THE BLACK HILLS;
O R,
THE LAST HUNTING GROUND
OF THE DAKOTAHS.
A COMPLETE HISTORY
Of the Black Hills of Dakota from their First invasion in
1874 to the Present Time, Comprising a Comprehensive
Account of How They Lost Them; of Niimerous
Adventures of the Early Settlers; Their Heroic
Struggles for Supremacy against the Hostile
Dakotah Tribes, and their Final Victory;
The Opening of the Country to
White Settlement, and its
Subsequent Development./
BY
ANNIE D. TALLENT.
ST. LOUIS:
NiXON-JONES PRINTING CO.
1899.
PftESERVAT«)N
COPY ADDED
f o5l
Entered according to Act of Congress, In the year 1899, by
ANNIE D. TALLENT,
In the offlce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
FG51
To My
Fellow-Pioneers
This Work
Is Respectfully inscribed.
iwl8S687
INTRODUCTION.
By some strange influence upon the jjrocesses of the
human mind, trifling occurrences and incidents in the lives
of nations, as well as individuals, frequently assume large
proportions, and grow in interest year by year as they go
by. "As distance lends enchantment to the view," so
time throws the glamour of romance over receding events.
Belief in these bits of proverbial wisdom, and the hope
that the mellowing influence of nearly a quarter of a century
may have likewise invested the unwritten chapters of Black
Hills pioneer history with added interest, together with the
helpful encouragement of many friends throughout the
Hills, first induced the author to undertake the task result-
ing in the production of this little work. It seemed proper,
too, that the part enacted by those who stood in the front
ranks, in the thick of the fray, in the sanguinary battle for
the settlement of the Black Hills, should be placed upon
record before they " shuflied off the mortal coil," or, ere
passing years should leave but a shadowy memory of their
courage and brave endurance, and future generations be
thus compelled to accept the story of their struggles and
heroism as a vague and unsatisfactory tradition.
The original plan and scope of the work did not con-
template a full and comprehensive history in all its broad
significance, but a compilation of all information in relation
to the Black Hills, obtainable without labored research,
(V)
CONTENTS.
Chapter I.
PAGE
The Dakotahs 1
First Invasion of Black Hills 4
First Movement Looking Toward Colonization of
Black Hills in 1872 5
Adventures on the Border 8
Chapter H.
The Custer Black Hills Expedition 13
Gold E'ound by Indians 17
Organization of First Expedition 18
Chapter III.
Preparations for the Journey 20
Sioux City Gold Hunters 25
The First Defection 27
Chapter IV.
Crossing the Niobrara 32
Bill of Fare on the Plains 36
Sickness in Camp ... 40
Almost a Tragedy within the Fold 42
Chapter V.
Crossing the Bad Lands 45
A Death in Camp 47
(ix)
X CONTENTS.
PAGE
An Amusing Incident 49
First Sight of tlie Black Hills 52
Chapter VI.
Crossing the Cheyenne River 53
Indians Discovered 53
Strike Custer's Trail and Journey through the Black
Hills — A Revelation 57
Reach French Creek and find Gold 60
Christmas Day in the Black Hills in 1874 .... 63
Chapter VII.
Building Stockade ^Q
Life in Stockade during Winter of 1874-5 ... 67
Messengers carry out the Glad Tidings .... 75
Two More Leave the Stockade 81
Stockade Party taken out of the Hills by the Gov-
ernment 84
Chapter VIII.
Riding out of the Hills on a Government Mule . . 87
Reach Fort Laramie 94
Terrible Experience of Troops sent after our Expe-
dition 96
AStreet Interview with " Wild Bill '^ 100
Chapter IX.
The Black Hills — Its Mountains, Forests, Climate,
Productions, etc 103
The Black Hills never the Home of the Indians . . Ill
Some Indian Traditions 112
ImmJorration to Black Hills in 1875-76 .... 115
CONTENTS. XI
Chapter X.
PAGE
The First to Enter the Bhick Hills in 1875 ... 118
The First Expedition in 1875 120
Scientific Expedition sent to Black Hills .... 123
Chapter XI.
The Cession of the Black Hills 130
Advent of Gen. Crook in Black Hills 134
Miners Leave Hills by Order of Gen. Crook . . . 136
Miners Return to Hills 138
The Cavalry Force Withdrawn 139
Custer City in 1875 140
French Creek the Mecca of Pioneers in 1875 . . . 141
Chapter XII.
Some of the Pioneers of 1875, and how they got to
the Black Hills 143
The Major Part of the Expedition 158
Chapter XIII.
How Some of the Pioneers Fooled Uncle Sam . . 160
Chapter XIV.
Firf^t Discovery of Placer Gold in Northern Hills . 171
First Locations on Deadwood Gulch 176
First to bring Merchandise to the Black Hills . . 181
First Gold Dust taken out of Black Hills .... 187
Chapter XV.
Early Freight and Passenger Transportation to Black
Hills r . . . . .' 189
Early Postal Facilities in the Black Hills .... 193
XU CONTKNTS.
Chapter XVI.
PAGE
The Yellowstone Expedition or the Indian Campaign
of 1876 199
The Custer Column 203
Chapter XVII.
News of the Terrible Disaster reaches the Black Hills 222
The Summer Campaign — Gen. Geo. Crook . . . 227
Chapter XVIII.
The Year 1876 in Black Hills 236
Some of the Expeditions of 1876 236
Chapter XIX,
Montana Expeditions 249
The Centennial Party 259
Outward-bound Pilgrims 262
Chapter XX.
Chapter of First Events 264
Second Suit in Equity in the Black Hills .... 266
First Person Killed 268
Chapter XXI,
Custer in 1876 287
Massacre of Metz Family 294
Hostiles Returning: from Little Big Horn . . , , 295
Raids on Custer 296
Scalped a Man Alive 298
CONTENTS. Xm
CHArTER XXII.
PAGK
Rapid City iu 1876 • . 803
Block House Built 314
Upper Rapid 314
Location of Ranches in Rapid River Valley in 1876 . 314
CHAPrEH XXIII.
A Trip from Cheyenne to Deadwood in 1876 . . . 316
A Personal Reminiscence 325
Chapter XXIV.
Placer Mining in Deadwood Gulch in 1876 . . . 332
Placer Mining Processes 336
Hydraulic Placer Mining 339
Early Quartz Mining in the Black Hills 341
Peculiarities of Miners 344
Chapter XXV.
Deadwood in 1876 346
Sunday in Deadwood — Pioneer Days 354
Deadwood by Lamplight 355
How We Celebrated Our Natal Day in 1876 ... 356
Platting of South Deadwood 361
First Mulder in Northern Hills 362
Murder of Wild Bill 366
Chapter XXVI.
Indian Raid on Montana Herd . 370
Wolf Mountain Stampede 373
Telegraph Line Reaches Deadwood 376
Failure of Bill for Territory of Lincoln . . . . 380
XIV CONTENTS.
Chapter XXVII.
PAGE
Black Hills opened to Settlement 383
Judges of the Black Hills District and Circuil Courts 384
Highway Robbers and Road Agents 385
How a Deadwood Lady Saved Her Watch .... 389
Deadwood Famous Treasure Coach 390
Chapter XXVIII.
Custer County 395
The Mines of Custer County 398
The Mica Mines of Custer County ...... 403
Custer City 405
Sylvan Lake 406
Custer in 1877 408
Hermosa 415
Chapter XXIX.
Pennington County — Its organization . . . . 416
County Seat 420
Schools and Churches 422
Library Association 425
Secret Orders — Manufacturing 427
Chlorination Works — Water System of Rapid City. 428
School of Mines 432
Rapid City — Incorporated 435
Rapid City Fire Department and Banking Institutions 438
Chapter XXX.
Horse Stealing Around Rapid City in 1877 . . . 443
Mining Stampedes in Rapid City 444
CONTENTS. XV
Chapter XXXI.
PAGE
Hill City 448
Queen Bee — Sberidan . . 455
Rochford 458
Pactola . 462
Harney 465
Hayward 466
Rockerville 467
Castleton, Sitting Bull, Silver City, and Keystone . 472
Chapter XXXH.
Lawrence County . 476
Deadwood 479
The Great Fire 486
Deadwood' s Water System 488
The Great Flood 490
Chapter XXXIII.
New Deadwood 496
Deadwood's Reduction Works 496
Deadwood's First Railroad 498
Banking Institutions 501
Chapter XXXIV.
History of Homestake Mines ^ . 508
Lead City 517
Emergency Hospital 524
Hearst Free Library — Newspapers, etc 524
Chapter XXXV.
Central City 528
Churches 530
XVI CONTENTS.
PAGK
Terraville 535
Crook City 537
Chapter XXXVI.
Speai-fish 540
Chapter XXXVII.
Horse Thieves and Cattle Rustling on the Northern
Frontier 559
Fight with Exelbee Gang — Sequel to the Fight . . 562
How Spearfish came to be called " The Queen City " 565
Spearfish Normal School 566
Organization 571
Chapter XXXVIII.
Galena Silver Camp 576
Terry 579
Bald Mountain Refractory Ore Deposit 582
Chapter XXXIX.
Our Pioneers 592
Society of Black Hills Pioneers 593
Black Hills Pioneers and Historical Society of 1877 . 605
Chapter XL.
Meade County 607
Sturgis 612
Schools, Churches 617
Banks, Manufactures, and Water System .... 622
Electric Light System 625
CONTENTS. XVn
Chapter XLI.
PAGK
Fort Meade 631
Tilford 635
Piedmont 636
Black Hawk 639
Chapter XLU.
Fall Kiver County 640
Thermal Springs 642
Chapter XLIII.
Hot Springs of Minnekahta 655
Public Institutions — Fire Department and Electric
Light Systems 659
Cascade, Wind Cave 670
Edgemont , 672
Chapter XLIV.
Butte County 675
Minnesela 678
Belle Fourche . 679
Cattle Shipping Industry 684
Building Wyoming & Missouri River R. R. ... 684
Cattle Out6ts of Black Hills 685
Chapter XLV.
Organization of Dakota Territory and Subsequent
Struggle for Statehood 687
Sioux Treaties 687
Assessed Valuation of South Dakota 695
South Dakota Permanent School Fund 696
0
xvm
CONTENTS.
Chafter XLVI.
PAGK
The Treaty of 1889 for the Great Sioux Reservation
in Dakota . 697
The Messiah Craze, etc 700
The Arrival of a Military Force at Pine Ridge . . 703
The Advent of Gen. Miles and the Disarmament of
the Hostiles 708
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOKS.
-r^ i.- • .... Fiont.
Frontispiece
Stone Showing Record of Early Black Hills History 10
H. N. Ross ; ' ■ o!
The Pioneers of 1874 f^ces p. 24
The Gordon Stockade, 1876 ^^
Eaf Witcher, March, 1875 J^J^
The Needles near Harney's Peak
Devil's Tower showing Millions of Tons of Fallen
Rocks
Prof. Walter P. Jenny f'^^^s p. 124
Red Cloud
Spotted Tail ' ' ' ' J ' ' ^7o
Wm. Lardner ^«^« P' ^^
Fred. T.Evans f-<^«« P- f^
H. N. Witcher f^^««« P' ^^^
Transportation from Pierre to Deadwood ' ' ' JZ^
Sitting Bull ; ■ ■ 919
Gen. Custer's Last Charge taces p. 212
Gen. Custer's Last Battle faces p. 220
^ /-, - . faces p. 22b
Gen. Custer 988
Sioux Indians in War Costumes ^6Q
Attack on Wagon Train en route to Black Hills in
246
1876
Black Hills Treasure Coach
Dr. D.W. Flick tkcesp. 26b
A. W. Merrick • • • ^^^^^ P' ;J^
Porter Warner f^««« P- f„^
Col. James M. Wood f^«^^ P- -'^
Jack Langrishe ^''^'' P- ^^^
(XIX)
XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Capt. C. V. Gardner faces p. 280
Milton E. Pinney faces p. 282
Judge Thomas Hooper faces p. 288
Custer in 1876 289
S. M. Booth. . faces p. 292
Scene at Red Canyon after the Murder of the Metz
Party 293
Thomas E. Harvey faces p. 300
Ellis T. Peiice, Bhick Hills Humorist . . faces p. 302
John R. Brennan faces p. 306
Block House at Rapid City — 1876 313
Capt. Jack Crawford, the Poet Scout 327
No. 4, above Discovery, on Deadwood 333
Cabin on Claim No. 2, Deadwood Gulch .... 335
White Rocks Overlooking Deadwood . ... 347
Deadwood in 1876 349
Witcher's Freight Train on the Streets of Deadwood
in 1876 353
Gen. A. R. Z. Dawson faces p. 360
James Halley faces j). 378
Judge Granville G. Bennett faces p. 383
Hon. Gideon C. Moody faces p. 385
Custer City faces p. 404
Sylvan Lake 407
Joseph Kubler faces p. 411
The Start for Harney Peak 413
A Distant View of Harney's Peak . . . faces p. 418
Rapid City in 1878 421
Richard B. Hughes faces p. 424
Rapid City Chlorination Plant and School of
Mines faces p. 428
Beecher's Rocks, near Custer 430
Rapid City, Looking North, in 1899 . , . faces p. 436
Judge John W. Nowlin faces p. 442
Hill City in 1876 449
Old U. S. Courthouse, Sheridan .... faces p. 456
Rochford at the Beginning of the Boom, 1878 . . 460
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI
Stage Coach, Main Street, Deadwood 481
Deadwood after the Great Flood of 1883 .... 493
The Deadwood & Delaware Smelter, Deadwood,
South Dakota faces p. 497
Sol. Star . faces p. 502
Frank J. Washabaugh faces p. 504
Deadwood from Forest Hill faces p. 506
The Great Homestake Works at Lead . . faces p. 512
The Homestake Hoisting Works, 2,000 Horse-power
used. Lead City 516
Lead City, Black Hills, South Dakota . . faces p. 522
Central City in 1878 529
Seth Bullock faces p. 534
Terraville Gold Mining Camp 536
Crook City in 1876 538
Speartish in 1876, with Lookout Mountain in the
Background 544
Spearfish Town in 1877 552
Picture Gallery in Spearfish in 1877 556
Terry, Mining Center of the Great Refractory Ore
District of the Black Hills 580
Golden Reward Gold Mine, Deadwood 585
Kildonan Chlorination Mine at Pluma, between Dead-
wood and Lead 589
Spearfish in 1895 faces p. 572
Group of Presidents of Society of Black Hills Pio-
neers faces p. 598
Building Erected at Lead by P. A. Gushurst, faces p. 601
Sturgis in 1899 faces p. 609
Meade County Courthouse 611
Street Scene in Sturgis, 1898 626
Rough Riders Leaving Sturgis for Cuba, May, 1898. 629
Fort Meade, Bear Butte in the Background, faces p. 632
"Comache" 635
Horseshoe Curve on the Fort Pierre R. R, between
Lead and Piedmont 637
'Col. Wm. Thornby faces p. 647
XX 11
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Dr. R. D. Jeuniugs faces p. 652
The First House on the Original Town-site of Hot
Springs, built by Dr. R. A. Stewart 656
South Dakota Soldiers Home, Hot Springs . . . 660
Interior of Plunge Bath, Hot Springs . . faces p. 664
Hot Springs faces p. 668
Cowboy Scene in the Black Hills 676
Cattle Shipping Pen at Belle Fourche 680
Grand Council Between Friendl}^ and Hostile Chiefs. 704
Buffalo Bill Holding a Conference with Sitting
Bull faces p. 707
/'
THE BLACK HILLS;
OIR
The Last Hunting Ground of the Dakotahs.
C H x\ P T E R I.
THE DAKOTAHS.
As this book is designed to be only a history of the
events and incidents connected with the white settlement
of the Black Hills, as stated in the introduction, it seems
unnecessary to go back to the races that had occupied this
portion of the great American continent long centuries ago,
and of which we have no knowledge save that which is
based upon vague tradition, nor does it seem necessary to
more than briefly refer to the mournful history of the tribes
of the great Sioux Nation, or the Dakotahs, who have
been driven from the East towards the setting sun until
their last and most cherished hunting ground was lost
to them forever.
The Dakotahs, or Nadowessioux — abbreviated by the
French explorers and trappers to Sioux — were doubtless a
valorous people considered from an Indian standpoint, and
are credited with many deeds of wonderful prowess in their
numerous conflicts with the hostile tribes to the eastward,
against whom they maintained their broad possessions for
at least 200 years undisturbed — and we know not how
much longer.
(1)
2 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
About the middle of the seventeenth century the Dako-
tahs occupied a vast stretch of territory extending from the
48° of north hititude to the Missouri river, and stretching
westward to the main range of the Kocky Mountains.
In 1837 they ceded to the United States all their land
lying east of the Mississippi river, since which time they
have been losing their once wide domain slice by slice until
at the time of the invasion of the Black Hills in 1874, they
were confined to the limit prescribed by the treat}^ of 1868,
which will be referred to farther on.
My readers need not be told in detail how that once pow-
erful people were reduced in numbers, by almost constant
conflicts with other tribes to the eastward of the Great
Lakes, nor of how, by the numerous French and Indian
wars, and their consequent defeats, they were finally forced
to abandon the country, so long occupied by them, around
the small lakes and headwaters of the Mississippi, and
driven down and westward onto the plains of the Missouri,
preceded by the Cheyennes, nor of the various cessions of
their territory made by them to the general government,
nor of how they fought the onward march of civilization,
inch by inch, until all the Western frontiers were marked
by a trail of the blood of innocent women and children ; or,
mayhap, by their capture and torture even worse than
death ; nor of the consequent wars with the United States,
by which they were almost exterminated, and finally
driven to the wall. All this is already a matter of common
histor}^ vfith which most school girls and boys are familiar
at the present day.
It is well known that, up to the year 1877, there had
been almost perpetual hostilities on the part of the Indians,
on the excuse of broken treaties, etc., the suppression of
which cost the government many millions of treasure, as
well as the sacrifice of thousands of human lives, and which
decimated the Indian tribes, till now there is but a pitiful
remnant of them left. While it cannot be claimed that
treaty obligations have not been sometimes violated on the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 3
part of the government — as in the cases of Colorado and
Montana, when vast hordes of adventurers and gold-seekers
crossed and recrossed the Indian domain, despite treaty
stipulations, frightening and killing the game upon which
they almost solely depended as means of sustenance.
The treaty of 1868, guaranteeing to the Indians as a
permanent reservation, all the territory lying between the
Missouri river on the east, and the western boundary of
Dakota on the west, and from the north boundary of the
State of Nebraska on the south', to the forty-sixth parallel
of latitude on the north ; also stipulated that the country
north of the Phitte river in Nebraska, and east of the
summit of the Big Horn mountains in Wyoming, should be
held and considered unceded Indian territory, and that no
white person or persons should be permitted to settle
upon, or occupy any portion of same, nor to pass through
without the consent of the Indians; and also conceded the
right to the Indians to hunt south of the North Platte, as
far as the Republican Fork of the Smoky Hill river, for a
terra of years, or, as long as the buffalo might range in
sufficient numbers to justify the chase, and prohibited
soldiers from entering the unceded territory, north of the
Platte. The treaty of 1868 also stipulated that the govern-
ment should remove all military posts and government
roads within the limits of their reservation, the right to
establish which was granted by the treaty of 1851. In
the following year, 1869, notwithstanding the treaty of
1868, all Indians found oft' their permanent reservation,
were considered hostile, and under the jurisdiction of mili-
tary authority. That the provisions of the above treaty
were sometimes violated by the Indians there can be no
doubt, and that its provisions were disregarded by the
invasion of their reservation in 1874-5-6 is indisputable,
but, ignoring the ethical side of the question, should such
treaties as tend to arrest the advance of civilization, and
retard the development of the rich resources of our country,
ever have been entered into? This is a question which de-
4 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
mands much thoughtful consideration. Although haviog^
deep-seated convictions on this troublesome Indian problem,
as it is not within the province of this book to give them
expression, the question may as well be turned over to the
moralist and political economist for discussion.
FIRST INVASION OF THE BLACK HILLS.
Prior to the year 1874, that portion of the Indian Ter-
ritory known as the Black Hills, was a part and parcel of
the happy hunting ground of the red man, and had for
long centuries lain in an isolation almost complete as
" Darkest Africa." Up to that year none of the several
expeditions sent to this Western country for the purpose of
exploration or subduing the hostilities of the Indians, had
succeeded individually or collectively in penetrating the
mountain fastnesses of the Black Hills, with the sole ex-
ception of Gen. Harney, who, with members of his staff,
climbed the rugged peak, which was honored with that
brave officer's name, and on its lofty summit unfurled our
national emblem for the first time to the mountain breeze,
and under its sacred folds pledged to it their allegiance and
undying loyalty in numerous bumpers of sparkling cham-
pagne, as evidenced by the many empty bottles discovered
on the spot by the pioneers about two decades later. And
thereby hangs a romantic tale.
The first military and scientific expedition sent out for
the purpose of exploration, known as the Warren Expe-
dition, failed to consummate the plan of penetrating the
Black Hills, as will be seen by the following extract from
the report of Lieutenant Warren to the government.
He says: " Setting out from Fort Laramie on the 4th of
September, 1856, we proceeded direct for the Black Hills,
via Ravv Hide Butte, Old Woman's Creek, the Southern
Fork of the Cheyenne, and Beaver Creek; up a branch of
this last stream we entered the Hills (the foot-hills). We
continued north to the vicinity of Inyan Karce (or the
peak which makes the mountain), a remarkably high ba-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 0
saltlc peak, one of the highest of the mountains and so far
to the north that we had a full view of the prairie beyond.
Here we were met by a very hirge force of the Dakotahs
who made such earnest remonstrance and threats against
our proceeding into their country that I did not think it
prudent for us as a scientific expedition to venture further
in this direction. Some of them were for attacking us im-
mediately, as their numbers would have insured success,
but the lesson taught them by Gen. Harney, in 1855, made
them fear they would meet with retribution, and this I
endeavored to impress upon them. We were at this time
almost in sight of the place where these Indians had plun-
dered Sir George Gore, in 1856, for endeavoring to pro-
ceed through their country."
The expedition of Capt. Reynolds, sent out in 1859 with
the object of exploring to the north and west of the Black
Hills, around the headwaters of the Yellowstone and Mis-
souri river, its line of march being along the northern
slope, and on its southward march the western slope of the
Black Hills, made no attempt to enter the Hills; so I think
the assertion is justified that no military or scientific expe-
'dition ever penetrated the interior recesses of the Black
Hills until the year 1874.
FIRST MOVEMENT LOOKING TO THE COLONIZATION OF THE
BLACK HILLS, IN 1872.
It is a matter of unwritten history, however, that an
unsuccessful attempt was made to organize a formidable
expedition to colonize the Black Hills in 1872, the project
having its origin in the exceedingly fertile brain of Charlie
Collins, then editor of the Sioux City Times, Iowa. It
may not be out of place here to refer back to an earlier
scheme which, while not pertinent to this history, will
reveal the peculiar mental bent of this adventurous man.
His first dream, beginning in 1869, was of a gigantic
colonization scheme which contemplated the founding,
somewhere on the banks of the Missouri river, a powerful
b THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Irish-American empire, whose guiding star would lead
towards the British dominions on the north. The plan
devised by himself and his co-operator, John P. Hodnett,
then U. S. Assessor for Dakota Territory, was to orsran-
ize, in different parts of the country, colonies of Irish-
Americans to enter homesteads and settle upon that portion
of the Sioux (Brule) reservation lying on the east adjacent
to the river, opposite the mouth of White river, so that —
as in substance stated by himself — when " England's dif-
ficulty," and "Ireland's opportunity" should arise, a
patriotic army of Irish-American colonists could conveni-
ently, and without interference, invade the British domnin
and wipe out, root and branch, their long-time oppressors
from the face of the American continent.
Thus it will be discerned that the scheme, while desio;netl
for the betterment of the condition of native and American
born Irishmen in this country, had the eartnarks of Fenian-
ism plainly impressed upon its face. The plan was submitted
to the Fenian Convention held in St. Louis in the fall of
1869, which resulted in the selection of a committee to
visit the region referred to and examine its resources, and
if satisfactory to inaugurate the work of colonization. Its
projectors even succeeded in securing the passage of a bill
through Congress, authorizing a colony corporation, for
the management of affairs — the purchase of land, agri-
cultural implements, etc., designating for officers such
names as A. T. Stewart, Jim Fiske, Jr., Ben Butler,
Wendell Philips, and others whose names were then house-
hold words.
So popular became the apparently philanthropic scheme
that a famous millionaire dry goods merchant offered a
half million dollars, to aid in furtherance of the project.
In short, the committee selected to visit and report upon
the resources of the region of prospective settlement, being,
for the most part tenderfeet, unaccustomed to the terrible
hardships of a journey over the untrodden wilds of Dakota,
returned with a very poor opinion of the Indian domain,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 7
and submitted a majority report unfavorable to the scheme.
A minority of the committee, who reported favorably, had
selected the site where Brule City now stands, as the seat
of empire, and named it Limerick. The majority report
however, dealt a vital blow to the project and it collapsed.
Mr. Collins then turned his attention to the scheme for the
settlement of the Black Hills as before stated.
To boom the enterprise and attract public attention, he
during the spring and summer of 1872, published in the
Times a series of highly sensational articles which were dis-
tributed broadcast over the land, announcing that an
expedition was organizing in Sioux City with the object of
exploring and revealing to the world the hidden mysteries
of the Black Hills of Dakota.
En passant, it should be stated here that Charlie Collins,
although erratic and visionary to a degree, was a writer of
no mean ability — a man of generous impulses and liberal
to a fault, thoroughly westernized in feeling and sentiment,
and withal a born organizer. With facile pen he por-
trayed in glowing colors the golden treasure concealed
within the rock-ribbed hills and the gulches of the land he
pictuied ; drawing for the most part on his resourceful
imagination for material, or rather for the immaterial,
as the existence of gold in the Black Hills was then
scarcely more than a vague conjecture, based on Indian
tradition. Albeit these articles had the effect of drawing
many to Sioux City, to which its enterprising people were,
naturally, by no means averse. Among those who were
thus attracted was T. H. Russell, a frontiersman of consid-
erable experience, having been a pioneer of Colorado, and
familiar with mining life among the camps of the Rockies.
Through the Indian wives of some of his mountaineer
acquaintances he had gained an intimate knowledge of the
traditions of the existence of gold in the Black Hills, in
which traditions he was a firm believer.
On his arrival in Sioux City he was naturally greatly
disappointed to find that the expedition so glowingly de-
^ THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
scribed in the columns of the Times, as yet existed only
on paper; however, entering into the spirit of the enter-
prise, Collins and Russell, jointly with others, began at
once the work of org-anization.
Prominent among the organizers were Charles S. Soule,
manager of the Northwestern Transportation Company,
Dan Scott, editor of the Sioux City Journal; Harnett &
Howard, and man}' others. Gen A. C. Dawes, general
passenger agent of the Kansas City & St. Joe Railroad,
also lent valuable assistance to the project.
Pamphlets were compiled and published at the Times
oflSce, setting forth the grand possibilities of the Black
Hills, their distance from Sioux City, cost of transporta-
tion, etc. Plentifully supplied with these pamphlets,
Capt. Russell made a tour of the towns along the Missouri
river as far down as Kansas City, judiciously distributing
his literature to such as, in his judgment, were liable to
join. The success of the trip proved all that could be
desired, hundreds from the Missouri river towns enrolling
members of the expedition, which was dated to start
on September 1, 1872. As, apparently, no care had been
taken to keep the expedition secret, the movement tinally
attracted the attention of the military authorities of
the government, when Gen. Hancock, then in command
at Fort Snelling, issued the following peremptory order to
the post commanders on the Missouri river: "That any
expedition organized for the purpose of penetrating the
Black Hills, be immediately dispersed, the leaders arrested
and placed in the nearest military prison." This order
inflicted the death blow to the projected expedition to
the Black Hills in 1872. All preparation immediately
ceased, and the expedition was abandoned, much to the
disappointment and disgust of the organizers.
ADVENTURES ON THE BORDER.
It is claimed upon authority, which we have no good
reason to dispute, that adventurous parties, at different
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAIvOTAHS. V
dates, as far back as 1859, and perhaps before, had, despite
the vigilance and extreme hostility of the Sioux, who
guarded their domain against encroachment with a jealous
eye, made some discoveries of the precious metkl in the
country west of the Black Hills in the Big Horn Mountains ;
and had also, according to Indian traditions — substantiated
by tangible evidences discovered by prospectors in 1876-7 —
ventured around the western and northern bases and a short
distance into the foothills or spurs of the Black Hills.
There was a story published years ago, for the authenticity
of which I am not able to vouch, and which, therefore, must
be accepted at its face value, that a party of nineteen men
detached themselves at Fort Laramie from a large party of
gold hunters en route for California — influenced by cur-
rent reports of rich gold discoveries in the Black Hills,
made their way thither, found rich gold deposits, and
worked claims, and were all massacred by the Indians, save
one, who shortly after died.
Prospectors coming into the Hills during the great rush
of 1876, claim to have found proofs corroborative of the
above story in the shape of old sluice boxes, gradually
crumbling into deca}^ corroded mining implements, and
other evidences that gold hunters had mined in some of the
gulches along the northern border of the Hills, even as far
back as 1833.
Among the private collection of fossils and other curios
in possession of John Cashner, of Spearfish, St)uth Da-
kota, there is a simple flat stone, carefully preserved and
framed, which furnishes material for an exceedingly inter-
esting bit of early Black Hills history. It is an irregular
sandstone tablet about twelve inches square and two and
one half inches thick, bearing an inscription which, if
genuine, reveals a truly pathetic story. This tablet was
discovered in March, 1887, in the middle draw of Look-
out Mountain, by Lewis Thoen, of Spearfiir'h, while quarry-
ing for builduig stone. It was found concealed under a
large, flat rock, the crevice between which and the ground
10
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
underneath was filled in by the drifting sands of years
and overgrown with vegetation, giving the discovery every
appearance of genuineness.
Learning of this cold, mute witness of an early Black
Hills tragedy, the author, partly to gratify a natural curi-
osity and partly to be enabled to vouch for its existence,
visited the cabinet of Mr. Cashner and found the stone as
above described. On the tablet is inscribed, apparently by
the blade of a pocket knife and in somewhat irregular
lines, as will be seen by the accom)mni ng cut, the follow-
ing tragic story. On one side is recorded: "Came to
these Hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra Kind G.
W. Wood T Brown R Kent Wm King Indian Crow, all
ded but me Ezra Kind. Killed by Inds beyond the high
hill got our gold June 1834." On the reverse side : " Got
all of the gold we could carry our pony all got by the In-
dians. I have lost my gun and nothing to eat and Indians
hunting me."
This story, besides having in itself many of the elements
of probability is, as related by old hunters who had spent
years amongst them, also verified by Indian tradition,
which tells that upon a time, a band of Sioux hunters in
quest of game, came upon a stream, muddied, as they sup-
posed, by beavers, and in following it up, found the small
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 11
party of gold hunters, swooped down upon them, killing
all but one, who escaped, and appropriated their gold, which
was afterward sold to the Hudson Bay Company for
$18,000 (or probably its equivalent in fire water, beads, and
other glittering gewgaws so dear to the hearts of savages).
The fact that this tradition tallies with the record on the
stone tablet, certainly entitles the story to much credence.
The supposition is, that this gold was mined in the
vicinity of Gold Run, about twelve miles from Lookout
mountain, in a direct line. The theory appears to be that
Ezra Kind, after making his escape from the Indians, went
into hiding in the middle draw of Lookout mountain, where
he inscribed his sad story on a piece of sandstone, which he
concealed under a large rock, where he hoped it might
some day be found ; then either died from starvation or
was finally killed by the Indians.
The spot where the tablet was accidentally discovered,
which was also visited, seemed well adapted for the cache,
being some ten or twelve feet below the level of the ground
about it, two large scrub oaks marking the spot. Back
towards the mountain about 100 yards, the draw deepens
to eighteen or twent}' feet and is overhung with large
bushes, making an admirable place for concealment from
Indians.
The publication of the story of the above discovery in
some of the principal newspapers of the country brought
letters from parties who claimed to be relatives of some of
the unfortunate missing men, which tends to strengthen
somewhat its credibility.
Father De Smet, the venerable Catholic missionary, often
visited the Hills with his savage proteges, but how far into
the interior of the Black Hills proper he ever penetrated,
is uncertain.
Let it be borne in mind that what was named the Black
Hills embraced a large scope of territory extending from
the I03d meridian of longitude on the east to the Big Horn
and Wind rivers on the west, and from the Laramie and
12 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Sweetwater rivers on the south to the Yellowstone on the
north, so that it is quite easy to believe that portions of
that territory had been visited and prospected for gold at a
much earlier date than 1874.
In speaking of the Black Hills proper, reference is had
to the main uplift, embraced between the two forks of the
Cheyenne river.
It may safely be asserted then, that no adventurous
spirits ever penetrated very far into the interior of the
Black Hills previous to the year 1874, and, as we have no
positive proof of any such exploration, it may be assumed
that up to that time they had remained a vague mystery.
However, they were destined to remain a mystery no
longer. Thenceforth the beautiful pine-clad Black Hills
were no longer to echo to the shrill war-whoop of the
Sioux, nor the turf of the fair, smiling valleys lying be-
tween, respond to their stealthy tread. In 1874 the camp-
fires of the red man were extinguished in the Black Hills,
never again to be rekindled. The spirit of adventure and
aggression was then abroad in the land ; the handwriting
was on the wall. The gold-ribbed Black Hills were to be
snatched from the grasp of savages, to whom they were
uo longer profitable even as a hunting ground, and given
over to the thrift and enterprise of the hardy pioneer, who
would develop their wonderful resources and thereby
advance the interests and add to the wealth of our whole
country.
AST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. IS^
.CHAPTER ir.
THE CUSTER BLACK HILLS EXPEDITION.
On July 2cl, 1874, ao expedition under the command of
Gen. Geo. A. Custer, left Fort Abraham Lincoln with ten
companies of cavalry, two of infantry, a detachment of
white and Indian scouts, interpreters, miners, teamsters,
etc., in all about 1,000 men, under orders from the Gov-
ernmental Department, to make a reconnoissance of the
country from that point to Bear Butte on the north of the
Hills, and explorations of the country adjacent thereto, on
the southwest, south, and southeast, and into the interior
eastward for the purpose presumably of learning some-
thing of the topography and geological formation of the
Hills, and also of their general character and possible
resources. The prime object of the expedition, however,
would appear to be to ascertain their exact geographical
position, relative to the military posts, Lincoln and Lara-
mie, with a view to the establishment of other posts within
or near the Black Hills, in case future complications with
the Sioux rendered it necessary.
The following extract from the report of William Lud-
low, chief of engineers, Department of Dakota, accompany-
ing the expedition, will make clear its real object : —
" In case of any future complication with the Sioux, or
the needs of bordering civilization should make it neces-
sary to establish military posts on this reservation, indica-
tions all point to the Black Hills as the most suitable point,
both on account of their geographical position, and on the
abundance of wood, water, and grass to be found there.
To explain the value of its position, it should be stated
that the trails from the camp of the hostile Sioux on the
14 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
Yellowstone to the agencies near the Missouri, where live
the reservation Indians, and where the issues of annuities
are made, lead by a southeasterly course through the Hills,
the abundance of game, and ample security of which make
them a ready refuge in time of war, and. a noble hunting
orround in time of peace. It was therefore desirable to
gain positive information regarding them, and to connect
them as well, by reconnoissance with the posts of Lincohi
and Laramie. To accomplish these results was the object
of this expedition."
In this connection the opinion is ventured that there
might have been another object underlying the action of
the government, and one of more vital interest to the peo-
ple of the countr}^ who were looking with covetous eyes
towards this rich domain, namely, their ultimate redemp-
tion from the hands of the Indians, and their consequent
opening to white settlement, in case the vague rumors that
had reached the world, of their fabulous richness, should
be borne out by the facts.
Be that as it may, a hasty exploration was made — all
that was possible in the limited time tixed for the work
(sixty days time), sufficiently extensive, however, to answer
the purpose for which the expedition was organized, and
to gain a partial knowledge of the formation of the Hills,
and their general topographical features.
The expedition entered the Hills on the west, at a point
near Inyan-Kara, penetrated southeastward as far as
Harney's Peak, thence southward across the southern limits
of the Hills to the south fork of the Cheyenne river.
From this point, Charlie Reynolds, Custer's chief of
scouts, was sent alone across the Indian infested country
with dispatches to Fort Laramie, and it is alleged that the
famous scout suffered exposure and privations on the jour-
ne}', from the effects of which he never fully recovered.
Returning to Harney's Peak the expedition spent a few
days prospecting in the region of the Peak, then took up
their march along the Box Elder, and finally after some
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 15
difficulty found its way out of the Hills at a point nearly
opposite Bear Butte, which embraced all the territory
explored.
But very little prospecting was done, and that principally
on the heads of the streams draining the area around
Harney's Peak, where only five days were spent, the longest
time at any one point, in j)roof of which I will quote from
General Custer's Report to the War Department, in detail-
ing the work of the expedition, the following : —
"It will be understood that within the limits of the
Black Hills we were almost constantly marching, never
halting at any one point for a longer time than one day —
except one, and that was near Harney's Peak, where we
remained five days; most of the command, however, being
employed in operations during the halt. From this it will
be seen that no satisfactory or conclusive examination of
the country could be made regarding its mineral deposits ;
enough, however, was determined to establish the fact that
gold is distributed throughout an extensive area within the
Black Hills. No discoveries, as far as I am aware, were
made of gold deposits in quartz, although there is every
reason to believe that a more thorough and extended search
would have discovered it. Seeking for gold was not one
of the objects of the expedition; consequently, we were
but illy-prepared to institute or successfully prosecute a
search for it, even after we became aware of its existence
in the country."
It will be seen from the above that, although prospects
of gold were found in the gulches of the streams flowing
from the region of Harney's Peak, no deposits of gold in
quartz were discovered. The fact was revealed to the pio-
neers of 1874 in their search for gold, very shortly after,
that the prospecting done by the Custer expedition was a
mere bagatelle; besides, there was such a wide discrepancy
of statement in the reports of the experts accompanying
the expedition, in regard to even the existence of gold in
the Black Hills, that the public mind was thrown into a
16
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
greater degree of uncertainty than before, for, while Gen-
eral Custer and the mining experts of the expedition
claimed to have found gold. Prof. Winchell, geologist, was
equally positive in his claim that he did not see a single one
of the shining particles. The sequel has demonstrated.
H. N. ROSS,
Oue of the Mining Experts of tlie Custer Expedition of 1874.
however, that the Professor probably did not see the gold
because he wouldn't. There is an old adage which says :
" There are none so blind as those who won't see."
Be that as it may, it was left to the pioneers of 1874 to
relieve the public mind from the uncertainty into which it
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 17
was thrown by these conflicting reports, and to prove ta
them beyond any doubt the existence of the precious metal
in which the people of the country were, at the time, more
deeply interested than in any other question. In this
state of uncertainty they awaited, with no little anxiety, a
report from the pioneers who were already on their peril-
ous way before the final reports of the Custer expedition
were made public.
GOLD FOUND BY THE INDIANS.
Such of my readers as are familiar with the history of
the early missionaries among the Indians, will doubtless
remember the stories told of the wonderfully rich speci-
mens of gold, platinum and other precious metals shown
by the Indians at the mission, and who, when asked where
they were found, would always point in the direction of
the Black Hills, but would never consent to conduct any
white person to the place, they having doubtless been
warned against the cupidity of the whites by their friends^
the missionaries. In view of the recent rich discoveries
in the Hills it is quite safe to believe that right in or near
the Black Hills, those wonderful specimens were found.
DE SMET EXPLAINS THE USE OF A GUN TO THE INDIANS.
The subjoined story has been handed down from those
missionary days, which the writer is sufficiently credulous
to believe. In substance the story runs thus: " De Smet,
in one of his trips among the Sioux Indians, before
the discovery of gold in California, promised a Sioux
chief a present of a pistol, the use of which he had been
at some trouble to explain. Accordingly he procured
a horse pistol at one of the fur companies' trading
posts, some powder, and caps. On his return to the
home of the chief he redeemed his promise, purposely
neglecting to bring any bullets. The chief overcame the
difficulty by going away and returning after a brief absence
2
18 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
with a handful of yellow metal nuggets, which he requested
be melted into bullets. The missionary, finding that the
nuggets were gold, cautioned the Indians against making
known the existence of gold in their country, as the ' pale
faces ' ^yould undergo untold hardships to possess it."
So, it will be seen that the region of the Black Hills and
westward of them was renowned, in the legends of the
Indians, for their precious metals, and judging from the
rich specimens obtained by the Jesuit Missionaries, this
country will prove something more than a mere glittering
generality.
ORGANIZATION OF FIRST EXPEDITION.
Upon the return of the Custer exploring expedition in
the summer of 1874, Collins and Russell, deeming the time
auspicious for such a movement, renewed their efforts to
organize a Black Hills Expedition. In furtherance of the
scheme they proceeded at once to Chicago, opened an office
on Clark street, and began the work of drawing in recruits.
Their efforts were being rapidly crystallized by the enroll-
ment of numerous members, but the publicity given the
enterprise soon attracted the attention of Gen. Sheri-
dan— then stationed at Chicago, who immediately issued
orders to the commanders of the frontier posts, similar to
the one issued by Gen. Hancock two years before, which
again dealt a vital blow to the project.
Apparently abandoning the enterprise, they gave up
their office in Chicago and returned to Sioux City, where
the following dispatch was sent to the Associated Press by
Chas. S. Soule: "In view of the recent order of Gen.
Sheridan, the Collins & Russell expedition has been aban-
doned for the present." This dispatch was merely a blind
to put the military authorities off their guard, for right
upon its heels, hundreds of letters marked " confidential"
were mailed from the Times office, in reply to those asking
for information in reference to the expedition — stating
that the dispatch promulgated was a blind; that the expe-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAlvOTAHS.
19
dition was a foregone conclusion ; and also, cautioning all
who contemplated going to keep their own counsel and
make known their intentions only at the Times Office.
How many of those numerous correspondents reported
at headquarters has not been ascertained, but it is a well-
known fact that despite the gigantic efforts of those indefa-
tigable workers, the expedition, in point of numbers, did
not materialize to any great extent, as only twenty-six men,
all told, had the hardihood to dety the authorities and
undertake the perilous journey. These few got together,
made their secret arrangements, purchased their supplies
and equipments — paying for them in cold cash out of their
individual pockets, as far as knovvn — and launched secretly
out for the Black Hills without exciting the slightest sus-
picion on the part of the Government officials or creating
a single ripple on the surface of affairs in the pioneer
outfitting city.
This first expedition to the Black Hills has been called
by some the Gordon expedition, in honor of John Gordon,
the leader of the expedition on its journey into the Hills.
This appellation, however, appears to be a misnomer, as
it cannot be ascertained that the guide of the expedition
was in any direct way sponsor for its organization.
It appears from reliable data obtained, that Collins and
Russell, by virtue of their mutual eflbrts to effect an or-
ganization in conjunction with other prominent citizens of
Sioux City, as before recorded, are rightfully entitled to
that distinction. Therefore, by that token, the first expe-
dition will be recorded on the pages of this history as the
Collins-Russell Expedition.
20 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER III.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY.
The following account of the secret preparations for and
the journe}' of the expedition over the plains to the Black
Hills, with incidents of the trip, partakes somewhat of the
nature of historical narration, rather than a bare record of
facts, which it is hoped may render the reading thereof
less tiresome.
Sioux City, the scene of the first movement for the
invasion of the Sioux domain, was, at the time of the open-
ing of this story, an enterprising and rapidly growing
young city, not far back from the threshold of the then
Western frontier — an admirable outfitting point for the
unsettled regions to the Westward, and favorably located
geographically for carrying out the enterprise of its bold
projectors, who were then projecting the secret arrange-
ments for the perilous journey.
Almost any day during the latter part of September, 1874,
there might have been seen small groups of determined
looking: men standing on the street corners, or in the hotel
lobbies — engaged in earnest discussion of some apparently
absorbing topic — an occurrence common enough in any
well regulated city; the only thing remarkable about these
gatherings being that their personnel was always the same,
and whenever closely approached they would immediately
disperse, a circumstance which might have led a critical
observer to suspect them of some dark conspiracy, and if
any curiously inclined person had felt disposed to follow
their movements, when the shadows began to fall, they
might perhaps have been found at some pre-appointed
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH8. 21
place in secret conference behind closed doors. Stranf^ers
they were, for the most part, who had gathered there,
from widely separated localities — extending from the
northern lakes to the southern gulf — drawn thither by
the current rumors that an expedition was about to leave
that convenient point for the Black Hills.
Bright, crisp October comes, and if we board a ferry
boat and cross over to the west bank of the treacherous
Missouri river with its numerous snags and shifting sands,
we will find our little party of Black Hills adventurers
rendezvoused in a grove near by a small village named Cov-
ington, making active but quiet preparations for break-
ing camp, and, strangely enough, with them a woman and
small boy — the former none other than the author of this
story. Speculation was rife around the little community,
and many questions were asked as to the destination of the
outfit, but the men were absolutely non-committal, and it
was then demonstrated that a woman too, can sometimes
keep a secret. The necessity for secrecy becomes obvious
when it is known that the movement was in direct viola-
tion of the express orders of the United States government,
whose vigilance the expedition hoped to escape.
Preparations for the journey were soon completed.
Tents were hurriedly taken down, carefully folded, and
with their poles strapped to the sides of the respective
wagon boxes ; bright, new cooking utensils, coffee pots
and frying pans predominating, were fastened in artistic
array along the outside wherever convenience and taste
dictated. The inevitable water buckets were suspended
from the wngon reaches underneath, and last but by no
means least the "grub boxes," were lifted to their places
at the rear, where they were held in place by an arrange-
ment similar to that employed for the baggage of passen-
gers on the early stage coaches, when everything was in
readiness for moving.
In the afternoon of that memorable day of October 6th,
22 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
1874, the first expedition to the Black Hills cut loose its
prairie craft from its moorings on the banks of the " Rig
Muddy," and followed the " Star of Empire," westward
right through the heart of the .Sioux reserve. As the train
filed out of camp on that October day — the new wagons,
whose white covers bore a " strange device," gleaming
brightly in the afternoon suii, in the lead, the horsemen
on the flanks, the pedestrians — among whom I tripped
jauntily along in the rear — it must have presented an
imposing pageant to the very few observers.
The expedition, in its entirety, was composed of twenty-
six men, one woman, and a boy, six canvas-covered
wagons, each drawn by two pairs of fat, sleek, and a few
of them soniewhat frisky cattle — by the way, they were
neither so fat nor sleek, and not in the least frisky at the
end of the journey. There were also five saddle horses,
and two beautiful gre\diounds, whose frequent frantic
chases after the poor timid antelope and rabbit, proved the
source of much diversion to the expedition on its long,
monotonous march across the bleak, treeless plains. Those
long-limbed, pointed-nosed, fleet hounds — named, respec-
tively, Dan and Fan, were noble specimens of their kind, of
indisputable lineage, and the pets of the entire party.
When a few miles out from the starting point, the train
halted for the night, when the question, as to who should
lead the expedition, and pilot the piratical craft safely to
its destination, came up for consideration. After some
lively canvassing, as to the best man to intrust with so im-
portant an undertaking, the choice finally fell upon John
Gordon, who, claiming to have traveled over the country
as far as the foot-hills, several years before, was deemed
the best fitted, by virtue of such knowledge of the route,
to be our guide and leader.
However, the expedition had not proceeded far on the
journey beyond the line of public travel before it became
apparent that our guide's knowledge of the geography of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAIIS. 23
the country was, to say the least, somewhat vague and un-
certain. He had, doubtless, penetrated the country over
government roads, used for the transportation of supplies
for the military posts to the west of the Black Hills, but
not, it was thought, in the direction of the objective point
of the expedition. Be that as it muy the train was enabled
by the aid of a small pocket compass, carried by Lyman
Lamb, who took daily bearings, to keep the general direc-
tion, and, although the train may have traversed a good
deal of unnecessary territory, our leader was indefatigable
in his efforts to find the most practicable ground over which
to travel, and finally landed the expedition safely — though
somewhat the worse for wear, in the Black Hills. It was
his daily custom to ride out every morning in advance of
the train to mark out the line of march for the day, by
virtue of which he was entitled to unbounded credit.
The expedition was splendidly equipped with munitions
for its defense — each man having provided himself with
the most approved Winchester rifie, besides small arms,
and sufficient ammunition to last by economy for a period
of eight months. Fidelity to history compels me to record,
however, that at divers times, some of our men indulged
in the careless pastime of firing their precious cartridges
at tarfjets, on which occasions I had orrave misojivings as
to whether there would be any left to kill Indians with in
case it became necessary. At times I was strongly tempted
to expostulate with them on their thoughtless waste of
ammunition, but I quickly controlled that inclination, con-
cluding that, perhaps, they knew their own business — at
least they might think they did and take occasion to remind
me of that fact. I did, however, venture to approach them
timidly one day when I thought them uncommonly reck-
less, and say solemnly : " Boys, don't you think you will
need all this ammunition that you are virtually throwing
away when we get out among the Indians?" " Oh, shoot
the Indians," answered one of the boys, irreverently.
24 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Now, deeming this a potent unci convincing argument
against the position I had assumed, and plainly significant,
I meekly yielded the point and referred no more to the
subject.
Our wagons were packed to the guards with sundry pro-
visions, chiefly flour, bacon, beans, also sugar, coflee, a
modicum of tea, a limited quantity of canned goods, butter,
etc. It was estimated that our supply of the staple articles
was sufiicient to last, at least, eight months, and, as the
owners of each outfit purchased their own sup[)lies, the
luxuries were more or less abundant, according to the
purses of the purchasers.
Besides the supply of munitions and provisions, we were
provided with all the necessary paraphernalia for camping,
mechanics' tools, and, to complete the outfit, with picks,
shovels, and gold pans.
Let it l)e understood that the members of the expedition,
while arranging for the journey, had been divided into what
is called, in army parlance, messes, a kind of copartnership
being entered into, the respective partners pooling their
resources tor the purchase of supplies and other property
necessary for transportation, with the understanding that, at
dissolution, the assets be equally divided among the partners.
The grouping was as follows: No. 1 being composed
•of Capt. Tom Russell, Lyman Lamb, Eaf. Witcher, and
Angus McDonald. No. 2, B. B. Logan, Dan McDonald,
or Red Dan, Dan McDonald, or Black Dan (the last two,
bearing the same patronymic, were distinguished by the
color of the shirts they invariably wore), James Dempster,
James Powers, J. J. Williams, and Thomas Quiner. 3d,
John Gordon, J. W. Brockett, Newton Warren, H. Bishop,
Chas. Long, Chas. Cordeiro and Moses Aarons. 4th, R.
R. Whitney, Harry Cooper, David Aken, and John Boyle.
5th, Chas. Blackwell, Thos. McLaren, Henry Thomas, D.
G. Tallent, Annie D. Tallent, and Robt. E. Tallent, then a
Jaoy nine years of age, making twenty-eight in all.
a 03
H 2;
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 25
Now that we had got safely away from Sioux City, the
problem was how to escape suspicion. So on the canvas
covers of the wagons was painted, in large, red letters,
"O'Neill's Colony;" intended as a misleading device,
which, however, turned out to be a rather transparent one,
as very few seemed to be deceived thereby.
The people of the small towns through which we passed,
along the route, regarded our train with a good deal of
justifiable curiosity, and our ears were frequently greeted
with such questions as: " Hullo, where are you going? "
" Where are you bound for, strangers? "
For answer their attention was usually called to the
painted words on the canvas.
" Oh, you can't fool me ; " " What are you giving us? "
and other localisms would be heard in reply.
If they had only been permitted to have taken a look
into the hidden recesses of our wagons, and discovered
the aforesaid picks, shovels, and gold pans, their evident
suspicions would have been amply verified. No doubt
vague rumors had reached those people in advance that an
expedition was on its way to the Black Hills, in reference
to which the subjoined extracts from Nebraska newspapers
will show the trend of public opinion.
SIOUX CITY GOLD HUNTERS.
The West Point Republican says the following extract
from the Oakdale Journal refers to the Sioux City party
under Capt. Russell, a well-known and reliable frontiers-
man, and adds; " Although attempting a dangerous task,
we apprehend that every man fully realizes the situation
and is prepared to face death at any moment."
Here is what the Oakdale paper says : —
" We were misinformed last week in regard to the des-
tination of the supposed emigrant party which passed up
the valley recently. Instead of being sturdy sons of toil
26 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
destined, in the future, to delve in the rich soil of Holt
County, their destination was the Eldorado of the North-
west— the coveted gold fields of the Black Hills. They
were resolute, determined looking fellows, and one
scarcely knows which to do first — admire their courage or
condemn their judgment in thus venturing into an Indian
country in the present temper of the red men. That they
will have to fight their way inch by inch, across the Sioux
territory, is a fact patent to every one conversant with the
facts in the case.
" We fear they have counted without their host, for they
go into a country where dwell Indians enough to surround
their little party a hundred deep. If they are captured
they have no reason to expect mere}' at the hands of the
relentless, bloody Sioux."
Until we had left the last vestige of civiliztition behind
us, each day of our journey was very much like the pre-
ceding one, the same routine of camp duties to perform,
such as pitching tents, gathering wood, building fires, over
which our evening meals were cooked at night, and taking
down and folding tents, preparing our hasty breakfast just
as the autumn days began to dawn. Each member of the
party was required to serve his turn in the performance
of all camp duties, which was really no hardship at that
stage of journey, as no night patrol to guard the camp was
necessary.
Our train traveled r.ather slowly, each day covering an
average distance of from fifteen to twenty miles, not a bad
record, when it is considered that cattle are not noted for
their speed.
Spots, well supplied with wood and water, and favorable
for grazing, were selected for camping grounds, usually
by some one sent out in advance for that purpose. At
night, upon ariving at the ground selected, no time was
lost, each man proceeded with alacrity in the perform-
ance of the duties falling to his share. Supper being
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAHS. 27
disposed of and the remnants gathered up — not even one
very small basketful — a couple of hours were then spent
in telling stories and singing songs, and, by the way, there
were some capital story-tellers in our party, and a few
exceptionally tine singers — notably, young Harry Cooper,
whose rich tenor voice, as it doated out on the still night
air, made one think of the New Jerusalem.
The only drawback to the enjoyment was, that by the
rules adopted I was required to furnish my share of the
entertainment by singing a song or telling a story. Story-
telling being more in my line, I would sometimes rehearse
a tale calculated to " harrow up the soul, freeze the young
blood," etc. — usually one in which tomahawks and scalp-
ing-knives conspicuously figured. At the close of these
outdoor musicals all would retire to their tents to sleep —
perchance to dream of home or " the girls they left behind
them."
I must confess here that I really enjoyed those social
hours spent around the smouldering camp-tire after our days'
journeys were ended. Yes, it was truly glorious out under
heaven's dark canopy, with its myriads of bright stars
twinkling lovingly down upon us like a very benediction —
more especially so in that we realized that we were soon to
become trespassers and outlaws without the pale of civili-
zation.
THE FIRST DEFECTION.
Soon after we left the little village of Norfolk behind,
and were slowly nearing the last settlement, one of the
members of our expedition became suddenly very ill — so
alarmingly sick that he felt it necessary to at once sever
his connection with the enterprise, of which he had been
one of the chief promoters, and speedily return to Sioux
City. Now, I was uncharitable enough to think, at the
time, that the poor fellow just became " awfully " home-
sick, ^.n^\ my opinion has not materially changed since
28 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
then. As it is not essential to this history, and for fear
that I may have done him a mental injustice, his name shall
be withheld. Yet, after all, there perhaps was not one of
us who did not experience occasional twinges of homesick-
ness as we approached the danger line, and visions of
exposure, hardships, sickness, and even death rose up be-
fore us, and the fierce warwhoop of the Sioux was already
ringing in our ears. The outlook was by no means allur-
ing, and one could scarcely be blamed for turning his back
upon such a prospect. Besides, it is certainly no discredit
to be homesick, but rather a proof that in all the wide
world there is no place like home.
This defection left the expedition with only twenty-five
men to face the perils of the journey over the plains.
However, we were in a measure compensated for our loss
by a valuable addition to our number, soon after.
A little later, one of our members, whom for prudential
reasons we shall designate as Mr. A., incidentally came
across a man who was the owner of a very diminutive
donkey, which he was anxious to sell — otfering him at
what he represented as a great bargain. Mr. A., being
of a speculative turn of mind, and thinking -that he
knew a good thing when he saw it, after carefully diag-
nosing his small anatom}^ purchased the little equine
for a reasonable consideration. After a critical examina-
tion of the property I mentally decided, without prejudice,
that the expedition had lost but little by the exchange,
and, in behalf of the donkey, I will say that only on two'
or three occasions had we reason to be sorry that he joined
the expedition.
However, when it was afterwards seen what prodigious
burdens were loaded upon the docile little creature, and the
way he was yanked about by the bits — emphasized by an
occasional vigorous kick, I came to the conclusion that the
poor little beast had indeed fallen into rather hard lines.
Ah, me, many were the wordy combats I had with the pur-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 29
chaser on account of what 1 deemed cruelty to amimals —
in which, much to ray discomforture, I always came out
second best. I was on safe ground from a moral stand-
point, but as he was the owner of the property he had a
decided practical advantage. I was reminded one day dur-
ins: active hostilities, that the donkey was his and that he
felt at liberty to kick him whenever he was in a kicking
mood without asking leave of any one.
It is highly amusing now to recall these exciting pas-
sages on the journey over the plains — and all on account
of a donkey.
It is quite remarkable now how a trip over the plains,
with all its trying discomforts, brings to the surface the
most unlovely elements of a man's character, or a woman's
either for that matter.
Now don't let anyone be led into the belief that our
comrade was a monster of cruelty — far from it. On the
other hand, he vvas one of the kindest and best fellows in
the outfit. He merely wanted to demonstrate to the some-
times headstrong little creature, that he was master, and
felt compelled to resort to heroic methods to convince him
of the fact.
We had now arrived at our ostensible destination, O'Neill
settlement, on the western verge, while really, our journey
had but just begun. All the exposure, the hardships, and
dangers had yet to be encountered. As there no longer
seemed to be any great necessity for secrecy, our plans and
objects were prettv freely discussed with the few settlers
at this point, with the understanding, however, that no
information be given regarding our movements.
The people looked upon our undertaking as foolhardy in
the extreme, and used all their native eloquence in trying
to persuade me, at least, to change my mind and return
before it was too late. But all their well-meant advice
went for naught.
Did I ever feel tempted to turn back? No, not at this
30 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stage of our journey, but later on, when trouble and mis-
fortune seemed to gather darkly over us, when the pitiless
storms of winter overtook us, when sickness and death
entered our midst, and bore away one of our little band —
then, ah, yes, I would have hailed with glad thankfulness
any opportunity to return to the comforts and safety, of
home, but no such opportunity was likely to occur.
Turning back, after we had penetrated the hostile coun-
try, was altogether out of the question, even if such a
course had been permitted, as the exposure and danger
of a backward journey would have been as great, if not
even greater, than to advance, so the only way was to keep
together and press resolutely on to the end.
After a day spent in the O'Neill settlement for rest, our
journey westward was resumed, and I now recall, how
utterly horrified those kind people looked as our train
pulled out of camp.
They assured us that we were rushing headlong right
into the jaws of tleath, and to be candid I was much of the
same opinion, yet we were not disposed to profit by their
well-meant advice.
When about two days out from the last settlement, we
were met by a party of United States surveyors who had
been seut out to establish the Nebraska State line, but who,
on account of the Indians, were forced to return without
fully completing the work. They urged us not to proceed
on our journey, saying that the Sioux had on their war
paint and feathers, and in no mood to permit white men to
enter their domain. The expedition was not to be intimi-
dated, but, despite all warnings to the contrary, and fully
conscious of the perils ahead, proceeded along the valley
of the Elkhorn river, about on the line now occupied by
the N. W. & M. V. R. R. to a point about half way
between O'Neill and Long Pine, not far from old Fort
Niobrara, where our train diverged to the right, then trav-
eling in a northwesterly direction to the Niobrara river,
which was reached on the 31st dav of October.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
31
Three weeks had now elapsed since leaving camp on the
bank of the Mississippi river, yet only a very small part of
our journey had been accomplished.
The novelty, as well as the poetry of the trip, had by
this time entirely worn off, and had instead become pain-
fully realistic and prosaic. A few of our number would
have willingly turned their backs on the promised land and
returned had it been possible. Our stock had already
begun to show the effects of their Ions: march.
32 THE BLACK HILLS *, OR,
CHAPTER IV.
"CROSSING THE NIOBRARA."
At this point the expedition encountered the first real
diflSculty of the journey. It was found that ice had already
formed on both sides of the river, while in the middle of
the stream the current was very swift. The bed of the
channel was covered with quicksand and very treacherous,
hence any attempt to ford the river at that time seemed
like a hazardous undertaking. After a brief consultation
on the difficulties of the situation, it was decided to halt,
and remain for a few days to give the stock time to feed
and recuperate, or, until, by the melting of the ice on the
edge of the stream, the crossing might be safely effected.
We were astir at dawn on the following morning, and
found, much to our satisfaction, that the ice, the result of
a higher temperature, was fast losing its hold upon the
banks, and, piece by piece, floating swiftly down with the
current.
During: the halt several of our men started out to make a
reconnoissance of the country ahead of us as fur as the Fort
Randall road, on the Keya Paha, to ascertain the most
practicable route, and also to look for any signs of the
proximity of Indians, returning late with the report that no
Indians had been seen.
At 10 o'clock on the morning of the 2d of November,
preparations were completed for crossing the treacherous
stream, and by noon we were all landed safely on the
opposite side, albeit not without a hard struggle, as the
quicksands on the bed made it extremely difficult for the
cattle to keep their feet, the shifting sands causing some
of them to fall several times durins; the crossing.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 33
Let it be understood that henceforth on our journey, all
orders from headquarters were to he obeyed to the letter,
" without asking the reason why or daring to make reply."
By the wa}^ have my readers ever observed how prone
some men are, when vested with a " little brief authority,"
to become arbitrary and domineering? I have, and it is
enough to make the angels weep. Of course, now that we
were no longer under the protection of the law, the neces-
sity of having a leader became apparent. It also became
vitally important that certain regulations and rules of
discipline be laid down and rigidly enforced. All fully
realized that if every man was permitted to be a law unto
himself, it would result in confusion worse confounded.
From this point our march was continued north and
west, following for some distance the line of the Nebraska
State survey, thence in the same direction to the Keya
Paha river and the Fort Randall Government road.
While in camp at this point a small detachment of United
States cavalry, with an ambulance, was seen passing along
the road to the westward only a short distance away, but
notwithstanding the fact that our stock was scattered all
around, feeding in plain view, we were not discovered,
strangely enough. Their appearance naturally created no
little excitement in our midst for a short time. I remem-
ber we were all in mortal fear lest the irrepressible donkey
might betray us into the hands of the soldiers, it being his
custom to indulge in the pastime of braying lustily from
the time he was set free from his burden on reaching
camp, and all along through the silent watches of the
night, at short intervals until the dawn of the morning,
and, although he was Lilliputian as to size, his braying
was as loud, sonorous and prolonged, as the notes of a
fog horn on the orreat lakes. However, as good luck
would have it, he did not bray at that crisis, at least not
until the soldiers were well out of hearing, and had disap-
peared from sight beyond an adjacent hill, when we again
breathed freely.
3
34 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Forsooth, that little midget of a donkey was the source
of a great deal of trouble and inexpressible anxiety to us all
along the line through the hostile country on account of
that unfortunate habit of his. While we all felt it neces-
sary to walk around on tip-toe, so to speak, talk in sub-
dued whispers and extinguish our fires before dark, he
would bray away at his own sweet will without let or
hindrance. Finally we were forced, in sheer self-defense,
to resort to the expedient of putting a muzzle on him for
several nights during the most critical part of our journey;
of course, that had to be discontinued as he must eat if
he was expected to carry burdens, besides, we felt it was
not quite democratic to suppress freedom of speech.
We now began to realize that we were treading on for-
bidden ground — that we were without the pale of the law
and cut off from communication with the outside world —
that henceforth danger would menace us from every
quarter.
At any time we were liable to be met or overtaken by
roving bands of Indians, who we felt sure would look with
no favor upon our aggressive movements. On the other
hand, we were still more afraid of the authorities we had
secretly defied.
We were in constant expectation of seeing a troop of
cavalry come upon us from the rear, seize our train, burn
our wagons and supplies, march us back in disgrace, and
possibly place us in durance vile.
To guard against such a contingency, a rather curious
piece of strategy was resorted to. Every few miles our
train would move round several times in ever-increasing
circles, then off in another direction, zigzagging over the
ground in what I thought a very peculiar manner. At
first I was greatly surprised and somewhat alarmed at these
erratic movements, and really thought that the boys had
suddenly taken leave of their senses, but when it was
explained to me that it was done to lead possible pursuers
off our track I was greatly relieved and felt assured that
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 35
the heads of our men were still level. In fact, I regarded
the maneuvering as a wonderfully brilliant conception.
It now became necessary that some precautionary meas-
ures against probable Indian depredation should be adopted ;
therefore, a code of such rules and regulations as were
needed for our own personal safety and the protection of
our stock, was agreed upon, which were in substance as
follows: —
All camp duties must be completed, and fires extinguished
before dusk. No loud talk or other unnecessary noise shall
be allowed. All members of the expedition owning stock
shall be required to perform guard duty at night — three
to patrol the outskirts of the camp until midnight, then
three others to take their places until morning, or day-
light— no members shall be exempt from guard duty,
except in cases of sickness.
These requirements seemed comparatively light, at first,
but, as the train advanced into the Indian country, and the
storms came, and the weather grew colder and colder, the
thermometer going sometimes to twenty -five or thirty de-
grees below zero, with no fires to warm by, they became a
terrible hardship. Not a few murmurings were heard from
the men who had this hard duty to perform, and as the
days went by and no trouble came, a spirit of insubordina-
tion began to manifest itself — in truth, there was for a
time some talk of a mutiny, which was, however, averted
by the better judgment of the majority.
This standing night guard was especially a hardship on
those who were compelled to leave their warm beds, and
go out into the bitter cold at midnight to patrol their beats
until the morning. Their boots became as hard and un-
manageable as cast iron, with the extreme cold and frost,
and it was with the greatest difficulty they succeeded in
pulling them on. As they tugged, pulled, pounded, and
struggled with their refractory footwear, I could hear from
my comfortable quarters on the ground floor of my bed-
room, frequent and rather forcible ejaculations, which
36 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
sounded to me wonderfully like snatches of a prayer, or
quotations from the "Litany," as they floated in to me
through the folds of my tent. I suspected at the time, —
not without good valid grounds, however, that they were
not intended for either. I felt a great sympathy for the
boys, and often advised them to go to bed with their boots
on, but, although they received my suggestion with some
degree of tolerance, my advice was never followed.
BILL OF FARE ON THE PLAINS.
Perhaps some of my readers may like to know how we
fared during our long journey over the plains. Well,
until the settlements were left behind, we lived on the fat
of the land through which we passed, being able to procure
from the settlers along the route many articles which we
were after compelled to do entirely without.
From that time to the end of our journey, or rather
until we returned to civilization, the luxuries of milk, eggs,
vegetables, etc., could not, of course, be had for love or
money.
Our daily " bill of 'fare," which, in the absence of menu
cards, was stereotyped on memory's tablets, consisted of
the following articles, to wit: For breakfast, hot biscuit,
fried bacon, and black coffee ; for dinner, cold biscuit, cold
baked beans, and black coffee ; for supper, black coffee,
hot biscuit, and baked beans warmed over. Occasionally,
in lieu of hot biscuits, and for the sake of variety, we
would have what is termed in camp parlance, flapjacks.
The men did the cooking for the most part, I, the while,
seated on a log or an inverted water bucket, watching the
process through the smoke of the camp fire, which, for
some unexplainable reason, never ceased for a moment to
blow directly in my face, shift as I might from point to
point of the compass. I now recall how greatly I was im-
pressed with the dexterity and skill with which they
flopped over the flapjacks in the frying-pan. By some
trick of legerdemain, they would toss up the cake in the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 37
air, a short distance, where it would turn a partial somer-
sault, then unfailingly return to the pan the other side up.
After studying the modus operandi, for some time one day,
I asked permission to try my skill, which was readily
granted by the cook, who doubtless anticipated a failure.
I tossed up the cake as I had seem them do, but much to
my chagrin, the downcoming was wide of the mark. The
cake started from the pan all right, but instead of keeping
the perpendicular, as by the laws of gravitation it should
have done, it flew off, at a tangent, in a most tantalizing
manner, and fell to the ground several feet away from the
pan, much to the amusement of the bo3^s. I came to the
conclusion that tossing pancakes was not my forte.
To relieve the monotony of our daily fare, our tables (?)
were quite frequently provided with game of various kinds,
such as elk, deer, antelope, grouse, etc., large bands of
antelope being seen almost daily along the route over the
plains. Each outfit had their own hunters, who supplied,
for the most part, their respective messes, with game, but
Capt. Tom. Russell, who was the real " Nimrod " of the
party, and a crack shot, bagged much more game than he
needed, which surplus was distributed among the camps.
Besides being a good hunter and skillful marksman, Capt.
Tom Russell ever proved himself a brave and chivalrous
gentleman, during the long, trying journey, and somehow
I always felt safer when he was near.
There were several others in the party, too, who won the
reputation of being skilled hunters, and judging by the
marvelous stories told of the great number of deer, elk,
and other animals killed, which could not be brought into
camp, they deserved to stand at the head of the profession.
If there is anything in the wide world, more than another,
of which the average man feels proud, it is of the quantity
of game he captures.
Speaking of game brings to mind an experience, the very
remembrance of which always causes an uprising and revo-
lution in the region of the principal organ of digestion.
38 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Some of the boys, in their very commendable desire to pro-
vide the camp with game, one day captured an immense
elk, bringing in the choicest parts for distribution among
the different messes, and judging from the flavor and
texture of the flesh of the animal it must have been a
denizen of the Hills since the time of the great upheaval,
and to make a bad matter worse, our chef for the day
conceived the very reprehensible idea of cooking the meat
by a process called " smothering."
Having a deap-seated, dyed-in-the-wool antipathy to
smothered meats of all kinds, 1 employed all the force of
my native eloquence in trying to persuade him to adopt
some more civilized method of cooking, but no, he was
determined to smother it or not cook it at all, as by that
process, he said, all the flavor of the meat would be re-
tained, and he continued: "If my way doesn't suit you,
cook it yourself." Accordingly it was cooked his way
and brought to the table — the word table is here used
figuratively — and truth compels me to admit that it looked
very tempting, so, as I was abnormally hungry that night,
I conveyed to my mouth, with a zeal and alacrity worthy
of a better cause, an exceedingly generous morsel of the
meat ; but, oh, ye shades of my ancestors ! it was speedily
ejected and then and there I pronounced it the most vil-
lainous morsel I had ever tasted in all my checkered career,
and the cook was compelled to concur in that opinion.
"Ugh!" although more than two decades have passed
since then, I can taste it yet. The trouble, however, was
more in the elk than in the cooking.
All formality was thrown to the winds at meal time,
each one helping himself or herself with a liberality and
abandon, that was truly astonishing and, I might add,
alarming, in view of the fact that our larders were becom-
ing rapidly depleted, and that we were completely cut off
from our base of supplies. Our coffee was drank from tin
cups and our bacon and beans eaten from tin plates. Yes,
we had knives and forks — not silver, nor even silver-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 39
plated, yet we enjoyed our meals, for with appetites
whetted with much exercise and fresh air we were always
ravenously hungry, and could eat bacon and beans with
the keenest relish.
Strange as it now seems, while journeying over the
plains I was for the most time blessed, or cursed, with a
voracious, almost insatiable appetite — in fact, was always
hungry during my waking hours, and what is most remark-
able, none of the others were afflicted with the malady.
At the outset of the journey I had protested strongly
against the kind of food on which we were being regaled,
declaring that I never could be tempted to eat such abom-
inable stuff, and prophesying my own demise from starva-
tion within a month. Later, however, as I trudged along
on foot in the rear of the wagon, I would often, between
meals, stealthily approach the wagon, surreptitiously raise
the lid of the " grub " box and abstract therefrom a great
slice of cold bacon and a huge flapjack as large around as
the periphery of a man's hat — and a sombrero hat, at
that — and devour them without ever flinching or exhibit-
insf the slightest disijust.
IN THE HEART OF THE INDIAN COUNTRY.
As we advanced further into the Indian domain, Capt.
Russell and our leader Mr. Gordon began to bring back to
camp startling reports of fresh trails discovered, and moc-
casin tracks recently made, giving unmistakable evidence
that the dreaded savages were not far away. " Well, boys,
we are almost sure to have a moccasin dance to-night, and
we must be prepared to give the braves a fitting welcome,"
warned the captain. However, as we were not treated to
an exhibition of their terpsichorean skill, nor molested at
that time, the conclusion was reached, that these fresh
trails were made by the Indians returning from their sum-
mer hunt, to winter quarters at their various agencies.
All unconscious were they of the near proximity of the
invaders, who, though brave, were not insensible to the
40 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
perils which at the time surrounded them, and, figuratively
speaking, slept nightly, on their arms, to be ready for an
attack at the first warning cry from the faithful sentinels
on guard. We were in great danger of being discovered
at any moment, as we Avere crossing their trails every day
at this sttige of our journey — and frequently their camp
fires were found yet burning,
SICKNESS IN CAMP.
Soon after leaving the settlements, a number of our
little party, including myself, were stricken with a malady
which finally culminated in the death of one of our number,
and in view of the exposure and hardships, and manner of
living, it seemed a miracle that more did not succumb to
their dreadful effects. Baked beans, hot biscuits, and
alkali water, are not conducive to longevity.
About this time two or three other members of our
expedition began to show acute symptoms of home-sickness,
viz. : Charles Blackwell, the sickest on the list; Eaf.
Witcher,and, to confess the truth, I had had by this time
several spasms of the disease myself, although I had reso-
lutely refused to acknowledge it. Eaf, however, having a
good saddle horse, and therefore, in a sense, independent
of the train, determined to return to civilization at all
hazards — which he felt that he was at perfect liberty to do.
His arrangements were speedily made. The contents of
his grip, such as needles, thread, buttons, pins, etc., etc.,
were divided among his friends, the pins falling to my lot.
He bade us all " God speed " on our dangerous journey that
night, as he was to start on his homeward march before the
dawn of the following day. But, alas, the " best laid plans
o' mice and men aft sans; ajjlee." A council was called that
night (I was never admitted to their conferences), at which
a preamble and resolutions, something like the following,
were adopted : —
Whereas, we, in council assembled, have by sagacity and
shrewd management, succeeded in eluding the vigilance of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 41
the powers that be, up to date ; and whereas we believe that
any direct or indirect comraunication with the outside world
would be dangerous to the success, and prejudicial to the
interests of our expedition ; therefore, be it resolved, That
no member of the expedition shall be permitted to return
to civilization which we all voluntarily left; and, be it fur-
ther resolved. That any attempt to return shall be deemed
treasonable to the expedition, and that the offender shall
be punished, by being disarmed and placed under guard,
until the dangerous inclination subsides.
This seemed an arbitrary proceeding in a democratic
country like the United States, where every man is guar-
anteed the liberty of going or coming, according to the
bent of his own inclinations, provided in so doing he does
not interfere with the rights of others, but, it must not be
forgotten that we were at the time a law unto ourselves.
Eaf. made a vigorous protest against this high-handed
exercise of power. " Perhaps some of 3'ou think that I
am afraid of the Indians; but I want you all to understand
that I am no coward," said he, " I am just heartily sick of
this whole disagreeable business," he added. That no
braver fellow ever shouldered a Winchester is believed;
that he possessed a wonderful amount of pluck, and was
capable of great physical endurance is shown later. Im-
pelled by a spirit of true democracy, I ventured a plea for
individual personal liberty, and got snubbed for my pains.
The jiowers were inexorable. Eaf. became afterward rec-
onciled to the situation, — saying to me one day a little
later : " Well, this is a rather unpleasant experience, but, if
you are able to endure the fatigue, the exposure, and all
the other disagreeable things of a journey like this, surely
I ought not to complain." " I believe," he continued, " if
you were not here we should become totally demoralized."
Such an expression was, of course, very comforting to me,
as I had always felt myself a great incumbrance to the
expedition.
42 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
ALMOST A TRAGEDY WITHIN THE FOLD.
Shortly after crossing the South Fork of the White
river, an occurrence took phice which came very near
resulting in a terrible tragedy. According to the account
given by one who was an eye-witness of the unfortunate
affair, the trouble originated substantially as follows: —
John Gordon, the leader of our party, who, by some
curious and illogical process of reasoning had evolved the
strange idea that he owned the expedition in fee simple
and in consequence of this foolish delusion, exercised the
little brief authority conferred upon him with all the arro-
gance of an autocrat, on the one side, and Charles Cordeiro,
in whose veins bounded the hot blood of a long line of
Moorish ancestors, and who was stanch and true to the tra-
ditions of his race, on the other side, were the prime
factors in the difficulty.
The country through which we were traveling at the time
being broken and very rough, Mr. Gordon in his capacity
of leader had ordered some work done along the line of
march to render it more practicable for the passage of our
train.
Mr. Cordeiro being a little slow in obeying the mandates
of the august leader, was duly reprimanded for his want of
alacrity, and a few bitter invectives — more forcible than
euphonious — were hurled at the delinquent. Mr. Cordeiro
then, I believe, returned the compliment by inviting his
opponent to take a journey to the tropical domain presided
over by Pluto and his fair queen Proserpine.
Mr. Gordon, not willing to be outdone in politeness, then
applied to Mr. Cordeiro an epithet or cognomen not recog-
nized in the nomenclature of our race, which naturally
aroused the ire of the fiery Moor, who prided himself greatly
on his ancestry, to such a white heat that he quickly raised
his gun, leveled it directly at the heart of his traducer, and
fired, missing his mark. Just before firing, however, he
heard a cry of: "Hold, don't shoot I " and turning his
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 43
head suddenly to see whence the cry proceeded, he looked
right into the muzzle of a gun in the hands of Mr. Bishop,
one of Mr. Gordon's backers ; in so doing his aim became
unsteady, his gun deflected a little, hence his failure. In
endeavoring to extricate his revolver from his belt, after
his gun had missed, he stumbled and fell, when Mr. Gordon
rushed upon his fallen foe with drawn knife, and in his
uncontrollable rage would probably have finished his
victim then and there, had it not been for the prompt and
brave interference of Lyman Lamb, who opportunely
rushed upon the scene, seized the hand of the excited
leader and wrested the knife therefrom. By this time
others of our party had gathered around the scene or
conflict and insisted that the disgraceful exhibition be
brought to a speedy termination.
THE TWO VERSIONS.
Mr. Cordeiro claimed that Mr. Gordon was advancing
toward him with his hand upon his revolver, at the same
time saying: " Now, Charley, let's settle this matter right
here." Gordon, on the other hand, alleging that he did
not have his hand on his revolver, but simply said; " Now,
Charley, let's have an understanding." Which version is
correct is not known.
Mr. Gordon and his sympathizers were clamorous in their
demands that summary punishment be meted out to the
offender, but the level-headed and unprejudiced members,
who were largely in the majority, said no ; and they would
have prevented any violence at the risk of their lives.
Finally after a good deal of argument pro and con, the
belligerents consented to accept terms of peace, which were,
that Mr. Cordeiro be dispossessed of his arms for a period
of ten days, when they were to be restored in case of
peaceable behavior. A resolution was also passed, making
it a high crime for any member of the party to threaten
the life of any other member, under a heavy penalty, the
nature or extent of which is not now remembered, possi-
44 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
bly, the death penalty. The opposing forces then stacked
their arms, and sweet peace once more reigned in our
midst.
Which was considered the more guilty party? Well,
opinion among the members was pretty evenly divided.
How many of us would be willing to tamely accept
insult?
Human nature manifests itself the same out in the soli-
tude of the inhospitable prairie, as in more settled com-
munities, and even the most amiable of our race anywhere,
will scarcely submit to be trampled upon beyond a certain
point. And that point is where forbearance ceases to be a
virtue.
s^^-^f^'SPKil
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 45
CHAPTEli IV.
CROSSINQ THE BAD LANDS.
Long before reaching the White river, water became
very scare — long stretches of barren arid countrj' were
being traversed, without finding a drop, either for ourselves
or stock — snow having to be melted at times for both
purposes. Upon reaching the White river we were reduced
to the necessity of loading one of our wagons with blocks
of ice, cut from the almost solidly frozen stream, which
was melted from time to time as it became necessary for
our own use, or for watering our stock.
The water thus secured was in a high degree offensive
and nauseating, wholly unfit for man or beast, and not
until nearly famished with thirst could I be tempted to
drink a drop of the vile compound. How often in those
trying days did our minds wander back to an " old moss-
covered bucket, as it rose dripping from fondly remem-
bered wells." Oh, the boon of clear, sparkling, cold
water — more precious by far than the nectar of the gods.
Thus laden with the unpalatable conglomeration of chalk
and congealed water — and I know not what other ingre-
dients, which was to serve us for drink for the two or three
days following — we continued on our dreary march across
theMauvaises Terres, or Bad Lands, and language is inade-
quate to describe the utter desolation of the country
through which we passed. Long ranges of hills, cut up by
a perfect labryinth of ravines or gorges into all sorts of
fantastic shapes, into various architectural forms, resem-
bling fortresses, castles, and even small villages, confronted
us on every hand. There was but little vegetation, with
here and there a solitary pine tree to relieve the barrenness
46 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
in this noted paradise of the scientists. The only sign of
animal life to be seen while crossing this *' Inferno," was
a single mountain sheep that stood on the extreme summit
of one of the white chalky bluffs to our right, making a
wonderfully attractive picture as with head erect he sur-
veyed in apparent wonderment our slowly moving train,
doubtless the first spectacle of the kind he had ever
witnessed. Was he sole monarch of that entire God-for-
saken domain? At any rate I felt convinced that no
human being could long abide in such a place.
Numerous evidences that we were traveling over a
region that had at some time in the dead past been the
bed of an ocean were discovered; pieces of fossil bones,
and petrified shells of various kinds and large size, lay
scattered over the surface, some of which we gathered.
Of course, those things called up interesting reflections,
but as we were not at the time in search of the fossilized
remains of animals, large or small, vertebrate or inverte-
brate, that had existed in prehistoric times, nor very
scientifically inclined, we paid but little attention to those
wonderful deposits. I would like to ask, who would be
scientific, with feverished tongue and parched lips, and
visions of the scalping knife flourishing over their heads?
Besides we were nearly suffocated with the alkali dust
that rose in clouds at every step and every revolution of
the wheels of our train — notwithstanding it was almost
winter. The whole aspect of this region of desolation
suggested the thought, that a Heaven-directed curse had,
at some time, swept over the land, withering and consum-
ing everything in its path, both animate and inanimate. It
must be borne in mind that this region was seen at its
worst, being the time when all vegetation was cut down by
the frost. It is asserted that, in many portions of the Bad
Lands, the grasses grow quite luxuriantly, and frequently
springs of good water are found. We, however, failed to
find any such luxury as a spring of water (or water of any
kind that was fit for drink), and oh, the intolerable thirst!
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 47
I would have been willing to have given my kingdom (had
I one), not like Richard III. for a horse, but for a single
draught of the water that comes bubbling up from the
depths of some cold mountain spring.
A DKATH IN CAMP.
On the morning before our train reached the valley of
the Bad river (but I am at a loss to understand why it
is called a river, as there was not a drop of water to be
found within a radius of several miles of the valley), the
condition of our sick patient became so serious, that it was
suggested and urged by some of the more humane of the
party that the train halt for a few days, or until the suf-
fering man got better. I think none of us realized that he
would die. It was decided, however, that, as we were in
the very heart of the hostile country, delay would be danger-
ous and unjustifiable, in that the lives of the whole party
would be jeopardized — and, it was argued, that his bed
could be so adjusted, that by traveling slowly he would suffer
no great discomfort. Accordingly, one of the wagons was
emptied of its contents and a comfortable bed prepared
upon which the sick man was laid, nevermore to rise.
All that day I walked along on foot by the side of the
wagon, withthe lono;ao;onizinoi; wails of thedvino: man ringing
in my ears; every cry piercing my heart like a two-edged
sword, he begging to be shot, and thus relieved from his
terrible suffering. This thought no doubt was suggested to
his mind by the sight of a gun strapped to the canvas
above his head, which was very soon removed. About
one hour before arriving at our camping ground his cries
ceased, and we all fervently hoped he had fallen asleep.
Upon reaching camp and looking into the wagon it was
seen that he, indeed, was peacefully sleeping, the sleep
that knows no wakening. " Ah, pity 'tis, 'tis true," that
the poor pilgrim had fought the supreme battle alone, with
no tender hand to wipe away death's gathering teardrops,
or smooth his dying pillow — but — yes, did not the pitying
48 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
angels hover above and around hira, even 'neath that
coarse canvas?
Gloom, like a dark pall, hung over our little camp on
the dreary, lonely prairie that night. Death was in our
midst and every gust of wind that blew adown the valley
seemed laden with the wails and groans of our departed
companion.
I must record here that everything kinds hands could do,
with the medicines available, was done for his relief and
comfort.
Now, notwithstanding the extreme dangers of the situa-
tion, it became imperative that we camp for a day in order
that the last sad rites be [jcrformed for our dead comrade,
J. J. Williams, a skilled artisan, and a genius in many ways,
taking charge of the preparations for the burial.
A coffin of small hewn timber.s, strongly pinned together
with wooden pins, was constructed, in which the body was
decently laid, then a cover, also, of hewn timbers was
pinned down in like manner. Surely no prowling wolves
or coyotes could ever reach him in his impregnable bed!
A grave was then dug on a little grassy eminence over-
looking the lonely valley, then sadly and tenderly his
comrades lowered him into his final resting-place, there to
await the call of the last trumpet on resurrection morn.
A cross, also of small, smooth, hewn timber was erected
over his grave. On the ))edestal of the cross was written
the following inscription: " Died on the 27th of Novem-
ber, 1874, on his way to the Black Hills, Moses Aarons,
aged 32 years. ' May he rest in peace.' ''
No audible prayer was uttered; no funeral dirge was
sung ; each one stood reverently with bowed, uncovered
head, around the grave until the first earth fell upon his
rude cofiin, then turned sadly away. I would give much
to know whether that solitary grave has remained undis-
turbed, all the long years since then.
There is a tradition handed down to us, that Indians
will never disturb a grave surmounted by a cross, as they
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 49
have the greatest veneration for this symbol of Christ's
death, — hence the erection of the cross.
At 3 o'clock p. m. November 28th, the simple ceremo-
nies being over, our train moved on, leaving our late com-
panion in that desolate spot, far from home and friends,
where the summer's breeze and winter's blast would wail
a perpetual requiem athwart his lone grave.
It all seemed to me peculiarly sad at the time, and I could
but look back with wet eyes at the slowly receding cross,
bathed in the pale light of a late November sun, until it
was finally hidden from my view. Ah, how deeply I felt
impressed with the inscrutable mysteries of Providence !
But it was not for us to understand why a man, more or
less accustomed to the hardships of life, should be cut down
in all the glory and strength of his young manhood, while
a delicate woman, wholly unused to exposure, or any of
the privations and hardships incident to such a journey,
should be given strength to endure and overcome all the
diflSculties of that terrible march.
Truly " God's ways are mysterious and past finding
out."
AN AMUSING INCIDENT.
It has been said that there is but a step from the sublime
to the ridiculous ; so likewise there is but a step from the
pathetic to the ludicrous ; for, right upon the heels of the
sad and impressive scene we had just witnessed, followed
an incident which caused a good deal of amusement in our
midst, and illustrated how very near laughter and tears are
together. Mr. Blackwell had the good fortune of captur-
ing a beautiful silver gray fox, the skin of which is ac-
counted of great value, and after divesting the beauty of its
sheeny outer garment he left the carcass to be food for the
hungry coyotes that were very numerous on the plains.
However, the ravenous beasts came very near being
cheated out of the feast intended for them, and by one of
the hearty pioneers, too, who innocently supposing the flesh
4
50 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
good for food lingered behind the train for the purpose of
securing the coveted meat.
Shortly after reaching camp that night the donkey was
seen approaching in the reflected rays of the sinking sun
with the carcass of the fox standing bolt upright, stiff and
stark on his back (frozen solid), and a more ludicrous
spectacle could hardly be imagined. When the attention
of the boys was called to the approaching donkey and his
nude rider, with the owner marching gaily along beside
them, the comical looking proposition created no end of
merriment in the camp. It was perfectly irresistible.
When told that foxes were considered wholly unfit for
human food, the poor fellow very reluctantly gave it
back to the wolves. He did not see why foxes were not
quite as wholesome and palatable as the opossum, the
woodchuck, and the squirrel ; neither did I.
In marching across the Bad Lands we found a great
scarcity of both fuel and water, and had not the precaution
been taken of loading wood onto the wagons before leaving
the White river, the inevitable black coffee and hot bread
would have been for awhile unknown quantities.
The diflSculties of the march increased as the days went
by. The cattle became completely worn out from their
long journey over the rough, untraveled ground, without
being allowed suJ9Scient time to feed. Their hoofs became
worn to the quick, and it looked as if some of them would
have to be abandoned on the plains to die. To partially
relieve them, they were provided with leather shoes, divi-
ded to fit the hoofs, which for a time remedied the diflSculty,
this, however, affording only temporary relief to the poor,
emaciated creatures that were becoming day by day less
able to carry their rapidly diminishing loads.
Slowly and toilfully we crept along over the hard frozen
ground, with nothing to relieve the tiresome monotony of
the march, save the amusement afforded us by the daily
chases of the greyhounds after some kind of game. If
the game happened to be a band of antelope, they, with a
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 51
snort of defiance, would scamper away over the prairie
with almost lightning speed, those not especially singled out
by the hounds, turning now and then, with heads erect,
and nostrils distended, to view the situation, and make
sure that there was really sufficient cause for so much alarm
on their part ; and it was truly a beautiful sight. The
hounds, selecting their victims from the band, would (Dan
in the lead) scud away after them, in a perfect frenzy of ex-
citement, usually running them to some point beyond our
reach of vision, so that vve rarely knew the real denouement
of the exciting chase. If, on the other hand, the game
chanced to be a rabbit, the chase proved to be a very dis-
appointing and unsatisfactory affair to both Dan and Fan,
on account of its shortness, as they were soon run to cover.
The rabbit, bounding away in great leaps, covering a dis-
tance of twelve or fifteen feet at a jump, would suddenly
disappear in its burrow, not far away, the dogs then
returning, with a wofuliy crestfallen expression on their
intelligent faces, and their tails dangling down, in a truly
despondent manner. Nevertheless, we all felt exceedingly
grateful to them for even this temporary diversion along
the dreary road.
Let none of my readers be deluded into the belief that
there was anything, either very romantic or pleasant con-
nected with this part of our journey, unless shivering over
the dying embers of a camp fire, silently watching the day-
light gradually fade into darkness, until all the surround-
ing desolation was overspread with the sable wings of night,
and then creeping, benumbed with cold, into bed, be
romantic, or unless getting up at the early dawn, partaking
of a hastily prepared breakfast, none too tempting to the
appetite, and trudging off through the snow, day after day,
be considered a pleasure. If any one labors under such a
foolish delusion, let such individual take a journey under
like conditions and circumstances, and be disenchanted.
52
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
FIRST SIGHT OF THE BLACK HILLS.
We bad our first glimpse of the Black Hills about ten
o'clock a. m., December 31st. The Black Hills! The
Black Hills ! passed from lip to lip. A glad cry of relief
went forth at the sight, and every heart sang preans of joy
and thankfulness, that our destination was so nearly reached.
We could see plainly, away in the distance, to the left of
us, the long line of dark shadowy hills, dimly outlined
against the blue sky, and to the right, Bear Butte, standing
alone like a huge sentinel guarding the entrance to that
unknown land.
Of course, the Hills were yet along distance away, but
our goal was always after in sight to buoy up our spirits.
Several days before sighting the Hills some of our poor
cattle had become so reduced and footsore, that it seemed
impossible for them to proceed any farther with their
loads. It appeared as if some would be compelled to
abandon their wagons and stock of supplies, and make
their way into the Hills as best they could with such provis-
ions as they could carry, or adopt the alternative of going
into winter quarters on the bleak prairie. This terrible alter-
native, however, was happily averted. The owners of the bet-
ter conditioned stock acted the part of the good Samaritan,
by relieving the disabled cattle of a part of their loads, thus
increasing that of their own already overburdened stock.
Two or three hundred pounds, more or less, was loaded on
to the submissive donkey, and thus lightened we were all
able to proceed together on our journey greatly to our
relief.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 53
CHAPTER yr.
CROSSING THE CHEYENNE RIVER.
On the morning of December 3cl we found our train on the
crest of a high precipitous bluff, near the point where the
waters of Elk creek swell the current of the Cheyenne
river, and in something of a dilemma.
To descend the almost perpendicular front of the bluff
with the wagons looked impossible. Descend we must,
however, or take the alternative of turning back, and trav-
eling many miles in search of a more practicable point.
Finally, they hit upon the expedient of letting the wagons
down the steep incline by means of ropes, with which, for-
tunately, the party was well supplied. The cattle were
unhitched, and driven across, and down the vertical bluff
first, then the wagons, one by one, were lowered by means
of ropes to the valley below.
INDIANS DISCOVERED.
At this time occurred the most exciting episode of the
entire journey. As the last wagon was being lowered, some
one discovered moving objects a mile or so down the valley.
Field glasses being brought to bear revealed that the ani-
mated objects were nothing more nor less than about two
score of Indian ponies, feeding along the valley of the
river, — a convincing evidence that their owners were near
at hand. " Ah, then there was hurrying to and fro," but
•* no gathering tears, nor tremblings of distress." Oh, no,
just a firm compression of the lips, a flashing of the eye,
then a hurried examination of Winchesters, a buckling on
of cartridge belts, and the boys were ready for action at the
first sign of hostility on the part of the Indians. A fight
54 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
seemed inevitable, and there were no cowards in our little
band of men.
I was speedily and rather unceremoniously ushered into
a covered wagon out of sight — under protest, however,
for I am nothing if not curious, but there was some con-
solation in the thought that from my point of vantage,
everything that transpired could be plainly seen. The
reason assigned for such summary procedure was that the
presence of a woman might lead the Indians to suspect
that the party contemplated a longer stay within their
domain than would be agreeable to them.
Very soon two mounted braves came dashing up the
valley toward us, being very careful, however, not to come
within gunshot of our train ; then after a hasty survey of
the situation, with a shrill warwhoop, they rode back at full
speed to report the number of pale faces and their apparent
strength.
Orders were then given to cross the river and halt for
dinner, although an hour earlier than the usual time for our
noonday meal. Soon after going into camp, five mounted
Indians rode into our midst, and remained until the train
was ready to pull out. The Indians improved the time
by trying to barter away their ponies for ammunition and
guns ; and no doubt they would have given several
of their ponies for one of the Winchesters, with which our
party was equipped, and which they examined with a great
deal of interest. Of course we had neither guns nor ammu-
nition to barter away for ponies nor money.
These Indians seemed quite friendly, and to do them
justice, they were really quite respectable looking Indians,
as Indians go, but like all their race, the most inveterate of
beggars. They were fitted out with a goodly supply of
flour, bacon, sugar, and tobacco — yes, we had tobacco,
and pipes too.
From my safe retreat 'neath the canvas, through a con-
venient aperture, I had a " bird's-eye " view of the whole
procedure and to tell the truth, I felt much uneasiness on
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAK0TAH8. 55
seeing the liberality with which the boys were doling out
their precious stock of provisions to the graceless savages.
In truth, I could scarcely refrain from uttering a warning
cry from my hiding-place, from which I hoped soon to
emerge, but I remembered the ammunition episode in the
early part of the journey, and heroically closed my lips.
When the train received its marching orders the Indians,
laden with the generous contributions, returned to their
camp, a short distance below. These Indians, who proved
to be a band of Cheyennes returning from a summer hunt
to winter quarters — are reputed to be less warlike than
many of the other tribes, — at all events, they gave us no
farther trouble. Perhaps they stood in wholesome terror
of the formidable equipments of our expedition and
thought discretion the better part of valor. Had we en-
countered an equal number of the fierce and bloodthirsty
Sioux, doubtless I should have a far different story to
relate, or, perchance, there might not have been one left
to tell the tale. I am of the opinion, however, that our
plucky little band would have proved more than a match
for the sneaking savages, as they were on the constant
lookout, and always prepared for a surprise.
After this encounter, and, in view of a possible attempt
to run off the stock of the train, a double guard was placed
to patrol the outskirts of the camp, to watch the cattle, for
several nights thereafter, when, as we were not molested,
the force was reduced to its original number.
Two days after leaving the Cheyenne river, one of our
cattle gave up the struggle, unable to proceed a step far-
ther. The worn-out beast was unhitched from the wagon,
the yoke removed from his galled shoulders, and he was
turned out on the prairie to die, and the last we saw of the
poor bovine he was lying exhausted on the ground, but,
true to his instincts, chewing his " cud" vigorously.
As we approached the Hills, they began to assume a
more definite shape. Instead of the great banks of vapory
clouds as at first sight, there rose up, bold, rugged, abrupt
56 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
mountains, all along their eastern limits, and the striking
resemblance of Bear Butte to a huge bear, as outlined from
our point of view, became easily discernible, growing more
and more clearly outlined, as the train drew near.
Two days before reaching the point of entrance, it ap-
peared that in a few hours, at most, we could reach the
Hills, and I was greatly surprised when told that they
were yet forty miles away.. The next morning, they were
so very near that I felt an impulse to reach out my hand
and pluck a twig from the evergreens on the hillsides, —
so deceptive is distance, in the rare atmosphere of the Black
Hills, — especially to the unaccustomed eye. The delusion
is not near so great when one becomes accustomed to the
climate, the philosophy of which I do not understand.
At length on the 9th day of December our feet fir?t
pressed Black Hills' soil, at a point about four miles below
Sturgis, where we took dinner in the midst of a howl-
ing snowstorm. Here we found a well-defined wagon
road made by the heavy supply train, accompanying the
Custer expedition on its exit from the Hills in the preced-
ing August. On reaching the foothills at this point, to
guard against an ambushed foe it was deemed advisable to
press into service a day guard, an advance and rear guard,
and also two flank guards, whose duty it was to patrol the
ridges along each side of the moving train to apprise the
party of any threatened danger, and it was no easy duty.
We expected to find Indians galore in the Hills, skulking
behind the bushes and trees, and I now recall how I mag-
nified every bush and shrub along the top of the ridges,
into the tufted heads of so many redskins, peering over the
crests of the hills at our train. However, as no apparent
danger seemed to threaten us, and as no evidence of the
presence of Indians had been found, after two days the
extra guard was released from dut}'.
Our first camp within the limits of the Hills was made in
a canyon about two miles below where Piedmont now is,
on the night of December 9th, wherefrom the train
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 57
marched in a southerly direction up over the hill and down
into the Box Elder Valley at a point not far from the
mouth of Jim creek, then following up the Box Elder to
the north fork of that stream and over the divide to Little
Rapid creek, thence almost due south across Castle,
Slate, and Spring creeks to our destination, two and one-
half miles below Custer.
When we first struck the Custer wagon trail, we found
along the way, horseshoes, kernels of corn, and other
evidences that civilized people had but recently traveled
over the ground, which so reminded me of home, or, I
might as well confess the truth, I became for the first time
so utterly homesick that — what did I do? Well, 1 sought
the most convenient log, sat down npon it, and proceeded
to shed a torrent of unavailing tears — and they were no
crocodile tears, either. Would not some of my readers
have been equally weak, I wonder?
Through the mystic influence of associations, very small
things are, under circumstances, wonderfully potent in their
appeal to the human heart. So in this case even a few
grains of corn, scattered along the wild mountain trail, had
the power to burst open the flood-gates and let the current
of tears rush forth.
On the first night spent within the limits of the Hills,
we all had a pretty bad Indian scare, which caused some-
thing of a panic in the camp. Long after the camp fires
were extinguished and the guards posted on the outskirts,
the inmates of the camp were suddenly aroused by the low
warning cry of: " Boys, for God's sake, get up quick and
get your guns, the camp is surrounded by Indians ! We're
in for it this time, sure." The boys sprang up, pulled on
their cast iron boots, grabbed their guns and rushed forth
to meet the foe. I sat bolt upright in my lowly bed, and
listened — my heart beating a rapid tattoo, meanwhile —
but could hear nothing but the dismal howling of the hun-
gry timber wolves, which, it finally turned out, two of the
guards had magnified into the blood-curdling warwhoop of
58 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
the Sioux. A few of the boys had never heard an Indian
warwhoop; hence the mistake.
As our route was taken through some of the wildest por-
tions of the Hills, the journey through them proved a de-
lightful revelation — one continuous poem, replete with all
that is grand, sublime and beautiful. We found the Black
Hills a profound solitude, with peace, like a guardian angel,
reigning over the whole wide expanse, and without a single
vestige of civilization; and as we marched along under the
shadows of the lofty hills, I remember how greatly I was
impressed with their vastness, and our own comparative
insignificance and littleness. Up and down over the rough
divides our jaded cattle laboriously made their way. Down
steep and dangerous declivities, into dark canyons, where
the sun never shone save at midday, and where it seemed
so awfully hushed, as to be almost oppressive, we pursued
our course.
All along the route could be seen in places, on one hand,
huge rocks piled high one upon the other, with almost
mechanical regularity and precision, as if placed there by
the hand of a master workman — a great wall of natural
masonry; on the other the everlasting hills, covered with
majestic pines, that looked like stately sentinels guarding
the valleys below, towering far, far up above our heads ;
then anon low lying ranges of hills, clothed with dense for-
ests of pine, and away in the hazy distance, other ranges
rising up like great banks of clouds against the horizon.
For myself, 1 confess that I had then no knowledge of the
geography of the country we were traversing, but as I
remember the localities, it was on the divide between Rapid
and Spring creeks that we first saw Harney's Peak, tower-
ing up in rocky grandeur, to the left of our line of march.
A noticeable feature of the country through which we
passed, as we neared our objective point, was the many
beautiful glades, with their scattered bunches of pines and
hemlocks — a vivid picture of which I have in my mind as
they appeared to me then, with the bright winter's sun
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 59
shining down through their branches, fleckino; the brown
earth beneath, with patches of burnished gold — spots
where one might expect to see fairies dancing and skipping
about on moonlight nights. A tit abode it seemed for
our first parents, — in the days of their primeval inno-
cencj, — ere woman tempted (?) man to sin.
In passing through some of the deepest, darkest canyons
of the Hills, my imagination would run riot at times, and I
could not help glancing furtively from side to side of the
ravines to see whether there were any gnomes or hobgob-
lins peering out at us from between the crevices of the
great rocks, where these irrational creatures are supposed
to hold high carnival, and I confess that I always felt a
trifle relieved when we emerged from those uncanny
places.
Altogether the journey through the Hills was a rare treat
to one who had never before been among the mountains.
The entire landscape was one well calculated to impress the
beholder with awe, and incline him, if aught earthly could,
to fall prostrate at the footstool of the Great Unseen behind
all its wonderful majesty and beauty ; and to make the scene
still more impressive, an awful silence — a silence which
only primeval forests know — hung over all. No sound was
to be heard amid the solitude, save our own voices, which
sounded strange and unnatural; the rumbling of the
wagons over the rough trail, and the cracking of the drivers'
whips, which reverberated from hill to hill and through the
corridors of the woods in the most romantic manner. By
the way, the drivers seemed to delight in cracking their
whips and hallooing to the cattle, simply, I suspected, to
hear the delightfully romantic effect.
Lyman Lamb was one of the Jehus of the party, and he
showed himself quite as expert in that capacity as he has
since in keeping county records. He did not, however,
like the scriptural Jehu, ride in a chariot, drawn by fiery
steeds, but on the contrary, drove his own cattle, walking
by their side from the start to the finish, and the wonder-
60 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ful skill and dexterity with which he wielded his prodigious
whip, and cracked its long lash, would have made a pro-
fessional *' whacker " green with envy, and excited my
most profound and lasting admiration.
In all the vicissitudes of that long, trying journey Mr.
Lamb proved himself one of Nature's noblemen — fearless
and intrepid, and one upon whom it is always safe to rely.
Our march through the Hills was necessarily slow,
owing to the weak condition of the cattle, it taking just
two weeks from the time we entered the Hills to reach
French creek. At last, after a hard journey full of bitter
experiences, we arrived at our objective point, about two
and one-half miles below Custer, on December 23d, 1874,
having been seventy-eight days en route.
As soon as the train came to a halt, some of the boys
rushed to the wagons for shovels and gold pans, and hast-
ened to Hnd the place where the miners of Custer's expedi-
tion claimed to have found the gold. Soon they were seen
returning to camp waving their hats aloft in a very excited
manner, myself joining them, by frantically waving my
much traveled and weather-beaten hood in genuine sympa-
thy. Eureka! They had found particles of gold in the
bottom of each gold pan, and my readers may be assured
that there was great rejoicing in our camp on French creek
that winter's night.
Our poor emaciated cattle were unyoked for the last
time, and turned out to subsist as best they could for the
winter. Our tents were pitched, suppers prepared and eaten
with the usual informality, and we then sat around our
blazing camplires in the heart of the wilderness, not singing
songs and rehearsing tales, as of yore, when we yet reposed
under the folds of the American flag, but talking of and
thinking out the difiicult problem that confronted us;
some, perchance, indulging in waking dreams of the piles
of gold that were almost within their grasp.
Ah, if we could only have lifted the curtain, and taken a
glance into the future, at the long years of weary waiting, our
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 61
bright hopes would have given phice to dark despair. In
mercy, " Heaven from all creatures hides the Book of Fate."
I often wonder if any of the little band of pioneers, who
sat dreaming around that camp fire on French creek that
night, have ever yet realized their hopes, or are they still
chasing the illusive phantom, that somehow always man-
ages to elude their grasp. I am quite clear on one point,
and that is, that the author of this story has been reaching
out for more than two decades after that delusive " will-o'-
the-wisp," and is still employed in the same fruitless
occupation.
Now that our journey was ended for a few months at
least, our camp arrangements must be of a more permanent
character, so we pitched our tents on the hill slope north
of French creek near a copious spring and proceeded to
make our surroundings as comfortable as was possible
under the circumstances and limitations.
A wearied and worn, tattered and torn combination we
were, to be sure, on reaching French creek on that 23d day
of December, 1874. How could it be otherwise? I was
painfully aware that I, at least, was in a very sorry
plight. My shoes, especially, were in a sadly demoralized
condition — a thin apology for shoes, although the second
pair since leaving the haunts of man. What did I do for
shoes? Why, I made a pair of moccasins of a deer skin
that had been tanned and prepared by one of the boys for
the purpose, and very comfortable moccasins they were,
too. Did I walk much of the way on the journey? Oh,
yes, all of the way after leaving the settlements, except dur-
ing a week of sickness, and a few short rides on the back
of the little burro.
Now some may regard such a feat as something quite
wonderful, but there was really nothing remarkable about
it, when it is remembered that the distance traveled was
only from ten to fifteen miles a day, and the gait exceed-
ingly slow — a mere pleasure walk. Anyhow, who would
ride in a heavily loaded wagon drawn by worn-out, footsore
62 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
cattle? Not I, indeed. Of course the ground traversed
was very rough, and sometimes covered with snow, hence
the deplorable state of my footwear.
Had it not been for certain precautions taken by us
pedestrians on our way'into the Hills, some would have
been barefoot in all likelihood, long before reaching the
end of the journey.
When there was snow on the ground we '* packed " our
feet to protect them against the loose snow, as well as the
cold. Now I venture to assert that some of my readers
do not even know what packing the feet means. I didn't
know before I started to the Black Hills, and took a regular
course in the art. Well, it means simply to bind a gunny-
sack — now don't pretend not to know what a gunnysack
is — snugly around the feet and ankles, then bind it on
with a stout cord to keep it in place. There is nothing
equal to it as a protection to the feet, and I regard the
man or woman who originated the idea, as a genius and a
benefactor of the pioneers. Try it when you cross the
plains on foot in the winter.
The next day, December 24th, was wash day, and day of
general repairs in camp, and a formidable undertaking it
was, as may be easily imagined. We had tubs, wash-
boards, and plenty of soap in the outfit, but we were
obliged to take turns in washing as there were not quite
enough tubs to go round. When the garments were
washed, they were spread on the bushes to dry, and when
dry were ready to wear, as they were never ironed, every-
thing being done after the most primitive fashion. It is
needless to say that the boys did their own washing and
mending. Lest some might think that we had ignored the
laws of hygiene while en route, I want to state that frequent
short halts had been made for washing and bathing pur-
poses, notwithstanding the danger, for although branded
as outlaws, we were not barbarians.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 63
CHRISTMAS-TIDE IN BLACK HILLS IN 1874.
Yule-tide had come, and it was hardly to be expected
that the children's patron saint would think of running the
gauntlet of the Indians to visit our obscure camp among
the wilds, so, inspired by the spirit of " Peace on earth and
good will towards men," and feeling that something should
be done to keep the festive season green in our memories,
I bethought me of a Christmas tree, without the genial
saint. There were plenty of evergreens that could easily
vie with the time-honored holly and mistletoe on every
side, and beautiful Christmas trees near at hand in the
valleys, but what was the good of a tree with nothing to
put on it — no books, no toys, no confections, nothing
but picks, shovels, gold pans, and an ox chain for orna-
mentation, and these would hardly be appropriate. The
fondly remembered Christmas stocking was thought of, but
here the same difficulty occurred. The whole category of
supplies from baked beans down failed to furnish anything
suitable for a Christmas gift, and so my great mental
struggle to make the " eve " seem like Christmas went for
naught.
Christmas morn dawned upon us, and at no time since
our journey began did we realize so keenly how far re-
moved, both by distance and environments, we were from
home and all that it implies. Completely cut off from the
whole Christian world with its precious privileges ; no
Merry Christmas greeting from the loved ones away back
towards the rising sun; no sweet chimes of Christmas bells
fell upon our ears; no grand organ notes, pealing forth
the glad Hosannas, reached us among the mountain fast-
nesses ; no church privileges — but, wait — was not the
whole visible expanse a church, grander by far than any
cathedral ever built by human hands? Was there not a
powerful sermon in the beautiful quartz that lay scattered
about on the hillsides, and a great moral lesson in every
64 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
tree and bush that grew upon their lofty crests? Were not
the mournful cadences of the wind, as it whispered through
the pine branches above our tents, more touching than the
sweetest song; and the awful silence that brooded over
each hill, valley, and beautiful glade, more potent to lift
the thoughts Heavenward, than the grandest choral music
ever chanted by human voices? These were the thoughts
that rose up in my mind, as I sat musing at the opening
of my tent, on that Christmas day, nearly a quarter of a
century ago.
What of our material comfort? Did we have a Christmas
dinner? Alas, no. Roast turkey with cranberry sauce,
plum puddings, and mince pies were not much in evidence
on our tables that day — nothing but our coarse evcry-day
fare, and no doubt the thoughts of every one of our little
band went back over the dreary intervening waste, to the
good cheer of the dear old homes.
The day after Christmas the storm clouds gathered, and
soon snow began to fall, — coming down in great feathery
flakes until the whole landscape was covered to a depth of
two or more feet, on a dead level, and our tents were al-
most literally snowed under. Then the wind rose and
blew a terridc gale — driving the loose snow before it, and
piling it in great banks in the valley below, and the cold
became intense.
Being on the southern slope of the hill we did not feel
the cold much, but the cattle suffered terribly, both from
cold and hunger, especially the latter, as they could not
reach the cured grasses, — so abundant in the snow-
covered vallev. At niofht great fires were built of pitch
pine logs, piled high, which threw out light and heat in
every direction. The poor cattle, attracted by the grateful
warmth, would come into camp and stand in a long line on
each side of the fire, until somewhat thawed out, when they
would wander back, one by one, into the darkness and
fierce storm.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
65
Was it reason or iastinct that guided those dumb brutes
in, systematically arranging themselves in rows, near the
fire, and then leaving their comfortable positions without
any compulsion, just as if they felt themselves intruders.
In less than a week the great storm was over and the
weather became as warm and balmy as a June day.
6Q THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER yil.
BUILDING THE STOCKADE.
The time had now come when we must look the situation
squarely in the face. We were in the Black Hills, but how
long we would be permitted to remain was a problem which
the future alone could solve. But whether our stay was to
be long or short, the exigencies of the situ:ition demanded
that safer and more comfortable quarters be at once pro-
vided. The storms of midwinter were upon us, and
danger, for ausfht we knew, might be even then lurking
behind each bush and tree. Therefore, to guard against
exposure and possible danger, the plan for building a place
of defense was matured and speedily executed. Skillful
and willing hands were soon at work, and despite the fact
that the work began in the midst of the worst snowstorm
of the winter, in about two weeks the formidable structure,
commonly known as the Gordon stockade, was completed
and ready for occupancy.
For the benefit of those who have never seen that early
stronghold, I will give a description of the structure, as I
remember it after the lapse of nearly a quarter of a cen-
tury, and, in view of the memorable winter spent within its
gloomy walls, I am not likely to forget a single feature,
from the top to the base, or from the great wooden gate to
the opposite wall.
The walls of the stockade were built of heavy pine
timber, thirteen feet in length, set close together in an
upright position, three feet in the ground, forming an
inclosure eighty feet square. Along the line of contact,
between the timbers, other smaller timber were pinned
with heavy wooden pins. At each of the four corners of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. (i7
this iuclosure were bastions, standing out six feet from the
main structure, — each provided with four embrasures, and
alono; the two sides and one end, at intervals of about eight
feet, were portholes. A large double gate twelve feet
wide, built of hewn timber strongly riveted together with
wooden pins, completed the structure, this gate being the
only entrance to that impregnable fortress of the Hills.
It has been pronounced by those who are good judges of
defensive works the strongest fortification of the kind ever
built in the West. Capt. Mix, in his description of our
stronghold to Gen. Bradley, on his return with the pris-
oners to Fort Laramie said: " Why, if they had resisted I
should have been obliged to return to the fort for artillery
to dislodge them." At any rate, once within its strong
walls we felt that we could defy the Indians as long as our
ammunition lasted or until we were starved out. But
would our ammunition last; would our provisions hold
out until relief came? That was the problem.
Within the walls of the stockade were built seven log
cabins, three on each side and one opposite the gate, with
a space of about six feet intervening between them and the
walls, designed for the sharpshooters at the portholes, and
the bastions, leaving a large area in the center of the in-
closure. In one of these log cabins the author spent the
never to be forgotten w^inter of 1874-5. It is much to be
regretted that ruthless hands were permitted to destroy
that great early landmark of the Black Hills, which
might have been preserved as a memorial to the pluck and
perseverance of the men who built it. It is said that not
a single stick is left to mark the spot where it stood.
LIFE IN THE STOCKADE.
The seven cabins within the walls of the stockade, in
which we were doomed to drag out the weary monotonous
days of winter, were more or less pretentious, according to
the taste and skill of the builders.
The first cabin on the right was conspicuous because of
68
THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
the peculiar construction of the roof, which consisted of
small hewn timbers with a groove chiseled out in the center
of each to carry off the water. As a substitute for shino^les
it was an ingenious contrivance. This same cabin had a
THE GORDON STOCKADE — PHOTOGRAPHED IN 187G.
floor of hewn logs, a door of hand-sawed boards, a chim-
ney, a fire-place, and an opening for a window, but no
sash. This model cabin was built by what was known on
our journey as the " Logan " outfit — each wagon with all
its accessories and appurtenances, being called, while en
route, an " ontfit." Well, this Logan aggregation consisted
of a half-dozen fine muscular fellows from the pineries of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 69
Wisconsin, who were not afraid of work, and not very
much afraid of Indians. Some of them, as their names
indicated, were brave Scotsmen, whose ancestors, at least,
came f rae the hills o' bonnie Scotland.
The second on the right belonged to the " Whitney " pro-
position, the personnel of which was R. Whitney, D. Aken,
John Boyle, and Harney Cooper, the young artist who
charmed us all by his glorious voice while journeying over
the plains.
The third on the same side, which compared favorably with
the tirst, though of a somewhat different style of architect-
ure, was constructed by Lyman Lamb, T. H. Russell, and
Angus McDonald, who, poor fellow, was crushed to death
by the falling of a tree, a few years ago, near Deadwood.
This cabin was planned by Lyman Lamb, who also drew
the plan for the great stockade.
The cabin opposite the gate, a well-built and substantial
structure, was occupied by John Gordon, the leader of the
expedition, H. Bishop, the owner of the aforementioned
greyhounds, Chas. Long, and N. Warren, dubbed "Uncle
Nute," and the best-natured man in the expedition. " Uncle
Nute," by the way, was a master of the art of song. His
voice could be heard blithely and joyously singing from
early morn to dewy eve without cessation, in fact he sang
always except when asleep, and his constant refrain was
somethino; about beins; "Down in the coal mines under-
neath the ground, and digging dusty diamonds all the
season round."
The next cabin to the right in the circuit, and the most
unpretentious of the seven, was our house, a low square
structure without gables, consisting of one room which
served the purposes of kitchen, dining room, bed room,
and parlor. Like the others it was built of logs, not hewn
but round as nature formed them, with not a single mark
of ax or adz to mar their symmetry. The roof which slanted
at an angle of about forty-two and a half degrees was
constructed of poles covered over with alternate layers of
70 THE BLACK HILLS *, OR,
hemlock boughs and mother earth. I think the poles were
of the quaking asp variety, at least I thought so, when the
wintry winds swept through the great open gate. It had a
chimney, too, a sort of a nondescript affair, and a wide fire-
place with a large flat stone in front of it, and several
stones of lesser magnitude, arrayed with an eye to artistic
effect, in a circle on the outside, otherwise our cabin was
guiltless of floor or carpet. There was an opening front-
ing the area for a door, over which was hung a large coffee
sack for a portiere, and a small square opening just opposite
for a window, over which was tacked a piece of cloth bear-
ing in large red letters the following legend, " XXX Extra
Superfine," which completed the main part of the edifice.
Moreover, ourhouse had a wing — a right wing, whose sole
occupant was Chas. Cordeiro, the Moor. Now, although
this annex was, architecturally si>eaking, a part and parcel
of the main building, there was no communication between
the two parts, save a small square opening cut through the
log partition, for the mutual accommodation of the dwellers
on each side, and through which reciprocal courtesies were
daily interchanged. For instance, among our scanty sup-
ply of cooking utensils was a small iron kettle — perhaps
the only one in the expedition, which our near neighbor
took occasion to borrow, whenever he had a pot of beans,
or a leg of venison to cook, — on the other hand, he had a
sharp two-edged axe, which he always kept whetted to the
keenness of a razor, to which we were ever made welcome,
on demand. As these articles were being passed back and
forth through this convenient aperture, our neighbor, when
looking through from his little dingy room with his super-
naturally intense black eyes, made a very suggestive picture,
to me suggestive of a prisoner peering through the barred
windows of a prison cell.
The next cabin on the left of the entrance was occupied
by Eaf Witcher and Henry Thomas, and the last in the
circuit belonged to Chas. Blackwell and Thos. McLaren,
our former copartners, — the firm having dissolved by
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 71
mutual consent, just before moving into tlie stockade.
The inside furnishingrs of these cabins were of the crudest
kind, all being cut or hewn from the pine trees hard by.
Not a very attractive home, my readers may think. No,
but the best that could be provided with the facilities at
hand.
Now, all this may be very dry and uninteresting to the
reader, and may not mean much, as viewed through the
mist of over twenty intervening years, but it meant a great
deal to those early pioneers — it meant untold hardships
and deprivation of the comforts of life, and in giving these
small details, it has been the desire of the author to present
a true picture of the comfortless homes that afforded them
shelter and place of refuge at that trying time, as by these
glimpses into the past, something is shown of how, by
brave endurance and self-sacrifice, the way was made clear
for the civilization which followed.
A CONFLAGRATION IN CAMP.
That life in camp on French creek, pending the building
of the stockade, was not wholly barren of exciting incidents,
will be shown by the following somewhat dramatic events,
in which myself and the donkey enacted the leading parts.
Among our camping equipments was a gorgeous red,
white and blue striped tent, — a thing of beauty and of
pride, patterned after the stripes of our national flag, rep-
resentino^ the thirteen original colonies now embraced in
our Union of States, and in which the various members of
our firm were mutually interested.
Well, one day when alone in camp, while indulging in
my usual post-prandial nap, with my head uneasily reclin-
ing on a huge roll of bedding within the tent, I felt a sort
of dreamy sensation of abnormal warmth creeping over me,
which grew hot, and still hotter, until the superlative of
heat was reached, when I suddenly awoke to find myself
almost completely enveloped in flame and smoke.
At a glance I saw that the entire front of the tent was in
72 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
a blaze, which was spreading above and around me with
lightning rapidity. Springing up, I hastily tore the op-
posite end of the tent free from its fastenings and scram-
bled out, dragging, by the strength of sheer desperation,
the roll of bedding after me.
Just at this critical moment, when I had given up the
tent as doomed to utter destruction, one of the men, oppor-
tunely, came into camp for some mechanical tool, and,
seeing my dilemma, he quickly severed the guy ropes, thus
letting the burning tent to the ground, when, by some vig-
orous tramping, the fire was soon smothered, but leaving
only a few smoke-blackened fragments of the once beauti-
ful canvas, that had protected us from the wind and rain,
snow and sleet, for so many dreary nights in crossing the
plains. Ah ! I could have wept.
When the stockade builders returned from their work
that night, I lost no time in revealing to those affected,
the story of our irreparable loss — hiying much stress upon
the lamentable fact that we were then left without even a
shelter over our devoted heads, and told them how it hap-
pened. No, I didn't tell them that I was asleep when the
cause of the disaster originated. I explained to them how
a small stream of flame had stolen out from the camp fire
near by, and crept slowly and stealthily tentward, until it
communicated with the canvas, and —
'* Well, where were you all the time, while the fire was
cr-e-e-ping up to the tent?" interrupted one of the boys,
sarcastically.
" Where was I? Why, I was in the tent, of course." 1
answered, guiltily.
"And you didn't see the fire a-coming, eh?" he re-
turned.
" Well, no, not until it was too late," I meekly replied.
"That's rather strange," he said, with just a hint of
suspicion in his tone.
He then plainly intimated that, in his opinion, the catas-
trophe was altogether the result of criminal carelessness on
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS, 73
my part. I silently stood accused, with not a word to
offer in iny own defense.
" Well, now, Tom, what's the use of crying over spilled
milk? " chimed in another of the boys.
Now that the ordeal was over, impelled by a spirit of
conciliation, I brought forth the charred remnants and laid
them, as a peace offering, at their feet, with the suggestion
that they apportion them, per capita, among them.
" Great Scott," said Tom, " what can we do with these
rags? You might as well throw them in the tire and let
them burn like the balance."
" Oh no, I won't do that," I said. "You nia}^ need
thera to patch your pants with when the flour sacks
are all gone."
"That's what," said another.
So the gaudy pieces were put away and portions of them
were finally used for the above mentioned purpose.
THE DONKEY GETS A GOOD SQUARE MEAL.
While the stockade was in process of construction, I was,
of necessity, left the sole guardian of the camp properties,
supplies, etc., and therefore felt morally responsible for
their safety.
I was not alone, however ; my only companion was the
donkey, who spent his time for the most part within the
precincts of the camp, prowling around and gazing with
pleading eyes and ears erect in at the opening of each
tent — probably to spy out the lay of the land. That don-
key of ours, since his advent into the Black Hills, had sub-
sisted chiefly on mountain scenery and the choice tid-bits
of bacon rinds and gunny sacks that had been thrown out
by the campers.
Well, one day he took it into his long, wise head to treat
himself for once to a good square meal, so, protruding his
head and shoulders into one of the tents he seized about a
half side of bacon, which was carefully wrapped in a piece
of canvas, then, backing out with his ill-gotten booty, pro-
74 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ceeded to masticate it at his leisure. I think he knew
beforehand just where to find it.
Observing the whole daring procedure from a distance,
and keenly realizing that I would be called upon to give an
account of my stewardship, I immediately rushed to the
rescue of the pillaged property. With that end in view, I
approached the head of the little gourmand and was about to
grasp the canvas that hung suspended from his mouth
when he turned his heels upon me like a flash, and kicked
as only that branch of the equine race can kick. But, skill-
fully dodging his vicious heels I escaped the contact.
Several like attempts to rescue the property were made
with similar results.
Having an unbounded regard for the heels of the mule
race, and deeming '* prudence the better part of valor," I
then stood at a respectful distance and watched the bacon,
canvas and all, disappearing down the burro's throat.
It was with feelings of no little trepidation that I ap-
proached the owners of the pillaged tent that night and in-
formed them of what had happened during their absence,
and of my heroic eff'ort to save their property. After tell-
ing them how the donkey bad eaten the entire proposition,
one of them queried: "Did he fry the bacon, or eat it
raw?" "No," I replied. " He didn't wait to cooi? it;
he seemed to prefer it raw." To my great relief the boys
regarded the whole affair as exceedingly comical, but for
the life of me I couldn't see where the fun came in.
The 16th of January found us all settled in our respective
quarters within the walla of the stockade. Every night at
sundown the huge gate was closed and securely barred,
after which there was no egress. Yet, even within those
formidable walls, with the gate strongly barred, I did not
feel that we were any too safe. Having no sentinels posted
out, how easy for Indians to stealthily approach the stock-
ade in the night or early morning, while its unguarded
inmates were profoundly sleeping, scale its walls and mas-
sacre every one. Visions of such a possibility often came
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 75
up before me, while I lay awake at night, listening to the
midnight howlinors of the wolves and the occasional scream
of the wild cat, which sounded so like the human voice,
that I sometimes felt absolutely sure that the savages must
be right upon ns. I could almost sec the sheen of their
brandishing scalping knives in the dark. However, such
visions were soon banished — giving way to a more healthy
condition of mind.
Now that we were safely entrenched and domiciled for the
present, what of the future? Everything for which the
expedition was undertaken had now been accomplished.
The long hard journey with its varied vicissitudes had been
made, and gold, the prime object, had been found. What
next was to be done? Evidently it would not do to remain
inactive in our safe retreat until our store of provisions
was exhausted, or until our ammunition was all gone.
Plainly, communication must be opened with the outside
world at all hazards, and at once, before the Indians should
start on the warpath, thirsting lor vengeance on the tres-
passers on their rightful domain, and before the govern-
ment should take extreme measures to prevent reinforce-
ments from reaching us.
MESSENGERS CARRY OUT THE GLAD TIDINGS.
We all felt satisfied that as soon as the people were as-
sured of our success, immigration would at once begin, but
to accomplish this some one must undertake the dangerous
journey back to civilization. Who would have the hardi-
hood to undertake such a ride over the bleak prairie in the
depth of winter?
No difficulty was experienced on that score, as Gordon
and Witcher were not only willing, but anxious to bear out
the glad tidings, and both having good saddle horses, they
were of course conceded the honor.
As the intelligence to be sent out must be accompanied
by actual gold as an indisputable voucher, much had to
be done in the way of making preparations for the journey.
76 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
A rude rocker was constructed out of one of the wagon
boxes, when several days were spent in rocking out gold
from the bed of French creek, resulting in the production
of a sufficient quantity of the glittering scales to prove its
existence in paying quantities, beyond dispute.
Many letters, too, had to be written to our respective
friends, for not since the day we left the settlements had a
single word been communicated to those left behind. Be-
sides, on the day we left camp on the banks of the " Big
Muddy," the irrepressible Charlie Collins, who was present
to bid the expedition Godspeed on its dangerous journey,
exacted a ))romise from several members of the party,
myself among them, to send back, at the first opportunity,
letters for publication in the Sioux City Times, of which he
was then editor, and as fortunately we were supplied with
material the promise was faithfully kept.
On the 6th day of February, 1875, a pack horse was
loaded with the necessary supplies, blankets, ammunition,
etc., when the two plucky men, John Gordon and Eaf
Witcher, mounted their horses and started away from the
stockade with the gold, and numerous messages to friends,
on their winter's journey, across the untraveled, snow-cov-
ered plains ; civilization, home, and friends before, and an
uncertain fate behind for Sioux City. Many doubts were
expressed as they rode away and disappeared in the timber
as to the probability of their ever reaching their destination.
For twenty-three days they braved the storms and keen
cutting winds of the prairie, subsisting on poorly prepared
food, frequently being unable to procure the necessary
fuel to boil a cup of coffee. For twenty-three nights they
wrapped their blankets about them and laid down on the
frozen ground or in a hole excavated in a snow drift, and
during much of that time their horses had to paw away the
snow to reach the grass which afforded them but a bare
sustenance. Poor brutes !
The route taken by them was in a southeasterly direction
to the Niobrara river, thence along the valley of that stream
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE OAIvOTAHS.
77
EAF WITCHER,
Taken March 1, 1875, on his return from the Black Hills
to Sioux City.
78 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
to Yankton, thence down the Missouri river to Sioux City.
Three days before reaching Yankton their supplies became
so nearly exhausted that they were reduced to quarter
rations, and the horses had almost reached the point of
starvation. When about a day's journey distant from
Yankton, Mr. Gordon's horse gave out and he was
obliged to halt a day to let him recuperate. Meanwhile
Eaf, who it is alleged gave Mr. Gordon the slip, was
ridino- awav on his more powerful American horse post-
haste to Sioux City, reaching that point twenty-four hours
in advance of his comrade. When Gordon arrived next
day with the gold Eaf was having a gala time indeed. He
was being feted and banqueted, and I don't know but that
he was carried around the streets upon the shoulders of
some of its citizens. As to that tradition is silent. Be
that as it may, when poor Mr. Gordon arrived on the
scene, the enthusiasm of the people had reached its zenith.
The people of Sioux City naturally felt much gratified
and elated at the success of the first expedition, as it was
at that post it had equipped only a few months before.
When the letters, with glaring headlines, appeared in the
daily papers on the following morning, there was a perfect
furore of the wildest excitement, which however was not
long confined to Sioux City alone. The story soon spread
to the remotest bounds of our country, and became the al-
most universal topic of conversation.
From that time government lines were drawn closer
around the Sioux domain, and hundreds soon began to
gather along the borders, seeking for some loophole to
slip through; many succeeded, some failed, as we know.
When our messengers left the stockade the mutual
understanding was, that they would immediately proceed to
organize another expedition, steal a march on the govern-
ment, and return to our relief with reinforcements and
additional supplies.
Now some may come to the conclusion, from this scheme,
that the pioneers of 1874 were regular fillibusters; but no,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 79
they were neither fillibusters, freebooters, nor pirates, but
peaceable, law-abiding citizens of the United States — how-
ever, '* with keen eyes to the main chance."
Mr. Gordon, in accordance with the plan formulated,
lost no time in organizing another expedition, which man-
aged somehow to elude the vigilance of the government,
and get pretty well on its way to the Hdls, when it was in-
tercepted by a military force, the wagons and supplies
burned, and Gordon, the leader, placed under military
surveillance.
The twenty-two men, now left in the stockade, spent the
long, weary weeks of waiting, according to their various
inclinations ; some rocked gold on French creek, when the
weather was favorable, others spent their time in prospect-
ing and hunting during the day, and — well, I hardly know
how they did spent the long winter evenings. It is
thought, however, that some of them played whist and the old-
fashioned game of euchre, or an occasional friendly game of
draw poker for pastime, as such terms as "Honors are
easy," '' I pass," etc., could frequently be heard from the
neighboring cabins. Why, what else could they do, in the
absence of newspapers and books, to occupy the mind?
By the way, I did manage to smuggle in "Milton's
Paradise Lost," and a funny romance, entitled "The
English Orphans," on leaving civilization, which were
read, re-read and read again, until every word from Alpha
to Omega was printed in ever-living characters upon the
tablets of my memory. So imbued did I become with the
spirit and sentiment of those works, that I felt at times, as
if paradise was indeed lost to me, — never to be regained,
while at other times I felt myself growing very much like
"Sal. Furbish" in the English Orphans. Didn't I enjoy
life in the stockade? Oh, that mine enemy might be con-
demned to spend a winter under like circumstances and
conditions, — but no, I could not wish that even my
deadliest foe be so cruelly punished.
Imagine yourself imprisoned within the gloomy walls of
80 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
an inclosure, and more closely confined within the still
gloomier walls of a cell-like cabin, with no work for mind
or hand to do, and with an uncertain fate hanging over your
head, and you may be able to form a faint conception of
the misery of life in the old stockade during the memo-
rable winter of 1874-5. The very remembrance causes
ague chills to creep rapidly along the spinal column.
Sooner by far would I take my chances with the Sioux
Indians out on the open plain. This gloomy picture of life
in the stockade, let it be understood, its but a reflex of my
own individual experience, and not of my companions, who
perhaps took a more optimistic view of the situation. Yet,
it is certain that time hung heavily on the hands of every
one within the walls of the stockade.
