parasite of the Coccus family, which,
appearing in myriads, soon sapped its life, withering
thousands of trees.

An American gentleman, who had settled in S. Miguel
about the beginning of the century, and who was conspicuous
for his love of horticulture, introduced a few trees of the
far-famed Florida orange into the island in 1835, and with
them, unhappily, the then quite unknown insect. In a few
years its ravages became so serious that many of the old
trees were destroyed, and as it adheres to the bark by the
whole of its ventral surface, it was only by persistently
scraping and whitewashing the trunks and branches, and
uprooting the trees specially affected, that an ascendancy
was obtained over the pest. It is impossible, however, to
extirpate it entirely, and in 1842 it was also discovered at
Fayal, and soon spread to the other islands. I have often
found it in apple orchards in England, where it has been
introduced from the St. Michael oranges imported into the
country ; but the severe cold in winter prevents its increasing
to any extent. This insect is also common in the whole of
South America. Another scourge of the orange tree, now
common in some parts of the Mediterranean board, appeared

in S. Miguel some 40 years ago in tlie form of a dise^t.
supposed to have its seat in the roots of the tree. The ba .^
woukl crack and emit a reddish and glutinous exudatio^y
which the Portuguese call " lagrimas," or tears. t

In a short time the tree was weakened and dried, but not
before imparting its disease to the neighbouring ones.
Energetic steps were at once adopted to stamp out the evil,
and in 1840 nearly one-third of the trees in the island were
rooted up, fortunately with signal success, for the blight,
although never entirely disappearing, ceased in a great
measure.

An apparently identical disease has recently attacked
the chestnut {Gastanea vesca) and the pine tree [Finns
maritirna), resisting all attempts at suppression. The late
Mr. James Hinton, the eminent surgeon, had recently
visited the island and taken this matter up in his usual
energetic manner; but his untimely death unhapjjily
deprived the islanders of the benefit of his scientific
researches.

In North Carolina huge tracts of pine forest were, 20 or
30 years ago, entirely destroyed by an insect plague, but
here no visible cause for the decay of the tree is discerned.
The fig trees, which here attain immense proportions,
have of recent years been attacked by a fine longicorn
beetle [Tceniotes sealaris or farinosus) common to Brazil,
whence it is supposed to have been accidently introduced.

The larva of this insect completely honeycombs the trunk
of the tree, which in course of time ceases to bear fruit.
This beetle is now established all over St. Michael's, and,
I believe, the other islands as well.

These islands have seldom been visited by insect plagues
other than those already mentioned, and the Sphinx convolvulis
or potato insect, and the ordinary apis blights ; but it is on
record that on the 16th November, 1884, vast swarms of the
red locust [Acrydium migratorium) were driven by a gale of
wind from off the African coast on to the islands of St.

the iiaePs, Terceira, Fajal, San Jorge, Graciosa and Madeira,
in p jhe astonishment and dismay of their inhabitants.

After resting for a while and apparently doing little
se. amage — for the crops had not yet begun to show above
f ground — the invading hosts, as if with one accord, left the
- islands.

In 1877 a formidable disease, hitherto entirely unknown,
appeared amongst the orange trees in certain parts of the
island, more especially in the south, and in the quintas
around Ponta Delgada. The trees will present every
promise of an abundant harvest, but just as the fruit is
about to turn it falls to the ground upon the slightest
breeze in alarming quantities, and, if shipped to England,
the first pickings especially will, with diflB.culty, withstand
the voyage ; a curious brown decay spreading in a ring from
the stem to the centre of the sphere, destroying a large
proportion of this evidently blighted, or as they call it in
Pudding Lane, " blind " fruit.

There is no mildew, parasite or indication of any sort,
beyond, after a time, a yellow and sere appearance of the
tree, and occasionally a viscid secretion at the extremities to
mark the presence of disease, and its origin is as yet obscure.
Its true cause is probably to be found in some peculiar
atmospheric condition, possibly in the absorption by the tree
of an overplus of moisture, combined with the exhaustion of
the soil after ages of culture.

A disease, having the same characteristics, first appeared
in Portugal in 1853 and raged until 1860, destroying
numerous plantations in the districts around Lisbon,
Santarem, Coimbra, and S. Mamede de Eiba-Tua, where the
finest oranges were at that time produced.

The trees in Madeira, then an important orange-exporting
country, were similarly attacked and ruined.

Bermudas, where the cultivated orange was once so
plentiful, was attacked in 1854 by one of numerous coccida^
the enemy, par excellence, of the orange. The symptoms of

an attacked tree were very similar to those of trees in St.
Micliael's, afflicted by the mysterious '^ molestia," and in a
few years every plantation in Bermudas was destroyed by
its ravages ; here, however, there is no insect, and the blight
has every appearance of possessing a more permanent and
intractable character.

It does not appear that the oranges here are ever in-
fested with the maggots or larvse of the orange fly {Ceratatis
citriperda), so destructive to this fruit in Madeira and other
places, but it is useless to grow peaches or apples unless
grafted with English hardier and better kinds, owing to the
ravages of other Tephritidan or allied Diptera.

The orange tree is known to attain a great age ; we find
them in the old Moorish gardens in Spain, said to be at least
500 years old, the grand old trunks still flourishing. At
the Sabine convent in Rome, a tree is still pointed out,
which is said to have been planted by St. Dominic in the
year 1200, and not very long ago, there was still to be seen
in the garden of the Dominicans in Fondi, near Naples, an
orange tree which tradition said had been planted by
St. Thomas Aquinas ; if so, it must have been more than 500
years old. In France, Holland and England, many trees are
to be found under glass, of stunted growth, but of ages
varying from 200 to 350 years. In S. Miguel, most of the
old trees have long since perished, few having been known
to exceed 200 years.

The varieties of the orange tree are very numerous, and
China, the proverbial land of oranges, has supplied some of
the best kinds.

The tangerine, now so abundant in these islands, must
have originally come from China, and is closely allied to the
famous mandarin orange (Citrus nohilis), perhaps the richest
variety known.

The St. Michael's growlers have of late years been un-
tiring in their efforts to seek for the orange best suited for
their soil and climate, and they now cultivate with con-

siderable success, the following excellent varieties : com-
prida (long), prata (silver), selecta (selected), besides the
old island " real St. Michael," so well known in the streets
of London, and the delicious tangerine, with other kinds of
lesser note. The " selecta " is a fine fruit, devoid of pips,
and ripening only in April, which makes it all the more
valuable.

It is strange to reflect upon the rise, temporary
prosperity, and gradual decay of successive industries in
the island. During the sixteenth century the sugar cane
culture, introduced originally from Sicily into Madeira,
extending thence to St. Michael's, St. Thome and Brazil,
was for some years carried on extensively in this island —
notably at Villa Franca ; but its rapid increase in the South
American colony and West Indies, where sugar could be
produced under much more favourable conditions and in
much larger quantities, gave the death blow to its successful
manufacture here.

[n 1509, there were no less than 20,000 arrobas of sugar
manufactured in these islands, and one of the conditions
stipulated by the Crown in the lease of the Azores to
Fco. Carducho and Fco. Pinhol was that during the period
of their holding of the islands from 1502 to 1505, they
were to pay the Crown, amongst other produce, 5,000
arrobas or 71 tons of sugar, or at the rate of nearly 24 tons
per annum.

In the middle of the following century we find the
pastel, or woad plant, largely cultivated, and the dye ex-
ported to Europe, until it met a fatal rival in indigo.

In 1591, the exports of this article reached the maximum
of 60,000 quintals ; in 1620 they had fallen to 36,840 quintals,
in 1639, when the industry appears to have ceased, they
amounted to 14,200 quintals. The impost derivable from
this source alone during the period of its prosperity,
amounted to 40,000 cruzados per annum. England, Holland
and Seville were the chief markets for the article.

In the eighteenth century we find the vine and the
orange the Alpha and the Omega of the island, the former
alone producing more than 20,000 pipes, worth £71,420 per
annum, before the visitation of the o'idium tuckeri in 1858
destroyed all the vines in the entire group, which, until then,
produced 50,000 pipes of very good wine. At that time the
orange crop was not considered an average one which did
not produce at least 560,000 flat boxes, containing 400
oranges, each box valued at 3s. 6d., or nearly c€100,000 for
the entire production ; often it exceeded this figure. Now
one-third of such a crop is considered a satisfactory return.
The actual number of flat boxes shipped to England during
the year 1884-85, amounted to 131,841, and in the previous
year 1883-1884, 156,227.

The pine-apple industry, which commenced in 1867-68
with an export of 427 pines, has now apparently reached its
utmost limit of profitable expansion, close upon 130,000 pines
having been shipped to England during the year 1888-84,
giving the growers a net profit of £25,000.

The palmy days of St. Michael were those when oranges
were almost as great luxuries in England as peaches and
hot-house grapes are now in winter, and were prescribed
by custom as the special refreshment for young ladies
after dancing. Colonel Eergusson, in his entertaining life
of Henry Erskine, relates an amusing anecdote regarding
the etiquette of oranges about the beginning of the
century.

A country youth at a ball, who was more at home in
the compounding of certain festive beverages, thus addressed
a young lady at the close of the dance. " Miss, wud ye
tak' a leemon?"

It frequently happened that a young lady, suddenly called
upon to dance, would hand over to another, whose fate it
was to '"' sit out," the refreshment upon which she had
been engaged, with a caution against an undue consumption
of the fruit she had temporarily relinquished.

During the five years from 1873-74 to 1877-78, there
were shipped to England 2,322,512 flat boxes of oranges,
or an average of 464,500 flat boxes per annum, which
represented a total value of £124,600 for each year.

The 1882-83 crop only produced 144,280 flat boxes, and
the 1883-84, 156,207 flat boxes ; but, owing to bad prices,
and the tender condition of the fruit, these crops barely
left sufiicient to cover the heavy emphyteutic onus under
which the gardens labour.

The decadence of the orange trade has been an
irreparable loss to the islanders, for they calculate that it
left to the growers and those engaged in it an average of
£177,000 a year, during the height of its prosperity.

Owing to the position of these islands in mid ocean,
subject as they are, during the winter months, to the gales
which sweep the Atlantic, care has to be taken to shelter the
orange trees from the violence of the winds ; they are there-
fore generally planted in rectangular plots enclosed by the
tall and fast growing pittosporum or incenso (Pittosporum
undulatum Vent), a tree introduced forty years ag'o from
Australia, but now disseminated throughout the islands to
their very hill tops. It is not without a certain beauty, its
small white blossom loading the air with a delicious pun-
gency, but its immense lateral roots exhaust the soil, and as
its fast-spreading branches shut off the sun and air, so
necessary for the proper maturity and keeping qualities
of the fruit, it is being gradually replaced by the Faya
myrica, an endemic tree of slower growth, but of greater
durability, and free from the disadvantages of the pittos-
porimi, indeed the leaves and berries of the faya are said to
greatly enrich the soil, an important consideration in a
country where artificial manures are expensive and difficult
to obtain. The pittosporum is native of New South Wales
and Victoria ; the wood attracted some attention at the
International Exhibition in 1862, and was found well
adapted to certain kinds of wood engraving, and regarded

as a possible substitute for box in this industry ; it is light
and even grained, but exceedingly tough, and inferior to
that of Pittosporum hicolor, Hook. The tahira variety resists
the sea breezes better than the two already named, and is
therefore found in orange gardens bordering the coast in
this island.

Almost the only manure ever put into the land here is
the lupin plant {Lupinus termis), which is sown broadcast
and then dug in, when it attains a height of two feet,
strengthening the soil to a remarkable extent.

The secret of its fertilizing quality lies in the plant
possessing when nearly matured, and especially in its seeds,
large quantities of azotic, or nitrogenous elements, which,
combined with what it receives from the soil, makes it act
as one of the best earth stimulants.

The practice of fertilising the land by means of the
lupin plant, now so universal in the islands, commenced in
St. Michael in 1550, the first seeds having been sent for
from Tolosa, in Spain, by the then donatary and governor
of the island, D. Rodrigo. The value of the plant for this
purpose was well known to the Romans, who probably in-
troduced it into Spain.

Although the surface of this light volcanic soil readily
transmits the pluvial waters, the lava rock itself seems to
attract moisture in no small degree, and is supposed to
condense it within its vesicles, for pieces of it taken from
below the immediate surface, when broken, are often found
to hold water. This peculiarity, doubtless, accounts for the
luxuriant growth of the vine and orange tree on rocky or
biscouto ground, and especially when planted within the
singular circular pits dug out for their reception in stony
sites four or five feet deep and five to six in width, which
are often observed in such localities, where otherwise nothing
would grow. The buried and water-laden lava is known to
be more friable and permeable to the delicate roots of
plants than that on the surface ; thus, with little else besides

loose scoria to cover their roots, the vine and orange grow
wonderfully well in these sunken pits, sheltered in winter
from the gales, and in summer their roots being kept moist
by the surrounding wall, whilst the fruit, exposed to the
full effects of the sun and the radiated heat of the stony
ground, soon ripens to perfection.

They still cling in these islands to the ancient, though
graceful, mode of cultivating the vine by training it round
their tall abrigos ; but these, not being pollards, and, as a
rule, profuse of foliage, the grape gets little sun, and cannot
properly ripen. As in the Minho district in Portugal,
the "latada" or bower system is also here largely adopted,
especially over road-side balconies where shade is required.

Some few growers, who wish to improve upon these
modes of cultivation, plant the vines as in France and
Estremadura, in rows, each plant being kept to the height
of from three to four feet ; but this is exceptional, as stony
and " biscouto " localities, fit for little else, are generally
reserved for the vine.

New stocks from the United States, and especially the
scented Isabel variety, are gradually superseding the
exhausted kinds so long cultivated here, and which are
unable to resist the ravages of disease. One great dis-
advantage, however, presents itself in these American vines,
for, though producing enormously, the grapes seldom even
in this climate ripen simultaneous^, producing on that
account a wine too acid to be pleasant, but which is now
generally consumed by all classes, and the quantity produced
in the islands will, in a short time, rival that of olden days.

Besides this Isabel grape, the islanders would do well
to try two other American and disease-resisting vines, the
Jacquez and the wild Eiparias, the latter for grafting the
numerous varieties of acclimatised but exhausted vines, such
as the Bual, Yerdelho and Malvasia, the latter one of the
best wine-producing grapes, originally introduced from
Candia. The Italians called this wine Malvasia, from the

place Monemvasia, whence they chiefly obtamecl it, the
French corrupting it to Malvoisie, and the English to
Malmsey.

A curious arboreal habit of the black island rat (M. rattus)
may be observed in these quintas, for those who pry closely
into the higher branches of the shelter trees will occasionally
find large nests built of twigs and lined with leaves, very
like that of the rook, but a trifle smaller ; these are the
nests of rats. This singular trait of nidification on trees
on the part of rats I do not remember to have seen men-
tioned before. Its only explanation is perhaps to be found
in the fact of the common I^orway or brown rat (M. decu-
manus) which has increased so alarmingly since its importation,
waging inveterate warfare against his black confrere, the
instinct of self-preservation driving the latter to seek safety
for its young in the branches of the higher unfruitful trees,
where the brown rat is not likely to follow ; whatever the
reason, the habit affords the young Azorean much excellent
and exciting sport, for these creatures are particularly fond
of ripe primes, scooping out the whole interior so cleverly as
to leave nothing but a wafer-like hollow rind, destined in
time to disappoint the orange picker when he comes round.

The first flush of blossom takes place in the middle of
January, and continues to March, when the air is loaded
with its delicious and almost overpowering perfume — often-
times wafted out to sea for a distance of two or three miles.
The fruit commences to turn about the beginning of
November, and when in full hue, the sight of these gardens
with their densely-loaded trees, is inconceivably beautiful ;
the transformation, however, is quick — once they are handed
over to the ruthless bands of packers or rancheiros, who,
mounting the trees with baskets, which they hook on to the
branches, soon strip them of their golden freight. The
fruit is then carried into sheds, where it is wrapped in the
leaf of the maize cob, in boxes containing from 350 to 400
oranges.

The chiefs of these packers are called Cabecas, and so
perfect is their training, that by a mere cursory look round
they can tell to a nicety the number of boxes a quinta will
produce. It was, and still is, by their aid, that the mer-
chants purchase the garden crops on the system here known
as " buying by the round," or so much for the whole crop,
but which is fast being substituted by the less precarious
plan of paying so much per box, thus saving the buyer his
frequently heavy and even total loss by wind-falls.

The cost of a flat box of oranges placed on board here is
about 3s. lOd. The orange is the most prolific of trees,
2,000 being a common number for a well-grown tree to
produce ; some have been known to bear as many as 8,000,
but this is rather the exception. In the quinta of
Sn. Lacerda, in the Canada da Cruz, in the island of
Terceira, may be seen a gigantic tree said to be considerably
more than a century old, from which as late as May of 1864,
there were gathered 9,000 oranges. During the fruit season,
the ordinary quiet of the country gives place to busy scenes,
everywhere sounds the incessant clanging of the packers'
hammer, as if the whole population had been condemned by
Vulcan to some expiating penance, and from all quarters
beasts of burden are seen wending their way between two
boxes of golden fruit to the far-off warehouse or quay, and
this goes on from November to March.

The camellia thrives here in unrivalled beauty, and
wherever this plant grows, the tea, itself a species of
camellia, will do equally well.

Under the auspices of the " Society for Promoting
Agriculture," composed of a body of intelligent island
proprietors, two Chinamen versed in the cultivation and
preparation of tea were brought here in 1878, and steps
taken to give this industry a serious trial ; the results already
achieved have exceeded the most sanguine expectations, and
may help perhaps, at no very distant date, to resuscitate to a
certain extent the drooping fortunes, especially of Terceira

and Fajal. The variety ciiltivatecl is the Then hohea, T.
chinensis (Sims) Camellia theifora (Grriff.) A sample of which
was analysed in 1879 by Mr. Schutzemberg-er, of Paris, with
the following results : —

Cellulose resin - - , . , , -,

, ,, ., . . } insoluble . . 64.3

Albumen, oily matter

Theine or caffeine 4.2

Tannin . . . . 1.1 !> soluble . . 35.8

Gummous matter 30.5

100.1

To the above is appended a rider to the effect that the
analysis reveals qualities of an excellent tea, which was fully
borne out by the flavour of the infusion.

It is curious to note, that on the east coast of Spain, and
particularly in the province of Valencia, as well as in
California, much attention is at present being paid to the
systematic cultivation of this important plant. In the
islands, as well as in St. Helena and Madeira, it thrives
luxui'iantly on the rampas, or steep stony inclines or sides of
hills where nothing else but the pine-tree can be got to grow.

The cultivation for export to England of the pine-apple
(Ananassa saliva) under glass has, as we have seen, attained
considerable development, the capital employed in glass-
houses not being far short of £100,000.

The pineries are well worth visiting ; some contain as many
as 4,000 plants under one single roof in all stages of growth.

The largest group of houses is owned by Dr. Botelho
and the Pine Apple Company, in which from 6,000 to 8,000
pines are every year raised.

The cultivation of the pine-apple is by no means easy or
free from considerable expense. Each plant requires 200
kilos of vegetable soil laboriously collected in the woods at
two reis per kilo delivered at the pineries, or Is. 5d. for each
plant for soil alone ; not to mention the expense of attend-

ance, &c., whicli brings up tlie primary cost of the pine to
close upon 2s., to whicli lias to be added the outlay of wood
for boxes, packing, freight, and worst of all, the sale ex-
penses in England.

The varieties of the pine-apples are very numerous. Mr.
D. Munro enumerates no less than 52 kinds which fruited
some years ago in the Horticultural Society's Gardens at
Chiswick. The variety cultivated here is almost exclusively
that known as the smooth Cayenne, and when in perfection
is quite equal in flavour to any English-grown fruit, which,
by the way, they have completely driven from the London
markets. When fully ripe these magnificent pines weigh
from 5 to 8 lbs. each.

Vineyards in France are often protected from spring and
autumn frosts ; their growth retarded and insect life de-
stroyed by the burning of piles of damp straw, the smoke of
which burns over the plantations. Here volumes of smoke
are sometimes generated in the pineries for the purpose of
staying the too rapid growth of the plants, which, if un-
checked, would prove unfruitful. Beyond arresting their
quick development and accelerating their flowering, the
plants do not appear to ultimately sustain any damage from
this treatment and produce average-sized pines.

The fruit is timed to ripen in the winter months, when
it is carefully packed in crates singly, or in boxes of 6 to 12,
and exported to England. The cost of these pine-houses
averages from 15s. to 20s. per set plant ; and so remunerative
were the prices realised during the first few years that one
or two crops were sufficient to cover the primary outlay.
Now, however, that the annual produce has reached over
150,000, the returns have proportionately decreased. Con-
siderable care is expended upon these pineries, the smallest
oversight being sufficient, at certain periods, to spoil the
whole crop, and the leaves of the plants have to be periodi-
cally wiped to keep them free from blight.

In such a climate as is ^lei^e enjoyed, no bottom or

artificial lieat is necessary, thus enabling this cultivation
to be carried on at a comparatively small outlay. Fresh and
rapidly fermenting vegetable soil being always used for
every successive crop, an accumulation of the old vegetable
mould takes place around the glass houses, in w^hich
quantities of the finest strawberries are grown and sold in
the spring in the streets of Ponta Delgada, at extremely low
prices.

The pine-apple industry in St. Michael's has already in a
great measure compensated the islanders for their deficient
orange crops, for on the outlay expended in hot-houses they
have been getting a return of from 10 to 15 per cent. Well
may they exclaim —

Thou blest anana ! thou the pride
Of vegetable life, beyond whatever
The poets imaged in the golden age.

To provide timber for making up the fruit boxes, very
extensive tracts of country, which a few 3^ears ago were
barren and valueless, have since been cleared and covered
with trees of various kinds, amongst which we see Pimis
maritima, Ausiriaca nifjra, and Insignis, growing side by side
with Cryptomeria japonica, the Australian Eucalyptus and
Acasia melanoxylon, all having, apparently, found their
native habitats here, and attaining arboresence with as-
tonishing rapidity and sufiicient girth at the end of 15 or 17
years to render them fit for felling. During the prosperity
of the fruit trade, these trees were, at that age, worth from
1 2s. 6d. to £1 as they stood, and many proprietors who had
turned miles of otherwise useless properties into forest
lands, saw glimpses of large fortunes in the near future ;
but the attenuated orange crops of recent years have im-
mensely depreciated the value of these woods, no longer in
such demand.

A few months ago, 22 alqueires of pine forest, of above
20 years growth, and in splendid condition, were sold for
600$000^ or rather less than £5 an alqueire. Some half-a-

100

dozen years ago this same property would have realised at
least £17 the alqueire. Such has been the frightful
depreciation in the value of timber during the last few
years.

It seems incredible how the pine-tree here thrives on
what appears to be absolutely bare and naked rock, on which
even thistles are sparse, and the ubiquitous Pittosporum
camiot find a footing, but once plant it between the scoria
crevices, and in a short time the moisture it attracts
crumbles the easily disintegrated tufa, affording the young
tree a shallow but rich soil whereon to thrive. It is a
common and picturesque sight, when riding through the
country, to see men at work in these woods felling and
sawing great trunks ; every now and then the ring of the
woodman's axe, or the hideous sound of the steam saw,
falling upon the ear and startling the stillness with its
unearthly screech — lengthened by the echoing forest.

It is estimated that from six to seven hundred moios
(thirty-six thousand to forty- two thousand alqueires) of
land, have been planted with pine and other trees; the con-
sumption of wood for orange and pine-apple boxes in average
seasons not exceeding what two to two-and-a-half moios
would produce ; there is therefore abundance of timber to
meet the requirements of the island for some considerable
time to come.

It is true that since 1877, when the orange trees first
began to show signs of the blight which has so much injured
the yearly yield of fruit, the increased supply of timber
over consumption has reduced the price of the flat box
delivered at the purchaser's warehouse ready for nailing
together, to one tostno or 5d., barely sufficient to cover the
cost of felling, sawing, &c., but this state of things is
probably transitory, and the price of timber will rise with
increased orange crops and consumption.

Until the year 1832, the timber employed for the orange
boxes had been imported frona Figueira in Portugal ; but

101

tlie ^' War of the Brothers," which then broke out, stopped
all further supplies. The exporters Avere therefore com-
pelled to look to America and the north of Europe for
their requirements, and forced to cut down every a-vailable
tree they could procure in the island ; thus it is that so few
old trees are now found standinsr.

We have seen the terrible effects of the destruction of the
woods in the islands of Malta, Cape de Verds, the West
India group, and other places, where the lands have become
deserts, and even circumscribed in area throug^h denudation.
Such was the danger which at one time threatened
St. Michael's, until the exigencies of her orange trade
fortunately averted a similar fate. Undoubtedly the increase
of wooded surface, and the constant attraction of rain
thereby induced, is slowly altering the climate of the island
by lessening the summer droughts : but dangerously pro-
longing the wet seasons.

Many of these trees, such for instance, as the Eucalyptus,
of which many tens of thousands have been planted, absorb
ten times their own weight of water, which is returned to
the atmosphere in the shape of vapour. To what extent
in limited areas like these do such trees affect the climate ?

The rainfalls in the Acores are capricious in the extreme,
and it is a question how far the planting and subsequent
felling of extensive tracts in the island of S. Miguel affects
the regularity of the seasons ; that these, more especially
during recent times, have been much disturbed, there is no
doubt, for climatic changes are now more frequent and
violent, bringing about total failures of the crops, so that,
with a genial climate and soil of unsurpassed fertility, the
anomaly of gaunt famine amongst the poor classes is not an
uncommon event here.

Occasionally too, these islands come within the influence
of icebergs from Baffin's Bay, which pass a little to the
westward of them, causing quick condensations of vapour
in their track, and probably often accounting for those

102

masses of cloud wliicli canopy their inouiitain tops, and thus
shut out the rays of the sun when most needed.

Perhaps, on this account, nowhere is one so charmed by
the occasional glories of the rising and setting summer and
autumn sun as in these islands. Dense cloud cumuli,
massed together by the aerial currents, until they look like
solid and gigantic battlements against a zenith of pure blue,
ofPer splendid play for the rays of the great orb ; these
beautiful tints, reflected upon the prevailing deep green of
the orange plantations, and gilding the tij)s of the distant
pine-clad hills, present a combination of lights and shades
of incomparable loveliness, calculated to drive an artist mad,
in the impotency of his power to portray them.

A word for the Milho — 'the staff of life of these poor
people — and to them what barley cakes were to the Roman
gladiator. An introduction into Europe from America in
the middle of the sixteenth century, the Indian corn (Zea
mays) is perhaps the most useful of all the cereals to man, and
is certainly in these islands made much of.

Von Tschudi mentions ma-ize as having been found in
Peru, in tombs apparently more ancient than the times of
the Incas, and consumed by the Indian tribes in Mexico and
the valley of the Mississippi ; it was regularly cultivated, and
their chief means of sustenance.

Recent travellers in China, moreover, state that the
potato, corn, and both the white and yellow varieties of
maize, have been cultivated in that country from time
immemorial.

It is certain, too, that maize was known and cultivated
by the ancient Egyptians in very remote ages, and it appears
to have first been introduced into Portuo-al, not from
America, but from African Guinea.

Nothing can exceed, during favourable seasons, its
luxuriant development in this island.

When it attains full growth, and the panicle begins to
appear, the tender top (espiga) is broken off a foot or so

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108

from the cob, and given as forage to cattle ; the remaining
leaves are then allowed to dry on the stalk, and presently
gathered into bundles, are stored as winter fodder — gavella —
for horses and cattle. ,

The dry cob leaves are split into ribands and used for
stufiing mattresses — a material always clean and elastic and
unattractive to insects.

This leaf is also used, as we have seen, for wrapping
round the oranges — a mode of packing peculiar to these
islands. Maize contains from 6 to 12 per cent, of oil, and
its meal upwards of four times as much oleaginous matter
as wheat flour — hence the shiny coats and sleek appearance
of animals fed upon it.

To man, maize is just as sustaining as oatmeal, and
possesses all the elements necessary for supporting the
greatest physical exertion and giving considerable muscular
strength. The soundness and whiteness of the teeth of the
natives is attributed to their eating so much pao de milho,
and children given the maize will be found to make bone
and altogether thrive better on it than on wheaten bread.
The stalk contains sufficient saccharine matter for the
profitable production of sugar, and from the husk, after the
grain has been extracted, Herr Holl, of Worms, has recently
invented a process whereby alcohol equal to potato spirit can
be obtained, the residue forming a pulp suitable for the food
of various animals.

The Indian corn, when gathered in these islands, is stacked
in a very effective and pleasing manner ; the cobs, when ripe,
are taken and stripped of their leafy covering, with the
exception of two or three sufficient to tie them in bundles of
twenty or more. These bundles are then threaded one above
the other on tripod poles fixed in the ground sixteen or
twenty feet high, thus exposed to the full hardening effects
of the sun, and may we also add, to the depredations of the
rats. These bright yellow pyramidal "toldas," occurring,
as they do, in groups of a dozen or twenty, form an exceed-

104

i iig'lj picturesque and cliaracteristic sight. When thoroughl}'
dried, the maize is taken down and inned before the winter
commences ; sometimes, however, the maize is stacked with
its leafy covering, when it remains out during all the
winter.

Like all mountainous countries, these islands are rather
subject to sudden transitions from sunshine to rain : the
high and frequently wooded summits of their hills attract
passing currents, the cooler temperature condensing the
moisture they contain, which falls in unseasonable showers.
Over the country, too, is spread a fleecy canopy, through
which oftentimes at critical harvest periods the sun cannot
penetrate with full ripening force.

These oft recurring failures of the crops are aggravated
by the whole land being held and owned by the rich to the
utter exclusion of the labourer, who, unable to rise above his
even precarious lOd. a day wage, is condemned to a lifetime
of ill-paid labour, and when the maize crops, their staple
article of food, fail, and grain has to be imported at high
prices, the labourer and his numerous progeny have a bad
time of it here.

IN'otwithstanding these occasional disadvantages, the
climate of S. Miguel, as of the other islands forming the
group, is mild, equable and balmy, no extremes of heat or
cold occurring at any season of the year.

Homer's description of the Hesperides aptly applies to
them —

Stern Winter smiles on that auspicious clime,
The fields are florid with unfading prime,
From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,
Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow ;
But from the breezy deep the bless'd inhale
The fragrant murmurs of the western gale.

In summer the prevailing winds are north-east and
easterly. In winter, however, they are oftentimes visited
by severe gales from the south, south-west^ and more

105

rarely, from the north-west and south-east, when the
temperature falls to its lowest, especially during the preva-
lence of the latter, but, except on the higher mountain tops,
frosts are quite unknown.

The temperature during the winter months shows a
maximum of 75°, minimum of 48°, and mean of 61°. In
summer a maxim am of 82^°, minimum of 50°, and mean of
69.5°.

The rainfall, as we have seen, is very irregular, but has
increased considerably of recent years, owing to the covering
of the highlands with timber trees. Here the fall must
considerably exceed 60 inches ; but on the lower levels the
average may be taken at 40 inches — the annual amount of
evaporation showing a mean of 45 inches.

Yolcanic soils are, as a rule, too light to retain water
long, and especially is this the case here, where the land
almost everywhere slopes gently to the sea, any excess of
rain being quickly carried away ; no inconvenience is there-
fore felt from persistent rainfalls, as in some of the heavier
soils of England.

The absence of any annoying insects beyond mosquitos
also conduces in no slight measure to the enjoyment of this
pleasant climate ; but, owing to the humid and enervating
character of the sea-board air, it affords but temporary
relief to pulmonary complaints, and patients suffering from
phthisis, in search of a genial yet bracing change, cannot be
too strongly warned against taking up their permanent
residence here ; let them rather seek Algiers or Southern
California (Los Angeles or Sta. Barbara), where the air is
drier and therefore more suited to that fell complaint. The
unceasing evaporation from the surrounding ocean naturally
contributes to the humidity of isolated oceanic islands in
greater or less degree, according to the temperature of the
air, absorption being, of course, greater in summer than in
winter ; it follows, therefore, that the air of these islands
during hot, sultry weather is damp almost to saturation.

106

That the Gulf stream — that wondrous oceanic "warm river"
issuing from the Gulf of Florida, with a breadth varying
from thirty to sixty miles, possessing a depth of 2,200 feet,
and a temperature of eighty-six degrees Fahrenheit —
exercises, from the vicinity of its southern arm to the group,
a very decided thermic influence upon the climate of these
islands there can be no doubt, for we know that the northern
deflection of the stream modifies and ameliorates, in no
small degree, the climate of the shores of Britain and north-
eastern and western EuroiDe. To this heat-dispersing agent
is doubtless due that humidity in the atmosphere of these
islands, which, though not injurious to the healthy and
strong, is yet fatal in its ultimate effects upon the consump-
tive ; add to which, Ponta Delgada still lacks hotels^ or
pensions possessing the comforts which patients are ac-
customed to at home ; the houses, too, are not, in the
absence of fire-places and other conveniences, adapted as
residences for invalids in the winter time.

Owing to this excess of humidity, it is difiicult to keep
grain of any kind for lengthened periods — a disadvantage
which could be easily overcome by establishing the kiln-
drying process.

The early inhabitants of these islands successfully pre-
served their corn by keeping it in pits or silos containing
about twenty quarters each ; almost every townsman had
his silo, which was lined with straw, and so constructed that
no rain could enter. The opening was just large enough to
admit a man ; and in this way grain kept the whole year.

Each pit was covered by a large stone with the owner's
mark on it, and a certain quarter of the town was set apart
expressly for the construction of these grain receptacles.

*English and American visitors will find the hotel kept by Mrs. Brown at
Pinheiros, Ponta Dalgada, comfortable, clean and moderate (about a dollar or
4s. 6d. a day). There are also two Portuguese hotels, one the ' Azorean,'' kept by
Snr. Manoel Correa, and the other, which is more of a boarding house, kept by
Snr. Gil ; both arc fairly good and very reasonable, but the first named is specially
recommended to visitors.

Chapter IX.

Emigration — Population — Brazilians — The Military — The Castle — M atriz
Church — " Imi'Erio do Espirito Santo " — Nuns, Monks, and Priests —
College or the Jesuits — Museum, Educational E.starlishments, and
Libraries — Architecture — The Hospital — The Streets — Caves — Fish —
Love of the Portuguese for Flowers — Gardens — Cedar Trees — Story of

A Moorish Shipwreck.

Where in a smiling vale the mountains end,
Form'd in a crystal lake the waters blend,
Fring'd was the border with a woodland shade,
In every leaf of various green array' d,
Each yellow-tinged, each mingling tint between
The dark ash-verdure and the silvery green.

Miclclc's " Camoem:''

Emigration, generally clandestine, has of late years
greatly relieved the necessitous condition of these j)Oor
islanders, but the difficulties in the way of the overplus
population seeking their fortunes elsewhere hare been
increased by a law passed in the Cortes in 1880, compelling
all males, on attaining the age of 14, to deposit £40 with
the State, before being allowed to leave the country ; this
sum being kept in pawn with a view to providing a military
substitute, should the emigrant not return when required to
undergo the period of service in the army all Portuguese are
liable to.

