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THE

of
ElSTGLAND asdWALE S;

OK,
I^mZ.INEA TlOIfS

TOPO ORATHI CAL . Hi S T OKI C Al-
and
DESCRIPTIVE.

Vol.1.

Tj O K 15 O K:

Pubb.h.^ April ."■Boi.llJ-Vl'.JOfollCIlD™,

•y

THE

BEAUTIES

England and Tf^les;

OR,

TOPOORATHICAL, HISTORICAL, AND DBSCRTPTIVB|

EACH COUNTY.

EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS.

— . . ■ _

JOHN BRITTON and EDWARD WEDLAKE BRAYLEY.

VOL. I.

" Happy Britannia !

«t

Rich ii thy soil, and merciful thy clime :
** Thy streams unfailing in the Summer's drought :
** Unmatch'd tliy guardian oaks: thy vallies float
** With golden waves; and on thy mountains, floclu
'* Bleat numherlefs: — on every hand
*^ Thy villas (hine. Thy country teems with wealth.

Thomson.

LONDON:

Trmttd hj Tbmmt Msidm, SbtrkmmwlMiu^

POR VIRNOft AND ilOOD, LONGMAN AND ftlES, J. CDTHSLLt

J. AND A. AACH, W. J. AND J. AtCHAADSOK*

KHD CAOSBY A>ID LKTTKAMAN.

1801.

LIBRARY OF THE
lEUND 8TAfJF0R0\ln'. UfJIVERRTTY.

OCT ] WOO

ADVERTISEMENT.

H£ Subscribers to thb Woii are resp«c4fuUy inforiacd, tliat
the unient ilesire of the Editorii to r«iKkr ihe Iiitrddi;ctiom
■E comfilett as puuible, and ihe time and e^IL■n9ive reading ]iece»-
aaiy to tbe titll iove&tigation uwl arrangement of the numerous
Aid complex subjects it involves, }iav« induced tbein lo protraot
its publication till a more distant period. Thiii delay, the ex-
pediency of which cannot be questioned even by those wiho con-
uder tbe natuiv and extent of tbcir design with but partial
atlentioti, will afford leisure tai that ri'view of British, Boman,
■Jul Saxon History, »bich the Editors ini^ine ivill not only
jprovt interesting ttom tbv variety of objects it includes, but
will also elucidate the origiu of many of the important national
ngubuion*, which have stamped a chnractea- on diis I&land,
given stability to its laws, and extension to its commerce.

" The contemplation of a magnificent building, and of an cx-
tennve work," it was observed by a late eminent writer, " are
objects pleasing to the imagination ) but the construction in both
cases, may be embarrasacd with unforeseen contingencies, or im-
peded by unexpected MJcnnenea." 1%e general truth of this
remark has been ftfipcibly experience] by the Editors of this Pub-
lication i but it has neitlier retarded their exertions to render tt
worthy of cncODragemenl, nor impaired their resolution to
deserve success, tbe fiwl Volume of their Work is now before
tbe Public, whose decision i» awaited -with confidence intermingled
with fear. The former is the olTspringof the unceasing sohcilude
bestowed on this specimen of their assiduity ; the latter, of tbe
inaccuracies which, even with the most undivided attention, seem
budly possible to be avoided in a performance of this description.
A Through

BEAU

TIES

^^gland "and ^i

,. »!■•.«», „.,' "^ ~'tif.l ,1,, „7™" '

1801.

»1.

LIBRARY OF THt
\ . LELAND 8TAf:JF0Rn\lh\uiJIVERmY.

OCT 1 tm

ADVERTISEMENT.

Through the advice of several judicious litetaty ftieiids, the

Edilors have been induced to suspend the publication of the
names of the jimnerous correspondents who have favored them
with information till the <'onclusion of the Work, when they
will be incorporated with those of the gentlemen who contributed
to its embellishment, by the ^ft of either drawings or engravings.

The List of Topographical Writings, fitc, at the end of each
Volume, will only include the principal and particular works
that are illustrative of the counties described in it. The publi-
cations of a general nature, such as Camden's Britannia, and
Grose's Antiquities, can be introduced with greater propriety in
(he inlrudtictory observations.

The counties of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, and Buckinghamshire,
complete the present Volume, which the Subscribers are recom-
mended to have done up in Boards, with the Engravings placed
at the beginning, and silver paper between each. When the
Work is finished, proper directions will be given for the arrange-
ment of ihe Plates in the respective counties they are intended
to embellish. ■ .•■" ■ '

BEAUTIES

Cttglairti anb tJKalffi.

BEDFORDSHIRE.
Bedfordshire, wiih tiic adjoining coumics orBicmyo-

HAH and HEKTFoao, whs. iabubiteii at the lime of lUc Uomun
invasion, by the people named Cattifuulilam, or Casaii; whoae
chief, Cassivbllaunus, was chosen by the unanimous consent
of the Britons lu lead their armies against [he arrogant Casar.*
Why the inhabitanL'' oftliese parts were thus denominated, is not
ea«y to determine; nciliiei', infact, t:« the exact rcadingof the term
known to us, a variation beiii^ observable both in the copies of Din
and PtoUmg. To attempt cxplaiuiitg its meaning, therefore, would
seem like a desire to amut^e by visionaiy conjectures, rather than
to instruct by warrantublc deductions. Cainden supposes, they
obtained the name Ca^^ii from Gcai, which, in the language of
ancient Gaul, signified Brave or Warlike, Thai they had tlic re-
putation of good soldiers, he uUils, is plai
dueeii part of tlie Dobuni.

Wlicn the ILinpcrurCoiistantine, in tlie year 310, divided Britain
into Roman pro\inccs, this county was included in the third divi-
fdoii, caUedpLAviACjESAaiEssis. At the establishment of the
kingdom of Mcrcia, it v/as attached to that govenunent, and so

Vol. I. B continued

• Vcni, Vidl. Vlci, fltamt. J taw, /tsijuereJ,) w« the bconicmd proud
bout of thit imbiiioui chkfiain when he Knl in KCOunl of bii idvcntuFci in
Briliin 10 the Romui uiau: bui ('<..., ^uli, fUCJ, (J umt, I jm, I fiA,)
would have been t leDtfDcc marc agncablc lo iiuth. He, himtelF, infoiisi us,
ihU he x* uil on ihe mldmghi uf ihc t.i<y iiy when hii victoiies hid forced ihe
'Britoni lb luc Tor peac«^ Why did he da [hit if hehad rcmaicid i conqueror I
Lttf exprriily tcnm hit embaikilioti i/'j''.

Q from tJicir having re-

8 fiEDFOKDSUIRB.

continueJ till ihc year 827. when, with Iha ottipr diri'iiom of the
island, it became sulyect to the West-Saxons, under Egbert.

On the more accurate division of the kingdom into shires. Sec.
by llie great Alfred, this county was called Bedfordshire: pro-
bably from the name of its chief town, which the Britons are said
fo have named Z^/firf«r; in English, Bedford. Lethiy, signifying
Public Inns; and Dtir, a Ford; and by an easy transition, BciU
on a Ford. Such is tlie ridiculous etymology which some writers
ha^'e given us of this name. In our account of Bedford, the reader
will linil one more rational.

This county is boumled on the north by the shires of Northamp-
ton antl Huntingdon ; on the east, by the latter, and that of Cam-
bridge; on the south, and south-cast, by Hertfordshire; and oa
the west, and south-west, by Buckinghamshire. In the nccoimtB
of its size there is a considemble difference; some authors estimating
its Ici^h at 26 miles, and its breadth at 1 S : others at 33 by 33.
In AiKm's England Delineated, its greatest length Ls computed
at 35 miles, and its utmost breadth at 20: and these dimension.*'
appear os near to the truth, as an acquaintance with the best maps
and surveys will enable us to determine. Its circumference may
be between 90 and a JOO miles. It contains about C60,000 acres,
9 liimdreds, 10 market towns, 124 parishes, 58 vicarages, 550
villages, 12 or 13,000 houses, and nearly 70,000 inhabitants.

The limits of the county are very irregular; its only naturnlones
are, the Ouie for a short distance on the east and west sides, and u
rivulet on the south-west border. The face of the county is pleas-
ingly varied, being broken into small hills and vallies. Southwards
s range of dialk eminences rises to a considerable height, and some-
times projects into the lower grounds in a bold and abrupt manner.
Beneath these hills is an extensive tract of hard, steril land, ap-
pearing cold, dreary, and uncomfortable. Some very rich dairy
ground, terminated on the north by sandy hills, extends in a line
from the middle of the county to the south-east comer. The west-
cm side is mostly flat, and sandy; yet, being ivell managed, ii pro-
duces great quantities of beans. On the north and north-cast, the
soil is a deep loam, iamous, from the goodoess of its cultivation,

ibi

BBDFOBDSniRE.

for growing large crops of corn, parliculariy barley. A great pro- ^
purtioit of ibc land ie in open or common fields, timt ucicunquer'
able impeilunent tu Ihc pruf^ress of egricullui'al knowledge. A
number of line wooilti arc intenpened ihrou^houl the county ; the
timber of which is occa.sionally felled, and most part of it sent by
Ibe Ouse to the sea-coast.

Tbiii county partakes as little of the advantages and disadvan-
:s and trade as any in the kingdom. The chief
employment of the poor is aj^riculture and lace-making. The
manufacture of str<i.w hats has considerably increased of late
I but this business extends very little beyond the town and
neighbourhood of Dunstable. Its produce is principally com
and butter: much of the fomic.r in leni down the Ousn to Lynn,
in Norfolk; most of the latter is conveyed by lanil-carriago to

^ONDOK.

Drpadim, hugeMiT«oTot.iil
ThiHi, like ■whirlpool, draui'it the countiy round,
Till London mirkct, London price, iriouail
Through every town, round cury puiing lo»d |
And dnity produce ihrangi th« caiMra Toid :
. Delicious veal and bullet, every hour

From Ei»i lowlindi, ind the bank) oF Stour;
And fuRlter, (ar, where nunieioui herdt repoM,
From Onvell'i biiak, f/om Weveny, or Oule.

Some of the parishes produce large quantities of v^etablcs, with
which the surrounding country is supplied to a considerable extent,

llie principal risers are the Ouse and the Ivel: titc former enters
the county on the west, between the little villages of Bradlield and
Turvey, and, after a «ery devious course through a number of fine
meadows, to which its waters give beauty and fertility, passes the
town of Bedford, where it becomes navigable, and then (lowing to
llie east, leaves (he county at St. Neot's on the confines of Hun-
tingdonshire. This river is renuirkable for the slowness of its mo-
tion, and for the many windings which it makes in so short a dis-
tance, J'rom Turvey to St. Neot's is hardly I9 miles ; yet the me-
atidcrin)^ of the Ouse are supposed to extend to the lengih uf

4 BlIDFORDSHIRSV

Seventy. *It divides the county into two parts; and in a wet
season is liable to sudden and great inundations.

The river Ivel rises in Hertfordshire, and passing Baldock and
Biggleswade, falls int© the Ousc a little above Tempsford.

Bedfordshire is in the diocese of Lincoln, in the Norfolk circuit.
It sends four mem be re to parliament; viz. two for the shire, and
two for Bedford ; pays seven parts of the land-tax, and provides
400 men to the militia. It is one of the seven counties that lie
togethci* without a city among them. These arc Huntingdon,
Bedford, Bucks, Berks, Hertford^ Elssex, and Surry.

BEDFORD,

V T|1E most considerable town in this county, both with respect to
size and population, is of great antiquity. It is supposed by some
writers to have been the Lactidorum of Antoninus; but this, as
Camden observes, is unlikely ; as it does not stand on the Roman
road ; neither have any Roman coins ever been found there.

Under the Sdxon dominion, it was called Bedan-^ford, or rather,
according to Dr. Salmon, Bcdician forda ; words signifying the For-
tress on the Ford ; and derived from the fortifications established
on the banks of the river Ouse, which flows through the town, and
divides it into two parts. Even then, in all probability, it was a
town of considerable importance; for Off a, the powerful king
of the Mercians, chose it for his burial-place: his bones were in-
terred in a small chapel, which being seated on the river's brink,
was afterwards undermined, and swept away by the floods during
an inundation.

• In the year 57 ^f a pitched battle was fought here, between the
Saxon, Cuthwolf, and the Britons. The latter were defeated, and
obliged to deliver up several of their towns to the haughty conqueror.

The Danes, in the reign of Edward the Elder, having plundered
and destroyed the town, that prince repaired and united it to
MikesgatCy a little village on the opposite bank. Since that time
both places have been called, by the general name, Bedford. The
following year 91 1> the Danes were.severely bcatcaitt this vicinity.

Subsequent

SEDTORDatllRE.

Subsequent 10 Ihe Norman invasion, a strong castle was erec
oil the nonli-easl side of tlie town, by Pagan tic BoauchMiijj, ihc
tliiril baron of fiedford, Ttiis tabric was encum passed bv a vast en-
U-enchment of earth, as well as a lofty and ihitk wall. " While it
stood," says Camden, " thteru was no storm of civil war which
<lid not bui'sl upon il."

When Stephen, in direct violation of lib oalli, usurped the
British thronct iic bcsici;ed and reduced this castle. Of the fate
that awaited its ilcfcndcis, we are ignorant, as the accouiUa 4»ry.
Cumclcn observes, that the King toot llic fortress with great slaugh-
ter; vet other historians assert, that he gi'nnled the g.irrison hu-
niirablc lonns,

Ounng the contest between the barons and the eniel, despotic,
and treacherous King John, it was delivered up to iht.- former by
it4 lord, William de lluauchump; but was al'terwards wivtti'd from
iheir tianrU by the forcat imdcr the commnnii f>t Falcatiiu, uv Fiilca
tie Ureal, to whom it was given by the King, bs a reward for hi*

In the reign of Henry the Third, De Brent* rebelled against his
Sovereign. He had been guilty of numerous depraved and villaiti-
uus acts in the surrounding country i and, at length, being fearful
of punishment, had pulled down the religious houses of the ueigh-
b<furhood, and applied the materials to strengthen and forlily his
castle. Highly indignant at thcsi; repealed atrocities, the Monarch
luid siege to the fortress, and, at^craconlcst of sixty days, during
which Falcasius disputed the ground by inches, made himself mas-

■ Thiibolilcrouiman, lltiubwR obKivcil, hid. " lomelhin^Urriblrinhim
bfyond ihe [ul ofhiiige. He wai both bully ronhe King and agiitiit him."
Yti, noiwilhiunding hiicrimct, hy which hii XiU hid beon repcaudly fotffilcd,
wii, by ID exertion of JilicclciDcncy, pcrmitlcd [ocnd itinufety. Oaeiniiince
of hii diring ehiracler riloo tcmirkable 10 be paffcd over id .dence. The Kins',
iliiietiiit jtuticu, having opcnrJ 1 couit II Dunitablc, lined him in i large lum
far die ravija which he and hi> Iretbootrri had, al difFrrrol limei, commiiled.
Thii conduct incenfcd him ; ind he diipilchcd hi) broihcr with i coiii|iany of
inncd raenlo seiie upon hii judgei. Two of Lhrm CKiprd; but (he third wu
lucn, ind conitiKd in dK cudc, wbcic he wi% treated with great indi^iiiy ind
rigor

BEDF0RD9HIT

ter of tbc " Nursery of Sedition." On the surrwiHer of the cutle,
DcBretttwas sent to London, and there imprisoned; buthi* bro-
ther, and twenty-four other knights, were executed on the spot.

An account of this siege, in the words of a cotemporary writer,
and eye-witness, t may prove interesting. Even in that age, the
cngint's used for the destruction of man, were scarcely less inge-
nious and ctlicacious than those employed in our own,

" On thceaslside H'as onepctraria, and two mangonella, which
duly battered the tower; and on the west side, two mangonella
ruined (ho old tower; and one mangonelln on the south, and one on
the north, made two breaches in the wall opposed to them. Be-
sides these, there were two wooden machines raised above the height
of the tower and castle for the cross-bowmen, and slingers lay in
imibusb. There was also a machine, called a cat, under which
miners had free parage to sap the walls of the tower and castle.
The castle was taken by four assaults. In the first was taken tho
barbican; in the second, the outer hail: in the third, the wall
net! r the old tower was overthrown by the miners, through the
breach of which tliey, with great danger, niade themselves masters
of the inner bail. On the fourth assault the miners set fire to the
tower; and when the smoke hurst out, and great cracks appeared
in the tower, the besieged surrendered. The sheritT wai oi'dered
to demolish the tower and outer bail. The inner, after it was dis-
mantled, and the ditches filled up all round, was left for William
de Beauchamp to live in. The stones were given to the canons of
Newnham and Chaldweil, and the church of St. Paul at Bedford."
Tliis William de Beauchamp, it appears from Leland, was a
descendant of the original builder.

The site of tlie castle forms a parallelogram, divided by a lane ]
(he keep is now a bowUng-grcen. No remains of the fabric can be
seen, but the whole circuit may be traced, and the banks on two
sides are verj- bold. In digging for stone, part of the foundations
was discovered, as well as several pieces of coin, andaspcarofan
\incommnn size,

t Chronicle of Dunivptv.

BBDFOaDSHIIlE.

It) the wign of Edward the First, tlie liberties of Bedford were j
seized by that Mooarcb, tiie bnilifb havii^ uE^ccted tu dUchargu
the cruwD rents. Henry the Seventh treated tlic inhabitants ir
fkvorsbly. MaUox, in his Firma Burgi, inforros us, liiat the
town being much decayed, many of tbe houses goite tw ruin, the
trade of it brought low, and the usual issues discontinued, they
besought the King to sbow them his grace; accordingly, he grant-
ed that the yearly form which they paid to the crown should be
lessened.

The government of the town is vested ina mayor, who is elected
annually on I^Iiebaelmas-day, recorder, deputy reeorder, an indeli'
nite number of aldermen, two bailiff?, and thirteen common coun-
cil-men. The bailifla for the time being, are lords of the manor,
and have tbe right of fishery to the extent of the bounds, which
contain a space upwards ofnine miles in circumference. The last
renewal of their charter was in the reign of James the Second, in
whose time the mayor and aldermen were removed from their re-
spective offices by royal mandate, for not electing two hu;^esses
to serve in parUament. The iijembers were, in conseijuence,
chosen by his Majesty's ministers. This borough sent members as
early as the twenty-third of Edward the Fii^t : it was then governed
by a mayor. Henry the Third granted it to the burgesses in fee-
&rm for 401. a year. The right of election is, nominally, in the
burgesses, freemen, and inhabitant householders not receiving alms.
the number of voters is about 1400. This is the only market
town in the county north of the Ouse. The as.sines were always
held here, ejicept in the year 1(J34, when the interest of the Earl
of Aylesbury transferred them to Ampthill.

Bedford is seated in the midst of a very rich tract of land, called
the Vale of Bedford, the soil of which being exceedingly fruitful,
and well cultivated, produces abundant crops of fine wheat, bar-
ley, and turnips. The land on the north side is a strong clay ; that
on ibe south, though, in general, lighter, is yet a good staple.
The natural fertility of the vale is much increased by the overflow-
I iag of the river Ouse, across the stream of which tliere is a strong
I ttone brid(;e, believed to have been built witii the materials of the
13 4 ruined

8 BEDFORDSHIRE.

ruined castle. On the center of the bridge stood the town goal,
which was taken down about thirty-four years since. It served as
well for the confinement of felons, as for a barrier dividing the
north and south sides, so that no person could pass without per-
mission of the keeper. The river was made navigable to Lynn in
Norfolk by act of parliament.

Bedford, in the time of Camden, was more celebrated for its
pleasant situation, than for either its extent or beauty ; but it has
since been considerably improved both in size and population.
Within the last ten years, many buildings, public as well as pri-
vate, have been erected : indeed, few towns have so rapidly in-
creased in so short a period. The inhabitants may be estimated
at about 5000; one half of whom are dissenters. The principal
street is nearly a mile in length. The town-hall is a handsome
modern structure.

A new town goal has lately been erected, and a county goal
(expected to be finished in May) is now building. Towards the
completion of this structure the late Mr. "Whitbread left a legacy of
50001. Twenty alms houses are likewise building by the trustees
of the Ilarpur charity ; and two new roads have been made at the
north end of the town, one leading to Kettering, the other to Kim-
bolton.

In Bedford are five distinct parishes, and an equal number of
churches; four meeting-houses of different denominations ; a Me-
thodist meeting-house, and a chapel for Moravians: the latter sect
perform service every Sunday and Thursday, on which days the
solemnity of worship is increased by a good band of vocal music.
Their chapel is called the Single-House.

The churches of St. John and St. Mary stand om the south side
of the river; those of St. Peter, St. Cuthbert, and St. Paul, on
the north. The latter is the principal ornament of the town;
it is adorned with an octagonal stone spire. Before the conquest
it was collegiate, the prebends having their houses round the church :
afterwards it was changed into a priory of canons regular, and re-
moved to Newenham (about a mile lower) by Roisia, the wife of
Pagan de Beauchamp, and her son Simon.

^< Simo^

" Simon tie Beanchamp," says Leland, " lyelh afarc the high
attar of St. Paul's church. In BeJeford, willi tliis cpiinpliie graven
in biw, and set on a flat marble stone:"

' Under this marblu lyeth Simon Ue Benuchamp,
* Fouoder of Neivenham.'

The only remains of tlib religious house, is a wall inclosing the
site, at the three comersof which aiv hills wit hdilchcs round them.
The revenues at the dissolution were computed nt 293I. 5s. lid.

" There were two hospitals in the suburbs of Bedford, the
houses whereof and chapels yet stand, both founded by the towns-
men; SL John's on the riglit-hand, first coming in from south to
Bedford; and then on the same hand a little a-iide is St. Leonard's.
The Grey Friars stand flat in the north-west of the town."*

The hospital of St, John consists of a master, who is rector
of the chui-ch, and icn poor men. This li thotight to have been
founded in 980, by Robert Depaiis, who was tlie fir^t master.
Some curious particulars relative to this house were destroyed by
the fire at the Cotton library. St. Leonard's was built and endowed
towards the end of the reign of Edward the First. The revenue was
valued at +61. 6s. 8d. The hospital of Grey Friars was founded in
the reign of the succeeding Monarch, by the Lady Mabilia do Pa-
lershall, who was buried in the cemetery. This establishment
bmishet a signal proof of the mutations to which all temporary pos-
sessions are subjected. The friary itself is converted inlo a farm;
the cloisters arc fitted up for rooms ; and the refectory is a barn !

Bedford is distinguished by many liberal donations for charitable
purposes: the management of these gifts is vested in the corporation.

Mr. Thomas Christy, who formerly represented this borongh tn
pariiament, repaired the old-town hall, situated near' St. Paul'i
church, and founded an hospital for eight poor people, as well
as a charity-school for forty children.

But the donation, from which the poor of the town have derived
the most considerable benefit, was the gift of the beneficent Sir

WiUiam

10 BEbFORDBHIRB.

William Harpur, who, by virtue and industry, acquired an ample
fortune. He was a native of Bedford, and became lord mayor of
London in 156l. The singular increase in the value of this gift
requires a full relation.

The corporation of Bedford, in the year 1553, petitioned King
Edward the Sixth to erect a Protestant free-school, for the edu-
cation of youth in the pure and genuine principles of the reformed
religion.

Sir William, having purchased thirteen acres and one rood of
meadow land, lying in the parish of St. Andrew, Holbom, for 1801.
gave it, by deed dated the 22d of April, 1566, to the corporation,
together with his late dwelling-house, &c. in Bedford, for the main-
tenance of a master and usher of the said school ; and for ap-
portioning maidens of the town, on their enti^ into the state of
wedlock.

The annual rent for the support of these purposes amounted to
about 401. per annum, till the year l668, when the corporation
leased the whole of the lands in the parish of St. Andrew, for the
termof 4-1 years, at the yearly rent of 99I. In the year l684 a
reversionary lease was granted for the further term of 51 years, at
the improved rent of 1501. In consequence of granting these leases,
a great number of houses was built, and the following streets, &c.
formed upon the above meadow land. Bedford-Street, Bedford*.
Row, Bedford-Court, Prince's-Street, Theobald's-Row, North-
Street, East-Street, Lamb's Conduit-Street, Queen-Street, Eagle-
Street, BoswcU-Court, Green-Street, Harpur-Street, Richbell-
Court, Hand-Court, Gray's Inn-Passage, Tliree Cup Yard, &c.
&c. The annual rent from which is now increased to more than
40001. and in three or four years, is expected to amount to 5000).
or upwards.

This great and almost unparalleled augmentation of revenue,
lias obliged the trustees to apply to parliament for two several acts
to extend the objects of the charity, and regulate the application
of the receipts. By these provisions of the legislature the income is
thus appropriated.

BEDFORDSHIRE, U

To the maintenance of a master and nsiier of llio grammar
■Choul ; aod exhibitions to the scholars for either of thi> universitiM.
M)unlcnance of a. master anii two usher; to tho English school.
Idsi Qtc na nee, clu thing, andeducatinganumberof children. Mar-
fiage of forty poor maidens annually. Apprenticing of forty poor
children anai ml ly. Allowing of benefactions to such apprentices as
have served their times faithfully. Endowmi-nts of alms-houses for
decayed tradesmen. Gratuity to girls at ser>ice ; and distribution
of asurpluslo the poor of the town annually.

TTie school is situated near St. Paul's Church. Over the door isa
■tatue of the founder, carved in white marble. He is dreased
in his robcii as aldcnnan. Beneath is a Latin inscription to thia

effect.

Behold, Traveller, the bodily Rbsemblancb

Of Sir WILLIAM HARPUR, Knight,

Of this School,

The munificent Foundeii.
The Picture of uia Mind

Is DELINEATED IN THE TabLE OF B^NEFACTIOKS.

An institution of this description, when managed by persons of
judgment and approved integrity,* (as in this case it undoubtedly
is,) may be made conducive to the welfare of thousands. The
lower classs arc not, nataraltg, vicious; to suppose it, is to libel
the God of nature I Want and poverty arc the parents of vice; for
nothing so absolutely destroys the feelings of morality, as the
heart-consuming pressure of continual distress. It is that which'

burst*

" Wi fay approved mitg lily, because the mansgnsof many baicvolcnl InstUii.
tioiu have piDUiiutcd ihcm to purpoiei very Jilfcrcnt from thou inlcnil«l to
be effected by iheit hcnelicent fbuoden. Many chuitia are bit; othen are to in-
volved in iheiubtleiin of legal (hicanery, ihgtthe object) intended la be relieved
never lectivt; ibc benefit. It would be well if lit legisliture wece la make an act
for cNamining into the rtateof ill ohsriiable doiniiom, the mode in which
^preduce anglH In be applied, and ihe manner in which itji t/lwUly expended,
Niawroiw, very Qumeroiu, abuie* would be dutovowd by thii raeani.

It BEDFORDSHIRE.

bursts asunder the bands of society and justice, and renders man
every thing to his kind, but a protector and a friend.

To provide for the well-doing of the adult, we should attend to
the culture of his early youth. Implant just principles, and firm
rectitude and upright conduct will invariably result. Tliis cha-
rity, by providing for the children of the poor, at an age when the
passions are beginning to unfold, and the spirit of dawning man-
hood spurns at the trammels of infant tutorage, seems well cal-
culated to become the basis of a fair structure of wide-spreading
utility. The donation to females is not without its concomitant
share of beneficial consequences. A small sum will frequently
enable an idustrious couple to commence some business, which,
by attention and frugality, is quickly converted into the means of
obtaining a comfortable livelihood.

Besides these charities, a house of industry has lately been
opened for the reception of all the poor of the five consolidated pa-
rishes, where, from the establishment of a flannel manufactory,
the poor are comfortably fed ; and that without any additional
burden on the inhabitants from the increased pressure of the times.

The lace manufactory employs a great number of the lower
classes; children scarcely four years of age are set douTi to it.
The persons engaged in this business are chiefly the female poor,
many of whom,: throughout the county, are employed in this de-
licate manufacture. An employment more profitable, or better
suited to their condition, cannot, in all probability, be found.
On certain days, the persons appointed by the dealers collect the
lace at the different villages, and convey it to the London market.

Though the situation of this tONvn is low, it appears to be heal-
thy; many natives, who made it their residence, having been
known to live till they arrived to the age of ninety and upwards.

The Barony* of Bedford was originally possessed by Httgk
de Beauchamp, who attended the Conqueror when he invaded
England, to whom no less than forty-three lordsliips were given in

this

• A Barony, in former ages, was a certain portion of land held immediately
of the King, and containiiig, according to Dugdak, not }cft than 40 hides, or
3840 acres.

county. The inheritBtice continued in this family (with some
lit lie variation) till the battle of Evcrsham, in the reign of Henty
the Third, when John, the then possessor, havinc; joined the re-
bellious barons, ivas slain in the field. His estates were confisca-
ted, and given to Prince Edwnril, to wliosc great exertions the
success of the day was attributed ; but they were aftcnvards divi-
ded among the heirs fesnale.

This ancient family of the Eeauchamps were htrtditary almonen
to the King at his coronation. The following particulars relative
tu thb oflice are worthy attention.

Previous to ihf coronation of Henry the Fourth, his second
son, Thomas, who sat as lord hi[;h steward of England in the
Whiti-hftll of the King's Palace at Westminster, caused a procla-
mation to be made, " that what Nobleman or other, that could
clajnc any office that day of the solemnizing the King's coronation,
they should cumo and put in their byllca comprehending their
demandz: whereupon divers officers and fees were claimed, as
well by bylles, a* othenvise by speech of mouth," Among the
claimants was Julin, Lord Latimer, who, for himself and the
Duke of Norfolk, by his attorney, Sir Thomas Grey, Knight,
claimed, and had the office of almoner for the day; by reason of
certain lands which somclime belonged to the Lord William Beau-
damp, of Jiedford. They had a ivted of fine linen cloth prepa-
red, to put in the silver that was appointed to be given in
alms: and likewise the di^^tribution of the cloth that covered thft
puvement and Huoni, from the door of the King's chamber to the
pulpil in Westminster Abbey.

At the coronation of King James the Second, the Earl of Exeter,
Sir George Blundell, and Thomas Snaggs, as being seized of se\T?-
«l parts of tlie Baroiii/ of Bedford, respectively claimed to exe-
cute the oflice of almoner; and as the fecsuf thatofScc, to have
the silver alms-bason, and tlie distribution of all thesilver tliercin;
the clM, spread for their Majesties to walk on, tlie fine linen
towel, a tun of wine, &c. the claim being referred to the King,
he afipointed the Earl, pro hSc vice,* with a salto jure t to thu

other
'■ • rorihinimei or, oa ihU octiiion. t Saviogrighi

(4' BBDFORDSHtKE.

Oilier two : but the filler diti, and the cloth in Westmimter-Iiall,
to the wc^t dour of the itbhey-church, only, were allowed.

Iktiford was made a dukedom by Henry the Fil'tb. The first
w jio poiisesscd the title was Jo/ai Pi/intagenet, third son of Henry
th« Fouith. The illustrious actions of this great and meniorahlo
character are pnrticu laxly detailed in our hislories. He was se-
veral times constituted Lieutenant of the whole realm of England,
during tlic absence of the King, while employed in the con-
quest of France. He defeated the French fleet at tlie mouth of tha
Seine; and was utlcrwards Regent of France during the tni-
nODty of Henry the Sixth. In this situation the exertion of his
splendid talents rendered the superiority of his country manifest,
in a season pregnant with misfortune, and teeming with diflicully.
He died at Houcn, in 1435. and was buried in tlie cathedral of
that city. His death operated like a mildew on the English ban-
ner, stopping the progress of its success, and dimming the lustre of
its glory. His monument was visited by Charles the Eighth of
France i on that occasion, a nobleman, who accompanied the King,
solicited him to give orders for the demolition of the tomb : but his
Majesty refused, with (his remarkable answer; " Let him reft in
jxaee, moil- ic u dead: it vios viken he xboh atixe, and in the afield,
that France dreaded him."

The second duke was Gtvrge Nezil, second surviving son to the
carl of Salisbury. He v/aa aiivanced to this dignity about tha
the tenth of Edward the Fourth; but in the seventeenth of the
same King was deprived of his honors by authority of parlia-
ment, under pretence, that his ijkcome was not equal to his rank,
aod that needy nobles are always burdensome or oppressive to their
neighbours. The true reason of the King's displeasure, by
which the parliament was induced to pass this act, is supposed to
have originated with the Marquis MoiUai-ule, the duke's father,
who had sided with the house of Lancaster.

Jasper dc Hatfield, Earl of Pembroke, was the tlurd duke. He
was honored with this title by his nephew, lieniy the Seventh,
whom he had rescued from iunuiaeut danger at tho battle of
Botworth Field.

BEDFORDSHIRE. 15

It aflcTwards reverted to an earldom, and was bestowed by
, King Eduard the Sixth upon Jnhn Russd, uf whose origin tlic
rentier will find some particulars annexed to oiir account of the
family seat at Woburn.

At Elstow, about one mile from Bedford, and opposite to
Newenham, was an abbey of Benedictine nuns, founded by Ju-
dith, niece to the Conqueror, and wife to Waltheof^ Earl ofHun-
tingdon. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Virgin Mary,
and Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great. At the db-
, solution its revenues were valued at 2841. 12s. Il^d.

The church is a very tine structure, with a detached tower on,
Ae north-west. The arch at Uic north door is beautifully orna-
mented in the zig/ag manner. The three arches of the chancel
are round with si|uare pillars. In the churcli are several shields
in stone, with tlie cnms and memorials of the passion: these, it \a
probable, were the abbey arms.

TTie celebrated, ingenious and pious writer, Mr. John Bunyan,
was bora in this viili^e in 1638. llaviikg received the rudiment*
of a common education, he was bred to the business of a braxier*
sad workcil as a journeyman at Bedford. At the breaking out of
the civil warn, he entered into the parliament army, where ha
was converted, and became a baptist. He commenced preach-
ing about l65b', and continued that avocation till the year Ib'dO,
when the mistaken policy of the times caused him to be arrested,
and thrown into piison, where lie remained twelve years. During
that time he supported himself and his family by the making and
tagging of long thread luces.

The friendly oflices ofBishop Barlow, of Lincoln, released him
from confinement. After this he went through various patU of

I the kingdom, practising the duties of an itinerant minister. On
the issuing of the famous declaration by James the Second for li-
berty of conscience, Mr. Bunyan settled at Bedford, where his
exertions procured him an extensive congregation. He died in
l68a at London.
This author's works have been printed in two volumes folio.
His writii^s are ii^enioas, but strongly tinctured with the
debasing

:I^ BBD70RDSHIRX.

debasing spirit of Calvinisin. His allegory of the Pilgrim's Progress
has, perhaps, ^one through more editions than any book in th^
world, excepting the Bible. It was written during his confine-
ment in the county goal.

DUNSTAPLE, OR DUNSTABLE.*

The origin of this town lies buried, with many others, in the
ruins of antiquity. That it was a British settlement prior to the
invasion of the Romans, the derivation of the name given to it by
Antofiinus renders extremely probable : and that it was a principal
station of the latter people, the intersection of the two main roads,
and the stupendous earth-work in the vicinity, are unquestiona*
ble testimonies. The words Maes Gwyn^ or the White Field,
which, according to Mr. Baxter, become Magionuinion in the
plural, agree* so well with its situation on a chalky soil, that a
doubt of its being the Magiovinium of the Itinerary can hardly
be entertained. The etymology of the name Dunstaple must be
deduced from other sources.

From the monkish record quoted by Camden, it appears that
the structure at the meeting of the Watling and Ikening ways
was first raised by Henry the Elder to curb the practices of Dun,.
a famous robber, and his associates; and from him the place was
called Dunstaple. This ridiculous derivation is undeserving of
credit. That the residence or stable of a notorious freebooter
should have been left undisturbed, after the establishment of a
regular government, and the vengeance 6f the laws contented by
only circumscribing the scope of his knavery, cannot be believed
for a single moment. Yet, as most stories, however absurd, are
founded on realities, we may conclude, that, after the town
had been ruined by the Danes, it was neglected, and became
"an harbour for thieves, who easily eluded pursuit in the

woods

* The latter name is generally adopted, though the foriqer is moM ancicot, aadi

better corresponda with its etymology.

BEDFORDSHIRE. 1?

• woods* with which the country is reported to have been overrun ;
and that this circumstance induced Henry the First to attempt a
second colonization of this spot.

To effectuate his purpose, the Monarch issued a proclamation,
offering great privileges to such of his subjects as chose to settle at
Dunstable: and, in order to destroy the shelter of the robbers,
he directed the woods to be grubbed up, and established both a
feir and a market. The most obvious etymology, therefore, is
from Dununij or Dun, a Hill, (explanatory of its situation,) and
Staple, Merchandise, or Mart for Commerce, as it was rendered
by Henry's maricet.

Dunstable is seated near the entrance of the Chiltern hills, at
the junction of the Icknield and Watling streets. The name of
the former is still prcser\ed in that of Ilichiill, which issues from
the town on the north side of the church, and is said to connect
the cities of Oxford and Cambridge.

The town consists of four principal streets, intet^ecting each
other at right angles, and running nearly in the direction of the car-
dinal points. The houses arc mostly of brick, and some of them
have the appearance of considerable antiquity. As the soil is des-
titute of springs, the inhabitants are supplied from four large ponds,
in which the rain- water from the hills is collected, and prevent-
ed soaking into the earth by chalky bottoms. No water can be
obtained from wells, but at the depth of one hundred and sixteen
feet, whence it is commonly drawn by the aid of machinery.

The inhabitants may be computed at about 1000; a number
that, from the register of births and marriiiges, appears to have
been but little varied for the last hundred years. Their religion
is chiefly that of the established church ; though there is one small
congregation of Quakers, and another of Anabaptists.

Vol. I. C Dunstable,

* These woods (if any considerable ones ever existed near this place} roust
have been formed of the smaller species of trees and underwood, as the more
mighty tenants of the forest could not have found sufEcient nutriment ; the foil
in this neighbourhood being only 2 Jtw inches in depth, with a hard chalk be>
low it.

Dunstable, Market-Street, Hochliffc, &c. are principally sup-
ported by the passage of travellers ; being situated on the great
thoroughfare to the north and north-west counties. The inns ar©
thickly clustered ; and several of them very large and commodious.
Many of the poor derive sustenance from the manufacture of straw
hats, baskets, and other articles of the same fashionable sub-
stance. * And some additional employment is furnished by the
whiting manufactory, which stands at the southern extremity of
the town. In the straw work, which is the staple manufacture of
this place, a woman can earn from 6s. to 12s. a week; children,
from 3s. to 4s. in the same time. The earnings in this line,
within the last twenty years, have been very great. A few womea
in the town make lace. '

Formerly the breweries established here raised many of the in-
habitants to affluence; but most of the trade is now concentrated
in the metropolis. HoUinshed informs us, that an eminent brewer
of this town, named William Murlie, sallied out in the reign
of Henry the Fifth, to join the foolish insurrection of the Lollards,
near London. He took with him a pair of gilt spurs, and was fol-
lowed by two led horses with rich trappings. This gave colourto
the report of his expecting to receive the honour of knighthood
from Lord Cobham ; but, mstead of this, he had the hard luck to
be taken, and hung with the spurs about his neck.

The

* Such is the effect oifaskion^ that what was deemed by our fore&then, only
fit to be trampled on in the cow barken, is now very commonly converted into
ernaments for the ladies' heads. This circumstance gave rite to the following
Witty and satirical lines, by M. P. Andrews, El'q.

Some bdies* heads appear like stubble fitldf-—

Who now of threatened famine dare complain.
When every female forehead teems with grain ?
See how the wheat'sheaves nod amid the plumes !
Our bams are now transferr'd to drawing-roomas
And husbands, who indulge in active lives,
To fill xhxAX granaries^ may thrask their wives,
• tfoT wives alone prolific, notice draw ;

OM maidsand young one»— a// are in the Straw I

BEnFORDSHlKB. J$

Tke glory of Dunslablc waa its once celebrated priory ; yet of
this exkinsive building iiutiiing remains, but the part now appro-
priated /or the (urisli churob, and two arches in the adjoining
wall. Il wa* founded by Henry ihe First, about the year 1131,
for black raoons, in huiiouf of St. Pcier. At the dissolulioii of the
religious houses, its revenues, accurding tu Dugdole, amounted
M S44l. 13». per annum.

Tho priory cliurch was ori^nally in the form of a cross, nith f
Mveiintlivcoulre, bupporb^d by four lufly arches; parts of wliicli,
fadloi^ng to the two wuslcm pillars, atiU remain : these arc of «
iMge Mne, with clustered Columns, and surmounted with hexagon
capitali. Tliis fabric appears to have been very extea^ive and
nugnlAcent. Henry thu Kighth inli-'udei) it tor a cathedral, and
Dr. Day Cur the lint bishop. When this design was aban<loneJ,
it is proliablc, that a considerable part of (he structure was dcmo-
Inbed; for ihe whole now standing only reaches from the wcat
door to the cross aisle, or choir entrance ; a space contiuning 4
(MM and two side aisles, yet hardly extending to the length of
forty yards.

Hiu is one of the few specimens of liaxoa architecture now re-
nttittiDg in the kingdom. On each side the nave are six circular
4iul loAy arches, consisting of four mouldings, with a pilaster in
Ae middle between each arch. The arches of the upper windows
us ttino round, as well as the groined arches at |hc east end.
ib wiulows are of a later date ibun the building itself, which il
mended vith brick in various places, A dead wall closes the east
f04l Bnd the tAvo nearest arches on each side form the present
disir. A beautiful stone rood-loft, of four pointed arches, with
cluslered columns, ranges over the west door: beneath it is a rich
ifuedcn screen. The roof is of oak, finely carved nith knots
Iff flowcn, &c. The beams are sup[iorted by angeh horizon-
(■1 jand perpendicular. About the church are several grotesque

■ Jr^ west front, though devoid of symmetry, appears tohavebcen
wuderfully enriched with a great divei^ry of historical carving,
intimnixcd «iih GotUc ornaments of foliage, flowers, &c. The

so BEnrORDSiiiRB.

great door* had four piltara on eacli side, with Saxon capitali
supporling five mouldings, the outermost of which is ornameuled
with itigzag work: tbe second has angels and foliage in altcroale
orals: the third, beasts* heads ji^ssant foliage: the fourth, signs of
the zodiac, of which Pisces and Capricorn still remain. There
is also a spread eagle: the fifth, flowers, &c. The capitals have
David playing on the harp, a figure prostrate to him ; a bishop in
poiilificalibus, with mitre and crosier, andabearded maninacap:
two more bearded men holil a scroll perpendicularly, on whose
top is a headless beast, &c. The lesser door has seven mould-
ings, on five pillars, exclusive of the inner, composed of roses,
and laced work, nail-headed ((uatrefoils. Tiie arch between the
two doors is half a zigzag and half a strait moulding; and the in-
terlaced arches within it, rest on capitals charged witii grotesque
figures: one seems to have a number of souls anil a devil. The
flat between the doore is charged with indented roses. Above are
three rows of arches: the first row consists of seven flat arches,
with pedestals for statues; the second, of six small and two large,
open to a gallcrj' leading to the bell tower, with a seventh arch
between the latter, placed over the door, all on treble clustered
pillars. The third row has fine pointed flat arches, with single
pillars. Over the west door, under the arch, are three beautiful
niches; and under tlie west windows of the tower arc four roses
in squares. In the annexed print, tJiis front is represented, and
will be found to corresponil with the above description. The
small turret, or tower, that appears on the right hand comer uf
the building, has fallen down since Mr. Arnold took his sketch.
lliis part presents a curious mixture of the Saxon, and, what arc
commonly termed, Gothic arches.

The tower is attached to the north side of the front, and bos
two rows of niches, now deprived of their statues. Anciently
another tower on the opposite side corresponded with this. The
Cioiiick of Dunslaple records the falling of two towers in tho

year

• The door.way of Milmibury-abbey, in Wiltthire, ii vory lirailit, but
ivlict larger, in better ptciuvaliwi, uid more richly omuncnlcd.

^^V ye&r 1231. lo failing they destroyed the prior's ttol) and part of

^^H the church. The body wa» repaired in 1273, by the parishiunen,

^^H but ( hicfly at tbc cxponce uf one Flenry Chedde.
^^H Within the church are a number of curious monuments; many

^^H of thcra belong lo the CiiF.w family, whose benefactions to this

^^H town have caused their names to be repented with itiverence. In

^^H the middle aisle was formerly a very long slab, tlii; inscription on

^^H which was so ({uaint and barbarous, that it gave rise to the in-

^^H credible report of one woman having had nineteen children at

^^H five births! viz. three several times three children at a birti, and

^^H twice five two other times. Fuller, in liis Worthies of Bedford-

^^^ft shire, gave currency to the error, and the tradition of the place

^^H lias ever since confirmed Jt. The slab was inlaid with the figures

^^H of a man and a woman in brass, both dressed in gowns, with their

^^H hands in tbc attitude of prayer; and at their feet an inscrip-

^^H tion. Beneath the latter, two groups, one of buys, the other of

^^H girb, with the types of the evangelists at thv corners. The in-

^^H ecription was in these words;

^^1 Hie William Mulso sibi quem sociavit Sc Alice,

^^H Marmore sub duro conclusU mora gcncralis,

^^H Ter trci, bis quinoa hxc natos fertur habere

^^H per spotisos binos, Deus his clcmens miserere.

^^H This, literally translated, is as follows : ■' One general fate

^^H has shut up here, under a hard marble, William Mulso, and

^^H Alic« bis wife. She is reported to have had three times three,

^^H and twice five, children, by two husbands." 'Hiis conceited mode

^^H of informing the world that a woman had nineteen children, un-

^^V douhtedlygave rise to the mislakeof their having been produced at

fivt births; but how Fuller, who was a man of considerable learning,

could assert that it was so represented in the epitaph, is indeed

surprising: yet our surprise at his error is somewhat lessened,

^^H when wc reflect on the conduct of Bishop Gibson, who, we are

^^H told by Mr. Gough, repeats the story implicitly. How easily

^^V would the exertion of a little common keisc, have enabled the

^^K bishop to rectify this gross misrepre^ntutiou ! Who for a moment

i2 B'«T>Fbltli%lttlfek.

can believe, that such an uprecedented circuttistance, happening
so lately as the reign of Henry the Sixth, and some years sub-
sequent to the invention of printing, would have been unrecorded
and forgotten, except from the intervention of an obscure epitaph.
If the atory had been Sifacfy it must have rung through every quar-
ts of the country. Who was the second husband of thb fruitful
woman, we are not informed: he was probably of Dunstable,
where. Fuller says, " she lived and died." «

Above the altar is a large and handsome paintit^ of the last
Supper, executed by Thornhill. This, with the plate, and a rich
ipulpit-cloth, was given by two sisters, named Carte and Ashton.

Mr. Willis informed the society of Antiquarians, 1745, that at
the east end of Dunstable church, about two feet undei^ground,
was found a stone coffin; the lid composed of four stones; the
piece at the foot a* separate one ; the head, sides, and bottom, of
bne stone ; under the head an eminence instead of a pillow, in an
hollow or niche corresponding to the head. The skeleton was
entire, except the ribs, which had fallen in; the head inclined to
the left : between the upper bone of the left arm and the back-
bone was a glass urn, fallen down, and the lid off, stained with
deep brown on the inner side of that part which lay over the stone :
about the feet were pieces of leather, very rotten, which by the
liolos appeared to have been sewed together."

In the collections made for a history of Dunstable in 1714, by
Mr. Edward Steele, a remarkable funeral pall is thus described :
*' It is made of the richest crimson and gold brocade imaginable ;
lind so exquisitely and curiously wrought, that it puzzles the great*
est artists of weaving now living to so much as guess at the manner
of its performance. It is six feet four inches long, by two feet
two inches broad ; from whence hangs down a border of purple
velvet thirteen inches deep, whereon is lively and most richly worked
with a needle, St. John the Baptist, between fourteen men and
thirteen women, all kneeling. Under the foremost is written Henry
Tayreyy and Agnes Fayrey^ between the arms of the mercers.
Thus are the sides : at tHe ends is only St. John between a gentle-
inan and his wife. Under them is written John and Mary Fayrey ,

This

BEDFORDBUIRE. 93

This was the gift of the above mentioned Jlenry Fayrty and
Agnes his wife, to a fraternity or brotherhood of this Igwii, dedi-
cated to St, John the Baptist. The said Henry, as npp*ar» frnin .
a moDurnental »tone in the middle aisle of the church, died llie
28tbof December, 15l6; yet, notwithHlandind its ai;e, tlic (lall is
as freali and beatitiful as at first ninkiiig. "The east ]>art of the
chancel (saya tht same gentleman) is raised hy two alcps, aiwl
was formerly the choir of the church, the ancient stalls stitl re- J
maining, whore, under each ical (sihible upon turning Uicm l^
when kneeling to prayci^) is caned some e\travHgunt fancy,
plainly discovering the humour of those times: but I must nut
omit, that, undiT the scat uf the east stall, on tlie south side, k
neatly cut, a woman spinning, with a rock and spindle; and on
tlie ground lice a sneering friar- preacher, whilst his busy and inipii-
■itive hand is searching under her petticoats; a very improper and
scandalous decoration for so sacred a place." However improper,,
or however scnndalous, these kind of ornaments for religious struc-
tures may be now considered, their frequent use iu former ages,
would almost induce us to suppose that they were then regarded
as appropriate embellishments. Catlicdrals, priories, abbeys,
and chapels, have all, more or less, been decorated with grotesque,
ludicrous, and impure representations; and numerous places of
solemn worship might be meulioucd, wherein they may still be found.
The corrupt display of this vitiated taste was not confined to the
interior of buildings; for even tlie external ornaments of many fa-
brics werp intermingled with the images of those subjects, which
the more delicate feelings of modem times have justly denomiuated
obscene, The outside of St. George's Chapel, at Windsor, and (ho
I roof of the cloisters at Lacock Abbey, in Wiltshire, may be given
as instances of tlie various edifices, wherein the prevalence of gross
conceptions is thus manifi:;sted. The cause of this depravily of
lastc we shall endeavour to unfold in a future part of the work.

When Henry issued his proclamation for rqwopling Dunstable,

ho offered an acre of land to all settlers for twelve pence per annum,

Wfith the same [irivil^s to them, and their heirs, as were possessed

by the citizens of London, or any othur town in England. Ha

C4 alsd

$4 BBDrORDSRiBK.

also built a royal mansion in the neighbourhood, which he called
Kingsbury, This residence was presented by King John to the
Priory ; it is now converted into a farm, where the bleating of
sheep, and the cackling of fowls, are the harsh and discordant
substitutes for the soothing melodies of the lute and the harp.

Seventeen years and a half, Henry kept the town as a free bo-
rough in his own hands. The burgesses were free throughout
England, and possessed the privilege of not answering before the
justices itinerant out of the town and liberty. Those judges were
to repair to Dunstable, and there determine all suits, without
foreign assessor, by the oath of twelve of the inhabitants.

When the Monarch founded the Priory, he bestowed upon it

vast privileges. The whole manor of Dunstable, with the lands

pertaining to the town, together with the church, market, schools,

liberties, revenues, &c. were all included in the grant; with

the exception only of his own palace. He also exempted the

monastery from all taxes of whatever kind, from fines, tolls,

customs, secular exactions and worldly services through the

realm. So distinguished was his favour, that even murder,' that

blackest, deepest crime of which man can be guilty, might be

committed by the professed with impunity. Succeeding Princes

confirmed the charter; and many of the inhabitants were tenants

in capite,* and others tenants in fee, to the Prior.

These extraordinary privileges caused many disturbances be-
tween the townsmen and the Abbey; and on some unequal assess-
nients being made in 1229, the people weret so provoked, that,
out of resentment to the church, they withdrew their tithes and
offerings, scattered the Prior's corn, and pounded his horses; and
though, at the Prior's request, the Bishop of Lincoln caused the of-
fenders to be excommunicated in the neighbouring towns and dean-
enes, all would not do : the townsmen declared they would sooner
go to the devil than be taxed ; and had even treated with William
Cantilupe, for forty acres in his field, to build booths on, and

quit

* Holding their lands immediately from him.
f Cronide of Dunstaple.

OltDSllIRE.

iqnit the town. Tliis Jifference was at ksi adju5tpd by John,
Archdeacon of Bedford; the town paying sixty pounds stevling to
the Prior fur the renunciatiun of his right to all toUagc, c\cq>t
the Mistricordia i>i 4d. and tines in canes of violence.

The last prior was Gervase Markham, who, with his canons,
vutMcribed to the King's supremacy in 1531; and, on the disso-
IntioD, had a j>en*ion of sixty pounds a year for life. His reward
was the greater for having taken an active part in the divorce of
Henry the Eighth, and Catharine of Arragon; his convent being
the residence of the commissioners. The nnjiist sentence was
publiclj read in the Virgin's chap»I, within the Priory church, by
Archbishop Cranmer. *

Besides this religious house, there was one of Friar-preachers,
who settled here about 1259. The inhabitants of the Priory, it
eeems, did not like such insinuating interlopers, ta Chaucer
describes this order to have been, who were sure to win thi' af-
fectioBS of all the penitents.

" Ful fwtiely hi
" And plcfcnl v

Ithtcnnf™

The site of their church is known by the name of St. Mary
Over. It lies on the we»t side of the town, near the B^tist
meeting-house.

There are several charitable establishments at Dunstable. The
principal of these are the charity-school at the south end of the
town, founded in pureuantc ot the request of Mr. VVilliarn Chew,
hy his sisters, and coheirs, Jane Cane and Frances Ashton, for
40 boys and 15 girla, who are educated, clothed, and appren-
ticed. Six houses for as many decayed maiden gentlewomen,
founded by Mrs. Blandina Marshc, and endowed by her with an
income of 7'-Jl- per annum. This sum, a few years since, was
augmented with the interest of lOOOI. be<|ueathed by another lady.
These houses arc neat and commodious, with small yards before
them. They were bailt and endowed in the year 17 13. And,
lastly, two alms-houses for the relief and maintenance of poor
widows; six in each building. These were founded by Mrs. Carte
•ad Mrs. Ashton, iho benevolent females a^eady mentioned.

Most

Most of the poor receive a. parish allowance: those to vhoat
necessities ibis support is iaB^et|uatc, retire to the workhouse,
which has been laniieil miuiy yetira. The I'ariucr having their
earnings, and supplying victuals, clotliing, &c. &uch uf them a»
are able to work, are employed in the straw niaiiul&cturc.

The centre of the town wus formerly adorned with one of those
beoutiful crosses, which the affection of Kdward the First indu-
ced kiin lo erect to the memory of his beloved Queen Eleaoar,
on evwy spot where her body rested during it* conveyance to the
Abbey at Westminster. It is described by Camden as being deco-
rated with statues, and tlie arras of England, Caslile, and Pon-
thicu. The enthusiastic zeal displayed in tlie civil w&rs robbed
the towQ of this ornament.

Many justs and tournaineiits have beeji held here in dilTcrcnt
roigns, several of wliich ihe ivspectivc Moiiarchs have- honored
with tlieir presence. In tlie thirtieth year of Henry the Third,
there was a great assemblage of lords, knights, and gentry, at
this anil the neighbouring town of Luton. Tlie avowed purpose
of the meeting was to keep a martial just ami tournament; but
the real intention, it appears from Hollinshod, was to oppose the
exactions of the Pope, whicli at that time were very grievous.
This design was counteracted by command of tlie King, who gave
orders that the tournaiQCiit should not he held,

Several of our ancient chroniclers, particularly Knyghton,
Brompton, and Hemingford, have mentioned a singular appear-
.ancc in the heavens, seen at Dunstable in the year lisg. We
■hall insert a tranalation of the account given by the latter writer )
because, to whatever cause the etfcct may be ascrilted, the minute-
ness of the description and peculiarity of the style must prove
amusing.

« 0/ tic appearance of the Cross in tic i>l.y at Dunstable, 1 1 89-

" A stupendous prodigy, which about this time was seen by
many in England, must not bo passed over in silence. Upon the
higli road which leads towards London there is a street of no
mean fame, named Duocstabell, There, while about noon,

they

Acy were looking up towards lieavcn, they saw in the Iji^igbt of
« serene sky the form of imr Lord's banner, conspicuous by its
milky brightness, and tlie form of a loiin crucitied joined thereto,
«ich as is pfllnCed in the citurch in mptnory uf the Lord's pas-
sion, and for the devotion of the faithful. Then, when this drcad~
inl £gure had appeared a sliort time, and closely attracted the
eyes and hearts of the beholders, the form of the cross was seen
to recede from him who seemed sfiixed thereon, so that an inter-
mediate space of the sky might be observed, and soon aftor, this
«stoni»hing thing disappeared. •Let every one explain as he thinks
ifit this wonderful sign, of which 1 am to bo con^iileri^d as a mere
nporttr, not as an expounder of omens; for what it is the dlvins
pleasure to signify I know not."

The most natural and rational explication of the causes of this
fh^numenon may be discovered by reasoning from analogy,
Whatever happens in one part of the globe, may also, under &
parity of circiimstances, .occur in another. We are informed by
Brydone, and other traveUers, thut the vapours arising from the
Aleditorrancan, assume, in particular slates of the atmosphere, a
variety of forms, singulnr as well as common. Sometimes iLo
sky has the appearance of an armed phalanx of men, drawn up
in martial order to oppose an hostile band who appear to confront
thcmi at other rimes the clouds put on the shape of an immense
city, full of houses, churches, and palaces, which seem to vary
.Iheir ^pearonces at pleasure, til] the all-powerful sun, rising in
'his might, dispels the visionary illusion, and dissolves the iimub-
Mtmlitti pagraut into th'm air. If in Italy, the laws oi nature,
KCting on congregated vnpours, cause them to assume sucli a
Jiunbor of different forms, why should the same kind of appear-
iances in Inland be regarded as miraculous? Similarity of pro*
■ductiun will ever arise from similarity of cause. Nature is every
■where the same, and the Dj>cration of her laws cunsbtent and
uniform.

The inhabitants of this town have, more than once, felt the
direful scourge of religious persecution. The sect called Lollards,
to quell whose opinions the clci^ employed both lire and the

-Ji

SS BEDFORDSHI&K.

gibbet, greatly abounded here in the reign of Henry the FiMi.
Many of them were imprisoned, and some destroyed. One
execution, at Dunstable, rendered singular by the display of the
most horrid cnielty, will ever remain an indelible brand on the
reign of the Seventh Henry, in whose days it was transacted. Dr.
Smith, the infamous Bishop of Lincoln, ordered the unfortunate
William 'Hllsworth to be burnt for denying the Pope's supremacy.
But the infliction of corporeal pain was insufficient to gratify the
malignant and fiend-like feelings of ecclesiastical vengeance.
The greatest possible degree of mental anguish must also be su-
peradded to the agonized sensations produced by the action of^
consuming flames. The infemals in human shape, could only be
satisfied by obliging the fear-struck daughter of their miserable
victim, to set fire to the pile, destined to end the life of the be-
loved author of her being ! Curses pierce not ; but if the tooth
of the never dying worm be employed by eternal justice in the
punishment of guilty deeds, the perpetrators of such an atrocious
act, we may be assured, ^ill have their reward.

The palate of the epicure is well acquainted with the rich fla-
vour and delicacy of the numerous larks which are caught in the
vicinity of this town. Whether the herbage of the downs is
peculiarly favourable to the production and improvement of this
delicious bird, we know not; but certain it is, that the goodness
of a Dunstable lark has become a proverb.

A great quantity of copper coins of Antoninus and Constantiney'
with many small ornaments of bridles and armour, were found 1^
some labourers digging for gravel on a down in this neighbourhood^
in the year 1770.

The parish of Dunstable is supposed to contain about 340 acres.
The land is principally in pasture; though wheat, barley, and
beans, are cultivated in that part which is in open fields. The
rent is about 31. an acre. There are neither commons nor waste
lands. The farms are but small, one only amounting to a hun-
dred acres.*

MaideH

* **SesStat£ of the PooK," &c. by Sir Faederic Eoen, Bart.

'Mm4m Botoer, mentioned by Camden as a circular fortilica-
tion, such as Sirabo described the British towns, is about one
mile and a half \V. N. W. from Dunstable, near the edge of a low

intnge of the Chiltem hills. It consists of a vallum nearly circu-
Ibt, thrown up on a level pliiin. The banks are from eight to
fourteen feet high ; they inclose about nine acres of level ploughed
iBnd, producing good wheat. To the south it has no ditch ; to
the south-west, and wcsl, only a vorj- small one; on the north-
t descent to the meadows. This is supposed by some of
I our antiquaries to have been a British settlement; but Dr. Sal-
I Bon imagines it to have been inclosed by the Saxons, as a place
I for female exercises ; and that It was surrounded with a vallum to
ftjkcep the crowd at a proper distance. Arbury Banks, near Ash-
ft well, in Hertfordshire, is said, by Dr. Stukcly, to be a work of
Biaimilar kind to this of Maiden Bower.* After mentioning two
I other works of the same nature, one on Wilbury Hill, near Ickle-
I ford, the other between Chipping Norton, andStowiu tbeWoulds,
I Htut a long Barrow, called the Mill Bank, near Dunstable, he adds,
"A high prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the fire
I Knollt, from thnt number of barroivs, or Celtic tumuli, which
I Bre round, pretty large, and ditched about, upon the very apex-
I'Of the hill. Close by is a round cavity, as often observed in
^ Wiltshire. This, we are informed,! is called Pascomb Pit, and
■ft a great hollow in the downs." Tradition, that unwearying
joiimatisl of marvellous talcs, reports that a church was intend-
ed to have been creeled on this spot, but that the materials wers
removed invisibly as fast as brought together.
I About

* Thit mound oC eanh is gcncriUy called the CsilU by- ilic peatanoy, among
whom iomc liagulai ulci are luireiil respecting ihc c^uw of iu formalioii.
One of there ii a va^e tlory of a ccruin Queen, who having made a wage!
ifllh [he King, that the could encamp a large army of men wilhin a bull's hHi,
ordtred the bull'i hide id be cut into ttiin;:!, and the grcatui pouible cinle K>
impaued therewith) (hit wii done accotdingly, and the aicampmcut

rn thji ipot.

} Cullectioni for liiE Ktitory, in. of BctifordJiiiiL

so BJ&DFORDSHIItK.

About half a mile westward from Maiden Bower, on the downs
above Tottenhoe, is a strong fortification, towering on a
promontory, that projects into the low lands. It is named
Tottenhoe Castle, and overlooks the village of Stanbridge. U
consists of a keep and circular area, with a square, and a predpice
on the west side. The mount is high, and is encompassed by twa
ditches, one circular, the other square; it takes up the whole
breadth of the ridge. The ground round about has been muck
broken by digging: in one place there appears to have been a
well. Contiguous to this is another camp, of the figure of a
parallelogram, the shortest sides running across the ridge, tki
ethers, lengthway along the ridge of the hill.

LUTON

Is pleasantly situated among some hills on the river Lea, whifA
'rises in its neighbourhood at Lea Grpve. It is a long irregular
town, shaped something like the Roman Y, the angles branching
off from the market-house. The houses are in general but indif-'
ferently built ; and the only structure deserving attention is tba
church, which is dedicated to St. Mary.

This fabric consists of a choir, a nave, with two aisles, aap*
ported by ten pointed arches, two transepts, and a handsome em^
battled tower on the west chequered with flint and freestone : at
the comers are hexangular turrets, similar to that at DuQftaUe.
The arch of the west door is ornamented with mouldingi of
various flowers, &c. . Within the church is a singular piece of an-
cient architecture; this is an hexagonal font, or baptisterium,
composed of stone, and inclosed in a lofty wooden frame of Gothic
arches, terminated with elegant tabernacle work. The consecra-
ted water, during the prevalence of the Roman ceremonies, was
kept in a large bason at the top, whence it was let down by tdba
priest, through a pipe, into the font. On the inside of the roe^
a vine is represented, guarded by a lamb from the assaults of a
dragon. The vine is an emblem of the church, which is hereal-
legorically defended by baptism from the attempts of the devil.

^L'>»i

BEnFonDSIIlRE. 31

iTthe north s\Ae of the clioir is a veatry-room used as a school ;
d an ele^nt chapel, founded by John, Lord Woiilock, as ap-
sare by the following lines from a manuscript in the British Mu*

Jesu Christ, most of rayght,

Have mercy on .lohn Ic Wenlock, knight,

And of his wyffe Elixalwth,

Woh out of this world is passed by death ;

Woh founded this chapel here.

Heipe ihcm with y' harty praer;

That they may come to that place

Where ever b joy and solace.

; arc some very ancient monwments in this cliurrli ; yet, as
a repetition of the inseribud memorials of long-forgot I en names,
neither prbve interesting nor useful to the generality of rea-
t, we bhall pass tbem over without notice. On the east win-
t is a rep resci nation of St. George and the Dragon: on the
Ut of ^ hero is a red cross : beneath him are five men In bins
irred gowns, and a wojnan praying.

The singular circumstances attending the life and death of the
above LonI Wenlock, are too remarkable to be passed over in si-
ience. He flourished in the reign of Henry the SiNth, was knighted,
made constable of Hamburg cik'^tle, and chamberlain to the Queen.
Having acciuired great wealth, he furnished hi« master with tha
loan of 10331. 6s. 8d, for which he received an assignment of the
'fif^nth, and ii'diIi, granled by parliament in the year H56, and
was soon after rewarded with the order of the Garter, He valiant-
ly lapported the royal cause at the first battle of St. Alban's,
wherein he was dreadfully wounded; yet, with the fickleness of
the times, he joined the duke of York in the year 1459, and was
In consequence attainted by the Lancastrian parliament. In Tow-
ton field he fought bravely; and soon afterwards was recompensed,
for his former loss, with several important offices; was created a
baton, employed in several embassies, and advanced to the great
' |K)sl of Lieutenant of Calais. Notwithstanding all these fuvoi

S2 BEDFORUSniRE.

he Again revollod, and cngagf^d in the schemes a( the Earl of
Warwick, to restore the dei>oscJ Henry. Having raised forces,
he joined Margaret of Anjou before the battle of Tewkesbury.
lie was appointed by the general, John, Earl of Somerset, to
command what was called the middle ward of ihe army. When
Somerset, who led the van, found himself unsupported in the
fierce attack he had made upon the enemy, he returned enraged
to discover the cause. He found Lord Weitlock, with hi; troops,
standing in the market-place. Whether a yianic had seized, or
whether, through a. mutability of mind, he was meditating a new
revolt, docs not appear; but the Earl, unable to curb his fury,
rode up, and with one blow of his battle-axe claved the head of
the supposed traitor.

The Wenlock arms arc strewed over the walls in various parts
of Lulon church, a circumstance rendering it probable that he
contributed towards the expence of repairing it, when the chapel
above-mentioned was erected,

Part of this town was given by King Opfa to the monks of St.
Alban's; but the patronage of the church was not appendant to
the gift. The advowson was purchased of Gilbert de Clare, Earl
of Gloucester, for eighty marks, by Robert, the eighteenth ab-
bot of St. Albau's; who gave it to his monastery a short time be-
fore his dcatli. By a charter of confirmation, granted by King-
John in the first year of his reign, its revenues were appropriated
to the purchase of provisions for the use of the abbey guests.

In the rtign of Edward the Fourth, a stately mansion was be-
gun at Luton, by Lord Wenlock. Only the portico was finished,
whicli still remains complete in the wood at Luton Hoo: it is a
very beautiful specimen of that kind of architecture, styled the
[torid Gothic

" The Lord Wennelock," says Leland, " left an heire general,
that was maricd to a kinnesman of Thomas Scolte, otherwise
caullid Rotheram, Bishop of York. He had with her yn manage
Luton, in Bedfordshire, and three hunderith markcs of landes
thcreaboute, and a faire place withiji the paroche of Luton caul-
yd SoMZHYS, the which house was sumptuously bcjjon by the

Lord

BEDFOKDSHiai>. 33

tlAVwinelok, bul not linisched.V The gate'.vay, ajwl ptirt of a
' toner, are yet to be tcvn. The tower lias been very liigh, and
ol' great strength. Prior to the invention of gunpowder, it might
have been re^iirdrd as impregnable. In the wall wns a hole or
ruvity, called a whbporiiig-pipe, which conveyed the lowest sound
from the bottom to tbc top: this vas entire, before Sir John Na~
pier b^an to pull down the ttiwcfi about the Cummcnceracnt of
the last century.

Mr. JoiiK I'ouFRET, the poet, was born at Luton, and edu-
cated at Cambridge. On entering into orders, lie obtaiiied the
living of Maiden, in lliis county, iind inij;ht havi- risen in the
church, but front a inaliciuus interpretation of some passage in
his poem of the CAoice, from nhich it was interred, ibat he con>
tidered happiness as mora likely to be obtained in the company of
■. nistress than of a wife.

" This repruath," says Dr. Jolimon, " nas easily obliterated;
for it had happened to Pomftct, as M almost all other men who
plan schemes of life ; he bad departed fi-uin his purpose, and was
then married." The malice of hi* efleniii-swa*. however, attended
with a fatal con'^cqucnce : the delay constrained his attendance
iu London, where be <;auE!ht thesmall-pnx, and died in 1703, in
the thirty-sixth year of his u<ie.

LUTON HOC,

The seat of the Marquis of Bute, stands on an elevated situation
at the edge of the Bedfordshire downs, about two miles from
Luton, in the midst of a well- wooded-park.

The houDe was in a great measure rebuilt by its late noble
owner, the lather uf the present Marquis, who emploj'cd the
celebrated Adams to reconcile the incongruities of its architec-
ttirc, and rectify the dissonance of the materials and arrange-
ments, tlwt had been occasioned from the mansion having Itecn
erected at various limes, and by diflcrent persons. This the
artist effi'cled by building n kind of architectural facade on the
mass, and forming a comfortable and convenient ^uile of roonv-

Vol. 1. D The

TTie Ubraryi s&id to be only inferior to Bleuhnni, is 1+6 feet in
length, divided into three rooms. The books are abundantly
numcrou>i, scarce, and veW arranged.

In the old cliapcl is preserved an extremely fine Gothic wain-
scot, wonderfully enriclietl with caning, inlermin^led with Latin
sentences of Scripture, in ancient characters. It was first put up
at Tyttenhanger, in Hertfordshire, bySir'iTionias Pope, the foun-
der of Trinity College, Oxon ; and was removed to Luton in per-
fect preservation by the family of Napier, to whom this estate
formerly belonged. The floor is paved with black and white

The grounds, though not highly &voured by nature, have been
considerably improved by art. The river Lea, which meanders
through the park, has been formed into a noble lake at the bot-
tom of i!ic eminence on which the house is seated. The width of
this expanse of water, (nearly a qtiarter of a mile,) its islands, and
the numerous trees and plantations with which it is diversilied,
present an agreeable prospect. From a path leading thn:)ush a
fine valley, there is a pleasing view of a plain Tuscan pillar,
whose j;racffu] eficct entirely resnlLs from its simplicity and har-
mony of proportion. On the pedestal is this inscription ;

In Memory of
MR. FRANCIS NAPIER.

Upon the summit of the pillar is an urn, which is peculiarly
beautiful. The prospect from this spot is interesting to the lover
of the picturesque; where the breaks through the woods, the hol-
low dales, and groups of fine beeches, present an agreeable variety
to the landscape-painter. The beech trees arc more valuable
here, as the (general soil of the county is unfavourable to their

groi

,th.

RIERGATE, MARKYATE, or MARKET STREET.

This town in generally regarded as being in Bedfordshire, tho',
a fact, it IS situated both in this and the adjoioing shire of Uert-

sEDtoanauiRE. 35

ford. The counties in this part intLTiect each olher in a sin^lar
mnnner;the boundaries being so irregular thai Uic three humlcts,
which compose the town, appear to be seated near the extreme
point of a neck ofland, (if the term may l»e allowed us,) branch-
ing out from that division of the county which is crossed by
the Icenin^ Way.

This place consists of one principal street, about three quarter
of a mile in length. The houses are nidely built, and niDstly-
inhabited by inn-keepers, shop-keepers, and common tradesmcik
whose chief dependence for support is, as we have already
ttoned, on the pa.'.sago o( travellers. Tlic ine(]ualiCy of ihe poor**
rates in neighbouring parishes is here remarkably apparent,
the hainlet of Humbershoe (which is on one side of the sti
Ihcy are full three times us n)uch as in the twu hgmli
opposite side. Tlie Tcoaon assigned is, that Humbersht
little Iftnd. and a number of ruinous houses.

In a wood near this town was a nunnery of the licnedictine
order, dedicated to tlielloly Trinity. It was built and endowed by
Geoffrey. Abbot of Si. Albim's, on some lands tliat were given by
the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, London, in the year 1145. In
Uugdale's Moiiailkon is the following story relttti\c to its founda-
tion. " When Geoffrey was Abbot of Saint Alban's, one Roger,
a monk of that ]ilace, led a moi^t holy eremitical life, near the
Tillage called Markate, in the way to Duustable. Tliu latier four

years of his life, he had, in a rooi
Chnatina, whom he inslrucled i
fitmous for miracles, which m<
a residence fur her, and other ii
the said building hajipening tu
wme," What these niinicles w

I separatedfrom his own, the i ii^n
1 such a manner that she bccanis
vcd the smd ahhot to build there
ma that had resorted to her; and
be burnt, he again rebuilt the
re, ne are not informed; neiihcr

do we know any thing of the holy monk's method of instruction.
It is much to be lamented that it was not committed to writing
for the benefit of posterity. The rcvoiiucs ut the dissolution were
rated at 1141. I()s. Id. per annum.

LEIGIITON

36 BEDF0EDSHIR2.

LEIGHTON BEAUDESERT,

Or, ii^ it is sometimes corruptly written, Leighton Buzzardf
is a considerable market-town, and in a very fair way for improve-
ment; the f^rand junction canal passing it within a furlong, on
the west side, where the river Ouzel separates the counties of
Bedford and Bucks. The commodities sold in the market are
cattle, corn, grocery, bone-lace, platted straw, &c. The
channel of the canal is "of sufficient width and depth to carry
craft of eighty tons burden.

The number of houses in this town is 333 ; the inhabitants, oa
a fair average, five to a house; this gives about I67O for the po-
pulation. There is a congregation of Baptists, and another of
Quakers, here : among the latter, but very few poor can be found.
lliis circumstance seems to arise from some excellent rules, by
which the sect is regulated. If a member becomes idle, drunken,
or othen^'ise depraved, he is immediately expelled the society.
The poor are partly maintained at home, and partly in tne
workhouse, which is in a very excellent situation. Those who
are in the house, are employed in lace-making. In this town
there is an alms-house for eight poor women, who have each an
apartment, clothes, fuel, and 2s. 6d. a week: and donations to
the amount of about 221. annually are distributed in bread
to the indigent parishioners.

The principal antiquity of Leighton Beaudesert is a handsome
pentangular Cross, supposed to have been erected nearly 700
. years ago, but by whom, or for what purpose, we have not been
able to discover. From the court-roll of the town, it appears,
that some time about the year l650, it was presented at the court''
leety as being in such a ruinous state, that it greatly endangered
the lives of those persons who were passing near it. On this oc--
casion it was ordered to be repaired, and a tax of 4d. levied on
every inhabitant to defray the charf^es.

The height of the cross is twenty-seven feet two inches, from
the top of the stone work to the basement, which is seven feet
four inches from the ground on the lowest side, and consists of

five

RcifonUhhr.

111 ■■■ *

BKDFORBSIURF,. :i7

£vB row* of steps rising from the earth. The ccnlic jiillHr,
which supports the arch, is eight feci two inches high; and one
foot one inch and a quarter wide, on the >ii[le IVuuting the largest
angle. The upper story is disposed into live niches, and adurncfi
with pinnacles at the corners; one of these is destroyed. Within
CRCh niche was a statue. The first apparently is a bishop ;•
another seems like the Virgin and Jesus; a third appears to be
Saint John the Evangelist; the othen arc so much mutilated,
that even conjecture could not be warranted in assigning them
B name.'The whole height, from the lowest base to the top of the
vane, is thirty-eight feet. This cross is built of stone,
situnted in an open anja, near the market-house. The church
is a lai^e antique structure, and by the various grotesque
iDgs which arc scattered about it, is suppoaed to have been built i
at the same period as the cross; and i» constructed with thesi
sort of stone. At the intersection rises a square tower, sur-
mounted with a spire ; the whole being 193 feet in height.

This township consists of five hamlets; the greatest part of the
luid is open licld. About 300 acres of common belong to tho
poash, on wUich the poor obtain turf, &c.

About hair a mile from this place arc the remains of a Roman
camp: from ibis, and other circumstancen, Leighton Beaudcsert
is supposed to be the Saxon I^zeaiibiirgh, taken with several
more towns from the Britons by Cuthwolf.

WOBURN.

Tills town is situated on the western side of the county, bor-
dering on Duckingharashire. lis importance is derived from tlie
elegant mansion in its vicinity, belon^ng to the Duke of Bedford,
more than from any remarkable events cotmectod with its anti-
quity or history. On the Ipth of June, 1734, great part of it
wa« destroyed by fire : but this unfortunate circumstance, though
D 3 distressing

* Thii figure i> [cprcunled m the annexed print; ind alfo Ihra
groidque bcadi, which arc atlached to the comics. Thoie arc fifteen of ihcfn
headi luiroimdlag the building, three over every arcb.

S8 BEDFORDSHIRE.

distressing to individuals, proved beneficial to the town; as many
houses were soon afterwards rebuilt in a more convenient and
handsome manner, with the addition of some good inns, and a
market-house. The whole expence of the now buildings was de-
frayed by the benevolent nobleman who then enjoyed the estates
and revenues which the Eighth Henry had bestowed on the fa-
mily of Russel. The market-house vas finished in the year
1737; but it has been materially altered and improved by the
present Duke of Bedford. It consists of two floors : the lower
one is fitted up for butchers' shambles ; over which there is a large
room, intended for the corn-market. The number of houses
(mostly brick) is 263. The population may be computed at 1500.

The church was erected by Robert Hobbs,* the last abbot of
"Woburn. It then belonged to the abbey, and is still of exempt ju-
risdiction, being in the exclusive possession of the Duke of Bed-
ford. This structure furnishes a whimsical instance of capricious
taste; the body being completely detached from the tower, which
stands at about six yards distance. The tower is a small square
building, with large buttresses at the comers, and four pinnacles.
The top is embrasured : the dial is about nine feet, only, from
the ground. The church consists of three aisles, and a chancel ;
the latter was embellished in a handsome manner by the late
Duke of Bedford. On the north side of this building is a curious
marble monument for Sir Francis Stanton and family. It con-
sists of two compartments, comprising twelve figures kneeling in
devotional attitudes. The pulpit, probably coeval with the ab-
bey, is particularly deser\ing of notice, being richly ornamented
M'ith car\ing in the florid Gothic style. The church is under-
going a thorough repair, and will, when completed, be a neat,
convenient, and handsome place.

The munificence of the Russels has been of singular benefit to
this town, where many monuments of their liberality are existing.

Francis,

• This abbot was executed for contumacy in the reign of Henry the Eighth.
He was hung on an oak tree in the park near the abbey. The tree still remains,
and is preserved from decay by a composition which is applied to every affected
part; and protected from external injury by a surrounding fence.

Fnuicis, the first earl of tlmt iianic, founded and endowed a free-
school: anil a. charity-scliool, for ao bojs and 15girU, was after-
wards erecteJ by some other noble personsigc of the same family.
These iiutitutioiu are now consulidated. Hero are likewiM^ twelve
alms-huuses fur as many pogr families, buill by John, ^ late

;t of iiarliiimunt passed
[louses, mt^^gfu, lenc-
ilccs for tile benefit of
of about 2-tl.. were gi-
ll his heirs; on cunili-

Uuke of Bedford, in consequence of :
in the year 176-2. By this act, lift
mcuts, &c. which had been vested ii
the poor, and produced an annual in
vcn to the duke for the sole use of hii
lion that he, or they, should erect, and keep in repair, twelve
houses, for the habitation of ilio saino number of indigent fami-
lies; to whom, abo, the sum of 301. annually is to be distributed
in half yearly payments. Birc/imure^ House, and the surrounding
lands, were made responsible for the duecxccutiou of this cuntraci.

The chief business of the poor is siraw-liat and lace making:
but should these employments at any lime fail, the industrious
have a resource at the abbey, where every one, who makes ap-
plication, is provided with work of some kind or other. Tliis is
Irut charitij \ and does more towards meliorating the condition of
the people, by keeping them in habits of regularity and order,
than could ever be eflected by indiscriminaiing alms-giving.

The FuLER Earth Pit's, (or rather pit, for there is only one
»t present,) in the vicinity of Wobum, are, according to the inva-
riable assertions of preceding topographers, situated in Bcdtbrd-
shirc: but this is a mistake; the pits are certainly in iluf^/igAani-
sMirc, in the parish of Wavendun, or Wandun, as it is generally
called. Tlicy are two miles nortl) of Wobum, and about one fur-
long on the western side of the Northampton road, which, in this
part, forms (he boundary between the two counties for upwards
of a mile. The more ancient pit, it is true, is in the county of
Bedford, in the parish of Aspley, which adjoins to that of
Wandon : but this has been disused for upwards of a century. It
has lai^e trees growing in it; and is become a secure and comfort-
able residence for the cunning fox, whose sagacity has taught
hitn, that he may live here unniok'stcd, and free from danger.

I>* As

40 BEnKnuDSHiRF,.

As the pil so immediately borders on lliis co«nty; and as the
curious reader, jiidping from the prat'tist of foviiipr writers, will
undoubtedly refer to llie ncigbbourhood of Woburn, whendesirous
of acquiring information on tliis aubjeet; wo trust that we shall not
be clitr^d with any impropriety of arrangement, if the particulars
we have been enabled to obtain concerning the invnliiable subt^tance
under c&iwideration are inserted in ihi.s place. The surface of
the earth may be divided with artificial lirait-s; but (he interior
strain, in this instance, is unquestionably continued into both
counties.

British cloth is chiefly indebted to the cleansing (qualities of this
celebrated earth, for its great superiority oicr that manufactured
hy other nations. In no other countrj- is it foiuid so free from
foreign admixture; for this reason, as well as its importance in
iho woollen trade, several severe laws have been made, at dif-
ferent periods, since the reign of Charles the Second, to prevent
its exportation. Nor are these acts of the liritish legislature
without precedent. History informs lis, that the fulling business
was an object of Roman attention, and that laws were expressly
made by that nation to regulate the employment.

This eurlh is truly a maiil, commonly of a greyish ash-co-
loured brunn; yet it greatly varies, and is found of different
shades, from the lery jiale, to the dushy, or almost black ; but
always with a tinge of the yellowish green. The pit at Wavcndon
consists of two tunnels; one with a ladder for the convenience of
Uic labourers; the other to raiie the earth up. Tiie descent is
very disagreeable, and the inside of the pit very damp. The
wood-work on the top and sides of the excavated angles is con-
tinually wet, and almost covered with liulrlvx Lachr^mans, (Drj'-
rot Boletus.) The strata are disposed in the following order.

From the sur&cc to the depth of six or seven frei are several
layers of sand, ull of a reddish colour, but of ditTercnt lints. Be-
neath is a thin stratum of sand -stone, and under this the fuller's
earth. The upper stratum is about a foot thick; but being gene-
rally impure, or mixed with sand, it is thrown aside; and the
rest is taken up for use. The earth is disposed in layers (com-
monly

BFORDSIMI

;ecn inches botwei'ii one horizontal Sssutp and
anollicr) continued to ihc depth of cijiht or ten feet. QetwecR
c centrical layers is & thin slratum of matter, of Jess thnn an
^ inch, ivhich in taste, colour, and extemiil Hp|>earBncF, heart a
[ striking rc>«mblance to Terra Japonica. Beneath the whole is
[ m bed uf rougli white free-^tonc, about two feet thick: this is sel-
dom dug llircmgh; when it is, more strata of sftnd are discovered.
\ TTie dcplh of the pit varies, it being from twenty to thiily feet
below the ^urfiiec.

Though fuller's earth is of the most material ser^'ice in cloan-
■il^ cloth, and imbibing the tar, grease, tallow, &c. which, from
the operation of many ctiuses, is often mixed with the wool, yet
the present price ia scarcely sufficient to defray the expences of
; being tmly ten shillings a ton, and the quantity sold
more than thirty tons annually. The iabourcrs
are occaiioualli/ employed, to the number of five, six, or seten,
in proportion as the earth is wanted. The pit belongs to the Duko
of Bedford: and, as we understand, by a recent piirclia--e. Its
situation is nearly opposite to that in the parish of As]i!ey, which
is also on the duke's estate. Abont twenty years since liiere was
a pit in use on the estate of Colonel IMoore : but this has been
levelled, and the field is now in j)a5turai;e. Thi' earlli lay about
four feet from the surface.

The few authors who have written on the tojKigraphy of tliit
county, arc uniinimous in ascribing a petrifying quaUly to a
small spring said to be in the parish just mentioned ; and not only
the water, but the surrounding earth also, is reported to jiurtake
of the same property. Camdeti informs us, that those who bo-
' longed to the monastery, showed " a wooden ladder, which, af-
ter lying some time in the earth, was dug up all stone," The ri-
sible absurdity of this sentence can only be exceeded by the folly
of Michael Urayton, poet-laureat to James the First, who iiisertcd

^H the foUowi

; lin'

1 this subject in his Puly-Olbion,

which OD heibank doth hoiil ihit ciith alooe,
cd of chii iile, convcnuh waad !□ ilone.
That little AiFLET'teanh we anciently Initilr,
'VoDgit tuadiy other things, i umJtr of eur iile.

42 BEDFORDSHIRE.

This wonder of the poet, like many more extraordinary cir-
cumstances, hath had its nine days of admiration payed by the
^ping multitude. The story has now gn>wn into general discre-
dit; and we arc informed, from the most unquestionable authoritif^
that there is no such >pring in the parish ! yet we have heard of
some bits of the pi'triticd wood, said to have been obtained kere^
which appeared handsome when ))ohshed; and also, that a pair
of buttons has been made of it. But we have said enough on a
baseless subject ; and, as the stream is wanting, whose qualities
could alone give the tale credibility, shall dismiss it with the
common motto, Ex mhilo^ nihil fit. About one mile cast of the
town is

WOBURN ABBEY,

The seat of the Duke of Bedford. This extensive and magni-
ficent pile of building is situated in the midst of a large
park. Its effect is imposing and dignified; and the mind readily
acknowledges that it is truly worthy of boing a ducal residence.

The ground-plan of this elegant mansion forms a square of
more than COO fei^t, containing a ([uadrangular court in tho
inside. It was erected on the site of tlie old abbey, by John,
the fourth Duke of the Russel family. The original building was
founded in the year 114.5, by Hugh do Bolebeck, a nobleman
who had large possessi<^ns in the vicinity. It was intended for
monks of the Cistercian order, a sect of religionists that sent many
swarms into this country about the middle of the twelfth centur}'.
On the suppression of the religious house*;, its revenues, accord-
ing to Dugdale, amounted to 3.911. 8s. '2d. In the fii-st year of
Edward the Sixth, it was granted, with many other ecclesiastical
estates, to .lohn,* afterwards Lord Russel, a gentleman who was
honored with several employments by Henry the Ijghth. In his
family the possession has ever since reniainetl. Tho

• " No family," Mr. Pennant observer, " profited so much by the plunder of

the church as that of Bedford. To the grant of Wobuni, in 1547, it owes

much of its property in thi» county, and in Buckinghamshire. To that of the

lich abhcy of Tavistock, vast fortune and interest in Devonshire: and to render

them more exicasive, that of Duukcswell was added. The donation of

Tfaomey

The new building has experienced many considerable altera-
tions t and improvements, particularly during the time it has beett
in the possession of the present noble owner. Mr. Holland, th«
architect of Dniry-lane Theatre, has displayed much taste and
ability in the designs for the additional buildings here, which have
been executed under his direction. The west front is built of the
Ionic order, with a rusticated basement. The principal floor, or
suite of rooms, on this side, consists of a saloon, state bed-room,
drawing and dining rooms : the south contains the library, break*
fest, etruscan, and duke's rooms; the east, the vestibule, ser-
vants' offices, &c, and the north, the French bed-rooms, and va-
rious other chambers. Most of the apartments are embellish&d
with fine paintings; some of these we shall describe, occasionally
enlivening our descriptions with historical anecdote.

As the Portraits form a very prominent feature in this
collection, we shall particularize a few of them, without attending
to the rooms in which they are situated.

QuEEir

Thomey abbey gave Lord Russel an amazing tract of fens in Cambridgeshire,
together -with a great revenue. Melchbum abbey increased his property in
Bedfordshire. The priory of Castle Hymel gave him footing in Northamptonshire;
and he came in for parcels of the appurtenances of Saint Alban's, and Mount
Grace, in Yorkshire. Not to mention the houfc of the Friars Preachers in
Exeter, with the revenues belonging to the foundation : and, finally, the estate
about Covent-Garden^ with a field adjoining, called the Seven -acres, pn which
Long-acre is built."

f When part of the abbey was taken down in 1744, a corpse was discovered,
the flesh of which was so sound as to bear cutting with a knife, though it must
have been interred at lead 200 yean. Soon afterwards, on pulling down one of
the walls of the abbey church, a stone cofiin was found, which consisted of
feveral loose stones set in the ground ; and in sinking a cellar, several more stone
coffins were discovered, some of them very large, being six feet eight inchea
long in the inside ; they had all a place shaped for a head, and most of them
two or three holes at the bottom. Near them were two pots or urns, which
probably contained the bowels of some of those who had been buried there.
On a scull belonging to some bones, which lay in a stiff blue clay, was some
black cloth, which might have been a monk's cowl. Pieccsof tboes werealao
taken up, &c. Brays Twr,

44 BEDFORDSHIRE.

Queen Elizabeth. This is a very singular picture. The
Maiden Queen is represented with a fan of feathers in her left
hand, and a ring on her thumb. The canvass is so completely
covered with the gaudy and cumbrous ornaments of her dress,
that the painter would have found it extremely difficult to have
introduced a new object, unless he had adorned her cheek with
sticking plaster. Her hair is of a sandy colour; her complexion
rather fair. " A pale Roman nose," says Horace Walpole, " a head
of hair loaded with crowns, and powdered with diamonds, a vast
ruff, a vaster fardingale, and a bushel of pearls, are the features
by which every body knows at once the pictures of Queen
Elizabeth." This description is truly applicable to the present
piece.

Lady Jane Seymour. Pleasing, and well painted. She
is portrayed in a velvet drapery, with a rich gold net-work cover-
ing the whole dress.

Mar}', Queen of England; by Antonio More. Sandnirt
observes, that Mary was very handsome. This is a good painted
face, but hard favoured, and rather stern. If her features were
ever beautiful, the cruelty of her heart and actions must have
made lamentable ravages. It is painted on pannel, and dated
1556.

KiLLiGREW. Commonly called Charles the Second's Jester.

Lord William Russel. This memorable victim to a lawless
court, fell a martyr to the gallant design of preserving the con-
stitution and liberties of his country, from the attempts of an
insidious and arbitrary faction. When his chief enemy, James
the Second, heard of the landing of the Prince of Orange, his
pusillanimous weakness induced him to request the advice of the
Earl of Bedford, Lord Russel's father: the Earl answered with
this melancholy but piercing reproach ; " I had a son, Sir, who
could have advised your Majesty." If the Monarch had possess-
ed sensibility, his heart must have shrunk into nothingness. Ho
was beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, July 31, l683.

Nicholas Bacon^ father of the Lord Chancellor Baconi
iEtat. 52.

BEDFonDsniRB. 45

' Edward Clinton, liarl of Lincoln; by Cornelius Ketel.
[Ilia U H half leogtli portrait. The earl is drawn silting, in a

I short rufl" and a bonnol. This carl was, in all probability, a very

I prudcnr man; for, besides bcinj;! Lord High Admiral for thirty
a fonr most iliflicult reigns, he was entrusted with various

I martial and cerpmonions commissions, for most of which he was
amply rcwanied, without having performed any action of distin-

[ ^sbed imporluncc. lie f«cnis to have secured himself both
Avm enemies and reproach, and to have been content with
acquiring fortune by his services, ratlier than to risk success by
over-rating bu abilities. The quintessence of his wisdom appears
to have been couched In the maxim of being an osier rather than
an oalt. The whimsical artist who produced this picture, not
content with the fame he had gained through regular practice*
fnrnied a design of obtaining additional celebrity, by introducing

I • method of painting entirely new. With this intent, he laid

) Rside his brushe?, and began to paint with hhfingn-s only. The
^(!i-d ; ntid the connoisseure of the day prelendcil that
the pieces thus fanliLSiically executed, possessed gruat beauty, and

I purity of colouring. As his success increased, so did his folly;
s fingers appeared tn be tools of too easy management, and he

I Bndertook to pnint with his toes !

Lady Elixabeth Fitzgerald, third wife of the above
c«ri. This picture of s lady, whose beauty gave birth and cur-
rcncy to the productions of so many eminent uits, her cotetnpo-
nuies, atlords a strong proof of the power of fancy, in heighten-
ing the effecl-i of feminine gracefulness. She is more known by
the title of The Fair Gcraldine,

Edward CoLRTENsr, the last Earl of Devonshire; by Sir
Antonio More. This nobleman was imprisoned by the jealous
Henry, for his contiguity tu the throne, from the age of ten to
twenty-eight. The comeliness of his person attracted the atten-

I lion of Queen Maiy, who gave him his liberty, and wooed him
to share the kingdom with her ; yet he refused, through preference
to her sister Elizabeth. For this partiality, and the charge of
being accomplices with the Carews, who had headed an in>urrec-
tiiia in Devonahire, both he and t&e Princess were committed to

Lha

the Tewer. Tbcy were soon a/lcrwards released at the intLT
of Kiiig Philip; when the carl iiruiJeiitiy quittcU the ktDgilum,
and went to Padua, where he died, at the age of thirty, supposed
to have been poisoned. He is represented as a handsome man,
with short brown hair, and yellow beard. His dress is a dark
jacket, with while sleeves ; and breeches. Behind him is a ruined
tuwur; heneatb is this inscription:

Fourteen long years, in strict captivity,
' Tyrant condemned, I passed my early bloom,

''■ Till pity bade the generous daughter see

' A guiltless captive, and reverse my doom.

PuiLip and M^RV. "Whcniwosuch sanguinary hands were
joined, it is lucky for mankind that no issue was the consequence.
The intrepidity of the Tudors, united with the unprincipled
policy of Charles the Fifth, and Phihp, might have depopulated
Europe, sJid formed as desolate a waste of empire as that of the
Ottumaiui." Tills is a very curious picture.

Sir William Russbl, Knight of the Bath, when young; by
Priwitaer. This is supposed to be the only picture in England of
this artist's. It is painted with great brightness and freedom, and
displays some very neat penciling. It is dated lti27. Sir
William was bther of the excellent Lord Russe) ; and, after the
Itevolution in 16&B, was created Duke of Bedford, by King
-Wilhani.

Lady AsNE Caer, wife of the preceding peer. This lady
was the dau^ter of that in&muus pair, Richard Carr, Earl of
Somerset, and the profligate Frances Howard, Countess of Essex.'
Lady Anne was married in 163?, and proved herself worthy of
the great alliance she had formed. Tliis virtuous female, it is
related, was ignorant of her mother's lascivious character, till
she read it in a pamphlet which she accidentally found in a win-
dow. Struck with the damning proofs of her parents' guitt, and

■ A padkultr Jctail of ihc ihameful coniJuLl oF ihli abandoned u,-amaii,
miy It urn in Arthui Wilion'i Life and Reign o( KLn^ J»ma the FLrft. The
minner at her deilh ii exlnaidiiury, but du wcount U too bonible H> b(
cxinctcd.

BBDF0RD3HIRB. 47

; by tht- suililenness of tlie communication, she fell to

> ground in a Hi, anil was iliscovcred lying senseless with the

)ook bet'ure her. The tragic death of her beloved son is supposed

) liave l>een instrumental in shortening her days. Slie survived

n but a year,

FuANcia RussEL, fonrth Earl of Bedford. This nobleman
is the priiKipal promoter of the draining of the fens, since cal-
L led the Bedford Level. 1'he death of this wise and temperate
I the yeur Ib+l, is thought, by Lord Clarendon, to have
P,li6eQ of great detriment to the King'st aflkirs ; as the carl was |ws-
ft^Bsed both uf suflicient influence and inclination to have prcvent-
■.jkI much of the tiolence that ensued.

Sir PtiiMpSvDNEY, in ihe 22d year of h is age. He boson

L {( quilled ruff, and white slaiihed jacket. " This gentleman's

■ of Arcadia," says Mr, I'eiuiant, " is not relished at present.

ft may be tedious; but the morality, 1 fear, renders it disgusting

to our age. It is too replete with innocence to become a favourite."

George Dicby, Earl of Bristol, and William Russel,

I,C>fterwards duke,) mentioned abo\e. The characters of thesb
^rsonages, whose portraits are hero represented in one picture,
Were exceedingly dissimilar. Lord Bedford was honest, sincere,
«ad moderate; and so far from licing a bigot to party, that he of-
Ben Quctuated, yet still with a view to preserve the balance of the
, constitution, and without even being suspected of acting from self-
JAterest or ambition. Lord nristoj, with brighter parts, was rasli.
ffiiterprising, full of art, and by no means steady to the principles
of honour, nor firm to those of religion. Both distinguished
themse'lves liy pci'sonal bravery ; but Bristol's restless ambition
aud subtlety only sullied his reputation. Bedford's integrity and
temper carried him to the grave with honour at the age of eighty-
is said, these two personages were the archetypes for
F|lie characters of Caslalio and Polydorc, in Otway's play of the
T Orphan.

L*D« Cook, wife of Sir Anthony Cook, of Guidea-tUll. in
! Essex, the tutor of Edward the Sixth. She was the mother of
L tiie fuBi toBrncd females; Lady Burleigh, Lady Bacon, Lady
I Russel, and Mrs. Killigrew, Akne

Ammb or Dekmahk, wife to James the First. Awomanwho
had no crpilil with her husband, nor appears to have deserved
any. Tho frivoiily of her miiid was gratified with the empty ad-
mimtion which ihe |)opulace are eier ready to bestow on pomp
anil raagnitici'me, imd hir ambition sought no other praise,

Robert, Ejul of Essex. This is a full length. The eorl
is represented with a red beard, and black hair: his dress is white,
appearing as Uitf and formal as if stulfed with wool. The face is
well painted.

Gekbral Monk, afterwards Duke of Albemarle. Tlis emi-
nent statesman, so distinguished for the important share he took
in the restoration of Charles the Second, and the easevrith which
he effected it, appears to have been employed by the parliament
in direct opposition to the dictates of common sense and rational
deduction. Monk had been bred a soldier and a loyalist ; had at-
tended Charles the First in two expeditions to the north during
the Scotch wars; was sent to Ireland to (|urll the rebellion in that
country, and soon afterwards was appointed governor of Dublin.
These things seem sufficiently indicative of his attarhmeni to mon-
archy; yet the parliament, who, on his return, had witnessed his at-
tempt to relieve Nantwich, in Cheshire, where their army had raadn
hira prisoner, and on that occasion conveyed him to the Tower, al-
lowed him lo be set at liberty, gave him a command, and again dis-
patched him lo Ireland to subdue the rebels, with whom he con-
cluded a peace so disadvantageous to the cause in which he had
embarked, that it subjected him to a vote of censure. But the
heetlless republicans were not yet convinced of his duplicity, and
he was employed under Cromwell gainst the Scots. Oliver, how-
ever, appears to have penetrated into his character; and, not long
before his death, wrote him a letter, to which he added this sin-
gular postscript: " There bo, tliat tell me, that there is a certain
cunning fellow in Scotlanil, called George Monk, who is said to
lie in wait there to introduce Charles Sluuri : I ptay you nse your
diligence to apprehend him, and send him up to me." He died of
a dropsy in the year iGfU.

IlENfcY

BEDFORDSHIRE. 49

• HtHKT DaKvers, Earl of Danby. This earl, in addition to

li* military glor)'' c'osed his fair career by foumling the physic

^en at Oxford in the year 16'32. For this purpose, he pur-

I diased the ground which had been a cemetery of the Jews, and

I inclosed it with a whU at the expenec of 50001.

William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, llic favorite minister of

Queen Elizabeth. This truly great stalcsmaii was, perhaps, one

of the Itcenest, most active, yet disinterested ministeis tbut ever

Ured; for though he held ihe office of Lord High Treasurer twen-

L tf-seven years, he left but a modemtu estate to his family. Cam-

n informs us, chat he would never suficr the rents of lands, tliut

! under bis conlroul, to be raised, our (he old tenants tu ba

I tamed out,

r Chkistiana, Countess of CevonsKire. A lady of distinguished

I- abilities. In her youth she was the plalunic mistreat of William,

P Earl of Pembroke, who, in accordance with the romantic gallantry

if the age, wrote a volume of poems in her praise. Her ladyship

B to have been a fair model of uur ancient nobility; a com-

ind of piety, regularity, dignity, and human wisdom, so dis-

Esreelly classed, as to sufl'cr none of tlicm to trespass on the in-

I'terests of its associates. One of her dependants bos recorded her

I Xfe in a small tract, written in the spiritual tone of the times. Her

^itbiiitff, aiid succt addrtat, (says her biogrnphei,) so won (he la-

r of the sages of the law, that King Charles said to her,

tf Aladam, you have all my Judges at your disposal." The Coun-

a believed to be very instrumental in the conduct of the

eiCoration, being entrusted with the design by that " jieurl of

BCresy," General Monk.

; Tuouas Whiotiieslet, Earl of Souiharapton. It has been
Kmarked, that " puiitanic virulence never aspersed Lord Suuih-
ampton, either when he opposed its power, or rose on iu
ruin; that his virtues escaped both contagion and ridicule, in a
most prolUgaie and satiric court ; and tiial sincere patriots believe,
the gales were shut against the inroad of prerogative, at the I'esto-
ration of the man who was placed by tlie King at the head of the

Kosury.'' That character must be exalted, inde«d, whose quali-
icotild engage the good will of so many discordant tempers.
Vot. I. E Rachei.,

**1BF0IIDSB1RE.

Rachel, LaDV Rdssel. Second daughter of the great and
good Wriolhealey, above mentioned ; and wife lo the justly ad-
mired Lord RhsscI. The iin-'haken flrmness of this virtuous
heroine, vrMte she assisted her husband during his trial, was the
effect nf a most deitrmincd command over the tenderest sensibi-

lity, and not tlie re«ult of a sloical apathy, miscalled philosophy,
for the moment he was no more, she gave such incessant loose to
her tean, as, it is supposed, occasioned her subsequent blindness.
She lived to a great age, revered almost as a saint, and vanerated as
(he relict of the martyr to liberty and the constitution. Thi» lady
K drawn in her widow's weeds; her head is reclined on her hand,
and her countenance is marked by deep and eKpressive sorrow.

Most nf the above portraits are in the Galleby, which is
111 feet 6 inches in length, 17 feet p inches wide, and 15 ti^t
high. Hence we are condu«ted lo the

Saloon, 35 feet 6 inches wide, S5 and a half feet long, and 37
and a half feet high. This handsome room occupies the centre of
the west front, and contains thirteen pictures; the principal are
these.

A Portrait of Lewis the Fifteenth, in his robes, l?63, a,
fiill length, lliis tine picture was copied from A'anloo, and pre-
sented to the fourth Uuke o( Bedford when ambassador at the
court of France.

Two large Landscapes, by Gasper Poussul

Abel found in the Agonies of Death: Rembrandt. This pic-
ture is ftxquisitely fine. The artist has placed the figure in a sin-
gular position, to represent the contortions of a murdered man.
The fore-shortening is executed in a masterly manner; tlie head
and shoulders coming foremost: the chin, kneci, and hands, drawn
together. The colouring and effect are most skilfully executed.

Angels in the Clouds: Murillo. Truly beautiful.

The lOiu of llgbt,

Poii'd en the Seccy nuDiIei of the iky,
Hctelingeringiprcad theii icaiccly waving pluma;
And, rednlcni with joy, diiw balmy iweeti
From die mtd lK»om of the glowing tit.

BE&FOttnStltaE.

I * JoMpfi interpreting the Baker's Drc

" Aad Jdieph aruwercd, and la

^^ Ihe f

,,..- ju^|,.. ..^™c,tu, uiu •■^u, thii it tit inliipretitior thereof:
! three batlteu are three diyi, Yel within thrte dayi ihsll Phanoh lift
thy bad from off ihn, and thalt hang thee on a tM^ and [he bitdi
■■ ihall eat thy aah."

The Drawing-Room. (North.) View in the Netherlands:
Cuj^. Clear and tmnsparent, well drawn, and cbuniiingly co-
toured.

Two Landscapes: Gasper Poussin.

View of Hoiighton Conquest: R. Wilson. This eminent Eng-
lish artist gave dignity and picturesque beauty to evci'y liubicct
that came beneath the touch of his animated pencil. The chief
part of the mansion represented in tlic picture was taken down
when the Swan Inn at Bedford was building, and some of the ma-
terials were used in the construction of that fabiic.

Boy and Pigeons: Vetto.

Head ofa Girl, its companion: Rembrandt.

The Little Drawisg-Room. Ballad Singers: Both. A
jood.group, though, poiisibly bad cliuractcrs. However we may
delight in the presence of this kind of company when confined in
a frame, their absence in nature seems most desirable.

A Dutch Kitchen : Both. We may here regale the aiglit, though
we seek in vain to ^tjsfy the appetite.