When vigilance began to relax and the warm days of
early spring came I frequently ventured out to wander
about on the sunny slopes of the adjacent hills, incidentally
looking for gold which I expected to find scattered about
quite plentifully along the hillsides and in the gulches.
No, I didn't find any worth speaking of. I was pre-emi-
nently a tender-foot then, since, however, I have had numer-
ous object lessons, which have made me a wiser if not
better woman. In taking these long rambles I was very
careful not to lose sight of the stockade, as despite its
gloom it afforded a haven of safety in case of danger.
These pleasant excursions were brought, by. an amusing
incident, to an abrupt termination. One day while seated
on a large boulder of quartz on the top of a low hill drink-
ing the wonderful beauty of the surrounding landscape,
my eyes chanced to glance down the valley below, when
they became riveted by a sort of fascination on a clump of
bushes, among which I detected a slight unnatural move-
ment. While looking, lo, the bushes became violently
agitated, swaying back and forth in a very suspicious
manner as if an Indian was lurking among its branches.
I hesitated no longer. Over boulders and jagged rocks
I went down the slope, but 1 have never been quite able to
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 81
understand just how I readied the bottom of that hill. All
I know is that I got there and didn't stand on the order of
my going. Along up the valley I ran with the fleetness of
a professional sprinter, through the bushes, over fallen
trees, clearing every obstruction with a bound. I fairly
flew, fear adding speed to my wings, until reaching within
a short distance of the stockade, when I was forced to
make a slight detour to avoid the bullets that were coming
directly towards me on my line of flight. The boys were
shooting at a mark blazed on a tree a little below the stock-
ade, where I stopped to look back to see how many Indians
were following on my trail, and I must confess to a feel-
ing of no little disappointment that I was not being pur-
sued by a band of Sioux, in war paint. Such a splendid
chance to become the heroine of a thrilling adventure and
a hair-breadth escape was lost.
I arrived at the stockade breathless and excited, and
when questioned as to the cause of my perturbation, I an-
swered, evasively, "Oh, nothing much. It was probably
nothing more than a mountain lion, or wild cat, or per-
chance an innocent rabbit." It is needless to say that from
that time I kept religiously behind the entrenchments.
TWO MORE LEAVE THE STOCKADE.
Shortly after Messrs. Gordon and Witcher left for Sioux
City with the gold, two more of our number began to
devise ways and means for returning to civilization. To
accomplish their purpose, they by their combined ingen-
uity, planned a small vehicle to transport their supplies,
blankets, and other belongings to Fort Laramie. The
affair was to be a kind of dual combination of part cart and
part sled, and really showed a good deal of foresight on
the part of the designers, who shrewdly reasoned that
while there was deep snow in the hills there might be
none outside. No, they were not intending to draw the
very peculiar rig themselves, although if their going out had
hinged upon that alternative, they would not for a moment
6
82 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
have hesitated to hitch themselves? to the car, but fortune
smiled upon the two homesick tender feet for once, at least.
Blackwell and McLaren were providentially the owners of
a single ox — free from all incumbrance, that was to be used
as the motor power, and for which a kind of harness was
made of skins and such other material as was available.
This one emaciated ox was all that was left to the poor
fellows of their original investment in the expedition.
On the morning of the 14th day of Februar}^ their
unique contrivance being complete, the vehicle was loaded
with provisions, blankets, etc., the motive power attached,
and the fragile-looking outfit was ready to pull out on its
terribly perilous journey to Fort Laramie.
It would indeed be difficult to imagine anything more
grotesquely ludicrous than the spectacle they presented,
as they marched away from the stockade. Of course, we
all felt sad to see them go, but we could not help laughing
at the little outfit as it started away from the stockade.
The poor, bony, half-starved ox trigged out in his motley
harness, hitched to the Liliputian vehicle — not much
larger than a good-sized hand sled, piled up high with its
load of supplies, blankets, etc., and the wheels of the con-
trivance strapped on top, venturing out in the winter, on a
journey of two hundred miles through a hostile country,
was a sight — the very pathos of which made it irresistibly
funny. It scarcely seemed possible that they would ever
reach Fort Laramie alive.
As night approached, the wrecked craft returned. Some-
thing had given out or weakened, obliging them to put
back to the stockade for repairs. The next morning they
started away again, and the poor fellows were seen no
more.
Blackwell and McLaren never returned to the Hills, for,
according to their own declaration, they had had enough of
them to last the balance of their lives, and would have
turned back long before reaching the Hills, had it been
possible. Mr. Blackwell especially was homesick from
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 83
the day be left the last settlement. A brave fellow
he was, nevertheless. " Well," he said one day, while
en route, " this is the worst pill I was ever compelled to
swallow," and as I have swallowed a good many doses of
the same kind of pills, I am prepared to vouch for the
probable correctness of his assertion.
The infection spread, for about three weeks later, or on
the 6th of March, four others of our already small band
marched away from the stockade for Fort Laramie, viz.,
Newton Warren (happy Uncle Nute), D. McDonald (Red
Dan), J. J. Williams, and Henry Thomas, — but, ah, I for-
got, there were five of them — the donkey left the Black
Hills at the same time for good, and never after did his
musical notes echo through the picturesque hills of the
great Golconda. Two of the deserters, having saddle
horses, rode away with blankets strapped onto their saddles
behind, and guns across the pommels in front ; another had
the donkey, but tradition is silent as to whether he rode
him out or packed him with his belongings and walked by
his side, — that must be left to conjecture. J. J. Williams,
with gun across his shoulder, and pack on his back, walked
out, and through the deep snow of the trackless forest it was
no easy task, methinks. Our force was now reduced to
eighteen men.
Six weeks had elapsed since our messengers had left us,
and grave doubts began to arise in our minds as to the
probability of reinforcements ever reaching us. Perhaps
by this time the strong arm of the government had inter-
vened to prevent any farther trespass on the Sioux
domain. Still we looked anxiously from day to day for
some tidings from the men, who had carried the proof of
our safety and success to the world.
Our situation, nothwithstanding the strength of our
position, was neither an enviable, nor a pleasant one;
realizing, as we did, that the Indians would soon be leav-
ing (if they had not already left), the agencies on their
mission of revenge. In view of this, well knowing the
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
modes of the iDclians, every precaution was taken to guard
against their depredations, or an attack. All combustible
substances, such as fragments of pine, brush, etc., were
gathered into piles and burned; even the grass for some
distance around the stockade was burned to the roots.
Every one familiar with the methods of the Indians knows,
that burning the enemy out is their sure resort, when all
other means fail.
During the month of March, 1875, the pioneers of 1874
surveyed and platted the first town site in the Black Hills,
on French creek, in that little dimple in the hills where
stood the stockade. By the aid of a picket, rope, and a
small pocket compass, the site was laid out into blocks and
streets and christened Harney City in honor of the great
Indian fighter, Gen. Harney. Log.. foundations were laid
on the corner lots of the principal streets by the fortunate
ones who drew them. It is now amusing to recall how
anxious I was to draw a desirable or central corner lot,
in what was confidently prophesied was destined to
become the metropolis of the coming golden empire.
April was finally ushered in with one of the blinding
snow storms so common in Dakota during that month.
The wind blew fierce and cold, piling up the snow in drifts
all throuf^h the nooks and crannies of the Hills, and scatter-
ino- our poor cattle in every direction — anywhere to find
shelter from the driving storm.
THE STOCKADE PARTY TAKEN OUT OF THE HILLS BY
THE MILITARY.
One evening during this storm, just as the great gate
was about to be closed and barred for the night, four men,
unheralded and unbidden, rode boldly right into our
stronghold, causing no little consternation and excitement
in our usually quiet little community. At first sight they
were thought to be the vanguard of our expected reinforce-
ments, but upon a second look it was seen that two of our
visitors were in military uniform, while, in the other two
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 85
we recognized the familiar faces of our quondam comrades,
J. J. Williams and Dan McDonald, who, as emissaries o/
Uncle Sam, had also donned soldier's clothes. The blue
coats and brass buttons betrayed their mission. It devel-
oped then that the four men who had left the stockade on
the 6th of March, had after a hard journey of eight days
reached Fort Laramie in safety, though not without en-
countering Indians. As the little party were crossing the
head of Red Canyon, they were confronted by two well-
armed mounted braves riding directly towards them. Na-
turally the boys were slightly alarmed at the prospect of
an encounter with the two burly savages, but they immedi-
ately leveled their guns at the approaching Indians, who
by frantic gesticulations made it known that they were not
hostile, but " good Injuns." They also encountered a
large band of Indians and squaws with papooses, on the
Cheyenne river, who made no hostile demonstrations.
After a few days for rest and recuperation two of the
party proceeded on their journey homeward, while the
other two were detained to guide the soldiers back to the
quarters of the pioneers in the Hills. And that is how we
were at last found.
The four mounted men who rode, unannounced, into our
midst on the evening of the 4th of April, proved to be J.
J. Williams, Dan McDonald, and two lieutenants in the Sec-
ond United States Cavalry, detailed from their camp twelve
miles below, bearing orders to our party to make imme-
diate preparations for leaving the Black Hills. The entire
force sent to remove the trespassers, consisted of a troop
of cavalry, about twenty-five pack mules and a large train
of wagons, to carry rations and forage, and an ambulance
for the use of the female trespasser, all under the com-
mand of Capt. Mix, of the Second United States Cavalry.
We were proclaimed prisoners, although no formal
arrests were made, and given just twenty-four hours to
hunt our scattered stock and make other needful prepara-
tions for leaving the stockade. Instructions were given,
86
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
that nothing but the necessary articles of clothing, blank-
ets, etc., and enough provisions to serve until reaching
Fort Laramie, could be transported.
The next day was a busy one — a day spent in preparing
to give up all that we had risked our lives to attain. Some
started out in search of the stock, that had been scattered
to the four winds by the storm, while others were putting"
together such few articles as could be taken, and caching
or hiding such property as must be left behind. All
mining implements, mechanics' tools, chains, etc., had to
be left.
The writer of this story cached a trunk containing all
her worldly goods, and although she has been searching
diligently for more than two decades, her eyes have never
yet been gladdened by a sight of the trunk, or a single
article of its contents.
The limited time allowed us for preparations had ex-
pired. The search for the stock had proved, in part,
fruitless — only about half having been found; our goods
and chattels had been cached and our little bundles tied
up, and we were ready to be marched out of the land of
promise, to that from which we came.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 87
CHAPTER YIII.
RIDING OUT OF THE BLACK HILLS ON A GOVERNMENT MULE.
I woiulcr if any of my fair readers ever rode a govern-
ment mule, or any kind of a mule for that matter, for a
mule is a mule the world over. If not, they, of course,
know nothing of the exhilaration, the real keen enjoyment
such a ride affords, and have lost much of earth's pleasures.
I have had that delectable experience, and it furnished me
more genuine amusement to the square inch than I ever
had either before or since, and this is how it happened.
The troops ordered in to take us out of the Black Hills, sup-
posing it impracticable to reach the stockade through the
rugged hills with their wagons, went into camp, about
twelve miles below, thus making it necessary to send in
pack mules to carry out our belongings.
About 9.30 o'clock on the morning of the sixth of April,
a troop of cavalry with their high stepping, glossy steeds,
and about twenty-five pack mules, put in their appearance
at the stockade, and, as everything was in readiness, it
took but a short time to load and strap our goods on to the
pack saddles. That being accomplished, it developed that
there was one more mule than was needed for packing pur-
poses. Now, to this extra pack mule — whether by pre-
vious design or otherwise is a matter for conjecture — was
assigned the honor ( ?) of carrying out the first white
woman to enter the Black Hills.
The boys, or most of them, having no saddle horses, of
course had to walk to the camp below, so started a little
in advance driving the few cattle that were found before
them; but — what was 1 to do?
Just as I was revolving this vital question in my mind, one
88 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
of the men having charjre of the mules — or a muleteer —
appeared at the door of our cabin, where I stood in a some-
what uncertain state of mind, and inquired: " Well, mum,
what are you a goin' to do? Kide or walk? " Fully appre-
ciating his generosity in thus allowing me the choice of two
alternatives, I told him with some asperity, that I had walked
into the Black Hills, and, if necessary, could easily walk
out, but, I added, "as the snow is pretty deep, I would
prefer to ride if there is a way provided."
'* Did you ever ride much on horseback?" he asked. I
very modestly informed him that I was a skilled horse-
woman, and was perfectly at home on the saddle, as I had
ridden more or less from childhood up.
'* Oh, well, I think we can fix it all right. The command
is ready to march, and we had better be a startin'," he said.
Thus urged I donned my hood and wraps and followed
him out through the wide gate, with a throb in my heart,
and a tear in each eye — I felt it was for the last time —
and there, before my astonished vision, stood the prancing,
dancing steed I had been expecting to ride, transformed into
an old, scarred mule, several hands higher than any mule I
had ever seen before; with head bowed down with the
weight of accumulated years, and a long apprenticeship in
military service, and the full modicum of " cheek " of the
traditional government mule, and, to cap the climax, a
masculine saddle on his back. I stood aghast.
" Jupiter, Olympus," I cried, " you don't expect me to
ride that beast to camp, a distance of twelve miles, do
you?" " I guess you'll have to, or walk," he answered.
After making a careful mental estimate of the distance
from the saddle to the ground, 1 concluded it would be an
extremely hazardous undertaking, so I pleaded; " No, 1
can't do it. If I should be thrown, it would be almost
certain death." "All right, you're the doctor," he
answered nochalantly.
Now, if I had been modeled after the pattern of the "new
woman," or if I had been a little less conservative, thedif-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS,
89
ficulty, in part, might have been overcome. However, I
finally concluded to accept the situation, so asked the
muleteer to tighten up the saddle girth a little and I would
try it. Did you ever know of a woman venturing on a
saddle, without first making sure that the girth was safely
tight?
My attendant signified his willingness to humor my
whim, so unbuckling the strap, he gave it a vigorous pull,
when the mule, in physical protest against the proceedings,
besan to increase, by inflation and expansion, his already
abnormal circumference ; and, in further protest, uttered
a series of such alarming groans or grunts, at the same
lime looking back with appealing eyes, moist with unshed
tears," as much as to say, ''Please, don't," that I was
moved to relent, thinking that the poor brute was in the
last throes of dissolution. So I told the man to leave the
girth as it was, and I would take my chances.
At that moment, the inspiring bugle notes gave the
sit^nal" mount," when the whole command simultaneously
vaulted into their saddles — that is, all but the muleteer
and I. Another bugle signal of " Forward, march ! " was
sounded, and the column marched on in double file. I
was struck at the time by the beauty and perfection of
ihe discipline maintained in the regular army.
" Now, just put your foot in my hand, and I'll help you
onto the mule," said my attendant. I did as directed,
and with an agile spring that would have done credit to an
acrobat, I was landed safely into the saddle.
" There you are," said he, and sure enough, there I
was, perched on the back of a " government mule." He
placed my foot in the stirrup, carefully arranged my some-
what abbreviated riding skirt, then after one long, lingering
look at the old stockade and its environments, to get a last
impression of the place where I had spent so many weary,
anxious days and nights, we started off down the valley at
a tolerably brisk pace, soon overtaking and joining the
calvacade which was a little in advance. Just at this junc-
90 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
ture we came to a point where French creek crossed the
gulch, and do you suppose that mule could be induced by
any peaceable measures to wade the stream? No, not a
bit of it, I urged and coaxed and patted and thrust my
heel vigorously into his side (I had no spurs), but without-
avail. Forced to resort to heroic methods, I threatened a
while (no, I didn't punctuate my threats with any very
strong adjectives) and finally dealt him a sudden blow with
my whip (a willow rod cut from the bushes bordering
French creek), whereupon the mule suddenly reared, and
made a flying leap across, landing on the opposite side on
all fours. Of course I was greatly astonished at such an
eccentric feat on the part of the mule — especially so, as I
had considered him old enough to be more dignified, but
was not in the least disconcerted. I managed somehow to
maintain my equilibrium on the saddle, notwithstanding
the fact that I was taken completely off my guard.
'• Be careful now and hold fast to the saddle or he will
throw you in to the middle of next week," cried my escort
in apparent alarm. So as I had no ambition to be precip-
itated into the future in such an unceremonious man-
ner, I did afterward hold on to the saddle with such a
grip that no natural forces — not even an earthquake, could
have unseated me.
At each of the crossings of that crooked, meandering
stream, the mule resolutely refused to go into the water,
always leaping across after his own fashion. However,
after several crossings were successfully made I had
learned to adapt myself to the motions of the mule, and
had gained so much confidence in my own skill that I soon
loosened my vice-like grip on the saddle altogether.
At one of the crossings, while I was fiercely struggling to
obtain the mastery over the stubborn proclivities of the
mule, a dashing young lieutenant suddenly wheeled out of
his position on the flank of the column, rode back, and
politely off'ered to exchange mounts with me. What im-
pelled him to such an act of gallantry was, and is, largely
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 91
conjectural ; however, as I had a pretty well-grounded sus-
picion that some of the troopers, both privates and officers,
were having a good deal of amusement at our expense —
that is, at mine and the mule's — I positively but courte-
ously declined the proffer. Did they select that mule for
my use with " malice prepense?" or did they not? That
was the question. With this suspicion uppermost in my
mind I assured him that I was well satisfied with my mount
and was getting along splendidly. I was determined to
ride that mule to camp despite his eccentricities, or die in
the attempt; besides, to be candid, I would not have dared
to venture on the back of the splendid, high-mettled animal
rode by the dashing, debonnair young lieutenant.
After about two hours' ride we came in sight of the mil-
itary camp dotted over with numerous white tents, and the
blue-coated soldiers, who had already reached camp, mov-
ing about under the scattered trees. A little removed from
the others was noticed a smaller group of tents, the head-
quarters of Capt. Mix and his staff — a distinction always
observable in military camps, I have learned since then.
Anxious to avoid making any further display of equestri-
enneship, I decided to dismount at this point and walk into
camp, a distance of a quarter of a mile or such a matter, so
I slid down from the saddle — as gracefully as could be
expected from such a lofty position, but instead of stand-
ing on my feet as I naturally expected to do, I fell to the
ground in a helpless heap, benumbed in every limb, utterly
paralyzed. The muleteer, who had kept faithfully at my
side since leaving the stockade, quickly dismounting, very
compassionately offered to assist me to my feet, but I per-
emptorily ordered him away and told him to hasten with
all possible speed into camp, with my mule, and tell the
boys that a woman was lying helpless, perchance dying,
back on the trail, desiring immediate spiritual consolation.
The obedient muleteer had not proceded far towards camp,
however, before a peculiar sensation, like the puncture of
a million needles, began to creep over me, and when upon
92 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
essaying to rise, I found that I could stand on my feet ; the
blood went coursing through my cramped members and
soon I was briskly wending my way into camp, none the
worse for my twelve miles' ride on a government mule.
On my arrival at camp I was escorted to a comfortable
tent, that had been provided for my accommodation,
where I was directly visited by Capt. Mix, whom I had
not before seen. Very soon the captain's aid appeared at
the entrance and handed in a sumptuous lunch — a lunch
that would have tempted the appetite of the most dainty
epicure — with the compliments of Capt. Mix, and to
which my readers may be assured ample justice was done.
Enjoy it? Well, rather; I had become very tired of bacon
and beans straight.
Here we were told by Capt. Mix that we had been in
far greater peril than we dreamed of, for, he said, on
reaching a high point about fifty miles from the Hills, with
his command, the signal fires kindled by the Indians who
had already surrounded the Hills could plainly be seen,
and also that forced marches had been ordered that our
imperiled little party might be reached before being mas-
sacred by the incensed savages. It was found on reaching
camp, that an ambulance had been provided to convey the
female prisoner from the Black Hills, much to said pris-
oner's gratification.
The next day, April 7th, at the customary bugle signal,
the march was resumed towards Foit Laramie, nothing of
special importance occurring until nearing Red Cloud
Agency. When a few miles distant from that point
the train was met by a Frenchman, named Baptiste,
bearing a message from the agent in charge at the post,
warning Capt. Mix of the hostile attitude of the Indians,
who were, he said, making threats of saguinary vengeance
on the invaders as soon as they showed their faces at the
agency, and advising the captain to conceal all the Black
Hillers under the canvas of the wagons of the train.
Capt. Mix told the boys of the fate in store for them, and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 03
advised them all to get to cover as quickly as possible;
the boys, however, resented the proposition with much
scorn. They were not made of the kind of material im-
plied in such a course. Not only did they not hide under
the canvas covers, but on reaching the agency they cir-
culated freely among the Indians who were gathered there
in large number awaiting their arrival — of course their
guns were well in band, and no doubt their very boldness
disarmed the savages — but instead of proceeding to wreak
vengeance on the real culprits, they seemed to vent their
entire displeasure on the only innocent member of the
party. The ambulance in which I was seated was imme-
diately surrrounded by about a dozen of the most diabolical
looking specimens of the human form it had ever been mv
misfortune to see. They surveyed me with such malio-Qaut
curiosity from every possible point of view, expressing their
entire disapproval of meby numerous suggestivegestures and
grunts, that I really became greatly alarmed for mv own
pei'sonal safety, and ordered the curtains of the ambulance
closed that I might be hidden from their vindictive gaze.
Even then their hideous faces could be seen peerino- in at
me through every nperture, causing a sensation to creep
over me, as if pierced by a dozen sharp-pointed arrows.
I don't know why, but those mistaken and misguided
savages seemed to regard me as the arch-trespasser of the
party — the very head and front of the whole offending;
and I feel sure that had it not been for the presence
of the troops, I would have been speedily disposed of then
and there, and my scalp would have graced the belt of one of
those inhuman savages. We were afterward informed that
the military force had some difficulty in preventing an out-
break, so wrought up were the Indians over such a wanton
breach of their treaty rights.
Our stay at the agency was not a prolonged one, and
greatly was I relieved when the welcome bugle notes
sounded the signal to " march !"
Although prisoners, we were treated with the utmost
94 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
consideration by both oflScers and men on our march to
Fort Laramie. Every day a carefully prepared lunch was
sent to our tent with the compliments of the gallant cap-
tain. Whether this was done as a mere act of common
courtesy, or prompted by a feeling of commiseration for
my truly forlorn appearance, and my "lean and hungry
look " was, and is still, an open question. I am afraid the
latter is the correct interpretation thereof.
REACH FORT LARAMIE.
In about ten days from the time we left camp in the Hills,
we came in sight of Fort Laramie, and the American flag
floatino' proudly above the government buildings, the sight
of which caused the fires of patriotism, that had been
smouldering within us for the six months previous, to burn
up with renewed intensity, for, be it understood, we were
all patriotic Americans to the core, and, like the prodigal
son, were returning to the paternal arms of Uncle Sam.
When about two miles from the fort, a gay cavalcade of
ladies, on horseback, were seen approaching the train, pre-
sumablv to meet their returning husbands and friends, and
incidentally to get a glimpse of the prisoners, whom they
regarded with excusable curiosity.
They brought the alarming information that the Platte
River was swollen nearly out of its banks, and so rapidly
rising, that in less than an hour it would be impossible to
ford the stream. There was no bridge at that time. The
train pushed on with all possible speed, soon reaching the
banks of the turbulent Platte. On the surface of the
stream, logs, roots of trees, and even some whole trees,
roots and branches, and all manner of debris went rushing
alono" with the dreadful swish of the current towards the
Missouri. There was no time to be lost, so the horses with
their heavy wagons plunged in, heading up stream and
almost floating on the bosom of the powerful current, and
reached the opposite shore in safety.
The ladies on horseback, the troop of cavalry, and the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 95
pack mules, including my friend, forged ttirough the angry
waters; the ladies with skirts sweeping the stream, accom-
plishing the daring undertaking first.
We were then marched to the fort where we were
detained two days, enjoying its hospitality, when the party
was released, without parole, and given full transportation
to Cheyenne, Wyoming, where we arrived with neither flour
in our sacks, nor scrip in our purses.
Here the members of the first expedition to penetrate the
Black Hills separated, the author and family remaining in
Cheyenne during the summer of 1875 awaiting develop-
ments in the Sioux problem ; the rest of the party, after a
short delay, boarding a train for Sioux City, the point from
which the expedition had embarked in early October of the
preceding year, where they were received right royally by
its citizens.
When our returning expedition had reached to a distance
of about ten miles from Cheyenne, it was met by that
stanch friend and abettor of the enterprise, Charlie Collins,
who had traveled all the way from Sioux City to bid the
pioneers welcome home.
Yes, we were back again within th. pale of civilization
and the law, after an absence of nearly seven months.
Thus ended the memorable journey in and out of the
Black Hills, with its dangers and hardships, of the first
expedition, the members of which gained nothing save a
very dearly-bought experience.
The way had been opened, however, for the mad rush
which speedily followed — in fact, it had already begun ere
we reached Fort Laramie, for, as was afterward learned, a
party of men were hanging about Red Cloud Agency, wait-
ing to slip into the Hills as soon as the troops having the
prisoners in charge had fairly passed out of sight.
Some of the members of the first expedition returned to
the Hills during the summer of 1875, others in the early
spring of 1876 — to whom reference will be made further
on — while a few never returned, preferring not to face the
96 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
perils and hardships of a second journey to the new Eldo-
rado. Not all the gold of Ophir, nor the wealth of India,
would have tempted some of those few to repeat their first
experience.
TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE OF TROOPS SENT AFTER OUR
EXPEDITION.
It was then learned that as soon as it became known to
the military authorities that an expedition had really been
organized iind was already on its way to the Black Hills,
troops were immediately ordered out from Fort Kobinson,
and other military posts, to overtake or intercept the expedi-
tion and bring it back to suffer the penalty for disregard
of government orders. The expedition was not to be
found, however, by any of the parties sent out, as the
sequel has shown, owing, in part, no doubt, to the skillful
maneuvering and the bewildering gyrations of our train
along the line.
The troops ordered out from Fort Robinson had a ter-
rible experience in their fruitless search after our party,
which was at the time safely encamped on French creek.
The command consisting of Troop D., Third Cavalry,
under the captaincy of Brevet Brig. -Gen. Guy V. Henry,
and about fifteen men of the Ninth Infantry under
Lieut. Carpenter, with wagons, rations, etc., for thirty
days, started from Camp (now Fort) Robinson, the
26th of December on their winter's maich toward the
Black Hills. By the time the Cheyenne river was
reached, the weather became so intensely cold — the
thermometer going down to forty degrees below zero —
that the hands of both officers and men were terribly
frozen. They entered the Hills a short distance, but find-
ing no trail started back on their homeward journey
braving the keen cutting wind from the north and barely
escaping being frozen to death. The story of their fearful
suffering during their homeward ride, is best told in the
language of the captain in command, in his graphic and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 97
interesting published account of his experience, a short
time since. He says: "The cold was so intense that it
was impossible to ride. Dismounting, we led our horses,
as they, poor brutes, in their suffering, struggled to escape
from their riders, Avho, in their frozen condition, had
trouble to prevent. Our trail was lost or obliterated by
the snow; our eyes were absolutely sightless from the
constant pelting of the frozen particles, and thus we
struggled on. A clump of trees or a hill for shelter from
the killing, life-sapping wind, would have indeed been a
sweet haven.
" With frozen hands and faces, men becoming weaker
and weaker, many bleeding from the nose and ears, the
weakest lying down, and refusing to move, — a precursor
of death ; with them the painful, stinging bite of the frost,
had been succeeded by the more solid freezing, which
drives the blood rapidly to the center and produces that
warm, delightful, dreamy sensation, the forerunner of
danger and death. They had to be threatened and strapped
to their saddles, for if left behind death would follow, and
an officer's duty is to save his men. Ours now was a
struggle for life; to halt was to freeze to death, to advance
our only hope, as Red Cloud could not be far awav, and
some of us might be able to reach camp with life, thouo-h
with frozen limbs.
" Weakened, till we could no longer walk, in despera-
tion, the command, ' Mount,' was given. Stiffened and
frozen, we clambered into our saddles. Forward, gallop,
and we all knew this was a race for life. We were power-
less. Brain nor eye could no longerlielp us. The instinct
of our horses, would alone save those who could hold out.
So, on we rushed, life and home in front, death behind.
Suddenly, turning the curve of a hill, we came upon a
ranch, inhabited by a white man and his squaw, and we
were saved. Had the sun burst forth with the heat of
summer, our surprise and joy could not have been greater
than they were, to find this place of refuge and safety in
98 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the wilderness, and to be saved from the jaws of death by
a 'squaw ranch!' I have since passed this ranch, and
nothing has ever awakened stronger feelings of gratitude
than the sight of that hovel. The horses were put in the
corral. Those that were running wild with their .power-
less riders were caught. Men were put under shelter, and
the process of thawing out frozen parts commenced, with
its attendant pain and suffering.
" Every oflBcer and man was frozen; some suffered more
than others; and to this day many are suffering from the
effects of this march by the loss of members. Even where
there is no physical disability freezing leaves a nervous
prostration, from which one never recovers. We found
ourselves about fifteen miles from our post, and so great
was the cold, that we could not persuade an Indian to carry
a message to Red Cloud asking that wagons and ambu-
lances be sent to our assistance.
" The next day we received medical attention, and the
helpless were carried to the post.
" There could not have been a greater contrast between
our departure and return. Entering my own quarters, I
was not recognized, owing to my blackened swollen face.
All my fingers were frozen to their second joints ; the flesh
sloughed off, exposing the bones. Other flesh gradually
grew afterward, except on one flnger, the first joint of
which had to be amputated, while the joints of ray left
hand are so stiffened by freezing and extraneous deposits,
that 1 am unable to bend or close my fingers."
The above narrative shows what many other officers and
soldiers in the past have had to undergo on the plains in
the performance of duty, and not a winter but has its
maimed and suffering victims, who have borne their share
in the battle of civilization, rendering victory possible
through the protection of settlers, the building and exten-
sion of railroads, and the peopling of the Great West.
It is very easy indeed, for us, pioneers, to believe that
the above tale of fearful suffering is not in the least exag-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 99
ge rated, when we recall that, at the very time our pursuers
were struggling in the icy embrace of a veritable blizzard,
right in the teeth of a genuine Norther, that cuts like a
razor, we were piling up great log fires to ward off the
intense cold, even though protected from the piercing wind
by the surrounding hills. It is more difficult, however, to
understand why they should turn on their homeward ride,
in the face of such a storm, with the thermometer forty
degrees below, instead of remaining in the shelter of the
Hills until the cold abated, having plenty of rations, forage,
etc., with them.
It appears that Gen. Henry, erroneously supposing that
our expedition had entered the Hills at some point on
their southern limits, expected to either overtake us or
strike the trail that would lead directly to our camp in the
Hills, when in fact we had entered at a point almost dia-
metrically opposite. Manifestly we had a very narrow
escape from capture, as it could not have exceeded thirty
miles from the point reached by the troops to our camp
on French creek.
It was learned, too, that a detachment of soldiers had
also been dispatched on our trail from Fort Randall on the
Missouri river. It transpired that as soon as the band of
Cheyenne Indians, encountered by our expedition at the
Cheyenne river crossing, had reached their agency, they
gave information of having met a large party of white
men traveling towards the Black Hills, when the military
authorities at the above named post immediately sent a
company of mounted infantry in hot pursuit. This com-
pany succeeded in finding our wagon trail which was fol-
lowed into the Hills to some point on the Box Elder
creek, when, their rations becoming exhausted, it was
forced to give up the pursuit and return to the post.
Soldiers attached to that company afterwards told that our
train could not have been more than a day's journey in
advance of them, as they had spent the night before turn-
ing back near our recently abandoned camp fires. From
100 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
this, it appears that the company were not at all anxious to
overtake and capture the expedition when so near its
journey's end.
A STREET INTERVIEW WITH WILD BILL.
One day during the summer of 1875, while walking along
one of the principal streets of Cheyenne with a friend,
there appeared sauntering leisurely towards us from the
opposite direction a tall, straight, and rather heavily built
individual in ordinary citizen's clothes, sans revolver and
knives ; sans buckskin leggins and spurs, and sans every-
thing that would betoken the real character of the man, save
that he wore a broad-brimmed sombrero hat, and a profusion
of light brown hair hanging down over his broad shoulders.
A nearer view betrayed the fact that he also wore a care-
fully cultivated mustache of a still lighter shade, which
curled up saucily at each corner of his somewhat sinister
looking mouth, while on his chin grew a small hirsute tuft
of the same shade, and, barring the two latter appendages, he
might easily have been taken for a Quaker minister. When
within a few feet of us, he hesitated a moment as if unde-
cided, then, stepping to one side, suddenly stopped, at the
same time doffing his sombrero and addressed me in good
respectable Anglo-Saxon vernacular substantially as fol-
lows : —
" Madam, I hope you will pardon my seeming boldness,
but knowing that you have recently returned from the
Black Hills, I take the liberty of asking a few questions
in regard to the country, as I expect to go there myself
soon. ' My name is Hickoc' " I bowed low in ac-
knowledgment of the supposed honor, but I must confess,
that his next announcement somewhat startled me.
" I am called Wild Bill," he continued, " and you have,
no doubt, heard of me, — although," he added, " I sup-
pose you have heard nothing good of me."
" Yes," I candidly answered, " I have often heard of
Wild Bill, and his reputation at least is not at all creditable
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 101
to him." " Bat," I hastened to add, " perhaps he is not
so black as he is painted."
" Well, as to that," he replied, " I suppose I am called
a red-handed murderer, which I deny. That I have
killed men I admit, but never unless in absolute self-
defense, or in the performance of an official duty. I never,
in my life, took any mean advantage of an enemy. Yet,
understand," he added, with a dangerous gleam in his eye,
" I never allowed a man to get the drop on me. But per-
haps I may yet die with my boots on," he said, his face
softening a little. Ah, was this a premonition of the tragic
fate that awaited him?
After making a few queries relative to the Black Hills,
which were politely answered, Wild Bill with a gracious
bow, that would have done credit to a Chesterfield,
passed on down the street out of sight, and I neither saw
nor heard more of him until one day early in August, 1876,
when the excited cry of " Wild Bill is shot," was carried
along the main street of Dead wood.
During our brief conversation he incidentally remarked
that he thought I possessed a good deal of " sand " to
undertake so h)ng and dangerous a journey into the
Black Hills. Now, while Wild Bill, no doubt, intended
that sentiment as a great compliment — it being his
ideal of " pluck," — would you believe I did not at first
quite like the imputation. You see I was not as well
versed in Western phraseology then, as I have since
become.
It was a rather startling experience to be " held up " in
the main thoroughfare of a large, busy town, in broad day-
light, by a noted desperado, yet Wild Bill performed that
daring exploit with a single wave of his swift unerring
right hand. No reflection is meant on his memory when
it is hinted that perhaps he was not well up in street
etiquette. Be that as it may, I have been strongly im-
pressed ever since with the thought that Wild Bill was by
no means all bad. It is hard to tell what environments
102
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
may have conspired to mould his life into the desperate
character he is said to have been.
Before coming to Black Hills in 1876, Will Bill was at one
time sheriff somewhere in the State of Kansas — in which
capacity he is reputed to have been a holy terror to law-
breakers. He was also for many years notable as a gov-
ernment scout, having acted in that capacity during the
Civil War. The greater part of his life had been spent on
the plains, among the lawless element of the Western
border, where, as an officer of the law, he was brought in
frequent conflict with all such desperate characters as usu-
ally infest the frontier setllements; murderers, horse-
thieves, road-agents, and other criminals, who seem to
believe that the world owes them a living which they are
bound to have at any cost. Wild Bill was in consequence
mixed up in many a desperate encounter, in which the first to
press the trigger came off victor, and he was usually the first.
Perhaps the most remarkable peculiarity in the make-up
of Wild Bill, was his wonderful nerve, and marvelous
swiftness as a shot — his aim being steady, and his shot
like a flash of light, it is easy to believe that he never
allowed a man to get the drop on him.
Whether he possessed any redeeming traits is a dis-
puted question ; that he had numerous ardent admirers is
an admitted fact.
This bold dashing frontiersnian, who met his fate in
the Black Hills, upon a time, met a daring and accom-
plished equestrienne of the circus ring, called Madame
Agnes Lake, and mutually admiring each other's dashing
characteristics, they finally loved and were married in
Cheyenne, Wyoming, in 1874. The widow survives her
murdered husband and now lives somewhere in the State
of Kansas.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 103
CHAPTER IX.
THE BLACK HILLS.
The Black Hills, apparently an upheaval from the bed
of a vast ocean, having its existence away back in the
misty past, or, at some prehistoric period, comprising an
area of about 6,000 square miles, are situated in South-
western Dakota, and Eastern Wyoming, the greater part, or
about two-thirds of the entire area, lying in South Dakota
and embraced between the north and south forks of the
Big Cheyenne river, ^vhich encircles them on three sides,
north, east, and south. Along their entire eastern limits,
rise up bold, rugged, and lofty ranges of hills, trending
northeast and southwest, and extending several miles into
the interior, giving them the appearance of almost com-
plete inaccessibility, as seen at a distance by one approach-
ing them from the east. A nearer approach and explora-
tion, however, will discover the fact that such is by no
means the case, as along any of the numerous streams that
gather their waters in the hollows of the jagged granite
peaks and flow eastward to the plains, will be found practi-
cable avenues of entrance to the interior.
The highest point of this wonderful uplift is Harney's
Peak, in the granite region of the southern Hills, which
extends its giant naked crest above its surrounding sister
peaks, to an elevation variously estimated at from 7,500 to
8,200 feet above the level of the sea. From the summit
of this dominant peak, one may behold, spread out, a
glorious panorama of pine-clad hills, luxuriant valleys, and
far-reaching undulating plains, — which look, in the dis-
tance, like the billows of old ocean, and perhaps no more
enchantinor scene ever greeted the human vision.
104
THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
This peak was named in honor of Gen. W. S. Harney,
one of the first Peace Commissioners who were sent out by
the Government and succeeded in effecting a treaty with
the Sioux in 1865.
:^
^MiM
THE NEEDLES NEAR HARNEY's PEAK.
The second highest point is Crook's Tower, — to the
northwest of Harney's Peak, which rises up to an altitude
of 7,140 feet above the plane of the sea. Terry's Peak, in
the northern Hills, claims a height of 7,076 feet above the
ocean level, and Inyan Kara, west of the Hills, aspires to
an altitude of 6,063 feet above the plane of the sea. This
LAST HUNTIXG GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 105
peculiar formation stands alone in the midst of a plain
just west of the Hills proper, and bears the appearance,
as its name signifies, of having been thrown up from the
center of an earlier upheaval leaving the rim of the earlier
uplift intact. The name Inyan Kara interpreted from
the Indian tongue, signifies, " A mountain within a moun-
tain," — as appropriate as the name is musical.
Bear Butte, north of the main uplift and distant there-
from about eight miles, rises up in solitary grandeur,
4,400 feet above the plane of the sea and 1,200 feet above
the surrounding plains. The dim outlines of this lone
mountain, about which cling many interesting Indian tra-
ditions, could be seen by the longing eyes of the travel-
worn pioneers for days before reaching their ultima (hide,
and perhaps never " since the morning stars sang to-
gether " was the sight of a mere inanimate object hailed
with greater thankfulness. Bear Butte is entitled to be-
come historic — to be remembered in song and story as in
the past in Indian tradition, in that it served as a conspicu-
ous landmark to the early explorers to the west and north-
ward, and later to the pioneer, guiding him from afar to the
golden gate, which it overlooks, and where it will forever
keep its lonely vigil.
The most unique geological elevation in the region sur-
rounding the Black Hills is the " Devil's Tower," which
rises up from the valley of the Belle Fourche river like a
hnge fossil tree trunk, 800 feet high and a mile in circum-
ference at its base. This structure, which is believed by
those who have examined its formation to have once formed
the pith of a volcanic cone, is gradually disintegrating and
falling away, and will doubtless eventually crumble to a con-
fused pile of broken rocks.
The mountainous region of the Black Hills includes the
Harney range of granite peaks and ridges, which extends
in an almost complete circle from the Buckhorn spurs north
of Custer City, around to the castellated and massive pile
known as Calamity Peak, about two miles east of that city ;
106 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
the limestone region in the west, and the volcanic uplifts,
viz. : Terry's Peak, Crow's Peak, Bear Butte, Inyan Kara,
Bear Lodge, and Devil's Tower, in the northwest.
The elevation of some of the principal points in and near
the Black Hills, as ascertained by the observations and cal-
culations of Samuel Scott, mining engineer of Custer City,
is as follows: — (Above the ocean.)
Harney's Peak 7,403 ft. Inyan Kara 6,063 ft.
Crook's Tower 7,140 ft. Sundance Mt 6,023 ft.
Terry's Peak 7,070 ft. Crow's Peak 5,772 ft.
Bear Lodge 6,828 ft. Black Buttes 5,650 ft.
Custer's Peak 6,812 ft.
The most attractive features of the Black Hills region to
the pioneers were the magnificent forests of pine covering
the lower ranges and extending far up the lofty mountain
slopes; and the beautiful groves of spruce and fir trees that
grew along through the canyons of the Hills, stretching up
their graceful heads, oftentimes 100 feet toward the top of
the vertical walls on either side — always strongly sug-
gestive of the thought that they were reaching up to greet
the light of the sun's rays, whenever that orb deigned for
a brief time to shed its beams down into their dark recesses;
also the many charming natural parks afterwards found
throughout the Hills, sometimes, strangely enough, right in
the heart of the heavily timbered region, surrounded by
lofty mountains and well watered by copious springs.
Notably among the productive watered parks found hidden
among the mountains in the depths of the forest is what is
called Boulder Park, lying about six miles northeast of Dead-
wood, containing approximately a thousand acres of land.
Groves of ash, oak, elm and a few other varieties of
deciduous trees were found to exist on the northern slopes
of the Hills, and to a limited extent on their eastern and
southern basis, while the many streams flowing therefrom,
were found fringed with an abundant growth of cotton-
wood, box elder, birch, willow, etc.
LAST IIUNTINU GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
107
The forests of the Black Hills are not to-day what the}'
were twenty years ago. Those remorseless civilizers, the
ax and the saw, have shorn them of much of their primitive
luxuriance and beauty — denuding large areas of their most
devil's tower, showing millions of tons of fallkn rock.
valuable timber, leaving in their places nothing but unsightly
stumps. Despite the stringent laws enacted for the pro-
tection of Black Hills forests a great deal of wanton
destruction of valuable timber is carried on year by year.
108 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Another active agent, that has made sad havoc in the
forests of the Bhick Hills is the extensive timber fires that
almost yearly sweep over the Hills, through the most
heavily wooded territory, leaving in their pathway charred
trees divested of all beauty. The timber of the Black Hills
is, for the most part, pine of an excellent quality and of
suitable dimensions for being sawed into lumber for build-
ing and various other purposes — in short the forests of
the Hills are among the many of their valuable resources,
and upon which, by reason of ever-increasing industries,
there will be in the future extraordinary demand.
The area of the Black Hills covered by an excellent
quality of pine timber is estimated at 3,000 square miles,
which will produce an adequate supply for all local
demands for generations yet to come.
PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE BLACK HILLS.
Between the successive mountain ranges of the Black
Hills are rich, fertile valleys covered with a luxuriant
growth of grass and susceptible of a high condition of
cultivation. Agriculture is carried on extensively in the
numerous valle3^s interspersed throughout the Hills, im-
mense crops of cereals, also potatoes and other tubers, in
fact all kinds of vegetables being raised with wonderful
success. Wild fruits, such as plums, grapes, cherries,
currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, and june-
berries are found in great abundance, and of large size and
excellent quallity, pronounced by experts to be equal if
not superior in flavor to the cultivated fruits of the same
kind.
Although no extensive attention has yet been given to
fruit culture, experiment has proven that many varieties of
apples and pears can be successfully cultivated. System-
atic efforts have been made by nursery men near the east-
ern slopes of the Hills towards fruit culture, and several
kinds of fruit, not indigenous to the Black Hills, have
been grown with the most gratifying results. Perhaps
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 109
the most extensive and successful fruit culturist in the
Black Hills is C. Thompson, whose nursery is located a few
miles out from Rapid City and upon whom was bestowed
the award for the size and quality of fruit exhibited at
the Dakota State fair.
The soil of the valleys and plains surrounding the Black
Hills is also exceedingly productive in the cereals, and
all vegetables suitable to that latitude, the extensive beds
of gypsum surrounding the Hills furnishing an inex-
haustible source of fertilization to the lands lying adjacent
thereto. The entire region outside of the timbered area
is covered with an abundant growth of buffalo grass, which
to-day furnishes grazing for thousands of cattle, horses
and sheep, without other sustenance throughout the entire
year. This "bunch grass," which principally grows in
the valleys and on the bench lands, makes its appearance
early in the spring, reaches maturity in June, and cures
where it stands, retaining all its nutritive qualities, thus
constituting the best autumn and winter food for stock
that nature has provided.
THE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK HILLS.
The climate of the Black Hills though in many respects
peculiar to itself, depends, — like all mountainous region,
greatly upon locality. Through the dry season, extending
from May to October, comparatively little rain falls on the
surrounding plains, while through the mountainous region
rainfalls are frequent and copious, and the more heavily,
timbered the region the more frequent the showers. The
mountains serve as condensers, gathering and precipitating
the moisture, with which the atmosphere is charged, by
evaporation from remote localities, while the plains may
be dry and parched by long continued drouth.
Dark thunder clouds, heavily charged with electricity,
frequently hover over the mountain tops, and, after dis-
charging their abundant moisture over the forest region,
break and fade away before reaching the edge of the plains.
110 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
Doubtless, the more extensive culture of timber areas on
the treeless portions of the Hills region, will result in a
corresponding increase of precipitation.
No great depth of snow falls save in the limestone
ranges of the Hills where it remains the greater part of
the season from December to May. Much more snow falls
in the northern than in the southern Hills, or on the val-
leys outside, and it remains longer. The heaviest snow
falls in the months of March and April, and sometimes
even in May. The great flood of 1883, which wrought
such destruction in the northern Hills, was occasioned by a
heavy fall of snow in early May, followed by a warm rain.
The temperature of the Black Hills varies with elevation
and topography. In exceptional cases in the history of the
Hills, the thermometer has been known to indicate a range of
122 degrees, from twenty-five degrees below to ninety-seven
above, seldom, however, reaching more than ninety-four
degrees above to twenty degrees below zero, the main tem-
perature varying according to location from eight to ten
degrees. Owing to the dryness of the climate, in this
favored region, the extremes of heat and cold are not felt
as in the humid atmosphere of eastern localities in the same
latitude.
DRAINAGE.
In the drainage system of the Black Hills the principal
streams are the Belle Fourche, or north fork, and the south
fork of the Big Cheynne river, the Red water, Sand, Spear-
fish, Whitewood, False Bottom, Alkali, Bear Butte, Elk,
Box Elder, Rapid, Spring, Battle, French, Beaver, Red
Canyon, and Fall River. Of these. Sand, Spearfish and
False Bottom creeks, empty their waters into the Red-
water, a tributary of the Belle Fourche, while all the other
above named streams discharge into the South Fork of the
Big Cheyenne river. A notable feature of the drainage
system is that a number of the streams flowing eastward
from the Hills, sink and find a subterranean channel as they
approach the foothills, the water rising again to the surface,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. Ill
a short distance below, but sometimes carrying no surface
water to the streams of which they are tributaries. As a
matter of fact, the only streams of the system which
unfailingly discharge their waters into the main
rivers, throughout the year, are the Red water, Spearfish,
Rapid and Fall River creeks, the first three of which,
furnish ample power for manufacturing and milling, besides
a large surplus for irrigation purposes. Numerous springs
producing an abundant supply of pure, soft water, are
found in every part of the Black Hills.
MINERALS OF THE BLACK HILLS.
The most notable characteristic of the Black Hills reofion
is the abundance and wonderful variety of its mineral pro-
ductions. Although young in point of development, they
have already in operation some of the most productive gold
mines in the world, and they are known to contain silver,
iron, copper, galena, tin, nickel, plumbago, cobalt, mica,
asbestes, antimony, salt, arsenic, and almost every other
known metal. The oft repeated assertion that the Black
Hills are the richest mineral region of equal area in the
world is no doubt true.
THE BLACK HILLS NEVER THE HOME OF INDIANS.
No evidence that Indians had at any time made the Black
Hills their home was found by the first pioneers, which, to
them, was a matter of no little surprise, because contrary
to all preconceived ideas on that point. The romantic
mental picture drawn of the Black Hills, as the Indians'
elysium, whither they hied them from the heat and fatigue
of the summer hunt, to rest under the grateful shades of
their beautiful groves, and smoke the pipe of peace or war,
according to their mood, while the squaws gathered the
wood, built the fires, and cooked the meals, the dusky
maidens and boys meanwhile disporting themselves, ac-
cording to their savage fancies, such as target practice with
the bow and arrow, running, jumping, etc., sports of which
112 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the young braves are excessively fond; and the war dances,
the ghost, and other dances, in the deep ravines, where the
warwhoop would be sure to ring out with the most telling-
effect, was completely dissolved. It seems plain enough
that the tastes and proclivities of savages cannot be gauged
from a civilized standpoint, for, as it appeared, the Black
Hills with all their varied attractiveness possessed no charms
for the red men, while to white men they would have been
a veritable paradise.
Ample evidences were afterwards found that they fre-
quently visited the foothills, for the purpose of supplying
themselves with lodge poles, rarely, however, venturing
very far into the interior. The reason for this avoidance
of the Hills is believed by many to be their superstitious
fear of the terrible thunder storms, which frequently occur
in the Hills, when the lightning, doubtless attracted by
the mineral, sometimes plays fantastic freaks, that would
make even the most philosophical pale-face quail. It has
been asserted by those familiar with the habits of the
Indian, that, when caught in the Hills by a threatened
thnnder-storm they would fly with a piercing shriek and in
the wildest terror, out towards the plains, at the first flash
of lightning, and the first low rumblings of thunder.
SOME INDIAN TRADITIONS.
Of the many curions Indian traditions and legends handed
down from the dead centuries, none, perhaps, are more in-
teresting to us than the superstitions of the Dakotahs in
regard to the Black Hills — superstitions having their
origin in the fertile imaginations of these simple-minded
people, living so close to the heart of nature, which they
are wholly unable to comprehend. Owing to their com-
plete ignorance of the infallible laws governing the great
forces of nature, they are led to invest everything that is
awe-inspiring and grand, all the magnificent, and, to
them, incomprehensible objects in nature, with human
or superhuman powers. Everything that moves, such as
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 113
the sun, moon, wiod, clouds, etc., they clothe with attri-
butes of a god or man, in proportion to the power with
which they are impressed.
Accord ini>: to Indian folk-lore, thev believe that the Great
Spirit sits enthroned, under some one of the lofty peaks
of the Black Hills who, in his angry moods, shoots forth
tongues of forked lightning, and hurls out forged thunder-
bolts from his abiding place, sometimes accompanied by
violent wind, which, they claim, is kept stored in great
tanks for such occasions, all of which they regard as direct
manifestations of his dire displeasure, — and the terrible
-electrical storms that occasionally sweep over the Hills,
twisting, splintering, and tearing up by the roots the great
giants of the woods, leaving them lying in bewildering
confusion along the mountain slopes, they regard as an
exhibition of his still more wrathy paroxysms. It is not
surprising, then, in view of this belief, that the Indians
should have given the Black Hills an extremely wide berth.
They, evidently, had no desire to approach or spend much
time around the throne of an incensed deity.
Another superstition of theirs was, that the evil spirit
had his realm in the dark ravines and gorges of the Hills,
whose malign influence caused the sun to refuse to shine
down into their dark recesses, Avhile others of their numer-
ous deities had their abodes somewhere among the moun-
tain ranges. Still another story, — one of much significance
current among the Sioux, w\as that a white man was kept
confined, under one of the lofty mountains of the Hills,
doomed to perpetual imprisonment, as a warning to tres-
passers upon their happy hunting ground. As the story
goes, this prisoner, who, inconsistent as it may seem, is
allowed to sally forth occasionally for a constitutional, is
a person of colossal proportions, and is reputed to leave,
in his perambulations, footprints twenty feet long,/^ Which
one of the Indian deities is his custodian, or to what na-
tionality the prisoner belongs, tradition saith not. More-
over, there are other strange legends, which are told and
114 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
accepted by them, with the same blind, unreasoning cred-
ulity, that has characterized, to a more or less extent, all
the primitive and uncivilized nations of the world.
The year 1874, beginning the first epoch in the pioneer
history of the Black Hills, and the two subsequent years
of 1875-6, forming as they do, the era comprehended
between their invasion by the first expedition, and their
legitimate occupancy in the early part of 1877, were truly
momentous ones, a period pregnant with exciting and
tragic events, not unmixed with incidents both pathetic
and ludicrous, mau}^ of which occurred under the author's
own observation, and in a few of which she participated.
Although those early pages, as a result of the then crude
conditions, have to record a few cases of high crimes, and
some of lesser magnitude, it may safely be asserted, that
far less lawlessness prevailed during their chaotic period,
than in any other mining region of which we have informa-
tion. The stains upon the white pages of our history are
comparatively few^ though not far between.
All through the summer of 1875, the United States
troops were kept exceedingly busy in an unsuccessful
attempt to keep back the hordes of gold seekers, who were
continually making their way into the Hills, from every
point of the compass, and in driving out those who had
succeeded in eluding their vigilance. Vain effort ! Expe-
rience has show'n that adventurers or hunters after the
yellow metal will not and cannot be stayed; — as well
attempt to stop the swollen current of the Father of
Waters at its flood tide, in its resistless rush to the Gulf, —
throw obstacles across its course, and it will remorselessly
sweep them out of its path, or overflow, and cut a new
channel for its mighty volume of waters to speed on its
way to the sea. Miners, methinks, when determined to
reach a region where gold is reputed to exist, are quite as
slippery as the proverbial eel, that slips through the hand,
despite the firmness of the grasp. The case of the Black
Hills furnishes an exemplification of the aptness of the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 115
above comparison, for even had a cordon of soldiers with
extended bayonets, in close contact, been placed around
the Hills, doubtless some loophole would have been found
to slip through.
IMMIGRATION TO BLACK HILLS IN 1875-6.
Immediately upon the removal of the first expedition
from the stockade in 1875, adventurers began to make their
way into the Hills, but not until late in the fall of 1875
and the spring of 1876 did the great rush of immigration
take place, when, over every practicable route to theHills,^
representatives of every trade and profession under the
sun came rushing along, figuratively, tumbling over each
other in their headlong haste to be the first to reach
the New Eldorado, each individual sanguine of realizing
fabulous wealth on reaching the end of his journey.
Some were in companies, varying in size, with wagons
well loaded with supplies, and munitions of war; others
on horseback, with blankets and guns strapped on
their saddles, their waists encircled with cartridge belts
and bristling with revolvers, knives, etc., — veritable mov-
ing arsenals — while many were on foot, with all their
equipments swung on a stick over their shoulders, some-
times traveling by day and hiding by night, resorting to
various devices to cover up their trials, thus hoping to
escape the vengeance of the marauding Sioux, who were,
in the spring of 1876, on the warpath, fierce for the scalps
of any poor pilgrim who might be found treading with
sacrilegious feet on their cherished hunting ground. Yet,
alas ! many of them met their death at the hands of
the ambushed foe, — how many can never be known.
However, the numerous new-made graves, seen along the
various highways into the Hills, marking the scenes of the
dark tragedies enacted near by, revealed in mute but elo-
quent language, the sad fate of not a few, — graves of the
poor victims, whose mutilated bodies were oftentimes found
and hastily buried by other pilgrims following in their
116 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
wake — graves with only a small piece of pine board to
serve as a monument to mark the spot, and with no other
epitaph than the one simple word — " Unknown," inscribed
thereon. Yes, unknown, yet who had mother, wife, or
sister, perhaps, who long waited and watched till the heart
ached and the eyes grew weary, for some message from
the absent ones who would never return.
We have all seen advertisements in some of the news-
papers, of the Black Hills, reading thus: "Information
wanted of , so and so (giving name, age, description, etc.),
who left his home for the Black Hills in 1875 or 1876, as
the case might be, since which time he has not been heard
from. Any information regarding him will be thankfully
received, etc." Many of those missing ones, perchance,
lie buried in some of the unknown graves scattered along
the lines of early travel into the Black Hills.
A journey into the Black Hills in 1875-6 from any point,
was one fraught with danger, involving in 1875 the great
probability of capture by the United States soldiers, and in
1876 that of meeting the deadly Sioux, who were then
in open and active hostility. Thus they were literally fac-
ing possible death at every step of their journey over the
plains. Notwithstanding the danger, the steady influx
continued, some being forced to turn back before reaching
their destination, the majority, however, managing to slip
through into the Hills.
In one short year the whole aspect of the Black Hills was
transformed from a wilderness into a scene of busy life,
furnishing to those who had seen them in all their primi-
tiveness a striking contrast indeed.
The impressive silence, the profound solitude, that had
therefore reigned supreme over the hills and valleys, was
rudely broken.
All along the banks of various streams and in numerous
gulches of the Hills, never before trodden by civilized feet,
might be seen the tents of hundreds of busy prospectors dili-
gently delving for the shining particles with pick and
J
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
117
shovel, whose noise awoke the slumbering echoes of the
surrounding hills ; and scores of others might be seen
sitting prone, along the edges of the streams, with gold-
pans filled with gravel, scooping up the water, whose How
and ebb washed off the lighter substance, leaving that of
the greater specific gravity in the bottom of their pans ;
then with magnifying glasses eagerly peering into the little
arcs of black sand left in the bottom of their pans to dis-
cover the traces of gold. Did they find gold? Oh, yes,
they always found colors, each one claiming an average of
from fifteen to forty cents to the pan from grass roots
down to bed-rock.
118 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER X.
THE FIRST TO ENTER THE HILLS IN 1875.
According to the most reliable information obtainable,
the first to reach the Black Hills in the spring of 1875, was
a small party, of which Wade Porter, Thos. Monahan,
Rob't Kenyon, Wm. Coslett, Alfred Gay, and others, were
members; with a sprinkling of squaw men and half-breed
Indians. This party had rendezvoused near Red Cloud
Agency in April, 1875, awaiting the return and passage of
the troops having the prisoners in charge, ready to follow
back their trail to the stockade. It is to be presumed that
no time was lost, and that ere the troops had reached Fort
Laramie with their prisoners, this party had entered the
wide open gates of our once boasted stronghold in the Hills,
and taken possession of the recently vacated cabins within
the walls, — even before their rude hearthstones had
hardly time to grow cold, — and it is further reasonable
to suppose that no time was lost by them in ferreting out,
and bringing forth to the light of day the various pieces
of property that had been so carefully cached only a few
days before, and, perchance, the cattle that had been
driven to the recesses of the Hills by the furious snowstorm,
at the time of the exodus of their owners, were soon found
and appropriated by them, — all of which, no doubt,
should be regarded as the legitimate booty of those having
the good fortune of finding them. But I draw the line at
the trunk. What became of the cached trunk? That is
the problematic question.. Alas ! did it too fall into the
hands of the half-breeds and squaw men? To a moral cer-
tainty some man found that trunk and appropriated its
contents, but what use a man could possibly put some of
the garments and other articles to, is somewhat puzzling.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 119
It certainly needed no wonderful detective skill to have
found its hidin«-place, as the attention of anyone entering
the third cabin on the left of the entrance to the stockade,
would at once be attracted to a rather suspicious looking
spot in one of the corners of the cabin floor, — which would
betray the secret. When I say floor, I mean ground floor,
literally. According to a plausible theory, they first raked
off the debris from the surface, then shoveled away a few
inches of Mother Earth, removed the poles that spanned the
small opening, and there about three feet below the surface
it stood fully revealed; the trunk being lifted out, and the
lid pried open, the work of desecration began. Garment
after garment of the owner's personal wardrobe was taken
out and curiously scrutinized, — they no doubt wondering
what, or how each article was to be utilized, — nothing
extremely elaborate, it must be confessed, yet- all she
possessed. But the half has not yet been told. On reach-
ing the bottom of the trunk, a small mahogany box was
found in which was deposited, among other trinkets, a
little golden locket, enwrapped in a small piece of tissue
paper, grown yellow with the passage of years, which en-
closed the shadow of a face, — a very dear face. A
romance? Oh, no, there was no romance whatever con
nected with that long-treasured memento, — only the
pictured face of a much beloved classmate, who bad, years
before, left her work unfinished and crossed over the
border into the spirit land. The loss of this picture cut
deep. The owner of that wardrobe was for many years after
diligently searching for a dusky maiden, trigged out in the
garments abstracted from that ill-starred trunk, and with
a little golden locket suspended from her bronzed throat,
or, perchance, from one of her dusky ears, — but without
reward. The loser has long since ceased to regret the loss
of her wardrobe of twenty years ago, but the picture
never; and woe betide the luckless maid, or fully-matured
dame, red or white, who is ever found wearing that
cherished locket.
120 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
This same little ptuty of golden hunters, who had fol-
lowed up so quickly the exit trail of the first pioneers,
after being comfortably domiciled in the deserted cabins,
and possessing themselves of such cached property as
could be found in and around the stockade, which included
picks, shovels, gold pans, etc., proceeded without un-
necessary delay to the work of prospecting, — some mining
in the abandoned works on French creek, others scatter-
ing out through the Hills in search of richer fields. How-
ever, they were not long left uninterrupted in their labors.
The military authorities soon learning of their bold
escapade through the lines into the Hills, at once sent a
detachment of mounted soldiers, lead by Raymond, a
scout in the government service, to remove them, or any
others who might be found in the Hills, to the agency. In
the early part of May those of the party who remained on
French creek were one day surprised and captured, with
their provisions, and escorted back to Red Cloud agency,
where, after a short duress, they were set at liberty and
their property restored to them. It is to be presumed that
their outward march was not characterized by the headlong
haste with which they entered the Hills, not many days
before. However, they soon returned to the Hills by a cir-
cuitous route. The other members of the party who
escaped capture — among whom was Wade Porter, remained
in the Hills, until the arrival of the Jenny Expedition, in
June, with which they prospected to some extent under
the protection of Col. Dodge's command, and were not
afterwards disturbed, until they, with hundreds of others,
who, in the meantime, had entered the Hills, were ordered
out by Gen. Crook on August 10th, 1875.
THE FIRST EXPEDITION IN 1875.
The first well-equipped expedition to embark for the
Black Hills in the spring of 1875 was organized and out-
fitted at Sioux City, through the efforts of John Gordon,
who, it will be remembered, left the stockade with Eaf
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 121
Witcher, in the depth of winter, February 6th, and rode
back over the bleak plains to Sioux City, bearing the shin-
ing particles that were to set the whole country in a wild
delirium. Obviously, no time had been lost by Gordon, in
carrying out the plan agreed upon, before leaving the
stockade, of fitting out an expedition as speedily as possi-
ble, and returning with reinforcements and supplies to the
imperiled little band, left entrenched among the mountains.
The state of the public mind was highly auspicious at the
time for the organization of a Black Hills expedition evi-
dently, for in a little more than sixty days from the time
the two hardy messengers left the Hills, the organization
was complete; outfits were purchased and every one ready
for marching orders. The members numbered 174 men,
and two women, one of whom was the wife of Major
Brockett — a member of the Collins and Russell expedition
of 1874; the other a German woman, whose name is not
positively known. It is believed, however, that she was
Mrs. Schlawig, whose husband kept a brewery in Dead-
wood in 1876. The train consisted of twenty-nine wagons,
heavily freighted with provisions, saddle horses and all the
other adjuncts of a well-equipped expedition.
The train was scheduled to leave Sioux City on the 20th
of April, 1875, but owing to the mass of ice floating in the
river the ferryboat was unable to cross, causing a delay of
several days. On the morning of the 25th the whistle of
the steam ferry blew the signal that the channel was clear,
when the impatient gold adventurers hurried to the land-
ing and were all soon landed on the opposite side of the
river. On the following morning, April 26th, the train,
under the captaincy of John Gordon, marched away from
the west bank of the Missouri — ^ strangely enough, with-
out attracting the notice of Uncle Sam's watchful agents —
and proceeded on its way westward across the State of
Nebraska unmolested until, reaching a point on the Nio-
brara river between Snake and Antelope creeks, near the
present site of Gordon, Neb., where, at 6 o'clock in the
122 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
morning on the 25th of May, a company of infantry under
Capt. Walker, and two troops of cavalry, and a battery of
two Gatling guns, from Fort Robinson, in command of
Capt. Mills, surrounded the expedition, seized and burned
nearly the entire train, with its valuable cargo of mer-
chandise, besides the blankets and personal belongings of
many of the party.
One of the wagons, however, was saved from the general
holocaust by the bravery and pertinacity of a woman —
Mrs. Brockett. Mrs. Brockett occupied a seat on this
wagon on the top of a load of merchandise belonging to
her husband, and do you suppose she could be induced to
yield up her point of vantage on that load of goods? No,
indeed ; not she ! Most women would have meekly yielded,
but Mrs. Brockett didn't. She could neither be persuaded,
cajoled, nor frightened into giving up her " dead cinch "
on that load of merchandise, but sat as immovable as a rock
and as imperturbable as the famed Egyptian sphinx. The
officer in command was completely nonplussed. He was
too gallant a gentleman to order violent hands laid upon
a lady; neither did he feel quite justified in turning a
Gatling gun upon her, and of course it wouldn't do to
cremate her alive; so, after exhausting every kind of
strategy known to military tactics, he was finally compelled
to face the wagon about with its load of merchandise —
including the plucky Mrs. Brockett, who, with the rest of
the party, were marched back under military escort to
Yankton, where they were set across the river and admon-
ished not to return with trespassing intent.
John Gordon, the leader of the expedition, was taken
into custody and conducted to the nearest military prison
(Fort Robinson), where he was held until August, 1875,
when he was taken to Omaha, Neb., for trial, and released
by Judge Dundy, of that city.
The train of this expedition belonged to the Sioux City
and Black Hills Transportation Co., that being the initial
trip of the line.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 123
Despite the discouraging fiiilure of his second adventure
Gordon, after his release, with admirable pluck and per-
severance returned to the Hills, but hard luck seemed to
follow him. The fickle goddess refused to smile upon his
etiforts and would not be propitiated.
Meeting our former leader on the streets of Dead wood,
one day, late in the 70's, I ventured to inquire how
things were " panning out " for him in the Black Hills. He
frankly confided to me that he had not as yet succeeded in
striking "pay gravel." '* Every venture has so far proved
a disastrous failure; and what is worse, I am several hun-
dred dollars out of pocket," he answered. By way of
encouragement, I told him, in reciprocal confidence, that
we, too, had gotten clear down to bed-rock, with not a
dollar in sight, and as a further solace, took occasion to
remind him that the brave were not always rewarded with
success. Since that day I have never seen the leader and
guide of the first expedition to the Black Hills.
SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION SENT TO THE BLACK HILLS.
In the spring of 1875, after the discovery of gold in the
Black Hills, and even before the first expedition was re-
moved from the stockade, the government, foreseeing the
inevitable consequences of such discovery, and antici-
pating the difficulty of preventing trespassers from entering
upon the Sioux reserve, and, at the same time, unwilling
that the then existing treaty stipulation should be violated,
deemed it expedient that immediate steps be taken, in the
interest of miners as well as for the protection of the In-
dians, towards securing the right, by new treaty, or other-
wise, to enter the Black Hills portion of the Sioux reserva-
tion for the purposes of prospecting and mining.
Preliminary to this, however, inasmuch as there were
many conflicting rumors in regard to the existence of gold
in paying quantities, the government decided to send
reliable parties into the reputed gold-bearing region, to
ascertain the true value and extent of its mineral deposits,
124 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
or other possible resources. A report of the result of such
investigation would furnish substantial information upon
which to base an intelligent judgment, in the event of any
subsequent negotiations for the acquisition of the Black
Hills, and their abandonment by the Indians.
Accordingly, an expedition for that purpose was organ-
ized under the direction and control of the Interior Depart-
ment and Walter P. Jenny, was appointed to take charge of
the work, — receiving his commission, March 26th, 1875.
On April 25th the expedition, fully manned and equipped,
was gathered at Cheyenne, Wyoming, ready to embark for
the Black Hills, to enter upon the important work intrusted
to it. Owing to some misunderstanding, however, the nec-
essary transportation facilities had not been furnished,,
which necessitated a delay of nearly a month.
At length, on the 20th day of May, everything being in
readiness, the expedition started for Fort Laramie, where
it was joined by a military escort, under the command of
Lieut. -Col. R. T. Dodge, 23d Infantry, when the whole
party moved on Black Hills- ward.
As the extent and scope of the work to be accomplished,
was designed to be of far-reaching importance, both from
a material and scientific standpoint, it was deemed advis-
able to change the original plan by adding to the corps an
astronomer and topographer, Capt. P. H. Tutlle, of Cam-
bridge University, and Dr. V. T. McGillicuddy, at present
of Rapid City, South Dakota, being commissioned to the
respective positions.
As much of the history of the Black Hills during the
year 1875, is embodied in the reports of officers in charge
of the scientific and military expeditions ordered into the
Hills, and is therefore a matter of public record, I feel
justified in copying such reports, either as a whole, or in
part, as the only available source from which to obtain
absolutely correct information in regard to the work and
movements of said expeditions.
From Prof. Jenny's published account of the movements
PROF. WALTER P. JENNY,
Photographed about March, 1878, and a good representation of the
youthful Geologist, at the time of the Black Hills
Scientific Expedition in 1875.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 125
of the expedition under his charge, after leaving Cheyenne,
I copy the following: —
" Arriving at Fort Laramie on May 20th, all arrange-
ments were consummated, and crossing the Phitle on the
afternoon of the 24th of May, we joined the military
escort, furnished by the War Department, consisting of
Lieut. -Col. E. T. Dodge, Twenty-third Infantry, com-
manding; Lieut. M. F. Trout, Ninth Infantry, adjutant ;
Lieut. J. F. Trout, Twenty-third Infantry, quartermaster;
Lieut. J. G. Bourke, Third Cavalry, topographer ; and
Surgeons Jaquette and Kane, with two companies of the
Ninth Infantry under Capts. A. H. Bowan, Munson and
Lieut. DeLaney; two companies of the Second Cavalry
under Capt. Spaulding and Lieuts. C. F. Hall, J. H.
Cole and F. W. Kingbury ; four companies of the Third
Cavalry under Capts. W. Hawley, G. Russell, and W.
H. Wessels, and Lieuts, A. D. King, R. G. Whitman,
James Lawson, J. G. Foster, and C. Norton, with a train of
seventy-five wagons.
" This large command, numbering full 400 men, would
seem at first unnecessarily strong for the mere purpose of
protecting from Indians those who were pursuing the in-
vestigation in the Hills, but the attitude of the Indians on
the penetration of this, the most cherished spot of their
reservation, could not be foretold, and it was known that
they had been not a little agitated by the invasions of
Gen. Custer in the previous year, and by the subse-
quent visits and operations of miners. Though no bands
of Indians were met during the work, our safety and free-
dom from their visits were probably due to the well-known
magnitude and strength of the expedition.
" A great measure of the success of the exploration is
due to the hearty co-operation of the oflicers of the com-
mand, but particularly to the commander. Col. Dodge,
whose unwavering interest and determination to make the
work successful, and whose constant assistance and court-
esy were especially valuable and grateful during the entire
126 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
course of the work. To Lieuts. Norton and Foster,
who were detailed for topographical work, Dr. McGilli-
cuddy is indebted for assistance in the prosecution of his
mapping.
" Reaching the Black Hills on the east fork of the Beaver
on the 3d day of June, the work of the survey was soon
begun, and a permanent camp was established on French
creek near the stockade erected by the miners during the
previous winter. In order to pursue the work more rap-
idly and thoroughly a division of the party was made, as
follows : —
" Mr. Jenny, with a corps of assistants, assumed more
particularly the investigation of the mineral resources of
the country, prospecting the gold deposits, etc., while the
remainder of the party, Mr. Newton, Dr. McGillicuddy, and
Capt. Tuttle continued the topographical and more com-
plete geological study of the Hills. As the work of the
survey progressed northward the main body of the escort
of troops was transferred from one base of supplies to
another, so as to keep up with the course of the expedi-
tion. In this manner, with scarcely a day's remission
from work, the surve}' continued until the entire area of
the Black Hills between the forks Of the Cheyenne had
been mapped, and its geology and mineral resources de-
termined, as fully as the rapid progress would permit.
" Having passed over the entire country, and accom-
plished the object of the expedition, the various parties
assembled on the Cheyenne, at the mouth of Rapid creek,
and began the march homeward, reaching Fort Laramie
via White River and the agencies of Spotted Tail and Red
Cloud, on the fourteenth day of October, after an absence
of four months and twenty daj's."
Having disbanded the expedition at Chej'enne, the offi-
cers of the survey returned east, and assembled in Wash-
ington early in November to complete their reports. While
in the field, the various discoveries of the presence of gold
in the different districts were announced to the Comrais-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 127
sioner of Indian Affairs at Washington, and a preliminary
report by Mr. Jenny on the mineral resources of the Hills,
accompanied by a small preliminary map by Dr. McGilli-
cuddy, was published in the annual re})ort of the Commis-
sioner of Indian Affairs for 1875. The completed obser-
vations of the mineral resources, climate, etc., possessing
immediate and particular interest, were, by resolution of
the Senate, called for in advance of the final report, and
with a preliminary map were published in 1876.
The subjoined account, given by Professor Jenny, of his
meeting with the miners on French creek, may be read
with interest: —
" When I reached French creek, June 16th, 1875, about
fifteen men were found camped four miles above the stock-
ade, where they had been at work for several weeks, and
had staked off claims, built small dams and were digging
ditches, preparatory to commencing sluicing on the bars
along the banks of the streams. These miners were very
enthusiastic in regard to the mineral wealth of the gulch ;
they were reporting from five to twenty-five cents to the
pan from the gravel, and made the most extravagant state-
ments as to the yield which would be obtained as soon as
they commenced working with sluices. But they were
working under unfavorable circumstances, the water supply
was very small — not exceeding fifty miner's inches, with
every indication that it would soon fail entirely, and the
grade of the valley was so small that it was difficult to get a
good head of water for sluicing.
" On testing, by washing the pay gravel from the different
prospect holes already opened, with a pan, and weighing
the gold obtained, it was found that the usual yield along
the streams was from four to eight colors to the pan
(about one-tenth to one-fifth of a cent), and in favorable
and somewhat limited localities, from a half cent to as
high as one and a half cents were obtained from the gravel
from off bed-rock.
" The gravel bars were rich enough in gold to pay if exten-
128 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
sively worked under more favorable circumstances, but too
poor to yield a remunerative return for the labor employed,
except in a few limited deposits of gravel near the extreme
head of the stream.'*
The following is a copy of Professor Jenny's dispatch to
the Department at Washington from camp on French
creek : —
" Camp on French Creek, June 17th, 1875.
To Hon. E. P. Smith, Commissioner of Indian Affairs,
Washington, D. C . :
I have discovered gold in small quantities on the north
bend of Castle creek, in terraces of bars and quartz gravel.
Arrived here yesterday. About fifteen men have located
claims on the creek above here and have commenced work-
ing. Gold is found southward to French creek at this
point. The region has not been fully explored, but the
yield of gold is small and the richness of the gravel has
been greatly exaggerated. The prospect, at present, is not
such as to warrant extensive operations in mining.
Walter P. Jenny, E. M.,
Geologist of Exploration of the Black Hills."
The thought may here occur to the mind of the reader,
as it has to mine, that the results of the work of explora-
tion of the Black Hills for mineral deposits, as shown by
the reports of Professor Jenny to the Commissioner of
Indian Affairs, was by no means of an encouraging
nature. The infinitesimal prospects obtained were not
calculated to inspire the belief that the placer min-
ing in the territory examined could, by even the
most approved processes, be made very remunerative.
Of course, the existence of gold was demonstrated and
much other valuable information obtained, in reference to
their geology, topograph}^ etc., yet the result certainly
furnished but small evidence that the Black Hills would
ever become the great mineral producing country into
which it has since developed. But, when it is remembered
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
129
that the marvelous placer deposits of the northern Hills
had not yet been discovered, and when it is considered
that no systematic mining was practicable and the pros-
pects obtained were merely pan tests, from the surface
down to bed-rock, at more or less widely separated points,
the homeopathic character of the prospects obtained ceases
to be a matter of surprise. However, by years of persist-
ent work, with an ever-abiding faith in the final outcome,
it has since been demonstrated that the Black Hills is pre-
eminently a gold-producing country. Discoveries have
been made, and are being made, almost daily, in both the
northern and southern Hills, that have proved a wonderful
revelation to the mining world.
130 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XI.
THE CESSION OF THE BLACK HILLS.
AH attempts of the government to keep the people out
of the Black Hills, proved from the first unsuccessful.
From the time the first expedition succeeded in secretly
launching its " prairie craft " and eluding subsequent pur-
suit, and in finally planting its banners amid the natural
battlements of the Hills, right within the " holy of holies "
of the hunting ground of the Sioux, it became evident that
the government would soon be compelled to yield to the
popular demand, that some arrangement be made with the
Indians, looking to the relinquishment of their claim to
the Black Hills portion of their reservation. As a matter
of fact, it was no part of the governmental policy, that this
resourceful land should any longer be reserved for the sole
use of savages, but to make favorable terms for its relin-
quishment possible it was necessary that an effort be made
to maintain inviolate the provisions of the then existing
treaty; therefore to accomplish the desired end, two things
had to be done: first, to appoint a commission to treat
with the Indians for the cession of the Black Hills, or for
their occupancy for mining ; second, to remove by military
force, as far as practicable, all trespassers from the Indian
reserve.
In pursuance of that policy, on the 18th day of June,
1875, a commission was appointed by the Secretary of the
Interior, for the purpose of treating with the Indians ; and
on the 20th of September of the same year, the combined
council of commissioners and Indians rendezvoused on the
White river, about eight miles from Red Cloud Agency.
The representatives of the government present were as
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 131
follows: Hon. Wm, B. Allison, of Iowa; Brig. -Gen. A. H.
Terry, U. S. A.; S. D. Hinman, Santee agency; W. H.
Ashley, Beatrice, Nebraska; Hon. A. Comings, Missonri ;
G. P. Beauvais, St. Lonis, Missouri; A. G. Lawrence,
Rhode Island.
The following tribes of Indians were represented: The
Ogalallas, Mineconjons, Brules, Uncapapas, Blackfeet,
Sans Ares, Yanktons, Santees, Cheyennes, and Arapahoes.
As might have been expected, their deliberations proved
barren of good results. Owing to the dictation of a few
degenerate, renegade white men, and the Indians half-
breeds, their demands were so exorbitant as to render
negotiations at that time out of the question. From
$30,000 they raised their price finally to $70,000, in addi-
tion to which they wanted large herds of cattle, and
horses, agricultural implements, the most approved guns,
plenty of ammunition, and palatial residences that would
compare favorably with those occupied by the wealthv
pale-faces, with tapestry hangings, upholstered furniture,
etc., for their chiefs; and it is hard to tell what their limit
might have been if the conference had continued lono^er.
The commissioners, of course, refused to consider these
unreasonable demands, and the council broke up, without
accomplishing their object.
It is stated by a gentleman who was present on that
occasion, that before the pow-wow closed the Indians had
become insolent and defiant, and when negotiations came
to an end, some of the chiefs assumed an attitude of
decided hostility, — hostility indicating that they would
much like to bear away the scalps of the commissioners as
trophies, in lieu of the $70,000 and other property de-
manded for their land. For a time an outbreak seemed
imminent, which, however, was happily averted by the
wiser counsels of the few.
It goes without saying that the failure of the commission
to treat with the Indians was a source of keen disappoint-
ment to the hundreds of miners in the Hills, who were
132 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
being so persistently harassed by the soldiers as to render
any extensive or successful prospecting impracticable; and
also to many who were standing outside the golden gate
waiting for the permission and consent of the government
to enter the forbidden country. Miners became clamorous
for what they regarded as their rights, which they were
determined to have at all hazards — if not with, then with-
out, the consent of the government.
President Grant was quick to see that some further effort
must be made to relieve the embarrassment of the situa-
tion, as the following extract from his message to Congress
in reference to the matter, will show: —
"The discovery of gold in the Black Hills, a portion of
the Sioux reservation, has had the etfect to induce a large
emigration to that point. Thus far the effort to preserve
the treaty rights of the Indians of that section has been
successful, but the next year will witness a large increase
of such emigration. The negotiations for the relinquish-
ment of the gold lands having failed, it will be necessary
for Congress to adopt some measure to relieve the embar-
rassment growing out of the causes named.
*' The Secretary of the Interior suggests that the sup-
plies now appropriated for that people, being no longer
obligatory under the treaty of 1868, but simply a gratuity,
may be issued or withheld at his discretion."
Congress then took the matter under consideration, which
resulted in the appointment of a second commission by the
Secretary of the Interior. In August, 1876, this commission
met ao'ain in council with the representatives of the various
tribes, under instructions from the Interior Department to
treat with the Indians on the following specific terms: —
1st. The Indians to relinquish all right and claim to any
countrv outside the boundaries of the permanent reserva-
tion, as established by the treaty of 1868.
2d. To relinquish all right and claim to so much of that
said reservation as lies west of the 103d meridian of longi-
tude.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 133
3d. To grant right of way over the permanent reserva-
tion to that point thereof which lies west of the 103d
meridian of longitude, for wagon and other roads, from
convenient and accessible points on the Missouri river, not
exceeding three in number.
4th. To receive all such supplies as are provided for by
said act and said treaty of 1868, at such points and places
on their said reservation and in the vicinity of the Missouri
river, as the President may designate.
5th. To enter into such agreement or arrangement with
the President of the United States as shall be calculated
and designed to enable said Indians to become self-sup-
porting.
Negotiations this time proved successful, and on Septem-
ber 26th, 1876, at Red Cloud Agency, the following eupho-
nious and suggestive signatures (in Indian chirography, 1
suppose), were attached to the treaty, namely: Red Cloud,
American Horse, Young-Man-Afraid-of-His-Horse, Little
Wound, Red Dog, Afraid-of-the-Bear, Three Bears, Fire
Hunter, Quick Bear, Red Leaf, Five Eyes, White Bow,
Good Bull, Lone Horse, Two Lance, Bad Wound, Veasel
Bear, High Bear, He-Takes-the-Indian-Soldier, High Wolf,
Big Thunder, and Slow Bull.
The above treaty was ratified by Congress, and approved
by the President, on February 28th, 1877.
The territory ceded by this treaty is embraced between
the two forks of the Cheyenne river, and is bounded on the
west by the 104 degree meridian of longitude.
It will be seen by studying the provisions of this treaty,
that by its terms the Indians from a material standpoint
lost much, and gained but little. By the first article they
lose all rights to the unceded Indian territory in Wyoming
from which white settlers had then before been altogether
excluded ; by the second they relinquish all right to the
Black Hills, and the fertile valley of the Belle Fourche in
Dakota, without additional material compensation; by the
third conceding the right of way over the unceded portions
134 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
of their reservation ; by the fourth they receive such sup-
plies only, as were provided by the treaty of 1868, restricted
as to the points for receiving them. The only real gain
to the Indians seems to be embodied in the fifth article of
the treaty. The Indians, doubtless, realized that the Black
Hills was destined soon to slip out of their grasp, regard-
less of their claims, and therefore thought it best to yield
to the inevitable, and accept whatever was offered them.
They were assured of a continuance of their regular daily
rations, and certain annuities in clothing each year, guar-
anteed by the treaty of 1868, and what more could they
ask or desire, than that a living be provided for themselves,
their wives, their children, and all their relations, including
squaw men, indirectly, thus leaving them free to live their
wild, careless, unrestrained life, exempt from all the
burdens and responsibilities of civilized existence ? In view
of the fact that there are thousands who are obliged to
earn their bread and butter by the sweat of their brows,
and that have hard work to keep the wolf from the door,
they should be satisfied.
THE ADVENT OF GEN. CROOK IN THE BLACK HILLS.
In the early part of July almost simultaneously with the
appointment of the first commission to treat with the Sioux
for their occupancy Gen. Crook arrived in the Hills with a
military force, for the purpose of expelling all persons
to be found in the Hills without the consent and sanction
of the government.
This, it is believed, was undertaken more from consider-
ations of policy in order to conciliate the Indians, who, it
was thought, would refuse to negotiate, until trespassers
were removed from their territory, than with any ex-
pectation, or even hope, that the effort would prove
successful.
As a matter of fact Gen. Crook was plainly inclined to
give the miners a wide latitude, and fulfilled his mission, it
seemed, in a sort of perfunctory way. Major Pollock,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 135
however, who was in command of the military forces, was
disposed to execute his orders to the very letter, and is
credited with a great deal of "pernicious activity," in
harassing the miners, — forcing them to dodge about
from point to point to escape arrest and expulsion, and
sometimes, in extreme cases, in placing them in " durance
vile," and feeding them on hard tack and water. In
short, Major Pollock kept the miners in perpetual hot
water, during his nearly four months stay in the Black
Hills.
One day, about the middle of October, a squad of cavalry,
while scouring the Hills in search of trespassers, surprised
a small party of some half-dozen miners, who were prospect-
ing on Castle creek, took them into custody, relieved them
of their property, and escorted them to military headquar-
ters at Custer, where they were put in the " guardhouse,"
or some kind of an inclosure prepared for recalcitrant
miners. After being kept prisoners for several days, they
were sent to Cheyenne to be tried before the United States
commissioner, who, concluding, doubtless, that he had no
valid right to hold them, soon released them, and restored
their property.
Among these prisoners were Wade Porter and T. H.
Mallory, prominent miners in the Hills in 1875, both of
whom had returned to the Hills, after having voluntarily
left about the middle of August, in compliance with the
order of Gen. Crook. This, it appears, was their second
offense, in consequence of which they were made an exam-
ple of. Soon after their discharge, nothing daunted, they
with others again returned to the Hills, late in the fall of
1875, and remained during the winter following.
The history of these few is also the history in part of
hundreds of other prospectors who were driven out at the
point of the bayonet, only to return at the first favorable
opportunity by some circuitous route, and re-enter at some
other point, then scatter out through the gulches of the
Hills. These offensive and defensive movements were kept
136 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
up during the entire summer of 1875, the solution of the
problem being no nearer at its close than at the beginning.
MINERS LEAVE THE HILLS BY ORDER OF GEN. CROOK.
Pursuant to instructions from the government, Gen.
Crook, on the 10th day of August, issued a call to the
miners to meet at the stockade near Custer, for the pur-
pose of entering into preliminary arrangements for leaving
the Hills, until some terms for opening the country to set-
tlement could be agreed upon with the Indians, and also,
incidentally, to make rules and regulations for the protec-
tion of their claims, pending negotiations. As one of the
conditions of their voluntary exodus the miners presented a
petition to the commanding general, asking that six or
more men of their own choosing be permitted to remain in
the Hills to guard their claims durina: the absence of their
owners. Gen. Crook, who was in full sympathy with the
miners, was disposed to allow them every reasonable op-
portunity for throwing any kind of a safeguard around the
property they were so reluctantly leaving, expressed a
willingness to grant their petition, and further, would allow
them five days in which to make preparations for leaving,
provided they would then go out of the Hills, without
compelling him to resort to force. Believing that their
own interests would be best served by complying, the
miners unanimously agreed to the proposed terms.
On the following morning, August 11th, a town-site
company was organized, a site of a mile square was laid
out and platted and named Custer. The blocks were
divided into lots which were numbered from one up to
twelve hundred. Tickets bearing these numbers were
deposited in a box, from which on that day several hundred
miners drew slips and became the owners of the lots corre-
sponding in number with those drawn from the receptacle.
A list of the names of lot owners was given into the custody
of the men chosen as guardians of the miners' property
interests, during their temporary absence. The men
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
137
chosen to remain in the Hills were ; Saml. Shankland, Thos.
Hooper, A. D. Trask, Robt. Kenyon, W. H. Wood, Alex.
Thompson, Alfred Gay, and H. F. Hull.
August 15th, 1875, hundreds of miners of their own
volition turned their backs upon the new found Eldorado.
RED CLOUD.
Other miners, not within the reach of Gen. Crook's procla-
mation, upon hearing of the action taken at the stockade,
also left the Hills a few days later. Let it be understood,
however, that a considerable number of miners and pros-
pectors, scattered about at remote points, were never
reached. A few others also, who were prospecting with the
138 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Jenny Expedition, among whom were John W. Allen,
Brown, Carlin, Flarida, and Warren (our " Uncle Newt "),
were not molested. There were a great many miners yet
left in the Hills, and others constantly coming to take the
places of those who had left.
SPOTTED TAIL IN THE BLACK HILLS.
During the month of August, 1875, one of the head
chiefs of the Sioux Nation, and twelve braves of his tribe,
with their ponies, trappings, and dogs, accompanied by an
Indian agfent, arrived in the Black Hills, the object of the
visit being to investigate and judge for themselves of the
true value of the territory to be relinquished, — such
knowledge to be used to the advantage of their people in
the approaching council. That their estimate of the value
of the Black Hills and their resources was great was evi-
denced by the extravagant consideration demanded therefor
a month later.
MINERS RETURN TO THE HILLS.
After the failure of the commission to agree upon any
terms with the representatives of the Sioux, for the opening
of the country to settlement, the miners, who had volun-
tarily left the Hills at the request of Gen. Crook, with
renewed determination returned and repossessed them-
selves of their abandoned claims, also with them hundreds
of others who entered the Hills for the first time.
The cavalry, meanwhile, were kept exceedingly active
in their attempts to keep back the invaders, which efforts
proved fruitless, as, if driven out at one point they were
sure to re-enter at another.
THE JENNY EXPLORING EXPEDITION COMPLETES ITS WORK.
The Jenny Exploring Expedition, having finished theim"
portant work that had been intrusted to it, left the Hills
with its military escort, about the first of October, 1875.
On the outward march Col. Dodge reported having met
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAllS.
139
California Joe with about forty or fifty men, on the south
fork of the Cheyenne river, en route for the Hills.
THE CAVALRY FORCE WITHDRAWN.
About the 1st of December, 1875, Capt. Pollock and
his cavalry force were withdrawn from the Hills, at which
SPOTTED TAIL.
time all military opposition to immigration ceased. About
the same time, the Indians doffed their feathers, rubbed
off their war paint, and suspended active hostilities for the
winter, to be renewed with increased violence and added
horrors in the early spring of 1876. All opposition
bein^y removed, the rush began. Not only miners who
140 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
could now prosecute their search for gold without molesta-
tion, but men of all professions; business men with their
stock in trade; groceries, dry goods, restaurant furnish-
ings, sawmills, saloon fixtures, billiard tables, etc., came
for a time without let or hindrance. It is estimated that
at least 11,000 people came to the Black Hills during the
winter of 1875-6 — from November 15, 1875, to March 1,
1876 — the great majority of whom came first to Custer.
CUSTEK IN 1875.
Custer is beyond question entitled to the proud distinc-
tion of being the pioneer town of the Black Hills. Being
the objective point of a large percentage of those coming
to the Hills during the wiuter of 1875-6, it suddenly grew
from a small mining camp of a few unfiuished cabins to a
town of very formidable proportions.
During the first three months of the year 1876, 1,400
buildings were erected on the site where, at the close of
1875, there had stood but one solitary finished building.
It is somewhat difficult to realize that on the spot where,
less than two years before, civilized feet had never trod,
but which meanwhile had become historic ground, a town of
such magnitude should exist. Fact, however, is sometimes
stranger than friction.
During that period, structures of both lumber and logs
sprung up on every hand as if by magic. The clear
air of the beautiful park was resonant from morning
till night, seven days in the week, with sound of ax, ham-
mer, and saw; the surrounding hillsides swarmed with men,
busy in felling trees and cutting them into logs to be used
in the construction of cabins or hauled to the mill to be
sawed into lumber. Ah, pity 'tis, that the beauty of our
magnificent forests and groves should have to be so marred !
This pioneer town of the Black Hills was built of struc-
tures both large and small (some of them quite pretentious)
to be used for various purposes, all kinds of business being
represented .
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 141
There were hotels, restaurants, dry goods and grocery
stores; also meat shops, shoe shops, sawmills, and saloons
galore.
Before the great stampede to Deadwood Gulch in the
spring of 1876 Custer could boast a population variously
estimated at from 6,000 to 10,000 people, in which numer-
ous families were included.
FRENCH CREEK THE MECCA OF THE PIONEERS OF 1875.
French creek was the " Mecca " towards which the
hundreds of gold-seekers, who came to the Black Hills
during the year 1875, first turned their eager faces. It had
already become historic. It was on the borders of French
creek, that Ross and McKay, the staunch miners who
accompanied the Custer Expedition, found their most en-
couraging prospects. On French creek, also, on Decem-
ber 23d, just as the winter's sun was sinking behind the
western Hills the boys of 1874 panned out the first shin-
ing particles, that gladdened their eyes and realized their
hopes; and, too, on one of its banks, mid winter's snows
and storms they built, in an incredibly short space of time,
the strongest fortification of the kind ever constructed on
the Western frontier, as well as the cabins within its walls,
cabins that afforded temporary shelter and protection to
hundreds of the miners and tenderfeet who subsequently
came to the Hills. On the banks of French creek was
washed out, with the aid of a rudely constructed rocker,
the bright, coarse gold that was conveyed by two plucky
men, in dead of winter, hundreds of miles over a bleak
prairie, to Sioux City, to convince the world that gold in
the Black Hills was not a myth, but a glittering reality.
This French creek gold then, was the lodestone that at-
tracted so many to that locality in 1875. I think it may
be safely stated that nine-tenths of the miners coming into
the Hills during that year, did their first prospecting on
French creek, whence they scattered out to explore other
localities, principally along the streams, having their head-
142 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
waters in the Harney Peak area, viz. : Spring, Rapid, Box
Elder, and Castle creeks, some going north into the Bear
Lodge region, where it is claimed numerous large-sized nug-
orets were found. Along the above named streams placer
gold was discovered, in perhaps paying quantities, but the
o-lowing reports that were, during that summer, scattered
broadcast over the land were doubtless greatly exaggerated,
or perhaps in some instances the product of an exuberant
fancy. However, the visible evidences of the real metal in
the hands of many honest and legitimate miners, were
sufficient to establish the fact that the Black Hills was des-
tined to become pre-eminently a gold-bearing country and
sufficiently encouraging to induce all classes, reckless of
consequences, to join in the race towards the many gates
opening into the Hills.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 143
CHAPTEE XII.
SOME OF THE PIONEERS OF 1875, AND HOW THEY GOT TO
THE BLACK HILLS.
Among the many who were attracted to the Black Hills
during the first year of their civilized, or it would better
be said, half-civilized, existence, and who were intimately
identified with their early history and subsequent develop-
ment, are the following, naming them in the order of their
arrival as to date as far as known : Dr. D. W. Flick, Sam'l
Shankland, A. D. Trask, Joseph Reynolds, Thos. Hooper,
Frank Bryant, VVm. Lardner, H. B. Young, Emil Faust,
V. P. Shenn, and John R. Brennan.
Besides those above named there are hundreds of others
who were more or less conspicuous figures in the fleeting
drama of 1875, some of whom have long since left the
Hills, others still residents, but of whom the writer could
gain no direct or even indirect information. However, the
experiences of these few, whose adventures have come to
her knowledge, will illustrate those of the majority, per-
haps, of the pioneers of 1875.
Dr. Flick and Mr. Shankland were both members of the
second expedition to embark for the Black Hills in 1875,
and among the few of a large party, who, after great
hardships and exposures, and by a good deal of strategy to
avoid falling into the clutches of the military, which was
then the great bugbear, finally succeeded in reaching their
goal, in the early summer of that year.
Dr. Flick has the distinction of having built the first los:
cabin erected in the Black Hills in 1875, and Mr. Shank-
land was one of the seven men left to guard the property
of the expelled miners during that year, and both have been
residents of the Black Hills since then.
144 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
In this connection it seems apropos that a brief account
be here given of the trying experiences of that second
expedition, which it is believed may prove interesting.
Early in the spring of 1875, a few days after the Gordon
party had slipped quietly away from the banks of the Big
Muddy, a large party of other gold-seeking adventurers,
numbering 150, were gathered at Sioux City, awaiting
transportation to the Black Hills.
They soon entered into contract with the H. N. Witcher
Transportation Company to carry their goods and equip-
ments to the Black Hills for eight cents per pound avoir-
dupois, then with a few saddle horses and a small pack train
the expedition started on its journey westward, under the
pilotage of Eaf Witcher, along the Niobrara river, south
of the Nebraska State line, and thus quite outside of the
Indian reservation.
When about 300 miles from Sioux City, near the point
where Gordon's train had been captured and burned a short
time before, the expedition was overtaken and joined by
another party of something more than 100 men, under the
guidance of Capt. Ely, of which Judge Rhinehart, now of
Lead City, was a member, making altogether a formidable
asfsregation.
The journey westward proved an uneventful one until
reaching Snake river, a small tributary of the Niobrara,
where an event occurred which somewhat dampened the
ardor of the gold-seekers, and threatened the success and
even the very existence of the expedition itself. Up to
that time, although the party had been constantly on the
alert, through fear of governmental interference, no serious
apprehension had been felt of an attack by the Indians.
However, at this point they were made unpleasantly aware
that Indians in plenty were near at hand.
One day a half dozen of the party, who had been de-
tailed to serve as scouts along the line of march, came rush-
ing headlong and excited into line, bringing the startling
information that a large band of from 1,500 to 2,000
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 145
Indians had been encountered, who had relieved them of
their blankets. As a matter of fact there were only 250
of the savages — quite enough, however, to strike terror to
the heart of a tenderfoot. Naturally almost the entire party
was thrown into a state of intense excitement and alarm ;
some wrung their hands and wept, while the majority at
once proceeded to put the expedition on a substantial war
footing. Selecting a favorable position the wagons of the
train were quickly formed into a kind of corral for the pro-
tection^of the stock; the tents were pitched outside, their
guns got in readiness, and thus fortified and equipped they
awaited in fear and trembling the expected enemy.
At this juncture Dr. Flick, who did not believe in
the hostility of the Indians, electrified the expedition by
announcing- his readiness to so in search of the savage rob-
bers, and try to recover the lost blankets, provided one of
the men who had been relieved of their property would go
with him to locate the Indians. One of the scouts reluc-
tantly consented to risk his life in an attempt to regain
possession of his almost indispensable bedding. So the
two started bravely out in the probable direction of the
Indians, but had not proceeded far, when, upon reaching
the summit of a hill, they discovered coming up on the
opposite side, a legion of Indians making directly towards
them. Waiting until they had nearly reached the brow
of the hill, the two men faced about, and re-
turned to camp, followed closely by the Indians,
who, when within a short distance of the camp,
halted, presumably to hold a council of either war or
peace. After a brief deliberation, twelve of the band,
headed by their chief. Lame Lance, advanced a safe dis-
tance directly towards the camp of the pale-faces (and
'Some of them were abnormally pale at the time), when
they laid their guns on the ground, in token of their
peaceable intentions, and went through a sort of pantomime,
very expressive to those who understood its significance,
and which, being interpreted, meant *' We good Injuns."
10
146 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Upon being beckoned to approach, they came into camp,
leaving their guns on the ground, where they had laid them.
The chief, in the manner characteristic of his race, stated
that the band were merely on a hunting expedition, and in
proof of the honesty of his statement presented a document
signed by the Secretary of the Interior permitting them to
hunt off their reservation. After the usual amount of
begging — they are born beggars, these red men of the
plains — the twelve braves returned peaceably to their own
camp, carrying with them a generous supply of crackers,
sugar, tobacco, etc. Emboldened by this success, numerous
others of the band came into the camp of the expedition
asking for more, and when refused, they became insolent
and defiant, making themselves exceedingly troublesome,
by peering into the wagons of the train, as if determined
to help themselves to whatever they wanted.
Finally, however, they were driven away and a strong
guard of armed men placed around the camp and corral.
As the members of the expedition, for the most part, had
but small confidence in the good faith of their savage
neighbors, believing the old saying that there are " no good
Indians but dead Indians," their camp in plain view
seemed a constant menace to their security, and thus no
sleep came to their eyes nor slumber to their eyelids that
night, with the exception of a few vvho were made of
sterner stuff. Anxious to put miles of distance between
the two camps, bright and early the next morning the
train resumed its march directl}^ westward, but not towards
the Black Hills. From this time the Black Hills fever
began rapidly to wane. Apparently the train and mem-
bers of the expedition, the majority of whom were tender-
feet, had no intention of directing their course towards the
Hills, seeming determined to keep outside of the Indian
reservation. A few who were really anxious to go to the
Black Hills insisted that the train cross the Nebraska line
into the reservation and make directly for the Hills, and
thus, perhaps, avoid collision with the military. It was
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 147
becoming plainly evident that the expedition was doomed
to go to pieces. At this juncture Dr. Flick, hoping to
ward off such a disaster, mounted a wagon — I suspect
there were no stumps thereal)Outs — and made a vigorous
speech, urging the duty of loyalty on the part of every
member to the original purpose of the expedition, insisting
that fear of Indian hostilities was utterly groundless, etc.,
and, as a matter of fact, there was but little danger from
that quarter, at that early date in 1875, as by the summary
removal of the pioneers of 1874 from the stockade, a short
time before, the government had shown a determination to
respect the treaty rights of the Indians, and they were
satisfied.
On reaching the mouth of Antelope creek, about 400
miles from Sioux City and eighteen miles south of the
Nebraska State line, the climax came. The roll of mem-
bers being called, out of the entire expedition only four-
teen men signified a willingness to undertake the rest of the
journey to the Black Hills. Early the next morning, June
23d, 1875, during the " wee sma'" hours, a small party with
the following personnel : Messrs. Dunlap, Shankland, Flick,
Berry, Wright, Timmish, Burns, Mitchell, Bushnell, At-
chinson, Webster, Nelson, and Forbes, with eight pack an-
imals, left the expedition to its fate, and pulled out for their
original destination, — Valentine Dunlap being constituted
as guide. At 12 o'clock the next night, after traveling over
a bluffy country, with short intervals of rest, the little
party camped on the head of White Earth creek, where
they partook of a midnight supper of cold beans, bread
and cofi"ee. At daylight they started out towards the
White Earth river — camping at 9 o'clock a. m. for break-
fast. They had hardly commenced their meal, before two
Indians were discovered on a bluff above their camp, and
supposing them to be government scouts, they deemed it
advisable to pack up without finishing their breakfast and
hurry on towards the Hills, before being overhauled by
the military. Hungry and tired as they were — having
148 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
been in camp onl}^ about forty minutes, they quickly packed
ttieir belongings and traveled on with their jaded animals,
as rapidly as possible over the rough untraveled country
towards the Black Hills, until they had put about twenty-
five miles between them and the point where they had seen
the supposed government scouts, — when, having been
fortunate in finding a small slough or depression on the
prairie, affording sufficient water for the purpose, they
camped, prepared and drank a cup of coffee, then threw
themselves down on the broad prairie for a few hours'
sleep. After a short rest, they started out again, traveling
with all the speed of which their worn-out pack animals
were capable, reaching Wounded Knee at 11 o'clock at
night, where they went into camp. Their sole anxiety and
desire was to escape discovery and arrest by the soldiers,
who they feared were then warm on their trail. We must
not lose sight of the fact, that this adventurous little band
were traveling on foot, and leading their pack mules, which,
of course, greatly increased the danger of discovery; — for
whoever heard of a mule that would not, without the slight-
est compunction, betray even his very best friend?
On the evening of the third day after leaving
the expedition the party arrived at the White Earth
river, completely exhausted from almost constant travel
and loss of sleep. Crossing that stream the next
morning and going on in the direction of the
Hills about twelve miles, they suddenly found them-
selves confronted on every hand by a bewildering maze of
seemingly insurmountable bluffs. The very worst portion
of the Bad Lands, in all their confusing grotesqueness,
stared them in the face. The guide (Dunlap), after having
climbed to the summit of one of the high chalky bluffs to
survey the prospect, declared that it would be impossible
to scale their precipitous sides with the pack mules, and if
they attempted to go round them, they would become irre-
mediably lost amid the intricate labyrinths of the cuts,
gulches, gorges, etc. *' We must go back on our trail, and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 149
try to find a more practicable route," said the guide. The
majority of the party, relying upon the judgment of their
leader, in whom they reposed the utmost confidence, as he
claimed to be an experienced frontiersman and to have
spent several years among the Indians, seemed willing to
follow his advice. Dr. Flick alone strenuously opposed
any retrograde movement, preferring to take the chance of
being lost among the gloomy defiles of the Bad Lands
rather than invite the extreme probability of running head-
long right into the arms of a body of United States troop-
ers. " I, for one, shall no longer follow the leadership of
a man who would guide us blindly back into the very
danger we have been most anxious to avoid," said the doc-
tor. " I propose going to the Black Hills right along this
line, and those of you who turn back will have good reason
to regret it," he continued.
After spending some time in discussing the situation
pro and con, the doctor, who had resolved to push
his way in a direct line to the Hills at all hazards,
began making preparation for his lone journej' amid
many protests. After putting together his outfit for
the trip, the problem of transportation came up for
solution. To carry his blankets and other equipments
with sufficient provisions for an indefinite time, seemed
An impossibility. Finally, after a great deal of per-
suasion, Chas. Webster, who held an undivided half
interest in a diminutive, half-starved pack pony, with a
saddle-worn abrasion on his back as large as the crown of a
man's hat, in which the doctor also held a proprietary
interest, was induced to risk the undertaking. "There's
no danger of our getting lost. When we come to a hill we
can't climb, we'll just go around it. We'll get to the Hills
all right, and it won't take us many days, either," urged the
doctor ; " and," he continued, " when we get there, I believe
we shallfind someone from whom we can get supplies enough
to keep us from starving, at least."
After packing the little undivided pony with such arti-
150 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
cles only as might be most needed, thus reducing the load
to the least possible minimum of weight, the two plucky
men started, straight as the swallows fly, for the Black
Hills, uncertain as to what their fate might be. Upon
woins: a little distance, thev turned and waved their hands
(I suspect they had no handkerchiefs) in token of fare-
well to their comrades, whom they expected never to see
again.
Let us now leave the twelve who are about to double on
their trail, and follow the two lone adventurers into the
Hills. After a hard day's march over and around the
barren precipitous bluff, through the ashes of that desolate
region, — which has aptly been compared to Hades with
its fires extinguished — they had the unexpected good for-
tune of camping that first night on the opposite bank of
the Cheyenne river. Early the next morning, after a
fruo-al breakfast of bread alone, thev resumed their march
Hills-ward, reaching the mouth of a clear, sparkling
stream, teeming with fish, at 8 p. m. June 27th, where
they camped for the night. The next morning they pro-
ceeded with much difficulty up the stream, which the
doctor named "Tanglefoot" — Squaw creek, a branch of
Battle creek — because of the almost impenetrable growlh
of underbrush along its banks. "I thought it the most
beautiful stream I ever laid eyes upon," related the doctor.
The sight of the fish was certainly one which might have
filled the heart of Isaac Walton's least ardent disciple with
great gladness, — and how much more, then, that of the
two half-famished pilgrims who had not tasted meat for
many days.
Did you find no game on your journey into the Hills,
Doctor? " I inquired. " Oh, yes, plenty of it; elk, deer,
grouse, and other game, but I did not dare to shoot for fear
of discovery," replied the doctor. What a shining example
of self-denial, to be sure, for a crack sportsman, who could
at that time, in nine cases out of ten, bring down a bird
on the wins at the first shot.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 151
It was with extreme difficulty that our two travelers
pushed their way up through the heavy uodergrowth,
along the beautiful "Tanglefoot," with their frail pony,
handicapyjed as he was with his load of blankets, beans, and
camp paraphernalia.
" VV^by," said the doctor, "our poor little pack-horse
became so weak that we actually had to push him up hill."
They were at last forced to lighten his load, by throwing
off their supply of beans of forty pounds avoirdupois,
which they thought could safely be dispensed with, as they
had not indulged in the luxury of beans since leaving the
Cheyenne river, the hazard involved in cooking them being
considered too great ; besides, everything was wet and
sodden, as it rained continuosly during their entire trip.
Any gold hunters, prospecting along Tanglefoot Gulch,
during the few succeeding weeks, mioht have found the
flotsam and jetsam of a small cargo of Black Hills " grub,"
if not gold, to reward them for their search. Going north
after leaving Tanglefoot, they soon found themselves at
or near the base of Harney's Peak, and on the fifth day
after leaving their companions in the Bad Lands, they
climbed the dizzy heights to the summit of one of the
jagged peaks of that ridge of the Harney Peak range
called the " Needles," and looked down and abroad upon
the glorious panorama of wooded hill, green valley, and
smiling glade — a scene more beautiful, perchance, than
had ever before dawned upon their visions. No sign, how-
ever, of human life and activity was visible in all the wide
expanse. Can we be the only human beings in the Black
Hills? was the mental query that occurred to them. Not
a very cheering possibility truly to the two solitary men
amid the fastnesses without supplies.
Descending from their lofty outlook into the valley below
they traveled on and soon dropped into the valley of a little
bubbling stream (Willow creek) dancing gaily southward
into French creek. Cautiously descending the stream,
and watching closely for some trace of human occupancy, —
152 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
either soldiers, miners, or Indians, they were soon rewarded
by discovering, clearly silhouetted against the southern
sky, what appeared to be the figure of a man, moving along
the crest of a distant hill, in advance of them. Keeping
the object ever in view, they hurried on at a rapid pace,
until within hailing distance, when the doctor, making a
kind of trumpet of both hands, called out through it in his
most sonorous and penetrating tones: " Hullo there, white
man or Indian?"
"Indian," came back in the unmistakable but welcome
accents of a white man.
In double quick, the two tired and hungry men climbed
the hill and were at his side.
" My name is Flick," said the doctor, at the same time
extending his hand, " and my companion's name is Web-
ster," he added, introducing his fellow-lraveler.
"My name is Van Horn, and there is my camp," re-
turned the man pointing to a group of tents, and a number
of canvas-covered wagons, just at the foot of the hill.
" Well," ventured the doctor, " we are tired and raven-
ously hungry, and nearly barefoot, as you can see, and
would like some breakfast. We have eaten nothing for
the past five days but bread straight, — and bread made of
flour and water alone, at that."
They were at once conducted to the camp below, and
treated with the miner's proverbial hospitality, to a good
square rdiner's meal, the first in many days. Thus, after
a hard journey over hills, across yawning ravines, through
valley and glade, sleeping on the ground at night without
tents to protect them from the rain that had drizzled down
almost unceasingly both day and night, and living on
bread alone, our two heroic pioneers had at length found
a temporary haven of rest.
After spending a few days, enjo3nng the prodigal hospi-
tality of Van Horn's camp, meanwhile prospecting a little
on their own account, they made their way to the military
headquarters of Col. Dodge's command, then stationed at
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 153
the stockade near Custer. Here the doctor found and in-
troduced himself to Capt. G. Russell of the Third United
States Cavalry, and a brother mason, to whom he
made known their most urgent needs. It Avill be remem-
bered that they had been forced to throw overboard their
cargo of supplies, on the Tanglefoot, and, in consequence,
were almost, if not entirely, out of the staple articles of
diet.
After an interchange of fraternal grips, Captain Russell
asked, " Now, Doctor, what can I do for you? "
" Well, first I need a pair of boots, as you can plainly
see," answered the doctor, at the same time, holding up
for the captain's inspection what, by a liberal stretch of
the imagination, might once have been considered a very
respectable boot, but which, by virtue of mile after mile
of travel on foot, through bush and bracken, and over
jagged rocks, had well-nigh lost all resemblance to the
"thing of beauty" and of pride, it once had been.
" Number nine will do." " Next, I want about twenty-
five pounds of bacon and a sack of flour," and — "Oh,
yes, I would like a can of baking powder and a modicum
of salt," concluded the doctor.
The articles were promptly ordered brought from the
commissary stores, and delivered without price or condi-
tions.
Some days after. Doctor Flick, no longer afraid to shoot,
captured an immense mountain grizzly, whose shaggy
cuticle he presented to Capt. Russell, with his compli-
ments,— not Bruin's compliments but the doctor's.
We will now go back and ascertain the fate of Dunlap
and his trusty followers. As soon as the two deserters
from their ranks had disappeared behind an intervening
bluff in the Bad Lands, they, with some misgivings doubt-
less, as to the consequences, commenced their backward
march towards the White Earth river, upon reaching
which they turned up the stream in search of "Sawyer's
trail," which the guide assured them was not far distant.
154 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
The party had not proceeded more than a half mile when a
bunch of horses was seen grazing on the river bottoms not
more than a mile away. Bringing them into nearer view
by the aid of a magnifying glass, they were discovered to
be United States cavalry horses. Instantly realizing their
peril, they quickly led their horses behind a convenient
bluff, where a hurried consultation was held as to the best
plan of escape from the soldiers, whose mission they felt
convinced was expressly to capture them. " Now we are
in for it," said the guide in a low voice. They really
were in pretty close quarters, as the general topography of
the country made it impossible for them to fall back or
advance any distance from their position behind the bluff
without coming directly into view. Hoping to discover
some way out of their dilemma, the guide crept stealthily
up to the edge of the bluff on his hands and feet, when he
saw the troopers already mounted and about to march out
on their trail of the day before, which they had just left in
search of " Sawyer's trail."
It seemed certain that in half an hour the soldiers would
trace them to their hiding-place, in view of which certainty
they became intensely excited. " Some of us will prob-
ably be captured, in any event, and all of us if we remain
together," said the guide. " We had better separate, take
different directions, and hide ourselves as best we can until
dark, when possibly some of us, under cover of the night,
may effect our escape," he urged. Acting upon this
advice, without loss of time the members of the " hemmed
in " little party, with their respective belongings, scattered
out, panic-stricken, in ever}"" direction — every man for
himself.
Shankland, Berry, Wright, and Timmish started off in
the direction of the river, which they hoped to reach in
time to hide themselves and animals among the timber and
brush along its banks. Traveling on with their utmost
speed through the friendly protection of the brush, not
daring to take time to look back, thinking the soldiers
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 155
might be right upon them, they fortunately soon found a
hiding-place among the rocks of a deep canyon making out
from the river, and admirably fitted by nature for such a
purpose, where they remained until night safe from imme-
diate capture at least. Before entering their " rocky
retreat " they were joined by Porter and Forbes, who had
followed almost directly upon their heels in their precipi-
tous flight. When darkness at last spread over them its
protecting wings they breathed more freely, and ventured
out from their confined quarters among the rocks, in search
of a more roomy spot, where they could spread their blank-
ets for a much-needed rest and sleep, and thus forget for a
time their dangerous environments. Thinking themselves
quite safe from discovery, as their feet had left no prints
on the hard rock leading to their position in the canyon,
they decided to remain for a few days for recuperation,
during which time they subsisted entirely upon uncooked
food, not deeming it safe to build fires.
Becoming tired of the general monotony ot life in the
canyon, on the second morning, ere the dawn of day, they
led their horses out of their retreat and iigain took up their
line of march towards the Black Hills, haunted by an ever-
present fear of arrest by the military. The details of the
march into the Hills need not be narrated at length. A
brief outline, marked by a few of the principal incidents
of the journey, being deemed sufficient.
The party soon came to an inviting little grove convenient
to water, where they camped and remained for two days and
three nights, taking frequent observations, meanwhile, from
an adjacent hill, looking for government scouts. Upon
one occasion they were rewarded by seeing two mounted
men about a half-mile distant, which again threw them into
a panic ; fortunately, however, they were not discovered.
" We talked in whispers, and took every precaution against
discovery, and just waited for fate to decide our destiny,"
related my informant.
On the third day they resumed their march, and after
156
THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
traveling about twelve miles over a level prairie country,
they came to the ever-dreaded Mauvaises Terres, where in
one of the deep gorges they camped for the night, feeling,
for once, secure from arrest — as they thought neither man
nor beast could often be tempted to enter such a desolate
region. The next day they made their way through a long
winding canyon, too narrow in places, to admit of pas-
sage, often being compelled to widen the same by the use
of picks, and sometimes being obliged to unpack and
carry their freight on their backs through the more
difficult places, and finally, after ten mortal hours of toil-
ing through its devious windings they emerged into a flat
country where, finding a little water of very inferior quality,
the}^ camped for the night.
The next day they leached and crossed the Cheyenne
river, then traveling on with light hearts, but very tired
feet, keeping all the time a sharp lookout for scouts,
they reached what they called Trout creek, near the foot-
hills, July 4th, where they spent the night without shelter
of any kind from the furious rain-storm which occurred dur-
ing the night. They started from camp the next morning,
drenched to the skin, but joyous in the bright anticipation
that, before the setting of the sun, they would besafely in the
Black Hills, and l)eyond all danger of pursuit from the rear.
However, in consequence of a heavy storm, which pre-
vailed throughout the day, they were compelled to take
refuge in a deep gorge in the foot-hills near which they
found their first gold, panning out as high as ten cents to
the pan. Notwithstanding these encouraging prospects,
owing to a scarcity of water and danger of capture, they
decided not to drive their stakes at that point, but proceed
further into the mountains.
The following day, July 6th, after traveling about fifteen
or twenty miles, they found themselves among the moun-
tain ranges. Apprehending now but little danger of cap-
ture, they deemed it safe to halt for a couple of days and
prospect a little as they went. Accordingly on July 7th,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 157
Shankhmd, Berr3',iind Porter, went about six miles further
into the mountains, looking for gold, returning to catnp
at nicrht, with nothins; but a mountain groiiso to reward
them for their day's labor — their first game in the Hills,
which, being dressed, was impaled on the end of u pointed
stick, cooked before a pitch pine fire, and eaten without
salt for supper. The next day, July 5th, the same party
mounted their horses and rode back to the gulch where the
gold had been discovered, for the purpose of ascertaining
whether water could be found which might be conducted
by means of a ditch to the point prospected, in which they
were wholly unsuccessful.
The trip, however, proved not altogether without com-
pensation, ns they had the satisfaction of killing a huge
mountain grizzly, whose choice cuts furnished their camp
with the luxury of bear's meat for a few days.
On July 9th, after partaking of a breakfast of " bear on
slapjack," they moved on some eight or ten miles and
halted at the junction of two small streams, where the day
was spent in supplying their sadly depleted larders with the
fish in which the stream abounded. Following up the
southwestern branch of the stream, some nine miles over a
rough, unbroken country, they came upon the deserted
camp of their former guide (Dunlap), which seemed to
have been vacated not more than three hours before. The
names Valentine Dunlap and Oaks Texas were discovered
written in pencil on a birch tree near the camp.
Following up Dunlap's trail until all trace of it was lost,
then keeping on in a southerly direction for several miles,
they again came into the trail of their quandom guide,
whom they were exceedingly anxious to overtake, that they
might learn something of the fate of the other members of
the party. With this object in view, they hurried along
on the fresh trail of their guide over several miles of
heavily wooded country into an extensive park, with a
stream of water running through its center (Custer's Park).
Ever watchful were they for some evidence of the presence
158 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
of the military, who, if in the country, thej suspected
might be encamped not many miles from the base
of Harney's Peak. For the purpose of reconnoitering
the vicinity, Shankland and Porter mounted their
horses and rode out to an elevated point, about
two miles from camp, from where they discovered a
large number of horses and mules and four men herdino^
them. " We could hear the men chopping wood in their
camp and also hear the dogs barking. We did not
know what party it was, but thought it might be
Jenny's military escort. Our plan was to steal quietly
into the vicinity of the camp, and wait for an op-
portunity to interview some one happening to be out
alone," related my informant, Mr. Shankland. Early the
following morning, before the sun had tipped the lofty
peaks, Shankland and Berry started out on foot to locate
the military camp which they felt assured was not far
away, soon coming to a point where the whole camp stood
out in bold relief, before they were aware of its immediate
vicinity. Falling back out of sight, they counseled to-
gether as to the best method of procedure, finally agreeing
to climb up behind a large cliff of rocks, that loomed up
not more than two hundred yards from the center of the
camp, from where much that was said could be distinctly
heard and understood, " We might have been taken for a
couple of representatives of the Lo family, contemplating
a raid upon the camp," said Mr. Shankland.
We will now leave the vigilant men behind the cliffs
overlooking the camp of Col. Dodge's command on
French creek, and go back along the line to the mouth of
Antelope creek, where, nearly three weeks since, we left
THE MAJOR PART OF THE EXPEDITION.
After the small party of fourteen men left the expedition
for the Black Hills on the morning of Juue 23d, the train
at once pulled out westward until reaching what is called
the " Sidney Cut-off," where another separation took
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
159
place. From this point some of tlie party turned their
faces towards the Black Hills, while the majority took up
their line of march to Sidney, Nebraska, whence they
scattered where they listed.
Among those who went towards the Hills from the
Sidney Cut-off was Judge Rinehart, now of Lead City.
No doubt many of the expeditions embarking for the Black
Hills in 1875 may have had an equally trying if not
altogether similar experience.
160 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAP TEE XIII.
HOW SOME OF THE PIONEERS FOOLED UNCLE SAM.
The following account of how Joe Reynolds and his two
companions bribed the government employees at old Fort
Laramie to smuggle them across the swollen Platte on the
government ferry boat, will illustrate some of the cunningly
devised artifices practiced by gold-seeking adventurers to
elude the watchfulness of Uncle Sam's soldiers at that
frontier post in 1875, and will also show what imperfect
knowledge some of them had of the geography of the Black
Hills.
It was early in May, 1875, very soon after the reuioval
of the Collins and Russell party from the stockade that
Joseph Reynolds, Jas. Corneille, and Billy Jacobs, of
Georgetown, Colorado, moved by an inspiration, suddenly
made up their minds to go to the Black Hills. It did not
take them long to put themselves in light marching order,
for within forty-eight hours after their hasty decision they
were equipped with good saddle horses, pack animals, guns,
and provisions for sixty days, and on their way to the New
Eldorado. Included in their outfit was a bottle of '* anti-
dote " for sudden colds, snake bites, and kindred maladies,
which was to be used solely for medicinal purposes.
On reaching Fort Laramie, they found the Platte river
swollen away out of its banks, and more than two hundred
other Black Hill adventurers encamped nearby, waiting for
the river to get down to low water-mark, so that they
might steal across undercover of night, away from the mili-
tary reservation into the Sioux territory. Finding further
progress barred for the time being, the trio decided after
studying the situation, to leave their stock of supplies at
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 1(31
the fort in charge of one of their number, while the other
two made a flying trip to the Hills, with rations for ten
days, to examine their resources, the result of which was to
determine their future course. But how to get across the
turbulent river was 3'et an unsolved problem.
In the belief that every man has his price, the}' decided
finally to offer a bribe to the wagonmaster of a govern-
ment train, with Avhom they had fallen in on their way
from Cheyenne to Fort Laramie, who was about to board
the ferry with a load of Indian supplies for Red Cloud
Agency, to take them across the river as a part of his outfit.
So Joe, as spokesman of the party, approached the wagon-
master, and after a short preliminary talk leading up to
the delicate proposition he purposed making, laid bare his
plans. He told him he would give him ten round dollars
to slip his little party across the river with his load of
Indian freight, and explained how it could be done without
detection.
As the plan outlined by Joe seemed both feasible and
safe, the wagon-master, after a little apparent hesitancy,
said: "All right, I'll do it; make your arrangements
and we'll drive onto the boat."
Following closely along the lines dictated by Joe, they
were soon taken across the river without exciting any sus-
picion. While in transit, Corneile, the custodian of the
flask, bethought him that, inasmuch as they would want to
recross the ferry in the near future, it would be the part of
wisdom to cultivate the friendship of the ferryman. So,
pulling the flask from his pocket, and holding it tempt-
ingly towards him, said, blandly, " Won't you take some-
thing?" "Well, yes, I don't care if I do," responded
the ferryman with alacrity, — and he did.
After traveling about twenty miles with the train, they
diverged to the north — the trainmaster having told them
that by keeping due north he thought they would strike
French creek. So north they went, striking the Hills
somewhere on their western limits on May 30th, 1875.
11
162 THE BLACK HILLS ; OH,
Continuing in the same direction, they made a complete
"arc of a circle" around the western and northern limits
of the Hills, climl)inor to the summit of each prominent
point to take their bearings, and, if possible, locate French
creek.
It is needless to delay the narrative, by giving the details
of their erratic wanderings. Let it suffice to state that they
climbed successively, Inyan Kara, Devil's Tower, Bear
Lodge Peak — where, while waiting for a dense fog to clear
away, they did some prospecting with fairly encouraging re-
sults— then through Spearfish valley and south to Custer's
Peak, and finally, on the 15th day of June, they climbed
to the bald summit of Harne^^'s Peak, where for the first
time they located French creek which they reached on the
same day in a sorry condition.
They had been on the march for twenty days, with-
out having seen a white man, ten of which they had
subsisted solely on venison straight, without salt. The
next day, while prospecting in a shallow tunnel which had
been dug by the stockade hoys, they heard the sound of
human voices, which they feared might belong to Indians;
but soon distinguishing the accents of their own beloved
vernacular, they hastily emerged from the tunnel to meet
and greet their white brothers, one of whom proved to be
A. D. Trask, now of Pactola, Pennington County. No
sooner was the hearty interchange of greetings over than
Reynolds asked Trask how much " grub " he had in his
party. " Grub ! " answered Trask, " well, we have a small
jar of salt that I found cached under one of the cabins in
the stockade which has been our main diet for the past
twenty-four hours." Now, we all know that salt as a con-
diment is all right, but very unsatisfactory as a steady
diet. " Have you more supplies than you really need? "
inquired Trask of Reynolds. " More than we really
need ! Why, man alive, we haven't had a morsel to eat for
ten days but venison, and venison without salt at that," an-
swered Reynolds. " We have plenty of that and to spare,"
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 163
added Reynolds, cheerfully ; " and as you have the salt, we
shall fare pretty well." By the way, that little jar of salt
is the only single article cached by the stockade party that
has come to the writer's knowledge.
Within the next two days quite a number put in an ap-
pearance at the stockade, when a miners' meeting was
called, for the purpose of organizing a mining district on
French creek. The meeting, at which sixteen men were
present, was held in the open, a short distance above
where Custer City now stands. Officers were chosen, a
district organized, rules and regulations to govern the same
were passed and a recorder duly elected, but, as the min-
utes of the meeting have been lost, it is impossible to give
details of its proceedings. It is related, however, that an
exceedingly warm discussion was had, relative to the rule
establishing the size of placer claims, the minority insisting
upon twenty acres, the majority favoring 300 feet in length
along the gulch, from rim to rim, which was the rule estab-
lished. This is believed to be the first mining district ever
organized in the Black Hills, and A. D. Trask, of Pactola,
the first recorder chosen.
The morning after the meeting, the two men, having be-
come convinced that the Black Hills was a pretty good
country, and also that a more varied diet would prove con-
ducive to health, mounted their horses and hied them away
to their base of supplies at Fort Laramie. On their appear-
ance at the ferry landing, the ferryman, recognizing them,
seemed much surprised at the puzzling situation, which
they soon made clear by confessing that they had been to
the Black Hills, and that their joining the train was merely a
bit of strategy. They then and there entered into a conspir-
acy with the ferryman, by which he was to take them across
the river in three days for a consideration of ten dollars.
According to the plan they were to come to the landing at
11 o'clock p. m. of the third day and scratch on the can-
vas at the back of his tent, when he was to slip quietly out
and shove them with their outfits across. The Platte river
164 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
was not yet fordable and the 200 or more gold-hunters were
still awaiting near its banks.
As it ueared the eleventh watch of the night of the third
day, Reynolds, Corneile, and Jacobs, led their horses away
from camp and made a circuit around the outer limits of
the post, to avoid the sentinels who were placed at intervals
to guard the garrison against external savage attack, or in-
ternal conspiracy. Stealthily and noiselessly they were
picking their way towards the ferry landing without the
clatter of a hoof, — the horses seeming to appreciate the
necessity for caution, when like a thunderbolt from a
cloudless sky, they were startled nearly out of their boots,
by the [)rolonged cry of " Eleven o'clock and all is well,'''
but a few yards away from them. They came to a dead halt,
paralyzed, scarcely daring to breathe. The darkness fav-
ored them, for the watchman passed around on his beat, so
near that with an outstretched arm they could have almost
touched him, but he did not discover them. As soon as the
sound of his footsteps died away they hurried to the land-
ing, led their horses over the approach, whose shifting sands
gave back no sound, onto the ferry.
The signal was given but not a word was spoken. The
ferryman came quietly out, unlocked the ferry, shoved
them across and received his price.
They went again north to Bear Lodge Peak, where they
prospected for a short time, thence to French creek, where
they remained prospecting for both placer and quartz until
ordered out by Gen. Crook, in August of that year. Mr.
Reynolds, with commendable enterprise, resolved not to
leave the Hills, without taking with him something upon
which to base an estimate of their mineral richness, so
during the five days grace allowed the miners in which to
make necessary arrangements to leave the Hills, he had
2,250 pounds of quartz mined from a ledge, situated about
three and one-half miles above Custer City, then employed
the Case Brothers, who had a wagon and team, to transport
the same to Cheyenne, paying them therefor two cents per
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF tAe DAKOTAHS. 105
pound, or $45 for the load. On reaching Cheyenne he
sampled the ore and sent it to Georgetown, Colorado, to be
tested. According to certificates of assay, the highest
fjrade samples yielded seventeen dollars of gold per ton of
quartz. That was the first ton of quartz of any kind,
transported out of the Black Hills for treatment.
Robert Florman, who had prior to his coming lo the
Black Hills spent many years of his active life in a number
of the most prominent mining regions of the United States,
notably Colorado, Montana and New Mexico, in which he
succeeded by shrewdness and unflagging energy in realiz-
ing several handsome fortunes, only to be lost in other less
fortunate mining speculations, made his advent on French
creek on July 14th, 1875. After a short stay on that
stream, he went north to S[>ring creek, near the present
site of Hill City, where he prospected quite extensively for
placer gold, and also for gold in quartz during the summer
of 1875, leaving the Hills late in the fall of that year.
Returning to the northern Hills with his family in the early
spring of 1876, he was fortunate in securing by purchase,
a claim on the famous " Deadwood Gulch," where he
remained as long as the working of his claim proved
profitable.
Mr. Florman afterwards became engaged in several other
mining enterprises throughout the Hills, becoming in 1885
or 1886 a resident of Rapid City, to which he has unre-
servedly pinned his faith to the present time. He erected
a number of the finest, most substantial, as well as the
most expensive business blocks in Rapid City, and in doing
this he staked his all upon the '' hazard of a die," and lost.
Mr. Florman by his thorough and extended knowledge of
mines and mining and sagacity will doubtless yet wrest a
fortune from the wonderful mineral resources of our coun-
try. What Mr. Florman does not know about ores of
various kinds is hardly worth knowing.
166 THrf BLACK HILLS ; OR,
As apropos to the above, I will here rehite a brief story,
in which is interwoven a sad episode, of the journey of Mr.
and Mrs. Florman with their three little children from
Cheyenne to the Black Hills in the spring of 1876, which
forcibly illustrates the pluck, the nerve, the real heroism
of one of the women pioneers of the Black Hills. As all
early pioneers traveling over that route have good reason
to remember, every step of the journey after leaving the
protection of Fort Laramie was then menaced by the most
deadly peril, yet in the face of this, almost alone most of
the way, every breeze wafting back to them reports of the
terrible Indian atrocities being perpetrated farther on
towards the Hills, they with their helpless little children
pushed resolutely onward to their destination.
Women of less courage and determination could scarcely
have borne the intense mental and physical strain of such a
journey under like circumstances.
Mr. Florman and family, with six men, arrived at the
stage station, on the Cheyenne river, on or about April
24th, 1876, where they found encamped a party of about
forty emigrants, including a number of women, in the most
intense excitement and alarm. Here they also found ample
evidence that the red demons had been putting in their
murderous work. The four horses belonging to the
Cheyenne and Custer Stage Company had just arrived at
the station, brinsing in the four men of Col. Brown's
party, who had been attacked and dangerously wounded, —
one fatally, — only a few miles up Red Canyon.
On that same evening, the report of the massacre of the
Metz party was brought into the station, which, of course,
greatly increased the alarm of the already panic-stricken
emigrants. Many, — especially those with families, urged
that the party return at once to Fort Laramie, nearly 200
miles aw^ay. Mr. Florman, however, opposed such a
movement, insisting that the danger of returning to the
post would be greater than that of the short march on to
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 167
Custer, and proposed organizing a party for tlieir mutual
safety, that would be bound to stand by each other tlirough
evil as well as good report, until reaching Custer City.
An organization, consisting of thirty-nine men, was soon
ertected, the members of which were Jules Coffee of Lara-
mie, with fifteen cowboys who had just arrived at the
station; the incoming stage with its ten male passengers ;
one Henry Feuerstein, with six men, and Mr. Florman's
party of eleven, which included Mrs. Florman and their
three children. This party started at 7 o'clock on the fol-
lowing morning, with their armor buckled on for Cus-
ter,— keeping their guns well in hand and their eyes on
the alert for an ambushed foe. All along the trail through
the Red Canyon, at intervals, they discovered shocking evi-
dences of bloody deeds. They first came to the point
where Brown's party had been attacked, the scene indicat-
ing that there had been a fierce conflict.
