Class T/ 763.
Book 3Li
Gopyright N°.
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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
Bakers'
Bread
BY
PAUL RICHARDS.
THIRD EDITION.
THE BAKERS' HELPER COMPANY,
CHICAGO.
Copyright, 1913,
By PAUL RICHARDS.
Chicago.
/.fa
©CI.A350330
FOREWORD.
HAVE included in this book the different methods of
**• bread making used in America and in Europe. The
making and use of the different yeasts are explained in
simple terms, also the methods of ferments, sponge and
straight doughs. The recipes are explained in a manner
to insure success, and are so arranged that they may be
adapted to the requirements of different bakeries, besides
giving the up-to-date baker a variety of suggestions for
many kinds of bread.
The variety of flours used in the different parts of this
country often makes it difficult to work the same recipes
equally well in all places. Bakers coming from the East
find it hard to work with the flours of the West, and vice
versa; the treatment of doughs also varies very much in
different shops. Almost all these points have been covered
in this book.
Baking is a business of many details, and it pays at all
times to be particular in the small points of the work. The
success of our foremost bakers is due to the fact that they
have mastered these details and studied the business
theoretically as well as practically.
From year to year the baking industry has advanced to
a more and more scientific basis; for this reason every
baker should try to obtain a technical education to be able
to test his own materials, and to control the conditions un-
der which he makes his bread. Thus prepared, he could go
(3>
4 Foreword.
to any part of the country and produce a uniform bread
everywhere.
The old-time guess work, the trusting to good luck,
must go. Every progressive baker should use the ther-
mometer in his shop; Dy careful attention to the tempera-
ture of the shop and materials, also to the weight of the
flour and water, the baker is able to make a dough of a
uniform temperature, which can be relied upon to be ready
at a certain time. The oven should be provided with a good
pyrometer, by means of which the knowledge of the baking
heat can be readily acquired. If a shop is supplied with the
right kind of appliances, and the baker learns how to use
them, it leaves out guess work and makes good results
certain.
Hoping the book will prove useful to the baker I submit
it herewith to the fraternity.
CONTENTS.
Buns and Rusks.
Bismarck Buns 77
Caraway and Anise Buns 78
Cocoanut Buns 78
Currant Buns 75
English Bath Buns 79
Floradora Buns 716
Fruit in Cakes and Buns 74
German Almond Buns 75
German Streusel Buns 76
Hot Cross Buns 74
Martha Washington Buns 77
Nut Filling 77
Opera Buns 77
Plain Buns 75
Plain Currant Buns 75
Rusks 78
Standard Dough Mixtures 73
Streusel 76
Sultana Buns 75
Coffee Cakes.
Almond Coffee Cake 85
American Kauglauff 92
Berlin Napfkuchen, Plain 91
Butter Pretzel 87
Coffee Cake No. 2 85
Dresden Baba 91
French Baba 91
French Coffee Cake 86
French Tea Rolls 87
German Cheese Cakes 88
German Coffee Cakes 84
German Cream Cake 89
German Kranzkuchen 88
German Napfkuchen 91
German Potato Coffee Cake 85
Plain Coffee Cake 85
Potato Cream Cake 87
(
Raisin Coffee Cake u j
Savarin Cakes 91
Snails 90
Wreaths 89
Doughnuts, Muffin* and Griddle
Cakea.
American Butter Cakes 101
Baking Powder Biscuit 99
Bismarcks 95
Buckwheat Cakes with Baking Pow-
der 102
Corn Gridle Cakes 103
Corn Muffins 99
Crumpets 99
Crumpets with Baking Powder ... 99
Doughnuts No. 1 94
Doughnuts No. 2 95
Doughnuts or Crullers with Baking
Powder 96
Dresden Cheese Puffs 96
English Muffins 97
English Muffins in Rings 97
French Crullers 96
Graham Griddle Cakes 103
Jelly Doughnuts 95
Muffins with Baking Powder 98
New York Butter Cakes 101
Sally Lunn 98
Sally Lunn Muffins 98
Scotch Scones 100
Tea Biscuit 100
Vienna Krapfen 95
Wheat Calces with Baking Powder. 102
Yeast-Raised Buckwheat Cakes 102
Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 94
Yeast-Raised Griddle Cakes 102
Yeast-Raised Muffins (Sweet
Biscuit 98
5)
Bakers1 Bread.
Dough-Making Methods.
Dough Made with Sponge i o
Effect of Altitude on Baking Mix-
tures 15
Lime- Water in Baking 14
Milk in Dough Mixtures 14
Short and Long-Timed Straight
Doughs 11
Soft-Crusted Breads 16
Sponge and Dough 9
Straight Dough 10
Temperature in Dough-Making. . . 12
Using Ice in Sponge and Dough.. 12
Hearth-Baked Breads.
Cottage Bread and Split Bread 29
Cottage Bread with Compressed
Yeast 30
Dutch Bread 30
French Split Bread 30
Irish Bread 3*
Irish Bread with Straight Dough.. 31
Potato Bread 31
Potato Bread with Potato Flour.. 31
Twist Bread 31
French Breads.
Chicago French Bread 47
French Bread with Ferment .... 50
French Bread with Short Sponge
and Compressed Yeast 50
New York French Bread 48
Home-Made Breads.
Columbia Bread 22
Cream Bread or Milk Bread 26
Home-Made Bread with Com-
pressed Yeast Sponge 20
Home-Made Bread with a Flour
Ferment 20
Home-Made Bread with a Sponge
of Ferment 20
Home-Made Milk Bread 20
Mother's Bread 22
New England Bread 24
New England Bread with Fer-
ment 24
New England Bread with Sponge. 25
New England Bread with Straight
Dough 25
Other Pan Breads 35
Pan Breads with Compressed Yeast
Sponge '. 26
Pan Breads with Ferment 25
Potato Bread 26
Pullman Bread 28
Quaker Breads 21
Quaker Bread with Compressed
Yeast 21
Quaker Bread with Ferment 21
Snow Flake Bread 23
Snow Flake Bread — Sandwich
Loaf 24
Snow Flake Bread with Buttermilk 23
Individual Breads and Rolls.
American Vienna Roll Mixtures. . . 67
Bread Sticks 61
Butter Rolls 69
Cheese Sticks 62
Cheese Straws and Biscuits 62
Columbia Roll 70
Finger Rolls 70
French Brioche 61
French Flutes 65
French Rolls 65
French Split Rolls 65
German Rolls 66
Graham Rolls 71
German Water Rolls 67
Hamburg Rundstuck (German
Brodchen) 67
Milk Rolls 69
New Orleans Rolls 70
Parker House Roll 68
Plain Sandwich Roll 71
Pocket Book Roll 69
Pulled Bread 61
Rasp Roll (Raspel Brodchen) 63
Soup Sticks with Baking Powder . . 62
Vienna Brioches 65
Vienna Milk Rolls 64
Vienna Rolls 63
Vienna Rolls with Shortening.... 64
Vienna Rolls with Straight Dough. 68
Vienna Water Rolls 64
Rye Breads.
Bohemian Rye Bread 55
Half Rye Bread 56
Half Rye Bread with Molasses. ... 56
Pumpernickel 57
Rye Bread with Sour Dough 53
Contents.
Rye Bread with Sour Dough and
Yeast 55
Rye Bread with a Straight Dough. 55
Rye Bread with Sugar and Lard.. 56
Sour Dough for Rye Breads 54
Special Breads.
Boston Brown Bread 35
Boston Brown Bread with Baking
Powder 3°
Boston Brown Bread with Soda.. 36
Buttermilk Corn Bread 38
Cheap Fruit Bread 41
Cocoanut Bread 4*
Electric Brown Bread 35
Fancy Fruit Bread 40
Fruit Breads with Baking Powder 42
Fruit Bread with Molasses 41
Graham Bread 33
Graham Bread with Soda and
Sponge 34
Graham Bread with Straight Dough 34
New Orleans Corn Bread Yeast
Raised 3»
Nut Bread No. 2 37
Nut Health Bread 36
Oaten Bread No. 1 37
Oaten Bread No. 2 38
Rice Bread 40
Salt Rising Bread 42
Southern Family Corn Bread 39
Southern Fruit Bread 42
Sultana (Seedless Raisin) Bread.. 41
Whole Wheat Bread 34
Whole Wheat Bread with Potatoes 34
Yeast-Raised Brown Bread 35
The Small Baker and Fiours.
Flour Storage "2
Graham and Whole Wheat Flour. 113
New Flours lI1
Rye Flour and Rye Meal "3
Testing Flours "2
Vienna Breads.
Vienna Bread; Straight Dough with
Ferment 45
Vienna Bread with a Short Sponge 44
Vienna Bread without Sugar or
Lard 45
Vienna Bread with Sponge with-
out Milk 45
Yeasts and Their Use.
Compressed Yeast 104
Ferment with Compressed Yeast.. 107
General Suggestions 109
Maiden Yeast 104
Potato Ferments 108
Stock Yeast ^5
Yeast Cake— Dry Yeast »o8
Zwieback and Stollen.
Almond Stollen 82
German Stollen 82
Hamburg Kinder Zwieback 81
Hamburg Zwieback 80
Hamburg Zwieback No. 2 80
Hungarian or Presburg Zwieback. 81
Other German Zwieback 81
Plain Stollen 83
Plain Stollen No. 2 83
Vienna Zwieback 81
Miscellaneous.
Various Breads from One Sponge. 115 Maryland Beaten Biscuit..
German Puffs or Pop-overs 116
Machinery in Small Bakery 118
Southern Beaten Biscuit »7
The Use of Malt Extract.
Malt Extract in Bread
Malt Extract as a Yeast Saver.
119
.121
Three Recipes for Malted
Bread
.119
Dougk-Making Methods.
SPONGE AND DOUGH.
The system of sponge and dough is the most largely used by
bakers. It saves yeast and has some advantages over straight
doughs, because it enables the baker to make different kinds of
doughs out of one sponge. A sponge can be set for a longer time
than a straight dough, and if it gets too old more water can be
added to save it, although it is not advisable to use too old a sponge
because too long fermentation takes out flavor.
Sponges are termed "long" and "short" sponges according to
the length of time required during the fermentation till it is ready
for doughing.
The time can be made long or short by using more or less yeast,
and increasing or lowering the temperature of the water when set-
ting the sponge, and also by making a slacker or tighter sponge — that
is to use less or more flour in mixing. When setting sponge with
compressed yeast the yeast is made stronger by dissolving it before
setting the sponge and working it with some flour and warm water
into a soft paste or batter. And setting it aside for twenty minutes
in a warm place. When this time has elapsed it is thinned up with
the other water and the sponge is finished.
The flour should not be drawn in all at one time ; about half of
it should be taken at first and worked in and then the rest should
be added and beaten in good and dry. This assures a good sponge
The sponge rises up evenly, and when it reaches maturity it shows
bubbles. After some time the bubbles burst and give off gas and
the sponge drops in the centre, and when it is down about two inches
it is ready for doughing. This stage is termed the "first drop." If
a sponge is not taken at this stage it begins to rise again after some
time, and then drops again; this is the "second drop." With a
strong flour the fermentation will continue in this manner till all
the strength of the flour is exhausted, and the sponge turns sour.
Many bakers like to take the sponge on the second drop, and
claim it is better for the stronger flours to use it at this stage; it
(9)
10 Bakers* Bread.
makes a larger loaf, gives more expansion. But I prefer to take
sponges on the first drop, because it gives a better flavored loal A
sponge should not be taken when it is rising; after it has attained
the drop it should be taken going down and before rising again.
Where different grades of flour are used it is best to use the
stronger flour for the sponge and the weaker for doughing. A
sponge made out of weak flour should not be given much age; it
should be taken always at the first drop, because the flour loses its
resistance and would cause a small, heavy loaf. A sponge of weak
flour should be set tighter than a sponge of stronger flour.
The long sponges are useful for the baker because they can be
set in the evening and taken in the morning. The night sponges
are set at 8 or 9 p. m., and taken at 4 and 5 a. m. This gives a good
night's rest to the baker, and the dough can be got ready in a short
time for moulding.
The short sponges are set in the morning, and a sponge can be
got ready to the drop in a very short time. It depends merely on the
temperature and on the amount of yeast used. Compressed yeast is
the strongest and a very short sponge can be made by its use.
DOUGH MADE WITH SPONGE.
A dough made with a sponge differs from a straight dough be-
cause it requires a shorter time to get ready for use. The time for
a sponge dough to get ready for use is from one to one and a halt
flours. A half sponge dough is when one-half of the water or milk
is used in the sponge and the other half is put on for doughing. If
more sponge is used, like in a two-thirds sponge or three-quarter
sponge, the time is shortened by half. For some kinds of rolls an
in goods where a strong proof is required, like in coffeecake, the
sponge is used, straight, only the eggs, sugar and butter are added
and more flour is worked in to give the proper consistency to the
dough.
STRAIGHT DOUGH.
The straight or off-hand dough process is coming more and
more in favor with the bakers; it saves time and labor, and makes
the sweetest and best flavored bread. The straight dough is made
by mixing all the materials at one time. It can be made with any
kind of yeast, but making straight dough has come more in use
since the stronger and more reliable compressed yeast became better
known. A straight dough requires more yeast than a sponge dough.
Dough- Making. It
and the larger the quantity of yeast used in it the sooner it will
be ready for use.
If a straight dough is set at a warm temperature and with the
right quantity of yeast, it can be got ready for moulding in four
hours. A straight dough can also be set at a cool temperature in
the evening, and used in the morning.
SHORT AND LONG-TIMED STRAIGHT DOUGHS.
The advantages of short straight doughs over sponge doughs
are many. They save time and labor, and all the baking can be
done during the daytime. Practical bakers prefer short doughs be-
cause they can be watched during the time they are coming, and
the best results are obtained. Straight doughs set over night can-
not be timed accurately, because of the changes in the outside tem-
perature, which may cause such doughs to ripen earlier or later as
the case may be. By using less yeast and iced water a straight
dough can be made to come slow and be ready in from ten to
twelve hours even during the hottest season. For example: A
straight dough to be ready for moulding in about four hours should
be managed in the following manner: For a two-pail batch, 20
quarts, take ten ounces of compressed yeast, twelve ounces of
salt, twelve ounces of sugar and twenty ounces of lard. Make
the dough at a warm temperature so that it will register from
eighty to eighty-five degrees Fahr., when made, and have the shop
at a similar temperature, say from seventy-five to eighty degrees.
This temperature should be kept up evenly till the moulded loaves
are ready for the oven. Make a good medium firm dough. Partic-
ular attention should be paid to the mixing; a well mixed dough
with plenty of air beaten in will prove well and make a finer grained
and larger loaf than a dough mixed carelessly and insufficiently.
At the given temperature the dough should be cut over after lying
for two hours, given one hour to come and cut over again; after
half an hour rest the dough is ready for moulding. A large dough
should be divided in several parts during the cutting over and each
piece well worked over. All this helps to make a good strong
dough and a good loaf. Where there is plenty of oven space, or
continuous ovens, several batches can be made in succession, and
the dough can be timed to be ready when required.
For an overnight dough made after the same recipe a lower
temperature and less yeast are required. Take about three ounces
of yeast for a two-pail batch, and set the dough at about seventy
X2 Bakers' Bread.
degrees Fahr. This dough set at six in the evening, would be ready
at about six in the morning, excepting in case of excessive changes
of temperature during this time. It would improve this dough if it
could get a cutting over after lying for about eight hours, and after
four more hours it could be taken at once for moulding. If it is
not cut over during the twelve hours, the dough rises to full ma-
turity, then flattens and falls like a sponge. For such a dough it is
preferable to give it only a little time on the bench to recover, then
mould and pan at once.
During the hot season the doughs require a still lower tem-
perature, and the amount of salt may be increased to ten ounces for
the pail; while during the cold winter months more yeast and less
salt is the general rule. Large batches also require less yeast to
the pail than small ones, or two-pail batches.
A straight dough after it is ready for moulding can be made
into rolls, coffee cake, etc., by adding more sugar and butter or lard
in the same manner as adding to a sponge.
TEMPERATURE IN DOUGH-MAKING.
To obtain uniform results in baking, a baker should use a ther-
mometer and keep the shop at an even temperature. The tempera-
ture of the shop, of the flour and of the water should be taken ; and
if a sponge is used the temperature of it should also be taken before
doughing. A temperature from 700 F. to 75° F., is considered the
most favorable for a dough. A dough at this temperature becomes
stronger and makes a better loaf and allows the use of a softer
dough than if a higher temperature is used. At a higher tempera-
ture the dough rises faster and can be taken at a shorter time, but
loses strength. It can not stand as much proof, and makes conse-
quently a smaller loaf.
To obtain the right temperature for a dough to be set at 750,
we take the temperature of the flour. Say it is only 50° and the
shop is 700 ; this would require the water to be about 1020 to make
up 750 in the sponge to allow for heat absorbed by the cooler shop.
Short straight doughs are set at a temperature from 8o° to 850
and are not affected or weakened by this temperature.
The size of a trough is an important factor in making the
dough. It should be large enough to give plenty of room for work-
ing it from one side to the other and should be supplied with a mov-
able partition. A dough should also have plenty of room to prove
up after it is made, and not be penned up in too small a space.
Dough-Making. 13
A. dough should get the right fermentation before it is worked
over. It should come up till it starts to break, then it should be
worked down well and allowed to come up again, given another cut,
allowed to come on and then it is ready to be used. A baker should
always be careful in taking a dough, because only a practical ex-
perience will teach when the dough has got the proper age. When a
dough gets the right age it loses the green feeling and becomes
dry and strong, and does not stick to the fingers. It is a point
learned only by experience.
USING ICE IN SPONGE AND DOUGH.
During the hot season there is often serious trouble ahead for
the baker in the necessity to keep the doughs from getting too old
and having sour bread. Although much can be done to keep a shop
cool by means of fans and spraying with water, and also the flour
can possibly be kept in a cooler place than where it is kept during
the cold months, still something is liable to happen any time; the
sudden atmospheric changes upset all ordinary calculations and the
result is sour bread.
To counteract these atmospheric influences some of our modern
bakeries are using large refrigerating rooms, and have regular ice-
machines for this purpose, just like the cold storage plants. By this
means they are able to control the dough at will and obtain a uniform
loaf of bread at any time of the year. Ice plants like this are ex-
pensive, and bakers who have no such advantages have to use ice
and iced water for sponge and dough. For this reason it is ad-
visable not to make too large batches of dough, because a smaller
batch is easier controlled. A large batch should be made into two
small ones like this : For instance, we intend to make a twelve-pail
batch in warm weather, we set sponge with six pails of water and
and the proper amount of yeast or ferment. When the sponge is
ready we proceed and make the dough; we put on the other six
pails of water with the salt in it. Even in summer the average
spring and hydrant water is cool enough to be used as it is, but
where this is not the case, and the flour is overheated or the shop
too hot, iced water has to be used to get the right temperature.
We break up the sponge well and transfer one-half of it to the other
trough. If the weather is very warm we can add a couple of pieces
of ice and another handful of salt to the part of the broken sponge
which is intended for the second batch, and make up the first half
into dough. When this dough is ready we can commence to make
14 Bakers' Bread.
up the second batch or wait as we see fit. This way of making
dough in two batches instead of in one is probably slower, but there
is not so much danger of sour bread, especially where there is not
enough oven space to bake the bread at one time, as it gives from
thirty minutes to one hour's time between the two batches. Salt is
also a check on fermentation and it should be used more freely in
summer.
MILK IN DOUGH MIXTURES.
Milk makes a very palatable bread, and it can be used in straight
doughs as well as in sponges without any danger of souring, if
handled carefully. Many bakers object to using milk in doughs
because it is more difficult than water to use with yeast. I would
not advise its use in sponges of a high temperature without boiling
it before using, but it will work all right in a cool sponge.
When using all milk for bread, I should prefer using it in a
straight dough. When only half or part milk is used, I should
sponge with water and u:e the milk for doughing.
Milk that is beginning to turn can be used for doughing by
adding a teaspoonful of baking soda to the gallon of milk. Sour
milk, if put on a sponge for doughing, will make the fermentation
more rapid, and ages the dough in a shorter time ; but it should not
be used with the yeast in a sponge. In the hot season I would
not advise the use of milk in very large batches, because it will
make the dough prove faster and it requires close watching and a
cool treatment.
Milk takes up less flour than the same quantity of water, and
in consequence will make a firmer dough, which will bake quicker.
It will also give more color to the crust in baking, and the crumb
is of a rich cream color.
LIME WATER IN BAKING.
Like alum, lime water has been used for years in bread-making,
to improve weak bodied flours. The use of alum has been given
up for sanitary reasons, but lime water is still used to correct flours,
which have got damp in the package and become musty or sour.
It is also used in green flours which run in the dough, caused
by unripe and sprouted wheat. In some flours, like the Oregon
flour, which contain very little gluten, and can not stand much
proof, lime water is used to strengthen the flour and to allow more
proof in the dough. Although weak flours as a general rule require
less yeast than the strong flours, if lime water is used with a weak
Dough-Making, 15
flour, it requires also a strong, vigorous yeast or ferment, because
cne iime water checks fermentation; but the dough should be taken
young, when it is up the first time. The lime water is made like
the pickle which is used for preserving eggs, only leave the salt
out. Take one pound of fresh dry slacked lime and stir it up
well with one pail of twelve quarts of water; let it settle, and
draw off the clear liquid without disturbing the sediment on the
bottom. Use from one to two quarts of it for the pail of dough
and use it in the dough only, not in the sponge. Use more yeast
in the sponge. The proportions I have given apply to the Oregon
flours, which I used at that time of my experiments. As some
flours work differently, and are stronger or weaker, they require
more or less of the lime water.
EFFECT OF ALTITUDE ON BAKING MIXTURES.
It is always a puzzle to bakers, used to work in lower altitudes,
that some of the general recipes do not work as usual, and even the
yeast works more vigorously in the doughs and sponges when they
get out west in the higher altitudes of Colorado and other mountain
states. I had some experience of it at the time I worked at Denver,
but this difference is still more pronounced at the more elevated
cities of Leadville and Cripple Creek. Bread and rolls prove more
rapidly and require less yeast (or a weaker grade of yeast), and
this can easily be regulated. The greatest difficulty is with the cake
mixtures. The ordinary mixtures will rise and fall during baking
as if there was too much baking powder in it, and the rich grades of
cakes were the most difficult to make. I had a man with me who
had been there for some years, and through him I learned to over-
come this difficulty.
In comparing our recipes I found less sugar was used in all of
them and in some more flour, also less baking powder and ammonia.
In rich mixtures like pound-cake, wine-cake and other loaf-cakes,
it amounted to from three to four ounces to the pound of sugar less,
and in the layer-cake mixtures (also for jelly-roll) it was about two
ounces less,. The amount of baking powder is about half, and in
some mixtures one-third less than is required in the eastern mix-
tures; the same also with ammonia. Lady-finger mixtures and also
angel cake and sunshine cake stand more flour, about two ounces
more to the pound of flour than is given in ordinary mixtures.
It seems the higher altitudes would require still less leavening
agents, and also less shortening and sugar.
16 Bakers' Bread.
SOFT-CRUSTED BREADS.
Although some food experts say that the crust is the best part
of the bread, and contains the most nourishment, the public in gen-
eral prefer a soft, thin-crusted bread. The richer grades of bread,
which contain milk, sugar or lard, are liked better than the all -water
breads. I have observed myself that in a restaurant where several
kinds of bread were served in one basket, the soft-crusted and
richer breads were liked better and more used than the hard, tough-
crusted French breads.
The French bread, which should be the ideal dinner bread,
gives more and more way to the richer and softer-crusted Vienna
bread. Many bakers, who are making French bread, add milk or
sugar and shortening to it, and in some bakeries it is made alto-
gether out of the Vienna dough, only in the shape of the long,
narrow French loaves, and given a little more crust in baking. To
produce a soft and brittle crust, with a good bloom, to make a good
Vienna bread, it is necessary to have a good oven, which holds
steam. It is the steam which forms a coat of moisture on the loaf
when it is put in the oven, gives the dough time to expand, and
forms the soft, even crust, which is so well liked.
This soft crust can also be produced on panbreads, if they are
baked in steam ; and in an oven without steam attachments the same
soft, thin crust is produced by covering the panbreads during baking
with another pan ; or have pans made with a cover to fit, and made
in single and double pans. The loaves weigh about two pounds and
a quarter in the dough, which fills the pan when proved and baked,
and makes a nice, square slice of bread with a thin crust.
Every baker knows sugar and milk give color to the crust in
baking, and lard or butter makes the crust short and brittle. If all
milk is used, the crust colors too much, and is soft and dark brown,
not as good as if only one-half or only one-third milk is used, and
some lard with it. A very good crust is also produced by leaving
out the milk and using sugar and lard only; but then some of the
pleasant taste, which milk gives to the bread, is missing. For a
good Vienna bread, the best combination would be for a three-gallon
pail, about one gallon of milk, two of water, one pound of lard,
twelve ounces of sugar, or one pound of glucose, and eight ounces
of salt. Sponge with water, and put on the milk for doughing, and
use a good, strong flour. The same mixture may be used for Cream
Bread and Jfullman. with some soft flour added; this should make
Dough- Making. 17
a good loaf. If Vienna bread is baked in an oven which does not
hold steam, it should be washed with water before going into the
oven, and when withdrawn a thin cornstarch wash should be used
to glaze it. A good egg-wash can also be used before baking; but
in this case the bread is not washed after coming out. All these
breads require a cool treatment in the sponge and dou^h, and if the
loaves during the proving process are exposed to draughts or a dry
heat, a crust is formed on the dough which will show after they are
baked. For this reason it is best to prove it in a box, proving closet
or in closed pans, and get it in the oven as moist as possible. The
result will be a nice, thin crust and a good bloom.
Another kind of bread of a short and brittle crust is produced
in the split loaves, and also in the small split rolls. This class of
breads require no steam, but milk and shortening are used, and
they are washed with lard before they are pressed in with the roll-
ing-pin, and this produces the brittle crust when baked. A little
practical study of this subject will teach any baker to obtain the
desired crust.
OVEN TEMPERATURES, ETC.
The baking heat for bread is often registered as from 350 to
500 degrees Fahrenheit in the different makes of ovens; and this
depends largely on how near or how far the meter is placed from
the furnace. For this reason a certain scale cannot be adopted
for all ovens. A few trials will teach the right degree of baking
heat, and each baker should fix his own scale to suit the oven he
is using. In ovens which register 450 degrees as the right heat
for white bread, a slightly higher degree (say 480 to 500 degrees)
may be used for rye breads, 450 for white and French and Vienna
bread and rolls; 300 to 350 for the different cakes and a lower
degree for macaroons, meringues, etc.
To avoid confusion in regard to the size of pails referred to in
various recipes in the pages following, the size should be under-
stood to be a ten-quart pail (20 pounds of water), except in
cases where the pail is given as a twelve-quart pail.
Home Made Breads.
The name "home made" has always been an attraction to the
public; it suggests something better and superior, more healthful
and substantial, than ordinary bread. That is the reason why home-
made breads often bring a higher price than others. The method
of making bread in families is mostly by means of a straight dough ;
the dough is generally set in the evening and left to rise. In the
morning it is kneaded, again left to rise a short time, then it is
moulded into loaves, proved and baked.
The older recipes for home made bread called for water only;
some for half milk; and no shortening is mentioned in any of them.
They all used stock and potato yeast The more modern recipes
mention sugar and lard, besides milk and also compressed yeast.
Some use boiled and grated potatoes, and others scalded corn-
meal.
It is significant that with the introduction of compressed yeast
the recipes begin to change, and shortening and sugar is used. It
seems to indicate that something was lacking in the breads after
giving up the use of stock yeast and potato ferment, and the sugar
and lard were added as an improvement. Many old bakers assert
that the old process makes a better bread, keeps it moister and
gives a better flavored loaf. The family-made bread is heavier
than the average bakers' bread, but it is good to eat and retains
more moisture. It is not so great in volume, but it is more sub-
stantial. The objection raised against some bakers' bread is always :
"It is too spongy and not substantial enough." Home made breads
are generally baked in single pans in one and two-pound loaves;
but there is no certain rule. Sometimes hearth-baked breads are
sold as home-made. The loaves are washed by some bakers before
baking, and others brush the tops with lard or melted butter when
taking them from the oven. This makes the crust brittle, and gives
it a pleasant taste.
