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BANCROFTS 


ToURIST^S  GUIDE: 


•  YOSEMITE.^ 


SAN   FRANCISCO   AND   AROUND    THE   BAY, 
( SOUTH. ) 


SAN  FRANC/SCO  : 
A.    L.    BANCROFT  6-    COMPANY, 
1871.      <  • 


ij^  ^ 


V^m 


1» 


;^^c  »eP*- 


Entertd  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  j'ear  187 1, 

By  A.  L.  BANCROFT  &  CO., 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


Bancroft's  Steam  Printing,  LithographbTg",  foigVaVing  aiid  Book-binding 
Establishment,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


CONTENTS. 


Preface, -       -    -  4 

Introduction, '  7 

Routes  and  Expenses, -      -      13-24 

YosEMiTE  Valley, '.      .    .  25 

The  Big  Trees,  Calaveras, 52 

Mariposa, 57 

Other  Groves, 67 


Bower  Cave, 


72 


Alabaster  Cave, 77 

Index  to  San  Pkancisco, 89 

San  Francisco, g^ 

Excursion  Routes, 205 

Sacramento, 232 

Stockton, 243 

Oakland, 209 

San  Jose, 212 

Mt.  Diablo, -  227 

Lake  Tahoe, 250 

Donner  Lake, 25 1 


265087 


PREFACE. 


This  is  a  Pocket  Guide  to  Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Big  Trees, 
with  the  best  routes  thither  and  thence.  It  also  includes  San 
P rancisco  with  the  cities,  towns,  caves,  mines  and  beaches  within 
a  hundred  miles  south  and  east  of  this  city. 

We  have  tried  to  make  it  accurate  and  reliable  in  all  state- 
ments of  routes,  distances,  time  required,  conveyances,  fares, 
hotels,  rates,  etc.,  making  a  snug,  neat  and  tasteful  book,  to  be 
sold  at  a  low  rate  on  all  overland  trains  and  ocean  steamers 
bound  hither,  meeting  all  tourists,  excursionists  and  travelers 
some  hundreds  of  miles  before  they  reach  San  Francisco,  posting 
them  on  all  the  most  attractive  spots  in  the  State,  and  answering 
in  advance  all  necessary  questions,  thus  enabling  them,  before 
setting  foot  in  the  city,  to  plan  their  excursions,  decide  upon 
routes,  choose  conveyances,  select  hotels,  and  calculate  expenses. 
And  then,  when  they  have  actually  been  over  the  whole  ground, 
and  thoroughly  tested  it,  find  everything  ^^just  as  the  book  said  J'"' 

True,  we  already  have  three  or  four  costly  volumes,  written 
for  a  similar  purpose,  but  we  claim  that  for  the  ordinary  use  of 
the  average  tourist  this  is  superior  to  any  or  all  of  them  in  at 
least  three  important  particulars: 

1st.  It  omits  all  tedious,  long-drawn,  and  unnecessarily  minute 
descriptions,  which  may  occasionally  suit  some  very  critical  or 
scientific  tourist,  but  whose  chief  value  is  to  guide  the  traveler's 
money  into  the  publisher's  pocket. 

2d.  It  contains  brief  descriptions  of  all  the  most  notable  curi- 
osities and  wonders  of  the  State.  Its  statements  are  drawn  from 
the  latest  official  scientific  sources,  or  taken  from  the  personal 


PREFACE. 


observation  and  actual  measurements  of  the  writer,  made  ex- 
pressly for  this  work. 

3d.  It  is  compact  and  economical  of  time,  space  and  money, 
none  of  which  the  tourist  usually  cares  to  waste  or  lose  or  throw 
away. 

The  public  have  called  for  it,  and  we  have  done  our  best  to 
respond,  with  the  material,  and  in  the  time,  at  our  command. 

That  it  contains  no  mistakes  we  do  not  claim,  but  that  it  in- 
cludes fewer  than  any  similar  book  we  confidently  affirm.  We 
have  availed  ourselves  of  every  practicable  source  of  reliable 
information  up  to  date,  June,  1871. 

In  a  new  and  fast-growing  State,  like  ours,  where  railroad 
companies  sometimes  lay  nearly  a  league  of  track  a  day,  it  is 
simply  impossible  that  any  publication  should  remain  perfectly 
accurate  in  every  particular,  even  for  twenty-four  hours  after  its 
issue. 

We  pledge  ourselves  to  disappoint  no  reasonable  expectation, 
and  shall  thankfully  receive  and  gratefully  appreciate  any  cor- 
rection or  later  information  which  any  traveler,  railroad,  stage 
or  saddle-train  agent,  or  hotel  manager,  will  kindly  commu- 
nicate. 

In  response  to  many  calls,  constantly  repeated,  and  now 
pressingly  urged,  we  offer  this  little  Common -sense  Hand-book 
Guide,  which  truthfully  tells  tourists  just 

Where  to  go  ;    How  far  it  is  ;    How  to  get  there  ; 

When  to  start  ;     Whom  to  stop  With  ; 
How  LONG  IT  takes;      and,  How  much  it  all  costs. 

San  Francisco,  Cal.,  June,  1871. 


YOSEMITE, 


You  are  going  to  Yosemite.  Of  course  you  are.  What  else 
did  you  come  to  California  for  ?  The  idea  of  a  man  in  his  right 
mind,  having  the  slightest  love  of  beauty,  grandeur  and  sublimity, 
coming  to  California  and  not  going  to  Yosemite!  W  hy,  it's  pre- 
posterous; it's  incredible;  it's  impossible.  We  may  as  well  dis- 
miss the  thought  at  once.     Of  course  you  go.     So  that's  settled. 

Now,  when  will  you  go  ?  If  you  have  means  and  are  sure  of 
time  to  see  all  the  wonders  and  beauties  which  the  State  offers, 
then  might  you  wisely  and  safely  leave  the  best  until  the  last; 
that  is,  reserve  Yosemite  for  your  final  trip  before  you  return. 
But,  lest  time  or  cash  should  fail,  or  sudden  summons  hasten 
your  departure,  it  is  wisest  and  safest  to  make  sure  of  it  at  once 
while  you  may.  It  would  never  do  to  go  back  East,  confront 
inquiring  friends,  and  have  to  humbly  confess  that  you  had  been 
to  California,  but  had  not  seen  Yosemite. 

Then,  how  shairyou  go.  If  you  are  fresh  and  strong,  with 
the  nerve  and  muscle  of  a  young  and  enthusiastic  college  pedes- 
trian, you  can  do  it  on  foot,  as  Bayard  Taylor  did  Europe.  It's 
the  most  independent  and  enjoyable  way  of  all  if  you  have  time 
and  disposition,  and  no  ladies  in  your  party.  If  you  should  vf'i^h. 
to  try  that,  get  a  copy  of  the  Overland  Monthly  for  July,  1870, 
turn  to  the  article  "  Yosemite  on  Foot,"  and  you  have  your  guide. 

If  you  haven't  time  or  ambition  to  distinguish  yourself  by  emu- 
lating Weston,  you  may  possibly  contemplate  an  excursion  on 
hoofs.  Several  parties  have  done  Yosemite  on  all  fours,  and 
report  a  tough  American  nag,  or  a  wiry  little  Mexican  mustang 
as  an  indispensable  auxiliary.  Parties  who  wish  to  avoid  the 
sense  of  dependence,  as  well  as  the  pecuniary  expense  of  hiring 


8  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

■ 

a  stable  horse,  frequently  buy  a  tough  native  horse  for  seventy- 
five  or  a  hundred  dollars,  use  him  for  the  entire  trip,  with 
no  expense  beyond  that  of  daily  feeding,  keep  him  until  they 
have  finished  their  tour,  and  then  sell  him  for  nearly  as  much, 
ii^gome  cases  even  more,  than  they  paid. 

Mounted  in  this  way  you  accomplish  a  sort  of  vicarious  pedes- 
trianism,  gladly  substituting  equine  hoofs  for  human  heels,  while 
the  animal  himself  rejoices  in  a  responsible  backer  in  the  bifur- 
cated person  of  your  bestriding  self  ;  or,  still  again,  it  may  be — 
it  probably  does  be,  as  our  little  four-year-old  says— that  you  are 
too  fashionably  lazy, — I  beg  pardon,  I  meant  to  say,  it  is  possi- 
ble that  you  have  inherited  a  constitutional  aversion  to  protract- 
ed exertion,  which,  by  long  indulgence,  has  quite  unfitted  you 
for  the  thoroughly  manly  or  womanly  pursuit  of  grandeur,  beau- 
ty, and  pleasure  in  the  saddle— chasing  health  on  horseback. 

One  other  way  remains,  before  you  fall  back  upon  the  fashiona- 
ble and  feeble  way  of  "  being  carried  ''  'in  the  regular,  orthodox 
and  popular  style,  which  suffers  you  to  attempt  no  personal  ex- 
ercise beyond  "  the  heavy  looking  on."  You  may  combine  sad- 
dle and  wagon  :  that  is,  take  a  strong  wagon,  carrying  tent, 
provisions  and  cooking  apparatus,  with  one  or  two  of  the  more 
unskillful  riders  on  the  seat,  while  the  others  in  the  saddle  re- 
volve as  equestrian  satellites  around. 

But  if  you  decide,  as  most  do,  and  as  you  probably  will,  to 
take  no  responsibility  and  cumber  yourself  with  no  care,  you  se- 
lect one  of  the  various  public  routes,  seek  out  its  agent,  make 
your  contract,  give  up  all  planning  and  providing  on  your  own 
part,  pay  over  your  coin,  take  your  tickets  for  the  round  trip, 
commit  yourself  to  one  of  the  various  lines  of  public  conveyances, 
dismiss  all  anxiety  and  give  yourself  up  to  receive  and  absorb  all 
the  pleasure  that  may  lie  along  the  route,  or  await  you  at  its  end. 

And  if  your  object  is  simply  enjoyment,  untroubled  by  exer- 
tion, and  unmixed  with  anxiety,  that  is,  undoubtedly,  the"  best 
way. 


YOSEMITE. 


You  are  in  San  Francisco,  at  the  Grand,  at  the  Occidental,  at 
the  Lick  House  or  the  Cosmopolitan.  In  their  luxurious  beds 
you  have  slept  off  the  fatigue  of  thirty-three  hundred  miles  across 
the  continent,  and  at  their  bountiful  tables  you  have  fed  yourself 
into  courage  and  spirit  for  new  and  further  enterprise.  Youiiave 
come  forth  so  fresh  and  brave  that  you  feel  ready  for  eight  thous- 
and miles  more,  straight  across  the  tranquil  Pacific  ;  or  climbing, 
unaided,  the  loftiest  vertebral  peak  of  that  spinal  range  which 
furnishes  the  backbone  of  the  continent.  Your  new  vigor  has  let 
off  its  frothy  effervescence  in  sundry  spasmodic  dashes  about  the 
city  and  around  its  suburbs.  You  have  driven  to  the  Cliff  House, 
interviewed  the  seals,  climbed  Telegraph  hill,  rusticated  at 
Woodward's,  spent  an  afternoon  at  Bancroft's,  crossed  to  Oak- 
land, inspected  Alcatraz  and  Fort  Point,  and,  in  short,  complet- 
ed the  little  day-trips  and  half-day  tours  which  so  restfully  en- 
tertain the  newly-arrived  traveler,  gradually  acclimate  him  to 
our  occidental  air  and  familiarize  him  with  our  cosmopolitan 
people.  You  feel  strong  and  fresh :  ready  for  the  grand  excur- 
sion. All  your  drawing-room  and  dining-table  suits  are  snugly 
packed  in  trunks,  folded  away  in  drawers  or  carefully  hung  in 
wardrobe  or  clothespress.  The  roughest,  strongest  and  warmest 
suit  in  your  possession  you  have  donned.  Specially  provide 
good  stout,  yet  easy,  boots  or  shoes,  with  the  softest  and  most 
comfortable  of  socks  or  stockings.  Remember  that  every  day 
brings  two  climates,  a  cool  or  even  cold  one  for  morning  and 
evening,  with  a  hot  and  dusty  noon  sandwiched  between.  Um- 
brellas and  rubber  blankets  you  won't  need,  though  a  good  trav- 
eling shawl  will  serve  you  frequently  and  well.  Stovepipe  hats 
are  an  abomination — a  hard  hat  of  any  shape,  first  cousin  to  it, 
and  the  extra  wide  brimmed  ladies'  picnic  hat,  closely  akin  to 
both.  Browns,  drabs  and  grays  are  your  best  colors  ;  linens  and 
woolens  your  best  materials  ;  fine  flannels  next  the  skin,  and 
especially  provide  plenty  of  something  soft  and  thick  to  come 
between  you  and  the  horse,  during  the  necessary  miles  in  the 


BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


saddle.  This  last  is  not  a  matter  of  choice,  but  of  necessity. 
Calculate  to  spend  at  least  -two  weeks  in  the  valley,  and  allow 
two  or  even  three  days  each  way  for  your  trip  in  and  out.  Of 
course  you  can  go  faster  and  quicker  if  you  wish  or  must,  but  of 
all  Recursions  imaginable,  Yosemite  most  needs  deliberation  and 
leisure.  These  are  precisely  the  two  things  of  which  the  aver- 
age American  tourist  has  the  least.  Whence  it  has  happened 
that  very  few  indeed,  especially  of  our  own  countrymen,  have 
ever  really  visited  Yosemite.  Hundreds  have  dashed  in,  plunged 
around  and  rushed  out.  Horace  (}reeley  staid  about  as  long  as  it 
would  take  him  to  rush  off  one  of  his  patent  chain-lightning, 
hieroglyphic  Tribune  editorials. 

He  rode  in  at  midnight,  reached  his  lodging  at  one  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  too  tired  to  eat,  and  too  sore  to  tell  of  it;  went  to 
bed,  sick,  sore  and  disgusted.  Up  late  next  morning,  so  lame 
he  could  hardly  sit  in  his  saddle,  hobbled  hurriedly  around  three 
or  four  hours,  and  was  on  his  way  out  again  at  a  little  afternoon. 

Many  of  the  grandest  sights  he  didn't  even  catch  the  remotest 
glimpse  of;  those  he  did  see  he  just  glanced  at,  too  weary  to 
appreciate  their  slightest  beauty,  and  too  hurried  to  allow  him- 
self time  to  begin  to  grow  to  the  true  scale  of  their  grandeur; 
and  having  given  to  the  whole  valley  about  one  quarter  of  the 
time  necessary  to  thoroughly  study,  intelligently  enjoy  and 
qeartily  appreciate  the  least  of  its  wonder-,  he  has  the  presump- 
tion to  fancy  he  has  ''been  to  Yosemite."  The  fact  is,  he  never 
really  saw  a  single  object  about  the  valley,  except,  possibly,  the 
giant  cliff,  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah,  which,  as  he  says,  looked  as  if  it 
might  have  leaned  over  and  buried  him  beneath  its  vastness,  and 
which,  as  I  say,  would,  doubtless,  have  done  so  speedily,  had  it 
known  that  the  shabby  rider  who  shambled  along  under  its  base 
that  moonlight  night,  sore  at  one  end,  sleepy  at  the  other,  and 
sick  all  the  way  between,  was  going  to  rush  off  and  talk  so  inad- 
equately, unworthily  and  even  untruthfully  about  objects  which 
no  human  eye  ever  did  see  or  could  see  in  the  condition  of  his 


YO  SEMITE, 


sleep-oppressed  optics  on  that  slumbrous  August  morning.  He 
has  the  cheek  to  declare  that  the  fall  of  Yosemite  is  a  humbug. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  know  what  the  fall  thought  of  Greeley. 
One  thing  is  sure,  all  earlier  and  later  visitors  unite  in  the  opin- 
ion that  the  only  humbug  in  the  valley  that  year  went  out  of  it  in 
his  saddle  about  three  o'clock  on  that  drowsy  August  afternoon, 
and  has  never  since  marred  the  measureless  realities  which  he 
sleepily  slandered.  The  simple  fact  is,  Mr,  Greeley  saw  the 
little  which  he  did  see  three  or  four  months  too  late  in  the  sea- 
son. If  he  ever  comes  again,  at  the  right  time,  and  stays  to 
really  see  the  wonders  of  the  valley,  he  will  be  heartily  ashamed 
of  what  he  then  wrote,  and  freely  pardon  his  present  critic. 
Meantime,  exit  H.  G.  We  bear  thee  no  malice.  The  soul  that 
can  see  and  feel  as  little  as  thine  did  in  Yosemite  provokes  no 
anger,  but  only  sorrow  and  compassion.  For  the  sake  of  thy 
sore  and  raw  and  sadly-pummeled  body,  we  freely  forgive  the 
terribly  shaken  soul  that  inhabited  it  on  that  memorable  midnight 
when  horse  and  saddle  maliciously  united  in  assault  and  battery 
on  th^  most  sensitive  portion  of  thine  editorial  corporosity .  Vale, 
Greeley,  vale.  The  next  time  thou  comest  hither,  wear  what 
hat  thou  likest  and  match  it  with  what  suit  may  please  thee 
best,  but  if  thou  lovest  life,  and  wouldst  see  good  days,  tell,  oh 
Horace,  tell  the  truth. 

Pardon  our  digression  to  Greeley.  We  have  spent  so  much  time 
on  him,  not  because  he  occasionally  scribbles  illegible  manu- 
script for  a  new  and  struggling  paper  in  a  small  eastern  village, 
but  because  he  came  faster,  arrived  sorer,  stayed  fewer  hours, 
saw  less  of  the  valley,  and  slandered  it  more  than  any  one  else 
has  ever  attempted. 

Olive  Logan  spoke  disparagingly  of  the  Yosemite  Fall,  but  the 
Fall  is  still  there.  She  adds  some  slanderous  remarks  about  the 
conduct  of  the  drivers  along  the  route,  to  which  the  only  fitting 
answer  would  be  these  questions:  "  When  a  man  or  a  woman 
all  alone  in  a  room,  looks  into  a  mirror,  and  doesn't  see  a  gentle- 


12  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

man  or  lady  reflected  therein — whose  fault  is  it?  Is  the  difficulty 
in  the  glass  or  va. front  of  it  ? 

But  let  us  start.  From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  there  are 
three  routes.  All  of  them  carry  one,  first,  to  or  near  Stockton, 
which  city  we  reach  by  rail  or  river,  and  all  of  them  bring  us,  at 
last,  into  the  valley  by  one  of  the  only  two  trails  which  enter  it. 
Between  the  outer  ends  of  these  trails  and  Stockton,  or  vicinity, 
lie  the  various  intermediate  places  or  way  'stations  which  have 
given  name  to  the  routes  which  pass  through  them,  and  concern- 
ing which  the  tourist  chiefly  needs  reliable  information. 

Looking  upon  any  good  map,  not  drawn  in  the  exclusive  inter- 
est of  some  one  of  these  .  rival  routes,  you  can  easily  see  for 
yourself,  spite  of  all  agents'  representations,  which  is  the'  most 
direct  way,  geographically  or  topographically . 

We  now  mention  these  in  regular  order,  reckoning  from  north 
to  south;  that  is,  down  the  map,  as  we  used  to  say  at  school.  For 
convenience,  we  may  distinguish  the  three  routes  as  the  upper  or 
north  route,  the  middle  route,  and  the  lower  or  south  route. 

Big  Oak  Flat  Route. 

The  upper  or  north  route  is  commonly  called  the  Big  Oak  Flat  ^ 
or  the  Hutchings  route.  If  we  go  by  this,  we  can  either  go  di- 
rectly into  the  valley,  or  make  a  detour  by  way  of  the  Calaveras 
Big  Trees.  The  following  table  showing  distances,  times  and 
conveyances,  by  the  straight  and  quick  way. 

TO   YOSEMITE   VALLEY — DIRECT. 


From 

To 

Miles. 

Hours. 

By 

San  Francisco 

Stockton 

90 
28 
24 
14 
32 
II 

10 
4 

4 

Steamer. 

Milton 

Car. 

Milton               

Chinese  Camp 

Garrote 

ramerack 

Yosemite 

Stage. 

Chinese  Camp 

Garrote 

Tamarack 

Saddle. 

. 

199 

27% 

BIG  OAK  FLAT  ROUTE. 


By  the  above  way  you  leave  San  Francisco  at  four  o'clock  p.m., 
from  the  vs^harf,  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  by  one  of  the  California 
Pacific  Railroad  Company's  steamers  for  Stockton.  You  have  a 
fine  afternoon  and  sunset  view  of  San  Francisco,  the  shipping, 
Oakland,  Yerba  Buena  and  Alcatraz  Islands,  the  Golden  Gate, 
Angel  Island,  Mount  Tamalpais,  San  Quentin,  San  Pablo  Bay, 
Vallejo,  Mare  Island,  Suisun  Bay,  Benicia,  Martinez,  and  Mount 
Diablo.  Those  who  have  crossed  the  continent  by  rail  find  this 
sail  a  pleasant  change.  They  avoid  the  dust,  get  a  good  night's 
rest  on  the  steamer,  reach  Stockton  at  from  two  to  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  breakfast  at  six,  and  at  seven  take  the  cars  of  the 
Stockton  and  Copperopolis  Railroad  from  the  station  near  the 
landing.  We  reach  Milton,  twenty-eight  miles,  at  8.20,  find  the 
stage  waiting,  and  immediately  embark,  and  are  off  at  once. 
The  road  lies  through  a  mountainous  country,  well  timbered. 
The  air  is  clear  and  invigorating,  and  the  scenery  sublime.  The 
road  is  good,  the  stages  first-class,  and  the  drivers  obliging. 

About  one  we  reach  Chinese  Camp,  and  after  twenty-four 
miles  staging  are  ready  for  a  half-hour's  rest  and  a  good  dinner; 
or,  we  may  wait  for  both  until  we  reach  Garr'ote,  fourteen  miles 
farther.  Here  either  of  two  gooS  hotels  will  feed  and  lodge  us. 
Next  morning  we'd  better  dress  for  the  horse-back  ride  in  the  af- 
ternoon. Lay  aside  all  superfluous  luggage  and  pack  your  extra 
nice  clothing,  if  you  have  been  foolish  enough  to  bring  any,  in 
your  valise.  A  small  hand-satchel  you  can  pack  behind  you  on 
the  horse,  o»-take  it  before  you.  Let  it  be  as  small  and  snugly- 
packed  as  possible.  One  word  further,  and  a  most  important 
one,  especially  to  ladies.  Calculate  to  ride  astride,  and  dress 
for  it.  You  can  wear  a  long  skirt  to  Tamarack,  but  beyond  it  is 
a  nuisance.  A  woman  who  has  only  one  leg,  or  has  two  on  one 
side,  may  have  some  excuse  for  the  unnatural,  ungraceful,  dan- 
gerous and  barbarous  side-saddle.  The  last  word  was  prompted 
by  rememlfcring  the  raw  back  of  the  beautiful  horse  which  car- 
ried Miss  Dix  into  the  valley,  under  the  old,  conventional,  side- 


14  BANCROI^T'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

saddle.  The  lady  is,  unquestionably,  a  noted  philanthropist, 
but  that  poor  horse  probably  never  suspected  it.  Anna  Dickin- 
son rode  in  man-fashion,  arrived  fresh  and  strong,  and  so  did  her 
horse.  Ask  her  animal  if  he  wants  to  carry  that  lady  again  and 
he'll  never  say  nay  (neigh).  On  a  trip  like  this  the  side-saddle 
is  barbarous  to  the  horse  and  dangerous  to  the  rider.  The  on^y 
good  thing  about  it  is  that  it  jolts  and  racks  and  strains  and  tires 
thft  rider  so  outrageously,  that  it  is  fast  converting  many  women 
to  the  sensible  and  safe  way. 

From  Tamarack  Flat  the  road  dwindles  to  a  trail,  winds 
among  pine  trees,  crosses  an  occasional  rivulet,  commands  a  fine  ' 
outlook  through  the  trees,  now  and  then,  and  finally,  almost  be- 
fore you  know  it,  brings  you  to  the  brink  of  the  valley.  Thence 
let  your  horse  have  his  head.  He'll  take  care  of  himself  and  you 
too — land  you  safely  at  the  foot  of  the  trail,  and  deposit  you 
at  Hutchings'  by  five  or  six  o'clock,  in  good  time  for  the  am- 
ple dinner  which  will  be  waiting. 

If  you  wish  to  take  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  on  your  way,  youn 
can  do  so,  either  going  or  coming,  by  taking  the  same  general 
route  as  far  as  Milton,  to  which  place  the  times,  distances,  and 
conveyances  are  the  same  as  in  the  table  already  given. 
From  Milton  you  take  stage  through  Murphy's  to  Sperry  &  Per- 
ry's hotel,  where,  you  dine  in  the  very  shadows  of  the  Big  Tree 
grove.  Having  stayed  among  the  vegetable  monsters  as  long  as 
you  can,  you  return  thence  by  stage  to  Sonora,  twenty-nine  miles; 
time  six  hours;  from  Sonora  to  Garrote,  also  by  stage,  twenty- 
five  miles  in  five  hours,  and  then  you  strike  the  same  road  which 
you  would  travel  by  going  directly  in,  so  that  the  conveyances, 
time  and  distances  of  the  former  table  will  also  serve  you  hence. 
As  we  said  a  few  paragraphs  back,  these  two  routes  are  not  really 
separate  and  distinct  routes,  as  nearly  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  on  the  western  end,  and  about  fifty  miles  at  the  eastern 
end,  are  the  same  in  both.  The  time  occupied  in  gwing  or  com- 
ing by  the  way  of  the  trees  is  twelve  and  one  half  hours  more 


COULTERVILLE  ROUTE. 


than  by  the  direct  route,  and  the  fare  is  seven  dollars  more,  be- 
sides, of  course,  the  expense  of  one  night's  lodging  and  two  meals 
more  on  the  route,  than  will  be  necessary  to  one  going  directly 
in. 

The  second  route,  the  midd)e  one,  is  the 

Coulterville  Route. 

so  named  from  the  principal  town  through  which  it  passes,  which 
took  its  own  name  from  General  Coulter,  who  still  manages  the 
business  of  the  line. 

By  this  route  you  leave  San  Francisco  at  four  P.  m,  by  cars  on 
Central  Pacific  Railroad  ;  change  cars  at  Lathrop  for  Modesto, 
arriving  same  evening.  Remain  over  night  at  the  Ross  House, 
James  Cole,  proprietor,  and  leave  by  stage  at  eight  A.  M.  for 
Coulterville,  forty-eight  miles,  ten  hours,  arriving  at  six  P.  M. 

You  dine  at  La  Grange,  twenty-eight  miles  from  Modesto. 
Stay  all  night  at  Wagner's  Hotel,  Coulterville,  where  supper, 
lodging  and  breakfast  cost  you  $2,50. 

Next  morning  rise  early,  take  a  good  hot  breakfast,  leave 
Coulterville  at  five  o'clock  for  Gobin's  Ranch  at  Crane's  Flat, 
thirty  miles,  where  you  are  due  at  twelve.  Dine  at  Gobin's  for 
$1.00.  At  one  o'clock  leave  Gobin's  by  saddle  train,  arriving  at 
Black's  Hotel,  in  the  valley,  fifteen  miles,  at  six  P.  M.,  thus 
taking  it  leisurely,  especially  down  the  mountain-side  trail  into 
the  valley,  where  no  animal  can  go  fast  and  keep  his  feet,  and 
no  rider  can  hurry  and  save  his  neck. 

Returning,  leave  the  valley  at  six  in  the  morning,  and  reach 
Gobin's,  Crane  Flat,  at  eleven,  taking  five  hours,  the  same  time 
as  when  going  in,  as  horses  can  go  full  as  fast  up  the  trail  as 
down.  Dine  at  Gobin's,  as  when  going  in.  Leave  Crane  Flat  at 
twelve,  and  reach  Coulterville  at  half  past  five,  where  the  same 
hotel,  Wagner's,  accommodates  you  with  supper,  lodging  and 
breakfast,  and  at  the  same  rates  as  before. 

Leave  Coulterville  at  six  next  morning,  and  drive  twenty-eight 
miles  to  Roberts',  where  we  dine,  at  noon.     From  Roberts'  to 


i6  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Modesto  is  twenty  miles.  We  are  due  at  Modesto  at  from  four 
to  half  past  four  P.  M.  From  Modesto  we  may  take  cars  for 
Stockton  and  Sacramento*,  at  five,  and  go  through  direct  to  either 
of  those  places.  But  if  we  wish  to  return  to  San  Francisco,  we 
stop  at  Lathrop,  in  a  station  where  an  excellent  dinner  or  supper 
can  be  had  for  75  or  50  cents;  and  wait  until  eleven  p.  M.,  when 
a  freight  train,  with  sleeping  car  attached,  comes  along,*  and 
bring  us  to  San  Francisco  at  half  past  seven  next  morning. 

This  route  gives  regular  rest,  takes  one  through  a  beautiful  and 
picturesque  country,  from  the  fact  that,  after  striking  the  foot- 
hills, it  lies  along  the  dividing  ridge  Ijetween  the  Tuolumne  and 
Merced  rivers.  On  the  east  lies  the  Sierra  Nevada,  with  Castle 
Peak,  Mount  Dana,  and  other  prominent  points,  while  westward 
it  commands  a  view  of  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  Coast 
Range.  To  this  may  be  added  the  fact  that  as  a  good  part  of 
the  road  runs  east  and  west,  and  as  the  prevailing  winds  are 
northerly,  the  dust  is  blown  away  to  one  side  instead  of  along 
with  you. 

Another  and  very  great  advantage  of  this  route  is  that,  from 
and  after  the  fifteenth  of  this  month,  June,  1871,  it  will  run  stages 
to  the  very  brink  of  the  valley,  leaving  but  two  and  a  half  miles 
of  saddle  riding  to  the  valley  below,  and  only  seven  miles  on 
horseback  to  the  hotels.  This  same  advantage  will  then  be  true, 
also,  of  the  Big  Oak  Flat,  or  Hutchings'  route,  which  enters  the 
valley  by  the  same  trail. 

Mariposa  Route. 

This  is  the  lower,  or  southern  route,  taking  its  name  from 
that  of  its  chief  town,  Mariposa,  once  famous  as  the  seat  of  Fre- 
mont's famous  "estate,"  with  its  gold  mines  of  supposed  ex- 
haustless  wealth. 

This  route  takes  one  by  California  Pacific  Railroad  from 
San  Francisco,  through  Lathrop  to  Modesto,  one  hundred 
and    one   miles  ;   thence  ninety -six   miles   of  staging,   through 


MOKELUMNE  HILL  ROUTE.  17 

Snelling's,  Hornitos,  Bear  Valley,  and  White  &  Hatch's 
(stop  over  night)  to  Clark  &  Moore's,  at  the  end  of  stag- 
ing. From  Clark's  to  the  brink  of  the  valley,  by  saddle, 
is  twenty-three  miles,  and  thence  to  the  hotels,  seven  miles; 
making  a  total  of  thirty  miles  horseback  riding.  As  an  offset  to 
this  the  Mariposa  Route  claims  the  advantage  of  the  view  from 
Inspiration  Point,  which  lies  nearly  a  mile  off  the  direct  trail, 
and  for  grandeur  and  beauty  ip  certainly  all  that  can  be  claimed 
or  desired. 

Besides  the  view  from  Inspiration  Point,  this  route  also  pre- 
sents the  attraction  of  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees,,  six  miles  from 
Clark's,  and  requiring  an  additional  expense  of  $2.50  for  each 
horse,  besides  the  cost  of  another  day's  board  and  the  fee  of  the 
guide. 

The  Calaveras  trees,  while  equally  grand  and  beautiful  and 
even  loftier,  have  the  great  advantage  of  an  excellent  hotel  in 
the  very  midst  of  them,  so  that  the  tourist  can  spend  much  more 
time  in  rambling  among  their  mo.numental  bulks. 

Besides  the  three  routes  already  named,  two  others  have  been 
opened  during  the  present  season.  The  first  of  these  may  be 
called  the 

Mokelumne  Hill  Route. 

Parties  of  eight,  leaving  San  Francisco  on  the  morning  train, 
or  Sacramento  on  the  noon  train,  can  take  stage  at  Mokelumne 
station,  at  1.30  p.m.,  reach  Mokelumne  Hill  the  same  evening 
at  seven  o'clock,  stay  all  night,  and  reach  the  Calaveras  Big 
Trees  at  noon  next  day. 

Price,  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Trees,  and  return,  $17.00; 
from  Sacramento  to  the  Trees  and  back,  $15.50.  Parties  of  four 
will  be  taken  for  $15.00  each  from  Mokelumne  station  to  the 
trees  and  back,  in  first  class  coaches  and  carriages.  Any  wish- 
ing to  try  this  route  can  address  Peck  &  Co.,  Mokelumne  Hill. 

From  the  trees  one  can  go  on  to  the  valley  by  regular  stages, 


% 


i8  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


and  come  out  by  any  trail  he  likes,  by  making  previous  arrange- 
ments accordingly. 

The  second  additional  route  is  known  as 

Hamilton's  New  Rcute. 

By  this  route  the  tourist  from  either  San  Francisco  or  Stockton 
takes  the  Western  Pacific  Railroad  to  Gait,  wherjce  stages  leav- 
ing at  one  P.  M,,  carry  him  by  the  way  of  lone  City  and  Valley, 
through  Jackson  to  Mokelumne  Hill,  where  he  arrives  at  7  P.M., 
and  stays  over  night, 

Leave  Mokelumne  Hill  at  6.30  next  morning;  take  the  direct 
route  through  Railroad  Flat  and  reach  the  Big  Trees  at  noon. 
Fare,  for  the  round  trip  from  San  Francisco  or  Sacramento, 
$20,00.  From  either  city  to  the  Big  Trees,  $12.00,  leaving  one 
free  to  go  from  the  grove  to  Yosemite,  when  and  as  he  likes. 

Independent  Trips, 

Are  commonly  made  in  one  of  three  ways: 

1st.  By  private  wagons,  taking  camping  apparatus,  cooking 
utensils  and  provisions  along. 

2d.  In  the  saddle,  taking  apparatus,  utensils  and  food  along  on 
pack  horses. 

3d.  On  foot,  taking  as  little  as  possible,  and  depending  mainly 
on  hotels  and  wayside  ranches  or  farm  houses  for  the  necessary 
meals  and  lodging,  unless  you  choose  to  lodge  in  your  own  blank- 
ets. 

I.      BY   PRIVATE   WAGONS. 

•Parties  of  from  four  to  thirty  try  this  method  every  season, 
and  report  themselves  delighted  with  the  enjoyment  of  it,  and 
subjected  to  an  average  expense  not  exceeding  $2.00  a  day  for 
each  one  of  a  party  less  than  eight,  or  $1.50,  or  even  less,  a  day 
for  a  party  of  from  twelve  to  thirty. 


HOTEL  RATES. 


II.   BY  SADDLE  AND  PACK  ANIMALS. 

By  this  method  the  party  is  still  more  independent  than  by 
wagons,  as  hoofs  can  go  where  wheels  cannot.  The  expense  is 
about  the-  same,  as  what  is  saved  in  the  hire  of'  wagons  is  bal- 
anced by  the  cost  of  the  greater  number  of  horses  where  there 
must  be  one  animal  for  each  person  in  the  party,  besides  from 
one  to  lour,  or  even  six,  animals  to  carry  camp  equipage  and 
food. 

III.      ON    FOOT. 

•  For  complete  independence,  combined  with  the  ability  to  go 
where  and  as  you  please,  unconfined  by  roads  or  trails,  this  is  the 
best  way  of  all.  You  can  feed  and  lodge  at  hotels  and  wayside 
houses,  or  you  can  take  along  blankets  and  lodge  where  night 
overtakes  you.  To  the  untrained  this  may  seem  exceedingly 
rough  and  uncomfortable;  to  those  who  have  fairly  tried  it,  you 
will  have  no  need  to  recommend  it. 

Hotel  Hates  along  these  Routes. 

The  hotel  rates  vary  but  little  by  whatever  route  you-  may  go 
or  come.  You  will  seldom  find  a  meal  or  a  lodging  as  low  as 
fifty  cents,  especially  among  the  mountains  and  at  the  places 
most  frequented  by  summer  travel.  The  more  common  price  is 
seventy-five  cents  for  either,  and  as  we  approach  the  Valley,  or  the 
Big  Trees,  we  may  calculate  on  that  figure  as  the  usual  cost.  The 
reasonable  tourist,— and  those  who  have  souls  great  enough  to  lead 
them  to  nature's  wonders  are  supposed  to  be  reasonable  at  least, — 
will  readily  see  two  good  reasons  why  the  charges  along  routes 
like  these  must  be  relatively  higher  than  along  the  more  frequent- 
ly and  permanently  traveled  routes  of  the  thickly  settled  portions 
of  the  State:  1st,  Everything  which  requires  transportation,  fui^ 
niture,  carpets,  and  all  articles  of  food  which  cannot  be  raised  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  necessarily  cost  much  more  for  transport- 
tation  than  where  steamers  or  cars  bring  them  almost  to  the  door. 
2nd,  The  travel  along  all  such  routes,  and  the  consequent  profit- 


20  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

upon  that  travel,  must  be  made  within  less  than  one  third  of 
the  year.  During  the  remaining  two  thirds,  furniture  must 
stand  unused,  and  nearly  the  whole  amount  invested  for  the 
accommodation  of  tourists  must  remain  idle,  not  only  yielding 
no  income,  but  actually  becoming  a  source  of  additional  expense 
until  the  opening  of  a  new  season. 

We  have  no  disposition  to  apologize  for  any  extortionate  or 
unreasonable  charges  ;  for  we  are  very  happy  to  say  that  any 
such  apology  is  rarely  needed.  Every  experienced  and  fair- 
minded  traveler  knows  that  his  fellow  passengers  are  unreasonable 
and  extortionate  in  their  demands  fully  as  often  as  the  transpor- 
tation companies  and  their  agents  are  in  theirs.  The  various  lines 
mto  the  Valley  and  the  Big  Trees  are  managed  by  men  who  realize 
perfectly  well  that  the  amount  of  patronage  they  receive,  and  con- 
sequently, the  profits  which  they  make,  must  depend  upon  their 
gaining  and  keeping  the  good  will  of  the  traveling  public.  There 
is  plenty  of  opposition  ;  among  the  rival  lines,  no  one  has  or 
can  obtain  any  monopoly. 

The  sensible  and  safe  way,  here,  as  everywhere,  is  to  make  a 
definite  agreement  beforehand.  Don't  trust  any  stranger's  as- 
surance that  "we'll  make  that  all  rights  That  very  fair  sound- 
ing phrase  has  made  more  trouble  than  almost  any  other  of 
equal  length.  The  trouble  is  that  it  has  two  meanings.  The 
speaker's  "all  right"  means,  for  himself,  and  the  hearer's 
•'  all  right  "  means  for  himself ^  too ;  hence  the  frequent 
upshot  of  such  loose  understanding  is,  that  it  proves  a  com- 
plete /w/xunderstanding,  when  they  come  to  settle.  Distinct- 
ly specify  what  is  to  be  done  ;  fiow  it  is  to  be  done  ;  by  whom 
and  when  ;  and  then  add  at  least  ten  per  cent,  to  the  specified 
c(^t  for  those  little  extras  which  will  inevitably  force  themselves 
^pon  you  in  almost  every  trip.  Thus  you  may  escape  adding 
yourself  to  the  list  of  those  improvident  ones  whose  usual  exclam- 
ation at  the  close  of  any  pleasure  trip  is  "  It  cost  me  a  great 
deal  more  than  I  expected;  and  I  always  thought  it  would.'" 


HORSES  AND  GUIDES.  21 


Valley  Hotels, 

There  are  three — Hutching's,  Black's,  and  Liedig's.  Any  of 
them  will  keep  you  well  for  from  $3.00  to  $3.50  a  day,  or  $20.00 
a  week.  Hutchmgs'  is  the  farthest  up  the  valley  and  nearer  the 
greater  number  of  points  of  interest.  Hutchings  himself,  as 
poor  Dan  Setchell  used  to  make  Captain  Cuttle  say  of  his  friend 
*'01e  Sol  Gills,"  is  the  "  chuck-fuUedest  mano'  science,"  in  all 
matters  pertaining  to  the  valley  and  its  history,  that  one  can  find 
in  the  State.  He  keeps  an  excellent  house  and  usually  enter- 
tains the  more  distinguished  literary  and  scientific  tourists.  The 
Yosemite  branch  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  now  com- 
pleted and  working  as  far  as  Garrote,  will  be  extended  into  the 
valley  and  have  its  office  at  Hutchings,  by  July  ist. 

Black's  is  a  new  house,  built  expressly  for  the  increased  travel 
of  late  years— having  excellent  bath  and  other  accommodations, 
with  well-finished  and  furnished  rooms.  It  stands  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  nearer  the  west  end  of  the  valley. 

Liedig's  is  also  new,  and  is  specially  noted  for  the  bountiful 
supply  of  well-cooked  food  which  usually  loads  its  hospitable 
table,  under  the  immediate  and  personal  superintendence  of  its 
obliging  hostess.  It  is  situated  nearly  in  front  of  the  base  of 
Sentinel  Rock. 

Each  of  these  houses,  of  course,  has  its  warm  friends,  loud  in 
its  praises.  All  of  them  do  their  best  for  the  satisfaction  of 
guests  and  any  one  of  them  will  provide  the  tourist  with  a  com- 
fortable home. 

Horses  and  Guides  in  the  Valley. 

For  a  good  horse  and  saddle  the  charge  is  $2,150  a  day,  or  for 
a  trip,  if  it  occupies  such  part  of  the  day  that  the  animal  can- 
not go  out  on  any  other  one  the  same  day.  If  you  propose  to 
stay  a  week  or  more,  and  wish  to  engage  the  same  horse  for  your 


22  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST' S^UIDE. 

regular  and  exclusive  use  every  day  during  that  time,  you  can  do 
so  for  one  fifth  less;  sometimes  lower  than  that. 

The  hoi'ses  are  good,  trusty,  serviceable  beasts,  trained  to  their 
business  and  generally  safe  and  reliable. 

Going  into  or  coming  out  from  the  valley  with  any  regular 
trip,  over  any  route,  you  have  nothing  to  do  with  providing  or 
paying  for  a  guide.  One  accompanies  the  saddle-train  each 
way. 

In  and  about  the  valley,  you  can  have  the  company  and  at- 
tention of  a  practiced  and  competent  guide  for  $3.00  a  day — or, 
a  trip.  The  guide's  fee  is  the  same  whether  the  party  be  small 
or  large. 

No  tourist  who  has  the  nerve  and  muscle  of  an  average  man 
or  woman  really  needs  either  horse  or  guide.  The  valley  is  only 
seven  miles  long  and  but  a  mile  wide.  The  perpendicular  walls, 
from  three  to  five  thousand  feet  high,  shut  you  in  all  around. 
You  certainly  can't  get  out;  and  with  so  many  prominent  land- 
marks all  about  you,  you  can't  get  lost,  unless  you  try  very  hard 
indeed.  With  a  good  guide-book  before  you  and  well-rested 
legs  under  you,  a  very  moderate  exercise  of  common  sense  will 
take  you  all  about  the  valley,  and  enable  you  thoroughly  to  ex- 
plore its  wonders  "on  foot  and  alone  "  if  you  choose  so  to  go. 

Bear  in  mind,  however,  that  you  are  nearly  a  mile — in  some 
places  more  than  a  mile — above  the  sea  ;  that  the  atmosphere  is 
rare  and  light ;  that  you  need  to  restrain  your  impulse  to  dash 
about,  especially  at  first.  For  the  first  two  or  three  days  "go 
slow  " — take  it  moderately  ;  see  less  than  you  think  you  might, 
rather  than  more.  As  you  become  more  familiar  with  the  char- 
acter of  the  rocks  and  ravines  and  accustomed  to  the  exertion  of 
climbing  about  them,  you  can  extend  your  excursions  and  attempt 
harder  things. 

For  the  longer  trips,  such  as  the  ascent  of  the  Sentinel  Rock,  it 
may  be  safer  and  wiser  to  employ  a  good  guide . 


EXPENSES.  23 


Expenses, 

The  total  necessary  expenses  by  each  route  are : 

1st.  By  Big  Oak  Flat  (Hutchings')  Route: 

From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  Valley,  or  return $20 

From  wSan  Francisco  to  Yosemite  a7td  return 38 

From  San  Francisco  to  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees,  or  return.      10 
From  San  Francisco  to  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  and  Valley, 

or  return 25 

From  San  Francisco  to  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  and  Valley, 

and  return 45 

Thomas  Houseworth  &  Co.,  Agents,  317  and  319  Montgomery 
street,  San  Francisco. 

2d.  By  the  Coulterville  Route: 

From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  VaUey,  or  return $20 

From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  Valley,  and  return 38 

G.  W.  Coulter,  Agent,  214  Montgomery  street,  San  Francisco. 

3d.  By  Mariposa  Route: 

From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  Valley,  or  return $25 

From  San  Francisco  to  Yosemite  Valley,  and^Qinm 45 

Ed.  Harrison,  Agent,  Grand  Hotel,  San  Francisco. 

Board  and  Lodging  en  route,  per  day $3  00 

Board  and  Lodging  in  the  Valley,  per  day 3  00 

Board  and  Lodging  at  Big  Trees,  per  day    3  00 

Board  and  Lodging  in  either  place,  per  week 20  00 

Horses  in  Valley,  or  to  Big  Trees,  per  day. 2  50 

Guides  in  Valley  or  to  Big  Trees,  per  day   3  00 

TOTAL   EXPENSES   OF   EXCURSION. 

I .  To  Yosemite  Valley,  direct,  by  Big  Oak  or  Coulterville, 
stay  one  week  in  the  Valley,  hiring  guide  and  horse  three 
days,  and  returning  by  same  route ,    $80 


24  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

2.  Above  excursion,  including  Calaveras  Big  Trees 90 

3.  To  Yosemite  Valley  direct,  by  Mariposa,  staying  a  week 
in  the  Valley,  hiring  guide  and  horse  three  days,  and  coming 
out  same  way 87 

4.  Above  excursion,  including  ^Mariposa  Big  Trees 93 

5.  In  by  Big  Oak  Flat  or  Coulterville,  and  out  by  Maripo- 
sa, or  vice  versxi,  other  conditions  as  above 87 

6.  In  by  Mariposa,  and  out  by  Big  Oak  Flat,  visiting  both 
groves  of  Big  Trees,  same  conditions  as  above i  lo 

In  the  above   statement  the  expense  for  guide  is  based  on  the 
supposition  that  the  party  includes  at  least  three  persons. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


The  name  is  Indian.  Pronounce  it  in  four  sjdla- 
bles,  accenting  the  second.  It  means  "  Big  Griz- 
zly Bear." 

The  valley  lies  very  near  the  centre  of  the  State, 
reckoning  north  and  soutli,  about  one  fifth  the  way 
across  from  east  to  west,  and  almost  exactly  in  the 
middle  of  the  high  Sierras  which  inclose  it.  Its 
direction  from  San  Francisco  is  a  little  south  of 
east,  and  its  distance  about  one  hundred  and  forty 
miles  in  an  air  line.  The  valley  iteelf  lies  nearly 
east  and  west.  Its  main  axis  runs  a  little  north  of 
east  by  a  little  south  of  west. 

It  consists  of  three  parts: 

1st.  The  surrounding  wall  of  solid  rock,  nearly 
vertical,  and  varjdng  in  height  from  one  thousand 
to  four  and  even  five  thousand  feet. 

2d.  The  slope  of  rocky  masses  and  fragments 
which  have  fallen  from  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  form- 
ing a  sort  of  talvi8  or  escarpment  along  the  foot  of 
this  wall,  from  seventy-five  to  three  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high,  throughout  the  greater  part  of  its 
extent. 

2 


26  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

3d.  The  nearly  level  bottom  land,  lying  between 
these  slopes,  forming  the  valley  proj^er,  and  divided 
into  two  unequal  j)arts  by  the  Merced  River  flowing 
through  westerly,  from  end  to  end. 

The  main  valley  is  seven  miles  long;  though  one 
may  make  it  longer  if  he  estimates  the  branches  or 
divisions  at  the  upper  or  eastern  end.  Its  width  varies 
from  a  few  feet  on  either  side  of  the  stream,  to  a 
full  mile  and  a  quarter  in  its  broadest  part.  It  con- 
tains over  a  thousand  acres;  two  thirds  meadow, 
and  the  rest  a  few  feet  higher,  somewhat  sandy, 
gravelly,  and,  in  places,  covered  with  rocks  and 
boulders  from  the  surrounding  cliffs.  Over  the  lat- 
ter portion,  at  in'egular  intervals,  trees,  shrubs  and 
ferns  are  sparsely  sprinkled  or  set  in  irregular 
groups.  The  richer  bottom  supports  several  fine 
clumps  and  gToves  of  graceful  trees. 

The  bottom  5  of  the  valley  is  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  has  an  average  fall, 
towards  the  west,  of  about  six  feet  to  the  mile.  The 
river  varies  in  width  from  fifty  to  seventy  feet,  and 
in  depth  from  six  to  twelve  feet.  Its  bottom  is 
gravelly,  its  cuiTent  remarkably  swift,  its  waters 
clear  as  crystal.  Trout,  of  deHcious  quality,  abound, 
but  seldom  allow  white  men  to  catch  them. 
^  The  rocky  wall  which  shuts  it  in,  averages  over 
three  quarters  of  a  mUe  in  pei-jjendicular  height. 
N(5^!Hj^g  on  wheels  has  ever  gone  up  or  down  this 
tremendous  precipice,  and  in  only  two  places  have 


YO SEMITE   VALLEY.  27 

tlie  surest-footed  horses  or  mules  been  able  to  find 
a  safe  trail. 

Yosemite  Yalley  is  really  a  huge  sink  or  cleft  in 
a  tangle  of  rock-mountains;  a  gigantic  trougb,  not 
scooped  or  hollowed  out  from  above,  but  sunk 
straight  down,  as  if  the  bottom  had  dropped  plumb 
toward  the  centre,  leaving  both  walls  so  high 
that  if  either  should  fall,  its  top  would  reach  clear 
across  the  valley  and  crash  against  the  opposite 
cliff  several  hundred  feet  above  its  base. 

In  many  places  these  cliffs  rise  into  rock-moun- 
tains, or  swell  into  huge  mountainous  domes,  two 
or  three  of  which  have  been  split  squarely  in  two, 
or  cleft  straight  down  from  top  to  bottom,  and  the 
two  halves,  still  standing  straight  'up,  have  been 
heaved  or  thrown  a  half-mile  asunder,  whence  each 
looks  wistfully  across  at  its  old  mate,  or  frowns 
sternly  and  gloomity  down  upon  the  beautiful  valley 
which  quietly  keeps  them  apart. 

Here  and  there  they  tower  into  lofty  spires,  shoot 
up  in  shattered  or  splintered  needles,  or  solemnly 
stand  in  stately  groups  of  massive  turrets.  High 
bastions  surmount  steep  precipices,  and  both  look 
down  on  awful  chasms. 

Back  from  the  edge  of  the  valley,  behind  these 
cliffs,  the  rock  country  stretches  away  in  every  di- 
rection through  leagues  of  solid  granite,  rising  kpg'- 
ularly  into  scattered  hills,  peaks  and  mou'lKns, 
between  which  run  the  various  snow-fed  streams. 


28  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

whose  final,  sudden  plunge  over  the  valley's  sharp 
and  rofcky  brink  makes  the  numerous  falls  of  such 
wonderful  height. 

Coming  in  by  either  trail,  one  enters  the  western 
or  lower  end  of  the  valley.  AYe  will  suj)pose  our- 
selves entering  by  the  Mariposa  trail.  "We  have 
clambered,  or  allowed  our  animals  to  clamber,  safely 
down  the  rocky,  steep,  and  crooked  trail,  which 
lands  us  finally  at  the  foot  of  the  precipitous  slope 
of  two  thousand  seven  hundi-ed  feet.  As  we  follow 
the  trail  up  the  valley,  that  is,  bearing  away  to  the 
right,  going  eastward  along  the  foot  of  the  south 
wall,  we  encounter  the  falls,  mountains,  spu'es  and 
domes  in  the  f  olloAving  order : 

One  coming  .in  by  the  Coulterville,  Hardin's  or 
Big  Oak  Flat  trail,  finds  himself  at  the  same  end  of 
the  valley,  dii-ectly  opposite  the  foot  of  the  Mari- 
posa trail,  having  the  river  between;  and  as  he  bears 
away  to  the  left,  along  the  base  of  the  north  wall, 
he  would,  of  course,  meet  all  these  wonders  in  ex- 
actly the  reverse  order.  But  to  return  to  the  foot  of 
the  Marij^osa  or  Clark's  trail : 

First,  the 

Bridal  Veil  Fall, 

Indian  name  Po-lio-no,  meaning,  "  The  Spirit  of 
the  Evil  Wind."  The  fall  is  over  nine  hundred  feet 
higll^and  of  indescribable  beauty.  The  stream 
which  forms  it  has  an  average  width  of  some  sixty- 


BRIDAL   VEIL  FALL.  29 

five  feet  at  the  edge  of  the  cliff  where  it  breaks  over 
the  brink.  It  is  narrower  in  summer  and  wider  in 
winter.  For  six  hundred  ancj  thirty  feet  the  stream 
leaps  clear  of  the  cliff  in  one  unbroken  fall.  Thence 
it  rushes  down  the  steep  slope  of  broken  rocks  in  a 
confusion  of  intermingled  cascades  nearly  three 
hundred  feet  more. 

The  varying  pressure  of  the  changeful  wind  causes 
a  veil-like  waving,  swaying  and  fluttering,  which 
readily  suggests  the  obviously  fitting  and  most  ap- 
propriate name. 

What  could  a  bride  be  made  of, 
Who  would  wear  a  veil  like  this  ? 

No  sooner  asked  than  answered, 
She  must  be  "  Maid  o'  the  Mist." 

This  fall  presents  its  greatest  beauty  in  May  or 
June  when  the  volume  of  water  is  not  too  great. 
The  situation  of  Pohono,  added  to  its  intiinsic 
beauty,  waving  a  welcome  as  the  tourist  enters  and 
fluttering  a  farewell  as  he  leaves,  make  it  the  uni- 
versal favorite.  Ladies  especially  love  to  linger  at 
its  foot,  feasting  their  eyes  with  its  marvelous  and 
changeful  beauty,  and  delighting  their  hearts  with 
the  delicious  suggestiveness  of  its  most  appropri- 
ate name.  The  honeymoon  can  nowhere  be  more 
fittingly  or  happily  spent  than  within  sight  of 
Pohono. 

Half  a  mile  further  the  cliff  rounds  outward  and 


30  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

swells  upward  into  an  enormous  double,  rocky 
bastion,  tlae 

Cathedral  Rocks. 

Two  thousand  six  liundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the 
valley.  Indian  name,  Po-see-nah  Chbock-kah, 
meaniijg  a  large  store  or  hoard  of  acorns.  From 
certain  points  of  sight  the  form  of  these  rocks  read- 
ily suggests  the  outline  of  a  dilapidated  Gothic 
cathedral.  Only  the  superior  gi'andeui-  of  Tu- 
toch-ah-nu-lah  and  the  South  Dome,  prevent  this 
rock  from  greater  fame.  Outside  of  Tosemite  it 
would  quickly  attain  a  world-wide  celebrity. 

Just  beyond  these  rocks  the  cliff  bears  away  to 
the  southeast  and  sends  up  two  slender,  graceful 
pinnacles  of  splintered  granite,  rising  five  hundred 
feet  above  the  main  wall,  which  supports  them. 
These  are  the 

Cathedral  Spires. 

Their  summits  are  twenty-four  hundred  feet 
above  the  valley.  Seen  from  the  northeast,  a  mile 
distant,  these  s]3ires  apjDear  symmetrical,  of  equal 
height,  squarely  hewn  and  rising  above  the  edge  of 
the  cliff  behind,  exactly  like  two  towers  of  a  Gothic 
cathedral.  One  who  doubts  the  ai^propriateness 
of  their  name,  has  only  to  view  them  from  this 
point,  whence  a  single  glance  will  end  his  skeptic- 
ism.    Beyond  the  si^u-es  the  wall  runs  southeasterly 


SENTINEL  ROCK.  31 

a  quarter  of  a  mile,  then  curves  through  an  easterly 
and  northerly  sweep  into  a  north  and  south  line. 
The  whole  sweep  forms  a  sort  of  precipitous  coast 
with  its  rocky  headlands,  inclosing  the  valley  be- 
tween like  an  emerald  bay.  Beyond  this  bay  the 
rocky  wall  gradually  curves  again,  and  resumes  its 
easterly  trend.  An  eighth  of  a  mile  further .  brings 
us  to 

The  Fissure. 

This  is  a  cleft  or  split  in  the  rock,  running  back 
southeasterly  at  nearly  a  right  angle  with  the  face 
of  the  cliff.  It  is  one  thousand  feet  deep,  five  feet 
wide  at  the  top  and  front,  and  grows  gradually 
narrower  as  it  extends  downward  and  backward 
into  the  mountain.  Several  boulders  have  fallen 
into  it  and  lodged  at  different  depths, 

A  third  of  a  mile  east  of  this  fissure,  and  a  mile 
and  three  quarters  from  the  Cathedral  Rocks,  an- 
other rocky  promontory  j^rojects  northwesterly,  like 
a  huge  buttress,  a  third  of  a  mile  into  the  valley, 
crowned  with  a  lofty  granite  obelisk,  three  hundred 
feet  tliick,  and  standing  straight  up  twelve  hundred 
feet  above  the  giant  cliff  which  supports  it.  This 
is  the  famous 

Sentinel  Rock. 

so  named  from  its  resemblance  to  a  gigantic  watch- 
tower  or  signal  station,  for  which,  the  legends  say, 
the  Indians  formerly  used  it.     The   Indian  name 


32  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

was  Loya.  Its  top  is  three  thousand  and  forty-three 
feet  above  the  river  at  its  foot.  The  sides  show 
plainly-marked  perpendicular  cleavages  in  the  gran- 
ite. 

Although  so  steep  in  front  and  at  the  sides,  a 
strong  gras}),  a  sure  foot,  a  cool  nerve  and  a  calm 
head  can  safely  climb  it  from  the  rear,  that  is,  the 
southwest  side.  At  least  they  have  done  so  more 
than  once,  and  planted  a  flag  to  wave  in  triumph 
from  its  summit.  By  the  unanimous  and  unques- 
tioned verdict  of  all  tounsts,  this  rock  is  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  beautiful  even  in  Yosemite  itself. 
Its  striking  prominence  has  made  it  a  favorite 
subject  with  all  ai-tists  who  have  visited  the  valley. 

Thi-ee  quaiiers  of  a  mile  southeast  of  the  senti- 
nel tower,  haK  a  mile  back  from  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  and  partially  or  totally  hidden  by  it,  ac- 
cording as  the  spectator  stands  nearer  to  or  farther 
from  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  the 

Sentinel  Dome 

lifts  its  hemispherical  bulk  four  thousand  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet.  This  is  one  of  the  most  regu- . 
larly  formed  of  all  of  the  peculiar  dome-like  peaks 
about  the  valley.  The  Indian  name  was  Loy-e-ma. 
A  horseman  can  reach  the  very  summit  by  a  trail 
up  the  eastern  slope,  and  enjoy  a  most  extensive 
view  as  his  reward.  From  this  dome,  the  profile  of 
the  South  Dome  and  strongly  marked  moraines  of 


GLACIER    ROCK.  33 

^  the  Too-loo-le-wack  Canon  appear  to  better  advan- 
tage than  from  any  other  point. 