The stream of emigration from the three most eastern
islands of S. Miguel, Santa Maria and Terceira, has
through accidental circumstances generally proceeded
steadily to Brazil, whereas that from the westernmost islands
of Fayal, San Jorge and Flores is directed mainly to the
United States, whilst Madeira, singularly enough, con-
tributes a by no means insignificant quota to the Sandwich
Islands, where the number of Portuguese (chiefly from

108

Madeira and tlie A9ores) had in 1884 reached 9,000, as
against 436 in 1879.

The total annual emigration from this archipelago fluctu-
ates between two and three thousand of both sexes, but is
continuous. Besides the English, German and Portuguese
steamers which occasionally call at these islands for their
living freights, there are three or four sailing vessels em-
plo^^ed between them and Boston and 'New Bedford, U.S.,
carrying each about 170 passengers, and making five or
six voyages in the year.

Brazil, however, is the El Dorado of these poor islanders ;
once there, they fondly imagine themselves for ever manu-
mitted from the vexatious and hopeless drudgery they are
subject to here. But how different the sequel in the
majority of cases !

Erom 1870 to 1874 there landed in Brazil from Portugal
and the A90res 46,828 emigrants, of whom 9,157 were minors.

The following emigration returns for the year 1879,
taken from a Brazilian paper, speak volumes for the fate
the majority of these unfortunate people meet with.

During the whole 12 months, 49,538 emigrants from
Europe landed at the various Brazilian ports ; of these, only
3,240 (3,127 being Portuguese) found employment, chiefly
as agricultural labourers and miners ; 15,237 were still
seeking engagements at the end of the year ; 16,661 died
within the period from various diseases, consequent upon
exposure and want, and 11,400 returned to Europe.

An ofiicial table of the emigration from St. Michael for
the ten years, 1872 to 1882, shows the following : —

Years. Emigrants.

1872-74 .. .. 2,460

1875-77 .. .. 2,232

1878-80 .. .. 3,834

1881-82 .. .. 6,947

5,473

J09

From the whole group of islands during the same period
22,794 persons emigrated.

Notwithstanding this constant flux of emigration, the
population of the island would seem to be on the increase, for
the census of 1864 showed that the number of inhabitants
amounted to 106,000, whereas in the last census of 1878
they had increased to 120,000 approximately, distributed
between thirty-five towns and villages.

The amounts remitted by successful emigrants to their
friends in the islands are very considerable. The fortunes
of Terceira have of recent years positively revived under this
influence, and Fayal alone receives in some years as much as
£20,000 of savings from the Western States. I have seen it
stated in a generally well-informed native paper, that the
sums remitted to these islands by absent colonists have
occasionally amounted to 300 contos or £53,600, but this
must be an exaggerated or very exceptional estimate.

The emigrants from the A9ores ever retain an affectionate
remembrance of their former homes, and unless prevented
by family ties, return, sometimes with considerable fortunes,
to end their days here. I once met a man on board the
" A9or," who had been away in one of the Western States
for twenty-five years and was visiting Fayal to see his
friends. He had forgotten every word of Portuguese except
'^ Saudades," "^ for his native place, which he felt must be
satisfied at any cost.

Every steamer from Lisbon carries as passengers to the
islands, one or more of these fortunate emigrants returning
home with their "little pile," after an absence of many
years in the United States or Brazil.

These islanders, on returning from Brazil, are known as
" Brazileiros " ; if from the United States, as "Americanos."

A Lisbon paper, the Commercio de Portugal, commenting

* Almeida-Garrett, one of Portugal's most gifted -writers, thus describes this
expression of tender longing. The word "Saudade" is perhaps the sweetest, most

110

recently upon the respective influences exercised by these
emigrants, draws so exact a picture of their different types
as to be worth reproduction.

"The 'Americano' is a man strengthened in frame, with a
mind braced by the grand intuitive feelings of goodness
and sympathy. He i^ossesses extreme application for work ;
his modest capital is consecrated to the honest transactions
of industry and commerce. He understands the word
family, educates his sons, is sober, intelligent, and extremely
liberal. His house is elegant, bathed by fresh air and light;
it possesses that solid yet economical furniture which is
characteristic of American habitations. Within resides a
family, the members of which are beloved of one another,
and who work. The 'Americano ' in the Azores is a patriot.
He is proud of having lived in the United States, and he
nourishes the hope that those good and generous lands will
one day be as free as those of the Great Republic. There
are many people who regard the emancipation of the Acores
as an Utopian idea, or at most as a threat to the metropolis.
They are mistaken. Emancipation is a fact which is being
prepared for by education in social institutions and by a

expressive, and delicate expression in our language. The idea and sentiment it
conveys is certainly felt in all countries, but I do not know of any special term in
any other language to designate it, except in Portuguese.

Oh Saudade !

Magico numen que transportas a alma,

Do aniigo ausente ao solitario amigo,

Do vago amante a amada inconsolavel,

E ate ao triste, ao infeliz proscripto

— Dos entes o miserrimo na terra —

Ao rega^o da patria enl sonhos levas.

(Oh Saudade !
Soul-transporting, magic word I whose influence sweet
Knits with far-reaching links the hearts of absent friends,
To maid disconsolate draws the fickle lover's thought.
And to the oiitlaw sad, a gleam of comfort lends
— Of all earth's beings, for pity the object meet —
Yet by you, in dreams, to his country's bosom brought.)

Ill

certain culture many possess from long residence in the
United States.

" The '^ Brazileiro ' in general is, um anemico, uiierlj devoid
of good instincts, and without social education. He does not
at first sight inspire great sympathies. He is the embodiment
of laziness. 'No sooner has he arrived than his capital is
employed in impudent stock- jobbing. His idea is enjoy-
ment — the enjoyment tainted by the brutality of an evil
instinct. For him family has no charms nor sacred ties.
Libertinism to him is not a thing repugnant and vile. Without
any idea of religion, of country, or of famih^, the ' Brazileiro '
is an impious being. He speaks evil of all principles of
truth and justice, 'to give himself the airs ' of a free-
thinker. From time to time he has the pretension to display
greatness ; he indulges in charity for vanity's sake, and
bestows public alms upon the poor with great noise and
ostentation. In the poor villages the ' Brazileiro ' is
appreciated and judged by the amount of alms he bestows
on the day of his ' festa.' Contrasted with the ' Americano '
the ' Brazileiro ' has only one pre-occupying thought — the
usurious and profitable employment of his capital.

" The 'Americano ' is ever employed in the great initiatives
of work; he introduces new machines, he seeks to make
American products known, and, so to speak, to naturalize
them. Not so the ' Brazileiro ' ; he is all routine. He
arrives, and the small glebe of land which belonged to him
by patrimony continues to be scratched by the old useless
plough ; the agricultural processes continue to be the ones
followed by the old forefathers. Nothing of innovations,
nothing of studies, and nothing of work. We positively
affirm that morally the influence of the ' Brazileiro ' has
been as unfortunate to Azorean civilization as the moral
and material influence of the ' Americano ' has been useful
and profitable."

The Azorean islander flies from the recruiting sergeant
as he would from the Evil One, and, to escape service, will

112

run any risks — not that lie fears soldiering and its vicissitudes
but because to him it means banishment from the country,
and friends he dearly loves, and the lost chance of a possible
competency in the autumn of life. He will, however,
cheerfully submit to an exile of many years, if only, at the
end, it holds out the possibility of a return, with means
sufficient to keep off " chill penury." This is the hope he
ever harps upon when absent, and to him the words of the
poet aptly apply —

Land of my sires, what mortal hand

Can e'er untie the filial band

That knits me to thy rugged strand r

By law of 7tli April, 1873, monetary payment in sub-
stitution of enlistment was abolished, and the unhappy
emigrant was still liable to be called upon to serve, if he
returned prior to attaining his 36th year. Thus, if he
wished to escape service, he was forced to expatriate himself
during the youngest and happiest period of his existence.
This decree was, however, abrogated in 1883, and substitutes
allowed, upon payment of £40 for each military or naval
recruit.

The number contributed for the two services by the entire
Azorean group is on an average 712, of which the district
of S. Miguel furnishes 341. The Acores form the 5th
Military Division of Portugal, the headquarters and ^lace
d'armes being permanently established at Angra, Terceira.

The entire garrison of the island of S. Miguel, consists
of a battalion of the 11th Cacadores, and a company of
artillery.

The fort of S. Braz, already mentioned, derives its name
from a chapel which formerly stood upon the site. It was
commenced in 1552, and completed at a cost of £6,500 —
a large sum for those days. Its chief purpose was to repel
the attacks of corsairs and roving marauders, who made
happy hunting grounds of these seas, lying in wait for the
fleets of richly-laden naos, or Portuguese East Indiamen,

113

which, during the zenith and brief hey-day of Portugal's
colonial empire (the glamour and memory of which every
true Portuguese still fondly cherishes), regularly made for
the A9ores to provision on their long voyages home from
India, China and Africa ; or making prizes of the ponderous
Spanish galleons returning from the Antilles.

During the reign of Emanuel (Dom Manoel), and for at
least twenty years of his reign, an average of thirteen naos
arrived annually at Lisbon from the Portuguese Indian
jDOSsessions, laden with spices and other valuable commodities,
and bringing quantities of gold and precious stones — and
for the sixty years ending 1756, Portugal received from
Brazil alone upwards of 100 millions sterling of specie,
excluding precious stones and the fortunes accumulated by
colonists and others. At present, except in the famous
diamonds belonging to the Braganza family, scarcely a
vestige remains in the country of this vast wealth, unless it
be in the numerous palatial (but now ruinous) residences,
built in those prosperous times, which are to be met with
throughout Portugal — alas ! mere shadows of their original
grandeur.

These rovers appear to have held the Azorean defences

of little account ; for we find a governor of S. Miguel in

1572 complaining to the king of a French privateer, carrying

twenty guns, and a motley crew of 300 men running

defiantly under the very guns of the fort, and carrying off

the peaceful caravels at anchor there, even within shot of

his arquebusiers. The " Castle " sweeps the bay of Ponta

Delgada, at the head of which it stands, but, as in former

times, is utterly useless as a means of defence. No objection

is made to the curious visitor prying into the mysteries

of its arcana, and he mav be interested in the examination

of some few obsolete and even ancient 40-pounders,

which arm its parapets — harmless, except to the braves

who occasionally on Saints' days venture to discharge

them.

114

In none of these islands is a single Armstrong or Krupp
gun to be found ; the government, apparently, being of
opinion that the gates of Janus are to be for ever closed in
these remote and peaceful islands, forgetting that quite
within the memory of man such playful accidents as the
sinking of a friendly nation's vessel by the guns of another
friendly flag, have happened under the very walls of some
of these Azorean castles.

One would have thougnt that during the struggle
between the Northern and Southern States of America, and
more recently, during that between France and Germany,
when war vessels of these nations played at hide and seek
amongst these islands, the government would have seen the
necessity of placing these crumbling forts in a position to
at least command respect — for the smallest hostile sloop of
war, if armed with modern artillery, could at any time defy
them with impunity.

In former times, every foreigner arriving here was at
once escorted to the "Castle," where his papers were
examined and, even if found in order, he had subsequently to
obtain permission from the chief magistrate to remain in
the island ; needless to say, that all these formalities have
been done away with, and passengers are free to come and
go without even the necessity of a passport.

The basilica of S. Miguel is the church of Saint
Sebastian, better known as the Matriz ; it owed its origin to
a plague which broke out in 1523, and lasting eight years,
carried off many victims.

As a propitiatory offering that the pest might be stayed,
contributions were raised amongst the terrified community,
and with the proceeds the finest religious edifice in the
island was erected and dedicated to the martyr Saint
Sebastian.

Like all the Azorean churches, it is rigidly plain, its
rectilineal outlines being utterly devoid of architectural
beauty. The style of these Portuguese churches is probably

115

an imitation of those of Lombardy and Upper Italy, without
the elegant rose windows which distinguished them. The
freedom in ecclesiastical architecture which in 1589 to 1680
superseded the more austere style so long under the influence
of the priesthood in many parts of Europe, never penetrated
permanently into Portugal, where we find the clerical in-

MATEIZ CHURCH, PONTA DELGADA.

fluence too powerful for any innovation or improvement in
the outward building of their churches, and this influence
continued even after the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1760
from Portugal and her dependencies. All their efforts at
embellishment seem to have been expended upon the interior,
especially in the brilliant colouring and painting of the
ceilings and walls, fine examples of which may be seen
in the Estrella and other churches in Lisbon, and Se at
Terceira.

T 2

116

Several writers on Portuguese church architecture, and
notably Mr. Crawfurd, have very aptly classified this as the
Jesuit style.

The western and southern entrances are ornamented with
some passable marble carvings and bas-reliefs, executed and
brought from Lisbon ; on the facia over the latter are carved
busts of Dom Manuel and his queen. The interior is divided
by two rows of massive pillars into a handsome nave and
aisles ; there is some good work on the capitals of these
columns, which, in a measure, relieves their heaviness. The
altar is very elegant. On high festivals an excellent organ
makes the edifice resound with ''music's melting, mystic
lay." Yery good vocal music may also be heard on these
occasions, the choir being highly trained, and some of the
voices really very fine. Some processions and celebrations
are held within its walls, amongst others an interesting one,
yclept " a festa da Pombinha," at Easter time, to com-
memorate certain miraculous events which happened thus : —
The comet of 1672, observed by several astronomers in
Europe, became conspicuously visible in these islands in
March of that year, and as these mysterious bodies were
at that time looked upon as presaging dire calamities, and
as the visible signs of divine wrath, the superstitious inhabi-
tants were filled with fear, and by fastings and prayer strove
to ward off the threatened evil. It so happened that a few
days after the appearance ol this comet a choleraic epidemic
broke out in Ponta Delgada, the daily mortaliirj^ being so
great that the cemeteries could no longer afford room for
interments. At this juncture, many processions were re-
sorted to, and a religious and charitable confraternity es-
tablished, known as " a irmandade da misericordia," who
commenced their ministrations by a solemn procession within
the "precincts of the town, beating a large drum, that its
sounds might expel and drive away the malignant fevers.
This belief in the efiicacy of sound to drive away " wycked
spirytes" seems to have been pretty general at the time, for on

117

the authority of Brand, bells were rung- in England to '' drive
away divils and tempests." The old Portuguese chronicler
goes onto say that no sooner had this procession issued from the
church th£;n the sickness ceased ; a special service of thanks-
giving wati thereupon held at the Matriz, attended by thou-
sands of tl e inhabitants. The service had scarcely commenced
when a dove was seen to fly into the crowded edifice, and
after fluttering about for some time, alighted on the chief
altar piece. The preacher, being equal to the occasion, hailed
the bird as the harbinger of peace, assured the multitude
that their prayers had been heard, and that the Divine
wrath had been appeased. Every year this festival is
held on Easter Monday — the anniversary of this occa-
sion — the same miraculous dove always putting in an
appearance.

Another famous ceremonial is the " Imperio do Espirito
Santo " or, as it is sometimes called, " Imperio dos nobres,"
from its aristocratic associations, which had its origin
in remote times, and was surrounded by many quaint
rites. It was evidently intended to symbolize the Trinity,
and was first instituted by the charitable Queen Isabella
(of saintly memory) in 1300, at the small town of Alemquer,
in Estremadura. The queen's biographer, Bishop Lacerda,
and other writers of the time, thus describe this singular
festival : " Having erected m Alemquer a church dedicated
to the Holy Ghost, the queen resolved upon instituting the
festival of the "Coronation of the Emperor," for which
purpose she invited all the members of the neighbouring
hierarchies to attend. Seated on a throne under the canopy
was the individual called " the emperor,'* supported by two
others, one on either side, whom they called " kings," and
attending these were three pages bearing each a crown,
that of the emperor, sometimes carried by the Prince Royal
of Portugal, being extremely handsome, and presented for the
purpose by the queen. Having placed the crown for a few
moments on the altar, a priest in fall canonicals then

118

crowned the three typical monarchs, who, attended by all
the nobles and a great concourse of people, carrying green
boughs in their hands, and accompanied by the playing
of bagpipes, proceeded in procession through the principal
streets of the town, on their way to the parish church of
S. Francisco. Here they were received by the p ^ebendary,
who handed bouquets of flowers to the nobles, some of
whom then danced with three young maidens selected for
their beauty and virtues, and who had attended the
putative monarchs in the capacity of queens. The
ceremony was ended by the bestowal upon these maidens
of their marriage portions, contributed by the community
at large ; after which, the procession, reforming, returned
in the same order to the Church of the Espirito Santo,
where the crowns were deposited. Following this came
the distribution of bread, meat, and wine to the
poor.

This serio-comic ceremonial soon extended throughout all
Portugal, but its accessories have been much modified. Pre-
ceding the customary procession, bands of fantastically
dressed men, called Folioes, may still be seen going about
the streets of these island towns, begging contributions from
house to house for the coming festival, and uttering as they
go wail-like and excessively nasal chants — veritable fugues
of invocation — to the accompaniment of the guitar and other
instruments. The name Foliao is evidently derived from
foUe (gaita de folle), a bagpipe, which, in Portugal, was
always used in folias or dances. The Portuguese appear to
have been very partial to this instrument, and a treatise
exists on the art of playing the bagpipe, by Andre de
Escobar, organist to the Cathedral of Coimbra, who lived a
century ago, and is said to have played the most difficult
compositions on it.

In the chief thoroughfare of every village in these islands,
however insignificant, is to be seen a small square stone
building— generally ten feet by eight, and open in front and

119

at the sides — called by the natives " o theatro," where the
" emperor " is enthroned and holds his mimic court. He
has it all to himself now, for his two rivals, the kings (with
much of the ancient splendour of this ceremonial) , have been,
long since done away with. He is elected by " universal
suffrage," belongs as a rule to the plebeian class ; and
the age of the juvenile candidate varies from eight to
twelve.

At Whitsuntide and on Trinity Sunday these little votive
temples (for such they are) present a pleasing and animated
appearance, being gaily decorated with flowers and flags,
in anticipation of the imperial coronation which then takes
place. Tables having been laid out on one side of the road-
way in close proximity to the " imperio," joints of raw meat,
bread and fruits, the gifts of the charitable, are ser
out on them, amid bright coloured flowers and bouquets ;
the footway being strewn with highly scented blossoms and
aromatic leaves (a relic of plague-stricken ages, when less
regard was given to hygiene, and such perfumes were
supposed to ward off disease).^ The parish priest then
proceeds to bless these good things, when they are at once
distributed in equal shares to the poor of the district,
all previously provided with the necessary ticket entitling
him or her to the portion. After this ceremony lots are
drawn by ballot for appointing the "imperador" for the
ensuing year, and his various office-bearers, especially the
mordomo do fogo, a personage of great importance, whose
duty it is to provide and let off rockets and fireworks. At
nightfall the "■ imperador " returns home in state, accom-
panied by the fanfare of martial music, his crown being-
carried before him on a silver salver.

* On these occasions, you tread on perfect carpets of the beautiful blue lily
{Agapanthus umbellatus), masses of Avhich adorn many a neglected road-side
patch, mingled here and there with the scarlet spike of the Tritoma twaria or
" red-hot-poker."

120

Marshalled by four " folioes," in their peculiar garb, one
of whom carries a red damask banner with the imperial
crown worked in the centre, over which flutters a white dove,
the procession with lighted torches moves in two wings at
a slow pace, chanting portions of a hymn as they go along.
Arrived at the house, or rather cottage, of the imperador the
crown is reverently deposited on a high altar, on which,
amongst masses of flowers, burn innumerable lights ; the
banner is laid by its side, a short hymn of praise is sung,
and without more ado, the " balho " commences, and is
kept up until morning. This description of an " imperio "
admits of variation according to locality and the means of
the people. So anxious are these poor folks to figure in
these proceedings, that families have been known to beggar
themselves in order to keep up the "imperio " with becom-
ing splendour.

Sometimes its eclat is enhanced by the addition of two
columns of little girls dressed in white, in whose centre
majestically walks the " empress," preceded by her crown
and standard bearer, and followed by her dames of
honour.

Strange as these mock-dignities and quasi-religious
ceremonies may appear, we are yet remiaded by the elder
D'Israeli, that in England in the middle ages we had our
boy-bishops, and on St. Nicholas' day — a saint who was
the special patron of children — the boy-bishop with his "mitra
parva" and a long crozier, attended by his schoolmates as
his diminutive prebendaries, assumed the title and state of
a bishop. This child-bishop preached a sermon and after-
wards, accompanied by his attendants, went along singing
and collecting his pence.

Before the "imperios" were introduced into Portugal
they had the " folias do Bispo Innocente," also common in
France, and especially at S. Martin de Tours; but these
dances, leading to contempt of religion, were suppressed in
1260, and afterwards substituted, as we have seen, by the

121

" Imperios do Espirito Santo " by Queen Isabel and
D. Diniz.

In Siam also, there has existed from time immemorial, a
kindred festival occurring every year in January, during
which the sovereign of the country names a " three-days'
king " from amongst his favorite mandarins, and nominally
abdicates in his favor. The object, however, appears to be
purely that of a carnival jollification, as no element of
charity enters into the arrangement.

Many natures are shocked at witnessing ceremonies
and processions such as these, which they look upon as akin
to idolatry, forgetting that the lower orders, for whom these
priestly mummeries were instituted, are yet so benighted as to
be unable to understand the true nature of the Deity, and
without some such ceremonies as these, which have existed
from time immemorial, religion, to these poor people, would
be a blank, unmeaning thing.

Another singular procession, now happily suppressed,
was one called " a processao dos ter5eiros," which issued
from the chapel of " Nossa Senhora das Dores." In it were
carried the life-size figures of Saint Francis, representative
of this saint's various sufferings, and followed by a number
of supposed penitents dressed in tight-fitting blouses of
sackcloth with hoods completely covering their faces, only
small apertures being left for the eyes and mouth. Each
carried on his shoulder a huge cross, and in his hand a whip-
cord ; every now and then, the procession stopped that these
penitent "Maroccos," as they were nick-named, might
flagellate themselves. This procession appears to have first
been introduced in Eome in 1260, and Jaques Boileau tells us
that Saint Dominic redeemed his own and the sins of the
people, by administering to himself in the space of ten days,
300,000 strokes with a scourge ; that the saint was m
earnest may be inferred from the fact of the skin of his back
becoming perfectly blackened and impervious to the
slightest sensibility.

122

Clement VI. suppressed these abominable practices within
his dominions, but they still lingered in these islands until 1864.

A procession which every year attracts large gatherings
of country people is one held on the fifth Sunday after
Easter, and issues from the church of Esperan9a.

The figure of the Saviour, borne usually by Michaelense
notabilities, was a gift from one of the early popes to the
first nuns who inhabited the adjoining convent. In its left
hand is placed a staff set all over with gems, said to have
cost £6,700. Covering the image, as if to hide its execrable
workmanship, are innumerable jewels of all kinds, the
superstitious offerings of hope or fear from devotees in
Portugal, Brazil and the colonies. It is difficult to realise
that this jewelry represents a value of j890,000; but such is
the estimated worth by competent authorities. These
accumulated offerings have always been in the keeping of
the nuns of the Esperan9a Convent, who must have ex-
perienced sore temptations anent this charge when the
Government in 1832, under the plea of cleansing these
Augean stables, confiscated the conventual property and
abolished for the future all similar institutions. Permission
was given to those of the sisterhood who wished to retire to
their homes, and pensions (which were often never paid)
granted to those who elected to remain in the nearly empty
buildings. In some instances the secularisation of these
vast properties was stayed during the lifetime of the inmates,
but such concessions were exceptional.

This figure of the Christ is endowed by the priests with
most miraculous powers. One one occasion, it is reputed to
have descended from its elevated niche, and located itself
behind a door to prevent the entry of some thieves who
contemplated a midnight burglary and robbery of his
valuables. On another, he is credited with having induced
a most violent colic in a lady devotee who was a little
behind with her donations, to compel her to present the
church with a silver candelabra.

123

A considerable and lucrative trade in relics is carried on
in this extinct convent ; one of the most miraculously
gifted articles being a ribbon called the " Medida do Santo
Christo," or measure of the blessed Christ, one of which is
possessed and religiously preserved by almost every family
in case of serious illness, when they tie the ribbon round
their persons, and thus hope to escape the clutches of
death. Almost every night, numbers of women may be seen
laboriously mounting on their knees, the stone steps leading
to the church where this " Santo Christo dos Milagres ^'reposes.
Multitudes of people come from all parts of the island to
attend the annual procession of this image, which is borne
on the shoulders of the most notable inhabitants, and under
the bier or stand on which it rests, oftentimes walk lady
penitents, members of the best families, in fulfilment of
some vow. When a maiden is desirous to know what sort
of news she will receive from her absent lover, she proceeds
on foot at night, silently praying to the church where this
famous figure is located, accompanied by a female friend
who walks some little distance behind, the better to catch
the remarks which may fall upon their ears, uttered by other
perambulators in the streets, or inhabitants of the houses
they may pass by. On their return home, they string
together what they have heard, and thence deduce the
nature of the communication from the absent one.

The convent of Esperanga was founded in 1541, and
contained 102 nuns and 57 novitiates and servants.

The convent of S. Francisco was the finest in the island ;
it was commenced in 1709, and cost more than 120,000
crusados, an immense sum at that time ; its revenue, like
that of Esperan9a, was very large.

Within the precincts of Ponta Delgada are still to be seen
the now deserted three convents and four monasteries,
besides three " recolhimentos," to which ladies might retire
who did not care to take the veil ; also no less than twenty-
eight churches — all these religious institutions being richly

124

endowed and supporting at the time of their prosperity 9460
nuns, monks and priests — veritable drones, who maintained
themselves on their neighbours' industry.

The orders of friars established in these islands were
confined to the Mendicant, Dominicans, Franciscans and
Capucins — a most useless fraternity, regular Friar Tucks,
who lived upon the community, and did little or no good.
They amassed immense wealth, and their huge establishments
stud the most fertile parts of the country.

The convents, if useless and pernicious, had at least the
merit of purveying the public and visitors with exquisitely-
made feather flowers, scarcely comparable to those made by
the Mexicans and Brazilians, but still close imitations of
nature. They also tiumed out perfect phenomenal pro-
ductions, in the way of numerous kinds of preserves and
sweetmeats, the ordering of which cunningly-made con-
fections served very often as excuses for naughty flirtations
with pretty nuns, who could only openly be interviewed,
ensconced behind massive iron gratings. It was whispered,
however, that Cupid was gate-keeper, and could gain ad-
mittance into the " sacred penetralia," and there would seem
to be too good foundation for the taunt. Here, as elsewhere,
we fijid that " love laughs at locksmiths." On procession
days a vast consumption of confetti goes on, the convents
formerly supplying the best ; the streets on these occasions
ring with the cries of vendors of " confeitos e amendoas,"
for which these black-eyed Azoreans have a passionate fond-
ness, paying the penalty in attacks of indigestion and the
ruin of beautiful teeth.

As in the Levant, a great feature on gala days in these
islands are the deafening rockets sent up in showers, and
without which no ceremony of this kind is considered com-
plete. These rockets are manufactured in the outskirts of
the city ; the " sticks " are formed from the young reeds of
the Arundo donax, enveloping at the upper end a fuse of the
same cane, to which are attached five small twine-covered

125

bombs, very ingeniously made, and which go off with the
report of a musket ; fortunately the great height to which
they ascend lessens their effect. The careless manner in
which huge bundles of these rockets are handled and carried
about, frequently leads to personal injury. Not very long
ago, a mass of them fastened underneath a country cart
loaded with gavela — the leaf of the maize, used here as hay
— accidentally ignited and flew in all directions, seriously
wounding the drover and his oxen, and setting the contents
of the cart on fire. It is common to see a mule laden with
these mischievous engines pass along, with the driver on top,
placidly smoking his cigarette.

Other active agents in all these festivities are the
church bells, which peal loud and discordant changes,
maddening to weak and sensitive nerves, and which are
unhappily becoming so much the fashion in our own densely
populated cities at home. Surely Moses never contemplated
this state of things when he ordered the more tremulous
harmony of silver trumpets to be sounded at the time of
sacrifice. From these must, however, be excepted the
Trindades chime, pealing out the knell of parting day, and
sending forth the evening benison, at the sound of which
it is pleasant to see bands of labourers journeying home
from their days' work, doff their caps, and devoutly repeat
their "Ave Marias," showing that these poor sons of toil,
neglected as they are, and without the slightest religious
instruction from their pastors, yet possess much innate
reverential feeling. Would that it could be fully worked
upon !

How different this from the etnbruted and ruffianly
language heard any evening in our crowded English streets,
profaning the air and rendering it impossible for decent
ears to escape being shocked.

The " Collegio," or College of the Jesuits, is well worth
visiting on account of the excellent wood-carving in the
interior. The building stands on the site of an old church,

126

erected in 1592 ; the present structure, however, dates from
1625, and the stone ornamentation of its fa9ade is
remarkable.

In the extinct Augustine monastery, now known as the
Graga, a spacious building erected in 1606, a very interesting
natural history collection is being formed, which will prove
invaluable to future students of Azorean fauna, &c. It
already possesses some rare ornithological specimens found
in this and neighbouring islands, and examples of fossil
marine mullusca from Santa Maria. Here are to be seen
the rare Sylvia atricajpilla (touto vinagreiro), Pyrrhula
murina fpriolo), Oriolus galbula (papa hgos), Plectrophanes
nivalis (frigueirao), Qtus vulgaris (mocho), and interesting-
examples of migratory and stray birds from the African or
American continents, occasionally shot in the little fre-
quented lakes in the interior during winter time, and which
must not be confounded with the local and permanent avi-
fauna. Shells of the nautilus {N. pompilius and Ocythce tuber-
culatus), occasionally picked up on the shore, are shown, but
it is seldom that these beautiful objects are found entire
on this iron-bound coast.

The chief curator is Dr. Carlos Machado, to whom the
honor is due of the inception of this useful institution.
Aided entirely by private donations, and with the enthu-
siastic aid of his assistant, Silr. A. de Yasconcellos, he has
succeeded in collecting, preserving, and classifying in a more
than creditable manner the finest assemblage of Azorean
birds and natural history objects ever yet brought together.
Duplicates of these will be readily exchanged for examples
from other countries, the limited means at the disposal of
the curator preventing acquisitions by purchase.

Under the same roof is the Lyceo or Alma Mater, where
the Ponta Delgada youth of the more necessitous middle
class receive free instruction.

In the entire archipelago there are only 125 elementary
schools, of which S. Miguel possesses 41 ; but in respect

127

of educational matters, very little progress has been made
amongst the working class during the past 30 years.

Here nlso is the public library, open on all days of the
week, except Saint days. It was formed in 1843 with 5,000
volumes, taken from the extinct convents, other 5,000
volumes, chiefly theological, from the same source being
added a few years later. Contributions have subsequently
been made by private donors and purchases, chief among
the former being Snr. Jose do Canto, who has presented the
library with several thousand books —many being rare works
upon the history of the islands.

The obliging custodian. Dr. Francisco da Silva Cabral, is
ever ready to afford information to visitors seeking it.

In another part of the same building a well appointed
meteorological observatory has for some time been
established, where important data has been collected.

Ponta Delgada possesses a capital theatre (Theatro Es-
peran9a), completed in 1865 at a cost of £5,000, for which a
company was formed, the shares being readily subscribed by
the patriotic and pleasure-loving community ; it is capable
of comfortably accommodating 700 persons. Now and then
a speculative operatic or dramatic company will come over
from Lisbon, and electrify the unaccustomed Michaelenses
with the splendour of their (mediocre) performances,
achieving scenic triumphs which repay them well for their
trouble. Occasionally, too, amateur concerts, reflecting the
greatest credit on the performers, are held on its boards, to
assist some charitable purpose. The Portuguese are very
proficient and clever musicians, evincing considerable taste
and execution. As part of these programmes, original
poetical recitations sometimes enter, the authors showing
no mean talent, and delivering their compositions with much
grace and verve, and in the true lyric lilt.

As in the case of the streets and many public and private
buildings, the theatre is lighted up by gas.

The shire of Ponta Delgada comprises four comarcas or

128

districts, i.e., Ponta Delgada, with a conselho or township
of the same name ; Ribeira Grande with two townships,
Ribeira Grande and Villa do Nordeste ; Villa Franca with
four townships, Agua do Pao, Lagoa, Villa da Povoacao and
Villa Franca do Campo. Included in this district or shire
of Ponta Delgada is Villa do Porto, in the neighbouring
island of St. Marj, with only one township of the same
name.

The city of Ponta Delgada is divided into three fregue-
zias or parishes.

The appearance of some of the principal streets, and
the comfort of the dwelling-houses in them, is much im-
paired by many of the latter having their rez de chaussee
occupied by unattractive shops, not always possessing the
choicest of articles in stock ; of course in the outskirts of
the town, where most of the few English people here reside,
this drawback does not occur.

The houses themselves, although in the bare and cold
Tuscan style which characterises and disfigures Portuguese
architecture in general, are solidly built of basaltic stone,
with well-proportioned and lofty rooms.

The old Arabesque habit of narrowing the streets for
shade, though possessing undeniable advantages in excessively
hot climates, is altogether out of place in this temperate
zone, and it is satisfactory to observe that, wherever possible,
the islanders are substituting for these broad and handsome
streets. The favorite old custom of securing to every house
extensive gardens, even now tenaciously clung to, must have
greatly impeded the planning of the city, and it is surprising
how regularly laid out it is, comparing very favourably, both
in this respect and in its cleanliness, with any town of
similar dimensions in Portugal or any other European state.

The town is amply supplied with stores, where most of
the necessaries and many of the luxuries of life can be
purchased.

For the sale of cottons, woollens and clothing there are

129

at present 23 sho^Ds; haberdashery 18; apothecai ire send
groceries and liquids 139; bakers 10; leather dealers fruit
goldsmiths 1 (besides 3 working gold and silversmiths)
ironmongers 8 ; limekilns 4 ; nail cutters 1 ; soap-makers 1 ; -
tobacco manufacturers 4 (besides 7 shops for the sale of
tobaccoj ; distilleries 5 ; butchers ] 2 ; hat shop 1 (ex-
clusively), but hats are also sold in other goods stores ;
bootmakers, 15 ; tailors, 8 ; besides numerous other smaller
establishments.

One of the most praisev^orthy institutions in the island
is the hospital " da Misericordia " — a huge pile, once a
Franciscan monastery, but since greatly enlarged and made
capable of receiving nearly 400 in-door patients. It is a
noble building, which would be a credit to any continental
town. The infirmaries are spacious and lofty and the
hygienic arrangements bear favourable comparison with the
best of similar establishments in Portugal. The income is
derived from investments in landed and other property in
the island, bequeathed to the hospital at various times.

In the year 1882-83, notwithstanding the decline in the
prosperity of the island, this revenue amounted to £6,136,
and the expenditure to £5,500. The number of patients
treated was 2,905, the death rate amounting to 3*25 per
cent.

The establishment, as the above figures testify, affords a
great deal of out-door relief and mainly supports the island
prisoners.

It also maintains a convalescent branch at the Furnas,
where, on an average, 1 50 cases, mostly rheumatic, are yearly
sent for the thermal baths there.

Besides this hospital, but altogether disconnected with
it, are some half-dozen almonries or irmandades for succour-
ing the poor and sick. These are supported entirely by
voluntary contributions, in spite of which, however, the
number of loathsome beggars haunting the streets is com-
paratively large, the absence of mendicity control of any

130

distrjor asylums to harbour tiie halt and blind, causes them
of /eset every passer-by with reiterated cries of " Oh senhor,
Eaa esmolinha/'

I^owhere is Belisarius a pleasant sight, but here least of
all, where in contrast with a bountiful nature, his abject
and filthy appearance shocks and saddens.