The stage was found lying in a ravine, riddled with bul-
lets, and besmeared with the blood of the victims; their
belongings, torn and hacked to pieces, lay scattered along
and about the trail. Traveling about two miles further up
the Canyon, they came upon the body of Mrs. Metz, — shot
through the heart — who seemed to have been the last one of
the party killed, as she had, apparently, run away from
the scene of the first attack. Half a mile further on was
found the body of the driver, and about a half mile still
further on lay Mr. Metz, close to the wagon — shot through
the head, and several times through the body. The col-
ored woman was not found by the Florman party.
What was to be done? The bodies could not longer be
left there as food for the vultures and coyotes.
Here Mrs. Florman exhibited the nerve, the spirit of
self-sacrifice, that stamps her as a true heroine. Despite
the probability that the deadly savages might be hiding in
ambush, not far away; despite the fact that the poor,
mutilated bodies had lain for many hours uncared for,
168 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Mrs. Floiman, with the courage of the Spartan women of
old, [)roceedecl at once to aid in preparing the dead — as
far as the limitations would })ermit, for decent Christian
burial. With gentle, tender hands, she helped to straighten
out and compose the distorted members of the murdered
woman ; arrayed the body in the best garments that could
be found among the scattered contents of the rifled trunks ;
then, after washing the face and brushins^ back the dishev-
eled hair with caressing touch, her noble, self-imposed task
was finished.
Brave woman ! May thy crown be set with precious
jewels, whose brilliancy time can never mar !
The remains were then placed in a wagon, that had been
brought for the purpose, and sent back, under escort, to
the Cheyenne stage station for temporary burial.
This grewsome duty being performed, the stage passen-
gers, apparently forgetting their compact, mounted the
stage and started off at a ra»)id pace towards Custer, but
were speedily brought to a dead halt by the loud peremp-
tory cry of, "Halt! or you are dead men." Looking
back they saw Mr. Florman, with gun in hand, [)ointed
directly at them, and believing fiom the dangerous gleam
in his e^-e that he meant business, they prudently halted.
One of the passengers said afterwards: " I tell you, boys,
Mr. Florman looked as though he really meant to shoot."
They excused their course by saying that they considered
the real danger of the journey past. Mr. Florman, how-
ever, thought otherwise, — as any one familiar with the
habits of the Indians would have thought. He knew that
the party were liable, at any moment, to be pounced upon,
from behind some projecting headland or point of rocks,
by the skulking savtiges. On that same evening they
arrived at Pleasant Valley, where they found a large freight
outfit, which give them a feeling of comparative security
for the night. The next morning they pulled out for Cus-
ter, where they arrived at noon, safely within the lines of
the city guards — " the Custer minute men."
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 169
John W. Allen, another representative miner, came to the
Black Hills in the early part of July, 1875. After prospect-
inor at different points on French and Spring creeks — work-
ing for a time, it is stated, with good results on what is
known as '* Stand Off Bar," on the last named stream, he
joined the Jenny Exploring Expedition, with which he
remained during its stay in the Hills, greatly aiding it, by
bis extensive mining knowledge, in ascertaining their
mineral resources. He was a member of the board of
trustees of the first township organization of Custer ;
also in the early spring of 1876 aided in the town-
ship organization of Rapid City, in which he had the
most unbounded faith. So great was his confidence in the
future of the " Gate City," the "Denver " of the Black
Hills, that he induced his less sanguine brother, Jas. W.
Allen, to leave a lucrative business in Cheyenne and come
and get possession of as many town lots in the future
Denver as was possible. Jas. W. Allen, however, took but
little stock in the prospective Denver, declaring, much to the
disgust of his far-sighted brother, that he would not accept
as a gift the whole town-site proposition.
John W. Allen later went to Deadwood, where in com-
pany with other parties, he engaged in extensive placer min-
ing. He, jointly with Col. Daniel Thompson, became the
owner of 42,000 feet of the deepest gravel beds on that
gulch, to operate which they constructed several hundred
feet of bed-rock flume with all the necessary protective
appliances against floods. Nothwithstanding those expen-
sive appliances, however, the terribly destructive flood of
1883 either washed away or buried under heaps of debris
their almost entire work. LUer Mr. Alien went to the
Alaskan gold fields, and somewhere among the icy glaciers
he to-day lies buried.
A familiar figure to the early settlers of the Hills, espe-
cially of Custer, was Tom Hooper. He was one of the
170
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
seven men who were permitted to remain in the Black Hills
when the hundreds of miners were ordered out by Gen.
Crook in August, 1875. Aided by a detachment of United
States soldiers, Mr. Hooper made the first survey of the
Custer town-site, in August of that year, using a small
pocket compass and a couple of picket ropes for the pur-
pose, making the plat of the site on a twelve-inch square
piece of birch bark stripped from a tree on French creek,
which plat has unfortunately been lost. In March, 1876,
when the town was organized into a city, the people of the
Black Hills, in convention assembled, established a
Black Hills Superior Court, of which Tom Hooper was
elected judge — a court whose jurisdiction was to be co-ex-
tensive with the entire Black Hills. In short Tom Hooper
was closely identified with all the early movements, look-
ing to the welfare and advancement of the pioneer town of
the Bhick Hills, in which he was the first to practice the
profession of law. He is now a prominent attorney at law
in Sundance, Wj'oming.
LAST HUKTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 171
CHAPTER XIY.
FIRST DISCOVERY OF PLACER GOLD IN THE NORTHERN HILLS.
It appears from trustworthy information, that the first
exploration of that portion of the northern Hills, border-
ing on Whitewood creek, was made by Frank Bryant and
party in August, 1875. It is quite generally known that
the government expedition, under Professor Jenny, al-
though penetrating and prospecting the country as far to
the northward as Bear Butte creek and other portions of
the Hills to the northwest, made no explorations along
Deadwood and Whitewood creeks, and the rich placer
deposits, later found in the gulches of those streams, were
to that expedition an entirely unknown quantity.
It seems beyond reasonable doubt, therefore, that Bryant
and his little party of gold hunters, uncovered with pick
and shovel, and washed out the first gold taken from White-
wood and lower Deadwood gulches.
Perhaps there are not many of our early pioneers who
have had a more checkered experience, in all that goes to
make up a miner's life with its vicissitudes, than Frank
Bryant, and an account of some of his early adventures
may prove of interest to those who care for pioneer
history.
Frank Bryant, with a party of six others, viz. : John
Pearson, Thos. Moon, Richard Lowe, James Peierman,
Samuel Blodgett, and George Hauser, seven in all, arrived in
the Hills, from some Missouri river point, in August, 1875,
making their first camp at Spring Valley. On their way
to the northern Hills, — their objective point, the party
did its first prospecting on a small tributary of Elk creek,
with unpromising results.
Frank Bryant was the possessor of a small map, fur-
172 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
nished him before startiog by Tom Liibarge, Charley D&
Gray and Lephiere Narcouter, old employees of the Amer-
ican Fur Company, which served the party as a guide to
their objective point.
The second place prospected by the Bryant party was at
the mouth of Spruce gidch, on what was called on their
map the Chaw-Skaw-Skaw-Walkapalla (afterwards named
Whitewood creek), a beautiful stream of clear water, run-
ning then about 200 miners' inches, where was found good
prospect on the surface gravel. Fortunately, having a
saw in their outfit, they whipped out enough luml)er to
construct eight boxes, twelve feet long each, and com-
menced sluicing, but not being wholly satisfied with the
results of the experiment, they soon began to look around
for richer "diggings." This party built at the mouth of
Spruce gulch, the first cabin in the northern Hills.
One of the part}', Sam Blodgett, who had, while hunt-
ing, come upon a gulch, which to him looked favorable,
after reporting the same to the other members of the party,
returned to the gulch with John Pearson, to see what could
be found, and the first dirt panned by them was taken from
the point of the bar, on which now stands the Deadwood
High School building. Other bars, for a distance of 300
or 400 yards up the creek, were also prospected, but as
nothing encouraging was found, no locations were made.
The places last prospected were on what was later called
" Deadwood Gulch." This, as far as known, was the first
prospecting done on Deadwood gulch.
About the middle of September the party left their works^
on the Whitewood, on a fruitless search for richer diofo-infjs.
Turning their faces towards Terry Peak, they prospected
on the way, Nevada and White Tail gulches (then un-
named), without finding pay gravel; then crossing to the
opposite side of the peak, they prospected the Spearfish
and its tributaries with similar results: the}' then pro-
ceeded down the Spearfish valley to the vicinity of Spear-
fish Buttes where they went into camp. On climbing the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE 1JAKOTAH6. 173
Bulte 500 or 600 feet one of the purly discovered, about
three miles farther down the valley, a large cluster of tents
which proved to be Col. Dodge's camp. Not wishing to be
oaptured by the soldiers, of which there was not the slight-
est danger from that source, as Col. Dodge's command was
not looking for miners, they secreted their camp until
night when they pulled out under the cover of darkness
for Sand creek, where they arrived on the morning of the
next day. Here they hunted and jerked venison for a
couple of days, when the little party divided up and went
their respective \va3's.
Moon and Lowe followed Col. Dodge around to Bear
Butte, whence they made their way back to the Missouri river
for home, thoroughly disgusted withthe BlackHills. Blodgett
and Hauser joined the soldiers at Custer, and shortly after
left for Fort Laramie. Bryant and Pearson went to
Black Buttes, thence southeasterly to the head of Spring and
Slate creeks, but finding no satisfying prospects they con-
cluded to return to their abandoned works on the romantic
Chaw-Skaw-Skaw-Walkapalla. On their way back they
almot^t ran into the arms of a detachment of United States
troops, only escaping arrest by hurriedly leading their sure-
footed animals up among the shelving rocks of a precipitous
ledge. When the shadows began to fall they ventured out
of their hiding-place and slipped into the edge of the sol-
diers' camp, and had a confidential talk with a teamster,
named Robinson — afterwards, one of the locators of the
Big Missouri mine at Lead — who advised them to qo
to Fort Laramie and join Gen. Crook's command about to
start for the Big Horn. The Black Hills having been
stripped of their charms, the two weary gold-hunters
accepted Robinson's advice, and bright and early the next
morning were on their way out to join Gen. Crook for the
Big Horn. It is needless to state that Pearson was as glad
as though he had found a gold nugget to get away from
the Black Hills, and it is surmised that Bryant shed no
copious tears at leaving.
174 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Oil their way out they had an exciting and somewhat amus-
ing adventure which came near getting them into serious
trouble, and illustrates " how great a matter a little fire
kindleth.'" On the second day of their journey outward,
they came upon a water-hole, about ten feet in diameter
and two feet deep, the rim of which was cut up with the
tracks of wild animals, as if large herds of sheep and
cattle had watered there, and at the time of their arrival
there were thousands of wild bees on the spot, some
drinking on the edge of the pool, others whirling and buz-
zing around overhead. It is reasonable to presume that
there were some lively jigs danced around that water-hole
among the angry bees for a while. Well, anyone who
has ever been in a hornets' nest can appreciate the
situation.
At a critical juncture, Pearson conceived the unhappy
thought of setting fire to the grass, as a means of putting
an end to the vicious onslaught of the bees. He started
the fire, and as the wind was blowing a small gale at the
time, and the grass was as dry as powder, it burned like a
flash and spread over the prairie with the speed of a race
horse, and the two men had to fight like Trojans to save
their animals and packs from destruction. Finding it im-
possible to put out the fire they had so thoughtlessly kin-
dled, and also fearing that the smoke, which could be seen
for a long distance, might attract the notice of the Indians,
they hurried away from the scene of conflagration as
rapidly as their limitation would permit.
On the fourth day outward they camped at the old
Government Farm, where they met Frank Norton, Ed.
Davis, and Frank Smith on their way to the Black Hills,
with whom they exchanged jerked venison for the staff of
life (bread), — a glad exchange, as they had been subsisting
for several weeks on "jerk" straight. On the Platte
river they met Ed. Murphy, who afterwards made a stake
on «' Deadwood " gulch and later out of the Yellow creek
mines. Ed. was hospitably entertained by the " boys,"
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 175
who treated him to some venison of their own "jerking,"
which he pronounced very fine. The next day they visited
the Fort, and found much to their disappointment that
Gen. Crook was not going to the Big Horn.
To make a long story short, they were soon on their way
back to the BUick Hills, Pearson going by wngon to the
southern Hills, and Bryant, with W. H. Coder, William
Cudney and two other men with whom he had become ac-
quainted at Laramie, going directly to the northern Hills,
and on the 8th day of November, 1875, Bryant was again
camped on Whitewood creek, occupying the cabin built in
August of the same year. On the same evening, Novem-
ber 8th, 1875, a notice was posted on a tree, about fifty
feet east of the cabin, claiming — " by virtue of discovery —
300 feet below the notice, and 600 feet below Discovery
Claim and 300 feet above Discovery Claim for mining pur-
poses.
(Signed) Frank Bryant,
Henry Coder,
William Cudney."
J. B. Pearson later went to the northern Hills with the
Lardner party, and was among the first locaters on Dead-
wood gulch, where he continued placer mining until some
time in 187(3, when, it is alleged, he commenced the erec-
tion of the second stamp mill in that vicinity, which was
put in operation in April, 1877, operating for the most
part on ore from the Black Tail mine, which he had
located. He operated his twenty stamp mill for about
three years, when he disposed of his property and pros-
pected for a time in the southern Hills. In 1883 he became
engineer of the De Smet mill at Central City. Mr. Pearson
located what was known as the Giant and Old Abe mines,
now the property of the Homestake Company, on Decem-
ber 11th, 1875. These are believed to be the earliest quartz
mines located in the Hills.
176 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
THE FIRST LOCATORS ON DEADWOOD GULCH.
During the suaniier of 1875, William Lardner, who has
the distinction of beingr amono; the first locators and one of
the organizers of the first mining district, established on
the great " bonanza gulch," with a small party of gold-
seekers and a well-equipped little pack train, arrived in the
Black Hills from Cheyenne, Wyoming. Soon after their
arrival in the Hills they made their way to the north, in
quest of the shining metal, — exploring as they went some
of the streams and their tributaries, having their source in
the Harney Peak region, and finally in early October
pitched their tents on Little Kapid creek, a short distance
above its mouth, near the point known as " Ross' Bar."
One day, during their stay on that stream, two men,
short of i)rovision.s, — a very common occurrence in those
days, — arrived at their camp and reported that favorable
indications of placer deposits had been encountered on a
stream in the northern Hills. Those two men were J. B.
Pearson and Dan Muskle, the latter of whom, it is inferred,
had penetrated the Hills to Deadwood gulch and discovered
good indications of the existence of placer gold, but becom-
ing short of supplies, was forced to leave without making
any location. How, when, and where Muskle fell in with
J. B. Pearson is not understood, as the latter not many
days before had parted with Frank Bryant at Fort Laramie.
At any rate they came to the camp of the Lardner party
together, and were supplied with provisions, when the
whole party pulled up stakes and started for the northern
Hills.
The entire party was composed of Wm. Lardner, Ed.
McKay, Joe Englesby, Jas. Hicks, Wm. Gay, Alfred Gay,
J. B. Pearson, Dan Muskle, and Haggard, — nine in
all. They lost no time in loading their pack-horses with
blankets, picks, shovels, gold pans, and the necessary sup-
plies, of which they had an abundance, caching the balance,
for which they afterwards returned, when the party went
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH8. 177
northward across the north fork of Little Rapid ; the head-
waters of Whitewood, White Tail, and Little Spearfish
creeks, through snow knee-deep, then over the rough
mountains, through the Bald Mountain region to the new
diggings on Deadwood gulch, where, a little below the
mouth of Blacktail, " Discovery " claim was located in
November, 1875. This was doubtless the first location
made on the great bonanza gulch.
All of the original locations made by this party were, it
appears, made above " Discovery " — No. 9 falling to the
lot of Wm. Lardner and No. 4 above to Wm. Gay. As if
by the irony of fate none of the fabulously rich claims,
located a few weeks later below "Discovery" were secured
by those first locators on Deadwood gulch. Seemingly
with pernicious intent, those industrious little animals, the
beavers, had constructed a dam across the stream, on what
proved to be one of the richest claims on the gulch, thus
backing up the waters of the creek, forming a veritable
little lagoon across the narrow valley from hill to hill.
Owing to this circumstance, and the further fact that the
gulch below was covered with a dense growth of under-
brush, and strewn with a bewildering confusion of dead
timbers, lying across each other at every known or conceiv-
able angle, the outlook for prospecting was not considered
inviting.
At a miners' meeting held in December, a mining district
was organized, and appropriately named the "Lost Min-
ing District" — the first organization of the kind in the
northern Hills. Wm. Lardner was chosen recorder of the
district, and by the rules established to govern the same,
was vested with the right to charge a fee of $1,50 per claim
for recording locations.
Of that little group of pioneers, who so eagerly and
hopefully pushed their way through the deep snow to
Deadwood gulch twenty-three years ago, Wm. Lardner
alone remains in the Black Hills. All the other members
of the party, excepting McKay, are reported dead. The
12
178 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
tragic fate of one of the number, Wm. Gay, is doubtless
well known to most of those who knew him in the early
days. Wm, Gay was sentenced and hung in 1896 for
shooting and killing an officer of the law in Montana.
Poor fellow, he did not meet his fate with the fearless-
ness and daring characteristic of him. When brought face
to face with his awful doom, he who had braved the innum-
erable dangers of years of frontier life, and had, perchance,
many a time in his checkered career looked into the muz-
zle of a gun aimed at his heart without flinching, cowered
and cringed at the foot of the gallows in the most pitiable
and abject terror.
About three weeks later, or towards the last of Decem-
ber, 1875, Mr. Lardner returned with pack horses to Little
Rapid creek for the cached property, and reported the new
rich discovery to a small party of prospectors on Castle
creek, who the following day packed their tools and other
belongino-s, and followed on his trail to Deadwood gulch.
This second party, composed of J. J. Williams, W. H.
Babcock, Eugene Smith, and Jackson, arrived on Deadwood
gulch about the 1st of January, 1876, all of whom located
claims below " Discovery." It is asserted that Jackson
located No. 1 below and afterward sold his claim to Hilde-
brand and Harding, experienced miners from Montana.
J. J. Williams located No. 22 below Discovery, from which
in a period of three months he washed out $27,000 in gold
dust. He afterward sold his claim on Deadwood, and
located No. 14 above Discovery on Whitewood creek from
which he realized $35,000 of the precious metal, the reward
of his indomitable perseverance. Mr. Williams helped lay
out and found the city of Deadwood, of which for more
than two decades he has been a resident, and where he is
now engaged in the honorable avocation of a worker in
wood.
The next to find their way to Deadwood gulch, were
Wade Porter and Oscar Cline, about the middle of January,
1876. Porter had altogether a remarkable experience, as
W.M. LARDXER,
■One of the party making first locations on the famous " Deadwoocl
Gulch" in November, 1875.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 179
will be shown by the following brief recapitulation of his
early career in the Black Hills. It will, perhaps, be re-
membered that he was one of the lirst party to reach
French creek in 1875, and one of those of the party who
escaped capture by the military squad dispatched to sum-
marily remove them from the Hills. Hearing of the
exodus of the miners in August, he soon after voluntarily
left the Hills for Fort Laramie, where after a few days
stay he joined a party of about thirty men fitted out with a
large pack train, led by one Mallory, and started for Iron
creek in the northern Hills, where Mallory reported havino-
found rich diggings. Owing to a scarcity of water for
sluicing purposes in that region, Porter with several others
left Iron creek and went to Castle creek where he had
formerly prospected. He had not been there long before
the whole party was rounded up by a squad of Capt. Pol-
lock's troopers, taken to Custer and placed in the " cruard
pen," where they were kept for several days, when they were
taken to Cheyenne, tried before a United States commis-
sioner, and released. Soon after their release a number of
the party, including Porter, equipped themselves and ao^ain
started for the northwestern Hills, by a circuitous route to
avoid the soldiers. After prospecting a few weeks on
Sand and Bear creeks. Porter and Cline decided to return
to the gold diggings on Castle creek, and it was on this
trip that they struck the trail of the Lardner party, on the
Little Spearfish, which led them to Deadwood gulch, where
they located claims in January, 1876.
One of the first of the Black Hills pioneers to catch the
gold infection that began to spread over the land in the
spring of 1876 was V. P. Shouu, whose imposing presence
and distinctive personality is, doubtless, well-remembered
by the early settlers of the Hills. Mr. Shoun was one of
the 176 members of Gordon's unfortunate expedition,
whose goods and chattels were seized and burned by mill-
180 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
tary authority, while en route to the Black Hills in the
spring of 1875. Soon after the release of the captured
party, on the east bank of the Big Muddy, opposite Yank-
ton, Mr. Sboun re-equipped and was again making his
solitary way across the black prairies — ever on the alert
for the " blue coats," — for the Black Hills. At Spotted
Tail Agency, where he tarried for a while to recuperate, he
•organized a small party of seven men, equipped with as
many Sharp's rifles, 2,000 rounds of ammunition, twelve
pack ponies, and four saddle horses, and thus reinforced,
resumed his journey to the Hills about October 1st, 1875.
To guard against surprise by the soldiers, who were then
vigilantly watching the approaches to the Hills, two of the
party were kept on duty both day and night as scouts.
When near Buffalo Gap, two troops of soldiers were seen
by the scouts, who soon communicated the alarming intel-
ligence to the other members who, by hiding behind 'a
protecting hill, escaped discovery. Mr. Shoun had pretty
ofood reason for wanting to give the United States soldiers
a wide berth, for had he not seen them only a few months
before apply the match that caused all his belongings, as
well as those of his fellow-travelers, including clothing,
supplies and much of their bedding, go up in smoke?
On reaching Custer, the party was taken in charge by
D. T. Snively, and by him conducted to the protecting
shelter of the stockade, then occupied by Sam Shankland
and Robert Kenyon, who had been permitted to remain in
the Hills by Gen. Crook, to look after the interests of the
miners, a man named Murphy and two other men. In
order to avoid a collision with Major Pollock's soldiers,
Mr. Shoun secured the services and connivance of Bob
Kenyon, who had become familiar with the topography of
the Hills, to pilot them around the dreaded " blue coats,"
and put them on the trail for the north. By the courtesy
of Bob, they were soon on their way towards Harney's
Peak, where they hoped to find a safe asylum among the
fastnesses, for a time at least.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 181
On the 25th of October, the party selected a camping
ground amid the dark, deep defiles of the Harney Peak
range, where they unloaded their pack ponies, and stored
their supplies among the slelving granite rocks, then led the
ponies, relieved of their burdens, to an open park about
ten miles distant, to graze. The spot selected for a camp-
ing ground must have been an ideal hiding-place, judging
from Mr. Shoun's own standpoint, of which he says, using
his exact diction : " We camped in such a place at the foot
of Harney's Peak, that the devil himself could not have
found us." Later Mr. Shoun went north to Dead wood
gulch, and was one of the early claim owners and workers
on that historic gulch.
Owino; to the strict military espionage maintained along
the lines to the Hills, in the spring of 1875, it had been
found a losing venture to attempt the transportation of
jn'ovisions in any considerable quantities, hence those com-
ing to the Hills later were outfitted for the most part with
pack animals carrying supplies for only a limited period,
some for sixty, some for thirty days, and strangely enough
a few, trusting to kind Providence for the future, with a
little more than enough to last them to the gold fields,
consequently having no base of supplies, miners and pros-
pectors were frequently reduced to uncomfortable straits
for something to eat.
THE FIRST TO BRING MERCHANDISE TO THE BLACK HILLS.
Amonor the first to brino; merchandise to the Black Hills
to supply this demand of the miners and prospectors, was
H. B. Young, then of the firm of Cuthbertson & Young,,
of Cheyenne, Wyoming. In early November, 1875, Mr.
Young arrived in the Hills from Cheyenne, in charge of
several loads of goods for the firm of which he was a mem-
ber, making Hill City, then a mining camp of considerable
importance, his base of commercial operations during the
winter of 1875-6. Early in May, 1876, taking the current
at its flood, he transferred his headquarters from Hill City
182 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
to Deatlwood, where he carried on an extensive jobbing
trade with the retail dealers of Dead wood and other mining
camps for the firm of Cuthbertson & Young, which was
amonof the first to engage in wholesale commercial trans-
actions in the Black Hills.
Later Mr. Young turned his attention to mining opera-
tions, his first venture being the purchase of 100 feet of
the Homestake mine from Alex. Engh and Henry Har-
ney, who together owned a one-half interest in the mine,
the purchase price being three hundred dollars.
In the fall of 1877, Mr. Young sold his fractional inter-
est in the mine to a representative of the Homestake Com-
pany for the handsome sum of $10,000, or at the rate of
$150,000 for the whole mine. During the time between
the purchase and sale, Mr. Young had made extensive de-
velopments on his fraction, taking out large quantities of
ore for treatment, thereby greatly enhancing the selling
value of his property.
Late in the fall of 1877, the firm of Cuthbertson &
Young secured from the Homestake Company the con-
tract for the transportation of the Homestake eighty stamp
mill; the hoisting machinery and other appurtenances of
the plant, from Cheyenne, Wyoming, to the Homestake
mine, at the rate of six cents per pound, realizing therefrom
the sum of $33,000, which may appear to those not con-
sidering the time, distance, and difficulties involved, a large
sum. The transportation of 275 tons of unwieldy machinery
250 miles in the depth of winter, over a comparatively un-
traveled country, handicapped with the frequent necessity
of repairing roads, building bridges, etc., was no small
undertaking.
A part of the Homestake machinery was carried to the
Hills by an ox freight train, owned by A. J. Parshall of
Cheyenne, via Ked Cloud and Crook City. When the out-
fit reached the vicinit}^ of the latter point on the route, it
was caught and locked for many days in the fatal embrace
of the memorable snowfall of March, 1878, when every
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 183
bovine — save nine, of the 100 head of cattle, perished
from exposure and starvation.
Who of the early residents of the Hills will not remem-
ber the sreat snowstorm beo:inninoi; March Gth, 1878? I
said snowstorm, but, as a matter of fact, there was no
storm about it. There was no wind, no, not even a gentle
zephyr to fan the feathery flakes into uneven billows as
they fell. Thick and fast, however, they dropped flutter-
ing down, straight from the clouds to earth, until its whole
face was covered with a foot, — two feet, — three feet, —
four feet, on a deed level, of the " beautiful." The un-
precedented snowfall tinally came to an end, — as all things
will, but not before grave fears were entertained that the
Black Hills was doomed to be irrecoverably snowed under.
It has been said that every misfortune has its compensat-
ing features. Be that as it may, the deep snow of 1878
proved a veritable Klondike to the idle men and boys about
Dead wood, as its business men were freely paying one
dollar per hour to men for shoveling the snow from the
roofs of their buildings, that were giving way under the
immense pressure.
Conspicuous among the pioneers of 1875 was John R.
Brennan, who, by unyielding perseverance and indomitable
pluck during his years of residence in the Black Hills, has
succeeded in reaching the topmost rung of the ladder of
success. He was prominent among the few brave men,
who, in the face of great danger, located and founded
Rapid City, and whose experiences during those perilous
times were more thrilling, perhaps, than ordinarily fall to
the lot of pioneers. Mr. Brennan may be accounted one
of the representative citizens of the Black Hills, by virtue
of which numerous positions of honor and trust were from
time to time conferred upon him during his long and con-
tinuous residence therein.
In March, 1876, Mr. Brennan was n^ade a member
of the first Board of Trustees of Rapid City. He opened
184 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
and kept the first hostehy in Rapid City in a twelve by
fourteen feet log cabin, situated on Rapid street between
Fifth and Sixth streets. In 1878 he built and opened the
American House, on the corner of Sixth and Main streets,
which was consumed by fire in 1888. He was made presi-
dent of the Hotel Harney Company, the building being
constructed under his direction, and opened by him in 1886,
the ownership passing from the company to Mr. Brennan
in 1888.
In 1877 Mr. Brennan was appointed Superintendent of
Public Instruction for Pennington County by Gov. Pen-
nington, was also appointed first Postmaster of Rapid City
during the same year; was at one and the same time Ex-
})ress. Stage, and Union Pacific Agent, for a period of ten
years. In 1888 he was appointed President of the Board
of Trustees of the School of Mines of Rapid City, by Gover-
nor Church, holding the oflSce for four years. In 1892 he
was appointed State Railroad Commissioner by Governor
Sheldon, for two years, and was elected to the same position,
in 1894, for two years.
It is thus a pleasure to record that one of the early
pioneers of the Black Hills has occupied important niches in
their history. The subjoined account of the journey of the
party of which Mr. Brennen was a member, and some of
their experiences after reaching the Hills, may prove of
interest to residents thereof.
John R. Brennan, in company with Geo. W. Stokes,
N. H. Hawley, and George Ashton, left Denver, Colorado,
for the Black Hills, about the middle of October, 1875,
with teams and wagons loaded with all the requisite equip-
ments for such a journey, including provisions adequate
for six months. On reaching Cheyenne, an inventory of
the cash on hand was taken, when it was found that the
combined wealth of the party was just twenty dollars.
However, with this meager cash capital, but with a large
surplus of determination and pluck, they pulled out from
Cheyenne for the Hills. On the seventh day out from
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 185
Denver, they reached the Phitte river, near Fort Laramie,
where they went into cam[) for seven days — this delay
being made to avoid meeting with a squad of soldiers who
were reported on their way out from the Hills to the Fort
with a number of prospectors under arrest for trespassing
on the Indian Reserve, and for the still further purpose of
receiving; recruits.
While in camp on the Platte, they were joined by a party
of forty-five men, also bound for the Black Hills, among
whom were California Joe (the noted scout), Dido King,
afterwards commissioner of Lawrence County, and popu-
larly known as " Honest Dick," Geo. Palmer, John Argue,
Robert Ralston (who was captain of the party), and James
Hepburn and wife — the only woman in the party.
This Mrs. Hepburn, who died a few years ago in Cen-
tral, near Deadwood, was probably the first woman to enter
the Hills in 1875, — barring Calamity Jane, who it is
asserted, came in with Professor Jenny's military escort at
an earlier date.
As soon as the military escort arrived with their prison-
ers at Fort Laramie, the party immediately broke camp
and departed precipitately for the Hills via the Govern-
ment Farm, Raw Hide Buttes, and Cottonwood, crossing
the Cheyenne river at the point where Edgmont now
stands ; then up Red Canyon through Pleasant Valley to
Custer Park, arriving there on November 12lh, 1875. Here
the party found and took possession of three log barracks
built by the soldiers, occupying them for one night only.
The next day they went down French creek to the stock-
ade, two and a half miles below, where they remained
and prospected five or six days, when, dividing into small
parties, they scattered out to different points in the middle
and southern Hills.
Brennan, Stokes, Palmer, Hawley, Byron, and Argue,
located on what is known as Palmer's gulch, built three
substantial log cabins and established themselves in their
winter-quarters.
186 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
On December 20th, 1875, a miners' meeting was held at
the cabin of Brennan, Stokes, and Pahner, which was as
far as known the first regular miners' meeting ever held in
the Black Hills, the minutes of whose proceedings have
been preserved.
Below are the full proceedings: —
Meeting called to order by J. R. Brennan. Present:
Geo. W. Stokes, Geo. Palmer, N. H. Hawley, G. Byron,
Dick King, John Argue, T. C. Brady, Gus. Williams, and
California Joe.
After objects of meeting were stated; on motion, T.
C. Brady was elected chairman, and Geo. W. Stokes,
secretary.
The following business was then transacted: —
Moved and seconded that the gulch be named '* Palmer
Gulch," and that a mining district be formed to be known
as Palmer Gulch Mining District. Motion carried.
Moved and seconded that a committee of two be ap-
pointed to draft laws to regulate the district. Adopted.
Geo. Stokes and T. C. Brady were chosen to draft laws
to govern the district.
On motion the Montana Company located on Stand-off
Bar on Spring creek were invited to attend the meeting
on the 25th inst. to assist in making laws to govern the
district.
Nominations for recorder for the district were called for.
John R. Brennan, being the only name presented, was
chosen recorder of the Palmer Gulch Mining District.
Reading report of committee on laws, price for recording
claims was fixed at one dollar per claim ; size of claim was
fixed (temporarily), 200 feet up and down the gulch, and
from rim to rim.
California Joe was then called upon to tell the meeting
what he knew, in a general way, about the Hills, he having
spent the summer with Professor Jenny in their explorations.
Joe was very enthusiastic on the subject, saying that, in
his opinion, the Black Hills was the richest country in the
LAST HUNTING GUOUNO OF THE DAKOTAHS. 187
United States, that he had prospected as far north as Elk
creek, and south to French creek, and had found splendid
))rospects in every place between those two points. He
called the attention of the meeting to the fact, that he had
located and staked the first quartz claim in the Black Hills,
said claim being situated one mile below his cabin on the
gulch.
On motion, meeting adjourned to meet again on Decem-
ber 25th, to hear the report of the committee on laws.
Geo. W. Stokes,
Secretary .
This party prospected and worked nearly the entire
winter on Palmer gulch and Spring creek, running a drain
ditch 1,800 feet and sinking forty or fifty prospect holes,
without realizing enough to pay for sharpening and
repairing tools.
In the latter part of February, 1876, John R. Brennan
in company with W. P. Martin, A. Brown, Mart. Pensinger*
Wm. Marsten, Thos. Ferguson, and Dick King, left the
party, went to Rapid valley and then located Rapid City on
February 25th, 1876.
THE FIRST GOLD DUST TO BE TAKEN OUT OF BLACK HILLS.
Emil Faust, also a pioneer of 1875, left Cheyenne,
Wyoming, in October, 1875 ; with two four-horse teams,
and wagons loaded with provisions for the Black Hills.
By considerable stratagem, and making some tedious
detours, to avoid meeting the soldiers under Capt. Pollock,
who were leaving the Hills for Fort Laramie about that
time, he succeeded in reaching Custer on the 24th of Decem-
ber, 1875, where he remained during the winter. Pro-
visions becoming very scarce in the Hills, Mr. Faust in
company with D. G. Tallent, who was returning from his
second trip to the Black Hills, left Custer for Cheyenne,
in the early part of March, 1876, taking with him $1,000
in gold dust for the purchase of supplies. This gold dust
188
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
was mined from the placer deposits of French, Spring, and
Castle creeks, and was the first gold of any considerable
quantity carried out of the Black Hills.
Their journey was by no means over a bed of roses,
as will be seen. On reaching the vicinity of Hat creek,
they were overtaken by a terrific snowstorm — a veritable
Dakota blizzard, and having no forage for their horses,
and not much provisions for themselves, both came very
near perishing with cold and hunger. As the snow was too
deep for the horses to reach the grass, they were forced to
dole out to them their scanty supplies to keep the poor
beasts from starvation. Even the contents of their "grub-
box," — including a lot of nice ham sandwiches — had to
be fed to them, while they themselves went "awfully''
hungry. However, half-starved as they were, when the
storm abated somewhat, they pushed their way through the
snow and slush, towards Fort Laramie. At the " Govern-
ment" farm they providentially met Judge Kuykendall
with a small party on his way to the Hills with merchan-
dise for the Deadwood market, of whom they procured in
exchange for Black Hills gold dust enough supplies to last
until reaching Cheyenne.
This is but an instance of the terrible hardships and
privations endured by many of the early pioneers while
traveling over the dreary wastes to the Black Hills.
After investing the $1,000 of gold in provisions for the
miners Mr. Faust returned to the Hills, where he has ever
since remained, and is now one of the prosperous, business
men of the great mining metropolis of the Hills, Lead
City.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
189
CHAPTER XY.
EARLY FREIGHT AND PASSENGER TRANSPORTATION TO THE
BLACK HILLS.
When the tide of emigration began to flow towards the
Black Hills, in the early spring of 1875, the necessity for
means of transportation for passengers and freight over
the plains became apparent, and a few shrewd men of cap-
ital, seeing in this necessity an opportunity for profitable
investment, lost no time in organizing companies and
establishing lines from different points to the Black Hills
for that purpose. Nor was their judgment and penetration
at fault, for, during the years prior to the advent of the
first railroad, the immense freight and passenger traffic
between outfitting points and the Hills, not only yielded
large results to the operators, but was an important factor
in ''the business economy of the Black Hills; and from
those standpoints may be regarded as the most prosperous
years in their entire history.
The pioneer organization for the transportation of freight,
was called the Sioux City & Black Hills Transportation
Company, — the company being Fred. T. Evans, Judge
Hubbard, John H. Clark, John Hornick, — Sioux City
capitalists— of which Fred T. Evans was president. The
first train of the line left Sioux City on April 26th, 1875,
with the goods and equipments of Gordon's ill-fated
expeditionrwhich was almost totally destroyed by the mili-
tary — wagons, goods and all, — at the point on the Nio-
brara route near where Gordon, Nebraska, now stands, as
before related.
During the years 1876-7, this company shipped their
merchandise from Sioux City up the Missouri river by
steamer, first to Yankton, afterwards to Pierre, then
190 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
from those respective points by wagon to the Hills. In
1878, their shipping point was changed from Sioux City
to Chamberlain to connect with the Chicago, Milwaukee
and St. Paul R. R., whence their goods were shipped by
steamer to Pierre, and from there by wagon to all points
in the Black Hills until 1888. This Evans' Transportation
Company employed varying from 1,000 to 1,500 men and
wagons, from 2,000 to 3,000 oxen, and from 1,000 to
1,500 mules, and the freight traffic of the line was some-
thing immense. Although the men employed on the line
had frequent encounters with the Indians, the only loss
sustained by the company during the period of its existence
was 200 oxen stolen, and one man killed by the Indians at
Crook City, in March, 1876, and two men killed and ten
mules stolen in 1877 on the Cheyenne river.
Following closely upon the heels of the organization of
the Sioux City and Black Hills Transportation Company
came that of the Witcher Company, which carried on a
very extensive freight business with the Hills during the
first four or five years of its history. This company
commenced operations along that line in the spring of 1875,
the first train of the line starting on its initial trip a few
days after the departure of the Gordon party with the
Evans' transportation train.
It may be remembered that this unfortunate expedition,
destitute of the quality of cohesion, broke up into frag-
ments, while en route on the old Niobrara trail to the
Hills. Subsequently the Witcher Company shipped their
freight from Sioux City by boat to Yankton and Pierre
successively, thence overland by wagon to different points
in the Black Hills.
Several other freight lines, doing a more or less exten-
sive business with the Hills, were established prior to the
opening of the country to settlement in 1877, notabl}' Dick
Dunn & Newbanks' transportation lines, running from
Pierre, and J. M. Woods, Bramble and Miner, Jewett &
Dickinson from Sidney.
FRED. T. EVANS,
Who started the first passenger and freight transportation train
from Sioux City to the Black Hills in April, 1875.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 191
The first regular express and passenger line to the Black
Hills, called the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Line,
running first from Cheyenne, afterwards from Sidney to
Deadwood, was established during the year 187G. The
company, Messrs. Gihiian, Salisbury and Patrick, com-
menced operations along the line laid out, and made an
earnest and determined effort to push the work to a speedy
completion, and put the line in full operation in the early
spring of that year, but owing to the persistent hostility of
the Indians and their consequent depredations, it was found
utterly impracticable. Their relay stations were burned,
their stock run off, and their general agent killed by the
Indians. Thus handicapped, they were compelled to par-
tially suspend operations temporarily. However, despite
the difficulties in the way, work was soon resumed, and
some time in July a splendid four-horse coach, loaded with
passengers, succeeded in safely reaching Custer. On its
return trip, however, when a few miles out from Custer,
the coach was attacked by a band of Indians, who after a
chase of several miles, killed the driver, cut the horses
from the coach and drove them away, harness and all,
leaving the passengers stranded on the trail, who were in
consequence compelled to walk back twelve miles to Custer
for a new start. The difiiculties of establishino^ a line of
coaches 300 miles over an intensely hostile country are
not easily surmounted, yet by an unyielding perseverance,
the obstacles were at last overcome, and on September
25th, 1876, the first through coach of the line reached
Deadwood.
In addition to its passenger traflSc, this line carried large
consignments of fast freight and express matter, amount-
ing, it is estimated by some, to about 40,000,000 pounds
annually. All Western and Southern, and a considerable
portion of Eastern mail for the Hills was carried over this
line. All of the Homestake bullion up to 1881, and nearly
all of the early gold product of the Black Hills, was
transported by the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Com-
192 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
pany during the perilous years, when " road agents," under
the guise of honest men, surreptitiously watched the ship-
ments, and " hold-ups " were a common occurrence, and
when the golden treasure had to be guarded by intrepid
nervy men armed with shot-guns.
The old historic Deadwood Treasure Coach that has since
been " held up" and robbed, in regular Black Hills style,
in numerous of the large cities of the United States and in
many parts of the old world, to the intense delight, amid
the wild plaudits of tens of thousands, among whom were
some crowned heads, was planned and built by Superin-
tendent Voorhees, of the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage
Company, for the safer transportation of Black Hills gold.
The Northwestern Express, Stage, and Transportation
Company, organized under the laws of Minnesota, with R.
Blakely as president, and C. W. Carpenter as secretary and
treasurer, commenced running a daily line of stages in
connection with the Northern Pacific Railroad from Bis-
marck to Deadwood on May 1st, 1877. In October, 1880,
the line was transferred to Pierre, to connect with the Chi-
cago and Northwestern Railway, and in 1886 was transferred
from Pierre to Chadron, Nebraska, to connect with the Fre-
mont, Elkhorn and Missouri Valley Railroad on its com-
pletion to that point. In 1880, the company established a
line of splendid Concord four-horse coaches, between
Pierre and Deadwood, which it is estimated carried an
average of 5,000 passengers yearly for a period of five
years, during which time the line carried all the Northern
and a large percentage of the Eastern mail for the Black
Hills. The Homestake bullion was transported by this
company, from Deadwood to Pierre, during the years 1881
and 1882. The heavy weight transportation alone on this
line amounted to 11,000,000 pounds annually, employing
250 men, 600 horses and mules, and 2,000 oxen.
On the completion of the F. E. & M. V. R. R. to the
Hills, all that kind of passenger and freight traffic with
the Black Hills soon ceased and the lines discontinued.
H. X. WITCHEK,
Who established the second passenger and freight transportation line
from Sioux City to the Black Hills in April, 1875.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 193
Stage coaches, ox and mule trains are now relegated to the
dead past. The rumbling of the dashing tally-ho; the long
strings of tired cattle, toiling slowly along with the trains
of heavily freighted wagons; the ear-piercing crack of the
long lashes of the picturesque bull-whackers, and the pro-
longed braying of the mules, are no more seen nor heard on
the business thoroughfares of our cities.
EARLY POSTAL FACILITIES IN THE BLACK HILLS.
Prior to the opening of the country for settlement in
February, 1877, and the subsequent establishment of regu-
lar United States mail service for the Black Hills, the peo-
ple, having been thrown upon their own resources for
means of communication with the outer world, were com-
pelled to avail themselves of chance opportunities for send-
ing out letters — business or otherwise, — and had also to
depend upon the same uncertain means for return messages.
The large accumulation of mail for the Black Hills, at the
various outfitting points, was usually intrusted to the care of
trains leaving these points for the Hills, and as these trains
were frequently held in siege by the hostile Indians for
many days at a time, the mail did not always arrive when
expected. However, after weeks of anxious waiting on
the part of the long suffering people, it would, in most
cases, reach its destination. On its arrival in Deadwood,
the principal distributing point of the Hills, it would be
taken in charge by a self-constituted postmaster, and labo-
riously arranged in alphabetical piles, ready for delivery —
the modus operandi being as follows : The addresses were
read aloud; each person upon the call of his name would
elbow his way through the immense crowd of eager letter-
seekers, to the delivery window, where, by the payment of
fifty cents in " coin of the realm " or its equivalent in gold
dust, he would receive his long looked for letter or letters.
Fifty cents may seem a large price to pay for a single
letter, but when it is considered that several clerks had to
be employed in arranging and handing out the mail, and
13
194 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
several others in weighing up the gold dust received in
payment therefor, besides the percentage to the carriers, it
was not, perhaps, unreasonable.
In the summer of 1876, about the last of July or per-
haps the first of August, followed the Seymour and Utter
Pony Express Mail Service with its corps of daring intrepid
riders, conspicuous among whom were Charlie Utter
(Colorado Charlie), H. G. Rockfellow, and Herbert
Godard. Mounted on the fleetest of bronchos, with mail
sacks strapped onto their saddles, and their guns and cart-
ridges thrown across the pommels ; silently and swiftly
they flew over the Indian infested trail, first between Fort
Laramie and Deadwood, and afterwards between Sydney
and Deadwood, with, the thousands of white-winged mes-
sages, never, as far as known, losing a single paper, or fail-
ing to arrive on schedule time. Although the service called
for only a weekly mail, the riders by a frequent relay of
fresh ponies, sometimes made the trip in the incredibly
short space of forty-eight hours, much of the distance
being traveled under cover of the night to avoid contact
with the Indians. For this dangerous service the company
received tsventy-five cents for each letter delivered, but as
the number of letters varied from 2,000 to 3,000 each trip
the compensation was not insignificant.
That the riders had many thrilling experiences with the
redskins on their trips, goes without saying ; that they some-
times, too, had very narrow escapes, is illustrated by the
following story from the pen of a 3'^oung pioneer of 1876,
(R.B.Hughes): —
'* Among the riders employed by Seymour and Utter, to
carry the mail from Deadwood to Fort Laramie, was Brant
Street, now living the life of a quiet farmer in Dodge
County, Nebraska. Street was engaged to ride pony
express, and for a month or so went through the expe-
riences common in those days to all men in that dangerous
occupation. He carried, besides the mail sack tied to his
saddle, nothing save a Remington rifle and a bag of cart-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
195
196 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ridges slung across the pommel of the saddle. One after-
noon, he was riding along on his down trip, about eight
miles north of Hat Creek Station, not expecting trouble,
for the Indians had been unusually quiet for a week or
more, when a volley was fired upon him from the bush,
and, in an instant, as he afterwards told the story, the
world seemed to be full of redskins. His horse fell dead
at the first fire. One ball struck the pommel of the saddle
and another knocked the heel from his boot. Extricating
himself from the saddle as quickly as possible, and pulling
off the gun and cartridges, he ran as fast as he could to a
little arroyo close by, into which he threw himself at full
length.
" As he ran the bullets sang and whistled about his ears
and kicked up the dust at his feet. The Indians were rap-
idly closing in on him when he emptied his cartridges on
the ground, and, as he expressed it, commenced pumping
lead back at them. So warm did he make it for the
Indians, that they soon began to look for cover and long
range, from which they kept up an intermittent fusillade
until night fell, when they withdrew. Street said after-
ward that the three or four hours he spent hugging the
ground seemed longer than so many days at any other time
of his life. The nerve of the man is shown in the fact that
after darkness had settled down he crawled out to his dead
horse, disengaged the pouches of mail, and carried them
on his back to Hat Creek Station."
Brave and swift though these riders were, one of them
at least is known to have fallen a victim to the deadly bullets
of the redskins, as about the middle of August, a Sidney
express rider was found scalped beside his mail bag, be-
tween Castleton and Deadwood.
In connection with this private mail service, a post office
was established in Deadwood, not for the distribution of
mail as in regular United States service, but for a safe
depository, where the people could go and get their mail
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 197
under certain restrictions. Upon the arrival of the ex-
press, the pouches were emptied of their contents and the
letters arranged alphabetically as before, when the letters
would be handed out as called for — only one person's mail
could be called for at a time. By right of priority, first
come first served, each new one claiming mail, regardless
of sex, being required by an unwritten law to take his
position in the line in the rear, so that if one desired to get
the mail of a friend, he would be compelled to take his
place in the rear of the column and wait his turn. Of
course it took a long time to call out two or three thousand
letters from the voluminous piles and weigh up the gold-
dust postage, and for that reason the line was usually
long drawn out, a quarter of a mile, more or less, and
those having to repeat the operation grew proportionately
tired. There are many doubtless in the Black Hills to-day,
who after the lapse of twenty -one years, grow tired at the
recollection of having stood in line for three or four
hours awaiting their turns to get a letter from the old
home.
After two months of pony express mail service, the line
was sold out to Mr. Clippenger of Fort Laramie, whose
service proved so unsatisfactory to the people, that finally
all mail matter for the Hills was ordered to be given into
the care of the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Company
for transportation, such service being at first rendered free
of charge.
Occasionally, before the establishment of the Pony Ex-
press Service, letters for the Hills were intrusted to the
care of parties of gold-seeking adventurers to be delivered
directly into the hands of the parties addressed when
found. Sometimes such persons were not readily found,
in which case, letters frequently passed through several
hands before reaching their addresses, and I now recall two
occasions, on which I received very badly soiled, tattered
and torn missives, bearing the unmistakable ear-marks of
198
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
having been perused by other eyes than those for whom
they were intended. However, we could not afford to be
too fastidious in those days, and were glad to get even
second-hand news. Such were the postal limitations in the
Black Hills in 1876.
V
LAST HUNTING GROUND CF THE DAKOTAHS.
199
CHAPTEK Xyi.
THE YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION; OR, THE INDIAN CAMPAIGN
OF 1876.
The Yellowstone Expedition of 1876 furnishes the theme
for a tra-ic chapter in the history of the Blacii Hills.
While the campaign may be considered by some more a
matter of general history, inasmuch as the expedition had
its inception in the necessity for throwing protection around
the people of the Black Hills and the outlying settlements
against the depredations of hostile Sioux, and also in that
the Black Hills would more directly lose by its failure or
profit by its success, than any other portion of our com-
mon country, it may be regarded as essentially a part of
Black Hills history. Howbeit, believing it to be such, it
seems fitting that a brief account of that memorable cam-
paign, the causes leading thereto, its object and results,
be recorded on these pages, that the name of the dead hero,
whose trail the first pioneers followed into the wilderness,
may be ever kept green in their memories.
Primarily, the invasion of the Black Hills in 1874, and
the subsequent failure of the Sioux to obtain redress for
such violation of treaty obligations in their council with
the United States Commissioners in 1875, followed by the
unrestricted influx of gold-seekers into their domain, —
acrcrravated, doubtless, by a long list of fancied wrongs,
tre^asured up for years, - yet unavenged, engendered the
bitter hostilities, which resulted in the crowning tragedy
of 1876 — the tragedy of the Little Big Horn.
The more direct and immediate cause, however, precipi-
tating the conflict, was the refusal of certain bands of
hostite Indians to complv with the request of the Indian
Department, that they be compelled to settle down on their
200
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
SITTING BULL.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 201
reservation, subject to the control of the Indian agents.
It was to compel obedience and bring in these recalcitrant
bands, who were roaming at will over a very large scope of
the Western public domain, — but rarely visiting their
agencies (only when rations were drawn), that the cam-
paign iinown as the Yellowstone Expedition, was authorized
by the War Department and placed under the direction of
Gen. Sheridan, in the winter of 1875-6.
About this time. Sitting Bull, the " medicine man " of
these hostile bands, learning of the contemplated aggres-
sive movements, began to concentrate his savage forces,
and away out westward among the mountains of Southern
Montana, he planted the hostile standard — at a point he
thought admirably located for his purpose — not too far
away to preclude the possibility of making dashing raids
on the distant settlements, yet near enough to the impreg-
nable ramparts of the Big Horn mountains, to which, if
closely pursued, he could make his escape, and at the same
time accessible to foreign territory, where needed recruits
could be obtained.
Pending the military warlike movements, the wily Brule
chieftain — the most uncompromising and relentless of the
foes of the pale-faces, and his savage coadjutors, the vin-
dictive Uncapapas, Chief Gall, and Crow-king, and the
reckless Crazy Horse, the ruling spirits of the hostile forces,
were rapidly gathering in recruits from nearly all the tribes
of the Sioux nation. Couriers and runners were sent out
with the " war pipe " to the various reservations to stir up
the spirit of war among the agency Indians; hundreds of
them from both the upper and lower agencies, including
all the renegade outlaws of the various tribes, hastened to
swell the hosts of Sitting Bull on the Yellowstone.
The plan of the campaign for subduing these savage forces,
which finally numbered in the aggregate from 6,000 to 8,000
Indians and squaws, including nearly 3,000 of the most
warhke braves of the Sioux nation, was briefly as follows :
A column from the Department of the Platte under Gen.
202 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Crook and one from Fort Abraham Lincoln, under Gen.
Terry to be joined by Gen. Gibbons' command from Fort
Ellis, on the Upper Yellowstone, were to co-operate, and
in conjunction, surround and capture the hostile bands, or
drive them onto their respective reservations.
In the execution of the above plan, about the 1st of
March, 1876, Gen. Crook, in command of the first column
consisting of ten companies of Third Cavalry and two of
the Fifth Infantry, comprising altogether less than 900
men, moved out westward from Fort Laramie in quest of
the savage foe, going into camp on the Powder river near
old Fort Reno, where he remained on account of severe
storms for several weeks, meanwhile reorganizing his
army. Soon after their arrival in camp. Gen. Reynolds,
with the force of cavalry and pack-train, proceeded down
the river and when about fifty miles below, on the 17th of
March, he was met and repulsed by Craz}^ Horse and his
baud of 100 lodges, which obliged him to return to camp,
and it was at the time of this delay and repulse that the
Indians left their agencies by hundreds to join the
hostiles.
As soon as the weather made it practicable. Gen. Crook
resumed his march with a little more than 1,000 fighting
men (a force wholly inadequate, as it turned out, to cope
successfully with the enemy in an almost totally unknown
country), and about 200 more as scouts, teamsters, and
packers, reaching Goose creek — a branch of the Tongue
river — about the first of June, where he made a permanent
camp.
The ♦' hostiles," on the approach of Gen. Crook, of
whose movements they kept themselves thoroughly well-
informed through the medium of scouts and spies who
were ever diligently scouring the country on the watch for
any threatened danger, sent out a large party of their
best fighting braves to discover the real strength of the
approaching army, and, if expedient and practicable,
precipitate a conflict.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS, 203
On the 17th of June, Gen. Crook encountered these
Indians somewhere near the headwaters of the Rosebud,
where a battle ensued, in which the expedition was
defeated and compelled to retreat — without, it is believed,
any serious loss — placing it, however, for the time being,
practically out of the campaign.
The victorious Indians after repeated fruitless attempts
to decoy Gen. Crook into ambush in the canyons of the
Rosebud, faced about and returned on their trail to the
village near the Little Big Horn — the very trail, doubtless,
struck and followed up by Custer and his brave troopers
to their death eight days later.
The Sagacious Sitting Bull and his allies, upon being
warned of the advance of Gen. Custer's column from the
east, and easily discerning in the general movement the
net that was being woven around them, determined not to
be caught in its meshes unprepared, so with admirable
foresight, they had located their village along the west
bank of the Little Horn — thus commanding its waters —
the key to the situation, and in near proximity to the Big
Horn mountains, whither they could send their squaws if
need be, and make their own escape perfectly safe from
pursuit amid their frowning battlements.
It was near this their chosen vantage ground, insolent
and defiant in their conscious strength, that the yelling
savage hosts of Sitting Bull, in all their gaudy panoply,
and fairly bristling with the most approved arms, closed
around and blotted out of existence, by sheer force of
numbers, Custer and five troops of his beloved Seventh —
soldiers as valiant and brave as ever bestrode a horse or
shouldered a carbine.
THE CUSTER COLUMN.
On the morning of May 15th, the second column of the
Yellowstone Expedition, with Brig. -Gen. Terry in command
of all the forces, numbering in the aggregate about 1,200
204 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
men, and 1,400 animals, left Fort Abraham Lincoln to join
in the campaign against the hostile Sioux.
As the long line of cavalry, infantry, artillery, mounted
scouts, pack mules, ponies, with the long train of supply
wagons, marched out from the garrison, conspicuous at the
head of the column might be seen Gen. Custer — every
inch a soldier — and the gallant Seventh Cavalry with the
twelve companies of splendidly disciplined troopers,
mounted on their glossy, prancing, well-trained horses, the
sheen of their carefully polished accoutrements gleaming
brightly in the morning sun, making, methinks, to any
lover of military display, a pageant worth going a long
distance to see.
These brave soldiers and their heroic leader, while fully
realizing the hardships and dangers which lay before
them, and being inured to the hardships of Indian cam-
paigns, with resolute faces and courageous hearts, confident
of success — for had not the very name. Seventh Cavalry,
been ever a synonym of victory, — pressed forward to
defeat and death. Ah ! did no thought or premonition, no
vision of the awful calamity that awaited them on the bluffs,
overlooking the picturesque valley of the Little Big Horn,
come to them meanwhile? We cannot know. But let us
follow their movements along their line of march thither,
till the curtain drops, behind which the closing scene of the
drama was enacted.
On the 20th of May, after four days' march, the expedi-
tion reached the Little Missouri river, about forty-six miles
distant from Fort Lincoln, where a halt of one day was
made for the purpose of ascertaining the truth or falsity of
rumors current at the fort, that hostiles were gathered
in large force on that stream and prepared to give
battle.
Gen. Custer, with four companies of cavalry, a number
of scouts, himself acting as guide, rode up the valley of
the Little Muddy about twenty miles and back, without
finding Indians or even any recent trace of them, which
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH8. 205
settled the question of Indians thereabouts beyond doubt.
However, as the savages were liable to be encountered at
any time, scouts were kept constantly employed scouring
the country in advance, and on the flanks of the column all
alona: its line of march.
Traveling directly westward, over a country then before
untraveled by white men, the command reached the Powder
river, about twenty miles above its mouth, June 9th, from
which point the expedition marched northward down the
river, through the almost impassable Bad Lands, — at first
regarded as altogether impracticable for wagons, — to its
mouth, where the nearly exhausted supply of rations and
forage was replenished from the loaded boats, which had
steamed up the Yellowstone for that purpose. From this
point, a large scouting party and several troops of cavalry
under Major Keno, were sent out in advance to discover,
if possible, some trace or trail leading to the rendezvous of
the hostiles, who were supposed to be not very far away.
After three days for rest and recuperation, on the 15th
of June, Gen. Custer, with six companies of cavalry, the
Gatling battery, scouts and pack mules, moved west from
the mouth of Powder river, — leaving all unnecessary
incumbrances, such as wagons, tents, etc., behind — to the
mouth of Tongue river, about forty miles distant, reach-
ing that point on the evening of the 16th, Gen. Terry and
staff following up the Yellowstone by steamer. From the
mouth of Tongue river the column then continued its
course westward to the mouth of the Rosebud, about mid-
way between the Tongue and Big Horn rivers, which was
reached on June 20th.
While in camp, at the mouth of the Rosebud, the scout-
ing party returned and reported that the trail and deserted
camp of a village of 380 lodges, indicating a force not less
than 1,200 in all, had been discovered; also reporting that
the Indians could have been overtaken in thirty-six hours,
as the trail appeared to be not more than a week old.
Had this scouting party of perhaps more than 500 well-
206 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
equipped soldiers and scouts, at once pressed forward oa
this fresh trail, instead of returning to the main division of
the column, thereby losing much valuable time, the entire
village, it is believed, would have been overtaken, surprised
and captured, and thus, perchance, the terrible fate of
Custer and his gallant command might have been averted.
Evidently this failure to follow up the Indians placed Cus-
ter in great jeopardy, by giving the hostiles an intimation
of his near approach, and giving them time to reach and
join the forces on the Little Horn, and also opportunity
to mature plans for effective offensive or defensive
operations.
All plans being arranged, and preparations made, at noon
of June 22d, — only three short days before the fatal
battle, — our Gen. Custer with his gallant Seventh, his force
of Ree and Crow scouts, and pack mules for carrying the
necessary rations, moved bravely on up the valley of the
Rosebud, hopeful of accomplishing great results ; confident
of achieving an easy and speedy victory over a small village
of only 1,200 Indians. Fatal mistake !
Gen. Terry with the regiment of infantry and Gen.
Gibbons' command, was to proceed up the river as far as
the steamer could go, and then march to the point where
he could co-operate with Gen. Custer.
Taking up the trail where the scouting party had turned
back, Custer cautiously followed it up over the divide be-
tween the Rosebud and Big Horn rivers, preceded by his
faithful and trusty scouts, who kept up a line of communi-
cation with the advancing column. The Crows soon
became aware that they were nearing the dreaded Sioux —
they could scent their natural enemies from afar.
At about 11 o'clock on the night of the 24th, in response
to " officers' call," all troop commanders assembled at the
headquarters of the commanding general and received
marching orders — important information had been brought
in, making it necessary to move forward at once — the
hostile village had been precisely located by the scouts.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 207
The bugle call of " boots and saddles" was sounded and
the sleepy troopers were soon in their saddles, and on their
tortuous march through the brakes of the Wolf mountains,
never halting until the morning.
The 25th, the fatal day of the battle, dawned delightfully ;
the run rose in brightness resplendent — the sun whose
last slanting rays were to cast their mellow beams athwart
a scene, such as the world has rarely, if ever, witnessed.
As the day advanced and the command were nearing the
enemy, Custer ordered that no trumpet call be sounded
except in an emergency ; and instructed his officers to keep
their respective troops within supporting distance of each
other— not to get ahead of the scouts, nor linger too far
in the rear. He told them in impressive words how much
he relied upon their discretion and judgment, and above all
upon their loyalty whatever might come. His tone and
manner was gentle and subdued, with none of the usual
brusqueness that characterized Gen. Custer. Was not the
dark shadow of their coming doom brooding over him?
The 3,000 fighting warriors w^ere by this time fully aware
of the proximity of the long-haired chief and his handful
of soldiers, and their spies were, even then, lying prostrate
on the opposite slopes of the bluffs watching the advanc-
ing column over their crests. Before noon of that day,
the command had crossed the divide, when Custer divided
his regiment into three battalions, which before 1 o'clock
were ready to advance along the lines indicated in their
orders, against the enemy.
Capt. Benteen's battalion of three troops, consisting
of troop " H," Capt. Benteen; troop " D," Capt. Wier;
troop " K," Lieut. Godfrey ; were ordered to a line of high
bluffs on the left of the trail, three or four miles distant,
to reconnoiter the field and prevent the escape of the
Indians in that direction, and report the situation to the
commanding general, and fight if necessary.
Major Reno in command of the advance battalion, com-
posed of troop " M," Capt. French; troop " A," Capt.
208 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Moylan ; troop " G," Lieuts. Mcintosh and Wallace, under
orders to charge the village, followed the trail, crossed the
river at the ford, and marched his troops down towards the
enemy, massed along the left bank of the Little Horn.
Gen. Custer with his battalion of five troops, viz.:
troop " I," Capt. Keogh and Lieut. Porter; troop " F,"
Capt. Yates and Lieut. Riley; troop *' C," Capt. Tom Custer
and Lieut. Harrington; troop " E," Lieuts. Smith and
Sturgis; troop " L," Lieuts. Calhoun and Crittenden;
with scouts, numbering all told not more than 300 men,
prepared to take his position on the bluffs to the right, at
the lower end of the village.
For the last time those brave boys in blue cheerfully
responded to the inspiring trumpet call of '* mount." Once
more in obedience to the bugle call, sweet and clear, of
" Forward, March ! " they rode bravely along the trail of
the savages until near the ford, then up onto the bluffs to
the right, overlooking the Little Horn. " Boldly they
rode and well, into the jaws of — " but, the curtain drops.
Well, what then? The sequel and scene of conflict tell us
that, in a brief space, there was a short, fierce, terrible
battle — the true details of which can never be known.
We only know that not one of that gallant three hundred
ever rode back to rehearse the story of Custer's last battle.
The annihilation was complete. Ah! that was not all.
What did the fiends incarnate then do? It is not at all
difficult to conceive and draw a mental picture of their work.
We can plainly see in the picture a burly savage — malig-
nant hate portrayed in every lineament of his ugly painted
face, with glistening blade in hand, bending low over each
prostrate form — perchance, many not yet dead. We can
see the reeking scalp of each separate victim waved exult-
antly in the air, and now we can see them stripped of their
clothing and their pockets rifled. We can see the murder-
ous bandits flitting about all over the battle-ground among
the dead, in a general scramble after the arms and accou-
trements of the dead soldiers, which, with such few horses
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 209
ns had escaped the awful carnage, are handed over to the
squaws and other non-combatants ; and lastly, we can see
them mount their ponies and ride in hot haste, and red-
handed, to attack the beleaguered battalions on the bluffs
above. It did not take them long to accomplish all this,
as there were legions of them, and, moreover, the picture
is not overdrawn, but literally true.
The following particulars of the movements of Major
Reno and Capt. Benteen in their two days' fight on the
Little Big Horn, are gleaned partly from official reports,
and partly from an article on the subject by Lieut.
Godfrey, one of Custer's troop commanders in Capt. Ben-
teen's battalion. As Lieut. Godfrey was a participant in
the battles, he is entitled to be regarded as unquestionable
authority on the subject.
The story, shorn of all unnecessary details, is substan-
tially as follows : —
Major Reno, after crossing the ford, moved his column
down the valley of the Little Horn, in a line skirting the
timber for perhaps two miles, then formed his battalion
into a skirmish line, extending out from the timber across
the valley — with the Ree scouts on the left, and advanced
down toward the Indian village. The Indians who had
rode up the valley to meet the soldiers, made a pretext of
retreating — developing strength meanwhile, and firing
occasional shots. Suddenly, at the opportune time, they
made a bold dash on Reno's left flank, forcing his command
back into the timber on the river bank, and putting the
Ree scouts to an ignominious flight. It is told that the
cowardly Rees fled precipitately — never stopping until
they reached the supply camp, at the mouth of the Powder
river.
Reno, not seeing Custer within supporting distance, did
not obey the order to charge the village, but, being forced
back on the defensive in the timber, ordered his troops to
dismount and fight the enemy on foot. His position —
sheltered by the timber, and protected to an extent by the
14
210 ' THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
river bank, was a good one, and it is thought could have
been maintained for a long time without serious loss,
Howbeit the Indians surrounded the command on every
side, and sent their death-dealing missiles fast and furious
into their ranks. Major Reno — on finding himself bespat-
tered with the blood of his faithful scout (Bloody Knife),
who fell riddled at his side, and hemmed in by overpower-
ing numbers, at least five to one — gave the order to
" mount and get to the bluffs," but owing to the noise of
battle and the confusion, the order was not heard or not
understood. It would appear that the troops were becom-
ing sadly demoralized. The order of " mount and get to
the bluffs " was repeated, and again not understood, and
not until one of the troop commanders standing near
Reno, communicated the order to the other troops, was it
understood.
The command then, for the most part, mounted and
made a hasty retreat across the river at a lower ford, and
without the least semblance of military order, scrambled
up the bluffs on the right. While crossing the river a
number were shot — among them was the brave Capt.
Hodgson, who, when he fell from his horse into the river,,
cried out in despairing tones, ** For God's sake don't leave
me here." At that moment a soldier held out the stirrup
of his saddle and told him to take hold of it. Grasping
the stirrup, he was dragged through the water to the oppo-
site side, but when climbing the bank of the stream, he
was struck by another ball and fell back into the water.
An attempt was afterwards made to recover his body, but
without success.
When scaling the bluff, it became apparent that but few
of the Indians had followed up Reno's retreat, for reasons
which soon became manifest. How long Reno's fight in
the timber lasted is uncertain, as estimates of the time
vary; probably, however, not more than twenty or thirty
minutes. Reno's casualties, nearly all of which occurred
during the retreat, were three officers, thirteen enlisted
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 211
men and scouts killed; one officer, one interpreter and
fourteen soldiers and scouts missing.
Soon after Reno's disorderly retreat to the bluffs, he
was joined by Benteen's battalion, followed by the pack
train on their way to join Custer. At that time Capt.
Benteen, the hero of the Little Big Horn, first learned of
Reno's fight and defeat in the valley. Just about the time
of this junction of Reno and Benteen, it was discovered
that the Indians for the greater part had abandoned the pur-
suit of Reno's retreating troops, but upon looking down
the river it was seen that the bottom was swarming with
mounted warriors, riding excitedly to and fro, evidently in
great consternation; soon they were seen to ride swiftly
down the valley out of sight.
It was at this very time that the Indians, having been
warned of the appearance of more soldiers farther down
the bluffs, surrounded and utterl}^ annihilated Custer and
his men.
It seems inexplicable, and only upon the hypothesis that
they feared the movement of the Indians might be a ruse
to decoy them from their point of vantage, that no con-
certed movement of the two battalions was made, at the
time of this diversion, to reach Custer. In view of the
facts, however, such a theory becomes liaseless, as they
obviously knew that a battle was in progress on the bluffs
below; they knew that Custer was having a fight with the
Indians, for, says Mayor Reno in his official report :
" Almost at the same time I reached the top (of the
bluff), mounted men were seen to be coming towards us,
and it proved to be Capt. Benteen's battalion H, D, and K.
We joined forces and in a short time the pack train came
up. Still hearing nothing of Custer, and with this re-
inforcement I moved down the river in the direction of the
village keeping on the bluffs. We heard firing in that
direction and knew it could be only Custer. I moved to
the summit of the highest bluff, and seeing and hearing
nothing, sent Capt. Wier with his company to open com-
munication with the command. He soon sent back word
212 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
by Lieut. Hare that he could go no farther. I at once
turned everything back to the fir^t position, and which
seemed to me best."
Capt. Benteen on learning that Capt. Wier and his bat-
talion had, without orders, gone down the river with his
troops, moved the other two troops of his command down
the river in the direction Capt. Wier had gone, and from
the top of the high bluff got his first view of the Indian
village, and discovered Wier's troops in full retreat fol-
lowed closely by the Sioux. What could a single company
of calvary do against hundreds of armed savages?
It is plain then that it was after the junction of Reno's
and Benteen's battalions, that the Custer battle was in prog-
ress, and not simultaneously with Reno's fight in the valley,
as is supposed by some. Yes, they knew that Custer was
having a fight with the Indians; shot after shot was heard
from the direction of Custer's battle-ground, perhaps a
little more than two miles below. What did those shots
mean? They meant that Custer was having a fierce conflict
with the red hosts that drove Reno in disorder to the bluffs
a half hour before. Then again they heard two distinct
volleys in rapid succession. What did those volleys mean?
They meant that Custer was in deadly peril — a signal to
the soldiers he had so often led to victory to hasten
without delay to his support.
Custer's last desperate appeal reached the ears of the five
or six hundred soldiers above, but no response came. Alas,
the opportune time soon passed, for in less than one hour
the Indians, flushed with their bloody victory, were hasten-
ing to drive them from their position ob the bluffs.
Had the officer superior in command rallied the entire
forces to his support, at the sound of the first shot from
Custer's field, he would have won and deserved immortal
honors. Strange as it appears, they seemed to feel no appre-
hension that Custer was in any real danger, believing that
he was perfectly able to take care of himself, but how they
could think so in view of Reno's disaster a short time before
is somewhat puzzling.
GKNHkAL Custer's last chai:ge.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 213
It is believed, upon the very unsatisfactory information
drawn from Indians who took part in the battle, that the
ammunition of some of Caster's troops became exhausted,
that two of his troops had dismounted to do battle on foot,
and that their horses, made frantic by the waving of
blankets and the yelling of the Indians, had been stampeded,
bearing away with them the reserve ammunition in the
saddle-bags.
It will be understood that when Benteen jomed Keno
on the bluffs, he was on his way with the pack train to
join Custer, in obedience to an urgent order — Custer's
last order-which read as follows: "Benteen, come
quick! Big Village ; Bring packs. Cook, Adjutant. P. S.
Brintr packs." This order would indicate, that from some
favorable point he had discovered the full strength of
the Indian village, and realizing that the situation was
desperate, had sent for reinforcements, and more am-
munition.
About the time that Reno was moving in line down the
valley toward the Indian village, some of his men saw
Custer and a few of his battalion, standing dismounted on
a bluff, cheering and waving their hats as if giving en-
couravrement to Reno's men; and that was the last seen of
him or any of his men, until found dead on the battlefield.
It is said, that the bluff where Custer was last seen was
the one to which Reno escaped with his demoralized troops
about an hour later.
The Indians, after the Custer battle, returned red-
handed to the siege of the bluff, with a determination to
wipe out, if possible, by virtue of numbers, the residue of
the regiment. In brief, the Indians in a very short time
gained^possession of the surrounding points of vantage, and
began to pour deadly shot, thick and fast, into the ranks of
the soldiers, who, being on the defensive, could do little
more than to maintain their positions ; making occasional
bold sorties to drive back the besiegers whenever they
became too aggressive. When night came, the Indians, by
that time in possession of all the surrounding hills, had the
214 THE BLACK HILLS; OR
two commands completely environed, and had not darkness
intervened to put a stop to further hostilities that night,
they would, in all probability, have shared the fate of
Custer.
That night, after the battle was over, the united tribes of
Indians held high carnival in the village below, in savage
celebration of their bloody victory — nor did they in the
least try to conceal their unbounded joy.
Hundreds of huge bonfires were built through the village,
and what with the continuous discharge of firearms (they
had plenty of ammunition), the beating of tomtoms; wild
exultant whooping and yelling, scalp-dancing, etc., pande-
monium reigned supreme. All the night through they
kept up their savage orgies in which, it is thought, human
heads were paraded, — as several were found afterwards
severed from the bodies. They were working themselves
up to a pitch of frenzy that boded no quarter on the mor-
row to the weary men on the bluffs, who could from their
position hear and see neurly the whole fantastic proceed-
ing,—not a very inspiring spectacle under the circum-
stances, one would think.
When the fighting had ceased for the night, and the
Indians had for the greater part withdrawn to the village,
scouts were dispatched to find some trace of Custer's com-
mand, but they soon returned, reporting that the country
was full of "Sioux." By this time, when they could
breathe more freely, and think more rationally, everybody
beoan to wonder what had become of Custer. " What's
the matter with Custer?" " Why don't he send us word
what he wants us to do?" All sorts of speculations were
indulged in, and all kinds of theories advanced but the
true one. The general opinion expressed was that he had
had a battle, was repulsed, and had gone down the river to
meet Terry, and would soon return to their relief.
The most intense excitement prevailed among the troops
on the bluffs. A curious hallucination, in which there is
something inexpressibly pathetic, took possession of the
men — arising doubtless from the excessive mental and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 215
physical strain of the day past. Some imagined they could
see, in the refracted light of the numerous Indian bonfires
on the opposite bluffs, columns of troops advancing over
the ridges ; they fancied they could hear, amid the din and
/ confusion of their savage orgies, the tramping of horses,
the command of officers, and even the trumpeter's call.
So confident were some that either Gen. Crook or Gen-
Terry's command was approaching, that guns were fired,
and "stable call" sounded to let them know their exact
position, and that they were friends.
One man mounted a horse and galloped along the line,
crying, " Don't be discouraged, boys, Crook is coming! "
Poor fellows, it was but a phantasy ; no reinforcements
came to their support for the morrow's battle.
Realizing that with the dawn of day the Indians would
return to the siege, the whole of that terrible night was
spent in making preparations for their defense. The
soldiers were put to work digging trenches, and as there
were but few shovels and spades in the command, all kinds
of implements, axes, hatchets, halves of canteens, tin cups,
and even table knives and forks were brought into service.
Long before the sun had tipped the distant mountain
peaks, and while the tired soldiers were yet digging in the
trenches, the Indians opened fire upon them, — a few
straggling shots at first, but as the day advanced they
were heavily reinforced, and the firing became more gen-
eral, fierce and furioU'S, but not as effective as the savages
could wish for, as many of the troops were then in their
rifle pits. Finding their shots were being to a great ex-
tent wasted, they adopted the policy of trying to exhaust
the ammunition of their opponents, by a few cunning
devices designed to invite the fire of the troops. The first
invitation was to stand as a target, in full view, for a min-
ute, and then drop suddenly out of sight, which they soon
found to be a rather dangerous experiment; then they tried
the ruse of raising a hat and blanket on a stick or pole,
but the soldiers of the Seventh Cavalry had fought Indians
too often to be deceived by such old fashioned tactics.
216 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
In brief, a continuous fusillade was kept up on both sides,
with an occasional volley from the Indians, for the greater
part of the day.
Some brilliant sorties were made by troop commanders
of Benteen's command, which it would appear was most
exposed to the fire of the Indians, who made numerous
attempts to run into his lines. At one time Benteen made
a bold charge against an aggressive party of Indians, driving
them nearly to the river.
At about one o'clock p. m. when the situation was most
critical, the ammunition being nearly exhausted, the Indians
for the most part withdrew.
Up to this time this soldiers, having been entirely cut off
from the river, had suffered intensely with thirst. Their
tongues had become parched and swollen, their lips were
cracked and bleeding ; every drop of moisture in the glands
of the body having been absorbed. In the hope of finding
relief they resorted to chewing grass roots, but without ef-
fect. As a last resort, raw potatoes were sparingly doled
out to the famished men, which in small measure lessened
their terrible suffering. The sickening stench from the
rapidly decomposing dead added to the horrors of the situa-
tion. The wounded and the dying — ah, pitying heaven ! —
lay under the burning rays of a pitiless sun, begging in
vain for a drop of water to cool their fevered tongues.
Dr. Porter, the army surgeon, never leaving his post of
duty, moved like a ministering spirit from one to another
of his suffering patients, doing what he could, but without
a drop of water with which to cleanse their bleeding wounds.
Numerous attempts had been made by volunteers to
reach the water but they were as often driven back by a
rain of bullets from the Indians, who were ever on the
alert. Capt. Benteen once made a bold charge to the river
under the protection of a skirmish line exposed to a
galling fire, in response to the piteous appeal of the
wounded soldiers, which brave act alone is suflScient to
render his name immortal for all time.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 217
At about 2 p. m. the Indians returned to the attack,
driving the soldiers again into the trenches. They kept
up a kind of desultory firing until about 3 o'clock p. m.
when they withdrew altogether.
Later in the afternoon a few horsemen appeared in the
valley below and set fire to the grass, and at 7 o'clock
they were seen to emerge from behind the cloud of smoke
and move in an immense mass across the plateau between
the two Horns towards the Big Horn Mountains. Had they
abandoned the siege for good, or was it another ruse?
Perhaps they were moving their squaws, papooses and non-
combatants away to a safe distance, intending to return
with all their fighting warriors for a last desperate attempt
to drive the soldiers from their intrenchments. Perchance
information of the near approach of Terry's and Gibbon's
commands with Gen. Custer's battalion had been heralded
to them and they were hurrying away to the fastnesses of
the mountains to avoid them. These were the various
theories suggested in reference to the last movement of the
Indians. As the sequel proved, the latter theory was the
true one in all save that Custer and his battalion were not
of them.
The two days' fight resulted in the loss of eighteen killed
and fifty-two wounded.
The commands, doubtful as to the real intentions of the
Indians, remained in their position that night. At about 9
o'clock the next morning, June 27th, the third day after
the Custer battle, their attention was attracted by a cloud
of dust rising in the distance down the valley. The first
thought was that the Indians were returning for a last
desperate attack. The tired soldiers again began to make
hurried preparations for the expected battle. Soon, how-
ever, they became satisfied that the approaching forces
were soldiers, and not Indians, as their march seemed
altogether too slow for the dashing savages.
After nearly an hour of suspense, the cavalcade appeared
in sight. No gray-horse troop was to be seen in the column ;
218 THE BLACK HILLS; OU,
SO it could not be Terry, or Custer would be with him.
Then it must be Crook's command. Cheer after cheer was
given for Gen. Crook who was coming to their relief.
They had not yet learned that Crook's command had been
placed hors de combat on the headwaters of the Rosebud
ten days before.
They were not long kept in uncertainty, for soon a scout
came into their lines bearing a note from Gen. Terry
to Custer dated June 26th, which stated that two Crow
scouts had given information that his (Custer's) column
had been whipped and nearly all killed, but that he did not
believe their story and was coming with medical aid. The
scout told that he had tried to get within their lines the
night before, but could not as the Indians were on the alert.
Let it be understood here that no attack of the Indian
village on the 25th was contemplated in the plan of opera-
tions nor anticipated by Custer, but finding himself con-
fronted by the enemy sooner than expected, he felt com-
pelled to make the attack on that day, or allow the Indians
to escape.
Soon after an officer of Terry's command came into their
lines, and the first question asked of him was: " Where is
Custer?"
" I don't know," replied the officer, but I suppose he
was killed. We counted 197 dead bodies as we passed the
battle-ground, and I don't suppose any escaped."
That was the first intimation they had received of Custer's
fate nearly two whole days and nights after the battle.
" Gen. Terry and staff, and officers of Gen. Gibbon's
command, soon approached and their coming was greeted
with prolonged cheers.
" The grave countenance of the General awed the men to
silence. The officers assembled to meet their guests. There
was scarcely a dry eye; hardly a word was spoken, but
quivering lips and hearty grasping of hands, gave token of
thankfulness for the relief, and grief for the misfortune,"
relates Lieut. Godfrey.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 219
On that evening, the 27th, the dead, killed in Reno's two
days' fight, were buried ; the wounded were removed to the
camp of Gen. Terry, where they could receive the treat-
ment and care of which they were in such sore need.
On the morning of the 28th the soldiers left the bluffs
to bury the dead of Custer's command. Let us precede
them, and view the scene where the heroes fell ; — the
scene of Custer's last battle.
Let us march in sad and silent procession, down the
valley two miles (perhaps more) and climb the first con-
siderable bluff on the right of the Little Horn, and about
a half mile therefrom and there — ah, what a sickening,
grewsome spectacle meets the horrified gaze ! All over the
battle-ground lay the nude, mutilated bodies of the dead
soldiers ; officers and men, rider and horse, all lying in
promiscuous blending; some with faces upturned to the
blue and smiling sky; others, with faces prone to the
earth, as if biting the dust; some wearing an expression of
sweet, restful peace; others a pained, horrified expression ;
many mutilated bej^ond recognition. Heaps of exploded
cartridges lay thickly strewn over the battle-ground.
On the hill known as " Custer's Hill," where the gal-
lant commander with three of his troops evidently made
their last determined stand, we find Custer, victor in many
a previous hard-fought Indian battle, with a bullet hole in
his temple, and another through his body, but with no
other marks of disfigurement. A little distance away —
we hardly recognize the face so horribly mutilated, of the
brave, large-hearted Tom Custer, and hard by lies the
young, inexperienced Boz, (Boston Custer), whom his
brother, the General, so much delighted to tease — and
the mother's darling. God pity her.
A little to the left of Cust-er's field is " Crittenden's
Hill," where the dismounted troops of Calhoun and Keogh
desperately fought and fell — where the same sad spec-
tacle confronts us. Some of the dead are found down near
the river ; these, it is thought, were trying to make their
220 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
escape, or, perhaps, had been dispatched as messengers to
Reno's command on the bluff above. This, however, is
wholly conjectural.
The terrible mutilation of the body of Capt. Tom Cus-
ter is laid at the door of the monster Rain-in-the-Faee,
who had sworn to be avenged on the gallant officer, who
had the courage to arrest him for the crime of murderinof
two defenseless men near Fort Lincoln. Upon an occa-
sion, when Rain-in-the-Face was drawing his ration at his
agency, Capt. Custer stepped up behind him, pinned down
his arms and manacled him, in the presence of hundreds of
Indians ; had him taken to Fort Lincoln and placed in
prison. He afterwards made his escape, vowing that he
would tear out and eat the heart of his brave captor at the
first opportunity. That he fulfilled to the letter the first
part of his vow is known, and that he fulfilled the latter is
believed.
Among those killed on Reno's retreat from the valley
was Charlie Reynolds, one of Custer's long tried and most
trusted scouts. It is related that the brave fellow sold his
life very dearly. After exhausting the cartridges, in both
his gun and revolver, he was seen to deal such a fierce blow
with the latter, on the head of an Indian, in close combat,
that it broke, thus leaving him at the mercy of the enemy.
He soon fell shuttered by a volley of bullets.
Reynolds was with Custer on his expedition into the
Black Hills in 1874, at which time he was sent with dis-
patches from the Cheyenne river to Fort Laramie, through
the hostile country, enduring hardships and privations,
from which he never fully recover.
His early life was wrapped in complete mystery. If he
had a secret that darkened his life, as some suspected,
he guarded it well, as he skillfully evaded all questions,
even from his most intimate friends, referring to his
antecedents.
All of the slain were buried on the battle-ground where
they fell — ground afterwards (in 1879) set apart by the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 221
government as a national cemetery, where an imposing
monument was erected to the memory of the dead.
In August, 1879, Gen. Custer's remains were removed
from their temporary resting-place and buried with impos-
ing honors at West Point, N. Y., where they now repose,
almost in the shadow of the buildings where he was
trained in the science and tactics of civilized warfare.
Custer's body appears to have been the only one to es-
cape mutilation. Whether the sacrilegious hands of the
savages were stayed by a sentiment of admiration for the
wonderful bravery of the fair-haired chief, or by a super-
stitious fear of the wrath of the great Manitou, is a matter
for speculation.
It is related that Chief Gall, on being questioned as to
the reason why Custer was not scalped, said: "No one
knew him from anyone else. His hair was cut short, and
we could not tell him from any other."
This statement, however, seems highly improbable, as he
had often been seen by muny of the Indian chiefs engaged
in the battle, and also wore the uniform of his rank, which
in itself would distinguish him from any of the others.
Rude stretchers were soon constructed to convey the
wounded of Reno's two-days' battle to the forks of the Big
Horn — a distance of perhaps twenty miles — where they
were placed on board the steamer Far West, which con-
veyed them to Fort Abraham Lincoln, with the news of the
awful disaster to the gallant Seventh Regiment.
222 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XYIT.
NEWS OF THE TERRIBLE DISASTER REACHES THE BLACK
HILLS.
News traveled slowly in 1876, before the advent of rail-
roads in the Northwest, and was long reaching the people
of the Black Hills. All information of the movements of
the forces sent out against the hostiles hud then to be
carried either down the Missouri by steamer to Eastern
points, or across a long stretch of country over the trails
west of the Hills, to Fort Laramie, thence by mail to the
Black Hills; so, not until about the 10th of July did the
awful tidings, that crushed the hearts and blotted all
brightness out of the lives of the anxious wailing wives of
the slain heroes of the Little Big Horn, reach them at
Fort Lincoln; and not till ten days later did the shocking
news, that meant so much to the people of the Black Hills,
reach Deadwood (the center of population in the Hills
in 1876), and other points in direct communication with
the outer world.
The intelligence came to the people of the Hills like a
mighty blow from an unseen hand — stunning, striking them
dumb by its very suddenness. At first, many refused to
believe the shocking story. That Custer had met with
reverses they admitted was probable, that his entire bat-
talion had been annihilated was not believed possible.
However, as the source from which the information
emanated left little room for question, soon all doubt of
the truth of the story vanished. All were in a state of
intense excitement in the city of Deadwood. An extra of
the Pioneer was speedily struck off, and distributed along
Deadwood, Whitewood, and tributary gulches. That great
throbbing, busy mining camp, with its thousands of cosmo-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 223
politan population, was stirred to the depths, from center
to circumference, as tlie news spread from claim to claim.
The scene presented along the main street of Dead wood,
on the evening of that day, when the miners gathered in
from all the neighboring gulches, was one not soon to be
forgotten. The excited, swaying, jostling masses, surging
to and fro on both sides of the long, narrow street ; the
eager groups of men gathered at the doors of numerous
business houses in excited discussion of the terrible dis-
aster, gave evidence of how deeply and universally the
people of the Hills of all classes were touched by the unex-
pected calamity. Even the many gambling resorts that
lined the street were silent for the nonce; the roulette
tables, the faro banks, and other games had lost their
fascination, and the click, click, clicking of the chips fell
not for a brief time on the accustomed ear — alas, how
brief !
The story of Custer's tragic death soon reached the
remote mining camps scattered through the Hills, and no
doubt the eyes of many a hardy miner and prospector in
their lone huts under the shadow of the Hills, grew moist
at the revelation, for many of the early prospectors knew
him well, and loved him.
Mingled with the general expression of sorrow and
regret at the fate of Custer and his men, were bitter
denunciations of the dilatory policy of the government in
dealing with the Indians, thereby permitting the lives and
property of the people of the Hills to be jeopardized.
The Indian campaign had, thus far, proved barren of
good results. Crook's column had been reversed; Terry's
column had met with dire disaster; Sitting Bull and his
warriors had escaped to the mountains, bearing with them
the trophies of victory. The hedge of security that had
temporarily been thrown around the Black Hills had been
pulled down and torn up by the roots, leaving their borders
exposed to the ravages of the savage hordes, who, the
people feared, might any day swoop down from the moun-
224 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
tains upon the exposed settlements *' like wolves on the
fold." And our worst fears were in a large measure real-
ized, for soon after, returning bands of the hostiles began
again to ply their work of murder and theft in and around
the Hills, frequently making bold dashes right into the
limits of thickly-settled communities, driving off stock be-
fore the eyes of their owners, and killing whenever it was
possible. For two months during the summer of 1876,
notwithstanding the excellent organizations for protection
and defense, the people of the Hills were terrorized by the
boldness of their operations, which will be specially
referred to further on in this work.
The following verses, couched in the expressive dialect
of the plains, from the pen of an early Black Hills pioneer,
Capt. Jack Crawford, the " poet scout," to his friend,
Buffalo Bill, a brother scout, lamenting the sad fate of
Custer, under whom they both served, is well worth pre-
serving, not only on account of its merits, and the popu-
larity of the author, but as a specimen of real Black Hills
literature : —
1.
Did I hear the news from Custer?
Well, I reckon I did, old pard.
It came like a streak o' lightning,
And you bet, it hit me hard.
I ain't no hand to blubber,
And the briny ain't run for years,
But chalk me down for a lubber
If I didn't shed regular tears.
2.
What for? Now, look ye here. Bill;
You're a bully boy, that's true.
As good as ever wore buckskin.
Or fought vv'ith the boys in blue.
But I'll bet my bottom dollar,
Ye had no trouble to muster
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 225
A tear, or perhaps a hundred,
When ye heard of the death of Custer.
3.
He always thought well of you, pard ;
And, had it been Heaven's will.
In a few more days you'd met him,
And he'd welcome his old scout Bill ;
For, if you remember, at Hat Creek
I met ye with General Carr,
We talked of the brave young Custer,
And recounted his deeds of war.
4.
But still, we knew even then, pard.
And that's just two weeks ago.
How little we dreamed of disaster.
Or that he had met the foe.
That the fearless, reckless hero.
So loved by the whole frontier.
Had died on the field of battle.
In this, our Centennial year.
I served with him in the army.
In the darkest days of the war,
And I reckon, ye know his record,
For he was our guiding star.
And the boys who gathered round him
To charge in the early morn,
War' jest like the brave who perished
With him on the Little Horn.
6.
And where is the satisfaction,
And how are we going to get square?
15
226 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
By giving the reds more rifles?
Inviting them to take more hair?
We want no scouts, no trappers,
No men who know the frontier,
Phil, old boy, you're mistaken,
You must have the volunteer.
7.
Never mind that 200,000,
But give us 100 instead.
Send 5,000 men toward Reno,
And soon we won't leave you a red.
It will save Uncle Sam lots of money,
In fortress we need not invest.
Just wallop the devils this summer,
And the miners will do all the rest.
The Black Hills is now filled with miners.
The Big Horn will soon be as full,
And which will present the most danger
To Crazy Horse and Old Sitting Bull —
A band of 10,000 frontiersmen.
Or a couple of forts, with a few
Of the boys in the East, now enlisting?
Friend Cody, I leave it with you.
9.
They talk about peace with the demons,
By feeding and clothing tbein well,
I'd as soon think an angel from heaven
Would reign with contentment in hell.
And some day these Quakers will answer.
Before the great Judge of all
For the death of daring young Custer,
And the boys that around him did fall.
GEXERAL CUSTER.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 227
10.
Perhaps, I am judging them harshly?
But I mean what I'm telling ye, pard,
I'm letting them down mighty easy,
Perhaps, they may think it is hard,
But I tell you the day is approaching.
The boys are beginning to muster.
That day of the great retribution,
The day of revenge for our Custer.
11.
And I will be with you, friend Cody,
My weight will go in with the boys,
I shared all their hardships last winter,
I shared all their sorrows and joys.
So tell them I'm coming, friend William,
I trust I will meet you ere long,
Regards to the boys in the mountains,
Yours truly, in friendship still strong.
THE SUMMER CAMPAIGN.
Although the Yellowstone Expedition had, up to that
time, met only with disaster and defeat, the campaign was
by no means abandoned. The respective commands of
Gens. Terry and Crook were soon heavily reinforced, and
on the thirtieth day of July — a little more than a month
after the battles of the Little Big Horn — an order was
received by those officers from Gen. Sheridan to unite their
forces and move at once against the hostiles gathered on
the Rosebud.
In pursuance of instructions from headquarters in Chi-
cago, on the morning of August 5th, Gen. Crook, with
the Second, Third, and Fifth Cavalry regiments in com-
mand of Lieut. 'Col. Carr, and ten companies of the Fourth,
Ninth, and Fourteenth Infantry under Major Chambers,
228 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
numbering in the aggregate about 2,000 well-equipped sol-
diers with a force of volunteer and Crow scouts, accom-
panied by pack trains, set out from his base, on Goose
creek, to join Gen. Terry, stationed on the Yellowstone.
The command took up its line of march, down the valley
of the Tongue river, thence in a northwesterly direction,
over the intervening mountainous bluffs to the valley of the
Rosebud, striking the trail over which Custer and his com-
mand bravely marched to their Waterloo six weeks before.
On the 10th a junction was effected with Gen. Terry
about thirty-five miles above the mouth of that stream, but
as might reasonably have been expected, the birds had
flown — the wary warriors, anxious to avoid a battle with
the soldiers, in their somewhat weakened condition, had
taken flight. It soon became apparent, from the divergent
trails, after leaving the valley of the Rosebud, that the
hostile forces had separated into bands, and it subsequently
developed that Sitting Bull and his adherents had turned
their steps toward the Canadian border, while Crazy Horse
and his following had branched out in the general direction
of the Black Hills. Without loss of time, Gen. Terry's
Fifth Infantry regiment was countermarched to the Yel-
lowstone, for the purpose of patrolling the river and inter-
cepting, if possible, the fleeing savages ; but they were not
to be caught, as they had made good their escape across
the river, and were already on their way towards a place
of refuge on British soil.
The next day, August 11th, hoping to overtake the hostile
bands that had fled to the eastward, the combined forces
crossed the divide, following the trail of the Indians to
the Tongue river, then down the valley of that stream, for
two days' march, then over the divide and down the valley
of Powder river to the Yellowstone, where they arrived on
the 17th, without sighting a single Indian.
After their long forced march over the rough divides,
and down the valleys of the streams, the command, appar-
ently abandoning all hope of overtaking the enemy, de-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 229
cided to halt for a few days for rest and recuperation on
the banks of the Yellowstone.
On the 24th the united forces moved up the Powder
river about twenty miles, and on the 26th Gen. Terry re-
turned with his command to the Yellowstone, while the
forces of Gen. Crook, fortified with the regular rations of
hard tack, bacon, etc., for fifteen days, began their terrible
march eastward across the country, in distant pursuit of
the fugitive bands. For ten days they plodded along for
the most time through rain and mud, bivouacking at night
on the sodden ground; enduring, with the soldier's pro-
verbial philosophy, all the trying discomforts of the march
without a murmur, reaching the head of Heart river, on
the evening of September the 5th. As up this time no
Indians had been seen, the conclusion was reached that
they had turned their course in the direction of the Black
Hills, which conclusion determined the subsequent move-
ment of the commanding general.
In the gray of the following morning, September 6th,
Gen. Crook instead of continuing his course east to Fort
Lincoln — as some of the weary soldiers hoped he might
do, being the most available point at which to replenish
their nearly exhausted supplies, — marched his command
due south, through a wholly unknown country, crossing the
Cannon Ball, the two forks of the Grand and the Moreau
rivers towards the Black Hills, under the most inauspicious
circumstances. Many of the trails appeared to lead in
the direction of the Hills, to whose people Gen. Crook,
fully realizing their imminent peril, was anxious to give
protection.
Gen. Crook's command was at this time in a truly
deplorable condition. Eatious were well-nigh exhausted;
officers and men being forced to resort to horseflesh to sat-
isfy gaunt hunger. Horses became so jaded that many had
to be abandoned altogether; thus compelling cavalrymen
to join the ranks of the infantry, who, footsore and weary,
had often to wade through mud nearly knee-deep, — the
230 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
rain beins; almost incessant durins; the last week of that
memorable march. Mud and water covered the face of the
land along the valleys of the streams, and the exhausted
soldiers were fortunate indeed if they had not to lie in pools
of water at night — not a very delectable bed for a tired
body. In short, it may be said that Crook's command suf-
fered hardships, exposure, and privations during the closing
days of the summer campaign against the hostiles, rarely
paralleled in the annals of military marches. Nothing
daunted, however, by the difficulties in the way, the expe-
dition marched bravely on as rapidly as the limitations
would permit.
Tiring of the monotony of horse steak straight, on the
night of the 7th of August, Capt. Mills, with 150 of the
best mounted troopers of the Third Cavalry, was detailed
to make a dash ahead to the nearest settlements for the
purpose of procuring supplies for the command. On reach-
ing the vicinity of Slim Buttes he surprised a village of
Brule Sioux, under Chief Eoraan Nose, capturing about 400
ponies and other property, including a quantity of dried
meat, and making a number of the braves prisoners.
Among the property found in their possession was a Sev-
enth Cavalry guidon, a number of saddles and officers' uni-
forms, the gauntlets of the brave Capt. Keogh, and three
Seventh Cavalry horses — proof that the band were red-
handed from the Little Big Horn.
A courier mounted on the swiftest horse was dispatched
in hot haste to meet the approaching column, with news of
the surprise and capture, and a request from Capt. Mills
that a force be sent with all possible speed to his support,
as there was danger that the escaped warriors might return
with reinforcements, sufficient to overpower him. The
news of the surprise and capture was hailed by the soldiers
with exceeding delight, and the prospect of having a pas-
sage with the hostiles inspired them to a high degree of
enthusiasm — for in truth, they would have preferred more
fighting: and less marching through the rain and mud — be-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 231
sides, they felt that they were owing the savages a big
debt, which they were exceedingly anxious to pay.
Without delay the cavalry forces eagerly galloped to the
scene of danger, and closely in their wake followed the
infantry. Before noon of that day the command had
arrived. It was learned from the prisoners that Crazy
Horse's village of 300 lodges was only twenty miles away,
but owing to the fatigue of the men, and the jaded condi-
tion of the horses, it was deemed advisable not to move
against the village, but to wait for an attack by the
Indians. As was anticipated, about four o'clock p. m.
Crazy Horse with his warriors dashed upon the scene, with
fierce warwhoop, brandishing their arms and otherwise
demonstrating their fell purpose of speedily annihilating
Gen. Crook's entire command and recapturing their
ponies.
This time, however, they reckoned without their hosts.
Quickly the command formed into a line of defense around
the captured village and property and opened a brisk fire
upon the attacking savage forces.
It is no part of Indian fighting tactics to stand in solid
phalanx to be shot at, as do trained soldiers, so, in the
manner peculiar to them, the mounted warriors rode wildly
hither and yon for a short time, then circled round and
round the environed village, meanwhile returning the fire
of the troops, in search of a pregnable point through which
they could make a sudden dash and recapture the lost
ponies. No such weak point was to be found in the lines,
the command standing as firm and solid as a stone wall.
The lines stood bravely and unflinchingly facing the shot
of the yelling savages, until darkness put a stop to the
conflict, when the Indians withdrew, bearing away the
dead bodies of a number of their braves, without accom-
plishing their purpose.
In this fight at Slim Buttes Gen. Crook lost twenty men,
while Crazy Horse it was thought lost many more; how-
ever, their loss could not positively be ascertained, as
232 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Indians always bear away their slain warriors, when they
fall, at any personal risk.
By the time the smoke of battle had cleared away, the
soldiers again began to realize that remorseless hunger
was gnawing at their vitals; to satisfy which fortunately
the dried meat, a part of the fruits of Capt. Mills' con-
quest, was available, — an agreeable change from the horse
meat, upon which they had principally subsisted for the
few previous days.
The command camped that night on the field of battle,
and in the early morning resumed its march Black
Hills-ward leaving the First Cavalry battalion, under Major
Upham, to destroy the village. Hardly was the rear of the
main column out of sight, before the Indians renewed the
attack, but being severely repulsed, they withdrew and
were not again seen.
The march of Crook's command from Crow creek to
Crook City, — which has fittingly been designated the
"Mud March," was one long to be remembered by the
soldiers. Some of the nearly famished infantry men were
disposed to give up the terrible struggle altogether; a few
succumbed, and sank down in their tracks from sheer ex-
haustion, unwilling to make any farther exertion, and only
by much urging and persuasion could they be induced to
stagger to their feet and renew the struggle. Numerous
cavalry horses, worn out by the hard forced march and
insufficient feed, had to be left behind.
On the 13th Capt. Mills, who had again, on the night of
the 10th, been dispatched ahead to the settlements, started
back supplies to meet the command, which had that same
day crossed the swollen Belle Fourche and encamped on
the south bank of that stream. Relief was near at hand,
for soon after going into camp the hearts of the hungry
soldiers were made glad by the arrival of a small herd of
beef cattle, followed a little later by several wagon loads
of supplies, forwarded by citizens of Deadwood to relieve
the needs of the soldiers of the command.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 233
In response to an invitation from ttie Common Council
of the city Gen. Crook and staff visited Dead wood, where
they were accorded a hearty welcome and generous hos-
pitality, in grateful recognition of the services of the gal-
lant commander in behalf of the people of the Hills. A
public reception, at which the polished and genial Gen.
Dawson acted as master of ceremonies, was held, when his
many friends in Deadwood and surrounding camps had an
opportunity of grasping the hand of the brave Indian
fighter. On the 27th, in acknowledgment of the courtesies
extended on that occasion, Gen. Crook sent the subjoined
letter to Deadwood, from headquarters at Omaha : —
Headquarters Dept. of the Platte, )
Omaha, Sept. 27th, 1876. 5
Gentlemen: At this, the earliest moment, I desire to
acknowledge the courtesy of the resolutions passed by
your honorable body, inviting me to accept the hospitality
of your city, and likewise to express, in behalf of myself
and staff, a most grateful appreciation of kindness bestowed
upon us while with your. To your Mayor, E. B. Farnum,
and Messrs. Kurtz, Philbrook, and Dawson, for the thor-
ough manner in which their duties as a committee were
carried out, I desire to make known our feelings of lasting
indebtedness.
Your obedient servant,
Geo. Crook, Brig. -General.
To Mayor and Council of Deadwood.
After a few days of much-needed rest, Crook's com-
mand marched from Crook to Custer City, where it
remained in camp until the early part of October, when,
after a short reconnoissance down the south fork of the
Cheyenne river, it returned to Bufi'alo Gap, thence pro-
ceeded directly to Fort Niobrara in Nebraska, where the
expedition disbanded October 14th, 1876.
Thus, after nearly nine months of uninterrupted service,
ended the Yellowstone Expedition of 1876; and although
234 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
tKe great Indian campaign was marked by no signal victories
in battle, it resulted in effectually breaking up the gigantic
combination of the hostile tribes, driving their standard-
bearer, a fugitive, towards the Canadian border, and scat-
tering other hostile bands in the direction of their agencies,
whither many of the least warlike soon went, thus accom-
plishing in great measure the object for which the campaign
was inaug-urated.
In disbanding Gen. Crook made the following address to
his command : —
"In the campaign now closed, I have been obliged to
call upon you for much hard service and many sacrifices of
personal comfort. At times you have been out of reach of
your base of supplies in most inclement weather, and have
marched without food and slept without shelter. In your
engagements you have evinced a high order of discipline
and courage; in your marches, wonderful powers of en-
durance, and in your deprivations and hardships, patience
and fortitude.
•' Indian warfare is, of all warfares, the most trying and
the most thankless. Not recognized by the United States
Congress as war, it possesses for you all the disadvantages
of civilized warfare, with all the horrible accompaniments
that barbarism can invent and savages execute. In it you
are required to serve without the incentive of promotion
or recognition, in truth, without favor or the hope of
reward. The people of our sparsely settled frontier in
whose defense you have labored, have but little influence
with the powerful communities in the East; their repre-
sentatives have little voice in our national councils,
while your savage foes are not only the wards of the
government and supported in idleness by the nation, but
objects of sympathy with large numbers of people other-
wise well-informed and discerning. You may therefore
congratulate yourselves that in the performance of your
military duty you have been on the side of the weak against
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 235
the strong, and that the few people on the frontier will
remember your efforts with gratitude.
General George Crook."
Soon after the disbandment of Crook's command,
in October, a detachment of soldiers under command of
Major Brown, was sent from Fort Robinson to protect the
people of the Black Hills from the depredations of Crazy
Horse, who maintained a hostile attitude towards the people
until April, 1877, when he surrendered and active hostilities
on the part of Indians came to a close.
However, not until about four years later, after having
met with several bad defeats at the hands of Gen. iNIiles,
did the Sioux tribes manifest a willingness to surrender and
return to their agencies, which they finally did about the
1st of June, 1881, when they came down the Missouri
river in steamboats by the hundreds to the Missouri river
agencies.
236 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XYIII.
1876.
The year 187(3 may be accounted the crucial period of
Blacli Hills pioneer history. It was essentially the chaotic
period; the era of disorder and crime, when, in the absence
of civil law, might struggled for the mastery over right ;
the period when danger followed closely on the trail of the
wayfarer, all along the line of march into the Hills, hover-
ing on their flanks during the day, and stalking about their
carapfires at night; the period when danger lurked behind
each cliff and headland along the borders, and peered in
at the door of every rude cabin in the mining settlements,
near their limits; the year when the pioneers had to do
yeoman service in battling with the blood-thirsty Sioux
for the establishment of civilization in the Black Hills,
many losing their lives, others escaping death by a very
narrow margin indeed. In short, the year 1876 was one
prolonged tragedy. Ah, what memories cluster around
those four simple figures! Even as I write them, many
of the scenes of that exciting period come trooping
past, in mental review ; familiar faces and figures rise
up in spectral phalanx like the ghosts of those who
were but are not.
SOME OF THE EXPEDITIONS OF 1876.
The spirit of dangerous unrest, stirred up by the emis-
saries of Sitting Bull, at the different agencies, in the early
spring of 1876, when immigration to the Black Hills was
at its flood, resulted in filling the country with numerous
marauding bands of painted warriors, armed and equipped
for the Yellowstone, who hung along the lines of travel
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 237
for the purpose of plunder and theft, incidentally killing
all those who interfered with the accomplishment of their
purpose. Their early operations consisted principally in
running off the horses of the many expeditions making
their way over the plains to the Hills. Of course, they
were not always successful, but it sometimes happened
that an expedition, despite the vigilance of its members,
would wake up of a bright morning to find its train of
loaded wagons stranded on the broad prairie, minus the
major part of the motive power, in which case pursuit of
the thieves immediately followed. A posse of plucky men
would quickly saddle the few horses that were left, buckle
on their cartridge belts, mount and give chase. Following
up the trail of the red thieves, they would sometimes over-
take them and recover the stolen property, at the cost
perhaps of two or three of their number; more frequently,
however, the stolen stock was never recovered.
The horse-stealing proclivities of the Indians is exem-
plified in the case of the Hildebrand party while en route
to the Black Hills in the spring of 1876.
This expedition, of which L. F. Hildebrand and family
were a part, left Bismarck for the Black Hills, about the
last of March, 1876. Mr. Hildebrand had been an old-
time prospector and miner in Montana, and was therefore
schooled in the successes and reverses of mining camps, as
well as the dangers incident to Western pioneer life, and
had also doubtless learned something of the natural moral
turpitude of the red man. At all events, at the end of the
first day's march, the expedition closely corralled their
wagons, secured their horses with picket ropes a short dis-
tance away, and encircled the camp and stock with a body
of armed guards, as a precaution against possible attack.
A visit on the first night out was hardly looked for, but
contrary to their expectations, at about 3 o'clock on the
morning of April 1st, just as the moon had disappeared
behind the western horizon, a large band of Standing Kock
hostiles made a sudden dash through the line of guards
238
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 239
and commenced a rapid firing on the camp — some of the
band, meanwhile, trying to cut loose and stampede the
horses. In an instant after the first sound of alarm the
whole camp was aroused, and the men were rushing through
a storm of bullets to protect and save the stock. Mr. Hii-
debrand with the aid of his two eldest sous, mere lads at
the time, succeeded in securing his individual stock and
leading them safely within the circle of wagons. All, how-
ever, were not so fortunate, as in less time than it takes to
relate the occurrence, the Indians, with twenty-two head of
horses belonging to the expedition, were riding away with
the speed of the wind towards the cottonwoods along the
Missouri river bottoms. Quickly a posse was organized
and started in hot pursuit on their trail, overtaking the
band about twenty miles distant from camp, and by some
lively skirmishing recovering every head of the stolen prop-
erty. Soon after, however, the Indians surrounded the
posse, and in an attempt to recapture the stock a fierce fight
took place, resulting in the death of one and the wounding
of two of the pursuing party, and the killing of nine of
their horses. The battle raged for three or four hours,
ending in a victory for the owners of the stock, who then
returned to camp with the thirteen head that had escaped
the deadly bullets of the red skins.
The Indians were, by no means, always responsible for
the many thieving raids made on the herds of expeditions
along the lines in 1876. Their white brethren of the craft
were not a Avhit behind them, and, if possible, even more
dangerous from the standpoint of actual loss. At a very
early date in 1876, regularly organized gangs of white
horse thieves — if a horse thief can be called white — began
plying their nefarious vocation of stealing and running off
stock, regardless of ownership, wherever found and when-
ever a safe opportunity offered itself ; and the oi:)erations
of these banded robbers were so shrewdly planned, and
skillfully carried out, aided and abetted, as they were
believed to be, by accomplices under the guise of respect-
240 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ability and lionesty, that the stolen property was seldom
recovered. Sometimes whole herds would be spirited away
in the night and led over devious ways and effectually con-
cealed amid the fastnesses, leaving no clue that might lead
to their hiding-place.
Perhaps the most serious loss inflicted by these outlaws in
1876 was sustained by Chas. Sasse & Co., in the spring of
that year, in Red Canyon, where Persimmons Bill's gang
despoiled him of every hoof of the stock belonging to his
train, leaving him stranded with his family and loads of
valuable merchandise, in the dangerous bloody canyon.
On the 11th day of March, 1876, Mr. Sasse and family,
accompanied by a small party of men, left Cheyenne,
Wyoming, with a train of 100 mules and twenty-five
wagons, freighted with a $10,000 cargo of " Early Times "
whisky for the Black Hills market. I say Black Hills
market, because it is neither reasonable nor safe to even in-
sinuate that Mr. Sasse was transporting, through a danger-
ously hostile country, such a quantity of the " fiery fluid "
for his sole individual use. Be that as it may, as I first
asserted, Mr. Sasse & Co. left Cheyenne with $10,000
worth, in real commercial value, of '* Early Times " whisky
for the Black Hills, which finally found its way into the
Deadwood market.
This was probably the first extensive cargo of that kind
of merchandise brought to the Black Hills.
Besides the train of loaded wagons, Mr. Sasse had a team
of horses and a wagon for his family and the transporta-
tion of their private belongings.
The journey proved devoid of accident or interesting in-
cident until reaching to within a day's march of the Chey-
enne river stage station, where his team gave out, and, as
no Indians had been seen, he decided to halt for a day's
rest. They had not been long in camp before Indians were
discovered on the distant blufi's overlooking the trail, when
Mr. Sasse, realizing the extreme danger of delay, at once
pulled out with his exhausted team to try to overtake the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 241
train. On reaching the stage station (the suspected head-
quarters of the gang, then kept by Persimmons Bill and
two brothers, one of whom, a veritable giant, was known as
Big John) they were approached by the proprietors and
urged to remain at the station that night, as the redskins
were thick on the trail.
Viewed in the light of the subsequent wholesale theft,
they seemed suspiciously anxious, to their credit be it
said, that Mrs. Sasse should not be with the train at the
time of the intended raid, as there might be occasion for
more or less shooting. However, Mr. Sasse, heedless of
their importunities, pressed on and joined the train in Red
Canyon. That night while the camp was wrapped in mid-
night slumbers, all unconscious of the impending calamity,
the gang, according to their prearranged plan, stole stealth-
ily into camp and quietly took possession of 100 mules and a
span of horses, and noiselessly led them away out of the can-
yon , then over divergent routes to a secure hiding-place . The
next morning an attempt was made to trace up the stolen
stock, but all clue being lost in the bewildering mazes of
the numerous devious trails, the property was never found.
Upon discovering the state of affairs in the morning, Mr.
Sasse was forced to return to the Cheyenne river station
and enlist the services of Big John to transport his family
to Custer City.
Perhaps few of our early pioneers had a more thrilling
experience with the savage marauders than Capt. C. V.
Gardner, who, with others, literally fought their way to
the Black Hills through bands of hostile Sioux in the spring
of 1876. It was on the occasion of his second visit to the
Hills that Capt. Gardner's right of way into their once
happy hunting-ground was disputed mile by mile with the
red men, his first trip being made over an unmolested trail
without " let or hindrance." To all lovers of adventure,
the following brief account of Capt. Gardner's first and
second journey to the Hills may be of interest.
16
242 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Capt. Gardner, with whose name all old residents of the
Black Hills are familiar, arrived in Cheyenne in the early
part of March, or perhaps the latter part of February,
1876, en route for the New Eldorado. During the latter part
of the former month, after having purchased the necessary
equipments for the journey, including a wagon heavily
freighted with merchandise and supplies, he left that early
outfitting point for ihe Black Hills, leaving his goods in
charge of his partner, known afterwards in the Hills as
'< Deaf Thompson." Mounting the stage with his sturdy
rifle by his side, he sped on his way to Fort Laramie,
thence by mail wagon to old Red Cloud Agency. Here he
provided himself with an Indian pony and employed a half-
breed Sioux to guide him over the unknown country to
Custer at an agreed compensation of $25.00, and all he
could realize on the Black Hills mail committed to his
(Gardner's) charge by the postal authorities at Red
Cloud.
A little after midnight Capt. Gardner and his dusky guide
left the agency, and directing their course by the pole-
star Black Hills-ward, sleeping nights under the blue starlit
canopy without shelter, with lariat ropes secured to their
wrists as a safeguard against thieving Indians, reached
Buffalo Gap on the third day out from the agency. Travel-
ing up Buffalo Gap Canyon three or four miles, they found
on the trail three disabled wagons, from which the horses
had been cut and driven off, and lying about, flour sacks
and trunks, torn and broken open and contents scattered to
the four winds, — the handiwork of the Indians. Continu-
ing their journey towards Custer, when near Point of
Rocks, they came upon the party, whose outfit lay demol-
ished and scattered back in the canyon, consisting of about
forty persons including families, the latter in the most
pitiable state of alarm, some wringing their hands in grief —
lamenting the killing of one of their comrades by the
Indians. With this forlorn party Capt. Gardner camped
for the night, going into Custer on the following mornino;.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 243
After a brief stay of three days in Custer, satisfied as to
the prospective outlook for the Black Hills as a gold-pro-
ducing region, the captain started back on his journey
for Cheyenne with a returning empty freight train and
about 200 disgusted tenderfeet who were turning their
backs upon the Black Hills for all time ; no incident worthy
of note occurring on the outward trip save that of finding
while in camp at Red Canyon, the arrow-pierced body of
the colored woman of the Metz-family-massacre.
On reaching Cheyenne Capt. Gardner purchased 60,000
pounds of merchandise, contracted with Chas. Hecht, then
of Cheyenne, to transport the goods to the Black Hills at
the rate of thirteen and one-fouith cents per pound, and
again started for the Hills by stage to Fort Laramie. At
the Platte river he joined a large party of gold-seekers, also
destined for the Black Hills, among whom were Geo.
Boland, Dick Horsford, and Jack King, popularly known
in the Hills as the Black Hills rhymist, and brother of
" Honest Dick," than whom braver men never crossed
the hostile plains to the Black Hills. The party reached
Hat Creek Station without molestation and camped for
the night. The next morning, however, their tribulations
bet^an, for while at breakfast a band of Indians made a
dashing raid on the herd and tried to stampede their stock,
but, after a brisk skirmish they were driven off without
loss on either side. The train then, with an advance
guard, preceded by six mounted men dispatched ahead as
scouts, traveled on toward the Hills until reaching a point
on the route known as " Down Indian Creek," when the
scouts were seen riding back toward the train at full
speed, followed closely by a half dozen redskins. When
within about twenty rods of the advance guard, the scouts
took position behind a little knoll where they hoped to be
able to defend themselves until the advance guard came to
their assistance. The Indians, however, quickly rode
around to the opposite side of the knoll and fired, killing
one of the scouts and his horse at the first shot, whereupon
244 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the others made a dash for the train which had in the
meantime corralled their wagons. Soon thereafter the train
was attacked by about fifty Indians, who, directing their
fire against the weakest points of the corral, kept up a con-
tinuous fusillade, which was gallantly returned from behind
the barricade of wagons for the space of two hours, when
the Indians withdrew, bearing away five dead braves as the
result of the battle, — the train losing two horses.
At the close of the battle some of the party, tenderfeet,
whose courage was on the wane, concluding that they
already had enough of Indian fighting to last them the rest
of their lives, proposed that the train return at once to
God's own country, and abandon any farther attempt to
reach the Black Hills. A few demurred, agreeing, how-
ever, to leave the question to the decision of the majority.
Accordingly, after burying their dead companion, a meet-
ing was held at which every member voted to take the
backward trail but six, viz.. Jack King, Geo. Boland, Dick
Horsford, Capt. Gardner, and two others. In compliance
with the decision of the majority, the train then reversed
its course and marched back towards Fort Laramie. After
traveling all da3s continually harassed by the Indians,
they were opportunely met by Chas. Hecht's and Street
and Thompson's transportation trains accompanied by
twenty-five or thirty well-armed men. The situation being
explained, the incoming and outgoing trains went into
camp together for the night. Thus reinforced, the timid
members of the homeward bound party took renewed
courage, and at a joint confereuce held that night, they
almost unanimously decided to turn about and fight their
way through the hostile lines into the Hills. The next
day at about nine o'clock, another unsuccessful attempt
was made to run off the stock of the train, shortly after
which the camp was surrounded by, as nearly as could
be estimated, about 500 yelling Indians. A participant in
the fight that followed thought that the whole Sioux
nation might have been engaged in the attack, judg-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 245
ing from the hailstorm of ballets that came hurtlins: against
O 3 0
the barricades from every direction, many of which went
whizzing through the openings between the wagons in un-
pleasant, not to say dangerous, proximity to their heads.
The trainmen, however, returned the compliment by pay-
ing the red-skins back in their own coin, to the extent
of their ability, from behind their breastworks of loaded
wagons. After an hour's fierce battle of bullets, the In-
dians ceased firing and left, to renew the attack later,
with increased numbers, when the train immediately pulled
on for Hat Creek Station.
As the prospect for reaching the Hills, against such de-
termined opposition, seemed remote, they decided at this
critical crisis to invoke the protection of Uncle Sam's sol-
diers. Capt. Gardner and Billy Waugh were delegated to
go as messengers to Fort Laramie to petition the command-
ing officer at that post, for a military escort into the Hills.
Mounting the fleetest horses belonging to the train, the two
messengers started back on their perilous ride for Fort
Laramie, but, on reaching Raw Hide Buttes at 3 o'clock in
the morning, they providentially found encamped, near the
Buttes, a company of cavalry and one of infantry, under
Capt. Egan, sent out from the fort on a scouting expedition
after Indians.
Capt. Egan, upon learning the mission of the messen-
gers, and appreciating the dangerous situation, readily con-
sented to escort the imperiled train, at least beyond the
point of danger. Without a moment's loss of time Gard-
ner and Waugh then returned, with all possible speed, to
Hat creek, when the train pulled out for Indian creek
where Capt. Egan had promised to overtake them — which
he did on the following day. After the arrival of the mil-
itary, Capt. Gardner was placed in charge of the train, by
the commanding oflScer, who, after establishing a military
post at that point, where the infantry remained, started
out with his troops to scour the surrounding country for
marauding Indians. The train again pushed on, but after
246
THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
traveiiDff about ei^ht miles one of the waofons became
disabled, necessitating a halt for repairs. They had
hardly got the wagons corralled, and dinner in process
of preparation, before again the alarming cry of Indians !
Indians ! was heard from different points in the camp.
The cry came just as Capt. Gardner, who it appears was
the breadmaker of his mess, had his hands in the soft
ATTACK ON WAGON TRAIN EN ROUTE TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1876.
dough. Speedily withdrawing his hands from the mixture,
without waiting to wash the sticky substance from them,
or even to discard his kitchen apron — with face, per-
chance, artistically flecked with flour, he, with several
others, snatched their guns and hastened with all possible
speed to the summit of an adjacent hill nearly a half mile
distant from where legions of Sioux warriors, in paint and
feathers, were seen making directly towards them. Quickly
they retreated towards the camp, frequently turning their
faces to see if the tufted heads of the savages had yet
appeared above the crest of the hill. Upon reaching
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 247
camp, a messenger was at once dispatched to Capt. Egan's
post on Indian creek to notify the command that the train
was surrounded by Indians, and in need of speedy assist-
ance. The messenger was a brave lad, not more than
seventeen years of age, who had volunteered his services
for the dangerous undertaking. Mounting a swift horse,
away the courageous boy flew over the backward trail for
Capt. Egan's post. He had hardly disappeared from view
before hundreds of whooping Indians came dashing over
the crest of the hill, soon surrounding the corral at long
range. After wildly circling around the train two or three
times, after the manner of Indians, they opened a deadly fire
against the barricade of loaded wagons, from behind which
the boys hurled back cold lead at the red besiegers, as
rapidly as they could load and reload their guns. At the
end of three terrible hours, the Indians suddenly ceased
firing, and disappeared in a twinkling, almost as quickly as
if the earth had opened beneath their feet and swallowed
them. With marvelous swiftness they sped away over the
hills out of sight. With the wonderful keenness, peculiar
to these children of nature, they had in the heat of conflict
seen or scented approaching danger. Just at the moment
of their disappearance Capt. Egan and his troopers were
seen riding with the speed of the wind towards the camp,
their beautiful white horses panting, with nostrils dis-
tended, and flecked with foam. They had ridden hard
to the rescue of the imperiled train. In scouting for In-
dians Capt. Egan's pack mules had got mired, obliging him
to return to his post, where he arrived just as the messen-
ger boy put in an appearance, so that no time was lost in
going to the relief of the train, and moreover, if the
wagon axle had not broken, necessitating a halt for repairs,
the train would doubtless have marched right into the
deadly embrace of hundreds of hostile Sioux, and have
been nearly if not totally wiped out of existence; — thus
it would seem that those two mishaps had worked to-
gether for the safety of that train. A fatalist would say,
248
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
that an overruling Providence had interfered to save that
brave band of pioneers from utter annihilation.
The following morning, the train once more started for
the Hills, this time under military escort, Capt. Egan hav-
ing consented to accompany the party to Custer, which was
finally reached without farther trouble.
On nearing Custer the train was met by nearly the entire
male population of the city, on their way out to the relief
of the beleagured freight outfit, rumors of the dangers
that had hedged it about having reached the city, whose
supplies, by the way, had gotten to low-water mark.
As the story goes, there was a big pow-wow and dance
in the pioneer city that night, in celebration of the narrow
escape of the 185 gold-seekers, where " all went merry as
a marriage bell."
Tradition says that after the ball was over, there was a
sort of spectacular performance, in which Doc Peirce, ably
supported by Capt. Gardner and Tom Hooper, — the
pioneer legal light of the Black Hills — enacted the leading-
role. Numerous others were in the cast, but taking minor
parts. It is said " there was a hot time in the old town
that nisht."
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 249'
CHAPTER XIX.
MONTANA EXPEDITIONS.
The great gold-producing State of Montana yielded a gen-
erous tribute to the large stream of gold-seekers entering the
Black Hills in 1876, furnishing no insignificant proportion
of their total population. It has been estimated that nearly
one-twelfth of the population of the Black Hills in 1876
came from that State, which is believed to be an overesti-
mate. Howbeit, it was notable that a liberal percentage of
those engaged in placer mining operations, on Deadwood
and tributary gulches during that year, were old Montana
miners.
The most formidable expedition, perhaps, in point of
numbers and the magnitude of its equipments, coming to
the Black Hills in 1876, was organized in Montana.
In February, 1876, a movement was inaugurated in
Helena, Montana, having for its object the organization of
the first expedition from that State to the Black Hills.
Notices of the contemplated expedition were published in
the press, and also posted in the various mining camps
throughout the State, inviting all who desired to join such
an enterprise to rendezvous at a designated point on the
Yellowstone, by a stated time, for organization. For a few
weeks thereafter, all trails led the Black Hills fever-infected
Montanians to the recruiting point on the Yellowstone,
whither the leaders had preceded them for the purpose of
enrolling members. An organization was soon effected,
when, on the 20th day of March, 1876, the expedition of
100 pack mules, a long train of supply wagons, and a party
of over 200 men, having in its ranks experienced miners,
thrifty ranchmen, and skilled mechanics, each animated by
the ambition and determination to become speedily rich, if
250 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
riches were to be found in the new gold region, marched
away from the banks of the Yellowstone on the old Boze-
man route for the Bhick Hills.
As they marched along the old trail they passed over the
historic spot where nearly ten years before the tragedy of
Fort Phil Kearney was enacted, when a wood train with a
small military escort was surrounded and attacked by 2,000
Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapaho Indians almost within sight
of the fort. When first attacked Col. Fetterman, com-
mander at the fort, in answer to a signal from a neighbor-
ing hill, hastened to the rescue of the train with a force of
nearly 100 soldiers, including officers, every one of whom
after a hard gallant struggle lasting two hours was lying
dead on the battle-ground, — not a white man was left to
rehearse the awful story. The wrecked wagons of the de-
molished wood train were yet lying in a confused heap at
the foot of a hill near the trail.
The expedition continued its course across the dry fork
of the Powder river, to the Belle Fourche, and down that
stream to Bear Lodge, thence across the country to Spear-
fish valley, which was reached May 20th, 1876. The ex-
pedition had two encounters with the Indians in the Bear
Lodge mountains, in one of which a member of the party
named Geo. Miller was killed.
Among the members of this expedition were R. H. Evans,
G. H. Jones, Jas. Ryan, G. W. Read, F. R. Cooper, G.
W. Rosenbaum, J. E. Cook, Mike Burton, Hiram Ross,
and J. A. Walton, nearly all of whom settled along the
broad fertile valley of the Spearfish, where for two score
years they have demonstrated the wonderful agricultural
possibilities of the valleys of the Black Hills. Any one
traveling down the valley of the Spearfish of an early
summer's day will now be confronted, every mile of the
way, by a scene fair indeed to look upon. Richly culti-
vated farms — they cannot now be called ranches — for the
most part divided and fenced into fields of more or less
acreage, according to convenience or the adaptability of
LAST HUNTING GUOUND OV THE DAKOTAHS. 251
the soil for certain crops, some of them covered with wav-
ing grain, fast ripening for the sickle, with here and there
large patches of the tubers, such as can be grown nowhere
in the world outside of the Black Hills ; others covered
with rich pasturage, dotted over with fat, sleek kine, com-
modious farm houses, delightfully embowered amid shade
trees, many of them planted by the hands of the owners
years before; with luxuriant vegetable gardens in the
background, — will be found all along the margin of the
river from the Queen City to where Spearfish mingles its
■crystal waters with the red soil stained waters of the Red-
water, altogether making a picture of thrift, cosy comfort,
and pastoral beauty that is deliciously refreshing, especi-
ally to a denizen of the mountains.
On the 26th of May, 1876, this enterprising colony of
Montanians took the first step towards reclaiming the vir-
gin soil of the Spearfish valley from the hands of its savage
claimants by locating and staking ranches. Commencing
at a point a little more than a mile below the site of Spear-
fish, locations were made for several miles down the
stream, when they were numbered and drawn by lot.
Ranch No. 1 fell to the lot of R. H. Evans, which he still
owns, and where he still lives. On this ranch Mr. Evans
built the first log cabin of the colony, where he spent
his two years of bachelorhood in the Black Hills, and
it was to that log cabin of one room that, in 1878, he
brought his bride, a Miss Pettigrew, and the first school-
ma'am of Spearfish, where they lived until an increasing
family warned them to provide more spacious quarters.
The cabin is still suffered to stand near its present com-
modious home, within which stands the first stool made in
the valley — valued relics of early days. Let the old log
cabin stand. Bolster it up and guard it well. Let no
desecrating hand touch a single log or chink or a pole of
the roof that sheltered an early pioneer. Let no jack-
knife fiend whittle a single chip from the old three-legged
stool that served him as a chair. At about the same
252 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
date Joseph Rarasdell located a ranch a little farther up
the valley, a part of which is now Rarasdell's addition to
Spearfish. Somewhat later, Otto Uhlig from Deadwood,.
located the ranch that is now, in whole or in part, Uhlig's
addition to the city of many additions. J. E. Cook and
Mike Burton located ranches on what is known as Centen-
nial prairie, where they soon established the " Montana
herd," and built a stockade for the safe keeping of the
large amount of stock committed to their charge, — a pre-
caution which, despite the unremitting vigilance and
bravery of the proprietors, did not always prove a certain
safeguard against the red horse-thieves, as will be shown
farther on.
About a month later, a second, but somewhat smaller
expedition arrived in the Hills over the same route, from
Montana.
About the first of August, 1870, another expedition,,
composed in part of Western men, and in part of tender-
feet from different sections of the East, reached the Black
Hills from Bismarck. Among those comprising the West-
ern contingent of the expedition, were Sol. Star, Seth
Bullock, and John Manning, men to whom the exciting
shifting scenes of a big mining camp were no novelty,
they having already passed through the trying tenderfoot
stage of Western life among the booming mining camps of
Montana. They had, it is presumed, a few years before,
foresworn the luxuries and comforts, and thrown aside the
conventionalities, of Eastern civilization, and followed the
guiding Star of Empire westward until it stood over the
buried treasure among the spurs of the Big Horn Moun-
tains, where they had, doubtless, experienced some of the
vicissitudes and encountered some of the dangers incident
to a frontier life, and had become what is termed Western-
ized, in all that the term implies. Well, let us see. From
the standpoint of a Western pioneer they must needs have
subsisted for several consecutive weeks on bacon, beans,
flapjacks, and black coffee, and slept at least a month on
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 253
the ground floor of a tent. They must necessarily have
chased, or have been chased by, Indians a few times, and
have been " held up" by road agents a time or two, to
entitle them to their credentials from the tenderfoot grade
of Western life.
However, having spent some time amid the fascinating
excitement of a gold-mining camp, they were unable to
withstand the alluring reports from the newly-discovered
placer mines of Dakota, and so resolved to go to Dead-
wood, the pole-star of attraction in 1876. An arrange-
ment of their affairs being completed, they with a party
of thirty-five men, left Helena, Montana, for Fort Benton,
the head of navigation on the Missouri river, where they
loaded their merchandise, supplies, and other equipments
on to a steamer, took passage, and sailed down the river
to Fort Lincoln. On reaching Bismarck they joined a
large party of gold-seeking adventurers from the East ;
secured transportation on a freight train about to leave for
the Hills, and took up their line of march overland for the
Black Hills.
Belonging to the party from the East were J. K. P.
Miller, Jas. McPherson, and Al. Burnham, names familiar
in the business circles of Deadwood for many years. The
two first-named gentlemen could not be termed tenderfeet,
as they had spent considerable time in different parts of
the West. Al. Burnham, on the contrary, was a self-con-
fessed, unfledged tenderfoot, having never before been
west of the Father of Waters. However, he was one day
siezed by a spirit of adventure, and, being full of daring,
he resolved to cut loose from the trammels and narrow
environments of the matured East, and enjoy for a time
the freedom and breadth of the vague indefinite West, with
its dream of grand possibilities.
With this object in view, one bright morning in the
early spring of 1876 he, with grip-sack in hand, left his
Eastern home in Michigan on his journey to the region of
his dreams, the mountains of the boundless West. At
254 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Yankton, after a tedious delay of a whole month, awaiting
the clearing of the channel of the stream from ice, he
boarded a boat and sailed up the river to Fort Buford; but
went no farther in the direction of the setting sun.
Whether the Far West had lost its glamor, or the hostile
attitude of the Sioux had caused him to cut short his jour-
ney in that direction, or whether he had lost his reckon-
ings, is not known. At any rate for some occult reason, he
changed his mind and took passage on the next boat down
the river for Bismarck.
It would appear that Mr. Burnham had a pretty hard
experience on his overland trip to the Black Hills. He
not only had to pay a good round price for the transporta-
tion of his belongings, but had also to work his passage all
the way from Bismarck to Deadwood by whacking oxen for
the transportation trains. It is told that the master of that
outfit, in addition to freight charges, at first demanded ten
dollars per capita for the privilege of walking along beside
the train, — that, however, may be an exaggerated story»
It is inferred that complete harmony and the utmost
brotherly love were not distinguishing features of the over-
land journey of that expedition to the Hills — that is, all
did not pull in the same harness, apparently.