A  mile  east  of  Sentinel  Rock  the  face  of  the  cliff 
becomes  less  precipitous,  bends  sharply  around  to 
the  south,  and  thence  back  towards  the  southwest, 
forming  an  angular  and  sloping  rocky  bluff  known 
as 

Glacier  Rock, 
called  by  the  Indians,  Oo-woo-yoo-wah,  which 
means,  the  ''  Great  Eock  of  the  Elk."  The  story 
has  it  that  during  one  of  the  expeditions  of  troojDS 
into  the  valley,  a  party  of  soldiers,  searching  for 
Indians,  undertook  to  climb  this  rock,  and  while, 
slowly  and  with  great  labor,  working  their  way  up 
its  smooth  and  steep  slope,  the  hunted  red  men 
suddenly  appeared  upon  its  summit,  and  began  to 
roll  large  stones  down  upon  them.  These  came 
thundering  down  with  terrific  niose  and  frightful 
speed.  The  pale  faces  turned  and  fled  with  head- 
long haste,  but  the  destructive  missiles  smote  seve- 
ral of  them  with  instant  death. 
y  From  the  point  of  Glacier  Eock  one  has  a  fine 
r  view  of  the  valley.  All  the  domes,  with  the  Yosem- 
ite,  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  are  plainly  visible 
thence. 

For  nearly  a  mile  southeast  of  Glacier  Eock  the 

cliff  becomes  steej)er  and  more  precipitous,  forming 

^  the  western  wall  of  a  wild,  rough  canon,  stretching 

away  southeasterly  for  nearl}^  a  mile.      Over  the 


34  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

cliff  at  the  liead  of  tliis  canon  the  south  fork  of  the 
Merced  plunges  six  hundred  feet  in  the 

milouette    Fall. 

This  is  also  called  the  Too-loo-le-wack,  or  Too- 
lool-we-ack  Fall.     The  meaning  of  either  of  these 

,  Indian  names  is  not  certainly  given.  Cunningham, 
one  of  the  oldest  and  best  guides  of  the  valle}^  calls 
the  canon  and  the  fall  at  the  head  of  it,  the  El-lil- 
o-wit.  The  tourist  who  attempts  this  canon  must 
leave  all  hoofs  behind,  and,  falling  back  to  first  piin- 
ciples,  de}3end  entirely  upon  his  own  understanding. 
Among  the  enormous  masses  of  rock  which  ob- 
struct it,  several  extensive  fissures  and  romantic 
caverns  furnish  additional  stimulus  to  the  wonder- 
loving  pedestrian.  As  General  Coulter  says :  ' '  rough 
is  no  name  for  it."  It  is  one  of  the  wildest  jolaces 
imaginable.  Few  tourists  accomplish  it,  but  those 
who  do  are  amply  repaid. 

^  From  the  foot  of  the  Il-lil-ou-ette  Canon  make 
your  wa}^  directly  east,  clamber  along  haK  a  mile,  or 
let  your  horse  do  it  for  you,  then  bear  away  to  the 
right,  slightly  south  of  east,  and  you  find  yourself 
entering  the  canon  of  the  main  Merced  itself.  Now 
pick  your  way  carefully  along,  and,  as  soon  as  you 
feel  sufficiently  sure  of  your  foothold,  look  about 
you,  and  look  ahead.  Did  you  ever  see  finer  boul- 
der-scenery in  your  life  ?  Stop  under  the  shelter- 
ing lee  of  this  huge,  church-like  bo  alder,  and  don 


VERNAL  FALL.  35 


the  oiled  or  rubber  suit  which  awaits  your  hire.  You 
can  get  on  without  it,  but  the  spray  will  quickly 
wet  you  into  a 

"  DemVl  damp,  moist  and  disagreeable  body," 

if  you  try  ii 

Now  take  a  stout  stick,  a  deep  breath,  hold  firmly 
on  to  both  and  plunge  sturdily  along  the  ascending 
trail.  The  deepest,  richest  and  greenest  of  moss 
lines  the  narrow  foot-path  on  either  hand.  Look 
quickly;  enjoy  it  while  you  may,  for  presently  you 
find  breath  and  sight  nearly  taken  away  together 
by  heavy  sj^ray-gusts,  rushing,  wind-driven,  down 
the  canon.  Catching  the  intervals  between,  and 
catching  your  breath  at  the  same  time,  you  lift  your 
nearly  blinded  eyes  to  the 

Vernal    Pall. 

four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  one  hundred  feet 
wide,  and  from  three  to  five  feet  deep  where  it 
breaks  over  the  square-cut^edgeof  the  solid  granite 
beneath.  •  The  name  Vernal  was  given  it  on  account 
of  the  greenness  of  its.  water  as  it  plunges  over  the 
brink,  as  well  as  to  distinguish  it  from  the  very- 
white  fall  a  mile  above.  The  Indian  name  was  Pi- 
wy-ack,  which  is  differently  translated  to  mean  "  a 
shower  of  crystals,"  or  "  the  cataract  of  diamonds." 
This  fall  pours  in  one  solid  unbroken  sheet  of 
emerald  green,  flecked  and  fringed  with  creamy 
foam,  and  filling  the  whole  canon  below  with  a  thick, 


36  BAyCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

and  fine  and  ceaseless  spray,  which  keeps  its  moss, 
and  grass  and  foliage  of  a  rich,  deep  green  nowhere 
surpassed  in  nature.  This  spray  also  combines  with 
the  sunshine  to  develop  another  and  a  marvelous 
beauty.  At  almost  any  point  along  the  trail  for 
several  rods  below  the  fall,  the  visitor  who  is  climb- 
ing in  the  morning  has  only  to  turn  square  about  to 
find  himself  glorified  by  an  exquisitely  beautiful  cir- 
cular rainbow  surrounding  his  head  like  a  halo. 
This  rainbow  fonns  a  comj)lete  circle  of  so  small  a 
diameter  that  the  tourist  who  views  it  for  the  first 
time  involuntarily  stretches  out  his  hands  to  grasp 
it. 

The  path  is  wet  and  slippery,  and  the  ladder- 
stairs  which  carry  one  up  the  right-hand  face  of  the 
cliff,  just  at  the  south  edge  of  the  fall,  are  steep 
and  tiresome.  But  good  oil  or  rubber  suits  keep 
out  the  wet,  a  good  restful  pause  now  and  then 
keej)s  in  the  breath,  while  careful  stepping  and  firm 
holding  on  rob  the  steepness  and  slipperiness  of  all 
their  real  danger.  Scores  of  ladies  go  up  and  come 
down  every  season  without  accident  or  harmful  fa- 
tigue. 

Arrived  at  the  top  of  the  singularly  square-cut 
granite  cliff,  we  turn  to  the  left,  walk  to  the  very 
edge  of  the  stream  and  the  brink  of  the  fall,  and 
gaze  into  the  misty  chasm  in  which  the  foot  of  the 
fall  disappears.  One  need  not  fear  to  do  so,  for 
nature,  as  if  with  special  forethought  for  the  gratifi- 


ILLILOUETTE  tALL.  37 

cation  of  future  guests,  has  provided  a  remarkable 
parapet  of  solid  granite  running  along  the  very 
edge  of  the  brink  for  several  yards  south  of  the  fall, 
just  breast  high,  and  looking  as  if  made  on  purpose 
for  timid  tourists  to  lean  over,  and  gaze  with  fear- 
less safety  into  the  seething  chasm  in  whose  foaming 
depths  the  foot  of  the  cataract  shrouds  itself  in  im- 
penetrable mist. 

This  ceaseless  mistiness  makes  it  almost  impossi- 
ble to  estimate  or  calculate  the  exact  height  of  the 
fall  with  any  satisfactory  accuracy.  Another  vari- 
able element  which  enters  into  all  conjectures  of  its 
height  is  the  fact  that  the  rock  on  which  it  strikes 
slopes  sharply  down  for  upwards  of  a  hundred  and 
sixty  feet.  Hence  in  late  spring  or  early  summer, 
when  the  volume  and  velocity  of  the  river  are 
greatest,  the  water,  shooting  further  out,  falls  at 
the  very  base  of  this  slope,  and  gives  the  fall  a 
height  of  four  hundred  and  seventy-five  or  even  five 
hundred  feet  in  May  or  June.  In  October,  on  the 
other  hand,  when  the  stream  is  at  its  lowest,  the 
water,  falling  straight  down,  strikes  upon  the  top 
of  this  slope,  a  hundred  and  sixty  or  seventy-five 
feet  above  its  base,  and  thus  diminishes  the  height 
of  the  fall  by  just  that  amount. 

In  its  volume,  this  fall  resembles  Niagara  more 
than  any  other  in  the  valley.  In  width,  of  course, 
it  falls  far  below,  but  its  height  is  more  than  three 
times  as  great.     It  also  resembles  Niagara  in  its 


38  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

greatening  on  the  gaze  witli  each  successive  yisit. 
In  its  approaches,  in  its  surroundings,  and  in  itself, 
the  Vernal  fall  surpasses  expectation  and  fully  satis- 
fies desire. 

Half  a  mile  above  the  Vernal  is  a  small  but  beau- 
tiful gem  of  a  little  fall,  called  the 

Kachooxnah, 

or  Wild  Cat  Fall.  The  reason  of  the  name  is 
ob\ious  to  one  standing  a  hundred  feet  below,  and 
noting  how  the  impetuous  stream,  breaking  over 
the  sharp  edge  of  a  huge  transverse  boulder,  dashes 
against  the  sloping  side  of  another;  lying  angularly 
across;  and  is  thrown,  or  seems  to  spring,  diagon- 
ally across  towards  the  northern  bank,  readily, 
though  roughly,  suggesting  the  sudden  side-spring 
of  the  animal  for  whom  the  observing  red  man 
named  it. 

•  Another  half  mile,  and  the  rocky  walls  close  to- 
gether, shut  us  in  and  bar  our  fui-ther  progress. 
The  canon  narrows  to  a  point,  over  w^jose  right 
hand  wall,  close  to  the  very  angle  of  meeting,  the 
same  river,  the  main  Merced,  plunges  its  whole 
volume  in  the  famous 

Nevada  Fall, 

/  seven  hundred  feet  high,  seventy-five  feet  wide  at 
the  brink,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  below.  This 
fall  is,  in  all  respects,  one  of  the  grandest  in  the 


NEVADA   FALL.  39 


world.  In  lieight,  in  width,  in  purity  and  volume 
of  water  during  tlie  early  summer,  in  graceful  pecu- 
liarities and  in  grandeur  of  surrounding  scenery,  it 
is  simply  stupendous.  Other  falls,  though  few, 
surpass  it  in  the  single  element  of  height,  but  in 
surrounding  grandeur,  in  the  harmony  of  beauty 
and  magnificence,  none  equal  this.  None  brings 
the  visitor  oftener  to  its  foot,  detains  him  with 
greater  delight,  or  sends  him  away  with  more  pro- 
found satisfaction. 

The  exact  statement  of  the  height  of  this  fall  is 
hindered  by  causes  similar  to  those  at  the  Vernal^ 
viz:  the  constant  and  blinding  spray  around  the 
bottom,  and  the  consequent  uncertainty  as  to  the 
exact  spot  where  the  water  strikes. 

The  rock  beneath  this  fall  is  not  vertical,  but 
rather  steeply  inclined,  having  a  slope  of  about 
eighty-five  degrees  through  its  upper  half  and  not 
far  from  seventy-five  degrees  through  its  lowxr. 
Hence  in  summer,  when  tourists  usually  see  it,  the 
diminished  force  of  the  current  causes  the  water 
rather  to  slide  down  the  slope,  than  to  shoot  out 
over  and  fall  clear  of  it,  as  in  the  sx^ring.  Thus, 
from  June  to  November  the  Nevada  is  more  prop- 
erly a  chute  or  slide  than  a  fall.  During  this  sea- 
son the  friction  of  the  rock  breaks  the  stream  into 
a  white  froth;  hence  the  name,  Nevada,  or  Snowy 
Fall. 

When  the  water  is  very  low,  the  fittest  thing  to 


4o  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

wliicli  one  could  liken  it  would  be  to  myriads  of 
white  lace  or  gauze  veils  hung  over  the  face  of  the 
cliff,  waving  and  fluttering  in  the  wind.  A  party  of 
ladies  originated  this  figure,  and  it  occui-red  also  to 
Mr.  Bowles  in  his  fine  descriptions  of  Yosemite 
wonders. 

As  one  stands  in  the  canon  below  gazing  at  the 
Nevada,  the  Snowy  Fall,  away  upon  his  left,  about 
a  third  of  a  mile  back  from  the  brink  of  the  north- 
east wall  of  the  canon,  rises 

Mt.   Broderick, 

or  the  Cap  of  Liberty,  whose  general  outline  sug- 
gests its  name.  Its  rounded  summit  lifts  its  smooth, 
weather-poKshed  granite  two  thousand  .  feet  above 
the  fall  and  nearly  five  thousand  above  the  main 
valley.  It  bears  upon  its  crown  a  single  juniper  of 
enormous  diameter. 

Away  to  the  right  of  the  canon,  just  jDceping 
above  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and  nearly  two  miles 
south-southeast  of  the  Nevada  Fall,  rises  the  steep, 
conical  summit  of  the  South  Dome,  or 

Mt  Starr   King, 

reaching  an  estimated  height  of  one  mile  above  the 
valley.  Next  to  the  wonderful  half-dome,  this  is 
the  steepest  and  smoothest  cone  in  the  region.  In- 
dian name,  See-wah-lam,  meaning  not  known.     Its 


THE   HALF-DOME.  41 

exact  height,  like  that  of  its  great  namesake,  has 
never  been  satisfactorily  settled. 

Clambering  back  down  this  canon,  depositing  our 
oiled  or  rubber  suits,  and  experiencing  an  imme- 
diate sense  of  relief  and  lightness,  we  retrace  the 
trail  up  which  we  came,  bear  away  to  the  right,  that 
is,  going  nearly  northwest,  proceed  nearly  or  quite 
a  mile  round  the  base  of  a  lofty  buttress,  and  ope^i 
the 

Tenaya  Canon, 

stretching  av*^ay  northeast  nearly  in  a  continuous 
line  with  the  main  valley  itself. 

About  one  mile  up  this  canon  towers  Yosemite's 
sheerest  and  loftiest  isolated  cliff,  the 

Half-Dome 

itself.  It  is  a  bare  crest  of  naked  granite,  four 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty  feet  high,  cleft 
straight  down  in  one  vast  vertical  front  on  the  Ten- 
aya, or  northwest  side,  while  on  the  back,  that  is, 
toward  the  southeast,  it  swells  off  and  rounds  away 
with  a  dome-like  sweep  that  utterly  dwarfs  the 
grandeur  of  a  thousand  St.  Peters  in  one. 

Following  still  on  up  the  Tenaya  Canon,  nearly 
two  miles  beyond  the  dome,  and  a  thousand  feet 
higher,  rises  the 

Clouds'  Rest, 

a  granite  ri"dge,  long,  bare  and  steep,  having  its 
axis  parallel  with  that  of  the  valley,  and  falling 


42  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

away  along  its  southeastern  slope  into  the  rocky 
mountain  wilderness  of  the  High  Sierras.  This  is 
one  of  the  few  points  about  the  valley  which  the 
Geological  Survey  has  not  yet  measured.  They 
estimated  its  height  one  thousand  feet  above  that 
of  the  Half  Dome,  which  would  make  its  summit 
ten  thousand  feet,  or  nearly  two  miles  above  the 
sea  level. 

Beyond  this,  little  of  note  invites  the  traveler's 
delay,  so  we  make  our  way  northwesterly  straight 
across  this  canon  from  the  base  of  its  southeasterly 
wall  toward  that  of  the  opposite  cliff.  On  the  way, 
however. 

Mirror  Lake 

arrests  and  enchants  us.  Surely  wafer  reflections 
were  never  more  perfect.  The  Indian  name  Ke-ko- 
too-yem,  Sleeping  Water,  was  never  more  happily 
bestowed.  Imagine  a  j)erfect  water  mirror  nearly 
eight  acres  in  extent,  and  of  a  temperament  so  calm 
and  deep  and  philosophic  that  it  devotes  its  whole 
life  to  the  profoundest  reflection.  A  mile  of  soHd 
cliff  above,  a  mile  of  seeming  solid  cliff  beneath; 
for  though  the  mind  knows  the  lower  to  be  only  an 
image,  the  eye  cannot,  by  simple  sight  alone,  deter- 
mine which  is  the  solid  original  and  which  the  shad- 
owy reflection. 

Twin  mountaius,  base  to  base,  here  meet  the  astou- 
ished  eye; 
One  towers  toward  lieaven  in  substance  vast, 


NORTH  DOME.  43 


One  looms  below  in  shadow  cast, 
As  grand,  as  perfect  as  its  peer  on  high. 

In  early  morning,  wlien  no  breeze  ripples  the 
lake,  its  reflections  are,  indeed,  marvelously life-like. 
So  exactly  is  eveiy  line  and  point  repeated  that  the 
photographic  view  has  puzzled  hundreds  to  tell 
which  mountain  is  in  the  air  and  which  is  in  the  water. 
The  spectator  who  takes  the  photogram  in  his  hand 
for  the  first  time  often  hesitates  for  several  minutes 
before  he  can  determine  which  side  up  the  picture 
should  be  held.  The  depth  of  the  lake  is  from 
eight  to  twenty  feet. 

One  sufficiently  vigorous  and  persevering  may 
push  on  up  the  Tenaya  creek  till  he  finds  the 

^  Tenaya  Lake, 

over  a  mile  long,  snugly  nestled  in  among  the 
mountains.  This  lies  beyond  the  usual  limit  of 
tourists'  excursions,  but  well  repays  a  visit. 

Nearly  a  mile  northwest  of  the  lake,  and  about  a 
third  of  a  mile  back  from  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  the 

Nortli  Dome 

lifts  its  rounded  granite  bulk  three  thousand  five 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  the  valley.  It  looks 
as  if  built  of  huge,  concentric,  overlapping,  hemi- 
spherical domes,  piled  one  upon  another,  andjiaving 
their  overlapping  edges  irregularly  broken  away. 
On  the  valley  side,  that  is,  toward  the  south  and 


44  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

southeast,  it  is  so  steep  that  no  human  foot  has 
ever  climbed  it.  In  the  rear,  however,  that  is, 
toward  the  north  and  west,  it  falls  away  in  a  vast 
ridge  or  spine,  along  which  one  can  easily  gain  the 
very  summit  of  the  dome  itself.  The  Indian  name 
was  To-coy-ah,  meaning  the  shade  of  an  Indian 
baby  basket. 

Passing  three  quarters  of  a  mile  still  down,  we 
reach  the  angle  or  turn  between  the  Tenaya  canon 
and  the  valley  proper.  In  this  turn,  in  fact  forming 
the  angle,  stands  the 

"Washington  Column, 

/  a  rounded,  columnar  rock  tower,  partially  standing 
forth  from  the  abutting  cliff  behind.  This  reaches 
the  height  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet. 

Immediately  beyond  this  large  masses  of  the  huge 
concentric,  overlapping  plates,  have  cracked  off, 
slipped  away  and  fallen,  leaving  rough  bas-relief 
arches  several  hunLlred  yards  long,  and  projecting 
some  scores  of  fee  c,  like  rudely-di'awn  gigantic  eye- 
brows.    These  are  commonly  called  the  ' 

Royal  Arches, 

or  the  Arched  Hocks,  but  the  .Indian  name,  Hun-to, 
"  The  Watching  Eye,"  wiU  better  satisfy  the  poet- 
ical visitor,  imless,  indeed,  his  Masonic  proclivities 
quite  overpower  his  poetic  appreciation,  in  which 
case  he  will  undoubtedly  prefer  the  former  title. 


YO SEMITE  FALL.  45 


For  the  next  mile  and  a  half  noi-thwest  nothing  of 
special  wonder  for  Yosemite  detains  us. 

The  relief  is  fitting  and  needful,  not  only  that  we 
may  recover  in  some  degree  from  the  continued 
effect  of  the  marvels  already  past,  but,  more  especi- 
ally, that  we  may  rally  in  preparation  for  the  most 
stupendous  wonder  of  them  all,  the  great 

Yosemite  Fall 

itself.  Here  language  ceases  and  art  quite  fails. 
No  words  nor  j^aintings,  not  even  the  photogram 
itself,  can  reproduce  one  tithe  of  the  grandeur  here 
enthroned.  A  cataract  from  heaven  to  earth,  plung- 
ing from  the  clouds  of  the  sky  to  bury  itself  among 
the  trees  of  the  forest.  The  loftiest  waterfall  yet 
known  upon  the  face  of  the  globe. 

Don't  mention  figures  yet,  please.  When  a  man 
is  overwhelmed  with  the  sublime,  don't  plunge  him 
into  statistics.  By  and  by,  when  we  have  cooled 
down  to  a  safe  pitch,  we  may  condescend  to  hear 
the  calm  calculator  project  his  inexorable  mathe- 
matics into  the  very  face  of  nature's  sublimity  and 
triumphantly  tell  us  just  liow  great  this  surpassing 
wonder  is.  But  after  all  his  exactest  calculations, 
his  absolute  measurements  and  his  positive  assur- 
ances, OYi^feeh  how  small  the  fraction  of  real  great- 
ness which  figui'es  can  express  or  the  intellect 
apprehend.  A  cataract  half  a  mile  high,  setting 
its  forehead  against  the  stars  and  planting  its  feet 


46  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

at  the  base  of  the  eternal  liills.  Gracefully  swaying 
from  side  to  side  in  rhythmical  vibration,  swelling 
into  grandeur  in  earlier  spring,  and  shrinking  into 
beaut}'  under  the  ardency  of  summer  heat;  towering 
far  above  all  other  cataracts,  it  calmly  abides,  the 
undisputed  monarch  of  them  all. 

A  half  mile  is  no  exaggeration,  for  the  official 
measurement  of  the  State  Survey  makes  the  height 
two  thousand  six  hundred  and  forty-one  (2,641) 
feet — a/uZZ  half  mile,  and  one  foot  more. 

The  fall  is  not  in  one  unbroken,  perpendicular 
sheet,  but  in  three  successive  leaps.  In  the  upper 
fall,  the  stream  slides  over  a  huge  rounded  lip  or 
edge  of  polished  granite,  and  falls  one  thousand 
five  hundred  and  eighty-seven  feet  in  one  tremend- 
ous plunge.  Here  its  whole  volume  thunders  upon 
a  broad  shelf  or  recess,  whence  it  rushes  in  a  series 
of  roughly-broken  cascades  down  a  broken  sloj^e  of 
over  seven  hundred  feet  in  linear  measurement, 
but  whose  base  is  six  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet 
perpendicularly  below  its  to^.  From  the  bottom 
of  this  broken  sloj^e  it  makes  a  final  plunge  of  four 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  in  one  clear  fall,  and 
then  slides  off  contentedly  into  the  restful  shadows 
of  the  welcoming  forests  below. 

Its  width,  like  that  of  all  snow-fed  streams, 
varies  greatly  with  the  season.  In  March  or  April, 
when  the  tributary  snows  are  melting  most  rajoidly, 
and  myriads   of   streamlets   swell  its  volume,  the 


THREE    BROTHERS.  47 

stream  is  from  seventy-five  to  a  hundred  feet  wide, 
■where  it  suddenly  slips  over  the  smoothly-rounded 
granite  at  its  upper  brink.  During  the  same  season 
it  scatters  or  spreads  to  a  width  of  from  three  to 
four  hundred  feet,  when  it  breaks  uj)on  the  rocky 
masses  below. 

In  later  spring,  or  earlier  summer,  it  dwindles  to 
less  than  a  third  of  its  greatest  bulk  ;  and  its  most 
intimate  friend,  the  veteran  Yosemite  pioneer, 
Hutchings,  tells  us  that  he  has  seen  it  when  it 
hardly  seemed  more  than  a  silver  thread  winding- 
down  the  face  of  the  cliff.  Under  a  full  moon,  the 
element  of  weirdness  mingles  with  its  graceful 
grandeur,  shrouds  it  with  mystery,  and  transports 
one  into  a  soft  and  dreamy  wonder-land,  from 
which  he  cares  not  to  return. 

A  mile  further  on  our  way  back  toward  the  west- 
ern end,  brings  us  under,  or  in  front  of,  the  triple 
rocky  group,  or  three-peaked  stone-mountain, 
whose  name,  the  . 

Three   Brothers, 

readily  suggests  itself  to  one  standing  in  the  proper 
place  below.  They  are  tliree  huge,  bluntly  conical, 
rocky  peaks,  fronting  nearly  south,  slightly  inclined 
toward  the  valley  and  descending  in  height  as  they 
approach  it.  To  the  rude  Indian  fancy  they  might 
well  suggest  the  name  Porn-porn-pa-sue — "  Mount- 
ains playing  leap-frog," — with  which  they  christened 
them.  • 


48  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

The  higliest,  wliicli  is  the  northernmost,  the  one 
furthest  back  from  the  valley,  is  three  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high.  The  summit 
of  this  rock  is  readily  reached  by  a  trail  from  the 
rear,  and  affords  a  superb  view  of  the  valley  and  its 
surroundings.  Nearly  all  who  have  enjoyed  it  con- 
sider it  the  very  best  to  be  had. 

Another  mile-and-a-half  and  the  rocky  wonders 
of  Yosemite  fitly  culminate  and  terminate  in 

Tu-toch-ali-nu-lah, 

*'  The  Great  Chief  of  the  Valley"  more  commonly, 
though  very  weakly,  called  "El  Capitan,"  an  ordi- 
nary Spanish  word,  meaning  simply,  "the  Captain;" 
good  enough  for  a  feny-boat  or  river  steamer,  but 
entirely  beneath  the  dignity  of  this  most  magnifi- 
cent rock  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 

Tu-toch-ah-nulah  is  an  immense  granite  cliff,  pro- 
jecting angularly  into  the  valley,  toward  the  south- 
west. It  has  tw©  fronts,  one  facing  nearly  west, 
the  other  southeasterh",  meeting  in  a  sub-acute 
angle.  These  two  fronts  are  over  a  mile  long,  and 
three  thousand  three  hundred  feet  high,  smooth, 
bare  and  vertical,  and  bounded  above  by  a  sharp 
edge,  standing  pressed  against  the  sky,  which  its 
Atlas-like  shoulder  seems  made  to  uphold. 

The  State  Survey,  with  all  its  scientific  coolness, 
could  not  help  saying,  "  El  Capiian  imposes  upon 
us  by  its  stupendous  bulk,  which  seems  as  if  hewed 


TU-TOCH-AH-NU-LAH.  49 

from  the  mountains  on  purpose  to  stand  as  the  type 
of  eternal  massiveness.  It  is  doubtful,  if  anyy*  here 
in  the  world,  there  is  presented  so  squarely  cut,  so 
lofty  and  so  imposing  a  face  of  rock."  Starr  King- 
declared,  "  A  more  majestic  object  than  this  rock, 
I  never  expect  to  see  on  this  planet."  Horace 
Greeley,  who  enjoyed  the  rare  experience  of  enter- 
ing the  valley  by  night,  and  in  moonlight  too,  thus 
pays  tribute  to  the  Great  Chief  : 

"  That  first,  full,  deliberate  gaze,  up  the  opposite 
height  !  Can  I  ever  forget  it?  The  valley  here,  is 
scarcely' half  a  mile  wide,  while  its  northern  wall 
of  mainly  naked,  perpendicular  granite,  is  at  least 
four  thousand  feet  high,  probably  more.  But  the 
modicum  of  moonlight  that  fell  into  this  awful 
gorge,  gave  to  that  precipice  a  vagueness  of  outline, 
an  indefinite  vastness,  a  ghostly  and  weird  spiritu- 
ality. Had  the  mountain  spoken  to  me  in  an  audi- 
ble voice,  or  begun  to  lean  over  with  the  purpose  of 
burying  me,  I  should  hardly  have  been  surprised." 

After  Tutochahnulah,  nothing  on  earth  can  seem 
ver}^  grand  or  overpowering,  and  with  this  the  won- 
ders of  the  valley  fitly  close. 

"We  have,  by  no  means,,  seen  all  the  falls,  nor  even 
mentioned  all  the  peaks,  but  the  others  are  of  little 
note  in  Yosemite,  though,  elsewhere,  tourists  might 
go  a  thousand  miles  to  see  the  least  of  them.  This 
valley  is,  beyond  com^Darison,  the  most,  wonderful 
and  beautiful  of  all  earthly  sights.  No  matter  how 
3 


50  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

incredulous  one  may  be  before  entering,  the  Great 
Chief  and  his  tremendous  allies,  soon  crush  him 
into  the  most  humble  and  complete  subjection.  Do 
not  expect,  however,  that  your  first  view  will  stag- 
ger your  skepticism.  On  the  contrary,  it  may  even 
confirm  it.  Upon  our  first  view  of  Tutochahnulah, 
as  we  were  walking  into  the  valley,  one  bright  July 
forenoon,  we  stopped  a  mile  and  a  half  from  its 
foot,  collected  ourselves  for  a  calm,  cool,  mathemat-* 
ical  judgment  and  said  with  all  confidence,  "  That 
rock  isn't  over  fifteen  hundred  feet  high.  It  can't 
be.  Why,  just  look  at  that  tree  near  its  base. 
That  tree,  certainly,  can't  be  more  than  a  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  certainly,  the  cliff 
doesn't  rise  more  than  ten  times  its  height  above  it." 
But,  unfortunately,  we  had  forgotten  that  never 
before  had  we  seen  the  works  of  nature  on  as  grand 
a  scale.  One's  judgment  has  to  change  its  base. 
He  has  to  reconstruct  it  ;  to  adopt  a  new  unit. 
Comparison  serv^es  him  little,  for  he  has  no  ade- 
quate standard  by  which  to  measure,  or  with 
which  to  compare  the  rock-mountains  before  him. 
They  are  like  nothing  else.  They  are  a  law  unto 
themselves,  and  one  must  learn  the  law,  the  new 
law,  before  he  can  begin  to  enter  the  secret  of  their 
greatness.  Look  at  that  tree.  Elsewhere  3'ou 
would  call  it  lofty.  It  measures  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  and  yet,  that  wall  of  solid  rock  behind 
rises  straight  up  to  twenty  times  its  height  above  it. 


YO  SEMITE.  51 


Look  again;  now,  turn  away;  shut  eyes  and  think. 
Forget  all  former  standards  and  adopt  the  new. 
Slowly  you  begin  to  '^  even  "  yourself  to  the  stu- 
pendous scale  of  the  gigantic  shapes  around. 

Even  Niagara  requires  two  or  three  days  before 
one  begins  to  fully  realize  or  truly  appreciate  its 
greatness.  How  much  more,  then,  Yosemite,  com- 
pared with  which  Niagara  is  but  a  very  little  thing  ! 
Then,  on  the  other  hand,  one  must  remember  that 
after  he  has  adjusted  himself  to  the  new  and  grand- 
er scale  of  Yosemite,  upon  coming  out  into  the 
midst  of  ordinary  hills  and  mountains,  for  several 
days  they  seem  Ioav  and  flat  and  small. 

A  single  visit  to  Yosemite  dwarfs  all  other  natu- 
ral wonders  and  spoils  one  for  all  places  else.  He 
who  has  seen  it  listens  quietly  to  the  most  enthusi- 
astic rhapsodies  of  the  most  Avidely  traveled  tour- 
ists, and  simply  answers,  with  a  calm,  superior 
smile,  ' '  Ah,  that's  all  very  well,  but  you  should  see 

The  Traveler's  University — should  such  an  insti- 
tution ever  exist — can  never  righteously  graduate 
the  most  widely  traveled  tourist,  until  he  can  truth- 
fully add  to  his  name,  "  Y.  S.  T."— Yosemite  Tour- 
ist. 


52  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


THE  BIG   TREES. 


Teh  California  Big  Trees  are  a  kind  of  Redwood ; 
or,  if  the  strictest  and  most  scientific  judgment 
does  not  rank  tliem  in  the  same  family,  it  must,  at 
least,  allow  a  very  close  relationship) . 

Nine  gToVes  are  already  certainly  known,  and, 
every  year  or  two,  as  the  exploration  of  the  State 
becomes  more  exact,  or  approaches  completion, 
other  smaller  gToves,  straggling  gi'oups  or  solitaiy 
clumps,  are  added  to  the  number.  Of  all  those 
thus  far  discovered  the  Calaveras  Grove  and  the 
Mariposa  Grove  are  the  most  celebrated,  both  from 
the  extent  of  the  groves  and  the  size  and  height  of 
the  trees  composing  them. 

The  Calaveras  Grove 

receives  its  name  from  that  of  the  county  in  which 
it  stands.  It  is  near  the  source  of  the  south  fork 
of  the  Calaveras  river,  while  the  upper  tributaries 
of  the  Mokelumne  and  the  Stanislaus  rivers  flow 
near  it :  the  foiTaer  on  the  north,  the  latter  on  the 
southeast.  It  is  about  sixteen  miles  from  Mur- 
phy's Camp,  and  on  or  near  the  road  crossing  the 
Sierras  by  the  Silver  Mountain  Pass.     This  grove 


THE  CALAVERAS   GROVE:  53 

has  received  more  visitors  and  attained  gre'ater 
celebrity  than  any  other,  for  four  reasons  : 

1st.  It  vras  the  first  discovered. 

2d.  It  was  nearer  the  principal  routes  of  travel, 
hence  more  easily  accessible. 

3d.  One  can  visit  it  on  wheels. 

4th.  Last,  and  best  for  the  tired  tourist,  an  ex- 
cellent hotel  at  the  verj^iargin  of  the  grove;  Sper- 
ly  &  Perry,  projDrietors. 

The  grove  extends  northeast  and  southwest  about 
five  eighths  of  a  mile.  Its  width  is  only  about  one 
fifth  as  great.  It  stands  in  a  shallow  valley  be- 
tween two  gentle  slopes.  Its  height  above  the 
sea  is  four  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty-nine 
feet.  In  late  spring  or  early  winter  a  small  brook 
winds  and  bubbles  through  the  grove ;  but  under 
the  glare  of  summer  suns  and  the  gaze  of  throng- 
ing visitors,  it  modestly  "dries  up." 

The  grove  contains  about  ninety  trees  which  can 
be  called  really  "big,"  besides  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  smaller  ones  deferentially  grouped  around 
the  outskirts.  Several  of  the  larger  ones  have  fallen 
since  the  grove  was  discovered,  in  the  spring  of 
1852;  one  has  had  the  bark  stripped  off  to  the 
height  of  one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet,  and  one 
has  been  cut  down,  or,  rather,  bored  and  sawed 
down.  The  bark  thus  removed  was  exhibited  in 
different  cities  in  this  country,  and  finally  deposited 
in  the  Sydenham  Crystal  Palace,  England,  only  to 
be  burned  in  the  fire  which  destroyed  a  part  of  that 


54  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

building  some  years  since.  The  two  trees  thus 
destroyed  were  among  the  finest,  if  not  the  very 
finest  in  the  grove.  Among  those  now  standing, 
the  tallest  is  the  ^'KeA'stone  State;"  the  largest 
and  finest,  the  "Empire  State." 

The  following  table  gives  the  height  of  all  the 

trees  measured  by  the  State  Sui-i^ey,  and  their 
gii'th  six  feet  from  the  ground  : 

Names  of  Trees.  Girth.  Height. 

Keystone  State .  45  ^'  32^ 

General  Jackson 4U  319 

Mother  of  the  Forest  (without  bark) 61  315 

Daniel  Webster 47  307 

Kiehard   Cobden 41  284 

Starr  King .^ 52  283 

Pride  of  the  Forest : •. 48  282 

Heni-i'  Clay 47  280 

Bay  State 46  275 

Jas.  King  of  William 51  274 

Sentinel 49  272 

Dr.  Kane 50  271 

Arbor  Vitae  Queen •. 30  269 

Abraham  Lincoln 44  268 

Maid  of  Honor 27  266 

Old  VeiTQont  40  265 

Uncle  Sam 43  265 

Mother  (and  Son) 51  261 

Three  Graces  (highest) 30  262 

Wm.  CuUen  Bryant 48  262 

U.  S.  Grant 34  261 

Gen.  Scott 43  258 

Geo.  Washing-ton .- 51  256 

Henry  Ward  Beecher .» 34  252 

California 33  250 

Uncle  Tom's  Cabin 50  250 

Beauty  of  the  Forest 39  249 

J.  B.  McPherson 31  246 

Florence  Nightingale 37  246 

James  Wadsworth 27  239 

Elihu  Burritt 31  231 


/f 


THE  CALAVERAS    GROVE.  55. 

The  exact  measurement  of  the  diameter  and  the 
ascertaining  of  the  age  of  one  of  the  largest  trees 
in  this  grove,  was  accomplished  by  cutting  it  down. 
This  was  done  soon  after  the  discovery  of  the  grove. 
It  occupied  five  men  during  twenty-two  days. 
They  did  it  by  boring  into  the  tree  with  pump  au- 
gers. The  tree  stood  so  perfectly  vertical  that, 
even  after  they  had  bored.it  completely  off,  it  would 
not  fall.  It  took  three  days'  labor  driving  huge 
Avedges  in  jiipon  one  side  until  the  monumental 
monster  leaned,  toppled  and  fell. 

They  hewed  and  smoothed  off  the  stump  six  feet 
above  the  ground,  and  then  made  careful  measure- 
ments as  follows :  * 

Across  its  longest  diameter,  north  of  centre,  10  feet  4  inches. 
Across  its  longest  diameter,  south  of  centre,  13    "    9%    " 


Total  largest  diameter,  24  feet  1%  iuc's. 

• 

The  shorter  diameter,  from  east  to  west,  was 
twenty-three  feet,  divided  exactly  even,  eleven  and 
one  half  feet  from  the  centre  each  way. 

The  thickness  of  the  bark  averaged  eighteen 
inches.  This  would  add  three  feet  to  the  diameter, 
making  the  total  diameter  as  the  tree  originally 
stood,  a  little  over  twenty-seven  feet  one  way,  and 
twenty-six  feet  the  other.  That  is  eigMy-five  feet  in 
circumference,  six  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  age  was  ascertained  thus  :  After  it  had  been 
felled,  it  was  again  cut  through  about  thirty  feet 


56       .         BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

from  the  first  cut.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  section, 
which  was,  of  course,  nearly  forty  feet  above  the 
ground,  as  the  tree  originally  stood,  they  carefully 
counted  the  rings  of  annual  gTowth,  at  the  same 
time  exactly  measuring  the  width  of  each  set  of  one 
hundred  rings,  counting  from  the  outside  inwards. 
These  were  the  figures  : 

First  hundred  rings 3.0  inches. 


Second 
Third 

Fourth       " 
Fifth 
Sixth 

Seventh  " 
Eighth  " 
Ninth 
Tenth  '  " 
Eleventh  " 
Twelfth  " 
Fifty-five  years 


3.7 


4.1 

3.9 

4.1 

4.1 

4.6 

5.6 

7.3 

7.9 

10.1 

13.0 

9.4 

1.255  years.  80.8  inches. 

A  small  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  tree  prevented 
the  exact  detennining  of  the  number  of  rings  which 
had  rotted  away,  or  were  missing  from  the  centre ; 
but  allowing  for  that,  as  well  as  for  the  time  which 
the  tree  must  have  taken  to  gTow  to  the  height  at 
which  they  made  the  count,  it  is  probably  spealdng 
within  bounds,  to  say  that  this  tree  was,  in  round 
numbers,  thirteen  hundred  years  old  ! 

As  the  table  shows,  this  grove  contains  four  trees 
over  three  hundred  feet  high.  The  heights  of  these 
big  trees,  in  both  the  great  groves,   are  usually 


THE   MARIPOSA  GROVE,        .  ^57 

OYerstated.  The  above  measurements  Avere  care- 
fully and  scientifically  made — in  several  cases  re- 
peated and  verified — and  may  be  relied  on  as  correct. 

The  "Keystone  State"  enjoys  the  proud  honor  of 
lifting  its  head  higher  than  ^ny  other  tree  now 
■known  to  be  standing  on  the  western  continent. 
Australia  has  trees  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  hi^-her. 
The  stories  occasionally  told  of  trees  over  four 
hundred  feet  high  having  once  stood  in  this  grove, 
have  no  reasonable  foundation  and  are  not  entitled 
to  belief.  Neither  is  it  true,  as  some  have  marvel- 
ously  asserted,  that  it  takes  two  men  and  a  boy, 
working  half  a  day  each,  to  look  to  the  top  of  the 
highest  tree  in  this  grove. 

The  Calaveras  trees,  as  a  rule,  are  taller  and  slim- 
mer than  those  of  Mariposa.  This  has  probably 
resulted  from  their  growing  in  a  spot  more  shel- 
tered from  the  high  winds  which  sweep  across  the 
Sierra,  to  which  other  groves  have  been  more 
exposed. 

The  Mariposa  Grove, 

likewise  named  from  the  county  in  which  it  stands, 
is  about  sixteen  miles  directly  south  of  the  lower 
hotel  in  Yosemite  valley,  and  about  four  miles 
southeast  of  Clark's  Eanch.  Like  the  Calaveras 
Grove,  it  occupies  a  shallow  valley  or  depression 
in  the  back  of  a  ridge  which  runs  easterly  between 
Big  Creek  and  the  South  Merced.  One  branch  of 
the  creek  rises  in  the  grove. 


58  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

The  grant  made  by  Congress  is  two  miles  square 
and  embraces  two  distinct  groves  ;  that  is,  two  col- 
lections of  big  trees,  separated  by  a  considerable 
space  having  none.  The  upper  grove  contains 
three  hundred  and  sixty-five  trees  of  the  true  Se- 
quoia Gigardea  species,  having  a  diameter  of  one 
foot  or  over.  Besides  these,  are  a  great  number  of 
younger  and  smaller  ones. 

The  lower  grove  is  not  as  large,  and  its  trees  are 
more  scattered.  It  lies  southwesterly  from  the  up- 
per. Some  of  its  trees  grow  quite  high  up  the 
gulches  on  the  south  side  of  the  ridge  which  sepa- 
rates the  two  groves. 

On  Wednesday,  July  7th,  1869,  the  largest  trees 
of  this  grove  were  carefully  measured,  under  the 
guidance  and  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Clarke 
himself,  one  of  the  State  Commissioners  charged 
with  the  care  of  these  groves  and  of  the  Yosemite 
valley.  To  prevent  misunderstanding  and  insure 
uniformity,  each  tree  was  measured  three  feet  from 
the  ground,  excej^t  where  the  outside  of  the  base 
was  burned  away,  when  the  tree  was  gu'ted  seven 
and  a  half  feet  above  giound. 

The  following  figures  are  taken  from  that  day's 
phonographic  journal,  written  on  the  sjDot  : 

The  "Grizzly  Giant,"  seven  and  one  half  feet  up, 
measures  seventy-eight  and  one  half  feet  in  circum- 
ference. Three  feet  above  ground  this  tree  meas- 
ured over  a  hundred  feet  round ;  but  several  feet 


THE  MARIPOSA  GROVE.  59 

of  this  measurement  came  from  projecting  roots, 
wliere  they  swell  out  from  the  trunk  into  the  mam- 
moth diagonal  braces  or  shores,  necessary  to  sup- 
port and  stiffen  such  a  gigantic  structure  in  its  hold 
upon  the  earth. 

One  hundred  feet  up,  an  immense  branch,  over 
six  feet  through,  grows  out  horizontally  some  twen- 
ty feet,  then  turns  like  an  elbow  and  goes  up  forty 
feet.  It  naturally  suggests  some  huge  gladiator, 
uncovering  his  biceps  and  drawing  up  his  arm  to 
*' show  his  muscle."  This  is  the  largest  tree  now 
standing  in  the  grove,  and  is  the  one  of  which 
Starr  King  wrote  : 

"I  confess  that  my  own  feeling,  as  I  first  scanned 
it,  and  let  the  eye  roam  up  its  tawny  pillar,  was  of 
intense  disappointment.  But  then,  I  said  to  my- 
self, this  is,  doubtless,  one  of  the  striplings  of  this 
Anak  brood — only  a  small  affair  of  some  forty  feet 
in  girth.  •  I  took  out  the  measuring  line,  fastened 
it  on  the  trunk  with  a  knife,  and  walked  around, 
unwinding  as  I  went.  The  line  was  seventy-five 
feet  long.  I  came  to  the  end  before  completing 
the  circuit.  Nine  feet  more  were  needed.  I  had 
dismounted  before  a  structure  eighty-four  feet  in 
circumference,  and  nearly  three  hundred  feet  high, 
and  I  should  not  have  guessed  that  it  would  meas- 
ure more  than  fifteen  feet  through." 

Here,  as  in  Yosemite  and  at  Niagara,  tourists  are 
usually  disappointed  in  the  first  view.     The  lifelong 


6o  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

familiarity  with  lesser  magnitudes  makes  it  almost 
impossible  for  tlie  mind  to  free  itself  from  tlie  tram- 
mels of  habit,  and  leap  at  a  single  bound,  into  any 
adequate  perception  of  the  incredible  magnitudes 
which  confront  him.  One  needs  spend  at  least  a 
week  among  these  Brobdignagian  bulks,  come  twice 
a  day  and  stay  twelve  hours  each  time,  before  he 
grows  to  any  worthy  apx^reciation  of  their  unbe- 
lievable bigness. 

Of  the  other  trees,  the  largest  ten,  measured 
three  feet  above  gTound,  gave  the  following  cir- 
cumferences : 

La  Fayette 83  feet. 

The  Governor ,.   75  " 

Cbas,  Crocker 75  " 

The  Chief  Commissioner 74  " 

Governor  Stanford 74  " 

Washington ." 72  " 

Phito's  Chimney 71  " 

The  Big  Diamond  (Koh-i-noor) 65  " 

The  Governor's  Wife 62  " 

The  Forest  Queen 58  " 

Others  of  equal  size,  possibly  greater  than  some 
above,  were  not  measured. 

"  The  Grovernor"  is  a  generic  name,  applied  in 
honor  of  him  who  may  happen  to  be  the  actual  in- 
cumbent at  any  time.  At  present,  of  course,  it 
means  Gov.  Haight.  It  is  an  actual  botanical  fact, 
that  the  tree  has  actually  gained  in  height  under 
the  present  gubernatorial  administration.  It  cer- 
tainly is  not  as  low(e)  by  several  inches  as  during 


THE  MARIPOSA   GROVE.  6i 

tlie  reign,  or  lack  of  rain,  of  the  preceding  in- 
cumbent. 

The  same  general  complimentary  intention 
christened  the  •' '  Gavernor's  Wife,"  which  has  as 
graceful  a  form  and  as  dignified  a  bearing  among 
trees  as  such  a  lady  should  have  among  the  women 
of  the  State.  Then,  too,  the  tree  stands  with  a 
gentle  inclination  toward  '^  The  Governor,"  which 
may  not  be  without  its  suggestions  to  those  fond  of 
tracing  analogies.  ^ 

The  "  Chief  Commissioner"  is  the  largest  of  a 
clump  of  eight,  which  stand  grouped,  as  if  in  con- 
sultation, at  a  respectful  distance  from  the  Gov- 
ernor. 

"  Pluto's  Chimney"  is  a  huge  old  stump,  burned 
and  blackened  all  over,  inside  and  out.  Hibernian 
visitors  sometimes  call  ic  "The  Devil's Dhudeen." 
It  is  between  forty  and  fifty  feet  high.  On  one 
side  of  the  base  is  a  huge  opening,  much  like  a 
a  Puritan  fireplace  or  a  Scotch  inglenook;  while 
within,  the  whole  tree  is  burned  away  so  that  one 
can  look  up  and  out  clear  to  the  very  sky  through  its 
huge  cii'cular  chimney.  Outside,  the  bark  and  the 
roots  have  been  burned  wholly  away.  Before  the 
burning,  this  tree  must  have  equaled  the  largest. 

Nearly  in  front  of  the  cabin  ir^the  upper  grove, 
and  not  far  from  the  delicious  spring  before  alluded 
to,  stands  a  solitaiy  tree  having  its  roots  burned 
away  on  one  side,  leaning  south,  and  presenting  a 


62  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

general  appearance  of  tiying  to  *'  swing  round  tlie 
circle."  In  view  of  all  these  facts,  some  imagina- 
tive genius  once  christened  it  "Andy  JohnsOn." 
The  only  inappropriate  thing  in  the  application  of 
that  name  was  the  fact  that  the  tree  stood  so  near 
a  sj)ring  of  cold  water.  The  "  Big  Diamond"  or 
' '  Koh-i-noor"  is  the  largest  of  a  group  of  four  veiy 
straight  and.  symmetrical  trees  occupying  the  cor- 
ners of  a  regular  rhombus  or  lozenge,  so  exactly 
d^wn  as  to  readily  suggest  the  name  ' '  Diamond 
Group,"  by  which  they  have  been  called. 

As  already  remarked,  the  Mariposa  Grove  really 
consists  of  two  gi'oves — the  upper  and  the.  lower, 
which  approach  within  a  half  mile  of  each  other. 
The  upper  grove  contains  three  hundred  and  sixty- 
five  trees;  one  for  eveiy  day  in  the  year,  with  large 
ones  for  Sundays.  By  an  unfortunate  omission, 
however,  it  makes  no  provision  for  leap  year.  This 
is  the  principal  objection  which  luimarried  spinster 
tourists  have  thus  far  been  able  to  urge  against  it. 

The  lower  grove  has  two  hundred  and  forty-one 
trees,  generally  smaller  than  ttiose  of  the  upper 
grove.  The  total  number  in  both  groves,  according 
to  the  latest  official  count,  is  six  hundred  and  six. 

Within  ten  years  several  trees  have  fallen,  and 
others  follow  thei^i  from  time  to  time,  so  that  the 
most  accurate  count  of  them  made  in  any  one  year 
might  not  tally  with  another  equally  careful  count 
a  year  earlier  or  later. 


THE   MARIPOSA  GROVE.  63 

Among  the  prostrate  trees  lies  the  "  Fallen  Giant/' 
measuring  eighty-five  feet  around,  three  feet  from 
the  present  base.  The  bark,  the  sapwood,  the  roots, 
and  probably  the  original  base,  are  all  burned 
away.  When  standing,  this  monster  must  have 
been  by  far  the  largest  in  both  groves,  and, 
indeed,  Ifirger  than  any  now  known  in  the  world. 
It  should  have  been  called  "  Lucifer,"  a  name 
hereby  respectfully  submitted  for  the  consideration 
of  future  tourists. 

The  living  trees  of  this  species  exude  a  dark- 
colored  substance,  looking  like  gum,  but  readily 
dissolving  in  water.  This  has  a  veiy  acrid,  bitter 
taste,  which  probably  aids  in  preserving  the  tree 
from  injurious  insects,  and  preventing  the  decay  of 
the  woody  fibre. 

The  fruit  or  seed  is  hardly  conical,  but  rather 
ellipsoidal  or  rudely  oval  in  form,  an  inch  and  a 
half  long  by  one  inch  through,  and  looking  far  too 
insignificant  to  contain  the  actual  germ  of  the  most 
gigantic  structure  known  to  botanical  science. 

Their  age,  indicated  by  the  concentric  rings  of 
annual  growth,  carefully  counted  and  registered  by 
the  gentlemen  of  the  State  Survisy,  varies  from  five 
to  thirteen,  possibly  fifteen,  centuries. 

The  word  '^  Sequoia,"  is  the  Latin  form  of  the 
Indian  Sequoyah,  the  name  of  a  Cherokee  Inclian 
of  mixed  blood,  w^ho  is  supposed  to  have  been  born 
about  1770,  and  who  lived  in  Will's  Yalley,  in  the 


64  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

extreme  northeastern  corner  of  Alabama,  among 
the  Cherokees.  His  English  name  Tvas  George 
Guess.  He  became  famous  by  his  invention  of  an 
alphabet,  and  written  letters  for  his  tribe.  This 
alphabet  was  constructed  with  wonderful  ingenuity. 
It  consisted  of  eighty-six  characters,  each  repre- 
senting a  syllable,  and  it  had  already  come  into 
considerable  use  before  the  whites  heard  anything 
of  it.  After  a  while,  the  missionaries  took  up 
Sequoyah's  idea,  had  types  cast,  supj)lied  a  j)rint- 
ing  press  to  the  Cherokee  nation,  and  in  1828 
started  a  newspaper  printed  partly  with  these  types. 
Driven,  with  the  rest  of  his  tribe,  bej^ond  the 
Mississippi,  he  died  in  New  Mexico,  in  1843.  His 
alphabet  is  still  in  use,  though  destined  to  pass 
away  with  his  doomed  race,  but  not  into  complete 
oblivion,  for  his  name,  attached  to  one  of  the 
gi'andest  productions  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  will 
keep  his  memory  forever  green. 

For  the  foregoing  bit  of-  aboriginal  biography, 
we  gTatefully  acknowledge  our  obligation  to  *Prof . 
Brewer  and  the  gentlemen  of  the  State  Sui-vey,  to 
whom  he  originally  furnished  it. 

Had  Sequoyah's*  name  been  Cadmus — had  the 
Cherokees  been  Phenicians — aud  had  this  modern 
heathen  of  the  eighteenth  century  invented  his 
alphabet  away  back  before  the  Christian  era,  his 
name  would  have  stood  in  every  school  history 
among  those  of  inventors,  philosophers,  discoverers 


THE  MARIPOSA    GROVE.  65 

and  benefactors ;  as  it  is  he's  *'  only  an  Indian." 
No  one  can  deny,  however,  that  he  was  one  of  the 
best  re(a)d  men  in  the  history  of  the  world. 

Botji  the  Calaveras  and  the  Mariposa  groves  con- 
tain hollow  trunks  of  fallen  trees,  through  which, 
or  into  which,  two  and  even  three  horsemen  can 
ride  abreast  for  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  Each  grove, 
also,  has  trees  which  have  been  burned  out  at  the 
base,  but  have  not  fallen.  Still  standing,  they  con- 
tain or  enclose  huge  charcoal-lined  rooms,  into 
which  one  can  ride.  The  writer  has  been  one  of 
four  mounted  men  who  rode  their  horses  into  such 
a  cavity  in  the  Mariposa  grove,  and  reined  their 
horses  up  side  by  side  without  crowding  each  other 
or  pressing  the  outside  one  against  the  wall. 

One  who  has  seen  only  the  ordinary  big  trees  of 
*'  down  east,"  or  "  out  west,"  forests,  finds  it  hard 
to  believe  that  any  such  vegetable  monsters  can 
really  exist.  Even  the  multiplied  and  repeated 
assurances  of  friends  who  have  actually  '*  8een  them, 
sir,"  and  "  measured  them  myself,  I  tell  you," 
hardly  arrest  the  outward  expression  of  incredulity, 
and  seldom  win  the  inward  faith  of  the  skeptical 
hearer.  Fancy  j^ourself  sitting  down  to  an  after- 
dinner  chat  in  the  fifteen-foot  sitting  room,  adjoin- 
ing the  dining  room  of  equal  size.  You  fall  to 
talking  of 'the  "  Big  Trees."  You  say,  ''  Why,  my 
dear  sjr,  I  have  actually  rode  into,  and  sat  upon  my 
horse  in,  a  tree  whose  hollow  was  so  big  that  you 


66  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S    GUIDE. 

could  put  botli  these  rooms  into  it,  side  by  side,  and 
still  have  seyen  or  eight  feet  of  solid  wood  standing 
on  each  side  of  me.  No,  sir,  not  romancing  at  all. 
It's  an  actual,  scientific,  measured/«c^,  sir."  ^  Your 
friend  looks  quizzically  and  incredulously  into  both 
your  eyes,  as  he  says,  "  Why,  now  see  here,  my 
dear  fellow,  do  you  supj^ose  I'm  going  to  believe 
that  ?  Tell  a  moderate  whopper,  and  back  it  up 
with  such  repeated  assertion  and  scientific  authoiity, 
and  you  might  possibly  make  me  believe  it,  or  at 
least,  allow  it  until  you  were  fairly  out  of  hearing; 
but  to  sit  here  at  a  man's  own  fireside  and  tell  him 
such  a  monstrous  story  as  that,  and  expect  him  to 
swallow  it  for  truth — ah,  no,  my  dear  fellow,  that's 
too  much,  altogether  too  much." 

So  you  have  to  give  it  over  and  drop  the  argu- 
ment for  the  present,  in  the  hope  that  some  one  of 
the  numerous  excursion  jiarties,  now  so  rapidly 
multiplying  every  year,  will  soon  include  him,  cany 
him  into  the  actual  j)resence  of  these  veritable 
monsters  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  confront  him 
with  theu'  colossal  columns,  and  compel  his  belief. 

And  yet  the  general  incredulity  is  hardly  to  be 
wondered  M,  after  all.  In  nearly  every  one  of  us,  our 
faith  in  what  may  be,  largely  depends  upon  our 
j)ersonal  knowledge  of  the  facts  which  have  been. 
In  matters  pertaining  to  the  outward,  the  material, 
the  physical  world,  our  actual  experience  of  the 
j)ast  governs  our  belief  as  to  the  future.     And  even 


BIG    TREES.  67 


when  the  objects  of  our  disbelief  are  set  bodily  be- 
fore our  vision,  and  we  have  actually  seen  tliem  and 
handled  them,  it  is  often  difficult  to  believe  our 
own  eyes.  So  far  is  "  seeing  from  believing"  when 
the  sight  so  far  surpasses  all  former  experience. 

There  is  another  grove  of  big  trees  in  Fresno 
county,  about  fourteen  miles  southeast  of  Clark's. 
It  is  not  far  from  a  conspicuous  point  called  Wam- 
melo  Eock.  The  State  Survey  did  not  include  it, 
neither  have  tourists  usually  visited  it.  According 
to  the  description  of  Mr.  Clark,  who  has  partially 
explored  it,  it  extends  for  more  than  two  miles  and 
a  half  in  length,  by  from  one  to  two  in  width.  He 
has  counted  five  hundred  trees  in  it,  and  believes-  it 
to  contain  not  far  from  six  hundred  in  all.  The 
largest  which  he  measured  had  a  circumference  of 
eighty-one  feet  at  three  feet  from  the  ground. 

Following  along  the  slope  of  the  Sierras,  to  the 
southeast  about  fifty  miles,  l^etween  King's  aild 
Kaweah  rivers,  we  find  the  largest  grove  of  these 
trees  yet  discovered  in  the  State. 

The  State  Survey  partially  explored  this  locality, 
and  have  given  us  the  following  particulars:  The 
trees  form  a  belt  rather  than  a  grove.  This  belt  is 
found  about  thirty  miles  north-northeast  of  Visalia, 
near  the  tributaries  of  the  King's  and  Kaweah 
rivers,  and  along  the  divide  between.  They  are 
scattered  up  and  down  the  slopes  and  along  the 


68  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

valleys,  but  reach  tlieir  greatest  size  ia  tlie  shallow 
basins  where  the  soil  is  more  moist. 

Along  the  trail  from  VisaKa  to  Big  Meadows  the 
belt  is  four  or  five  miles  wide  and  extends  through 
a  verticalTange  of  twenty-five  hundred  feet;  that  is, 
the  trees  along  the  lower  edge  of  the  bplt  stand 
nearly  half  a  mile  in  perpendicular  height  below 
those  along  its  upper  boundary.  The  length  of 
this  belt  is  as  much  as  eight  or  ten  .miles  and  may 
be  more. 

These  trees  are  not  collected  in  groves,  but 
straggle  along  through  the  forests  in  company  with 
the  other  species  usually  found  at  this  height  in 
the  Sierras.  They  are  most  abundant  between  six 
and  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Their  num- 
ber is  very  great;  probably  thousands  might  be 
counted.  In  size,  however,  they  are  not  remarka- 
ble; that  is,  in  comparison  mth  those  of  Calaveras 
aftd  Marix^osa.  Bj^t  few  exceed  twenty  feet  in 
diameter — the  average  is  from  ten  to  twelve  feet, 
while  the  great  majority  are  smaller. 