To meet this objection, and to make something more like a
family loaf, I give here some of the old recipes which can be used
08)
Home-Made Breads. 19
for pan breads and also for hearth breads; only if hearth-baked,
a firmer dough is required. In all these recipes where a pail is in-
dicated, a ten-quart pail is intended, unless otherwise specified:
No. 1. — One pail ferment, 3 pails water, iy2 pounds salt. Make
a straight dough in the evening. Set rather cool (about 650 F.)
at 9 p. m., and take it at 5 a. m., or sooner, if it is ready; work it
down and let it come up again; knock it down once more; let it
come up half, and make into loaves. Do not give full proof in
the pan. Bake in 350° F.
No. 2. — One pail milk and water, 6 pounds boiled potatoes, 6
quarts of ferment or 6 ounces of yeast, 7 ounces salt. Mash the
potatoes while warm. Dissolve the yeast; add the water and milk,
also the salt; and make a smooth dough, rather tight; set at 750 F.,
and keep at an even temperature. If this dough is made in the
morning it will be up in about five hours; work it over again;
let it rise again, then make it into loaves, pan and bake in a good
heat. This should make a nice moist loaf.
No. 3. — Here is one of my old recipes which I have used for
years and can recommend as tried and reliable. I have used it
for French Bread and for pan bread, also for cottage and split
loaves, but the dough should be made firmer for the latter two.
It will also make a good crisp split roll: One pail of potato fer-
ment, 3 quarts water, 10 ounces salt. Make a straight dough ; set at
75° F. Take a good strong potato ferment; dissolve the salt in
the water, and with two parts of spring and one part of winter
wheat flour make a medium firm dough; work it well and pen
up close. In a warm shop this dough will be up in three hours;
work it over and let it come up half. Then throw out, scale and
mould into loaves; prove and bake. This is best suited for the
shop because a batch can be turned out in five hours without forcing
it. To obtain a solid loaf care should be taken not to give full proof
in baking. Sugar and lard can be used in this recipe if desired
to make a richer bread.
No. 4. — Twelve quarts water, 5 ounces yeast, 1 pound lard,
12 ounces sugar, 8 ounces salt. Make a straight dough; work it
well and smooth ; set it at 75 ° F. ; let it come up full and work it
over; and let it come up double size; then scale, mold back, and set
in pans and prove; bake in 3500 F.
No. 5. — Two pails water, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, J4 pound
compressed yeast, 10 ounces salt. Dissolve the yeast, and make
a thin batter with flour and one quart of water; let it stand for
20 Bakers' Bread.
twenty minutes in a warm place, then add the other liquid, sugar
and salt; work in more flour, add the lard and finish as in the
former recipe.
HOME MADE MILK BREAD.
Six ounces yeast, 3 gallons water, 1 gallon milk, 3 pounds
scalded cornmeal, y2 pound sugar, 6 ounces salt. Dissolve the yeast
in one pint of warm water and add flour to make a soft batter;
beat it up well and let it stand in a warm place for twenty min-
utes; then put on the other liquid at the right temperature; add
sugar, lard, cornmeal and salt, and make a medium dough. Let this
dough come up full ; work down and give only a little time to come
on; scale and mould; put in pans and give good three-quarters
proof; bake in a solid heat. This dough should be worked over
very well, because the cornmeal makes it rather sticky.
HOME MADE BREADS WITH A SPONGE OF FERMENT.
Set a sponge with one pail of straight potato ferment and a
good patent flour. When this sponge reaches the first drop add 1
pail of water, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, $4 pound of salt. Break
up the sponge well with the sugar and salt in it; mix in half
of the flour; then add the lard; mix this in well, and then add the
other flour required for a good dough; work it smooth; let it
come up well, and then scale, mould, pan and prove. Bake in a
solid heat. A dough made out of a sponge should be made a little
tighter than a straight dough because it will slacken some after it is
made.
HOME MADE BREAD WITH A FLOUR FERMENT.
Six ounces yeast, 2 gallons water, 1 gallon milk, 1 pint molasses,
6 ounces lard, 6 ounces salt. Set a very slack sponge, or rather a
ferment, with the water, some flour, yeast and molasses; set it
luke-warm about the thickness of a griddle cake batter; beat it
up well, and set to rise. When this ferment falls, which will be
in about two hours or before, put on the milk, salt and shortening,
and make the dough; let it come up well; work over; scale; mould
back; put in pans; prove, and bake in a good heat of 3500 F.
HOME MADE BREAD WITH COMPRESSED VEAST SPONGE.
Two pails of water, 5 ounces yeast, 1 pound salt, }i pound sugar,
x/2 pound lard, 2 pounds of cornmeal made into mush. Make the
sponge with one pail of water; dissolve the yeast and set at 75° to
8o° P., not too tight. When the sponge is ready, put on the other
Home-Made Breads. 21
pail of water with the salt, sugar and lard. If the mush is lumpy
it should be thinned and forced through a sieve on the sponge.
Break the sponge fine, and make a good medium firm dough; work
it well, because the mush gives a wet, unfinished feel to the dough.
Let it come up well; work down and let it spring on again; scale
and make into loaves without moulding back; give good proof and
bake in a good solid heat.
QUAKER BREADS.
The bread sold under this name is a double pan loaf, that is,
two loaves are baked in one pan. In some places they are made in.
a long shape, and two one pound loaves are set in one square panr
others are baked in one long pan in a square shape. Other bakers
use two square pans strapped together, so the loaves touch only on
the top and can be easily separated and sold single. Almost every
baker has a different recipe for making Quaker Bread. While some
bakers use the best grades of flour for this bread, others use only
the second grades. Sugar and lard are used for it by all bakers,
and some add cornmeal mush, or use cornflour, and others use
glucose or molasses instead of sugar.
These breads are best made with straight dough; but they can
also be made by sponge process, or taken from a sponge of which
other breads are made; but the dough should be taken young and
should contain sugar and lard. If malt extract is used half of the
sugar given in the recipes would be sufficient.
QUAKER BREAD WITH FERMENT.
One pail ferment, 1 pound of sugar or one pint molasses, J4
pound salt, H pound lard. Make a straight dough with a good
strong patent flour; let it come up twice; scale and mold in pans;
give good proof and bake in a good heat of 3500 F. to 4000 F.
QUAKER BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST.
One pail water, 5 ounces yeast, ]/2 pound glucose, 2 pounds corn-
meal mush, 6 ounces salt, H pound lard. Dissolve the yeast and
glucose in warm water and make a soft batter with some flour;
let it stand for twenty minutes, then thin up this batter with the
other water; add salt mush and lard and make a good smooth
dough; let it prove up well; work down well; let it come on half
and scale and mold in pans. Give good proof and bake in a good
solid heat.
22 Bakers* Bread.
mother's bread.
"Mother's Bread" is also baked as a double pan loaf, like the
Quaker Bread. It is made by the straight dough method with
sugar and lard, in about double the quantities given in the Quaker
Bread recipes. The same pans are used and it is molded round,
dusted slightly with flour, set in the pans so as to touch lightly, and
is baked without using any wash. Three recipes are given :
No. i. — One pail of water, I pound of sugar, i pound of lard, 5
ounces of yeast, 6 ounces of salt. Dissolve the yeast in the water;
add the sugar, salt and lard and make a smooth dough; work it
well and let it come up full the first time; let it come again about
half; scale, mold, pan, prove, and bake in a medium heat — about
3250 F. Do not give too much proof, because this bread should be
close grained like the "Home-made" bread.
No. 2. — With ferment and milk — 14 pail of strong potato fer-
ment, l/2 pail milk, l/2 pound sugar, l/2 pound lard, 8 ounces salt
Make a straight dough; take the ferment, sugar and salt and work
in a part of the flour to make a thin batter; let it stand for about
twenty minutes in a warm place ; warm the milk and add it with the
lard to the batter and make a medium dough rather tight; let it
come up once, then work it over ; let it come up half, and mold into
loaves. Bake in a good solid heat of 3500 F.
No. 3. — This is a recipe for a straight dough potato bread,
without lard : Two pails of water, half a peck potatoes, six ounces
of yeast, twelve ounces of sugar and one pound of salt. Boil well-
washed potatoes, mash and strain through the colander, add water
to make up two ten-quart pails at about 85 degrees Fahr. ; make a
medium firm dough and let it come up well which will take four
to five hours, work over. Give one more hour, then mould and
pan as usual. Give only medium proof in the pan to make a solid
loaf.
COLUMBIA BREAD.
"Columbia" Bread became well known in 1893, during the
Columbian Exposition. It had a good sale for some years, but did
not stay in favor with the public. It was very white and fine-
grained, but lacked flavor. The bread is machine-mixed and made
with a very old sponge, then the dough is run through the brake
or rollers about twenty times, and molded and panned at once.
When the bread is molded up and has a little proof it is cut over
five times, proved and baked in steam.
Home-Made Breads. 2%
This is the recipe for it: Three pails water, V/2 pounds com-
pressed yeast, 1 pound 14 ounces salt, 3 pounds sugar, 2>Va pounds
lard. Set the sponge with two pails of water and the yeast. Do
not have it too slack; let it get the second drop; put on the other
sail of water, the sugar, salt and lard; make a firm dough; let it
come on for fifteen minutes; run through the rollers twenty times;
scale and mold and pan at once. Cut five times and let it prove,
and then bake in steam.
SNOWFLAKE BREAD.
"Snowflake" bread is practically the same as the "Columbia,"
the difference is chiefly a difference in name. It is also termed
"Choice" bread. Bakers who have no machinery can use hand-
rollers which are not very expensive. They can be fastened to the
bench with clamps, and can be taken off after using. They are
made in different sizes. Here is one recipe: Three pails water;
twelve ounces yeast; eighteen ounces salt; three pounds sugar;
three pounds lard.
A good snowflake bread should have a fine white texture and
close grain. A good flavor can be had by using a very slack sponge,
but give it the second drop and take the dough young. Set a two-
pail sponge (10-quart pail) with the yeast when it reaches the sec-
ond drop, put on one pail water, salt, sugar and lard; make a med-
ium dough and work it smooth; run it through the rollers twenty
times; scale and mould without giving the dough much time to
prove in the trough. When the loaves are all panned, cut and
set to prove. Give not quite full proof and bake in a moderate heat.
When turning on steam give only enough to have the cut come
up smooth ; then finish baking without steam.
SNOWFLAKE BREAD WITH BUTTERMILK.
One pail of water; one pail buttermilk; six ounces yeast;
twelve ounces sugar; twelve ounces salt; one pound lard. Set a
medium firm sponge ; let it come to the first drop ; put on the butter-
milk, sugar, salt and lard, and make a smooth dough ; let it come
up half; run through the rollers from ten to fifteen times; scale
and mould in pans; prove and bake in 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
While the first snowflake bread is baked in long pans and cut when
it is moulded, the buttermilk bread is baked in the square box mould
and also under cover like the cream breads, and without steam.
24 Bakers' Bread.
SNOWFLAKE BREAD SANDWICH LOAF.
Set a warm sponge with two pails of water and eight ounces
of yeast; let get the second drop. The sponge may be set in the
evening and taken in the morning, or in about twelve hours. For
doughing add on the sponge one more pail of water, twenty-four
ounces of salt, and the same amount of sugar, two pounds of lard.
Make a firm dough and run through the roller fifteen to twenty
times; scale, mould and pan at once. Give medium proof and
bake in about 325 degrees Fah. This bread if baked under cover
or in Pullman pans makes an excellent sandwich loaf.
NEW ENGLAND BREAD.
This bread should come under the "home-made" breads,
but it is better known as the New England bread. In former
years larger quantities of cornmeal were used in this bread
than now, and it made a very heavy loaf. At the present
time only half of the amount is used in the same batch. The
scalded cornmeal increases the moisture and makes the bread
keep longer than the average wheat breads, without any shortening.
One pail of water (twelve quarts), three ounces of yeast,
eight ounces salt, three pounds white cornmeal, four ounces
sugar. Make a sponge with six quarts of water as usual; give
it a good drop; scald the cornmeal with two quarts of boiling
water; add the sugar and salt; thin the cornmeal with the
remaining four quarts of water, and pass through a sieve onto
the sponge. Break the sponge down fine and with more flour
make a smooth dough, not too stiff. Let the dough come up
once, scale and mould into loaves; give three quarter proof
and bake in a good heat. Both round and square tins are
used for this kind of bread.
This bread is known in the South under the name of
"mush bread." The process is the same, only a larger quantity
of scalded cornmeal is used in it.
NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH FERMENT.
Set a medium firm sponge with one pail of potato ferment;
give the sponge a good drop, and put on the sponge one pail
of water, three pounds of scalded cornmeal, one pound of lard,
one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of salt. Make rather
slack dough, but work it well; let it come up only once, then
scale and mould in pans, give three-quarters proof, and bake in
a good beat.
Home-Made Breads. 25
NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH.
Two gallons water ; one gallon milk ; eight ounces of yeast ; one
pound lard ; six ounces of sugar ; eight ounces of salt ; six pounds ot
cornmeal mush. Make a medium dough with the ingredients,
set at 75 degrees Fah. ; let it prove in the same temperature for four
hours; work it over and let it come up about half; mould up in
pans ; give three-quarters proof, and bake in 325 degrees Fah.
NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH SPONGE ( HOME-MADE BREAD).
Three gallons water ; three ounces of yeast ; eight ounces of salt ;
six ounces of lard; eight ounces of sugar; one and a half pounds
white cornmeal. Scald the cornmeal and make it into a soft mush.
Set sponge with two gallons of the water and yeast medium firm, at
75 degrees Fah. When the sponge is ready put on the other water
at the same temperature; add the cornmeal, sugar, salt and lard;
work the dough well; let it come up and work it over; give it a
little time to come on again; scale and mould into loaves; give
medium proof, and bake in a good heat.
OTHER PAN BREADS.
A variety of breads are often made out of one sponge. The
water, sugar and lard are added after the sponge is broken up and
so many dippers or pails are taken out for each kind. More sugar
and shortening is added for the richer breads. In this manner
graham bread, rye, Vienna and other hearth and pan breads can
be made in separate mixtures out of one sponge.
PAN BREADS WITH FERMENT.
For the sponge take one ten quart pail of good strong
ferment and two pails of water. For the dough take three
pails of water, three pounds of sugar, two pounds and ten
ounces of salt, two and one half pounds of lard. Set an
eight hour sponge at seventy-five degrees F., and have the
shop at the same temperature. The sponge will have the
second drop at the given temperature. Put on the sugar, salt
and lard, and break up the sponge; take out for the different
breads. Let the dough come up for one hour and scale and
mould up in loaves, prove and bake.
26 Bakers' Bread.
PAN BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST SPONGE
Two pails water, five ounces yeast, one pound salt, one-
half pound sugar, one half pound lard. Set the sponge at
eighty-five degrees F., with one pail of water and the yeast:
give it a good drop, and add one pail of water with the salt,
sugar and lard at seventy-five degrees, and mix the dough well.
Let it come up twice, scale and mould in pans; give good
proof, and bake in 350 degrees F.
POTATO BREAD.
Five ounces yeast, one half pail milk, one half pail water,
eight ounces salt, eight ounces sugar, eight ounces lard or but-
ter, one-half peck of boiled and mashed potatoes. Dissolve
the yeast in one quart of water and make a batter with the
sugar and some flour; let it stand for fifteen minutes and add
the other water; make into a medium sponge, let it come to
the drop. Thin up the potatoes with the milk; add the salt
and lard, and pass on the sponge; mix all well together, and
with more flour make a medium firm dough; let it come on;
scale and mould up very smooth; pan and bake in a baking
heat of 350 degrees F.
CREAM BREADS, OR MILK BREAD.
There are several kinds of cream breads and there is no diffi-
culty for a baker to make a first class cream loaf out of any kind
of milk bread or Vienna dough. The ordinary roll dough can also
be used for this kind of bread. The loaves are baked in the regular
square cream bread pans, made with a cover to fit for one and two
pound loaves. They are also known as Cream Toast Bread, and are
used in many restaurants for toast only, making a square slice which
requires no trimming, having a thin crust. One other kind, known
as the Vienna Cream loaf, is baked in round corrugated pans, of
four inches in diameter and from ten to twelve inches long. The
loaves weigh about one pound and eight ounces.
This bread has a good sale as a family bread. It makes nice
round sandwiches for picnics and parties. There is another way
of making cream breads which does not require a special pan and is
practiced in many bakeries. For this the regular pans can be used
although it is best to have the pans of a rather large size. The
loaf is molded up smooth like the regular pan loaf and placed on flat
roll pans, smooth side up, some distance apart; about six to eight
Home-Made Breads, 2J
loaves on one pan. They are covered with the regular baking tins
and given a little proof. The tins are lifted and the loaves are cut
either crosswise or in ribs like the corrugated loaves, the tins are
replaced, the loaves given nearly full proof and baked in a medium
hot oven. If a little more color is required the covers are taken
off when almost done, and the baking is finished without them.
Make a cornstarch wash, dissolving two ounces cornstarch in a
little cold water and stir this in one quart of boiling water; wash
the bread right at the oven door, put the loaves back in the oven
for a moment, just enough for the wash to dry. This gives the bread
a nice finish.
A variety of breads can be made by using round covers, or
adding more sugar and lard, also eggs, currants and sultana raisins.
I give a number of recipes for Cream Bread:
No. i. — Five quarts milk, 5 quarts water, 10 ounces sugar, 1
pound lard, 8 ounces yeast, 3 ounces salt. Make a thin batter with
the yeast, warm water and flour. Set to rise for twenty minutes;
put on the remaining water and milk; add the sugar, salt and lard.
Make a fine smooth dough; let it prove up well; work over and
make into loaves and set on pans; cover; let them prove further,
and cut the loaves. Cover again and finish proving and bake. Be-
fore the loaves are quite done take off the covers and finish baking
to give a nice color.
No. 2. — One pail of water, 1 pound of milk powder, 1 pound of
lard, 10 ounces sugar, 6 ounces yeast, 8 ounces salt. Set a slack
sponge with six quarts of water and the yeast. Dissolve the milk
powder in the other four quarts of water and add sugar and salt.
Put this on the sponge; when it gets the first drop break up the
sponge very fine, add the lard and make a medium firm dough. Let
it come up well and work down again ; let it come up again to about
half; scale and mold in pans; prove and bake.
No. 3. — Six quarts milk, 6 quarts water, 6 ounces compressed
yeast, 1-2 pound sugar, 6 ounces salt, 1 1-2 pounds lard. Dissolve
the yeast, put in the sugar and salt, rub the lard in the flour and
set the dough at 8o° F.; have the bakeshop about 750 F. Make
a nice smooth dough ; mix the dough well and pen it up close in the
trough; let it come up full and work it over; let it come up again
and work down once more; then scale and mould back; form in
loaves; prove and bake in a moderate oven.
Some other cream or milk breads are made with a tight dough,
and the dough is run through the rollers like the Snow Flake bread
28 Bakers* Bread.
to get a fine grain and cut like the other cream breads. The only
difference between cream and milk breads is in the treatment of
the doughs; most all the cream breads are put through the rollers
before molding, and baked in closed pans and under cover; this
makes a thin crusted bread. The average milk bread is made from
the same mixture but baked in open pans which produces a thicker
crust.
PULLMAN BREAD.
This bread is called Pullman bread because it is used to a
large extent on the dining cars and at many depots for sandwiches.
The Pullman pan is made in single and double pans with a tight-
fitting cover. The loaves weigh about two pounds and four ounces
in the dough, and the size of the pans is ten inches long, and four
and one-half inches square. This size of pan makes a large square
slice which is especially suited for sandwiches. A good Vienna
dough, and also the cream bread and snowflake mixtures, can be
used for this. The dough should be medium tight and go through
the rollers from ten to twelve times.
One pail of water, five ounces of yeast, two pounds of lard,
one and a half pounds of sugar, seven ounces of salt. Dissolve the
yeast in one quart of warm water and add sufficient flour to make
a soft batter, let the batter stand in a warm place for about twenty
minutes, then add the pail of water (at 80 to 85 degrees Fahr.) also
the sugar and salt and more flour, then add the lard and make the
dough medium firm. Let it come up and cut over twice, put through
the rollers twelve times and scale, pan and prove; bake in medium
heat of 350 degrees Fahr.
Hearth Baked Breads.
It is an established fact that breads baked on the hearth, on
a stone oven sole, have a better flavor and are superior to
breads baked on a metal surface or in tins. I think a better
home made bread can be made by baking it on the hearth, either
as a single loaf with a full crust, or as a double loaf like the
Cottage and Irish bread. This class of hearth baked breads
require a firmer dough and less proof and also a slacker oven
than the pan baked breads. They are baked without steam
and are not washed before or after baking.
The different breads can be made out of any of the home
made doughs, and also out of the Vienna dough, straight or with
a sponge, but the doughs should be made firmer.
COTTAGE BREAD AND SPLIT BREAD.
One pail ferment; one pail water; one pound lard; twelve
ounces sugar; twelve ounces salt. Set a sponge with ferment
and take it at the first drop; put on the water, sugar, salt and
lard, and make a firm dough. Let it come up and work over,
then scale and mold back. In New York, where the cottage
loaf is called "High Round," the loaves are scaled in two pieces
and at first are moulded round on the bench, and then they are
moulded the second time and both pieces are pressed together,
dusted with flour and set two by two in a long narrow box,
which is laid out with cloth. The cloth is drawn up between
each two, and they are set to prove. The oven is lined on the
sides with wood. The bread is put in, two loaves at one time,
close together, in a square shape. This requires practice and
dexterity. When the loaves are all in the oven other pieces of
wood are put in front of it to keep it in shape till baked.
The split loaves are made in two shapes. The Irish split
loaves are moulded in the shape of a pan loaf, then they are
dusted with flour and pressed long ways with a rolling-pin, like
the split rolls set with the split down in the box; the cloth is
(29)
30 Bakers* Bread.
pinched up between the loaves and they are set to prove. The
loaves are put in the oven like the cottage loaves, and are set
close together, ends and sides touching each other. The split
loaves, which are known as the French split, can be made out of
the same dough; they are moulded at first in the shape of the
Vienna loaf, set on the bench and given a little proof, then they
are pressed in with the rolling-pin. Bakers generally use only
flour, but for beginners I would advise to grease the split, and
use no flour; this would insure a better split. Set the loaves
split side down, draw up the cloths between the loaves, and
give three quarter proof. Bake the loaves like the French
bread, single, without their touching each other. All the hearth
baked breads should be brushed off at the bottom, after they are
baked, to remove any ashes or cinders which may have adhered
to them in the oven.
COTTAGE BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST.
One pail water; four ounces of yeast; five quarts milk; one
half pound sugar; one half pound lard; six ounces salt. Set a
slack sponge with the water and yeast as usual; when the
sponge reaches the drop, add the milk, sugar, salt and lard.
Make the dough medium firm; let it come up and work over;
let it spring on again; then scale and mould into loaves; prove
and bake. By using more yeast in this recipe, it can be used
for a straight dough. In this case work in the ingredients at
once.
FRENCH SPLIT BREAD.
Make a straight dough, rather firm, with one pail of ferment
and six ounces of salt; use no sugar or lard; let the dough
come up well and work over; give it a start; then scale and
mould on the bench; form into long loaves, in Vienna shape,
split, set in cloths, prove and bake.
A very nice French split is made in some Chicago bakeries
out of a Vienna mixture in which half milk is used.
DUTCH BREAD.
The Dutch loaves are made out of a good solid dough; it
can be made out of any of the straight or sponge doughs; it
should be well baked, and have a close grain and a good flavor.
While in some localities it is a single round loaf baked on the
hearth, in other places it is an oval flat loaf. It is also baked in
a single pan as the round box loaves.
Hearth-Baked Breads. 31
IRISH BREAD.
The Irish bread is also a bottom bread, and in Chicago
bakeries a good rich dough is used for it. It is baked in pairs;
two one pound loaves are set together, so they touch each
other slightly, and when put in the oven the loaves touch the
other loaves on the ends, but not on the sides.
IRISH BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH.
One pail water; five ounces yeast; one pound of sugar; one
pound of lard; six ounces of salt. Make a straight dough as
usual with the ingredients given. Make it medium firm; let it
come up and work over; let it come half, scale and mould into
loaves; set in the box in cloths; dust well with flour; bake with-
out washing, as directed in a slow heat of 325 degrees Fah.
POTATO BREAD.
One pail of water; six pounds of boiled and mashed pota-
toes; one half pound sugar; one half pound lard; four ounces
yeast; six ounces salt. This bread can be made straight as well
as with a sponge, only more yeast should be used for a straight
dough. The potatoes can be boiled with the jackets on, and
peeled and mashed or grated afterwards, or can be peeled before
boiling. Set a sponge with half the water and the yeast and
flour, not too slack. When it is ready, put on the potatoes the
other half of the water, sugar, lard, and salt; make a solid
dough; let it prove up once and work over; let come on, and
scale and mould into round loaves; mould up very smooth, set
in boxes which are dusted with flour, or on cloths; dust the
loaves also on top with flour; give good proof and bake single
on the hearth without washing, in a baking heat of 325 F.
This bread can be made from a larger, broken down sponge,
and adding potatoes and shortening for doughing.
POTATO BREAD WITH POTATO FLOUR.
For one pail of straight or sponge dough use from one to
two pounds of potato flour. The potato flour should be added
to the dough in form of starch; dissolve the potato flour in cold
water, and add gradually enough boiling water, stirring con-
stantly to form a soft paste without lumps; cool and add to the
dough.
TWIST BREAD.
The Twist should be classed with the Vienna breads. It is
made out of the Vienna dough, which is best adapted for this
32 Bakers' Bread.
bread. The Vienna and Bohemian bakers can make this bread
more perfectly and in more shapes than any other bakers. It is
baked in steam, like the Vienna; washed before baking, with and
without poppy seed sprinkled on the top. It is made in double
and single braids and also as a short Vienna loaf with a single
strand of dough on the top. The loaves weigh from one half
to two pounds, and require a cool treatment in the dough. The
twists are proved and then set in a cool place to stiffen up; be-
fore baking they are set in cloths like the Vienna breads,
No. i. — Two pails of water; ten ounces of yeast; one pail of
milk; one pound of sugar; one pound of lard; one pound of salt.
Set a slack sponge with two pails of water, the yeast and a
strong flour. Give the sponge a good drop; add the milk, sugar,
lard and salt; make a firm dough; let it come up well and work
over; let it come on and scale and mould into loaves; prove and
bake as directed.
No. 2. — One pail half water and half milk; one pound sugar;
one and one half pounds lard; six ounces of yeast; six ounces
salt. Make a good straight dough, rather light; let it come up
twice and work over; scale and make into twist as directed.
This mixture can be made still richer, for fancy twist, by the
addition of eggs and butter. The richer breads of this class are
baked on pans washed with egg wash, and often sprinkled with
chopped almonds and iced over with water icing.
Special Breads.
GRAHAM AND WHOLE WHEAT.
Many of the graham and whole wheat flours are made out of
the poorer grades of wheat, and often the best part of the wheat
is taken out by the millers; for this reason it is preferable to
use from one third to one half of a good grade of patent flour
with it to make good bread. All dark flours which contain more
or less bran prove more rapidly than the white flours; they re-
quire less yeast, and also less proof in baking. The addition of
molasses to some of these breads also accelerates the proving.
Some graham or brown breads are made without yeast, baking
powder or soda, and cream of tartar is used for raising, also
buttermilk or sour milk and soda, soda and molasses, and also
half sponge and soda and molasses, which makes a very nice
and moist loaf. If soda is used, it can be used only with sour
milk or with molasses which contains acid, and in the propor-
tions of half an ounce to the quart of molasses or sour milk.