On the last day of July, John Manning and a few others
of the party arrived in Deadwood, having pulled out from
the train at some point on the latter part of the route.
On the first day of August, 1876, Sol. Star, Seth Bul-
lock, James McPherson, J. K. P. Miller, and Al. Burnham,
reached Deadwood just in time to see demonstrated the
kind of material Deadwood was in part composed of in
1876. The next day W^ild Bill was assassinated in broad
daylight.
Continuing the business copartnership entered into
before leaving Helena, Montana, Star & Bullock imme-
diately secured a desirable business lot on the corner of
Main and Wall streets, by the payment of $1,100 00 pur-
chase money and proceeded at once to prepare the ground
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 255
for building. A commodious building was soon erected on
the site, in which the company, with the keen foresight of
shrewd business men, established the hardware business
along its various lines and on a scale commensurate
with the demands of a large and growing mining commu-
nity. The business was carried on in this building until
the property was destroyed by the great fire which swept
away almost the entire business portion of the young city
in 1879. Nothing daunted by their disastrous loss the
company soon rebuilt a larger and more commodious
structure upon the a^hes of the old, with the addition of
a large fire-proof building of brick, and re-established the
business along the same lines, but on a more extended scale
than before, where it was continued until removed in 1895
to give place to the handsome stone structure, the Bullock
Hotel, now occupying the site. The business was then
removed to the building next door west of the Bullock
Hotel, where it is still carried on by the later members of
the firm. For many years the company of Star & Bullock
has stood high in point of reliability and business integrity
among the leading business firms of Deadwood, where, as
individual members of society, they have ever been wide
awake to all that pertained to the advancement and pros-
perity of their adopted city. Individually they have been
honored with various positions of trust and responsibility
in municipal and county affairs, during their long continu-
ous residence in the Hills.
Mr. Star has the honor of having been chosen as member
of the council of the first city organization of Deadwood in
the fall of 1876. On May 24th, 1879, he was appointed
postmaster of the Deadwood Post Otfice by President R.
B. Hayes. In 1884 he was elected to the mayoralty of the
municipality of Deadwood, and re-elected for every suc-
cessive term thereafter until 1892 inclusive, and was a^ain
re-elected in 1896 for a terra of two years, and is therefore
now at the head of Greater Dead wood's city government.
Mr. Star's long, almost uninterrupted service in the inter-
256 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ests of Deadwood, tells more eloquently than can mere
words of his executive ability; his skillful management of
intricate municipal affiiirs; his exceeding popularity, and
above all his loyalty and devotion to the best interests of
the city at the head of whose government he now stands.
Mr. Bullock enjoys the distinction of having been Law-
rence County's first sheriff. He was appointed by Gov.
Pennington to the shrievalty of the newly organized county
and assumed its duties at a critical period in the history of
the great mining region of Deadwood, where, for the
major part, centered the population of Lawrence County in
1877. It was at a time when valuable mining and other
property was frequently in dispute, and whose rightful
owners were sometimes dispossessed and kept at bay at
the muzzle of a shot-o;un or six-shooter: at a time when all
kinds of lawlessness, horse-stealing, cattle-rustling, etc.,
were rampant in the valley north of the Hills, and hydra-
headed immorality was in full swing in the highways and
by-ways of Deadwood ; when desperadoes and crooks galore
were prowling about the streets in sheep's clothing, seeking
whom they might devour. Deadwood albeit was no worse
than all other large new mining camps where outlaws are
wont to congregate.
The time had now arrived when law and order must be
evolved out of all this seething chaos of iniquity. It was a
pretty difficult as well as perilous problem that the first
sheriff of Lawrence County was called upon to grapple
with. However, Mr. Bullock was well equipped by
experience for the work required of him, he having served
in the same capacity out among the mining camps of
Montana, and was possessed of the nerve and courage to
perform his sworn duty ; no connivance at wrong-doing, or
collusion with wrong-doers, can be laid at his door. He
would ferret out and follow the trail of a criminal with all
the keenness of a sleuth on the track of a deer, but, when
once in his custody, he was equally ready to uphold the
law, in protecting his prisoner against a clamorous mob,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAHS.
257
17
258 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
seeking to mete out summary punishment to the law-
breaker. It is the universal verdict of the early settlers
that to Sheriff Bullock was largely due the comparative
peace and security prevailing in the county during the term
of his appointment.
John Manning, who succeeded Mr. Bullock as sheriff of
Lawrence County, was elected by the popular vote of the
county at the election of November, 1877, for a term of
one year, and was re-elected to the position in November,
1878, for a term of two years. The conditions confront-
ing Sheriff Manning were similar to those existing during
the incumbency of his predecessor. Lawlessness had not
ceased to exist, far from it, consequently the duties of
sheriff of Lawrence County in 1878 were by no means a
sinecure. Arrests requiring plenty of pluck and nerve,
and sometimes involving great personal hazard, were of
almost daily occurrence, in the execution of which duties
Sheriff Manning was never known to show the " white
feather."
The extensive litigation, following the establishment of
regular courts in the Hills, largely increased the volume of
sheriff's business along the line of process serving, during
Mr. Manning's terms of office, making the position one
much sought after, because of the rapidly accumulating
fees. That Sheriff Manning performed the various ardu-
ous duties of his office to the entire satisfaction of the
majority of the electors of Lawrence County, is fully
attested by his re-election for a second term of two years.
J. K. P. Miller and James McPherson will be remem-
bered as two of Deadwood's most prominent business men,
for many years. Soon after their arrival in Deadwood,
they established jointly the largest wholesale and retail
grocery house then in the Black Hills, whose business ex-
tended far beyond the locality of the city and the adjacent
mining camps, into the remote towns of the Hills. In
connection with this business they opened, late in the fall
of 1876, the second banking house established in the Black
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 259
Hills under the firm name of Miller & McPberson. The
firm stood high in the commercial circles of Deadwood and
were regarded individually as two of its foremost and most
valued citizens. Mr. Miller was the head and front of the
enterprise for building the little stretch of steam railway,
now running hourly between Deadwood and Lead. He
carried on a flourishing trade for many years, or until
broken health compelled him to throw off the burden and
responsibilities of active business life, and seek rest and
possible restoration to health in other climes. Finally,
however, death claimed him for its own.
Al. Burnham, although coming to the Hills a tenderfoot,
certainly possessed none of the average tenderfoot's fatuity
in expecting to find a royal road to wealth by picking up
golden nuggets along his pathway in the Black Hills. Pre-
eminently self-reliant and practical, he at once took up the
pursuit of professional architect and builder, thus compel-
ling brawn and brain to solve the problem. Doubtless
many of the finest structures which grace the streets of
Deadwood to-day were planned and fashioned by his skill-
ful hands. During his twenty-one years of residence in
the Hills, Mr. Burnham has been an esteemed and loyal
citizen of Deadwood.
THE CENTENNIAL PARTY.
The party bearing the above distinguishing title was
organized, for the purpose of exploring the gold fields of
Dakota, at Ames, Iowa, in January, 1876. The organiza-
tion, consisting of only fourteen members, comprised the
following names: John Johnston, Hugh Johnston, G. W.
Rogers, agent Chicago & N. W. Railway, B. A. Little,
R. H. Miller, A. Olson, J. M. Moulton, E. P. Cronen, W.
U. Tel. Co., W. H. LaRue, N. Nickson, Lafayette Evans,
T. Kinney, W. A. Noland, and a Mr. Otto. Nearly all were
residents of Ames and vicinity, none others being eligible
to membership according to the regulations. Of the
hundreds of applicants for membership from other parts of
260 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
the State, Dr. Overman alone was permitted to sign his
name to the roster of the party. By a suspension of the
rules, against the admission of strangers into the organi-
zation, Dr. Overman was taken into the exclusive circle on
the score of former friendship. However, the doctor
failed to complete his arrangements in time and thus did
not reach the Black Hills until three months later. John
Johnston, the leading spirit of the enterprise, was dis-
patched to Chicago for supplies and equipments for the
party; preliminary preparations were soon made, and on
the 1st day of March, 1876, the Centennial Party of four-
teen men, with two loaded wagons, left their comfortable
homes, in the midst of a wild March storm that reached
almost the magnitude of a blizzard, and marched away
westward through Sioux City and over the old Elkhoru
route for the Black Hills, under the captaincy of John
Johnston.
Nothing notable occurred on the journey until reaching
O'Neill, the last settlement on the route, where they decided
to rest for a day, one of the party being sick. While in
camp at O'Neill, a buckskin-clad scout rode into camp with
a message from another party of gold adventurers, asking
them to delay their journey a day longer, or until the other
party could overtake and join them, which was ngreed to.
" Buckskin," as he was ever after called, went back with the
message, and on the following day a well-armed and
equipped party of eighty-one men and seventeen teams
joined them. Jack Daly, for many years a resident of Lead,
was one of the new part3^ " Buckskin " attached himself
to, and was afterwards considered one of, the Centennial
Party. On the arrival of the party in Custer little was to
be found of an encouraging character; scores of empty
houses, a few men scattered along French creek prospect-
ing, and a good many other men doing nothing, was by no
means inspiring to the members of this little party, who
were mostly tenderfeet, and a feeling of bitter disappoint-
ment began to creep over them ; in short they began to
LAST HUNTING GROUM) OF THE DAKOTAHS. 261
wish themselves back in their comfoitable positions in
Araes, Iowa. The sick member of the party was sent back
by a returning freight train, and the thirteen left Custer
for Hill City, where they found just five men and some
more empty houses, which decided them to go no further,
as they had already seen enough of the Black Hills to
satisfy them that they were by no means what they were
reputed to be. A vote was taken on the question of re-
turning to the States, which resulted in twelve to one in
favor of going back, the dissenting vote being that of John
Johnston, whose wishes in the matter could not be alto-
gether ignored, as he was the largest stockholder in the
property of the outfit. After discussing the question into
the " wee-sma' " hours of the morning, Mr. Johnston
finally agreed to let the twelve take one of the wagons and
enough provisions to last them out, and he would take the
other wagon and the remainder of the supplies, and con-
tinue his journey to the north of the Hills. However,
when the division of the property commenced, five of the
twelve changed their minds, and joined Mr. Johnston on
his trip to the north, the other seven returning to the
States.
Of course there is perhaps nothing remarkable, or even
unusual, in all of this. It is notable, however, that this
Centennial Party gave its name to that large stretch of
country around the headwaters of False Bottom creek,
known as Centennial Praiiie. " Buckskin " and others
while out on the prairie cutting hay, one day in eTuly, 1876,
christened it " Centennial Prairie," in compliment to the
Centennial Party, a name which has clung to it ever
since, and will continue to cling to it for a long time
to come. To a member of the Centennial Party, John
Johnston, also belongs the distinction of having:: estab-
lished in connection with Capt. Gardner, the first news-
paper published in Spearfish City, compelling its success
under conditions which would make the average journalist
hesitate. It is notable too that a member of this Centennial
262 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Party (Mr. Johnston) was among the first to settle at the
head of the Spearfish valley in 1876, and who, ever since
the founding of the Queen City of the Hills, has been
intimately identified with every movement looking to its
growth and prosperity. Mr. Johnston has also been a real
force in the promotion of numerous mining enterprises,
having spent time and money with a lavish hand in the
development of various raining properties throughout the
northern Hills during the past twenty years.
OUTWARD BOUND PILGRIMS.
While this continuous stream of emisjration was making
its way over the hostile plains from the North, South, East,
and West, in the spring of 1876, many of those who had
entered during the previous fall and winter, finding them-
selves stranded in Custer in the spring without a dollar in
their pockets, and no faith in the country, and their little
stock of " grub " which they had been economically eking
out through the winter diminished to nearly the last pot of
beans and the last slice of bacon, disappointed, disheartened
and disgusted, went .out of the Hills any way to get out,
figuratively shaking the dust of the Black Hills off their
feet (not gold dust) in testimony against them, and many
of them hurling back bitter anathemas as they went.
Tenderfeet they were, for the most part, who, lured by
the golden reports and buoyed with hope, had left com-
fortable homes, innocently believing that the coveted
treasure was to be picked up along the wayside by the
handfuls. Failing to realize their expectations they de-
nounced the glowing reports sent out broadcast over the
land as a delusion and a snare. Ah, the poor fellows had
yet to learn a lesson — the lesson which teaches that it is
only by months, yea, sometimes years, of hard, unceasing
toil, under crushing discouragements and disappointments,
that even the few of those who dig for gold realize their
dreams. Yes, those outward-bound pilgrims were mostly
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
263
tenderfeet, and as many of them with badly worn shoes,
some nearly barefoot, had to walk out, it is easy to believe
that their feet were painfully tender ere reaching their
homes ; that some of them never reached their destination
is well known.
264 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER OF FIRST EVENTS.
The first town-site laid out and platted in the Black Hills
was Harney City. The site for the prospective Harney
City — the city of such wonderful future possibilities ( ?) —
was regularly surveyed and platted in March, 1875, in the
valley of French creek, near the stockade.
The work of laying out the site into streets and blocks
was done by Lyman Lamb, Thos. H. Russell, and other
members of the partes it being accomplished by the use of
a small pocket compass and a picket rope. Harney City,
however, was but a dream of its founders, as it never ma-
terialized beyond a few foundations on the most desirable
corner lots.
The first miners' meeting ever held in the Black Hills,
met on French creek, a short distance above the present
site of Custer City, on or about the 17th day of June,
1875. There were sixteen persons present at the meeting,
among whom were A. D. Trask, now of Pactola, Joseph
Reynolds, and Jas. Corneile. A mining district was organ-
ized, of which A. D. Trask was chosen recorder.
Custer is entitled to the distinction of being the first
town built in the Black. Hills. It was laid out and platted
on the lOlh of August, 1875; the work of surveying being
done by Thos. Hooper, aided by a detachment of United
States soldiers of Major Pollock's command, the inevitable
pocket compass and picket rope being used for the pur-
pose. The first plat of the pioneer city was made by
Thos. Hooper on a piece of birch bark 12x12 inches square,
as before stated.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 265
The first ton of gold-beariog quartz taken out of the Black
Hills for treatment, was mined and transported to Chey-
enne, Wyoming, by Joseph Reynolds, in August, 1875.
The ore was mined from a ledge about three and one-half
miles above Custer City. It was freighted out to Chey-
enne where it was sampled and shipped to Georgetown,
Colorado, for treatment; the test from best samples re-
sulting in seventeen dollars in gold per ton of quartz.
The first buildingr erected in the Black Hills — barring
the seven log cabins within the walls- of the stockade —
was put in course of construction by Dr. D. M. Flick.
The building was a substantial hewn-log structure, designed
as a home for his family whenever the way was made clear.
When this pioneer building neared completion the doctor
consented to leave the Hills with the exodus of miners, in
obedience to the order of Gen. Crook in August of that year.
Soon thereafter the building was completed by Capt^
Pollock and occupied by him as military headquarters dur-
ing the remainder of his stay in the Hills.
After the withdrawal of the military forces from the
Hills, Capt. Jack Crawford, the poet-scout, took possession
of and occupied the building undisturbed until one bright
morning, about the middle of April, 1876, when Dr. Flick
drove up to the door of his residence with his family and
household goods, to find it appropriated by somebody who
was absent at the time — the doctor didn't know, and didn't
care a continental who. In nowise daunted by the unfavor-
able aspect of the situation, he unloaded his goods, took
formal possession of the building, and awaited develop-
ments. It is needless to say that the doctor made himself
quite generally at home, Mrs. Flick meanwhile making
active preparations for dinner.
Just as the family was seated at the table enjoying their
noonday meal under their own vine and fig tree, Capt. Jack,
with his friend, Attorney T. Harvey, appeared at the door
and entered unbidden — doubtless greatly surprised to find
266 THE BLACK, HILLS: OR,
what he regarded as a base usurper comfortably domiciled
ia his snug quarters. The captaiu, of course, demanded
an explanation, as well as an unconditional surrender of the
premises, and asked, sternly: " Sir, by what right, and by
whose authority are you here?" The doctor replied, de-
fiantly : " By right of ownership, and by ray own author-
ity, sir. I need none other. That is good enough for me."
Capt. Jack, naturally feeling that his most sacred rights
had been ruthlessly invaded, ordered the doctor to
"vamoose the ranch" instanter and take all his belong-
ings with him, or take the consequences. Whereupon the
doctor, fully conscious of the righteousness of his position,
quickly reached for his trusty Sharp's rifle, which stood
conveniently at hand, swiftly leveled it at the " poet-
scout," and indicating the door, told him to go. The
captain, though brave and fearless, having faced many
deadly perils in his lifetime, deeming " discretion the bet-
ter part of valor," wisely withdrew, to appear again in
another attitude.
These conflicting claims resulted in the
SECOND SUIT IN EQUITY IN THE BLACK HILLS.
Attorney Tom Harvey, in behalf of his client, Capt. Jack
Crawford, at once brought action against D. W. Flick for
forcible entry and detainer (probably), and in due lapse of
time the case was called up for hearing before Provisional-
Justice Keifer, and a jury of five miners, good and true.
Upon the hearing of the evidence pro and con, Attorney
Harvey, in closing for the prosecution, briefly summed his
case, in clear, forcible, and convincing language — basing
his arguments, we may presume, upon two important
points. First, that inasmuch as every square foot of terri-
tory, as well as every stick of timber, cut from the trees
growing in the valley, or along the mountain slopes of the
Black Hills, belonged by virtue of a solemn treaty to the
Indians, no title was or could be vested in the defendant.
Second, that the building, as proven by competent wit-
DR. D. W. FLICK,
The builder of the first cabin erected in the Blaclj Hills in 1875.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 267
nesses, had been abandoned by the defendant, and was at
the time of forcible entry in the rightful and peaceable
possession of his client, therefore, in the absence of title,
and by virtue of such possession which — he reminded the
jury — was, in all civilized communities, considered nine
points of the law, but in the Black Hills was at least ten
points, or the whole law, he asked that a verdict be ren-
dered in favor of his client, Capt. Jack Crawford, placing
him in repossession of the disputed premises. Here the
prosecution rested.
In answer, the defendant in his own behalf, rising to the
full necessity of the occasion, said, with cutting sarcasm,
that he was as fully cognizant of the impossibility of
acquiring valid title to property in the Black Hills, as the
distinguished counsel for the prosecution, and therefore
admitted that point, and did not deny the claim to posses-
sion, but that he claimed a title far beyond and above all
civil law — an equitable claim, under which every man on
God's footstool has the divine right to reap the fruits of
his own honest labor.
The doctor waxed eloquent. He told the jury in telling
words, and beautifully rounded periods, of how he had
procured the timber from the virgin forests that adorned
the hillsides hard by, and had them hauled to the ground
selected for a home for his family, where they were hewn,
fashioned and fitted in their respective places in the
structure — all of which was paid for — in part by the
sweat of his own brow, but mostly in the true " coin of the
realm" — good lawful money of Uncle Sam. He told
also, of how, when the fabric was on the verge of comple-
tion, he went out of the Hills — like a true patriot, under
military escort, with the full determination of returning at
the first favorable opportunity. In his closing peroration,
it is easy to imagine that the doctor told the jury that he
proposed to defend his rights at all times, and would allow
no long-haired, buckskin-clad scout — poet though he be —
or any other man, to defraud him thereof.
268 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
It is needless to state that the jury of honest miners,
who are ever on the side of justice and right, rendered a
verdict for the defendant, D. W. Flicii. Thus ended the
second h\wsuit (suit in common law) ever tried in the
Black Hills.
We are here reminded of a number of similar disputes
over property in the Black Hills, which, had they been
submitted to the arbitration of a few disinterested parties,
would not have resulted, as was sometimes the case, in
bloodshed and even death.
FIRST PERSON KILLED IN THE BLACK HILLS.
The first person killed in the Black Hills after their inva-
sion by the first expedition was, probably, a man named
Kiese, in July, 1875. The -particulars of the affair, as far
as can be ascertained, are, substantially, as follows : Some
time in July, 1875, a party of about forty men, including
J. J. Williams, a member of the Collins and Russell ex-
pedition, was encamped near the Jenny stockade. While
in camp, Kiese and a man named Jackson left the camp to-
gether for French creek. After a short absence Jackson
returned alone, claiming that they had been attacked by a
band of Indians, when a few miles out from camp, and
Kiese killed as well as the mule he rode. The story
not seeming altogether probable, was not believed by many
of the party. Jackson soon after disappeared from camp
and was no more seen or heard from. A month later, per-
haps, the body of Kiese was found covered with brush, in
a ravine, not far from the Jenny stockade and Jackson
was strongly suspected of having killed him for a consid-
erable sum of money that he was known to have had in his
possession. Be that as it may, he was certainly killed and
his body found.
The first hotel in the Black Hills was built in Custer in
February, 1876, by a man named Druggeman. The same
man also purchased the first town lot ever sold in the Black
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TFIK DAKOTAHS. 269
Hills, the purchase being made of one Jacobs in February,
187(3.
The first saw mill in the Black Hills was brought to
Custer and operated l)y J. F. Murphy in February, 1876.
In February, 1876, the first store of general merchandise
in the Black Hills, located in Custer on the south side of
Custer avenue, between 5th and 6th streets, was opened and
kept by Jas. Roberts, who, it is said, died in Deadwood
about the year 1890.
The first white child born in the Black Hills was Alvena,
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Chas. Sasse, now of Deadwood.
Little Alvena first opened her wondering, though unap-
preciative eyes, on the marvelous beauty of Custer Park,
and expanded her small lungs with the pure bracing air,
laden with the grateful aroma of the pines that clothe the
rugged slopes, surrounding the park in which nestles the
city of her birth, on the 11th of May, 1876. Her life,
however, was but a brief span, she was hiter taken to
Deadwood, where, in the following November, she died.
Alvena, the pioneer baby of the Black Hills, now lies bur-
ied beneath the reckless tread of many busy feet, some-
where on the old cemetery hill, back of the Fourth Ward
school building of Deadwood.
The first newspaper established in the Black Hills, called
the Black Hills Weekly Pioneer, was published by W. A.
Laugh lin and A. W. Merrick, under the firm name of
Laughlin & Merrick, early in 1876. The proprietors of
this important pioneer enterprise, with a faith and courage
almost sublime, transported from Denver, Colorado, to the
Black Hills, a distance of 400 miles, — in depth of winter,
a fully-equipped printing outfit, consisting of a press, a
complete selection of type, and all the necessary material for
the publication of a daily paper and job office.
The first half sheet of the Black Hills Pioneer was printed
270 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ill Custer in May, 187G, but after one issue, the publishers
reloaded their press and other printing equipments, and
went with the flood-tide to Deadwood, where it was per-
manently established as a weekly publication, — the initial
number, consisting of a half sheet, appearing on June 8th,
1876. The first number, which was run through the press
by Joseph Kubler, now of the Custer Chronicle, was struck
off under inauspicious conditions and circumstances, in-
deed, the work being done in an unfinished cabin, which
afforded but scant protection from the untoward elements.
However, the venture at once proved a great financial suc-
cess,— a veritable bonanza. The paper was in great de-
mand, thousands of copies being sold every week at
twenty-five cents each, many of which found their way to
the outer newspaper world, where excerpts from its columns
were freely copied.
The Black Hills Weekly Pioneer was a wide-awake,
newsy sheet in 1876, and made its influence felt far and
wide. Not only did it contain information of the rich
placer and quartz discoveries and other current news of the
great mining camp, but also discussions of many of the
important public questions of the day, especially those
directly affecting the people of the Black Hills.
It is now recalled that the Indian problem, — in connec-
tion with the United States government, was roundly
abused for its seeming dereliction in duty to the outlawed
people of the Black Hills ; the territorial question, the
question of county organization, — in which the head of
the territorial government of the Dakotas was handled with-
out gloves, for not doing what he really had no power to
do, received special consideration. The people of the
Black Hills believed in the full and unrestrained liberty of
the press in 1876.
The brainy young R. B. Hughes — familiarly called Dick
Hughes, was one of the first compositors on the pioneer
newspapers, and it is alleged that the way he manipulated
the type exceeded all subsequent records in the Black
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 271
Hills. He was also local reporter for the paper, and is said
to be practically the first newspaper reporter in the Black
Hills. From this Mr. Hughes drifted into journalism, and
in 1878 became connected with the Rapid City JournaU as
one of its editorial staff, where he demonstrated that he
was a clear-cut thinker as well as a polished writer. Dick
is now United States Surveyor-General for South Dakota.
Of the brilliant coterie of writers who catered to the
Black Hills reading public in 1876, the large-hearted, open-
handed Capt. C. V. Gardner alone remains in the Black
Hills to-day. Dr. C. W. Myers, Geo. Stokes, Jack
Langrishe, and Jack Crawford (an occasional contributor
to the department of poetry), having years since left the
Hills for other fields. Dr. Myers, a one-time territorial dele-
gate, than whom few wielded a readier pen, is reported dead.
Owing to ill health, W. A. Laughlin soon severed his
connection with the Pioneer, disposing of his interest in
the concern to C. V. Gardner. Mr. Gardner, whose capi-
tal and talents gave additional life to the enterprise, made
his first literary bow to the newspaper readers of the Black
Hills on July 1st, 1876, continuing his connection with the
paper for a period of about six months, when it was left to
the sole management of A. W. Merrick.
From the date of its establishment as a daily paper on
May 15th, 1877, the Pioneer had a wonderfully checkered
history. It had its ins and outs, its fluctuating periods of
prosperity and adversity — like nearly all newspaper enter-
prises, dependent upon a shifting community for their
patronage. Having from that time to share the profits of
the newspaper field with another daily paper, the Dead-
wood Times, the question of dollars and cents resolved
itself into a serious problem, for what with the compe-
tition and the largely-increased expenditures of conducting
a daily paper, it was finally found that in reckoning up the
monthly accounts, pro and con, the balances began to
show — as figures sometimes have the disagreeable habit of
doing, — on the wrong side of the ledger. Competition
272 TUE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
may be the life of trade, but it is financial death to one or
the other, if not both of the competitors, in a newspaper
business in a narrow field.
The management of the Pioneer, during its twenty years
of existence, as a daily paper, changed, financially, editor-
ially or otherwise, as many as fifteen times, as will appear
from the appended record.
In 1877 A. W. Merrick appears to be handling the craft
alone. In 1878 we find R. O. Adams at the helm, the
subsequent changes occurring in the following order: In
1879 Merrick & Adams; in 1880 R. O. Adams; in 1880
R. D, Kelly (two weeks); in 1881 Vanocker & Merrick;
in 1885 Frank Vanocker; in 1882 G. G. Bennett (six
months); in 1883 A. W. Merrick; in 1884 Edwards,
Pinneo Bros. & Merrick; in 1884 Edwards & Pinneo ; in
1885-(3 Bonham, Maskey & Moody; in 1886 \V. H. & F.
M. Bonham; in 188(5-7 Bonham & Kelly; from 1887 to
1897 the Pioneer Publishing Company, under the man-
agement of W, H. Bonham. On December 1st, 1887,
the name Bhick Hills Pioneer, was changed to Dead wood
Pioneer.
On May 15th, 1897, the Deadwood Daily Pioneer and
the Deadwood Daily Times were merged into one daily
paper, under the proprietorship of the Pioneer-Times Pub-
lishing Company, and the editorial and business manage-
ment of Porter Warner, and W. H. Bonham, respectively.
When W. H. Bonham became connected with the man-
agement of the Pioneer in 1885, it was found to be heavily
incumbered with debt, but, although having a cash capital
of only $190 to invest in the concern, he succeeded by wise
economy and skillful business management, in rescuing the
paper from the financial quicksands into which it was rap-
idly sinking, and placing it on solid ground, so that when
it went into the hands of the Pioneer Publislii ng Company,
in 1887, it was practically free from debt.
The foregoing record makes it very plain, so plain that
those who run may read, that A. W. Merrick made a
A. W. MEP.RICK.
Publisher of the first newspaper in the Blacli Hills, established
in Deaclwood, June 8th, 187G.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 273
noble and gallant struggle to prolong the life of the first
newspaper of the Black Hills.
The first daily newspaper published in the Black Hills
was established in Deadwood by Porter Warner in the
early spring of 1876,
Mr. Warner arrived in Deadwood froui Denver, Colo.,
with a complete press, well equipped with the needed fa-
cilities and ample material for the publication of a daily
paper, during the month of March, 1877. He first rented
the upper story of the then newly erected bank building of
Stebbins, Wood & Post, on the northwest corner of Main
and Lee streets, where, on the 7th day of April, 1877, the
first number of the Deadwood Daily Times was issued.
The paper was ably and successfully conducted, under the
sole management and proprietorship of its founder, Porter
Warner, until May 15th, 1897, when it consolidated with the
Deadwood Pioneer, under the title of The Pioneer Times.
The Deadwood Daily Times is also credited with the
distinction of having been the second daily paper published
in Dakota Territory.
The first case ever coming up for adjudication before a
Black Hills tribunal of any kind, was tried by Justice of
the Peace Smith of Custer, in February, 1876. The cause
of action originated in a dispute between Wm. Coad and a
man named Swartout, as to the rightful ownership of a
town lot in Custer City. Thos. H. Harvey appeared for
Swartout and Thos. Hooper for Coad. Thus it will be
seen that Thos. H, Harvey and Thos. Hooper were the first
to practice the profession of law in the Black Hills.
The first authenticated case of murder in the Black Hills
was the killing of Boueyer, a half-breed Sioux, b}' an
all-round desperado named C. C. Clayton, in March, 1876.
When learning of the affair, a large number of the friends
of the murdered man appeared in Custer, to see that even-
handed justice be meted out to the slayer of their red brother.
16
274 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Clayton was promptly arrested and tried by a jury, before
Police Justice Keifer, of Custer, and found guilty of mur-
der in the first degree, with a penalty of death, by hanging,
affixed to the verdict.
When the prisoner was arraigned to receive his sentence,
and just as counsel for the defense was laying down the
law to the judge, on the illegality of such procedure on the
part of a provisional court, a sensational scene occurred in
the court room. A large party of the murderer's sym-
pathizers, armed to the teeth, arrived from Deadwood, and
filed into the little court room, and there stood, grim and
determined, awaiting the decision of the court, prepared
to rescue the prisoner in case his life was placed in jeopardy.
At this juncture Attorney Harvey demanded the release of
the prisoner on the grounds aforementioned, and the
judge, concluding that he had no option in the matter,
turned him over into the hands of the citizens of the town,
who, it is needless to state, escorted him to the limits
thereof and turned him loose, with a solemn warning not to
show himself again within the limits of the Black Hills.
The pioneer banking institution of the Black Hills, —
called the Miner's & Mechanic's Bank, was established in
Deadwood in the summer of 1876, by J. M. Woods, now
of Rapid City. The vault for the safe-keeping of the capi-
tal stock, surplus, deposits, undivided profits, etc., of the
Miner's & Mechanic's Bank consisted of an ordinary iron
safe, which was kept in a frame building, on the east side
of Main street, occupied at the time by the store of Bough-
ton & Berry. The principal transactions of this pioneer
institution consisted in buying and selling gold dust and
shipping same per account of its owners, making collec-
tions, etc. It is believed that J. M. Woods was its presi-
dent, board of directors, and chief stockholder, as well as
its cashier, teller, and clerk. That the enterprising firm
coined money during those palmy days, when gold dust
was lavishly squandered, goes without saying.
rORTEU WARNEU,
Publisher of the first daily newspaper in the Black Hills,
established April 7th, 1877.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 275
J. M. Woods also opened the first harness and saddlery
shop in the Black Hills, during the same summer, on the
east side of Main street below Wall street.
The first religious service ever held in the Black Hills
was conducted in Custer by Rev. H. W. Smith, the mar-
tyred Black Hills missionary, on May 7th, 1876. This
first service was held in a small log cabin without fioor,
on Custei' avenue, owned by Joseph T. Reynolds, and at
the time occupied by Mr. Clippinger. After a short stay
in Custer, Rev. Smith, feeling that duty called him to a
broader field for Christian effort, left the comparatively
moral atmosphere of the pioneer city for Deadwood, where
he arrived on or about the 25th of May, 1876, when he at
once began to do battle for the right. He opened and
conducted a series of outdoor eveninij meetinss in Dead-
wood, on the corner of Main and Gold streets — using a
dry-goods, or some other kind of a box, for a platform, and
succeeded, by his intense earnestness and sincerity, in
nightly drawing around him large numbers of the crowds
of miners, fighters, and tenderfeet, who jostled along the
narrow street seeking diversion, despite the many counter-
attractions on every hand. It is a notable fact — and to
their everlasting credit be it chronicled — that none of the
motley crowd, gathered around to listen to his earnest
teachings, ever attempted, as far as known, to annoy or
disturb him in his work. His labors were not confined to
Deadwood alone; he sometimes appointed meetings at dis-
tant mining camps, and it was in the fulfillment of one of
these engagements that he met his death.
On the 20th day of August, 1876, a day that will long
linger in the memories of the then residents of Deadwood,
Rev. Smith — notwithstanding he had been warned of the
extreme danger of the trip — with his Bible and prayer-
book, his only safeguards, under his arm, started confi-
dently away over the old mountain trail between Deadwood
and Centennial for Crook City, where he had engaged
276 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
to hold service, but when near a point on the trail, known by
old-timers as the **Rest" he was shot to death in his tracks,,
by one of the Indian stampeders of the " Montana Herd."
Two hunters, who were at the time engaged in skinning
a deer near the spot where Smith was killed, hearing a
horseman approaching, discovered from their concealed
position that the rider was an Indian. Whereupon, one of
the hunters, Dan Van Luvin, believing it to be his duty to
shoot atanj'thing that looked like an Indian, quickly leveled
his gun and fired, killing the horse and badly wounding the
Indian. The two hunters then tied precipitately to Dead-
wood, collected a party and returned to the scene of the
shooting where they fully expected to find a dead Indian.
The Indian on the contrary was not dead but sufficiently
alive to fire a shot into the party killing one of the men,,
but before he could reload his gun, he was riddled by a
volley of bullets. Lo, the poor Indian, was game to the
last, it being found that Van Luvin's shot had broken both
of his legs and one of his arms.
Rev. Smith was found lying where he fell, with arms
folded across his breast, his Bible and prayer-book resting
on his bosom. He was not scalped or otherwise mutilated :
per<;hance the savages surmised and respected his calling.
He died in the harness, doing his Master's work.
His grave, in the cemetery on one of the hills overlooking
Deadwood on the south, is marked by a life-sized figure
standing on a square pedestal which bears the inscription.
It is cut from native red sandstone and was erected in
October, 1891, by his " Black Hills Friends."
The first gold produced from quartz by process of
machinery in the Black Hills, was extracted from ore
mined from the Chief of the Hills, situated about one mile
above the mouth of Black Tail.
In August, 1876, Gardner & Co. and I. Chase pur-
chased from the original locators, California Joe and Jack
Hunter, a one-half interest in the mine and at once
COL JAMES M. WOODS.
i
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 277
commenced the construction of a home-made wooden Arastra
near the mine for crushing the ore. In the clean-up from
the first run made by this crude machine, was found a good-
sized nugget, which, in commercial vaUie, was worth about
115.00. The clean-up was made in early part of September,
1876.
The first plant for the manufacture of the popular bev-
erage (beer) in the Black Hills, was established by L.
S. Parkhurst & Co., temporarily at Custer, afterward
permanently in Deadwood, in June, 1876.
It was in July, 1876, that Jack Langrishe, the idol of
the early Western mining camps, blazed the way and estab-
lished the first theater for the " legitimate " in the Black
Hills. The Langrishe Troupe, which included Mrs. Lan-
grishe and two other ladies, with a wagon load of stage
accessories and an extensive repertory, arrived in Dead-
wood on or about July 10th, 1876, and as there was no
building in the embryo city suitable for the purpose,
immediate steps were taken to provide a place of sufficient
capacity to accommodate the amusement-loving community
of that great mining camp. A large frame theater build-
ing was put in process of construction on the south side of
Main street on the lots now occupied by Max Fischel and
John Herman.
Soon the skeleton structure was inclosed on its four
sides by using part canvas, the supply of lumber not being
equal to the demand ; then covered with a canvas roof and
laid with sawdust floor ; the internal economy was ar-
ranged ; a stage with the necessary entrances and exits
was hastily constructed and finished by a few skillful
sweeps and daubs of the scenic artist's brush ; rows and
rows of rough hard seats, odds and ends of lumber, were
nailed together in the big auditorium, when the pioneer
theater building of the Black Hills was ready for the first
engaofement.
278 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Pending the final touches on the building, the camp was
billed for the first show, and indeed it does not seem
twenty-one years since the log cabins, sprinkled with a few
more pretentious frame business buildings along the nar-
row street of the embryo city, the trees, the huge boul-
ders and the rocky headlands up and down the gulches,
were made radiant by the glaring posters, announcing the
firvSt appearance of the celebrated Langrishe theatrical
troupe in the Black Hills.
The first performance in the new theater building was
given on the night of Saturday, July 22d, 1876, on which
important occasion the house was crowded to the doors,
and doubtless it will be remembered by many that there
came up a heavy sweeping rain during the performance
which, penetrating through the canvas roof, soon came
pouring down in copious streams upon the devoted heads
of the audience and actors alike. Yet despite the damp-
ness of their environments, the enthusiasm of the audience
was not dampened to any great extent, as but few left the
house. Who could forego the delight of seeing the inimi-
table Jack Langrishe in one of his funny roles?
By the waj', Langrishe was held in high estimation by
the pla3^-goers of Deadwood camp, not only for his capa-
bility as an actor, but for his sterling qualities as a man,
by reason of which he usually played to crowded houses,
but it was on Saturday and Sunday nights that the man-
agement scooped in the gold dust.
As an all-round actor Langrishe was considered exceed-
ingly clever, but in the arena of old-style comedy he was
par excellence, and also a perfect master of the art of facial
expression. An occasion is now recalled when his part
required that he fail to grasp a point that was as plain as
noonday to everybody else, and to follow his changing
expression which from that of the densest stupidity gradu-
ally brightened, as the light of comprehension began to
dawn upon his benighted mind, until his broad good-
natured face beamed with the effulgence of supreme intelli-
JACK LAXGIUSHK,
The old time Black Hills comedian.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIR DAKOTAIIS. 279
gence, was truly a rare treat. We do not often see his
equal as a comedian. Mrs. Langrishe too, as leading lady,
was an actress of no small ability, and whether she imper-
sonated an Irish servant girl fresh from the Emerald Isle,
a dude, or a red-headed cowboy, she looked and acted her
part to perfection.
During the following month, the Langrishe audiences
were frequently treated to free shower baths, and usually,
as fate decreed it, at the most absorbing stage of the per-
formances. About the middle of August, a waterproof
roof was substituted for the canvas, in which condition, it
is believed, the building served its purpose until 1878, when
a new and larger theater building was constructed on Sher-
man street, on the lots just south of those now occupied by
the B. & M. Railway Depot. This building was destroyed
by the disastrous fire of 1879, when Deadvvood was nearly
obliterated from the map of the Black Hills.
The first masonic funeral services ever held in the Black
Hills were conducted in the Langrishe theater building on
Main street, in August, 1876, the rites and ceremonies of
the order being performed by Sol. Star. The deceased
was a man who died at the Woods Hotel, Deadwood.
The first duel fought in the Black Hills took place on a
street at Crook City on July 18th, 1875, between Jas.
Shannon and Thos. Moore, resulting in the death of the
former — the challenged party. The occurrence, although
not strictly an aflair of honor, and not conducted altogether
according to the requirements of the code-duello, was
nevertheless a real duel.
' The trouble originated in the saloon of C. D. Johnston*
and was the result of an altercation over some money
matter, the particulars of which are briefly and substan-
tially as follows.
Shannon asked of the proprietor of the saloon a loan of
$50.00 to back his horse on a race that was to come off.
280 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
which was refused. Failing in this he turned and made a
similar request of Moore who also refused the accommoda-
tion, which so aroused his ire that he proceeded to assault
Moore, who, to settle the difficulty, challenged his assailant
to a duel. In the absence of seconds, the principals agreed
to choose their weapons and shoot each other at sight, and
both started for their guns. Moore soon returned but
finding Shannon still unarmed, did not shoot in accordance
with the terms, but requested his antiigonist to go at once
and arm himself. Shannon then went for his gun, and in
about fifteen minutes put in an appearance, when both fired
almost simultaneously. Shannon falling mortally wounded
at the first shot. Moore also fell, perhaps shocked by the
concussion, but was unhurt. The body of the dead duelist
was placed in charge of Dr. R. D. Jennings, now a resident
of Hot Springs, who impaneled a coroner's jury to hold
an inquest, which resulted in a verdict of justifiable homi-
cide. Preceding the burial, Mr. A. S. Garrison went out
a few miles northeast of Crook City and dug a grave, where
Whitewood now stands, but the small funeral procession
refused to go so far, as the Indians were much in evidence
in the locality at the time, so it halted and buried the body
on a hill, about half way between Crook City and White-
wood, where the grave may be seen to-day.
The first quartz mill to reach the Black Hills was brought
in by Capt. C. V. Gardner & Co., during the early fall of
1876. The machinery of this pioneer quartz mill, consist-
ing of what is known as a Blake Crusher and a BalthofF
Ball Pulverizer, was purchased by Capt. Gardner, at Cen-
tral Colorado, and shipped by rail to Cheyenne, Wyoming,
whence it was transported b}' the May & Appel fast freight
line, to its point of destination near Gayville, passing
through Deadwood en route on September 25th, 1876.
The plant was operated on the rich conglomerate ore taken
from the historic Hidden Treasure Mine, on Spring gulch.
Before the close of 1876, about $20,000 in gold was pro-
CAPT. C. V. GARDXEU,
Who brought the first quartz mill to the Bla-ik Hills
on September 25th, 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 281
diiced from the ore, piilverize({ by the tumbling balls in the
■cylinder of the crude little plant. The Hidden Treasure
Mine was discovered and located by Thomas O'Neal on
May 13th, 1876, and later came into the possession of
Gardner & Co. by purchase.
The first stamp mill to make its advent in the Black Hills
was brought in by Milton E. Pinney in the late fall of 1876.
The mill, a ten-battery plant, was purchased by Mr. Pin-
ney at Central Colorado, and shipped b}^ rail to Cheyenne,
and from there transported by Wood Foglesong, under
contract with the purchasers at $12.50 per 100 pounds to
Central, where it was erected on the Alpha and Omega
property located near Central. Upon the arrival of the
mill on the ground, Woolsey, Jones, and Rowland, owners
of the Alpha and Omega mines, convej'ed a half interest in
their mining property to Pinney & Lorton, in considera-
tion of a half interest in the mill, thus giving to each of
the contracting parties an equal proprietary interest in the
mines and mill.
J. M. Brelsford and Aaron Dunn, now of Deadwood, and
W. E. Jones, of Sturgis, assisted in the work of building
the plant, which commenced dropping its ten stamps on
December 30, 1876. This mill was operated, with short
periods of interruption, on ore taken from the Alpha or
Omega Mines, perhaps it will be more correct to say the
Alpha and Omega, until 1885, when the engine and boiler
were removed to Sturgis by W. E. Jones to be utilized in
A saw mill near that place where they are still in occa-
sional use. The worn-out batteries were thrown aside,
having served their day.
The Alpha Mine, a conglomerate crystallized quartz
proposition, was discovered and located by Jas. Wolsey,
a Californian, W. E. Jones, and M. V. Rowland, on May
12th, 1876. A little later the Omega mine was located by
the same parties, in such a way that it overlapped the
richer portion of the Alpha location, at which point of inter-
282 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
section the ore pounded out by the batteries of the first
stamp mill was mined.
The introduction and successful operation of these two
pioneer quartz mills exerted a powerful influence in bring-
ing the Black Hills into public prominence as a gold-pro-
ducing region; in attracting capital, eager for profitable
investment, thereto, and in encouraging new discoveries
and future developments. Their operations convinced the
world that there was plenty of gold, bright gold, buried
beneath the pine-clad hills of the new El Dorado, awaiting
similar developments and needing improved and more ex-
tensive machinery to convert it into commercial value, and
it is thought that those enterprising pioneers who expended
their energies, and risked thousands of money in bringing
the Black Hills to the fore, are deserving of more credit
than the average man or woman in this day and generation
think to accord.
It may be proper to state here for the benefit of those
who know less about mining than an old Black Hills'
pioneer, that there is a distinction as well as a difference
between a stamp mill and a quartz mill. Paradoxical as it
may seem a stamp mill is essentially a quartz mill, but a
quartz mill is not necessarily a stamp mill. In a stamp mill
the ore is pulverized by stamp batteries, while in a quartz
mill other agencies may be employed for the purpose, as
in the case of the Bolthoff and Ball Pulverizer brought into
the Hills by Capt. Gardner, which pulverized the ore by
the rolling and tumbling of iron balls in a huge cylinder.
The first gold dust to the amount of $1,000, sent out
of the Black Hills, was carried from Custer City to Chey-
enne, by Emil Faust, now of Lead City, in the early part
of March, 1876. The gold was produced for the most part
from the placer deposits along the streams of the southern
and central Hills, during the late fall of 1875, and was
given into the custody of Mr. Faiist by several miners, to
be invested for their benefit in supplies. As there were
MILTON E. PIXXEY,
Who brought the first starap mill to the Black Hills in the fall
of 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 283
no highway robbers on the road, and but few Indians on
the warpath at that early date in 1876, the hazard of carry-
inw so much sold was, by virtue of these facts, reduced to
a minimun.
The first large shipment of gold dust from the Black
Hills was made by the Wheeler Brothers, late in the fall of
1876. Those old mountaineers had, during the summer
and fall of 1876, sluiced out thousands upon thousands of
o-litterino: gold from claim No. 2 below " Discovery " on
Deadwood gulch. Some alleged that they also worked the
lower half of No. 1 below ; the exact number of thousands
is not, and probably never will be, known. The amount
has been variously estimated at from $50,000 to $150,000,
and even more. At any rate, the boys had made a big
stake and were evidently satisfied. After going pretty
thoroughly over their claim, they sold out the residue of
the gold in the ground and in the tailings for two or three
thousand more, when they were ready to turn their backs
upon the Black Hills with their pockets filled to overflow-
ing with Black Hills gold.
As the country surrounding the Hills was still filled with
depredating bands of the hostile Indians — returned from
the battles of the Little Big Horn, and with numerous white
desperadoes, who were even more to be feared than the
Indians, the question as to the best means by which to ship
so large an amount of gold became a matter of grave
importance, and one demanding serious consideration.
They finally selected and employed a strong guard from
among the experienced miners — old mountaineers who, to
use a vulgar phrase, had been there before — to escort the
train and guard their golden treasure out of the Black
Hills, for a consideration of $25 per day, until reaching the
railroad. Other miners along the gulches who had a sur-
plus of gold dust, upon hearing of this arrangement for
shipment took advantage of the opportunity to ship with
them, thus increasing the amount of shipment by about
),000 — a tempting bait for an alert road agent. For-
284 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
tunately, however, owing to the secrec}^ with which the
arraugements were made, the first large shipment of gold
from the Black Hills reached the railway without encoun-
tering any serious trouble.
The Congregational Church of Deadwood is, beyond
■question, entitled to the proud distinction and honor of
having formed the tirst religious society ever organized in
the Black Hills. Late in the fall of 1876 Rev. L. P.
Norcross was sent by the American Home Mission Society
to Deadwood, where he began the work which, after
twenty-one years of hard, earnest Christian effort, has
culminated in the large and prosperous society of to-day.
Few, perhaps, of those who now worship God nnder the
domes of commodious church buildings of approved church
architecture, with stained-glass windows, cushioned seats
and richly-carpeted aisles, heated by furnaces and illumined
with incandescent lights, fully realize the uncomfortable
environments and limitations under which the nucleus of
the pioneer church organization of the Black Hills was
formed.
At first the devoted and self-sacrificing missionary, sent
to bring Deadwood sinners to repentance, and keep others
in the straight and narrow path, had, perforce, to conduct
his services here and there, wherever a place could be
secured for the purpose — in buildings wholly unsuitable
for the purpose, whose roofs were not always impervious
to rain, furnished with seats of rough boards without
cushions or backs, and lighted by a couple of kerosene
lamps. In such places Rev. Norcross, from a slightly
elevated platform — sometimes a mere box of some kind —
read his notes, if it was evening service, by the dim
rays of a coal oil lamp, while his listeners sat bolt upright
in their backless seats, sometimes shivering with cold.
Yes, this is a realistic picture — rather underdrawn.
Rev. Norcross held his first -services in Deadwood at the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 285^
Internalional Hotel on Main street, at the opening of which
service only five persons were present, this number, how-
ever, increasing to twenty-five or thirty before its close.
After two or three Sundays the building was rented for
a meat shop, when, for several Sundays, services were
conducted in the dining room of the Centennial Hotel.
The Deadwood theater building on Main street was then
tendered by its proprietor. Jack Langrishe, which generous
otfer, owing to the impracticability of heating the building,
and the fact that entertainments were frequently held in
the evening, was not accepted. The, society then com-
menced holding their meetings in a carpenter's shop in
South Deadwood, opposite Boughton and Berry's sawmill,
where services were continued for three or four months,
the fuel and lights being furnished free of charge by Col.
Backus. Occasional services were also held at other
places during the fall and winter of 1876 and 1877. About
the middle of January, 1877, the church proper was
organized, at which time, it is said, nine persons united by
letter.
In this connection I am reminded of a very amusing
incident that occurred, one evening when I was attending
services in a building situated, as I remember it, up toward
the point of McGovern hill. I think it was in 1877, and
the place may have been the first building erected by the
Congregational church. Be that as it may, during the ser-
vice a brisk shower came up, and soon the rain began to
percolate freely through the unfinished roof of the build-
ing, when, just as Rev. Norcross began his closing bene-
diction, a shrill childish voice piped out, and fell upon the
startled ears of the hushed congregation: "Oh, Mr.
Norcross! Mr. Norcross, its a-eaking on me! " — meaning
leaking — and no mistake it was a-eaking on the little tot,
as well as the rest of us, including Rev. Norcross. It is
needless to say that the little congregation was convulsed.
By the eftbrts of the ladies and private subscriptions,
suflScient funds were raised to build a church edifice and
286
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
purchase an organ, which, on July 9th, 1877, was turned
over to the trustees of the organization.
The first settler to avail himself of the pre-emption law
in the Black Hills was Mr. Jones, who made settlement on
160 acres of Section 10, Township 6, Range 2 East, on
December 5th, 1879, making filing No. 1 on January 27th,
1879, the same day the plat was received at the United
States Land Office at Deadvvood.
The first settlement in Black Hills under the Homestead
Act was made by Joseph Ransdell, of Spearfish, who made
entry No. 1 at the United States Land Office on February
3d, 1879, of 160 acres of Section 10, Township G, Range 2
East of Black Hills meridian.
The first man in the Black Hills to avail himself of the
act to encourage the growth of timber on the Western
prairies was E. D. Knight, who made Timber Culture Entry
No. 1 at United States Land Office on April 16th, 1879.
The government survey of the township and range in
which the first entries are located, was made by Charles
Scott in the summer and fall of 1878, and the plat filed in
the United States Land Office at Deadwood on January
27th, 1879.
The first herd of beef cattle to arrive in the Black Hills
was brought in by Mart Boughton and a man called
" Skew " Johnston, from Cheyenne, Wyoming. Whether
or not " Skew " was his real name, is an open question.
The first minstrel troupe in the Black Hills appeared in
Custer on August 18th, 1876, and gave their first perform-
ance that night in Long Branch Hall. Admission fee, 75
cents.
The first livery stable in the Black Hills was opened in
Deadwood by Clark & Morill, in the spring of 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 287
CHAPTER XXI.
CUSTER IN 1876,
Custer narrowly escaped achieving a place on the pages
of Black Hills history under another name. It may not
be generally known that the pioneer town of the Black
Hills was once named Stonewall, in honor of the brave
Confederate General Stonewall Jackson. Yet it is never-
theless a fact, a fact, however, of which it has no reason
to feel ashamed, as it in no way reflects discredit upon Cus-
ter's fair fame and honored name, to have once borne the
suggestive appellation given to that gallant defender of the
" lost cause."
We have it upon authentic authority that as early as
July, 1875, a town-site company was organized, and the
present site of Custer laid out, and called Stonewall, which
name it bore until its reorganization a month later.
On the 10th day of August, 1875, at a mass meeting of
nearly all the miners then in the Black Hills, who had
gathered there in compliance with the order of Gen.
Crook, a new town-site company was organized, and a
board of trustees elected, of which Tom Hooper was
chosen clerk. On that day a site, one mile square, about
two and one-half miles above the stockade on French
creek, was surveyed, laid out, platted, and by unanimous
choice christened Custer in honor of the brave, intrepid
leader of the first military expedition to penetrate the
Black Hills, Gen. G. A. Custer. The platted town-site
was then divided into lots from one to 1200 and on the
11th day of August, 1875, several hundred miners became
(through the medium of a lottery) nominal, if not defacto^
owners of Black Hills real estate to the extent of a town
lot in Custer. As before stated, the survey of the site was
288 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
made with a small pocket compas3, the lines laid by means
of picket ropes, and the plat drawn on a piece of birch
bark twelve inches square, stripped from a tree growing
on the border of French creek.
By permission of Gen. Crook, a detachment of United
States soldiers aided in the work of survey. The plat,
which has unfortunately been lost, was drawn by Tom
Hooper.
Among the first permanent settlers in Custer were D.
W. Flick, Sam Shankland, Tom Hooper, and D. K.
Snively, whose respective feet trod the ground upon which
the prosperous city of to-day stands, even before the site
was laid and called Stonewall. In March, 1876, the town
of Custer, which then comprised the major part of the
population of the Black Hills, asserted itself and assumed
the dignity of a full-fledged municipality. A mass conven-
tion of the people of the Hills was held, at which all neces-
sary city officers were duly elected. This same convention
also organized a provisional government for the entire Black
Hills, established a superior court, whose jurisdiction was to
extend over the uncertain length and breadth of the Black
Hills, which court was constituted a tribunal of last resort
for all legal transactions within its jurisdiction until
such time as regularly authorized courts should be estab-
lished by the government. This convention elected Thos.
Hooper Judge of the Supreme Court. The municipal
officers elected were as follows: Mayor, Dr. Bemis ; Justice
of the Peace, E. P. Keiffer; City Marshal, John Burrows.
Among the twelve members of the Council were: Capt.
Jack Crawford, D. K. Snively, S. R. Shankland, Cyrus
Abbey, D. Wright, Emil Faust, — Robinson; others not
known. In November, 1876, another election was held
and the following full complement of municipal officers
elected, viz. : Supreme Judge, J. W. C. White ; City Clerk,
S. R. Shankland; City Attorney, G. H.Mills; City Treas-
urer, W. H. Harlowe ; City Marshal, Michael Carroll;
City Surveyor, A. J. Parshall; City Assessor, Joseph
THOMAS HOOTER,
Judge of the Black Hills Superior Court, established in lieu of
regular courts, by the people of the Black Hills, in con-
vention assembled at Custer City, in March, 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 289
Reynolds; Justices of the Peace, I. W. Getchell, W. A.
Freeze, and A. B. Hughes; Board of Trustees, G. W.
Rothrock, President and ex-officio Mayor, G. V. Ayres,
Joseph Bliss, W. H. Bunnell, E. Schlewning, G. A. Clark,
W. D. Gardner, D. K. Snively, F. B. Smith, E. G. Ward,
M. Woodward, and A. Yerkes.
CUSTER IN 1876.
Custer, which in the marvelously short period of the
three months prior to its emergence from its swaddling
clothes had expanded from a few prospectors into a popu-
lation of from six to seven thousand souls, was destined ere
many months to become nearly depopulated.
The alluring reports reaching that southern camp of the
rich gold discoveries in the northern gulches of Dead wood
and Whitewood, quickly emptied the new city of its entire
11)
290 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
floating population; miners, eager to find richer fields for
mining operations; business men actuated by similar eco-
nomic considerations, soon followed in their wake, until
finally, it is said, only fourteen of the thousands remained
in the city to direct its future destinies and to lay the
foundation of a more enduring prosperity.
Although the blow inflicted upon the aspiring young city
was severe, it was by no means vital, it giving only a tem-
porary shock from which with wonderful recuperative
powers, stimulated by the push and energy of a few deter-
mined men, it gradually recovered. Failing to find a place
to drive their stakes in the upper gulches, a few of the
deserters soon returned, ready to pin their faith to the
pioneer city and the southern gulches.
One of those who stood resolutely by the town was
Samuel Shankland, whom no distant enchantment or big
stampede ever had power to swerve from his steadfast
loyalty to the town he helped to found.
Ever since the day in June, 1875, when he, with one sole
companion, stood trembling on a bluff" overlooking the val-
ley of French creek, furtively watching from behind a high
ledge of micaceous rock, the dreaded blue coats of Col.
Dodge's command, he has been true to his first love.
As the government had, in the late fall of 1875, with-
drawn all opposition to immigration into the Black Hills,
so it had also practically withdrawn all protection to the
people, thus leaving them in the spring of 1876 to depend
entirely upon their own resources for means of defense
against the hostilities of the Sioux, who would, with the
opening of the buds and the sprouting of grass, be on the
warpath. Realizing this danger, the people of the exposed
settlements began early to organize for defensive opera-
tions against Indian surprises which were sure to come.
Custer, owing to its location on one of the principal lines
of travel into the Hills, occupied an inviting position for
Indian raids, so its citizens, wide awake to the peril that
menaced their lives and property, about the middle of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 291
March, 1876, formed an organization, consisting of 125 men,
composed of the best bone and sinew of the city, known
as the *' Custer Minute Men," to serve as a home-guard.
At the head of this organization was Capt. Jack Oawford,
the famous government scout, with Chas. Whitehead as
his First-lieutenant. The organization was effected none
too soon, as early in April hostilities began.
These Indian depredations were directed chiefly against
small parties of immigrants, making their way into the
Hills, while passing through the gloomy defiles of Buff'alo
Gap and Red Canyons, springing suddenly out upon them
from ambush, capturing their horses, destroying their
goods, and often killing the owners who fell bravely
defending their property.
Frequently small bands of the red thieves would ride
their fleet ponies to the limits of the town, dismount and
sneak stealthily to where horses were grazing, cut the
lariat ropes, then mount and away with ill-gotten booty
like a flash. Occasionally, they even made bold dashes
right through the town, — yelling like demons in seeming
defiance of the settlers, who, mounting in hot haste, would
follow in distant pursuit, — usually too late to overtake the
bold marauders. The following extract from a letter,
written by a well-known and honored pioneer of 1876,
Samuel Booth, now deceased, to the Oskosh Times, describ-
ing his journey from Sidney to the Black Hills in April,
1876, will pretty clearly illustrate the dangerous environ-
ments of the pioneer city at that time. In his closing
paragraphs he says : —
" Now we find ourselves in the Black Hills proper.
The roads are rough and rocky, and the hills are covered
with a thick growth of Norway pine. About noon we
came upon three wagons that had been captured by the
Indians. Everything in them that had not been carried
ofi* was destroyed; cofiee mills broken, flour scattered
about; harness cut into small pieces, and wagons shot full
of balls. About a half mile further on we came to another
292 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
place where there had been a battle; — blood on the
stones, — any amount of cartridge shells, and other signs
that showed that we were near to business. That night
we all stood with our guns in our hands and the next day
we drove into Custer — sixteen days from Sidney.
" I had slept only a short nap at noon since I left the
Bad Lands, and now that we were safe in sight of a thousand
men, and where the sound of axes, hammers, and saws,
seemed equal to Oskosh, and miners were turning French
creek in every direction, my first thought was to get a
little sleep. I accordingly threw a blanket on the ground,
dropped upon it, and was soon in the land of ' Nod.'
How long I slept I do not know, but I do know that 1 was
aroused by somebody falling over me, — coffee pots and
frying pans rattling, women and children screaming, guns
rattling, and last, but not least, about a dozen Indians gal-
loping across the valley, yelling like mad. The next
minute, and before we could get our guns ready, they had
dashed into the timber on the other side of the valley and
were gone, taking several head of horses with them.
Hurrah, for the ' Custer Minute Men ! ' Saddle and bridle
your poor skeleton horses and give chase. In fifteen min-
utes they are in motion; — and in an hour and a half they
came back leading their poor jaded horses, and thus ended
another raid on Custer."
The above is a true picture of the temper of the hostiles
in 187(3. During the month of April at least three sep-
arate parties of emigrants were attacked in Buff'alo Gap
Canyon, whose outfits were found in the condition described
in Mr, Booth's letter. In one case the scene of attack
gave evidence that there had been a fierce conflict between
the savages and their victims.
Among the first and most atrocious of the bloody deeds
committed in the spring of 1876 was the killing of Col.
Brown and another of his party, and the massacre of the
Metz family in Red Canyon when on their way out of the
Hills.
S. M. BOOTH,
One of Custer's early settlers in 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
293
Col. Brown, familiarly known as Stuttering Brown,
agent of the Cheyenne & Black Hills Stage Co., and an-
other man, whose name is unknown, were killed, and a
man called " Curley " badly wounded, at a point near the
mouth of Red Canyon, on April 22d, 1876. Col. Brown
was on his way out from Custer to Cheyenne with his two
SCENE AT RED CANYON AFTER THE MURDER OF THE METZ PARTY.
companions, to look up a more practicable route to the
Hills, and to establish stations along the line thereof for
the above mentioned company, when they met their doom.
The Indians (if Indians they were) swooped down upon the
little party from behind a projecting headland, at a time
and place, perhaps, when they least expected an attack,
mortally wounding the two and dangerously wounding the
294 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
other. They were found and carried to the Cheyenne
river station, where Col. Brown died that night, the other
dying the next day. " Curley," the driver of the team, was
taken first to Hat Creek station, where he laid for many
days in a little log hut, hovering between life and death.
As soon as it was possible to move the wounded man he
was conveyed to Fort Laramie, where he finally recovered.
Many believe that the deed was not committed by the
Indians but by a character called Persimmons Bill and his
associates, in an attempt to get possession of the horses
belonging to the company. More, however, believe the
perpetrators to have been Indians. Be that as it may, the
horses were taken, while the wagon, riddled with bullets
and bespattered with blood, was found, upturned, near the
scene of the attack. The scene of the tragedy gave evi-
dence that the men sold their lives dearly.
MASSACRE OF METZ FAMILY.
Two days later, April 24th, the Metz party, consisting
of husband and wife, a man who drove the team, and a
colored woman, while on their way out from Custer to their
home in Laramie City, Wyoming, in passing through Red
Canyon were pounced upon by a band of ambushed savages
and every member of the defenseless little party brutally
massacred. After lying there, scattered along the trail as
tempting bait for the hungry vultures for many hours,
three of the victims were found, taken to the Cheyenne
river stage station, and temporarily buried. After a few
days the other victim (the colored woman) was found in a
ravine a little distance away, her body pierced with numer-
ous arrows. It appeared that she had attempted to escape,
was overtaken in her flight and murdered. Mrs. Metz also
had attempted to escape, as her body was found nearly a
half mile from the point of attack where the demolished
vs^agon and goods, scattered broadcast, were found. There
was one notable feature about those early Indian attacks,
viz. : that they rarely took the provisions of their victims,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
295
and indeed they had no need to as those graceless wards
of the government were amply provided with rations.
HOSTILES RETURNING FROM LITTLE BIG HORN.
From the latter part of May until after the battles of the
Little Big Horn, the people of the Hills had a comparative
surcease from Indian outrages. A little before the middle
of July, however, the hosts of Crazy Horse, who had Hed
from that sanguinary battlefield towards the Black Hills
before Gen. Crook's pursuing army, separated into numer-
ous small bands and emboldened by their recent victory
and with whetted appetites, renewed aggressive operations
against the outposts of the Hills on the north, south, and
east. For the two following months those flitting bandits
seemed to be omnipresent and there was no telling when
nor where they would make their unwelcome presence felt.
Scarcely a day passed that did not bring to light some dark
tragedy for which they were responsible. Men were way-
laid and murdered in almost every part of the Hills ; trains
were harassed and beleaguered along all the lines thereto ;
horses were stolen and run off; herds of cattle were driven
away, slaughtered and jerked before they could be over-
taken; in short, the people of the exposed settlements
were kept in a chronic state of horror and suspense. Verily,
those were days that tried the souls of the pioneers.
In the early part of July, word came from Gen. Crook to
Custer that a large band of 800 Indians was making its
way towards the Black Hills, with the avowed purpose of
driving out the white settlers from their country, creating
no little excitement and consternation, — especially among
the women and children, of whom there were a consider-
able number in the city. On receipt of this alarming in-
formation, a meeting of the citizens was called to consider
measures for the better defense of the city — when the
building of a stockade, large enough to afford a refuge for
the population of the city in the event of an attack, was
agreed upon. Money and work were liberally subscribed.
296 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
and the next morninof a large force of men was at work
upon the building, which was hurried to speedy completion.
The immense log structure of 100x150 square feet was
built on the north side of Custer avenue, across Seventh
street, which point, although central, was not within speedy
reach of many residents in case of a surprise.
For this reason two of Custer's enterprising citizens —
Joseph Reynolds and H. A. Albion — who lived several
blocks away from the stockade, determined to construct
private fortifications for the benefit of their own respective
families and those of their nearest neighbors, to which
they would be able to escape, without encountering Indian
bullets, at the first signal of alarm. These two fortifica-
tions were planned and constructed wholly along under-
ground lines, and reflected great credit upon the ingenuity
of the designers.
An underground passage-way was first dug from their
cabins to a distance of about fifteen feet, where a room
ten feet square, and just deep enough to permit an average
man to stand erect, was excavated ; along the top margin
of the excavation were laid hewn timbers, into which
numerous portholes were bored, and through which all
Indians coming within the range, long or short, of their
guns, were to be perforated; a board roof covered with
a thick layer of earth completed the works — making
altogether an ideal underground fort. Fortunately, the
people of Custer were never compelled to take refuge
within the fortifications, as no formidable force of Indians
ever assailed the city. However, small bands were to be
seen, almost daily, skulking around the outskirts of the
city, stealing horses and killing many of those who ven-
tured outside the city limits.
RAIDS ox CUSTER.
On July 24th ten heads of horses were run off while the
herder was at dinner. A party of ten mounted men started
at once in pursuit of the thieves, and, after a long chase,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 297
came, about dark, upon two of the stolen horses, shot
through the head, when the chase was given up.
On July 27th two teams belonging to a large freight
train, about ready to start to Sidney for goods, was driven
out a little distance beyond the city limits, to get better
grazing until the train should come along. eTust as the
horses were unhitched from the wagons and before the
harness was removed, seven Indians dashed up with a
whoop, captured and drove off the four horses with their
harness on, the two men having the horses in charge very
wisely running away at the first whoop of the savages.
This easy conquest emboldened them to come nearer the
city, but they encountered a man the next time who was
not so easily frightened, as will be seen.
A man by the name of Welch who had camped for the
night in one of the vacant buildings on the outskirts of the
city, was letting his four horses graze, watched by him-
self and son, while his wife was preparing supper within
the cabin, when six of the Indians galloped up and at-
tempted to drive off the four horses, at the same time
firing their guns at the men, one of the balls just grazing
the cheek of the elder Welch. "I'll not run a single step
for the whole race of yez," he yelled, making a motion as
if brushing it away from his cheek. Quickly his Sharp's
rifle came to his shoulder, and he began throwing back
lead at the would-be thieves, when one of them sank down
in his saddle, badly, if not fatally wounded. In the mean-
time Mrs. Welch had rushed in between the two firing
parties, caught two of the horses and led them into an
empty cabin — the other two following, and then with rifle
in hand, came out and joined her husband and son in the
battle.
The Indians, finding the plucky Celts more than a match
for them, rode hastily away, two of them riding beside
their wounded or dead comrade. As they rode away Mr.
Welch, Sr., called out to them, at the same time shaking
his fist threateningly toward them, " Bad cess to yez, ye
298 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
thavin', murtherin' spalpeens. By the howly Moses, if
oi had a howld of yez, its mesilf would give yez sich a
batin' as yez niver dhraraed uv." Two boys who had wit-
nessed the whole affray from behind a log, thought they
could easily have killed the six Indians, if they had been
provided with guns. This raid created intense excitement
in Custer. A hundred armed men were in the street in a
minute after the alarm was sounded, and in a very brief
time twenty-five " minute men," were in their saddles,
ready to start in pursuit of the Indians, but were just in
time to see them disappear in the thick timber.
SCALPED A MAN ALIVE.
During those terrible days, a small party, among whom
was a man named Ganzio, left Custer for Fort Laramie.
When near Hat Creek Station, Ganzio, while looking for a
place to camp, a little in advance of his companions, was
fired at by a band of Indians as they rushed out from
ambush, and he fell. In relating his experience of what
followed, he said: *' One of the Indians put his knee on
my back, another hit me with the butt of his gun ; then
they drew their sharp knife and commenced scalping me.
It was too much; I died, or thought I died." Hearing
his loud cries, several of the party came running up, just
in time to prevent the Indians from fully completing the
operation. His scalp was laid back, when he was taken
with all possible dispatch to Fort Laramie, and placed in
the care of the army surgeon. He lived to relate the
horrible experience of being scalped alive.
In the latter part of July, a party of four miners with a
team and light wagon loaded with supplies, while on their
way to one of the northern gulches (I think Potato gulch),
where they had been prospecting, were attacked by a band
of Indians and the whole party killed. The horses were
taken, the wagon riddled with bullets, and their supplies
scattered over the ground. Some one who, in passing over
the trail soon after, discovered the bodies and the wrecked
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 299
outfit, carried the shocking news to Custer, when a party
of its citizens hastened to the scene of the tragedy, about
fifteen miles distant, secured and placed the bodies in their
own bullet-pierced wagon and brought them to Guster,
where, in a spot set apart for Indian victims, a short dis-
tance below the city, they were decently buried.
A few days after the last recorded atrocity, four other
men (haymakers) were killed and scalped within a short
distance of Custer. The unfortunate men, who were en-
gaged at the time in cutting hay for Ernest Schleuning, Sr.,
now of Rapid City, went out from Custer on the morning
of that fatal day to their work in the hay field, but never
returned alive. They had not been gone long before a man
came running into the city, breathless and excited, and
reported that he had seen Indians out in the direction of the
hay field, and that they were up to some deviltry, as he
put it. Of course the man did not wait to investigate.
In less time than it takes to relate the facts, nearly all
the able-bodied men of the city were armed and on their
way to the point indicated ; some on horseback dashing over
the ground with the speed of the wind, others in wagons
rattling along the rough trail, with break-neck speed ; many
hurrying along on foot, and all willing and anxious to risk
their lives to get a shot at the red dare-devils who were
daily committing such wanton butcheries. Arrived on the
scene, the Indians were nowhere to be seen, but the work
of their gory hands was painfully in evidence. The bodies
of the four men were found scalped, and curiously enough,
three of them were scalped in sections of four circular
pieces each, while the fourth was removed in one piece.
The supposition was that there were thirteen Indians, each
of whom desired a piece to exhibit as a trophy of his
wonderful achievement.
One of the murdered men was Wilder Cooper, a half-
brother of Attorney Cooper of Sundance, Wyoming, an-
other was a young German, name unknown, a stranger in
the city, who before leaving that morning, gave to an
300 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
acquaintance his name, the atklress of his relatives, etc.,
indicating that he either felt a presentiment of his coming
doom, or realized that no person could in those days leave
the protection of the city without taking his life in his own
hands. The bodies of the murdered men were interred in
the little graveyard a mile or so below Custer, where to-
day, may be found among the tangled underbrush and
weeds, the sunken graves of numerous victims of Indian
savagery, little slabs of crumbling wood marking the spot
where repose their ashes.
Custer's first regularly licensed physician was Dr. D.
W. Flick, now of Rapid City, who began the practice of
his profession in the spring of 1876, and by virtue of
priority of residence, was the first in the Black Hills. The
climate of Custer, however, proved so deplorably healthy,
that the doctor was finally forced to leave that region of
perennial health for some more sickly clime.
Its first hotel was built in Fel)ruary, 1876, bv a man
named Druggeman, who also purchased the first town lot sold
in Custer of one Jacobs, during the same month and year.
The first store of general merchandise was opened and
kept by Jas. Roberts, on Custer avenue, between Fifth and
Sixth streets, in February, 1876. Roberts is said to have
died in Deadwood during the year 1890.
The first saw-mill in the Black Hills was brought to
Custer and operated by J. F. Murphy in February, 1876.
The fiist legal practitioners were Judge Thos. Hooper
and Thos, E. Harvey, — both receiving their first retaining
fee in the same case.
The first newspaper half sheet printed in Custer was
struck off by Laughlin & Merrick in May, 1876 — only one
issue being printed. The first established newspaper was
the Custer Herald, first published by J. S. Bartholomew &
Co. in October, 1876, — continuing about six months.
Frank B. Smith, for many years identified with the busi-
ness interests of the Hills, was Custer's private postmaster
in 1876, all the mail brought to the Hills by pony express
THOMAS K. HARVEY,
•One of the attorneys in the first law case ever tried in the Black Hills.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 301
for that point passing through his hands. Prior to the
establishnient of the pony express, Mr. Smith also handled
much of the mail brought to the Hills by trains, purchasing
it from the carriers for a safe consideration, then selling:
the letters for ten cents apiece at Custer, vvhile those
addressed to Deadsvood were taken there and sold for
twenty-five cents each, — making a handsome profit by the
transaction.
Conspicuous among the residents of Custer in 1876, was
the versatile Black Hills humorist, E. T. Peirce, familiarly
called Doc Peirce, the very "prince of good fellows"
among the early pioneers, and their staunch friend. A
very interesting. character was he in pioneer days, wherever
he chanced to pitch his tent. With an acute sense of the
ridiculous there was no occurrence so pathetic that " Doc "
could not detect, without the aid of a Roentgen ray, a
thread of the comic running through its warp and woof.
Viewing things from an optimistic standpoint, he ever saw
the silver linino; behind the darkest cloud. Among the
" boys " he gained for himself the reputation of being very
fond of and much addicted to practical jokes, to which
numerous of his unfortunate victims could testify, if they
were so disposed, but it was as a story-teller that " Doc"
took the " cake." I know of several who have made for
themselves a brilliant record in that line, yet, if I were a
betting character, I should be willing to wager a quarter
that " Doc Peirce " has spun more yarns than any other
man who ever emigrated to the Black Hills.
Possessing an inexhaustible fund of information and
boundless resources, he never failed to make his recitals
drawing cards, and whether seated outside the door of his
cabin of a summer's eve, deftly touching the strings of
his guitar, or whether inside around his rude hearthstone,
before the glowing blaze of a pitch pine fire of a winter's
night, he never failed to draw around him a crowd of in-
terested listeners, who, by their loud merriment, attested
their appreciation of the entertainment.
302
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
E. T. Peirce arrived in Custer on March 16th, 1876.
In June of that year he went to Deadwood, returning on
August 16th, to Custer, where he remained until April 1st,
1878, when he went to Rapid City, and with Dan J. Staf-
ford, opened the hotel now known as the International.
In the fall of 1880 he was elected sheriff of Pennington
County. In 1886 he removed from Rapid City to Hot
Springs, where he now resides. Mr. Pierce was also deputy
sheriff of Custer County before coming to Rapid City.
Among those who lived in Custer, with their families,
during the days of peril, were H. A. Albion, A. B.
Hughes, Abram Yerkes, Jos. Reynolds, Dr. Flick, Gen.
Scott, Harry Wright and W. H. Harlow, Mrs. Chas. Hay-
ward, Bob Pugb, afterwards issuing clerk at Pine Ridge
Agency, and others. Of the above named H. A. Albion
and family are still residents of the pioneer city. Mr. Al-
bion was at one time engaged, in connection with S. Booth,
in freighting between Sidney and the Black Hills.
ELLIS T. PEIRCK,
The Black Hills Humorist.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 303
CHAPTER XXir.
RAPID CITY IN 1876.
Rapid City — now just past its legal majority — was
founded on the 25th of February, 1876, thus giving it the
prestige of being, in point of age, the second city estab-
lished in the Black Hills. It was on the 23d day of Feb-
ruary, 1876, that John R. Brennan, Martin Pensinger, Thos.
Ferguson, W. P. Martin, Albert Brown, and Wm. Marsten,
arrived on Rapid creek from Palmer gulch, in quest of a
desirable place upon which to lay the foundation of a city.
After having spent nearly the entire winter in digging
ditches, and delving in vain, in that auriferous gulch, for
the glittering flakes and nuggets, for which Palmer gulch
afterwards became famous, they finally concluded that
founding cities might prove a more profitable enterprise.
Accordingly on that winter's day, they packed their
blankets and other equipments, — meanwhile keeping their
own counsel, and set out on their new venture, in a north-
easterly direction towards Rapid creek, — camping the
first night at the point where that swiftly flowing stream
comes dashing down from the shadow of the mountains
into the broad valley, near what is now known as Cleghorn
Springs, about five miles above Rapid City.
The next day, February 24th, the party went down the
valley of Rapid creek, a distance of about twenty miles
towards its mouth, exploring each graceful bend and
abrupt turn of the creek for a suitable place to draw their
line, returning at night to the foot-hills, without having
found a spot with the essential characteristics of their ideal
town-site. That night they established a temporary camp,
and planted the banner of civilization, at the point of
rocks, the present location of the Electric Light Com-
304 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
pany's power house on the north side of Kapid creek,
where they were joined by a number of men who had fol- ,
lowed them from Palmer gulch, surmising that they had
left to find new diggings. Among the new arrivals were
Sam. Scott, J. W. Allen, James Carney, Major Hutchinson,
and Wm. Nuttall.
On the evening of the 24th they went into committee of
the whole, and held a meeting under a big tree, at the
point of rocks, when it was decided to lay out a town-site
near the foot-hills on Rapid creek, at an eligible point,
looking to the trade of the Hills, as well as to the rich
agricultural country in the valley below. They argued
and believed that the valley would, in the near future,
become the route of extensive travel to the Hills, and that
a town at the grand gateway would become the focus of
an extensive trade.
That their judgment was not at fault and their faith well
founded, twenty-one years of commercial prosperity has
fully shown.
The next day, February 25th, the site was selected, sur-
veyed and laid out along the river to conform to the
topography of the valley, and, at the suggestion of W. P.
Martin, appropriately named Rapid City, after the stream
on whose banks it is located. By the aid of a pocket com-
pass and tape line, the survey was made by Sam. Scott,
assisted by J. R. Brennan, James Carney, and J. W. Allen.
The ground laid out, covering an area of one mile square,
embraced the original town-site of Rapid City. J. W.
Allen was chosen recorder.
The six blocks occupying the center of the plat, were
divided into lots, and drawn by lottery, each person pres-
ent being allowed the privilege of drawing five lots, the
rafile taking place at the intersection of 5th and 6th streets,
that point being the center of the plat. At a meeting held
on the evening of the 25th, a town-site company was or-
ganized by the election of a board of five trustees, viz. :
J. R. Brennan, Wm. Marsten, J. W. Allen, Major Hutch-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 305
iuson, and Wm. Nuttall, whose prescribed duty was to
conduct the affairs of the town in a manner to subserve
the best interests of its people.
On the day the town was platted, a party composed of
Frank Wyraan, Fred Edgar, C. Bates, and United States
Marshal Ash, arrived at the camp from Yankton via
Pierre, they being the first ones to reach the Black Hills
by that route.
The first enterprise looking to the up-building of the
new town-site was a project for laying out a route of travel
between Rapid City and Fort Pierre, with a view of en-
couraging freight and passenger traffic from Eastern points
over the line to the natural gateway to the Black Hills. In
furtherance of the project, on the eighth day of the follow-
ing March, J. R. Brennan and Frank Conley accompanied
Fred. Edgar, C. W. Marshall and a Mr. Field on a trip of
exploration across the country, for the purpose of select-
ing the most feasible route to Fort Pierre, accomplishing
the journey in six days ; not, however, without experienc-
ing the exposure and hardships incident to a March journey
across the Dakota plains. It is related that during the
trip the party encountered a regular Dakota blizzard, lost
a horse, and was twenty-four hours without food.
A party of about 100 men, destined for the Black Hills,
was found waiting at Pierre, and soon after, another
party of equal numbers, led by Gen. Campbell, arrived at
Pierre, en route for the same point. By arrangement,
Conley conducted Gen. Campbell's party, over the new
route to the Hills ; Brennan, meanwhile, proceeded to
Yankton, for the purpose of filing the plat of Rapid City
in the United States Land Office, then, returning to Pierre,
piloted the other party, under the leadership of one Dillon,
to Rapid City, where he arrived on April 8th, after an
absence of one month.
The first cabin built in Rapid City was commenced on
the day the town-site was platted, by Sam. Scott, at the
corner of 4th and Rapid streets, where it stood an unob-
20
306 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
trusive landmark, until 1879, when it was decreed that the
little old log cabin must go, to make room for the onward
strides of improvement.
The first hotel in Rapid City was built and conducted by
J. R. Brennan, on Rapid street, between Fifth and Sixth
streets. The structure in which Mr. Brennan entertained
his guests in 1876, was a log cabin 12x14 square feet,
but, as to whether it was partitioned into two or more
apartments, or left in one spacious room of 168 square feet,
tradition is silent. Be that as it may, it is safe to record
that its guests were served with the best the market
afforded, — to say nothing of the extra luxuries of game
and fish, for, be it known that " mine host " of Rapid
City's first hotel is a successful Nimrod, as well as a
devotee of the hook and line.
B}' the way, a funny story is told of the way John
Brennan managed the cuisine department of that early
hostelry, for the truth of which, however, I am not able
to vouch, and, to be candid I do not believe a word of
the story. It is related that when transient visitors came
to the hotel and called for dinner, Mr. Brennan imme-
diately hied him forth to the grocery store and purchased
just as much provision as would seem sufficient for their
dinners, promising to pay therefor when he secured the
money from his customers. He returned, took their orders,
and yelled the same into an adjoining room to an imaginary
cook, then disappeared behind the scenes and prepared the
dinner with his own hands.
The first store of general merchandise in Rapid City
was established by Oscar Nicholson in March, 1886.
Rapid City was surrounded by none of the conditions
which characterized the abnormal growth of the early
mining camps of the Hills. Having no rich placer dis-
coveries to draw the eager rushins; throno; of sjold-seeking
adventurers to expand its population, its development
depended largely upon its admirable location on the main
line of travel from the Missouri river to the eastern gate-
JOHN R. BRENNAN.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 307
way to the Hills, and upon its prospective commercial pos-
sibilities as a base of supplies for the many mining com-
munities springing up therein. The new town was, how-
ever, content to pursue the even tenor of its way, confident
of achieving ultimate greatness in a gradual and conserva-
tive manner.
The growth of Rapid City was materially retarded in
1876 by the persistent hostilities of the Indians, who, by
their frequent murderous attacks upon parties of travelers
making their way into the Hills, struck dumb terror into
the hearts of many would-be settlers, especially those of
the tenderfoot class. Owing to its exposed position on the
eastern limits of the Hills, outside the gate, perhaps some
of the early settlements suffered more from the a^orressive
operations of the Indians along the line of horse stealing
than Rapid City and vicinity.
For two months after the middle of March, the few
settlers who were determined to stay by the town, were
kept constantly on the alert with loaded rifles in hand for
the thieving redskins, who were seen almost daily skulking
around the outskirts of the town, watching their opportun-
ity to creep stealthily to the limits where horses were pick-
eted, or with a whoop, make a bold dash, capture and run
off horses not their own. That they often succeeded and
sometimes failed in their purpose, the following cases will
show.
On the 14th of March a band of Indians made a bold
dash, to the limits of the town and succeeded in ofetting
safely away with a herd of twenty-eight horses, belonging
to Bob Burleigh, at one time sheriff" of Pennington County,
Dan. Williams, Jud. Ellis, John Dugdale, and Ben. North-
ington. Encouraged by their success, they returned on
April 12th and made another attempt to stampede a num-
ber of horses, but this time failed in their purpose. After
a brisk interchange of shots the Indians made their escape
followed by a hail of bullets from the guns of the settlers.
During the unsuccessful raid they succeeded in killing
308 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
a doo; belonoring to Rufus Madison, and demolishino; a
wagon.
On the 6th day of April, a man named Herman was killed
a short distance below Rapid . On the 15th of the same
month Capt. Dodge, of Bismarck, was killed near Spring
Valley. Capt. Dodge was the leader of a party number-
ing about 100 men who made their way across the country
from Bismarck to the Hills. When near Rapid City he
discovered the loss of a calf from the outfit, and returned
alone to look for the missing property, the rest of the
party proceeding on their journey to Rapid City. As
their leader failed to put in an appearance, and apprehen-
sive that he had fallen a victim to the bloodthirsty Sioux,
on the following morning a party headed by J. R. Bren-
nan, organized and went back on the trail in search of the
missing man. Their worst fears were soon realized, as the
unfortunate man was found at a point near Spring Valley,
his body riddled with bullets; his horse lay nearby, having
shared his master's fate. There was every evidence that
the brave man made a desperate struggle for his life, but
the odds were against him and he was overpowered.
The next day, April 16th, another man was killed on the
Pierre road about two miles east of Rapid City.
On the 6th of May, Edwin Sadler, N. H. Gardner, Texas
Jack, and John Harrison, were killed on the Pierre road
east of Rapid City, and during the same month S. C.
Dodge, Henry Herring, and C. Nelson, were killed and
scalped and their bodies burned just above Rapid City.
For a period of about two months, from the middle of
May, there was a comparative cessation of hostilities around
the Hills, the major part of the Indians having left to join
Sitting Bull in the Northwest. However, from the middle
of July until Gen. Crook's return from his summer cam-
paign against the Indians in September, they kept the
people of Rapid City and other border settlements in a
state of constant terror by their murderous work.
On the 22d of August, two men, who were building a
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
309
cabin on a ranch about two miles below town, were attacked
by a band of the hostiles, returned from the Little Horn.
The men, under a brisk fire, succeeded in reaching their
horses that were picketed near by, and made their escape
towards Rapid City, making a running fight for a mile or
so, when the Indians gave up the chase without capturmg
men or horses. As soon as the fugitives reached Rapid,
one of its citizens mounted a horse and rode swiftly up the
valley to warn wayfarers of the proximity of the savages,
which warning, however, was a little too late, as the Indians
had preceded°the messenger, and had already succeeded in
killing two men at a point about two miles west of Cleg-
horn '^Springs. The names of the victims were J. VV.
Patterson and Thos. E. Pendleton.
On the same day, and about the same time, four men,
who were on their way from Deadwood to Rapid City, were
attacked at Limestone Springs, on the Crook City and
Deadwood road, and two of them killed. The party con-
sisted of Sam. Scott, I. S. Livermore, G. W. Jones, and
John Erquhart. The two latter were killed, Scott and
Livermore making their escape into the woods about a half
a mile distant, where they lay secreted until dark, when
they made their way to Rapid City, arriving at about 10
■o'clock p. m.
The next morning, fifteen or twenty men, with one of
Volin's freight wagons, started up the valley to bring in
the bodies of the murdered men, first going for those of
Jones and Erquhart, which were found about one-half mile
north of the Leedy springs — from which Rapid City now
crets its water supply. They then drove over to the old
mill site after the other two victims, one of whom was
found lyincr on his face in the creek, the other on the trail
about 100 "yards away. The bodies, both of which were
scaloedand terribly mutilated, were placed in the wagon
with the others and taken to Rapid City for interment.
While the party was absent on its humane and seif-
sacrificincr mission, the men who had arranged to leave the
310 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
couDtry with the Volin train, had become wrought up to a
high pitch of excitement, and demanded the immediate
removal of the bodies from the wagon, that the train might
pull out for Fort Pierre. The proprietor of the outfit ex-
postulated with the terror-stricken tenderfeet, to wait until
a decent disposition should be made of the dead, but all in
vain. Impressed with the feeling that delay meant almost
certain death, they insisted that the train must move at
once — if not with, without the consent of its proprietor.
The bodies were removed from the wagon and laid in
ghastly array on the ground beside a log cabin, when the
train immediately pulled out for Fort Pierre, and with it
went nearly the entire population of Rapid City, fleeing
from the terrible Indian-infested country as if a pursuing
Nemesis followed closely upon their trail.
Out of a population of 200 only eighteen brave men and
one courageous woman had the nerve to stay. The names
of the nineteen [)lucky ones were: Capt. E. LeGro, J. R.
Brennan, Howard Worth, N. Newbanks, Charles N. Allen,
Charles L. Allen, Jake Dawson, Mart. Pensinger, Andy
Griffith, George Boland, Jim Moody, Hugh McKay, Reddy
Johnson and wife, O. Nicholson, Pap Madison, Wm. F.
Steele, and Bob Burleigh, and one other not remembered.
To the nineteen heroic spirits who, in staying by the
town, took their lives in their own hands, the prospect was
not a hopeful one. The situation was indeed one well cal-
culated to appall the stoutest hearts. Every day the mer-
ciless painted foes of the settlers appeared in sufficient
numbers to utterly annihilate them, yet their courage —
fortified by trusty loaded rifles, their constant com-
panions— never wavered during those terrible days of
peril.
Although hedged about by everpresent personal danger,
they did not neglect their duty to the dead. Four rough
boxes were made, in which the bodies were laid by strange,
yet gentle hands. The boxes were then placed in a wagon
furnished by Charles N. Allen, when the funeral cortege,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 311
the first in the annals of Rapid City marched to the ground
chosen for burial, on the north side of Kapid creek, where,
on the brow of a broad, treeless plateau which sloped gently
down to meet that swiftly-tlowing stream, they were buried
in one common grave. Some dug the grave while others
stood cruard with loaded rifles in hand. John R. Brennan
Samuel Scott, Chas. N. Allen, and Capt. E. Le Gro, bur.ed
the men, the funeral services being conducted by Oscar
Nicholson. Around the grave stood every resident of
Rapid Citv and many of those brave rugged men who did
not hesitale to face the bullets of the Sioux, found it hard
indeed to keep back the rising tears.
Erquhart came to the Black Hills from Denver, Col-
orado, shortly before he met his tragic death. He was
well known in Kansas City, Mo., and Fort Scott, Kansas
in both of which cities he had held positions of honor and
trust Jones came to the Hills from Boulder, Colo., Pat-
terson was from Allegheny City, Penn., and came to the
Hills as captain of a party of gold-seekers from Pittsburg.
Pendleton hailed from one of the New England States,
and was a member of the New England & Black Hills
Mining Company. Patterson and Pendleton came to the
Hills in the same outfit with Lyman Lamb in the early
sorinc of 1876.
Afrer a lapse of twelve years, - long after the blood-
curdling war-whoop of the Sioux had ceased to echo in
and around the Black Hills, and the old trails that had
been freely baptized with the blood of many of our early
pioneers had been abandoned, to be overgrown with grass,
and when peace, security, and prosperity had settled down
upon the lovely city of the valley, with its hundreds o
enterprising, thrifty population, a praiseworthy movement
was set on foot at the suggestion of J. R. Brennan, to
remove the remains of the four murdered pioneers from
their common grave on the school section on the north side,
and accord them a resting-place with the silent majority in
Evergreen Cemetery.
312 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
In pursuance of that object, on Saturday, November
10th, 1888, the bodies were exhumed by undertaker
Behrens and his assistants, in the presence of a number
of those who were present at the burial, twelve years
before. The coflSns were found to be in an excellent state
of preservation, the inscriptions on the lids being plainly
legible. Patterson's coffin was opened and, while the
clothing and bones were intact, the tlesh had resolved itself
into dust. Lyman Lamb recognized the boots as a pair
he had often seen him wear during his lifetime. On the
following day, November 11th, 1888, impressive funeral
services were held at Library Hall, which was filled to its
utmost capacity, — with an overflow of 200 to 300 people.
The Mayor and city council were present, in conformity
with a resolution adopted by that body, and also the local
post of the Grand Army. Many pioneers from other por-
tions of the Hills were in attendance to pay their last sad
tribute to the memory of their murdered comrades. The
citizens of Kapid City turned out en masse, in response to
the Mayor's proclamation, large numbers from the sur-
rounding country being also present.
At the close of a programme of impressive exercises,
consisting of appropriate music, prayer, and touchingly
eloquent addresses by R. B. Hughes and Revs. Dr. Han-
cher and Wilbur, the coffins were borne out, one by one,
by their respective pall-bearers, nearly all of whom were
early pioneers, and placed in wagons arranged in line in
front of the hall. The procession, a full mile in length,
then slowly wound its way to Evergreen Cemetery, where,
in the four graves previously prepared, the remains were
once more consigned to Mother Earth to await the last
trumpet call. Revs. Hancher and Wilbur conducted the
services at the graves, and when the solemn words, " Earth
to earth, ashes to ashes " were recited, John R. Brennan,
Sam'l Scott, Chas. N. Allen, and Capt. E. Le Gro — the
men who buried the bodies in 1876, threw down the first
earth upon their coffins. This time, however, no grim
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 313
sentinels stood around the graves with loaded rifles, to
truard them against a savage foe.
* iS^I t%-:^(^: '■;fe':
On the next clay after the last recorded tragedy two men
from Spring creek reported finding a murdered man on
the road about seven or eight miles from Eapid City. A
314 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
party of ten went out and found the body as reported, which
was buried on the spot where found, and so the carnival of
blood went on. The perils became so great that all work
was suspended in the valleys of Rapid and Spring creeks,
and all settlers within a radius of seven or eight miles
concentrated for safety at Rapid City,
BLOCK HOUSE BUILT.
During the month of August a substantial block house
was built on the square, at the intersection of Rapid and
Fifth streets, which afforded the harassed settlers a refuge
of comparative safety during the remainder of the summer.
The building was a two-story structure of logs, with cupola
to serve for an outlook, the upper story projecting out two
feet on all sides, over the lower story which covered an
area of thirty square feet. All extra provisions belonging
to the citizens were at all times stored in this block house.
That early stronghold of Rapid City was torn down during
the summer of 1879, by Frank P. Moulton, then sheriff
of Pennington County, and the material used for building
a jail.
UPPER RAPID.
In the early part of March, 1876, another town, called
Upper Rapid, was laid out three and one-half miles above
Rapid City, by a party from Bismarck, headed by Cali-
fornia Joe. Arthur Harvey, now of Pactola, Thos. Mad-
den and Wm. Browning, were also among its locators.
The land upon which the town was laid had previously
been located by California Joe while connected with the
Jenny Expedition in the summer of 1875, and is now known
as the Wm. Morris and Albert Brown ranches. Owing to
the persistent hostility of the Indians, the project was
abandoned on August 26th, 1876.
LOCATION OF RANCHES IN RAPID RIVER VALLEY IN 1876.
Those of the early settlers inclined to rural pursuits,
were quick to note the generous agricultural and grazing
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS, 315
possibilities of the bfoad valley of Rapid creek, with its
wealth of waters, and were not slow to avail themselves of
the golden opportunity to secure a choice of the thousands
of rich unoccupied acres lying along the creek from Rapid
City to its mouth. Wide smooth acres they were, too,
without stumps, or very many stones, or scarcely a tree,
save those fringing the margin of the stream, to interfere
with the plow in the furrows, or the reaper on the surface.
It may well be said that those who had the judicious fore-
sight to possess themselves of a ranch on the fertile valley
of Rapid creek, where, with its unsurpassed facilities for
irrigation, crops never fail, have to-day a property more to
be prized than a gold mine.
316 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXIII.
A TRIP FROM CHEYENNE TO DEADWOOD IN 1876.
It was about the time the Sioux Indians, at Red Cloud,
Spotted Tail, and the Missouri River Agencies, were rub-
bing on their war paint, and donning their feathers, pre-
paratory to starting out on the warpath after the scalps of
Black Hills gold adventurers in 1876, just as spring was
slipping from the lap of winter, and while there were yet
banks of snow lying in the bottom of the ravines, and
small patches of "the beautiful" lay scattered here and
there on the northern slopes of the low sand-hills around
the city of Cheyenne, and when the mud lay hub deep in
the low depressions along the military highway leading to
old Fort Laramie, that a small party of immigrants, six in
number, with three two-horse teams, and as many wagons,
left that phenomenally windy city for the Black Hills.
When I say " phenomenally windy " I speak advisedly —
having seen good-sized pebbles lifted from the ground,
carried along and toyed with by a fierce " nor' wester," as
if they were mere grains of sand, cutting the faces of pedes-
trians like keen razors.
One of the wagons of the little train was loaded to the
guards with merchandise for the Deadwood market — in
charge of a man afterwards well known in the Hills as
*' Deaf Thompson: " another with sundry supplies, camp
equipments, etc., of H. N. Gilbert & Son — Sam, than
whom, truer gentleman never rehearsed a story around a
camp-fire. By the way, I saw Sam a few weeks since, and
he does not look a day older than he did twenty-three years
ago when we traveled together, and all shared the same
tent, from Cheyenne to Custer. The third wagon carried
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 317
the household belongings of D. G. Tallent, then on his
third trip to the Black Hills, and it is needless to state that
the writer of this story was part and parcel of said
household goods.
Yes, it is twenty-three years since that day in early
April, when I bade a reluctant adieu to the wind-swept yet
hospitable city of Cheyenne, and, seated in a canvas-cov-
ered wagon, behind a span of lean, ossified horses, that had
been nearly starved to death during a snowstorm on their
way out of the Black Hills two weeks before, resolutely
turned my back once more upon civilization and all that it
implies, to face the discomforts, hardships, and positive
perils of a second journey to the golden " mecca " — a
journey which proved to be full of exciting situations.
There is not much in the way of scenic attractions to
engage the interest of travelers along the road from Chey-
enne to Fort Laramie — as hundreds who have passed over
the route will remember — and it was only the superabun-
dance of mud encountered at intervals, claimins: our undi-
vided attention, that relieved the journey from the oppro-
brium of being called disgustingly monotonous — without
even the spice of danger.
Several ranches were passed, in convenient succession,
where good camping grounds were found, and where
accommodations were furnished for man find beast — bear-
ing the unpoetic though perhaps suggestive appellations of
Pole Creek, Horse Creek, Bear Springs, and Chugwater —
after the creeks upon which they were located. The latter
creek, by the way, is deserving of a more euphonious
name than Chug, as it is really a beautiful mountain stream,
whose valley was already covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass, in pleasing contrast to the dreary stretch through
which we had just passed.
Nothing occurred to materially change the original status
of our little party until it crossed the Platte river, when
our numbers began rapidly to augment and our train to
lengthen, for, by the time we were well outside the mill-
318 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
tary reservation, we had expanded into quite a formidable
expedition of about ninety well-armed men, twenty-five or
thirty wagons, besides a few horsemen. Among the re-
cruits were Frank Thulen, Wm. Cosgrove, Billy Stokes,
Chas. Blackwell, and D. Tom Smith, all well-known early
pioneers. I came within one of being the only woman in
the outfit, and that one was Mrs. Robinson, now living at
Dakota City, on the Cheyenne river.
Although no Indians were encountered on the route,
every man in the party, realizing that there was danger all
along the line, carried his arms upon his shoulder dur-
ing the day, and slept with them by his side during the
night with his cartridge belts under his hard pillow.
Reports came thick and fast of their atrocious deeds near
the foot-hills — brought out by returning freighters, and
the numerous tenderfeet who were leaving the Hills at the
time. On reaching Hat creek these alarming reports re-
ceived full confirmation, and we came face to face with the
perilous situation. Curley, one of the victims of the Col.
Brown tragedy, was lying at the time dangerously wounded,
in a little log hut, at the station, with but small hopes of
recovery. When it became known that a man was lying in a
cabin near by, riddled with Indian bullets, excitement and
consternation spread through the ranks of the expedition,
especially along the rank and file of the two women of the
party. The men, however, buckled on their armor and
prepared for the worst, scarcely daring to hope to escape
a conflict with the redskins. Every precaution being taken
to t^uard against surprise, the train, flanked by a line of
armed men, marched boldly on towards the Hills, preceded
by an advance guard of six men — and thereby hangs a tale.
Now, in view of the tactics peculiar to Indian strategy and
attack, an advance guard per se may be all right and proper,
but, when a body of six armed men persist in marching
in advance of me, either at short or long range, with the
muzzles of their guns pointed over their shoulders at such
an an<yle that, in case of an accidental discharge, their
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 319
loads would penetrate my cranium just at the point where
the gray matter ought to be, it is quite another thing, and
assumes an aspect to which I object on purely humanitarian
grounds. It is by no means conducive to longevity to sit
for hours looking straight into the muzzles of six improved
Winchester rifles, shifting uneasily from this side to that,
in a vain endeavor to get out of range, and yet that was
the exact position I occupied for a while the day we left
Hat Creek stage station. At the first halting place our
wagon, then near the head of the train, was swung out of
line and relegated to the rear, thus causing my vocabulary
of adjectives in denunciation of the dangerous practice
to become exhausted. As our train neared the Hills we
were met every few miles of the way by outward-bound
pilgrims, whose forlorn condition stirred me with deep
compassion. It would be difficult, indeed, to picture a
more pathetic spectacle. Their bright visions of suddenly
acquired wealth had vanished as mist beneath the burning
rays of a tropical sun, and they were returning from the
quest disenchanted, embittered, and many of them desti-
tute. For the mojor part their clothes were badly soiled
and worn ; and some there were, alas ! whose trousers were
literally patched with an old flour sack, with " for family
use " to be seen on the back, and a few with sadly demor-
alized shoes, through which naked protruding toes bade
bold defiance to the untoward elements, and nearly all
breathing bitter maledictions aoainst the Black Hills, as
well as every person who had the temerity to express their
faith in them. Every man of them, however, carried a
o;un, as it behooved him to do. Notwithstandinor these
discouraging incidents along the line, our belief in the
Black Hills remained unshaken, and all believing there was
better luck in store for them, pressed gallantly onward,
scarcely venturing to look back. I, for one, remembering
the example of Lot's wife, was determined to take no
chances on the possibility of being speedily converted into
a " pillar of salt.''
320 THE BLACK HILLS: OR,
On reaching the Cheyenne river stage station our sus-
ceptibilities were still farther harrowed up by seeing two
men engaged in exhuming the bodies of Mr. and Mrs.
Metz, which were being removed to Laramie City, Wyom-
ing, their former home, for permanent burial. One of the
men was a brother of Mrs. Metz.
In passing through Red Canyon, numerous evidences of
the terrible tragedies enacted there only a few days before,
were discovered scattered along the trail, admonishing us
to be on the sharp lookout for ambushed Indians. While
the men manifested no great apprehensions of trouble —
though keeping their guns well in hand, I, on the contrary,
was in momentary expectation of an attack. Furtively I
glanced from side to side of the defile, looking for the
plumed heads and cruel beady eyes of the savages peering
out at us from behind the rocks. How could we know but
at that very time they might be lurking behind the red
crags, or in the narrow ravines, waiting to swoop down
upon us at the opportune time, " like wolves on the fold " —
as they had done twice within ten days before; and, in the
light of a subsequent tragedy, it is believed they were on
our trail even then.
Just as the train emerged from the canyon the climax
came. At a signal from one of the vanguards, the train
came to a dead halt. The men marchino; alono; in the flanks
with guns pointed over their shoulders at the customary
dangerous angle, unshouldered their arms, and, grasping
them tightly in both hands, rushed precipitately to a bank
overlooking a narrow ravine ahead. I thought my worst
fears were realized and my days numbered. All my past
shortcomings and fast-goings stood up before me in ghostly
array, refusing to be laid. Bang! bang! bang! bang!
bang ! went the guns, until it seemed their magazines were
exhausted, when they came back in line, and the train
moved on. When asked for an explanation of their con-
duct, they reported that they had been shooting at a deer !
Naturally enough I felt considerably chagrined, at having
LAST HUNTING GKOUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 321
been caused such unnecessary alarm, but had partial com-
pensation in the knowledf^e, that the poor deer escaped the
terrible fusillade of bullets unscathed. However I breathed
freely again and went on sinning as before.
In due time the train arrived at Custer, soon after which
it was discovered that one of our number was missing. A
small party went back at once, in search of the missing
man, who was found lying dead on the trail, surrounded by
the imprint of numerous moccasined feet, two or three miles
back from Custer. It appeared that he had lingered be-
hind the train as it neared Custer, and was shot down in
his tracks by Indian bullets. Lying by his side was a belt,
severed in twain, which he had worn around his waist, in
which, upon examination, was found concealed about
$3,000.00 in greenbacks, which had escaped the scrutiny
of the murderers and would-be robbers. The body was
conveyed to Custer, where a committee of inquiry made an
investigation of the case. Papers were found, which re-
vealed his identity, his former place of residence, and the
names of relatives, to whom, at their request, his remains
and effects were shipped. The murdered man, whose name
was Leggett, was apparently about fifty years of age, and
evidently a man of high respectability.
It seems obvious, that this band of red murderers had
watched and followed our train, which perhaps they
were not strong enough to attack, and pounced upon the
unwary pilgrim who had lingered behind, like beasts of
prey upon their victim.
I stood again upon the banks of historic French creek;
again I looked at the rocky grandeur of the towering gran-
ite battlements, surrounding Custer's Park, and once more
reveled amid the beauties of the earthly paradise, from
which we had been so uncermoniousl}' expelled only a
short year before. But how strangely metamorphosed had
the scene become meanwhile, to be sure ! The dreamy little
stream, whose shallow waters were wont to gurgle and
murmur peacefully along their pebbly bed, without let or
21
322 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
hindrance, is found diverted from its natural channel into
numerous prosaic ditches and sluice boxes, and its valley
literally turned topsy-turvy, — shorn of all its original
attractiveness.
But this was not all. Where no human habitation had
existed — not even the most primitive kind of a hut, unless
perhaps a deserted Indian tepee — we find a populous city
reared; the pine-covered hill-tops had been invaded ; the
solemn hush that brooded over all had been superseded by
the noise and din of many human activities. Change was
plainly written upon the face of the whole landscape. The
rugged grandeur of the lofty jagged peaks rising up on
every side alone remained unchanged and unchangeable.
Impelled by a longing, in which, however, there was but
little of sentiment, to have one more look at the old stock-
ade and its familiar environments, one bright morning, soon
after the sun had sailed over the naked crest of Calamity
Park, I sallied out and strolled down the valley, musing
while I strolled, upon the mutability of all things earthly
until coming in full view of our old stamping ground.
Then, ascending a low-timbered plateau to the left, I
stood upon the very ground where our first permanent
camp was made on the morning of December 24th, 1874,
when the Black Hills was yet a howling wilderness. It was
a beautiful sightly spot, and as I looked around at each
familiar landmark, I became inspired, in spite of myself,
with something akin to sentiment. I imagine I felt some-
what as did Rob Roy, the Scottish outlaw, on his return to
his native haunts, when he exclaimed, " My feet are on my
native heath and my name is McGregor."
Although having been divested of much of its crowning
beauty — the great pine trees — the topography of the ground
was well remembered, and I found no difiiculty in locating
almost the exact spots where our respective tents had been
pitched. Yes, here is the spot where our gorgeous striped
tent, a thing of beauty and of pride, went up in smoke;
and over there is where the pilfering little donkey turned
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 323
his vicious heels upon a defenseless woman while heroically
endeavoring to rescue from his jaws the "grub" of a
comrade, — thus defeating her noble purpose. That first
donkey in the Bhick Hills, by the way, was a true philoso-
pher, there's no doubt about that. His motto was, " All
things will come to those who watch and wait," — a motto
which he lived up to both in theory and practice during his
connection with the expedition.
Leaving the " old camp ground " I sauntered down to
the stockade on the left bank of French creek, approached
the wide-open gate and looked in. After hesitating a few
moments to consider the propriety or impropriety of entering
the inclosure unbidden, I promptly decided that, inasmuch
as I held a sort of proprietary interest in the property, I
would be justified, from a moral, if not a legal stand-
point, in going boldly in and making myself generally at
home. So, acting on that conclusion, in I went, finding,
however, no one to welcome me back. Two of the cabins
were found tenanted — as evidenced by the padlocked
doors — proof positive that their occupants were not at
home. After a hasty inspection of the inner works of the
fortification, I went the rounds of the vacant cabins, all of
which, to a more or less extent, were fast becoming wrecks,
more the result of careless tenantry than of time.
The little cabin with a wing had altogether outlived its
usefulness, being no longer even habitable; its former
glory had forever departed. The picturesque chimney —
whose exact counterpart I challenge any one to find in the
annals of chimney architecture — built originally of sticks,
stones, mud, and things — had become disintegrated, and
was fast crumbling into a heap of ruins; the dirt roof
in many places let in the snow as well as " the sunshine
and the rain." The little square opening for a window was
still there, but the flour sack curtain, inscribed with the
gaudy legend, was gone. There was the small opening be-
tween the wing and the main edifice, through which our
next door neighbor was wont to look with intense eves of
324 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
dark portent, when he wanted the loan of a kettle in which
to boil his beans and his venison, — and strangely enough
some of the large stone slabs, so artistically laid for a
hearth, had not been disturbed.
I bethought me to look into the little excavation where I
had seen my trunk deposited on the day of our explusion
from the Black Hills, but the trunk was gone, and its
place occupied by a pair of cast-off' rubber boots and other
rubbish. Of course, I wasn't looking for old boots. I
did not care nor dare to linger long in the tumble-down
structure, lest the whole fabric might collapse, all at once,
like the deacon's " one-horse shay," so turning away with
the faintest suggestion of a pang, I left the old stockade
and made my way back to Custer. Heigh-ho ! — after all
there is something sad in turning one's back upon old asso-
ciations, be they never so unpleasant.
The next day — after a stay of two weeks in Custer —
waiting, Micawber-like, for something to " turn up," we
followed the great hegira to Dead wood. En route we
passed through a veritable " deserted village," of about
twenty-five or thirty log cabins — the whilom booming
mining camp at Hill City on Spring creek. Not a human
being was visible, and no smoke curled up from the rude
chimneys, nor other sign to indicate human occupancy.
There was no sign of animal life, save one solitary dog,
that rushed out from the shadow of a distant cabin and
barked dismally at our little train as it passed through —
possibly his master was not far away. On reaching Eliza-
bethtown, on Whitewood creek, we came suddenly upon a
scene of wonderful placer mining activity. Numerous
miners along the gulch were eagerly delving in the earth
in search of the "pay streak;" some merely prospecting
with gold-pans; others testing the gravel through the me-
dium of the primitive rocker ; while a few anxious for
larger and more speedy results had already adopted the more
profitable method of sluicing. On glancing up the gulch
the way appeared to be completely blocked by a chaos of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 325
sluice-boxes, boulders, dumps of gravel, or tailings, etc.,
but, by dint of careful driving and closely hugging the hill
on the right, we finally succeeded in reaching Deadwood —
then in its swaddling clothes — about May 22d, 1876.
Even at that early date in the history of that great min-
ing camp, quite a little village had sprung into existence at
the point where the mineral-impregnated waters of Dead-
wood and Whitewood creeks come together, this collection
being composed of nearly two score of hastily constructed log
cabins interspersed with numerous tents, pitched here and
there without regard to regularity. These cabins, built
along the main street of the town, were designed for tem-
porary use as places of business, where the various kinds
of traffic peculiar to mining camps were already in full
operation, notably, places where eatables and drinkables —
chiefly drinkables ■ — were freely vended to hungry and
thirsty miners, prospectors, freighters, and numerous
trusting tenderfeet who were daily arriving in that promis-
ing camp.
Strange as it may seem, the previous exodus of hundreds
of disgusted gold-seekers had little deterrent effect upon the
great human tide flowing inward to the new camp. The be-
lief in individual luck is so deeply implanted in the heart of
every seeker after gold that each expects himself to succeed
and every other fellow to fail.
A PERSONAL REMINISCENCE.
I have good reason to remember the time and circum-
stances of my first visit to Deadwood, as the following bit
of personal experience will plainly show, — an experience,
indeed, which I would not care to have repeated : —
Upon our arrival at the embryonic city of Deadwood,
the first subject for consideration was, of course, a place
for temporary shelter for ourselves and household belong-
ings. An active search for such a place, as might have
been expected, resulted in failure, as every cabin and tent
was full to overflowincf. What was to be done? The
326 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
aspect of the situation was not pleasant to contemplate, in-
volving, as it did, the alternative of living within the nar-
row limits of a canvas-covered wagon or out in the open,
exposed to the elements and the curious gaze of the motley
crowds, without even the shelter of a tent, our tent having
been cremated on French creek as before stated. Happily,
in this emergency our attention was attracted to a partly
finished cabin, whose roof was covered with boards having
wide interstices between, and about eight or ten square
feet of which was overlaid with shakes (a substitute for
shingles) with no floor save terra Jirma. This skeleton
structure was located on the south side of the main and
only thoroughfare of the new town, in close juxtapo-
sition to — as a matter of fact it was an addition to — a
place where various kinds of stimulating beverages were
daily and nightly exchanged for an equivalent in gold dust.
A very quiet and orderly place of its kind, too, it turned
out to be, and the headquarters of Capt. Jack Crawford,
the famous scout, whose occasional presence about the
establishment threw around it, in my mind, an atmos-
sphere of respectability.
A little below on the opposite side of the narrow street
was another resort, engaged in the same kind of daily and
nightly traffic, with the very suggestive name of " The
Nugget" printed in the most alluring colors above the
door. Notwithstanding; the limitations and local environ-
ments of this unfinished cabin, which, by the kindness and
courtesy of its proprietor, was placed at our disposal for a
week, free of rent, as it appeared to be the only alterna-
tive, our effects were at once transferred to the small area
beneath the shingled portion of the roof, and this is what
happened. The morning of the second day found me,
with the exception of a small boy of ten years, the sole
occupant of this exposed habitation, the result of a stampede
to locate a town-site in the valley of the Spearfish. Yet if
the elements had not gone on a rampage, all might have
been well, but during the day there came up a furious
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 327
CAPT. JACK CKAWFORD, THE POET-SCOUT.
328 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
thunder-storm, such a one as used to send rae flying to
cover in a dark closet or under a smothering feather bed,
when a child.
The day had been excessively warm and sultry, pre-
saging the storm which later came in all its fury. Early
in the afternoon the dark, threatening clouds began to
gather in the west, spreading until the whole visible sky
was overcast; soon the chain-lightning began to play
fantastic freaks among the black clouds hovering over the
mountain crests to the north and west; then in a few
minutes, while I was anxiously watching the grand elec-
trical display, hoping against hope that the threatened
storm might blow over, there came a sudden blinding flash,
followed instantly by a terrific thunderbolt, that shook the
earth and burst open the flood-gates overhead, letting the
rain come down in vast torrents. Flash after flash, peal
after peal from heaven's artillery followed in rapid succes-
sion; the wind rose, blowing in great slanting shafts of
water through the various openings, until bed, clothing, in
fact everything in the inclosure, was drenched. For
once, at least, I was not figuratively but literally in the
swim. In about an hour the storm came to an end — as
all things will — and settled down into a drizzling rain
which continued far into the night. Often, and anxiously,
during that dreadful afternoon I looked heavenward for a
blue rift in the leaden sky, but in vain. Night came on
apace, and such a night! Chilled and wet we crept into
our damp bed, where, after hours of wakefulness, praying
meanwhile, that the clouds might disappear with the night,
1 finally slept the profound sleep of the just. As if in
answer to the secret petition, the following morning
dawned bright and clear ; the sun beamed down with such
cheerful radiance that the misery of the night before was
almost forgotten.
Soon after the rising of the sun I slipped out of my wet
pack, and by a good deal of active skirmishing around the
premises for something combustible I soon had a rousing
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 329
fire, before which quilts, blankets, wearing apparel, etc.,
were hung up to dry, and from which clouds of steam
floated upward to be condensed for the next dovvnfall.
While seated on a dry goods box, enveloped in the ample
folds of a bed quilt, watching the interesting process of
evaporation, and meditating on thegravityof the situation,
I was startled from my reverie by a loud knock at the
door. What was to be done? I was truly in an unpleas-
ant dilemma. Of course, I could not receive visitors
wrapped in a bed quilt, and without the quilt I couldn't —
well, you all know how one feels when inadequately attired.
By a sort of dumb alphabet, I enjoined profound silence
on the part of the small boy — threatening dire punishment
in case it was broken. Another series of raps — louder
than before. In sheer desperation, I called out in a high
falsetto key, " Yes, in a minute! " Throwing aside my
wrap, I hastily and nervously donned a half-dried garment,
which took about five minutes instead of one, and called
out again, "Come in! " Promptly obeying ray mandate
they came in, when through the ascending steam I recog-
nized Capt. C. V. Gardner and H. N. Gilbert — the latter
our traveling companion on the trip into the Hills. How
glad I was to see familiar and friendly faces ! So over-
joyed indeed was I that I came dangerously near commit-
ting the grave indiscretion of falling upon their necks and
embracing them then and there. However, resolutely re-
pressing that inclination, I greeted them with tears of joy
in my eyes and I fear with rather a sickly smile on my lips.
After a hasty survey of the damp premises, and with a
look of commiseration in his eyes, Capt. Gardner inquired:
"What's the matter here? What does all this mean?"
" Oh, it means that we were treated to a generous shower
bath yesterday, free of charge ; that, and nothing more,"
I answered.
" Well, well," said he, " this is ad — downright shame."
Yes, d — stands for downright. "Of course it is," I
assented, " its disgraceful, its dreadful, its worse than a
330 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
battle with the Sioux Indians." I said I thought it merited
the whole category of d — s.
*' This will never do," said the Captain, •' You must get
out of this place as soon as possible." Well, in less than
the stipulated time, we vacated the place and moved into
a small log cabin at the base of the hill on Williams street,
where we remained during the summer of 1876.
Although our temporary abode on Main street furnished
but small physical comfort, it had its advantage in that it
afforded an excellent point of vantage, from which to see
Deadwood in all its early picturesqueness. To be sure, the
great rush was not yet at its flood, yet there was already
enough excitement to make things exceedingly lively in
the big mining camp, and the rush and push of hustling up
buildings on every side; the numerous emigrant wagons,
and pack animals loaded with blankets, mining tools, etc.,
that crowded the narrow thoroughfare; and the hundreds
of eager jostling fortune-hunters, rushing up and down the
street, and in and out between the wagons, contributed no
end of amusing diversion, in all of which, however, there
was a world of pathos, — in view of the almost certainty,
that at least nine-tenths of the expectant throng were
doomed to crushing disappointment.
Incidentally, too. Main street was the theater of an occa-
sional farce-comedy, which added spice and variety to the
scene, to one of which I was an unvoluntary, though inter-
ested witness. One day while at my point of observation,
I saw a coatless, hatless, unkempt, red-headed man — with
only one suspender — well, I sized him up as a " whacker," —
rush headlong out of the " Nugget " across the way, closely
followed by a man of sanguinary aspect, holding a six-
shooter in his right hand, and hurling all sorts of billings-
gate after the fleeing offender. The red-headed man
dodged behind a wagon that providentially stood near by;
thus escaping immediate danger. The pursued and the
pursuer played a game of hide-and-go-seek around the
wagon for several minutes, when some bystanders inter-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
331
fered and put an end to the exhibition. This is only one
of many similar exhibitions witnessed in 1876, but one is
plenty.
In casting about here and there up and down the nar-
row auriferous gulches from Gayville to Elizabethtown
and below, it was found that every square yard of pay-
gravel, from rim to rim, along the entire length of the
gulch, was already claimed and staked off by the wide-awake
miners, who metaphorically took time by the forelock, and
hastened to the new discovery at the first report, thus
securing claims from which many reaped fortunes — while
the unlucky ones who dawdled away two weeks of precious
time waiting for something to " turn up " lost a golden
opportunity.
'* Of all sad words of tongue or pen
The saddest are these, It might have been."
332 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXIY.
PLA.CER MINING IN' DEADWOOD GULCH IN 1876.
As soon as the iilluring notes of the golden tocsin pro-
claiming the tidings of rich auriferous placer discoveries
in the northern Hills, sounded far and wide, and echoed
through the remote valleys and gulches of the Black Hills,
the news created a furore, such as had not, perhaps, been
exceeded since the exciting days of '49. Deadvvood then,
instead of Custer, became the " Mecca " of gold-hunters
from all parts of the land, Montana, Colorado, and even
the great gold State of California, contributing their quota
to swell the human tide.
All trails through the Hills, lined with pack outfits
galore, led to the new diggings in the north. French,
Spring, Rapid, and Castle creeks and their tributaries,
where, prior to this time, placer mining had been carried on
with a fair degree of success, became practically deserted.
The nuggets of Bear Gulch and " Nigger Hill," — in the
light of the new discovery, lost their power to dazzle and
were temporarily abandoned. And what was the result?
Unfortunately, the new diggings were not so extensive as
they were rich, consequently hundreds, after a gallant but
vain scramble to secure a plum from the plump golden pie,
returned to their abandoned claims, presumably well satis-
fied with making from five to ten dollars per day to the
man.
Moral: Let well enough alone.
Soon every claim worth having above Gayville, on Dead-
wood and tributary gulches, down nearly to Crook City,
on Whitewood gulch, was located and staked, cleared of
its dead timber and dense undergrowth, ready for opera-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
333
tion. From April, through the summer and fall of 1876,
the work of uncovering and washing out the golden prod-
uct of Deadwood, Whitewood, Gold Run, Black Tail, and
Bob-Tail gulches was vigorously prosecuted, from which
vast quantities of gold-dust were taken — the aggregate
NO. 4, ABOVE DISCOVERY, ON DEADWOOD.
production from these gulches during the year reaching up
into the hundreds of thousands of dollars.
It has been impossible to ascertain — as a matter of fact
no one has ever known — even approximately the amount
taken from these rich placer deposits, and a conjecture
would be hazardous, as it might prove very wide of the
334 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
mark. However, it has been variously estimated, by intel-
ligent, practical miners and close observers of placer
mining operations of that day, that from $3,000,000 to
$4,000,000 in gold-dust were sluiced from the aforesaid
gulches during the years 1876-7, these estimates being
based upon the daily clean-ups of certain individual claims.
It is stated by those who were in a position to judge that
daily clean-ups of from one to two thousand dollars from
several claims on Deadwood and a few on Whitewood gulch
was no uncommon occurrence, from which it is safe to con-
clude that the above estimates of the aggregate product
of those gulches is not excessive.
That the stories told of those wonderful daily clean-ups
were not fairy tales nor the result of an exuberant fancy,
but a glittering reality, I am quite prepared to believe, for
have not mine eyes often in those days feasted on the
great piles of yellow gold mixed with a little black sand,
left in the miners' gold-pans after the lighter material was
washed off? And did I not as often break the divine
mandate written by the finger of God on the tables of
stone on the mount: "Thou shalt not covet thy neigh-
bor's goods?" I stand self-condemned.
Among the large producing claims on Deadwood gulch
were No. 2, operated by Wheeler brothers; Nos. 4 and 5
below Discovery, owned by Chisholm brothers and sold
to Robert Neill for $2,200 after a large fortune had been
realized from the claims ; Nos. 14 and 15 below, owned by
Robert Kenyon; " Discovery Claim," purchased by John
Hildebrand from the original locator; No. 1 below, located
by Ed. Murphy; No. 9 below, located by Jack McAleer,
and numerous others, perhaps equally productive. The
largest producing claim on Whitewood gulch was what
was known as the Bostwick mines, below Elizabethtown.
Active sluicing operations in those gulches, which began
about the middle of April, were at first considerably
retarded by the lack of lumber for the construction of
sluice boxes, which, in the absence of sawmills, had to be
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
335
manufactured by hand, by the slow and tedious method
of what is called whipsawing. This handicap, however,
was soon removed by the establishment of sawmills, three
of which were, early in June, in full operation and produc-
ing lumber at the rate of 32,000 feet per day — Judge E. G.
\
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CABIN ON CLAIM NO. 2, DEADWOOD GULCH.
Dudley's mill, in East Deadwood, turning out about 12,000
feet per day, Street & Thompson's and Boughton &
Berry's mills, located below Montana, producing 10,000
feet per day each. Boughton & Berry's mill was later
removed to South Deadwood.
336 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
" PLACER MINING PROCESSES."
The attention of prospectors on their arrival in a new
gold field is at once directed to its auriferous placer deposits :
first, because they are a pretty certain index of the richness
of the gold-bearing ledges, from which by natural processes
they have been liberated ; second, because in ordinary
operations little capital save that of willing hands and stout
arms is needed to remove them from their hiding-places,
and by various interesting methods convert them into com-
mercial values. These deposits are found by digging down
to the floor or bedrock of the gulch, to which, by virtue of
its specific gravity, the gold has sifted, or in bars of gold-
laden gravel along the courses of streams, and, strangely
enough, in some portions of the Black Hills — notably
along the borders of Castle creek — placer gold and wash
gravel have been found on the tops of high hills. How
they came there, I shall not undertake to explain, not being
a geologist.
Some geologists would say, perhaps, that they were car-
ried or pushed along with the rock and debris by the early
glaciers on their long, slow journey down from the regions
of perpetual ice, and left high and dry upon our hill-tops;
others might advance some other occult theory. However,
as it is not the province of history to deal in theories, but
in facts, let it suflSce to say that the fact remains as above
stated, which goes to show that the oft-repeated aphorism
that gold is where you find it, is peculiarly applicable to
the Black Hills.
After the deposit has been discovered and tested through
the medium of the pick, shovel, and gold-pan, the first
great requisite for sluicing — which is the method that has
been most extensively employed in the Black Hills — is an
ample supply of water, without which the richest deposits
are comparatively valueless; then comes the construction
of a ditch for carrying the necessary supply of water from
some point above to the place where it is turned into the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 337
sluice. Sometimes a combination of claim owners unite to
build the ditch, the water to be used in common, in which
case gates are made through which to divert the water
from the main canal or ditch to the head of each individual
claim ; sometimes the water is leased to other miners who
have no interest in the enterprise.
In the meantime sluices have been constructed, the sluice
consisting of several oblong, open boxes, eighteen inches
high and about two feet wide, at the bottom of which are
nailed cleats (called riffles) at short intervals to catch the
gold, and at the end of the series of boxes a piece of cloth,
called an apron, is sometimes attached to save the particles
that are washed over the riffles. A little quicksilver is
then frequently poured into the boxes above the riffles to
attract the gold, when the work of sluicing is ready to
begin. The gate is then opened and the water glides
through a channel dug for the purpose into the sluice; at
first it goes rippling musically over the riffles, then dashes
gaily down the slightly inclined plane, and out at the
opposite end of the sluice, where it is again turned into
the main ditch to be utilized on the claim below, or into
the channel of the stream, as the case may be.
. A man is stationed at the head of the sluice to shovel
the gravel from the dump into the sluice box ; another man
armed with a many-tined fork is placed at the lower end of
the sluice to remove the pebbles and gravel that are washed
down, while a third or middle man, also provided with a
fork, is employed in removing obstacles from the boxes all
along the line. Every night, or at longer intervals, as
may seem necessary, there is had what is called a clean-up.
The water is turned off, and the accumulation of gold,
black sand, and gravel is carefully scraped from the riffles
and the apron at the lower extremity of the sluice into a
gold pan, and then taken to a stream of water near by,
where the gravel and sand for the most part are washed off.
This operation requires a good deal of skill and dexterity,
and not everyone can do it successfully — the particles
22
338 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
of gold being liable to float out with the grosser substances,
unless saved by the dexterous hand of an expert. All this
done, behold ! as a result, $2,000 of gold dust, gold scales,,
and often gold nuggets in the pan. This is then taken to
the miner's cabin and divested of all dross, when it is ready
for commercial exchange.
Where the water supply is inadequate for sluicing pur-
poses, the old method of washing out the gold by " rock-
ing " is resorted to. The rocker, though an ancient ap-
pliance for washing out gold, is really a very ingenious
contrivance, and deserves to occupy a conspicuous niche in
placer mining history as well as a warm place in the
affections of placer miners. It has been the accommo-
dating agent through which many a stranded miner has
secured a "grub stake" when away from his base of
supplies. This time-honored afiair, which consists of a box
mounted on a pair of rockers, is operated on the principle
of a child's cradle. A succession of sieves, graduating
in texture, are arranged on a slight incline in the box —
on the bottom of which are nailed tiny riffles which catch
the gold that makes its way through the meshes of the
sieves. Two men are required to operate a rocker — one
shovels the gravel in at the top, the other dips up the
water with a long-handled dipper and pours it on the
gravel with his right hand, while with his left he rocks his
cradle — not to a lullaby song, but to the music of the
water as it percolates through the gravel, from sieve to
sieve, and flows out through a spout at the lower end of the
incline.
The rocker is a portable concern, and can be easily
loaded onto a wheel-barrow and transported from place to
place, wherever there chances to be a pool of water, and
pay gravel to operate upon. This process was extensively
used in washing out the wonderfully rich deposits of
Kockerville, where to-day good wages are made through
the medium of the despised rocker.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 339
HYDRAULIC PLACER MINES.
Another method somewhat similar to ordinary sluicing,
but on a far more extensive scale, that has been employed
to some extent in the Black Hills, is the hydraulic pro-
cess. Ill hydraulic mining, as in sluicing, the first requisite
is, of course, the auriferous deposits to be operated upon.
These are found as before stated, but the high bar deposit
will be taken to illustrate the modus operandi. As these
bars are not of a solid rock formation, but accretions of
earth, gravel and boulders — mixed with the gold or other
mineral that has been liberated, by the action of mountain
torrents, and other agencies from veins or ledges above,
and washed down and distributed in the soil of the valley
or deposited in bars, they are easily broken and disinte-
grated, when exposed to the action of a sufficient head of
water. Then the mining ditches must be built.
These waterways are made by diverting the streams from
their natural channels, at some point high enough above
the mines to afford the requisite fall, and conveying it by
ditch and flume, sometimes many miles along the hill-sides ;
around or through jutting rocks and across deep ravines,
where it is supported by trestle work, to the place where
the water is to be utilized. The water is then conducted
from the main reservoir or flume through a pipe which
connects at the lower end with a strong wooden or cast-
iron box, provided with several openings to which are
attached smaller pipes, these being again connected with
flexible rubber or canvas hose, which can be turned in any
direction, terminating in nozzles with orifices from one and
a half to three inches in diameter. A wide sluice is then
made, which carries off the loosened material from the
mine or bar operated upon, into sluice-boxes provided
with riffles after the method of ordinary sluicing.
Men are stationed at the nozzle to manipulate the hose,
and a very uncomfortable position it seems from my point
of view, upon the one and only occasion on which I wit-
340 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
iiessed the process, then the floodgate, which is usually
many miles above, is opened, and the water under a power-
ful pressure rushes down through ditch, flume, and pipe,
with an ever-increasing momentum into the box or bulk-
head, then through the distributing pipes into the hose,
and out at the orifices with the tremendous force of a bat-
tering ram. Continuous streams of water are directed
through the nozzles at the base of the bar, undermining it,
thus causing the overhanging mass to fall to the base, where
by the powerful action of the water it is broken apart and
washed down into the sluice; great boulders weighing tons
are swept down the slope and toyed with as if they were
tiny pebbles. The water flows away down the slope, leav-
ing the larger boulders and the coarser gold on bed-rock,
while the finer gold is carried along with the earth and
gravel through the sluice boxes, where it is caught in the
rifties. It goes without saying that the clean-ups must be
something vast, if the deposits are rich, when the amount
of material that passes through the sluices is taken into
consideration.
In hydraulic mining it would seem to be essential that
the men employed should possess wonderful muscle, as
well as feel an utter indiS'erence to water and its effects;
those stationed along the line to remove obstructions having
frequently to lift and throw aside heavy boulders, and are
standing or wading around from morning till night in water
knee-deep; while the men at the nozzles are in about the
condition of the traditional drowning rat, completely
drenched by the sheets of spray that are thrown back by
the fierce contact of the water with the bank against which
it is delivered. To the student of hydrodynamics the
whole process from the head of the flume to the foot of the
sluices — and the clean-up may as well be included — is one
of exceeding interest. To the observer, it presents fea-
tures thai are more than interesting, they are grandly
picturesque.
The most extensive hydraulic enterprise projected in the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 341
Black Hills was the great Rockerville flume for conducting
the waters of Spring creek to the rich, dry placer beds at
Rockerville. The flume, which was commenced in 1878,
was an immense wooden structure, running from the dam
at a point two miles above Sheridan, along a tortuous
route, on the side of steep mountains, around abrupt
curves, over deep gorges, on lofty trestles to Rockerville,
a distance of seventeen miles. It was a gigantic undertak-
ing— requiring the use of hundreds of thousands of feet
of lumber and the employment of many men, at a cost of
from $250,000 to $300,000.
The operations by this process on the Rockerville gulch
deposits continued about five years, resulting in the pro-
duction of over a half million of dollars in gold.
Hydraulic flumes were also constructed on Rapid creek,
near Pactola, by the Estella Del Norte Company at an
immense expense, where operations were carried on for a
time. Also the Hydraulic Gold Mining Company, on Battle
creek, all of which will be referred to farther on.