One  tree  which  had  been  felled,  had  a  diameter 
of  eight  feet,  not  including  the  bark,  and  was  three 
hundred  and  seventy-seven  years  old.  The  largest 
one  seen  wag  near  Thomas'  ^lill.  This  had  a  cir- 
cumference of  one  hundred  and  six  feet  near  the 
ground,  though  quite  a  portion  of  the  base  had 
been  burned  away. 

Another  tree,  which  had  fallen  and  been  burnecT 


% 


BIG  TREES.  69 


hollow,  was  so  large  that  three  horsemen  could  ride 
abreast  into  the  cavity  for  thii'ty  feet,  its  inside 
height  and  width  being  nearly  twelve  feet.  Seventy 
feet  in,  the  diameter  of  the  cavity  was  still  as  much 
as  eight  feet. 

The  base  of  this  tree  could  not  be  easily  meas- 
ured ;  but  the  trunk  was  burned  off  at  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  from  the  base,  and  at  that  point 
had  a  diameter,  not  including  the  bark,  of  thirteen 
feet  and  two  inehes.  At  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
nine  feet  from  its  base,  this  tree  was  still  nine  feet 
through.  The  Indians  speak  of  a  still  Jarger  tree 
to  the  north  of  King's  river.  It  was  not  in  the 
power  of  the  State  Survey  to  look  it  up  and  meas- 
ure it  at  that  time. 

All  through  these  forests  young  Big  Trees  of  all 
sizes,  from  the  seedling  upwards,  were  very  numer- 
ous. At  Thomas'  Mill  they  cut  them  up  into  lum- 
ber, as  if  they  were  the  most  common  tree  in  the 
forest. 

Fallen  tininks  of  old  .trees  are  also  numerous. 
Many  of  these  must  have  lain  for  ages,  as  they  had 
almost  wholly  rotted  away,  though  the  wood  is 
very  durable. 

Judging  from  the  number  o'f  these  trees  found 
between  King's  and  Kaweah  rivers,  it  would  seem 
that  the  Big  Trees  best  like  that  locality  and  its 
vicinity,  so  that  it  is  not  improbable  that  a  further 


70  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

exiDloration  would  show  a  continuous  belt  of  some 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  extent. 

From  tlie  researches  thus  far  made,  it  appears 
that  the  Big  Tree  is  not  as  strange  and  exceptional 
as  most  supj)ose.  It  occurs  in  such  abundance,  of 
all  ages  and  sizes,  that  there  is  no  reason  to  con- 
clude that  it  is  djdng  out,  or  that  it  belongs  exclu- 
sively to  some  past  geological  or  botanical  epoch. 
The  age  of  the  big  trees  is  not  as  great  as  that  as- 
signed by  some  of  the  highest  auffiorities  to  some 
of  the  English  yews.  And  in  height  tHey  hardly 
begin  to  equal  that  of  the  Australian  Eucalyptus 
amygdalina,  many  of  which,  on  the  authority  of  Dr. 
MuUer,  the  eminent  Government  botanist,  have  ex- 
ceeded four  hundred  feet.  One,  indeed,  reached 
the  enormous  height  of  four  hundred  and  eighty 
feet,  thus  overtopping  the  tallest  Sequoia  by  one 
hundred  and  fifty-five  feet.  And  in  diameter,  alsS, 
there  are  trees  which  exceed  th^  Big  Tree,  as,  for 
example,  the  Baobab;  but  these  are  always  compar- 
atively low,  rarely  reachirfg  the  height  of  more  than 
sixty  or  seventy  feet,  while  their  excessive  diameter 
comes  from  a  peculiarly  swollen  and  distoi*ted  base. 
On  the  whole,  we  may  safely  claim  that  no  known 
tree  in  the  world  equals  the  California  Big  Trees  in 
-the  combined  elements  of  size  and  height, -and  in 
consequent  grandeur,  unless,  indeed,  it  may  be  the 
Eucalyptus.  The  largest  Australian  tree  yet  re- 
ported, is  said  to  be  eighty-one  feet  in  circumfer- 


BIG  TREES. 


ence,  four  feet  from  tlie  ground.  This  is  a  highly 
respectable  vegetable,  but  not  quite  equal  to  the 
certified  measurements  of  some  of  the  largest  of 
the  California  JBig  Trees. 

So  the  American  tourist  through  the  wonders  of 
California,  may  yet  claim  that  his  country  still  230s- 
sesses  the  loftiest  waterfalls,  the  most  overpower- 
ing cliffs,  and  the  grandest  trees  yet  known  upon 
the  face  of  the  globe. 


eANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


BOWER  CAVE. 


The  traveler  who  desires  good  roads,  romantic 
scenery,  comfortable  conTeyances-,  and  excellent 
hotel  accommodations,  will  be  sure  to  go  in  or  come 
out  by  way  of  Coulterville.  This  town  lies  on  Max- 
well creek,  a  branch  of  the  Merced,  about  eighteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  not  far  from  the 
border-land  between  the  *' foot-hills*'  and  the 
mountains  proper.  The  road  nins  from  Coulter- 
ville nearly  northeast,  about  eight  miles,  when  it 
strikes  the  North  Fork  of  the  Merced.  Along  the 
side  of  this  stream  it  descends  fgr  a  short  distance, 
then  crosses  and  passes  near  the 

Bo^wer  Cave. 

This  is  a  picturesque  and  unique  locality,  and  is 
well  worth  a  visit. 

The  cave  is  an  immense  crack  or  sink,  or  both 
combined,  in  the  solid  limestone  of  the  mountain- 
top.  At  the  sui'face  it  presents  a  somewhat  cres- 
cent-shaped Oldening,  one  hundred  and  thirty-three 
feet  long,  eighty-six  feet  wide  near  the  centre,  antl 


BOWER  CAVE. 


one  hundred  and  nine  feet  deep  in  the  deej)est 
place.  Trees  grow  from  the  bottom  and  lift  their 
branches  out  through  the  opening  at  the  top,  while 
a  beautifully  tranquil  and  wonderfully  clear  lake 
occupies  the  greater  portion  of  the  floor. 

We  enter  at  the  north  end  and  go  down  by  a 
rough  but  strong  and  safe  staircase.  The  walls  of 
the  cleft  are  perpendicular,  or  nearly  so,  thoughout 
the  greater  portion  of  their  extent,  but  near  the 
south  end  the  upper  part  of  the  wall  projects  or 
overhangs  several  feet. 

The  bottom  has  the  form  of  an  irregular  square, 
measuring  over  a  hundred  feet  one  way  and  some- 
what less  than  a  hundred  the  other.  From  the 
bottom  and  near  the  centre  grow  three  large  maples, 
the  largest  of  which  is  more  than  two  feet  through, 
and  about  a  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high. 
Around  these  trees  are  benches,  capable  of  seating 
a  score  or  two  of  persons.  On  one  side  of  the  wall, 
some  twenty  feet  above  the  bottom,  is  a  singular 
niche  or  alcove  which  has  been  christened  the 
"Pulpit."  It  is  occasionally  used  for  the  legiti- 
mate purpose  of  similar  constructions,  though  more 
frequently  occupied  by  the  fiddler  of  some  festive 
party.  Upon  special  occasions,  such  as  a  Fourth 
of  July  celebration,  they  erect  tables  here  and  use 
all  the  available  floor  as  a  dining  hall.  Over  a  hun- 
dred have  thus  dined  here  at  one  time. 

In  one  corner,  and  nearly  under  the  pulpit,  is  a 
4 


74  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

small  but  singularly  beautiful  lake,  rendered  some- 
wliat  ghostly  and  mysterious  by  the  overhanging 
rocky  wall,  and  the  intercepted  light  falling  through 
the  overshadowing  trees.  Upon  this  lake  is  a  small 
boat,  in  which  the  imaginative  visitor  may  easily 
fancy  himself  crossing  the  Styx,  Tvith  himself  as  his 
own  Charon.  Not  far  from  the  corner  of  this 
lake,  nearly  under  the  pulj)it,  the  water  is  claimed 
to  have  an  immense  depth.  In  all  parts  it  is  so 
clear  that  one  can  plainly  see  the  cracks  and  crev- 
ices in  the  sloping  limestone  sides  at  the  depth  of 
foiiy  feet.  The  vision  would,  doubtless,  penetrate 
much  deejjer  did  not  the  overhanging  walls  obstruct 
the  light. 

Having  rowed  across  the  lake,  as  you  are  return- 
ing to  the  shore,  the  guide  may  possibly  ask  you  to 
keep  very  quiet  while  he  calls  and  feeds  his  fish. 
He  gives  a  few  soft  whistles,  places  his  hand  in  the 
water,  waits  a  moment,  repeats  his  whistle,  and 
softly  whispers,  "  Here  they  come."  Up  swim  sev- 
eral large  trout,  rub  their  noses  against  his  hand, 
and  circle  slowly  around  it,  evidently  waiting  for 
the  customar}"  food.  And  that  hand  seldom  disap- 
points them.  It  is  a  pleasant  and  restful  sight. 
After  enjoying  it,  seeing  them  finish  feeding,  and 
returning  to  the  landing,  you  ask  the  guide  how 
they  became  so  tame.  He  tells  you,  that  for  seve- 
ral weeks  after  putting  them  into  the  lake,  which 
he  did  some  years  ago,  he  came  every  day,  about 


BOWER  CAVE.  75 


the  same  time,  softly  whistling  and  gently  dropping 
crumbs  and  worms  into  the  water.  After  a  few 
days  he  began  to  hold  on  to  one  end  of  a  worm 
while  the  trout  would  swim  up,  take  hold  of  the 
other  end  and  tug  away  until  he  pulled  it  apart,  or 
the  hand  let  go.  After  a  few  months  they  seemed 
to  have  learned  to  associate  the  whistling  and  the 
feeding,  so  that  whenever  they  hear  the  first  they 
swim  up  in  evident  expectation  of  the  second. 

At  various  heights  upon  one  wall  several  large 
cavities  or  small  caves  are  worn  into  the  rock,  some 
of  which  admit  the  tourist  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. These  make  that  side  of  the  wall  a  collec- 
tion of  cells,  some  of  which  are  high  enough  to  per- 
mit the  visitor  to  walk  erect;  others  so  low  that 
they  compel  one  who  would  enter  to  crawl  upon 
his  hands  and  knees.  When  first  discovered, 
the  , walls  of  these  chambers  were  covered  with 
beautiful  stalactites  of  various  sizes  and  fanciful 
forms,  but  the  ruthless  hands  of  vandal  visitors 
have  gradually  broken  them  off  and  carried  them 
away,  until  hardly  a  trace  of  theu'  original  beauty 
and  variety  remains. 

During  the  heat  of  the  summer,  the  time  when 
nearly  all  visitors  enter  this  cave,  its  cool  and 
refreshing  temperature  makes  it  a  comfortable  and 
welcome  retreat,  especially  during  the  hotter  mid- 
day hours.  The  place  seems  as  if  nature  and  art 
had  combined  to  make  it  as  attractive  as  possible 


76  BANCROFTS  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

for  hot  weather  j)iciiics,  or  midsummer  lunch 
parties.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine,  and  almost  im- 
possible to  discover  a  more  fascinating  combination 
of  dell  and  grotto,  grove  and  lake,  cave- and  bower, 
than  nature  has  kindly  provided  for  the  toiuist  in 
the  romantic  Bower  Cave. 


ALABASTER   CAVE. 


The  following  account  of  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  all  nature's  marvels,  is  taken,  with  few  alter- 
ations, from  Yosemite  Hutchings'  book,  entitled 
"  Scenes  of  "Wonder  and   Curiosity  in  California.' 

The  Alabaster  Cave  is  in  El  Dorado  County, 
twelve  and  a  half  miles  from  Folsom  by  the  "Whisky 
Bar"  road,  and  ten  miles  by  the  El  Dorado  Valley 
turnpike.  Its  more  exact  location  is  upon  Kidd's 
Ravine,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  its 
opening  upon  the  north  fork  of  the  American  River. 
From  Sacramento  it  is  thirty-three  miles;  by  rail  to 
Folsom;  from  Auburn,  about  three  miles,  by  stage. 

It  was  discovered  in  April,  1860,  in  the  following 
way:  A  ledge  of  limestone,  resembling  marble  in 
appearance,  cropped  out  by  the  side  of  El  Dorado 
Valley  turnpike  road.  Ux)on  testing  it  was  found 
to  be  capable  of  producing  excellent  lime. 

On  the  18fch  of  April,  1860,  two  workmen,  George 
S.  Hatterman  and  John  Harris,  were  quariying 
limestone  from  this  ledge,  when,  upon  the  removal 
of  a  large  piece  of  rock,  they  discovered  a  dark 


78  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

opening  sufficiently  enlarged  to  permit  their  en- 
trance. "Availing  themselves  of  the  light  x^ouring 
in  through  the  opening,  they  went  in  as  far  as  they 
could  see — some  fifty  feet.  Before  venturing  fur- 
ther into  the  darkness,  they  threw  a  stone  forward, 
which,  striking  in  water,  determined  them  to  return 
for  lights.  At  this  junctui-e  Mr.  Gwinn,  the  owner 
of  the  ledge,  came  up,  and,  upon  learning  of  their 
discovery,  immediately  sent  for  candles  to  enable 
them  to  further  prosecute  their  explorations.  The 
result  of  these,  after  several  hours  spent  in  them, 
can  hardly  be  better  described  than  in  Mr.  Gwinn's 
own  language,  taken  from  a  letter,  dated  April  19, 
1860,  addressed  to  Mr.  Holmes,  a  gentleman  friend 
of  his  residiag  in  Sacramento,  and  first  published 
in  the  Bee^  of  that  city: 

"  Wonders  will  never  cease.  On  yesterday,  we, 
in  quarrying  rock,  made  an  opening  to  the  most 
beautiful  cave  you  ever  beheld.  On  our  first  en- 
trance we  descended  about  fifteen  feet,  gradually, 
to  the  centre  of  the  room,  w^hich  is  one  hundred  by 
thirty  feet.  At  the  north  end  there  is  a  most  mag- 
nificent pulpit,  in  the  Episcopal  church  style,  that 
man  has'  ever  seen.  It  seems  that  it  is,  and  should 
be,  called  the  "Holy  of  Holies."  It  is  completed 
with  the  most  beautiful  drapery  of  alabaster  sterites 
of  all  colors,  varying  from  white  to  pink-red,  over- 
hanging the  beholder.  Immediately  under  the 
pulpit  there  is  a  beautiful  lake  of  water,  extending 


ALABASTER  CAVE.  79 

to  an  unknown  distance.  We  thought  this  all,  but, 
to  our  great  admiration,  on  arriving  at  the  centre 
of  the  first  room,  we  saw  an  entrance  to  an  inner 
chamber,  still  more  splendid;  two  hundred  by  one 
hundred  feet,  with  the  most  beautiful  alabaster 
overhanging  in  every  possible  shape  of  drapery. 
Here  stands  magnitude,  giving  the  instant  impres- 
sion of  a  power  above  man  ;  grandeur  that  defies 
decay  ;  antiquity  that  tells  of  ages  unnumbered; 
beauty  that  the  touch  of  time  makes  more  beautiful; 
use  exhaustless  for  the  service  of  men;  strength 
imperishable  as  the  globe,  the  monument  of  eter- 
nity— the  truest  earthly  emblem  of  that  everlasting 
and  unchangeable,  irresistible  Majesty,  by  whom, 
and  for  whom,  all  things  were  made." 

As  soon  as  the  news  spread,  hundreds  of  people 
flocked  to  see  the  newly  discovered  wonder,  from 
all  the  surrounding  mining  settlements,  so  that 
within  the  first  six  days,  it  was  visited  by  upwards 
of  four  hundred  persons,  many  of  whom,  we  regret 
to  say,  possessed  a  larger  organ  of  acquisitiveness 
than  of  veneration,  and  laid  vandal  hands  on  some 
of  the  moFt  beautiful  portions  within  reach,  near  the 
entrance.  Upon  this,  the  proprietor  closed  it  until 
arrangements  could  be  made  for  its  protection  and 
systematic  illumination;  the  better' to  see  and  not 
to  touch  the  specimens. 

At  this  time  Messrs.  Smith  &  Hatterman  leased 
the  cave  and  immediately  began  to  prepare  it  for 


8o  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

the  reception  of  tlie  public  by  building  barricades, 
platforms,  etc. ,  and  placing  a  large  number  of  lamps 
at  favorable  points,  for  tlie  better  illumination  and 
inspection  of  the  different  chambers. 

At  the  time  of  its  discovery,  in  the  spring,  consid- 
erable water  was  standing  in  some  of  the  deepest 
of  the  cavities,  but  it  presently  began  to  recede  at 
the  rate  of  nearly  six  inches  a  day,  and  continued 
to  do  so,  until,  in  a  few  weeks,  it  had  entirely  dis- 
appeared, leaving  the  cave  perfectly  dry.  This 
afforded  opportunity  for  further  exploration,  upon 
which  it  was  found  that  a  more  convenient  entrance 
coulcl  be  made,  with  but  little  labor,  from  an  unim- 
poi-tant  room  within  a  few  feet  of  the  road.  This 
was  accordingly  done,  and  the  new  opening,  in  ad- 
dition to  its  increased. convenience,  allows  the  free 
circulation  of  pure  air. 

Having  thus  given  a  historical  sketch  of  its  discov- 
ery, with  other  matters  connected  with  its  preserva- 
tion and  management,  we  shall  now  endeavor  to 
take  the  reader  with  us,  at  least  in  imagination, 
while  attempting  a  detailed  description  of  its  inte- 
rior. 

Upon  approaching  the  cave  from  the  roadside, 
we  descend  three  or  four  steps  to  a  board  floor. 
Here  is  a  door  which  is  always  carefully  locked  when 
no  visitors  are  within.  Passing  on  we  enter  a  cham- 
ber about  twenty-five  feet  long  by  seventeen  feet 
wide  and  from  five  to  twelve  and  a  half  feet  in 
height. 


ALABASTER  CAVE. 


Though  very  plain  and  comparatively  unattrac- 
tive at  both  roof  and 'sides,  it  is  yet  quite  curious, 
especially  to  visitors  unaccustomed  to  caves.  Here 
is  also  a  desk,  upon  which  lies  a  book  inscribed, 
*' Coral  Cave  Register. "  This  book  was  presented 
by  some  gentlemen  of  San  Francisco,  who  thought 
that  the  name  '*  Coral  Cave"  would  be  more  appro- 
priate. The  impression  produced  upon  our  mind 
upon  the  first  walk  through  it,  was  that  ' '  Alabaster 
Cave"  would  be  equally  as  good  a  name,  but,  upon 
examining  it  more  thoroughly ,  we  afterwards  thought, 
that  as  a  great  proportion  of  the  ornaments  at  the 
roots  of  the  stalactites  look  like  beautifully  frozen 
mosses,  or  very  fine  coral,  and  the  long  icicle-look- 
ing pendants  being  more  like  alabaster,  the  name. 
Coral  Cave,  was  to  be  preferred.  But  as  Mr.  Gwinn 
had  given  the  name  ' '  Alabaster"  to  the  works 
themselves,  on  account  of  the  purity  and  whiteness 
of  the  limestone  there  found,  even  before  the  dis- 
covery of  the  cave,  we  cheerfully  acquiesce  in  the 
name  originally  given. 

The  register  was  opened  April  twenty-fourth, 
1860,  and  upon  our  visit,  September  thirtieth  of 
the  same  year,  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and 
twenty-one  names  had  been  registered.  Some  three 
or  four  thousand  persons  had  visited  it  before  the 
register  was  provided,  many  declined  entering  their 
names  after  it  was  furnished,  and  many  others  vis- 
ited it  after  the  date  of  our  visit,  so  that  it  is  prob- 


82  BANCROFT'S  tOURIST' S  GUIDE. 

able  that  the  number  of  persons  who  entered  this 
cave  during  the  year  of  its  discovery  must  have  been 
nearly  or  quite  three  thousand  five  hundred. 

Advancing  beyond  the  vestibule,  or  register  room, 
along  another  passage  or  room,  our  e^'es  rest  on 
several  notices,  such  as,  "  Please  not  touch  the 
specimens."  "  No  smoking  allowed,"  "  Hands  and 
feet  off,"  with  feel  scratched  out,  amputation  of 
those  members  not  intended! 

The  low,  shelving,  rocky  wall  upon  the  left  and 
near  the  end  of  the  passage  are  covered  with  coral- 
like excrescences,  resembling  bunches  of  coarse 
rock-moss.     This  brings  us  to  the  entrance  of  the 

Dungeon  of  Enchantment. 

Before  us  is  a  broad,  oddly-shaped  and  low-roofed 
chamber,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long, 
by  seventy  in  width,  and  from  four  to  twenty  feet 
high. 

Bright  coral-like  stalactites  hang  down  in  irreg- 
ular rows  and  in  almost  every  variety  of  shape  and 
shade,  from  milk-white  to  cream  color;  forming  a 
most  agreeable  contrast  with  the  dark  arches  and 
the  frowning  buttresses  on  either  hand,  while  low- 
browed ridges,  some  almost  black,  others  of  a  red- 
dish-brown, stretch  from  either  side,  the  space 
between  which  is  ornamented  with  a  peculiar  kind 
of  coloring  which  nearly  resembles  a  grotesque 
species  of  graining. 


ALABASTER  CAVE.  83 


Descending  toward  the  left,  we  approach  one  of 
the  most  singularly  beautiful  groups  of  stalactites  in 
this  apartment.  Some  of  these  are  fine  pendants, 
hardly  larger  than  pipestems,  from  two  to  five  feet 
long,  and  hollow  from  end  to  end.  When  the  cave 
was  first  discovered  there  were  four  or  five  of  these 
pendants  over  eight  feet  long,  but  the  early  admit- 
ted vandals  ruthlessly  destroyed,  or  selfishly  car- 
ried them  off.  Others  resemble  the  ears  of  white 
elephants,  or,  rather,  the  white  elephant  of  Siam, 
while  others  still  present  the  appearance  of  long 
and  slender  cones,  inverted. 

Examining  this  and  other  groups  more  closely, 
we  discover  at  their  bases  coral-like  excrescences  of 
great  beauty;  here,  like  petrified  moss,  brilliant, 
and  almost  transparent ;  there,  a  pretty  fungus, 
tipped  and  spangled  with  diamonds;  yonder,  mini- 
ature pine  trees,  which,  with  a  most  obliging  dispo- 
sition to  accommodate  themselves  to  circumstances, 
grow  bottom  up.  In  other  places  appear  fleeces  of 
the  finest  merino  or  silky  floss. 

Leaving  these,  and  turning  to  the  right,  we  can 
ascend  a  ladder  into  the  loftiest  part  of  this  cham- 
ber. Here  new  combinations  of  beauty  surprise 
and  delight  us.  Thence  passing  on,  we  come  to  a 
large  stalagmite,  whose  form  and  size  suggest  a 
tying  post  for  horses.  This  has  been  dignified,  or 
mystified,  anything  but  beautified,  by  different 
names,  more  or  less  appropriate.     One  is  "  Lot's 


84  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Wife."  If  the  woman  was  no  liiglier  than  the  stag- 
lamite,  she  must  have  been  a  dwarf,  for  the  top  of 
the  post  is  but  four  feet  and  a  quarter  above  its 
bottom,  while  its  diameter  at  the  bottom  is  hardly 
one  foot.  Its  two  other  names,  "  Hercules'  Club," 
and  "  Brobdignag's  Forefinger,"  are  more  appro- 
priate, though  the  latter  would  suggest  an  "  exag- 
geration," as  Mrs.  Partington  would  have  it. 

Continuing  on,  we  pass  over  a  gently  rising  floor 
resembling  solidified  snow,  until  we  approach  the 
verge  of,  and  look  down  into,  an  immense  abyss, 
surmounted  by  a  cavernous  roof.  Icicle  and  coral 
formations  depend  from  the  roof ,  and  a  rude  draj)ery 
of  jet  covers  the  sides.  Here  is  suspended  a  singu- 
lar petrifaction  resembling  a  human  heart,  which 
which  looks  as  if  it  might  have  belonged  to  one  of 
the  primitive  Titans,  or  come  from  the  chest  of  that 
Miltonian  monster,  whose  spear-shaft  was  like  a 
Norway  pine. 

On  one  side  of  this  is  an  elevated  and  nearly  level 
natui'al  floor,  upon  which  a  table  and  seats  have 
been  temporarily  erected  for  the  convenience  of 
choristers,  choirs  or  singing  societies,  and  even  for 
the  accommodation  of  public  worship,  should  any 
desire  to  witness  or  participate  in  it  in  this  most 
beautiful  of  God's  natural  temples.  The  lover  of 
sacred  music  would  be  delighted  beyond  measure 
to  hear  these  "  vaulted  hills"  resound  the  symj)ho- 
nies  of  Mozart,  Haydn  or  Mendelssohn.     Scores  of 


# 


ALABASTER  CAVE.  85 

these  pendent  harps  would  vibrate  in  unison,  or 
echo  them  in  delicious  harmonies  from  chamber  to 
chamber,  or  bear  them  from  roof  to  wall  in  dimin- 
ishing reverberations  even  to  the  most  remote  of 
these  rock-formed  corridors. 

We  may  not  linger  here  too  long,  so  passing 
hence,  we  enter  other  and  smaller  chambers,  along 
whose  roofs  we  trace  formations  that  resemble 
streams  of  water  suddenly- arrested  in  their  flow  and 
turned  to  ice.  In  another,  a  peculiarly  shajoed  pet- 
rifaction presents  a  perfectly  formed  beet  from  one 
point  of  view,  while  from  another  it  resembles  a 
small  elephant's  head.  Not  far  hence,  a  bell-shaped 
hollow,  a  beautiful  combination  of  grotto  and  ar- 
cade, has  received  the  name  of  ''  Julia's  Bower." 

Once  more  advancing,  a  narrow^  low-roofed  pas- 
sage brings  us  into  the  most  beautiful  chamber  of 
all,  the 

Crystal  Cliapel. 

No  language  can  suitably  convey,  nor  any  com- 
parisons worthily  suggest,  the  combined  beauty  and 
magnificence  of  this  wonderful  spot.  ' '  From  the 
beginning,"  says  Hutchings,  "  we  have  felt  that  we 
were  almost  presumptuous  in  attempting  to  portray 
these  wonderful  scenes,  but,  in  hope  of  inducing 
others  to  see,  with  their  natural  eyes,  the  sights 
that  we  have  seen,  and  enjoy  the  pleasure  that  we 
have  enjoyed,  we  entered  upon  the  task,  even 
though  inadequately,  of  giving  an  outline — nothing 


86  BAXCROFT\S    TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

more.  Here,  however,  we  confess  ourselves  entirely 
at  a  loss. 

''The  sublime  grandeur  of  this  imposing  sight  fills 
the  soul  with  astonishment  that  swells  up  from 
within  as  though  its  purpose  was  to  make  the  be- 
holder speechless,  the  language  of  silence  being  the 
most  fitting  and  impressive  when  puny  man  treads 
the  great  halls  of  nature,  the  more  surely  to  lead 
him,  humbly,  from  these  to  the  untold  gloiy  of  the 
Infinite  One  who  devised  the  laws,  and  superin- 
tended the  processes  that  brought  such  wonders  into 
being. 

"  After  the  mind  seems  prepared  to  examine  this 
gorgeous  spectacle  somewhat  in  detail,  we  look 
upon  the  ceiling,  if  we  may  so  speak,  which  is  en- 
iirely  covered  with  myiiads  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
stone  icicles,  long,  large  and  brilliant ;  between 
these  are  squares  or  panels,  the  mullions  and  bars  of 
which  seem  to  be  formed  of  diamonds;  while  the 
panels  themselves  resemble  the  frosting  upon  win- 
dows in  the  very  depth  of  winter;  and  even  those 
are  of  many  colors,  that  most  prevailing  being  of  a 
light  pinkish-cream.  Moss,  coral,  floss,  wool,  trees, 
and  many  other  forms,  adorn  the  interstices  between 
the  larger  of  the  stalactites.  At  the  further  end  is 
one  vast  mass  of  rock,  resembling  congealed  water, 
apparently  formed  into  many  folds  and  hillocks ;  in 
many  instances  connected  by  pillars  with  the  roof 
above.  Deep  down  and  underneath  this  is  the  en- 
trance by  which  we  reached  the  chamber. 


ALABASTER  CAVE.  87 

"At  our  right  stands  a  large  staglamite,  dome- 
shaped  at  the  top,  and  covered  with  beautifully 
undulating  and  wavy  folds.  Every  imaginable 
gracefulness  possible  to  the  most  curiously  arranged 
drapery,  is  here  visible,  '  carved  in  alabaster'  by  the 
Great  Architect  of  the  universe.  This  is  named 
'The  Pulpit.' 

"  In  order  to  examine  this  object  with  more  mi- 
nuteness, a  temporary  platform  has  been  erected, 
which,  although  detractive  of  the  general  effect,  in 
our  opinion,  affords  a  nearer  and  better  view  of  all 
these  remarkable  objects  in  detail. 

"  This  spectacle,  as  well  as  the  others,  being  bril- 
liantly illuminated,  the  scene  is  very  imposing,  and 
reminds  one  of  those  highly-wrought  pictures  of 
the  imagination,  painted  in  such  charming  language , 
and  with  such  good  effect  in  such  works  as  the 
*  Arabian  Nights.' 

"  Other  apartments  known  as  the  '  Picture  Gal- 
lery,' etc.,  might  well" detain  us  longer,  but,  as  in 
many  of  their  most  important  particulars,  they  bear 
a  striking  resemblance  to  those  already  described, 
we  leave  them  for  the  tourist  to  examine  for  him- 
self." If  what  we  have  said  excites  the  desire  of 
any  tourist  to  visit  this  new  combination  of  wonder 
and  beaut}^,  we  are  quite  sure  he  will  agree  with  us 
that  the  words  of  man  utterly  fail  to  adequately  pic- 
ture forth  the  works  of  God,  and  will  ever  after  de- 
light his  soul  with  the  life-long  memory  of  his  charm- 
ing visit  to  the  wonderful  Alabaster  Cave. 


Tourist's  Complete  Guide 


San  Francisco,  Suburbs  and  Vicinity; 

With  Special  Trips  and  Short  Excursions  in  and 

ABOUT   THE  CiTY. 


I.     CITY  PROPER. 

Sketch  op  the  City — Historical,  Topographical,  General 
Plan 95-107 

Appboaches  to  the  City — From  the  east,  by  boat;  from 
the  south,  by  rail;  from  the  ocean,  by  steamship,      107-113 

Conveyances — Hacks,  Coaches,  Cars,  Porters,  Legal  Eates, 
Caution,  Baggage  and  Package  Express,  -        -        113-116 

Hotels — Grand,  Occidental,  Cosmopolitan,  Lick  House, 
Brooklyn,  Euss  House,  American  Exchange,  Morton 
House,  International,  Hotel  Gailhard,  What  Cheer, 
(males  only),      -        -        -  .      -        -        -        -        116-12] 

Lodging  Houses — Nucleus,  Clarendon,       -        -        -        121 

Eestaueants — Saulman's,  Swain's,  Job's,  Martin's,  Ler- 
mitte's, -        .        121-122 

Baths — Fresh,  Salt,  Turkish,  Eussian,  Eoman,  Steam  and 
Vapor, 122 

Places  of  Amusement — California,  Metropolitan,  Alham- 
bra,  Maguire's,  and  Chinese  Theatres;  Museums,  Melo- 
deons.  Dance  Halls,  and  Beer  Cellars,       -        -         122-125 

Halls — Piatt's,  Union,  Pacific,  Mercantile  Library,  Me- 
chanic's Institute,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Mozart,  Dashaway,     125-126 

Billiards,  Bowling  Saloons  and  Shooting  Galleries,    127-128 


92  BANCROFT'S  TOURISTS  GUIDE. 


Gymnasiums — 01ymf)ic  Club,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  German  Turn 
Verein,  Skating  Kinks,  Base  Ball  Ground,         -        128-130 

Gaedens— Woodward's,  City,        -        -        .        -        130-140 

Menageeies  —  Woodward's  Zoological  Grounds,  North 
Beach, 140 

Squares  and  Paeks — Plaza,  (Portsmouth  Square).  Wash- 
ington Square,  South  Park, 141 

Peomenades  -Montgomery  Street,  Kearny  Street,  Califor- 
nia Street.     Best  Time,     -----        141-144 

Deives — Cliff  House  Eoad,  Ocean  House  Road,  Bay  View, 
New  Ocean  Koad,  Best  Time,     -        -        -        -  *     145-148 

LiBEABiES  AND  Eeading  Eooms — Mercantile,  Mechanic's 
Institute,  Odd  Fellow's,  Pioneers,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  What 
Cheer,  Woodward's  Gardens, 148 

Public  Buildings — Federal:  Post  Office,  Custom  House, 
Old  Mint,  New  Mint,  Marine  Hospital.  City  and  County: 
Old  City  Hall,  New  City  Hall,  Jail,  Almshouse,  Indus- 
trial School,  Engine  Houses,  Engines.  Corporation  and 
Society  Buildings:  Pioneer's,  Merchant's  Exchange,  Bank 
of  California,  Mercantile  Library  Building,  Mechanic's 
Institute,  Masonic  Temple,  Odd  Fellow's  Hall,  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
Building,  Mechanics'   PaviHon,         -        -        -        148-157 

Business  Buildings  and  Blocks— Alta  California  Building, 
Bancroft's,  Donohoe,  Kelly  &  Co.,  Hai-jDending's  Block, 
Murphy,  Grant  &  Co.,  Tobin,  Dixon  &  Davisson,  Tread- 
well's,  Tucker's,  Wells,  Fargo  &  C.'s  Building,  White 
House,        .        -        - 157-1^9 

Manufactoeies — Kimball  Car  and  Carriage  Factory,  Paci- 
fic Eolliiig  Mills,  Mission  Woolen  Mills,  Foundi-ies  and 
Iron  Works,  Locomotives,  Boilers,  Mining  Machinery, 
Shot  Tower  and  Lead  Works,  Sugar  Befinery,  Glass 
Works,  Ship  Yards,    ------        159-161 

Chubches  —  Baptist,  Congregational,  Ejiiscopal,  Jewish, 
Methodist,  Presbyterian,  Roman  Catholic,  Swedcn- 
borgian.  Unitarian,  Chinese  Mission  House,  Mariner's 
Church,  Old  Mission  Chui-ch,     -        -        -        -        161-167 

Hospitals  and  Asylums — City  and  County,  French,  Ger- 
man, Protestant  Oiphan,  Roman  Catholic  Orphan,  167-169 

Colleges — California  Business  University,  City  College, 
St.  Ignatius',  St.  Mary's,  Toland  Medical,     .    -        169-170 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  ^VICINITY.  93 


School  Buildings — Denman,  Girl's  High,  Lincoln,  Val- 
encia Street, -        -        171-172 

Printing,  Lithographing,  Binding,  and  Blank  Book  Mann- 
factiiring  Establishment, 172-173 

PRIVATE  Kesidences  —  Davis',  Eldridges,  Laidley's,  La- 
tham's, Bancroft's,  Otis',  Parrott's,  Tallant's,  Taylor's, 
Tobin's, -        -        -        174 

Points  of  Obseevation  —  Telegraph  Hill,  Ktissian  Hill, 
Clay  Street  Hill,  California  Street  Hill,  Kiucon  Hill, 
Lone  Mountain,  Twin  Peaks,  Bernal  Heights,  U.  S. 
Observatory.     Views  from  each,         _        -        _        174-184 

Plow  TO  Get  About — Horse  Car  Lines,  Eoutes,  Distances, 
Times,  Fares,  Buggies,  Carriages,  Coaches  and  Saddle 
Horses;  qualities  of,  and  charges  for.  Hacks,  with  rates 
of  hire, 184-188 


II.     SUBUKBS  AND  VICINITY. 

Commencing  at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  thence  southward 
along  or  near  the  water  front,  continuing  around  the  en- 
tire city  and  returning  to  the  point  of  starting.  Also, 
mentioning  more  distant  points,  visible  to  the  spectator 
looking  beyond  the  suburbs. 

LuMBEE  Yaeds  ;  Wharves  and  Merchant  Fleet;  California 
and  Oregon  S.  S.  Co.'s  Wharves  and  Ships  ;  Black  Dia- 
mond Coal  Co.'s  Pier;  Kincon  Point;  U.  S.  Marine  Hos- 
pital ;  P.  M.  S.  S.  Co.'s  Piers,  Docks,  Sheds  and  Ships  ; 
Gas  Works  :  C.  P.  K.  E.  Co,'s  Freight  Pier,  Depot  and 
Boat ;  Mission  Bay;  Mission  Kock  ;  U.  S.  Ship  Anchor- 
age ;  Steamboat  Reserves  ;  Long  Bridge ;  Yacht  Club 
and  Boat-house,  with  Yachts  ;  Potrero  ;  Glass  Works ; 
Pacific  Rolling  Mill ;  Deep  Cut;  Islais  Creek  and  Bridge; 
Rope  Walk  ;  Italian  Fishing  Fleet  and  Flakes  ;  Celestial 
Ditto  ;  South  San  Francisco  ;  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum  ; 
Hunter's  Point ;  Dry  Dock ;  Bay  View  Race  Course  ; 
Visitacion  Point  and  Valley  ;  San  Bruno  Road ;  New 
Butchertown  ;  Ocean  House  Road  ;  Lake  Honda  ;  Alms- 
house ;  Small  Pox  Hospital ;  Ocean  House  Race  Track  ; 
Lake  Merced;  Ocean  House;  Pacific  Beach;  Seal  Rocks; 
Cliff  House  ;  Farallones  ;  Point  Lobos ;  Signal  Station  ; 


94  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


Helmet  Rock;  Fort  Point ;  Fort ;  Light-House  ;  Golden 
Gate  ;  Lime  Point ;  Point  Bonita  ;  Mountain  Lake  ; 
Lobos  Creek  :  Presidio  ;  Barracks  ;  Parade  Ground  ; 
Black  Point  ;  Pacific  Woolen  Mills  ;  North  Beach  ;  An- 
gel Island  ;  Alcatraz  ;  North  Point ;  Sea  Wall ;  Ferries, 

188-196 


III.     HOW  TO  SEE  THE  CITY. 

Under  this  head  we  suggest : 

Morning,  or  half-day  excursions,  in  and  about  the  city  and 

its  suburbs. 

I.      IN  AND  ABOUT  THE  CITY. 

1.  Montgomery  Street,  Telegraph  Hill,  North  Beach, 
Washington  Square,  The  Plaza,  City  Hall,  Kearny 
street, 197 

2.  Chinese  Quarter, 197 

3.  Third  street,  South  Park,  Long  Bridge,  Potrero,  South 
San  Francisco,  Dry  Dock,  -        -        -        -        _        201 

4.  Water  Front,  (south),  Stewart  street,  P.  M.  S.  S.  Co.'s 
Docks  and  Mammoth  Steamships,  Foundries,  Factories, 
Shot  Tower, -        -        202 

5.  Water  Fi'ont,  (north),  Sea  Wall,  North  Point,  Ware- 
houses and  Clippers,  Iron  Ships,  Bay  and  Eiver  Steam- 
boats and  Docks,       .---.--        202 

6.  Southwestern  Suburbs,  Mission  street,  Woodward's 
Gardens,  Old  Mission  Church,  Jewish  Cemeteries, 
Woolen  MiUs,  Howard  street, 202 

7.  Western  Suburbs  and  Beyond  Bush  street.  Laurel  Hill, 
Lone  Mountain  Cemeteries,  Cliff  House  Eoad,  Race 
Track,  Cliflf  House,  Seal  rocks.  Pacific  Beach,  Ocean 
House,  Road  Track,  Lake  Honda,  New  Ocean  Road,       203 

8.  Northwestern  Suburbs  and  Beyond:  Russian  Hill, 
Spring  Yalley,  Fort  Point,  Fortress,  Lighthouse,  Golden 
Gate,  Presidio,  Black  Point, 203 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Historical. 


The  site  of  what  is  now  tlie  city  of  San  Francis- 
co was  first  permanently  occupied  by  white  men, 
September  17,  1776.  The  same  year  witnessed  the 
entrenchment  of  a  garrison  and  the  establishment 
of  a  Mission. 

San  Francisco  owes  its  origin  to  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries and  Spanish  soldiers.  Father  Junipero 
Serra  led  the  missionaries — and  virtually  command- 
ed the  soldiers.  The  name  San  Francisco  was 
given  in  honor  of  Saint  Francis  of  Asisis,  a  city 
of  Italy,  the  founder  of  the  order  of  Franciscans 
to  which  Father  Junipero  belonged.  The  presidio, 
garrison  or  fort,  was  founded  first,  Sept.  17,  and 
the  mission  about  three  weeks  later,  Oct.  9th.  The 
site  first  chosen  was  near  a  small  lagoon  back  of, 
that  is,  west  of,  what  is  now  called  Russian  Hill, 
but  the  prevailing  winds  proved  so  high  and  bitter 
as  to  colnpel  its  early  removal  to  the  more  shelter- 
ed spot,  over  a  mile  south,  under  the  lee  of  high 
hills,  and  near  the  present  Mission  Creek.     Here, 


96  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

at  the  head,  of  what  is  now  Center  or  Sixteenth 
Street,  the  old  church  stni  stands. 

For  nearly  sixty  years  the  mission  stood,  the  nu- 
cleus of  a  little  Tillage  of  rude  adobe  houses,  ten- 
anted by  a  fluctuating  poj^ulation  of  Indians, 
Mexicans  and  Spanish — and  the  center  of  a  mili- 
tary and  religious  authority,  which  upon  more  than 
one  occasion  made  itself  felt  and  feared  for  leagTies 
around.  The  population  rarely  rose  above  four 
hundi'ed  and  frequently  fell  to  less  than  a  hundred 
and  fifty. 

In  1835,  Capt.  W.  A.  Kichardson  put  up  the  first 
pioneer  dwelling,  with  rude  wooden  walls  and  sail- 
cloth roof.  On  the  fourth  of  July  of  the  next  year, 
1836,  Jacob  P.  Leese  finished  the  first  frame  house. 
This  house  stood  where  the  St.  Francis  Hotel  now 
stands,  —  on  the  southwest  corner  of  Clay  and 
Dupont  streets,  a  single  block  west  of  the  pres- 
ent City  Hall.  Leese  had  his  store  on  the  beach, 
which  was  where  Montgomery  and  Commercial 
streets  now  intersect.  N.early  seven  soUd  blocks 
of  made-land  now  stretch  between  where  that  old 
beach  lay  and  the  present  water  front.  Other 
houses  soon  rose  near  that  of  Leese,  and  presently 
the  villagers  saw  their  little  settlement  fast 
approaching  the  dignity  of  a  new  town,  and 
cast  about  to  find  a  name.  Nature  caused  it  to 
spring  out  of  the  ground  for  them  in  the  form  of 
a  species  of  aromatic  mint,  which,  surroundiag  their 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITV.  97 

dwellings,  perfuming  the  morning  air  and  supply- 
ing frequent  and  varied  medicinal  needs,  had 
proved  indeed,  as  the  Spaniards  called  it,  "  Yerba 
Buena,"  the  Good  Herb.  So  the  herb  named  the 
town,  and  the  name  ^^  stuck,"  as  the  Calif ornians 
say,  for  nearly  a  dozen  years.  During  these  years 
the  houses  grew  in  number,  until  1847,  when  the 
town  contained  seventy-nine  buildings, — thirty-one 
frame,  twenty-six  adobe,  and  the  rest  shanties — and 
these  houses  sheltered  three  hundred  souls,  or,  at 
least,  that  number  of  bodies.  On  the  30th  of  Jan- 
uary of  that  year,  these  three  hundred  dropped  the 
old  name  Yerba  Buena,  and  adopted  the  older  one, 
which  had  belonged  to  the  neighboring  mission  for 
nearly  fourscore  years.  Thus  the  town  also  became 
San  Francisco,  and  has  ever  since  so  remained. 
The  first  steamboat  appeared  in  the  bay,  Novem- 
ber 15th  of  the  same  year.  In  March,  1848,  the 
houses  had  grown  to  two  hundred,  and  the  popula- 
tion to  eight  hundred  and  fifty.  On  the  third  of 
the  next  month,  the  first. public  school  began. 

New  Year's  Day,  '49,  the  new  city  claimed  a  pop- 
ulation of  two  thousand.  Three  days  later  the  two 
previously  published  weekly  papers  merged  into  the 
Alta  California,  the  earliest  established  of  all  news- 
papers now  existing  in  the  State. 

The  early  miners  were  making  from  twenty  to 
thirty  dollars  a  day,  getting  "  bags"  of  dust  and 
"piles"  of  nuggets,  and  rushing  down  to  "Frisco" 


98  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

to  gamble  it  away.  These  were  the  *'  flush  times" 
of  the  new  city.  Fresh  eggs  cost  from  seventy-five 
cents  to  one  dollar  apiece.  For  a  beefsteak  and  a 
cup  of  coffee  for  breakfast  one  had  to  pay  a  dollar 
and  a  half,  and  a  dinner  cost  him  from  two  to  ten 
or  even  twenty  dollars,  according  to  apjDctite  and 
drinketite.  Rough  labor  brought  the  old  Congres- 
sional pay  of  eight  dollars  a  day;  di'aymen  earned 
twenty  dollars  a  day;  and  family  "help"  could 
hardly  be  had  for  forty,  or  even  fifty,  dollars  a  week. 
The  great  mass  of  the  men  lived  in  tents.  Very  few 
women  had  come,  but  those  few  were  overwhelmed 
with  attention;  if  one  wished  to  cross  the  street  in 
the  rainy  season,  a  score  of  brawny  arms  would  fight 
for  the  privilege  of  gallantly  wading  through  the 
sea  of  mud  to  carry  her  across  the  unpaved  street. 

Great  fires  came,  foirr  of  them;  the  first  the  day 
before  Chistmas,  '49 — it  burned  over  a  million  dol- 
lars worth;  the  second,  May  4th,  '50 — it  destroyed 
three  millions  dollars  worth.  A  little  over  a  month 
later,  June  14th,  1850,  the  most  destmctive  fire  the 
city  ever  saw  left  it  poorer  by  four  millions  of  dol- 
lars; and  on  the  17th  of  the  next  September  the 
fourth  fire  consumed  another  half  million.  Nearly 
nine  million  dollars  worth  burned  in  less  than  nine 
months ! 

Business  thrived  immensely.  In  1852,  more  than 
seven  vessels  a  day  anived  at  or  departed  from  San 
Francisco.     Commerce  overdid  itself.     Long  piers 


SAAT  FRANCISCO  AND  VICINITY.  99 

ran  out  over  the  flats  where  now  solid  blocks  of 
loft}^  buildings  have  stood  for  half  a  score  of  years. 
Sometimes  storms  kept  back  the  clippers;  then 
prices  went  still  higher.  Between  March  and 
November,  flour  went  up  from  eight  to  forty  dol- 
lars a  barrel,  while  the  "  Alta  "  came  down  from  its 
usual  broad  and  sightly  page  to  the  size  of  a  pane 
of  window-glass,  fourteen  by  ten.  Villainy  flour- 
ished; drinking,  gambling,  robbery  and.  murder 
held  high  carnival;  the  law  did  little,  and  did  that 
little  shabbily  and  tardily;  so  the  people  woke  and 
resumed  their  original  legislative,  judicial,  and  es- 
pecially their  executive,  functions. 

In  '51  and  '52,  and  again  in  '56,  they  came  nobly 
to  the  front,  hung  the  worst  villains  who  defied  the 
common  law,  frightened  away  the  others,  restored 
order,  established  security  for  honest  men,  and  re- 
solved themselves  again  into  law-abiding  citizens. 
And  thus,  through  perils  of  fire,  social  convulsions, 
and  financial  fluctuation,  the  cosmopolitan  city  has 
swept  swiftly  on  until  to-day,  though  having  barely 
attained  her  majority,  she  stands  in  the  first  half- 
score  of  American  cities.  Every  year  she  leaves  a 
city  or  two  behind  in  her  steady  progress  toward  the 
throne  of  the  continent  which  she  will  surely  occupy 
before  the  present  century  has  fully  fled. 

Situation  and  Extent. 

In  extent,  population,  commerce,  wealth  and 
the  growth,  San  Francisco  of  to-day  is  not  only  the 


lOO  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

chief  city  of  California,  but  tlie  great  commercial 
metrojDolisof  the  whole  Pacific  slope.  It  is  both  a 
city  and  a  county;  the  county  occupies  the  extreme 
end  of  a  hilly  peninsula  stretching  north  to  the 
Golden  Gate,  between  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the 
west,  and  San  Francisco  bay  on  the  east. 

The  whole  peninsula  has  a  length  of  from  thirty- 
five  to  forty  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  miles.  The  average  width  of  the 
county  from  bay  to  ocean  is  four  and  one  half  miles, 
and  its  extreme  length,  from  the  Golden  Gate  on 
the  north,  to  the  San  Mateo  County  line  on  the  south, 
is  six  miles  and  a  half.  Its  boundary  line  being  the 
natural  one  of  a  coast  or  shore  on  the  west,  north 
and  east,  is  more  or  less  irregular;  on  the  south  it 
is  straight.  Its  entire  area  is^26,681  acres,  including 
the  Presidio  reservation  of  1,500  acres,  which  belongs 
to  the  general  government. 

The  county  also  includes  the  Farallon  Islands, 
lying  nearly  thirty  miles  west  in  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
with  the  islands  of  Alcatraz  and  Yerba  Buena,  or 
Goat  Island,  in  San  Francisco  bay. 

The  city  proper  occupies  the  northeast  corner  of 
the  county.  Its  limits  extend  about  two  miles  and 
a  half  from  east  to  west,'  by  three  and  a  half  from 
north  to  south,  thus  including  between  one  fifth  and 
one  sixth  the  area  of  the  county. 

The  natural  surface  was  very  uneven  and  the  soil 
equally  varied — sand  beach,  salt  marsh,  mud  flats, 


SAN  FRANCISCO  aM  yidlMll'Y.    ''  '     '  idi 

low  plains,  narrow  ravines,  small  and  shallow  val- 
leys, elevated  benches  or  plateaux,  sandy  knolls 
and  dunes,  and  stretches  of  the  close,  adobe  soil, 
made  up  its  original  surface;  while  rocky  bluffg 
fortified  its  shore  line,  and  extensive  ledges  under- 
laid its  hills  or  cropped  out  from  their  sides,  or 
crowned  their  tops.  These  hills  varied  in  height 
from  two  hundred  and  sixty  to  four  hundred  and 
ten  feet,  while  west  and  south  of  the  city  limits 
they  rose  still  higher.  One  or  two  small  lagoons  lay 
sluggishly  about,  and  as  many. small  streams  found 
their  way  thence  to  the  bay. 

The  original  founders  of  the  city,  as  is  usual  in 
similar  cases,  seemed  never  to  suspect  that  they 
were  moulding  the  beginnings  of  a  grand  metropolis. 
Hence  they  laid  out  what  little  they  did  project  with 
the  least  possible  regard  to  present  symmetry,  or 
the  probable  demands  of  future  growth.  The 
natural  inequalities  of  surface,  the  grade  and  width 
of  streets  which  must  become  necessary  to  a  large 
city,  reservations  for  public  buildings,  promenades, 
gardens,  parks,  etc.,  with  the  sanitary  necessity  of 
thorough  drainage,  were  matters  of  which  they  seem 
to  have  been  serenely  unconscious,  or,  worse  still, 
sublimely  indifferent.  And  many  of  their  immediate 
successors  in  authority  were  legitimate  descendants, 
or  humbly  imitative  followers. 

We  have  not  an  important  street  in  the  city  which 
conforms  its  course  to  the  cardinal  points  of  the 


162    '   '  'BAhrC^O'FT'S' TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

a 

compass,  and  but  one  main  avenue,  Market  street, 
which  begins  to  be  wide  enough.  As  Cronise  truth- 
fully says:  "  The  whole  town  stands  askew." 

We  now  proceed  to  ''orient"  the  tourist,  as 
Horace  Mann  used  to  say,  in  regard  to  such 
streets,  avenues,  thoroughfares,  cuts,  parks,  etc., 
as  mainly  constitute  the  highly  artificial,  though 
not  particularly  ornamental,  topography  of  our 
little  occidental  village. 

General  Plan. 

Market  street  is  the  widest  and  the  longest,  start- 
ing at  the  water  front,  half  a  mile  east  of  the  old 
City  Hall,  and  slightly  ascending  through  eight  or 
nine  blocks,  it  runs  thence  southwesterly  on  a 
nearly  level  grade  beyond  the  city  limits.  Its  west- 
ern end  is  yet  unfinished.  A  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  water  it  cuts  through  a  moderately  high  and 
immoderately  rocky  hill,  beyond  which  it  stretches 
away  toward  the  unfenced  freedom  of  the  higher 
hills,  and  the  dead  level  of  the  western  beach 
beyond,  at  which  it  will  probably  condescend  ulti- 
mately to  stop.  Its  sui'face  presents  every  variety 
of  natural  conformation  ingeniously  varied  with 
artificial  distortion.  Plank,  nibble,  McAdam,  cob- 
ble, Nicolson,  gravel.  Stow  foundation,  gravel, 
adobe,  sand,  and  finally  undisguised  dirt,  offer  their 
pleasing  variety  to  the  exploring  eye.  From  two 
to  four  horse-railroad  tracks   diversify  its  surface 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  103 

with  their  restful  regularity,  while  the  steam  cars 
from  San  Jose  follow  their  locomotive  a  short  dis- 
tance up  its  western  end. 

Stately  blocks,  grand  hotels,  massive  stores,  lofty 
factories,  tumble-down  shanties,  unoccupied  lots 
and  vacant  sand-hills  form  its  picturesque  boundary 
on  either  hand.  When  the  high  summer  winds 
sweep  easterly  down  its  broad  avenue,  laden  with 
clouds  of  flying  sand  from  vacant  lots  along  its 
either  margin,  it  becomes  a  decidedly  open  question 
whether  the  lots  aforesaid  really  belong  in  the 
department  of  real  estate,  or  should,  properly  enter 
the  catalogue  of  "movable  property." 

"We  have  dwelt  thus  at  length  upon  this  street, 
not  only  on  account  of  its  central  position  and 
superior  dimensions,  but  because  it  is  a  representa- 
tive street.  Others  are  like  it  as  far  as  they  can  be. 
They  would  resemble  it  still  more  closely,  did 
length,  width  and  direction  permit.  It  is  fast  be- 
coming the  great  business  street  of  the  city,  and, 
spite  of  the  roughness  and  crudeness  necessarily 
attaching  to  all  the  streets  of  a  new  and  fast-grow- 
ing city,  it  unmistakably  possesses  all  the  requisites 
of  the  future  "Grand  Avenue"  of  the  Pacific 
metropolis. 

On  the  northeast  of  Market  street,  through  the 
older  portion  of  the  city,  the  streets  run  at  right 
angles  with  each  other,  though  neither  at  right  an- 
gles or  parallel  with  Market.  One  set  runs,  in  straight 
5 


I04  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

lines,  nearly  north  and  soutli.  The  other  set,  also 
straight,  crosses  the  former  at  right  angles,  that  is, 
running  nearly  east  and  west.  The  principal  of 
these  streets,  as  one  goes  from  the  bay  westerly,  back 
toward  the  hills,  and,  in  fact,  some  distance  up 
their  slopes,  are  Front,  Batter}^,  Sansome,  Mont- 
gomeiy,  Kearny,  Dupont,  Stockton,  Powell,  Mason, 
Taylor,  and  a  dozen  others,  of  which  those  nearer 
the  bay  are  gradually  growing  into  importance  as 
business  streets,  especially  along  the  more  level 
portions  of  their  southern  blocks,  near  where  they 
run  into  Market  street.  Beyond  these,  that  is,  west 
of  them,  the  streets  are  chiefly  occupied  by  dwell- 
ing houses,  among  which  are  many  expensive  resi- 
dences of  the  most  modern  construction  and  elegant 
design. 

Between  Front  street  and  the  bay  run  two  short- 
er streets,  Davis  and  Drumm,  along  which,  as.  well 
as  upon  the  northern  part  of  Front  street,  are  sev- 
eral of  the  principal  wharves,  piers,  docks  and 
steamboat  landings. 

At  right  angles  with  these  streets,  running  back 
at  an  acute  angle  from  Market  street,  and  at  a  right 
angle  with  the  water  front  as  well  as  the  streets  al- 
ready named,  are  Gearys  Post,  Sutter,  Bush,  Pine, 
California,  Sacramento,  Clay,  Washington,  Jack- 
son, Pacific,  Broadway,  with  a  dozen  or  more  others 
still  further  north,  and  a  score  or  so  south. 

Along  the  eastern  blocks  of  these  streets,  that  is, 
within  five  or  six  squares  of  the  water,  stand  many 


SAN  FRAACISCO  AND   VICINITY.  105 

of  the  leading  business  houses,  hotels,  newspaper 
offices,  etc. 

A  sufficient  variety  of  pavement  diversifies  the 
surface  of  all  these  streets — from  the  primitive, 
original  and  everlasting  cobble,  destroyer  of  quiet, 
destruction  to  wheels  and  death  on  horses,  to  the 
smooth-rolling  Nicolson  and  the  beautifully  lev^l 
Stow  foundation,  blessed  bane  of  all  the  above 
abominations,  and  not  a  specially  bad  thing  for  the 
contractors.  The  sidewalks  generally  have  a 
liberal  breadth.  They  are  commonly  covered 
with  plank,  asphaltum  or  brick,  and,  near  the  cor- 
ners and  in  front  of  the  numerous  rum-holes,  with 
gangs  of  bilks  or  crowds  of  loafers,  who  have  only, 
as  Sydney  Smith  once  said  of  a  certain  vestry  in 
London,  to  lay  their  heads  together  to  make  a  first- 
class  wooden  pavement. 

South  of  Market  street,  that  is,  in  the  newer  and 
more  rapidly  growing  portion  of  the  city,  the  streets 
were  laid  out  under  a  new  survey,  and,  of  course, 
have  an  angle  and  direction  of  their  own.  One  set 
runs  parallel  with  Market,  that  is,  nearly  southwest 
and  northeast.  Their  names,  in  receding  order 
from  Market,  are  Mission,  Howard,  Folsom,  Har- 
rison, Bryant,  Brannan,  etc.  These  streets  are 
generally  wider  than  those  of  the  older,  northern 
part.  Southeast  of  them  are  seven  or  eight  paral- 
lel streets,  gradually  growing  shorter  as  they  come 
nearer  the  Mission  Bay,  ending  in  South  street,  less 


io6  BAISrCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

than  a  block  and  a  half  long,  lying  along  tlie  water 
front.  The  lower  or  eastern  ends  of  nearly  all  these 
streets  run  down  to  piers  and  wharves,  upon  which 
are  the  leading  lumber  and  coal  yards  of  the  city, 
the  largest  hay  and  grain  bams  and  sheds,  and  the 
immense  docks  of  the  great  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company.  Nearly  two  miles  back  from  the  water 
front  all  these  streets  "swing  around  the  cu'cle" 
far  enough  to  bring  them  into  an  exactly  north  and 
south  line,  and  ci-eej^  southward  down  the  peninsu- 
la, a  block  or  two  farther  south  every  season. 