Where only small quantities are made, a part of a broken-up
wheat flour sponge can be used, some molasses added and
graham flour used for doughing. When a separate sponge is
used, take half patent and half graham flour, or all patent flour
for sponge, and all graham flour for doughing. Molasses is
used in the proportion of one quart to the ten quart pail; while
the shortening is optional, the addition of lard makes a shorter
crust.
GRAHAM BREAD.
One pail water; two ounces yeast; one half pound salt; one
quart molasses; one pound of lard. Set the sponge as usual
with half of the liquid and the yeast; use half graham and half
patent flour; let it come to the drop; put on the other part of
the water, salt, molasses and lard, and with more graham flour
make a medium dough rather slack; let it come up half and
work over, scale and pan. Give about three quarter proof and
bake in a medium heat of 350 degrees R; wash with water or
brush with butter or lard after baking.
(33)
34 Bakers' Bread.
GRAHAM BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH.
One pail water; four ounces yeast; one pound lard; one
quart molasses; eight ounces salt. Mix one third of wheat flour
and two thirds of graham flour; rub in the lard; dissolve the
yeast in the water; add the molasses and salt; make a medium
dough, set at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. Let it come
up but not drop; work over; then scale, mould in pan, prove and
bake in a medium heat.
GRAHAM BREAD WITH SODA AND SPONGE.
Take one pail of broken-up sponge, with the salt in it, add
three pints of molasses, and one ounce of soda dissolved in
water; with more graham flour make a very slack dough. When
half mixed add one pound of soft lard and work the dough
very smooth. Fill in pans without moulding, set to prove, give
good half proof and bake in 350 degrees F. This dough should
be made like a drop cake batter, and if sour milk is used in this
mixture more soda should be used.
WHOLE WHEAT BREAD.
The whole wheat bread, or entire wheat, also the gluten
bread, often called "Health Bread," is made like the graham
bread, but less sweetening is used, and in some instances, when
used for dietetic purposes, both shortening and sweetening are
left out altogether.
One pail of water or half milk and water; four ounces of
yeast; one half pound of salt; one pound of lard; one pint of
molasses. Work the dough just like graham and give the same
proof. If a lighter color is preferred, use sugar in place of
molasses, one pound to the pail of dough.
WHOLE WHEAT BREAD WITH POTATOES.
One gallon half milk and half water; two ounces of yeast;
two ounces of salt; eight ounces of sugar; eight ounces of
lard; one pound of boiled and mashed potatoes. Grade or mash
the potatoes; use the water the potatoes are boiled in and half
milk to make a gallon; dissolve the yeast, add sugar and salt,
also the lard, and make a straight dough rather slack. Let it
come up once, then scale and mould in pans, prove and bake in
a good heat; wash over when done.
Special Breads. 35
BROWN BREADS.
ELECTRIC BROWN BREAD.
Twelve pounds of graham flour; twelve pounds of wheat
flour; one gallon of milk; one gallon of water; one pound of lard;
eight ounces of salt; one quart of molasses; one ounce of soda;
one pound of baking powder. Rub the lard in one part of the flour,
and mix the baking powder in the other part; mix together
and form a bay in the center of the flour. Dissolve the soda in
the water, also the salt, add the molasses and milk, and make a
nice smooth dough rather slack. Scale and pan at once; set in
a warm prover, let it come up half, and bake in a medium heat.
Brush over with water or lard after baking.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD.
Boston brown bread is made in several ways. It is raised
with yeast and also with soda and baking powder. The quantity
of molasses also varies very much, which makes a difference in
the quality. Lard or other shortening is not used in this bread.
It can be baked or steamed. If baked, the baking should be
done in a cool oven of about 200 to 250 degrees F. It is best
to set the moulds in a pan with about one to two inches of
water in it, to prevent browning too much on the bottom. In
some bakeries a tin box is used, a little higher than the brown
bread moulds, large enough to hold a dozen moulds, with a
tight fitting cover. The bread is set in, the box filled half full
with boiling water, the cover put on, and put in the bake oven
and the bread is steam-baked for three hours. About the time
the water is boiled off the bread is done.
YEAST RAISED BROWN BREAD.
Two pounds rye; one quart molasses; two pounds cornmeal;
three ounces salt; two pounds graham flour; two pounds wheat
flour; two ounces yeast. Make a soft sponge with the rye flour,
and one quart luke warm water, scald the cornmeal with one
quart of boiling water; let cool, and when the sponge is ready
mix in the molasses and salt and the other flour; use a little
milk and mix into a soft dough; divide into loaves. This mix-
ture makes about one dozen. Grease the molds, put in and let
rise to three quarter proof; bake or steam for three hours.
36 Bakers' Bread.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD WITH SODA.
One pound rye; two pounds cornmeal; one pound graham;
one quart molasses; one pound wheat flour; three pints milk;
two ounces salt; one ounce soda. Mix the flours together, dis-
solve the soda in the milk, make a bay and mix all the ingredi-
ents into a soft batter like drop cake, add more milk if needed,
fill in greased moulds, and bake or steam for three hours.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD WITH BAKING POWDER,
Two pounds cornmeal; one pound rye; one pound wheat
flour; one pound graham; two ounces salt; one pint molasses;
three ounces baking powder. Scald about half of the cornmeal
and let it cool. Mix the baking powder in the other flour, put
in salt and molasses, and with milk or water mix into a slack
batter; fill in well greased molds and steam or bake for three
hours.
Lately there have come into the market some ready-made
self-raising brown bread flours. The flour is mixed with even
quantities of milk or water and molasses into a soft batter like
the other brown breads, and steamed as usual. Stale cake
crumbs can be used up in brown breads. Raisins and currants
may be added for variety.
HEALTH BREADS.
One of the vegetarian fads is the nut breads. Gluten flour and
whole wheat flours, combined with ground nut meats, make an ideal
loaf, very nutritious and of fine flavor. Peanuts, walnuts and all
the other varieties are used for these breads. Walnuts, and hickory
nuts are best used raw, while a better flavor is obtained of peanuts if
they are slightly roasted. The nuts should be grated or chopped very
fine ; if crushed in a mortar or passed through rollers the nuts seem
to lose some of the oil or fat which they contain, and this causes loss
of flavor.
NUT HEALTH BREAD.
Four pounds of gluten flour or whole wheat flour; two pounds
patent flour ; three ounces yeast ; one pound of walnut meat, chopped
fine ; one-half pound of cocoanut butter ; four ounces sugar ; one
ounce salt; one quart water; one quart milk. Set a very slack
sponge with one quart water; yeast and the patent flour. When the
Special Breads. 37
sponge is ready add the sugar, salt and milk, and work into a
medium dough with the gluten flour. Use more water or milk if
required to make a nice, smooth dough. Add the softened cocoanut
butter and the nut meats. Let the dough come up and work over,
give a little time to come on again, scale and mould into loaves, bake
in oval or in the ordinary bread tins in a moderate heat.
NUT BREAD, NO. 2.
Six pounds of entire wheat flour; two pounds patent flour; two
ounces salt ; one pint New Orleans molasses ; three quarts of milk ;
two ounces of cream of tartar; one and one-quarter ounce soda.
The peanuts should be roasted and the brown skin rubbed off in a
sieve, or blanched like almonds in hot water, dried and roasted,
ground or chopped fine. Sift the cream of tartar in the patent flour,
mix both flours and the nuts together, dissolve the soda in the milk,
make a bay in the center of the flour, put in the molasses, salt and
milk, and mix into a slack dough ; mould into loaves, put in long nar-
row pans, and bake in a good heat of 350 degrees.
The same mixture may be raised with yeast, leaving the patent
flour out, take four pounds of white sponge, and thin up with milk
and work in the entire wheat flour and nut meat. Add one quarter
of an ounce of soda to the milk, to balance the acid in the molasses,
and, of course, leave out the cream of tartar and the other soda.
Prove and bake like the other breads.
OATEN BREADS.
Bread from oatmeal can be made after the same methods as the
graham breads, by adding a stronger patent flour. Oatmeal deterior-
ates with age, and acquires a bitter taste when it gets old. The meal
should be finely ground for this purpose. Some bakers prefer scald-
ing the meal to make it mellow. The rolled oats have also been
tried with success by soaking them some time before using. Like the
other breads which contain bran, it ferments much quicker than the
white bread, and for this reason a short fermentation gives the best
results in making this bread. A much better flavor is obtained by
using sugar or glucose instead of molasses, and if a part of the meal
is scalded it makes a very moist loaf. Too much scalding is apt ?o
make it heavy; and the fine ground meal is better used without
scalding.
OATEN BREAD, NO. I.
Four pounds patent flour; four pounds graham hour; tour
pounds oatmeal; two quarts water; two quarts milk; one-half
38 Bakers' Bread.
pound glucose or eight ounces sugar ; eight ounces lard ; two ounces
salt; two ounces yeast. Dissolve the yeast in the water, add the
glucose, and with the patent flour make a slack sponge. When the
sponge is ready, add the milk and salt, also the lard; work in the
graham and oatmeal and make a slack dough; add more milk or
water if required. Set away to prove up once and work over; scale
and mould into loaves; pan and give only medium proof. Bake in
a solid heat of 350 degrees. Brush over with butter or lard when
done.
OATEN BREAD, NO. 2.
Take ten pounds of white bread sponge; one quart milk; four
ounces sugar; four ounces lard; four pounds of oatmeal; one and
one-half ounce salt. Work the ingredients into the sponge to make
a smooth dough. Let it come up once ; scale and mould ; prove and
bake like the other breads.
CORN BREADS.
A variety of breads are made in the Southern states in which the
cornmeal is used in the form of mush; that is, the meal is scalded
with boiling water. These breads should be made of a medium
slack dough, treated cool and not given much proof in baking. The
mush makes the bread very moist, but it should not be sticky in
cutting, which happens if the dough is too slack, or it is not baked
enough. The bread is best if it is baked in a pan with a cover on,
and in a medium heated oven.
NEW ORLEANS CORN BREAD, YEAST-RAISED.
One pound white cornmeal; four ounces lard; three pounds
patent flour; one ounce yeast; two ounces molasses; one-half ounce
salt. Set a warm sponge with one pint of water, molasses and yeast
and a part of the white flour. Scald the meal with one pint of boil-
ing water into mush, and mix in the lard and salt ; let cool, and when
the sponge is ready put the mush and one pint of milk or water
on to it; make a medium dough; set it to rise; let it come up and
work over ; scale ; mould into loaves ; pan and give good half proof.
Bake in medium heat.
BUTTERMILK CORN BREAD.
Two pounds white cornmeal; six ounces lard; two pounds
white flour; one-half cup molasses; one-half ounce salt, one quart
of buttermilk ; four eggs ; one ounce of soda. Scald half of the
Special Breads. 39
cornmeal with one pint of boiling water; add the lard; dissolve the
soda in some water; thin up the scalded meal with the buttermilk;
add the eggs and flour, and make a slack dough like a tea biscuit
mixture ; shape into loaves. Set in pans and bake in a good heat.
The foregoing breads should not be confounded with the regular
family cornbread of the Southern states, which is not sold very often
in bakeries, because it is good only when fresh made and while warm.
I believe it could be made successful and find a ready sale in bakeries
which have a lunch trade, or are connected with restaurants. This
cornbread is delicious if eaten fresh, and everybody likes it. It can
be kept in a good condition in a moist heater for several hours and
sold with a good profit.
This cornbread is made different from the yeast-raised breads
named before, it contains no wheat flour and no sugar or other
sweetening, it is made from cornmeal only. It is often made with
sour milk and soda, and also with sweet milk and baking powder.
The sour milk is considered to make the best flavored bread. The
sweet milk and baking powder process is the most reliable to obtain
uniform results The white cornmeal is the best, because the yellow
meal often has got a bitter taste and is not liked for this bread.
The Southern people prefer the country-ground meal, which is very
coarse ground, with lots of bran in it, which is sifted out before
using. Beside the country meal are two other grades of meal which
are used, the plain medium-ground meal, and a very fine ground
meal called cream meal.
All the different kinds may be used with success. The coarse
meal requires more scalding than the fine ground meals, and this
matter needs the most attention to make this bread. Cornmeal
absorbs much water, and the mixture must be made very soft — as
thin as soup — and the baking should be done in a brisk heat. In-
sufficient scalding, slack heat and a too thick batter causes the bread
to crack on the top instead of having a smooth crust. The cornbread
bakes best in small square pans, about eight to ten inches square
and with a rim of one and one half inches high. Deep-layer cake
tins, and deep custard pie tins, are also very convenient for this
bread. By baking the bread in this way it can be cut in quarters or
sold whole.
SOUTHERN FAMILY CORN BREAD.
Four pounds white cornmeal; two quarts boiling water; three
pints milk or water; twelve ounces lard; one-half ounce salt; eight
eggs; four teaspoons baking powder. Put the meal into a dishpan
40 Bakers Bread.
or in the mixing bowl; make a bay on one side; take the boiling
water and scald about half of the meal; put on the lard and mix
in; also the salt and set aside to cool; when the mush is about luke-
warm thin it up with the milk; add the baking powder the last
thing, and beat it up well. Take a dipper and fill the mixture in the
well-greased pans; put in the hottest place in the oven at first, till
the top is formed and baking up even, then move to a cooler place to
finish baking. Cut each pan in quarters and split each piece through
the center while hot and spread fresh butter between. You will have
a cornbread fit for a king.
MISCELLANEOUS.
RICE BREAD.
Rice flour is used in bread in the same manner as the cornmeal ;
the flour should be not only scalded, it should be boiled into a starch.
Wet the flour with cold water into a paste and thin up with boiling
water, then return to the stove and boil for a minute to get clear. If
whole rice is used, take the rice and boil it till soft, then strain off
the water and rub through a sieve before using. For the shop there
is a better way and more convenient, that is to bake the rice; put
one pound of rice in a pan which holds about one gallon of water,
fill the pan nearly full of water, cover and set in one corner of the
oven. The rice will soften and get ready to pass through a sieve
in about one hour. One formula is given here:
Two quarts water; 2 ounces yeast; 3 pints milk; 2 ounces salt;
4 ounces sugar; 4 ounces lard; 1 pound of rice flour or whole rice.
Set a sponge .with the water, yeast and some strong flour; prepare
the rice and when the sponge is ready pass the rice on the sponge
through a sieve; add the milk, salt, sugar and lard, and with more
flour make a medium dough; let it come up and work over, let it
come on a little scale, pan and prove, and bake like the other breads
FANCY FRUIT BREAD.
Two quarts of milk ; 3 ounces of yeast ; 1 pound butter ; 1 pound
sugar; 5 whole eggs; 5 yolks; 1 pound sultana raisins; ]/2 pound
chopped almonds; Y2 pound citron; 1 ounce salt; lemon extract;
mace. Set a warm slack sponge with the milk, yeast and some
patent flour. When the sponge is ready add the sugar, butter, eggs,
salt and flour. Work this in the sponge with more flour and add
Special Breads. 41
the fruit. Let it prove up once; work it over and scale and mould
in bread or cake tins. Prove and bake in a medium heat. Ice with
a vanilla icing. The loaves may also be washed before baking with
an egg wash and sprinkled with almonds.
From the same mixture other fancy breads may be made by
leaving out the fruit and adding seeds to make a fancy seed bread
or cake.
SULTANA (SEEDLESS RAISIN ) BREAD.
One quart milk; 2 ounces yeast; 4 pounds flour; J4 lb- butter;
Y2 pound sugar; y2 ounce salt; 5 eggs; 1 pound sultanas, or seedless
raisins. Set a sponge with the milk, yeast and some flour; rub the
sugar, butter and eggs to a cream, and add to the sponge. When
ready, and with more flour make a medium dough and work in the
fruit. Let it prove up once and scale into pieces to sell at five or
ten cents each ; put in square or oval tins ; give good proof and bake
to a nice brown. Currants or nuts may be used and almonds
sprinkled in the tins before baking. Other fancy breads may be
made from plain bun and cake doughs, baked plain round on pans,
also in different shaped tins.
Another way is to bake them under covers like the cream breads
and score the tops in fancy pattern. The best grades are made rich,
like the French brioche mixtures, while the ordinary kinds may be
made from plain bread doughs with a small addition of fruit and
shortening.
CHEAP FRUIT BREAD.
Twenty-five pounds bread dough; 12 ozs. lard; 12 ozs. sugar; 3
pounds of raisins. Work the ingredients into the dough as usual,
and make up into loaves. Changes may be made by using currants
or sultanas, and adding eggs or some egg color, a cheap grade of
California raisins and chopped peel or cocoanut. This will also make
a hock dough for buns and coffee cake.
FRUIT BREAD WITH MOLASSES.
Ten pounds roll dough; 1 pint N. O. molasses; il/2 pounds cur-
rants or raisins.
COCOANUT BREAD.
Ten pounds sponge; 1% pounds sugar; 1 pound lard; impounds
cocoanut. Work the ingredients into the dough or sponge, adding
more flour to make a smooth dough. Scale in five or ten cent
42 Bakers' Bread.
pieces; mould round on pans or set in bread tins; wash over before
baking, and bake in a brick oven.
SOUTHERN FRUIT BREAD.
Set a sponge with i gallon of water and 3 ounces of yeast; or
bake 20 pounds of white sponge. When the sponge is ready work in
the following ingredients: 2 quarts molasses; 1 pound lard; 3
pounds currants or cheap raisins; 3 ounces salt; 2 ounces of allspice.
Add more flour to make a medium dough; let it prove up once and
work over; scale in pieces to sell at five cents each; mould round;
set in round bread tins and let prove up half ; give a cross cut ; wash
over and finish proving. Sprinkle on each loaf a little granulated
sugar in the center, and bake in a medium heat.
Another way is to divide each loaf into six pieces; mould in
ovals and set in long bread tins, or on pans and bake so they touch
in baking. They are sold the whole loaf for five cents and in single
pieces for six cents.
FRUIT BREADS WITH BAKING POWDER.
Six pounds of white flour ; 5 ounces baking powder ; 2 quarts of
milk and water; ]/2 ounce salt; 6 ounces sugar; 12 ounces butter
and lard; 6 eggs; 1 pound of fruit; a litttle lemon extract Take
half patent flour and half cake flour sift in the baking powder.
Cream the butter, sugar and eggs, add 3 pints of milk and mix in
the flour, then add the remaining pint of milk and the fruit; make
a smooth dough; mold into loaves; put in tins and set in a warm
prover to loosen up a little; then put in the oven and bake in a
medium heat.
SALT RISING BREAD.
One of the most important points to be looked after in making
salt-rising bread is heat. It must have heat from start to finish.
Have a good light prover; put a small gasoline stove in the bottom
of the prover, with tank on the outside, that will make it much
handier, as it can be filled at any time and will be perfectly safe from
fire. Put three ounces of fine cornmeal and one quarter teaspoonful
of soda in a quart bowl. Put one pint of milk and half a cup of water
in a basin and bring to a good sharp boil. Pour this on your meal
and soda — not too much at a time, stirring well all the time, so it
will not be lumpy; this will make a very thin batter. Now put your
Special Breads. 43
bowl in a box just large enough to hold it nicely. Cover it up well
with a bag and set it in a warm (not hot) place to rise. It will
take from twelve to fourteen hours. The oven plate is a good place
to set it to rise ; or if your oven is enclosed set it in the sand on top
of the oven. The heat must be just warm, but constant. When
your yeast is light take your dishpan, put in three or four pounds
of flour, pour your yeast on the flour, and stir in with a large spoon.
Now add two and one-half quarts hot water (not scalding) and
make a thick batter. Set this in the prover over the gasoline stove,
cover it over ; keep it good and warm, but don't get it hot enough to
scald. This will be ready in about one hour. When this sponge
is light add three ounces salt, four ounces sugar, lard to suit, two
and one-half quarts hot water and flour to make a firm dough.
Cover up; set back in prover, and let it get a good start in the
dough. This will take about twenty minutes or half hour. Throw
out on the bench, work well and pan at once. Place in prover ; cover
over with a cloth or bag; place a pan of hot water on the gasoline
stove, so the bread will get steam and keep moist. This bread must
not be proved as light as yeast bread. If overproved it will spoil
both the grain and flavor. It should never be proved light enough
to crack on top. The oven should bake it in twenty minutes. The
above will make twenty-five loaves. In warm weather the same
amount of yeast will work fifty loaves. Canaille or fine middlings
can be used in place of cornmeal, but it does not give the same
flavor. Care should be taken in the kind of milk you use. Milk
from one cow is best ; that is, milk that is not mixed, or from a new
milk cow. Now this is the arrangement I have made for working
large batches: Have the trough you are to use lined with galvan-
ized iron. Leave space of about three inches between the bottom
of the trough and the galvanized iron for steam. Now take a large
can (a lard can will do) and have the top soldered on tight; have
an arrangement on the top of your can that you can fasten a hose
to. Let the hose run from the can to the bottom of trough; have
also a coupling on the bottom of the trough to fasten the hose and a
hole through the bottom of trough for the steam to enter ; fill the can
part full of water and set it on your stove or furnace. When this
boils it will force steam under the sponge and dough and keep
them warm as required. Note that less heat is required for large
batches.
Vienna Breads.
To make a good Vienna bread it is necessary to have an oven
which holds steam. Some bakers have ovens specially built for
Vienna bread where the steam cannot escape. The steam forms a
coat of moisture on the loaf when it is put in the oven, gives the
dough time to expand and forms the fine glazed crust for which the
Vienna breads are known. Good milk bread recipes will make an
acceptable Vienna bread if given the proper treatment in the sponge
and dough. One-third part of milk is used for Vienna bread, but
many bakers use sugar and lard only; others leave out the milk
during the hot months for fear of getting sour bread.
VIENNA BREAD WITH A SHORT SPONGE
Two gallons water, i gallon milk, 4 ounces yeast, 6 ounces salt,
8 ounces sugar, 8 ounces lard. Dissolve the yeast in one pint of
warm water, and with some flour make a soft batter; set aside for
twenty minutes, and then add the two gallons of water and
more flour to make a slack sponge; beat it up well, and let it
get the first drop at a temperature of 75 degrees to 80 degrees
F. ; the sponge will be ready in two hours. Put on the milk
at the same temperature, with sugar, salt and lard, and work into a
smooth dough, medium firm. Let the dough come up well and work
it over; let it come on again; scale, mould and form into loaves.
The moulded loaves are set to prove in cloth-lined boxes which are
dusted with flour. The cloth is drawn up between the loaves to
prevent them touching each other. The loaves should be prevented
from getting a dry skin during the proving, because this would
cause a dull-looking crust in baking. Give good three-quarters
proof; put on the peel by means of a thin board on which the loaves
are turned over from the cloth, give three slanting cuts and bake on
the hearth.
The oven should be filled with steam before the loaves are put
in, and the steam should be kept at an even pressure. The shape
of the Vienna bread is well known. It is usually made in one-pound
(44)
Vienna Breads. 45
loaves. If the oven holds steam, the loaves are cut and put in
the oven without washing, and no washing is required when the
bread is baked. But if Vienna bread is baked without steam, it
is cut and washed with water as it goes into the oven and with
a thin cornstarch wash when it is baked. If a thin egg-wash is
used before baking, the bread requires no washing when baked.
Steam makes the best crust and produces a good bloom.
VIENNA BREAD WITH SPONGE WITHOUT MILK.
Three pails water, 18 ounces salt, 2 pounds of lard, 2 pounds of
sugar, 10 ounces yeast. Set a sponge with two pails of the water
at 8o° F. ; let it get a good drop, then add the other pail of water
at 750 F. or 8o° F. ; put in the sugar, salt and lard and make a
medium dough; let it come up and then scale and mould in box to
get a little more proof; then form into loaves; set in cloths; give
good proof; bake in a good solid heat.
VIENNA BREAD WITHOUT SUGAR OR LARD.
One pail water (10 quarts), 1 pail milk, 12 ounces salt, 12
ounces yeast. Dissolve the yeast ; have water and milk at a tempera-
ture of 750 to 8o° F. ; shop and flour at the same temperature;
add the salt to the water and make a medium firm dough. The
dough should be mixed very smooth and dry. It is best in mixing
to draw in one-half of the flour and work it in and then add the
rest of the flour required to give the right tightness to the dough.
To mix this way is a little more troublesome than taking the flour
all at one time, but assures a good dough. When the dough is
mixed pen it up ; it will be ready to be worked over in two hours ;
let it come up again ; scale and mould in boxes ; then form in loaves ;
set in cloths and prove; bake in a moderate heat, from 325° to 3500 F.
VIENNA BREAD, STRAIGHT DOUGH WITH FERMENT.
One pail ferment (10 quarts), 5 quarts of milk, 8 ounces sugar,
8 ounces lard. Make a medium firm dough with a good patent
flour and the ingredients given. Work it over twice and make into
loaves like the other Vienna breads.
rencn J3reads.
The breads made in France, especially in Paris, are different
from the American made article. They are dark in color, light
and flaky with a slight sourish taste; the loaves are long and
slender, the crust rather hard. In some parts of France there
is also a large round loaf, made more like the American half-rye
bread, but flat, and flour-dusted before baking. The long loaf
weighs about two pounds, while the round loaf weighs four
pounds and more. The French bread of today is not at all
genuine French; a large part of it is really a Vienna loaf, it is
made with the Vienna process, only in the large loaves the
milk is left out. The original French bread is raised with what
we would call a continued sponge. No yeast is used; only the
fancy breads are made with yeast. They used to consist of
brioche, a dough with plenty of eggs in it, and of which large
and small fancy rolls were made, and some other plainer rolls,
raised with barm or stock yeast.
About thirty years ago some Vienna bakeries were established
in Paris. As the fame of the Vienna breads spread over all
Europe, some good bakers were secured direct from Vienna, and
since this time the Vienna bread has gained in favor from
year to year. In some bakeries they make only bread, and make
the original French; others make both kinds, and also the fancy
breads, the "pain de luxe" as it is named. The old barm and stock
yeast has been gradually replaced by the stronger distillers' yeast.
I will give the recipe used in France, in the hope that some bakers
here will give it a trial on a small scale, and make a loaf of genuine
French bread. Instead of using yeast the start is made with a
piece of dough about three pounds, which is left for this purpose
from the day before. This leaven is called "levain du chef," or in
short "chef"; this is made fine in three quarts of water, and with
additional flour worked into a medium fine sponge. In a couple
of hours this is ready. As soon as it begins to drop, with six more
quarts of water the sponge is broken fine, and more flour added.
(46)
French Breads. 47
This sponge should be worked good and smooth, and a little
slacker than the first sponge. This is the "levain premiere."
While this is raising, the oven is heated, and when the sponge be-
gins to drop from twelve to twenty-four quarts of water with the
usual amount of salt (from six to eight ounces to twelve quarts)
is put on the sponge, the sponge broken fine and worked into a
good smooth dough. One-third of this dough is put aside and
panned up. This is the second sponge for the next batch of
bread. The remaining dough, after letting it come up for about
ten minutes (given a start), is scaled right out of the trough,
molded into loaves at once, put into long cloth lined baskets, the
shape of the loaf. It is given about three-quarters proof. The
oven has been swabbed out by this time, the loaf is turned upside
down onto the peel, given three or four slanting cuts, put in the
oven onto the hearth, and baked to a nice light brown color.
As the French flours are mostly winter wheat flours, and per-
haps stronger than the American soft winter wheats, I would ad-
vise the use of one part spring and two parts of winter for a trial.
The weaker flours would require a younger treatment of the
sponges, not too warm, and the dough should not lay too long, say
from ten to fifteen minutes — no more. The old dough used for the
start, should either be put in a pail and one quart of cold water put
on or more flour worked into it and rolled up into a cloth, well
floured, to keep it from getting too sour. As we do not have the
baskets it will do just as well to set the moulded loaves in cloth
lined boxes, like the Vienna, and pinch the cloth up between the
loaves. It is my belief that a loaf made with compressed yeast
with a soft sponge, or a straight dough will make a more palatable
bread, but it is well to give the recipe a trial.
CHICAGO FRENCH BREAD.