Placer mining in the Black Hills — as a great mining
industry — has long since been abandoned : not because
these deposits have been exhausted, by any means. There
are to-day, it is believed by miners of judgment and ex-
perience, millions of dollars of gold lying buried down
deep on the water-washed bed-rock of Spring, Rapid, and
Castle creeks, and perhaps other streams, awaiting cap-
ital, for the employment of skilled engineers and effective
mechanical appliances for exhausting the surplus water on
the beds of those streams. That such an enterprise will
some day be undertaken, it is believed.
EARLY QUARTZ MINING IN THE BLACK HILLS.
In the annals of nearly all mining camps, it is found
that their stability and permanency have depended mostly
upon the quartz mines. It is shown that not the easy
placers, that cost little to operate, and moreover soon be-
come exhausted, but the capital employed and expended
342 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
in the development and equipment of quartz properties,
with engines, steam drills, hoisting plants, mills, and other
expensive machinery, and the employment of skilled en-
gineers to set them in motion and operate them, and expert
miners to extract the ore from the mine in the most judi-
cious manner for its proper development, — are what build
up and maintain vitality in a mining camp; hence in a new
camp the chief interest soon centers in its quartz mines, and
the history of the great mining camp of Deadwood is no
exception to the general rule.
Early in 1876 after the short period of delirious excite-
ment, consequent upon the rich placer discoveries, had given
place to calm consideration and sober judgment, the atten-
tion of prospectors was directed towards the quartz resources
of the camp and soon the hills above the gold-laden gulch
were being vigorously exploited — by men who knew gold-
bearing rock when they saw it — for traces of the ledges
whence the marvelous deposits came. "Float" and
" croppings " galore were carried daily to the tents and
cabins of prospectors, in bags flung over their shoulders,
for testing purposes. Then followed what may appropri-
ately be termed the " mortar and pestle " era, during which
the music of numberless of the tiny one-stamp mills was
heard from every quarter of the big camp, morning, noon,
and night ; and one was confronted on everv hand, on the
street corners, in grocery stores, hotels, and saloons, where
men the most did congregate, by the amusing spectacle of
men submitting a small piece of innocent rock to the
most severe scrutiny, through a magnifying glass, to dis-
cover whether it was guilty or innocent of carrying free
gold.
A change then came over the silent hills, where erstwhile
were heard only the howling of the timber wolf, the solemn
hooting of the owl, and kindred sounds, and solitude
reigned there nevermore. The clinking of picks and
shovels, the creaking of many windlasses, and the roar of
dynamite, that tore the rocks asunder, proclaimed the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
343
beginning of quartz mining in what was afterwards known
throughout the raining world as the great " gold belt " of
the Black Hills.
Durinty the year 1876 there were more than 150 quartz
mines located and in process of rapid development, within
a radius of five miles of Dead wood. Among the earliest
discoveries were the Golden Terry on Bob Tail, familiarly
known as the Frenchman's Mine, and reputed to be the
first discovered quartz mine in the " belt," the Alpha lode,
discovered on the 12th of May, 1876, by Messrs. Wol-
sey, Jones & Rowland, upon which was operated the first
stamp mill in the Black Hills; the Homestake, discovered
by Emanuel brothers, Alf. Engh, and others; the Hidden
Treasure on Spring gulch, discovered by Thos. O'Neal on
the 13th of May, 1876, upon which was operated the first
quartz mill in the Black Hills; the Chief of the Hills on
Black Tail, located by Jack Hunter and California Joe;
the Old Abe, discovered by M. Cavanaugh; the Golden
Star, located by Smoky Jones ; and others located at nearly
the same time, or a little later.
The Golden Terry, the Homestake, the Old Abe and the
Golden Star have long since lost their identity, having
been absorbed with other mines by the capital of the great
Homestake Company, that has for the past nineteen years
been paying dividends from the product of those early
discoveries. Strange, isn't it, and sad, too, when you come
to think of it, that the toiling, sweating, powder-begrimed
miner rarely reaps the full fruition of his discovery.
The early explorations for gold-bearing quartz were, how-
ever, by no means confined to the northern Hills. At a
very early date in 1876, some promising discoveries were
made among the hills bordering on French creek, and other
portions of the southern and central Hills.
A trip through the valleys and gulches of the Black
Hills to-day will disclose the fact that a vast deal of pros-
pecting was done during the early years of their history,
for both placer and quartz; deserted shafts, with dumps
344 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
of gravel and rock, broken and decaying windlasses, and
ore buckets lying near by ; abandoned tunnels, in which
sometimes can be found an old pick and shovel corroded
with the rust of years, but more frequently filled up with
the fallen debris; prospect holes innumerable, and tumble-
down log cabins may be seen wherever you go. Nearly
every hillside and gulch throughout the length and breadth
of the fair domain tell a pathetic story of depleted purses,
wasted energies, disappointed hopes, and days, months,
yea, sometimes years, of unrewarded toil. Occasionally
a piece of expensive machinery will be found going to
certain wreck and ruin. Any one who has ever traveled
over the road from Rochford to Hill City will perchance
have noticed an old wheel lying on the sands on one of
the banks of Castle creek, below Ca^^tleton, where it has
lain for years, a solemn warning to passing miners. That
old decaying wheel is the sole representative of a capital
of $10,000 in cold cash, expended by H. C. Smith, former
County Commissioner of Pennington County, in a futile
attempt to exhaust the water from the gold-laden bed-rock
of the valley of that stream.
THE PECULIARITIES OF MINERS.
Much has been said and more written of the peculiar
characteristics of miners as distinct from all other classes
of the genus homo that is believed to be erroneous and
exaggerated. Their vernacular, their eccentricities, and
their personnel have been prolific themes for the pen of
the humorist and the caricaturist, ever since the days of
"Roaring Camp" and "Poker Flats." The most san-
guinary and indefensible murder of the Queen's English
has been laid at their doors, and they have been portrayed
in garbs that would bring a broad smile to even the face
of a stone wall. All this has been told, and more.
Now, perhaps it is not right to aim a deadly blow at a
cherished tradition, and try to undermine a fixed belief,
but, in justice to the mining fraternity, I want to express^
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 345
the conviction that the popular conception of miners, taking
the average Blaci^ Hills miner as a type, comes about as
near to the truth as that of the traditional Yankee, who
sometimes appears on the comedy stage with striped
trousers, swallow-tail coat — mostly tail, — high stand-up
collar, and a nasal twang and pronunciation, the like of
which was never heard by mortal man since the building
of the tower of Babel.
Little of what has been said and written about miners is
applicable to Black Hills miners, who are an intelligent,
and, in many cases, a well-educated class of men. Of
course, in a spirit of goodfellowship, they sometimes ad-
dress each other as " pard," and most wear overalls and
rubber boots, as the nature of their vocation requires, but
who ever heard of a Black Hills miner talking like this: —
♦♦ Look er-har, boys, I'm er goin' ercross ter der s'loon
an' ax Bill ter chalk me down fer der drinks ferder crowd.
Come er long, boys."
" All right, pard, we've bin kin' er waitin' for yer ter
ax us."
346 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XXY.
DEADWOOD IN 1876.
In amon.o; the rugo-ed northern hills, at an altitude of
over 4,500 feet above the level of the sea, is situated the
city bearing the very unique name of Deadwood, so named
because of the chaos of fallen dead timbers which once cov-
ered the site of its location. Although the name is a good
enough one, and was honestly and appropriately bestowed,
there are those who think that the great commercial metrop-
olis of the Black Hills should have been honored with a
more euphonious appellation. As a matter of fact, however,
in the fitness of things, it could not very well have been
called by any other name. But what's in a name, and, in-
deed, what cared its sponsors what the name of the infant
city, when eveiy square foot of its foundation was to yield
to them a rich tribute of shining gold? At any rate,
Deadwood it was named, and inasmuch as its citizens are
satisfied to accept matters as they found them, Deadwood
it shall remain.
The site of the original Deadwood was located on the
26th of April, 1876, by Craven Lee, Isaac Brown, J. J.
Williams, and others, below the junction of Deadwood and
Whitewood creeks, and laid out down the narrow valley of
the latter stream, close under the shadow of Forest Hill,
and a more picturesque site could hardly have been chosen.
The contracted valley, flanked on one side by Forest
Hill, which was then clothed with evergreen trees from
base to summit, on the other by rugged hills, above which
rise the hoary crests of White Rocks, some 2,000 feet
above the level of their base, was barely wide enough
at points for the laying out of one narrow street. The
site was laid out evidently to conform with the topogra-
LAST BUSTING GROUND Of THE DAKOTAHS.
347
„hy of the valley, without regard to the points of the
!l: "L. the main street, however, trending nearly north
compass, the
^YHITE KOCKS OYEULOOKING DEADWOOD.
.od south, and crossed at right a.gles by Lee, Gold, and
Wall streets.
348 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
When the howling waste of dead timbers and underbrush
was removed from the ground, the work of building at
once began. The first structure erected on the platted site
was a small log cabin, built by Lee & Brown, at the north-
west corner of Main and Gold streets, on part of the
ground now occupied by the Nye Block. With the push
and energy characteristic of our early pioneers, Lee &
Brown had their cabin built and ready for occupancy on
the 30th of April, just four days after the site was laid
out. Before the laying of the town-site there had been
three other cabins built on the ground, the first by J. J.
Williams, on ground afterwards occupied by J. Goldberg's
store, the second by John Shive, and the third by W. H.
Smith.
The first frame structure erected in Deadwood was built
by C. V. Gardner & Co., in June, 1876, on the lot adjoin-
ing the one occupied by Lee & Brown. In this frame
building Gardner & Co. opened the first completely
equipped grocery store in Deadwood. The second is said
to have been opened by Furnam & Brown, followed very
closely by Browning & Wringrose.
Prior to the opening of these houses, a number of others,
among; whom were Judge W. L. Kuvkendall and Cuthbert-
son & Young, had carried on a sort of curbstone grocery
and provision traflSc with freighters, of whom they purchased
only in quantities suflacient to meet the existing demand.
The first drug store was established by Julius Deetkin on
the east side of Main street, below Lee, in June, 1876. A
little later Mr. Deetkin became associated with E. C. Bent,,
under the firm name of Bent & Deetkin.
The first hotel erected was Gen. Custer House, built
by John Scollard, now of Sturgis, on the northeast
corner of Main and Lee streets, in June, 1876. This
building, a two-story frame structure, was opened to the
public as a hostelry in July, 1876, by R. R. Marsh, who
retired from the business in December following, and was
succeeded by J. J. Sutherland and John Amerman.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAUS.
349
But while the Gen. Custer Hou^se was the first completed
it was not the first opened for business. The Grand Cen-
tral was built a little later in June of that year, on the
west or north side, whichever it may be called — of Main
street, and was opened during the same month, first as a
restaurant, by C. H. Wagner. Later the building was
raised an additional story, after which it was conducted as
a regular hotel.
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DEADWOOD IN 1876.
The first hardware store in Dead wood, and perhaps in
the Black Hills, was opened by Boughton & Berry in a
building which stood on the ground afterwards occupied
by Star & Bullock's hardware store on the east side of
Main street.
The first meat shop was opened by J. Shoudy in the
spring of 1876 ; and the first regular restaurant, called the
IXL, was opened by J. Vandaniker & McGavock.
The first saddlery and harness shop was opened during
the summer of 1876, by J. M. Woods, on the east side of
350 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Main street, below Wall, and the first livery barn was estab
lished during the same summer by Clark & Morill, who also
conducted an auction and commission business in connec-
tion with the livery. The first jewelry store was opened by
M. N. Gillette.
It is claimed that Judge Miller was the first law practi-
tioner in Deadwood, and Dr. A. W. McKinney the first local
physician.
The first school opened in Deadwood was a private
school taught by Wm. Commode, during the autumn of
1876. The term was taught in a small log cabin that stood
on or near the ground now occupied by the Wentworth
Hotel. In November, 1876, a second bank was established
by Miller & McPherson, in connection with other lines of
business.
Business enterprises followed each other in such bewil-
deringly rapid succession in 1876, that it is indeed difficult
to state positively which was first in the race. Each one
speedily reared his structure according to his individual
fancy or convenience - — with utter disregard to regularity —
and opened up his wares for traffic. In four months from
the day the first smoke curled up from the rude chimney of
Lee & Brown's log cabin, both sides of Main street were
crowded with structures of various sizes, shapes, and quali-
ties— log cabins, frame buildings, and tents, in one curi-
ous medley bent. Even the cross streets, in defiance of
the rules and regulations adopted by the town organization^
were appropriated for building and business purposes.
The followinof are the names of some of the firms con-
ducting business in Deadwood during the initial year of its
history : Baer & McKinnis, Janson & Bliss, and Star 8b
Bullock (hardware) ; J. M. Woods (banker); Miller & Mc-
Pherson (bankers) ; D. Hozeman, Browning & Wringrose,
Garrison & Dennee (grocers) ; Bent & Deetkin (druggists) ;
Matheieson & Goldberg, Gardner & Brown, Robinson &
Ross (grocers); Garlick Bros, (druggists); A. T. Henzie
(jeweler); Cuthbertson & Young, W. L. Kuykendall
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 351
(commission) ; Wm. Burton, Vanduniker & McGavock
(restaurants); Amerman & Sutherland (hotel); C. H.
Wagner (hotel); Matkin & Co. (bakers); Hildebrand &
Hardiog, Phillips & Biddle, Gaston & Shankland, Nye &
Co., Samuel Soyster, Knovvles & Marshmand, Wm. Le De
Moss; and many others.
During that brief period about 7,000 were added to the
population of Deadwood, among whom were many reck-
less adventurers, who scarcely knew for what they came —
without other purpose than the possible chance of fleecing
unwary and trusting pilgrims. Hotels and other places of
entertainment, though numerous, were crowded to over-
flowing, beds in which to sleep were at a high premium
and a chair on which to sit was regarded as a great luxury.
As a matter of fact, many had not the price to advance
for either, and were forced to slumber in the shadow of the
buildings or standing up in saloons and gambling houses.
In the train of the legitimate prospector, came the men
of business and professional men — the former with their
goods, merchandise, fixtures, etc., and in their wake fol-
lowed the gamblers and all kinds of crooks and sharps^
and with them those fixed facts in the moral or immoral
economy of nearly all mining camps and municipalities,
those human leeches that remorselessly feed upon the earn-
ings of weak men — the courtesan. By the latter part of
August, Deadwood had become a vast seething cauldron
of restless humanity, composed of virtue and vice in about
equal ratios, engaged each in his own way in the mighty
struggle for gold.
Nearly all branches of business were represented in
Deadwood in 1876, and the trade along all lines was some-
thing immense. Every business man, no matter in what
kind of traflBc engaged, made money beyond his most san-
guine expectations. Hotels and other eating places which
fed hundreds every day were veritable gold mines, and the
saloons, of which there were scores, grew rich on the reck-
less expenditures of those who dug for gold.
352 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Profits were large and the demand unlimited; wages
were high and gold plentiful. Every miner carried his
little buckskin sack, filled with gold dust, which he squan-
dered right and left with reckless prodigality and abandon.
An instance of which I chanced to be a witness is now re-
called, when a high-stepping, half-seas-over miner, scat-
tered the contents of his well-filled gold sack in the middle
of Main street, to see the boys and impecunious men
scramble for the shining particles. Let it be understood,
however, that all miners were not thus reckless and prodi-
gal of their gold, only the major part of them. As gold
dust, whose commercial value was then rated at from
eighteen to twenty dollars per ounce, was the almost sole
medium of exchange, a pair of gold scales and a blower
were indispensable parts of the equipment of every business
place.
En-passant, the most unique and perhaps the most profit-
able load of merchandise brought to Deadvvood in 1876,
was a consignment of cats. While there were plenty of wild
cats among the jungles of the Hills in those days, there
were very few of the domestic variety, so taking advantage
of the existing dearth, some speculative genius in the East
conceived the happy idea of shipping a wagon load of the
Eastern surplus to the Black Hills and convert it into gold
dust. The load, which was arranged into compartments
one above the other, comprised cuts of almost every shade
and hue, Maltese, black, white, yellow, gray, and spotted.
The average man in Deadwood in 1876 would pay any
reasonable price for a " family cat " to keep fresh in his
memory "the girl he left behind him," and consequently
there was quite an active competition around the wagon in
the street as to the privilege of first choice. The Maltese
being the prime favorite, commanding the highest price,
the maximum being $10.00 in gold dust, and $5.00 the
minimum.
Ovving: to the difficultv and cost, as well as the extreme
danger of transportation, provisions of all kinds commanded
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
353
exorbitant prices, tioiir, at times of great scarcity, having
sold as high as $00.00 per 100 pounds, and other staple
witcher's freight train on the streets of deadwood in 1876.
articles at proportionate prices. To offset the prevailing
high prices of goods, however, wage-earners, both miners
and skilled mechanics, received from five to seven dollars
23
354 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
per day's work, and mine owners in many cases were
making a small fortune every day. Idlers and hangers-on,
of whom there were many, of course lived a very precarious
existence, oftentimes being forced to go hungry.
SUNDAY IN DEADWOOD DURING PIONEER DAYS.
There was no austerity nor solemnity about Sunday in
Deadwood during the pioneer days. The current of traffic,
like time and tide, flowed on seven days of every week,
and Sunday was the maddest business day of all. It was
not that its business men had lost their reckoning of the
days of the week that Sunday was the busiest of the seven,
but because that was the day on which the hundreds of
miners and prospectors in the surrounding camps and
gulches threw down their picks and shovels and came to
Deadwood to replenish their stores of supplies, get their
mail, have a jolly good time, and spend their week's earn-
ings. Naturally the business men, not having braved the
dangers of a journey into the Black Hills for their health,
were nothing loth to exchange their goods and merchandise
and otherwise cater to their pleasures for gold dust, hence
Deadwood on Sunday presented a scene of extraordinary
business activity and excitement, and one not easily
forgotten.
Conjure up in your minds one long, rather narrow street,
which was practically all there was of Deadwood in the
summer of 1876, deeply lined on both sides from one
extreme to the other with a dense, dark mass of surging,
pushing, struggling, male humanity, every business place
open and traffic in full blast. Imagine the arrival upon the
scene of several freight trains, heavily laden with merchan-
dise, and the bustle and confusion of unloading the same at
the doors of the many hustling dealers along the crowded
street. Imagine you hear the oaths of the pitiless drivers
accompanied by the sharp crack of their long, cruel lashes,
the plaintive "mooing" of the tired, panting cattle, and
the loud, resonant braying of many mules, and above all
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 355
the incessant rasping of numerous saws and the re-
sounding blows of many hammers, and you have a faint
mental reproduction of Sunday in Deadwood during the
pioneer days, which was but an extreme type of every
other day of the week.
DEADWOOD BY LAMPLIGHT.
Picturesque and exciting as was the exterior aspect of
Deadwood during the day, it presented another even more
novel and striking view, which the casual observer could
gain only by the rays of numerous kerosene lamps.
By elbowing your way down the street through a jostling
crowd of roystering, rollicking miners, noisy " whackers,"
untutored tenderfeet, and some more kinds of people, when
the shades of evening prevailed and the lamps were lighted,
you could have had a glimpse of the true inwardness of Dead-
wood during the early period. You would have seen every
store, every saloon and gambling resort, all places of amuse-
ment, of questionable propriety, bright and alluringly
illuminated by many coal oil lamps. Execrable music,
produced from antiquated pianos and cracked violins,
mingled .with song and hilarious laughter, would have
reached your ears from every quarter. By a hasty glance
through the wide-open doors of the saloons and gamino'
resorts, you would have noticed large crowds of men of all
classes gathered, eagerly watching as if fascinated, the
many games of chance going on, games in which hundreds
of dollars were won and lost in a single night, games in
which, alas, many a tenderfoot was tempted to stake his all
on the hazard of a die, only to lose. The most notorious
as well as the most nefarious of the gambling resorts to be
found in Deadwood during the early days, was a place
on lower Main street called by the musical name of the
" Melodeon," but where the melody came in is not under-
tood, unless it might be the mellifluous How of gold
dust into the pockets of the robbers, thieves, bunko men,
and general cappers, the " Nutshell Bills," the " Pancake
356 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Bills," the " Mysterious Jimmie?," and others of that ilk,
who were said to have made that unsavory resort their head-
quarters. There was another popular resort on lower Main
street, known as the " Variety Theatre," where under the
glare of kerosene lamps the Ella La Rues, the Fanny Gar-
retsons, the Kittie Leroys and the big-voiced Monteverdes,
nightly entertained and enchanted hundreds of men with
ribald song and dance and wine and smutty jest, until
the " wee-sma ' " hours of the morning. All this I was told
and much more, over which it is better to draw the veil.
In the living panorama surging along the street it was
not an uncommon thing to see groups of gaudily-attired,
paint-bedaubed creatures — whom for grammatical accuracy
we will call women, some from whose faces the bloom of
innocence had not yet wholly departed ; others whose
cheeks evidently had years before forgotten how to blush,
boldly parading up and down, amid the jostling crowds, at
early lamplight — presenting a spectacle suggestive of a
degree of depravity not pleasant to contemplate. Albeit,
in view of the fact that the people were outlaws, having no
license to control affairs — not even municipal license, for
several months, there was a remarkable al)sence of disorder
in the streets of Deadwood during its pioneer days.
HOW WE CELEBRATED OUR NATAL DAY IN 1876.
The Centennial Anniversary of our nation's birth was by
no means forgotten by the people of the Black Hills, in
their eager quest for gold, as was shown by the manner in
which the people of Deadwood and its surburban population
of miners observed the day. Pioneers never do things by
halves, and the fact that they were not regarded by Uncle
Sam as citizens, nor accorded any of their rights, lessened
not a whit their zeal and patriotism, or their loyalt}' to the
flag they still loved, so the great national holiday was
celebrated with a vim and enthusiasm worthy of the impor-
tant occasion.
To make the necessary preliminary preparations for the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 357
proper observance of the day, hundreds of stalwart miners
from the adjacent camps gathered in Dead wood on the
evening of the third to aid in the erection of a pole of lib-
erty. The tallest and most symmetrical pole that could be
found along the mountain slopes was secured and planted
in front of the speaker's stand — previously prepared on
the north side of Main street, to be ready for the flag at
the " dawn's early light."
It is needless to state that the celebrators were on the
alert for the hour to begin. I was on the alert too, soon
after, for at the last stroke of the midnight hour by the
cabin clock, or the last tick of the twelfth hour by the
watches in the miners' vest pockets the booming of artil-
lery began. One hundred salutes — anvil salutes — were
fired in reasonably rapid succession, which consumed the
major part of the time till daylight — as per mathematical
calculation ; yes, an average of twenty-tive booms per hour,
in regular sequence, would bring daylight in July, and fig-
ures will not lie. It was so soothing to the nerves, you know.
At the rising of the sun the national emblem was raised
to its position just beneath the little gilded dome surmount-
ing the pole of liberty, where it unfurled its bright folds,
and floated out to the mountain breeze, and it floated none
the less proudly in that the red portion of the emblem was
composed of a patriotic lady's garment of " mystical sub-
limity " that was neither " russet, silk nor dimity." Then
" pent-up Utica broke forth," and volley after volley of
musketry, intermingled with the lusty cheering of the crowd,
gave full proof that patriotism was neither dead nor dying
in the hearts of the Black Hills pioneers.
There was one notable feature about the Deadwood Cen-
tennial celebration, to wit : The ubiquitous boy with the
nerve-destroying fire-cracker was not greatly in evidence —
a circumstance for which every woman in Deadwood was,
no doubt, duly thankful. The crack of small arms, how-
ever, could be heard from every quarter from the right and
the left, from the front and the rearof you, which, with the
358 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
singing of patriotic airs and an occasional report from the
anvil, continued until nearly noon.
At eleven o'clock a. m. Judge W. S. Kuykendall, having
been elected president, mounted the platform and called
the assembled multitude to order. After an impressive
prayer by the chaplain. Rev. C. E. Halley, the Declaration
of Independence was read in his own intimitable style,
by Gen. A. R. Z. Dawson. The orator of the day was
then introduced in the person of Judge Joseph Miller, who
made an eloquent, practical speech — dwelling largely
upon local interests, and closing with a stirring patriotic
peroration.
The following Memorial to Congress — prepared by
himself, was then read by Gen. Dawson and presented for
the signature of the people : —
" To the Honored Senate and House of Representatives of
the United States, in Congress assembled :
" Your memorialists, citizens of that portion of Dakota
known as the Black Hills, most respectfully petition your
honorable body for speedy and prompt action in extinguish-
ing the Indian title to, and the opening for settlement of the
country we are now occupying and improving. We have
now iu the Hills a population of at least 7,000 honest, loyal
citizens, who have come here with the expectation of mak-
ing their homes. Our country is rich not only in mineral
resources, but is abundantly supplied with timber, and a
soil rich enough to sustain a large population.
"Your memorialists would, therefore, earnestly request
that we be no longer deprived of the fruits of our labor
and driven from the country we now occupy, but that the
government, for which we have offered our lives, at once
extend a protecting arm and take us under its care.
*« As in duty bound, your petitioners will ever pray."
It goes without saying that every one to whom the memo-
rial was presented, attached his signature.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 359
Celebrations similar to the one in Deadwood were also
held in Elizabethtown and Montana City. At the former
place Dr. McKinney presided, Dr. Overman read the Dec-
laration of Independence, and Attorney A. B. Chapline
delivered the oration. At Montana City, two miles below
Deadwood, Judge H. N. Maguire delivered an eloquent
oration which stirred his hearers to a high degree of patri-
otic enthusiasm. In the absence of anvils to emphasize
their patriotism, they fired their needle guns into the sides
of the mountains and did everything possible with the
facilities at hand to make the occasion one long to be
remembered.
To still further commemorate the glorious anniversary,
a notable event in the annals of the big mining camp
transpired on that day. In a little log cabin that stood on
the ground now occupied by the Central School building,
Revillo F. Robinson, the first child born in Deadwood,
made his debut on the tumultuous scene, and having made
his advent amid the booming of anvil artillery, the music
and cheering of loyal multitudes, and patriotic utterances
from eloquent lips, iu honor of our Centennial birthday,
Revillo should be, and no doubt is, a true and loyal
" Young America," and, if he bears out the promise of
his early boyhood, Deadwood has good reason to feel proud
of her first-born son. Revillo is the son of Mr. and Mrs.
J. N. Robinson, now living at Dakota City on the Cheyenne
river.
COLLECTION OF TAXES IN THE BLACK HILLS IN 1876.
The exercise of the civil functions of the government
over the people of the Black Hills, as far as the collection
of Federal taxes was concerned, was not long delayed. By
an order of April 12th, 1876, this important function was
first assigned by the Commissioner of Internal Revenue to
the District of Wyoming, but on May 12th, 1876, the
order was revoked by the Revenue Department and assigned
360 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
to the District of Dakota, when Gen. A. R. Z. Dawson was
sent to Deadwood as Deputy Revenue Collector.
Gen. A. R. Z. Dawson — the memory of whose name
causes the heart of every old pioneer to thrill with feelings
of intense pride — was not only the first to collect United
States revenue in the Black Hills, but the sacred words of
the great " Declaration " were first uttered by his eloquent
lips, and rang out on the Black Hills mountain air on our
Centennial natal day ; the first memorial to Congress — in
behalf of the outlawed people of the Black Hills — was
penned by his ready hand; he also served them as first
clerk of the first United States courts held in the Black Hills
under the new regime in 1877, and his taking away was a
sad blow to the people whose stanch friend he ever proved.
The only recognition accorded the people, however, up to
1877, was that of contMbutinor revenue to the government.
Bitter protestations were made against what seemed the
inconsistent and unjust attitude of the government, and
frequent demands were made for recognition, and, if there
had been any efficacy in prayer, the Black Hills country
would have been a full-fledged Territory in 1876, Sioux or
no Sioux.
Pending the negotiations for the extinguishment of the
Indian title to the Black Hills in 1876, the people were in
an almost continuous attitude of supplication and prayer.
First through a Memorial to Congress — which was con-
veyed to Washington by C. V. Gardner — they prayed that
all disqualifications be removed from the people of the
Hills, by legalizing the forced occupancy thereof. In
July, 1876, the people of Deadwood sent a petition, with
the requisite number of signers, to Gov. John S. Penning-
ton, for county organization.
In July, 1876, they memorialized Congress for speedy
action, looking towards the establishment of a separate and
distinct territorial government, a government whose enact-
ments would be in harmony with the local interests and
requirements of the people. Later, a delegate — in the
A. R. Z. DAWSON.
First United States revenue collector and first cleik of courts in the
Black Hills.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 3()1
person of Dr. C. W. Myers — was elected and sent to
Yankton and Washington in the interests of the Bhick
Hills, without, however, any immediate effect, though not
without its influence. In taking a retrospective view of
the then existing circumstances and conditions, it is not
seen how the government could have pursued any other
policy unless, perhaps, in the matter of giving the
people more speedy military protection against the hostile
Indians.
PLATTING OF SOUTH DEADWOOD.
The necessity for a larger scope of domain, to accom-
modate the increasing business and rapidly expanding pop-
ulation of Dead wood, suggested to a few speculative
individuals the scheme of building a rival town, adjacent
thereto, a town which its promoters believed would, in a
few weeks, totally eclipse its imperious elder sister on the
north side, in point of business enterprise and population.
In furtherance of the project, in the early part of July,
1876, a site was selected, laid out and platted on the south
side of and up the narrow defile of Whitewood creek, above
the original site of Dead wood. A city organization was
effected by the election of a mayor, common council, and
all other oflfices necessary to conduct the affairs of a full-
fledged city government. By mutual consent the new city
was christened South Deadwood, in contradistinction to
Deadwood proper.
According to the rules of the organization lots were made
subject to location upon specified conditions, and perhaps
never in the annals of city building was there a greater
scramble for town lots than in the case of South Dead-
wood. Squatter sovereignty reigned supreme. At night
a man would " wrap the drapery of his couch about him
and lie down to pleasant dreams," feeling secure in the
possession of some desirable city property, and wake up
the next morning bright and early to find his ground
fenced in, or occupied, either with the tent or the goods
K
362 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
and chattels of some other fellow. Frequent disputes arose
as to priority of location, in the settlement of which six-
shooters and shot-guns were potent factors.
The summary manner in which disputes were sometimes
settled and lot-jumpers quashed is illustrated by a case of
which 1 was an eye-witness. One morning, on Deadwood
street, I was confronted with the alarming spectacle of a
woman carrying a shot-gun, engaged in an angry dispute,
with an unarmed man, who, it developed, had located her
property. Upon his refusal to comply with her peremp-
tory demand to remove his effects from the ground in dis-
pute, she deliberately raised her gun to her shoulder, and
aiming it directly at the intruder, said : "I'll give you just
one minute, and not a second more, to vacate my property."
It is needless to state that the poor man speedily took a
vacation. Similar cases were of frequent occurrence in
those days.
THE FIRST MURDER IN THE NORTHERN HILLS.
The first conspicuous crime committed in the region of
Deadwood was the killing of a miner named Jack Hinch,
by John R. Carty and Jerry McCarty, at Gayville, on the
night of July 9th, 1876. The particulars of the tragic
affair, as related to me, are substantially as follows: On
Sunday night of the day mentioned, Carty, McCarty and
a man named Trainor, were engaged in a game of cards
in a saloon at Gayville. Hinch, a friend and mining
partner of the latter, while watching the progress of the
game, concluded that his partner was being swindled,
and persuaded him to abandon the game, which brought
about the altercation that culminated in the commission
of the crime. About an hour after Hinch had retired to
his quarters in Turner & Wilson's saloon, Carty and
McCarty entered the place, aroused Hinch, and asked
him to get up and drink with them. Believing the proposi-
tion to be of a conciliatory nature, Hinch started to get
up, when McCarty fired two shots at him, and while in
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 363
this half-upright position, Carty attacked him with a hirge
sheath knife, together inflicting wounds from the eff"ect of
which he died at ten o'clock on the following morning.
Realizing what they had done, the perpetrators hastily
disposed of their mining property — a rich hill claim, giv-
ing one-half to their landlady and the other half to a
friend, procured two horses, and made their escape. A
large posse of Hinch's friends started in pursuit, scouring
the Hills in every direction, but failed to get any trace of
the fugitives. A reward of $500 was then offered for
their capture. As subsequently developed, Carty and
McCarty made their way to Fort Laramie, near which
point they separated, the latter going in the direction of
Cheyenne, the former joining the logging train of Coffee
& Cuny, about to start for Fort Fetterman.
When the pursuing party reached Fort Laramie the
facts were made known to the commanding oflicer of the
post, who assured them that Deputy United States Marshal
I. C. Davis would assist them in every way to ferret out
the criminals. Davis, on receiving a description of the
men, set out in pursuit, overtook the train and captured
the man Carty without the least resistance. McCarty,
the principal, was never, it is believed, found. On the
evening of July 31st, Marshal Davis, accompanied by Mr.
Cuny, arrived with his prisoner at Gayville, the scene of
the murder.
Marshal Davis drove through Deadwood at a mad pace
that day, with Carty wrapped up in a blanket on the bottom
of the wagon, and everybody turned out to see the fright-
ful runaway. It appears that he had been notified back at
a point known as " Break Neck " hill, that it would be very
unsafe to expose his prisoner in passing through Dead-
wood, as Hinch's friends would surely lynch him ; so,
after consulting his prisoner, he adopted this bit of strat-
egy, which came very near making farther proceedings
unnecessary. It is related that on reaching Gayville the
poor fellow was so near suffocated with the extreme heat
364 thb: black hills; ok,
and want of oxygen, that vigorous measures had to be
taken to restore him to consciousness.
In the absence of reguharly constituted courts, it seemed
necessary, in so grave a cliarge as murder, that the formal-
ities of a trial be gone through with; so a miners' meet-
ing was called for the next day, August 1st, for the
purpose of making preliminary arrangements for trying the
prisoner on the charge of murder.
The people were stirred up to a high tension over the
affair. By 10 o'clock of the following day Gayville was
blocked by a vast gathering of excited, turbulent miners
from the camps, and citizens from Deadwood, all eager to
witness the sequel to the initial tragedy of the gulch. The
respective friends of the murdered man and the prisoner
were out in large force, armed to the teeth, the former
headed by big Bill Trainor — as he was called — clamorous
for summary punishment to be meted out to the accused;
the latter led by John Flaherty, who afterwards made a big
stake in the sale of the De Smet group of mines — equally
determined that he should have a fair trial. For a while
the prisoner's life seemed to hang in a balance, with the
preponderance of weight against him. " Hang him, hang
him! " was the cry of Hinch's friends as they surged
threateningly toward the place where the prisoner was
held in custody. " Touch him at your peril ! " was hurled
back defiantly by his friends. At a critical juncture Mar-
shal Davis — whose nerve never weakened at the threats
and curses of the mob that surged about the prisoner,
interposed in his behalf. Mounting a barrel he called the
attention of the excited mob and thus addressed it : —
" Boys, I have brought this man from Fort Laramie,
through a country swarming with Indians, in order that you
might try him for his life. When I took him, I gave him
his choice to be taken to Yankton and tried by the courts,
or to come back to the Hills to be tried by the miners.
He chose to come here, and when he did so, I promised
him that he should have a fair trial, and by that he
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 365
shall have. Try him and if you find him guilty of murder,
hang him and I will help you pull the rope. But, until he
has had a fair trial, the man or men who touch a hair of
his head, will first walk over my dead body." This bold
and manly stand in the performance of his sworn duty,
appealed to the miners' sense of justice and quelled the
mob. The prisoner, for the time being, was safe.
In arranging for the trial, the first step was, of course,
to find a man with the requisite legal attainments, and some
judicial experience, to preside as judge. After casting
about for one who would fill these requirements the choice
finally fell upon O. H. Simonton, who had just arrived in
the Hills, by ox train, over the Fort Pierre route, and who,
it was ascertained, had served in the capacity of justice of
the peace, in the stock yards of Chicago. From a panel
of forty names twelve jurymen were drawn as follows:
E. B. Parker, Ed. Durham, J. H. Balf, John Kane,
G. Schugardt, George Heinrich, A. C. Lobdell, C. W.
Shule, John W. Gill, S. M. Moon, George Atchinson, and
Curley. A. B. Chapline, afterwards a member of
the firm of Young & Chapline, was appointed to prosecute
the case, Carty securing the services of Mills & HoUis to
defend him. The trial of the case, which was held out in
the open, continued all through the day, and until 10
o'clock at night, the procedure in legally constituted courts
being followed as closely as was possible. Uncomfortably
seated on a pile of logs in the vicinage of the court during
the long hours of the trial, might have been seen R. B.
Hughes (Dick Hughes), with pencil in hand, and paper
on his knee, patiently taking notes for "copy" for the
Black Hills Weekly/ Pioneer, and by his side, using a part
of the same pencil. Rev. Smith, who was waylaid and
murdered by Indians about three weeks later.
It was proven at the trial that Carty, although an acces-
sory to the murder, did not inflict the fatal injuries, in
accordance with which fact the jury, after a brief delibera-
tion, handed in a verdict of "Guilty of assault and bat-
366 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
tery." The prisoner was discharged by the court, and given
save convoy out of the country under a strong guard of
armed men, who took him to Deadwood, procured a horse
for him to ride, escorted him to the limits of the town,
where he mounted, and with an exultant whoop rode
away, and the Black Hills saw him no more forever.
THE MURDER OF WILD BILL.
Late in the afternoon of August 2nd, 1876, the denizens
of Deadwood, in the vicinity of lower Main street, were
startled by a loud pistol report, immediately followed by
the hurried tramping of a multitude of human feet, when
the excited cry of '« Wild Bill is shot ! Wild Bill is shot ! "
rang out above the wild tumult of the gathering crowd.
At almost the same time a man might have been seen
backing away up Main street, holding a loaded revolver in
each hand to keep at bay a large posse of excited citizens,
who were following in close pursuit. After a short chase
the desperate man was captured and brought back to No.
10, the scene of the shooting, where he was held in custody
to await his fate.
A strong guard was placed around the building to keep
the prisoner from the clutches of an excited mob, deter-
mined to give him short shrift for his crime. Just at a
critical time a force of about fifty well-armed men — the
body-guard of Carty, who had just been acquitted of the
murder of Hinch — arrived from Gayville with their
charge. After setting Carty free at the lower end of town
they consented to aid in protecting the prisoner from the
threatening mob.
While Wild Bill was playing cards in Nuttall & Maw's
saloon, known as No. 10, wholly unconscious of threatened
danger, McCall walked in behind his victim, raised his re-
volver and tired, the ball entering the back of his head and
coming out at the center of his right cheek, killing him
instantly.
A meeting of the citizens was called at the theater
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 367
building, at which Judge W. L. Kuykendall was chosen to
preside at the trial of the case. Isaac Brown was elected
sheriff, a deputy and twelve guards being appointed by the
court. Col. May acted as prosecuting attorney, and Judge
Miller defended the prisoner. The only evidence given
was by the prisoner himself, who testified that Wild Bill
had killed his brother, somewhere in Kansas, and confessed
to committing the crime in retaliation. The jury chosen
to try the case, after a brief deliberation of about thirty
minutes, returned a verdict of " not guilty," much to the
surprise and dissatisfaction of hundreds of the people of
Deadwood, who declared that trial by jury in the Black
Hills was pretty much of a farce, and that in future murder
cases Judge Lynch would preside.
McCall, who immediately left the Hills on his acquittal,
was afterwards arrested at Laramie City, Wyoming, by
Deputy United States Marshal Balcombe, and taken to
Cheyenne, where he was examined before United States
Commissioner Burns, held upon the evidence, and sent to
Yankton upon a requisition from the Governor of Dakota,
where he was tried, found guilty and sentenced to be
hung, — which sentence was promptly executed.
Wild Bill's remains were taken charge of and buried by
his friends in the old burying-ground overlooking the
Whitewood. His remains were afterwards removed to
** Moriah Cemetery," where his ashes now repose. His
grave, inclosed by an iron fence, is marked by a rough
sandstone obelisk, about six feet in height, surmounted
by a bust of the famous scout. This bust has been sadly
defaced by relic hunters, by reason of which it to-day
bears but a little resemblance to the long-haired, dashing
frontiersman of a quarter of a century ago. On the front
of the stone beneath crossed revolvers is a curved scroll,
bearing, in addition to the ordinary inscription, " Custer
was lonely without him."
On the evening of the same day, August 2d, while the
excitement consequent upon the killing of Wild Bill was
368 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
at its height, a horseman — a half-breed Mexican, came
(lashing furiously up the crowded street with a Sioux
whoop, bearing aloft an Indian's head, with its long black
hair floating back with the wind, furnishing a weird and
most disgusting spectacle, which, as may be imagined,
caused the tragic affair of the afternoon to pale into insig-
nificance. An Indian's scalp was just what the average
Deadwood citizen had been devoutly wishing for. As the
Indians had been making things exceedingly lively by
stealing and running off horses from the settlements along
the northern border, the people feared that a direct attack
upon Deadwood was imminent, and the excitement became
intense.
The Mexican's own story of how he gained possession of
the ghastly trophy was, that some herders had a brush with
a band of red horse-thieves in the vicinity of Crook City,
during which one Indian was killed, whereupon he sprang
forward under a brisk shower of bullets and attempted to
scalp the Indian, but not being an expert at the business,
he cut off the entire head.
Another version of the affair was that on the day pre-
vious, August 1st, the Indians had rounded up all the loose
stock around Crook City, and stampeded them across the
country before the surprised inhabitants had time to offer
any resistance. Among those who made ready to mount
and follow in pursuit was one Felix Rooney, who realizing
that pursuit would be useless, dismounted and lay down in
the grass — holding the lariat-rope to watch the Indians
rapidly disappearing in the distance with the property of
the settlers. VV^hile there a freighter or cattle " whacker"
rode along, dismounted and threw himself on the grass by
the side of Rooney — both of whom were well armed.
After a short time an Indian in war-paint and feathers
dashed up toward Rooney's horse — evidently thinking
him picketed. Upon discovering the owner in the grass
he immediately seized his rifle, but finding it fast in some
way he drew his revolver and fired, whereupon Rooney,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 369
instead of firing his gun, threw himself Hat on the grass,
as he imagined shot.
It developed, however, that Rooney was unhurt, while
the Indian lay dead — killed by a bullet from the unerring
rifle of the intrepid "bull-whacker." On the next day,
August 2d, the Mexican found the dead body of the Indian,
and thinking it would be a good scheme, financially, to
secure the scalp, he essayed the operation, but finding he
could not accomplish the work scientifically decided to cut
off the head. This latter version is perhaps the correct
one ; but whether it is or not, the fact remains that the In-
dian was decapitated, and the Mexican by fair means or
foul, got possession of the head, brought it to Deadwood
and paraded it along Main street on the evening of August
2d, on the strength of which he secured from the citizens
of Deadwood about seventy-five or eighty dollars, every one
of which he " blew in " before the dawn of the following
morninof.
24
370 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
C H A P T E K XXyi.
INDIAN RAID ON THE MONTANA HERD.
Up to this time the people of Deadwood had felt them-
selves comparatively safe from Indian attack, not alone
because their town was entrenched amid the battlements
of the Hills, but because of the cordon of settlements along
the northern border, viz.. Crook City, Centennial, and
Spearfish, whose people were ever on the alert to keep the
red marauders at bay. They were rudely awakened one
day, however, from their sense of comparative security by
the appearance of the painted savages almost at the gates
of the city.
During the forenoon of that never-to-be-forgotten Sun-
day, August 20th, 1876, they were made aware of their
proximity by the sight of fifty or sixty badly frightened
horses, rushing madly through town on a wild stampede.
The " Montana Herd " as before stated, was established
by Burton and Cook on Centennial prairie, where they
built a large stockade or inclosure for the protection of the
herd at night, the stock for the most part belonging to
citizens of Deadwood, and the miners and prospectors of
the surrounding camps. As the price of hay and grain
was exorbitant at the time, nearly all horses coming to
Deadwood were at once sent to the '* Montana Herd "
where they were kept for a reasonable consideration, Bur-
ton and Cook making daily trips across the mountains to
Deadwood, a distance of about six miles, to receive and
return the stock.
On the 20th of August the Indians made a raid on the
herd which resulted in the death of four men, one Indian,
and the loss of 100 head of horses. The evening before,
LAST HUNTING GKOUNO OF THE DAKOTAHS. 371
the herd was ilriveii into the inclosure as usual, the gate
closed and a guard placed on watch, the Indians meanwhile
watching the procedure from a near-by bluff. After all
had retired for the night, the Indians stole down to the
rear of the stockade, and in some way dug out the posts
which formed the structure while the guard slept, and suc-
ceeded in making an opening large enough for the passage
of horses, which it was supposed they intended to stam-
pede early in the morning, while all were profoundly
sleeping. If so they failed to carry out their programme.
The next morning the herd was driven out to feed, as
was the custom. Cook had gone to Deadwood the evening
before and had not yet returned. Burton had just started
for Deadwood, with some horses to return to their owners
and had reached about half way between the camp and the
foot-hills when, hearing a rifle shot, he looked back in the
direction of the camp and saw a large band of Indians
swooping down upon the herd. The horses becoming
frightened at the reports of the rifles and the unearthly yells
of the Indians, started on a wild stampede over the Dead-
wood trail, — the fleetest of them eluding their pursuers,
some of whom followed them almost to the limits of the
town, and it was when near the " Rest" on the old trail
between Deadwood and Crook City, that Rev. Henry
Weston Smith met his fate at the hands of the Indians on
that day.
About fifty or sixty of the stampeded horses came career-
ing wildly along the main street of Deadwood, causing great
consternation and excitement. Some of the horses were
caught, and in sL very brief time about twenty-five well-
armed men W'ere mounted on the stampeded horses, and
away over the trail to the relief of the herders at the
stockade. Meanwhile the Indians had rounded up about
100 head of horses and driven them on towards Lookout
Mountain, east of Spearfish, then on across the Red water
to the north.
Finding the herders unharmed, on reaching the stockade
372 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the party followed up the trail of the Indians, hoping to
overtake them and recover the stock. On riding down
Spring creek, Isaac Brown, who was a little in advance of
the others, saw skulking along a ravine a lone Indian, who
opened fire on the party, which was returned without effect
on either side. When the main party came up, it advanced
cautiously on the position of the Indian, who from his
place of concealment behind a clump of bushes could plainly
see his pursuers, but could not be seen by them, his exact
position being revealed only when he fired.
Brown and Holland advanced from an exposed point still
nearer the ambushed Indian, who then fired, killing Brown
instantly; Holland, guided by the direction of the fatal
shot, aimed his gun at the Indian's head, as he supposed,
and fired, crying out at the same time: " Come on, boys,
I've got him," which were his last words, as at that mo-
ment he fell pierced through the body by a bullet from the
Indian's gun.
All efforts to dislodge him proved unsuccessful ; rocks
and boulders were hurled down upon him without avail.
Night coming on, the party deciding that any further
attempt to dislodge him would be useless and might result
in the death of others, withdrew out of range of his gun to
consider how to recover the bodies of Brown and Holland
that were lying within a few feet of the Indian's hiding-
place. A reward of $500 was offered by Brown's partner
for the recovery of his body, but as no one felt inclined to
risk the dangerous undertaking, the party decided to go to
Spearfish, and return in the morning for the bodies. The
next day they were found — stripped of their clothing,
arms, and ammunition — and conveyed to Deadwood for
interment.
Papers found on the body of Charles Holland revealed
-that he was an Odd Fellow, from Sioux City, Iowa. At
that time, August 21st, 1876, the first steps were taken
towards the organization of a lodge of that order in the
Black Hills. A committee of three '* past grands," viz.,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 373
Judge W. L. Kuykendall, Frank C. Thullen, and Green
Todd was appointed to examine applicants for recognition,
when a temporary organizition was effected, by whicli
organization Charles Holland was buried, Dr. Babcock, of
Deadvvood, reading from their ritual the impressive burial
service of the order. Isaac Brown's remains were taken
charge of by members of the Masonic order, of which he
also was a member, and both were laid to rest in the old
cemetery overlooking Whitewood creek.
THE WOLF MOUNTAIN STAMPEDE.
During the month of July, 1876, an untraceable rumor
of the discovery of fabulously rich diggings somewhere out
among the lower ranges of the Big Horn Mountains, was
set afloat, causing the maddest of mad stampedes from the
rich mining camp of Deadwood. Although the pretended
discoverers guarded the secret of the precise spot of their
wonderful find well, it got whispered around that a " bald
peak " among the Wolf mountain ranges marked the
locality, which all believed they would have little difficulty
in finding.
Numerous horsemen, and pack outfits galore, surrepti-
tiously left Deadwood — some under the cover of night —
and made their way westward over the plains, none know-
ing whither, each eager to be the first to reach the reputed
land of gold and stake off" their claims.
After wandering aimlessly for many days over the West-
ern plains and among the mountains — like a ship without
rudder or compass — in search of the " bald mountain "
that looked down upon the hidden treasure, suffering ter-
rible hardships and exposure, in the face of deadly peril,
the quest was finally abandoned. Some turned their steps
southward and reached civilization on the Union Pacific
Railway ; others penetrated the Big Horn Mountains and
later made their way to the mines of Montana. One party,
after having been severely harassed by the Indians, a few
meeting death at their hands, reached and wintered on the
374 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Crow reservation. Many fonnd their way back to Dead-
wood gulch far wiser, if not richer men.
The story of the rich discovery, which turned out to be
a cruel fabrication, was circulated, it was suspected, for
purpose of profit on the sale of horses, etc.
The following excellent doggerel from the ready pen of
the versatile Jack Langrishe, is a good portrayal of the
sorry, woe-begone appearance of the badly sold Wolf
Mountain stampeders on their return to Deadwood : —
*« This is the man of whom we read,
Who left Deadwood, on the big stampede ;
He's now returned, all tattered and torn,
From looking for sold on the Big Horn.
He has no malt.
He has no cat.
He has no coat.
He has no hat.
His trousers are patched with an old fiour sack,
With " for family use " to be seen on the back ;
His beard is shaggy, his hair is long
And this is the burden of his song:
' If ever I hear, if ever I read
Of another great or big stampede,
I'll listen, but I'll give no heed.
But stay in my cabin at Deadwood.'
He paid ten dollars the other day
For a mule to carry his ' grub ' away,
He packed his load in half an hour.
Two gallons of whisky, one pound of tlour.
He bought a shovel,
And borrowed a pick.
He sported his watch,
And went on tick.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 375
For a side of bacon and a can of lard.
Now look at his fate! My ! isn't it hard?
He walked all day and most of the night,
And now he is back a sorrowful sight,
To the cabin he built in Deadwood.
PROVISIONAL CITY GOVERNMENT E'OR DEADWOOD.
The demand for some kind of municipal government,
vested by the concessions of the people of Deadwood with
power to enact laws, securing the city against fires, and for
the suppression of the reckless discharge of fire-arms within
its limits, and other lawless acts placing the lives of its
•citizens in jeopardy, and also for the more rigid enforce-
ment of the rules and regulations against the use of the
streets of the city for building and business purposes, be-
came each day more and more apparent. Realizing the
necessity of such an organization, a citizens' proclamation
was issued for an election to be held in the City Hall on
the 11th of September, 1876. Caucuses were held in
due form and several different tickets appeared in the
field, the principal contest, however, being for Mayor and
City Marshal. I am not informed as to whether the cam-
paign was conducted along political party lines or not; at
any rate the election was held as per proclamation. The
result was as follows : —
For organization, 1,082 votes; against organization, 57
votes. E. B. Farnum was elected Mayor and ex-officio
Justice of the Peace, receiving 637 out of the total vote of
1,139. Keller Kurtz, Sol. Star, A. P. Carter, and H. C.
Philbrook were elected members of the City Council.
Con Stapleton was chosen City Marshal and John A. Swift,
Clerk and Treasurer.
To secure revenue for the support of the new municipal-
it}', an ordinance was adopted imposing a license for the
conduct of each business and the practice of each profes-
sion in the city, which license was, it is believed, as a rule
promptly paid.
376 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
The following were the number of business houses in
Deadwood, taken by order of the City Council, about the
last of September, 1876 : —
Assayers, 1; auctioneers, 4; amusements, 2; bath-
houses, 1; butchers, 3; blacksmiths, 2; bankers, 1; brew-
eries, 2; billiard tables, 4; barbershops, 3; bakeries, 6;
clothing houses, 11; dentists, 1; doctors, 5; druggists,
4; dry goods, 1; dance houses, 2; fruit dealers, 3; gam-
ing tables, 14 ; grocer-merchants, 21 ; hardware, 2; hotels,
5; jewelers, 3; job-wagons, 4; laundries, 8; lawyers, 7;
livery stables, 3 ; miliners, 1 ; newspapers, 1 ; painters,
3; photographers, 1; queensware, 3; restaurants, 6;
saloons, 27; sawmills, 2; shoemakers, 3; tailors, 3.
Monday, September 25th, 1876, should be chronicled
as a real red-letter day in the annals of Deadwood, being
made memorable by two very important events ; one, the
arrival of the first through coach of the Cheyenne and
Black Hills stage line, bringing the first lady passenger to
Deadwood, in the person of Mrs. R. B. Fay. Among
the other passengers on that first trip was Capt. C. V.
Gardner, to whom Supt. Voorhees intrusted the grave re-
sponsibility of conducting the stage with its load of pas-
sengers safely through the hostile lines into the Hills;
Mr. David Dickey, an old-time plainsman who had served
his apprenticeship on the overland route to California, held
the ribbons from Fort Laramie to Deadwood. The run-
ning time from Cheyenne to Deadwood was six and one-
half days.
On that same day the first quartz mill brought to the
Black Hills passed through Deadwood, en route to Gay-
ville, when a large portion of Deadwood's citizens were
drawn out on the street to behold its advent.
TELEGRAPH LINE REACHES DEADWOOD.
Perhaps the event of most importance to the people
of the Black Hills thus far, was the completion of the
Black Hills Telegraph Line to Deadwood, on December
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS, 377
1st, 1876. By virtue of the indomitable pluck and the
unwavering perseverance of the projector of the enterprise,
in the face^of multiplied difficulties and dangers, and after
months of waiting on the part of the expectant people
of the Hills, Deadwood, the terminal point of the line, was
ou that day placed in direct telegraphic communication
with the outside world. The enterprise which promised so
much for the success and prosperity of the business in-
terests of the Black Hills had at length reached its frui-
tion, and the citizens of Deadwood were correspondingly
jubilant, hailing the event with manifestations of exceeding
delight.
As soon as the instrument was put in talking condition
there followed an interchange of greetings between
Cheyenne and the terminal point of the line. Under the
skiliful manipulation of James Halley, the operator in
Deadwood, the electric current was tiashed over the wire to
Cheyenne, announcing to the Mayor of that city the com-
pletion of the line, and that congratulations were in order,
to which came back in response the following: —
*« Cheyenne, December Ist, 1876.
" To E. B. Farnum, Mayor of Deadwood:
" Your telegram received. Accept thecongratulations of
the citizens of Cheyenne, for your people, and our enter-
prising citizen — formerly — but now your Hibbard . We
have reached you by telegraph line, and we have further
completed a contract to shorten the road between Cheyenne
and Deadwood, sixty or seventy miles, which will be com-
pleted in a short time. We hope our efforts will be recog-
nized and appreciated by your people.
" C. R. Bresnaham,
" Mayor of Cheyenne."
In the evening a large crowd of the citizens of Deadwood,
and miners from surrounding camps, gathered in front of
the telegraph office, ou the north side of upper Main street,
'^ to celebrate the event in a manner commensurate with its
■378 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
importance. An immense pile of combustible material —
consisting of pine knots, brush, etc., was kindled, which
brightly illuminated its picturesque environments, throwing
its lurid glare far up the rocky hillsides flanking the narrow
gnlch — presenting a scene which is vividly remembered.
In the exuberance of their joy, and as expressions of
their gratitude that they were at last placed in instantaneous
communication with home and friends, and the great cen-
ters of trade in the East, with anvil and plenty of gun-
powder, numerous salutes were tired that would have dis-
counted the most approved artillery. With the booming
of anvil artillery, intermingled with the cheering of the
crowd, the celebration went gaily on until a late hour,
culminating in a ball at the Grand Central Hotel.
At the closino; function the creme-de-la-creme of Dead-
wood society was present. The dining-room of the Grand
Central, illuminated by numerous coal oil lamps, brightened
by the gorgeous (?) toilet of the ladies and the somewhat
incongruous " make-up" of the men, presented a fetching
scene, but the men couldn't help it, you know, if some of
them had to appear in business suits, with white gloves and
white neckties, as in those days people were forced to
adapt themselves to circumstances, and wear whatever they
happened to have on hand. Among the gentlemen who
honored the occasion by their presence were the following:
Captain Hibbard, the hero of the celebration; Mayor
Farnum ; Messrs. McPherson, Kehoe, Allen, Adams, Fay;
Wagner, mine host of the Grand Central; Merrick, of the
Black Hills Pioneer; Judges Whitehead, Keithly, and
McCutcheon ; Capt. C. V. Gardner, Doctors Babcock and
Myers; Messrs. Berry and Thompson.
It may be proper to note that but few of the wives of
the above named gentlemen had yet made their advent in
the Hills, which fact in no perceptible way detracted from
the enjoyment of the occasion.
The construction of the Black Hills telegraph line was
commenced in June, 1876, bv William H. Hibbard, for
JAMES IIALLEY
First telegrapher iu the Black Hills; sent the first electric current
over the wires from Deadwoocl to Cheyenue, Wyoming^
on December 1st, 1876.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 379
many years superintendent of construction for the Western
Union Telegraph Co., but owing to the hostile attitude of
the Indians, he was compelled to maintain a large paid
armed force to protect the workmen along the line, which,
with other untoward circumstances, so nearly exhausted his
resources that he was forced either to abandon the project
or ask for financial aid from those who would be benefited
by the enterprise.
Mr. Hibbard choosing the latter course, came to Dead-
wood in July and laid the matter before the business men
of that city with proposals for a loan, the nature of which
the heading of a subscription then opened, will fully
explain : —
" We, the undersigned, do hereby agree to purchase from
W. H. Hibbard, telegraph scrip to the amount set opposite
our names, said scrip being guaranteed by said Hibbard to
be redeemed in telegraphing at regular rates for the face
value thereof over a line to be constructed between Fort
Laramie, Wyoming, and Deadwood City, Dakota, and
which scrip we agree to receive and pay for at face value
in cash as follows, to wit, one-half the amount subscribed
whenever said telegraph line shall have been completed to
Custer City, Dakota Territory, and the remaining one-half
whenever said line is completed to Deadwood City, Dakota
Territory."
The business men of Deadwood, appreciating the advan-
tages of rapid communication with the outside business
world, subscribed to the amount of $5,000.00 approxi-
mately. Custer also subscribed liberally to the loan,
secured and guaranteed in the same manner, one-half to be
paid when the line reached Red Canyon, the remaining half
when it reached Custer City. Aid was also secured in
Cheyenne. Thus financially fortified, the construction of
the line was pushed rapidly forward, reaching Custer City
during the latter part of October, and Deadwood on the
first of December, every dollar of the scrip being after
wards redeemed as per contract.
380 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
FAILURE OF THE BILL FOR TERRITORY OF LINCOLN.
The urgent petition presented to Congress in July, 1876,
for the formation of a separate and distinct Territory, com-
prising the mineral region of the Black Hills, supplemented
by the continuous earnest efforts of the people to that end,
resulted in the formulation of a bill, in furtherance of the
project. The bill came before the Senate for considera-
tion in February, 1877, and reads as follows: —
" A^Bill to establish the Territory of the Black Hills, and
to provide for a temporary government thereof:
*' Section 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of
Representatives of the United States of America in Congress
assembled, that all that portion of the territory of the United
States, described as follows: Commencing at a point
where the forty-third parallel of north latitude intersects
with the twenty-fifth meridian of longitude west from the
city of Washington, thence following a due westerly
course along said forty-third parallel to its intersection
with the thirtieth meridian west from the city of Washing-
ton; thence north along said thirtieth meridian of longi-
tude to its intersection of the Yellowstone river to the
center of said channel ; thence following the center of said
channel to its intersection with the forty-seventh parallel
to the western boundary line of Dakota Territory; thence
due south along said boundary line to the forty-sixth
parallel of north latitude ; thence due east along
said forty-sixth parallel to the twenty-fifth meridian
of longitude west from the city of Washington ;
thence south along said twenty-fifth meridian to the place
of beginning. Be, and the same is hereby organized into
a temporary government — by the name of Lincoln Terri-
tory.
" Sec. 2. That the said Territory of Lincoln, and the sev-
eral officers thereof, shall be invested with all the right,
powers and privileges, and be subject to all regulations.
LAST HUNTING GROUN'D Or THE DAKOTAHS. 381
restrictions and provisions contained in Cliaptei- 1 of Title
23 of the Revised Statutes of the United States, except as
herein otherwise provided. ,. ■. , „f .„;,!
.< Sec 3 That the legislative power and authority of said
Territory shall be vested in the Governor and Legislative
Assembly. The Legislative Assembly shall consist of a
Council and House of Kepresentatives ; the Council haU
consist of nine members, which may be increased to thu-
teen members having the qualifications of voters m sa.d
'^"'ser4 The House of Representatives shall consist of
thirteen members, which may be increased to twenty-seven
members, possessing the same qualifications as are herein
prescribed for the members of the Council; provided,
ha "he ri.ht of voting and holding oifice in said Territory
shall be exercised only by inhabitants thereof who are
oitizens of the United States.
..Sec 5 That a delegate to the House of Representatives
of the United States to serve during such Congress of the
United States be elected by the voters of said Territory, qual-
ified to elect members of the Legislative Assembly, who
shall be entitled to all and the same rights and privileges as
are exercised and enjoyed by the delegates from the several
other Territories in said House of Representatives pro-
vided that no person shall be a delegate who shall not
have attained the age of twenty-five years, and have the
other qualifications of a voter in said Territory.
..Sec 6 That when the land in said Territory shall be
surveyed under the direction of the government ot the
United States preparatory to bringing the same into the
market, sections sixteen and thirty-six in each townsh p
in said Territory shall be, and the same is, hereby reserved
for the purpose of being applied to schools in the State oi
States, hereafter to be erected out of the same.
'.Sec 7. That the President of the United States, by and
with the consent of the Senate, shall be and is hereby
authorized to appoint a Surveyor-General for the said Tern-
382
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
tory, who shall locate his oiBce at such place as the Secretary
of the Interior shall from time to time direct, and whose
duties, powers, obligations, responsibilities, compensations,,
and allowances for clerk hire, office rent, fuel, and inci-
dental expenses, shall be the same as those of the Territory
of Dakota under the direction of the Secretary of the
Interior, and under instructions as he may deem advisable
from time to time to grive."
Despite the efforts put forth both at Washington and at
home in its behalf the bill failed. When the question of
the division of the Territory and its admission into the
sisterhood of States as two States came before the people
in 1886-9, the question of a separate State for the Black
Hills was again agitated by the people of the Hills to no
purpose.
GRANVILLE G. BENNETT,
First Judge of the First Territorial District Court in tlie Black Hills.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 383
CHAPTEE XXVII.
THE BLACK HILLS OPENED TO SETTLEMENT.
With the ratification of the Sioux Treaty of 1876 by
Congress, and its approval by the President on February
28tb 1877, we enter upon a new and important epoch in
Black Hills history. By the extinguishment of the Sioux
title thereto, the stigma of outlawry was removed from the
people and thev became invested with all the rights, priv-
ileges and powers of American citizens, and inasmuch as
up°to that time they had been, in a great degree, isolated
from the rest of the world and entirely outside the pale
of the law, they were, as may be imagined, a correspond-
inaly gratified people. The coveted territory was at
las", secured to them for a habitation all their own, where
each from the shelter of his own vine and fig tree could
vvatch, unmolested, the coming dawn of a better civd-
ization. , , . t • -i
It took not long to set all the complex machinery ot civil
government in operation, nor for the people to become
adjusted to the new order of things.
Under an Act of the Territorial Legislature, the bov-
ernor appointed three commissioners to organize a county
government for each of the three counties into which the
Black Hills was originally divided; regular United States
courts were established by the government, as also United
States postal service, at all important points in the Black
Hills In April, 1877, Judge Granville G. Bennett, under
appointment by the President, arrived in Deadwood to
establish and assume jurisdiction of the courts of the Black
Hills, which then formed a part of the First Judical
District of Dakota Territory.
384 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
Under the new conditions a radical and salutary change
in the material and social economy of the Hills soon
became apparent. Capital seeking profitable investment
in the many rich quartz mines then in process of develop-
ment, began to make its way into the country; enterpris-
ing business men, fortified with ample means, ventured
into the Hills with their families, and identified themselves
with their commercial interests ; others, who had braved
the perils of a journey over the plains at an earlier date,
but who had prudently left their families behind until the
danger was past, or perhaps to see whether a prize or a
blank awaited them, in the then uncertain future of the
new El Dorado, sent for their household goods, and
founded permanent homes in the towns, or on the fertile
valleys and plains.
JUDGES OF THE BLACK HILLS DISTRICT AND CIRCUIT
COURTS.
Appended is a list of the judges who have presided over
the District and Circuit Courts of the Black Hills since the
first establishment of our regular courts i i the spring of
1877 to the present time : —
Judore Granville C. Bennett came to the Black Hills
under appointment by President Hayes, to establish law
and order, in April, 1877. He established courts and
assumed jurisdiction on the bench of the First Circuit of
the Territorial District Court, which he occupied until
September, 1878, when he resigned. Judge G. C. Moody
was appointed by President Hayes to fill the vacancy, and
presided from 1878 to October, 1882. Judge Wm. E.
Church, of Morristown, New Jersey, under appointment by
the Garfield administration, occupied the bench from 1882
to 1886, when Judge Chas. M. Thomas of Bowling Green,
Ky., under appointment by President Cleveland, suc-
ceeded to the bench which he occupied until the termination
of the Territorial courts at the close of 1889.
HON. GIDEON C. MOODY,
First United States Senator from the Black Hills, South Dakota.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK OAKOTAHS. 385
In 1889, when the southern portion of Dakota Territory
was admitted to Statehood, the territory comprising the
Bhick Hills was constituted the Seventh and Eighth Judi-
cial Districts of the State Circuit Court, the Seventh con-
sisting of the counties of Pennington, Custer, and Fall
River ; the Eighth of Lawrence, Butte, and Meade Counties.
At the first election under the State laws in the fall of
1889, Judge John W. Nowlin, of Rapid City, was elected
to the bench of the Seventh Judicial District, which he
occupied until November, 1892, when, owing to failing
health, he resigned, and Judge Wm. Gardner, of Rapid
City, was appointed to fill the vacancy for the remainder
of the term. In the fall of 1893, Judge Gardner was
elected to succeed himself, occupying the bench until Janu-
ary, 1898, when he was succeeded by the present incum-
bent. Judge Levi McGee.
In the fall of 1889 Judge Chas. M. Thomas was elected
to the bench of the Eighth Judicial District, which he
occupied until January, 1894, when he was succeeded by
Judge A. J. Plowman, of Deadwood, who presided until
January, 1898, when Judge Joseph A. Moore donned the
ermine.
HIGHWAY ROBBERS AND ROAD AGENTS.
Although, with the cession of the Black Hills in 1877,
Indian hostilities were reduced to a minimum, and little
danger was apprehended from that source, the lines of
public travel were still menaced by danger of quite another
sort. Instead of being swooped down upon by bands. of
yelling, whooping savages, passengers were liable at any
time and point on the route, to be confronted by the
apparition of several masked figures, silently emerging
from some shadowy recess near the road, and to find
themselves suddenly looking into the persuasive muzzles of
several six-shooters, at short range, or shot-guns at longer
range, and greeted, in sepulchral tones, with the per-
emptory mandate of " Hold up your hands/' — which dis-
386 ■ THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
courteous mandate was usually obeyed with the utmost
alacrity. While in this helpless attitude of solemn invoca-
tion, they were systematically searched, and relieved of all
their superfluous belongings, such as money, watches,
jewehy, or other valuables found upon their persons.
Occasionally, however, a passenger, with more courage
than discretion, would reach for his hip pocket, whip out
his revolver like a flash, and fire on the masked robbers at
first sight, thus precipitating a fight.
Those early knights of the road did their work with a
thoroughness worthy of a better cause; indeed they had
the profession reduced to a fine art. As some now in the
Black Hills who have been put through the course will
remember, their modus operandi was as follows: First,
after being compelled to dismount and stand in a row, pas-
senger's pockets were emptied of their contents, then the
internal economy of the men's hats and women's bonnets
and coiffures were carefully examined — they were no
respectors of persons, those Sir Knights, — then hands
were deftly and caressingly passed over their clothing in
quest of any bulges or })umps not accounted for b}^ the aver-
age human anatomy, and lastly men's boots and women's
shoes were pulled off to secure the possible wad of green-
backs, or some cherished article of jewelry hidden in the
toes thereof.
While 1877 began an epoch of material prosperity for
the Black Hills, it also began what may appropriately be
designated the era of "hold-ups," horse-stealing and
*' cattle-rustling." In the early years, before the advent of
railroads, when passengers were transported and the gold-
dust and bullion product of the Hills was shipped by stage
over the plains, the country surrounding the Black Hills
was infested by as desperate and conscienceless bands of
robbers as ever inflicted their unwelcome presence on anew
mining camp. As a consequence " hold-ups " and stage
robberies were \evy common occurrences — in fact they
were the rule and not the exception.
LAST HUNTING GItOUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 387
Perhaps the first attempt at stage robbery within the
limits of the Hills was made near Deadwood, on the night
of March 25th, 1877, resulting in the killing of Johnny
Slaughter, driver of the Sidney and Black Hills stage
coach. The stage, it appears, left Custer City on that day
with eleven passengers, — ten men and one woman, viz. :
Harry Lake, Walter Her, A. G. Smith, B. P. Smith,
Chas. Burns, Angus McMasters, Charlie Ostram, Mattie
Ostram, and three other names unknown, and $15,000 in
cash, in charge of Harry Lake, for Stebbins, Wood &
Co.'s bank, now the First National Bank of Deadwood.
When five miles north of Hill City the stage became dis-
abled, causing considerable delay, as it had to travel
slowly.
When, at eleven o'clock that night, the lumbering, crip-
pled coach, with its load of tired passengers, reached the
mouth of Gold Run, about where the Pluma Mill now
stands, five men were noticed marching alonor the middle of
the road ahead, one a little in advance of the others, who,
when the stage approached them, separated two on each
-;ide, apparently to let it pass. Just as the stage got
abreast of them, one of the men on the left suddenly
thrust his gun into the stage and fired. Harry Lake
quickly grasped the gun with both hands, and held on to
it with such desperate tenacity that the robber, in trying to
wrest it from his grasp, pulled him out of the stage on the
left.
Meanwhile the advance agent had leveled his shot-gun and
tired at the driver, who fell dead from the box on the right,
the charge grazing the elbow of Her who was in the act of
reaching around to his right side pocket for his revolver.
Her and Burns, who rode on the box, supposing the driver
had jumped otf the box to avoid the shot, also at almost
the same moment jumped and made for a place of shelter
and long range. The horses, becoming frightened at the
shooting, immediately started on a wild run towards Dead-
wood with the stage and its five terrified, white-faced pas-
388 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
sengers, followed by a volley from the guns of the robbers ^
who then made good their escape without any booty. It
all occurred in a much less time than it takes to tell the
stor3^ In their mad flight the wheel horses got tangled up
in the lines in such a way as to turn the lead team entirely
around, so that after running a distance of about a half
mile, they came to a dead halt. Soon after, Lake, Her,
and Burns put in an appearance, but the unfortunate driver
came not.
The passengers, after straightening up the tangled out-
fit, proceeded to Deadwood, where they arrived at about
midnight. The story soon spread over the city, creating
intense excitement and indignation that such a bold attempt
at highway robbery should be made almost within the
shadow of its buildings. A party, composed of A. G.
Smith, John Manning, and West Travis, followed by
others, hastened to the scene of the encounter in search of
Slanghter, whose dead body was soon found where it fell
from the box. Upon examination it was found that thir-
teen buckshot had entered directly over the heart, twelve
of them forming a perfect circle. This affair of the road,
which occurred just before the establishment of law in the
Black Hills, was the only " hold-up " ever attempted
within the limits of Lawrence County. Seth Bullock, who
about this time received his appointment as Sheriff of Law-
rence County, took prompt measures to hunt down the
perpetrators of the crime, but, it is believed, without
success.
Again, in July, 1877, the Sidney coach was stopped
about four miles south of Battle creek and robbed of the
treasure box, and the passengers relieved of their money,
watches, jewelry, and baggage. The gold shipments were
first sent out in an iron or steel treasure box, under guard
of armed men.
The officers of the newly-established law in the Hills
were ever on the alert for the outlaws, keeping close *' tab "
on all persons hanging about the town without visible
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 389
means of support, or suspicious characters lurking in the
shadows of public resorts, and their keen untiring vigilance
and evident determination to hunt down and drive out the
desperate gang from the country made it the part of wis-
dom and prudence for them to change their base of opera-
tions from the Hills to a less torrid clime, where they
felt they would be safe from the terrible sleuth-hounds of
Black Hills law.
They finally made their stamping ground at Hat creek —
a point on the stage route, remote from the settlements of
the Hills, where they thought they could ply their avoca-
tion of stage robbery with impunity. From this point they
continued to hold up and rob stage coaches with great
regularity ; in fact robberies became so frequent that the
driver always expected to be held up when they had treas-
ure aboard, and at certain points on the route looked for a
man or men with shot-guns to step out from behind a pro-
jecting rock and order him to " halt " and throw out the
treasure box.
HOW A DEADWOOD LADY SAVED HER WATCH,
Despite their seemingly utter lack of sentiment or moral
scruples, those early bandits were not always proof against
flattery, as the following episode will illustrate. The story
runs thus: A lady, the wife of a well-known Deadwood
citizen, was, upon a time, a passenger on one of the stage
coaches that was held up on the Sidney route. The lady
had a watch on her person that she highly valued, and
while the robbers were engaged in securing the property
of the other passengers she slyly concealed it among the
coils of her back h;ur. One of the robbers soon ap-
proached her and demanded her money and valuables,
which she readily yielded up, with the exception of the
watch. The robber either accidentally or otherwise es-
pied the watch, reached out and took it, and was coolly
transferring it to his pocket, when the lady in imploring
accents cried: "Please, Mr. Eobber ! good Mr. Robber I
390 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
dear Mr. Robber! don't take my watcli." The robber,
unable to withstand the stirring appeal, and, perhaps,
struck by the humor of the situation, with a hearty laugh
handed the watch back to its owner. Such generosity,
however, was but rarely displayed.
Another lady, a sister-in-law of W. H. Harlow, now a
resident of Spearfish, when leaving the Hills in 1878, took
the precaution before starting of concealing the contents
of her purse, amounting to $100 or such a matter, among
the intricate meshes of her back hair, hoping to smuggle it
through without discovery, but, alas ! at a point on the
road known as " Eagle's Nest," the stage was held up and
the passengers robbed of all their valuables, and the roll
of greenbacks so carefull}^ concealed iu the young lady's
hair did not escape detection.
THE DEAD WOOD FAMOUS TREASURE COACH.
As a last desperate expedient to defeat the purposes
of the outlaws. Superintendent Voorhees, of the Sidney
and Black Hills Stage and Express Line, had built the
historic Deadwood treasure coach, designed expressly for
the transportation of Black Hills gold. This famous
coach, a familiar object to all old-timers, was a strongly
constructed and formidable affair, lined with heavy steel or
iron plate, intended to defy the bullets of the desperate
bandits. Passengers entering or returning from the Hills
by the ordinary passenger coaches frequently shipped their
valuables on the treasure coach for greater security, it
being regarded as nearly invulnerable.
When completed it was put on the road under the escort
of five picked men, unerring pistol shots, with Scott
Davis as Chief Messeno-er — all armed with shot-gruns and
six-shooters, to guard the treasure on its dangerous way
over the line. Brave, intrepid, and nervy men were those
messengers who guarded the gold dust and the bullion out
of the Black Hills during those early days, and the story
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 391
of their daring adventures on their perilous trips is by no
means the least interesting portion of Black Hills history.
Several trips were made by the new coach without
encountering any danger, but a time came later when the
true metal of the iron-protected vault on wheels, as well
as the nerve of the messengers in charge of the treasure,
were put to a crucial test. That occasion was the
memorable Cold Springs robbery of 1878.
One day, during that year, the treasure coach with three
messengers and a telegraph operator named Campbell
aboard, and Big Gene, the driver, on the l)ox, drove up as
usual to the stage station at Cold Springs without dream-
ing that danger lurked about the place. Everything about
the premises bore its wonted aspect of security. The
stages had never been attacked at the stations. The horses
were halted at the door of the station, the driver threw
the lines he had held over the six horses to the ground,
and was preparing to dismount from the box, when,
suddenly, as a thunder-clap from a clear sky, a loud report
of fire-arms rang out, and a deadly hail of bullets came
hurtlino; asainst the side and throuo;h the coach, killino-
Campbell and dangerously wounding Gale Hill, one
of the messengers ; Scott Davis, Chief Messenger, also
slightly wounded, taking in the situation at one glance,
jumped to the ground on the opposite side from
where their assailants stood, and made for the heavy
timber near by, under cover of which he opened a brisk
fusillade on the five desperadoes. So fast and furious
came the hail of shot from the timber into the ranks of
the robbers, that two of them, impelled by the instinct
of self-preservation, finally made a sort of breastwork
or Big Gene, whom they had captured and disarmed.
Placing the poor fellow in front of them, as a protection,
they compelled him to walk towards the spot where Davis
was concealed, and when within communicating distance,
they warned him to stop firing or take the alternative of
seeing: " Bis: Gene " killed then and there. Realizing that
392 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
the drivel's life was at stake, he ceased firing and, though
wounded, started at once for the nearest stage station for
assistance.
After Davis had ceased firing, the robbers compelled the
driver to seize a pick and break open the treasure box,
when, after taking possession of its contents, $45,000 in
gold bullion, they pinioned " Big Gene " to a wheel of the
coach, mounted their horses and rode away, leaving their
wounded comrade where he had fallen. During all these
proceedings the third messenger was lying stretched at full
length on the bottom of the coach, apparently dead. He
was not dead, however, nor even wounded, but merely act-
ing his part in the tragic drama, and so well did he perform
his diflScult role, that not even a suspicion of the truth
dawned upon the minds of the outlaws. By feigning death
he had saved his own life, and also gained some informa-
tion that afterwards proved valuable when the search for
the robbers began. The other two messengers were at the
station below, where they intended joining the force upon
the arrival of the coach.
The names of the five bandits were Blackburn, Wall,
Brookes, " Red Head Mike," and Price, who, it was ascer-
tained, had taken possession of the station and concealed
themselves before the arrival of the coach, the stocktenders
having been securely bound and gagged, to prevent them
giving the alarm. It was several months before the
wounded outlaw recovered, from whom a clue was obtained
as to the identity of the other members of the gang.
The officers of the law immediately got upon the trails of
the robbers and followed them up until they were nearly all
captured and most — perhaps all — of the stolen treasure
recovered. The vigorous measures taken to hunt down the
gang that infested the country had a salutary effect, as no
other attempt was made to hold up the treasure shipments
on that route.
It is now recalled that a few, at least, of that desperate
israns: of outlaws who infested the Black Hills region during
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 393
the late '70s were brought to justice in Dead wood in the
summer of 1877, I think it was, and it was this way: —
As I was walking leisurely down Sherman street one Sun-
day in July of that year, when in the vicinity of the old log
jail my attention was attracted to a wild commotion in the
street below, and a horseman was seen speeding avvay over
the hills to the right followed by a volley of bullets, the rider
turning in his saddle occasionally to tire back at his pursu-
ers. Skipping nimbly away out of the possible range of
some stray bullet, I saw no more, but upon inquiry later
the following facts relative to the exciting episode were
eliminated : —
D. B. May, a ranchman from Lance creek., on the Chey-
enne river, thought he recognized among the motley crowd
gathered in front of the post-office, one of a gang that
" held up " the Black Hills stage coach about four weeks
before, robbing him of $70 in money. Upon communicat-
ing his suspicion to others, a man named Goldman
approached the suspected individual and slapped him upon
the shoulder, whereupon he quickly pulled his revolver and
fired, the ball grazing the arm of Mr. May, who promptly
returned the fire. The stranger then quickly mounted his
horse, which was hitched near by, and made for the hills,
emptying the chambers of his revolver at the pursuing
crowd as he rode. He had not gone far when a well-
directed shot by Deputy Sheriff Cochrane brought both
horse and rider to the ground. After clearing himself
from his fallen horse he tried to make his escape on foot,
but was defeated in this purpose by Sheriff Bullock, who,
arriving opportunely on the scene in company with Dep-
uty Captain Willard, soon arrested the fugitive and had
him conveyed to jail, while he (Bullock) and Deputy Wil-
lard started in pursuit of two other men, who appeared to
be trying to make their escape and were being pursued by
Mr. Gilman. These were also arrested and placed in j.iil.
The prisoners gave their names as Prescott Webb, G. W.
Webb, andC. P. Wisdom.
394 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Since the advent of railroads in the Bhiek Hills ship-
ments of bullion from the large mines are made only semi-
monthly, and the exceeding precaution taken in making
such shipments, has reduced the danger of bullion robbery
to a minimum. The gold is molded into bricks, varying
in size, but usually about ten inches in length, six inches
wide, and five inches in thickness, at the offices of the
companies. It is customary, I am informed, for the
messenger to receive the bullion at the offices of the
companies, where it is receipted for, and then taken under
guard to the office of the express company over whose line
it is to be shipped, where it is securely wrapped and sealed,
then placed in the treasure box and conveyed under guard
to the railroad station and placed in the express car. The
messenger, armed with loaded shot-oun and six-shooter,
accompanies the treasure until it reaches a point of safety.
During the early shipments by railroads, messengers have
been known to guard the bullion as far as Omaha on its
way East. Now, however, the heavy bullion [)roduct of
the northern Hills is accompanied by the messenger only
as far as Rapid City.
Richard Bullock, reputed to be one of the nerviest mes-
sengers who ever guarded the orold bullion out of the Black
Hills, has been employed for many years to guard the
semi-monthly shipments of the bullion product of the great
Homestake aggrieoration of mines, without ever having lost,
COO ^
it is alleged, a single ounce of the millions of treasure
intrusted to his care. During the time that Whitewood
was the terminus of the first railroad to the Hills, the F.
E. & M. V. Bullock guarded the bullion over the stage route
between Deadwood and Whitewood, through a mountainous
country that was peculiarly inviting to road agents, with-
out ever having encountered a single knisht of the road.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 395
CHAPTER XXVIir.
CUSTER COUNTY.
Custer County originally occupied all that portion of the
Black Hills of Dakota, lying betsveen 43^ and 43' 50' north
latitude, and betAveeii the 103 and 104 meridian of longi-
tude west of Greenwich ; besides a small triangular frac-
tion on the northeast, bordering the south fork of the Big
Cheyenne river, altogether covering an area of a little
more than 3,000 square miles, or one-half of the entire
ceded territory.
The county, as first defined, may be divided into two
nearly equal portions; the one comprehending the moun-
tainous and mineral-bearing region, in which is included
the greater part of the Harney granite uplift; the other the
grazing and agricultural lands outside of the foot-hills, in
which is included the fertile valleys of the numerous streams
draining that area and a considerable extent of prairie land
on both sides of the Cheyenne river. The northern or
mountainous portion is covered by an abundant growth of
pine timber of excellent quality, and interspersed with
many charming parks, — half wood and half glade; the
middle and southern portion consisting, for the most part,
of high prairie table-lands, becoming mountainous toward
the south. The whole area is drained by Spring, Battle,
French, Beaver, and Fall River creeks.
At the first session of the newly appointed Board of
County Commissioners, held in the parlors of the Occi-
dental Hotel at Custer, beginning on the 27th of April,
1877, the county was organized and named Custer, in honor
of Gen. Geo. A. Custer, who commanded the first military
expedition to the Black Hills in the summer of 1874.
The meetinss at Custer were held on the 27th of April,
396 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the 4th, 5th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th of May, 1877,
during which the county was temporarily located at Hay-
ward, by a majority vote of the Board, and, by the way,
there is a bit of rather amusinir history connected with the
location of the capital of Custer County, which furnishes an
example of a little exceedingly sharp practice on the part
of one of the commissioners, and the story runs thus : —
The appointees for Commissioners of Custer County
were M. D. Thompson of Yankton, Chas. Hay ward of
Hayward, and E. G. Ward of Custer City, the two latter
places being rivals for county seat honors.
Custer, not having yet fully recovered from the effects
of its suddenly arrested growth in the spring of 1876, had
at the time but a meager population, while on the other
hand, Hayward had developed into a booming, hustling
mining camp, of perhaps 300 people.
At the initial session of the Board, M. D. Thompson, the
Yankton member, was chosen permanent chairman of the
meetings, and when the work of organization, the appoint-
ment of subordinate county officers and other preliminary
proceedings looking to the establishment of county govern-
ment, was concluded, Mr. Haj'ward made a motion to locate
the county seat at Hayward, which Ward naturally re-
fused to second, thus blocking procedure in that direction,
when, after a short discussion, the Board adjourned to meet
on the followinoj mornin^r.
In the interim there was doubtless considerable influence
brought to bear on the neutral member, who, after weigh-
ing the matter, finally came to the conclusion that the cap-
ital should be where it would accommodate the greatest
number of the people of the county, so meeting Mr. Hay-
ward he told him to renew his motion at the meeting to be
held in the morning. This Hayward did, but, as before,
Ward failed to second the motion.
The chairman, who had his bit of strategy all figured
out, after waiting a few minutes, pulled a cigar from his
pocket, bit off the end, fumbled in his vest pockets for
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 397
something which he ostensibly failed to find, then, vacating
the chair, approached Mr. Ward and asked him for a
match. While lighting his cigar, he requested Ward to
occupy the chair, which he did, when he (Thompson)
seconded Hayward's motion, which, of course, was carried
by a majority of one, and thus Hayward was made the
temporar}'^ county seat. The first meeting of the Board at
Hayward was held on May 16th, 1877.
In canvassing the returns of the election held in Novem-
ber, 1877, to elect county officers and permanently locate
the capital, there were found, it is claimed, many fraudu-
lent votes. Custer, however, claimed the election, which
Hayward refused to concede, and, as a sequence, the con-
test waxed warm. Tradition says that, to summarily settle
the matter, a party of men went to Hayward, took forcible
possession of the county archives, and carried them ta
Custer ; and further says, that the party was promptly
arrested and compelled to return the county property to
Hayward. Not until 1879 was the contest adjusted, and
the capital permanently located at Custer City, the last
meeting of the Commissioners at Hayward being held on
October 7th, 1879, and the first at Custer three days later,
on October 10th, 1879.
The first county officers of Custer County were as fol-
lows : —
County Commissioners : M. D. Thompson, Chas. Hay-
ward, and E. G. Ward.
Probate Judge : J. W. C. White.
Register of Deeds and ex officio County Clerk: Fred. J.
Cross.
Sheriff: D. N. Ely.
Treasurer: Frank B. Smith.
Constables: M. H. Brown, C. A. Scott.
Justices of Peace: Theodore Vos. Brough, S. R. Shank-
laud, C. L. Spooner.
Surveyor: Robt. Harvey.
Assessor: A. B. Hughes.
398 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
On November 12tb, 1881, the boundary line between
Caster and Pennington counties was definitely fixed, when
Huyward was found to be within the lines of Pennington
County, some two or three miles.
Until 1881 courts were held in ordinary buildings. In
that year a fine two-story brick structure was erected at a cost
to the county of $12,000, for the payment of which county
bonds were issued. Up to this time considerable expend-
itures had been made by the county in improving roads
and building bridges across the principal streams, showing
a commendable spirit of public enterprise on the part of
its 2,000 population.
In 1882 the assessed valuation of Custer County was
$363,329; the tax levy thirty mills, and the total in-
debtedness $29,407.29, at which time county bonds were
worth 97 cents on the dollar. In 1883 the county was sub-
divided on the boundary line between townships Nos, 6 and
7 south, and the southern subdivision organized into Fall
River County, thus catting off a considerable portion of
the grazing lands from the old county, but leaving for the
most part the mineral bearing and the most heavily tim-
bered areas to Caster County. This subdivision was made
in obedience to the popular verdict of the portion to be
segregated.
The county has now (1898) an assessed valuation of
$784,504.00 ; a total indebtedness of $174,188.86, and con-
tained a population of 4,740 in 1896.
THE MINES OF CUSTER COUNTY.
From the easily exhausted placer deposits of French
creek and tributary gulches, the attention of prospectors
was, about 1879, first directed to the discovery and devel-
meni of the other varied resources of that region of the
Hills, which resulted in exposing numerous promising mines
of gold, mica, tin, and other minerals, but owing to the
absence of facilities for dealing with the product, much of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 399
the needed stimulus to a vigorous development of mining
properties by their owners was lacking during the first
years of Custer County miuing history. With the advent
of the railroad in 1890, however, a new impetus was given
to mining activity in that region.
Among the early discoveries in gold-bearing quartz were
the " Grand Junction," "Penobscot," " Salmon." " At-
lantic," "Old Bill," "Old Charley," "Lightning,"
" Mayflower," and " North Pole."
The Grand Junction was located in April, 1879, by Chas.
Crary, F. A. Towner, James Friend, and Joseph Summers.
This mine is situated about seven and one-half miles north-
west of Custer City, near the boundary line of Custer and
Pennington counties. In 1880 a company erected a twenty-
stamp mill on the property. In 1881 a new company was
organized called the Grand Junction Company, which car-
ried on operations for nearly a year, when, in July, 1882,
a company of St. Louis capitalists under the name of the
Constant Mining Company, purchased the property and
erected a forty-stamp mill. This mill was operated on the
mine until the winter of 1885, when it closed down, since
which time the batteries have been idle.
The Grand Junction is a large vertical vein of quartz,
full sixty feet in width, with hornblende on the east and a
slate wall on the west side. The ore near the surface was
partly free milling, but as depth was attained it was found
to be in conformation with base metals, and therefore the
gold could not be recovered by amalgamation — hence the
suspension.
Unfortunately for that region of the Hills, this failure
to extract the gold from refractory ore by the free milling
process did not serve as a salutary warning to future mine
owners and operators, for, despite this object-lesson they
continued to discover mines which yielded rich returns by
chemical analysis, upon which they persisted in erecting
stamp mills, until nine were erected in Custer County,
upon the best mines in the district, — some of which still
400 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stand as mouuraents to the deplorable shoit-sighledness of
the early mine operators.
The Penobscot mine is situated about seven miles north-
west from Custer, and was located by A. Wilcox, W. C,
Gooch and Joel Mead in 1879. The owners did a small
amount of work on the mine, and sold a half interest to
Jas. Brodieof Lead City, who was formerly connected with
the Old Abe, now the property of the Homestake Co. In
1880 the firm erected a mill on the property and equipped
it with antiquated machinery, which was first used in a
mill in Colorado, away back in 1860. In 1877, having out-
lived its usefulness, it was sold to Messrs. Potter & Powers,
who transported it to the Black Hills, and put it in opera-
tion on one of the early mines at Central. Provingaltogether
unsatisfactory for milling purposes, the machinery was
sold in 1880 to Gooch, Brodie & Co., who took it down to
Custer County, and put it up at the Penobscot mine. The
firm tried hard to pound a little gold out of the Penobscot
ore with the condemned batteries, but becoming disgusted
with the results they sold the property to Messrs. Fortune^
Wilson & Bull, in 1881, the latter selling his interest to
Dr. Broughton of Broadhead, Wisconsin. This company
ran the mill for a short time, when the worthless machinery
was taken down and moved away. Is it any wonder that
the ore refused to yield to such treatment? It will be
recalled by those whose memories go back twenty-one
years, that other obsolete machinery was brought up from
Colorado to the Black Hills, and put in operation on some
of the early mines around Central, jeopardizing the repu-
tation of the mines, and leaving their owners on the verge
of bankruptcy. The Penobscot is a large vein of quartz,
which assays $10.00 in gold per ton. A large amount of
excavation has been done near the surface, but no great
depth has been attained. The property is now in the
hands of Edwin Van Cise of Dead wood.
The Salmon mine, situated about two miles north of
Custer, was located by Messrs. Peterson and Woodward in
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 401
1880. This mine attained early celebrity, for the extraor-
dinary richness of the ore at the surface, and the many free
gold specimens it produced. No mill was ever erected on
the property, which is owned by the Gold Fish Mining Co.,
and is now in charge of Joseph Pilcher, of Caster.
The Atlantic mine was located in 1879 by Henry Frank-
lin. This mine, too, was justly famous for its free gold
specimens, which were claimed to be the richest ever found
in the Black Hills. The mine is now owned by John
Wright, of Custer, and Jack McAIeer, of Dead wood. No
mill has been erected on the property.
The Old Bill mine, situated about four and one-half miles
northerly from Custer, was located in May, 1879, by Rich-
ard Holiday, Ralph Kenyon, and H. N. Ross, the latter
having charge of the mine. The Old Bill is a large, tine
vein of quartz, assaying twelve dollars in gold per ton.
While there is no mill on the ground, the ore has been
milled with good profit. The mine has a shaft sixty feet
deep.
The Old Charlie mine was located in July, 1879, by Chas.
Holmes and A. Sampson. This property, which consists of
three claims, is situated about four miles west of Custer.
There are numerous openings on the property, the main
working shaft which is about one hundred and fifty feet
deep, is a double compartment incline, five and a half by
nine feet in ore from the surface downwards. A twenty-
stamp mill, and steam hoist are erected on the property,
and a great deal of ore has been milled, with excellent
results ; the ore yielding from five dollars to twenty-one
dollars in gold per ton. The property is owned by W. N.
Olds and his associates, of New York, and is under the
supervision of W. N. Olds, of Custer. When operated on
the extensive scale contemplated by the management, the
property will doubtless add largely to the gold production
of the Hills.
The Lightning mine is another of the famous mines of the
early days. This mine, which was located in July, 1879, by
26
402 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Frank Weatherby and J. Juderine, is a fine vein of quartz —
true fissure in character, and seven feet in width at the
one hundred foot level. Since its first discovery the prop-
erty has changed hands several times, but is now owned,
for the most part, by Leopold Dole, of Omaha, and Henrj'
Schenek, of Custer. The mine has changed its original
name, and is now known as the North Star mine. The
owners of the property — which is now being rapidly de-
veloped— design the erection of complete reduction works
in the early spring. The ore is reputed to be very rich.
The May Flower mine, situated about four miles west from
Custer City, on a small tributary of French creek, was first
located in 1879, by James McShearer and John P. Forau,
of Custer. This mine, which has been quite extensively
developed, has a large vein of medium grade, and a three-
foot vein of high-grade ore. In 1884 a ten-stamp mill was
erected on the property, which, after making a short run,
closed down, owing to the impossibility of saving the gold
by amalgamation. The assay, by Telluride test, runs from
$12.00 to $15.00 in gold per ton of ore. The present
owners are J. P. Foran, John Durst, and Harry Paland.
Among the most promising of the recent discoveries in
Custer County are the " Spokane," " Lizzie," " Bonanza,"
" Granite Reef" and " Union Hill " mines. The Spokane
mine, located by Sylvester Judd in 1891, is situated about
sixteen miles east of Custer City and twelve miles from
Hermosa, on the F. E. & M. V. Railway. This mine has
a shaft 100 feet in depth, and a number of connecting
drifts. The vein proper, which is about fourteen feet in
width, is of medium-grade ore, except four feet of the
center or core, which runs quite uniformly twenty ounces in
silver and from 35 to 40 per cent in lead to the ton. The
property now belongs to the Crown Hill Mining Co., which
in addition to this property, is operating extensively in the
northern Hills.
The Lizzie mine, located in 1897 by Frank and Ford
McLaughlin, of Custer, constitutes one of the claims
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 403
which comprise a large group, now owned by an incor-
porated stock company, the greater part of the stock being
held by citizens of Le Mars, Iowa. The development con-
sists of a ninety-five-foot tunnel, and 100-foot shaft, at
the bottom of which the mine shows a vein of nine feet,
incased in walls of quartzite. The ore runs from $6.00
to $40.00 in gold, and two per cent copper to the ton.
The company are preparing to ship the product to a
smelter for treatment.
The Bonanza mine, situated on Mineral Ridge, three and
a half miles west of Custer, has four shafts, the deepest of
which is sixty-five feet. This group of claims is owned by
H. G. Butterfield & Bro. of Custer.
The Granite Reef mine, situated two miles southeast
from Custer, has a fifty-foot shaft, and a tunnel 300 feet
in length. The ore of this mine carries two per cent of
copper, and from $12.00 to $46.00 in- gold to the ton, the
vein being nine feet in width. The property is owned by
James Deraereau, C. W. Robbins, and A. T. Feay, of
Custer City.
The Union Hill mine, situated about three miles west
from Custer, has a shaft forty-five feet in depth and a tun-
nel 300 feet in length. The vein is eight feet in width, and
assays well in gold. The property is owned by Henry A.
Albion of Custer City.
There are numerous other gold mines of bright promise
in Custer County, which with the application of proper
treatment, will, doubtless, yield handsome profits to their
owners. The gold in these veins is readily obtained by the
chlorination or cyanide process, but the ore is only to a
limited extent adapted to the free milling methods. It
only lacks an abundance of capital to transform that region
into one of the most productive districts in the Black Hills.
THE MICA MINES OF CUSTER COUNTY.
For several years after the beginning of the last decade,
the Mica mining industry constituted an important factor
404 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
in the business economy of Custer County, to which region
of the Hills that mineral is principally confined. In fact
it is only in the lofty granite mountains of the Harney
range, surrounding Custer City, that mica in merchant-
able form has been found. Strangely enough, although
the whole granite region glittered brightly with mica, but
little attention was given to it as a commercial commodity
until about 1880, when the attention of miners was attracted
to the mineral as a possible factor of industrial enterprise,
by encountering large blocks, easily separable into sheets,
in the development of goldmines.
. The first workable mica mine, it is claimed, was located
as a gold mine in 1879, by Geo. Clark, about three and one-
half miles northwest of Custer, Since its first discovery
the mine has doubtless changed hands a few times, and has
been known under various appellations, but is now known
as the McMaken mine. It was at one time owned by Messrs.
Offenbacher & Haight, who took from the mine from
$75,000.00 to $100,000.00 worth of fine merchantable mica.
Perhaps the most remarkable as well as the most pro-
ductive deposit of mica discovered is a mine known as the
Lost Bonanza, situated about two miles north of Custer,
on the abrupt slope of Buckhorn Mountain, and located
by L. C. La Barre, in 1880. Soon after its location, sold
to the New Mexico & Dakota Mica Mining Company, com-
posed of Chicago capitalists, which from July, 1881, to
March, 1882, took from the mine 24,000 pounds of splen-
did mica. This may seem a small amount to produce in a
period of eight months, but let it be remembered that a
vast deal of heavy granite rock has to be removed to reach
the mica, and when found only about seven per cent of the
whole is merchantable. The market price of the product
varied according to quality and demand, ranging from
$2.00 to $12.00 per pound. It was hinted about that time,
it is recalled, that this corporation so controlled and
manipulated the mica market, as to render its production
wholly unprofitable to small operators.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 405
A few of the mauy other mica locations are the " Cli-
max," " Now York," " White Spar," " Window Light,"
"Eureka," "Grand View," "Old Mike," and "Last
Find," all of which were more or less developed into
very promising properties. The Eureka, six miles north-
east of Custer, near Harney's Peak, attained especial
celebrity for the Inrge sheets of mica it produced, some of
which measured eight by ten square inches, without a Haw
or defect.
None of these mines are now being operated, and the
reason assigned by those in a position to know is that the
market is controlled by a trust in such a way as to bar out
all mica that does not pass directly through its hands, thus
rendering the production of the mineral unprofitable.
The same is true of the mining of tin, which, according
to the expressed opinion of tin experts, exists in paying
quantities in the granite hills of Custer County, but which
is at present impossible to get upon the market. It is
confidently expected by mine owners that changed con-
ditions and a growing demand will revive both of these
industries at no distant day.
CUSTER CITY.
Custer City, the primary metropolis of the Black
Hills — much of whose early history has been hereinbe-
fore recorded, — is finely situated, at an elevation of 5,5(50
feet above the level of the sea, on the upper valley of
French creek, near the center, east and west of what has
been designated Custer's Park, than which no spot more
alluring and grandly picturesque is to be found in the whole
magnificent Black Hills domain.
From the margin of the park, wherein lies the pioneer
city, rise bold, lofty mountains, projecting their jagged,
naked crests far above the stately pines that clothe their
rugged slopes. On the north Buckhorn Peak, covered
from base to summit with evergreen foliage, rises up 1,000
feet above the level of the city, and sweeps around its
406 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
southern spur to within two miles of its outer limits,
describing in its curve that peculiar outline to which the
name owes its origin. On the eastern margin about two
miles away, Calamity Peak extends its bare castellated
crest 1,200 feet above the level of the valley, and away ten
miles to the northeast Harney's Peak towers in rocky
grandeur above all. On the south, near the city, the hills
rise to an elevation of perhaps 200 feet, then gradually fall
away, disclosing a fascinating view of Prospect Park, while
to the east and west widens out the beautiful valley of
French creek.
This valley was appropriately designated "Floral Valley"
by Gen. Custer, when exploring the Hills in 1874, because
of the wonderful variety and beauty of its flora. It is said
that in the blossoming season, or during the months of
June and July, as many as IGO varieties of wild flowers
may be found in bloom.
The region about Custer possesses an ideal climate full
of health-giving and iiealth-preserving properties — a
climate where epidemics are an almost unknown quantity.
The pure, invigorating air circulating through the valley,
laden with the grateful aroma of the pines, infuses new life
with every expansion of the lungs, causing the weak to
become strong, and under its balmy influence the wretched
victim of insomnia is wooed to gentle, refreshing slumber.
All one has to do is to comfortably adjust his tired anatomy
and nature speedily does the rest.
Snow rarely falls to a depth of more than six inches, nor
remains more than a few days at a time in Custer's Park,
which abounds in pure, cold, crystal springs — leaving noth-
ing to be desired by the tourist in search of health or
pleasure.
SYLVAN LAKE.
Resting peacefully in among the rugged cliffs of the
Harney range, about six miles in a northerly direction from
Custer, may be found the crowning attraction of that
407
region,
ever."
This
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS.
- Sylvan Lake," " a thing of beauty and a joy for.
.u-tistic conception was formed in 1882 by the con
struction of a massive stone dam, near the head of Sunday
tX to bar the waters of the streams that tr.ckle down
fhe mountain slopes into the basin, thus formmg an ait.fi-
cial lake of about fixteen acres in extent.
408 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
From Custer this popular resort is reached over a finely
constructed driveway, that winds its sinuous way through a
region of grandeur, beauty, and picturesqueness not sur-
passed elsewhere in this " Switzerland of America," and
after circling around a labyrinth of hills, near the limits of
the lake, it brings its visitor suddenly in full view, at its
upper side, of an exhibition of nature's and art's handi-
work combined, that would not willingly be forgotten.
On three sides the towering cliffs inclose the miniature lake
in their close, rugged embrace, while at the lower margin,
the surplus waters dash over the artificial barrier, and go
dancing and chattering gaily down the rocky incline. The
surface of the lagoon is dotted here and there with white-
winged boats, whose small keels are plowing little rippling
furrows across its bosom, or, perchance, are rocking on the
tiny waves at their moorings. Copious as is the English
tongue, it is inadequate to paint the scene in all its lights
and shades, and it is only through the eye that one can
form a true conception of the enchanting picture.
In a little recession, at the base of the water-laved crags,
inclosing the lower end of the lake, at the rijjht of the
dam, a commodious veranda-encircled hostelry has been
constructed, and provided with all modern conveniences
for the entertainment of guests who are there supplied with
a cuisine that would challenge the criticism of the most
fastidious epicure. It is from the veranda of this hotel
that the best view of the lagoon and its environments can
be obtained.
CUSTER IN 1877.
Custer, on entering its third year of history, found
itself, prostrate, but purified, in the midst of its grand
surroundings. Of the thousands of eager, reckless for-
tune-hunters, who had departed during the previous
year, in pursuit of the " elusive phantom," but few
had returned, as the hundreds of tenantless buildings gave
pathetic testimony, buildings which were afterward from
time to time torn down and converted into fuel.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 409
For the few subsequent years the population of Custer
fluctuated, varying from fifty or sixty to 400. On the re-
turn of Gen. Crook from his summer campaign against the
Indians in the fall of 1876, his command camped at Custer
for a time, which brought back a few of the stampeders
from Deadwood, and also attracted to that point a con-
siderable number of new-comers to the Hills, increasing
the population to about 400, which, owing to new excite-
ments in other portions of the Hills, again diminished,
until, on September 5th, 1878, there were, it is said, by
actual census, only thirty-seven men, eleven women, and
as many children, fifty-seven persons all told, in the pio-
neer city of the Black Hills. From that time it again
began to slowly expand until in 1881 it contained a perma-
nent population of 400, from which date the stability of
Custer became an assured fact.
Among those who pinned their faith to Custer for the
most time during its early years of vicissitudes and dis-
couraging fluctuations were, first : Thos. Hooper, D. W.
Flick^ Sam'l K. Shankland, D. K. Snively in 1875, then
H. A. Albion, E. G. Peirce, T. H. Harvey, W. H. Har-
low, Ernest Schleunning, Sam'l Booth, Frank B. Smith, A.
B. Hughes, A. Yerkes, J. C. Saunders, Capt. Haserodt,
and others all of whom may be accounted among the first
permanent settlers of Custer (let it be remembered that
there was little permanency in Custer before 1877) — and
the determination and early efforts of these men were
largely instrumental in giving Custer its prestige of to-day.
The first postmaster of the U. S. Postal Service in Cus-
ter was Thos. H. Harvey; the second, J. S. Bartholomew ;
the third on the list was Frank B. Smith; the fourth, S. R.
Shankland, followed by H. A. Albion.
The first school in Custer, as well as in the Black Hills,
was taught during the summer of 1876 by Miss Carrie
Scott, who is a daughter of C. A. Scott, of Spearfish. And,
by the way, Mr. Scott made the first coffin ever constructed
in the Black Hills, at Custer.
410 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
The second school taught in Custer was a tuition school
opened and taught by Jas. E. Carpenter during the winter
of 1876-7. Mr. Carpenter was a partner of Chas. Hayward
in founding the town of Hayward on Battle creek, and is
now a practicing attorney in Woonsocket, South Dakota,
where he has resided for the past seventeen years.
The town was incorporated and a patent was issued by the
government for the square mile occupied by the city in
1882.
In 1884 Custer City erected its first public school build-
ing, a fine, two-storied brick structure, separated into four
rooms, or school departments.
The number of pupils enrolled for the year 1897-8 was
174, and inasmuch as the number of children of school age
in the city numbered 265, it seems evident that increased
school accommodations will have to be provided in the near
future.
Custer's public buildings consist of a handsome brick
courthouse and jail, a fine brick public school building, and
four churches — the Methodist, Congregational, Baptist,
and Catholic.
Since the completion of the Burlington & Missouri Rail-
way to Custer, in 1890, the city has developed rapidly in
commercial importance, and its wide streets, its well-filled
squares of brick and frame business structures and numer-
ous cosy homes gives ample evidence of thrift and increas-
ing prosperity.
In addition to its complement of business houses, Custer
can boast of two flourishing banks — one National and one
State — two good hotels, a factory for the manufacture of
a mica lubrication from native product, two steam planing
mills, and other small industries incident to towns of its
class.
What is now the First National Bank of Custer was first
established as a private bank in 1881 by D. Corrigan, who
owned and managed the same until 1890, when the institu-
tion was converted into a national bank, with a capital
JOSEPH KU15LER,
Who ran through the press the first cop}' of the Black Hills Pioneer
on June 8th, 1876,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 411
stock of $50,000. The first officers of the incorporated in-
stitution were as follows: D. Corrigan, President; F. A.
Towner, Vice-President ; and W. F. Hanley, Cashier.
Both capital and officers have remained unchanged.
The Custer County Bank was organized and opened on
April 17th, 1890, with a capital stock of $25,000, with the
following officers : S. H. Mills, New York, President ; Jos.
E. Pilcher, of Custer City, Vice-President; Frank R.
Davis, of Rapid City, Cashier; T. W. Delicate, of Custer
City, Assistant Cashier.
Subsequently Frank R. Davis died, when T. W. Delicate
was promoted to the cashiership, and D. W. Webster suc-
ceeded Joseph E. Pilcher as vice-president, so that the
present officers of the institution are : Stephen H. Mills,
of New York City, President ; Daniel W. Webster, of
Custer City, Vice-President ; Thomas W. Delicate, of Cus-
ter City, Cashier.
The press is now represented b}' the Custer Chronicle,
a wide-awake sheet, fully abreast of the enterprising com-
munity it represents. The paper was established in Decem-
ber, 1879 (the first number appearing on the third of that
month), by A. W. Merrick, of Deadwood — the pioneer
newspaper man of the Black Hills. At the end of a few
months Mr. Merrick sold the paper to Messrs. Clark &
Kubler, and it is now conducted by the latter member of
the firm, Joseph Kubler. Mr. Kubler is entitled to the
distinction of having run through the press the first copy
of the Black Hills Pioneer, issued in Deadwood in June,
1876.
Custer, is supplied with a splendid water service, is well
lighted by electricity, and has a present population of from
800 to 1,000 people.
For several years subsequent to the advent of the rail-
road, Custer was the largest lumber shipping station in the
Black Hills — shipping more, it is claimed, than all other
Black Hills towns combined. In 1895 there were in that
region twenty steam sawmills in active operation, employ-
412 THK BLACK HILLS; OR,
ins: an asfgresrate of 250 men. There were also two steam
planing mills in constant operation then as now. Though
the stringent restrictions wisely imposed upon the cut-
tinff of timber from oroveriiment lands has inflicted a
severe blow to that important industry in the pioneer city,
the ever-increasing value of the mining interest, and stock-
raising industry in the region about, will buoy it on to the
substantial success it so richly deserves.
During the years 1877-8-9, as before stated, the settle-
ments of the Hills were constantly beset by an organized
gang of laborers, whose sole occupation was to round up
all horses found at the end of lariat ropes or running
loose, and they plied their avocation with a zeal and per-
sistency highly creditable to their calling, and they were
not in the least particular as to their color, pedigree, or
ownership.
Custer's citizens did not wholly escape their vigilance,
as the subjoined story will illustrate: —
It was one evening during the month of April, that Wm.
H. Harlowe, now a resident of Spearfish, mounted his
horse, and just as the shadows began to fall, rode away
from Custer City in the direction of Dead wood carrying on
his person a considerable quantity of French creek gold-
dust for shipment at the latter place, — there being no safe
way to ship from Custer City at the time. The gold, it
may be proper to state, belonged partly to himself and
partly to Samuel Booth of Custer City. After riding
seventeen miles, mostly under cover of darkness, he
reached what is known as Gillette's ranch, where he
picketed his horse and put up for the night, under the
hospitable roof of Mr. Gillette. In the morning, to his
extreme chagrin, he found his horse missing — lariat and
all. He borrowed a horse of the proprietor of the ranch,
and after giving an order to be sent to Custer for another
horse, to be used on his return, he resumed his journey with
his valuable treasure, on the keen lookout for ambushed
highwaymen along the way.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 413
On his return from Dcadwood, Mr. Harlow found that
the horse brouo-ht from Custer during his absence had
also been spirited away the night before his arrival. He
sent word to Custer to have a posse put at once on the
414 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
trail of the tbief or thieves, and the men after follow-
ing up a clue for two days finally traced the guilty party
to the vicinity of Custer at ten o'clock p. ra., when senti-
nels were immediately posted on all the roads leading from
the city.
Mr. Harlow and John Halley, a brother of James Halley
of the First National Bank of Rapid City (everybody in
the Hills knows James Halley, if they don't they ought
to), — well, Harlow and Halley, the former armed with a
Springfield rifle and the latter with a shot-gun, rode out on
the Cheyenne road, in the midst of a terrific thunderstorm,
to look for their man. The very blackness of darkness
prevailed, save when the lurid glare of the lightning's play
illuminated their surroundings. They had not gone more
than a half-mile when thev discerned throuoh the gloom an
approaching horseman, who was ordered to halt when about
twenty feet away, but receiving no satisfactory response
to the call, Mr. Harlow leveled his rifle at the unknown, at
the same time ordering him to " hold up his hands." Just at
that moment a brilliant flash of lightning revealed the man
with a revolver pointed directly at them. Both fired almost
simultaneously, the ball from the revolver inflicting a severe
wound on Mr. Harlow's hand, the eff'ects of which he
bears to this day. After the interchange of shots, the
stranger turned his horse and fled, followed by a storm of
shot from Mr. Halley 's gun. Five days later the man was
buried on Castle creek, about twelve miles north of
Custer, having died from the effect of the gunshot wounds
received in his flight. The man proved to be a " pal " —
that's what they call it, I believe, of the notorious Albert
Spears, who was, and perhaps is now, in prison for his
complicity in the memorable Cold Springs stage robbery.
HERMOSA.
Hermosa is an enterprising little agricultural hamlet,
situated on Battle creek outside of the foot-hills, on the
line of the F. E. & M. V. Railroad. The town was organ-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
415
ized in 1888, and contains a population of 125 souls; has
three stores of general merchandise, three church orojaniza-
tions, a creditable school building, and a good school
separated into an upper and primary grade.
Buffalo Gap, situated on the line of the Fremont, Elk-
horn and Missouri Valley Railway, at a point where a branch
road leaves the main line for Hot Springs, originated at the
time of the advent of that line to the Hills, and was, per-
haps is still, an important eating station of the line. The
town is noted chiefly for the extensive quarries of different
varieties and colors of fine sandstone found in its vicinity,
large quantities of which product have found a ready
market in some of the Eastern cities. Other places of
more or less importance in Custer County are: Fairburn,
Folsom, Otis, Spokane, Berne, Mayo, Pringle, Argyle,
Wind Cave, Bakerville, and Westford.
416 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XXIX.
PENNINGTON COUNTY.
Pennington County, the only one of the three counties
into which the Black Hills was first separated that has
preserved its original territory nearly intact, occupies
geographically a central position, extending eighty miles
in length east and west, by twenty miles north and south,
comprising an area of 1,600 square miles. The base line
of the Hills survey on the forty-fourth parallel of north
latitude passes through the county at equi-distance from its
north and south boundary lines, as defined under an act
of the Territorial Legislature, approved in February, 1877.
The boundary line between Pennington and Custer coun-
ties was not definitely established until November 12th,
1881, as was stated in my treatment of Custer County.
Pennington County is divided into two nearly equal por-
tions of mountainous and open country, the western half
embracing the entire timbered area, the eastern half com-
prising the prairie region, and for the most part the broad,
fertile valleys of the streams draining the county including
some of the great cattle ranges on the south branch of the
Cheyenne river. The western or mountainous portion is
heavily timbered with an excellent quality of pine timber
interspersed with patches of spruce, fir, birch, oak, aspen,
and willow, with the exception that here and there within
the timber line are found quite extensive areas of open
prairie land, elevated from 4,500 to 6,000 feet above the
plane of the sea, while the eastern or open portion is almost
wholly destitute of trees of any kind, save those fringing
the borders of the larger streams.
About one-third of the great granite region of the Hills,
including Harney's Peak, is within the limits of Pennington
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 417
County. This dominant peak of the Black Hills, which is
situated about twenty-three miles as the crow flies, south-
west from Rapid City, can plainly be seen through the hazy
distance from the foot-hills southwest and southeast of the
city, proudly lifting its gray coronel into the hovering
clouds above the lesser jagged peaks and battlements of
the granite uplift. Some of the wildest, grandest scenery
of the Hills is to be found among the rugged mountains
and along the canyons of the streams in Pennington
County — notably the canyons of Box Elder and Rapid
creeks. The principal streams draining the area of the
county are the Box Elder, Rapid, and Spring creeks. The
Box Elder enters the county near the center of the north
boundary line, crossing the northeast portion, rarely,
however, carrying any surface water beyond the foot-hills.
Rapid creek, the longest stream having its source in the
Hills, gathers its headwaters near the boundary line of
Dakota and Wyoming, and traverses the entire length of
the county in a southeasterly direction to the Cheyenne
river, to which it contributes a considerable volume of
water throughout the year. Rapid creek is in its entirety
a Pennington County stream, running its whole length of
100 miles within the limits of the county.
Spring creek, in the southwestern part of the county,
runs for the most of its course parallel with Rapid creek,
then passes into Custer County at the southeast corner of
Township 2, Range 9 east, its entire course being about
eighty miles. It is a copious stream carrying a handsome
volume of water beyond the foot-hills.
The upper waters of Battle creek are also in Pennington
County. It rises on the northeast slope of the Harney
range and after running ten miles through the roughest
portion of the county, it passes into Custer County, and
discharges its waters during wet seasons into the Cheyenne
river, but like Box Elder and Spring creeks its waters
disappear in dry seasons when near the foot-hills.
The valley of the Cheyenne river along the eastern border
27
418 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
of the county is tor the most part narrow with high pre-
cipitous bluffs, and includes a portion of the famous Bad
Lands of South Dakota.
Pennington County, although the smallest of the three
original counties in superficial area, is by no means the
least important in point of varied resources. It has been
conclusively demonstrated, that in the " mineral belt,"
within the limits of the county, there exist extensive
ledges of rich mineral bearing rock, and, while operations
in quartz mining have as yet been limited, there are being
developed to-day some of the richest mines of free milling
gold ore yet found in the Black Hills, and the county may
be ranked as an easy second in the actual gold production
of the Hills. While there have been failures in mining
operations in the county, there are doubtless millions of
gold locked in the natural vaults of its mountains, awaiting
capital and judicious management to bring it to the surface.
COUNXr ORGANIZATION.
By a provision of the act of the territorial legislature de-
fining the boundaries of Pennington County, the Governor
appointed three commissioners to organize county govern-
ment and locate the county seat. The appointees were :
R. H. Vosburg, M. M. Fuller, and Edwin Loveland, the
latter not arriving in time to qualify, the office was declared
vacant, and Samuel H, Coats was appointed to fill the
vacancy.
The whole roster of the first otficers of the county were :
Commissioners: R. H. Vosburg, M. M. Fuller, and Samuel
H. Coats; Probate Judge, E. C. Peters; Register of
Deeds, J. R. Hanson; Sheritf, Frank P. Moulton; Clerk
of Courts, Leonard W. Bell; Treasurer, ; District
Attorney, F. J. Washabaugh; Superintendent of Public
Instruction, John R. Brennan ; Surveyor, S. H. Coats.
Strangely enough, important as the ofiice is, there was
no Treasurer appointed by the Governor; at least the rec-
ords make no mention of one — only stating that on May
A DISTANT VIEW OF HARXEY's PEAK FROM A POINT OX THE
BURLINGTON RAILWAY.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 419
9th, 1877, at Sheridan, E. C. Peters resigned as Probate
Judge, and on same day was appointed Treasurer, a
vacancy existing.
The first meeting of the Board of County Commissioners
was held at Rapid City, April 19th, 1877, the second on
April 20th, on which date the county seat was located at
Sheridan.
The first meeting at Sheridan was held May 7th, 1877,
at which session the county was named Pennington, in
honor of John L. Pennington, then Governor of the Terri-
tory of Dakota.
At the election in November, Rapid City was made the
permanent county seat by popular vote, and the first meet-
ing of the Board of Commissioners at the permanent capi-
tal was held November 21st, 1877. Large sums were ex-
pended by the county in public improvements, such as
surveying and improving roads, building bridges, etc., the
principal roads laid out being from Rapid City to the
Cheyenne river, Custer and Rochford, and from the latter
place to Hill City via Castleton.
In five years from the time of organization, the county
had an assessed valuation of $570,000, a total indebtedness
of $42,450, and a population of 4,000. In 1897 it had an
assessed valuation of $763,000, a total indebtedness of
$208,858 and a population of 9,000 approximately.
In 1881 the county built its first courthouse — a fine two
and a half story brick structure, at a cost of $12,000, for
the payment of which county bonds were issued to run
ten years at seven per cent interest, which bonds were
fully redeemed on maturity. There were subsequently
other quite heavy expenditures in the equipment of the
jail, the planting of trees and the improvement of the
courthouse square.
Pennington County's first courthouse has an unfortu-
nate, as well as a somewhat singular history. On the night
of April 25th, 1897, despite the heroic efforts of the fire
department, the handsome brick structure was burned from
420 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
dome nearly to foundation, only the lower portions of the
outer walls remaining. Only by encountering great risk,
did the county oflScials, with the efficient aid of other citi-
zens, succeed in rescuing the valuable records from the
flames. The building was covered by an insurance of
$10,000.
In the adjustment of damages, the insurance company
in lieu of paying the amount of insurance in money, assumed
the responsibility of restoring the building to its former
condition, and entered into contract for that purpose with
Thos. Sweeney, Hugh McMahon, and Mike Whealen, who
rapidly pushed forward the work of rebuilding. As if by
the irony of fate, on the night of November 10th, when the
building was on the eve of completion, it again took fire in
some mysterious manner and was consumed to the founda-
tion as before. With admirable pluck and determination,
the contractors cleared away the burning debris, and with-
out loss of time began the work of rebuilding though on a
somewhat different, but improved plan, the half-story being
left off by the consent of the commissioners and an addi-
tional ground room added. On the 15th day of May, 1898,
the structure was completed and ready for occupancy, and
any one visiting the capital of Pennington County to-day
will find, delightfully embowered among trees, a handsome
two-story brick courthouse, surmounted by a dome, and
complete in every detail of its appointments, in the rear of
which is a substantial, well-equipped two-story brick jail
building in the same inclosure.
THE COUNTY SEAT.
Rapid City, the county seat, has more than fulfilled the
hopeful predictions of its founders, of whom it may be
said that they " builded better than they knew." Its
numerous beautiful homes, environed by well-kept lawns
and shaded avenues; its many commodious and some even
elegant church edifices, and its well-equipped educational
institutions ; its fine two and three story brick business
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
421
blocks, and broad well-paved streets ; its splendid water
service and electric lighting of to-day certainly more than
realizes the wildest dreams of the few men who bravely
RAPID CITY IN 1878.
defended their rude log cabin homes from the warlike
Sioux in 1876.
While the growth of Rapid City has not been, perhaps,
as rapid as the current of the beautiful stream upon which
it is situated, and from which it took its name, it has been
422 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
steady and sure. From the time it was made the perma-
nent county seat in November, 1877, dates its substantial
growth. Business about that time began to move from
Rapid to Main street where a number of quite pretentious
frame buildings were erected during the years 1877-8,
among which was Lewis Hall, a two-storied building put
up by Wm. Lewis, now deceased, and the old landmark
still stands in a good state of preservation — a monument
to the enterprise of one of Rapid City's first permanent
settlers.
SCHOOLS.
The first school in Rapid City was opened and taught
by Miss Vena LeGro, afterwards Mrs. Wm. Steele, whose
husband was one of the founders of Rapid City.
The first postmaster of the regular postal service in Rapid
City was J. R. Brennan, who was also the first Superin-
tendent of Schools of Pennington County.
School District No. 1 of Pennington County was organized
in January, 1878, after which schools were taught in rented
buildings until 1881, when the first public school building
of the county was erected in Rapid City. This soon prov-
ing to be inadequate to accommodate the children of the
growing community, it was decided, at an election held in
August of that year, that the district issue bonds for the
purpose of raising money to build a more commodious
house. Accordingly bonds were issued and in 1882 the
present two and one-half storied brick structure was erected
at a cost of $12,000. In the plat of the town a large num-
ber of lots were reserved to provide a fund which proved
ample for current school expenditures at that time.
The old frame school-house stands to-day on Kansas
Citj'^ street between 5th and 6th streets, whither it was
removed from its original location, and is now used for
divers purposes, chiefly as a carpenter's shop; and just
across the way, on the opposite side of the street, is an-
other old building, badly warped out of all its original
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
423
symmetry, and leaning reverently to\vard3 the rising sun,
beariucr on its weather-beaten facade the legend, " Felix
Poznansky, Dry Goods, Boots & Shoes, «fec.," where it has
stood bravely defying the elements for lo, these many
years. This building, which was removed from the busi-
ness thoroughfare of the city to its present locality, was
one of the earliest and most flourishing dry-goods houses
in Eapid City, established and owned by the gentleman
whose honored name appears on the legend. Ah, what
tales these old landmarks tell of the struggles and aspira-
tions of our early settlers !
The first religious organization in Rapid City was a
Union Aid Society, organized in August, 1878 (perhaps a
few months earlier) by Rev. J. W. Pickett, who had been
emploved by the Home Missionary Society in organizing
the Rocky Mountain District, in which was included the
Black Hills. This society was first composed of members
of diverse creeds and religious proclivities, perhaps fifteen
in number, the major part of whom subsequently came into
communion with the Congregational Church, which society
has now a commodious house of worship, and is in point
of numbers and financial standing the most flourishing in
the city. , , , , •
The first Methodist Episcopal services were heki in
March, 1878, by Rev. H. H. Jones; no organization, how-
ever, was eff'ected at that time.
In December, 1880, Rev. Jas. Williams and Rev. Ira
Wakefield resumed the work begun by Rev. Jones, and in
March, 1881, a church was organized and Mrs. C. D.
Crandall appointed a class-leader.
A Catholic church was organized in 1881, and soon after
their present church building was erected.
The Episcopal church society was formed in the summer
of 1886, and their present church edifice completed in
1888, which was followed successively by the Presbyterian,
Lutheran, and Baptist churches.
The press is represented in Rapid City by three news-
424 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
papers, the Journal, the Republican, and the Black Hills
Union.
The Black Hills Journal appeared on the newspaper
stage, and made its initial bow to the Rapid City public, on
January 5th, 1878, and has ever since continued to make
its weekly appearance with unfailing regularity. In 1886
a daily issue of the paper appeared under the title of the
Rapid City Daily Journal, since which time both a daily
and weekly have been published, the news of the latter
being condensed from the columns of the former, for
country circulation.
How ably the Journal has enacted its di/Bcult role is
better attested by its extensive patronage and long contin-
uance, than can be expressed by mere words. For twenty
years it has faithfully represented the best interests of the
Gate City, ever striving to mould for their betterment the
sentiment of its people. The enterprise was established by
Joseph B. Gossage, its present proprietor, and George
Darrow. At the time, or soon after its establishment, the
paper came under the able editorial management of Richard
B. Hughes, who is entitled to the distinction of being the
first newspaper reporter in the Black Hills, having served
in that capacity for the Black Hill, Weekly Pioneer in
1876 (see Chapter of First Events). The paper is at pres-
ent, and has been for a number of years, conducted solely
by Mr. and Mrs. Gossage, the latter of whom is a whole
voluminous newspaper in herself. The Journal has the
distinction of being the first newspaper published in Rapid
City, and of having had the first contract for the printing
of Pennington County.
The Rapid City liepublican was established by a corpo-
ration of Rapid City capitalists organized by Messrs. Fowler,
Halley, Simmons, Henry, Coad, and others, in 1884,
since which time the j^aper has had a somewhat checkered
career. The corporation purchased the printing outfit of a
" Democratic " paper published by James Boyd, under the
title of the Index. The first on the roster of the editors of
RICHARD B. HUGHES,
Reporter for the Black Hills Wi:(lhj Pioneer in 1876 and one of its
compositors.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 425
the Republican was I. R. Crow — present proprietor of the
Bald Mountain Neivs — the second was W. H. Mitchell,
who was followed in regular sequence by Byers, Simmons,
Soott, Bishop, McManus, Williams, and Wallace, all well
remembered in Rapid City. The present editors are
Messrs. Mills & Wise, former publishers of the Hermosa
Pilot. The building and plant is still owned by the Repub-
lican Publishing Co., the press outfit being leased to the
present proprietors. The Republican was first issued as a
weekly publication, changing to a daily in 1885, and again
to a weekly in 1892, but whether daily or weekly, it has
always, politically, been published in the interest of the
Republican party.
The Black Hills Union is an outgrowth of the Black
Hills Weekly Democrat, published in Rapid City, by G.
W. Barrows, in 1887-8. The paper and outfit then passed
into the hands of Shelby D. Reed & Co., by which company
it was conducted for several years. In 1896 it was pub-
lished as a political campaign paper, under its present title,
by Gird & McManus, the latter severing his connection
with the concern at the close of the campaign, leaving it in
the hands of its present proprietor, A. W. Gird. The
Black Hills Union is a spicy little sheet published in advo-
cacy of equal rights and free silver, and what Art. doesn't
know about free silver and 16 to 1 is not really worth
knowing.
The first marriage in Rapid City was that of Wm. F,
Steele and Miss Vena LeGro, in November, 1877. The
important ceremony was performed by Judge Granville G.
Bennett, the first judge of the first Black Hills District
Court.
The first child born in Rapid City was born to Mr. and
Mrs. Osceola Chase in the summer of 1877.
LIBRARY ASSOCIATION.
An example of the enterprise and progression by which
the citizens were actuated, is furnished by the organiza-
426 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
tion, at an early date, of an association iiaving for its
object the intellectual and social welfare of its people.
The first steps in that direction were taken on the evening
of September 22, 1880, by a few socially inclined spirits,
who had met to discuss some plan of amusement for winter
nights, and the outcome was the organization of the Rapid
City Library Association. J. B. Gossage, W. H. Mitchell,
and W. F. Manning were appointed a committee to
draught a constitution and by-laws, and at a subsequent
meeting the organization was perfected. A room was first
leased for temporary use and the success of the venture
proved so satisfactory that in the spring of 1881, the
present Library Hall was designed and built. Land at the
northwest corner of Kansas City and Sixth streets was
donated by John R. Brennan for a site, and during the
summer of 1881 the present structure was completed.
The building was designed for a reading-room, library, and
theatricals.
The initiation fee to the association was originally
placed at $9.00, which entitled the member to the use of
the books of the library until 1890, without further dues.
The library contains 500 volumes of biograph}', poetry,
science, and fiction.
Since its building Library Hall has served the people of
Rapid City well; not only for the purposes originally con-
templated, but for all sorts of functions, political, educa-
tional, and social ; for the lecture, the concert, and dance.
For eighteen years her beauty and her chivalry have gath-
ered there and joined in the " giddy mazes " to enchanting
strains. Periodically, for eighteen years the leaders of the
opposing political factions have thundered out their respec-
tive partisan creeds from its boards; whence the changes
have again and again been rung on the whole political
gamut, of free trade, protection, free silver, the single
gold standard, and other political issues — each uttering
prophetic warnings against the dangerous dogmas of their
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 427
opponents, as tending tq undermine and utterly overthrow
our free institutions. Yet, strange as it may seem, our
" Republic still lives," and old Library Hall stands.
SECRET ORDERS.
The preliminary organization of Rapid City Lodge A. F.
and A. M. was effected May 16th, 1881, and the first regu-
lar communication of the order was held at Masonic Hall,
September 2nd, 1882. The organization was soon after
perfected, and the lodge is now in a flourishing condition,
with handsomely furnished rooms for the meetings of the
order. There are now also, large lodges of the I. O. O. F.,
Knights of Pythias, A. O. U. W., The Eastern Star,
Daughters of Rebecca, and perhaps other lodges, with
well-fitted commodious rooms.
MANUFACTURING.
The first flouring mill in Rapid City was built in 1883 by
Lampert & Co., in the gap of the Hills, about a half mile
west of the business portion of the city. For several years
or until 1890 it was the only plant for the manufacture of
flour in the city, when it was supplemented by the plant of
the Rapid River Milling Co.
The Rapid River Milling Co. completed its plant on
February 1st, 1890, and commenced operations under the
directorship of R. C. Lake, D. H. Clark, G. Schnasse, Jas.
Halley, Jas. W. Fowler, W. A. Wager and John J. Mc-
Namara. The present officers of the company are G. G.
Schnasse, President; Jas. W. Fowler, Vice-President;
Jas. Halley, Treasurer; John J. McNamara, Secretary and
General Manager.
The plant is operated by water power, uses a full roller
process, and has a capacity of 150 pounds of flour per day.
The plant has established a wide reputation for the manu-
facture of Superior flour.
428 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHLORINATION WORKS.
The Rapid City Chloiination plant was established in
1890 by the Black Hills Milling & Smelting Co. at an orig-
inal cost of $125,000. The works were put in operation
on ore taken from the Welcome mine in the vicinity of
Deadwood, under the management of Robt. Thorburn, but
for some reason the enterprise proved a losing venture, as,
after running in a kind of intermittent way for a period of
perhaps a year, the works closed down, and the property
went into the hands of the First National Bank of Rapid
City. Whether the ore was not adapted to the process, or
the process suited to that particular ore, or for some other
reason, is not clear.
After lying idle for five years the plant was purchased
by a Colorado company, of which Col. M. H. Day, of
Rapid City, is president — under whose management the
old works have undergone complete repairs, and other
improved machinery added to make the process a success.