A small LandiiCiipc, with figures: Claude.

Two smalt Pictures ; Salvator Rosa.

A Landscape with Cattle, ficc. Bergham. A «ery fine paint-
ing. The anUl is famous for the spirit and truth with which his
animals arc generally executed,

A Landscape, a pleasing woody scene: Bci^ham.

A Ivindscape with Figures: Cuyp.

Dutch Boors at Skitiles: D. Teniers.

Returning through the two preceding apartments, we are con-
ducted to the West DixiMG-RooM, the pannels of which are
ornamented with eight whole length portraits, bj' A'andytk, As
the principal of these ha\'c already hei-n descrihed, we shall pass

52 BSPromDSBxms.

on to the Diiriiro-RooM South. This cootuiis twentj-fiihr
views in Venice, by Canaletti. Adjoining to this is the Duke's
room, which opens into the

LiBRARTu 50 feet long, and 24| feet wide. Elegance,
taste, and literature, are here concentrated to captivate and
delight the imagination. The shelves are stored \vith the choicest
productions of genius and ability, arranged in the most superb
and costly bindings; and the collection of PORTRAITS arc
invaluable, as will be readily acknowledged by a perusal of the
following list.

Titian, born 1480; died 1576, aged 96. This artist has
ever been esteemed for his fine colouring. He made Nature hit
principal study; and imitated her hues with the greatest oomct-
ness and felicity ; not only in the tints of his carnations, when he
painted figures, but even in the local colours introduced into his
compositions. An anecdote is related of this master, highly
complimentary to his own talents, and to the nobleness of mind
of the Emperor Charles the Fifth. Titian had painted his por-
trait several times. One day, when the Emperor was ntting, the
pencil dropt from the artist's hand : the Monarch immediately
stooped^ took it up, and presented it to the painter, who, some-
what agitated by his Majesty's condescension, commenced an
apology ; which Charles interrupted, sayingf, ** the merit of a
Titian is worthy the attendance of an Emperor."

-Titian dar*d to toar,

And reach'd the loftiest height of colouring's power.

FmsNOY.

Rembrandt, bom at Leyden, 1606; died 1674, aged 68.
This bold and spirited painter is celebrated for the force, contrast,
truth of colouring, and chiaro-oscuro, which characterize his
productions. He was an artful tradesman, as well as an industri-
ous artist. Sandrart asserts that he managed the sale of his
paintings and etchings with so much address, that he gained
every year at least 2000 florins. His etchings are much admired,
and good impressions are very scarce, consequently very dear.
His portraits are always good ; and though his historical painting^

are

DFOROSHIRE.

iGcicnt in graceful
4ad light and sbade, are

t their effects uf coloi

Rembnndl, through same daikcn'd

Spreidt hit Sift liiiii, and aninutci (he gbom.

TiNTOHETTO, bom at Venice, 1512; died 15il+, aged 83.
He obtained this name from being the son of a dyer. His pater-
nal name was Robusti. His rapidity of painting occasiouril
him to be called Furioso Tintoretto, or, the Impetuous. His
manner of pdnting is bold, and spirited, with »irong lights oppo!>ed
to deep shadows; and his colouring, particularly his carnations,
approach very near to those of Titian.

David Temeks, liie Younger, boin at Antwetp, 161O; died
169^', aged 84-. The productions of this extraordinary genius
procured him the friendship of many noble families ; and likewise
ned heads, the King of Spain, and Christiana, Queen

■ of Sweden. The former employed him several years, and hud a
gallery erected as an exclusive repository for his paintings; the

t latter made him valuable presents ; and, among others, a chain

' of gold, with her own busto impressed on a medal. Nutwe was
Lis model, and he imitated her with astonishing correctness. The
expression of his figures, whether they are mirthful or grave, in
anger or good humour, isremarkabiy chaste and natural. Land-
scapes and rustic diversions were the chief subjects of his pencil.
Rt/BENs, bom at Cologne, 1577; died 1^40, aged 63. This
illustrious painter was patronized anil caressed by several rao-

• narchs, and was at length knighted by Charles the First, who
to paint some of the apartments of Whitehall. " His
expression," says Pilkington, " is noble and just; his colouring
lively, glowing and natural; (uid his invention amazingly
fertile." His pencil is mellow, his execution remurkablv fiee, and
bis pictures are finished in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.

Rabeni came, and cauh'd, jo cotouii bright.
The flickering tlubei of celeslilllight I
Dipp'd hit bold pencil in ibcTainbaw'i dye,
And luL'd Lhe (iimieni radiance of the iky.

t Lah:

Baetholousw

54 BIDFORDSHIRI.

Bartholomew Stephen Murillo, born near Sevillei
1613 ; died \6S5, aged 72. The favorite subjects of this artist
arc beggar-bo} s, which are much valued ; but these, like many-
other good paintings, are often copied, and imposed on purchasers
as originals.

Frakk Hals* born 15S^; died 1666, aged 82. The per*
traits of this master are well drawn, and coloured with much
force and nature. Vandyck conceived so high an opinion of his
merit, that, it is reported, he travelled to Haarlem, purposely to
visit him. He introduced himself as a gentleman on his travels,
wishing to have his portrait taken, but in too much haste to stay
longer than two hours. Frank hurried from the tavern, seised a
piece of canvass, and commenced his task ; which, when consK
derably advanced, he asked his guest to inspect. Vandyck seemed
much pleased, and said, the work appeared so easy that he
believed he could do the like himself. He then took the appara-
tus, made HsCls sit down, and began. In about a quarter of an
hour Frank beheld his own picture with astonishment, and
declared, that no one but Vandyck could work like it. An ex-
planation ensued. The artists embraced, and, after some time
spent in friendly conversation, separated with mutual r^et.

Jan Steen, born at Ley den, 1636; died l689> aged 53.
This artist excelled in humorous subjects ; in groups of curious
figures, which he always marked with striking character and
expression. One peculiarity in his compositions is worthy imita-
tion; his figures never deceive us : we can readily distinguish the
boor, the gentleman, and the various other classes of society,
either by their forms, attitudes, air, or expression.

Sir Godfrey Kneller, born at Lubeck, l648; died 1726,
aged 78. After travelling over several parts of the Continent,
this artist came to London, and received peculiar honor from
Charles the Second, who sat for his portrait at the painter's house
in Covent Garden. He was State painter to Charles the Second,
James the Second, William the Third, Queen Anne, and Geoi^
the First.

JOHK

BESFonnsiiiR

1667; died
nconqtierable

4RN Kv?XTSKi, born al Foninn, Bohemia,
1740, aged 73- Kupeljki fell a most ardeiil and i
incljnalion for painling even in his earliest years. His strong '
aversiun to trade induced bim to desert his father's house when
the necessities of his family would have lixed him to a. mechanicul
business. Undetermined whither to direct his coui^c, he wander-
ed about for some time, beggini; his hr«ad, and enduring extreme
hardship. Al length, having stopped in quest of assistance at the
ca.stle of Count Czohor, he there »av/ a painter of ri?putation at
work, named Clans; and. after surveying the productions of bis
pencil with considerable attention, he look up a piece of diarcoal,
and on the wall imitated some of the ornaments with so much
Ipifit, that both the count aiul the painter were surprised at the
[Mwerful clfect of his uninslructed genius; for Kupetzki being
uked by whom he had been taught, answered, that, " Late for
tie Art had been hi» only Initruclor," This essay. of ability was
made in a happy hour for the destitute traveller, Tlie genei'ous
nobleman took him iolo the castle, provided him with necessaries,
ftnd engaged Claus to instruct him in ihe art. He was afterwards
cipal painter to the F.mpenir Jusepli; and Charles the Third
would willingly have retained hiro in the same station, but he prefer-
red liberty to all the advantages of so honorable an employment.
All the above portraits were painted by the respective artists
I 'whose names they bear. The six following were executed by
Vandycl;.

JoRK SVELLiNCii, bom at Mechlin, 1544; died l638, a^ii
I '94. Vandyck regarded him as one of the best artists in the Low
L Countries, «nd painted this portrait fur him aa a testimony of his

Peter de Joqe, theen|^ver; and family.

Dakiel iMttens, andhis wife. He was bom at the Hague
lC3();diedl68S, aged 52. Mytenn was aprincipal painter toCharle*
the First, previous lo the arrival of Vandyck; when the former,
in disgust, solicited permission to retire to his own country. The
King having learnt the cause of his dissatisfaction, intrcated him

itay, and told him, that he could find sufficient cmploymyit

h for him and V'andyck. Mytens' grateful sense of this kind-
li 4 nets

56 BEDFORItftHIRB. ,

ness induced him to consent; and it seems probable^ from this
portrait, that he afterwards became intimate with his rival.

Philip le Roy.

Charles de Mallery, engrater of Ant^ve^p.

John Wo u w e r m a n s , died 1 666. The brother of the cele-
brated Philip Wouwermans. He died young, and his pieces Were
consequently too few to establish his reputation.

Diogenes, born at Sinope; died before Christ 324, aged 76*
Sal. Rosa. This celebrated cynic philosopher was the disciple of
Antisthenes at Athens. Though he was not the founder of the
Cynics, he added many austerities to the order. With all his'
affected humility, he was insufferably proud; and when Alcxandeir
the Great visited him, and inquired if he could do him any ser-
vice, he snarlingly replied, *• get out of my sunshine." When
he died, the inhabitants of Sinope erected a monument to his
memory, and placed the marble figure of a dog on the top, as a
memorial of his crabbed disposition.

John Baptist Colbert, born at Paris, l6l9; died l6B3f
aged 64. Champagni. This celebrated statesman was the 8<m
of a silk merchant. In l648 he became clerk to LeTclliery the
secretary of state at Paris, and afterwards married his daughter.
Having transacted some important business for Cardinal Mazarine)
that minister, on his death, recommended him to Louis the Four-
teenth, as the most proper person to be appointed Intendant of the
finances. In this situation he formed new systems for the glory,
commerce, and manufactures of France. In the year l664 he
was made superintendant of the buildings, and instantly began to
improve the capital, by the erection of the most elegant struc-
tures. He instituted the academy of painting and sculpture,
and the academy of sciences. By his recommendation, like-
wise, the royal observatory was built, of which Cassini was the
first inhabitant. In 1669 he was made secretary of state and
marine minister. In the management of the duties of these offices,
he gave satisfaction both to his prince and to the people.

From this interesting repository we are conducted into a singu-
l^ly elegant apartment, called the Etruscan Room. It is fur-
nished in a peculiar style, and adapted to the curiosities which it

contains ;

BEDFORDSHIRE. 57

contains ; among these an- ihirli^en Etruscan V'uscs. These nn-
tiques were purchased at Lord Cawdoi's sale, who brought ihcm
from ihc Vaiicaii at Bome, •

On tlie chimney-pii'ce is a small china bust of Bonaparte,
First CoxsuL of the Frekch Republic. Tliia is acknowledged
to be a fine and correct likeness of that wonderful and cxtraordi-
uuy character, in whose bands the destinies uf Europe appear to
be upheld.

The pictures in this apartment are inclosed in black ffames,
l^ich are far preferable to the poinpuus gilt ones, that are'now
O fiuhimiiMe. Though the glare ot rich n'lding and hiimlshing
Ay pinuctlteeyeufa carver, it must be acknowledged, that they
talerially injure the effect of a light deticatr iaiiilsco/H; especially
rfccrc llie effect of a morning or evening sun is iJitroducvd. AD the
Ictures in this room are choice specimens of the respective mas-
The paper, carpel, curtains, &c. being all of a biownish
iir, seem admirably calculated to show itiem to advantage.
A village scene, with figures: Ruyadalc,
\ A Landscape with Cattle: P. Potter; dated ^651.
• A Flemish Wake: D. Tenien; dated l640. This valuabb
CIUK contains several groups of figures, in one of which the
It has given his own portrait.
■ View in Holland: Cuyp. A most fascinating, lovely picture.
Ihe colouring is from Nature, consequently very good. It repre-
sents a IroKen canal, with several groups travelling on sledgca,
fishermen drawing a net from under the ice, &c. This was pur*
, chased at Mr. Bryant's, Pull-Mall, from the Calune Collection.
I Three Sea Pieces: Voudervclde.
, A Mcrry-Making; D. Teniers.

I The till I of Hypolitus: Rubens, A smiitl but very beautiful
billet picture. The subject is taken from the Fitieenth Book
E Ovid's Metamorphoses. Hypolitus relates Llie manner of his

With horror wrapt, and fieree -with m
The foiniing hona high aea their at
O'er rugged rocks the ■{uner'il charic
White I, 10 curb iheii fury, vainly a.

58 BtBFOKDSHIRE.

And pnll the itiat, extnded at my length;

Yet had their irigour not o'erpower'd my stfength,

But that the fervent wheel, with sudden stroke,
Whirl'd on a ragged ktump, asunder broke.
Thrown from my chariot, in the reins fast hound,
My quivering entrails sraok'd upon the ground ;
And every limb, disjointed with the shock.
Hung on the stump, or bled upon the rock.

A number of other pictures are distributed through the different
mpaAoents of this extensive building. We cannot particularize
tho whole, but must close our account of these admirable pro-
ductiooi of human ingenuity, with briefly noticing the ioUowing
pieces.

Innde of St. Paul's, Rome : Stenwyck.
. Imide of a Hall: P. Neefe.

Cympn and Iphigenia: Polemburg. A very delightfol pictofe.
T1iC{ story is well told, and the attitude and expression of the clowii
eacceedingly well managed.

Oliver C&omwell, with his Son and Daughter. The
wmrper is portrayed at full length, dressed in his leathern doub-
lets A field of battle is represented in the distance. Olivei^s
jacket is now in Parkinson's museum.

Three Landscapes : Gainsborough. These are not executed in
the artist's best style : they are, nevertheless, clever.

J^ Landscape with figures : P. Wouwermans. A fine clear pic*
tare. On the left hand is a,gToup of travellers and horses; on the
lightt a boy directing their movements.

From the Duke's apartments, on the south side of the iiuiklhig,
a covered way, or piazza, leads to the Green House. This is
a handsome building, about 140 feet in length, containing a'gfeat
variety of valuable'plants : but what renders it peculiarly interest-
ing to the connoisseur and artist, is the grand Vase which has
lately been stored in this aromatic miiseum. This great curiosity
demands a particular account, which we arc enabled to give,
from a letter of Mr. T^itham, architect. " This celebrated
Bacchanalian vase was purchased by the Duke from the noble

collection

SEDFORDSIIIHE.

collection of Lord Cawdor, ii
gjiinras. It h of the lotus* foru

June, J 800, for it-cen hvnHrcd

, bcil-^tiapud, and tviis most prn-

bnbly consecrated to the goci Baccliu% as may be concluded from

' the finely -sculptured bacchanalian masks, and other lealurcs that

tecom|>anv 'l. It mmi, therefore, have been uictl either as a

laver, or as a symbol only of this part of the heathen mythology,

f and for no other use; for it is certain that tio wine was over

poured into it.

. superb monument of antique decoration was dug up
a ago among the ruins of Adrian's villa, together with
' the fragnients of three other vases of nearly similar diraensjoua,
I ^1 of which appeared, by the litualion in h hich they were found,
I to have occupied the same spot of that once extensive and mag-
nificent emporium of ail. It was tlien removed to the villa Lantr,
sear Rome, where for many years it attracted the notice, and ex-
cited the admiration, of both the traveller and the artist. This,
1 and one at Warwick Castle, which is somewhat more decorated,
are the only comjAele vases of the same dimensinns and antiquity
re, unquestionably, the most magnilicent and noble-
I sculptured specimens of antique decoration of this kind ever dis-
[ covered,

" The Lanti vase was broujiht from Rome, about twelve years
), at a coosiderable risk and expeiice, by the Itight Honor-
able Lord Cawdor, on whose classical taste and iudgmeut it must
«ver confer the highest credit. The removal of this grand ivork
itfart from that city caused great jealousy among the superinteiVr
dants of the Vatican museum, then forming under the auspices of
the reigning pontiff, the late Pius VI. who, it is well known, in
his resentment on this occasion, tlirealened several persons con-

Icen>ed in the removal of the vase, with the gallies.
" The dimemiions of the vase arc : diameter of the mole, six
feet three inches ; height, with its present plinth, six feet nine
inches."
:

Hero

• The foimi of
Mlyx of Ehc loiui, '

re igppQi.

n in Upper

60 BSDFORDSHIKB.

Here are also some excellent statues, particularly an Apollo
Behidere ; a group of Cupid and Psyche ; and two figures of
Venus, in different positions.

From the east end of this building the piazza continues nearly
a quarter of a mile in length to the Dairy. This singular and
beautiful structure is built in the Chinese style, and ornamented
with painted glass. Its situation is well calculated for its purpose :
cool, shady, and pleasant; and the utensils with which it is fur-
nished, are all of the most elegant workmanship and convenient
^rms.

The country round Wobum presents a wide; open, and rather
flat surface : the soil is mostly sand, and generally destitute of
trees ; yet the Duke's park abounds with wood, and afibrds many
delightful prospects of forest scenery. The ground is diversified
with bold swells and a pleasing inequality of surface. The parfL
is well stocked with deer ; and is surrounded with a brick wall
eight feet in height, and about twelve miles in circumference. It
has been considerably enlarged of late years, and lies in different
parishes.

The circumstance by which this extensive domain is more pe-
culiarly characterized, is the commodious farms situated in and
near it. One of these, which is distinguished by the name of the
PARK FARM, merits the attention of every man who feels in-
terested in the advancement and perfection of the important
science of agriculture. Every ingenious contrivance to shorten
labour, or invention to facilitate useful operations, are here con-
centrated.

The farm-yard b replete with conveniences. It contains bamSy
stables, fatting-houses, &c. and a very complete milt, furnished
with a curious machine, which threshes and dresses at the same
time ; a maltern ; two pair of stones, for grinding wheat and bar-
ley ; and every requisite for dressing flour, making oatmeal, &c.
In another part is a small water-wheel, which gives motion to
some very ingenious machinery for bruising malt, and cutting
fodder to chaff. The water is supplied by pipes, which convey it*
from ponds situated on the adjoining eminences.

niii

H >»d

BEDFORDSHIRE. 6]

< Uus (arm originated with the present Duke of BeilforJ, through
whose patronage and praise-worthy exertions, miiny improve-
ments have been made in the diffi-rent branches of husbandry.
What is generally done by a united society, is here effected by
I an individual : bis Grace rewards invention, fosters ingenuity, and
I gives a fiur practical trial to every now theory in this invaluable
'art.

The truly patriotic endeavours of the Duke are nobly seconded
by Lord Ossory, Mr. Wliitbread, and many other private gentle-
men. By their uujtcd influence, and spirited example, a most
laudable emulation hos been elicited among the fanners in this
p»rl of the country, the good effects of which are already become
distinct and visible. The qualities of kine, horses, sheep, hi^,
&c. have been greatly improved by the introduction of the breed
tff other couiiiies; and the melioration of the land has kept pace
with the improvement ot' the cattle : both arc progressively advanc-
ing to perfection.

The Duke has instituted an annual sheep-shearing, at which be-
tween three and four hundred persons arc generally assembled lo
partake of the festive cheer which tlicn prevails at Woburo. The
*inectiiig is held about the middle of June, and continues for
e or four days. During this time experiments are made with
invented agricultural implcmenis, and the inventors of those
which are judged to be of most utility, are rewarded. Considera-
ble premiums arc also given lo such pei-sons, who, in the couree of
the preceding vear, have expended the greatest sums in introduc-
ing the breed of other counties, or who produce the best spe(.'i-
mens of sheep, &c. bred in Dedfurdshii'e : smaller sums are dis-
tributed for the furtherance of other beneficial practices.*

The

* The pTcmiumi for the preicnl year aie lo be iliilributeil 11 rollow). fift)
guincai lo ihc pciion m Bedfordshire, who tieiwcen June aiid Chriiuiui, 1800,
btt expended the grcilut lum of money (not leu ihan lixty guineai) ia [be poT-
Ch»e of btccding-ewcs, 01 theivei, of the new Lejceilet or South Down breed:
TWatyguinui to the pcrionwho ihall have expended the oextlar^tii tum on the
cup, vaJui! Tn giiinui, It) ilie penon who ihall breed, and
^(Vduceat Wuburn ihecp-ihuting, t^e best two ihesrfat wetheii: /lut guineu

62 BEDFORBSHXRS.

The RusssL family may date the era of their greatness to a

violent storm, which happened about the year 1500, on the coast

of Dorset ; a county which appears to have been the birth-place

of their ancestors, one of whom was constable of Corfe Castle in

the year 1221. Philip, Archduke of Austria, son of the

£mperor Maximilian, being on a voyage to Spain, was obliged,

by the fury of a sudden tempest, to take refuge in the harbour of

Weymouth. He was received on shore, and accommodated by

Sir Thomas Trenchard, who invited his relation, Mr. Johk

RvssEL, to wait upon the Archduke. Philip was so much

pleased with the polite maimers and cultivated talents of Mr*

Russel, who was conversant with both the French and Gemm

languages, that, on arriving at court, he recommended him to

the notice of Henry the Seventh, who immediately sent for hiai

to his palace, where he remained in great fovor till the Kioffs

death. In the estimation of Henry the Ei^th he rose still higher:

by that Monarch he was made Lord Warden of the Stannariee,

Lord Admiral of England and Ireland, Knight of the Garter,

and Lord Privy Seal; and on the pth of March, 1538, created

Baron Rnssel of Cheneys in the county of Bucks, which estate

he afterwards acquired by marriage. At the coronatioa of

Edward the Sixth, he officiated as Lord High Steward; and two

years afterwards, in the year 1549, was created Earl of Bedford.

He died in 1554, and was buried at Cheneys, where many of

his descendants have also been interred. He was succeeded by

his son Francis. On, bis death, in the year 1585, the estates

and titles devolved to his grandson Edward, whose father had

been slain by the Scotch in the Marches but two days before.

Edward died in the year 1627* and was succeeded by his cousin

Francis, whose great plan of draining the level of the fens added

vast sums to hb annual income. He died in 1 641, and was sue*

ceeded

to the penonwho shall produce the two best fat shear wethen bred id BedftnUtin,
A cup, value Ten guineas, to the breeder of the best theave ; and fhe gulnett to
the breeder of the second best: both to be the produce of the county. And ^
Twenty guincu to the person who shall invect the most useful agncuUunl imple-
nient.

BF.DFOKUSIIIIIII. £3

3 by his eldest son, \Villiain, whoso impartiality, as we have
already stated, (page 44,) induced him to coincide occasionally
with the measures of both parties during the dreadful contest
between Charles the First and his Parliament. He was at one

I time, General of the Horse, in the array of the latter. Though he
had no less than seven sons, he appears to have outlived them
ftll^for, (in his death, in 1700, his honors and estates devolved on
hisgrandson, Wriotbesley; who, dying of the small-pox in 1711)
IS succeeded by Wriothesley his son, who was then only about

, lix years of age ; he dying in 173!2, was succeeded by his brother,

I John, who was employed in the management of many important
yfEairs, particularly in the year I763, when he negociated thu

I peace of Versailles. Francis, the fifth and present dui.e, suc-
I his grand-father in 1771 ; the immediate successor, the

I •ccomplisbed Mar(]uis ui Tavistuckr beix^g killed by falling fruut
his horse in 17(>7-

^^M was

AMPTHILL,

Thovch on a sandy soil, is pleasantly situated near th*
centre of the county, between two hills. This small town liai>
been much improved of late years, particularly by the erection
of an handsome market -house. The principal streets are neat
and regular, crossing each other ui right angles. Near the
middle of the town is an obelisk of Portland stone, in which is a
pump, built, fur the use of the inhabitants, by the Cart of
Upper Ossory, There arc many good houses here, and also an
extensive brewery.

In the churcL is a mural monument to the memory of Richard
NichoUs, who was governor of Long Island after the expulsion of
the Dutch. He was gentleman of the lied-charaber to the Duke
of York, and was killed while attending his Royal Highness in
the famous engagement between the fleets of England and
Holland, May 28, l672. What is remarkable in this monu-
ment, is the preservation of the very ball with which the governor
>lain. This b a five or six pounder : it is iitlaid iu marble.

•ml J

6^ BEDFORDSBIftS«

and placed within the pediment ; on the moulding of which, on
each side of the bullet, are these words :

" Instrumcntum Mortis et ImmortalitisJ*
The Instrument of Death and Immortality.

The charitable institutions of this parish are, an alms-house,
founded and endowed by Mr. Cross, some time principal of New
Inn Hall, Oxford; and a school for 13 children. The alms-
house is for 10 poor men and women ; who, besides their place
of residence, have an annual allowance.

West of the town is Amfthill Park, the seat of the Efil
of * Upper Ossory. In the old castle, which stood on mndi
higher ground than the present mansion, and then belonged to
Henry the Eighth, Queen Catherine resided during the time her
nnjust divorce was in agitation before the commissioners al Doo-
stable. She had been cited to appear in court, to defend her
cause; but, on refusing to do so, the sentence of separation was
pronounced.

In reference to this circumstance, a neat octagonal cross,
designed by Mr. Essex, with a shield bearing her arms, has been
erected on the site of the castle by the flarl of Ossory. The
following lines, written by Horace Walpole, are inscribed on the
base:

In days of old, here Ampthill's towers were seen.
The mournful refuge of an injur'd Queen :
Here flow'd her pure, but unavailing tears ;
Here blinded Zeal sustained her sinking years ;
Yet Freedom hence her radiant banners wav'd,
And lA)ve avcng'd a realm by Priests enslav'd :
From Catherine's wrongs a nation's bliss was spread,
And Luther's light from Harry's lawless bed. #

" The castle and town of Ampthill, and divers fair loirdships

thereabout," says Leland, " beloni;cd to Lord Fanhope, a man

of great fame, and very rich, who built this stately castle as it

now standeth, with the spoils he won in the wax's in France.^

'This was in the reign of Henry the Sixth. Sir

IE. ^5

Sh John Cornwall, afterwards Lord Fanhope, married TMm-
belh, CouDtrss Dowager of lluntingdon, sister lu Ilenrpg^io
Fcurtli, whose son, when Prince of Wales, ga»e him large pos-
sessions in Cornwall. Ho drslinguished himself by his gallant
behaviour at the battle of Agincouit, and was created Lord
Fanhope, and Baron Mellirniike, by King Henry the SiNlh. On
tlie death of his son, who was killed at a siege in France, he
retired to this seat, where he died in the year 1443. His suc-
ceMor* was attainted of treason for aiding with the house of
Lancaster; and this estate granted, by Edward the Fourth, to
Edmund Grey, Lord of Ruthin, and afterwards Earl of Kent.
His grandson, Richard, made it over to Henry tlu; Seventh.
From him it descended to his son, who, in the thirty-lliird year .
of his reign, constituted it a Royal Demesne, and named the
Btmexed estate the Honour f of Amiitiiil.

TTie present mansion is a very superb edifice, with wings,
and a flight of steps leading into the hall. It contains n valuable
collection of paintings by old and modem masiersj such as Julia,
Romano, Palma, Rubens, Vandyck, I'araeci, Rembrandt. Tonic is,
Cuyp, Loutherbnurg, Gainsborough, Stubbs, Sir Joshua Rey-
nolds, &c. a handsome librfiry, and a museum of natural history.
Among the pieces of Sir Josliua, are several tiimily pictures ;
also portraits of himself, Garrick, Sterne, &c.

The park furnishes some pleasing prospects: one, a water
tiew, is extremely picturesque. It is reinarhahle for its ancient
oaks, which spread their veneriiblc branches through various parts
of the grounds ; and also for many modern plantations, particu-
larly of tirs. Houghton Park is n^jw united to it, by an excliange
between the Dtike of Bedford and Loid Ossory, and forms all to-
Itelher a very handsome drtmain. The old house, in the latter
Vol. I. F pajk,

icorreci. By tbrm ii ippcan,
lie KoUK, wu [he peniin di>-
mpouiblt: foi the liia Lord

« Tht*

of Cin

thtt John Cotnn-«U, Lotd Fanhope, '
foueatd by Edwaid the Faurlli: bi
Fiahojw died in the (wenly-Hcond ot
wir of the Rtvit Hduk) begin.

. •* Theiei

'cnw ind Be''

66 BEDFORDSHIRB.

park, described and engraved in Pennant's Journey from Chesrterr
has been pulled down, excepting some of the ornamental parts,
uhich form a picturesque ruin. That house was built by Mary,
Countess of Pembroke, (on whom the celebrated epitaph was
written,) in her widowhood, and was afterwards the seat of the
Earl of Ailesbury. About the site of the ruins are some very
fine and extensive prospects over the northern part of the county.

At the entrance of the park, from Ampthill,. was a lodge; aiMl
a pear tree, in which Sir Philip is reported to have wrote part
of the Arcadia ; and Pomfret many of his verses.

About a mile from Ampthill is HouoiiTOir Conqusst, so
called from the family of the Conquests, who long resided herav
This family continued till the middle of the last century, when i$
expired in an> heir female, who, in 1663^ was married to Henry
Lord Arundel of Wardour. This- is but a small village, yet U
has a free school belonging to Sydney College, Carabriil^.
Zachary Grey, the editor of Hudibras, was Rector here.

Maudlki church, about two miles east of Ampthill, is noted
for an octagonal mausoleum to the memory of Diana, Counteit
of Elgin. Her tomb, of white marble, is placed in the centre»^
On it is a sarcophagus, from which rises the figure of the Count-
ess in her shraud. This tasteless performance is thought by the
neighbouring peasantry to resemble an old woman in a punch
bowl.

Near Silsoe, formerly a maricet town, but now divested of that
privilege, is>

WREST,

The seat of t^e Baroness Lucas, daughter to the lafe Eail of
Hardwicke and Lady Jemima Campbell. This was anciently thet
residence of the illustrious family of the Greys, Dukes of Kent;
but the last duke dying without male issue, the estates descended
(o the Lady Jemima, his grand daughter. The house is of whita
stone, and was greatly improved by the Marchioness Grey,^
during her widowhood. It is ornamented with a great nurohep
of pictures. Among the portraits we shall only notice the
foltowii^ Makt*

BEDFORDSHIRB.

Mabt, Qbbes of Scots. This beautiful, but unfortunate,
female is represented dressed in black; her head reclining in a
pensive altitude on a table. The conduct of this giddy, hut
a^complii^hed woman, has Iiecn a thi^nie of considerable aniinad-
version, and much controveryiy. She ha^ been blamed to the
extreme of virulence, and praised to the acme of panegyric;
r is the opinion of the world yet settled as to the degree of
miration or detestation in which her character should be held.
The violence of her enemies haj only been exceeded by the sieal
of her friends; and she has at once been the idol of worship,
and the fiend of abhorrence. The evidence in her favour has
placed her actions in the most exalted light, where every error
appears to be the oflspring of extrinsic necessity, and every virtue,
the emanation of interior goodness ; while, on the other hand,
he arguments to her discredit have considered the shades of hell
a too bright to display the Rtrocity of a life where iiypocrisy
lurked under a sanctified veil, and adultery and midnight murder
were the heralds of pleasure. Thus has her history been reduced
a chaos of contradictions, where consummate censure and '
-unqualified praise so mingle in the discordant mass, that the
utmost eserlion* of cultivated intellect arc scarcely able to dis-
linguisb the suggestions of unadulterated truth &om the ebullitintis
of malicious falsehood. It has been said, and not unaptly,
that, of three histories of her life, written in tiie time
nearest to the age in wliicb she lived; Camden's, whose annals
were revised and corrected by James the First, is almost
wholly devoid of truth ; that Buclianan's told the whole Imlh,
and more than the truth; and that Melvil's related the truth, but
not the lelioU truth. Wiiitakur of Manchester's narrative is
probably superior to them all. Mary was beheaded in Fother-
iogbay Castle, Northamptonshire, on the eighth of February,
1587.

JaKU die First, AssEof Denmakk, and Henry their

MD. Tlis b a very line picture. James was a man of learning,

and the author of several wurks. One of tlicni is a discuune on

^Vilchcraft. Another if entitled, ./ Counterblast agaiMt Tobacco.

i- 2 This

CS BEDPORDSHIKE.

This herb had been taloly introduced into England, and his
Majraty thought proper to warn his loving subjects against its
pernicious and deleterioua effects. Prince Henry died of a fwcr
in the year l6l3, much regretted by the nation.

Lord Someks. This celebrated and renowned statesman had
a (irincipal share in the conduct of the revolution in 1688. The
probity of hia heart seems manifested on his countenance.

Philip, Duke of Wharton. This eccentric noblcmnn
was a man of eminent talent, as well as extfaordinary versatility.
Soon aftLT the death of his father, the Marquis of Wharton, he
went to Geneva, and thence to Lyons, where paying his court to
the Pretender, the Chevalier dc Saint George, he was received
with e^p^essions of great esteem, and was honored with the title
of Duke of Northumberland. Me returned to England at the
latter end of the same year, and soon after went to Ireland,
where his splendid abilities procured him the privilege of sitting
in the house of peers, though still a minor. lie exerted himself
in support of the ministry, and was rewarded with his dukedom'.
When he came to England, he again changed sides, and opposed
the court violently, till, at length, being ruined by hi^ boundless
profusion, he once more retired to the continent, where he
attached himself to the interests of the Pretender, and, after
*arious vicissitudes and adventures, died in 1731.

Lady Rich. This lady is represented arrayed in black, and
very handsome. Waller wrote a poem on her death. This and
the preceding picture, were purchased of the Duke of Wharton hy
Sir Robert Walpolc, and afterwards sold td Lord Hardwicke.
They were both painted by Vandyck.

LokdCiiawcellor Hakdwicke, by Honre of Bath. This
Tery eminent English lawyer was born at Dover in 1690. Aitet
filling the respective stations of Solicitor and Attorney General,
he was appointed Chief Justice of the King's Bench, and created
a Peer. On the decease of Lord Talbot, in 1726, he was pro-
jiiutcd to the otficc of Lord Ciianccllor, which he held 30 years.
In these different situations, wherein tiie interests of so many
jarring tempers arts involved, his extreme impartiality acquired

BEDFORDSHIRE. . 6gi

faim the esteem of &II parlies, and deservedly entitle him to the
veoeratioa of potiterity. He wai created Earl of Uardwicke In
1754.

pHitiP YoRKE, the late Earl, son of the Chancellor: by
Gainsborough.

ARABELLA, the good Countess of Kent, who, in the laatcen-
tury, redeemed and improvod the estate during her ion's minarity.

Sir William Tehplb. This portrait was copied from
Lely. The Knight b arrayed in a red vest; his long hair is
black and flowing, his whiskers smull. In his hand is the triple
alliance, the greatest act of his patriotic life; but its utility wai
quickly frustrated by the profligate ministry of the times.

Lady Jane GnAT, The dress of this suffcring innocent is s
plain white cap, a handkerchief fastened under her arms, and a
W&ck gown. A hook is in her hand. Tlie talents and acquire-
tients of this much injured lady were most uncommon. She
was mislrcs« of Greek and Latin, versed in Hebrew, Chaldee,
Ambic, French, and Italian; skilled in Music, and excellent el
ber needle; and though possessed of till these accomplishments,
was only 1? years of age, when the cruel policy of the bigott^d
Hary caused hei^io be beheaded.

Sia Chakles Lucas: by Dobson. A half length, Sir
Charles b dressed in armour, with a tine sash, and long hair.
This gentleman was put to death at Colchester, after the garrison
had surrendered, fur a reason that ought to have endeared him to
a, soldier, ihe vigorous defence to which he had excited the troops
under his command.

In the passage is a most curious portrait of Lady Susan
' Gbey, daughter of Charles, Earl of Kent, and wife to Sir
Michael Longueville. She was a celebrated workwoman, and
the dress in which she is drawn is siud to be a wedding suit of her
own making. Tliis lady is fabled to have died 5n consequence
of pricking bor finger with her needle. She looks as pale as if
the story were true. Her gown is finely flowered; her petticoat
white, and striped; her robes lined with ermine; bcr veil, large
and distended; her wedding ring hatiga from her wrist by a silken
siring. F 3 Secretary

70 BEDFORDSHIRE.

Secretary Walsingham, in a quilled ruff; the active^
penetrating, able, and faithful servant of Queen Elizabeth; the
safeguard of her kingdom, as well as person. This patriot states-
roan was so attentive to the interests of his country, and so
negligent of his own, as to die (1590) without leaving enough to
defray his funeral expences.

The pleasure grounds were considerably improved by the
plastic hand of Brown, whose skill in embellishing garden
scenery is particularly displayed in the noble serpentine river,
which forms a principal ornament in these grounds, that for
beauty, prospect and extent, have been denominated the Stow
of Bedfordshire. They abound with many fine iai^ trees, and,
like the gardens of Stow, in Buckin^amshire, have several ar*
chitectural ornaments situated in various parts, as obelisks,
temples, pantheon, &c. The taste of decorating gardens with
such ostentatious objects prevailed in England about the time that
these two, and Stourhead, in Wiltshire, were first ktid out.
The park abounds with wood, and contains a number of deer.
Intone part is a very fine obelisk, whose situation and height
renders it conspicuous through a circuit of several miles.

About a mile and half west of this man^n, is *the little
village of Flitton : in the church is the memorial of a very
singular instance of longevity. On the floor, near the altar, is
a figure, in brass, of an honest starard! a true Vellum in aspect
He appears dressed in a long cloak, trunk breeches, great ruff,
and lai^e night-cap. His name was Thomas Hill, a receiver-
general to three Earls of Kent. His character is recorded in
these lines :

Aske how he lived, and you shall know his ende.
He dyde a saint to God, to poore a friende.
These lines men know doe truly of him story.
Whom God hath called, and seated now in glory.
He died May 26, l601. Aged 128.

Adjoining to the church is the mausoleum of the Greys. This
consists of a centre and four wings. In one is the tomb of Henry,

the

BEDFORDSHIILE. 71

1*1? lifth Kill! of Kent. He is licstribed by Pennant, as a fiery
xralot, wlio sat in judgment on Alary Stuart, and with inie
bigotry refused her the consolation of her almoner in licr lust
liaurs. His brutality induced him to give u rcluclani assent, to
her request of having a few of her domestics to [icrfunn their
IuikI duties to their dying mistress.

Soulhwartl of Flitton is Pullox-Hill, where, in the be-
p'nDuig of the last century, a gold mine was supposed to have
been discovered. I'his van sei/ed for tlic king, and leased to a re-
finer. The ^rst substance found beneath the common earth, ap-
peared like a mixture of clay and iron ore, or smitli's cinders.
Bemsath was a heavy yellowish metal, like talc. This was reported
to contain the gold; but the produce being insufticieni to defray
the expences of working, it was cjuickly given up.

SoCidcd Hapc'i'gay d>
And all iu ipl«ndoii vi

The bubble bursl.

ufa'd \i,

Some distance from Wresl-House, on the south, is
of HiGHAM-GoBiov. This little obscure parish, containing
almost as few houses as any in the county, is yet fainnus for
being the reclo^, retreat, and burial-place, of the great orien-
talist, Dr.EnMiTNDCASTELL. This leamcd divine wastheauthor
of the Lexicon Hcptaglotton, and had a principal concern in the
Folyglol Bible. He was born in ib'Ofi, ax He/let/, in Cambridge-
shire, and was educated at Emanuel College, whence he removed
to St. John's. While at this university, he commenced bis Lex-
icon, that memorable proof of his knowledge and industry. He
was presented with the rectory of Higham-Gobion in 1663. In
1666 he was appointed King's chaplain, aiid Arabic professor at
Cambridge; and two years afterwards, a prebendary of Canter-
bury. By intense application to study, he was first deprived of
sight, and then of life, in the tiSih year of his age. He waa buried
in the chancel, with an inscription, recording his learning, &c. en-
graven on a tablet of blacV marble, placed against the north wall.
Thus perish the sons of science, Even the acquirement of know-
ledge, when pursued beyond the bounds of pruilenee, is at
r + detrimental

73 BEDFORDSHIRE.

detrimental to human existence, as the irrational conduct of
the drunkard and the profligate.

SOUTH-HILL

Is only remarkable from containing the seat of the Torrington
family. In the church is the following inscription to the memory
of the unfortunate Byng, who was sacrificed by an infamous
ministry to appease the clamours of the people, and divert dieir
attention from the misconduct of the government. He was shot
at Portsmouth.

To the perpetual Dbgrace of

Public Justice, ^

The Honourable John Byng,

Vice Admiral of the Blue,

Fell a Martyr to

Political Persecution

On March 14, in the Year 1757,

When Bravery and Loyalty

Were insufficient Securities

For the Life and Honour

Of a naval Officer.

NORTH-HILL.

The church at this village, dedicated to St. Mary, was made
collegiate in the reign of Henry the Fourth : and endowed for the
support of a master, warden, and several fellows, by the execu-
tors of Sir John Trolly, Knight, and Reginald, his son, as a peace
offering for their souls. Its revenues amounted to 6ll. 5s. 5d.

The painted window in this church is celebrated for having
been the workmanship of Oliver. " A name," says Horace Wal-
pole, " that can never be omitted when it occurs in any branch
of the arts." We suppose he means without eulogium; but the
sentence is somewhat obscure. The window is over the communion

table.

. nt the east end of the chaacd, undt^r a
li oruaments a.t the top ia Bti)jie-woi*k.
inpariiucnts. The ceutrc coutaiiu the
MRil; the right-hand division, the arm;

BEDFOHDSItiltE. 73

Gothic arch,
8 disposed in theee

IS of Charlet th«

the Grocers' com-

and of the master and second warden ', antl the compart-

m the left, the arms of Lady iSUney. and of the third and

ih wardens, with the artist's uanie st the bottom, Benealh

motto, in the centre, is A. D. iti(i+, iG Caroli II. and ai

:riptton, puiportiiig, that the window was glazed, and the

;cl ceiled and beautified by the company of Grocers. wb»

based the impropriation, and settled it Wihe solic benefit of

church, according to the trust and appointment of the

memorable Lady Dame Margaret Slaney. The colors arc still

very perfect, and the whole in good preservation.

The windows of the RECToav have been remarked by Mr,
lur Young, in his Six IP'eekt' Tour, for being adorned witli
i pieces of painted glass by the above artist, each con-
ining a fly, so exquisitely executed, " as to exceed even the
power of imagination to conieitc." Unqualified praise, like ful-
iomc panegyric, renders defects more striking. The flies are very
naturally done, yet hardly worth the notice that has been takes
of theio. One i« a common house fly, painted in the centre of ft
dial on very ordinary green glass ; the other a larger fly, with two
^lerries before it in the middli' of another dial, on the same kind
glass. The wings are painted on one side, and the body and
the other, which causes a deception. The dials bear thn
:tocs, " D"" sped us /agio," and " Sic transit gloria tnundi."
the bottom of "lie of them is " John Oliver fecit;" and at the
l6ti4." When the artist executed the window for the com-
ly, it is probable tbat he gave the dials to the rector to orna-
the different sides of his house, Paintings of this nature are
Dcommon, We have seen one exceedingly well represented
the dining-room window of Mr. Harold, Bookseller, at Marl-
irough; and others in various places. The rectory at North-
ill has been lately rebuilt, and ihe above painliugs are now

WarbeW

Kthi
nir

74 BEDFOUDSniRE.

Warden Abbey, seated nearly midway between the two latter
places, was formerly a very extensive and considerable monastery;
but the destroying hand of Time has nearly demolished it : two
rooms, and a staircase, are the only parts which remain perfect.
It was founded, in 1 135, by Walter Espec for Cistercian Monks.
At the dissolution, its revenues were valued at 3891. l6s. 6d. per
annimi. The estate was purchased by the late Samuel Whitbread,
Esq. who was very desirous of preserving the ancient remains.
Some curious figured stones, subterranean passages, &c. have
been discovered at different times, as the earth has been dug away
in the vicinity of the ruins.

BIGGLESWADE

Is agreeably situated on the river I vol, which has been made
navigable to the town by act of parliament. Coals, timber, and
bats, ^re the principal commodities brought by the stream (or
the supply of this place and its neighbourhood.

• This is a lai^e and increasing town : its situation on the noith
f oad has contributed to augment its population ; and the continual
passage of travellers has added to its prosperity and wealth. An
extensive market, and four annual fairs, have still further increased

• its affluence, by furnishing opportunity for the ready disposal of
its prmiuctions ; and also, from the expenditure of the influx of
Strangers, which the above privileges have drawn within its circle.

Of its ancient history no particulars have come to our know^
ledge. The origin of but very few towns can be distingubhed
with certainty ; the meagre records of our forefathers having
mostly perished in the numerous revolutions, and storms of civil
war, which the malignant passions of the human heart have, at
times, brought upon our country. Neither is the increase of re-
sidences always noted. Hamlets become villages, and villages
become towns, by insensible degrees. By slow and gradual opera-
tion, the conveniences of man are multiplied ; nor are we regard-
All of the change, till the intermediate stages are passed, and
the mind, by a sudden effort, recurs to the distant period, when

certain

BEDFORDSHIRE.

n things were not in existence, which sre now congregated
us, and wonders at the greatness of the ftltcrations.
The parish includes the small humlets of Stbatton and
^LM£. The number of inhabitants is cumputed at 1700, The
burch, an iincicnt and strong edifice, was built in the year l'?30.
!- wss formerly collegiate, and scvei'ul stalls &re still remaining,
ling of exempt jurisdiction, the parishioners are free tenants,
d ail have equal rights to any of the scats. Thus should it ever
. In the sight of God, all distinctions arc te\'elled, but those
fcich derive origin from the opposite states of vice and virtue,
) incompetent to dclcrniine lo ivhom the meed is due ;
ibordinatc relations, therefore, should ever be laid aside in
ices consecrated to religious worship, wherein the presence of
I IXsity, who acknowledges no supremacy but in goodness, is
)fq>oaed to be more immediately dillused. For this privilege,
, the inhabitants are con&traJned to repair or rebuild the
when necessary, fh^ vicarage is worth about 1501, per

In this town are two charity schools a Baptist jneeling-house,
:ni good inns for the accommodation of travellers, and a
manufactory of white thread laco and ed^ng. The King is
of the manor.
The most considerable alteration that Biggleswade has under- .
ne of late years, arose from a terrible fire, which raged for
me hours with unceasing fury. One hundred and fifty divelling-
nses were laid in ashes, besides corn-chambers, malt-houses,
b. all in the centre of the town, round the market-place. The
mages were estimated at 34,0001. Biggleswade is indebted for
I present improved appearance to this accident; the houses
iving been mostly rebuilt with brick, and agreeable to the
odem taste.

On the 25th of February, 1792, a smart shock of an earlh-
lake was felt here, about lialf past eight in the morning, h
itcd several seconds, threw down some old houses, and much
umed the inhabitants, thougli no lives were lost. The shock
ks felt Dorthwards as far as Doncaster, whence it extended to

the

ff BSDFORDSHIRS.

the sea-coast of Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. At a short distance
south-east of Biggleswade, is the numor of Stratton. In June,
1770, as a Carter was ploughing the land pretty deep, he discovered
a yellow earthen pot, containing 300 gold coins of Henry the
Sixth. They were a little larger than a half crown ; yet being
thin, were not equal by 20 grains to the weight of a guinea. Oo
the front was represented a ship, with the king in armour holding
^ sword and a shield, on which were France and England quar-
terly ; on the side of the ship was a lion passant between two fleurs
4e lis. On the reverse was a cross, between four lions pa»ant|
crowned.

POTTON

Is a flourishing market-town of considerable extent, and plea**
santly situated on the borders of the county adjoining Cambridge-
shire. It is well watered by small rivulets ; though tlie «oil M
ione distance around is sandy and barren. It is a singular cir*
cumstance, that this town was burnt on the same day as the §ire
above mentioned broke out at Biggleswade. Tents w>ere erected
lor the inhabitants in the neighbouring fields, under which they
iremained till better residences could be prepared for their recep*
tion.

SUTTON

Was the ancient seat and royalty of the famous John of Gauntt
Duke of Lancaster, third soa of Edward the Third. It was
bequeathed to the family of Sir IjLoger Burgoy ne by the followii^
laconic will, said to be still preserved in the arches' court, Doc*
tors Commons.

I, John of Gaunt,
Do give and do grant
Unto Roger Burgoy ne,
And the Heirs of his Loin,
Both Sutton and Potton
Until the World's rotten.

These

BEDFORDStllRE.

" I

Thew rhyming grants appear to have been very common in
former ages, many specimens of thi* mode of transfer being stiU
extant. It is well for the bnnorabli; fraternity of latvyers, that
the practice did not continue. The brevity of the style would
have prevented litigation ; and the meaning of the donors, thus
unincumbered with words, would have been too clear to have
generated contention.

The celebrated Bishop SttlUngHeet wa.t inducted to this living >
in the year l657, and here he wrote his " Originen Sacrse, or, A
Rational Account of the Grounds and Necessity of revealed Re-
Bgion:" a work esteemed as one of the best defences of revelation

SANDY, OR SALNDV,

' AsotJT three miles north of Biggleswade, is a place of great
Intlquit)-, being one of the two cities which Ptolemy describes as
^uated in the country of the Cftttteuchtani. Verulam (now St.
Albans) was the other. Salanx h said to have been also a sta-
tion of the Romnns; and this is rendered very probable from vast
qiiantities of coins, imd other antiquities, found in the vicinity.
Mr. Aubre>- mentions glass urns, and one of red earth, like coral,
with an inscription, that were di^co^ ered here ; and aUo some
Coins found in Chesler-Jirld, a ground which adjoins the town, and
' U occupied by gardeners. At a small distance is Ga lly Hill,
iSie Roman fortress. About thirty acres are here enclosed with
t rampart and a ditch, 1'hc form is irregular, being adapted to
the summit of the hill, in the fortifying of which. Nature has her-
ixM been liberal. The north and cast make two sides of a square;
the west juis out towards the river Ivcl, which flows by the town.
In the middle b a tumulus; and at some distance, across a valley,
it a place called Camr'i Camp. Several acres at Gally Hill
have been broken, and thrown into small hillocks; by some sup-
posed to be the remains of the foundations of a cily, but more
probably occasioned by digging for stone, to make the road from
llie ford of the Ivel Iq Bedford.

78 BEDFORDSHIRE*

The parish of Sandy has been long famous for the production
of great quantities of vegetables ; the whole country, for many
miles round, being supplied with garden-stuff from this quarter.
Above 150 acres of land ar& constantly cultivated with the minor
articles of human subsistence, such as carrots, turnips, parsnips,
French beans, cucumbers, &c. The soil is a rich, loose, black
sand, 2 or 3 feet in depth ; protected from adverse winds by se-
veral considerable hills. Carrots, at a medium, yield 200 bushels
an acre j potatoes, 250 ; pai-snips about half the latter numberi
and other.articles in proportion.

PODINGTON, OR PUDDINGTON,

Is nearly thirteen miles nortk-west of Bedford, on the border*
of Northamptonshire. The parish extends about three miles from
north to south, and one mile and a half from east to west, - It
comprises two villages, or hamlets ; that of Puddington, and that
of Hinwick. The former contains about 50 houses, and 500
inhabitants } the latter about 20 houses, and 110 inhabitants. •

The church is dedicated to Saint Mary. It is built of stone*
covered with lead, and consists of a body and two dsles,. In
the north aisle is a neat monument in memory of Major Genend
John livesay, who died the 23d of February, in the year 1717.

In the reign of Henry the Eighth, the vicar of Puddington was
hung at Wobum, with the abbot of that monastery, for with*
standing the measures of the imperious Monarch. The parish
is inclosed. Under the bill of Inclosure, 151 acres and 7 poles
were allowed to the vicar in lieu of tythes. Most of the women
^nd children are employed in making bone and thread lace : in
some instances this business appears to be too sedentary for the
preservation of health. The interest of lOOl. was given, by the
late Dr. James Johnson, to purchase books of devotion for the
use of the poor of this and three other parishes. The manor*
house is now in the occupation of a farmer. Near it, on the
north, a rising ground, surrounded with a double entrenchment,
appears to have been the site of a nobler structure.

The

BEDTORDSMIRI. 7$

lir. "Hie "parish contttins two large mansions. One of them, called

, 'Hinwick-Hall, has a haudsomc front on the east, built by

-General Livesay, 97 feet long, with a porch 12 feet square,

carrieil up in a turret, in which is a clock: over it is a neat,

iiglit, airy cupola, with a bell: each side of the porch, and end

of the house, is faced witii a Corinthian pilaster. Within it is &

portrait of Gener.il Livesay, a fiill length of Lady Clarges, by

Vandydc, and some good fruit and (lower pieces. The other

belongs to the Orlebar family, and was built about 1710. Tha

'library conljiins a good collection of books, particularly in the

French and Italian languages, the Cartulary of the Canons-

I Aahby, and anoiher rnlating to Wimmington, Over the hail-door,

I on the east front, are the Oriebar arms impaling Astrey's. The

t of ibe sovith front is ornamented with the figure of

[ Diana in ber carriage, drawn by stags, &c.

A small brook rises just above the village, over which is a stone
I bridge, built by Mr. Orlebur in 1779. consisting of 3 arche».
[ 'A small wood in ihe parish is called Guorong, a name so like
[ Guorongus, a Qritish chicnaiii, under Vortigern, that if there
■roborating circumstances, it would induce one to
I wppose this might be pnrt of his possessions.

e country for some miles round may be denominated hilly;
I yet all the hills are genlle, regular ascents, the tops of which
I BTO clay, or wood-land, with clay under a shallow staple, The
I Unds about the town are firm and tertile; barren at a distance,
I and somewhat boggy in the vallies. They contain a mixture of
I wood, arable, pasture, and meadow; the latter comparatively
I ktnall, lying only on a tittle brook. The arable is varied at tlie
\ pleasure of the ictiaiit, who is nevertheless supposed to keep near
f one third part laid down with gra« seeds. Very little of the
I pasture or wold remains ; and even some of the old ent^ure is
Converted into tillage. The produce is wheat, barley, peas,
. Dkts, a few turnips, cole-seed, tares, rye-grass, trefoil, and
I broad clover.

Between Puddington and Hinwick, is a pond, called Spring
Pond, nhich has something of a petrifying quality. The clav.

80 BSDrOftDSRIKB.

or dirt, remctved in clearing the spring-head, has become, when
exposed to the air, concreted, rough, and white, something like
petrified moss. Several stone and clay pits are in the neigB«
tourhood, and a considerable pit of sandy gravel. In many
of these pits are stones, that seemingly consist of very small
shells. Ostroitcs and Belemnitse are common. In the gravel-
pit one of the turbinitae has been found.

The most thriving timber is the oak, the ash, and the ^a.
Beech trees have been planted, but with little success. CaoMy
birds are frequently seen in the hedges : they are supposed to
liave escaped £rom an aviary, and to have bred in tJie woodt.

MISCELLANEOUS.

In almost every account of Bedfordshire that has yet beoi
published, the authors have inserted a variety of particulars rela-
tive to the Isatis Ttftctoriay or Woad; formerly, universally
cultivated in this county ; but itoxr, as we can assure our readen,
on the very respectable authority of the Reverend Thomas Orie-
bar Marsh,* (Vicar of Stevington, near Bedford, and f . L. 5,)
is not to be found in it ! With the tincture of this plant, the ancient
Britons used to stain their bodies; in order, according to the
repeated assertions of historians, to render themselves frightful to
their enemies when in battle. That this was the sole reason of th«
practice, however, may, in our opinion, be successfully contro-
verted. Cocsar, indeed, observes, that the custom of the Britons, in
dying their bodies with woad, gave tliem a horrible appearance in
war; yet, as he has no where said, that its use was restricted to the
season of tumult and bloodshed ; and as both Pliny and Pompo*
nius M^ mention the practice, without regarding it as of dis-
tinct application, we are as fully warranted in attributing it to

the

* This gentleman has been long employed in making collectioin on that mI**
ject for a Nataral History of this Connty ; and is daily adding to hif itock.
of information. Where diligent research is united with accurate invettigs^
tion, « work u nearly perfca as human wisdom will admit, is the amired
result.

BED?ORD«HtBE, 81

tiis operation of difTerent causes, as to the effect of one only,
Whetlicr our forefathers stained their bodies with the juice oF~<-
woad as a preparation for religious solemDities, as a means of '|
striking their foea with terror, or for the purpose of ornumenti '
we believe it to be impossible to ascertain,

Waisingham relates a singular circumstance concerning t
river Ouse, which, on the l*t of January, in the year 1399, su
denly ceased lo flow between the villages of SneUon and Hai^ I
raid, near Bedford, leaving its channel so bare of water, tliatjR
people walked at the bottom of it for full three miles. Varioos I
explications have been given of this remarkable phcenomenon; J
but the opinion that it was a portent of the divisions and dn#/
vrars, which the claims of the rival houses of York and Lancaster!
shortly atlerwards occasioned, seems to have obtained moitl
credit in that age of superstitious credulity. Dr. Childrey eo^l
deavours to account for it, by supposing that the stream upwar4'V
was congealed by a sudden frost; yet very little consideration -
enables us to determine that this conjecture is untenable. Wh^ j
the real cause was, cannot, jterhaps, at this distance of lime, b^ 1
discovered; but as the reasons hitherto assigned have proved uoi |
■atisfactory, we shall otfer a suggestion that appears to us n:
deserving of belief: Might not the earth have sunk in some part ^
of the channel, and admitted the waters into an extensive cavity
which having lilted, the riser assumed its course, and again flowed
within its accustomed bed?

In the twenty-eighth volume of the Transactions of the Royat I
Society, Dr. S/arr relates that his grandfather, who was a gcntle>
man of this county, had all l^is teelli strong and lirm at the age
of 80, and that within five years afterwards he had a new set.
Mis hair olno, which had grown white about this time, became
much darker; and he remained in good health and strength lo the
hundredth year of his age, and even then died in consequence of
fullness of blood. The!>e singular events the doctor attributes to
ilie freijufiit use of s^ugar, of wliich h'n relation was a great taier.

Vol. I. G Mr,

iM BEnroRDsniKE.

Mr. Nicholas Rowe, a poet Bnd dramatist, was born Ett
Little Beckford, in this couniy, in the ye«r l673. His fomily
possessed a considemble estate in Devonshire; the revenue of
which appears to have been fully e(]ual to the ambition uf his an-
cestors, htit not to ihe wi-shes of his father, who wns the first that
quilled his paternal acres to practise an art of profit: his profes>
sion was the law, of which he was made sergeant. HJs snn
Nicholas was educated at Wesiminstcr, under the famous Dr.
-Busby, who never sutlcrcd the talents of his pupils to lie idle. At
the age of 16 ho was entered a student of the Middle Temple,
where, though he attained considerable proficiency in the Inw, by
st\idyin^ it as " B system of rational government and impnniiil
justice, rather than a series of precedents or collection of posi-
tive precepts," he paid more attention 10 the muses, and at
length abandoned the courts altogether. His first production wia
the Ambiiiotts Slcptaolhn; which was received with so much fa-
vor, that his hours from that time were wholly devoted lo elegant
literature. He wrote several tragedies, and one comeily : of the
former, the Fair Penttmt and Jane Share are in most e-itimalion;
in ihe latter (the liiter) he failed so ignominiously, that it has not
been inserted in any edition of his works. Dr. Johnson termed
his translation of Latan't Phanalia one of the greatest productions
of English poetry ; and asserts, that it will be more esteemed as
it is more read. Rowe was willing to improve his fortune by
Other arts than poetry. He held several places under government]
and, on the accession ol George Ihe First, was made Poet Ijtureati
and promoted to several distinguished otlices. He died in the
year 1718, and was buried in Westminster Abbey.

1! tlOUGH (he dolitieallon of British aud Roman geography lias
frequenllji engageil ihc attcution and applicitlion of aniiquaries,
yet the task of fully establishing the situation of the contested
featured, scctns to have been reserved for the superior discriraino-
tioti of Mf. ^^'hitakc^, by whose labours tlie scattered rays of

' liifbnnatioii on this' subject have hc'eii drawn into one fol;^a; and
the lig^t thus concent rated, has Wen no less happily than skil-
ililly used to dispul the gloom which enwrapt tiie geographical
Vecords of furmer ages.

' BetiksiUbe, this gcnilenian Intbrms us, in Wi»JShtory of
JUdnckaitr, vias itihabiled by three nations or tribes, respectively
termed Attreb'ates, BiBRocESor R^emt, uid SecoNTiACt.
ITiis account is eoii-ub orated by the derivations ^ven by Mr.
Owen in the second volume of the Cambrian lUgisUr, by which
it appears, thnt the name of e-ach nation had its origin from
^« general stsite or cliaractenslical appearance of the country in
mmedi4te vicinity of their abodes,

lus, the AtTREB.iTES, who occupied nearly the whole of
the western parts of Berkshire, from the Lodden on the south-
east, the curving hanks of the Thame? on the north-west and
Wbst, and the hills of East-Ilsley, Lainborn, and Ashbury,
An'thesouth,'woulU be so denominated from the roots Allrcv, and

[ Jtlrcvad; words descriptive of habitations bordering on a river,
on woods, or upon any range of hills, as was the case with the
residences of these people, Tlie Bibroces, who occupied the
south-enstem part of the county, from the lx)dden on the west
to the Thames on the east, would derive that appellation from
Pau Brig, or their compounds, signifying, ft district covered with
hifta of woot!, briikes, or thickets. And lastly, tlie Segostiaci,
who inhiibilial a portion of the south of Berkshire, about the
U ■-• uppe

84 behksiiihe.

upper bnnks of the Kennct, and the north of Hampshire, were so
railed from Isgnxnl, Isgteeata'g, or Ugmaitog, words implying
the lower Garut, and dcscriprive of open downs.

When the Romuns divided their conquests into provinces, this
county was included iu the first division, named Britannia
Prima. During the heptarchy, if constituled partof the king'
dom of the ^Vest Saxons ; and thus continued (ill the whole island,
was incorporated into one sovereignly, and named Enolakd,

In the Saxon chronicles this county is termed Btrrocs/ilrt, whicb
/Issrr Mnnenm derive* from the Jiame of a wood abounding ia
box; the remains of which, according to the opinion of Mr.
Wise," were grubbed up so lately as 65 years since, at a place
named Box-Grove, in the parish of Sulham, near Reading,

The shape of Berks has been Compared, though somewhat
fantastically, to that of a sandal or slipper, but it certainly it
loo irregular to admit of comparison. On the north lie the
shires of Oxford and Buckingham -, on the east it is bounded by
Surry ; on the south by Hampshire ; and on the west by Wilt-
shire. The north-western comer just unites with a part of
Gloucestershire. In the estimation of its si/e there is much
variation. Some have computed its lei^h at 39 miles, and its
brendth at 29; olher? at 42 by 29; but more accurately, its
gifHiest extent, from ea.st to north-west, may be estimated at
48 miles; and its breadth, in the widest part from north to south,
about 25; though little more than 6 in the narrowest, near Read-
ing. Its circumference is between 130 and 140 miles. It con-
tains about 530,000 acres, 20 hundreds, 12 market-towns, 140
parishes, 62 vicarages, 671 villages, about l6,9O0 houses, and
nearly 110,000 inhabitants.

The western and middle parts arc commonly regarded as the
most fertile. The eastern is principally occupied by Windsor
Forest and its appendages, and contains a very great proportion
of uncultivated ground, A range of chalk hills, entering tho
Cuunly from Oxfordshire, crosses it in a westerly direction, and
bounds the celebrated Fa/e of It'Aite Horu. The face of tho
county b agreeably varied with gentle eminences, and the scenery

partakes
• S« Lcuei to Dr. Mcid on Mine Sctlaturc Anliquitiei.

BBRKSHtRE.

I
I

partakes of that peculiar character wLich wHlert on the pic-
turesque have termed beautiful. The soil is, generally, fruitful ;
and the cultivated parls produce abundance of excellent grain,
particularly bailey, of which vast quantities are made into mall,
and sent to the metropolis. On ihc grass lands in the vale are
many good dairy farms, with the refuse of which numerous swine
are fettened. The county is well stocked with timber, particu-
larly with oak and beech in the western parts, and in Windsor
Forest, which also abounds with wild fowl and other game.

The open and common fields of Berkshire are estimated at half
the extent of the county; and the proportion of waste lands is
also very great. The forest of Windsor, Maidenhead -thicket,
Tylchursl-heath, Wick ham-heath, and the numerous commons
that are to be found in all directions, contain, without exaggera-
tion, upwards of 40,000 acres; which, in thi
uncultivated state, are of very little benefit t

But very few manufactures are carried on
majority of the people being employed in the
agriculture. In the meadows i
of the laboring class procure

iir present wild and
the community,
in this county, the
various branches of
icinity of Newbury, many
1 livelihood by digging peat for

iuel, the ashes of which constitute a good manure, and are reser-
ved to meliorate, and strew upon, the lan<l, '

The rivers of Berkshire are the TJiames, the Kennet, the Lam-
1>oni, the Ock, and the Loddcn. The first of these, the mtytilic
Thames, is umloubtedly the most eminent of British streams.
The splendid and ever-varied scenery that decorates its shores,
the magnificent residences by which its current glides, and the
animating theatres of British heroism and liberty through which it
flows, arc all calculated to awaken those emotions of the heart
which lead to reflection and to virtue. Tlie genius of the poet
lias been often exercised in weaving wreaths for the god who is
fabled to preside over the waves of this celebrated river; but no
chaplet that we have seen, however the roses of Pama»sus may
have been entwined to increase its luxuriance, is equal to the
lenii/i/W pklare which Mr. Pope has presented us with in his
Windiior Forest.

From

86 BBRKSHIRB.

From his oozy bed
Old father Thames advanc'd his rev'rend head;
His tresses dropp'd with dews, and o'er the stream
His shining horns difF^is'd a golden gleam :
Grav'd on his um appeared the moon, that guides,
His swelling waters, and alternate tides ;
The figur'd streams in waves of silver roU'd,
And on her banks Augusta, rob*d in gold ;
Around his throne the sea-bom brothers stood.
Who swell with tributary urns his flood :
First the fam'd authors of his ancient name,
The winding Isis and the fruitful Thame;
. . The Kqinet swift, for stiver eels renown'd;
The Lodden slow, with verdant aiders crown'd ;
Cole, whose dark streams his flow'ry islands Isve;
And clialky Wey, that rolls a milky wave;
The blue transparent Vandalis appears;
The gulphy Lee his sedgy tresses rears;
And suUen Mole, that hides his diving flood ;
And silent Darent, stain*d with Danish blood.

The name of this river has occasioned many altercations ; and
though the general opinion has long been, that it does not receiMI
the appellation of Thames till after its union with the Thame of
Oxfordshire, yet this is evidently founded in error ; for the fof*
mer word is found- in several charters granted to the Abbey of
Malmsbury, and likewise in some old deeds belonging to Crick-
lade, both of which places are in Wiltshire. But the most
decisive proof is contained in a charter granted to the abbot
Aldheiro, where particular mention is made of certain landn upon
the east part of the river, " Cujus vocabulum Temis juxta vadum
qui appellatur Summerford;*' i. e. whose name is Thames, near tha
ford called Summerford ; and as this place is in Wiltshire, it is
manifest that the river was named Temisy or TemSy in the upper-
most part of its course; and long before its junction with the
Thame. This evidence, which is inserted on the authority of
Mr. Gough, was unknown to Camden, who imagines the term to
be a compound, and has given considerable extracts in his Britan*^
nia from a fiuiciful poem, entitled the Marriage of the Tham|l
and Is 1 89 of which he is said to be the author. From this picotfy

the

tbe idea of iho possuge above quolud from I'upe is evidently
derived.

The whole of the northern side of Berks is bounded by the
beautiful windings of [liia river, wiiich divides it from Oxford-
shire and Buckinghamshire. It enters the county ubout a mile
south of Uechlade; and in its progress waters the scveml towns
•f Abingdon, VVuilingford, Reading, Henley, Maidenhead, Wind-
sor, &c. and having received the lioinsge of various tributary
tireains, soon aftervtsrds flows between tlie candnes of Surry
and Middlesex.

The Kennet enter* the county at Hungerford, and passing

Newbury, laves the rich meadows on the south with divided

ftrcams; then flowing through Reading, gently wind* among the

•djacent meadows, and unites it!> waters with the Thames. " It

is remarkable," says Mr. Goiigh, " that at Cavcrsham, those wells,

h«twaea which and the Thames the Kennet has its course, The

and fall with the Thames, not with the Kennet. Hence it is

Argued, that tiie bed of the Thames is much lower than that of

(he Kennet, and detaches its springs under the bed of the latter."

The Lambokh riaea near the town of that name, and, after

a short course of eleven miles, falls into the Kennet about one

I qnile below Newbury. This small river has been much celebrated

[ for a circumstance that seems to have no foundation in truth ; wc

mean the story of its bring always fuller in summer than in win-

The various ways of accounting for this /iuicirrf peculiarity,

I Jbrcii>Iy remind us of the question concerning the weight of a bbI-

l mon, which Charles the Second is said to have proposed to the

I'-Buyal Society,* Some very ingenious hypotheses haie been

G * inveniud

" WhM ii thi [eaion," iiid ihe wiUy Monirch, ■' why i dead ulmon ii

1 1 living one?" When ihe day arrived on whicli the qucillon wai to

K Mlved, the King himKlC allendcd to hear the aigunieiiu. A lurne^dluer.

I tMtioa wu read, in which much physical, and mure mtiiphyiiia!, imaniiig

L -Mm diipliyed, U> account for the urll knBai phznomenon. But ccjual ingenu.

|,hy WM exeiCid to iuvilidttc thou irgutoenti, and eUabliih inothei hypDtheiii

u of the firK. Thii wai again rctuled in 1u Cum, and the debate waxed

I, without any indicationi being g;iven that they were rvei likely (o came

invcnteJ to explain the cause of its waten failing in the winter
season j and one of them is particularly curious. It lias been
supposed that the hill whence the water issues, contains a large
cavity, with a duct, in the form of a syphon or crane, and
that the rain which falls in the autumn or winter season,
having filled this extensive reservoir, the water continues to How
through the duct, till it sinks beneath that foot of the eyphon
which is inserted in the cavity, and that the current then ceases
till its exhausted source is replenished by the rains. If the sub-
ject was of sufficient importance to be interesting, it might be
asked, why, if this hypothesis be true, the bed of the river is not
entirety emptied every time the water sinks benealh the foot of the
syphon ? Where a position is controverted by one argument, it
would be childish to offer more. The fact is, (he current of the
river is nearly the same at all times; and the reason why the stream
docs not materially increase in winter, seems to arise from the
paucity of neighbouring eminences, by which alone the current
would be swelled from the torrents poured into its bosom.

The OcK derives its source from the Vale of White Horee,
near Kingston -Li sie, and flowing by the side of Abingdon, unites
its waters with the Thames.

The LoDDEN rises near Bagahot-rails, and passing Oakingham,
receives several small streams from the easte^'n extremity of the
county, and empties itseif into the Thames near Wargrave,

Berkshire is in the diocese of Salisbury, in the Oxford circuit.
It sends nine members to parUamcnt ; \'n. two for the shire ; two
for ItcEuling, two for Wallingford, two for New Windsor, and one
for Abingdon; pays eleven parts of the Land-tax, and supplies
the militia with 56o men. The Lent assizes, and the Epiphany

county

to ■ concluslDn. At Ungih, a gnve member, who h>A hhherla ukm no tlnrc in
tht diipuW, aroie, and addrcMcd die preiident with ihrse wordi: "Sir, I Ug
leive humbly to doubt the fact; and, theicFore, I move thai all further irgib
menti on ihii head be tuipondrd until the Fact ihall be proved to the utiifadion
otthli society, by ihe undoubted evidence of clear and latiifaclor/ expcrimenl."
" Aye," uid the King, tmiling, " had you begun with ih'u, you might hava
uved youricivu a great deal of trouble ; but it the tune time you would hiv*
deprived me of > luxurioui euuiuinmcac."

county sessions, are constantly held at Reading; the Eaater
sessions at Newbury; the Summer asaiies at Abingdon; and the
Michsclinas sesuons alternately at Abingdon and Reading.

READING,

The principal town in this county, is supposed by Camden lo
bave derived its name from the great quantities of fern that grew
JD its neighbourhood, and in the language of the ancient BntonSi
was called Redyng. This etymology gathers strength from the
circumstance of the town being generally denominated Reddi/uge
U the time when the above celebrated antiquary compiled his
Britamua, The modern way of spelling the word is evidently
corrupt.

Tlie origin of this town is shrouded in the mist which the lapse
of ages has generated to infdld the records of history. Whether
it was a British settlement previous to the Roman invasion, or
ivhetber it then only was first inhabited, the meagre pages of an-
tiquity are insuHicient to enable us to determine. Dr. Salmon,
indeed, has asserted, that it is the Spen<e of the Itinerary ; and,
to establish his opinion, refers to its situation at the confluence of
two rivers, and also to its distance from the other stations, which,
according to his system, perfectly agree with the numbers of
Antoninus. The statements of this gentleman, however, cannot
always be depended on, unless they arc strengthened by the argu-
ments of other writers ; for he commenced his undertaking with
two fundamental errors, which ruined and perverted his whole
design.* " First, that the itinerary miles were the same as the
modern computed miles, and that they had remained invariably
the same from the Roman times to the present. Second, that
the great roads, so visibly strait, and raised all over the kingdom,
had no connection with the routes of the itinerary." Tlie con-
cluMons duduced from such incorrect data can never be deserving
of implicit conlidence,

* See Inlioduction lo Cough'i Cuodai.

Thb

j)0 BERKSHIRE.

This town hns certainly claims to high antiquity, though itf
«iri^in is unknown. It was inhabited by the Saxons many yean
bet'oro the pirdticul Danes began to pour out the vial of destnio-
tion upon the fertil? plains of Britain : and it appears clearly, from
the observations prefixed by llelirne to Hrownc Willis's Account of
the Mitred Abbevs, + that two Castles have at diiTerent times been
crectetl and destroyed in this neighbourhood, though neither walb
nor fortifications are now remaining. The first stood on the spot
where King HeniT founded the abbey, part of which was con*
$tructed with the ruins of the fortress. Asser Menevensis relatei,
that the Danes, who were in possession of the town, retreated -(•
this castle after their defeat at Englcfield, by Ethelwulf. The
other was raised by the usurper Stephen, and demolished by the
orders of his successor, Henr^' the Second. Where it wai ntnated
is uncertain; though the term Castle-Street seems to imply that
it was near the ^xit thu> denominated ; yet, as mere entrench-
ments of earth have fi-cquently received the apellations of Castle-
Hill, and Castle-Field, this cannot be regarded as satisiactory.

Klfrida, the mother-in-law of I'Alward the Martyr, as he wai
styled by the comtesy of the monks, founded several religiO'
houses* in expiation of the base murder of that prince, who
SQCriticiNl from her desire of placing her own son Ethelred on the
throne. Among these monuments of her guilt and penitence,
was a nunnery in this town, built on the spot that is now occupied
by St. Mar\*s church. The nunnery was supprrsed on the ^i-
dowment o( the abbey, and it^ revenues appropriated to the uae
of that foundation.

The abbey was a very magniiicent struct ure. founded by Heniy
the iMi^t, for the maintenance of 000 Renedictine monks, and
the refreshment of ira\ellers. The building was begun in the
}ear ir^l, and compleated in UC<S. The charter recites, that
•♦ The ablH'\s t»f Rttuiiti^^ ChcUrv^ and lAO^uin^hr. having been
d&^str^\\cd for their sins, and (heir )v>M^sions fallen into the hands
of the lait\, the Kiiu;, with the ad\ioe of his prelates, 6lc, had
built a new uu»nasier\ at Keaduii:, and endowed it with the

monasteries

* trUndi Coilccunca, Vol. VI.

SKRKsniRi:. 91

Bf6lfati1«riM of Reading, CAfUiy, and Leomiaittr, togcthcT with

■if appurtenances of woods, fields, pastures, &c, with exemp-

n rrofli all tolls, clut'tcs, cu«toras, and contributions." Besides

' privileges, the abbot and monks were invested with the

pwcr of trying criminals, and entrusted, generally, with iha

■ation of the pence in tire town and neighbourhood. In re-

r these extensive grants, the monks, by an obligation in

irter, were to provide the poor ami all travellers with

f entertainment. WiUiam of Matnabury testifies, thst

e Ifttter part of their duty wns so well performed, that there was

IVways more expended upon straogcn* than upon themselves.

^QUs was a mitred abbey ;* or, in other words, the abbot had the

ivilegc of sitting in parliament.

> Tht above gifts were not the whole that the munificent piety of

e Monarch bestowed on ihe abbey of Reading. By some means,

4iich history hoj n^Iccted to register, he became possessed of

ehand of St. James the apostle; or, at least, bud been so in-

d to helieve by the subtlety of the monks. This sacred rarity

Jie deposited in tbc monastery, which, according to one assertion,

I KCorded in the Munatlkoii, he founded" prie gauJiu maitus."-

^^eary the Second confirmed ihu grants of alt the preceding be-

k&ctors,

TTjough the monaster)- was finished in the year 1 125, it docs

It appear that the church was consecrated till ll63, orllG-^,

n the famous Archbishop Becket performed that ceremony in

! presrnce of the King and many of the nobility. On that

occasion, ttie lutelars of the abbey were increased by the addi-

n of the Holy Trinity and St. James the apostle. The church

\t said to have been a spacious fabric, in the form of a cios;,

in the centre, but without aisles.

•TIWCUHOIT

ofiuni

moaing .

parli«in«i

c,9.hye„of,h.

jeign ol Hmiy

iheTh

d. Il V.U

irtrmtdt ihc ptitiice of ou

KiHgi to «U up

1* many abbou ind pr

on u the

thought

iQpei, JO ihjl lii

» IH >Dd ramc

Umuj

raMinu

inb« lumn

oned, Thii iDo

t .1 length bang

lound iDconrc

iuil, Ol

t numb*

wii ttmi

cd, ind Ihc priv>

cge bciioviwd OQ

panicuUi plac

.only.

The ibbou thui i

enified were tiid

Co be MiiKto.

ucd till Ihc diiialuli

By the deed of Hugh, thfl eighth abbot, we ore Infonned Dial (h»
obligation to relieve the poor,* tontainejin the foundation charter,
was not always fulfilk-d. The abbot obi^rves, that, "WhercAs
King Henry had appointed all persons to be entertained tliere, yet
he fotind that the same was performed in decent manner lowarda
the rich, but not according to the King's intention towards the
poor, which miscarriage he, as steward to that noble chanty, wai
resolved to correct." For this reason he built an hospital with>
out the abbey gate, that those persona who were not admitted to
the upper house might be there entertained. To this hospital he
gave the church of St. Laurence for ever, for the maintenance of
13 poor persons in diet, clothes, and other necessaries, and
allowed sufficient for the support of 13 others out of the usual
alms, " This," Grote observes in his Antiquities, " though done
under the specious pretence of charity, was, in ftll likelihood,
only a method taken to exclude the meaner persona from the

Ubie

• From ihe following itory relate J in Fi,!!er'3 ChuKh HUtory, it would leem
ihitthc devoliciu of [he nbbort were neither cxcluiivdy directed la the feeding
of the poor, nor to the obtaining of EpLritual gncc.

Henry the Eighth having been hunting in Windior Foreit, ilrutk down iboul
dinner time to the abbey of Reading, where, diiguUing himiilE at one of Ihc
King"! guard, he wai invited to the ahbot'j table. Httc, hit tooth being whet-
ted by the keen air of the foreK, he fed to lustily on a ilr loin of beef, that hti
vigorous appetite wu oolJced by the master of the ceremonies. " Well f»re thy
bean," quolh the abbot. " I would give a himdred pounds if I could feed
10 heartily on beef ai thou doll. Alai! my wctlt and iqueaiic itonuch will
hardly digest the wing of a rabbit or chicken." The Monarch, having lalisfieil
fail paUte, thanked the abbot for hi> good cheer, and departed undiacovered.
Some weeki sFierwards the abbot waj arrtiied, conveyed to London, lent to
(he Tower, and allowed no food (or leveral days but bread and water. Thii
ireaimenl, together with hii featt for the lonicquence of the King'i diipkuun,
•oon removed the efficu of repletion, and at lul, when a >ir loin wai one day
placed before him, he eat ai freely ai a (amiihed ploughman. When he had
finiihed hii meal, the King, who had b«n a hidden ipectator, burjt from hit
concealment. " My lord," laid the laughing Monarch, ■'preiently depwityoar
hnndretl pieces in gold, or else no going hence all the dayi of your life. I have
been the physician to cure your ifutazit iioimuh! and now, ai I deserve, do.
mandmyfee for lo doing," The ibbol, knowing that argument wn of no
ivail with the itera Harry, piid the money, md tctumcd home, rejoicing that
he hid ocaped so euily.

BERKSHIRE. SS

tebl* of the abbey, which was often frequented by traveUers of

(he better sort." This conjecture seems to be well founiled; for

the prelates and nobility were too hatigbCy to admit of that genc-

auocialioti with the lower classes, which the conditions of the

iblishment must otherwise have occasioned.

This abbey was the burial-place of many illustrious persons.

The body of the founder, who died near Rouen, in Normandy,

in the year 1135, was embalmed, brought to England, and here

deposited ; bui his heart, eyes, tongue, brains, and boweUi

interred beneath a handsome monument in the church of

Dame at Rouen. Sandfurd asserts, that when the monas-

ivas converted into a royal palace at the dissolution, the

of the Monarch were disturbed, and thrown out. Thii

ition, which never obtained general belief, was supposed, by

antiquaries, to be entirely refuted in the year 1787, when

an ancient coffin was found in a vault on digging the fouiidatioa

of the county goal, wliich has lately been erected on the site of

the abbey. Henry the First is said to have been buried tn a

bide; ajid as the collin contained (he remains of a slipper,

a piece of brass, it was at once conjured into the depositary

wlierein the monarch's body had been laid. With what sleiider

materials does Credulity erect her temples !

History has particularized two councils that were held here.
One in the reign of John, by Pandulph, the Pope's legate, when
the abbot was appointed u delegate for promulgating the sentence
ef excommunication against the barons who opposed the King's
assumption of arbitrary power. The other in the tiane of Edward
the First, by Archbishop Pcckham. In the refectory (84 feet
long by 4S feet wide) the parliament, assembled in the 31st of
Henry the Sixth, is supposed lo have been held. .

The annual revenues of llie abbey at the period of the dissolu-
tion were valued at 1P3S1. 14s. 3d. a proof tiiat its possessions
were hardly inferior to any in England. Hugh Farringdon. the
31st, and last abbot, was attainted of high treason, for refusing
lo deliver up his abbey to the visitors; and in the month of
Fovembcr, 1539, was, tot^ether witli two of his monks, named
and Onion, hanged, drawn and quartered at Reading.

94 BBHCSHIRE,

Thift extensive building appears to have occupied a circuxn-'
ference of nearly half a mile ; but nothing remains except frag-
ments of massive walls, composed of flint and gravel, and a gate*
house. The depredations of time, and the more destructive
^ower of superstition and bigotry, have levelled its glories with
^e dust. The walls are eight feet thick in some parts, and were
formerly cased with stone ) but this has been long removed. Hie
hospital for the poor knights at Windsor was built soon after the
Reformation with some of the ruins ; and many large maase^
several of them as much as two team of horses could draw^ were
carried away by the late General Conway, to erect that slingolar
bridge in his park, which is thrown across the high road leading
from Henley to Walgrave. ' ■ '

Ausgerus, or Aucherius, the second abbot^ founded •'bouse
for poor lepers near the church. This was dedicated to Mmty
Magdalen, and governed by regulations admirably adapted to^the
preservation of good order. If any person was engaged in. dii*
pute, and neglected to obey the third monition of the master to
hold his peace, he was deprived for that day of every Wnd ^
food but bread and water. He who gave the lie was subjected
to the same punishment, with the addition of some humiliatiBg
circumstances : if he continued sullen, or received his castigatkm
impatiently^ it was to be repeated another day; and should he
afterwards persevere in his obstinacy, the benefit of the charity
was to be denied him for forty days. A blow was immediate
expulsion ; and none were to go abroad, or into the laundres!^s
house, without a companion.

Besides these foundations, there were several other religious
houses in this town ; particularly a priory, now used as a Bride^
wellj the west window of which still remains an elegant monu-
ment of the arts at a remote period ; and a convent for nuns in
Castle-Street, which at the dissolution wad given by Henry th<
Eighth to the corpoi*ation, who disposed of it to the county for a
prison. Since the erection of the new gaol, this building has
been taken down, and a Mctliodist meeting house raised on the
jnme spot.

Reading

SEnKSllIRS. p5

RiADiVo •ii siCuRtod t>a two small eminences) nliOM gentle

I Idedjvitics fa.ti into a jiietuant vkI«, through which the brenrhes
of the Kennel flow calmly till tlicy unite with the Thames at the

[ "festremity of the town. The surrounding country is agreeably
AversiAed with an inlemiixture of hiJI and dale, wood and water;

[ ;Bnd enlivened with a number of elegant seats. The prospect
Jrom the Forbery, a beautiful outwork, on the north-cast side
of thetnwn, is very exteniivo, commanding a line view over aeon-
•iderable part of Oxfordshire.

' The corporation, according to the elioiWr of Charles ilie
Second, consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, and
ms many burgesses, from whom the vncancies in the list of alder-
men on supplied. The manor of the town was titled by Jamn
the First on Prince Charlos, his second ton, afterwards King;
biU il i* now vested in the corporation, who possess a very ample
jurisdiction, and hold four quarter sessions yearly for the punish-
ment of great offences, as well as a court every Wednesday for
the consideration of smaller crimes. Tliis borough has sent
members to parliament ever since tlie'^Sd of Edward the First.

I Ilie ri^t of election is in the inhabitants paying scot and lot;
the number of voters is somewhat more than 600. On a ^neral
dcciion, the nomination of members for the county is ut Reading ;
but if the un»uccessful candidate demands a poll, the election ii
held at Abingdon.

The bouse* are estimated at about 2000, and are mostly built
with brick. The streets have been paved, and the exjK'nces
defrayed by a uiiall tax, levied on the inhabitants by act of par-
liament obtiuned in the year 1785. Some of them are very nar-
row and inconvenit^ni, Tiie inhabitants are computed at upwards
of 10,000, being tradesmen, farmen, agricultural laborers,
and mannfaclurers, but chiefly the latter. The town was for- -
merly celebrated for the extent of its clothing manufactories, but
these, from a variety of causes, have ^Uen to decay. Tit»
principal circumstance by which this trade was ruined, was
undoubtedly intended to promote and estaljlish it. V/c allude to
the Iqacy of Mr. John Kendiick, who, in the year l634,
betiueiitlicd the sum of 7jOOI. to the town, for the purpose of

building

96 BERKSHIRE.

building a house for (he employment of the poor in the woollen
manufacture, and sujiplytng them . with the materials necessary
for carryii^ on the business.

"Hiis charity, insti^ad of bting nppli.cd agreeable to the will of
the deceased, for the relief and encouragement of the indigent,
was perverted to the benefit of the great clothiers, who beii^
either related to the donor, or connected with the corporation,
kept the money in tlicir own hands, and by that means were able
to undersell the lesser manufacturers. The latter were obliged, in
consequence, to make their cloths of an inferior ijuality, that
they might be enabled to obtain subsistence, by selling them at
(he same low prices, at which they were afforded by those penoas
who had illegally secured the use of the boquest to themselves.
By this conduct the credit of the town received a shock, wth
respect to the woollen trade, from which it never recovered ; and
scarce a vestige of Ibe manufactory is now remaining, that but
two centuries ago furnished employment for the majority of itf
people.

The ruin of an established business is seldom effected on a snd'
den; and the causes thut lead to its destruction are generallj'
obvious to the enlightened portion of the community. Many of
the inhabitants were convinced, that the gradual decay of the
trade arose from the misapplicaiion of the fund of the charity,
and presented a petition to Charles the First in council, praying,
that his Majesly would consider of the best means of preserving
the remainder for the use of the town, generally, and not permit
it any longer to be squandered on merci'nary individuals. This
petiiion was referred to the determination of Archbishop Laud,
who, being a native of the place, was supposed to be more inti-
mately acquainted with its true interests. The prelate decreed,
that the housu which had been erected for tlie manufactory, and
is now called the Oracle, should bo preserved for the accom-
modation of poor manufacturers as nearly as possible in confor-
mity with the donor's will. That is lo say, the preference was
to be given to those who were in the woollen line; or, in default
of workmen in that branch, the poorer cUs>es engaged in other

business

BERKSHIRE. 97

isineas were to be admitted to a participation of the charity.

! remainder of the money, amounting to about 400Ol. he

rdcred to be laid out in the purchase of estates, the rents of

,1 should, from time to time, be lent on good security to

yr young begmnen, clothiers in the firat instance: Each person

iracore pounds for ten years without interest ; and

t any time the rents should he sufficient, the loan was to be

jed to " lOOl. or even 200l, a. man, and no more :" but it

not appear that any lai^gor sum than 801. has yet been lent

e person.

chouse is at present occupied by sacking manufacturers,
ul-dath weavers, pin-raakcrs, &c. who arc allowed the use of
e building gratis. But the complaint is still made, of those who
D the house being able to undersell all of the same trade who
business in other parts of the town.
s the above donation, Mr. Kendrick bequeathed 5001, to
ndiridedandleni to ten poor industrious clothiers, beingfreemen
uling, for the term of three years, without interest ; but no
. was to have the money a second time. If a sufficient
!r of clothiers could not be found to enjoy the benefit of
9 ch«rity, the money mti;ht then be lent to industrious Irades-
1 of any other description ; giving preference to those who em-
lyed the greatest number of poor persons.

I, like the preceding benefaction, lias been appropriated to
s very different from those which were intended to be effected
e donor- Either by the negligence or criminality of the ma-
, both the lime and condition were so much altered, that
! whole sum came into tlie possession of one person, who,
t 1718 or 1719, paid it to the chamberlain of the hall-re-
es, where it did not belong, ami where its application lias
een to purposes very distant from the intentions of Mr. Ken-
work published some years since, the managers of
is charity are said to be debtors in the sum of 18,4J91. 10s.
; income arising from tliese and the various other Ifgacies,
■ bequeathed or given to this town for charitable purposes,
mounts to upwards of IJO.OOOl. annually. A purticular enume-
1 1 ration

98 BERKSHIRE.

ration of the manner in which it ought to be applied, would oc-
cupy a space far beyond the limits which propriety compels us to
affix ; yet a brief sketch of the principal modes of application may
not be unacceptable.

Sir Thomas White, a native of this town, and lord mayor of
London in the year 1553, placed Reading the fourth in his list
of 24- cities and towns which were to receive 1041. in yearly rota-
tion for ever from lands vested in the corporation of Bristol. This
sum, as often as it is paid, is to be lent to four necessitous young
men, clothiers, 251. to each for ten years without interest. This
gentleman also founded a free grammar-school at Reading, with
two fellowships for boys educated therein, (being natives,) at St*
John's College, Oxford. This privilege was lately attempted to
be superseded in favor of the natives of other places boarded as
well as educated here, but the scheme was rendered abortive by
the active exertions of some of the inhabitants.

In l658 Mr. Richard Aldworth bequeathed 40001. to found «
blue-coat school, and maintain a master, lecturer, and 20 boys.
This has been encreased by various donations, and is now on ft
very respectable establishment, the funds being sufficient to inp^
port and educate from 30 to 40 children. Every Good Friday ^
three maid servants, who have lived in one service five yean, are
appointed by the corporation to draw lots in the council-chamber
for 20 nobles, the gift of Mr, John Blagrave ; and on the last
Monday in August, yearly, at the time of the nomination of the
mayor elect, three other maid servants, also, qualified and apA
pointed in the same manner, draw lots in the council-chamber
for 81. the gift of Mr. J. Dean and Mr. J. Richards. In addition
to these charities, there are several alms-houses in this town, and
numerous smaller donations for beneficial purposes.

Reading contains three churches; St. Mary's, St. Lawrence,
and St. Giles. The first is re^^rdcd as the most ancient, and is
generally admired for its tesselated tower. The latter church was
much damaged by the cannon of the Parliament's army, during
the time that the forces of Charles the First were here besieged
in the year l643. As this siege was one of the most remarkable

events

=^-v»'

E. ,99

•vcnU that ever ba[ipencd at this town, we shall insert a. short
sbsiract from the very particular account written by Mr. Cod-
rington in his Life of Robert, Eurl of Essex, and inserted in the
Marie iun Miscelluny.

About the middle uf April the Earlof Essex quilted his winter
garter;, find advanced lownrdx Oxford, tiiat he niight render
tfie garrison ol' Reading more secure, and cause thu King to de-
tach his forces to the place where the greatest danger appeared ;
>lltit suddenly wheeling about, he encamped before Reading, and
Wmmoned the governor to surrender. Colonel Ashlon, who cora-
,nded for the King, answered, that " He would keep the town,
*r starve and die in it." On this refusal, the Parliament's
■rmy, which had encamped on the west side, to prevent reinforce-
Snents entering the gHrrison from Oxford, began to entrench, and
approaches to the town, which was guarded with many
out-works, and defended by 3000 troops, well furnished
lAth aramunitioii and provision.
Causham, or Caversham-Hill, an eminence commanding the
had been strongly fortified by the King's forces : from this
nt they were driven by assault, and several batteries being nuscd
II it, the besiegers made their approaches with greater safety.
fndcr coi-er of the iirc of the ordnance planted on this hiil, they
jvaticed within half a muaket-shot of the works; but not with-
Bt interruptions from the garrison, who, by a display of the
lost determined resistance, endeavo\ired lo dtscunccrt the mea-
ues of their opponents. " The enemy had planted some ordnance
lit steeple, Wieving that from that height they might play upon
ar men with more advantage ; but our cannon were levelled
agunst it with such dexterity, that both cannoniers and cannon
were quickly borled under its ruins." At length many of the houses
having been destroyed, and the governor wounded in the head by
tile tail of bricks from a battered chimney, lie offered to surrender,*
H 2 provided

r. Codrin^n's accouni is in ihli piiticutar incnrmt. When the gover-
u wounded, ihe cummand devolved on Cnlunel Fielding, who wu ihe
n that luireudcicd the town, and for whitb ulion he wu iftcrwirdl

100 BERKSHIEE. #

provided his soldiers had permission to depart with all the honors
of war; but this was refused by the ELarl, who sent him word, that
he came for men, and not for the town only. While this was in agi-
tation, the Earl having received intelligence that the King,
Prince Rupert, and Prince Maurice, were on their advance
towards Reading for the relief of the town, dispatched a strong
party of dragoons, who surprised and routed part of the King's
forces at Dorchester, nearly seven miles from Oxford, and made
about 140 prisoners. Notwithstanding this loss, Charles per-
severed in his intention of raising the siege, and being advanced
to Wallingford, marched towards Reading with about nine regi-
ments of horse, an equal number of foot, and twelve pieces of
ordnance. On the approach of this army, the Earl ordered the
regiments of Lord Roberts and Colonel Barcley to be drawn forth
to dispute its progress. The conduct of Charles, on this occasion^
seems to have been extremely defective ; for though his whole
body of infantry were near, he only opposed the forces of the
Earl with two regiments of his own. The fight was fiercely begun
in the vicinity of Causham-Bridgc, and the shock of arms was
sustained by both parties with much spirit and resolution* At
the first charge Lord Roberts was absent* from his regiment ; but
hearing that they were engaged with the King's troops, he rode
up full speed, and, by his courage and example, greatly expedited
the gaining of the victory. In less than half an hour the royalists
were repulsed; and many of their men left dead upon the field :
their horse, also, which had descended into the plain to assist
the infantry, were beaten, and forced to retreat to^he hill whence
they had commenced their onset. After this defeat the King
returned to Wallingford, and the Earl proceeded with the treaty
for the surrender of the town, which was soon afterwards given
up on honorable conditions, the garrison being allowed to marck
away with their arms, ammunition; colours, &c. The fifth article
provided for the safety of the town, which was neither to be plun-
dered by the forces of the King, nor those of the Parliament.

Some of the entrenchments thrown up during this siege, which
the compass of ten days brought to a conclusion, may yet be

discerned

P&(»Tned in tbe quarter of the town that became the marc imroe-

iale theatre of operations: jet these are daily wearing away;

t-Vid the peaceful ploughshare wiU shortly obliterate the remaining

I vestiges of the biilwarlts iliat were raised amidst the din of arms,

(fUd the alarum uf war. Wiieo tlie town capitulated, that part '

f the abbey which the seige had not destroyed, is supjKised to

hive been blown up, or utlierwiee dismantled, by tiie pious zeal

t the &natics who composed the majority of the Parliament's

,- The alarm so universally promulgated through the nation at
e time of the re%-olution in 1688, concerning t!ie Irish troops
mployed by King James being engaged in a general massacre,
originated in this town, from the following ci re urns lance. A
^Mgiinent of Papists having been quartered on the inhabitants,
took advantage of the terror which their free living had occasioned,
and one Sunday thi'eatened to destroy all the people as they came
out of St. Mary's church. When King William came within a

• mile» of Reading, the magistrates sent to request his assistance,
e Monarch detached some Dutch troopers, on the -appearance
whom on the church steps, the Irish threw down (heir arms
i fled} but the alarm became geikeral, and the inhabitants of

Icli town were induced to believe the abodes of their neighboui's
! in flames. This circumstance was formerly dignified with

• title of Reading t'igAl, and a sum of money was allowed for
ging the bells on the 19th of December annually ; but this

torn haR been discontinued since 17!i8> a century having been
thought sufficient time to commemorate 30 inconsiderable a
transaction.

Reading has two markets weekly, ield on Wednesdays and
Saturdays. By the first the inhabitanU are supplied with fowls,
fish, and butchers' meat. The latter is chiefly for corn, about
50,000 quarters of which are sold annually. The three parishes
which comprize the town are supposed to contain about 3200
acres. The rent of the land is from 30s. to 40s. per acre. One
third of Ihe inhabitants arc supposed to dissent from the established
church. The various denominations have no less than six meeting-
[1 ;) houses :

102 BERKSHIRE.

houses : among them are Quakers, Baptists, Independants, and
Methodists. The town-hall is a neat building over the free-
school, in form of a parallelogram. In the council-chamber are the
pictures, in full length, of Sir Thomas White, Mr. John Kendrick,
and Archbishop I^ud; and also a portrait of Queen Elizabeth^
generally regarded as a good likeness.

Many of the laboring class of the community here, as in most
other towns, where their morals are depraved by indiscriminate as-
sociation, possess very little economy or foresight. It is not uncom-
mon for a healthy young fellow, who has ample means of sup-
porting himself and family by his own industry, to request the
parish to pay the midwife for his first child.* Weavers, who can
earn a comfortable livelihood, do not hesitate soliciting relief^ if a
temporary stagnation of business curtails their customary recetptSy
and reduces them to those difficulties which a little parsimony
might have obviated.

The river Kennet separates the town into two parts, and in its
passage forms several excellent wharfs. This river is navigable
westward to Newbury, Froxfield, &c. and when the Kennet and
Avon Canal is completed, a communication will then be opened
by the junction of those rivers from sea to sea. The principal
articles of exportation are timber, hoops, bark, wool, com,
malt, and fiour. Upwards of 20,000 sacks of the latter commodity
are sent to the metropolis annually. This flour is of the best
quality, the nature of the soil in the neighbourhood of the towB
being admirably adapted for the cultivation of the finer species
of wheat. The articles imported arc grocer}-, iron, deals, &c.
to a very great amount.

Tlie celebrated Willi^ Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury,
was born at an ancient house now standing in Broad-Street, in
this town. He was the son of an eminent clothier, and was sent
at an early age to the grammar school ; whence he was removed
to St. John's College, Oxford, of which he was elected fellow in
the year 1593. Here it seems his pertinacious temper began
to display itself, and he was generally regarded as a forward and

arrogant

* See Sir Fred. Eden's State of the Poor.

I tonst

|.«fN

arrogant young man. In l6oi he catered into orders; and shortly
afterwards excited the diiiplca^ure of Dr. Abbot, llie Vice Chan-
cellor, by bi:> apposition to the tenets of the Puritans, wliicli
about [lint time began tu have many supporter>i in the Uiiivcriiity.
His first preferment was to ihe jiviug of Stamford, in Northamp-
tonshire, in l607. The following veal' be obtained the advowson
.«f North Kilworth, in Leicestershire. He was uo sooner invested
these livii^, than he put the parsonage bouses in repair,
^ve l'^ poor persons a. regular allowance ; and the same
conduct he is said to have pursued during all his subsequent pre~
ferments. In itiiT he accumpunied King Jumes to Scotland, on
his iU'timed e.xpedilion for the purpose of uniting the two kiog-
donu into one' religious community: but the design of the
Monarch failed; and the laureb he expected to gather, were
anthered by the breath of contempt and obloquy.
■ As a detail of ihe honors which, at diflerent periods, were
Confcn«d on the Archbishop, would degrade this biographicaJ
■ketch to a mere register of preferments, we shall puss over the
intermediate space, and enter upon the year 16'30, when the
Vnivcrsity of Oxford elected him their chancellor; and it may
with Justice, that this venerable seat of learning never
and liberal patron. He enlarged and orna-
ited St. Jolin'a College, and erected the elegant building at the
the divinity school, founded an Arabic lecture, and pre-
the University with a large collection of coins and manu-
In 1633 he succeeded Arclibishop Abbot in the See of
iterhury, and instantly began his unpopular work of establish-
uniformity in religious worship. The regulations which he
leavoured to carry into effect, were not more illiberal thim
'rity of the restrictions caused many aliens
kingdom, to the great detriment of the manulac-

! Archbishop has been accused of a covert attachment to

y, though probably on insufficient evidence. That bis

1 bordered on infallibility is most true; yet his conference

li the Jceuit, Fisher, is a proof of hi^ general regard to the

H + doctrines

104 BKKKSRIEB.

doctrines of the church of England. The severe prosecutions that
were carried on in the Star Chamber a^nst Prynne, Bastwick,
and Burton y were chiefly through his instigation ; and his vindi-
cation of the proceedings of this chamber, as well as the rigoroni
measures pursued in the High-Commission Courts by his direc-
tion, fully demonstrate his love of arbitrary principles.

On the breaking out of the disturbances which afterwards
unhappily ripened into civil war, his palace at Lambetlr was
assaulted by the London apprentices ; but having obtained notice
of their intention, he previously retired to Whitehall, and by
that means avoided the fury of the rioters. In l640 lie wm
impeached by the House of Commons of high treason, and, it
Its request, committed by the Lords to the Tower: but Us
trial did not take place till three years afterwards, when his
defence was acknowledged to be satisfactory even by Prymie,
bis most virulent adversary. Though no chaige of treason could
be proved against him, his enemies had resolved on his destruction ;
and the Parliament, to conciliate the favor of the Scots, who
were his most determined foes, passed a bill of attainder, which
the Lords were compelled to confirm by the threats of the Eail
of Pembroke, and the clamours of those who had espoused his
opinions.

The Archbishop was beheaded on Tower-hill, the 10th .of
January, l644, in the seventy-first year of his age. His bcha*
viour on the scaffold was firm and dignified : and the composure
with which he resigned himself to his fate, proves that the d^ri-
vation of his interest in this subluni^ry world had ceased to
affect him.

William, of Reading, Archbishop of Bourdeaux in the
reign of Hpnry the Third; John Blagrave, an eminent
mathematician; and Sir John Holt, lord chief justice of
England, one of the greatest men the profession ever produced,
are among the number of those celebrated characters whose
talents have done honor to their birth-place, and whom the inhni*
bitants of this town are proud to rank with its most distinguished
natives.

tn tite vicinity of Reading, near a place ctdled CutHgrove-Lane,
15 E remarkable 3tra[um ol' oystcr-shelU, i-mbediieil i
sva snnil, at least twenty fathoms benenth the surface of a hilt.
This stratum Is from 12 to 24 inches in thickness. The shells are
inienni3Led wiih small teetli, apparently of lish, and are conti-
nued through the whole circumference of five or six acres of
ground. I'he foundation of the shells is a hard chalk : the
superincumbent matter consists of clay of ditfercnt descriptions,
fuller's earth, fine sand, and common earth, disposed at various
depths, and unequal in extent, hlany of the shells appear like
whole oysters, the valves being close shut ; yet their cavities con-
tain nothing but a little sand. The Delvge is the grand solver of
difficulties; and to this the pha^nomenon just mentioned has been
repeatedly ascribed; yet, however universally the waters may
have covered tlie earth, or, however the solid globe may have
dissolved beneath the tremendous conflict of rushing seas and
everw helming oceans, the subsiding of the buoyant atoms, whea
e of Deity hushed the tumultuous waves to silence, and

t liquid mass softly murmured its subjection, must have pro-
d effects very dissimilar from those now under consideration.
' llie descent of bodies would have been proportioned to their
specific gravities ; the heaviest would have been at the boitom,
and the others ranged according to their respective density ; but
this is not ihe case, and the true solution is yet undetermined.
The causes which operated to place these shells in this particular
(pot, are, perhaps, never to be completely ascertained. Nature's
phenomena are of difficult investigation: and the contracted
(pace to which the life of man is Uiiiitcd, is scarcely sufKcicnt to
enable him to register effects, much less to discover the ori^n
and springs of action. The difliculties which attend every
attempt to account for the disposition of the materials of which
the eaxth is composed, are perhaps insuperable to human genius,
i this truth should never deter us from striving to obtain

lowledge by deductions from credible data.