Make a sponge as usual with six ounces of compressed yeast
and three gallons of water at a temperature of 75 degrees F. Let
this sponge get ready to the drop, dissolve eighteen ounces of salt
and twelve ounces of sugar in three gallons of water at the same
temperature, and make a good medium firm dough; let it come up
to double size; work down again and let it come up half; then it
is ready to be scaled and molded into loaves. Set the molded loaves
into cloth-lined boxes, dusted slightly with flour, smooth side down
like the Vienna breads ; give about three-quarter proof, turn smooth
side up onto the peel, give from six to eight slanting cuts, wash
48 Bakers' Bread.
with water and bake on the hearth in a baking heat of about 450
degrees F. Wash again with water or cornstarch wash before
withdrawing from the oven when baked. Many bakers do not make
a special dough for the French bread. They use either the Vienna
or the other pan bread doughs for this purpose.
NEW YORK FRENCH BREAD.
While in the western part of this country only the long, slender
loaves are known as French bread in the Eastern States, and espe-
cially so in New York, the French bakers make several kinds — two
kinds of long loaves (jocos), which sell at five and ten cents, and
the long split loaf. The large long loaves are more than two feet
long, and the split loaves about eighteen inches long. They weigh
two pounds, one and one-half pounds and one pound. In New
York city some of the French bakers are making their own stock
yeast and others use compressed yeast to stock the ferment with.
In most places a sponge is set with ferment and very few are using
straight doughs. This is the recipe:
With one twelve-quart pail of good strong ferment set a me-
dium sponge at 75 degrees F. This sponge will be ready in about
three hours and begin to drop ; to this sponge add one pail of water
at the same temperature, with twenty ounces of salt dissolved in
it; break the sponge very fine and make a medium dough, rather
slack than tight, but work it well. Put it up close in the trough and
let it come up for one hour, then scale and mold into the box, and
when all have been scaled, begin to mold into loaves set in cloth,
the smooth side down. Pinch up the cloths between, and when
proved put onto the peel; wash with water, give four or five cuts
and bake on the hearth. Wash again when baked.
The split loaves are made out of the same dough. They weigh
one and one-half pounds, and sell at eight cents. After the loaves
are scaled and molded round in the box or on the bench they are
formed into long loaves, Vienna shape. Some flour is dusted on
the bench and the loaves are set aside till all are molded. They
are then slightly dusted with flour and some baker's grease, then
with lard, and, commencing on the first ones molded, they are
pressed along the center with a rolling pin about two feet long and
about two and one-half inches in diameter, just like the split rolls.
Then they are set in cloths, split side down, and finished proving.
They are given about three-quarters proof, turned split side up
onto the peel, put into the oven and baked without washing. This
French Breads. 49
makes a nice light and crusty loaf, which is preferred by many be-
cause the crust is more brittle, not being washed.
Some of the French bakers use the same process of sponging
and doughing like in the description given above, but add to the
dough a piece of dough left from the previous batch, say from six
to ten pounds, for the purpose of giving age to the dough in a
shorter time. French breads should be baked not only till done,
but baked till the crust is hard and crisp. Plenty of crust is one of
the essentials of a good French bread.
Another kind of bread which is well liked in restaurants and
hotels and is also named French bread, but which is more of Italian
origin, is made with a very soft sponge and dough. The usual
quantities of yeast and salt are used, a very slack sponge is set, and
the dough is made very soft, so soft that it seems almost impossible
for bakers not used to it to handle it. The dough should be worked
thoroughly till it comes off the hands, given time to prove up once
then it is scaled and molded into one-pound loaves, long and nar-
row like the French breads. The loaves are set in heavy floured
cloths, pinched up like the Vienna, and flour is dusted on the tops
to prevent sticking to the cloths. The loaves are given good proof,
turned onto the peel and baked on the hearth without washing.
In old recipes for French bread no milk or sugar and lard is
used; but lately the tough-crusted, all-water breads are more and
more giving way to the short-crusted breads which find more favor
with the public. Some bakers make the French breads out of the
Vienna dough only in the shape of the long narrow French loaves.
The bread is baked in steam, like the Vienna, only more crust is
given in baking. French bread is made in one and two pound
loaves. The pound loaves are made about twelve inches long and
three inches in diameter and given four cuts before baking; and the
two-pound loaves are about two feet long with from six to eight
cuts. In many bakeries the French breads are baked in steam, like
the Vienna breads, but with a thick crust. For the split loaves it
is better to have the dough a little older than for the long loaves.
French Bread No. 1.— One pail water, 1 pail milk, 8 ounces
yeast, l/2 pound sugar, y2 pound salt. Set a sponge with the water,
sugar and yeast; let it drop and then add the milk and salt; make
a medium firm dough, and work it well; let the dough come up
full and work over; give it a good start and mold into loaves, prove
and bake.
50 Bakers' Bread.
French Bread No. 2.— Two pails water, 24 pound of yeast, 1
pound sugar, 1 pound salt. Set a medium sponge at 8o° F., with one
pail of water and the yeast. When the sponge is ready put on the
sugar and salt and make a slack dough. Beat the dough well in,
mixing, but have it on the slack side; let it come on once, throw
out and scale in one pound loaves; make them long and narrow
like the other French loaves. Set the molded loaves in very heavy
dusted cloths; draw up and dust on top; give three-quarter proof;
put on the peel without washing or cutting the loaves, and bake
very crisp in a good heat. This is not a regular French bread, but it
is a specialty in some Chicago hotels. It does not look very nice,
but it is very good to eat.
FRENCH BREAD WITH FERMENT, WITHOUT SUGAR OR LARD.
One pail of ferment, 1 pail of water, 10 ounces salt. Set a
medium sponge at 750 F, give a good drop, then add the other pail
of water at the same temperature ; add the salt ; have the flour and
shop also at 750 F. or 8o° F. ; make the dough medium tight, so
that it molds well ; let the dough come up well ; work it over and
give it a little time to prove ; scale and mold into loaves ; give good
proof before baking, and bake in good heat, from 3500 F. to 4000 F.
FRENCH BREAD WITH A SHORT SPONGE WITH COMPRESSED YEAST.
One pail of water, 2 quarts milk, 1 pound lard, 8 ounces yeast,
6 ounces salt, 4 ounces sugar. Make a very slack sponge (luke
warm) with the water, sugar and yeast; beat the sponge up well
and let it rise. It will come to the drop in about two hours. Then
put on the milk and salt, add the lard and work in enough flour to
make a medium dough ; work it well till it comes off the hands ; let
it rest for half an hour, then scale and mold into loaves, prove and
bake
Rye Breads.
There is a large consumption of rye bread in America, and the
demand is increasing from day to day; but very little is said in
journals devoted to the baking trade about rye flour or rye bread,
and its value in nutriment and edibility in comparison with wheat
flour and wheat bread. Many claim the acid it contains is an aid
to digestion, and it is in consequence healthier than wheaten bread
raised with yeast.
In Germany, Austria, a part of Russia and some other coun-
tries, rye bread takes the place of our wheaten bread as the staff
of life. It is not always pure rye bread, as in many places the darker
grades of wheat flour are used in blending, to give more strength
to the weaker rye flours. The best rye breads are made in Southern
Germany, Bohemia and Austria, and the breads are raised with
sour dough. The methods differ in almost every city. At Vienna
the rye bread is made about as follows : In a large round tub about
three feet high by four feet diameter, a soft sponge is made with
three pails of water and half a pail of liquid sour dough ; the flour
is worked in by means of a long wooden paddle. This is fermented
for about two hours, then one more pail of water is stirred in with
one pound of salt and from six to eight ounces crushed caraway
seed and fennel. The sides of the tub are scraped down and the
contents are put into the trough and worked with more flour to
a medium stiff dough. The dough is given a little time to prove,
then is scaled, molded in round loaves, put in shallow wicker baskets,
face down, proved, turned over on the peel, washed before putting
in the oven, and baked. The use of these baskets admits of a softer
dough being used, and it makes a lighter loaf. In southern Ger-
many, also in Austria and Bohemia, a shallow basket is used, with
a firmer dough, and in some parts the bread is molded and put on
a heavy floured board, washed over several times, till it is ready
to put into the oven.
Further north, in Leipsic, Saxony, a rye bread is made with a
full soft sponge and very little or no salt at all. At first a sponge
52 Bakers' Bread.
is made of one pail of water and about ten pounds of sour dough;
this is called "grundsaur." When this is ready three more pails of
tvater are put on and with more flour worked into a soft sponge
tailed "vollsauer." This sponge when it is up even is made into a
medium dough (for the smaller loaves a softer dough is used than
for the larger ones). The dough is scaled, molded and put in round
or long baskets, deeper than the ones used in Vienna. The loaves
weigh from one to ten pounds ; the two, four and six pound loaves
are mostly in demand. The baskets and also the peels used for put-
ting the bread into the oven are of different sizes, according to the
loaves. When it has proved, the baskets are taken to the oven,
turned upside down on the peel with a slight knock, the loaves are
washed with water, the initials of the baker and the weight stamped
on and baked.
In some cities there is a local bread law, the price of the bread
is regulated by the city council according to the price of flour; the
bread is sold by the pound. The bakeries are visited by inspectors
and the loaves are weighed from time to time, to enforce this law.
Two grades of rye bread are sold in most of the places ; the differ-
ence is from one to two pfennig per pound (the pfennig is a fourth
of a cent).
At Hamburg and Bremen several kinds of rye bread are made:
First, the coarse rye bread here called "pumpernickel," then the half
fine bread and fine bread. The pumpernickel is made from rye meal
with all the bran in it, and the fine and half fine bread of the bolted
rye flour. The pumpernickel is raised with sour dough, while the
others are raised with a little of the sour dough and compressed yeast
Generally only two batches of bread are baked in one day in most of
the bakeries, first the fine and half fine bread and then the pumper-
nickel. Peat is used for fuel. In the evening the oven is filled with
the quantity required for heating and the sponge is set to be ready
in the morning. The fire is lit in the morning and the doughs are
made.
As the process the molded loaf has to go through before it is
baked is very peculiar, and is only used in North Germany, it will be
of interest to give a description of it. The process is called "cassel-
ing" or "gerstling." After the dough is scaled the burning coals are
drawn to the forepart of the oven and divided on both sides about
two feet apart in two long heaps. Two boards, about eight feet
long, ten inches wide and one inch thick are brought into use, the
wet cassel and the dry cassel; one is kept in water in a long, nar-
Rye Breads. 53
row trough, the other is dry. The bakers begin molding, and one
puts the loaves, after being washed, on the wet board. When the
board is filled it is pushed into the oven between the two fires, the
heat forms a thin, elastic skin and small blisters, then the board is
drawn out, the loaves taken off and put with the upper dry side
down on the dry board, pushed back in the oven, and as soon as
evenly blistered taken out and put on other boards to finish proving.
The round loaves are cut across and the long loaves slightly on the
sides. This process is continued till all the bread is molded. When
the loaves have proved the fire is withdrawn and the bread baked.
This treatment keeps the loaves in shape, prevents breaking, and in
baking gives a lighter color to the crust, and as all the long loaves
are put close together in the oven, in brick shape, it prevents them
from adhering too much.
All German rye breads are raised with a leaven called sour
dough ; that is a piece of sour dough is kept over from the previous
batch, to start the next. Sour dough has to be treated as carefully
as stock yeast and ferment to prevent it from getting too old,
because after the sour dough has reached its maturity and fermenta-
tion is not checked it gets putrid, loses strength, and makes bad
bread. If rye bread is not made every day it is best to keep the sour
dough covered with water in a cool place, or freshen it up with
more flour and water to keep it in good condition. In Germany
bakers sell sour dough to the public just as yeast is sold here.
All rye breads are hearth baked, and bakers not used to handle
rye flour often fail to turn out a good bread because they work it
like wheat flours. Rye flour is a weak flour and has not the strength
of the wheat flours, it should be treated cooler, given less proof, and
it requires also a stronger, quicker heat for baking; for this reason
rye bread is always baked in the first heat before the other breads.
When a rye dough is made it should be given just enough time to
spring on ; that is, when it begins to show life again, then it should
be scaled, molded and given about half the proof that is given to
wheat breads. Some rye flours contain the darker grades of wheat
flour, and of course stand more proof.
Many bakers prick the rye bread before putting in the oven with
a piece of wood like a pencil, others punch a hole in the center with
the finger; this is to prevent blistering in the quick heat, and also
to prevent breaking out on the sides, which a cool, young dough,
exposed to a quick heat, often does. An old German baker's proverb
says : "Kalt und weich macht den backer reich, warm und trocken
54 Bakers' Bread.
bringt ihn auf die socken." That means in plain English : "A cool
and soft dough makes the baker rich, but a warm and dry dough
makes him poor." This old saying holds good yet, and if followed
will bring money in any baker's pocket.
There is no more difficulty in the making of rye bread than
there is in the making of any of the breads made out of wheat flour,
and any good baker can make it after several trials, if close attention
is paid to the recipes given. There is a great difference in the rye
flours ; no two of the brands are alike, and for this reason they work
differently. Bread made out of all rye, and with sour dough only,
is almost too heavy for the American taste. The addition of wheat
flour, and only a small quantity of sour dough with compressed
yeast or ferment, makes a lighter and larger loaf which finds more
favor and sells better. For this reason I think it is the best way
to make rye bread. Many bakers make several kinds of rye breads,
full rye bread and half rye bread, rye bread with and without cara-
way seed. For the half rye bread, which is made without sour
dough, and often without seeds, a sponge is set with wheat flour and
yeast, and rye flour is used for doughing. It is baked in the shape of
the Vienna loaf. The full rye bread is raised with yeast to which
some sour dough has been added. There are some people who do
not like caraway seed, and for this reason some bakers add it only
to a part of the dough, or put it in during the molding process. This
gives a choice to the consumer.
Rye bread is made in round and in long loaves. The long
loaves are often drawn in cloths and set in boxes, smooth side down,
like the Vienna breads and washed on the peel before putting in
the oven. The round loaves are set in heavy floured boxes smooth
side up, and washed before baking. The rye breads are baked in the
first heat before the rolls and other small goods.
SOUR DOUGH FOR RYE BREADS.
Only a small quantity of sour dough is required, and it can be
made for a start out of a piece of yeast-raised dough — rye bread
dough if possible. Take three pounds of old dough, dissolve in one
quart of water, add a little more rye flour, and make a luke warm
sponge. Let this stand till the next day, and use it for the first
batch with some compressed yeast. Every day keep a piece of the
rye dough back to use for a starter for the next day's batch.
Rye Breads. 55
RYE BREAD WITH SOUR DOUGH.
One gallon water, 3 pounds of sour dough. Set a sponge with
the water and sour dough, and use a good rye flour. Set it at a
temperature of 650 F. to 700 F. ; let this come to the drop, and put
on 6 gallons of water and 12 ounces of salt. Make a medium firm
dough with three-fourths rye flour and one-fourth of wheat flour.
Let the dough rest until it begins to show life again ; then scale and
mold into loaves. Give good half proof, and bake in a good heat
of 4000 F. to 4500 F. Do not set the loaves too close together in
the oven till they are baked up well ; then move closer together and
finish baking.
RYE BREAD WITH SOUR DOUGH AND YEAST.
Two pails of water, 2 ounces yeast, 3 pounds of sour dough, 1
pound of salt, 1 ounce carraway seed. Set a sponge with one pail
of water, the yeast and sour dough. When the sponge begins to
drop put on the other pail of water with the salt dissolved in it,
add the carraway seed, and make a rather firm dough (rye dough
always loses some of its tightness) ; work it well and let it come on
a little, then scale, mold into loaves and bake in a good heat. While
rye breads are best baked on the hearth, bakers who have shelf
ovens can use roll pans dusted with a mixture of flour and corn-
meal to bake rye bread cm.
RYE BREAD WITH A STRAIGHT DOUGH.
One pail water, 3 pounds sour dough, 2 ounces yeast, 8 ounces
salt, 1 ounce carraway seed. Dissolve the sour dough and the yeast
in the water; add the salt and seed. Have the water at 650 F. ; take
two-thirds of rye flour and one-third of wheat flour. Make a firm
dough and work it well; let it double in size; work over and scale
and mold into loaves.
BOHEMIAN RYE BREAD.
For the Sponge: Six pounds of old rye dough, two gallons of
water, sixteen pounds of rye flour. For the Dough: Six gallons of
water, twenty ounces of salt. Set a slack sponge by dissolving the
sour dough in two gallons of water and adding the sixteen pounds
of rye flour. When the sponge has got a good drop, put on the six
gallons of water and the salt, and make a medium firm dough; let
this dough come on about half, and work it over; let it come on
again for fifteen minutes and scale and mould into loaves. Some
56 Bakers' Bread.
wheat flour is used in all these rye breads to give strength to the
dough. Some of the Bohemian bakers use sour dough and yeast
with the sponge, and in New York they use a part of the previous
batch to make the next dough out of it.
RYE BREAD WITH SUGAR AND LARD.
One pail of water, six ounces of lard, four ounces of sugar, six
ounces of salt. Make a straight dough with the ingredients given,
like a wheat bread dough; let it come up to double its size; work
over and let it come to; then scale and mould into loaves. Use
from one third to one half of wheat flour in the mixture and bake
like Vienna bread.
HALF RYE BREAD.
One pail of water, three ounces of yeast, eight ounces of
salt, one ounce caraway seed. Set a sponge at 75 degrees F.
with half a pail of water and the yeast; use wheat flour for the
sponge and rye flour for the doughing. When the sponge is
ready add the other half pail of water, the salt and caraway
seed. Make a medium firm dough; let it come up half, work
down and scale and mould into loaves.
Half rye bread is made in the shape of the Vienna bread,
only not so much pointed at the ends, but can be formed into
round loaves, if desired. When the long loaves are proved they
are washed on the peel with water, a straight cut is given on
each end, and then they are put in the oven. When baked they are
washed again with water, or with a cornstarch wash.
There is another way of making the half rye bread which saves
the making of an extra sponge. Many bakers set one large sponge
for several kinds of wheat bread ; when the sponge is broken up
the desired quantity is taken out, and by adding rye flour for
doughing, it makes a good half rye bread. Sour dough can be
used in the broken sponge and more water added. This makes a
still better rye bread.
HALF RYE BREAD WITH MOLASSES.
Some bakers find a good sale for a sweet half rye bread and the
recipe is well worth a trial. Take from a white bread sponge, or
set a sponge with yeast and wheat flour as usual for wheat bread.
Use rye flour for doughing. For each pail take eight ounces of
salt and one and one-half pint of N. O. molasses or one and one-
half pounds of brown sugar. Prove and bake just like the other half
Rye Breads. 57
rye. When the loaves are baked and while hot brush the top over
with lard, which makes a nice soft crust. Sour dough and also
caraway seed may be added to this dough the same as for the
other rye breads.
PUMPERNICKEL.
The coarse rye bread which is here known under the above
name is raised with leaven or sour dough. It is made from the rye
meal with all the bran in it, and often the darker grades of wheat
are blended with the rye meal to give more strength to the weaker
rye flour. The stone-milled meal makes a better bread than the
rye meal which is made by the roller process, and should be used
for this bread if it can be had. The addition of bran to the rye
meal makes an inferior bread, and I would not advise its use, al-
though it is used in some bakeries. The best bread is made with a
pure rye meal and one fourth or fifth part of wheat flour; it makes
a lighter and more palatable bread.
The home of the genuine pumpernickel is Westphalia, a part
of Prussia, and in some places an addition of molasses is used to
sweeten the bread. The loaves are made very large, from ten to
twenty-five pounds and more; the bread is sold in slices and by
weight. In small country towns one often meets boys with a hand-
cart taking one big loaf to the baker or bringing the baked loaf
home. The bread is put in the oven in the evening and taken out
in the morning. Westphalia ham and pumpernickel are a well-
known delicacy in Germany, which have found their way into
some of our best American hotels.
In North Germany this bread goes through the process of
"casselling." After it is moulded the loaves are washed and put
on a long iron "cassel," which consists of a long piece of sheet
iron, six feet long, eight inches wide, and one fourth of an inch
thick, with a wooden handle of two feet attached. The ovens are
heated on the inside, and the coals are drawn to the front and
divided into two long heaps about two feet apart. The iron cassel
is pushed in between the two fires; when it has reached a certain
degree of heat it is pulled out and the moulded loaves are put on
about six at one time, washed and pushed in the oven. The heat
forms a thin elastic skin and little blisters; then the loaves are
taken off and set on boards to finish proving. This treatment keeps
the loaves in shape, prevents bursting, and gives a lighter color to
the crust in baking and gives also a different taste to the baked
58 Bakers' Bread.
loaf. It also prevents the loaves from adhering too much. This
treatment is not practiced here to my knowledge, because it is too
troublesome and not enough of this bread is baked by many bakers
to make it pay. For this reason bakers generally mould the bread,
give it half proof and wash and bake it like the other rye breads,
only set close together in brick shape.
I would advise bakers, in making this bread, to try a different
way to form a thin crust on the moulded bread before proving; I
know it will make a better bread and any baker who uses a furnace
oven can do this without much trouble. For this process the flash
heat of the oven can be utilized. Have the pumpernickel dough
ready for moulding, and scaled off about fifteen minutes before
the oven is ready to be shut down. Begin moulding up the loaves
at once. In fifteen minutes they are moulded , and the oven is shut
The oven heat at this time is from 550 degrees F. to 600 degrees F.
"Swab" and clean out the oven; wash over the loaves; put them
on the peel and fill the oven as quickly as possible. The flash heat
forms the thin crust and the loaves are withdrawn and set aside
to finish proving. If the crust should get a little too crisp the
loaves can be washed over, which will soften it again. While prov-
ing the oven should be cleaned, and lined on the sides with pieces
of wood cut to fit, and then the bread is put in. The loaves are
pressed in shape, and slightly greased on one side to prevent stick-
ing. When the bread is taken from the oven it is washed with
water.
Where only a small quantity of pumpernickel is made, the
loaves can be set in a baking pan, with a wooden frame in it and
baked in this manner. I give two recipes:
No. 1. — For Sponge: Three pounds of sour dough, two gallons
of water. For Dough: Six gallons of water, eight ounces of salt,
one ounce of caraway seed. Set a sour dough with three pounds
of old rye dough and two gallons of water and rye meal, in the
evening. In the morning put on the six gallons of water and salt;
add the caraway seed and make a firm dough with more rye meal,
to which some wheat flour has been added. Let the dough rest
till it shows life again, then scale, and when it is all scaled, begin
moulding. In Germany the loaves weigh from two to ten pounds
and even more. Here, only two pound loaves are made.
No. 2. — Like the other rye breads, pumpernickel can be made
out of a yeast raised sponge Tphich has been broken up. Some sour
Rye Breads. 59
dough is added, and rye meal is used for doughing. One gallon
broken sponge, one gallon water, three pounds old rye dough, four
ounces salt, caraway seed. Dissolve the rye dough in the water;
add it to the broken sponge, also the salt and caraway seed, and
make a firm dough with rye meal. Prove and bake as directed in
the other recipe. The caraway seed is only optional, and can be
left out if so desired.
Individual Breads and Rolls,
Bakers are often called upon to furnish a special bread for
parties, banquets or small family dinners. While the ordinary Vienna
or French bread is frequently used, the best caterers prefer to serve
a small individual loaf or roll to each person. This is an old
custom brought from Europe, where it has been in use for many
years. The largest individual loaf is made in the shape of the Vienna
or French loaf, weighs about seven ounces in the dough, just long
enough to fit exactly the oval silver tray in which it is served. The
smallest loaf is not more than two inches long and weighs one half
ounce. It is used to serve with soups like consomme or boullion.
As these breads are made to suit the fancy of the dinner-givers or
caterers, they differ considerably in size, weight and quality.
The small loaf or roll most in use is made six to seven inches
long, cut and pointed like the Vienna, weighs about four ounces in
the dough. Another is made of all milk dough, but like the French
loaf, with rounded ends, given two cross cuts like the flutes, or one
long cut from end to end in the center, which makes it look like
a split loaf. The next is a round loaf made from Vienna dough and
weighs from three to four ounces, it is given a cut in the center
before baking.
These breads are baked in steam and on the hearth like the Vi-
enna bread, and should have a good crust. They can also be baked on
dusted or lightly greased pans without steam ; but in this case should
be washed with a light egg-wash before baking. If baked on the
hearth they should be proved in cloths like the French and Vienna
breads. A good Vienna dough is considered the best for these
breads; only in case a very crisp and hard-crusted bread is wanted
it is preferable to use a water dough. For light luncheons, teas and
receptions, where no heavy dishes are served, a special light and rich
bread is served (something like the French brioche), with plenty
of eggs and butter in it, in fancy shapes like twist, crescent and
fingers.
(60)
Small Breads. 61
There are other breads whch are used at dinners, like pulled
bread, soup sticks and cheese sticks, cheese straws and French flutes
or finger rolls. The caterers charge twenty cents per dozen for the
cheese and soup sticks and finger rolls, and more for the other fancy
breads, so there is a good profit in these small breads.
All these small fancy breads should be made neat and attractive
in appearance, the soup sticks and cheese strips small and dainty.
Better have them too small than too large. They are often tied in
bunches of one dozen, with a blue or pink ribbon and put into the
show window.
FRENCH BRIOCHE.
One pint milk; two ounces of yeast; eight to twelve eggs; one
pound of washed out butter ; one ounce sugar ; a pinch of salt. Set
a sponge with the milk and the yeast. When this sponge is ready,
break in the eggs, and add the sugar and salt. Work this in first
and add more flour, then all the butter; make a smooth dough, let
it rise and work over several times and set cool to stiffen up. When
the dough has rested for some time it is ready to be moulded into
the desired shapes, either in round rolls or in long finger-shape.
One of these rolls is made in the shape of the Vienna, but cut with
scissors in zig-zag from point to point. The regular French Brioche
is made in the shape of the cottage loaf, large flat bottom and small
top, and cut on the sides. These rolls are baked on pans and washed
with a good egg wash before baking.
PULLED BREAD.
The original pulled bread is made by taking the inside out of a
fresh baked loaf, and pulling it apart by means of two forks in large
flakes, which are toasted in the oven to a light brown crisp. As this
is not very convenient to serve in this way, another method
is used: A fresh loaf is cut w5th a sharp knfe into slices
about one inch or more in thickness. The crust is trimmed off, and
the slices are cut into strips one inch thick, loosened lightly with
a fork and toasted on a pan in the oven. This toast is served with
cheese at dinners, and is also used for invalids. It should be toasted
very dry, without any soft crumb inside.
BREAD STICKS.
Bread sticks or soup sticks are used in place of crackers, to be
eaten with soups. They are made from the Vienna dough, and alsa
from common roll dough, with a good shortening, but with very
62 Bakers* Bread.
little sugar in it. The dough when ready should be put in a cool
place to stiffen up and to lose some of its springiness. It is easier
moulded and keeps its shape better when cold. The dough is then
broken in small pieces and formed in long strips of the length and
thickness of a lead pencil, put on pans, proved and baked in a cool
oven, very crisp and dry.
SOUP STICKS WITH BAKING POWDER.
There is another mixture, which can be made into soup sticks at
a very short notice. Baking powder is used instead of yeast: One
pound of flour ; one ounce of baking powder ; one and a half ounces
of sugar ; one ounce of butter ; mix with milk. Rub the butter in the
flour, mix in the baking powder, add the sugar and mix with milk
a little tighter than Tea Biscuit dough; let it rest a moment, and
then form in strips like the other soup sticks. Bake crisp, and
brush with milk before baking.
CHEESE STICKS (PAIN SWISS).
Cheese sticks are served with fancy salads and also at the begin-
ning of the dinner after the soups, with the "hors-d'oeuvres," which
consists of small patties and other small appetizers. They are made
of puff paste in which some dry grated cheese is rolled in. For
gentlemen's parties it is often served deviled— that is a dash of
cayenne pepper is added to the grated cheese, to sharpen the appetite.
The best cheese for this is a dry Parmesan, but a good dry American
cheese will answer. Take a piece of puff paste, roll out thin and
grate some cheese over it, fold in three and roll out again to one-
eighth of an inch in thickness ; wash with egg wash and grate more
cheese over it ; cut in strips from five to six inches long and halt an
inch wide ; put on pans ; let it stand for half an hour in a cold place,
then bake nice and crisp in a medium heat. A good rich piecrust
can be used also for this purpose ; but puff paste is better.