The plan of the new management contemplates the erection
of a smelter to be run in connection with the chlorinutiou
works. The smelter is to be of 240 tons capacity, and
built of steel, the contract for the construction of which
has been awarded to the Colorado Iron Works of Denver,
Colorado. The plant, when completed, will operate, in
part, on ore taken from the Gilt Edge mine, in Two-Bit
gulch, owned by M. H. Day & Son, and in part on custom
ore. It is estimated that there are 100,000 tons of low
grade ore in sight in the Gilt Edge mine that will average
from $16 to $25 per ton. This, however, is said to be the
lowest grade of ore in the mine. The success of the enter-
prise promises a long pay-roll and better times for Rapid
City.
THE RAPID CITY WATER SYSTEM.
The first movement towards supplying Rapid City with
water was made in 1883 or 4 by an organization known as the
Rapid City Water Co., of which C. W. Robbins was presi-
^i-
._s»..
i-l-
'J^^
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 429
dent, M. Cameron, treasurer, and Sam'l Scott, secretary.
The desio-n was to bring the water from what is known as
Cleghorn Springs, five miles west of the city, the company
having negotiated for their purchase from the owner.
An effort was made to secure a franchise from the city
without success, — at least there was no binding action
taken, the council wisely deciding that the better plan
would be for the city to own the system. At a meeting of
the council on March 5th, 1895, the city engineer, M.
Wiltsie, reported a plan for a system at an estimated cost
of $45,000. The council decided to submit the question of
issuing bonds and constructing the system to the voters of
the municipality. Meetings were held at Library Hall to dis-
cuss the question, and present to the people the advantages
of the system. At the first meeting on March 20, 1885,
Messrs. Simmons, Poznanska, Haft, Hay ward, Sweeney,
and Clark were appointed a committee to report a plan and
estimate cost. At a meeting on March 24 the committee
reported, recommending the reservoir system, stating that
$45,000 was not an overestimate of cost of such a system,
which report was approved. The special election held on
the 28th resulted in 200 in favor to three in opposition to
the issuing of bonds. At the municipal election, which
occurred soon after, the enterprise received the further ap-
proval of the voters by the election of James Halley, who
had been active in favor of the scheme, to the mayoralty, and
Felix Poznansky, L. L. Davis, and F. H. Mohr, to the
council, all of whom were in hearty approval of the enter-
prise.
On July 25th, 1885, the city entered into contract with
the Northwestern Water and Gas Supply Company of
Minneapolis to put in a system in accordance with the
plan, including the construction of a reservoir within the
city limits. This reservoir was located on the eastern
slope, near the summit of Hangman's Hill, at an elevation
of 188 feet above the city, and had a capacity of 375,986
ofallons.
430
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
BEECHER'S rocks, near CUSTER.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 431
By the terms of the contract, which was carefully drawn
by Jas. W. Fowler, the system was to be finished for fire
purposes by January 5th, 1886, and for all purposes by
July 1st of that year, but, owing to delay in the arrival of
material, and the failure of subcontractors to complete
their work, there was default in both specifications. Not
until sixty days after the signing of the contract did the
first material arrive on the ground. Lewis Harper, the
superintendent of construction, arrived on September 4th,
and ground was broken on September 13th, 1885. That
was before the advent of railroads to the Hills, and all the
heavy supplies for the system had to be transported by
wagon across the country from Pierre to Rapid City, a
distance of 150 miles.
To provide funds for the construction of the work, the
city first issued bonds to the amount of $45,000, payable in
twenty years at seven per cent interest. On October 2d,
1885, additional bonds were issued in the sum of $6,000,
making the issue to that time $51,000. On December 31st,
1885, the city purchased for $1,000, from Cassius M. Leedy,
the springs known as the Leedy or Limestone Springs, the
source of the water supply, three miles west of Rapid City.
Seven years later the city decided to make extensive
improvements on the system, and on July 27th, 1892, a
contract was let for the building of a large reservoir at
Limestone Springs, and a conduit line thence to the city,
the cost of which was $30,000, paid in city general fund
warrants, making the total cost of the system $81,000.
The natural flow from the springs is 540,000 gallons per
day. The pressure in the city mains is seventy-five pounds
to the square inch, and there are now over ten miles of
water mains in the system. No town in the Black Hills
can boast of a more complete water system than Rapid
City. Hundreds of thousands of gallons of pure, whole-
some water, free from all suspicion of disease germs, are
daily carried from the inexhaustible fountain head and
distributed through a perfect system of main and service
432 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
pipes to every house and nearly every business place in the
city.
RAPID CITY PUBLIC SCHOOLS.
Rapid City has good reason to feel proud of her public
schools, which in point of educational facilities and general
excellence are second to none in the State. From an
humble beginning the system has expanded into large and
encouraging proportions, with four well-equipped school
buildings, filled with an aggregate of from 450 to 500
pupils each year, presided over by a corps of capable pro-
gressive instructors. Besides the commodious three-storied
brick structure before referred to the city has three com-
fortable, well-furnished ward school buildings of frame,
two of which employ two teachers each, making a total corps
of thirteen instructors, including superintendent. The
course of study embraces an eight-year course before enter-
ing the high school and a four-years' high school course.
The high school prepares its graduates for the State Univer-
sity and State normal schools and gives thorough instruction
in all the studies included in the courses of the best high
schools of the State. The high school was established in
1885 and graduated its first class in the spring of 1886.
The high school building is provided with a library con-
tainins: 250 volumes of well selected books and more are
being added each year. The school population of the city
by the census of 1898 was 564, and school expenditures
for the term ending June, 1898, was $9,906.62.
SCHOOL OF MINES.
With the development of the mineral resources of the
Black Hills, facilities for acquiring a technical knowledge
of their rock formation, the analyses of their various kinds
of ore deposits, mining, etc., became a practical necessity.
To supply this demand, and for the purpose of encourag-
ing the production of the precious metals in the Black
Hills, the Legislature of 1885, with a wholesome regard for
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 433
the *' eternal fitness of things,'" passed an act locating the
School of Mines of the Territory of Dakota at Kapid City —
a central point, equally accessil)le to the principal mineral-
bearing portions of the Hills. This act, however, was
coupled with the proviso that, before any steps be taken
towards the construction of the buildings, a good and suffi-
cient deed, in fee-simple, be made by Rapid City to the
Territory of Dakota, for a tract of land not less than five
acres in extent, within, or immediately adjacent to the city
limits.
For the purpose of providing funds for the construction
of the main building of the School of Mines, the territorial
treasurer was authorized to issue $10,000 of territorial
bonds, running for a period of twenty years, and payable
at the option of the Territory, after a term of ten years,
bearing interest at the rate of six per cent per annum, —
coupons payable semi-annually at the Chemical Bank, New
York.
By an act of the Legislature of 1887, additional bonds
were authorized by the Territory to the amount of $23,000,
bearing interest at five per cent per annum, payable semi-
annually as in the first issue. The fund provided by this
last issue was appropriated as follows: —
For constructing a metallurgical laboratory on the
grounds of the School of Mines and furnishing the same,
$10,000; for machinery for laborator}', $10,000; for engi-
neering instruments, $1,000; for completing chemical lab-
oratory, $2,000; making a total aggregate of $33,000 of
territorial bonds issued on account of the Dakota School of
Mines.
Upon the division of the Territory, in 1889, all of these
bonds, with some of the coupons detached, came as a leg-
acy to South Dakota, together with nearly $700,000 other
territorial bonds issued on account of public institutions.
The School of Mines is maintained by the State. Appropri-
ations — more or less liberal, according to the effect of the
influence brought to bear upon our legislators — are made
28
434 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
for the maintenance of the institution at each biennial ses-
sion of the Legislature.
The experimental work done by the school in the direc-
tion of determining the character and value of the ores of
the Hills has proved invaluable to their mining interests,
and in the departments of mineralogy and metallurgy, few
institutions of the kind anywhere are better equipped for
the work.
The school is located about one mile east of the business
portion of the city, at the foot of a range of hills forming
a semi-circle around the town, and overlooking the valley
of Rapid creek.
The tirst building erected is a three-story brick structure,
on the first floor of which is the chemical department,
completely equipped and perfectly arranged for chemical
laboratory work, and capable of accommodating about
thirty students at one time, each provided with all the nec-
essary facilities for thorough chemical tests. The second
floor consists of two lecture rooms and dean's office, in
which is kept the library of the institution. The third
floor is devoted exclusively to the mineralogical and paleon-
tological cabinets, in which there are extensive and valuable
collections.
The second building, 200 feet to the eastward, contains
the assay and raetalUirgioal laboratories. This building,
the front portion of which is two stories in height, is also
built of brick. On the first floor of this portion are the
assay rooms for the students, provided with a number of
crucible furnaces built of fire-brick and set in the wall.
The rear portion of the building, which is only one story
high, contains a complete 3-stamp gold mill, a 5-stamp
silver mill, concentrating machinery, and other approved
appliances for the treatment of ores. In short, every
facility is afforded the student for acquiring a thorough
practical knowledge of the art of separating and refining
the various kinds of metals.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 435
INDIAN SCHOOL.
A recent addition to the educational institutions of Rapid
City is the government Indian school. The establishment
of this institution at Rapid City and the appropriations
therefor were secured mainly through the efforts of Senator
Pettigrew and Representative Gamble of South Dakota.
At the last session of the Fifty-first Congress the bill was
passed, appropriating the sura of $25,000 for the purchase
of a tract of aorricultural land, and the construction of
suitable buildings for the education, industrial and other-
wise, of Uncle Sam's youthful wards in South Dakota. A
fine farm of 160 acres situated in the valley of Rapid creek,
about one mile west of Rapid City, was purchased of Geo.
P. Bennett, at a cost of $2,000, and a site for the build-
ings selected on an elevated plateau adjacent thereto.
An additional appropriation of $18,000 was afterwards
made for the cost of heating, sewerage, industrial shops,
laundry, etc. The main building, which is now completed,
is a commodious, two-story brick structure, suitably
arranged for the purpose for which it is designed. The
other buildings appertaining to the institution are nearing
completion, and will soon be equipped for the opening of
the school.
RAPID CITY INCORPORATED.
On October 11th, 1882, the town of Rapid City was
incorporated as a village and divided into four wards with
John R. Brennan as President of the Board of Trustees,
which consisted of one member from each of the four
wards.
The village was incorporated as a city under a special
charter granted by the Legislature in February, 1883, with
Fred E. Stearns as the city's first Mayor and one member
of the City Council from each ward.
It was again incorporated under the general laws on
November 16th, 1888, with David H. Clark as Mayor of
436 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
last incorporation, the Council consisting of two Aldermen
from each ward.
Several additions have from time to time been attached
to the original plat, and incorporated into the city until
now it covers an area of two miles square, and, basing the
estimate upon the school census of 1898, contains a popu-
lation of 2,000.
THE FIRST RAILROAD.
Rapid City enjoys the distinction of being the first city
in the BUicli Hills to be connected by railway with the out-
side world. On the 4th day of July, 1886, the first steam
locomotive to invade the solitude of the Hills, — heralding
its approach by the shrill tooting of its whistle, arrived at
Rapid City with five passenger cars, gaily decorated with
flags attached, amid the loud acclamations of the thronsr
that had gathered at the station to welcome its advent. It
is needless to say that the event was celebrated by the peo-
ple in a manner commensurate with its importance. On
the strength of the prevalent belief that it might be the
terminus of the F. E. & M. V. Railway line Rapid City
had the nearest approach to a veritable boom that that sober
city ever experienced. For the month that it remained
the terminus all freight for other points in the Hills was
unloaded from the cars and shipped by wagon to its desti-
nation,— making times exceedingly lively; so when the
grading began along the line northward, the bubble began
to collapse, much to the disgust of the average Rapid City
citizen.
During the inflation of the bubble several important
railroad projects were inaugurated, which promised to
make Rapid City a great railroad center. A survey for a
narrow-gauge line to connect with the mineral and lumber
regions of the Hills was made, and the projector of the
scheme, Mr. E. B. Chapman, agreed, in consideration of a
liberal bonus by the people, to have thirty miles of the line
completed and in operation by thebeginningof theyear 1888.
>:
J
mi
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 437
Another survey for a narrow-gauge railroad was made
from Rapid City to the tin districts of Harney Peak and
Hill City, to extend into Wyoming. This was a project of
the Harney Peak Tin Mining Co.
Another survey was made from Chamberlain to Rapid
City by the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway Co.
with the purpose of constructing a road soon after the
opening of the Sioux reservation. While none of these
projects have yet been carried out, it is believed that, owing
to its inviting location at the natural gateway to the Hills,
and by virtue of the enterprise and liberality of its citizens,
Rapid City will, in the not distant future, become the focus
of several converging and diverging lines of railway.
In the summer of 1886 the Rapid City Street Railway
Co. was formed, which constructed a street line of about
one mile in length alons: the center of Main street from
West boulevard to the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Val-
ley Railway station, which line was afterwards extended to
the School of Mines to accommodate the students and fac-
ulty of that institution. The company was incorporated
and stocked in the sum of $10,000, and the cost of the line
is estimated at about $7,000. The enterprise is yet a living,
moving reality, operated under the management of Howard
Worth, of Rapid City.
THE ELECTRIC SYSTEM OF RAPID CITY.
The Rapid City Electric and Gas Light Company
was organized in September, 1886, by O. L. Cooper, of
Rapid City, and at once incorporated with a capital of
$20,000. The first officers of the company were: G. S.
Congdon, President; O. L. Cooper, Secretary; and H. S.
Hall, Treasurer. The plant, which is operated by water
power, had an original capacity of only forty-seven lights
of 1,200 candle power, since, however, the capacity of the
dynamo has been greatly enlarged. For the first five years
only the arc light system was used, to which, in 1892, the
incandescent light was added. While the plant is owned
438 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
by the same corporation, none of the original incorporators
are now connected with it.
THE RAPID CITY FIRE DEPARTMENT.
The present efficient Fire Department of Rapid City was
organized in 1887, at which time it was composed of the
following companies with their respective officers: —
Gate City Hose Company, No. 1 ; D. G. Ferguson, Fore-
man; Mel. Miller, First Assistant; Frank McMahon, Sec-
ond Assistant; Jack Taylor, Secretary; W. L. Carr,
Treasurer.
Rapid City Hook and Ladder, No. 1: Chas. N. Spencer,
Foreman; Cassius Price, First Assistant; J. J. Sharp,
Second Assistant; J. J. Rockford, Secretary; Lem Fall,
Treasurer.
Tom Sweeney Hose Company : A. L. Overpeck, Fore-
man ; R. E. Grimshaw, First Assistant; A. H. Smith, Sec-
ond Assistant ; Jas. W. Post, Secretary; John S. Kelliher,
Treasurer.
There was a partial organization of the first two com-
panies mentioned in 1886, which was completed in 1887.
BANKING INSTITUTIONS.
The business interests of Rapid City at present support
two banking institutions, both strong, well managed organ-
izations, having a fine prestige in financial circles through-
out the country.
The oldest of these, and the pioneer banking institution
of Rapid City, was first opened for the transaction of busi-
ness on December 1st, 1879, by Lake, Halley & Patterson,
with a capital of $10,000.00.
In 1881 Lake & Halley bought Mr. Patterson's interest
in the concern, and the bank was then conducted under
the name of Lake & Halley until September 1st, 1884,
when the bank was merged into the First National Bank
of Rapid City, with Richard C. Lake as President, and
Jas. Halley as Cashier, with a capital stock of $50,000.00.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 439
The present officers of the bank are : Jas. Halley, President ;
Charlotte Gardner, Vice-President ; H.H. Somers, Cashier.
Its capital is $50,000.00; surplus $10,000.00; deposits,
$300,000.00. The bank has paid in dividends to its stock-
holders $119,500.00. The First National Bank conducts
all the departments of a legitimate banking business — in-
cluding the negotiation of loans, the reception of deposits,
the issuance of notes, drafts, and letters of credit, and has
been a successful institution from the first.
The Pennington County Bank of Rapid City began busi-
ness on the 22d day of April, 1888, under the hiws of the
State of South Dakota, with a paid-up capital of $50,000,00.
The bank was established by Capt. Frank R. Davis of
Rapid City; Stephen H. Mills of New York City; Jesse
Carll of Northport, New York, and other associates of Mr.
Davis. The first officers of the bank were : S. H. Mills,
President; Edward Oakes, Vice-President; Frank R.
Davis, Cashier ; Geo. F. Schneider, Assistant Cashier. In
1892 Jas. M. Woods was elected vice-president to fill the
vacancy caused by the death of Mr. Oakes. In 1893 Mr.
Davis died, when Geo. F. Schneider was elected cashier.
The present officers of the bank are: Stephen H. Mills,
President; Jas. M. Woods, Vice-President; Geo. F.
Schneider, Cashier; Paul S. Woods, Assistant Cashier.
The Pennington County Bank is a State bank organized
under the laws of the State of South Dakota; and enjoys
the distinction of beins^ the largest State bank in South
Dakota. Its capital stock is $50,000.00 ; a surplus of $10,-
000.00; undivided profits, $5,076.00; average deposits,
$225,000, and pays a semi-annual dividend of five per cent
to its stockholders. The Pennington County Bank is the
county depositary of Pennington Count}'.
Rapid City sustains four hotels, between fifty and sixty
business houses of various kinds, among which are a num-
ber of mammoth establishments, conducting several dis-
tinct lines of business, fourteen lawyers, si.K doctors, one
dental surgeon, and several real estate and insurance offices.
440 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Of the four hotels, the International, now kept by P. B.
McCarty, is believed to be the oldest. Around this vener-
able hostelry clusters memories of the hustling, bustling
<lays of early stage travel and road agents, when sleeping
accommodations for the bruised and battered passengers
was at a premium, and when the rumbling of the old tally-
hos, as they dashed up to their respective headquarters on
opposite corners, was a familiar sound. During those days
the International was the headquarters of the Northwestern
Stage & Transportation Line running between Deadwood
and Pierre, while its rival on the opposite corner, first kept
by John R. Brennan, furnished accommodations for
travelers over the Deadwood & Sidney Express Line.
Hotel Harney, a fine three-storied brick structure, con-
taining fifty rooms, with a capacity for entertaining seventy-
five guests, was opened in 1878 and is still conducted by
John R. Brennan, — mine host of the 12x14 log hotel of
1876.
Among the present firms that began business when the
town was very young, and when goods and merchandise had
to be brought in by mule and ox-teams, are the following:
Perhaps the oldest is that of Grambery & Co., established
by Schnasse & Grambery in the fall of 1877. The oldest
dry goods firm is that of Morris & Co., established in
Rapid City in the spring of 1878. Mr. Jacob Morris
brougrht his stock of clothing and furnishing goods down
from Deadwood in the early part of May, and opened busi-
ness on Main street where he is located to-day. The
longest established of the drug stores of Rapid City
was opened by Chas. D. Matteson in 1878, and oldest
hardware store by Thomas Sweeney.
It is cruelly related of Tom that he came over the trail
alongside of an ox-train with his hat in his hand and
arrived in Rapid City in 1877, without a dollar in his
pocket and destitute of " grub," but being a business man
and a born " rustler," he soon devised ways and means to
put himself on a paying basis. He rented a small room,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 441
borrowed a razor, and opened a barber shop. His first
customer was Fred Evans, who paid him the liberal sura of
fifty cents for the shave. This half dollar was Ihe capital
stock which started him in business, and put him on the
high road to wealth. It is believed, however, that this
story is an exaggeration. Be that as it may, Thos. Sweeney
is now conducting one of the largest business establishments
in the Black Hills.
Of the present bar, Chauncey L. Wood has the distinction
of being the first to establish himself in the practice of his
profession in Rapid City, where he arrived in the spring of
1877, and soon after opened an office. In the spring of
1878 he became associated with his old-time friend and
college chum, John W. Novvlin, whose interesting career
will be referred to further on. For the past twenty years
Chauncey L. Wood has been a conspicuous figure in the
political history of the Black Hills, and a leader in the
Democratic party of Dakota. He is a profound lawyer, a
])owerful and eloquent pleader, and his name stands high
among the leading attorneys of the State. Because of his
knowledo;e of constitutional law he was selected as one of
the delegates to represent the Black Hills at the constitu-
tional convention held at Sioux Falls on July 4th, 1889, to
help frame a constitution for the new State of South
Dakota, as provided for in the bill, admitting it to State-
hood.
The history of Rapid City would scarcely be complete
without a brief sketch of the Black Hills career of John W.
Nowlin, who for a number of years was intimately identi-
fied with its municipal affairs, and whose name, a synonym
for all that is admirable in manhood, is still honored
by its people. Early in the spring of 1876, Judge Nowlin,
then a young law graduate from the Iowa State University,
left his native State ( Iowa) to seek his fortune and fame amid
the more generous possibilities of the boundless West. In
the spring of 1877, the ambitious young adventurer, after
having spent a year on the threshold at Yankton, purchased
442
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
an outfit and established a freight line between Pierre and
Deadwood, but during the summer of the same year sold
his line aitd opened an office for the practice of law in
Crook City, then on the wane, where he remained but a
short time.
In April, 1878, he entered into partnership with Chaun-
cey L. Wood, which firm opened practice in Rapid City
under the firm name of Nowlin & Wood. In the fall of
1878 he was elected Judofe of Probate for Pennington
County, and re-elected in 1880, and it was during his
incumbency as Probate Judge that he did such valuable
service for Rapid City. Against strong opposition he se-
cured the patent for the town-site in 1881, and also drew
the first charter under which it was incorporated as a city
in 1883. In the fall of 1884, he was elected to the Terri-
torial Legislature, at which session he drew, and was largely
instrumental in securing the passage of the act, establishino'
the School of Mines at Rapid City. In 1885 he was ap-
pointed Judge of the first Circuit Court, by the executive of
the provisional State government formed during that 3'ear.
About this time his health began to fail, when he sus-
pended practice, and journeyed away off to the sunny
slopes of California, visiting Arizona and New Mexico,
with the vain hope of arresting the malady that was sap-
ping his existence. In 1889, when South Dakota was
admitted to Statehood, he was elected to the bench of the
Seventh Judicial District of the Circuit Court, which posi-
tion he resigned in November, 1892, and in March, 1893,
when in the prime of life, as told by years, he died.
JUDGE JUIIX W. NOWLIX.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 443
CHAPTER XXX.
HORSE-STEALING AROUND RAPID CITV IN 1877.
Perhaps none of the early settlements were more per-
sistently harassed by horse-thieves in 1877 than Rapid
City, for which reason its citizens were disposed to give
them short shrift for their moral and mental obliquity, so
one dark night in the month of June, 1877, three sus-
pected men who had been caught were suspended from the
limb of a pine tree standing on what has since been known
as " Hangman's Hill," a half mile westof the town. This
grewsome act of speedy retribution recalls a story related by
one of the early settlers, of how a small party of the citizens
of Rapid City, for about an hour, dodged bullets from
45-caliber rifles fired by four horse-thieves and all-around
desperadoes one day in 1877, viz: Dune. Blackburn,
" Billy the Kid," " Laughing Sam " and one other,
thus: The four outlaws had been committing frequent
depredations in and around Rapid City, so hearing that
they were seen a few miles from town, John Brennan
organized a posse to ride out in pursuit and capture them
if possible. The outlaws were found near the outskirts of
the town when the exciting chase began. The road agents
were mounted ofl swift-going steeds (stolen, doubtless),
and, consequently, with the exception of John Brennan,
Wm. Steele, and a stock tender, left the pursuing party
far in the rear. Brennan was the only one of the three
armed with a rifle, the others having only six-shooters.
However, that made no difference, they followed up the
chase, and got within shooting distance just as the outlaws
were crossing the Box Eider, when they opened fire on
4:hem, receiving no reply. Crossing Box Elder the pursuit
444 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
was continued and the last seen of the outlaws they were
disappearing over a little elevation about 800 yards distant
on Elk creek. Putting spurs to their horses they hurried
on to overtake them, and when within seventy-five yards
of the summit of the hill they were greeted with a hail of
bullets, one of which penetrated the breast of Steele's
horse; whiz, whiz, went the leaden missiles past the heads
of the pursuers; thick and fast they came. "Great,
Scott ! but they are big ones ; hear them sing," exclaimed
Brennan. The party dismounted and returned the fire,
but the outlaws, being under cover of the hill, had them at
a disadvantage, until Brennan, at a great personal risk,
made a detour to the right and succeeded in outflanking
them and with a few well-directed shots from his rifle, soon
put the desperadoes to flight. It was afterwards learned
that two of them were slightly wounded.
MINING STAMPEDE IN RAPID CITY.
Strange and incredible as it may seem to those who know
them, Chauncey Wood, with all his profundity and legal
acumen, and Thomas Sweeney, with all his business shrewd-
ness, were once upon a time led away on one of the most
exciting stampedes known in the history of the Black Hills.
Of stampedes in general, and this one in particular, Doc.
Peirce, himself one of the victims, gives the following
amusing account. Doc. says : *' Stampedes create more
excitement in a mining camp than any other cause, and in
ninety-nine cases out of 100 they are as delusive as a man's
word on election day. I made just two of these nocturnal
excursions, on foot, and ran most of the time to keep up
with the horsemen, falling over logs and rocks, and snag-
ging myself on dead limbs.
" When I returned from the second one, the ' Box
Elder' stampede, I took an inventory of myself and dis-
covered that I did not have clothes enough on to flag a
hand-car. My epidermis needed repairing badly, and as my
stomach was not built on the same liberal plan as the one
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 445
Dr. Tanner was using, so I subsided and went out in the
woods in the daytime and ate berries, and would return to
town at night to slumber. I found this mode of living gave
me the necessary exercise for health, and as even dried-
apple pies at that time sold for $1 each, and as 1 was never
known to have a dollar, time proved that my system was
the cheapest."
The most cruel stampede ever concocted in the Hills was
the one to the Bear Paw mountains, gotten up, it was
claimed, by " Red" Clark and others, for the purpose of
unloading some old, worn-out saddle and pack-ponies. If
that be true their scheme proved a'glittering success, but
not so with the poor boys who made that trip, for they suf-
fered untold misery, and more than one never lived to get
back to Dead wood.
But the most comical thing in the way of a stampede
happened at Eapid City, in 1889. The lawyers there, in
those dull times, were suffering from ennui, so they got
up a stampede just for excitement. A committee was
appointed to get some gold dust and go out on the
Rockerville road and plant it. The committee was igno-
rant of formations, and as they did not like to exert them-
selves in walking out very far, they stopped in the " red
hills " back of town and salted a gypsum bed. Old Bart
Henderson, the veteran prospector of the Rocky Mountains,
came along where they were working, and, taking in the
situation, requested to be let in on the deal. The boys^
knowing that Bart knew all about the chloride of sodium
act, took him in the conspiracy, thereby greatly disturbing
the peace and dignity of the other peaceable citizens of
Eapid City.
After performing their nefarious work the boys separated
and meandered back to town, and commenced to agitate the
subject of mining. Some thought the only way to save
Rapid City was for the citizens to employ competent pros-
pectors and send them out with plenty of grub and mining
utensils, and see if they could not find another Rocker-
446 THE BLACK HILLS; Oil,
ville district closer to town, and after considerable talk this
plan was finally adopted.
Committees were appointed to raise funds to pay ex-
penses, men were chosen to go prospecting, and, of course,
one of the boys insisted on going who knew where the
plant was. In a short time he came back all out of breath,
with a panful of decomposed gypsum, and appearing very
excited. " I think I have struck it right up there in that
hill back of town; here is some of the dirt, let us go to
the creek and wash it out." Everybody followed ; even
Tom Sweeney took a lay-off and went along. They
panned out the dirt, and when the gold dust, which was
very fine, commenced to show up in the pan, everybody
went wild with excitement. Sweeney ran around with
his hat in his hand, exclaiming, " Isn't she a bird, boys ; I
tell you, old Rapid is a hummer: she is all right ! " And
during the excitement, Bart Henderson, who always kept
on hand a few choice nuggets for specimens, asked per-
mission to pan a while, and as he was the chief in that line,
the boys readily assented, and that was where they let the
bars down, for Bart had a nugget in hand about the size of
a hickory nut, and while he was splashing the water around
in the pan, he gently let the nugget slide in with the other
gold. It was not Ions: l)efore old man Chase discovered
the big chunk, and such a yell as went up from that crowd !
Henderson claimed the nugget, as he had panned it out.
The boys who had put up the job drew off to one side and
spoke low. " Boys," whispered Chauncey \Yood, " we
never put in that big chunk, she is there as true as gospel,
let us get up there quick before the mob goes, and stake
our claims." "I'll go you," says Sweeney; and they
started on the run, and such a scramble was never seen
before or since in the Black Hills. Men, women, and
children went daft. Chauncey was not in condition to run
over a quarter of a mile, but Sweeney urged him on by
saying: "It is the chance of a lifetime, old son, hurry
up."
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 447
When they arrived at the phice where the plant was,
Chauncey got a stake and commenced writing a mining
notice. Sweeney had never been in the mines, so he was
not acquainted with the form used, but stood looking on,
and when he read the words : "I claim 300 feet up this hill
for mining purposes," yelled out, "For God's sake don't
take it all." Chauncey arose very dignified and, striking
the proper attitude for effect, said, "Tom, if you say
another word, 1 will take 160 acres." " Fire away, old
son," replied Sweeney. " Take all you want but leave me
a slice of this melon." By this time the crowd had arrived,
and they soon staked the whole country. A wag in the
party, who did not find anything else to stake, blazed a
large pine tree, and wrote the following notice upon it:
" I hereby claim 300 feet up this tree for climbing pur-
poses,— also claim all knots, limbs, woodpecker holes,
etc., for working purposes, and all jumpers are hereby
warned not to meddle with this claim in any manner, for
if they do this tree will be used for a head-tone." That
last line settled it, for it is safe to say that at least a dozen
of otherwise intelligent men stopped, read that notice and
rode on, and don't know to this day that it was meaning-
less. Thus the salter was salted.
448 THE BLACK HILLS; OR
CHAPTEE XXXI.
HILL CITY.
The story of the rise and tlecline of the many early
booming camps of Pennington County, in which there is
something almost pathetic, may be briefly told. Hill City,
the first of these and the second oldest mining camp in the
Black Hills, Custer antedating it by only a few months,
was laid out by Thos. Harvey, John Miller, Hugh McCul-
lough, and others, in February, 1876. Good prospects had
been found in the gulches and bars along Spring creek
during the summer and fall of 1875, when the miners were
being harassed to the point of desperation by Uncle Sam's
blue coats, and on the opening of placer operations in the
spring of 1876, the camp suddenly grew into a booming
town. About two score of substantial log cabins were
hastily erected and numerous tents were sandwiched in
between or scattered thickly over the site.
About the first of May, when Hill City's future seemed
assured, glowing reports of the rich diggings in Deadwood
gulch came floating down with the north wind, when the
miners on Spring creek individually and in groups hastily
packed their burros with blankets, mining implements,
etc., or shouldered them according to circumstances, and
made their way over the hills to the new golden Mecca,
leaving Hill City by the middle of May as deserted as a
graveyard — only one man and a dog remaining to tell the
story of its desertion. This closes the first short chapter
of its history.
Subsequently, some returned to their first love, others
came, and considerable placer mining was done on Spring
creek, Newton's Fork, and other branches of Spring creek.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
449
and a number of ranches were located in its broad fertile
valley. During the few succeeding years much prospect-
ing was done for quartz within a radius of live or six miles
of Hill City, and a number of exceedingly rich gold ledges
were discovered, and to a more or less extent developed,
among which were the Grizzly Bear, the St. Elmo, the
HILL CITY IN 1876.
Bengal Tiger, the King Solomon, The Golden Summit,
and others.
The Grizzly Bear mine, situated about four miles south-
west of Hill City and within a short distance of Harney's
Peak, was discovered in 1879 by Messrs. Cook, Rogers,
and Barber. The discoverers afterwards sold to Messrs.
Miller and Mather, of Deadwood, who ejected a twenty-
stamp mill on the property, which finally came into the
29
450 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
possession of Louis Florman, of Hill City. The property
is now leased to Geo. Beitchey, of Sheridan. The Grizzly
Bear has since the erection of the mill been a producing
mine, and is considered among the best in that region of
the Hills.
The St. Elmo gold mine is located in Sunday gulch, a
branch of Spring creek, about four miles south of Hill
City. This mine was discovered by B. Wood and J.
Bishop in 1880. In 1881 the property was purchased by
G. Kimball and O. B. Elliott, who commenced the erection
of a five-stamp mill. In 1883 a third interest in the mine
was sold to J. C. McDonald and Wm. T. Jewett, when the
mill was completed and put in operation, but during the
same year was sold to Deadwood parties, who have oper-
ated the mill, though not continuously, since. The mine is
regarded by experts as a first-class mine; the ore, which is
for the most part free-milling, assays an average of $11.50
in gold per ton.
About two and one-half miles northwest of Hill City is
located the Bengal Tiger gold mine, discovered about
1878 by B. Gibson, and later owned by a Mr. Long of
Philadelphia, Penn. This mine developed a wonderfully
rich streak of gold-bearing quartz, which was soon lost in
the larger deposit of low grade ore. Hoisting machinery
was operated at the mine, but no mill was erected. About
twelve years ago the Bengal Tiger withdrew to his native
jungles, and has not since been heard of.
The King Solomon, situated about six miles northwest
of Hill City, was located in 1878 or 1879. The King Sol-
omon Company erected a fifteen-stamp mill on the prop-
erty, which, after running a few months, was closed down,
and later the machinery was moved away. The mill and
other buildings erected on the property were also torn
down and the lumber sold to different parties. A little
hamlet of log cabins grew up near by on the strength of
these operations, and was christened Tigerville, after the
great Bengal Tiger mine. It is to-day only a memory.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 451
Among the men who figured prominently in connection
with the King Solomon mine was Prof. A. L. Dickerman,
who superintended operations, and was regarded as a very
competent geologist and mineralogist. The mine is yet
believed to be very rich.
The Golden Summit mine was discovered about 1879 by
Henry Schenck of Sheridan, but is now owned by a Cedar
Rapids company. A thirty-stamp mill was erected on the
property, which ran about three years, when operations
closed. This mine also produced some marvelously rich
specimens of free gold.
Although these mining enterprises resulted in the build-
ing up of a settlement at Hill City, its fortunes were
extremely vacillating until 1883, when the discovery of
tin in the vicinity brought it into sudden and wide promi-
nence. From that time the history of the tin industry
and Hill City — its base of operations — are closely inter-
woven.
Every one, at least almost everyone, knows that, up
to that time, the mineral known as tin was exclusively a
foreign product, while its use in the United States was
very extensive, and the commodity expensive, conse-
quently its discovery in the Black Hills caused a furore of
excitement in the region round about the great grranite
uplift, where it was found, and a widespread interest
throughout this and other countries.
The revelation of the existence of tin in the Hills, as
great discoveries oftentimes do, came accidentally, — or
perhaps it were better to say, incidentally. The first dis-
covery is claimed to have been made by Dr. S. H. Fergu-
son in what is known as the " Etta Mine," which is situated
near the summit of a granite uplift, rising some 200 feet
above Grizzly creek, which discharges its waters — when
it has any — into Battle creek — six miles east of Harney
Peak, in Pennington County. The Etta mine was located
by Dr. S. H. Ferguson and L. W. McDonald in March,
1883, as a mica mine. In working the mine, they dis-
452 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
covered in the block ore, the presence of a mineral, the
nature and value of which they were unable to determine ;
so finally a test was made by inelting a small quantity of
the ore in a common forge, w4iich resulted in producing a
substance which was at first supposed to be silver. To
determine more fully, a piece of the ore was sent to Prof.
Hubrecken, of Quincy, III., who at once pronounced it tin.
It will be remembered that Prof. Jenny stated in 1875 that
the Black Hills showed the best indications of tin he had
seen in this country, and that it ought to be found there.
According to reliable information, the first public an-
nouncement of the discovery of tin in the Hills was made
by Major A. J. Simmons, then of Rapid City, but now
of Deadwood, in an article on the subject, published in the
Rapid City Journal of June 7th, 1883, in which he says :
" The indications already point to the existence of an
extensive district of the mineral." In reference to the
discovery Prof. Wm. Blake says: " The discovery of tin
ore in the Black Hills of Dakota Territory may be said to
have been complete on the 7th of Jnne, 1883, when a
sample, which had been forwarded by Capt. A. J. Simmons,
of Rapid City, to Gen. Gashwiler, of San Francisco, was
submitted to me far determination."
In July, 1883, Prof. Blake visited the Hills and made a
careful examination of the deposit, taking specimens of
the rock away for assaying purposes, and, in view of the
suspension of the tin mining industry in the Black Hills it
may be interesting to note his opinion of the value of the
deposit at the time of its discovery.
In a series of articles, published in the New York Mining
Journal^ Prof. Blake says: "The showing of tin in the
Black Hills is remarkable, exceeding anything I have ever
seen, giving a far better percentage of pure tin than any
other mines in the world;" and, further, says: "The
assay shows results varying from five to forty per cent, and
there seems to be a vast body of tin-bearing rock in sight."
Indeed, a look at the Etta mine in 1883, would indicate
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 453
an inexhaustible body of that precious mioeral. The walls
in the cut in the mountain side, which was about twenty
feet vertically and horizontally, showed a vast body of the
blocks of mica of various colors, mixed with quartz, and
the whole slope of the hill glittered with mica, thrown out
from the excavation.
In August of the same year, the " Nickel Plate " mine,
situated about eighty rods east of the Etta, was discovered.
This mine showed assays of forty-one and two-thirds per
cent tin, and seven and one-htdf per cent nickel and cobalt;
the nickel crystals in the mine giving twenty-five per cent
pure nickel.
The Etta mine was first owned by Dr. S. H. Ferguson,
B. W. McDonald, A. J. Simmons, and Alexander Medill,
and the "Nickel Plate" by Dr. S. A. Ferguson, B. W.
McDonald, and Messrs. Cunningham and Smith,
About the same time another promising discovery was
made on the north slope of Harney's Peak, by R. P.
Wheelock and Rob't Florman. At the base of the moun-
tain on which this discovery was made,. on Palmer's gulch,
splendid specimens of stream tin were found.
In the fall of 1883, a stock company was formed for
working the mine, of which Rob't Florman was president;
J. S. Gantz, secretary; Milton Frease, treasurer ; and R.
P. Wheelock, A. P. Sterling, Wm. Lewis, Wm. McMurtrie,
Richard B. Hughes, Rufus Madison, J. H. Lewis, and Wnl.
Rosen baum, members.
In the fall of 1883 a representative of English capital-
ists visited the Hills, and made a thorough examination of
the tin deposits around Harney's Peak, reporting to his
employers in glowing terms of their abundance and rich-
ness. Subsequently, a powerful corporation of American
and English stockholders was formed under the name of
the Harney Peak Consolic^ated Tin Company, which pro-
ceeded at once to buy up nearly everything looking like
tin in sight, until the combination controlled a large per
cent of the tin deposits in the Black Hills. It is stated
454 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
that the company have on record in Pennington and Cus-
ter Counties, over 1,100 mining locations, nearly 5,000
acres of placer ground, and a number of valuable water
rights along the line of the tin belt. It is estimated that
the company has expended $2,000,000 in the purchase and
development of properties, and the erection of plants for
the reduction of ore.
In 1891 the company commenced the erection of a
large plant for the reduction of ore near Hill City. This
plant, which was finished in 1892, was provided with the
most approved machinery for the treatment of ores, and is
conceded by those competent to judge to be, both in con-
struction and equij^ment, the most complete plant of the
kind ever erected in the Black Hills. In November, 1892,
the machinery was set in motion and continued to run with-
out friction, and with satisfactory results as far as known,
for a period of two months, when the works were tempo-
rarily (?) closed down, pending the adjustment of certain
complications between the American and foreign stock-
holders. Why it has taken more than five years to adjust
these differences, is a problem which the people of the
Black Hills at large would like to see solved.
The natural depression caused by the closing of its chief
industry was severely felt by Hill City, but its people
have never yet lost faith in its ultimate revival, and the
consequent prosperity of the town. However, Hill City is
by no means wholly dependent upon tin for its continuance
as a town, as there are numerous promising gold ledges in
the vicinity that are being rapidly developed, among which
are the "Tea," " Dolcode," "Golden Slipper," " New
Eldorado," and other lodes whose ores have been treated at
the J. R. Mill, about three and one-half miles northeast of
Hill City and found to be rich. About three miles north
of Hill City on Newton's Fork is the Sunny Side mine
which has proven to be a veritable bonanza. This mine
was discovered by Geo. Coats of Hill City in 1895 or 1896,
but is now owned in whole or in part by the Holy Terror
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 455
Gold Mining Co., which runs a night and day shaft, em-
ploying about thirty men. There are hoisting works at
the mine, and the company contemplate the erection of
reduction works in the near future. The ore is claimed to
be very rich.
QUEEN BEE.
Queen Bee, a small mining camp, situated about four
miles north of Tigerville, on a branch of Slate creek,
dates its origin from the discovery of what is known as
the Queen Bee gold mine, which was located by F. H.
Griffin in 1879. Later, other locations were made known
as Queen Bee No. 2, New Holland, and New Holland No.
2 — extensions of the original claim.
In the spring of 1880, Mr. Griffin bonded the property
for $125,000.00 to J. I. Case of Racine, Wisconsin, who
developed the property for about two months, when the
work was discontinued. Subsequently Mr. Hall became
interested in the property with Mr. Griffin, when they pur-
chased machinery for a ten-stamp mill, of Fred Evans and
E. Loveland, and built the Queen Bee mill which was
operated for two months, when it closed for the winter.
During the winter the property was bonded to Chicago
parties for $55,000, but nothing came of the transaction.
In 1881 it was sold to Col. D. Boyce of Chicago, for the
Michigan Southern Railway Co., which after expending
several hundred dollars on the property, deeded it back to
the original owners. In 1882 a two-third interest was sold
to Edwin Loveland and Jas. Jacoby of Rapid City, who
added five stamps to the naill and built a tramway from the
mill to the mine.
SHERIDAN.
A half-dozen dilapidated log cabins, in various stages of
decay, relieved by two or three comfortable farm-houses
and a little log schoolhouse, is all that remains of the
once flourishing town of Sheridan. Beautifully located
456 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
ill a wide basin in the valley of Spring creek is Sheridan,
the first capital of Pennington County. In point of age,
it enjoys the distinction of being the third town located in
the Black Hills, it having been laid out in the fall of 1875,
and first called " Golden," which was afterwards changed
to its present name, given in honor of the famous cavalry
oflBcer, Gen. Phil. Sheridan.
Among the first to reach the site of Sheridan were
Andrew J. Williams, Ernest Barthold, John W. Allen, A.
J. Carlin, Ed. Flaherty, Frank Bethune, Wm. Marsten,
Ezekiel Brown, and Deacon Willard, who reached that point
in July, 1875, about the time of the arrival of the exploring
party under Professor Jenny.
The first gold discovery was made on July 18th by A. J.
Williams who, it is claimed, washed $2.00 from one pan of
gravel taken from Stand-off bar.
' On the morning after his rich find he staked his claim
and then rode away post-haste to Custer to notify his
partners, who were washing out gold on French creek, of
his good fortune. On his return with his five partners he
found his claim jumped, and moreover nearly the whole
bar staked off and taken. At a subsequent miners' meeting,
however, his claim was restored to him. In August the
miners were ordered out of the Hills by Gen. Crook but,
before the middle of October, they were all back working
on their claims.
Soon after a party from Montana arrived and staked off
the lower end of the bar, and called it " Montana" bar,
from which, during the first week, they washed out $3,000
in gold, including a nugget valued at $23.00. On finding
bed-rock pitching into the channel of the creek, the ground
was soon after abandoned. Among this Montana party
were Fred Cruse, E. Davis, Chas. Spencer, Jas. Hayward,
and John Norton.
During the summer of 1876 the population of Sheridan
grew rapidly and log cabins went up on every hand. To
keep the Indians, who were very troublesome in that local-
o;
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 457
ity, at a respectful distance, many of the cabins erected
were provided with portholes, after the style of frontier
block houses. Very few settlements, no matter how
secluded the spot, escaped the keen vision of the redskins
in 1876, especially if there chanced to be any horses
picketed around. The noble red man had a wonderful
penchant for the horses of the pale-faces in those days, to
gratify which they one day captured and run off thirty-
two horses belongins; to the settlers of Sheridan at one fell
swoop.
As Sheridan gave promise of being the future town of
the Central Hills, the county commissioners at their first
session held at Rapid City in April, 1877, made it the tem-
porary count}^ seat of Pennington County. It was also
designated as the location of the United States Land Office
in March, 1877, which, however, was removed to Deadwood
in the following May. In October, 1877, the first term of
the Black Hills Circuit Court was held at Sheridan, the
Hon. Granville G. Bennett presiding. The court convened
in a large log building, which stood until 1895, when the
old landmark was burned to the ground. It is told that
several attorneys from Deadwood were present at the
opening session of court, and that sleeping accommodations
being scarce, they were compelled to sleep upon the floor
of the log courthouse, which really was nothing remarkable
in those days. As a matter of fact, they should have
thought themselves fortunate in being able to secure even
floor space for sleeping.
Near Sheridan, on the south side of Spring creek, is
located the one-time famous Blue Lead quartz mines, four
in number, formerly known as the Blue Wing, Gray Eagle,
Strader, and Fraction Lodes. These mines, which were at
one time considered very valuable, were bonded to an En-
glish syndicate for $100,000, but the deal fell through
because the ore was thought to be refractory. It is be-
lieved that for several years nothing has been done with
the property further than legal development work.
458 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
About three and a half miles above Sheridan, on Spring
creek, is located the J. E,. Mine, owned by F. C. Crocker.
A 300-foot shaft has been sunk on this mine, and the ore
is reputed to be exceedingly rich. A stamp mill has been
in successful operation on the property for several years.
ROCHFORD.
In between exceedingly wild and rugged hills, that rise
far above the ocean's level, about twenty-five miles by the
traveled road, northerly from Hill City on the line of the
Burlington & Missouri Railway, may be found the town
known by the musical name of Rochford. It contains
about two score or more tenantless and sadly demoralized
structures of various patterns, log and frame, dotted here
and there with less than a baker's dozen of the comfort-
able homes of a few who tenaciously adhere to the belief
that Rochford and the region round about has a bright and
glorious future.
Rochford has two hotels, supported mainly by the travel-
ing public; two stores of general merchandise, and one
saloon. It also has one disciple of Esculapius, who, as oc-
casion requires, administers to the physical ailments of the
little community; and a good school. Rochford was not
always as it is now. There was a time when its narrow
streets were thronged with excited miners; when, instead
of two score, there were two hundred or more structures
lining the street, and a population of more than five hun-
dred souls.
Rochford owes its existence on the map of the Black
Hills wholly to the discovery and development of its quartz
mines, and this is the way it was brought about: —
One day in August, 1876, M. D. Rochford, Richard B.
Hughes, and Wm. Van Fleet, left Deadwoodfor the central
hills on a hunting excursion, and while looking for game
one of the party picked up, on Montezuma hill, what proved
to be a tine specimen of gold-bearing rock. Nothing was
done towards development, however, until February,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 459
1877, when Messrs. Rochford and Hughes again visited the
valley of Little Rapid creek, Joe McKirihan, afterward
the owner of the Evangeline mine, on Irish gulch, accom-
panying them. In the meantime a couple of men had been
at work in the vicinitv during the winter.
In March, 1877, a party of miners from Castle creek
arrived, and numerous locations were made in the vicinity
of the first discovery, when a mining district was organized,
of which Jas. Morrison was elected recorder. During the
year 1877 many locations were made in the hills bordering
on Little Rapid creek by prospectors from Lead and Cen-
tral, among which was the " Stand-by," by Rochford,
Nyswanger & Co., and the " Fort Wayne," by A. P. Rep-
pert.
The first building on the site where Rochford stands was
erected by M. S. Hughes. The meeting for the town
organization was held in Hughes' cabin in May, 1878, when
the town was named Rochford, in honor of M. D. Rochford,
one of the first discoverers of gold in that region. From
that time there was such a great rush to these quartz mines
that Rochford, in the fall of 1878, was a booming camp,
one of the liveliest in the Hills. In December of that year
Rochford contained five hundred people and the camp a
population of one thousand.
In 1879 two twenty-stamp mills were erected in the
district, one at the Evangeline, on Irish gulch; the other
at the Minnesota mine, on Silver creek, both within the
lines of Lawrence County.
About the same time a company was formed which pur-
chased the Stand-By mine, and expended large sums in the
construction of a ditch and flume, and what was at the
time considered a fine dwelling, called " The Mansion," for
the use of the officers of the company. Subsequently a
forty-stamp mill was erected and put in operation at the
mine, under the management of A. J. Simmons, one of the
stockholders, but after running for a short time the mill
closed down, first for farther development of the mine, and
460
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
finally for »ood, because the ore failed to pay. It has
clearly and often been demonstrated that no low grade ore
will pay unless operated on a large scale.
ROCHFORD AT THE BEGINNING OF THE BOOM IN 1878.
The subsequent history of that once famous mine is a
complex one, frequently changing management, and run-
ning spasmodically. The mill and machinery were once
sold for taxes levied by Pennington County, when the prop-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 461
erty fell into the possession of John Rochford on tax sale.
It is now controlled by the Apex Consolidated Mining &
Milling Co., a corporation composed mostly of Rapid City
gentlemen.
Another mine that failed to pay was the Alta Lodi mine,
situated at the head of Smith's canyon about three miles
southwest of Rochford. A company organized in Red
Oak, Iowa, erected a twenty-stamp mill on the property
which, after running a few months, permanently closed
operations. In 1883 the mill was purchased by Messrs.
Robinson, Havvgood & Hoskius of Lead City, and removed
by them to Lookout, about six miles south of Rochford,
where it was operated for a time on the Lookout mine. In
1887 it was bought by Col. M. H. Day, and operated by a
company known as the Blossom Mining Co. on the Look-
out and Spread Eagle mines, owned by Hooper & Avers.
The stamps of the Alta Lodi mill have for several years
been hung up.
Strangely enough, a tive-stamp Huntington mill is now
being operated on the old Alti Lodi mine by Jas. Coch-
rane, who is taking out good ore and making money.
Another speculation that failed in the Rochford district is
the Montana mine, situated above the head of Irish gulch,
discovered by Chas. L. Dunphy. In 1890 a forty-stamp
mill was built at the mine by Geo. G. Smith and others of
New Hampshire, under the name of the Gregory Gold
Mining Co. at a cost of $160,000 on mine and mill, but
after running about two months the mill closed and has
since been idle. Despite all these failures, there are mill-
ions of ofold hidden in the rusrged hills of the Rochford
district, awaiting development and discreet management.
Now while it may seem unnecessary to record these many
failures of mining enterprises in the central and southern
Hills, let it be remembered that the province of history is
to relate facts, and the real facts are, that nine-tenths of
the stamp mills erected throughout the Hills during the
early years of their quartz-mining history were failures
462 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
and a detriment to the reputation of the entire Black Hills,
and more, their erections were stupendous blunders on the
part of mine owners and mine operators.
Let it not be inferred, however, that because of the
failure of these stamp mills, the mines upon which they
operated are worthless, as quite the reverse is the truth. It
nas been ascertained, upon inquiry, as well as upon un-
questionable authority, that the ores of the major part of
the mines where failures have occurred, when submitted to
scientific chemical tests, have assayed from five to fifteen
and twenty dollars per ton of ore — else no stamp mills
would have been erected. Then, why did they fail to pay?
The reasonable and los^ical deduction is that the ores being-
only in part free milling, refused to yield to the amalgamat-
ing process, and therefore could not possibly pay operation
on a small scale. Could the great Homestake mine be made
to pay if operated upon with a twenty or forty-stamp mill
without even concentrating machinery attached? And
indeed, what would the numerous other properties in the
northern Hills that are paying so richly to -day amount to
without their 'smelting, chlorinating, and cyanide plants?
When capital is willing to invest several hundreds of thou-
sands of dollars, in similar enterprises, in the central and
southern Hills, these abandoned properties will also pay.
Moral. Never erect a small stamp mill on a low grade
mine.
PACTOLA.
Few of the early settlements of the Black Hills have a
more interesting history than Pactola, on Kapid creek.
When Gen. Crook encamped with a force of cavalry in
that wide, beautiful basin in the valley of that swiftly
flowing stream in the summer of 1875, it was named
" Camp Crook," in honor of that gallant officer. Camp
Crook was one of the earliest mining camps of the Hills,
gold having been discovered there in July, 1875, shortly
after the settlement of Custer. The discoverers at once
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 463
organized a mining district, calling it the Rapid Creek Min-
ing District, and elected as recorder a Mr. Watts, who,
when the miners were removed from the Hills in August,
was left to look after the claims during the absence of
their owners. These soon returned, and many others with
them, but in February, 1876, when the great hegira began
to move toward Dead wood, Camp Crook lost a large per-
centage of its population. However, many remained, else
those who left soon returned, as when Jas. C. Sherman,
one of the founders of Pactola, arrived with his party in
March, 1876, a large number of miners were found work-
ing on claims on Rapid creek in that vicinity.
Mr. Sherman, to whom more than to any other person
Pactola owes its existence to-day, left Yankton with a
train of eighty men and twenty teams on the 22d of Feb-
ruary, 1876, and, after encountering storms, such as the
plains of Dakota at that season of the year only knows,
and many hardships, arrived on March 19th, at Custer,
where the party broke up and scattered through the Hills.
Mr. Sherman with nine of the party, among whom were
B. B. Benedict, L. Smith, P. Davis, W. S. Lent, and four
others, started for Dead wood, but were caught in the icy
teeth of a terrific snowstorm at Camp Crook, where, upon
being assured that the indications for placer diggings were
excellent on Rapid creek, equal to those farther north,
they decided to remain, and, as far as Mr. Sherman is
concerned, he did remain and is there yet.
Nearly all the ground for quite a distance up and down
Rapid creek was found taken, and great excitement pre-
vailed in the camp among the miners, who considered their
ground very valuable, some estimating their worth at
$50,000 for a single claim. It was nothing uncommon to
have from 250 to 300 miners present at a miners' meeting.
During the summer of 1876 Camp Crook was one of the
busiest points in the central Hills. Two stages passed
through the camp, one from Sidney, whose route was after-
wards changed from the Hills to the foot-hills via Rapid
464 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
City to Deadwood ; the other, the Cheyenne, which took
the old telegraph road from Custer to Deadwood.
In the early spring of 1876, a store of general mer-
chandise was opened at Camp Crook by Wm. Keeler, who,
in the fall of the same year, sold his establishment to
Arthur Harvey and Chas. Seip. This was the first store,
and perhaps the only one, opened at Camp Crook.
A post-office was established at Camp Crook, with Arthur
Harvey as its first postmaster, in the spring of 1877, when
the name was changed to Pactola.
During the same spring Jas. C. Sherman built the Sher-
man House — the first hotel in that region. In January,
1878, Mrs. Sherman, with her two children, arrived at
Pactola, where the family have resided ever since.
Several important mining enterprises were set on foot in
Pactola during the first years of its history, first among
which was a scheme to bring water by ditch and flume
from above to operate on the placer deposits below town.
To carry out the scheme, a company composed in part of
Judge Maguire, B. B. Benedict, and Col, Stockton, was
organized under the name of the Rapid Creek Mining &
Manufacturing Company, which built a sawmill to furnish
lumber, and employed a large number of men to construct
a flume from a point six miles above, on Rapid creek, to
the point of contemplated operations below, expending
large sums of money in prosecuting the work. By the
time three miles of the flume were completed, the company
had exhausted its capital and went to pieces.
In 1880 the Estrella Del Norte Company commenced
the construction of a new flume to Swede Bar, three miles
below, where operations were carried on for several years
with varying success, when the work was abandoned.
This same company also constructed four miles of flume
above Pactola at heavy cost, which was also abandoned.
Rapid creek and its small tributaries in the vicinity of
Pactola have been worked for placer ever since the dis-
covery of gold, and much work has also been done in the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 465
development of the quartz mine in that region, where
there arc numerous promising locations whose owners are
hopeful will in the near future be brought into prominence.
HARNEY.
Harney owes its origin to the discovery of placer gold at
that point on Battle creek, in 1876, and takes its name
from the lofty peak under whose shadow it lies. For two
years after the first discovery of gold it grew rapidly, and
soon became an important and populous camp. Yet,
although placer gold was known to exist in abundance on
the bed-rock of that stream, the great depth of the gravel
deposit, and the consequent difficulty of reaching it with
bed-rock flume, rendered their operation almost wholly im-
practicable ; hence, after two years, placer mining at that
point was comparatively abandoned, a few miners only
continuing to work the gravel on a small scale along the
rim-rock.
In 1883, however, with the object of trying to rqach the
deep gravel beds by hydraulic process, a company called
the Harney Hydraulic Gold-Mining Co. was organized and
incorporated under the general laws of Dakota Territory,
with A. J. Simmon, Wm. Claggett, and T. H. Russell, as
incorporators; with the immense nominal capital of
$2,000,000, divided into 200,000 shares of the par value of
$10 each. The plan of the company contemplated a com-
plete system of hydraulic mining on a gigantic scale on
their extensive property, which consisted of six miles along
the bed of Battle creek. Two flumes were built, one
bringing water from Grizzly gulch, the other from Battle
creek, the two meeting at the mouth of the former stream,
thence the combined water was carried to the bar deposits
in a main flume which crossed the gulch on a marvelous
trestle over 200 feet high and 700 feet long. Large sums
were expended in the construction of flumes and other
works, and it bade fair to become one of the most profit-
able enterprises in the Black Hills.
30
466 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
Work continued for one and a half years, and consider-
able gold was taken from "Mitchell's bar," just below
where Keystone now stands, when operations were sus-
pended. The stock is now held by Milwaukee parties.
The first officers of the company, which was for the most
part composed of Deadwood men, were: Hon. Wm. Clag-
gett, President; Henry Jackson, United States Army,
Vice-President; Edward W. Johnston, Secretary; E. G.
Spilman, Assistant Secretary ; E. F. Kellogg, Treasurer;
James Halley, Rapid City, Assistant Treastirer ; Richard P.
Wheelock, General Superintendent and Engineer.
Placer mining in a limited way has since been carried on
along the creek, and much prospecting and development
work has been done on quartz in the vicinity, by reason of
which a little hamlet with post-office and school continued
to exist for many years. However, Harney has now almost
lost its identity as a town, being so completely overshad-
owed by the importance of the rich mining camp of Key-
stone, about two miles up the stream, that it has neither
post-office nor school to-day.
HAVWARD.
Hayward, situated about six miles below Harney, on
Battle creek, also grew up as a result of the discovery of
placer gold on that stream.
The first discovery of gold at that point was made by
Chas. Phillips, Phillip Brown, and Judge Willis in the early
fall of 1876, but by whom, owing to the appearance of
Indians in the locality, it was temporarily abandoned. It
is told that one day shortly after their arrival, a small band
of the ubiquitous red men manifested their unwelcome
presence in the vicinity b}' firing a volley of bullets into
their camp from the summit of an adjacent hill, perforat-
ing their frying-pan, but doing no other damage, and that
the party then at once packed their belongings and hastily
left the rugged hills to their primitive solitude. Now, if
such was the case, the abandonment w\as only temporary.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 467
as the men were found there :i little later by the next party
to arrive. However, the fact remains that the above men-
tioned men made the first discovery of gold in that locality.
The next to reach that point was Chas. Hay ward, Jas.
E. Carpenter^ and six miners who hailed from Montana.
This party left Custer with a wagon-load of supplies,
which, tradition says, overturned seventeen times while
en route over the rough granite hills to Battle creek.
However, they finally reached their objective point, where
they found the first discoveries in November, 1876.
The day after their arrival a town was laid out and
named Hayward, in honor of Chas Hayward, the leader
of the party.
The town grew rapidly, soon becoming the most populous
camp in that region of the Hills. Within a period of six
months after the first discovery of gold, there were about
300 miners engaged in placer operations along Battle creek,
in the vicinity of the newly-founded town. In April, 1877,
Hayward — outrivaling Custer City in population — was
made the temporary county seat of Custer County, partic-
ulars of which are told in the history of that county. For
several years Hayward continued quite an important raining
camp, and indeed a few are yet working claims along the
creek with more or less success. A large amount of quartz
development has been done in the region around Hayward,
exposing a number of very promising gold-bearing ledges,
which will, doubtless, ere long attract the attention of
capitalists.
To-day, a little straggling hamlet, hemmed in by ex-
ceedingly lofty and rugged hills, containing some half
dozen or more families, a post-office and schoolhouse, rep-
resents the once flourishing mining camp and the erstwhile
judicial seat of Custer County.
KOCKERVILLE.
The history of Rockerville, in which there is a tinge of
the romantic, began with the discovery of the wonderful
468 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
placer gold deposits in what was afterwards called Rocker-
ville gulch, a branch of Spring creek, late in the full of
1876. This extensive deposit, which covered an area of
about six miles square, was, next to Deadwood and White-
wood gulches, the richest placer deposit found in the Bhick
Hills; consequently; soon after the discovery, an eager,
feverish, maddened throng of gold-hunters was drawn
thither in pursuit of the beckoning phantom that had, till
then, eluded their grasp. During the first few years,
therefore, the old camp of Rockerville was the scene of
mad excitement and reckless expenditure that would have
done credit to Deadwood during the palmy days of '76.
Gold dust and gold nuggets were plentiful, speculation was
rife, and if tradition is to be relied upon, " high jinks"
generally ruled the day as well as the night— especially
the night.
The discovery of this marvelous deposit was made by
Wm. Keeler in December, 1876, and this is the way it
happened: Mr. Keeler was on his way down the valley
of Spring creek, or over the hills by a short cut from Sher-
idan, with a couple of burros laden with a camp outfit,
when he was overtaken by a severe snow-storm which
compelled him to go into camp, and while in camp waiting
for the storm to abate, true to the instincts of an old
miner, he prospected a little and found the first gold in
that locality, taking out an encouraging little sum. The
next to arrive was the old-time prospector and miner, Bart
Henderson, and D. G. Silliman. Others soon followed,
and the work of washing out gold began under somewhat
unfavorable conditions.
Owing to the extreme scarcity of water, no sluicing
operations were possible in the immediate locality of the
deposit, so the gold for the most part had to be washed
out through the medium of the primitive rocker, but only
at favorable seasons of the year could sufficient of the
essential fluid be found for even the rocking process. At
times of greatest scarcity, many of the miners transported
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 469
their pay gravel and cradles in small handcarts to wher-
ever a pool of water could be found, and rocked out
their loads, often realizing $100.00 from a single cart-
load. It was during the springtide, however, when the
snow began to melt in the mountains and the water there-
from flowed in copious streams down the slopes into the
gulch, that miners reaped their richest harvest.
During the spring flood, every miner who owned a
rocker, wisely " taking the current when it served," kept
it in constant and active operation early and late, and it is
easy to imagine that the gulch, with its hundreds of cradles
rocking along the line, presented a very remarkable, as
well as an exceedingly ludicrous aspect. It is estimated
that during the first two or three years of placer operation
in Rockerville gulch, over $500,000 in gold was washed out
by the slow rocker process alone. To this extensive use
of the rocker, the town of Rockerville owes its very unique
name.
To supply water to operate these dry deposits on an exten-
sive scale, the Black Hills Placer Mining Co. was organized
and it was durino- the building of the great Rockerville
flume, completed in 1880, that the excitement in the camp
was at its zenith. This flume was an immense wooden
structure, with a capacity of 2,000 miner's inches of water
running from the dam at a point about two miles above
Sheridan, by a meandering route along the steep mountain
slope over deep gorges on lofty trestles, through which was
carried the waters of Spring creek to the rich placer beds
below, a distance of seventeen miles.
Pending the building of this flume a portable steam saw-
mill was put in operation along the line to furnish lumber
for its construction, presenting a scene of great activity
along the entire route.
Operations were carried on for about two years when,
after having produced about $500,000 of gold, litigation
put a stop to the gigantic enterprise, and mining was for a
lonz time at a standstill.
470 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
In 1881 a company called the Rockerville Gold Minin<T
Co. was formed for the purpose of constructing a bed-rock
flume, aud 1,100 feet of flume was built below town at a
cost of thousands of dollars, but the expectations of the
company were never realized.
Like nearly all mining camps, Rockerville had its Don
Quixote, in the person of a prospector named Spicer, who
besides being an enthusiastic geological theorist was also a
dreamer, and the appended story will illustrate how one of
his dreams was verified.
This man Spicer, as he lay in his bunk one night building
airy fabrics, finally fell asleep and dreamed, and in his
dream he was led to a spot about two miles down Spring
creek where, with a pick and shovel, he dug a prospect hole,
in which he found a pile of glittering gold. So vivid was
his dream upon awaking the next morning, that he hastily
dressed and with a companion started out in quest of the
place where he had seen the golden treasure in his dream.
Upon reaching the spot, which he had no difficulty in
finding, he dug a hole, and about two feet below the sur-
face, found a nugget worth in commercial value $38.00
and, as the boys say, no fooling. This remarkable find com-
pletely upset poor Spicer's mental equilibrium. He pro-
ceeded at once to form a company to put in a flume for
the purpose of draining Spring creek near where he had
found the nugget. The company spent several thousand
dollars in constructing a dam and flumes, which the first
high water in the spring washed entirely out of existence,
and, strangely enough, there was never a trace of gold
found there after.
During its flourishing days Rockerville — in addition to
its numerous business places, had a banking house which
furnished exchange and bought gold dust from the miners.
It also had at least one shrewd lawjer, as the following bit
of sharp practice will show: — '
One day a man claiming to be a member of that profes-
sion arrived in camp, and after looking over the situation^
LAST HLM'IX(J GROUND OF THK DAKOTAIIS. 471
and carefully summing up its possibilities, decided to locate
in his profession. He had no money, but, as the sequel
proves, he had considerable native shrewdness, and a vast
amount of what is vulgarly called " cheek" which served
him in good turn. Money or its equivalent he must have,
with which to build him an office and start himself in prac-
tice, and this is the way he managed to secure it : lie struck
up an acquaintance with a man, whom he persuaded to
believe that it was his patriotic duty to sue a lumberman
for cutting timber on the public domain. He then offered
his services to the defendant, whom he had caused to be
sued, and was retained, getting for his fee lumber enough
to build him a small office.
Another case will still farther illustrate the shrewdness
of the Rockerville lawyers, when the camp was young —
not the same lawyer, however. A mining case was on trial
before a justice of the peace and a jury. The defendant in
the case, who was in possession of the placer ground in
dispute, which was exceedingly rich, was advised by his
attorney to smuggle into the jury room, enough Black Hills
whisky to keep the jury drunk for several days, to stave off
an agreement. Consequently, when the verdict was finally
handed in, the ground had all been worked out by the
defendant, and the gold safely tied up in a buckskin sack.
This case is typical of many lawsuits, in which the meat
of the nut is gone before the contest is finally decided.
These stories are both founded upon fact.
Ever since the first discovery, miners have rocked and
are still rocking out grold in Rockerville gulch, and making
good wages.
Around Rockerville there exists a vast deposit of cement
containing gold and silver, which, by systematic, intelli-
gent operations, may yet be made to yield a fortune to the
operators, In this deposit is included the once famous
"Mineral Hill " property, upon which at an early date a
ten-stamp mill was erected and unsuccessfull}' operated for
a short time.
472 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
The town now contains about a dozen resident families,
has a good hotel, a post-office, and a flourishing school.
The Rapid City & Keystone stage line passes through the
town, giving it additional vitality.
CASTLETON, SITTING BULL, AND SILVER CITY.
There are a few other mining camps in Pennington
County that figured more or less prominently in the drama
of its early history — notably, Castleton and Sitting Bull
on Castle creek, and Silver City on Rapid creek. The two
former both owe their origin to the discovery of placer
gold on that stream in 1876. The site of Castleton was
laid out in July of that year, and considerable money was
expended in a futile attempt to put in bed-rock flumes,
which enterprise had to be abandoned on account of the
depth of the deposit and the impossibility of obtaining
sufficient fall for dumping purposes. However, thousands
upon thousands of placer gold have been taken from the
hills and bars along that stream, some of which are still
profitably worked. Some of the most promising quartz
mines in the Black Hills are located on Castle creek in the
vicinity of Lookout, which will, by the application of
scientific treatment to their ores, become rich gold-pro-
ducers. Silver City was early brought into prominence by
the discovery of wonderfully rich silver as well as gold-
bearing ledges in its vicinity, which are to-day attracting
the attention of capital seeking profitable investment.
KEYSTONE.
Keystone, the youngest and now richest of the mining
camps of Pennington County, is situated in among the rug-
ged hills bordering on upper Battle creek, about seven
miles southwest of Rockerville. It dates its short history
from 1891, and owes its present prosperity mostly to the
LAST HUNTING OUOUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 473
-successful operations of the Holy Terror Gold Mining Co.
The following is a summary history of the mines to which
Keystone owes its origin and present prestige : —
The Keystone mine was located in December, 1891, by
Wm. B. Franklin, Thomas C. Blair, and Jacob Reed, who
in 1892 sold the property to a number of St. Paul capital-
ists organized under the name of the Keystone Gold Mining
Co. In the fall of 1892 the company erected a twenty-stamp
mill and put it in operation on the mine first with Major A.
J. Simmons as superintendent and general manager, and
later under the management of Col. L. R. Stone, of St,
Paul.
This company operated the mill with more or less con-
tinuity until the property was bonded by the Holy Terror
Gold Mining Co. in the fall of 1897. During its opera-
tion it is claimed that the ore of the mine averaged $7.50
per ton.
The Holy Terror Lode was located by Wm. B. Franklin
and Thos. C. Blair, on June 28th, 1894, and was subse-
quently sold to John J. Fayel of Keystone, John S. George,
and other Milwaukee capitalists, organized under the name
of the Holy Terror Gold Mining Company. The company
erected a ten-stamp mill at the mine, which has since been
operated under the supervision of John J. Fayel, one of
the owners of the property. The ore from the Holy Terror
is mostly free milling and of high grade, averaging, it is
asserted, from $15 to $20 per ton of ore, which, judging
from the monthly dividends already paid to its stockhold-
ers, is not an overestimate. Since September, 1897, when
the first dividend was paid, the company has issued checks
in the sum of $108,000 in payment of dividends, which, con-
sidering the heavy expenditures for machinery and the loss
resulting from a large amount of dead work on the mine,
is a remarkable showing for a ten-stamp mill.
The two mines, whiqh are only 500 feet apart, are being
connected by cuts from the lower levels of the respective
474 THE BLACK HILLS: OK,
mines, and when the option of the Holy Terror Company on
the Keystone property matures, and the deal is consummated ,
the consolidated mines will include under one management
the richest vein of permanence yet discovered in the Black
Hills. With the additional twenty stamps to the Keystone
battery contemplated, the two mills will have an aggregate
of fifty stamps, which, when put in operation on the prop-
erty, should, according to the rules of simple proportion,
make it no mean rival to the great Homestake in the pay-
ment of dividends. It will certainly disprove the erstwhile
claim that no rich gold ledges existed outside of the great
northern "belt."
In the vicinity of Keystone there is also a ten-stamp
custom mill, owned by D. B. Ingram & Company, which
runs on ore from the " Big Hit," " Bismarck," " Bullion,"
"Lucky Boy," and " Tom Austin" mines, all of which
have proved to be rich producing properties.
Keystone contains a present population of 1,500, and has
two church organizations, the Congregational and Metho-
dist, a large school, but as yet no school building. The
camp has one newspaper establishment, three hotels, two
assay offices, and about twenty-five other business places
of various kinds. The site of Keystone is patented for
placer ground and owned for the most part by the Holy
Terror Mining Company.
One of the first permanent settlers in the vicinity of
Keystone was Fred. J. Cross. Mr. Cross came to that local-
ity early in 1877, long before the Keystone, Holy Terror,
or any other of the promising mines thereabout, saw the
light of day. In his cosy cabin, among the spruces and
the pines of Buckeye gulch, he has lived ever since, and
moreover, during the years he has gathered in his cabin a
collection of rich ore specimens and rare curios, that is
worth going a long journey to see. Mr. Cross was Custer
County's first Register of Deeds, having been appointed
to that office by Governor Pennington in the spring of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OB" THE DAKOTAIIS.
475
1877. He was also twice elected County Commissioner of
Pennington County, and is a member of its present Board.
The other small hamlets and post-offices in Pennington
County are Silver City, Merritt, Lookout, Redfern, Mystic,
Laverne, Moulton, Dakota City, Creston, and Farming-
dale.
-s^M.
^''iWi^^Y'ftWififTi
476 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXXir.
LAWRENCE COUNTY.
Lawrence County originally extended from the two
branches of the Cheyenne river on the east, to Wyoming
Territory on the west, and the Belle Fourche on the north
to Pennington County on the south, measuring eighty-seven
miles in length from east to west by an average width of
about twenty-four miles from north to south, comprising
an area of a little more than 2,000 square miles, but by
reason of subsequent encroachments upon its original
domain, it has been cut down to its present limitations. In
running the line of Butte County in 1883, a strip of nearly
six miles in width was cut off, along the northern boundary,
and when in 1889 Lawrence and Meade counties came to
the parting of their ways, the latter took with it the east-
ern portion comprising more than one-half of its original
territory.
The county of Lawrence is now bounded on the north
by Butte County ; on the east by Meade ; on the south by
Pennington County; and on the west by Wyoming, measur-
ing in length from north to south twenty-four miles, by
thirty miles in width from east to west, making an area of
720 square miles.
While Lawrence County is the smallest in superficial area,
in point of wealth and population it is the most important of
the Black Hills counties, containing over half of their entire
population, and a proportionate amount of their accumu-
lated wealth.
The gold-bearing region of the county, which lies mostly
within a radius of six miles of Deadwood, consists of
extremely bold and rugged hills, which descend abruptly
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAIvOTAHS. 477
to the plains on the north, the streams having a descent of
from 150 to 200 feet per mile until reaching the open
plains, while the region around their headwaters on the
southwest is comparatively level. The principal streams
draining the area of Lawrence County are the Redwater,
Spearfish, False Bottom, and Whitewood creeks, the Spear-
fish being the longest and largest stream wholly within the
county, carrying a large volume of water throughout the
year to the Redwater river. Along the valleys of these
streams and Centennial prairie are the richest and best
developed agricultural lands in Lawrence County. Here
and there through the county are considerable areas of
elevated prairie land, notably Boulder Park, which con-
tains hundreds of acres of fine grazing land, — portions of
which are adapted to agricultural purposes.
The first meeting of the commissioners, appointed to
organize Lawrence County, was held at Crook City in
April, 1877, from which it appears to have been the orig-
inal intention of the board to locate the county seat at that
point, which was then thought by some to be the coming
town of the Black Hills. Contrary to their original inten-
tion, however, although large inducements were offered in
the way of town lots, by the people of Crook Cit}', the
board adjourned to Deadwood without, it is believed, trans-
acting any business. At the adjourned meeting the county
was organized and named Lawrence, in honor of Col. John
Lawrence, the county's first treasurer, at which time the
temporary county seat was located at Deadwood, which, in
the following November, was chosen the permanent capital
by the popular vote of the county.
The first oflScers of Lawrence County were as follows : —
Commissioners, Fred. T. Evans, John Wolzmuth, and
A. W. Lavender; Sheriff, Seth Bullock; Treasurer, John
Lawrence ; Register of Deeds, Jas. Hand; Probate Judge,
C. E. Hanrahan ; Prosecuting Attorney, A. J. Fianner;
Superintendent of Public Instruction, Chas. McKinnis;
Assessor, James; Coroner, Dr, Babcock.
478 THE BLACK JIILLS ; OK,
During the following May a change was made, and Chas.
McKinnis was appointed Judge of Probate and C. E. Han-
rahan. Superintendent of Public Instruction.
Judge Granville G. Bennett was appointed first Judge of
the Black Hills Circuit Court and Gen. A. R. Z. Dawson,
first Clerk of Courts.
Prior to the election in November, 1877, the commis-
sioners divided the county into four voting precincts, viz. :
Deadwood, Gayville (changed to Troy), Crook City, and
Spearfish, and at the election the following county officers
were chosen for one year: —
Commissioners, Jas. Ryan, B. Whitson, and Geo. Gates;
Sheriff, John Manning; Register of Deeds, Chas. McKin-
nis; Treasurer, Brigham; Judge of Probate, L. W.
Kuykendall; Prosecuting Attorney, Joseph Miller.
Large expenditures were made by the county during the
first two years after its organization, in the construction of
roads and bridges throughout the county, many of which
were badly damaged or entirely washed away by the dis-
astrous flood of 1883. The damage, however, was soon
repaired and put in better condition than before.
During the first year after the inauguration of the public
school system, fourteen schools were established in Law-
rence County, the first of which is claimed to have been
taught at Central City.
The courts of Lawrence County were held in a rented
building on Main street, until 1879, when the commissioners
purchased of Fred. T. Evans a two-story brick structure,
designed for a business house, which was converted into
the present courthouse of Lawrence County at a cost of
$12,000.00.
The assessed valuation of Lawrence County in 1898
amounted to $4,442,628.00, its total indebtedness to $431,-
250.00, and its population in 1896 was 27,000, which con-
stitutes more than one-half of the entire population of the
Black Hills.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 479
DEAUWOOD.
Deadvvood entered upon the second year of its history
with increased assurances of permanency and prosperity.
The rich placer deposits of Deadwood, Whitewood, and
other gulches, were supplemented by new discoveries of
extensive areas of deep gravel and rich hill diggings, from
which multiplied thousands were later mined; the quartz
ledges in the vicinity, too, were beginning to yield their
tribute of gold, all of which found its way to the great
center of trade, Deadwood. During its second year,
capital began to make its appearance, and here and there,
a number of two-story substantial business blocks reared
their imposing individualities above the medley of one-story
structures, thrown up at haphazard during the excite-
ment of the first year, and several new and important
enterprises were inaugurated.
Early in 1877 two daily newspapers were established in
Deadwood, to reproduce the strange sights and sounds, and
chronicle the comedies and tragedies of the thronged city
and the mining camps round about. Of these the Dead-
wood Daily Times was the first, the initial number appear-
ing on April 7th, 1877, under the editorial management
and sole proprietorship of Porter Warner, who has ably
conducted the enterprise, and alone controlled its destinies
through the vicissitudes of a little more than twenty years.
On the 15th of May following, the Black Hills Weekly
Pioneer f whose history has already been told, was con-
verted into a daily paper.
In the early part of 1877, two new banking institutions
were opened in Deadwood, to aid those previously estab-
lished in furnishing exchange for the immense gold dust
production, and a safe deposit for the surplus earnings of
the miners. The first of these was opened by Stebbins,
Wood & Post in a building erected on that part of Lee
street now occupied by the First National Bank building.
It may be remembered by then residents of Deadwood,
480 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
that while this building was in process of construction, in
the latter part of March, 1877, several armed men were
stationed around the site to protect the workmen from ex-
pected interference by the city marshal, or the owners of
the corner lot on the north.
Be it known that the public street was being appropri-
ated for building purposes contrary to the letter and spirit
of the rules and regulations governing the city — hence the
precaution. Among those defiant guards who stood grim
and determined, with guns well in hand, were Noah Siever
and the unfortunate Ed. Durham, both of whom will be
well remembered by all old-timers of Deadvvood. No phy-
sical force was used, however, but whether through fear of
the threatening attitude of the builders, or indifference
as to the blocking of the street, which runs plump into a
steep hill directly in the rear, is a matter of conjecture.
At any rate the building was rushed to a speedy comple-
tion, taking but three or four days to finish the structure
from foundation to roof, and was immediately let to W.
R. Stebbins, who associated with Wood & Post, opened its
doors for business on April 6th, 1877, with a cash capital
of $10,000.00. This important event in Deadwood's his-
tory was inaugurated by a grand ball that night in the
Grand Central Hotel.
The building, a two-story frame shell, was owned by
Messrs. Siever, Durham, Hamilton, and Scott, and was let
by them to the banking firm at an annual rental, it is
stated, of $3,000.00, the upper story being subrented by
Porter Warner for the office of the Dendwood Daily Times,
established something more than a month later. An ex-
ceedingly tragic event is recalled at the mention of the name
of one of the owners of this building — a tragedy which
sent one man swiftly into eternity, and another through
the portals of a gloomy prison.
It was one Sunday in early April, 1878, that the unfor-
tunate Ed. Durham entered a place called " Progressive
Hall," located a few doors below the corner of Lee and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
481
Main street on the north, for the last time. He had been
there before, it appears, on the same mission, and demanded
the immediate settlement of an account which he held
against the proprietor, Chris. Hoffman. A quarrel ensued.
STAGE COACH, MAIN STREET, DEADWOOD.
during which Durham, goaded and desperate, quickly and
with true aim, leveled his six-shooter and fired, killing
Hoff'man instantly. Notwithstanding the fact that civil
law was in force at that time, the friends of the murdered
man made an active effort to work up a sentiment among the
people, in favor of meting out summary punishment to the
31
482 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
guilty man, which, however, was frowned down by their
better sense and the law was permitted to take its course.
Durham was tried by Judge Alanson H. Barnes, who at
the time was holding court for Judge Bennett, and by him
sentenced to twelve years in the Yankton penitentiary, but
after serving eight years of his sentence he was released on
the petition of the people of the Hills, to which he never
returned, that being a condition of his release.
The second to establish a bank in 1877 was the firm of
Brown & Thum, who erected a bank building on the
northwest corner of Main and Lee streets, and opened its
doors for business in the latter part of May of that year.
Who, of the then residents of Deadwood, will not remem-
ber the two-story structure, whose marble-blocked facade
loomed up so conspicuously above its less pretentious
neighbors on the left of the bank of Stebbins, Wood &
Post? It may be recalled, too, that the opening of the
bank was made the occasion of a grand social function
gotten up by prominent gentlemen of Deadwood for the
night of May 24th, 1877, in compliment to the enterprising
firm ; and perchance there are some yet in Deadwood who,
on that occasion, were prominent figures on the floor of the
gaily decorated and brilliantly lamp-lighted building, where
about fifty couples of Deadwood's fair women and brave
men trod the '* giddy mazes " to the enchanting strains of
a six-piece orchestra. The decorations, menu, etc., of that
old-time social affair were under the especial charge of
Messrs. Amerman & Sutherland, of the General Custer
House, who acquitted themselves with honor to themselves
and credit to the occasion.
POST-OFFICE.
In April, 1877, a regular United States post-office
was established in Deadwood with R. O. Adams as its
first postmaster, the first office being opened on Sher-
man street, South Deadwood. Mr. Adams continued in
office until May or June, 1879, when he abdicated, and was
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 483
succeeded by Sol. Star, who occupied the office until 1881,
when he was succeeded by J. A. Harding. In 1882 the
office was removed from Sherman to Main street, where
it has since remained. The Dead wood post-office, from the
standpoint of receipts and disbursements through the office,
is one of the most important in South Dakota to-day.
CHURCHES.
The first religious organization in Deadwood was formed
by the Congregational Society in the fall of 1876, and their
first church edifice was built during the early part of 1877,
the first service being held in the building in July of that
year (see Chapter of First Events).
Thejecond was formed by the Methodist society, which
was organized in the fall of 1877, by Rev. Jas. Williams,
who was sent to the Black Hills missionary field from the
Northwestern Iowa conference. In December, 1880, the
society was incorporated under the name of the First Meth-
odist Episcopal Church of Deadwood. A lot was purchased
at the corner of Pine and Water streets at a cost of $1,000,
and subsequently a church building erected thereon. Despite
the bulkhead that had been erected to protect the property
against the annual high tides of Whitewood creek, the
building and lot, from spire to bed-rock, was remorselessly
swept away by the disastrous flood of 1883.
The Roman Catholics, too, were early in the field.
Father John Lonegan, who was sent to the Black Hills by
Bishop O'Connor, of Omaha, said his first mass in a shop
belonging to Mr. Webster, on Sherman street, on the 22d
of May, 1877. During the summer of 1877 a small church
building was erected on the site now occupied by the Cath-
olic church of Deadwood, on Williams street.
The society which formed the nucleus of the now flour-
ishing Episcopal church of Deadwood was organized during
the summer of 1878. Rev. E. J. K. Lessell was appointed
missionary to the Black Hills in July of that year by Bishop
Hare, who, made his first visit to the Hills in the following
484 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
October. In September, 1880, he again visited Deaclwood,
and on the 12lh of that month hiid the corner-stone of the
church. On Easter Sunday, April 17th, 1881, the first
service was held, with Kev. Geo. C. Pennell as minister.
The first public school building in Deadwood — a two-
story frame structure — was erected near the corner of
Pine and Water streets in the fall of 1877, and later, in the
fall of the same year. Prof. Dolph Edwards, assisted by
Miss Eva Deffenbacher, opened and taught Deadwood' s
first public school.
The first company of the Deadwood Fire Department to
organize was the Pioneer Hook and Ladder Company, in
June, 1877, which was also, doubtless, the first organization
of the kind in the Black Hills. The preliminary meeting
for the organization of this company was held on June 19th,
1877, at which time the kind and name of the company to
be organized was decided upon, and a committee on organ,
ization, consisting of W. J. Thornby, John Manning, and
Robert Chew, was appointed. On the 25th of June the
organization was completed with John Manning as Fore-
man ; H. B. Beeman, First Assistant ; John Worth, Second
Assistant ; and James McPherson, Treasurer ; and on the
roster of members appeared the names of sixty-four of
Deadvvood's business men. A hundred canvas buckets and
the running gear of an old wagon fitted up as a hook and
ladder truck, constituted the equipment of this pioneer fire
company.
In January, 1879, the first hose company was organized,
but disbanded before the great fire in September of that
year.
In December, 1879, the South Deadwood and Homestake
companies were organized, and joined the department.
According to the annual report of Chief Frawley to the
Mayor and City Council, the Deadwood Fire Department
in 1898 consisted of five companies, with an aggregate of
15(5 energetic firemen, the equipment of the department
consisting of eight hose carts, 4,200 feet of good hose, a
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 485
hook and ladder truck, n fifty-five gallon chemical engine,
banners and regalia for service and display.
During the two succeeding years, the major part of the
nondescript shacks that had sprung up in a day, were torn
down, and in their stead appeared more solid business
structures, and banking, mercantile, and other kinds of
legitimate enterprises multiplied in proportion.
On September 1st, 1878, the First National Bank, —
believed to be the first legitimate banking institution in the
Black Hills, was organized with L. R. Graves as President,
and S. N. Wood as Cashier, the original institution chauoj-
ing hands in August, 1879, when O. J. Salisbury became
President; D. K. Dickinson, Vice-President; and D. A.
McPherson, Cashier. The first building occupied by this
bank, which was identical with the structure erected on
Lee street, and rented, but subsequently purchased, by Steb-
bins, Wood & Post, in 1877, was destroyed by the fire of
1879, but the books, papers, etc., were preserved in the
vault and the business was continued in a new building of
brick and iron, soon after constructed, which is occupied
by the First National Bank of Deadwood to-day.
The next was a private bank opened by Stebbins, Post,
& Mund, in March, 1879, with a capital stock of $20,000.00
which it was soon found necessary to increase to $50,-
000.00. In November of the same year the private concern
was merged into the Merchants' National Bank, which
opened with a capital stock of $100,000, and was officered
as follows: W. R. Stebbins, President ; Seth Bullock, Vice-
president; and Alvin Fox, Cashier. A new brick bank
building, when on the verge of completion, was destroyed
by the great fire of 1879.
On the day succeeding the fire, work was commenced on
a new structure which was completed in 1880, the bank
meanwhile continuing business in a temporary building.
Those early banking establishments were prosperous in-
stitutions, their aggregate business reaching up into mill-
ions of dollars annually. The early bullion product of the
486 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Hills which was handled by these banks was in itself no
small factor in making up the sum total.
THE GREAT FIRE.
There being but scant room for expansion in the con-
tracted valleys below, the rapidly increasing homes, un-
able to find a respectable foothold on the lower levels,
began to climb higher and higher up the steep slope of
Forest Hill and also to extend up the forking defiles of
Whitewood and Deadwood gulches, and on to the low
plateaus of the former stream. In fact Deadwood had
nearly outgrown the fortuitous conditions of its origin,
when the first great calamity befell the ambitious young
city.
On the night of September 25th, 1879, a little fire was
accidentally kindled which spread with the rapidity of a
race-horse over nearly the entire business portion of the
town, leaving nothing in its wide pathway but heaps of
ashes and masses of smoking ruins. The destruction was
speedy and complete.
The next morning's sun that had last set upon a pros-
perous business community rose upon a widely different
scene. Hundreds of people, — men and women, — many
of the latter who had fled precipitately up from the pursu-
ing flames, in scanty attire, lined the slope of Forest Hill,
and looked helplessly down upon the smouldering ruins of
their property and in many instances their homes.
The fire originated in the Empire bakery, a frame build-
ing located in a well-built-up portion of Sherman street,
kept by Mrs. EUsner. The fire quickly spread and com-
municated with the hardware store of Jensen & Bliss in
the same block, in which kegs of black powder were
stored. The fire spreading rapidly, soon after the building
was wrapped in flames and the powder ignited, when there
occurred a terrific explosion which sent a shower of burn-
ing cinders broadcast over the doomed city. In a few
moments the Welch House on Lee street was ablaze, thence
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 487
the fire leaped onto Main street, clown which it sped from
one inflammable structure to another, until the whole of
that portion of the town from the old courthouse north,
to Williams street and to Chinatown on the south, was in
one continuous blaze. As the various explosives Avere
reached on its swift pace down Main street explosion after
explosion took place, expediting the work of destruction
and adding to the terror of the already stricken people.
As Deadwood at that time had no perfected water sys-
tem for fire purposes nothing could be done to stay the
progress of the fire, it only stopping at last for lack of
material to feed upon. Every building, brick and frame,
from Pine and Sherman streets to Chinatown, covering an
area of about one-half by one-quarter of a mile, was con-
sumed with their contents ; the bank vaults and a few fire-
proof store houses alone withstanding the destructive
element.
The fire of 1879 was to Deadwood what the great fire of
1871 was to Chicago, only the blow fell more heavily on
the former, in that it was hundreds of miles by wagon
road away from its base of supplies.
By a singular coincidence a woman was innocently at the
root of both disasters, and, moreover, there is another point
of similarity.
The business men of Deadwood, with the same Western
pluck and determination, proceeded without delay to rear
upon the ruins a far more beautiful and enduring city.
The business men of Deadwood believed in the old adage
which says : " There's no use in crying over spilled milk,"
so, putting their convictions into practice instead of fold-
ing their hands and shedding unavailing tears over the
dreadful calamity, they at once buckled to the work of
rebuilding new structures upon the ashes of the old, and
starting anew. They immediately, by telegram, ordered
new stocks of goods to be forwarded by express to Dead-
wood, procured lumber from the nearest sawmill, and pro-
ceeded to rake away the smoking ruins from the hot founda-
488 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
tions upon which the temporary buildings were erected and
opened for business within twenty-four hours after the
burning. Within forty-eight hours thereafter, foundations
were laid for several brick blocks, which in ninety days
were finished and ready for occupancy. The work of
rebuilding was continued until the entire burnt area was
covered with substantial structures, of material capable of
resisting to a great degree the action of the destructive
element.
It may be said that Deadwood practically dates its per-
manency from the great conflagration of 1879. A better
order of affairs, such as could not have been hoped for
under its former regime, was soon established, placing the
town upon a more progressive basis as well as a more
dignified plane.
DEADWOOD 'S W^ATER SYSTEM.
On the 30th day of June, 1879, the commissioners of
Lawrence County in behalf of the city of Deadwood,
entered into contract with the Black Hills Canal & Water
Co. to supply the city with water for a period of twenty
years, and on the 29th day of October of the same year
the system was completed. The supply of water for the
system is obtained from mountain springs on City, Spring,
and Elk creeks, and conducted through about eight miles
of bed-rock flumes and pipes to large reservoirs, situated
on a hill overlooking City creek, over 200 feet above Main
street, and thence distributed through pipes to every part
of the city. From this elevation the pressure of the water
is great, obviating the necessity of engines for fire pur-
poses. All that Deadwood's eflScient fire laddies have to do,
in case of fire, is to remove the plugs, attach the hose, when
the water rushes through them with the force of a catapult.
When the contract with the Black Hills Canal & Water Co.
expires in October, 1899, Deadwood will, perhaps, estab-
lish a water system of her own.
In the spring of 1882, the Black Hills Telephone Ex-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TPIE DAKOTAHS. 489
-change was established in Deadwood, by W. M. and J. L.
Baird, and the system now, with its 300 or more miles of
wire outside of the city, puts its citizens in convenient
speaking communication with every city and camp of im-
portance in the Black Hills.
DEADWOOD INCORPORATED.
In 1881 Deadwood was incorporated as a city, by act of
the Territorial Legislature, and separated into four wards,
each ward being represented by two members to the Com-
mon Council. By this act, Deadwood, South Deadwood,
Cleveland, Ingleside, Elizabethtown, Chinatown, Fountain
City, Montana City, and other hamlets clustering around
Deadwood, were incorporated into one city. From the time
of this union of municipal interests, the rivalry and strained
relations which had from the first existed between Dead-
wood and South Deadwood were reduced to a minimum.
Judge D. McLaughlin was first Mayor of Greater Deadwood.
BOARD OF EDUCATION.
In March, 1881, a Board of Education was provided for
by act of the Legislature, and the consolidated city was
constituted an independent school district, subdivided into
four wards, each ward being represented by two members
of the Board of Education.
During the same year, the cit}' voted to issue bonds for
school purposes to the amount of $12,000 ; and two school
buildings were erected, one in the first ward (Elizabeth-
town), and a large central brick building, in the third
ward, which building was swept away by the flood of 1883.
MANUFACTURES.
In 1881, the Deadwood Flouring Mill Company, consist-
ing of Sol. Star, Seth Bullock, and Harris Franklin, was
organized, and a fine steam plant, with a capacity of 150
pounds of flour per day, was erected during the same year,
at a cost of $60,000 for building and equipments. The
490 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
grain used by this mill, when in operation, was grown
exclusively in and around the Black Hills, and no better
wheat is produced in the world than is grown in the fertile
valleys of the Hills, and no better flour was ever manufac-
tured than the old Board of Trade flour, turned out by the
Dead wood Steam Flouring Mill. The industry is now at a
standstill, owing, it is alleged, to a lack of a suflBcient
supply of native grain.
Several other important manufacturing industries were
established in Deadwood about that period of its history,
such as brick, sash and door manufactories, iron foundries,
wagon factories, planing mills, etc., the latter turning out
millions of feet of dressed lumber annually from timber
cut from the surrounding: forests.
The usual secret orders and benevolent associations com-
mon to cities of its class were early organized in Dead-
wood, viz. : Masonic, Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias,
Miners' Union, Liberal League, etc. The first steps taken
toward the organization of Masonic and Odd Fellow lodges
were away back in 1876, on the occasion of the funerals of
Isaac Brown and Chas. Holland, as before recorded.
THE GREAT FLOOD.
In the midst of its prosperity, however. Dead wood's prog-
ress was rudely arrested by the great flood of 1883. As
it has been written, and graphically written, too, doubtless
every one in the Black Hills is already familiar with the
story. Yet, realizing that no history of Deadwood will be
quite complete without, at least, a brief record of an event
which caused such incalculable destruction of property
coupled with loss of life, a condensed account of the cause
and disastrous effects of the great deluge is appended.
It may uot be out of place to preface the account with a
brief reference to a previous, but far less disastrous, flood,
which visited Deadwood in 1878, and which might have
served as a warning to its citizens of the dangerous possi-
bilities of the situation. This flood occurred it is thouo;ht
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 491
soon after the phenomenal snow-fall in the spring of 1878,
which no one living in the Hills at the time is liable to
forget. Yet it may have been somewhat later in the year.
It Avas in 1878 that the swollen streams of Deadwood
and Whitewood rushed down the sjulches and, after unitint;
their waters below, carried from their foundations a num-
ber of small structures that had encroached too closely upon
the borders of the latter stream. It would not have been
quite so damaging, perhaps, hud not a dam that had be-
come gorged above on Whitewood creek given way to the
pressure, letting or rather precipitating an avalanche of
water which swept in great waves ten or more feet deep
down the valley, flooding the buildings on the lower levels;,
and undermining the Welch House on Lee street to such
an extent, that there was imminent danger of its toppling
over into the turbulent stream.
In connection with this flood an act of heroism is recalled
which is worthy of record. When the avalanche of water
came, a rather slightly built man was seen struggling
bravely through the water nearly waist deep towards a
building near a Deadwood street bridge, in the door of
which stood knee-deep in water, a stout woman of 200
pounds avoirdupois, calling lustily for help. Upon reach-
ing the imperiled woman, he clasped his arms around her
ample waist, and gallantly but pantingly bore her safely to
higher ground, I meanwhile standing on the opposite side
of the street in two feet of water laughing heartily at the
ludicrous spectacle. That man was a hero, and his name
was John Meade, of the firm of Robert Chew &Co., located
on Lee street, whom doubtless many of the old-timers will
remember. As the incident is not essential to this history
the name of the recued woman is withheld. But I have
digressed and will now return to the more important story
of the flood of 1883.
It was in the early part of May, 1883, about the usual
time for the final breaking up of winter in the Black Hills,
that a heavy snowstorm broke over the northern Hills
492 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
which, supplemented by a warm protracted rain, accelerated
the melting of the unusually heavy snows that had accu-
mulated in tbe mountains during the previous winter,
bringing down small rivers of waters through hundreds of
gulches and ravines into the main streams, which went
coursing madly on down the narrow valleys to the doomed
city, sweeping everything in its pathway and leaving
devastation and death behind.
About the middle of May the situation became alarming
but nothing could be done to avert the impending calamity,
more than to remove valuable property to places of safety.
All that day the ever-increasing volume of water came
rushing down from above, piling up its freight of trees,
roots, branches, lumber, logs, sluice boxes, cordwood, and
all sorts of debris against the Lee street bridge, despite the
herculean efforts of the citizens of Dead wood to clear the
way of obstructions. Towards evening the irresistible cur-
rent turned and found for itself a new channel through the
city. By order of the city authorities a number of build-
ings that stood in the track of the water were speedily torn
down and removed to prevent its further spread. All the
night through, with the appalling roar of the mighty tor-
rent sounding in their ears like a veritable Niagara, the
firemen and numerous citizens struggled valiantly to re-
lieve the gorged condition of the channels, while others
were engaged in removing valuable property from such
buildings as seemed destined to destruction. That was a
terrible night, the like of which the people of Deadwood
would not care to have repeated.
Comparatively little damage was done by the flood on
Whitewood creek until reaching the toll gate below the
mouth of Gold Run, where the toll house was carried from
its foundation, and its three occupants, Mr. and Mrs. G.
W. Chandler, and Gustave Holthausen, drowned. These
unfortunate people had left the building but had returned
to save some household goods, when the house with its
inmates was suddenly swept into the boiling flood. At
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
493
Cleveland, the waters overleaped their natural barrier, car-
ryino- awav a number of residences that stood in their
course, then on down the street rushed the torrent, which
DEADWOOD AFTER THE GREAT FLOOD OF 1883.
soon cut its way around theOaulkhead that had been erected
to protect the public property and with one mighty sweep
struck first the public school building, then the Methodist
494 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
church, picking them up as if mere toys and carrying them
with their foundations in broken fragments down the swift
current.
Meanwhile Deadwood creek on the opposite side of the
narrow divide came rushing frantically down the gulch,
bearing on its turbulent bosom all kinds of flotsam from
the upper camps, as if eager seemingly to join its twin
sister in a mutual work of destruction below.
Although the several little hamlets clustering around
Central City suffered greatly by the flood, the greatest
damage was sustained by the placer mines along Deadwood
gulch ; especially heavy was the loss to Messrs- Allen and
Thompson, whose extensive and expensive bed-rock flume
and bulkhead was either entirely washed away or irrecov-
erably buried beneath an accumulation of sand, gravel, and
boulders.
Alter the subsidence of the flood, Deadwood and its en-
vironments presented a very sorry aspect, in fact all of the
gulches from the sources of the streams to the plains was
a scene of complete wreckage and destruction. The loss
to Deadwood as a city, and to its individual citizens, was
enormous, as besides those destroyed by the authority of
the city, many buildings, as well as other valuable property,
were entirely swept away, and many more were badly dam-
aged by the flood — amounting, it is estimated, to an
aggregate loss of from $250,000 to $300,000.
The blow was a telling one to the business men of Dead-
wood, but, with wonderful recuperative powers they soon
rallied to the work of repairing damages. Bridges were
rebuilt, streets were repaired and graded up, and business
buildings were placed upon a more substantial foundation
than before the flood, and moreover, to gruard against anv
future escapades, the unruly streams were curbed with an
enormous bulkhead or crib, which was first constructed
from Deadwood street to Wall street, but afterwards ex-
tended at each extremity, until now it is over a mile in
lensth.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
495
The structure is built up from bed-rock of heavy timbers
in the form of cribs or sections, and solidly filled in with
heavy boulders and coarse sand, forming a perfect safe-
guard to the city against future floods.
A new two-story school building of brick was soon after
erected, far above high-water mark, beyond the possible
reach of floods. Since, another school buildinsr has been
erected at Ingleside, in the third ward.
496 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTER XXXIII.
NEW DEADWOOD.
Deadwood has largely expanded, both in material growth
and commercial importance, since its recovery from the
overwhelming disaster of 1883, and all evidences of the
terrible baptism of fire and flood through which it has
passed have long been obliterated. The narrow valley
has been widened, fine brick and stone blocks have been
erected along the main thoroughfares of the greater city,
indicating the prosperity of its merchants along the differ-
ent lines of trade, extensive commercial enterprises have
been established within the city limits, which justly entitle
it to the distinction of being the commercial metropolis of
the Black Hills; as a matter of fact it could not, in the
nature of things, be otherwise. Its advantageous situation
in the practical center of the great northern gold belt, sur-
rounded by hills whose product comes to the valley as
naturally as comes the water from their slopes, and the
superior facilities afforded for the treatment of all kinds
of rebellious ore, with which they abound, makes Dead-
wood a commercial necessity.
deadwood' S REDUCTION PLANTS.
To its finely equipped reduction plants, more than to
any other factor, Deadwood owes its present commercial
prestige and importance. As is well known, prior to about
1890 the greater part of the bullion product of the Hills
was derived from the low grade deposits of the free mill-
ing belt which yield readily to the ordinary treatment of
stamp mill and amalgamation, while vast bodies of rich
gold ore, carrying metals difiicult of separation, were lying
ir.Xkii. ' ""'Mt^^A
LAST HUNTING GKOUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 4it7
practically valueless in the ground for lack of proper facili-
ties, or perhaps, it would better be said, want of knowl-
edge of their correct treatment. Science at last solved the
problem.
By the continued and persistent experiments of metal-
lurgists, with the refractory ores of the Hills, two
processes were finally discovered, which proved satisfac-
tory — the chlorination and pyritic smelting — later experi-
ment adc'ing a third, known as the cyanide process.
These invaluable discoveries, the credit for which is largely
due to Prof. Franklin R. Carpenter, of Deadwood, resulted
in the immediate erection of the Golden Reward Chlorina-
tion, and the Deadwood & Delaware Smelting plants.
In 1887 the Golden Reward Company built their first
plant, at an approximate cost of $200,000, which soon after
its completion was destroyed by fire. The works were at
once rebuilt, and put in operation, with a reducing capacity
of 125 tons of ore per day.
The Deadwood & Delaware Smelting Company built their
first plant in 1888, at an expenditure for buildings, equip-
ments and mines of some half million dollars, and put it in
ope. ition, with a running capacity of 175 tons of ores per
day.
On the night of March 10th, 1898, as if by the irony of
fate this costly plant was also destroyed by fire, but was
immediately replaced b}- one of largely increased capacity,
built entirely of steel, with greatly improved facilities for
the handling and treatment of refractory ores. This
immense pyritic smelting plant, which operates largely
though not exclusively on custom ores, the company having
numerous valuable raining properties of its own, produces,
it is estimated, about $2,000,000 a year in gold. The
institution, including smelter and mines, is under the
general management of Piof. Frank R. Carpenter, of
Deadwood.
The third reduction works established within the limits
of the city were built by the Gold and Silver Extraction,
32
498 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Mining & Milling Company, and employs the cyanide pro-
cess, the plant having a capacity of seventy-five tons per
day. These three plants, each employing different methods
of treatment, together with the Kildonan Chloriuation
works, erected in 1896 at Pluma, a short distance above
Dead wood, brings the aggregate daily capacity of reduction
to about 1,000 tons per day of ores which assay all the way
from $15.00 to $500.00 in gold per ton, — ores which,
prior to the establishment of these great enterprises, were
permitted to lie idle where nature's processes placed them.
An intricate network of narrow-gauge railroads brings
the refractory ore product of the prolific districts of Bald
Mountain, Ruby Basin, and Garden City, some miles away,
and Spruce and Two-Bit gulches, near by, to these works
for treatment, ta.xing them to their full capacity, with an
ever growing demand for increased facilities. This com-
paratively new business has been estimated at a monthly
aggregate of a half million dollars.
deadwood's first railroad.
Up to 1890, Deadwood notwithsanding its local ad-
vantages, lacked one of the chief requisites of complete
commercial success, — outside railway communication.
Until that time, barring the inter-urban, narrow-gauge
short line, built between' Deadwood and Lead, it had no
railroad, and for two years after the advent of the first
railroad in the Black Hills it seemed somewhat problem-
atical, owing to its geographical inaccessibility, whether
the line would be extended to Deadwood or not. After
two years of indecision, however, when the " Burlington "
Railway Company turned its wonderful line in the direc-
tion of the Black Hills, and was making rapid strides
through the mountain fastnesses, towards Deadwood, engi-
neering skill speedily solved the difficult problem. A
branch road of the F. E. & M. V. Railway was built from
Whitewood, and the first locomotive with passenger car
attached, came steaming down the incline, through the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 499
long tunnel into Deudvvood, on the 29th chiy of December,
1890. The line was later extended to the refactory ore
district, around Bald Mountain, about nine miles west and
south of Dead wood.
On the 28th day of January, 1891, nearly a month later,
the first passenger train of the Burlington & Missouri road,
arrived over their line at Deadwood. Subsequently the
Burlington & Missouri Company constructed a branch road
from Englewood, on the main line, to Spearfish, about
fourteen miles northwest from Deadwood, and perhaps no
more wonderful feat of engineering skill was ever accom-
plished. A trip over this marvelous piece of mountain
railway — up the dizzy heights to the extreme summit of
Bald Mountain, around through a labyrinth of lofty crags
in perfectly bewildering curves, and a plunge down into
and through the most beautiful canyon in the world (the
Spearfish), is a revelation of grandeur and beauty unsur-
passed, and the treat of a lifetime. The road winds its
sinuous way through some of the most enchanting scenery
to be found even in this land of scenic wonders, — some-
times doubling on its track, over a route nearly forty miles
in length to reach its terminus, only fourteen miles away,
by the traveled highway. As one looks down from the
summit of Bald Mountain on the mines far below, and the
numerous narrow-gauge railways winding around the bases
of the hills, it is difficult to conceive that but a few years
ago, the whole visible expanse was an unbroken solitude,
into whose wild depths it seems a mystery that man should
penetrate.
The inter-urban narrow-gauge short line connecting Dead-
wood and Lead, was built and equipped in the fall of 1890
at a cost of $300,000 and is believed to be the first piece
of strictly commercial railway constructed in the Black
Hills.
The promoter of the enterprise which brought the two
most important towns of the northern Hills into speedy
communication was a company composed of J. K. P. Miller
500 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Joseph Swift, W. H. Swift, Joseph Ogdeu, C. H. Graham,
and V. P. Sweetman. Deadwood, though the last of the
early towns of the Hills, except Spearfish, to be reached
by outside railway, is to-day the railroad center of the
Black Hills.
The public spirit of the municipality has kept swift pace
with its commercial growth and prosperity, as its well graded
streets, its complete system of sewerage, and excellent elec-
tric lighting system fully attest. Besides its five churches,
its central and ward school buildings, its two-story brick
Courthouse, and three-storied City Hull, it has the distinc-
tion of being the location of a two-storied U. S. Govern-
ment Assay building.
Moreover, the private enterprise of its citizens has kept
fully abreast of its public thrift. Two daily newspapers,
the Pioneer Times and Independent^ and one weekly pub-
lication, the Mining Review, represent the press. It is
interesting to note that the Deadsvood Daily Pioneer Times
enjoys the proud distinction of being a consolidation of the
first weekly and the first daily newspapers ever published
in the Black Hills, the Pioneer having been established as
a weekly on June 8th, 1876, and the Times as a daily on
May 7lh, 1877, the consolidation being effected on May
15th, 1897. The paper is now conducted under the judi-
cious and capable business management of W. H. Bonham,
and is edited by Porter Warner, who had been editor and
proprietor of the Daily Times from the date of its birth
to that of its dissolution as an independent publication.
The Indejyendent was established in 1889 by Freeman
Knowles, but the enterprise is now under the control of a
company, of which W. O. Temple, of Deadwood, is Presi-
dent; Judge Joseph B. Moore, Vice-president, and M. L.
Fox, Secretary. The paper is now under the editorial
management of M. L. Fox, with G. T. Jameson as Business
Manager.
The Mining Review , a paper devoted to statistics and other
information relating to the mines and mining industries of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAIIS. 501
the Hills, is published by A. W. Merrick, the first news-
paper man in the Black Hills. (See Chapter of First
Events.)
BANKING INSTITUTIONS.
Deadvvood now sustains two National banks — both
flourishing institutions, whose business reaches up into the
millions annually. The oldest of these is the First National
Bank, whose history dates from away back in 1878. This
bank, which is entitled to the distinction of being the first
legitimate banking institution established in the Black
Hills, received its charter, and opened its doors for busi-
ness, on the site which it nosv occupies, on the first day of
September, 1878, with L. R. Graves as its first President
and S. N. Wood, formerly of the private banking firm of
Stebbins, Wood & Post, as its first Cashier. In 1879 it
changed management. The building first occupied was
destroyed — all save the vault, by the fire of 1879, arid was
replaced by the two-story brick structure occupied by the
Firrit National Bank to-day. It now has a capital stock of
$100,000.00, a surplus of $1 50,000.00, and undivided profits
to the amount of $11,277.64 and is officered as follows:
O. J. Salisbury, President ; T. J. Grier, Vice-President,
and D. A. McPherson, Cashier. The ability of its man-
agement is evidenced in the large amount of surplus held,
exceeding by one-third its capital stock.
The American National Bank opened for business on
January 2, 1895. It has now a paid-up capital of $50,-
000.00, a surplus of $10,000.00, and resources, totaling
$689,382.40. Its present officers are: Harris Franklin,
President; John Treber, Vice-President; Ben Baer, Cash-
ier. Although a young institution, its property rests
upon a solid foundation, and the success it has recorded
thus far is a guarantee for the future under its conservative
supervision.
On February 14th, 1898, " The Deadwood Labor Union,"
was organized with the following officers, viz. : James
502 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Tuley, President; Thos. Brown, Vice-President; Thos.
Carroll, Financial Secretary; Andrew Oleson, Recording
Secretary; Frank Irons, Treasurer; and a membership of
forty.
The Deadwood Labor Union building, a commodious
two-story and basement structure, with stone foundation
and press-brick front, covering an area of eighty by thirty
feet, was completed in the early part of 1899, at a cost of
$7,000 to the Union which owns the property. The growth
of the organization has been phenomenal, having increased
within the limits of a year from forty to four hundred and
thirty-six members.
In a volume like this it is plainly impracticable to note
in detail the many and various kinds of business r — profes-
sional, mercantile, etc., with which Deadwood is supplied;
but well appointed and well patronized hotels indicate their
popularity, and the tasteful display of all kinds of goods in
the windows of dry goods, clothing, grocery, drug, fruit,
and other stores bespeak the prosperty of its merchants,
and the quality of trade along the different lines of trafhc.
The bar of Deadwood, numbering about eighty, is com-
posed of some of the ablest and shrewdest lawyers in the
Wide West, where legal acumen is the almost universal rule
and not the exception, among whom are such eminent jurists
as Hons. Granville G. Bennett and Gideon C. Moody, who
have both balanced to a nicety the scales of justice from
the Black Hills bench, or eloquently pleaded for even-
handed justice at the Black Hills bar, ever since the first
establishment of law in 1877, and who have been intimately
identified with its subsequent history.
Judge Bennett came to Deadwood from Yankton, under
appointment by President Hayes to establish regular
courts in the Black Hills, and assume jurisdiction thereof,
in April, 1877. He occupied the bench of the First Cir-
cuit of the Territorial District Court, of which the Black
Hills then formed a part, until September, 1878, when he
resigned to accept the nomination as representative of the
SOL. STAU,
Deadwood'js Popular Major,
LAST I1UXTINC4 GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 503
Black Hills to the United States Congress, to which posi-
tion he was elected. At the close of the session, Judofe
Bennett returned to Deadwood, where he has since devoted
himself to the practice of his profession, an honored mem-
ber of the Deadwood bar.
Judge G. C. Moody, then engaged in the practice of law
in Yankton, Dakota Territory, was appointed to the bench
made vacant by the resignation of Judge Bennett, by
President Hayes, in October, 1878, which he occupied for
his full term of four years. In 1885 he was chosen United
States Senator by the Legislature of the provisional State
Government of South Dakota, but, while himself and col-
league, Alonzo J. Edgerton, were accorded especial con-
sideration in Congress, they were not admitted to the full
privileges of members of that body. On October 17th,
1889, he and R. F. Pettigrew were chosen United States
Senators by the iirst State Legislature of South Dakota,
which convened at Pierre on the 15th of that month.
About 1883 or 1884, Judge Moody succeeded Judge A. D.
Thomas, as attorney for the great Homestake Mining Com-
pany, which important position he still holds.
Among other members of the present Deadwood bar,
who have practiced in the Black Hills courts since their
establishment in 1877, are Frank J. Washabaugh and Edwin
Van Cise, whose names have been familiar to the people of
the Black Hills ever since they became an entity.
Frank J. Washabangh has many times represented the
people of the Black Hills, both in the Territorial and State
Legislatures, and it will perhaps be conceded that no man
in the Hills to-day has been more intimately identilied with
every public movement for the advancement of the Black
Hills and the State. First, Mr. Washabaugh is, in a
double sense, a pioneer, having come, a young law graduate
from Lafayette College, Easton, Pennsylvania, to Yankton,
the then capital of Dakota, in the early territorial days,
where he was admitted to the bar and began the practice of
his profession. In 1876 he was allured to the Black Hills
504 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
by the reported gold discoveries, settling first in Pennington
County, where he engaged in placer mining on Spring
creek, meanwhile practicing his profession before miners'
meetings, the only recognized courts in those days and
from whose findings there was no appeal. Mr. Wash-
abaugh held the positions of First Prosecuting Attorney
for Pennington County and Clerk of the United States
and Territorial Courts.
He was elected as a member of the Territorial Council
and State Senate from the Black Hills for seven consecutive
terms, during which time he was largely instrumental in
securing the passage of several bills of importance to the
people of difterent localities in the Hills. He was the
author of the bill introduced and passed by the Territorial
Legislature, calling a constitutional convention for the
southern half of the Territory, and the memorial to Con-
gress for the admission of that portion of the Territory to
Statehood. Mr. Washabaugh is the present County Judge
of Lawrence County.
Edwin Van Cise came to the Black Hills from Mount
Pleasant, Iowa, Nvhere he had practiced law, reaching
Dead wood on May 11th, 1877. He was admitted to prac-
tice in the Black Hills courts, at the first term held by
Judge Bennett, in the temporary courthouse on Sherman
street, and at once opened an office for practice on that
street. In August he became engaged in a mining enter-
prise that took him to Pactola, Pennington County, where
in October of that year he was chosen County Attorney of
Pennington County. In January, 1878, he qualified and
opened an office in Rapid City where he remained until
March, 1879, then returned to Deadwood and formed a
partnership with John R. Wilson, under the firm name of
Van Cise & Wilson. This partnership continued until
1892, when it was dissolved, since which time Mr. Van
Cise has been in practice by himself — a conspicuous figure
in the bright galaxy composing the Deadwood bar.
Of the present medical fraternity .of Deadwood, the
FRANK J. WASHABAUGH, DPJADWOOD, S. D.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 505
longest established practitioner is Dr. L. F. Bal)C(ick, who
tirst opened his office for practice about August, 187(), since
which time he has been in continuous practice. Dr. Bab-
cock was selected as first coroner of Lawrence County in
the spring of 1877, and was subsequently elected to the
same position at various times. In 1879 he was made ex-
amining surgeon for pensions, in which capacity he served
for several years. It is now recalled that Dr. Babcock rode
away from Dead wood more than once during the years of
1876 and 1877 in the capacity of surgeon, with parlies in
the pursuit of Indians, to care for those who might be
perforated by Indian bullets.
The offices of several mining companies, which make
Deadwood their headquarters; the real estate and insur-
ance offices, etc., form no insignificant factors in the whole
business economy of the commercial metropolis of the
Hills. The municipality in 1897 had an assessed valuation
of $1,241,420.00 and contained a population of 6,290
souls.
In the whirl of business, and the almost universal devo-
tion to monetary pursuits, the citizens of Deadwood have
by no means lost sight of the amenities of life, as is demon-
strated by its numerous clubs of various kinds.
It has literary clubs for the women; commercial clubs,
athletic clubs, and gun clubs for the men ; and musical and
social clubs for both. Of the former there are at least
three, to wit : The Thursday, " Round Table " and Culture
clubs, composed of some of the city's most cultured and
advanced women, who, it is said, were among the first in
the Black Hills to catch the infection of the almost uni-
versal, shall I call it mania? — for club organization and
federation among women. These women's clubs and
associations are doing much in cultivating a taste for
what is best in our literature, among those who come
within the influence of the charmed circles, in lifting
the woman of this last decade of the nineteenth cen-
tury up to a higher intellectual plane, and, doubtless, the
506 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
world at large is happier and better for their efforts. But,
oh ! my dear club women, what would your grandmothers
and great-grandmothers have thought and said of this utter
disregard of their teachings and cherished traditions, of all
this " fuss " about " letters? " What, indeed ?
While there are many charming homes on Forest Hill
and Ingleside, Deadwood is not what can, by the most lib-
eral stretch of the imagination, be called a beautiful
city. Its irregular outlines, its angular streets, its narrow
valleys, traversed by the muddiest of muddy streams, and
its gold-reduction plants, place it outside the limits of the
beautiful and lovely. On the other hand, the terraced
slope of Forest Hill, which affords pleasant, though seem-
ingly precarious home-sites amid its native pines, far above
the busy haunts of traffic ; its romantic drives, leading out
in different directions into the Hills, and the lofty lookout
on its outer barriers, gives it an aspect that is delightfully
picturesque.
Deadwood has not yet wholly outgrown the cosmopolitan
characteristics of its youth, as a stroll along its business
thoroughfares on any pleasant day will make obvious to
the least critical observer. Included in its population is a
considerable element of Chinese, who are rapidly becoming
assimilated in dress, manners, etc., with American customs.
Besides their usual occupation as laundrymen and restaur-
ateurs, there are merchants and doctors who conform to
American fashions, speak the English tongue fluently, and
send their children to the public school. However, while
the men modify their style to conform with American fash-
ions— in all save their " cues," to which they religiously
cling, the women and girls tenaciously adhere to their
native costumes. Dignified, demure little almond-eyed,
olive-skinned maidens, in the very acme of Chinese fashions,
may be seen decorously making their way to school, in
striking contrast to their rosy-cheeked, buoyant, frolick-
ing *' Melican " sisters.
Across the valley, on a broad shelf about 800 feet above
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS.
507
Whitcvvood Creek, is " Mount Moriah " Cemetery, where,
mid rocks and rills and shaded dells, repose the city's dead ;
where lie buried not a few of the brave men who bore the
brunt of the hard battle for civilization against the murder-
ous foe; where also, mute witnesses of two of Dcadwood's
early tragedies, are the graves of " Wild Bill " and Henry
Weston Smith — first Black Hills missionary.
Back of the cemetery, like a faithful sentinel keeping
guard over the abodes of the dead, stands White Rocks,
from whose bald summit, 2,000 feet above the level of its
base, may be obtained a comprehensive view of the
environing camps, and the mysterious hills and vales for
miles around.
508 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTEK XXXIY.
HISTORY OF HOMESTAKE MINES.
Near the head of Gold Rua, a tributary of Whitewood
creek, about three miles, as the crow flies, southwest of
Deadwood, at an elevation of over 5,000 feet above the
ocean's plane, is situated Lead, the home of the most
extensive gold mining industry in the world. It had its
auspicious birth twenty-two years ago in the discovery of
gold-bearing quartz in the great "lead" from which it
derived its name, and though but one year past its legal
majority, it has already become the most populous city, —
not only of the Black Hills, but of South Dakota, west of
the Missouri river.
Early in the spring of 1876, soon after the discovery of
placer diggings on Gold Run Gulch, which did not uni-
formly pay, the attention of miners was turned to pros-
pecting for quartz, and a number of promising mines were
discovered. Among the tirst of these was the Homestake
mine, which was discovered and located by Fred and Moses
Manuel or Emanuel, Alex. Engh, and Henry Harney,
becoming, either by location or purchase, joint owners in
the property. A little later, the Highland was discovered
by M. Cavanaugli, and the Golden Star by Smoky Jones.
Soon after the location of the Homestake, the Emanuel
brothers located the "Old Abe" mine, which, according
to the statement of those familiar with the early history of
the mines, was previously discovered by J. B. Pearson,
making it probably the first quartz mine discovered in that
locality.
During the summer of 1876 the original owners of the
Homestake mine prosecuted a vigorous development of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 509
their property, which improved in strength and value with
every square foot of development work done, and to still
farther test the value of their mine, the Emanuel brothers
erected an arastra a short distance below, near Penninfi^ton.
and put the crude pulverizer in operation on the ore, which
proved to their complete satisfaction that they were the
possessors of property of immense value. In the fall of
1876 Engh and Harney sold 100 linear feet of their divided
interest in the mine to H. B. Young for $300.00, after
which each continued active development work on their
respective holdings until the fall of 1877.
During the spring and summer of 1877 two custom mills
were put in operation on the ores of the quartz mines in
the vicinity with highly satisfactory results. The first was
a ten-stamp mill, later increased to twenty stamps, built
by the Racine Mining and Milling Company on a site near
where the Deadwood Central Depot now stands. The
Racine Mill, which was built for the aforesaid company by
Geo. Beemer, commenced droi)ping its twenty stamps on
April 15th, 1877.
The second, called the Enos Mill, after its owner, was
built by Mr. Enos in July, 1877. Mr. Enos had acquired
Harney's interest of 325 feet of the Homestake mine, the
ore from which, in part, supplied his mill. Subsequently,
when the Homestake company absorbed the most valuable
and productive mines in the vicinity, both of these mills
were torn down and the machinery sold and removed to
other regions of the Hills.
Meanwhile glowing reports had reached and attracted the
attention of prominent California capitalists, among whom
were J. B. Haggan and Geo. Hearst, who with the object
of investigating the matter, decided to dispatch an expert
to the Black Hills for that purpose. Accordingly about
June, 1877, L. D. Kellogg, a practical miner, was sent to
examine the gold-bearing region in the vicinity of Lead,
clothed with discretionary power to negotiate for the
purchase of such property as proved satisfactory to him.
510 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
After a careful examination of the mines he was so well
satisfied with tlie result of his investigation that he secured
a short option on the portion of the H.omestake owned by
the Emanuel brothers and Engh, and, it is alleged, the
Deadwood Mine, for $50,000 and $80,000 respectively, and
immediately returned to San Francisco to report to his
employers. On the following day he started on his return
to the Hills accompanied by Mr. Hearst, who at once pur-
chased the property for the aforesaid sums according to the
terms of the option.
Su})sequently, Mr. Young sold his 100 feet to the com-
pany for $10,000, and Mr. Enos, who had purchased Mr.
Harney's interest, sold to a Davenport, Iowa, mining and
milling company, which, in turn, sold to the Homestake
Company for $45,000, making the price paid for the
Homestake Mine No. 1, $105,000.
Mr. Hearst returned to San Francisco well pleased with
his venture, and in connection with J. B. Haggan and
Lloyd Tevis, without unnecessary delay purchased an
eighty-stamp mill, hoisting machinery, etc., and shipped
the same by rail to Sidney, Neb. The contract for freight-
ing the mill and machinery from Sidney to Lead City was
awarded to the firm of Cuthbertson & Young, at the rate of
six cents per pound, which amounted to a total of $33,000.
The greater part of the machinery was landed safely on
the ground by the first of January, 1878. A portion,
however, Avhich was freighted in by ox train, was caught
in the great snowstorm of March, 1878, near Crook City,
where every poor bovine perished, and did not reach its
destination until well on toward the first of April. The
mill was built, the machinery placed and the eighty stamps
were put in operation about the first of July, 1878, and
that was the beginning of the great Homestake consolidated
company's operations.
The Homestake Company was soon after organized, with
a nominal capital of $2,500,000, when other valuable
mines were added to the original purchase made by Mr.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 511
Hearst. The Golden Star, the Highhmd, and Old Abe
mines were successively acquired by the company, the
tirst named in December, 1877, the second in Mayor June,
1878, and the Old Abe during the latter part of the same
year. Early in 1880, the Dead wood Terra Company was
absorbed, and the De Smet Company later. From time to
time since, additional mineral lands have been purchased,
until to-day the major part of the gold-bearing area in the
vicinity of Lead is owned and controlled by the Homestake
Company.
The chief element of success in all gold-reduction opera-
tions is a bountiful supply of water, without which the rich-
est mines in the world are practically worthless. Recog-
nizing this fact, the company and its stockholders directly
or indirectly shrewdly secured, at an early date, every
available miner's inch of that essential fluid, capable of
being utilized in its operations or in supplying the outside
demand. From the headwaters of nearly all the principal
streams in the region round about, their waters were con-
ducted through many miles of ditch and flume at enormous
expense, to vast receptacles, convenient to the points where
the water was designed to be utilized, — receptacles from
which the principal towns in the vicinity have, for nearly
two decades, received their main water supply.
Availing itself to the fullest extent of its privileges under
the raining laws, the company selected a large area of fine
timber land lying to the southward of Lead City, and, for
the purpose of transporting the vast amount of timber re-
quired for the mines and fuel for the mills, constructed a
narrow-gauge railway across the deep ravines, over the
streams and u[) the deep slopes, a distance of perhaps four-
teen miles, to a point where a station was established called
Woodville. As the land was stripped of its timber, the
line and army of woodchoppers pushed farther and farther
into the heavily timbered territory, leaving behind a forest
of unsightly stumps. Subsequently the line was extended
from Brownsville — the last wood station — to Piedmont,
512 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
to connect with the F. E. & M. V. R. R. and called the-
Fort Pierre & B. H. Railway. This lino, constructed by
the Homestake Company, was the first piece of steam rail-
way built in the Black Hills.
Since the building of the Homestake eighty-stamp mill
in 1878, the operations of the company have increased to
vast proportions. The acquisition of new mines was
speedily followed by the construction of extensive mills,
whose original capacities have been from time to time in-
creased until to-day the Homestake Consolidated Company
own seven enormous plants of the following respective
capacities, to wit: —
At Lead the Homestake, or old eighty-stamp mill, 200 ;
Golden Star, 140, and Highland, 200 stamps; at Terraville,
the Deadwood Terra, two mills of eighty stamps each, 160 ;
the Caledonia, eighty stamps ; at Central, the DeSmet, 120
stamps, making a total of 900 stamps, which produce an
annual output of over $4,000,000 of gold bullion for the
company, or, at a conservative estimate, $75,000,000 since
operations began in 1878.
The product of the Homestake mines, so far, has been
from what is regarded in the Black Hills as low grade ore,
averaging from four to six dollars per ton of gold, which
demonstrates that a mine does not necessarily have to be
hish srade to be an enormous producer of net values. It
is not, therefore, because of the richness, but because of
the vastness of the ore body, and the gigantic scale upon
which it is operated, and upon the systematic, economic
and strictly business principles upon which these operations
are conducted, that the Homestake mines have been the
largest and most continuous dividend-payers in the world.
Notwithstanding the fact that for the first ten or twelve
years of their operations, not an ounce of the concentrates
contained in the ore was saved, not a single non-payment of
dividend by the company has been recorded from the first.
Strangely enough, no attempt was made to recover the
gold in the concentrates until about 1890, bv reason of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 513
which, it is reasonable to conclude, that not less thun a half
million of dollars of gold was carried down with the current
to the Gulf, or caught on the bars along the way.
Although a liberal scale of wages has been adopted by
the company, every department of the vast industry is con-
ducted on such a plan of economics as will insure the
most profitable results. While the whole complicated
machinery is under the supervision of a general superin-
tendent, each branch of the business, the offices, mills,
mines, stores, and shops, is under the immediate charge
of an expert in his line, to whom a princely salary is paid,
who looks after all the minute details of the branch under
his supervision. Every cog and every wheel in the vast
human machinery of the great industry, is thus compelled
to perform its assigned function with the punctuality and
regularity of clock work.
Of the various branches of the Homestake industry not
the least important and responsible is that of timbering
the mines. It requires the skill and genius of a master
mechanic, to so adjust the timbers as to preclude the
"awful" possibility of their giving way and letting the
whole superincumbent mass of rock down upon the army
of miners working beneath.
When you are told that 2,000,000 running feet of timber
are used annually in timbering the Homestake mines, you
may, perhaps, feel inclined to doubt the accuracy of the
statement. If so, make your last will and testiment ; bid
a solemn good-bye to your friends, then take a seat in the
" cage " and descend down, down 700 feet into the black-
ness of the mysterious under- world, where the light of day
never reaches; visit the long tunnels which penetrate far
into the mountain in every direction on the different levels,
and see the great high cavities built up and supported by a
forest of heavy solid timbers, skillfully braced, and you
will be convinced. It will be interesting, too, to watch
for a while the hundreds of grimy miners, who, faintly
discernible by the glimmering lights in the dark tunnels,
33
514 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
are busy with pick and shovel, and drill and hammer,
blasting and breaking the ore into pieces and loading it on
the train of small cars to be transported to the mills out-
side. By this time you are, doubtless, satisfied and glad to
ascend into the glorious sunshine of the upper world.
The mills of the combined company have an aggregate
milling capacity of from 2,500 to 3,000 tons of ore per
day. The ore is submitted to daily tests by assay, so that
the management knows to a nicety the average daily pro-
duction per ton. The mills for the greater part are con-
nected with the niines by narrow-gauge railways which
carry the ore in small cars, of the capacity of about one
ton each, to the upper story of the mill, where it is dumped
into the crushers, which, in turn, discharge the crushed ore
through chutes into the ore bins, from which it is fed into
the batteries.
To carry on the various branches of the vast enterprise
requires that a large force of men be kept on the company's
pay-rolls. Besides the men in the mills and mines, a local
engineer is employed, whose duty it is to make all the
plans and surveys for the mines, an expert assayer, to
keep the management informed as to the value of the ores
milled, and numerous clerks, carpenters, machinists, black-
smiths, etc.
There are now about 1,500 men employed by the Home-
stake Consolidated Company, who receive wages ranging
from $3,50 to $2.50 per day.
The wages paid underground employees are $3.50 for
miners, $3.00 for mine laborers, and $2.50 for surfiice
laborers. Exceptionally skilled miners who supervise the
work are paid much more, and perhaps poor workmen re-
ceive less. However, it is believed that the management
regards a poor workman dear at any price and prefers pay-
ing good WMges to skilled men in any capacity. A good,
faithful employee can hold his position all the year round,
and, what is better still, the company never misses a pay-
day,— never.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
515
Improved facilities in the way of machinery are added by
the management as the business of the comi)any demands.
The most notable, as well as noticeable, improvements of
recent date are the magnificent steel building and steam
hoisting works, erected over what is known as the Ellison
516 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
shaft, on the south side of Gold Run gulch, opposite the
mills; and the hue steel viaduct, 900 feet in length, con-
nectino; the works with the mills on the north side. A
three-compartment shaft was sunk to the depth of 400 feet,
and the 200, 300, and 400-feet levels of the mine connected
therewith. The gold-laden ore is lifted by a powerful pair
of hoisting engines from the unseen depths below, then
loaded onto small cars and carried across the viaduct to the
mills.
During the year ending June 1st, 1897, 100 stamps were
added to the old Homestake mill, and a powerful twin
compound condensing engine to run the enlarged establish-
ment.
According to the statement of Financial Secretary F. G.
Drum, in his annual report to the President of the Home-
stake Company, the net proceeds for the year ending June
1st, 1897, from ore milled at the mills at Lead were; Bars,
878 to 940 inclusive, $1,843,501; net proceeds concen-
trates, $45,938.16, amounting to a total of $1,889,439.41.
The amount of ore milled was 395,530 tons, yielding at
the rate of $4.77 in gold per ton, and a small percentage
of silver.
The Homestake and associate properties are sending out
into the commercial world $4,000,000 annually, and accord-
ing to a conservative estimate by Superintendent Grier,
there is ore enough in sight, even with the increased facili-
ties, to keep the mills running for twenty years to come.