A very useful law existed in Portugal as far back as 1544,
whereby all beggars were compelled to learn and ply some
fitting trade, that reserved for the blind being the working
of bellows at blacksmiths' forges. This salutary law, how-
ever, dropped out of custom and was never revived, and the
beggars have it all their own way now. Custom would
appear to have made the Portuguese callous about the remains
of their dead. In the Cemiterio dos Prazeres in Lisbon, a
medical student may easily pick up an anatomical specimen
lying about after an old grave has been opened. This arises
from the habit of burying twenty or more bodies of those
too poor to pay for private interment, in a deep " valla," as
these pits are called, which, after a period of at most five
years, are re-opened, the contents burned in a heap and the
hideous grave again used for fresh bodies. It is also
customary for the wealthier classes in Portugal to exhume
the remains of their relatives after a lapse of two or three
years, breaking the limbs up at the joints and placing them
in small boxes or children's coffins, which ultimately rest on
shelves in the family vault.

Surely the advocates of cremation have a powerful
argument in these reprehensible practices, which are
fortunately seldom witnessed in the islands ; still, there is
much room for improvement in the manner in which the
poor here are consigned to their last resting place.

The sympathetic nature of the Portuguese was quick to
adopt an exquisitely kind and interesting custom which
obtains in Hindustan. On the occurrence of a death, the
family not only preserve a strict seclusion for a few days,
but the entire household abstains from work ; no cooking

131

even being done ; the neiglibonrs and friends therefore send
in trays generously laden with cooked meats and fruit
to supply the household wants.

Until the time of Dom Manoel (1495), white was worn
as mourning throughout Portugal, and down to 1521 (the
reign of John III.) women known as Pranteadeiras or
mourners were hired to wail over the dead.

The average Azorean padre, belonging as a rule to the
bourgeois class, is a good-natured fellow enough, with no
superabundance of piety or pretence to morality, and has
never been accused of intellectual superiority. The
following perfectly true story will, however, show that
he is not devoid of rude, common sense. The argument
turning upon the infallibility of the Pope, his reverence,
who should have maintained this fundamental dogma
of his church, openly and strongly expressed an opposite
opinion, and clenched his adversary's argument by exclaim-
ing, '' Oh senhor, um homem com tripas, infallivel ! " (Oh sir,
a man possessing the bowels of poor humanity, infallible !)
Only a decade ago, it was customary for the wealthier families
to retain the services of a priest, who, besides officiating in
the adjoining chapel, was expected, when the weather
was cold and damj), to occupy the master's bed for a short
time prior to the latter retiring there with his lady, so that
it might be warmed for them.

Warming pans are things unknown in this country,
but Azorean padres are generally verging upon obesity.

Madame Rattazzi in her inimitable " Portugal a vol-
d'oiseau,^' exactly and amusingly delineates the character
of the Portuguese padre, when she says — " Dans les rues, il
se promene en bourgeois ; il frequente les theatres, fume,
va dans le monde, cause, ne s'exclut pas delasociete; en
un mot, il se fait meme quelque-fois tout doucement et
tout discretement une famille, s'il habite la campagne."

Caves are now recognised as a common feature in
volcanic countries, and are present in a marked degree in

132

these islands. The theory, as Sir Charles Lyell tell ns, is
that they have been produced by the hardening of the lava
during the escape of great volumes of elastic fluids, which
are often discharged for many days in succession after the
crisis of the eruption is over. There are some very extensive
galleries which would rejoice the heart of any " marchand
de champignons," in a field in the Eua Formosa, the
entrance to which is close to the road and easy of access.
Opening out from the sides of a wide circular space are
three large vaulted orifices leading into as many separate
galleries, one extending in a northerly, the other two running
almost parellel in a southerly direction for a considerable
distance, presumably to the coast. They are difficult of
exploration for more than a few hundred yards, the ground
being covered with variousty-sized masses of broken lava,
most of which, disintegrated by the constant damp, have fallen
from above. Hanging from the roof are seen pointed lava
knobs of all dimensions, looking as if a sudden icy blast had
cooled the molten and falling drops; on every side the
torches, absolutely indispensable, light up the silvery
particles of selenite, making them sparkle like brilliants.
Close to the entrance, the northern cave is quite twenty feet
high and thirty feet broad, with a perfectly level floor, and
if properly explored, would in all probability be found to
join another gallery, the entrance to which is in a garden,
recently belonging to Mrs. Brander, in the Forral do
Carvao, and if so, would extend for several miles inland.
The two southern caves apparently communicate with two
corresponding ones, the openings of which are to be found in
a field on the opposite side of the road, but are almost blocked
up with fallen earth ; from what can be seen of them, they
apparently run down to the shore at Santa Clara. It is said
that some of these caves, easily accessible from the coast,
were formerly the resort of bands of smugglers, and that
many an island fortune owes its origin to the nefarious trade
they carried on.

133

Perhaps the most recent instance on record of the
formation of similar galleries is mentioned by Miss Bird, in
her work on the Sandwich Islands, where she met European
settlers, who told her they had traced a river of lava burrowmg
its way 1,500 feet below the surface in the island of Hilo,
and seen it emerge, break over a precipice and fall hissing
into the ocean. In the same island, the ground south of
Hilo burst open with a crash and roar. The molten river,
after travelling underground for twenty miles, emerged
through a fissure with a tremendous force and volume ; it
was in a pastoral region supposed to be at rest for ever.
Along the south-western shore of St. Michael, there are
several of these underground openings through which the
lava from the volcano of Sete Cidades flowed into the sea.

Ponta Delgada has its baracao, or fish market, where, in
early morning, a variety of the finny tribe may be seen,
comprising the cherne, bicuda, garoujpa, bezugo, tainha, John
dory, bonito, sardine, pilchard, red mullet, cray fish, conger
eel (whose size makes one no longer doubt the existence of
the sea serpent), and other kinds of fish, to which the natives
give peculiar names. The bonito (]pelamys sarda) if much
indulged in, produces a kind of nettle-rash ; in Madeira,
even leprosy is attributed to the too great indulgence in this
coarse food by the poor. Sometimes the appearance in these
waters of some husfe baskinof shark or other monster of the
deep scares away all small fish, and the baracao becomes
deserted. The fishermen then apply themselves to the
capture of bodos, toninhas, and other oil-giving fish.

The polvo, or Octopus vulgaris, is very common amongst
the rocks, but generally of small size. At night, its highly
phosphorescent trail may be seen flashing across the pools.
The flesh is by no means despised here.

The delicious edible, or green turtle (Chelone viridis) is
occasionally caught, but more often the hawk's-bill (0. imbri-
cata), which, though not so good for eating, supplies the
tortoise-shell of commerce. I believe the islanders must be

134

unaware of its value, for they always throw away the
carapace.

Notwithstanding the wealth of fish, a great deal of salt
cod — the famous bacalhao — almost exclusively Newfound-
land, is yearly imported from England. The history of this
cod fishery is very curious. In 1353 a treaty to hold good
for 50 years was entered into between Dom Affonso IV.
(the Bold), of Portugal, and Edward III. of England, where-
by Portuguese fishermen " puissent venir et pecher fraunche-
ment et sauvement en les portz d'Engleterre et de Bretagne,
et en toux les autres lieux et portz, ou ils vourront, paiantz les
droits et les custumes a les seignurz du pays." The fish
caught was chiefly cod, which the Portuguese salted, and
so successful were they, that not only did they supply their
own country, but England and other states as well. This
trade with Great Britain died away about 1590, when the
process of salt-making became more generally known, and
the English fishermen commenced to salt their own fish.
To the Portuguese, however, remains the credit of first
establishing the Newfoundland fisheries,^ definitely dis-

* Previous to the voyage of the Brothers Vareiro, Cabot had caught sight, on
ths 24th June, 1497, of a headland, to which he gave the name of Bonavista, and
which proved to be a part of the island of Newfoundland. According to another
account "Newfoundland was next visited by Cotorial, a Portuguese, and Cartier, a,
French navigator. Its value as a fishing station being ascertained by them, they
gave to it a name (Bacalao) which signifies in the Indian language, a cod-fish ; and
its banks soon became a favourite resort during the summer months of fishermen
from all nations." — (Gleig.) That Gaspar Corte-Real, son of JoSo Yaz Corte-
Ileal, the Captain-Donatary of the islands of Terceira and St. George, visited
Newfoundland in 1500, there can be no doubt; sailing from Lisbon in the summer
of that year, he reached, after several month's wanderings in a westerly direction,
a land which appeared to him so fresh and green, that he bestowed upon it the
name "Terra Verde,'' which subsequently appeared on the maps of that period as
*' Terra dos Corte-Reaes." Many examples of the natural productions of this
" Terra Nova" were brought to Lisbon, and on the 15th May of 1501, Gaspar
Corte-Real sailed again from the Tagus with a fully equipped expedition, to more
fully explore and settle his new found land ; but from this second voyage he never
returned. Miguel Corte-Real, anxious to learn his brother's fate, fitted out two

135

covered in the beginning of the sixteenth century by the
expedition which sailed from Aveiro under the command of
the Brothers Yareiro, and named by them the Terra Nova.
The cod fisheries off the coast were soon after established,
and for a century continued to give employment to large
fleets of vessels which annually repaired to the banks from
the Tagus, until Newfoundland passed into the hands of the
English. At the present time the tables have completely
turned, and Portugal ever since the loss of that colony has
imported salt cod to the average value of, in recent times,
a quarter of a million sterling every year.

There is also a cattle market held on Sundays not far
from the English church, where pigs, too, form a conspicuous
commodity.

Of markets for vegetables and general produce, there are
two ; Corpo Santo and Graca, the latter being the most
frequented ; it is planted with acacia trees, and round its
three sides are covered booths and stalls, where meat, bread
and various articles are sold. Amongst the res mercatoria
offered on Fridays and Sundays — the regular market days — ■
may be noticed in their proper seasons, baskets full of the
golden nespera or loquot, piles of the violet elliptic-shaped
maracuja or granadilla {Passiflora edidis), the capucho or
Cape gooseberry [Physalis ijuhescens), yfiih.\i^ delicate gauze-
like covering, the fruit, par excellence, for preserves ; bas-
kets of sweetly perfumed mountain strawberries, vieing
with the handsomer, but less tasty, cultivated ones, grown
round the estufas. Here may be seen perfect mountains of
melons [Ciicumis melo), and watermelons {Cucurhita citrillus).
The ara9a, {Psidium littorcde) and ara9azH0, of the Brazilian
and China species (a fruiting shrub of the myrtle family) ;

naos, and set sail for the west on the 10th May, 1.502, but was never again heard
of. D. Manuel, the king, Avho greatly esteemed the Corte-Reaes, sent out two
other ships in search of them in 1503, but of these also no tidings ever reached

Portugal.

136

grapes, generally of the American scented or Isabel variety ;
oranges of the choicest kinds for which sometimes two vin-
tens each are unblushingly asked in this land of the citrus ;
huge bunches of bananas (Musa paradisiaca) , which, from
having the sign of the cross at the apex, is held by Catholics
to be the fruit with which Eve tempted the weak Adam —
delicious as only you can have them in their native clime ;
apples and pears, peaches and plums, in variety too numerous
to mention ; apricots from Pico, brought over in open boats
by the intrepid sons of old Christiano ; and indiscriminately
mixed up with all these may be seen the splendid red
pimentao,^ beloved of the Portuguese, and many varieties of
chillies and peppers {Capsicum frutescens) , The curious
marrow-flavoured caiota, delicious in stews when freshly
gathered and young ; artichokes, the egg plant, so useful
for entrees ; immense bogangos {Cucurhita pepo) and abobaras
(pumpkins) ; also calabashes and bottle gourds (G. lagenaria) ,
much used for preserving ; huge sweet potatoes, tomatoes,
both red and yellow and of all sizes ; and yams from the
Furnas. Here and there are sacks full of bright yellow tramo90
cortido, the pickled lupin bean of which all classes here and
in Portugal are so fond. To foreigners it is unpalatable, but
to judge from the quantities the natives eat, it must be
perfectly wholesome and digestible.

There are also poultry of all kinds, brought from distant
parts of the country, hung by the legs to poles slung across
men's shoulders in a manner which would give our Society
for the Suppression of Cruelty to Animals, much useful
occupation. Besides the various fruits above enumerated,
they grow the annona or custard apple [A. reticulata) ;
guava [Psidium pyriferum or Cattleianum) ; jambro or rose

• Almost all the varieties of chillies {Capsicum attnitiim, Lin. and C. fasti-
giatum, Blume) are to be found here ; in the large Pimentao the acrid resin
[capsicine] being almost entirely absent, allows of their being largely eaten in
stews, and plainly boiled.

137

apple {Jamhosa vulgaris), the blossom of which is so beautiful,
and a considerable variety of the green and black Turkey
figs (Ficus carica). The pomegranate, emblem of Hymen,
also thrives well.

A beautiful tree which grows in all these islands with
remarkable luxuriance, producing a delicious sub-acid fruit,
already mentioned, is the nespera or Eriohotrya Jajjonica,
common all over China (where it is known as the pi-pa)
and native to Japan. It grows well in India and southern
Europe ; and even in the botanical gardens at Kew it may
be seen growing against a sheltered wall out of doors, but
never fruits there ; the loquot, by which it is known in
India and England, was the name originally given it in
Canton.

The caiota referred to above is the chayote (Sechium
edule and Chayotis eclulis, Jacq.), a climbing plant of the
cucurbit family 5 it is very prolific, a single plant yielding
in the first year from 80 to 100 pear-shaped pints. It is
said to have been a favourite vegetable with the Aztecs, who
cultivated it extensively, calling it chayotti : the root
tubercles contain 20 per cent, of starch, but this valuable
rhizome is never utilised in the islands.

The Portuguese are extremely fond of flowers, and in
such a climate as this, everything thrives with tropical
luxuriance. Ponta Delgada can therefore boast of some
of the most beautiful gardens in the world. The difficulty
is not how to preserve and rear plants of temperate and even
tropical climes, but to keep them from growing beyond all
bounds. A Portuguese garden would be incomplete without
its alecrim [Lantana mecrophylla, Martins), or scented heath
shrub, which the ladies here dub "^ sempre noiva " (ever a
bride), from the profusion and permanence of its small
white blossom. The cottagers, too, seem passionately fond
of the bonina or boliana {Galendula suffruticosa) or common
marigold, for its deep yellow flowers are everywhere seen.
The fragrant rosa de Alexandria, double red and striped

138

York and Lancaster rose, too, has always a corner reserved
for it in the peasant's garden ; its powerful perfume giving
rise to the saying — " onde esta logo penetra " ; and, greater
favourite perhaps than any, the mangericao (Ocymum
hasilicum) or sweet-scented basil of which the peasant
facetiously sings : —

A flor do mangericao

Nao abre senao de noute,
Para nao dar a saber

Os seus amores a oiitrem.

(The sweet "gentle basil" flower

Opens not, except at night ;
Fearing, lest others her loves

May view in the garish light.)

Unquestionably, the finest of these gardens are those of
Snr. Jose do Canto, and the late Snr. Antonio Borges, in the
laying out of which, and introducing new plants and trees,
many thousands of pounds sterling have been expended. In
Snr. Jose do Canto's collection alone some 5,000 species new
to the island have been introduced, but the close proximity
in which the outdoor portions of these were originally planted
has, in a measure, prevented their proper development, and
only by going in among the dense shrubbery can the
botanical wealth collected there be fully appreciated.

At the Furnas, on a plantation bordering the lake, the
same gentleman has formed a perfectly unique arboretum,
embracing examples of forest and ornamental trees from
almost every country in the world, and these, being less
thickly planted, have attained extraordinary proportions —
trees from North America and equally cold climes vieing
with those of Australia, India, Japan and China, as to which
shall outstrip the other.

The system adopted by Snr. Antonio Borges, if more
elaborate and in greater taste, has given better results.
Removing and collecting together the rocky mantle which
here and there covered his grounds, he formed with this
debris picturesque nooks and grottoes where New Zealand

130

and other arborescent ferns seem to have found then*
habitats and thrive to perfection.

The deep alluvial soil of the cleared lands, rich in
volcanic detritus, gives an additional impetus to whatever
is therein planted, and being judiciously distanced to allow
freedom of growth, many varieties of palms and trees from
temperate and sub-tropical zones are here to be seen grow-
ing in unrestrained luxuriance. Towering conspicuous
above their congeners, in all these gardens are the
araucarias (Excelsa), rearing their graceful heads a hundred
feet high;, and in twenty years time rivalling forest trees in
the girth of their boles. Now and then one of these giants
is seen decapitated, telling of the severe winter gales.
Less majestic, but equally beautiful, grows the species
imhrlcata or hrasiliensis. Examples may here be seen of the
graceful cedros de Busaco (Giipressns lusitanica, VHeritier,
and G, glame of LamarkJ , from the famous avenue leading to
the old Carmelite Convent of Busaco, propagated from trees
said to have been brought there originally from the high
mountains near Groa in Portuguese India in the sixteenth
century. There is no evidence, however, that this was so,
and I believe that no similar tree is to be found in that
part of India, although we know the white cedar has its
habitat in China and Cochin China, and Thunberg des-
cribes a species of cypress as common to Japan. Goa being,
then, the junction for the richly-freightel East-India fleets
when homeward bound, many plants really native of China
or Japan (where Francis Xavier had already penetrated)
were doubtless r3gardod on their arrival in Europe as
coming from Hindosfcan, to the subsequent confusion of
botanists. The natives also have a habit of applying
the generic term " Cedro " to many coniferous trees, the
juniper varieties being thus misnamed, and even trees in
no way related to the coniferse.

It reflects creditably upon the bare-footed fraternity,
who were strongly represented in these islands as well as

140

Portugal's eastern colonies, that two valuable trees like this
cypress and the (China) orange should have appeared
simultaneously and for the first time in Portugal at the
head-quarters of the order at Busaco. A suggestion made
to me by Sir Joseph Hooker, and much more likely to be
correct, is that the " cedro de Busaco " was found growing
in the Azores by these Carmelite monks when the islands were
first colonized, and by them acclimatised on account of its
beauty in their grounds at Busaco ; from thence it spread to
Coimbra, Alcobaya, and other central parts of Portugal. In
the south it is quite unknown, and even round Lisbon it
does not thrive, a proof that it could never have thriven in
the climate of Goa. It would be singular indeed, if it could
be authenticated that this Azorean cedar, once so common,
but extirpated by the early settlers, had been accidentally
preserved in the mother country, and thence re-introduced
after the lapse of four centuries into its native soil.

Although numerous trunks of this tree have been
occasionally found in the islands, its identity has never been
properly established, but I believe it to be akin to, and to
closely resemble the Juniperus oxycedrics still to be found in
the almost inaccessible mountain fastnesses of Madeira, where
it once greatly abounded. In the pathetic tale of Robert
Machim and Anna d'Arfet, we read that Zarco, in 1419,
ordered the stately cedar tree, beneath which this devoted
but unhappy couple perished, to be cut down for the con-
struction of a small church to their memory, for which
purpose the wood supplied by this one specimen amply
sufficed.

Besides these, there are other gardens, the owners of
which readily allow visitors to go over them. Amongst
them may be mentioned those belonging to Snr. Jose Jacomo
Correaand the Yiscount dasLaranjeiras ; in the latter are some
fine specimens of the eucalyptus and a palm tree 30 feet high,
with a trunk thirteen feet in girth — not at its base, but some
four feet from the ground. In the garden of Botelho, a

141

pleasant half -hour's drive in the outskirts of the town,
are two splendid magnolias of immense size and some fine
Australian banksias.

In a wood opposite this property is a crypt containing- a
rudely-carved recumbent figure in stone, representing " JS'ossa
Senhora da Lapa " — our Lady of the Grotto. Far back,
tradition says that a poor woman who lived very unhappily
with her husband, fled into the neighbouring woods to lead
a life of sanctity. No one knew her whereabouts, until a
hunter, whilst out in quest of coneys, stumbled across the
dead body of Nossa Senhora, and being of a devout disposi-
tion, and shocked at the saint's neglected plight, determined
to give her Christian burial in his own villajre.

This was no sooner effected, however, than, as in the
case of Buddha's tooth, signs were apparent of an unmis-
takable resurrection, and search being made, the Senhora
was found in the same identical place where first discovered.
Again she was carried to the grave, but her soul found no
rest therein, for three times she returned to the cherished
spot, where, at length, a shrine was erected over her, and she
has remained there ever since. To this, on the 28th Septem-
ber every year, a " romaria," or pilgrimage of her devotees,
takes place, when, many young people from the neighbouring
villages being present, the quiet locality is made lively with
their boisterous mirth. Not far from Botelho, at a place
called Maricas, in a garden which belonged to the late Snr.
A. J. Botelho, is a magnificent avenue of camellia trees
nearly 50 years old, and probably the largest to be seen in
the island. Close by is a pine-a^^ple house, where 2,000 pines
are yearly grown under the same roof.

In most of these gardens are clumps of bamboos {Bamhitsa
arundinacea) , tree ferns, pinnated, fan {Chamaerops Jnimilis)
and other palms and exotic growths in endless variety, which
— with such flowering plants as the shrubby mallow from
Syria (Hibiscics syriacus), Stephanotis jioribimda, the exquisite
white lily {Crinum asiaticum), a native of tropical Asia, the

142

beautiful varieties of the Ceylon Malastoma malahathrica
and numerous others — lend a character expected only in more
southern lands. In a garden in the E-ua da Lou9a may be seen a
clump of majestic palm trees {PJiwnixrecUnata) seemingly quite
at home in this congenial climate, their spreading hemispheri-
cal crowns forming conspicuous objects from almost every
point of view. These palm trees commemorate a thrilling story
of ninety years ago, which reads like a chapter out of the
''Arabian Mghts," and that my readers may view these
unique specimens with sufficient interest, I will give the
barest outlines of the romantic tale, as chronicled by
Padre Souza, Arabic interpreter to the king of Portugal
in 1793.

At the time when the French revolution was causing
rivers of blood to flow in the streets of Paris, a similar
agitation threatened to shake the empire of Morocco to its
very foundations. When the emperor, Sidi Mahomed Ben
Abdalk, died, leaving fourteen sons, he named as his suc-
cessor a favourite younger son, by name Molei Abdessalam,
who had performed a pilgrimage to Mecca. During his
travels he had contracted a severe ophthalmic affection,
which probably induced him to waive his claim to the
throne in favour of an elder brother, Molei Eliazid,
who caused himself to be proclaimed emperor, Abdessalam
retiring to Tafilet, where he intended to live in peace.
Another brother, however, Molei Haxem, appeared in the
field to dispute the succession, and with such fury was the
struggle carried on, that on one occasion the two brothers,
who headed their respective partisans, met in personal
combat, and so seriously wounded each other as to give rise
to the report that both had perished in the battle; thereupon
another of the late emperor's fourteen sons, Molei Salema,
who was governor of Tangiers, proclaimed himself emperor
and received the submission of the people of Fez. His two
other brothers having meanwhile recovered from their
wounds, again took the field, and the country became divided

143

into three armed camps. Under these circumstances, Molei
Abdessalam, with a numerous retinue and the whole of his
family, retired for greater safety to the seaport of Agadir
or Santa Cruz, situated in the extreme south of the province
of Sus ; from here he purposed transferring* his family to
the port of Rabat or Sale, and with this intention put them
on board a small vessel which he had purchased at Santa
Cruz, meaning to follow himself in another. The ship sailed
on the 13th of April, 1793, having on board no less than 221
persons ; among these were the princess Laila Amina, the
chief wife of Abdessalam, three daughters and two sons of
the prince, but by different mothers, nine of his lesser
wives and four princesses of the blood royal, one of
whom was Nana Rabu, the sultana of the late emperor.
The ship, a brigantine, had however, barely put to sea,
when a violent storm carried her entirely out of her course,
and on the 1 9th of April she cast anchor in the Port of
Funchal, in the island of Madeira. The governor, hearing
of the distressed and crowded condition of the passengers,
placed two other vessels at the disposal of the royal
passengers, with abundance of provisions and water,
of which they were greatly in need ; they had not,
however, proceeded far, when another storm drove them to
the Azores, and on the 19th June the ships cast
anchor off Ponta Delgada. After taking in provisions
and water, they once more essayed their return voyage,
but a south-westerly gale drove one of the vessels on
shore, all lives being saved ; the other one, after cruising
about for some days, anchored again in the roads — this
time to land the princess Amina and one of her atten-
dants. Both were seriously ill, the latter dying a few
days afterwards. Here these unfortunate j^eople remained
twenty-eight days, being hospitably entertained by
the authorities. To commemorate their visit, the princess,
accompanied by eighteen of her female attendants, all
closely veiled, and by many of the chief ladies of

144

Ponta Delgada, proceeded to a small garden (now belong-
ing to Senhora Berquo) adjoining the clnb bouse, and in
tbe E,ua da Lou9a, where the princess Amina with her
own hands planted a yonng palm tree {Phoenix reclinata),
which soon grew apace, its trunk attaining a height
of 52 i feet and S9h inches in circumference. Eighty-
three years later, on the 29th November, 1876, this
magnificent native of the desert was blown down by a gale
of wind, leaving however a clump of seven younger trees
around its site, and which now form quite a conspicuous
feature in the landscape of Ponta Delgada as viewed from
the sea. Sailing from St. Michael's in the beginning of
July, our Moorish friends were compelled through stress
of weather to put into Cascaes in the Tagus, where they
arrived on the 13th of that month. Hearing of their sad
adventures, and touched by the tale of their wanderings,
the Portuguese royal family invited the princess Amina and
her suite to visit them at the palace of Queluz, which they
did, landing on the 30th July in the royal barges at
Belem amidst great pomp and a salute of twenty-one guns,
being subsequently entertained until their departure at the
palace of Necessidades. On the 9th August, 1793, our
wanderers again embarked on board the Portuguese ships
supplied by the government, and, escorted by the man-
of-war " Medusa," left the Tagus under another salute
of twenty-one guns from the tower S. Juliao, their destina-
tion being Tangiers, where, let us hope, they arrived in
safety.

It is seldom that ordinary trees are ever met with in this
island fifty years old, as, on attaining sufficient girth, they
are at once cut down for boxwood and other purposes ; if
spared the woodman's axe, they grow to an unusual size. In
a garden belonging to Senhora Berquo in the town, is a noble
specimen of the laurel, and near it a glorious magnolia — the
height and thickness of one of the full-grown oak trees in
Richmond Park. Overshadowing the roadway may often be

145

seen the Judas tree fCereis siliquastrum) , which, in spring,
is a mass of beautiful purple blossom.

Napoleon, at St. Helena, is said to have once exclaimed —
" A I'odeur seule je devinerais la Corse, les yeux fermes."
I feel equally sure that any native of St. Michael could, if
suddenly transported thither, blind-fold, from the uttermost
parts of the earth, divine his whereabouts by means of the
indescribably delicious perfume of the incenso, orange, and
other trees, which in the full flush of bloom permeate the
air, in a manner surely unrivalled by "Araby the blest," and
realising the idea of the " Sabean gales and scents of
Paradise " poets love to sing about. The enjoyment, too,
of these green aisles is much enhanced by the numerous
birds of song, especially that of the green canary, which
Bory de Saint Vincent compared to the nightingale, and the
touto negro (black cap), and many other 'Hight-winged
Dryads of the groves " who flood the air with their exquisite
madrigals.

Long after St. Michael was first colonized, the green
canary was so plentiful and so appreciated in Portugal for
his song, that every year two vessels came to the island
expressly to carry back these little passengers to Lisbon,
their cargoes consisting of sweet potatoes.

These delightful songsters are unfortunately accused of
considerable destruction to the grain crops, and, with others
of their tribe, have long been proscribed by the Camara. An
ancient municipal decree taxed each proprietor of arable
land at the rate of five birds' heads per alqueire, and seven
per alqueire of vineyard or orange grove ; but it was soon
found more effective to offer a vintem or 20 reis per dozen
beaks of the following birds : the canario {Serinus canarius),
the merlo {Turdus merula), the priolo {Pyrrhula murina), the
vinagreira [Motacilla ruhecula), and the tintilhao {Fringilla
canariensis) .

A close examination of the trees and shrubs in these
gardens will often reveal the existence of numbers of the

146

brilliant-coloured larva of tlie death's-liead motli {Spliinx
atropiis), but they appear to cause very little injury to the
plants they feed upon.

Visitors cannot fail to observe, as dusk sets in, the
presence of large numbers of a small but particularly lively
bat ( Vesjpertilio Leisleri), a species common to the north-west
countries of Europe, and supposed to have been originally
accidentally introduced by the Flemish colonists.

Chapter X.

Excursions from Poxta Delgada — Protestant Church — Sete Cidades—

Country Seats — The Rocks and Hills and Mountain Lakes — Trout —

Ladeira do Ledo — Mato do Maranhao — Capellas — Island Dances and

Poetry— Caldeir AS da Ribeira Grande — Mineral Waters— Baths.

Yon cottager who weaves at her own door,

Pillow and bobbins all her little store,

Content, tho' mean —

Cooper.

Charming excursions in the immediate neighbourhood of
Ponta Delgada may be made to the summits of some hills
known as the Pico do Salamao, Pico Tosqueado, Pico do
Julio, and Pico da Castanheira, from all of which superb
views can be obtained of the surrounding country and coast —
the great Atlantic stretching away in illimitable distance
to the south, on which, in clear weather, the island of Santa
Maria in a south-easterly direction floats like a misty mass
some 44 miles away.

These rides or drives through the country are rendered
less interesting in consequence of the lofty walls with which
each villa or garden is jealously begirt ; the thongs of cacti,
fuchsias and delicate creepers ablaze with blossom, toppling
over and garnishing these lava barriers in wild profusion,
seeming to tantalize those fresh from northern climes with
the hidden wealth of foliage and flora within.

Along many of the by-ways and less frequented lanes
may be seen the beautiful Amaryllis helladona, in full
bloom upon a heap of rubbish, cast there as a weed from
some garden close by. The traveller, if out across country,
when the "pearl gray of morn "begins to show, may see flocks
of large, light-coloured birds, especially on recently ploughed
fields J these are sea gulls, reduced through the scarcity of

148

fish to seek food on land, and apparently too mucli absorbed
in their agricultural pursuits to readily observe the approach
of the stranger. These harmless birds should never be
molested, as they are simply on the hunb for grubs, and
are the farmer's best friends. It is a favourite Sunday
amusement with the island gamin to " fish " for these over-
confiding but greedy birds from the rocks in the harbour,
• v^^ith hook and raw flesh bait, which they readily swallow,
and are at once drawn in. The sport is both cruel and
wanton.

Within the precincts of the town is a smaller hill, known
as the Mae de Deos, which in former times was fortified, but
lonsr since dismantled. It is now crowned with the emblem
of peace, a small chapel dedicated to the " Mother of God."
From this monticule, a delightful stretch of country in the
vicinity of the city, with its mixture of urhs cum rure, lies
before you, and a good idea may be formed of the beauty of
this part of the island and the varied richness of its cultiva-
tion. The sloping sides of this mound have been orna-
mentally laid out, and fine examples of the aloe {Agave
americana) may generally be seen with their tall pyramidal
flower stems rising ten or fifteen feet ; also the prickly pear
or Indian fig {Opuntia vulgaris), fringed with its insipid but
thirst-quenching fruit, and many other varieties of cacti,
seemingly at home in this drier and poorer soil.

At the foot of this hill, on its northern side, stands the
protest ant church, a barn-like structure, erected in 1827, at
a time when Portugal would not allow such buildings to
assume the form of churches, or to use bells. During fifty
years or so, the English community here enjoyed the benefit
of a chaplain, who was paid by means of subscriptions
amongst the British residents and vessels entering the port,
the English government under the Consular Act paying an
equivalent sum. This was done away with in 1877, and for
many years no clergyman has oflB.ciated ; prayers are, how-
ever, read every Sunday morning by the consul, or in his

14^

absence, by one of the English, residents, and the services are
generally well attended.

The British colony in the island is fortunate in having
as its present consular representative a gentleman who
adds to no mean literary gifts the charm of affability and
unrestrained hospitality.

Very fair island-bred horses and ponies can be occasionally
purchased at prices ranging from £10 to £30. English
horses have from time to time been introduced, but the
defective stabling arrangements, the chief ventilation of
which is through the ceiling into the apartments above, and
the consequent high temperature, added to change of diet,
bring on lung affections, and the animals soon sicken and
die. You can never make a Portuguese understand that
horses, like human beings, require abundance of fresh air.
The poverty of fodder, and the difficulty of getting the
associated grasses of England to grow in the island, make
the want of a good and cheap substitute a strong necessity.
Nothing could more readily supply this want than the pine
fodder of Styria. In the hope that some of my friends may
be induced to utilize a not unimportant industry read}- to
hand, I here transcribe the manner in which pine-cake may
be made.

In the spring of the year, when the pine trees become
covered with young tender pins, they should be thinned and
trimmed, a process here known as " desbastar," and frequently
rendered necessary in consequence of their exuberant and
rapid growth.

The lopped branches are then hung or spread out in well
ventilated barns until the pins fall off; these are then
collected and thoroughly dried in ovens preparatory to
grinding. To every 25 lbs. of the flour, 1 lb. of salt is added,
and well mixed in, and the compound is then ready for use.
It is generally given as an adjunct with chaff, is grateful to
the animals, and is said to preserve them from lung affections.
Here, where immense quantities of this nutritious food, at

ISO

present utterly neglected, could be had for the mere gather-
ing, farmers would do well to turn their attention to its
use.

The ordinary means of locomotion in all these islands is
on donkeys, fed upon little else than green- stuffs, the poverty
of their owners preventing the luxury of grain. These
sturdy animals will, nevertheless, travel with heavy loads
twenty or thirty miles at a stretch with apparent ease. The
pace, however, is trying to one accustomed to more rapid
modes of transit, and a strong reflection of the quadruped's
patience is needed to go through a day's journey. The
roads all over the island are excellent, and the longer trips
may be broken by driving part of the way in mule-drawn
carriages, of which there are many on hire in Ponta Del-
gada.

Travellers in these islands cannot fail to notice numerous
circular mounds of beaten earth at the roadside corners of
fields. These are the " eiras," or threshing-floors of the
country. The natives are extremely fond of assisting in the
" trilhar," or treading operation. Two or three pairs of
oxen (always unmuzzled, according to the command in
Deuteronomy xxv., 4, " Thou shalt not muzzle the ox when
he tread eth out the corn ") are yoked to a common farm
sled, on which you and the driver sit or stand, as best you
can, and the oxen are then driven rapidly round and round
the eira, over the slippery straw, until the wheat has been
trodden out. A novice will find it no easy matter to keep
his hold on the inclined and quickly gliding plane, and
many amusing but harmless accidents occur. Subsequently
the winnowing of the grain is effected by erecting a raised
platform in the centre of the eira, from whence the grain is
flung down, the breeze carrying away the chaff.

Men may often be seen on these eiras threshing out
beai^s and other pulse with the flail of ancient days.