CHEESE STRAWS AND BISCUITS.
These are made in the shape of soup sticks, about three to four
inches long and of the thickness of a pencil. They are served in the
same manner as the cheese sticks. Take equal parts of butter, grated
cheese and flour, rub the butter and cheese to a smooth paste, season
with a little cayenne pepper, a pinch of dry mustard and salt,
add the flour, and with some yolk of eggs and a little milk mix into
a paste like a cookie dough ; set in a cold place to get firm, and make
in strips. Bake in a medium heat.
Small Breads, 63
For Biscuits use the same mixture. Roll out one quarter of an
inch thick; cut in round or scalloped biscuits one and one half an
inch in diameter; prick with a fork; put on pans and bake to a nice
color.
RASPEL BRODCHEN (RASP ROLL).
Rasprolls serve for several purposes in fancy cooking. They
are used for fritters, sandwiches, crustades, and also as a special
dinner roll. They are made in different sizes and shapes, as ordered.
For a dinner roll the size and shape is like the French flutes, only
the crust removed. For sandwiches they are made in a smaller
oval shape. For crustades they are made small and round, the top
is cut off, the inside removed, rilled with a meat paste, the top re-
placed and served floating in bouillon. For fritters a round shape
is used; the roll is partly split around, without cutting through, the
incision filled with a fruit jam or jelly, then soaked in a custard, and
fried in hot lard or butter like the doughnuts.
The rasprolls may be made from a good Vienna dough. They
are best if baked on the hearth. For the sweet fritters a good rusk
dough may be used. Bake the rolls very crisp in a good heat- While
hot grate off the dark crust evenly all around ; use a fine grater, or
a coarse rasp, such as is used for cleaning the bottom of hearth-
baked breads.
VIENNA ROLLS.
The excellent taste of the Vienna bread and rolls is due to the
cool treatment of the sponges and doughs, and also to baking the
breads in steam and on the hearth. (Only a small part of the fancy
rolls are baked on pans, that is the brioches and a rich sort of rolls
which contain some shortening.) A light sponge is set with plenty
of good strong yeast; both sponges and doughs are taken young;
the breads and rolls are moulded up and given about three-quarter
proof; then they are set in a cool place to check fermentation, then
stiffened up and then they are baked.
The rolls should be divided in three classes: water rolls, milk
rolls and rolls with shortening. For the water rolls the ordinary
dough is used, and it is made into "salz-stangel," which are rolled up
like the kipfel or crescent and laid in salt or in caraway seed and
salt, the twist with poppy seed, and the "Spitzweck," a roll formed
in the shape of the Vienna loaf. The milk rolls are made with half
or part milk, any good Vienna dough a little tightened up may be
used. Out of this dough are made the greater part of the Vienna
64 Bakers' Bread.
rolls, the Kaisersemel (or emperor's bread), the crescent or kipfl,
and also the different large and small twists with poppy or caraway
seed, and also the spitzweck, which is known as the Vienna roll.
The rolls with shortening are baked on pans. For this a milk
dough is used in which some cold butter is worked, which gives the
dough, or better the rolls a brittle, leafy crust when baked; for
the brioche a few eggs are worked in the milk dough, and some
round brioches are made with a few sultana raisins in it. The
shapes of the brioches are many; like long twist, twisted wreaths or
rings, small crescents, snails, and long ringer rolls. The making
of these rolls requires long practice and dexterity and also much
time; but if made and baked all right can not be excelled by any
other breads-
VIENNA WATER ROLLS.
One pail of water (12 quarts) ; six ounces of yeast; eight ounces
of salt. Set a very slack sponge with eight quarts of water with a
good patent flour; beat it up well, at a temperature of 75 degrees
Fah. This sponge will be ready in less than three hours. Take it
at the first drop. Dissolve the salt in the remaining four quarts of
water, put it on the sponge, break it up well, and with more flour
make it into a good medium firm dough, let it come up and work
over, give a little time to spring on again; then break it into pieces
of suitable size for the different rolls. This mixture will also answer
for one and two pounds twist, and if half milk is used instead of all
water, it will make a good milk roll.
VIENNA MILK ROLLS.
Ten quarts of milk and water; six ounces of yeast and six ounces
of salt. Make a sponge as usual with six quarts of water and the
yeast; when it is ready put on four quarts of milk and the salt, and
proceed as in the foregoing mixture.
VIENNA ROLLS WITH SHORTENING.
One pail (ten quarts) of milk; one and a half pounds of cold
butter; six ounces of yeast; five ounces of salt. Set a soft sponge
with two-thirds of the milk and the yeast ; beat it up well, and when
it reaches the drop, put on the other part of the milk and the salt;
break up the sponge and make a medium firm dough; mix half and
then add the butter. Draw it in well ; let it prove up and work over ;
let it come on and break out and form into rolls. This kind of
Vienna rolls is called "Miirbs" (that means short, or brittle), and the
Small Breads. 65
rolls are baked on pans, nat on the hearth. The butter used in these
rolls is drawn butter. The butter is melted, drawn off and set on
a cold place to harden. It is then drawn into a cool dough very
lightly, and the rolls have a nice leafy brittle crust when baked.
VIENNA BRIOCHES.
The Vienna brioches are not made as rich as the French brioches,
but make a very nice fancy roll. The shapes vary very much. They
consist of several kinds of fancy twists and crescents or kipfl, and
of a small round roll, with sultana raisins in it. They are baked
singly and on pans, washed with egg wash before baking, but if
baked in steam, they are not washed before baking.
One pint milk; two ounces yeast; one ounce sugar; four eggs;
eight ounces butter; a pinch of salt. Make a light sponge with the
milk and yeast; when it is ready, work in the beaten-up eggs, salt
and sugar; work in some flour and add the butter, work into a nice
even dough, rather slack; let this dough come up and work over;
then set in a cold place to stiffen up for one hour. Then it is ready
to form into the desired shapes. Give good proof and bake in a
medium heat of 350 degrees Fah. to a nice golden color-
FRENCH ROLLS.
Beside the Brioches, the French flute roll and the split roll are
most generally known. They are made from ordinary French bread
dough, and are baked very crisp ; like the Vienna rolls they are baked
on the hearth. Where only very small quantities are made, or the
condition of the hearth does not warrant baking the rolls in this
manner, pans dusted with flour and cornmeal can be used to bake
the rolls on. They are baked also in steam like the Vienna rolls.
Many bakers prefer to use a rich Vienna dough for the split rolls,
which makes a softer and more brittle crust than the water dough.
FRENCH FLUTES.
Use a French or Vienna dough; break up in three-ounce pieces,
mould round on the board, give a little proof, form into little loaves
from five to six inches long; set in cloth-lined boxes and draw up in
folds like the French bread; prove and turn smooth side up on the
peel ; give two or three slanting cuts and bake in steam.
FRENCH SPLIT ROLLS.
Use the same dough as for flutes. Break in two-ounce pieces
mould round in box or on boards ; give a little proof and brush the
66 Bakers' Bread.
tops very lightly with melted lard. Take a small rolling-pin, about
half the thickness of a broom stick; press down along the center;
turn over; set in cloths, split side down; pinch up the cloths between
the rows and let it prove up well ; turn over and set on the peel split
up, and bake in a good heat of about 400 degrees F. Bake in steam.
GERMAN ROLLS.
All the former rolls mentioned as Vienna and French rolls are
made by the German bakers, and almost every city has some other
special rolls. The treatment of doughs also differs very much. While
in the northern cities, like Hamburg and Bremen, straight doughs
are used, in central and southern Germany sponge doughs pre-
dominate.
The rolls are divided into water and milk rolls, and several cheap
grades are made from middlings. The richer grades are baked on
pans, while the others are baked on the hearth. The best known
rolls of this kind are the Hamburg roll. (Rundstiick), often called
German Brodchen, and the German semmel, bread roll. The treat-
ment of the Brodchen is a peculiar one. At Bremen and Hamburg,
the bakeshops where the white breads are baked are situated over
the ovens, and are so hot that the bakers are compelled to work
almost naked; they wear only an apron, formed like a short skirt.
Next to the hot room is a cool room. The doughs are made in the
hot shop, straight and very slack, like a sponge, taken out of the
trough and the batch divided and put into several smaller, trough-
like boxes, and set to rise. Some of the dough is set in the cool
room, and the dough intended to be used first is kept in the hot
room. When the doughs have rested for half an hour, the bench
is dusted with flour, one box of dough turned out on it, and the
dough is punched over in very small pieces of not more than one
pound, put back in the box again to raise, and this is repeated about
four or five times with the whole batch, which is often a three and
four-pail batch. The strong yeast, slack dough and the warm shop,
and the frequent punching ripens the dough in a short time. The
dough is made into rolls. The rolls are moulded in egg-shape, set
on boards, which are very heavily dusted with fine bran (not on
cloths). The rolls are moulded and proved in the hot shop, and when
the first moulded rolls have the required proof, the foreman goes
down to the oven, which is made ready, the rolls are let down
through a chute, and the baking commences.
The oven is filled from the left to the right hand, the rolls are
Small Breads. 67
set on long narrow peels (schlagschieber), given one cut through
the center, and the oven is filled in a short time. The rolls on the
left are done by this time, they are taken out with a large broad peel,
or pulled out with a crutch into a basket in front of the oven door;
more rolls are put in the oven, and baking is continued till the whole
batch is worked up.
HAMBURG RUNDSTUCK (GERMAN BRODCHEN).
One gallon of milk; four ounces of yeast; two and one half
ounces of salt. Make a very slack straight dough, set very cool,
almost like sponge; use a good patent flour. Set the dough to rise
in a warm place; let it rest for half an hour, and put on the bench
and work over in one-pound pieces. Put back to prove. Repeat this
four or five times. The dough should be light and full of life by this
time, and ready to mould. Mould oval, in two-ounce pieces; set in
dusted boxes or on floured cloths ; prove and bake in steam.
An easier way of making these rolls is to bake them on pans and
use a slack Vienna dough. Mould up in the oval shape; set on pans
dusted with a mixture of flour and cornmeal ; set to prove in a moist
prover; let it prove up half and cut with a sharp knife one deep cut
across the center. Set back to finish proving; give full proof and
bake in steam. If baked without steam they should be washed with
water before baking and with a cornstarch wash after baking.
GERMAN WATER ROLLS.
The bread or water rolls are made by the sponge method, and for
this roll any of the Vienna or French water doughs may be used.
Break the dough in one-ounce pieces, mould round and set on board ;
give a little proof; take two pieces, press lightly together, set in
cloth-lined boxes, pinch the cloths up between the rows ; set to prove
and bake on the hearth and in steam, like the other rolls. The rolls
can also be set on dusted pans, proved and baked.
VIENNA ROLLS.
In the American-Vienna rolls, milk, sugar and lard are used to
a large extent in all the mixtures. The former recipes are the
genuine Vienna mixtures as they are used by the Vienna bakers.
AMERICAN VIENNA ROLL MIXTURES.
One pail of milk and water (12 quarts) ; two pounds of lard;
six ounces of yeast; twelve ounces of sugar; five ounces of salt
68 Bakers' Bread.
Set a sponge with eight quarts of water, rather slack, at 75 degrees
Fah. When it is ready put on four quarts of milk, sugar and salt
Mix about half and add the lard and finish mixing. Let it prove up
well and work over; let it come a little and break out and form
into rolls. Prove and bake like the other Vienna rolls.
VIENNA ROLLS WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH.
One pail (10 quarts), half milk and water; six ounces of yeast;
one pound and four ounces of sugar ; five ounces of salt ; two pounds
of lard. Make a medium firm dough with the ingredients given*
Work the dough well ; let it rise and work over twice, then it is ready
to form into rolls. For the crescents and twist it is better to have a
firm dough, while for the spitzweck (rolls made in the Vienna
loaf shape), a slacker dough may be used. These rolls are baked
on pans, and can be baked without steam, but in this an egg wash is
used before baking.
AMERICAN ROLLS.
There is no doubt that most all the rolls made in this coun-
try are of foreign origin at least in the shape. The ingredients
and also the manner of baking are different; they are made richer,
and with a softer and more brittle crust. The only roll which may
possibly be of American origin, and which has many names, is the
roll which is variously named the Parker House Roll, the Albany
Roll, the Pocket-Book Roll, etc. I have not met with this shape of
roll in Europe. There are a variety of recipes for this class of rolls.
PARKER HOUSE ROLL.
No. I — One-half gallon milk, one-half gallon water, three
ounces yeast, one ounce salt, one pound butter, ten ounces sugar.
Set a sponge as usual with the water and yeast, use a good patent
flour. When the sponge is ready put on the milk, sugar and salt,
Add the butter when the flour is mixed in, and work it into a nice
medium dough. Let this dough come up and work over twice,
then break out in small pieces. Mold round on the board; give a
little proof; take a small pin and roll flat in the center; take some
melted butter or lard and brush over; double both sides together
and set on pans ; they may be set close, to touch in baking or singly.
The rolls should not be given too much proof. In baking they
should open and the top curl backwards, if given the right proof.
Small Breads. 69
If proved in a moist temperature they require no washing, but
may be brushed with butter or lard when done.
No. 2 — One gallon milk> four ounces yeast, six ounces sugar,
twelve ounces butter, two ounces salt, straight dough. Dissolve
the yeast with a little lukewarm water and make a batter with some
flour ; let this batter stand in a warm place for fifteen minutes, then
proceed to make the dough. Take the milk at 85 degrees Fahr.,
flour and shape to correspond; add sugar and salt to the milk, mix
and add the butter. Finish mixing, work the dough well; let it
come up and work over twice, and mould into rolls.
No. 3. — One gallon white bread sponge, three-fourths pound
sugar, one pound lard, two ounces salt. Work the sugar and lard
into the broken-down sponge with more flour; let it come on once,
and then break out into rolls.
POCKET BOOK ROLL.
Half gallon milk and half gallon water, mixed, eight ounces
yeast, one and one half ounces salt, one pound sugar, one pound
lard. Set a very slack sponge at 85 degrees Fahr., flour and shop
at the same temperature. At this temperature the sponge will drop
in about one hour. Cream the sugar and lard together ; add the salt
and rub it into some flour, and make a medium firm dough. Let
it prove up once and proceed to mould into rolls. A dough made in
this manner can be got ready in a very short time.
BUTTER ROLLS.
Ten pounds white sponge, one pound butter, one half ounce salt,
one half pound sugar; mace and lemon flavor. Work the ingre-
dients given into the sponge and add more flour to make a medium
firm dough; let it come up once and make into rolls. Break out
and mold round on the bench; give some proof; brush with butter
and roll into long strips ; double up and twist rope fashion ; set
on pans so they touch lightly; brush again with butter; prove and
bake in a brisk oven. Bake to nice light brown.
MILK ROLLS.
One gallon milk, three ounces yeast, four ounces sugar, four
ounces lard, two ounces salt. Make the ingredients into a straight
dough, or set a sponge with the milk and yeast, and work in the
sugar, lard and salt when it is ready. When the dough is ready
work it up into "Pocket Book Rolls," or in the shape of the butter
rolls. Brush over with some melted butter when done and while hot.
70 Bakers' Bread.
FINGER ROLLS.
Finger rolls may be made out of all the foregoing rich roll
mixtures. They should be made nice and small and weigh not more
than one ounce in the dough. They should be about five inches
long, and not more than one inch in diameter; given full proof;
washed with milk and egg, and baked nice and crisp.
A very nice roll may be made from this mixture: Two
quarts milk, four ounces yeast, one pound butter, three
fourths pound sugar, eight eggs, mace and lemon flavor. Make
a very light sponge with the milk and yeast ; beat the eggs and sugar
up light and when the sponge is ready add to the sponge; break
it up; add more flour, and when half mixed add the butter. Let
it rise and work over. Let it come on and break out in pieces ;
ball round and let rest a few minutes, then form into fingers, set
far enough apart so they do not touch in baking. Before they get
full proof wash over; set back to finish proving; bake in about
350 to 400 degrees Fahr., to a nice color.
NEW ORLEANS ROLLS.
Twenty pounds of bread sponge, one and one half pounds
sugar, one and one half pounds butter, one quart milk, two ounces
salt. Work the milk and the other ingredients into the sponge and
with more flour make a medium dough. Let it prove up once and
form into rolls. Break in two-ounce pieces, roll in long strings as
for pretzels and twist into a long knot ; set on pans so they touch on
sides and ends in baking; brush ends with melted lard so they sepa-
rate nicely, give good proof and bake in a medium heat of 350
degrees Fahr.
No. 2. — One gallon of milk, one fourth pound of yeast, one
pound lard, one half pound sugar, one and one half ounces salt, one
half pint molasses, one half ounce cinnamon and ground
ginger. Make a straight dough; have the milk at 75 or
80 degrees Fahr., shop and flour to correspond; make
a nice smooth dough; let it come up and work over a couple of
times. Break into pieces of two ounces each; roll out with both
hands like pretzel; double up and make in twist with narrow ends;
set on pans single; give half proof; wash over with egg wash; set
back to finish proving and bake in a brisk oven.
COLUMBIA ROLL.
These rolls are also called Frankfort Rolls, because they are the
most convenient to use for a sandwich with the Frankfort sausage
Small Breads. Ji
for outdoor entertainments. The rolls are made in the shape of
a large finger-roll, a little longer than the well known sausage. They
were sold in very large quantities during the Columbian Exposition,
hence the name. The rolls may be made from any cheap roll mix-
ture, but should be proved very light and have a soft crust.
One gallon milk; 2 gallons water; 6 ounces yeast; iV2 pounds
sugar; il/2 pounds lard; 5 ounces salt. Set a sponge with the
water and yeast at 85 degrees, medium tight. Take it at the first
drop. Add the milk, sugar and salt; mix half and add the lard;
make a good smooth dough. Let it rise, and work over twice;
break in two-ounce pieces; mould in long fingers, set on pans
to prove so they do not touch; give half proof, wash with milk;
give full proof and bake in 400 to 450 degrees Fahr.
PLAIN SANDWICH ROLL.
One pail water; 6 ounces yeast; V/2 pounds sugar; 1V2. pounds
lard; 5 ounces salt. Make a straight dough with the ingredients, as
usual, rather slack; work the dough well, and when ready break
in two-ounce pieces, mould round and set on pans single; give good
proof and bake in 450 degrees F. ; wash with water, or brush with
lard while hot. Plain rolls are made in the same manner, only set
close so they touch in baking.
GRAHAM ROLLS.
No. 1. — Two quarts milk; 2 quarts water; 1 pint molasses; 2
ounces yeast; 2}/2 ounces salt. Make a straight dough with an even
mixture of graham and white flour, rather slack; work over, give a
little time to come on, and mould into rolls in round or oval shape ;
set single; give medium proof and bake in a brisk heat; brush with
melted butter or lard while hot. A dough may be made also out
of one gallon of white bread sponge, molasses added and graham
flour used for doughing.
No. 2. — Half pound lard; 6 pounds whole wheat flour; V2 pint
molasses; 3 pounds graham flour; 2 ounces salt; 3 pounds white
flour; 2 ounces yeast. Make a straight dough with about one gallon
of milk and water, medium; let come up and work over once; let
come on and mould on pans set so they touch lightly; brush with
lard on the sides so they break easily. Prove and bake in good
heat 400 degrees.
Buns and Rusks,
Rolls are often named buns, and buns rusks, and so forth. To
get a little light in this tangle it would be preferable to name only
the yeast-raised breads Buns and Rusks; the unfermented Buns or
Rusk in which baking powder or ammonia is used should be called
Biscuits.
For making buns and rusk, which are often made only in very
small quantities, but richer than the plain rolls, a white milk or water
sponge can be used, or a plain roll dough. The enriching ingre-
dients worked in and more flour added, and given time to prove on
again, before using.
One quart of milk or water makes about five pounds of sponge
with the flour added ; instead of setting one quart of sponge, take five
pounds of it from a larger sponge and work in the ingredients given
for one quart mixtures; if using off a slow bread sponge for the
purpose, a little more yeast can be added to make it prove faster.
For cheaper grades of goods egg-color is used to make the
goods look richer, but it has often the contrary effect; it should
be used with care; better none at all than too much of it. The use
of eggs is for the purpose of giving the goods a flaky lightness,
which cannot be produced without eggs or by using substitutes.
One other method of making the different sweet doughs, which
is practiced in many bakeries, is to set one large milk sponge, and
make a standard dough, with eggs, butter and sugar in it. Out of
this dough the various kinds of rusk, buns, and fancy rolls are
made, and it can be made richer for better goods. Almost every
kind of fancy bread can be made by this method, with little trouble.
For all doughs which are enriched with butter and sugar, and
to which, after raisins, currants and chopped peel or almonds are
added, it is preferable to use more yeast than in the ordinary bread
sponges. To make them still stronger they are often used as one-
half or three-quarter sponge, that is the quantity of liquid used in
the sponge is one-half to three-quarters more than the quantity
used for doughing. The sponge is also used straight; that is no
(72)
Buns and Rusks. 73
other liquid is added, only the eggs, sugar and shortening are worked
in, and more flour, to obtain the right consistency.
STANDARD DOUGH MIXTURE.
I give here a choice of standard dough mixtures, for a variety
of goods, which may be made less expensive by substituting lard or
use half-and-half, also by using less eggs.
No. i. — Set a medium sponge with 8 ounces yeast ; I gallon milk
and water. When the sponge is ready use for doughing, add 2x/2
pounds sugar; 2 quarts of milk; 2]/2 pounds butter and lard; eight
eggs; il/2 ounces of salt; for flavor, lemon extract, ground mace.
Dissolve the sugar in the milk, add salt and eggs, put on the sponge ;
work in a part of the flour; add the butter and lard and make a
nice smooth dough; let it come up and work over twice, then it
will be ready to use.
No. 2. — For sponge: One gallon milk, 8 ounces yeast. For
doughing: 2 quarts milk, i}/2 pints of eggs, il/2 ounces salt, 2*4
pounds of lard or butter, 2^ pounds of sugar lemon extract, mace.
Proceed like in the former recipe.
No. 3. — One gallon milk, 8 ounces yeast, 2 pounds sugar, 2
pounds of butter, 20 eggs, 1 ounce salt, lemon and mace. Set a slack
sponge with milk and yeast. When ready beat the eggs and sugar
together rub the butter in part of the flour add to the sponge and
make a nice smooth dough. Work over and let it come up twice,
and it will be ready for use.
No. 4. — One gallon milk, 12 ounces yeast, 2l/2 pounds sugar, 2x/2
pounds butter and lard, V/2 ounces salt, mace and lemon extract, I
quart milk. Set a sponge as usual, with one gallon of milk and the
yeast. When ready add one quart of milk and the other ingredients.
Let it come on and work over twice and it is ready for use. This
mixture contains no eggs, but more yeast. Egg color may be used if
so desired.
Here are some smaller mixtures for standard doughs, from
larger sponges:
No. 1. — Ten pounds milk sponge, 1% pounds butter, 1 ounce salt,
I J4 pounds sugar, mace, lemon extract, 4 eggs.
No. 2. — Ten pounds of sponge, 12 ounces sugar, 12 ounces butter,
10 eggs, mace, and lemon extract.
No. 3. — Ten pounds of sponge, 1 pound of butter, 12 ounces
sugar, 10 eggs, V2 ounce salt, mace and lemon.
74 Bakers' Bread.
No. 4. — Ten pounds sponge, TA pint milk, 1 pound butter and
lard, 1 pound sugar, lemon, mace.
All the given mixtures may be made into coffee-cake, pretzels
and many other cakes, as well as into rusks and buns.
THE USE OF FRUIT IN CAKES AND BUNS.
When using fruit in buns or in other yeast-raised cakes, the
fruit should be prepared the day before using. These fruits are
often used in a very dry state. They draw moisture from the cakes
and make the cakes dry. It is better to moisten the quantity of fruit
used for each day, the day before, with a light syrup or water,
so the fruit gets soft and regains the natural shape. In this way
it is more acceptable in cakes and is much better to eat.
HOT CROSS BUNS.
Any of the previously printed standard bun mixtures can be
made into this favorite bun, by the addition of currants, spice and
flavor. The dough for this bun should be made rather slack. The
original shape of the bun is the round one, but they are often set
close together, so they form squares when baked. The cross-cut is
put on when the buns have about half proof (either with a sharp
knife, scissors, or with a stamp), and the buns set back to finish
proving, washed with an egg-wash before baking, and dusted with
sugar or iced after baking. For a special bun they should be made
better than the everyday buns, even with less profit; they serve to
draw trade and are a good advertisement. I give here some special
recipes :
No. 1. — Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; three fourths
pound sugar ; one and a half pounds butter ; ten eggs ; one half ounce
salt; one pound currants; lemon flavor; mace. Make a warm
sponge, rather slack, with the milk, yeast and flour. When the
sponge is ready add the sugar, eggs, salt and flavor, beaten up;
then mix in more flour, add the softened butter and finish mixing.
Put in the currants; let it prove up and work over; let it come up
half and break up in small pieces, mould round, set on pans, far
enough apart so they do not touch in baking. Give half proof;
stamp or cut on the cross; wash with egg-wash; set back to finish
proving, and bake in a brisk heat, about 400 degrees F. Ice when
baked, with a good vanilla water icing.
No. 2. — Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; two pounds butter;
one and one fourth pounds sugar; sixteen eggs; one half ounce salt;
Buns and Rusks. 75
two pounds currants; lemon and mace. Proceed as in the fore-
going recipe.
No. 3. — Ten pounds of milk sponge; one and one half pounds
butter; twelve ounces sugar; eight eggs; one and one half pounds
almonds; lemon; mace. Work the ingredients into the sponge; let
it prove up once and make into buns as in the first recipe.
PLAIN BUNS.
Plain buns are made in both round and square shapes, without
any fruit. It is best not to have the dough too stiff. Break out as
usual, to sell for about ten cents a dozen ; give good proof and bake
in a good brisk oven. When baked they are left plain; often they
are iced like the flat cross buns ; while others brush them with but-
ter and dust sugar and cinnamon over them while hot.
CURRANT BUNS.
Take any of the plain standard dough mixtures, roll out in long
strips, sprinkle with currants, press in the currants with the rolling-
pin, dust over with a mixture of powdered sugar and cinnamon, and
roll up into a double coil, flatten and cut up in narrow strips, set on
pans close together with the cut side up. Give good proof; bake,
and wash with melted butter and dust with sugar, or ice while hot.
PLAIN CURRANT BUNS.
Take five pounds of plain bun or roll dough ; work in one pound
of well washed currants; flavor with lemon; break out in small
pieces; mould round; set on pans so they touch lightly in baking.
Wash with milk ; prove, and bake in a good heat.
SULTANA BUNS.
One quart of milk; three ounces yeast; eight eggs; twelve
ounces sugar ; one pound butter ; lemon and mace ; one and one half
pounds sultana raisins. Set a light sponge with the milk and yeast,
and when ready work in the other ingredients; put in the raisins
the last thing; let it come up and work over twice, and break out
into buns. They may be molded round or in the oval shape, just
like the other buns, and also be made in large size, to sell from five
to ten cents each. Ice after baking.
GERMAN ALMOND BUNS.
To five pounds of a rich standard dough add eight ounces of
finely chopped almonds; mould into long ovals; set on pans and
76 Bakers' Bread.
flatten out; set singly, so they do not touch in baking; give half
proof; wash with egg-wash and sprinkle with chopped almonds.
Finish proving, and bake in a medium heat so the almonds do not
burn; dust with powdered sugar when done.
GERMAN STREUSEL BUNS.
Use a good standard dough or a flat cross bun mixture with
the currants in it. Break out and mould round on board; pin out
into flat ovals ; set on pans so they touch lightly on the sides ; wash
over with milk, and sprinkle thick with "streusel," finish proving
and bake in a good heat. When baked brush with melted butter and
dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Streusel is also used for coffee cake, and is made of different
qualities. The ingredients are formed into a soft, crumbly paste;
this is rubbed through a coarse sieve or a colander and formed into
little globular pieces, which are given a little time to dry, and are
used on the cakes in this manner.