: already observed, that the quality of gravitation

rouid produce effects contrary to tlio^ic immediately before us ;

uud

106 BBKESHIEB.

and shall now proceed W state the o[Hiik>n which to u> miiiiii
most reasonable, respecting the manner in which the ^Ue were
thus deposited. We ima^ne that the island was once buried
in the ocean, and that the hills, which now adorn and diversify
its surface, were graduaUg formed by the action and reaclioB
of the tides, conjointly with the etiects of winds, waves and
tempests. If this conjecture should bo the truth, the dispon*
tion of the stratum in question may be easily accounted for on
general principles ; though the particular applications may al&MMt
vary to inanity.

Let u» suppose that the bed of chalk was the original bottom
of the sea, and that the oysters had chosen this spot for iMr
place of congregation; and that such a supposition is rcasonaUtti
th&beds of oysters existing on the coasts of Britain are sufficiaat
testimony. We know also, that by constant attrition, the waves
are surcharged wiih panicles of diHerenc substances ; these wt
may naturally conclude, at the mumeiits when (he ebb and flow
of the sea have induced a calm at tlie point where the dominiQa
of each has an end, descend by their own weight, and imper-
ceptibly form strata as distinct in quality, and various in esiteiit,
as the causes which operated in their formation. |

This Tegalar drposilion of the waters would admit of ligAt svb^
stances becoming the bases of iraricr ones, and tlierefore dOM^
not contradict the acknowledged laws of gravity ; for the matter
Jirtt pa-cipilated, could not change places with the atoms ttill
floating, without violence ; and even then tlic ell'ecis would only
be partial ; and exceptions, we all know, can never be admitted
to controvert a general rule. By the application of the^e argu-
ments, we may easily account for the oysters being embedded so
for below the summit of the hill. M'e have rather enlarged oui
observations on this occasion, as it will be necessary to menljon
phenomena of a similar description hereafter; and ono digression,
it was imngined, would preclude t3ie necessity of repetilion.

The country in the vicinity of Heading is embellished with
many elegant mansions; yet, as a particular description would
not correspond with our limits, wc must content ourselves with a

brief

BERKSIllKE, Ifilf

if sketch of the most remarkable. Nearly opposite the town,
the north bank of the Thames, in Oxfrirdshire, is Cavbh-

■at of Marsac, Esq. This estate originally

Iwlonged to tlie Craven family, but was aflerwards purchased by
General Cadogan, the friend and companion of the great Duke of
Marlborough, The house was erected bj* the Earl of Cadogan in
the reign of George the First; but was afterwards reduced; and
has a^ain been altered by the present proprietor. It is an elegant
building, with two handsome wings, situated on an eminence, that
commands a very extensive and diversified view of Berks and the
adjacent counties. On the fnint is a beautiful la\m, leading to the
river. The gardens are pleasingly laid out ) and the park, though
not large, includes every vtinety that cau regale the taste and
gratify the sight. In the old mansion, Anne of Denmark, the
Queen of James the First, was splendidly entertained by Lord
■les, when on her journey to Bath in l6l3. When Charles
tint was prisoner at Windsor, the Parliament, through the
■ediation of Getieral Fairfax, permitted him to visit Cavcrsham
lodge, where all his children who were in England then resided,
in the custody of the Earl of Northumberland.

In the hamlet of WoonLEV is a small but pleasing edifice,
to the Honorable Henry Addiiigton. The grounds
ve now laying out with taste; but the want of variety,
icb arises from its flat situation, will not admit of its being
with the superior class of buildings which abound ia
county.
About two miles west of Reading, in a beautiful woodland
countrj', is the sual of J. Blaorave. Esq. This is a handsome
r^ujar structure with wings, seated on a small eminence, near
^he Bath road, and screened from the north winds by thick
The grounds are composed of various shelving lawns,
agreeably diversified by groups and clumps of trees. The
park is famous for the production of fine venison.

WniTk Knioiits, the seat of the Marquis of Blandford, is
about two miles south-east of Reading. The house is a plain,
ihite building, situated near the centre of the grounds, which

_4he B

10^

are divided by an irregular sheet of water into pasture and ai&Me
lands. The borders of the lake are ornamented with the pendant
branches of the drooping willow; and the lawns, which slope
gently to the waters, arc agreeably disposed, and adorned with
renerablc groves of oak and poplar. An avenue of fine elms
leads to the gate at the entrance of the park from Reading; and
the path thence to the house is skirted on one side by tall elms,
ftnd by poplars on the other. Various openings have been cut in
the plantations which arc interspersed through the groundi, that
the eye might be enabled to rangi' tree and uninterrupled over
tte surrounding country, whose luxuriant and well cullivalcd
meads allay the tntnult of the wilder feelings, and divert the ima-
gination to thoughts of Elyiium, where peace and happiuest
arc embosomed in the midst of {ilc-nty. . White Kiiig/iln wt
of the earliest examples of the I-'ermr Ornir ; and it still
tinues to be a beautiful Bpecimcn of the mixture of the agtMb
able with the useful; where Nature, improved by the hand
art, smiles in the radiance of her most pleasing altire.
a broad green terrace, id one part of the grounds,
is a Dne view of Reading, with all its concourse of
tions, and tumultuous throngs. Caversliam hous« and
and the groves of Shiplake, bound the prospect in front; and
(he high point of the hill of Suiniizig, witli the scarcely discern-
ible Thames gliding at its foot, closes the picture on the east.
The back ground is composed oi the distant hills of Oxford-
shire and Berks.

The village of Sdnniko is plcasanlly situated on an easy
ascent on the banks of the Thames, and, according to the remark
of Camden, was formerly the Se<^ of a bishop, wlioise diocese in-
cluded the counties of Berks and Wiltshire. Leland asserts, that
no less than nine bishops succeEsi\ely tilled this See; the last of
whom (Herman) removed it to Siierborne, whence it was tran-
slated to Salisbury. The antiquity of the place is strongly marked
by the sepulchral monuments and ancient inscriptions within the
church. On one monument are ilie fullowiug pletuing lines, to
the 'memory of two in&nt children of the fumilv of Rich, who lof^
raided dk this spot. '] h«

IgtMbM

nd«fiV

tbawfl
sbilV^I

~ BERKSHIRE. |09

The father's air, the mother's look,
The sportive smile, and pretty joke,
The rosy lip's sweet babbling grace^
The beauties of the mind and face,
And all the charms of infant souls,
This tomb within its bosom holds.

The bridge is a plain modern structure of brick, well adapted
for convenience and durability. Near it is an elegant Mansion,
the seat of Charles Fysh Palmer, Esq. The river Thames glides
beneath the elevated spot on which the house is situated, and
flowing through a beautiful valley, is seen winding between the
distant hills, and giving additional lustre to the neighbouring
country, which is extremely pleasing, and in many places pic-
turesque.

The road from Reading to Newbury passes through the villages
of Theal, VVoolhampton, and Thatcham. The approach to the
first is through a beautiful woodland country, highly enriched by
cultivation, and occasionally enlivened by glimpses of the Kennet,
which glides through beautiful meadows on the south. Beyond
Theal the country assumes a bolder appearance; and on the
right, a chain of hills, finely tufted with wood, presents itself,
and gradually increases as we proceed towards Woolhampton.
This is a small place, composed of good houses, pleasingly situated
beneath the south side of the range of eminences just mentioned.
Beyond this village a large tract of meadow land occupies the val-
ley on the left ; and the same chain of hills constantly changing
its features, and varying its appearance, continues on the
right. As we advance, the road ascends, and is more inclosed
as we approach Thatcham, a small neat place, chiefly composed
of one street, with some good houses, and a small church. Hence
the road winds along unequal ground, till we approach' within two
miles of Newbury, where it becomes more level and inclosed; ana
the country on both sides the river is bounded by woody hills,
declining towards the vale, which is interspersed with farms, and
rendered fertile by the streams of the Kennet, that meander

through its bosom.

NE#BURY.

IM BKRKSHiaK.

KEWBURY.

This totrn is situated in a fertile plain, watered by the Kennet,
which ciwtses the town near the centre. Its ancient name was
Newbir, which it appears to have received Tram its relation to the
old town of Spine, (The Spinse of the Romans,) from wkidi it
it only separated by a brook, and from whose ruins it arose.

Thoa|^ the term Newbuty implies a modem borough, yet it
evidently had existence before the Norman invasioit, for it wm
then bestowed by the Conqueror on Emulp/i dc Hesdin, Earl of
PSTChe, whose great grandson Thomas, being killed at the siege
of Lincoln, the Bishop of Chalons, his heir, 30ld it to William
Manhftll, F.arl of Pembroke, in whose family it continued till the
reign of Henry the Third, when Roger Bigod, the possessor,
lott'it, with his otlier possessions, through obstinacy. In the
thirtieth yeur of Edward the Firsi, it relumed two members to
parliament ; and in the eleventh of Edward the Third, it was
k]so represented by three persons, in a great council, held on
account of trade at Westmin«>ter,

The principal streets of Newbury are disposed nearly in the
shape of the Roman Y, the angles branching off from the market-
place; uid the foot of the letter being formed by the village of
Speenhamtand : they are spacious, and well paved. The houses
are about 550 in number, mostly of brick. The population may
be estimated at 3800, being chiefly employed in trade, l^e
church is a plain Gothic stone edifice, supposed to have been
built in the reign of Henry the Seventii, This structure westward
from the pulpit, was raised, together with the tower, at the
charge of the tkmous John Winschomb, generally called Jack <f
Newbury. The following words, which appear to refer to this
gentleman, are inscribed upon a braxs plate near the chancel:

Of your Charitc pray for the

Soule of JohH Umatioiiod, alias

Wiuchom, and Alice, his Wife,

Which John died the 1 5th day of

^ February, An. Dom. 1S1<}.

BERKSIIIRE.

Ill

^Ert town was fbnnerly celebrated for itAxtensive manufaclo-
) of wool1i?n cloth, which furiki^heiJ the inhabitants with
I •mployraent for several centuries ; yet scarcely any thing but
aerge is now made here, the clothing trade having been carried
to the more western parts of the kingdom. In the reigns of
Henry the Seventh and Eighth, this business was particularly
L flourishing at Newbury ; and the above Smalicood, or WaucAomb,
I<1b reported to have been the greatest clothier in EnghtfS during
I the early part of the reign of the latter Monarch, who, according
to tradition, was, together with Queen Catherine, and many of
the nubility, splendidly entertained at Mr. Winschomb's manufac-
tory.

The history of this gentleman, who was a native of Newbury,
reloped by the marvellous, that it is almost impossible to
Kdiitinguish the truth from falsehood. Me appears, to have been a
l*!!^ spirited youth, fond of company ; yet too much actuated by
tgood sense to suffer his love of conviviality to embrute his reason.
V Having been bred a clorhier. it was his good fortune to be entrust-
with the direciion »nd management of an extensive manufaC'
f Wre belonging to a widow, which he executed so much to her
' satisfaction, that her sensations of gratitude for his conduct,

combining with her prepossessioi
her to slight the attentions of n
kis service with her estates as w
Being thus raised to aftluenci
him many friends; and the

n fevourof his person, induced
c wealthy suitors, and reward
well as person.

ce, his generous temper procured
ivity of his manners, and attention
to the general interests of the trade, which, by his exertions, was
considerably improved, augmented their number. With the
increase of acquaintance his business also increased, and several

»kundred persons were employed in the different branches of his
ttsnulactore. Upwards of 100 looms he is reported to have con-
■tantly used for the weaving «f broad cloth only. His public
■pirit appears to have cc)uatled his pri^-ate benefactions ; for, on
the breaking out of the war with the Scuts, he Joined the King's
army witli a 100 of his men, all armed and clothed at his own
^K expeiice. Hi) death w.vi greatly lamented; and his memory is

L _A

lis BSKKSHIRE.

still respected by tin inhabitants of this town, which was the
scene of his fame, and the witness of his actions. His manufac-
tory is now divided into tenements, respectively occupied as a
bookseller's, a hair dresser's, and an inn; the latter being
honored with the sign of Jack of Newbur}*. The town-hall is a
hanAomc structure, built over the market-place, near thej
bridge which crosses the Kennet. When this bridge waS rebuilt,
in the y|fr 1770, a leaden seal of Pope Boniface the Ninth was
found, together with a pix, some knives of a singular make, some
spurs, and a few coins, from Henry the First to William the
Third. The market is very large, and, from its extensive busi-
ness,, is supposed to be nearly equal to Devizes or Warminster ia
Wilts.* On*the banks of the river are several mills, which supply
the cities of London and Bristol with great quantities of flour.
The town abounds with dissenters, and contains five meeting-
houses, for the various denominations of 'Quakers, Bi^ptists» Inde-

pendants, Methodists, and Presbyterians.

When Newbur}' was first incorporated, is unknown ; but in the
charter granted by Queen Elizabeth, May 26th, 1596, it is
called, *' An ancient and populous borough, which had enjoyed
divers liberties, franchises, immunities, and pre-eminences, by
the charters of many of her ancestors and predecessors^ the Kings
of England." The corporation consists of a mayor, high steward*
recorder, 6 aldermen, and 2\ capital burgesses. The mayor if
annually chosen on St. Matthew's Day. Mr.

* Newbury has time out of mind been justly considered a most excdknt
com-market; and still retains some customs, that would be of great use, were
they observed In all other markets. Here the grain is pitched in open market,
and ingenuously oifeTed to the public in small as well as large quantities. That
defeating as much as possible the artifices of monopolizers, and holding out to
the industrious, lowly hand, the chief nourisher of his existence, at afiuf
market price.

Another good custom is also observed here; that the farmer, let him tell much
or little, has his money paid on the delivery of the article; thus verifying the
old observation on Newbury market, that

The farmer may take back
His money in his sack.

Pearce*s Apkulturtd Survty of Berks.

th<

BERKSHtRE. 113

Mr. Kendrick, the gentleman mentioned in our account of
Reading, bcciueathcd 40001. to this town, for Ihe purchase of a
house and garden for the employment of the poor in the tlolhing
buaincM, and providing them with necessary maleriah. Whether
the operation of this charity was as delrimcnial to the trade of
Newbury, as its counterpart was to that of Reading, we have not
been able to learn; though, from the general decay of ^c clothing
branch in this plfi.ci.<, the affirmative seems highly promble, Rve
kundred pounds were abo bequeaihcd by the same person, to be
Tent, without interest, in equal portion?, to ten poor clothiera for
three ycai-s; or. in default of workmen in that business, toother
tradesmen, being freemen.

The number of atms-houaes on different foundations amounts to
■ixty. One of these, called St, Bartholomew's Hospital, i* ascribed
to King John, but with what accuracy we cannot determine.
The original endowment has been increased by various benefac-
tiuns. Several legacies have been given and settled for the re-
pairs of the church at different times, and by ditferent persons.
Adjoining to this edifice there is a charity-school for the educa-
tion of 44 boys. The trade of the town is supposed to have
^creased of late yeare, by the meatis of the navigable canal from
Steading, which imports goods to the amount of 20,000 tons
' yearly.

During the dreadful contest between Charles the First and his
Parliament, Newbury became remarkable for being the scene of
action in two succeeding years. The first battle wu fought on a
caramon, called the Wash, in the year l643: the other in the
fields between Newbury, Specn, and Shaw, in the year l6+4;
the King commanding his army, on both days, in person.

Previous to the firat engagement the hopes of the Royalists were

their height. Their advantage in Mtuation was evident, and
4 their horse were superior in number to the enemy. The Parlia-
meni's army was commanded by Robert, Earl of Essex, who hav-
ing advanced to Hungerford from Gloucester, found the countrif
•o destitute of provision, that he resolved to march to Newbury,
far the purpote of obtaining a supply; but the King's forces had

Vol. 1. I taken

4
I

•^p

114 BERRSHIKE.

token possession of the town, two hours before the Earl could

Befdro the battle, the royal army was in good condition, well
supplied with necessaries, and enabled to obtain whatever succours
th«y desired from the garrisons of Wallingford and Oxford. The
opposing forces, on the coiiirary, had been hairasscd by long
marches; and from the lime that Prince Rupert attacked Ihem
the precefing day on Auburn Chase, had remained on their arms,
withimt either victuals or refreshment. The advantage of the
Royalists was so apparent, that it was resolved, according to the
relation of Lord Clarendon, overnight, not to engage in battle, hot
upon such grounds as should give an assurance of victory; but
this statement is controverted by Mr. Codringlon, who asserts,
that the King sent a challenge to the Lord-general to gtve him
bottle in the morning.

Early on the 20th of September the Earl of Essex drew up hb
men in the most excellent order on Bigg's-Hill, about a mile from
the town, and placing his ordnance in the most advantageoiu
positions, awaited the attack of the King's farces; large bodies
of whom were soon Eo far involved by the precipitate conduct of
some young officers, whose warmth induced them to undervalue
the courage of their opponents, that it became necessary to
hazard a general engagement.

The battle was disputed OQ both sides with equal intrepidity,
and various success. The Parliament's cavalry were several
times dispetMd by the vigor of the Royalists; but no charge,
however determined, could make an impression on the infantry.
Prince Rupert himself led on a choice body of horse, hut was
unable lo penetrate the hedge of pikes that opposed his progress.
The approach of night was welcome to both parties, and the
battle ceased without any decisive advantage being obtained by
either.

The next morning, the Earl, finding the situation of his army
nut worse than lie had reason to expect, and beii^ obliged by
necessity to seek some place where his troops miglit procure both
refreshment and rest, begun his march towards Reading, aud

behkshire. Ill

passed Newbury, into which the forces of the King had with*
drawn. When the army had advauced about four miles on the
road, and just as they had entered into the narrow lanes, they
perceived that their rear was followed by a strong parly of the
King's horse, nhosc sudden appctiruncc threw ihcm into consi*
deiable diwrder. Prince Rupert, profiting by llie confusion,
Mned tte hedges with a thousand inus(]ueteers ; and m&ny of the
Eaxl's soldiers were killed, and others made prisoners. In the
end, the Prince was forced to retreat, having had no less than
|)uoc horses shot under bun during the skirmish.

In this battle the King sustained an irrepamble loss in the
^|ut^ of more than twenty officers of distinguished abilities.
f}ie Emt\ of Sunderland, the F.arl of Caernar<.'on, and Lord
ItKvunt Falkland, were among the number of the slain. Th«
llU'l of Caernarvon had so little apprehension of his approaching
that he was seen to ride through Newbury with his sword
iMn, ftiul ^(oeusely lake measure of a gate, through which hs
>p0Md bringing Kssex a' a prisoner, to know whether it was
Ipde enough for the Parljament general's horns.* llie same
who noticed tliis action, soon afterwards saw his body
lown across a horse like that of a calf.

Ill the second biUtle, t!ic King's army being very inferior in
Itnbers, he resolved to act on the defensive; and with this
Eention placed his forces to the best advantage in the neighbour-
of Speen, Shaw, Sec. On Sunday morning, about day-
ik, on tlie twenty-seventh of October, part of fho army of
Xarl nf Manchester, who commanded for the Parliam<?nl,
;eoded the hill, and crossing the river at Shaw, surprised
guard which should have kept the pass near the house, but
repulsed with great loss by Sir Bernard Astley. The battle
commenced, continued, witliout much advantage being
by either army, till about three in the afternoon, when
iler, with his own forces, and those that had been commanded
mihe £acl of J^sex, who w>is tlten ill at Southarapton, fell
1 -i upon

■ The latl of tiix wu the Hmbind of the Lidy Ffancti Howiid.

Il6 BEKKRIIISE.

upon the position at Speen, and witli little diflicuKy crossed the
river; the officer who had been appointcil to guard the passage,
being Killed into a false security from the Apparent difficulty of
the ondcrtaking. This occurrence gave a decided superiority to
the troops of the Parliament, who immediately possessed them-
selves of liie village of Speen, and of all the ordnance that had
been there planted.

The battle now raged with great fury; one party being invigo-
rated with the hopes of m^ing the Monarch prisoner; the other,
determined to defend their Sovereign, anil retrieve the losses which
neglect and oversight had occasioned. The King was at one tirae
in very great danjjer, being in the middle of a field between
Speen and Newbury, of which the enemy had partly obtained
possession, but were driven from it by a vigorous charge made by
the Queen's regiment of horse, led on by Sir John Cansfield.
Shaw-house, the King's head quarters, and the posts surrounding
it, were at the same time attacked by the Earl of Manchester in
person, with 1200 horse, and 3000 foot, who advanced with
great resolution, singing psalms, and animating each other to the
highest degree of fanatical enthusiasm. Their exertions, how-
ever, were ineti'cctiial ; and their most enei^etic efforts served
only to make the repulse more fatal ; it being attended with the
loss of upwards of 500 men. Night at length arrived, and the
direful conflict ceased.

Notwithstanding the defeat of the enemy in this assault, the
evenU of tig day had demonstrated their genera! superiority; and
the King, being deprived of pan of his artillery, and knowing
that irretrievable ruin would be the consequence of being sur-
rounded in his present situation, retired under the cannon of
Donninglon Caslle, where holding a council with the Prince of
Wales, and the Lords who had attended him during the engagement,
it was determined to retreat to Wallingfonl. The King himself,
hearing that Prince Itupeit was arrived at Bath, precipitately left
the field, accompanied by 300 horse, and hastened to that city-
After this disgraceful flight, it was discovered that the King's
army was not in that disabled state which hod been conceived;

th<

&e tioopa postc<l in the suburbs ai Speen having resohilely kept
ib«r gwiund; while Ibat part of the Parliament's forces uhich
had been so roughly Irfiitcd at Shaw, though reintijrccil by a
P^Mfong L>ody of horse, had been a second timtt ro|>til3i.-d svith lusa.
HBiis was the last action between the armies; for about ten at
^^nght, aJI the horse, foot, and artillery, in conipKance with the
orders of the King, drew forth theii' several guards on the heath
about Donningtoo Castle, where, having left mcnt of their wound-
ed, and all their ordnance, ammunition, and carriages, within
the walls of the fortress, they marched to Wullingford without
interruption. The bodies of the slain were interred in a large pit
near the tower of Newburj' church. Those who were killed in
the tirtt engngcnjcnt, were deposited beneath two tumuli near
the Geld of battle. Many vestiges of these sanguinary cuntlicts
bave at different limes been found in thu surrounding country ;
tid three skeletons were lately discovered, together with some
m-balls, in digging gravel near Spccn.
The valley in the viciiiity of Newbury is ferlilined by the
9 of the Kcnnet, and produces a luxuriant pasture: but
be most peculiar circumstance attending it, ts the vast quantity
'f peat found in the centre of the vale on each side the river.
Fbii substance is formed of rotten and decayed vegetables, being
Vcotnposition of wood ; branches, twigs, leaves, and roots of trees,
'Intermixed with grass, straw, plants, and weeds. Its consistence
iinrie$ with its situation, some of it being soft and smooth, and
''^tnue hard and firm; the difference, perhaps, being occasioned
.'ty the varieties of tijes of which it is composed. ^Thc extent
lOf the peat in this valley is from one quarter to three quarters of
■»mile in breadth, and sixteen miles in length, and possibly much
Ifcnher, as the intermission may be only accidental.

The true peai, so called when free from extraneous matter, is
' feund at various depths, from one to eight feet below the surface
. rf the ground : the thickness is also different, being from one to
-ten feet: The understratum is generally gravel. Within the peat
( peat numbers of trees arc discovered lying irregularly on each
' 9tber : the nearer these are to the surface of the ground, the less
1 3 sound

118 BE&Ksnnifl;

sound is the wood. The twigs at the bottom are sooMtiflite iA
firm, as to resist the sharp spade usually employed. These trtH
are of various species : some of them are oaks, alders, willowy
and firs : the others are so much decayed that their kinds cannAt
be distinguished. The small roots are generally perished; yet
their remains are sufficient to prove, that the trees, however they
were thus buried, were neither felled by the axe, nor cut dowll
with the saw ; as the marks in either of those cases must have
been visible. No acorns are found in the peat, though the cond
of the fir tree frequently are, and also a great number of basal*
nut-shells.

The peat is cut with a peculiar kind of spade, in pieces ccmi-
monly called long squares : these are about three inches and a
half broad every way, and four feet in length, if the depth of
the peat will admit. When the pieces arc cut, they are laid in
regular order on the ground, to be dried by the sun and wind;
and as the moisture evaporates, are turned, and broken into
smaller lengths. When perfectly dry, it is sold for firing, or
burnt into ashes on the spot for manure, being exceedingly good
both for arable and grass lands. The price of the peat is about
ten shillings a load ; and the ashes from five-pence to seven-penoa
a bushel. The peat lies continually in water, and is cut through
without much difficulty.

. '' Some years ago an urn, of a light brown color, and laige
enough to contain above a gallon, was found in the tnte peat,
about cighMor ten feet from the river in Speen Moor. It lay
about four feet below the level of the ground, and about a foot
within the peat, and over it was raised an artificial hill, about
eight feet higher than the neighbouring ground : as the whole
hill consisted of both peat and meadow land mixed together, it
plainly appeared that the peat was older than the urn, and that the
person who raised the hill, must first have dug a lai^ hole in the
peat to bury the urn, and then formed the hill of the peat and
meadow-ground mixed together. Round the hill where die um
lay, were several semicircular ridges, with trenches between

them:

BKHKSHIKE.

119

them : the extremities of the semicircles were bounded by Ibe lino
of the river."* Various other things have bet-u fouud uiiibeddud
in the peat, but so irregularly dispersed, as to render it cvideot
that their situation was the elTect of accident only. The horns,
lieads, and bones of several kinds of deer, the lioms of the unle-
lope, the heads and tusks of boars, the heads of beavers, hunian
bones, &c. have at liiUferent times been discovered in it. These
things ai-e generally found at the bottom of the peat, a circiim-
gttincc which warrants the supposition that its ^avclly bod was
once the surbce of the earth, aJid that the peat itself, however
produced, must have arisen from the later operations of nature.

SPEEN.

Ttt E small village of Spcen is situated on a gentle (iscent, about
B mile north~west of Newbury. It is a place of coiisiilcrablc an-
tiquity, deriving its name from the Roman Spina;, which is sup-
posed to have been situated in Speen-field, between the village
and SpocnhAm-knd, which branching from this town, seems ta
connect iiself with Newbury,

This station, though mentioned by Antoninus, was apparejitly
of but inconsiderable importiuice, an it does not appear that any
mtiquilies, or remains of buildings, Lave been discovered in its
vicinity ; nor is the place yet of any magnitude, the number
ef houses hardly amounting to 200. Its relation to Newbury is
the chief circumstance that renders it deserving notice. Near the
church is a well, called Our Lady's Well, where there is a very
distinct and clear echo. U repeats but oncej but at such inter-
vats of time, and so loud, that a word of four or live syllablea
b heard as articulately from the echo, as from the voice of the
person pronuuiicing it. The sums given to the parish for chari-
table uses, amount to about 6ol. a year.

' Nearly opposite this village, on the rnwth, is Dotf nisgtok-
I Chove, the residence of William Brunimell, Esq, The house

I a handsome modern building, pleasantly seated on a sloping
I 4 lawn,

> Philosophical Tniuac

Vol. so.

1?0 BERKSHIRE.

lawn, under a ridge of woody hills, which screens it from the
north, and fonns a rich back-ground, where the ruined towers of
Donnington Castle breaking the line of trees, enliven the scenery,
and contribute to form a prospect of much beauty. The Lam*
bom stream, enlarged into a handsome piece of water, flows
through the vale in front of the house, having its banks decorated
with clumps of trees, and its bosom studded with islands, where
the feathered visitants of the lake reside in full security. Near
the lower extremity the water is crossed by a wooden bridge of
one arch, the outlet of the stream being judiciously hidden by
plantations. The contracted channel at the upper end is con-
cealed by stately groves, so that only a broad and clear expanse
of water is presented to the eye. The grounds are well furnished
with wood, and many additional plantations have been made by
the present owner,

DONNINGTON CASTLE

Rears its lof>y head above the remains of the venerable oaks
which once surrounded it, on an eminence north-east of the
gro^. It was formerly a place of much importance; and. by
commanding the western road, gave to its possessors a considera-
ble degree of authority. When it was originally built i? uncertain;
but from a manuscript preserved in the Cotton Library, it ap-
pears that it belonged to Walter Abberbur)-, who paid C. shillingi
for it to the King. Towards the latter end of the reign of Richard
the Second, Sir Richard Abberbury obtained a license to rebuild
it; and from him it descended to his son Richard, of whom it ¥ras
purchased by Gei>lTrey Chaucer, the parent of Flnglish poetry.

Hither about the year 135)7» in the 70th year of his age, the
bard retired, in order to taste those sweets of contemplation and
rural quiet, which the hurr\* and fatigues of a court had before
prevented his enjoying. In Gibson's edition of Camden, it is
asserted, that *^ an oak was here standing till within these few
years, under which Chaucer penned many of his famous poems."*
This tradition i^ in all probability a mistake, as most, if not all,

BERKSHIRE.

klfChaucer's potms were written before his retirement; and even
Iplcwijt as Tarty years ego nut ilie leusl remains uf It (.'uiild be found
4ftcr the strictest search, anil most diligent c4|uiry, aniong the
leghbouring inhabitants. That " be composed his pieces under
n oak ul his own planting," is a story that has likewise been
Bnrrent, but is an absolute iinpwsibility, as he was not in pos-
•tion of tile estate more than three years. He died in London,
llfluther he had gone to solicit the continuation of some of his
|ianls, in the year 1400.

»> Alice, the grand-daughter of the poet, by marria^ with William
fin la Pole, Duke of Suflblk, conveyed the castle into his posses-
lion. This Lord was the favorite of Henry" the Sixth ; but havii^
(bused ibe power which he hid obtained over that weak monarch,
s banished hy the Commons. Onreiurningto England, he wai
■ttied near Dover by the parlizans uf the Duke of York, and b»>
JModed. Wom him it descended to J^mund de la Pole, who
peing executed for treasonable practices in the reign of lienry tlis
Isventh, it escheated to the crown, where it remained till th«
17th of Henry the Eighth, when it appears to have been granted
te Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. In the reign of James the
Bnti it belonged to the family of the Packers, whose heirc^s^iar-
' d Dr. Hartley, ancestor to Mr. Hartley, the present proprietor.
it In the civil wars it was a post of great consequence, being for-
tified 83 a garrison for the King, and the government entrusted Co
Colonel Boys. During these troubles it was twice besieged; the
iMt time by Colonel llorton, who, raising a battcty ogainst it,
t the foot of 3 hill near Neuliury, fired upwards of 1000 shot,
r whifh three of the towers were demolished, and part of the
; but the governor refused either to give or accept quarter on
My terms whatever; and bravely defended the ruined fortress till
Sieved by the King's army, when his gallant behaviour was re-
k'«ompcnsed with the honour of knighthood. The day after the
lecond battle of Newbury, it was again summoned by the Parlia^
nent's generals, who threatened, if the castle was not surrendered,
^ that not one stone should be left on another. To this the governor
H^^plied, " that he wa> not bound to repair it ; but was determined

m BBKKSHX&B.

by God's grace to keep the ground afterwards.'^ Variow oflbry
fv<ere then made to induce him to give up the place, but the knight
was inflexible ; aMi though he had permission to retire with anns,
cannon, ammunition, and every thing else that belonged to the
garrison, only answered, '* that he would not go out of the castle
till he had the King's orders so to do." This was the most favor-
able opportunity that had occurred for ruining the King's aAtirs;
but the dissensions which then prevailed in the enemy's camp
caused them to neglect it, and after one fruitless assault, nothing
further was attempted against the castle. The Monarch a few days
afterwardty came unexpectedly to its relief, and escorted kit ar*
tiUery and baggage to Oxford in safety.

In Camden's time, this castle was entire. He describea it ei
** e small, but very neat place, seated on the brow of e woody
Ull, having a fine prospect, and lighted by windows on every
tide." The walb nearly fronted the cardinal points of flw compes)
the entrance being at the east end. The west end terminated in
e semi-octagon, inscribed in the half of a long oval. * It was de»
fended by four round towers placed on the angles. The length of
the east end, including the round towers, was 85 feet; and the
ext«»t from east to west, 120 feet All this part is de stroy ed.
The remains, displayed in the \ignette, consist of the stone gate-
house, with its two round towers, and a small part of the cast
wall. The gate-way is in good preser\-ation, and the place for
the portcullis may still be seen.

A stair-case winds up the south tower to the siunmit of dM
castle, which commands a nnost beautiful view of the llampehire
kills, and the intermediate countrw At the conclusion of the
civil wars, the ruinous parts of the buildiiu; were taken down»
and a house elected with the materials at the bottom of the hilL
Round the castle, almost occupnng the whole eminence, are
the entrenchments thrown \ip for its defence in modem times. The
site of these b difBcult to be traced from the bushes and briait
with which they are o\TrTun : but their strrm^i explains the reply
of the governor* which, consitlerii^ the state of the castle at that
time^ must otherwise have been a vain-glorious boast*

Great

BCKKAHIHE.

Grcftt numbers of cannon-balls liave been rliiganJ ploughed up

Lfouitd the castle; and some y<

; found,

■sago.

old well w

K and four pounder

four brass cannon it

Sbaw Hov«e is abont the distance of a mile east of Donning-
lon Castle. It is a large edilice, built with brick, mixed with a
quantity of stone, and became celebrated for ha\ing been the
bead-quarters of King Charles at the time of the last battle of
Newburv- In an old oak wainscot of a bow window in the library,
h a hole about the height of a man's head. This aperture, ac
iCerding to tradition, was made by a bullet tiretl at the Monarch,
u be M'as dressing himself at the window, by a mitsqucteer belong*
ing to the Parliament's army. The shot narrowly missed him ;
and the wainscot has been carefully preierved at a memorial of
the transaction.

This house was built by an eminent clothier, named Doteman,
»bout the latter end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. This gen-
tleman, being enriched by his business, resolved to erect a spa-
cious mansion, where the evening of his days might be passed in
«asc and retirement. This determination, it appears, did not
agree with the ideas of his neighbours, the remembrance of whose
iUiberality has been preser\'ed even to our days by an odd sarcasm:

:,Mc I

ncd awiy ill hit

The grolesque humor of this dislich pleads strongly in favor of
its antiquity ; and the various Latin and Greek sentences inscribed
upon different parts of the house, evince that the sneers of the
Wighbourhood were not unknown to the builder. The descend-
ants of Mr. Dolcman, though ihe heirs of his estates, were not
die inheritors of bis penury; for the possessions being much dc<
Creued, were at length sold to the Duke of Chandos about 1740.

Benrah House, the seat of Lord Craven, is about one mile
west of Spcen. Thi; entrance to the park from the high road is
by a gate with a handsome lodge on each side; hence a spacious

I amy through a wood leads to the open grounds, where a variety
cf pleasing views arc presented.

124 BERKSHIRE.

On the south beyond the vale, which is intersected by the
Kennct, we have a fine prospect of Ilainpsted-Marshal Park, and
Its woody accompaniments. The grounds on this side are agree-
ably varied in appearance, and decorated with clumps oV stately
trees, whose deep shadows playing on the water, give animation
and contrast to the contiguous scenery. The hij^h grounds on the
west are crowned with extensive woods, whose back>ground is
formed of bold projecting tracts of the Wiltshire Downs. Towards
the east, the eye ranges over a large district of well cultivated
country, interspersed with wood, and diversilied with a tract
of prolific meadow land.

The house is a regular building of the Ionic ordcr^ composed of
freestone, with an elegant portico on the south front. It stands
on a sloping bank, embosomed in a deep and solemn grove^ where
uniformity of tone has been judiciously prevented by the inters
mixture of trees of various coloured foliage. A haijttsome sheet
of water, supplied by the silver Kennet, and bounded with agree-
able lines, flows before the mansion, in the vicinity of which is a
small wooden bridge of three arches, built after a Chinese design.
The north side of the grounds is ornamented by woods, which ex-
tend to the western gate, and conceal the termination of the park,
which is here confined by a sweep of the Bath road. The general
character of the place is simplicity and beauty. The scenery is
too regular to be picturesque, and too tame to be romantic.

HUNGLRFORD ""

Is a small market town, situated at the western extremity of
the county, bordering on Wiltshire, and consisting principally
of one long street. It was anciently called Itigleford ChannoH'
Street y which Mr. Gough supposes to be a corruption from the
ford of the Angles^ on //ermnw-Street ; a Roman road that crossed
this town, and whose name appears to be yet presened in one of
its avenues, called Charman-Street.

Hungerford stands in a marshy soil on the Kennet, and is water-
ed by two separate streams of that river. Near the centre of the

principal

BKRKSinilE. 135

IHncifal street is the market-house and shambles. Over tbo
r is a lai^e room, wliere the inhabitants assemble for the
Mnsaction of public business. In this room a curious relic of
intiquity is preserve)!, (feiiominated the Hwngerford Horn, which
5 given as a rhatler to the town by John of Gaunt. It bean
^e following inscription:

John a Gauk did otuK *KD sraxt tH£ riall*
it Fishing to Hdkgehpord Touke from Eldren stub
TO Irish stil ExcBVTtNC som sevbrai. uil fouko.
jEnosFUAT Lucas was cvkstabl.

The privilege RTanted to the town by these lines has long been

abridged. The liberiy extended about seven miles. The Aorn,

we arc informed, is made of brass, and is now blown annually

as^^emble ihc inhabitants on the day appointed to choose the

is assisted in the execution of his office by twelve

rsand burgesses, a bailitf, steward, town clerk, &c. The

Mnstable is Lord of the Manor, and holds his right immciliately

t the King. The church is an ancient structure, situated at the

■ a pleasant walk, shaded with high trees, in the western

l^quartcr of the town : it appears to have been erected at diflercut

n periods. Among the monuments is a brass plate to the memory

ft( Robert df Hmigrrford, who was the first of that family in

s county. The inscription is in Norman Fiench, purporting,

I ihat " whoever shall pray for Rotiert de Hungeiford, shall have

f whilst he lives and for his soul after death 550 days of pardon."

r Kear the church is a free grammar school, for four boys and

r three girls, founded by the Reverend Dr. Sheef, in the year 1036;

land endowed by Mrs. Cummins, and Mr. Hamblin, with 171. a

r year ; and also a provision for a grammar master. Edward Capps,

\ tn old servant of the Hungerford family, whose faithful services

f bad procured him the appellation of Trusly, bequeathed 501. for

i the building of a new school-room) and 4l. per annum as an

'* addition to the master's salary. The town is chictly inhabited by

tradesmen,

• RiiU i.

, Royilly, I

exclui

■eCnnt

126

BEKKSIIIKE.

tradesmen, a.nd those who are employed in agriculture; but It is
expected thiit its buMaesii will greatly increaiie when the caoalt
which is now forming lo unite the watcn> of tho Kennet and
Avon, is completed. The caiial crosses the Kennet twice betweea
Newbury and Hungerford, and once between the latter place and
Froxtield. It is expecled to be finished in about four years, and
will then open a navigation from London to Bath, and ujiitc the
waters of the Bristol Channel with those of the Thames. The
inhabitants of Hun^erford have ri^ht of common on the neigh-
bouring down, according to the rental of their houses.

HuNGERFORD Park, situated at the extremity of the down,
was formerly the residence of the Barons Hungerford ; but lately
the seat of Charles Dalbiac, Esq. who erected a neat man-
sion, in the Italian style, on the site of the old bouse, which was
built by Queen Elizabeth, and given to the Eail of Essex. The
lands surrounding the house ate mostly cultivated, and the plea-
sure grounds have a neat and agreeable appearance. The south
and west sides nrcclosed with hoe woods; but the country bdng
more open on the north, admits the eye lo range over a coiui-
derable extent of beautiful scenery.

LAMBORN, OR LAMBOURNE,

Is a small market-town of great antiquity, pleasantly situated
in an open country, and deriving its name from the river, whose
famied peculiarity we have already examined. This place was
bequeathed by King Alfred to his kinsman Alfrith, with other
Lordships. After the conquest it became the property of the
Fifz Waritii, whose interest with Henry tho Third procured its
inhabitant" the grant of a market and three fairs. On the north
side of the church is an hospital for ten poor men; six of whom
are nominated by the New College, Oxford, and four by the
Hippisley family of this town.

About three miles from Lambom is the most remarkable anti-
quity in all Berkshire, This is the figure of a White Horsi,
formed on the north-west Mde of a high and steep bill. Mr.

Wise,

'\ae,' wbo appears to hitvc given more attentioii to this subject
otiier person, ascribes ils forin%tion to the great Ai-
'&ED, who ordered it to hemaJeas a trophy of the signal victory
fhich he obtaiaed over the Danes at Ashduwn, in this neighbour'
llieycar 871.

Carv'd niddy on the pcndint lotl, U ttai

The uiow-whilc couiici itretching o'er the gnea :

The inliquc fipitc icin with cuiiouj rye,

The gtoiioui Rianuincnl of victory 1

There England lear'd h« long dejected head;

■ Faii

V Hrt

^ Mr, Wise, in the warmth of his admiration of this monument,
escribes it as being designed in so miuttr-Uke a manner, that
ren the painter's skill could not ^vc a more perfect delincetioa
f the animal it represents. This praise is certainly exaggerated;
W though the outline of the Horse diiJpUys ingenuity, yet' the
nde age in which it was formed, as we!l as its general appearance,
Wntradict the asserii'm. The horse is portrayed in a gallupping
OMtion, on the upper part of a hill, where its steep situation,
nd barren soil, furnish complete security against the inroads of
K plough, the stagnation of waters, or the grazing of cattle.
t dimensions occupy about an acre of ground; aiid its shape is
Bnermined by hollowed hues, which are trenches cut in the
iriute chalk, between two and three feet deep, and about ten
iioad. The head, neck, body and tail, are composed of one
ne varying in width; and one line, or trench, has also been
Ukde for each of the l^s. The chalk in the hollowed spaces
cing of a briglitcr color than the turf that surrounds it, catches
liun's rays, and renders the whole %ure visible at several
i distance. Though the situation of the horse preserves it
from all danger of being obliterated, yet the peasants of the sur-
Bpunding country have a custom of assembling at stated periods
wr llie purpose of clearing it from weeds, i:c. This practice, in

iho

»» Set Obierviliou oti the Whin Horn, aad LcUers aa Berkshire AMirjuiliu.

128 BERKSntllK. r

the phraseology of the country, is called scouring the horsey and
is attended with a rustic festival, and the celebration of various
games. The supplies which nature is continually affording,
occasion the turf on the upper \ ergo of the body to crumble, and
fall into the trench, for want of continuity ; this makes the above
proceeding more necessary, as the brightness of the horse must
depend on its frceness from extraneous matter.

Some writers have contended that this figure was the work of
shepherds, who having noticed the rude, yet natural, resemblance
of a horse when tending their flocks, reduced it to a more perfect
shape, for amusement, rather than from any determinate signifi-
cation ; and that, instead of being a monument of victory, it is
nothing but a memorial of idleness. Tliis opinion is sufficiently
refuted by the arguments of Mr. Wise and others, who, from va-
rious circumstances, have concluded, that it must have been a
production of the West-Saxons, and not later than the age of
Alfred; in whose reign the white horse, the original standard
of the Pagan Saxons, was discarded for the Christian banner of
the cross.

Having established these data, the particular era of its formation
was more easy to be determined ; and no c%'ent of those ages
seemed more worthy of being recorded by such a triumphant me-
morial, than the battle of Ashdown, already mentioned, and
which, of all the mihtary achievements of the renowned AlfrbOi
was most worthy of being commemorated. Antiquaries, indeedi
have considerably differed as to the situation of the place where
the battle was fought ; but the reasoning of Mr. Wise seems deci-
sive as to its being a district that included the range of hills from
Lctcombe and its neighbourhood, which overlooks the vale, and
runs into Wiltshire, and is now crossed by the western road called
the Ridge- way. The names of the Ashes, Ashcn-den, Ashburyt
and Ashdown, all found in this neighbourhood, corroborate the
hypothesis.

" Here then," observes Mr. WMse, " I was persuaded to look
lor the field of battle, and was agreeably surprised to find my ex-
pectation answered in every rci^pcct. Upon the highest hill of

Ihesa

Uffingtor

BERKSHIRE.

{, north -eRs I ward, is a large RomRn entrenchment, called
1 Castle, where, I suppose, the Danes lay encamped }
r marches were generally ho^ty, and more like that of
plunderers than of a regular army, they had not lime to throw up
'. indeed, was there occasion, where they found
plough of them ready made to their hands. This place I chose
r the Danes, because Asser* says, they had got the upper
ground. About half a mile lower, westward, on the brow of the
II, nearer to Aslibury, overlooking a larm-house, is a camp,
rti^d seemingly after the Saxon manner, with two ditches, but
|0t near so strong as the former, which has only one : this is
klled Hardwell Camp, and here I suppose King Elhelred lay the
t before the engagement. About a mile or more from hence,
teneath the wood of Ashdown Park, is a slight roundish en-
^nchment, which seems to liave been thrown up in baste, and
lAiGh, as I have been iuforined, is called Ashbury Camp, and
[■>■£ AlfrtiTt Castle. Such a signal victory as thi^ Saxons obtained
'q this place, deserved not to pass without some token or memo-
of it; and such 1 take to be the White Hoksf. described on
(lie hill, almost under Uflington Castle. Alfred, in settii^ up his
B. for a token, did nothing but what wns exactly agreea-
ble to ancient practice ; and though he had not the opportunity of
^sing, like other conifuerors, a stupendous monument of brass,
C marble, yet he has shown an admirable contrivance in erecting
ce magnificent enough, though simple in its design, that may
hereafter vie with the Pyramids for duration, and, perhaps, exist
jvlien those shall be more,"

It bas been observed, tliat the white horse ceased to be the
Baxon standard iu the reign of King Alfred: this circumstance
nay be thought to militate against the opinions of those who as-
e the formation of this monument to (hat Monarch i we must
mcoUect, however, that the battle of Ashdown was fuughl during
Ac life of Ethelred.when Alfred acted as bis brother's, lieutenant,
CDnbcquently before he hud H'^cended the thmno: uad also, ihut
, Vol. I. K tlie

• Mcneven..!, > ho wtui* \h< L\U of Alficd

130 BERK8HIEZ.

the alteration of the banner, in all probability, was not made
till the year 883, twelve years afterwards; when, among other
relics which Pope Martin the Second transmitted from Rome, was
" a large portion of that most holy and most venerable cross upon
which our Lord Jesus Christ was crucified for the universal sal-
vation of men. *"

From a manuscript journal of the travels, over a great part of
England, of Thomas Baskerville, Esq. of Sunningwell in this
county, now in the British Museum, it appears that the holders
of the land in the neighbourhood of the White Horse, were, by the
conditions of tenure, obliged to cleanse and repair it. This obli-
gation is now void ; for though the traditiotis of the peasantry
have preserved the memory of its existence, yet the fineqiieiit
changes which property has undergone, and the endeavours of
the purchaser, on each transfer, to avoid restrictions, have con*
tributed to cancel every record that could make it binding.

About a mile from White Horse Hill are a number of laige
stones, scattered irregularly over a space of ground raised a few
ieet above the common level. Some arc set on edge ; but the
others are strewed about in confusion; many of them having been
broken to mend the highways. Towards the extremity of the hil-
lock, on the south-east side, are three squarish stones, about
four or five feet in diameter, standing upright, and supporting
another of much laiger dimensions. To this place there seems to
have been two approaches through rows of large stones, one lead-
ing from the south, the other from the west. This monument bears
the appellation of Way land-Smith, from a ridiculous tradition
that has long been current in the neighbourhood, of an invisible
smith replacing lost horse-shoes, provided the animal was left
on this spot, with a piece of money to reward the labours of the
workman.

Mr. Wise ascribes this remnant of antiquity to the Danes, who,
in his opinion, erected it to the memory of their king Bacseg,
slain with several other chiefs in the dreadful battle already men-
tioned. Bacseg, he imagines, was buried here ; but thinks that

the

* A»ser Mcnevemis.

BEHKSHIRB. 131

IB ckiobwcre interred about a mile distant, in tlie place called
leieKn Barrows; though more than twenty of ihdse tumuli may
U be counted. The barrows are of various shapes; oni; is long;
po or three others have aring of earth, inclosing a sioall eminence
I th» centre; the rcnminder are of the common form. Edward
i^i Esq. the learned author of '* ^luniinenla Antii(tui," dis-
nts from the conclusions of Mr. Wi,^, and refcit the above vcs-
gci of ancient mnnncrs lu the Bvilum. Between White Hona
iiU and a Roman road, supposed to be the IcL-nning Way, is a
■ge barrow, called Dragon-Hill, which Mr. Aubrfy conjectures
I bave been the burial-place of Uler-Pendragon. Mr, Wi=e co-
cidea inth him in supposing it to be the tumulus of some Bcitish
lief, but of whom, lie is unable to decide.

COLESHILL

Is a small villi^e on the side of a hill, at the western exti«mity
'the county, about two miles from Ili^hwortb. It seems to
We derived its name from its elevated situation, and the proxi-
tly of the river Cole, which flows near the bottom of the villa^,
id loTyaa the boundary of the parish.

TTie church is a neat stone building, dedicated to St, Faith,
tii bniamcnted at the west end by a handsome square tower,
Ih b4ittlement!> and pinnacles. The body of the church consists
'a nave and two aisles. In the south aisle is a curiout circular
ndoWi of modem workmanship, in which is a 6ne piece of
hkei glaas, executed by Mr. Price of London, represcntii^
i arms bf.Sir Mark Sinnrt Pleydell and his Lady. In the same
Re {■ an elegant moimmetit of while marhle by Ry^brack, to
t memory of the only daughter of the above persons. An
tate of about I5l. jier annum, was given, by the Reverend John
nwnt, vicar of this parish, in the year IJoG, for apprenticing
B children of ihobe among the poor inhabitants of Culeshill and
reatCoxwcll (u neighbottTing village) who had net er received
tef from their parish j the sum of live pounds to be allotted &)r
th child. The number of houses is about ju, thai of the
labitants 340.

Nea

Near this village, yfhence its appellation appears to have been
obtained, is Cdlesiiill, tbe seat of Lord Viscount Folkstotw,
the eldest son of the Earl of Radnor. This mansion displays a
perfixt and unaltered specimen of the architectural taste of Inigo
Jones, from whose designs it was erected in the year 1 650; only
two years before his death. Horace Walpolc, speaking of this artist,
observes, that he was the "greatest in his profession that lias ever
appeared in these kingdoms, and so great, that in that reign of
arts (Charles the First) we scarcely know the name of another
architect." As the celebrity of Inigo Jones must render every
display of his works interesting to the admirer of architecture, we
have been induced to give a view of the house, which, by repre-
senting its shape and style of building, precludes the necessity of
verbal description. The internal parts are characterized by those
ponderous ceilings, heavy cornices, and profusion of caned
ornaments and gilding, which at the period of its ereciion were
5Uppo§ed to constitute the essentials of elegance. The apart-
ments are decorated with a few good pitintings, and several por-
traits; but the principal pictures belonging to the family ar«
preserved at Longford Castle, the seat of the Earl of Radnor,
in Wiltshire.

The grounds have lately undergone a complete alteration, and
have been laid out under the direction of the Earl, according to
the present taste of landscape gardening. They abound with
pleasing scenery, and are diversified by that inequality of surface
which seems requisite to render landscape either picturesque or
beautiful. The river Cole meanders through the valley which
skirts the western side of the park; and tiic town of lli^worlh
forms an agreeable object from many parts of the grounds.

F.\RRlNGDON, or FARRENDON,

■ As it is sometimes found in ancient writings, is a market town,
in the north-west part of the county, situated about two miles

• from the Thames, on the west side of Farringdon Hill. The po-
pulation is considerable, amounting to nearly 2000 persons. The

church.

diurch, which stands on the hill, is a spacious editing ; the east
end having the appearance of grntt aniiquity. Part of tlie spire
was destroyed during the civil wars: the remainder is but very
little higher than the body of the church; within which are several
fine monuments ; and on the south side that of the unknown
founder. Among these memorials of ihc brevity of human exiat-
ence, is one to the memory of Sir Edward Unton, Knight of the
Garter. This gentleman was ambassador from Queen Elizabeth
U) France, where he signalized his attiichmcnt to hia Royal
I Mistress by tending tlie following remarkable challenge to the
of Guise. " Forasmuch as in the lodging of the Lord
mayne, and in public elsewhere, impudently, and indiscreetly,
r boldly, you spake ill of iny sovereign, whose sacred
Q I in this country represent ; to maintain, both by word and
r~1IMpon, her honor, which was never called in question among
people of honesty and virtue : I say you have most wickedly lied
in speaking so basely of my sovereign ; and you will do nothing
but lie whenever you shall dare to tax her honor, Morcoveri
,t her SBCred person being one of the most connilete, accom-
ll)ed,end virtuous

, by the malicif
r law and country as
lenge your person to
rifcfcUlike or choose, be i1
have you think that there
1 being issued of as great
i yourself. So assigning mc an indifferent place, I will there
intoin my words and the lie which I have given, and which you
t endure, if you have any courage at all in you. If
B consent not to meet me hereupon, I will hold you and cause
I to be held for the arrantest coward, and most slanderous
^ve, that exists in France. I expect your answer, &c."
B^lobert, F^rl of Gloucester, erected a castle here in the reign
(King Stephen ; but the Monarch, after some resistance, reduced
d levelled it with the ground. The site of it, according to the
ronicle of \V';uct-ly Abbey, ([uoted by Camden, was, by King
K 3 John,

the world, ought not to be evil
us tongue of such a perfidious traitor to
ou are; and hereupon I do defy and
mine with such manner of arms as you
on horseback or on foot. Nor would I
is any inequality of person between us;
I race, and noble house, in all respects.

134 BE&KSRIItfe.

John, in the year 1202, " by divine admonition, granted with all
its appurtenances to build an abbey of the Cistercian order."

These fruitful plains, in that unhappy hour
Of papal sway, and sacerdotal power.
Were doom'd the new made abbey to maintain,
And distant Bsaul:eu * rul'd the fair domain.

Farrincdon Hill.

Farrikgdon House is an elegant modern edifice, built by
Henry James Pye, Esq. the present laureat. It stands in a small
parky on the north side of the town, the view of which is hapfMljT
excluded by lofty elms, and some plantations that have lalely beca
made. The grounds are agreeable from their inequality of sur-
face, and sufficiently covered with wood for their confined limiti.
During the civil wars, the ancient mansion was garrisoned ibr
Charles the First, and was one of the last places that surrendeied;
its defenders having repulsed a large party of the Parliament's
forces but a short time before the reduction of Oxford. Thb at-
tack was attended with a singular circumstance: Sir Robert Pye»
the owner of the house, who had married Anne, the eldest dai^-
tcr of Hampden, and was colonel in the Parliament's army, being
himself the person who headed the assailants. It was in this ac-
tion that the spire of Farringdon church was beaten down by the
artillery.

In the immediate vicinity of the town is pARRiNODON-HiLLy
a beautiful eminence, rising gradually from the Vale of White
Horse, and terminated by a small grove, which forms a kind of
land-mark for the surrounding counties, being seen at a great dis-
tance in every direction. This charming place commands a rich
and extensive view over parts of Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, and
Wiltshire, in addition to the whole of the beautiful and interesting
vale beneath. But the muse of Mr. Pye, who on this spot strung
her lyre with melody, has snatched the fruitful subject from
the attempts of prose; and, by interweaving the beauties it owes
to nature, with the embellbhments it receives from art, and the

interest

*BEAULXXvm Hampshire, to which the Abbey at Farringdon wu subordinatCi

behkbuibb.

iaterest it derives from history, has precluded descnptJon from
all but tliDM who have been admitted to partake of the Helipcoujaa
stream.

Hf re lufly tt

lift their

n: h«d>,

1 !>pibc grtsty meidow ipreadii
Enclotum )iere Ihc tylvin scene divide,
Tbere plaiiu extended ipnad ibcir hirveiti widci
Hcte oiki, UiciiiDOUy limbiwidc ittciching, meet.
And form impf rviom diLckeu it out fcei :
Through iromilir: heapi of tipening hiy,
There lilve. I. , . win, her winding w.y,
And miny a tower, md

ic grovci, and checri ihc i

"On (he tnp of Badbury Hill, on the north aAe of the

k turnpike road leading from farringdon to HigUworth, and within
ft &w yards of it, is a camp of a circular form, 200 }aTil>i in
diameter, with a ditch 20 yards wide. About nine yeart ago, in
levelling the north rampart, humun bones and coals were found;
and human bones are found every year in digging for peat in
the swampy ground nbout one mile south of [he hill. Leiand, in
hia Itinerary, says, that he learned of cerrainly, that " a mile
out of Farringdon, towards the right way tu llighwotth, appeared
a great diche, wher a fortresse, or rather a camp of warre, had
bcene, as some say, diked by the Danes h& a sure camp." Mr,
Wise, in his letter to Dr. Mead, supposes that the battle of Jl/ii»t
BadoJiiciig, or Badbury Hill, in the year 520, mentioned by Betle
and Gildan, in which Arthur gained his twelfth victory, was
fought near the White Horse Hill ; but if, from similarity of
names, it may be concluded that that battle happened in this
neighbourhood, there is much more probability of thu being the
spot, than Ihe Wi1t!>hire hills ; as this camp is Danish, and nearer
to the While Horse Hill, than the other, in Wilts, the fortifica-
tions of which are Roman. Between this camp and the White
Horse liilU is a plain dead flat, five miles wide, a very proper

tment of two armies,*"
K 4 About

* A11CH.10LOCIA, Vol. 1.

1J6

About two miles north of Farringdon is R a DC OT Bbidoe, of
great anticpiity and venerable appearance ; but more pecoHariy in*
teresting, from the relation it bears to history. On this spot a
memorable battle was fought in the year 1387, between Robert
de Vere, Marquis of Dublin, the highly honoured &vonte of
Richard the Second, and the discontented barons, headed by
Thomas, Duke of Gloucester ; the Earl of Derby, afterwards
Henry the Fourth, &c. The troops of the favorite were routed ;
and he, himself, only escaped, by plunging on hoiaeback into the
Thames, and swimming across the stream.

PUSEY

Is a village only remarkable for having bdonged to ooe fuiBf
ever since the reign of Canute, who gave it to their ancestor faj
the medium of a Hork, which is now in the possession of tha
owner of the estate, and bears the following inscription:

Ktkg Kkqwd gave Wtllyam Pewss

YtS BORir TO HOLDE BY THY LOKD.

This horn is described by Mr. Gough as being of a dark brown
tortoiseshell colour, mounted at each end with rings of silver, and
a third round the middle, on which the inscription is written in
characters of much later date than those of the time of Canute.'
The horn is of an ox or buffalo ; two feet are fixed to the middle
ring* apd the stopper is shaped like a dog's head,

*
WANTAGE,

Rendered memorable for being the birth-place of Kxkg Al-
fred, whose name no epithet cap exalt, whose worth no words
can appreciate, is a market town of considerable antiquity, seated
on the skirts of the prolific Vale of White Horse. A varie^ of
concurring testimonies render it probable, that this place was
once a Ron^n station ; though the nufnerous alterations which it
has undergone, almost preclude the possibility of tracing those

remains

BenKsaiRS. 137

which would at once decide the (jucstion and the contro>
Id a couDlry that has been the scene of frequent revo-
and the theatre of cuntending aruiies, it is nut to be
supposed that the vestiges of former ages should have remained
so complete and perfect, as if the bulcyoa days of peace bad for
its pl^ns. In thiii neighbourhood the footsteps
may be discovered; but ihey are all imperfect,
iman works have been dcmoliabed to muke room for Saxon ;
these again have been destroyed, that the devices of modern
timei might be executed.

Dr. Salmon has conjectured that this (own is the GleDum or
C/(T«m of Antoninus; but in this, we believe, the voice of eveiy
Mfaer antiquary is against him; that name, by almost general as-
'., being ascribed to Gloucester. The vallum of the Roman
Itation in Wantage, was plainly to be seen when Mr. \\'isc visited
it about the year 1738, " inclosing a space on the south side the
brook, called, the High-Garden," A hollow way into the town
from Farringdon, Orove-Street, a morass, and a river, form the
■ides of an oblong square, contaiiiTtig about six acres of ground,
On this spot, continues Mr. Wise, " stood the Saxon palace where
Alpked was bom." North of the brook is Umbjurough, an intlo-
sure where Roman coins have been found: and between this place
and the river the remains of a building, called King Atf'rtd't
CfUar, were discovered, which was paved with brick, and ap-
to have been a bath. Near Limborough i^ Court Cloee,
:ber small piece of ground, called Pallet's More, Mr. Wise
iConjectures to luve been originally Palace Moor.

Wantage was probably of conscqtieuce in Saxon times; as it

was undoubtedly a royal scat, and appears, together with (he

•Urrounding country, to have been the patiiraony of the West-

By the Will of Alfred, it was bequeathed to lti»

in Alfritb; and was Jirst made a market town about 150

after the Conquest, through the interest of Fulk Fttz-warine,

whom it was bestowed by Roger Digod, Earl Mursi.aJl of Eng-

reward for military services. Its prcaciit population

ly be estimated at ISOO.

Alfred

Cflhr,

KlUuMher
■ coniectu

138 BIBKmiBB.

Alfred the Gkeat, the Wisb, the Good, wh bom ii^
the year 649- His nativity may be r^ardcd u a new Era in
the history of human happiness. The tremendous crisis at wbieh
he appeared, when the hardy sons of the north were pouiing like
a devastating torrent on the fertile fields of Europe ^ the mighty
ends he accomplished, by creating the finn barrier which so lopg
opposed their overwhelming progress; and the distinguished sta-
tion which Britain has assumed in the rank of nations, and
which originated in the wisdom of his institutions, are at oace
the Jieraids of his fame, and the cl-ear and dici<>ive records of the
extent of his resources, and the pre-eminence of his ability.

Alfred was the youngest child of Elhelwulph, King of the
Wcst-Snxons, and Osberga, the daughter of Oslac, the monarch's
cup-bearer. His mother has been extolled for her jiioly and un-
derstanding; but her instructions could have Utile effect in form-
ing the mind of her sou, nho, when only four years of age, was
taken from her supeiin tendance, and sent lu Rome, where, at iiis
fether's rcqucit, he was anointed King, by Pope Leo the Fourth.
Ethclwulph, on this occasion, seems to have l>een actuated by
an unjust partiality. He had overlooked the claims of his older
children, two of whom were verging into manhood, and attempted
to bind the diadem on the brows of an infant.

About two years al'terwards, when Alfred had entered into hii
seventh year, he accompanied his father, whose capacity was bet-
ter adapted for a cloister than the government of a nation, in bis
journey to the capital of the I'apal sec ; and a second lime visited
Rome, These successive pcregrinaCionf must have had a powerful
efieci in exciting the latent enerpe^ of his genius. The avidity of
youth to contemplate new objects, and the various and contrasted
scenes which a tour through France and Italy must in those days
have exhibited, could not fail of enlarging the powers of a noble
end generous disposition, Infant civili^Htiun, royal magnificence,
nature in terrific grandeur, or in wildest sohiude, the human
character in every variety of energetic barbarisjn, or artificial
polish, the excitation of unexpected difficulties, dangers suft
mounted, and persevering labour continued often to toil, mii
have occupied his attention in perpetual succession; and muc

•ctirit;

BERKSHIRE.

•etivity or mind, snd novelty of idea, miwt have rpsulled from
lie varying impressions.
The exclusive partiality of Eihelivulph for his youngest child,
'Onnbining with other circumstances, had occasioned a conspiracy
gkinst his power, and menaced him with deposition and exile,
to avert the gathering storm, he took shipping for L^nglaiid ; but
Jbond, on his return, that the combination was too strong to be
aiensted ; ttnd was forced to consent to the division of his kingdom

Ethelbald. His love of Alfred, however, suffered
flKt decay : he made him lh«^ object of his most fund, but mis-
gtndcd aflection; and nothing, perhaps, but his owu death, which
happened when the Prince was only eight years old, could have
secured the mind of the latter from being enervated and ruined
hy excessive indulgence.

education of Alfred was most deplorably neglected, and
ted the first eleven years of his life without being able to
This his biographer (Asser) ascribes to the sbameful neg-
! of his parents, and of those who nurtured him; but a
may certainly be found in the general ignorance
in that age pervaded Britain. "LuaniinR was in such dis-
that Alfred, when a sorereign, was unable, in all his pro-
tu discover masters competent to instruct him." The
inmeuts of youth were confined to the exercises of the chase,
transmitted wisdom of his forefathers, the unobtrusive elo-
cc of books, was to him unknown. Judith, his step-mother,
n Etheiwulph had married during his residence on the con-
t, is «md to have been the first to direct Ins untutored mind
lileralure. The kindling energy of Alfred's intellect displayed
a fondness for the only mental objects which then existed
attract it; these were the wild graces of Saxon poetry. His
ither, whose taste was probably congenial with his own, en-
him, by rewards adapted to his juvenile years, to
imit the verses to memory; and also induced him to learn to
by the promise of a book wherein the effusions of the poeta
recorded. Having onco tasted of the intellectual
lis thirst of knowledge, grew Willi /lis growtA, and
strengtkaud

■p

140 BERKSHlllE.

strenglkmtd with hii tlrmgtk. Every increase of ideas gaje
wings to p rese vera nee ; every new allainraenl augmented bis

assiduity.

After the death of Ethelwulph, his sons ascended the tlirono
in jegular succession. During the reigns of liis brethren, Alfred,
being esempted from the cares of sovereignty, devoted much of
his time to the liberal pursuits of literature. But bis studies
were embarrassed by the excessive ignorance which then prevail-
ed, " there being no person between the Thames and the Hiunber
capable of translating a Latin letter." Alfred numbered with hb
several misfortunes, that, "when he had youtli, and leisure, and
permission to learn, he could not lind teachers."

The two elder brothers of Alfred dying after very short reigns,
were succeeded by Eihelrcd, who created him chief minister and
general of his armies. In this situation his courage was frequently
displayed against the Danes, whose murderous bunds were pillag-
ing and destroying every quarter of the kingdom, and at length
had penetrated to Berkshire, where possessing themselves of
Reading, they dug a trench betiveen the Kennct and the Thames
to defend their encampments.

On the third day after their arrival, their leaders, with a pow-
erful body of cavalrj', began to plunder the surrounding country,
but were opposed by the br*ve Ethelwulf, carl of the coonty,
who defeated them after a long combat, and forced them to re-
treat, as wchave before stated, puge 9O1 to their fortifications. Four
days after this conflict, Elhelred and Alfred began their march,
and joining Lthelwulf, attacked the Danes in their camp ; but
they bad rushed to the battle with an inadequate force, aud the
conflict ceased with the death of Ethelwulf, and the retreat of the
English. Animated by this victory, the invaders quitted their
entrenchments, and marched to Ashdown. Now it was that the
military genius of Alfred began to display itself; the enemy ha4
advanced into the bosom of his country, and every effort that wis-
dom could devise, and valor execute, was requisite to be employ-
ed in the arduous contlicl he was compelled to sustain.

The

rhe brothers collected ti more complete and fonnidsbk army,

again advancei! to Ihe combat. Tlie Dane;, mindful of the

,ing storm, ace iimu! a led their utmost strength, and, with aii

mpl at tactical arrangement, divided themselves into two

>dies: One wa^ conducted by their twrf Kings; the other moved

Wer the Earls. The Isngliah imitated their array. Ethelred

etolved himself to encounter Ihe chiefs, and appointed Alfred to

ttitend with the Earls. Both armies raised their shields into

tlortoise arch, and demanded the battle.

• The Danes were first in the field; for Ellhelred, impressed

fith that dispiriting belief, which men on the eve of great con-

Bcts sometimes experience, that he should not survive the battle,

uted to say his orisons in his tent. Alfred, more eager for the

Mnbst, (tnd provoked by the defying presence of the enemy, was

tpfttient at the delay: his indignant courage forgot the inferi-

iky of the division he commanded ; he led up his troops in

leased order, and disdained to remark, that the crafty

tnes had the advantage of an eminence. A solitary tree mark-

8 the place of conflict, and round this the nations fought with

III clamour and equal bravery. The exertions of Alfred

inavailing; he had been too precipitate. The English

Uts gave way, when the presence of Etiielred, with his battle,

tttroyed the inequality of the combatants, and reanimated the

Ihting ^irits of his countrymen. The long and dreadful slrag-

le ended in the death pf Kin;; Bacseg, several earls, and some

ttousnnds of the Danes, who were chased all that night, and the
succeeding day, till they reached their fortress at Reading. This
waa the important victory which the IVMte Hone was formed to
commemorate.

The cares of Alfred were about to multiply; and the battle,

though accompanied with such a dismal slaugbter, was not deci-

iive of the war; for the Danes, being reinforced with fresh bodies

ir countrymen, supported another combat with the English

kMerton," and, after a. well disputed contest, remained masters

ily Mmon in thii county, Sk Tim"'" Anglo Sjxon!, Vol. II.

Hi BBKKBHISZ.

of the field. In this battle Ethelred wta mortally wounded ; and
his death, which shortly followed, removed the barrier which
precluded Alfred from the throne. Some cfaildreti of bia elder bn>-
thcr were still alive ; but the crisis was too awful for the nfttkn
to permit the sceptre to be wielded by the hand of a tremblii^ in-
fant. The nobiliiy assembled, and, with the approbatitMi of it*
people, chose Alfred for their King.

It is intimated, that he acceded to the request of bec<miiig
his Ttrollii'r's 'iurtfiit'r with hesitation; and, indeed, every
evil which cmi corrode human happiucss, §eeracd about to sur-
round the [iroSered diadem. It was a crown taken up from the
field of defeat, dropping with a brother's blood; and accordingly,
when Alfred accepted it, he began a new life of anxiety, shaded
for some lime with the deepest gloom of mistbriune. The tierceit
and most destructive succession of conflicts which ever saddened
a year of human existence, distinguished that of Alfred's acces-
sion with peculiar misery. The circle of destruction which en-
vironed him, began to contract, and all the causes of ruin ucre
accumulating to overwhelm him. The West Saxons had main-
tained eight pitched battles against the Danes, with their own
peculation, besides innumerable skirmishe-s. Many thousands
of the invaders fell, but their ranks were as continually recruited
by fresh arrivals.

Within a month after Alfred had accepted Ibc crown, the
Danes attacked his troops at \Vilioii with such a. superiority of
force, that all the valour of patriotism was unable lo prevent
defeat. Wearied with these depopulating conflicts, Alfred madv
' peace with his enemies, who quitted hin dominions, and marched
to London.

The conduct of Alfred during the seven succeeding years of his
reign was incx|)licaLly strange. An unwise, tejnporisiug poUcy
appeari to have governed his actions. He saw the Danes in mo^
tion ev-cry where around him, successively subduing and laying
waste the fairest portions of the island, without taking those mea-
sures of precaution which reason must have suggested to be net*-*-
sary. tic was witness to th«ir frequent breach of e

BtKKSIttKZ.

14S

kThe time, however, \i
t the hero's character *
uil powers of his soul
ft dulling rsys of his
e world in the lull glov

d yet had the wetikness to conliilc in their protestations. Every
new inault, Hml every additional act of perfidy, was cwromuted by
fresh oalhs, and an increase in the fiiniialiiies of abjuration. The
Monarch at this season appears to have been deficient both in «-
gilance and vigor ; and the only plan discernible in his conduct,
was to gain momentary repose. An interval of tranquillity was
lainly obtained, but it was a delusive slumber on the precipice
ttate.

s arrived, when all the latent energies
^rc to be roused to action. The dor-
pre to be awakened by adversity, and
icomparablc genius were to shine upon
of meridian splendor, ALrRci) was
apellcd to Ijccome a fugitive and a wanderer.
I'The circumstances which led to this extremity arc so extraor-
y that it is diflicult to comprehend Ibcm. The Danes in-
led Wessex ; and tlie country of an active, powerful Monarch
b undefended into their hands. They take possession of Cbip-
. in Wiltshire, in January ; and between that month and
I Easter fullnwing, the kingdom was subjugated, and Alfred in
almcnt. The gloom that hangs over this event is too thick
^ be dispersed ; but, from the admissions of some of bis biogra-
, it appeals, that Alfred at this time was not in possession
'of the conjiilaice of hU people.

Sir John Spelman, Hume, &c. have intimated, that the popu-
lation of Wessex was cNhausied by the frequency of contest, and
" the seven desperate battles" fought in the year 876. But these
battles are placed by the unanimous agreement of every reputable
chronicler in the last year of Etiielred's reign, and the first uf
Alfred's. Since that period the King had sometimes headed ar-
mies ; but no sanguimiry coitfiiLt is mentioned to have ensued in
Weasex ; and as seven years had elapsed without an important
gle, a third of the juvenile population at Alfred's accession,
luld, at this period, have attained the age of courageous man-
therefore, must hnvv proceeded from other

144 BK&KSHIEV.

Asscr avows his belief that the King's adversity was itot
ritcd. The reason which he adduces for his opinion is, ** that io
the first part of his reign, while yet a young man, and governed
by a youthful mind, when the men of his kingdom, and his sub-
jects, came to him, and besought him in their necessities, when
they who were oppressed by power, implored his aid and patron*
age, he would not hear them; he conceded no assistance; he
treated them as of no estimation." When Alfred turned a detl
ear to the complaints of his people, he sapped the foundation of
his throne. His contempt alienated their affections, and they de-
serted him in the hour of his need.

Alfred vacated his seat of royalty in the garb of a ^"^mmirfc
soldier: he knew not whither to go, nor whom to tnist. In hji
wanderings, he beheld the humble cottage of a ewineiierdf
he entered, a lonely exile. The feelings of the peasant
interested by his intimations of distress ; he gave shelter to tlM '
unknown Monarch, and treated him with hospitality. In tUs •
retirement, the mind of Alfred was busied in retrospection. He
revolved the important events of his life, and contemplated the
miseries of his*hlccding country. He beheld his peofde ensUved;
himself, an outcast; and, with all the emotions of indtgnaat
sensibility, began to meditate on schemes of deliverance^ and ft-
ture security. The place of his retreat was peculiarly fitted to
become a military post of the most defensible nature. It was a
small spot of firm land, a few acres in extent, environed by water,
and impassable marshes,* which had been produced by theconflu
of the Perrot and the Thone. Here, assisted by some of his
people, to whom he had made himself known, and who acqui-
esced in his plans, he constructed a long bridge, and upon id
wesfjpm end built a strong fort, which made hostile approaches
impracticable.

Having secured the place of his residence, and increased the
number of his associates, he began an excursive vrarfisr^agaiast
the enemy. Plis small band, formidable from union and v]gor»

* Id Somersetshire, si^ffealled ^thelingey, and Athdney.

BERKSHIRE. 145

ailed ihe invaders whenever opportunity offered ; and though
s litsl ulb'mpts were not crowned with great success, defeat
p^y augmented (heir prudeticf, iind called new eDc:^e!i into ac-
ta- Retiring into tlieii- unknown asylunii wilh a celerity which
fficd pursuit, .when ropul^iij by a superior force, they suun
irrasseil the enemy witb hostility in a different quarter. By
: expeditiotis, Alfred furnished bimitelf and Ins party with
ce, inured himself to war and skilful generalship, im- •
n his knowledge of the country, secured the aitiichment
f his fiiends, provided new resources of character for his future
\k, collected perpetual inl«lligcncc of the motions of the Danes,
irived the spirit of the country, and prepared it for ihaC grand
[ploit which was soon lu crown his labours.
1 Aflei' several months' obscuritj, lofty iichievcment* began to
BCupy Ihe mind of Alfred, and an auspicious incident occurred
i this juncture, lu fortify bis courage, and give reason to hit
He was iiilbrmed that Odun, Karl of Devon, had de-
Ued aud killed the daring Hubba, who iiad blockaded his castle
^KyBwith. An immense booty rewarded the victors ; l>ut the cap-
eof the magical standard of the Danes, the famous Reapan,
I, to the eye of ignorant superstition, a more fatal disastet
a the death of Hubba, or their own destructive defeat, In-
i by this fortunate omen, he I'urmcd a scheme for surprising
Wgrcat Danish army, which still continued in Wiltshire; but,
levious to the attempt, inspected their eucampmentj> disguised as
fiarper. His talents excited notice, he was admitted to the
■ aggral ta.bles, heard the secret councils of his foes, and beheld
beir exposed situation, uijdiscovered.
Having regained his retreat, he dispatched messengers to his
principal friends in the adjacent counties, announcing Lis ejyst-
Ke, and requiring them to collect their followers, and mcpt
1 in militaiy array on the cast of Selwood Foi'est. As the
o-Sa^ons had suffered severely in his alficnce, the tidings of
■ reroppearance fdled every breast with rapture. All who were
ivith 'the secret, crowded enthusiastically to t!ie place
f meeling. Ha\'ing cncatnped two nialils in the licld, they rose

1*6 IBRKBHIKB.

on the third day with the fint gleams of the morning, and march-
ed rapidly to Eddington, near Westbury, where the Northecn
myriads overspread the plains.

The Ar^lo-Saxons rushed on their enemies with an impetuo-
sity which disordered valor was unable to withstand. It wu
Alfred who led on the bands of punishment; Alfred irfw
seemed to hiivc risen from his grave, to destroy them in his wrathi

* Astounded at his name and presence, and surprised in all tbc
carelessness of fancied security, the Danes could only oppose
ihc fierceness of the attack, by hasty assemblages of wild tumul-
tuous numbers. But these fell before the skilful assault of the
r.nglisli King. The plain was strewed with their hosts : part fled
to a neighbouring fortification, and Alfred was left the ma&ter of
that important field, whicli exalted him from the marshes and
penury of jElhelingey to the throne of England. The King, with
vigon)US judgment, followed the Danes to their fortress, and
surrounded it so closely that every reinforcement was precluded.
Fourteen days the besieged lingered in unavailiu* distress, aitd
then, oppressed with hunger and famine, and worn down by
fatigue and dismay, humbly supplicated the mercy of the con-
queror.

The clemency of Alfred was eri«al to his valor; and on this
occasion it appears to have been governed by the most refined
policy. His comprehensive genius had conceived the magnani-
mous design of binding them with the peaceful obligations of
civilization and Christianity. The immediate conditions which he
inipoiicd, were oaths that they should leave his dominions ; the

■ delivery of liostagi's; and an agreement to abandon Paganism,
»nd embrace the tenets of the Christian religion. Gothrum, or
Gothrun, the Danish chief, readily acceded to his terms, and
was buplixcd with thirty of his principal otliccrs. Alfred then
permitted him to colonize £ast-Angha, and settled the limits ol
their respective territories by a Ircaly which still exists.

The icign of Alfred from his restoration lo his deaih was wise
and prosperous. The gri'Hi object of bis care was lo fortify '■«
kingdom agaiast hostile ancks. He rebuilt the qiks and eui^

RERKSIItHB. 147

which had been destroyed; constractcd new fortifications in
every useful place; tuid, availing himaelf of liis insular silualion,
created a naval iinnament for the protection of his coast. To
kim, therefore, is Britain indebted for the proud bulwarks of
to him may be ascribed that security from invasion
Mfaich she now enjoys.

The increase of Scandinavian population wa* so rapid for seve-
■1 centuries, that numerous swarms were continually pouring
im the north in search of new bcttlements. Accustomed to
jf&Tc, and restrained by no ties, they fell ui)on the southern
Dvince^ of EiUrnpe like the scourges of dedulalion. England
ts again destined lo become the scene of their barbarity ; but
■ defetisive precautions of Alfred were such, as the means and
^sitioR of the impetuous invaders could never effectually
thstand. Various bodies of piratical visitants were successively
inbated, and as uftcn forced to retire to their siiips with dimi-
iicd forces. The navy of Alfred completed their dismay, ami
r B considerable period his kingdom enjoyed rejKHe.
Fifteen years had now elapsed since the .Monarch's restoration,
id he had emploved that interval in executing every scheme
■ich his wisdom had formed for the improvement and protection
bis people: but lib (juiet was once more interrupted, and he
B compelled to abandon' the arts of peace for an unremitted
lertion of sagacity and courage. The veteran Hastings, who
id been employed in raiaging the continent for thirty years,
irrhed to Uoulogne, and eutlecting a dectof 300 ships, under-
dIe to wrestle with Alfred for his throne. 'Ilie^trugglc was long
d dreadful; three sumnien had completed their revolution, be-
wtt was decided. Tlie superiority of the Monarch was at length
iiufesled; and Hastings, yielding indignantly to his evil fortune,
disbanded his despairing followers, and left the kingdom. Durii^
this contest, Alfred is said to have obtained pos^-ssion of the
Sfttiish Aeet, by di!;;giiig three new channels in the vicinity of tlie
T Lea, by which the walers were drawn oil', and Iht ships left
'eablc on the ground.

L 2 TU

148 SEftKSBIHE.

The last efforts of expiring invasion were cnnfined to the sea-
coasts, where the freebooters carried on a pinilical warfare, more
galling than any regular attack. To these no mercy could be
shown; and many who were taken, wt^rc irit^d as the common
enemies of mankind, and executed at Winchester. This Hell-
timed severity, combining with the naMil awl ii}ililtiry repulalion
which Alfred had now acquired, secured the tranquillity of Ihe
Vfeation during the remainder of his reign. The last three yeara of
his life were devoted to the arts most glorious for a king to cul-
tivate. The encouragement he guve to literature, and the wisdom
of his judicial institutions, softened the ferocious manners of his
subjects, and diffused prosperity and happiness througji a land to
which they had hitherto been strangers, lite scene of his cxi^
tence was at length terminated. The hand of time had unfolded
the evolutions of his destiny. I le was called from the world, oD
the 26lh of October, in the year 900 or 901,

The virtues of Alfred have so emblazoned the page of history,
that many of his biographers have forgotten that he was a niaii.
Alfred hnd/aults ; but ihcy were like the shadoivs which glide ovei
the summer grass : it is the surroundii^ radiance which occasions
us to perceive them, and the momentary obscuration lasts only
while we gaze. As conspicuous iu the aniials of time as the cu-
tnet in the paths of heaven, a luminous stream of praise has al-
ways accompanied his name : but the pencil of truth has do ik-
vorite. The recording angel wept to register his errors,* and the
inscription was blotted with the tears. This sentence only is
l^blc ; The amendment of hit conduct was a ciniseqnence of kit
adversiti/. 11k sequel of bis reign, which was one unvaiied course
of virtue and intelligence, attests that his fortunate humiliation
dbciplined hJs temper, purified his heart, and enlightened his
understanding.

The debiieation of his varied attainments, and the description
of his patriotic institutions, we must leave to the more diffusive
pages of the historian. The space we have already allotted to b»

- ••Tbc icciuing Spiril, which flew ap to hoven'i ctiancery with the oKh,
bliuhcd *■ he give it io; nul the ncording Angel, u he wrote it down, dn^ •
tear upon the word, and UoCted it out Cat ever. Stikhi. >

B£RK9IlIItB,

149

My, precludes the particular record of those establi diluents
b the benelits of his wisdom have descended to poaipiity.
Ktat the outline of liis character may be drawn in a lew words:

b.FltED WAS TME TkIEND of IIIH CoUHTHV; TI]E Father

H HIS Peoplk; the Patriot King,"

' Joseph Butler, a learned divine, was born in this town in
eyear 1692. His part-nta being dissenters, he was educated
I a seminarj- of similar principles in Ciloucesienhire, where*
B eminent Dr. ^Vatts became his fellow pupil. Beiii^ resolved
o the established church, he removed, in 1714, to
iel College, Oxford, and fortunately contracted an iiilimHte
JHendship with Mr, Edward Talbot, son of the Bishop of Diirhnm,
by whose interest he was appointed rector to the rich benefices
of Houghton and Stanhope in that bi>.Iiti[)ric. He was afterivards
made chaplain to Lord Chancellor Talbot, and clerk of the closet
to Qncen Caroline. Having been honored with several inler^
mediate preferments, he was promoted to the see of Durliam;
but enjoyed his dignity but two years. He died at Hath in 17^2,
rticncc his remains were carried to Bristol, and interred in the
Aboy church. His writings display an enlarged and comprchen-
e mind. One of his publications, the " Analogy of Religion,"
^rded as'a most valtmblc performance,

EAST-HEN DR ED,

TiioL'GH now reduced to a small village, was, at the time of
the suppression of the monasteries, a considerable market-town. It
borders on the Vule of White Horse, at the foot of the downs,
under the large barrow called Cnckhamalej-Hill. The parish
contains five manors, four of which were originally in the posses-
sion of different religjous houses. The first and principal manor
belonged to the priory of Carlhusian monks at Sheen, in Surrey,
L L 3 on

W** Tbc (ubtluiec of ihii bingnpliicil ikeuh n cumpoKil of excuipU froni Mr.
Tninet-i ulusbl* HUloty nf ihc Akclo-Saxoh.. The ficu there tKoitliH
arc lUppDiicci by cornet ttkiVKCt, and eitncU from the laboun of the ancitnt

150 BERKSHIRE.

on w|iicli it was bestoxvpd by Henry the Rfth. It wai this Mo-
narch that f^nted the charter for a weekly market, *aA two
fairs annually, with exemption from all taxes, and the liberty of
punishing criniinak taken within the district. The second mwior
was part of the pos^ses^ions of Reading abbey, liitving been ^veo
to that monastery by the Empress Mnnd. Hie third was the pio-
ocrty of the abbey nt Abingdon; and the fowrlh, of the New

^^ollegc, Oxford; and we believe that it still belong to that fcran-
dation. We arc informed by a Ti-p«1nble author,* that ft piece of
luid in this place, with m appurtenances, of the yearly value of
fife thJIUnp, wa< held by the tenure of re]>eating a Patfr^nottrr

■ daily for the health of the King's soul. The holder was called
Jobn Pater-noster, probably, from ihi-^ circumstance. A road
leadii^ to West-Hendred is still called Pafrr-noKler banoke. TTie
foundations of several buildings, aiul cavities ovei«rown with grass,
•apposed to have been wells, were discovered here Bl>0\it the be-
lliinning of the last century. Tlje number of houses in this villa^
U about 130.

WALLING FORD.

Amidst the multifarious subjects that come under the review
of a topographer, there are few so ambiguous and perplexing ns
the task of making the ancient names of places accord with the
appellations they have received in more niodein times. Many of
the stations mentioned in Ihe Itinerary have completely baffled
the sagacity of antiquaries; and their researches, instead of t«-
moving difficulty, have only tended to the indulgence of specula-
fion, and the increase of hypothesis,

Walfingford is evidently of great antiquity; but its origin has
never been satis&cturily explained. Some have referred it to the
Britons, and contended, that it is the Catlna Aitrebatum of An-
toninus ; whilst others have placed the chief city of the Attre-
■ BATH at Famhara,+ in Surrey; Silchestcr,! in Hampshire; and
ti^iiley,§ in Oxfordshire.

IliOl^
• BlouBL t Slukdy. Silmon. % Wird. Honely.

If Gilc Hnmt.

fiEKKSHIHE.

Tliougb the validity of the arguments which ascribe this town
to a British origin, may be ciiutested, yet there seems »aflicicnt
evidence to warrant the belief of its having been a Roman settle-
r. Gough observer, iii his additions tu Camden, " that
e outer work of tlio castle is evidently Roman ; and in a frag-
t of the wall at the entrance, the atones arc laid herring-
t fashion, just as in the walls at Silchcstcr;" and adds, that
^manuscript note, now in his possession, in the hand writing oA

r. Gale, asserts, that, " Many coins of GortiJaii, Posthumiis,
IK^ktorinus, and tlic Tetrici, were dug up in the town of Walling-
, ID August, 1736; and aficr«ards some of Vespasian and
Kllienus." Camden supposes that the name Collera was a.
ittake of the transcribers for Galleua, derived from the British
tal-Hai, the old rortilication ; which name, in his opiniou,
it still retains with the addition o( ford; its present name being
contracted from the Suxon Guallaig-a-ford. lliis etymology
is rendered plausible, by the shallowness of the stream in the
neighbourhood nf the town,
M|k Wsllingford is situated on the banks of the Thames, over which
Httere is H long stone bridge of considerable uutiquity, supported
^H|y nineteen arches. This fabric, from its appearaucc, seems to
^be with the oldest structure of the kind on the river, though the
HHne of ita erection caiuiut be ascertained. The pointed angular
Sterlings on the upjiersidc arc so well constructed as to be capable
of resisting the most violent floods; and the whole appears to be
of immense strength.
t .^ Near the river side, the mouldering ruins of the ancient castle,
^ick; ID the estimation of former ages, was regarded as impreg-
, may yet be discovered; but ihey give no idea of that
ingth which regal armies once besieged in vain, Beitft of its
roud towei?, and formidable walls, it excites no passion but
inility. 'i'he astonishment which its size and niagnificence for-
merly impressed on the beholder, is no lunger felt; its glories arc
departed ; its importance is no more. " The castle," says Caroden,
"is environed with a double wall and double ditch; and in the
Iniddk, on a high artificial hill, stands the citadel, in the ascent

g ^ dt

152 BERKSHIRE.

to which, by steps, I have seen a well of immense tlepth/' Le^
land, who saw this fortress some years prior to Camden, describes
it, as having '^ three dykes large and deep, and well watered;
and continues, '* abotit each of the two first dykes, as upon the
crest of the ground cast out of them, runneth an embattled wall^
now sore in ruins, and for the most part defaced. All the goodly
buildings with the towers and dungeons be within the third dyke.
%hcre is also a collegiate chapel among the buildings within the
third dyke/' In this dilapidated state the castle probaUy remained
till the civil wars, when an order,* signed by Thurlow, Crom-
well's Secretary, was issued for its total demolition. AVhen Mr.
Gough visited Wallingford, in the year 1768, he observed that»
*^ the outer west rampart, planted with trees; and the outer and
inner south ones, disposed in garden grounds ; were exceedingly
bold and fresh. The outer north one, is in com fields; and the
side is single, being defended by the river. This last is broken
into two bastions, or outworks, to which correspond t^vo others
on the north side. Some fragments of the walls remain in houses,
and part of the east pier of the principal gate, on the south east
corner of the inner bank. 1 he kcep,-t of considerable height,
falls into the south-east corner of the inner works." The recent
date of this gentleman's description has left us nothing to add ;
the alterations that have since taken place being too trivial to be
mentioned.

This castle, as we have already stated, 'appears to have been
built by the Romans; but has successively fallen into the power
of the Saxons, Danes, and Normans. When Sueno, in revenge
for the general massacre ol' his countrymen, ravaged England

about

f
• This order was in the possession of an Alderman of the town, who died

a few years since.

+ As the meaning of this word, which frequently occurs in the description
of castles, is not universally known, it may be expedient to inform our readers,
that the Keep was the citadel or last retreat of the garrison, built on an artificial
eminence, raised generally in the centre of the castle. It was often' surrounded
by a ditch with a drawbridge, and a machiolaUdyOT pierced gate, through which
Kalding water, or boiling lead, might be poured on the assailants.

BERKM1IRE. 153

tbout the year IOO6, he is &up[ioM.-il lo have dcstroycl part of its
fortificatiom : but ii soenis to have been repaired ami erilai^ged by
Widiam the Conqueror, at which time we learn, tVoni ihe Uonics-
day Book, eight houses were demolished to inuke way for the
CBStk. This Monarch is aaid to have encamped at Wullingford
on bis way lo Loudon, after the dcleal of Harold.

During tlie sionas of civil war which the ambition of Stephen
had bruught upon his country, thiii town was subjected to all the
imrton of a sie^e. The castle was then in the possession of
Brimtiut t'itz Comit, who had married the heiress of the manor.
The Empress Matilda, the usurper's mortal foe, was inclosed
within its walla. This drcumslance gave wings to destruction.
The fury of the assaiianti was increased by the iiuality and im-
portance of (heir expected prize; the vigor of the besieged
received addilioiial animation from the presence of the female
whos^ cause they had undertaken to defcFid. The assaults of
the King proved fruitle)^ ; ihe strength of liic place, and the
bravery of the gaiTison, resisted his utniost exertions.

Force being unavailing, Stephen had recourse to policy. lie
surrounded the ca&tlc with a line atrcngthencd by forts, the prin-
cipal of which he named Crauemtrse ; and also abut up the
passage of the garrison over (he Thames, by erecting a 'strong
fort at the head of the bridge. Those whom he was unable to
subdue by courajje, he resolved 10 overcome by hunger; and the
place wat reduced to ihai extremitj, that the governor found it
necessary to send to France, to apprize Henry, Matilda's son,
afterwards Henry the Second, of his moiher's danger. The

immediately came to England, and encamping before the

besieged the besiegers, by encompassing their works wiib
B line of circumvallation ; thus defeuiing the projects of'Slephcn
by acting on his own plans. Soon afreriviirds, the Monarch ad-
vanced, with the intent of giving the I'rince battle; but the

being kept asunder by the floods, the ecclesiastics, and
lilityof both parlies, had op|iortuuity to persuade the rivals
empire, to agree to a conference. This being held on the

of the Thames, it was determined that Stephen should

^ id al
Hfenct
pSutle,

154 BBftKSBtKS^

enjoy the crown during his life, and that Henr}' should raceeed
him. On tlic conclusion of the peace, Brientius, and hi* wife,
devoted tlicmselves to religion ; and the honor of Wallingford
reverted to the King.

By a passage in Doine.sc1ay Book, there appears to have been
376 houses in this town, at the time of the survey, " yielding a
tax of 1 ll." Tliis number continued to augment till about the
year 1348, when the population wa^ considerably diminished by
a dreadful plague. Some idea of the importance of WalUi^nl
at tki$ period may be derived from Ijclajid, who describes it ai
being surnmiided nith a wall, " ^oing in coinpuce a good mile or
more;" and says, that, by the pB.teiits and donations of Ldward,
Earl of Cornwall, and lord of this manor, " there were I'uurteen
pari-jh churches In Wallingford ; and thei-e be men alive that can
show the places and ceractarics wherein ihcy all stood. At thi»
time," continues Lelond, " there be Uut ibree poor parish chuiches
in the town." The building of CuLham and Uorchcster bridges is
Mtd to have contributed lo the decay of Wallingtbrd, as great
put of tbc traflic was by that means removed to Abingdon, and
other contiguous placeii.

Though the combination of the above circumstances have con-
aidembly diminislied the ancient mugiiilictnce of this town, it is
■till a place of consequence, and has of ble yean been much
increased both with houses and inhabitants. It consists of two
prtttcipal streets, and is supposed to contain about 1800 people,
who arc chiefly employed in agriculture and malt-making. 'J'hi«
trade ik in a very fioiirishiu^ stale; ihc deiii»nd amounting to
upwards of 130,000 bushels Annually. Much ol the imprcveiseBt
of Wallingford is owing to the late Sir WilUam lilackstone, thnn^
whose generous exertions two new turnpike-roads have been
Ibnnedi the one opening a communication between Oxford and
Beading, by means of a new bridge over the Thames at SheUing*
ford i the other leading to Wantage, through the VaXe of While
Hone.

Wallingford contaitu three churches; St. Mary's, St. Leo-
utni'Si and St. Peter's: the latter was rebuilt about forty

year*

Kising II

nan since, and was then ornaineiitod witli a spire of a very sin-
gular form, at the sole espence of the eiiiiiii-nt ppreoii above inen-
tioDnd. During the civil wars, when tlic town was garristmed
■ the King, two churches were entirely deslrojeU, and onl^ a
kail part of another left standing. Men; are also four dissenting
eetin^-houses, for the respective denoniiiiations of Methodists,
ns, Baptists, and Cjuakers.

as a borough in the reign of Edward the Conlessor, and
1 sent members to parliament from the 23d year of 1:^ ward
The right of election is in the corporation, and Inha-
inb paying scot and lot, and not receiving ultns. The number
? b about 140. The rents of the manor, and the revenues
g frum the markets and l^rs, arc said to be vested in ihe
Wporation, which, by the charier of James the HiM, consiatt
a mayor, high steward, recorder, six aldermeu, (who act as
within the borough,) a town clerk, a chamberlain, and
n bui^sscs. The assize:, have sometimes been held in the
ill, a convenient, well-built structure: here ulso, the bu-
ll of the ijuarter sessions for the borough, which is a distinct
iiisdiction, is always executed.

e pour in (he parish of St. Mary are provided with food and
lotliing by a coniractur, who receives 300L annually fur that
nrpose; the parish finding medicines, &c. The indigent of St.
mnard's are relieved at their own houses.
I The introduction of a woollen or linen manufacture would,
■rhops, be serviceable to this part of the countiy. A mixture
f agriculture and manufactures, more especially when the latter
1 scattered through a country, seems to be the most cRectiial
ttethod of keeping the poor in constant employment. Country
Bianufaclurers escape the immorahty and dissipation too much
pnnnecied with large towns; and have this furtiier advantage,
in the occasional stagnation to which all manufuctures are
ect, or upon an unusual demand for ugriculiural kljor, they
vary their occupation ; a mode of life which is not more
lucivc to the health than cuugenial to the natural disposjliout
aankind.* The

i^ BBRKSRISK,

The manor of Wallingford was granted by Rictisnl the First to
his brother John, whose second son, Kichard, King of the Ro-
mans, Earl of Cornwall, repaired the caslle, -and celebrated his
wedding in it with considerable splendor ; his guests consisting of
Henry the Third, his Queen, and many of the nobility. On the
death of Richard, it devolved to his son Edmund, together with
the advowsons of all ihc churches. When he died, his estates
became the property of King Edward, whom he had chosen for
his heir, Edward the Second bestowed it, together with the
Duchy of Curnwal), to whirh it had been annexed, on Piers
GavestoD) and afterwards on Hugh de Spencer the elder, hi;, un-
fortunate fav'irites, both of whom were bcheAdod. Edward ne]t(
presented it lo his Queen Isabella, from whom il deHrerxled
to Edward ihc Third, who gave it, with other manors, for the
support of the Dukedom of Cornwall, a title lirst conferred en
his son Edward the Black Prince in the year 1355. It remained
vested in the rojal family till the roign of Henry the Eighth, when
that Mbnarcti granted it to Wolsey for tlic use of the magnilicent
College of Christ Church 0_\ford, which the Cardinal had found-
ed. On \Volifj's disgmce, the castle appears to have been
separated frrjm the manor, the latter being annexed to Yew EIra,
or New Elm, in Oxfonlsliire, and uftetwards given by James the
Rrst to Prince Charles, the former remaining in possession of the
college'.

Criminals in the borough of Wallingford were formerly invested
with a very extraordinary privilege; their lives for a lirst offence
being in their own power, provided they complied with certain
conditions. A return made by the jurors in the forty-fifth year
of Henry the Third, declared that no person belonging to the
borough, for one fact committed by him, ought to be hanged:
" Nam sectindtim consuetuiiinum istiii!» Burgi, debet oeils, el
testiculis privari, el tali libcrtate usi sunt i tempore quo non
eictat memtiria."

The farms in the neighbourhood of this town are large, bring
from 200 to 3001. a year. The chief articles of cultivation ate
turnips, clover, barley, wheat, and oats. The crop* a»o gene-
lally very exuberant^ Amoi^

tte cuursc of the s
Abing mid flowing of tite sc
s kinJ at that time
Itbbey church. The latter
its [lubliiihcd by the lean
Xnglish HiHtories,

BBRKSHIRK. 157

Among the natives of this town whose taleots have rendered

Aem more particularly deserving of notice, are Richard, ab-

lot of St. Albun's, anil Juiin, a monk of the same place. The

wrmcr wtifl an einiiii-'iit mathematician, and the inventor u( a cu-

s clock, which, according to Leland, represented not only

, and principal stars, but also the

. Thi* machine, the most ingeni-

in England, lie presented to the

va% an historian, whose chronicle

•A Dr. Gale, in his Collection of

south of Wallingford, was
most compact in England;

"Choljey Farm, abonl two m

fcrmcriy reputed to be the largest

0R rent amounting to a lOOOl. minually. Before the dissolution
the monasteries, the manor belonged to Reading, whose abbot
id a splendid seat here. The Great Barn, wherein he is said
Jiavc deposited his tithes, is yet standing. It measures 101
rds in length, and 18 in breadth. The roof h supported by
jNllars on each side: these ri<e it to a prodigious height in
e Contre, but suffer it to decrease gradually towards the walls,
lich are nut more than 8 feet high. The pillars are four yards
circumference. It is now the property of Lord Kenaingto%
1 was fonuerly in the possession of the Earl of Warwick.

SiKODUN Hn.i., nearly one mile and a half north-west of
lllJngfurd, un thf banks of the Thames, is surrounded by a
ep Trench, and was once the site of a Roman fort, which
hnd conjectures to have been destroyed by the Danes. Tlie
nmit is now cultivated ; and it produces very good wlieat
and barley. ^Vhon the land was first ploughed, Roman coins
were fretjufnlly discovered. Mr. Gough imagines it to have been
S tummer camp, to protect Dorchester in Oxfordshire.

ABINGDON.

108 BlEKSaiftI*

ABINGDON.

The ori^n of this town is enveloped in uncertainty. Some
hflN supposed it to be a settlement of the Britons on their con-
version to Christianity ; and this opinion they have endeavoured to
substantiate, by adducing the cross, and other relics of devotion,
which the Saxons were said to have discovered here after, they
had expelled the ancient inhabitants ; and also by the following
legendary tale, which has been preserved in some of the early
chronicles.

*' At the time when the wicked pagan Hengist basely murdered
460 noblemen and barons at Stonhengest, or Stonehenge ; Absv,
a noblemanf s son, escaped into a wood on the south side of Ox-
fordshire, where leading a most holy life, the inhabitants of. the
country flocking to him to hear the word of God, built him a
dwelling-house and a chapel in honour of the Holy Vii^n ; but
be, disliking their resort, stole away to Ireland ; and from him the
place where he dwelt is called Abingdun/'

This story is regarded by other writers as undeserving of belief,
and the foundation of the town ascribed to the Saxons, by whom
it appears to have been called Seukeaham^ Shoeveshamy or Seore-
c^sham; the word being differently spelt by various writers.
** As soon as Cissa, King of the West-Saxons, founded the monas-
tery or abbey here, it gradually dropt its older name, and . beg^
to assume that of Abhandmi and Ahbingdonj i. e. the Town of the
Abbey."* This derivation is rendered plausible by the circum-
stance of Shoevesham having been granted to the abbey by
Kenwin, who governed the West-Saxons after Cissa ; and at the
time he conferred the valuable gift, gave orders that it should in
future be called Ahaidun,\

To whatever age or people the colonization of this spot may be

attributed, it is certain that it had arrived at considerable impor-

' tance at a very early period. An anonymous writer observes,

" that it was in ancient times a famous city, goodly to behold,

full

* Camden. f Dugdalt.

ftill of riches, encompassed with very fruitful fields, green i
dows, spuciuus pastures, and flocks of cattle abounding ^vith
milk. 1 lere the King kept his court, and hither the people resorted
vhilc (Consultations were depending about the greatest and most
weighty iitTairs of the kingdom." Mr. Gough imagines it to be the
place where sereral synods were held in the eighth and ninth ccn-
MKit^ ; the first as early as the year 742.

The monastery was founded by Cissa, already mentioned, and

tnc, his nephew, the vice-riy of Wilts, and part of Berkshire,

!& 67a. It was begun at Bagley-Wood^* about two miles higher

but not prospering there, was removed to Seuke-

■;»Ki(^
Klsai

■ 1- Ht

•' 'ITiere were twelve mansions about this monastery at first,
and as many chnpels inhabited by twelve monks, without any
cloister, but shut in with a high wall ; none being allowed to go
out without great necessity, and the abbot's leave. No woman
ever entered the same; and none dwelt there but the twelve
monks and the abbot. Tliey wore black habits, and lay on
ttckcloth, never eating flesh, unless in dangerous sickness.!"
' In the reign of Alfred it was destroyed by the Danes, and con-
tinued desolate, and in ruins, till the year 951, when, through
Vbe cunning jiolicy of Dunstan, nho, to promote his own schemes,
15 endeavouring to (ill the kingdom with Qcnedictlne institutions,
y&d thejtersuasions of Ethetwolcl, afterwards Bishop of Winchester,
g Edgar restored some part of its ancient magnificence. Ethel-
K>ld, who was appointed abbot the same year, cnlaVged the
Ronasicry, and cuu'ied a trench to be cut from the Thames, for
bs convenience and cleanliness. He likewise erected the abbey
^mrch, and embellished it with many costly ornaments. Suc-
xeding abbots increased its splendor ; and soon after the conquest
ti wcklth and grandeur are said lo have been equal to any simi-
kr foundation in England.

• Hcaine tonj«lurePi (hit pUce lo be Chiliwell-Fami, M Lha v.tK cad ol

Hinktey-Fidd, oat Foxcomb-Uilii

t MoaiiticDn.

\SQ BBRKSlltliB.

About this time the buiklingB appear to have undeigone greftt

alU^nitions; but the accounts are so confused, that the particulus

can hiirdly be comprehended. Leland says, that ** Fabricius lemoyed

the old churchy which then stood more northerly, where now

th6 orchard is, and made the east part and transept new, adom-

ing it with small marble pillars." Fabricius died in 11 17. The

central tower, the body of the church, and the west front, with.

Its towers, were erected by four succeeding abbots. In this

state it appears to have remained till the dissolution, when the

splendid &bric was entirely destroyed ; with the exception of the

Gate-House, which has since been converted into a goal. Its

revenues were valued at nearly 20001. a year.