The  streets  running  at  right  angles  with  Market 
street,  beginning  at  the  water  front  and  reckoning 
back  southwesterly,  are  named  by  their  numbers. 
First,  Second,  etc.,  up  to  Thu'tieth,  and  even  be- 
yond. Between  First  street  and  the  present  water 
front,  some  six  or  seven  blocks  have  been  filled  in 
and  are  occupied  chiefly  by  gas  works,  lumber 
yards  and  large  manufactories.  The  new  streets 
thus  formed  are  named,  in  receding  order  from 
First  street,  Fremont,  Beale,  Main,  Spear,  Stuart 
and  East.  To  reduce  blocks  to  miles,  one  has  only 
to  know  that  in  the  older  part  of  the  city  the  blocks, 
reckoning  east  and  west,  number  twelve  to  the  mile, 
including  the  streets  between.  From  north  to  south 
they  are  shorter,  numbering  sixteen  to  the  mile. 
South  of  Market  street  the  blocks  are  about  one 
seventh  of  a  mile  long  from  east  to  west,  and  one 
ninth  of  a  mile  wide.     In  both  the  older  and  newer 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  107 

parts  of  the  city,  the  regular  standard  blocks  are 
frequently  subdivided  by  one,  and  sometimes  two, 
smaller  streets,  running  through  them  each  way. 
Near  the  city  front,  the  first  six  blocks,  reckoning 
back  from  the  water,  have  from  one  half  to  two 
thirds  the  standard  size.  Bearing  these  dimensions 
in  mind,  one  can  readily  reduce  blocks  to  miles, 
and  calculate  distance  and  time  accordingly. 

Approaches  to  the  City. 

From  only  one  direction  can  the  traveler  ap- 
proach the  city  by  land;  that  is,  by  coming  up 
from  the  south,  through  San  Jose  and  the  inter- 
vening places.  From  every  other  direction  one 
approaches  by  water.  Between  Sacramento  and  San 
Francisco  there  are  two  princixDal  routes  by -rail. 
The  first  brings  the  tourist  to  Yallejo,  sixty  miles, 
and  thence  twenty-three  miles  by  boat,  making  a 
total  of  eighty- three  miles,  over  the  shortest  and 
quickest  route.  Time,  four  hours  and  a  half,  fare, 
$3.00. 

Approaching  by  this  route,  he  comes  down  npon 
the  city  from  the  northeast.  On  the  left,  the  San 
Pablo,  Berkeley,  Oakland  and  Alameda  shores,  ris- 
ing gently  back  into  broad  plains,  whose  further 
edges  fringe  the  feet  of  the  back-lying  hills.  Be- 
yond the  hills.  Mount  Diablo.  On  the  larboard 
bow,  as  the  sailors  say,  that  is,  a  little  southwest, 
rises  Goat  Island,  or  Yerba  Buena,  three  hundred 


io8  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

and  forty  feet.  This  island  looks  *'veiy  like  a 
whale,"  and  in  outline  seems  a  Tery  monster  among 
leviathans  at  that. 

Dii-ectly  south  the  waters  of  the  bay  stretch  so 
far  that  one  can  seldom  discern  the  shore  line,  and 
may  easily  fancy  himself  looking  out  to  sea  in  that 
direction.  Further  round  to  the  right,  that  is,  more 
westerly,  he  may  catch  a  glim^Dse  of  Hunter's  Point 
with  the  chimney  and  engine  house  of  the  Diy 
Dock.  Nearer  lies  the  Potrero,  with  the  suburban 
city  fast  creeping  up  the  sides,  and  crowning  the 
summit  of  its  rocky  promontory.  From  the  beach, 
at  its  nearest  base,  stretch  out  the  piers  and  rise 
the  grimy  buildings  of  the  Pacific  Rolling  Mills. 
Still  nearer  you  see  the  south  end  of  the  long 
bridge,  stretching  southerly  across  Mission  Bay, 
and  connecting  the  Potrero  with  the  city.  In  a 
line  with  the  further  end  of  this,  bridge,  and  a  mile 
or  more  nearer,  we  have  the  piers  and  sheds  of  the 
Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company,  with  the  immense 
ships  of  theu'  China  line,  the  largest  wooden  vessels 
afloat.  The  steejD  slope  just  to  the  right  of  them, 
on  which  you  see  the  upper  stories  of  a  large  brick 
building,  is  Rincon  Hill,  and  the  building  is  the  U.  S. 
Marine  Hospital.  That  monument,  as  it  seems,  is 
the  Shot  Tower,  while  in  front  of,  around  and  beyond 
it,  you  see  the  usual  medley  of  ordinary  city  build- 
ings, here  and  there  rising  into  single  or  double 
church  spires,  broken  by  the  bulk  of  some  big  busi- 


SAIV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  109 

ness  block,  and  relieved  by  the  regular  lines  of  in- 
tersecting streets. 

Eight  of  Kincon  Hill,  where  the  city  fills  a  broad 
hollow,  you  are  looking  over  what  was  once  the 
*'  Happy  "Valley  "  of  early  times.  In  a  line  beyond 
it  lies  the  Mission,  which  you  cannot  now  discover, 
backed  by  the  ''  Twin  Peaks,"  and  the  high  hills 
which  form  the  back-bone  of  the  peninsula.  Still 
following  around,  the  larger  buildings  of  the  older 
city  meet  the  eye,  gradually  rising  up  the  southern 
slope.  Those  singular  minarets  or  mosque-like 
twin  towers  or  spires,  surmount  the  Jewish  Syna- 
gogue. Here  and  there  a  church  spire  shoots  above 
the  roofs,  but  one  sees  fewer  of  them  than  in  eastern 
cities  of  equal  size,  because  the  possibility  of  earth- 
quakes, and  the  certainty  of  high  winds,  restrain 
architects  and  builders  from  attempting  anything 
too  lofty  or  exposed.  Several  of  the  finest  churches 
in  the  city,  spread  out  on  the  earth  much  more  than 
they  rise  toward  heaven.  One  reason  may  be  that 
they  do  not  own  far  in  the  latter  direction. 

North  of  the  Synagogue  towers,  the  hill  still  rises 
through  three  blocks,  when  it  reaches  its  full  height 
in  California  street  hill.  Then  a  slight  depression 
in  the  hill-top  outline,  followed  by  another  rise  in- 
to the  Clay  street  and  "Washington  street  hill,  two 
blocks  north  and  three  blocks  west  of  the  former. 

The  higher  hill  still  further  north  but  nearer  the 
front,  is  the  famous  land-mark  and  signal-station, 


no  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Telegraph  Hill,  from  whose  top  the  long  familiar 
observatoiy  has  but  recently  disappeared;  pros- 
trated on  a  stormy  night  last  winter,  by  one  of  the 
giant  winds  whose  fuiy  it  had  so  long  defied. 

Beyond,  or  to  the  right  of  Telegraph  hill,  the 
city  falls  away  to  the  northwest,  and  the  bay  shore 
also  trends  in  that  direction.  Black  Point,  the 
Presidio,  and  finally  Fort  Point,  bring  us  to  the 
Golden  Gate. 

Unfolding  to  empire  its  way, 
Wide  opened  by  gold  and  by  fate, 

Swnng  by  tides  wliicli  no  nation  can  stay, 
Here  standeth  the  continent's  gate. 

Through  the  naiTow  Gate  one  has  a  single 
glimpse  of  the  grand  old  sea,  which  stretches  so 
peacefully  away  under  the  sunset.  For  northern 
gate-post  you  have  Lime  Point;  and  thence  the 
vision  rests  on  high  hills  packed  in  behind,  and 
gi'adually  lifting  the  gaze  to  Mount  Tamalpais,  be- 
yond whose  sharply-cut  summit,  nothing  of  note 
attracts  the  sight.  Between  us  and  Tamalpais,  four 
miles  nearer  and  half  a  mile  lower,  close  at  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  we  have  the  small  but  beautifully  situ- 
ated town  of  Saucelito,  with  its  sheltered  picnic 
grounds  and  tranquil  bay.  Beyond  the  Saucelito 
bay  you  can  almost  see  through  Raccoon  Strait, 
and  discover  that  the  higher  land  nearer  the  boat 
is  not  a  point,  but  an  island.  Its  name  is  Angel 
Island.     It  is  the  largest  and  most  valuable  island 


SAiV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY. 


in  the  bay.  The  Government  owns  it  and  occupies 
its  southwestern  side  with  barracks,  garrison  and 
parade  grounds.  Several  batteries  dot  the  shore 
at  diiferent  j)oints,  and  a  military  road  around  the 
island,  connects  them  with  the  garrison. 

This  other  small  island  of  solid  rock,  crowned 
with  a  heavy  fortress  and  girt  with  forts  and  bat- 
teries, is  Alcatraz,  the  Pacific  Gibraltar. 

Instead  of  coming  by  way  of  Vallejo,  the  passen- 
ger from  Sacramento  may  come  by  rail  through 
Stockton,  forty-eight  miles;  thence  by  rail  to  Oak- 
land, eighty-six  miles;  and  thence  by  boat  to  San 
Francisco,  four  miles;  making  a  total  distance  of 
one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles,  all  rail  except 
the  last  four.     Through  fare,  $2.50. 

By  this  route  you  approach  the  city  on  the  east, 
and  have  only  to  change  the  point  of  sight  from 
northeast  to  east,  and  remember  that  Goat  Island 
will  be  seen  close  by  on  the  right  hand,  that  is, 
north  of  the  boat,  to  make  the  description  of  the 
approach  from  Vallejo  almost  equally  accurate  and 
easily  adaptable  for  the  approach  from  Oakland, 
which  is  the  direction  from  which  the  great  major- 
ity approach. 

Those  who  may  prefer  can  have  their  choice  of  a 
third  way  from  Sacramento,  and  a  second  from 
Stockton;  that  is  by  steamer,  usually  leaving  each 
of  those  cities  at  noon,  and  due  in  San  Francisco  in 
eight  hours.     From  Sacramento  by  water  the  dis- 


112  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

tance  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  and  the 
fare,  $1.50  ;  from  Stockton,  one  hundred  and  twen- 
ty miles,  fare,  $1.50 ;  dinner  on  board,  $1.00; 
staterooms,  $2.00,  single  beiihs,  $1.00.  These 
boats  reach  San  Francisco  so  early  one  seldom 
needs  a  stateroom,  excej^t  in  case  of  illness,  or  a 
strong  desire  for  seclusion.  Both  lines  of  steamers 
land  at  the  same  pier,  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  from 
ten  to  twelve  blocks  from  the  leading  first-class  ho- 
tels. 

The  only  important  route  of  apj)roaching  San 
Francisco,  and  riding  into  the  city  by  land,  lies  on 
the  south,  coming  from  Gilroy,  San  Jose,  Santa 
Clara,  Redwood  City,  and '  intermediate  places,  in 
the  cars  of  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad.  Coming  in 
by  this  route,  one  traverses  the  fertile  plains  of  the 
Santa  Clara  Yalley,  and  skirts  the  foot-hills  l^^ing 
along  the  western  base  of  the  almost  mountains, 
which  form  the  divide  between  the  bay  slope  and 
the  ocean  slope  of  the  broad  peninsula.  Near  Red- 
wood City,  and  for  the  succeeding  fifteen  miles, 
the  track  runs  between  fresh  water  fields  on  the 
west  and  salt  water  marsh  upon  the  east.  From 
the  Twelve-Mile  Farm  in,  we  strike  nearer  the 
centre  of  the  constanth^  narrowing  peninsula,  and 
near  San  Miguel  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the 
broad  Pacific.  The  large  building  just  west  of  the 
track  is  the  Industrial  School,  our  California  House 
of  Reformation.     The  southern  suburbs  of  the  city, 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  113 

through  which  we  enter,  present  nothing  remarka- 
ble beyond  the  usual  medley  of  old  shanties,  broad 
vegetable  gardens,  pleasant,  home-like  cottages, 
and  here  and  there  the  more  pretentious  suburban 
residence,  increasing  in  number  as  we  come  nearer 
the  centre. 

We  come  in  by  Valencia  street,  and  reach  the 
station  upon  Market,  just  east  of  its  junction  with 
Valencia. 

Ocean  Approach. 

Besides  the  approaches  already  mentioned,  one 
may  come  in  from  Panama,  Mexico,  Oregon,  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  Australia^  Japan  or  China.  From 
whichever  he  may  come,  for  the  last  ten  miles  be- 
fore reaching  the  dock,  his  track  will  be  the  same. 
A  few  miles  west  of  Fort  Point,  all  these  various 
ocean  routes  converge  into  one,  enter  San  Francis- 
co Bay  by  the  Golden  Grate,  and  bear  away  south- 
ward until  they  intersect,  and  for  a  short  distance 
coincide  with,  the  approach  from  Vallejo,  already 
briefly  described. 

Conveyauces. 

Hacks. — Approaching  the  wharf  or  the  railroad 
station,  you  encounter  the  usual  jargon  of  hotel  and 
baggage  runners,  each  shouting  his  hotel,  hack  or 
coach,  as  if  strength  of  lungs  was  his  chief  stock  in 
trade.  It  is  but  simple  justice  to  San  Francisco 
hackmen,  however,  to  say  that  a  more  obliging. 


114  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

prompt,  and  courteous  set,  can  hardly  be  found 
in  any  American  city  of  equal  size.  That  travelers 
may  exactly  understand  for  themselves  the  law  • 
regulating  hacks  and  coaches,  we  quote  order  No. 
718,  of  the  Board  of  Supervisors  of  the  city  and 
county  of  San  Francisco  : 

Section  7.  ''For  a  hackney  carriage  drawn  by 
more  than  one  horse,  for  one  jjerson,  not  exceeding 
one  mile,  $1.50,  and  for  more  than  one  person,  not 
exceeding  one  mile,  $2.50 ;  and  for  each  additional 
mile,  for  each  passenger,  50  cents.  For  a  hackney 
caniage  drawn  by  one  horse,  for  one  person,  not 
exceeding  one  mile,  $1.00 ;  for  more  than  one  per- 
son, not  exceeding  one' mile,  $1.50;  for  each  i^as- 
senger,  for  each  additional  mile,  25  cents." 

Sec.  8.  "From  any  landing  of  any  steamboat,  to 
any  point  east  of  the  west  line  of  Larkin  street,  and 
north  of  the  south  line  of  Brannan  street,  and  east 
of  Third  street,  shall,  in  all  cases,  be  estimated  not 
to  exceed  one  mile. " 

In  forty-nine  cases  out  of  fifty,  no  newly-arrived 
gentleman  or  lady  will  have  any  personal  need  to 
know  the  law;  the  foregoing  is  written  mainly  for 
the  fiftieth.  Bear  in  mind  that  these  rates,  like  all 
fares  and  charges  in  the  Golden  State,  are  payable 
in  gold  or  its  equivalent  coin;  also,  that  they  are  the 
higJiest.     Hackmen  often  carry  for  less. 

Coaches. — Besides  the  hacks,  one  may  find  hotel 
coaches,   which  cany  free  to  the  hotel  for  which 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  115 

they  run,  or  charge  fifty  cents  for  each  passenger 
within  the  limits  above  specified. 

Cars. — The  red  carS  of  the  City  Front  line  pass 
the  head  of  the  dock  every  five  minutes.  These 
cany  one  to  the  very  door  of  the  "  Cosmopolitan/' 
and  "  Occidental  "  Hotels,  within  one  block  of  the 
"Lick  House,"  and  two  blocks  of  the  "Grand 
Hotel."  Directly  across  the  street  from  the  pier  of 
the  Sacramento  and  Stockton  steamers,  half  a  block 
from  the  landing  for  passengers  by  rail,  and  one 
block  from  the  landing  of  those  coming  by  Vallejo, 
the  green  cars  of  the  Sutter  street  line'  carry 
one  directly  by  the  "  Cosmopolitan,"  the  "  Lick 
House,"  and  the  "  Occidental,"  and  within  half  a 
block  of  the  "  Grand."  On  both  these  lines  the 
rate  is  ten  cents  coin  for  a  single  fare,  or  twenty- 
five  cents  for  a  coupon  ticket  good  for  four  rides. 

Wagons. — At  or  near  any  landing,  one  can  always 
find  numbered  express  wagons,  waiting  to  carry 
baggage  for  from  50  cents  to  $1.00,  according  to 
bulk,  weight,  or  distance. 

Porters. — Black,  white  and  yellow,  will  serve  you 
for  ' '  two  bits,  "  that  is  25  cents,  for  carrying  any 
reasonable  package  within  reasonable  distance.  It 
is  well,  however,  to  keep  your  eye  on  porter  and 
package. 

Baggage  and  Package  Expresses. — Half  an  hour 
or  more  before  reaching  the  city,  either  by  car  or 
boat,  agents  of  the  above  companies  will  take  your 


ii6  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

checks  and  your  money,  give  you  a  receipt  for  both, 
and  deliver  your  baggage,  for  25  cents  for  each  or- 
dinary-sized trunk  or  valise,  at  any  place  within  the 
single-fare  limits  already  given.  These  are  reliable 
and  responsible  companies,  whose  agents  none  need 
fear  to  trust.  They  deliver  baggage  promptly  and 
in  as  good  condition  as  received. 

Hotels. 

The  foreign  tourist  can  witness  to  the  great  lack 
of  really  fine  hotels  abroad.  All  England  hardly 
furnishes  a  single  hotel  to  rank  v>dth  the  best  of  our 
second-class  hotels  in  America.  Outside  of  Boston, 
New  York,  Philadelphia,  Chicago,  St.  Louis,  and 
Cincinnati,  few,  even  of  the  northern  cities,  pre- 
sent any  notable  hotel  attractions  to  the  temporary 
guest.  New  Orleans  has  a  single  good  hotel,  but 
hardly  one  of  the  other  southern  cities  has  yet  out- 
grown the  old-fashioned  "  tavern." 

In  respect  to  these — in  good  hotels — by  the  imme- 
diate and  unanimous  verdict  of  ever}"  tourist,  San 
Francisco  stands  preeminent.  Nowhere  on  the  con- 
tinent can  the  traveler  find  beds,  tables  and  rooms 
superior  to  those  of  the  "  Grand,"  the  "Occident- 
al," the  "  Cosmopolitan,"  and  the  "Lick  House." 
and  in  no  large  city  of  America  will  he  find  as  reas- 
onable charges,  considering  the  amount  and  quality 
of  accommodation  and  the  style  of  service  rendered. 

The  usual  standard  rate  at  the  four  leading  first- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  117 

*■■ 

class  houses,  is  $3.00  a  day,  for  board  and  room. 
At  the  *' Brooklyn,"  "  Kuss,"  and  "American  Ex- 
change, "  the  rates  are  $2.00  to  $2.50  a  day,  for 
good  rooms  and  equally  good  board. 

The  Gkand  Hotel. — This  magnificent  hotel  is  the 
newest  of  all.  It  stands  on  the  south  side  of  Market 
street,  occupying  the  whole  block  from  New  Mont- 
gomery to  Second  street,  and  stretching  southward 
along  new  Montgomery,  across  Stevenson  street  to 
Jessie.  Its  north  front  is  205  feet,  its  west  front 
335  feet,  thus  covering  over  one  acre  and  a  half  of 
ground.  Its  height  is  three  stories,  surmounted  by 
a  Mansard  roof,  containing  a  fourth.  Its  style  of 
architecture  may  be  called  the  "  modern  combina- 
tion," highly  ornamented.  In  method  of  construc- 
tion, it  is  a  complete  frame  building,  surrounded  by 
brick  walls  of  unusual  thickness.  Its  four  hundred 
rooms  include  chambers,  parlors  and  suits  of  the 
amplest  dimensions  and  the  richest  furnishing. 
The  halls,  corridors  and  stairways  are  spacious  and 
airy.  Through  all  the  halls,  at  intervals  of  every 
few  feet,  hang  coils  of  fire-hose,  each  attached  to 
full  hydrants,  and  always  ready  for  instant  use. 
Bath-rooms  and  toilets  abound.  Barber-shop,  bil- 
liard room,  and  the  most  elegantly  frescoed  bar- 
room upon  the  coast,  occupy  the  most  convenient 
portions  of  the  basement  and  first  floor.  An  amply- 
supplied  reading-room,  with  most  luxurious  chairs, 
juvites  and  detains  all  weary  guests.     Branch  offi- 


ii8  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

ces  of  the  leading  telegraphs,  postal  delivery  box, 
and  all  needed  facilities  for  coiTespondence,  are  at 
hand.  Hacks  stand  constantly  at  the  three  spa- 
cious entrances,  and  four  leading  lines  of  horse- 
cars  radiate  thence  to  every  portion  of  the  city  and 
suburbs. 

The  dining-hall  accommodates  three  ^hundred. 
Its  tables  are  of  moderate  size,  suiTounded  by 
plenty  of  room,  loaded  with  abundant  "  substan- 
tial," flanked  with  all  the  latest  delicacies,  and 
served  in  the  most  attentive  manner.  Breakfast 
rooms  for  private  parties,  and  separate  eating-rooms 
for  servants  and  children,  immediately  adjoin  the 
main  dining-hall.  A  large  and  well-appointed 
laundry  i^romptly  accommodates  guests. 

If  there's  anything  else  imaginable  in  the  whole 
list  of  first-class  hotel  accommodations,  just  mention 
it  to  your  obliging  host  Johnson,  or  his  courieous 
and  efficient  adjutant,  Eidgeway,  and  it  shall  go 
hard  but  they  will  furnish  it  for  you  at  once,  if  it  is 
to  be  had  within  the  limits  of  telegraph  and  ex- 
press. 

The  OccmENTAL. — This  popular  standard  house 
stands  upon  the  east  side  of  Montgomery;  its  west 
front  occupies  the  whole  block  from  Bush  street 
to  Sutter;  stretches  its  north  flank  half  a  block 
down  Bush  street,  while  its  south  flank  goes  a  hun- 
dred and  sixty-seven  feet  down  Sutter  street.  Ver- 
tically it  rises  six  stories  into  the  sunshine.     Four 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  119 

hundred  and  twelve  elegant  single  and  double 
rooms,  with  numerous  suits  having  ample  bathing 
and  other  accommodations,  besides  ladies'  parlors, 
dining-halls,  billiard-hall,  convenient  offices,  broad 
stairways,  spacious  halls,  and  roomy  passages, 
make  up  this  truly  magnificent  mammoth  establish- 
ment. The  carpets  and  furniture  are  of  the  most 
elegant  and  costly  description.  A  large  and  beauti- 
fully-fitted patent  safety  elevator  adjoins  the  grand 
staircase  near  the  main  hall,  and  reading-room  at 
the  Montgomery  street  entrance. 

Near  the  main  entrance  is  a  telegraph-office — 
hacks  stand  always  in  froirt,  and  four  leading  lines 
of  horse-cars  pass  the  three  entrances.  A  newspaper 
and  periodical  stand,  with  post-office  letter-box, 
complete  the  conveniences  of  the  reading-room. 

The  walls  are  braced  with  iron,  and  securely 
anchored,  besides  being  connected  across  the  build- 
ing by  heavy  iron  ties  on  every  stoiy.  Manager, 
Philip  McShane. 

Cosmopolitan  Hotel. — This  worthy  compeer  of 
the  two  already  described,  occupies  the  southwest 
corner  of  Bush  and  Sansome  streets.  Cen- 
trally-located, elegantly-constructed,  conveniently- 
arranged,  and  well-furnished,  this  house  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  newest  first-class  hotels.  An  extensive 
addition,  including  some  scores  of  single  and  double 
rooms,  richly  furnished  in  the  most  modern  style, 
sufficiently  indicate  its  prosj)erity.  Tubbs  &  Pat- 
ten, managers. 


120  BANCROFT' S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Lick  House. — West  side  of  Monjigomery ,  between 
Sutter  and  ^Post  streets.  Its  east  front  occupies 
tlie  entire  block  between  these  two  streets,  and 
runs  up  between  one  and  two  hundred  feet  of  each 
of  them.  Whilst  this  house  is  excellently^  finished 
and  furnished  throughout,  it  is  especially  cele- 
brated for  its  elegant  dining-hall,  which  is  probably 
more  artistically-planned  and  exquisitely-finished 
than  any  public  dining-hall  in  the  world.  Jno.  M. 
Lawlor  &  Co.,  managers. 

Brooklyn  Hotel. — Next  to  the  elegant  hotels 
already  named,  one  may  reckon  the  "Brooklyn" — on 
Bush  street,  north  side,  between  Montgomery  and 
Sansome.  This  excellent  house  makes  a  specialty 
of  accommodating  families,  having  an  unusually 
large  number  of  suits  of  rooms  especially  designed 
for  their  comfort.  Its  rates  are  about  two  thirds  of 
those  before  mentioned.  Hotel  coaches  convey  all 
guests  to  the  house  free  of  charge.  Messrs.  Kelly 
&  Wood,  proprietors. 

Besides  the  * 'Brooklyn,"  the  traveler  not  wishing 
to  stop  at  any  of  the  grander  and  dearer  houses, 
may  have  his  choice  of  the  "  Russ  House,"  west  side 
of  Montgomery,  from  Sutter  to  Pine,  Messrs.  Pear- 
son &  Seymour,  proprietors;  the  ''  American  Ex- 
change," Sansome  street,  west  side,  corner  of  Hal- 
leck,  Timothy  Sargent,  proprietor;  the  "Morton 
House,"  formerly  Orleans  Hotel,  117  Post  street, 
south  side,  just  above  Kearny;  and  the  "  Interna- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY. 


tional  Hotel,"  Wejgant  &  Partridge,  530-534  Jack- 
son street,  north  side,  just  below  Kearny. 

European  Plan. — One  fond  of  this  style,  may 
suit  himself  at  Gailhard's  Hotel,  Nos.  507  and  509 
Pine  street,  Pereira  &  Co.,  proprietors.  "  What 
Cheer  House" — This  famous  hotel  combines  the 
lodging-house  and  restaurant  under  one  roof,  with 
a  success  of  which  no  old  Californian  needs  be  told. 
Besides  the  usual  reading-room,  it  has  also  an  ex- 
tensive library  and  museum,  free  to  all  guests;  R. 
B.  Woodward,  proprietor,  525-529  Sacramento 
street. 

Lodging  Houses. 

Among  these  we  name  the  "  Nucleus"  and  the 
"  Clarendon"  as  equal  to  the  best.  The  "  Nucleus" 
stands  on  the  southeast  corner  of  Third  and  Mar- 
ket streets;  David  Stern,  proprietor.  The  "  Claren- 
don House,"  John  M.  Ward,  manager,  574  Folsom 
street,  northwest  corner  of  Second,  is  new  and 
central. 

Restaurants. 

Whether  a  man  eats  to  live  or  lives  to  eat,  he 
can  readily  suit  himself  here.  At  present  rates, 
the  traveler  can  get  better  food,  greater  variety, 
and  more  of  it  for  the  same  money,  than  in  any 
eastern  city.  Among  the  best  restaurants,  are 
Saulmann's,  520  California  street,  north  side,  be- 
tween Montgomery  and  Kearny;  Swaiil's  Family 
Bakery  and  Restaurant,   636  Market,    north  side, 


122  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

between  Montgomery  and  Kearny;  Martin's,  Com- 
mercial street;  Job's,  327  Kearny;  and  Lermitte's 
Coffee  Saloon,  530  Merchant  street. 

Baths. 

The  hotels  usually  furnish  first-class  facilities  with- 
out the  trouble  of  going  out  from  under  the  roof. 
Should  anyone,  however,  wish  a  more  extended  ap- 
plication of  fresh  or  salt  water,  hot  or  cold,  vapor 
or  steam,  Turkish,  Eussian  or  Koman,  he  has  come 
to  the  very  place  where  they  have  them  even  better 
than  in  their  original  countries.  If  you  doubt  it, 
ask  Bayard  Taylor. 

Zeile's  Baths,  at  527  Pacific  street,  north  side, 
between  Montgomery  and  Kearny,  furnish  more 
natural  facilities  and  improved  artificial  appliances 
for  the  scientific  aj^plication  of  Russian,  Turkish, 
and  Roman  baths,  than  any  other  establishment  in 
Europe  or  America.  The  visitor  will  be  surprised 
at  the  extent  and  completeness  of  eveiy  api^oint- 
ment  in  Dr.  Zeile's  establishment. 

Places  of  Amusement. 

No  matter  how  busy  you  may  be  at  home,  you 
are  here  for  enjoyment.  When  evening  comes  you 
want  a  good  lecture,  concert  or  i)lay.  We  have 
them  all — the  first  occasionally,  the  last  two  reg'u- 
larl}^  The  newest,  largest  and  finest  play  house 
is  the 


1^ 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  123 

Califoknia  Theater,  on  the  north  side  of  Bush 
street  between  Kearny  and  Dupont:  John  McCul- 
lough,  lessee  and  manager.  If  there's  a  good  play 
in  the  city,  we  generally  find  it  here-  if  there  are 
comfortable  chairs  and  luxurious  boxes  anywhere, 
they  are  certainly  here;  and  if  there's  an  artist  of 
good  taste  and  a  successful  manager  combined  in 
one  man,  his  name  is  John  McCuUough.  The  the- 
ater is  new  and  spacious,  having  comfoi-table  seats 
for  over  three  thousand,  one  of  the  largest  stages 
in  the  United  States,  with  complete  mechanical  ap- 
pliances, and  finely-j)ainted  scenery  and  drop- 
curtain. 

Metropolitan  Theater. — Montgomery  street,  north 
side,  between  Washington  and  Jackson.  Occasion- 
ally occupied  for  transient  engagements,  often  pre- 
senting excellent  plays.  Has  fine  acoustic  proper- 
ties; seats  two  thousand. 

Alhambra,  325  Bush  street.  This  is  a  snug  and 
tasty  combination  of  theater,  minstrels  and  opera 
house,  usually  presenting  some  popular  and  spicy 
blending  of  wit,  art  and  song. 

Maguire's  Opera  House.  ^ — Washington  street, 
north  side,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny; 
Thomas  Maguire,  proprietor.  This  is  the  famous 
old  theater  in  which  Forrest,  Kean  and  Booth  de- 
lighted the  California  audiences  of  earlier  days. 

Chinese  Theater. — At  No.  630  Jackson  street  the 
curious  visitor  may  witness  the  most  curious  medley 


124  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

ever  put  upon  a  stage  and  called  a  play.  An  inter- 
minable and  unintelligible  jargon  of  ding-dong, 
clatter-clattter,  tum-tum  and  rattle-rattle-rattle  com- 
bined with  falsetto  screeches,  wonderful  gymnas- 
tics, graceful  contortions,  terrific  sword  combats, 
and  strange  old  oriental  masqueradings,  is  what  you 
may  see  in  the  celestial  play  house.  Half  an  hour 
of  it  will  fully  satisfy  you;  but  every  eastern  visitor 
must  needs  endure  at  least  so  much. 

MusEuais  —  Woodward's. —  At  Woodward's  Gar- 
dens, Mission  street,  between  Thii'teenth  and  Four- 
teenth. This  contains  over  ten  thousand  si^ecimens 
of  zoology,  ornithology,  Indian  relics,  alcoholic  col- 
lections, natural  curiosities,  ancient  coins,  etc.,  be- 
sides a  beautifully  arranged  and  finely  lighted  art 
gallery,  including  several  rare  old  pictures,  and  a 
sort  of  floral  museum  in  the  shape  of  a  charming 
conservatory,  wherein  fragrance  vies  with  beauty  to 
delight  and  detain. 

Melodeons,  Dance  Halls,  Beer  Cellars. — We 
hardly  anticipate  that  the  average  tourist  will  care 
to  be  '*  guided"  into  places  under  this  heading,  but 
the  philosophic  student  of  human  nature,  as  well  as 
the  curious  observer  of  social  customs,  cannot  con- 
sider his  knowledge  of  any  city  complete  until  he 
has  personally  seen  and  actually  known,  not  only 
the  highest,  but  the  lowest,  amusements  extensively 
patronized  by  its  people.  Like  all  other  large  cities, 
San  Francisco  has  its  share  of  low  haunts  in  which 


^ 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND    VICINITY.  125 

really  modest,  and  sometimes  meritorious,  perform- 
ances blend  with  a  much  larger  proportion  of  im- 
modest, meretricious  and  disgraceful  ones. 

HaUs. 

Platt's  Hall. — 216  Montgomery,  east  side,  just 
north  of  Bush  street,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  in 
the  city.  Popular  concerts,  literary  lectures,  reli- 
gious anniversaries,  educational  celebrations,  magi- 
cal entertainments,  military  balls  and  social  dances, 
succeed  each  other  so  rapidly  that  there  are  few 
nights,  especially  in  the  pleasure  season,  when 
Piatt's  Hall  does  not  offer  something  worth  going 
to  see.     Henry  B.  Piatt,  proprietor. 

Union  Hall. — South  side  of  Howard,  near  Third. 
This  is  the  largest  permanent  hall  in  the  city,  and 
a  grand  place  for  unusually  large  social  parties,  ex- 
hibitions, political  conventions  and  popular  mass 
meetings.  It  easily  accommodates  upwards  of 
three  thousand. 

Pacific  Hall. — In  the  California  Theater  build- 
ing, north  side  of  Bush,  just  above  Kearny.  This 
is  a  centrally-located,  tastefully-finished  double 
hall,  that  is,  two  connected  so  as  to  be  used  singly 
or  jointly  according  to  need.  Capacity,  fifteen 
hundred. 

Mercantile  Library  Hall. — In  the  baseitient  of 
the  Mercantile  Library  Association  Building,  north 
side  of  Bush  street,  between  Montgomery  and  San- 


126  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

some.  Elegantly  finished  in  pure  white,  with 
paneled  and  ornamented  walls  and  ceilings.  Ac- 
commodates eight  hundred.  The  closeness  of  the 
neighboring  buildings  gives  it  a  bad  light  by  day, 
but  no  hall  in  the  city  lights  up  more  brilliantly  at 
night. 

Mechanics'  Institute  Hall. — Upon  the  lower 
floor  of  the  building  of  that  association,  south  side 
of  Post  street,  between  Montgomeiy  and  Kearny. 
This  is  another  newly-constructed,  conveniently- 
planned,  well-furnished  and  centrally-located  hall, 
with  a  medium  capacity  of  about  six  hundred. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  Hall. — Young  Men's  Christian  Asso- 
ciation building,  north  side  of  Sutter,  just  west  of 
Kearny.  A  remarkably  neat,  well-proportioned, 
lofty  and  well-ventilated  hall,  having  its  capacity 
largely  increased  by  a  conveniently-sloping  gallery 
stretching  across  the  whole  of  one  side,  and  throw- 
ing forward  its  flanks  at  either  end.  Capacity,  six 
hundred  and  fifty. 

Dashaway  Hall. — Dashaway  Society's  building, 
south  side  of  Post,  between  Kearny  and  Dupont. 
This  singular  name* belongs  to  the  pioneer  temper- 
ance organization  of  the  Pacific  coa^t.  Its  origin 
can  hardly  be  better  stated  than  .in  the  brief  sen- 
tences of  Tuthill,  in  his  History  of  California:  "  A 
company  of  firemen,  Howard  No.  3,  sitting  in  their 
engine  house  late  at  night,  January  1st,  1859,  cele- 
brating New  Year's  after  the  custom  of  the  country. 


SAJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  127 

fell  to  musing  over  tlieir  future  prospects,  and  were 
vouchsafed  a  vision  of  tlieir  probable  fate.  At  last 
they  solemnly  agreed  to  discontinue  the  use  of  in- 
toxicating liquor,  or,  as  they  phrased  it,  to  ' '  da^h 
away  the  cup."  They  accordingly  organized  a  tem- 
perance society  of  "  Dashaways,"  with  Frank  E.  E. 
Whitney,  chief  engineer  of  the  fire  department  of 
San  Francisco,  as  their  first  President,  pledging 
themselves  to  drink  nothing  intoxicating  for  five 
and  one  half  months.  They  kept  their  promise, 
and  liked  it  so  well  that,  before  reaching  the  limit 
of  their  self-imposed  pledge,  they  renewed  it  for 
all  time."  Thus  began  the  first  temperance  society 
of  California,  which  has  enrolled  thousands  of 
names,  erected  a  fine  building,  founded  a  large 
library,  and  maintains  weekly  lectures  to  this  day. 
In  a  country  where  wine  is  fast  becoming  a  chief 
production,  and  whose  greatest  present  danger  is  the 
social  glass,  the  origin,  efforts  and  success  of  the 
pioneer  temperance  organization  merit  more  than 
passing  notice. 

Billiards. — Tournaments  and  champions  of  this 
king  of  in-door  games  compel  brief  mention  of  this 
popular  amusement  and  the  j)laces  where  one  may 
best  enjoy  it.  Every  leading  hotel  has  a  fine  bil- 
liard room  attached ;  those  of  the  four  first  named 
are  palatial  in  the  elegance  and  richness  of  their 
finish  and  furniture. 

Bowling  Saloons  and  Shooting  Galleries. — We 
6 


128  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

set  these  togetlier,  not  because  of  am^  particular 
affinity  between  the  two,  but  because  the  city  has 
hardly  enough  of  either  to  make  an  item  of  one 
alone.  At  the  southwest  comer  of  Montgomery 
and  Pine,  the  enthusiastic  bowler  may  probably 
find  as  many  pins  as  he  can  prostrate,  with  attend- 
ants who  can  set  them  up  as  fast  as  he  can  knock 
them  down ;  while  at  913  Keamy  street,  he  can 
keep  up  his  practice,  if  ali'eady  an  expert,  or  "get 
his  hand  in,"  if  a  novice,  at 

"  Shooting  folly  as  she  flies." 
Those  wishing  the  longer  range  for  rifle  practice, 
find  it  at  Heiinann's,  near  the  Presidio,  that  is,  on 
one's  way  to  Fort  Point. 

Gymnasiums. 

Although  nominally  a  christian  land,  California 
has  yet  many  sturdy  "musclemen"  within  her  bor- 
ders, while  her  larger  cities  have  several  schools  of 
various  kinds,  for  the  training  of  young  disciples 
in  "  muscular  Christianity. 

Chief  among  these  in  San  Francisco,  stands  the 
Olympic  Club,  the  largest  physical  culture  club  in 
the  State.  Founded  in  1860,  duiing  its  eleven 
years  of  ceaseless  and  increasing  activity,  over  five 
thousand  persons  have  availed  themselves  of  its  ad- 
mii'able  facilities  for  acquiring  or  perfecting  one's 
ability  to  "travel  on  his  muscle."  It  is  by  no 
means  an  association   of  boys,  or  of  young  men 


-£^' 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  129 

only  ;  some  of  the  best  known  gray-beard  pioneers, 
with  many  of  the  leading  merchants  and  profession- 
al men,  have  enthusiastically  enjoyed  their  daily 
"  play-spell"  within  its  walls  for  many  years,  and 
they  do  it  still.  At  35  Sutter  street,  south  side, 
just  below  Montgomery,  one  may  find  their  spa- 
cious and  lofty  hall,  amj)ly  supplied  with  all  the 
paraphernalia  of  modern  gymnastics,  and  adorned 
with  several  large  paintings  in  oil,  by  prominent 
artists  who  are  also  Olympics,  besides  the  photo- 
graphs of  23ast  and  present  leading  members. 

The  San  Francisco  Turn-verein  have  their  hall 
and  rooms  on  the  north  side  of  OTarrell,  between 
Mason  and  Taylor.  Organized  in  1852,  it  is  the 
oldest  association  in  the  State,  owns  its  premises, 
and  has  an  actual  present  membership  of  nearly  six 
hundred.  It  is,  of  course,  conducted  ujpon  the 
German  plan. 

Y.  M.  C,  A. — Those  who  want  a  roll  at  the  pins 
upon  strictly  orthodox  principles,  or  to  punch  each 
other's  heads  under  the  sanction  of  Christianity, 
can  escape,  or  at  least  modif}^,  the  censure  of  their 
uncharitable  spiritual  superiors,  by  resorting  to  the 
very  neat  and  comfortable  gymnasium  in  the  base- 
ment of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association 
Building,  already  described.  This  has  the  great 
advantage  and  the  unquestionable  attraction  of 
providing  for  ladies  also.  It  has  all  the  necessary 
conveniences  of  bath-rooms  and  dressing-rooms  at- 
tached. 


130  BANCROFT'S  TOURTST'S  GUIDE.   . 

Skating  Einks. — Mercury,  the  fleet  messenger  of 
the  gods,  is  fabled  to  have  had  wings  upon  his  feet. 
Forbidden  by  gravity  to  emulate  him,  our  modern 
skaters  fasten  wheels  to  their  feet,  and  make  up  for 
their  inability  to  fly  by  developing  theii'  power  to 
skate.  The  immense  floor  of  the  Mechanics'  Insti- 
tute Mammoth  Pavilion,  on  the  west  side  of  Stock- 
ton, between  Post  and  Geary,  affords  the  largest 
and  smoothest  rink  to  be  found  in  the  union.  Two 
or  three  others  exist  in  the  city,  besides  the  very 
large  and  fine  new  one  in  the  j)aviHon  at  Wood- 
ward's Gardens. 

Base-Ball  and  Cricket  Grounds. — At  the  south- 
east corner  of  Folsom  and  Twenty-fifth  streets,  an 
entire  block,  inclosed  by  a  high  fence,  leveled  to 
the  necessaiy  smoothness  and  overlooked  by  sev- 
eral hundred  well-sheltered  spectators'  seats,  fur- 
nishes fine  accommodations  for  match  games  of 
base-ball  and  cricket.  Here  the  famous  Red 
Stockings,  of  Cincinnati,  won  fi-esh  laurels,  and 
the  officers  and  crew  of  H.  B.  M.  ship  Zealous, 
played  the  crack  cricket  clubs  of  the  State. 

Parks  and  Gardens. 

woodward's  gardens 
Are  on  the  west  side  of  Mission   street,  between 
Thirteenth  and  Fourteenth.     This  famous  resort  is 
both  park  and  garden,  and  much  more  besides.     Its 
fences  inclose  nearly  six  acres,  but  its  actual  surface 


.     SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  131 

considerably  surpasses  tliat  area,  from  the  fact  that 
the  hill-slopes  and  terraces,  with  the  various  floors 
and  galleries  of  the  different  buildings  really  double 
or  even  treble  the  original  sui'face  beneath,  so  that, 
if  sxDreadupon  one  level,  they  would  cover  thousands 
of  square  feet  more.  They  thus  rival  any  public 
square  in  size  and  far  surpass  it  in  variety  and 
beauty. 

We  reach  them,  by  the  red  cars  of  the  City  Kail- 
road  Company,  leaving  the  west  front  of  the  Grand 
Hotel,  at  the  junction  of  New  Montgomery  Avenue 
and  Market  street,  every  five  minutes — fare  five 
cents.  Or  we  may  go  out  by  either  the  Market 
street,  Howard  street,  or  Folsom  street  cars.  The 
first  of  these  carry  us  within  a  little  over  a  block  of 
the  entrance — fare,  five  cents;  the  second  within  a 
block,  and  the  third  within  two  blocks.  Fare  on 
the  last  two,  ten  cents  for  a  single  ride,  or  four 
tickets  for  a  quarter.  On  sunny  days  and  holiday 
afternoons  the  City  Railroad  runs  large,  open-sided 
excursion  or  picnic  cars,  newly  constructed  ex- 
pressly to  be  run  to  and  from  the  Gardens.  The 
entrance  is  upon  the  west  side  of  Mission,  be- 
tween Thirteenth  and  Fourteenth,  through  an 
elegant  architectural  gatewaj^,  or  sort  of  fagade, 
surmounted  by  four  colossal  statues,  or  carved 
figures.  The  two  central  figures  resemble  a  com- 
bination of  Minerva  and  the  Goddess  of  Liberty; 
one  might  not  go  far  wrong  in  letting  them  stand  for 


132  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

California  and  Oregon.  The  one  upon  either  flank  is 
a  notably  well-caiTed  giizzly;  larger  than  life  and 
twice  as  natural,  sitting  erect  upon  his  haunches, 
supporting  a  flag-staff  with  his  fore  paws,  and  with 
mouth  slightly  opened  in  an  amiable  grin  of  undis- 
guised pleasure  at  the  prominence  of  his  elevated 
position,  and  of  welcome  to  the  visiting  thousands 
who  constantly  deposit  their  quarters  and  dimes 
beneath  his  sentinel  post. 

Arrived  within  we  seem  to  have  suddenly  left  the 
windy  city  and  dusty  streets  far  behind.  Grassy 
lawns  siuTOund  beautiful  gardens.  Eveiy  variety 
of  flowerj'  vine  and  blossoming  shrub  alternates 
with  rare  trees  interspersed  here  and  there  with 
artificial  clumps  of  imported  trees,  or  stretching 
along  the  border  of  the  original  grove  native  to  the 
spo t ,  while  gi'avel  walks  wind  among  the  whole .  Im- 
mediately  upon  the  right  of  the  entrance,  in  the 
gate-keeper's  building,  is  a  libraiy  of  nearly  two 
thousand  standard  volumes,  many  of  them  rare  and 
costly.  Directly  in  front  of  the  gateway,  stands 
the 

MUSEUM, 

formerly  Mr.  "Woodward's  private  residence  —  at 
present  occupied  by  a  miscellaneous  museum  of 
natural  and  artificial  wonders,  beasts,  birds,  fishes 
and  shells,  with  an  occasional  freak  of  nature  in 
the  shape  of  a  mammoth  or  a  dwarf,  or  a  still 
more  startling  preservation  of  some  double-headed 


SAAT  FRANCISCO  AND  VICINITY.  133 

or  six-legged  specimens.  The  zoologist  or  ornithol- 
ogist would  scarcely  get  beyond  this  building  the 
first  day.     Left  of  the  Museum  stands  the 

CONSERVATORY. 

This  is  the  principal  one  pf  five  fiower  and  plant 
houses,  having  an  aggregate  length  of  three  hun- 
dred feet  by  one  tenth  that  width.  This  is  a  really 
elegant  crystal  palace  in  miniature,  filled  with  the 
beauty  and  fragrance  of  the  rarest  exotics.  Through 
this  one  may  pass  directly  to  the 

ART    GALLERY. 

The  vestibule  or  ante-room  of  the  Art  Gallery  is 
in  fact  another  museum,  containing  two  statues,  an 
extensive  collection  of  birds  and  bird's  eggs;  up- 
wards of  a  thousand  coins  of  all  ages  and  nations, 
curious  idols  and  weapons,  with  hundreds  of  other 
curiosities  helpfully  classified,  and  the  whole  en- 
closed in  an  ante-room  elegantly  proportioned  and 
beautifully  frescoed  by  Poldeman,  in  imitation  of 
Pompeii.  Thence  we  enter  the  Art  Gallery  proper, 
lighted  from  above — frescoed  by  the  same  artist — 
decorated,  in  the  corners,  with  allegorical  represen- 
tations of  Painting,  Sculpture,  Music  and  Architect- 
ure— while  over  the  door  hang  the  two  celebrated 
bas-reliefs,  "Night"  and  "Morning,"  by  Thor- 
waldsen.  Niches  on  each  side  contain  busts  of 
Schiller,  Goethe,  Tasso  and  Petrarch,  Over  sixty 
rare  old  paintings  or  faithful  copies  cover  the  walls. 


134  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Raphael  and  Salvator  Rosa  appear  in  beautiful 
copies;  several  gems  from  the  best  Dutch  masters 
furnish  a  transition  to  the  modem  school,  of 
which  one  or  two  pictures  from  Bierstadt,  and  two 
or  three  views  of  California  scenery  by  Virgil  Wil- 
liams, stand  as  pleasing  tyj)es. 

Leaving  the  Art  Gallery,  by  another  exit,  we 
stand  upon  the  margin  of  a  lovely  little  lake,  around 
whose  centre  revolves  the  great  attraction  for  the 
young  folks,  and  no  small  novelty  to  most  adult 
visitors,  the  famous 

ROTAEY    BOAT. 

This  endless  craft  is  a  huge  circular  vessel,  rigged 
with  fore  and  aft  sails,  and  seating  a  hundred  peo- 
ple, who  step  in  from  the  concave  landing  upon  one 
side  as  the  radial  seats  successively  come  uj).  It 
would  puzzle  the  *'  cutest"  old  salt  to  find  bow  or 
stern  to  this  curious  craft;  the  shrewdest  country- 
men have  to  confess  that  they  "  can't  make  head 
nor  tail  out  of  tlie  thing,"  while  the  enjoyment 
which  the  youngsters  find  in  it,  hke  the  boat  itself, 
never  comes  to  an  end. 

Between  the  lake  and  the  conservatory,  an  out- 
door 

GYMNASIUM, 

with  ladders,  bars,  rings,  swings  and  climbing- 
poles,  accommodates  all  who  may  wish  to  recreate 
the  body.     From  the  lake   flows  a  little  stream, 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  VICINITV. 


along  whose  banks  the  pelican,  the  crane,  the  alba- 
tross, the  wild  goose  and  the  common  gull,  pom- 
pously stalk  or  awkwardly  waddle;  while  in  its 
water,  two  or  three  beavers,  a  pair  of  minks  and  a 
seal  or  two,  make  their  homes.     Beyond  this,  the 

HENNERY, 

in  which  the  admirer  of  fine  poultry  may  see  a  large 
variety  of  the  choicest  stock.  An  ad;joining  in- 
closure  presents  a  pair  of  ostriches,  and  another 
has  two  or  three  beautiful  deer  and  fawn.  Near 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  garden,  the 

TUNNEL 

carries  the  visitor  through  a  heavily-timbered,  se- 
curely planked,  cleanly-kept  and  well-lighted  pas- 
sage under  Fourteenth  street,  into  the 

ZOOLOGICAL  GROUNDS 

and  the  amphitheater.  Here,  ranged  along  the 
north  side,  backed  by  a  high  and  tight  fence,  and 
fronting  the  south  that  they  may  have  the  warmest 
possible  exposure,  are  the  animals  of  the  menagerie. 
Royal  Bengal  Tigers,  Rocky  Mountain  Grizzlies, 
Mexican  Panthers,  and  South  American  Jaguars, 
Australian  Kangaroos,  and  a  curious  medley  of 
dissimilar  animals  known  as  the  "Happy  Family," 
make  up  the  caged  collection.  The  cages  are 
roomy,  airy,  cleanly  and  secure.  The  animals  are 
remarkably  fine  specimens,  kept  in  capital  condi- 


136  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

tion,  and  the  keeper  is  intelligent  and  courteous. 
Bej'ond  the  great  cages  is  another  range  of  small- 
er ones,  containing  black  and  cinnamon  bears,  fox- 
es, badgers,  raccoons,  opossums,  and  mischievous 
monkeys  of  all  sizes.  Esquimaux  dogs,  Siberian 
reindeer  and  European  elk,  with  many  other  ani- 
mals, more  than  we  have  space  even  to  catalogue, 
make  up  a  collection  of  animated  nature  sufficient 
to  stock  haif  a  dozen  ordinaiy  traveling  shows,  and 
still  leave  enough  on  hand  to  surpass  any  of  them. 
Besides  these,  spacious  inclosures  allow  Arabian 
and  Bactrian  camels  a  free  promenade,  while  still 
beyond,  another  yard  is  tenanted  by  the  shaggiest, 
sleepiest-looking,  most  patient  and  good-natured 
donkeys  that  ever  allowed  a  gang  of  roistering 
youngsters  to  pack  themselves  upon  their  backs, 
only  to  be  incontinently  and  ignominously  pitched 
over  their  heads  into  a  promiscuous  pile  of  dust- 
covered  and  disgusted  juvenile  humanity.  At  the 
extreme  end  of  the  Zoological  Grounds  the  inclos- 
ure  on  the  right  contains  a  genuine  Rocky  Mountain 
Buffalo,  while  in  the  larger  one  upon  the  left,  two 
or  three  reindeer  contentedly  browse. 

AMPHITHEATER . 

In  the  center  of  the  zoological  grounds,  a  large 
race-course,  securely  inclosed  between  inner  and 
outer  circular  fences,  affords  free  scope  for  Roman 
Chariot  races,  hurdle  races,  foot  races,  and  eques- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  137 

trian  performances  generally.  Within  the  inner 
fence,  a  level  circle  of  some  eighty  feet  diameter,  ac- 
commodates acrobatic  performers ;  while  a  lofty  pole, 
rising  from  its  center,  furnishes  ambitious  young- 
sters all  needed  facilities  for  flying  swings  or  skillful 
"  shinning/'  Around  this  stadium  are  raised  seats 
for  three  thousand,  with  a  covered  portion  shelter- 
ing six  hundred,  not  to  mention  standing  room  for 
ten  thousand  more. 

Keturning  through  the  tunnel  we  turn  to  the 
left,  ascend  the  hill  and  enter  the 

PAVILION. 

This  is  the  largest  and  strongest  permanent 
wooden  building  upon  the  coast.  It  has  the  form 
of  a  parallelogram  with  the  corners  unequally  cut 
off,  thus  giving  its  ground  outline  the  shape  of  an 
irregular  octagon.  It  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
long,  by  one  hundred  and  thirty  wide  and  fifty 
high,  surmounted  by  a  water-tight  roof,  nearly  an 
acre  and  a  half  in  extent.  Half  a  dozen  broad  en- 
trances admit  us  to  the  spacious  interior.  Here  we 
have  a  central  floor;  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  long 
by  ninety  feet  wide,  as  solidly  laid,  perfectly  fitted 
and  smoothly  planed  as  art  could  make  it,  and 
furnishing  the  finest 

SKATING  KINK 

imaginable,  or  the  most  capacious  ball-room  floor 
to  be  desired.     Around  this  floor,  a  sort  of  dress- 


138  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S    GUIDE. 

circle,  fitted  with  easy  seats,  separated  by  broad 
aisles  and  roomy  spaces,  rises  gradually  back  to  tbe 
surrounding  wall.  This  dress-circle  accommodates 
three  thousand  spectators.  Above  it  is  a  broad 
gallery  of  equal  size,  similarly  fitted  and  holding  as 
many.  The  gallery  windows  command  a  fine  yiew 
of  the  underlying  gardens,  the  meandering  walks,  the 
lake,  the  conservatories,  shrubbeiy  andthejnuse- 
um ;  of  the  zoological  grounds  and  amphitheater 
further  away,  and  of  the  southwestern  suburbs, 
bounded  by  the  Mission  hills,  beyond.  This  pa- 
vilion has  a  seating  capacity  of  six  thousand,  while 
for  any  brief  mass-meeting,  four  thousand  more 
could  easily  stand  in  the  nine  thousand  nine  hun- 
dred square  feet  of  space  upon  the  floor.  A  com- 
modious and  conveniently  located  music,  or  speak- 
er's stand,  with  broad  staii'ways  between  dress-cii'cle 
and  gallery,  complete  the  appointments  of  this 
mammoth  building,  whose  workman-like  finish  and 
enormous  strength,  fully  equal  its  huge  size  and 
immense  capacity.  Just  west  of  the  pavilion  stands 
a  pictirresque  little 

^  TURKISH  MOSQUE, 

whose  exterior  faithfullj-  reproduces  the  oriental 
original.  Its  interior  is  tastefully  frescoed,  while 
its  domed  ceiling  presents  an  astronomical  fresco, 
representing  the  stany  heavens.  Near  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  pavilion  is  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  139 

RESTAUEANT, 

SO  that  one  need  not  leave  the  grounds,  should  he 
find  occasion  to  fill  his  stomach  before  he  has  suf- 
ficiently feasted  his  eyes.  Between  the  restaurant 
and  the  mosque,  occuj)ying  the  highest  point  of 
the  hill,  stands  ^ 

THE  OBSERVATORY, 

formed  by  a  secure  railing  and  comfortable  seats 
inclosing  and  surrounding  the  circular  top  of  a 
huge  reservoir,  or  tank.  Until  the  recent  erection 
of  the  pavilion,  this  was  the  best  point  of  view  from 
which  to  study  the  plan  of  the  grounds  and  enjoy 
their  scenery;  and  even  now,  it  well  rewards  ascent, 
especially  for  those  who  hardly  care  to  climb  into 
the  pavilion  gallery. 

In  various  snug  places  among  and  under  the 
trees,  and,  in  some  places,  surrounding  their  trunks, 
are  scattered  scores  of  ^ 

LUNCH    TABLES, 

as  a  sort  of  out-post  or  picket-guard  thrown  out  by 
the  restaurant  proper.  All  about  the  top  of  the 
pavilion  hill,  -and  for  some  distance  down  its  sides, 
these  tables,  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  round,  ring- 
shaped,  triangular,  octagonal,  square,  and  "par- 
allelogramical,"  and  suiTOunded  by  an  abundance 
of  comfortable  seats,  occupy  the  most  romantic  sit- 
uations. Descending  the  hill-slope  by  a  winding 
path,  we  pass  a  broad  lawn  upon  the  left,  on  which 


I40  BANCRObT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

the  enterprising  proprietor  proposes  the  early  erec- 
tion of  a  large,  conveniently-arranged  fire-proof 
museum,  for  the  better  security  of  his  valuable 
collections  and  cabinets. 

We  have  now  completed  the  general  tour  of  this 
elegant  park,  with  its  delightful  combination  of  the 
beautiful  in  nature  and  the  wonderful  in  art,  with 
the  rarest  curiosities  of  both.  As  a  broad  and  airy- 
holiday  play-ground  for  tired  pupils,  as  a  romantic 
retreat  for  family  picnics,  as  a  pleasure-park  for  the 
quiet  promenades  of  old  and  young,  as  a  varied 
field  of  study  for  the  natiu^alist,  as  one  of  the  lungs 
through  which  the  tired  and  dusty  city  may  draw  a 
cool,  refreshing,  healthful  breath,  and,  finally,  as  a 
grand  union  of  park,  garden,  conservatory,  muse- 
um, gymnasium,  zoological  grounds  and  art  gal- 
lery, no  eastern  city  offers  the  equal  of  Woodward's 
Gardens. 

City  Gardens. 

On  the  south  side  of  Twelfth  street,  stretching 
from  Folsom  to  Harrison,  and  running  half  a 
block  south.  Entrance  on  the  corner  of  Folsom 
and  Twelfth.  Reached  most  directly  by  the  Fol- 
som street  cars.     Admission,  25  cts. 

Menageries. 

The  finest  in  the  city  is  that  already  described  in 
the  zoological  department  of  Woodward's  Gardens. 


SAiV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  141 

The   only   other  is   a   small   collection   of    bears, 
monkeys  and  birds  at  North  Beach. 

Squares  and  Parks. 

The  oldest  and  best  finished  public  square  is 
Portsmouth  Square,  commonly  called  the  Plaza,  on 
the  west  side  of  Kearny  street,  extending  from 
Clay  street  to  Washington  street,  and  directly  front- 
ing the  old  City  Hall.  Besides  these  are  Washing- 
ton, Union,  Columbia,  Lobos,  Alcatraz,  Lafayette, 
Jefferson,  Alta,  Hamilton  and  Alamo  Squares,  with 
Yerba  Buena,  Buena  Yista  and  Golden  Gate  Parks. 
The  last  named  covers  nearly  1,200  acres,  (of  sand 
at  present.)  Of  these,  the  Plaza  and  Washington 
Square  are  the  principal  ones  which  have  been  suf- 
ficiently improved  to  merit  even  passing  notice. 
To  these  one  may  add  South  Park,  a  small  but 
elegant  private  inclosure  occupying  the  centre  of 
the  block  between  Bryant  and  Brannan  streets. 

Promenades. 

Montgomery  Street. — This  is  the  San  Francisco 
Broadway.  Flanked  on  either  side  by  many  of 
the  largest  and  finest  retail  business  houses,  as  well 
as  two  of  the  leading  hotels.  During  the  fore- 
noon business  monopolizes  it  almost  exclusively; 
afternoons  fashion  claims  its  sidewalks,  and  well- 
nigh  crowds  business,  not  exactly  to  the  wall,  but 
rather  upon  the  curbstone,  if  not  fairly  into  the 


142  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

gutter.  From  three  to  five  p.  m.  the  tide  of  mam- 
mon begins  to  ebb,  and  that  of  fashion  swells  in  at 
full  flood.  Fair  women  and  frail,  beauty  and 
ugliness — calicoes,  silks,  satins,  velvets,  broad- 
cloths, beavers  and  cashmere,  make  up  the  motley- 
throng,  swaying  and  trailing  up  and  down  the 
crowded  thoroughfare.  The  faces  are  ver}"  fair,  ' '  as 
far  as  we  can  see,"  and  the  forms  equally  graceful, 
with  the  same  limitation. 