STREUSEL.
No. I.— One pound of sugar; eight ounces of butter; one and
one fourth pounds of flour; two ounces chopped almonds; lemon
extract and cinnamon. Mix the flour and sugar and almonds to-
gether; melt the butter and add it to the mixture. If still too dry,
sprinkle a little milk over, to form a soft dry paste. Rub into little
globules and spread on the cakes.
No. 2. — One half pound almond paste; one half pound butter;
one half pound sugar; one half pound flour; lemon and cinnamon
extract. Rub the almond paste and sugar together, then add the
butter. When this is incorporated, mix in the flour.
No. 3. — One pound of flour; one half pound of sugar; six ounces
butter ; one egg ; lemon, cinnamon and almond flavor. Mix together
and put away for use.
FLORADORA BUNS.
Take ten pounds of milk sponge or plain bun dough; add three
fourths pound of sugar ; eight eggs ; one and one half pounds of but-
ter; one pound of cocoanut; eight ounces citron; eight ounces
orange peel; vanilla flavor. Work the sugar, eggs and butter into
the sponge; add enough flour to make a medium dough; then add
the peel and cocoanut. If shredded cocoanut is used, it should be
chopped fine. Let the dough prove again and break in two-cent
pieces; mould round, and then form in fingers or little oblong
Buns and Rusks. 77
loaves ; set on pans so they touch only on the sides ; prove and wash
with a good egg-wash; sprinkle with long shredded almonds, and
bake in a medium heat of about 350 F. Brush with a thin vanilla
water icing when baked and while hot.
BISMARCK BUNS.
Take a good plain bun dough and mould up into round balls,
let it prove on ; pull apart in the center lightly and fill the impression
thus made with a little good fruit jam; pinch the sides over the jam
to enclose it, and set on pans, the pinched side down. Set close
enough so they touch in baking; brush over with melted butter and
set to prove. Give good proof and bake in a brisk heat. While hot
brush again with butter, and dust with sugar and cinnamon.
OPERA BUNS.
Take ten pounds of standard dough ; roll out into long flat strips
of ten inches wide and one quarter inch thick; brush over with
melted butter and sprinkle powdered sugar over; roll up into one
long roll; flatten and brush over with butter; cut into strips and
set on pans, cut side up, to touch on the sides ; wash over with milk
and sprinkle with chopped blanched peanuts. Prove and bake in
medium oven. Ice over when done.
MARTHA WASHINGTON BUNS.
Take a rich standard dough; roll out in long strips about six
inches wide and half an inch thick ; wash over with milk and spread
along the center the nut paste, given at the close of this recipe ; fold
over the sides and form a long strand about one inch thick; cut
into pieces four inches long and place on pans side by side; brush
each side with melted butter, so they separate nicely, when baked.
Set to prove; wash with egg-wash and sprinkle coarse sugar on the
top and bake in a good heat.
NUT FILLING.
Set one pound of brown sugar to boil with a little water. When
boiled down enough so it forms a thread if tested between the
fingers, add eight ounces of chopped walnuts and stir in eight whole
eggs beaten up ; take off the fire and add enough sweet cake crumbs
to form a soft paste ; flavor with cinnamon and cloves. This filling
may also be used for nut cake and in puff-paste tartlets.
78 Bakers' Bread.
COCOANUT BUNS.
To five pounds of standard dough add one pound of freshly
grated cocoanut; with vanilla. Work this dough up into long ovals,
pointed at the ends ; do not pan too close ; prove ; wash ; bake in a
good heat Color to a nice light brown in the oven some shredded
cocoanut. Ice the buns and sprinkle some of the browned cocoanut
on the icing before it becomes dry.
CARAWAY AND ANISE BUNS.
Take any of the bun mixtures; add lemon extract or grated
lemon rind. To five pounds of dough add one ounce of anise or
caraway seed, and form into buns either round or oval. They may
also be made into long strips like zwieback, and toasted when one
day old. These buns are not iced ; they are better plain. There are
a great many other mixtures, with baking powder and ammonia,
but most of them are in reality the common drop and fancy cake
mixtures stiffened up with more flour, or with part of the milk out.
RUSKS.
Rusks are very much like buns, but approach nearer to the
French Brioches, which should be the right name for them. Like
the Brioches, they are made very rich, with plenty of butter and
eggs, but contain very little sugar. The recipes are almost identical
with those for Brioches. Rusks should be of a delicate lightness
and very close grained. Three recipes are given:
No. I. — One quart of milk; two ounces yeast; two pounds of
butter ; eighteen eggs ; four ounces sugar. Set a medium sponge with
the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready, cream the butter
with some flour; beat up the eggs and sugar; put on the sponge and
make a medium slack dough. Let it come up and work over ; set in
a cool place to stiffen up for one hour. Break into small pieces and
mould round on pans. Rusks are made round and baked single;
they are also set close to form squares when baked. One other
favorite shape is moulded like the Parker House Roll, then it is
cut on the folded side, which looks very nice when they are baked.
No. 2. — Five pounds of milk sponge; one and one half pounds
of butter ; twenty- four eggs ; five ounces sugar.
No. 3. — Five pounds of milk sponge; one pound of butter; six
ounces sugar; 12 eggs. Work the ingredients into the sponge as in
the former recipes; prove and bake as directed. For the plainer
mixtures, use the standard doughs. For anise rusks add one ounce
of seeds to five pounds of dough.
Buns and Rusks. 79
ENGLISH BATH BUNS.
This bun is not moulded like other buns ; it is broken from the
dough or dropped on the pan with a spoon and flattened slightly
so to have a rough rock-like appearance when baked. To obtain
this, some bakers roll and fold in the butter as for puffpaste; others
drop the hard, cold butter in some flour and add this last to the
proved-up dough with the fruit and peel. The bun is made larger
than other buns — selling two and three for ten cents.
Four pounds flour, four ounces of yeast, nearly three pints of
milk, twelve ounces of sugar, one pound of butter, four eggs, the
grated rind of one lemon, eight ounces of currants, eight ounces of
chopped peel. Set a sponge with three pounds of flour and one
quart of milk, and the yeast. When ready add the rest of the
milk, sugar, eggs and flour; then add the cold butter dropped in
small pieces in some flour, also the peel and currants, let it prove
on a little, then drop on the pans as suggested above; spread out
some and wash with a good eggwash, sprinkle with coarse granu-
lated sugar, or with crushed loaf sugar, give good proof and bake
in a medium hot oven to a nice color.
In place of making an extra sponge, you may take five pounds
of milk sponge, or the same amount of plain roll dough, and work
in the ingredients given in the above recipe. The mixture should
be rather slack, just like a rich cake dough. A less expensive bun
of this kind can be made by omitting the eggs, using lard in place
of butter, rolling the dough out flat as for currant buns or snails;
brush it over with lard, sprinkle with currants and peel and roll up ;
then break the roll in pieces ; set on pans and cut up the top with the
scraper to make it rough-looking, then finish in same way as given
above.
Zwieback and Stollen.
The standard dough mixtures as well as the rusk mixtures, will
make a variety of zwieback, and give bakers a choice in quality as
well.
Zwieback is one of the most delicious German table breads, if
properly made. It should be prepared fresh every day, baked once
and toasted or dried freshly in small batches three or four times a
day. There is as much difference between a stale and a freshly-
toasted zwieback as there is between a stale and a fresh-baked roll.
Zwieback loses much by being exposed to the air for some time ;
like plain bread toast it tastes best when newly toasted. By observ-
ing this point in making zwieback, many bakers have worked up a
nice trade in this style of goods and made it a winner.
HAMBURG ZWIEBACK.
Two quarts of milk; four ounces of yeast; one and a half
pounds of sugar; one and a half pounds of butter; eight eggs;
lemon and cinnamon extract. Make a straight dough, rather slack,
with the ingredients given. Set in a warm place to rise. When
half risen, throw the dough on the bench, and work over in small
pieces, not larger than one pound, put back to prove on again, and
work over in the same manner. Repeat this four or five times, till
the dough is ready. Break out and mould on pans in round balls,
set single, so they do not touch in baking; give good proof, and
bake in a medium heat to a nice light brown color. Let them stand
from six to eight hours to cool, then cut through the center with a
sharp knife, set on pans and dry-toast to a nice brown in a cool
oven; set the tops and bottoms together and put away for use.
ZWIEBACK NO. 2.
One gallon of milk; six ounces of yeast; one pound of butter;
one pound of sugar; one-half ounce of salt; lemon and cinnamon
extract. Set a slack sponge with milk and yeast. When ready
(80)
Zwieback, etc. 81
cream the butter and sugar and add to the sponge. Make a medium
soft dough ; let it come up and work over ; let it come on once more
and work up into zwieback like the former recipe.
HAMBURG KINDER ZWIEBACK.
These zwieback are made without sugar; they are used for
children and invalids. One quart of milk, one quart of water,
four ounces of yeast, one and one-half pounds of butter, one and
one-half pounds of potato starch or cornstarch, two ounces of salt.
Set a sponge with the milk, water and yeast, using wheat flour.
When ready rub the butter and starch to a cream, add this to the
sponge with the salt, and add more wheat flour to make a medium
firm dough. Let it come up and work over, then break out in small
half-ounce pieces. Mould round and set on pans single, prove and
bake like the other zwieback; cut and toast tops and bottoms and
put away for use.
OTHER GERMAN ZWIEBACK.
Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; eight eggs; three fourths
pound of sugar; three fourths pound butter; mace and lemon ex-
tract; one half ounce salt. Set a light warm sponge with the
milk and yeast. When ready put on the other ingredients and make
a nice smooth dough. Let come up and work over twice; break out
into small one-half ounce pieces ; mould round and then in small
fingers about three inches long; set close together on pans so the
fingers touch each other on the sides and form one long roll the
length of the pan ; give good proof and bake. Let stand for one day,
then cut in slices; put on pans and toast to a nice brown. If the
oven is too warm and the zwieback takes too much color before
thoroughly dry, the zwieback is set to cool and returned to the oven
to finish drying.
VIENNA ZWIEBACK.
Take the standard dough or the rusk mixtures, form into long
ovals, finger shape, bake single and split and toast dry, tops and
bottoms.
HUNGARIAN OR PRESBURG ZWIEBACK.
Make like the Vienna, in long fingers, but have the ends larger
than the center, almost like Ladyfingers; prove and bake like other
zwieback, cut in halves and dry-toast; make a light meringue icing,
beat up five whites of eggs, add one pound of powdered sugar and
mix in some chopped almonds; spread on the toasted side of the
twieback, and set back in the oven to dry.
82 Bakers' Bread.
With a variety of icing the zwieback may be made into vanilla,
cinnamon and chocolate zwieback. Stale rusk and buns may also be
converted into zwieback, by toasting and icing. A very nice sweet
toast which is much sold in bakeries is made from a plain sponge
cake mixture, baked in long, half round forms, with aniseed in it,
It is cut and toasted like other zwieback. Stale pound cake also
makes a nice fancy toast and sells well.
The Stollen is the German holiday fruitcake. Like the Ameri^
can fruitcakes it is improved by age. For this reason the German
housewife gets busy a month before Christmas to make the stollen
for the holidays. A good rich yeast-raised dough is made for this
purpose, and the proportions for a good grade of stollen are about
one pound of fruit for the pound of flour. Some stollen are made
with mixed fruit, and others with almonds only, and they are
divided into different grades, according to the richness of the
doughs and the quantity and quality of fruit used in it.
GERMAN STOLLEN.
One quart of milk; three ounces yeast; one and one fourth
pounds butter; three fourth pound sugar; eight eggs; one pound
sultana raisins ; one pound malaga raisins ; two pounds of currants ;
one pound of citron and orange peel ; lemon extract and mace. Set
a sponge with the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready, beat
up the eggs and sugar, add the flavor and put on the sponge;
break it up well and work in some flour; add the butter and more
flour to make a firm dough; add the fruit the last thing. Let the
dough prove up well and work over, then scale into pieces; mould
into long shape like the Vienna loaf, then take a long rolling-pin,
press down along the center, as for split loaves, flatten out a little,
have the bottom side larger than the top, and fold over on the side
like the pocket-book rolls. Set to prove on pans ; give about three-
quarter proof, brush over with melted butter and bake in a medium
heat of 350 degrees F. When done brush again with butter and
dust at once with a mixture of cinnamon and powdered sugar, as
much as the butter will take up.
The stollen are made from one to ten pounds, and are sold by
weight.
ALMOND STOLLEN.
Take the same mixture as given above ; leave out the fruit, and
add in place of it two pounds of sweet almonds and four ounces of
Zwieback, etc. 83
bitter almonds, blanched and chopped fine. Prove and bake like the
other stollen.
The stollen may be made of a lighter grade, less expensive ; and
any of the standard dough mixtures, stiffened up with more flour
and with fruit or almonds added, will make a good stollen. It is
customary here to wash the stollen with an egg-wash before
baking, and ice after baking.
PLAIN STOLLEN.
Two quarts of milk; four ounces yeast; ten eggs; three fourths
pound of sugar; one and a half pounds butter; two pounds raisins;
one pound currants; one half pound citron; mace and lemon ex-
tract. Make a light sponge with three pints of milk and the yeast.
When the sponge is ready put on the other pint of milk, sugar,
eggs and flavor; add the butter and make a medium firm dough;
work in the fruit; let it rise and work over; scale and proceed like
in the other recipes.
A richer grade may be made from the following recipe :
Five pounds milk sponge; five eggs; one pound butter; three
fourths pound of sugar ; one pound of sultana raisins and one pound
of currants; one half pound of chopped almonds; one half pound of
citron; the grated rind of two lemons; one eighth ounce mace.
Make a medium firm dough with the ingredients given; wash the
stollen before and after baking with melted butter, and dust with
powdered sugar and cinnamon.
PLAIN STOLLEN NO. 2.
Ten pounds of standard dough; two pounds of raisins; one
pound of currants; tighten up the dough with more flour and work
in the fruit. The stollen may be washed with an egg-wash before
baking, and iced plain when done. Another way is to sprinkle with
browned chopped almonds before the icing gets dry.
Coffee Cakes, Etc.
The central part of Germany is the home of the coffeecake, and
there it is made to perfection. The cakes are not made as thick as
the American coffeecake, not more than one inch in thickness ; the
cakes are washed thickly with melted butter before and after
baking; and the sugar and the melted butter form a tasty crust
which melts on the tongue.
Coffeecake is made in a flat shape, either in a full sheet, the size
of the baking pans, or in smaller squares, and also in round shapes
the size of the layer cake tins. The best known coffeecakes are the
Streusel, Almond, Cinnamon and Raisin or fruit coffeecake or
Kuchen. There are a variety of other cakes which are used as
coffeecakes, but generally are not counted in this class. There are
potatocakes, cheesecakes, creamcakes, and all the fresh fruit cakes,
which are made mostly when the fruits are in season. Other large
yeast-raised cakes are the Kauglauff or Gugelhupf, which are known
in Germany as Napfkuchen, in France as Babas, and in Vienna as
Gugelhupf. These cakes are baked in deep forms, plain and scal-
lopped, with a large tube in the center. They are one of the oldest
and best known coffeecakes. I will give some recipes later on. The
other variety of coffeecakes consists of the rolled-in goods. For
this grade the plain cake dough is enriched by rolling in cold butter
in the proportion of one pound of butter to five pounds of standard
dough. This makes a nice leafy dough, almost like puff paste. For
some other kinds of those goods the butter is added to each indi-
vidual piece, and rolled in in this manner. Out of these doughs are
made a variety of pretzels (Blunderpretzel), Snails, Wreaths,
Crowncake (Kranzkuchen) and many other smaller fancy rolls.
GERMAN COFFEECAKES.
One quart milk; four ounces yeast; twelve ounces sugar; one
pound of butter; twelve eggs; lemon and mace. Set a light warm
sponge with yeast and milk; when ready add eggs and sugar well
beaten, also the flavor ; break up the sponge, add the flour, mix half
(84)
Coffee Cakes, etc. 85
and put in the butter and make a nice smooth dough, rather slack.
Let it come up and work over twice. Scale into pieces and roll out
into large or small flat cakes. Brush with butter, set to prove,
sprinkle with streusel or almonds and bake in a brisk oven.
Coffeecake should be baked in a good even heat of about 350
degrees to 400 degrees F. ; a flash heat is apt to color too much
before the cake is done. If the oven bakes more on the bottom
than on the top another pan may be slipped under to prevent
burning.
COFFEECAKE NO. 2.
Five pounds of milk sponge; twelve ounces butter; ten ounces
sugar ; five eggs ; lemon extract ; mace. Work this into the sponge,
add more flour to form a slack dough; beat it up well and set to
prove. Let it come up and work over ; scale and make into cakes.
For Almond Coffeecake add to the above mixture one pound of
sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
chopped fine. Sprinkle the almonds on top before baking, or bake
first, then ice over and sprinkle with slightly browned chopped
almonds before the icing gets dry.
PLAIN COFFEECAKE.
Three quarts milk; eight ounces yeast; six eggs; thirty ounces
sugar; thirty ounces butter and lard; lemon and mace; one ounce
salt. Proceed as in the former recipes; or make a straight dough
with the ingredients given.
RAISIN COFFEECAKE.
To five pounds of plain coffeecake add two pounds of sultana
raisins, or one pound of raisins and one of currants ; almonds, citron
and orange peel may also be added for variety, and the cake named
accordingly, for fruitcakes the top may be left plain, or sprinkled
with almonds and iced over to suit the taste.
GERMAN POTATO COFFEECAKE.
The potatoes used for this cake are boiled whole, then peeled
and set aside to get cold; they are grated and added to the dough
when the flour is all worked in. A good strong lemon and mace
flavor goes very nicely with this cake.
One quart milk; four ounces yeast; three fourth pound sugar;
one pound butter; four eggs; two pounds grated and boiled pota-
toes ; one half ounce salt ; lemon and mace. Set a light sponge with
86 Bakers' Bread.
the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready make a nice slack
dough; add the potatoes the last thing. Let prove up and work
over once, then scale and roll into flat sheets the size of the pan.
Brush over with warm, melted butter ; give some proof, then take a
pastry j agger, or dough wheel, and mark the sheets into squares,
to sell for five cents each. Give good proof and bake in a good
brisk oven. Wash again with butter. When done dust with pow-
dered sugar. This is a very nice light cake, which is sold in large
quantities in Saxon bakeries.
The coffeecakes can be made less expensive by reducing the
ingredients, also by using half lard instead of all butter. Fewer
eggs may be used or coloring substituted. For good coffeecakes it
is better to use the recipes as given. The standard doughs are also
used for coffeecakes, but with a slacker dough.
For the fresh-fruit coffeecakes the dough is rolled out about
one half inch in thickness, given a little proof, then the fruit is laid
on. The apples are cut in thin slices, peaches and plums are put
on in halves, the cherries and the other berries are spread on whole,
sugar is added and the cakes given some more proof, and then
they are baked in a good brisk heat. Some bakers use a cream on
top of the fruit, something like a custard or pastry cream, and the
cakes are baked with this custard, which makes a very nice cake.
FRENCH COFFEECAKES.
For French coffeecakes, tea rolls, and butter pretzel or "blunder
pretzels," a plain standard or bun dough is used, into which more
butter or butter and lard is rolled in, as for puffpaste, which give
these goods a flaky and leafy appearance when baked. To each
pound of ready dough take from three to six ounces of butter to
roll in, or make a special dough in the following manner: One
quart milk; four ounces yeast; ten ounces butter; ten ounces sugar;
eight eggs; lemon extract; mace. Make a straight dough, or set a
sponge as usual, with the ingredients given. Make the dough about
medium, and let it come up and work over twice ; set in a cool place
to stiffen up for one hour. Then proceed to roll in more butter.
For each pound of dough take four ounces of firm butter, cold and
of the same consistency as the dough. Roll the dough in a long
sheet, about three times as long as it is wide. Spread the butter in
little pats over two thirds of the dough, fold in the other third left
bare over half of the buttered part, and then fold the other part on
the top of this, to enclose the butter. Roll out again into a thin
Coffee Cakes, etc. Sj
sheet, fold again into three, set away for fifteen minutes to rest and
cool, then give two more turns of three folds each, and the dough
is ready for use.
All rolled-in goods should be treated cool and not proved in a
very warm closet or in steam, because the heat would cause the
butter to run and make the goods fat. The ordinary temperature of
the shop is sufficient, but keep covered and out of drafts, to pre-
vent crusting.
These cakes are made in different sizes, and sell at five and ten
cents each, and also three for ten cents. Take the prepared
dough, roll into a sheet about half an inch thick and eighteen inches
long, cut into long strips one inch wide and the length of the sheet;
give each strip a twist and form into a coil ; fold the end under ;
set on pans so the cakes do not touch in baking; give good proof;
wash with eggwash and bake in a brisk heat. Ice with a vanilla
water icing when done.
POTATO CREAM CAKE.
Two and one half pounds of boiled and grated potatoes; eight
ounces flour; twelve ounces butter; one half pint of cream or milk;
six ounces of sugar ; eight eggs ; a little powdered cinnamon. Roll
out a bottom for the cake from plain cake dough ; press up well on
the sides and set to prove. While proving prepare the potato cream.
Separate the eggs, beat the yolks and sugar together, and add
gradually to the grated potatoes; sift on the flour; beat up again;
mix in the melted butter and flavor. Mix in the whites of eggs,
beaten stiff; spread this cream over the cake evenly about one inch
thick, and bake in a good heat. Sift over with powdered sugar
and cinnamon when done.
FRENCH TEA ROLLS.
From the prepared dough roll a sheet about one-half inch
thick and cut in strips eight inches long and three-quarters of an
inch wide; give each strip a spiral twist and double up in rope
fashion; set on pans so they touch lightly on the sides in baking;
let prove ; wash over and bake in a good heat ; finish like the coffee-
cake. These cakes sell at two for five cents, and also at twelve
cents the dozen.
BUTTER PRETZEL.
The pretzels are made to sell at five and ten cents each, and
also three for ten cents. Take a sheet of the prepared dough, cut
88 Bakers' Bread.
into long strips of fourteen inches, and one inch wide; give each
strip a twist and form into pretzels; set on pans; prove; wash
and bake like the other cake ; ice when done.
GERMAN KRANZKUCHEN.
There are several ways of making these cakes; they range in
prices from ten to twenty-five cents and more.
No. I — Take a piece of the prepared dough, roll out one inch
thick and cut in strips eighteen inches long and two inches wide;
give the strip a twist, and form into a large ring; join the ends
nicely together ; set on pans ; prove, wash and sprinkle with chopped
almonds; bake in a medium heat; ice over when done, or wash
with butter, and dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
No. 2 — Take a piece of standard dough and roll into a thin
sheet, say one-quarter inch thick, eighteen inches long and ten
inches wide. Cream together four ounces of butter and six ounces
of sugar; flavor with lemon and mace; spread this on the sheet;
sprinkle with Sultana raisins, currants and chopped citron; roll the
sheet up like a jelly roll; set on pan and form a large ring; flatten
a little and set to prove. (This is for a large size Kranzkuchen,
but may be made in smaller sizes if desired.) When half proved,
take a sharp knife or a pair of scissors, and cut the top in zigzag
shape ; cut almost to the center of the roll ; finish proving and bake
in a medium heat. Brush with melted butter and dust with sugar
and cinnamon when done. The cake may also be washed before
baking, and sprinkled with shredded almonds and iced after baking.
GERMAN CHEESECAKES (QUARKKUCHEN) .
Three pounds of dry cheese curd ; eight eggs ; eight ounces
sugar; six ounces butter; one half pint milk; three ounces flour;
six ounces sultana raisins ; six ounces currants ; four ounces chopped
almonds ; a little saffron ; one lemon rind ; mace. Roll out the bottom
for the cake from plain cake dough; let it come up well on the
sides ; roll about one quarter inch thick. Set to prove. While it is
proving, separate the eggs, dissolve the saffron, and rub the cheese
through a sieve; mix in by degrees the yolks, sugar and flour, add
the saffron, mace and the grated rind of the lemon; also the melted
butter and the fruit, and then the whites of egg beaten to a froth.
Spread the mixture evenly over the pan, dust some powdered cin-
namon over, and bake in a medium heat. Sift powdered sugar over
when done. The mixture will puff up in baking and fall a little
when done, but without detriment to the cake.
Coffee Cakes, etc. 89
No. 2. — Three pounds cheese; eight ounces sugar; six ounces
butter; three ounces flour; eight ounces of currants; four yolks;
four whole eggs; one fourth pint milk; lemon flavor and mace. Roll
out a sheet as in the previous recipe; rub the cheese through a
sieve; cream the butter, sugar and eggs and mix into the cheese;
add the flour and flavor, and thin up with the milk. Spread on the
cake; sprinkle the currants on top and dust with cinnamon. Bake
in a brisk heat. Sift over with powdered sugar when done.
GERMAN CREAM CAKE.
This cake is similar to the cheesecake, and is baked in the same
manner. The sheet is rolled out thin and proved, and the mixture
is spread on. Melt eight ounces of butter, take off the salt and let
it cool again. Beat into it by degrees six yolks and one whole egg ;
add five ounces of sugar, one ounce of bitter almonds, chopped very
fine; add the grated rind of one lemon, flavor with mace and cin-
namon. Spread this mixture evenly over the cakes, sprinkle with
sultana raisins and some finely sliced almonds, and bake in a
medium oven. Dust with powdered sugar when done.
No. 2. — One quart milk; sixteen eggs; four ounces butter; one
and one half pounds sugar; four ounces cornstarch; four ounces
sultana raisins; four ounces currants; vanilla flavor. Roll out the
sheet and set to prove. Set the milk and butter and one pound of
sugar to boil. Mix the other sugar and starch together and stir in
the eggs by degrees; beat it up well, and when the milk is boiling
pour it on the starch, sugar and eggs ; add the vanilla ; sprinkle the
currants and raisins on the bottom of the cake; spread the cream
over evenly. Bake in a medium heat to a nice color and dust with
powdered sugar when done.
WREATHS.
Wreaths are made in ten and fifteen-cent sizes. They may be
made from the prepared dough, and also from the plain standard
doughs. Take any of the doughs mentioned and roll out into one
inch thickness; cut into strips from eighteen to twenty-four inches
long and one inch wide; take three or four strips and plait into a
long, even strand; form this into a ring or wreath, join the ends
and set on the pan; prove and wash over; sprinkle with shredded
almonds and bake to a nice color. Ice with a vanilla or lemon icing
when done and while hot.
90 Bakers? Bread,
SNAILS.
Take some prepared dough; roll into a sheet about a quarter-
inch thick, twelve inches wide and of any length; brush over with
butter, and dredge with powdered sugar; sprinkle with currants,
cinnamon and finely chopped citron or almonds. Roll up the sheet
like a jelly roll; brush the roll over with butter and cut up with
a sharp knife into half inch slices; set on pans the cut side up, so
they touch lightly on the sides in baking; prove; wash over and
bake in a brisk heat; ice over or dust with powdered sugar when
done. The other way of making the snails is to take plain standard
or bun dough, roll out as in the former recipe; brush over with
lard or butter; sprinkle with sugar and fruit and cut like the
others, but set closer together, so they bake in squares. Brushing
the roll with lard on the outside before cutting makes the cakes
separate nicely when baked. They may be dipped in granulated
sugar before baking, or iced afterwards.
Either shape may be made from the same roll. Cut the slices
one inch thick; take a small rolling-pin, about twice as thick as a
pencil, press down in the center in such a way that both cut sides
turn up and form two oval coils; set on pans so they touch lightly
in baking; prove and bake like other snails. These rolls can be
made to sell at ten and twenty cents per dozen.
Another way is to make a roll of the dough of a smaller diam-
eter, flatten it some, and cut into three-inch pieces; set the slices
on pans, and on each side cut half through, about one inch long,
turn the cut side out and set to prove; wash and bake like the
other buns. A much cheaper article can be made from the plain
roll doughs and from common bun dough, using lard instead of
butter. All the shapes may be made, as given above, and of a nice
appearance. In localities where quantity rules above quality this
makes a nice variety of rolls and buns, larger pieces but inferior
in quality.
gugelhupf; napfkuchen; baba.