Taking one of these carriages and driving in a westerly
.direction along the coast, past the villages of Relva and

151

Feiteiras with their mile of human sties,"^ within which
the women may be seen grinding corn in their stone
querns, or seated at the doors, distaff and spindle in hand,
spinning as their sisters did in the days of the Csesars,
and inspiring a native bard to exclaim in ecstasy at the
sight,

Quem, me dera ser o linho
Que vos, menina, fiaes,
Que vos, dera tanto beijo
Como vos, no linho daes ;

which a feeble imitation may thus render —

Oh ! were I the flax

That thou spinnest, sweet girl,

I'd kiss thee as oft

As the threads your lips twine.

or with a child's head in their laps, occupied in the less
interesting but more absorbing occupation of hunting for
small game, that disgusting "120th part of an inch," the
abundance of which induced the wise Ynca Huayna Caapac
of Peru to impose a tribute " in kind " upon the inhabitants
of the province of Pastu, who were not remarkable for clean-
liness. Whether at these or more arduous tasks, the island
women often break out into song, for how true it is that

Song sweetens toil, how rude soe'er the sound,

All at her wheel the village maiden sings,
And as she turns the giddy circle round,

Revolves the sad vicissitude of things.

Here and there we pass splendid little bits of scenery, whose
faithful reproduction on canvas would make the fortune of
any aspiring E,.A., until reaching the steep narrow path
which leads up to the mountain ; here (donkeys having been
previously sent to await our arrival) we commence the slow
and difficult climb over the flank of the vast truncated cone.

* Some of the villages in this island extend for nearly three miles in length,
such as Arrifes, Bretanha, and Candelaria.

152

nearly five miles in circumference at its summit, within
which, is embosomed the lovely valley of the Sete Cidades or
seven cities. The origin of the name is wrapped in some
obscurity ; the old writers attribute it to seven concavities
which they say were observed after the great eruption already
mentioned, but this derivation is probably imaginary.
Possibly the fact of Lisbon being built, like Rome, '' on her
seven-hilled throne renowned," may account for the name,
or perhaps some island sage of the 15th century, haunted by
dreams of the Isla Antillia and its septem cidades (which in
turn may have had its origin in the Saviour's seven resting
places along the Yia Dolorosa to Calvary, or the last seven
words he uttered) sought thus to commemorate its mythical
existence ; or, again, the timorous explorers who first peered
into the dark abyss may have realized Dante's dream of the
seven infernos with the terrible mural inscription " Lasciate
ogni speranza voi ch'entrate ! "

It will be remembered that when Cabral, on his first
visit to S. Miguel, in 1444, left for Lisbon to prepare for its
definite colonization, his pilot had noted this western moun-
tain as his landmark, a probable indication that, prior to
the great eruption ^hich shortly afterwards caused its
destruction, this was at that time the highest point in the
island. An ascent of an hour and a half through wild but
beautiful country, the surface of which shows how the lava
welled in torrents over the crater brink, tearing up and
eroding into deep impenetrable dikes and gorges the moun-
tain sides, which

• Time but the impression stronger makes.
As streams their channels deeper wear,

brings us to the edge of the cone, 1,800 feet above the sea.
Here the view is really grand. In a vast hollow, 1,500 feet
in depth, lies a beautiful valley, in shape like an ellipse, the
most conspicuous feature in which are the two lakes already
mentioned, occupying two-thirds of its area, and fringed on
their western side by the white dot-like cottages of the

155

i-i

154

village, and on the north and east by the precipitous walls
of the crater, rising out of the water on that side to a
height of 2,700 feet. In all directions, on the inner and
outer sides of this huge concavity, are numerous crateriform
hills, looking at this distance insignificant, but really the,
shells of what must once have been large and terrible vol-
canoes. The absolute stillness around, the reflection of
passing clouds gliding in quick succession over the waters,
and the steep pine-covered banks, mirrored on the glass-like
surface of the lakes, impart to the whole scene an unreal
and ephemeral appearance, until a shrill "vamos para diante"
from your donkey boy, whose soul is above such trifles as
fine scenery, awakens you from your ecstasy and you reluc-
tantly commence the tortuous descent into the valley below.
In August last (1885) two carriages from Ponta Delgada
succeeded for the first time in reaching this valley ; the
route they took was by the Lomba dos Mosteiros, past Ceara
jind the road of Romangos. Arrived at the bottom, you
alight at a small, uncomfortable inn kept by one Travassos,
where travellers are put up ; but unless previous notice has
been given him of the intended visit, they will fare but in-
differently and feel inclined to parody the schoolboy's grace —

Chicken hot, chicken cold,
Chicken new, chicken old,
Chicken tender, chicken tough,
Of chicken we have had enough, —

for nothing is here obtainable but poultry, bread even having
to be brought from town. Travassos, however, is a very
willing and obliging fellow, and, proper attention being given
to the commissariat, a week or ten days may be spent very
pleasantly in exploring the lakes and surrounding heights,
with their beautiful pine-glades, all full of interest and un-
expected charms. A rickety boat owned by Travassos is at
the service of visitors, but as sudden squalls often arise, and
the larger lake especially becomes on these occasions flecked
with restless and even angry wavelets, it is wise not to

155

venture in uncertain weather far out in such an unsteady
craft.

In these waters are to be found innumerable golden carp
{Gyprinus auratus) introduced by the monks many years ago,
and more recently by Siir. Jose Maria Rapozo d'Amaral and
his son — the Gillaroo trout {Salmo stomachicus) , the brown
trout {S, fario), and the char {S. salvelinus) — all from ova
obtained from England or Germany. The size these fish
have here attained, in spite of the apparent scarcity of food
and grasses, is astonishing, and is certainly an inducement
to other wealthy proprietors to stock the numerous lakes in
the island with this valuable food supply. During the winter
months, wild duck, snipe, storks, and other migratory
grallatores, or waders, from colder climes, afford very good
shooting to those who can stand the wet and damp of the
valley at that time.

No signs are anywhere visible of volcanic activity in the
valley, but near the village of Mosteiros and at Ponta
Ferraria are two hot springs of alkaline sulphur water
issuing on the shore below high water mark.

The soil hereabouts being much mixed with pimiice, is
of slight agricultural value, but the late Snr. Antonio Borges
nevertheless managed to lay out a portion of his grounds
here very tastefully. He formed beautiful avenues with
geometric and artistic skill of the Gryptomeria japonica and
other trees, of the former of which the largest in the island
are to be found here ; whilst azaleas, rhododendrons,
camellias and similar shrubs thrive with astonishing vigour.

On a small islet opposite his house, called the " pico
furado," Snr. Antonio Borges had a number of artificial
caverns formed, the exploration of which is the delight of
little folk. Hard by are some extensive beds of the beautiful
white water lily (Nymphea alba), growing as rank as weeds.

Charmingly situated on a height, and approached by a
winding and stately avenue of cryptomerias, stands the
country residence of Snr. Joaquim A. Cabral, overlooking

156

the larger lake, and surrounded by tastefully laid out
grounds, abounding in romantic spots, from whicb. lovely
inland and coast views may be enjoyed, especially under the
willing guidance of the very hospitable proprietor and his
accomplished lady, should the visitor be fortunate enough
to find them at home.

A slight mount up the cliffs towards the north-west,
where a gap occurs, leads to the high table-land above, the
principal watershed district in the island, where herds of
fine-looking cattle, of English stock, are seen nibbling the
spare pasture, the tinkling of the bells fastened round their
necks echoing strangely in these localities.

In this island the cattle may at all times be approached
with perfect safety ; not so, however, in the neighbouring
Terceira, where it is absolutely dangerous to go near a herd
feeding on the little-frequented uplands there, without
considerable caution. The bulls of this semi-wild species
often have desperate battles during the breeding season,
when a whole herd will form a perfect ring round the
combatants until the fight is over. I am not aware of this
peculiarity being common to cattle generally, and it is
remarkable how great an instinct it appears to be with the
particular breed found in Terceira, for in none of the other
islands have they exhibited this propensity.

Mr. Darwin, in his " Descent of Man," mentions the fact
of bull-bisons in North America, on sudden danger arising,
driving the cows and calves into the middle of the herd
whilst they defend the outside, and that cows surround and
stare intently on a dying or dead companion.

The Spaniards appear to have introduced the Terceira
race from the banks of the Guadalquiver, and bull fights,
during their occupancy of the island, were frequent ; the
cruel pastime being kept up long after they were expelled.
Another introduction of the Spaniards into Terceira was
the savage Cuba-mastiff.

In 1843 there were barely any sheep remaining in that

157

island, owing" to the extraordinary number of these dogs
owned by people who, unable to properly feed them, sent
them abroad to forage for themselves. These animals as-
sembled together in packs at night, and destroyed entire
flocks of sheep.

The beautiful cabellinho fern [DiJcsonia culcita), sheltered
under patches of heather, abounds in these higher situations:
but the natives are doing their best to exterminate this
handsomest of their ferns, for the sake of the silky down
covering its fronds and roots, which they use for filling
mattresses.

The ride round the eastern edge of the crater, along a
rough bridle road, is one of the most charming in the island,
for, until reaching its highest summit, the Pico do Ledo, the
two lakes, several hundred feet below you on the one hand,
and the Atlantic on the other, are kept fully in sight. From
the Ladeira do Ledo, quite three parts of the island may be
seen, with the ocean on either side, this view being only
comparable to that from the top of the Pico do Togo, on the
opposite side, and is inexpressibly beautiful. Close by are
several very perfect craters, the hollows of which are oc-
cupied with small but romantic lakes, and, like the larger
ones below, teeming with gold and silver fish. Some of these
are the size of an ordinary mackerel. In winter these lakes
are the favourite resorts of wild fowl, where they can rest
undisturbed. The largest of these tarns is the Lagoa do
Carvao, which in winter time swells so as to join the Lagoa
Empadada, divided from it in drier weather by a narrow
ridge, and is well worth a visit. From one higher up the
plateau, the water supply of Ponta Delgada is obtained, its
immediate neighbourhood deriving the name of " Nove
Janellas," from an aqueduct with nine arches having been
constructed to convey the waters. The source, however,
is precarious, and sometimes deficient. A scheme is under
consideration for increasing the supply by conveying the
purer spring waters rising at a place called "Janellas do

158

Inferno," in the moimtains above Agna de Pan, and capable
of furnishing 2,100 cubic metres a day. Facilities for a rest
or pic-nic are afforded by a bnilding, roofed, but open on all
sides, about a quarter of a mile distant from the " Casa
Branca," covering two immense stone slabs forming a table
some eight to ten feet in length, by three to four feet in
breadth, resting on stone supports, round which are benches
also of rough stone. This structure is in close proximity to
the famous " Agua Nova " spring, reputed the purest in the
island, and during the hottest weather the spot is delight-
fully cool.

To the naturalist it may be interesting to know that
under stones or overturned masses of sphagnum moss in this
vicinity is to be found the rare little slug-like insect peculiar
to these islands, the Viquesnelia atlantica, fossil specimens of
which have been found in Eoumelia and the Pyrenees ; but
only in India has a similar living species been met with.

Two routes are available from the " Seven Cities " to the
north side of the island, but in either case it is absolutely
necessary that the start from the village should be made
not later than mid-day, as both present considerable
difficulties after dark. The one offering the greatest advan-
tages in every way is across the upland pastures, and skirt-
ing the aqueduct already mentioned. Should time permit, a
rest and ramble along the shores of a very pretty lake, not
far from the Casa das Aguas or Casa Branca (a white house
where the custodian of the aqueduct lives) and the stone
structure already mentioned, should not be neglected, as the
descent from this point to Mato do Maranhao is rough and
tedious in the highest degree ; masses of loose scoria and
ejected boulders strewing the ground in all directions.

Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, or flower,
Nor aught of vegetable power,
The weary eye may ken.

The second alternative route is infinitely more difficult
and less interesting, being nothing more than deeply encased

159

mountain gnlleys, the sides of which are so covered by over-
hanging vegetation as to completely shut out the sun's rays.
Down this steep incline the furious winter torrents have
carried great rocks, which render the passage in places all
but impracticable. Along such a way as this it was once
my fate to descend froni the Seven Cities with Mr. John
{Rob Roy) Macgregor and General W. F. N , both ex-
perienced travellers, but neither of whom had anywhere
encountered anything so execrable in the way of mountain
roads.

Starting on donkeys from the village at five in the
afternoon, dusk soon overtook us at the entrance to the gully,
and later a Cimmerian darkness prevented our seeing a
yard before us. There was no remedy but to allow our
brave little animals to follow their own sweet wills, and well
did they carry us, jumping in the dark from boulder to
boulder and getting over what seemed to be appalling ruts,
without once stumbling. The absolute reliance of the
donkey boys upon the sagacity of their animals was
amusingly illustrated on this occasion. One of the party
had for some time been engaged in an obstinate and hopeless
struggle with his steed, the animal persistently wishing to
take what looked like an impossible direction at a spot
where the road bifurcated ; the drivers, coming to the rescue,
increased the difficulty by confessing their ignorance of the
locality, but ruled that under the circumstances the donkey was
the better guide. With many misgivings we accordingly
" followed my leader " and were presently rewarded by
emerging near the village of St°. Antonio. The journey had
been a trying one, for only at two in the morning did we
reach our long wished-for bourn at Mato do Maranhao.
From this point, an extensive and charming view of the
valley of Capellas, with the villages of Rabo de Peixe, St.
Vicente, Fenaes, and Ribeira Grande, girt by an irregular
coast line, white with spray, can be enjoyed.

Capellas is famous for its tonic, salubrious air, and pretty

160

dark-eyed brunettes ; but it is only by employing a certain
amount of stratagem, that the last quality can be verified,
for these Azorean maidens are coy, and hide, on seeing a
stranger, as if he were a veritable Cossack. Nevertheless,
under proper auspices — say the wife of a local resident, or,
better still, the protecting segis of that autocrat, the village
padre — these damsels readily accept an invitation to a
"balho," and go through their native dances with con-
siderable spirit. These are mostly performed by from six to
a dozen couples joining in a circle, and slowly moving round,
each partner in opposite directions, and corkscrew fashion,
the ladies keeping their partners in view by maintaining a
backward movement, the gentlemen uttering in song the
usual soft platitudes, which, if overheard, are generally ex-
pressive of his agonising admiration of his partner's
coal-black eyes and merry lips; she, in response, sighing
that men were gay deceivers ever, all in very appropriate
and meaning attitudes, the voices being accompanied by the
viola or island guitar, or violin playing of some of the men.
The dance itself is graceless and monotonous, the interest
centering in the impromptu compliments paid, and the
replies given, or, as they term it, " cantar ao desafio," and to
judge from the time the dance is kept up, and the unflagging
spirit shown, they must consider themselves "Admirable
Crichtons " in the Terpsichorean art, or else fully realise the
idea that —

Panting damsels, dancing for their lives,
Are only maidens waltzing into wives.

Although much alike, there are many of these dances,
such as the pezinho das caldeiras, bailarola, sapateia, fring-
lindin, &c., which, like the famous Santa Lucia of Italy, are
the untiring and favourite accompaniments to some of the
melodies of these people.

The working classes of St. Michael have occasionally
furnished good voices for church singing, but, as a general
rule, both men and women have harsh, unmelodious voices.

161

which has earned for them, amongst the rest of the
Azoreans, the epithet of " o povo mais bruto das ilhas," the
roughest people of the islands ; but, in justice to them, this
remark applies more especially to their mode of speech,
which is harsh and inharmonious, and altogether unsuited
for singing, their songs being delivered in the loudest
possible key, and devoid of all sweetness as sung by them.

As national poetry is supposed, in a great measure, to
mirror many of the general characteristics of a people, I
select a few examples of the songs sung by these peasants
at their " balhos," the rough translations of which give but
a faint idea of the epigrammatic sarcasm occasionally
exhibited in the vernacular.

Snr. Theophilo Braga, the eminent writer, and a native
of St. Michael's, has done his countrymen good service by
laboriously compiling a collection embracing several hundred
island songs, but they are all much in the same strain as the
specimens given.

Quem me dera ser as contas

D'esse teu Undo collar,
Para dormir em teu seio
E nunca mais acordar.

Depois que os meus olhos virilm
A gra«;a que os teus tern,

Nunca mais foram senhores
De olhar para mais ninguem.

O sol nao nega seus raios
A quern d'elles necessita !

Porque me negas, ingrata,
Os raios de tua vista ?

Ate onde as nuvens girSm
Vao meus suspires parar ;

E tu tao perto de mim,
Sem me ouvires suspirar.

Os vossos olhos, menina,
Sao pharoes de mar e guerra,

Quando vao para o mar largo
DeitSm faiscas em terra.

Nao ha setta mais aguda,
Nem penas tab penetrantes,

Como sao as saudades
Entre dois finos amantes.

[Translation.]
Oh ! were I the beads

On thy necklace strimg o'er,
I'd sleep on your breast

And awake nevermore.

Since mine eyes have beheld
The great beauty of thine,

They've never since gazed
On a face so divine.

The rays of the sun

To all men are free.
Then why, cruel girl.

Don't you smile upon me.

The clouds float afar
And my sighs fill the air,

And you, altho' near,
Neither heed me nor care.

Thine eyes, sweet maid,
Are like two beacons bright

That flash o'er the sea,
And the landscapes they light.

No dart so keen,

And no pain so acute,
As the torture of lovers

Who long to salute.

162

There is mucli more melody in tlie " modinhas," or
ballads of tlie islanders, than in the songs accompanying
the popular dances ; indeed, some of the airs are exceedingly
pretty, but are now unfortunately seldom, if ever, heard,
and as I foresee a time when these charming lays will be
altogether lost, I have appended a * selection at the end of
this little work of a few of the prettiest of them.

Capellas is a favourite summer resort of the Azorean
gentry, where they have many pretty villa residences and
gardens. One of these, belonging to Snr. Jose Maria
da Camara, is interesting for the numerous and beautiful
varieties of camellias cultivated, presenting an exquisite
sight when the trees are full of bloom. There is a small
bay here, land-locked on three sides, completely sheltered
by the high cliffs from the prevalent south-easterly gales.
It was here that vessels and the Lisbon mail steamers took
refuge, and received their cargoes, before the breakwater
afforded protection. The great headland, known as the
Morro das Capellas, presents many beautiful coast views from
its heights ; but its chief characteristics can only properly
be seen from the sea, as on that side the base of the tufa
cliffs have, in places, been worked by the continued action
of the waves into perfect arches and deep recesses, into
which the sea when rough dashes with great violence.

Higher up in the face of the cliffs are immense rents
and clefts, in the topmost crevices of which large numbers
of rock pigeons resort and afford excellent shooting.
Their destruction is usually accomplished from boats procured
at the little neighbouring fishing port, the grand scenery
around adding enjoyment to the sport. There is no doubt
that the name Capellas was derived from the quaint archi-
tectural appearance of the gothic-like arches, suggesting to
the minds of the early inhabitants the entrances into
chapels.

On the eastern margin of the " Morro " is a deep
circular hollow — a wild forbidding spot, called by the

163

people " a cova do morro," slint in on all sides by the land,
but to wbicli the sea has access by a subterranean passage.
They tell a tender tale of how a poor girl —

Whose bloom was like the springing flower
That sips the silver dew,
The rose was budded in her cheek,
Just opening to the view —

disappeared at this place, where she was in the habit of
coming every morning to bathe.

Hard by are the ruins of some buildings, which, in
less watchful times, are said to have harboured smugglers
and their contraband goods.

To the left of these ruined buildings, and at the base of
the cliff, approached only by means of a boat, is the entrance
to a vast cavern, of great length and height (the extent of
which is but dimly discernible, owing to the faint rays of
light which penetrate the narrow orifice), apparently tra-
versing the entire morro from north to south.

During the months of June and July, it is an extra-
ordinary sight to see large numbers of the huge cagarra
(Pnffinus major, of Faber, and P. cmereus, of Ch. Bonap.),
sitting on their nests of two eggs, without a sound or
motion as you approach, but fierce in the extreme, and even
dangerous, if molested. The discordant note of this bird
may be often heard overhead, in the dead of night, when
they generally go abroad.

From Capellas, two capiial roads lead, one across the
island (at this part only nine miles broad) to Ponta Delgada;
the other, past the villages of Nossa Senhora da Luz,
Calheitas, and Rabo de Peixe, to the pretentious town of
Ribeira Grande, so named from the stream on which it is
built. This town is the second place of importance in the
island, its population including Ribeirinha and Ribeira
Secca, numbering some 11,800 souls. The people are of a
different type and character to the other islanders, and
share with the people of Arrifes the unenviable reputation

M 2

164

of being disorderly and turbulent; conflicts with the military
not infrequently occur over hotly-contested elections, on
which occasions the use of the knife is not altogether
unknown.

The ride past these places is varied by numerous bays
and creeks indenting the broken and rugged coast ; here,
the sweet monotone of the gentle surf in some sheltered
sandy cove — there the angry boom of the waves breaking
over a rocky promontory — relieves the irksomeness of travel.
The changes too, when the road turns inland, are equally
enjoyable, for scoriaceous tracts alternate with patches of
orange groves, and waving fields of wheat, maize, or tobacco,
hedged, where the ground is highest, by the handsome
Arundo donax reed, bending its plumed head to the slightest
breeze ; or by the elegant broom millet {Sorghum dhurra),
from the beautiful panicles of which excellent brooms and
brushes are made.

Tobacco grows here in surprising lankness. In 1864 a
law was enacted, extinguishing the tobacco monopoly, and
permitting its manufacture in the A9ores and Madeira,
where the receipts from the monopoly amounted to £15,500
per annum. In order to make up this amount, a direct tax
of 200 reis per kilo on imported or locally manufactured
tobacco was imposed. The result of this salutary measure
was soon apparent, for so profitable did farmers find the
cultivation of the plant, that its production in the district
of Ponta Delgada alone rose from 5,110 kilos in 1865 to
close upon 200,000 kilos at the present time. In 1885, this
tax was reduced to 160 reis per kilo on all tobacco manu-
factured for consumption, the grower being also given
the privilege of exporting his produce to Portugal. Un-
fortunately the plant impoverishes the soil to a great
extent, and the difficulty and expense of obtaining
artificial manures prevents its cultivation for any lengthened
period.

There are no less than four tobacco factories in the

165

island, and the profits of this industry would be much
greater if the proprietors of these (where all kinds of fancy
tobacco and inferior cigars are made) had not, unfortu-
nately, combined to pay the grower a fixed and uniform
price for his produce, generally 6 tostoons per kilo for the
coarse and a dollar for the fine leaf, of which, however, only
a small proportion is obtained, and as the Government
senselessly prohibits the export, unless the same duties are
paid as on foreign tobacco, the Azorean grower has no
alternative but to accept these terms, as the material loss in
weight, which is soon apparent when it reaches the drier
climate of Lisbon, places it at once at a disadvantage with
tobacco imported there from other countries possessing less
moisture.

The tobacco plant has been long acclimatized in these
islands, for in a short description of Fayal, written in 1589
by Edward Wright, he mentions that it was then commonly
found growing in every garden, " wherewith their women
dye their faces reddish, to make them seem fresh and
young " ; this latter application of the leaf appears, however,
in these days to be entirely discontinued. The loss sustained
by the cultivation of tobacco can be recouped to the soil by
alternating its growth with that of plants possessing fertili-
sing properties. The cultivation of tea is found, to exhaust
the fertility of the soil, and the sau plant has been recom-
mended as a remedy to Indian tea planters. Johnston, in
his " Chemistry of Common Life," very truly says that " it
is one of the triumphs of the chemistry of the present cen-
tury that it has ascertained by what new management the
ancient fertility of the land may be restored, and thus how
new fortunes may be extracted from the same old soil."
Tobacco growers in these islands are perfectly well aware of
the fertilising properties of the "lupin," but even this sur-
prising land " regenerator," like the too-willing horse, may
fail them if persistently sown in the same soil, and an oc-
casional interchange with the sau would probably prevent

160

tlioir liiiviiig to Itiiiieiit over the loss of a profitable
industry.

Through the praiseworthy efforts of my friend, Snr. Gm.
Read Cabral, considerable attention has of recent years been
devoted in this and some of the other islands to the culti-
vation of the Phormium tmiax, or New Zealand flax, the fibre
of which, when properly treated, can be worked up into the
finest textile fabrics. Snr. Read Cabral's chief aim, how-
ever, is to produce paper pulp from the plant, and as nothing
can be done in Portugal without protection, he obtained a
patent from the Government which virtually concedes him
the monopoly of this manufacture in the islands and Portu-
gal for a term of 15 years. As it is alike profitable to
manufacturer and grower, the plant thriving on any soil,
however poor, its culture is likely in time to attain import-
ant proportions ; if so, the credit of introducing this new
industry is entirely due to the persistent endeavours and
example of Snr. Read Cabral.

How this plant became common in all the islands is
unknown ; the oldest inhabitants remember it from child-
hood, and no one can throw any light as to how it first
became introduced.

There are several Australian trecis, such as the eucalyptui^,
acacia, melanoxylon and jrlftosporum, all of comparatively
recent introduction, to be found in these islands, but botan-
ists tell us that out of a total of 478 flowering plants in this
archipelago, 400 are identical with European sj^ecies. More
than half of the European genera occurring in Australia are
to be found also in these islands, no visible means, other than
aerial transport of the seed across the vast expanse of ocean,
being apparent to account for their introduction into these
isolated isles ages ago. It is an interesting fact in connec-
tion with the recent cultivation of the Australian eucalyptus,
all over temperate Europe, that its fruit was found by Dr.
Ettinghausen in the Eocene beds of Sheppey.

The church of Nossa Senhora da Estrclla, commenced as

1G7

far back as 1517, is a conspicuous edifice and passed througli
many vicissitudes when earthquakes were rife, havin^^ been
more than once almost totally destroyed. The interior is
spacious and imposinj>-, and under the chief altar once
reposed the remains of its old vicar, the erudite Father
Fructuoso, who was born in S. Miguel in 1522, and died in
1591, after having been for forty years vicar of Ribeira
Grande. His ashes were, some years ago, removed to the
adjoining churchyard, where a handsome monument was
by public subscription erected to his much venerated
memory.

A far more lasting testimony to the worth of this old
graduate of Salamanca, however, remains in his invaluable
and voluminous MS. writings, of which four copies
exist.

In these, are to be found a complete history of the gene-
alogy of the families who came over from Portugal to people
these islands, and of the chief occurrences which had taken
place during his long residence here. His narratives,
written in simple and ungarnished style, bear the impress
of truth, and it is from them that the only reliable early
history of these islands can be gathered. In addition to
the tardy monument erected to the fame of unquestionably
the greatest of their citizens, the Michaelenses should add
the still more honourable one of printing his works.

The haughty ediles of E-ibeira Grande have installed
themselves in an imposing Casa da Camara, the ground
floor of which, with low iron-grated windows facing the
street, is used as a prison, a system formerly much in vogue
in Portugal and which travellers even now may see at Cintra
and other places.

Here the confined cut-throats, thieves and other
desperadoes, can hold comfortable and unchecked converse
with their friends, and perhaps mature plans for future
misdeeds. I believe that motives of economy first prompted
the authorities to introduce these open grates, which

168

enabled them to cast the burden of maintaining the
prisoners apon the latter's relatives and friends, and upon
the compassionate passer-by. It is a wonder, and speaks
volumes for this order-loving people, that under such a
system crime should not be more frequent than it is, for
under the humanitarian government of Portugal the worst
penalty criminals of the deepest dye can expect to pay is
transportation for life to Angola or some other West
African "Cave of Adullam," where, after a year or two of idle
and easy confinement, they are set at liberty with little or
no surveillance, and attached as servants, or, if of the better
class, as travellers and assistants to the traders, whose
places they eventually occupy. Nearly the whole of the
Portuguese colonial trade in Africa is in the hands of these
men. The " degradados," as they are called for life, may
not return to Portugal even on ticket-of -leave, but those who
go for shorter periods come back completely purged of the
stigma which attached to their deeds, and, if well-to-do,
take their place as respectable members of society. I have
often been told by African traders that they live in perfect
harmony and confidence with these liberated convicts, of
whose conduct they have seldom to complain. This goes
far to prove that crime in Portugal is perhaps not so much
the result of innate and confirmed rascality as the con-
sequence of impulse ; still it is melancholy to think that
such are the men who by force of circumstances are the
pioneers of Portuguese trade in West and East Africa, for
they are sent by their employers far and wide into the
interior to exchange goods for native produce. That they
seldom lose their lives on these distant and sometimes
dangerous expeditions, is a probable indication of their good
conduct.

In 1867, as we have seen, the death penalty was abolished
in Portugal, and penal servitude for life, or *' degrado
perpetuo," substituted in its stead.

The law punishes certain crimes with excessive severity,

160

but the juries invariably tend to leniency, and acquit 35 per
cent, of the cases brought before them for trial. Out of a
total of 9,267 crimes recorded in the criminal statistics of
Portugal for the past year, 15 are included under the head
of " want of respect for religion," including blasphemy.
There were 24 trials, in all, of this class, resulting in 12
convictions, the offenders being in all cases subjected to
light punishments.

The following extract from a recent Lisbon paper will give
a fair idea of the disproportionate sentences to the crimes
committed : —

" The prisoners mentioned below will shortly be sent to
penal servitude ; Angelica Marques, maidservant, banished
for 3 years, for the crime of theft ; Domingos Ferreira, man-
servant, banished for 15 years for the crime of theft ;
Francisco Braz, farmer, perpetual banishment for the crime
of rape ; Jose Manais, shoemaker, perpetual banishment for
the crime of homicide ; Jose Trusa, manservant, perpetual
banishment for robbery ; Maria Dias, banished for 10 years
for homicide ; Polycarpo Oliveira, miller, 4 years banish-
ment for wounding ; Joao Noivo, labourer, perpetual
banishment for the crime of homicide ; Antonio Fernandez,
labourer, 5 years banishment for theft ; Antonio Felicio,
labourer, 8 years banishment for theft."

Thirty years ago, prisoners were frequently seen with
ankle-chains on, sweeping the streets of Ponta Delgada ;
only the best behaved being allowed this jDrivilege.

Passing through Ribeira Grande, as often happens in
almost all these islands, one is strongly reminded of some
Mauresque town, so eastern do the houses look, with their
high-grated verandahs completely veiling the windows and
impenetrable to the eye, but from behind which the fair
occupant may be observed —

Peeping cautiously through,
Lest the neighbours should say
That she looked at the men.

170

These hideous " jalousie " blinds are said to have been
originally instituted by the Moors, with the double object
of shutting out the rays of the sun, as well as protecting
the fair inmates — probably, like others of their sex, much
addicted to the too serious study of street scenery — from the
impious gaze of would-be conquistadores. But their adoption
ruined the appearance of the dwellings and shut out all air ;
they had also a still more mischievous effect in inspiring the
female population with a timidity and absurd fear of being-
seen, which condemned them to an altogether useless and
unnatural life.

Perhaps the island cynic may, in a measure, be responsible
for this feminine seclusion, when he penned the following
warning to husbands : —

Tend.es a dama bonita,
Nao a ponhaes a janella ;
Passam uns, e passam outros,
Todos dizem : — quern m'a dera I

which may be thus construed —

Who owns a fine wife
Should in window not place her,
Else passers by, seeing,
"Will long to embrace her.

These windows were also apparently used as substitutes
for panes of glass ; force of habit retaining tJieir use in
country villages to the present day.

Capt. Cook, who visited Fayal, and remained there six
days, in July, 1775, to ''find the rate of the watch, the better
to enable us to fix with some degree of certainty the
longitude of these islands," gives a short description of
Horta, in the account of his second voyage, and incidentally
remarks that ''there is not a glass window in the place,
except what are in the churches and in a country house
which lately belonged to the English consul, all the others
being latticed, which to an Englishman makes them look
like prisons."

171

This exclusiveness appears to have been carried to an
extreme by the earlier inhabitants of the island, for in such
villages as Ginetes and Candelaria the older cottages may
be seen, without even a door or v^dndov^, opening out into
the street, in the apartment facing which is located the
kitchen and baking oven. At Arrifes, Bretanha, Ginetes
and Feteiras, many of the cottages have their entrance at
the back, or side yard, a small window only facing the
street. In this yard lives the pig (who generally pays the
rent), and whatever poultry the cottager possesses, making
the access to the dwelling disagreeable, and the surroundings
unhealthy. Hence, the chief diseases in these villages
consist of gastric and typhoid fevers and small-pox.

In the Matriz Church of this town is a curious collection
of small figures illustrative of various Scripture passages, the
chief merit of which consists in their being the untaught
handiwork of one of the nuns who resided here. It is un-
certain what the plastic materials used consisted of, as this
she kept a profound secret, but the inception and manner of
depicting the chief events narrated in the Old and New
Testaments are creditable, considering that the artist had
nothing but her own instinct to guide lier.

Ribeira Grande was always the centre of manufacturers
in the island, and even now it is here that all the small iron
agricultural implements are made. The stream flowing
through the town also gives employment to many anti-
quated, but effective, corn mills, and a few looms for the
coarser kinds of Jinen cloths worn by the peasantry are still
kept at work.

The land around Ribeira Grande is very fertile, and this
is the richest cereal-growing district in the island, which
probably accounts for the extensive demesnes with their
monasteries and convents formerly existing here, and then
inhabited by numerous fat, lazy and unprofitable drones — but
now, in their decay and emptiness, looking like " whited
sepulchres." A very fair inland road leads to the pic-

172

turesquely situate hamlet of Caldeiras, about three miles
distant from E-ibeira Grande, and built on heights about six
or seven hundred feet above sea level — famous for its group
of thermal springs, the second of importance in the island.
A score or so of stone-built cottages (entirely deserted in
the winter time), half hidden behind huge hydrangeas and
arborescent fuchsias {Gracilis) , dot the surrounding hillocks,
and, although suggestive of damp and rheumatism they are
much resorted to by health seekers in the summer months,
vrho come to enjoy the baths and the pure restorative
mountain air for which this place has always been celebrated.
Those able to climb and stand moderate fatigue will find
some charming excursions about the neighbourhood ; but on
any lengthy trip it is well to start in ample time to return
by daylight, as, in this broken and rugged country, night
travelling is all but impossible.

The Ribeira Grande stream flows through a deep rocky
gorge in the mountains, forming two beautiful cascades close
to Caldeiras, known as the Salto do Cabrito, and the Salto
de Luiz d'Aguiar ; the scenery hereabouts more than repaying
the fatigue of descending into these steep fern-clothed glens.
The walk to the dripping well of " Lagrimas," and, further
still, to the foot of the Pico do Fogo mountains, reveals some
of the grandest views in the island. At this latter place there
is a cold spring of acidulated water rich in carbonic gas and
containing carbonate and silicate of soda, carbonate of lime
and magnesia, and oxyde of iron : its general characteristics
are those of seltzer water, and it is no doubt of great
medicinal value and very pleasant to drink.

Higher up the mountain, you reach the lip of the crater
containing the beautiful lake known as " Lagoa do Fogo."
This vast crater, already referred to, was the result of the
eruption of the 25th June, 1563. The highest points around
stand some 3,000 feet, or more, above sea level, and present a
witching expanse of scenery as far as theeyecan range, to those
fortunate enough to have a cloudless day in which to enjoy it.

173

The shores of the lake itself are well worth exploring.
It is here, and especially on the south-west side, that the
beautiful cabellinho fern attains giant proportions, and
immense beds of the remarkable moss [Sphagnum cymhifoUum),
holding water like a sponge, are found.