Masculine  faces,  broad-browed,  clear-ey^,  bronze- 
cheeked,  firm-mouthed  or  full-bearded,  impress  one 
with  the  dash,  the  drive  and  the  nerve  which  have 
spanned  the  continent  with  rails  and  bridged  the 
Pacific  with  ships,  ere  yet  the  flush  of  full  manhood 
has  fairly  settled  upon  them.  Too  many,  it  is  true, 
show  the  full,  uncertain  lip,  the  flushed  cheek  and 
dewy  eye  that  tell  of  excessive  stimulus  too  fre- 
quently applied.  Nowhere  on  earth  is  the  tempta- 
tion to  drink  stronger  than  here.  Business  is 
sharp,  competition  brisk,  and  the  climate  the  most 
stimulating  anywhere  to  be  found.  So  they  drive 
till  natui'e  falters  or  weakens  and  calls  for  rest. 
But  rest  they  cannot  or  will  not  afford ;  the  stimu- 
lus is  quicker y  it  is  everywhere  close  at  hand — it 
seems  to  save  time.  Business  men  die  suddenly ; 
on  the  street  to-day,  at  Laurel  Hill  to-morrow; 
heart  disease,  apoplexy,  congestion  of  the  lungs,  or 
liver  complaint,  are  among  fhe  causes  most  fre- 
quently  assigned  to   the   inquiring  public.      The 


SAN  FRAA  CISCO  AND   VICINITY.  143 

causes  of  these  causes,  few  stop  to  ask,  or  dare  to- 
tell. 

Kearny  Street. — Parallel  witli  Montgomery  and 
but  a  single  block  above,  that  is,  west  of  it,  runs 
the  rival,  if  not  already  the  equal,  business  and 
pleasure  avenue,  Kearny  street.  Though  some  sin- 
gle buildings  on  Montgomery  may  be  finer,  the  av- 
erage of  the  business  blocks  along  Kearjiy  street 
already  equals,  if  it  does  not  surpass  that  of  its 
rival.  Tlie  street  itself  is  broader,  the  sidewalks 
wider,  while  the  press  of  vehicles  and  the  throngs 
of  fashion  are  fully  equal. 

California  Street. — At  right  angles  with  both 
these  streets,  and  intersecting  them  near  their  cen- 
tre, California  street,  the  "Wall  street  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, runs  straight  down  from  one  of  the  highest 
summits  within  the  city  limits,  to  within  two  blocks 
of  the  water  front,  and  there  debouches  into  Mar- 
ket. Its  upper  portion  lies  between  elegant  private 
residences ;  half  way  down  the  slope  stand  two  of 
the  leading  city  churches ;  below,  the  Alia  office, 
and  leading  telegraj)h  offices ;  thence  from  Mont- 
gomery down,  the  finest  number  of  business  blocks 
the  city  presents.  On  this  street  below  Montgom- 
ery, the  Bank  of  California,  the  Merchants'  Ex- 
change, the  Pacific  Insurance  Company's  Building, 
Hayward's,  Duncan's,  and  Wormser's,  with  other 
blocks  and  building^,  present  a  continuous  front  of 
architectural  beauty  rarely  equaled. 


144  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

]VL\EKET  Street. — This  broad,  dividing  avenue 
which  separates  the  older  city  from  the  nev^er, 
offers  a  rare  architectui'al  medley  to  the  exploring 
tourist's  eye.  Some  of  the  grandest  business  blocks 
on  the  Pacific  slope  tower  up  between  or  stand 
squarely  opposite  the  frailest  wooden  shells  that 
yet  sunive  the  "  early  days."  Kunning  up  from 
the  water,  one  encounters  such  noble  blocks  as 
Treadwell's,  not  lofty  but  broad,  deep  and  strong. 
Harpending's  whole-block  front.  Tlfe  Grand 
Hotel  and  Nucleus  foretell  the  size  and  style  of  the 
blocks  which  are  yet  to  form  continuous  fronts 
along  this  main  artery  of  trade. 

Second,  Thiei)  and  Fourth  Streets. — South  of 
Market,  these  streets  come  nearer  to  fashionable 
streets  than  any  others;  especially  along  the  blocks 
nearer  to  Market.  They  present  several  single 
buildings  of  notable  size  and  style. 

The  Best  Temee. — For  any  walk  or  drive  within 
the  city  limits,  or  on  the  entire  San  Francisco 
peninstdar,  the  most  comfortable  hours  of  all  the 
day,  during  the  season  in  which  the  tourists  com- 
monly visit  us,  that  is  from  May  to  September,  are, 
unquestionably,  the  morning  hours;  the  earlier  the 
better.  If  you  would  see  men  and  women  go 
later;  take  the  afternoon,  face  the  wind  and  the 
dust,  be  lifted  bodily  off  your  feet,  round  "Cape 
Horn,"  as  they  call  the  southe'ast  corner  of  Market 
and  Third  streets,  until  you  have  quite  enough  of 


SAJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  145 

that  "free-soil"  which  may  be  a  very  fine  thing  in 
politics,  but  is, a  "  beastly  disagreeable  thing,"  as 
our  English  friends  might  say,  on  a  promenade. 

Drives. 

The  Cliff  House  Eoad. — Stretches rfsvesterly  from 
the  city  limits,  now  the  west  end  of  Bush  street,  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean  beach — originally  a  mere  trail 
over  shifting  sand  hills.  It  has  become  the  broad- 
est, hardest,  smoothest  and  longest  track  in  the 
State.  If  you  want  an  idea  o'f  California  horse- 
flesh, and  San  Francisco  turnouts,  trot  out  this 
way  almost  any  day.  The  track  has  a  fine,  hard 
surface  wide  enough,  in  places,  for  twenty  teams 
abreast,  and  is  often  nearly  filled  from  side  to  side 
with  smooth-rolling  or  friendly  racing  teams,  from 
the  natty  single  buggy  to  the  elegant  coach,  or  the 
stately  four-in-hand.  A  million  dollars'  worth  of 
legs  and  wheels  flash  by  a  man  in  a  very  few  hours 
on  this  fashionable  drive,  especially  on  a  race-day. 
Along  this  road  are  one  or  two  waj^side  inns,  which, 
like  the  majority  of  California  inns,  are  chiefly 
drinking-houses  under  another  name.  At  the  end 
stands  the  Cliff  House,  so  named  from  its  site, 
the  solid  top  of  a  precipitous  rocky  bluff  or 
cliff,  overlooking  ihe  Seal  Rocks,  a  few  hun- 
dred feet  west;  then  a  thirty-mile  horizon  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  broken  only  by  the  sharp 
rocky  points  of  the  Farallones  low  down  under  the 


146.  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

western  sky,  visible  only  when  fogs  and  mists  and 
haze  are  wanting.  Attached  to  the  house  are  long 
►  horse  sheds  which  shut  off  the  wind  from  3- our 
horse  while  his  driver  goes  in  to  interview  Fouler, 
mine  host  of  the  Cliff.  South  of  the  Cliff  the  road 
goes  down  k)  and  out  upon  the  Ocean  House, 
which  differs  little  from  the  popular  eastern  beach 
drives,  except  that  it  is  not  as  wide  even  at  the 
lowest  of  the  tide,  and  that  the  ocean  view  thence 
is  far  more  seldom  diversified  with  sails.  The 
beach  and  surf  are  good,  however,  and  a  brisk 
drive  of  two  or  three  miles  upon  it,  seldom  fails  to 
put  the  oxygen  into  the  lungs — the  iodine  into 
the  blood,  and  the  exhilaration  into  the  S]3irits. 
Some  two  or  three  miles  south  of  the  Cliff  House, 
the  road  bends  east,  leaves  the  beach  and  starts 
back  to  the  city  by  another  way,  known  as  the 

Ocean  House  Road,  named,  like  the  other,  from 
the  house  standing  near  its  seaward  end.  Ap- 
proaching the  city  by  this  route,  one  reaches  a 
greater  height  than  by  the  Cliff  House  road,  and 
when  about  two  miles  from  the  city,  enjoys  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  southern  and  western  city,  the  ship- 
ping, the  bay,  the  opposite  shore,  the  trailing  cities 
and  towns,  whose  houses  gleam  between  the  trees 
of  Contra  Costa  and  Alamedar  counties,  with  their 
grassy  foot-hills,  the  whole  view  backed  and  bound- 
ed by  old  Mt.  Diablo  beyond^.  Returning  by  this 
road,  one  enters  the  city  suburbs  upon  the  south- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  147 

west  by  Seventeenth,  or  Corbett  street,  passes  di- 
rectly by  the  Mission  with  the  famous  old  church 
which  named  it,  and  pursues  his  way  back  to  the 
centre  by  Market,  Mission,  Howard  or  Folsom 
streets.  Between  the  Cliff  House  and  Ocean  House 
roads,  and  nearer  the  latter,  private  enterprise  has 
recently  constructed  a  thii'd  track,  known  as  the 
Central  Ocean  Drive. 

Bay  Yiew  Road. — Drive  from  Market  street  along 
Third  to  the  Long  Bridge,  cross  that  to  the  Potrero, 
keep  straight  on  through  the  deep  cut,  over  the 
Islais  bridge,  thence  through  South  San  Francisco, 
up  a  little  rise,  from  whose  summit  you  look  down 
into  a  little  valley  or  green  bay  of  vegetable  gar- 
dens, between  which  and  the  water  stands  the  Bay 
View  House,  on  one  side  of  the  Bay  Yiew  race 
track.  From  several  points  as  you  drive  out,  you 
will  readily  understand  why  they  used  the  phrase 
"Bay  Yiew"  so  frequently  in  naming  localities 
hereabout.  If  you  wish  to  return  by  another  way, 
drive  half  a  mile  beyond  the  track,  where  your  way 
runs  into  the  older  road  of  early  times.  If  you  have 
time,  drive  on  to  the  brow  of  the  hill  and  look  down 
into  Yisitacion  Yalley;  if  not,  at  the  acute  angle 
where  the  roads  become  one,  you  turn  sharply 
back,  and  after  two  miles  of -slightly  uneven  road, 
enter  the  city  between  the  eastern  edge  bf  the  Mis- 
sion flats  and  the  western  foot  of  the  Potrero  hills. 

The  best  time  for  all  these  drives,  as  already  said 


148  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

concerning  tlie  promenades,  is  morning,  the  earlier 
the  better.  Besides  the  greater  purity  and  fresh- 
ness of  the  air,  everywhere  accompanying  the  morn- 
ing hours,  one  then  escapes  the  wind  and  dust 
which,  on  nearly  every  afternoon,  constitute  the 
chief  drawback  from  the  full  enjoyment  of  outdoor 
pleasure  during  those  hours. 

Librariea 

In  these  windy  and  dusty  afternoons,  when  na- 
ture seems  to  frown,  art  and  literature  invite  you 
within,  and  proffer  quiet  retreats  with  the  best  of 
company — good  books.  For  a  city  as  young  and 
as  distinctively  absorbed  in  business,  San  Francisco 
has  amply  provided  for  the  gratification  of  scien- 
tific research  or  literary  taste.  The  chief  libraries 
are  the  Mercantile,  the  Mechanics'  Institute,  the 
Odd  Fellows',  the  Pioneers',  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A., 
each  of  which  is  located  in  the  building  of  the  same 
name,  presently  to  be  noticed.  Besides  these,  at 
the  AYhat  Cheer  House,  and  at  Woodward's  Gar- 
dens, one  finds  two  or  three  thousand  well  selected 
standard  volumes,  free  to  guests  and  visitors. 

Public  Buildings. 

FEDERAL. 

Post-Office. — The  first  of  these  to  every  toiuist 
is,  naturally,  the  Government  building  thi'ough 
which  his  letters  come  and  go.     This  is  a  mode- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  149 

rately-sized  two-story  building  of  stuccoed  brick, 
running  parallel  Tvith  the  west  side  of  Battery  street, 
between  Washington  and  Jackson,  One  may  enter 
from  any  street  of  the  three.  The  ladies'  entrance, 
which  is  also  common,  is  from  Washington  street. 
The  principal  business  entrance  is  on  the  west  front 
of  the  building,  through  a  cross  street  entered  at 
either  end  from  Washington  or  Jackson.  The 
office  opens  daily  at  8  a.  m.,  and  closes  at  6:30  p.m., 
except  Sundays,  when  its  only  open  hour  is  from 
9  to  10  A.M.  The  great  overland  mail  for  New 
York,  by  the  way  of  Salt  Lake  and  Omaha,  closes 
every  week  day  at  7:30  a.  m.,  and  on  Saturdays  at 
3  p.  M.     N.  B.  Stone,  P.  M. 

The  Custom  House  is  simply  the  upper  floor  of 
the  Post-office  building.  Entrance  on  Battery, 
near  W^ashington.     Timothy  G.  Phelps,  Collector. 

U.  S.  Bkanch  Mint. — The  old  building  still  occu- 
pied, and  likely  to  be  for  at  least  a  year,  stands  on 
the  north  side  of  Commercial,  near  Montgomery. 
Office  hours  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m.  Visitors  re- 
ceived daily  from  9  to  12.  O.  H.  La  Grange,  Su- 
perintendent. 

The  New  Mint,  or  what  is  to  be  that  building, 
stands  on  the  northwest  corner  of  Fifth  and  Mission 
streets.  Its  ground  dimensions  are  221J  feet  on 
Fifth,  by  166J  feet  on  Mission  street.  The  base- 
ment is  already  built  of  California  granite.  Above 
the  basement,  which  is  13|  feet  high,  the  walls  are 


150  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

built  of  blue-gray  freestone,  from  Newcastle  Island 
in  tbe  Gulf  of  Georgia,  between  Vancouver's  Island 
and  the  mainland  of  Britisb  Columbia.  Thus,  Un- 
cle Sam  is  building  his  new  Mint  of  Biitish  stone. 
Two  stories  of  18J  feet  each  will  surmount  the 
high  basement.  The  lower  of  these  is  now  nearly 
completed.  From  the  pavement  to  the  crown  of 
the  roof  will  be  70  feet.  Two  chimneys  will  tower 
to  the  height  of  150  feet. 

The  U.  S.  Maeine  Hospital  stands  at  the  north- 
east corner  of  Harrison  and  Main  streets,  upon  the 
northeast  slope  of  Rincon  Hill.  This  is  the  old 
building.  The  hosi)ital  also  occupies  the  former 
buildings  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  on  the 
southeast  corner  of  Mission  and  Fifteenth  streets. 

CITY    AND    C0U^'TY   BUILDINGS. 

Old  City  Hall. — This  famous  old  brick  and 
stucco,  two-story,  earthquake-cracked,  and  iron- 
braced  structure,  with  the  adjoining  Hall  of 
Records,  stretches  along  the  east  side  of  Kearny 
street  from  Merchant  to  Washington,  and  extends 
nearl}^  a  third  of  the  block  down  each  of  those 
streets.  The  police-offices  and  lock-ups  occupy 
the  basement,  while  the  usual  District  Court  rooms, 
with  Judges'  Chambers*  and  municipal  offices.  Su- 
pervisors' and  Board  of  Education  rooms,  fill  the 
upper  floors,  and  clamor  for  more  room. 

The  New    Crrv    Hall  thus   far   exists   only   on 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  151 


paper.  Tlie  Commissioners  have  chosen  an  elabo- 
rate plan  for  a  costly  edifice,  wliicli  will  far  surpass 
anything  on  the  coast  in  architectural  beauty;  but 
the  execution  of  that  plan  has  hardly  yet  completed 
the  excavation  for  the  foundation  walls.  Hence  it 
is  yet  too  early  to  tantalize  the  tourist  with  descrip- 
tions of  a  beautiful  building  not  yet  visible,  except  in 
the  architect's  drawing,  or  the  lithographic  copies. 
If  any  tourist  is  curious  to  see  the  ^ite^  he  may  find  it 
by  going  out  Market  street  till  he  reaches  what  was 
known  as  Yerba  Buena  Park,  corner  of  Market 
and  Seventh  streets.  The  City  Hall  Commissioners 
adopted  the  plans  and  sj)ecifications  of  Mr.  Augus- 
tus Laver,  of  New  York,  and  elected  him  architect; 
but,  at  the  present  rate  of  progress,  it  is  hardly 
probable  that  less  than  two  or  three  years  will 
witness  the  completion  of  the  urgently-needed  and 
magnificently-designed  new  City  Hall. 

Jail. — On  the  north  side  of  Broadway,  between 
Dupont  and  Kearny,  one  desirous  of  inspecting 
our  penal  institutions  may  find  ample  opportunity  to 
study  the  physiognomy  of  that  class  which  inhab- 
its them,  and  learn  the  crimes  which  preponderate 
in  the  Pacific  metropolis.     Sheriff,  P.  J.  White. 

Almshouse. — This  asylum  occupies  one  of  the 
healthiest  locations  in  the  State,  near  the  Ocean 
House,  or  San  Miguel  road,  about  four  and  one 
quarter  miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall.  M.  J. 
Keating,  Superintendent. 
7 


152  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE, 

_  . 

Industrial  School. — This  finely-consti-ucted,  con- 
veniently-aiTanged  and  well-managed  reform  school, 
stands  on  the  western  slope  of  the  peninsula  hills, 
about  seven  miles  southwest  of  the  city.  Like  the 
Almshouse  it  has  as  healthful  a  location  as  can  be 
found  in  the  State.  It  receives  only  boys,  who  are 
regularly  taught  by  competent  teachers,  and  em- 
IDloyed  in  various  indoor  occupations  or  out-door 
work.  Present  number  of  inmates,  two  hundred  and 
twelve.  The  order  and  discipHne  of  this  school 
well  repay  a  visit.     Jno.  C.  Pelton,  Superintendent. 

ExGEs'E  Houses. — In  early  days,  before  the  estab- 
lishment of  homes,  the  pioneer  firemen  seemed  to  love 
theii*  machine  veiy  much  as  the  sailor  loves  his  ship. 
They  built  elegant  and  costly  engine  houses,  which 
became  to  many  of  them  the  only  homes  they  ever 
knew.  Since  the  introduction  of  the  improved 
steam  fire  engines,  and  the  organization  of  the  paid 
fire  department,  the  glory  of  the  old  volunteer  or- 
ganizations has  well  nigh  departed.  But  their 
houses  yet  remain,  some  of  them  converted  to  other 
uses,  while  others  still  retain  much  of  their  earlier 
attractiveness. 

Eight  first-class  steamers,  of  the  Amoskeag  make, 
weighing  from  three  to  four  tons  each,  throwing 
four  hundred  gallons  a  minute,  each  costing  from 
four  to  five  thousand  dollars  in  gold  coin,  and 
manned  by  twelve  men,  make  up  the  present  i^aid 
fire  department.     At  a  public  trial  a  week  since, 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  153 

New  York  and  Philadelphia  witnesses  voluntarily 
and  unanimously  testified  that  they  had  never  seeii 
machines  reach  the  spot  as  soon  and  get  a  stream 
upon  the  flames  as  quickly,  as  did  the  machines  of 
our  fire  department.  This  fact  may  conduce  to  the 
sense  of  security  with  which  the  eastern  tourist  lies 
down  to  sleep  in  his  strange  bed.  For  the  benefit 
of  any  extra  nervous  gentleman,  we  may  add  the 
universal  rule  of  conduct  in  regard  to  midnight 
alarms  of  fire  among  us,  is  this  :  When  waked  by 
a  fire-alarm,  place  your  hand  against  the  nearest 
wall.  If  it  feels  cold,  lie  still ;  if  moderately  warm, 
order  a  different  room  at  once ;  if  positively  hot, 
leave  for  another  hotel  immediately. 

CORPORATION  AND  SOCIETY  BUILDINGS. 

The  Pioneer's  Building. — A  finely  proportioned 
building-  on  the  corner  of  Gold  and  Montgomery 
streets,  above  Jackson.  This  building  is  not  as  note- 
worthy as  the  society  which  built  and  chiefly  oc- 
cupies it.  The  famous  "  Society  of  California 
Pioneers"  was  formed  in  August,  1850.  Its  con- 
stitution declares  its  object  to  be: 

"To  cultivate  the  social  virtues  of  its  members  ; 

"  To  collect  and  preserve  information  connected 
with  the  early  settlement  of  the  country;   and 

"To  perpetuate  the  memory  of  those  whose 
sagacity,  energy  and  love  of  independence  induced 
them  to  settle  in  the  wilderness  and  become  the 
germs  of  a  new  State." 


154  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

It  includes  three  classes:  1st.  Native  Cali- 
fornians;  foreigners  living  in  California  before  the 
American  conquest;  and  citizens  of  the  United 
States  who  became  actual  residents  here  before 
January  1st,  1849 — with  the  male  descendants  of 
these. 

2d.  Citizens  of  the  United  States  who  became 
actual  residents  of  California  before  Januaiy  1st, 
1850,  and  their  male  descendants.  . 

3d.  Honoraiy  members  admitted  according  to 
the  by-laws.  The  society  has  enrolled  over  1,300 
members.  Its  historical  library  and  museum  well 
repay  a  visit.     Charles  D.  Carter,  President. 

Merchant's  Exchange. — This  building,  the  com- 
mercial headquarters  of  the  mercantile  aiTQy  of  the 
Pacific,  stands  on  the  south  side  of  California  street, 
between  Montgomeiy  and  Sansome.  It  ranks 
among  the  largest  and  finest  architectural  orna- 
ments of  the  city. 

Bank  of  C-\lifoex[a. — Northwest  corner  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Sansome.  This  elegant  stone  stnicture 
is  not  remarkable  for  size;  but  for  broad  and  deep 
foundations,  slow  and  strong  consti-uction,  harmo- 
nious proportions,  convenient  aiTangements  and 
admirable  finish  mthin  and  without,  it  ranks 
among  the  finest  and  most  costly  business  build- 
ings in  the  Union.  President,  D.  O.  Mills. 
Cashier,  William  C.  Ealston. 

Mercantile  Libkart  Buildino. — North  side  of  Bush 


SAJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  155 

street,  between  Montgomery  and  Sansome,  This  is 
the  building  for  which  the  great  lottery  paid.  It 
presents  a  noble  front,  a  finely  finished  interior, 
with  library  room  containing  over  30,000  volumes, 
reading  room,  magazine  room,  reference  room, 
chess  room,  with  a  large  ladies'  room  of  remarkably 
costly  and  tasteful  furnishing.  The  hall  in  the 
basement,  has  already  been  noticed.  Ogden  Hoff-. 
man.  President;  Alfred  Stebbins,  Librarian. 

Mechanics'  Institute  Building. — South  side  of 
Post  street,  just  below  Kearny.  A  well-propor- 
tioned, substantially  built,  sensible-looking  build- 
ing, and  so  far  truthfully  indicative  of  the  health- 
ful prosperity  of  the  excellent  organization  which 
owns  and  occupies  it.  A  library  of  nearly  20,000 
volumes,  including  many  rare  and  costly  scientific 
works,  a  large  and  well-stocked  reading  room,  a 
sort  of  museum,  including  mineralogical  cabinets, 
mechanical  models,  scientific  apparatus  and  works 
of  art,  with  a  popular  business  college,  occupy 
this  valuable  building.  The  commodious  hall  upon 
the  lower  floor,  has  been  previously  described. 

Mechanics'  Pavilion. — Union  Square,  between 
Geary  and  Post  streets  on  the  south  and  north, 
and  Stockton  and  Powell  streets  on  the  east  and 
west.  One  of  the  largest,  if  not  the  largest,  wooden 
buildings  now  standing  in  America,  covering  two 
and  one  half  acres  of  ground;  originally  erected 
by  the   Mechanics'   Institute  Association,   for  the 


156  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

accommodation  of  their  biennial  fail's,  and  found 
almost  indisjDensably  convenient  for  all  grander 
gatherings;  it  has  since  been  retained,  and  success- 
ively occupied  by  fairs,  grand  masquerade  balls, 
velocipede  schools  and  skating  rinks.  The  most 
notable  event  occurring  under  its  mammoth  roof 
was  the  Grand  Musical  Festival  or  Gift  Concert,  in 
aid  of  the  Mercantile  Libraiy  Association,  given 
under  the  lead  of  Madame  Camilla  Urso.  After 
the  approaching  Mechanics'  Fair,  to  be  held  this 
summer,  the  building  is  to  be  removed. 

Masonic  Temple. — Upon  the  west  side  of  Mont- 
gomery, at  the  comer  of  Post;  of  peculiar  and  at- 
tractive architecture,  imposing  proportions  and 
elegant  finish,  it  justly  ranks  among  the  most 
prominent  buildings  of  the  city. 

Odd  Fellows'  Hall. — Montgomery  street,  be- 
tween Pine  and  California.  Not  particularly  im- 
posing from  without,  but  attractive  from  the  unity, 
strength  and  benificence  of  the  Order  which  it 
represents.  Within  are  a  libraiy  of  nearly  20,000 
standard  and  j)opular  volumes,  a  well-supplied 
reading-room,  and  a  well-managed  savings'  bank. 

Y.  M.  C.  A. — This  quartette  of  initials  has  now 
become  so  well  known  throughout  the  larger  cities  of 
the  Union,  that  the  visitor  in  any  large  city  is  dis- 
appointed if  he  does  not  find  the  local  habitation  of 
this  fast-sj)reading  bond  of  unity  among  all  good 
men.    Here,  upon  Sutter  street,  just  above  Kearny, 


SA.V  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  157 

he  will  be  agreeabl}^  disappointed  to  discover  a 
large,  new,  stone-front  building,  unique  in  design, 
and  most  pleasing  in  its  general  effect.  Within  are 
library,  reading-rooms,  hall,  gymnasium,  and 
several  convenient  lodging-rooms.  Chas.  Goodall, 
President;  H.  L.  Chamberlain,  Librarian.     . 

Business  Buildings  and  Blocks. 

Alta  California  Building — On  the  south  side  of 
California  street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny. 
Its  comparatively  great  height,  as  related  to  its 
width,  give  it  a  somewhat  monumental  appearance, 
not  inai3propriate,  however,  when  we  remember  that 
the  whole  tasteful  structure  stands  as  the  monu- 
ment of  the  enterprise,  energy,  perseverance  and 
success  of  the  oldest  and  largest  paper  published 
in  the  State.  Fred.  MacCrellish  &  Co.,  proprie- 
tors. 

Bancroft's — South  side  of  Market  street,  between 
Third  and  Fourth.  Few  business  buildings  upon 
the  continent  combine  the  colossal  proportions  with 
the  graceful  details  of  this  mammoth  house  of  the 
oldest  and  largest  publishing  firm  upon  the  coast. 

DoNOHOE,  Kelly  &  Co.'s  Building — Upon  the 
southeast  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Sacramento 
streets,  deserves  mention  among  the  finest  business 
buildings. 

Harpending's  Block — On  the  south  side  of  Mar- 
ket street,  between  First  and  Second;  the  longest 


158  BANCROFT'S-  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

and  loftiest  business  front  presented  by  any  single 
business  block  in  the  city. 

Murphy,  Grant  &  Go's.  Building — Northeast 
corner  of  Bush  and  Sansome.  A  large  and  hand- 
some building,  as  strong  as  iron,  stone  and  brick 
can  make  it. 

ToBiN,  Dixon  &  Davisson's  Building — Northwest 
corner  of  Sansome  and  Sutter,  can  hardly  be 
omitted  from  the  inspection  of  our  finest  business 
houses. 

Tread  well's  Agricultural  Warehouse  —  South 
side  of  Market  street,  opposite  Front.  Not  lofty, 
but  broad;  not  imposing,  but  extensive. 

Tucker's  —  Northwest  corner  of  Montgomeiy 
and  Sutter.  Lofty,  finely -j^roportioned,  monu- 
mental, and  substantial;  surmounted  by  a  clock- 
tower,  which  has  become  one  of  the  landmarks  of 
the  city.  The  main  salesroom  within  is  beautifully 
frescoed  and  fitted  throughout  with  extreme  ele- 
gance and  at  great  cost. 

The  White  House — Comer  of  Kearny  and  Post 
streets.  An  elegant  new  ii'on  and  brick  structure, 
light,  airy  and  ornamental  in  its  general  efiect. 
Beceives  -its  name  from  its  color,  which  has  hitherto 
been  an  uncommon  one  in  this  city,  but  is  daily 
becoming  less  so.  Occupied  chiefly  by  the  leading 
dry  goods  firm  of  J.  W.  Davidson  &  Co. 

Wells,  Fargo  &  Co's.  Building  —  Corner  of 
California  and  Montgomery  streets.   Who  does  not 


SA.V  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY, 


t59 


know  it  ?  Solid  granite  blocks,  dressed  in  China, 
brought  hither  in  ships,  and  piled  in  stern  sim- 
plicity upon  that  central  corner  to  outstand  all 
earthquake  shocks,  and  survive  all  business  wrecks. 
A  pioneer  building  which  has  already  become  far 
too  small  for  its  immense  business,  but  ought  never 
to  be  taken  down  until  the  whole  city  goes  with  it. 

Manufactories. 

Kimball  Car  and  Carriage  FACTORY.—Corner  of 
Bryant  and  Fourth  streets.  Eastern  visitors  call 
this  the  largest  establishment  of  the  kind  in  America. 
In  .immense  extent,  convenient  arrangement,  and 
comprehensiveness  of  scope,  it  can  hardly  be  sur- 
passed. Its  latest  triumph  is  the  construction  of  a 
magnificent  Palace  Car,  built  wholly  of  California 
woods,  undisguised  by  paint,  carving,  gilding,  or 
varnish — the  most  complete  and  superb  palace 
on  wheels  ever  built.  Thirty-five  different  woods 
enter  into  its  construction,  displaying  a  variety  of 
structure  and  a  range  of  harmonious  tints  hardly 
imaginable  by  those  who  have  seen  only  the  poor 
imitations  of  feeble  art.  The  car  is  a  triumph  of 
taste  and  skill,  and  is  worth  a  half-day's  time  of 
any  tourist  simply  to  study  and  enjoy  it.  It  has 
been  proposed  that  the  merchants  of  this  city  buy 
it,  and  present  it  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States — to  the  office^  not  the  incumbent — to  be  kept 
at  Washington,  and  used  as  the  official  car  for  all 


i6o  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Presidential  tours.  A  better  idea  could  hardly  be 
suggested.     May  the  motion  prevail  ! 

The  Pacific  Rolling  Mills  stand  upon  the 
point  of  the  Potrero.  They  include  all  the  massive 
machinery  of  their  ponderous  business,  and  turn 
out  heavy  castings,  forgings,  and  railroad  iron  by 
hundreds  of  tons  daily. 

The  Mission  Woolen  Mills — Folsom  street,  cor- 
ner  of  Sixteenth.  Here  are  made  those  wonderful 
blankets  of  such  marvelous  fineness  and  thickness, 
which  have  attracted  so  much  attention,  and  re- 
ceived even  the  World's  Fair  premium  abroad. 

Foundries  and  Iron  Works. 

Union  Iron  Works. — The  oldest  and  largest  in 
California,  emplopng  three  hundred  and  thirty 
men,  and  turning  out  the  heaviest  and  most  perfect 
mining  and  railroad  machinery,  locomotives,  etc. 
Located  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Mission  and 
First  streets.     H.  J.  Booth  &  Co. 

KisDON  Iron  and  Locomotive  Works,  southeast 
corner  of  Howard  and  Beale  streets.  Has  all 
the  latest  mechanical  improvements  of  the  business. 
Can  turn  out  a  shaft  forty-eight  feet  long,  and 
weighing  thirty  tons.  It  employs  two  hundi'ed  and 
seventy-five  hands.     John  N.  Eisdon,  president. 

The  Fulton,  Miners',  and  Pacific  Foundries,  with 
the  Etna  and  Vulcan  Iron  Works,  are  the  other 
leading  ones  of  the  coast. 


SA.V  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  i6i 

Shot  To^wer  and  Lead  Works. 

Corner  of  Howard  and  First  streets.  The  pioneer 

and,  thus  far,  the  only  works  upon  the  coast.     The 

tower  is   one  of  the  most  prominent  and  sightly 

objects  visible  in  all   the  water  approaches  to  the 

city. 

Sugar  Refineries. 

The  city  has  four:  The  San  Francisco  and  Paci- 
fic, Bay,  California,  and  Golden  Gate,  turning 
out  twenty  thousand  tons  of  sugar  annually. 

Ship   Yards. 

At  North  Beach  and  at  the  Potrero  are  the  prin- 
cipal yards.  They  build  mainly  river  steamers  or 
ferry  boats,  or  smaller  ocean  craft,  rarely  construct- 
ing anything  above  three  hundred  tons.  For 
larger  craft  it  is  cheaper  to  go  north,  where 
immense  forests  of  the  finest  ship-timber  run  clear 
down  to  the  ocean  beach,  and  stand  asking  to  be 
built  into  ships. 

Glass   Works. 

Two :  one  in  the  city,  on  the  south  side  of  Town- 
send,  between  Third  and  Fourth;  and  the  other, 
the  Pacific  Glass  works,  on  the  Potrero,  at  the 
corner  of  Iowa  and  Mariposa  streets.  These  con- 
fine their  works  chiefly  to  bottles,  telegraph  caps, 
etc.    . 

Churches. 

Baptist. — This  prominent  denomination  has  six 


i62  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

_ 

cliurcli  buildings  in  the  city.  The  First  Baptist 
Church  claims  special  space  from  the  fact  that  it 
was  the  first  Protestant  house  of  worship  dedicated 
in  California.  This  Avas  in  August,  1849.  The 
present  building  of  stuccoed  brick,  occupies  the 
original  site  of  the  first  small,  wooden  pioneer 
church — on  the  north  side  of  Washington  street, 
between  Stockton  and  Dupont.  Rev.  A.  R.  Med- 
bury.  Pastor. 

CoNGEEGATiONAL.  —  This  denomination  has  the 
honor  of  ha\ang  furnished  the  first  settled  Protest- 
ant chaplain  in  San  Francisco,  Rev.  T.  Dwight 
Hunt.  He  held  the  rare  position  of  "Citizens' 
Chaplain,"  Nov.  1st,  1848,  conducting  Divine  wor- 
ship) every  Sunday  in  the  "  Public  Institute,"  (the 
school-house)  on  Portsmouth  Square — the  Plaza. 
The  citizens  unitedly  invited  him  from  Honolulu, 
and  paid  him  $2,500  a  year.  The  denomination 
has  four  chui'ch  buildings-  -named  by  their  order 
of  erection.  The  First  Congregational  Church  is 
on  the  southwest  corner  of  CaHfornia  and  Duj)ont 
streets.  The  pastor  is  Rev.  Dr.  Stone,  formerly  of 
the  Park  street  church,  Boston. 

Episcopal. — This  denomination  has  five  church 
buildings,  of  which  Grace  Church,  corner  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Stockton  streets,  is  the  oldest  and  larg- 
est. The  building  is  135  feet  long,  62  feet  wide 
and  &Q  feet  high.  Its  great  size  and  sightly  location 
make   it   one  of   the  prominent  buildings  in   any 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  163 

• 

general  view  of  the  city.  Kev.  James  S.  Bush, 
Rector.  The  four  other  Episcopal  church  build- 
ings are — Trinity,  St.  John's,  Cburch  of  the  Advent, 
and  St.  Luke's. 

Hebrew.  —  Synagogue  of  the  Congregation 
Emanu-el,  Sutter  street,  between  Stockton  and 
Powell.  Of  the  five  Jewish  congregations,  this  has 
"  The  Synagogue"  par  excellence — the  one  always 
meant  when  one  speaks  of  "  The  Jewish  Syna- 
gogue." It  is  an  elegant  and  costly  structure,  built 
of  brick,  not  yet  stuccoed,  supporting  two  promi- 
nent towers,  and  finished  within  in  most  approx)ri- 
ate  and  artistic  style.  Total  cost,  including  lot, 
$185,000,  gold  coin. 

Methodist. — This  popular,  powerful  and  rapidly 
growing  denomination  has  already  erected  eleven 
church  buildings  in  San  Francisco — more  than  any 
other  Protestant  Church,  except  the  Presbyterians. 
Its  newest  and  most  elegant  church  is  the  First 
Methodist  Ej)iscopal  Church,  on  the  west  side  of 
Powell,  between  Washington  and  Jackson.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  really  artistic 
churches i  within  and  without,  any  where  to  be 
found.     Rev.  Dr.  Cox,  Pastor. 

Howard  Street  M.  E.  Church. — South  side  of 
Howard,  between  Second  and  Third.  This  is  the 
most  substantial  and  valuable  building  owned  by 
the  denomination.     Value,  including  lot  and  par- 


i64  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

. _ __ — ^ 

sonage,  $100,000.  Its  style  is  medieval  gothic. 
Pastor,  Rev.  L,  Walker. 

Presbyterian. — This  recently  united  denomina- 
tion, no  longer  old  and  new  school,  lias  also  eleven 
churcli  buildings;  of  these  the  two  most  noted  are 
the  Calvary  Presbyterian  Church,  corner  of 
Geary  and  Powell  street-s.  This  church  is  as  capa- 
cious and  comfortable,  even  luxurious  within,  as  the 
most  fastidious  could  desire.  Its  organ  is  the 
largest  and  finest  on  the  coast.  Eev.  J.  Hemj)hill, 
Pastor. 

Howard  Presbyterian  Church,  Mission  street, 
near  Thii'd;  lately,  Eev.  Dr.  Scudder's.  This 
building,  with  a  plain  and  unpretentious  ex- 
terior, has  greater  seating  capacity  than  any  other 
Protestant  church  in  the  city.  It  is  of  recent  con- 
struction and  very  convenient  internal  arrange- 
ments.    Temporary  pastor.   Rev.    J.   K.   Kendall. 

First  Presbyterian  Church — On  the  west  side  of 
Stockton,  between  Washington  and  Clay.  This 
gothic  building  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest — 
but  its  chief  claim  to  notice  here,  rests  upon  the 
fact  that  the  church  which  built  it,  organized  May 
20th,  1849,  under  the  direction  of  the  Rev.  Albert 
Williams,  was  the  first  Protestant  church  organized 
in  San  Francisco. 

Roman  Catholic. — St.  Patrick's  Church,  on  the 
north  side  of  Mission,  between  Third  and  Fourth 
streets.    Although  so  new   that  it  is  not  yet  fin- 


•SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  165 

ishecl,  this  church  is  set  first,  because  it  is  the 
largest  in  the  State,  being  one  hundred  and  sixty 
feet  long  by  eighty  feet  wide.  Its  spire  is  the 
loftiest  and  most  beautifully  proportioned  in  the 
city,  height  240  feet.     Rev.  Peter  J.  Grey,  Pastor. 

St.  Mary's  Cathedral,  California  street,  at  the 
northeast  corner  of  Dupont.  In  age,  cost  and  rank 
this  building  is  entitled  to  the  first  place.  It  is  a 
noble  structure  of  Gothic  architecture,  which  has 
been  carried  out  in  every  detail.  The  front  extends 
seventy- five  feet  on  California  street,  from  which 
the  cathedral  runs  back  one  hundred  and  thii-ty-one 
feet  on  Dupont.  The  tower  is  at  present  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty -five  feet  high,  and  is  to  be  sur- 
mounted by  a  spire  rising  sixty-five  feet  further. 
The  Most  Rev.  Joseph  S.  Alemany  is  the  Arch_ 
bishop. 

Old  Mission  Church,  on  the  southwest  corner  of 
Sixteenth  and  Dolores  streets.  This  was  dedicated 
Oct.  9,  1776,  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  the  father 
of  the  California  missions.  Aside  from  its  age  and 
associations,  the  building  is  of  little  note.  It  is 
built  of  the  old  adobes,  which  were  simply  unburnt 
bricks  dried  in  the  sun,  and  formed  a  favorite  build- 
ing material  with  the  early  Spanish  and  Mexican 
inhabitants.  The  old  custom-house,  on  Portsmouth 
square,  was  built  of  this  material.  The  roof  was 
covered  with  semi-cylindrical  tiles  of  burnt  clay, 
laid  in  alternate  rows,  the  first  one  having  the  con- 


iG6  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE.* 

caTe  side  up,  and  tlie  next  its  convex  side  up.  The 
outside,  generally,  is  very  plain,  though  the  front 
shows  some  old-fashioned  round  columns,  and  a 
few  small  bells  sus^^endedin  square  apertures  under 
the  projecting  roof.  The  interior  is  dark,  cold  and 
comfortless.     Rev.  Thos.  Gushing,  Pastor. 

Besides  the  three  churches  already  named,  the 
Catholics  have  nine  others  in  the  city,  in  addition 
to  five  or  six  chapels  and  asylums. 

SwEDENBOEGiAN. — First  Ncw  Jerusalem  Church. 
This  is  a  very  neat  Gothic  building,  on  the  north 
side  of  OTarrell,  between  Mason  and  Taylor 
streets.     Eev.  John  Doughty,  Pastor. 

A  second  New  Jerusalem  Church,  of  which  Rev. 
Joseph  Worcester  is  pastor,  having  yet  erected  no 
building,  meets  in  the  Druids'  Hall,  No.  413  Sutter 
street. 

Unitarian. — First  Unitarian  Church.  This  most 
beautiful  church  edifice  stands  upon  the  south  side 
of  Geary  street,  just  below  Stockton.  Its  front  pre- 
sents, unquestionably,  the  finest  sj)ecimen  of  church 
architecture  in  the  State,  and  can  hardly  be  sur- 
passed in  America.  The  interior  is  tastefully  deco- 
rated with  a  colored  fresco  of  extreme  beauty,  and 
most  artistic  harmony  of  tint.  The  organ,  bajD- 
tismal  font,  and  the  23ulj)it,  perpetuate  the  unique 
taste  of  the  lamented  pastor,  whose  loved  name  the 
public  mind  cannot  dissociate  from  the  beautiful 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  167 

building,  whicli,  always  known  as  "  Starr  King's" 
cliurcli,  has  become  his  fitting  monument. 

This  is  the  only  church  building  of  this  denom- 
ination in  the  city  or  the  State. 

Chinese  Mission  House. — This  is  a  combination 
church  and  school-house,  new,  neat  and  commo- 
dious, fifty-six  feet  by  seventy  feet,  and  three  stories 
high.  Adjoining  school-rooms,  readily  thrown 
into  one,  rooms  for  the  Superintendent,  Eey.  Mr. 
Gibson  and  family,  and  for  his  assistant,  Kev.  Hu 
Sing  Me,  the  native  j)reacher,  and  his  family,  occu- 
py the  various  floors.  School  "keeps"  every  even- 
ing in  the  week,  except  Saturday  and  Sunday. 
Bible  class  at  half-past  ten  every  Sunday  morning, 
and  Sunday  school  at  seven  p.  m. 

The  entire  property  belongs  ta  the  Methodist 
Church,  who  maintain  it  as  a  most  efficient  home 
mission. 

The  Mariner's  Chu^xjh,  northeast  corner  of  Sacra- 
mento and  Drumm  streets.  It  is  a  neat  and  com- 
modious wooden  building,  erected  in  1867,  by 
contiibutions  from  merchants  and  other  citizens  of 
San  Francisco.     Rev.  J.  Rowell,  Pastor. 

Hospitals  and  Asylums. 

City  and  County  Hospital, — Stands  upon  the 
southwest  corner  of  Stockton  and  Francisco  streets. 

FiiENCH  Benevolent  Society. — Has  one  of  the 
finest  hospitals  of  the  State,  a  large  and  handsome 


i68  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

brick  building,  surrounded  witb  j)leasant  gardens  and 
ornamented  grounds,  occui^ying  the  whole  block  on 
the  south  side  of  Biyant,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth, 
making  a  most  agTeeable  and  healthful  home  for 
the  invalid.  Others  besides  French  may  receive 
its  benefits,  by  assuming  membership  and  j)aying  its 
moderate  dues. 

German  Genekai.  Benevolent  Society. — Admits 
only  Germans.  It  has  over  eighteen  hundred 
members.  On  Brannan  street,  near  Third,  this 
society  has  a  verj^  large  two-story  brick  building 
with  basement — furnished  with  eveiy  fonn  of  bath, 
and  looking  out  upon  fine  gardens  and  shrubbeiy. 

Protestant  Orphan  Asylum. — On  the  West  side  of 
Laguna-  street,  between  Haight  and  Waller.  A 
large  and  ^egant  building  of  brick  and  stone — 
one  of  the  ornamental  landmarks  of  that  part  of 
the  city.  It  accommodates  two  hundred  and  fifty 
little  ones.  Mrs.  Ii'a  P.  Eankin,  President;  Mrs. 
Lucy  Stewart,  Matron. 

Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum. — Market  street, 
south  side,  between  New  Montgomery  and  Third. 
A  noble  and  cajDacious  brick  building  accommo- 
dating three  hundred  and  twenty  children, 
and  having  a  school  of  five  hundred  and  fifty 
day  scholars  attached.  The  Asylum  is  under  the 
sole  management  of  Archbishop  Alemany  and  the 
Sisters  of  Charity. 

San  Francisco  Female  Hospital. — Comer  of  Clay 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  169 

street  and  Prospect  Place.  Any  woman  who  is 
sick  and  poor,  has  a  right  to  its  benefits.  It  is 
a  genuine  charity,  regarding  neither  nativity,  relig- 
ion nor  social  rank.  Mrs.  M.  E.  Eoberts,  Presi- 
dent; Dr.  C.  T.  Deane,  Physician. 

Ladies'  Protection  and  Relief  Society. — Frank- 
lin street,  between  Post  and  Geary.  The  main 
object  6f  the  society  is  to  furnish  a  real  Home  for 
friendless  or  destitute  gii'ls,  between  three  and  four- 
teen years  old.  Boys,  under  ten  and  over  three, 
may  be  received .  and  provided  for  until  furnished 
with  a  permanent  home  in  a  christian  family.  It 
has  over  two  hundred  inmates,  nearly  all  girls. 
Miss  C.  A.  Harmon,  Matron. 

Nearly  a  hundred  other  public  and  private 
benevolent  societies  attempt  to  make  up,  as  well  as 
possible,  the  lack  of  friends  and  homes,  always  so 
severely  felt  by  strangers  or  temporary  residents  in 
any  large  city,  and  especially  so  in  one  of  as  cos- 
%  mopolitan  a  character  as  ours. 

Colleges. 

Besides  the  larger  public  schools,  which  are 
really  the  peoples'  colleges — the  city  has  sixty-five 
colleges  and  private  schools.  The  number  of 
pupils  attending  them  in  1870  was  4,582,  against 
21,000  in  the  public  schools. 

City  College. — Southeast  corner  of  Stockton 
and  Geary  streets.     This  institution  has  built  and 


170  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

furnislied  an  elegant  French  GotMc  building  at 
University  Mound,  some  three  miles  southwest 
of  the  city,  which  it  will  occui)^^  early  in  '72.  Be- 
sides the  usual  studies,  this  college  especially  pro- 
vides the  best  facilities  for  obtaining  a  thorough 
practical  knowledge  of  Chemistry,  in  all  its  ap- 
plications to  assaying,  mining,  medical  manufac- 
tures and  mechanics.     Rev.  Dr.  Veeder,  President. 

Heald's  Business  College. — College  Building, 
Post  street,  between  Montgomeiy  and  Kearny. 
Its  design  is  to  educate  bo3-s  and  young  men,  with 
a  special  view  to  practical  business.  It  is  one  of 
the  famous  thirty-six  Brj^ant  and  Stratton  Business 
Colleges,  located  in  the  leading  cities  of  the  United 
States  and  Canada.  Students,  two  hundred  and 
fifty.     E.  P.  Heald,  President. 

St.  Ignatius'  College. — -Occupies  the  noble  brick 
building  on  the  south  side  of  Market  street,  be- 
tween Fourth  and  Fifth.  It  is  largely  attended, 
and  is  successfully  conducted  by  the  Jesuit 
Fathers. 

St.  Maky's  College. — On  the  old  county  road  to 
San  Jose,  four  and  a  half  miles  southwest  of  the 
city.  Building,  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  front, 
by  fifty  feet  deep — of  excellent  proportion  and 
fine  appearance.  Conducted  by  the  Christian 
Brothers.     B.  Justin,  President. 

ToLAND  Medical  College. — East  side  of  Stock- 
ton street,  between  Chestnut  and  Francisco.     The 


% 


SAiV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY. 


171 


building  is  of  brick,  capacious,  commodious,  finely 
located  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  purpose  of 
its  construction.     H.  H.  Toland,  M.  D.,  President. 

Public  School  Buildings. 

Lincoln. — Fifth  street — soutli  side,  near  Market. 
Brick  structure,  four  stories  liigii,  141J  feet  long, 
63 J  feet  wide;  20  class-rooms  129x34  feet,  besides 
eiglit  wardrobes  and  teachers'  rooms — wide  halls, 
and  four  broad  stairways  the  whole  height,  with  a 
large  hall  in  the  upj^er  story.  It  accommodates 
twelve  hundred  grammar  grade  pupils,  all  boys. 
In  front  stands  a  finel}^  modeled  statue  of  Abraham 
Lincoln  for  whom  the  building  was  named.  Cost, 
$100,000,  gold  coin.     B.  Marks,  Principal. 

Denman. — Bush  street,  north  side,  corner  of 
Tajdor.  Brick  stuccoed;  length,  98J  feet;  width, 
68  feet;  height,  four  stories,  including  attic  rooms. 
Fourteen  class-rooms,  each  28x34,  accommo- 
dating eight  hundred  pupils,  all  girls.  Cost, 
$78,000,  gold.  This  building  was  named  in  honor 
of  James  Denman,  one  of  the  pioneer  public  school 
teachers  of  the  city^ — the  founder  of  this  school  and 
for  many  years,  as  at  present,  its  j)rincij)al.  Few 
cities  in  the  Union  can  show  school  buildings  as 
elegant,  convenient,  substantial  and  costly  as  these 
two  noble  monuments  of  public  ap}Dreciation  of, 
and  liberality  towards,  the  system  which  must 
underlie  and  sustain  our  free  government  if  it  is 
to  stand  at  all. 


172  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Tehama. — Teliama  street,  near  First.  Brick,  un- 
disguised; 111  feet  long,  75  feet  deep,  three  stories 
high,  besides  spacious  basement  play-rooms — has 
sixteen  class-rooms,  each  24x31,  hall,  41x49,  with 
ample  stairings,  and  convenient  teacher's-rooms 
and  amj^le  yards.  Cost,  $28,300,  gold.  It  accom- 
modates one  thousand  primary  pupils  of  both  sexes. 
Mrs.  E.  A.  Wood,  Principal. 

Besides  these,  the  city  has  several  large  and  fine 
wooden  school-houses  of  modern  structure.  Of 
these  the  most  sightly,  is  the  Girls'  High  School, 
south  side  of  Bush  street,  near  Stockton — 57x92, 
three  stories,  ten  class-rooms,  27x34,  with  an  as- 
sembly hall,  54x55;  whose  length  can  be  increased 
to  90  feet,  by  opening  folding  doors  between  it 
and  two  adjoining  class-rooms.  It  is  the  most  con- 
veniently arranged,  best  ventilated,  sunniest,  most 
cheerful  and  healthful  school-house  in  the  State. 
Ellis  H.  Holmes,  Principal.  To  these  the  De- 
partment has  recently  added,  and  is  now  adding, 
four  or  five  18  class-room  Jjuildings,  of  wood, 
each  accommodating  one  thousand  pupils,  now 
occupying  the  old  and  small  school-rooms  of  early 
days  or  hived  in  unsuitable  rented  rooms. 

Bancroft's  Book  and  Stationery  Establishment. 

It  may  appear  like  exaggeration  to  say  that  San 
Francisco  contains  the  largest  and  most  complete 
general  Book  and  Stationery,  mercantile  and  manu- 


% 


SAN  FRAA  CISCO  AND   VICINITY.  173 

facturing  business  in  the  world.  Yet,  such  is  the 
fact.  Not  that  the  business,  by  any  means,  equals 
that  of  Harpers'  and  Appletons',  of  New  York,  Hach- 
ette  of  Paris,  or  the  stationers  of  London.  But, 
between  these  houses  and  Bancroft's,  there  is  no 
comparison.  The  character  of  their  trade  is  totally 
different.  One  publishes  books,  another  manufac- 
tures paper,  and  so  each  is  large  in  one  thing, 
whereas  the  Bancrofts,  collecting  from  the  manu- 
facturers of  all  the  world,  and  manufacturing  ac- 
cording to  the  requirements  of  their  trade,  cover 
under  one  management  the  ground  occupied  by  all 
others  combined.  In  older  and  larger  cities,  one 
house  deals  in  law 'books  alone;  another,  school 
books,  etc.,  while  this  San  Francisco  house — besides 
a  full  stock  of  books  in  every  department  of  litera- 
ture, and  stationery  from  the  manufacturers  of  Eu- 
rope and  America,  paper  from  the  mills  of  New 
England,  pencils  from  Germany,  pen-holders  from 
Paris — unite  Printing,  Book-binding,  Lithography, 
Blank-Book  Making,  Engraving,  &c.,  every  thing, 
in  short,  comprised  in  all  the  business  of  all  the 
others. 

The  detail  is  necessarily  very  great.  They  buy 
from  a  thousand  sellers,  and  sell  to  many  thousand 
buyers.  Over  one  hundred  employes,  divided  into 
nine  departments,  each  under  an  experienced  man- 
ager, ply  their  vocation  like  bees  in  a  hive  of  six 
rooms,  each  37  by  170  feet.     To  the  latest  improve- 


174  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

ments  of  the  finest  macliineiy,  clriYen  by  steam,  ap- 
ply tlie  highest  order  of  sMlled  labor,  and  San 
Francisco  can  do  anything  as  well  and  as  cheaply 
as  N-ew  York,  London  or  Paris. 

The  retail  department,  occupying  the  first  floor, 
has  the  most  magnificent  salesroom  on  the  Pacific 
coast.  Visitors  are  warmly  welcomed,  and  stran- 
gers politely  shown  through  the  premises. 

Private  Residences. 

For  the  convenience  of  the  touiist,  who  may  want 
to  see  the  homes  of  our  city  as  well  as  her  public 
buildings  and  business  blocks,  we  mention  the 
locality  of  the  following,  wlach  are  among  the 
finest  of  our  private  dwellings:  Erwin  Da^is, 
southwest  comer  of  California  and  Powell  streets; 
Milton  S.  .Latham,  Folsom  street,  opposite  Haw- 
thorne, on  Rincon  Hill;  D.  J.  Tallant,  corner  of 
Bush  and  ifonee^  street;  Richard  Tobin,  corner  of 
California  and  Taylor  Streets;  John  Parrott,  620 
Folsom  street.  By  making  two  trips — first,  over 
California  street,  and  retmiiing  by  Sutter  or  Bush 
street;  second,  over  Rincon  Hill  on  Folsom  street, 
and  retui-ning  by  Hamson,  the  visitor  may  see  the 
finest  of  our  private  residences. 

Points  of  Observation. 

Telegraph  Hlll. — This  notable  natural  landmark 
stands  at   the   head,  that  is,  at  the  north  end  of 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  175 

Montgomery  street.  The  early  settlement,  the 
pioneer  hamlet  from  which,  the  present  city  has 
grown,  was  made  in  the  hollow  near  the  southwest 
foot.  Civilization  has  encircled  it  on  the  land  side,  ^. 
and  crept  two  thirds  the  way  up,  while  com- 
merce has  claimed  the  water  front  along  its  oppo- 
site base — but  the  summit  still  stands  as  free  as 
when  the  priestly  fathers  first  looked  thence  upon 
the  glorious  inland  sea,  which  flashes  between  it 
and  the  sunrise.  Let  us  climb  it — this  way,  straight 
uj)  the  Montgomery  street  sidewalk.  Slowly, 
please;  we  have  the  day  before  us;  exhausted  lungs 
impair  one's  sight.  Stop  at  the  corner  of  each 
intersecting  street,  and  glance  either  way,  but  es- 
pecially eastward — that  is,  downward  toward  the 
Bay.  Now,  *' Excelsior,"  again;  up  these  stairs; 
now  along  this  natural  surface — no  as^Dhaltum 
walks  or  Stow  foundation  pavements  up  here  yet, 
you  see — on,  by  these  houses;  turn  to  the  left  here; 
now  to  the  right,  follow  this  winding  way;  patiently 
please — that's  it;  only  two  or  three  minutes  more 
— ah!  here  it  is — this  is  the  highest  point,  where 
the  old  observatory  stood'.  Sit  and  breathe  a  mo- 
ment; slip  oh  your  overcoat,  or  put  that  extra 
shawl  about  you;  it's  easy  to  take  cold  here,  far 
easier  than  to  rid  yourself  of  it  in  the  city  below. 
For  the  sake  of  method  in  our  survey,  we  may  as 
well  begin  at  the  northwest;  thence  "  swing  round 
the  circle,"  through  north,  east,  south  and  west, 
8 


'  176  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

and  return  to  the  point  of  starting.  Looking  nortti- 
westerlj^  then,  we  have  first  the  elevated,  undu- 
lating plateau,  which  stretches  along  the  flattened 

^  summits  of  the  northermost  spur  of  the  broad 
jDeninsular  hills,  and  terminates  in  the  precipitous 
bluff  known  as  Fort  Point — the  southern  gate-post 
of  the  far-famed  Golden  Gate.  Throug'h  this  we 
gaze  seaward  along  the  further  margin  of  the  strait, 
where  it  sends  in  a  surging  cove  upon  the  rocky 
beach,  between  Point  Diablo  and  Point  Bonita. 
The  projection  of  the  latter  point  shuts  off  the 
vision,  which  else  might  range  up  the  northwesterly 
trend  of  the  coast,  along  the  ocean-shore  of  Marin 
county  to  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  (King's  Point)  which 
projects  southward  between  Bolinas  bay  and  the 
ocean.     Between  Point  Diablo  and  Lime  Point,  a 

•  slight  northerly  curve,  in  the  shore  line  makes  a 
shallow  cove,  from  whose  edge  the  vision  climbs  the 
successive  hills  or  ridges  which  fill  the  ascending 
space  as  it  roughly  rises  toward  the  crowning  point 
of  Marin  county,  Mmint  Tamalpais,  two  thousand 
six  hundred  and  four  feet  nearer  heaven  than  the 
beach  line  whence  we  set  forth.  Still  following 
round,  we  look  up  into  Richardson's  Baj;;  next  the 
southwestern  end  of  Raccoon  Strait,  and  then 
Angel  Island.  We  are  now  looking  north.  Alca- 
traz,  the  rocky  island  which  nature  set  just  there  to 
support  a  commanding  •  fortress  ;  then,  an  eye- 
sweep  up  over  the  northern  pai-t  of  San  Francisco 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  177 

Bay  to  that  narrow  strait  whicli  joins  it  with  San 
Pablo  Bay;  northeast  the  San  Pablo  shore  of  Con- 
tra Costa  county,  and  the  hills  which  terminate  the 
Mount  Diablo  peninsular  range.  Nearer  east, 
the  strangely  monotonous  hills,  whose  ridges  and 
gullies  look  as  if  plowed  out  by  heavy  rains,  and 
rounded  by  sweeping  winds.  Grassy  or  earthy, 
they  look,  according  to  the  time  of  year  and  kind 
of  season.  Now,  almost  east,  the  vision  falls.  This 
large  island,  off  in  the  midst  of  the  bay,  is  Yerba 
Buena,  or  Goat  Island.  It  rises  three  hundred  and 
fort}^  feet  above  low  water  mark.  Nearly  in  a  line 
over  the  island  appears  Berkeley,  the  site  of  the 
University  of  California,  of  which  one  large  build- 
ing, already  two  thirds  raised,  you  may  possibly 
discern.  A  little  further  south — that  is,  to  the 
right,  you  can  j^lainly  see  the  State  Asylum  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind.  This  noble  building- 
crowns  a  gently-sloping  eminence  just  at  the  mar- 
gin betw.een  the  broad  and  nearly  level  plain  which 
stretches  between  it  and  the  bay,  and  the  foothills 
back  of  which  the  Contra  Costa  mountains  bring- 
up  the  rear. 