The best grades of these large yeast-raised cakes are made like
rich pound cakes ; the butter and sugar are creamed, the beaten eggs,
yeast and flour added, then they are filled in forms, raised and
baked. For the other grades a sponge is set as usual, and the in-
gredients are added as in other cakes.
Coffee Cakes, etc. gt
GERMAN NAPFKUCHEN.
No. I— One pound six ounces of flour; one-half pound of
sugar; two ounces of yeast; one pound of butter; the grated rind
of one lemon; sixteen yolks of eggs; twelve whites of eggs; four
ounces of shredded almonds. Dissolve the yeast in a little warm
milk; cream the butter and sugar very light; add the yolks by de-
grees, then the lemon rind, and yeast, and mix in the flour; draw
in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Brush the cakemould
thick with butter and sprinkle with the shredded almonds; fill the
mould about half with the mixture and set to rise till the mould
is nearly full; bake for one hour in a medium heat to a nice brown
color; dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon while hot, or ice
with a vanilla or lemon icing.
BERLIN NAPFKUCHEN ( PLAIN).
Two and one-half pounds of flour; one-half pint of milk; two
ounces yeast; six eggs; six ounces sugar; eight ounces butter; one
pint warm milk; one-half pound raisins and currants; two ounces
sliced almonds; lemon extract; mace. Set a warm sponge with
the half pint of milk, yeast and parts of the flour. When ready add
the one pint of warm milk, also the eggs and sugar; work well in
the flour and butter, raisins and currants; work the dough very
nice and smooth; let it rise up and work over. Brush the form
with butter and sprinkle with the sliced almonds; fill the mould
half with the mixture; let rise and bake in a medium hot oven.
When done turn out of the moulds, brush with butter and dust with
powdered sugar and cinnamon.
BERLIN NAPFKUCHEN (PLAIN).
No. 2 — One pound of flour; two ounces yeast (dissolved) ; four
ounces sugar; lemon extract and mace; 4 whole eggs; four ounces
raisins ; four ounces currants ; four yolks ; three ounces citron ; three
almonds. Prepare like No. 1.
DRESDEN BABA.
No. 3 — One pound butter; eleven whole eggs; four yolks; one-
half pound sugar ; the grated rind of one lemon ; two pounds of flour ;
one-half pint of cream ; two ounces of yeast. Prepare like No. 1.
FRENCH BABA AND SAVARIN CAKES.
The French and also the Polish babas are made in the same
manner as the German mixtures for No. 1, 2, 3, with this difference,
92 Bakers' Bread.
for the French Baba only sultana or seeded Malaga raisins are
used; and in the Polish Baba mixture, raisins, citron and currants
are used, with a strong flavor and color of India saffron. The
cakes are iced or dusted with powdered sugar when done. The
French Savarin cake is also made out of the same mixtures, only
the fruit is left out. This cake after it is baked is saturated with
a thin syrup which contains Maraschino liquor and is served in
this manner. The babas are baked in plain straight sided form
with a wide center tube in them.
AMERICAN KAUGLAUFF, OR BUNDKUCHEN.
No. I — One quart milk; two and one-half ounces yeast; four
pounds of flour; twelve eggs; one pound of butter; one pound of
sugar ; twelve pounds raisins ; one-half pound currants ; four ounces
citron; lemon extract and mace.
No. 2 — One quart of milk, three ounces yeast; four pounds of
flour; sixteen eggs; twelve ounces sugar; one and one-half pounds
of butter ; one-half pound of sultana raisins ; four ounces citron ;
four ounces of chopped almonds. For both recipes set a warm
sponge with one pint of milk, the yeast and part of the flour. When
the sponge is ready add the other pint of milk and work in the
flour; then add the other ingredients in the following manner:
Cream the sugar and butter, add the beaten eggs and flavor and
work this in the dough, then add the fruit the last thing. Let
this dough come up and work down ; butter the forms well ; sprinkle
with almonds; fill in the mixture; give good proof and bake in a
medium heat. Ice with lemon or vanilla icing, or dust with powdered
sugar while hot.
The Bundkuchen can be made also from any of the standard
doughs, by making the doughs richer and very slack, or from a milk
sponge, for which I give here some recipes :
No. I — Take five pounds of standard dough; work in three-
quarter pound of butter; six ounces of sugar; eight eggs; one-half
pound of raisins ; one-half pound of currants. Let this dough come
up once and work down, and fill in the moulds like the other
mixtures. Bake in the same manner.
No. 2 — Take eight pounds of milk sponge, work in one pound of
sugar; one pound of butter; eight eggs; flavor with lemon and
mace, and add one pound raisins; one pound currants; one-half
pound citron. Add a little more flour to make a very slack dough;
Coffee Cakes, etc. 93
let come up once; fill in buttered forms; prove and bake like the
other cakes.
No. 3 — Take five pounds of milk sponge; one pound butter;
three-quarter pound sugar; one and one-half pint eggs; one-half
pound of chopped almonds; flavor with lemon and mace. Beat the
ingredients into the sponge. Butter the moulds and fill the mixture
in at once ; let rise and bake like the German Napfkuchen.
All these mixtures should be made very slack, — just thick
enough so the fruit does not sink in baking.
Doughnuts, Muffins and
Griddle Cakes.
YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS.
Doughnuts can be made from any ordinary roll dough which
contains sweetening. The better grades are made from the standard
doughs given in previous recipes, and a very light slack dough with
little shortening makes a very nice article. In Germany the dough-
nuts are called krapfen in the South, and in Central and Northern
Germany they are called pfankuchen (pancake). The doughnuts
called Bismarcks are identical with the Berlin pfankuchen. Dough-
nuts are fried in hot lard and also in vegetable compounds. The lard
should have the right degree of heat when they are put in, otherwise
the grease will soak in the cakes and make them unfit for use, and
cause a larger consumption of grease and loss of profit. One other
point which should be watched in frying the cakes is the proof; if
the cakes are given full proof, or, in baking powder raised doughnuts,
made too light, they get too porous and soak in the grease in frying.
If the grease is too hot it will cause a smaller cake, by forming the
crust too quick (not having sufficient time to expand), and also caus-
ing the bursting on top and the breaking through of the raw, un-
cooked dough on the sides, just as a loaf of bread bursts in the oven
if given half proof and is then baked in a quick heat. Doughnuts
made from cheap grades of dough require a hotter grease than the
richer kind.
DOUGHNUTS — NO. I.
Two quarts milk ; two ounces yeast ; twelve ounces sugar ; twelve
ounces butter; six eggs; half ounce salt; lemon extract; mace.
Make a very slack sponge, lukewarm, with the milk and yeast and
some good patent flour. When the sponge is ready work in the other
ingredients, and with more flour make a smooth dough. Let it come
up once and work over. Roll out into a sheet about one third of an
inch thick and cut into rings, plain rounds or long squares; set on
cloth-lined trays to prove, and fry as directed.
(94)
Doughnuts, etc. 95
Bismarcks are often called jelly doughnuts; they are best if
filled with jam. It is not advisable to use jelly if they are filled
before frying, because it melts and soaks through the cakes, runs out
in frying and makes a bad-looking cake. Jam is more substantial
and stays in the cakes. Doughnuts may be filled with jelly after
they are fried, with one of the patent fillers which are used for cream
puffs, or by using a bag and small tube.
DOUGHNUTS — NO. 2.
Ten pounds of sponge dough; one pound of butter and lard;
four eggs; three fourths pound sugar; lemon extract; mace. Work
the ingredients into th~ sponge; add more flour, and make a smooth
dough; cut out; prove and fry as directed.
BISMARCKS.
The genuine Bismarcks are made of a richer mixture; they are
made small and filled with a good preserve or fruit jam, but raised
and fried like the doughnuts.
One quart milk; four ounces yeast; one pound four ounces
butter; twelve ounces sugar; twelve eggs; the grated rind of one
lemon ; a little mace ; half ounce salt. Set a warm slack sponge with
yeast, milk and a good strong flour. Work the other ingredients in
the sponge when it is ready, adding more flour to make a nice slack
dough. Let it come up and work over twice. Ball up round in one
ounce pieces, and set on the board or bench ; give a little proof ; pull
each piece a little apart to make a cavity in the center ; put a dot of
jam into the impression and pinch up the dough over the jam so it
will not run out in frying. Set the pinched side down on cloth-lined
trays ; prove and fry to a nice brown ; dust with powdered sugar and
cinnamon while hot.
VIENNA KRAPFEN.
The Vienna Krapfen may be made from the same mixture as
given for the Berlin pfankuchen. The original mixture is more like
the Vienna Brioche dough; it contains more eggs — that is, yolks
only; the whites being left out. The krapfen are not balled round;
the dough is rolled into a thin sheet about one-quarter inch thick.
With a round cutter the dough is cut up in pieces. Half the pieces
are washed with egg or milk; some apricot jam or other preserve
is placed in the center. The other half of the cut out pieces are
placed on the top, the sides pressed together to enclose the jam, and
with a smaller sized cutter each of the krapfen is trimmed even;
they are set to prove and fried like the Bismarcks,
96 Bakers' Bread.
DRESDEN CHEESEPUFFS, OR KASEKEULCHEN.
These cakes are made in the same manner as the Bismarcks, only
instead of jam, they are filled with a cheesecake mixture like the
following: Two and a half pounds of cheese curd; six ounces sugar;
six yolks ; one cup of cream ; four ounces butter ; grated rind of two
lemons; six ounces currants; four ounces citron; four ounces al-
monds, chopped fine. Force the cheese through a sieve; melt the
butter, and work the ingredients together and use for filling. The
same filling may be used for cheese tartlets and cheesecakes.
DOUGHNUTS OR CRULLERS WITH BAKING POWDER.
No. I. — Two pounds flour ; one ounce good baking powder ; four
ounces butter; eight yolks; two whole eggs; six ounces sugar; one
half pint milk; flavor, lemon extract; mace.
No. 2. — Three pounds flour; one and a half ounces baking pow-
der; six ounces butter; eight ounces sugar; eight eggs; one and a
half pints milk; lemon and mace.
No. 3. — Four pounds flour; two ounces baking powder; one
pound sugar ; four ounces butter ; four eggs ; one quart milk ; a little
salt; flavor.
Sift the baking powder in the flour ; cream the butter and sugar
and eggs ; mix like tea biscuits, rather slack ; roll and cut with ring
cutter or cruller cutter like other doughnuts ; set in box and cover up
to prevent drying, and fry at once. Dust with sugar when done or
ice over. The plain doughnuts generally sell for ten cents per dozen ;
the iced ones sell for twelve cents.
FRENCH CRULLERS.
One quart milk and water; one pound lard; one and a fourth
pounds flour; one quart eggs. This mixture is made just like a
cream-puff mixture. It should be made firm enough so the dressed
up rings keep in shape without running flat. Sift the flour; put the
lard into the milk and water ; let come to a boil ; stir in the flour and
take off the fire. Put the hot paste into a bowl and let it cool a
little ; work in the eggs while the paste is warm. Do not use all the
eggs if the mixture gets too soft. Put in a bag, and with a large star
tube dress in rings on round pieces of greased paper the size of the
frying pan. Turn them over into the hot grease. The paper will
come off in a short time ; take it out to dress more of the cake on it ;
turn the crullers over several times till done. If not sufficiently
cooked they shrink. Ice over with vanilla icing when done. The
Doughnuts, etc. 97
rings should be made rather small to sell ten cents per dozen, to
leave some profit for the baker. Some very practical inventions for
frying crullers and doughnuts in large quantities are in the market.
The cakes are fried under the grease and need no turning, coloring
them evenly on both sides at once, which saves a good deal of time.
MUFFINS AND CRUMPETS.
English muffins can be made from any white bread sponge,
which has reached the first drop, by adding the amount of salt gen-
erally used for bread. This saves the making of a special sponge,
where the muffins are made in very small quantities. They are
baked on a hot iron griddle or plate. The gas heated griddle seen
at restaurants is the most convenient for this purpose. With 1 gallon
of water; 2 ounces of yeast, and 3 ounces of salt, make a very soft
dough luke warm; use a good bread flour; work the dough well
but make it slack like a sponge. Let it rise; and when it reaches
the drop, beat it down again and let it come up a little. Prepare
some trays or bread boxes filled with sifted flour about three inches
deep. Take a muffin cup and make half round impressions in the
flour a little distance apart. Drop the dough out in two ounce
pieces by hand (just like dropcake) into the impressions made in
the flour; dust over, cover and set to prove. When proved up to
double size, lift out carefully from the flour; flatten somewhat and
put on the griddle to bake ; turn over carefully when about half
done and finish baking. These muffins should be turned just at
the right moment. If turned too soon they become flat and the
dough breaks through on the sides. If turned too late they get
round on the top and lose the proper shape.
Another and more practical way has been adopted in hotels,
which I think gives a better looking muffin with less trouble. The
muffins are made from the same mixture as in the foregoing recipe ;
sometimes half milk is used instead of water, and the mixture is
made still slacker. The muffins are baked in the same manner, but
in rings, just like the English crumpets. They are also raised with
baking powder in some places, but are better if raised with yeast or
ferment.
ENGLISH MUFFINS IN RINGS.
Four ounces of flour; 2 ounces of yeast; 1 quart water; 1 quart
of milk; 1 ounce of salt. Make a sponge or slack dough with the
98 Bakers' Bread.
ingredients and proceed as in the former recipe, only have the bat-
ter softer. When the batter is coming up the second time, have the
griddle hot, take muffin rings three inches in diameter and one
inch high ; grease well and set on griddle ; put the batter in a fun-
nel dropper, or in a custard dipper, and fill each ring about half full
with the batter. It will raise up and fill the ring. As soon as it be-
comes dry on the sides and is baked sufficiently on the bottom, turn
over carefully; after a minute remove the rings and finish baking.
The muffins should be pulled into halves (not cut), slightly toasted
and eaten with butter.
MUFFINS WITH BAKING POWDER.
Two pounds of flour; 2 ounces of baking powder; 4 ounces of
butter; 4 eggs; 1 quart of milk; % ounce of salt. Mix the ingred-
ients well together into a batter ; bake in greased rings
SALLY LUNN.
Two quarts of milk; 2 ounces of yeast; % ounce salt; 12
ounces of sugar; 12 ounces of butter; 8 eggs; mace. Set a warm
sponge with three pints of milk and the yeast. When ready put on
the remaining pint of milk, eggs, sugar and salt, add the melted
butter, and make a rather slack, smooth dough. Let it prove up
once and work over; scale into half pound pieces; mould round; set
on pie or layer cake tins ; flatten out on the tins and give some
proof; wash over with melted butter; and with the dough scraper
cut each round in four pieces. Set back to finish proving and bake
in a good heat. The brushing with butter makes the cuts separate
nicely and the Sallys can be sold whole or in single pieces.
SALLY LUNN MUFFINS.
Four pounds of flour ; 3 ounces of baking powder ; 3 pints milk ;
6 ounces of sugar; 8 ounces butter; 8 eggs; l/2 ounce of salt. Sift
the baking powder in the flour. Beat the eggs, sugar and salt to-
gether; melt the butter, and mix all the ingredients into a batter.
Bake in well-greased muffin cups in a medium heat.
YEAST RAISED MUFFINS J (SWEET BISCUIT.)
Four pounds of flour; iY2 ounces of yeast; Y2 ounce salt ; 3 pints
of milk ; 8 eggs ; 12 ounces of butter ; 8 ounces of sugar ; flour ; mace.
Set a sponge as usual, with two pints of the milk and two pounds
Doughnuts, etc. 99
of the flour and yeast. When ready add the remaining milk and the
other ingredients; make a very soft dough; let come up and beat
down. Prepare a flat pan; grease it and set on as many small muf-
fin rings, one inch high and two inches in diameter, as the pan will
hold; grease well and fill about half full with the mixture. Let it
prove up full and bake in a good heat of about 400 degrees Fah.
CORN MUFFINS.
One pound of cornmeal; two pounds of wheat flour; three
ounces of baking powder; twelve ounces of sugar; five ounces of
butter; one quart of milk; eight eggs; a pinch of salt. Sift the
flour and baking powder; rub the sugar and butter with the eggs;
add the milk, and mix with the flour and meal; fill in well-greased
muffin moulds, and bake in a medium heat. The quantity given
makes forty muffins.
CRUMPETS.
Four pounds of flour; 2 ounces of yeast; 2 quarts of milk and
water; 1 ounce of salt; 4 ounces of butter; 4 ounces of sugar. Set
a sponge as for English muffins with water and milk. When ready
work in the butter, sugar and salt. Bake on the hot griddle in
greased rings of a smaller size. The turning must be done carefully.
They are split and toasted like the muffins.
CRUMPETS WITH BAKING POWDER.
Two pounds of flour; il/2 ounces of baking powder; 2 ounces of
butter; 2 ounces of sugar or molasses; l/2 ounce of salt; 1 quart
water and milk. Sift the baking powder, sugar and salt into the
flour ; add the milk and water by degrees ; beat up well into a smooth
thick batter; add the melted butter; bake in greased rings on the
griddle. Crumpets are also baked in flat cakes without rings,
like buckwheat cakes. The batter is thinned up with more milk
to make them run flat; they are turned over on the griddle just
like the other cakes. If a few eggs are used it improves them
wonderfully. Sometimes ground cinnamon is used.
BISCUITS, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC.
A large variety of biscuits can be made from the following two
mixtures, by adding different fruits, egg and nuts, and also by
increasing the amount of sugar and shortening. A good winter-
wheat flour, or half spring and winter wheat, makes the best bis-
cuits. The dough should be made soft and smooth.
roo Bakers' Bread.
For the plain tea biscuit one ounce of baking powder and two
ounces of shortening (either butter or lard) is used. If all milk is
used in mixing no sugar is required for plain biscuit, otherwise one
ounce of sugar and three ounces of shortening should be taken to
one pound of flour.
TEA BISCUIT.
No. i. — Three pounds flour; 3 ounces baking powder; 6 ounces
butter or lard; 2 ounces of sugar; l/2 ounce salt; 1 quart milk.
No. 2. — Twelve pounds of flour; 1 gallon milk; 6 ounces salt; 8
ounces of cream of tartar ; 3 ounces of soda ; 2 pounds of lard ; (or
use 12 ounces of baking powder instead of soda and cream of tartar) »
mix the powder, sugar and salt in the flour, sift in the bowl. The
lard may be rubbed in a part of the flour or may be melted and
mixed in the flour with the milk. Make a nice smooth dough, dust
some flour on the table ; throw out the dough and fold into a square
piece; flatten on the table and roll out evenly about one-half inch
thick. Let the rolled-out sheet rest for a minute to lose its springi-
ness; cut out into biscuits; set in rows on the pan; wash with a
thin egg wash, and bake in a good heat of 350 degrees Fah.
SCOTCH SCONES.
Four pounds of flour ; eight ounces of sugar ; eight ounces of
butter; one quart of milk; one and one-quarter ounces of bicarbon-
ate of soda; two and one-quarter ounces of cream of tartar, or four
ounces of good baking powder. Rub the butter in one-half of the
flour; sift the sugar, cream of tartar and soda into the other half;
mix together and then mix with milk into a medium dough. Work
this dough well for a couple of minutes, then scale in twelve-ounce
pieces; mould the pieces round and roll out the size of layer cake
tins; cut each with the scraper into four pieces and place on large
layer cake or pie tins so the cut sides do not touch in baking; prick
or dock each piece with a fork and set in a damp warm proof box
for half an hour, then wash the top with egg-wash and bake in a
good heat. If sour milk or buttermilk is used take one ounce
of soda and two of cream of tartar only for the same mixture.
Plain scones are made without sugar. Use four pounds flour, one
ounce of soda, two ounces of cream of tartar, one ounce of salt,
eight ounces of lard, one quart of sour milk and bake like the other
scones. Raisin scones and currant scones are made after the same
recipes, about twelve ounces of fruit is added and sometimes a
Doughnuts, etc. ior
couple of yolks with a pinch of mace. The mixture should be
handled quickly, so they get into the proof box before the chemicals
work out ; they should be light colored on the sides and have a nice
brown top when baked.
AMERICAN BUTTER CAKES.
These cakes are very popular in some restaurants. They are
baked and eaten like the English muffins. The cakes are a little
difficult to make, because the same mixture does not work always
alike. This is caused by the difference of the acidity of the milk,
which requires more or less soda or a small addition of cream of
tartar to give the cake the right degree of lightness.
Four pounds of flour, three pints of buttermilk, or sour milk;
half an ounce of bicarbonate soda ; half an ounce of salt ; two yolks
of eggs; two ounces of melted butter. Take half cake and half
bread flour, sift with the soda and salt three times, make a bay in
the center of the flour, put in two pints of the milk, the yolks and
the butter, draw in all the flour and add the rest of the milk to
make it like a slack smooth biscuit dough. Work this dough well,
dust some flour on the board and flatten the dough with the hands,
let it rest till the dough loses its springiness, then roll out to about
three quarters of an inch in thickness; let rest for a minute, then
cut out into biscuits with a three inch cutter; set the biscuits or
cakes in clothlined dusted boxes; cover and let rise in a cool place
till they are risen to about one inch of thickness, then lift out
carefully and bake on the hot plate or griddle on both sides like
the English muffins. These cakes are pulled or divided in halves
and well buttered and eaten while hot.
NEW YORK BUTTER CAKES.
Some other kinds of butter cake are made in New York but
they are not baked on the griddle, they are made in the follow-
ing manner: Take one quart of milk; one pound of flour; eight
ounces of butter, and eight ounces of sugar. Put the milk, sugar
and butter in a vessel on the fire and let it come to a boil; when
it is boiling add the sifted flour, stirring it in well with an egg
beater; take it off the fire and put in a wooden bowl; let cool till
you can hold your hand in it, then mix into it by degrees five whole
eggs and five yolks. Add to this mixture two and one-half pounds
of white bread sponge, or milk sponge, and sufficient flour to make
it like a tea biscuit dough. Let this dough rest, and prove on for half
102 Bakers' Bread.
an hour; roll into a sheet and cut into large biscuits; eggwash and
lay in granulated sugar; set on pans single; let it prove, and bake
to a nice color.
YEAST-RAISED GRIDDLE CAKES.
On the same principle as the English crumpets are made (given
in the foregoing recipes) a very nice yeast-raised wheat cake and
also corn cake can be made, which is far superior to the baking
powder raised griddle cake generally made in restaurants. The
buckwheat cakes are often raisd with yeast, but very few attempt
to raise wheat and corn cakes in this manner. It is a little more
troublesome, but it pays in the long run. Set a sponge in the even-
ing, or early in the morning, and when it is ready take for each
pound of flour used in the batter two ounces of sugar; two eggs,
and one ounce of melted butter. Thin it up with milk the thickness
of a soft batter ; give time to raise up again ; and bake like the other
griddle cakes. The ready batter should be kept cool to prevent
souring, and a spoonful of soda may be stirred in as a preventative.
YEAST-RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
Four pounds of buckwheat flour; four quarts of water; two
ounces of compressed yeast; half an ounce of salt; one cupful of
molasses ; four ounces of melted butter. Make a soft sponge or
batter with the flour, yeast and water, and let it stand over night.
In the morning add the other ingredients and make a medium
batter. A pinch of soda may be added ; and some people prefer a
little cornmeal or wheat flour in the batter. Bake on the griddle
like wheat cakes.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER.
Three pounds of buckwheat flour; one pound of wheat flour;
four ounces of baking powder ; a pinch of soda ; half an ounce of
salt; half a pint of molasses; four ounces of butter. Mix with
milk or water. Sift the baking powder with the flour; add the
molasses and soda dissolved in the water ; mix into a soft batter ;
then add the melted butter. Bake like the other griddle cake.
WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER.
Two pounds of flour; four ounces of sugar; two ounces of
baking powder; two ounces of melted butter; salt; four eggs; milk
to mix.
Doughnuts, etc. 103
CORN GRIDDLE CAKES.
One pound of cornmeal; one pound wheat flour; two ounces
of baking powder; four ounces of sugar, or syrups; a pinch of
salt ; four eggs ; two ounces of melted butter.
GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES.
One pound of graham flour; one pound of wheat flour; two
ounces of baking powder; four ounces of sugar or molasses; four
eggs ; two ounces of butter ; a pinch of salt. Mix the flour and bak-
ing powder and sift with the sugar and salt. Mix with milk to a
batter; add the beaten eggs and last the melted butter. Bake on a
well greased hot griddle or hot plate.
Rice cakes are made by adding boiled rice to the wheat cake
batter.
Yeasts, and Tkcir Use.
COMPRESSED YEAST.
Compressed yeast has taken the place of the old fashioned
stock yeast and of the potato ferment, but the latter is still used
by many bakers because they claim it makes better bread and keeps
it moister. Stock yeast and ferment-made breads have a better
flavor; and bakers using compressed yeast frequently use malt
extract, potato flour and also glucose to supply the lacking flavor.
They also use scalded cornmeal, and rice flour is added to keep
the bread moist.
Compressed yeast should always be used fresh; but in places
where it cannot be had regularly it may be kept for months if cov-
ered with cold water in a jar and the jar kept in a cool place. Be-
fore using, the water should be drawn off carefully, the amount of
yeast wanted taken out by means of a spoon, and fresh cold water
put on the remaining yeast. It is best kept in the ice box and the
water changed twice a week. If the water gets too warm the yeast
will spoil because it will rise to the top and be exposed to the air.
Yeast will also keep for a long time if slightly frozen. Before
using it should be thawed slowly in cold water.
Yeast develops best at a temperature of from 75 degrees to
90 degrees Fahrenheit. Excessive heat will spoil the yeast; there-
fore care has to be taken in dissolving the yeast to secure the right
temperature of the water before adding the yeast.
Compressed yeast is used for setting sponge and also for straight
dough. It is used to start stock yeast and to make potato ferment.
Virgin yeast or maiden yeast can be made in any quantity, but it
takes more time to make it, and even in distilleries some yeast of
previous batches is retained to be used for a start to the next batch.
MAIDEN YEAST.
Maiden yeast for bakers' use may be made on a small scale in
this manner : Take a handful of hops and boil in a quart of water
for half an hour. Strain off the hops and put in a strong bottle with
(104)
Yeasts. 105
a good handful of malt and a little sugar. Cork up and tie securely
with wire, and let it stand in a warm place for two days and two
nights ; then it will be ready to start about two gallons of stock with.
Other recipes for maiden yeast (or malt yeast) are added:
No. 2. Boil eight ounces of hops in four gallons of water for
one hour. Cool to 170 degrees Fahrenheit and mash with six pounds
of malt. Strain in a long narrow tub like an ice cream tub. Add
eight ounces of sugar and set (close-covered) in a warm place.
Fermentation begins in a day, and in forty-eight hours, or when
the fermentation ceases, it is ready for use. This makes a strong
malt yeast if stocked with two quarts of previous stock yeast, or
with four ounces of compressed yeast.
No. 3. Boil eight ounces of hops with four gallons of water for
half hour; cool to 165 degrees Fahrenheit; add ten pounds of malt,
and leave covered up for three hours. Strain off and wash the malt
with some cold water; add four ounces of salt, and cool to 80
degrees Fahrenheit. Stock away with two quarts of old stock, or
with four ounces compressed yeast.
No. 4. Boil four ounces of hops in four gallons of water for
half an hour; cool to 165 degrees Fahrenheit; add six pounds of
malt; cover for three hours; strain, and add three ounces of salt
and four ounces of sugar; cool to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and stock
with two quarts of stock or four ounces of compressed yeast. This
yeast will be ready in from thirty-six to forty-eight hours.
STOCK YEAST.