Since the mines began producing in 1878, the company has
paid to its stockholders in monthly dividends the handsome
sum of $12,000,000 approximately.
DURANGO LODE.
Outside of the Homestake mining properties in the vicin-
ity of Lead, there is at least one individual holding, from
which its fortunate owners are realizing vast wealth. This
is what is known as the Durango Lode, which has some-
thing of a history. The mine was discovered in 1877, and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAHS. 517
patented by the Durango Gold Mining Company, which,
after working out a few pockets of rich free gold ore,
practically abandoned the property as worthless. It was
finally sold for taxes to James Cnsick, Tim Foley, and
John L. Sullivan. The Durango Company brought suit
to set aside the tax deed, resulting in a compromise by
which the owners paid $1,000 for the company's title.
The mine is an immense siliceous ore deposit, running from
$75 to $100 in gold per ton. The property is being worked,
and regular shipments of the refractory stuff are made to
Kansas City for treatment.
LEAD CITY.
The history of Lead City dates back to the early spring
of 1876, when placer operations began on Gold Run Gulch,
and is co-extensive with the great mining industry of the
Homestake Company, growing with its growth and strength-
ening with its strength. The first discovery of placer gold
in that gulch was made by Thomas E. Carey, who came
over the divide from Deadwood gulch in February, 1876,
and found the first shining particles in the creek just below
the large settling dam of the Homestake Company. Mr.
Carey also built the first structure on the gulch, a small
log cabin which stood — a venerable landmark of the early
days — for twenty-two years, when it was torn down to
make room for a more modern and pretentious edifice.
Shortly after the discovery of gold in the gulch, a pros-
pector, who passed current among the miners by the
suggestive sobriquet of "Smoky Jones" — *' Smoky "
presumably was not his baptismal name — made a prelimi-
nary, or pocket compass survey, and with the aid of
others, laid out a town-site along the gulch, and named it
Washington, in honor of the little boy who could not tell
a lie. ( ?)
The first grocery store erected on the site was built,
tradition says, by Antoine Weber, who a few years later
carried on business at Rochford in the central Hills, where
518 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
the writer knew him well. Among the very first to open
business in this birth-place of Lead City was P. A. Gus-
hurst, now the efficient mayor of the flourishing munici-
pality, ami one of its most influential and enterprising
citizens. The town grew but slowly at first, only a few
scattered log cabins, occupied by the miners and prospect-
ors of the vicinity, being built during the first year of its
existence.
In the spring of 1877, however, when the first attempts
at gold quartz reduction were made, the town received a
new impetus and began gradually to expand. A new sur-
vey was made by a local surveyor, J. D. Mclntyre, by
which the lines of the old site were extended farther up
toward the head of Gold Run, when the business for the
most part left the narrow confines of the gulch below, to
build along the bases of the adjacent hills above, and the
homes soon began to climb the dizzy heights. Higher and
higher up the steep slopes they climbed, year by year,
until to-day the environing hills are densely covered from
base to summit with the homes of thousands of thrifty,
prosperous people — homes, in good part, of the hardy,
muscular men, who are daily and nightly busy with pick,
shovel, and hammer, in the miles of slopes and tunnels of
the different levels, reaching down 700 feet beneath the
surface. The name given the new town was Lead City,
so called because of the great leads traversing the
surrounding hills.
The first frame building in Lead City was erected on the
corner of Main and Mill streets, by Geo. Beeraer, in the
spring of 1877. The building was afterwards owned and
occupied by John Daly as a blacksmith shop, and was, a
few years since, and perhaps is still standing. The second
frame structure was a building known as the Jentes' Corner,
where, tradition says, the first dance in Lead City was had
on the nisrht of Julv 4th, 1877. At this initial dcince there
were seven women in attendance, who constituted the total
adult female population of Lead City at that date.
LAST IIUNTIXG GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 519
The tiist brick structure in Lead City, knowu as the
•' Brick Store," was built by the Ilomestakc Co. in 1880.
This was followed successively by E. May's store, Dr.
Lowie's drug store and the Masonic and Odd Fellows' Hall,
constructed at the corner of Main and Bleeker streets.
This substantial brick structure is still used for the lodge
meetings of the two orders.
The first school opened in Lead City was a tuition school
taught by a Miss Graham, in a small log cabin located on
North Bleeker street, in the fall of 1877.
From early Black Hills chronicles, which are verified by
living witnesses, the following items have been gathered : —
The first hotel in Lead City was the Miners' Hotel, a
frame building erected by Jas. Long, in June, 1877.
The first exclusive grocery store was opened by Mealy &
Smith in 1877: the first dry goods by Silver Bros.; the
first meat market by Thos. Jones ; first express and delivery
by Wesley Akxander ; first millinery by Mrs. John Bragg ;
first clothing store by P. Cohen ; first furniture and under-
taking by S. R. Smith. The first woman was Mrs. Carter,
the first child Josie Carter ; first baby born, Pearly McCoy ;
first newspaper, Lead City Telegraph.
The first justice of the peace was Henry Hill, who was
elected in June, 1878, and the first case tried by him was a
criminal one, June 25th. The first bank was established in
1878, in charge of Hy. John Ainley.
The first church erected in Lead City was built by the
Catholic society during the spring of 1878, with Rev.
Father Mackin as its first pastor. This church was fol-
lowed successively by the Congregational society organized
August 27th, 1878, and the Methodist society organized on
the 15th of November, 1880, by Rev. W. D. Phifer. The
latter first held services in the old opera house, afterwards
ia the old school building and later in the first Miners'
Union Hall. In 1881 the society began the erection of a
church building, which, when nearing completion, was
blown down by a violent storm. A new building was soon
520 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
constructed out of the ruins, which, on the 11th of August,
1881, was dedicated by Bishop Foss.
The Episcopal and Presbyterian societies were next
organized, both of which have rapidly increased in mem-
bership. The former, it is alleged, has now the hirgest
church edifice in the Black Hills.
Lead City's first opera house was built by John Brooke
on Main between Mill and Bleeker streets, in 1878, and the
Langrishe Comedy Company gave the first theatrical per-
formance in Lead City in this " house" during the same
year. The lower floor of the building was and is still used
as a saloon, but the old hall on the second floor, where
once rang the plaudits of the appreciative crowds, is now
utilized for lodging rooms.
In the spring of 1877, soon after quartz mining opera-
tions began, the miners of the camp combined for mutual
protection and for the purpose of securing for the men
engaged in the hazardous occupation of mining for wages,
a just compensation for their labors, and the right to use
the fruits of their toil, without let or hindrance, or dicta-
tion from their employers, and to otherwise protect their
mutual interests a union of miners was organized with Pat
O'Grady as its first president.
In 1878 the brotherhood erected their first Miners'
Union Hall, which served its purpose for fifteen years, or
until the organization grew beyond its capacity. The first
floor of the old hall, which still stands on the northwest
corner of Main and Bleeker streets, is now occupied by
two stores, while the second floor is the present head-
quarters of the Salvation Army.
In 1894 the new Miners' Union building or block, sit-
uated at the corner of Main and Walnut streets, was erected
at a cost of $68,000.00 and is owned by the Lead City
Miners' Union. It is a fine three-story building con-
structed of variegated sandstone, cut from the quarries of
the hills adjacent to the city. On the second floor of this
immense structure is the present Lead City Opera House,
LAST HI NTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAIIS. 521
which is the Inrgest in the State, having a seating capacity
of 1,500. The third floor is separated into two commo-
dious rooms, one for the Miners' Union Meeting, the other
for the use of the Ancient Order of United Workmen and
Knights of Pythias orders, while the lower Hoor is let
for business purposes. The " Union " has a present
membership of 750.
The first fire company of Lead City was organized in
1878. Hose Company No. 1 was formed in 1879, and No.
2 was added in 1888. The department was organized in
1889 with David Morgan as Chief.
The present department is composed of Lead City Hose
Company No. 1, Lead City Hose Company No. 2, and the
Albert Hose Company, which organization for efficiency is
second to none in the Black Hills.
In 1878 the Lead City water system was established by
the Black Hills Canal and Water Supply Company under
contract with the town corporation, the exact terms of
which agreement were not obtainable. The water supply
is drawn from the headwaters of Whitetail, Little Rapid,
and Castle creeks, and carried, at a tremendous cost,
through many miles of underground, ditch and pipe to vast
reservoirs, constructed on the hills north and south of the
city, and thence distributed by pipes to its consumers.
While the volume of water is sufficient to supply the
demands of the people, and for amalgamating use at the
mills, there appears to be no supply for sewerage purposes,
except an occasional " flush," as it is called.
In June, 1878, the first district school meeting in Lead
was held and the following officers elected, viz. : Henry
Hill, clerk ; Thos. Pryor, treasurer ; F. Abt, director. The
first public school was taught during the summer of 1878,
in a room over Belliveau's store, by Prof. Dean, with an
attendance of thirty-two pupils, — sixteen girls and sixteen
boys. The September term of 1878 was taught by Piof.
Wheeler, assisted by Julia B. Snyder, in a house on Pine
street, opposite the old hose house. The school of 1879
b22 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
and 1880 was conducted by Prof. Darling, assisted by Miss
L. Chapman, in a house located on Bleeker street, where
J. R. Searles' residence formerly stood.
The schools were held in rented buildings until 1881,
when the Sister's Hospital, located on the ground occupied
by the Lead school building of to-day, was purchased by
the school board, and transformed into a suitably arranged
schoolhouse, which served the purpose until the completion
of the new building in 189G.
The teachers in the first public school building were: J.
S. Thompson, principal, and E. J. Bishop, Miss Anna
Graham, and Miss Burnham, assistants. In 1882 Mr.
Thompson was re-elected principal and Ed. Darling and
Misses Kogers and Barry, assistants. In 1883 E. J. Bishop
was elected principal, but shortly after resigned, on account
of sickness, when Miss Rogers was appointed to fill the
vacancy, with Miss Kate Burry and Pauline Pincus as
assistants.
From 1884 to 1891 the schools wore successively con-
ducted by R. H. Driscoll for 1884-5; C. J. Green for
1886-7 ; L. A. Fell for 1887-8, and Prof. Frazee from 1888
to 1896. From 1891 to 1896 the schools were under the
supervision of Prof. Kimmel, who was succeeded by the
present incumbent. Prof. C. M. Pinkerton.
Since the opening of the first public school in 1878 the
number of pupils has increased from thirty-two to an en-
rollment of 1,103, for the term beginning September, 1898,
and from one teacher to a corps of twenty-three instructors
including superintendent.
In 1896 the present elegant two-storied brick school
structure which is conceded to be the finest and best
equipped building of the kind in the Black Hills, was
erected on the site of the old building on west side of south
Wall street, at a cost of $31,000.00 for which bonds of the
district were issued by the Board of Education. The old
structure which yet stands in the rear is still used in con-
nection with the new building. Besides the Central build-
!l
*5 "^f
''^^^\*:.:r>hlA^
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 523
iu2 there is what is called the " Washinorton School
House," in the Fourth Ward.
In 1890, after an eventful career of nearly fourteen
years as a private corporation, Lead City came to the con-
clusion that it was high time to assume the dignity of a
municipality, even if it did impose some new responsibil-
ities. In justice to herself, as the greatest gold reduction
camp in the world, she felt — and justly so — that she was
entitled to recoo-nition as something more than a mere town
on the map of the Black Hills. So, in the year aforesaid
Lead City, by general consent, was incorporated under the
general laws of the State of South Dakota, and became a
city de facto as well as in name. At this time the append-
age "City " was dropped, and the new organization called
simply Lead. The city was divided into four wards, each
to be represented by two members in the City Council.
The personnel of the first City Council was as follows: —
Cyrus H. Enos, Mayor; Charles Barclay, Ernest May,
P. A. Gushurst, Daniel J. O'Donnell, John K. Searle,
Frank Abt, Jr., Thomas Connors, Michael Cain, Aldermen.
Lead has eight religious organizations, viz. : Catholic,
Congregational, Methodist, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Lu-
theran, Bai)tist, and Seventh Da}^ Adventists.
In the line of secret societies, it is believed that Lead
breaks the record in the Black Hills, and if there are any
who doubt the statement, a glance over the following roster
will convince the most incredulous. I shall merely give
the initials and leave it to the reader to decipher the puzzle:
A. F. and A. M. ; R. A. M. ; O. E. S. ; I. O. O. F. ; K.
of P. ; R. S. ; A. O. U. W. ; D. of H. ; M. W. A. ; R. N.
of A. ; S. of St. G. ; G. A. R. ; W. R. C. ; H. F. ; W. of
W.; I. O. R. M.; O. S. C.
Since its first formation in 1877, the Miners' Union of
Lead has grown into a formidable combination of members,
yet it is gratifying to note that we never hear of *' strikes "
and "lockouts" or any kind of friction between em-
ployers or employees in Lead.
524 THE BLACK HILLS; OH,
EMERGENCY HOSPITAL.
Doubtless the finest and best equipped institution of its
kind in the Bhick Hills, and in fact west of Omaha, is
Emergency Hospital at Lead. Emergency Hospital, which
was built and equipped by the Homestake Company, was
designed, as its name implies, as an asylum where skillful
medical and surgical treatment and careful nursing could
be speedily administered to the sick and injured employees
of the company. The hospital is provided with complete
clinical appurtenances, and a number of experienced nurses
to look after the needs of patients under the directions and
advice of the hospital physician. However, any person
seeking admission for treatment is taken in upon the pay-
ment of fixed rates.
To provide funds for the maintenance of the institution
an assessment of $1.25 per month is levied on the wages of
each employee of the company, which entitles him to the
full privileges and benefits of the hospital without addi-
tional cost.
HEARST FREE LIliRARY.
Another institution, worthy of especial note, is the
Hearst Free Library. This institution, which is highly
appreciated by its people, was established in Lead in 1894,
by Mrs. P. A. Hearst, widow of the late United States
Senator Geo. Hearst of California, for the especial, though
not exclusive, benefit of the employees of the Homestake
Company, of which Mr. Hearst was one of the organizers.
The library was first installed in the new Miners' Union
Opera House, where it was kept until the completion of
the present two-story brick and stone library building,
adjoining the company's brick store on the north in 1896.
The upper floor of this building is elegantly fitted up
with handsomely ornamented iron and easy chairs, piano,
tables, etc., — in fact, nothing has been omitted by the
generous founder, to make the room an attractive resort
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS.
525
where the company's employees and others can spend their
leisure hours in pleasant companionship with entertaining
authors. One side of the long room is lined with glass
covered cases, containing 4,000 volumes of standard litera-
ture—comprising history, biography, science, art, poetry
and fiction; besides which a large number of our best
periodicals are regularly found upon the tables. An aver-
age of about 175 books are daily drawn from the library,
and an equal number of persons daily visit the room, — and
indeed it is a pleasant room to visit.
One of the conditions imposed by Mrs. Hearst, is the
holding of monthly musicals for the entertainment of the
employees, to whom tickets, limited in number to the
capacity of the room, are alternately issued, thus insuring
to all equal opportunities. These delightful functions are
conducted under the directions of the librarian, who must
needs be, not only a connoisseur in music, but himself
gifted in the glorious art of song.
NEWSPAPERS.
Two enterprising daily newspapers, but, by the way, of
radically different political creeds, the Tribune and the Call,
at present reproduce the important daily happenings in
and around the metropolis of the " belt." The oldest of
these, the Lead Daihj Tribune, is something of a veteran,
having been first established by Messrs. Edwards and
Pinneo, away back in 1881. It is now under the manage-
ment of Henry Schraitz, and is a staunch Republican sheet
in politics. The Lead Daily Evening Callsvas established
by John W. Jones, in August, 1893, and is now owned and
edited by A. C. Potter, who conducts the publication
politically, in the interest of the fusion party.
The first National Bank of Lead was first established
as a State bank, under the laws of South Dakota, in 1890,
In 1891 it was converted into a National Bank, numbering
4,r>31 on the oflicial roster at Washington. The bank has
a capital stock of $50,000 ; surplus and profits, $18,679.30;
526 THE BLACK HILLS: OR,
circulation, $11,250; deposits, $430,(344.95, wiih total
liabilities and resources of $510,574.25, and is officered as
follows: —
T. J. Grier, President; Ernest May, Vice-President ; R.
H. Driscoll, Cashier; J. E. Corcoran, Assistant Cashier ;
Directors, W. E. Smead, P. A. Gushurst, Dr. J. W. Free-
man, Ernest May, T. J. Grier. The names of these gen-
tlemen are held in the highest honor in financial circles,
and the fact that they are representative business and pro-
fessional men, well acquainted with banking methods, is a
guaranty of the success of the comparatively young institu-
tion.
Besides the buildings already referred to. Lead has a
large number of handsome business blocks; every kind of
business common to cities of its class, as well as the dif-
ferent professions, are well represented, in short, public
thrift and private enterprise appears to have kept even
pace with the growth of its great mining industry.
Notwithstandinir the fact that for a time the growth and
general development of Lead was greatly retarded by the
doubt cast upon the validity of the corporation's title to
the ground upon which it stands, it has increased, until to-
day it ranks second in wealth and tirst in population in the
Black Hills, having an actual valuation of $787,262, and a
population numbering 8,000 or more people.
Ethnologically Lead, like all great raining centers, is
composite, nearly every nationality under the sun being
represented in its population. There are English, Swedes,
Norwegians, Finlanders, Italians, Slavonians, French,
Germans, Irish, Scotch, and perhaps a sprinkling of other
nationalities — Irish-Americans predominating. Of the
voting population 300 are English ; 300 Swedes, Norwe-
gians, and Finlanders; 150 Slavonians, and perhaps 150
other naturalized citizens, making a total of 900 voters of
foreign birth, or on that basis, over one-half of its entire
population. Perhaps no town in the State has so large a
proportion of foreign born residents, the majority of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
527
whom, however, are pretty well Amercunized both in
habits and sentiment, and the rising generation are Yankee
to the core.
Many of the foreigners are born musicians, for which
reason Lead is a pre-eminently musical city. Cornish,
Swedish, and German choral and glee clubs, and brass
bands are numerous. The Cornishmen are especially
accomplished musicians, have superb voices, and know how
to use them, and much the same may be said of the
German, Swedish, and Italian element.
Moreover these muscular men are extremely fond of all
kinds of athletic sports, foot ball, base ball, horse-racing
and wrestling — Cornish wrestling being an especially
favorite pastime. In short the employees of the Home-
stake Mining Company are a thrifty, prosperous class.
They for the greater part own their own homes, receive
o:ood wao;es, live lavishlv, and altoo-ether make the most
of life.
528 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
CHAPTBK XXXy.
CENTRAL CITY.
Situated about two miles southwest of Deadwood, near
the geographical center of a cluster of some half dozen
small mining camps, which form an almost continuous
town, is Central City, the once booming mining center of
upper Deadwood gulch. The town comprises Gayville,
the oldest of the group, where, it is alleged, the first cabin
in the gulch was built by Alfred Gay in the fall of 1875.
South Bend, Central, Anchor Cit\s Golden Gate, and Black-
tail, each of which were more or less potent factors in the
economy of the whole.
In the vicinity of Central is located the DeSmet 120-
stamp mill belonging to the Homestake Company; and the
famous DeSmet mine, from which, tradition says, the
Indians procured the handfuls of glittering metal, shown
the reverend missionary, in whose honor it was named.
The first cabins erected in Central are said to have been
built by Wm. Lardner and E. McKay in December, 1875.
The earliest quartz mines discovered near Central were the
Giant and Erin, one located in November, and the other in
December, 1875 ; the discoverers being John B. Pearson
and Frank Bryant. The history of the first placer dis-
coveries in the gulch has been already recorded.
It appears that a large mining community had settled on
the site before a name was selected for the town. At a
public meeting held on January 20th, 1877, the town
asserting its individuality was formally christened Central
City, I. V. Skidmore, of Central City, Colorado, standing,
sponsor. At this meeting Wm. Lardner presided as chair-
man, A. H. Loudon acted as secretary, and Geo. Williams
was chosen city recorder.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
529
The first newspaper established in Central was the
Herald, a daily paper pul)lished by J. S. Bartholomew
from 1877 to 1881. About the same time the Chamjnon,
CENTRAL CITY IN 1878.
a weekly paper, was established by Chas. Collins, and pub-
lished until 1878. The Enterprise, also a daily paper, was
published by T. J. Webster from 1881 to 1882.
34
530 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHURCHES.
The first religious services held in Central were con-
ducted by Judge David B. Ogden,of Anchor City, in 1877,
the meetings being first held at Golden Gate. In 1878 the
Reverend Judge, assisted by other gentlemen of the camp,
conducted a religious revival in a school building which
stood on the lot afterwards occupied by the American
Hotel. Soon after the sale of the schoolhouse compelled
them to find another place, when the meetings were held in
the Opera House. In November, 1878, Rev. Jas. Williams,
of the Northwest Iowa Conference, was sent to the Black
Hills, at which time the first quarterly meeting of the
Methodist Church was held. In 1879 a Congregational
society was organized and soon after a church structure
was built by Rev. B. F. Mills. A Catholic society with a
large following was organized, and a buildinsr erected at an
early date.
Central has been credited with being the first town in
the Hills to establish a school under the public school sys-
tem of Dakota Territory, having opened a term in the
early fall of 1877, with Dolph Edwards as teacher. It is
claimed by some, however, that the opening of the school
at Crook City antedated it by about two weeks. Be that
as it may, there can be no doubt that Central was in the
van in the establishment of public schools in the Black
Hills.
In passing through the cluster of hamlets on upper
Deadwood gulch, some of which are now nearly deserted,
one can hardly realize that once the region thereabouts
was thickly dotted with stamp mills in active operation,
but such is the fact, as the following partial list of mills
that were kept in more or less continuous operation during
the years 1877-8 proves: —
The Black Hills Gold Mining Company, twenty stamps;
Alpha Mining Company, ten stamps ; Pearson Mill, twenty
stamps; Sheldon Edwards Mill, twenty stamps; McLaugh-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 531
lin & Cassel's Custom Mill; Thompson's Custom Mill,
twenty stumps; Brown & Thum's Mill; Central Gold
Mining and Milling Company's Custom Mill ; Lancaster
Mill, twenty-five stamps; Wolzmuth & Goewey's Mill,
fifteen stamps ; Franklin Mill at Golden Gate ; Badger
Mill: Ledwich Brothers' Mill ; Union Mill Company ; A. P.
Moon & Company's Mill, Lower Central ; Girdler & Orr's
Mill.
In this cradle of gold quartz reduction in the Black Hills
there is now — barring the DeSmet mill — but one twenty-
stamp custom mill, called the " Deadbroke," in operation.
The powerful Homestake Company, with its 900 ponder-
ous stamps which are causing the whole free gold region
thereabouts to throb from center to circumference, leaves
but small chance for small operations. It is believed,
however, that the old-time activity will soon return to
Central and her sister hamlets, as, at this writing, it is
currently reported that raarveloasly rich discoveries have
been made in their vicinity.
Central, though it has declined somewhat in material
importance, is still exceedingly rich in unwritten tragic his-
tory. It was not only the scene of the first gold reduction
operations in the Black Hills, but was also the scene of
numerous dark tragedies, a few of which yet stand out in
bold relief against the background of memory.
During the early years, when excitement ran high,
"claim-jumping" was a common occurrence, in conse-
quence of which frequent disputes arose, in the settlement
of which a number of valuable lives were blotted out.
One case is now recalled, which has in it a world of pathos,
where two men fought to the death over the possession of
a mill-site near Central. It was on October 6th, 1877, that
the double tragedy occurred, in which John Bryant and a man
named Adams lost their lives. It appears that Bryant had
sold the ground in dispute to a Mr. Bogle for a mill-site,
after which it was taken possession of by the other claimant.
Mr. Bryant feeling in honor bound to protect the pur-
532 THK BLACK HILLS ; OK,
chaser in his rights, ordered off the intruder, who,
instead of complying, leveled his gun and fired at
Bryant, shooting him through the body. Notwithstanding
he had received his death wound, Bryant approached,
emptying the magazine of his gun, meanwhile, at his
adversary, who fell dead, when Bryant, too, fell dead
across his body.
Who of the early residents of the upper camps will not
remember the tragedy of Hidden Treasure gulch? In this
gulch, which makes out from Deadwood gulch in the vicin-
ity of Central, there is, or rather was, a sort of conglom-
erate cement deposit, rich in free gold, which early
attracted the attention of prospectors and investors. On
this blanket deposit, which, though rich, was not very
extensive in superficial area, several claims had been located
and relocated in such a way that the lines of the respective
claims crossed each other at various angles, forming all
kinds of geometric figures, and thereby hangs the tale.
Among the first to secure property on this historic gulch
was Capt. C. V. Gardner, who, it may be remembered,
finally vindicated his right to the famous Hidden Treasure
mine by due process of law. Subsequently, in 1876, Mr.
Henry Keets, member of a company formed in Cheyenne,
Wyoming, located the Comstock, which was afterwards
known as the Keets mine.
In the spring or early summer of 1877, Cephas Tuttle
located the Aurora mine, so that its lines overlapped the
ground previously located by Mr. Keets, resulting in a
conflict of interests and the consequent bitterness which
led up to the tragedy of Hidden Treasure gulch. It is not
the province of the writer to discuss the merits or demerits
of that unhappy contest, but simply to record the facts, as
far as known, relating thereto, which are in substance as
follows : —
It was one day in August, 1877, that Mr. Tuttle, who,
in company with C. H. Deitrich and Senator Thos. C.
Piatt of New York, was interested in the Aurora mine, per-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 533
fected his plan and carried out his fell purpose, according
to his own declaration, of exploding the whole conglom-
erate proposition with dynamite.
When seen laboriously pushing a wheelbarrow loaded
with boxes of powder towards the air shaft on his mine,
Mr. Keets inquired, " What under the sun are you intend-
ing to do with all that powder? " " I am going to blow
the entire works to — to the realms of Pluto," promptly
replied Tuttle. He was as good as his word — he did.
It appears that the two mines, each of which had a shaft,
were connected by a long tunnel, which at the time was in
the possession of the Keets employees. When reminded
that there was a large number of men in the tunnel, some
of whom might get killed, in case he carried out his threat,
he said: " Get your men out of the mine, for I shall cer-
tainly blow it up. I am a Napoleon and was never yet
outgeneraled." This he said, and more, in the way of em-
bellishment. Finding that he was determined to execute
his threat Mr. Keets hastened into the tunnel and told the
men to get out quickly as Mr. Tuttle was about to explode
the mine. All of the men except one named Norris, who
regarded the threat as a mere bravado, left the tunnel and
repaired to the Keets' cabin, or a blacksmith shop on the
ground.
Tuttle tied a rope around the boxes of powder, lowered
them into the shaft; lighted the fuse attached to the
boxes, and was about to lower it into the shaft, when a
well-directed shot from some quarter extinguished it.
"Good shot!" exclaimed Tuttle admiringly. Nothing
daunted, he at once relighted the fuse, let it down into the
shaft and left the spot, shortly after which the explosion
occurred. Then followed an interchange of shots between
the Keets men in the cabin, and the Aurora men from be-
hind a barricade, slight wounds being inflicted on several
of the men. In the midst of the general confusion an un-
erring bullet found its way to the heart of Mr. Tuttle,
killing him, it is believed, instantly. The man Norris, who
534 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
remained in the tunnel, was knocked into insensibility by
the concussion, and was ever afterwards deaf.
A posse of armed men was stationed around the cabin
in which the Keets men had taken refuge, to keep guard
until the arrival of the sheriff, who placed several of the
Keets men under arrest, took them in custody to Dead-
wood, where they were arraigned in Justice Baker's court
for preliminary trial, on the charge of murder. A pro-
longed examination of witnesses, pro and con, failed to
fix the crime, and they were released. The names of the
prisoners were Geo. H. FuUerton, J. S. Hubbell, Joe
Maxwell, C. L. Torbet, J. S. Goddard, E. C. Smith, and
H. F. Paslin.
Hidden Treasure gulch was the scene of an amusing
comedy as well as a tragedy during the same year. By
some injudicious management on the part of the superin-
tendent of the Keets' works there was a default in the pay-
ment of the wages of the employees, who, to secure
themselves, took formal possession of the property. It
was in November, 1877, that the Keets employees set up
housekeeping in the tunnel of the Keets mine. They re-
moved their cabin belongings, supplies, beds and l)edding,
cooking utensils, etc., into the tunnel, set up the cook
stove near the air .'•haft, which was utilized for a flue, and
made all needful preparations for an indefinite stay. No
persuasion hy mere promises to pay could lure them from
their chosen vantage ground.
The owners of the mine then called into requisition the
services of Sheriff Bullock, who, upon reaching the ground
armed with due process of law, peered down through the
smoke of the air shaft and in .stentorian tones read to
them the " riot act ; " but for once the potential influence
of that etficient officer of the law failed, as threats availed
nothing.
As a last resort the aid of the military arm of the gov-
ernment was invoked, and Lieut. Edgerly, in response
to a requisition from Sheriff Bullock, rode to the scene of
SETH BULLOCK,
First Sheriff of Lawrence County,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH.S. 535
trouble witli a detachment of United States cavalry from
Camp Sturgis. The lieutenant, upon his arrival, com-
municated formal notice to the occupants of the tunnel
that unless they surrendered the fort unconditionally
within a specified time he would bombard the works.
*' Bombard away," replied the plucky miners, " we will
die in the last ditch before we surrender." Uncle Sam's
troopers had no terrors for the men comfortably domiciled
in the tunnel. All efforts to dislodge them proved ineffec-
tual until someone hit upon the happy expedient of throw-
ing burning sulphur into the tunnel, which brought them
to a speedy capitulation. To the fumes of fire and brim-
stone they were finally forced to succumb.
TERRAVILLE.
In a small gulch, between Centr.il City and Lead, at an
elevation of about 200 feet above the former place, is
Terraville, the location of the Deadwood, Terra, and Cale-
donia mills, to whose o[)erations it owes its present exist-
ence. The camp had its origin in 1877, in the discovery
of the several mines comprising the properties of the two
companies respectively, the earliest of which were the Cal-
edonia and the Deadwood and Terra mines. The Dead-
wood Terra Company has two mills of eighty stamps each,
and the Caledonia one mill of eighty stamps, making a
total of 220 stamps, which are kept in constant operation,
employing an aggregate of 150 men.
These two companies, which are now included in the
Homestake combination, own the mnjor part of the min-
eral-bearing territory in the vicinity of Terraville. Among
the mines belonging to the Caledonia group on Bobtail
gulch are the Caledonia, Grand Prize, Clara Nos. 1 and 2,
Queen of the Hills, Cornucopia, Monroe, besides placer
ground on the gulch.
In these mines, as in the Homestake properties at Lead,
there is a large amount of pay ore in sight, which is mined
at a great saving of expense, pillars of the ore being skill-
536
THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
fully left to support the roof, thereby saving the expendi-
ture of thousands of dollars annually for timber and labor.
In all other particulars the same methods are employed as
in the mills and mines at Lead. Although Terraville has a
present population of 600, very little traffic is carried on
owing to its close proximity to Lead, the trade center for
that region.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 537
CROOK CITY.
Crook City, one of the oldest towns in the northern Hills,
is situated on Whitewood creek, about seven miles by the
traveled highway northeast of Deadwood, at the foot of the
hills where the creek debouches into the open country.
It was originally called " Camp Crook " in honor of Gen.
Crook, who encamped on the ground with several troops of
cavalry in 1875, and again in 1876, on his return from his
memorable summer campaign against the hostile Sioux.
Early in 1876 a large population gathered at that point for
the purpose of catching the float gold, with which White-
wood creek was believed to be teeming, as it was washed
down with the tide. It grew so rapidly in population and
importance during the year, that, in the spring of 1877,
upon the formation of Lawrence County, it was considered
a worthy rival of Deadwood in the race for capital honors.
As a matter of fact, the first meeting of the county com-
missioners was held at Crook, but for some reason best
known to that board, the meeting adjourned to Deadwood,
which later secured the plum, despite the liberal bonus
offered by the people of Crook in landed property.
The town was laid out in the spring of 1876, when it
received its formal christening, each of the original settlers
beinsf given the privilege of drawiuo; a town lot. At that
time town lots in Crook City were in active demand, selling
readily at $500.00 each. Among the first settlers were
Wm. Cable, L. W. Valentine, Henry Ash, Joseph Sparks,
A. H. Burke, H. M. Vroman, Wm. Wigginton, E. R.
Collins, W. D. Wakeman, Major James Whitewood,' Ben-
jamin Hazen, Sam. Jackson, John Gallinger, Wm. Wade,
Geo. Mattox, Ed. W^olf, Ed. Donahue, Thomas Moore,
Thomas Shannon, and many others, the majority of whom
were soon drawn away to Deadwood. The two last named
fought a duel in 1876, in which T. Shannon fell (see Chap-
ter of First Events). Aunt Sally, who claimed the dis-
tinction of being " de fustest culled lady in de Brack
Hills," was also one of the early settlers of Crook City.
538
THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
Among the first to establish business in the town, were :
Joseph Sparks, hotel; Henry Ash, grocery; Wm. Wig-
ginton, meat shop; Mike McMahon, restaurant ; Clark &
Wilson, bakery; Homer Levings, general merchandise;
A. Jackson, saloon.
CROOK CITY IN 1876.
The first school in Crook City was taught by Mrs. J. S»
Bennett, in June, 1877. It is claimed that District No. 1
of Lawrence County was organized there at that time with
H. M. Vroman, treasurer, W. D. Wakeman, director, and
W. M. Anderson, clerk. That being the case it was the
first school district organized in the Black Hills. The school
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 539
was first taught in a rented log cabin, but soon after a
comfortable scliool building was erected.
The Crook City Tribune, the second newspaper in the
Black Hills, was established at Crook City on June 10th,
1876, just two days after the first issue of the Black Hills
weekly Pioneer. The paper was published by H. S.
Burke.
A regular post-office was established at Crook City in
1877, with William Logan as first postmaster. Prior to
that time the people of the town received their mail through
the same uncertain and dangerous channels as did other
early settlements of the Hills.
Situated as it was, on the outer environment of the Hills,
Crook City was particularly exposed to Indian depredations
in 1876, and a number of persons were killed in its vicinity
during that year, among whom were three members of a
family named Wagnus, who were encamped near the town,
an intrepid mail carrier named Herbert, and several other
parties. Stealing and running off horses and cattle from
the vicinity was an almost daily occurrence, and the settlers
were consequently kept in a constant state of alarm. It
was while on his way to Crook City to fulfill an engage-
ment to hold religious services that Kev. Smith was killed
by the Indians in 1876, the particulars of which are related
in Chapter of First Events.
In the early eighties the town-site, comprising about 400
acres, was pre-empted by L. W. Valentine and J. L. Den-
man, who deeded lots to occupants at a mere nominal figure.
Although liberal inducements were offered, all attempts to
secure for Crook Cit}'' a railway station have so far failed,
and while a small settlement of ranchmen is still there,
as a town it is but little more than a memory. A rich agri-
cultural and grazing region surrounds the old town-site,
including Whitewood, Spring, and False Bottom valleys,
and the eastern portion of Centennial Prairie, and it has
doubtless proved more valuable as a ranch than it ever did
as a town.
540 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXXYI.
SPEAKFISH.
Situated in the valley of Spearlish creek, about seven
miles above its confluence with the Redwater, and fourteen
miles northwest of Deadwood by wagon road, and thirty-
one miles by the winding railway, may be found Spear-
fish, the Queen City of the Black Hills, and a delightfully
attractive picture indeed it presents to the visitor. Its
broad, clean, well-shaded streets; its cosy, tree-embowered
homes — bespeaking the prosperity and thrift of their
owners — and the broad, green valley in which it stands,
form a maojnificent settino; to the rugged grandeur of the
surrounding hills and mountains which shield the confiding
city from every stormy wind that blows.
The mountains rear their protecting battlements on every
side. Crow Butte with its flanking cohorts, on the south,
Spearfish Peak on the east, and on the west Crow Peak
towers up about 6,000 feet above the tide, and 2,500 feet
above the town, while, near its limits on the east, rises up
the encroaching barrier of Lookout Mountain, from whose
lofty summit the early settlers of the valley were wont to
eagerly scan the different approaches thereto, in the days
of the country's peril.
In the beauty and harmony of its scenic environments,
Spearfish stands unexcelled by any other town in the Hills,
Custer alone excelling it in grandeur. The quiet peace-
ful village, Spearfish creek, clear as crystal, fringed with
a thrifty growth of forest trees, traversing the wide ver-
dant valley, and the embracing mountains combined, form
a landscape that would delight the artistic eye of a painter.
The peculiar features of the valley of the Redwater are
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 541
also conspicuous around Spearfisli, the white of the gypsum
and the verniillion of the Ked Beds contrasting with
pleasing effect.
The varied attractions of the valley of Spearfish and the
wide "Centennial Prairie" on the east, did not long
remain unnoticed b}' those seeking homes in the Bhick
Hills. Professor Jenny who encamped on the valleys,
during his exploration of the Hills in 1875, spoke in glow-
ing language of its beauty and fertility which first brought
it into notice. It was not albeit until about the time that
the valley began to grow green in the spring of 1876, soon
after the Sioux in fresh paint and plumage had started out
on the trail of the pale-faces, that attention was first
attracted to that region with a view to settlement.
It is claimed by some that Jas. Butcher, who later settled
on Centennial Prairie, was the first actual settler on the
northern frontier, having located and built a cabin, prior
to the location of the town-site, on ground afterwards occu-
pied by J. C. Ryan's store, which was soon abandoned,
owing to the appearance of Indians. The next to arrive,
according to pretty well authenticated statements, was a
company formed in Deadwood in the early part of May,
1876, for the purpose of locating lands in the valley of
Spearfish creek — which, too, by reason of the hostility of
the Indians, was compelled to beat a hasty retreat, without
fully accomplishing its object. It appears, however, that
Otto Uhlig, the prime mover in the scheme, soon after
returned and joined the Montana colony, which arrived in
the valley on the 20th of May, 1876, and located a home-
stead adjoining the original town-site on the east, — a part
of which is now Uhlig's Addition to Spearfish.
Colorado Jack had, prior to this, according to tradition,
verified by living witnesses, pre-empted the town-site, but
was soon driven off by the Indians, abandoning his claim.
On the 22d of May, 1876, it was relocated by Thomas
Jefferson, who subsequently relinquished his right to the
Town-site Company. About the same time, perhaps a
542 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
little before, John Johnston, leader of the "Centennial"
party from Ames, Iowa, arrived in the valley, where he
has since, for the most time, remained.
On the 26th of May the Montana colony began to locate
ranches down the valley, beginning at the ranch now owned
by R. H. Evans, which he drew at that time. Joseph
Ramsdell, at the same time, located the ground which is
now in part Ramsdell's Addition to Spearfish,
It appears that there were two adverse claimants to the
town-site, designated as the Gay and Smith parties respec-
tively, each claiming priority of location, but, after a heated
discussion, a compromise was effected, by which the two
parties were to unite in forming a large town-site company.
Accordingly on the 29th of May, 1876, Spearfish was laid
out on the banks of the beautiful stream from which it
derived its name. The site was surveyed and platted by
H. S. Burke, — who established the first newspaper at Crook
City, and was afterwards Justice of the Peace at Dead-
wood — with the aid of the traditional pocket compass.
The original stockholders of the Town-site Company were :
Alfred Gay, A. J. Arnold, J. E. Smith, T. K. Bradley, J.
F. Bradley, Wm. Gay, W. L. Kuykendall, E. B. Farnum,
H. B. Young, Thos. Jefferson, R. H. Evans, J. H. Bigler,
C. L. Craig, J. Fitzsimmons, J. McHenrj^ J. R. Frost,
H. S. Burke, D. G. Tallent, A. F. Wood, T. G. Murphy,
J. J. Crawford, E. F. Slater, C. F. Thomas, C. C. Spades,
J. J. Bump, J. Lahara, M. Gearney, Wm. Plaudney, S. S.
Peters, P. O. Mill, M. B. Goodsell, and R. Holt, thirty-
two in all. J. E. Smith was chosen president of the
company.
The organization was effected under the provisions of a
law of the United States authorizing the location of town-
sites on government unsurve^'ed lands which provided that
all unclaimed lots after a specified period should revert to
and become the property of the school district. A prelim-
inary surve}' of the original plat, which contained 640
acres located on government unsurveyed lands was made
LAST 11U^TING GKOUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 543
by members of the Town-site Company in 187G. In 1877
the 640-acre tract was resurveyed and platted hy E. E.
Fine, for which service the company paid him $350 in
good, hiwful money. The streets were hiid out and num-
bered from one to twenty-seven north and south, and from
A to S east and west, and as there was ample room for
expansion in the tract they hiid out veritable boulevards,
with alleys twenty feet in width.
In 1878 the government survey by Scott was made, by
which the town-site tract was found to be parts of sections
10 and 15, township 6, range 2 east of Black Hills merid-
ian. It then developed that the population of the town
did not entitle it to more than 320 acres, consequently that
area was surveyed and platted, and on January 27th, 1879,
was recorded in the United States Land Office at Dead-
wood. Since then several additions have been made largely
increasing its original area. Subsequently the company
became involved in prolonged and expensive litigation with
those to whom lots had been sold and squatters who settled
on the site prior to its cession by the government; conse-
quently, becoming weary of the struggle, the company
finally abandoned the scheme.
The first structure erected on the plat was a log cabin,
built by the Town-site Company, the logs for which were cut
by Jas. Bradley and Thos. Jefferson. The second house
was built by James and Kellar Bradley, at the southeast
corner of 7th and H streets, on the ground afterwards
owned by Robinson & Ripley.
J. E. Smith, Jas. Ryan, Henry Folsom, and Geo. Reed
broke the first ground in Spearfish valley in June, 1876,
and J. E. Smith sowed the first acre of oats on the ranch
now owned by M. G. Tonn. While, despite Indians,
numerous small improvements were made on the ranches
along the valley, the town grew but slowly during the first
year of its history.
Early in September, 1876, it having become imperative
that a haven of refuge be provided for the settlers, in the
544 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
event of an attack by the Indians, who were at the time
boldly raiding the surrounding country, even to the
limits of the town, a stockade was built. The plan of the
structure, though something unique in the annals of defen-
sive works, was yet quite creditable to its designers. Four
SPKARFISH IN 1876, WITH LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN IN THE BACKGROUND.
separate cabins, occupying the four respective corners of
the area, laid out for the inclosure, were provided with
embrasures on all sides, thus commanding the situation
from every point of the compass. On the northeast
corner, afterwards occupied by Court & Bulf's building,
stood John Ward's cabin; on the southeast corner, on the
ground now occupied by Gammon's livery stable, stood
P. C. Riley's cabin; the two 100 feet apart. On the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 545
northwest corner, now occupied by Nutt's store, stood John
Spaulding's cabin, and Henry Folsom's cabin occupied the
southwest corner of the inclosure. All munitions of war,
provisions, etc., were stored in these four log cabins, where;
the few settlers took up quarters and successfully defended
themselves during the winter of 1876-7, and where, it may
be imagined, they reposed upon no downy pillows.
All through the year of 1876 and up to July, 1877, the
settlers in the valley held their possessions by a very haz-
ardous and uncertain tenure indeed. They were perpetu-
ally harassed by the aggressions of the Indians who were
especially active along the northern border, around the
exposed settlements of Spearfish, Centennial, and Crook
City. Often during that terrible period did they clitnb the
slope of Lookout Mountain and stand upon its commanding
summit to scan the wide scope of valley and prairie
to the north and east, anxiously watching for the ubiqui-
tous redskins, who came and went like a flash — and there
was no telling whence nor where. Large bands were liable
on any day or at any hour to swoop down upon a herd of
horses or cattle or sheep and with wild unearthly yells and
whoops and frantic gesticulations stampede the whole
herd away out of sight, before their keepers could hardly
realize what had been done. Not that the herders were
lacking either in vigilance or bravery — quite the reverse.
What availed two or three men, pitted against a band of
fifty or more well-mounted and well-armed Indians?
Strange as it may seem, there were hundreds of horses
and cattle feeding on the rich grazing lands lying north of
the Hills even as early as 1876. It is related that at one
time a large band of red marauders drove away from the
vicinity of Crook City 400 head of cattle belonging to
Capt. Dodson and slaughtered the entire herd except one
lame ox, converted the same into jerked beef and made
their escape from their pursuers. A party from Crook City
accompanied by the Montana hay-makers followed in pur-
suit but they were too late.
35
546 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
That the Indians did aot confine themselves strictly to
horse and cattle stealing, but, when opportunity offered,
dabbled in other kinds of stock, will be shown by the fol-
lowing. In the fall of 1876 a man named Ames, who had
located a sheep ranch on the Redwater, near the mouth of
False Bottom, brought in from Wyoming a flock of sheep
to be disposed of to meat dealers during the winter and but
for the interposition of a force of United States troops he
would have been robbed of his entire flock.
Lieut. Cummings, it may be remembered, was sent
with a force of cavalry to guard the northern frontier
against the incursions of the Indians in the fall of 1876.
On one occasion the lieutenant and his command, accom-
panied by a number of settlers, among whom were Mike
Burton and Joe Cook of " Montana Herd " fame, went out
north of the Belle Fourche river on a scouting expedition
after Indians. On their return trip, when at the point
where the town of Belle Fourche now stands, they were
met by Mr. Ames' flock of sheep, behind which were a
small band of Indians, urging them forward with all pos-
sible speed. The ofiicer in command ordered a charge on
the Indians, who, taken by surprise, fled precipitately to a
high bank overlooking the river, pursued by the soldiers.
Finding themselves surrounded they urged their ponies
down the steep bank into the stream, reached the opposite
side and took shelter in the timber. The sheep were
recovered and returned by the soldiers to their owner, Mr.
Ames.
That night they went into camp at the Boughton and
Giles stockade, where on the following morning a mes-
senger arrived, from " Skew " Johnston's ranch asking
immediate assistance. A large band of Indians had dashed
down upon their herd of cattle, and driven them off in
a northwest direction towards the Little Missouri river.
" Boots and Saddles" was ordered and the soldiers and
citizens were soon mounted and on their trail, which was
followed as far as the Belle Fourche river. They found
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH8. 547
stragglers from the herd along the trail, exhausted hy the
loDg rapid drive, and as they neared the Belle Fourche
river the lowing of the cattle could he heard in the dis-
tance, evidencing that the Indians, with their booty, were
not far in advance. Believing that the Indians were in
overpowering numbers and fearful of being drawn into
ambush, Lieut. Cummings, deeming '♦ discretion the bet-
ter part of valor." ordered the return of his command
to Centennial Prairie. The Indians drove the entire herd,
except the few stragglers, to their rendezvous northwest of
the Hills.
These are but a few of the many losses suffered by the
early settlers along the northern frontier, but sufficient to
illustrate some of the difficulties with which they were
constantly beset during the period of its early settlement.
Would it could be recorded here that large herds of horses
and cattle and sheep had been sufficient to satisfy the
rapacity of those graceless savages ! But no, whenever
opportunity offered they, too, stained the green of the
beautiful valley with the blood of the settlers. Every
day and every hour deadly peril menaced them, and any
man who ventured far beyond the protecting walls of his
log cabin, virtually courted death, as he was liable to be-
come the target for the skillful marksmanship of a band of
concealed Indians. Especially was this the case after the
return of the Sioux from the battle of the Little Horn in
the late summer and early fall of 1876, during which time
a number were killed.
One of these was a young man, who hailed from Louis-
ville, Kentucky, Jimmy Irion by name and a printer by
trade. "Jimmy," as he was familiarly called, was em-
ployed as a " lookout" by a party of hay-makers in the
valley of False Bottom creek, and one bright, fatal morn-
ing in early September, he mounted his horse, placed his
gun across the pommel of his saddle, as was his wont, and
rode away from camp to his doom. Poor fellow, when
climbing the hill to his accustomed point of observation, he
548 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
fell, pierced and shattered by a volley of Indian bullets.
His mutilated body was found soon after, and later taken
to Deadwood for interment. Upon examination it was dis-
covered that one of the balls had struck a cartridge in his
belt, which he wore over his left shoulder across under his
left arm, and exploded it, the concussion shattering his body
frightfully.
A somewhat peculiar case now recalled, was the killing
of a man named Hay ward, a few miles north of Spearfish,
in the summer or fall of 1876. Hayward, who was the
owner of a team and wagon, was engaged by a party of
some half dozen Deadwood coal prospectors to take them
to the newly-discovered Hay creek coal-beds, about forty
miles northerly from Deadwood. It was a dangerous trip,
and one that few cared to take in those days. Hayward,
a tenderfoot of the tenderest type, was just from the East,
and had a morbid fear of being killed by Indians thjit
was pitiable in the extreme. Indeed he had a premonition
which presaged his certain death at their hands, and he was
not to be shaken in that belief.
However, by dint of much persuasion, and the promise
of large emoluments, he was finally induced to undertake
the journey which, although there were plenty of Indians
flitting about all over that region of the country, was ac-
complished without encountering a single redskin. After
spending a few days in exploring the coal deposit without
molestation, the men started on their way homeward, and
when about half the distance to Spearfish had been covered,
a band of mounted Indians was discovered in the distance,
following swiftly on their trail. The horses were urged
forward at their utmost speed, and the Indians gave chase.
After running two or three miles or such a matter, finding
that their pursuers were gaining rapidly upon them, the
panting, foaming team was swiftly switched in behind a
low embankment, where they prepared to defend them-
selves as best they could. For hours they stood off that band
of bloodthirsty savages, who largely outnumbered them,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 549
leveling and tiring their guns over the embankment when-
ever an Indian came within range; they in turn firing back
as often as the top of a head appeared above the natural
parapet. Hay ward, who meanwhile was in a mad frenzy
of excitement, persisted, in spite of repeated warnings, in
standing up every few minutes in full view of the Indians,
as if inviting his fate, to see if they were still there. Poor
fellow ! he exposed himself as a target once too often, for
at last, as night was approaching, the fatal ball went true
to its mark, and he fell dead, as he predicted he would.
Shortly after the Indians withdrew, when the body was
placed in the wagon and convej^ed to Spearfish, where it
was laid to rest in a spot set apart for the burial of Indian
victims.
On the 23d of July, 1877, David Abernethy and Deputy-
Sheriff Wilson left Spearfish in pursuit of two men who
had run off with a wagon belonging to the former. On
reaching Montana Lake, two miles east of Beulah, close on
the trail of the thieves, they halted for a brief rest, when
suddenly a band of Indians rushed out from ambush and
killed them both, then took horses, saddles, and guns, rifled
their pockets, and rode away with their booty. Informa-
tion of the murder reached Spearfish, when a party of
armed men went out to the lake, found the bodies and
brought them to Spearfish for burial.
During the same month and year a party went out from
Spearfish to the rescue of a party of immigrants who were
surrounded and held by the Indians on the Redwater.
They brought them safely in, also the bodies of four men
who had been killed and scalped not far from town.
The last hostile appearance of the Sioux in the vicinity
of Spearfish was in July, 1877, when what was known as
the " Pettigrew " party was beleagured for three days on
Sand creek, while en route overland for the Pacific Coast.
This party, which was partly recruited at Spearfish, was
composed of about fifty men, women, and children, includ-
ing the family of the leader, Charles W. Pettigrew. On
550 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
reachiDg Sand creek they went into camp on a little emi-
nence near where the Beulah bridge now stands, and while
waiting there to secure additional recruits at that small set-
tlement two members of the part}' were run in by a small
force of Indians, who fired a volley after them into camp,
at long range, causing no small panic among the women
and children. To defend the camp against an expected-
attack, they at once corralled their wagons, placed the
women and children inside the barricade, dug rifle pits
outside for the men, and, thus entrenched, awaited events.
The next morning a large force of Indians, numbering
from sixty to seventy braves, in- detached squads, sur-
rounded the camp on all sides, and opened a brisk fire
at long range, on the defenses, the men in the pits return-
ing the tire whenever an Indian came within range of their
guns. This intermittent interchange of bullets continued
for three days, during which time two futile attempts were
made to stampede the stock of the besieged party.
Meanwhile, information of their perilous situation had
reached Spearfish and Dead wood, when a body of armed
men from each of these places mounted their horses and
rode swiftly to their relief. Near the close of the third
day they arrived at the seat of hostilities, when, it is need-
less to state, the braves suddenly disappeared and were
seen no more.
Among this party was Mr. Detfebaugh, of Spearfish,
who two years later was killed by Indians at Devil's Tower.
Unanimously deciding not to continue their journey farther
towards the setting sun, the party returned with its res-
cuers to Spearfish, where the leader, Mr. Pettigrew, settled
with his family and has since made his home.
The first public enterprise planned I)y the Town-site Com-
pany was a scheme to bring travel from Bismarck to the
Hills via Spearfish. In furtherance of the project, Jas.
Bradley, who was regarded as something of a " Kit Car-
son" by the early settlers, was selected to conduct a party
of exploration to the north and east, for the purpose of
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAIIS. 551
laying out a feasible route from Spearfish, to intersect the
old road from Bismarck to the Hills laid out in 1875.
Accordingly, on July 2, 1877, Jas. Bradley, W. W.
Bradley, Gus. M. Wood, Jas. H. Madding, and a teamster
named Paste, started from Spearfish in a northwest direc-
tion across the Belle Fourche three or four miles below the
mouth of the Redwater. After traveling about 200 miles
over an almost impenetrable country, frequently changing
their course, and enduring a good deal of hardship, they
at last came upon the old Bismarck wagon trial. On their
return an estimate based upon their report was made, when
it was decided that the cost of constructing the road would
be too great, and the enterprise was abandoned. Strangely
enough, though marauding bands of Indians were still
roaming over the country, not a single redskin was encoun-
tered during the tri[».
With the quieting of the Sioux title, and the subsequent
cessation of Indian hostilities along the northern border in
the summer of 1877, and the consequent influx of immi-
gration and freedom to develop unmolested the resources
of the fertile valley, and to utilize the vast areas of rich
grazing land lying adjacent to and extending far to the
north and west, began the growth and prosperity of Spear-
fish. These with its advantages of location on one of the
never-failing streams of the Hills, affording unsurpassed
water-power facilities, made its permanence an assured
fact. Fully alive to these advantages and confident of its
future success, business at that time began to expand.
The first store is said to have been opened by John Arring-
ton andH. M. Jorgans in 1877, in a building afterwards oc-
cupied by M. V. Walk as a blacksmith shop. In this same
building was kept the first post-office of Spearfish, estab-
lished in 1877, with H. M. Jorgans as first postmaster, and
Jas. Rogers as first United States mail carrier.
The second merchant was J. C. Ryan, who, in the fall
of 1877, erected a one-story frame building twenty by forty
feet, and opened a stock of general merchandise. In 1883
552
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Mr. Ryan erected a two-story frame building twenty-six by
fifty feet with fire-proof cellar underneath. The second
SPEARFISH TOWN IN 1877.
floor of this building was designed and occupied as a
Masonic Hall.
The first regular hostelry in Spearfish, called the Spear-
fish Hotel, was built by P. C. Riley, Jas. Ryan, and Tony
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAHS. 553
Gei-ig, in the fall of 1877, on the ground now occupied by
the Speartish House. After a few months, Kiley bought
the interests of his copartners and conducted the business
alone during the winter, when he in turn sokl the establish-
ment and its patronage to Jas. Rogers. Prior to the build-
ing of this hotel, however, a sort of a lunch-room was
kept for a short time in a log cabin by the same gentlemen,
one of whom superintended the culinary department, and
did the cooking.
The first sawmill was built and operated by M. B. Good-
sell, in the spring of 1877, on the site now occupied by the
iSpearfish Milling Company.
The first blacksmith shop was opened by Kellar Bradley
in 1877 on the site now occupied by Tom Mathews, and the
first livery stable was established by P, C. Riley during the
same year.
The first to establish the practice of law in Spearfish
was W. W. Bradley, early in 1877, and moreover Mr.
Bradley is also entitled to the distinction of having per-
formed the first marriage ceremony — if ceremony it can
be called — in June, 1877. This first marriage was solem-
nized under somewhat peculiar circumstances. When John
Henry Skinner and Jessie Edwins decided to be " spliced "
and made one, they were confronted by a grave difiiculty.
There was no one in Spearfish at that date, endowed with
legal authority to perform the sacred ceremony, so, in their
dilemma, they appealed to Attorney Bradley, then the only
lawyer in the town, to help them out of the difiiculty. He
advised that he could tie the " nuptial knot," so that it
would hold through sunshine and shadow, through evil as
well as good report. He argued with himself that mar-
riage was a civil contract, and, in that belief , he proceeded
to draw up a contract for their signatures. Appended is
the contract verbatim et literatim: —
This agreement, made and entered into this first day of
June, 1878, by and between John Henry Skinner, party
of the first part, and Jessie Edwins of Spearfish, Lawrence
554 THE BLACK HFLLS ; OR,
County, South Dakota, party of the second part, wit-
nesseth: That whereas the said first and second parties have
by these presents, agreed and contracted in good faith and
virtue to become man and wife, and that there being no
ofiicer of the law or minister of the gospel to perform the
ceremony of marriage, therefore we, the said parties above
mentioned, in presence of two witnesses, do hereby bind
ourselves in all law of any State or Territory, both moral
and equitable, to be henceforth husband and wife, in the
true legal and equitable and moral sense of the terra.
The said first party agreeing to do and perform all acts
towards said second party that are required bv law, and
that I, the said John Henry Skinner, do by these presents,
agree to take the said Jessie Edwins as my true and lawful
wife, her to love, defend and care for, in sickness or in
health, and forsaking all others until death do us part.
And the said Jessie Edwins, party of the second part, agrees
to take the said Henry Skinner as her true and lawful hus-
band, him to love, cherish and defend, in sickness and in
health, forsaking all others as long as we both do live.
Witness our hands and seal, this the day and year above
mentioned.
John Henry Skinner.
Jessie Edwins.
Witnesses:
James Fortune,
Flora Osborne,
R. H. Evans.
What fee he received for the important document tradi-
tion sa3'eth not.
The first school in Spearfish was a private school opened
in the fall of 1877, and taught by Miss Pettigrew — now
Mrs. R. H. Evans — in a private house owned by John
Ingersoll.
The first religious services are said to have been held by
Rev. George Reed — Methodist — in 1878, though no
church building was erected until years later.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THC DAKOTAIIS. 555
During the same year a Congregational society was or-
ganized, and in 1879 a frame church building was erected
and used jointly for church and academic school purposes
until 1882, when the society began the erection of a hand-
some Gothic church edifice north of the city on ground
donated by Joseph Riimsdell. The building was completed
in 1883 at a cost of about $4,000. Much of the credit for
its accomplishment is said to be due to the efforts of M. F.
Connors, who contributed liberally to the building fund.
The first flouring mill was built by C. V. Gardner and
Porter Warner — then proprietor of the Deadwood Daily
Times — in 1879. The mill, which employed the grinding
process, was propelled by water-power furnished by Spear-
fish creek, and operated exclusively on home-grown wheat.
In 1883 a new mill, upon the roller plan, with a capacity
of 100 barrels per day, was erected by the Spearfish Mill-
ing Company, composed of Spearfish and Crook City capi-
talists. The motor power for these enlarged operations
was furnished by an immense flume bringing water from the
creek to the mill, with a fall of seventeen feet.
The first drug store was opened in June, 1878, by Dr. J.
M. Louthan and George Stotts, in a building located on
the corner of Sixth and I streets. Dr. Louthan was also
the first to start the practice of medicine; in fact, he was
the only physician in Spearfish for a number of years.
It appears from data obtained that the Spearfish Valley
Gazette — edited by John M. Elliott — was the first news-
paper published in Spearfish, the first sheet appearing on
May 7lh, 1881, and John Cashner is entitled to the distinc-
tion of having taken the first paper from the press.
The Dakota Weekly Register, an eight-column folio, was
established less than a month later by Messrs. C. V. Gard-
ner and John Johnston, the initial number appearing on
June 4th, 1881. In 1883 Mr. Gardner retired from the
firm, leaving the enterprise under the sole proprietorship
and management of Mr. Johnston. On the 1st of Decem-
ber, 1885, Henry & Grant took charge of the paper, which,
556
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
ou November 1st, 1896, passed into the hands of A. C.
Potter, under whose manaoenient it continued until Decem-
ber 3d, 1898, on which date it went into the hands of its
present proprietor^ F. B. Corum.
The first banlv opened in Spearfish was a private institu-
tion established by Stebbins, Fox & Co., in November,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 557
1882, with J. F. Summers as its first cashier. The bank
building of Stebbins, Fox & Co. was the first brick struc-
ture erected in Spearfish. This private concern was organ-
ized under the territorial hiws in 1887 under the title of
the Bank of Spearfish, with L. W. Valentine as president
and J. F. Summers as cashier. The bank organized in
1887 is identical with the present bank of Spearfish.
The first furniture store in Spearfish was opened by John
Johnston in 1882, on H street between Fifth and Sixth
streets.
The first exclusive dry goods store was opened by M.
Liebman, on the site now occupied by W. L. Graham on
Sixth street between H and I streets, and the first clothing
store by Zoellner Bros. & Co., on H street between P'ifth
and Sixth streets, in September, 1891.
In 1883 an association, which, although essentially a
Spearfish institution, was called the Lawrence County
Agricultural Association, was organized with the following
officers: J. C. Ryan of Spearfish, President; L. W. Val-
entine, of Crook City, Vice-President; W. P. Lindley,
Secretary. The first fair of the association, held on the
grounds adjacent to Spearfish, on October of that year, is
pronounced to have been a decided success, the exhibition
of stock, grain, vegetables, poultry, etc., having been
exceedingly fine.
Speaking of this association brings to mind a combina-
tion formed at an early date by the producers of Spearfish
valley, called the "Farmers' Club." This organization,
which, in view of the convictions of the average farmer of
to-day, was, to say the least, remarkable, was in the nature
of a " trust," formed for the purpose of controlling the
price of grain in the markets of the Hills. One of the sec-
tions of the constitution of the "Club," which embodied
rules as binding as the laws of the Medes and Persians, is
as follows, and is well worthy of preservation: —
Preamble : " Whereas the farmers of Lawrence County,
Dakota Territory, believing that they can better regulate and
558 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
control the prices of their produce of all kinds, by a more
perfect organization, do by these presents, agree to adopt
a constitution, by-laws, and rules, as the laws of said
organization."
Section of Constitution: " The members of this ' club '
hereby agree not to sell oats or barley for a less price than
two and one-half cents per pound, at any of the mining or
gulch towns, including Crook City, and two cents per
pound in all the valley towns and valleys where the s^vme
is raised, and the penalty for violating any part of this
section, by any member of this ' club ' shall be a forfeiture
by such member of the sura of $100.00, to be paid to this
club immediately upon ascertaining that a violation has
been committed, and the officers of the club are hereby
authorized to sue and recover the same from any member
violating the provisions of this section.
*'The above shall be binding by law upon all members
until the first day of June, 1880."
How long after that time this peculiar organization was
continued is not known, but perhaps it was merged into
the Farmers' Alliance in 1888 or 1889.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 559
CHAPTER XXXYII.
HORSE-THIEVES AND CATTLE-RUSTLING ON THE NORTHERN
FRONTIER.
Perhaps the most flourishing and profitable industry
carried on in the region lying north and west of the Hills
during the years extending from 1877 to 1883, was horse-
stealing, and what is termed, in the vernacular of the
ranges, "cattle-rustling." During those years, regularly
organized bands of professional thieves and rustlers, the
record of whose crimes, followed sometimes by speedy
retribution, fills not a few tragic pages in the history of
Spearfish, under the guise of ranchmen and hunters, made
their sole living by appropriating the stock that roamed at
large over the northern plains.
The modus operandi of these banded outlaws, many of
whom claimed ranches in remote and out-of-the-way local-
ities, was to run off" the stolen horses to these hidden places
until a sufficient number were secured, when they were
taken into Wyoming, or some other market, and sold for
good prices, while the cattle were driven singly or in num-
bers to some secluded spot, slaughtered, their hides burned,
and the meat sold in the markets of the Hills. It was diflS-
cult to detect them, as they were ostensibly disposing of
their own property, and even if cattle, bearing the brand
of their owners, were traced and found on the premises of
the thieves, it furnished no proof that they had been stolen,
as the wide expanse of prairie was their legitimate range.
Thus it will be seen that the law was practically power-
less to protect private property and the thieves were suf-
fered to continue their nefarious traffic, unwhii)ped of
justice for years. Receiving but little protection from the
courts, the settlers and stock-owners, exasperated beyond
560 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
the point of endurance b}'^ their frequent losses and the
boldness of the thieves, finally resolved to take the law
into their own hands. So one night, early in 1877, a few
determined men met in secret conclave, bound themselves
together by an iron-clad oath, and issued forth, sworn to
mete out summary justice to every " rustler " upon whom
they could henceforward lay their avenging hands; per-
chance the innocent sometimes suffered with the guilty.
They had not long to wait.
One balmy night in August, 1877, it was whispered
around that a party of horse thieves was encamped in the
brush east of Lookout Mountain, and as it approached the
midnight watch a small band of masked men — vigilants
they were — armed to the teeth, carrying a rope, stealthily
made their way round the base of the mountain, crept up
to the camp, captured two men named Bean Davis and
George Skeating, slipped a noose over each head, and
swung them from the limb of a near-by pine tree, and no
other, save the eye of Omniscience, witnessed the tragedy.
It was thought two others, detecting their guarded
approach, made their escape. The vigilants then silently
separated, and each retired to his respective home and bed
to sleep, perchance to dream — of what?
Another, who died with his l)oots on because of his
natural or acquired penchant for other people's horses, was
Jack Cole, a local celebrity known around Spearfish as
" Buckskin Jack," and, by the way, I wonder if he was the
same "Buckskin" who joined the " Centennial Party,"
while en route to the Hills early in the spring of 1876. If
so, he became short on moral scruples, went north on the
range, joined the gang, was finally caught and given free
passage via the suspension route to his last account. Poor
Buckskin !
The most notorious as well as the most nefarious of
the outlaws who for years infested the region northeast
and west of the Hills were what is widely known as the
Exelbee gang, composed of such names as John Campbell,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 561
Billy McCarthy or the *' Kid," Chas. Brown or " Broncho
Charley," and Alex. Grady, with George Exelbee as chief.
Members of the gang frequently visited the settlements in
the garb of hunters or cowboys, for the purpose, so to
speak, of spying out the land, and even men engaged in
legitimate business were sometimes, under the cloak of
respectability, found aiding and abetting the gang and
sharing in its proKts.
In 1878 some of the citizens of the town were suspected,
their movements watched, and finally after a good deal of
detective work on the part of the citizens, were caught.
One night, long after the shadows fell, two of the suspects
were discovered driving off cattle not their own, and were
followed. About midnight they halted to rest, went into
camp, and while sleeping were surrounded by the grim
avengers and captured. No explanation was asked of the
trembling culprits, and none was needed. They had been
caught in the commission of the crime, to expiate which,
they were soon struggling in mid-air from the limb of a
tree, where the bodies were left and afterwards found.
Another man who was strongly suspected of being
secretly connected with the notorious Exelbee gang, now
recalled, was J. B. Pruden, mail contractor, express agent,
and stage owner on the route from Miles City to Spearfish.
Pruden was finally arrested at the former place by a
Deputy United States Marshal, who telegraphed to United
States Marshal A. A. Raymond at Deadwood to send an
officer for the prisoner. Fred. A. Willard, who was deputy
at Spearfish, deputized J. W. Ryan to go to Miles City and
bring Pruden to Deadwood to be tried by the courts.
In the winter of 1883-4 the curtain finally dropped on
the long wicked career of the Exelbee gang, at Stonewall,
Montana. The story of the closing scenes of the tragic
drama, is, shorn of tedious details, about as follows : —
The outlaws in their extended raids had visited the
Indian reservations on the Missouri river and stolen a lot
of Indian horses. Complaint was made by the agent to
36
562 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
the United States District Attorney at Deadwood, and a
warrant was issued for the arrest of the thieves and placed
in the hands of Deputy United States Marshal A. J. Ray-
mond, of Deadwood, who at once put officers on the trail.
The outlaws, having doubtless been forewarned of the
danger of their being caught in the meshes of the law, had
packed their personal equipments, and moved out west-
ward for Miles City. Officers Fred. A. Willard and Jack
O'Harra, of Spearfish, and Capt. A. M. Willard, of Dead-
wood, armed with due process of law, as well as trusty
guns, mounted their horses and started in hot pursuit of
their game, like sleuths on the track of a murderer.
Dr. J. M. Louthan, O. F. Howard, Dan Stout, Osman
Onge, J. Talbot, D. Scoop, H. Hood, Billy Howe, John
Bell, and Bill Gay, from Spearfish, and Deputy United
States Marshals A. A. Raymond, J. C. Duffy, E. P. Jack-
son, and Fred Bartlett, accompanied by Dr. Babcock, as
surgeon from Deadwood, followed, but did not arrive in
time to participate in the battle.
The five mounted bandits with three pack horses were
overtaken at a place called Stonewall, Montana, where a
desperate fight occurred, resulting in the death of one of
the officers, Jack O'Harra, and the mortal wounding of each
member of the gang, except " Billy the Kid," who escaped
unscathed. Upon discovering their game, the ofiicers cir-
cled around to the northward and climbed a little eminence
where they could command the situation, when Willard,
taking position with O'Harra on the right, called to the
leader, Exelbee: " I have a warrant for your arrest;"
whereupon the outlaws turned and faced the ofiicers, when
the shooting began on both sides. Willard's first shot
struck Campbell, who threw up his hands and fell from his
horse, and at about the same moment O'Harra was heard
to exclaim : " I guess I am killed ! " Willard threw his arms
around him as he was about to fall, when a shot from the
rear penetrated his left shoulder, glanced across and came
out at the right, causing a serious though not dangerous
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAHS. 503
flesh wound. O'Harra lived about ten minutes. About
the fourth shot Exelbee was seen to throw up his hands
and fall from his horse. By this time the officers dis-
covered that they were being fired at from the rear by
" Kid," who had taken refuge behind a pile of lumber,
from where he had shot the two officers. During the tight
two more of the outlaws were wounded, the three pack-
horses, and two saddle-horses killed, and two saddle-horses
captured by the officers, leaving them only one horse, with
which to make good their escape.
Exelbee and his men then retreated into the brush, made
a circuit and came out on the opposite of the officers, from
where they fired at a lot of cowboys who chanced to be in
the vicinity, killing one Billy Cunningham and wounding
another, named Jack Harris, who later died as a result of
the wound.
SEQUEL TO THE FIGHT.
That night Exelbee, the wounded chief, came to Sheldon's
ranch, five miles above, with three of his comrades, and
begged for bread, bandages, and money, — saying he was
soiusr to leave the country as it was becoming too torrid for
him. The next day, Campbell, who had gotten separated
from the others, sent to Humphrey Hood, foreman of the
Hash-knife cattle ranch, by a stage driver named Chase, the
following pleading note which tells its own story : —
Dear Hood: " I was badly wounded in the head during
the fight yesterday and my horse was killed. The boys
were all shot to pieces and scattered. For God's sake send
me a horse by bearer as soon as it is dark enough to get
away from the officers."
Hood, not wishing to be implicated, sent the note to
Officer Willard, who detained the bearer. Chase, until dark,
when he and Chas. Conley went with Chase to the cabin
where Campbell was hidden, five miles away. Upon reach-
564 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
iDg the place Chase was ordered to take one of the horses
and fasten him at the gate, then go inside and tell Camp-
bell that there was a horse for him outside. Campbell soon
came out with a pistol in his right and a ride in his left hand
and when half way to the gate Willard called to him to throw
up his hands. Instead of complying he commenced shoot-
ing in the direction of the voice, whereupon Willard and
Conley both fired at the desperate man and he fell dead.
On the Friday following, February 22d, Tuttle was brought
to Spearfish and placed in the county hospital, where Dr.
Louthan examined the wounded arm and found that
amputation would be necessary. The operation was never
performed, for, as the tragic story goes — Ah, pity, 'tis,
'tis true — during the silent hours one dark night a band of
six masked men entered the hospital where the sufferer
slept, gagged him, and carried him away groaning with
pain, the inmates of the hospital meanwhile not daring to
make any outcry against the procedure. The next morn-
ing, the 27th, his rigid body, clad only in a thin cotton shirt,
and a bandage around his neck, supporting his wounded
arm, was seen swinging like a pendulum from the limb of
an oak tree in the cold winter wind, bearing every indica-
tion that he had slowly choked to death. Poor, misguided
man, even now I brush aside a tear at the remembrance
of his unhappy fate.
Tuttle was born and reared in the lap of luxury, — a
father's pride and a fond mother's joy, doubtless. He had
been educated in the best schools of this country, and was
then sent abroad to complete his studies. His father died
leaving him a fortune of $40,000, or |50,000, when he left
New York City and came to the "wild and woolly" West,
landing in Minnesota where he opened the drug business
with a partner. Inexperienced in the ways of the un-
trammeled W^est, and susceptible perhaps to evil influences,
he soon squandered his heritage, and was left penniless.
After wandering from one point to another for a time he
came to the Hills and went onto the cattle range, joined
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH.S. 5G5
the gang, as an easy way to make a living, and Hnully ended
his once promising life, as stated.
The breaking up of this notorious gang had the effect of
putting a final quietus on the several bands of horse and
cattle thieves who had infested the Black Hills for many
years and stock-owners were after that left to their pursuits
urmiolested.
HOW SPEARFISH CAME TO BE CALLED THE QUEEN CITY.
Perhaps there are some in the Black Hills who do not
know how Spearfish came to be honored with the appella-
tion of "The Queen City of the Hills," therefore it may
not be out of place to relate the circumstances under which
it received that distinction. This is the way it originated:
At its first public celebration of our great national holiday,
July 4th, 1878, Judge Bradley of that city — brimming over
with patriotism, as well as admiration for and loyalty to
his adopted city, in his address of welcome gave eloquent
expression to the following trul}^ poetic sentiments: —
" We throw wide open the gates of the city and bid you
welcome to the land of the wild rose, and the home of the
golden £>;rain. Come and kiss the gentle zephvrs mid the
wild flowers — sweeter than Eros ever sipped from the lips
of Psyche. We lay upon the altars of our homes our
hearts and our hospitality, and again we bid you welcome,
yea, a hundred times welcome, to Spearfish, ' The Queen
City of the Hills.' "
This fitting title has clung to Spearfish since that time,
and probably will continue to cling to it for all time to
come. At that first public celebration of the day of our
nation's birth at Spearfish, Lorin E, Gaff'ey, now Judge of
the Sixth Judicial District of South Dakota, delivered the
oration.
PUBLIC SCHOOL.
The Spearfish public school district was first organized
in the fall of 1878, R. H. Evans, J. B. Black, and L. W.
566 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Stone, constituting the tirst board of the district, and the
first term of the public school was taught by Miss Petti-
grew, now Mrs. R. H. Evans, in a log cabin that stood on
the ground now occupied by the Burlington & Missouri
Railway depot, with an attendance of fourteen pupils.
For a few years the schools were taught in rented rooms,
which, proving inadequate, a commodious public school
building was erected in 1881, at a cost of $5,000.00. On
the tirst of November of that year the building was dedi-
cated, since which time the school has grown and flour-
ished. From the time of the opening of the first term in
1878 with one teacher and fourteen pupils, the school has
increased to an enrollment of 230 pupils, separated into
four departments requiring the employment of five
instructors.
In April, 1897, Spearfish was organized into an inde-
pendent school district, and a Board of Education provided
for by special act of the Legislature to consist of two mem-
bers from each of the three wards of the city and a mem-
ber at large. The members of the first board were : P. J.
M. Burgess, President; Hiram Dodson, J. T. McConachie,
Hugh Gibson, Mrs. Viola Smith, W. A. Zink, and J. H.
Russell; Henry Court, Clerk.
SPEARFISH NORMAL SCHOOL.
On a commanding site on the northwestern limits of the
city is located the State Normal School — the especial
boast and pride of the Queen City of the Hills. The edi-
fice is a handsome three-storied structure, in full Roman-
esque style of architecture, surmounted directly over the
main entrance by an imposing tower, which is almost the
first object to attract the attention of the visitor entering
the city from any direction. The superstructure, which rests
upon a half-story basement of stone work, is constructed
of brick, ornamented with light gray sandstone, roofed
with metallic shingles, and presents with its environ-
ments of shade trees and cultivated acres of luscious small
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 567
fruits, a very attractive, and, I might add, an exceedingly
tempting appearance.
The interior arrangements of the building, which nearly
approach perfection, compare favorably in design, finish,
and equipment, with the best institutions of its kind in the
West. It is provided with a commodious assembly room,
study and recitation rooms, laboratory, library, gymnasium,
etc., each of which is handsomely and appropriate!}^ fur-
nished, and fitted with hot and cold registers, thus plac-
ing the temperature of the rooms under the complete con-
trol of the occupants. The library is well filled with works
of the best standard literature, but is especially developed
along the line of science and applied mechanics, and the
museum contains an extensive and valuable collection of
minerals, fossils, and curios. In the basement are the fur-
naces, the manual training rooms, carpenter shop, gymna-
sium, and fuel rooms.
The curriculum of the institution embraces a wide range
of studies, including music, drawing, bookkeeping, stenog-
raphy, physics, chemistry, natural science, Latin, history,
and pedagogics. The course of instruction in these branches
is thorough and complete, especially so along the line of
pedagogics, and some of the best equipped teachers in the
Black Hills have received their training within its classic
walls. Under the efficient management of its principal,
Fayette L. Cook, aided by a corps of competent instruct-
ors, the institution has acquired an enviable reputation
throughout the State, and attracts a large attendance, some
from remote localities, and is a monument to the enterprise
of the men through whose unflagging and untiring efforts
the institution was made possible. The inception of the
enterprise appears to have been hedged about by many dis-
couraging difficulties and failures, as the following brief
account will illustrate : —
The first steps towards the establishment of the school
were taken in 1881, when a bill introduced by Frank J.
Washabaugh passed the Territorial Legislature, authorizing :
568 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
" That a Noimul School for the Territory of Dakota be
established at Spearfish, Lawrence County, the exclusive
purpose of which shall be the instruction of persons both
male and female in the art of teaching, and in all the vari-
ous branches that pertain to a good common school educa-
tion, also to give instruction in the mechanical arts, and in
husbandry and agricultural chemistry, in the fundamental
laws of the United States, and in what regards the riijhts
and duties of citizens; provided, that a tract of land not
less than forty acres be donated and secured to the Terri-
tory of Dakota, in fee simple, as a site for said Normal
school, within six months from the taking effect of this
act ; and the Governor of the Territory is hereby em-
powered, and it is made his duty to see that a good and
sufficient deed, so far as can be, be made to the Territory
for the same."
Through failure to comply with the requirements of the
act, in the matter of securing a site within the specified
time, the law became null and void. At the legislative
session of 1883, the same bill was again introduced by Mr.
Washabaugh, and again passed through both branches of the
Legislature. Messrs. Joseph Ramsdell of Spearfish, R. D.
Millett of Lead, and F. P. Bass of Central, were appointed
on the Board of Directors who, upon receiving their cre-
dentials, at once proceeded to secure the requisite ground.
Various eligible sites were offered at prices ranging from
$3,000.00 to $800.00, the latter offer being made by Mr.
John Maurer, for the ground on which the Normal building
now stands, consisting of forty acres of land traversed by
two irrigating ditches, which, being the cheapest eligible
site, was favored by the board. Before entering into
arrangements for the transfer of the ground, however, a
citizens' meeting was called, at which two of the citizens
of Spearfish, M. C. Connors and W. F. Powers, offered to
donate the ground jointly — the latter to give twenty acres
from his ground on the plateau south of town and the
former to purchase an equal number of acres from the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 509
Bradley farm adjoining. The board readily accepted the
offer, and agreed to build the school on the donated ground.
Accordingly Messrs. Connors and Powers executed a
deed to the aforesaid grounds to the Territory and had
it recorded, but contrary to the letter and spirit of the
act, it contained the proviso that the said premises are
to be used by the said Territory for the said purpose with-
in two years from the date thereof, and if not so used by
the said Territory, the said property shall revert to said
M. C. Connors and W. T. Powers, respectively. The deed
was forwarded to Gov. N. J. Ordway in August, within
less than a month of the time when the law would again
become inoperative.
Upon receipt of the document the Governor sent the
following dispatch : —
Bismarck, D. T., August 28th, 1883.
Jos. Ramsdell, Spearfish :
Acts of 1883 provide bond must be secured to Territory,
in fee simple. See chapter 20, special act session laws of
1883. I cannot accept any other form of title.
(Signed) N. J. Ordway,
Governor.
Upon receipt of dispatch Mr. Ramsdell appealed to the
donors, who refused to amend the deed to conform to the re-
quirements of the Act, when the board renewed the effort to
secure the Maurer site, which was successful. The ground
was purchased at the terms aforementioned, and a deed in
fee simple made to the Territory therefor just in time to
save the Act from o-oino^ a second time into the Governor's
waste basket. The purchase fund for the site was secured
by subscription among those friendly to the enterprise.
On the strength of the merger appropriation of $5,000.00
for building, and $2,000.00 for first year's running ex-
penses, the enterprise was launched. By dint of economy,
an apology for a building was erected, and by renting the
school furniture of the Congreoational Academy, which had
570 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
been discontinued, it was made possible to open the school
on the 14th of April, 1884, with Prof. Van B. Baker as
first principal and an attendance at the opening of term of
tvventy students, which soon increased to forty. The open-
ing year of the school under the principalship of Prof. Van
B. Baker appears not to have proven a glittering success.
His mismanagement and general defalcations along the line
of his school duties became so unsatisfactory to the students
and distasteful to the patrons and the board that he was
compelled to surrender the helm in January, some months
before the close of the first school year, to more judicious
and capable hands.
The $2,000 appropriated for first year's running ex-
penses having become exhausted, the school remained
closed until the following fall. In the interim, Mr. Harry
M. Gregg, assisted by Mr. Washabaugh, succeeded in
securing from the Legislature of 1885 an appropriation of
$5,000 for the purchase of needed furniture and the main-
tenance of the school for the two succeeding years. In
March, 1885, Gov. Pierce appointed a new board of direct-
ors, composed of Messrs. H. M. Gregg, Samuel Cushman,
and Albert Powers, who were fortunate in securing Fay-
ette L. Cook, the present incumbent, to take charge of the
school.
On the 14th of September, 1885, Prof. Cook opened
the school for its second term with seventeen students,
which number, under his superior management, increased
to thirty-seven before the close of the first term. The next
term the attendance increased to seventy, when it became
necessary to employ an assistant, for which position the
services of Miss Zella Busian, a graduate of the Winona
Normal School, Minnesota, were secured.
The third year opened September 6th, 1886, with over
ninety students, while the seating capacity of both rooms
of the school was only seventy-eight, which, before the
close of the term, increased to an enrollment of 104, be-
sides a number were refused admission for lack of capacity.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 571
During the third year three assistants were employed, viz. :
Miss Busian, Miss W. A. Thompson, and Miss Bertha
Youmans, the latter having charge of the primary depart-
ment of the public school, which had, by permission of the
district school board, been converted into a model school
for the Normal,
On June 28th, 1887, the first graduating class, consist-
ing of Misses Nettie M. Pratt, Maude A. Gardner, Jean
Cowgill, Cora Grubbs, May Chase, Kate M. Kemper, Sallie
R. Pryor, and Masters Harry M. Jones, Richard G. Whit-
ney and Eugene T. Pettigrew, received their diplomas,
'mid the perfume of potted plants and bouquets of flowers.
At the legislative session of 1887 Mr. John Wolzmuth
by untiring and unremitting effort, assisted by Messrs.
Patton and Stewart in the House, and Washabaugh and
Wells in the Council, succeeded in securing the passage of
a bill authorizing the appropriation of $25,000.00 for the
construction of a suitable building, and $21,400.00 for the
current expenses of the ensuing two years. The newly ap-
pointed board of directors, Mr. Wolzmuth, J. F. Summers,
and A. Powers, under the advice of the principal, set about
perfecting plans for a structure, worthy of the school,
which resulted in the construction of the building already
described. Under the experienced and skillful guidance of
Professor Cook, who is still at the helm, the institution
year by year has grown in popularity until it is to-day the
pride, not only of the "Queen City," but of the entire
Black Hills.
ORGANIZATION.
On March 31st, 1885, the town organization was com-
pleted, with J. F. Summers, Frank Welch, Henry Keets,
Jas. Rogers, and J. A. Bishop as Board of Trustees, of
which J. F. Summers was President, and Frank Overman,
clerk. On June 7th, 1888, the town was organized under
the general incorporation laws into the " City of Spearfish "
and divided into three wards to be represented iu the City
572 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Council by two members from each ward. The first
officers of the city were M. C. Connors, Mayor; John A.
Chirk, Clerk; Henry Keets, Dr. J. M. Louthan, Henry
Court, W. H. Harlow, H. A. Miller, and Frank Welch,
Aldermen,
The Spearfish water system, which is owned by the city,
was established during the summer of 1887. An abundant
water supply is drawn from mountain springs, known as
" Clemmons Springs," some two or three miles away, and
poured into a reservoir one hundred and sixty feet above
the level of the street. This is distributed through the
city, and for defense against fires is supplemented by an
excellent fire department.
The Spearfish Fire Department, consisting of Hose Com-
panies Nos. 1 and 2, Alert Hose Company, and one Hook
& Ladder Company, was first organized on April 15th,
1888, with John A. Clark as its first Chief. The present
department is represented by the same companies.
The first daily newspaper published in Spearfish, called
the Spearfish Evening Bulletin was established by J. H. &
E. H. Warren, the first issue appearing June 3d, 1889.
The Spearfish Mail, a weekly publication, was established
by the same firm, on January 29th, 1889, and is identical with
the Spearfish Mail of to-day. The paper, a wide-awake,
readable sheet, is under the present control and manage-
ment of E. H. Warren, now member elect to the House of
the South Dakota Legislature.
The Spearfish Electric Light system was established in
1893 by the Spearfish Electric Light and Power Co., com-
posed of Chicago capitalists. The lights are maintained
by a plant located on Spearfish river some two and half
miles from the city, at a cost to the muncipality of $1,260
per year. The system is managed by G. C. Favorite, an
expert electrician.
The manufacturing industries of Spearfish consist of a
fine flouring mill, stucco works, a planing mill and two
saw mills. Moreover, among its industries may also be
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS. 573
listed a cyanide gold-reduction plant which is now in course
of construction, if, indeed, it is not already finished and in
operation. The enterprise was projected and established
by an organization known as the Spearfish Cyanide Co.,
composed chiefly of " Bagged Top " mining men who
design putting the plant in operation on the refractory
ores of the Ragged Top Mining district where a group of
claims designated the Metallic Streak, located on Calamity
gulch, has been leased. With commendable economy the
company leased an old disused stucco mill at Spearfish,
which was remodeled, enlarged, and equipped with the
requisite machinery to the capacity of twenty-five tons of
ore per day. It is claimed that the ore deposit which
crosses the claims is three feet in thickness carrying an
average of $10.00 per ton of gold. This with the fact that
the claims are located within easy hauling distance of the
B. and M. Station, reducing the cost of transportation to a
minimum, should insure to the projectors of the enterprise
profitable returns from their investment.
Besides the State Normal and public school building,
Spearfish has three places of public worship, viz., the Con-
gregational, Methodist, and Episcopal Churches. There are
also Catholic and Christian societies which have no church
buildings. Among the secret order are the Masonic and
Odd Fellows' societies, established in 1880, the Knights
of Pythias, A. O. U. W. and Modern Woodmen of America.
With the advent of the Burlington Railway in December,
1893, Spearfish was brought into more vital commercial
relations with the trade centers of the Hills, since which
time its growth, if not phenomenally rapid, has been sure
and steadfast. That its stimulating influence has been felt
through every avenue of enterprise is indicated by its long
array of business establishments of various kinds. Besides
its two newspapers and a flourishing banking institution,
it has two hotels, three stores of general merchandise, one
exclusive grocery store, one store of dry goods, boots and
shoes, one store of groceries, boots and shoes, two drug
574 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stores, one clothing store, one hardware store, three con-
fectionery and stationery stores, two variety stores, two
millinery shops, three blacksmith shops, three livery barns,
three barber shops, one photograph gallery, one tailor
shop, three real estate offices, three doctors, three lawyers,
and claims a present population of 1,500 souls.
While Spearfish depends largely upon the agricultural
products of the broad fertile valleys, which spread out in
all directions, it derives no inconsiderable volume of its
trade from the numerous cattle ranches, occupying the
foot-hills and uplands bordering the valleys, of which it is
the headquarters. Moreover, the valley of Spearfish river
is the natural outlet of several promising mining districts,
some of which have been systematically developed in past
years, and which with needed facilities will become im-
portant factors in the future business economy of the city
to which they are tributary.
Only twelve miles away to the southwest is the once
famous " Nigger Hill " tin district, whose extent and rich-
ness has been long since demonstrated, and which experts
declared produced five per cent pure tin. When that
important industry is revived in the Black Hills, as it
doubtless will be with changed conditions, " Nigger Hill "
will doubtless rival in production any other portion of the
Hills. At the foot of " Nigger Hill " are the Bear gulch
placer diggings, which in the early years produced some
of the richest specimens of wash gold found in the Black
Hills, indicating the existence of valuable gold ledges,
within the drainage area of the stream. Near at hand is
the erstwhile booming silver-lead carbonate camp, the scene
of the great "Iron Hill" excitement which in 1886 com-
pletely overturned the mental equilibrium of even old miners
and prospectors, to say nothing of inexperienced tender-
feet. The great bubble collapsed, it is true, but did not
burst and may again be inflated. Considerable work is now
being done on the property, and its production may yet
prove a tangible quantity in the mineral wealth of the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 575
northern Hills. Then there is the Ragged Top district,
whose siliceous gold ores will soon be carried to the doors
of the city over the steel rails of the Burlington Railway for
reduction. These, with the extensive quarries of marble,
limestone, gypsum, etc., in the surrounding hills, and last,
but not least, its proximity and accessibility to the extensive
coal fields of Hay creek, give Spearfish no insignificant
portion of the mineral wealth of the Black Hills. Albeit,
those who expect to see in the Queen City a booming town
like Deadwood and Lead will be greatly disappointed, for
instead they will find a sober, serious community pursuing
the even tenor of its way, in an unostentatious, yet
thoroughly business-like manner.
576 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
GALENA SILVER CAMP.
In a deep gulch, surrounded on nil sides by lofty pine-
covered hills, about six miles in an air line southeast of
Deadwood, on Bear Butte creek, is situated Galena, the
center of the chief silver mining industry of the Black Hills.
Early in March, 1876, a number of prospectors in search
of gold, penetrated the region along that stream and dis-
covered the silver mines, which have since made that dis-
trict famous. Among the first settlers in Galena were
James Conzette, E. R. Collins, David Dusette, Wm. Fer-
guson, W. H. Wood, David Galvin, Arthur Finnegan, and
an Italian named Esperando Feri. Among the earliest
mines discovered were the Florence, and Merritt Nos. 1 and
2, by H. N. Merritt & Brother; the Sitting Bull, by Frank
Cochrane ; the Emma, by James Conzette; the El-Refugio,
by W. H. Franklin & Cook; other locations, both gold and
silver, soon following. While developing these mines, a
vein of almost pure galena was exposed in the Florence
and Sitting Bull ledges — from which discovery the town
derives its name.
In September, 1876, Robt. Florman, the veteran miner
and prospector, arrived in the new silver camp and pur-
chased the Florence mine, which he owned and developed
until 1878, when the property was absorbed by the
" Florence Mining Company," an organization of St. Paul
capitalists, who erected a ten-stamp mill on the property
and operated them until about 1880, during which time the
town had grown into considerable prominence. It received
its first real importance, however, from the subsequent
silver mining operations of Col. J. H. Davey, an expert in
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAlvOTAHS. 577
the treatment of the white metal, who arrived in the camp in
1880. Mr. Davey secured a lease on the Florence mine
and mill which yielded such an encouraging profit that in
1881 he purchased the proi)erty, secured other mineral and
timber land, and at once began the work of increasing and
improving the facilities for operating the same. lie built
an extensive and completely equipped smelting plant,
which, it is believed, was the first of the kind creeled in the
Black Hills, enlarged the capacity of the mill to twenty
stamps, and put the wheels of the silver reduction industry
in motion. After operating the property successfully
for something less than a year, a process of injunction
was served on Mr. Davey by the Richmond Mining Com-
p any, which had the effect of closing down and silencing the
works for many years. Long and expensive litigation
ensued, the question involved being the right of the en-
joined to follow the trend or dip of his ledge beyond the
side lines of his claim which joined that of the Richmond
Company on the north.
For several years the case was exploited in the courts of
Deadwood, from where it was sent on appeal to the
Supreme Court of the Territory of Dakota, where a decis-
ion was handed down in favor of the enjoiner. It was
then appealed to the Supreme Court of the United States
where the case was still pending, when Col. Davey, impa-
tient of the law's delays, gave up the battle, disposed of his
property, and left the Black Hills for a new field of enter-
prise in the Far West. Subsequently the case was settled
out of court by a compromise between Mr. Davey's suc-
cessors and the Richmond Mining Co.
Notwithstanding the discouraging conditions resulting
from the temporary closing of the silver industry, a faith-
ful few stayed by the camp during its period of depression,
ami the town remained a tangible reality until it was revivi-
fied by the operations of the Union Hill Mining Co. in
1897. On the 22d of March of that year, the Union
Hill Mining Company, a New Jersey corporation, filed
37
578 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
articles in the office of the Secretary of the State of South
Dakota with Francis C. Grable of Omaha, Neb., Herbert
F. Hatch of East Orange, N. J., and Jacol) Sterner of
Jersey City, N. J., as incorporators.
Included in this company's properties were the Florence
mine, stamp mill and smelting plant, the Richmond, Sitting
Bull, Emma, Alexander, Union Hill, Hoodoo, Gold Bug,
and the Calumett and Colletta groups of mines. Under
the management, or perhaps it would better be said, mis-
management of Francis C. Grable, extensive preparations,
involving large expenditures, were at once begun, to operate
the company's properties on a gigantic scale. The mill
and smelting plant were overhauled and put in complete
repair, sumptuous officers' quarters were provided; assay
and chemical rooms, and a mammoth building for a 200-
stamp mill — in which, however, the machinery was never
installed — was built, but, at the expiration of about one
year of " pernicious activity," the further progress of the
promising enterprise, like a thunder-clap from a cloudless
sky, was suddenly arrested, — the manager had ventured
beyond his depth, and was lost amid the breakers.
Despite this failure, the future prospects of the camp
are exceedingly promising. It has been satisfactorily dem-
onstrated that there are numerous very valuable silver as
well as gold mines in the district, which, with judicious
management, will develop into extensive, paying proper-
ties. A few miles farther up, on the headwaters of Bear
Butte creek, there were also discovered valuable gold and
silver mines at an early date. Notably the Oro Fino gold
mine in Strawberry gulch. The Oro Fino Mining Com-
pany operated a twenty-stamp mill on the mine for a num-
ber of years, but the ore body, though rich, was not
altogether free milling, for which reason it proved unprofit-
able. With the proper method of treatment this, with
other locations in the vicinity, will doubtless become paying
properties.
LAST HUNTING GKOUND OF THE DAKOTAH8. 579
TERRY.
Lying almost directly under the shadow of the lofty peak
from which it derives its name, about nine geographical
miles southwest of Deadwood, is Terr}', the minino- center
of the great siliceous ore district of the northern Hills.
In view of the difficulty found in ascertaining just when
the town was laid out and platted, the conclusion is
reached that perhaps Terry, like " Topsy," "never was
horned, but just growed." At a venture, however, it may
be said that it probably drew its first embryotic breath as a
town back in the late 80's, about, or perchance a little after,
the time when Prof. Carpenter of Deadwood, and other
expert chemists and mineralogists, were, metaphorically
speaking, lying awake o' nights, puzzling their brains in
trying to discover some occult process by which to clas-
sify and separate the new character of ore that had been
encountered in the region of the Bald Mountain. At any
rate the town exists, and owes its present importance, to
the final successful treatment of the rebellious ore product
of that now famous district.
Prior to this time there had existed small temporary
raining camps on " Squaw creek" and " Nevada" gulches,
but as soon as the district proved to be a productive field,
the rush of prospectors, miners, and speculators made the
demand for a general center a necessity, and the site at
the northeastern base of Terry's peak was selected for such
center but, whether by design or mere tacit consent, or
whether laid out and the lots sold by an organized com-
pany, or whether taken under a " squatter's" rights, re-
mains unfortunately a matter for speculation. Howbeit,
no more desirable spot could have been found within the
limits of the refractory ore belt.
By reason of its advantageous situation, in the heart of
a rich mining district, enhanced by the progressive spirit
of the community, the town has forged rapidly to the
580
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
front, and is to-day no insignificant power in the business
as well as political economy of the northern Hills. It has
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schools, religious societies, newspapers, and secret organiza-
tions salore.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 581
In July, 1891, school district No. 76, of Lawrence County,
was organized, with M. A. Wilcox as president, Joseph
Congdon, clork, and Geo. M. Glover, treasurer. The first
school was taught in a small log cabin in Nevada gulch, by
Miss Atlanta Fuller of Lead, with an attendance of ten
pupils.
Subsequently a small school building, consisting of one
room, twenty-four by forty feet, was erected at Terry,
which, to accommodate the increased attendance of pupils,
was soon enlarged by an addition of equal dimensions, and
in 1897 a second addition of a room, twenty-eight by
thirty feet, was made, at a cost of $1,000.00. The school
is now composed of three departments, under the efficient
priucipalship of L. P. McCain, with an aggregate attend-
ance of 217 pupils.
Terry has three religious organizations, the Methodist,
Congregational, and Catholic, the latter being the only one
having, as yet, a church edifice erected.
Terry, being essentially a raining community, at an early
date in its history, August, 1891, organized a Miners'
Union society which has since increased to 650 members,
more than three-fifths of its entire population.
The secret societies are : the Ancient Order of United
Workmen, organized December 24th, 1894, now number-
ing 110 members : the " Home Forum," organized October
1st, 1897, fifty-four members; " Knights of Pythias,"
organized June 8th, 1898, sixty-five members; "Odd
Fellows," organized November 10th, 1898, forty members ;
"Woodmen of the World," organized October, 1898,
twenty members.
The fire department, consisting of Terry Hose Company
No. 1, was organized November 14th, 1898, and doubtless
the department makes up in efficiency what it lacks in its
number of companies.
Terry can also boast of two newspapers, the Bald Moun-
tain News and the Terry Record, both weekly publications.
582 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
The Bald Mountain JSfeivs was established on March 2(1,
1895, by John H. Skinner, who conducted the Enterjjrise
until August, 1898, when it was purchased by I. R. Crow,
its present editor and proprietor. The Terry Record was
established on June 5th, 189o, and is now published by
Messrs. Wilcox and Monkman. The fact that each of these
newspapers has a bona fide circulation of 500 copies,
evidences the estimation in which the publications are held
by the reading and news-loving community of Terry. The
professions are represented by two lawyers and two doctors.
The business houses of Terry consist of one store of
general merchandise, one exclusive grocery store, one
hardware, two drug, one clothing, one jewelry, two confec-
tion and stationery stores, two bakeries, three barber shops,
two blacksmith's shops, two livery barns, one meat market,
five hotels, three restaurants and four saloons. Population,
1,000.
THE BALD MOUNTAIN REFRACTORY ORE DEPOSIT.
Not having made a special study of the subject, I dare
not venture or [iresume, of my own knowledge, to describe
the peculiar rock formation and characteristics of this
remarkable deposit but geologists who know whereof
they speak would call them " contact deposits " found in
Palaezoic rock formation, the ore bodies occurring in long
" shoots," instead of continuous veins. These " shoots "
usually vary from fifty to sixty feet in width and from two
inches to ten or twelve feet in thickness, but in exceptional
cases are much wider, as in the great Tornado mine, whose
ore body is 300 feet in width, extending from Nevada to
Whitetail gulches, and very rich. The ore found through-
out the Bald Mountain region, including Rub}' Basin,
Garden City, and Ragged Top, is what is termed by scien-
tists, " refractory " — a generic name applied to all ores,
not separable by amalgamation or the stamp mill process.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 583
The history of this wonderful region furnishes a
splendid iUustrution of the mystery of nature's processes
in mineral formations, and of how millions of gold may lie
for years, practically worthless, under foot, until through
equally mj^sterious chemical agencies, the component parts
of the mass are disintegrated.
The attention of the ever-searching prospector was first
turned to this reljellous ore district early in 1877, during
which year numerous locations were made on Squaw creek,
Nevada and Fantail gulches, in the immediate vicinity of
Bald Mountain, to which locality the earliest discoveries
were principally confined. Among the first locations that
are now producing mines were the Portland, Empire State,
Clinton, Double Standard, Rebecca, Big Bonanza, " Willie
Wassel," now the Tornado, and others. The Portland is
claimed to be the first mine in the district in which the
ore body, after repeated chemical tests, and stamp-mill
process, was found to be " refractory."
At an early date a twenty-stamp mill was erected on the
property by the original locators by which the ores of the
Portland and several other mines in the vicinity were tested
and althouo;h submitted to the " roasting; " and " bleach-
ing " process before being run through the mill, the ores
uniformly refused to yield their rich product of gold. In
1878 a thirty-stamp mill was built on the Lackawana mine,
now known as the Snowstorm, which also proved a failure.
As a consequence many of the mines which are to-day the
best gold-producers in the district, after absorbing the con-
tents of many voluptuous pocketbooks in vain experiment,
were practically abandoned by their owners and Bald
Mountain became, for a few years, a by-word and a re-
proach.
" No paying mines will ever be found in the Black Hills
outside the ' Belt,' " was confidently asserted by many.
Nothwithstanding, some clung tenaciously to their claims
with a sublime faith in their intrinsic worth, doing their
legal development work each year, while others turned
584 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
their backs forever upon the — to them, novel formation.
Science, however, applied by men, skilled in the use of
chemicals, and the nature of the affinity, existing between
different metals, after long and patient experiment with the
rebellious stuff at last solved the perplexing problem, that
took away the reproach from Bald Mountain. Eureka !
The real value of these ores was not fully demonstrated
until about 1887, when renewed interest was awakened in
the district. Abandoned mines were relocated, new ones
were discovered, and the boundaries of the limited territory
began to widen and the mines to multiply, until to-day
there are more than a hundred rich producers in the gulches
centering around Bald Mountain. New probabilities opened
up before the eyes of the ever-alert prospector, and sent
him poe-t-haste into adjacent fields in search of the erst-
while despised deposit. Rub}' Basin, " Garden City,"
and finally the "Ragged Top" district, all of similar
formation and character, were added to the siliceous ore
territory, which now comprises, including the latter, an
area of perhaps twent^'-five or thirty square miles, with
producing mines scattered over the entire area.
The major part of the ores from these districts are
treated at the Golden Rew\ard Chlorination plant, the Dead-
wood and Delaware Pyritic Smelter and the Cyanide re-
duction works at Dead wood, and the Kildonan plant at
Pluma, and some are shipped to Omaha, Denver, and Kansas
City. The gold-laden product is transported from the
various mines to these plants, over the *' Elkhorn " and
" Burlington " narrow-gauge railroads, each of which, from
opposite sides, extends its ramifications through the
gulches to all the productive mines in the district.
Among the productive mines around Bald Mountain, are
the following : —
The Portland, on Squaw Creek between Deadwood and
Nevada gulches, located in 1877 by a Mr. Brown, but now
owned by the Portland Consolidated Mining Co.
The Tornado Mine, on Nevada gulch, originally located
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS.
585
in June, 1877, by Joseph L. Oit and Wm. Richmonil, and
first culled Willie Wussel Lode. In 1882, it was relocated
by Jos. Orr and Andrew Hanson, a Mr. Schlittengcr after-
wards becoming interested in the property, when the name
was changed from Willie Wassel to Tornado. During the
same year it was transferred, in whole or in part, to James
586 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Schultz, when the mine was incorporated. Subsequently,
it was sold to Martin Chapman, Earnest May and Seth
Bullock, who stocked the property and sold to the Golden
Reward Company.
The ore body of the Tornado mine is by far the largest
in the district, the deposit extending from Nevada to White-
tail gulches, 300 feet in width and from ten to twelve feet
in thickness.
The Double Standard mine, now one of a group, was
located in 1877 by Thomas Edwards. The "Last Chance,"
now known as the Liberty Lode, belonging to the Double
Standard group, was located in 1877 between Nevada and
Fantail gulches. The Bio; Bonanza, situated on Fantail
gulch, was located by Martin Chapman, in 1877. The Clin-
ton on Nevada gulch was located by Ankeny Brothers in
1877. The Rebecca, also on Nevada gulch, was located by
John Strobe and William Dirkin in 1877.
The Empire State Lode and the Decorah Lode on Green
Mountain were both located in 1877 by Messrs. John
Greenough, HoUoway, and McHenry.
The Ross Hannibal, located in 1877, is now owned by
the D. & D. Smelting Co. The Buxton, now beh:)nging
to the Buxton group, situated between Nevada and Fantail
gulches, was located in 1878 by Messrs. Molliter and Mc-
Allister. The Welcome, now one of the Welcome group,
at the base of Terry's Peak, was located in July, 1878, by
G. F. King and Mattiner, who bonded the property to
Cephas Waite, who built the chlorination plant at Rapid
City. The property now belongs to the Horseshoe Com-
pany, and the ores are treated at the Kildonan plant at
Pluma. The Horseshoe mine, at the base of Terry's Peak,
belongs to Horseshoe Company.
The Harmony group, on south side of Fantail gulch, was
located in July, 1879, by G. F. King and Desire La Chap-
elle, who also during the same year located the Rebecca,
afterwards incorporated and called the " Retreiver."
The Bascobell or Smiley Lundt group, situated same as
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 587
Retreiver, was located by Messrs. Luiult and Toney in
1879.
The Baltimore and Richmond, originally called the Mary-
land and Virginia, on Nevada gulch, was located by Col.
Mnse and J. J. Goff in 1878.
The Dark Horse, Grant, and Lackawana, the latter now
known as the " Snowstorm " were located on Nevada gulch
in 1877 or 1878 by Messrs. Collins and O'Lcary. The
two first named mines are now owned jointly by the Golden
Reward Company and the original locators, the latter still
owning the Snowstorm. In 1878, as before stated, a thirty-
stamp mill was built on the Lackawana, which proved a
failure.
The Trojan Enterprise group, between Deadwood and
Nevada gulches, was located in 1878 by Messrs. Greenough
and A. J. Smith, but it is now owned by the Portland Con-
solidated Mining Company.
The Apex group, on Nevada gulch, was located in 1878
by Hugh and Thos. McGovern. The property, which is
now in litigation, is owned by the McGovern heirs.
The Leopold mine, between Deadwood and Nevada
gulches, was located in 1890, and is now owned by the
Golden Reward Company.
The Golden Reward and Maggie claims, on Fantail
gulch, were originally located by Wm. Wilson and Martin
Chapman, but are now owned and operated by the Golden
Reward Company. The Bottleson group, located by Eli
Bottleson in 1890, and the Little Bonanza, on Fantail, are
owned by the same company.
The Golden Smds mine, on Deadwood gulch, was located
in 1886 by the McGovern brothers, and is now owned by
the Horseshoe Company.
The Mark Twain, on Nevada gulch, was located in 1884
by Street Brothers, and is now owned by the Horseshoe
Company.
The Dividend, between Deadwood and Nevada gulches,
was leased from the original locators, whose names are not
588 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
known, by Messrs. Greenoii^h, Mosier, and Harris, but is
now owned by S. M. Kane, of Chicago.
The Ben Hur, on Nevada gulch, was located in 1886 by
Alex. Patterson, but is now owned by Messrs. Faucett &
Dalahaut, Earnest May, and S. M. Kane, of Chicago.
The Gunnison group, on Square creek, is now owned by
Seth Bullock, of Deadwood.
The Plutas, between Nevada and Fantail gulches, located
in 1883, by Henry Lundt and Lewis Toney, and sold
by them to Martin Chapman and Earnest May in 1886,
is now the property of the Golden Reward Company.
The Hardscrabble was located in 1884 on Fantnil gulch
by Hugh Carr and Albert Moliter.
The Ryan Fraction, on Nevada gulch, was located in
1887 by Messrs. Hawgood, Chambers & Workman.
The Stuart Lode, located in 1887 by A. D Clark.
The \Vm. Sherman group, located in 1884 by Joseph
L. Orr.
The Calumet, location not known, but is a rich producer
and is owned by the Deadwood & Delaware Smelting
Company.
The Isadora group, located by W. A. Wilson in 1884.
The Little Bonanza, on Fantail gulch, was located by
Chas. Schrader, in 1886.
Besides those mentioned there may be many other pro-
ducing mines in the district which have not come to the
knowledge of the writer, but those named will show some-
thing of the extent and richness of the refractory ore belt
of the northern Hills. The output from these mines, which
has already been something immense, is increasing in vol-
ume year by year, and making many of their fortunate
owners correspondingly rich. Not all are fortunate, how-
ever, as diofofino^ for gold under the most favorable condi-
tions is a good deal of a lottery.
The largest unproductive mines in the district and perhaps
in the Black Hills are what are known as the Snowstorm
group, situated on Nevada gulch. The property was
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
589
located by John Hawgood in 1888, but is now owned by
Messrs. Huwgood and Wilcox. It has a shaft down over
342 feet in depth and is traversed by 2,700 feet of tunnel-
ing which development has cost the owners $100,000
The future output of this group of mines may soon be
wonder of the world.
00.
the
590 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
WHITE WOOD.
Whitewood, one of the youngest of the important towns
of Lawrence County, is handsomel}' located on Whitewood
creek near the foot-hills, about seven miles north of Sturoris.
The original plat of the town was laid out on December
8th, 1887, by the Pioneer Town-site Company and the
Chicago & Northwestern Railway Company, and owes its
origin to the arrival of the F. E. & M. V. R. R. at that
point. This extension of the Northwestern Railway line
reached the point where Whitewood stands, in November,
1887, and remained the terminus until 1890, during which
years the town forged rapidly to the fore. In, May, 1888, it
was incorporated with Enos Lane, J. C. Jones, and Patrick
Cusick, as members of the first Board of Trustees.
In the fall of 1888 two church societies were organized,
viz., the Methodist and Presbyterian, both of whioh now
have neat houses of public worship. During the same
year School District No. 6G of Lawrence County was organ-
ized, J. C. Caliban, Elijah Fowler, and H. S. Grant, consti-
tuting the first school board. The town has now a com-
modious two-story frame school building separated into
three departments, aflbrding ample accommodations for
the children of the town. The school has a present enroll-
ment (1898) of 136 pupils, which are divided into three
grades — grammar, intermediate and primary, conducted
under the present superversion of Prof. Arthur Reynolds.
In 1889, the first flouring mill, having a capacity of fifty
barrels of flour per day, was erected by Christopher Crow,
and operated until 1892, when the plant was destroyed by
fire. This mill was supplemented by the erection of the
present Whitewood Flouring Mill, by Messrs. Mitchell &
Thompson in 1894, which is a forty-five horse-power steam
mill, having an easy daily capacity of fifty barrels of flour
per day. The plant is equipped with the most approved
machinery, uses the full roller process, and has the reputa-
tion of manufacturing flour of a superior grade.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAHS. 591
The Whitewood Water System was constructed during
the year 1890, by H. T. Cooper, of Whitewood, at a cost
of $15,000. The supply is drawn from Oak Grove SprJDgs,
situated one mile from the limits of the town and conducted
through pipes to two separate reservoirs, located at the
requisite elevation above the streets, having a capacity of
50,000 gallons each, whence it is distributed through six-
inch mains, provided with hydrants for fire purposes, to
all parts of the town.
The Whitewood Fire Department is composed of Rescue
Hose Company, No, 1, which was organized in September,
1891, supplemented by a Juvenile Hose Company, and is
officered as follows: H. T. Cooper, Chief; H. H. Broman,
Foreman ; G. B. Adams, Secretary ; and H. B. Tremble,
Treasurer. The Whitewood A. O. U. W. society was
organized in May, 1892, and has a present membership of
eighty-five.
Whitewood sustains a weekly newspaper, the Whitewood
Plaind€ale7\ which was established by DeKay Brothers
at an early date in the history of the town, and also a
flourishing banking institution.
In addition to these it has three hotels, two general stores,
two grocery, one hardware, one drug, one confection-
ery, and one millinery store, two implement houses, two
livery barns, two blacksmith shops, and one saloon.
The other towns and small settlements of Lawrence
County are St. Ange, situated on False Bottom creek, and
a station on the Elkhorn Railroad, where is settled a com-
munity of French Canadians — Englewood, Dumont, Nasby,
Nemo, Brownsville, Perry, Nahant, and perhaps others.
592 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
CHAPTER XXXIX.
OUR PIONEERS.
To those who are fond of iulventures, there are perhaps
no more interesting characters portrayed on the pages of
American history than those of our pioneers, who con-
quered this great American wilderness from the dominion
of the red men. Ever since the time, more than four
centuries ago, when the great Venetian navigator anchored
his small fleet off the bleak coast of Eistern Labrador, and
planted the English flag on its sterile soil, taking possession
thereof in the name of England's king, there have been
pioneers and pioneers, whose daring deeds and heroic ex-
ploits have been prolific theme-j for the pen of the his-
torian whose praises have been rung in song and story, —
brave, adventurous men, who from various points and at
different periods, resolutely pushed their way towards the
setting sun, until it may be said that nearly every portion
of the American Continent, from the Atlantic to the golden
shores of the Pacific, has witnessed the struggles, the hard-
ships, the sufferings, and been freely baptized in the blood
of our pioneers. The last, but b}^ no means the least, on
the long list are our own Black Hills pioneers, than whom,
in all that pertains to undaunted courage, no truer heroes
have appeared on the pages of our history.
In this connection the question : " Who are our pio-
neers?" seems pertinent, as there are several grades of
Black Hills pioneers.
When, in 1874, the little band of twenty-six men shoul-
dered their guns and marched away over the unknown,
trackless plains through the entire length of the hostile
Sioux domain into the wilderness, and planted the banner
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 593
of civilization iimid the mountain fastnesses of the Black
Hills and erected their comfortless homes under the shadow
of their loftiest peak in the depth of winter, they were
pioneers. When, in 1875, the Black Hills having lapsed
for a brief time into their original solitude, other brave
spirits blazed their way over new routes into the wilder-
ness in the teeth of the most active military opposition,,
and built the first town in the Black Hills, they were pio-^
neers. When, in 1876, heroic hundreds hewed their way-
through the most bloodthirsty and warlike of the Indian,
tribes, built towns, established newspapers, schools, stage
lines, banking institutions, telegraph lines, mined gold-
dust by the millions, discovered quartz ledges, imported
raining machinery, etc., etc., they were pioneers. And
moreover, when in 1877 hundreds of others ran the gaunt-
let of as villainous a lot of desperadoes and highway rob-
bers as ever infested a new mining country, and helped to
chisel out and lay the first blocks of our present grand
superstructure on the foundation already built; who put
their shoulders to the wheel of progress, by riskino- the in-
vestment of large capital, at a time when business enter-
prises were yet but an experiment ; who helped to evolve
order out of chaos, in the doing of which they reposed not
at all times on beds of roses, were they not also pioneers?
Who shall draw the line?
THE SOCIETY OF BLACK HILLS PIONEERS.
At a meeting of Black Hills pioneers held at Deadvvood
on January 8th, 1889, in pursuance of a call of a previous
preliminary meeting, the permanent organization of The
Society of Black Hills Pioneers was effected by the adop-
tion of a constitution and by-laws, and the election of the
following officers: —
President: Thomas H. Russell, Deadwood ; Vice-Presi-
dents : Jack Gray, Terraville; R. B. Hughes, Rapid ; 8am'l
Shankland, Custer; E. G. Dudley, Hot Springs; Frank
38
594 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
Thulen, Minnesela; Jas. Ryan, Sundance; Secretary: L,
F. Whitbeck, Deadwood ; Treasurer: John R. Brennan,
Rapid ; Marshal : A. R. Z. Dawson, Deadwood ; Directors :
C. V. Gardner, Sprina: Valley; John Belding, Deadwood;
Noah Newbanks, Whitewood; George W. Cole, Sturgis ;
S. M. Booth, Custer; Historian ad interim, C. V. Gardner,
Spring Valley.
The aims and objects of the association are clearly set
forth in article first of its constitution, which says : —
"This association shall be called and known as 'The
Society of Black Hills Pioneers.' It is designed to be,
and is, a moral, benevolent, and literary association, and
its objects are: To cultivate social intercourse, form a
more perfect union among its members, and create a fund
for charitable purposes in their behalf; to collect and pre-
serve information, connected with the early settlement of
the country, to perpetuate the memory of those whose
sagacity, energy, and enterprise induced them to settle
in the wilderness, and become the founders of a new
State."
By the rules governing the organization, only those who
came to the Black Hills prior to the 31st of December,
187G, are admitted to membership. At the first annual
meeting of the society held at Deadwood on October 9th,
1889, the names of 153 members had been enrolled, which
number gradually increased until 1891, when there were
220 names on the roster of the society. From that time
the membership fluctuated, some leaving the country,
when in due time their names were stricken from the roll;
other places were left vacant by death. At the last annual
roll-call the secretary reported 213 members in good stand-
ing on the roll, five of whom were honorary members.
At each annual roll-call on the 8th of January, the date
fixed by the Board of Directors for the yearly banquet
and election of oflicers, some, whose lips are forever silent,
fail to respond to the call, some seventy members having
joined the silent majority since its first organization in
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 595
1889. Appended is the death list, as shown b}'^ the records
of the society : —
1889, August 12th, E. McVey.
1890, May 5th, E. Rainwater.
1890, June 25th, 8. M. Booth.
1890, June 25th, W. H. Collins.
1890, November 25th, John A. Swift.
1891, February 19th, Hugh McGovern.
1891, February 19th, Phil. McGuire.
1891, April 1st, F. M. Allen.
1891, April 3d, Chas. Diimphy.
1891, April 8th, C. H. Moulton.
1891, , Henry Benns.
1892, , Singleton Kimmel.
1892, , T. Hopkins.
1892, March 31st, C. F. Thompson.
1892, May 24th, Jas. Carney.
1893, March 16th, J. A. Gaston.
1893, June 2d, R. McLaren.
1893, June 8th, Chas. .
1893, October 15th, Wra. F. Steele.
1893, , Geo. Hacker.
1893, , H. J. Fuller.
1893, October 16th, Peter Hann.
1894, January 2d, Nicholas Sands.
1894, January 2d, David Wolzmuth.
1894, March 9th, Peter O'Neill.
1894, March 24th, Ed. Farnum.
1894, July 3d, Wm. Howard.
1894, December 12th, Peter Koppleton.
1895, January 12th, D. L. Mitchell.
1895, March 10th, Andrew Farrell.
1895, September 6th, P. S. Tetrault.
1895, November — , Wm. B. Franklin.
1895, December — , John Stannus.
1895, , W. L. Dunn.
1895, , John Haltner.
596 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
1896, Jiinuaiy 22d, li. A. Bailey.
1896, February 15th, J. Scott.
1896, April 15th, E. J. Crawford.
1896, July 19th, A. R. Z. Dawson.
1896, August 7th, Mrs. John Manning (Honorary
member).
1896, September 29th, W. Foglesong.
1896, October 18th, Luke McDon.
1896, November 10th, Ed. Murphy.
1896, , J. B. Cheney.
1896, November 17th, B. C. Wood.
1897, April 1st, J. H. Flynn.
1897, April 19th, Jas. Culp.
1897, May 5th, Pat. Casey.
1897, June 13th, Desire LaBesch.
1897, November 19th, VV. M. Flanegan.
1897, November 21st, Jas. Rossiter.
1898, August 11th, John Wiek.
1898, August 24th, Le R. Graves.
1898, September 9th, Thos. Bentley.
1898, January 29th, John Theins.
1898, , Mrs. John Gray (Honorary
member).
This list tells us that the ranks of the earl}' pioneers are
becoming rapidly depleted ; the links which bind them
together by ties of common hardships, are being severed
and removed one by one, and before very long, the last
burnished link of the golden chain will be rudely broken.
From the annual report of the secretary for the year
1898, it appears that, during that year, there were $360.26
disbursed from the funds of the society, for various pur-
poses, the expenditures being for the most part for the
care of the sick, and the funeral expenses of members,
which bespeaks the benefits of the organization.
The annual banquets of the society which are given at
Deadwood on the 8th of January of each year, when, under
the influence of the good cheer, members become delight-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 597
fully remiaiscent, as also the yearly picnics, held on the 8th
of June, alternately at different points throughout the Hills,
are both pronounced exceedingly enjoyable affairs.
In 1890 Thos. H. Russell was succeeded in the presi-
dency of the society by Seth Bullock, who was elected for
two consecutive years, with J. H. Flynn as secretary and
J. A. Gaston as treasurer for both years. A. R. Z. Daw-
son presided from 1892 to 1894; Jas. W. Allen, of Dead-
wood, from 1894 to 1896; John Gray, of Terraville, from
1896 to 1898; J. H. Flynn and D. W. Gillette occupying
the respective positions of secretary and treasurer for the
six consecutive years. In 1898 P. A. Gushurst, of Lead,
was elected president; Paul Rewman, secretary, and D. M.
Gillette, treasurer. In 1899 Geo. V. Ayers, of Deadwood,
the present incumbent of the chair, was elected, with Paul
Rewman, secretary, and D. M. Gillette, treasurer. These
officers, who are representative pioneers of 1874-5-6 stand
for the rank and file of the members of the " Society of
Black Hills Pioneers."
In explanation it may be proper to state that the first
three presidents of the " Society of Black Hills Pioneers "
have been omitted from the accompanying group, for a
reason which will be easily made apparent. When it was
found that in making cut for the group the originals would
have to be more or less mutilated, one of the number had
to be left out, because my word of honor had been given to
return the same intact to the owner. Thus having to omit
one, it was deemed best to omit the three, whose portraits
and sketches appear elsewhere on the pages of this work,
in another connection.
Jas. W. Allen, fourth president of the association, came
to the Black Hills during the latter part of December,
1875, too late to meet with opposition from Uncle Sam's
blue coats, and too early to encounter the hostile Sioux
along the line shortly before they entered upon the sensa-
tional stage of mining development. Mr. Allen, although
born and reared, to almost the verge of young manhood,
598 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
in the staid old Keystone 8tate, was by no means a
stranger to the hap-go-hazard phases of frontier life,
having spent years before coming to the Hills in each of
the now great Western Territories and States of Idaho,
Montana, Colorado, and Wyoming, while they were yet
very young, and may therefore be accounted a typical
pioneer. Upon his arrival in the Black Hills, he first went
to Spring creek, in the vicinity of " Stand-off Bar," where
he remained but a short time, going from there to Rapid
Valley, about the time the Gate City was laid out and
platted. For some reason he was not at all enthusiastic
over the future prospects of the Denver of the Black Hills,
for, although corner lots were to be had at a bargain, he
emphatically refnsed to take a dollar's worth of stock in
the enterprise. He subsequently went to Deadwood, of
which he became a permanent resident in 1877, since which
time he has been intimately identified with the business
interests of his adopted city, in whose future greatness, as
well as the entire Black Hills, he has the most implicit and
abiding faith. Mr. Allen was one of the charter members
of the Society of Black Hills Pioneers, and has, since its
organization, been a faithful and interested worker in its
ranks. The Black Hills has dealt generously and kindly
with James W. Allen, both from a financial and physical
stand-point — especially the latter, as a glance at the
accompanying cut will attest.
John Gray, fifth on the roster of presidents of the
Society of Black Hills Pioneers, emigrated to America
from the north of England — the land of his nativity, when
a young man in his early twenties. Upon landing on the
shores of the " land of the free and the home of the brave,"
he turned his steps towards the setting sun; sojourning for
one year in one of the States of the Middle West (Ohio),
when he followed the Star of Empire westward to Wyoming,
where he remained until 1873. He then decided to try his
1. GKOUGE AYKRS. 2. JAMES \V. ALLEN. 3. JOHN GRAY.
4. P. A. GUbHURST. 5. PAUL REWMAN.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 599
fortune in South America, and journeyed thither, but,
after spending a year among the pampas and siivas, the
boa-constrictors and anacondas of that tropical, volcanic
region, he returned to Carbon, Wyoming, in 1874, when
the Black Hills first began to attract public attention.
In 1876 he came to the Black Hills from Cheyenne,
Wyoming, with a large party of gold seeking adven-
turers — among whom was Wild Bill, who had out-
fitted at that point. Although Indians galore were
seen along the route, the train was not molested, the In-
dians, doubtless, being afraid to encounter so large an
aggregation of well-armed white men, as well they might
be, if there were many of the Wild Bill stamp in the out-
fit. Mr. Gray went directly to the northern Hills, where
he has since been extensively engaged in mining operations
on or near the great northern " gold belt," making Terra-
ville his base of operations. Mr. Gray has also been iden-
tified with the Society of Black Hills Pioneers since its first
orjjanization, and is regarded as one of its most efiBcient
members.
Next, and sixth on the list of presidents of the Society
of Black Hills Pioneers, is P. A. Gushurst, a son of the
great Empire State, who Avas born in Rochester, on the
banks of the famous Genesee, whose valley became cele-
brated for the production of the best wheat in the wide
world. By the way, the writer of this sketch was born
and bred within twenty-five miles of that great flour man-
ufacturing city, and it is now recalled with a thrill of
amusement that, more than once did she, with a gay bevy
of equally crude and unsophisticated village maidens, take
a trip down through the locks of the Genesee Valley Canal,
on a towboat, to the metropolis and trade center of Monroe
County, to see the Falls, and the " Elephant," before the
advent of a railroad in that region — but this is a digression
and difficult though it is, I must refrain from indulging
farther in impertinent personal reminiscences.
600 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
With a good deal of daring and enterprise for one so
young, and doubtless filled with boyish dreams, P. A. Gus-
hurst, when a lad of only sixteen, left his native city to
seek his fortune amid the then unmeasured possibilities of
the " Great West." The young adventurer stopped first
at Omaha, then a border town, and the chief supply depot,
for the Rocky Mountain region to the West, at a time
when prairie chickens and quails were plentiful thereabouts
and deer and antelope were yet to be seen among the
adjacent timbered bluffs, where, having secured lucrative
employment, he remained six years: one year in a grocery
store, one year as time-keeper and four years in the
machine shops of the Union Pacific Railway.
On May 1st, 1876, he left Omaha, and came via Chey-
enne and Fort Laramie over the dangerous trail to the
Black Hills, arriving at Custer, on May 24th, and Dead-
wood, June 1st, 1876, since which time he has been an ex-
ceedingly and uncommonly active business man. He first
started business in Deadwood iu a tent, then purchased the
lot on Main street, now occupied by J. Goldberg's store,
and built the frame store building known as the Big Horn
Store. In August of the same year he moved to Lead
where he has lived and carried on business since, during
which time he has occupied numerous positions of honor
and trust.
He was elected Recorder of the Gold Run Gulch, suc-
ceeding Thos. Carey, the discoverer of placer gold on that
stream ; was elected one of the three trustees of Lead, at
the first Citizens' Meeting held in 1877; was elected
School Treasurer, and served six years as a member of the
Board of Education; was a member of the first Council of
the Municipality of Lead, and was elected as its Mayor in
1898. For many years Mr. Gushurst has been a director
in the First National Bank of Deadwood, also in the First
National Bank of Lead. He was chairman of the Lead
Town-site Company in the litigation with the Homestake
Mining Company on the question affecting the validity of
2 ?;
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LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
(501
the title of the city to the surface of the ground which it
covers, and after its amicable settlement was appointed
with Earnest May and Cyrus H. Enos, trustees to deed
the property to the citizens.
Besides his extensive mercantile business, Mr. Gushurst
has been, and is, largely engaged in mining enterprises and
was at one time an owner in the Little Bonanza, the now
famous Tornado, and other mining properties in the great
refractory ore " gold belt." Later, with John Wolzmuth,
he purchased the Squaw creek mining claims and was the
first to ship ore from that section of the country for treat-
ment. In his business and mining ventures Mr. Gushurst
has been eminently successful, and deservedly so, having
by industry, perseverance, and sagacity, acquired a hand-
some fortune.
It is interesting to note that the marriage of P. A.
Gushurst to Miss Josephine Ackey, in 1877, was the first
marriage solemnized in Lead.
The picture accompanying this sketch is a reproduction
of a portion of the old store building in which Mr. Gushurst
opened business in Lead in 1877, and a group of early
pioneers. The venerable landmark is being torn down by
its proprietor, to make room for a large brick and stone
block, which is to cover an area of 50x95 feet.
During the winter of 1876-7 Mr. Gushurst cut the trees
<nnd macfe the shingles for the roof of the old structure,
many of which, after having been exposed to the elements
for twenty-two winters and summers, were found to be in
a good state of preservation, some of them being carried
away by the citizens to be preserved as relics.
The group, for the major part, is composed of pioneers
of 1876, among whom will readily be recognized P. A.
Gushurst, standing in the center at the left of the upright
post, holding in his right hand something that looks won-
derfully like a glass of the foaming beverage, while leaning
against the same post on the right, without any of the
bevera<re, is Emil Faust. The second tigure to the left of
602
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Mr. Faust and to the right of the picture, holding his hat
in his left hand, is recognized as Jack Daly; next, holding
a bottle in his left hand, is George Beeraer ; next comes
Frank Abt, also holding a bottle of the beverage, and at
his left is Earnest May with a glass of the frothy fluid in
his left hand. The lady in the group is Miss Maude Faust,
and an honorary member of the " Society of Black Hills
Pioneers." The other figures composing the group will
doubtless be easily recognized l)y all of the early pioneers
as well as by many who are not pioneers.
George Vincent Ayres, seventh president of the Society
of Black Hills' Pioneers, was born among the rugged hills
of the old Keystone State, on November 1st, 1852, and
when a boy of five years, was taken by his parents to
Illinois, from whence they moved to Missouri in 1858, and
thence to Kansas in 1859. In 1860, they removed to
Nebraska, locating on a farm about sixteen miles from
Beatrice, where they remained until 1866 when they moved
into the town of Beatrice to give their family of growing
children the benefit of a school, where George received the
first rudiments of education.
In 1870 George Vincent, at the age of eighteen years, first
asserted his individuality and became a factor in the busi-
ness world, by entering a drug store at Beatrice, where he
remained six years and became an ade[)t pharmacist.
Early in 1876, when the Black Hills gold excitement was
prevalent throughout the land, he caught the infection,
resigned his position in the drug store, and on March 1st,
1876, embarked via Cheyenne and Fort Laramie for the new
gold fields, arriving on the 25th of March at Custer, where
he remained until May, when he went with the tide to Dead-
wood, where was taken sick with the mountain fever.
Upon his recovery in July he returned to Custer where
he remained until the fall of 1877, when he returned to
Deadwood. Although coming to the Hills a tenderfoot,
LAST HUNTIxNG GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 603
he had none of the terderfoot fatuity. Becoming readily
assimilated with the conditions of the new mining camp,
he at once entered extensively, into the hardware busi-
ness, which is still carried on under the name of the
Ayres & Wardman Hardware Co., of which he is president
and general manager. He has also occupied various other
important positions, both civil and political, during his resi-
dence in the Hills. He was Receiver of Public Moneys of
the United States Land Office at Rapid City during the
Harrison administration ; has been president of the Busi-
ness Men's Protective Association of Deadwood; was chair-
man of the Lawrence County Republican Central Commit-
tee, and is now president of the Society of Black Hills
Pioneers.
Mr. Ayres has a long and honorable record as a member
of the Order of Free Masons, but not having a key to the
sublime mysteries of that ancient order, I am utterly un-
able to trace intelligently the various degrees by which he
has risen to his present high standing among the fraternity.
I am told, however, that he became a Master Mason in
Beatrice liodge No. 26, located at Beatrice, Nebraska, on
June 27th, 1874, and affiliated with Deadwood Lodge No.
7 on November 27th, 1882; was elected Grand Master of
the Grand Lodge of South Dakota on June 12th, 1889.
He became a Royal Arch Mason in Livingston Chapter
No. 10, located at Beatrice, Nebraska, on July 13th, 1885,
and affiliated with Dakota Chapter No. 3, located at Dead-
wood, October 8th, 1880; became a Knights Templar and
Knight of Malta in Dakota Commandery No. 1, located at
Deadwood, on February 2d, 1881 ; received the degrees in
the A. & A. S. R., Southern Jurisdiction of the United
States, in the Golden Belt Lodge of Perfection No. 5,
April lltb, 1893. He crossed the burning sands of the A.
A. O. N. M. S. in the Naja Temple located at Deadwood,
April 14th, 1893, and was anointed High Priest in the
Grand Council of Anointed High Priests of South Dakota on
June 11th, 1896, — all of which is a sealed book tothe writer.
604 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
During his term of Grand Master he enforced a resolu-
tion adopted by the Grand Lodge, and drove the so-called
" Cerneau Rite" — whatever that may be — out of the
State, and also founded the Grand Charity and Widows'
and Orphans' Funds.