Almost  due  east  lies  Oakland,  the  tree-city  of 
the  beautiful  grove-dotted  plain.  Then  Clinton, 
San  Antonio,  Brooklyn  and  Alameda,  snuggled  in 
together  so  closely  that  one  can't  tell  "  which  is 
which;"  and,  as  far  as  the  beauty  of  the  view  is 
concerned,  it  doesn't  matter  either,  for  they  are  all 


178  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

fair  to  look  upon  and  IotgIt  to  behold.  The  clus- 
tering trees  shut  out  by  far  the  larger  portion  of 
the  houses,  so  that  we  might  hardly  susi^ect  the 
size  and  population  of  the  towns,  whose  scattered 
roofs  show  here  and  there  among  the  trees. 

We  are  loolang  southeasterly  now.  That  creek, 
whose  mouth  you  see  just  beyond  Alameda, 
leads  into  San  Leandro  bay;  and  right  over  it, 
nearly  hidden  by  intei-vening  trees,  lies  the  town  of 
the  same  name.  A  little  fui-ther  south,  and  too  dis- 
tant to  be  plainly  seen,  is  Hayward's.  That  de- 
pression in  the  mountain  summits  beyond,  marks 
the  opening  of  Livermore  pass,  thi'ough  which  the 
Western  Pacific  Railroad  finds  its  way. 

Beyond  Hayward's,  further  south,  and  thence 
sweeping  around  to  the  right,  toward  the  extreme 
end  of  the  bay,  we  dimly  discern  the  noiihern  end  of 
the  beautiful  Santa  Clara  Valley,  where  it  widens 
out  and  flattens  down  to  the  bay.  We  are  now 
looking  abnost  due  south.  Only  foui-  miles  down. 
Hunter's  Point  shuts  off  our  further  view,  and  com- 
pels us  to  look  nearer  home.  A  trifle  west  of  that, 
and  half  as'far  away,  the  Potrero  j^resents  its  trans- 
verse ridge,  fast  disapj)earing  under  the  rapidly- 
growing  city,  and  showing  a  gap  of  daylight  where 
the  deep  cut  of  the  Bay  View  horse  railroad  was  re- 
lentlessly dug  and  blasted  through,  in  its  stubborn 
pursuit  of  a  practicable  grade.  Between  the  cut 
and  ourselves,  the  Long  Bridge'  shuts  off  the  Mis- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  VICINITY,  179 

sion  bay,  and  shows  where  the  fast-filling  mud-flats 
will  soon  crowd  back  the  bay,  and  make  a  new 
water  front.  Still  nearer,  we  have  the  western 
slope  or  ridge  of  Kincon  Hill,  rising  gradually  to 
the  left,  and  packed  all  over  with  the  huddled  and 
mostly  wooden  houses  of  the  new  and  hurriedly- 
built  city.  Along  the  inner  base  of  the  hill,  and 
stretching  out  westward,  lies  the  old  "  Happy 
Valley."  That's  just  this  side  of  where  you  see  the 
shot-tower,  and  runs  thence  four  or  five  blocks  to 
the  right.  Between  that  and  ourselves,  coming- 
over  this  side  of  Market  street,  we  have  the  oldest 
and  most  denselj^-built  part  of  the  city,  relieved 
here  and  there — by  the  Occidental  Hotel,  Tucker's 
tower,  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  Murphy,  Grant 
&  Go's,  building,  and  half  a  dozen  others.  Now 
let  the  vision  range  away  southwest,  again  begin- 
ning at  the  hills  and  coming  in.  The  bounding 
hills  are  Bernal  Heights,  west  of  which  Fairmount 
and  the  adjacent  hills  merge  into  the  peninsular 
range,  and  form  a  rude  amphitheatre,  within  which 
nestles  the  fast-growing  southwestern  precinct. 
Coming  up  toward  the  west,  the  twin  summits  of 
the  Mission  peaks  slant  the  vision  up  against  the 
sky,  or  plunge  it  into  the  fleecy  billows  of  in-rolling 
ocean  fog,  Avhich  seldom  survives  the  warmer  air  of 
the  inner  basin  long  enough  to  roll  far  down  their 
western  slope.  Between  them  and  Vis  lies  the  Mis- 
sion  Dolores,     grouped     around    its    century-old 


i8o  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

cliurcli.  Nortliward  of  the  twin-peaks  tlie  hills 
rise  in  "  promiscuous  prominence."  A  little  south 
of  west,  that  irregularly  conical  hill,  surmounted 
by  a  gigantic  solitary  cross,  is  the  famous  "Lone 
Mountain,"  about  whose  lower  slopes,  and  around 
Avhose  base  are  gTouped  so  many  "  cities  of  the 
dead."  Thence  northerly,  to  the  point  whence  our 
sui'vey  began,  little  of  note  arrests  the  sight,  more 
than  the  broad  reach  of  lower  hills  and  sandy 
dunes,  which  patiently  wait  the  coming  occupation 
of  the  westward-growing  city. 

Although  the  point  beneath  our  feet  is  but  three 
hundred  feet  high,  the  panoramic  view  is  wider  and 
freer  than  from  any  other,  even  the  highest  hilltop 
of  the  city. 

Russian  Hill. — About  one  mile  west-southwest 
from  Telegraph  Hill,  on  Vallejo  street,  between 
Taylor  and  Jones  street,  Russian  Hill  rises  nearly 
sixty  feet  higher,  but  offers  little  additional  pros- 
pect. It  was  formerly  surmounted  by  a  sort  of 
cork-screw  obsei-vatory,  a  skeleton  structure  of 
open  frame-work,  suiTounded  by  a  spiral  stairway, 
whose  summit  afforded  the  loftiest  lookout  within 
the  city  limits.  West-northwest  of  this  hill,  and 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  its  summit,  lies 
the  small  lagoon,  near  which  the  founders  of  the 
early  mission  first  located. 

Clay  Street  Hill. — Nearly  south  of  Russian 
Hill,  and  about  three  furlongs  from  it,  rises  this 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICLNIl  V. 


hill,  the  highest  within  the  city  limits.  It  is 
named  from  the  street  which  runs  just  south  of  its 
summit,  or  will  do  so  v/hen  cut  through.  The  hill 
is  376  feet  high,  and  is  a  little  over  a  mile  south- 
west of  telegraph  Hill.  The  view  from  its  sum- 
mit differs  only  in  having  moved  the  point  of  sight 
a  mile  southwest,  and  raised  it  about  80  feet. 

California  Street  Hill — This,  too,  takes  its 
name  from  that  of  the  neighboring  street.  It  is 
hardly  proper  to  call  it  a  separate  hill  as  it  is  but 
two  blocks  south  of  Cla'^  Street  Hill,  from  which 
only  a  slight  hollow  originally  separated  it. 

RiNCON  Hill. — Three  quarters  of  a  mile  south- 
west of  the  City  Hall.  Its  highest  point  reaches 
hardly  a  hundred  feet  above  the  bay  level.  The 
whole  hill  originally  offered  such  sightly  locations 
for  building  that  it  is  covered  on  nearly  all  sides, 
and  crowded  upon  its  very  height,  by  some  of  the 
most  comfortable  and  home-like  residences  in  the 
entire  city.  This  fact  makes  it  almost  impossible 
to  get  an  unobstructed  view,  in  all  directions,  from 
any  part  of  it.  It  was  a  favorite,  and  almost  an 
aristocratic  site  for  residences,  until  the  heartless 
greed  for  gain  procured  legal  authority  to  excavate 
the  famous  "  Second  Street  Cut;"  75  feet  deep, 
which  needlessly  ruined  the  beauty  of  the  hill. 

Lone  Mountain. — This  singularly  symmetrical  hill 
stands  two  and  one-half  miles  west  of  the  City 
Hall,  at  the  head  of  Bush  street.     It  is  284J  feet 


i82  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

high.  From  its  summit  rises  a  solitaiy  cross 
which,  especially  near  sunset,  stands  foi*th  against 
the  western  sky  with  peculiar,  beautiful  effect.  The 
view  hence  is  full  of  inspiration  and  suggestion. 
None  have  caught  more  of  these,  or  embodied  them 
in  finer  words  than  Bret  Harte,  in  his  fayorite 
lines  : 

As  I  stand  by  the  cross  on  the  lone  niomitain  crest, 

Looking  oyer  the  ultimate  sea, 
In  the  gloom  of  the  mountain  a  ship  lies  at  rest. 

And  one  sails  away  froUFthe  lea; 
One  spreads  its  white  wings  on  a  far-reaching  track. 

With  pennant  and  sheet  flowing  free, 
One  hides  in  the  shadow  with  sails  laid  aback — 

The  ship  that  is  waiting  for  me ! 

BiTt  lo,  in  the  distance  the  clouds  break  away, 

The  Gate's  glowing  portal  I  see, 
And  I  hear,  from  the  out-going  ship  in  the  bay, 

The  song  of  the  sailors  in  glee; 
So  I  think  of  the  luminous  foot-prints  that  bore 

The  comfort  o'er  dark  Galilee, 
And  wait  for  the  signal  to  go  to  the  shore; 

To  the  ship  that  is  waiting  for  me. 

Mission  Peaks. — The  double  peaks  already  men- 
tioned in  our  panoramic  eye-sweep  from  Telegraph 
Hill,  lying  three  miles  southwest  of  it,  sometimes 
called  the  Twin  Peaks.  They  are  five  hundred  and 
ten  feet  high,  and  stand  four  miles  southwest  of 
the  City  Hall.  They,  are  the  loftiest  points  in  the 
county;   either  summit  commands  a  view    which 


SJN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  183 

well  repays  the  time  and  labor  expended  in  gain- 
ing it. 

Bernal  Heights. — This  name  designates  a  sliort 
range  of  hills  nearly  five  miles  west-southwest  of 
the  City  Hall.  Starting  near  the  bay,  they  run 
transversely,  that  is,  westerly,  far  about  one  mile 
across  the  peninsula.  Their  highest  point  is  two 
hundred  and  ninety-five  feet  above  the  bay. 

The  highest  point  of  the  Potrero  is  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty-six  feet  above  low  tide,  and  the 
San  Miguel  Hills,  near  the  southerly  line  of  the 
county,  reach  the  height  of  about  four  hundred 
feet.  The  Pacific  Heights,  near  Alta  Plaza,  a  mile 
and  a  half  west  of  the  City  Hall,  are  three  hundred 
and  seventy-five  feet  high. 

These  are  all  the  natural  elevations  of  note  within 
the  city  and  county.  The  best  artificial  otrtlooks 
may  be  had  from  the  roof  of  the  houses  standing 
on  or  near  the  summits  of  those  hills  wliich  rise 
within  the  settled  j)ortion.  The  roof  of  Bancroft's 
building,  the  cupola  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  the  U.S. 
Military  Observatory,  on  the  southwest  corner  of 
Third  and  Market  streets,  and  the  Shot  Tower,  if 
you  can  j^ersuade  Mayor  Selby  to  let  you  up,  ail. 
afford  extensive  and  beautiful  prosj)ects. 

Having  thus  told  the  tourist  all  we  know  about 
the  most  feasible  and  temperate  methods  of  ' '  get- 
ting high,"  we  leave  him  to  his  own  direction,  only 
adding  that  if  he  isn't  satisfied  with  our  efforts  in  his 


1 84  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

behalf,  lie'd  better  go  "  up  in  a  balloon,"  and  view 
our  citj^  as  the  Germans  did  Paris. 

How  to  get  about. 

The  universal,  inexpensive,  always-ready  and 
democratic  way  is  by  the  ever-present  Horse  Cars. 
Seven  different  companies  have  laid  about  fifty 
miles  of  rail  in  and  about  the  city,  and  carry  one 
either  directly  to  or  within  a  very  short  distance  of 
any  desired  point. 

Lines,  Routes  and  Colors. — The  Omnibus  and 
North  Beach  and  Mission  R.R.  Companies  run 
yellow  cars  through  Third  and  Fourth,  Sansome, 
Montgomery  and  Kearney,  the  central  blocks  of 
Stockton,  and  the  northern  ends  of  Powell  and 
Mason.  They  also  run  red  cars  from  the  centre  of 
the  city  to  the  southwestern  limits,  through  How- 
ard and  Folsom  streets. 

The  Central  Jl.R.  Co.  runs  red  cai*s  from  the 
steamboat  landings  along  the  city  front,  through 
Jackson,  Sansome,  Bush,  and  other  leading  streets 
to  Lone  Mountain.  Theii-  cars  are  commonly  called 
the  Lone  Mountain  cars. 

The  Front  Street  and  Ocean  R.E.  Co.  runs  gi-een 
cars  from  the  steamboat  landings  at  the  foot  of 
Broadway,  up  that  street,  along  Battery,  Market, 
Sutter  and  Polk  streets,  by  Spring  Valley  to  the 
Presidio,  whence  '  busses  connect  for  Fort  Point, 
A.  branch  of  this  road  runs  through  Larkin  street 


SAy  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  185 

across  Market  tlirougli  Ninth  to  Mission;  thus  con- 
necting the  western  with  the  southwestern  suburbs. 
Within  the  year  this  company  has  also  constructed 
and  put  into  operation  another  branch,  carrying  one 
to  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery  and  Lone  Mountain. 

The  Market  Street  K.E.,  the  pioneer,  runs  blue 
cars  from  the  junction  of  Montgomeiy  and  Market 
street,  opposite  the  Grand  Hotel,  through  Market 
by  the  San  Jose  Depot,  and  out  Valencia  to 
Twenty-sixth.  From  the  junction  of  Ninth  and 
Larkin  street  with  Market,  it  sends  a  branch  out 
through  Hayes  Valley  to  Hayes  Valley  Pavilion. 

The  City  R.  R. — Lately  built,  and  newly  stocked, 
runs  from  the  west  front  of  Grand  Hotel,  at  the 
junction  of  Market  and  New  Montgomery,  along 
the  latter  to  Mission,  thence  out  Mission  to  Twenty- 
Sixth,  passing  directly  by  the  entrance  to  Wood- 
ward's Gardens,  and  within  one  block  of  the  San 
Jose  depot. 

The  Potrero  and  Bay  View  R.  R. — Connecting 
with  the  North  Beach  and  Mission  R.  R.,  at  the 
south  end  of  Fourth  street,  runs  thence  across  the 
Long  Bridge  over  Mission  Bay — through  the.  Potrero 
Deep  Cut,  over  the  Islais  Creek  bridge,  through 
South  San  Francisco  to  the  Bay  View  Race  Track 
terminus,  within  half  a  mile  of  Hunter's  Point  and 
the  Dry  Dock. 

Times,  Fares,  etc. — Commencing  at  about  6  p. 
M.,  in  summer  earlier,  the  cars  run  at  various  in- 


1 86  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

tervals  of  from  tliree  to  seven  minutes  until  11  and 
12  o'clock  p.  M.,  and  on  the  City  E.  R.,  till  1.30 
the  next  morning.  Nearly  all  the  roads  sell  tickets, 
haying  four  coupons  attached,  for 'twenty-five  cents 
each.  Every  coupon  is  good  for  one  fare  from  one 
end  of  the  city  to  the  other,  and  the  coupon  tickets 
of  one*  company  are  received  by  every  other.  For 
single  fares,  paid  without  coupons,  they  usually 
charge  ten  cents.  Nearly  a  year  ago  the  City  R. 
R.  started  the  half-dime  fare,  asking  but  five  cents 
for  a  single  ride,  and  the  Market  street  R.  R.  has 
also  adopted  it.  "Children  occupying  seats,  full 
fare." 

Several  of  the  companies  issue  transfer  checks 
entitling  the  passenger  to  continue  his  ride  upon 
any  intersecting  line  without  extra  charge. 

Hacks  and  Coaches. — For  the  benefit  of  those 
who  have  occasion  to  engage  any  of  the  above,  for 
the  transient  sei-vice  of  any  excursion  lying  outside 
of  the  regular  routes,  or  beyond  the  legal  limits 
within  which  the  fixed  fare  obtains,  we  subjoin 
the  following  l©gal  regulations  also  contained  in 
the  order  and  section  already  quoted  on  a  previous 
page: 

*'  For  a  hackney  carriage,  drawn  by  more  than 
one  horse,  for  four  or  less  persons,  when  engaged 
by  the  hour,  to  be  computed  for  the  time  occupied 
in  going  and  returning,  including  detention,  $3  for 
the  first  hour,  and  $2  for  each  subsequent  hour. 


SAJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINIl  V.  187 

"  For  a  hackney  carriage,  drawn  by  one  horse, 
for  two  persons,  when  engaged  by  the  hour,  to  be 
occupied  in  going  and  returning,  including  deten- 
tions, $1  50  for  the  first  hour,  and  $1  for  each 
subsequent  hour." 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  remark,  yet  it  may  pre- 
vent misunderstanding  to  add,  that  the  above  rates 
pay  for  the  service  of  the  lahole  carriage,  and  may 
be  equitably  divided  among  the  occupants  as  they 
agree. 

Livery  Service. — The  livery  stables  of  the  city 
are  numerous,  and  well-stocked  with  animals  of 
blood  and  sj)eed,  and  every  form  of  two  or  four- 
wheeled  vehicles  from  the  substantial,  three-seated 
thorough-braced  w^agon  to  the  elegant  or  fancy 
single  buggy  or  sulky.  The  usual  rates,  at  all 
first  class  stables,  are  five  dollars  a  day,  or  a  drive, 
for  a  single  team,  and  ten  dollars  for  a  double  one. 
For  a  very  short  trip,  and  a  very  short  time,  they 
frequently  abate  something,  and  when  a  team  is 
engaged  for  several  days  or  weeks  at  once,  com- 
monly make  the  rate  lower.  For  saddle  horses  the 
price  is  usually  one  half  that  of  a  single  team,  that 
is  $2  50  for  a  day  or  drive — subject  to  similar  re- 
ductions as  above. 

On  Foot. — If  you -have  the  nerve  and  muscle  of 
a  man,  and  are  not  sadly  out  of  training,  by  all  means 
walk  through  or  about  the  city  and  around  its 
suburbs.     In  several  places,  as,  in  climbiiig  Tele- 


i88  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

graph  or  any  other  hill,  you  -will  have  to  walk,  and 
then  3^ou  can.  Even  our  lady  visitors  might  profi- 
tably emulate  the  pedestrian  performances  of  their 
English  sisters.  '  Provide  good  easy,  wide-bot- 
tomed, low-heeled  walking-shoes,  boots  or  gaiters, 
and  take  the  beautiful,  windless  and  dustless 
morning  hours  for  it  and,  unless  your  taste  is  fash- 
ionably perv^erted  or  your  phj'sical  energy  hope- 
lessly exhausted,  you  will  find  it  most  delightful. 
Among  the  Scottish  Highlands,  or  in  the  Swiss 
Alps,  you  would  certainly  do  it,  endure  it,  enjoy 
it,  and  subsequently  boast  of  it;  why  not  try  it 
here  ? 

Suburbs  and  Vicinity. 

We  suppose  the  visitor  to  have  fairly  rested — to 
have  walked  about  a  little  through  the  more  central 
portion;  to  have  somewhat  studied  the  general 
plan  of  the  city,  in  view  of  the  larger  or  shorter 
time  which  he  has  to  spend  in  the  city,  to  have 
made  up  his  mind  how  much  he  will  see,  and  what 
it  shall  be.  By  way  of  helping  his  planning  and 
sight-seeing,  we  now  catalogue  and  briefly  remark 
upon  the  more  notable  points,  taken  in  regular 
order  from  the  most  central  starting  point.  We 
offer  the  following  pages  as  helpful  suggestions  to 
those  who  cannot  avail  themselves  of  the  i^ersonal 
guidance  of  some  resident  friend,  who  can  con- 
stantly accompany  them  to  direct  their  route,  and 
verbally  explain  the  details  which  these    printed 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY,  189 

pages  attempt.  If  one  lias  not  time,  or  does  not 
wish  to  see  anything  here  set  down,  he  can  easily 
omit  it,  and  from  the  remainder  select  whatever  he 
may  chose,  transposing,  combining,  modifying 
and  adapting  according  to  his  own  good  pleasure. 

GENEBAL    CIRCUIT    OF    THE    CITY. 

Commencing  at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  thence 
southward,  along  or  over  the  water  front,  continu- 
ing around  the  entire  city  and  returning  to  the 
point  of  starting.  Also  mentioning  more  distant 
points  visible  to  the  spectator  looking  beyond  the 
suburbs : 

The  Lumber  Yards,  Wharves  and  Merchant  Fleet, 
first  attract  our  notice.  Millions  of  feet  of  boards, 
plank  and  timber  from  the  northern  coast  of  this 
State  and  from  Oregon,  ranged  in  immense  piles  on 
broad  and  deep  piers — alongside  of  which  the 
schooners,  brigs  and  barks  of  the  lumber  fleet  are 
constantly  discharging. 

Thence  along  Stewart  or  East  street,  the  latter 
being  nearer  the  water,  by  large  lumber-yards, 
boat-shops,  blacksmithing  and  ship-chandling  es- 
tablishments, we  reach  the  California  and  Oregon 
S.  S.  Co's  wharves  and  slips.  The  Folsdm  street 
cars  run  within  five  short  blocks  ;  nearer  than  any 
others. 

Black  Diamond  Coal  Company's  Pier. — Barges, 
sheds  and  piles  of  coal,  straight  from  the  bowels  of 


I90  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Mount  Diablo,  corner  Spear  and  Harrison  streets, 
P.  B.  Cornwall,  agent. 

Bincon  Point,  foot  of  Harrison  street.  The 
wharves  and  filling  have  quite  obliterated  the  old 
shore  line,  which  originally  turning  a  short  corner 
here,  received  the  name  "E-incon,"  which,  in  Span- 
ish, means  simply  a  corner. 

IT.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  noi-thwest  corner  of  Har- 
rison and  Spear. 

P.  M.  S.  S.  Co.'s  Piers,  Docks,  Sheds  and  Slips. 
Water  front,  foot  of  Brannan  and  Townsend  streets. 
Piers  having  a  total  front  of  1200  feet,  shed  600 
feet  long  by  250  wide.  Steamships  over  five  thou- 
sand tons  register  and  docks  built  especially  for 
them.     Capt.  W.  B.  Cox,  Superintendent. 

Gas  Works,  corner  of  King  and  Second.  The 
other  works  of  the  same  company,  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Gas  Co.,  are  on  Howard  street,  from  First 
to  Beale. 

C.  P.  E.  R.  Co.'s  Freight  Pier,  Depot  and  Boat. 
Foot  of  Second  street. 

Mission  Bay.  Foot  of  Second  and  Third  streets. 
The  broad  cove  lying  between  South  street  and 
Potrero ;  now  fast  filling  in,  especially  beyond,  that 
is,  south  of  the  Long  Bridge. 

Mission  Rock. — Off  the  foot  of  Third  street.  Has 
a  shanty  on  it.     Used  for  fishing. 

XJ.  S.  Ship  Anchorage. — Between  foot  of  Third 
and  the  Mission  Rock,  and  within  a  quarter-mile 


SAJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY. 


radius  of  tlie  latter.  U.  S.  Revenue  Cutters  and 
Coast  Survey  vessels,  chiefly  occupy  it. 

Steamboat  Reserves. — In  the  docks  between 
Third  and  Fourth  and  the  adjacent  ones  along  the 
south  side  of  the  bridge. 

Long  Bridge. — From  the  foot  of  Fourth  street, 
across  Mission  Bay  to  Potrero — one  mile.  Will 
becon^e  Kentucky  street,  when  tke  filling-in  makes 
a  street  of  w^hat  is  now  a  bridge. 

Yacht  Club  Building. — East  side  of  Long  Bridge, 
one  third  across.     Yachts  at  moorings  near. 

Potrero. — The  point  at  the  south  end  of  Long 
Bridge.  Si)anish  for  pasture  ground.  Originally 
a  rocky  ridge.     Fast  disappearing  under  houses. 

Glass  Works. — Pacific  Glass  Works,  corner  Iowa 
and  Mariposa  streets,  four  blocks  west  of  bridge. 

Pacific  Rolling  Mill. — Potrero  Point,  water  front, 
east  of  bridge. 

Deep  Cut,  is  really  Kentucky  street,  brought 
down  somewhere  near  the  future  grade,  by  cutting- 
through  the  solid  rock,  to  an  average  depth  of  75 
feet  for  nearly  a  fifth  of  a  mile. 

Rope  Walk  runs  under  Kentucky  street,  near  the 
north  end  of  the  Islais  Creek  Bridge,  which  is  the 
same  street  continued  across  Islais  Creek,  now  a 
solidly  planked  bridge,  seven  eighths  of  a  mile  long. 

Italian  Fishing  Fleet  and  Flakes,  on  the  right  of 
the  bridge,  along  the  cove-beach  just  beyond  the 
rope-walk.  Their  Mongolian  competitors  have  their 
boats  and  beach  a  little  further  south. 


192  BANCROFT'S    TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

South  San  Francisco  is  the  lising  land  or  ridge 
south  of  Islais  Creek.  It  is  a  pleasant  suburb,  rap- 
idly growing. 

Catholic  Orphan  Asylum,  that  large,  new  wood- 
en building  fronting  on  Connecticut  street,  nine 
blocks  west  of  the  bridge. 

Hunter's  Point  is  the  east  end  of  South  San 
Francisco,  a  rocky  point  in  which  the  Drs'  Dock, 
dug  out  of  the  solid  rock,  four  hundred  and  twen- 
ty-one feet  long,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide 
at  the  top,  and  sixty  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  which 
is  twenty-two  feet  below  mean  high  water.  With 
the  Floating  Dock,  near  by,  it  cost  two  millions  of 
dollars. 

Bay  Yiew  Race  Track,  near  Railroad  Avenue,  a 
mile  southwest  of  Islais  Bridge  One  mile  around; 
broad,  smooth  and  hard.  Bay  View  House  at  north 
miirgin,  near  west  end. 

Visitacion  Point  and  Valley,  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  be3^ond  the  race  course;  worth  driving  out  to 
see,  if  you  have  plenty  of  time. 

San  Bruno  Road  unites  with  this  railroad  avenue 
about  half  a  mile  beyond  the  race  course;  brings 
one  back  near 

New  Butchertown,  corner  of  Islais  Creek  Canal 
and  Kentucky  street. 

Drive  back  this  old  San  Bmno  Road,  until  jou 
come  to  Twenty-sixth  street;  along  that  to  Mission; 
down  Mission  to  Seventeenth,  out  which  you  may 


SJJV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  193 

drive  until  you  find  your  way  winding  and  climbing 
up  and  over  the  east  slopes  of  the  peninsular  hills 
along  the  Oce^i  House  Road,  a  broad,  hard  track, 
leading  over  the  hills  to  the  house  which  names  it. 
Opposite  Twenty-fourth  street  is  the  toll  gate, 
where  you  pay  twelve  and  a  half,  or  twenty -five 
cents,  according. to  your  team.  A  mile  beyond,  a 
side  gate,  free,  admits  you  to  a  carriage-way  through 
the  fields,  leading  down,  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
to  Lake  Honda,  the  huge  double-reservoir  of  slop- 
ing-sided masonry,  covered  with  cement,  and  hold- 
ing thirty-five  million  gallons.  This  well  merits  a 
visit.  The  City  Almshouse  stands  on  the  hill, 
half  a  mile  south  of  the  lake. 

The  Small-pox  Hospital  is  the  small  building- 
standing  alone  on  the  hill,  a  third  of  a  mile  north 
of  the  Almshouse. 

Returning  to,  and  resuming  the  main  road,  a  mile 
southwesterly  and  then  westerly,  brings  us  to  the 
Ocean  Race  Course,  securely  enclosed,  and  having 
the  usual  circuit  and  surface. 

Opposite  this,  and  half  a  mile  south  lies  Lake 
Merced,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long  by  a  fifth  of 
a  mile  wide.  That  part  of  it  nearer  to,  and  paral- 
lel with  the  road,  is  a  smaller,  nearly  separate  lake 
called  simply  "  the  Lagoon." 

Ocean  House,  on  a  slight  sandy  knoll,  half  a 
mile  northwest  of  Lake  Merced. 

Pacific  Beach. — This  is  the    sandy  shore  of  the 


194  BANCROFT'S  TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

''  ultimate  sea,"  stretching  almost  exactly  north  two 
miles  to  the  base  of  the  cliff,  up  which  a  well-built 
road  carries  us  a  score  of  rods  northt^esterly  to  the 

Cliff  House,  the  grand  terminus,  or  at  least  way- 
station  of  all  ocean  diives.  Its  broad,  covered 
piazza,  well-furnished  with  easy  chairs  and  good 
marine  glasses,  has  been  for  y^ars  the  popular  ob- 
sei'^atory  whence  fashion  languidly  patronizes  the 
Pacific,  or  gazes  with  momentary  interest  -upon  the 

Seal  Eocks — three  hundi'ed  feet  from  the  shore, 
and  dotted  with  lubb6rly  seals,  clumsily  climbing 
upon  the  lower  rocks,  or  lazily  sunning  themselves 
above. 

Farallones — Twenty-five  miles  seaward  from  the 
Cliff  House — seven  sharj)-pointed  islets  break  the 
monotony  of  the  western  horizon.  The  highest  of 
these  rises  three  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and  has  a 
large  lighthouse  of  the  first-class,  vrith  the  finest 
Fresnel  light  on  the  coast. 

Point  Lobes,  a  precipitous' coast  bluff,  a  thii'd 
of  a  niile  north  of  the  Cliff  House,  chiefl}^  noted 
as  the  site  of  the  Signal  Station;  provided  ^th  a 
fine  glass  and  the  usual  outfit  of  a  marine  observa- 
tory. Thence  along  the  beach,  or  the  brow  of  the 
bluff,  if  you  like  climbing,  by  the  Helmet  Rock, 
whose  shape  hardly  appears  from  the  land,  around 
the  curve  of  the  shore,  whose  general  direction  here 
is  northeast,  a  full  mile,  to 

Fort  Point,  where  stands  a  doubly-strengthened 


SAiV  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  195 

and  ]iea\dly-mounted  fort,  yet  unnamed,  whose 
chief  interest  founds  upon  its  general  resemblance 
to  the  famous  Fort  Sumter. 

Lighthouse. — The  northwest  angle  of  the  fort 
supports  a  substantial  tower,  showing  affixed  white 
light.  From  the  walls  of  the  fort,  or  better  still, 
from  the  lighthouse  balcony,  we  look  upon  and 
across  the 

Golden  Grate,  the  connecting  strait  between  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  San  Francisco  Bay.  It  is  be- 
tween three  and  four  miles  long,  from  one  to  two 
miles  wide,  and  over  four  hundred  feet  deep. 

Lime  Point,  the  northern  inside  gate-post — the 
southeastern  extremity  of  Marin  county. 

Point  Bonita. — The  outer  or  oceanward  point  of 
the  northern  shore,  nearly  two  miles  west  of  the 
fort,  crowned  with  a  lighthouse. 

Mountain  Lake — One  mile  south  of  the  fort,  and 
sending  a  little  rivulet  called  Lobos  Creek  westward 
into  the  Pacific,  which  it  helps  to  replenish. 

Presidio — Spanish  for  garrison  or  barracks.  This 
is  nearly  a  mile  southeast  of  the  fort,  as  we  return 
toward  the  city.  Its  main  features  are  the  exteur 
si ve  barracks,  accommodating  several  hundred  U.  S. 
soldiers,  who  make  this  their  point  of  arrival  and 
departure  in  going  to  or  coming  from  the  different 
stations  to  which  they  may  be  ordered.  Forming 
the  parallelogram  front  is  the  parade  ground,  a 
broad,  open  field,   gently  falling  toward  the  bay, 


196  BANCROFT'S  TOURISTS  GUIDE 

surrounded  by  the  officei-s'  quarters  or  the  bar- 
racks, and  dotted  with  batteries  here  and  there. 

Black  Point. — The  water  front  at  the  foot  of 
Franklin  and  Grough  streets. 

Pioneer  Woolen  Mills — Corner  of  Polk  and 
Reade  streets.     Office,  115  Battery  street. 

North  Beach — From  the  foot  of  Powell  street 
west  to  Black  Point. 

Angel  Island,  three  and  a  half  miles  north  of 
Black  Point,  across  the  bay. 

Alcatraces  Island^A  mile  and  a  half  north  of 
North  Beach,  off  in  the  ba}^  heavily  fortified,  com- 
manding the  Golden  Gate. 

North  Point — Water  front,  foot  of  Kearnj^  street, 
corner  of  Bay  street. 

Sea  Wall — Water  front  from  the  foot  of  Union 
street,  southward;  a  sloping  bulkhead  of  rubble, 
faced  with  heavier  rock,  costing  $240  a  linear  foot, 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  long. 

Ferries. — Alameda — Corner  of  Davis  and  Pacific 
street.     City  Front  Cars. 

Oakland — Same  dock,  next  slip  south.  City 
Front  Cars. 

Saucelito — Meiggs'  Wharf,  foot  of  Powell  street. 
North  Beach  cars. 

San  Quentin — Davis  street,  near  Vallejo.  City 
Front  or  Sutter  street  cars. 

Vallejo — Corner  of  Front  and  Vallejo.  City 
Front  or  Sutter  street  cars. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  197 

HOW     TO     SEE    SAN     FRANCISCO  •  AND     ITS     SUEROUNDINGS. 

Brief  trij^s,  or  short  excursions,  requiring  but  a 
few  hours  each.  Short  skeleton  tours  in  and  about 
the  suburbs,  suggesting  the  most  interesting  points, 
with  the  walks,  rides,  drives  or  sails  by  which  one 
may  reach  them — the  time  required  and  the  best 
hours  of  the  day,  the  amount  of  walking  necessary, 
with  the  conveniences  and  cost. 

IN   AND    ABOUT    THE    CITY. 

I.  Walk  up  Montgomery  street  to  Telegraph 
Hill.  If  you  don't  feel  like  climbing  clear  to  the 
top,  follow  the  foot-path  which  winds  around  about 
two  thirds  up  its  east  and  northeast  slopes.  If 
you  go  to  the  top  you  can  go  down  into — or  if  you 
take  the  lower  path  you  will  come  round  into,  Lom- 
bard street.  Walk  down  that  to  Powell;  turn  to 
your  right  and  follow  Powell  north  to  the  water 
and  Meiggs'  wharf,  down  the  wharf  if  you  want 
the  bay  breeze,  and  the  bay  sights  from  a  lower 
level;  come  back — take  the  South  Park  cars;  ride 
up  Powell  by  Washington  Square,  up  Stockton, 
down  Washington — get  out  at  the  upper  corner  of 
the  Plaza,  walk  diagonally  across,  notice  the  old 
City  Hall  on  your  left,  stroll  up  Kearny  to  Cali- 
fornia or  Bush,  down  which  you  descend  one  block 
to  Montgomery. 

II.  Chinese  Quarters. — Sacramento  street,  from 
Kearny  to  Dupont,  along  Dupont  to  Pacific,  down 


198  BANCROFT' S   'TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Pacific  to  Stockton,  to  Jackson,  down  Jackson 
to  Kearny;  cast  your  eyes  down  the  little  alleyways 
and  courts  which  cut  up  the  blocks  along  these 
streets.  Look  at  these  signs!  "  Hop  Yik,  Wo 
Ki,  Tin  Yuk,  Hop  Wo,  Chung  Sun,  Cheung 
Kuong,  Hang  Ki,  Yang  Kee,  Shang  Tong, 
Shun  Wo,"  that  last  would'nt  be  a  bad  one 
to  go  over  the  door  of  *'  civilized"  laim-hole. 
"Wing  On  Tsiang,  Wung  Wo  Shang,  Kwong  On 
Cheang,"  and  scores  of  others.  Most  are  personal 
names,  some  are  business  mottoes.t  They  are 
generally  phonographic,  that  is,  you  pronounce 
them  according  to  their  spelling*".  Here  and  there 
one  suggests  fun.  For  instance,  "ManLi."  Well, 
why  not  a  Chinaman  as  well  as  a  white  man?  Has 
the  superior  race  the  monopoly  of  lying?  That 
sign  is  certainly  creditable  to  the  Chinese  female; 
it  says  Man  Li;  not  woman  lie .  Not  far  thence  a 
veiy  appropriate  successor  finishes  the  logical  se- 
quence, "Hung  Hi."  Certainly,  why  not?  That's 
what  ought  to  be  done  to  any  merchant  who  will 
lie.  Any  Man  Li,  should  be  "  Hung  Hi."  These 
celestials  certainly  have  no  bad  idea  of  the  eternal 
fitness  of  things.  What  would  haj)pen  to  our 
Melican  merchants  if  that  rule  were  rigidly  aj)- 
plied  ?  It  would'nt  be  much  trouble  to .  take  the 
next  census.  This  is  the  out-door  glance  by  daj'light. 
If  you  want  a  more  thorough  exploration  by  day  or 
by  night,  call  on  special  officer  Duffield,  (George 


SAN  FRAA  CISCO  AND   VICINITY.  199 

W.)  at  1,107  Montgomory  street,  who  knows  their 
haunts  and  ways,  and  can  show  you  all  you'll  care 
to  see.  His  long, experience  among  them  has  also 
acquainted  them  with  him  to  such  a  degree,  that 
they  allow  him  to  enter  and  pass  through  their 
houses  and  rooms  whence  another  might  be  shut 
out.  In  fact,  he  is  their  special  officer,  paid  by  the 
Chinese  merchants  to  guard  their  property,  and  is 
emphatically  the  man  to  have  for  an  escort.  He 
can  take  you  into  their  gambling  saloons,  into  their 
pigeon-hole  Jodging  houses  where  rag-pickers,  beg- 
gars and  thieves  fill  the  air  with  opium  smoke,  then 
shove  themselves,  feet  foremost,  into  a  square  box 
of  a  pigeon-hole,  more  like  a  coffin  than  a  couch. 
He  can  guide  you  into  crooked,  narrow,  labyrin- 
thine passages  through  which  you  can  just  squeeze, 
and  which  you  could  never  find  nor  enter  without 
guidance;  into  inner  courts,  around  which,  and  in 
the  midst  of  which,  stand  old  rickety,  tumble-down, 
vermin-haunted  hives  of  wooden  tenements  which 
rise  through  three  or  four  stories,  all  alive  with  the 
swarming  lazzaroni,  packed  into  the  smallest  and 
dirtiest  of  rooms,  and  huddled  into  every  dark  and 
filthy  corner. 

These^are  the  lowest  and  worst  of  their  race;  the 
infeimal  celestials,  among  whom  the  officer  will  not 
take  a  woman  at  all,  and  where  it  would  not  be  safe 
for  any  man  to  attempt  entrance  alone.  The  ap- 
proaches are  so  ingeniously  constructed  and  so  art- 
9 


200  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

fully  disguised,  and  the  passages  wind  among  each 
other  so  intricately,  and  intersect  each  other  so  per- 
plexingly,  that  not  one  in  a  thousand  could  ever 
find  the  beginning,  and  hardly  one  in  ten  thousand 
could  discover  the  end. 

"  For  ways  that  are  dark. 
And  for  tricks  that  are  vain, 
The  heathen  Chinee  'm  peculiar ; 
Which  the  same  I  would  rise  to  explain." 

The  stranger  must  not  conclude,  however,  that 
such  as  these  make  up  the  bulk  of  the  C^hinese  who 
come  to  us.  On  the  contraiy,  these  are  the  lowest 
and  vilest,  the  dregs  and  settlings  of  their  social 
system;  no  more  fit  to  be  taken  as  samples  of  their 
nation  than  the  low,  whisky-drinking,  shillaly- 
swinging,  skull-cracking,  vote-re^Deating  Irish,  who 
now  govern  New  York,  are  to  be  taken  as  fair  types 
of  the  "  finest  pisantiy  undher  the  sun,"  or  consid- 
ered as  a  representative  of  the  educated  Irishman, 
than  whom  a  warmer-hearted,  freer-handed,  more 
courteous-mannered  gentleman  one  can  hardly  meet 
in  a  thousand  miles. 

So  the  middle  classes  of  the  Chinese  are  .cleanly, 
sober,  industrious  and  honest,  while  their  leading 
merchants,  of  whom  we  have  several  fine  represen- 
tatives in  the  city,  are  models  of  business  integrity 
and  social  courteB3^  Enter  one  of  their  establish- 
ments, with  proper  introduction,  and  you  shall  en- 
counter the  most  perfect  politeness  throughout  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY. 


interview,  and  carry  away  tlie  impression  that  you 
were  never  more  heartily  welcomed  and  generously 
entertained,  according  to  their  custom,  of  course, 
by  any  strangers,  in  your  life. 

And  one  very  notable  thing  should  also  be  said 
of  their  street  deportment;  you  may  walk  through 
their  quarter  every  day  and  night  for  a  month,  and 
not  see  a  single  drunken  man  of  their  own  race.  If 
you  encounter  one  at  all,  he  is  likely  to  belong  to 
the  "  superior  race." 

Your  survey  of  the  Chinese  quarter  would  be  in- 
complete without  a  visit  to  their  temples  or  joss 
houses.  One  of  these  stands  off  Pine,  just  above 
Kearny.     They  are  also  used  as  hospitals. 

Should  you  wish  any  souvenir  in  the  shape  of 
their  peculiarly  ingenious  manufacture,*  you  may 
find  them  at  the  Chinese  or  Japanese  bazaars. 

III.  Thikd  Street. — Five  and  a  half  blocks  to 
South  Park;  thence  three  blocks  to  the  water; 
along  Channel  street  to  Long  Bridge.  Here  we 
may  take  the  Bay- View  cars,  ride  across  the  Mission 
Bay,  visit  the  Eolling  Mills,  or  keep  on  through 
the  Deep  Cut,  over  Islais  Creek  bridge,  through 
South  San  Francisco,  to  Bay  View  track,  whence 
'busses  carry  us  to  Hunter's  Point  and  the  Dry 
Dock.  Best  time,  morning,  unless  some  ship  is 
going  into  dock  on  the  high  tide.  Fare  in  'bus, 
twenty-five  cents  each. 


202  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

IV. — Water  FRONT-South  of  Market.-Walk  along 
East  or  Stewart  St.,  by  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  to  P. 
M.S.S.  Co/s  ships  and  docks  andC.  P.K.R.  Freight 
piers  and  depot.  Thus  far  no  cars.  At  foot  of 
Brannan  take  cars,  ride  up  that  to  Third,  down 
Third,  by  South  Park,  to  Howard — along  Howard 
to  Second,  along  Second  to  Market  again.  Or  j^ou 
can  walk  from  the  water  up  Second  to  Market 
again.  Or  you  can  walk  from  the  water  up  Second 
through  the  cut  to  Han-ison,  climb  the  bridge-stairs, 
walk  down  Hanisonto  First  or  Fremont,  turn  left, 
and  come  back  by  the  Shot  Tower,  Foundiies,  and 
Factories  to  Market. 

V. — Water  Froxt — North  of  Market. — No  cars 
here.  Stroll  northerly  by  the  corners  of  the  different 
streets,  ajong  the  heads  of  the  different  piers, 
among  the  grain  and  produce  boats,  river  steamer 
do(?ks  and  feny  slips,  around  to  North  Point,  with 
its  bonded  warehouses,  iron  clippers,  and  sea  wall, 
thence  back  Sansome  to  Broadway,  whence  cars 
take  you  again  to  the  centre. 

YI. — Southwestern  Suburbs. — From  comer  west 
front  of  Grand  Hotel,  take  city  cars  out  Mission,  by 
fine  new  church,  new  Mint,  to  Woodward's  Gar- 
dens; thence  to  Sixteenth;  up  that  three  blocks, 
westerly,  to  Dolores  street,  where  stands  the  old 
Mission  Church,  the  site  of  the  first  permanent  set- 
tlement of  San  Francisco  ;  out  Dolores;  south  two 
blocks,  to  Jewish  Cemeteries;  back  by  same  way  to 


SAN  FRANCISCO  AND   VICINITY.  203 

Sixteenth  ;  down  that  to  Mission  Woolen  Mills ; 
thence  home  by  Folsom  street  or  Howard  street 
cars,  either  of  which  "brings  you  to  Market  street. 

VII. — Western  Suburbs  and  beyond. — From 
Montgomery  up  Sutter,  by  cars,  or  up  Bush  by  feet 
or  wheels.  Either  street  carries  jovl  westerly  to 
Laurel  Hill,  in  which  elegant  monuments  and 
mausoleums  merit  more  than  passing  notice;  thence 
east  three  blocks  to  Lfone  Mountain  and -the  ceme- 
teries grouped  about  its  base,  and  upon  its  lower 
slopes — the  Odd  Fellows',  west;  the  Masonic,  south, 
and  the  Calvary  north  and  east.  Out  the  Cliff 
House  Eoad — you'll  need  horse  probably,  or  can 
take  the  'bus  for  25  cents  each  way — by  the  Race 
Track  or  Driving  Park,  to  the  Cliff  House;  look  at 
the  Seal  Rock's,  Seals,  Ocean  andFarallones;  thence 
south  along  Pacific  Beach  to  Ocean  House,  whence 
in  by  Ocean  Road  or  the  new  Central  Road  by 
Lake  Peralta  and  Lake  Honda.  The  old  Ocean 
Road  brings  you  back  through  the  Mission;  the 
new  one,  in  by  Lone  Mountain  again, 

VIII. — Northwestern  Suburbs  and  beyond. — 
Up  Geary,  Post  or  Sutter  to  Van  Ness  Avenue ; 
thence  twelve  blocks  north  through  Spring  Valley, 
by  cars  from  Broadway  west  to  Harbor  View,  Pre- 
sidio and  Fort  Point.  Returning  from  the  Presi- 
dio, keep  towards  the  Bay  ;  come  around  by  Black 
Point,  whence,  skirting  the  water-front  through 
five  or  six  rough  blocks,  you  reach  the  foot  of  Ma- 


204  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

son  or  Powell  street,  and  find  other  cars  waiting  to 
bring  you  home. 

The  routes  aboYe  suggested,  are  by  no  means 
exhaustive,  but  will  take  one  to  or  near  the  most 
noted  points.  If  the  tourist  can  have  the  personal 
guidance  and  escort  of  some  well-posted  friend,  so 
much  the  better.  In  the  absence  of  such  friend,  or 
even  to  accompany  him,  we  respectfully  submit  our 
little  pocket  substitute. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES. 


Undeb  this  head  we  suggest  different  excursions 
to  and  through  the  most  noted  localities  within  a 
limited  radius.  We  have  arranged  them  in 
the  order  of  their  neighborhood  to  each  other,  so 
that  one  may  pass  from  the  end  of  one  to  the  be- 
ginning of  the  next  without  the  necessity  of  return- 
ing to  San  Francisco  more  than  once  or  twice  be- 
fore completing  them  all. 

I.    The  Bay  Trip. 

We  suppose  you  tired  of  land  travel,  with  its  ac- 
companying jar  and  dust,  and  willing  to  spend  a 
half  day  in  a  smooth-sailing  steamer  on  the  beauti- 
ful bay.  Go  to  No.  703  Market  street,  only  nine 
nine  doors  east  of  Bancroft's,  to  the  office  of  Gen. 
Ord,  commanding  the  Department  of  California. 
He  can  give  you  a  pass,  ordering- the  captain  of  the 
McPherson,  the  lively  little  Government  propeller, 
which  daily  makes  the  rounds  of  the  military  posts 
on  all  the  chief  islands  in  the  harbor,  to  take  you 


2o6  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

to  any  you  may  wish  to  visit,  or  all,  if  you  desire. 
No  other  boat  makes  these  trips.  This  one  goes 
the  rounds  twice  a  day.  Unless  particularly  fond 
of  high  wind,  and  short,  choppy,  sea-sicky  waves, 
you'd  better  go  in  the  morning.  The  steamer 
leaves  Jackson  street  pier  every  morning  at  eight, 
and  eveiy  afternoon  at  three.     It  takes  you  first,  to 

Alcatraz,  or  Alcatraces,,  as  the  Government 
spells  it  over  the  fortress  gate.  The  first  is  the 
singular,  and  the  second  the  plural,  form  of  a 
Spanish  word  meaning  a  pelican.  The  island  lies 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  north  of  San  Francisco,  and 
two  and  one  half  miles  east  of  the  Golden  Gate, 
whose  entrance  it  commands.  It  is  one  third  of  a 
mile  long,  one  tenth  of  a  mile  wide,  rises  a  hundred 
and  foriy  feet  above  low  tide  ;  a  rudely  elongated 
oval  in  shape,  contains  about  thirty  acres,  com- 
posed mainly  of  solid  rock  ;  is  hea\ily  foiiified  on 
all  sides  and  crowned  by  a  strong  fortress  on  the 
toj).  Perfect  belts  of  batteries  surround  the  island, 
mounting  some  of  the  heaviest  guns  yet  made  in 
America.  It  is  the  key  to  the  foriifications  of  the 
harbor. 

The  island  affords  no  fresh  water.  All  which  is 
used  there  is  carried  thither  from  the  main  land  or 
caught  in  cisterns  during  the  rainy  season.  On  the 
highest  point  stands  a  lighthouse  of  the  thii'd  or- 
der, whose  light  can  be  seen,  on  a  clear  night, 
twelve    miles   at   sea,    outside   the   Golden   Gate. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES,  207 

The  southeast  point  of  the  island  has  a  heavy  fog- 
bell,  which  strikes  four  times  a  minute  through  all 
dense  fogs.  If  you  wish  to  land  and  examine  the 
fortress  and  batteries,  you  can  do  so,  and  stay  until 
the  boat  returns,  usually  half  or  three  quarters  of 
an  hour,  or  remain  till  its  afternoon  trip,  five  or 
six  hours  later.  From  Alcatraz,  the  boat  goes  a 
mile  and  a  half  to 

Angel  Island,  which  lies  three  miles  north  of 
San  Francisco,  and  is  the  largest  and  most  valuable 
island  in  the  bay.  It  is  a  mile  and  one  third  long, 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  seven  hundred 
and  seventy-one  feet  high.  It  contains  about  six 
hundred  acres  of  excellent  land,  watered  by  natural 
springs.  On  the  east  side  are  quarries  of  blue  and 
brown  sand-stone,  while  good  brick-clay  is  found 
elsewhere.  Three  fixed  batteries,  mounting  large 
and  heavy  guns,  and  connected  by  a  military  road 
encircling  the  island,  have  been  built.  The  offi- 
cers' quarters,  barracks,  and  parade  ground,  are  in 
a  shallow,  gently-sloping  valley,  near  the  landing 
on  the  west  side, 

fieturning,  we  touch  at  Alcatraz  and  thence 
steam  round  .to 

Yeeba  Buena,  or  Goat  Island,  two  miles  east  of 
San  Franc-isco,  and  two  and  a  half  from  the  Oak- 
land  shore,  from  which  the  long  railroad  pier  is 
heading  straight  for  it,  with  the  evident  intention 
of  bridging  the  entire  distance   at  an  early  day. 


2o8  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

The  island  contains  little  over  half  a  square  mile, 
principally  covered  with  chapparal,  which  is  here  a 
thicket  of  low,  evergi-een  oaks,  dwarfed  by  the  salt 
air  and  the  high  winds.  The  Grovernment  also 
owns  and  occupies  this  island — ban-acks,  shops, 
and  garrison.  The  name  Goat  Island  was  given 
from  the  fact  that  many  vessels  coming  to  this  port 
in  early  times,  from  southern  ports  where  goats 
were  cheap,  used  to  bring  them  for  fresh  meat  on 
the  passage.  In  the  event  of  a  short  voyage,  a  few 
goats  survived,  and  upon  arrival  here  were  turned 
loose  upon  this  island,  as  it  lay  near  the  anchorage, 
£ind  provided  a  place  from  which  the  goats  could 
not  escape.  These  veteran  survivors  of  the  voyage 
"  round  the  horn,"  presently  increased  to  such 
numbers  as  to  originate  the  name  "  Goat  Island,'' 
which  has,  to  a  sconsiderable  degree,  suj)planted 
the  earlier  and  more  significant  name  Yerba  Buena. 
This  latter  name,  having  been  lifted  from  the  city, 
ought  at  least  to  be  allowed  to  fall  and  rest  upon 
the  island,  in  perpetuation  of  those  "early  days," 
whose  landmarks  are  fast  failing  and  fading  into 
forgetfulness.  • 

Now  return  with  the  boat  to  the  pie;*,  exchange 
the  pure  bay-breeze  for  dust-laden  city  aii's,  and 
you  have  completed  your  bay  trip. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  209 

n.     The  Oakland  Trip. 

Oakland  lies  seven  miles  east  of  San  Francisco. 
At  least  tliat  is  the  distance  from  centre  to  centre; 
between  the  nearest  margins  the  measure  would  be 
hardly  five  miles.  A  dozen  times  a  day  the  ferry- 
boat takes  one  over  ;  •fare,  25  cents.  Get  out  at 
Broadway  street,  turn  to  your  left,  walk  four  or  five 
blocks,  notice  the  comfortable,  roomy  api)earance 
of  the  city.  Two  blocks  up,  observe  that  neat 
church  on  the  left,  set  well  back  from  the  street 
and  surrounded  by  ample  grounds  and  pleasant 
gardens.  That's  Kev.  Dr.  Mooar's  Congregational 
Church.  A  block  or  two  beyond,  look  up  the  broad 
street  to  the  right,  and  you  see  the  buildings  and 
grounds  now  occupied  by  the  State  University  of 
California,  pending  the  erection  of  ampler  accommo- 
dations on  the  University  site  at  Berkeley,  five  miles 
north.  Take  the  horse  cars  if  you  like,  and  ride 
out  north  along  the  "telegraph  road."  Noble  res- 
idences and  beautiful  grounds  line  both  sides  of  the 
way.  A  mile  out,  that  large,  new,  wooden  build- 
ing, crowning  the  summit  of  a  moderate  hill,  ac- 
commodates McClure's  Academy,  wherein  the  mil- 
itary drill  reinforces  and  enlivens  the  other  usual 
studies  of  a  first-class  academy. 

A  third  of  a  mile  further,  upon  the  same  side 
appears  the  large  and  finely-proportioned  Pacific 
Female  College,  lately  purchased  by  the  Pacific 
Theological  Seminary. 


2IO  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

Still  north  two  miles  further,  brings  us  to  or  in 
front  of  the 

Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind  Asylum,  beautifully  lo- 
cated on  the  top  of  a  little  rise,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  Golden  Gate,  the  bay,  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  its  sun-oundings.  •  The  style  of  the  build- 
ing is  a  modified  Gothic.  It  is  built  of  a  fine- 
grained, bluish  granite,  from  a  neighboring  quar- 
ry. It  has  a  length  of  one  hundred  and  ninety- 
two  feet  front,  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet 
depth,  sixty-two  feet  height  up  the  three  stories  and 
a  half  to  the  gable,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-five 
feet  to  the  top  of  the  tower.  Within,  the  school- 
rooms, chapel,  halls,  dormitories,  and  bath-rooms, 
are  models  of  convenient  arrangement.  Principal, 
Prof.  Wilkinson. 

Another  mile  and  we  cross  a  ravine,  bear  away  to 
the  left,  and  find  ourselves  on  the  grounds  of  the 
State  Universit}'  of  which  only  the  Mining  and 
Agricultural  College  Building  has  begun  to  take 
form.  The  site  is  the  finest  imaginable:  facing  the 
Golden  Gate,  the  bay  and  its  islands,  and  the 
"Golden  City"  beyond. 

Continuing  west  from  the  University  site,  we 
may  go  down  to  the  San  Pablo  road  and  return  to 
Oakland  by  a  different  route.  Approaching  the  cen- 
tre we  may  note  the  new  City  Hall,  delight  ourselves 
with  glances  down  the  broad  and  "tree-ful"  streets. 
Arrived  at  the  Market  street   station  we  take  the 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  211 

cars  south,  cross  the  San  Antonio  creek,  through 
Brooklyn  to  San  Leandro,  where  we  may  get  out 
and  take  another  train  to 

Hayvrard's, 

Six  miles  southeasterly  from  San  Leandro.  This 
is  a  new,  pleasantly-situated  and  rapidly-growing 
town,  the  shipping  point  for  a  large  agricultural 
region  around.  Here  see  the  grain  sheds,  run  out 
to  the  Brighton  cattle  market,  the  largest  in  the 
vState,  after  which  you  can  take  stage  six  miles  to 

Aivarado, 

And  there  inspect  the  salt  works,  but,  more  es- 
pecially, the 

Beet  Sugar  Works,  the  first  erected  and  oper- 
ated in  California,  and  regarded  as  the  pioneer  of 
an  extensive  and  valuable  industry.  From  Alvara- 
do  you  can  keep  on,  by  stage,  nine  miles  to  the 

Warm  Springs,  or  you  can  reach  these  by  driving 
to  Niles,  or  Decoto,  and  thence  ^taking  the  cars  of 
the  San  Jose  road.  These  springs  are  about  two 
miles  south  of  the  Old  Mission  San  Jose,  in  the 
midst  of  a  pleasant  grove  of  oak  and  other  trees, 
near  the  Agua  Caliente  (hot  water)  creek.  The 
waters  contain  lime,  sulphur,  magnesia,  and  iron, 
in  various  combinations.  Summer  guests  speak 
highly  of  the  neighboring  hotel. 


BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


■    From  the    springs   return  to  the   railroad,   and 
riding  eleven  miles,  enter  on 


rv.    The  San  Jose  Trip. 

which  begins  with 

San  Jose. 

The  county  seat  of  Santa  Clara  county ;  in  popula- 
tion the  fourth  city  of  the  State,  in  character  of 
population  one  of  the  first,  and  in  beautiful  sur- 
roundings the  gem  city.  It  has  a  fine  situa- 
tion, in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  valley,  and  a 
climate  so  healthy  that  many  people  affected  with 
lung  complaints  go  thither  to  live,  as  a  means  of 
cure.  Hundreds  from  San  Francisco  and  the  inter- 
mediate cities,  go  on  excursions  to  San  Jose  and 
vicinity  every  summer.  From  whatever  direction 
we  approach  San  Jose,  the  first  object  to  meet  the 
eye  is  the  lofty  dome  of  the 

CouET  HorsE.  Next  to  the  State  Capitol  at  Sac- 
ramento, this  is  the  finest  building  in  the  State. 
It  stands  on  the  tVest  side  of  First  street,  fronting 
St.  James  Square.  Its  architecture  is  Roman  Co- 
rinthian; its  dimensions,  one  hundred  feet  front, 
one  hundred  and  forty  feet  depth  ;  'height,  fifty-six 
feet  to  cornice ;  to  top  of  dome,  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  feet.  The  building  is  divided  into  two  lofty 
stories,  containing  the  principal  court  room,  sixty- 
five  feet  long,  forty-eight  feet  wide  and  thirty-eight 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  213 

feet  bigli,  with  twenty  large  and  elegant  rooms  for 
county  officials.  The  view  from  the  dome  is  alone 
worth  going  to  San  Jose  to  enjoy.  Whatever  else 
you  may  omit,  in  and  about  the  city,  do  not  omit 
this. 

The  State  Normal  School  Building.  Next  to  the 
Court  House, 'this  is  the  chief  object  of  interest. 
It  occupies  the  centre  of  Washington  Square,  faces 
west;  architecture,  Corinthian;  length,  two  hun- 
dred and  eighty-four  feet;  depth,  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet;  and  height  to  top  of  cornice,  seventy 
feet;  to  top  of  tower,  one  hundred  and  fifty-two 
feet ;  number-  of  stories,  four,  including  basement 
and  mansard  roof.  The-  Normal  Hall  is  ninety-one 
feet  long,  sixty-six  feet  wide,  and  forty  feet  high, 
accommodating  nine  hundred. 