In this perfect solitude, the sea-gulls and other water-
fowl build their nests undisturbed. On the south-east side
of the lake the overhanging lava cliffs are magnificent,
viewed from a boat below.

About a mile and a quarter to the east of Caldeiras, and
on the rising banks of a mountain torrent, are to be found
two springs of very strong iron water, welling up in con-
siderable volume, and too hot to allow of the hand being
dipped into them. The place is known as " o banho do
Cabreiro/' from a goat-herd having built himself a rude
bath here which he used for chronic rheumatism, and the
natives say he derived great benefit from the use of these
waters.

Another very charming walk across country leads to the
little village of Gramas de Cima, near which the Count da
Silva, has a wood entirely of eucalyptus trees ; by its side
flows a brook, on the left margin of which, after crossing
the stepping stones, another very curious spring of acidulated
water — of less value, however, than that on the mountain side
— rises in a sandy bed ; it is very cold and free from gas, but
pleasant to the taste.

Not far from Gramas is a noble forest property known as
Lameiro, belonging to Snr. Jose Jacomo Correa, where you
can ramble for hours through beautiful pine and eucalyptus
woods, or drive along an avenue unequalled in the island
for breadth and growth.

In another private property in this direction, is the
" Ladeira da Velha " spring, rising out of the fissures of a
large rock ; it has a temperature of about 30 degrees Fah.,
and is rich in free carbonic acid gas ; this makes it a
delightful water to bathe in.

174

M. Fouque obtained the following results from analysis :

Chloride of sodium . . . . . . .120

Chlorohydric acid . . . . . . .002

Sulphuric acid . . . . . . traces

Silica . . . . . . . . . . .021

0.143

From the Pico das Freiras a very fine view of the town of
Kibeira Grande may be had, as well as of the adjacent coast.

One of the most remarkable and enjoyable trips in this
neighbourhood is to the Caldeira Yelha, occupying about an
hour and a half on donkey back. The road gradually ascends
and crosses the Ribeira Grande stream several times,
narrowing in places and winding through characteristic
Azorean scenery, until it terminates in a ciil de sac, at the
very end of which, and at the immediate foot of a mountain
spur, lies the Great Geyser, the second largest in the island,
surrounded by a low circular stone parapet, containing a
large volume of smoking acid water, which perpetually
heaves and boils violently. The French savant, M. F.
Fouque, who visited the Acores at the special request of the
Portuguese Government in 1872, for the purpose of analysing
and reporting on the various mineral springs existing there,
found the temperature of the water of the Caldeira Velha to
be 97 degrees Fah., and an analysis gave the following
results : —

.155

Sulphate of peroxide

• • •

of iron

.610

Silica

• • •

.350

Sulphuric acid

• • •

.680

Chlorohydric acid

> • • 1

.010

Sulphydric acid . .

• • •

.003

1-808

A litre of evaporated water left a residue weighing 1*115

gramme.

175

M. Fouque draws attention to the large proportion of
free sulphuric acid (environ 5 decigrammes d'acide sulfurique
libre par litre) and sulphate of iron which this well contains.
Although there is a total absence of bathing accommodation,
believers in the efficacy of this spring have been known to
come from considerable distances, and by constructing rude
huts, or cafuas, with boughs of brushwood, to use its waters
with beneficial results in cases where the other mineral
baths in the island had failed to relieve.

At first sight, the temperature of this water would be
thought much higher than it really is, the perpetual rush
of escaping gases agitating and working it up to the
violently ebullient condition it presents. The natives cook
their milho cobs and horse beans in the Caldeira, but its heat
is scarcely sufficient to thoroughly boil harder vegetables,
such as potatoes, yams, &c.

In the middle of the sixteenth century an alum factory
appears to have been established here, but was soon
abandoned, in consequence of its collection proving unre-
munerative. The article may still be found encrusted within
the interstices and broken ground surrounding the geyser ;
here, also, are to be seen several mud-holes and lesser
springs — all hissing and evolving hot gasses.

A few hundred yards on the way to this remarkable spot
is the entrance to a very extensive tea plantation belonging
to Snr. Jose do Canto, which is also well worth visiting.
The shrubs are planted on a sheltered slope with a northern
aspect, and grow to perfection. Tea is systematically made,
and the quality is very good.

In 1885 there were upwards of 27,000 plants in this
garden, flushing leaves five or six times a year. A plant four
to five years old produces at each stripping 1 lb. of green
leaves ; and each 3 to 4 lbs. of leaves 1 lb. of manipu-
lated tea. When we consider that the import duty on tea
in Portugal is 3s. 6|d. per kilogramme, it is surprising
that with such advantages of climate and soil, tea gardens

176

should not profitably replace the now exhausted orange
groves.

The pine woods around Caldeiras are very enjoyable, and
immense masses of dark blue Hydrangea hortensis, hedging
the paths in all directions, which are also rendered beautiful
in the autumn by long lines and clumps of the belladonna
lily, to be found here in incredible quantity.

The bathing establishment of Caldeiras is ancient and
primitive in the extreme, having been built in 1811,
and recently repaired by the Camara of Ribeira Grande.
The baths are deep stone troughs, dark looking and hardly
tempting to the over fastidious ; but, properly cleansed,
are very enjoyable. The waters, which lack some of the
many virtues ascribed to the Furnas springs, owing to their
volume being increased by mixture with ordinary water,
are drawn off from a large reservoir protected by a
solid stone, completely enclosing the solfataras in which
they rise. Into this receptacle flows a constant stream
of cold spring water, which soon attains a heat of
95 degrees Fah. and becomes impregnated to a marked
degree with the mineral and gaseous properties of the wells.
There is no doubt that the fact of these repositories being
uncovered, and the adjunct of ordinary water, detract
from the value and efficacy of the baths ; still they are
not only very pleasant, but of undoubted benefit in rheuma-
tism and other kindred disorders.

Should these tanks not be frequently replenished, a
glairy, viscous substance (known as baregine) soon forms
and floats on the surface. A few yards to the east of
the larger reservoir is a smaller one, encircling some boiling
and hissing springs of iron water. A subterranean leakage,
however, appears to have been formed recently, and prevents
its holding any body of water, the volume of the iron source
itself being greatly attenuated.

A few yards to the west of these springs occurs another,
rising in a deep depression alongside the road ; the water is

177

very hot, and being stronger in mineral properties tlian the
others, is frequently conveyed in pitchers to the different
dwellings, for use in sitz baths.

At the latter end of the sixteenth century, quite a large
alum factory existed at Caldeiras, and a smaller one at the
Furnas.

Dr. Gaspar Gon9alves, in 1553, noticing the presence of
alum in large quantities around these solfataras, succeeded
in extracting some three or four cwt., which he took to
Lisbon. The queen, Catherine of Austria, became greatly
interested in the new industry, and sent to Carthagena for
experts to set up and conduct the necessary lixiviating works
in the island. In 1564, some seventy people were already
engaged at Caldeiras in the reduction works, and during the
year some 438 cwts. of alum were manufactured. The
industry seems to have flourished until 1590, when it com-
pletely died away ; up to that time no less than 526 tons of
good alum were exported to Lisbon.

The works at the Furnas, which were overwhelmed by
the eruption of 1630, appear to have been of a purely
tentative kind, for I can only trace some 690 cwt. of alum as
having been manufactured, although the aluminous earth
would seem to exist there in much larger quantities than at
the Caldeiras. Here is a manufacture which, if properly
and economically carried on, might be made highly remu-
nerative, the cheapness of labour and abundance of water
in the localities where the alum deposits occur offering
special inducements for its development.

Chapter XI.

The Coast — Ladeira da Velha — Historical Sketch — Dona Maria axd Dom
Miguel — English Volunteers — Sir Charles Napier — Admiral Sir George
Rose Sartorius — Proclamations of Dom Pedro — The Duke of Wellington

AND Dom Miguel.

The loud war-trumpet woke the morn,
The quivering drum, the pealing horn ;
From rank to rank the cry is borne,
" Arouse to death or victory ! "

Hogg.

Leaving Caldeiras and its pleasant associations at daybreak,
and following the coast road past Ribeirinlia, we soon reach,
a place called Ladeira da Velha, where the road becomes
exceedingly steep, dipping at an angle of 50° into what but
a few years back was a deep ravine. This pass, and the
neighbouring heights are celebrated in the annals of
liberalism as the scene of as gallant a fight as ever took
place for freedom. It seems, indeed, difficult to realise that
these waving fields of corn to the right and left, and the
wooded hills above them, should have once been soaked in
human gore, and resounded with the fierce yells of war.
We will presently' revisit the spot, and describe what then
took place.

The next village on our way is Porto Formoso — and,
beyond, Maya — where a pretty waterfall, if the season be
not too dry, can be seen in the grounds of Dona Hermelinda
da Camara. From this point, the journey should be con-
tinued to Fanaes d'Ajuda, prudent travellers emptying their
provaunt baskets here ; after which, having sallied out in
quest of a guide, we proceed a short way down the coast to
inspect some singular basaltic reefs of columnar formation,

179

which may jnstly be compared to those of Staff a. The
locality is wild, and very interesting are these weather-
battered prominences — •

Their bleak and visionary sides

Containing the history of many a winter storm.

A little distance from the shore, and in deep water,
stands a mass of basalt, in the form of a magnificent arch,
through which the sea, in rough weather, dashes with furious
violence ; indeed, during all seasons of the year, the deep
ululation of the waters characterises this spot. The lava
rocks in this part of the island are highly crystalline.

To properly enjoy this beautiful coast scenery, beds for
the night should be secured at the convent close by, once
belonging to the Seraphic order of nuns, and built in 1681.
This would allow of a boating excursion round these bold
headlands, and of some good pigeon shooting.

A mile or two beyond, are the two villages of Achadinha
and Achada, not far from which is a basaltic promontory
called Pesqueiro da Achadinha, where the small liberating
band, numbering 1,500 men, headed by Count Yilla Flor
(afterwards Duke of Terceira), landed on the 1st August,
1831. As a brief account of the struggle which ensued,
and the circumstances which led up to it, may not be
altogether uninteresting, I will here record what can be
gathered on the subject from the most trustworthy sources.

When Junot, in November, 1807, was rapidly marching
on Lisbon — in consequence of John the Sixth's refusal to
ratify the decree of Berlin, by which the ports of the Penin-
sula were closed against England — the king, with the whole
court and a large following, fled on the 29th November to
the colony of Brazil, which he raised to a constitutional
kingdom in 1818, leaving Portugal in the meantime to the
government of a regency. Disgusted, however, with the
court intrigues, and the unruly character of his new subjects,
who had forced from him the constitution, King John
determined to return to Portugal, and left for Lisbon in

N 2

180

July, 1821, leaving the new-born kingdom under the vice-
royalty of his eldest son, the Prince Dom Pedro.

Envious of the distinction which had been conferred
upon their South American settlement, the Lisbon court
now influenced Dom Joao to withdraw the constitution he
had granted them, and to reduce the government and country
to a colony; but, once having tasted the sweets of self-
government, the people replied to this ill-advised measure by
immediately declaring their independence of the mother
country, and proclaimed Dom Pedro their constitutional
emperor in 1825. Besides Dom Pedro, King John had a
second son, Dom Miguel — the favourite of his mother Dona
Carlotta Joaquina, daughter of Charles TV. of Spain, a most
bigoted woman, ruled completely by the priesthood, whose
sole aim was the advancement of her cherished son Miguel
to the throne ; to accomplish which, the most unscrupulous
means were resorted to.

The court now became divided into two camps — the
liberals, who rallied round the king, clamouring for a con-
stitution, and the absolutists, headed by Queen Carlotta
and her son and the Marquis de Chaves. The assassination
of the Marquis of Louie, a staunch adherent and friend of
the king, on the 29th February, 1824, and the discovery of
a conspiracy to seize upon the person of the king himself,
with a view to forcing him to abdicate the throne, drove
Dom Joao on board the British man-of-war " Windsor
Castle." Dom Miguel having been ordered by the king to
join him on board the "Windsor Castle," was there severely
reprimanded for his part in the conspiracy, and, having been
transferred to the frigate " Perola," was banished the king-
dom, many of his followers being also dispersed.

Portugal now enjoyed a short period of repose, but the
death of Dom Joao in March, 1826, once more became the
signal for fresh disturbances.

By his will, the crown of Portugal devolved upon his
eldest son, Dom Pedro d'Alcantara, the Emperor of Brazil,

181

who was at once proclaimed King of Portugal, but shortly
afterwards abdicated his questionable rights in favour of
his eldest daughter, the youthful princess, Dona Maria da
Gloria, then only 8 years of age, under the regency of her
aunt, the Infanta Isabel Maria. He also granted to Por-
tugal, shortly before his death, the famous Carta da Con-
stituigao, or charter of constitution, which guaranteed legal
equality, abolished the odious class distinctions, and conceded
to the people suffrage rights, establishing the representative
chambers, and many other privileges. Instigated by the old
queen, the government of the regent now openly became
absolutist, and sought to suppress, by every means in their
power, the growing tendencies of constitutionalism. En-
counters were frequent between the queen's troops and
bands of liberals under the leaders, Saldanha and Yilla Plor.
■ The queen-mother, having unfortunately successfully
intrigued with the Emperor Dom Pedro for the return of
her favourite son to Portugal, and his bethrothal to his niece.
Dona Maria, Dom Miguel landed in Lisbon on the 22nd of
February, 1828, after encountering at the mouth of the
Tagus one of the most frightful tempests on record, which
seemed to presage his own stormy administration.

Dom Miguel at once took the oath of allegiance, and
assumed the reins of government as regent, swearing to
defend and uphold the charter of the constitution. Twenty-
one days afterwards this charter was abolished, and Dom
Miguel had proclaimed himseK king ! The fierce struggle
and fratricidal war of succession now broke out, which did
not cease until July, 1833, when first the Duke of Terceira
and subsequently Dom Pedro triumphantly entered Lisbon
at the head of the liberating army. Some of the most bril-
liant acts of this lamentable war took place in the Azores,
which at the time, though ripe for revolution, were yet, by
reason of the strong Miguelite garrisons which held them,
kept from openly pronouncing for the liberal cause.

Terceira had, during all these events, been in reality

182

more " Miguelista " than " Constitutional " ; but on the 21st
August, 1826, the various municipalities of the island, owing
chiefly to the earnest endeavours of Lord Stuart de Rothesay,
who had been commissioned by Dom Pedro (who afterwards
created him Marquis of Angra) to be the bearer of it to
Portugal and the islands, gave a sullen adhesion to the con-
stitutional charter, and to this date may be traced the dawn
of liberalism in this "muito nobre e sempre leal cidade
d'Angra." This submission of the Miguelistas was of short
duration, for they once more occupied the public offices,
and assayed to re-establish their master's rule. A revolt,
however, initiated by some of the leading liberal citizens,
and supported by the 5th battalion of Ca9adores, under their
commandant Quintino Dias, broke out at Terceira on the
22nd June, 1828, when the power of Miguel in the island
was for ever overthrown, fortunately with little bloodshed.
The malcontents, however, taking refuge in the more central
and almost inaccessible parts of the island, and staunchly
aided by the priesthood, were soon able to take the field,
though with an undisciplined and badly-armed force,
variously estimated at from 4,000 to 5,000 men, under the
command of Captain Joao Moniz de Sa, a steadfast supporter
of the " inauf eriveis direitos " of Dom Miguel I.- They were
strongly posted on well-chosen and hilly ground in the
neighbourhood of Pico do Selleiro, where, on the 4th October
of the same year, they were attacked and completely routed
by that dashing cavalry officer. Colonel Jose Antonio da
Silva Torres, afterwards created Barao do Pico Selleiro, for
his splendid defence of the Serra Convent at Oporto. By
this victory, Terceira henceforth became the focus and
rallying point of constitutionalism ; so enthusiastic became
the inhabitants for the cause they had espoused, that
they declared the very sun became "liberal," and shed in his
rays the colours their party sported.

On the 22nd June, 1829, Count Yilla Flor, who had been
driven from Portugal and ta,ken refuge in Terceira, was

183

appointed, by Doui Pedro, Captain-General of the A9ores,
with instructions to regain the islands to the cause of Dona
Maria. The Count now vowed that he would not again shave
until he had freed Portugal from the tyrannical rule of Dom
Miguel, and at once issued the following proclamation : —

Azoreans ! The time has arrived for you to shake off the
shameful and heavy yoke which has oppressed you so long. Your
brothers, the brave Portuguese, who, after the most terrible
catastrophes, and at the cost of every kind of risk and suffering, had
the constancy never to despair of the salvation of the country, and
knew how to maintain themselves firm and invincible in the island of
Terceira, now come to break the irons with which an impious faction
has bound your arms. Azoreans ! We have not come to make war upon
you ; we know perfectly well that if violence can stifle the manifes-
tation of your honour and loyalty, these sentiments yet exist in your
hearts as pure as those that should ever animate Portuguese breasts.

The Regency, in the name of our gracious queen, Dona Maria II.,
sends us to free you from your oppressors, to plant among you the
regimen of law, to unite you round a beneficent sceptre under the
shade of which we enjoy all the benefits of a just and well-regulated
liberty, and finally to vindicate the Portuguese nation from the eternal
opprobrium with which all civilized countries would regard her, Avere
she to remain any longer subject to the brutal tyranny which degrades
her in the eyes of the entire world.

The sad experience of three years of tyranny and oppression have
dissipated all those illusions which the perfidious authors of usurpa-
tion had succeeded in spreading. All now know that hyprocrisy
clothed herself wdth the mantle of religion only to fill the dungeons
with unhappy wretches, to people with victims the pestiferous deserts
of Africa, and to shed on the scaffolds the generous blood of those
who refused to violate their oaths. Perjury was discovered in virtue,
fidelity was called treason, and thus were confounded all ideas of
justice and injustice.

All the nations of Europe became horrified at sight of such crimes,
and the indignant governments have ever refused to recognise the
usurper of the Portuguese crown. Europe expects that the Portu-
guese will at length awake from the lethargy in which they have lain,

184

and, sj^ontaneously acclaiming the legitimate queen, will once more
occupy that place amongst nations which always belonged to them.

Now, therefore, Azoreans ! the moment has arrived which you and
we have so ardently desired. Acclaim, with one accord, our Queen :
re-establish the constitutional charter ; enter once again into the
enjoyment of the country's liberties, which our ancestors enjoyed,
and which were restored to us by the august father and guardian of
Her Majesty; and thus will you afford to all Portuguese a most
glorious example. Viva the Senhora D. Maria 11. ! Viva the Consti-
tutional Charter !

On the llth August following, a powerful Miguelite fleet,
consisting of 22 sail, under Admiral Eoza Coelho, carrying
some 350 guns, and having a large force on board, made an
attempt to land 3,500 troops at Porto Praia on the east
side of Terceira, but were beaten off with the loss of 1,000
men killed, amongst whom was their leader. Colonel
Azevedo Lemos, although the defenders only numbered
1,300 bayonets, besides a small force of cavalry and artillery.
The fleet also sustained considerable damage, and at once
sailed for Lisbon.

The cause of Miguel suffered another irreparable loss by
the death of his mother, D. Carlotta, on the 7th of January,
1830, and, in March following, by that of the Marquis
Chaves. Nothing further occurred until May, 1831, when
Count Villa Flor, after raising the queen's standard on the
island of Pico, landed at St. George's, and after several
sharp skirmishes overcame all opposition. Prom thence he
crossed over to Payal, which island at once pronounced for
the queen, the garrison taking refuge on board the
Miguelite corvette, " Isabel Maria," and an English schooner
chartered for the purpose, which immediately sailed to
strengthen the forces at St. Michael's, the other three small
islands to the west having soon afterwards given in their
adherence to the queen's government. St. Michael's now
onl}^ remained to complete the conquest of the whole group.
Owing to the crafty influence of the priesthood, this island
had become the stronghold of absolutism ; ^reat efforts had

185

therefore been made to set all the fortifications in order.
The J were defended bj 100 guns and garrisoned by four
regiments of the line and a strong force of militia ; a man-
of-war was also stationed here for the defence of the roads.

On the afternoon of the 30th July, 1831, a force of 1,500
men under Villa Flor sailed from Terceira on board two small
ships of war and some smaller merchant vessels, and at
daybreak on the 1st August came in sight of St. Michael's.
Keeping to the north coast, the troops disembarked at the
rocky spot already mentioned, called the Pisqueiro da
Achadinha, where only one boat at a time could approach.
Following the rugged shore for about three-quarters of a
mile, over rocks and boulders, they arrived at the bed of a
mountain sti-eam, up Avhich they ascended to the neigh-
bouring heights, occupied by such defending forces as could
be got together in time, whence a galling musketry fire
was kept up, and immense stones were rolled down upon the
invaders, who, nothing daunted, soon crowned the sides of
the ravine, killing and dispersing the defenders.

The van of the invading force, which had now all landed,
at once seized the road to Eibeira Grande and Ponta
Delgada, the latter distant from this place about fifteen
miles. They had not proceeded far, when, on the heights
of Ponta da Ajuda, a strong detachment of the Miguelites
which had been watching the movements of the little fleet,
was met with, and at once attacked by Villa Flor, who put
the enemy to flight with the loss of their captain, who was
killed, a field-piece which proved of invaluable service to the
invaders, and many prisoners. Another attack by a force of
three hundred men, sent round over the mountains from the
south with the object of falling upon the Count's rear, met
with the same fate. At nightfall, the victorious liberals
encamped at the Ribeira dos Moinhos, a mile and a half
from the village of Maia. On the 2nd, they broke ground,
and marched as far as Porto Formoso, without encountering
the Miguelites ; but, a little in advance of this place, they

186

found them holding the pass of Ladeira da Velha, in force,
estimated at 3,000 men, under General Touvar, with
artillery posted on the surrounding heights — a splendid
strategical position, covering both Eibeira Grande and the
city — the occupying force having its flanks protected by an
inaccessible coast and lofty clifPs on one side, and its front
resting upon the sides of a precijDitous ravine, the narrow
bridle road across which had been cut and batteries erected
for its defence.

As soon as the liberals approached, a heavy fire of
musketry and artillery was opened upon them ; the advanced
positions were, however, soon abandoned, and occupied by
Villa Flor, who now, uniting his forces — with the exception
of a column of five hundred men which he detached to work
round and turn the right of the Miguelites — advanced
himself to deliver the direct assault. So rapid and deter-
mined was the charge of these gallant troops, combined
with the now successful turning movement, that the enemy
gave way on all sides, abandoning his artillery — of which
the liberals were much in need, for they had been unable to
land any — and losing many prisoners. The loss of the
Miguelites in killed and wounded amounted to 350 men ;
that of the liberals being also severe. In this attack the
brave Captain Borges of the Ca9adores, a native of S. Miguel,
who had greatly assisted the cause of Dom Pedro in Terceira
with the 5th battalion, was killed.

On the 3rd August, the Count entered Ponta Delgada in
triumph ; the citizens, upon the news of the defeat, having
proclaimed the queen and the " Carta Constitucional," dis-
armed the disheartened garrison, whose general, Touvar,
with his staff, and Miguel's captain-general of the A9ores,
Admiral Prego, had fled on board the corvette " D. Isabel
Maria," assisted in their flight by Mr. Eead, the British
consul.

On the news of the victory reaching Sta. Maria, that
island at once espoused the rule of D. Maria II. ; and thus

187

ceased for ever, in the archipelago, the galling yoke — so
long borne — of Miguel's government.

The spoils of war in all the islands, which fell into the
hands of Villa Flor, now amounted to 250 guns, 5,500
muskets, 166 cwt. of gunpowder and much-needed ammu-
nition, enabling the Pedroites to raise a loan in St. Michael's
alone of £30,000.

Whilst the ordinary quiet of these peaceful islands was
disturbed by these unusual events, the political condition of
Brazil was approaching a climax. The wretched and in-
glorious war with Monte Video, and subsequently with the
Argentine Confederation, into which Dom Pedro had
plunged, together with continued and serious conflicts with
the representative chambers, owing to the open protection
extended by the emperor to Portuguese immigrants, induced
the sovereign to abdicate the throne in favor of his son, the
present enlightened emperor, Dom Pedro II., which he did
on the 7th April, 1831. The ex-emperor then assumed the
title of Duke of Braganza, and embarking for Europe with
his wife on board the British man-of-war " La Volage,"
Captain Lord Colchester, arrived off Fayal on his way
to Cherbourg on the 30th May, and continued his voyage
after sending on shore through the British consul, Mr.
Henry Walker, the following letter to Count Villa
Flor : —

My dear Count and Fkiend,

Having, in consequence of a revolution of the troops and
people, Avhich took place in the emj^ire of Brazil, abdicated in favour
of my son, now D. Pedro II., the crown Avhich the Brazilians had
spontaneously offered me, and which I defended so long as honour
and the constitution of that empire permitted me to do so, I resolved
uj)on going to Europe, and am now on the way on board the English
frigate " La Volage."

The forced circumstances of a voyage of sixty-days have brought
me in sight of the harbour of the island of Fayal, and here the
happy news reaches me, that your Excellency, ever animated by

188

the purest sentiments of loyalty, love of country and the august
person of Dona Maria II., my much loved daughter, has once
more made the cause of justice and reason triumph, supplanting
the usurping party in the islands of St. Jorge and Pico, wrenching
them by virtue and courage from the claws of treachery and
despotism. This liberal and noble act will magnify, if possible, your
Excellency's memory, when the impartial pen of history shall indicate
to a free people the names of the heroes, their defenders.

The Queen of Portugal, who left Rio de Janeiro on the same
occasion as I, is now on her way to Brest in the frigate " La Seine,"
"vvhich the delegates of the French nation at that court placed at the
disposal of the said august lady to convey her to that port.

As the natural guardian of my daughter, as a true constitu-
tionalist, and an old affectionate friend of your Excellency, I take
advantage of this happy opportunity to give you a proof of my
respect for so much valour and constancy, and of my thanks for such
heroic and sustained sentiments of honour and fidelity to the sovereign
cause of unfettered law, and in the name of H. M. F. Majesty
I authorise you to make known to all the brave defenders of her
imperishable rights the high consideration in which the same august
lady holds such high services. I can assure your Excellency, and all
honourable Portuguese, that, unwearied with promoting in Europe the
interests of my daughter, as her father and as a private individual, I
shall devote myself with all my heart in favour of the cause of
legitimacy and the constitution.

If I am unable to have the 23leasure of showing your Excellency
in some other way my satisfaction and esteem, let this letter serve as
the more authentic proof of gratitude and friendship, which your
Excellency will preserve as long as you live."

(Signed) D. Pedro de Alcantaka e Botjrbox,

On board the frigate •' La Volage."
30th May, 183L

The fortunate fisherman into whose care this now^
interesting historical missive was entrusted, received at the
ex-emperor's hands four gold pieces, together with a slip,
on which were written these few words, probably intended
as a proclamation : —

189

He who now speaks to you, and gives you these four pieces, is

the father of your Queen. To arms, then, to arms, against

usurpation ! To arms, to arms ! for the Count of Villa Flor is

at Pico.

(Signed) D. Pedko.

From Cherbourg, Dom Pedro proceeded to London, and
there several months were spent with the Duke of Palmella,
and other champions of constitutionalism, in fitting out the
expedition which was ultimately destined to restore Dona
Maria IT. to the throne. At this stage, the forces consisted
of a few hundred Portuguese refugees, in France and
England, but chiefly of French and British auxiliaries, the
latter numbering some 500 bayonets, under Colonel Hodges —
equipped under considerable difficulties in the teeth of our
Foreign Enlistment Act. This is not the place to detail the
deeds of this handful of brave Englishmen, swelled by
subsequent reinforcements from England and Ireland ; but
the sequel shows that they bore the brunt of many a hard-
contested fight, being ever in the thickest of the fray, and
leaving more than one-half their number on the slopes of
Oporto. The expeditionary fleet consisted of the "Rainha de
Portugal,'' 46 guns; " D. Maria Amelie," 42; "Villa Flor,"
16; "Terceira," 7; and "Fileira"; some other transports
having been ordered in England to rendezvous at Terceira ;
and set sail from Belle Isle, in France, on the 10th February,
1832, with Dom Pedro, the Duke of Palmella, and other
leaders of the movement, arriving at St. Michael's on the
22nd Februarj^, where they were received by the military
commandant. Count D'Alva, with great ceremony. As Dom
Pedro was the first royal personage who had ever visited the
island, the people flocked from all parts, and exhibited
more curiosity to see him than enthusiasm for his cause,
and they apparently expected to witness in him some super-
human being, for an amusing anecdote is related of a
country woman in the crowd who, within earshot of the
ex-emperor, loudly exclaimed on beholding him, in some-

190

thing akin to contemptuous tones, '^ Oh senhor, tern olhos,
nariz, e boca, como o nosso Man'l ! " (Oh Lord, he's got eyes,
nose, and mouth, just like our Tom !)

On the 2nd March the ships proceeded to Terceira,
where Dom Pedro was received with great rejoicings and
tokens of affection. Here he met his faithful adherents, the
Counts de Villa-Eeal, and Eendufe, Candido Xavier, and
others. On the 7th he declared himself generalissimo of
the naval and military forces, appointing Yice- Admiral
Sartorius,"^ an old Trafalgar hero, to the command of the
former, and the Count Villa Flor to that of the latter.
A month was here occupied in recruiting, and the following
proclamation was issued to the Azoreans, and, as it reviews
in emphatic and precise terms the condition of Portugal at
the period of these occurrences, will well repay perusal : —

[PROCLAMATION.]

Called upon to succeed my august father to the throne of Portugal,
as his first-born son, by the fundamental laws of the monarchy, men-
tioned in the charter of law and perpetual edict of the 1 3th November,
1826, I was formally recognised as King of Portugal by all the
powers, and by the Portuguese nation, which sent to me at the court
of Rio de Janeiro a deputation of the three estates ; and desirous, in
spite of the greatest sacrifices, to secure the happiness of my loyal

* Sir George Rose Sartorius, G.C.B., died April 13th, 1885, at the great age
of 95, having been born August 9th, 1790. He entered the navy as a cadet, at
the early age of 11. During his long career Sir George Sartorius saw mixch
service. Amongst other incidents in which he took part, he was present at the
surrender of Napoleon I., in 1815, to the squadron under the command of Sir
Frederick Maitland of the " Bellerophon" — he being captain of the " Slaney " — and
he conveyed the news of the surrender to England. For the part he took,
on behalf of the young queen of Portugal, against the visurper, Dom Miguel, he
forfeited his rank as captain in the English navy. It was, however, some years
afterwards, restored to him. For his services to Portugal he was made Viscount
de Piedade, Count of Penhafirme, a Knight Grand Cross of the Order of
St. Bento d'Avis, and was decorated with the Grand Cross of the Order of the
Tower and the Sword.

191

subjects in both hemispheres, and not wishing that the reciprocal
relations of friendship, so happily established between the two
countries, by the independence of both, should possibly become com-
promised by the fortuitous union of the two crowns on one head, I
decided uj)on abdicating the crown of Portugal in favour of my much
esteemed and beloved daughter, D. Maria da Gloria, who was also
recognised by all the powers and by the Portuguese nation. At the
time of completing this abdication, my duties and sentiments towards
the country which had given me birth, and to the noble Portuguese
nation which had sworn fidelity to me, induced me to follow the
example of my illustrious grandfather, Dom John IV., and, taking
advantage of my short reign, to restore, as he had done, to the
Portuguese nation the possession of its ancient rights and privileges,
thus also fulfilling the promises of my august father, of glorious
memory, announced in his proclamation of 31st May, 1823, and in
the charter of 4th June, 1824.

With this object in view, I promulgated the Constitutional Charter
of 29th April, 1826, in which is virtually reinstated the ancient form
of Portuguese government, the constitution of the State ; and that
this charter should in reality be a confirmation and a sequel to the
fundamental law of the monarchy, I guaranteed in the first place the
most solemn protection and the most profound respect to the holy
religion of our fathers.

I confirmed the law of succession with all the clauses relating to
the chambers, as had previously been practised by D. Affonso V. and
D. Joao III.

I recognised the two fundamental principles of the Portuguese
government, that is, that the laws should only be framed by the
Cortes, and that the contributions and administration of the public
funds should only be discussed by them.

Finally, I determined that there should be gathered in one chamber
the two arms of the clergy and nobility, composed of the great ones
of the kingdom, ecclesiastics and laymen ; for experience has shown
the inconvenience resulting from the separate deliberations of these
two branches.

I added some other provisions, all tending to establish the indepen-
dence of the nation, the dignity and authority of the throne, and the
liberty and prosperity of the people ; and not wishing to subject
these two to the risks and inconveniences of a minority, I thought

192

that the only means of securing them would be to unite my august
daughter to a Portuguese prince, who naturally, by conformity of
religion and birth, would be more interested than anyone else in the
complete realization of so many benefits which it is my intention to
bestow upon the Portuguese nation ; persuading myself also that the
good example of my virtuous parent, the monarch at whose court he
resided, would have rendered him worthy of appreciating the great
confidence which a brother reposed in him, and who entrusted the
destiny of his much loved daughter to his care. Such is the origin
of the choice which I made of the Infante D. Miguel — a fatal choice
which has caused me to deplore so many innocent victims, and which
will mark one of the most disastrous epochs in Portuguese history.

The Infante D. Miguel after having sworn fealty to me as his
natural sovereign, and to the constitutional charter, in the quality of
a Portuguese subject; after having solicited from me the post of
regent of the kingdom of Portugal, Algarves and its dependencies,
w^hich I in effect conferred upon him with the title of my represen-
tative, by decree of 3rd July, 1827; after having entered upon the
exercise of such eminent functions, taken a free and voluntary oath to
maintain the charter of constitution just as I had bestowed it upon
the nation, and to deliver the crown to D. Maria II., as soon as she
should become of age — he condescended to commit an attempt without
example from the circumstances which attended it.

Under pretext of deciding a question which neither in fact nor by
right was in dispute — violating the charter of constitution Avhich he
had just sworn to uphold — he convoked the three estates of the kingdom
in the most illegal and illusory manner, thus abusing the authority
which had been confided in him, and trampling under foot the respect
due to all the soverigns of Europe, who had recognised as Queen of
Portugal D. Maria II.; he caused the supposed mandatories who were
assembled under his power and influence to declare that it M^as to
him and not to me that the crown of Portugal should have devolved
upon the death of D. Joao VI. In this manner the Infante D. Miguel
usurped the throne which I had confided to his keeping.

The foreign powers stigmatised this as an act of rebellion, imme-
diately retiring their rej^resentatives from the Court of Lisbon, and
my ministers plenipotentiary, as Emperor of Brazil, at the courts of
Vienna and London lodged the two solemn protests of 21st of May
and 8th of August of 1828, against all and any violation of my

193

hereditary rights and those of my daughter ; against the abolition of
the institutions spontaneously granted by me and legally established in
Portugal ; against the illegitimate and insidious convocation of the
ancient Estates of that kingdom, which had ceased to exist by
virtue of an old proscription ; against the precipitate decision of the
assembled three Estates of the realm, and the arguments by which they
supported it ; notably against the false interpretation of a law framed
in the Cortes of Lamego, and another one passed on the 12th Septem-
ber, 1642, by D. Joao IV., at the request of the three Estates, and in
confirmation of the above mentioned law of the General Cortes of
Lamego.