This immense income arose from the various possessions
mnd immunities which had been granted to the abbey by difierent
princes. The Kings Ina, Kenulph, £thelwulph, Edred, Ed-
gar, &c. and various other Monarchs, may be numbered with
its benefactors. Kenulph endowed it with fifteen mansions, called
Oulnamy and all their appurtenances, as an inheritance for over ;
and at rhe same time exempted it from all episcopal jurisdiction,
declaring, by his charter, that all causes should be subject to the
decree of the abbot only. The celebrdted lawyer. Sir Edward Coke,
inferred from this deed, that the ecclesiastical jurisdiction had al-
ways been invested in the Crown, consequently that the statute
made in the reign of Flenry the Eighth, concerning the King's
spiritual authority, was not an introductory but a declaratory
law, and therefore ought not to be regarded as the assumption of
a new prerogative. Pope Eugenius the Third, in the year 1146,
confirmed all the grants that had been made to the abbey, and
favored it with some additional privileges.

Previous to the invention of printing, and the general diffusion
of knowledge occasioned by that important art, the business of
tuition was chiefly confined to the cloister. The boaom of the
monk was the only depositary of the sciences, and to him it was
necessary to apply before the fountiiin of instruction could be
set flowing. When William the Conqueror departed from Abing-
don, whei-c he had passed his Easter in the year 1084, he intrusted

the

BERKSKinE,

iSl

education of Henry, his youngest son, to the inmates of the
Woniislery, wlto appvar to liave executed ihc important charge
"With fidelity ; the learning of the Prince having procured him the
Vurname of Btauclrrk.

■' The abbey became the burial-place of many illustrious pereoos.
I^e remaina of Cissa, the joint-founder, were interred within its
but every vestige of hia memory was destroyed by the
Geoffrey of Monmouth, St. Vincent, Sidemanne Bi&bop
Crediton, and Robert D'Oiiy, were among ihe eminent cha-
!}aciers whose bones were here committed to the silent tomb. The
*elic4 of Edward the Martyr were also, according to Lelimd,
preserved in this fabric.

On the sifppressioti i)( the religious houses by Henry the Eighth,
the monks of Abingdon were charged with the most gross incon-
tinence. The abbot, in particular, was not only accused of
maintaining three courtezans, but also of an incestuous intercourse
with his own eister, by whom be is said to have had two children.
accusation, in all probability, originated with the contrivers
he many absurd reports to the pnyudice of monasteries,
1 at that period were thought necessary to further the designs
of the rapacious Henry. I'he Monarch himself appears to
have given if no credit, since, we are informed, that he invested
the abbot with the park and mansion of Cumnor, and other lands,
besides granting him a pension of 2001. yearly. The name of this
prelate was Thomas Pentecost, alias Rowland: he subscribed to
the royal supremacy in the year 1534, and surrendered his mo-
.tery the 9th of February 1538. The abbey was miti-ed, and
[dedicated tu St. Nicholas.

This was not the only religious establishment that existed in
lingdon; for Cissa,* sister to Hcane, founded a nunnery near
Thames, called Helnestow, of which she afterwards became
Abbess; and having obtained '' a small piece of one of our
it's naiU, placed it in a cross, and dedicated the monastery
Holy Cross and St. Helen. f" On the death of Cissa, the
.. I. M, ouiu

' Soc Dugd^lc. CamdEn nyi, Cilia, aiiui of King CeidwilU.
f SLcvcni'* Addilioiu iq the Monuiicon.

l62 BERKSHIRE.

nuns were remnved to Wiihftm, whence they dispersed at Ae
commencement of Uie war between OtTa, King of the Mercians,
and Kinewulph, the Sovereign of the West Saxons.

Previous to the construction of Burford and Culli&ni Bridges,
in the year 14)6, this town was principally supported by tUe ab-
bey ; but ihe building of those fubrics having occasioned the high
road from Gloucester to the metropolis to be turned through
Abingdon, it acquired so much additional traffic, as to rank
with the most distinguished places in the county. The honor of
erecting these bridges has been ^ven to Henry the Fifth ; but the
chief contributor to both was GeolTrey Barbour, a merchant, who
gave 1000 marks towards their completion, and the making a
causeway between them. Some particulars concerning this bene-
faction, and a curious relation of the proceedings at the buildii^
of Culham Bridge, arc inscribed on a tablet* hanging in Christ's
Hospital, which was founded on the site of the nunnery just men-
tioned, by G. Barbour, and St. John de St. Helena. This hos-
pital was anciently called St. Helen's, but received its present
appellation from Sir John Mason, who, in the year 155:),
endowed it for thirteen poor men and women. *

clhcs

HOSPITIA II«C

SUNT A. D. MDCCXVHI.

\ QUO, ET AD QVEM OMNI'

Is FAUFEKITU LEVANEN
X REDITIBUS QUI HOSPITA

rsTi Abivgdonessi accrB'

Ejitsdem sum

DEU3 dbdii

Incr

■n»

itiyioe. Lcli

criptioD is in Latin, and hu been printed tiy Hvii
Lcnry, uid ilio by Aihmole, together with a quainl tniulaiion in
id 4»yi, " Ther wtought thmamei 300 men on Culhim bridge. "
rvei, tll»^ ■' The be« artiiU that tould be found wc.c etnployej,
,0 had a pfnny a day, which wai the best wiget. and an exlraordi.
I thoie time*, wbca tbo bcH wheM WH now ind then aold for

BERKSHIRS. ifiS

The memory of Gcotftey Barbour is still held in great vcnera-
^n by the inhabitaiUs of Abin^Ion; tuid we- are informed by
Hearne, that his body, "hirh had been buried in ihe nbliey, was
translated to St, Ilflm's Church, in the mo«t solemn ninnner, at
the time of the suppre«sion of the mnnastericn. The respect
which the services he had rendered to the town had generated,
was even extended to the brass plate that recorded the place of
his interment, which wu preserved from obliterntion amidst all
the freniy of fanstieism. ami remmed, with hii remains, to St.
Catherine's aisle in the above structure.

The celebrated Cross, which stood in the centre of the marlet-
(ilace, and is mentioned by Camden un account of its inperior
■l^ance, was destroyed the 3lst of May, I6"4*, by the troops of
iGeneral Waller, out of chagrin at the repulse they had received
from the royal army at Newbridge, Richiird Symmonds, who
Mw this beautiful structure but a fevr week^ previous to its demo-
lition, has given a very particular description of it in a manu-
tcripl now in the British Museum, Tlie cross was of stone, of
un octangular xhape, and adorned with throe rows of statues.
The lowest ro«' conjisled of siji graze kings ; thenext of the Virgin
Mary, four female saints, and a mitred prelate ; and the upper-
most, of small tiguies either of prophets or apostles. It was also
ornamenteil with numerous shields of arms, carved and painted.
Mr. Gough supposes it to have been built by the Gild of Holy
Cross," as the arms of Sir John Golafre, one of the commissioners
by whom that fraternity was incorporated in the reign of Henry
Ac Sixth, was, with many othori, found on it in the year l605,
M 2 when

■ H«nw, In 3 note to Leland't IiLncrary, nhiena, that it the mnu>l feutof
ftlU fraternity, " Thty iptnt iix calfi, which coji ai. ai. a piece; sixteen Uinbi,
ttiad. ochi eighty caponi, ii 3d. each; iwenty jecM, at 1(1!. CKh; tootfgt,
M 31I. pn 1OO1 haldti msiy mirraw-bonu. much fruit and ipice, ud ■ great
^Mnlky dE milk, cmm, and Souii ill in propoition to die pncta ipecifledj
(fkl upua ihoe diyi g[ icjoibiiig wuhal, they lusd la hav* twtivo niiiMnlti
gia. from Coieniry, uiU lix fnim MaMenhead; foi which, md (ur other uie*
of Ihe fraternity, Wi'/'m Dtat. vicai nf Btay, in B«ki, gavcthan tivel
SCiw St Hden'tStiecl, ihiec lenratnu in Wul Si. Hdw-Slrm, :
Inula la Abingdon.

I
I

l64 BERKSHIRE.

when it was repaired, and the shields of the then benefactors
added. The cross erected at Coventry, in the days of Henry the
Eighth, is reported to have been built from this model.

Abingdon consists of several streets, which centre in a spa-
cious area, where the market Is held. In the agricultural survey
of this county, the inhabitants are computed at 2000 ; many of
whom are cinployed in an extensive manufactory for floor and
sail-cloths, and other articles of tliat dcsciiption. In Leland's
time, the woollen business flourished here; but the chief article
of trade of late years has been malt, great quantities being anna-
ally sent down the Thames to London. For the convenience tof
tho bargps, a handsome wharf has been completed at the eztze*
mity of the town, beyond which the new cut, forming a tmall
cune, joins the main river a short distance below Culham
Bridge. The market-house and town-hall is a veiy remarkable
stnicture, being built with ashler, or freestone roug^ as it comes
from the quarr)'. It appears to have been erected about the
commencement of the last centur}-. Hie hall is supported by
arches and lofty pillars. At the time of a county election, the
ftpace beneath is judiciously inclosed, and the names of the
respective hundri\is inscribed over each arch. By this means the
cn>wd and bustle so frequent at elections is avoided, is the jlree-
holdcr can n*adily ascertain where the poll is taken for his
district, and may give his vote without interruption. The houses
are o>timated at aln^ut 4oO.

I'ho corporation consists of a mayor, two baili£Es nine alder-
men, and Mxtecn ;is>istants. llieir charter was granted by Queen
Miir\ in tho \car loJ7« tit tho intorcossion of Sir John Mason;
and tho flight o\ oUvtion vosto\i in the twelve principal burgesses
and thoir succossor^. Tho exertions of the inhabitants have,
howoxor, suporsodiM this unjust limitation, and e\'ery one payiflg
scot and lot is ontitU\l to vote. Tho number of electors is about
600. This U^Tv^Uj^h s«ut to Parliament once previous to iU
incorpoimtion« upon nrceiving a peremptory stunmoos in the tenth
of Lawaid the l^rd.

Abingdon

AUngdon contains the two churches of St. Helen and St. Nicho*
lu. The former is situated near the river, and appe&is to have

in altered and enlarged at diH'erent periods. Over the south
porch, on a shield supported by an angel to the waist, are the
ktter!i T. R. beneath, the date 1543: and nver a smaller porch,
« the west end, are the figures ifil/. The spire is lofty, being

?d on a tower decorated with pinna
built by Abbot Nicholas, near the o
the abbey, some lime between the yeai
fltalrance on the west is adorned in the
Hnaments. The gate-house, which adji
■led as the common
very ruinous iitate.

^. The latter ehui
iide of the west gale of
12H9 and 1307. The
ixon style, with zigzag
IS this fabric, has been
goal for nearly a century, but is now in a
image of the

Virgin. I^ere are three meeting-houses for Dissenters of difibrent
^nominations.

The sums collected for charitable purposes amount to about
^P0\. a year : part of this is ajipropriated to support a free-school,
-founded in tliQ year 15tiS, by Mr, John Royse, to which many
eminent characters arc indebted for their rudiments of learning.

.Among ihcm, arc Clement Barksdale, who wrote ihe life of

iQrolius; Job Roys, a Presbyterian writer; and Sir Edward Tur-
90UT, Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer in itijl.

Henry the Eighth visited liiis town several times; and here,
in the year 151S, he received the homage of the university of
pxfurd. During the civil wars, it was garrisoned for the King,
■nd afterwards underwent the common fate of fortified places,
many of the buildings being defaced, and the inliabiiaiits plunder-
•d by the opposing army. The ancient earth-works in the
neighbourhood were strangely confused at that period, when both
|tof alists and Republicans applied them to military purposes.
Among the natives of Abingdon whose talents have rendered

;tlieir possessors eminent, is i^ia John Mason, a statesman of
the sixteenth century. His memory is the more worthy to be

/severed, because, from a very obscure origin, his genius and per-
Mverance advanced him to the rank of Privy-counsellor, Ambas-
ndor to France, and Chancellor of the Univeraitj- of Oxford.
M3 His

166 BB&KSHIEX.

His father was a cow-herd, and his mother sister to one of the
abbey monks, who attended to the tuition of his early years, and
afterwards sent him to Oxford, where he became a fellow of All*
Souls College. While in this situation, the liveliness of his temper
occasioned him to be chosen to compliment Henry the Eighth on
his visit to tde university in the year 1523. The graceful manner
in which he executed this commission, so engaged the favor of the
Monarch, that he carried the young student to court, and thence
lent him to Paris, to continue and complete his education. On
hift raturm h« was employed in seyeral embaBsies ; and. during dus
$pd the throe tocceeding reigns, was promoted to the honoimUe
offices above mentioned. He died in lS66f and was buried is
St. Paul's Cathedral.

FERRY HINKSEY

Is a small village on the northern boundary of the county,
nearly opposite to the city of Oxford. The ancient name appeals
to have been Hengestesiggey probably from its elevated situation;
the exact meaning of the word, as defined by a modem antiquary^
being, << a pathway on the side of a hill." The church is a low
structure, apparently of very remote origin. It consists of a
tower, a nave, and chancel. Hie south (and only) door*way is
of Saxon workmanship. The weathering, or outer moulding, b
supported on one side by the bust of a warrior ; and on the other,
is terminated with a rude head of some animal. Within this are
four series of sis-sag, with an inner moulding of pell6t sculpture,
resting on two moderate sised pillars with hatched capitals. The
nave is divided from the chancel by a circular arch, over which
the creed and Lord's prayer are inscribed, with the King's arms
painted in the centre. This church, and the neighbouring one of
South Hinksey, were formerly chapels of ease to Cumnor, whence
they were separated at the cojumencement of the last century by
Montague, Earl of Abingdon.

WITHAM,

BERKSIIIRK.

WITH AM.

A [lecajcd villiigi?, about luo miles nuith of Hiiikscy, U seated
at the fool of a hill, oil llie summit of which lliu mussivu frag-
ments of a desolated fortress may yet be <liscovercd. This is
supposed to have been erected by Kinewulph, the monarch of the
West Saxons, to repel the incursions of King Offa, into whose
n aftemards fell, and is said to liave been mode the
place of his residence. 'Hie church is small, with a boarded roof,
ipported b^ three wooden arches. Against the wall, on each
■de the nave, is a series of rude grotesque ornaments in stone,
tcsemblii^ heads, with caps similar (o those worn by canons
tegular of the order of St. Austin. In a north wiudow, near the
lirest end of the nave, are the portraits of Edward the Second and
Ibis Queen. The King is depicted with a curled beard, the hair
divided, and hanging on each side the chin. Each head is
adorned with an open crown fleury. The workmanship is but
iftdiffercntiy executed.

The ancient mansion belonging to the Earl of Abingdon, in
diis village, was erected about the reign of llcnrj the Sixth; it
•'Conveys a good idea of the glooniy manners of the times prior to
'fte relaxation if feudal tenure. The traveller who views this
itriicture, cannot but recall to his memory the fortified dun-
geons of our ancestors, whose martial, but suspicious tempers,
whilst they consulted the magnificence of petty tyranny, appear
to have forgotten convenience, and conlined their conceptions of
idcur to unsocial exclusion. The embattled tower in the
kflentre U surmounted by two octangular turrets; and the whole
edifice is surrounded by a moat. The hall remains in its original
State, and the vestiges of its former splendor are still apparent.
The battle through which Otla obtained possession of Witham
.lie, appears to have been fought at a place called Sandfield,
this nighbourhood, where llearne, in his Liber Niger, men-
tions armour, swords, and human bones, to have been found.
TraditioD represents one of the armies to have been drawn up on
Ibe declivity of Witham hill, near the desolated village of Dane-
M 4 court ;

l68 ^ERKSIIIRIS.

court ; and the other on the opposite side of Cumnor hill ; the
valley between being the immediate theatre of action. The spot
where the battle h said to have began is called Hoidesfield. What
degree of credit should be attached to these vague relations wc
cannot ascertain ; but as Hold, in the Saxon language, signifies a
carcase, the supposition of the name being significant of the
slaughter made by OH'a, may not be inadmissible.

SECKWORTH,

In the vicinity of Witham, was formerly a large town, which
wc are informed by Mr. Warton, in his History of KiddingtoOy
abounded with inns for the reception of pilgrims. This place^
reported to have once maintained the " Roman army,* has
dwindled into complete insignificance, it consisting at this time
of only^e houses. Some remains of its buildings are, however,
yet visible on the brink of the river, which separated the territories
of the Attrebatii and Dobuni ; and when the water is low, the
fragments of a bridge, crossing the stream to Binsey, may be
clearly perceived.

CUMNOR

Is about three miles south of \Vitham, built on the brow of a
hill, commanding a verj- extensive view over the counties of
Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire. The chuixh is a strong-built
edifice, and apparently ancient, as the west door is finished in the
Saxon style. The chancel is divided from the body of the
church by a screen, presented to the parish about sixty years
since by the then F.arl of Abingdon, whose family are owners of
the manor. The village contains about DO houses, and 300 inha-
hitants, who are mostly employed in husbandr}*. The parishioners
who pay t}the^, have a custom of repairing to the vicarage in^r
meiliately after prayers on Christmas-day afternoon, to be
entertained ^ith bread and cheese and ale. They claim, on this
occasion, two bushels of w heat made into broad, half a hui^dred
weight of cheese, and four busheb of malt brewed into ale and

small

EEILXSHIKE.

fill beet. The fragments are the next morning distributed ti

e crosses may be seen in different
of the parish. Tbese are supposed to have been erected by
abbot!) of Abingdon, who formerly had a scat or place of re-
here, called Curanor Place. In this mansion, a large
lonastic building, with a quadrangular court in the centre, the
bTc of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and favorite of Queen
ISizabeth, was murdered by ber husband's orders. The life of
infortunate lady was first attempted by poison, but that
uling, she was ftuog down stairs, and killed by the fall. Being
Bscurely buried at Cumnor, the privacy ofher funeral occasioned
e, when the Earl directed the body to be removed to St.
i church, Oxford, where it was re-interred in a pompous
bd solemn manner. The principal actor in this direful tragedy
its Sir Richard Verney, He was assisted by a villain, who,
iting afterwards apprehended for a different crime, acknowledged
e above murder, and was privately destroyed, Verney himself
i' reported to have died about the same time in a deplorable

EAST ILSLEY

' la a small town, situated in a pleasant valley, in the centre of
range of downs, which extend across the county from Aston
( Wantage. The number of houses does not exceed 200, The
ihBbitants are chiefly employed in agriculture. This town is
Blebrated for its sheep-market, which is supposed to be the
}Bty market in England. It commences on the Wednes-
ly in Easter week yearly, and continues to be hold every alter-
ite Wednesday till Midsummer. The market of late years
n become of tlie first importance, not less than 20,000 sheep
tving been sometimes sold in one day. The annual average is
(wards of 250,000, comprising lambs, tegs, wethers, and ewes,
hese are principally purchased for the farmers of Hertfordshire
' and

■ Sec AshmDlc'i Beikth

Bibtiotheiia Topographic*, ice.

170 BERKSHIRE.

and Buck iniibanisli ire, in which counties they are nfterwanls
fatted lor the London market.

ALDWOllTH, orAI-DER,

As it is generally do nominated, is a small village, pleasantly
seated on a hill, about four miles south-ea^t of Ilsley. His
undoubtedly is u place of very remote origin, and is supposed by
Hearne to have been a settlement in the time of the Roman.;; but
the arguments he advances to support this opinion rest on very
slender grounds. The lillngc formed part of the possessions of
the family of Dt La Becif, who flourished here in the reigns of
the Second and Third Edwards. Their mansion-house was situa-
ted on a neighbuuring eminence, und appears to have been
fortified about the l^ib year of the latter Prince, from whom
Nicholas De La Beclie obtained permission to make castles of
three of his seats. The site of the fortress at AlUworth is now
designated by the appellation of Bechc Farm, but not the
least remains of the ancient structure can be found.

The church is a very old building, and though nol remarkable
for beauty, has become celebrated for its ancient monuments.
These are nine in number-, three of them situated on the north
side, three on the south side, and three in the centre, between
the octangular pillars that support the roof. The tombs on th«
north and south sides arc similar in design, being disposed is
enriched arches, ornamented with pilasters, columns, and pin-
nacles. The figures of the persons they were designed to
commemorate, are elegantly carved in stone, and lying in diffe-
rent positions on the upper part of the tombs. These statues are
supposed to be the cfligies of the De La Ucchc family. Sir of
them represent Vnights, arrayed in armour; the seventh is a per-
son in a common habit ; the remaining two arc females. From
the fashion of the armour and drapery, ihey appear to have been
executed in the fourteenth ccntur)'. Some of the knights arc
lying cross-legged ; a position which, according to Dugdalc, inti-
mates, that they had .either been in the wars of the Holy Land,

BRRKSntRE. 171

or had vowed to go. and were prevented by ileath. Tha work-
manship is uncommonly excellent;' and the attitude and expres-
tion of such of the figurea us remain perfect, exceedingly graceful

»ind appropriable. The heighth of the statues rather exceeds the
tommun pro|>ortion, being from six feet to aix feel three or four
laches. Several of them are considerably mutilated. Id tb«
Bhurch-yard is a yew tree of prodigious bulk, the trunk meaauring
idne yards in circumference at upwards of four feet from the
l^und. The shape is very regular, of an urn-like form. The
branches spread to a considerable distance, and rise to a great
heigbth. All recollection of its age is entirely lost.

STREATLY,

A LITTLE village on the banks of the Thames, derives its namo
rom being situated on the Roman Highway, near Ickenild-Slreet,
rhich here enters the county from Oxfordshire; Knd, in the
pinion of Mr. Wise, proceeds to Blubery and Wantage : thence
using Childrey, UHington, &c. it nins under White-horse Hill,
Dvrards Abury-, in Wiltshire. The inhabitants are mostly em-
ioyed in agriculture; the whole parish, which h about four
ules in extent, being laid out in farms. The river in lhe,Winter
Hson frequently overflows its banks, and the water continuing
lit for some lime, distresses the poorer classes exceedingly. The
trms are from 100 lo 3001. a year, and the rent of the land about
,$s. an acre. The principal articles of cultivation are wheats

rlej, and oats. Near Streatly is

BASILDON,

A LONO village on the tiirnpike-road leading to Oxford, Eamous

' the extent of its farms, and goodness of its soil; but more cele-

ited fiom being the residence of Sir Francis Sykes, who has lately

erected .

• S*e Gmtlemin'i MjgJiii

niichidly

I
I

17t BBRKSHIR1«

erected an elegant mansion here, on an estate, that formeiiy be-
longed to the Vere family. This superb building was constructed
from the designs of Mr. Carr of York, on the principle of Went-
worth-House, in that county. The walls of the grand saloon were
painted by Monsieur de Bruin, in imitation of Basso Relievo; and
the cieling is ornamented with stucco, executed in a very beauti*
ful manner. The apartments are splendidly furnished ; but the
more elegant decorations of the fine arts have been sparingly ad-
iDittcdr The park is enlivened by numerous deer, and commands
aome och prospects of the windings of the Thara^ aiid the mu*
rounding country. The grounds are disposed with much taste, ttie
gardens are well furnished with aromatic shrubs, and the kotf
bouses teem with the fruits of warmer climates, lliis seat pos-
sesses many local advantages ; ahd the highrroad in its vicinitjy
being skirted for several miles with lofty hills, covered with beech,
is one of the most pleasant rides iii the couhty.

I J

PANGBOURN

ts a neat village near the river, about three miles below B«sQ«
don^ built in the form of the Roman T. The manpr-bousc^
called[ Bear-Court, now in the possession of Dr. Breedon, wis
formerly a seat of the abbots of Reading. This parish is neariy
two miles square ; and we are informed that it is almost' wholly
disposed into one farm. The evil arising from this and the nu-
merous similar instances of cultivated lands being accumulated
into the posS|^ion of an individual, is at length apparent, thougb
the magnitude of its destructive influence on society, has nerer
been sufficiently understood till the present year. The proper
extent of farms is a question that has long engaged the attention of
writers on political economy, and the general happiness is so in-
timately connected with the subject, that no apology can be re-
quisite for the kisertion of an extract from a late publicatioii,
wherein the arguments of the supporters of both ojanions aie
contrasted in a concise manner, and the question placed on its
true basis.

BERRSIItlte. t7$

' " Itlras been confRnded, Ihat improvement in agriculture can*

I become uniiersal, unless the farms are of sufficient si^e to

I cover the risk of making etperi merits. That the excessive sub-

n of ferms, considered independently of local or accidenlaJ

I ^rcumstanceg, is inimical to productive indusiry, ihe persons cii-

t having businesN axieqiiale ti> the employ of their whole

I 'time. Thai the same implements, ihe same houses, anil the same

I leasts, and almost the same number of laborers, are employed

l;in the operations of a small farm, as would suffice for the culti-

tion of one considerably larger; anJ consequently, that a less

mparative produce is obtained at a greater comparaiive ex-

nce,

" The opponents to the enlargement of farms admit the general
I validity of these arguments, but deny the propriety of their ap-
I plication, us well as ihcir efficiency to decide the question, when
it is considered on the broud ba^is of national utility. They
contend, that agricultural improvement is not absobtltlg connected
with the maintenance of public happiness, since the price of
provisions docs not correspond with the improvements that have
* already taken place; it being an uncontradicted fact, that agri*
cultural produce is now considerably dearer than it w-as in former
litnes. They assert, that man was not created for continued la-
bor; that the necessity for it was only produced from the cor-
tniptions generated by unwise establishments; and therefore, that
ids exertions should be regulated by a standard more conformable
to nattire, than to the support of evils which never should have
teen admitted into the community. Finally, that the consolida-
i&oa of forms tends as well to the enhancement of the price of the
Necessaries of life, as it dues to the destruction of the middlii^
class of the community, that invaluable link between the poor
and the opulent ; these clfec is arising from the operation of two
causes. Milk, eggs, butter, vegetables. Sic. articles of the first
^^t iKcessity with the indigent, are beiieatii the attention of the great
^^^fcnner; he has enough for bis own purposes, and bis affluence
^^P^vents him feeling the want of Ihe small suras which their ciil-
^H Uivation and sale would produce. The same affluence also, enables

174 BER.KBHIKE.

bim to mthiold his comniaditi«B from market till extreme prices
are olTcred, and the country groans beneath the weight of his cu-
[tkiity and avarice.

" In determining the size of farms, it is necessary to regard tlif
convenience and possibility of cultivation j for their proper exleul
must ever depend on soil, situatiun, and modes of husbandry.
Both the natural and artilicjal fti'tility of the lands of Brilato are
diJIcrent in different parts of the isle ; and cqaaHialioit of size.
therefore, must be injurious, since the same portion of ground
that in one district would be sufficient to occupy and sust^n a
farmer's family) and at the same time feed with its overplus s
fair proportion of the people engaged in other business elsewhere,
trotiid in another be inadequate to those purposes. The exteut
of British farms must therefore be variable.

*' In the divisions of every county, however, there is a funeral
level, to which farms of a cerl^n size icem jwciJiarly adapted 1
if they are much jibove or below this, their management will be
attended with disadvantages either to the occupiers or to the pub-
lic. Hence, though we cannot determine as to the unifurm num* ■
ber of acres to which the extent of farma should be limited, wc
may, without descending to minute particulars, name a rniioi,
bejond which they ought no-where to be enlarged. In lining lbi>
at about 3001. per annum, we seem Id be as near the truih at
the complex circumstances of the question permit us to determine.
" The income ariHng from a rental of superior magnitude, in
injurious to the public interests, by coahliiig the farmer U>
influence tk« market more than a fair remuneration of his
labors can justify ; yet it by no means follows that all Ikrms
ifaould be of this siae. "That class' of the community who are
employed in raiwng necessaries for the support of iJie rest, have
a charge highly respectable and important. They should be
regarded as the lirst class of our laborers, and their emoluments
ought to be proportioned to the importance of their functions,
llie subsistence whieh a &rmur may derive from his lands, should
afford him a comlbi'tablc house, abundance of nourishiiiR fare.

* Commercial Ma|ai inc. Vol. III.

decent raimeht, the means of eduCtttitiE; his children for aaj con-
dition in life not eKceasively above his own, the power of laying
up a capital for Wu relief in senions of scarcity, for bis sup-
port in sickness and old age, and foi selilins his cliiUren, when
they have grown up, in farms of their own, or in otiier suitabU
modes of life. In order to this, the farm ought not to be of tha
tmallett possible extent, but should be suDiciently larqe to emplajr
* capital in stock, implements, and labor, the ))ral)ts of which
may afford that income for expenditure and accumulation, which
is here represented to be ncccssaiyp'' For the attainment of thess
objects, the produce of a renul not less than eighty pounds s
ycBis ^eems requisite. Between the above sums, the rental of

i may be allowed to fluctuate; but it shouU neither exceed

me, nor be inferior to the other. "t
' About one mile eastward of Pangbourn is Pvrlkt HaIL,
reeled by the famous Mr. (lawes, who was deeply implicated in
e Souih'Sea scheme in the year 17?0. This building is in the
k lieavy formal style, which seems to have been prevalent at the
<x>minencemenl of the Inst century. The late Mr. Slorer, who
purchased the niannr-hou;e, expended a considerable sum in
improving and ornamenting the grounds, preparatory to the erec-
tion ofa superb mansion on a spot which he had chosen, Hisinten-
(ion>t however, were frustrated by the hand of death ; yet even
in the last hour hi^t favorite ideawaii not foi^otlen. He bequeath-
ed IJOOOl. for the purpose of defraying the expences of the
edilice, with an injunction, that it should be commenced imme-
B^dntely on his decease. The desi);n was foinieU by Mr. Wyatt,

^F Is pleaiantly situated in a rich valley, which commences at
Pangbourn, and extends westward almost to Newbury. At this
place the Danes, as we have already mentioned, (page 90,) were
rvpulsed in the ninth century ; and in the meads in the vicinity is a

stiuarish

ENGLEFIELD

kz:

176 BERKiHIRK.

Kjttarisli entrenchmenr. supposed to have been thrown up on that
occasion. The second and last Marquis of Winchester, who so
nobly defended Buing House for Charles the Fint, is boned in
the churcfc. <

The seat of Richard Behyos, Esq, in this village, is tL very
elegant mansion, which formerly belonged to the Paulet family,
by one of whom it wns rebuilt. It has since been reduced, and
modernised, hy Paulet Wright, Esq. a late possessor, lincalljt
descended by the female hnc from the same noble stem. Tfaii
structure is seated on the declivity of a hill, whose verdutt
summit shelters it from the north-east winds. From the front
the eye glides over a shelving lawn to a handsome sheet of 'water,
pleaaan ly nterspersed with small islands, where numerous wild
fo 1 1 a taken refuge. Beyond this, on the south, lies a beauti-
ful vulle) bounded with swelling hills, where the deep-colored
glossj leafage of the beech forms an agreeable contrast with the
1 gh and slender elm. The inlcrmediaite space is richly adorned
with clcgiint seals, woods, villages, and cultivated grounds.

TvLEiiORST, adjoining Enjiletield, is a very extensive parish,
including a large unproductive heath, the soil of which is cnpu-
ble of yielding the most excelleiit grain, if once broken up,
and properly cultivated. The very numerous poor who reside in
this district, and for whose support the sum of eighteen* shiUings
in ihc pound is now levied, might be employed with great ad-
vantage to themselves, and hencrtt to society, in adapting this
desolate waste to the reception and nutriment of seed.

At Hose Hill, in the parish uf Burghlivld, on the south side
of the river Kennet, a vein of freestone was discovered within

■ Thr gmintti ot thii turn in i county aot remirkibU for manufictDrcn i*
■ImaiL unpKcedcnied i and probably id magnitude may be more appairM dun
real. In somf piriiha ii li cmimnary to lale Iwu iliird, of the rem only. TllM.
> farm of 3OOI. prr armuTn, uioud al one ihilling in thr pound, woidd ptlt-
duce ijl, bui if theme ii levied ui^tjy iwo thitdt "{ iIm rml, ur ■OQl. ^
amount will be no more than lOl. and contci^ucnUy the aiKiimcnt mail be in-
ercjicd to one (hilling and iispence, before it can eijual i rate levied on the
whole tern. This we believe ii the an at Tylchuiit; and if w, die lUud
II but (ov/vr ibilting) in ihe pound.

BERKSHIRE. 177

4kcse few years. This, being at a. considerable distance from any

ifi&Try, was regarded as a valuable aci[uisition Co the proprietor;

iNit on working it, the texture was found lo be so soft as to ren-

■.■ijor it unserviceable. When the attempt to bring tlje freestone

batidoned, the probability of ihe under strata being

.posetl of coals was liuggested, and a shaft was dug to a great

ith to ascertain the truth : nothing, however, was discovered

irthy observation, but a bed of cockle-shells, about twelve feet

icath the surface, and one foot in thickness. The shells were

i!y concreted with sand ; but liow far they extended is unknown,

well as the causes that placed them on this spot. The samB

of nature, perhaps, which overwhelmed the bed of

oysters near Readii^. contributed to bury these shells in the situa,-

tioR we have Just described.

Mortimer Heath, a bleak dreary tract of land on the south
!nde of the county, spreading far into Hampshire, is of htclc use
but for grazing a few miserable sheep, or furnishing the nejghboiir-
ii^ cottages with fuel. The soil, indeed, is of that sterile and inhos-
pitable nature, as to bid defiance Co every attempt at cullivation.
^ere, in dig^og for gravel, many horns of elks and moose deer
^Jwve been found. The eastern borders of this barren tract arc
[pleaungly contrasted by a more improved country, where the
ftrms are in as good a state, and ttie lands as productive, as in
any other part of Berkshire. The vallies in this vicinity are re-
lieved by various undulating hills, interspersed with elegant seats,
ud rendered beautiful by lu.xuriant plantations.

OAKINGHAM, oa WOKINGHAM,

^H As it is frequently written, is a populous town on the edge of

l^nindsor Forest, consisting of several streets, which center in a

spacious area, where the market-house is situated. This is an an-

denl building, framed with timber, and open at bottom, with &

; ball above, wherein the public business is transacted. The church

if a large, handsome edifice, situated in a slip of jCUhbire, whick
mmencing at this town, runs through Berkshire towards Wat^
Vol. 1. N grave.

179 XERKSHIRE.

grave, without being connected with the county of whicli it
appears to form a part. The inside of the walls of this bbric
is principally chalk ; the outside is composed of ferrits* and
louf^h grout work. The number of houses i^ 298, chiefly ot
brick. The inhabitants are computed at 1300, who are employed
in agriculture, throwing silk, sorting wool, making shoes, gauze,
&c. The latter manufacture has been lately established.

The corporation of Oakingham consists of an alderman, seve-
ral burgesses, a high-steward, a recorder, and a town clerk.
Many legacies imd donations for charitable purposes have been
^ven to thiii town. Archbishop Laud gave 6ol. per annum for
the use of' tlio poor, and every third year 70l. additional, foe;
qiprenticing boys and apportioning servant maids. Mr. Charlei 1
Palmer bequeathed 2o!. yearly for ihc tuition of as many pooc 1
children; and various smaller bequests have been made by other i
persons. Among them, one legacy is remarkable for its singula— 1
rity. Mr. Staverton left a house at Siaincs for the purchase of
> bull, which is to be baited in the markct-plnre on St. Thomas's <
' day annually, and then given to the poor. The carcase of oatt 1
beast, however, being insufficient to supply the number i
claimants, the inhabitants are accustomed to purchase another,,
which is baited, and distributed at the same time.

Dm. Thomas Godwin, Bishop of Bath and Wells, was bor* 1
in this town in ifac year 1517. He was «ducated at Magdalea^J
College, Oxford, and afterwards became master of a Ave-schD«4l I
at Brackly, in Northamptonshire, which his religious prtociplea
occasioned him to resign on the accession of Queen Mary. Early
in the reign of Elizabeth, he entered into orders; and, aiter
several intermediate promotions, was raised to the above bishop-
ric, but soon fell under the displeasure of the Queen, whose

anger

■ The country in ilie ntighbouthtwi of lhi( lovi-n vtria very much in »I>-
purance; tbc fine Mnilmif com Gelds, nd light gnvclly loil, giving place la •
dreiry Wulc of hciih, wiih i ion of liiuk and baif'Cii and, exunding ai &r as
Bafihot. Thii v,idc.ipr«iling spjce ippcars u be pervaded with iron ore, n

firmly with itmi, ai to miu the fbtce of tbcitroogcM tooL 1
an, by ibc pcuaiury, taiki Jtrrili,

BEIlKSillKE. 173

aiigcr was excited by his having b second time entered into the
slate of malrimony. He riied in the year ISpO, aged 73.

At Luckely-Gkeew, neur this town, is an hospital found-
ed in the year l665 by Henry Lucas, Esq. fur sixteen poor men,
and a master. The pensioners are allowed ten pounds a year,
and are chosen aliernately by sixteen parishes in Berkshire, and
the like number in Surry. The Draper's Company of London act
as the trustees of thb charity.

Three miles and a half south-east of Oakingham, near East-
bampstead park, is a large irregular fortification, called Cjesar's
Camp, situated on the summit of a hill, and defended with a
double ditch. About half a mile southward of this camp is 3
raised road, nearly SO feet wide, vulgarly denominated the DtvU's
Highwaii, with a trench on each side running cast and west.

BINFIELD,

About two miles north of Cxsar s Camp, is a pleasant village,
sunoimded with elegant seats, and situated in the midst of the
tract called the Royal Hunt, in Windsor Forest. The soil,
though of a light sandy nature, produces very good corn; and
leadows are of a peculiar rich quality. Few of the farms
I execcd 100 acres; a circumstance which has probably contribu-
ted to keep down the poor rates during the present dearth of pro-
Tuions. In this parish the rat« is not more that si.\ shillings in
the pound. On the side of the turnpike-road from London b s
■mall yet neat brick house, once the residence of Mr, Pope's fa-

titer, but now the property of Webb, Esq. Within half a

(nile of this building, in a retired part of the forest, on the edge
L' 4f a common, is the fiivouiitc s]K>t where the muse of Pope ea-
I layed the strength of her scarcely Hedged pinions. On a larg«
I tree, beneath which the poet is said to have written many of his
I juvenile pieces, the words here pofe suno are inscribed in
f capital letteni. This emphatic sentence is annually revised by a
^ person from Oakinghani, at the expence we believe of a lady of
N 2 that

180 BeRK^HIRS.

that place. The seat has been long removed; and were it not
for the above insciiption, all recollection of this spot, so interest-
ing to the admirers of poetical genius, would probably have been
lost. The beginning of the poem of Windsor Koreit was com-
posed in these sli/l haunts, which the poet appears to have had
immcditttL-ly before him, when he wrote these lines;

There intenpcra'd in livnu ind op'ning glid«,
Thin wtti ante, thic thiin each olhcri ihadct.
Hen in full light the ruuet plaiiu ciund ;
Thrie wnpi in cloudi the bluiih biilli aKend.
E'en the wild hath displiyt htr purple dya,
And -raidil the duarC Fruiiful fieldi iriu,
Thai, crown'd with lufted (reel, and ipringiog com,
Like verdaDl iilci, the laUc watte adorn.

Hurst, between Oakingham and Binfield, is n very cxten^r*
"parish, containing four liberties, which comprise the greatest part
of the slip of Wiltshire before mentioned. The land is mostly
divided into small farms, rented from fifteen to twenty shillings an
acre. The inhabitants are computed at upwards of 1400. In tliis
parish is an almshouse, founded in the ye^r ifiS'J by William
Barker, Esq. for eight single persons, who receive si.\penee a day,
and a gown once in two years.

WARGRAVE

Is a small village, situated on the banks of the Thames, which
combining with the beautiful range of hills leading towards Park
Pliiue, fumishoa a immber of pleasing views. This, in early
times, was a market town, and, piior to the conquest, was ^ven
by Queen Emma to the Bishop of Winchester. It continued in
that see till the reign of Edward the Sixth, when Doctor Poynelt
presented it to the King, who gave it to Henry Neville. Queen
Mary resumed the grant, and again vested it in the see of Win-
chester; but Elizabeth restored it to Neville, from whom it de-
scended to his posterity, the Nevilles of Billingsbear.

This village has received an adventitious lustre from having

been the residence of lUc late Earl of Barryraorc, who erected a

Qiagiufic«nt

BEIlKHHinX.

181

it theatre here, at an cxptsice of upwards of UOOOI.

This splendid fabric was crowded on the evenings of representalion
by audiences composed of the first families in the kingdom, end
possessed every accommodation of a royal theatre, with the ad-
dition of a most superb apartment, wlicre the Earl's supper par-
lies were entertained. Since the melimcholy death of the noble,
but inconsiderate owner, the building has been taken down, and
Ibe materials sold.

LAURENCE WALTHAM,

Though now reduced to a few scattered houses, is reported
to have been a place of remote antic|uity, and much importance.
Some of the buildings wear the appearance of having flourished
fa better times, and the ruins of many more are visible. The
inhabitants assert, thai the houses were formerly very numerous*
■nd that they extended a considerable way on each side the road,
which, at the entrance of the village, passes under an arched
gateway, composed of large oak timbers. In a spacious field in
this neighbourhood, named Weycock Highroad, was a Roman
fortress, the remains of which were apparent in the time of Cam-
^n. The site of this structure is still called Castle-acre ; it coni-
tnands a deiiglitful view o*cr a very large extent of country.
On this spot many Roman coins have been found, chiefly of the
lower empire ; and Mr. Heamc dug up a silver one of Amyntas,
the grandtkthcr of Alexander the Great.

In a field near the manor-house of Feens, at White, or Ab-
bot's Waltham, the adjoining parish to the above, and at
Berry Grove, near the church, a number of Roman coins and
tiles have been tbiind. These discoveries induced Mr. Hearne
to conjecture that the Roman sokliors rested somewhere in this
■•icinity, when passing between the stations Calleva and Pontes.

Thoiias Heaknc, the indefatigable collector of books and
Inanuscripts, just mentioned, was bom at Litlleford Green, in
■this parish, in the year idSO, His family was originally of I'enn,
In Buckinghamshire, in which county he received the rudiments
cf his education; but mis afterwards sent to Edmund flalt,
N 3 OAfuid,

182 BERKSHIRB.

Oxford, by the liberality of Francis Cherry, Esq. an inhabttant of
Shottcsbrooke. Here his attachment to the study of English
antiquities became so fixed and permanent, that he refused some
considerable preferments in the church, rather than quit the at-
tractive spot where he had so many opportunities of gratifying
his favourite passion. From some letters written by his father, and
preserved in the picture gallery in this university, it seems that
Hcarnc's fondness for ancient lore, prevented him from attending
to the distresses of his parent when in the vale of years. The letters
are homely, but forcibly depict the sorrow attendant on old age
and indigence. In one of them, dated May 28th, 1711, he says,
" This is the grand climacterical year of my life, viz, 63, and I
do not expect to outlive it." This, however, was only the con-
clusion of despondency, for he lived till the 18th of October,
1723, though in extreme poverty, and constant expectation of
his approaching end. Young Heame was appointed to several
offices in the university, and in the year 1714 was made archito-
pographer. In this situation he employed the chief of his time
in collating ancient manuscripts and curious books. He died at
Oxford in 1/35. *

SHOTTESBROOKE.

The small parish of this name appears to have been separated
from the adjoining one of White Waltham, and was formerly tfa6
scat of a small college, founded in the year 1337 by Sir William
Trusscl, of Cubblesdon, in Staffordshire, who likewise built the
church, against the wall of the north cross pf which he was bu-
ried, together with his lady. This gentleman, we are informed
by Heame, '* lyes wrapt up in lead, with his wife in leather at
his feet, as appears by a defect in the wall.'' Here also, the
learned Mr. Henry Dodwell, some time Camdcnian professor at
Oxford, wa<« buried. The great attention of this eminent charac-
ter to literature, caused a consumption and slow fever, which
terminated his existence at the age of 70.

The completion of the church at Shottcsbrooke is said to have
been accompanied with a very remarkable accident. The architect

who

BERKSHIRE. 18S

who built it, having either laid the last stone of the spire, or
fixed the weather-cock, called for some wine to drink the king's
health, which being given him, he drank it, and immediately
fell to thi^ groud, where he was dashed in piece;, And afterwards
buried on the ^pot. A rough stone, in the shape of a coflin, was
placed over his remains, with the ititfrjections O! O! the only
sounds he uttered, engraven on it. Sucli is the tradition of the in-
habitants; but-Hearne, who particularly examined the stone at
Hie commencement of the last century, observes, that tlie two ova)
figures are onlv portions of the form of the cross. He, however,
admits the general validity of the story, and observe*, that the
grave was opened, and some bones found in it.

PARK PLACE,

The residence of the Earl of Malmsbnry, lAituated one mile
south-east of Henley. The many interesting ohjecis concentra-
' ted in this domain, are calculated to excite even the most Intent
enei^es of poetic djieriptitm; yet none of the magic tints which
fancy blends to erabcnisb the creations of imagination, are requi-
site to give lustre to the picture. Beanty, grandeur and variety,
are the characterizing features of this estimable seat, the grounds
of which display as much boldness of composition as any on ihe
banks of the Thames. The steep sides of the hills, with their
chalky precipices, are overhung with grand masses of stately
beech interspersed with evergreen's, which extend to the mai^in of
the stream, and, from various points of the landscajie, appear
like an immense verdant amphitheatre. The pcnjeciing lawns
correspond with the sublimity of the contiguous scenery, and
unite in forming a diversity of rich and beautiful prospects.

This estate was purchased of the widow of the late Field Mar-
shal Conway, by the present noble resident, in the year 1796.
The General expended considerable sums in ijnproving and embel-
tshing the grounds ; but the principal alterations of the house
bave been made since it became the property of iho Ear], under
whose direction the arrangement and construction of the rooms
N 1 ha^-e

have been greatly altered, and elegantly decorated from the dnigm
of Mr. Holland, the architect.

This mansion is situated on the brow of a lofty range of hills,
that accompaniea the windings of the Thames for several miles)
and the spot on which it stands is nearly three hundred feet above
the level of the water, being judiciously sheltered from the winds
by extensive plantations. The building is composed of brick,
cased with a yellowish stucco; and, though not externally grand,
is highly interesting, from the taste and elegance exhibited in the
interior. The library is splendidly fiirnishcd, and stored with a
profusion of choice books, the chief of which were collected by
the late Mr. Harris, (father to the Earl,) who was esteemed by
all the literati of the day for bis erudition and refined taste.
This selection has been considerably increased by his son, whose
additions have been principally made from the classics and histo-
rians. The taste of this nobleman for literature is displayed by
almost every room in the house l)cing filled with select volumes.
This mansion contains several good paintings by ancient and
modern masters. The following claim our particular attention.

PoRTBAiTs OF THEIR MAJESTIES: SJI Joshui Reyuolds,
These are full lengths, and were given by the King to Lord
Malmsbury. His Majesty is represented in his Parliamentary

James Harris, Esq,': Stcwail. This gentleman was distin-
guished for his very uncommon learning; and his refinement of
taste, and elegance of manners, was almost unequalled. He was
the author of severe' valuable works, and particularly of one
entitled Hermes, qt a Philosophical cnquiiy concerning universal
gramtnar. Tliis was termed by the lale Bishop Lowth, " the most
beauiiful and perfect example of analysis that had been exhibited
since the days of Aristotle," wherein " the greatest acuteness"
was united " with perspicuity of e.splicalion ftnd elegance of
method, "

Oliver

* A complete editiaa of Mr Hiirii'i wclilngi, with ■ mnnoir, &c. ii now
ID cbc prcH, Ifae editing of which bu beeu supeiintcndcd by Lord Milnubury.

_ yiu>

BERKSBIRB. 189

Oliver Ckomwell. Tiiis is an untiuesiionable ori^nal, and
hu dcscemled to llie present family, from tbu governor of C&ris-
brook Castle, who received it as n present for lils vigilance in
wcuriiig the unfortunate CharW after bis escape from Hampton
Court,

Ix>kdCuasc£LLOK Suaftsbvht: Greenhill, Tliis distin-
guished slatcgmiin seems to have partaken uf the versatility
occasioned by the disturbances of the seventeenth centuryi
in a very eminent degree. Having been elected a member of the
kouse of commons in the year l640, heat first inclined to the
(idc of Royalty, but soon quitted it, and accepted a commission
Irom the Parliament ; yet when the reins of government were
affumed by Cromwell, be opposed btm with much warmth, and
became exceedingly active in bis exertions to restore Monarchy.
On the dissolution of the Commonu'collh, he was delegated with
eleven others to invite the King to England, aiid was soon after-
wards appointed Chancellor of the Exchequer. In 1672 he was
created Earl of Sliaftsbury, and made Lord Cbancetlor the same
year; yet, during the latter part of Charles's roign, he opposed
bis measures with so much zeal, that he was twice committed to
tbeTower, andia 16~S1 tried for high treason. After his acquittalt

retired to Holland, where he died in l683. The artist who

:ecutcd this portrait is dpscribed by Walpole as the most pro-
ing of Lely's scholars ; but his fame was of short duration ;
for his acquaintance with the players of the age in which be
Uved, involved him in licentious habits, and contributed to ter-
minate his days at an early period. Ri^uming to his lodgings
from the Vine Tavern, where he had passed the evening, he fell
into a kennel in Long Acre, whence being lakcn home, he was
pat to bed, and died the same night.

LoBD AND Lady Malmsbuhy : Sir Joshua Reynolds.

Catherine the Secomd, the late Empress of Russia, The
features of Catherine were expressive and commanding, and the
whole of her form and manner so majestic, that she needed no
outward adornment to ensure respect. Her eyes weie laigc and
|4ue, her eyebrows and hair of a brownish color; her forehead

186 BtKKSHIB^

was open and re^Iar, her nose ratheT long, the mo^th well pro-
portioned, and the chin round. Her complexion was not clear,
but the tout tnsembU was graceiul and dignified. Her neck and
bosom were high, ami the general character more expressive (rf
liveliness than gravity. She died on the sixth of November,
17p6, in the 67th year of her age,

Paul the Fiust, the late Emperor of Russia. This portrait
of the imperial Autocrat was taken when he was only Gram]
Duke, and presented, together with its companion, the portrait
<A his Duchess, to Lord Malmsbury by the late Empress.
The recent death of this Emperor, whether effected by poison or
the bowstring, is a proof that even tlie most unlimited authority
is no security for the life of the posseshor, when the only guides
of bis actions are caprice and cruelty. The eccentric wildness
of his conduct, and the sudden changes of his temper, which,
like the paroxysms of a rushing whirlwind, overwhelmed whatevn
came within the Hjiherc of its action, can only be excused on the
plea of insanity. The frivolity of his disposition, as well as the
weakness of his understanding, &re strikingly exemplified in a
late publication, entitled Secret Memoirs of the Court of Petcrs-
faurgh, llic following anecdote selected from that perfbrmnnCe
will illustrutc the remark. Paul was riding on horseback ihrou^
one of ihc streets of Petcrsburgh, when the animal stumbled ;
and the Emperor immediately dismounting, held a sort of conncS
with his attendants, and Ibe horse was ordered to reeeiTO Klly
lashes wilb a. whip. Paul caused ihem to be given on the spot
before the populace, counted the strokes himself, onil when the
prescribed number had been inflicted, exclaimed "There, Sir;
that is for having stumbled with the Emperor 1" Judging from the
charn.?ter of the man, this portrait would seem to be an nnimlh-
ful delineation ; for the countenance is beamittg with mirtfa and
cheerfulness. '

Frederick the Great. King or Pbussia. A three
quarter face, considcreil as a good likeness. f

View on the Thames, comprising the Toner, Lopdcn Bridge^

ate. Scott.

View

BERKSHIRE. 187

View in St. Jeines's Park: CanaJletli. In this pieiure the
Mtuky Ktmospiicre of Lonilon has been nicely discriminHtcd.

Vill^e Scene; Hobbima. A very choice piece. This artist
T^a fond of leading the eye over a genilc slope, diversified with
gb rubs, plants, &c. to a ruin, piece uf water, or delicately remota
^taorc. His pictures are very valuable, but have been often
counterfeited.

Several Views of Vejiice : Canalletti,

1.8dy Malmsburj's room is oriiamented in a style of elegant
^mplicity, nJid adorned with several excellent miniatures by
Edrige, wlioae portraits in Indian ink and pencil are almost with-
out parallel. One peculiarity in this apartment is worthy
imitation under similar circumstances. On opening a large japan-
ned closet, where the tea-Iiible equipa^ is supposed to have been
stored, the spectator is delighted with the prospect of an'extensivB
tiact of country, of which the town of llenlcy, and the mean-
ijkriags of the Thames, constitute the chief objects.

Though the house, as wc have already slated, is not without
attractions, yet the most prominent feature of Park Place is the
beautiful sccnerv of the grounds, which arc diversified with a
Cuntinued succession of lofty eminences and low vallies, Tha
wooils partake of forest wildness, and being intermixed with
•hnibberies, produce the most picturesque and beautiful views,
Alany of ihcsr scenes would delight the mind of a Salvetor,
•nd many others a Claude miphi in vain attempt to copy. Some
of them command an unbounded horizon, and present all the
Twiety of Engli^li landscape. On the east of the mansion is a
^rden inclosed and laid out according to the French taste; and
>||Hr this is the aviary, designed on a i>eculiar plan, and fnmish-
«d with a beautiful selection of the feathered race; among which
the silver pencilled and gold Pheasants are particularly de-
WTving of admiration, for their pleasing forms and elegant
plumage.

• A winding subtei raneotis passage, nearly 170 yards in length,
commencing in a wood on the summit of a hill near the aviary,
leads to a fine valley, planted on the borders with cypress and'

othrr

188 BX&RlAlRX.

other trees. Here a icrand colonnade, representing s Roraui Mn-
phitheatre falling into decay, and majestic even in ruin, presents
itself. TTiis is executed in a manner far superior to most orna-
ments of this kind ; and its secluded situation, and mouldering
ivy-crowned walls, render it peculiarly picturesque. Descending
the valley towards the Thames, the path winds under a large arch,
curiously constructed with natural stones of vast dimensions, in-
termingled with the enormous blocks of massive wall brought from
Reading Abbey. This fabric, interesting from its singularity,
seeras a very romantic object, nhen viewed from the wuter on
the opposite bank of the river. The high road, which passes over
the arch, is oxcludetl from the sight by shrubberies and planta-
tions; and through that judicious management is prevented from
having an unpleasing effect.

On a hill, near this structure, is an elegant cottage, whence
the views are particularly line. On the west the Thames glides
in full stream, washing the skirts of ihc wood to the whole extent
of the grounds. Towards the east, the meanderings of the river
are indistinctly seen through the verdant scenery that adorns the
emiDcncc on which the cottage is situated. On the north, the
church of llcnlcy, and the woody hills of Oxfordshire in the
distance, con.stiIute an agreeable prospect. From the river banks
in this quarter, a narrow pass, overhung with Iroes, leads to a
chalk cavern of large dimensions. Proceeding southward, a so-
litary willow walk, on the borders of the stream, conducts the
wanderer's feet to an elegant tomb of white marble, composed in
the Roman style, and perfectly in unison with the sequestered
and lonely spot on which it stands. At some distance is a ro-
manlic arch, constructed with rude stones, and rendereil pleasing
by the variety of its verdant accompaniments. The high grounds
on the north towards tienley, are crossed by a noble terrace of
great length, whence a complete bird's-eye view of the river, the
town, and tiie siirrounding country, enchants the sight of ihc
qtectalor. Beyond the terrace is a pleaiuint valley, consisting a4>
about twenty acres, called the Lavender Farm, exclusively appro-
priuti'd to the culiivutiuu of that herb, and separated by a line at

bbruln

shrubs from a sloep nnJ rugged ra\ ine, where the high road former-
ly ran; the sides of which exhibit a variety of rude and brokea
BCeiiery. Near the bottom is a small stone house, much admired
for it« elegant wmplicity. These different objects form a landscape
of very distinct character from any of the prospects before d»-
scHbed.

On a vrell-chosen eminence, near the southcra quarter of ths
«mBincnicd grounds, st&iid:^ a curious vestige of the manners of
«ili(|uity. This is denomiimted a DRUIDS TEMPLE, and was
'frewtitod to General Conway by ihe inhabitants of the ble of Jer-
sey, us » testimony of the respect and gratitude due to his vigi-
lance as a governor, and to his amiable qualities as a man. I'hii
invaluable ^ft wai accompanied by an appi'opriutc and forcible
iiuci'Iptioii, which wc shall transcribe in the words of the oiigiDal.

Cet ancien Temple des Druides

I decouvert le ISrae, Aout, 1785,

1 - sur le Montagne de St. Helicr

dans I'Isle de Jersey;
a etc presente par les Habitans
a son Excellence le General Conway,
Icur Gouverneur.
Pour des siecles cache, aus regards des morlels,
Cet ancien monument, ces pierres, ces autels.
Oil le sang des humains offcrt en sacrilicc,
Ruissela, pour des Dieux, qu'enfanltiit le caprice.
Ce monument, sans pcix par son antiquite,
Temoignera pour nous a la posterite.
Que dans lous les dangers Cesaree* cut un pcre,
Attentif, et vaillant, genereux, et prospere :
Et rcdira, Conway, aux siecles avenir,
Qu'en verlu du respect d\i ^ ce souvenir,
Elle te fit ce don, acquis a ta vaillance,
Corame un juste tiibut de sa rcconnoissance.

The LltLii nunc af dw uUsd.

190

.sums.

The stones which compose this icmpic »re forty-live in number,
and were ail so carefully marked when taken dowD, sj> to be re-
cructcdon this spot in thdr original circular form. Tbcy- were
discovered in the summer of the year 17S3, on tlic summit of a
rocky hill, near the town of St. Helier, by some workmen who
were emplojcd to k'vcl the ground as a place of exercise for llie
militia, and before Chat time were entirely hidden with c&rih,
which appeared raised in a heap, like a large barrow or tumulus,
The circumferejice of the circle is sixty-six feet ; the highest of the
stones about nine. They arc from four to six feet in breadth,
and from one to three in thickness. The entrance or passage
faces the eaut, and measures fifteen feet in length, five in breadth,
and four in height. 1'he inside contains five cells, or cavities,
v-arjing in depth from two feet four inches to four feet three
inches. The coverings of these cells and of the entrance are of
stones from eighteen inches to two feet thick. Within this temple
two medals were found : one of the Emperor Claudins ; the other
so obliterated as to be unintelligible. The accounts of the history
and antiquities of Jersey are very imperfect, yet it seems probable,
that it was once particularly the seat ol Dj'uid worship. So
lately as the year ifigi, when Mr, Poindextre wrote some tracts
concerning it, there were no less than iifty assemblages of rude
stones, which liiat gentleman considered as Druid temples or al-
tars; yet nearly the whole of these aiUique memorials have since

been demolished, Whe
covered up is unknown
by the Druids themselvi
profanation oflheltoma
arc as rough and unhew
curious structure seems to be a com
Kistvaen, the stones of Memorial,
bardic Circle. It is a very singult

or by whom, the present structure was
but it is supposed to have been buried
, to presei-ve it from the violence and
,. All the stones wilh which it is formed
as when taken from the quarry. His
I be a combination of the Cromlech, the
druidical, or
relict of British antiquity,

and highly deser\'ing of preservation as a. vestige of the customs
of remote ages. Park Place includes an area of 41X1 acres; ait
eiUent of ground, perhaps, that comprises as great a variety of
interesting prospects, as any of similar limits in the kingdnm.

ULiilLEY.

HURLEV.

Mb. Ireland, in \m picturesque views nn the river Thames,
obsvrvM, that " the fiiscinnting scenery of tbi^ nciglibourbood
liafi peculiarly attracted the notice of the clergy of former periods,
jirho, in ipite of the thorny and crooked ways which they have
■sscrtcd to be the surest road to heaven, have been careful to se-
lect some flowery paths for their own private journeyings thither;
•motig wJlich ranks Hurley or Lady Place, forroerly a monastery."
In the Domesday book. Hurley is said to have lately belonged to
Edgar; but was then the property of Geoffrey de MatideviUe,
who received it from William ihe Conijueror, as a reward for his
gallant conduct in ihe battle of Hastings; and in the year 1086
ftiBnded a monastery here for Benedictines, and annexed ft as a
to Wcslminilfr abbey, where the original charter is still

On the dissulutiim of the monasteries Hurlev became the
property of a family named Chamberlain, of whom it was pur-
chased, in the rei^n of Queen Elizabeth, by Richard Lovelace,
^ soldier of fortune, who went on an expedition against the
t with Sir Francis Drake, and erected the preaeni man-
1 the ruins of the ancient buildini;, with the property he
•equired in that enlerprize. The remains of the monastery may be
ttaccd in the numerous apartments which occupy the west end of
itlie house; and in a vault beneath the hall some bodies in monk-
!&li habits have been found buried. Part of the chapel, or
frctory, also, may yet be seen in the stables, the windows of
irhich arc of chalk; and though made in the Conqueror's lime,
ippear as fresh as if they were of modern workmanship.

The hall is extremely spacious, occupying nearly half the
b|Lttrnt of the house. The gnind saloon is decorated in a singular
■tyle, the pumicld being painted with upright huidscapes, the
Ifttfings of which are executed with a kind of silver lacker. Tlic
a be Italian, and are reputed to have been the work
Bf ^Ivatuc Hosa, purposely chccutuJ to vjubelU^h this apartment.

The

n the possession of Mr-

192 BEEKBHIRI.

Tlie receipt of the painter is said to be
Wilcox, the late resident.

During the reigns of Charles the Second, and James, his
successor, the principal nobility held frequent meetings in a sub-
terraneous vault beneath this house, for the purpose of asccrlain-
inR the measures necessary to be pursued for re -establishing ihe
liberties of the kingdom, which the insidious hypocrisy of one
Monarch, and the more avowed despotism of the other, had
completely undermined and destroyed. It is reported also, that
the principal papers which produced the Revolution of 1688 were
signed in the dark recess at ihe end of ihis vault. These circum-
stances have been recorded by Mr. Wilcox, in an inscription
written at the extremity of the vault, which, on account of the
above circumstances, was visited by the Piince of Orange after
he baiS obtained the crown ; by General Paoli in the year 1780;
and by their present Majesties on the 14lh of November 1785.

The Lovelace family was ennobled by Charles the First, who,
in the third year of his reign, created Richard Lovelace. Daron
Hurley, which title became extinct in 1736. The most valuable
part of the estate wns about that time sold to the Greeve family,
8nd afterwards to the Duke of Marlborough. The other part,
consbting of the mansion house and woodlands, to Mrs. Williams,
sister to Dr. Wilcox, who was Bishop of Eochcstcr about the
middle of last century. This lady was enabled to make the pur-
chase by a very remarkable instance of good fortune. She had
bought two tickets in one lottery, both of which became prizes:
the one of 5001. the other of 20,0001. From the daughter of
Rlrs. Williams it descended to Mr. Wilcox in the year 1771.

BISHAM

Is a pleasant village near the Thames, about two miles from
Hurley, and almost opposite the town of Great Marlow, in
Bucks. The manor-house is a very ancient building, but ha*
been repaired and altered at dil^rent periods. It appears to have
been erected by William Jlontacute, Earl of Salisbury, in the

Jyt** 1838, for t-anona regular of the order of St. Augustine. I
1536 it was surrendered lo Henry the Eighth: its revenues i
that period were valued at 3S51. 1 is. per amiuni. The fullowin
year it was founded anew by that Monarch, anil more amply endow
ed for the tuiiiiitenancc of thirteen Benedictine monks, and a
»bbot, who WHS to have the privilege of silling in Parliament. 'ITii
was dissolved, however, within three years of its ii
ifiCoToc at that time amounting to tht> yearly value of 6S\l. iia.
a pension of 661. 1 Sa. id. annually, bestowed on Cowdrcy,
s difficult to account for Ihe various dcdicntious
iy previous to the period when it fell into the hands of
,*wfao, claiming a. right paramount to the blessed si
fiscated all its privileges to his own benetit. In the first charter
it was said to be dedicated to our Lord Jesus Christ and the Virgin
kis mother; in the second, to the Virgin only; yet in the time of
Aicbard the Second, and in both the deeds of surrender, we lind
it was citlitled the Conventual Church uf the floly Trinity. The
■ibbey was frequently visited by Henry the Eighth, and also by
Queen Elizabeth, who resided here some time. A large stats
apartmeot yet retains the name of the Queen's council-chamber.

Bisham Church is sealed close by the river, and contaiuii many
monuments to record the memory of the Hobys, to whose family
the site of the abbey was granted by Edward the Sixth. The
Itonei of the founder arc said to have been removed hither, by
Maud, hia widow, from Cirencester, by a license obtained for that
purpose from Henry the Fifth,

The borders of the Thames in this neighbourhood are decora-
ted with many pleasing scats. The rural villa of Sin Geokgk
Yuuvo is situated in a low valley, encompassed with fertile
itleadovrs, and sheltered from the north winds by the majestic
bilb and beautiful hanging woods of Hedsor, Clieldcn, and I'ap-

k>w. The

n the

Whitk Place is a neat mauMon, built entirely with chalk,
aot a unglo brick having been used, except for the chimnies.
Though erected upwards of twenty years since, the various
changrs of the weather appear to h:ive effected it but very shghclv.

Vol. 1. O It

BERKSlllnE,

It commands a numbi:^ of fine views, enriched wiih bcailliful
woodland scenery.

MAIDENHEAD

Was anciently culled SoM ^ilingtoii, and Sudlinglun. Whence
it derived its pri;sent name is uncertain ; though some visionaries
havo dcdnced its origin from a British maiden, one of Ihe eleven
thoosanil viipus said to have been martyred with St. Ursula,
their leader, near Cologne in Germany. This lale, however,
has been controverted by Simordus, a shrewd Jesuit, irho has
demonstrated that only two virgins were put to death, Ursula
and Undecimilla; the name of the latter having been mistaken by
the ignorant monks for Un decim miUe.

Maidenhead is situated on the borders of the Thames, in the
parishes of Bray and Cookhain. It consists principally of one
long paved street, the south side of which is in the former parish.
Its present consequence may be attributed to the building of the
bridge about the time of Edward the Third, by which means the
great western road was carried through the town. Previous to
this, travellers usually crossed the river at a ferry, called Bab-
ham's End, about two miles northward. The first bridge was of
wood, towards the repairs of which the corporation were allowed
a tree annually out of Windsor Forest. The present bridge is a
work of conside ruble merit, and was constructed from the designs
of Sir Robert Taylor, about twenty years ago. It consists of seven
large semicircular arches, built with stone, and three tmallot
ones of brick, at each end. The expence of building was I9OOOI.
indepcndant of some contiguous lands, purchased to render
the work complete. The approach to this structure is grand aud
spacious ; the ends being formed with a noble curve outwards.
Along the sides is a broad pavement, fenced ivilh a handsome bal-
Instradc. The view from the centre of the bridge is particu-
larly pleasing. The hills of Cliefdcn and Tapluw, with their
elegant mansions and pleasant meadows, fnrni a very diversified
- and bcauillul prospt'ct. The principal tntde is malt, meai, and
timber ; and the inhabitants derive uddiliuiial assistance from the

passage

[tftsMjEie of travellers, for whose accommodation spvcral inns
hxve been opened. The cliapel ts dodicated to St. Thomas the
Apostle, and Mary -MagduleB, The minister is chosen hy the
inhabitants, and is not obliged to attend the Bishop's visi-
tation. The charitable donations are numerous, but the respec-
tive sums are small. In thai part of the town which hes in Cook-
ham paii«h, tliere is an alms-house for eight poor men and their
■wives, founded in the year lb'5y, by James Smyth, Esq. and en-
dowed by the same gentLcnian with 401. a year.

This town was originaily incorporated under the name of the
Cild or Fraternity of the Brothers and Sisters of Maidenhithe, in
tlie 26th year of the reign of Edward the Third, After the Refor-
matioD, it was governed by a warden and burgesses ; but the
charter of James the Second vests the authority in a mayor and
aldermen, who arc empowered to chuse a high steward, and other
officers. The mayor, his predecessor, and the steward, act as
justices.

BRAY,

A SMALL village, about one mile from Maidenhead, lias been
rendered memorable from the conduct of a vicar who possessed the
benehce in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and the three succeed-
ing Monarchs. This man was twice a Protestant and twice a
Papist; and wlien reproatlied for the unsteadiness of his princi-
ples, which could thus sulfer him to veer with every change of
administration, replied, that, " he had always governed himself
by what he thought a vnr^- laudable principle, which was never on
■ny terms, if he could avoid it, to part with his vicarage."* His
name appears lu have been Synion Symonds. He died in the
forty-first jear of Elizabeth. •

O a Camden

* Several lite wiiien, piniculiily Irclimil ind Fcmr, who have mentioned
Ihue circumilinces, deiciibe Ihem ii hippemng in the reigni of C{|»lei (ba
Second, James the S«Ond, Stc. Thii misUke throw) the imputition of ipoi-
bcyoa the wotthy pcnon who held thevlcingf lowirdi the conclurion of the
171b centui)-. It should be remirked, that ibe (lory wii tint publiihed bf
Fuller, inhii Chuich Hiitor>'i i„A 91 the >»ihoi died in the year 1661, il ii
evident that it miiit hive been cicculilcd pievioui to that event.

196 BERKSHIRE.

Camden supposes that this place was occupied by the Biiroci,
who sul>mitted to Cssar, and obtained his protection, and with il
a secure possession of onu of the most beautiful spots in this
county. Phillippa, the Queen of Edward the Third, had rentj
assigned to her frojn this, and the adjoining manor of Cookhsnt.
It is now conMdcrrd as part of the royitl domain, being attached
to the liberliea of Windsor Castle, and retaining some peculiar
privilegps, among which may be included an exemption from toils
in the adjacent market-towns. The church ii an ancient structure,
composed of various materials, and exhibiting a mixture of
almost every style of architecture. The number of houses h about
100. In Ferrar's Tour from Dublin to London, we are informed
that some workmen, digging in a bed of stitf cUj a few yean
since, somewhere in this neighbourhood, discovered the perfect
petrifaction of a turtle, weighing 49 pounds, and measuring
fixleen inches in its laigest diameter.

The principal charitable institution in this village, is an hospi-
tal founded in the year 1637, l>y William Goddard, Lsq. for
forly poor persons, who, in addition to their place of residence,
are allowed eight shillings a month. Over the door of tlte alms-
house is a statue of the founder, which the tasteless veneration of
the inhabitants induces them to keep finely whitewashed.

Filberts, is the name of a manor situated at llollyport, in
this parish. The site of the manor-house was ibmierly occupied
by a mansion inhabited by Nell Gwynn, when she was mistress to
Charles the Second. The present building is square and spaciout
ornamented with embattled turrets on the angles.

£kav-Wick Lodge, the scat of Thomas Slack, Ea^.
neat edifice, built on a gentle eminence, that coisinandi «
pleasing views of a richly *ultivated district, interspersed wit
uieadow land, stretching to die town of Windsor, and r«ndere
fertile by the waters of the Thames. The prospect on one sid
is diversified with the town of Maidenhead and village of Taplov
backed by the majestic woods of Cliefden and lledsor, and on ih
ollitr, enriched by Windsor's proud castle, and picturcsijue for*
scenery .

urcsijue lom^^^H
Cavs^^^H

Canxox Hill, the seat of James Law, Esq. at Bray-Wick, has
been equcIi improved by the judicious taste of ibe present resident.
The grounds also have been considerably enlarged, and adapted
to the modern style of landscape gardening. Some nf the views
are eminently picturesque, but the character of the major part
is confined to the beautiful.

Monkey Island, seated in the river Thames, about three
(quarters of a mile from Bray, derives its name from s small
rostic building called Monkey-Hall, erected on this spot by the
late Duke of Marlborough, The sides of this apartment are
fancifully painted with a number of monkies, dressed in human
a.pparel, and imitating human artions. Some are represented
diverting themselves with fishing, othen with hunting, &c. One
is delineated gravely sitting in a boat, smoaking, while a female'
_matermaii is laboring at the oar, and rowing him across a river.
The ceiling and cornice are decorated with resemblances of a
suuUy grow at the water side. In
Ll the cxpcnce of the Duke, on this .
n elegant saloon, painli>d with green
and gold, and enriched with figures in stucco work superbly gilt,
representing mermaids, sea-lions, fish, shells, and other objects.
The island is at present rented by Henry Townly Ward, Esq. who
purchased the lease in the year 173? for 240 guineas. 'ITiis gen-
tleman has a seat in the neighbourhood, between Bray and
Windsor, called The Willows, the grounds of which he has
considerably improved. A moorish swamp, formerly covered
with osier, has been drained by his exertioos, and Converted into
a. beautiful lawn. The pleasure grounds are connected by a sub-
terraneous passage, with a small farm called Bullock's Hatch,
which is likewise the property of Mr. Ward, The prospect of
the noble buildings of Eton and Wi4kor, from the Willows, hat
been termed by a late writer* imeijuatkd.

* Sm Irtland'i PictUTcsqut Vicwi on die i

variety of those flowers that i
another building, raised also
island, named the Temple, is ;

19& BERKSHIRE.

WINDSOR

Was supposed by Camden tn derive its n amc from Windleihora^
a Saxon t(Min. cxprtssive of -xindiiiff bunksy and in this place ap-
plied with peruliar jiropriety to the meandering course of the
Thames. The earliest authentic information concerning its his-
tory is contained in a charter of Edward the Confessor's, by
vhich it was granted, with various other lands, to the monastery
of St. Peter, Westminster. This valuable gift continued bufe %
short time in the possession of the abbey. A district faTorad bj
na^ture with so many charms, and so peculiarly adapted. to tbm
sports of the field, could not be e'xpected to escape the attention ^f
a Monarch whose darling passion was the chase. William tke Con?
queror was no sooner established on the throne, than he obaervM
the beauties of this situation, and quickly prevailed on the abbot
to exchange it for certain lands and manors in Essex* Thus
it was again vested in the Crown, where, with the exception of
the time of the Commonwealth, it has ever since remuned.

Windsor is frequently distinguished by the appellative NfWy that
it may not bo confounded with the village of the same name, but
of higher antiquity, about two miles distant.* Its origin seems to
be connected with the castle, on which (^ven now its consequence
is in some measure dependant ; the trade being greatly promoted
by the expenditure of the numerous visitants, which this fabric
never (ails to attract when it becomes the residence of the
Sovereign. Edward the First constituted the town a free borough,
and invested its inhabitants with several privileges, which were
aftcnvards confirmed and enlarged by succeeding Monarchs.
During the civil wars, all its franchises and immunities were in-
volved in the common ruin;J)Ut on the Restoration, anew charter

* was

* Old Windsor is said, in the Donicsday-book, to consist of lOO houKS,
twenty-two of which were excnipud from taxes. Previous to the Conquest, it
is reported to have formvd a strong paas, and to have been the seat of sevenl
Saxon Kings; hut i'rom the period when the Conqueror fixed his residence on
the neighbouring hill, it gradually decayed ; the now town, which sprung up
under the protection of the fortress, having superior attractions.

DERKSIIIRE.

)99

was granted by Chftrlcs the Second, tlie provisions of which were
stiperseded by his successor, but restored at the Revolution, and
have ever t,incc been enforced in the government of the town.

The corporation consists of from twenty-eight to tliiriy bre-
thren; ten of whom are denominiiied aldermen; the remainder,
benchers and biirgess«. The mayor and justice are annually
chosen trom the aldermen; and on the same day two bailie are
elected from the burgesses. Besides lliew, the mayor, bailiffs,
&c. are empowered to chusc a. high steward, chamberlain, under
steward, town-clerk, and other subordinate oHicers, This borough
sent members to Parliament in the thirtieth year of Edward tiie Firrt,
and again in the seventh of Edward the Second. From that time till
the twenty-fiflh of Henry the Sixth, there appears lo have been
no return: since that period, it has been regularly rpprescnted.
The right of election was originally vested in the coi-poralions
but this privilege being occasionally contested, was at length
overturned in the year 169O, and the liberty of voting extended
to all the inhabitants paying scot and lot. By this decision the
celebrated Sir Christopher Wren, who had been chosen by the
mayor and bur;;esses, was excluded the Houue. The number of
voters is about S80.'

This town consitts of six principal streets, and several inferior
ones. The f riner are well paved and lighted ; and to defray
the expcnces, a small rate is levied on the inhabitants, by
commissioners appointed under the authority of an act passed
in the year 1769. The Guildhall is a stalely fabric, supported
with columns and arches of Portland stone. The room wherein
the corporation meet for the transaction of public business is
spacious and convenient. It is adorned with the portraits of
the Sovereigns of England, from James the First to Queen Anne ;
and also with those of George, Prince of Denmark, Prince Ru-
pert, Archbishop Laud, Sic. In a niche on the north side of
this structure is a statue of Queen Anne, dressed in her royal
robes, and supporting the globe and sceptre. Beneath, in tho
frieze of the entablature of the lesser columns and arches, is 8
Latin inscription to this cftect :

4 Erected

200 BERKSHIRE.

Erected in the 6th Year of her Reign,

1707.

Sculptor, thy art is vain. It cannot trace

The semblance of the matchless Anna's grace.

Thou mayst as soon to high Olympus fly.

And carve the model of some Deity.

S. Chapman, Mayor.

This was executed at the charge of the corporation, from mo-
tives of gratitude to the Queen, who always resided at Windsor
during the summer. In ancnher niche, on the loudi side, is the
statue of P&iNCB Gbo&ob, of DenmariE, her Biajesty's consoity
in a Roman military habit, erected by Sir Christopher Wren in
the year 1713. In the area under the hall, the con marhet it
held weekly^ The church is an ancient and qpacioiis &bfic, dadi«
cated to St. John the Baptist. Within it aie several handsomtt
monuments, to record the memory of respectable families, and
a good organ, removed from St. Geoige*s Chapel, and p r ese nte d
to the parish by his Majesty. The donations fi>r the use of the
poor have been very numerous ; and the funds being assisted bj
some grants from the crown, have occasioned die rates for their
support to be less burthensome here, than in many other {daces.
In the year 1706, a neat free school was erected on the north
side of the church for thirty boys and twenty girls, who are
clothed and educated, partly by subscription, and partly l^ the
income arising from several legacies.

The buildings in this town are chiefly of brick. The number
of houses is about 550. The inhabitants are computed at 3000.
In the year 1784 his Majesty was presented with a piece of land
by the corporation, for the erection of an hospital for sick sol-
diers. The building was begun and completed the same year. It
consists of two wards, sufficiently spacious to accommodate upwards
of forty men, with some additional apartments for the use of the
attendants. In the summer of 1793 a small, yet elegpmt theatre
was erected here, at the expence of Mr. Thornton, the manager.
The seasons of representation are restricted by the Lord Cham*
berlain'ji license to the Eton vacations, but the company have

lately

•Ill

SEKKSHIEIB. 301

Ulely obtained Jpermission from the magistrates to perform during
L the Ascot racn. The system odoptetl by nd ministration to cod-
L centrate tlie military force, vras carrit'il into effect at Windsor in
I the year 1795, when extensive and convenient barracks were
ll)uili for 750 infantry; and a large building is now erecting
I fcr the reception of about 400 cavaiiy. The parish of New
ifWindsor, according to a late survey, contains 26l8 acres, which,
E exclusive of the space occupied by the buildings, are principally
■ flisposed into parks, gardens, ajid pleasure grounds.

WINDSOR CASTLE,

The magniGccnt residence of the British Sovereigns, is most

delightfully situated on the summit of a lofty hill, whose hose is

laved by the pellucid waters of the Thames. The prospects to

— Ibe east, west, and north, are extensive and beautiful, being en-

■Hvcned by the windings of the river, and variegated with elegant

I^Biansions, luxuriant meadows, and gentle eminences, covered

with the rich foliage of innumerable woods. On the south, the

view is bounded by the wild and picturesque sctnery of the Forest,

. jntermiogled with a great variety of verdant accompaniments.

Here liilli ind valei, the woodlind ind the pli'ii
HeiE csith and wticr letm to iliivc igiin;
Not cluDs like, logahcT crusli'd md bruis'd.
But, ai ihr world, harnionjoukly confui'd ;
Where ordei in viticiy we tee.
And where, tbo' all ihiogi differ, all agree.

^^^^neror, who had no soonct negociiited the exchange before
nentioneil, than he erected a castle or palace on this spot, as a
hunting seat. He iJso designed the parks, extended the bounda-
ries of the Forest, and established rigid laws for the preservation
f the game. Henry the First considerably improved the edifice
Which his father had erected, enlarged it with additional buildings,
^d, for greater security, surrounded the whole with a strong
nil. The alterations made by liiis Piincu neru so important and

3S# BEEKSUIRE.

From 1364 to 1370, the erection of the castle seems to have
pToreiMled iviih much rapidity ; " artiiicere brine yearly impresMd
for the King's semce:" from that time till the year 1375, this
harth measure appears to have been abandoned ; and as the Mo-
narch died in 1377, we may conclude that the principal pBit of
Itiii magniriccnt structnre was completed at the above petiod.

The facts displayed in this narrative furnish some inter«stii^
'remarks on the manners of the fourteenth century. They point
out the \-ery degraded slate in which the Britons of that period
were contented to exist. The tneaiiatc of the Prince was effi-
cient aiithority both for the infnngcmonl of personul liberty and
individual property; and hiij uiU was as much observed and
obeyed, as the obligations of an act of Parliament. The talenb
of the subject were fettered to the Monarch's caprice, and their
reward ref>ulated by his pleasure. The a-io/c of the possessioBS
of the governed, appears to have l>een at the King's disposal; tot
we find that eve* bis writ, directed tu the slierilfs, and unauthori-
zed by the consent of [he other branches of the legislature, was
■ sufficient warrant for the confiscation of all the cftecls of the
persons who gave employment to an oppressed workman. Those
days were indeed roil ; and it cannot be denied that every injured
suflerer had full license to exclaim, with the poet, " ^m
SK/iora,"

Many alterations and additional buildings have been made in
the castle by the successors of this Moimrch. Edward the Fourth
enlarged and rebuilt the beauliful chapel of St. (icorgc, Henry
the Seventh vaulted ilic roof of the choir of that structure, and
•rected the spacious Jabric adjoining llie King's apartments in the
upper ward. Henry the Eighth rebuilt the great gate in the lower
ward. Edward the Sixth, and Mary, his successor, had a
fountain of curious workmanship made in the centre of the upper
court, to su])ply the castle with water. Queen Elizabeth raised
the noble terrace on the north side, which commands an unbound-
ed prospect over one of the jnosl beautiful vallics in the kingdom.
CJiarles the First matt several ipiprovemcnts, and erected a gate
lending to the pack; but, duriiig die coniulsiuns which shoilly

ensued.

BKRKBBIBB. 305

M^Ute oastle nas despoiled of many of its ornsments, and
the palace of the Monarch bccnnic his prison. Cbiiilcs llit Second
repaired :ind embcllislied the whole structure, decorated th«
apartments with numerous lint^ paintings, pstablishod a magazine
of arms, and continued the tcfracc round the cast and south sides
of the upper court. 'ITus walk is faced with a rampart of free
stone, and extends M the length of ()25 yards, being only inferior
to the terrace of the Scrasiio at Constantinople. \'nrious altera-
tions have been made by succeeding I'rinccs ; but the principsl
improvements during this and the last century have been eftecicd
by the reigning Sovereign, ivlio»e muniliceDt plans fur the embcl'
lishment of this structure h:ive &r exceeded the designs of his
predecessors. Under his direction the Chapel of St. George ha*
been completely repaired, and superbly decorated. It now fornts
as perfect an exemplar ol' beauty, elegance, and unison of parts,
a&any edifice in the kingdom. The ditches also, which skirted
the east and south sides of the castlu, have been filled up, and
the ground levelled. The rooms have been furnished with new
paintings; and many of the windows* on the north side of tha
upper court enlarged, and adapted to the gothic style of archi-
tecture. Further ijnproveiiienta are in cuntemplation, particularly
the erection of a chapel in the Horn Court, which is to be orna-
mented with upwards of thirtv paintings by Bunjamiu Wi-st, hi^.
The subjects to be taken I'rom the evidences of revealed religion.
This majestic edifice is divided in two courts, called the upper
and lower wards, which are separated by The Keep, or UoirND
Tower, built on a lofiy ailiticlal mount, surroitiidcd with a
moat, in the centre of the castle. The ascent to the up)ier apait-
mentsisby a lung flight of stone steps, guarded by acunnon plant-
ed at the top, and levelled at the entrance. The curtain of the
tower b the only battery now iu the castle: round it are seven-
teen pieces of ordnance, which seemingly retain their situation
more us objects of ornament thaii utility. ■ The summit of this
, building

• All the windowidF the conn irtm

ended lo be made mtoihlirom: bat

Ihc illnctt of hi! M^icHy h» occuiontd

Utay odicr proJMtcd altcratioiu arc deli

vci by lIic iime ciuie.

906 BERKSHtKE.

bnililing presents a combinatioii of the most Interesting v
England. The immense variety of objects included w
iphere [>f visii>n from this spot, excite the most pleasant si
The windings of the Thamea througli a wide extent of countrj-,
the scenery o( the forest, the venerable groves, the busy hamlets,
the variegated fields, tlie crouded towns, and all the viiricty of
elegant mansions embosomed in wood, and tastefully situated on
the borders of the river, mill^le in ihe landscape, and compose a
picture, which the hixurianl pencil O'f the most IVrtdf imagination
night fail to delineate. The names of the following counbea, ta
be seen from this tower, ore inscribed on a board nesr ihti sum-
mit. Middlesex, Essex, Hertford, Bticlu, Beriis, Oxford, WJlO,
Hants, Surrey, Sussex, Kent, and Bedford. On a clear day, the
dome of St. Paul's Cathedral may be plainly distinguished. Tha
joyal standard is displayed from tlie summit of the lower when-
ever the King is at \Vindsor, and also on state holidays. This
flag is fourteen yards long, and eight broad.

The principal curiosities in this fabric are the arms preserved
in the Guard Chambf.h. These consist of whole, half, and
quarter pikes, bandoleers of various figures, and some of the first
matchlocks that ever nere constructed. The pillars of the door
which lead to the dining-room are composed of pikes, on th« tojK
of which are two coals of mail, ^aid to have been worn by John,
King of France, and David, King of Scotland, when prisonert in
the castle. They are inlaid with gold; that belonging to the for-
mer Prince, is ornamented with Jcvr des lis; thai worn by the
latter, with thistles.

This lower is the residence of the constable or governor, whose
office is both military and civil. He is invited with full powen
to guard the castle against every enemy, foreign and domestic;
and also lo investigate and determine all disputes that may arise
within the precincts of Windsor Forest, which, from a manuscript
descnptoD of this manor, written by John Norden, and now is
the British Museum, is 77 miles and a half in circumference.

The upper ward is a spacitius quadrangle, composed of tJie
' Tound tower on the west; the private apartments of their MilJ(*>

BERKSHIRE. ' tai

Wl^t &c. on tbe soutli and east; hhiI the royal apartments, usually
' khown to stmngcrs, St, Georjie's Hall, and the Chaiiel Royal, on
Cfae north. Nearly in the centre of the court \s a large ei^uestriaji
■tacue of Charles the Second in copper, placed on a marble
^destal, which is ornamented with some nautical devices, bcauti-
iiilly carved in ba«t>o relievo, by Gibbons, " The fmit, tish, and
■implements of shipping," observes Walpole, "are all exquisite;
the man and horse may serve for a sign to diaw a passenger's eye
to the pedestal. " Beneath the statue is a curious hydraulic en-
gine, invenled by Sir Samuel Morland, who was appointed
MagUttr Mcchanieorum to the above Monarch in 1681.

1'he enlnuice to the Royal Apartments is through a vesti-
bule supported by Ionic columns. The staircase leading to the
dificrent chamber* was painted by Sir James ThomhJll. It is now
undergoing a total alteration from the designs of Mr, Wyait.
Almost every room in this division of the castle is ornamented
with paintings; but as many of these are not ori^nal, and as
others are only possessed of inferior merit, we shall wave the
description of all but those which are the most cininenl. Some
^ other curiosities will be mentioned incidentally.

Those inestimable productions of human genius, Thb Car-
TUONS of the celebrated Raphael, are unquestionably the first
• peces that merit attention in tliis collection. These are disposed in
two apartments, respectively entitled, Thf, Quefs's Presescb
CuAMBER, and This Kino's Presence Chamber. The
subjects represent some very interesting events from the New
Testament, and are as follows :

The Miraculous Draught of Fishes : Luke, Chap. v.

Peter and Johs healing the Cripfls at the Gate
Of THE Temple: Acts, Chap. iii.

St. Paul and Barnabas at Lystra : Acts, Chap. xiv.

Elvuas the Sorcerer struck Blind ; Acts, Chap. xiii.

The Death or Ananias: Acts, Chap. v.

Otra Saviour oivind the Charob to Peter : St. John,
' Chap. xxi.

L PREACHING AT Athxns: Acts, Chap. xvii.

These pieces, so deservedly applauded throughout Europe for
their unequallud v&riety of character, matchless expression, and
excellence of composition, were originally designed as patteros
for tapestry, to adorn the pontifical apartments of Leo the
Tenth, at Rome. They form only a small part of the scriptural
designs executed by the i^reat artist when engaged in the cham-
bers of the Vatican, and have, by an uncommon series of favoi^
able circumstances, buen preserved to embellish the castle vihere
they are now situated. When linished, they were sent to
Flanders, and traced in tajwalry under the direction of Van
Orlcy and Michael CoxJs : but Leo and Raphael both dying
before the work was completed, the tapestries were not carried
to the seat of the papal government for several years; pro-
bably not till after the sacking of Rome in the time of Cle-
ment the Seventh. At that disastrous period, the scholars of
Raphael fted ; and none being left to inquire for the original de-
signs, they lay neglected and despised in the store rooms of the
manufactory. Here, nearly a century after the death of the ar-
tist, they were seen by Rubens, who, with an energy proportioned
to llieir extraordinary merit, prevailed on Charles the First to
purchase, and iiavc them brought to £nglanil.

" At the sale of this Monarch's effects after his death, Ihey
were purchased by the order of Cromwell, who commissioned
one of his officers to bid for them, and publicly to declare the
bidding as for his Highness. Fifty pounds was the sum offered ;
and such was the respect or dread of tlie name of the bidder,
that they were instantly knocked down to him; though at the
same time it was known, unlimited commissions were then in the
room from France, Spain, Italy, &c. Much praise is certainly
due to the Protector in this transaction, who, although no con-
noisseur, was well aware of the high value of these works, which
he afterwards, in a slate-exigency, pawned to the Dutch for fifty
thousand pounds. They remained in Holland till the Revolution;
after which King William ordered them hither, when they were
deposited in a gallery buiil expressly for their reception at Hamp-
tou Court."

From

BERKSHIRE. S09

. From this palace they were removed in the year 1766 to Butlt-
Mi;;liain-tIouse, where th^ remained lill 1788, when tliey werti
again destined to chungc their station. Uenjamiii West, Esq.
the worthy President ollhe lloyal Academy, aolicited His Majesty
to have them removed to ^Vindsor Costlc, where the purity of the
air will probably pri'Servu them for centuries longer than if they
had continued expoi^d tu the smoky atmosphere of the Metro-
fiolis. Some of the^ paintings ivcrp. injured by the humid e\lia-
talionii in tlie vicitiity of Uiimplun Court ; and all of them appear
to have been much damaged by the ireatmt?nt they received when
used t\s patterns fur the tapcstrvi Tlie extremities uf the figures
an: full uf pin-bolea, made fur the workmen to pounce the out'
tines; and otiier parts are almu%t cut through in tracing. The
dimensions of two or three of the Cartoons appear to have been cur-
tailed ; and in several places they have been patched and retouched,
to the extreme detriment of the workmanship of iheoriginal artist.

Though the essentials of design, composition, and expression,
re concentrated in these productions,* they are not j'auitletai
yet, in the opinion of the most eminent judges of the art, the ef-
j forts of human ability were never so nearly allied to perfection.
To trace their defects, would be to depreciate the lustre of the
sou, on account of the dim spots which aometimes obscure itl
qtlendor. " Their author," Bays !Mr. Holloway, " has frequently

Vol. I. P beeK

* Copiei of these lubltmc pcrraimmca have freqilcotly been mida. Thoi*
' of Sir Jimex TharnhlU irc iinquciiionabty tbe bat. Th^ arc the umc iii« U
mil, and were purchaKd al ihe artiit'i iaie in 1735, by the late Duke of
Bedford, for icx> guinat. His ilcacEndanI, the preient Duke, fTCitntid ihcm
D the Royil Academy in 1800. Thii gencrout exaiDpIe, we hope, will be
' /ollowud by timilac donalimu. It it lioie ihal a Britlih naliopal galltiy fhould
^bc eiubliihed for die improvemeni of itiidenti. The cariooiu hive aha beea
aved by Ctibelin aod Dorigny, but veiy indilferently by both iniiti. Ur.
T: Holloway hat iisued propoials [or eiignving Ihetn 1 third time, and faai
le contiderable progreu lu hii uodeicakiog. The ■ngnvingi are M be accom-
icd with a mimeii o{ ilie paintrt, lad an aaalyiii of hit wotlu on piofe*>
lal ptinf ipk>. Mr. Fuieli [in hii Lecture) juK publiihtd) nam, I
t " ihiilua oi ihcie magnificent dejlgns, which repi.arnifd ihcoiig:
[ ^pn, iitonotny and piugrcii of the Chiljlian Religion, "—See LcilLre 1

^:,V

bbuksiiihe.

been styJed the dixint R\ph
additional dignity on a namt-,
much denotes the painter, as ihal oi ilomrr,

Eutogiunis on tiic talents and genius of Raphael have been »

: but epithets can confer r
iijupic eK)>ression of ^hich i

numerous, that it
to charactcri:<e bi

His

'uuid be almost impossible
accomplishments. The attempt.

M,h01

and they mil Inng
memory. A few 11
Eclcclcd from tbo disi
of all other aitists, ur
date the merit of Raphae
" Thp excellency of th
aird mftjesty of his
composiiio

>leed, is

works arc sufficient lestimouies of his skill ;
to embalm kis fame, and consecrate hit

u the poiiYM of fn E Paihteb,
)urses of Sir Josluia Reynolds, who,
, perhaps, (he most capable to apprc'
, may not be untie ceptable.
s extraordinary iimd lay in the beaut*
judicious contrivance of his
iwing, purity of tasic. powers
, and the skilful accommodation of other men's con-
ceptions to his own purposes. Nobody excelled him in that
judgment, to which he nniled to his own obscrralioos on nature,
the energy of MiciiAEi. Akqei.O> &ad the beauty aitd simplicity
of the anti<|Ue."

Till: Queen's Phlsence C'kambeh, in addition to three
of the above cartooi^, contains the portraits of James the
First, by Vandjck, and Ed^'akd the Third, and his son
the BiACK PiiisCE, by Belcamp. Thew illustrious oharucter*
are drawn at full length, and were probably taken from original
resemblances, as ifae artist was employed by Charles Chc First tt>
copy his pictures.

In THE Queen's Avuience Cuahsek is a canopy of Eng*
lish velvet, set up by Queen Anne, and a laige painting repre-
senting His Majesty reviewing the third, or Prince of Wales's
regiment of dragoon guards, and the tenth, or Prince of Wales's
Tc^ment of light dragoon guards, by Sir William lleechcy. This
is a very grand and iolercstii^ performance. The principal
figures are on horseback, finely grouped in the centre, and on the
right of the picture. His Majesty is seated on his chatter, and
accoiupaiiied by the Prince of Wales, who appears f^ving th»

word

BEHK5H1RB.

211

~JS)S of cammand ; the Duke of York; and the Generals, Sir
William Fawcett, Dundas, and Goldswonhy. These ligurcs are as
large as life, and are t;enerally considered as good likenesses. The
manoeuvering of the troops in the distance, and the efiect intror

. duced by the arlisl in his sky, are peculiarly well managed. The
extent of the canvas is sixteen feet by thirteen. Thia painung has
been engraved.

In the Ball-Room are the portraits of WitLiAH, Earl or
pEMBKOK£, by Vansoraer; the Duke of Hamiltow, by Han-
neman; and the Duchess oe Richmond, by Vandyck. The
latter picture represents ber Grace in the character of St. Agnes,
with characteristic symbols. The drapery is well disposed, and
the face and arms are beautifully drawn and colored.

The Queens Drawing-Room is embeUished with the fol-
lowing beaut ifol paintings.
Judith and Holoi<;rnes: Guido.

Lady Veketia Digby: Vandyck. The extraordinarjr
beauty and singular fame of Lady Digby, were no exemptions
from the malevolence of detraction and envy. But the shafts fell
harmless; and the artist, in this picture, has veiled the circum-
■tances by allegory. The dove is introduced to express her in-
nocence: the serpent, uhich she handles with impunity, shows
her superiority over the envenomed tongue of slander ; and the
figure of Calumny with two faces, bound and thrown on the ground
behind her, is demonstrative of her triumph over the malice of
her defamers. Sir Kenelm Digby, her husband, was so ena-
moured of her charms, that be tried various whimsical experiments
to improve them. Among other chimerical expedients, he
prevailed on her to feed on the flesh of vipers; and was con-
tinually inventing some new cosmetic to heighten her complexion.
To these arts, more expressive of Paphian biandishmont than
chaste affection, she probably fell a victim, being found dead in
ber bed on the ist of May, lfl33, in the thirty-third year of her

De Be ay asd in> Family, in the characters of Marc Anlho-

|iy, Cleopatra, &c. Tliis piece was executed by De Bray himself, ■

P 2 Flemish

«IS

BERKSHIRE.

Fiemish artist, who was distinguished for Ihe fidelity of Lis
pnrlraits, ami correctness of his drawings; yet this specimen is
not calculated to raise his pretensions in the scale of fame.
• KiLLEGKEW audCarew: Dobson. Killegrew is described
by hlstorinna as a person whose " gibes and fiaslies of merriment
were wont to set the table in a roar." He was master of the re\-eis
to Charles the Second, and commonly styled the King's Jester,
though wc have no authority forsiipposing there was any appoint-
ment of that nalui-e in the British Court at so late a period. His
education was purposely adapted to the precincts of a throne;
and all his acquired accomplishments were directed to attract th*
sunshine of royal fuvor. Wit and humor he possessed in an emi-
nent degree, yet the judgment that should have directed them .
lo virtuous endf, appears to have been wanting. His convivial
qualities involved him in every dissipation of a lincenlious court,
where vice and infamy were the harbingers of prosperity, and the
promiscuous intercourse of the sexes, tlie avowed tenet of its
inmates. He died at Whitehall on the Iplh of March, l68?,
and was buried amidst tlie bewailings of the poor, to whom,
whatever were his errors, he had always been a friend.

TiieQueek's Bed-Chahbeh is furnished with a sumptuom
bed. llie furniture is of rich blue and white satin, embroidered
with elegant flowers, executed by Mrs. Wright. The principal
puintings are six lai^c landscapes, by Zuccarclli, bought of Mr.
Smith, late Consul at Venice ; and a full length portrait of Her
IMajesty, by West. This is regarded as one of the best likenesses
of the (jueen that has jet been executed. The artist has parti-
cularly attended to the <|uakcr-like neatness of dress to which Her
Majesty was extremely partial at the period when it was taken.
The back-ground is enlivened by a distant view of Windsor Castle,
with fourteen of the royal offspringrepresentedplnyingon the lawn,

Thb Room of Beaijties is so named from its being deco-
rated with the portraits of fourteen ladies distinguished for their
attractive charms in the reign of Charics the Second. •' The
Btautics of Windsor," observes Horace Walpulo, " are the Court
-' of

BERKSUIKB. 213

of Pophos, and ought to lie engraved lor the memoirs of il» clior-
ming hiatoriographer-"" TJie suggestion of tliis eminent wriler on
the polite arts has been partly carried into etlect, and a new etlilion
of the performance alluded to, published with cngravingi fiosa wnia.
of thcsp originals. We shall enliven <iur list of these beautiful I'lj-
toaies with a lew anecdotes principally derived from that work.

The Duchess of Richmonu, a lady of exquisite beaulyi
but infcriur talent, reported by the Count de GrammonC to be one
of Charles the Secoml'* mistresses; but tliis is contradicted by
Bishop Burnet, nho says, that " tlie King designed to legitimata
his aiiresses to her, when he saw no hope of suaceediug any other
way," The latter part of the good prelate's assertion is very
doubtful; but that Charles had designs of raising her to the
throne is unquestionable ; and metiRs, it has been said, were iti
agitation to prqcure a divorcg from the Queen with that intent,
when her marriage with the Duke of Richmond, whom Charles
but a short time before had discovered at midnij^iht in her bed-
chamber, prevented the plan being effected. The King was highly
incensed: but the weight ut* his displeasure fell on Lord Clareadoit,
who was supposed to have pronioted the match, to present the
evils attendant on a disputed sitccess'on,
Ladv [lOCIIESTEa.

Ladt Dekha>}, Tliis unfortunate female was related Iq
George Digby, Earl of Bristol, and had been introduced at a
very early age into the festive parties which that nobleman was
continually forming to engage the favor of the King, Eiylowed by
qattirc with a heart too susceptible of soft impressions, and cap-
t)valctl with tlie smiles of royalty, she was only sav^d from lb?
^ibnices of Charles by [he jealousy of Lady Castlenjaine. He^
tendernc^ was afterwards ^sailed by (he t)ulic of Yo'''* i hut
circumstances at that period induceil her to prefer tl^e [lonorablo
advances of Sir John Denham, w[io having rjdicukd wedloci;
.during a long life, thought proper, at the age of seventy-nine, lo
nu^ry a sprightly virgin of eighteen ! This cyeijt led to her death.
?^.

* pouni HimiltaAi aulhai of the N{entoiii de t^iimmont.

314

bzukshirb.

The Duke prosecuted his addressCJ; ttnd the lady violated her
marriage vow on the promise of being made lady of the bed-
chamber to the Dtichess. The amour was discovered by her hus-
band ; and, "merciless fate robbed her of life, and of her dearcsl
hopes, in the bloom of youth." Tlie publications of the dav
insiniiBte that she was deprived of life by a mixture infused into
some chocolate.

Lady Sunderland.

Miss Brooks, afterwards Lady Whitiflore; Lady Denham's
sister.

Mrs. Jane Middletov, A Coquette, handsome, and of
small fortune: three dangerous enemies to female \iriue. Her
love of magnificence generated difticulties, which the presents of her
admirers were necessary to remove. Though fond of accepting
favors, she was but lardy in making returns. In converMtion,
she affected wit, and became tiresome; and the reputation of her
tediouaness outlived the rrtncmbraiice of her beauty.

The Countess op Northombebland,

Miss Hamilton, afterwards Lady Grammont. lUustriom
both for beanty and accomplishments, this female was one of tho
most brilliant ornaments of Charles's court, where, in the midst of
unlimited freedom between the sexes, she preserved lier reputa-
tion and character. Even the unsteady Count de Grammont, whoM
passion for the fair sex had induced him to rival Louis the XlVth,
and had been the cause of his banishment from Che ccurt of Fi'anc«,
was captivated with her charms, and the solidity of her menial aC-
complishmcnls, and, as the " reward of a constancy which he had
never before known, and never aftenvards practiiied, was at
length blessed witli her i)os*cssion." The Count was a man of
splendid col!o(juial powers ; and the readiness of his wii not unfre-
quenlly relieved him from embarrassing situations. This was par-
ticularly apparent on the eve of his departure lo France; for
having commenced his journey without a proper conclusion of hii
engagements with Miss Hamilton, he was pursued by her brothers,
who JQtendcd to exchange some pistol shot with him. They ovet-
took him new Dover, and called out, "Couat Grammont, have

215

" answered the

n tn marry your

This Iftdy was

n of the lir&t Enrl

a Ibl^t nntSmg al Lnndon ?" " Excuse me,
[■^unt, guessing llicir errand, "' I have forgotte
T mter: so lead on, and let us finish that affair.""
I -daushter tb Sir George Hamilton, the fourth s<
) of Aberconi.

DuctiBss OF Somerset.

DucHPss OF Ci.EVELASD. "The annals of inliiray
' fcftve hardly ever been more dibtingiii<hed than by this female."t
I 6hc became the avowed mistress of [he King in llie year 1661,
I '^nd continued her intimacy with hira till about 1672, when she
LS delivered of a daughter, of whom Mr, Churchill, afterwards
V puke of Marlborough, was supposed to be jhe father. She was
Vkwomau of strong passions, and very outrageous temper; and
riwough guilty of numerous infidelities, preserved her influence
Fibvor the heurt of the fickle Sovereign, fur so long a period, by
rfirodueiDg him several children. Her amours, however, occa- '
r«onedviulent altercations, which generally closed with menaces of
rtearing her offspring into pieces, and sMtiug ihe King's palace on
When thus enraged, she resembled Medea less than her
B%dfBgons, Charles pHrdoned her guUantries, but could never
Ibrgivc her having a child by another man. Bishop Burnet, in the
F'jlistory of his owu Times, observes, that " she was u wumai^of
Ir^cat beautyi but most enormously wicked and ravenous; fuotish,
ijUt imperious ; very uneasy to the King, and always carrying on
Urigucs with other men, iviiile yet she pretended she was jealous
Pef him." She became Countess of Cxstlemaine in right of her
V£rst husband, but was created Duebess of Cleveland iu the year
■1670, as a bond of reconcilintion after a furious quarrel with
Pfcer Royal kee]KT. She died of a dropsy in I709.

The foregoing I'oi'iraits were executed by Sir Peter Leiy, at
ruhe deure of the Duchess of York. The artist exerted all his
Ridtill in the perfinmancc, and never, it has been aaidj could he
f Aave employed his pencil ujion more beautiful subjects, Walpule
1' 4 observes,

• Biog. Gjllir,. Vol. I.
f Mcm-iln of Ihe Count d. Cnmmoot. ^

abserves, that " Lely was the Ladies' painter;" aad whethei the
age was improved in beauty or in flattery, l/iiy'i women were cet-.
tainly much handsomer than those of Vandyck. They please
as ranch more, as they evidently meaned (o please ; he caught

the reigning character, and,

On the gnlmitrd eimai Mole '
The ilnpy eyt (hit jpoke (he meliing soul."