AuzERAis  House.  Among  the  finest  buildings  in 
the  city,  and  the  best  hotel  south  of  San  Francisco, 
is  the  Auzerais  House.  For  first-class  hotel  accom- 
modations in  all  variety,  for  cordial  welcome  and 
courteous  service,  stop  here,  and  you  will  not  be 
disappointed  ;  especially  when  restfully  reclining 
in  the  charming  park  and  garden  attached  to  the 
house.  Rates,  usual  first-class;  from  $3.00  single 
day,  to  $20.00,  or  even  $15.00,  a  week,  with  lower 
rates  for  longer  times. 

New  York  Exchange  Hotel.  Corner  of  First 
and  St.  John's  streets,  ranking  next  to  the  Auze- 
rais, affords  excellent  rooms,  with  good  board  and 


214  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

attentive  service,  for  from  $2.00  a  day  to  $12.00  a 
week. 

If  you  want  to  ride  through  the  surrounding 
valley,  as  you  certainly  will,  after  looking  from  the 
court-house  dome,  go  to  Church  &  Wallace,  No. 
386  First  street,  who  will  have  a  capital  team  wait- 
ing for  you  at  the  station  if  you  merely  drop  them 
a  slight  hint  by  telegraph. 

Besides  the  public  buildings  already  named,  fine 
churches,  school  buildings,  business  blocks,*private 
residences  and  beautiful  gardens  well  repay  a  stroll 
through  this  queen  city  of  a  lovely  valley. 

Ne"w  Almaden. 

From  San  Jose,  take  one  of  Church  &  Wallace's 
teams,  and  drive  thirteen  miles  southerly  to  the 
celebrated 

Quicksilver  Mine,  named  for  the  famous  old  Al- 
maden mine,  in  Spain,  with  the  syllable,  *'  new," 
prefixed  by  way  of  distinction.  This  mine  is  over 
five  hundred  feet  deep,  and  employs  nearly  five 
hundred  men.  For  permission  to  enter,  apply  to 
J.  B.  Randol,  Esq.,  manager,  residing  at  New  Al- 
maden. If  you  prefer  to  go  out  by  public  convey- 
ance, a  stage  will  take  you  over  any  afternoon  at 
2.30  for  $1.50. 

Drive  back  to  San  Jose:  thence,  by  steam  car, 
horse  car  or  private  team,  go  over  three  miles  north 
to 


.    EXCURSION  ROUTES.  215 

Santa   Clara, 

A  pleasant,  qui^t  town,  clliefly  noted  for  the  Santa 
Clara  College  (Jesuit),  which  occupies  the  site  of 
the  old  mission,  which  was  really  the  germ  of  the 
town;  and  the  University  of  the  Pacific  (Methodist). 

Saratoga. 

Springs,  of  course,  ten  miles  southwest  of  San 
Jose,  from  which  daily  stage  carries  one  over  for 
$1.50.     These  springs  are  called  the 

Congress  Springs,  frord  the  resemblance  of  their 
water  to  that  of  the  original  and  famous  springs  of 
that  name  at  the  New  York  Saratoga.  They  are 
three  shallow  springs,  excavaied  in  the  sandstone, 
and  tasting  very  much  alike.  The  water  contains 
sulphates  and  carbonates  of  soda,  iron  and  lime, 
with  traces  of  magnesia.  It  is  very  refreshing  and 
healthful;  so  much  so  that  the  guests  at  the  neigh- 
boring hotel  annually  consume  increasing  quanti- 
ties, besides  the  thousand  bottles  sent  away  daily. 

Thence  back  to  San  Jose,  and,  after  a  good 
night's  rest,  set  forth  on  tour 

V.     Gilroy,  and  Points  South, 

and  the  places  for  which  it  is  the  starting  point. 

This  brisk  and  lively,  neat  and  thriving  town, 
we  beg  its  pardon,  city,  is  thirty-one  miles  south- 
east of  San  Jose,  from  which  one  reaches  it  by  the 


2i6  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE 

Southern  Pacific  Railroad  for  a  fare  of  $2.00.  This 
city  is  the  present  terminus  of  the  railroad,  and  the 
consequent  centre  from  which  radiate  the  various 
stage  routes  to  the  "lower  countr3\"  On  every 
hand  it  presents  evidences  of  business  prosperity 
and  rapid  growth.     Population,  over  two  thousand. 

Hot  Sj)ring — Fourteen  miles  northeast  of  Gil- 
roy,  in  a  small,  rocky  ravine  opening  into  Coyote 
Canon,  is  this  noted  sjDring.  Its  water  contains 
iron,  soda,  magnesia,  sulphur,  and  baryta,  and  has 
a  pungent  but  not  unpleasant  taste.  Throughout 
the  year  it  preserves  a  uniform  temj^erature  of  about 
one  hundred  and  ten  degrees.  Within  a  rod  of 
the  hot  spring  are  a  dozen  or  more  large  springs  of 
pure,  cold  water.  T^he  curative  properties  of  the 
water,  added  to  the  romantic  character  of  the  sur- 
rounding sceneiy,  have  caused  the  erection  of  a 
fine  hotel,  reached  by  regular  stages,  over  a  good 
road,  from  Gilroy. 

Some  twelve  miles  southwest  of  Gilroy,  one  may 
find,  in  the 

Pa j  arc  Valley, 

A.S  quiet  and  beautiful  an  agricultural  nook  as  the 
State 'affords.  For  a  quiet  retreat  in  some  hospita- 
ble farmhouse,  with  a  good  chance  for  small  game, 
for  a  day  or  two,  this  snug  valley  will  decidedly 
"fill  the  bill."  Its  blac*k  soil,  famous  potatoes, 
and  charming  little  branch  canons  will  dispose  a 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  217 

farmer,  or  a  hunter,  or  a  painter  to  stay  as  long  as 
possible.  When  yon  have  rusticated  as  long  as  you 
can  in  the  romantic  vicinity  of  Gilroy,  and  are  ready, 
though  unwilling,  to  go,  you  can  return  b}^  the  way 
you  came,  if  you  like;  but,  if  time  permits,  and  you 
wish  to  see  one  of  the  pleasantest  sections  of  the 
State,  you  will  take  stage  through  Hollister  and 

San  Juan, 

A  quiet  little  town,  old  and  quaint,  and  chiefly 
notable  for  its  early  mission,  founded  in  1797,  to 

Monterey, 

The  first  capital  of  California,  and  noted,  also,  as 
the  place  where  the  American  flag  was  first  raised 
in  California,  by  Com.  Sloat,  July  7th,  1846.  Here 
•one  may  see  plenty  of  the  old  adobe  houses,  with 
tiled  roofs,  built  in  the  primitive  Mexican  style. 
From  Monterey,  you  may  come  up  the  coast,  by 
water,  or  go  back  to  San  Juan,  and  thence  take 
stage  to  Watsonville,  near  the  seaward  end  of  the 
beautiful  Pajaro  Valley,  and  come  through  to 

VI.  Santa  Cruz,  and  Up  tiie  Coast. 
Beyond  comparison  the  most  delightful  among  the 
smaller  towns  of  the  State.  In  fact  it  is  the  occi- 
dental Newport,  the  Pacific  Nahant,  where  languid 
fashion  and  exhausted  business  most  do  congregate. 
Here  land  and  water  meet,  present  the  best  beauty 


2i8  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

of  each,  and  combine  to  proffer  new  ones  impossi- 
ble to  eitber  alone.  Rid^s,  rambles  and  drives, 
swims  and  sails,  picnics  and  chowder-parties,  ex- 
cellent hotel  accommodations,  and  plenty  of  good 
comjDany,  furnish  the  material  for  as  varied  enjoy- 
ment, and  as  much  of  it,  as  any  one  of  ordinary 
constitution  can  stand.  The  way  of  approach  which 
we  have  mentioned,  is  comparatively  rare.  The  ■ 
most  noted  route  is  from  Santa  Clara  by  daily  stage, 
thirty  miles;   fare,  $3.20. 

When  you  have  sufficiently  enjoyed  Santa  Cruz 
and  its  beautiful  surroundings,  you  may  take  the 
stage  any  Monday,  Wednesday  or  Friday  morning, 
at  eight  o'clock,  for  a 

Rids  Up  the  Coast 

Eight  miles  north  we  pass  Laguna  Creek,  noted* 
for  good  fishing,  while  its  vicinity  proffers  fine 
shooting,  both  of  which  attractions  have  combined 
to  make  it  a  favorite  camping-ground  for  picnic 
parties. 

Nearly  three  miles  further,  William's  Landing 
gives  you  the  first  chance  to  witness  "  hawser-ship- 
ping",  an  ingenious  de\ice  for  getting  produce,  or 
any  form  of  merchandise,  into  a  boat,  or  upon  the 
deck  of  a  vessel  when  the  surf  is  too  rough  to  per- 
mit the  landing  of  a  boat  or  the  continuance  of  a 
pier.  Thus  art  makes  a  "  port"  for  loading  or  dis- 
charging where  niature  forbids  the  construction  of 
the  ordinaiy  facilities. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  219 

Three  and  a  half  miles  brings  us  to  Davenport's 
Landing,  an  open  roadsi^ad,  famous  for  the  longest 
pier  running  out  into  the  open  ocean,  of  any  place 
on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Thence  two  miles,  to  the  beautiful  laurel  groves 
and  camping  -grounds  of  Scott's  Creek.  Nearly 
one  hundred  and  fifty  deer  have  been  killed  in  this 
neighborhood  in  one  season. 

Four  miles  more,  and  Frogtown  welcomes  us. 
Here  David  Post  proves  himself  posted  in  the  pro- 
viding of  "  good  square"  meals;  in  fact,  he's  just 
the  David  who  can  slay  the  Goliah  of  hunger, 
though,  instead  of  hitting  one  in  the  middle  of  the 
forehead,  he  commonly  aims  about  an  inch  below 
the  nose. 

Waddell's  Wharf  is  three  miles  further.  Thence, 
by  Steel's  Ranch  and  White  House  Ranch  to 

Pigeon  Point. 

On  the  coast,  about  ten  miles  from  Frogtown, 
thii'ty-one  from  Santa  Cruz,  and  seven  from 
Pescadero.  This  is  important  to  all  the  neigh- 
boring inhabitants,  because  it  is  their  shipping 
point,  where  one  may  witness  the  ' '  hawser-pier"  in 
its  glory;  and  interesting  to  the  tourist,  because  it 
i&a  whaling  station,  and  the  only  one  on  the  coast 
which  he  will  be  likely  to  see.  A  colony  of  Portu- 
guese do  the  whaling.  They  go  out  in  large  open 
boats,  six  men  to  a  boat,  and  shoot  the  harpoon 


220  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE.    ■ 

into  the  whale  from  the  harpoon-gun.  One  may 
sometimes  see  a  dozen  or  more  whales  at  once,  roll- 
ing and  spouting,  or  "blowing,"  in  the  offing. 

Seven-miles  further,  and  our  journey  ends,  or,  at 
least,  this  particular  stage-route  ends  in 

Pescadero. 

Ho  for  Pescadero  and  the  famous  Pebble  Beach! 
By  rail  from  San  Francisco  to  San  Mateo,  twenty 
miles  south,  thence  by  Troy  coaches  over  a  new  toll 
road,  to  Pescadero,  thirty  miles.  Total  distance, 
fifty  miles.  Time:  to  San  Mateo,  one  houi*,  thence 
to  Pescadero,  four  and  a  half  hours.  Fare:  to  San 
Mateo,  $1.00,  thence  to  Pescadero,  |2.85. 

Leaving  San  Mateo,  the  road  winds  through  beau- 
tiful scenery  to  the  summit  of  the  Santa  Cruz 
mountains,  which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Bay 
from  those  of  the  ocean.  The  summit^s  eight  miles 
from  San  Mateo  and  affords  a  ^^ew  of  great  extent, 
embracing  the  long  coast  line  on  the  west,  white 
with  the  surf  of  breakers,  and  the  broad  expanse  of 
the  Bay  on  the  east,  ^^th  the  Diablo  range  of 
mountains  bounding  the  hoiizon. 

From  the  summit,  it  is  four  miles  to  the  old-fash- 
ioned pueblo  of  Spanishtown,  nestled  in  a  little 
dell  opening  out  on  Half-Moon  Bay.  Thence  four 
miles  to  Purissima,  another  coast  town,  near  which 
an  isolated,  rounded  peak,  called  Ball  Knob,  rises 
conspicuously  above  the  surrounding  hills.     From 


EXCURSION  ROUTES. 


Purissima,  a  drive  of  twelve  miles  along,  or  in  sight 
of,  the  beach,  brings  us  to  our  destination. 

Pescadero,  is  the  Spanish  for  fisherman,  from 
pescado,  fish.  The  town  is  situated  near  the  mouth 
of  Pescadero  creek,  so  named,  probably,  from  the 
abundance  of  trout  which  swarm  in  its  pools  and 
eddys.  The  village  is  about  a  mile  from  the  beach, 
in  a  sheltered  depression,  affording  a  charming  and 
secluded  retreat  for  pleasure  seekers  and  invalids. 
The  tourist  will  find  good  hotel  and  stabling  accom- 
modations, among  the  best  of  which  are  the  Lincoln 
hotel  and  stables,  under  the  charge  of  Capt.  Kin- 
sey. 

Prominent  among  the  objects  of  interest  around 
Pescadero,  is  the  celebrated  Pebble  Beach,  three 
miles  south.  Here  may  be  seen  ladies,  gentlemen, 
and  children,  on  a  warm  summer  day,  down  on 
their  hands  ailR  knees,  searching  for  curious  and 
pretty  little  pebbles  of  every  hue  and  shape.  The 
supply  is  never  exhausted,  for  every  storm  casts  up 
a  new  store  of  treasures.  Pebbles  of  sufficient 
beauty  and  value  to  be  set  in  brooches  and  rings, 
have  been  discovered  here. 

The  Shell  Beach  is  two  miles  fui-ther  on,  being 
five  miles  from  the  hotel,  and  affords  a  great  deal 
of  variety  to  the  beach  hunters. 

The  Moss  Beach  is  twelve  miles  south,  and  here 
the  lovers  of  the  most  beautiful,  fanciful  and  deli- 


222  BANCROhT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

cate  combinations  of  colors  and  fibres,  peculiar  to 
sea  mosses,  can  revel  to  their  hearts'  content. 

The  other  objects  of  interest  along  the  coast,  are 
Sea  Lion  Kocks,  two  miles  west  of  the  hotel,  being, 
as  the  name  suggests,  a  large  rock  coyered  with  sea 
lions. 

Marble  Bath  Tubs,  five  miles  south.  These  are 
excavations  in  the  solid  rock,  in  the  shape  of  bath 
tubs,  some  of  natural  and  some  of  colossal  size. 

Pescadero  Creek,  as  above  intimated,  is  a  noted 
trouting  stream.  A  beautiful  drive  of  six  miles  up 
the  creek,  brings  us  to  the  Mineral  Springs,  and 
two  miles  further,  is  a  forest  of  Big  Trees,  some  of 
which  are  said  to  be  fifty  feet  in  circumference. 
In  their  vicinity  are  thi-ee  shingle  mills. 

One  mile  west  of  the  town,  is  a  so-called  Indian 
Mound,  from  the  summit  of  which  a  fine  ^dew  is  ob- 
tained. • 

The  Butano  Falls  seven  miles  distant,  on  Butano 
Creek,  consists  of  a  succession  of  cascades,  over 
thirty  feet  high,  located  in  a  deep  rapine,  sur- 
rounded by  romantic  sceneiy. 

T'rom  Pescadero,  we  may  keep  on  up  the  coast, 
any  Monday,  Wednesday  or  Friday  morning, 
through  San  Gregorio,  Purissima,  and  other  quiet 
little  towns,  through  a  beautiful  countij,  over  high 
hills  and  bluffs  bordering  on  the  beach,  and  afford- 
ing' most  magnificent  ocean  views,  eighteen  miles, 
to'SiDanishtown,  or 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  223 

Half  Moon  Bay. 

The  shipping-point  of  a  fertile  region  lying 
in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  extending  back  into 
branching  valleys. 

From  this  place  the  road  leaves  the  coast,  climbs 
the  hills,  by  a  winding  and  well-cut  grade,  to  a 
height  of  eight  hundred  feet,  whence  one  enjoys  a 
combination  of  bay,  ocean,  hill  and  valley  scenery 
rarely  equaled.  Upon  this  summit  we  pass,  for 
convenience'  sake,  to 

Crystal  Springs  and  San  Mateo  County, 

and,  after  enjoying  four  miles  of  charming  views, 
while  winding  down  the  western  slopes,  we  reach 

Crystal  Springs,  where  a  number  of  cold,  clear 
springs  break  through  the  rocks,  in  a  romantic 
canon,  forming  so  attractive  a  spot  for  summer 
recreation  that  a  large  and  fine  hotel  has  been  built 
and  well  sustained.  The  neighboring  roads  are 
good,  the  tramps  endless",  and  game  encouragingly 
plentiful.  Thence  four  miles  of  delightful  road 
brings  us  to  • 

San  Mateo, 

And  the  iron  track  again.  This  is  a  beautiful 
little  town,  made  expressly  for  homes.  Sev- 
eral prominent  San  Francisco  merchants  have 
here  hidden  their  country  residences  away  among 
oak  groves  so  snugly  that  one  must  know  exactly 


224  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

where  theyare,  and  even  then  be  close  upon  them, 
before  he  would  begin  to  suspect  their  number, 
their  beauty,  and  their  comfort. 

From  this  place,  it  is  worth  one's  while  to  drive  or 
ride  four  miles  down  to 

Belmont, 

Noted  as  a  favorite  picnic  ground  for  large 
Sunday  school  and  society  excursions,  chiefly 
from  San  Francisco,  and  as  the  residence  of  Wm. 
C.  Kalston,  Esq.,  whose  country  seat,  in  beauty  of 
location,  extent  of  accommodations,  with  variety 
and  completeness  of  appointments,  happily  com- 
bines the  elegance  of  a  palace  with  the  simplicity 
and  comfoii  of  a  home.  Many  a  distinguished  east- 
em  visitor  warmly  remembers  the  generous  hospi- 
tality of  that  *'  home  behind  the  hill." 

From  Belmont,  it  is  but  three  miles  and  a  quar- 
ter to 

Redwood  City, 

The  county  seat  of  San  Mateo  county,  on  a  nav- 
igable slough  leading  into  the  bay.  Its  chief  in- 
dustry is  the  hauling  from  the  hills  and  shipping 
from  the  wharves  the  redwood  lumber,  whose  abun- 
dance has  named  the  town.  It  has  a  good  hotel — 
the  American  House.  Four  miles  south  of  Ked- 
wood  City, 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  225 


Meulo  Park 

Terminates  our  excursion  in  this  direction.  The 
attractions  of  this  place  are  the  fine  residences  of 
San  Francisco  merchants,  surrounded  by  noble 
oaks,  which,  scattered  and  grouped  over  a  square 
mile  or  two,  hereabout,  have  furnished  half  the  name 
of  the  place.  Nature  made  it  a  ''  Park ;  "  man  add- 
ed the  ''Menlo." 

Here  we  may  take  tha  cars  again,  and  after  a  ride 
of  thirty -two  miles,  first  passing,  in  reverse  order, 
through  the  three  towns  just  named,  with  Millbrae, 
the  elegant  home  of  D.  O.  Mills,  Esq.,  San  Bruno, 
T^welve  Mile  Farm,  Schoolhouse  Station  and  San 
IV:Rguel,  we  complete  the  southern  tour  around  the 
bay  and  along  the  coast,  and  again  commit  our- 
selves for  a  time  to  the  whirl  and  dust  and  bustle 
of  the  metropolis. 

Having  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  dash  of  city 
life  again  for  a  day  or  two,  we  are  off  for  the  north- 
ern circuit,  including  San  Rafael,  Mt.  Tamalpais, 
San  Quentin,  State  Prison,  and  Saucelito.  No.  9: 
Petaluma,  Santa  Rosa,  Healdsburg,  the  Geysers, 
and  Clear  Lake,  with  Sonoma  and  its  vineyards, 
we  complete  No.  10  with  Vallejo,  Mare  Island,  the 
U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  .Napa,  Napa  Valley,  Oak  Knoll 
and  Calistoga.  We  come  back  down  the  valley  to 
Vallejo,  whence  McCue's  stages  take  us  to  Benicia, 
seven  and  a  half  miles. 


226  BANCROFT' S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

[  For  particulars  of  above  three  trips,  see  Ban- 
croft's Tourist's  Guide — Geysers.] 

11.     Mt.  Diablo  Trip. 

Across  the  sti-ait  of  Carquinez  from  Benicia,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  steam  ferry,  lies 

Martinez, 

The  county  seat  of  Contra  Costa  county.  The 
town  has  a  picturesque  situation,  sevei*al  pleasant 
residences,  very  beautiful  surroundings,  and  a 
charming  climate.  The  celebrated  Alhambra  ranch, 
which  has  taken  several  medals  as  the  best  cul- 
tivated farm,  yielding  the  best  fruits,  and  the  b^t 
native  wine  in  the  State,  lies  but  a  shoi-t  distaiftje 
hence.  Five  miles  back  from  Maiiinez  and  the  bay, 
connected  with  the  former  by  stage  and  vdth  the  lat- 
ter by  a  navigable  creek,  stands 

Pacheco, 

A  quiet,  pleasant,  country  town,  noted  as  the 
shipping  point  of  the  broad  and  fertile  agricul- 
tural fields  of  the  Diablo  and  San  Ramon  valleys, 
lying  around  and  beyond  it.  The  manufactui-e  of 
caiTiages  and  agricultural  implements  also  conduce 
to  its  prosperity  and  importance.  Another  daily 
stage  line  also  connects  this  town  with  Oakland. 

Eight  miles    beyond   Pacheco,    further  iji   and 
higher  up,  is 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  227 

Clayton, 

The  largest  and  most  romanticaUy  situated  town 
in  this  part  of  the  State,  and  in  the  latter  par- 
ticular, surpassed  by  few  on  the  coast.  Occu- 
pying an  elevated  bench,  or  plateau,  it  com- 
mands fine  views,  and  having  many  wide-spread- 
ing oaks  scattered  through  and  around,  it  posesses 
much  intrinsic  beauty.  Mr.  Clayton,  whose  name 
the  town  has  taken,  has  a  vineyard  of  nearly  forty 
thousand  vines,  which,  though  never  irrigated,  are 
vigorous  and  prolific.  *He  sends  his  excellent 
grapes  directly  to  San  Francisco,  for  the  immedi- 
ate market  which  they  are  sure  to  command,  and 
thus  realizes  a  greater  profit  than  by  making  them 
into  wine.  Other  vineyards  and  orchards  in  this 
vicinity  have  over  one  hundred  thousand  vines,  and 
nearly  forty  thousand  fruit  trees.  Clayton  is  the 
usual  point  of  departure  for  the  ascent  of 

Mount  Diablo, 

Three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  seventy-six 
feet  high,  and  christened  with  its  infernal  ap- 
pellation because,  like  its  satanic  prototype,  it 
seldom  lets  men  out  of  its  sight.  The  best  time 
to  climb  the  mountain  is  early  in  the  morning — the 
earlier  the  better.  If  one  can  stand  on  the  summit 
at  sunrise  he  will  receive  the  most  ample  reward 
for  his  early  rising.     The  distance  from  Clayton  up 


228  BANCROFT'S  TOURISTS  GUIDE. 

is  eight  miles;  tlie  time  occupied  by  a  comfortable 
ascent  is  a  little  over  two  lioui-s.  If  there  are  ladies, 
or  persons  unused  to  riding  and  climbing,  the  party 
should  allow  a  good  three  hours.  The  Clayton 
livery  stable  furnishes  trained  saddle  horses  for 
$2.50  a  day.  The  expense  of  a  guide,  who  fur- 
nishes his  own  horse,  is  $4.00  for  the  trip,  which, 
of  course,  as  in  Yosemite,  is  usually  divided  among 
the  party.  Though  not  absolutely  necessary  to 
•  employ  a  guide,  it  is  decidedly  safer  and  better, 
especially  if  the  party  includes  ladies,  as  the  trail 
is  in  some  places  difficult,  and  even  dangerous  to 
strangers.  The  first  four  miles  south  from  Clay- 
ton a  good  carriage-road  follows  the  course  of  a 
stream  through  a  deep  canon.  Over  this  part, 
ladies  unused  to  the  saddle,  and  desiring  to  avoid 
unnecessary  fatigue,  would  better  ride  on  wheels. 
At  the  end  of  this  road,  n,ear  a  farm-house,  the 
tourist  turns  to  the  right,  and  follows  a  cut  trail 
westerly  to  Deer  Flat,  where  are  two  huts  and  a 
spring.  Beyond  Deer  Flat,  the  trail  runs  south- 
easterly to  the  top  of  a  ridge  in  sight  of  the  flat 
below,  and  thence  lies  along  the  top  of  this  ridge, 
two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  summit,  where,  for  the 
first  time  in  his  life,  probably,  the  traveler  may  get 
the  deril  f aMy  under  his  feet — or  at  least  the  devil's 
mountain. 

In  the  opinion  of  most  tourists,  this  peak  com- 
mands a  more  extensive,  varied',  and  beautiful  pros- 


*!' 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  229 

pect  than  any  equal  elevation  in  the  world.  The 
mountain  has  two  peaks,  lying  in  a  northeast  and 
southwest  line,  nearly  three  miles  apart.  The 
southwestern  one  is  the  higher,  and  possesses  sci- 
entific or  topographical  interest,  from  the  fact  that 
the  State  Survey  made  it  one  of  the  three  "  initial 
points,"  from  which  they  ran  the  "  base  lines"  and 
"meridian  lines,"  from  which  or  by  which  the 
townships  and  sections  are  reckoned  and  located  in 
all  extensive  conveyances  of  land.  This  mountain 
has  an  additional  claim  to  its  sulphurous  surname, 
from  the  fact  that  it  is  supposed  to  have  been, 
formerly,  a  volc^o. 

Looking  east  upon  a  clear  day,  or  with  the  good 
field  glass  which  some  one  of  the  party  has  thought- 
fully provided,  you  may  see  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
sometimes  the  Farallone  Islands,  San  Francisco, 
the  bay,  the  Golden  Gate,  Mt.  Tamalpais,  the  Pet- 
aluma,  Sonoma  and  Napa  Valleys,  San  Pablo  and 
Suisun  Bays,  Vallejo,  Navy  Yard,  Benicia,  the  Sac- 
ramento and  San  Joaquin  Yaileys,  with  the  tortu- 
ous windings  of  their  serpentine  rivers,  creeks  and 
sloughs,  Stockton  and  Sacramento  cities,  the  Ma- 
rysville  Buttes,  and  the  snow-capped  Sierras  be- 
yond all;  while  away  to  the  southwest  the  quiet 
Santa  Clara  valley  completes  the  magnificent  sweep 
of  the  glorious  panorama,  unrolled  for  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  around. 

If  any  of  the  party  feel  like  sermonizing,  the  text 


230  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

will  readily  occur  to  you :  ' '  Then  the  Devil' taketh  him 
up  into  an  exceeding  high  mountain,  and  showeth 
him  all  the  kingdoms  of  the  world,  and  the  glory 
of  them,  and  saith  unto  him:  '  All  these  things  will 
I  give  thee  if  thou  wilt  fall  down  and  worship  me," 
As  for  his  proposition  to  *'  fall  down,"  w^e  have 
only  to  remark,  "Beloved  hearers ! don't  you  do  it, 
for  the  devil  or  any  other  man;"  you'd  break  your 
necks  as  sure  as  you  tried  it.  Better  sit  dow^n  in 
one  of  the  sheltered  nooks  in  the  lee  below  the 
summit,  eat  your  lunch  and  prepare  for  the  de- 
scent. 

We  may  easily  return  to  Clayton  in  time  to  ^isit 
the  * 

Black  Diamond  Coal  Mines, 

At  Noi-tonville,  six  miles  distant,  over  a  good  road, 
through  a  rugged,  mountainous  and  picturesque 
region.  The  tunnels  enter  the  northeast  side  of 
the  mountain,  descend  nearly  three  hundred  feet 
southwesterly,  whence  one  level  follows  a  three- 
foot-thick  seam,  a  good  half  mile  northw^esterly. 
Two  main  seams  are  worked  at  present,  one  four 
feet  and  the  other  about  three  feet  thick.  They 
dip  easterly,  or  northeasterly.  The  mine  is  very 
neat,  and  even  cleanly,  for  a  coal  mine,  so  that  one 
could  wear  down  an  ordinary  suit  without  harmful 
soiling. 

The  railroad  from  the  mine  to  the  pier,  five  miles 
and  a  half  below,  whither  iron  cars,  propelled  by 


.* 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  23 1 

gravity,  can  aarry  three  thousand  tons  per  day,  is 
chiefly  remarkable  for  its  unusual  grade  down  the 
first  mile  and  a  half,  through  which  the  descent  is 
two  hundred  and  seventy-four  feet  to  the  mile.  To 
meet  this  unusual,  but  unavoidable  necessity,  heavy 
locomotives,  of  peculiar  design  and  construction, 
were  invented  and  built  at  San  Francisco.  They 
weigh  twenty  tons,  have  three  pairs  of  thirty-six- 
inch  driving  wheels,  with  complex  and  powerful 
brakes  for  the  enormous  friction  necessary. 

From  these  mines  one  may  descend  by  the  rail- 
road already  described,  to  New  York  Landing, 
whence  the  regular  Stockton  steamer  will  transport 
him  thither,  or  return  him  to  San  Francisco,  the 
tourist's  grand  base  of  supplies,  and  point  of  de- 
parture for  nearly  all  the  more  notable  excursions 
about  the  State  and  the  coast. 

12.    Sacramento,  Stockton,  and  the  Lakes. 

To  the  eleven  tours  already  detailed,  one  may, 
or  even  must,  add  a  twelfth,  which  is  separated 
from  the  t)thers,  and  added,  in  conclusion,  because 
it  consists  of  cities  and  places  lying  on  or  near  the 
great  overland  route  by  which  every  tourist  will  be 
almost  certain  to  enter  or  leave  the  State ;  in  most 
cases,  both.  These  are  the  capital  city,  Sacramen- 
to ;  the  San  Joaquin  county  seat,  Stockton ;  with 
Lake  Tahoe  and  Donner  lake.  One  may  stop  to 
see  these  as  he  comes  or  goes,  or  may  make  them 


232  BANCROFT'S   TOURISTS  GUIDE, 

the  objects  of  a  special  excursion,  of  ^ich  the  two 
lakes,  especially  Tahoe,  are  notably  worthy. 

Sacramento. 

At  the  time  of  the  American  occupation  of  Cal- 
ifornia, and  for  some  time  previous,  the  present 
site  of  this  city  was  called  the  "  Embarcadero ; " 
that  is,  in  Si)anish,  simply  "  the  wharf,  or  the 
landing-place,"  though  it  strictly  means  the  ship- 
ping-place. 

Gen.  Jno.  A.  Sutter  came  from  New  Mexico  and 
settled  here  in  August,  1839.  The  next  year  the 
Mexican  Government  granted  him  the  land  on 
which  he  had  "located."  '  He  accordingly  built  a 
fort  and  gave  himself  to  stock  raising,  agriculture, 
and  trade.  Thenceforward  for  several  years  the 
place  was  known  only  as  "  Sutter's  Fort."  In 
July,  1845,  Gen.  Sutter  engaged  the  service  of  Jas. 
W.  Marshall,  as  a  sort  of  agent,  or  manager.  This 
man  became  the  discoverer  of  gold  in  the  following 
accidental  manner:  In  September,  1847,  he  went 
up  some  fifty  miles  from  the  fort,  upon  the  south 
fork  of  the  American  river,  to  construct  a  sawmill, 
which,  in  due  time,  with  one  single,  most  fortu- 
nate blunder,  he  accomplished.  The  blunder  was 
this :  when  the  water,  was  let  on,  the  tail-race 
proved  too  naiTow  and  too  shallow.  To  widen  and 
deepen  it  in  the  quickest  and  cheapest  way,  he  let 
through  a  strong  current  of   water,  which  swept  a 


EXCURSION  ROUTER.  233 

mass  of  mud  and  gravel  down  to  and  beyond  the 
lower  end. 

January  19th,  1848,  the  birth-day  of  the  "Gold- 
en Age "  in  California,  Marshall  noticed  several 
yellowish  particles  shining  out  from  this  mud  and 
gravel.  He  was,  naturally,  curious  enough  to  col- 
lect and  examine  them.  He  called  five  carpenters 
who  were  at  work  on  the  mill,  to  join  their  judg- 
ments with  his.  They  talked  over  the  possibility 
of  its  being  gold,  but  seem  to  have  thought  it  so 
little  probable  J  that  they  quietly  returned  to  their 
usual  work.  Among  the  larger  pieces  of  "yellow 
stuff''  , which  Marshall  picked  up  that  day,  was  a 
pebble  weighing  six  *  pennyweights  and  eleven 
grains.  He  gave  it  to  the.  nearest  housekeeper, 
Mrs.  Weimer,  and  asked  her  to  boil  it  in  saleratus 
water  and  see  what  would  come  of  it.  She  was 
making  soap  at  the  time,  and  thinking  the  lye 
would  proye  stronger  than  simple  saleratus  water, 
she  immediately  pitched  it  into  the  soaj)  kettle, 
from  which  it  was  fished  oat  the  next  day,  and 
found  all  the  brighter  for  its  long  boiling. 

Two  weeks  later,  Marshall  brought  the  speci- 
mens down  to  the  fort  and  gave  them  to  Sutter  to 
have  them  tested.  Before  the  General  had  quite 
made  up  his  mind  as  to  whether  they  were  certain- 
ly gold  or  not,  he  went  up  to  the  mill,  and,  with 
Marshall,  made  a  treaty  with  the  Indians,  buying 
their  titles  to  all  the  surrounding  country.     The 


234  BANCROI^T'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

little  cii'cle  that  knew  it,  tried  to  keep  tlie  matter 
secret,  but  it  soon  leaked  out,  and  though  not  sure 
of  its  real  nature,  several  began  to  hunt  the  yellow 
stuff  that  might  prove  the  king  of  metals. 

The  next  month,  Febi-uary,  one  of  the  party  car- 
ried some  of  the  dust  down  to  Yerba  Buena  (San 
Francisco).  Here  he  providentially  met  Isaac 
Humphrey,  an  old  Georgia  gold  miner,  who,  upon 
his  first  look  at  the  specimens,  said  they  were  gold, 
and  that  the  diggings  must  be  rich.  He  tried  to 
persuade  some  of  his  friends  to  go  up  to  the  mill 
with  him,  but  they  thought  it  only  a  crazy  expedi- 
tion, and  let  him  go  alone.  Mr.  Humphrey  reached 
the  mill  March  7th.  Only  a  few  were  lazily  hunt- 
ing for  gold;  there  was  no  excitement;  the  most  of 
the  men  were  working  in  the  mill  as  usual.  Next 
day  he  began  "  prospecting,"  and  quickly  satisfied 
himself  that  he  had  "  struck  it  rich."  He  returned 
to  the  mill,  made  a  "  rocker,"  and  immediately 
commenced  placer  mining  in  dead  earnest. 

A  few  days  later,  Baptiste,  a  Frenchman,  who 
had  mined  in  Mexico,  left  the  lumber  he  was  saw- 
ing for  Sutter,  at  Weber's,  ten  miles  east  of  Colo- 
ma,  and  came  over  to  the  mill.  He  agreed  with 
Humphrey  that  the  region  was  rich,  furnished  him- 
self with  rocker  and  pan,  and  forthwith  began  to 
develop  the  shining  wealth,  beside  which  mills, 
lumber,  ranches,  flocks,  and  crops  were  of  small 
account.     So  these  two  men,  Humphrey  and  Bap- 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  235 

tiste,  became  tlie  pioneer  gold-miners  of  California, 
and  the  first  practical  teachers  of  placer  mining. 
The  lumbermen  around*  crowded  in  to  see  how  they 
did  it.  The  process  was  simple,  the  teachers  were 
obliging,  the  lesson  easy,  the  result  sure  and 
speedy  wealth. 

They  soon  located  ''claims"  all  about,  began  to 
hoard  their  "  piles,"  and  Sutter's  Fort,  as  the  place 
through  ^hich  all  new  comers  passed,  began  a 
rapid  growth,  which  proved  the  origin  and  nucleus 
of  the  present  capital  of  California. 

The  Sacramento  of  to-day  stands  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Sacramento  Kiver,  about  one  mile  below 
the  junction  of  the  American  River,  and  at  the 
head  of  tide  navigation. 

Ne:5:t  to  San  Francisco,  it  is  the  largest  city  in 
the  State,  having  a  population  of  twenty  thousand. 

It  owes  its  importance  chiefly  to  four  things : 

1st.  Its  central  position,  in  the  midst  of  the  fin- 
est agricultural  region  of  the  State. 

2d.  Its  situation  at  the  head  of  tide  water  on  the 
largest  river  of  the  State. 

3d.  It  is  the  great  railroad  centre.  Four  leading 
roads  terminate  there. 

4th.  It  is  the  political  capital,  having  become  so 
in  1854. 

The  city  was  originally  built  on  ground  so  low 
and  level  that  the  heavy  floods  have  twice  broken 
through  the  levee  and  nearly  destroyed  the  town. 


236  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

The  two  great  floods  were  tliose  of  1851-2  and 
1861-2.  Thus,  by  sheer  necessity  of  self-preserva- 
tion, the  inhabitants  have  teen  compelled  to  raise 
the  grade  of  all  the  streets,  and,  in  fact,  of  almost 
the  whole  city,  nearly  ten  feet  above  the  original 
level. 

Sacramento  has  fine  schools  and  churches,  while 
the  gardens^  and  shinibbery  about  the  houses,  com- 
bined with  the  trees  along  the  streets,*  give  it  a 
most  refreshing,  home-like,  and  attractive  appear- 
ance. Beyond  the  depots,  immense  foundries  and 
machine  shops  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  the 
city  presents  the  single  great  attraction  of  the 

State  Capitol,  an  immense  building  occupying 
the  centre  of  four  blocks,  bounded  by  L  and  N 
streets  on  the  north  and  south,  and  by  Twelfth  and 
Tenth  streets  on  the  east  and  west.  These  four 
blocks  were  a  gift  from  the  city  to  the  State.  The 
building  faces  west,  fronting  three  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  on  Tenth  street,  while  its  two  wings 
run  back  along  L  and  N  streets,  one  hundred  and 
sixty-four  feet  upon  each .  Its  height  is  eighty  feet, 
divided  into  three  lofty  stories.  The  lower  story  is 
granite ;  those  above,  brick.  The  main  entrance  is 
approached  by  granite  steps,  twenty-fi.ve  feet  high 
and  eighty  feet  wide.  The  style  of  architecture  is 
composite — the  Roman  Corinthian.  The  building 
was  begun  ten  years  ago,  has  been  steadily  carried 
on  since,  and  will  probably  require  two  or  three 
years  longer  for  its  full  completion. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  237 

The  Interior. — Entering  tlie  vestibule,  we  find 
ourselves  in  a  hall  twenty  feet  deep,  seventy-three 
feet  wide,  an^  having  broad  stairs  on  either  hand.  • 
From  the  vestibule  a  broad  and  high-arched  door- 
way, admits  us  to  the 

Eotunda,  seventy-two  feet  in  diameter,  and  ris- 
ing through  the  height  of  the  first  dome.  In  the 
wall,  between  the  openings  of  the  different  broad 
halls,  are  four  niches  to  be  filled  by  statues  of 
"Washington,  Lincoln,  a  pioneer  miner,  and  a  pio- 
neer hunter,  one  half  larger  than  life.  Above 
these  niches  and  the  hall  entrances,  will  be  eight 
panels,  each  thirteen  feet  by  six,  with  stucco  frames 
for  frescoes.  Directly  over  each  of  these  will  be  a 
round  panel  for  similar  purposes,  and  with  similar 
ornamentation.  Above  these  circular  panels,  will 
be  a  row  of  thirteen  sunken  panels,  each  thirteen 
by  eight  and  a  half  feet,  to  be  filled  with  pictures  ; 
and  over  these,  still  higher  up,  a  tier  of  frames, 
each  ten  by  sixteen  feet,  numbering  sixteen  in  all, 
and  also  intended  for  paintings.  The  frames  of 
these  last  extend  clear  to  the  bottom  of  the  sky- 
light, and  are  to  be  painted  red,  white  and  blue, 
successively,  thus  2^resenting  from  below  a  huge 
sixteen  pointed  star  of  the  national  colors. 

The  First  Story  is  twenty-one  and  a  half  feet 
high.  From  the  right  of  the  rotunda,  a  hall  six- 
teen feet  wide,  leads  south  through  the  centre  of 
that  wing.     First,  on  the  right,  are  the  Secretary  of 


238  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

State's  two  rooms,  twenty-nine  feet  wide,  and  hav- 
ing a  united  length  of  forty-seven  feet,  elegantly 
finished  and  furnished.  Beyond  these,  in  the  south- 
west corner,  is  a  reception,  or  committee  room, 
twenty-seven  by  thirty,  while  the  other  corner  has 
a  like  space  divided  into  two  rooms  for  similar  pur- 
poses. Opposite  the  Secretary's  is  the  "Chief  Jus- 
tice's room.  As  we  may  not  have  time  to  descend 
to  and  describe  the  lower  or  ground  floor,  we  may 
here  say  that  its  space  is  mainly  occupied  by  the 
Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court.  In  the  north  wing 
we  have  a  similar  arrangement  of  rooms,  and  to  be 
occupied  by  the  State  Treasurer,  Controller,  Attor- 
ney-General, Board  of  Education,  besides  two  yet 
unassigned. 

Keturning  to  the  rotunda,  and  going  east,  we 
enter  the 

Supreme  Court  Room,  occupying  a  circular  or 
ellipsoidal  projection  built  out  from  the  east  side 
of  the  building  between  the  two  wings.  The  room 
is  fifty-eight  by  forty-six  feet,  lofty  and  well-lighted. 
Thence,  crossing  a  hall  on  the  southwest,  one  en- 
ters the  Supreme  Court  Library  Room,  twenty-eight 
by  thirty-three  feet,  and  containing  four  thousand 
volumes. 

The  Second  Floor  has  a  height  of  twenty  feet 
clear,  with  halls  like  those  below.  Along  the  cen- 
tral j)ortion  of  the  main  hall  the  rooms  on  eitlier 
side  are  the  Public  Law  Library  Room,  two  Com-» 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  239 


mittee  rooms  on  eacli  side  of  the  Library,  two  rooms 
for  the  Sergeants-at-Arms  of  the  Assembly  and  the 
Senate,  and  eight  Committee  Booms.  Occupying 
the  east  half  of  the  south  wing  is  the  Senate 
chamber,  while  the  Assembl}^  chamber  has  the  cor- 
responding location  in  the  north  wing,  and  the 
State  Library  occupies  the  circular  projection  on 
the  east  side  immediately  over  the  Supreme  Court 
Koom  already  described.     Between  the 

Senate  Chamber  and  the  hall  swing  a  pair  of 
magnificent  double  doors  of  solid  black  walnut,  in- 
closing beautiful  panels  of  California  laurel-wood, 
bordered  by  elaborate  carving.  These  doors  are 
thirteen  feet  high  by  seven  feet  wide,  and  six 
inches  thick,  and  for  massive  elegance  and  costli- 
ness, are  among  the  noticeable  features  of  the  Cap- 
itol. The  Chamber  itself  is  sixty-two  feet  deep, 
seventy-two  feet  wide,  and  forty-six  feet  high.  A 
continuous  gallery,  supported  by  eight  Corinthian 
columns,  extends  across  the  west  side,  and  throws 
a  wing  some  distance  forward  on  both  the  north  and 
south.  These  columns  are  copied  from  those  in 
portico  of  Septimus  Severus  at  Kome.  Twenty 
windows  light  the  room  by  day,  and  two  large  gilt 
and  crystal  chandeliers  by  night.  The  President's 
desk  occupies  a  recess  in  the  centre  of  the  east  side. 
Above  the  desk,  large  gold  letters  present  the 
motto,  '■'  Senatoris  est  civitatis  libertatem  tueri."  A 
full-length  portrait  of  Washington  hangs  above  this 


240  BAXCROFT'S    TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

motto.  Tlie  senators'  desks  are  of  black  walnut,  of 
large  size,  and  handsome  pattern.  A  capacious 
arm-chair,  upholstered  with  crimson  plush  velvet, 
accompanies  each  desk. 

The  Assembly  Chamber  occupies  the  eastern  por- 
tion of  the  north  wing.  It  measures  ten  feet  more 
each  way  than  the  Senate  Chamber;  has  the  same 
style  of  architecture,  and  closely  resembles  that 
room  in  its  general  finish  and  furnishing,  except 
that  the  desks  and  chairs  are  twice  as  numerous; 
the  senators  numbeiing  forty,  the  assemblj^men, 
eighty.  The  upholstering  of  the  chairs  of  this 
room  is  of  green  velvet.  Yery  rich  and  heavy  car- 
pets of  elegant  patterns  cover  the  floors  of  both 
rooms.  The  motto  of  this  hall  is,  •'  Legislatorum 
est  justas  leges  condere."  Over  the  motto  hangs  a 
life-size  portrait  of  General  Sutter,  the  founder  of 
the  city.  Still  above  the  portrait,  in  a  sort  of  arched 
niche,  is  a  statue  of  Minerva,  having  a  horn  of  plen- 
ty on  her  right  and  a  California  bear  upon  her  left. 
A  like  statue  similarly  flanked,  occupies  the  corres- 
ponding position  in  the  Senate  Chamber. 

The  State  Librar3^ — The  State  Library  occupies 
the  circular  or  elipsoidal  projection  midway  between 
the  north  and  south  wings  on  the  east  side  of  the 
building,  immediately  over  the  Supreme  Court 
rooms.  The  Library  Room  is  fifty-eight  feet  long 
by  forty-six  feet  wide,  and  forty-six  feet  high.  Its 
plan  is  unique.     In  the  centre,  a  rotunda,  rising 


EXCURSION  ROUTES,  241 

straight  up  through,  is  crowned  by  a  dome,  whose 
top  is  sixty-three  feet  above  the  floor.  A  broad, 
circular  galleiy  divides  the  room  into  two  stories, 
each  of  which  is  itself  again  divided  into  two  by  a 
sub-gallery.  The  circular  space  around  the  rotun- 
da, contains  nine  equal  alcoves.  The  peculiar  out- 
line produces  a  singular,  and  somewhat  startling 
effect,  which  is,  that  when  standing  in  the  centre 
of  this  library,  one  cannot  see  a  single  book,  al- 
though the  shelves  around  him  contain  nearly  thirty 
thousand  volumes.  Convenient  stairs  give  easy 
access  to  galleries  and  sub-galleries;  all  of  which 
are  arranged  in  the  same  manner.  Counting  the 
different  levels  from  which  ascend  the  successive 
tiers  of  radial  shelving,  the  libraiy  room  is  four 
stories  high.  The  dome  rests  on  twelve  Corinthian 
columns,  similar  to  those  in  the  Senate  and  Assem- 
bly chambers,  already  described.  Still  above  the  li- 
brary, surrounding  the  rotunda,  is  a  large  circular 
room,  devoted  to  the  storage  of  papers,  pamphlets, 
.and  congressional  reports. 

The  Third  Floor  is  eighteen  feet  high  in  the 
clear,  and  is  divided  into  seventeen  committee 
rooms,  besides  a  large  hall  in  the  southwest  corner 
of  the  south  wing,  which  is  provided  for  a  cabinet 
and  museum. 

The  Dome. — Over  the  inner  dome,  already  built, 
will  be  erected  the  main  or  outer  dome,  one  hun- 
dred feet  higher,   supported  on  massive  iron  col- 


242  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

umns,  and  surmounted  by  Powers'  statue  of  Cali- 
fornia, in  ii'on. 

The  G-rounds  about  the  building,  covering  the 
four-  blocks  donated  by  the  city,  will  be  terraced 
and  sodded,  set  with  native  trees,  beautiful  flower 
plots,  traverbed  by  graveled  walks,  inclosed  by  a 
massive  and  costly  fence,  and  entered  by  gateways 
at  the  corners  and  at  the  centres  of  each  side. 

Over  $1,000,000,  in  gold  coin,  has  already  been 
expended  upon  it,  and  it  is  more  than  "probable 
that  the  better  part  of  another  million  will  follow 
the  first,  before  Californians  will  witness  the  com- 
pletion of  their  costly  capitol,  which  is,  however, 
as  it  should  be,  by  far  the  noblest  building  west  ^ 
the  Mississippi. 

Although  still  unfinished,  the  Legislature  took 
formal  possession  of  the  building  on  Monday,  Dec. 
6th,  1869.  The  Secretary  of  State,  State  Treasurer, 
Supreme  Judges,  and  several  other  State  officials, 
already  occupy  the  apartments  assigned  to  them. 

Other  Buildings. — The  new  Odd  Fellows'  Hall, 
the  Savings  Bank  Building,  two  or  three  of  the 
churches,  the  residence  of  Chas.  Crocker,  and  those 
of  several  other  prominent  gentlemen,  equal  the 
finest  in  the  State. 

Hotels. — The  Golden  Eagle  and  the  Orleans  are 
the  begt.  The  former  is  newer,  stands  nearer  the 
Capitol,  and  accommodates  the  legislators.  The 
latter  is  newly  and  elegantly  furnished  and  is  the 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.     »  243 

great  haunt  of  the  railroad  men.  As  for  tables  and 
bedSj  either  will  furnish  you  the  best  in  the  city. 
Each  runs  free  coaches  from  the  depots  and  wharves. 
View  of  the  City. — No  neighboring  natural  emi- 
nence affords  any  point  of  sight  worth  noting. 
From  the  Capitol  dome,  however,  one  has  a  view 
of  the  tree-embowered  city,  and  the  far-reaching, 
fertile  valley,  the  gracefully  winding,  tree-bordered 
river,  and  the  distant,  snow-capped  mountains, 
which  form  a  panorama  of  beauty,  shut  in  by  gTan- 
deur,  rarely  to  be  enjoyed  from  as  slight  an  eleva- 
tion. 

Stockton. 

•  A  trifle  over  one  third  of  the  way  down  from  Sa- 
cramento to  San  Francisco,  lies  Stockton,  the 
county  seat  of  San  Joaquin  County,  and  in  popula- 
tion, the  fourth  city  of  the  State.  It  stands  on 
both  banks  of  a  deep  and  wide  slough  of  the  same 
name,  navigable  the  year  round,  and  opening  into 
the  San  Joaquin  river,  three  miles  west  of  the  city. 
It  was  named  in  compliment  to  Commodore  Stock- 
ton, in  honorable  recognition  of  his  prominent  ser- 
vices in  the  conquest  of  the  State. 

No  city  in  California  has  had  a  more  gradual, 
steady  and  healthful  growth.  For  many  years  it 
was  the  point  of  departure  and  the  centre  of  trade 
for  several  of  the  richest  mining  regions,  of  which 
business  it  still  retains,  directly  or  indirectly,  a  full 


244  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

proportion.  Its  great  source  of  prosperity  and  of 
wealth,  however,  is  the  immense  grain-producing 
country,  the  famous  San  Joaquin  valley,  which  sur- 
rounds it. 

Last  year,  1870,  Stockton  exported  94,152,000 
lbs.,  nearly  50,000  tons,  of  wheat;  and  3,160,500 
lbs.  of  wool;  53,586  tons  of  hay,  and  nearly  160 
tons  of  butter  and  cheese. 

The  Abtesian  Well. — One  of  the  points  of  vital 
interest  to  the  inhabitants,  if  not  to  every  tourist, 
is  the  great  well,  one  thousand  and  two  feet  deep, 
seven  inches  in  diameter,  and  discharging  three 
hundred  and  sixty  thousand  gallons  daily. 

The  Insane  Asylum. — The  chief  architectural  at- 
tractions of  Stockton  are  the  two  large  and  fine 
buildings  of  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  occupying 
most  extensive,  beautifully  planned,  and  tastefully 
kejit  grounds,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  city. 
The  institution  was  opened  in  1853,  and  has  now 
about  eleven  hundred  patients  in  care.  It  is  the 
most  expensive  public  institution  yet  completed  in 
the  State,  having  cost  nearly  one  million  dollars. 
It  is  open  to  visitors  at  stated  hours,  except  the 
female  dejDartment,  through  which  gentlemen  are 
not  allowed  to  pass,  unless  by  sjDCcial  permission 
of,  or  in  company  with,  the  attendant  physician. 
Superintendent  and  Resident  Physician,  Dr.  G. 
A.  Shurtleff. 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  245 

Hotels. — Of  the  six  or  eight  hotels  in  the  city, 
only  two  rank  as  first-class.  The  Yosemite  House 
is  emphatically  (he  tourist's  home.  The  moment 
you  step  upon  the  depot  platform,  or  the  steam- 
boat pier,  look  out  for  the  bluest  eye,  the  fairest 
hair,  and  the  most  attractive  face  in  the  crowd,  and 
ride  home  with  their  owner.  He's  one  of  the  three 
McBean  brothers,  whose  excellent  management  has 
made  the  Yosemite  House  so  wddely  known  and  so 
increasingly  popular.  The  Grand  Hotel  is  the 
other  first-class  house,  and  is  conducted  upon  the 
restaurant  plan. 

Routes  and  Teams. — If  you  want  to  know  where 
to  go  and  how  to  get  there,  ask  for  Robert  C.  Pat- 
ten, or  address  him  through  box  91,  Stockton  P.  O., 
and  he'll  make  any  desired  arrangements  for  you, 
in  the  kindest  way,  the  promptest  time,  and  at  the 
lowest  rate. 

From  Stockton  toward  Oakland. 

The  Western  Pacific  railroad  takes  us  first,  to 

Lathrop, 

Nine  miles  west  of  Stockton.  Here  is  the  junction 
of  the  Visalia  division  of  the  Central  Pacific  rail- 
road now  open  to 

Modesto, 

Twenty-one  miles  south,  on  the  Tuolumne  river. 
This  is  one  of  the  present  points  of  departure  for  the 


246  BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 

Calaveras  Big  Trees  and  the  Yoseniite  Valley,  whith- 
er stages  dejDart  daily. 

Returning  to  Lathrop  and  continuing  west  about 
one  mile  thence,  we  cross  the 

San  Joaquin  River, 

Broad,  shallow  and  muddy,  bordered  by  level  reach- 
es of  tule  lands,  so  low  that  a  few  feet  rise  in  the 
river  overflows  thousands  of  acres,  and  makes  the 
river  sometimes  nearly  six  miles  wide.  A  necessi- 
ty, resulting  from  this  overflow,  is  the  San  Joaquin 
Bridge,  which  not  only  spans  the  permanent  bed  of 
the  roily  stream,  but  extends  several  miles  across 
the  low  tule  lands,  whose  submergence  would  oth- 
erwise completely  stop  all  travel,  except  by  swim- 
ming, w^ading,  boating  or  flying. 

Seven  miles  from  Lathrop,  we  come  to 

Banta's, 

A  small  freight  and  passenger  station,  whence  tri- 
weekly stages  connect  for  Hill's  FeiTy,  forty  miles. 
Five  miles  further,  through   a  fine  agi'icultui'al 
country,  brings  us  to 

Ellis, 

A  small  village  clustered  round  the  usual  saloons 
and  restaurants  ;  whence  six  miles  more  and  we 
reach 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  247 

Midway, 

"Whose  name  will  never  be  true  till  either  San 
Francisco  or  Sacramento  moves  six  miles  nearer 
the  other. 

Seven  and  a  half  miles  further,  we  suddenly 
plunge  into  a  well-cut  tunnel,  about  six  hundred 
feet  long,  whose  chief  peculiarity  is  that  we  enter 
it  in  one  county  and  leave  it  in  another.  It  re- 
ceives us  in  San  Joaquin  county,  carries  us  under 
the  boundary,  and  ushers  us  into  Alameda  county. 
Just  after  coming  out  from  the  tunnel,  we  whirl 
by  the  little  flag  station  Altamont,  whence  we  begin 
to  enter  upon  the  down  grade,  and  roll  through 
the 

Liveriuore  Pass, 

Which  is  either  a  valley  or  a  hill,  according  to 
whether  one  reckons  downward  from  the  higher 
summits  on  either  side,  or  upward  from  the  lower 
level  at  either  end.  Eight  miles  from  Altamont  we 
stop  at 

Livermore, 

A  rapidly-growing  village  in  the  beautiful  Liver- 
more  Yalley,  forty-seven  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
From  this  station  down  to 

Pleasanton, 
Is  only  six  miles,  and  they  are  pleasant  'uns  indeed. 


248  BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

A  thriving  town,  finely  situated  and  beautifully 
suiTOunded. 

Thence  rolling  rapidly  down  the  tortuous  track, 
we  skirt  along  the  bases  of  high  hills,  follow  the 
windings  of  a  charming  little  narrow  valley,  rum- 
bling through  two  or  three  strong  frame  bridges, 
for  twelve  miles,  when 

Niles, 

And  its  junction,  with  "  change  cars  for  San  Jose," 
notify  us  that  we  have  fairly  passed  the  hills,  and 
entered  upon  the  fertile  plains  which  gently  slope 
from  the  foothills  to  the  bay,  whose  southern  por- 
tion is  our  first  glimpse  of  Pacific  salt  water.  At 
Niles  we  can  take  the  San  Jose  cars,  and  go  round, 
through  that  city,  to  San  Francisco,  all  the  way  by 
land,  if  we  particularly  desire  to  accomplish  the 
whole  transit  on  wheels.  If  we  do  that,  we  shall 
travel  forty  miles  further  than  by  keeping  straight 
on  from  Niles  through 

Decoto, 

which  is  but  two  miles.  Decoto  is  one  of  the  "go- 
ing to  be"  towns.  At  present  it  exists  chiefly  in 
the  future  tense.  Nine  miles  still  between  the  rol- 
ling foothills  on  the  right  and  the  almost  level 
plains  stretching  awaybayward,  brings  us  to 


A 


EXCURSION  ROUTES.  249 


San  Lorenzo, 

Which  presents  nothing  of  special  note  beyond  a 
quiet,  restful-looking  town,  quite  refreshing  to  the 
tired  and  dusty  tourist.     Thence  four  miles,  and 

San  Leandro, 

Town  and  creek,  arrest  our  train  for  sixty  seconds, 
The  court  house,  jail,  a  large  agricultural  imple- 
ment factory,  with  several  stores,  one  or  two  hotels 
and  a  newspaper,  invest  this  pleasant  town  with  all 
the  dignity  of  a  comfortable  county  seat.  Seven 
miles  from  San  Leandro,  is 

Brooklyn, 

A  thriving,  go-ahead  town  of  two  thousand  inhabi- 
tants nights,  and  about  seventeen  hundred  by  day, 
when  a  good  seventh  of  its  denizens  are  away  at 
their  business  in  San  Francisco.  .  Thence  a  shoi-t 
two  miles,  and  we  stop  again  at 

Oakland, 

The  tree-embowered  city  named  by  nature,  and 
chosen  by  man  for  charming  homes  and  quiet  halls 
of  learning. 

Moving  once  more,  and  for  the  last  time,  we 
steam  by  the  hedges,  gardens,  cottages  and  man- 
sions along  the  southwest  suburb,  and  roll  slowly 
out  two  miles  along  a  strongly  built  pier,  over  the 


250  BANCROhT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 

shallow  margin  of  the  bay,  or  the  undisguised  flats, 
according  to  the  tide,  and  "  down  brakes"  for  good 
on  the  last  rails  of  the  great  iron  way  across  the 
continent,  and  over  the  waters  of  another  ocean. 
An  elegant  ferry-boat,  ''El  Capitan,"  quickly  re- 
ceives us,  and,  in  fifteen  minutes,  the  San  Francis- 
co pier  welcomes  us  to  the  Occidental  metropolis, 
and  our  joiu'ney  is  done.  Turn,  now,  to  the  para- 
graph on  hacks  and  hotels;  let  one  take  you  to  the 
other,  bathe,  eat  and  sleep,  and  next  morning, 
hunt  up  the  "  Short  Excui-sions  in  and  about  San 
Francisco,"  and  devote  yourself  to  cultivating  the 
Pacific  metropolis. 