Stock yeast is used to start ferment, and generally in the pro-
portion of one quart of stock to four gallons of ferment. Three
recipes for making it are given:
No. 1. Boil half a pound of hops in six gallons of water for
one hour; strain and pour some of the water on four pounds of
flour to scald it. Cool till blood warm; rub the scalded flour fine;
add the rest of the hop liquor; add to this four pounds of malt
and one-half pound of sugar; when luke warm add one quart of
maiden yeast or four ounces of compressed yeast. Let this stand
from thirty-six to forty-eight hours without disturbing, and it will
be ready to make ferment with. This stock yeast will keep for a
month in a cool place, and can be used to make new stock with,
but then a quart should be taken out after it is ready, a teaspoonful
of baking soda added and put in a jar in the ice box.
No. 2. Boil half a pound of hops in six gallons of water for
106 Bakers' Bread.
one hour; strain and pour some of the water on four pounds of
flour to scald it. Cool till blood warm ; rub the scalded flour fine ;
add the rest of the liquor. Add to this four pounds of malt and
half a pound of sugar; cool till lukewarm and stock away with from
six to eight cakes of dry yeast, which has previously been dissolved
in warm water. Let this stand covered without disturbing from
twenty- four to thirty-six hours or until fermentation ceases, then
it is ready for use. Before using stir it up well. This yeast can be
used to set sponge with by taking two quarts to the pail of sponge;
or better to make potato ferment with it.
No. 3. Boil two ounces of hops for twenty minutes in one
gallon of water ; strain upon two pounds of flour and one pound of
malt. Mash and cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Stock with two
ounces compressed yeast, or two quarts of previous stock yeast, or
eight dry yeast cakes. Let it stand in a warm place undisturbed,
and it will be ready in twenty-four hours.
Recipes for malt and stock yeast. Both are stock yeasts,
but the malt yeasts are the stronger of the two. In the stock yeasts
a flour batter is used with a small quantity of malt, while in the malt
yeast only malt is used without the scalded flour. The stronger
malt yeast ripens the doughs more rapidly and are used for sponge
and dough when a short process is desired, the same as if using
compressed yeast. The stock yeasts with flour batter are also used
straight for sponges, but are more used in connection with a
potato ferment.
Try this recipe: Four to five ounces of hops, two pounds of
malt, three and one half pounds of flour, five gallons of water,
two ounces of salt, two quarts of stock yeast, or seven or eight yeast
cakes or three ounces of compressed yeast. Boil the hops and water
for one hour, strain and scald the flour with a part of the water
into a smooth paste. Cool the rest of the water to 165 degrees,
and add the malt, let it mash and cool down to 85 degrees Fahr.,
or about blood warm; strain and wash off the malt, add the flour
paste and the stock. Put away well covered in a warm place till
ready. If compressed yeast is used for stocking, it will be ready
in about thirty-six hours; stock yeast or dry yeast cakes in about
forty-eight hours.
The stock yeast is ready when the yeast settles to the bottom,
the liquid gets clear and fermentation ceases; then the salt may be
added, and the stock put in a cold place — cellar or ice-box, if
possible.
Yeasts. 107
Stock yeast will keep for a long time in an even, cool tempera-
ture, but atmospheric changes tend to weaken it more or less.
Most of the bakers prefer to make fresh stock yeast once or twice
a week. I think it is best to do so myself. I prefer compressed
yeast to stock away with, because it is the most reliable. It is
more uniform, and one can easily tell if it is fresh, which is not the
case with the dry yeast cakes, which lose much of their strength
when they get old.
When stock yeast gets old and weak, the hop liquid loses its
clearness, gets muddy, but it shows more in the ferment and the
sponge and does not rise as high as is usual with fresh stock. It
comes up more flat, looks like old sponge, is almost lifeless, and
throws off less gas. In the baked goods it appears in large irreg-
ular holes in the crumb and a dull reddish color in the crust.
FERMENT WITH COMPRESSED YEAST.
For one pail of ten quarts of ferment use two and one-half
pounds of potatoes, one pound of flour, two ounces of sugar and
one and one-half ounces of compressed yeast. Boil the potatoes
till done; put a part of the boiling water with the potatoes in
the tub, also the flour; scald this well, and mash to a fine, smooth
paste; add more water to thin up and cool to make a pail of ten
quarts; have it lukewarm, or about 75 degrees R; strain and add
sugar and yeast. Cover the tub close, and leave it without disturb-
ing for from ten to twelve hours. This ferment raises like a sponge
and falls when ready.
If a shorter fermentation is wanted the temperature can be
raised to as high as 95 degrees R, and more yeast can be used,
which would have the ferment ready in from five to six hours.
This ferment can be used for sponge and straight doughs. It
may be taken straight where a strong proof is required; for longer
sponges and doughs from ten to twelve quarts of water can be
added without fear.
It is essential to use only good, sound potatoes; the green and
sunburnt potatoes cause a bitter taste in the bread, and often injure
the yeast. In fact it would be better to peel the potatoes before
boiling, but this is ofen considered too much trouble, so the potatoes
should be washed and brushed clean and the water changed a couple
of times before boiling; and after they are mashed with the flour
and thinned up with more water, the skins should be strained off
before adding the yeast and starting the ferment.
108 Bakers" Bread.
POTATO FERMENTS.
No. I. — Wash well half a peck of potatoes; boil till done; put
three pounds of flour into the tub and one handful of sugar; put
in the hot potatoes and part of the water ; mash to a paste ; thin and
cool with more water (luke warm) to make up two pails, and
stock away with two quarts of stock yeast. Cover and set aside.
This ferment will be ready in from twelve to twenty-four hours,
according to temperature. It will come up like sponge, and fall
when ready. It would answer to make stock yeast once a week
and save two quarts of it to stock the next week's batch, and make
ferment every day.
No. 2. — A good strong ferment can be made as follows:
Wash one pail of boiled potatoes and mix with four pounds of
flour and eight ounces of sugar ; thin up with two pails of water ;
cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit; stock with two quarts of stock
yeast or four ounces of compressed yeast. Set in a warm place.
It will be ready in from eight to ten hours.
No. 3. — Take a well cleaned barrel, free from foreign sub-
stances, into which put four pounds of the best spring wheat flour
and four pounds of potato flour. Mix the two flours and put on a
little luke warm water, making a paste, thus avoiding lumps. Scald
this with three gallons of hot water by pouring it slowly and stead-
ily upon it, at the same time stirring it up thoroughly. Then pour
on twelve or thirteen gallons of cool to luke warm water (in summer
you can use cold water), giving the whole mixture a temperature
of about 85 to 90 degrees. While pouring on this water stir the
mixture well. Stock it away with one-half to three-quarters of a
pound of compressed yeast or else with two gallons of stock yeast.
Cover the barrel and allow it to stand undisturbed six or seven
hours or longer if desirable. After the ferment has ripened, use it
in the dough, adding twelve more gallons of water. This ferment
can be used either for straight or sponge doughs. For sponge
dough set the sponge with the ferment alone.
YEAST CAKE— DRY YEAST.
The dry yeast cakes which are in use are made out of a strong
stock yeast, thickened with cornmeal and dried so they can not
ferment. The strength of this yeast is very variable, when too old
the loss of strength is considerable. The cakes are useful in places
where no compressed yeast can be obtained, and are used by some
bakers to start stock yeast and also for ferment. If used to set
Yeasts. 109
sponge they work very slowly, and can be used only in a long sponge,
but if given time become as strong as the other yeast.
The best way to work with dry yeast is to dissolve the dry
cakes in warm water, and some yeast food, that is either sugar,
glucose, molasses or some boiled cornstarch or malt, and with some
flour make a soft batter and let it stand in a warm place till it
begins to work; then it is almost double in strength and ready for
stock, and also for ferment or sponge. When this dry yeast is
fresh, from four to five cakes are equal to one ounce of compressed
yeast.
Dry yeast cakes may be prepared in the following manner:
Take a good strong stock yeast and work into it enough of white
cornmeal to make a fine dry paste; roll out to about half an inch
of thickness and cut in one inch squares; dust with cornmeal and
put them to dry; turn over a couple of times till all the moisture is
expelled and keep in a dry place. These cakes will keep for months
in this manner.
Another Dry Hop yeast has rapidly come to the front recently.
It is made by a new process, and is used by many leading bakers.
This yeast is best to use in ferment like the old fashioned stock
yeast, and it may also be used with advantage in a long sponge.
Before using the yeast for ferment or sponge it should be dissolved
in warm water and given at least fifteen to twenty minutes to
melt and get ready. The ferment or sponge should be set in the
evening to be ready in the morning, giving it from 12 to 14 hours
to get ready. The ready ferment can be used for sponge or for
straight doughs, adding the same amount of water, or less for
quick sponge or doughs, and if the dry yeast is used in the sponge,
the sponge when ready can be used in the same manner as other
sponges, set with compressed yeast.
GENERAL SUGGESTIONS.
Many bakers object to the use of salt in the yeast because salt
checks fermentation. For this reason, if salt is used it is put in as
a preservative after the yeast is ready for use to prevent souring.
Sugar, glucose, molasses and malt extracts, potatoes and boiled
cornstarch are yeast foods, and are used with yeast to make it grow
and develop. For this reason it is added to yeast and ferment.
In using yeast for sponges and straight doughs many bakers
prefer to dissolve the yeast required for the batch in warm water
and with some flour work it into a soft batter, beat this up well
HO Bakers' Bread.
and let it rest for fifteen to twenty minutes in a warm place. This
sponge is then dissolved with the other water and made into the
sponge or dough.
Stock yeast is best started with a strong yeast, either previous
stock or compressed distillers' yeast. In case of emergency fer-
ment can be used to start stock yeast, and even some sponge can
be used ; but it is only used when there is no yeast to be had, because
it loses its strength.
In making yeast and ferments practice the greatest cleanliness,
to avoid contamination. Use a good strong yeast to start with, and
keep up an even temperature during the ripening process. Do not
disturb the yeast while this process is going on.
The Small Baker and Flours.
Bakers seldom use single or straight flours but prefer to use a
mixed brand or blend of different flours to obtain the best results
in baking. The blending of flours as it is done by the miller and
also by many large bakers gives a better flour and makes a better
bread. Blending is done on scientific principles. To be effective
it requires knowledge of chemistry, and also a complicated and
elaborate blending and sifting apparatus. Therefore it is best for
a small baker to use a standard brand of flour. The brand is the
trademark of the miller, and great care is taken to keep the flour
as much as possible on a uniform degree of excellence.
I do not propose to deal with special brands, but will refer only
to the flours in general use for baking. The strong northern spring
wheats are the best bread flours because they yield the most bread,
but have not as good a flavor as the hard Kansas winter-wheat
flours. For this reason they are blended into standard brands,
often in combination with a soft winter-wheat flour. In special
mixtures for Vienna the soft winter wheat flour is left out,
while for pan breads from one-half to two-thirds of winter
wheat grades can be used with success. In a three-
barrel mixture one part of Kansas patent flour, one of
Minnesota and one of Missouri winter wheat make a good all round
blend. For a five-barrel mixture one of spring wheat, two of Kansas,
one of clear spring and one of soft Missouri; and for a seven-barrel
mixture two of spring, three of Kansas, one of clear and one of soft
winter wheat flour.
Oklahoma has produced very good bread flour, similar to the
Kansas flour, which makes in combination with a strong spring
flour one of the best flavored breads. The California and Oregon
flours are also good bread flours, but do not possess the strength
of the flours named before. They require less age in the dough ;
the dough has to be taken on the first proof, and moulded and
panned at once. If treated like the stronger flours it would result
in a heavy, flat loaf.
(in)
H2 Bakers' Bread.
The Missouri winter wheat flour is the. best of the soft flours;
the Indiana and Ohio second; and the Michigan flour about third.
The soft winter wheat flours are preferable for cake-making,
and are also excellent for tea-biscuit. The strong spring flours are
not good for this purpose because they would take up more shorten-
ing and eggs, they would be more expensive and also make a dry
harsh cake. The soft flour with the same ingredients makes a
richer and moister cake and also a richer and shorter pie crust.
For puff paste a mixture of half spring and half soft flour is gener-
ally used. Also special blends are put up by the flour merchants
as cake flours.
There is a great variety of flours in use and even the best
known brands change with every new crop. This makes it difficult
to give a certain rule about fermentation and treatment in sponge
and doughs. The proving qualities of the flour change, and it re-
quires constant watching to get uniform results even with the same
brands of flour.
NEW FLOURS.
Much difficulty is experienced with new flours. Every year,
in the fall we hear of bakers having trouble with the flours. Most
of the complaints come from the southwest, where straight Kansas
and Territory flours are used. The breads fall in the oven, and
in some cases make a smaller loaf and do not take up the usual
quantity of water. Very few complaints come from the northwest,
where the strong spring wheat patents are used, and still fewer
complaints from eastern bakers who use more blended flours.
There will be always some difficulty with new flours, because
a good flour should have an age of at least six months to make
good bread. The old wheat flour always sells at a higher price at
harvest time against the new flour; it is preferred by the baker and
makes a better bread. The airing and drying of new flours is
sometimes resorted to by bakers as a remedy. A couple of days'
supply is emptied into a large bin or box near the oven and worked
over frequently to prevent it getting lumpy. Other bakers have the
storage room above the bake oven, where the flour is aired.
An old baker, used to Kansas flour, says: "Set a very slack
sponge with three ounces of compressed yeast, take it at the first
drop. Mix the dough medium; use twelve ounces of salt to
the pail, sugar and shortening as usual. Take the dough
young, and do not give too much proof in the pan,
Flours. 113
so it does not fall in baking." Another baker says: "Make
the dough tighter and use from two to three ounces more salt to
the pail, and the bread will stand up better without changing the
sponge." Still another remedy is a two-third sponge, that is two
pail sponge and one pail for doughing, with ten ounces of salt to
the pail; take the dough young. All these, remedies have been
used with success ; but conditions vary to such a degree in different
places, and different effects are produced on the doughs made out of
a variety of flours, that it requires constant watching and a little
experimenting to get good results.
TESTING FLOURS.
The usual test for flour is to take several samples and put them
side by side on a board or stiff paper and smooth them with a
knife or glass. In this manner the flour is tested for its freedom
from bran and for color. The strong flour has a yellow, golden
color and also a sharp, granular feel when rubbed between the fin-
gers, while the weaker flours show more of a white light color
and feel smooth and heavy in the hand. Another test of flours
is to take even quantities of the different samples, say one ounce
of each, and mix with even portions of water into a paste. The
flour which makes the stiffest paste is the strongest and yields the
most bread. There are other, more scientific tests, which require
a technical education and a great deal of practice.
FLOUR STORAGE.
Age improves flours, makes it whiter. An even, moderate tem-
perature of about 70 degrees Fah. is said to be the most favorable.
Modern bakeries usually have the flour storage room immediately
over the shop; the flour is taken up by elevators and is sifted
in the storage room and let down through a spout into the weigh-
ing vessel and from there into the mixer.
All flours should be sifted before using. The breads are im-
proved, made lighter; and foreign substances, such as strings, nails,
jute, etc., thrown out. Flour absorbs readily the odors of strong-
smelling substances, and should not be stored near kerosene oil,
cheese, etc., or near stables. This would give a bad taste to the
baked bread. When getting in flour all packages having been ex-
posed to dampness should be examined, because wet flour, if left
in the package, would become tainted.
114 Bakers' Bread.
GRAHAM AND WHOLE WHEAT FLOURS.
Graham flour is the unbolted meal of wheat; at least it should
be, but in many flours the best part is taken out and other, cheaper
grades, are substituted. Sometimes it is made of the poorer grades
of soft wheat with more barn mixed in it. If using this flour for
bread-making it is advisable to add a quantity of strong spring flour
to make good bread.
Whole wheat flour is made out of the better grades of wheat,
with half of the bran left out; this flour can be used without the
addition of other flours.
RYE FLOUR AND RYEMEAL.
The best rye flour is milled from the center of the berry, and
can be had from the miller if the price is paid for it. Generally
the clear and best grades are mixed, only the bran left out. If a good
grade of rye flour is mixed with a fifth part of good strong spring
wheat flour it will make an excellent rye bread. Rye flour is often
mixed with the cheaper wheat flours, and loses much of its original
flavor by this procedure. This is partly done to improve the bread-
making quality, to make a larger, lighter loaf.
Ryemeal is used for the German rye bread called pumpernickel,
it is all of the rye berry with the bran in it, like the graham flour.
When used for bread, sifted rye flour is added and also some wheat
flour, to make a lighter bread.
Miscellaneous.
VARIOUS KINDS OF BREAD FROM ONE SPONGE.
Set a sponge as usual, medium firm, with five gallons of water
from 6 to 8 ounces of yeast, at a temperature of 75 deg. Fahrenheit.
This sponge will be ready and drop in about three hours ; but the
sponge may be set at a cooler temperature,, say 65 deg. Fahrenheit,
and with about 3 to 4 ounces of yeast to be ready in the morning.
The sponge is ready when it begins to fall.
One gallon of sponge dough weighs from 18 to 20 pounds.
Take from the ready sponge say 20 pounds for rolls and buns,
add 1 quart of warm milk, 20 ounces of sugar, from 1 to 2 pounds
of lard and 2 ounces of salt. Make a medium firm dough; let it
come up and work over; let it come again, and make up in buns
and rolls.
For milk and Vienna bread take out 20 pounds of sponge, add
half a gallon of milk, four ounces of salt and half a pound of lard,
and proceed in the same way as with the roll dough.
To make coffee cake take 10 pounds of sponge. l/2 pint of warm
milk, 10 eggs, 1% pound of sugar, il/2 pound of butter and lard,
flavor and mace. This would leave from the five gallon sponge just
about 2l/2 gallons. Now we put on the remaining sponge 2V2 gal-
lons of water at a temperature of 75 deg. Fahrenheit. This would
make 5 gallons ; add 1 pound of salt or about 3 ounces for each
gallon, and break up the sponge and water. We proceed now to
take from this broken sponge for graham bread and rye bread, and
leave the rest for the pan and French bread.
Measure out one gallon, adding one pint of molasses and four
ounces of lard for graham bread and make dough with graham
flour.
Take one gallon for rye bread, adding some caraway seed and
dough with rye flour.
(us)
Tl6 Bakers' Bread.
Take one gallon for French bread, making a slack dough with
wheat flour. The remaining two gahons may be made into pan
breads, adding from twelve ounces to one pound of sugar and lard
for cream bread, or about half of that amount for ordinary pan
breads.
The rolls, coffee cake and rye bread require a good heat and
can be made ready first; the other doughs can be made to come
slow, so it can be got ready for the oven in the succession it should
be baked.
GERMAN PUFFS OR POP-OVERS. (WINDBEUTEL.)
One quart of skimmed milk, eight eggs, twenty ounces of winter
wheat flour, one small teaspoonful of salt. Break the eggs, add the
salt and beat together till the white and yolks are separated, add
half of the milk, then beat in the sifted flour, add the rest of the
milk and beat well into a creamy batter. Bake in deep, well
greased muffin cups, fill about half and bake in a moderate heat
or about 350 deg. Fahrenheit. It takes about thirty minutes to
bake these muffins. These muffins are one of the baking curiosities;
they require no baking powder and rise high above the moulds
and look like the well known cream puffs. They are a great deli-
cacy when eaten fresh from the oven with good butter, but lose
much of their goodness when cold. At clubs and restaurants these
muffins are well liked, the batter can stand for some hours after
it is made and the muffins can be baked in small quantities during
meal hours.
The mixture can be made with from four to six eggs to the
quart of milk, but eight eggs is the original recipe. The batter
must be very thin to make them right, and more milk may be
required if a strong flour is used.
BEATEN BISCUITS.
These biscuits are well known in the southern states and are
made by many bakers and also in hotels and families. The Mary-
land or Virginia biscuit is made of water and is like the well
known water cracker in size. The other biscuit is made with milk
and is of smaller size; both contain shortening. The Maryland
biscuit is about two and one-quarter inches in diameter, and the
other beaten biscuit is of a smaller size — about one and one-half
Miscellaneous. 117
Inches in diameter. I have used a good Missouri or Tennessee winter
wheat flour for these biscuits. A biscuit just like the southern
beaten biscuit, and which has become quite popular, was intro-
duced in northern cities by an enterprising Chicago woman. She
started to make the biscuits at her home on a small scale and sold
them to families and hotels. The demand increased rapidly and
after some time she had to move to larger quarters to supply the
increasing demand. This was about ten years ago. At the present
time her biscuits are sold everywhere as Bailey's Beaten Biscuits.
These biscuits keep well, but are better if fresh made.
Both biscuits require a firm dough. The dough is beaten and
folded over till it blisters. A large heavy club, or a heavy rolling-
pin is used for this purpose. When larger quantities are made, a
break, (or roller) is used.
MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT.
Take one pound of old dough left over from baking, thin this
up with one pint of water, add one teaspoonful of salt and four
ounces of butter or lard melted. Mix all together with more flour
into a firm dough. Beat till it blisters, if it breaks before blister-
ing, give some time to recover then beat again, the process requires
from fifteen to twenty minutes.
Form in a long roll, break or cut in pieces, mould round on the
table and let rest well covered with moist cloth to recover, flatten
each biscuit and set on pans and let rest again, press each one down
in the center, prick with the fork or with the docker and bake in
a good oven.
SOUTHERN BEATEN BISCUIT.
Take two pounds of flour, two ounces of lard, a good pinch of
salt and mix with milk into a medium firm dough. Beat this
dough till it blisters; let it rest well covered. Roll out into a sheet
one-third of an inch thick. Let it rest and recover. Cut with a
small cutter, not more than two inches in diameter; put on pans;
prick and bake in a medium heat to a very light fawn color.
The dough should be kept moist during the rest to prevent
drying out, and they are best beaten on cloth with very little flour
used for dusting j this gives the biscuit a nice clear color in baking.
Macninery in tke Small Bakery.
Many small bakeries have found it profitable to use labor-
saving machines. A flour-sifter is the first necessity, because a
well sifted flour assures a better dough, a healthier fermentation,
and keeps out foreign substances such as strings, jute, nails, etc.
A dough mixer is used by many bakers who use less than a barrel,
of flour per day, and even the moulding machine has proved a
paying investment in these bakeries. By the use of such machines
the work is made easy for the employee, while at the same time
it gives independence to the employer. The doughs are made bet-
ter by machine than they are made by hand, doing the work more
quickly; the moulding machine makes a better and more uniform
loaf of a finer grain and texture.
Naturally when changing from hand-work to machine-work
it is necessary to fit the process to the new conditions by installing
a system to make the doughs a certain temperature and consistency,
by weighing the flour and water and using the proper temperature.
A little close observation and experience will teach the baker in
a few days how to work and use such machines. In places where
electricity can be had the electric motor is considered the most
economical to use, with an individual motor for each machine.
The next best motive power is the gas or gasoline or oil engines
which are used in many bakeries.
C118)
Tke Use of Malt Extract.
Bakers use malt extract, malt flour and yeast foods to im-
prove the flavor and add moisture to the bread; these preparations
also stimulate and quicken fermentation, saving sugar and lard.
Many prominent bakers have used and are still using malt extract
since it was introduced about twenty years ago with success.
Malt extract affects both yeast and flour; it acts differently with
various flours, because some flours ferment more rapidly than
others. Malt extracts differ in diastatic strength which is given
from 40 to 160 degrees on the Lintner scale. A 60-degree ex-
tract is used by some bakers, while others prefer the 120-degree
grade. Half a pint or half a pound of the 60-degree extract is
used for the 12-quart pail, or from V/2 pounds to 2 pounds for
100 pounds of strong bread flour; 2*/* pounds per barrel is about
right to use, and when using the stronger (120-degree) grade the
amount should be reduced by half. When a weaker flour is used
bakers prefer an extract of a lower diastatic strength or a smaller
quantity of the stronger extracts, as an excessive use of extract
(especially with weak flours) causes too much moisture in the
crumb— makes it sticky and clammy. As said above, the results
vary with different flours; so it will be seen that the same quantity
of extracts cannot be used for all kinds of flour; it must be used
with discretion to obtain the best results.
MALT BREAD.
The following formulas are for short straight doughs for breads
similar to "Butter Krust," "Butter-Nut," "Buster Brown," etc. :
The flour used in one bakery for this bread consists of from
two-thirds to three-fourths of spring patent and one-third to one-
fourth of soft winter wheat patent flour. Dough-room temper-
ature : 78 to 82 degrees.
Flour 196 pounds; yeast food flour 3 pounds; water 122
pounds; dry milk 2 pounds; compressed yeast 2 to 2l/2
pounds; salt 2yA pounds; sugar 3 pounds; malt extract \y2
pounds; lard or oil 3}4 pounds.
(119)
120 Bakers' Bread
Dissolve the yeast in one gallon of water of 85 degrees Fahrenheit,
with the yeast food and extract, and set aside for 10 minutes.
Put the salt, sugar and dry milk in the mixer with the rest of the
water, let the mixer run for a few minutes to dissolve the milk,
salt and sugar and let in the flour. When the flour is partly
mixed add the yeast mixture, and (when well incorporated) the
melted lard or oil. The time of mixing in high-speed mixer may
require from 16 to 20 minutes; in a slow speed machine from
23 to 35 minutes.
The dough, when taken from the mixer, should be about 78
degrees. Let the dough lie for 2V2 hours, then, fold over the
sides, (do not punch down) ; let the dough come up again for
\y2 hours; give a good punching, let it stand one hour more and
punch well again; let it rest for one-half hour more; take to the
divider' in six hours; then from divider to rounder and proofer;
in the proofer the loaves are given 15 to 16 minutes, then are con-
veyed to the moulder, put in pans, placed in racks which are
wheeled into the proofing chamber, where the loaves are proved
with some steam. When proved they are cut or left plain, as the
case may be, and baked with steam in the oven. If the scaling
and moulding is to be done by hand, the dough should be taken
in about Sl/2 hours. When all strong flour is used the dough
should be given more age. Fast speed mixers increase the temper-
ature during mixing; therefore the temperature of the water
should be reduced accordingly.
MALT BREAD, NO. 2.
Flour 100 pounds; water about 7l/2 gallons; malt extract
W2 pounds; yeast 12 ounces to 1 pound; dry milk X1/?.
pounds; salt V/2 pounds; lard or oil \l/2 pounds.
Dissolve the malt extract in one gallon of water from 85 to 90
degrees Fahrenheit and add from 8 to 10 pounds of flour to make
a soft dough; let it stand from 30 to 45 minutes; dissolve the
yeast in a little water and add to the batter about 5 minutes before
making the dough. Add the other ingredients as usual, and pro-
ceed with the dough as given in the previous recipe. This method
makes a sweet loaf with a good malt flavor. I have used the
recipe without the milk and have added 2 pounds of oil and one
pound of sugar which makes a fine cream loaf with a good flavor.
Malt Extract. 121
MALT BREAD NO. 3.
12 quarts water; 5 to 6 ounces yeast; 8 ounces malt ex-
tract; 10 ounces salt; 6 to 8 ounces of lard or oil, about
42 pounds of patent flour (more or less according to
strength) ; from 4 to 6 ounces of sugar may be added, but
can be left out; 8 ounces of dry milk.
Dissolve the extract in one quart of warm water; then put in the
dissolved yeast; put the salt, sugar and milk in the remaining
water — tempered to give the dough the right degree, and mix in
the flour; when the flour is partly mixed in add the yeast and ex-
tract, and last the melter lard or oil. Let the dough come up to
the turn or until it will not rise any higher; then work over; give
it one more hour; work over again; give it three-quarters of an
hour; work over again; then put on the bench, scale and mould
in the pans. A dough set at about 80 degrees with corresponding
shop temperature should be ready for the bench in from 5^ to
6 hours — depending on the strength of the flour used.
MALT EXTRACT AS A YEAST-SAVER.
Some bakers use the following formula on account of the
saving of yeast:
6 pounds of lard; 2V2 pounds yeast; 4 pounds yeast food
flour or cornflakes; 3 pounds malt extract or malt flour;
9 pounds of sugar; 500 pounds of flour; 294 pounds of
water.
The yeast, malt, and yeast food flour or cornflakes are mixed
with one gallon of water at 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, one hour
before being used in the mixing. This makes a strong ferment
which starts up an active fermentation in the dough. This formu-
la has been paid for by many bakers, and has been kept secret
for a long time.
JUL 5 1913
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