The there nf.M Porlrail^ wcr.- p^iintpd by \Vii,ing, one of Leiy's
pupils, and much esteemed. The Coustkss of Ossoby,
Mrs. Lawsom, and Mrs. Kvott. The remaining Portrait waa
executed by Huysnian, or Housman, and is generally said to *be
the likeness of Lady BvitoN; but this seems doublfiil, Vertue
was informed that it was drawn for Lady Bellasis, to whom
the Duke of York, a.? we are told by Purnct, gave a contract of
. marriage after the death of Anne Hyde, daujihler of the Earl of
Clarendon, his first wife. However this may be, tlie picture itself
is said, by Walpole, to be " at least us highly finished, and colo-
red with as much force, as Sir Peter Leiy's works in the same
chambpr ; though the lady who sat for it is the least handsome of
Jhe set." Six of these Portraits have been engi-aved in Mczzotinto
by T. Watson.

Una small closet adjoining The Queen's Dbesbisg Room,
.{he Banner of France ii deposited. This is annually presented,
pn the 2d of August, by the Heir of the Great Duke of Marl-
borough. By the observance of this tenure, the possession of the
magnifipcnt palace of Blenheim, which was built at the evpencc
pf the i)ation, and given to the Duke as a reward for his services,
K continued in that family. In ihjs apartment also, are some
heautitul cabinet pictures, particularly two heads, finely pen-
ciled, by Dcnnpr; a pair of Utndscapes, Teniersj an old Wo-
inan waterijig Flowpni, Gerard Douw ; the Inside of a Cottage,
with a Girl playing on a Spinnet, Mieria; and a Portrait of
p^hael, when a youth, by Lionardo da Vinci, The latter pic-
ture was brought from Italy by the late Lord Cooper, who pre-
■enled it to His Majesty. The tea er|uipage that belonged to
Queen Am&M Wf^ev/ii^ preserved in thif closet.

QrEEs

BERKSHIRE. 217

QuBEK Elizabeth's, or the Picture Gallery, is dc-
imtcU with a great number of piunlings by eminent artists. The
wt excelletit it re these.

Titian and Aretis. These ptirtrails arc painted on the
Vie canviiH by Titian. Aretiii is described in the catulogiie as a
nator of Venice, but was probably no other than the fajnous
tirist of the sixteenth century, whose invectives against sove*
Pfigns procured him the appellation of Scourge of' Priuca, Ho
>£ also celebrated for some hceniious sonnets, which he penned
illustiate the immodest drawings of Julio Romano. The luxu-
riant obscenity of the designs, and the gross impurity of the
ses, arc said to have been peculiarly suited to each other. Are-
died in the year 1536. It is unnecessary to comment on the
ribi of this picture, when it is declared to be the genuine per-

ice of the great Titian.
The Inside of a Cottage: D, Teniers. This is finely painted,
in good preserA'ation. In this beuuiiful picture is represented
young man and woman kissing, an old man, and various do-

( The Battle of Spurs, at Guinegast? in France A very ciirioin
IBCtitTc. This combat occurred in 1513, and was thus caUiHl
n the French having made mure use of their spurs than swordkk
to Two Misers: Quiatin Matsys. This fine performance is mov
tcly finished. The artist was a blacksmith, or rather a
Mrker in steel and iron, and is said to have been induced by the
id deity of love to fonakc the anvil and sledge, for the easel and
pencil. He deserted his original profession, and, by incessant la-
bpur, acquired a distinguished celebrity in Ihe new art which he
d chosen. }Iis productions display much genius; but the great-
ssuf his fame seems to haveariseu from accidental circumstanccn,
father than superlative merit. He whs born in 14450, and died
il die year 1529. T^" picture has been linely engraved by Ear-
Inn. It has been said that the beautiful steel tomb in St. George's
Cbapcl was executed by Matsys.

A Boy with Puppies: Luca Giordano; generally said to have
a executed by Murillo; but we are assured by Mr. Vest, that
St is a true Gioidauo. It is a very masterly productim.

A small

I
I

ai8 BERKSIIIKE.

A small Lendscapp, with figures at an ale-house door; D.
Tenien. Esicemed as one of the best landscapes of this artist.

The Converlpci Chinese : Sir Godfrey Kneller. This is unques-
tionably Ihe finest piece that ever Kneller executed; and the
painter himself appears to have had the same opinion; for when
any person criticised on his basty and slovenly pevfonnances, he
exclaimed, " Pho, pho: it will not be thought mine; nobody
will believe that the same man painted this aiid fhc Chinese al
Windsor."

The Angel delivering St. Peter from Prison: Sleenwyck.

A Landscnpe: Swanevelt.

The Embahbatiow of Henrt the Eighth at Doviit,
May 31, 1520, preparatorv to his interview with Francis the
First. In this ven* curious and ancient pamting the ship called
Harry Grace de Dim, or the Great Harry," is represented sailii^
out of Dover harbour ; she has four masis, with two ronnd-tops
on each mast. Tl)c royal standard is fiying on the four corners
of the forecastle. The sails bi« unfuiled, and the pennants are
waving on the mast heads. At each quarter of the deck is •
standard of St. Geon;e's cross, and also healer shields, or targets.
charged differently with the cross of St. George. The sides and
fnps have the same ornaments. The sails and pennants are c^
riolh of gold, damasked. On the main deck the Kino is stand*
tng, with attendants on cither hand. The arms of England and
France, quarterly, arc depicted on the front of the forecastle,
and also on llie ship's stern. On the rij^ht of the Great Harrj- is
a three masted ship, with her sails furled, and decorated with
pennants and standards, iler sides and tops are ornamented with
shields. Tltese ship are followed by three more, and those

* Thii ihif, ihc Jirgut u [hit lime in (he mry, wis huib by Henry Ihc
Eighth, toon ifier ihe bMtIc between (he Krgmi, ot Snertign, and ■ Fiench
Cirrick, iiincil ibt Cnitiiir. In the tngngcment the ihipi weic gripplml
lagclheriind unftinuniltlytiking fi:t, were both caniu me d, tnd ilJ ihcir men bui-
ritd in the wiv«. After (his dreadful aeeideot the fl»u iep»r»tcd, ind retired
la thcic leipeoive poru. The Cieat Kuiy wu burat al WooWicb by llu
cirtlcisneu oFiIm maiiiiers.

BEHKSnlRe.

C19

by two others, all of which are decorated nearly in the same
manner aa the first. Round the ships are several boats, with
broad pennants, some of which seem filled with persons of dis-
tinction, aiid others with inferior passenf^rs. In the offing, a
variety of vessels are represented under weigh ; and in the distance
are the faint glimmerings of the white clifis on ihc coast of France.
In the fore-grounJ are two circular forts, communicating by a ter-
race, sitnnttd close to the water's edge, firing a royal salute; one
of them from two tier of cannon ; the other, from three. On tha
platform of the most western furt is a man displaying the colon
of St. George. Near the centre of the terrace i' a gentleman, pm-
bably Sir Edivard Poynings, then constable of Dover Castle, in a
green and yellow jacket, with slashed sleeves, and breeches, and
white stockings. Round his neck is a yellow ruff, and over the
whole a black cloak. Preceding him arc two bill'men, wilh an *
officer bearing a sword of stale. On the hill, which forms the
Oppohitc point of the harbour, is Dover Castle. Several of the
towers correspond with the appearance which (hat stupendous
bnilding now exhibits. All the ships are croudcd with passengers,
and have iron and brass cannon pointed out of the port-holes.
In this visit to the continent, Henry was attended by tiie Cardinal
I^»Bte, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and most of the princio^
noblemen and great officers in the kingdom. The number of po7
s that Kccompauicd their Majesties is dxed by the accurate
Stow at *SS*t besides the attendants of the Cardinal, and of
the dowager fVench Queen, and her husband the Duke of SulTolk.
ThelsrEBviEw of Hksry the Eioiith, with Frakcis
HE First, between GuSnes and Ardres. near Calais, in the
ear 1520, on an open plain, since denominated. Tie Champ de
Drop tCOr. 'I'his inieresliiig and elaborate picture is the corn-
on to the above, and wa' probably executed in (he same age,
and by the same urii»i. It contains a rtsiiresi-nlution of almost
every circumstance in progression from the outset to the conclusioa
of the interview. Historical and local truth are particularly ob-
served in every part of ilie pieinre; and the extraordinary vigi-
lance of the painter i'' manifcieil bv hiv niiniili' ilelim-iilion of

the

320 BZSKSIttSK.

the various circumstances transacted during the twenty days
which the Kings of f.ngland and France passed in each other's com-
pany. Who the anisi was cannot be ascertained, but the piece
was evidently executed within a very short period afterthe occur-
rence of the events which it records. The principal cbaractera
arc faithful pord-aits ; and the detail of the transactions is so full
and accurate, as to render it almost impossible to be executed
by any other than an eye witness. The interview took place oa
the 7th of June, 1520; and the remainder of the time that it
lasted, was spent in reciprocal visits, splendid banquets, tilts,
tournaments, and other martial exercises. Both Kiijg^ strove to
outvie each other in the Kumptuousness of tlieir apparel, and the
OiBgnificencc of their treats. The tents and pavilious destined for
the conference between the Sovereigns, and the others appropri-
ated for their repose, were covered with cloth of gold; and the
embroidered and splendid habits of the nobility and attendants
were so c^cessively rich, that the place of meeting has ever since
been called the fieldof Cloth of Gold, Immense crouds of people
from both kingdoms attended the interview, and partook of the
luxuriant entertainment which the liberality of Henry and Fran-
cis had provided. In the front of a inagnificent tempoi-ary pa-
lace,* were two superb conduits flcwijig with various colored and
tfl^tly wines, apparently bursting from !|ie throats of lions. Here,
all comers were permitted to indulge without restrain^ The tuo
Kings, with seven knights of each uation, underniik, in the
tournament, to encounter all challengers; and the jl^^s, which
continued for five days, were reported to have been \he most
splendid of the age. These and various other particulars, that
occurred during this singular festival, arc reprcseiiied in rbc
painting, which not only presents us with a prospect of the scene

* TMt wai a ipacioui cjiuilnngulartiuildln);, made of timber bmnghl mdv
framed from Englind, and pul tugethei under tlic inipution of .Sir Edward
BeUinap, by ihrcc ihouiand artificcrt, who wetc tcnl fiom Englaad far ihK
purpose, and hiA hien previouily employed for wveral monihi in conilruclinj

ebfckeicd with si

'UctioilT' but stsO, if the expression may be permitted, with a
mjilfd'i rye riVie of the actions themselves. A verj' curious nnec-
■Xhteis connected with the history of thi* picture. After the cxe-
lotion of Charles the Fir^t, the Parliament appointed commis-
I'tfoners to di^ipoxe of his etTects, and an agent from France begati z
reaty with them for this painting. Philip, l^arl of Pembroke,
V^Vn emiaeiit admirer of the arts, who considered the picture as s
PnJoable appendage to an English palace, resolved, if possible, to
I prevent the bargain being concluded, and went privately to llic
I t«yal apartments, cut out the head of King Henry from the
, placed it in his pocket-book, aud retired unnoticed. The
L agent finding the picture so mttterielly mutihilcd, declined to
1, iniTchase; and it remained in its station lill Cromwell, having ob-
rteincd the supreme command, prevented any further disposal of

e collection. On the Restoration, the then Earl of Pembroka^-
Pdeliveredthcdisscveredfragmcnt to Charles the Second, who order-
d it to be reinserted in its place. By looking sideways at tho pic-
fa tore in a proper light, the reparation becomes visible* The
I above paintings arc five feet six indies in beighth, and eleven
I feet three inches in width.

The principal puriniits in this gallery arc those of Sir John

' Lawson, Sir Christopher Minnes, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir

Thomas Allen, Sir William Penn, Sir Gcor^ Aseough, Sir

Thomas Tiildisman, Ann, Duchess of York, Prince Ilupert,t

Sir Jeremiah Smith, Sir Joseph Jordan, Sir William Berkeley,

General Monk, and Sir Joseph Harman; all by Sir Peter Leiy ;

I Knanuel Philcbert, Duke of Savoy, by Sir Antonio Morej

i bid Henry the Eighth, by Holbein,

In The Kisg's Closet is a St. Catherine, by Domenichino,
r ^is picture, and a Magdalen, by Carlo Duici, now in the

Dressing-

■ Thi luthoilttu cgniulud For the docripLivc ikdchci of ihcK paiuingi
re, Henry'i Hniory of FngUnd, ihe Archiologii, and Topliam'i DcKrip-

. t The lit of Mmmimo ingiaving .. .,
1 1^ cMi Piiau, who conceivcil ihc jdn.

bccQ invented ind prictiied
:ing the carrotivs effect of
th( burd of ) gun. Ses Wilpolt'j Ciulogiic of Engiivin.

icre rescued in [he year 1785, by Mr. WmI,
mber, where it is suppgsed iliey IirJ remHiocil
! of Kii^ WiUiam. When liial gcntlemao dis-
original siae had been aitered, and the figures

222

Dresiiing-Room, <

from among I he li

ever since the tim

covered ihat iheii

converted from half into whole lengths, thej- were reduced to

their primary shapes, and placed in the stations ibcy now occupy

at the command of his Majesty. The three fullowiug pieces uc

by Breughel.

A Landsc^ie with boats, &c.

1'bc Garden of Eden. In this beautiful picture ibe artist htw
deLineatcd most of the animal creation. Adun and Eve are re-
presented in the distance; whilst the noble hoisc is made the hero
of tbc piece. Lions, tvgers, monkies, swans, and many other
kinds of the quadruped and feathered tribes fill up the piece:. Tht

s from Milton's Paiadise Lost, book iv. line 340,

About Ihtm fiiiti
AllboKiof Ih'nnh, lince w
In wood or wilderotB, forat c
Sporting the lion nmp'd, uid i
Dindted the kid; bean, lygeri,
Gimbol'd hchn [hem ; the urn
To make ihrm mirth, ui'd ill I
Hi) lilhc pioboicii.

ieldly ricphmi,
ii might, and wrl

A Landscape, with a number of jigures represcntii^ a Dutdi
Wake, with the painter's name, and dated ItiOO.

II-ENItiETTA Makia, Charles the First's Qu«n: Vattdyck :
& half length. This est|uisite portrait is allowed to be the best
J'cnmU head that Vandyck ever puintcd: the drapery and tint*
were never excelled by the pencil.

The King's Dkessinu-Roum is embellished with »evenl

Dutch ~

pieces deserving of observation. The folloi
A Man's Head: Lionardo da Vinci.

- Two beautiful Landscapes with figures ; Woi
■^ HoLSTOFT, a Dutch Merchant : Holbein.
CiiARLtsTiiE Second;* Uusscl.

■ • Tht bat drawn and moit corfKf portrait of Ihii
'onihc ceiling of the King's Pnaiciicc Chambct, by Sir

e the best.

fiCRKitlllRZ.

Catiiarin£ of Bkagamza, Cliarla the Second's Queen :
filr Peter Lely.

_ As Old Lady with a cowl over her head, said to be the
portrait of the Cuuntess of Dcamund, ascribed to RembraniltT
.but we believe erroneuusly. On the bach uf the picture is tikis
ioacripcion in an old hand-writing: " The rautlicr of Rcmbrundt,

i^ven by Sir Robert Curr." There Is, howevei', no resemblance
betu'cen this painting and the Mezxotinto print of the maternal
^rent of the above arti&l.

\ The carving of the King's Pi;slic DiviKa-RoOM, which
represents a variety of fruit, lish, fowl, St^-. was execuled by
Gibbons, whose performances in this branch of art were never
exceeded.

A Family singing by Candle-light : Honthorst.
A large picture of Nymphs and Satyrs, with dead game,
-Rabena and Snyder». These artists often united their skill in

'Mie piece. The lirst excelled in the beauty and delicate carnation
.tints of his flesh, which frequently induced him to choose naked
figures for the subjects of his paintings. The latter was pre-emi'

jMDt in the representation of cattle, und domestic animals. This

ifa a charming specimen of Rubens' style of coloring; though the
drawing of the figures, as well as the grossncss of the subject,
UK consideralple drawbacks on the merits of the piece.

Wild Boar Hunting: Snyder*.
, The Kino's Audience Ciiambf.h is fitted up and furnished

(Id the tnost elegant manner. The throne and its appendages are

Constructed with much taste. The canopy and ornamonlal parte
rought tinder the direction of Mrs. Pawsey, from beautiful

*paintings by Miss Moscr; the chair of stare was made by Mr.
Campbell ; and the drasving^, which ornament the rich gold co-
lumns, were executed Ly Rebecca, under the direction of Mr.
AVcst ; who painted the medallion with profiles of their Majesties.
But the most valuable decorations of this apartment are the seven
historical paintings, illustrative of the principal events which dis-
linguislied the reign of Edward the Third. These interesting
pictures were executed at the request of his Majesty, on whose

2'M iiEiimaiiiE.

tiuti* and palronnge idey reflect peculiar lustre. The IwnHc
achieve men Is llicy ore inlended to commemorate, so expressive of
the unconquerable force of EngUiih bravery, and the minute atten-
tion lo historic truth dispinyed in their composition, bo useful
to the future enquirer into the tmnsactions of remote ages, ue
sufficient reasons for the insertion of an outline of the subjects
represented. The whole ot these paintings are by Mu. West,
who executed them in the years 1787, 1783, end 1789.

The Pass AG £ OF THE River Sou ME, 'August the Q5tli, 1346.
Edward the 'fhird having landed with a considerable bodjr of

troofM

" The« compotitioni are pecullirly inierestinj lo tbt miny illuuiioul bmU

mtmorile. Mr. Wcji dillgenlly inveitigiled the hijiory of cw:h event, lod hii
intioduci^d portniti of u miny diilingulilMd chincUn u the nibjcca ud
ipacei uould ■dmil. Thue arc dctignitcd by their roptclivc uiBarial diMsc-
lioiu. TIk nunci of mIict penoni pieicni in the icuotu, but not rcpTEMMcd in
tlK picturu, may be lanil fiom their binnen ucn in diitant groupi, wbich the
■Ttiil hujudiciouily portrayed witli ihilinleni. The liit of pcnoni conttiiwd
in ibe eiuuing noici, widi the henldic iniignii by which ihey are made known,
jeivine ai an index or key lo each painting, win communicalRl by Mr. Woi,
■who p«<enled Hia Majiny with the original, and kindly favoitd ui with a
correct copy for lOKnion in the pietcnt Work.

The P.*saAGE of the River SomKe.

RiNn EowAiD Illtcrcit, a lion, &c. Lo.d Chandoi: Creat, a San-
ccn'i hud in profile propel, banded lable. Eaui. or AkUNOIL: crest, a grif<
(in'ihead Or, in a ducal coronet Culci. EAit-orW.^awicx; ckn, iiwmi'i
head Argentina ducal coronet Gulei. Loaa CoBiiiv HakcoUst: Cim.a
peacock-anil in i ducal loronn proper. Sia Huoh CouaiiNAY: eie«, t
pyramid of iwan'.feati«:r. in a ducal coronet proper. Ea.l of S-M.nau.Y!
crcit, a griilin KJant Or, on a ducal coronei Gul«. Twi P«ikci e.»
Waliii the royal crest of Lngland. Lokq Rooii crcit, a peacock in hi>
prlili, proper, itanding on a chapeau.

BAKHEai. Sr, Ceorgr: Ar^t a crou Gulei. Til SUnJard Rtyal: the
amit of France ancient and England quarterly. Earl if tVaraikk: Gulc4 i ieaa
between aiK cnxa croiileti. Or. Lari GsJJrcy llarnurl: Culei two ban Or.
fjid of Saliiiujy : quarterly, fiitt and lourth Argent, three fuiiu in (cu Gules
for Montacutc, Kcond and third Gulei ; three lega in armuur ptapet, cunjoiiied
•1 the top of ibc tbighs, tod flixed in triingle for the tale o[ Man.

lERKSIflKE. S33

troops at U Hogue in France, advDiiced along the Seine nearly
to the gates of Paris, hefore Philip, the Freucb King, could as-
semble an army sullicjent to oppose him ; hut when this via3
effecied, he caused all the bridges to be destroyed, and atlcmpted
to inclose Edward in the heart of the country. The latter pene-
trated the design, and by a stratagem passed the Seine, but
found his progress into Flanders checked by the Somme. He then
assembled his prisoners, and offered large rewards to any one who
would point out a ford by which he might pass the river. A pea-
sant, named Gobin Agace, was base enough to betray the inte-
rests of his country, and discovered a shallow place, where at
low water the array might cross in safety.

The opposite banks were defended by 1 3,000 men, whom
Philip had ordered to interrupt tlic retreat of Edward; but tha
latter, ui^d by necessity, resolved to attempt the passage. This
is the point of lime exhibited in the picture. The King is made
the principal figure, and represented on a spirited charger. He
appears animating tlie courage of bis soldiers, by plunging into llic
stream, sword in hand, and inviting them to follow his example.
" Let those that love me, follow," were the words of the brave
Sovereign; and they were not spoken in vain. The enemy were
defeated ; but so narrow was the escape of Edward, that some
of the troops of his rear guard were slain by Philip's arniy, whose
further pursuit was only retarded by the rising of the tide.

The Interview between the KiNcand his victorious son tha
Black Prisce, after the battle of Cbessv*. August the 26th,
1346,. llie gwssage of the .Somme was the immediate precursor
of the battle of Cressy. Philip still continued to follow the £ii-

VoL, 1. Q glisb

FHi Third, haViud in b lur-

r and EngUnd. On ihe Kiag't

of black armour, from which

Bebind (hem: Sia Iohm

• In ihe centre of ihit picture it Edwa»d

coal, whereon h emhroidered the an™ of /'4i

Itfi-huul ii the Fa INC I or Walis, in hii iu

he wai cutiomarily uiled, The Black Prinu

BtAucMAUP, beiriDg the royal lUndard ; his cral upon hii helmet being a

■wui'i liead Argent, in i ducal coronet Gulei. John Lord CxANnos : cietl,
ad in profile pcoper, baniled about hii tcmplii Sable. Johm
LioiD : Clint, a bgar Acme, uaiidingupon achapeau. Ricbaub

WW ^

glish at Ihe head of his vast army, and baring crossei the trver
8t the bridge of Abbervillc, advanced with great rapidity. £d-

Wftrf,

Eari. or Akuhdil: crot, a piflin'i li»d Or, in a ducal cototm Gula,
William Eakl op Nokthahptds : Armi on hit ihield, Acurc, on i ban]
couiicd bnwrcn tiK lioni nmpml Or, tiiree mullEti Sible. Loud CoDriir
Hakcoukt: armt on hii thjcid, Or, (wo bin GuIb ; ctat upon hii
helmet, a peacock 'i tiil proper, in a djcal coronti Or, Reginald Lom.
CoaHAd : ereit, a black moo I'l head coupid in profile proper, banded Ar-
gtni. R»ifH LoiD Staifoud: crol, a twan'i bad and wing* Aigenl, in
*dufi1 coronet per pile Guln and Sable. John Loao Willouchii : crM,
■ Mooi'i hoad Sable, ducal I y crowned Or. Sia Fulk F(t;wa>ine: crew.
a dragon couchani Oi. Sik Hihit Eak : crcii, a deml llan Gulei. Huh-
rniT Bail or HamroUD, with the royal creil. Sii Ltwii TorTOH:
crwt, a Ki Uon KJanl Argent.

BAHHiaa. RkluTi Lard Talhl: Gulet a lioa ncnpint within a border en.
grailcdOr. 5i> WillUmClMm: Argeni lix crou ciouleu litche Sable on *
chief Aiute, two mulleta Argent, piefcad Gulei. John lord Darty : Aiutc leme
of ccotscrouleti, tbn« cinquefoili Argent. Jihtt Lmi Lt Wifr: GuleiKmeof
croB crojilels filchi, a lion rampant Argent. Hugh Lard Lt Spnctn qnaneily.
Argent and Gulei, a bend Sable bctwceD two freii Or. 6ir Rciiri Kcvila
Gulo a lalliic Atgeni. JMr Urd MohMi! Or a crou oigreited Sable. Tht
Banner of St. Curgi and the Jtiyal Sttniard,

Sik TnOHAi Holland: on his helmet a -white hart lodgtd under i tree
proper, being the badge of hii wife Joan of Keoti and on Ml ihidd and

dantArgcni. Robert Lokd Febbaii of Charxley: crest on hit helaet,
a pcacock'i (ail in a ducal coronet proper.^On the King'i right-hand ia
Lauiihci Lokd HAiTiNRt: on his itiicoat Or, i maunch Culei, Sik
Nil£ Loiinc hears the sword of state; and hii arm» on hit lurcoat in
quarterly. Argent and Gules, a bend cngnilcd Sable. Johh Loao Mow-
aRAi : on hii luicoal Gules, a lion rampant Argent. Rogeh Load Mot-
TiHtB : etot, a pyramid of feathers Arurc in a ducal coronet Or. Thduas
LoBD CLirroio: cheeky Or and Aiure, a feu Gulei. Thomas Loait
WiiT : crest, a giillin'i head Azure in a duo] coronet Or. Hihiy Lobd
Piacv: creil, a lion Amre standing on a chapeau. Williak Lord Root:
•eepage»s4. RosxiT Loan BoucHie.: crest, a Sancen's head couped in
profile proper, with a cap Colct, Babtholokcw Loan BuBCKHttu:
cml, a dcmi lion double tailed Or in a muiil crown Gul«. MAt;iict
LoKD Bekkiliy: crest ft aliln Cute*, thereon a chevron between ten croatx
pUie Algal.

B£RKSHine. 327

I, who saw tbe danger of precipitating his march over tlie
plains of Picardy, delErmined to await the attack of the French
Monarch, and drew up his army in three lines, near the village
of Creasy. Here the steady valor of his men, and his own pru-
dent conduct, obtained the most memorable battle that was ever
Q 2 won;

BAHHiKt. Thmai Leri Wcit: Argmti (Im dmcccir Sablf. Kalpk Ltrri
Stsul of S»fCM i Or three pila'Gula, indacinton varry Or and Gulei. Sir
Pilrr CranHim : paly of lix Argent and Aiure on a bend Gulej, ibiee eaglet*
displayed Or. Robirl Lard Morlty: Argoit » lion rampmt Sable, duciUy
crowned Or. Jaan turrf Andliy: Gulcj frrtir Or. Wiiliai, Eail e/ Sdulmry,
»ee page 11114, Jnho IW tij/t.- Or a (ea between two chevroni Sabk. Join Leri
Ifarrni; Cheeky O B on-lionrunpuit. Hary laril Scna/i ol Mas him : Aiure
• bend Or, and a label of three pointi Argent. Thmai Lsri Daganrih: Ermine
■ cbevron Gulu. Pcttr herd Ma^lry: On bend Sable. Jokn Lari Stgrain!
Sable ■ lion tampini Argent, ducally drowned Or. Jekn Lord Engamc: Gules
a feu danccite beiween tix crois crosiltfU Or.— In the diitancc, over the head of
John LoiQ Clifeobd, are the Banniiii of £t> T^onsi fim/firm.- Argent >
bend loiengy Gulei. fViUiain Lord Ke'dtilon: Culei a croii Argent, Jckn
Lard Maugimrry: Aiure a lion rampmt, and a border Or.— In the diilance,
by the bead of The Kikc, am lhe« B<vhneii : NkkoUi Lard CnUhpt:
Azure three leopard) facet, jcuant Qeun de lyi Or. Sir Hugk Cmrtnay: Or
three torteaux and a libel of three poinli Azure, on each point three amulcu Or.
Jehi Lard Grey oF Codnor : barry of lix Argent, and Azure on a bend Quia,
three martleU Or. iir C«y Bryan : Or three pilct Aiure. Tiamji Lerd Fvrnnel:
Argent a bend between tix marttett Guld, Sir Jtatcl Damory : bairy wavy of
lix Argent and Gulei. Roger Lard Siraage of Knockin : Ciilei two lioni
piumt in pale Argent. Laurrnit Earl cf Fimiraie.- Oi a maunch Gulc^
Willum Lard Creysicck: barry of lix Argent and Azjre, three chapleu GuIck
Cttfrfi-erdSay: quarterly, Or and Gulei, H\/liam Lard BoI'cbhi: Or ihre*
toadi erect Sable. AJum Lord Lvennghaa : Gulei a lion rampant Vair. Roger
lard Hiusiy! Or a crou Vert, Ctrard Borden: Aiute two bars Or, on each
bar three nunleti Gulei. J^ Lard Lacil: barry nebuly of lix Or and Gulej.
Rata t Lard Uihlred: Cula on tcrou moline Or, five mullets ot the field. Sir
Rithwd Coldstortnigh : Aiuie a crou paionce Argent, Sir William Sanaerlm:
Argent a emu paue and tlaiitte Sable, — In the fore-ground, at the feet of ThS
KiMOandPniNci, lielheieTiiofmit; the /Iifij o/Bij*tW,i'jcreu, the plume
of feathers in a coronet ; the lurcoat of bii ion Charles, King cj lie Rcaians:
and the banner of the A'rir^fl/'MirjrirM, On the ground, behind Tiia KiKc, the
banner of the CaanI D'Alin^an, being the amu of France within a boidure Gulci
charged with eight bctanti. The thidd of Daria a/ Gnat, pec fott Or aod Aa-
gaa, ta ciBte displayed Culo,

its BESXaKISE.

won ; and though the numbers of the French were in a fuur-fold
praporiion 1o his own, he pcrinittcil that division of his troops
whicli his son commanili-d to achieve the victory. The gallaatry
of the Prince, then but fifteen years of age, was fiiliy equal to
the arduous conHict; and when the darkness nf the night termi-
nated the pursuit, the King flew into his arms, and exchiimed,
" i\ly brave son! persevere in your honomblc cause; you are
my fion; for valiantly Lave you aeqnilted yourself to-day; you
have shown yourself worthy of empire," The prince, grateful
for the caresses of his parent, dropt ij|ion hi-^ knees, and a»ked
hit bleuiag. Thb picture is fourteen feet ten inches, by nine
fcet four inches.

The Battle op Neville's Cross,* October the 17th,
1346. During the lime that Edward was employed ou the con-

• In the centre of the picture ii thi Qutln mounttd on iwhilchorici
her irmi embroidered upon her robei, &c. Lokd Piicy ii on ihe Queen'i
rigbt-bind; hit c rut upon hi] helmet, hii arms upon hit shield Or, a lion
mnpuil Azure. Behind them aicHATriiLD, Bmi<of of Duxhau, witli
the aimt of hii lee impaled with those oF hi> family-, Ermine on a chevron
■ Sable, three cinquetoils Argent. Sm CtorriY Cherhili: hii arnu
Azure, a crow engrailed Or. Sir RoaiaT Nevilli: armi Culei, a altir*
Argent ZotfCH, Akchbishof or Yoik; arm) of hit aichbitbopcic im-
plied with hii own, viz. Culei, ten baanu, and a canton Ennlae. Loan
MawiKAv: armi Gulei, a lion rampant Argent. Beck, Uimor of Lim-
Colh: the armi of hti bithopiic impaling hit own, Cul« a crou moline
Argent, Loan Rooi : hiiarmi Gules, three waler-tmiii^cTi Argent. Strat.
roan, AaCKiiiHor or Cahteilbury: the anm uf the archbithnpric
impaled with thoK of his family, which are barry of ten Argeni and Aaurc,
a lion nrapant Culei. ducally crowned Or.

InthedijUncearetbeBAKHem of ihe Ai"j </Sfo//«rf.- Or a lion rampant,
within a double treiiure flory, coumcrflory Gules. The farl of Dfiglas : Ar.
(ent a human bean, imperially crowned ptopei, on a thief Azure, three mulleu
Argent. SI. A^dnur: Aturt a laliirc Argent. Tki Larl of Marr: Ature a liend
. between lia crosi ciouleU fiichc Or. Thi Earl a/ M%rraj: Azure three mul-
let! Argent, within a double ireisure Holy counteHlory of the second. Lfi
Kiiih, mirshal of F.ngland, Argent on ■ chief Guta Sable. Ltrd Jttmitj,"
itandard-bcjr<:r In the )C>n<> of Scotland : Argent an eagle diiplayed Sable.

The principal Leaders of the Scots. Titi Eakl or Suthirlahd: ereit on
his helmet, a tabby cat sejant erect. Loan Raiiiay: hi) creit on hia bdmel,
a unicorn's head. LoioKfith: his crest a itag'i head.

nERKSIlIRE, 299

tinent in be»i«^ng Calais, David Bruce, King of Scotland, inva-
ded his lerritories at the head of more than 50,000 men, who burnt
and plundered almost every town and village in the progress of
their march, massacred the iuhnbitanis, and extended their rava-
ges even to ibe gates of Durham. PhUlippa, Edward's heroic Queen,
Knimated by her husband'^ glory and hi'r country's interests, has'
tily assembled an army of |6,000 brave yet undisciplined soldiers,
and ventured to Bpproaeh thtScotchKing at Neville'sCrosa, near
that city, when riding on a white courser through the ranks of
(he army, she exhorted ihem to use their utmost exertions to
revenge tlie cruelties committed by the barbarous enemy. Thii
gallant spirit she displayed had the desired effect; and, af^er a
hard fought battle, the English obtained tlie victory. Near
20,000 of the Scots were left dead upon rhe field; and David
himself, with several earls, and many other noblemen, were made
prisoners. In the painting, PhiUippa, mounted on her chai^er,
and surrounded with knights, is invigorating the courage of her
associates with that conii^mpt of superior numbers by which she
herself appears to liiive bci'n inspired.

TllESuKRENDEROFCALAia," AugHst the 4th, 1347- Wlh-

in a few days afu-r the Battle of Cressy, Edward the Third com*

Q 3 menccd

BAHHiiiuf the Engliih in ihe diiUnce. Loid Piiriy Or ■ lion rampant
Aiure. Laid Lucy of Coclwrmooih : Culcs ihrce lutiei hiuriant Argtnt.
Omplinmlie Ea'I if A'gui : Gu1«i cinijuefoil wiihin »n orit of crou cnmleU
Or. Klht), Sheriff of Yorkihire : A tgml i chcvion S^ble between Ihtet rocki
pnper. Inthefoie pan of ihe piclure, on Ihe left-hind, i» Ihe Banmir of
Baliol, via. Oianurle CitUi. Sfroopal Muhain; Azure a bold Or, and
a label of [hrtc pointi Aigent.

Inihcforc-giouml Lord Hny llei dead ; hit armi AigcDl, ihieccKOtclieoiU

' SuRllENDEH (

ais.

Over the BurgeUM' heidi arc the Reyal Sum^rJ, Sir H'tllir Mnwfi bannct of
hi« Itmii Or three chevroneU Sablp. Lttd Maiiil'i banner-. Or tbrc* pilei
Gules, and a onion Ermine.

Behind THE K(K.^, arethePRiKciop WAia., Ea.l or WAKWict.
Lord Statioid. Their emu on their bclitieu al before,

830 BERKSHIRE.

mepced tho siege of Calais, which was defended for eleven
months ivilh uncommon vigilance and bravery. The King expe-
rienced tiic moriiricatiun of seeing niuny thousands of his troops
expire of ihe various disorders generated by the humidity of tbe
soil, and the numerous privations the besieging army were com-
pelled lo sustain. These losses incensed him almost to madnen;
and when at length the necessities of the townsmen, whom fatnioB
had reduced to the borders of the grave, induced liie governor to
offer proposals of surrender, be refused to listen to any temiSt
but such a) permitted him to execute summary vengeance on
the brave men who had been the exciters of the determined
resistance he had met with. At this juncture Sir Walter Manny,
and many English lords who were then in the camp, represented
the danger of reprisals, and besought biin to avoid so much na-
neccssary bloodshed. Their urgent intreatJes induced the King to
mitigate the severity of his demand; but ho insisted that the live*
of six principal citizens of Calais should be at his disposal; fti>d
that they should be sent to him barefooted and bareheaded, with
the keys of the city in their hands, and ropes about their necks.
This ignominious condition appeared to the inhabitants more
dreatJful than even the general punishment with which they had
been t!]reatened, and but for the genuine patriotism of Eustace
de St. Pierre, had probably been rejected. This generous
man cheerfully devoted liimself to death to save his countrymen,
" Another, animated by his example, made the Ute ofler: &
third, and a fourth, presented tliemselves to the same late; and
the whole number was soon completed. These six heroic bur-
gesses appeared before Edward in tlie guise of malefactors, laid
at hjs feet the keys of the city, and were ordered to be led to
execution." The King's laurels, which had been nourished by
victory in the bosom' of danger, began <o wither. His nobles
petitioned him to bestow mercy on Ihe brave characters who had
thus made a voluntary tender of their own lives lo save their
friends and companions, yet he remained inexorable: even the
tolicitations of his most favored kon, the Black Prince, were
offered in vain; and Edward ordered the execution to proceed.

The

axSKSHIRZ. 231

Tie moment appeared decisive of his fame; but liis good anfpjl,
in the person of Queen Phillippa, preserved him from the infamy
of such an inglorious tramaction. She threw herself upon her
knees, (the action represented in the picture,) and, with tears
streaniini; down her cheeks, implored him, in the name of the
Saviour, and of love, to spare the lives of the intrepid burgesses.
The King's heart was softened ; and resigning his prisoners to the
Queen, he permitted her to dispose of them as she thought
proper. Phillippa immediately carried them to her tent, gave them
some refreshment, and afterwards dismissed then) with a smalt

The Crownisg of Lorb Louis db Ribemoht, by Kiwo
Edwahd the Third, for his Valok,' January the 1st, 1349.
During the first years of the (rucc which Edward had concluded
with France through the mediation of the Pope's legates, he en>
trusted the government of Calais to an Italian, immed Aymerlc
de Pavia, who, tempted by the offer of 20,000 crowns, consented
to deliver the castle to Geoffrey de Charny, commander of the
French forces in that neighbourhood. This traitorous design be-
ing privately communicated to the English King, he resolved that
the meditated pcrtidy should burst on the heads of Its contrivers.
Sending, therefore, for De Pavia, he reproached him with his
guilt ; yet promised to pardon hii concerted treachery, if he
would allure the enemy to their destruction, The Italian, alike
destitute of honor and integrity, agreed to the proposal; and
8 day being appointed for the admission of the French, Edward
secretly prepared about 1000 men, with whom the Prince of
Vfales and himself went to Calais, and landed without suspicion,
Ilaving entered the city, he ordered the garrison under arms,
«ud making a proper disposition of his forces, awaited the ar-
rival of the enemy. About midnighit a chosen bajfd of French
Q 4 toldien

* In iheccntre tui Kinu, diitinguiihed hy the rayil beiTingi upoo hii
annout. On ihe Kikg'i right-hand, S:i Waltc* Mahhv, with bu (*•

atily armi upau his alnutur.

33S BZRKSIItRT;.

soldiers were admitted at the [loslern ; and De Pavia, receiviiig

the stipulated sum, led them to the place where Edward lay in
ambusb, under pretence of their aid being neces'sary to opeii the
great gate. The English springing from their concealment, sur-
rounded the deceived troups, and with very Utile opposition,
made them prisoners. Meanwhile, De Charny, at the head of
the main army, had approached the castle, and was impatiently
waiting for tlie opening of the gate. At length the wished event
arrived. The doors were unbarred, and Edward rushed upon bis
foes with cries of battle and victory. A fierce engagement imme-
diately began; for the French, though surprised, were not itKimi-
dated. As the morning dawned, the King, who fought as a,
private man under the banner of Sir Waller Manny, found him-
self engag(;J with a hardy soldier, named Eustace de Kibctnont.
Twice did the prowess of the Fieiichraan make the gull an I Ed-
ward bow to the earth ; twice did he recover and renew the fight.
Being separated by a press of combatants, they dealt destruction
on the feeble of either host ; but the chance of war once more
bringing them together, Edward, after a fierce contest, over-
powered his antagonist, and Ribemout yielded himself prisoner.
Nearly at the same time the whole of his countrymen wera
beaten, and most of their leaders bereaved of liberty or life. On
the ensuing night, Edward gave a magnificent entertainment
to his prisoners, treated them with much courtesy, and informed
them with whom they had the honor to be engaged. On Eustace
((e Itibemont* he bestowed the highest encomiums ; acknowledged
that no combat which he had fought, had been attended with so
much danger to his person ; then taking a chaplet of pearls fron)
his brow, he presented them to his brave enemy, and at the same
instant invested him with the honor of knighthood, and granted
htm his freedom. In the painting, the King is delineated in th^
act of rewarding his vanquished opponent.

Tub

' • Thii biive dtfendcf of the Ubtn\a of France wu iljlo U ihc Baltic of

The Institutioh of the Most Noble OttDsn of the
Gart£R,* April the 23d, 13+9- The scene of this interesting

picture

• Irlhecenlre of the plciure, the Quii.n; her robe embroidErcd with the
inni of Fnocf incieal ind Engliod quarterly; likewise theuc of Hainault and
Flindeii quiTleily, Lady Mowbkav; ber ittni CuI«, i lion rampini Ar>
(cac Ladv MoBTiKEii, with her armi on her manile. Thi Couhtei*
or Ulitii: on hcf mandc Or, a ctou Cula. The Pui.scii RotAL,
having the armt of France and £ng1and quarterly upon her niinilc. Jdah of
KiNT ; with her badge upon her left shoulder, a white harl eouchant, ducatly
collared and chained Or, under i tree proper. The DucHtii op NoiroLx:
bcr irnu, England with a label of three puinu ArgenL In (he irehet over
the bead of the Queni, Chhilii of Bloii: hit coronet on hii held. In
the next arch, Lionil Dukc of Ci.aecnce. Johh or Galnt, Wiiliam
Of WooDiTocKi younger Soni of King Edward the Third, with their
proper dilferencei. The Queen of Scotland: her armi on her mantle.
Tui Davchtek of thi CouktxiS oi Ulito: her anni on her miiitle.
On croEi Gulei. In the canopy over the alnr, David, Kinc of Scot-
laud: hit armi Or, a lion timpani, with a double treuure flory, counter
fiory Gulc). The AnCHsiiHor of St. Ahuriw'i. In the right-hand
comer, the arm) ol RvtTinicrinllc: Gala, an euutcheon within an otie o[
cinqucfoili Argent.

TaorHiEi on the Pillan. Upon thai next to the King of Scotland, 1> clie
ahidd of the Larl of Flaifkrs : Argent a lion rampant, double tailed, and rowed
ftable. Theihicidof \!Bie. Dukt sf Leriant: Or on a bend Ciile., three ea;la
diiplayed Or. ThcCainttf ^Miim: armi Aiture a bend Argent. Tlie lumoat
of Clii'Us fiiKg tj the Remam: the arms oi Bohemia and the Romin eagle
quiiterly. The ihicid of the Eai/o/ £w: batry of tell Argent, and Aiure a
label of five polnti Cules. On the middle pillar, the shield of Dmglai:
Argcul a human heart Culet, imperially crowned Or. The banners of Smllani
and SI. Aodiew, The thicld of ihrray: Atute three mulleu Argent, within •
double iTEuure, Dory counter flory Or. The c rest of lerj Keiri; aiUg'ihtad
erecl. The shield of the Khg of Majana; Or lour palleu Gulcj, and a
bend Azure over all. On the left-liand pilUr, the banner of fnTiit. The bjn,
ner of Coal CrimalU of Italy; Loiengy Argent and CuIm. The banner of
limKiiig tf Bolumia: Gules a lion rampant, double tailed Argent, crowned Or.
ThcCiHi>(I>''f/e<ii'rin-i banner; France Ancient, within a border Gnlei be^nnle.
A helmet with thecrest of C'imMi: a ileur de lyi between two (prigs of Uuiet
proper. In the front of this gioup tbeihield uf Deria of Genoa, per feu Or
and Argent, an eagle displayed Gulci. Along the top of the picture are ilie
ami and crcili of the hru foiuideri of the Mu« Moble Order. Upon il.e ilH
pn of the spandrels of the arches are th; arnib of St. £iiu'abd and St,
pioie-x altemMely.

f94 BEBKBHIKE.

picture is St. George's Chapel, in which a great rnimbw of die
eminent personages who were present dtiring ih? instailatioo are
rcprwenteii. The Bishops of Winchester and Salisbury are per-
forming the ceremony of high maiis, and the Sovereign, Queen,
Slid Knights, kneeling round the aJtar. The Kiog's children ap-
pear in the gallery, in a different part of which is the captive King
of Scotland, the fiishop of St. Andrew's, and several French
prisoners of noljlc birih, whom Edward had permitted to witness
the magnificence of tLe institution. On the left of ihc fore-
ground are two of the alms or poor knights kneeling; and behind
them the ambassadors from Gascony and Normandy, arrayed in
their oflicial habils. The assemblage of beautiful ladies are also
introduced, who are reported to have attended the Queen, and
graced the solemnity by the brilliance of their charms, * The de-
corations are composed of the arms of the knights of the order,
and the trophies which the King had won by his numerous vic-

The original sketch of this picture is in the possession of Wil-
liam Dcckford, Esq. of Fonthill, to whom we are inijebted for
the following remarks on its composition and general merit.
" Above 100 figures are grouped together, with such effect,
and painted with so much spirit, as to raise this beautiful per-
formance almost to a level with the happiest effusions of the pen-
cils of Rubens and Vandyck. The coloring, for iichness and
transparency, equals the best works of the Flemish school. To
the utmost power of execution, it joins the historical interest of
the subject, and the curiosity of displaying portraits of Edward
the Third, the Black Prince, Queun Phillippa, all the Royal
Children, the Fair Maid of Kent, and the beautiful Countess of
Kildare; with the King of Scots, and John of Blois, then prisoners
in the castle."

Thi

» Tiit f'uMK, the Bittle of Polticn, and tbe Interview bavcta
*ad hu Sod, ut ill of ibc lune liic

RF.RKSIIIRE.

The Battle of Poitiers," September the 19th, 1356.

Edward tlie Black Prince, wilh an army scarcely amounting to
12,000 men, ventured to penetrate into the heart of France; but,
after ravaging Languedoc, and several of tbe finest provinces,
found his retreat to Bourdeaux opposed by Jolin, the French
King, at the head of upwards of 60,(X)0 soldiers. In this dilemma
be prepared for battle with all the courage of a hero, and the
prudence of an experienced commander; yet, willing to save his

gallant

■ Tbc principal figure ii ihe PuiNCt Or Walei : upon hit bdmet i plum*
oE Ditricii Salhert ia 1 corauct, which wu wom by Ihc Kinj; of Bohemia ia
Ibe billk of Cruty. John Lord Chakdoi ; hii creu on hii bclmeX, which
ii a Sancoi'i head pruprr, in profile bended Sable 1 hit thidd Aiure; on it the
Virgin Mary Or, encompiiaed with the nyi of the lun Argeiil. Wiiliih
EAULor Salisburv, >« pagr ie4. John Loid Willouohbv of Erdby:
kiicnna blick't head, due ally crowned proper. Sii Nil* Lobinc: crot,
• plujne of feathers Argent. Raiph Lo«0 B*uit of Drayton; ciot, t
han't held S)bl<t| iu a ducil coronet Or. John Lou o Mo huh : ctcii, an arm
labiled inimaunchErmine, hand proper, holding) fleur dc lyi Or. Giliiit
Lord Talbot: cnu, a lion Oi, itanding an > chapeau Gulei lined Ermine.
PciHCi Fhilit, fourth uin of the King of France: hii crut, a fleur de lyi.
John Kmc □> Fkakce : in a turcoal, adorned wilh ihc royaUrmiof France-
Sin Walteh Paveley : crest, ahotie'ihud truncated Argent. Ricinalb
LocnCoaiiAu,»epageta6. StBBAKTHOi.ouiwBuiCHEK]H, Kepag«iR&
Sii Rocaa ni la Wakii: crest, a griffin'i head A/ure, in a ducal coronet.
Hauiici Lokd BiBKELtv: crcit, a initie Gulei, charged with ■
chevroobetweai lea croteei paite Argent. Sir Fexnk Van Hall : crcil, *
wyvem ducally gorg'd and chained, holding a twurd proper, Handing oa t
cattle Argent. John Earl or Oxroio, lec pag* iij Tuouai Earl of
Wa»wicr, m page a..,. Sir Tho«a. Filton : croi. a pair of w.ng.
extended Culet, in a ducal coronet Or. Sir Rotcar Knowlei: crest, ■
nm's bead Argent, in 1 ducal coronet Culei. Sia Sanchet Daubhich*
COURT ; crest in a ducal coronet Or, a double plume of feilheri Argent, bound
together wilh two broad bsiidagei, loitngy Or and Gulci. The Caftal
ni BUCHE : cietl, the head of Midas Sabk, and on hit shield hi^ armi, Or on
■ crouSalih:, five esciilnp thdls Or. Sir John Pelhah: crest, a peacock
inhii pride Argent, on a chapeau GuIci lined Ermine. Ralph Earl at
Stafford, tee page fti. Fcier Lord Mo|iL£ir : on hii ihouldei Or *
^nd Sable.

236 BtSKSHIKE.

gallant comrades from almost certain slaughter, he oflcred, at
the inttrces'^ion of the Cardiiml Perigord, through whose urgent
solicitations the fight had been delayed, to purchase a retreat, by
ceding the whole of his conquests made during this and the for-
mer campaign, and also by stipulating not to carry armt a|;sinst
France for seven years. These conditions were refused by John,
whose superiority of furce inspired him with an assurance of
victory; and he insistetl that the Prince, with 100 of his Knights,
should submit to an unconditional surrender: on these terms
alone would he consent to the unmolested retreat of the English
vmy. The gdlant youth treated the proposal with disdain.
He declared th^tt he would " accept of no conditions dcrtigaloty
of his own and his Other's glory, or any-wise calculated lo blo-
ipish the honor of the Englisii nation." This resolute answer
destroyed every hope of conciliation. The armies prepared tor
the combat: but the day having been spent in negociatiDg, tb».

Bahmiki. TIu Prince if Walii. Jtna Lord Aidlej'l Culei i frecOr. St.
Ciergf, Kc pigeiaS. The Capiat lU Buikc: Or on a crou Siblc, ^tetaOaf
■helliotlbefeld. The Earl of WarvAci : hii .rm. fititmd fourth Gule«, ■ f(M
bttwcen lix iron croulcU Or for Bcauchimp, second and third eliecky Or wA
Aiure; ■ chevron Erraine for Newboargh.ihcincientorli. Sir Jtbi PMtmt
AiuielhKcpelicaDi Argent, vulning thcmielvci proper. 5ir Dctmii Mrr d^l
AiDtcaffuOr. LariCeiham: Gulu on a chevron Or, three ttin Sable. Tt*
ilatsktii a white banner. Tht Eait tj Svjtik: SMk, a crou enfuiled Ot.
•tlK Eiut ej Oxftrd: qojrterly Gulu ind Or : in the fiist quaiUr ■ mullet At.
gem. Thr ArMifitft/Sai! habited in hit jurcoal, with hii milrewliit head.'
Jtmi Ltrl 'J Bmrtm, in hit luicoit, embroidered wLih ihe »mn of Frjnce ;
over ill bend Gulet, charged with three lioni pissint Or. Jalin Earl i^ ArUii!
In > luicoal of France, with a libel of three poinu Gulu, on each point three >
towcnOr. Sir ArnatldCcnantci: (h«.aTV.aovinii t\\e A'ch Print ;) ioaiuri
coil of the irnii of France, within a bordure Gules. — In the fore-ground Ut
IhetcTKorHici: The banner of Fra»it. The stand ird Oriilammt. Tbcban-
lOrof Lord Ccii^iJ de Ctarpy, (jlandard.beirer to the K!ig of Frt»tt:) Guld
three uculcbconi Argent The Daupkin'i shield ; iimi of frince and Dauphiny
quarterly, and i label of three pointi. The Dnii ef Altitv: thield with hia
ahm, vii. quirterlyof nine pieces Gulei and Ermine. The Lrrd JtUCUrmKUi'i
ahield bearing a device of the yi'gi' Mary. The Dultt aj Batrian: helmet with
bii cteM, a neuT dc lyi. The Lni laiittt it Rit$ma*ti helmet adorned with i
shaplctof pialU.

BBRKSniRB, 337

battle was deferred till the next morning. In the ni^t the Prince
tirciigthencd bis post by new entrenchmai^ts, and conlriTeci an
ambusCBile in the vineyards stirroundim; ihc field, a.nd intmstcd
its cuinmand to the Captal dc Buchc. Early on the 19th of Sep-
tember the engagement commenced; and the cooi yet determined
conduct of the Enghsh soon rendered their superiorily evident
over the impetuous, but disordered and lU-direcled, vi^or of the
enemy. There was no approach to the field where thu Prince
had drawn up his troops, but through a narrow lane covered with
hedges, and lined with a body of archers, whose hostile shafts be-
ing govenwd by a deliberate aim, slaughtered numbers of the
French soldiers, whilst those who made the ha«oc continued in

. at len^rih having arriv«i at
I body of tlnglish troops pre-
ere immediately beaten, and
y, which their sudden recoil
,t the Captal de Buchc

complete security. A dctachmi
the end of the lane, met » cho
pared for their reception, and
driven back upon their own ai
threw into disorder. At the >iiii
■allied from his concealment, attacked the flank of the division
commanded by the Dauphin, increased the panic, and defeated
the vanguard, which falling back on the second line, so multi-
plied the confusion, that somu of the French commanders com-
menced a retreat, which terminated in absolute (light. Lord
Chandos, who saw that this movement was decisive of their over-
throw, exclaimed " the day is won ;" and adiised the Prince to give
battle to the division led by the King of France. " Advance in
the name of God and St. George !" cried llie Prince aloud. The
trumpets sounded the chai-ge, and he immediately enfiaged the
third division of the Fi'ench army. The shock was fierce and
dreadfiil ; both parties maintaining the conflict with desperate re-
solution. The intrepidity of the English prevailed; and the
utmost exertions of King John, who, ivitb a brave band of
warriors, fought with uncommon fury, were insuificicnt to wrest
the victory from the yoiilhful Edward. The standard of France
was overthrown, many of her most disiinjruished nobility slain,
and the King with his youngest son forced to surrender themselves
prisoners. The Prince treated his royal cHplivcs with eminent
courtesy.

338 BERKSniRE.

courtesy, provided a re^rast for their refreshmetit, taid with tru«
humilily, and generous forgetfulnrss of his father's claims to the
throne, treated the Fri^nch Monarch with that respect as a pri-
soner, which he had refused to his demands as a Sovereign. The
painting represents the point of time when Denis de Morbeqiie,
to whom the King of France surrendered, is presenting his captive
to the Prince,

On 8 retrospective view of these performances, we cannot bat
advert, with the most pleasurable sensations, to the progress of tha
historic pencil in this country, and its rapid, tho' late, approxinui-
tion towards eminence, 'llie invidious animadversionsof fctreign
critics on the incapacity of Enghsh artists to portray an histoncal
■ubject with justice, are now effectually controverted ; and we
can asscri, with no less pride than truth, that ail the productions
of foreign painters, derived from History, and completed within
the last 35 years, are not equal to the number executed by the
President of the Royal Academy, On the general merit of hi«
performances it is unnecessary to expatiate ; yet we cannot con-
clude without observing, thai the pieces above described, form an
honorable monument of his abilities as a painter, and perspicuity
asan historian. While time permits them to exist, they will pre-
scncthe memory of his knowledge of the persons, circumstances,
and costume* of the age, whose history he had undertaken to il-
lustrate.

St, Georob killimo the Dkacon: We^^t. This pic-
ture of the tutelar Saint of England was executed as a proper
nccompaniment to the institntinn of the Garter, of which Order
he was constituted patron by Edward the Third, The subject b
derived from the fabulous tale related in tlic I^gmda Aurta of
Jacolnis dc Vuragine, who lived towards the conclusion of the
thirteenth century. As his work ^vas one of the earliest that
issued from the press in this country, and is now exceedingly
scarce, it cannot be deemed superfluous to quote the passage re-
lative to the piece under consideration.

" Saynt

• Mr. Wntwu the/rjrirtiMwhoiuct«dedintbt Jrttemplloarrjy hjnaricil
'fiinin in the dicna of the timo, tnd the habiU of tbcir mpttiUve cc

bcuksiiiire, tS9

Saynt George was a knyghte bom at Capadose. On a 13^100
he came into the province of Libya, to a cylc whyche is aay'd
Sylene, and by this cy te was a stagne or ponde lyke a see, wherein
was a. dragon whych envenymed alle llie contro ; and the peple
of the cyte ga^■e to him every day two sheep for to fcdy him; and
when the sheep fayled, there was taken a man and a sheep,
Thenne was an ordaniunce made in llie loune, that there shuld
be taken the chyldren and yung peple of them of the toune by
lotte, and that it so happed tlie lotte fyl upon the Kynge's
doughtcr, Avhereof the Kyng was sory, and saydc, for the love
of Goddes, lake goldc and selver, ami alle that I have, and let me
have my doughter ; and the people sayd, how, sir, ye have made
and ordained the lawc, and our chyldren be now deed, and now ye
wold do the contrarye ; your doughter shall be gy^'cn, or else we
shall brenne you and you holdes. When the Kynge saw he
myghl no more doo, he began to weepe, and returned to the
peple, and demanded eight daycs respyte ; and when the eight dayes
were passed, thcnn dyd the Kynge araye his doughter lyke as she
should be wedded, and ledde hyr to the place where the dragon
was. When she was there, Saynt George, passed by, and de-
maunded of the layde what she made iheiB; and she sayde, go
ye your waves, fayre young man, thai ye [*-ish not also," The
legend then relates, " that the dragnn appcrcd, and Saynt
George, upon his borse, bore himself againsf the dragon, and
imote hym with his spere, and threw Jiym to the ground, and
delivered the ladyc to her fader, who was baptized, and all his
peple."

This story has frequently given employment to the pencil ; yet
the ingenuity of the present artist has treated it in a novel man-
ner. The Princess is portrayed on h,er knees, and scerait)^_
embarrassed with contending emotions. Her hope is sicklied o
wilk fie yah cast of fear. She wishes to confide in the protection
of the gallant Saint, yet appears to dread the issue of the combat.
The sympathy excited by this animated expression of the feelings,
renders the piece peculiarly intercsling. The coloring of the
landscape, and the keep of tlie subordinate parts, have scarcely
ever been exceeded. Tba

S40 BGRKnniRE.

The true history of St. G«)rge is a subject that lias involved
(he literary world in mttch controversy ; and fven now the ojw-
nions of the learatd on the question of his existence appear to be
divided. B)' some he is regarded as b real personage, who was
born and martyred in Cappadocia: by oihers, be is considered
as the oR'spring of a warm imagination, whose birth was a mere
cohagr of the brain, and all his attributes ideal. Which ever of
these conchisions are correct, it is incontestible, that he became
the tutelar saint of England at a. very early period, hJi name being
found in the martyrulogies of the venerable Bede. In Gibbon's
Roman History, he is traced to a fuller's shop in Epiphania.
" From this obscure and servile origin," says the historian,
" he raised himself by the talents of a panuite ; and the patrons
whom he assiduonsly flattered, procured for their worthless de-
pendant, a lucrative commission or contract, to snpply the army
with bacon. His employment was mean: he rendered it infii-
roous. He accumulated wealth by the basest arts of fraud and
corruption ; but his malversations were so notorious, that he was
compelled to escape from the pureuits of justice. Afier this
disgrace, in which he appears to have saved bis fortune at the
expcnce of his honor, he embraced, with real or affected zeal,
the profession of Arianism." He afterwards became Bishop of
Alexandiia, where his intolerable oppressions excited tlic indigna-
tion of llie populace; and in a tumult purposely raised, be was torn
in pieces by the mob, and his remains thrown into the sea, to
]}rp\'ent their receiving the future honors, which the superstiliou*
veneration of his votaries were expected to bestow. This design,
however, was rendered ineffectual by the absurd bigotry of his Arian
disciples, who " introduced his worship into the bosom of the
Cutholic Church," where " the odious stranger, disguising every
circumstance of time and place, assumed tlie mask of a martj-r.
a saint, and a Christian hero ; and the infamous George of Ca[>-
padociu has been transformed into the renowned St. George, the
patron of England, Chivalry, and the Garter.'' This tale of the
origin and conduct of the Cappadocian martyr, thus divested of
its legendary accompaniments, has met «iih many supporters;

though

though seremi literary characters have contendcil, that the pro-
fligate Arian bishop, and thecelcbratt-d chmupiuD uf Cbristencloin,
were not the same persons. I'hc Legeuda Aurta, before quoted,
asserts, that in the " noble college in the castle of Wyndsore, is
the harte of Saynt George, whycli Sygjsmonde, the emperor
of Almayne, brought, and gave for a (treat and precious relic to
K. Hanye the Fyfth ; and also, here is a peyce of his hede."

The Kino's Phesexcc Ckamber is decorated with four
of the cartoons already mentioned, and likewise with the
foUowii^ pieces.

Pbter, Czar of Moscow: Sir Godfrey Kneller. TTib is a
full length, dated l6()S, the year in which this extraordinary
personage visited En^nd. I'be back ground is ortiamenled with
shipping bv Van Diesl. The Cxar is represented in armour.

Prometheus and the Vultuke; Young Palma.

To mighty Jove, Promdhcui ow'd hii paint;

Anil, bound wiih hard, incitricibJc chaiiu

To » luge column in the midinoil pan,

He bore Ms lUlTcrlnji with > d»iiiltleu hurt.

From JoK in eagle flew with wingi wide iprtMl,

And on hit never-dying liver fed :

What wilh hiJi lav'noui b»k by dsy he tore,

The nighl lupphcd, and fumiih'd him with mare.

CooiCt'9 Hllias'l TutOGOMT.

A portrait called Duns Scoths in the catalogue, and swd
to have been executed by Spngiiolelto. Mr. Walpole has re-
marked, in his jEdes Walpolianx, tliat " this picture must be
ideal, as Scotus died in 1308, when there was no such thing ai
a tolerable painter; besides, the portrait reprcients him as an
elderly man, whereas he was not thirty-four when he died."
Spagnoletto was not bom til! nearly three centuries afterwards.

In the Kiso's Guard Chamber is a great variety of
warlike instruments, fancifully disposed in columns, pillars, cir-
cles, shields, and other devices. Among the coats of mail is on«
that was worn by Edward the Black Prince. In this room ai«
also eight vievt's of battles, sieges, Uc. by Rugendas; and r

Vol. I. R portrait

943 BEftxsHine.

portrait of CHARLta the Eleventh, King of Sweden, by Van
Wyck. The Monarch k portrayed on a prancing sleed; and in
the back ground i« a representation of a battle, rendered admirvbU
by its grouping, coloring, and spirited drawing,

St. Gborge's Hall. This spacious apartment i» decorated
with some of Venio's* best performance). The ceiling, the nortk
side, and the end where ihe throne k placed, were all painted by
this artist, except the portrait of William the Third, which was
execuieJ by Sir Godfrey Kneller, The glaring absurdity of ^'eT-
Tia's paintings is more strikingly apparent from their contiguity lo
the chaste and classical designs of Mr. West. In delineating the
triumph of Edward- the Black Prince, he has represented that
young hero in a car, supported by »lavt$, and attended by the
Roman emblems of liberty and victory, intermixed with the ban-
ners of Franet and Scot /and ; and, to heighten the incongruitv of
the composiiion, he has introduced Shakespeare's Merry Wives ot
Windsor, together with his own picture, arrayed in a black hood
and scarlet cloak. This room is dedicated to the Order of the
Garter, and is seldom used but at the time of an installation.

St, George's or the Royal Chatel is embellished with
a vai'iety of scriptural devices, beautifully carved fay Gibbons.
Hence the stranger U conducted to the Queen's Cvabd
Chamber, which closes the number of apartrocnU open to the
public, and is ornamented with guns, pikes, bayonets, and other
arms, disposed in various forms.

The lower Ward is bounded on the east by the keep, and
divided into two parts by the collegiate church, or chapel of St.
George, The soulb and south-west sides are occupied by the

* " The exulKrant pencil of thii aniK," nyi Mr. Walpole, " wu rady H
pauring o»l godi, gaddeuu, klngi, CRiperore, ind iriumphi, over (hoH public
lurficcs on ^vhich (he eye never rtfb long enough t<t criticise, and when Out
ihould be lorty to place the worki of i better mutir. I mem ceiliap and
iiiir-ciici." Vcrno wu employed by Charlei (he Serondi and, (rom > memo-
randum ofVcrtut'i, preserved in >he anecdoicj of painting, it ipprati, thai he
Tecrived cuh and pruents lo the amnuntoF 6845). ^'- ^^• f*" "nbelliiliiDg iht
walli and ceiUnip of ihc cullc Many et the ipirMiiiHi SR covned wilK Ua
Xhiuid perfaiinanto.

ItERKSHIRE. S4S I

bouses of the alms, or poor kttights: the west end is tenaioated .

by the residences of the minor canoDS and choristers, built ia the \

ftirm of a hur^e-sh'^e; and on the norlh side are the apartments

of the dean, canons, clerks, vci^ers, and other officers belonging 'i

to the college of St. George. In the inner cloisters are the house* j

of the several prebendaries, and the college library, which Is ^

furnished with a well chosen selection of eccle^astical writings,

snd books on pohtc literature. In the afiartment called the '

Caktbii Room, is an ancient screen, emblazoned with the arms

6f all the Sovereigns and Knights of the Garter, from the ingtitu- ;

(ion of the order to the present lime.

Tut Chafel of Saint GEoaoEwas erected by Bdward . J

the Third, on the ute of a smaller titructure, built by Henry the ^^^H

First, and dedicated to tklward the Confessor. The mode of ob- ^^^H
tainiiig workmen was nearly the same as iJiat employed in con- ^^1

Structing the CH>>tle ; a persoji being appointed to superintend the
building, and empowered to impress artiliccrs, and constrain
them to labor at the King's wages, under pain of imprisonment. J

The origin of its magnificence, however, may be attributed to J

Edward the Fourth, by whom it was very considerably enlai^dt ^ %^ ^
»nd rendered one of the most beautiful structures of that era. In - ^ ^'
the reigns of Henry the Seventh and his successor, it underwent
Mveral alterations; but the improved stale in which it now ap-
pears, is owing to the taste and munificence of his present Majes-
ty, who has expended nearly 20,0001, in ita repairs and embel*
lishments. At Ibis period it may be regarded as the most com- I

plete and elegant specimen of what b termed the florid Gothic
in the kingdom.

The inside of the chapel is singularly neat ; its architectural
•yraraetry, appropriate ornuraeiits, chaste devices, and

Slorlcd wlodowi, ilchl)rdight,

Cuting a dim icligioui light, I

have a powerful ct1i;ct on the imagin&lion, and seem calculated to

•oothe even the most troubled bosom to peace and serenity. The

toof is an ellipsis composed of stone, and admirably executed, Th^

R a piUafS

^im

944 BERK SHI HE.

pillars arc of the ancient Gothic kind i the rihs and groins that sup-
port the ceiling are disposed with considerable judgment. The inte-
rior space is formod into a choir, a nave, and correspondent aisles.
The whole ceiling ia decorated with heraldic Insignia, intermin-
gled with the arms of many Sovereigns and Knights of the Gar-
ter, beautifully emblazoned. The nave is separated from the
choir by the organ gallery. The roof and columns that support
the loft, form a light and elegant colonnade, perfectly in unison
with the rest of the chapel, and embellished with appropriate
devices. The screen is composed of Coade's artificial sione ; and
the expense of its erection is said to have amounted to 15001.
The organ was built by Mr. Green, and the organ-case by Mr.
Elmyn ; the latter is richly ornamented in the Gothic style.

The Choir may be regarded as a pattern of the most admira-
ble workmanship. It was built by Edward the Third, but greatly
improved during the reigns of Edward the Fourth, and Henry
the Seventh. The vaulting of the roof was not compieted till the
latter end of (he year 1508,* This division of the structure is
appropriated to the more immediate worship of the Deity; to the
installation of the Knights of the Garter, and to the preservation
of their names and honors.

The stalls of the Sovereign and companions of the order are ran-
ged on each side the choir. Formerly their numlwr \*as twenty-
six, hut six more have lately been added. The ancient staU of
the Sovereign was removed in the year 1788, and a new one,
highly carved in ihc Gothic raanncr, erected underthe direction
ef Mr. Elmyn. In the centre are the arms of the King encircled
with laurel, and crowned with the royal diadem; the whole is
surrounded wilh^ciir* dr Igs, the letters G. li. and the star of tJie
order. The curtains and cushions are of blue velvet, fringed with

gold.

• D»llawiy, in hii Asicdiilts eflkc Arts, hii ifftrmed, Uiit " ike choitown
iu oiigiml building ind completion, in i^oS, lo Sir Rcginild Bray." Tliii <*
evidenilyimi)t>kc,>i [hit eminent lUleimin and architect dieil in the ymt ijOi.
Tliecrior may hfveitixn from thclibcnl l>cni.-(actioni oi Sir JtEglnald towardi
finuhing the body of the chapct, Tiic viulting of the ehoii loof wai undmiken
by two frec-masoiu, Dimed John Hyliccr and Williim Veriue, for 7O0I,

• golili The stalls of the knigbts display b profusion of ricli carved
uork. On the pedestals is a series of delineations, representing
tJic history of the Redeemer, from his nativity to his ascension:
and OQ the front of the stalls, at the west end of the choir, the
actions of St. George are purlrnyed. The mantle, helmet, crest,
and sword of each knight are pluceiJ on the canopies of their re-
spective stalls. Over the canopies, the banner or arms of the
knights are displayed, elegantly emblazoned on silk; and at the
back of each stall are the titles of tlie personage to whom it be-
longs, with his arms neatly engraved, and blaaoned on cojiper.
The Sovereign's banner is of rich velvet, and much larger than
those of the knights ; his mantling is of rich brocade. The car-
ved work of the choir abounds with variety of imagery, and se-
veral ligurcs of saints, patriarchs, and kings: these, previous
to the late repairs, were much mutilated, but have since been re-
stored to nearly their original state,

TheaJtar is embellished with a painting of the LastSuppeRi
by West. This is a very masterly composition, and charmingly
executed; though the figure of Judas has been supposed to detract
from its general merit, his visage being so expressive of deceit, as
to cau^ it to be obsen'ed, that if his real features had been in
unison with this resemblance, all confidence must have been de-
stroyed, and the design of betraying his master rendered abortive.
This remark, however, is of little weight. Jesus hieio thai Isca-
riot would betray him, and therefore, if all the malignity of a
Nero had been impressed on his countenance, it could not have
made his perfidy more legible, llie beautifully carved wainscot
surrounding the altar, was designed by Mr. Thomas Sanby, and
executed under the inspection of Mr. Elmyn. It contains the
arms of Edward the Third, Edward the Black Prince, and those
of the original Knights of the Garter, with various symbols of
the order, displayed within two circular compartments. The
ornaments consist of peUcans, grapes, wheat, sacramental vessels,
and other devices, judiciously disposed, and executed with con-
siderable taste. The altar was formerly adorned with rich hangt
ii)gs of crimson velvet and gold, but was disrobed of its splendid
R 3 furaitura

?4ff

BERKSIIIHE.

furniture in the year 1462, by Cnptain Fogg, nndor pffltence of
parliamentary authority. At thi? same time abo, it vras plun-
ifcred of the numerous gold vessels, which the tnuniiicetice or
piely of suceessi»e Sovereigns and Knights otihe Garter had here
consecrated to religious uses. The plate thus seized is said lo
have weighed 35BO ounces, and lo have been wrought in a very
exquisite manner. On the restoration of Charles the Second, a,
Bubscriptioii was opened, and every requisite for the re- embellish-
ment and service of the altar, supplied from the liberal contribn-
tions of the Sovereign and Knights of the Garter, and other bft*
nevolent persons.

Several windows of this superb fabric arc beautifully painted,
and, foT general composition, biilliancy of color, and correct ex-
ecution, rival mo'^t embellishments of a similar nature in the king-
dom. The superior escellenceof the window above the aliar,ihougfa
but the second in magnitude, intilles it to precedence in descrip-
tion. The subject is the Resuriiection ;• the deli nca lion
of which is dikplayed in three compartments. In the fore-ground
of the centre, the Roman soldiers are depicted in attitudes ex-
pressive of surprise and terror, gazing with extreme astonishment
on the Saviour, who is represented ascending from the sepulchre,
preceded by the Angel of the Lord; aliove whom, in [he clouds,
is an host of cherubim and seraphim. In the right-hand division,
Mary Magdalen, and Mary, tlie mother of James and Salome,
are portrayed, approaching the sepulchre with spices and ungu-
ents, to anoint the body of the crucified Redeemer. In the left
compartment arc the disciples Peter and John, who are supposed
to have been informed that Christ was removed from tlie grave,

and.

* The idd oF (hit nagnilicimt omimentoriginittd with HiiMajcny. TW
curgc iot executing il wu defrayed by the Snvereign, Knighu, Prtlalc, and
Chincellorarihe GicUr, and ihe D«ii and Chapter of Wind Mr. The Riog't
lubKr.plion %va« nearly liOOguinaj, b(iid« lOO fonht Piincc of Wale, and
the lame sum for ibc Dukci of York and CUience, The foreign Filncei, wlio
were l^nighti ol the order, lubiciibed lOO gmnui each, and the otbci knight*
jO each. The giti of the Dean and Cliapter was jOO guincaj.

BEKKSHIRE. 2-iT

and, with countenances persaded by the must anxious expies-
sion, are running with gtvat speed cowards the sepulchre. This
splendid production was executed betttecn the years 1783 and
1788, by Messrs. Jarvis and Forest, from the exquisito designs
•f Mr. West, The expense of the painting is reported to liavo
been upwards of 40001. On two windows, one on the north-side
of the altar, the other on the south, the arras are depicted of
the Sovereign and knights who subscribed lu defray the above
sum. The arms of each knight are encompassed witli a star and
garter, and surmounted with his creat and corotKt. Beneath ia
the George pendant to a ribbon, on which the Chmtian name and
title are inscribed.

the east window of the south aisle is painted with a very am-
mttied representation of the A^-GEL8 appearino to tui
Shepherds. The countenances of the principal angels are
beaming with the most expres»ve benevolence. Above them are
the words " Glory to God in the highest, and nn Earth prace;
gooi! will totvards Men." On various scrolls, held by the rest of
the heavenly host, the tenth and eleventh verses of the second
chapter o1' Luke are inscribed. "Fear not: for behold 1 bring
you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people. For
unto you is bom this day in the city of Da%-id, a Saviour, which
is Christ the Lord." In tbe back-ground are the shepherds with
their sheep and dogs by moonlight. This is painted in a peculiar
style, and the adaptation of the tints to the light in whicb-it is
placed is managed with great judgment. The west window of
this aisle iserobellished with a brilliant delineation of the Nati-
vity OP Chkist. The tfifant Jesit^ appears sleeping in the
lap of his virgin mother, who is attended by Joseph bearing e
lamp, and surveying them in a thoughtful yet devout manner,
N>ear ihcm is a beautifijl figure of an angel with the olive branch,
accompanied by a group of cherubs. In the back and fore
grounds, various objects are depicted, either allusive of the re-
demption, or descriptive of the lowly birth of the Redeemer,

The west window of the north aisle is decorated, with a repro-

nentation of the Adoration of the Magi. In this painting

R i Je^U

24S fieRKSHIEE.

Jesus ii portrayed in a reclining posture in the lap of llw Vw>
gin ; behind whom appean the humble Josopii. In the front are
the wise men of the east, presenting their oHi^rings. Above them
is an angel and a luminous star. Thi^ae paintings were all designed
by Mr. West, and executed by Mr. Forest, in the years 1792,
1794, and 1796. Both the composition and ivurkmanship are
indicative of uncommon talents. The embellishments of the
great west window, consisting uf various figures of kings, patri-
archs, bishops, and other characters, composed with remnants of
stained glass, that were formerly scattered through diU'erent parts
of the building, are to be removed, and iheir places occupied
with a representation of the Crvcifixion, now painting by
Mr. Forest fruin the designs of Mr. West. This piece will be
one of the largest of the kind in Europe, the iutendcd size being
thirty-six feet by twenty-eight. The frame work i^ iron, of no
greater substance than is necessary tosuf^rt the glass. The ban
arc to be concealed in the shadows.

This structure has been the burial-place of several royal and
illustrious personages. At the east end of the north aisle the re-
jnaios of Edward the Fourth are deposited. Over his tomb is a
beautiful monument of steel, representing a pair of gali^ be-
tween two towers, curiously worked iii the Colhic >^tyle. Oo
a black marble slab, in front, is ihe name ffiOtnait JJJJi,, inlaid in
brass ; above, are his arms and crown, siipp^rlcd by angels,
Dn a fiat atone, at the ba^e of the monumrnl, aj-e the words.

Kina <IEi)lDsiti 3I3I3I3! anU ^ie Stuem SIlTBbctti OiSlibbillt.*

On the ISth of March, in the year 1/89, the workmen em-
ployed in repairing [lie chapel, perceived a small aperture in the
side of the vault where Edward was interred. I'his was soon
rendered sufficiently large lo admit an easy entrance-, and on
Ihe ialerior part beit% laid open, in presence of the surveyor and
too of the canons, the skeleton of the Monarch was found inulo-
ted jq s leaden aad a wooden cuflin; the latter meusuring six feet

three

* Ttiii lidy died in cotiEnenimt it Bemoniliey Abbey, iboul three yi
tflcrthe deceue of the King, tad ii lupiKiied to hare beoiiecretly ii

BERKSHIRE. 349

three inches in length. The bead was reclined to the north side

without any appearance of cerocluth or wrapper, rings or other

insignia. The bottom "f the coffin was covered with a glutinous

' inuddy liquor, about thi-ee inches deep, of a strong saline taste.

Near the bones of tht^ king was another coliin, supposed to have con*

' toined the body of Elizabeth Widville, but this was entirely empty.

Several names, inscribed with chalk, appeared on the inside of the

vault, the characters of which resembled ihiMC of the times ia

which it was made, and was ihoughl to have been written cither

by the workmen, or the attendants on the funeral. When the

^jcovery was eummunicatcd, the neighbouring inhabitants press*

, fid with such eagerness lo obtain a view und some relic of thn

, that the skeleton of the prince, which upwardu of three

s had failed to reduce to its native clernenl, would hav«

I ^cn frittered away in almost as many hours.

Henry the Sixth, the raild and inoffensive rival of Edward,

vas also buried in this chapel, near the choir door, in the oppo-

' aitc aisle. The arch under which his body was deposited, waf

' sumptuously embellished, according to the directions ^ven in the

will of Henry the Eighth ; but all the remains of the ensigns and

' devices with which it was decorated, are the royal arms sup-

L jtorled by two antelopes, connected by a golden chain: these

'are emblazoned on. the centre stone. The body of this ill-fated

prince was first buried at Chcrtsey, in Surrey, but afterwardi

conveyed to its present situation. The popular opinion, that

miracles were wrought through his intercession, induced Hcnrjr

■ the Seventh to apply to the papal see for his admission into the

L .calendar of saints, and likewise for a license to rejnove his relief

! to Westminster Abbey; but the exorbitant demands of the

I church of Rome not being in unison with the King's avaricioui

temper, the plan miscarried. This application occasioned a re-

I jK>rt that the body was actually removed; and Stowe observes,

fas not generally known what became of it. The wills,

, of both Henry the Seventh and Eighth, are decisive as

\ to the fact of its being at Windsor.

Tlie

950 BKKKSHISE.

The interment of these Monarch) beneath the same roof, ii
elegantly expressed by the mniie of Pope in the following plaintive

And pilmi tttm

il flouriihiouBdhiium.

Here, <.'«t Iht m

wrtyrKiwc, the marble wecpt.

And lux h«ide 1

mm, On«f«T'dEBWA.D.l.«pi,

Whom not >Vir (

tiendcd Aliion could contain,

Tfom old Bolerl

urn to lh= German miin,

T!«e""""i<«

; where e'en lh«gr«« find tttt.

And bitrdtd iif

the o[)pmiwr and oppreu'd.

In the roval vault in the choir, Henrv the Eighth, lii* Queen,
Lady Jane Seymour, and Charles the First, were buried ; though
the rentdins of the latter, as we are inforrael) by Lord Clarendon,
could not be fonnd when soiiglit for by direction of Charles
the Second. This search, it is observed in Pote's History of
Windsor Ca5tle, must have been hadig rxrcaird, its & manuscript
memorandum, in the possession of the executrix of Mr. Sewell,
a, man of probity, and ^^ho was chapter- clerk of the college above
forty year^, aflirms, that, upon " opening this vault for the interment
of a still-born child of the Princess of Denmark, aiienvards Queen
Anne, he went into the vault, and there saw the coffins of King
Henry the Eighth, and Queen Jane; also, the coffin of King
Charles the First, coveted with velvet, with a label on the cover,
whereon was marked, Ki>-g Charles i648; that the velvet trf
the coffin and pall was sound, and no-wajs rent; that the pall
laid over the coffin, was as at drsr Aung in at the burial ; that the
vault was small; and ihal the new-bum child was laid upon the
coffin of the King." After the interment of the child, the vault
was closed, and has never since been opened.

In a small chiipel," at tho cast end of the south aisle, the
bodies of the prudent EMward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln, (mm-

* HoK of [he (mill chipcli in (hit tai other rdigioiu Hniclurti, when the

Soman Caihallc ordinincn were originally celebrated, were fouiulul ai chaiw
triei, and endowed with rnenuei (or the maintEnance of prinu, whiMe office
wai diil/ to ay mui, ind other propttiatoiy tcrvicca, for the Muli of ita
loundct and hii kindred.

BEnKSniRE. t5t

meffpage *S,) "anil liis lady, rest in the peaeeEbrg'rive. fhi
I Cart dicil on tbe l6th of January, I5S4. His monument is of
f »laba6tcr, with square porphyry pillars, each surmounted by a
On the tomb ia tht- figure of liis lonlship in armour, tying
1 prostrate on a mat curiousty wrought, with his feet resling on a
I gfej hound IH hi* side is the effigy of his wife in a simitar pos-
I lure licr bead rc<ts on an embroidered cushion, and her feet oD
lODie aniina) Rounil the rooaunient arc ttie figures of their chil-
\ Akt\, five sons and three daughters, kneeling on cushions.

' Richard Bcjiichamp, Bishop of Salisbury, the first Chancellor
t-«ir tlic Order of tbe Garter, is likewise buried in this part of the
I ^sle. In a niche opposite his tumb, the underwritten inscription
I ieems to imply that a bmiaiy, or missal, mos formerly laid
" Who lyde this bookc here ? The Reucranrl Fader in
rCod Richard Bcauchamp, Bisehop nfthys Dyoccsse ofSarysbury.
t And u'herfor: To this eiitent, that Piiesics and Ministers of
L {Qoddis Church may here hiive tlie occupation tlierof, sejying
r Aerein thcyt Divyne Scrvjsc, and for allc othir that lysten to
I $By thcrby thcr dcvocyun, Adk)th he any spiritual Mcde; yee,
raoche as owre Lord ly^l to reward hym for hys good entcnt;
t praying euery ^lun wos dule or devocyon is eased by tliys Booke,
I tl>ey woll sey for hym thys conimiinc oryMtH Dne JhCi Xyc;
L knelyng in the presence of thys holy Crosse, for the wbyche the
I ReucranJ Fader in God aboucseyd haihc graunled of the tresura
Ljlf Ihc Cbarche, to euy IMan m dayys of Pardun." On the centre
[• ftone of the adjoining arch, the cross referred to is rudely carved,
[ together with tbe lignres of Edward die Fourth and Bishop BeaU'
L champ, l>esidc it, on their knccs.

Lower down in this aisle, is a small chantry, erected in the
tycar 1532 by John Oxenbridgc, a canon and bcncfaclor to the
■ chapel. Over the door is a lion runiiuint, with many escallop
V ihells, and the rebus of the founder's name in iha obvious signi
I of an o\, the letter N. and a bridge. Contiguous to this, is King's
it has latterly been called, Atdworih Chapel, which, from
ious devices on the walls, appean to have been built by
' Dr. Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and ^^'elIs, whose remains are

said

35S BESKSniftE.

said to have been deposited within it. The oaken pannets
opposite to this chapel are decorated with cai-vin^ of the arms
and devices of Prince Edward, son of Henr}- the Sixth i Edward
the Fnurtli ; and Henry the Seventh ; whose portraits also ore
represented at full knglh on (he pannels. Near llie middle of the
aisle is Bray Chapel, erected by Sir Reginald Bray, before men-
tioned, and where his body was afterwards deposited, in puisu-
ancc of the directions of his will. This gentleman was highly in-
strumental in the advancemennt of Henry the Seventh to the
throne, and his judicious counsclB were supposed to have had
considerable influence in the union of the rival houses of Vwrk
and Lancaster.

Many of the noble &mi1y of Bc-aufurt are intcri'ed in a small
chapel, called from their name, at the west end of this aisle. The
monument to the memory of Henry Somerset, Duke of Beautbrt.
who died on the 21st of January, IC39, is composed of while
marble. The upper part is supported by Corinihian columns,
whose shafts are entwined with leaves and flowers. In the
centre, on the top, is the duke's coat of anni', sumiounted with
a coronet, and on each side is a flaming urn, embellished with
wreaths of flowers. On the front the duke appears reclining on a
cushion; and in relievo, in the bHck ground, several c he rub»,
and two angels, bearing a crown and palm. Below the Duke, St.
George is represented killing ihe Dragon; and between the co-
lumns, on the opposite sides of tlie monument, arc the statues of
Justice and Fortitude. On the base is a Latin inscription, chiefly
relating to his titles and offices. Another marble monument in
this chapel, inclosed in a screen of gilt brass woric, records the
memory of Charles Somerset, Earl of Worcester, who died in
1526, and his lady, Elizabeth, the daughter and heiress of Wil-
liam Earl of Huntingdon. On the tomb is the figure of the Earl
dressed in ihc habit of the garter, with his head resting on a hel-
met. By his side lies his lady in her robes of state. An inscrip-
tion on a marble tablet, affixed to the wall, informs us, that
Henry Marquis of Worcester, who so gallantly defended Ragland
^v ^ Caslle,

- k

Castle, in Monmoillhsliire, for Charles the First, is Ukewi
buried in this chapel.

In Rutland Chapel, in the middle of the north aisle, is a neat
alabaster monument, erected to the memory of Sir George Man-
ners, lard Rous, who died in the jcor 1513, and Lady Anne, hts
wife, niece to Edward the Fourth. On the tomb, Sir George lies
dreneil in annour, his'feet resting on a helmet, and his head on
an animal. His lady, in her rubes of state, lies by bis side,
ber head resting on a cushion, supported by two angels. On each
side the tomb are their sons and daughters; and at one end an-
gels displaying the family arms. Ann, Duchess of Exeter,
sister to Kdward the Fourth, and mother to the above lady,
and Sir Thomas Syllinger, her husband, are also deposited in
this rhapet.

Near the choir door, in the north aisle, is a chapel dedi-
cated to St. Stephen, whose history is painted on panneh in the
inside. On the first the saint is preaching to the people: the
next represents him before the tribunal of Herod : the third por-
trays the Jews atoning him : in the last he appears dead ; and
above him his beatification. On the fore-ground is inscribed in
Latin, " He dies in the Lord by whom eternal life is given."
This chapel was built by Elizabeth, wife to William Lord Has-
tings, whom Richard destroyed for his loytilty to the issue of
Edward the Fourth. His remains are said to have been buried
here.

Manv other distinguished persons are interred within this
fabric. Of these we shall only particularzie Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk, who married Henry the Eighth's sister; Dr.
Giles Tomson, Bishop of Gloucester; Dr. BriJeoake, Bishop of
Chicbetler; the leumed Dr. Waterland; Theodore Randue, Esq.
keeper of Windsor palace in the reign of Charles the Second; Dr.
Wade ; Dr. Honeywood ; and Sir Henry Clinton, Bart.

Adjoining to the altar, on the north side, is a gallery called
\ the Queen's Closet, formerly used only for the accommodatiou
1 of ladies at an installment, but repaired in the year 1780, and
^iltEed up for their Majesties and tiunily tu utia^t divine service

Tha

354 BKHESBIItE.

The wainscat and canopy are in (he Golhic style, painted to
imitale Nonvay oak. The ivindoivs are ornamented With painted
glass. In one of them are the arms of their Majesties by Bnstow,
a sun-flower by West, and a roi^ by Jarv-js. In the chapter
house, which is situated at the east end of tlie north aisle, is a
whole length portrait of Lduard the Third, dressed in his robes
and holding a sword in his right hand, with the crowns of Fiance
and Scotland.

The Okdek of the Gartek is so particularly coDocicled
with tkff dccon^iuDS «f the chitpel, iJiat some account of tlial
imlitKtion seenu to be a necessary adjunct to the description of
ti^ lupoid edifice. The occasion of its origin is involved in much
•bscuii^; the Iftbon of historians having referred it to various
contTBdictory* circumstances ; but the most probable cause is the
■trong passion formilitary glory which i-eigned in the bosom of
Edward the TUrd, the acknowledged founder. The numermii
complex movements tliat emanated from this Prince's assertioD
of hit claims to the ciown of France, convinced btm of the high
Importance of inspiring his followers with a similarity of ideas
and principles, and he formed the design of associating bis must
deserving soldiers in one honorable society of love and brother-
hood. Success in arms, he p>crceivi>d, was dependant on unity
of conduct ; and no v ay seemed so likely to direct the divergent
actions of individuals to the same point, as exciting u kindred
spirit of emulation and amity. With this intent, and that be
might have an opportunity of increasing the skill and hardihood
of his knights by chivalrous exercises, he determined to restore
the ancient order of the Round Table, and, by dropping the idle
ceremonies

* Jothm Bamel, in hii history of Edward ihc Third, tnca iu origin to tlie
ntcniciant, who were KCUHomcd to cncirclf their bodia with a blur or pof-
pleflllel, ■• » amulet agiinst ihipwruk. Other wriien aicribc ii to Richard
Onr/lt Liai, who it laid to Iiive bound a lewhccn Urip round ihe leg! of hU
bravest warriors, u a badgr of merit, ic lite siege of Aeon, on the boidin^af
Palestine, A ilurd opinion, originating with Polydort VI'
id]e taleof the CoM|eii of Saliibury dropping hctgancrala
tactiba it tolh^^''™'^"" of Edward thL Third bavinj
MMkward m the battle of Croiy.

BEKKSIIIRS.

tss

ceremonies of etiquette, bind them more immediately to his
person tlirough the obligniions o( esteem and friendship. These,
however, were iiot the only purposes he meant to cHcct by the
revival of the inslittitiun of King Arthur. Hb war with Franca
ronilered il necessary !6 cultivate the assistance of foreign war-
riors; and the martial splendor so conformable to the spirit of
the age, which the re-establishment uf this order furnished him
with the means of exhibiting, would, he iniegined, induce them
tn visit England, and inspire them with an inehnntion to engage
in his service. Fraught with these ideas, he ordei-ed preparations
lo be made at Windsor for a grand toiimaraent, to be held on
the l.ijth of January, 1344; and on new year's day issued letters
of invitation end safe conduct to nil foreign knights who were de-
sirous of trying their vulor at the ensuing festival ; and still fur-
ther (0 promote his scheme, signilied in the proclamation, that
himself would be present at the ceremony, together with his
(jueen, 300 of the fairest ladies of his court in their most splendid
attire, and tlie principal of his nobility. This expedient wa«
attended with complete success; the thoughts of stich a. combi-
nation of beauty and magnificence having so powerful an influence
over the minds of foreigners, that the meeting was graced by the
■ssemUogc of the most illustrious persons in Europe; and the re-
sult prot'ed so favorable to the wishes of Edward, that be resolved
tlie touniamcnt should be held annually, and had a circular
building cumtnicted in the castle for the particular accommod&-
I lion and entertainment of the company.

About this period Philip, King of France, who had penetrated
the intenrions of the English Monarch, caused a Round Table to
'be set up at Paris, with the design of count cnic ting the deep-laid
plan of his opponent. The good policy of the new institution
loon became apparent; for Edward, being convinced that the at-
trai^tions of the rival establishment operated to decrease the influ-
ence of hi* own, quickly gave it up, and conlenied hiiiiscif with
'forming an association of a more select nature. This was the
Order of the Garter, which was said by the learned Selden to
M. "«cwA

J56 BERKSHIRE.

" exceed in meijeaty, honor, and fame, all the chivalrous ordera
of the world,"

Previou!' to its complete establishment, the King held an as-
scrobly of his etirls, barons, and principal knighlj, to conmit as
(0 the best mode of increasing its grandeur, and to assist him
in forming the necessary regulations for its govemmenl. It was
probably at this meeting, that the idea, was $ui:gested of limitiiig
tlie number of persons to be received into the order to twenty-six:
a circumslance materially connected with its splendor, and high-
ly conducive to the great cstiinBlion with which it has been re-
garded from the period of its institution : no altoratiou in this
respect having been made till the 3d of June, 178(i, when, by an
injunction ol his Majesty, the badge of distinction was in luOue
lo be extended to the King's sons.

The lirst inEtallation was m the year \3i9, on the anniversary
of St. Geoige, who was declared the peculiar patron of the
order. The ceremony was attended by an immense concourse of
people, many of whom curiosity had attracted fiy>m very distant
countries. The Sovereign, and his twenty-five companions,* went
in procession to the chapel, clothed in russet gowns, and man-
tles of line blue woollen cloth, embroidered with garters, and wear-
ing the whole insignia of the order. After the ceremonies of instal-
lation, the knights were magniticently entertained at the expeocc
of the King. The festival continued for several days; the mar-
tial sport of the tournament being intermingled with the softer
diversions of the ball.

The ensigns of the order are extremely magnificent : they con-
sist of the gaiter, mantle, surcoat, hood, George and collar.

These

• Ttit Snt KnighU of (he G»iter, wew, the Sovtreign Edwird [he Thlii,
Edward ihe Blsck Printt. Henry Duke of Linculcr, Thomu Beiudump

Eirl of Warwick, ilie Cipul de Bucb«, Ralph Earl of Sufford, Wiltlvn
Bonucute Eai] of Salubury, Roger Mortimer Eail of Much, John dc
VlsW, Banholoinc* Butgliwcrsh, John fltjuchamp, Jalin dc Mohun, Bugh
Courtnejr, ThomaiHoUaod, John Gn^, Richard Fili-Simon, Milci Suplcun.
,ThDinai Walle, Hugh Wiiothnlcy, Nlcl Loring, John Chindos, Jamu dc
'Auilicy, Olho Hal)«od, HnrY £iue, Zaucbet d'Aubcncourl, add WiUiam
. Fivtliy.

BERKSHIRE. 357

These collectively are called the Habit. The four first vem
a-ssj^ned to tlic kniglits by the foundi^r: the George and cullitr, by. i
Henry the Eighth. The gurter is of blue velvet, burdereil witfi i
gold wire, and enamelled with the motto, Honi Soit Qui -MaI
V Pksise. This is worn between the knee atjd ciitf, on the left
leg, and ie generally considered a^ an emblem of the band of '
affection and concord that ought to unite the companions of the
order. Tho color of the nianile is a rich blue: the left shoulder
is adorned with the arms of St. George embroidered within s
large garter, and irradiHied with beama of silver. Tile collar it
composed of pieces of gold, fashioned like garters; the ground^
being enamelled blue, the leiiers of the motto gold, with a
rose in the centre of each garter. The George is ap|)cadaiiE from'
the middle of the collar, and displays the Hgure of that saint oB
horse-back, tilting at the dragon. The whole is ontamentod
with precious stones. '

The officers of this order are, the Prelate, Bishop of Wincfaei*
ter; Chancellor, Bishop of Salisbury ; Register, Dean of \Vind>
for; Garter, and King at Arms, (both oflices being united tn on*
pctson;) and the Usher of the Black Rod, Among the Dunie*
rous foreign potentates that have been admitted into this instito
tjon, are nine Emperors of Germany, five Kings of France, three
Kings of Spain, five Kings of Portugal, rwo Kings of Naples,
live Kings of Denmark, two Kings of Sweden, two Kings of Scot*
land, one King of Prussia, and seven Princes uf Orange, besides
a great number of the most illustrious churaciers in Europe, "

When the knigbtA at the order assemble to (ill up the vacant
stalls, " the chancellor collects the votes; for, though the Sove-
reigii properly elects, the knights have a liberty of nomination,
except the pcreon be a foreigner. Each knight may nominate
nine persons, out of whom the Sovereign chuses one. Garter
is then sent out of the chapter to announce it to the person clect-
«d, and conduct him to the presence of the Sovcrcigu, who in
person, or by deputy, inveiti him with tlic ensigns uf the order;
[lie garter in buckled round his left leg, and tiiQ George hung

Vol. 1, S rouad

2Jd BERKSHIRE.

round his neck*" by a dark blun ribbon. Ttie mantle and oiher
ornHments arc not put ou till the installation.

The Royal College of Saint George, to which the order of
llie garter it altiicheil, was intorporaied in the twenty-se-
cond year of Edward the Third; but the original articles of
foundation were much varied by succeeding princes. The present
establishment consists of a dean, twelve canons, or prebendart<s,
seven minor canons, thirteen clerks, ten choristers, a steward,
treasurer, and other officers. The income uf the minor ca.nun»
may be estimated at about sixty pounds yearly. The salaries of
ihc clerks arc 231. 10s. per annum each, together with a place
of reside nee.

The great respect of Edward the Third for military honor.
and the feelings uf charity, which, amidst the din of arms, some-
tiiiies found the way to his heart, occasioned him to provide ao
asylum and maintenance for a select number of knights, whose
circumstances were so reduced by advcrsQ fortune, that they had
not wherewith to sustain them, nor to live so gentecllyas became
a military condition. These were called Mi/ilei Paaperei; but
ihc appellation they afterwards received was the Alms, or Poor
Knights of Windsor. Previous lo (he institution of the Ganer,
their number was twenty-four; but at that period they were in-
creased to twenty-iiix. By the charter of incorporation, they
were united with the dean and canons of St. George's College;
but dissentions frequently arising between the respective bodies,
in art was obtained in the twenty-second year of Edward Uie
Fourth, by which the dean and canons were tor ever exempted
from contributing towards the maintenance of the knights. From
this time their subsistence was very precarious, and their num-
bcis continued to decrease, till Edward the Sixth, in pursuance
of a clause in his father's will, vested revenues in the CDll^se,
to the amount of 60OI, annually, to be employed for the use
ftnd support of a new astablithment fo^ ihirree^ poor koighta
only. In the reign of Mar\', the houses in the lower ward were
bui|t tor their reception ; and (he Queen qoipii^tecl nine pef^ona

(o
f Gough'i AilJidon* to Camdci],

BtRKSIIlRE,

2S9

to enjoy the first fruits of the revival of tlic charily. On llic ac-
cession of Eliiabcth, all the fomicr grants were cmilirnieil, and
the alms knights inci'eoseil to the number orduincd by Ilcnry th« ,
EigliU). At tlib period also, some rules were citahlished for"-
their election and government, which arc still in force, thou^*
the injunctions they contain are not always adhered to. By
Aese slaliLtes, the thirteen knights are " to be taken of gcntlenioo,
brought to HcceMtfjf, tiLch as hiive spent their limes in the senire tf |
thepriiK€," It is directed likewise, tliat ihey should lie unmarried^
and continue so, under pain of vjicating their places on tht
wedding-day. Tlie annual allowance of the knighls upon thitf
establishment was 181. 5s, iind 31, (is. 8d. for a gown of red, aiui
a mantle of blue or purple cloth, with the cross of St. Gcorga
embroidered on the left shoulder. These sums arc to be puid
from the revenues vested in the dean and chajilei'. James the
First ordered the pensions to be augmented by the additional
sum of ISl. 5s. to every knight, payable from ihe exchequer.
The income therefore of each pensioner is about 401. yearly.

Besides the poor knights on the royal foundation, there ara '
five others, who are supported by donations bequeathed in ihi
years l63I and l635, by Sir Peter la Maire, and Sir Francil
Crane. The houses for tlieir reception were finished in l65S|
but the respective legacies being contested in the court of chatH
eery, the funds for the maintenance of the knights were not set*
tied till tlie twelfth of Charles the Second, when the sum cf J
SOOl. was ordered to be distributed among them in equal porliuw
annually. •

By the Will of Mr. Samuel Travers. who died in the yew
1728, the residue of his estates are bequeathed for the benefit
of Mven superannuated or disabled lieutenants of Lnglisb meii-o^
war, who aro lo be added to the poor knights of Windsor, and aU
lowed a house of residence and 6ol. per annum. This legacy^
like the former, was Contested in chancery many years; but at.'
length a decree was obtained in favor of the will, and seven gen*
tlcmen were appointed to receive the annuities ; though no build*
ing has yel been eiccted for their accommodation.

The J

260 BERKSKin;

The decayed building culled the Toms Housb, adjoiniDg the
east end of the chapel, was erected by Henry the Seventh, as b
mausoleum for his fiiniily ; but the Monarch soon afterwards de-
tennining on a similar design at Westminster Abbey, this struc-
ture was neglected, till Ciirdinal Wolsey obtained a grant of it
from Henry the Eighth, The prelait) intended it for his own bu-
rial-place, and begiin a sumptuous monument in the centre of
the building, but his disgrace prevented its ftimpletion ; and du-
ring the civil wars it was despoiled of all its splendid omanienrs.
The building itself was fitted up, and converted by James thp
Second into a chapel, where mass was publicly celebrated ; biit
on a splendid banquet being given by this bigotied prince to the
Pope's nuncio, the minds of the people were so inflamed with reli-
gious enthusiasm, that they attacked the fabric with infuriated
»cal, and quiiily destroyed its windows, and internal decorations.
In the ruinous state in which it was then left, it remained till the
summer of the year 1S00, when His Majesty ordered it to be re-
paired. Its future appropriation is uncertain.

The Queen's Lodge, wbere the royal family alwayi^midB
while at Windsor, is a neat modern built mansion, opposite the
south side of the castle. The furniture is extremely su]>crb, and
ihe decorations of the aparlmt^nts display much elegance. The
ceiling of the drawing-room was embellished in the year 1789,
by an artist named Haas, in a novel and {wculiar manner, from
designs by Mr. West. The figures arc executed with stained
marble dust instead of oil colors, lixcd by a durable cement.
In the centre, in an oval, is Genius reviving the arts. At the
corners are the emblematical representations of Agriculture,
Manufacture, Commerce, and Riches, with appropriate symbols.
In the intermediate compartments arc delineations of astronomy,
navigation, electricity, geography, fortification, gunnerv, che-
(uystry, and botauy, executed in imitation of basso retievo.
Tlie surrounding ornaments are festoons of oak leaves, interwoven
with roses, lilies, ^nd thistles; the arms of the Sovereign,
Pther dcyipes.

BKRKainitE. S6l

B«ror« W(! commence the dcscripiion of ihc pa-.ks, anil other
objecK in the vicinity of the cnstle, it may be expedient to men-
tion a few yiBrliculnrs of the lives of Edward TtiE Third and
Henrv the Sixth, both of whom drew their first breath
within its walls. The former of these princes was bom in th*
year 1312, and whs called lo the throne on the deposition of
hia father, at the early age of fourtecHi His sovereignty, how4
ever, was at this time but nominal, the operations of govemmeni
being directed by Isabella, his mother, and Mortimer, her para'
moiir. The criminal attachment of this pair having occasioned
the deplorable murder of Edward the Second, and the commit*
•ion of numerous acts of rapacity and ill>conduct, was at length
terminated by tlic seizure, condemnation, and death of Morti*
mer, and the imprisonment of the Quci;n. The supreme autho-
rity was now in the possession of the young Monarch, who began
to display his martial disposition, by vindicating the right of
Baliol to the throne of Scotland ; but the desolated plains of that
country atTorded not a sufficient scope for his ambition. He ad-
vanced a futile claim to the throne of France; and having ob-
tained parliamentary aid, and still further replenished his coffers
by several oppressive transactions, invaded its territory. His
first attempt being unsuccessful, he concluded a truce through
the mediation of his mother-in-law, and returned lo England,
vexed, angry, and disappointed. In an ill humour he summon-
ed his parliament, and demanded supplies; but, with a spirit of
genuine patriotism, never afterwards exerted, they refused to sup-
ply his necessities, unless lie would sign an act, by which thft
great officers of state should be rendered liable to be examined and
displaced at the commencement of every session. This agreement
was ratified in full parliament; but Edward secretly entered a
protest, that he would rcvoki*it as soon as his convenience permit-
ted ; his consent having been extorted. The prottit was after-
wards confirmed by public edict ; and within two years he ap-
pears to have regained the whole of his authority. Hi
sumed his expedition against France; and the uncommon vigoc
of his military abilities reduced that empire to the lowest ebb of
S 3 political

wisdom of bis cnnduct, and bni-

ficient finally to subjugate it. The
mphs have already Uucn deiailed;
tlie kttcr part af his life, he proved

J62 BEH

political exi.slence; but ail lb<
very of his troops, proved insu
most eminent of his varied trii
and we shall only add, that, i[
lea fortunate; many towns which he had taken being cap-
tured by the enemy, while his own army was prevented crossing
Ihc sea to their succour by ndverse winds. He expired on the
2lst of June, in the year 1377. Tlie splendid victories which dis-
tinguished the reign of this prince, have encircled it with a bril-
liant but hollow lustre. His foreign wars were ueither founded on
justice, nor directed to any salutary puq>ose; but many of hii
domestic regulations are entitled to praise. The love of glory
was his predominant passion; and to this, SHys Smollett, be
sacrificed " the feelings of humanity, the lives of his subjects, aod
the interests of his country."