Lake  Tahoe. 

This  beautiful  mountain  lake  lies  along  the  east- 
em  margins  of  Placer  and  El  Dorado  counties.  The 
State  line  between  California  and  Nevada  parses 
through  it,  lengthwise,  from  north  to  south.  We 
reach  it  by  stage  from  the  Central  Pacific  railroad 
at  Truckee,  in  three  hours,  oyer  a  variable  road, 
through  sceneiy  often  beautiful,  and  for  the  extrav- 
agant fare  of  $3.00. 

The  lake  is  one  mile  and  a  quarter  above  the  sea 
level.  It  is  itself  a  little  inland  sea,  thirty  miles 
long,  from  eight  to  fifteen  wide,  and  in  places 
nearly  two  thousand  feet  deep.  Its  water  is  clear 
as  crystal,  cold  as  the  melting  ice  and  snows  which 
feed  it,  and  the  purest  known  upon  the  continent. 


EXCURSION  RO UTES.  25 1 

Floating  upon  its  surface,  and  looking  down 
through  its  water,  ©ne  can  easily  count  the  pebbles 
and  stones  along  its  gravelly  bottom  at  the  depth 
of  sixty  feet.  One  seems  suspended  between  two 
firmaments  of  ether,  with  birds  flying  above  and 
fish  swimming  below.  And  such  trout!  swimming 
forty  feet  beneath  you,  and  f>lainly  visible  in  all 
their  quick  and  graceful  motions  between  you  and 
the  rocky  bottom. 

From  the  water's  edge,  grassy  slopes,  pebbly 
beaches,  rocky  shores  and  precipitous  bluffs  lead 
the  ej'^e  up  through  tree-dotted  ravines,  over  forest- 
crowned  hills  to  snow-clad  mountains,  white-headed 
with  age,  and  ermine-mantled  upon  their  tremend- 
ous shoulders. 

A  small  steamer  or  two  ply  upon  the  lake — 
plenty  of  good  boats  await  one,  and  excellent 
hotels  accommodate  transient  guests,*  or  more  j^er- 
manent  boarders. 

From  Tahoe,  back  to  Truckee,  by  stage,  cross 
the  railroad,  and  ride  out  two  miles  to 

Donner  Lake, 

Smaller,  but  hardly  less  beautiful  than  that  just 
left.  Its  ^reat  beauty  in  itself,  the  wild  and  ro- 
mantic surrounding  scenery,  its  ease  of  access  and 
its  good  hotel,  make  it  a  popular  summer  resort. 
The  tragical  circumstances,  seldom  equaled  in  the 
pioneer  history  of  any  country,  which   gave   the 


252  BANCROFT'S    TOURIST'S    GUIDE. 

name  to  this  lake,  may  be  found  graphically  nar- 
nated  in*  the  "Overland  Monthly''  for  July,  1870. 
If  you  visit  these  charming  lakes  on  your  journey 
to  the  State  you  could  not  have  a  grander  intro- 
duction to  its  scenes  of  vronder  and  beauty  ;  if  you 
take  them  on  your  return  east,  you  could  not  possi- 
bly carry  away  more  delicious  memories  of  lovelier 
spots.  Whether  they  bid  you  "welcome"  or 
"  farewell,"  you  will  leave  them  with  regi-et,  recall 
them  with  delight,  and  long  to  return  and  linger 
among  their  matchless  charms. 


COMPLETE    INDEX. 


Abbreviations.— S.  F.    San  Francisco.       Sac.  Sacramento. 
Jos6.    St.  Stockton.    Yo.  Tosemite. 


S.  J.  San 


Alabaster  Cave 77 

Alameda 196 

Ferry 196 

Alcatraz  Island 196-206 

Alhambra  Theatre,  S.  F. .  123 

Alinaden  Mine  214 

Alta  California  Bldg.,  S.F.157 

Alvarado 211 

American  Ex.  Hotel,  S.  F.120 

Angel  Island 196-207 

Approaches  to  S.  F 107 

Art  Gallery 133 

Artesian  Well,  St 244 

Asylums,  S.  F 167-8 

Auzerais  House,  S.  J.  .  .  .213 

Baggage  Express,  S.  F.'.  .115 

Bancroft's 157-172-174 

Bankof  Cal.,  S.  F 154 

Banta's 246 

Baseball  Grounds 130 

Baths    122 

Bay  Trips '205- 

Bay  View  Eoad — Track — 

House 147-192 

Beer  Cellars 124 

Beet  Sugar  Works 211 

Belmont 224 

Bernal  Heights,  S.  F.  ...183 


Big  Trees 57 

Billiards,  S.  F 127 

Black  Diamond  Coal  Co. 

Mine 189-230 

Black  Point 196 

Bonita  Point 195 

Bower  Cave 72 

Bowling  Salo  ns,  S.  F...127 
Bridal  Veil  Fall,  Yo.     ...  28 

Brief  Trips,  S.F 197 

Broderick  Mt 40 

Brooklyn  249 

Brooklyn  Hotel,  S.  F.  . .  .120 
Business    Buildings    and 

Blocks,  S.F....  157-159 
Butchertown 192 

Calaveras  Big  Trees 52 

Central  P.  K.  E.  Co 190 

California  Street,  S.  F.  .  .143 
"  Hill,  S.F.  181 

California  Theatre 123 

Capitol,  Sac 236 

Cathedral  Kocks 30 

Spires 30 

Chinese  Quarter,  S.F.  . .  197 

Theatres 123 

Churches,  S.  F 161 

Circuit  of  S.F 189 


254 


BANCROFT'S  TOURIST'S  GUIDE. 


PAGE. 

City  Gardens 140 

Citv  and  Co.  Buildings, 

"S.  F 150-153 

Clay  Street  HiU 180 

Clayton 227 

Cliff  Hovse— Eoad  . .  145-199 

Cloud's  Rest 41 

Colleges,  S.  F 169-171 

Congress  Springs 215 

Conveyances,  S.  F 113 

Corporation  Buildings, 

S.  F 153-157 

Cosmopolitan  Hotel,  S.F.119 

Court  House,  S.J 213 

Cricket  Grounds,  S.  F.  . .  130 
Crystal  Chapel 85 

"       Springs 223 

Custom  House,  S.  F 149 

Dance  HaUs,  S.  F 124 

Dashaways 126 

Davenport's  Landing.  . .  .219 
Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum, 

Berkeley 210 

Decoto 248 

Deep  Cut,  S.  F 191 

Denman  School 171 

Donner  Lake 252 

Donohoe  Building 157 

Drives,  S.  F 145 

Dry  Dock 192 

Dungeon  of  Enchantment  82 

ElCapitan 48 

EUis 246 

Engine  Houses,  S.  F 152 

Excursion  Routes 205 

FarraUones 194 

Ferries 196 

Fire  Department,  S.  F..  .153 
Fissure,  The,  Yo 31 


PAGE. 

Footing  it 187 

Fort  Point 194 

Frogto^sTi 219 

Gardens,  S.  F 130 

Gas  Works,  S.  F 190 

Gilroy 215 

Glacier  Rock 33 

Glass  Works 191 

Goat  Island 207 

Gold,  Discovery  of 233 

Golden  Gate 195 

Grand  Hotel 117 

Gymnasiums,  S.  F 128 

Half  Dome 41 

Halls,  S.  F 125 

Harpending's  Block 157 

Hayward's 211 

Horse  Cars,  S.  F 184 

Hospitals,  S.  F 167-190 

Hotels,  S.  F 116 

How  to  get  about 184 

Hunter's  Point 192 

Illillouette  Fall 35 

Industrial  School 152 

Italian  Fishing  Fleet  ...  .191 

Jail,  S.  F 151 

Kachoomah  Fall 38 

Kimball  Car  Manufactory.  159 

Lagoon,  The 193 

Laguna  Creek 218 

.Lake  Honda 193 

Lake  Merced 193 

Lathrop 275 

Libraries,  S.  F 148 

Light  House,  Fort  Point.  193 

Lime  Point 195 

Lincoln  School 171 


INDEX. 


255 


PAGE. 

Livermore 247 

Livery  Stables 187 

Lodging-houses,  S.  F. . . .  121 

Lone  Mountain 181 

Long  Bridge,  S.  P 191 

Lumber  Yards,  S.  F 189 

Maguire's  Opera  House  .123 
Manufactories,  S.  F..  159-161 

Marine  Hospital 150 

Mariposa  Big  Trees 57 

Marshall,  Jas.  W 232 

Martinez 226 

Masonic  Temple,  S.  F.  . .  156 

Mechanics'  Institute 158 

' '  Pavilion 155 

Melodeons,  S.  F 124 

Menageries 140 

Menlo  Park 225 

Mercantile  Library,  S,  F.154 

Merchants'  Exchange 154 

Metropolitan  Theatre, S.F.  123 

Midway 247 

Milbrae 225 

Mint 149 

Mirror  Lake 42 

Mission  Bay Peaks 

Rocks 182-190 

Modesto 245 

Monterey 217 

Mountain  Lake 195 

Mt.  Broderiek    40 

Mt.  Diablo 226-227 

Mt.  Starr  King 40 

Museums,  S.F 124 

Nevada  FaU 38 

New  Almaden 214 

New  York  Exchange  Hotel, 

S.J 213 

Niles 248 

North  Beach 196 


PAGE. 

North  Dome 43. 

"      Point 196 

Oakland 20^249 

«'      Ferry 196 

Ocean  House — Eoad .  146-193 

"      Eace  Course 193 

Odd  Fellows'  Hall,  S.  F.  .156 

Pacheco 226 

Pacific  Bank,  S.F 193 

P.M.  S.  S.  Co 190 

Pacific  Boiling  Mill  .  160-191 

Pajaro  Valley 216 

Palace  Car 159 

Parks,  S.  F 130 

Pescadero 220 

Creek 222 

Pigeon  Point 219 

Pioneers,  Society  of 153 

Pioneer  Woolen 'Mills  . . ,  196 

Pleasanton 247 

Point  Bonita 195 

"     Lobos 194 

Points  of  Observation    . .  174 

Pompompasas 47 

Post-office,  S.F 148 

Potrero 191 

Presidio 195 

Private  Eesidences,  S.  F.174 
Promenades,  S.  F.  .  .141-144 
Pulpit,  The 87 

Eedwood  City 224 

Eestaurants,  S.F 121 

Eincon  Hill 181 

Point 190 

Eope  Walk,  S.  F 191 

Eoyal  Arches,  Yo 44 

Eussian  Hill 180 

Sacramento 231-2 

San  Bruno  Eoad 192 


256 


BANCROFT'S   TOURIST'S   GUIDE. 


PAGE. 

SA^-  Feancisco 95-201 

Apijroaches 107 

ftaths 122 

Buildings — Business  . .  157 
Public...  148 

Chinese  Quarter 197 

Churches 161 

Colleges 169 

Conveyances 113 

Drives 145 

Excursions  about  City  .  197 

Gvmnasiums 128 

HaUs 125 

Hills 174 

Historical  Sketch 95 

Horse  Cars 184 

Hospitals, Asylums,  etc.  167 

Hotels ]16 

How  to  get  about 184 

Libraries 148 

Lodging  Houses 121 

Manufactories 159 

Melodeons 124 

Museums 124 

Places  of  Amusement  .  122 

Plan  of  City 102 

Private  Residences. . .  .174 

Promenades 141 

Bestaurants 121 

Schools 171 

Sea  Wall 196 

Situation  and  Extent . .   99 

Skating  Rinks 130 

Squares  and  Parks ....  141 
Suburbs  and  Vicinity . .  188 

Theatres 122 

San  Joaquin  River 246 

San  Jose— Trip 212 

San  Juan 217 

San  Leandro 249 

San  Lorenzo 249 

Sau  Mateo.... 223 


PAGE. 

San  Quentin 196 

Santa  Clara 215 

Santa  Cruz 217 

Saratoga 215 

Saucelito 196 

Scott's  Creek 219 

Sea  Wall 196 

Seal  Rocks 194 

Sentinel  Dome 32 

Sentinel  Rock 31 

Ship  Yards,  S.  F 161 

Shot  Tower,  S.  F 161 

Skating  Rinks,  S.  F 130 

South  San  Francisco  ....  192 
State  Normal  School,  S.J.213 

State  University 210 

Sugar  Refineries 161 

Sutter,  Gen.  Jno.  A 232 

Tahoe,  Lake 250 

Telegraph  Hill 174 

Tenaya  Canon 41 

Lake 43 

Three  Brothers    47 

Tooloolweack  Fall 36 

Tutochahnuldh 48 

VaUejo 196 

Vernal  Fall    35 

Visitacion  Point  and  Val.192 

WaddeU's  Wharf 219 

Warm  Springs 211 

Washington  Colimin 44 

Woodward's  Gardens.  130-140 

YOSEMITE 24-48 

For  Routes,  Conveyances, 
Time,     Hotels,    Guides,  . 
Horses,   Outfit,  and  Ex- 
penses see 
Introdvi^Aioy^. 


INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEES. 


Big  Trkes,  Calaveras  Co., 

Sperry  &  Perry,         -         -    xliii 

Central  Pac.  R.  R. 

Yosemite  route  -        -        xv 

Geysers. 

Great   Geyser  Springs,  J.   C. 
Susenbeth      -  -         -     xvi 

GiLROY. 

Hanna  House,  J.  A.  Gordon 
&  Co.,         -        -        -        xliv 

Modesto. 

Ross  House,  J.  Cole       -         xvii 

Napa  City. 

Revere  House,  J.W.Sharp  xviii 

Oakland. 

Taylor's  Carpet  Store,         -     liii 
Pet  ALUM  A. 

American    Hotel     Mrs,  Wm. 
Ordway  -         -         -     xix 

San  Francisco. 

A.  r>.  Bancroft   &   Company, 
Books  and  Stationery      Cover 

A.  Li.  Bancroft   &   Company, 
Pianos      -         .•        .        .     vii 

Blake,  Robbins  &  Co.,  Paper 
-----       xii 

Bradley   &   Rulofson,   Photo- 
graphs   -  -  -  -        XX 

California  Ink  Company,  G.  L. 
Faulkner  ...    xxi 

City  Livery  and  Sale  Stables, 
M.  Magner,  -         -         xlv 

^     Eagle  Pencils  -  xxii 

R.  Eitner,  Engraver,  xxiii 

Jos  Figel,  Merchant  Tailor  xxiv 

L      P.     Fisher,     Advertising 
Agent         ...         XXV 


Grand  Hotel,  Johnson  &  Co  xU'i 
Henry  G.  Hanks,  Assayer  and 

Chemist  -  -  -  Ivi 
Hobbs,  Gilmore  &  Co.  -  xxvi 
J.  Isaac  &  Co.,  ^  tationery  xi 
Sam'l  Kellett,  Plaster,  Decora- 
tions, ...  xlviii 
McAfee,  Spiers  &  Co.,  Boiler 

Makers  ...     viii 

J.  C.  Meussdorffer,  Hats  xxvii 
New  York  Livery  Stable,  Crit- 
tenden &  Dalton  -  xlix 
Occidental  Hotel,  -  xxviii 
Overland  Monthly,  J.  H.  Car- 
many  &  Co.  -  -  -  vi 
Geo.  T.  Pracy  -  xxix 

H.  Rosekrans  &  Co.,  Hard- 
ware ...  XXX 

Sherman  &  Hyde,  Music 
Dealers         ...      xxxi 

Thurnauer  &  Zinn,  Willow- 
ware    .        -        -         -     xxxii 

Watkins'  Photographic  Views, 

xiii 

Woodward's  Gardens     -         Ivii 

San  Jose. 

Auzerais  House  -         -        1 

Church  &  Wallace,  Teams  and 

Saddle  Horses  -  -  Ivi 
New  York  Exchange  Hotel       li 

vStockton. 

Yosemite  House  -        -    liv 

Yosemite. 

Coulterville  route  -  xxxiii 
Coulterville     and      Mariposa 

route,  C.  P.  R.  R.  .  xv 
New  Yosemite  Hotel,  Leidig 

&  Davaney,     -         .        -     Hi 


INDEX  TO  ADVERTISERS. 


Boston. 

And.  T.  Gra,ves,  Books  xxxiv 
Henry  Hoyt,  New  Prize  Books 

-  -  -  -  XXXV 

Lee  &  Shepard,  Schwartz 
Novels     -        -        -        -    xiv 

Lee  &  Shepard,  Books  of 
Travel     -        -        .        xxxvi 

Loring's  R.  R.  Novels      -        Iv 

H.  A.Young&  Co.,  Books xxxvii 

New  York. 

Appleton's  Guide  Books  xxxviii 
Eagle  Pencils  -  -  xxii 
Gillott's  Pens  Inside  Cover 

Harper's  Periodicals^      -  iii 


J.  S.  Redfield,  Books     -     xxxix 
S.  R.Wells,  Phrenology  xl 

Shipraans'  Patent  File     -  v 

Spencerian  Pens,Ivison,Bl^^<:e- 
man  &  Taylor  -        -      iv 

Palmyra.  N.  Y. 

Globe  Printing  Presses      -  x 

Philadelphia, 

Chas.  Desilver,  School  Books 

-    xli 
Kay    &    Brother,    Publishers, 
&c.  ...  xlii 

Springfield,  Mass. 

Webster's  Dictionaries  ix 


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PIANOS,  ORGANS, 


MUSIC  PUBLICATIONS, 


NEW  PIANO  AGENCY.— Messrs.  A.  L.  Bancroft  &  Co. 
have  organized,  under  the  management  of  Wm.  Henry  Knight, 
a  MUSIC  DEPARTMENT,  where  may  be  fou^d  a  complete 
assortment  of  PIANOS,  ORGANS,  SHEET  MUSIC  AND 
MUSIC  PUBLICATIONS.  Following  are  some  of  their  spec- 
ialties: 

I.  The  GEORGl  PIANO-FORTE— a  new  and  magnificent 
instrument;  in  every  respect  strictly  first-class,  and  becoming 
very  popular  in  the  East. 

II.  The  PRINCE  ORGANS  AND  MELODEONS.— 
There  are  46,500  of  these  now  in  use.  They  are  unsurpassed 
among  reed  organs. 

III.  The  McCAMMON  PIANOS,  formerly  known  as  the 
celebrated  ' '  Boardman  &  Gray"  Piano.  A  very  superior,  moderate 
pi  iced   instrument. 

IV.  The  COTTAGE  AND  SCHOOL  PIANO.— In  small 
sized  cases,  elegant  in  appearance,  of  low  cost,  and  very  durable. 

V.  HOOK'S  PIPE  ORGANS  FOR  CHURCHES.— The 
best  manufactured. 

VI.  LUNAN'S  GERMAN  UPRIGHT  PIANOS.— Fine- 
toned,  thoroughly  well  made  instruments. 

VII.  MUSIC  PUBLICATIONS.— Sheet  Musjc,  Instruction 
Books,  etc.,  etc. 

For  Descriptive  Circulars  and  Price  Lists,  address  or  apply  to 

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Bancroft's  Building,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


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SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Also  Orders  received  for  every  descrip- 
tion of  Machinery. 

Having  24  years'  experience  in  this  business,  we  feel 
confident  of  being  able  to  compete,  as  to  quality  of  work, 
with  any  establishment  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Particular  and  personal  attention  given  to  repairs  of 
old  boilers  on  steamships  and  steamboats. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  ix 


GET    THE    BEST 

Webster's  Unabridged 
DICTIONARY. 

10,000  Words  and  Meanings  not  in  other  Dictionaries.     3,000 
Engravings.     1,840  Pages  Quarto.     Price  $12. 

Glad  to  add  my  testimony  in  its  favor. 
[President  Walker  of  Hartford.] 
Every  scholar  knows  its  value. 
[W.  H.  Prescott,  the  HLstorian.] 
The  most  complete  Dictionary  of  the  Language. 
[Dr.  Dick,  of  Scotland.] 

The  best  guide  of  students  of  our  language. 
[John  G.  Whittier.] 
He  will  transmit  his  name  to  latest  posterity. 
[Chancellor  Kent.] 
T^tyraological  parts  surpasses  anything  by  earlier  laborers. 
-L>  [George  Bancroft.] 

Bearing  relation  to  Language  Principia  does    to  Philosophy. 
[Elihu  Burritt.] 
Excels  all  others  in  defining  scientific  terms. 
[President  Hitchcock.] 
SO  far  as  I  know,  best  defining  Dictionary. 
[Horace  Mann.] 
Take  it  altogether,  the  surpassing  work. 
[Smart,  the  English  Orthoepist.] 
A  necessity  for  every  intelligent  family,  student,  teacher  and  professional 
man.     What  library  is  complete  without  the  best  English  Dictionary? 
Published  by  G.  &  C.  MERRIAM,  Springfield.  Mass. 
Sold  by  A.  L.  BANCROFT  &  CO.,  San  Francisco,  and  all  Booksellers. 

Also,  WEBSTER'S  NATIONAL  PICTORIAL  DICTIONARY. 

1040  Pages  Octavo.     600  Engravings.     Price  $5. 
The  work  is  really  a  gem  of  a  Dictionary,  jast  the  thing  for  the  millions.— 
American  Educational  Monthly. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


Globe   Printing    Presses. 


IMPRESSION  CAN  BE  THROWN  OFF. 

DWELL  ON  THE  IMPRESSION. 
DETENTION  OF  ROLLERS  ON  CYLINDER 
AND  DOUBLE  VIBRATING  DISTRIBUTORS, 

GIVING  UNLnnTED  DISTRIBUTION. 


NET  CASH  PRICES: 

Half  medium,  13  x  xg}/2  inches  inside  of  chase,  $550.00.  Fountain,  $25.00. 
Steam  Fixtures,  $15.00.     Boxing,  $10.00. — extra. 

Quarto  medium,  10  x  15  inches  inside  of  chase,  $425.00.  Foimtain,  $25.00. 
Steam  Fixtures,  $15.00.   ^Boxing,  $7.00. —  extra. 

Eighth  medium,  8  x  12  inches  inside  of  chase,  $250.00.  Steam  Fixtures, 
$15.00.     Boxing,  $6.00. — extra. 

One  Roller  Mould,  two  sets  Roller  Stocks,  and  three  chases,  are  included 
\\4th  each  Press. 

All  of  these  Presses  will  be  thoroughly  tested,  strongly  boxed, 
and  delivered  to  the  order  of  the  purchaser,  at  our  manufactory, 
Palmyra,  N.  Y. 

Jones  Manufacturing  Co. 

Palmyra,  N.  Y. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


JOSEPH  ISAAC.  H.  ROBITSCHECK. 

J.  ISAAC  &  CO.,' 

IMPORTERS  AND  JOBBERS  OF 

Stationery,  Blank  Books, 

MANILA  AND  WRAPPING  PAPERS, 
Playing  Cards,  Labels,  Liquor  Essences, 

ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC., 

5/j>  Sansome  St.,  cor.  Merchant 

SAN  FRANCISCO. 


J.  ISAAC  &  CO'S 

Paper  Warehouse. 

DEALRRS    IN    PAPERS 

OF  ALL  DESCRIPTIONS. 

Envelopes  Jnks,  Twine,  Playing  Cards, 

LIQUOR  AND  WINE  LABELS, 
ESSENTIAL  OILS,  ETC,  ETC 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


Blake,  Robbins    &    Co., 

IMPORTERS  AND  JOBBERS  OF 

Book^  News  J   Writing  and 

WRAPPING  PAPER, 

Paper   Bags,    Card   Stock,    Straw   Paper, 
Straw  and  Binders'  Board,  Inks,  Bronzes,  Etc. 


AGENTS  FOR 

Carson's  Celebrated  Letter  Papers, 

INFERIOR  TO  NONE. 

Agents  for  Dexter's  Manila  Papers. 
Agents  for  Whiting  Mill  Paper, 

AND  OTHER  LEADING  BRANDS, 


^t6  Sacramento  &  ^ig  Commercial Sts. 

San  Francisco. 


Francis  Blake,        \ 

James  Moffitt,         >  San  Francisco. 

Chas.  F.  Robbins,    J 

James  W.  Towne,  New  York. 


New  York  Office,  i8  and  20  Vesey  Street, 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xiii 

WATKINS' 
YosEMiTE   Gallery, 

429  Montgomery  Street, 
San  Francisco,  Cal, 


Photographic  Views 

Of  Yosemite  Valley,  the  Big  Trees,  the   Mines,  the 
splendid  Scenery  of  the 

CENTRAL   PACIFIC  RAILROAD, 

The-  Coast   etc.,  etc.      Can  be  had  in  all  sizes  for 
framing,  the  Album,  or  the  Stereoscope. 


Sold  Wholesale  and  Retail.     A  liberal  discount  made 
to  the  trade.     Vou  are  requested  to  visit  the  Gallery, 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


The  Most  Popular  Novels 

ARE  THE 

SCHWARTZ  NOVELS. 

Translated  from  the  Swedish  of  Madame  Marie 

Sophie  Schwartz,  by  Miss  Selma  Borg, 

and  Miss  Marie  A.  Brown. 

NOW  READY, 


GUILT  AND  INNOCENCE    Paper,  $i  oo;  Cloth.  $i  50. 

"  Madame  Schwartz  is  a  writer  of  much  greater  literary  merit  than  Miss 
Muhlbach,  whose  works  have  been  so  widely  circulated  in  this  coimtry.' — Ne^v 
York  AtUis. 
GOLD  AND  NAME.     Paper,  §1  00;  Cloth,  $1  50. 

"  This  is  a  powerful  book;  in  plot  and  style,  it  is  equally  good.     Its  morals — 
it  may  be  considered  to  have  several— are  unexceptionable." — Ch?-istian  Stan- 
dard, Cincinnati. 
BIRTH  AND  EDUCATION.     Paper.  $1  00;  Cloth,  gi  50. 

"This  title  would  make  one  suppose  that  it  was  a  book  devoted  to  common 
schools  and  academies.     Instead  of  that,  it  is  a  romance  of  the  very  highest 
class, — one  of  the  best  historical  novels  of  the  age." — Albany  Eve7iing  Post. 
THE  WIFE  OF  A  VAIN  MAN.     8vo.,  Paper,  $1  00;  Cloth,  $1  50. 

In  presentmg  to  American  readers  the  first  translations  of  this  author,  who  in 
her  own  country  is  universally  popular,  the  publishers  take  pleasure  in  making 
public  the  following  tribute  of  the  Great  Swedish  Lyric  Artiste,  Mlle.  Chris- 
tine NiLSSON. 

New  York,  November  28,  1870. 

Mademoiselle: — It  is  with  great  pleasure  that  I  have  learned  that  you,  in 
conjunction  with  Miss  Makie  A.  Brown  have  undertaken  to  translate  into  En- 
glish the  magnificent  works  of  Madame  Schwartz. 

Allow  me  then,  dear  Mademoiselle,  as  a  fervent  admirer  of  Mada.aie 
Schwartz,  to  offer  you  and  Miss  Brown  my  liveliest  iehcitations  for  having 
chosen  an  author  of  so  immense  merit  to  introduce  to  the  American  public  a 
writer  who  has  contributed  to  make  the  glory  of  our  country. 

I  wish  you  all  the  success  you  deserve,  and  beg  you  to  be  so  kind  as  to  send 
me  a  copy  of  the  work  as  soon  as  it  is  published. 

Accept,  Mademoiselle,  as  well  as  Miss  Brown,  my  warmest  sympathy  and 
the  assurance  of  my  perfect  consideration. 

CHRISTINE  NILSSON. 

Sold  by  all  booksellers  and  newsdealers,  and  sent  by 
mail  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price. 

Lee  &  Shepard,  Publishers,  Boston. 
Lee,  Shepard  &  Dillingham, 

47  and  49  Greene  St.,  N.  Y. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


YOSEMITE 


AND 


BIG  TREE  GROVES 

IN    TWO    DAYS. 


IMPORTANT    FOR   TOURISTS. 


NE  V  ROUTE  FOR  187 r, 

VIA  THE 

VI SALT  A  DIVISION  of  the  CENTRAL 
PACIFIC  RAILROAD, 

FROM 

LATHROP, 

AND  FROM  THE  TERMINUS  OF  THE  C.  P. 
R.  R.  BY  STAGE,  VIA 

MARIPOSA  AND  CLARK'S  OR 
COULTERVILLE. 

8^  For  further  information  see  page  58. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


THE  GREAT 

GEYSER  SPRINGS 

OF   CALIFORNIA. 


THESE  celebrated  Springs  are  the  greatest  natural  curipsity  in  the  world, 
and  are  reached  by  the 

NAPA  VALLEY   ROUTE  AND    THE   RUSSIAN 
RIVER  VALLEY  ROUTE. 

For  particulars  of  these  routes,  see  description  in  body  of  this  guide. 

The  Medicinal  and  Curative  Properties  of  the  Geyser  Springs  are  admitted 
to  be  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  CalLstoga,  Baden-Baden,  Aix-la-Chapel,  Wies- 
baden, or  Homburg.  The  Scenery  is  wild,  picturesque  and  grand  in  the 
extreme,  and  finer  than  that  of  the  lower  Alps. 

The  Pluton,  or  Grea  r  Sulphir  Creek,  which  runs  by  the  Geyser  Hotel, 
is  well  supplied  with  mountain  trout;  and  the  hills  abound  with  deer  and 
other  game. 

THE  HOTEL 

Is  a  large,  two-story  building,  with  spacious  verandahs  surrounding  it,  above 
and  below,  and  has  been  newly  furnished.  New  steam  and  sulphur  bath- 
houses have  been  erected,  and  a  large  stable  has  been  built.  Private  Ieams 
can  easily  and  safely  drive  over  the  new  road  from  Calistoga,  and  at  the 
Geysers  will  find  an  abundance  of  good  feed  for  their  horses. 

SADDLE  HORSES 

For  ladies  and  Gentlemen,  are  always  on  hand,  at  reasonable  prices. 

A  Good  Table  is  kept  at  the  Hotel,  and  the  best  of  Liquors  and  Cigars 
will  be  found  at  the  bar,  The  rooms  are  comfortable,  and  the  beds  are  all 
new  and  provided  with  spring  mattresses.    • 

Board  and  lodging  per  day,  $3;  board  and  lodging  per  week,  $17.50; 
single  meals,  each,  $1.50.  Baths,  25.  Visiting  the  Geyser  Canons,  for  each 
person,  $1.     Children  under  ten  yeais  of  age,  half  price. 

jJ^Visitors  are  requested  not  to  pay  the  Guides,  as  they  are  furnished  by 
the  Hotel,  free  of  charge. 

Fare  from  San  Francisco  to  Calistoga,  per  steamer  and  cars,  §3.50.  Suges 
from  there  to  the  Gej-sers,  $6.00  per  passage. 


J.  C.  SUSENBETH, 


p.  S. — For  further  particulars,  inquire  at  the  ofBceof  J.  S.  POLACK,  Esq., 
Room  No.  I,  N.  W.  corner  of  Jackson  and  Montgomery  Sts.,  Ssn  Francisco. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


THE  SHORTEST  AND 

BEST  ROUTE  TO  YOSEMITE 

Via  Modesto. 


ROSS  HOUSE,  MODESTO. 

JOS.  COLE,  Proprietor. 


Tourists  will  find  this  House  conducted  in  first-class 
style.  Charges  moderate,  and  every  attention  paid  to 
Guests.  Stages  leave  this  House  daily  for  Snelling's, 
Hornitas,  Mariposa,  Yosemite,  and  all  points  south. 


YOSEMITE  STABLES. 

MODESTO,  CAL. 


HORSES,   CARRIAGES  AND  SADDLE  HORSES 

To  let  on  reasonable  terms. 

Horses  boarded  with  the  best  of  care,  by  the  day  or  week. 

Private   Teams  Furnished  at  the  shortest  notice;  also  Two 

Four  or  Six  Horse  Turnouts  furnished  for  Tourists, 

with  Concord  or  Kimball  Carriages,  with  careful 

and  experienced  Drivers. 

F.  H,  ROSS,    Proprietor, 


Modesto  is  situated  at  the  terminus  of  the  Visalia  Division  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R. 

The  Ross  House,  also  the  Yosemite  Stables  were  built  by  F.  H.  Ross,  almost 
exclusively  for  the  accommodation  of  Tourists,  and  no  pains  will  be  spared  to 
make  their  visit  to  the  Hoase,  or  transit  to  the  valley  comfortable  and  pleasant. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


REVERE  HOUSE 


JOHN  W.  SHARP,  Proprietor. 


Second  Street,  opposite  Court  House, 
NAPA  CITY. 


ONLY   FIRST-CLASS   HOUSE   IN   NAPA   CITY. 


THIS  HOUSE  is  fitted  up  in  superior  style,  and  is 
now  open  for  the  reception  of  Permanent  and  Transient 
Guests.  It  is  built  in  modem  style,  and  the  rooms  are 
large,  airy  and  pleasant. 

THE  BAR  is  well  supplied.  THE  TABLE  shall  be 
second  to  none  in  the  State.  The  farming  community 
will  find  at  this  House  the  best  of  accommodations  at 
reasonable  prices. 


'^v- 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


AMERICAN  HOTEL, 

Main-  Street,  Petaluma. 
MRS.  WM.  ORDWAY,  Proprietress. 


This  Hotel,  first-class  in  every  particular,  is  the  leading 
house  in  this  city  and  one  of  the  best  hotels  on  the 
coast. 

THE  BUILDING  is  a  large,  three-story,  fire-proot 
brick,  situated  in  the  center  of  the  business  part  of  the 
city,  well  ventilated,  supplied  with  water  and  gas,  perfectly 
arranged  with  a  view  to  comfort  and  convenience, 
containing  sixty  three  rooms,  elegant  parlor,  pleasant 
reading  room,  first-class  Bar  and  Billiard  room,  Hair 
Dressing  Saloon  and  Cigar  Stand. 

THE  ROOMS,  single  and  en-suite,  are  large,  with 
high  ceilings,  well  ventilated  and   elegantly  furnished. 

THE  TABLE  is  supplied  with  the  best  the  market 
affords,  prepared  and  served  in  first-class  style. 

A  LIVERY  STABLE  is  connected  with  the  Hotel. 
Splendid  carriages  are  furnished  upon  notice  at  the  office. 

OMNIBUSES  convey  guests  to  and  from  the  Hotel 
to  cars  and  steamers,  free  of  charge. 

STAGES  from  the  city  leave  from  this  Hotel. 

Tourists,  visiting  the  city,  are  shown  eveiy  courtesy 
and  attention  in  all  departments  of  the  Hotel. 


XX  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 

FOR  THE  VERY 

Best    Photographs, 

GO  TO 

BRADLEY 

AND 

RULOFSON, 

429  Montgomery  Street, 

SAJV  FRANCISCO. 


Closed  on  Sundays, 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


THE  CALIFORNIA 

INK  COMPANY, 

405  &  407  SANSOME  STREET, 

SAN  FRANCISCO. 


GEORGE    L.     FAULKNER,    Agent. 


Are  manufacturing\Vriting  Inks  of  different  colors,  equal  if 
not  superior  to  those  of  Eastern  or  Foreign  manufacture. 

For  our  Black  Writing  Fluid,  we  claim: 

1st. — That  it  will  not  corrode  or  clog  the  pen,  but  keep  it 
always  in  a  bright,  clean  condition. 

2d. — That  there  is  no  sediment  that  can  settle  and  impair 
the  color. 

3d. — That  it  flows  freely  from,  and  is  of  a  rich,  deep  color 
as  soon  as  it  leaves  the  pen. 

4th. — It  is  not  affected  by  acids,  as  an  acid  that  would  remove 
the  ink  will  eat  up  the  paper. 

5th. — It  cannot  be  washed  off  with  water. 

6th. — It  is  a  California  production,  and  the  manufacture  of 
the  same  keeps  thousands  of  dollars  in  the  State,  that  have  hitherto 
been  sent  abroad  for  Ink. 

We  also  make  a  superior  article  of  MUCILAGE  that  cannot 
be  excelled  for  its  adhesive  qualities. 

LIQUID  LAUNDRY  BLUING.— A  convenient  and  relia- 
ble preparation,  to  take  the  place  of  all  others  hitherto  used  for 
Laundry  purposes.     Put  up  in  8  oz.  bottles  and  gallon  jars. 

The  attention  of  the  trade  is  respectfully  solicited  to  these 
manufactures.     Perfect  satisfaction  guaranteed. 

Refer,  by  permission,  to  Messrs.  A.  L.  Bancroft  &  Company, 
who  are  selling  large  quantities  of  our  Writing  Inks  and  Mucilage. 

CALIFORNIA  INK  COMPANY, 

GEO.  L.  FAULKNER,  Agent. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


SATISFACTION  IN  ALL  CASES  GUARANTEED. 


ASK  FOUR  STATIONER  FOR 

EAGLE  PENCILS 


These  pencils,  which  have  been  before  the  American  public 
for  several  years,  are  rapidly  growing  in  popularity,  and  are  to-day 
MORE  EXTENSIVELY  USED  IN  THE  UNITED 
STATES  THAN  AN^^  OTHER. 
And  are  pronounced  by  all  who  have  given  them  a  fair  trial,  to  be 
INFERIOR  TO  NONE  manufactured,  and  are  sold  at  prices  materially 
lower  than  are  other  first-class  articles. 

Office  Rubber-Head  pencils  are  very  much  liked  by  business 
men. 

Eagle  Drawing  pencils  are  recommended  in  the  Drawing 
Books  now  in  use  in  the  State  of  California,  and  by  Drawing 
Teachers,  and  others. 

EAGLE  DIAMOND  RUBBER  IS  THE  BEST  MANUFACTURED. 


SOLD  BY  BOOKSELLERS  &  STATIONERS  GENERALLY. 
And  at  Wholesale  and  Retail  by 

A.  L.  Bancroft  &  Company, 
B  O  OKSELLERS  AND  ST  A  TI ONERS 

721  MARKET  ST.,  SAN  FR.\NCISCO. 


i!lliil!piiiiii!iiPiiiiiiiii 

M 

I    Hi 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


JOS.  FIGEL, 
Clothier,  Merchant  Tailor 

AND  DEALER  IN 

Men's  and  Boys'  Clothing, 

FURNISHING  GOODS,  TRUNKS,  &C. 

211    MONTGOMERY   STREET, 

Russ  Block,  opposite  Piatt's  Hall, 


Would  respectfully  invite   the   attention   of  the   Public   to  his 

superior  Stock  of  Goods,  feeling  confident  that  he  can 

suit,  both  in  regard  to  Price  and  Quality. 

A  FEATURE 

In  his  business  is  the  particular  attention  paid  to  the  manufacture 
of  Men's  and  Boys'  Clothing,  College  and  Military  Uniforms  of 
every  description  to  Order,  from  a  large  assortment  of  Cloths, 
Cassimeres,  Beavers,  Scotch  Tweed,  etc. 

Elegance  of  Style  and  Perfection  of  Fit   are  in  all   cases 
guaranteed. 

A  visit  to  my  Establishment  will  convince  you  of  my  ability 
to  please  in  every  respect. 

JOS.    FIGEL, 

No.  2 1 1  Montgomery  Street,  San  Francisco,  California. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


ESTABLISHED    IN     1852 


L.  P.  FISHER'S 

ADVERTISING 

agency: 


Rooms  20  &  21  Aleve  hunts  Exchange 

CALIFORNIA  ST.,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Agent  for  the  Sacramento  Union. 


^♦ADVERTISING  IS  THE  OIL  WHICH  WISE  MEN  PUT 
IN  THEIR  LAMPS."     —Modern  Proverb. 


GIRARUS    SECRET. 

Stephen  Girard,  than  whom  no  shrewder  business  man  ever  lived,  used 
to  say  in  his  old  age: 

'•  I  have  always  considered  advertising  liberally  and  long  to  be  the  great 
medium  of  success  in  business  and  prelude  to  wealth.  And  I  have  made  it  an 
invariable  rule,  too,  to  advertise  in  the  dullest  times,  as  well  as  in  the  busiest, 
long  experience  having  taught  me  that  money  thus  spent  is  well  laid  out;  as  by 
keeping  my  business  continually  before  the  public,  it  has  secured  many  sales 
that  I  otherwise  would  have  lost." 

Advertisements  and  Subscriptions  solicited  for  papers  published  in  Califor- 
nia and  Oregon,  Washington,  Utah,  Idaho,  Montana,  Colorado,  Arizona  and 
adjacent  Territories;  Sandwich  Islands,  the  British  Possessions,  Mexican  Forts, 
Nicaragua,  Panama,  Valparaiso,  Japan,  China,  Europe,  Australia,  Atlantic 
States,  etc.,  etc. 

N.  B. — FOR  SALE;  bound  volumes  of  the  Sacrcunento  Union,  from  Sept 
19th,  1855,  to  the  present  time;  also,  the  Sun-Francisco  Evening  Bulletin,  in 
bound  volumes,  from  the  beginning  of  its  publication  to  the  present  time. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  MILLS. 


HOBBS,GILMORE&CO. 

Manufacturers  of  BOXES, 


ALSO, 


Sawing  and  Planing  Mills, 

Market,  Beale  and  Main  Sts. 

SAN  FRANCISCO. 
San  Pedro  Street,   near  Depot,  San  Jose. 


FOR  SALE; 

SPANISH  CEDAR,  MAHOGANY, 

AND  OTHER  FANCY  WOOD. 


5^*  We   are   now  manufacturing,  and  will  receive 
orders  for  the  manufacture  of  different  kinds  of 

AGRICULTURAL  MACHINES. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xxvii 


FOR  FINE  HATS 

GO  TO 

J.   C.  Meussdorffer, 


NORTH  EAST  CORNER 

OF 

Montgomery  &  Bush  Sts. 

SAN  FRANCISCO. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


GEORGE  T.  PRACY, 

MACHINE  WORKS, 

109  &  III  MISSION  STREET, 
SAN  FRANCISCO. 


These  Works  have  lately  been  increased,  by  additional  tools, 
and  we  are  now  able  to  turn  out  any  kind  of  work,  equal  to  and 
cheaper  than  any  establishment  in  the  State,  that  is  to  say:— 

Steam  Engines,  Flour  and  Saw  Mills,  Quartz 
Machinery,  Printing  Presses, 

AND  MACHINERY  MADE  OF  EVERY   DESCRIPTION. 
IMPROVED  SAFETY  STORE  HOISTS, 

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N.  B.— For  sale  by  A.  L.  BANCROFT  &  CO.,  San  Francisco,  California. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xli 


STANDARD    SCHOOL    BOOKS 

PUBLISHED  AND 

For  sale  by  Charles  Desilver, 
No.    1229    Chestnut   Street,    Philadelphia. 

And  by  Booksellers  generally  throughout    the  Union  and  the  Canadas. 


Descriptive  Catalogues  furnished  on  application,  and  any  book  sent  by  mail 
postage  paid,  on  receipt  of  the  advertised  price. 


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Sargent's  Standard  Speaker,  half  roan, $2  50 

Sargent's  Intermediate  Standard  Speaker,  half-turkey  morocco,     -  -      2  00 

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Sargent's  Selections  in  Poetry,  half-morocco,           -        -        -        -  -       i  50 

Frost's  American  Speaker,  half-roan,            ......  168 

STANDARD   SCHOOL  HISTORIES. 

Lord's  History  of  the  United  States,  half-morocco,  -        -        -        -       i  68 

Lord's  Modern  History,  half-morocco, 225 

Summary  of  History,  designed    to  accompany  Lord's  Modem  History. 

I  vol.,  i2mo.,  cloth, 60 

Frost's  History  of  the  United  States.     i2mo.,  half  roan,  -        -        -      i  68 

Frost's  History  of  the  United  States,  royal  i8mo  ,  half-roan,       -         -  100 

History  of  England,  Pinnock's  improved  edition  of  Goldsmith,  revised  by 

W.  C.  Taylor,  LL,  D.,  i  vol.  i2mo,,  half  roan,  ...  i  75 

History  of  France,  by  W.  C.  Taylor,  LL.  D. .  i  vol.  i2mo.,  half-roan,  -  i  75 
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C.  Taylor,  LL.  D.,  i  vol.  i2mo.,  half-roan,  -        -         -         -         i  75 

NATURAL   SCIENCES. 

Johnston's  Turner's  Chemistry,  half  turkey, 2  50 

Johnston's  Turner's  Elements  of  Chemistry,  i  vol.  i2mo.,  half-morocco,  i  68 

Johnston's  Natural  Philosophy,  i  vol.  i2mo.,  half-turkey  morocco,  i  75 

Johnston's  Primary  Natural  Philosophy,  i  vol.  i8mo.,  half-roan,             -  75 

Guy's  Astronomy  and  Keith  on  the  Globes,  i  vol.  i2mo.,  half-roan,  i  25 

CLASSICAL    WORKS. 

Virgil,  Caesar,  Horace,  Cicero,  Sallust,  Ovid,  Juvenal,  half-turkey  moroc- 
co, each, 2  25 

Xenophon's  Anabasis,  and  Homer's  Iliad,  half-turkey  morocco,  each,  2  75 

Clarke's  Practical  and  Progressive  Latin  Grammar,  half-turkey  morocco,     i  75 
Gospel  of  St.  John,  translation  with  the  original  Greek  text,         -         -         275 
Livy.     Interlinear  translation  by  Hamilton  and  Clarke.     (/«  Press.) 
To  befolloTved  by  School  Editions  of  other  Classic  Authors  on  the  same  plan. 

For  sale  by  A.  L,  Bancroft  &  Co,, 

721  Market  St.,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


xlii  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 

KAY   &  BROTHER, 

Law  Publishers,  Booksellers 

AND  IMPORTERS, 

17  &  19  SOUTH  SIXTH  STREET, 

PHILADELPHIA. 


PUBLISH 


Brightly 's  Digest  of  the  Laws  of  the  United  Stfftes,  2  vols. 

8vo.        -        -         - $16.50 

Brightly's  Digest  of  Federal  Decisions,  2  vols.  8vo.    -  13 -S^ 

Brightly 's  Bankrupt  Law,  8vo.  -----  3.00 
Wharton's  American  Criminal  Law,  3  vols.  8vo.         -  22.50 

Wharton's  Precedents  of  Indictments  and  Pleas,  2  vols.  8vo.  15.00 
Wharton's  Law  Dictionary,  8vo.         -         -         -         -  7.50 

Wharton's  Conflict  of  Laws,  or  Private  International  Law, 

8vo.     (In  preparation.)         ----- 

Wharton  and  Stelle's  Medical  Jurisprudence,  8vo.  -         8.00 

Hilliard  on  Injunctions,  8vo. 7.50 

Hilliard  on  New  Trials,  8vo. 7.50 

Hilliard  on  Contracts,  2  vols.  8vo.     (In  preparation.) 
Pennsylvania  State  Reports,  vols,  131063;  51  vols,8vo.pervoL  4.50 
etc.,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

Kay  &  Brother  always  keep  on  hand  a  full  assortment  of 
the  Current  Law  Publications,  together  with  many  books  now 
either  scarce  or  out  of  print,  at  the  very  lowest  prices. 

Letters  of  inquiry  promptly  answered. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xllii 

BIG   TREES, 

Calaveras  County,  California, 

First-Class  Hotel  Accommodations, 

SPERRY  &  PERRY,  Proprietors. 


The  Calaveras  Group  is  the  one  known  to  the  World  as  the  Big  Trees  of 
California,  and  the  one  chiefly  visited  by  tourists.  It  comprises  the  Mammoth 
and  the  South  Park  groves.  The  Mammoth  grove  contains  ninety-three  of 
these 

Giants  of  the  Forest, 

among  which  are  the 

MOTHER  OF  THE  FORKST,  the  bark  from  which  was  exhibited  in  the 
Crystal  Palace,  London  ;  the 

FATHER  OF   THE   FOREST,  through  whose  prostrate  trunk  thousands 
have  ridden  on  horseback  ;  and  the 

ORIGINAL  BIG  TREE,  the  stump  of  which  forms  the  floor  of  the  famous 
Pavilion,  thirty-two  feet  in  diameter. 

The  South  Park  grove,  six  miles  distant,  has  thirteen  hundred  and  eighty  of 
these  trees,  many  of  them  of  immense  size.  One,  still  standing  and  growing, 
has  the  inner  portion  at  the  base  burned  out,  making  a  room  large  enough  to 
contain  sixteen  men  on  horseback  at  the  same  time  ;  and  yet,  enough  of  the 
outer  rim  of  the  tree  is  left  to  support  the  colossal  proportions  above. 

The  Calaveras  Group  surpasses  all  others  in  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  its 
trees,  and  is  the  only  one  having  hotel  accommodations. 

Tourists  leaving  Stockton  will  take  the  cars  of  the  Copperopolis  railroad  at 
9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  to  Milton,  twenty-eight  miles,  connecting  with  a  daily  line  of 
Concord  coaches  via  Winthrop's,  for  the  Big  Trees,  making  the  entire  distance 
in  ten  hours.  At  Murphy's,  stages  leave  daily  for  Yosemite  Valley  per 
Hutching's  new  route,  being  the  shortest  and  best  to  Yosemite  Valley.  A 
daily  line  of  coaches  leave  Gait  for  the  Bfg  Trees.  At  Melton,  and  Murphy's, 
private  conveyances  can  be  obtained  for  the  Big  Trees  and  Yosemite  Valley, 
at  low  rates. 

THOMAS  HOUSEWORTH,  Agent, 

317  and  2,^()  Montgomery  St.,  San  Francisco. 


xliv  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


NEW   HOTEL. 


GILROY. 


The  Proprietors  take  pleasure  in  informing  the  public 
generally  that  they  have  opened  the  NEW  HOTEL,  the 

HANNA  HOUSE. 

SITUATED   IN   THE 

Business  Centre  of  the  City,  near  the  R.  R. 
Depot, 

And  fitted  up  in  ELEGANT  STYLE,  and  being-  thor- 
oughly experienced  in  the  business,  can  promise  their 
patrons  such  attention  and  accommodations  as  are  found 
in  a 

FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE. 

Everything  about  the  House  is  entirely  new,  and  of 
the  best  quality. 

.       THE  HOTEL  COACH 

Will  be  in  constant  attendance  to  convey  passengers  to 
and  from  the  House  FREE  OF  CHARGE. 

The  patronage  of  the  public  is  respectfully  solicited. 

J.  A.  GORDON  &  CO., 

PROPRIETORS. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xlv 

CITY 

Livery  and  Sale  Stables, 

332  Bush   Street, 

Bet.  Montgomery  and  Kearny,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


M.    MAGNER,       -      -      Proprietor. 


An  entire  new  stock  of  fine  young  Horses,  sound  and  free  from 
vice,  of  fine  style,  and  capable  of  going  as  fast  as  any  gentle- 
man cares  to  drive.  Also  new  and  elegant  Wagons  of  all  de- 
scriptions, which  I  wilJ  let  to  responsible  parties  at  popular 
prices. 

Saddle  Horses  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen, 


Horses  boarded  with  the  very  best  of  care,  under  my  own 
supervision,  at  prices  to  suit  the  times.  Patronage  respectfully 
solicited. 

M.  MAGNER, 

Formerly  of  the  El  Dorado  Stables,  Stockton . 


Private  Teams  furnished  for  the  Big  Tree  Grove  and  Yosemite 
Falls,  to  start  from  Stockton,  or  the  terminus  of  the  Visalia  or 
Copperopolis  Railroad. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xlvii 


GRAND  HOTEL. 


JOHNSON  &  CO.,     -     -     Proprietors. 


SAN  FRANCISCO,  CALIFORNIA. 


xl/iii  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


SAMUEL  KELLETT, 


MANUFACTURER     OF 


PLASTER 


Decorations, 


No.  763 


Market     Street, 

San  Francisco. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  xlix 

NEW  YORK 

Livery  Stable. 


Crittenden  &  Dalton, 

Proprietors. 
712  Mission  Street,  near  Third, 

opposite  Dr.  Scudder's  Church,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Four  in  Hand  for  Cliff  House. 


^^  Orders  left    at  the  Office  of   Grand    Hotel    promptly 
attended  to. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


H.  S.  GREELEY,  Manager, 

Formerly  of  the  Occidental,  San  Franci.=cO. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER 


NEW  YORK 

Exchange  Hotel, 

SAN  JOSE. 


First  Street,  corner  St.  Johns, 


CENTRALLY  LOCATED, 

NEWLY  FURNISHED. 


Bath  and  Billiard  Rooms,  with  Barber 
Shop  attached. 


Board,  with  Rooms,  $2  a  day, 

OR  $12.00  A  WEEK. 

Suites,  $4  a  day,  or  $20  a  week. 


lii  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 

THE    NEW 

YosEMiTE  Hotel, 

Fred.  Leidig  &  Hugh  Davanay, 

PROPRIETORS. 


This  fine  new  Hotel  is  the  first  which  the  tourist 
reaches  on  entering  the  Valley,  and  is  situated  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Merced,  in  front  of  Cathedral  Rock, 
about  three  miles  from  the  entrance  to  the  Valley.  The 
main  building  is  two  stories  in  height,  roomy,  new  and 
clean,  plenty  of  pleasant,  airy  bedrooms.  Table  supplied 
with  fresh  mountain  trout  in  abundance,  in  addition  to 
fresh  butter,  milk,  eggs,  fruit  and  every  other  luxury  of 
the  mountains.  A  splendid  stock  of  ice  has  been  laid  in 
for  the  comfort  of  summer  visitors — a  luxury  not  to  be 
had  elsewhere  in  the  Valley. .  Bar  well  stocked  with  best 
qualities  of  Wines,  Liquors  and  Cigars. 

The  famous  Yosemite  hostess,  Mrs.  Leidig,  has  charge, 
of  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  House,  and  the 
Proprietors,  in  person,  give  their  whole  attention  to  the 
accommodation  of  their  guests. 


TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER.  liii 


OAKLAND    ! 


TAYLOR'S 

Carpet  Store 

Cor.   Broadway   and  Tenth   Sts., 

OAKLAND,   CAL. 


CARPETS,  Oil  Cloth,  Paper  Hangings  and  Upholstery 
Goods,  Body  Brussels,  Tapestry  Brussels,  Three  Ply, 
Ingrain  and  Hemp  Carpets. 

OIL  CLOTHS,  all  width  and  qualities. 

PAPER  HANGINGS,  all  styles  and  grades.  Plain 
and  Decorative  Paper  Hanging  in  all  its  branches. 

A  full  and  complete  line  of  UPHOLSTERY  GOODS 
always  in  stock. 

Parties  residing  in  Oakland  and  vicinity,  and  those  contemplating  removing 
to  Oakland,  vk^ill  do  well  to  call  and  examine  our  stock  before  purchasing 
elsewhere. 

We  Sell  all  Goods  at  Sau  Francisco  Prices  ! 

CHAS.  L.  TAYLOR, 
Cor.  Broadway  and  Tenth  Streets,  Oakland. 


liv  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 

Yosemite  House. 

STOCKTON,  CAL. 


ALEXANDER  McBEAN,  Profr. 


NEW  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL. 
Main  Street,  bet.  San  yose  and  Sutter, 


Centrally  Located,  Finely  Furnished. 


BATH  ROOMS,  BARBER  SHOP  AND  BILLIARD 
ROO:\I  ATTACHED, 


EXCELLENT  TABLE,  FINE  ROOMS,  GAS  AND 
WATER  THROUGHOUT. 


Terms;  S2.50  a  day,  S15.00  a  week. 


FREE  COACH  TO  THE  HOUSE. 


TOURIST'S   GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


t 


LORING'S 
RAILWAY  NOVELS! 


WE   COMMEND  THEM  TO  ALL  TRAVELERS. 


ASK  FOR  THEM  AT  THE  BOOKSTORES,  AT  THE  DEPOT 

NEWS  STANDS,  OF  THE  BOYS  IN  THE  CARS, 

AND  ON  THE  BOATS. 


LORING'S  SUCCESSFUL  BOOKS : 

Louise  M.  Alcott's  Moods,     -        -        -        -        -        -  $1.25 

*'              "         Three  Proverb  Stories,            -         -  .75 

Virginia  F.  Townsend's  Hollands,            -         -         -         -  1.25 

"                  "           The  Mills  of  Tuxbwry,              -  1.25 

Laura  Caxton's  Marion  Berkley, 1.50 

George  McDonald's  Robert  Falconer,           -         -         -  2.00 

"                 "          David  Elginbrod,     -         -         -         -  1-75 

"                 "          Adele  Cathcart,             -         -         -  1.75 

"                 **          Phantasies, 1.75 

Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney's  Hitherto,      .        .         .        .  2.00 

*'         The  Gayworthys,     -        -         -  2.00 

"         Patience  Strong's  Outings,    -  1.75 

"         Mother  Goose  for  Grown  Folks,  1.50 

"         Faith  Gartney's  Girlhood,    -  1.50 


4vi  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 

HENRY  G.  HANKS, 

Assay er  and  Chemist, 

AND   DEALER   IN 

Fine  Minerals,  Fossils,  Shells, 

ETC.,    ETC.,    ETC. 

Invites  Tourists  visiting  San  Francisco  to  call   and  examine 
his  collection  at 

649  Clay   Street, 

(UP  STAIRS.) 
TEAMS  AND  SADDLE   HORSES. 


CHURCH  &  WALLACE, 

386  First  Street,  San  Jose. 

Single  Horse  and  Buggy  to  Almaden  Mine,         -         -       $  5  00 

Elegant  Double  Teams, 10  00 

Saddle  Horses,  2  50 


Teams  ordered  by  Telegraph,  will  he  on  hand  at  the 
Railway  Depot. 


Woodward's  Gardens,  Mission  St.,  bet.  13th  and  14th,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


THE  CENTRAL  PARK  OF  THE  PACIFIC. 


Iviii  TOURIST'S  GUIDE  ADVERTISER. 


Yosemite  and  Big  Tree  Groves 

VIA 

Mariposa  and  Clark' s  or  Coulterville. 


Thus  a  person  can  leave  Sacramento  at  noon,  or  San  Francisco  at  4  p.  m. 
by  the  C  P.  R.  R.,  remain  over  night  at  the  junction  of  the  Rail  and  Stage 
roads,  the  second  night  at  White  &  Hatch's  and  arrive  in  the  Valley  of  the 
Yosemite  the  next  evening;  or  those  who  prefer  can  remain  that  night  at  Clark's 
and  ride  leisurely  into  the  Valley  early  the  next  day.  The  latter  course  might 
be  preferable  to  the  majority  of  tourists,  who  would  desire  to  visit  en  route 
the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  which  is  but  five  miles  from  Clark's. 
The  trail  from  Clark's  leads  through  Alder  Creek,  Empire  Camp,  Sentinel 
Dome,  Glacier  Point,  and  the  far-famed  "Inspiration  Point."  From  the 
latter  is  obtained  the  first  grand  view  of  this  wonderful  Valley,  lying  four 
thousand  feet  below  the  "  Point." 


LAKE    TAHOE, 

Via  Stage  fourteen  mQes  from  TRUCKEE 

DONNER    LAKE, 

Three  miles  from  either  TRUCKEE  or  SUMMIT. 

CALAVERAS  BIG  TREES, 

Via  Sti^e,  sixty-five  miles  from  G-^  LT,  or  sixtj'-two  miles  from  MOKELUMNE 


THROUGH  TICKETS: 

C.  p.  R.  R;  OFFICE,  422  CALIFORNIA  STREET. 

OAKLAND  WHARF. 

C.  &  N.  W.  Ry.  "{p  445  CALIFORNIA  STREET. 
C.  B.&M.  R.R.  "  214  MONTGOMERY  STREET. 
C.R.I.&P.R.R.  "  208  MONTGOMERY  STREET. 
K.  C.  St.  J.  &  C.  B.  R.  R.  OFFICE,  306  MONT.  ST. 


Ivi 


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