All these protests were sealed with blood which has almost daily
flown since then from so many thousands of victims of the purest
fidelity ; and in truth this criminal usurpation, placing the Prince who
perpetrated it on the highway of illegality and violence, has placed
on the shoulders of the imfortunate Portuguese a weight of evils
heavier than any they have yet supported.

In order to sustain a government which boasted of emanating
from the national will, it was necessary to erect scaffolds on which
were immolated a great number of those who tried to resist the
atrocious yoke of usurpation ; all the prisons in the kingdom were
filled with victims ; thus punishing, not crime, but loyalty and respect
to sworn faith. Innumerable innocent victims were sent to the terrible
deserts of Africa, others have ended their existence in horrible jails
imder the influence of anguish and torments ; and, finally, foreign
countries became filled with Portuguese fugitives from their country,
constrained to support in distant climes the bitterness of an unmerited
exile ! Thus were unchained over the country where I was born
all the horrors of which human perversity was capable.

The people, oppressed by the outrages which the governing
authorities committed upon them; the pages of Portuguese history
stained by the outrageous satisfactions with which the fanatic govern-
ment of usurpation has been compelled to expiate some acts of its
thoughtless atrocity practised against foreign subjects in defiance of
their governments ; diplomatic and commercial relations interrupted
with the whole of Europe — in fact, tyranny defiling the throne, misery
and oppression choking the noblest sentiments of the nation. This
is the painful picture which Portugal has presented during the last
four years.

194

My heart, afflicted by the existence of such horrible evils, consoles
itself however by recognising the visible protection which God, the
dispenser of thrones, grants to the noble and just cause which we
defend.

When we contemplate that in spite of the greatest obstacles of all
kinds, loyalty w^as able to preserve in the island of Terceira (the
asylum and bulwark of Portuguese liberty, already displayed in other
epochs of our own history) the scanty means with which its noble
defenders have not only succeeded in bringing once more under
the rule of my august daughter the other islands of the Azores,
but also in gathering together the forces upon which we now
depend, I cannot refrain from recognising the special protection of
Divine Providence. Confident of his support, and the actual regency
having represented to me in the name of H. M. F. Majesty, by
means of a dej^utation which waited upon the said sovereign and upon
me, the lively wishes which the inhabitants of the Azores, and the
other faithful subjects of the Queen residing in the above-mentioned
island, that I, taking ujDon myself the part Avhich belongs to me in
matters relating to Her Majesty, as chief of the house of Braganza,
should employ at such a crisis as this such prompt and efficacious
measures as circumstances imperiously demand ; actuated finally by
the duties which the fundamental laws of Portugal impose upon me, I
resolved to abandon that repose which my actual circumstances
would lead me to, and leaving on the continent the objects which are
most dear to my heart, I came to join the Portuguese, who at the cost
of the greatest sacrifices, have borne themselves by their heroic valour
against all the efforts of usur2:)ation.

After tendering thanks in all the isles of the Azores to the indi-
viduals who composed the regency which in my absence I ajDpointed,
for the patriotism with which they discharged their duties in face of
so many difficulties, I shall resume, for the reasons already mentioned,
the authority reposed in the said regency, and which I propose to
retain until the legitimate government of my august daughter be
established in Portugal, and the general Cortes of the nation, which
I will immediately call together, declare whether it be con-
venient or not that I continue to exercise the said rights which are
mentioned in Article 12 of the constitutional charter, and should this
question be resolved in the affirmative, I shall take oath as the said
charter enacts, for the exercise of the permanent regency. The time

195

will then arrive when the oppressed Portuguese will see the end of
the wrongs which for so long have afflicted them.

Fears should not be entertained for the vexations or revenge of
their brothers who will be redeemed at the moment of being
embraced ; those who have been so long exiled from their native soil
will deplore with them the misfortunes through which they have
passed, and promise to bury them in eternal oblivion.

As for the wretches whose culpable consciences fear the ruin
of usurpation of which they were the abettors, they may rest assured
that if the action of the law is able to punish them with the loss of
those political rights which they so shamefully abused to the
discredit of their country, none of them shall be deprived either of
his life, of his civil rights, or his property, except the rights of
the third estate (religious orders), as unfortunately happened to so
many honourable men, whose crime Avas to defend the law of the
country.

I shall publish a decree of amnesty, in which shall be laid down
the limits of this exemption, and can only here declare that no
ordinance whatever shall be enforced touching passed occurrences or
opinions ; suitable measures being adopted so that no one may in
future be disturbed for said reasons. Upon this basis shall I constantly
occupy myself, with the most unswerving diligence for the furtherance
of many other measures, not less acceptable to the honour and
welfare of the Portuguese nation ; one of the first being the re-
establishment of the political and commercial relations which existed
between Portugal and the other states ; religiously respecting their
rights and scruj^ulously avoiding all or any comjiromise in questions
of foreign policy, which may disturb in future the allied and neigh-
bouring nations. Portugal will j^rofit by the advantages resulting
from internal peace and from the consideration of strangers ; the jDublic
credit will become re-established by the acknowledgment of all the
debts of the state, whether national or foreign, legally contracted, and
on that account means will be found for their payment, which must
without doubt influence public prosperity.

To that part of the Portuguese army which, at present deceived,
supports usurpation, I tender an assurance of welcome — provided
that, renouncing the defence of tyranny, it spontaneously joins
the ranks of the liberating army, an army which will lend its
strength to the maintenance of the laws and will become the firm

196

support of the constitutional throne, and of the welfare of its fellow
citizens.

I also assure those military men belonging to the reserve, and
who did not take part in the defence of usurpation, that they shall not
be inconvenienced, but will be immediately dispensed from the service,
so that they may return to their families and domestic labours, from
which they have so long been separated.

Not doubting but that these my frank expressions will penetrate
into the hearts of all honorable Portuguese who love their country, and
that they will not hesitate to unite themselves to me and to the loyal
and brave compatriots who accompany me in the heroic task of the
restoration to the constitutional throne of the most faithful queen, my
august daughter, I declare that I am not going to carry to Portugal
the horrors of civil war, but peace and reconciliation : hoisting over
the walls of Lisbon the royal standard of the said sovereign, as the
unanimous votes of all the cultured nations demand."

On board the frigate " Rainha de Portugal."

(Signed) D. Pedeo, Duke of Beaganza.
12th February, 1832.

On the 7tli April, Dom Pedro arrived at Fayal on board
the " Superb," the first steamer that had ever ploughed the
waters of that harbour, and was received by the inhabitants
with every mark of respect, evinced by the most enthusiastic
rejoicings ; it was here, at a dinner given in his honor on
the 10th by the British consul, that a celebrated toast was
proposed, resulting in a slight disagreement between Dom
Pedro and Admiral Sartorius, which afterwards opened into
a wide breach. The gallant officer, in toasting " the ladies,"
invited the company to drink to " the empire of woman,"
which Dom Pedro erroneously interpreting as an intended
slight to the cause of the queen, never forgave ; needless to
say, that a more unmerited charge was never brought against
a brave and most courteous and loyal gentleman, but nothing
could ever induce Dom Pedro to regard the words of the
toast in any other light. On the 11th, Dom Pedro left Fayal
for St. Michael's, calling at San Jorge and Terceira, where
some time was spent in picking up recruits and organising

197

the forces, whicli now numbered close upon eiglit thousand
men of all arms. Never did the Bay of Ponta Delgada look so
busy or to greater advantage than on this occasion, for nearly
fifty vessels of various sizes, and altogether of 6,000 tons bur-
den, were anchored in the roads for the purpose of conveying
these troops in their descent upon the coast of Portugal.

Drilling was the order of the day, Dom Pedro being,
himself, indefatigable in inspecting and parading the troops,
in which he seemed to take great delight. He v^as active,
besides, in framing and issuiug decrees, amongst the most
notable of which may be mentioned the abolition of all
conventual and monastic institutions in the A5ores. Their
property was immediately securalised and incorporated with
that of the state. By this decree, which was dated at Ponta
Delgada, 17th May, 1832, eleven convents in the islands
were suppressed, four only being maintained during the
lives of the inmates who elected to remain in them ; of the
twenty-three monasteries belonging to various orders of
friarhood, all but four were suppressed. A Portuguese
writer, commenting upon these sweeping measures, worthy
of a Pombal or Saldanha, quaintly remarks that the abolition
of these institutions was not felt by the community at large
to such an extent as might have been supposed, owing to
the inmates having for some time past given themselves up
more to the pleasures of things secular than was provided
for by their statutes.

It is a question how far the sudden abolition of institu-
tions which, although useless and even pernicious in their
effects, yet dispensed with generous hand charity in a country
where beggars abound, and where no poor relief establish-
ments exist, was a politic step on the part of Dom Pedro.

The monasteries, in particular, when the decree of
abolition took effect, poured out their inmates, who were
counted by thousands, upon the world at large, penniless
and utterly unfitted for work. Many of these men, driven
to desperation, embraced with fierce energy the cause of

198

Miguel — the champion of Catholicism — and were found in
the front ranks of his troops, cross in one hand, and sword
in the other, urging- their men on to death or victory, and,
had it not been for this strong element of priestcraft
diffused throughout Miguel's army, this hideous fratricidal
war would never have lasted the time it did. The fate of
the nuns was almost as hard, for the majority of these
belonged to the wealthier classes, and on joining the sister-
hood, whether voluntarily or not, had enriched its revenues
with what would otherwise have been their marriage portions,
which were all sequestrated on their eviction — no compen-
sation being allowed them.

The priests everywhere preached the cause of Miguel, and
swelled his ranks by threatening the peasantry with the terrors
of excommunication on their failing to espouse his cause.

Another decree issued by Dom Pedro at S. Miguel, and
which aimed at bettering the condition of the small farmers
and tenants, related to the abolition of the '' dizimo das
miun9as," or tithe, consisting of a tenth part of their cattle,
asses, horses, poultry, fruits, milk, &c., which, with other
burthens, impoverished the people. He also made many
beneficial improvements touching the government of morga-
dos, or entailed estates; many of which were on the verge
of ruin, owing to the existing law forbidding the power of
contracting loans by mortgage on the projDerties for necessary
improvements^ the owners being unable out of their revenues
to do more than barely live, and pay their relatives the
" alimentos," or annuities prescribed by law.

Educational rules were also formulated providing for the
bettnr elementary instruction of the labouring classes, and
enactments were made limiting to a vast extent the, until
now, all powerful influence of the priests. The revenues of
the islands and public expenditure were reorganised, and the
courts of justice remodelled on a healthier basis.

The astonished Azoreans, incapable of realising or
appreciating the ultimate effect of these far-reaching

199

measures, meekly acquiesced in them, and it was only by
degrees that they began to comprehend the full force of their
meaning, and how much they tended to emancipate them
from the clutches of the hungry morgados"^ and rapacious
priests who had, until then, ground them to the very dust.

The attitude which the British Government adopted
with regard to this struggle was inconceivably hostile to the
liberal cause and the constitution. The Duke of Welling-
ton's unmistakable leaning at that time to absolute rule
induced him to openly embrace the cause of Miguel, and
pledge his government to a line of policy totally at variance
with the principles of liberty which characterise the people
of England. This was evidently the result of prejudice,
and a mistaken estimate of the characters of the two
brothers ; and yet he had ample opportunity of gauging the
disposition of Miguel.

Mr. Greville, in his Memoirs, relates a conversation he
had with the Duke, on the 24th August, 1833 : —

" Talking of Miguel, the Duke related that he was at
Strathfieldsaye with Palmella, where, in the library, they
were settling the oath that Miguel should take. Miguel
would pay no attention, and instead of going into the
business and saying what oath he would consent to take "
(the question was, whether he should swear fidelity to Pedro
or to Maria), "he sat flirting with the Princess Therese
Esterhazy. The Duke said to Palmella, ' This will never do ;
he must settle the terms of the oath; and if he is so careless
in an afiPair of such moment, he will never do his duty.'
The Duke added that the Government would be very foolish
to interfere for Pedro, who was a ruffian, and for the constitu-
tion, which was odious."

Admiral Napier, who perhaps did more than any other
man to firmly seat Dona Maria on the throne, thus writes

* The word " Morgado " was alike applied to the heir of an estate or to the
entailed estate itself, the owners of such estates having, by courtsey and distinc-
tion, the title prefixed to their surnames.

200

of Dom Pedro, whose character he had many opportunities
of studying. "He had the appearance of a savage-looking
man, but that was not his character ; on the contrary, he
had no cruelty in his disposition. D. Pedro's name will go
down to posterity as having freed the land of his birth from
despotism, and restored the throne of his daughter, and
without having anything personal in view except the desire
of gaining glory. He was the most active man I ever saw ;
rose early, and looked into everything himself. He was a
man of courage, but not of dash. He was frank, and I
believe sincere, and hated both intriguing and lying."

On the 20th June the fleet set sail from St. Michael,
arriving off the Bay of Mindello, ten miles to the north of
Oporto, on the 8th July. A few hours sufficed to land every man,
and so great was the panic which their unexpected approach
created in the ranks of the Miguelites, that Santa Martha,
their general, at once evacuated Oporto, and retreated across
the Douro with 10,000 men. Thus was the first step taken
towards liberating Portugal from that cruel despotism and
tyranny which had already plunged a brave and generous
people into untold miseries, and was gradually abandoning
them to crass superstition and ignorance. To those
interested in the ultimate result of this glorious struggle of
a few half-disciplined patriots against 80,000 well-armed and
drilled troops, and Dom Pedro's untimely end, I would refer
them to the pages of Napier, Shaw, and Bollaert. Suffice it
here to say that never in the history of nations was a change
of government so fraught with momentous and beneficial
results to its country as was that of D. Maria 11.^ to Portugal.

* Queen Maria II. died in 1853. As these pages are passing through the
press, the announcement is made of the death (on the 15th December, 1885) of the
titular King of Portugal, Dom Fernando, Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, who
was married to Queen Maria on the 9th April, 1836. This prince possessed rare
artistic taste and knowledge, and did much to foster archaeological and kindred
pursuits in his adopted country. He was universally respected, and even beloved,
by all classes of Portuguese society.

Chapter XII.

AcHAUA DAS Furnas — Valley and Village of Furnas — The Lake— Grena"—
Hermits— The Geysers— Analyses of the Mineral Waters — Antelope-
Horned Goats — "The Tank" — The Baths— Chalybeate and Sulphur
Springs — Povoa(;ao — The Inhabitants — Moorish Blood — Adieu to the

" Furnas."

Through the rich greenery below

Were sprinkled quiet cots,
Each fenced by bristling spires of maize.

Or yams in marshy plots ;
While mulberry, and quince and fig

Besprent the sunnier spots.

" Charcoal Burners y

The valley of the Fiu^nas being now the objective point, the
road is retraced as far as Maia, a small uninteresting village,
boasting a tobacco factory ; the road gradually ascends, until
we reach a level heathery plateau known as the " Achada das
Furnas," where cattle are met browsing here and there,
on the spare grasses the poor pumiceous soil affords them.
For miles around nothing can be seen on this arid waste, but
patches of the heath shrub (Erica azorica), queiro (Calluna
vulgaris, L.) and broom (Sida layiceolata) ; every now and
then, the rich bloom of bunches of the uva da serra, or
wortleberry [Vaccinium cylindraceum) relieving the monotony
of vegetation. A closer acquaintance with these sub-acid
berries, excellent in tarts, will, if in the i3roper season, be
subsequently made in the valley below, where baskets of
them are, with wild strawberries, offered for a few coppers
by children who have gathered them on these inhospitable
hills. The long and eerie ride across this table-land, with
nothing but distant hill-tops to break its uniformity,
might strike a Ben Jonson " with all the gloom and
monotony of Siberian solitude," but the climate it enjoys is
certauily the most crisp and exhilarating of any in the island,

202

and during the hot summer months, those debilitated by
prolonged residence on the coast would do well to pay
frequent visits to the Achada and regain their vis and
energy by breathing its pure and tonic air. The Count da
Praia has been recently clearing and levelling extensive
tracts of this land, with a view to growing wheat — with
what success, it will be curious to see.

Following the capital carriage road which traverses this
plateau, we presently reach a part where it abruptly descends,
known as the Pedras do Gallego, and here a scene, likely to
impress the dullest imagination, breaks upon our delighted
view, for suddenly, hundreds of feet below, lies the " Cintra
Michaelense," that Azorean " Vale of Tempe," the boast and
pride of every islander — the Yalley of the Furnas. Nestling
amidst green trees and caracoling brooks,

in which the willows dip

Their pendent boughs, stooping as if to drink —

stand the white pigmy-looking village habitations of this
cherished Baise. Right across, on the opposite broken edge
of the crater — for this beautiful valley, like Rome, lies in
the very bosom of a once fierce volcano — can be discerned the
rising smoke of the ever-boiling geysers, their sulphurous and
noxious fumes causing all vegetation in their vicinity to perish.

A broken but picturesque and cultivated country extends
for some two miles W.S.W. to E.N.E., until it is lost, on
the right, in another great depression now occupied by the
lovely lake of the Furnas ; and along the side on which
we stand is seen what remains of the north-east portion of
the trunk of the once vast crater, forming, in places,
a vertical and over-hanging semi-circle several hundred
feet high. On our left winds the splendidly engineered road
leading down into the valley, which — still lingering on this
" vision of Paradise " — we leisurely descend.

However sultry and oppressive it may be in other parts
of the island, here a sempiternal spring would seem to reign,
and when, in the height of summer, vegetation in less

203

favonred spots is dried and parclied, wifcli scarce a breath of
air to bring relief, in this vernal vale, the gentle murmur
and whispering of the tall poplar trees (Populus nigra
and cmgulata), like countless iEolian harps, and the welcome
gurgle and ripple of rapid brooks, distilled on the surround-
ing wooded heights, may ever be heard.

Forever sunny, forever blooming,

Nor cloud nor frost can touch that spot,
Where the happy people are ever roaming.

The bitter pangs of the past forgot.

No wonder then, that during the hot summer months a
great influx of visitors takes place, not only for the gain
of several degrees in temperature, but for the sake of
the celebrated baths which have made this valley so jnstly
famous. For their accommodation, a very fair hotel has been
constructed, and is kept by one Jeronimo, where visitors
for a moderate charge are tolerably entertained, although
Boniface, otherwise good natured and obliging enough, fails
to sufficiently look after the cleanliness of his establishment.
No Lucullus-like feasts of flamingoes' tongues and pea-
cocks' brains await the Sybarite, but the limpit, conger-
eel, and octopus enter largely into the domestic economy of
mine host. Still the dishes are numerous, and there is
always something eatable on the table ; considering the
small charge made, from 3s. 6d. to 4s. a-day, and the distance
many of the provisions have to come, it is astonishing
how well Snr. Jeronimo caters. The Portuguese generally
eschew the heavy nitrogenous food, which our dietetic
mismanagement, and perhaps the climate of England,
habituates us to — a diet so fatal to the consumptive,
increasing, as it is said to do, the deposit of the tubercle ;
but, here, more regard is paid to the stew-pot, the '' gizados "
turned out by the native chef being delicious, light and inex-
pensive gastronomic productions. Unfortunately, the lazy,
relaxing climate, though it makes existence to some a
positive pleasure, kills all energy, and the native well-to-do.

205

foregoing' all exercise, suffers horribly at middle-age from
liver and indigestion ; his ^'estomago," as he will pathetically
tell you, being his greatest bane and enemy.

A dash of garlic — not altogether unpalatable to those
who give it a fair trial — characterises Portuguese cookery ;
and the use of the dried carollas of the safflower {Garthamus
tinctorius), for flavouring and colouring food, will recall to
Anglo-Indians a culinary practice so much in vogue in the
East. The delicious perfume arising from a patch of
safflower in the flush of bloom is a thing to be remembered.

The hotel is situated in the very centre of the valley, and
in all directions are charming lanes and narrow pathways,
draped with greenest leaf.

The bird's-eye view of the lake having excited our
curiosity, we cannot rest until we have explored its shores,
and as the distance is about a mile and a half, and we shall have
plenty of walking, the best way is to order donkeys to carry
us there. Approached on this side, the most conspicuous
object is a large white house on the opposite bank, on an
estate known as Grena,"^ formerly the property of the late
Mr. James Hinton, the celebrated London aurist, but now
belonging to Mrs. Hayes, of Ponta Delgada. It is beauti-
fully situated on a slight eminence overlooking the lake,
every window in which presents charming views of the
glinting waters and wooded hills around. Here, besides
the cheery welcome of the kind hostess, if at home, visitors
will find much to interest them, and I can conceive no fitter
place than this for the temporary residence of those in quest
of health, or anxious to escape for a time from the carking
cares of life ; the soft balsamic air, and dewy freshness,
which always reigns here, contributing to make life without

* Fifty years ago, this estate was purchased by Mr, Harvey, a member of the
Yacht Squadron, with the intention of erecting a mansion upon it, but circum-
stances preventing the carrying out of this idea, the property, in 1858, passed into
the hands of Mr. Consul Vines, who built the present house. Mrs. Vines, a niece
of Daniel O'Connell, named it Grena, from the family seat near Killarney.

206

its exciting amusements an absolute enjoyment. The estate,
planted chiefly with pine and other timber trees, possesses
also a considerable orange garden, and extensive pasture
lands on the Achada above it, the whole comprising some
four hundred English acres in extent. Here no horrid
notices of " Trespassers will be prosecuted " offend the eye,
but you may roam about as you list, through umbrageous
paths or up the steep face of the hill behind, meeting at
every step some fresh and pleasant point of interest.

In the grounds, and only a few minutes' walk from the
house, an extremely pretty and lofty waterfall tumbles over
the beetling cliff, with a single leap of one hundred feet,
attaining in rainy seasons a considerable volume, draining
as it does the extensive table-land above, and forming a
bellowing and brawling stream, rushing to empty itself into
the lake below, over masses of huge boulders and rocks,
which make one wonder how they ever came there, forming-
pools of clear and icy-cold water very tempting to the bather.

Not far from this cascade, and at its foot, is a small
deposit of ligDite, which will be interesting to the geologist.
It is about 34 inches thick, underlying a series of lava beds,
the result of successive volcanic eruptions, extending over
^eons of time. The lake, some 865 feet above sea level, and
covering an area of about three square miles, owes its origin,
like all the others in the island, to igneous action, but
differs from them in the softened beauty of its character.
Perfect stillness reigns throughout this delightful region, the
only sign of life consisting in the slow passage of some
solitary gull, or the circling flight of a couple of buzzards ;
but at night this state of things alters, for there are
thousands of frogs (Rana esculenta) in this lake. Until
introduced in 1820, by the late Yiscount da Praya, who
brought some from Lisbon, frogs were quite unknown in the
island ; now, however, they swarm wherever there is water,
and evening is rendered hideous by their unmelodious
croaking, rivalled only by the unceasing barking of the

207

numerous village curs, wliich, remarkable for nothing else,
really seem to be the direct descendants of the three, or,
according to some mythologists, fifty-throated dog of Erebus.
The number of frogs in the lake must be prodigious, for it is
said that, as in the case of the common cricket and other cicadse,
only the males utter these discordant love -calls, to charm and
attract the opposite sex — a circumstance which made Xenar-
chus, the observant Greek poet, enviously exclaim,

Happy the cicadas live, since they all have voiceless wives I

The male mosquito is perfectly innocuous, the female only
stinging and producing the maddening buzz.

As regards the frog, however, the thanks of humanity are
due to this slimy inhabitant of the waters, if it be really a fact
that the first dawn of the science of electricity arose from ob-
servations made on the muscular twitching of his little body.

There are none of those pretty lizards in S. Miguel,
which lend such a charm to country life in Portugal and
Madeira, but in the island of Graciosa I caught and pre-
served specimens of two distinct species, one being evidently
Lacerta viridis, the commonest of the lacertidce, the other,
L. dttgesi, peculiar to Madeira and Tenerilfe. Graciosa is
the only island in the archipelago where they are at present
to be found. They were probably carried there accidentally
from Madeira. Considering the ease with which the eggs
of lizards can be transported amongst vegetables and plants
to great distances, it really appears strange that they have
not, long ere this, made their way to all the islands, for
Ovington found them in large numbers in Madeira, as far
back as 1689, when they were already very destructive to
the grape and other fruit crops.

Before every height surrounding this lake became cres-
ted with the pine tree, evaporation went on at a great rate,
sujSicient in thirsty seasons to considerably narrow the limits
of its waters ; now, however, when such an immense acreage
absorbs and permanent^ retains 50 per cent, of whatever
moisture the trees attract, this evaporation is being con-

208

stantly returned and compensated, until fears are entertained
about the low lying lands around.

For giving freshness ai^d humidity to dry climates there
is nothing like the pine tree, its alembic or distilling pro-
perties being enormous, but here, where the friendly Gulf
Stream supplies this requisite, it is perhaps found to be
" de trop."

The depth of the lake in its greatest depression is
50 feet ; but of late years, as we have seen, its waters have
sensibly risen. Like most of the others in the island, it
abounds with gold and silver fish.

The Portuguese are said to have been the first to bring
the gold fish from China to the Cape, and thence to Lisbon
and the islands. M. Drouet asks how this fish, probably
introduced into private tanks and ponds, is now found
distributed over the islands, every lake or tarn, however
remote, teeming with them ; and he sees in this a natural
propagation without the aid of man, attributing their
spread to the agency of aquatic birds.

Several sailing boats are generally sent here from town
in the summer, enabling its beauties to be fully explored
and enjoyed, but like all deeply embosomed waters, with
breaks and chines in their high banks, it is subject to sudden
squalls of quite sufficient severity to make " turn turtle " a
not infrequent occurrence to those unacquainted with its
navigation.

On its north-east margin, and within a few hundred
yards of Grena, is to be seen a dense column of smoke
canopying a group of most interesting thermal springs ;
they occupy an area of about an a(;re and a quarter in extent,
situated at the foot of the precipitous Pico do Perro, the
centre of the space being filled by a considerable natural
basin containing a large volume of seething and boiling
acidulated water, forming the largest and deepest geyser in
the island. The mass of water, however, is adventitious,
and was either left by the receding lake (which in very rainy

209

seasons occasionally covers these springs) or lias been fed by
percolation from the brook close by. From this, it will be
seen that both the temperature and mineral constituents of
this soui'ce vary considerably. At the time of M. Fouque's
visit, the quantity of water appears to have been small, and
the conditions favorable for analysis, which gave the follow-

ing results : —

Sulphate of soda . .

• • • •

. .085

Sulphate of potash

• • • •

. .006

Chloride of sodium

. .079

Sulphate of lime . .

• » • •

. .009

Oxide of iron

• • • •

. .004

Chlorohydric acid

m • • •

. .010

Silica

• • • •

. .095

.288

A litre of this water on evaporation left a residue weighing
0.278 gramme. Surrounding this terrible-looking geyser
are innumerable fumeroles evolving hot gases, which render
the ground treacherously soft and spongy, and woe betide
the unwary wight who neglects to carefully pick his way
along this heated quagmire.

The natives tell us, with apparent glee, how that two
"Inglezes," some time since, outstripping their donkeys
and guides, and arriving for the first time at the spot,
after darkness had set in, found themselves, much to their
consternation, hopelessly bogged in the hot morass, from
which they were only extricated some time later, with
scalded calves and in gruesome plight.

Into many of these vapour-holes the water from the
brook has filtered, forming pools of differing temperatures,
some at boiling heat, others perfectly cold, others again
furiously thirsty, emitting not a drop of water, but volumes
of acid and scorching steam, which impart to most of
these waters their acidulated characteristics ; one especially,

210

possessing in a higli degree tlie same properties, though less
intensified, as the famous " agua azeda " down in the valley.
A single glance around suffices to show that many pits
and fissures, now cold and dry, were once the escape-holes
of similar hot vapours, and the change they now present
is very remarkable.

Mineral waters are generally divided into three classes — ■
sulphureous, chalybeate or ferruginous and saline, acidulous
or carbonated waters. These may again be subdivided into
warm, thermal, and cold. Sir Charles Lyell, referring to
the disturbance which sometimes takes place in their direc-
tion and temperature, says : " Notwithstanding the general
persistency in character of mineral waters and hot springs
ever since they were first known to us, we find on enquiry
that some few of them, even in historical times, have been
subject to great changes. These have happened during
earthquakes which have been violent enough to disturb the
subterranean drainage, and alter the shape of the fissures up
which the waters ascend. Thus, during the great earthquake
at Lisbon, in 1755, the temperature of the spring called La
Source de la Reine, at Bagneres-de-Suchon, in the Pyrenees,
was suddenly raised as much as 75^ Pah., or changed from a
cold spring to one of 122° Fah., a heat which it has since
retained. It is also recorded that the hot springs at
Bagneres-de-Bigorre, in the same mountain chain, became
suddenly cold during a great earthquake, which in 16 GO
threw down several houses in that town." The numerous
sulphur springs in the neighbourhood of Granada all ceased
to. flow on Christmas Day, 1884, at the time the first earth-
quake shocks took place, but upon the following day they
burst out again with loud subterranean explosions, and
discharges of hot vapour, and have since run as before. Here
in the Azores several instances are mentioned, besides those
noted above, of the sources of thermal springs drying up
after a severe shock of earthquake, and of others coming
into existence from the same cause, but these variations

211

have generally occurred in remote times, no recent changes
of the kind having been noticed.

The ride or walk along the eastern margin of the lake
v^ill not fail to reveal, in places, jets of gases escaping from
holes in the lower banks, and innumerable bubbles are
perpetually formed in the waters by large volumes of rising-
gases.

On the western shore, is a very pretty stone-built chapel
in the Gothic style, erected by Snr. Jose do Canto and his
wife, in fulfilment it is said, of a vow made by the latter.
The design was obtained from M. Berton, the well-known
architect, of Paris, and it is dedicated to " Our Lady of
Victories." There is some very good oak carving on the
altar and pulpit, the wood work, stained glass, can-
delabra, and other materials, having been imported from
France. The windows, which are very handsome, represent
the chief events in the life of Mary and Joseph, and were
put up by a French workman, who came here for the
purpose. They flood the edifice with a soft, delicious light.
On the bell is the following inscription : — -'' Salve, Rainha !
mae de miserecordia, vida, do9ura, esperan9a nossa!" The
edifice is highly creditable to those engaged in its construc-
tion, and is unique in its departure from the orthodox and
hideous Jesuit style.

The above-named gentleman is the largest landed pro-
prietor in the neighbourhood, and it is here, on the western
and southern banks of the lake, that he has collected and
acclimatised, at great expense, the surprising arboretum
already mentioned, consisting of foreign and trans-oceanic
forest trees. The grounds at the back of his very pretty chalet
are exceedingly beautiful, the Yalle dos Fetos especially
presenting some magnificent growths of rare tree ferns and
cryptomerias of giant proportions.

At another spot within these lovely woods are to be seen
certain chinks or fissures in the earth like the " moffettas " of
^Switzerland, from whence issue vapours of strong sul]3hur-

T. 2

212

etted hydrogen, acting as a perfect holocaust to the lower
orders of animal creation, if one may judge by the numerous
skeletons of small birds and insects which strew the site.
As these emanations were very destructive to vegetable
life as well, Snr. Jose do Canto, some time since, tried the
experiment of opening up the surface of the ground into
deep furrows and ruts, and has since found that vegetation
is no longer affected by the gases. It is here, in these
charming glades and little frequented avenues, that the
woodcock may still be seen, but he is sadly persecuted by
the cruel sportsman.

A delightful walk or ride across this extensive property,
through long aisles of sombre green, leads to a deep chasm,
known as the " Gruta Cagarra," or " do Echo," where a fine
echo can be heard. The depth must be considerable, for our
guide, Antonio Rebicca, threw a stone weighing some 301bs.
over the brink, and it took 18 seconds to reach the bottom,
making the welkin ring again. In the valley below, a dim
streak marks the course of a running brook.

The views in this neighbourhood are of unsurpassed
beauty, and the number of rides and drives endless. Excur-
sions may also be made to the summit of the Pico do Ferro,
Pico dos Cedros, Pico do Gafanhoto, and others, dominating
the valley and the country beyond.

On the return ride from the Gruta Cagarra, a broad and
now dried-up lacustrine bed, half-a-mile in diameter, is
crossed, covered here and there with patches of wood and
copse ; but the soil is too much mixed with pumice and of
too barren a nature to admit of cultivation.

It is said that the waters of this lake were lapped up by
the fiery eruption of the 2nd September, 1630. Ashes and
lapilli from this outbreak fell in the island of Terceira, and
were thrown out in such quantities that 191 persons, who
had taken refuge in the neighbouring hills around the
Eurnas, were suffocated by the fall.

A narrow ridge of loose volcanic debris, divides this

■<

■A

a
o

214

desiccated bed from the Lake of Furnas, and the site is
interesting- as indicating* where the third eru23tion of im-
portance took place in this eminently volcanic region —
subsequent to its first discovery by the Portuguese.

Fructuoso gives the following account of this great
eruption : — On the 2nd September, 1630, between nine
and ten at night, in calm weather and a clear sky, the earth
commenced suddenly to tremble, and with such continuous
and violent movement that the people fled terrified from
their dwellings.

The shocks caused the clock at Ponta Delgada, in the
tower in the Pra9a do Municipio, to strike so rapidly as to
closely resemble the alarm bell, everyone fearing the tower
would fall.

The shocks continued thus until two o'clock in the
morning, when a furious eruption took place at the site of
the now dried-up lake, destroying nearly the whole of the
extensive woods around, as well as much cattle ; many
people, too, were killed, the number being estimated at 191 ;
these were mostly on the hills tending their flocks and
herds, or collecting the berries of the wild laurel, from
which they extracted the oil for burning in their rude lamjDS,
and which some of the poorer classes still use.

The shock of earthquake was so severe that it destroyed
the churches and the o'reater number of the houses of Ponta
da Gar^a, distant nearly a league, and Povoa^ao, some two
leagues away, eighty persons perishing beneath the ruins
of the first-named place. Villa Franca also suffered greatly.
What terrified the inhabitants, however, more than anything
else, were the vast quantity of ashes which fell all over the
island during three days and nights, in some parts covering
the ground to the extent of from 80 to 96 inches, and in
others from 100 to 240 inches, many small houses being
covered to the roofs. The ashes fell, not only in St. Mary's,
44 miles distant, but in Terceira, 24 leagues off, some people
even afS.rming that they fell in the distant islands of Corvo

215

and Flores, 240 miles to the westward.* The flames which
arose from this eruption were so distinctly seen from Terceira
that they sent boats to St. Michael's, fearing that some
volcano might have destroyed the island.

The funnel of this crater was in the centre of the lake
bed, where it formed a small peak, conical in form, and
consisting entirely of ashes and pumice, the action of rain
and the repeated attempts made to utilise the soil for agricul-
tural purposes, have considerably truncated this baby crater.

Between this Lagoa Secca and the sea on the south rises
the Pico da Vigia, at the foot of which is an immense crater,
covered on its inner sides with unusually large blocks of
pumice stone, which, with a. comparatively small proportion
of scorise, form the component parts of the whole mountain ;
its flanks are consequently gashed into deep ravines through
the action of rains.

The surface of the crater, which is called " a Cova da
Burra," or the asses' grave, is covered with scrub and
underwood. Its formation was anterior to the discovery
of the island, and its great size, and the vast quantities of
explefced matter around, probably mark the site of one of
the earliest and most extensive eruptions that ever took
place in the island.