Henry the Sixth was bom in the year 1421, and suc-
ceeded to the throne within nine months of his birth, amidst the
fiiri'St and most brilliant prospects that over prince possessed.
England was exclusively his own; end nearly the whole of
France was at the disposal of bb geneials. The promise of his
youth was, however, blighted, and the sun of his early hope*
set in darkness and blood. The ambition and intrigues of Car-
dinal Beaufort, Bishop of Winchester, involved his infancy in
confusion, generated animosities which embarrassed the govern-
ment, impeded the progress of the English arms, and enabled
the French to regain many of their advantages. To this pre-
late his education had been intrustt^d ; and Henry, by a natural
consequence, was rendered more fit for the government of a
cloister, than to direct the perturbed councils of a powerful
nation. At the age of twenty -three he married Margaret of An*
j«u, a woman of beauty, spirit, and singular intrepidity. Thi«
match was promoted by Beaufort, who found it necessary to
strvi^then the interest of his faction. The Qui'en readily espoused
[he Bishop's measures ; and Humphrey, the good Duke of Glou-
cester, the protector of the kingdom, was seized by the directions
of the prevailing party, accused of treason, and thrown into

pnson;

BBItlCSHtRB.

269

fSristfir, where, on the day appointed for his defence, he wa? found
dead. His death was ascribed to the Cardinal, who within mx.
weeks wns himself a corpse; his Inst hours being embittered by
the most pungent remorse. The general indignation at the Duke's
murder, was increased by the cspulsion of the English from
every part of Franco, except Calais; and extended even to the
Monarch, whose incapacity M govern Iccame d^ly more appa-
rent. His natural imbecility was increased by the trammels of
superstition! his nerveless hand was too foebk- to wield the scep-
tre, and it was distinctly perceived, that, instead of possessing
the supreme power, he was the mere inslnun*nt of a part^
who employed the authority of his name to give validity to theit
own edicts. The disatfeetion of the people augmented; and
Richard, Duke of York, the real heir to the throne, made us«
of the favorable opportunity to assert his claims. Thus was ihft
dire war* commenced, which, distinguished by the badges of the
while and red roses, drenched the kingdom with blood. Aflet
several battles, the King was taken prisoner by the Duke; and
a seeming reconciliation being effected between the contending
parties, Richard was appointed protector. This state of thinp
continued but a short time; the masculine activity of Margaret
drove him from his station, and, after an hypocritical interchange
of foi^vcness, both parties again had recourse to arms. Henry
was once more made captive; and the pretensions of the
rivals for the throne being discussed in the House of Irf)rda, ft
was determined that the succession to the crown should be veatcil
in the Duke. This plan, however, was contrary to the inclina-
lions of Mai^ret, who, with her usual intrepidity, assembled
an army, and renewed the contention for empire. In two suc-
cessive battles she defeali;d the Duke and the Earl of Warwick,
who had embraced his cause, and again released the meek -spirited
Henry. The head of Richard, who had fallen at the battle of
Wakclield Green, was exposed on the gates of York, with the
brow encircled by a paper crown, in derision of his claims; but
S 4 Margaret's

nipuitd lo have con the tiva of eighty piincn o( the (oyl)

yoad, and nearly all ihc andcDt Eiiglltb ngbility.

854 BBRKSUIBE.

Margaret'^ iniimph was of ^hort duration; for Edward, &t ddcat
son of the Duke, obtained possession of the metropolis, and, after
an appeal to ihe populace, jirocured ihe depositioi) of the King,
and hisownad^antement to the thtone. The undaunted Mar^ret
was slill determined la support her hij>b»nd's autliority, and id
& few weeks engaged the new Monarch at Towton, in Yorkshire.
The Lancuf trians, atiter a roost destructive conflict, were defeat-
ed, and lilain, by lUlward's orders, with unrt^milting fury, llie
lives of upwards of 38,000 persons wvre aacriliced in this battle;
and Henry, his Queen, and infant son, sought protection in
Scotland. The spirit of Miii^aret was still unsubdued, and she
ventured another battle with Edward's forces at Hexham, but
was oveixome, and separuti?d from the passive Henry, who, after
being concealed nearly a luelvenionth in Lancashire, was disco-
vered, and sent to the tower. In this confinement he remained
about six years, when, through a complication of strange events,
he was released by the great Warwick, and re-proclaimed ; but
the opening buds of the red rose were quickly blasted. Edward,
who had been compelled to leave the kingdom as a fugitive, re-
landed in the north with a small party of liurgundians, and having
been joined by large bodies of his friends, vanquished both tli«
Earl of Warwick and the Queen: the formur was slain at Bar-
net; hut Margaret, with her husband, and son, (who wus basely
murdered by the royal attendants,} were made prisoners. The
misfortunes of Henry advanced to their termination: lie wa^
again coramillcd to [he tower, where in a few weeks he expired.
[lis death has gcncrall} been allributcd to the Duke of Glouces-
ter; but Carte, Walpolc, and the editor of the last volumes of
Dr. Henry's History of Fngland, hive demonstrated the incon-
sistency of the evidence, and induced a strong presumption of
Ihe Duke's innocence. He died in the year U7i." Tlic cause
of his decease is supposed to have arisen from extreme grief,
• The

''"" From itii tommiiiioo of inquiry Ijiucd hy Pope A tex in d Ft ihe Sixth, on tlie
projected ononijition of Hairy, we I«m, tlnl. hy hit intcieeuion, " ihf blind
were Mid to i«xivclh«ir light; ihe deif Id heir ; and the Iuik to wilk." Theil
(alci wcie believed ertn by Hetiiy the Seventh.

BeKKSIIlKB.

96i

The Little Park, extending on Ihc east anJ north siiics
of the castle, was enlarged anil inclosed with a brick walJ by
William the Third. It contains about 500 acres of land, plen-
tifully stocked with sheep and cattle, though but few deer. The
ground on the north was laid out a^ a garden by Queen Anne,
but has since been levelled, and formi-d into a spacious lawn.
The eminence on the ettsl, which Charles tlie Second converted
into a bowling-green, has been co.nsiderably lowered in the pre-
sent reign, and the earth taken from the summit spread on the
dcclivily of the hill, which has been planted with forest trees,
and BUrrouaded with a neat paling. On the south-east is the
ranger's lodge, thu royal dairy, and the kennel for the King't
harriers. This quarter of the park was formerly ornamented
with a venerable tr(;e, immortaLzcd by the reed of the diviut
Shakespeare, ;ind since known by the appeJlation of

IIERNE'S OAK.

tSS SERKfiRIKk.

In tho Merry Wives of Windsor, Mrs. Page recount! tiM tra-
ditionary story of Heme in these lines :

Thnc ii kn old ale goes, that Herne the huotei,
Sometime a k«per hew in Windior tonit.
Doth all the winter time, U ttill of midnight.
Walk lound about an oali, with figged honU)
And there he bluta the tiee and nkca the cat^e,
And maket milch-kiiie yield blood, aod thaka ■ chain
- In a miHt hideout and drudrul minner.

, Home iasMd to iw*,bewi Ireeper^if thatWeWinrimUlMii rf

EUi^jtA, -ind bKtiiiglteesgnil^ a

■qfccted to ba diip*cedi"hui< hinHHtf iipCH

Wi^«f the itpmutt pemab^ MMUd-tbtn- 1» iiftmfMtt

Ihi tpirit bMuMd the ipot, taiA ^NHti tiUmMii HlMliaMllMl '.

bwchoMnitUB-fitfcent of actJORWupcna tha «MN(BMI

rludvioui Filitafft who hid fln appointed to meat the " Mw
Wive^" in the character of Heme's glitist.
ooh in the lait page woa exccutL-d by Mr. Anderson, fromj
dAmt^ tohen but a few tlsyx previous to its being cut d 01
■nd we are annnd by a gentleman of Windsor, who was p
■t the mokiiig of the ikelch, thai it is nn exact ddineation*
tba tiee as it then itood. Vanoue tea caddies, and othem
•rtidca mode lirom the renuiinx of tlic uiik, are preserved by m
«>f die inboUttntB at Wind&oi .

FROG iS (ORE,

Tnz byorile nddnce nf the Queen, has brcome celebi
throng the tbeguAfiletii wliich hare been occasionally (^

' Ur. Oon^'.faUiBrilbli Topography, Iatnenlii1i*t no view of th
lie had wer heen execuCcd.

t Ttic firtf fin tt rmgiauH wii given b^ the Queen on the igih of I
*79£> to-^omwoBBiilB her lirlh-d>y ; the H-cood on the 13d of May, :
iahOMrof thenUixiagEofdicPTinccu Royal with i\k Dulce of Wilt
the third on tlw Sih lif Hard), 1799, Car gnOitnde at the recovery of the M^
cea Amelia: the fourth aod hut, in commemoralion of the happy MCapeof Hit
Majoty ftom • piitol-aboi find by * IhoiUc at Dniry^Ianc Theau*i May i^b
-1800.

here by Her Majesty. It is situatt^d about half a mile east of
Windsor, and cccupics part of a very fertile valley, which di-
vides the Little Park from the Forest, whence the many line old
oaks and elms which ulill decorate the gardens, indicate it to
have been separatcil. 'Htat it received its present appellation
before Shakespeare's lime, is evident from some passage* in l>is
comedy of the Merry Wives of Windsor. This estate was
formerly in the posse'-sion of Sir Edward Walpole, and is now
the private property of Her Majesty, by whom it was purchased
of the Honorable Mrs, Ann Kgerton in 1792. Since that period it
has not only been considerably enlarged, but most mnterially im>
proved. An area of thirteen acres is laid out in a bcauliful plea-
iure garden, diversitied with a canal winding in different direc-
tions; in one pari spreading V waters before the front of the
house, and again retiring beneath the thick woods. In this
nweelly sequestered spot every thing is serene and pleasant. The
devious path, the umbrngeon* thicket, the dilapidated ruin, and
secluded lemple, all conspire to render it peculiarly interest-
ing. Exclusive of the variety of indigenous and exotic trees and
(hrubs which are scattered through the grounds, the garden i»
•'Miamented with live buildings, respectively denominated The
Gothic Temple. Ihe Ruin, The Hermilage. The Temple of So-
litude, and The Barn. The Ruin was erected from a design by
Mr, Wyatt; and being seated on the water's edge, partly immer-
sed in woods, and diversified with the creeping ivy and fractured
oail, it constitutes a tnily pictures<iue ornament, when seen
from many points of view. The Hermitage is a small circu-
lar thatched building, "iluatedin the south-w»3st comer of the gar-
d''n, and completely embowered with lofty trees. It was con-
niructed from a drawing of the Princess Elizabeth, whose ta«le
and skill* in this polite art arc fluttering encomiums on her
genius and application. The surrounding scenery is judiciously
connived.

, • A Miid of piinti, millled The Birih irtl Tiiu
citgrivnl from the brauiiful duigni of this Pnncr'i.
much delicacy, luur, and i;uiiccuitkt uf diiwing.

aph oF Cupid, luvc btm
Tbcy arc cxocuicd wiib

t66 BER&SHlEEi

contrived to assimilate with the character of ib^ ^taoe^ the view
of every distant object being excluded by trees and underwood.
The recent improvements and alterations made in the gardens
are very considerable ; and are highly creditable to the taste and
Judgment of the gentleman* who directed the operations.

The house, though not large, is a neat modem structure,
which has been much improved and beautified by Mr. Wyatt.
It is partly built with freestone, and partly cased; and is decorated
with a projecting colonnade towards the south, uniting the 4>rin*
cipal building with two uniform wings. The apartments are
furnished in a plain but peculiarly neat manner. One of them
it embellished with the original sketches by Mr. West, and
paintings by Miss Moser, that were copied r to ornament the
throne in the castle; and several^^piers are decorated with paint*
ings, and variety of drawing?.

The Great Park at Windsor reverted to His Majesty on
the death of the Duke of Cumberland, in the year 17919 since
which period it has undergone a variety of important alterations.
The principal entrance is skirted by a double row of majestic
trees, '^ whose seeming boundless continuity fills the mind with
an idea of something like infinitude ; for the line is extended not
only along the whole of a very spacious plain, but up the distant
hill, over whose summit it appears to curve, so that nothing like
termination is discemible."t The eminence here mentioned
commands a vast extent of country, of which Windsor Town and
Castle, Eton College, Datchet, Harrow, Highg^tc, Hampstead,
and Stanwell, constitute the leading features. Near this spot is
Cumberland Lodge, a spacious edifice, where the last Duke of
Cumberland and his illustrious predecessor, to whom it was given
in the year 1744, formerly resided.

The park is embellished with some rich, forest scenery, and
possesses great diversity and inequality of surface; but. the

circumstances

* Major Price, brother to Uvedale Price, Esq. the judicious and daiiicit

Commentator on the Picturesque.

f Monthly Magazine, September 2799.

circumrtanees lliroupli wliich it mori; ppcuUitrly demands atten>
tion, are the ngricultiiral experiments now making in its different
quarters tinder the direction of His .Majesty, by whom many im-
provements in the stme and genentl 6pi)earance of ihe giounds
have already been rtCfctwi. The vallios and low parts have been
cleared, to give a bulder eff^n to the woody scenes on the emi-
nences ; and several J udiejous opening have been contrived to
remove the disgusting taracness of parallel lines, and separate
the plantations that appeared heavy and formal. When the park
reverted to the King, it was found to contain about 3800 aci'es,
abounding with moss, fern, rushes, and ant-hills, and rendered
dangerous in many places by bojjt and swamps. In this state its
scanty produce hardly afforte^ulficient nutriment for 3U00 deer.
Since that period " the wet pfirls have been rendered firm and
sound by the Esses mode of under-ground draining; the rushes
weakened and destroyed, by draining and rolling; thp moss and
small hillocks extirpated by harrowing; the large ant-hills clear-
ed by the scantier; tlie fern weakened by mowing; the irregular
banks levelled; the pits Ailed up; the vallics opened; the hilli
ornamented with new plantations ; the stiff lines of trees, the
vestiges of hedge-rows, judiciously broken :" and the park, though
now reduced to ?+00 acre*, " su|>ports the same number of deer
as before, in much better health and condition.*" The remain-
ing 1400 acres have been disposed into two farms, respectively
denominated from ihe nature of the mode of husbandry by
which they were intended to bi- brought into culture.

The Norfolk Farm consists of about 1000 acres of light
soil, bordering on the extensive waste called Bagshot Heath,
hitherto considered as too barren fur cultivation, though large
tracts of similar quality have long since been rendered useful in
the south-west part of Norfolk. Half this farm has been allotted
to sheep-walks; tlie other is disposed in arable land, managed
a five-cnursc shift of 100 acres in a class, and cropped in the
lotting course: first, wheat or rye; second, vetches, rye,

and

270 SEtlKStllKE.

and potatoes; ihird, turnips; fourth, barley, or onis; fifth, clo-
ver. The ploughing is chiefly performed with ihe Norfolk plough)
and the ground, which in its former state waanot worlh renting at
above live shillings an arte, now produces crops uf mure value
than (he original foe-siniplc of the land. This: improvement in a
great measure bus been owing to the penning of the sheep on the
fallow!. ; from 6OO to SOO \Viltshire weathers being commonly kept
as a folding slock.* The irregularly-formed ground, which sur-
rounds the bcuiitiful lake called Virginia Water, has been
disposed into a. separate walk for Ryeland weathers, who are sup-
posed to be best adapted to the coarseness of the herbage. The
waste water of the lake gives motion to an overshot mill, which
has bet^n erected to grind corn for the laborers.

In breaking up some of the Htid for this farm, it was found
10 coarse and tough, that it could not be cleared in the ordinary
ivay, without uncommon expcnce atid labor. An experiment
wan therefore made, which, from the success attending it, seems
woriliy of insertion. " In the early pnjt of the winter it was
ploughed to a full depth wkh a swing plough, whose mould-board
was so placed, as tft^y the turf in an inverted position. Tbii
was well trodden with cattle, and rolled, and the sheep occasion-
ally drove over it. In the spring it wa's harrowed and cropped
with oats, which were no sooner off, than the surface was a|^n
harruwed and dragged, so aa to get as much loose earth as

pouihle

■ In(h»TrjniaeiioniofiheSoiiiny of Atii, Vol. XVII, ihe roltowlng lin.
gulir mtthod of !M<0% ihc ih«p, in hard or wet wcilher, ii deicribtd by N.
Kcni. E^q. who lupfriiiiendi ihe whole of the agricultural nubliihrncnl. "A dry
thelicrid ipot it Klfctedi ind >odt of inaidm tunh, i fool d«p, ate laid over
the tpKc of ■ very lirgr fold. It li then bedded ihinly wiib nithca, leaves o{

(led upon the clovcf in the open lieldi, gic pui into thii warmer folil, when Ui«
usual quantity othay ii given to ihcm in iackj;and every night ihey »Te 10 ptn.
ned,the fold ii fmh littered. When ihii hat been coDtinucd it Inicrvala during iIm
Winter, a layer of lime, chalk, tubhie, or ashet, tix inchot thick, it ipmd
over ihc whole mrfjee, and when ii h»i h«ted together, the whole i» lumed up
abaut iIk month of Apiil, and when raised, it makci the belt manure lh*t cut
k uicd for tumipi,"

BEKKSHIRE. 271

teMible without bringing u[) thf turf. Early in auCiimn it was sown
wiih winter votclieS) and the beginning of June ploughed cross-
wnys, when the turf turneti up quite rotti^n, and the land irai
got into a clean stale by the Itrst week in July-. Doth turnips
and wheat were afierwurds sown, and succeeded admiraUy."

The Flemish V.\b.v to mains about 400 acres, situated at
the north pstrcinily of the park, and originally intended to have
(>een managed in exact accordniiire with the system employed in
Flanders. This is a four-course shift,' yielding an altcrnaie crop
for man and beast. The soil, liowwer, being found strong and
cohesive, the plan was in part relinqubhed, for the following
more congenial mode. Fir^tyear, wheat; second, cabbage, or
clover; third, oats; fourth, beans. The arable land on this
brm is 160 acres. V

The comparative advaMfies of the laboAf hotscs and oxc*
have long divided llic opinions of expenniental agriculturalists.
The practice of His Majesty lias induced him to decide in favor of
axen. which have been found " to answ|»o well in his different
brms, pBrk$, and gardens, that no^^phe is now kept" for the
purposes of husbandry. The oxen k^^on the fcrms, aai in the
park, are 200. I'orty arc yearly purchased as succession oxen ; 40
sre fatted and »old ; and ISO ai-e under work. The absurd prac-
tice of coupling the latter with jokes is abandoned, and collars
only are used : in this stale tlidflnp is more free, bikI their labor
pcrfornicd with much greater ease. The kinds employed are suit*
ed to the soil and business. On the light soils, the Devonshire sort
arc used; on the strong and heavy, the Herefordshire; for cart-
ing, harrowing, and rolling, the G lamorgansiiire. The working
oxen arc mostly divided into teams of six; and as one of that
oumber is daily rested, no ox labors more than five days in the
week. This tri'atment enablos the animal to retain his strength
with the ordinary keep. Harder labor and highcbfced would be
injurious; for the QSture pfthoo.'t will not admit of his being
kept in con4ilion> like a hone, ariiticially, by proportioning !iii
food to increased exertions, Tlieir summer food is only a few
vetches, and what they obtsin from the Icasowos or coarse mca-

27Z

BEBKStllRK,

(tows : in w'inlcr they have cut hay and wheat str&w, one tl
the latter being mixed with two thirds of the former.

Besides the improvements thitt have been clieeted in the park
d'ith respect tci agriculture, seversil valuable plantations have
been made on the high grounds; and the natural beauty of the
scenery increased, by the grand masses of wood which begin to
overrun the eminences. Many parts display a pleasing variety
of hill, valley, wood, and water; where the picturesque and
romantic are the prevailing characteristics. From some points
the views axe peculiarly intrrestinj; ; their general composition
bearing a striking resemblance to ihe celebrated scenery of the
New Forest. Virginia Wfltar terminates with a cascade executed
from designs by Paul Sandby, Esq. This was formed with
large masses of stone, obtained Voni the sandy soil of Bagsbot
Heath, by boring tff^rious depths. 'Sbese arc placed with some
degree of la^te and judgment, though the disposition of the
whole is rather stitf and formal. The surplus waters flow over
the lop, and arc brokci ^nt o several streams by jirojecliug stonrs.

Beaumokt Lodc^^Bb seat of Henry XiriRiths, Esq. is
situated on an easy asceiifTon the banks of the Thames, at Old
Windsor. The house has been much improved by the present
proprietor, who has heightened the centre, and ornamented it
with correspondent wings. In the front is a portico, consist-
ing of six columns and two^fcaslers, which rise from four
pedestals, two shafts springing from each base. The light and
elegant balcony under the portico commands a pleasing view
of tlic Thames and adjoining country. The grounds art extcn-

Ncar the upper road at Old Windsor is Felling Plac«,
the scat of James Bonnell, Esq, The house and grounds were
improved by Mr. Pigot, its former possessor, who gave the
estate its prcsSBt name in compliment to his uncle. The present
owner has enlarged the grounds with two acres of common land
purchased of the parish, and made some new walks and planta-
tions. The gardens are oraamented with a dairy, grotto, saloon,
and hermitage.

St.

. XERKSHIRB. 373

St. Leokakd's Hill, in Windsor Forest, seems to have
b«en a Roman station, many antiquities having been found on it
at different times. In the y^r 170j a hr.iss lamp was discovered
here concealed under a stone, tuttetber witli two or three celts, a
spear head, two pieces of trumpets, some coins, earthen pots,
and other things. The lamp was presented by Sir Hans Sloane
to the Antiquarian Society, and has since bceu chosen for theic
crest. Many coins of Vespasian, Trajan, and the Lower Kmpiret
found on this hill, y.-etc purchased by the above society in 1725.
The elegant villa on this eminence, belonging to General Har-
court, was formerly called Gloucester Lodge, it having been
greatly improved by the Duke of Gloucester, on his marriage
with the Countess of VValdegrave, by whom it was built. The
pleasure ground and lawns, consisting of about 75 acres, wero
purchased, together with the house, in the year 1781, foi
10,0001.

SUNNING-IULL.

The small village thus denominated, it pleasantly situated in a
part of the forest bordering on Ascofrfeath. The salubrity of
its mineral waters has been celebrated in a poem written by the
late Dr. Mcyrick; and the wells where the healing draught is
obtained have occasionally been fret|uented by much company.
The church may be regarded u a specimen of our earlier
parochial churches, consisting of a nave, and small chancel
divided from the nave by a square belfry tuwer.* In the' vicinity
of this village are several fli-gant residences ; among the princi-
pal is Selwood I'akh, the seal of James Sibiiald, Esq. This
estate consists of about 300 acres, the principal part of which
are laid out as a Ferme Omie, or ornamental farm. A fine
ride, of about four miles in extent, embraces the principal part
of the scenery, which is richly diversilicd with stately trees, and
a large piece of water. The house is a handsome modem
building, situated on a rising ground, and was erected by the

Vol. I. ' T present

Sm Gougb'i Additi

[0 Cliadtn.

?74 BEilKSiriRE. .

prwcnt inheritor (Wun dpsigns by Mr. Robert Mitchell, on wtioM
taste and skill in architecture il rcfieci.i considenble credit. 4t
is built with farirk, and covered with compmilion. E«cb front
il decorated with a portico of lofty composite columns. The in-
terior is commodious, and fitted up with peculiar elegance. The
CRtrance front commands an extensive prospect over a richly
cultivated vallev, bounded by the Surrey hilU; whiUi the other
front embraces a much richer tract of scenery, in which ihc
majestic forest of Windsor constitutes the prominent featiue.*

MISCELLANEOUS.

Amo:iq the variety of singular tenures by which estates were
held in th(- days of teudal lyrannj', was that of taking care of
the King's mistresses; nor was this an uncommon service; for
several manors, in ditferent parts of the kingdom, were only se-
cured to their possessore by similar customs, Al Bockhnmpton,
in this county, half a i/ard-land was held by the tenure of keep-
ing six dtmieli, i. c. tBiortt,-[ at the King's charge. In the Mine
place tn'o Aiihs of (land were held by the servici: of keepings
kennel of the King's liarricra. The extreme profligacy denoted
by the first kind of tenure, has induced some writers to represent
it as having been misunderstood. They observe, that the L«lin
Kord Mtrrlrktt was used in. former times to designate luun-
dresses, and as such should be translated in the pitssagcs in
(fuestion. 1'hcrc is, however, full proof that persons of the latter
description were called Lotricn ; J and that the King's lioushold
was in former times Btlcndcd by Mcretrlces, according to the real
meaning of the term, is evident from the rules devised for llie
establishment of good order in the houshold of Henry the Eighth.
One of them is to this purport: " 'ilic Knight Manhal shall

Uke

* Vicwi of iheic (wo fconti, wUh ■ fnund plin, add i pcnpectiTC reprc-
iMUiiim of ui cicgtnl mudc gilleiy, ace engnvid ia ■ haodioine ■ittnlcciinl

puWicnion, by Mr. Miichril. •

+ Sec Btckwiih'i Frigmi

filBESHIBZ.

take special care that all such unthrifty and common WOtaai as
follow the court be banished."

The humorous custom which formerly prevailed at Enbonw,
near Newbury, respecting widows, is no longer observed. It u
said to be compounded for by a fine; but this is uncertain, the
court rolls being silent on the subject. The custom w» thbi
The widow of every copyhold tenant was permitted to retain
the possession of his lands, as long as she continued sole and
chaste; (dum sola et casta fuerit:) but if she wat guilty of in-
continence, the estates were forfeited ; nor could they be restored*
unless she mounted a black ram, and went into the next
court held for the manor, riding backwards, and repeating a
quaint foimula of words.

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.

jL HOUOH the whole of Bnckinghamshire, at the time of the
Jtotnan inyasion, appears to ha^e been in the poss^on of the
Cattieucrlakx, there is reason to believe that its western
parts hady at no very distant period, been peopled by the Air-
CALiTESy whose name is apparently derived from the term Uck-
diiwySf or the Inhabitants of High Grounds, thus called from
their relative situation to the Toofmt, the appellation of the
tribe residing in the low grounds, near the riven Thame and
Thames.

This county was included by the Romans in the division named
Flavia Casariensis. After their departure, it became the
theatre of many battles and revolutions, and was at length con-
stituted a part of Mercia, to whose monarchs it remained subject
during the continuance of the heptarchy.

The origin of its name has given birth to various conjectures.
Camden imagines that it was derived from the Saxon word
Bucken, indicative of the beech trees with which it formerly
abounded, and which are still plentiful in many parts of the coun-
ty. Those who have controverted this derivation, affirm, that its
etymology may be traced to the term Buecen, Bucks, or Deer ;
its forests having anciently afforded sustenance to thousands of
those animals. Spelman, and Brown Willis, incline to the lat-
ter opinion.

Buckinghamshire is bounded on the north by Northampton-
shire ; on the cast, by the counties of Bedford, Hertford, and
Middlesex; on the south, is Berkshire, and a point of Surrey ; and
on the west, Oxfordshire. Its size has been variously estimated;
but the most correct computation has been given in the general
view of its agriculture; wherein it is said to be 45 miles in length,

eighteen

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 3^7

eighteen in breadth, and 138 in circumfrreiw:e. It eontwn*
about 51^,400 acri^s, 8 hundred:), l6 market towns, 185 parishes,
abuut 14,500 houses, and 04,000 inhabltarits. Iti limits are
mostly artificial; the river Coin only bounding a small portion of
the east side, and the Thamci separating it Irom Berkshire and

The face of the county is much varied. The southern parti
are occupied by the Cbiltcrn Hills and iheir appendages. Theaa
eminences are chiefly composed of chalk inlermixed with flints;*
and though very inferior to ihc northern district with respect to
richness of soil, have been rendered extremely productive by
the great attention given to the cultivation and improvement of
the land. The prolific P'ak of Aylrsbnry spreads through the
middle of the county, and furnishes a rich pasturage to vast
quantities of cattle, its amazing fertility being chiefly employed
in the support of the dairy and grazing systems. The more
northern parts are divcrsiticd with gentle sand hills, entering froni
Bedfordshire,

The effect of circumstances on human habits is forcibly
exemplified by the conduct of ihe fanners who reside in the
above divisions of the county. In the vicinity of the ChitlerD
Hills, where the soil is light, and inimical to production without
much labor, the most sedulous care is bestowed on the business
of husbandry. Every variety of materials, that will eithcf
constitute or increase manure, is carefully collected, and
applied with judgment. Improved modes of culture are readily
adopted, and the general management of the land is praise-worthy
and Judicious. In the Vale of Aylesbury, and the more north-
em division of the county, this picture is reversed. The astonish-
ing produce of the tueadows rendering exertion less neccssaryt
13 ^ the

* Thctoil being very ilullaw, and the graundi deviled, iht jSnIi necra to b«
aistUul;) aeaitary w keep ihe mff>cc main, tni protect the giun from the ido.
powerful efiecl oF [be lun. Some wrilcci have iflinned, chat the firmeri in.
ctfectuiUy endeavoui lo cleMue the loil of iheie iioiim but ihii ii a mistake,
u the huibandman, in nimy cuei, would ijtbii inticaje than diminiih tb(ir
nunbcr.

278 BVCKINGHAMSDIRE,

the fanner has suflered bis indolpnce to overpower his reuon,
and, Content with the evening mist and the morning dew,* neg-
lects the means of improvement, and turns a deal' ear to ail-
ments whose instructive tendency might operate to array h»
fields in tenfold verdure.

The soil of thi* county is principally composed of rich loam,
strong clay, chalk, and loam upon gravel. Its application in the
Chiltcm Hislrirt is to the growth of wheat, barley, oats, beans,
and sainlfoin ; the northern division, as we have already intimated,
is chiefly applied to pasture, and meadow, with a very smalt
proportioji of arable. The great i|uantities of butter annually
made on the dairy farms, are mostly purchased by Uie London
dealers, who contract for it half-yearly. The average weight,
produced weekly from eaih cow, is eight pounds (sixteen ounces
to a pound) in summer, and six pounds in winter, in some of
the dairies a very useful machine, called a raill-chuiii, has
lately ^^" introduced, by which the fatiguing operation of churn-
ing is greatly facilitated, the mill being woriced by a horse. In
other dairies a barrel-chum is used, with two handles, turned by
two men, who make from six to six score pounds of butter at
one churning. The skim and butter-milk is made use of to
fatten swine. In the neighbourhood of Midmenham, Great
^nd Little Hampton, &c. many calves are suckled ; and at
Aylesbury, and its vicinity, great attention is given to the rear-
ing of ducks, to supply the markets of the metropolis.

For

■ " So licb md ttniic ii the wil aboui Aylalmry imd BuckiogbuD, Ibatwc
were uauied it wai coiuldcicd i diigrace tg i fitmer to tutlcr a heap of inniuie
to he Kcn It the «id of hit field, to plough In nraighl iiaa, to diuucb in mf

ovci hu mcadMr-" S« View of Lhe Agriculture of Bucki, Thi. iiaiemem
b coiroboraied by the fo1lc>wiii|; pusage from the umc work. " In the diilrict
now under eoaridtriiion, large iracti poueu id lueh a high dtRree iht advan-
Ijge of obtaining water, that the farmer can flow hii grnundi when and wl«re
be pleUKi, brooki and rivulets rnnning (hraugh the greater part of these fine
mnidowj, with few or no milltlo inletrupt or eoniro! him in the fteo appli-
Clllon of their fructifying slreami; yn, eicepting in the Dcighbaurhood of one
or two of the papei-milli, there ii scarcely an acre of luid wateied ihioi^hoBt
the county."

For ploughing, and other laborious operations of agriculture,
bones itre preferred to oxen. The latter have frequently been
tried, but the flintiness of some parts of the wnl, and very heavy
ijuality of others, have caused thg farmer U decide in favor of
the horse. In the soulliern parts, the swing and high wheel
ploughs are chiefly used, and drawn by four horses, two abreast.
In the northern division, the loose handle swing oiid low wheel
ploughs, worked by five or six horses in a line. Tfie progress of
figricultura! improvement is considerably checked on many
estates, by the restrictive conditions on which they are leased;
the tenants being confined to two or three crops and a fallow,
*ith a prohibition to the growth of clover, and green food. The
e principally marl, peat-ash, yard and rabbit's dung.
e of the strong and cold soils, hair and hoofs are strewn
with much advantage. Soot and ashes are equally beneficial to
wheat and young clover. The generality of farms are from
60!. to 2501. a year : some amount to 5001. and two or three
to 10001. lu the agriculturul view of the county, the common
fields were estimated at 91,900 acres, but a large proportion
has since been enclosed. The waste lands are but inconsider-
able, their extent not being more than tiOOO acres, the greatest
part contained in the heaths of Ivor, Ftdmer, Stoke, and
Wycombe. The southern division of the county produces large
quantities of fine beech : near a sixth part of the land between
the road 10 Oxford, and the Thames, is supposed to be covered
ftith that wood. On Wavendon Heath (now the property of
the Duke of Bedford) several flourishing plantations of Scotdi
e been made since its enclosure about the year 1778. In
the coppices 'on Whaddon Chace are numbers of fine oak and ash
trees. The chief manufactures are those of papej- and lace.
The latter aiTords employmeut for nearly all the lower class of
females in the county.

The principal rivers are the Ouae and the Thame. The Ousi
enters Buckinghamshire on the western side, passes Water Strat-
ford, and flows in u devious course to Buckingham ; thence wind'
ing to the north tltrough a rich tract of meadow land, pursues its
T4 «ay

S80 BUCKIV09AM8H1BS*

way to Stony Stratford, Newport-Pagnell, and Olney; soon
afterwards, turning suddenly to the east, it leaves the county
near Brayfield.

The Ouse, ilow winding through a level pltin

Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,

Conducts the eye along its sinuous course

Delighted.

Cowpxr'sTask.

The Thame rises near the borders of the county in Hertford*
shire, and flowing through the Vale of Aylesbury from east to
west, receives the waters of several smaller streams, and enters Ox-
fordshire near Thame, The interchange of traffic has been mudi
ftx;ilitated of late years by the Grand Junction Canal, whidi
enters this county near Woolverton, and running eastward, goef
within a mile of Newport-Pagnell ; thence flowing to the south,
it passes Fenny Stratford, Stoke Hammond, Linslade, and
Ivinghoe, into Hertfordshire, near Bulbourne. From a branch
of the canal at Old Stratford, a cut has been made to Buck-
ingham, and another from Bulbourne to Wendover.

Buckinghamshire is in the diocese of Lincoln, with the ex»
Ception of six parishes belonging to the See of Canterbury, and
four to the diocese of XA>ndon. It sends fourteen members to
parliament; viz. two for the Shire, two for Buckingham, tii'O
for Aylesbury, two for Wycombe, two for Amersham, two for
Wendover, and two for Marlow ; pays twelve parts of the land*
tax, provides the militia with 560 men, and is in the Norfolk
circuit.

BUCKINGHAM

Was chosQDi on the division of the kingdom into shires, to give
name to the county. It appears to have been a town of consi-
derable antiquity, being mentioned by Bishop Kennet, as' the
spot near which the Roman general, Aulus Plautius, surprised
and routed the Britons under the command of Caractaous and

Togodumnusy

BUCSIN0HAU5H

381

Togodumnus, the sons of Cunobdin. la the early Saxon times
it becr&me cekbratcd sa the butial-place of the infant saint. Rum-
baJd, who was born at King's Sotton, in Northamptonshire, and
reported to have Mvci but three days, during which pfriod ho
professed himself a Christian, performed many miracles, and,
on his death, bequeathed his body to be depnsiteil in the church
ever, afler it had been one year at King's Sutton, and another
at Bmcktcy. This tale, generated by cfaft, and credited by lig-
ance, proved a source of considerable revenue to Buckinaham,
where several inns were erected for the accommodation of the
ncrous pilgiims whom supers [itious credulity induced to make
offerings at his shrine. A Hagacious personage of [be last cen-
tury- is said to have identilied his coffin!!

In the year 9I8, Eilward the Cider, according to ibe Saxon
Chronicle, resided here for a short time, and caused two forU
to be built and garrisoned on each side the river, to repel the
incurtiions of the Danes, against whom he shortly aftcrwardii ad-
vanced, and compelled thero to sue for peace. In <)'}l the town
was ravaged by the Danish soldiers, and again in 1010, when hav-
ing plundered the adjacent countri', they retreated hither to se-
re their ill-gotten treasure. At the lime of the Norman Conquest,
11 stated by Brown Willis to have been the only borough in tha
county ; yet it was then but an inconsiderable place, and only
taxed for one hide. In the reign of Edward the 'I'hird, its im-
portance was increased by that prince making it & mart for
wool ; but the trade being removed to Calais, it again declined,
and in the S7th of Henry the Eighth was enumerated among the
decayed cities and towns, for whose relief an act of parhoment
wa3 then made. About this period the assiw*, which hud usu-
ally been held here, were removed to Aylesbury, through tha
interest of Sir John Baldwin. The misfortunes of Buckingham
■e completed by a dreadful lire, which occurred in iheyeat
1724, when, out of 38? houses, 138 vivre entirely consumed,
besides several oiit-houses, and raanuliicturies belonging to pre-
mises that escaped the conflagiation. The damage on this occasion
estimated at 4:0,0001. Since this accident its trade has in a
unaU

S8S BUCKXirGHAMiHI»B*

small degree revived, and part of the county business brought
back, as is testified by the following inscription over the goal door.

The Right Honorable Richard Grenville Temple,

Lord Viscount Cobham»

Caused this Edifice to be erected at his own Expence,

For the Use of this Town and County ;

The Summer Assizes being restored to this Place,

And fixed here by Act of Parliament

In the year 1758.

"Hie most conspicuous and principal ornament of Buckingham,
b the church, which stands proudly exalted on the summit of an
artificial mount, anciently occupied by a castle. This stately
fabric was began in 1777) and completed in four years, at the
expence of about 70001. the greater part of which was paid by
the late Earl Temple, whose liberality on this, and several other
occasions relative to the town, is a frequent theme of panegyric
with the old inhabitants. Besides his Lordship's present towards
defraying the expcnccs of this building, the townsmen raised
SOOOl. by life annuities, the interest of which was charged on the
poor rates.* The church is built of stone, and has a handsome
square tower attached to its south-west end, ornamented with
pinnacles, embrasures, and a light tapering spire, which rises
to the height of 150 feet from the ground. The interior
is constructed on the same plan as Portland Chapel in
London. A large gallery, supported by Doric columns, projects
from three of its sides. From the gallery rises twelve more
columns of the Ionic order, sustaining a richly decorated ceiling.
The seats are all of oak wainscotting. The altar is embellished
with a tolerable cjood copy of Raphael's much celebrated picture
of the Transfiguration, given to the parish by the Marquis of
Buckingham. About 200 yards south-west of the church is the
burial-ground ; where a small chapel, or room, has been erected

for

* This ux, and the distresses occasioned among the lower classes by the leverity
of the times, have augmented the poor rates to ass. in the pound.

for the accommodation of the clergyman at funerals; no in-
terments being permitted In or near ttie present church, nor
funeral ceremony atlowcil to be performed. The area sur-
rounding the church is taid out in a pleasant walk, planted with
trees, and enlivened with a view uf the serpentine course of the
Ouse, which wind? round three tides of the town.

The Town-Hall is a lar^e brick building, surmounted with a
pit swan, which is the borough arras. The principal floor is
reserved for ihe use of the magistrates when they hold the parish
court, every three weeks ; and sessions, half yearly. The houses
arc chiefly bricki irregularly scattered over a large extent of
ground on the side and bottom of a hill. The laboring inhabi-
tants are principally employed in agricultural pursuits, or lace'-
making. As the latter manufiicture requires but little in((enuiiy,
and cheap materials, there is scarcely a house or female in the
town unprovided with a lace-pillow, parchments, bobbins, pmps,
pins, thread, and other requisites. The profits of this businesi
to the makers, depends on iheir faciltty of execution ; their
daily earnings are therefore difti'rent. Some women can earn
from eighteen pence to two shillings a day ; others cannot
get more than one shilling m the same time. Their receipts,
however, have lately experienced a considerable drawback, t
manufactory having been established at Nottingham, in which the
lace Is made with machiacri/, and bcin^ quicker executed, ii
retailed at a less price : yet neither its quality nor workmanship
is so good as that made by hand. Ths

• Inallihciccounu wehiverad of ButkiDghimihirt, it ii micd ihat fciM
lice ii [he chief njinuficture ; but lorae of [be oldcit malun, whom, wiion.
■lilted, weie tnully ignoiinl of ihe tetn. The principal (ort made it liiM
■hrrad.lKC, black and white: iha (nnatt commonly vorked with a Ftciieb>
gimind, at perfect diimond iquarciT the latter ^eneially cxccuied wiih ■
loundiih hole, called itw poinl-gcourid. The maker ii fumuhed >»i<)i a rnund
pdlow, on whichailipaf pirchment [> filed, pcrForated with* great oumlm
of hola, (ortetpOTidcni to the psltdtn required lo In executed. TheK hotmit
filed wuh pini, wliich are placed ami dtiplaced >s the Inbbint lie moved, or
tlitchci fifliitied. The thiad it liicd an ihe top of tmiU bobbini, or gimpi t
the firil aie uied in making line laca ind giound ; lad the Utter (or coaiK Ivc,
lo work in Uk fiowen, tea.

384 BVCKIHGnAMSHtRB.

The corporalion in the reign of Edward the Third consisted
of a mayor and three bailiffs ; but the charier by Queen Mary
vests the goverhmeat of the town in a bailiff and twelve bui^es-
ses, whose titles were altered by Charles the Second into those of
mayor and aldermen ; but the former charter was afterwards
restored, and the maf;istrales are still entitled bailiiT and burges-
ses. It does not appear that this town sent members to Parlia-
ment previous lo ihe 36th of Henry the Eighth, though three
pei'sons were sent as early as the llth of Edward the 'I'hird to a
council of trade held by that Prince at Westminster. The right
of eleciion is vested in the bailiff and twelve burgesses, The inha-
bitants are divided into several religious sects: the Presbjterians,
Quakers, Methodists, and Socinians, have each a place nf wor-
ship. The free school was founded about I j-10, by Isabel Den-
ton, who bequeathed a small legacy for a school -master, SiC.
The endowment has been increased by several donations ; and a
Sunday school has lately been established for the children of the
poor. The extcnl of the parish is computed at 3800 acres.

About one mile east of Buckingham is a lilllc village called

MAIDS MORETON,

So denominated, according to Brown Willis, from its moorish
situation, and the daughters of Lord Pcover, two maidens who
built the church, about the year 1450. This fabric consisl^ of
a nave, a chancel, with a small vestry on the south side, and
a curiously constructed tower at the west end. The windows arc
in the Urge handsome style of Norman architecture, and display
several fragments of painted glass, bat are loo much injured lo be
intelligible. The roof of the chancel, the porches, and the
tower entrance, are highly decorated with light and elegant
specimens of gothic architecture, particularly the north porch,
which is supported with six small pillars attached to the wdo
walls.

The following memorandums appear in the church register.
" Anno 1642. This year the cross, which had like with iU tall
to have beat out the brtuos of kim that did it, was cut off the

TOP

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. S85

to^rtEe steeple by the soldiers, at the command of Colonel
Purufoy, of Warwickshire." " Anno l653- This year came in
force an act of the usurper Cromwell, that children ought not
lo be baptized, and about marriages by justices of peace. But it
M here observed, that not one in this parish complied with it, hut
christened the children in tiie church ; nnd no persons bedded
before they were solemnly wedded in the church," This parish
contains about !)00 acres, principally disposed in unenclosed ara<
ble land, culled Moreton Fields. Tho soil is a stiff heavy cUy.

STOWE,

The chief flmament of the county, and principal Seat of
'Oeoi'gc' Grenvillc Nugent Temple, Marnuis of Buckingham.
'Tfle earliest account of ihc manor is contained in Domesday-
book, which stales, that in the reign of Edward the Confcsaor,
'tis value was 60s. and that it was held by Robert Doyly and
BOger Ivory of the Bishop of Baieux, When the bishop was
ftUpossesticd of his lands in the year lOSS, this manor was ob-
ifuncd Jjy the ab6ve persons for themselves, and afterwards di-
^ded betifeen them. Stowe was retained by Doyly, who founded
i^church in his castle at Oxford, and endowed it with this domain;
twt iin the rcmoviil <•{ his foundation in 1129, lie bestowed it on
canons of Oseney Abbey, in whose possession it remained
Vn the capricious llenry the Eighth, on the dissolution of the
nligious houses, erected the abbey into a calhedral, and settled
1^ on the new bishop; but the foundation being removed to Christ
'Church, it was given by Eklward the Sixth to that college.
'firownWillis, in his History of Buckingham, states, that it wasaf-
'«rds, on a vancancy of the see of Oxford, granted by Queen
^lizabeth to three gentlemen, who first leai^d, and then con-
'jl9yvi it to John 'I'emple,* Est}, in the year 1592; but we have

been

.- • Th. TcmpU (imily dedurc (heir irutetnil deicml from Lsofric, Eiil of
McTcii, Jixy appeal lo have bc<n firii wuUd ii TcmpU' Hall, iii Leicanei-
Ulirc; tlioujh they poiimtd limJi ui thii (eual)-u urly u the ic^^ti of Heary

286 BUCKIKGHAMSIIIKE.

been a^surcil by the pirsenl noble possessor, Uint it was par-
chased into this family by Peter Temple, Es<]. in 1560; and ihat
the original mansion was soon aiterwarrts erwied by thai geaile-
man. Sir Peter Temple, a distant descendant, enclosed Bbont
SOO a<:res of ground tor a park, wliich he stocked with deer from
Wicken Park in Northamptonshire, Sir Richard, the next inheri-
tor, rebuilt the manor-house. On his death the estate devolved
to his son, who was created Baron Cubham in 1714, and VL«-
count Cubham in I7I8t with a collateral remainder of both ti-
tles to his second sister Hester, wife of Richard Grenville, Esq.
of Wotton, in this county. Lord Cobham died in 1749, and
was succeeded by the above lady, who was created Countess
Cobham a month after her brotiier's decease. Tbu» the family of
the Grcnvilles obtained possession of the mansion, estate, and
titles. The present owner was created Slarquis of Buckingham
in the year I7S+.

Stowe, when beheld at a distance, appears like a vast grove,
interspersed with columns, obelisks, and towers, which appa-
rently emerge from a luxuriant mass of foliage. The gardens
obtained their distinguished celebrity from the alterations efiected
by Lord Cobham, under whose direction the groves were planted,
the lawns laid out, many of the building? erected, and the corri-
dors and wings added to the north front of the house. The
gardens were began when an atfecicd regularity was the mode;
when straight paths, canals, avenues and fountains, were con-
sidered as the greatest beauties ; and the formalities of art studi-
ously displayed in every shape of monstrous deformity.

The iiiffering eye inveited nilure ua ;
Treei cul to itiuici, itatua thick U met.

Port.

Slowe partook of the general incongruity, and the graceful
variety of nature was tortured into stiffness and absurdity. This
state of things, however, is now changed. The gardens have
been altered with the times, and the natural beauty of the situ-
ation allowed to display itself.

The

DUCKING UAMSHIRZ. M?

The first professional artist employed to lay out the grountb
ffa^ Bridgcman, wliose pUni and drawing? of their features at
that period arc still in the posHCssion of tlie Marquis. Some of
the absurdities left by Bridgeman were removed by Kent, who
was consulted in the double capacity of architect and gar-
dener, and to this " Father of modern gardening" is Stowc
indebted for many of its distinguished ornaments. " Mahomet,"
fays Mr.Walpolc, "imagined an Elysium ;butKent created many."
Several oilier amateurs and artists" haic successively directed
altemtions here,, and most of them have left some specimens
of their respective partiahties. While tliu formal mode of garden-
ing prevailed, Stowe led the fashion, and many aped its incon-
gruities; yet, to the honor of the taste and judgment of this
country, the formalities of system arc nearly abolished ; and
nature, ever beautiful, and ever varying, is justly considered as
tlieproper archetype to be imitated in modem pleasure groundt.
Some of the most elegant and correct writers have classed the
varieties of scenery under three peculiar and distinct characters;
the beautiful, the picturesque, and tlic sublime. Few domains
in the kingdom can boast the possession of all these characters;
yel the Mo first, and a very considerable portion of the latter,
may be found at Stowe, where ttiv beautiful is apparent in itj
parterres, elegant buildliiss, and flower gardens ; the pic-
turesque,

* The cdctinteil Liuncclot Brown wai originally employed here iai very
bumble lilualion, whence he role by dcgnsi to be head girdencr. In which
■tilion he cQDtinued till 1750. Ii ii generally luppoied, thai hii tint ipecimeni
of laniitapi gardenmg were made uSiowe; but wc arc asiinrei thai Loid Cob-
ham [caricledhimloihe kitchen ladflowrr garden. Though hit Lordihip would
not permit him lo try eKpciimeiKi on hii own groundi, yd he recommended
him lo ibe Duke of Grafton, al W>kt(ie]il Lodge in Nordiampioniliire, when
he directed the forming of a large lake. Thit laid the foundation of hit Time
and lortunei for the undertaking being succeufully executed, he wai present.
td, through (he medium of Lord Cobhim, with ihe honorjble lituation of
head girdeiwtalWindwr, and Hampton Court. He now became very popular,
ind hit advice wai i^ularty lought by ihoiegentlonen who were diipoacd to
make aliiraliont in their p»iki and pleaiuic groundi. Previous 10 leaving
Slawc) h* (nanicd a young woiuiu of the vjllige, aamid Mary Holland,

luresque, though not a prominent feature, can easily be seen in
Ibc embowered groves, grrjito^, anil beads of ihc lake; and the
grand, bordering on sublimity, certainly Mongs to itx noble
maoiton, and the extenKive views which it comnuuids, vrliere

The first arcbilettuml object which attracts attention is a
CoaiNTiUAM Arch, or Gatrway, 60 fett high by 60 wide,
erected on the brow ol a hill, one mile from the south front of the
houw, aflor a design of Thomas Pitt, Lord Curaelford. The princi-
pal approach is cMiducted through this building, where a graiul
di!>play of the mansion, gruves, temples, obelisks, and water,
are at once presentui to tlici admiring spectator. At a sbort
distance from the arch is one of the entrances to the gardens.
ThcHe extensive and highly decornted grounds contain about four
hundred acre«, divcrsilied with a great number of distinct scenes;
«ech diiitingiiiKhcd with taste and fancy, and each having a
complete diameter of its own, independent of other objects.
The whole is enclosed wjthin a, sunk fence, or Ha. ! Ha !*
which extends nearly fenir niilc^ in circumference, and is
accompanied by a broad grave] walk, skirled with rows of
lofty elms. Tliis path leads to many of the buildings, and to
several intcresliog scenes, admitting occasional peeps into the
surrounding park, and views of the dJsUnt country. Kear
this entrance are two Ionic pavillions, originally designed by
Kent, but since altered by Signior Qorra, architect to the
late King of Sardinia. In the front of these buildings the water
spread's into a considerable lake, which divides itself into two
branches, and retires through beautiful vallies to the east and to

Ihtt

* Mr. Walpolc conjoclura that ihii kW of boundary wat first plinned b]r
Brldgmuo, who dalroycd the impiiioning wtlli, and lee in viewt of the
diilanl country, by meafl* oEthii foiie; which obUiiKtl the name o( Hat
Ha ', (rom the lurprlx ciprcucd by (he commnn people, wIkd tbcy (bund thtir
progiUs unexpectedly checked by the conualcd barticr.

BVCXIHGnAKSIlIRK.

289

nidat a mass o
and again i
lery.

the nortli. The upper end is concealed

here it falls over some artificial ruins, and again extends its
broad bosom to reflect the variegated scenery. The path west'
ward leads to a rude pile of building, calW the HermitaOE,
and also to the Temple of VxstJB, which was designed and
executed by Kent. This is a square building, decorated with
Ionic columns, and connected by semicircular arcades to a.
pavilion at each extremity. The Queen's Statite is situated
on the side of a hill, and completely enveloped with trees. The
figure of Queen Caroline is supported by four Ionic columns.
Hence the path leads to the Boycott Pavilions, designed
by Vanburgh : and the principal entrance gate, designed by
Kent. Returning towards the house, we discover theTEUPLE of
Baccuits, built from a design of Vanburgh, whence the view is
particularly beautiful. In tlie centre of a large lawn, encircled
with trees, is the Rotunda, raised upon ten Ionic columns,
n the centre with a statue of Bacchus. Beyond
this the lake spreads its pellucid waters, reflecting the Temple of
Venus, and its richly wooded scenery.

These are the principal objects on the south and west sides of
the garden. On the .east is the entrance to the Eli/sivm TieMs,
where the figures of heroes, poets, and philosophers, seem to
justify the name. This part is watered by a small rivulet, which
flowing from the grotto, passes through a. valley ornamented with
a number of fine old trees, and then empties itself into the lake.
The valley includes some of the most charming views and object*
in the whole district. A Doric Akch, decorated with the sia-
5 of Apollo and the Muses, leads from the parterre into tha
Elysium Fields. This building in situated on an eminence, and
r Royal Highness Princess Sophia Amelia, who,
visiting Stowe in the year 17661 was complimented with soma
s by the late Counters Temple. Through the Arch the Pal-
adian Bridge is seen, and a castellated Lodge built on the oppo-
lite hill. On the right is the Temple or Friendihip; on the

Vol. L U (eft

XUCKIMOHAMBHII

kftare the Temples of Avcie.vt Virtue and o
Worthies; the one in an elevated situatiua, ihe other near
die nater's edge. The three latter buildings arc decorated with
statues and busts of those persons «ho have been most distin*
guiahed for military, moral, aiid literary merit. By placing
here the meed of valor, and paying a just tribute to departed
genius, the character intended to be given to the spot is poeti-
cally expressed, and the idens excited, teach us to respect merit,
and emulate the actions which lead to fame.

The Temple of Ancient Virtu* is a circular building,
of the Ionic order, embowered " within the thicket's gloomy
shade," and admirably adapted for pensive nicditatiun. The
dome is supported by sixteen columns. The inside is decorated
with four statues by Schecnnaki^r. Beneath them are these appo-
site inscriptions, written by Geoige Lord Lyttletoo.

Lrcuaeos,*

Qui summo cum consilio, inventis legibus,

Omnemque contra comipteULm muniiis opiimc,

Pater Patriw,

LibertHtero Gnnissimam

El mores sanclissimos,

£xpuhacum divitiis avaritii, luxuria, lil>idine.

In multa sxcula

Civibiis suis instil uit.

• The Imeiipiioni tuve b«a that [r»njl>ted!

KCCI, wbo, haviag planned, with coiuummaU wiidom, » (yd«ro oT
ily Kcured apliiu every cncioachment of carrupUoii ; and having, b;
liion of [iches, baaishcd luxury, aviiice, and intempennce; olablidicd
u for many ages, peifcci liberty and iavLotible puiity of mtiuicn.

BVCKIVOHAMSani. {^

Socrates,

Qui comiptissirai In civitate innocens,

Bonorttin hortator, unici cultor Dei,

Ab inutili otio, & vanis disputationibus.

Ad officia vitae, & societatis commoda^

Philosophiam avocavit,

Hominum sapientissimus.,

H0MER9

Qui poetarum primus, idem & maximus^

'N^rtuds pneco, & immortalitatis l&Tff^tOTf

Divino carmine

Ad pulchr^ audendum, & patiendum fortiter.

Omnibus notus gentibus^ omnes incitat.

EPAMINOHDASy

Cujus k virtutc, prudentii, verecundid,

Thcbanorum respublica

libertatem simul & imperiumy

Discipiinam beliicami civilem & domesticam

Accepit ;
Eoque amisso, perdidit.

U 2 The

SOCI.ATII, who, innocent in the midst of a most conupted people; the
cncourager of the good; a worshipper of the one God ; from useleu specula-
tions, and Tain disputes, restored philosophy to the duties of life, and tim
benefit of society.— The wisest of men.

Homer, the first and greatest of poets; the herald of virtue; the giver of
immortality; who, by his divine genius, known to all nations, incites all,
nobly to diire, and to su£Fer firmly.

£p Ami HONDAS,' by whose valor, prudence, and modesty, the Thebaa
tommonwealth gained liberty and empire, military discipline, civil and do*
mettle policy ; all which, by loaing him, she lost.

tgtt BCCKISCIIAMSHIRT.

Ths Tehtie ot Bkitish Wo&thizs h a MmicircnUr
building, erected on tl>e buika of tbe upper lake, titer k design by
Kent. It contains th« busts of tbe (Momog celebrated cbaisc-
ters, with ^>propriate inscriptions :

Alixandiik Fori, who, uoiting ihc coiTectiMU of judgment to ihe fin of
ijcsiui, by the melody md {loweT of hii niunbm, give iwcetneu to kok, and
^ gnc* to pbitixaphy. H« cnploycd the poisted britlimcy of wit to chatiM
the vks, md the eloquence of poetry to cxilt the virtuei, of bumm lutaRt
mi being without « livtl io hi> own ige, imitued nid truuUced, with > qiirit
•qui to the origiiuU, the beM PoMi of miiijuity.

8t> Tbohai CiiiHAH, who, by the hononUe profeuioaof ■nerehn^
hning enriched tiimidf *nd hii couatiy, for carryii^ on tbe coomelGe of iIm
world, built the Royal Zxt^ange.

loHATiua JoHii, who, to (dom bii caoatry, introJoecdud rinllcd Ae
Gretk and Konua irehitecture.

JoRH Milton, wboie lubline md unbouaded gemul eqailled ■ lubjeet
'. that cairied him beyond the limiU of the world.

William SFAKiiHA«K,whoM eicelloii geniui opened to him the whole
heart oF man, all the mtnn of fancy, ill the iioia of nature ; and gave him
power, beyond all other wrilera, to move, ailoniih and delight minkind.

John Locke, who, beat of all philosophen, undenlood tbepowen oftb*
human mindi the nature, end, and boundi of civil govemmml; and, with
equal sagacity, refuted the ilniih lyuem of uaurped authority over the tighti,
tbe conicienc«, or the reaion of mankind.

$IK It A AC NiwTOM, whom the God of nature made to compreheod hia

Si A Fkahcii Bacom, Load Vikdlam, who, by the Mrength and light
of aupeiior geniuj, rejecting vain ipeculttion and fallKioui theory, uughi to
punue truth, and improve philoiophy by the certain method of experimeni.

KiHC AtrAED, the mildat, juitcat, moit beneficent of kings; who drove
•ut the Dan«, secured the Kai, protected learning, enabliihed juriet, cruihed
(omipliou, guarded liberty, and wai the founder of the Engliih conititution.

Edwaid, PaiHCt OF Walii, the terror of Europe, the delight of Eng.
land; who preserved unaltered, in the height of glory and fortuoe, hit natutal
gentlenru and modeny.

QaiiH ELirARiTH, who confounded the projecti, and dettroyed tb*
. power, that ihreatcoed to opprni the libenic* of Europe; ihoak off i}ie yoke

BUCKINGIIAUS:

•C Eccledlitietl tfnony; rotated religioa fram the carruplioni of Popciyi
md, by a wiw, i niDdcnLe, ind ■ papulit govenuaeot, give wealth, KCutitf
lud respect (o Eogliad.

KiHC WiLLiAU III, who, by hi> virtue aod conilmcy, having uved hit
countiy from a foreign mallei, by > bold tad gEoeiaiu eourpiiit, prcterved
(he liberty and religion of Gral-Briuio,

endeavouring to roiue the ipirii of hii cnuier, for the honor of ii
igainU Ihe ambition of Spain, fell a »cri>ic< to the influence u(
whuie amu he had vinijuuhed, and whoM deiigni he opposed.

SlK

Fkanco Dkake,

who, through many pet

ils, v»

Il|e £rit ol

Btiloo)

thitver

iluredtoiail rounj

the globe: and earned inli

> nnknov

vatcaiand

nalioDi,

(he knowledge and glory of the Engliih Dame.

JOH

NHAKfOEH, who

, with great ipirii and co

niummai

.e abililiei.

beg...

noblBoppoiLiionioanafbi

irirycoun, in defence of the libcn

iMof lui country;

.uppo.

led ihem in parliim

ent, and died for them in

the field

Sj.

JOHH Pa«N-«0

, who dirtinguiihed himself m

Pailiatoeni

,by.n

active 1

■nd firm oppoi.lior

1 to the penjicioui and in

practice

t iiock.

jobbing: at the ume time

exening hii utmost abilii

.>;rea» Ihe

Htength

of h.i

country, by redue

ing the intemat of the na

lional d<

:lrt; which be pro.

poKd

to ihe Houte of CatDoou in the year 1737,

and, w

iih the i»h

J«.ceof

Goven

imenl, carried into

effect in the year 17S0.

nternu

of eq..! j,

.il.ce M-

Partici

il»n and to the Stati

:; notwitbstandine all the

.inp^dit

tienu whic!

1 private

tntaol

; could oppoje to pi

ublie ipirit.

In the centre of this building are these Uuos iosc
marble:

Hie manui-ob pattiam pugnando vulnera pasii,
Quiijue pii vatet, aut Phobo digna loeuti,
Invenutaut qui vitam Excoluere pctirtei,
f^uique lui mcmoici alioi facen merendo.

Here are the banda, who for Iheit country bled ;
And bardi, whute pule and uctcd vetie it lead :

And by ilieir metiti, made their mqn'tiei lov'd.

Captain GitttrviLLE's Monuuekt was erected by the
late Lord Cobhani, in honor of his nt'phew Captain Thoma*

tjrenville. This is a tofly column, surmomned with a figure,
U 3 r«p''^*>="""lS

I
I

MpxcMBting Hwoic Poetiy, ud deoonled mtk ownl trofdiiM.-
T)m pedeMiJ b inicrihed with this qiitaph :

Ye weeing miua, graca, virtue*, tell,
' If, iiiiceyourin-Kcoiii{)ltA'i) SiDiftT (dl,

'' YOu, or ifflicud Britlin, e'er deploi'd

A lou like that Umk plilnliseliTinuiidi

Sach ipotleu kaoor, tuch iognuaiu tmb,

Soch.opes'd wUdoBiia the blooai of yovtbl

So DuM, n ^nlle, M Mmpoi'd ■ mind,

ToMicbWioic wKBithi>dcaung*}(un'dl

Ueloo, UkeSmxiT. nun'd in leuuing^ ttml,
' "' Tor DoUo' wu fonookhcf pcKcful cbuu;

'" I,lkf him, pdoeu'd of cvfry pleuiiy.ict,

TlKMcret wiihof every virgio'i beaili
i .. J.Ul« Um, CM off ia routfafat |lory^ pM^

.-ly. Bs MM^inins, for hi* cavBlty dy'4.

G'OKai LokB LrTttitev.

This g&n&ntbScer,' whose accoroplishnients are thus comme-
morated, waa mortally wounded in the thigh, in an engagement
between the French and the fleet of Admiral Anson. When
wcpiring, he exclaimed, ".Iluw much better it is thus to die,
than to stand arraigned before a court-martial."

The Grotto is situated in a romantic dell, and composed of
broken stunes, pebbles, flints, spars, and other materials. It
consists of two caverns: from the lowermost, the water flows into
S rivulet ornamented with several small islands, and overehadowed
by a variety of intersecting branches. Fossils, petrifactions, and
spars, constitute the inside of the grotto, which is also decorated
with two white marble basons, and a statue of Venus apparently
rising from the bath. The following beautiful lines, justly
descriptive of the situation, from Milton, are inscribed on a
tablet of marble :

Goddeii of the ittver wive,

To thy lliick embowered cave,

To ATclKd wilks, and iwiJight grave*.

And ihidowi brown, which Salvia lovei.

When the >un begin* to fling

Hi* fluioi buutu, at, GoddMs, brioj.

BUCEINDHAH9BIIIB, 3(|5

The Temple of Concord ajtd Victoit is a lar^e hand-
lome building, of an oblong shape, decorated wiih twenty-
eight fluted Ionic columns. This i$ acknowledged to be one of
the most chaste and cleg&tit ornamental structures in the kingdom;
and as long a« it continues to exist, llio architect will noeJ no
other monument to record his taste and judgment. It was
originally designed by Kent, who nearly followed the shnpe and
measurements of the Maison Quareil at Nismes; hut the internal
decorations were completed in 1/63 by Signior Borra, when ths
late Lord Temple gave it the appellation which it now bears, to
perpetuate the remembrance of the peace theii ratilicd at fon-
tainbleau.

The front pediment is ornamented with an allo-relievo by
Schcemaker, representing the four (juarters of the world bring-
ing their various products to Britannia. On the top of the build-
ing ate six statues. The inside contains two gilt vases, a statue,
and sitteen medallions, intended to commemorate some of the
principal victories obtaiued in the war which terminated in the
year above mentioned. This temple overlooks a most beautiful
scene, called tlie Grecian Valley, commencing at the Park, to
which it has been judiciously mftde to assimilate, by the distribu-
tion of large spreading trees at unequal distances. As the Vullcy
winds into the gardens, it gradually contracts jlscif, sinks d<-eper,
and the trees advance more boldly down its steep bank, till
at last it becomes entirely secluded by a close thicket, that
overhangs the Grotto.

Lord Cobiiah's Pillar, on the other aide of the valley,
is 115 t«t high, surmounted with a statue of his Lordship. It
was originally designed by Gibbs, hut has been altered by Valdre,
who enlarged the pedetUl, in order to receive four Huns, that are
now placed on the angles. The four principal feces contain the
following inscriptions, teslimoiiial of his Lordship's laste, talents,
OJid character.

U 4 Ricardo

Ricardo Vicecomiti de Cobfawa,
Exerciticum BritumiconuB MweMtUoi
Qui m CMtrii, et io n^otiic,
Rnopoblicsm tustinuit;
Et el^uiliori kortorum cnltn
Hi* pnmuin in ■grii'iUiutrato
Fatrium OTBKrit,
MDCCJ(LVU.»

L.L«oulU mBini TiriMitutis quiir Qnin
Mutti nUanun qufluficendam imibtti sunt!

Tuhy's OFPICSS,t

■ . .^

And j«Uj biare Cobham, to Ae latest breath, .- ,
^ Sball feei.yoorralii^paauoQ smug in death;
Such m thoM moments u in all the past: , ',
" (^y Mve my Country, Heav*!!!" shall be your laat.
A. Pope,

Consult the genius of the place in all,
That bids the waters rise or gently bll ;
That bids th' ambitious hills the heav'nii to scale,
Or scoops in circling theatres the vale ;
Calls in the country, catches op'ning glades;
Unites the woods, and varies shades from shades;
Nature shall join you ; 'Hme shall make it grow
A work to wonder a^— perhaps a Stowb,

A. POFB.

Near this column is a beautiful temple, called the Quest's
Poi^DiNO, originally designed by Kent, since whose time it

* To Rkhiid Lord Viicouu Ct^him, Hanhal of the Britiih Atmie^
yriuat miliury and civil Taleou uv'd hii Country: Bid who idomed it by i
pore elcgint SyUcm of modem Girdoiuig, lint illiutmed on ihii Spot.

BUCKiKoiiAU<)iiiaE. 297

kas been augincnied by ^ Corinthian portico, leading to a large
•logunt room, decorated with scagliula columns luid pilasters,
supporting a trunk ceiling, executed t'rom the design of the Tem-
ple of the Sun and iMuon at Rome. Thi& apartment was decorated
after the King's recovery in 17B9- At the east and west ends
are two medallions of Britannia : In one of them she appears de*
jccted i her spear reversed. On the tablet is this inscriptiun :

De^ideriis irta fidelibus
Quxrit patria Cxsarem.*

In the other she b represented sacrificing to £sculapius on the
restoration of His Majesty's health. On the tablet is this inscrip*
lion:

Oh sol pulcherl Oh taudamlc canam,
Recepto C;esare ftlix If

In the centre of this apartment is a noble statue of Britannia,
■eftted on a fluted pedestal, and suppurlini; a meilalliun of the
Queen, whose afibccion and conduct ace commemorated by
the following inscription:

Charlottx Sophix Augusts
Pietate ei;^ Kegeip, erga renipublicam

Virtute & contitantid,

lu difficilltmis temporibus spectatissiiiue,

D. D. D.

Oeorgius M. de Buckingham,

MDCCDXXXIX.;

■ Thil health lo Czur ipay be giv'n,
A natioiTi privcrs aurcnd la hnv'n.

4 With joy clilc thii happy day I iing.

When heav'n, tt> bleu the people, uv'il the king.

} To (he Quxi.N, mtiit mpoibiblc in het most dilRcu It Moment!, for her
Duty V the King, and her AltKhmeat aod Zeal tor [)ii: public Service, Geoi^
U. of BuckioghBTn, dedicates thii Monument

BUCKtKGIIAHSUIKE.

Oil ihe walls of the cenlre compartment arc four other medal-
lions, composed uf erablametic trophies : lirst, of Rrligioo, Jus-
tice, imU Mercy ; seconii, uf Agriculture and Mimufacture ; thirdi
of Navigatioa and Commerce ; and fourth, of War.

On the opposite side of a deep voiley is the most picturesque
and curious liuilding in these gardens, denominated tlie Go>
Tiilc TxUPbB. This is a triangular building, with a pentagonal
tower at each corner; one of which rises to the height of
seventy feet, and terminates with battlements and pinnacles: the
othcr> are surmounted with domes. The whole is conslnieted
with a browiusli stone, and being seated on the brow of a hill,
forms iLU interesting object Irom many parts of the gardens.
The iniiidc is richly ornamented with ligh; culumiLS and vanoui
pointed arches; and the wiudows arc glazed with a fine collection
of old- painted gloss, on which a variety of sacred subjects, and
armorial bearings, are rcprescnlcJ. The principal room is cir-
cular: and its dome u ornamented with the descents and inter-
marriages of the Temple family, in a regular jerios of armorial
beariugs, from the Saxon EarU of Leicester, to the late Lord
Viscount Cobhani, and Hester, Countess of Temple, his sister
and heiress. Two of the towers contain small circular chapels,
decorated with painted glass, of the armorial hearings of different
families. In the other tower is the stair-case leading to the gal-
lery ou the second story, where there are two other small
chapels, with the arms of the Saxon heptarchy. This stair-case
leads to the lop of the highest tower, where a very extensive
view is obtained, comprehending the greater part of the domain,
and also a wide tract of country, including several parts of
Ittickinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Northamptonshire, and Bedford-
shire.

In a woody recess, near the temple, are some good statues, by
Rysbrach, of the seven Saxon deities who gave names to llie days
of the week; on each of which is a Saxon inscription. At the
bottom of a gentle declivity is the Palladian Bhidoe, so
denominated from being built after a design by the celebrated
Italian architect. It has one large and four small arches, and
is decorated with a ballustrade on each side, and sixteen Ionic

colunmp

columns supporting a rouf. T)ii3 btidgc is built of the same shape
and dimensimnii as that at Wilton in Wiltshire. Nuar it is

The Temple of Friendship, built in the Tuscan style of
archiloclure, and ornamented with a portico, supported by four
columns. The inside is furnished with busts of the following
celebrated and Dohio personages: Frederic, Prince of Wales;
the Earls of Cheslerliuld, Westmoreland, and Marchmont; tha
Lords Cobham, Gower, and Baihurst; RicLaid Grenville, late
Earl Temple; Wijliam Pitt, late Earl of Chatham; and George,
late Lord Lyttlcton. The remaining objects on this side of tha
garden are the Pebble Alcovb, and Conoreve's Mond-
MENT, executed from a design by Kent. This is decorated witl»
emblematic devices, expressive of the poet's peculiar bent of ge-
nius in dramatic cumposiiioDs. On ihe top sits a monkey, view
ing himself in a glass; with this inscription : #

Vitte ii

Consuctudini

speculum

On one side of the monument is the following epitaph or
acccoinplished author:

Ingenio

Acre, feceto, expolito,

Mori bus que

Urbanis, candidis, faciUitois.

GULIELMI CONOBETE,

Hoc

Qualecunque desiderii aui

Solamen simul ac

Monumentum

Posuit Cobhara.

MDCCXXXVLt

■ Comedy ii ihc Imilation of Life, and the Mimr of Fubion.

+ To ihi iprightly, oitorUining, i
cuy Maimen, of Williau Comcki
Uunoiiil of hii ancctlonile Regnd, '

Itgani Wit, and ihe poliiliMl, cmdld,
t, (his, in some ion > ConMluioo md
It erected by Coiuau.

KUCKItrOBAMSHIRB.

rr the principal objects in thew cetebraled ^t^Tfleaa,
where, (15 WalpoU- obaervcs, " the rich landscapes occa&iuncd by
the muliiplicity of lemplcs and obelisks, and the various pictures
riiftt present thEmselve^ as we shift mu >ituation, occasion both
surprise and pleasure; sometimes recalling Albano's hindscapcs
lo our mind ; and oitcner to our fancy, the idolalroiu and luxu-
rious vales of Daphne and Tem|>e."*

Thh Hoi'se istituuied on Hn eminence, rining gradually from
(he \akc 10 the south front, which is the pnnci|Ml enlnince. It
covers a lui^o extent of ground, and measures, from east to
west, (with the of&ces,) nine hundred and sixteen feet, of which
the centriciU four humlrod and fifty-four include the pni\cipal
apurtmenis. These range on each side the saloon, and commu-
nicate witli each other by a series of dooi^, placed in a direct
Mae. The soulli or garden front is composed of a centre, two
colonnades, and two pavilion wings ihe same height as ihe centre.
This side has a ruslicaled basemcni, and is ((domed with a great
number of Corinthian and Ionic columns and pilaiiters. The
design of this front has been aitrihuted t 1" Wr. Wjatt ; but we
ftre Ufiured that no professional architect was employed, and that
it owes its composition wholly to the Lords Cobham and Camel-
ford. The portico, or loggi^, is approached by a flight of
thirty-one steps, at the bottom of which arc two massive lions,
executed after the model of those in the garden vcslibulc of the
Villa Medici at Rome. The loggia is formed by six Corinthian
columns, and two pilasters, iihich supjiort a projecting pediment.
The inbide is decorated with thirteen figures in basso-relievo,
reprcsenltng a sacrifice to Bacchus ; and also four colossal female
statues, and Iwo fine antique figures in white marble, of Cybelo
and .liino.

The Saloon is, perhaps, one of the most magnificent apart-
ments of the kind in England, presenting a combination of

objects,

■ Vicwi of all thebuildingtat Stnwe, drawn ind rngravcd in ■ very bauli-
ful minnet by T. Mtdluid, hivt liuly been publiihcd by SecJey of BuciuDf.
hliBi logcthci widi 1 iIcKription of the houu and girdcnt.
t By Mr. Sbaw, Mi. Buy, Sec.

BUCKING II AMSItlHE. 301

objects, elegant, beautiful a.nd sumptuous. The expenses attend-
ing tbe execution of this apnrtRieiit amountvil to 13,0001. It*
shape is ovitl, measuring 6o feet long, 43 brijati, and Jj6^ high.

Sixteen elegant scagliola columns of the Doric order, in
imitation of Sicilian Jasper, rise from the pavement, which is
composed of the finest Masw Ciirrara marble, in squares of four
feet. The columns were uxcctilcd by Signior Dom. BartoU, aiit)
have while inanblo bases and capitals. In the intercolunuiialion*
•re twelve niches, and four doors ; the former occupied by eight
large statues, and four bronzed and gilt candelabras, of six feet
high. The statues are of Meleager, Augustus, IJj-aeia, Agrijipina,
Diana, Venus, Antinous, and a Muse. Above the niches are
■ixtccn compartments of trophies, OLecuted in alto-relievo. The
frieze is adorned with various masks of bacchants and satyn^
and over the coruice is a line piece of alto-relievo, siretchid|f
round the room. It represents a Roman triumph and sacrijire,
and consists of about 300 figures, most of which are four feet
hi^h ; amoi^ them are blended various trophies, spoils, and
animals. This multifarious assemblage was executed by Signior
Valdre, who composed or modelled his principal figures fmra
specimens, belonging to the pillars of Trajan and Antoiiine; the
arches of Severus, Htus, and Constantinc; and from oliier
monuments of Roman grandeur. A richlv ilceoraied dome,
divideil into compartments, ascends above this to an oval hkv-
lighL At each end are fejiiale figures, terminated in scroll-
work, supporting the arms of the Intc Earl Temple, and the
Marquis of Buckingham. This apartment, though particularly
ftrand at any lime, appears transcend a ntiy magnificent when
illuminated with nearly 100 patenl lamps, which disperse their
lights from behind the cornice. Ai ihesu times the effect is
greatly heightened by the melodious simins that issue from a
concealed music gallery, situated in one curner yf the saloon.

The Hall was designed and painted by Kent; but the arts of
design and coloring have so niateriallv improved in this country
since his time, that there is but little to admire in these speci-
mens. Th« ceiling is covered with an allegorical painiing, in

which

302 BBCKlNGIIAUSHtRB.

which King William is represented in the cbamcter of Mftn,
prescating a sword to the late Field Marshal Viscount Cobham,
in allusion to that Prince having given him a regiment at his tint
entrance into the army. Over the chimney is an altO'relievo in
white marble by Banks, representing the valiant Caractscus
before the throne of Claudius.

A recess in the opposite wall contains another very bold alto-
relievo, representing the tent of Darius, executed by a French
artist named Christopher Vioreziux. Also a statue of Paris, in
white marble, and two fine antique Vaaes, on marble pedestals ;
one of thera purchased from Piranese, and the other from Gavin
Hamilton. Both are decorated with figures and foliage; that
with four serpents forming the handles, is very lincly executed.
Here are also eight antique marble busts, four transparent ala-
baster urns, and a small marble sarcophagus. On each side of
the Hatl are Dressing and Bed Rooms, conbuning several portraits,
and a few other pictures. These apartments lead to the circular
corridors, each formed with twenty-seven Ionic columns, and
one pilaster. The western division of the house consists of
lite State Drawing-Room, State Gallery, State Dress ing-Room,
State Bed-Chambcr, and various Closets.

Tmk State Drawing-Room is 50 fc-et by 32, and 32 high.
It contains a collection of wdl executed pictures, most of which
are by the best old musters." The principal are these;

Portrait of Dobson, by himself. This artist was recommended
to Charles the First by Vaiidyck, «lio became acquainted with
him through observing one of his pictures exposed for sale on
Snow Hill. The piece had merit; and Vandyck inquiring for the
painter, was introduced to Dobson, who was then at work in a
shattered garret. He painted many of ihe Nobles of Chori«'s
court, but his conduct being imprudent, he became involved in
debt, and was committed to prison, whence he was delivered by

Mr.

• In dctCTlbing ibc picturci in ihii collection, wliicb ii very extauive, md
piTtlcularly rich iapoRniu, wc have adopieii the nimu ef die attiitt u piiaicd
ia the catilogue.

Mr. Vsu^han, of the Exclicqiicr, but died soon aflerwatils, in
l6i6, aged 36.

A fine sketch by \^andycl(, representing Princu Henry and
Prince Maurice of Nassau, on large white horses.

Reubbandt's FiTHBR : Uembrandt.

Helena Kohman, one of Ruben's wives: Rubens. Tliis
ladywBs supposed to be the artist's greatest favorite, as he copied
ber countenance for most of his Madonas.

Rachel's Tent: G. DoHw. It is generally understood that
this arliat confined his pencil to smail pieccrj ; and Pilkington
implies, that his largest jdctures did not exceed three feet square.
The present performance is abate Jke feet square, finished with
that peculiar neatness, and patient detail, for which Douw wRS
celebrated. In one corner are his initials, G. D. Tlic suhject
is talien from the 31st Ciiapter of Genesis, wlien Rachel is dtf-
•cribed as secreting the stolen gods from Laban and Jacob. She
is represented sitting on a bundle of wheat, in one corner of th*
picture, with two old men and a boy behind her. The tent is
strewed with culinary utensils. The composition, colorini;, and
expression, are very fine ; and the ears of wheat, and ininutis
of parts, touched with wonderful precision.

Sir RicMAan Leveson, Knight of the Bath: Vandyck.

St. Catharine and St, Barbara; two curious old pictures, by
Albert Durer.

View of the Bay at GraTelines,
This is a beautiful little piclun
perspective are finely painted.

Two exquisite paintings of c
from the Colonna palace, by Carlo Dolci. Most of this artist'*
productions are finished with extraordinary neatness, transpa'
rcncy, and minutiie of penciling.

>lead of St. Peter; two different compositions of the Holy
Family; and a head of St. Paul : Rubens.

Two Landscapes : Gasper Pousiin.

Venus reclining: Titian. This picture, though not in good

preservation, contains some beautifid coloring, and the figure is

rery finely drawn. It was purchased from Gavin Hamilton, who,

2 haviug

n French Flanders : RuMJae).
; the sky, water, and aerial

ir Saviour and the Madona,

BVCXINGBAMSItrRfl,

having reduced his finances by his liberality, and the grrat ex*
pence attending his c.\pioralory investigations at Herculatieuirr,
sent this to the Marquis, with « request for lui itoniediale
remittance,

A Landscape with Siityn : P. Brueghel. DeMcately colored,
and finished with minute altenlion, even to a blade of grass.

A large Landscape, with Alehouse, and a group of three Figures
resting on their staffs: D. Tenieis.

In this apartment there is abo a line Italian chimney-piece,
in the centre of which is an antique tablet of oriental alabaaler,
representing the emblems of a. sacrific« to Bacchus, and beads of
bacchanals. The pilasters are of porphyry, tf^elber with jwit
of the entablature ; the remainder is of the (inest white marble ;
on the tnaalle'piecc is a very valuable transparent vase of oriental
ftlabofler.

The Stati Gallery, 70 feet by 85, and 22 h'gh, ir
splendidly furnished with settee chairs, covered with blue
silk damask. Its walls arc hung with tive large curious pieces of
tapestry. The two chimney-pieces are of Sienna marble, ex-
ecuted by Mr. Lovel. On the tables and mantle-pieces are
some fine brnnire statues of Hercules, Flora, Venus, ic.

ToB Statb DAEHEiNr. Room, 30 feet by 24, and 1 9 high,
is also hung with tapestry, worked at the request of Lord
Cobham, and some other officers, (serving under the Grent Duke
of Marlborough,) who raised a. subscription for the purpose. The
diftcrent pieces represent the actions of ihe cavdry in the allied
annj: the largest displays Ihe battle at Wynendael wood.*

A fine portrait of the late Held Marshal Viscount Cobham ;
Sir Godfrey Kncller,

T^vo capital piciures of a Bargomasler and his Wife : Van
Horst.

The

* Similar lets were worked for the Duk* of Miriboiough, it Blenheim ;
Lord Cidogin, al Cavcnham j Duke of Aigyle, » Invenry,- Loid Olkciey, *
Clicfdeni Geuinl Lumlcy, it WuuUadi tnd Geaenl Webb.

micKiKGHAMsniKr. 305

The State Bed Chamber, 50 feet by 35, and IS high, is
distinguished by its magniticeiit bed, executed by Signior Borra.
The chair;, window curtains, and hangings, are of crimson
damask. Over the chimney is a copy, by Sir Godfrey Kncller,
of Vandyck's celebrated picture at Hampton Court, representing
Charles the Hrst on a white horse, attended by Monsieur St.
Simon, The ceiling is ornamented with the insignia of the Gar-
ter. The room, closets, and japan cabinets, contain a vast col-
teclfon of curious old china.'

Tmb State Closet contains several good cabinet pictures.

A portrait of the present King of Denmark ; A, Kauffman.

The AdoraHAn of the Magi : P. Veronese.

A Boy and Woman by Candlelight : Schalken. Many curioui
anecdotes are related of this artist, one uf them strongly
characterizes his nnpolite sincerity. " Having drawn a lady,
tays Mr, Walpole," who was marked with the small-pox, but
had handsome hand.i, she asked him, when the face vas fininhcd,
if she must not sit for her bunds. " No," replied Schalken:
" I always draw them from my housemaid."

A Battle-piece : Vander Meulen.

Inside of a Church : P. Ncefs.

Flemish Piece by Moonlight : Swickhart. Exquisiteljtcolored.

Two Sketches: Rubens, One of Venus and Adonis; tha
other of the Adoration of the Magi,

Two small Fruit-pieces, painted with much truth of coloring
by Smith of Chichester.

Holy Family r Corregio, This small picture (about 10 inches
square) was purchased by Mr. Craggs ioc two hundred guineas,
and, with the principal pait of that gentleman's collection, de-
scended to the Marquis. V

Returning through the Saloon, we shall next describe the
principal objects in the apartments situated on the eastern aide of
the bouse.

Vol. I. X Thi

• Tile beginning of itie liU cenUiry wH pa«iculir1y diilingiiiiltd by i Uigt
fiwcatlccling tad diipliyiog aproEuiioo of chini; mmy remninit of which

I
I

Tub Music Kooh corresponds in site and shape with the
State Drawing Room, but being particularly appropriated lu
sound, the walls arc totally divet^led of framed paintings : yet
the whole apartment has been ornEuncnted in a most elegant and
chaste style, by Signior V'aldrc, Each end of the room is deco-
rated with sc&gliola columns, executed in imitation of &ictin&
marble, by Signior Bartoli ; the capitals, mouldings, *nd other
ornaments, arc richly gilt. The walls are di*idcd into paimets,
and painted »'ith arabesque and other subjects, executed with
the greatest neatness. The general idea is taken from the Loggia
of RaphatI at Rome.

At one end is a recess for the instrumenls, decorated with
pilasters, painted on a gold grutind ; and a statue of Apollo,
richly gilt, placed on a pedestal containing an organ. The
ceiling is painted with much taste, and was executed by \'aldre
from a design of Raphael. It is divided into compartments, some
of which are painted in chiaro acuro upon pink grounds ; but
the principal are executed in colors. In the centre is a gilt
lun ; which, from its judicious management, appears to blend
its rays with the sky. This is surrounded with an allegodcal
representation of the Dance of the Hours ; the Seasons;
AurorOf^the Goddess of Morning; and the figure of Night, w^o,
wrnpt in her " murky mantle," is retiring behind a cloud.
The chimney-piece is Roman; the pannels of Rosso-Antico,
with ornaments in Or-moulu.

The LiBUARy, which is nearly linished, occupies the space
that was recently the Drawing and Dining Rooms. This 'u the
same size and shape a& the State Gallery, and is situated in that
part of the building which connects the centre with one of the
^viliuns. It contains above 10,000 volumes, many of which
are very rare and valuable ; and a great collection of unpublish-
ed writings. Among ihera is an invaluable assortment uf Jrish
manuscripts, including all the papers of Mr. Charles O'Conner:
some of them are reported to be the productions of the 7lli, 8th,
and 9tl> centuries. In this apartment are two globes of th«
Ui^t sixe, made by Dudley Adams, The celestial globe is
(graduated

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 30?

graduated in the same manner as that of the terrestrial, by line*
of latitude and longitude. Tlie stars are of seven different
magnitudes, distinguished by diB'erent colored foib; and the
nebulce are marked with silver; the number of stars represented
amounts to *9A4,

The Portraits in the Dressiitg and Gkbnvillb Rooms
are very numerous: we shall mention the principal, and illustrate
the list with appropriate anecdote.

Ea&l Nuoent : Gainsborough. A full length, painted in a
blue coat and breeches, with a beautiful landscape seen throu^
the window oCthe room tn which he appears sitting.

Mas. SiDSONs: Lady Buckingham. This eminent actress
is portrayed in the character of ihe Tragic Muie, supported by
the genii of Pity and of Horror. This was copied from Ihe cele-
brated picture of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and is a fine specimen of
her Ladyship's taste and talents in the fascinating art of painting.

Edward Sbvmour, Duke of Somerset, and Protector in
the early part of the reign of Edward the Sixth. The advance-
ment of this Nobleman's fortune was occasioned by the marriage
of his sister, the accomplished Jane Seymour, with Henry lh«
Eighth. On that event he was honored with the title of Viscount
Beauchamp. The ensuing year he was created Earl of Hertford;
and some lime afrerwards was promoted to the office of Lord
Chambvrlain. On the death of Henry, he was chosen governor
to the young King, and declared Protector. In this situation
bis conduct was imprudent, and in some respects unjust. The
possession of so much authority destroyed the gentler virtues,
and rendered him proud, impetuous, and overbearing. " His
contributing to the ruin of the Howards, hurt him much in the
eyes of the nation. His severity to his own brother, though, ft
vain and worthless man, was still less excusable. His injustice
to his own issue was monstrous; for, influenced by his second
Duchess, and countenanced by the servility of Parliament, h«
deprived his eldest son of his inheritance and titles," With all
his faults, however, he had many good qualities; and his attention
to the. interests of the puorwas gi'ncrous and noble; thoi

. attention ^^1

lough, by ^^H
a Strang* ^^^^|

308 BUCXINOKAHSHIEE.

k strange prrversily of argiimctil, it was adduced, by liis enemi«,
u a charge to criminate him. The superior art and interest of
the Earl of Warwick first bereaved him of hie Protectorship, and
afterwards of life. He was arraigned for conspiring the E^rl't
death, and, by a furced construction of a recent law, declared
guilty of felony, and beheaded the 24th of January, in the ye«r
1552.

Thomas Seykopr, Lord Sudley, High Admiral, and bro-
ther to the Protector. Lord Sudlcy was a man of eminent abili-
ties, but uncnntroulable ambition. On the death of Henry the
Eighth, he married the Queen Dowager, who dj-iag in cbild-bed,
or, according to some writers, of poison, he a.spired to the pos-
session of the Princess Eliiabeth. and accompanied his preten-
sions to her hand with indications of violence. For this, and
some other turbulent conduct, he ivas accused of traitorous de-
signs, and condemned by an act of attainder, to expiate his
crimes on the scaffold. Tho Protector incurred coti^iderablc
odium by permitting his execution, which, it was generally
thought, was occasioned less from hif being dangerous to the
State, than troublesome to the existing government. Both these
portraits are SAtii in the catalogue to be undoubted originals.
Of the admiral, there is only one more portrait known to be extant,
and that is at Longleat, in Wiltshire.

Queen Catherine Parr. Catherine, Ihe most fortunate
of Henry's wives, was a great encoitragcr of learning, and friend
to the Reformation ; though the tyranny of her husband's
temper obliged her to use extreme care in tho exertion of her
influence- Once, indeed, her iile was in much danger; Henry
had consented to her impeachment, and Catherine's life hung
apon a thread. From this peril she was relieved by a well-timed
compliment to the Monarch's abilities. " She was a prudent,
amiable woman ; and, though neither over young, nor exquisitely
handsome, found means to gain more influence with her ca-
pricious mate, than either o( the young beauties that had pre-
ceded her."*

Aks*
" Aodlcwl.

BlrCKIKGHAM^HIRE. 309

Anna Boleyn. This unrortunalc Queen of Henry the Eighth,
ia described by Lord Herbert as being ''ofthatsingular beautieand
towardiiesse, that her parents took all care possible lor her good
vducation: therefore, besides the ordinary parU of virtuous in*
siructions, wherewith shoe was liberally brought up, they gave
her touchers tn playing on musical instruments, singing and dan-
cing; insomuch, that when she composed her hands to play, and
vt)ico to sing, it was joined with thut sweetnesse of countenance
that-three harmonics concurred : likewise, when she danced, her
rare proportions varied themselves into a.!! the graces thbit belong
either to rest or motion." These accomplishments, improved by
the ease and self-possessi»n she had acquired at the court of
France, captivated, but could not secure, the affections of the sa-
lacious Henry, who having conceived a passion for Jane Sey-
mour, caused his Queen to be tried for an incestuous intercourse
with her own brother, and adultery with four other persons.
This abominable charge rested on no other grounds than some
slight indiscretions, which her '' simplicity had equally betrayed
her to commit and to avow." No proof of innocence, however,
could avail with the stern Harry: she was condemned to die,
aiid expired on the scaffold, the 19th of May, 1536. In one of
the affecting protestations she serll to her unfeeling persecutor,
she thus expressed herself: " From a private station you have
raised me to that of countess ; from a countess you bave made
me queen ; you now can only raise me one step higher, to be a
saint in heaven." Anna Boleyn, when in the plenitude of her
power, was a distinguished promoter of the Reformation. This
circurostance is alluded lu by the classical Gray in these lines:

When love could Kith a MoiukIi to l>c wiie,
Antl goipel light lint httm'd ham Bolcyn'i eya.

HbKHY TIIK SlVBNTII,

Charles the Fihst.

Sheldok, Archbishop of Canterbury. The amiable and bo

nevolent disposiiion of this prelate, has ensured the remembrance

of his virtues to ihc latest posterity. He was truly a husband to

X 3 the

310

BDCKINGIIA

the widow, and a father to the oq^han; the extent of bis charJtiei
being only bounded by his means. From the private statement
of his accounts, it appeared, that during a space of fourteen
years, he had expended 60,0O0l, in acts of benevolence only.

Peter Temple. Tlie founder of Stowe, in IS60.

John Temple. This gentleman was bred in the court of
Charleii the First, uhu made bim Master of the Rolls, and one
of the Privy- Council in Ireland. He was afterwards imprisoned,
with some other members of the council, for opposing the mea-
sures o( the Duke uf Urmond. In the year 1644 be was ex-
chnnged, and called to the English Parliament, of ubicb he con-
tinued a member till l6*8, when be was excluded on voting for
tbe conditions then pending with the King. During Cromwell**
government he remained in retirement at London, but at the
Restoration was reimtnted in bis former offices in Ireland, where
be died at tbe age of seven tv-sevcn.

Hester Sandys, wife to Sir Thomas Temple, Bart. TTiii
lady, as we arc informed by Fuller, had only four son! and nine
daughters, yet lived to sec above seven hundred of her own de-
scendants.

Lord Viscount Conn am: Vanloo. This gentleman was emi-
nently duitinguisbed for Iiis bravery and conduct during the vars
of Queen Ann, at the commencement of whose reign he entered
the army as a volunteer, but was afterwards promoted to the
rank of lieutenant-general; and on the accession of Gtiorgc tbe
First, appointed plenipotentiary to the Emperor.

Sir Betil Ghemville, killed at the battle of L«nsdown
inlhcyear l6+3. " That which would have clouded any vic-
tory," says Lord Clarendon, " and made the loss of others less
•pokenof, was the death of Sir Bevil Grenville. He was, indeed,
an excellent person, whose activity, interest, and reputation,
were the foundation of what had been done in Cornwall; and
his temper and affections so public, that no accident which hap-
pened could make any impression on bim. In a word, a brighter
courage, and a gentler disposition, were never married together,
to make the most cheerful and innocent conversation."

2 RlCBAKD

XrCKINGRAMSHtRE. 3ll

Richard Grenville, ofWotton, bom 1537-

RiCHABD Gremville, ofWolton, born 15S6.

Richard Gresville, ofWotton: Sir Godfrey Knfeller.

Hester Temple, his wife; the lady who succeeded her bro-
ther to the estate and titles.

The Right Honorable George Grkkville, fitthertoLoH
Buckingham : Sir Joshua Reynolds.

William Pitt, first li^rl of Chatham. In the second
volume of Seward's Anecdotes, there is a spirited and well-drawn
character of this accomplished statesman. The qualities and ef-
fect of his eloquence are thus delineated: " It possessed great
force of light and shade: it occasionally sunk to colloquial fami-
liarity, and occasionally rose to epic sublimity. If he crept
sometimes with Timxus, he as often thundered and lightened
with Peri di?s. Ills irony, though strong, wa3 ever dignified;
his power of ridicule, irresistible; and his invective so terri-
ble, that (he objects of it sunk under it like shrubs before the
withering and blasting cast. Whoever heard this great man
speak, always brought away something that remained upon his
memory, and upon his ima^nation, A rerbtim erdrns, a glowing
word, a happy facility of expression, an appropriate metaphor,
a forcible image, or a sublime figure, never failed to recom-
pense the attention which the hearer had bestowed upon him."

Martiv Luther: H. Holbein. The life of thi* intrepid re-
former was passed in perpetual warfare with the united forces
of the Papal world, and all the thunders of the Vatican were in-
effectually employed to counteract the effects of his dreaded ar-
guments. The cner^es of his mind were directed by the most
ardent iseal; the expression of his sentiments was accompanied
with the most uncontroulable vehemence. " Whatever he says,"*
observes Melancthon, " whaliver he writes, pierces to the very
soul." His person was imposing and dignified; and the expres-
sion of his eye so acute and jwwerful, as even to awe and ter-
rify an assassin who had i^Hinet! admittance to his chamber with
»n intcittioa to murder him. He died in the year 155'J, aged (if).
X 4 Geneual

BUCKIVaUAHSUtKK.

General Michael RiciiARns, and his brother, General
John Richards. These officers are painted at full length on
the same canvas. In theback-giound is a view of Belgrade, with
& representation of the siege of tliat ktrong fortress in the year
l638.* John Richards was aftpfwards Governor of Alicant;
and, upori refusing to capitulate, was blown up March the 3d,
1709.

General Hichakd Lamsekt: D. Fuller.

Charles the Second: givpn by him to Sir R. Temple.

Admiral Russell, Earl of Orford, an original. This gal-
lant olliccr had a principal share in the conduct of the Revolu-
tion in l6S8, and nas rewarded with the command of the Eng-
lish fteet. In li>92 he gainud ihe celebrated battle of La Hogue,
and in l6g(j disconcerted the invasion projected by the Freucb
ill favor of King James.

William THE TiitiiD, when young; an original.

Oliver Crduwei.l: Richardson the Elder. This portrait
is said to be original ; an atlirmation receiving strength from its
having been given to Lord Cobhara in the yfar l685 by Sir
Feler Temple, of Stanton Bury, in this county. Sir Peter is
portrayed in this picture as a boy tying the Protector's scatC

James Craggs, Secretary of State to George the First: Si^
Godfrey Knelier, The firm integrity and undcviating recti-
tude that governed the conduct of this gentleman, have been
well expressed in the epitaph on his tomb in Westminster Abbey,
written by Pope.

Sui«m>n, yet friend lo ttulh ! of teul linccre ;

In idElon fiiihrul, ind in honor cleiri

Wlio bioke no protniie, lerv'd no privitecndi

Who giiD'd no title, and who loicno friend :

LnnobJed by himdclF, by til approv'd;

Praij'd, wip[, i.id honor'd, bytheMusehelot'd.

Dean Swift : Samuel Bindon. This portrait was sent with
some verses from Dr. Dunkin lo Lord Nufent. The following

spirited

• The dtiwings and joumilj of (his lii

XUCKINOnAMSIItKB,

■piriled skc^tch of tlie Dean's character has been drawn in n lata
publication. " Ill-natured in his satire, petuUnt in his politics,
and indecent in bis wil. A writer whose works, though they
exhibit constant esamplev of a powerful fancy, and coniprehen-
■ive knowledge, are not calculated either to give conlidence to
virtue, or corroboration tu morality."

Dr. Morbcroft, represented leaning ona magnificent bible
BOW in the possession of Lord Buckingham.

Ja,me9, DtiKE OF York: given by him to Sir Richard Temple.
This present was in all probability made at an early period of
their acquaintance; Sir Richard being afterwards particularly
sclivc in favor of the Bill to exclude the Duke froin succeeding
lo the 'ITirone.

John Churchill, Dukp of Marlborough.

C'oLotJEL James .StanYaU : Dobson.

The M.iiiQUia de Vieuville, Ambassador from France
to Churlci the First : Vandyck. This is a very excellent picture.
The Marquis lost hia life at the second battle of Newbury.

Qld Richard Desborouoii, and his jolly Wife : Dobson.
1'hcsc portraits of Cromwell^ sister and brother-in-law are very
highly linished, and colored with much delicacy and truth.

John Locke.

Mk. Pope: Hudson. This great Poet is represented wiib a
care-worn and sallow countenance: but the faithful pencil oi the
artist seems not to have workcil in unison with his employer's
vanity, as the latter afterward:* engaged another painter, to por-
tray him with fuller cheek^and a more ruddy complexion.
The latter piece ig a miniature in Lady Buckingham's Dressing
Kiiom.

The Billiard Rood, 39 feet in length, 2ti wide, and t^
high, is also decorated with portraits, many of which arc origi-
oat and curious.

Catharine op Bragakza, Wife to Charles the Second.
This Princess, bred to ilie pious observance of all the supen^ii-
tious ceremonies of the Catholic religion, was extremely shocked
at the hceiiliousncssof her husband's conduct; yef.when ihe fir!!t
emotions of her grief subsided, she appears to have conceived a

) wiih

3H XUCKINr.HAMKHtRK,

sincere passion for him, Bnd ever arier to have loved hin
tenderness, Tlie strength of her aflection is proved by a
lar circumstance, related in t!ie Memoirs of the Count de >
moDt. Being given over by her physicians, and ftt ihe point of
dculh, she was visited by the Kin^, and supposinj; it would be
the last time she should ever speak to him, " Told him, that the
concern he showed for her dcrath, was enough to make her quit
life with regret; but that, not pnsie«sing charms sufficient to
merit iiis tenderness, she had at least the consolation in dying lo
give plnco to a ctmsori who might be more worthy of it, and to
whiim heaven, perhups, might grant a bUuing that had been
refused lo her.* At these words she bathed his hands with
some tears, which she thought would be her lost. He mingled
his own with hers; and, without supposing she would take him
at his word, conjured her to live fur hU sake." The sudden im-
pulse produced by this unexpected kindness gave a check to the
disorder, and saved her life. She outlived the King nearly twenty
years.

'Eleanor GwYUit; whole length: Sir Peter Lely. Nell
Gwynn, the facetious mistress of the inconstant Charles, was the
daughter of a tradesman in low circumstances, and her emplov-
ment in the early part of her life was equally menial viih her
eri^n. From selling oranges at a Theatre, her budding beauty,
and sprightly disposition, advanced her to the stage; and her
geuius being adapted to the airy, fantastic exhibitions of the
Comic Muse, ^Xu- became the general favorite of the votaries of
Thalia. When in this situation, Me was considered as the best
speaker of prologues and epiloglies of her time, and several of
each were purposely written to receive the advanlBge of her fasci-
nating delivery. Mrs. Gwynn was of small stature ; and Dryden,
through whose patronage she had performed some superior charac-
ters, caused her to speak an epilogue under the shade of a bat

made

* The Qu«n in ibii ipccch appcirt lo allude to her own iteiility, and to the
fair Mi» Mcwan, whom, it wis luppoKd, ibc King iiucndcd to uke ior hi*

•cccnd wife

DI^CKIXGHAMSHIRI:. 3lS

made of the circumffreucc of a large cuach-whocl. The singu-
larity of her appearance, and her archness of enunciation, con-
vulfet) the house wiih laughter, and was the iinineiiiatc precursor
of her elevation to the Monarch's bed. Cbarles was then in tha
plaj-house, and, on the conclusion of the performance, invited
her to supper, and conveyed her home in his own carriage. This
sudden advance of circumstances seems to have bad very little
influence on her temper. She still continued gay, wild, and
sportive; qualities which so e^ectually endeared her to the King,
tliat all the beauties of his othur mistresses could never deprive
her of his affection. Her ingenuous levity of speecli, and acute
penetration, may be illustrated hy a short anecdote, Charles
was frequently at variance with his council and parliament; and
one day, when the remonstrances of his subjects, and debates in
bis cabinet, bad much aflected bim, he entered her apartmeuti
in a very pensive mood, and, on her requesting informaiioo as to
the cause of his melancholy, exclaimed, " O, Nell! Nell! what
can I do to please the people of England > I am torn in pieces by
their clamours." " There is one way left," said the shrewd
Eleanor; " but the expedient, I am afraid, it will he difficult to
persuade you to embrace." " What is tbati" asked the King, in
a tone expressive of curiosity. " Only dismiss your laJict, and
mind your business," repUed Nell, " the peopitt will soon be
pleased.** She died at her house in Pall-Mall, in the year
1691.

L*DV Jank Grey; an original. The comph-xion of this
lady was rather homely, hutAt) bcauly of her intellectual en-
dowments compensated the want of personal cliarms. Her
astonishing fortitude was completely demonstrated in her last
moments, when, either by accident, or the most cruel inatlcn-
tjon, she met the headless body of her beloved husband as she
was passing to tlie scafi'old.* On this occasion she wrote thrca
sentences in her table-book, in as many languages, One line in
Greek was to this effect; " That if his lifeless body should give,

testimony

BUCKIH&KAMSIIirtE.

loslimony against her hf-fore man, his most blessed soul would
give an eternal proof of her innoi^nce in the presence of God,"

Mary, Quee^ of Scots. The portraits suppot^cd to f«-
preient this unfortunate Princess are exceedingly uniike each
other, and all of them differ from the f;ald medal struck &t Pari;,
ou which she a)ipears with licr husband Francis the Second. The
medal b in the late Ur. Hunter's museum, and represents her
as having a turned-up noso. Her figure, however, was sn grace-
ful, and her look so fascinating and heavenly, that, when earn'-
ing the water in the pix at the procession of the host in Franco,
a woman liunl through the crowd to touch her, that she might
convince herself that the Queen was not an ftngel.*

Mart CuRaon, Countess of Dorset: Voudyck,

pRivcp; Eugene of Savoy, the companion and friend of the
Dtike of Marlborough, and at one lime so much a favorite with
lilt Biiglish, that, according to Horace Wulpole, an old maid
bequeathed him 25001. and a gardener lOOl.