About half-a-mile along the road leading from the lake
towards the valley is another well of mineral water, known
as the " Sanguinhal Source," where, some forty years ago
existed a small bathing establishment, known as " os banhos
de Sant' Anna," but of which subsequent earthquakes have
not left a single vestige. The chief of these springs,
once protected by a mural enclosure, has now from neglect
broken throuo-li its slender bounds and overflowed the site.
Its waters, which are warm and not ungrateful to the palate,
flow in considerable volume, and are lost in a shallow

* Ashes from the burning city of Chicago are said to have fallen on some of
the Azore islands, and especially Fayal, on the fourth day of the conflagration.

216

stream hard by. Tliree temperature tests were taken by
M. Fouque of the springs nearest the roadway, which
ranged 30 to 32 degrees C. (86 to 89.60 Fah.) ; a fourth,
at a distance only of a few metres, showing 38 degrees C.
(100.40 Fah.). The professor paid special attention to the
principal source of these wells, situated at the end of the
neighbouring ravine, the acidulated waters of which leave a
distinct ferruginous deposit in their course, and are highly
charged with carbonic-acid gas. They present a temperature
of 36 degrees C. (96.80 Fah.), and show the following
analytical results : —

Bicarbonate of soda . .

.412

Bicarbonate of lime

.041

Bicarbonate of iron

.044

Chloride of sodium

.060

Silica

.140

Sulphates

traces

0.697

A litre of this water submitted to evaporation gave a
residue weighing 0.543 gramme.

The expenditure of a small sum of money would supply
these springs with a stone basin, and utilise them for
drinking purposes. They sensibly raise the temperature
of the brook already referred to, which seems to flow over
several other smaller sources having their rise in its very
bed. A pleasant and startling feature along its course are
the masses and fields of inhame, the yam, the Indian kale,
or tanga, of South Carolina, and taro plant of Australasia
[Galadium esculentu7n) , which these waters irrigate, the
broad umbrageous leaves of rich green lending a semi-
tropical aspect to the country. It is difficult to account for
the name " inhame," by which this tuber, the kalo, or taro,
of the Sandwich Islands and New Zealand, is everywhere
known in the Azores.

217

Ivens and Capello mention a cultivated plant in Central
and West Africa which the natives called inhame, it was
notj however, the caladium, but a species of potato, which
they took to be the Discorea alata.

As we know there were many Africans in these islands
during their early days of colonization, the plant probably
received the name '' inhame " from the negroes, who likened it
to the vegetable with which they were familiar in their
native country.

Whether the influence of iron and other mineral j^i'oper-
ties of the waters in which they grow imparts a special
flavour to these tubers, I cannot say, but certain it is that
the Furnas yams are superior to any others grown in the
island, and are in high esteem.

The leaves, when mature, attain a height of 4 or 5 feet,
and grow with beautiful symmetry and luxuriance. At this
stage they are cut down and given as food to pigs, and it is
curious to see the village girls up to their knees in the soft,
yellow marsh, looking like very Naiads, peeping out here and
there from under the leaves, and laughingly piling up huge
bundles of surprising weight, which they will afterwards carry
long distances home. It is common to meet women and young-
girls — oftentimes mere children — not only working in the
fields, but staggering under loads of firewood, which they
have collected on the distant hills — labour which, continued
from early years, is the cause of much infertility among
them, and renders them prematurely old and wan. Never-
theless, these Furnas girls, during the short period of their
girlhood, are justly reputed the handsomest in the island ;
and certainly some of them have perfect Hellenic forms, and
move about as if conscious of the poetry of motion. Of an
evening they may be seen — a pretty but painful sight —
wending their way to the fountains, to fill their pitchers of
old Roman and other classic shapes, which they carry erect
on their heads, without any support whatever. I well
remember when it used to be a favourite pastime with the

218

aurati jiivenes of Ponta Delgada, staying here for the
bathing season, to waylay these girls on their return from the
fountains, and suddenly smashing the earthen vessel with a
well-directed blow from the alpenstock, which everyone here
carries, to drench the unfortunate creatures to the skin.
The voluntary, and, to these poor girls, rich compensation
of a dollar for each broken pitcher and ducking, soon
brought them out in troops to undergo the ordeal, until the
novelty of such tame sport wore off.

The earthenware vessels referred to above are all of
island make, and of coarse manufacture, fictile art in the
Azores having made little advance since the days of the
Romans."^ One of the most characteristic shapes is a jar
with a tubular spout at the side, a relic of the tetinee, or
feeding bottles of the Romans, of which examples have been
found at Wilder spool, in England. Throughout the Penin-
sula these singular-looking water coolers are much in vogue,
and the natives, by dint of constant practice, hold them at
arm's length, and pour a refreshing draught into their
mouths without spilling a single drop on their persons.

Quite a feature in Farnas are the flocks of a very hand-
some species of goat {Capra oegagrus, Pall.), with immense
antelope horns, gracefully curved, which, in early morning,
are driven down from the mountains and go from house to
house to supply visitors with delicious milk. Many of these
have cariously-sounding bells fastened round their necks,
which serve to warn the slumberer that it is time to rise.

The little church in the valley, dedicated to Sant' Anna,
was built in 1792. The altar-piece, poor as it is, was the
gift of Queen Maria I. The church occupies the site where
the hermits founded their convent, which the eruption of
1630 completely destroyed. Yestiges of the hermitage are

* Exception to this must be made in favour of the numerous fancy and
extremely pretty articles, in imitation of terra-cotta, made from imported clay, at
the recently established pottery works of Snr. Manoel Leite Pereira, at Ponta
Delgada, who deserves great credit for his efforts at improvement in this direction.

219

still to be traced, and even the grottoes, or cells, in which
the hermits lived, are pointed out at the back of the church,
and to the west of it. In 1843, whilst some excavations
were being made on the north and west side, some rude
kitchen ntensils belonging to the convent were found, and
no doubt many more exist in the same locality, the building
and all it contained having been suddenly abandoned.

These hermits, three in number, had been chaplains at
the hospital of S. Jose, in Lisbon. On arriving at Fui-nas
they were met by an anchorite, who had been here some
time, and where he, like

Honorius, long did dwell,

And hoped to merit Heaven by making earth a hell.

At first their sufferings were very great, from the
difficulty of obtaining food, and they had barely completed
the erection of their chapel, when it was entirely destroyed
by the eruption of the 3rd September, 1630, which covered
the valley and surrounding hills with from 10 to 12 feet of
ashes. Deserting the desolate spot, these hermits estab-
lished themselves in the valley of Caba9os, near Agua do
Pao, where they passed the remainder of their ascetic but
useless lives.

In various parts of the valley of the Furnas, and at con-
siderable depths, magnificent trunks of cedar trees are
occasionally found, buried by the eruption and earthquakes
of a quarter of a century ago, the timber being in perfect
preservation, but the villagers make short work of such
trouvaille for firewood, and it is difficult, if not impossible,
to obtain an entire specimen.

So great was the abundance of large timber trees on
the neighbouring heights in former times, that, even in
Fructuoso's day, the descents into the valley on the eastern
and northern sides, were made through dense and lofty
woods of cedar, faya, laurels and other forest trees.

Besides these trunks of cedar, specimens of the more
ancient flora of the island are occasionally found in the

220

deeper ravines, consisting chiefly of the niyrica, myrtle, and
Erica arbor ea, of giant proportions, in a state of lignite, but
still preserving their different cliaracteristics.

Scattered about the village are a good many plain-
looking and roughly built, and more roughly furnished
cottages, let out to visitors for the month or six weeks'
" villeggiatura," at rentals ranging from £6 to £5 per mensem,
but as they are destitute of all requisites excepting beds,
and the rudest of deal tables and chairs, all additional com-
forts, &c., must be brought from town. Perhaps the
temporary privation of luxuries and the Arcadian simplicity
of life, adds not a little to the enjoyment of a month's stay
in this beautiful valley.

Several native gentlemen, much to their credit, sub-
scribed together the necessary funds for enclosing and
laying out a large and central piece of land as a public
ornamental garden, and the "Park" now ranks amongst the
attractions of the place. In various parts of its miniature
lake may be observed the constant escape of gases and the
discoloration of the water by some iron spring beneath.

Other Portuguese gentlemen, and foremost amongst them
the Count da Praia e Monforte, Dr. Caetano d'Andrade, the
Baron da Ponte Bella Jacintho, discount das Laranjeiras,
Sehhor Prancisco Machado de Paria e Maia, &c., have done
much to beautify the otherwise waste land they owned here ;
and those fond of quiet may now enjoy many a verdurous
and delicious retreat in any of these gardens. On the hill
sides around may generally be observed the curling smoke
of numerous charcoal fires, lending life and picturesqueness
to the scene, and everywhere is to be heard the murmur and
ripple of silvery runlets, along which huge zangos or dragon-
flies love to course. In their waters grow luxuriant beds of
the native agriao, or watercress, much used here in soups.
There are other streams richly imjDregnated with iron, which
is precipitated and thickly incrusts their beds, transforming
every stone into veritable iron pyrites ; these streams all

221

aggregating, form the Ribeira Qnente or hot river, the
largest in the island. It is a curious fact that, notwith-
standing its high temperature and mineral constituents,
during the spawning season, tainhas, a species of grej
mullet and other fish, ascend the Ribeira Quente as far as
a point called ''Lombo Frio," although a cascade occurs
midway, which they successfully pass. The best flavoured
and largest eels [Anguilla canariensis) in the island, are also
caught in this river, as high up as Furnas.

In the depths of the neighbouring plains are to be found
some immense rounded blocks of erupted granite, like lesser
Tarpeian rocks, which were apparently rolled into their
present position by one of those tremendous volcanic erup-
tions this region has been subjected to.

And dost thou still, thou mass of breathing stone,
Thy giant limbs to night and chaos hurled,
Still sit as on a fragment of a world,
Surviving all ?

These " daughters of Time " generally stand isolated and
alone, otherwise they might be taken for roches perche of
the Glacial period ; the absence, however, of strise, on their
surface, or appearance of moraines in their vicinity, would
seem to assign to them a Plutonic origin, although it is
quite possible that, in a circumscribed area like this, the
frequent and violent changes its sui-face has from time to
time been subjected to, may have entirely effaced and
destroyed these physical characteristics. In Terceira, where
the surface of the country has undergone less mutability,
and notably in the parishes of Doze Ribeiras and Serreta,
there are distinct evidences, both in the valleys and higher
plateaux, of deep striated furrows and grooves, caused by the
moving glaciers.

On the left of the road leading to the caldeiras, or
geysers, is the small Convalescent Hospital, built by means of
funds supplied by the Miserecordia establishment in town,
and capable of accommodating, in its couple of infirmaries,

222

from thirty to forty in-door patients, wlio are sent here for
the baths during the months from June to September.

In 1870, the Camara of Ponta Delgada voted a sufficiently
liberal amount for the purpose of maintaining a resident
physician here during the six summer months, on whom the
daty was imposed of drawing up a report of the effect of
the waters upon each of the various cases brought here for
treatment, and of otherwise studying the hitherto much
neglected science of balneology. These reports, based upon
actual results, and prepared, as many of them are, by careful
and intelligent medical men, are a useful addition to our
knowledge of these undoubtedly valuable si)rings, and their
infinite application. A study of these reports would well
repay the trouble, and the Camara of Ponta Delgada would do
much towards diffusing in Europe and America knowledge
of these waters by periodically publishing them in French
and English, as a guide to their use by invalid visitors.

It would seem that most of the patients frequenting the
hospital suffer from the various forms of rheumatism so
prevalent in this moist climate, and that the warm alkaline
waters, in most cases, prove a perfect panacea in these
particular ailments, which generally begin to yield after the
first half-dozen baths. At this stage, when a radical cure com-
mences to set in, the patient feels an intense aggravation of his
sufferings, thinks himself in extremis, and can with difficulty
be prevailed upon to continue their use to the end. If, how-
ever, persevered in, relief soon comes, and after the thirtieth
bath, the quondam cripple, in the most acute of cases, re-
gains his activity, and leaves his aches and crutches behind.

It is a singular sight to meet these nondescript peri-
patetics, wending their way from the baths completely
enveloped from head to foot in blankets and wraps, as
preventatives against chills, calling to mind the par-boiled
patients who are met with at Monte Catini, issuing from
the '*• inferno " of the grotto of Mosumanno.

The sight at the baths is not less remarkable. There the

223

patients may be seen in groups round the entrance to the
bath-houses specially set apart for their use, some on
crutches, others too feeble to stand, and lying on mats
patiently awaiting their turns, making up a picture vividly
suggestive of the '' pool, where lay a great multitude of
impotent folk, of blind, halt, withered, waiting for the
moving of the water," and eloquent of the health-giving
properties of these springs.

Owing to the poverty and irregular diet of the poorer
villagers, scurfy diseases of the skin are rather prevalent ;
but these soon yield to a short course of the sulphur waters,
which are powerfully efficacious in itch, and even more
troublesome cutaneous disorders.

Shortly after passing the hospital, the ground becomes
more and more uneven and tussocky, until a sudden bend in
the road reveals a gradual depression, broken and contorted
beyond all description. It is here, on the crest, sides and
concavities of a contracted slope, the soil of which is
whitened with efflorescences of sulphur and alum, relieved
by brilliant coruscations, here and there, of orange and red,
that exist in the celebrated Caldeiras das Furnas, the marvel-
lous polypharmacy of nature. On all sides, as we approach,
come the muffled rumble sounds of the angry agency below —
a scene which Carlyle might well have had in his mind's
eye, when he wrote, " Oh, under that hideous coverlet of
vapours and putrefactions, and unimaginable gases, what a
fermenting-vat lies simmering and hid !" Eight in front of
us, enveloped in rapidly- emitted vapour, is the " Caldeira
Grande," a boiling well, seething furiously in a bed of loose
stones of about 8 or 10 feet in diameter, and protected by a
circular wall some 6 feet high. The degree of heat, even at
some distance from it, is considerable, M. Fouque having
registered 98.5°C. (208.40 Fah.) in the narrow trough along
which the water runs ; but he estimates the temperature at the
actual spot where it wells up at the rate of 19 gallons per
minute, at much higher, probably above 100° C. (212° Fah.)

224

— which, however, by the time it reaches the baths, is lessened
to 53° C. (127.40 Tah.) The rush of gases is considerable,
and they probably increase the violence of its agitation, which
makes it impossible to take the temperature at the source.

M. Fouque's tests for the character of these gases gave
the following results : —

Carbonic acid . . . . . . . . 988.90

Sulphydric acid . . . . . . 9.50

xxZO IJe •• .• •• •« •. -L .T^D

Oxygen . . . . . . . . . 0.14

1,000.00

An evaporated litre of this water left a dry residue weighing
1.818 grammes. After the super-oxidation of the sulphate
of soda, the weight of the dry residue was equal to
1.767 grammes, which, when dissolved, gave : —

0.707

Sulphate of soda

0.025

Sulphate of potash . .

0.016

Chloride of sodium . .

0.646

Sulphuret of sodium . .

0.064

Silica . .

0.285

Silicate of soda

0.024

1.767

The same objectionable system, elsewhere noted, of the
channels, or ducts, of these waters to the baths, and their
respective reservoirs, being all exposed to the air, obtains
here ; and unless the waters be quickly used, decomposition
rapidly takes place, and their properties are rendered
nugatory, or greatly lessened. In the case of the Caldeira
Grande, one of the ducts traverses the tunnel leading to the
new bathing establishment, and is covered along this dis-
tance, only that portion of the water not required for
immediate use is collected in a large open tank, where it is

225

allowed to cool, and is drawn off to the baths as wanted, at
a temperature of 28° C. (82.40° Fah.)

Floating on the surface of many of these cooling tanks,
where the water has not been drawn off for some time, may
be seen the thick, glairy film which all still thermal waters
seem to generate.

The next geyser to arrest attention is that known as
d'Asmodee, the latest born of these caldeiras. Its bed is in
the bottom of a circular pit, some 12 feet deep, whence the
water is shot up at rapid and regular intervals, to a height
of 3 feet, falling back again into its basin. A conduit
carries it to the baths of Snr. Jose Maria Eapozo d'Amaral,
a reservoir above allowing a portion of it to gradually cool.

The violence of the agitation at the mouth of this
source, probably also increased by the large quantities of
escaping gases, made it impossible to test the temperature,
but M. Fouque estimates it at probably 100° C. (212° Fah.)
Like the water of the Caldeira Grande, it rapidly loses
the sulphuretted hydrogen it contains, on exposure to the
air, but differs from the former in possessing a much larger
proportion of sulphates, and in its extreme alkaline character.
A litre of this water, when evaporated, left a dry residue
weighing 1.669 grammes. After the super-oxidation of the
sulphate of soda, the weight of the dry residue was equal
to 1.636 grammes, from which the following results were
obtained : —

Carbonate of soda . . . . . . .719

Sulphate of soda

Sulphate of potash

Chloride of sodium

Siilphuret of sodium

Silica

Silicate of soda . .

• • • •

• • • f -Ley

.190

• • • ■ <

.022

• • • • «

.420

* * 1 • •

.060

• • • • ■

.220

* • • • ■

.005

1.636

Resuming our steps cautiousl}^ over the heated and

226

sibilating gTOiind, pocked all over with fumeroles, whicli fill
the air with mephitic vapours, we next come to a deep and
yawning pit, known as the Caldeira de Pedro Botelho, or as
the natives prefer to call it, Boca do Inferno, as it is what
they picture the entrance to the pit Tophet to be, and its
appearance is certainly repelling in the extreme. Very little

BOCA DO INFERNO, OR, CALDEIRA DE TEDRO BOTELHO.

water exists in the Caldeira, but what there is, is shot
upward two or three feet with even, recurrent spurts, and as
in the case of the Caldeira d'Asmodee, falls back again into
its awful abyss. It emits large quantities of gases at each
pulsation, accompanied, too, by loud and measured sounds, as
of blows from a heavy sledge hammer. The water is
intensely acid, and remarkable for the predominance of
sulphates, and for the presence of alum and sulphate of
lime, which M. Pouque thinks are derived from the action

227

of the free sulphuric acid on the rocks enclosing the geyser,
which they decompose ; the sides of the pit being covered
by a fine grey silicious mud, and, as there is a wide belief
amongst the peasantry as to its efficacy for topical use in
cases of stiffened joints and skin diseases, the cuticle
impressions of collectors from distant parts of the island
may be seen upon the soft plastic clay in places it would
appear impossible and most dangerous to reach — so eagerly
is it sought for.

A sample of this mud from which all traces of sulphate
of lime had been eliminated, presented these results on

analysis : —

61.23

Alumina. .

• •

25.41

Peroxide of

iron

0.92

Lime

• •

0.51

Manganese

• •

8.47

Potash . .

• •

1.33

Soda

• •

0.41

98.28

The thermometer, quickly plunged into a bucket of this
muddy water taken from the mouth of the Caldeira,
indicated 98*5° C. (208.10° Pah.), but the temperature is
probably higher.

A litre of evaporated water gave a dry residue weighing
1.003 grammes, which on analysis showed —

Sulphate of soda . . . . . . .651

Sodic alum (supposed anhydrous) . . .087

Sulphate of lime . . . . . .034

Sulphate of iron . . . . . . traces

Silica . . . . . . . . . . .300

Chlorohydric acid . . . . . . .012

Sulphuric acid . . . . . . . . .003

1.087

228

The belief in the curative properties of muddy deposits
of mineral waters is widely shared in by people on the
Continent, and doubtless gave rise to the famous mud and
peat baths of Abano, St. Amand and many of the German
spas. It was no uncommon practice with the better class
in this island, some forty or fifty years ago, to treat certain
pulmonary diseases by burying the patient in fresh earth up
to the chin, for several hours every day. Unfortunately we
have no record of the results of so violent a remedy.
I believe that sand baths are still a feature in some parts
of the Continent. As may be supposed with this super-
stitious peasantry — very Ossians in their powders of invention
— such localities as these are the " haunts of light-headed
fable," or happy hunting grounds of elves and gnomes,
and many are the dire accounts told of mysterious dis-
appearances and occurrences attributed to the agency of the
Evil One and his minions inhabiting the Boca do Inferno.
One of their pretty legends is, that this caldeira had been
purposely placed across the path of travellers by the Author
of all Evil, as a trap to destroy them; that once upon a time
a holy hermit named Pedro Botelho, overtaken at night by a
storm of wind and rain, which obscured his way, tumbled
headlong into its fiery gulph, but that the raging waters,
recoiling at touch of so saintly a man, gathered force for
one great effort, and hurled him back again, safe and
sound !

Bryson tells us that turf, when brought into contact with
the gases of geysers, causes violent disturbance, owing
to the irritant organic elements it contains, and the natives
here have certainly discovered this law, for to summon the
fiends of the Pedro Botelho Caldeira, they crowd its mouth
with tufts of grass, when the pulsations are loudly in-
tensified, and even flames have been said to appear, but
this I never saw, nor believe.

This caldeira is an unfailing barometer to the Furnenses,
indicating with accuracy the atmospheric changes that

229

occur. When rain or wind threatens, the noise it emits
rises from the soft beating of the waves to the thunder of
the storm : but when the weather clears and sunshine
returns, the sounds emitted relapse to the soft murmur
of the ripple on a sandy shore, at regular and never-
ceasing intervals. Not only is this caldeira affected by the
weather, but the w^aters of all the others are said to boil
with greater violence when the wind is strong from the
south-east, east, or north-east. One of my companions,
after a great deal of difficulty, succeeded in " catching " the
sound of this geyser in a microphone he brought for that
purpose. Imperfect as the experiment was, the noise
sounded like the " Crack of Doom," and so frightened one of
our donkey-men, whose curiosity we indulged with a
hearing, that without uttering a word he fled terrified from
the scene, and nearly succeeded by his wild description of the
awful sounds he had heard, and the ten thousand demonios
he felt sure were after him, in creating a stampede amongst
the villagers.

The explosions which accompanied the formation of the
formidable Pedro Botelho and Asmodee Caldeiras were
very alarming, and the feeling of insecurity which the
throbbing earth inspires is calculated to suggest that, as we
stand over this fizzing and hissing spot, it might be our fate
to be hoist on such a natural petard, or else swallowed up
by a subsidence of the apparently thin crust separating
us from the fiery cauldron below ; but the fear is a purely
imaginary one, the numerous safety valves around guaran-
teeing us against anything so tragic. The slightest upturning
of the soil reveals layers of sulphur crystals in acicular and
other beautiful forms, which crumble at the touch, and
crowding each other and rising indiscriminately all about,
are hot and cold springs of greater and lesser volume, some-
times alternating with jets and whisks of hissing gases and
mud puffs, honey-combing the ground. Each spring, how-
ever, preserves its own individuality, and all flow to swell

230

the Ribeira Quente — a perfect ocean of mineral wealth
completely lost. Picking our way along, for there are many
miniature Bocas do Inferno hereabouts, and past the side of
a small circular caldeira, whose edges are carefully banked
up by the natives, for in it they prepare the vime or osier
twigs with which they make the delicate and graceful bas-
kets the valley is famous for, we regain the path, and a
little beyond are the dilapidated misturas baths, so called
from the mixture of sulphur and iron waters. We next
reach the perennial Agua Azeda, a fountain flowing from a
rude spout fixed in the side of a low hill. This water is of
the ferro-saline type, delicious to the taste, and tonic in
its effects. This most valuable spring was for a long-
time regarded by the natives as a sort of " aqua tofana," of
which it was death to drink; but they now know better,
and it has become a custom with most bathers to take
a tumbler of this water after their ablutions, and the appe-
tite it invariably engenders augurs well for its beneficial
effects. The quantity of iron it contains is so considerable, as
to stain its channel a deep ochre, although nothing could
be clearer, or more sparkling than when first drawn. It is
highly charged with carbonic acid gas, which clings thickly
to the sides of a glass, as in the case of " Apollinaris " ; its
solvent properties upon urinary calculi are said to be
considerable.

After a thunderstorm, the quantity of gas is so increased
as to fairly realise the idea of a " windy suspiration of forced
breath," when a tumbler-full is tossed off. Undoubtedly
the best time to take this pleasant dietetic water is at or
before meals, when its beneficial effects are more readily
felt.

Its temperature is 16° C. (60.80° Fah.), and it flows at the
rate of 11 1- gallons per minute. A litre submitted to
ebullition lost 930 cubic centimetres of gas, composed
of—

231

Carbonic acid

Azote

Oxygen

equal to —

Carbonic acid
Azote
Oxygen . .

890

930

95.7
3.7
0.6

100.0

A litre of tbis water evaporated left a residue weigbing
0.334 gramme, wbicb gave —

Bicarbonate of soda

Bicarbonate of lime

.010

Bicarbonate of iron

.008

Sulpbate of soda

.040

Sulpbate of potasb

.004

Cbloride of sodium

.067

Silica

.091

0.390

Tbe sulpburous acid and sulpburetted liydrogen exbaled
from tbese numerous solfataras mutually decompose eacli
otber, and cause tbe sulpbur tbey contain to be precipitated
around tbe orifices. Tbe ground in many places, tberefore,
is one mass of beautiful sulpbur crystals, and tbe rapidity
witb wbicb tbe substance appears to be deposited would
promise to repay tbe trouble and expense necessary for
collecting and distilling it, tbe abundance of wood in tbe
neigbbourbood facilitating tbe operation. Every year flower
of sulpbur, in considerable quantities, is imported from
England for application to tbe vines and otber purposes ;
but as a sligbt risk attends tbe setting up of tbe simple
apparatus requisite, no Portuguese can be found willing to
incur tbe first risk. If, bowever, some bolder spirit proved

232

the speculation a remunerative one, all possessing the
necessary funds would flock to set up distilleries. Mean-
while, for ages past, a promising industry has remained
altogether neglected.

With regard to the cause and origin of thermal springs
and the formation of sulphur deposits, Mr. Charles, W-
Vincent, F.C.S., in a paper read before the Society of Arts,
in January, 1873, " On the sulphur deposits of Krisuvik,
Iceland,*' gives some interesting and valuable information,
portions of which I here reproduce, as they are quite appli-
cable to the solfataras of St. Michael, and explain much of
the mystery connected with this curious phenomenon. " It
is somewhat to be regretted," says Mr. Vincent, '^ that no
one amongst the numerous eminent men — men accustomed to
experimental investigations and acute observers — who have
since traversed this region, should have investigated the
question of the origin of these hot springs and sulphur
deposits from the point of view which was thus displayed
by these careful and painstaking philosophers. The conclu-
sion they drew from their investigations is, that the hidden
fires of Iceland dwell in the crust of the earth, and not in
its interior ; that the boiling springs and the mud cauldrons
certainly do not derive their heat from the depths of our
globe, but that the fire which nourishes them is to be found
frequently at only a few feet below the surface, in ferment-
ing matters, which are deposited in certain strata. By their
theory the gases from the more central parts of the earth
penetrate these beds by subterranean channels, and so set
up the chemical action, producing* fermentation and heat,
these channels also forming the means of inter-communica-
tion between the separate sites of activity, and equalising
and transferring pressure. To return to their facts : They
further observed that the heat is invariably found to be
greater in the blue and blueish-grey earth ; that these earths
almost always contain sulphuric acid ; that they contain
also sulphur, iron, alum, and gypsum ; and lastly, that

233

finely-divided particles of brass-coloured pyrites are visible
thronghout the whole of the beds when heat exists. Lastly,
not only does the heat increase and diminish in various
successive layers of the earth, in the neighbourhood of the
active springs, but the locality of the heat, as might be
expected from their previous observations, travels very
considerably in different years. At present it appears to be
doubtful whether the sulphur results from the decomposition
of metallic sulphides, by heat and water combined, or by
sulphuric acid formed by the oxidation of sulphurous acid.
In the one case, the whole action is so far within our reach,
that it should not be an insurmountable difficulty to establish
the point as to whether the whole action does not depend on
the percolation of water into beds of pyrites surrounded by
other beds which are non-conductors of heat. The other
view, viz., that the sulphur proceeds as sulphurous acid from
a lower depth, is, on account of the more complicated action
required, far from being as satisfactory to my mind as the
more simple supposition above. It is also an element in the
question of much importance to discover whether the beds
penetrated by the water are already heated, whether the
water is heated before it reaches the sulphur-bearing strata
(the clays containing pyrites), or whether both are not alike
cold till they have been for some time in contact."

Sir Henry Holland, who also visited the Solfataras
of Krisuvik, adds the following: — " The theory of these
sulphureous springs (if springs they may be termed) at
Krisuvik is an interesting object of inquiry. They are
situated in a country decidedly of volcanic origin. The
high ground on which they appear is composed principally
of the conglomerate or volcanic tufa, which has before been
noted. The source of the heat which can generate
permanently so enormous a quantity of steam must, doubt-
less, reside below this rock ; whether it be the same which
produces the volcanic phenomena may be doubted, at least
if the Wernerian theorv of volcanoes be admitted. It

234

certainly seems most probable that the appearances depend
upon the action of water on vast beds of pyrites. The heat
produced by this action is sufficient to raise an additional
quantity of water in the form of steam, which makes its way
to the surface, and is there emitted through the different
clefts in the rocks. The sulphates of lime and alumina,
appearing' upon the surface, are doubtless produced in
process of time by these operations. In corroboration of this
view it may be observed that the quantity of steam issuing
from the springs at Krisuvik is always greater after a long
continuance of wet weather, and that whenever earthquakes
occur on this spot it is during the prevalence of weather of
this kind."

Another and very reasonable theory for the occurrence
of these springs is the fact of heated columns of steam rising
from great depths, when passing through cold, spongy and
mineralised strata, becoming condensed before reaching
the surface, issuing with varying degrees of temperature
and impregnated according to the mineral properties of the
beds they pass through.

'No sylvan scenes are to be met with in the immediate
vicinity of the caldeiras, for the noxious vapours have
killed all vegetation near at hand, some stunted yams only
making a desperate effort for existence. These fetid-like
gaseous emanations, rising from solfataras in general,
though unbearable to the majority of people, and fatal to
the vegetable world, are, nevertheless, on the authority of
competent observers, found to be positively beneficial to
those habituated to them, and the glow of health con-
spicuous in the people of this valley would seem to bear out
this opinion. To those accustomed to these caldeiras from
childhood, these exhalations are not only tolerant, but
positively enjoyable, and the lower animals, especially cattle
and horses, often seek their neighbourhood to escape from the
torment of flies, for no insect can live within their influence.

In the midst of the Caldeiras are several earthy mounds,

235

formed by regular and divers-coloured layers, from 1 to
2 inches thick, singularly decomposed, acted upon, as they
have been for ages, by caloric and the various evolving
gases, in the cooler portions of which there have been
formed thin deposits and sheets of hard siliceous sinter of
beautiful opalescent colours. Between these layers, leaves
of ferns and small plants growing on the mounds are found
encrustated with a preserving coat of silica. These are the
nearest approach to fossilif erous substances I have ever met
with in the island. When hardened by age, these layers
appear to consist of a white sufPaceous clay, in which the
leaf impressions show very perfectly and appear of immense
age.

An alkaline fountain, the medicinal virtues of which the
peasants have long held in such high esteem as to bestow
upon it the name of " Agua Santa," or. Holy Water, rises
to the right of the pathway leading from the Misturas
baths. Its volume is computed at the rate of 1 gallon per
hour. The water is strongly opalescent, and possesses a
temperature of 88° C. (190.40° Fah.) It is unique in containing
a larger proportion of silicate of soda than any of the other
waters, and in being almost destitute of gaseous elements.

The peasants have great faith in the efficacy of this
water in ophthalmic complaints, and it is regrettable that
no records of its effects are available. M. Fouque's analysis
of the water gave the following : —

Carbonate of soda . . . . . . .120

Sulphate of soda . , . . . . .036

Sulphate of potash . . . traces

Chloride of sodium . . . . . . .180

Silica . . . . . . . . . . .134

Silicate of soda .. .. .. .. .212

Bicarbonate of lime . . . . . . traces

Sulphuret of sodium . . - . . . .024

0.706

236

Another acidulated water, which usage has prescribed
as beneficial to drink when bathing, is that known as the
Padre Jose spring, close to the pathway leading to Snr.
Amaral's baths; its temperature, however, of 51^ C.
(123.80^ Fah.) scarcely renders it as pleasant as the Agua
Azeda, but it is richly mineralized, and a close study of its
efPects would doubtless reveal valuable results from its
systematic use. It flows in considerable volume, estimated
at Is gallons per minute.

The imbibition of mineral waters by the Portuguese
generally follows the bathing, instead of preceding it as at
all the most frequented watering places in Europe, and no
regular professional advice and system is followed in
their use.

A litre of this Padre Jose water, submitted to ebullition,
lost 102 centimetres of gas, made up as follows : —

Carbonic acid
Azote
Oxygen . .

and a detailed analysis gave —

Bicarbonate of soda
Bicarbonate of lime
Bicarbonate of iron
Sulphate of soda
Chloride of sodium
Silica
Sulphydric acid . .

86.3

12.0

1.7

100.0

• • • •

.214

; . .031

• * • •

.020

• • • •

.114

• • • •

.113

• • • *

.201

traces

0.693

At the foot of the geyser hill flows the yellow Eibeira
Quente stream, just such a river as poets have vainly paved
with sands of gold, collecting all the waste waters of these

287

caldeiras, and conspicuous for miles around by the bright
colours of its water.

Any individual may erect a bath-house here, conditionally

upon his also providing- one for the public use, and, until

recent years, it was mainly due to private enterprise of the

sort that any accommodation at all existed. Such baths are

still known by the names of the persons who long since

erected them ; thus we have, " os Banhos do Barao das

Laranjeiras, Visconde da Praia," " Morgado Gril, Snr. J. M.

Rapozo d'Amaral and others. As, however, these half-dozen

buildings were altogether inadequate for the number of

visitors and hospital patients frequenting the valley, the

Lisbon Government, urged by the then Civil Governor,

Felix Borges de Medeiros, very wisely determined upon

erecting a suitable range of buildings on a scale worthy of

such a magnificent collection of sanative waters. They

accordingly instructed their engineer, the late Snr. Ricardo

Ferraz, to draw up the plans for the very creditable

establishments now existing here, and which would by no

means disgrace any of the Continental watering-places.

The site occupied is close to the old Quenturas baths, and

the ridge separating them from the caldeiras having been

pierced by a tunnel, access is now made easy from that side,

as well as from the village, by a handsome carriage drive

running parallel with the Ribeira Quente river.

The original plan of the building is for 30 baths and
dressing rooms, but only about one half of these are as yet
fitted up. These new baths are a great advance upon the
old ones, a handsome smooth yellow limestone bath, cut
out of a solid block and having all the appearance of marble,
replacing the old gigantic stone troughs to which bathers
were condemned of old.

The waters supplying the establishment are limited to
two kinds, the sulphur, and the iron ; the former, drawn
from the Caldeira Grande, and the latter from the Quenturas
source close by ; the respective waters being always " on

238

tap " in the baths, so that a bather, at a moment's notice,
can be accommodated with either.

The apartments are well proportioned and neatly fitted
up, each bathroom hanng its dressing room attached. The
attendants are civil and obliging, and to these a small
gratuity is given upon completing the course, as no charge
whatever is made for the use of the baths.