TiiE Loud TneAsunER SotrTiiAMPTON ; Vandyck. Tho
attachment of this greai man and his three friends, the Duke
of itichmond, and the Earl- of Hertford and Lindsey, to Charles
the First, inUuted them to olftr themselves asviciim' to preserve
the life of Ihut Monarch, Tliey presented a petition to the Com-
mons, allcd^ng, that they alone were guilty in the eye of the
law, as they had acted as counlellors to his Majesty in (he seve-
ral mensures imputed to him as crimes, and ought therefore
tn expiate the supposed offences of the King. On the Restora-
tion, the generous conduct of Sonhampton was rewarded with
tlie Ircasurev's rod; but within a few )<^ars his services were for-
gotten, and the ingratitude of an ahandoncd court would have
wiHu^led the stuff from his dying hands if the Chancellor Hyde had
not persuaded the King to wait till his death, which in a few
days was inevilublc. He died of the stone in the year 1669.

William Earl of Fembhoke: Vantlyck. The courtesy
of this Noblenian, and his fecetious disposition, procured him

many

• Seward'i An«doic», Vol. I.

BVCKINOHAKntllRR.

many friends, ami seemed to caacel tlie reraerabranci^ o{ hi
of pleaaorc, wliieli I'requeiitly dc^rjii; rated to ubandonL-J
alitj.

Charlbs the Fiust, and IiJi Queen Hb\hietta MAniAl
Vandyck. Tlie bigotted Hud UN»i*e conduct of the lovity Ik-ii-
rictla, W1IS the principal cause of tlin King's niisfurloiKS. Hrt
detestatiun of Kcrclical ccrcmoHia b baid to hnvc htiu »■> ftical,
thai she ti'gnrded tlic righls of coronation (l< profimc, and would
only attend as a private spectator when tlie diadem u n i>laccd cm
the brow of her husband. Aincing the letters »i tM- I', mccss in
the British Museum, there is one written suon atti^r (i>e u:jsuc-
ccssful Attempt lipoa Hull, in the ycac l643. This letter is
strongly expressive of her intrepidity: the original is in French,
and without a date. *' When 1 was closing my letter. Sir L,
Dives came, and told me hII that bad passed at Hull. Do not
Insc courage, but pur.-iue the business with resolution; for yoU
must now evince that you will make good what you have under-
taken. If the man who is in the place will not submii, you have
already dei-lared him a trmtor, and you must have him dead or
alive ; for matters begin lo be very serious. \ ou must declare
yourself: yuu have shewn sufficient forbearance, you must now
show firmness. You see what has happened from not having
followed your first ivsolutiou, when you denounced the Hvc mem-
bers, traitors; let tliut serve as an example; dally no longer with
consultations, but proceed to action. 1 heartily wished myself
in the place of my sou James in Hull ; I would have thrown the
scoutidrcl Hotham over the walls, or he should me. I am in
such haste to dispatch tliis bearer, that 1 can write to nobody
else. Go boldly to work : — 1 see there is no hope of accommo-
dation," &c,

Francis, the second ELarl of Bedford.

Sia Francis Bacon, " the I'hophet of Arts, which
Newtok was sent afterwards to reveal," The celebrity of
fiacon may be aiiribuCed as much to his corrupt administra-
liou of justice, as lo the astfuiisbing vignr of hin undei'standing ;
for the depraved actions ot individuals arc more impressed on the
S memory

TI»

memory of the species^ Ihan cither their endowmpnts or good
quahtici. ^Vhile, however, we revert to his miscondnct, it
would be ungenerous to withhold applause from the spirit which
enableil him lo survive disgrace, and apply the resources of bis
genius to ihi: illustration of science by ck peri men I, its only true
criterion. Shame, it has been justly said, " recalled his virtu?,
and retirement unarmed her influence: the absence of wealth
banished the desire ol'it : he relinquished the dreams of ambition,
lost the thir&t of richer, and turned his immense talents to much
more nobler objects, the pursuits of natural and moral philoso*
phy; his discoveries and improvements in which will be remem-
bered and acknoii ledged, as long as iliey continue to exercise and
gratily ilie human intellect." How deeply is it lo be r^rettcd
that He, who could cjcplore ami comprehend the secret working*
of nature, should have dcbH^^ed his God-like faculties, by doscend-
ing to mean and mercenary practice's !

The Loud Tkeasurer Burleigh. The consummate
abilities of this great Minister were always directed to the main-
tenance of the true interests of the nation. M'ar he abhorred j
and, to the extent of hts power, avoided increasing the burthens
of the people for uimccessary purposes. " 1 do not love," wat
fais expression, " to see the treasury swell like a disordered spleen,
while (he other parts uf the commonwealth are in a consump-
tion,"* His private virtues were equal to his public conduct, and
his actions were regulated by temperance, moderation, industry,
and justice. His magnificctice was accompanied by hospitality,
and the sums he consumed in deeds of alms amounted to SOOt.
annually. Uis conduct, as a Judge, was exemplary and just.
" He would never," says his biogrftpiier,t " suffer lawyers to
digress or wrangle in pleading; advising counsellors to deal
truly and wisely with tlieir clients ; that if the matter was naught,
to tell them so, and not to soothe them ; and when he found such
a lawyer, he would never think him honest, nor recommend
him to any preferments, as not 6t to be a judge that would giva
laUe council."

Mr.

* Cimden'i Axaait. t CoIUoi.

BUCKING HAMSHIUB.

Mr. Qois: Gainstwrough, Few heroes of the sock and
buskin have expeticnced such various irnnsitiuDs of fortune as
this gealleman. Jle wu bred to the inheritunce of a baiiJsome
estate, of which, an the death iif his futher, Jie obtained pos-
session; but wiLs ttftiirwards ejected by an unexpected claimant,
who proved to be the real. heir. He wm then- reduced to Melt it
livelihood on the stage, und doomed for a coniiiderable linie to
represent the most inferior characters, till the death of Booth
paved the way for hie moving in a. Iiigher sphere, and ultimately,
to his exaltation m tlie inanni^enieDt of Drurj- Lane Theatre.
^Vhen the current of popular opinion set so strongly in favor of
Garrick, tliat all rivul compclition was frtiitlc«% Quia retired to
Bath on a moderate fortune. He died in that city in the yen
1766.

Caudek. This portrait of the learned inquirer into firitikh
antiquities bears strong marks of originality. He is pointed
at half length, with n nilf, black cap, and herald's coal.
Under his hand is a, delineation of his invaluable Britannia,
and in one corner of the picture his coat of arms, Air, Cough,
in his lifo of this illustrious aniiquar)', has mentioned three
portraits of him, as being the only Ones that survived the fire
of London : this piece, however, seem* to render the aisurlion
doubtful,

JoHEPM Apuisov' Kneller, The chaste und elegant author
of the Spectator presented thi^ portrait to the Marc|uis of Whar-
ton, Lord Lieutenant ol Ireland, whom he accompanied to that
country as secretary. The toUowing extracts from a genuine letter
tent by Addison to a Ladj, whom he had formerly loved, and
from whom he received certnin bints impossible to be misunder-
stood, convey a very e\idted idea of the purity of his heart, " It
would be ridiculous in me, after the late intimation you were
pleased to favor me with, to affect any longer an ignorance of
your sentiments, however opposite an approbation of them must
be to the dictates of reason and justice. This expression, I ara
sensible, may appear inconsistent in the mouth of a polite man,
but I hope it is no disgrace to a tincere one. In matters of im-
portance,

330

AMSiiint;.

portance, deticaiy ought to give way ti> truth, and ceremony miut
be sacriflccd to candor. An honest fr^ilom is the privilege of
ingenuity, and the mind which n above the practice of drceit
cftii never stoop to be guilty of JUtttcrv. You have pasaiorn,
you say. Madam ; give mo leave to answer, you have understand-
ing also: you liavo a heart suseqilible of (he (enderest impressions,
but a soul, if you cbusc to awaken it, beyond an unwarrantable
indulgence of iliem ; and let nic intreat you, for your own sake,
to resist any giddy impulse or ill-placed inclination which shall
induce you to entertain a thorighl prejudical to your honor, and
repugnant to your virtue." After mentioning the affection he
had conceived for her while single, he adds, " Time and absence,
xt length, abated a hopeless passion, and your marriage with
my patron effectually cured it. Do not. Madam, endeavour to
rekindle lliat flame ; do not destroy a Iramiuillity I have just be-
gan to taste, and blast your own honor, which has hitherto been
unsullied."

In the New Disivo Room are the following pieces.

Rembrandt'd Wife, in the character of Minerva: Rem-
brandt.

JoiiK, the last Duke of Cloves: Rembrandt. This Nobleman
was occasionally confined for insanity by his father Duke William.
In the collection of the King of Prussia there is a painting of this
delirious nobleman, called Sampson in the Prison of Gaza, which
only differs from the present picture by the omission of two
black boys in the back-ground.

Vertumnus and Pomona ; Tintoretto.

Christ rising from the Tomb: Tintoretto.

A Battle Piece : Borgognone.

St. Catherine, St. James and the Holy Lamb : Tintoretto.

A Scene from the Novel of the Castle of Olranto: Ladj
Buckingham. In this performance her l.ad)ship has evinced the
possession of original genius, and proved that she can design as
well as copy.

A Flemish Farm Yard t Mieris.

The

DVCKINOHAKSIltRE. 32]

The Eotry of Louis XtV into Paris, This curious picture was
formerly in the Palais Royal collection.

View of Pekin: Jolli. Esteemed a good and correct view of
that magnificent city. The river, which appears winding up to iti
wails, is covered with junks and other vessels. The peculiarity
of the Chinese buildings seems to be marked with accuracy, Jolli
was servant to a missionary who had free access to Pekio.

David playii^ on ihe Harp, attended by various other Musi-
cians: Lastmann, Sir Joshua Reynolds acknowledged that this
was a very curious and valuable piclurc. The artist was generally
scrupulously correct in the costume of his figures, and the draw-
ing of his vases and inatrumenls; but, perhaps, derived more
celebrity from havingbeen the master of Rembrandt, thaufrom
the productions of his own pencil. In this picture he is said tu
have introduced his own ponnut, playing on a violin.

Death of Adonis: Rubens. Adonis is represented in a beau"
tiful landscape, which is drawn and colored in a very masterly
manner; it demonstrates that the artist's excellence was not con-
fined to figures.

Orpheus and the Brutes: H. Bassan. A curious picture; in
which the artist seems to have included nearly the whole of the

Titian's Mistress in the character of Venus: Titian.

In this room there is also a sarcophagus, found on the road to
Tivoli, and brought from Rome by Lord Buckingham. It is
about three feet long, by twenty inches deep : on the top lies a
make and a human figure, finely executed. At one end is the
following inscription : D. M. Antonia Pacuvio (ilia ^cit sibi et
Ercnnio filio suo piissimo, imperatoris Trajani Ctesaris Augusts
Germanic! servo dispensatori Montaniano.

The Chapel completes this suite ol aperimcnts. Itis wsin-
scotted with cedar, and hung with crimson velvet. Over the com-
munion table is a copy of that sweet pictuie at Wilton, by Ru-
bens, called The Holy Lamb. The sides are decorated with
«ghl paintings from scripture history ; and among the ornomenls
are some fine pieces of carving by Gibbons.

Vol. I. V We

333 BVCKITfGKAMSniRE.

We cannot conclude the description of this celebrated seat,
nilhout noticing, that when it wss in the possession of Lord Cob-
ham, its festive board was attended by many of the most distin-
guished poets and literati of the age. The harmonious Pop« and
the witty Chesterfield, the plaintive Hammond* and the eloquent
Lyltleton, the ingenious Pitt and the acute West, were among
the number of its frequent visitants. Where genius and talent
were blended in such close union, we cannot but imagine, that
" the feast of reason, and the flow of soul," were happily realiied.

WATER STRATFORD,

A SHALL village near the borders of the county, wett of
Buckingham, became famous towards the conclusion of the se-
venteenth century, for the singular doctrines of its rector, Mr.
John Mason, and the absurd credulity of thi; numerous assem-
blage of common people whom the fame of his preaching attract-
ed from all parts of the neighbourhood. Every bam and
oiii-house were crowded with his infatuated followers ; many of
whom disposed of their whole property, under the persuasion
that the millenium was approaching, and that faithful believers
would shortly have all things in common. The minister himself
was a man of irreproachable life and unaffected piety, with a
competent degree of learning; but the mysteries of Calvinism and
the apocalypse, conjointly with bodily distemper, appear to
have overwhelmed his understanding, and subjected him to those
internal feelings, which caused him to assert, that he had seen
the Lord Christ, who would " appear at Water Stratford, and
come and judge the world on the Witsunday following,"

The weak minds of his auditors were so impressed with the
truth of this prediction, and firmly convinced of their own await-
ing happiness, thai they expressed their joy by the most frantic
actions. Day and night were passed in dancing and singing hal-
lelujahs; and accompanying their absurd gestures with loud
shouts of G/ory, Glory. In the midst of these rovellings of deli-

* HuBTDODil died at Slowe in tht yeir 1741, Weit wiiLordCobhim'iaepbcvr.

■ rCKINGHAHSRIBl. 323

rium, Maimi was struck speechless ; an event which Dr. Paxton,
ui eminent physician, ascribed to the violent exertion be bad
employed to enforce his arguments. He had previously told his
congregation, that when he died, he should " rise in three days
after his decease, and wilb hi^ body ascend into heaven," Even
this tale tvas credited by bis ignurant hearers; and as the loss of
- speech was the immediate prelude lo his death, they waited with
the moiit anxious expectation for its accomplishment.

Before the three days were expired, the body was interred!
and such was the rooted enthusiasm of his flock, that several of
them avowed they had seen him, and spoken with him,, after his
resurrection: nor could any of them be convinced of ihe absurdity
of his tenets, till the Reverend Mr, Rushwood, his successor, had
the grave opened, and the corpse exposed to the populace. The
web of credulity had been woven too strong to be entirely de-
stroyed, for even this evidence proved insufBcient to detach th*
minds of many of his followers from the belief of his doctrines,
^d for years elllerwards they assembled at a house in the village,
sung the same hymns, used the same ceremonies, and made the
lame extravagant gestures, as formerly. The sect became ex*
tinct about the year 17+0. " The chief thing," said a gCDtleman
in a letter to Brown Willis, *■ this new religion produced, was,
that several women had their bellies raised."*

BITLESDON,

At the time of the compilation of the domesd ay-book, belong-
ed to the Conqueror, but soon aierwards became the property of
Robert dc Maperi^hall, who, to escape punishment for having stolen
one of the King's hounds, gave it to the chamberlain of Henry the
First, Jeffrey de Clinton, who possessed great influence with the
Sovereign. De Mapershall, having married a relation of Clinton's,
received the manor back agiUQ ; but was a second time deprived
of it, during the civil wars in the reign of Stephen. It was then,
by the favor of Robert de Betlamont, Earl of Leicester, given to
Y 2 Emald

* Hiilory, &c, of ih( Hundred of Duckinghtnubir*.

32*

BUCKIKCSA

HIRE.

Ernald de Bosco, his stevrard, who in the year 1147 founded a
small abbey here of the Cistercian order, and endowed it with
the estate, which continued in possession of the monks till the
dissolution. Queen Elizabeth bestowed it on Arthur, Lord Gf«y
of Wilton, on the attainder of whose son it reverlL'd to the Crown,
and was given to the Duko of Buckingham. His succe»or sold
it to H^nry Sayer, who bequeathed it to his son John, then a
minor, who was afterwards murdexcd, on the 29th of JaDuaTT>
1712, by an attorney, who cohabited with his wile. It then de-
scended to Henry Sayer, who destroyed all the remains of the
abbey, and entirely levelled the ground on which it stood.

LUFFIELD,

SiTi7ATED on the borders of Whittlebury Forest, partly in
Northamptonshire, was, previous to the suppression of the religi*
ous houses, numbered with the monastic possessions of this coun-
ty. Robert Bossue, Earl of Leicester, in the year 1 124, founded
a Benedictine priory here, as an oblation for the souls of William
and his Queen Matilda. It received benefactions from Henry
(he First, Maud, his daughter, Edward the First, and Pope
Alexander the Third, who invested it with various privileges;
but all its endowments were insufficient for its m^ntenance ;
and, according to Brown Willis, it was given to Westminster
Abbey. At the dissolution it was granted to Sir Nicholas Throg-
morton, from whom it passed by marriafne to the Temple femily,
and now belongs to the Marquis of Buckingham. The site of the
priory is occn|»ed by a farm-house.

STONY S'lRATEORD,

Or iu immediate vicinity, appears, from the concurring evi-
dence of several antiquaries, to have been the Lactodomm of tha
Itinerary. The particular apot occupied by the Roman station
has occasioned some argument. Camden supposes it to ha«
been at this town, and observes, that the etyinologj- of Lactodo-
mm,

XUCKINGIIAMSHIHB,' 395

rum, in the British language, perfeclly agrees with its present
English name; both appellations being derived from the stones
ftnd lord across the river. Dr. Stuliely imagines that its situation
was at Old Stratford, on the Northamptonshire side of the Ouse,
which in this part separates the counties for a short distance: but
Dr. Salmon, with more appearance of probabiUty, has placed it
at Calvcrlon, an adjoining eminence, close to the old road which
led to the ford at Passenham, where Edward the Elder stationed
his army whilst he fortified Towcester.

Stony Stratford is built on the WalHng-Strect, which entering
the county near BrickhitI, crosses it in a direct line. The houses
are of free-stone, and extend for about a mile on each side the
road. The town is divided into the two parishes of St. Giles and
St. Mary Magdalen; and it has been said, that there arc not
twenty acres of land in both parishes more than those on which
the buildings arc erected. Originally it appears to have only
consisted of a few inns for the accommodation of travellers ; but
as trade increased, a stone bridge was thrown over the Ouse, and
the road being more frequented, additional houses were built for
fresh residents. On the Ipth of May, in the year 174S, it suf-
fered greatly by fire : nearly two thirds of the east side were coi\-
Bumed, together with iho body of the church* of St. Mary Mag-
dalen; but the tower is yet standing, St. Giles's church, on
the western side, was rebuilt, with tlie exception of the towcft
in a handsome manner, by Mr. Irons, architect, of Warwiclt, in
the years 1776 and 1777. It *"as formerly a chantry, valued ul
201. 2s. fid. per annum. Near this structure is a neat market-
place; though the principal business is carried on by means of
tamplcs displayed by the fanners in the public-houses. In the
days of Camden, the centre of the town was adorned with a cross,
erected on the spot where the body of Queen Eleanor had
rested; but this was demolished in the civil wars. The necessary
Y 3 regulations

* Mr. Gougb, thiaugh iniUmlinn lo ihli clrcrnnktiucc, Utta ihc town to be
Kill in pouru^DQ of Iwo churtbct. Mr. Pouunt, though nwire of tMi error,
hu been guilty of iDOthti, by conTouiiilmg their oiino, *»d making thii St,
CiUi'i whiEh <■ ictuilly St. Miiy'i.

n^ilations to preserve the pesce are made by two of the nwi;k-
boiiring magistrates, who hold their mHtingi on the fint Fridftj
in every month.

The inhabitants are divided into several religious <}enoBUDa>
IS ; but the greater number are Baptists, who have a meeting'
house ID the town. The Indepeudents have a place o{ wonhip at
Potter's Perry, a village at a small distance. The principal em-
ployment of the women is lace-making; but the chief support of
the town is derived from the passage of travellers. In June, 1786,
two very large Sunday schools were opened. These were began and
■upported by contributions of the inhabitants, and governed by the
minister, churchwardens, and a committee of subscribers. In
these schools upwards of 300 children receive the rudiments of
The income of the minister is derived from Queen
Anne's bounty, a smail donation for reading prayers on Wed-
nesdayE and Fridays, and the voluntary gifts of his parishioiters.

HANSLOPE

Is built on the summit of a hill, whence there is a gradual de-
scent on all sides, a situation that corresponds with the reputed
etymology of its name from the Saxon word Aaea, and tlt^, a
declivity. This village bonly remarkable for its church,* which
is one of the most ancient edifices in the county, and may be
considered as a rude specimen of the early Gothic architecture.
The tower is ornamented with embrasures and pinnacle. It
sustains a neat hexagonal steeple, the top of which is nearly IpO
feet from the ground. The body of the church consists of a nave
and side ailes; the latter are each supported by three pillars.
This village is generally regarded as unhealthy. One ceuGe of
disease arises from the unwholesome waters of the springs and
ponds: another has been attributed to the sedentary employ
mcnt of the females, who are mostly engaged in lace-making,
and, from the deamess of firing in the winter season, associate

for

• l

♦• - • *

. *

f •■

•• •*

I »

» »

V «

5 ^•.

'v .

fer wamith in close rooms, and consequently breBthc a very im-
pure air. The annual amount of benefactions to the parish ii
about 6201. The interest of SOOl. bequeathed by the Lady Dow-
ager Pierrepoinl, is vested in the minister and churchwardens for
the education of a certain number of boys. The living is in the
|ift of the corporation of Lincoln, which, when the parish was in-
closed about twenty years ago, received an allotment of land in
lieu of tythes. The extent of ihe parish i« nearly four miles both
in length and breadth; its population has been estimated at 1300.
The soil is mostly a strong clay.

Stoke Goldinoton is a very pleasant village, and was
formerly the place of residence of that great lawyer Sir Edward
Coke, who was sheriff of the couniy in the reign of Charles the
First, and died here in the year l634. In this village is a small
charity-school. The church has an embattled tower, a nave, two
aisles, and a chancel - the windows (tie gfithic.

G0THUR8T.'

Anciently written Gaythurst, the seat of George Wright,
Esq. stands on a rising ground nearly three miles from Newport-
Pagnell, and about half a mile from the banks of the Ouse. HiiB
mansion was erected in the latter part of the reign of Queen
Elizabeth. The principal front may be considered as a com-
plete and venerable specimen of the style of building which then
prevailed ; but some of the other parts have been modernized. The
grounds are extensive, and pleasingly disposed into spacious lawns,
one of which occupies about 130 acres. Several walks, enlivened
with prospects of the distant country, have been cut through the
woods, which are very large.

The manor of Gmhurst. at the time of the Conqueror's survey,

was held under Odo, Bishop of Baieux, by Robert dc Noucrs,

whose family became possessed of it in their own right in the

reign of Henry the Second, or possibly somewhat earlier. In

Y4 the

BDCEIHGHAMSHIBE.

the year 140ft it passed to Robert Nevyll, who married Joanna,
the sister and sole heiress of Almaric de Nouers, his two other
sisteis, Agnes and Gratia, having preferred a monastic life. In
the reign of Henry the Eighth, Maria, the only daughter of
Michael Nevyll, who had obtained ihe possession of Gothurst
on the death of her two brothers, Ijestowed it, together with her
person, on Thomas Mulsho, of Thiiigdon, in Northamptonshire.
It continued in his family till the beginning of the reign of James
the First, when -Maria, daughter and heiress of William Mulsho,
resigned herself and fortune to Sir Everard Digby, of an ancient
family in Rutlandshire, one of the most handsome and accom-
plished gentlemen of the age, hut whose religious bigotry induced
him to engage in the infernal machinations which intended the
destruction of the King and both houses of legislature by meaoi
of gunpowder. His concern in the plot led to an ignominious but
merited death; yet, with a foresight worthy of having been exerted
in a better cause, he prepared against the consequences of ill-
success, and, previous to the commission of any acts of treason,
secured his property to his infant son and heirs so effectually,
that the Crown was unable to profit by the confiscation of his
estates.* The disgrace brought on the family by the atrocious
conduct of Sir Everard, was removed by the uncommon abilities
of Sir Kenelm Digby, his successor, whose eldest son being slain
at St. NeOt's, Huntingdonshire, in the civil wars, Gotburst de-
scended to John, his second son, who left two daughters, one of
whom married Sir John Conway, of Bodruddan, in Flin&hire :
the other married Richard Mostyn, of Penbedwr, in the same
county. These gentlemen, in the year 1704, sold this roaiior,
together with Stoke Goldington, and the advowson of both
Ihe churches, to George Wright, Esq. son of Sir Nathan
Wright, the Lord Keeper, in whose posterity it slill remains.

Some portraits belonging to the former possessors still kpep a
place in the house ; but the principal part of Sir Kenelm's col-
lection was carried bj the above gentlemen into Wales. In the
parlour is a full length of Old Mr. Dioby, father to (he mis-
guided

■ Wiigbl's Amiquidct of Itullndihire.

BVCKIHGRAH9HIRB. 3^9

guided Sir Everard. He is represented in a close bkck dress,
with a laced turnover ruff, and lace at the wrist.

MAnv DioBv, hU lady, the widow of Sampson Erdeswick,
the Statt'ordsliire Antiquary, is porti'ayed in a blackdress, pinked
with red, a thin upright ruff, round kerchief, farthingale,
glovcH in her hand, and a. high fore-top adorned with jewels.

Sir Eterakd Diobv, their sun, the victim to bigotry, is
painted at full length, in a black mantle and vest, the sleeves
■lashed and pinked with white, and a large turnuvcr: une hand
holds his gloves, the other is gracefully folded in his manlle.
This gentleman was born in the year 1361, and educated with
great care, but under the direction of some Popish priests, who
early implanted the seeds of that virulence to the retormed reli.
^nn, which terminated in his disgraceful death. When first
arrested, he steadily maintained hit innocence as to the powder-
plot; but on his (rial, pleaded guilty; and endeavoured to ex-
tenuate the enormity of his crime, by explaining the motive*
which invoiced him in the conspiracy, and saying, that be had
enly acted from the suggestions of conscience. He was executed
on the 30th ol January, 1 6'06, al the west end of St. Paul's.

Sir Kenelm Digby," " the prodigy of learning, credulity,
valor, and romance." This remarkable portrait rep^<^scnt» A
young man of a large aine, in a quilled ruff, while jacket, black
cloak, purple hose, flowered belt, and u bonnet with a white fea-
ther in it. Above him, on a tablet, is the figure of a lady in a
supplicatory attitude, with a lute in one hand, ami a purse in the
other, which she appears offering to Sir Kcnelm, who is standing
near her with one band on his breast, and his face averted. Hit
air and mien shows his rejection of her addresses, and horror at
the infamy attendant on mercenary love. " The circumstance of
the lady beir^ painted alongwith him," observes Mr. Pennant, "a
m strong confirmation of the tmlh of the story related by Lloyd,
that an Italian Prince, wbp was childless, earnestly wished that

his

•The back of ihii picture ii interib*d jluA" tJ'ghy ^ hill Mr. Pennsnl imiginei,
no olbcr pcnon Chan Sx Kaidni.

330 BUCKtKORAUHHIKI.

his Princess mighl become a mother by Sir Keneltn, irhom he
esteemed as a just model of perfection,"

This gentleman, whose singular merits were mixed with many
foibles, was born in this house on the Uth of June, in the year
1603. The culture of his early youth was entrusted to Arch-
bishop Laud, who carefully bred him up 10 (he Protestant reli-
gion. He was afterwards admitted a gentleman commoner of
Gloucester Hall, Oxford, and soon became eminent for the
strength of his talents, and the universality of their application.
Having pursued his studies with great advantage for soroe time,
he made the tour of the continent, and, on his return to Eng-
land, was knighted, and soon after distinguished as the possessor
of a famous nostrum, since called the Sympathetic Powder,
whose virtues are registered among the observations of the great
Chancellor Bacon, On the accession ofCharles the First, he was
promoted to several naval offices; and having received an admi-
ral's commission, was sent with a small Heet into the Mediter-
ranean, where he displayed much gallantry in the attack on the
Venetian fleet in the bay of Scanderoon. About the year \6S6
he became a convert to the church of Rome, and vindicated his
dereliction of principle in a small pamphlet. This change
procured him many Catholic friends, and great influence, which
he afterwards exerted in raising a libera) subscription among the
Papists for the use ofCharles the Fint. At the commencement
of the civil war, he was imprisoned by order of the Parliament in
Winchester-house ; but was liberated in l643, through the media-
tion of the French Queen, and went to France, where he publish-
ed several ingenious treatises. On the ruin of the King's affairs,
he returned to England, to concert measures for the safety of
his property; but was obliged by the Parliament to quit the
country, under penalty of losing both life and estate. At this
time he appears to have acted as chancellor to the Queen Dow-
ager, Henrietta Maria, who shortly afterwards sent him on an
embassy to Rome. When the reins of government were assumed
by Cromwell, Sir Kcnelm again ventured to his native country,
and was treated by the Protector with kindness, from endeavour-

BUCEINOHAHSHIBE. 331

ing to conciliate the Caiholics in his favor. This versatility of
conduct seems to have done him but Hitle injury with the rainis-
tcrs uf Charles the Second; for be was well received at court iand,
on the incorporation of the Royal Society, appointed one of the
council; an honor which he only enjoyed for a short period: the
violence of a disorder with whicn ho had been lung afflicted (the
■tone) deprived him of life in the year 1665, on the very day h«
had completed his sixty-second year.

Lady Vexbtia Asastatia Digbt, the beloved* wife of
the above gentleman, and daughter to Sir Edward Stanley, of
Tonge Castle, Shropshire, is portrayed in a Roman habit, ac-
companied by two of her sons, who appear of a boyisii age, and
are dressed according tu the fashion of the times. The Isdy is
represented with one hand placed on a pair of doves, and lh«
other handling a serpent, ns in the picture at Windsor.

Sir Nathan Wright, Lord Keeper, painted at full length
in bis robes. This gentleman received his appointment on the
precipitate dismission of Lord Somers in the year 1700, the viru-
lence of parly not allowing lime for reUection on ihc impro-
priety ot the choice. Sir Nathan retained his place till 1703,
when be was disgracefully dismissed, though more from deficiency
of talents than want of integrity.

Si& Joseph Jekyll, in a huge wig and robes. Sir Joseph
was a 6rm advocate for constitutional liberty, and a man of
' great abilities and character. On the accession of George thtt
First, he was made Master of the Rolls, and a Privy Counsel-
lor. He died in the year 1738.

Here are also two beautiful busts of Lady Digby in brass.
One of them represents her in the habit of the times; an elegant
laced handkerchief fails over her shoulders, leaving her neck bare;
her hair is curled and braided, and on the hind part of her head
formed into a circle, with flowing locks beneath. On this bust

* " I im (old," iiyi Mr. Pnuunl, " tbit the grat iniil, or Ptmalia
■a Ihc Dcighbouriag wtKidi, which li iu moU louthcm rciidence in d
It U of exotic origin, snd, according lo icjdition, wu introilucnl by Si
ic (or the UM of hU Udy."

333

UCKINGH

[sniRB.

is inscribed, " Uxorem vivam amare voluptas, dofuDctam, reli-
gio." The other is on the model of ihe antique, the head dressed
in the saine manner, only bound in a. filUt: the drapery covers
her breast, but so artificially as not to destroy the elegance of

At a little distance from th« house is the church of Gothurst,
a neat modern edifice, it having been rebuilt in pursuance of the
directions of the will of George Wright, Esq. son of the Lord
Keeper. The figures both of father and son are stationed near
the entrance of the church ; the first in his robes, the other in a
plain gown; with their heads covered with enormous maxble
wigs.

Tyeingham, a small hamlet on the opposite side of the Onse^
was formerly the residence of the very ancient family of Tyring-
ham, one of whom gave the church to the priory of Tickford,
near Newport -Pagnell, as early as the year 118?. Sir Roger
Tyrin^hain attended Edward the First into Scotland; and his son
was sheriff of the county in the lifteentb year of lidward the
Second. Sir John Tyringham was condemned unheard, and
beheaded in 146l, with several others, for hnving been present
when the Duke of York was killed at the battle of Wakefield.
The Duke was slain by an unknown hand ; but the violence of
the times occasioned the above soiferers to be proscribed for his
murder. It continued in this family till lb85, when, by the
death of Sir William Tyringham. it devolved to John, son of
Edward Backwcll.' Alderman of London, who had married his
only daughter. The estate is now in the possession of Mr. Praed,
who has taken down the ancient manor-house, and erected a
large handsome edifice in its stead.

OLNEY,

* Thii grnOcmin ii Bid by Griinitet 10 have been I binkcr, orgrcal ibility,
indiiilTT, integrity, ind eilentive credit, but mined by the infamouj project of
thutting up the exchequer in the reign of Charla the Setond. He died in Hoi-
Imd i but wai embalmed, and inlerrtd in the old church of TyriDghim, with
1 glass placed over hii face.

lUCKIKGlIAMSHniE.

OLNEY,

Tbk most northern town in Buckinghamshire, consists of
one long street. The houses are built with stone, but principally
roofed with thatch, a mode of covering that greatly contributed
to the spreading of a fire which happened here in th? year 17SS,
when forty-three divelling-houses were consumed, besides many
barns and other building. Since this event, most of ihc new
houses have been prudently covered with tiles. The church is
a spaciau<< fabric, ornamented with a tower and a very lof^y spire.
Lace-making is the chief employment of the inhabitants.

The residence of the late eminent poet Cowfer was about a
mile from this town, from whose contiguous scenery many de-
scriptions in his elegant poem of the Task are known to have been
derived. The beautiful simplicity and truth of the following ex-
tracts, from the book Inlitled the Sofa,- must be evident to every
person acquainted with the nciglibourhood of Olney.

Then, fu( rooted in chclr btnk,
Sland, otvci oveilook'd, oui fiv'Tiieclnu.
That szseen ihc hcrdimin'i lolildry hull
While tai beyond, aiid ovenhwiit Ibe xream,
Thil, ■■ with mollea glut, inlsyi the vile,
Tbe lisping land rccrdti into the cloudi ;
Duplaying on iu varied tide ifae grace
Ot hedge-row bciutict numbcrlui, iquire low'i,
Till ipirc, from which the lound of cheerful belli
JuU undulalel upon ihe ILit'ning ear,
GiDva, hcalhi, and imoaking vllligei, remate.

Deicendlng now [liut ciutioui lesl too faitj
A tuddcn >tccp, upon a ruitic birdge
We pau a giilph, in which (be wiUowi dip
rheic pendant buughi, itooping n if (0 drink.
Here, ancle deep in mou and )low'ry thyme,
We mount again, md Fc*l at ev'ry itep
One foot half lunk in hillocks green and loft,
Raii'd by the mole, the miner of the toil.
He, not lulikc (he great orc* of mankind,
Diiiiguret eanh; and plouing in the dark,

Thai may record the m

BtrCKtMGHAHtBIRE.

In the succeeding lines ihe poet, from his " speculative heigJit,"
surveys ihe sheepfold, the hay-stack, and liie woodlands, and
concludes this part of bis description with these words

O'er ih«e, but br beyond (i ipicloui mip
Of hill ind viUiy intetpol'd betweoi)
The Outc, dividmi; the wcll-witcr'd laad.
Now gliiten in ihe lun, and nnw rclim.
At buliful, yet impilieat lo be seen.

A considerftble portion of the life of Cowper was passed under
the pressure of the most extreme despair, his morbid sensibility
baving induced him to cherish the dreadful idea that he was
Jbrsaken bi/ hii Creator; though he had lived in ihc continued
practice of all the virtues. His waking reflections and midnight
slumbers were equally haunted by the dread of absolute reprobB*
tion ; and even in the hour of death, his diiiordercd understanding
refused to admit of comfort. " O spare me! spare me!" was his
reply to a friend and relative, who assured him ihat happiness
■waited his disaolution, " you know, you know it to be false!"
On the 3Sth of April, 1800, he sunk into a state of apparent
insensibility, which continued for twelve hours, when he expired
without either moving a limb or heaving a sigh.

AtLAVENDON, a village about two miles beyond Oiney, a
monastery for Prcmonstratcnsian canons was founded by John de
Bidun in the reign of Henry the Second, and dedicated to St,
Mary and John the Baptist. The endowments of de Bidun, and
some other benefactors, were confirmed by Henry the llurd.
, Its annual income at the dissolution amounted to 791. 13s. 8d.

NEWPORT PAG NELL

Is an ancient and populous market-town, pleasantly situated
in the north of the county on the banks of the Ouae, and divided
into two unequal parts bj the small river Lovet. Its name appi»n
to be derived from the Paj^anels, or Painels, who obtained it from
William Fite-Aunculph, in the reign of William the Second, and
kept possession of it for upwards of a century. In the time of Ri-

chiri

■UCXIMCIIAHSBiaE,

cbard Ca:ur de Lion this manor became the property of John de
Someric, who marneil the daughter and heiress of Gervase Paganel,
and continued in his family till the reign of Henry the Third,
when Roger de Somorie was dispossessed of his lands, for neglect-
ing to obey a summons to receive the honor of knighthood. It
was Ihen granted for life to Walter de Kirbham, with several
valuable privileges, and liberty of tallage, in the same form as if
il had remained in the hands of the King; but it afterwards reverted
to the Soraeries, and in the reign of Edward the Second was con-
veyed to Thomas de Botetourt by his marriage with Joan, the
nster of John dc SomeKe, the last male heir. From thia period
the succession is unknown.

Leland and Camden have both mentioned a castle that formerly
itood at Newport PagncU, but of which no traces are discovera-
ble, nor particulars to be found, but (hat it remaned a place of
itrength bll the lime of the civil wars. Three hospitals were found-
ed here in early limes. The one endowed by John de Somerie,
in the year 1380, for six poor men and women, still survived
having been founded anew by Anne of Denmark, and from her
named Queen Anne's hospital. The church is an ancient and
spacious edifice, dedicated to the saints Peter and Paul, and
standing on an eminence that commands an extensive view over
the surrounding country, which produces excellent com and
plenty of fine game. In the church-yard arc seven alms-houses,
built and endowed by John Rivis, citiien and draper of l>>ndon,
and affording a comfortable asylum to four men and three women.
Besides the advantages of these charitable institutions, the dis-
tresses of the poor arc mitigated by the application of various
donations and legacies bequeathed for that purpose. The dis-
senters from the established church in this town, are principally
Presbyterians and Anabaptists, who have each a meeting-house.
Tlie laboring classes are chiefly supported by lace-making.
" There is scarcely a door to be seen, during summer, but what
is occupied by some industrious pale-faced lass ; their sedentary
trade forbidding the rose to bloom in their sickly cheeks,*"

* PbhuM. Thli gcDilemin obicrvd, thai the Ikc miiiiilaclure wn iioIcd from
J the ficmiogi.

336

BUCXtNCKAUfiHIRE.

It has been said, that more lace is manufactured in this town and
ite Deigbbourliood than in a.11 the rest of £n£;land : on every
Wednesday a market ii held I'or its sale. Great quantities Bre
abo sold in the fairs here, of which there are no fewer than six
held annually. The inhabitants are supplied irith «atcr from the
Ouse, by means of an hydraulic mncbine.

At TiCKFORD, near Newport Pagnell. there-was formerly a
cell oi Ciuniac monks, founded and enduwed by Fulk Paganell
in the reign of William Rufus, and invented with the power of
punishing criminals by Henry the Second. The possessions of
this monastery, valued at 1261. 14s, yeajly, were granted to Cai^
dinal Wolsey, to be appropriated towards the building ajid en-
dowment of his two colleges at Ipswich and Oxford ; but, on the
disgrace of that minister, were bestowed on Queen's Collie in
the latter city. This grant was afterwards resumed, and the
lands remained with the Crown till James the First sold them to
a phvscian named Atkins. The site of the priory is now occupied
by a neat modern house, called The Abbey.

MiDDLETON, or Milton Ketnes, is only remarkable for
having been the birth-place of Francis Atterbury, Bishop of Ro'
chaster, and the rectory of the celebrated philologist. Dr. Wil-
liam Wotton, who, during his abode here, published his " Re-
flections on ancient and modern Learning," and several other
pieces : but, from deficiency of economy, was obliged to retire
to Wales, where he died in the year 17S€, aged 6o.

Francis AxTiiaBWRT was born on the 6th of March, l662.
He received the rudiments of education at Westminster school,
whence ho was ducted a student of Christ Church, Oxford, and
soon afterwards entered the lists of controversy, by a vindi-
cation of Luther against the attacks of the Romanists. About
the same period he greatly assisted the Honorable Charles Bnyle in
his dispute with Bentley respecting the genuineness of the Epistles
of Phalaris. Oxford, however, was too small a theatre for the
vigor nf his talents, which he resolved to display in the metropolis,
where the attiaciiona of his elocjuence soon introduced him to
the court, and he became chaplaia to King William and Queen
Mary, To trace him through his several promotions might be
^^ tliotigbt

BtrCKIKflHAMSHIKE. 337

thought tedious; we shall only observe, therefore, that in the
year 1713 he was made flishoj) of Hoehester and Dean of West-
minster; but all his hupes of higher dignities were destroyed by
the death of Queen Anne. In his capacity as dean, he officiated
at the coronation of George the First, and proposed to resign the
accustomed perquisites on that occasion ; but the offer was re-
jected by the Sovereign, with some indications of dislike to his
person. This treatment co-operating with the tenor of his opi-
nions, led him to join the opposers of the ministry, whose mea-
sures he continued to combat with singular vehemence till the
year 172'2, when he was arrested, and imprisoned, on the charge
ol being privy to a conspiracy for restoring the Pretender. The
proceedings against him were accompanied with many acts of
illegality; but the administration having succeeded in passing a
bill which gave them the necessary authority, he was banished
for life, and left the kfngdoro in June 1723. From this period
till his death, in the year 1732, he resided at Paris; and a short
time previous to his decease, published a vindication of himself,
Bishop Smalridge, and Dean Aldrich, from the aspersion of
having corrupted Lord Clarendon's Manuscript History of the
Rebellion. Bishop Atterbury was a man of fine talents, and
much learning; but his fondness for polemical divinity is ap-
parent from the successive controversies in which be engaged.
About a mile south-east of Milton Keynes, is Wavendou
Heath, where the pits of fuller*^ earth mentioned ia page 39
are situated.

FENNY STRATFORD,

Is so called from the situation of the surrounding lands,
though the town itself is built on the rising of a hill. The houses
are disposed into two streets; one on the main road, or Watling
Street; the other on the cross road, leading to Aylesbury, The
north side is in the parish of Simpson : the west in that of Blechc-
ley.' The skirts of the town arc laved by the little river Lutield,
over which there ia a lai^c stone bridge. The chapel, which
stands in the paritb of Blechclcy, was rebuilt and endowed at the

Voi^A 7- expense

expense of the antiquary Mr. Bronn Willis and his friends. The
ceiling is ornamented with the arms of all the persons whose
subscriptions amounted t« ten pounds or upwards. Wr. Wil-
lis, at his own request, was buried in this chapel, which be
dedicated to St. Martin, from respect to his grandfather, Or.
Thomas Willis, who purchased the manors of both BJecheley
and Fenny Stratford of the last Geoi^e Villars, Duke of Buck-
ingham. The inhabitants derive thi?ir chief support from the
passage of travellers, and the manufacture of white thread-
lace. The south-cast entrance to the town has been lately im-
proved by a new road, and its trade increased by the proximity
of the Grand Junction Canal.

Blecheley is asmall village about two miles west of Fenny
Stratford. In the church tliere is a very jinc alabaster tomb to
the memory of Richard, Lord Grey, of Wilton, who, with his
son Reginald, and Edmund, his great grandson, were interred
in this fabric. On the tomb is the figure of Lord Richard, armed.
Round the lower part of the armour is a collar of jewels, in the
midst of which is a small shield, with the cross of St. Geoi^e, in
allusion to his having been made knight of the garter by Richard
the Siicond. He appears with cropt hair, and without
beard. On the lingers of his left hand are several rings.

This manor, with the adjoining one of Whaddon,
chased by the I.ord Greys of the Pigot family ; and o
tainder of William, Lord Grey, who was imprisoned on the charge
of being an accomplice with Sir Walter Raleigh, was granted by
James Ihe Fii'st to his favorite Sir George Villars, who waa
created Baron Whaddon, and aftcnvards Duke of Buckingham.
On the death of the son and successor of this nobleman, it was
purchased by John Sclby and (he above Dr. Willis, who almost
pulled down the old seat of the Greys. His grandson, Brown
Willis, inhabited the remainder. From him it descended to
John Willis Fleming, Esq. but Whaddon Chase fell into the
possession of the Selbies;* but was bequeathed by the last mtle
heir, to William Lowndes, Esq. of Winslow. An original picture
of Dr. Willis is bow at Whaddon Hall. Bicuard

■ Cough'i AddiiiDiis lo Camden,

RicRARD Cox, Bishop of Ely, was born at Whaddon in the
year 1499. Having early embraced the principles of the Refor-
mation, his conduct gave offence to the ruling powers, who cora-
'inillect him to prison, whence he was released through the inter-
cession of Archbishop Cranmer, and was made master of Eton
ichool. In the reign of ( jueen Mary he was again imprisoned, and
on his liberation withdrew to Germany, where he rcmaijicd till
the accession of Elizabeth, who promoted him to the bishopric of
Ely. In this station his conduct was praise-worthy and just; but
the arts of his enemies, and his opposition to the principles which
condemned the clergy to celibacy, excited the anger of the Queen,
and occasioned him to ask permission to resign. His request be-
ing acceded to, the forms of resignation were actually drawn out;
but as no respectable divine could he found to accept his digni-
ties, he was suilered to retain them till his death. He died in
the eighty-second year of his age. The liturgy now used was
partly composed under his inspection.

WINSLOW

Is a small marhet town, situated on the brow of a bill ; and
though of very remote origin, it having been given by King Offa
to the abbey of St. Alban's, in a council held at Verulam in the
year 794, it possesses no objects that can interest the antiquary.
The church is a large pile of building, consisting of a nave, two
aisles, and a chancel, with a square tower embrasured, at the
west end. The houses are mostly brick, and principally inha-
bited by laborers and iacc-makers.

Stew K LET is a small village, rendered interesting to the anti-
quary by its very ancient church, which is of Saxon workmanship,
and mentioned by Dr. Stukeley as the oldest and most entire he
ever saw. The shape is a parallelogram, 90 feet by 34. Half
the length is allotted to the nave, and one fourth 10 the chancel,
which is vaulted with stone. The remaining space is occupied
by two round arches, supporting a square tower of the same di-
Mensions, [lie upper part of which is surrounded with thirty-two
• Z2 unall

■ribI) intefMcting drcular arches, attached to the mlt Tiit
-windows are all small, and the raouldtngs ornamented with
figsag sculpture. The principal entrance is on the west dde,
which is more embellished than any other part. On ibis nda
there are three arches. The centre arch forms the door-way, and
is supported hy two pillars on each side, with sqoaic ca^tab
and xigiag moulding.*

USCOMBE HOUSE,

Trk seat of Sir JoniUhan Lovett,t Bart, is about three milei
east of Stewkley, llie estate has belonged to the present hndly
for upwards of 300 yean, and is said to derive its name from a fbr^
tiliCBtion raited in the adjoining woods, and the comk, or valley,
which runs from the front of the house. This mansion stands
on the broW of a gentle eminence, which commands a fine view
over the villages of Stewkley and Soulbury, and the north part of
the county. The building is prinripally composed of brick,
and covered with a compofiition. It occupies three sides of a
<]uandrangle ; the fourth side is partly taken up with a small cha-
pel. The front of the house, measuring about l66 feet, is orna-
roeiited with four circular and two square turrets, rising from the
ground, and projecting before the building. The whole is sui^
rounded with embrasures, and assumes a castellated appearance

The

* The tn of the titction of ihii ftbric ii unknown. Some workmen, who
rquiiredthe roafof the chined, after it had been dtmigcd by ■ itorm ■ few yon
ago, arc reporied lo have ohserved the date 1006 iuciibed on i Kinic. Thtl
information, however, mint be ngarded a> doubtful, ii the rood diligent- tn-
quiren have hithcno been unable to trace the inttnduclion of Arabic numenli
inln England to an earlier peiiod than lOfp. A view oF Ihiicbnrcfabu bee*
given in Groie's Antiquiliei.

t Tliii name has been variouily written in difftrenl a^. A maniucripl mt-
moimduin of the family itaiei, that William, the son of Richard daHkattt
came into England with William the Conqueror, and that the proent hmSBf
trace their deiceni from the above William, to whom the Comjitaar gfrf .
certain poitioaa of Indi in Bcdfbr^bitc, Bcrkihire, L

C Ldooi^UM^^ n

The apartments arc deeoruled with severdl portraits : the follow-
ing appear to be those which most desGrvt atlcntiou.

TiTvi Oates: halt' length, with a. bald foriihoad, and full
face. The cold-blooded and matignant perjuries ot this wretch
so impressed the nation with the belief of the plot which he as-
cribed to the Papists, of assasiiinaiiiig the Sovereign (Charles the
Second) and subverting the constitution, thai many were con-
demned and executed un the most absurd and coDtradictory
evidence, ihuugli not one of them cither acknowledged the justice
of their sentence, or the reality of the conspiracy. His audacity
even led hira to include the Queen in the dreadful charge, but
this accusatioit the King refused to admit; and after some time,
when the heated pa:«sions of the people had been allo»ed to
subside, the testimony of Oates became generally discredited, and
he was convicted of perjury. He was sentenced to perpetual
imprisonment, to tland in the pillory four times a year, and to-
be whipt on two successive days by the common hangman. " A
sentence," says Burnet, " too little if he wa< guilty, and
too much if he vies innocent." Ha guilt, however, cannot
be doubted, and posterity will execrate bis infamy to the latest
ages.

Sakah, Ducn&ss of MAKLitoRouGH:Sir Godfrey Kneller.
A half length.

Hugo Grotius, represented sitting in a study, with a large
book before him.

Francis Russel, second Earl of Bedford. This is a small
head, with the dale 1555. This illustrious personage tilled seve-
ral great offices in the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth; and

was much celebrated lor hi

hoKpiialiiy. He

died in tlie year

1585.

Archbishop San

croft: half length.

Sib Edwakd Mo

NTAG

UE; Holbein. A

n iuscription on

this picture relates, that he

was" Chief Justii

e of both benches.

privy couneellor to iw

Kings, one of the executors lo Henry the

Eighth; obit A. D.

)55<i.

' This is a thre

e quarter length.

painted on pannel. S

rEdw

ard is portrayed i

his judge's rubes.

Eleanor

3M SnCEINGHAMSHIKX.

Elbakor Gwynn: Sir Peter Leiy: three quarter length.
This sprightly' female is represented wiili a pretly face, and dark
brown hair; her head reclining on ber right band, and her
dress decorated with a profusion of rich lace.

IVINGHOE

' Is & smalt market-town, situated on the east side of Ibe coun-
ty, between Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire. TTie surroundit^
soil is rather unfruitful ; a circumMance, probably, that has re-
tarded those improvemenu which the considerable antiquity
of this place would otherwise have given reason to expect.
Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester, founded a Benedictine
nunnery here as early as llfiO. Henry the First endowed it
with lands; but the revenues were very inconsiderable, the an-
nual receipts at the dissolution amounting to no more than 14l,
3s. iPd. yet on this scanty pittance no fewer than nine female*
depended for their daily food. According to the tradition
which accompanies the quaint distich,

" Tiing, Wing, »(id Ivinghot, did io
" For Btiking the BlackL Prince « blow,"

those places were formerly in the possession of the Hampden ia-
mily ; but what degree of credit is to be attached to these linei
we know not, for the particulars of the circumstance to which
they relate have eluded our inquiries.

AsiiBKiDGE, a small village between Ivingfaoe and Trin^ ia
Hertfordshire, is reported to have possessed a royal palace in
very early limes. This, when the estate became the proper^- of
Edmund, F-arl of Cornwall, son to Richard, King of the Romans,
was converted into a college loi Btinhonimes, or monks who fol-
lowed the rule of St. Augustine, and endowed with the manois
of Ashbridge, Gaddesilen, and Hemcl-Hempsted. In the year
1291 a parliament was held here by Edward the First, and though
but of short continuance, was distinguished for a spirited debate
on the original and necessary me of fines. After the dissolution,

the

BDCKt?IOHAMSUIItE. 34S

the monastery again seems to have become the seat of royally ;
and Norden Jescribes it as the place " wherein our most worthy
and ever famous Queen Elizabeth lodged as in her owne, being
a more statelie house." This Sovereign, in the 17th of her reign,
granted it to John Dudley and John Ayscough, who within a
fortnight conveyed it to Henry Lord Cheyney, whose Lady sold
it to Ralph Marshal, by whom it was conveyed to Randolph
Crew and oihera, and soon afterwards granted to Egerton, Lord
Eliesmere, ancestor to the present Duke of Bridgewater; several
of whose family are buried in the neighbouring church of Little
Gaddcsden. The park is live miles in circumference, pleasingly
varied with hill and dale, and furnished with some very fine oak
and beech trees. The ancient abbey' has been lately taken
down: its site, we are informed, is intended to be occupied by
a, magnificent family mansion.

AYLESBURY,

The Mghibury of the Saxons, was originally a strong British
town, which maintained its independence till the year 571, when
it was reduced by Cuthwulf, brother to Cealwin, King of the West
Saxons. About the year 600 it became famous as the burial-
place of St. Osith, who was born at Quarendon, but beheaded in
Esses by the Pagans. Her relics being interred in the church at
Aylesbury, are said to have performed many niiracles, and occa-
sioned a religious house to be erected to her memory on the spot
where the parsonage now stands. St, Osith, however, was not
the only female from whom the town derived consequence in the
dark ages of superstition and imposture; the sisters Editha and
Eadburga are mentioned by historians aa contributing to its cele-
brity. " Editha," says Camden, " having obtained it of her
ikther Frewald, at the persuasion of certain religious, renounced
the world and her husband, and taking the veil, acquired the
Z 4 reputation

* A view of ihiiUiucturc hu beoi engraved in the KCond volume of the
Topognphet, -which contiuu some particular) of tilt Egrtton family, and i
foU Kcouol o( the abbey.

j||h BUCKINGHAMSHIRB.

nputatipD of MDcti^ in tbat age so fruitfid for Mints, witL
tl)« ftdditioiial reputation of raincles." How it descended froiB
tiiis lady we are not informed; but it was aftenranb a ntaoor
n^yal, belon^ng to William the Conqueror, wko invested his
&vorites with some of the lands, under the ungula^ tenure of
providing straa for his bed' and chamber, and tiret ttU for
his use, in winter; and in summer, straw, rushes, and two '
greeufeese; tkrkt every year, if h^ should vi»t Aylesbury so,
<^eq, In the reign of Henry the Eighth, the mapor was pur-
chased t>y Sir John Baldwin, Chief justice of the Common Pleas,
<]f the heir of .the Ear) of Wil(s and Ormopd, to whom ft had
«]escended from the Fits-piers, EarU of Essejc It sAfrwanls
Itficaaie the property of the Packingtons,t one of whom marrif^
tiie daughter of Sir John Saldwju, and has regulvly ^escepded to
the present Sir ,Iohn Paclfington; hyt ^ [afelyJieeii wiv¥rtis*4
for sale.

This town is situated near the centre of the county, on a small
eminence, rising gradually on all sides, in the rich and extensive
tract distinguished as the Vale i^ AyUibury. Lel^nd describes
the town as being built with timber; but since his time it has been
greatly improved, and most of the houses are now of brick,

The

■ StTtw, u ippeinfrom ihe founh volume of the Ai^hlcologi*, waliucdfof
the King'i bed lo luely u ihe (Cign of Hairy the Eighth.

-t How cDinplclely ihc ibwo wii in pouniion of thii fimily will (ppor
from the Fullo wing rtmirkible letter, preurved ioihe Chipelolthe Rollt,>mQD|
the Kliirns of Pililidment wriu of the rouneenth of ElieibeCh. >' To *U
ChrisLian people, to Mhnm thii prettnl wiiting ihallcomti I, ptmcDo^oTHT
Packinctoh, lite wlff of Sir John Ptckington, Knight, lord tod owner of
the town of Aylsbuiy, icnd greeting. Know ye me, the u id DoaoTKr
pACKiHCTOH, lo luve chow), niDicd', and appointed my truity md well
beloved Thomas Litciiiield lod Geotge Burden, Etqrs. to be my Burgeuei of
my Mid town of Aylesbury. And whatever the uid Thonni ind George,
Burgcues, ihall do in the icrvice oF the Qunn's Highneu in ihit prevnt Pirli»;
meni to lie holdep at Westminiier, the Sth of May next eniuing the date hereof,
1 the same Dorothy Paekington do nlify wid ■pprove to be of my own icl u
fully and wholly at if I were wimeu or present there. In wimeu whereof,
to these prei^ti, I Iiave set my sell, thii fth day of May, in (he 14th year of
Iheieignof my Soverdgn Lady Etiiibcth, by the Grace of Cod, of Ei^Und,
' france, and IreliDd, Queen, ix."

UCKl

oham<:hikk. 345

The improvements were principally owing lo the munificence and
interest of Sir John Baldwin, who ereclei! several puhlic build-
ings, procured the assizes to be transferred from Buckingham,
Biid raised a causeway, three miles in length, on one of the
approaches to the town where the I'oad waa miry and dangerous.
The county goal is still at Aylesbury; but the summer assises
were restored to BuckiDgham through the exertions of Lord
Cobham and the GrenviUe family.

Aylesbury consists of several streets and lanes, irr^ularly
built. The town-hall is a handsome modern structure ; bnt ihe
market-pkce is a ruinous quadrangular building, which disSgures
the centre of the town. The church is a spacious and ancient
structure, built in the shape of a cross, with a low tower riMng
at the intersection of the nave and transept ; yet, from its ele-
vated sittiatioD, when compared with the surrounding flal, seen
for many miles everj' way. In the church is a handsome organ,
given to the parish by a lady. The pulpil is ornamented with
curious carved work. In the south transept is a table of the do-,
nations given lo the town for charitable purposes, and appropri-
ated to siipply Ihe poor with food and raiment, and the rising
generation with instruction. The church-yard is very large, and -
disposed into several walks, planted with double runs of trees.

Williuin the First made the church prcbcndal to Lincoln,
whence Robert Grosthead, bishop of that see, in 1235 removed,
and gave it lo a residing rector: hut Richard de Gravesend, ad-
vanced to the above bishopric in 1270, again made it prcbendal j
but at the same time prudently directed that the income of tbo
resident vicar should exceed that of the prebendary. The house
for Gray Friars, mentioned by Leland, on the south side of the
town, was founded by James, Earl of Ormond, about rho time of
Richard the Second, On llie dissolution it was ijranied lo Sir
John Baldwin, and valued at 31. 2i. 5J. per annum.

This town was made a borough by charier, and empowered to
send members to Parliament on Ihe 14th of January, 1553-4,
Its government was then vested in a bailiff, nine aldermen, and
twelve burgesses, who were lo elect the representatives : but this
Forporation being dissolved for neglect, the police is now main-
tained

346 BUCKtMaBAMSniRB.

tained by constables, and the right of election vpsted tn tlie
householders not receiving alms. The number of voters i? about
3oO. The reli^oys denominations consist of Methodists, Pres-
byterians, and Baptifils, who have each a meeting -house. The
elevation of the town above the level of the vale frequently occa-
sions the inhahitants (o be distressed for water. The market is
well supplied with com, calves, ducks, &c.* and its six annual
fairs for the sale of cattle are well attended.

The parish of Aylesbury is the lai^est and the most fniilfiil in
the county. It includes the hamlei of Walton, and, according
to the enumeration lately made by order of the legislature, con-
tuns 675 inhabited houses, 22 uninhabited, and 3083 men,
miinen, and children.

QUA REN DON.

Abol't two miles north-west of Aylesbury, was the aticient re-
sidence of the Lees, afterwards Earls of Litchfield, but contains
nothing deserving of rernurk, except the monuments in the
chapel, which present a sad picture of neglect and dilapidation.
The body of this fabric is divested of its seats, ceiling, and almost
every fragment that could preserve the memorj' of the holy pur-
pose for which it was designed; nor is the chancel in a much
better stale ; though its rich and elegant monuments ought to
have insured it protection with every mind over which taste or
sentiment

* Miny people in tbu tmrn ind iU uighhourhood derive lupport fiom
■heir pcculiir ilull in breeding ind rearing ducki. For the grUlficiiion of tnifi-
clal winti, chcy rrvcne the aider of nituic, and, by ) tesuiciioa of food, and
olhei meani, pievenl ihe hm from laying till ihe monihi of Ocutfcr wd
Ncivrrnhcf. Some weeks prcvioui to (he liine they wiihihcm lo >ii, (he duck*
ire fed wilh ilimulKing proviiloni, and the eggs being ready, the hto begiiu
sitting, and it fiequenlly obliged to eoDtlnue on the neM tiJI ihne tucuiaive
bioodi are hitched. By this treiuncnt the poor animal ii generally cxhiuited,
mil diei under her eompultive duty. When the young leave the ibell, Ibey iic
pliccd near a tiie, and nuned with ptniculit care. By iheie mdbodi nuny
ducklirgi are lenl at Chriilmu to the ineiropalii, where ihey hive been known
to kU from fifteen ihiUingi to a guinea ■ couple

BVCKINGtIAMflKIRI.

tentimcnt had any influence. This place claim* our attention,
to preserve it upon record, before the ravage? of time, and the
practices of mischievous boys, liave ■aitilli/ defaced the inscrip-
tions, and destroyed the tombs.

On a birtck marble tablet, fixed against the vfall at the upper
end of the chancel, is this inscription :

1611 — Mcmotia Sicium,
Sir Hinky Lie, Knight of ihc molt noble Order of the Ganer, lOn of
Sir Anthony L«, irxl Dime Margirrt hii wife, diujhwr la Sir Hmry Wat,
tb>t fiithful ind coniunt urvint ind counccllor (0 the two Kingi af funout
memory, Henrio the Seventh ind Eighth, He oveA hit birth and childhood to
Kent, and hit highty honorable uncle Sir Thomai Wiat at Arlingioo Culte, hi*
youth totheeourt and King Henry (he Eighth, to whole Krvice he waiiworaat
fourteen yein old, hi> prime of manhood (after thecalm of that bleit Prince Ed-
ward the Sixth) lo the wan of ScotJind in Queen Maries dayi. till called home
by herwhoie juddcn death gave beginning to the glorioui reign of Queen Elii*-
beth. He gave himielf lo voyage and travel into the Bouiitbiog jutet t<f France,
Italy, and Germany, where loon putting on aU Ihoae abilitieithat become the back
of honor, eipecially ikilE and proof in armi, he lived in grace and gracing the
courts of (he moit renowned piincet of thai warlike age, returned home charged
with the reputation of a well-formed traveller, and adorned with thoie flowcn
of knigh«hood, couiteiy, bounty, and valor, which quickly gnvc forth their
fruit ai we!l in the field to (lieadvaniageU onceof the two divided parti of ihi*
bappily united itale, and to both iboie princei hii Sovereigni lueceuively in
that expcdil|pn into Scotland in the year 1573, when in goodly equipage he
lepaired to the liege of Edinburgh, there i^uartenag before the caitle, and com-
manding one of the batleriei, he thared largely in ihe honor of nviibing ibM
maiden fort ; u alu in court, where he ihone in all tboie fair paru which became
hii proteuion and vowt, honoring hit highly gracioui Miiiieu with railing ihoK
later otympiadi of her court jusu and loumaincnu, (thereby trying and (raining
the counier in thote exercises of arnii, that keep the penon bright, and iteel lo
hard mes> (hat by toft eaienuu and wears) wherein still l.imiciried and triumph-
ed, carryingaway Ihe spoils of grace from hii Sovereign, and renown from the
world, ai the (aiiat man b[ armi and most complete counier oF his timei, (ill lio.
gled out by the choice hand ai his Sovereign Miiireisfoi meed ot hii worth (after
the lieutenancy of the loyai manor nf Woodtiock and (he oAice of (be royal ar-
moury) he was called up an aueuor on the bench ai honor among prioeei and
peers, receiving at her Majctly'i hands the noblest Order of the Garter, whilu Ihe
worm of time knawingihe root of ihii plant, yielding to (he burthen of agei
and the industry of an active youth, imposed on him lull ot the glory of the
court, be abated of hii leute 10 pay hii bcUei part, reiigued his dignity and bo>

34S BDCKIHCMAUSHtllE.

DOtDrhcrHijoty'tkniililto Lbc idvEiUureuiCipain George Etrl of Cumberland,
chinginjj piriiure foi h«, (or tranquillity honoi, miking rni hit lolirc, ind
contemplation hit employment, lo ii abjtm from iht world, present with him-
Mif, he choie to IdK the fiult of public me ind iction for thit of devotion lad
pitly, IP whichtime(beiidn the buildiogot (bntgoodly ni«Miani]he mrirtd
tlw mint of thit chipd, tdded thcM monimiaili to hoaor Ui Uood aid
tt'itadt, nited the founditionof ihcadjoiniDg hoipiDl,* aillartly, m fall of
yan ii of honor, hiving lened fin lucceedtng princei, nd kept lumielf righ
Old (tody in miny dingerout ^KKki, tod three utter turn* of Mate, with ■ body
bfpl to canh, and a mind ended to be»m, aged So, knighted Go yatn, he
nift bu long atteodad and, and saw nal* wiib bii Radaanar, kariag moA
P«irimoiiy with hia uoWi baoor witb the world, and ylaaiiful M«n widi hk

Ofwhicb lacriEceheoffenhiiput, tbcbtiiigaaba^nria hia bload, aa wcU
aamany hitlicBioTiblefavon, and anboaoi irfbia viituca, thji Damwly regular
. idl hii iptatd worth to eniuing time.

. NeftT this is » mignificent.ftlUr-inoiiutnent, supported with
mrcoats uid h«ImFts, and adorned with E»nners, ' battle-ajces,
and javelins. On it is tlie figure of the Knight in complete ar-
mour, with a Eurcoal, collar and georgc of the order of the gar-
ter; is head reposing on an helmet adorned with a plume of
feathers. Over the effigies of the Knight is this inscription:

Tide & Conilanlii — Vixit Deo patiiz Sc imicli annoi *

Fidr te Conitmtia — Chriilo ipiritvm umem lepvtchio commendivl
Fide & CoDManli»— Scio, credo, upecto mortvvm luvrTeaionein.

Beneath on a black marble tablet are the following lines;

If Fortvnes stoore or Natvres wealthe commende
They both vnto his virtves praise did lende
The werrs abroade with honor he did passe
In covrtly jvsts his Sovereigns knight he was
Sixe princes he did servo, and in the frighte
And change of state did keep himself vp right

I nothing reniainiag of thit building, oar do the
«tlla|cii recollect any luch • place.

BUCKIHCttAMSHIRB. 349

With faith vntavght spotlesse and cicare his fame
So jivre that Envy covid not wrongc the same
All but his virlve now (so vaine is breeth)
Tovrnd dvsl lye here in the cold arms of deetfa
Thus Fortvnes gifts and gentlhic favors flye
When virtve con<{uers death and destinye.

Another monument, erected to the memory of Sir Anthony
Lee, and Margaret hi» wife, contains the followii^ inscription;

Anthony Lke Knight of worthy name
Sire to Sir Henry Lee of noble fame
Son to Sir Robert Lee, here buried lies
Whereas his fame and memory never dies
Create in the fountain whence himself did roam
But greater in the greatness of his sone
His body here his soul in heaven doth rest
What scorndc the earth caivnot with earth be pres'l.

There are also the remnants of a third monument, witieh ap-
pears to have been 6nely executed; but this b so much injured
thai the inscription cannot be made out.

Whitchurch, situated about midway between Winslow and
Aylesbury, was given by the Conqueror to Waiter Giffard, after-
wards Earl of Buckingham, whose Id nsman, Hugh de Bolcbeck,
elected a castle here. The hill on which the keep is supposed to
have been situated is partly surrounded by a fosse, but no re-
mains of the fortress are visible. It afterwards passed by
marriage to the Veres, Earls of Oxford, in whose family it con-
linued for manv generations; but now belongs to Thomas Wil-
liams, Esq. The church is an ancient structure, with a lofty
embattled tower. It consijis of a nave, side aisles, and chancel;
the arches of the nave are pointed, and supported by octagon
pjllars. The village is situated on the edge of the Vale of Ayles-,
burv, over which the view is extensive and bi:autiful.

Middle Clavton is described by Brown Willis as having

beeft the reridence of the illustrious &mily of Vemey for eleven

generations

generations in lineal descent. They purchased tha manor in Ihe
time of Henry the Sixth, and in the reign of Henry ihe Sevenili
erected a spacious mansion-buuse, which, from the various ira-
provemenM made at different periods, became one of the most
magnificent seats in the county. The late Elarl is said to have
materially injured his fortune by the numerous alterations
which he directed on this estate. The parish contains aboot
a600 acres.

Steeple Clattov was given by William the Conqueror to
his neicc Judith ; but he afterwards resumed it, and at the time
of the survey it was still in the Monarch's possession. It was
then the most populous place in the whole hundred of Bucking-
ham, but has since dwindled to an inconsiderable village,
Henry the First gave it to his mistress, Edith Forn, Irora whom
it leems to have passed to the Fitz Johns. In the woods in this
parish, an earthen pot is said* to have been dug up filled with
the coins of Carausius and Alectus,

Caveksficld, a small parish belonging to this county, but
situated nearly a mile from its western border, in Oxfordshire,
is said by Bishop Kennet to derive its name from the Roman ge-
neral Carausius, who assumed tlie purple in Britain about the
year 287, and was afterwards slain in battle on this spot by
the treachery of Alectus.

WoTTON UNDEK Bbbnwood, the aRCient Seat of the Greii-
villes, was granted by William the Conqueror to Waller Giffard
in the year IO93 ; but four years afterwards became the proper-
ty of Richard de Grenvylle, Lord of Grenville in Normandy, ia
fight of bis wife Elizabeth. From him it has descended through
twenty generations (o the Marquis of Buckingham, who has given
il to his son Earl Temple.

The manor-house is very spacious. The stair-case and hall
were painted by Sir James Thomhili, for which he received lOOOL
annually for three years. The grounds are delightfully intermixed
with wood and water: they abound with fine old oaks, one of
which measures twenty-four feet in circumference, and coven an

area

' Kra

') Parochial Antiquilio.

BCCKtHOHAIIBll IRK.

a fifty yards in diameter with its branches. Wotton chapel
was built by William de Grenville and Mary his wife, by license
from the Bijhup of Uncolii, in 1343. It contains several monu-
ments of this family, and is now receiving a complete repair
under the direction of the Marquis of Buckingham, who intends
to correct the inscriptions, and have the (juarlerings of the arms
marked accurately. The pariah contains about 2800 acres.
I Bkill was formerly the residence of Edward the CoufessOFt
' -who had a palace here, to which he frequently retired to enjoy
the pleasure of iiunting in Bernwood Forest. The forest about
this time is reported to have been infested by a wild boar, which
was at last slidn by a huntsman named Nigrl, whom the King r&-
warded for his service with a grant of some lands to be held by a
horn : a mode of livery which in that age appears to have been
common. On the land thus given Nigel built a large manor-
house, called hvrc-ttaU, or Borstal, in memory of the event
through which he obtained possession. The estate has descended
in uninterrupted succession by several heirs female from the fami-
ly of Nigel to that of Aubrey, and the original bom by whichit was
conveyed to the former, is in the possession of Sir John AiArey,
Bart, as well as a folio volume composed about the reign of Hen-
ry tlie Third, containing transcripts of papers relating to the
manor, with a rude delineation* of the .site of Borstal-house, and
its contiguous lands ; beneath which is the figure of a man on
one knee, presenting a boar's head on the point of a sword to the
King, who is returning him a coat of arms. The horn is of a
dark brown color, variegated and veined like tortoise-shell: the
ends are tipt with silver, and fitted with wreaths of leather to
hang round the neck. During the civil wars, Borstal-tower be-
ing in the vicinity of the respective <)uarters of each parly, was
frequently the scene of contest. The ancient mansion has been
taken down, the seat of the Aubrey family being removed to
Dorton, some miles distant.

Nutlet

* Tliia curiam plan, md a [epnscnuiion orihe hom, have been engcaved m
dKthiid volume o( the AnhiKalogia, whence the chief of (he above piJticul>r*
wen derived.

IM BCCKIKOHAMSHIRI.

' KvTLiT Abbit <till displays itt ivy-ckd niitH in Ae' Ticiaitr
pt Long Bmndon. It was founded by Walter Oi&rd, Earl of
Buckingham, and Gorinengard hia wife, for Augustine canoos
regular, in the year 1162. Its endowments were confinned by
Henry the Second and King John, who granted many new privi-
leges and immunities to its " r^>acious monies,'' as tl>ey ara
denomiiMted by foown Willis. The annual value at the disso-
lution amounted to 4S71. 6». 8d, and its inhabitants to eighteen.

Cbiltoh has become celebrated as the birth-place of Sir
George Crook, ihr. patriot judge, wbo steadily opposed the levy-
ing of ship-money nirhout authority of Parliament in the reign
of Churles the Fiist. He was descended from the andent
family of Lo Blount, who being attached to the t^ncaairiaBB
during the war of the rival houses, were obliged to conceal
thcmseives under a fictitious name till the accesuon of Henty the
Seventh, but afterwards retained it as a memorial of past danger.
Sir George filled the office of Lord Chief Justice of the King's
Bench many years, and during the perilous time which preceded
the war between Charles and his Pariiamcnt, performed the da-
tiesw his high station with the greatest integrity. He died on
the 5th of February, l641.

Upper Winchekdon became the property of Philip Lord
Wharton* on his marriage with the heiress of the Goodwins.
Thomas, his successor, made it his chief residence, and effected
many considerable improvements in the ancient mansion house
and its surrounding grounds, which at that time were considered
as the lineat in the county. On the attainder of his eccentric-
aon, the Duke of Wharton, the estate was sold to the famous
Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, from whom it descended to the
present Duke, who only uses it for a hunting seat. The old man-
sion was removed about forty years since, and the materials
sold i but some of the adjoining officcii have been fitted up as a
residence for the steward, and occasionally for the hmily.

CYTHOAr, ■
* Sec pinknUn of tUt funity under Woobura in ilu coun^.

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 353

Etthorp, the lamily mausion of tlie Earls of Chesterfield,
vas unciemly the neat of tliu Denbarns, but in the reign of Eiiza-
belb bizcuine the property of ihe Dormei's, Barona and Earls of
Caernarvon, from whom it po^seil by marriage to the Stanhopes,
who still possess it.

DvNTov is mentioned, in the Additions to Camden, as the
place nhere sevend skeletons were found in buildings tower;
and also a glass vessel of a conical iiiiapc. One of the skeletons
had a spear sticking in the throat.

Ghbat awd Little Kymble, written Ifu/ie6(/ in ancient
records, arc supposed to derive their names from the British
King Cunobelin, and, from the several fortification a and trenches
in the vicinity, to bnve been the scat of action when the* brave
sons of that Monarch oppuaed the progress uf the Romans. On
around hill, near EUesborough church, are the remains of an
ftnclent fortification, called llclinus' Castle, ^^here, according to
tradiijon, Cunolxilin resided. A high hill at a little distance
»tiU bears the name of Bfliucsbiiiy,*

WENDOVER

Is an ancient borongh, consisting principally of mean brick
houses, built in a low bottom amung the Chiltern Hills. The
inhabitants derive their chief support from lace-making; but as
a branch of the Grand Junction CiBal, called the Navigable
Feeder, has been lately brought to the town, we may suppose
that iheir situation will improve, as the facility of removing
articles of traffic is frequently the means of opening new sources
of em ploy men I. Near the town is a lai^e reservoir, which Covers
aboTit seventy acres; and was made for the supply of liie canal.
The appearance of the market-house is particularly mean.
This borougii was first represented in Parliament iu the 28lh of
Eduurd the Eirst. It intermitte*! sending till the '21st of James

Vol. 1. A a ihe

354 BrCKINGHAUSHIItX.

the First,* when the privilege waa restored by pelitiun, Tlie
righi of election is vesied in the housekeepers not receiving alms.
The voters arc not more than 130, most of whom are per-
mitted to occupy the burgage-houses rent free: the cnndiliont
on which they enjoy this privilege arc easily comprtihcnded. Thb
town gave birth and name to Rogrr, the historian, who wrote a
chronicle from the crearion of the world to the reign of Henry the
Second, a.nd Richard, made Bishop of Rochcs<tcr by Henry the
Third.

In this neighbourhood we enter the southern division of the
county, called the Chiltem, which is exceedingly different from
the other part in its external appearance, quality of soil, mode
of agriculture, materials fur building, and almost every other
circumstance that can render two counties dissimilar. Many of
the houses and walls are composed of flint, or flint intermixed
with brick. The soil is thin, with a chalk bottom; and very ex-
tensive tracts are covered with beech trees. Many elegant man-
sions are also interspersed through this district, which is elevated,
healthy, and pleasant.

Checql'ers, the ancient seat of Sir John Russel, Bart, is
beautifully situated among the woods between Ellesborough and
Hampden. Sir John is a lineal descendant of Cromwell, by the
marriage of Sir John Russel, of Chippenham, Cambridgeshire,
with Lady Frances, the Protector's daughter, widow of Robert
Rich, Esq. Hanpdes

• The JnUrmuiion wu itlcndcd by (h( very TfTnlrkiUf c.icumnince of ill
(eeolleclion of the ligM of ihc botnugh hiving been !oi(, till about ihii period,
when Mr. Hikeville, oF Linroln'i tnn, dlicovcnd, by a torch among tht ub
cicnl Pailiameiit wtiti in the Tower, ihallheboraughtotAmerthun, Wenilovtt,
and Great Marlow, had all lem Meni)>cri in fai-mcr iima; and pHilioiu were
then prererred in the namei o( tboie placet, thai llieir ancienl liberty or fnnchiie
migbi be reiLored. When the King wii informed of ihete peiJiions, he diietlcd
fail wlicitor, Sir Robert Hearh, lo oppow ibrm with all hii might, decUr)ng,
>< thai he vrH troubled with too greai a number nf Burgeiatt alfCidy." The
Sovetiign'i oppoiilmn proved inefieciual ; and ihe Commnm, ai above anted,
decided in favor of the rdtnrtlion of the privilef;F. Some panieiilan of th»
fingulir c*K may be found in Willii'i Nolitij Farliimentaria.

eiTCKtNGHAM^tllRZ. 355

Hampden House, the almost deserted seat of the tkncient
lainrly of iliat name, is seated on the brow of a hiil, overlooking
A narrow valley, the sides of which are skirted with well-wooded
cnttnences. This mansion contains several good pictures and fa-
mily portraits ; but the names of the persons whom they repre-
sent appear to he. fof^otten. One of thum, however, is easily
distinguislied; it is a full length portrait of Oliver CimMWitL,
who is delineated with a truncheon in bis right hand, and hU left
resting on a helmet; his hair grey. In the middle distance is a
corps of cavalry; and in the back-ground, a sea-port with ship-
ping. Here are also two sets of copies from Raphael's cartoons
lit Windsor. One set is drawn with red chalk, and the other is
painted. *

In the village church, situated immediately behind this man-
rion, there is a monument to the memory of the last heir male,
Mr. John Hampden, with the various intermarriages of the fami-
ly, represented in shields of their arms pendaiil from a tree. The
inscription states, that this gentleman was the 2*th hereditary
Lord of Great Hampden, and Biii^ess for Wendover in three Par-
liaments. He died in 17^4, having bequeathed his estate^ and
name to the Honorable Robert Trevor, a descendant on the fe-
male side from the disiinguished opponentof the unconstitutional
right assumed by Charles the First, of levying ship-money by his
own authority. His son, the present Viscount Hanipden, suc-
ceeded to the estate in 1783.

JoHW Hampden, Esq. the celebrated character whose
adherence to the principles of general liberty had such a predo-
minating influence over the events of the seventeenth century,
was born in the year \a9^. His family are supposed to have'
been originally Saxon, and the most ancient in this coujity, where
, they had great possessions in the rci^n of Edward the Third, At
^e age of fifteen he wa.s sent to Magdalen College, Oxford,
whence he removed to one ot' the iutis of court ; and though of-
ten the conipauion of the gav and dissipated, acquii-eil a :;unsi-
dcrable knowledge of the laws. The \ivacity and rtieerfulness of
his conversation became the mi-aiis of his allaining an extensive
A a 'i ucijuuimuncc :

acquaintfince; but the pccuUar vigor of his understanding remain'
ed concealed till llie period when he contested the leg&lity of
the rate called ship-money. Hisi opposition to this obnoxiou*
measure immediately rendered him popular; the gratimdeora
whole people was excited by his conduct ; for in his steady de-
knee o( individual Tight, they discovered the lafej^uard and the
surety of their own. " The eyes of all men," says Clarendon,
" iverc fixed upon him as their pater p<ttri<r, and the pilot that
must steer the vessel through the tempests and rocks which
threatened it." He now became the firm supporter of the mcft-
surcs employed to counteract the dcsig;ns of the King ; and by his
discernment, spirit, and address, was soon advanced lo the hoad
of his party. On the commpncpmcnt of the civil war, he was
one of the first to appear in arms, and shortly afterwards engaged
the royal troops at RrUl, in this county. His bravery was as
conspicuous as his abilities, and in several skirmishes his succe&s
was favorable: but at length, on the 18th of June, l6U, in an
action with Prince Rupert at Chalgrovc field, in Oxfordshire,
he received a mortal wound with a pistol bullet. The shot en-
tered his shmildcr, and broke the bone. Alter suSenng extreme
pain for six days, he expired, to the great sorrow of every friend
to his ]>erson and priDciplcs. In the delineation of his character
by the Earl of Clarendon, his reach of edacity, penetration,
judgment, and solidity of understanding, arc strongly marked.
" His industry and vigilance," observe the earl, " were neither
to be tired out nor wearied by the most laborious, nor his parts
to be imposed upon by the most subtle and sharp."

PRINCES' RISBOROUGH,

Is 8 small market town, so denominated from Edwnrd the
Black Prince, who, according to the tradition of the inhabitants,
had large possessions and a palace here. I'liis was probably the old
manor-house, which was moated round, and stood near the west
end of the church-yard, but is now entirely destroyed. The
spot on which it was sittiated is supposed by Mr. Wise to faave

been

BUCKING HA M9HIRE. 3i7

\ b«en a Saxou camp, fortified to check tlie incuraions of the
Itanes ; it being near Hie road called the Icknild Way, or, as it

' k now corrupt!)' named by the peasantry, the Ai:hntl Way.

Monks Risbohough, the adjoining parish, received that ap-
pellation from its having been given to Christ Church, Canterbury,
by Eschwine, Bbhop of Dorchester, about the year 993, and
afterward:, assigned as a portion to the monks of that place.
Near the hamlet of Whitelrftf, in this parish, is an antiquity
of u similar kind to the White Horse in Berkshire; this is a
Cross formed in the aame manner on the side of a high and
steeji chalk hill, taring the south-west, and thence becomings
distinct and principal object to that part of the county, and the
vljoining lands of Oxfordshire. It appears raised on a basis of
consiileiable dimensions. Its perpendicular bright is about 100
feet, its greatest breadth 30; yet, as it decreutei gradually up-
wards, the top dues not exceed ?0 feel. The transverse line is near-
ly 70 feet in length, and 12 in breadth. The depth of the trench,
which is cut in the chalk, to determine the limits of the figure,
is between two and three feet. According to tradition, the ex-
pense of repairing this rude but durable memorial of our ances-
tors, was formerly defrayed by some of the Oxford Colleges;
but Dothing on this subject can be affirmed with certainty i nbei)
it was last scoured, i

I was done by (he subscription of the neigh-

1 the origin and signification of

bouring gentry.

Mr. Wise, w^
the White Hor
■erres, thai, " the Horse cannot but be attributed to Saxons;
nor the Cross to any but Christian Saxons ; and that tlie design
and meaning of each were the same is clear from their situations."
He proceeds to ascribe the latter to the age of Ldward the Elder,
when it was formed, he imagines, to preserve the memory of a
battle fought with the Danes, the scene of which seems pointud
out in this neighbourhood by the village named BUdluv, which is
acorruption from the term Implying the liluvily Hill.

Great iMishekiien was formerly the scat of a monastery

fot Bvnedictirjes, built by the family of the D'Uileys, but

,\ a 3 eiido«'ed

BtTCKtNGHAMSHlKE.

endowed by Sir Thomas Mjuenden, Kni^t, And Admiral, about
the year i'299, in pursuance of a vgw made on escaping sbip-
wrt^ck. On the di^olulion it was leased to Richard Grcnewe>e
for fil years, at the annual charge of 91. lis. lOd. Having
reverted to the Crown, it was granted by Queen Elizabeih, 14
the second year of her reign> to Richard Hampden, Csq. Cleik
of the Royal Kitchen ; and aftentard^ to the Earl of LeicsstCTa
in perpetuity. In l6l2 this estate was in the possession of Sir
\Villiam Fleetwood, whose title was then lontirmed by the k-tten
patent of Jaines the First. In the year )?»? it was purcbas^
Qut of chancery by Jaioes Uldham Oldbani, Esq. who has made
many cunsidciabU alterations in the pounds, and u Lolly nrbuUt
the houfce, \tluch iti^tted up in the Venetian style, and vendeicd
paiticularly elejjanl by its internal decorations. Tlje church iii
on (he silk- of n hill, abuui half u mile tvoin the village, aiid has
lately been repaired and cmbelhshed bj Mr. Oldhiun. The
chancel is builtwith flint, and lonlaiiis ^veral luurui in«uum«)

CHESHAM

Is a stnalt but vopulous town, situated in a pleasant and fer-
tile valley, li c(n>sists of three streets, principally occupied by
shoe and lace makers, and manufacturers of wooden articles, in
the respective branches of round, hollow, and Tunbndge Ware.
The dealings in the turnery goods amount to a very large sum
annually; and it has been computed that nearly a thousand pair
of shoes are made here every week. The iuhnbitants are mostly
diiiBeniers, and there are no fewer than four places of worship in
this town, independent of the parish church. The children of
the poor receive the early rudiments of education at a free
school.

Latihers, the seat of Lord George Cavendbh, deriivd iu
naroc from its ancient lords. It was formerly the rfsidence of
Sir Edwyn Sandys, whose daughter Hester, ihe wife of Sir Thomaa
I'emple, was born here.

CHENCVa

BVCKIirGBA

359

CnEKBTs is a small village belonging to tlie Duke of Bcdfurd,
but anciently lo the family of the Cheneys, who had very exten-
rive possessions in iliis neigh bo urhoud. The old nianuivhouBe,
descritied at some length [jy Lcland, is yet standing near the
elegant chapel, built in the year 1563, by Anne, Countess of
Bedford, in pursuance of the will of John, Earl of Bedford,
her husband. Theie illustrious personages were the first of the
RusseU interred in this fabric, which has from that period been
tlic general burial-place of the family, and contains several
handsome monuments erected to their remembrance,

Chalfont St. Gilbs has been rendered memorable as the
residence of Milton during the plague which raged in London in
the year l66'5. The house in which he took refuge is now stand-
ing, and probably in the same state as when inhabited by that
great poet, who on this spot finished his immortal poem of Para-
dise Lost. Here also the first draught of Paradise R^ained is
supposed to have been written through the suggestion of bis
Aiend Elwood, the Quaker, the companion of his retirement,
who, after perusing the original copy of the former poem, re-
turned it to the bard with these words : " thou hast said a great
deal on Paradise Lost; but what hast thou to say on Paradise
Found i" Milton made no answer, and, after a short silencet
began a conversation on another subject; but a considerabla
time afterwards presented bis friend with the Paradise Regained,
saying, in a pleasant tone of voice, " This is owing to you ; for
you made it the subject of my thoughts, by the question you
put to me at Chalfont."

AMERSHAM,

WaiTTEK Agmondesham by the Saxons, appears to have been
vested in Ann Nevil, wife of Stafford, Dulte of Buckingham,
who vns slain at the battle of Northampton in the 38th of Henry
the Sixth. In the ensuing reign it became the property of the
Great Earl of Warwick, whose lands were seized by the King,
butrestoredto Anne Beauchamp, the Earl's widow, l^ Henry the
A a4 Seventh,

960 BUCKING UAMSKIKE.

Seventh, only for the purpose of having it more formally con-
veyed to bim. Henry the £i);hth gave it to John, aftenvard*
Lord Rus.sel ; but, in the reign of James the First, it became
the property of the Drake family by an inlermRrriage with the
daughter and heiress of AVilliiim Totliill, Esq. The present
possessor is 'I'homas Drake Tyrwhitt Drake, Esq. a collateral
descendant. Tliis fiimily was originally seated at Ash, near
Exmoulh, Devon.

This ancient town is seated in a vale between vtoody hills. It
consiiis of a long wide street, crossed near the centre by a
tmftiler one. Near the point of intersection is the church, a spa-
cious brick building, covered with i^tucco,
nave, with small aislc-s, a transept, chancel, and n
ajid a tower at the west end. The nave is provided «itb good
pews ; and also three galleries fitted Up by the late Mr. DraLc.
who, when this stinicturc was repaired in the year 1778, had a
window of painted gluas brought from a decayed mansion at
Tjiiht , in Hertfordshire, and pltxced in the chancel. In the
upper compartments arc a Lamb and a Dove, and the figures of
Faith, Hope, and Charily, with their proper cmbleiDS. Beneath,
in two rows, are whole length figures of the twelve Apostles. In
the chancel is a large marble monuinent to the raemory of Mrs.
Elizabeth Dent, who bequeaibcd rCiOl. to purchase lands, the
income nf which iihe directed to In' given to the clergjnian, for
preaching serraotu and adminiitering the sacrament to the pooc.
She also appropriated the interest^f lOOl. to the use of goMf
widows, who should constantly attend divine service, and receive
the communion. The monument-room is paved with marble,
vnd was built by one of the Drtikcs purposely to receive the
family monuments. One of them, erected to the memory of
Montague Gcrrard Drake, who died in 1738, was executed by
Scheemaker, arid is very magnificent. It is composed wilkiah-
oiis colored marble. Mr. Drake is represented on a i iiii initii^iii.
with his head reclined on his left hand. At his leet u •IwgB
statue of his widow, sitting ; and near his head is the ^ure erf
JJ^mcD weeping, »nd bearing *ii e.Minguisti«d totcb. Ow.tbk

«>Tnh

SVCKINGIIAMSIIIHS. $61

tomb arc two Cupids. Tiie compression of the figures is finely
executed. The town-hall was built in the year l6s2, by Sir
Willium Drake, Bart, who also erected aud endowed an alms-
house for six poor widows.

Great quantities of black lace arc made here ; and the laboring
classes derive additional support from acotlon manufacEory, esta-
blished about eleven years ago, which employs above a hundred
persons, though much of ihu business is performed by machinery.
The houses in this boroujtb are 26/ ; but very few more Mian
fine fourth of thai number have (he privilege of voting/ the right
being restricted to the inhabitants who pay scot and Int. The
living is said to rank among the best in England. This parish
(including the hamlet of Culeshill, which, though but 11 little dis-
tance from Amersham, is considered as part of Hertfordshire)
contains 403 houses, p39 male and 1171 female inhabitants.
About one mile and a half from this town* is

SuAHDELOEa, the seat of T. D. T. Drake, Esq. 'ITiii
estate originally belonged to the Tothills ; and from some memo>
randurns in the possession of Mr. Drake, it appears that the old
manor-house was the occasional residence of Queen Elizabeth.
The present mansion is delightfully situated on tbe brow of s
hill, overlooking a broad sheet of water, which was planned by
Richmond, and occupies the centre of a narrow valley, covering
35 acres. The view of Amersham to the north-east, with the sur-
rounding eminences, surmounted with extensive tracts of wood,
is very beautiful. The house was erected by Mr. Drake's father,
from designs by Adams. The principal entrance is in the north
front, under a projecting portico, supjiorted by four fluted
Corinthian columns. Tlie hall is 30 feel sfjuare. On the right is
the dining parlour, 36 feet by 24. On the left a haiidsomo
drawing-room of the same dimensions, containing several good
paintings ; the following axt. esteemed the bi^t.

A thres

• Tht burning of William TilUwonh vit mrmioncd in pafe iS (ihrougfc
tlic enor oF not rcftrring [o Fox, the oiigiiiil nmaot] Xa have been cHccwd W
DmuUt, but |he ml tceni of thai iruuctton w» Amenhaiu, where two

Utbtr jKiwm were alio tommiricJ 10 ihc ll»n>e. «uhm » year 01 twu ifierwaidj.

362 BUCKINGHAMSHIRB.

A three quarter portrait of Queen Elizabeth, who is pro-
fusely decorated with lace, beads, and bracelets : her right
hand rests on a globe. In the back-ground is a representation
of the Spanish Armada on one side, and the storm which dis-
persed it on the other.

A small Landscape with Figures : Francis Van Lins, 1741.

Lord Chancellor Hatton : C. Janson.

Four Pieces, representing a Storm at Sea; Sun-Set; a Calm,
with the Sun breaking through a Fog; and Sun-Rise. These
were executed by Vernet, and are dated 1747* Thfi'tbtee int
are very finely executed ; the fourth is a dark pictniet
ffom the artist's usual styk, and appartentiy an UDitmtkm af
Flemish piece.

A Engagement at Sea : L. A. Carter.

Two Landscapes, with Ruins ; Views in Italy.: Vaa
174^2.

. An upright Landscape, with Rocks and Water&U : Van Deist
The composition is bold and spirited, and the coloring fine, ft
bears a strong resemblance to some of the productioiit af
Salvator.

Some good paintings, by FraAcb Balow, of Fish, Birds, ke^
Among the first is a portrait of a Jack caught in the laWfo^fbti
the housfe, which weighed 34 pounds. * >r ^

HIGH OR CHIPPING WYCOMBE

Is situated on the banks of a rivulet in a valley, as it^^Qani
implies ; and if not the largest town in Buckinghamshire^ is cer*
tainly the most handsome. The antiquities found in its na^«
bourhood, particularly a tessalated pavemeiU% and various

Roman

* This pavement was found in a meadow in the grounds it Loako,
Wycombe Abbey, in the year 1724. It was about nine feet square, with tlie
figure of a wild beast in the centre, and the borders curiously ornamented with
•mall'Square stones of different colors : the coins discovered with it were tbos«
of Antoninus Pius and Marcus Aurelius. Several other coias have been found
in the 'neighbourhood ; and also paft of t Roaun vend ia digging t ceUir ia
ihb High-SitreeC

BUCSIilGUAUSUItlB. 363

Roman coins, liavc induced a suppoi^tiun that it was r Roman
■BUkment ; but tliis evidence oagbt no otherwise to be regarded,
than as presumptive, as the above things might have been lett on
this spot if it had only been the site of a Roman villa. That it
was early inhabited by Saxons seems incoutestible ; for, in ad-
dition to the argument which arises from the appellation Chipping
being a corruption of the Saxon term indicative of mariii'ti we
are informed in Langley'a* History of the Hundred of Dcsbo-
rough, that there ii a strong double eutrenchmeut in the vici-
nity, called Desborough Castle, where foundations of buildings,
broken lil«s and bricks, have been dug up; and also & stone
window frame, of a similar shapo to those used in ancient
churcbet. These remains were in the iimcrmust part ef the for-
tification, which is but a short distance from the main road,
anil was juobably designed to check the incursions of the Danes.

Previous ro the Conquest, Wycombe was considered as the
property of Edith, Edward the Confessor's Queen. In the reign
of Harold it was possessed by Wigod, ibc Lord of Wallingford,
ftnd Hfterwards descended with the honor of that place through
the hands of Robert D'Oilly, Milo Crispin, and Brientius fila-
Coum, to Henry the First, who about this time made it a fiee
borough. The original manor now became divided; IWa de
WicnmlK being given by Henry toGeoifrey, bis illegitimate sun by
fair Rosamond ; and i'iSla Foriiucca, i. e. the out village or town,
bestowed by King John on Alau Basset and Robert Vipont.
The whole manor was soon afteruaids vested in the tbrmrr, with
the exception of what waa held by Vipont,

The estate given to Basset, and thence called BaitKr.tibiity, con-
tinued in his family till the reign of Edward the I"ir>.t, when (tie
heiress of I'hilip married Roger le Bigod, Earl Marshal, on the
attainder of whose issue, Hugh le De.sjienser, in the year
13:2(5, it reverted to the Crown. Edward the third, iu 133^,
granted thii manor to his cousjn William de Duhun, from whoso

family

• To Ihii gi!uUfm»n's very piUieular Iliitory fif the »W
ioddHed (« mucfa of ihc hiHoricil infoitiiiion dHuled ii
plice tKtWtcn Wycombe luid HedKir.

• H.B.

3ffi BUCK IWGHAIWSII mis.

fiiraily it passed by marriage to Henry de Bolingbnwk, »ob rf
John of Gaunt, and aftenvards King by the lillc of Henry the
Fourtli. In the reign of Edward the Fourth it was granted to
the dean and canons of Windsor and their sitcceisors, by nhom
it has been leased to various families. The present lessee is Sir
John Dash wood. Ban.

The manors included in the grant to Viponl were demised by
him to the Knights Templars, «ho retained (he estate till the dis-
solution of Iheir order, by Edward the Second, in 1334. The
accounts of their descent from this time are incompleic, till they
came into the possession of the Archdale family, and were con-
vtyed in 1700 to Henry Lord Shelburnc, from whom they de-
scended to the present Marciuis of Lansdown ; but are now the
property of Lord Carrington by purchase.

Wycombe is a very nourishing town, and comists of scver&)
streets branching from the High-Street, which is spacious and
well built. The town-hall was erected at the expence of John
Eorl of !>helbume in 1737. It is a large brick buitiiing, supported
on thirty-toiir tlone pillars, and finished in a neat and convetiicni
manner. The church is a handsome structure of stone, built in
the year 1273, and dedicated lu All Saints, 1'hc to^iei is at the
west end lOS feet bi^jb, and adorned with roses and portcullises ;
it was erected in 1£S3; but its pinnacles and Gothic ornaments
were built by the above Earl about 17^5. The interior is divided
into a nave, aisles, and chancel. Over the communion-table is
a large painting by Mortimer, presented to the church by Dr. Bates
ol Little Missenden. It represents St. I'aul converting the Druids
to Christianity, and contains fifteen figures, with a little babe
and a dog, grouped with considerable skill. The expression and
coloring are likewise very fine; but the drawing, and mode of
treating the subject, are far from being commendable. The Or-
gan was erected by (Jteen in 17S3, the expense being defrajed
by subscription. In the chancel is a magnificent mural monu-
ment, erected to the memory of Henrj Petty, Earl of Shelbume.
at the charge of 20001. bet]ueaihed by him fur iht purjKisc. The
vfljgies of the Earl is lying on a cist of black marble, wilii Rcli^n

holding

BWCKIN&HAMSurKE. 3()S

before him. On the right hand are Virtue and.
Learning, represenlctl by femHie figures ijistmciinga child: on the
leltCbarity anda Romiin warrior. Thecanopy Is sustained by pil-
lars of grey msTblc; at ibc top it an urn, with Pnidcnce and
Justice on either sidt. Beneath the cist U a medallion of the
Great Sir William Petty, the Karl's father ; and over It the &mi-
ly arms. In the souih aisle is a beautiful monument, byCariini,
to the memory of Sophia, &nl wife to the Marquis of Lansdown,
who died in 1771. and represents that lady reclining on an urn,
with her two children.

This borough was incorporated some time prior to the rviga
of Edward the Third ; anil a memorandum in the old corporation
bouki mentions the first charter to have been granted by Henry
the Third. The existing charters bear date the -2Sth of Eliza-
beth, the 5th of James, and the 15th of Charles the Second.
The corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen,
ftnd various inferior nljicers. The dignity of high-stewa.'d was
lied by the charter of King Charles, but has occasionally
keen conCerreil since that period. The right of election is vested
in the mayor, aldermen, bailiffs, and burgesses: The latter are
chosen at the discretion of the mayor, aldermen, and bailitl^.
TTirir number at present is about eighty, sixty of whom are cum-
pellcd to be resident by a bye-law made in 179^'. The lint re-
turn to Parliament was in the 28th of Edward the First, since
vfhich time it has becu ri'prescntcJ without intcrmisssion.
The number of houses in tlie borough is 421, the inhabitanU
^out 2200.

The prosperity of the town is in a great measure owing to the
proximity of the Wycombe Stream, which, in its course through
the parish, ^ves motion to fifteen corn and paper-mills. The
manufacture of the latter article is probably carried to as greet
an extent in this neighbourhood as in any part of England. The
iccond source of its wealth is the expenditure of travellers, which,
from this being the principal thoroughfare to O.xford, &c.
■mounts to a very considerable sum annually. Some of the in-
habitants are supported by lace-making. The yearly value of

■■ Ahmt 6000

n. TW-J,

« n-mr M» I

various doniilioas given to support the poor is about StOt.
tliU«iiiii, 301. i»eritnnum is ttppropnaled to the niaslar or & gram-
mar sclimvl, who Kri likowite an itddiliDnal 30t. from the interest
df money vetteil in ilx- I'unds, and beijuealticd fur tho purpose m
1790, by Mrs. Mary H..ndPr. This parisii c.mtflinn abtnit fiOOO
acres, of which (iSO inc wnoijlund, and 100 f
is arable and pa^ltire. Il'^ houses, independent ut' rhMC'4
borougti, are 'i6B, and \ti iiihaliilnnts about UKO.'

Wycombe Abbey, formerly I/oakti, ihy sent a
riii^ton, is sitiDLtril in a hottr>m. nil the bnnks 6f th« rtvor t
the town, but is so entirely sccIo<Ipd in the bosom of its thick
groves, that every appearance of a neigh bourhood is conccaM.
The manor-hrin^e was an irregular building, cr(^cted about tb«
rrign of James the First, but will shortly be complrtoly repaired,
and consiilcrahle addilioni made from de^ign^ by Mr. WyitL
The whole is intended to he cased with « hard sand stDoe,t
found in the neighbourhood. The front of the house is rvndcmd
pleasant by a spacious sheet of water, which winds through th*
grounds for nearly three quarters of a mile, and is tenninatid
hy a small arti^cinl cascade, executed by the ingenious J. J.
Liine,[ and claiming admiration from its variety of part) luid
picturesque eflecl. The park, containing about 300 acres, J)
dirersifii-d with bold hills, and eminences covered with wood.
About one mile north of Wycombe is

IIiTCHENDEB, the scat of the Countess Dowager Cqi^a^
ham, H distant relation of the late John Norris, Esq. iW. It

■I
■ In ihe court-rolls orTeinple Wyeombe 'i ■ pnatnlmtQl (3d of Hearjr Akl»
VBilh} a^inst t tiskfr, nirmd RbbcI, far keeping a icolding jlfr'tf in hii hMH(
Mil >noiher (161I1 of KUubeth) (gtinti (lie mhabiunu ol Wycombe (m aal
Imping bowi and urowi.

t TlicKiionu neditptned OTcrihcgroimdt in •togUnuMs, (imilHWAi
gny wclhcn nn Mirlbnrough Downi, bin liivc ntvn bctuii: been applied to
dK [lurpOKt nf building.

' i Thi. n«», 111

uglioliginallyonly a FMinmoii mauin, hii diiplayed oMIt

MM .nd JHdgmt

penon in EneUii.l

Tliccuude It BuxouU. Wilu, 11 1 vciy Ike tpecinUBof

hil UlcQU.

BVCKiyORaUSBIRK, 371

T0&TILLB, er TtTRFiELD, comiats of two manora, one of
which was given to the Abbey of St. Alhan's, in the year 794,
by Egfrid, ion of Otfa, King of Mercia. The other was granted
ftt ft very early period to the family of Morteyn, but afterwards
became the property of the Balilcr«, The parish contains nearly
2000 acros, dj'jposed into arable, pasture and wood land. In tiie
yew 1772 some Roman coins were found here; eight of which
were lately in the possession of Colonel Jones, of Ipstone House;
tbey related to the Emperors Antoninus Pius, Vcspasiao, Tra-
jan, Aurt-Uui, and the Empress Faustina.

FAWLEY COURT,

Thb seat of Strickland Precman, Esq. was formerly llie pro-
perty of the Whitelock family, who obtained it about the com-
meacement of the 17th centur}'. Sir James Whitelock, the
celebrated judge, died here in the year 1 632, and was succeeded
by his son, Bulslrode Whilclock, author of the Memoriftls
which go under his name. This gentleman possessed great talents
and considerable learning; but the fleKibilJiy of hiii conduct
during the civil wars, has occasioned his memory to be stigma-
tized with want of principle ; [hough the real cause of his
versatility might with more justice be ascribed to a mildness of
temper, which divested him of manly fortitude. James, hit
Mm, sold this estate, about ]6"80, to Colonel William Freeman,
from whom it descended to the present possessor.

The old manor-house was materially injured by a body of
horse in the interest of Charles the Second, whri were quartered
here at the latter end of the year 1 b'43 ; and though commanded
hy their officers to refrain from di^troying any part of the pro-
perty, regarded their orders with as little attention, as they
could havedone had their quarters belonged to an enemy. They
" littered their hones with sheaves of good wheat, and gavo
them all sorts of corn in tlie straw. Of divers writings of con-
fequcnce, oml bt>oks wliich were left in the study, some they
tore in pieces, othei> they used to light their tobncco, and some
B b 2 they

374 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.

manship: between tlie arches is the figure of a priest, and a
bishop's head with a mitre. Many persons of the very ancient
family of the IVOyleys are interred within this fabric*

This parisli is nearly five miles in length, and four in breadth.
It contains about 1200 acres of woodland, 5500 arable and
pasture, and 150 common and waste. The number of farms
are 30, the cottages 154; the inhabitants nearly 1000. This
neighbourliood is rendered extremely beautiful by the inequality
of the groimd, and the fine mixture of wood, com, and pasture,
which diversifies the appearance of the vales and eminences.

Orxevlavi)

. * One monument, erected to ^ mcroqiy of this family, u cpmpoied of
alabaster. Itconcists of twelve figures as large as life, kneeliog, aod veiy elegant-
ly sculptured. They represent Sir Cope D'Oyley, (the heir to the Cunily of
the D'Oyleys who founded the abbies of Oseney and Missenden, and the
castle of Oxford,) his lady, and their ten children, five sons and five daugh-
ters. The poetry beneath the figures is somewhat singular ; and as it records tko
virtues of a family of much celebrity in the county, ^^e shall insert a copy.

Under tke Kmgkt is inscribed:
Ask not of me, Who's buried here ?
Goc ask the commons, ask the shiere,
Goc ask the church, they'll tell thee who^
As well as blubber'd eyes can do.
Goe ask the heraulds, ask the poor.
Thine ears shall hear enough to ask no morp,
, Then if thine eyes bedew this sacred ume>

£ach drop a pearl will tume,
T'adom his tombe ; or if thou can'st not vent,
I'hou bring'&t more n^arble to his monument.

IJnder the Lady is inscribed:
yrould'st (hop, reader, draw to life
The perfect copy of a wife,
Read on ; and then from shame redeeo)
That lost, but honorable name.
This was once in spirit a Jael,
Rebecca in grace, in heart an Abigail,
In works a porcas, to the church a Hanna,
And to her spouse Susanna ;
Prudently simple, providently wary ;
To the world a Martha, and to heav'n » Mary.

BVCKIVOHAMSUIEB. 375

Grbeklakd House, near Hambledon, at the time of the
civil wars, was the residence of Sir John D'Oyley, throu^
whose attachment to the royal cause it was converted into a gar-
rison, and sustained a siege of six months, when most part of
the building having been destroyed, the governor, Colonel
Hawkins, capitulated on honorable terms. The remains of the
house has been fitted up as a ferm, which exhibits but few spe-
cimens of the former grandeur of the mansion. The forti^c^
tions raised during the siege are yet distinguishable.

MEDMENHA^I,

At the time of the Domesday survey, was held by Hugh de
Bolebcck, whose eldest son having endowed the abbey at Woburn,
in Bedfordshire^ gave this manor to found a cell to it; but the
latter was not built till the barony descended to his brother Wal-
ter^ who, in consequence, has erroneously been considered as
the founder. In the reign of Henry the Eighth, it was annexed
to Bisham Abbey, in Berkshire ; but from the return made by
the commissioners at the dissolution, appears to have been of very
iikle importance, having only two monks, ** who both desyrcn
to go to houses of religion. Servants none**^Woods none — Debts
none-^Bells, &c. worth 21. Is. Sd. The house wholly in ruins,
and the value of the moveable goods only ll. 3s. 8d.'' The
abbot was epistolar of the order of the Garter,

In the last century, this little abbey became particularly cele-
brated from having been made the retiring place of a society of
men of wit and fashion, under the title of Monks of St. Francis,
whose habits they assumed. Their manners arc said to have
been very opposite to the strictness of the former inhabitants ;
but the statement of the disgusting tenets of this new institu-
tion, contained in a publication of the day*, was most probably
heightened into falsehood. The descriptions neither agree with
the building nor its situation; but whatever were the real prin-

B b 4 ciples

* Chrysal, or the Adventura of a Guinct.

a7«

f ipleb of the ^ociiety, ihaay of tMr tniiMtctioi)» were undotibN
ildly vicious and diskonorablei. The wocll^ " Fay ce que
voudraiy" the motto of this bat order, is inscribed over tbe
door^

This building is very pJeasantly situMed o» tke banks of the
Thamei, beween Henley and Great Mitiio^w,. Browa Willis, who
visited it in the year 171S> observes, that *' itf6cin& to have been
a very neat and stately building, wall wrought w^h ashler-work ;
the four pillars renaining. are very handsome, and the windows
high and spacious/' Its present state is described by Mr.
Langley in the following words : **The abbcy-howie, with its ivj-
mantlcd roof and walh, forms a very picturesque object. The
late addition of a ruined tower, cloister, and other correspond-
ing parts, is made with so much taste and ptt)ptiety, that when
tipie shall have worn off all traces of the rule, and bhinted its
shaq) edges ; when the ivy shall haVe continued its embraces,
and tbe mosses of various hues overspread the surface; some
future writer will be disposed to class it with the more ancient
pile, Within the cloister a room is fitted up with the same good
taste, and the glare of light is judiciously excluded by the pleas-
ing gloom of ancient stained glass, chiefly coronets, roses, and
portcullises. The figure of the Virgin (the abbey seal) seated
on a throne, and holding the infant Saviour in her arms, carved
in marble, stills remains, and is placed in a niche in the tower."
The site of the abbey was purchased of the Dufl'ield family, in
1779> by John Morton, Esq. whose widow sold it, together with
the neighbouring villa of Danesficld, in the year 178^, to Robert
Scott, Esq. the present owner.

Danesfield, the elegant residence of the above gentleman,
was so named from a strong and perfect Danish encampment on
the estate in the form of a rude horse-shoe. The situation of the
camp was peculiarly inviting, the back part being defended by a
thick wood, and the fiont towards the Thames strengthened
by a high cliff. The circular part is fortified by a double vallum.
popQp warlike instruments were discovered a few years since, in

making

mttkiog a walk round tbe caiopaxt. The house and giouads hava
been ctiDsiderably improved bj Mr. ScotU

Hab.j.ey-Foax>, th« seaX of Willuua Clayton, Eaq. wa& erecN
ed from a design of Sir Robert Taylor, in the year 1755, oa
the site of the ancient iaanQr-*house, a very spacious edifice
built on & similar plan to Hurlerj House, on the opposite bai^
of the Thames. This mAosion is not large, but the apartmeots
are very convemently deposed. The library is neat and elegauC
The pictures are chieAy family portraits. I'he house. is sheltered
from the cold blasts of the north by a fine grove, where the
beech and fir display tlveir contrasted verdure. The lawn it
omameuted with venerable chesaut and forest trees. The walks
are extensive, and open to many varied and interesting prospects*
Several sroaU buiUiags afe dispersed through the grounds, the
principal of whi(;fa» the Temi^ of Friendship^ wa» a tribute of
lespect.to this £unily, presented by the late Dr,. Thomas, Eishop
of Rochester. It» architecture is^ neat and appropriat^e, and it«
situation extremely well chosen. Over the door is a short inscri^w
tion, expressive of the grateful. fJdendship of the donor.

Sey hour's Court was anciently the property of the nobif
family of that name, but is now vested in the dean and chapter
of Bristol, The ancient manor^ouse was so much damaged in
the civil wars, that the whoW of it has since been demolished.
Its situation was singularly pleasant, commanding a fine sweep
of the Thames^ the tow^ of Mark>w embosomed in trees, and ^
very beautiful intermixture' of woods, mi'adows, and cultivated
ground. Aocprding to the tradition of the country, tbi& was tha
birth-place of Queen Jane Seymour; though our historians have
given that houor to Wolf-hall^ the lancicnt seat of the Seymours
in Wiltshire.

CREAT MARLQW,

Situated in a very pleasant part of the county, near th»
banks of the Thames, is said by Camden to derive its name fron)
^c chalk, commonly called pnarki ^hU^ iie obsejrves, " being laid

kif;.».liai iadiffiMreiiay ^^«^ luidflki Utlb,
qmied on l;^.Miii|Je. The ahugph iw lulitfynciwit ttniimwi,
Miicaied .to All, Sttiiils. It opniiiU of a bodj$ a«4 tw«k.«W«ji
with a. tiiDsqpt dividiiu: it frQiB.4i«,Gh«ii6tl; Ebnia tlpa tMfft
njMiL^wQod«|i.flf]re, built iQ.thflrj|itsrljGi27.' Tliqriapfiaiiiiibjai
and decent. In the front gallery iaalMqy ba«A<»pa,i ^radidf
h^f mkvaiftjQn io 17 JS- The Qh«a(ceLi»-jep^rate4<fiPQ8i.thie.n»ve
bjf an ancient itoner screen. The akai; is; of eakf hindiomelgff
cawed. . The.qhuivh ooDleiiM^.e.iiiiinber .p£. manaiiiMiil lawspg
ttons, bqt nat uy^j^toicwini^of yerrinilar notJca, t

The o|d bi^ip aQnin.lhe Thamea at l^iarhraM •{||eai«-«Kl»t«k
beeorpf iwiy i:eiDfM]ite'uU Among, the. ptieiit mlla of- tha

'^ower, iir^ g^wla, d^led during thiaxfignsr of Bdwacd the *EUi4»
4ichajrd the Secoad^ and Ueniy the.Fourlii,. •llawiQg.llie beiliflk
t9. tahe^t^Us of all.nt^ds,. wajpes^ iaerchandisf% «Bd»cattt»». aaipb
sung^over or nndcv thef bndgpi the reQfeigti^ to be esG^todadr iba
rppfiin. . Part of Uiis bridga was destroyed by the -an&jK <i£ Mafar
Gei^^ral. Brown' in. 16411 ; and. thie Parliament ordered, a coimly*
rale to be. levied. for its reparation. In 1787 this stnicturei Imk
comings ruinous and unsafe,, occasioned an applicatioa- to ba
made to the county, for rebuilding it; but the magistrates- not
thinking the evidence of its bein^ a county bridge conclusivoi
refused to accede to the request ; on which the Marquis of Buckf»
ipgliam proposed a subscription, and. ISOOL was raised in dm
year I79^f when the present bridge was erected.. It is a common
dious wooden fabric, with the ballustrades painted white. in imi-
tation of stone work. The contiguous ^coacry is richly variegated
w|th the foliage of different colored wortds.

The principal charitable institutions are two ^-ce-schools, foun-
ded by Sir William Borlase about lfi24. One is for Ucnty-four.
boys, of whom three arc chosen from ]\Iedmcnham,Aad tbrfie.from.
Great Marlow. The other is for the s^me number of giris^w^Oy by,
the articles of endowment, were to be taught to knit, spia, aad
make lace ; but the latter branch is neglected, the trustees aU
WgXAgy that the estates arc inadequate for the purpose. The
bdys are allowed fi>rty shilling each to put U^cm a|>preatic««

Th^

H» ttliiwJMnises for poor widows were foimiJpri m poNuatice (#']
u. 4ee^ ol' tn»l, dftn-d July tt>th, lt»0,1. and executed by JdiA 1
Bntikbttnt. Esq. file f^nts of (he wtare aitprofn-istcd for thdf J
support now mmount to forty-two pmmds ^farlv; this f
bled the trustees tu b-W t«T>pfM«iis to ihe csiablishment, v.hitl
ofiginally consisWd M ottH four. Spi-pwI othi-T benefiiciio
bmve at various lifim been ^r4tpd \n trustees foT l4)e use of tl
poor.

Some *MT* Iraees of a cdrpomtKin are di»covemljlc i
cords conetming cite li>wn, Uil it dews not appear that any cho
ter for its gifveminent was ever ubtHincti. Thp last mention dfj
tfce mftyor -HtiH burgeww occur* about ihe conclusiun of ttAiJ
foartwuih cmtUT^, TIte writ for the rqwir of the bridge, dntel
135'J, is iHrectptJ Probu Iwrn'mibin vilLr rfe Mer/nwe. The Rti
return for the borough occurrtri in rite 2eih of Edward the Fiw^
when HichBrtt le MoimeT and ?lii?lmrd te Veel were chosen as its
representatives in the Parliamptit lield tt Lincoln. It continued
Mwnd Members till llic Mcnnd of r,dwArd the Second, after
sirhich no returns s>ere made for 314 years, till tbc2Is( of James
the First, when. wn< pctiliim to the House of Commons, the
ppirtlei!e wan restoretl. The right of election is in the inbnbi-
twits paying scot and lot, to which no hoasc under 31. is rated.
The fiiHnber of voters arc about WO, The parish of Cteat
Mfltlow oiniains ncnrly 60OOacrps; of which 800 arewoodlanrip |
300 meadow, and 4300 arable, diviifed into 39 fiirnis; nca
tiSO houses, and 3iOO inhabi(anr!>.

l.riTI,i£ M.\RLOW,

A VILLAGE about one mile and a half eastward of the
town, was part of the possessions of Edith, Edward the Couloi
sor's Queen. On the Ciinttoest i' was gitrcn by King Willia;
the Hishop of BuieiiK; but haiing eschritled to the Crowi
appcnrs* to have been given by WiclianI Cteurdc Lion to
ibor John, whose daughttrXtraiior wwivej'cd it as part of h'd

• S« Lmglty'> Hondjrd of Dobomuflh.

382 XDCKIHOBAMSRIHl.

dowry to William Mareschal,Earl of Pembroke, from whom it cuno
into the possession of Gilbert, Earl of Clare. Its further deaceut U
involved in some obscurity ; but it wems to have been attached
to the Benedictine nunnery founded here about the r^gn of Hen-
ry the Second; by whom is uncertain. On the dissolution it was
granted to Bisham Abbey, and, after passing through two or
three hands, became the property of John Borlase, Esq.
uho«c family was anciently siiuatcd in Cornwall, but came to
fi^iJe hereabout lj()0, anil by their generous hospitality soon
ibn . 3art. the lust male beir of

il^ betjuealhiog his estates
d Arthur Warren, Esq. of
Qin she bad issue, Borl&^e
..^11, r orlase Warren, BarU (ere-

■ ivnjgni □! uie Batb for his eminent services in the present
wor) sold it to William Lee Antonie, the present possessor.

The manor-house is an ancient irregular building, standing
iicar the church, but has nothing in it deserving observation.
The church h a small decent cdilice ; the interior of which has
been lately repaired with a new pulpit, desk, and pews. Scarce-
ly ^y part of the convent is now standing, the principal materials
having been used in the construction of a farm-house. The pa-
rish contains about 31S2 acres ; of which 22S5 are arable and
pasture, Gji woodland, 70 gardens and orchards, and the re-
mainder common or waste land. The number of farms is 30;
houses 133; and inhabitants about 600. The population hai
incrcaied nearly one fourth within the lost century.

WOOBURN

Is a flourishing village, situated in a pleasant narrow vaUvy, trilk
a river meandering through its bosom, and giving motion to mv»-
ral corn and paper mills. Previous to th^ NonnaA ,ii>*«tioa>
it belonged to Eart Harold, but after that evaat becana tW
property of the See of lincoln, under whoM b»kop Rarai^iMi it
was probably sepanted iiM6 the manors of Bi*h(f 's WootnuV)

BUCKIVOHAMSHXRB. <S8^

and Woobarn Deyncourt. The former remained attached to
Lincoln^ and became the favorite scat of its bishops, the rectory
being converted into the episcopal palace; but was alienated in
1547} and two years afterwards granted to John, Duke of Bed*
ford, whose son sold it about 1580 to Sir John Goodwin. The
latter was held of the above See by Walter Deyncourt, in whose
family it continued till the year 1420, when William, the last
male heir, dying a minor, was succeeded by his sister Alice,
married to William, Lord Lovcll, whose grandson Francis,* in*
herited her estates, which, on his attainder, at the commencement
of the reign of Henry the Seventh, reverted to the Crown. By
Henry the Eighth the manor was granted for a certain term to
Sir William Compton, (ancestor to the Earls of Northampton,)
whose posterity inherited it till the latter end of the reign of
Elizabeth, who granted it in perpetuity to Robert Spencer and
Robert Atkins, Esqs. but it soon afterwards became vested in the
Goodwins, by the marriage of Sir John Goodwin with the daugh-
ter of Sir William Spencer^ and thus the two manors again
were united. In the reign of Charles the First, Jane, the sole
heiress of the Goodwins, married Philip, Lord Wharton.

This Nobleman having succeeded to the estates of the Good-
wins, made Winchenden his principal place of residence till the
decease of bis lady, after which he resided at Woobum. His
lordship appears to have been a friend to the principles through
which Charles the First was ejected from the throne, and was one
of the Commissioners sent by Parliament to Scotland ; yet, as he
had taken no decided part in the execution of the Monarch, he
was, at the Restoration, permitted to retire into privacy. The op-
pressive conduct of James the Second again called him to the busy
world, and he had the pleasure of *^ seeing his exertions in favor of

constitutional

• This nobleman was made knight of the garter by Richard the Third, whose
cause he had embraced, and likewise one of his ministers. The quibbling distich
written by William CoUingboume, and for which he was brought to the gallowt
under pretence of rebellion, refer to this Francis. The verse was as followi :

" The cat, the nt, and Lovell the dog,
" Rule all England under the hog."

384 "BVtKiwenAMsnnt.

romtittttfonal liberty sealed by the Bill of Rights." Wllhira the
Third visited him al Wooburn soon after he had obtained posses*
«on of the crtmn. Lord Wharton died in 1(^5, at the advanced
age of 83, and wfts succeeded by Thomas his son, whose attach-
ment to the cause of freedom was eminently displaj^cd by the
first draught of the invitation to the Prince of Orange, which is
said to Imve been composed by his Lordship. For this and other
•en'ices he was made privy counsellor by King William ; and in
the year 1706 was created Viscomit Winchenden and Earl
Wharton, for his conduct in settling the terms of the union with
Scotland. In the high political disputes which divided the na-
tion during the latter years of Queen Anno, his Lordship opposed
the Ministry ; yet soon after the accession of George the First,
he was made Lord Privy Seal; and on the first of Januaiy, 1715,
created Marquis of \Vhartan and IVIalmsbury. These honors he
enjoyed but a short time, for he died on the 12th of April fol-
lowin«», and was succeeded by the versatile Philip, of whom we
have before spoken.* This inconsistent and extraordinary
character, whose life being regulated by no principle, dis-
played a mingled series of absurd and contradictory actions,
resigned his breath in a di'^graceful obscurity at a small monas-
tery in Spain. His vigor of talent, and strange impropriety of
conduct, have been finely described by Pope in his Moral Essays.

Wharton, the scoru and wonder of our dayS|
Whose ruling passion was the lust of praise;
Born with whatc'er could win it from the wise,
Women and fools must like him, or he dies.
Though wondering senates hung on all he spoke,
The club must hail him roaster of the joke.
Shall parts so various aim at nothing new ?
He'll shine a Tully and a Wilmot too;
Then turns repentant, and his God adores
With the same spiiit that he drinks and whores |
Enough, if all around him but admire;
And now the punk applaud, and now the friaf.

Thus

* See description of Wobum, Ecdfordthirc.

3«3

^^P After the Duke'a decease, Woobum was sold to John Morse,
Esq. whose neicc and heiress was wife to Peregrine Bertie, Esq.
men till thi; year 17S4, when it vraa
: Rebecca Du Pre, whose son

Thut with eath giitof oitun: lad of nt,
nd winting nothing bul an huneil heirtj
town all 10 all, fram no one vice cKcmpt,
ad man contempliblc to tbun contempt (
ii pusion ilill to covet genenl pniie;
Hit life, to rorhit ii a thouwid wiyi;

t bounty, which no [riend hu mide;
An tngcl tongue, which no man can pcnuade;
ool, with more of wit than half mankind :
I ruh for ihoughi, far action too refin'd ;
A tyrant to the wife hii heart approvea,
A rebel to the very king he lovei',
Ht dl«, >ad outcau oF each church and itale,
And, harder itill, Uagltiaui, yet not gie*t.

lliis family remained (
purchased by the late M
present lord of the mane
Earl Wharton is said
tbe grounds belonging ti

Iha

have expended 100,0001. in altering
□ the manor-house, which was surround-
i ancient character of feudal
magnificence.* The gardens, as improved by the EUrl, were in
that age highly celebrated, and arc reported to have been a lins
of terraces on the side of the hill which has since been converted
into pasture. The mansion was very large, and the apartments
■pacious. The gallery was ISO feet in length, and contained the
»ery celebrntcd collection of portraits of the Wharton &niily
which were afterwards purchased by Sir Robert Walpole.
Vol. I. C c This

^^ * In ID cxttniivc witdemcu ia th« vicinity of the hotue, " a quamiiy of
^Y>1^ ■»EcI>> to the value of jot. wu diicoverrd about thirty yean ilnce, and an
mppoaed to have lieen concealed in the great Rebcliion. There i> a Iridition that
■t thai period Lord Wharton concealed 6o,OOOl. In ■ wood, called Weii Wood,
and that at the KcUoration he could not recollect the exact tpol, the only per.
foa privy to the trinucilon being ciihri dnd or in exile, but thai, after clearing

^^Ulroact

, the whole w

Langley'i Hondicd of Doborong

386 BCCKIKOHAHSHIRE.

This mansion was taken down in the year 1750, and the ma-
terials sold for 8001. Soon afterwards one oC the stable wings
was fitted up as a dwelling-house by Mr. Bertie; and in 1769 the
whole was new fronted, and converted into a convenient family
residence, by the erection of some additional apartments. The
Wycombe stream flo\^'s through the garden and meadows. The
chapel connected with the old manor-house, is still mentioned in
terms of admiration by the aged inhabitants of the village.

In a small room adjoining to this structure, named Uttlc Ease,
from the inconvenient manner in which it was constructed, some
of those unfortunate people, whom a corrupted prelacy called
heretics, were confined in the latter end of the reign of Henry
* the Seventh. The palace was then inhabited by Bishop Smith,
whose zeal for persecution appears to have been heightened by
die constant perusal of a manual which he had composed from
directions contained in a larger work, for the behaviour of eccle-
siastics towards those who held heterodox opinions. Thomas
Chiico, of Amersham, who had given offence by his religious
tenets, was seized, in 1 0O6, and having in vain been exhorted to
recant, was imprisoned ])y the Bishop in the above chamber. TTie
Bishop's chaplains next attempted to induce him to renounce the
principles of iiis belief; but neither arguments nor threatenings
having any influence, tiiey strangled, and pressed him to death
privately. To conceal the knowledge of this detestable transaction,
as well as to stigmatize tlie memory of their immolated victim,
tliey reported that ho Ijad hanged himself in his prison, on which
he was di'^^raci- fully buried as a suicide in Norland Wood, in a
hi;ili\sav between Wooburn and Little Marlow.

Wooburn church is a large ancient building, with a nave, two
aisles, and a good tower. It contains several monuments
of the Bertie and Wharton families. The one to tiie memory of
Pliilipf Lord Wharton, who died in 1693, is a handsome muml
monument of grey marble. The font is a curious and ancient
piece of carved work. This parish contains *259^ acres, princi-
pally disposed in arable and wood land ; about 230 houses, and
1200 inhabitants. The Wycombe stream runs through the

wholf

DUCKIWGirAlf

whale p&ri^li, and <^ve9 motion to several com anil paper mills.
Oh Hollipor Hvatfa tliere wii formerly d very lai^ beech-tree,
in which a small wooden house was built by some of the Wharton
family, for the accoinmixlitlion of ihcmselvcs and friends at tho
annuat races.

Henson LoaoE, the elegant mansion of Frederick Lnrd
&Mton, was erected by hit Lordship in the year I77S) and, from
its situation oa a lofty eminence, which commands a very richly
diversified country, its internal decorations, and convenient
domestic arrangements, has been made a most desirable and com-
nio(fious residence. The grounds are distinguished for their high
sloping hills, deep vallie*, and the wild luxuriant foliage of the
woods, which combining with Ihe t.old swells or abrupt depres-
sions of ihc surface, jjroduce some very beautiful and picturmque
scenery, Tlic view from the hrow of the bill, with the village
church embosomed in trees, ■' the silver-winding stream of the
lliamet," and the distant hills, clothed with beech wood, is un-
commonly fine. In the dining-room, among other portraits,
there is one of William Lord Facet, who was made Knight
of the Bath at the coronalion of Charles ihc First : yet at the
commcnceraciit <if the civil commotions, he was distinguished for
his opposiliou to that Monarcli, and appointed Lieutenant of
Bucks by the Parliament. In this capacity he executed the ordi-
nance for raising the militia with much spirit, and conliibuted
more horses fur their service than au' oilier person of the same
quality ; but soon afterwards joined the King, and continued in
great favor with the royal party till the Ilcstoration. Lord
Boston is a descendant from this Nobleman by the female line.

Clibfdbn became celebrated frnm its magniliceat mansion,
erected by George Viilars Second Duke of Buckingham, in tho
reign of Charles the Second: but this edifice, which had been
greatly improved by Frederick, I'rince of Wales, who resided
many years on this delightful spot, wa; almost wholly destroyed
by fire on the SOth of May, 1795. The confl^ration spread
with such rapidity through the building, that scarcely a remoatlt
uf its superb I'tirniturc or splendid paintings co'ild' be preserved.
C c !■ T!..

388 BncKiKonAHflnisE.

Th« wings were the only pnrts of this stately fabric that escaped
the flames. The terrace occupies the brow of the very lofty
eminence on which the house was situated, and is reported to
be higher than that at Windsor, whose castle and contiguous
buildings constitute the prominent objects of the view. The de-
cKvity towariis the Thames is finely hung with naioral woods ;
aod the prospect of the roeanderings of that river, with the piolific
meadows nourished by its waters, are extremely beautiful.

Near the bottom oCCIiefden Wood rises a small spring, which
blliog over H rugged ledge, forms a beautiful cascade: uid
theocc murmuring over its pebbly bed, winds onwards to the
Thames. Poetry, says a late writer, " would consider it as the
crystal tribute of the Dryads of the woods paid to the Naiads,
of the stream."

The wretched end of the founder of this once noble residcoc*
has been finely commemorated by Pope ; and as some of the ,
lines refer to the dissipated scenes transacted on this spot, they
seem justly to claim recital.

Id the wont inn't wont toom, with mil hiirhung.
The floorl of pl»Mr, »nd ihc wilU of dung,
On once a flock-bed, but rcpiii'd wilh ttnv/,
Wilh ape-Iy'd cuitaini, nevfr ineiiii to dnw.
The Gmrge ind Gincr dnigling from ihit bed
Whew laurdry yellow tttove with diny «d,
Ginc VIHiii ha. Alii) how chang'd horn him,
Thil life dI pleuare,^»il that loul of whim I
CilJaDi ind pij, in Cticfdea'i proud ■Icovt,
The bow'iof wanton Shrewibuiy aad Lore.*
Or pi., gay « council, in. ring
Of mimick'd lUtcimcn aad ihrit merry King.
No wil to (laUer left of ill hii »oit<
No fool to laugh .t, which he valueJ more.
Thei«, victor of hit health, o! fortuuc, fricndi,
AikI lamc^ thii I.atd of lueleu ihoiuudt, cadi.

MoKAL EllKlt.

■ Thil line alludo to the Duke'i intrigue with the CounKss of Stuvwibaiy,
which occu'oned a duel between him and her huiband, when the latter wa
alain. It hat been i.id ihtt the CounlcM, dliguited ai i page, held the Oukft
horie during the romlut, and afierwirdi ilept with him in the ihirt itained
blood. The Duke died on the leihof April, 168a, Hiht
Kiiby-Hoor Side, nearHolmily, Yorkihiic

^^^k^Mueof 1

Ir k small market-
firom the term Bcocow, eit
eminence whtreon it is situs
«miTience has btva ([ppKcd.
brick, and disposeil intu Tn
positions, assume the form
pnsed wih flint and sqitai
chancel, and siile aisles, u

supposed to have derived Its name
er significant of the commanding
:d, or of the purpose to which that
The houses are built with flint and
r Mreets, which, from their relative
rf a cross. The church is cora-
stones. It consists of a nave,
:h a tower at the west end. The

inside k neatly plastered and whitewashed. In the south aisle,
a small and plain mural tablet of marble has been lately put up,
to record the memory of that great and most resplendent gentui
Edmund BuFhe, who died at Butler's Court, in this parish. The

i as follows ;

Nnr (hii Pile,

Alldiilwnmorulof t)»

Right Honcinblc EDKUNb BuiKi,

Who died an ihe 91)1 of Jul/, 1797,

Agird 68 YoTi.

In tlic ume Gnvc are dcpmiied

Thr Remain, of

Nil only Son. Ricmaud Buhkf, Eiq.

RtpiumullK in Pailiimail

For the BoTough of Walloa,

Who died 00 the >d of Auguil, 179^,

Ag<d 35.

Brother, RiCHAsn Buixi

Bani<lit at Law.

And Rfcoidcr of the C.ty of Bi

Vho died 00 the .)lh of Fcbrtiaiy,

E«i.

791-

Bj- some inscriptions on the gallery ir appears, that the poor
of this town enjoy the beneHi of several dunations. Mr, Thomas
Read left, by will, the interest of lOOl. to be laid out for bread,
and given to ihe poor every Christmas. Edmund Waller, Esq!,
by will, dated 3Cith August, 1699, gave to the poor of Beaconsfield

Cc3

and

390 SVCKINCHAMSBIKS.

and Amcrsbani, lOOl. each, to be laid out in the purchase of
lands; tlic rents to be annually appropriated to the sajue purpose.
Henry Clonebery, by will, gave 22+1. to purchase land); the
income to be distributed to the poor every new year's day, with
the exception of 20^. directed to be given to the minister for
preaching a serniun.

In the church-yard is a table monument of white marble,
which records the memory ol the Poet Mailer, and is ornamented
with a [jvramiti Ju (he coiiiit, iirni lour uiiis at tlio corners.
On each tide is a Lalia in^icription. That qo the west concludes
Wilb the siogular cApieuion, thitt, " He had so impraved his
native L«Q£:ua^,tbatwijcnevcr the Mu»es should rciMUOce Greek
and Latin, they would discourse in English." The line» inKxibed
on the east side are worthy of prciervalion, as they lecord cgnft
parliculan of btniscif and family. They arc to this cflect,

Edhunii Walllk, lo whoini>iii Marble ii urrcd,

Kti 1 Kilive of Col.-ihiU, ■ad ) Sludoil at Cimbiidgc-

Mii FiihcrwaiRDbcn; liii Mother of the Huripdm Fimily.

He VII born ihe goih of March, 16O5,

HJi iirsi Wife wu Anne, only Diugbtet and Uorcu of Edwiid Banki.

Twice inide a Fatbei by hii Sta. Wife, uid Thirieai Timei by hii Second,

Whom he lurvi'veil Eight Yean, heiici the tin of Oclobei, 16S7.

Hall Bark, the once celebrated seal of Waller, by whom
it was built, is about one mite south of Beaconslicld, and before
the improvements of modern times, was cunsidered us a magni-
licent abode. It is now the property of Mr. Edmund AValler, a
descendant of Ihe Puei's, whose fami'ly have long been inhatn*
tants of this neighbourhood.

Wallek was the nephew of the great Hampden, and proba^
biy by bis intiucncc was returned Burgess for Amershara bcfora
he was eighteen. Jlis conduct in the earlj- part of his poli-
tical career appears to have been fornicd on his uncle's prin-
ciples, for be opiioscd the measures of the court with such
energetic vehemi:nce, that he was chosen manager of the in^
pcachmcnt against Judge Crawley, whose decision on the great
<lucstion of ship-raoiicy had been in Tavor of the King. Withi^

iRxcxuronAiiiiHiRB* S91

two years afterwards bis opinions were so muck changed,
that he engaged in a conspiracy, whose object was to ^' seize
the Tower, and admit the Monarch's forces into the city, to
surprise the militia, and dissolve the Parliament." The despicable
cowardice he displayed when the plot was discovered, and his
abject and garrulous confessions, saved his life ; tliough the
ftir-lcss guilty Tomkins and Chaloner were executed before
their own doors.

After paying a fifie of 10,000l. Waller was released from a twelve-
months imprisonment, and went to France ; but the splendor of
Bis establishment having reduced him to distre«s, he obtained
permission of Cromwell to return to England. He now jDccame
acquainted with the Protector, and wrote a panegyric on hit
conduct; but at the period of the Restoration employed " his
imagination, his elegance, and bis melody, with equal alacrity
for Charles the Second.*' " He that has flattery," savs Dr.
Johnson, " ready for all whom the vicissitudes of the world hap-
pen to exalt, must be scorned as a prostituted mind, that mdy
retain the glitter of wit, but has lost the dignity of virtue,^
Towards the decline of life, he purchased a small estate at Coles»
hill, his natal spot, and said, ** I Ic should be glad to die hke tha
stag, where he was roused." This, however, did not happen, for
he drew his last breath at Beaconsfield.

Butler's Court, formerly called Gregorys, the scat of the
widow of the late Edmund Burke, Esq. is about one mile north*
west of Beaconsfield. The front of the house is very similfir tq
the Queen's Palace, St. James's. The centre is connected with
the two wings by colonnades, each supported by eight Corinthian
columns. The grounds are pleasing, but not extensive. The
country immediately surrounding, is finely diversified with beech
and coppice woods, hills, vallies, and inclosures. Beaconsfield,
we believe, became the property of Mr. Burke through the friend-
ship of the Marquis of Rockingham and I>ord Verney, whose
munificence enabled him to make the purchase through which
he was furnished with an elegant retreat, and enabled to pursue
his studies unembarrassed by want, and free from those perplex-

Cc4 • ing

393 BVCKINSHAHSHIKI.

ing cores by which the opemtions of genius are too freqnentlf
retarded. The apartments at Butler's Court contain some ex-
cellejit paintings by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and also some valuable

Wilton Pakk, the seat of James Du Pre, EUq. is nearly one

mile and a half north-easl of BeaconsGeld. The house was built

from the denigiis of Mr. Jupp, late surveyor to the £ut-lndia

Company, by the late Governor Du Ptu, but finished by bis

widow about twenty yenr^ since, it is a neitt square edilice,

\ted in k fine park of about 3jO acres,

if«ti leefiii, and elm tree*. Tha

d pictures ; some of whicb

ling's cclebrac«d collectioa.

BL'LSTRODE,

About three miles cast of Beucunsfield, is the principal seat
of the Duke of Portland, but ua^ foriuerly possesdcd by tlur
BuLvlrodes. who had been letiidont in ibis county since the
reign nf Edward tbe Fourth, This heiress of this family waa
mother a( Bulitrode \Vhitelock, tiw relebrated statesman before
nenliaiiod, on uho^e death it passeu to l)te inlaiiious Judge Jef-
fcries, and on Vis attainder, at the fievolutioui it reverted tu the
Ootirii. William the Third granted it to WiUiani Bciitiock,
the liist Earl of Portland, fruni ubum it has descended to thq
present Duke,

. The park contains about SOD acres, diversified with bold swells,
almost rising into mountuins, atid a great number of deep sweep-
ing valleys, crossing and intersecting the grounds in several di-,
rections. This pleasing ineiiuality of surface, constituting
ibc greatest beauty in the outline of Nature's scenery, was deem*
cd by some of our fuicfaibers a defect, which ihey endeavoured
(o icmove by immense labor and vast expense. This is particur
larly apparent at fiii|strodc, where the bill was depressed, and
the valley filled, in order to make strait terraces and flat
lawns. But Nature hat found an advocate in the present N
PrDprietor, who has eapotued hv FW^t PAd iwept away toura

«f thme deformities which false tasW or fmshion htd impoacil.
The houie is built widi brick, and forms three siJcs of a qua-
draiigle. with two wings, li is siiunlcd on ah flcvnteO piece of
ground, which is neuH) «urr<'uiiJed by a valloy. To the west
is a fitw grove of old trees, intt-rsperspd with several walks. lead-
ing t<> calm recesses and Huwer gardens. These walks command
many extensive and intere*tin){ views, where llie Forest of Wind-
tor and its Castle, with the blue Surrey Hills, nidling into ihe
borimn, con^tilulc some beautiful dihtaot sccnory.

Among the variety of paintiug<i which ornament the spacious
raansion-houK, the following may be regarded as particularly fine.

Six lariie pictures of boar-hunting, Slug-iiuniing, &c. by Suy-
dersand his I'upil.

Two Lions and a Fawn -. Rubens.

Tower of Babel : Old Franks.

Vir^n and Infant Saviour: Vandyck,
' Ttw Uoly Family : RaphaeL 1'his is a lar^e picture, con-
taining seven figures. The cumpusilion, grouping, expression,
and character, are all excellent.

Inside of a Prison: Stenwiek.

Inside of a Church : P. Neefs.

St. John in tiie Wilderness : Ann, Carracct.

Dutch Kitchen: Bassan.

William the Thikd in his royal Robes: Sir Peter Lely.

William Bp.ntisck, first F.arl of Portland: a fill! length.
Thi) renowned Statesman accompanied the Prince of Oranife to
England in the year \liSS, and was the person honored with the
chief management of the expedition. The transport fleet consisted
of 500 vessels, which, through his cxejiions, had all been
)tinid with the greatest secrecy in three days. For lliis and many
Other eminent services, he was dignified by several titles, made
Knight of the Garter, and had many estates granted to him. He
died at Bulstrude in 1709.

A lai^e drawing of Shipping, finely executed by W. V. Velds
|685.

Two Battle Pieces ; Borgonone.

Four

89* BTTCXtirOttAVSHtllS.

Four smtU Sea Pieces : W. V . Velde.

St. Anthony at his Devotions : H. V. Stenwick, l624.

A small pictare with Horses, &c. WoQTermaiis.

Portrait of Schalkek, by himself.

Landscape, with a WateHali and Rainbow: Barret.

Ruins of Roach Abbey : Barret.

Two pictures of Horses : Stubbs.

Seren Roman Charities : Old Fhmks.

Spaniel Dog in a fine Landscape : S. Gtl|»n.

A large piece, containing a vast assembly of Birds & Beasts :
Roland Savery, 1604.

The Chapel is wainscotted with cedar, and ornamented with
painted glass. On the walls and ceilings are several paintings by
Marco and Sebastian Ricci. Above the communioii table is a
Madona and Child, by Vandyck.

The Park contains between four and five hundred hetd of deer,
and abounds with fine trees. On a hill south-east of the house
there is a very large circular entrenchment, inclosing an area
of 21 acres, with some very large old oaks growing on its banks.

STOKE POGIS

Is a large scattered village, which obtained the appellation Po'
gets from its ancient lords of that name. The heiress of this fami-
ly, in the reign of Edward the Third, married Lord Molincs, who
shortly afterwards procured a license from the King to convert
the manor-house into a castle. From him it descended to the
Lords Hungerford, and from them to the Hastings, Earls of
Huntingdon, and seems afterwards to have been the residence of
the Lord Chancellor Hatton. Sir Edward Coke having married
an heiress of the Huntingdon family, became the next possessor;
and here, in the year l601, he was honoured with a visit from
Queen Elizabeth, whom he entertained in a very sumptuous
style. It was afterwards the seat of Anne, Viscountess Cobhara,
on whose death the estate was purchased by Mr. William Penn,
chief proprietor of Penn-Sylvania, in America, and now belongs

to John Penn, {^sq. his grandson*

The

BUCKINGHAHSHIRB^ 395

The old manor-house* fiirnishcd the subject for the opening
of Gray's humoroxisly descriptive poem called the Long Story, in
which the style of building, and fantastic manners, of Elizabeth's
reign, are delineated with much truth.

Gray, when a student at Eton, occasionally resided with his
aunt in this villagey whose church-yard was the scene of his
much-admired el^y. It was also the place of his interment ;
though neither friend nor relation raised a stone to his memory
till the year 17999 xvben the Genius of Poetry animated the kin-
dred bosom of Mr. Pcnn to perform the long- neglected task.
The monument erected by this gentleman stands in a field ad-
joining the churchy and forms the termination of one of the views
from Stoke House,

It is composed with stone, and consists of a large sarcophagus,
supported on a square pedestal, with inscriptions on each side.
Three of them are selected from the Ode to Eton College, and
liUegy written in a Country Church-Yard : the fourth is as follows:

Tkit liioaiiment, in Honor of

Thomas GaAv,

Was erected A. D. 1799,

Among the Scenery

Celebrated by that great Lyric and Elegiac Poet.

He died in 1771,

And liei unnoticed 'm the adjoining Chttrch-yard,

Under the Tombttooe on which be piotuJy

And pathetically recorded the Interment

Of hij Aunt, and lamented Mother.

Stoks Park is the seat of John Penn, Esq. who within a
few years has made it one of the most charming and magnificent
residences in this part of the county. The house was built in
the year 1789, from designs by James Wyatt, Esq. since when
it ha$ experienced several judicious alterations, and considerable
additions. It is built chiefly with brick, and covered with
stucco, and consists of a largie square centre with two wingSi,
The north, or entrance front, b ornamented with a colonnade,
consisting of ten Doric columns, and approached by a flight of
steps, leading to the Marble Hall. The south front, 196 feet in

length,

^ The ground-plan of this mansion is now in Mr. Penn's possession.

length, is also adorned wiih a colonnade, consisting
Duled columns of ihe old Doric order. Above ihis ascend*; a
prujecling portico, of four Ionic cotgmns, sustnining an oma-
inrntHl pcdimeni. The Marble Hall is ovhI, and contxins four
fine mnrble busts, supfiurlcd on scitgliola pcHesials. The whole
interior li-ngth of ihp ^outh fronl is intended to be occnpied by
an eieganl and well-stored library. Besides severul good portraits
by Leiv and Kneller. the following picccb aredeseningalienlion.

A largp picture, containing four Children of the Penn family,
in a Landscape, by -Sir Joshua Reynold*. This very line piciurt!
may be claimed with those which obtained our grexl English
artist his deserved celebrily. The coloring b chastn and perfect,
the composition is excellent, and the drawing correcL

Three Children of King Charles the First. There are so many
duplicates of ihis exquisite picture, that we arc led to suspect
the oripnality of every one, except where it is accompanied
with -demonstrative evidence. The present picture, we are
assured, U a true Vandyck, whose name it bears. It is finely
colored, and in good preservation.

William Penn, the founder of Penn-Sylvania, a halflength.
This celebrated Quaier was painted in armouraboul the age of 25,

The park, though rather Hat, commamis some very fine views,
purticularly to the south, where the eye is directed over a large
sheet of water lo ihc majestic Castle of Windsor, beyond which
Cooper's Hiil aiid the Forest Woods dose the prospect,
A large lake winds round ihc east side of tlie house, with a neai
slone bridge thrown over it. The lake was originally formed by
Kichmond, but it has been considerably altered by Repton, who
also directed the laying out of the park. About 300 yards from
the north front of the house is a Landsomi- tlutcd column, 68 feel
high, lately erected from a design by Mr. Wyatt, On the top
is a culossal statue of Sin Edward Coke, by Rosa,

FARNiiiM Royal, a manor adjoining Stoke, wu formerly
held by its diifcrent possessors, on the condition of (tiling the
right-hand of the King with a glove on the day of bis Corona-
lion, and supjiortinj his arm while he held the sceptre.

aucotun

The i

situn jl

ETON COLLEGE,

The noble seminary of learning founded in the year 1440, by
(he unfortunale Henry the Sixth, " has every advantnice from
silualion which the luxuriant hand of naturo can bestow." The
valley in which it stands is both healthy and fertile ; and the
vicinity of the Thames, which rolls its pellucid stream at a short
distance from its wall?, contributes to its pleasant nest atid
beauty.

This foundalioD was origioally endowed for a " proTost, ten
piiests, six clerks, ^ix chonsters, twenty-five poor grammar
scholars, with a master to teac^h them, and twcnty'liTe poor old
men; and ihoiigh some of its endowment was laien away by Edward
the Fourth, yet, being iiarticularly excepted in the act of diaso-
lution, it still subsists in a flourishing state,"* and now supports
a provost, vice~provost, and seventy scholars, besides various
officers and assistants.

The scholars on this ftmndution are annually elected to Kin^i
College, Cambridge, but not removed till the occurrence of va-
cancies, when they are called according to seniority ; and, after
they have continued at Cambridge three years, are entitled to ■
fellowship. Besides the King's scholars, there are seldom lew
than 300 noblemen and gentlemen's sons, who board with the
Masters, and receive their education at this seminary.

The college consists of two fjuadrnngles. One of them is
appropriated to the school, (which is divided into lower and up-
per, and each subdivided into three classes.) and the lodging of
the masters and scholars; the other contains the apnrtmcnts of
the provost and fellows, and likewise the library, which is regard-
ed as one of the finest in Europe, its original stock of books
having been augmented at different periods, with collections he-
(^iienthcd or given to ihe coHegc by various literary characters.
Some very valuable dmwi/igs, paintings, and orieninl manuscripts,
are numbered with the rare and curious article* here presemd.

BVCEIXCHilMSDlBB.

Is lae'pnrrost s i.partincnts

.portl

It of J.

ARE ^UOKK*

pninted on panncl, end considered as original. The forehead ia
UrgH, but the features are small and uoititercsiing. The hair is s
yellowisli auburn. Her only covering is a. thin veil, thrown
loosely over hi^r shouldeTs. The principal argumeni for the
genuineness of the portrtiit, is the circumstance of the confcasor

^of this celebrated favorite havi;^ been provust of the college.
The chapel is a fine gothic structure, ornoincoted with ptnna*
cles and embrasures, and very simitar in its disposition of puts
to that of KingS College, Cambridge ; and has, therefore, with
much appearance of probability, been attributed lo the same
architect. Mr. Baker, the Cambridge anli(|uary, informed Mr.
Walpole, that his Dame was Cloos, father of Nicholas Cloos, one
of the first fellows of the above college, aiid afVenvards Bishop
of Litchfield: bat Godwin observes, that the designer of the works
lishop hiraaclf."

TTie origin of the singular custom celebrated at Eton every

bird year on >Vhit Tuesday, under the name of the Mohteu,

p«nnot be satisfactorily aacertaincd, but may be traced as far

Eback as the reign of Eliaibeth, ivho, when on a visit to the col-

!, desired lo see an account nf the ancient ceremonies observed

re from the period of its foundation. In the list was an

ttimiml procession of the scholars, who on those occasions repeat-

Wti vencs, and gathered money from the public far a dinner, and

pother purposes. The ceremony of late years has been cotiduct-

ivith more rq^rd to decorum than formerly ; and the institu-

i lion has been patronized by their Majesties, who frequently honor

the celebration with their presence, as well m a liberal subscrip-

tioD. On these occasions (he whole school are assembled, and

Rrrsnged in military order, with music and colors. The &ncy

I dresses of the Salt Bearers, and those denominated Scouti, are of

Indifferent colored silks. Kver^' person in the vicinity of Windsot

ixpcctcd at theie triennial assemblies to give something to-

rd what is callod nab-fitoniy ; and ditferent parties arestatioued

t) all the neighbouring i-oa<U, to levy contributions from paamn-

B (erf. whose refusal to hi ii salt, would, perhups, be attended witll

danger.

400

SVCKITiaillMRRIKS.

er the

danger. The amotint of the sums collected is generdly feMB
six huQilrvd to eight hundred pounds. This is |[iven to the Cap-
taia or Koior of tlie boys wi the Eiing's foundatioDr previously Is
his removal to Ciunbrid)^.

The village of Eton has of late yean been considerafalyfl
proved, many of the houses having been rebuilt, and others 4
puired in thr modem style, k eonsisU principally of one straet^''
connected with the town of Windsor by a bridge thrown
Thames.

COLNBROOK
Is an ancient tov,7i( situated on several channels of the
Colne, over each of which there is a small bridge. Camden afhnita
it to have been the Paiite* of the Intincrary: Gale, Baxter,
and some others, agree with his opinion ; but Leiand places that
station al Krii/icg, in Berkshire; Salmon, at Dorking, in Sur-
rey; and Horsiey, at Old Windsor. The market -bouse and cba-
pel, which stood in a narrow part of the town, have been laidjF
removed by the cornmisiioners of the turnpike-roads, and a
neat chajtcl erected in a more convenient situation. The inhabi-
tants are chiefly supported by the expenditure of tiuvellers.
Some of the small islands formed by the different branches of the
Colne in this neighbourhood, are supposed by Ciimden to have
been the places where the Danes sc-curcd theinscivcs from the
attacks of Alfred in the year 8^4: but Bi&hop Gibson, with mon
probability, refers their successful deJcnce to the ble of Mersey,
formed by the river Cuin, in Essex,

MISCELLANEOUS.

In the north aisle of the church at Newport I'agnelt, i:
year l6lp, the body of a miin wa't found, with all the hollow
part* of the body, and of every hone, filled with lead, The scull,
with the lead in it, weighed thirty pounds, si.-, ounces. It is now
In St. John's Colit^ Library, Cambridge: and before it was
rolled al>out, and battered, bnrc as great resemblance to lead, as
petrified wood docs to sroiic.

LIST

or THB

Principal Books^ Maps^ and Views^ that have been
published in Illustration of the Topography and
Antiquities of the Counties contained in this Volume.

BEDFORDSHIRE.

Collections towards the History and Antiquities of Bedfordshire^
containing the ^< Parishes of Puddington, Luton, and Dunstable,"
4to, 1782, with Plates.

" An Historical Account of the Parish of Wimmington, by Oli-
ver St. John Cooper," 4to, 1785.

" An Historical Account of the Parish of Odell, by Oliver St.
John Cooper," 4to, 17S7.

The above Works are contained in the Bibliotheca Topograpbica.

" A short yet a true and faithful Narration of tlie fearefull Fire
that fell in the Towne of Wbburne, the 13th September, i595,**
Lond. lamo, by Thomas Wilcocks.

In the Philosophical Transactions, No. 379, is Mr. Holloway's
Account of the Fullers' Earth Pits; and in No. 4S6, Mr. Ward's
Remarks on a Roman Tessera found at Market-Street.

Pennant's Tour from Chester to London contains an Account of
Dunstable, Woburn, Ampthill-Park, Wrest, Luton, and a few other
Places, 4tu, 178a. Some Particulars of Woburn and Dunstable
may also be foimd in Bray's Tour, 1783. An Antique Coffin and
Runic Inscription, found at Woburn Abbey, are described in the
Gentleman's Magazine, April, 1749.

In Carter's Antiquities are some Etchings of the Architectural
Ornaments, &c, of Dunstable Priory.

JefFcreys published an Actual Survey of this County in 8 Sheets,
on a Scale of two Inches to a Mile. Many Errors in this Map arc
corrected, and several Additions made, in a New Map ot the
County, divided into Hundreds, and published in Smith's " New
English Atlas," January, 1801.

Views of x]\e Priories of Bedford, Dunstable, and Chicksand,
of Harwood Nunnery, and Warden Monastery, have been engraved
by Messrs. Bucks ; the Remains of the Tower at Luton, by
Rooker, from a Drawing by P. Sandby, published in the Virtuoso's
Museum; a Plan of Wrest House, Gardens, &c. by J. Rocque^
1735; and a View of Bedford Bridge, drawn by J . Walker, and
engraved by Medland, in the Copper Plate Magazme, Vol, II.

BERKSHIRE.

** The Antiquities of Berkshire," by EliasAshmole, 3 Volumes,
8vo, Lond. 1719, 1723. This was reprinted at Reading in 1736,
under the Title of ** The History and Antiquities of Berkshire,
&c." Folio.

Vol. I. D d " Account

LIST OF BOOKS, &C.

" Account of some Anilquilies between Windsor and OifoA
by Thonui Heanie, Svo, L. P. Oxford, i7»j,

" Letter toDc, Metd concerning wme Antiquities in Berltihire,"
by Mr. Francis Wiie. *to, Oxford. i7jS. This was replied to in
a Pamphlet called " The tmpertineoceand Imposture of modem
Antiquaries displayed. Sec." 410, Lond. written by Mr. Asplio,
Vicar of Banbury, (under the Signature of PhiUthet Rusticus,)
who was deservedly Teprchcnded in another Pamphlet by Mr.
George North, Reetorof Coddicote, Herts, in his " Answer to a
scandalous Libel, entitled" " The Imccrtinence, &c."4to, Lond.
i7*j. Mr. Wise, the same Year, piiblistied '* Further Observations
upon the While Horse, and other Antiquities in Berkshire, with an
Account of Whileleaf Cross, Burks, &c." 410, Oxford.

"History and Antiquities of Windsor Castle," by J. Pote.
Cm//, 4to, Eton, 1749.

" History of that tnost famous Saint and Soldier of Christ Jcsiis,
St. George of Cappadocia, &c. to which is subjoined, the Institu-
tion of the most Noble Order of St. Geoi^e, named the Garter,"
by Dr. Heylen, 4I0, i6ji.

" The Institution, Laws, and Ceremonies, of the Most Noble
Order of the Garter," by Eliai Ashmotc, Lond. Fol. with fine
Engravings by Hollar, 1&71. Thiswas abridgedand re-published by
Walker, under the Title of " The History of the Most Noble Order
of the Garter, and the teveial Orders of Knighthood extuM in
Europe, &c." Illustrated with Plates of the Habits. Lond. Svo,
'715-

"A New HiMorical Account of St. George, and the Order of
the Garter," by Thomas Salmon, Lond. Svo, 1704.

'■ Memoirs of St. George, the English Patron," (from Sctden'l
Titles of Honor,) " and of the Most Noble Order of ihc Garter,"
(abridged from Ashmole ;) by Dr. Thomas Dawson, Svo, 1714.

<■ The Register of ihe Most Noble Order of the Garter," from
the " Black Book," so called from its cover of Black Velvet;
" with Notes, and an Initoductioni" by John Anstis, a Volumes,
Pol. 1714. Plates.

•* Dissertation on the Original of the Equestrian Figure of the
George and of the Garter," by Dr. Pettiogal, Lond. 1JS3, The
System about the George in this Dissertation was refuted by Mr.
P^ege, ill the Fifth Volume of the Arcbxologia.

■• The Institution of the Garter, a Dramatic Poem," by Gilbert
West, F.sq. 410, IT4J. This was re-printed in the ad Voluni
Dodslcy's Collection.

" Some Account of the Antiquities of Old Windsor," by 1
Girdler, primed with Robert of Gloucester, by Hearnc

" Windsor Casile," a Poem by Olway, tftSj, Rc-printei
Dryden's Miscellanies.

■* The Right! of the Forest of Windsor," by Nat. Boolhc, 1
1719.

LIST OP BOOKS, &C»

** A Blacic Scene opened ; being the true State of Mr. John
Kendrick^s Gift to the Town of Reading, &c.'* by John Watts,
1749.

Some Account of Reading Abbey, by Sir Harry Englcfield, it
contained in the Sixth Volume of the Archaeologia.

** The Meyrrour of the Chiirch of St. Austyn of Abingdon,
with a Petytyon of Robert Copeland, Printer, 1521." 410, with
wooden Cuts.

** Collections towards a Parochial History of Berkshire, &c."
1783, and ** Some Account of the Parish of Great Coxwell,**
were published in the Bibliotheca Topographica.

** The History of Mr. John Winchcomb, alias Jack of New-
bury," was reprinted at Newbury about 20 Years since from an old
Pamphlet. In Fuller's Worthies there is also an Account of the
same Person.

In the Philosophical Transactions, No. 261, is some Account
of the Oyster Shells near Reading, by Dr. Brewer; and in the
same Work, Vol. 50. Dr. Collet's Description of the Peat near
Newbury. The latter is reprinted in the Bibliotheca Topographica.

A brief Description of the Towns, Villages, and Scenery of
Berkshire, bordering on the Thames, has been given in Boydell's
and in Ireland's Account of that River.

The Third Volume of the Archaeologia contains an Engraving
of the Pusey Horn, with some Particular^ concerning it.

Several Poems, descriptive of different Parts of the County,
have been published. The most eminent are Pope's ** Windsor
Forest/* Pye's «* Farringdon Hill," Sir John Denham's «< Coop-
er's Hill," and «• St. Leonard's Hill," by Robert Morris.

A small Map of the County was enc!:raved by Hollar in 1670;
and ** a Topographical Survey ot Berk>, in 18 Sheets, on a Scale of
2 Inches to a Mile," was published by John Rotqiie in 1761. A
Map of the County 10 Miles round Newbury, with a Plan of the
Town and Speenhani Land, were made and printed by John Willis,
1768.

Views of the Town of Reading, South, Windsor Castle and
Palace, and Donnington Castle, North-east, have been engraved by
Buck. A View of the latter Castle has also been published by
Hearne and Byrne, and a Plan of it, in its original State, in
Grose's Antiquities. In the ** Brauni Civitates Orbis, i572,**
is a View ot" Windsor Castle by Hoefnagle, probably the oldest
existing. The Cielingsot' the Apartments in the Castle, painted
by Vcrrio, were engraved by P. Vanderbank. Four Elevations
and a Plan of the Caatle were drawn and engraved by B. and T.
Langley, 1743. Eight Views in the Green Park, by T. Sandby,
were engraved by Mason, P. Sandby, W. Austin, Canot, Vivares,
and Rooker. Eight Views of Reading Abbey, by Charles Tom-
kins, were published in 1791 ; and Views of Basildon House and
Felling Place, by Angus, in his Select Views, 1800. In the Copper-
Plate Magazine, Vol. I. are Views of Bisham Abbey and Windsor.
Vol. II. of Basildon Park. Vol. III. of Bear Place. Vol. V. of
Benham House, and Abingdon Market-house ; drawn by Dayes,
Girtin, Corbould, Sec, and engraved by Ellis and Walker.

D d a BUCKING.

LIST or BOOR!

Ac.

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.

" The History and Antiquities of the Town, Hundred,
Deanery oi Buckinglum," by Brown Willis, 4to, 1TJS>

'* The History and Antiquities of the Kiitidred of Desborotigti^
&C." by Thomis Langley, 410, 1797.

Aecoiinis of a few Places in Bucks are contained in Kennel's
Parochial Antiquities, 4X0, Oxon. 1A95.

" An impartial Account of John Mason of Water Stratford,
and hii Senliment!," by H. Maurice, I^ond. 4(0, 1695. The Year
bcfoie this, " Some remarlcable Passages in his Life and Death,
gee." were published by " A Reverend Divine, 10 prevent false
Reports." 4I0.

Some Particulars of Buckingham, Stowe, Aylesbury, &e. are
contained in Sliaw's Tour, 1 781) : of ihc same Places, with Newport
Pagnelli in Bray's Tour, 1183 ; and of Gotlmrst, Stony and Fenny
Stratford, Bleclieley, and Newport Pagnell, in Pennant's Tour
from Chester and Norlhampton to London, 17S1.

Various Descriptions of Stowe have been published both in
Verse and Prose. The best is that by Seelcy of Buckingham, with
Views of the principal Buildings by Medland, Svo, 1 loe.

A Map of Bucks was published by E. Bower, in 1756 ; aod
■nother in 1770, by T. Jeffertys, " In four Sheets, on a Scale
of one Inch la a Mile." This is reduced and much improved
In Smith's English Atljs, iSoo.

A View of Buckingham from Maids Morton Hills was engraved
by G. Bickham; and a " North Prospect of St. Peier and Paul's
Church, as it stood before the fall of the Spire," by K. Perry.
Among Loggan'sCainbridge Views, is one of Eton College : another
was engraved by J, Price, but published by W, Collier. '* A
" General Plan of the Woods, Park, and Gardens of Slow*,"
with Eight large perspective Views of the Gardens, were engraved
from Drawings by ChateUin, by Rigaudand Baron, 17J9. Four
Views of LordDe Spencer's Houieand Gardens at West Wycombe,
and two of Mr. Waller'sat Hall Bariv, were engraved by WooUeti
Waller's Monument at Beaconsfield was engraved by Virtue, and is
in the 410 Edition of the Poet's Works. A South.east View of
Harley-Ford was painted by Zviccarelli, and engraved by T. Major.
In the Vitnivius Briiannica. Vol. II. are the North and Wejt
Fronts of CI iefdcn House. A View of Stewklcy Church, by Godfrey,
. from a Drawing by Bishop Lyiiteton, is in Grose's Antiquities,
An East Viewof Nutley Abbey, and a View of Bumliam Priory, were
cneravcd by Buck, 1730. Among Angiii'i Select Views is oneof
Chalfont HofikF : and in the Copper Plate Magaxine are Engraving*
hy Heath, FitlUr, Middiman, Ellis, and Walker, of Cllefden
House; Gregoriei, (now Butler's Court ;) West Wycombe Park,
Hartwell House, Bulstrodt?, Langley Park, and Marlow Biidge,
from Drawingi by Coibuuld, Mcix, and Girtin.

INDEX.

•g^^^

INDEX.

tfT" The Market Towns are

the nilages
A

xVbikcdon, Berks, its uncertain ori-
gin, received its name from an al)bcy
founded by Cissa, 158. Abingdon
Abbey, its history, 159; Henry I.
educated here, mitred, 1(1. Hel-
nesCow Abbey, 161. Abingdon
Bridge, particulars concerning it ;
Geoffrey Barbour a chief contribu-
tor, 162. Abingdon cross, de-
stroyed in the Civil Wars, descrip-
tion of, 163. Abingdon, trade of,
market-house, corporation, 164;
churches, free-school, garrisoned
during the Civil Wars; Mason, Sir

John, a native, 165.
worthf Berks, of remote origin;
account of the De la Beche family,
their mansion fortified, 170. Aid-
worth church, remarkable for its
monuments, 170.

Alfred the Great, bom at Wantage,
136; his history, 138 to 149.

Am £R SHAM, Bucks, its history, 359;
description of the town, church, mo-
numents, and manufactures, 360.

Ampthill, Bedfordshire, description
of, church, monument of Governor
Nichols, 63; charitable institutions,
64.-

Ampthill Park, the seat of the Earl of
Upper Ossory,thc old castle the resi-
dence of Queen Catherine afu:r her
divorce, ociagon;il cross built on the
site, 64; anciently the domain of Sir
John Cornwall, Lord Frmhope, made
a royal demesne, description of the
present mansion, 65.

Ashbr'uige^ Bucks, supposed an ancient
royal palace, a college Un Bonhoni-
mes, a parliament held here, 342; a
idt of the Duke of Bridgcwalcr,

343-

Aspicy, the petrifying quality of its
spring enquired into, 41.

Atterbuiy, Dr. Francis, Bishop of Ro-
chester, anecdotes of, 336.

Aylxsbury, Bucks, originally Bri-
tish, the burial-place of St Osilh,
343; a manor royal, remarkable
return to parliament, 344; descrip-
tion of the town, its church prebend al,
Grey Ffiars, government, 345; the
parish the largest and most fruitful
in the county; artificial method of
mring ducks, 346.

distinguii^hcd by small Capitals ;

by Italicks.

Bacon, Sir Francis, Lord Verulam, his
character, 292 and 317.

Badbury Hill, a camp, a famous battle
supposed to be fought here, 135.

Banner of France, 216.

Baibour Geoffrey, anecdotes of, 163.

Basildon^ Berks, famous for its farms
and fertility, the seat of Sir Francis
Sykes, 1 7 1

Battles of Newbury, 1 13 et sup.

Beaconsfield, Bucks, described, church,
Mr/ Burke's monument, charitable
donations, 389. Waller's monu*
menl, 390

Bcauchamp, family of, ancient Barons
of Bedford, 12.

Beaumont Lodge, Berks, the seat of
Henry Griffiths, Esq. 27a.

BEDFORDSHIRE, general descrip-
tion of, history, topography, and lo-
cal beauties, 1 to 82; its ancient
inhabitants, boundaries, and face
of the country, 1,2; manufactures,
produce, rivers, 3^ government, one
of the seven counties without a city,
4; natural history, 80, 81.

Beopoku, the county town. King Of-
fa's burial-pljce, state under the Sax-
ons and Danes, 4; its castle, 5; ac-
count of the siet'c, 6; the liberties of
the town sci/.ed by Edward I. its
government, situation, bridge, &c.
described, 7; Ibj gaol, and ecclesi-
astical establishment, St. Paul's
Church the principal orna'ment of
the town, formerly collegiate, 8; St.
John's Hospitjjl, charitable founda-
tions. 9 ; singular charity of the Har-
pur Cbtate in Loudon, lO; its ap-
pnipriation, school, reflections on
public charities, 1 1.

Bedford, Barony of, its histor)', 12; its

. Barons hereditary almoners at the
coronation, made a dufkedom, his-<
tory of its ancient dukes, Jasper dc
H.jtfield, George Xevil, and John
Plantagenct, 13.

Benhnm House, Berks, the seat of Lord
CTaven, 123.

BERKSHIRE, general description of,
histor)', topo;^raphy, and local beau-
lies, 83 to 275; its ancient inhabi-
tants, 83 ; shape, boundaries, and
soil. 84; manufactures, rivers, go*
D d 3 ' vemroent

I N D.E %i

ntanmAf 85; miacellaniet concern-

BiocLESWADi, Bedfordshire, 74 ; a
. Urge and iDcreatiag town, its church,
formerly collegiate, charitable foun-
dations, the' King lord of the manor,
75. Stratton Klaoor, coins found
oere, 76,

Ita^/tf, Bucks, the residence of Mr.
Pope in his youth, 179 ; here he be-
gan his ** Wmdior Forest/* j8o.

JiMMi, Berks, abbey, history of, 19'ti
ehurch, Sir George Young's scat.
White Place, 193.

Mtt^udtm^ Bucks, 313 1 history of its

•*>^. a«4-

Blagrave, J. Esa. description of hit

aeat near Rcaduiff, 107.
Mtekeitjf, Bucks; church, curious mo-

noments; manor, account of, 338.
B t e k km K ftm , Berks, singular tenure in,

•74-
Borstal Horn, accountof the, 351.

Mn^t Berks, story of one of iu vicars,
193; suppoaed anciently to belong
,to the Bibroci, part of the honor of
'Windsor, Goddard's hospital, Fil-
berts, 196.

Bny-Wick Lodge, Berks, the seat of
Thomas Slack, Esq. iu description,
196.

Brill, Bucks, formerly the residence
of Ed ward the Confessor, 351.

Brown, Launcelot, anecdotes of, 287.

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, general de-
scription of, history, topography,
local beauties, B76 to 400 ; its an-
cient inhabitants and boundaries,
876; face of the country. Vale of
Aylesbury, its soil, various applica-
tions, and extraordinary fertility,
B78; agricultuie, rivers, 279 ; go-
vernment, &,c. s8o. Miscellanies,
400.

Buckingham, a town of considerable
antiquity, s8o; history of, its im-
portance increased under Edward
III. decline of its trade under Hen-
ry VIII. dreadful fire, a8i; rc&to*
red to its trade in a small degree by
Lord Cobham; church its principal
ornament, 282; town-hall, lace ma-
nutscturc, 283; corporation, free-
school, extent of the parish, 284.

Bulslrode, the seat of the Duke of PorU
land, history, park, 392 ; views,
pictures, 393; chapel, 39^.

Bunyan, John, anecdotes ot, 15; his
Pilgrim's Progress written in goad, 16.

Burke, Edmund, Esq. his «pitaph,

380; anecdotes of, 391.
BufJmm^ Bucks, abbey, 397.
BuaTS, vaifk Cktrscurs, Alfred the

Great, ft9t. Bacon, Lord Verulam,

S9t. Barnard, Sir John, 1913.

Bonaparte, 57. Djsby, Lady Ve-

nctia, 331. Drake, Sir Fimcia, fl^s.

Edward the Bbck Prince* t9ft.

Elisabeth, Queen, t9ft. Grcalianiv

Sir Tbomu, 191. Hampden, 193.

Tones, Ignatius, ft9i. Locke, S9a.

Milton, ft9t. Newton, iQt. Pope,

•01. Raleigh, Sir Watter, •93.

Shakespeare, 191. WiUiim the

Third, 193.
Butler's Court» Bucks, the seek of Mrs.

Burke, 391.
Builer, Joseph, Bishop of Durlamy

anecdotes concerning nim, 149*

Cesar's Camp, Berks, • Roman fbi^
tification near Oakingfaara, 179.

Cannon Hill, Berks, near Bray, the acat
of Tames Law, Esq. 197.

CadelT, Dr. Edmund, some account
of him, 71. '

Cai*et s field ^ a village belonging to Buck-
inghamshire, though situated in Ox*
fordshire, 35O.

Caversham, Berks, the seat of— Mar*
sac, £&q. 1O7

Chace, Thomas, of Amcrsham, hia
cruel murder, 386

Chilfont St. Gihs^ Bucks, rendered me-
morable by the residence of Milton,
anecdote of him, 359.

Charities, cmmcnt, 9, 95, i 13,259, 326.

Charles the First buried at Windsor,

S50-

Charles the Second, hunM>rous anec-
dote of, 87.

Chaucer, the Poet, resided at Don-
nington castle, lao.

Chum, mill, to make butter, 178.

Cheneys f Bucks, ancient manor-boose^

359
Chequers, Bucket, seat of Sir J RuUe],354

Chcshasa, Bucks, its situation, ma-
nufactures, 358.

Chilton, Bucks, the residence of Judge
Crook, 352.

Cholscy Farm, Berks, near Walling*
ford, formerly the largest and most
compact in England, 157.

Clayton Middle^ Bucks, the residence
of the Verney family, 349.

CUylon SUepU^ Bucks, 330.

CHcfacn^

INDEX.

Cltcfden, lU elegant mansion erected by
Villara, Duke of Buckingham; the
seat of Frederick, Prince of Wales;
burnt, 387 ; views from ; wretched
end of its founder, 388.

Clinton, Edward, Earl of Lincoln,
anecdotes of, 45; his monument,

Cobham, Lord, 295 and 31O.

Cockle Shells, stratum of, at Hose
Hill, Bucks, 177.

Collingbourno, William, put to death
for a quibbling distich, 383.

Cokshtll^ Berks, church, painted glass,
preseiK state of, 131 ; the teat of Lord
Folkstone; an unadulterated specimen
of Inigo Jones's style of building,
132.

CoLNBROOK, Bucks, supposcd a Ro-
man station, description of the town,
400.

Congreve, his monument, 299.

Cow per, the Poet, anecdotes of, 333.

Crook, Sir George, anecdotes of, 352.

Cox, Richard, Bishop of Ely, anec-
dotes of, the present Liturgy partly
composed by him, 339.

Cross, remarkable appearance of one in
the sky; Cross White Leaf, Bucks,
described, 26.

CumnoTy Berks, church, custom of the
villagers, 168; the Connteu of Lei-
cester murdered here by order of her
husband, 169.

Danesficld, the seat of R. Scott, Esq.
account ot the ancient encampment,
376.

Desborough Castle, a strong entrench-
ment, 363.

Devil's Highway, 179.

De Brent, Fulco, account of him, a
boisterous rebel, 5.

De La Bcchc family, particulars con-
cerning the, 170.

Digby, Sir Everard, anecdotes of, 328
and 329.

Digby, Sir Kcnelm, life of, 329.

^»gby, Lady Vcnctia, anecdotes of, 211
and 331.

Doleman, an eminent clothier, anecdote
relating to, 123.

Donnington Castle, its hi%tory, the re-
sidence of Chaucer, 120; twice be-
sieged during the Civil Wars, 121;
its ancient and present state, 122.

Donnington Grove, Berks, the scat of
William Brumiadl, Esq. deKribed,

D'Oyley family, their momimcnt, 374.

Druid's Temple, see Park Place.

Ducks, artificial mode of breeding*
346.

Dudley, Earl of Leicester, see Cumnor.

Dunstable, Bedfordshire, the Magi-
ovinum of the Romans, x6; its situ-
ation, Roman roads cross here,
streets and houses, dry soil, water
scarce, 17; supported by resort of
travellers, manufactures, 18; Priory
church, intended at the Dissolution
for a cathedral, description of, 19;
monuments, fii ; privileges granted
by Henry I. disagreement between
the townsmen and the prior, 94 ; the
priory a residence for the commis-
sioners assembled to divorce Queen
Catherine from Henry VIII. friars
Preachers,charitableestablishment,B5;
phenomenon in the sky, b6 ; religious
persecutions, 27; larks, many caught
here, agriculture, 28; Maiden Bower
an ancient fortification, 29.

Dyntorif skeletons found there, 353.

East Hr.vdred, Berks, formerly a
considerable market town, its manors
anciently all church property, 149;
Paternoster tenure, 150.

Edward the Third, life of, «6i.

Edward the Fourth, his tomb and ske»
leton, 248.

Elstoiv^ Bedfordshire, formerly a Bene-
dictine nunnery; description of the
church; Bunyan, John, a native of
this place. 15.

Evtorne, Berks, lingular custom there,

275-

Encampment, Danish, 376.

F.nglcjidd, Berks, the scat of Richard
Bcnyon, Esq. 175.

Epitaphs, quaint orcuiious, on William
Mulso, 21 ; Sir Henry Lee, 347 ; Sir
Anthony Lee, 349 ; Paul Whitehead,
369; SirCopeD'OyleyandhisLady,
374: Burke, 389; Waller, 390 ;
Gray, 395.

Eton Collf.ge, Bucks, its pleasant
situation, hiitory of the foundation,
described, courts, 398; Provost's
apartments, Jane Shore's picture,
cliapel ; origin of the singular cus-
tom called the Montem, 399; viJ.
lage of Eton dcscrilxrd, 400.

£) thorps Bucks, the family roansioo of
the Earls of Chesterfield, 353,

Da4

Fanhope^

INDEX.

taho^ 8if J9km Comwill, Lor4,
tome account of, 65.

fiRBH, tmmx of, the ^nation 00 the
praprifty diacMwd, 17ft m {iaq.

Vabrxnooom, Berks, i^t; ittcteich
• spacioitt edi6oe, rtnwrluble lombt,
Sir Edward Umoa, 133; Farringdon
HiU, y'um fnm\ Farriagdon Home,
. lkeMatofii.1-Pyei Efq. Ckaaacicnt
mwifin garraooad for ClHiki I.

f^Sm Mtfti, Sackt, uman by wUch
tin aaawr ia hild, 39I.

Vtwlty Coast, Bucka, the aaat of S.
FMaman, Sm. formerly the aeit of
tke WhitdedL fiunUyt tajariet it
auuinad in tba civil wan, 971 ; the
patjMl hoaaa baik by Sir Cinritto.
Fbar Warn, vicwa from, ptctnict,

• ayt:

^vfy Hmkuyt Barka, account of itaan-
CMBt cboKb, t66.

FnipU^ Bncka; dmich towar Saxon,
extent of the panth, ^jo.

FHttm^ Bedforofhiie, church, monu-
meott, 70 ; PuUox Hill, a gold mine
tuppoaed to have been found here,

71.
Ferrils, what, 178.

Font, curious one at Luton, 3a

FaoGMORi, BcrkSf residence of Her

Majesty, a66; particular description

of, 867.

Catly Hi)T, Bedfordshire, a Roman

camp, 77.
Carter, history of the order of, 254.
Godwin, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of Bath

and Well5, snecdotes of, 178.
Gothurst, Bucks, the seat of George

Wright, Esq. history of the manor;

portraits, with anecdotes, 387; church,

33*.
Gray, the Poet, his monument, 395.

Greenland House, Bucks, famous for
sustaining a siege of six months, in
the Royal cause, during the civil
wars, 375 . , ,

Grenvillc, Capuin, his noble speech,

Gwynn, Eleanor, anecdotes of, 314
and 34a.

Bin Bam, Waller's lert ; anecdotes of

him, 390.
BdwMedon, Bucks, history of the manor,

37a. Hambledoa House, a seat of

tia Gla^laa faulf, dMmK
windowa, 371; moMmtntalihwri]^
tioM of tka jyOiriay fi»Uy, »4"
Harapdan Honia, dawription o^ pic*
turet, church, 355. Hampden, Jolm,
Esq. his chamder, a93{ mooBinentf

jfaaji^^Bucks, chuicli, ja6; charita-
ble donatkma, 387.

ffMrky-fwrd^ Bwkt, the laat of WUIiaa
Clayton, Esq. Temple of FiimJrfrip,

Harpur, Sir WUliam, bia aii«nlar cki-

rtty, to.
Hatfidd, Jawer Da, PnkaoTBadldrd.

accoostoi^ 14,
Heame, Thomas, thaaattqaary, aec-

dotesof, 181.
HadaorUidge,thiiiaatof Ltfd Bo«o^

danrihad, 3I9.
Henry the Sixth, buried at Wiadwr,

a49; JLifeof, t6a.
Hanry, fifth Bart of Kam, awodaia dl

7t.
Hcvy VIII. and thi Abbat of Itoad»

incsiofyctf, 9a.
Heme's Oak, a65
Herschell, Dr. account of hisleIesGop«^

397.

Highara Gobion, Bedfordshire, the re-
sidence and retreat of the learned Dr«
Casiell, 71.

Horn, Borstal, particulars conctroing,
351. Horn, Hun;;erford, description
oi, 125. Horn, Pusey, 136.

Hose Hill, Berks, a vein of free-stone
. here, stratum of cockle shells, 176.

Houghton Conquest, Bedfordshire, Z*-
chary Grey, the erlitor of Hudibras,
formerly rector, 66

Houghton Park, Bedfordshire, ac-
count of, 65; Sir Philip Sydney sup-
posed to have written part of nia
•» Arcadia" here, 66.

Hung aa roRD,Berks, its ancient nimei
situation, 184; principal buildings;
Hom,privileffesof, 1B5; canal; park,
the seat of Charles Dalbiac, Esq.
136.

Hur/ey, Berks, ancient history, monaa*

"tcry, now the seat of Mr. Wilcox,

description of the apaitments, 191 ;

the Revolution in 1688 formed here,

lottery aoecdote, 198.

Huru, Berks, 180.

I.& J.

iLSLarEAST, Berks, cekbratiidforita
sheep market, 169.

Jack, of Newbury, hiUtny of, ill.

K
K«p, mening of the word. 151.
KendiLck, Mr. John, hij chatitit* to

Reading, how abused, 931 hube-

quau to Newbury, 1 13.
Knintl, deiciipuon of ihc river, 87.
Kingtbury, a royal nunsion at Dun.

Kneller'sii Godfiey, anecdole of, tig.
Kymble, Greitand L>ale, Bucki, uip-

BobeliD, 3j3.

^c from Cu

I imall maiktl

LacC'Tnaking, patticulin retaiing to
183.

Limbom, a river in Berkihm, lU /an
liid peculiariiy txplodei* ""

LAuaouaME, Berki, a>
lown of great aniiquiiyi Whi
116; made by King AKred to per-
pttuaie his victory over the Danrs,
htdeicripikin, 1171 cnHomof icour.
ingihehone, 118, Wiyland-Smiil,,
a Briiiih monunieDt, 130. Dngon
Hilt, the lamulu of a Kritiih Cbief,
I3t.

Laud, Archbiihop, anecdote* of, loa.

Lalimen, Buck), the uat of Laid C
Cavendidi, 358.

Lai-iinkn, Bucks, monaiterv ai. 334.

Lead, a inan'i bonei full oi, foo.

LiicmouBsAuBiiiitT.or^nMrJ.
Btdfoidihire, a coniidetable market
town : ruki among the Quakers heir
againitidlenest; ctou, its hci^hland
docriplion, 36; church, Roman
camp, 37-

Leonud'i Hill, St. Berks, formerly f
Roman sutioti. General Harcouit*?L
villa, »73.

Liicombe Houie, Buckt, iht itat oJ
Sir Jonaihan Loveil, deteription ol
th<.' macsioD, 340;"'*' pifturci, 341,

Little EaK, used by Bishop Smyih a.-
■ priaon, 386.

Lodden, ) r..er in Berkshire. 88.

Lonpeviiy, remarkabk insuoce of, 70.

L-^ld, Bucks, hiuory of iu abbey,

LutoH, Bedfordihire, iti siiuation;
church, dacripttoaof,singulit Ton),
go; muBamenti, John 1( Wenlock,
gi; LuloD pveii by OHi to ibc abbey

ofSt.Alban;Wcnlock.Loid. builder
of Luton Hoo, 3»: John Pomfre^
the Poet, born here, 33.
Luton Hoo, Bed fmd shire, the seat oT
the Marquis of Bute, 33 ; description
oF the house and grouodi, curiou*
chapel, 34.

>95-

aiden Sower, Bedfordshire, suppoaed

an ancient British teulement, *g.
MaiJi Mnit/at, Bulks, church, dacrlp-

'i-n of, sg4; pjriihioners reiiit
>mwe11'i acts relating to marriage
1 baptism, 885.
MaWm, Bedfordshire, monument ia

the church to the memory of Lady

Elgin, 66.

^ritl-Srr/it, Bedf.jrdshire, mnillf

inhabited by inn-kecpcn; inequality

of the poor's rale ; nunnery, account

of, 35-

IT, Buc

chariuble comtibuiions, 380; go-
vernmeni, Ac. 381,
Mar/eii; Unit, Bncks, in hiilory, 3811
cnniml. manor-house, extent aid

M.iry, Qurm of .Scots, her charidef ,

Mason, Sir John, anecdolei of. 165.
Mason. Mr John, anecdotes o( hii

religious insanity, 3»»,
Mausoleum, one ereclid by Lord U

Dcspenser. very mfgnifiienl, 368.
Mtdneiham, Bucks, its hiiila'ry, abbef,

375
Meiioiinto En.^ving invented by

MMIt'f; or M<'tn K/mi<. Bucks, the
birth- pi arc of Bishop Atierbiicy, and
ratory of Ur. Wolton, 336.

Milton. a...cd,.,e of. 359.

MiiHTidtn Crtul, Bucks, formerly •
Ben«lictinemon«lery,357i manor.

Mortimer Heath, Bcrki, a bleak, dre^

rv Iract of land, 177.
Miirlie, Williain, anecdote of hii fbl-

Krril, George, Duke of Bedford, lo

tOUDlof, .4-

NiwauxY, Bcrkt, iu tltuition^ >id»
fmm the tacicBl S fins ; ili hiilary,
deicripiloii, ind chutch, iiO; fot-
mcrly cclcbnicd for iU clolh miixu-
ficturci John Winichomb, or
Jaik nj A'tn^nn, hit hiilory, ill ,
hit memoiy itilf retpKicdi miilict,
incorpor»led by Queen Eliti.
boh, govemmenl, ii». Ktndtitk,
Mr. hii thinly; jlmthoutd; re-
IiLian of ihe biltla of, 1 13 el leq.
villcyiffacdigood pin<ire,>nd jtrii,
117; um found in the lilier, iig.

NEwroiT Pacnkll, Bucki, iu
origin, 334 ; hiitory of the manor,
<iftle, hoipiiil, ehuith, 4c. 335.

Nunk-Uill, Bedforrlth'ire, ihe iliurch
here fomwrly collepiic, 71 ; dt.
•criplion of the paiaced window,

OaiiHCiiAU, Bcrki. iuiltinlion,
mirkct-hoiue, church, 177; corpo-
nliDn, chiritiet, Blihop Godwin
analive. 17S; Lucklcy Grcm, Dr>-
f er'i almt-houKi tbcn, buili by H.
Lncai, Etq, Cxiu'i cimp: Dcvil'i
Highwiy, 179-

Ock, ■ rivir in Bcrkihirt, 88.

Olity, Buck(, the residence of Cowpcr
ihe Poet, 333; inecdotci of hira,

Oiuc, rivet, id ducriplinn, 3j le-
iiHikable for iliilow motion, tiogu-
lar circumitance concsming il, Si.

Oy><tr-iht1lt,t<r3luinof, norRnding,
conJecIUTu rtipMiing ihe cauici
which placed ihem iu thai lituation,

Pictinglon, Dorothy, her 1

P^(r^ lord,

anneedole of. 387-

PflB^/mri., B

tki, the m

bllorging

the abbnl

of Reading,

(h( quelLlon concern ini

the extent of

f.r>r!i di«c

tied, 17*.

pMk Place,

Berki, t!«

midtnce oF

the Karl of

Malmibury, description

ttfthedom

inandhou

e. i»3;pain.

lingj, w,th

anK:dotei,

.84ro 187;

jNlh of

Greenfaill,

the p.inte,,

: littcriptioii contioiud, itf;
lid'i temple, iSg,
near Newbury, cur iom pamcu.
concerning the, 1 17.
Felling Place, Berki, the leat of Jatnea

Bonnell, Esq. «7».
Petty, Henrv, Earl of Shelbume, hii
numen't, 365.
i/Kia dtiirO-cd, Abel in ihe

»47 Angela ap-
pearing to the Shcpherdi, on Gl>u,
Weit and Foreal, s^;. Angel, in
the Cloudt, Murillo, jO. Battle of
Neville'iCniB, Wal,st8. BattleoE
Poilien.Weil. 13^, Caitooni, Ancc-
doteioFihe.RapW1.«a7. Children,
Threeof ChailtillMFirst, Vaodyck,
39G. Children, Four, of tin Penn
Family. Reynolds. 3(16. Edward Ihe
Thud crowning Lord Loui> de Ri.
bemont. Wot, 134. Embatkalion
of Hfure the Eighth at Dover. rs»Os
119, Garden of Eden, Bieugliel.
»aa, GearKetheThird(Hi>Ma)«ty}
levicwinglbe Prince of Walea'a D«a-
goom, ftc.Beechcy, 110. Iniiiiution
of the Order of the Garter, Wot,
«33. Iniide of a Cottage, Tenien,
117. Interview of Henry thcBighth
with Fniiciilbe Firit, 119. Inter-
view between Ed ward the Third and
EdwardlheBlack Prince, Wot, laj.
LandKjpe with Fipjtea, Wouvcr.
mam, jS. Nymphi nnd Saiyti,
Rubeni and Soyden. SB3. Pauage
of the River Sontme, Weat, 314,
Promelheut and the Vnltu(«, Yoini,;
Paltna. EI41. Rachel'i Tent, Douw,
303. St. George killing the Dngon,
Weit, B38. St. Paul convening the
Druidi, Mortimer, 364. Suirendir
r.f Calai., Weal, sag, The Fall of
Hyppolitui, Riibetu, 57. The Laa
Supper, Wett,t4j. The Rauirtclion,
OR Glau, Wen, Jatvii, and Form,
846, The NaUvily. Wetland ForW,
■4;. The CruciRxion. Weat and
Forest, 148. View of Pekin. Jo]1>,
351. View in Holland, Cuyp, y,-
Village Scene. Hobbin.a.,Bj.

Plantagenet, John, Duke of Bedford,
and Regent of Fiance, tome account
of, 14.

Pod/agrm, or PiaUi«glm. BcdforaiUie.
lit tituaiion, church, iti vicai bung
for denying H<nrvVIII*a(uprtn)Kv,
78-, Hmwick Hall, face of ih« louiw
try, 19-

Font Km«\m dC Winiinr, 95B.

PoiTKAiTi. anit Antalffl. Sir. &,.
Addiun, JiMph. 1119 Anbclls.
theipJoiCoiiniruof Kent, fig. Anne
of Ommaik, Quren of >m« (Ik
Fim,48. Arcli»,Scni|qtuf Vrnke.
■ 17. Bkdti. Sir Fimcii, 317. BcJ-
hi.t. Udv, tt«i Benttnck Wiiriim
FiiW K»rl al P'.rtl.ii(l, 303. Boleyn,
Quno Aiiio. 309 fluTlcigh, Lord
- TrMMiin,3i8. Camden, 319. Ctrr,
Lidy Aunc Wilr of Sif Williim
Rutxl, 46, OtheriDc i>f Bnganzi,
Writ ut Ch*t\rt ihc Second, 313
CkiI, Williim, Lord Buileigh, 49.
CfailMiani, Coiinieti of Dcvamhi re,
■a. Clevelind, Duchcu of. aij,
Clintnn, Edward. Kiil of Lincoln,
4S. Cobhun, Lnid ViKOunl. 310.
Colbert, John Baplitt. 56. Cook,
L»dy, 47. Counney, Edw»rd. Eitl
of Devoiuhire, 45. Craggi, ]imtt.
311, Cromwell, Oliver, jH. Din-
vcti, Hcnrj, Eati of Oinby, 49.
I>cntann,L>dy,Ii3. Digby. Georgr,
E»il of Btillol, 47. Digby, S.r
Kvcind, 319. l)i>;by,.<iir Kenelm.
8»9. Digl^, L»dvVcn«ij, iii«,d
331. Oiogeno, 56. Dobion, 30a,
Eugene. Prince, 316. Gny, L.dy
hiK,69an<t3i5. Grcy.LidySuun,
C9.Crcn¥ille.SiiBev>l,3iO. Gwynn,
£lQnor,3i4»id34i. H>l>, Frank,
J4. Hamiiian, Mia, tflrrwirds
Lidy Gnmniont, 114 HardwiclLc,
LordChtncdlor.eu. Mirrii, J»ne.,
Kuj 1114. HenrielU Mitia, Qureu
of Charluthe Finl,3t7. Jimei the
Fim.67, J.ne Shore, 399 J.kyll,
Sir JOieph, 331, Krtcl, Comcliut. a

Lud«., Martin. 8... M.ry, C
af Soo, D7 anil 316 Mitldfeion,
Lady Jane, 114. Mank, Genrnl.
■fierwaidi Dnkcof Albemarle, 48.
ManUgiic, Sir Edward, ^t. Mu.
rillo, i4, Mytciii, Daniel, jj. Parr,
QitefnCaiherincSog. PanltbeFini,
late Empcrurof Kiuiia. 1B6. Pem-
broke. Willi^tr^Ea^lof,3l6, Phillip
and Mary, 46. Pi[l, Williwi. Karl
of Clntham,3ii. Pope, 31 j Quin,
Mr.aig.Rembrjnill.si Richoiund,
«of,..3, R.,l„,., 5;(. Km.

I, Adm

icl, Fra'

S'tnnd Earl ofBcdford, 341. Rin-
ad, Fnntii, Fourth Etrl of Bedfon),
4T- Xnuel, Lady Rachel, Wl(« to
Lord Wilham HuucI, JO. Ruwel,

Lord William, 44. Ruuet, Sit
William, afterwards Duke. 46 and
47. Sindv.,LadyHM«r,3to. Sey-
mour, Edward. Duke of SomctMI,
307 Seymour, Thomai, Lord High
Admiral, 308. Shafubury, Lord
Chancellor, 185. Sheldon, Archhi.
thup of Canterbury, 309 Snillinch,.
John. J5. Somen. Lurd. 61. Sleai,
Jar, 54, Swift, Dean, 31*. Sydney,
Sir Phrlllp. 47- Ttmpit, Johii,3iO.
Temple, Sir WillLam. 69, Teniera,
the Younfi-r, 53. Tmtomio, 53.
T-tian. s». TiiutOale*, 341. Wal-
ling him, Secieiarv, 70. Wharton,
PhrUp, Dukeof, 69. Wright, Sir
Nathan, Lonf Keeper. 331. Wri-
otlieiley, Thomai, Earlof Souihainp-
ton, 49 ».d 3>6. WouvtmwB,
John, j6.

oamiTi HrsrtiitJ. Catherine [he
Second, UiAEmpreaiof Ruuia, i8j.
Chatloiie ;H«M.ie.ty)Q.ueen.«ia.
Cromwell. Olive" - - '

I jiS.

e, 319. Eliubeih^
, Si""" 44 ana S*"' Eh*». »■>!»!r^
b^il of. 48. Filtgerald, Lady Eli-
ubrih, the FairCeraldine, IS John,
the Ian Duke of Clnra, Jao. Limii
the Fifteenth, JO, Maiy, Qricen, 44.
Nugent, Earl, 307. Penn, William,
396 Pc»r, C»r of HuKovy, ■41.
Rich, Lady, 68. Rirhirdi, GeDEra],
and bit Brother, 311. Ricbmond,
Ducheit of. III. Seymour, Ladf
Jane, 44. Siddon., Mr«. 307.

Pdttoh, Bedfordtbin, )6.

PulloiL Hill, Hedfordihito, 76,

Purle) Hall, Be.k.,.ceoaniof, .7a.

Rally. Berki, a.«tiption of iu hotn,
.36,

Qiiarcndon, Bucli, 1 reiidenee of the
Lhi, t.irli M Lilchiield ; chapel, aad
dilipiilaiioni lliece. 346J tomlH of
Sir Henry Lee, 347.
Quintin Mauyi, aiiccdtle of, 117.

RadcoiBridj^liaiilefouEhnheTe, 136,
the County lown, Baki,
,of lU n»me. origin. 89;
Linnoy, abbey. 90; Abbot

Hiteii'.

I N D EX.'

pHBt Of ■MBy tiUMrilHIt pcrtOM,
liM cuit^Biii fefeid mK| ill uil abliot
^1 MS Icpci^s hofphfl, wkc

liMiy^atlp 94; ■httatioQ of the town,
ncvponiioBy sMoofy tv^Mi Mul hm-
wnctiira, 95 ; leocy of Mr. Kob-
dflcfcy Jfow iMcat deHnictive of
iketiMoof thetowtt,)6; other do-
artio^ 9?; Sir T. White: fne
•cboolt dnaichfle, St Ifiry'i tower,
•ii^B, 9I; awkitts, lolhMll, pic-
•um^ 101 » AMcdotM of Archhi-
•hop Lwd, lOt; ftntam of oyster
ehtui in iti vkteiCf , itu; gsitle-
to6 ;• lOM to Ittfwhory,

dbKriplieoofy 100.
JMmh^ IfMlr, Bodu ; White letf
CroMi hi dctariptloo, 867*.

EltV(>ROVOB» PftlWCS'ty B<>^1^ *o

u3M Irdm XdwMd the Black

Prwra» M<.
Kowe, Nicbolai, necdotet of, St.
ImmI, aohk lemily of, its hiatoiy» 96;

tei^ or SeAi^, Bedfordshire, the

S«faMr of the RonUfi»; Galley Hill,

• Komao fbrtnM, 77 ; its vicinity

rtmarkahle for vegeublcs, 78.
Scheikeo, anecdote of» 305.
Sudmtrtky^ Berlu, remaiiu of its build-

kiga, rfS.
Seynuaur's Court, Bucks, said to ha\'e

Meo tlie birth-place of Queen Jane

Seymour, 377.
Shnddoea, Bucks, the seat of Mrs.

Prake, its description, 361; pictures,

SSa.
Shaw House, Berks, particulars coo-

ceming, 123.
SkoUtshSkey Berks, its college ; Dod-

weN, Mr. Henry, buried here;

story concerning the completion of

the church, 189.
Siaodun (now Wittenham) Hill, an

■ocieot encampment near Waliing-

f^rd, 157.
SAw^A, Bucks, fismous for the residence

of Dr. Herschell, 397.
South Hiiii Bedfordshire, monument

in the church to the memory of Ad-
mi lal Byng, 7 a.
Spettiy Bteka, the Roman ^a^r, echo,

119^
SPATOfta airiifil ciMrmttrs md itscrip^
tims^ Anne, Queen, 199. George,

Pfiaca of jjCBOriKVy

Lord, 195. Epaminoodas, 091.

Homer, a9i. Lycurgna, 090^ *

CfatM, a9s*
St George, hirtorr of; S|a
StmMty^ Bocka, iia aocietK

Sim GdUmgim^ Bucka, gty^i

Stoke Park, Bocka, tiia seal of J.
Esq. tke kooae described, 895t pic-
tofBB, viewBffomtfatjpark,Mfeoeof
Sir Edward Coke, 990.

Sld€ Fqgis^ Backs, hialoiy of the na-
»^r, 894; the resideace of Gnnr,
ita churd^yaid the sabjaet of his n-
iBoos occys flia nMmoBUsnt, 99S*

Stowe, ladu^ the acai of the B toyi i a
oflockiubani, ila Uatory, Toapk

. fimtly, tS^ its garda■^ «86; iai.
proved by Brown, aSyi CorindiiaB
arch, looic pavilions^ ^Bi; Ir '
tafCftenspleot Vettu,QOeco^ j
Boycott pavilioot, fteaiple of
Choi, rotnada, Biyaiao fidda, 0o-
ri& aith^ -leaipk of .PriodaUp,
a89; temple of Ancient Viftue, io-
acriptions, 890; of Britilh woitlncs,
inscriptions, aga; Captain Gren-
viile's monument, 293; grotto, 094;
temple of Concord andVictory,Lord
Cobham's pillar, 295; Queen's buil-
ding, B96; Gothic temple. Palla-
dian bridge, 298; temple of Friend-
ship, Pebble Gro\'e, Congrcve's mo-
nument, 899; house dcscriixd, pic-
tures. Sec. 300 to 3a I.

Stmatpord Fknny, Bucks, its
situation, 337 ; manor, its history,
a hamlet to filecheley, 33S.

Stratford Stony, Bucks, conjec-
tures concerning the Roman station,
3a4; its situation and description,
bridge, church, market-place, 385;
Sunday schools, 326.

Stratford fVdUer, Bucks, credulity of
tlie peasantry, 3aa.

Streatie)f, Berks, 171.

5an«ii^, Berks, formerly a bishop's
see, 108; linea on two infants.
Sunning bridge, 1C9.

Sunnip^ //}//, Berks, iu mmeral waters,
church, 273. Selwood Park, the
seat of James Sibbald, Esq. account
of, 273.

Suttmy Bedfordshire, the ancient arat
and royalty of John of Gaunt,
given by him to Sir Robert Bur-
govne by a quaint gnot, 76; Bishop
S r ilii ngf l n a i nMniii Br oftkiapafffch,77.

Taploe

INDEX,

martyr-

Taploc House, Bucks, the scat of the
Marquis of Thomond, the place
of confinement of Princess Elizabeth,

397.

Taste, specimen of impure, 25.

Teeth, remarkable anecdote of a gen-
tleman who had a new set at the age
of eighty, 81.

Tenures, singular. At Bockhampton,
274; at Enbome, 275; at Ayles-
^^^9 344 ; ai Farnham Royal,
396.

Tessalated pavement, 36a.

Thames, description of the, 85.

ThaUham^ Berkis, description of, 169.

Theal, Berks, approach to, 109.

Tickfordj Bucks, its abbey, 336

Tilfsworth, William, his cruel n
dom, a8.

Tottenho^f Bedfordshire^ an ancient
camp, 30.

Turviifc, Bucks, extent of the parish,
Rdman coins found there, 371.

Tylehurst, Berks, a large heath, 176.

Tyrinzham^ Bucks, anecdotes of the fa-
mily of, 332.

Unton, Sir Edward, his remarkable
challenge to the Duke of Guise,
»33.

Vase, description of a beautiful one,

58.
Virginia Water, Windsor Forest, Berks,

272.

Verrio, observations on his paintings,
242. •

Waller, Edmund, anecdotes of him,

390-
Walling FORD, Berks, its origin un-
certain, 15O; situation, its ancient
bridge, ruins of the caMJc, 151 ; its
history, meaning of the word Keep,
^52 ; population at various periods,
its ancient importance, present state,
description, 154; churches, St. Pe-
ter's spire, 155; its manor, privile-
ges to criminals, articles of cultiva-
tion, 156; Richard, an eminent
mathematician, John, an historian,
»57.

fVahhoMj LMwrence, Buckif its «v-
cient tute. Waitham^ White, coins
discovered there; Heacne, Thomas,
the antiquary, bom there, 181.

Waktace, Berks, a Roman ataftion,
the birth-place of Alfred, 136; a
royal seat in the times of the Saxons,
137 ; Bishop Butler born here, 149.

Warden Abbey, Bedfordshire, formerly
a considerable monastery, now a ruin,

74.
Wargravcy Berks, its history, lale Earl
of Barrymore's seat and theatre,
180.

Wavcndoxi; Heath, Bucks, famous for
fuller's earth pits, 337.

Wayland Smith, Berks, a druidical
remain, 130.

Wenlock, John, Lord, particolan
concerning him, 31.

Wendover, Bucks, likely to be bene-
fited by the canal, gnnd reservoir,
353; anecdotes respecting its parlia-
mentary privileges, its distinguished
natives, 354.

Whaddcn^ Bucks, manor of, 338; Bishop
Cox bom here, 330.

Wharton family, anecdotes of the, 383.

Wharton, Phillip, his versatility, cha-
racter, 384; and wretched end, 388.

Whitehead, the Poet, his singular be-
quest, 368.

Whitclock, Bulstrodc, sketch of hit
character, 371.

White Place, Berks, 193.

White Horse Vale, description of, and
White Horse, 126.

White Knights, Berks, the seat of the
Marquis of Blaiuiford, particulars
concerning it, 108.

Whitchurch, Bucks, castle, church,
349.

Willows, The, Berks, a scat of H. T.
Ward, Esq. 197.

Wilton Park, Bucks, the seat of J. Du
Pre, Es^. described, 392.

n'inchendon, Upper, Bucks, 352.

WiNDsoa, derivation of its name, al-
ways a royal domain, its origin con-
nected with the castle, made a free
borough, 198; corporation, right of
election, description of the town,
streets, guildhall, 199; church, do-
nations, free-school, hospital for sick
soldiers, theatre, zpo; concentration
of the military foice by barracks,
soi.

Windsor Castle,, its situation, history,
201 to 204; terrace, keep described.

toW:

-. .- I -Tn.

_. .., Ac. dncribol,

' ■(• to agti bSmoftj of ib> ordv n(
IM guttr, offican, tad aioda of

•MKp, ad_ poor I
lonb bouitiQiMto',

iu;:

£dwird III. iMcdoUi of,
HmryVI. hi* hiMory, •6*: Liuk
Park, H«nie>» o«k, ■&■; Giot Firii,
•68i Norfblk fvm, t&9; Fkmiih

■ WiHiLow, Boclu, chucbtSM.

Witehndm, BkIu, the art tfCooa-
ICH Dowiger Conynf^BB, (66.

JPiHwi, IcriUiCbiKb, putkaluican-
cnshig it; wciaot mwuon of tht

' Zail of Ablagdon, account of; ra-
bben of ifaajhDihiB by Oftk, 167.

Voad, faiwly collinMd in Bedtbrd-
fbin^ wieiMt Brituoi BiiCHd ibtir
bodiawlthh, 80.

Womaif, Bcdfofdiliim, dcrivo in
imporunce fnmi tb« mm near it,
partly dcuroyed by fire, 371 ratO'
red Iw Um late Duke, mirkei-houie,
' efaurcfi; Ruuel, the noble fimily of,
greet bencfactun to ihe lown, 38^
chintie*, fullcn' earth piti, 391 par-
ciculaii cdncemiDg ihein, 4a.

Woburn Abbey. Bedfoi^iliire, the
•eat of the Duke of Bedford, iu
hiitory a> a religintu founduinn, ^a ;
descciption of the new buildingi,
pirintingi, with anecdotcr, &c. 43 <□
gB; green-bouK, jS; Linti vaie,

dociipCioa ofi J9; iutj, dMotp-
tioa of tbe aamnindiiw cooBtrf,
Hiticolar deacriptiaa of tbc fiirit
nTB,60iaapaal iheep-abariu pte-
miuBUi 611 RuMd nmily, m.
WottOD noder Benwood, Kaelu, Iba
of Eail Temt^e, aeeaain of.

pXw,]

iBocki, indcacrSpiioa and bib

dIcT, Berki, tbe aeattttibe JU^
B. neaiy Addinguo, 107.
WmllMttUm, Bnfci, ddcriptioa o^

leaETiptna, 66, _.. „_

of pietuiei, 6j;pleMa(agra(iDd^Tak
Wriothealy, ThoBai, Eaif of Soiiik-

ampUn, eharadei, ($; mA nnhia

eoitdncl, 316.
Wycombe Abbey, Buck), the Hat

of Lord Canington, Ita (Uauipiiua,

au-

rvcoMai, HroB, Bocka, Iti ritv
tion, 361 ; biitory, 363: dctcrlp.

364:

n.h.11, c

how governed, trade, 3^5;

11 pTaentinenI, 366.

Wycombe Piik, Bucki, the aeit of

Sir John Duhwood King, itt btau-

lin, viewi, 369; the houie deaeri-

bed, 370.

IPyramii, If'iJt, Buclu, manor, itt hit.

deictiption of the church,

:heid, 36S ; cpiupb, 369.

CORRECTIONS TO VOL. I.

page 3, line ^%, fir Bradfield, nsd firayfield. P. 7, lines iSt ^^» ^'^
, This and Uamld are the only mai ket-towna, &c. P. ft, foty " their
chapel it called the Single. Houae/* rtdd^ The House adjoining their chapel,
where the Sisten live, is called the Single-House. P. 37, 1. 13, rttd Ia»
gnmkurg, P. 67, 1. 29, fir Whitaker of Manchefter, rcad^ Whitaker» CIW
Historian of Manchefter. P. 68» 1. 33, fir 1726, readijjS, P. 71, !•
31, yer6Sth, reMdy^th, P. 75, omit the account of the earthquake; wt
have reason to believe it origioaced with some wild inhabitants of the town,
who made it their business to circulate Lyimg IFoiidert. The fire at Biggle-
swade, page 75, was on the i6th of June, 1785; that at Potton, the 14th
of August, 1783. P. 76, 1. 26, /or will, rvtfi grant. P. 80, Note, I. i,
omit the words, on that tubject, P. 87, 1. 12, fir Caversham, rsMi/ Reading.
P. 97, last 1. /or 30,000, read ^000. P 157, I. 24, ^or Sinodun Hill,
read, Witts N ham Hill, the name it has obtained in modern times. P.
175, 1. 20, fir purchased the manor-house, read, purchased a farm-house
in thij parish. P. 209, 1. %, fir 1788, r^tf^ 6th of August, 1787. L. 13,
in the description of the Cartoons, &c. omit the words, *'and other paitt
are nearly cut through in tracing/* L. 15, same page, '* patched and** should
be omitted. P. 210, 1. 32, read ** light dragoons,** omit guards. P. 211, I.
29, read prevailed on her to feed on capons fed with the flesh of vipers. P.
216. 1. 32, the "Portrait of Raphael** is removed, we believe, to Ken.
sington. P. 221, 1. 24, 25, 26, rtW Sir Thomas Tiddinian; Sir William
Bartlettf instead of Berkley ; and Sir Jotn (instead of Joseph) Harman. P.
*3i> !• 3» fi''* " threw herself upon her knees,** read *« threw herself
into a supplicatory attitude.** P. 249, I. 13, read << that if their admission
had not been prevented, the skeleton, &c.** P. 339, 1. 27, fir small, read
large. P. 346, Note^ U 4, fir, hen, read duck.

in* ■

i '

% •

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