The iron waters are naturally tonic in their effects, but
less pleasant than the sulphur, than which nothing can be
more delightful, and if taken moderately warm, at a tem-
perature between 90 and 95 Fah., are invigorating and bracing.
This sulphur water is indescribably soft and unctious, highly
detersive — whitening the skin to an extraordinary degree —
and it may well be said that in using it "on devient
amour eux de soi-meme."

To properly enjoy this water, however, the example of a
few of the old habitues should be followed, and baths taken
in the older and less pretentious buildings nearer the source,
and where consequently the water has not undergone such
exposure to the atmosphere. In these old dingy troughs it
is certainly stronger and more pedetic, than when it reaches
Snr. Amaral's, or the new baignoire. The soft feel of this
sulphur water is probably due to the very large quantity
of silica it contains, dissolved by the action of the
sulphuric gases. A short distance to the west of the new
baths stand the old Quenturas baths, formerly much
frequented by patients from the hospital, but now altogether
abandoned. Near to them are numerous acidulated iron
springs of greater or less degrees of heat, precipitating
their chief mineral constituents and oxidising their channels
a bright yellow, and the largest of these wells up at a rate
of 38 gallons per minute at a temperature of 48*^ C.
(118.40° Fah.), and is drawn off into reservoirs for use as
required. Some of these appear to have been constructed
over small gaseous sources, which constantly bubble to the
surface in large quantities, thus tending to preserve the mass

239

fresh and sweet. The water from the main source is also
much charged with carbonic acid gas, and indeed is only
second to the Agua Azeda in this respect. A litre of
this water, submitted to ebullition, lost 200 cubic centimetres
of giis, composed of —

Carbonic acid . . . . . . . . 192.5

Azote . . . . . . . . . . 6.0

Oxygen . . . . 1.5

200.0

An evaporated litre left a dry residue, weighing 1.014
grammes, which, on analysis, showed —

Bicarbonate of soda . . . . . . .956

Bicarbonate of lime

.008

Bicarbonate of iron

.008

Sulphate of soda

.026

Silica

.192

Chloride of sodium

.111

1.801

Nearer the village are some other springs and baths,
known as " Os banhos do Laureano," or " Banhos d'Agua
Ferrea," still much frequented by native visitors. The chaly-
beate which supplies them, like that of Quenturas, is in
strong contrast to the sulphur waters, being hard and rough
to the feel, and contracting the pores of the skin ; they are,
however, stimulating, and have long been celebrated for
their efficacy in cases of sterility.

These waters are very like those of Quenturas in
their constituents, but, unfortunately, were not analysed
by M. Fouque.

With unrivalled facilities at hand for the easy establish-
ment of vapour baths and inhalation rooms of almost every
temperature, it seems a pity that the wealth of sulphuretted
hydrogen and carbonic gas, so useful in various stages of

240

bronchial and rheumatic affections, should be entirely lost.
Much, too, remains to be done with the neglected but
stimulating douche, and the constant flow of sulphur and
iron waters invites the erection of the delicious piscinas or
swimming baths, so common on the Continent.

At Perpignan, Panticosa, Sicily, Ischia, the Lipari Islands,
many of the German spas, and Switzerland, " vaporaria " and
'' salles d'aspiration " ha^e for many years formed an
important part in the water-cure system, and in many
instances with marked beneficial effects.

To use these Furnas waters only empirically, as is done
at present, is to slight the great gift which nature has
bestowed on mankind here.

In erecting the new baths, and sending a medical man
for a few months every year to chemically investigate the
properties of the wells, the government have certainly taken
a step in the right direction ; but the importance of the
question would seem to call for a wider and more systematic
study of the sanative qualities of these wonderful springs.

Nearly ninety years ago, Beckf ord recorded Dr. Ehrhart's
indignant outburst at the manner in which patients were
allowed the indiscriminate use of the Caldas da Rainha
waters, and as the salutary caution implied is equally
applicable at the present time, I transcribe what the irate
physician laid down in forcible but amusing language : " I
found many of them (the patients) with galloping pulses
excited almost to frenzy by the injudicious application of
these powerful waters, and others with scarcely any pulses
at all. The last will be quiet enough ere long ; and con-
sidering what dreadful work these determined Galenists
drive amongst them, with their decoctions and juleps,
spiced boluses, and conserve of mummy, and the devil knows
what, I expect a general gaol-delivery must speedily take
place, and the souls of these victims of exploded quackeries
be soon released from their wretched bodies, rendered the
worst of prisons by a set of confounded bunglers."

241

Although visitors to the Furnas may in these days escape
the infliction of " spiced boluses and conserve of mummy,"
it would nevertheless be well if those suffering from chronic
affections or tendency to congestion were to consult the
native medical man for the time stationed here, before com-
mitting themselves to a regular course of any of the waters,
and more especially the powerful sulphur ones.

Time was, and that not very long since, when phle-
botomy, like the handkerchief round the negro's head,
was regarded in this island as a panacea for maladies
(typhoid and other fevers included), but " on a change tout
cela," and patients may now with perfect safety place them-
selves in the hands of such native medical men as
Drs. Hintz Eibeiro (brother of the talented Minister of the
Interior), Rosa, the medical officer in attendance at the
Miserecordia Hospital, and several others, who have been
trained in fche modern schools of medicine and surgery
of Lisbon and Coimbra. Indeed, I have known of some
very difficult surgical operations performed with perfect
skill and success by Dr. Eosa upon some of my countrymen
and countrywomen, whose gratitude to him is expressed in
no stinted terms. Before dismissing the subject of the
Furnas geysers, with their wild chaotic surroundings,
I cannot refrain from strongly urging upon those of my
readers who have not as yet witnessed these remarkable
phenomena to spare no effort to do so, for their sight is
a perfect revelation.

The earliest account received in England of these
hot springs is that of Thomas Turner, as related by
Purchas (4 vol., 1625). He says, "In Saint Michael, one of
the A9ores, they ascend vp in a forenoones journey vnto a
hill into a chappell, wherein they need a fire in summer for
the cold: there being, a little off, three springs, the one
whereof casteth vp waters in a continual boyling with a
terrible noise, and of great heate, the second of heate
intolerable, which in short time scaldeth any living thing

242

to death, the ground also hote to stand on : but the waLer
calme. The third is warme, and a fit bathe."

The founders of the village of Furnas seem to have been
the two anchorites already referred to, who, crossing over
from Portugal, and abandoning all things worldly, here took
up their abode in the early part of the seventeenth century.
The wilderness they had chosen, and the austerities they
practised, recommended these holy men to the notice of the
then donatario, the Count da Camara, who had a chapel
and monastery erected for them. It was not until many
years after they were driven from the valley by the occur-
rences of 1630, that shepherds gradually resorted here with
their flocks, and that regular habitations were established.
These were followed by the Jesuits, who afterwards possessed
considerable demesnes in the valley, on which they appear
to have systematically kept large apiaries, for part of their
annual revenues consisted regularly of a pipe of honey — an
eloquent testimony of the abundance of wild and cultivated
flowers, yielding their sweetness in this favored spot.

The place is still famous for the beautiful clear honey-
comb to be had in the season from some of the cottagers,
but for want of proper attention the industry has fallen off.

The village has a population of some six or seven hundred
souls, mostly wretchedly poor, who occupy themselves chiefly
in cultivating the small plots of land which some of them
possess ; but the soil is weak, and makes them poor returns.
They, however, raise milho, kidney beans, flax, and, in the
more marshy places, large quantities of yams.

A small, snow-white cheese is made here from goats'
milk, which, when quite fresh, is extremely palatable.

One of the most delightful spots at the Furnas is the
Tank, now the property of the Count da Praia e Monforte, a
nobleman enjoying a rent roll equal to one of the wealthiest
of our English earldoms, and who has recently rebuilt and
greatly improved the residence.

As far back as 1770, Mr. Hickling, a former United

248

States consul, had tastefully laid out the grounds — suscep-
tible, from their natural situation, of being made into the
perfect Eden they now are — and imported a large number of
ornamental trees from the States and Europe. Upon his
death, the property passed to the late Viscount da Praia,
the father of the present owner. This benevolent gentle-
man, who was known in the island as the " Pai dos
Pobres," also possessed remarkable taste, and to him is
chiefly due the credit of bringing the gardens to their
present condition, and of introducing the numerous and
rare trees they contain. It was here that William Hickling
Prescott, the American historian, and Consul Hickling's
grandson, spent a part of the yea.r 1816, and from the old
house wrote to his sister : — " In this delightful spot I have
enjoyed some of the happiest hours that I have spent since
I quitted my native shores." In such a retreat as this, a
man may well throw off the acerbities of a, perhaps, over-
wrought mind, and find peace and health, induced by the
surrounding beauties and pure atmosphere he breathes.

A-t the foot of the Alegria heights, on the western side
of the valle}", exists a circular hollow, about ten feet deep,
filled to within a few inches of the surface with beautifully
clear water, which never increases or lessens in volume,
welling up continually from a sandy bottom, with such
force, and apparently accompanied by so much gas, as to
cause the pool to eject a heavy alpenstock thrown vertically
into it. Similar hollows, always perfectly circular and
funnel-shaped, were formed in the plain of Rosarno, in
Calabria, by the earthquake of 1783, and no doubt this, the
only one which I have been able to hear of in the island,
was caused by a similar occurrence. These remarkable
wells have been known to dry up as suddenly as they have
appeared, and, the pits being filled up, their sites are no
lonofer discernible.

Following the gilded course of the Ribeira Quente river
on its way to the sea, where it debouches at the little fishing

R 2

244

village of the same name, we come, about a mile from the
geysers, to the Caldeira do Esgite, or "dos Tambores," on
the very brink of the stream, actively emitting considerable
quantities of vapour, accompanied by loud hissing and rum-
bling sounds, like the rapid beating of numerous drums,
from which it derives its name. The spot itself is difficult
of access, but as looked down upon from the old high road
(to Povoa9aoj opposite, is picturesque to a degree, the barren
spots near the geysers contrasting with the prodigal verdure
beyond them. From these heights the direction of the
little river, with its crisping wavelets, may be traced for
miles, its banks here and there fringed and overshadowed
by the graceful salix.

Nothing can exceed the exquisite beauty of the scenery
along the new road to Povoacao,a small town some eight
or nine miles distant, situated on the south-east coast of the
island, for the whole way runs over hills from 1,000 to 2,000
feet high, all clad in pine, chesnut, and other timber trees,
and past sheer precipices revealing richly cultivated valleys
below. Every now and then a break suddenly opens up the
view of the distant sea with its specks of fishing boats, each
successive step presenting some scene of which the eye
never wearies.

Povoa9ao itself is interesting as the first spot the early
colonists trod upon, and where they erected the first rude
chapel built in the island. The site is now occupied by the
ancient Ermida of Santa Barbara, which suffered so much
during the earthquake of 1882. The place, as viewed from
afar, presents a snug and riant appearance ; its broad, rich
valley, shut in on all sides, except the south, by high moun-
tains, and its three or four long lines of cottages or "lombos,"
running up from the coast and intersecting the plain. In
its upper end, and charmingly situated in the midst of
well-cultivated lands, stand the imposing-looking country
residences of the Camara and Machado families, and still
higher up — a dot of white among the clouds— the little

245

eyry-like inirante or look-out of the Baron Jacintho, from
whicli a superb view can be enjoyed :

To us it seemed some happy haunt
Of freedom and content —
A little world, shut out from care,
And all disquietment.

Here some good quail shooting can be had, and
occasionally a red-legged partridge may be flushed, but these
are fast disappearing. Game birds in these islands are
extremely shy, owing as much to the perpetual warfare
carried on against them by native sportsmen — many of them
unerring shots — as to the perhaps still more destructive
ravages of that bird of rapine, the hawk {Falco huteo), which
can be everywhere seen high in the air, or preening his
wings on some forest tree, watching for his victim either in
field or poultry yard : —

Around, around, in airy rings

They wheel with oarage of their wings.

These destructive birds have been known to fly in at the
open window of a room in which two men were seated, in
chase of a hen which had entered there.

Although so fierce and rapacious, this powerful buzzard
possesses a troublesome and implacable foe in the little
arvelinha or arveloa, identical with the wagtail [Motacilla
alba) ; it generally hunts in bands of six to a dozen,
mobbing the hawk when flying, and with passionate sibila-
tions fastening itself firmly underneath his wings. Mr.
Bates, in his charming work on the " Amazon," mentions a
similar characteristic on the part of the diminutive Bem-
te-vi, assailing the black eagle, Caracara-i, and Mr. Wallace,
in his " Malay Archipelago," notices similar onslaughts on
hawks and crows by an equally small bird found in the
Moluccas, the Tropidorhynchus suhcornutus. Several very
pretty cascades are to be seen at Povoa9ao, amongst others
the " Grota do Intrudo," and in the hills behind, specially

246

the •' Mata dos Silvados," 2,000 feet above the sea, are
several others of lesser volume, but equally beautiful. It is
here, in these almost inaccessible and perpetually moist
ravines, that the beautiful Woodwardia radicans, DicJcsonia
culcita, Pteris arguta, and Capillus veneris (or maiden-hair)
ferns, can be seen to perfection, completely covering the
steep declivities in canopies of green.

The people of Povoa9ao, owing to the larger proportion
of Moorish blood coursing through their veins, are rather a
fine race of sv^arthy-looking men, and generally better to
do than in many other parts of the island, the soil being
richer, and enabling them to raise heavy crops. They have
also extensive pastures which maintain large herds of cattle.
Their love of order and justice is proverbial, " long rope and
short shrift " being their verdict in criminal cases. As
exemplifying their impulsive character, Cordeiro relates a
story of a man, who, shortly after the foundation of the
colony in 1444, ran ofiP with his neighbour's wife ; caught
and brought before the Moorish judge, the latter, on hearing
the case, at once exclaimed, '' JForcarte, f orcarte, e depois
tirarte inquiricione " ("Hang him, hang him, and then try
him.")

Povoa9ao is a good point d^ippui for excursions to various
parts of this wild and little frequented side of the island.
A very fair road leads through the valley of Povoa9ao to the
Pico do Passo, 3,040 feet above sea level, and on to the Pico
da Vara, 530 feet higher still, and the loftiest point in
St. Michael's, the views from which are unsurpassed.

During the severe winters, Pico da Vara surprises the
islanders by showing its cusp covered with snow, which,
however, rarely outlives the day.

Povoa9ao is also within easy distance of Payal da Terra ;
thence past Pico de Nunez, 2,220 feet high, to Agua Retorta,
and the bold basaltic headland of Lombo Gordo, 1,347 feet
high, where magnificent cliff scenery can be enjoyed. This
grand and elevated coast line may be followed round to

247

Nordeste and Maya. The land around Nordeste was
formerly very fertile, and immense crops of wheat were
raised — so much so, that the inhabitants obtained the
privilege at their earnest request of supplying provisions to
the naus arriving from the East Indies, for which they
declined to receive any remuneration whatever. King
Manoel, in consequence, raised the place in 1514 to the
dignity of villa or town ; but its prosperity was of short
duration, for the second earthquake of 1563 buried its
rich soil under thick layers of pumice set free from some
neighbouring heights, and from which they cannot be
reclaimed. Owing to lesser contact with strangers, the
inhabitants of these places are unsophisticated and shy, but
invariably respectful and obliging.

At Ponta do Arnel, on the north-east extremity of this
coast, a dioptric beacon has been placed, 37° 49' 20" north,
and 25° 8' 30" west of Greenwich ; the light is white and
fixed, flashing every two minutes, and will illuminate two-
thirds of the horizon (240°). In fine weather, the fixed light
can be seen eighteen miles off, and the flashes twenty-
five miles.

The focus of light is 67m. 5 above sea level at mean tide.

Back at the Furnas, shorter but equally enjoyable trips
may be made to Pico da Yigia, which frowns upon Ribeira
Quente, to the heights of Alegria, the Cascada da Briosa, the
Cascada das Camarinhas, and other places.

At Jeronymo's Hotel, a large and spacious apartment is
devoted to music and dancing, where of an evening visitors
as well as members of the club, as it is called, congregate
and enjoy these innocent amusements.

Adeos Furnas, vou deixar-te,
E' lei do fado cruel ;
Para sempre abandonar-te,
Meu amor de S. Miguel.

Chapter XIII.

By Lacustrine Shores— Mossy Dells and "Wooded Hills — Rakish Craft —
Descents of the Algerine Moors — Villa Franca — Ancient Pottery by
Modern Hands — Fayal, why so called — Prisons — Grated Aids to Con-
versation — Orange Groves and Exports — The " Ilheo " — Cray Fish, Crabs
and Starlings — Remarkable Naval Engagement — Curious Stratagem of
the Terceirenses — The Trade with the " Indies " — Singular List of
Merchandise — Sir Richard Grenville, Devereux, Earl of Essex, and
Sir Walter Raleigh — The Travels of Goes— His Wonderful Adventures
— Reception by the Emperor Akbar — His Death — The Preservation of

HIS Manuscript.

Sink me the ship, Master Gunner — sink her, split her in twain I
Fall into the hands of God, not into the hands of Spain !

Tennyson.

The new soutliern road from Furnas to Ponta Delgada runs
along tlie shores of tlie lake and Snr. Jose do Canto's wood,
and is a perfect triumph of engineering skill. It entirely
avoids the old route past Ponta Gar9a and the coast, but
hugging the mountains — always at a great altitude — follows
a zig-zag course, passing in places along the very brink of
precipices, 1,000 feet deep, and through steep and narrow
gorges, cut through the immense masses of pumice, and
descends at a gradual but perceptible incline, all the way to
Villa Franca, not a single village or hamlet being passed
the entire distance (some nine or ten miles) of this first
stage of the journey.

No words can adequately describe the grand and ever-
changing scenery met with at every step along this road,
green on either side with thick beds of moss and graceful
over-hanging ferns, and past a country, from ravine to
hill-top, thickly clad with beautiful timber trees and lush
vegetation. Certainly, this southern route, along which a

249

carriage may be driven from beginning to end, is undeniably
the most varied and interesting of the two approaches to
Furnas, for, besides the inland beauties it reveals, the long
stretches of exquisite coast views it presents are unrivalled
in any part of the world. An alternative choice of reaching
the valley from the city is by sea, as far as Ribeira Quente,
in one of the fast-sailing lateen-rigged boats for which this
village has always been famous. These rakish-looking craft
are generally employed in carrying charcoal and firewood to
Ponta Delgada, bringing back supplies for the small villages
around. Given a fair land-breeze, the trip may be accom-
plished in three or four hours, and the fatigue and heat of
the land journey are greatly lessened by this sea route.
Against it are the chances of being becalmed, the necessity,
as a rule, of starting at midnight, and the loss of the inland
scenery. This last objection may, however, be obviated by
landing at Yilla Franca, where either carriages or donkeys
may be had to complete the journey.

Eibeira Quente is within two hours ride on donkey back
of the Furnas ; but the landing-place, owing to the surf
which beats against this part of the coast, is difficult of access;
even in perfectly calm weather, passengers have to land on
the boat-men's backs, luggage and other impedimenta being
carried on shore in like manner, before the craft can be
placed high and dry. Owing to the absence of protecting
cliffs, the little village of Ribeira Quente is almost every year
threatened with destruction from the inroads of the sea,
which, in 1880, carried away a dozen cottages, and seems to
be ever gaining on the beach . This, however, must not be
construed as sustaining the theory of these islands subsiding ;
on the contrary, although the progress of elevation is so
gradual as to be scarcely perceptible, there are yet signs
that it is continual. In Madeira too, the intervening beach
between the Banger column at Funchal, created since its
erection in 1798, is pointed out as a proof of the elevation of
the land there also.

250

In 1679, during the niglit time, a band of Algerine Moors
landed at Kibeira Quente and the little bay of Agriao hard
by, from two three-masted " xebecs/^ and crossing the hills
at the back, descended at day-break into the valley of the
Furnas, capturing all the live-stock they could meet, and
pillaging the villages around, successfully carried off their
spoil to their ships.

As the road approaches Villa Franca, and becomes almost
level, patches of orange gardens with their green selvages
of protecting fayas are passed; and, immediately afterwards,
we enter the '' Villa " itself, an imposing looking town
with its large church, municipal buildings and hospital, its
numerous dwelling houses, clustering together as if for
mutual protection.

Every now and then, when digging out the foundations
of new buildings, parts of the buried town are uncovered,
and trouvaille of various kinds met with ; amongst other
things, quaint earthenware vessels and amphorae filled with
silver and copper coins, of the 16th century, in perfect
preservation, and interesting to the students of numismatics,
have been unearthed.

I was fortunate enough to secure several specimens, both
of pottery and coins, and feel confident that if a more
systematic search were made, the amateur archseologist
and collector of " curios " would reap an interesting, if not
rich harvest.

After the almost entire disfcruction of Villa Franca on
the night of the 21st October, 1522, the terror-stricken
inhabitants were desirous of abandoning the locality for
good, but their captain donatary, Ruy Gon9alves, and the
municipality of the town, ordered large quantities of cedar
and other trees to be cut in the Valley of the Furnas, where
they then abounded, and had these distributed gratis to the
more needy sufferers, thus inducing them to rebuild their
habitations on the same spot.

A sketch of the early history of this place having

251

already been g-iven, it will suffice here to mention tliat
Villa Franca is liappy in the possession of a newspaper,
an omnibus, which runs once or twice a week to the city,
an assembly or club house, a band of music, and boasts
5,937 electors. It has also a pretty square, planted with
trees, known as " Pra9a de D. Luiz," in front of its
excessively unsightly church, dedicated to San Miguel,
and which was much damaged by the earthquake of 1630,
when the entire roof fell in. An interesting circumstance
in connection with the subsequent repairs of this church
may be noted in the fact of the massive beams and joists
used having been cut from the huge cypress trees, which,
as already related, were common in the island on its first
discovery. Those used on this occasion were also brought
from the valley of the Furnas. This is the last authentic
period recorded of these magnificent trees being still in
flourishing condition, and from the great distance from
which they were transported, they were probably the last
in existence at that period in this part of the island.

From the boles occasionally unearthed at the Seven Cities
and Furnas, there is little doubt that these splendid trees
on its first discovery inhabited a high belt of country
extending east and west along the axis of the island. The
probable dearth at that time of solid timber suitable for
building purposes, and the simultaneous introduction of
those enemies to the young forest tree — the goat and hog —
which, with cattle, are said to have increased astonishingly
and become wild, doubtless account for the rapid and total
extinction of these grand denizens of the forest, and with
them probably of interesting plant and insect life.

Padre Cordeiro, in his " Historia Insulana," casually
mentions that the beams and roofing of the church of
Santo Ignacio de Loyola, now forming a chapel to the
palace of the civil governors of Terceira, were constructed
from cedars brought from the island of Flores, where at
that time the tree was said to flourish better ; a proof of its

252

distribution over the entire group — of itself a very re-
markable fact — for both. Flores and Corvo are distant
about 120 miles from the nearest of the other seven islands.

Padre Andrade, in his " Topographia," says that Terceira,
when discovered, was densely wooded with heavy timber ;
all the old churches and other buildings were roofed with
cedar wood. A tradition has it that the immense beams,
even now to be seen supporting the roof of the cathedral
in Angra, were cut at the very spot now occupied by the
old square, showing that these beautiful trees must have
flourished on that island as late as 1570, when the Se was
first commenced.

At S. Roque, in the island of Pico, was still to be found
about the same period abundance of that beautiful wood
called teixo {Taxus haccata, L.), but which, like the cedar,
has long since become extinct.

Besides the assertions of Fructuoso and Cordeiro, we
have that of Linschoten, who resided long at Terceira about
the latter end of the sixteenth century, to the effect that, in
his day, the cedar was the commonest wood in many of the
islands. About this he says : —

" The island, Terceira, hath great store of excellent kinds
of wood, specially cedar trees, which grow there in so great
numbers that they make scutes, carts, and other grosse
workes thereof, and is the commonest wood that they vse to
burne in those countries, whereby it is the wood that with
them is least esteemed, by reason of the great quantity
thereof. Saint George hath likewise many cedar trees and
other kinds of wood, that from thence are brought vnto
Terceira, and sold vnto the joyners, which for that occasion
dwell only in Terceira. These joyners used to turn out fine
pieces of work, as desks, cupboards, chests, and other such
like, supplying the Spanish fleets.

" There is a certain kind of wood in island Pico, situate
and lying twelve miles from Terceira, called teixo, a most
excellent and princely wood, and therefore it is forbidden to

253

be cut, but only for the king's own vse, or for his officers.
The wood is as hard as iron, and hath a colour within as if
it were wrought like red chamlet, with the same water, and
the older it is, and the more vsed, the fairer it is of colour."

In various parts of Terceira, and more especially in the
vicinity of Santa Barbara, are occasionally found immense
cedar trees embedded in deep ravines and valleys, still
in perfect preservation ; such a find is a God-send to
the poor villagers, who instantly cut the bole up for fire-
wood, always in these islands a short commodity amongst
them.

As late as 1607 Sir Arthur Gorges writes, " Fayall is so
called of 'faya,' which in the Portugues signifieth a beech
tree," wherewith that island is said to abound, but yet I
saw there more store of juniper and cedar than of any
wood or timber.

Midway between Villa Franca and Furnas stands the
Pico dos Cedros at an altitude of 2,240 feet, doubtless so
named from the cypress trees, or cedros as the islanders called
it, formerly abounding on its heights. A steep road, not
much frequented and consequently not of the best, leads to
this Pico from Villa Franca, and at a spot two-thirds of its
distance branches off to the Lagoa do Congro, a tarn
buried deep in profound solitude, where in the winter those
fond of shooting, and who have the courage to visit and
stay a day or two in this, then moist, neighbourhood,
have a chance of bagging a few brace of wild duck and
common snipe [Scolojpax gallinago). The views around are
extremely pretty.

On one side of the Pra9a de D. Luiz stands the new
Casa da Camara, on the ground floor of which may be seen
the prison, with its iron-grated windows, enabling the
inmates, employed by the compassionate public in their
various avocations of tailoring, boot making, &c., to hold
unrestricted converse with their sympathetic friends outside.

Villa Franca produces very fine oranges, grown chiefly in

254

the hollows and sheltered valleys, so frequently met with
here, the greater abundance of triturated matter in the soil
from the surrounding- hills (especially oxide of iron), and
the warmei* and drier climate, maturing the fruit quicker
than in any other part of the island ; and it is the first, as a
rule, to find its way into the London markets.

Some ten or twelve schooners, conveying about 80,000
flat boxes of oranges, were, during average seasons, des-
patched to England from its little port.

In these sheltered and fertile depressions of Villa Franca,
the sugar-cane was once cultivated to a large extent, and
several " engenhos " for the manufacture of sugar were
erected here ; but the subsequent cheaper and increased
productions in the Brazils and West Indies, combined with
the scarcity of firewood in the island, killed this industry,
which, as we have seen, was then followed by the pastel,
then the grape, and on the " oidium " attacking the vines,
by the orange, cereal, sweet potato, and pine-apple cultiva-
tion.

During the season 1884-85, Yilla Franca exported to
London and Bristol 22,573 flat boxes of oranges, 334 pack-
ages of tangerines, and 21,171 pine-apples, the value of these
exports amounting to £3,800. The previous season of
1883-84, the shipments of oranges alone amounted to 42,798
flat boxes, which shows how seriously this fruit trade is
declining, the diminished shipments arising chiefly from so
many of the old trees affected with the " molestia ^^ having
been rooted up.

In the bay, and at a distance of a short half-mile, stands
the Ilheo de Villa Franca, a small trap islet, the highest
point of which on the south-west side has an elevation of
about 400 feet above sea level. A few yards on its southern
head rises a huge detached (probably by the action of
the sea) block — like a grim sentinel on guard — adding
picturesqueness to the view. The islet is of easy access in
boats and worth visiting, if only to enjoy the panorama it

255

presents of the town and surrounding- country, which, at
this part, possesses many of the characteristic beauties of
Madeira, as viewed from the sea. Owing its origin to some
remote subaqueous eruption, the rock in its interior presents
the aj)pearance of a circular hollow cone, some thousand feet
in diameter at top, down the northern wall of which the
lava stream flowed, cutting it in two, and admitting the sea
into its funnel, where six fathoms are now sounded.

This entrance, its only means of access, is from 20 to
30 feet across, with two fathoms of water at high tide in the
narrow channel and permitting of small craft taking shelter
within its miniature breakwater, where they may ride in
perfect shelter from the severest storm ; but it is of little
practical use. The diameter of the basin is some 300 feet.

The rock is everywhere rent in deep fissures, some a foot
or more in width, and reaching to its base ; these rents are
the chosen abode of innumerable crabs, many of them of
large size. The face of the islet is covered with drusic
cavities wrought by the erosive action of the heavy seas
beating against it, and almost covering it in winter.
In these crevices countless numbers of starlings seek
shelter, and may be seen in perfect clouds of an evening
wending their way to their safe and undisturbed retreat.
On closely examining these masses of tufa, they will be
found to be also perforated and honeycombed below water,
but from a very different cause, the holes being made by
echini inhabiting these shores, the generally soft nature of
this tufa rock offering them no impediment.

Round the Ilheo quantities of large cray-fish may be
caught, and those fond of fishing will find this an excellent
pastime, for the finny tribe are both numerous and in
great variety.

In 1582, a very remarkable naval engagement took place
off Yilla Franca, the results of which were fraught with
grave consequences to the island, and indeed to the entire
archipelago. As the account has never appeared in any

256

English publication, it may interest my readers if I give a
short resume of the circumstances which led up to and
followed an engagement which brought the whole of these
islands under the yoke of Spain.

The death of the Cardinal King, Dom Henrique, in 1580,
without issue, was the signal for plunging Portugal into
the throes of civil war. Amongst the many pretenders to
the vacant throne, were Philip II. of Spain, who claimed
through his mother, the Empress Isabel, daughter of the
deceased king, Dom Manuel of Portugal ; Dom Antonio, the
Prior of Crato, an illegitimate son of the Infante Dom
Luiz, and nephew of the deceased monarch, Dom Henrique ;
The Princess Catharina, of Braganza, daughter of the
Infante Dom Duarte ; Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma,
who claimed in right of his mother the Princess Maria,
eldest daughter of the Infante Dom Duarte; and the Duke
of Savoy, the son of the Infanta Donna Brites. The Pope
also laid claim to the crown, as heir to the deceased
Cardinal King.

Of these, the only two who showed any disposition to try
the force of arms in support of their pretensions were Philip
of Spain and Dom Antonio, who had caused himself to be
proclaimed king, in June 1580. The former lost no time in
marching an army of his veterans into Portugal, luider the
command of the Duke of Alva, to oppose which, a multitude
of untrained and badly armed peasants were led by Dom
Antonio, only to be utterly routed and dispersed at Alcantra
on the 25th August. Once more gathering his shattered
forces together, the unfortunate Portuguese prince essayed
the fortune of war at Aveiro with even more disastrous
result, his followers being again quickly dispersed, he
himself seeking safety by flight into France. Meanwhile,
Philip, having annexed Portugal to his already unwieldly
dominions, called upon the Portuguese colonies in Africa,
India, and Brazil to recognise his authority, which they
did ; the Azores alone, led by Terceira, stedf astly refusing,

257

professed allegiance to Dom Antonio. Before I proceed
with the details of the sea fight off Villa Franca, the result
of which consolidated the sway of Spain over the whole of
Portugal for a period of 60 years, it will amuse my readers
to learn the issue of an attack made by the Spaniards upon
the refractory island of Terceira, and the manner — unique
in the annals of warfare — in which it was repulsed.

Early in the morning of the 2oth July, 1581, the inhabit-
ants of the village of S. Sebastiao were alarmed at the
sight of a squadron, consisting of seven large Spanish war
galleons, anchored off the little bay of Saiga ; the operations
for landing a hostile force being actually in progress.
Hastily summoning some companies of militia, and collecting
behind a neighbouring knoll a large herd of the semi-wild
cattle from the surrounding pastures, the islanders quietly
awaited the massing of the Spaniards on the beach. When
this had been accomplished the Terceirenses advanced close
up to the foe, as if to the attack, when suddenly opening out
into two long columns, and leaving a wide open space
between, the herd of cattle were sent thundering down the
centre goaded on by picadores on horseback. So unusual
and unexpected a charge threw the Spaniards into the most
complete disorder, and being at once set upon by the islanders
scarcely a man escaped to the ships ; several guns, which
had been landed, falling as spoil to the conquerors.

Having succeeded in gaining the sympathies of the court
of Prance, Prince Antonio was enabled by midsummer of
1582 to equip a formidable expedition for a descent upon the
Azores, and subsequently the coast of Portugal; for Saint
Michael's, never very stable in its ]3olitical leanings, had
shortly before given its adherence to Philip. Antonio's fleet,
commanded by the Count of Vimioso, consisted of 60 sail,
some of considerable size and powerfully armed, carrying
altogether a fighting force of 10,000 men, almost all French,
under Marshal Estrosse, and numerous French noblemen.
Arriving off the island on the 14th July, and receiving a

258

refusal of surrender, they proceeded to cannonade the forts
and towns along the coast for the space of three days, after
which some 3,000 men were landed without any opposition
at a rocky point between Alagoa and Rosto do Cao. These
were quickly followed by Dom Antonio himself, with 2,000
additional men ; the formidable force overrunning the entire
island, which they proceeded to sack and pillage, with the
exception only of Villa Franca, which had pronounced in
favour of the prince. People, too, were butchered in cold
blood, for we have records of some 200 peasants ruthlessly
slain in defending their women from outrage and their
chattels from robbery. Churches even were broken into,
and despoiled of their massive silver ornaments and vessels,
which were carried off ; and the work of rapine and plunder
would have been greater, had not a powerful Spanish fleet,
numbering forty sail, under the Marquis de Santa Cruz,
appeared off the island on the 21st. This fleet is said to
have had 6,000 soldiers, besides marines and sailors, on
board.

By the following day, Dom Antonio had re-embarked
the whole of his men, with the exception of a small French
detachment, left on shore to watch the castle of S. Braz,
into which the governor of the island, Martin Affonso de
Mello, had thrown himself, on the landing of the French,
with the handful of regulars at his disposal. It was, how-
ever, decided by his leaders that Dom Antonio should not risk
his person in the coming engagement, but retire, with a
suitable escort, to the stronghold of Terceira. This he
accordingly did, laying himself open, by this act, to the
severe criticism of the historians of these events.

For three days the hostile fleets did little more than
watch each other, occasionally skirmishing, until, on the
26th, the leading and then the admirals' ships, became
engaged at close quarters, the fight growing furious, and
continuing for upwards of five hours. Late in the day, the
brave Marshal Estrosse was killed, whilst heading a boarding

259

party against the Spanish, admiral's galleon, the " Madre de
Dios." The Count of Yimioso also lost his life in another
gallant effort to retrieve the day, for several of his ships
had now been sunk, others crippled, and those remaining
making all haste to get away. So severe had been the
struggle that the Spaniards were unable for three days
afterwards to follow up their advantage.

One thousand two hundred Frenchmen, besides several
of their leaders, are said to have been killed, and a good
many taken prisoners. Of these latter, Santa Cruz imme-
diately ordered thirty nobles to be decapitated on a scaffold
erected in the market place of Yilla Franca, fifty-three of lesser
grade to be hanged, and, as an earnest of what they might