Paul Rewman, now secretary of the Society of Black
Hills Pioneers, was born in England, of German parentage,
in 1855.
In 1870, when a boy of fifteen, Paul left his native
land, and crossed the billowy deep to New York, from
whence he journeyed to the Southwest, and engaged in the
stock business for several years on the great cattle ranges
of New Mexico, Texas, and Arizona.
In 1874, he went to Colorado, where he remained until
stricken with gold fever in June, 1876, when he started
with a party via Cheyenne, Wyoming, for the Black Hills,
arriving in Deadwood on July 20th of that year, when the
gold excitement was at its zenith, where he has continuously
resided since.
Although young on coming to the Hills, Mr. Rewman
was not altogether an unfledged tenderfoot, having already
mastered the rudiments of Western life on the plains of the
southwest and profited doubtless by his experience. At
any rate he cautiously avoided the pitfalls of the big min-
ing camp, and made the most of his opportunities. He
was made Deputy Sheriff of Lawrence County under John
Manning in 1878 or 1879, serving in that capacity two
years.
He carried the first mail from Deadwood to the Belle
Fourche river at a time when Indians were infesting the
northern border, and when his personal safety depended
upon the utmost caution.
From 1881 to 1891, he was in sole charge of the affairs
of the Black Hills Telephone Company, since which date
he has had the full management of the Deadwood Electric
Lighting System, in which he owns a large interest.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 605
With no original capital, but plenty of vim and push,
Mr. Rewman has acquired a handsome competence, far
beyond that attained by the average of our early Black
Hills pioneers. By mathematical calculation, basing the
estimate on his probable actual weight at the time, he had,
on reaching Cheyenne en route for the Black Hills, about
$40.00 in his pocket, to outfit, take him to Deadwood, and
start him on the high road to fortune. Let us see. One
hundred and sixty pounds at twenty-five cents per pound
produces just $40.00. Mr. Rewman has been a member of
the Society of Black Hills Pioneers since its organization,
and the secretary of the association for the two years last
past.
BLACK HILLS PIONEER AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF 1877.
Having in view the organization of the above named
society, an informal meeting was held in Deadwood on
January 26th, 1895, at which about forty of those who
arrived in the Black Hills during the year 1877, and a few
who arrived prior to that year but were interested in the
organization of the society, were present. Hon. Granville
G. Bennett was called to the chair, and H. J. Ainley acted
as secretary. After the object of the meeting was ex-
plained by Col. Hiram F. Hale, who, with Porter War-
ner and F. J. Washabaugh, earnestly advocated the organi-
zation of the society, a motion prevailed for the appoint-
ment of a committee to draft a constitution and by-laws,
to be submitted to a full meeting called for January 30th,
1895.
At the meeting of January 30th, 1895, a permanent
organization was effected by the adoption of a constitu-
tion and by-laws, and the election of the following officers,
viz. : —
President, Hon. Granville G.Bennett; Vice-President,
Col. Hiram F. Hale; Secretary, H. J. Ainley; Treasurer,
Frank J. Washabaugh; Historian, Wm. Warner; Mar-
shal, Homer E. Moore; Directors, Wm. Allinson, John
606 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Herman, and Willis H. Bonham, with an original member-
ship of 124.
This society was organized, as indicated by its name, for
the double purpose of perpetuating a bond of union between
those who first came to the Black Hills during the year
1877, for the mutual benefit and enjoyment of its mem-
bers, and collecting facts and events relating to their
history, and doubtless as 1877 was the beginning of an
important history-making epoch, much invaluable informa-
tion will be gathered and preserved through its efforts,
which otherwise would be lost and forgotten.
Among the pleasant features of this society are its an-
nual picnics, which, it is believed, are held during the
early summer months, whenever the weather is auspicious
without regard to a fixed date.
There have been eleven deaths of members of the so-
ciety since its organization, among whom are Porter
Warner, who was Vice-President of the association at the
time of his death in February, 1899, and John Herman, a
director.
The original officers chosen have been retained from
year to year, with but few exceptions. The present chief
officers of the society are: Hon. Granville G. Bennett,
President; Frank McLaughlin, Esq., Secretary; Frank J.
Washabaugh, Treasurer; Dr. H. Stein, Historian.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. <)07
CHAPTER XL.
MEADE COUNTY.
Prior to 1889 all that portion of the Bhick Hills now
embraced within the boundary lines of Meade County
formed a part of the original territory of Lawrence County,
whose lines extended nearly ninety miles from east to west,
but by an act of the Territorial Legislature of that year
the unwieldy organization was cut in twain from north to
south near its geographical center, and the eastern sub-
division created into Meade County. By this subdivision
Lawrence County was separated into two sections differing
widely in topography and material resources — the one
comprising the major part of the open prairie land of the
county, stretching away eastward to the North Fork of the
Chevenne river; the other, all the rich mineral-bearing
and heavily timbered region of the west.
The new county created by the Act contains some of the
finest agricultural and grazing land to be found in the
Black Hills. It is well watered by numerous streams
whose headwaters are gathered from multitudes of springs
which issue forth from the granite and metamorphic rock
hit^h up among the mountains on the west, and traverse
the county to its eastern limits on the Belle Fourche river.
Chief among these streams are the Bear Butte, Alkali, Elk,
Box Elder, and their numerous small tributaries. These,
supplemented by a bountiful precipitation — caused, in part,
doubtless, by the proximity of the heavily timbered region
of the Hills along its western boundary — render the soil
peculiarly adapted to farming and stock-raising.
With an unlimited range covered with rich grasses which
cure readily where they grow and retain all their nutritious
608 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
qualities for winter feeding, together with the mildness of
the climate, make the raising of stock on a large or small
scale a profitable industry in Meade County, which, it is
conceded by stockmen, produces some of the fattest, sleek-
est cattle to be found on the ranges of the Black Hills.
The streams draining the area of Meade County are heav-
ily fringed with several different varieties of timber — elm,
box elder, and other trees — while along the foot-hills is found
an abundant growth of spruce and pine, furnishing an am-
ple supply of timber for fuel and other purposes. There
are several large sawmills located in Meade County which
produce hundreds of thousands of feet of lumber annually
from the pine timbers cut from the Hills along its western
limits.
Primarily the cause of separation appears to have been
the expense and hardships imposed upon the people of the
eastern portion of the original county, by the extreme
remoteness of the seat of county government, where all
legal business had necessarily to be transacted. A second-
ary cause perhaps Was the accretion of taxation for the
maintenance of the courts, whose time was for the most
part employed in adjucating mineral cases, in which the
people of the agricultural districts had no interest, and
from which no benefit accrued to them.
For several years prior to the segregation, they labored
hard to bring about a division, leaving no stone unturned
to accomplish that result. Finally, having the requisite
population to entitle them to such action, they left the
home roof, at the time, and in the manner before stated,
and set up a county government of their own, burdened with
a heavy legacy of debt. Naturally when they came to the
parting of the ways, Lawrence County was loth to have her
rebellious people go, but, smarting under the accumulated
burdens of taxation, without representation, and, perhaps,
an unequal distribution of the spoils of office, they would
not be stayed, and the outcome was the creation of Meade
County — thus named after Fort Meade. To the untiring
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. G09
and indefatigable efforts of John D. Patton, who was a
member of the Legislature at the time, more than to any
other person is due the credit for the passage of the Act
creating Meade County.
The first commissioners of the county, appointed by the
Act, were Max Hoehu, Daniel P. Flood, and W. C. Burton,
who were charged with the especial duty of making all
necessary provisions for holding an election, for choosing
county officers and selecting county seat by popular ballot.
On May 7th, 1889, the election was hehl at the different
voting precincts of the county, resulting in the election of
the following officers: —
Commissioners, Samuel H. Martin, Chairman ; Bland
Herring, Elliott Nichols ; Sheriff, W . F. L. Suter ; Treas-
urer, E. F. Huffman; Eegister of Deeds, Fred Dunham;
Auditor, E. C. Lane; States Attorney, C. C. Polk; Su-
perintendent of Schools, Lulu Sehell; Survej^or, H. E.
Palmer; Coroner, Dr. J. B. Cheney; County Physician,
Dr. W. G. Smith; County Judge, Wm. Cable; Clerk of
Courts, Max Hoehn, appointed by court. These officers
were to serve until the next general election or until their
successors were elected and qualified.
The rival candidates for capital honors were Sturgis and
Tilford, the former capturing the plum by a handsome
majority of the popular vote, in consideration of which the
city o-uaranteed to the county the sum of $15,000.00 to-
words the erection of a courthouse. In partial fulfillment
of this obligation, the Meade County Land and Improve-
ment Company, of which J. J. Davenport was president
and Max Hoehn, secretary, purchased an entire block of
tyround on the elevated plateau in the western part of the
city and deeded the same to the county for a courthouse
site.
In the adjustment of the credits and debits of Lawrence
County ,'at a joint meeting of their respective commissioners
there was apportioned to Meade County twenty-two and
one-tenth per cent of the entire indebtedness of Lawrence
39
610 THE liLACK HILLS; OK,
County, said apportionment ^eing based upon the assessed
valuation of the county in 1878. To guarantee the pay-
ment of its obligations, Meade County issued to Lawrence
County the following bonds, to wit: $107,500 five per
cent bonds, and $24,500.00 ten per cent bonds, upon which
the interest coupons have been regularly paid since their
issuance. In this connection it appears that, in issuing
bonds to refund the indebtedness of Lawrence County, its
commissioners had overstepped the limits prescribed by
law, which excess the county subsequently sought to
repudiate.
Litigation ensued, and, after pendiug in the courts for
several years, the question was finally settled by a decision
of the United States Supreme Court, holding Lawrence
County for the full face of the bonds. Meade County
meanwhile had refused to pay its proportion of the
questionable bonds until the matter was settled by the
courts.
Soon after the complete organization of the county, its
commissioners directed their attention to the adjustment of
the school districts to the new order of things ; the repair-
infy of old, and the laying out and building new roads and
bridges throughout the county, for which considerable
sums were expended. Finally in 189G, the courthouse, the
crowning glory of the county and its capital city, was
completed at a cost for grounds, building, and equipments
of nearly $26,000, of which Sturgis paid $15,000 as per
agreement.
The building, which stands conspicuous on the elevated
site chosen for it, is an imposing three-storied structure of
white cut stone, handsomely ornamented with pink sand-
stone, and, from the iron-barred windows of the basement
(which is used for a jail), to the top of the rounded dome,
is a model of substantial and dignified architecture, strongly
suo-o-estive of the immutability of the " blind goddess,"
who is supposed to preside within. In internal arrange-
ment and finish it is perfect, and its appointments complete
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
611
ill every detail. The building is heated by furnaces in the
basement, and every office and room throughout is pro-
vided with telephone, water, and electric service, in short,
it is conceded to be the most complete courthouse in the
Black Hills, as well as the most costly.
Exclusive of the bonds inherited from Lawrence County
the total indebtedness of Meade County is $50,000, its
assessed valuation $1,600,000, and its population in 1898,
5,000.
612 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
STORGIS.
Sturgis, the administrative center of Meade County, is
admirably located in a wide basin in the valley of Bear
Biitte creek, snugly embraced by two confluents of the
stream, a mile and one-half west of Fort Meade, and about
fifteen miles by railway northeast of Deadwood. The bust-
ling, enterprising young city had its origin twenty years
ago, soon after the location of Fort Meade in August, 1878,
on the spot where it has since grown and flourished.
Among its founders were Major J. C. Wilcox, J. W.
Rodebank, B. G. Caulfield, Judge Dudley, Arthur Buckbee,
J. W. Caldwell, and Major H. M. Lazelle, then in com-
mand at Fort Meade, who, anticipating fabulous values in
corner lots, as soon as the location of the post became a
fixed fact, appeared with compass and chain, selected and
laid out a town-site, and named it Sturgis in honor of Col.
S. D. Sturgis, later in command of the garrison at Fort
Meade.
The original plat, containing eighty acres, was covered
with what was called " Valentine Scrip," through the
agency of Barney G. Caulfield, on October 25th, 1878.
Subsequently, this questionable title to the public lands
resulted in a conflict of interests, which caused considerable
litigation and much friction between the town-site company
and lot-holders, which difficulty was, however, ultimately
settled by the Secretary of the Interior in favor of the
company.
To the original plat of eighty acres numerous additions
have since been made, providing ample space for future
expansion, viz. : The Fort Meade addition of forty acres,
platted by Col. S. D. Sturgis, August 16th, 1880; the Ash
Extension of 120 acres, on July 7th, 1883; the McMillan
Extension of 160 acres, on October 20th, 1883; Bosworth's
Addition of forty acres, platted by C. C. Moody, July 9th,
1884 ; the Rodebank Addition of forty acres, platted by
J. W. Rodebank, November 11th, 1884; Dudley & Cald-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 613
well's Addition of forty acres, in February, 1885; Patton's
First and Second Additions of forty acres each, on July 15th
and Jul}'^ 16th, 1886, respectively; Comstock's Addition
of forty acres, July 19th, 1886; Fairview Addition of
sixty acres, June 11th, 1887; Rodebank's Second Addi-
tion of forty acres, June 15th, 1887; Schnell's Addition,
July 16th, 1887; McMillan's Southwestern and Southern
Addition of eighty acres, August 2d, 1887 ; Franklin's
Addition ; and perhaps others.
The first to settle on the site of Sturgis was Geo. Bos-
worth, who, in the summer of 1877, settled on the ground
which is now in part Bosworth's Addition to Sturgis. A
Mrs. Beck, also, prior to the location of the town-site, took
up a piece of ground, which was subsequently purchased b}'
Wm. McMillan, on a part of which his residence now
stands.
The first settlers in the vallej'^ of Bear Butte creek, in
the vicinity of Sturgis, were Wm. Fletcher and Wm. Myers,
both of whom came to the valley in July, 1876, and located
the ranches upon which they now respectively reside, the
former a mile and a half below Fort Meade, the latter an
equal distance further down the creek. Until the summer of
1877 these two men were the only settlers in the region for
miles around, and were constantly exposed to the scant
mercy of the roving bands of Indians, who were, at that
time, depredating the Hills from center to circumference,
and Bear Butte valley did not escape their notice.
In August, 1876, a pony express rider, while en route
from Fort Pierre to Crook City with the mail, was mur-
dered by the savages, who cut open the mail pouch,
mutilated and threw its contents to the winds, then rode
away with the horse of their dead victim. Mr. Fletcher,
who was attracted to the spot by the unusual spectacle of
a profusion of white papers lying scattered about under a
tree, discovered the body, which he buried as best he could
on a spot near the present residence of H, Carroll, where
his ashes still repose. Although Mr. Fletcher kept an
614 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
experienced scout constantly employed at a salary of fifty
dollars per month in patrolling the surrounding country
to warn the two lone men against surprise, the Indians
stole in one morning, in March, 1877, just at the glimmer-
ing of the dawn, while Mr. Fletcher, Mr. Myers, and the
scout were profoundly sleei)ing in their tent, and applied
the torch to forty tons of hay stacked a short distance
away.
On emerging from his tent a little later, Mr. Fletcher
proceeded to a slight elevation of ground and scanned the
valley up and down, to make sure that all was well, when
he beheld the fruits of his toil going up in flame and smoke
and about a dozen Indians circling and dancing gleefully
around the burning pile. He prudently retreated to the
tent, when the three inmates hastily put themselves on a
defensive war footing, and awaited the denouement, but
they were not molested. The band then rode off down the
valley and burned eighty tons of baled hay stacked on the
Myers' ranch below.
It is also related that during the same year Major Wile ox
employed men to cut hay north of Bear Butte, where he
had located a temporary ranch, which one day was raided
by a band of Indians, who killed his cattle and two men
and a woman, emigrants who had taken refuge at the ranch.
Another man fled for safety to a dugout, in the face of a blufl"
near by, and kept them at bay with his trusty Sharp's rifle.
The first store on the site of Sturgis was built and opened
by Capt. Harmon, in September, 1878, in the building
which yet stands on the northwest corner of Main and First
streets, now occupied by John Scott as a second-hand store.
Mr. Harmon opened business with an extensive stock of
general merchandise, including everything from a glass of
*' Early Times" whisky to a paper of pins, and, it goes
without saying, that he transacted a flourishing business.
The second store was opened during the same fall by Wm.
McMillan, who followed closely upon the heels of Capt.
Harmon with a general stock of dry goods, groceries, boots
LAST HUxNTINU GROUxXD OF THE DAKOTAHS. *)15
and shoes, clothing, etc. As a matter of fact Mr. McMillan
might have been the pioneer merchant of Sturgis had he
no^ unselfishly aided Capt. Harmon in the erection of his
store instead of first building his own.
The first hotel, in the common acceptation of the term,
was opened by Chas. Elsener in the veritable building now
known as the Charles Hotel, on the south side of Main
street, in the early part of October, 1878. However, on
the 26th of September, 1878, Mr. John Scollard opened a
restaurant and lodging rooms in a building which stood on
the ground now occupied by Benevolent Hall, on the south-
east^corner of Main and Second streets, which he conducted
as a house of entertainment pending the construction of
his hotel. On the 2lst of January, 1879, he opened the
Sheridan House, a commodious two-story structure, on the
north side of Main street, where, for the past twenty winters
and summers, he has enacted the role of " genial host."
In the winter of 1878-9, a regular post office was estab-
lished at Sturgis with Charles Collins as first postmaster.
Mr. Collins was succeeded by Major J. C. Wilcox, who
held the position from 1879 to 1883.
While these business enterprises were soon supplemented
by other kinds of trade and traffic, perhaps equally
worthy of note, this especial reference is made to the first
ventures because they led the procession out on the broad
hicrhway to the city's present prosperity. Owing to the
comparatively unsettled and undeveloped condition of the
rich agricultural lands, comprising the eastern portion of
what was then Lawrence County, the growth of Sturgis,
durincr the Hrst few years of its history, was somewhat
discouragingly slow, much of its trade being derived from
the garrison at Fort Meade.
In 1883, however, the memorable year in which the
great flood laid waste the valleys of the north, and nearly
blotted Deadwood from the map of the Black Hills, the
town shot up like a sky-rocket, nearly doubling its popula-
tion and number of business houses within a year. Sturgis,
616 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
though not in the least rejoicing at, yet hoping to profit by,
the terrible disaster to the capital city, which, it was
thought, could never recuperate in its native contracted
valley, expected, yea, longed to embrace within her ex-
pansive arms, a large percentage of the businessless and
homeless population of the stricken city, and to that end,
opened wide her hospital)le gates. But, alas! " the best
laid plans o' mice and men," — you know the rest.
Sturgis did not properly estimate the metal of which
Dead wood was composed, nor the strength of its attach-
ment to the gold-laden hills and valleys of its birthplace.
Pure air and plenty of space counts for little in the
balance against gold.
Although the influx of population did not materialize to
any great extent at that time, Sturgis maintained its status,
and pursued the even tenor of its way, until it received a
new impetus in 1888 by the arrival of the F. E. & M. V.
R. R., which, although its station was built at a provoking
distance from the center of business, added much to its
commercial importance, since which time its growth has
been steady and permanent.
On March 15lh, 1886, the town was reorganized, and the
following officers duly elected: Board of Trustees, Max
Hoehn, President, J. J. Davenport and John Farley ;
Marshal, W. F. L. Sontor ; Clerk, Treasurer, Assessor and
City Justice of the Peace, O. W. Jevvett.
This organization continued in force until June, 1888,
when the town was incorporated into a city by an Act
of the Territorial Legislature, and separated into three
wards, each ward being represented by two members to the
Common Council, whose first meeting was held on June
22d, 1888. The first officers of the new municipality were:
Mayor, John T. Potter; Aldermen, J. C. McMillan, W. W.
Sabin, Max Blatt, Lewis Abrams, W. G. Smith, and John
Wenkie ; City Auditor, Max Hoehn; City Attorney, C.
C. Polk; Treasurer, J. J. Davenport; Chief of Police,
Pat Flavin; City Justice, B. F. Stearns.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 617
PUBLIC SCHOOLS.
Early in the spring of 1879, a district of the public
schools of Lawrence County was organized for Sturgis,
and in April of that year the first pubhc school was opened
by Mrs. Nellie Rodebank with an attendance of ten pupils.
This first term was taught in a small, unfinished board
shanty that stood on Lazalle street opposite Second avenue.
During the summer of 1879 a log cabin that stood almost
directly opposite the board shanty was secured for school
purposes, in which the following teachers were successively
employed: Miss Ada C. Hall of Bear Butte Valley, for the
fall term of 1879 ; Mrs. Robt. Neill, the spring and sum-
mer term of 1880 ; and Mrs. Bartholomew, wife of a
Methodist minister, for the fall term of that year.
During the year 1881 the first public school building of
the district, a small one-story frame structure, was erected
on or near the site now occupied by the courthouse. The
first teacher in the new building was Miss Clara Barber,
who was succeeded by Miss Kate Doyle (now Mrs. C. B.
Harris of Galena). In 1882 the frame building was moved
from the hill to a site secured by the board on Sherman
street, nearly opposite the present home of Wesley A.
Stuart, when, to accommodate the rapidly increasing at-
tendance of pupils, its capacity was enlarged by an addi-
tion thereto. For several subsequent years the school was
under the supervision of Professor H. H. Lorrimer, who
was succeeded by Professor B. A. Tjder, whom the wn'iter
knew well and favorably, having met him often in connec-
tion with educational work.
In 1888 the present school building, a fine two-story brick
structure of four departments, was erected, in which Prof.
Tyler continued his work until 1895, when he was suc-
ceeded by the present incumbent. Prof , Chas. W. Young.
According to the testimony of those who are in a position
to know and are competent to judge Prof. Young has dur-
ing his supervision brought the school up to a high plane
618 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
of excellence, having, since he has been at the helm, gradu-
ated two classes from the school with honor to its members,
which fact, of itself, tells more eloquently than mere
words of the competency and ability of their instructor.
The brick building finally proving inadequate for the ac-
commodation of the pupils, a one-story frame building was
subsequently erected on the school grounds, at an aggregate
cost, for the two buildings, including sites, of $13,000.00.
The buildings are admirably located in the western part of
the city, at the lower extremity of a sightly eminence,
which gradually slopes towards the east, rendering the
school easy of access to children and teachers. The num-
ber of pupils enrolled for the year beginning September,
1858, is 325, and the total indebtedness of the district is
$9,250.35. .
CHURCHES OF STURGIS.
The first church edifice erected in Sturgis was built by
the Catholic society in 1882, on an elevated plateau in the
western part of the city. The site for this modest little
frame structure was donated to the society by Judge Ash,
then, as now, a resident of Sturgis. The society has grown
since then almost beyond the capacity of the building, and
a more commodious structure will, doubtless, soon have to
be provided.
A little to the eastward of the church, on the same com-
manding eminence, is located the Catholic St. Martin's
Academy, established through the unremitting labors of
Rev. Father Rosen in 1888. The buildings of this excel-
lent institution now consist of two elegant three-storied
structures built of light gray sandstone, handsomely trim-
med with red sandstone, mined from the quarries of the
hills adjacent to the city. The stone material for these
buildings was procured free of charge, it is said, from
quarries belonging to Judge Ash. Aided by liberal dona-
tions of lots in different localities of the town, by citizens
of Sturgis, Father Rosen selected and purchased the site
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. ()19
and began the construction of the buildings early in the
spring of 1888. In May of that year tive Benedictine
Sisters, of whom sister Angela, the present Mother Sup-
erior, was one, arrived in Sturgis from Yankton, having
been sent by Right Rev. Martin Marty, Bishop of the
Diocese, at the request of Father Rosen, to take charge of
the school. In this connection, it may not be impertinent
to state that these five sisters had left Switzerland in 1887,
crossed the mighty deep and came to Yankton, South
Dakota, where they spent an entire year in trying to master
the difficulties of the English vernacular, and its pronun-
ciation, preparatory to entering upon their life's noble
work.
On reaching Sturgis no time was lost in beginning the
work of building up a Catholic school. A building that
stood on ground near the present residence of Max Hoehn,
was secured, and a school opened with an attendance of
from fifteen to twenty pupils during the first term, and, by
the way, the first pupil secured by the Sisters was Miss
Carrie Francis, now Mrs. H. E. Perkins, wife of the
cashier of the Meade County Bank. During the last week
of December, 1889, the first building of the institution
though not yet fully completed was occupied by the sisters
as a permanent home, and subsequently, the lower story of
the second structure was finished and equipped for school
purposes. In 1898 this latter building, which, in material
and external construction, is an almost exact counterpart,
from foundation stone to gabled roof, of the first, was
built up and completed, according to the original plan of
the architect.
This institution, which has acquired a wide reputation for
excellence of instruction and salutary discipline, is numer-
ously attended each year by pupils not only from all sec-
tions of the Hills, but from different parts of this and
other States. Within its secluded walls numerous orphaned
and half-orphaned children, find safe and comfortable
homes, secure from all worldly allurements, under the
620 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
tender guidance, yet firm discipline of the devoted, self-
sacrificing sisters. There are usually in attendance at the
institution from fifty to sixty day pupils, from ninety to
100 boarders, and twenty orphans who make it a permanent
home.
METHODIST CHURCH.
The Methodist Church began its religious work at a very
early date in the annals of Sturgis, and appears to have
been the first to organize a society though not the first to
build a church edifice in the new town. Its history is but
a repetition of the story of the battles of all the earlier
religious organizations of the Hills with the -problem of
devising ways and means to build a house of worship.
Away back in the fall of 1878, when Sturgis was in its
swaddling clothes, a Sunday school was organized, and held
first from house to house at the homes of its members,
alternately.
The necessity for more permanent accommodations soon
becoming apparent, a movement was set on foot to raise
money for the purchase of a site and the erection of a
building. Through the eflbrts of Mr. Calvin Duke, says
the church record, a fund was raised among those in sym-
pathy with the movement, and two lots, located near the
present residence of Mr. Flavin, on Sherman street, were
purchased, and a small building erected thereon, which
for a time was used jointly for Sunday school and monthly
church services, by Elder Williams. Later, Rev. Ira
Wakefield, one of the pioneer Black Hills missionaries,
held alternate services at Sturgis and Crook City. One
Sunday in 1880, while the school was in session, the build-
ing, unfortunately or fortunately, as one looks at it, took
fire and was burned to the ground, when for a while ser-
vices were held in the old public school building near the
present courthouse.
In 1881 the ground now occupied by Benevolent Hall,
was purchased by the society and the two lots on Sherman
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS.
621
Street were exchanged for two lots on Main street, and a
parsonage commenced, for which the work and material
was domited. In 1887-8, the property on Main street was
gold and the present Methodist church on Cedar street was
built.
The resident pastors of the church since 1881, were:
Rev. Bartholomew, first resident pastor; Rev. Victor
Charrion, for two years; Rev. W. D. Atwater, for three
years; Rev. F. E. Lymer, for two years; Revs. T. F. J.
Follenbee, Shambough, and G. C. Ulmer, each remaining
one year. In 1893 Rev. Atwater returned and during his
second pastorate the church was enlarged and improved.
In 1895 he was succeeded by Rev. W. J. Pyle, who still
watches over the spiritual welfare of the church and
jealously guards his flock, to keep them in the straight and
narrow way.
The Presbyterian Church entered the religious field at a
much later date, and established itself under far more
favorable auspices. Its first society was organized in the
summer of 1886, and, during the same year, both the
church and parsonage were built by Kev. J.Logan Sample,
and by him donated to the society — burdened with an in-
cumbrance of only $550,00 on the parsonage, — which
oblicration was assumed by the society and paid in annual
payments. In the spring of 1887 the building was dedi-
cated Rev. W. S. Peterson, now of Lead, preaching
the dedication sermon. The first pastor of the church was
Rev. Eckols, who remained in charge two years, when he
was successively followed by Revs. Nelson, Toby, Scroggs,
and Prugh. In 1898 Rev. E. G. Wright was installed as
permanent pastor. The society has a neat and commodi-
ous house of worship, fitted out with electric incandescent
liahts, and in its recent new coat of paint presents a very
tasteful external appearance.
The St. Thomas Episcopal Society was organized in
1887, and first held services in the old Sturgis Opera
House. Its present church edifice - situated on Howard
Q22 THE BLACK HII.LS; Oil,
street and Junction avenue, was built m 1892, and conse-
crated by Bishop Hare in 1893. All this was not accom-
plished without a good deal of hard labor and much self-
sacrifice on the part of its members, but the details of the
story of their struggles to build and maintain the church
may, perhaps, as well remain a matter of unwritten history.
Rev. North Tumraon, its present recter, came to Sturgis in
1893, to assume charge of the work, and to his labors and
earnest devotion, aided by the unstinted generosity of one
whose hands will never again open responsive to its needs
(Dr. Sanderson), is largely due the present existence of
the church.
The first newspaper published in Sturgis was the Sturgis
Weekly Record, established by Messrs. Moody & Elliott
in July, 1893. The paper, which is now under the busi
ness control and editorial management of C. C. Moody,
the first named member of the original firm, is a refresh-
ingly spicy, critical and somewhat caustic sheet conducted,
politically, in the interests of the " G. O. P."
The nucleus of the Sturgis Fire Department was formed
by the organization of the Hook and Ladder Company on
January 17th, 1887, with H. C. Alexander as Chief; First
Assistant, John Behm; Second Assistant, J. A. Gaylor ;
President, W. E. Jones; Secretary, H. P. Hannon. The
present efficient department consists of the original Hook
and Ladder Company, Key City Hose Company, and Hose
Company No. 1.
BANKS.
By a somewhat remarkable coincidence, the first two
banks of Sturgis, both unorganized enterprises, were opened
for the transaction of business on the same day in the fall
of 1883, one by J.J. Davenport, himself acting as cashier ;
the other by Stebbins, Fox & Co., with J. C. Shurtz as
cashier. Two years later, in the fall of 1885, the first
named of these was organized under the Territorial laws,
by J. J. Davenport, as the Lawrence County Bank, with a
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 623
capital stock of $25,000.00. In June, 1887, the Lawrence
County Bank and the bank of Stebbins, Fox & Co. con-
solidated under the name of the Lawrence County Bank,
which, in July, 1887, after spending thirty days in
liquidating its finances, was organized into the First
National Bank, by J. J. Davenport and W. R. Stebbins.
In- 1896 the First National Bank went into liquidation
and was incorporated under the laws of South Dakota and
became the Meade County Bank, with D. A. McPherson as
President; James Halley, Cashier, and Jos. Ryan, Assist-
ant Cashier. Its present officers are: D. A. McPherson,
President; P. E. Sparks, Vice-President: H. E. Perkins,
Cashier, and H. L. Conter, Assistant Cashier.
The Meade County Bank rests upon a solid foundation,
and is regarded in financial circles as one of the most
reliable banking institutions in the State.
On September 1st, 1889, another financial institution
was opened for business by an organization known as the
Western Bank and Trust Company, with Chas. C. Polk as
President ; Jacob W. Weeks, Vice-President, and Olaf Hol-
weg, Cashier. The organization was incorporated under
the Territorial laws with an authorized capital of $250,000,
and a paid-up capital of $57,000. The original intention
of the incorporators was to make a specialty of farm mort-
gage business, but finding the outlook along that line
unpromising, it was soon dropped when the institution
confined itself to an exclusive banking business until April,
1894, when it went into voluntary liquidation. In June,
1894, a receiver was appointed, who, after paying off the
company's obligations, and restoring to the stockholders
$28,000 in real estate and other securities, was discharo-ed
in August, 1894.
MANUFACTURES.
During the three or four years subsequent to the forma-
tion of Meade County, Sturgis rapidly increased in popula-
tion, wealth, and prestige, and its citizens expended large
624 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
sums in the establishment of such public and private enter-
prises as would place it upon an enduring basis. Among
the first of these was the building of the Sturgis Steam
Roller Flouring Mill by George Lawrence, in the fall of
1889, at a cost of |6,000. To encourage the establishment
of the industry, the citizens of Sturgis guaranteed to the
builder the ground upon which the mill stands, near the
western limits of the city, besides a cash bonus of $2,500.
The mill, which has a capacity of fifty barrels per day, is
supplied almost exclusively with wheat grown within the
limits of Meade County, which also raises a surplus for
shipment.
The plant is now owned and operated by George Early,
who manufactures tiour from native grain equal to that
produced in any other portion of the West — Minneapolis
not excepted.
A large plant for the manufacture of " stucco " from the
extensive gypsum beds in the vicinity of Sturgis was
operated for a number of years, whose excellent product
found ready sale in large quantities in Eastern cities. The
works were destroyed by fire a few years ago, since which
time the industry has not been re-established.
WATER SYSTEM.
Prior to 1893 Sturgis was lacking in one of the chief
requisites to health and happiness — an abundant supply of
pure, soft water. For nearly fifteen years the people had
drawn their supply of that essential fluid for domestic pur-
poses from the depths of the wells which are yet to be seen
at the back doors of many of the early residences, or from
the uncertain flow of Bear Butte creek. While these wells
furnished an ample supply, perhaps, their waters, though
healthful, are hard and considerably impregnated with
alkali, which renders them rather unpleasant to the taste,
and, what is far worse, destructive to the complexion.
Full}' appreciating these disadvantages, the city fathers,
at their meeting of June 12th, 1892, granted to one of its
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. ()25
cntcrprisini^ citizens — Joseph J. Davenport — a franchise
to supply the city with pure water from the mountains for
u period of twenty years. Mr. Davenport, in accordance
with the conditions of the franchise, completed the plant
and turned the water into the mains on March 9th, 1893.
The water supply is drawn from mountain springs located
four and a half miles from the city limits, and poured into
a reservoir, situated 750 feet above the level of Main street,
whence it comes down through the mains with a pressure
of over 300 pounds to the square inch. The water is pro-
nounced by experts, who have analyzed its properties, to
be exceptionally pure, and free from all disease-producing
germs.
The system has eight and a half miles of pipe, fifty-five
hydrants for fire purposes within the city limits, and also
furnishes Fort Meade with water, under a ten-years' con-
tract. It has 140 taps, which yield to the proprietor a
gross income of $8,000.00 i)er annum.
In 1892 Benevolent Hall Association Temple, the most
elaborate and costly edifice till then erected in Sturgis, was
built by four of the secret societies of the city, the Masonic,
Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, and order of United
Workmen, at a cost, it is alleged, of $20,100. The building
covering an area of 50x120 feet, is a two-story brick structure
with iron facade, and is an ornament and credit to the bus-
iness thoroughfare of the city. According to the original
design, the upper story is devoted to the meetings of the
above respective lodges, where the hidden mysteries of the
orders are periodically practiced.
ELECTRIC LIGHT SYSTEM.
The Sturgis Electric Lighting Service was established in
the spring of 1897, under the terms of a twenty years fran-
chise, granted by the Common Council of the city to the
Sturgis Electric Light and Railway Company —an organiza-
tion effected under the laws of the State — with Messrs. A.
D. Stewart, J. B. C. Baker, H. E, Perkins, and S. K. Seitz
40
626
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
as incorporators. A fine steel-roofed power house, fitted
out with the requisite electric appliances, was built by the
company, at a cost of about $8,000. The plant is furnished
with ample capacity for thoroughly lighting the streets,
business houses, and homes of the city, and will, doubtless,
in the not distant future, be equipped with additional facili-
ties and largely increased power, for running a contem-
plated electric motor railway line from Fort Meade to
the Elkhorn Railroad Station via Sturgis, the right of way
STREET SCENE IN STURGIS, FEBRUARY 22d, li
over the military reservation having already been secured
by the company from the United States government for
such a line.
The consummation of such an enterprise from an eco-
nomic standpoint would prove of vast advantage to the gov-
ernment, in the transportation of the immense amount of
freight used by the post, and also to the business interests
of Sturgis, besides adding to the convenience of passengers
along the line.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THP: DAKOTAIIS. 627
Among the secret and other organizations of Stiugis are
the orders of Free Masons, Odd Fellows, Knights of
Pythias, Ancient Order of United Workmen, Modern
Woodmen, G. A. R., a Women's Literary Club, a Com-
mercial Club and Band Organization, of which latter the
average citizen of Sturgis feels justly proud. The most
potent factor in the business economy of Sturgis, indeed
the very head and front of its commercial existence, is the
'* Sturgis Commercial Club." This organization is com-
posed of its leading business men, whose aim and purpose
is to promote, in every legitimate way, the material interest
of the city, by inviting the investment of capital and en-
couraging public improvements within its limits. Its more
recent efforts have been directed towards securing the per-
manency and enlargement of Fort Meade, upon the reten-
tion of which, the furture prosperity of Sturgis, as well
as the safety of the people of the surrounding country,
largely depends.
The present officers of the club are H. E. Perkins, presi-
dent; John Scollard, vice-president; W. C. Buderus, sec-
retary, P. E. Sparks, treasurer. The executive com-
mittee are the president, secretary, and treasurer, of the
club, M. F. HMl, Wesley A. Stuart, Geo. W. Mumford,
and H. O. x4.nderson.
The press is now represented in Sturgis by three well
conducted newspapers — the Sturgis Record, by C. C.
Moody, The Advertiser, by W. S. Chase; The Press, by
Mrs. b. T. Connor.
The Sturgis bar consists of seven lawyers and attorneys
viz.; Wesley A. Stuart, Chas. C. Polk, M. McMahon, J.
C. McClung, Sherman Wilcox, O. W. Jewett, and W. C.
Buderus, besides several insurance attorneys, among whom
are Max Hoehn, H. P. Atwater, Perkins & Conter, and
perhaps others.
Owing to the extreme healthfulness of its climate Sturgis
sustains, at this writing, only three disciples of Esculapius,
628 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
viz., Dr. L. L. Sanderson, J. McSloy, W. G. Smith, and
one dental surgeon, R. P. Smitb.
The existing urban industries of Sturgis consist of an
extensive sawmill, a planing mill, sash and door factory,
and a large tannery and lath manufactory in the suburbs
of the city. Its mercantile houses, and other business
occupations of various kinds, number about seventy-five,
and its present population, by a conservative estimate,
numbers 1,200.
As proof of the private enterprise of the business men of
Sturgis it may be stated that during the year 1898, nine
stone business blocks were erected along the main business
street of the cit3\ The old frame buildings that have
served their purposes for years, and outlived their useful-
ness, are being from time to time torn down, or moved to
other sites, and in their stead massive, substantial stone
structures rear their imposing fronts, forcibly reminding
one that old things are rapidly receding into the misty past.
Its advantages of location, pure water, and healthful
climate has predestined Sturgis to a large measure of
success. Its situation at the point of convergence of all the
important roadways, leading to the rich agricultural dis-
tricts, which make it their market and base of supplies;
its close proximity to Fort Meade, from which it draws an
extensive trade ; its direct railway and telegraphic con-
nection with the great trade centers of the East, and its
speaking communication by telephone with the principal
towns of the Hills, insure its continued prosperity and per-
manency.
Sturgis, too, by the way, has had its era of disorder,
crime, and speedy retribution. During the first decade of
its history, it was by no means a shining example of
morality and good order. According to its own confession
it has frequently presented scenes of mad recklessness that
outrivaled in lawlessness even the worst days of the
early mining camps of the Hills. These conditions were
occasioned in good part by the riotous behavior of the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAILS.
029
colored infantry men, who garrisoned Fort Meade at the
time. Whisky tlowed like water, and whenever they vis-
ited the town, on leave of absence, after imbibing copious
draughts of the fiery fluid, they proceeded to paint Main
street in all sorts of lurid colors, as if they were its sole
proprietors.
ROUGH RIDERS LEAVING STURGIS FOR CUBA ON MAY 23d, 1898.
Frequent collisions occurred between these black soldiers
and the all-round white toughs who sometimes inflicted
their unwelcome presence upon the community, resulting
in black eyes, cut faces, and bruised anatomies generally.
Sometimes meu were held up and robbed iu the public street
at the muzzle of six-shooters, and sometimes unoffending
men were shot to death under the shelter of their own
roofs, and the officers of the law had much difficulty in pre-
serving even a semblance of good order. Sometimes the
exasperated citizens took the law into their own hands, and
meted out swift punishment to the wretched, trembling
630 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
culprits. These carnivals of disorder usually occurred just
after pay-day at the post, but the colored soldiers were not
uniformly the guilty ones, which the following will serve
to illustrate.
One evening in June, 1884, an inoffensive German,
named Schramm, was held up in the public street, and
robbed of $350.00, all he had in the world, by two soldiers
and a civilian named Fiddler, if a desperado can be called a
civilian.
The three highwaymen were hunted down by a special
deputy and a posse of citizens, among whom were Wm.
McMillan, John Scollard and others, and taken before
Justice O. W. Jewett, who, after an examination, discharged
the two soldiers, but held Fiddler for the crime. He was
lodged in jail, from which he was taken, under cover of
the third night following, by a band of masked men and
suspended from the limb of a near-by tree.
On August 28th, 1885, a colored soldier wantonly fired
into the drug store of Dr. H. P. Lynch, shooting and killing
him instantly. The ne.\t night he also was taken from the
custody of the guards, by a number of masked men, and
dragged away to the western limits of the city. The next
mornino: he was found hanging stark from the limb of a
tree, that stood within a short distance of the Elkhorn
Station. In the following month a squad of riotous col-
ored soldiers while raising pandemonium, by tiring their
revolvers in at the doors and windows of respectable busi-
ness men, shot and killed a man named Bell. Five of the
rioters, after preliminary trial, were taken to Deadwood
and placed in jail, from which before tiiial trial they broke
away and made good their escape.
In 1887 this deplorable state of things was reduced to a
minimum, by the removal of the Twenty-fifth Colored In-
fantry and the substitution of four companies of the Third
Infantry in their stead.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 631
CHAPTER XLI.
FORT MEADE.
By order of Gen. Sheridan, issued in response to numer-
ous appeals of the settlers of the Hills for military protec-
tion against persistent Indian depredations, a temporary
United States military camp was established on Spring creek
a little north of Bear Butte, in August, 1876, and named
Camp Sturgis, in honor of the gallant Lieut. J. G. Stur-
gis, or "Jack Sturgis," as he was familiarly called by his
comrades, who fought and fell with Custer on the hills
overlooking the Little Big Horn. During the occupation
of this camp, the present site of Fort Meade, situated just
outside the eastern foot-hills of the Black Hills, and on the
south side of Bear Butte creek, was selected and located
as a permanent United States military post, which was
established and garrisoned on the 31st of August, 1878.
It is alleged by some, that the post was first called
" Camp Ruhlen," but why it was so called, and, above all,
why a permanent military post should have been called a
-" camp " at all is not apparent. If the allegation is well
founded, it must have been done without authority, as the
post was soon by order of the Department named Fort
Meade, in honor of Gen. George C. Meade, the brave com-
mander of the Union forces at the deciding battle of the
Civil War — Gettysburg.
The work of building the post, for which an appropria-
tion of $100,000.00 had been made, was begun on August
28th, 1878, and completed in August, 1879. The original
appropriation not proving sufficient to meet the cost of
the necessary buildings an additional appropriation of
$11,000, and later a special appropriation of $13,000, was
made for post hospital.
632 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
On the 18th of December, 1878, the Fort Meade milittuy
reservation, comprising an area of a little more than
twelve square miles, was declared, and perhaps no more
desirable location for a military post could have been
found throughout the length and breadth of Uncle Sam's
domain. From a military standpoint, the site is admirable.
On three sides the encircling hills form a spacious amphi-
theater which embraces an extensive plat for parade
ground, smooth and level as a floor, affording ample space
for all kinds of military maneuvers required by army
discipline. This with the exhilarating health-giving atmos-
phere, in which malaria finds no foot-hold, the abundance
of pure water, in which fever-breeding germs cannot exist,
the plentiful supply of pine timber for fuel near at hand,
and the attractiveness of its scenic environment, combine
to render the location peculiarly adapted to the require-
ments of a military post.
According to information obtained from an officer in the
Eighth Cavalry Regiment, Fort Meade has been garrisoned,
since its occupation, as follows: —
The original garrison consisted of troops E and M,
Seventh Cavalry, and companies F and K, First Infantry,
with Major H. M. Lazelle, of First United States Infantry,
in command. In June, 1879, the garrison was reinforced
by the arrival of band and troops C and G, Seventh Cavalry,
and on July 10th, 1879, by troops A and H, Seventh Cav-
alry, at which time Col. S. D. Sturgis assumed command
of the post. On September, 1879, Companies D and H,
First Infantry, from Fort Sully, joined, increasing the
garrison to four companies of infantry and six troops of
cavalry.
On May 13th, 1880, companies D, F, H, and K, left for
Texas, and were replaced by Companies A, D, H, and K,
Twenty-fifth Infantry (colored), with Capt. D. D. Van
Valzah, Twenty-fifth Infantry, in temporary command, Col.
Sturgis being absent on leave. On May 19th, 1881, Col.
Sturgis resumed command, but relinquished in June, going
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. G33
to Washington, D. C, to take charge of the Soldiers'
Home. From that time the post was commanded succes-
sively by Capt. Van Vajzah, Twenty-fifth Infantry, Major
Edward Ball, Seventh Cavalry, and Col. Joseph G. Tilford,
Seventh Cavalry, until about 1886, when Gen. Geo. W.
Forsyth was assigned to the command and remained until
June, 1888.
In 1887 the four companies of the Twenty-fifth Infantry
were replaced by four companies of Third Infantry. In
June, 1888, the Seventh Cavalry Regiment was sent to
Fort Riley, Kansas, and the Third Infantry to some
other point, when the post was regarrisoned by the Eighth
Cavalry Regiment, consisting of eight troops under the
command of Col. Elmer Otis. In January, 1891, Col. Otis
was superseded by Col. C. H. Carleton, who was retired
from active service in June, 1897, when Col. John M. Bacon
took command of the garrison.
Soon after the beginning of the Spanish-American war,
Col. Bacon was ordered to St. Paul, Minnesota, leaving the
post in charge of Major Robt. McGregfor. Pending the
war, the Eighth Cavalry Regiment, which had occupied the
post for ten years, was broken and scattered, the last troops
leaving on October 6th, 1898, for Huntsville, Alabama,
whence they are to be sent to join the army of occupation
in Cuba. The present garrison, October 7th, 1898, con-
sists of two troops of the First United States Cavalry, fresh
from the gory battle-fields of San Juan Hill and El Caney.
Fort Meade has quarters and building accommodations
for a regiment of ten full troops of cavalry, and as it is
regarded, from a strategic standpoint, as the most impor-
tant inland military post in the whole War Department,
it will, doubtless, be increased to its full capacity, and
maintained for many years to come, or so long at least, as
the government feels it necessary to keep a watchful eye and
a restraining hand over the numerous bands of untamed,
it might be said, almost untamable, Indians, partitioned oft'
amons: the various reservations of the Northwest.
€34 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
The present post buildings consist of twenty-five sets
officers' quarters, four double sets barracks, two single sets
barracks, adjutant's office, quartermaster's office, guard
house, officers of the guard room, two quartermaster's
store houses, one commissary, one set band quarters, post
exchange, one granary, nine stables, one quartermaster's
stable, new hospital of two wards, built in 1896; chapel,
schoolhouse, post office, post hall, library, ordnance store
house, powder magazine, one bakery, two ice houses, one
saw mill, one steward house, and a beautifully located
post cemetery fenced in.
The history of Fort Meade would be incomplete without
a brief sketch of the brave "Comanche," for ten years
an honored resident of the post. Comanche bore the
gallant Capt. Keogh to the fatal battle field on the bluffs
overlooking the Little Big Horn on the 25Lh of June, 1876,
and two days and nights after the batlle he was found
standing in a creek, badly riddled by Indian bullets, by
some of Reno's men, patiently waiting and mutely plead-
ing for relief.
Tlje condition of the poor creature seemed so hopeless,
that the first impulse of the men was to shoot him and
end his terrible suffering, but upon second thought they
determined, if possible, to save his life. He was taken to
Fort Lincoln, and after weeks of tender nursing and
sjiillful treatment he recovered.
In April, 1878, Gen. Sturgis issued the follovving humane
order: " Headquarters Seventh United States Cavalry, Fort
A. Lincoln, D. T., April 10th, 1878. General Orders No.
7. (1.) The horse known as 'Comanche,' being the
only living representative of the bloody tragedy of the
Little Big Horn, June 25th, 1876, his kind treatment and
comfort shall be a matter of special pride and solicitude
on the part of every member of the Seventh Cavalry to
the end that his life be preserved to the utmost limit.
Wounded and scarred as he is, his very existence speaks in
terms more eloquent than words, of the desperate struggle
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE UAKOTAHS.
635
figainst overwhelming numbers of the hopeless conflict and
Ihe heroic manner in which all went down on that fatal
day. (2,) The commanding officer of Company I will see
that a special and comfortable stable is fitted up for him,
and he will not be ridden l)y any person whatsoever, under
an^^ circumstances, nor will he be put to any kind of work.
(3.) Hereafter, upon all occasions of ceremony of mounted
regimental formation, ' Comanche,' saddled, bridled, and
draped in mourning, and led by a mounted troo))er of
*' COMANCHE,"
Found standing in a creek near the Custer battle-field badly riddled by
Indian bullets.
Company I, will be paraded with the regiment. By com-
mand of Col. Sturgis, E. A. Garlington, First Lieutenant
and Adjutant, Seventh Cavalry."
In June, 1879, ' Comanche ' was brougiit to Fort Meade
by the Seventh Regiment, where he was kept like a prince
until 1888, when he was taken to Fort Riley, Kansas,
M'here a few years since he died, and was buried with
military honors.
TILFORD.
Tilford, situated in the eastern foot-hills, on a tributary
■of Elk creek, was laid out by an organization, known as the
636 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Pioneer Town-site Company, on January 12th, 1888, about
the time of the arrival of the Fremont, Eliihoru & Missouri
Valley K. R. at that point. The settlers had great hope&
and expectations for the future of their town, which were
destined to be shattered. It was first designated as the
point of connection of the Homestake Narrow-gauge Rail-
way from Lead, with the " Elkhorn " road, but for some
reason the original plan was changed, and its railroad
neighbor on the south was made the point of junction.
In 1890, when the election was held for locating the
county seat of Meade County, Tilford made a creditable
run for the honor, but was defeated. However, des[)ite
its defeat, it is quite a lively little hamlet. The town is
surrounded by an excellent farming and grazing country,
in which former vocation a number of the residents of Til-
ford are profitably engaged. In the hills adjacent thereto
on the west is an abundance of good pine timber, which is
being rapidly converted into lumber, which finds a ready
market at its door.
PIEDMONT.
Piedmont, situated on Elk creek, at the point where it
debouches from the foot-hills into the open plains, about
five miles south of Tilford, on the line of the Fremont &
Elkhorn Railroad, was located as Piedmont in the late
winter of 1887-8, upon the arrival of the road at that
point. At a much earlier date, however, — 3'ears before a
railroad was projected into the Bhick Hills, while the Indians
were yet on the rampage, the ground, upon a portion of
which the town now stands, was located as a ranch, widely
known as " Spring Valley " ranch. All through the days
of overland freighting, stage coaches, and " hold-ups,"
Spring Valley ranch was an important station along the
line, from Sidney and other points to Deadwood, where
entertainment was furnished for man and beast, and was^
also a mail distributing point for settlers, within a limited
radius of the station.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAHS.
637
The ground, which was originally located by Mark
Bouo-hton — not the Mark Boughton of early saw-mill noto-
nORSESHOE CURVE, ON THE FORT PIERRE RAILROAD, RUNNING
BETWEEN LEAD AND PIEDMONT.
riety— Geo. Adler, a Mr. Garvey, and a- man whose name
is forgotten, was, and is still, considered one of the most
valuable ranch properties in the Black Hills. The name
638 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
was suggested by the multitude of pure, cold, crystal
springs which gurgle up from the depths below, causing
the soil to yield its perfect crops and luscious fruitage,
and keeping the meadows in a state of almost perpetual
verdure. It is now recalled that one bright morning ai
tragedy occurred on this ranch in which the green of the
meadow was crimsoned with the blood of one of its owners.
In a quarrel Geo. Adler was shot to death by his copartner
Garvey, it is believed in self-defense, as he was acquitted
after trial by a jury of his peers.
Piedmont, because of its location at the junction with
the Elkhorn of the Fort Pierre narrow-gauge railway, over
which nearly all the commercial traffic of the Homestake
Company is carried, is the most important station between
Rapid City and Sturgis. Here are the homes of a con-
siderable number of the company's employees, who are
engaged along the line of the road, and here the company
conducts a large brick store, requiring the emplo3'ment of
several clerks to fill the demands of an extensive trade, and
a boarding house. Besides the Horaestake enterprises.
Piedmont sustains a store of general merchandise, one
hotel, a neat church edifice, and contains a population of
about 300.
Many tourists are attracted to Piedmont every year to
take a trip over the wonderful Fort Pierre road to Lead
which, once taken, remains a memory forever. Some of
the grandest and most picturesque scenery in all the mar-
velous region of the Black Hills is to be found along this
line, views which are well worth taking a long journey to
see. The most notable attraction, however, is the Crystal
Cave, on Elk creek, a few miles above Piedmont. The
writer has never ventured beyond the portal of the natural
cave, but visited its faint reproduction at the World's Fair
in 1893, and its various chambers, gorgeous with brilliant
crystalline incrustations, presented a picture which lingers
in the memory still. According to the testimony of tour-
ists and others who have explored its passages in all their
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS,
63^
ramifications, for a distance of fifteen or more miles, few
of the natural attractions of the Hills are better worth
visitincr. A peculiar feature of the cave is a number of
miniature lakes, six or eight feet deep, filled with water so
transparent, that it is difficult to believe that the bottom is
more than a few inches below the surface.
BLACK HAWK.
Black Hawk, also on the line of the Elkhorn Railway,
near the southern limits of the county, about seven miles
north of Rapid City, was located and platted by Mr. C. F.
and Mrs. Cornelia Ward, on December 21st, 1887. It
attained but little importance until 1896, when the estab-
lishment of an extensive lumber manufactory by Baker &
Price brou<rht it into considerable promineuce. The plant
which has brought Black Hawk to the fore, consists of a
larce saw mill and planing mill, with the adjunct of an ex-
tensive wood yard, requiring the employment of a large
force of men. The company also operates two or three
.aw mills, in the timbered region adjacent to the town, to
which the manufactured lumber is brought for shipment.
In connection with the industry the company has estab-
lished a boarding house and a large store of general mer-
chandise to supply the demands of its employees. In
consequence of this lumber manufacturing enterprise,
Black Hawk has been transformed from a secluded railway
station containing a post office, a school, and a small store
of general merchandise, into quite an important mdustrial
The' other points of more or less importance where post
offices are maintained are : Grashul, Bend and V.ewfielcl
on Elk creek, Smithville, on the sonth fork of the Cheyenne
river Doyle, Eunkel, Alkali, Big Bottom, Elm Springs.
640 THE BLACK HILLS: OR,
CHAPTER XLII.
FALL RIVER COUNTY.
Fall River County, situated in the extreme soulhwesteni
portion of the Black Hills, dates its origin back to 1883,
and derives its name from one of the county's most
important streams. Prior to that date the territory
embraced within its boundaries constituted a part of the
original county of Custer, as nearly everyone in the Black
Hills doubtless already knows, but all may not know just
why and how it asserted itself and became a separate
organization, endowed with all the functions of individual
county government.
The people of the southern i)ortion of Custer County,
like those of the eastern half of the original county of
Lawrence, six years later l)ecame no longer willing to
travel eighty miles over hill and dale, through bush and
bracken, to attend terms of court whenever called upon to
serve as witnesses or jurors; and, moreover, being essen-
tially an agricultural and stock-raising class, they were not
especialh^ interested in mines and mining; hence, when
the requisite population was acquired, they took immediate
steps to bring about a separation. Reversing the old
adage, they adopted the motto of *' Divided we stand,
united we fall."
The friends of the measure succeeded in securing the
passage of a bill through the Territorial Legislature, at its
session of 1883, by the provisions of which Custer County
was divided on a line running due east and west near its
geographical center, and the southern subdivision created
into Fall River County ; and henceforth the two sections
traveled divergent paths. The act became a law on March
6th, 1883, and on November 17th of that year Gov. Ord-
way, of Dakota Territory, issued a commission to Elisha P.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 641
Chilson, Wm. P. Phillips, and Edmund Petty, to organize
and construct a county government for the new county.
The commissioners at their first session fixed the temporary
county seat at Hot Springs, which was made the permanent
capital by popular vote at the next general election.
Besides the commissioners, the other first county oflicers
were : James A. Shepard, Sheriif ; Joseph Petty, Treas-
urer; Geo. A. Turner, Register of Deeds and ex officio
County Clerk; John Wells, Probate Judge; Dr. R. D.
Jennings, County Surveyor; Gifford A. Parker, Asses-
sor; George Trimmer, Coroner; Wm. Wells, Superin-
tendent of Schools.
Fall River County, it appears, had no auditor until Jan-
uary, 1891, when J. M. Moore assumed the office, having
been elected to that position at the November election of
1890.
As soon as the wheels of the county machinery were put
in operation, the commissioners turned their attention to
the matter of county internal improvements. Notwith-
standing the fact that the young county was incumbered
with its proportion of Custer County's six years' accumu-
lation of indebtedness, inasmuch as it possessed abundant
material resources, and an enterprising, progressive people,
who were willing; to bear the burden of additional taxation,
considerable expenditures were made in the construction of
such roads and bridges as would render the county seat
easily accessible to all settlers within the county domain.
After the lapse of a few years, the people of the county
voted to issue bonds to the amount of $25,000 for the pur-
pose of providing funds for building a new courthouse,
and, in 1890, a court building was completed, which, in
point of external architecture, beauty of material, and in-
ternal finish, was the most elaborate, as well as the most
costly, that had been constructed in the Black Hills. It is
an imposing three-storied structure, built up from base to
pediment of native white sandstone, — some call it pink,
surmounted by a handsome ornamental tower, and stands
41
642 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
in seemingly conscious dignity and pride, a little above
where the hills entrench upon the border of the stream
near the northern limits of the capital city.
The territory of Fall River County comprises an area of
nearly 1,037,000 acres, about two-thirds of which may
properly be divided into arable and grazing land, the resi-
due consisting of rugged hills, covered for the most part
with heavy pine timber. The southern portion lying along
the Cheyenne river and extending south to the northern
boundary line of the State of Nebraska, is peculiarly
adapted to stock-raising, large herds of cattle and horses
feeding all the year round on its rich grasses without other
sustenance.
The principal streams draining the area are the south
fork of the Big Cheyenne river, which traverses the county
from its western to its northeastern boundary line, and its
tributaries. Fall river and Beaver creek on the north, and
Horsehead and Hat creeks on the south.
Fall river, which derives its name from the rapidity of
its descent, is fed by the aggregate waters of Hotbrook
and Coldbrook, its two affluents, and the surplus waters of
the many never- failing springs along the narrow valley,
and carries a large volume of water to the Cheyenne river
at all seasons of the year without material diminution.
According to the statistics of 1897, a considerable pro-
portion of the whole acreage of Fall River County is still
open to settlement, much of which is as desirable as any
land to be found in any other portion of the Hills. In the
year 1897 there were 128,767 acres of land assessed at a
valuation of $390,371.00; 8,726 cattle, at $89,186.00;
3,979 horses, at $53,701.00; 6,224 sheep at $6,679.00;
and other stock at $1,099.00, making a total assessed valu-
ation for the county of $541,046.00. The population of
the county for the same year was 5,500 approximately.
THERMAL SPRINGS.
From a scientific standpoint, a portion of Fall River
County is, perhaps, the most remarkable region in the
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 043
entire Black Hills, and offers a most inviting and instruc-
tive field to the student for geological and chemical re-
search. Its most peculiar and interesting Features are the
groups of phenomenal springs, whose wonderful curative
properties have made them already justly celebrated
throughout the land. Their thermal waters, clear as
crystal, issue forth from clefts in the solid rocks, but
primarily, it is believed, come bubbling up from nature's
heated chemical laboratory, away down somewhere toward
the Celestial empire, forming numerous copious springs, in
whose limpid waters the rheumatic, the dyspeptic, the
neuralgic, the sciatic, the hypochondriac, and the hysterical
may lave, and aided by frequent generous draughts of the
tepid fluid, be made whole. It may be stated, en passant ,
that at first the beverage is not the most palatable in the
world, but after several dekaliters each day for a week
have been quaffed, one becomes accustoqjed to it and will
want to increase the dose.
The temperature of the water of these springs, of which
there are several, is said to range from ninety-six to ninety-
eiiiht degrees Fahrenheit, neither too hot nor too cold for
bathing purposes, it having been already prepared in
nature's dispensary to suit the temperature of the human
body. The medicinal properties of these springs, all of
which have been frequently analyzed by expert chemists,
with nearly the same results, are as follows ; —
CONSTITUENTS.
Parts per gallon. Grains.
Silica 2.464
Peroxide of Iron A trace
Calcium Sulphate 16.325
Magnesium 4.320
Sodium Sulphate, Potassium Sulphate 25.620
Sodium, Chloride, and Potassa 13.790
Total 62.519
644 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
Hundreds of physicians of high repute from all parts of
the country have visited these springs to examine for them-
selves their medicinal characteristics and have pronounced
them to be unequaled by any other known mineral waters
for various kinds of maladies, but more especially for all
kinds of rheumatic affections. Many marvelous and well
authenticated cures of that disease in its worse forms are
chronicled, some of which have come under the writer's own
personal observation, and if there is anything under the
sun in which she has implicit and abiding faith, it is the
efficacy of the thermal waters of the Black Hills' Hot
Springs, for all kinds of rheumatic affections.
Their virtues were well known to the Indians, it appears,
long years before they were discovered by white men.
Time-worn tradition, into whose warp and woof are inter-
woven many interesting pages of real history, says that
more than two and a half centuries ago the North American
tribes were stricken with a fearful epidemic, which threat-
ened to obliterate them from the face of the continent, and
that many came from afar with their afflicted braves, and
women, and children, to bathe in their healing waters.
Finally after the lapse of more than 200 years, they were
usurped by the avaricious Cheyennes, but as to how this was
done tradition is silent. The powerful Sioux, having an
equal solicitous regard for the health of their squaws and
papooses, disputed their title, which culminated in the
waging of a fierce conflict for their possession. On the
summit of a mountain, now called Battle Mountain, which
stood guard over them, three miles to the eastward, the
battle began. Both sides, says tradition, fought with
distinguished savage gallantry, and from behind the tower-
ing rocky battlements, poison-tipped arrows flew thick
and fast from the bows of the opposing braves, resulting
in a sweeping victory for the valorous Sioux, who obtained
and retained possession until driven out of the Black Hills
by the superior valor of the pioneers.
Moreover, there is a bit of legendary Indian lore handed
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 645
down, which tells a tragic story. There was a Sioux Indian
princess, reads the legend, whose wondrous beauty made
her the envy of all the dusky maidens of the Sioux tribes.
This royal princess, who came with her people often to
lave in the wonderful waters, had plighted her troth to a
stalwart young brave, — presumably beneath her in rank,
whom she loved with all the fiery ardor of her race, but
the unfeeling and ambitious chief, her father, had selected
one in whose veins coursed the blue blood of generations
of medicine men, for his beautiful daughter, and cruelly
separated the young lovers, when the unhappy maiden,
during one of their periodical visits to that region, threw
herself headlong from a towering cliff and was dashed to
fragments on the rocks below, leaving her name — Miune-
kahta, as a heritage to the springs. Is it not possible that
the hero and heroine of the awful tragedy were romantic
myths?
Many evidences are found of the occupation of this local-
ity by Indians, but, in view of their well-known dread of
the terrible electric storms which sometimes sweep over the
Hills, the forked lightning splintering the giant pines from
topmost branch to their roots, it is believed their visits were
of short duration, and, perchance, for the most time they
pitched their tepees outside the foot-hills. With her char-
acteristic incredulity, the writer also accepts the tradition,
in as far as it relates to bathing, with a good many grains
of skepticism. Who ever saw, or knew, of an uncivilized
Indian taking a bath? Who, indeed!
True it is that there is to be seen a shallow, moccasin-
shaped tub, cut out of the solid rock, in which it is believed
by many, they immersed themselves in sections when sick.
Perhaps it was like this, — to quote a bit of doggerel: —
" The Indian, when sick, in hot water will lave.
The Indian, when well, devil a bit will he have."
The first white men to visit the Hot Springs' region were,
it is claimed : Col. Dodge, Prof. Henry Newton, and Dr.
646 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
V. T. McGillicaddy, members of the Jenny Scientific Ex-
pedition in 1875. According to the notes of Prof . Newton,
the three above-named gentlemen, while on a tour of
exploration through the southwestern Hills, during the
summer of that year, discovered a warm spring, which Dr.
McGillicuddy at the time named Minnekahta.
It is not at all improbable that others also, while hunting
or prospecting for minerals in their locality, may have come
upon these spring at an early date, but it was left for Col.
Wm. Thornby, now of Deadwood, to first locate and bring
them into public notice. The history of their location, and
the subsequent settlement of the region where the famous
health resort now stands — based upon data obtained from
Col. Thornby, is substantially as follows : In June, 1879,
Prof. Jenny and Col. Thornby, left Deadwood together, on
horseback, for a trip through the southern Hills, the former
to complete some unfinished work, began in 1875, the latter
without other object apparently than mere adventure.
Their route took them through Rapid City to Rocker-
ville — then riding on the crest of the topmost wave of
prosperity — thence to Sheridan, where they met and were
entertained royally by some of the old miners who had
escaped from the dreaded " blue coats," and taken refuge
under the mantle of the Jenny Expedition in 1875. Find-
ing no public accommodations at Hill City — then at its
ebb-tide, on reaching that point they proceeded south, and
put up at a ranch then owned by L. B. Reno, a mile below.
During their stay at the ranch, it was incidentally disclosed,
that a ledge of very rich quartz literally covered with free
gold had been discovered in the vicinity of " Chimney
Rock" about eight miles south of Custer, in 1875, by W.
K. Patrick, botanist of the Jenny Expedition. The next
day the Professor and Col. Thornby, bent on finding, if
possible, the reputed rich ledge, set out for Custer, which
they made their base of operations pending the search.
Strangely enough they found no hostelry at the pioneer
town and were forced to trespass upon the private hospi-
COL. WM. THOKM5Y,
Locator of the famous Minnekahta Thermal Spring and the site upon
vvliich the celebrated Blaclj Hills resort now stands.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 647
tality of J. C. Saunders, who had been one of the guides of
the scientific expedition of 1875. At that time, says Mr.
Thornby, Sam'l. Booth and Sam. Shankland kept a store
of general merchandise at Custer, which then contained a
population of ten souls, exclusive of a few miners who were
camping within the limits of the town. " How had the
mighty fallen !"
Bright and early the next morning they started out in
search of the " lost mine," returning at night with a large
sack filled with the most promising samples of white quartz
to be found in the region round about " Chimney Rock."
Providing themselves with pan and mortar, they repaired
to French creek, where the next day was spent in pulver-
izing and panning out the contents of the sack, without
raising a sinffle color. A continued and more extended
research on the following day was attended with like results.
Similar white quartz, glittering with gold, was brought into
Custer by Alfred Gay in 1876, causing intense excitement,
and what is most remarkable, he was never able to locate
the mine afterwards.
During their stay in Custer, they met N. H. Ross, one
of the miners of the Custer Expedition of 1874, who told
them of some warm springs he had encountered while on a
hunting trip through the southern Hills, when they decided
to go at once and explore the region for themselves. ,
Of the trip, the location of the springs and the conse-
quent settlement of that region of the Hills, Col. Thornby
very entertainingly says: —
" We determined to explore that region and arose at four
o'clock one morning, had lunches put up, and started.
We went by the way of the Point of Rocks, where there is
now a station on the Burlington road called Pringle. From
this point we took an old Indian trail along the divide
towards Buffalo Gap, for six or seven miles, and passed
within a short distance of the now famous Wind Cave.
We then took a direct course toward Battle Mountain, and
first reached what is now known as Fall river, at a point
648 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
where the F. E. & M. V. depot now stands. We watered
our horses, staked them out, took a bath, and ate our
lunches. After hunting an hour or so at that point, we
started on horseback up the stream, and when we reached
the point where the Evans Hotel now stands, we found a
pretty brook flowing down what is now graded as Minne-
kahta avenue. It was a warm day, we had been drinking
the tepid water from the creek, and the sight of the bright,
sparkling water of the brook was tempting. Prof. Jenny
had a telescope gutta percha drinking cup with him, and,
dismounting, I asked him for the cup, saying I would hand
him some of the water, which looked so fresh and cool.
To my surprise, I found it warmer than the water of the
creek. We followed up this little stream to where the
Minnekahta bath house was afterwards built, and
where the famous spring boils out of the rock. At
that time it was a virgin spring, and I do not think it
had been disturbed by a human being, not excepting the
Indians. It was covered with frog spawn, and was about
six or seven feet in diameter. I cleared away the frog
spawn, and the professor and I dipped our hands in it.
It seemed to me at that time to be almost at the boiling
temperature, and much warmer than it is now. I was very
much taken with the spring, and with a hatchet I chopped
opf the top of a cedar tree, blazed it on both sides, and
wrote on the tree: "I claim this spring." Prof. Jenny
prophesied that some day the spring would be valuable.
At this time the nearest habitation to the spring was Geo."
Boland's ranch at Buffalo Gap, twelve miles distant.
*' It was about two o'clock when we left this spring, now
named the « Minnekahta ' spring, and we took a different
course back, coming up what is called Hotbrook canyon,
until we struck the Holman cut-off road, running from
Custer to Fort Robinson, crossing near what is now
Minnekahta junction, on the Burlington road. At this
point I saw the first herd of elks I had ever seen. It being
in the spring of the year, they had shed their antlers, and
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 649
I remarked to the professor: ' There's a herd of mules.'
From here we journeyed along a good road to Custer,
reaching there about 7 :30 in the evening.
" After remaining at Custer a day or two, and hearing
so much exciting talk of the two new discoveries, known as
the ' Old Bill,' and the ' Grand Junction ' located six miles
north of Custer, we started to investigate that camp. The
' Old Bill ' locators pounded up a great many samples of
their rock for the professor, and it was marvelously rich.
We then visited the ' Grand Junction,' about a mile and a
half from the ' Old Bill,' and were shown some fine pros-
pects from that famous ledge. Prof. Jenny advised me to
prospect in that vicinity and locate some ground. I said I
would return to Deadwood with him ; get my clothing and
blankets, and come back to the locality, which I did soon
after. From the ' Grand Junction ' mine, we cut our way
through the brush, down Tenderfoot gulch until we came
to the Hill City road, stopping with Reno & Bond again
that night. We gave them a history of the Hot Springs
section, and described what a pretty place it would be to
locate a ranch. Reno told me he would go down there
with me when I came back. The next morning Reno
accompanied us to Hill City and introduced us to George
Trimmer and John Dennis, who were living in Hill City.
Reno, Trimmer, and Dennis afterwards became three of the
pioneer residents of Hot Springs.
" Jenny and I went from Hill City up to Newton's Fork,
visiting Rochford, which was a booming camp then, and
went thence to Deadwood. After spending a few days in
Deadwood, I packed my outfit, moved to the ' Grand
Junction ' mine, and built a cabin. I was appointed on a
committee with Dennis McGuire to layout the town-site of
Junction City. Shortly afterwards I took a horseback trip
to George Boland's ranch, at Buffalo Gap, and tried my best
to induce him to go with me to locate the Hot Springs.
At that time he was the stage agent at Buffiilo Gap, and
distributing postmaster for all the mail that came into the
650 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
Black Hills. His place was a great stopping-place for all
the emigfrants, and he was the busiest man I ever met.
" The night I was at his place a peculiar incident occurred.
Col. John B. Fury, Post Office Inspector, with one of the
high officials from Washington, was there, and he held the
outgoing stage at the Gap. While he was checking up Boland
in the Post Office and the distributing system, Boland was
busily occupied in finding stable room for the transient
stock and selling hay and feed to the emigrants, and the
W^ashington official became very indignant because Boland
did not give him greater attention. He started to repri-
mand Boland, when the latter became irate and gave the
Washington dignitary the worst dressing down I ever heard
a man get in my life. He wound up by firing the Post
Office — which consisted of a l)eer case with twenty-four
pigeonholes — out into the road, and ordered the Wash-
ington man off the reservation. It required all of Col.
Fury's suavity and persuasion to pacify Boland and induce
him to act as distributor until someone could be secured to
take the place, at Rapid City."
The Washington official obviously did not estimate the
metal of which the Black Hills pioneers are made at its true
value. If he had been forewarned that Uncle Sam's mail
distributor at Buffalo Gap had, with Capt. Gardner, Jack
King, Dick Horsford, and others, fought several desperate
battles with the redskins while en route over the dangerous
trail from Fort Laramie to Custer in 1876, he might have
been more discreet in his choice of words.
" The next day Boland wrote out a ranch location notice
on a piece of the box that had served as the post office, and
I started with it, with several nails and a hatchet, ' armed
to the teeth,' to locate the Minnekahta spring. I think it
was about the middle of July, 1879. In looking for the
Minnekahta spring, I found the spring where the ' plunge
bath ' now stands, and to correct some history and stories
that have been published and told about Hot Springs, I
will state this was the spring that the Indians had dug out,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. ()0l
and where they had bathed, as I found many tepee sites
surrounding it, strewn with lodge poles. I was in a quan-
dary whether to locate this spring or the Minnekahta spring,
but I nailed my location notice to the Cedar tree that I had
chopped down, while at the spring with Jenny, on account of
the water being much warmer. Bolund had instructed me to
locate the ranch a half mile square, and I put up one stake
next to the cement wall back of the site of the Evans Hotel
as my eastern boundry. It was getting late in the after-
noon, and thinking I might lose my way, I started back to
Boland's ranch at Buffalo Gap. At that time there were no
stakes or locations upon any of the springs, and I am positive
that I was the first person to put a location on any of them.
" During the summer and fall I made several trips to the
location from Custer, where I was staying, — changing the
date on the notice each time, and reserving thirty days in
which to make permanent improvements. Some time in
August, Reno and Trimmer made a trip to the springs and
lacated the two ranches where the old town now stands,
but, before the}' made any improvements, Geo. Turner
and Joseph Brunschmidt built a cabin just above where
the plunge bath now stands, in a cottonwood grove, and
turned some cattle loose. Their cabin was the first built
in that section.
" I was elected the first County Assessor of Custer County
that fall, Mr. Louis Everly, who had been elected the pre-
vious fall, having refused to qualify. The next spring 1
went down to the springs to assess Turner and Brun-
schmidt, accompanying Mr. Reno and Mr. Bond. They
started the second cabin upon what afterwards became the
original town-site. The third cabin was built by Geo.
Trimmer on ground now occupied by his fruit orchard.
John Dennis built the fourth house near the Catholicon
spring. During the summer of 1880, Joe Laravie and
John Davidson came over from Pine Ridge Agency,
bringing their families to visit Trimmer and family.
"Laravie was sick with rheumatism, and Trimmer took
652 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
him to my spring to bathe, Trimmer digging out the old
original bath tub.
♦' They built a log cabin and put up several tepees near,
Laravie and Davidson being squaw men, and a picturesque
scene was formed. On one of my trips, to make arrange-
ments for building a house on my claim, I found them
there, and in a joking way they told me they had jumped
my spring.
" At that time the Grand Junction mine was bonded for a
large sum of money, and I, having some property adjoining,
that was included in the bond, and thinking that a sale
would surely be made, I was feeling very generous, and
told them they could have the spring if they would hold
it. I thought they could make some money out of it, while
I could not afford to keep some one there, and was too
busy in the mining line to stay there myself.
" That summer I visited Deadwood, and wrote an article
for the Pioneer about the springs. Dr. R. D. Jennings
read it, and questioned me considerably about the springs,
and sent McKay, one of the old miners who had been with
Custer, down to investigate, and give him a full report.
Dr. Jennings and Dr. A. S. Stewart visited the springs in
the fall of 1881, looking over the situation thoroughly.
After returning to Deadwood they formed a stock com-
pany, with E. G. Dudley, L. R. Graves and Col. Fred. T. '
Evans, and this company bought out Davidson and Laravie.
In the meantime Reno had traded his ranch to Joe and
Ted. Petty for a farm they owned near Buffalo Gap. They
held the plunge bath spring for irrigating their farm. The
new company purchased that spring also.
"Dr. Stewart, Dr. Jennings, and Judge Dudley moved
their families to the springs in 1882, built themselves com-
fortable homes and laid out the original town-site. Judge
Dudley started a saw mill, and Graves and Evans furnished
the necessary means to build up and improve the town. If
five men ever worked together in harmony for the upbuild-
ing of a place, these men did."
DIJ. R. D. JKXNINGS,
One of the founders of The Great Americ;in Carlsbad.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE IMKOTAHS. 653
It will be seen from the foresjoinor account that, con-
trary to the heretofore commonly accepted belief, to Col.
Wm. Thornby belongs the distinction of having located,
not only the first warm spring, but also, jointly with
George Boland, the site upon which the main portion of the
celebrated Black Hills health resort now stands. He did
not perfect settlement of the ground, it is true, having,
in a spasm of generosity, which he has since, no doubt,
sorely regretted, relinquished his claim to Joe Laravie and
John Davidson, squaw men, who subsequently sold to the
Hot Springs Town-site Company for a good round sum.
The first actual settlers in the Hot Springs region were
George Trimmer, George Turner, Joseph Brunschmidt, and
Joseph and Edmund Pitty. Although Messrs. Reno and
Bond located ranches, it does not appear that they made
permanent settlement.
Col. Wm. Thornby, the locator of the wonderful thermal
" Minnekahta " spring, and the site upon which the cele-
brated Blacks Hills health resort now stands, came to the
Black Hills in the winter of 1876, then a young man just
entered upon his twenties, and like the born "rustler"
that he is, went immediately to work as an up-gulch agent
for the Black Hills Weekly Pioneer. In June, 1879, he
went to Custer, and in the fall of that year was elected as
the first assessor of that county and was again elected to
succeed himself. In 1884 he was elected as county judge
of Custer County. In 1892 he was elected to the State
Senate from Custer and Fall River Counties, by the largest
majority received by any member in either branch of the
Legislature. In 1887 he was appointed a Colonel on the
staff of Governor Church, receiving the first Colonel's com-
mission in the Black Hills. Mr. Thornby is now in the
employ of the Government Assay OflSce at Deadwood,
South Dakota.
Dr. R. D. Jennings, one of the founders of the great
"American Carlsbad," came to the Black Hills with the
Major Whitehead party from Bismarck, in June, 1876,
654 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stopping first at Crook City, then on the crest of the wave,
and, as some thought, the future metropolis of the Black
Hills.
After a short sojourn at Crook City, he went to Dead-
wood, where he remained until 1881 when he removed to
Hot Springs, where he has since resided. Dr. Jennings
held the position of Deputy United States Revenue Col-
lector for Dakota Territory from March, 1875, to June,
1878, after which time he was engaged in mining in the
vicinity, of Deadwood until his removal to Hot Springs,
where for several years he followed the business of an
architect. Many of the public buildings of the Black Hills,
notably the Pennington and Custer County courthouses, the
Deadwood and Custer public school buildings, as also the
Minnekahta Hotel at Hot Springs, and numerous of the
cottages of Deadwood, were constructed after plans pre-
pared by his hand.
Upon his removal to Hot Springs, Dr. Jennings took up
the study of medicine and graduated from a medical school
at Chicago, 111., in 1889, and in 1890 took an M. R. C. S.
course in King's College, London, since which time he has
been engaged in the practice of his profession at Hot
Springs, South Dakota.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. G5i3
CHAPTER XLIir.
HOT SPRINGS OR MINNEKAHTA.
Located upon and between a somewhat bewildering maze
of undulating hills, in the picturesque valley of Fall river,
flanked by lofty ranges of mountains, — trending nearly
north and south at an elevation of about 3,700 feet above the
ocean's plane, may be foynd Hot Springs, distinguished as
the Hot Springs of South Dakota, but sometimes designated
the " Carlsbad of America," and perhaps its noted Ger-
man prototype suffers nothing by the comparison. In-
deed the Hot Springs of to-day with its numerous sanitari-
ums and bath-houses equipped with all the best appliances
for administering every kind of water treatment, including
the plunge, the spray, the vapor, the salt, the Turkish, and
Russian baths, its magnificent many storied and luxuriantly
furnished hotels, tor the entertainment of the crowds of
guests who visit the resort every summer in quest of pleasure
and health; its superb climate and romantic scenic environ-
ments, to say nothing of its tine public and private build-
ings, possibly reflects luster upon its foreign namesake.
The Hot Springs Town-site Company was organized in
Deadwood, late in the fall of 1881, and in December, 1882,
the town-site was laid out on ground purchased by the com-
pany of Edmund Petty, but first located as a ranch by
L. B. Reno, in 1879, in the vicinity of the Catholicou
spring, the original plat containing an area of 160 acres.
Appropriately enough, the name applied to the new town
was Hot Springs, but in this connection the thought natur-
ally occurs that the more euphonious and attractive appel-
lation of " Minnekahta," which, in the Sioux tongue, char-
acterizes the thermal quality of the waters of that region,
65()
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
and, moreover, which speaks eloquently of sparkling rills
and babbling brooks, of mossy dells and shady nooks,
would be more in harmony with the romantic beauties of
THE FIRST HOUSE OX THE ORIGINAL TOWX-SITE OF HOT SPRINGS,
BUILT BY DR. A. S. STEWART.
that delightfully sequestered spot. Perhaps, however,
from a purely material and economic standpoint, it was the
proper thing to give it the more practical name of plain
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS, 657
Hot Springs. At any rate, Hot Springs it is, and it is not
the purpose of the writer to question the propriety of the
title bestowed.
The initial building, erected on the town-site, was a one
and one-half story frame structure, built by Dr. A. S.
Stewart for a stage station and hotel, for the entertain-
ment of passengers over the line, and other guests. The
building did not long stand isolated and alone, as shown in
the accompanying cut, other business enterprises of a mag-
nitude sufficient to meet the requirements of the popula-
tion, being soon established. During the following year,
too, a school was opened, and the first public school build-
ing erected. This first school was taught by Miss Lottie
Smith of Custer, in a small log cabin, situated at the lower
extremity of the original town, with an attendance of six
pupils. Subsequently, a school building was erected by
the citizens of the lower town, under the auspices of the
Hot Springs Library Association. This first public school
building afterwards became the property of the Catholic
Church.
Although the town received something of an impetus in
1883, when it became the capital of Fall River County, it
was not characterized by any remarkable permanent growth
during the first three years of its existence, its population
being for the most part of a transient character. It did not
grow up in a day like some of the early mining camps of
the Hills, but developed by a sort of gradual evolution.
News of the wonderful cures effected by the use of the
thermal waters, in cases of rheumatism, soon spread beyond
the limits of the Hills, when it became the " Mecca" of
laro'e numbers of those afilicted with that and other kin-
dred maladies, to test their virtues. Some, who, perhaps,
had experienced only occasional premonitory twinges of
that peculiar disease, came provided with camping outfits,
for a season of recuperation, and pitched their tents near
one or another of the most reputable of the many springs,
on ground once occupied by the tepees of the rcdmen,
42
658 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
while others took up their quarters at a hotel or other place
of entertainuient ; hotels and buth houses had sprung up in
the vicinity of the springs as naturally as their thermal
waters bubbled up from the depths below. A few help-
less cripples, with drawn, distorted members, who were
brought in wagons and carried to their quarters for treat-
ment, returned to their homes in a few weeks, sound in
every limb. These were only temporary guests who came
and went.
With the increasing influx of invalids, and tourists on
pleasure bent, the demand for sanitariums, furnished with
facilities for the treatment of patients, and increased hotel
accommodations for the entertainment of visitors, both
sick and well, became imperative. To fulfill this demand,
required the expenditure of a large amount of capital and
the company jirepared to meet the emergency.
In the fall of 1886 the Town-site Company reorganized
and was duly incorporated under the Territorial laws, and
designated the Dakota Hot Springs Company, with Dr. A.
S. Stewart, Dr. R. D. Jennings, Col. Fred. T. Evans,
Leonard K. Graves, and Judge E. G. Dudley as incorpo-
ators. The company was organized with a capital stock
of $2,000,000, divided into 40,000 shares, of a par value
of $500 each.
The 320 acres of land, purchased by the company of
Laravie and Davidson, was laid out and platted for a new
town-site, when the center of growth was transferred from
the old town-site to the new, in the vicinity of the originally
discovered " Minnekahta " spring, which is regarded as the
head and front of the town's existence. From this time
dates the real substantial growth of Hot Springs. Real
estate became at once in active demand, and the investment
of capital followed as a logical sequence. A newspaper
and bank were soon established, followed late** by educa-
cational and other public institutions. Elegant, many-
storied structures of native sandstone, rose up in the
valley, and others reared their imposing individualities on
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE IMKOTAHS. 659
the adjacent plateaus, in the construction of which hun-
dreds of thousands of dollars were disbursed and for the
most part circulated through the town.
The first newspaper published, called the Hot Springs
/Star, was established by Dr. A. S. Stewart and W. W.
Laflesh on May 28th, 1886. The tirst bank opened its
doors for business on July 28th, 1888, with Richard C.
Lake, president ; Jas. Halley, vice-president, and H. S.
Eaton, cashier. The institution was incorporated under the
Territorial laws, and designated the " Hot Springs Bank."
The first religious society was organized by the Metho-
dists in 1884, which society also erected the first house of
public worship in 1887. There are now six religious organ-
izations, viz. : the Methodist, Episcopalian, Presbyterian,
Congregational, Baptist, and Catholic.
PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.
On an elevated plateau, known as " College Hill," over-
looking the valley of Fall river on the west, half hidden
by trees, stands the Black Hills College, in its sober
gray sandstone attire. The college building, a solid three-
storied structure, was completed in 1889 at a cost of $20,-
000 approximately. The institution which was established
under the auspices of the Methodist church, opened its
doors for the admission of students on September 11th,
1890, with an attendance of eleven students, which number
was increased to forty before the close of the college year.
Its first president was Rev. John W. Haucher, through
whose unremitting efforts the existence of the college was
made possible.
Although denominational, the institution is conducted
upon broad and liberal principles, its doors standing wide
open for all students regardless of creed. Its course,
covers a wide range of studies, in which the instruction is
thorough and complete, by reason of which the institution
has gained an enviable reputation both at home and
abroad.
660
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
LAST HUNTIN(} GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. ()6l
About half way up the acclivity of a hill which rises up
to the westward of the business portion of the city, with
groves of pine and hemlock, and tumuli of variegated
gypsum on its outer evironments, as I remember it, the
South Dakota Soldiers' Home rears its massive pile of gray
stone masonry. The Home, covering an area of 85x132
feet, wholly within its own generous domain of eighty acres
of land, is a fine three-story structure with dormer roof,
built of handsome gray sandstone, with double verandas in
front, and stands a fitting monument in honor of the brave
men who fought to preserve us a united nation. Within
its solid walls and under its protecting roof , South Dakota's
disabled, gray-haired veterans of the Civil War may find a
safe refuge, and spend the balance of their days in peaceful
comradeship, recounting stories of the terrible days when
they bivouacked on the field of battle, surrounded by the
bodies of the slain.
The Home, which was secured to Flot Springs through the
recommendation of the G. A. R. of the Department of
Dakota, was completed in 1890, at a cost — including inte-
rior equipments and outside appurtenances — of $45,000
to Dakota Territory. The Act authorizing its construc-
tion, which became a law over the Governor's veto on
the 27th of February, 1889, gives title in fee simple to
eighty acres of land, within or near the limits of Hot
Springs, to Dakota Territory, and by contract guarantees
to the Home and its inmates all the water needed for any
purpose whatsoever from the best spring in the region free
of charge. It is needless to state that the title is now
vested in South Dakota, and the water procured from the
original Minnekahta spring.
In the valley, almost directly east from the Soldiers'
Home on the opposite side of Fall river, the Evans Hotel
stands out in bold relief against a background of rugged,
variegated crags which rise high and still higher towards the
east until they culminate in Battle Mountain, some two
and a half or three miles awav. The building is five stories
662 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
in height, constructed of what many connoisseurs in color
shades call pink sandstone, but which to my inartistic eye
appears of a light brown. However, to compromise dif-
ferences, we shall call it pinkish-brown. Well, it is built
of pinkish-brown sandstone, mined from the Evans quarry
somewhere among the neighboring hills, and is surrounded
on three sides by a wide veranda, where its guests on sum-
mer evenings are wont" to trip " the light fantastic toe to
the strains of the Evans House paid orchestra, and I wouldn't
wonder a bit if those cured of chronic rheumatism and
gout, sometimes gaily dance the " two-step " in the same
spacious veranda.
In interior arrangement, finish, and furnishings, it is
a model of the architect, the mechanic, and upholster-
er's art, and with its mosaic-floored, fresco-walled lobby,
its velvet carpeted, elegantly furnished parlors, its elec-
troliers, anunciator, and elevator, one might easily — clos-
ing his eyes to outside environments — imagine himself in
one of the palatial hotels at Newport. This magnificent
structure was built by the Dakota Hot Springs Company
in 1891 and 1892, at a cost of $150,000. The work of
construction began on October 21st, 1891, and the big
hostelry was opened for the reception of guests on August
6th, 1892.
Near the " Evans " and connected with it by an inclosed
passage wa}' is the sanitarium for the accommodation of
the hotel guests, as well as the general public. It is a three-
story structure of cut stone, corresponding in color and
similar in style to the hotel, and furnished with the same
luxuriance throughout. The lower floor is handsomely
fitted up for waiting rooms, while the upper stories are
separated into numerous apartments, arranged en suite for
the convenience and comfort of its invalid inmates. The
building is warmed with steam and lighted with electricitj^
is provided with capacious bath pools, and every other
facility for the treatment of patients who are cared for
under the special directions of a skilled j)hysician.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 663
Just across the stream which flows swiftly down the
valley in front of the Evans, is the " Gillespie," a hand-
some four-story building of cut sandstone, surmounted by
a dominant corner tower, and fronted by a double balcony.
Although built and conducted on a somewhat less extensive
and elaborate plan than its neighbor across the brook, it is
fitted out with the most modern appointments, and its
cuisine is reputed to be a marvel of excellence. The
" Gillespie " was built in 1889 and 1890 by Fred. Gillespie,
at a cost of $25,000. Its doors were opened to the public
in June, 1890.
On the opposite corner north of the "Evans," stands
the massive pile of stone, extending from East river to
Main street, called the Minnekahta Block, which is the
largest and most costly business edifice in Hot Springs.
The building, a three-storied pink sandstone structure,
was built by the Minnekahta Company of which Fred. T.
Evans was, it is believed president, at a cost of $35,000.
Conspicious amons other business buildings are the Farsfo-
Dickover Block, and the Phillips & Boomer Block, at the
lower end of the city, the former a three-storied and the
latter a two-storied structure.
Let us now take a stroll around the outer limits of the
city and pay a brief visit to the springs, whose magnetic
waters constitute the stimulus which sustains its vital-
ity. After crossing the bridge that spans the stream, let
us proceed west to the end of Minnekahta avenue, and there
in a recess of the hill which slopes down from the west,
will be found the original jNIinnekahta Spring, in a cleft of
the rock. Over the spring is erected a two-story bath
house, containing sixty or more rooms, provided with
handsome marble bath-tubs, and warmed by steam, where
the whole categorv of baths are administered.
Here may be seen a moccasin-shaped tub, chiseled out of
the solid rock, which is, doubtless, one of the traditional
tubs, in which the Indians took their ablutions, centuries,
perhaps, before they were seen by white men.
664: THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Near by, and conducted in connection with the bath-
house, is a four-story sanitarium and hotel, suitably
arranged and equipped for the convenience and comfort of
its invalid guests, where is prepared the menu which tempts
the delicate appetite of the sick.
Below the old town-site at the lower extremity of the
city is the Catholican spring. Here, too, is a large sani-
tarium — a long three-storied building of cut sandstone and
pressed brick. From a passing glimpse of the structure,
obtained in 1893, it impressed me as being made up of a
main central building with a right and left wing; however,,
it may have been added to since then. At any rate, it has
a large capacity for the accommodation of guests and an
extensive patronage.
Up the valley at the northern extremity of the city will
be found the great Mammoth spring and the still greater
"Plunge," which, for the robust or those needing heroic
treatment, stands without a peer. This happy conception,
wrought out for the amusement of visitors, consists of an
immense basin, 150x60 feet in dimensions, we are told,
with gravel bottom, through which a multitude of springs
bubble up, and walled on all sides with solid stone and
cement masonry. Into this the Mammoth spring jiours its
flood of magnetic, tepid water, at the rate of 100,000 gal-
Jons every hour, the outflow leaving a depth of five feet at
one end and nine at the other.
Around this immense pool is constructed a wide prom-
enade, afibrding ample space for the bathers and on-
lookers. At convenient points in this gallery, are arranged
toboggan slides, spring boards, trapeze ropes, and every
other contrivance known to water sports. Over the whole
is built a lofty, arched structure of iron and glass, heated
by steam, lighted by electricity, and provided with a
hundred well-appointed dressing-rooms, for the use of
bathers and visitors. Within this unique structure an
amusing and animated spectacle is presented, any day
during the wateringr season.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. tlG-^
Just imagine a half a hundred or more men and women,
girls and boys, of nearly all ages and sizes, plump and
lean, diving, ducking, sinking, swimming, floating, floun-
dering, splashing, gasping, screaming, and laughing in the
big pond, at the same time, and you have a true mental
picture of what is frequently to be seen at the " Plunge."
And oh, the joy and fun of it all ! This wonderful structure
of stone, wood, iron, and glass, was built during the sum-
mer and fall of 1890, by the Dakota Hot Springs Com-
pany, at a cost of $20,000. About 300 yards above the
" Plunge " is the Lakota spring, the fountain head of
the Hot Springs' water system.
On the slope of College Hill, is another sanitarium and
bath house, a private institution, affording accommoda-
tions for about twenty patients, established by Dr. A. S.
Stewart. This institution is provided with facilities for
all kinds of baths, — plunge, vapor, spray, Turkish, etc.
An attractive feature of this establishment is a miniature
" plunge " bath, twenty-five feet in diameter, in the center
of the building, which may be supplied with water at any
desired temperature, or any required depth. The bath
rooms are furnished with handsome marble bath tubs, and
floored with colored tiling of attractive design. The in-
stitution is conducted under the careful supervision of Dr.
A. S. Stewart, its proprietor.
In 1890, the town was incorporated as a city under the
general laws of the State, and divided into three wards,
each of which is represented by two members of the city
council, with J. B. Dickover as its first mayor. During
the same year the city was organized into an independent
school district, which was provided with a Board of Edu-
cation, consisting of two members from each of the city
wards.
Subsequently the board issued bonds to the amount of
$20,000 to provide funds for building a new school build-
ing, and in the summer of 1893 the present fine school
edifice was completed. The building which occupies a
<J66 THE BLACK HILLS, OK;
commanding site in the eastern portion of the city, is a
two-storied structure of gra}'' sandstone, divided into six
departments, each of which is generously furnished with
all the needed apparatus for the instruction of pupils. The
school is in a flourishing condition, as is attested by the
large attendance of pupils, the enrollment for the school
year beginning September, 1898, being 325, making an
increase of 319 pupils since the opening of the first public
school in 1883.
HOT SPRINGS FIRE DEPARTMENT.
The Hot Springs Fire Department was first organized on
February 21st, 1891, with Henry Vanatta as its first Chief.
It was first composed of three companies, viz., Hot Springs
Hose Company No. 1, Minnekahta Hose Company, and
Hot Springs Hook and Ladder Company. Subsequently
Hose Company No. 2 was organized and incorporated into
the department.
HOT SPRINGS AVATER AND ELECTRIC LIGHT SYSTEMS.
The Hot Springs water and electric lighting systems
were built during the years 1890-91-92, by the Hot Springs
Water, Light & Power Co., at an aggregate cost of $60,000.
The water system is constructed upon a very ingenious
plan. The water is drawn from the Lakota spring, about
300 yards above the plunge, as before stated, and carried,
or rather it gravitates down to the pumping and power
station, near the center of the city, where it is pumped into
the mains, whence it flows into the service pipes to all parts
of the city. An immense reservoir, seventy feet in diame-
ter and eighteen feet deep, with a holding capacity of over
a half million gallons, is constructed in the northwestern
portion of the city, at an elevation of 200 feet above the
level of the station, which receives the waste or surplus
water pumped into the mains. The Evans Hotel is supplied
from the same source, the water being forced into the
many storied building by hydraulic pressure. The power
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 667
at the station is also used for produciog the arc lights,
while the power and generator for the incandescent lights
are located four miles l)elow the city.
The most important industries of Hot Springs are a large
stucco plant, a flouring and planing mill. The former,
located south of the city, was built in 1893 b_v the Dakota
Hot Springs Co., at a cost of $12,000. Large quantities
of the product of this plant, manufactured from the
immense deposits of gypsum found in that region, are
annually shipped to Omaha and other Western cities, where
it commands a ready market at a handsome profit.
The flouring mill, situated near the northern limits of
the city, was built in 1894, by C. A. & V. G. Peterson.
The plant employs the roller process, and has a capacity of
«ixty barrels of flour per day.
Perhaps stone quarrying may also be classed among the
industries of Hot Springs. At any rate immeasurable
quantities of the finest quality of building stone, of nearl}'
-every color and shade, is found among the neighboring
bills, much of which has been quarried and used in the
construction of the many elegant public and private build-
ings of the city, ard some of which has been shipped to
other localities. The principal quarries of the region are
the "Evans," the " Elm Creek Stone Co.," theOdell Co.,
and the Burke quarries, all of which maj^ in the not dis-
tant future, prove a source of large revenue to their own-
ers, — every facility for the shipment of the surplus product
of these industries being now furnished by the"Elkhorn "
and "Burlington " railways.
Branches of these great commercial arteries were ex-
tended to Hot Springs during the year 1891, the Elkhorn
reaching Hot Springs in May, 1891, and the Burlington
in July, 1891, the former winning the race by about two
months. It was on the approach of these railroads that Hot
Springs entered upon its period of commercial develop-
ment. In 1892 the two companies evidenced their faith
in the permanency of Hot Springs by building a handsome
668 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
cut stone Union depot near the center of the city, in close
proximity to the Evans Hotel.
Besides its five church organizations Hot Springs has the
usual complement of secret societies, common to cities of
its class, among which are the Masonic, Odd Fellows,
Modern Woodmen, A. O. U. W. and Royal Neighbors.
The legal and medical professions are represented by eight
lawyers and five physicians — who, in the very nature of
things, must needs be skilled in the treatment of all the
ailments which the human flesh is heir to.
The credit of the press is maintained by two wide-awake
weekly newspapers, the Hot Springs /Star and Hot Springs
Times-Herald, the former now published by J. A. Stanley,,
the latter by Edward Ames.
Besides the Evans, Gillespie, Hot Springs, and Catholi-
can hotels before mentioned there are the Ferguson, the
Fargo, and other hostelries, aggregating a baker's dozen,
all of which are well patronized during the summer season
when the city is thronged with visitors. It has two banking
institutions, two lumber yards and over fifty other business
establishments of various kinds, and contains a permanent
population of 1,500 enterprising people.
However, while Hot Springs enjoys a profitable trade,,
it is not strictly a commercial city, that is, commerce is
not its principal business. It owes its origin to its springs,
and chiefly because of its springs it exists. It is essen-
tially a health and pleasure resort, where, amid nature's
lavish adornments, supplemented by wonderful creations of
art, the sick and the lame may find health, and the tired
and careworn rest and recreation. Every favorable,
natural condition, conspires with art in making Hot
Springs an ideal resort for the invalid. The wonderful
curative properties of its waters, its altitude, at the golden
mean, between the two extremes of temperature, its loca-
tion sheltered by the encircling hills, from the fierce
storms of winter, and cooled in summer by the refreshing
breezes, which come down, laden with the aromatic frag-
LAST HUNTING GKOUND OF TUK DAKOTAHS. (J^JD
ranee of the pines and the hemlocks, from the canyons of
the mountains, and circulates freely through the valley,
combine to make it a natural sanitarium unequaled else-
where. The fierce extremes of heat and cold, which prove
so trying to the invalid, are unknown in this Bhick Hills
elysium, the thermometer registering an average tempera-
ture of forty-two degrees above zero during the winter
months, the mercury rising to ninety-two degrees Fahren-
heit, during the hottest days of summer. According to
the official record of the weather prophet, the average year
has eighty-eight cloudy, 167 partly cloudy, and 110 days
of perpetual sunshine. These favorable conditions, how-
ever, are confined to a limited area, and doubtless owe their
origin to the locality and the presence of the numerous
hot springs in the region.
But this is not all. Hot Springs is rich in all the scenic
attractions for which the Black Hills has become noted.
It has not only its bubbling springs and gurgling brooks,
its lovers' glen and sylvan retreats, but also its lofty look-
outs, romantic drives, and distant waterfalls, besides being
the point of embarkation for the greatest natural curiosity
in America. Battle Mountain, which affords a compre-
hensive view of hill and dale, valley and plane, for a distance
of sixty miles, dominates the city on the east; Gypsum
Butte, with its variegated stratification, rises upon the west,
while Dennis Peak rears its encroaching barrier on the
south.
On its rapid descent down the valley, through the clefts
of the rocky barriers that encircle the site of Hot Springs
on the south and east, to the Cheyenne river, six miles away ,
Fall river, in its course, dashes over and around huge
blocks of red sandstone, in beautiful rainbow-tinted cas-
cades, forming: what is known as the Minnekahta Falls — a
vision of beauty that would delight the eye of an artist.
The driveway leading to this point of attraction follows the
old stage route through the narrow defiles of the moun-
tains, where trembling, white-faced passengers furtively
670 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
watched for lurking road agents to stalk out and bar the
narrow way in the days before the advent of railroads.
At a point where the road makes a sharp curve, around a
point of rocks, a tall cliff is pointed out, as the lookout
from where the signal of the stage's approach was passed
to the robbers in waiting below, but whether there was ever
a regular " hold-up " in that particular locality is not
known.
CASCADE.
In a picturesque valley, surrounded by high hills, about
nine miles southwest of Hot S)>rings, is situated the little
hamlet, called Cascade, where is also a group of springs,
said to possess valuable medicinal properties. Cascade,
which derives its name from the beautiful waterfall that
dashes down the shelving rocks a little below, caused by
the overflow of these springs, once threatened to become
a formidable rival of Hot Springs as a fashionable resort.
About nine years ago a syndicate of capitalists pur-
chased a large tract of land, including the springs, platted
it, and laid the foundation of a health resort, by building
a large sanitarium, dancing pavilion, etc., but, it is be-
lieved, the enterprise proved a failure, and a costly experi-
ment to its promoters. The place is a popular and pleasant
resort for outing parties from Hot Springs, who go there,
provided with lunch baskets, music, etc., and spend the day
in dancing, bathing, and rambling about at their own sweet
will.
WIND CAVE.
On the southern slope of the Hills, within the limits of
Custer County, about twelve miles north of Hot Springs,
is the famous '* Wind Cave," the greatest natural attrac-
tion in this great wonderland. This remarkable cavern
with its 100 miles of labyrinthine passages and chambers,
already explored, was accidentally discovered, it is said, by
Edmund Petty and a party of cowboys, some seventeen
LAST IIUXTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. GTl
years ago. They were not looking for caves, but a peculiar
sound, not accounted for by the ordinary processes of
nature, attracted their attention and led to the investiga-
tion which resulted in the discovery of the cave.
Through an opening at the base of a hill, long draught*
of air are literally and perpetually inhaled and exhaled,
producing a sound, which to those in " mehincholy moods,"
strongly resembles the mournful soughing of the wind
through the branches of a pine tree ; but how long this
hoary cave has chanted its solemn requiem it is impossible
to know. Near the entrance, at the bottom of a dry
ravine, a small hotel has been erected by the proprietor for
the accommodation of visitors, who are given safe con-
duct through its many intricate passages and vaulted cham-
bers, for a reasonable fee. An inclosed passageway leads^
from the hotel to the entrance, where the lifting of a trap
door reveals a long flight of stairs, which appears to de-
scend down, down to the underworld. I am told, how-
ever, that the flight ends at the threshold of the " Bridal
Chamber," which assertion is doubtless true. I went no^
farther than the head of the stairs, as looking down into the
darkness proved sufficient for me; besides having no ambi-
tion to crawl abjectly on hands and knees, through small
apertures, leading from one chamber to another, as I was
told would be necessary, I was quite content to remain
near the surface, and did remain, which precludes the pos-
sibility of my giving an accurate description of the beauties
and mysteries of the great cavern from personal knowledge.
However, according to the descriptions given by those who
have explored its recesses, it is, in many respects, the
greatest natural wonder on the globe as far as known.
Hundreds of passages and vaulted chambers, more or
less spacious, profusely ornamented with brilliant crystal
encrustations, wrought into various honeycomb designs,
which have been, probably, long centuries in process of
formation, some with filaments so fragile that apparently
the slightest touch, or even the faintest breath, might de-
€72 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stroy the delicate fabric, have been explored and named
from some real or fancied resemblance of the formations
to familiar objects. Among these are the " Bridal Cham-
ber " near the entrance, with an area of 150 feet, " Capital
Hill," the " Bell Chamber," where a chime of sweet toned
bells are rung, the tones being evoked from a series of
stalactites, by human hands, the " Garden of Eden," the
" Tabernacle " and the " Standing Rock " chamber, where
Johnson, the mind-reader, found the hidden pin a few years
ago. It is told that the wonderful beauty and brilliancy
of the various translucent formations of these chambers,
when illuminated by the tapers of visitors, is beyond the
power of language to describe. Through the eye alone can
an adequate conception of this mammoth Black Hills cave
be gained.
By boarding a train of the " Burlington " road which
runs from Hot Springs westward along the borders of Hot
Brook, in about thirty minutes we reach Minnekahta junc-
tion. This is the point where the branch short line from
Hot Springs joins the Black Hills extension of the B. & M.
Railway, and where passengers and their belongings are
transferred to a waiting train which carries them to the
great " American Carlsbad."
EDGEMONT.
At the southern gateway to the Black Hills, about fifteen
miles in an air line, but several more miles by the curving
lines of the Burlington Railway, southwest of Minnekahta,
is situated the enterprising young city of Edgemont. Here
the road divides, one division turning to the right into the
Hills, which it traverses through almost impenetrable can-
yons and hills from their southern to their extreme northern
limits, the other rounding the base of the Hills to the north
and northwest towards the Big Horn Mountains. Here
the company have established a division station, erected a
round-house, repair shop, hotel, etc., which has made the
town a place of no small importance.
LAST HUNTING (JROUNI) OK TlIK DAKOTAHS. (573
The town, which was hiid out Jind platted iu 1891 by the
Lincoln Land Co., is adiniiably located on the south bank
of the Cheyenne river near the mouth of Cottonwood
creek, and its broad streets and squares interspersed here
and there with small groves, gives it an exceedingly attract-
ive appearance. Its most unique and inviting feature,
however, is a miniature lake situated in the center of the
city, whose placid bosom is rutHed by the tiny keels of
several small pleasure boats, which ply its waters through
the summer, but which is utilized as a skating rink during
the winter months, when the young people hold high
carnival on its glassy surface.
The region surrounding Edgemont, which comprises an
extensive area of tine agricultural and grazing lands,
capable of supporting a dense population, is rapidly filliuij
up with enterprising settlers, both farmers and stock men.
All varieties of grain and vegetables are successfully
grown along the valleys, and numerous herds of cattle,
horses, and sheep may be seen grazing on the hills and
plateaus adjacent to the town. To supplement the natural
moisture, the lack of which has somewhat retarded the
settlement of the region, a large, irrigating canal, fourteen
miles in length, fed by the never failing waters of the
Cheyenne river, has been constructed, through which, by
lateral ditches, hundreds of acres of land have been placed
under irrigation.
Edgemont, with a population of 800, has two churches,
a commodious stone school building and a flourishing school.
It sustains one newspaper, — a weekly publication, and
what is most interesting to note, the paper is conducted by
Harry Godard, who, as many of the old-timers will doubt-
less remember, carried the first mall over the trail from
Fort Laramie to Custer during the winter of 1875-i).
Several handsome business blocks grace the main street of
the town, whose trade along the different lines compares
favorably with any other town of its size in the Black
Hills. A number of important industrial and commercial
4.3
674
THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
enterprises are under process of construction, amono; which
are a grindstone manufactory, a woolen mill, and a smelter,
for whose surplus products the Burlington Eailway will
bring a ready market to their doors. These enterprises
indicate a public spirit, on the part of its business men,
which is bound ultimately to bring its reward.
The other towns of Fall River County are Oelrich,
once quite an important cattle shipping station on the line
of the Elkhorn railroad, Smithwick, Hat Creek, Ardmore,
and Evans.
LAST HUNTING GUOUNU OF THE DAKOTAHS. 675
CHAPTEK XLIV.
BUTTE COUNTY.
Prior to 1880, nearly all of the territory now embraced
within the limits of Butte County, and the wide scope of rich
grazing lands lying contiguous thereto on the north, was
practicall}'^ unknown to white men. Until that time, with
the exception of a few herds along the valleys of lower
Belle Fourche and Redwater, and the adjacent uplands, the
region was the undisputed home of the buffalo, which,
" pity 'tis," owing to their wanton killing by red and white
hunters alike, had become nearly extinct before the advent
of white settlers. About this time, the attention of cattle
owners in Colorado, Kansas, and other distant parts, was
attracted to this paradise of the stock grower, and they
began to drive their herds from the overcrowded ranges
of the South and Southwest to the untrammeled freedom of
the Northern plains, which henceforth became the stamping-
ground of the dashing, festive cowboy.
Soon after, the permanent settlement of the valleys of
the Redwater and Belle Fourche and their tributaries
began. Among the first settlers in the valley of the Red-
water and Belle Fourche were: Wm. Grimmett, Conrad
Berg, Wm. Hayden, Ed. Buford, John McClure, D. F.
Harrison, P. B. Stearns, J. M. Eaton, A. Giles, and Peter
Brochn. The first to settle on Hay creek were: J. A.
Scottney, Wm. Fieldsend, and John C. Mathias.
With the increase of population grew the demand for
county government for that section of the unorganized por-
tion of Dakota Territory, and a movement to that end
culminated in the creation of Butte County, by an act of
the Territorial Legislature of 1883, the county being eon-
676
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
structed from Mandan, and a small slice from the northern
border of the organized county of Lawrence.
Butte County, comprising an area of some 2,340 square
miles, a goodly portion of which is traversed by a number
of never-failing streams, contains some of the finest asri-
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 677
cultural and grazing lands to he found in the Black Hills
or the West. Along the valleys of the principal streams
and their tributaries are thousands of acres of arable lands,
whose natural productiveness has been increased by irriga-
tion where all kinds of cereals and vegetables are raised to
perfection. The water for irrigating purposes is furnished
by the Red water Land and Canal Company, through an
immense irrigating canal which carries over 4,000 inches
of water. This water is taken from the Red water river,
four miles above its confluence with the Belle Fourche,
extending down the latter stream a distance of about forty
miles.
There are yet within the limits of Butte County many
thousands of acres of unclaimed land, open to settlement
under the United States laws, much of which can be placed
under similar irrigation, by taking water from the Belle
Fourche by ditches, and much more of which can be made
prolific by artesian irrigation. It has been satisfactorily
demonstrated that the great artesian basin underlies Butte
County, and that artesian irrigation can be made a prac-
tical success. It is believed by many who have made the
subject a study that the day is not far distant when the
so-called barren and unproductive land of that region will
be made to blossom like the rose, and yield an abundance
of fruitage through the medium of artesian irrigation.
On the principal streams draining the county, and their
tributaries, there is an abundant growth of oak, ash,
Cottonwood, and other deciduous trees, and the interven-
ing divides are intersected by numerous small valleys and
gulches, where thousands of cattle and horses find shelter
from the storms of winter, and feed upon their nutritious
cured grasses. As a stock-raising region Butte County
stands pre-eminent among the counties of the Black Hills,
and in point of numbers and quality of stock raised, is
easily the peer of any section of equal area in the whole
Wide West. According to the assessment of 1895, there
were in Butte and the unorganized counties attached to
678 THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
Butte for taxation purposes, 45,000 head of cattle, and
10,000 head of horses roaming over the wide range, with-
out artificial food or shelter. At a reasonable estimate of
increase, there are to-day at least 60,000 head of cattle
feeding on those ranges. The raising and shipment of
stock is the paramount industry of Butte County.
In 1898 Butte County had an assessed valuation of
$432,557, a bonded indebtedness of $14,848.92, and out-
standing warrants amounting to $23,767.48, making a total
indebtedness of only $38,616.46. The commissioners
appointed to organize the county government were : Henry
Chamberlain, J. J. Woolston, and Christian Flucken.
The other first county officers were: Harry Stevens,
Sheriff; C. F. Johnston, Register of Deeds and ex oflScio
County Clerk; John Hildebrand, Treasurer ; C. H. Gores,
Probate Judge ; Wm. Mitchell, Coroner ; G. S. Richards,
Surveyor; Geo. M. Browning, Assessor; Peter Miller,
Superintendent of Schools. The first meeting of the com-
missioners was held on July 23d, 1883, at Minnesela,
which, being the first and only town of any importance in
the newly created county, was naturally made the county
seat.
MINNESELA.
Minnesela, situated on Redwater creek, was laid out and
platted by A. A. Chouteau and D. T. Harrison in 1882, on
one of the prettiest sites in all that region of country.
Taking advantage of the superb water power afforded by
that stream, the founders of the town proceeded without
delay to build and equip with all the best appliances, a
large flouring mill, which, with the additional prestige
gained by being made the county seat, brought the town
into considerable importance. It maintained its position as
the leading town of the county and entrejjot oi all the cattle
ranches of the region until 1891, when the founding of
Belle Fourche soon robbed it of that distinction.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAHS. 67i«
BELLE rOURCHE.
Belle Fouiche, the capital and present metropolis of
Butte County, is situated in the valley of the Belle Fourche
river — from which it derived its name — about twenty-
two miles as the crow Hies, and twenty-nine miles by rail,
nearly north of Deadwood, on the line of the Fremont,
Elkhorn & Missouri Valley Railway, to which the town
owes its origin.
This railroad was completed to that point, and the first
shipment of cattle made, on September 16th, 1890, and
during the following two months 1,300 car loads of beef
cattle were transported over the line to Eastern markets.
The station was opened for business on December 28th,
1890, in charge of H, H. Giles, and in the spring of 1891
Belle Fourche was platted by the Pioneer Town-site Co., and
lots placed on the market for sale on the 9th of June, 1891,
H. W. Brown purchasing the first lot. The town-site com-
pany set the pace for the upbuilding of the town by erect-
ing a two-story frame building for a hotel, which was fol-
lowed bv a structure erected by Thos. McCumsey. From
the first the town had a steady and permanent growth, as
in the nature of things it should have, for, perhaps, no
town in the Hills began its history under more promising
conditions, in that a speed}- market for the product of the
region's chief industry had already been brought to its door.
During the first year, 1891, several important private
enterprises were inaugurated, among the first of which was a
large flouring plant known astheBelleFourcheFlouringMill,
established by B. F. Teal and F. E. Bennett, expert millers
from the great Hour manufacturing city of Minneapolis.
The mill, which is equipped with the most approved facil-
ities, has a capacity of 125 barrels per day of flour, manu-
factured exclusively from wheat grown in the neighboring
valleys, — which fact be speaks the excellenceof the product.
The water power for operating the mil! is taken by ditch
from Redwater creek a short distance below.
680
THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
LAST HUNTING OKOUND OF THK OAKOTAIIS. <)8l
The first newspaper published in Belle Fouiche, called
the Belle Fourche Weekly Bee, was established in 1891 by
W. K. Fraser and Geo. E. Hare, under the editorial man-
ai^ement of the last named member of the firm, whose
fluent pen was ever wielded in the interests of Belle Fourche
and Butte County. The average citizen of the Black Hills
needs no formal introduction to Geo. E. Hare, as his name
has been prominently before the public for a number of
years, having served the people as their representative in the
South Dakota State Legislature of 1896. He will also be
remembered as the captain of a troop of the Rough Riders
of the Third Cavalry Regiment of South Dakota Volun-
teers, who marched bravely away from Fort Meade in June,
1898, to fight for Cuba Libre. Of course he never faced
the Mauser bullets of the Dons, but that wasn't his fault,
you know. Later, under the management of the Bee Pub-
lishing Company, the paper was largely instrumental in
securing the location of the permanent county seat at Belle
Fourche.
During the fall of 1895 the " Bee " fell into the proprie-
torship of DeKay Brothers, publishers of the Whitewood
Plaindeahr and residents of Whitewood, after which it
was published for a time as a supplement of that paper.
Later it came into the possession of its present publishers,
Messrs. Ralston & Glassie.
In 1892 a number of enterprising citizens conceived and
set on foot a project for supplying the town with water
from the great artesian basin, which was believed to under-
lie that portion of Dakota. In furtherance of the project,
a stock company was organized and some $1,500 raised
for the purpose of sinking an experimental well. The
experiment proved successful beyond the most sanguine
expectations of the projectors of the enterprise. An
encouraging flow of water was soon encountered, which,
upon reaching the third artesian flow at a depth of 525
feet, increased to a volume of 100,000 gallons every
twenty-four hours, affording an ample supply for all pur-
682 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
poses of pure, soft, wholesome water. This artesian well
is the source of supply for the present water system of the
town.
At the fall election of 1894, Belle Fourche was made
the permanent county seat of Butte County by popular vote,
and during the same year a substantial two-story court-
house was built by the citizens of the new capital, without
cost to the count}^ which gave the town a new impetus.
On September 25th, 1895, however, its progress was
arrested by a disastrous conflagration, which wiped out
over two-thirds of the business portion of the town.
Nothing daunted by the calamity, the losers, with charac-
teristic Western pluck, were within twenty-four hours
thereafter, hard at work among the smoldering ruins,
clearing away the blackened debris, preparatory to rebuild-
ing, and in three months after the fire, buildings aggre-
gating in value over $25,000 were erected or nearing
completion in the burnt district.
Soon after the founding of the town in the spring of
1891, a school district was organized, and subsequently a
commodious two-story school building, constructed of home
manufactured brick, was erected, which to-day affords
ample educational facilities for the children of the town.
Besides the courthouse and public school building Belle
Fourche has two neat church edifices, owned respectively
by the Congregational and Methodist societies. It also has
several secret organizations, among which are Masonic and
Odd Fellows, and other lodges.
The present Butte County Bank, of which John Clay, Jr.,
is President, and J. F. Summers, Cashier, was established
in October, 1891, since which time the institution has had
a somewhat eventful history. The first building erected
by the bank went up in smoke, on September 25th, 1895,
when the two-storied stone structure now occupied by the
institution was built upon the ashes of the old. On June
28th, 1897, a bold raid was made upon the bank by a band
of six robbers, who, after securing a comparatively small
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TIIK DAKOTAIIS. ')8H
amount of its assets, made good their escape. Four of
them were afterwards captured.
Belle Fourche now affords patronage for two newspaper.^,
viz.: the Belle Fourche Bee, whose history has been noted,
and the Belle Fourche Times. The latter was established
by Messrs. Battenberd & Martin, early in 1896, the initial
number appearing on January 2d of that year, and the fact
that Chester Martin conducts the editorial department of the
sheet is a sufficient guaranty for its complete success. The
writer of this history put Chester through a three years'
course of sprouts, when he was a big, brainy lad, well up
in his teens, and, well, you know the old adage: " Just as
the twig is bent the tree inclines." The paper is now
owned by Martin & Shocklay.
By a conservative estimate, Belle Fourche has 500 per-
manent inhabitants who, together with the rural popula-
tion of the valleys, keep up the life of trade for at least
eight months of the year. The town bears no suggestion
of metropolitanism, and makes no parade or bluster, except
during the shipping season. Its business houses, bank,
offices, hotels, stores, and shops, for the most part occupy
a comparatively small space along the main street, while
the resident portion lies on the outer limits, where neat
frame structures surrounded b}' well-kept yards bespeak
the general thrift of the people. The business of Belie
Fourche does not depend upon the local every-day trade
but largely upon that of the many cattle outfits Avhich peri-
odically come from long distances to replenish their stock
of supplies.
Belle Fourche, being the most accessible shipping point
for the great herds of beef cattle, raised on the wide range
which stretches away to the north, and into Southeastern
Montana and Western Wyoming, is by far the most im-
portant shipping station in the Northwest. For the years
1896, 1897, 1898, there were shipped from that station to
Eastern markets, 7,500 carloads of beef cattle, amounting
in the aoorregate to something over five and one-half million
684 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
dollars, which, of course, proved a source of large revenue
to the town. All of the cattle outfits and ranchmen, within
a radius of 100 miles north and west, make Belle Fourche
their supply point, creating a large volume of trade for
business houses of all kinds.
CATTLE SHIPPING INDUSTRY.
During the shipping season, which begins usually some
time in August, and ends about the last of November, Belle
Fourche presents a iitirring and exciting scene, and what
with the awful bellowing of the great herds as they are
l)eing rushed into the crowded cattle pens, to await their
turns to be driven aboard the cars alongside, and the sud-
den brilliant dashes of the picturesque cowboys after the
recalcitrant bovines, which now and then escape from the
lines, pandemonium reigns supreme. During these cattle
carnivals, the cowboy is very much in evidence everywhere,
and wherever the cowboy is in force times are bound to
be exceedingly lively. I must confess here to something
of an admiration for cowboys despite their faults. Of
course, they have been known to fire random shots as they
dashed along the streets of certain towns of the Hills in
the early days, and to ride their bronchos, rough-shod,
through the doors and up to the bars of saloons, and such
playful pranks, but, after all, they are, in many respects,
very manly fellows. They are perfect types of muscular
development, endure hardships that would kill an ordinary
mortal, are dead shots and the most expert horsemen in
the world. Moreover, they love their bronchos better than
anything else earthly, and regard horse-stealing as the
meanest crime known to the unwritten law of the range.
The average cowboy is honest, kindhearted, generous to a
fault, and, in short, is not half so bad as he is painted.
BUILDING OF WYOMING X' MISSOURI RIVER R. R.
An enterprise which promises much future commercial
importance to Belle Fourche, is the recent building of the
LAST HUNTINC GROUND OF THE DAKOTAILS. 685
Wyoming and Missouri River Railroad from that point to
the Hay creek coal fields, situated about eighteen miles
southwest, just over the eastern boundary line of Wyoming.
Ever since the discovery of coal in that region in 187(),
when hostile Indians were much more plentiful in those
parts than white men, the possibility of a railroad to the
mines has been a dream of their owners. Facilities for
putting the product of these mines on the market, the lack
of which has heretofore greatly retarded their develop-
ment, are now furnished. After years of waiting the
road is a consummated fact.
A company of Eastern capitalists organized under the title
of The Wyoming and Missouri River Railroad Co., with Geo.
M. Nix as president, and in June, 1898, the work of grading
was commenced along the line of the road, which was fully
completed and equipped by January 1st, 1899. The suc-
cessful carrying out of this project may be looked upon
only as the beginning of the end, the promise of things
yet to come.
The product of the mines, which made the building of
this line possible, is bituminous in character, but of a
dense texture and splendid quality, and will find a good
demand in the Hills for fuel and gold reduction purposes,
as also, now that facilities for transportation are furnished,
a ready outside market for long years to come. Of course,
the full extent and future productiveness of the coal
measures underlying that region of the Hills, can hardl}'
be estimated in their present stage of development, but it
is believed by geologists that the deposit is practically
inexhaustible.
CATTLE OUTFITS OF BLACK HILLS.
Besides those mentioned the other settlements of Butte
County are: Snoma, Butte, Vale, and Empire, situated on
the Belle Fourche river.
The cattle outfits which ship stock from Black Hills
686
THE BLACK HILLS ; OR,
stations, the major part of which is shipped from Belle
Fourche, are as follows : —
Range.
Little Missouri
Moreau River
Bad River
White River
Cheyenne River
Box Elder...
Battle Creek,
Sand Hills..
Hat Creek.
Deer Ear . .
No. OK
Owners. Head.
. .The Franklin Live Stock Co 25,000
. .The Y. T. Cattle Co 8,000
. .James M. Carey 10,000
. .Driscoll Bros 5,000
. . Standard Cattle Co 12,000
. .The Sheidly Cattle Co 30,000
. .Lake Tomb and Lemmon 25,000
..M.J. Barclay 2,000
. . Sam Sheffield 2,000
. . C. K. Howard 10,000
. . Peter Duhamel 10,000
. . Scott Phillips 4,000
. . Corbin Morris 10,000
. . Maurice Kelliher 8,000
. . Major W. W. Anderson 5,000
. . J. M. Humphrey 5,000
. .H. A. Dawson 4,000
. .E. Holcomb 10,000
. .Fred Holcomb 4,000
. . Laddingen Bros 2,000
. . Frank Stewart 2,000
. . F. C. Huss 2,000
. . Connor Bros 8,000
. .Ed. Stenger 4,000
. .G. G. Ware 4,000
. .Bartlett Richards 8,000
. .T. B. Irwin 2,000
. .Chas. Lampkin 2,000
..J. A. Hale 2,000
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAH.S. 687
CHAPTER XLY.
THE ORGANIZATION OF DAKOTA TERRITORY AND ITS SUB-
SEQUENT STRUGGLE FOR STATEHOOD.
Out of the fairest and best portions of the vast domain
acquired by the United States from France during the third
year of the present century — known as the "Louisiana
Purchase" — was the Dakota Territory created. The
treaty for the cession of this valuable acquisition of terri-
tory, which extended from the Mississippi river on the East
to the Rocky Mountains on the West, and from the British
Dominion on the North to the Great Gulf on the South, was
negotiated and entered into by Mr. Livingstone, then
United States resident Minister at Paris, and James Mon-
roe, who was sent thither for the purpose, and a French
commission, in April, 1803. By the terms of this treaty
the United States agreed to pay the French government
the sum of $15,000,000, and to assume claims of American
citizens against that government to the amount of
$11,250,000.
By reference to any modern United States History, com-
plete information in reference to claims as to the original
ownership of this ceded territory, its cession by France to
Spain, its retrocession by Spain to France, its cession by
the latter to the United States, and the subsequent carving
and recarving of the generous domain into Territories and
States, with all the prolonged bitter struggle for the
extension and restriction of slavery in connection there-
with, may be obtained; hence, any further recital of facts
already a matter of common history svould be superfluous.
SIOUX TREATIES.
When the States formed from the Northwest Territory
began to till up, the Sioux, having in 1837 ceded all their
688 THE BLACK HILLS; Oil,
lands east of the Mississippi river to the government, were
transferred to reservations on the other side of the Fatlier
of Waters, from which time all that portion of the Louisi-
ana Purchase not included in the State of Missouri and the
Territory of Arkansas was regarded and named the
" Indian Country."
Ill 1851 a treaty was concluded by which the Sioux ceded
to the United States an immense extent of territory, west
of the Mississippi river, which included a narrow strip of
land along the eastern border of Dakota, covering the
present sites of Sioux Falls, Flandreau, and Medary, — the
first piece of land relinquished by them in what is now the
State of South Dakota. Owing to what the Indians
regarded as " bad faith " on the part of the government
in fulfilling the conditions of the treaty, years of Indian
hostilities followed, during which the soil of Minnesota was
freely dyed with the blood of its settlers. They were
finally encountered and subdued b}' Gen. Harney at the
battle of Little Blue Water in September, 1855, and a
treaty of peace followed, which, however, secured only a
temporary peace, as hostilities broke out from time to time,
which were finally suppressed by Gen. Sibley in 1863.
In 1858 the final treaty, by which the Sioux relinquished
to the United States all territory claimed b}' them in what
is now South Dakota, was negotiated. In the fall of 1857
they were persuaded through the influence of J. B. S. Todd,
then post trader at Fort Randall, assisted by Chas. F.
Picotte, to send a delegation of chiefs to Washington to
confer with the Indian Department, which, in April, 1858,
culminated in the negotiation of a treaty ceding every
square acre of their land, except the present Yankton
reservation, to the United States.
Upon the consummation of the treaty, — even before
its ratification, many, who were eagerly waiting at the
threshold for the quashing of the Indian title, crossed the
line and settled upon the ceded lands, and built cabins, but
they were summarily driven off by the Indians and their
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAIIS. ()89
cabins destroyed. Upon the advent in July of the agent,
A. H. Reddeld, of Detroit, Michigan, who was appointed
to take charge of Indian affairs, buildings were erected and
the Indians speedily removed to the agencies set apart for
them. This done, hirge numbers settled upon the land,
locating principally at Elk Point, Vermillion and Yankton,
near the junction of the Big Sioux and Missouri rivers.
Prior to the treaty of 1858, attempts had been made to lo-
cate on this territory, but the would-be settlers were promptly
driven off by the hostile Sioux. The first attempt at settle-
ment was made in the region of the Sioux Falls, as early as
1856 by what was known as " The Western Town Com-
pany," from Dubuque, Iowa. Prominent among its mem-
bers were W. W. Brookings, Dr. J. L. Phillips, and John
McCIellan, who, despite the inhospitable reception accorded
them by the natives at the first attempt, returned, a few-
months later of the same year, and located a half-section
of land near the Falls, — perhaps the very ground upon
which the metropolis of South Dakota now stands, and to
them, doubtless, belongs the distinction of having located
the first acre of grround in South Dakota.
Again, in May, 1857, a company styled " The Dakota
Land Company" composed of W. H. Nobles, S. A.
Medary, E. J. De Witt, A. G. Fuller, Samuel F. Brown,
Jas. W. Lynd, and others, hailing from St. Paul, Min-
nesota, made their advent in the valley of the Big Sioux
river, and first located Medary, named in honor of the
Governor of Minnesota, thence proceeding down the valley
they located the town-site of Flandreau, named in honor
of Judge Flandreau, of St. Paul. Subsequently some of
the party extended their explorations down the river to
the Falls where they found just two of the early pioneers,
W. W. Brookings and John McCIellan, who had returned
and tenaciously stayed by their claims. How long this
last party were suffered to remain unmolested, in the
valley of the Big Sioux, is not known — supposedly not
long.
44
690 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
The settlers oa the ceded territory, tinding themselves
without constituted authority to exercise the political func-
tions, proceeded at once to organize a provisional territorial
government. On September 18th, 1858, the people of the
Territory assembled in convention at Sioux Falls, and by
resolution authorized an election to be held on the 4th day
of October, for choosing members to compose a Provisional
Legislature. At the first session of the Provisional Legisla-
ture, Henry Masters was chosen President of the Council,
and S. J. Albright, Speaker of the House, and moreover,
it is related that Henry Masters was also elected Governor
of the irregularly organized Territory. During its session
a memorial to Congress was formulated, praying for a reg-
ularly organized territorial government, and A. G. Fuller
was selected to represent the petitioners before that body.
In 1859 similar memorials were prepared and adopted at
Yankton and Vermillion, for territorial organization, to
which Congress turned a deaf ear. Again, on the 15th of
January, 1861, a final mass convention of the settlers as-
sembled at Yankton and prepared an urgent memorial to
Congress, which was sent to Washington bearing the signa-
tures of nearly 600 people. At last, in February, 1861,
on the eve of the great Civil War, the Organic Act creat-
ing the Territory of Dakota, was passed and approved by
President Buchanan on March 2(1, 1861.
The original Dakota Territory comprised not only the
present States of North and South Dakota, but, besides the
whole of the State of Montana, the greater portion of
Wyoming and the eastern half of Idaho, embracing an area
of some 350,000 square miles, constituting the largest
organized Territory in the United States.
In April, 1861, Dr. Wm. Jayne, of Springfield, Illinois,
was appointed the first executive of the Territory of
Dakota by President Lincoln, arriving at Yankton, to enter
upon the discharge of his duties, on May 27tb, 1861. On
the 17th of March, 1862, the first Territorial Legislature
convened at Yankton, the capitid city. According to a
LAST IIUNTIN(f GROUND OF THK DAIvOTAIIS. 691
census taken at the time the population of the Territory,
iu the spring of 18G2, numbered something less than
3,000.
Appended is a complete list of the first officers of the
new Territory : —
Wm. Jayne, of Illinois, Governor; John Hutchinson, of
Minnesota, Secretary ; Philomen Bliss, of Ohio, Chief
Justice ; L. P. Williston, of Pennsylvania and J. L. Will-
iams, of Tennessee, District Judges; \V. E. Gleason, of
Maryland, United States Attorney ; W. P. Schaffer, United
States Marshal; Geo. D. Hill, of Michigan, United States
Surgeon-General; W. A. Burleigh, of Pennsylvania,
United States Agent for Yankton Indians: H. A. Hoff-
man, of New York, Agent for the Poncas.
Members of the first Territorial Legislature were as fol-
lows: —
In the Council: John H. Shober, President; James
Tufts, Secretary; W. R. Goodfellow, Engrossing and En-
rolling Clerk; Rev. S. W. Ingham, Chaplain; Charles F.
Picotte, Sergeant-at-Arms ; E. B. Wixon, Messenger; W.
W. Warford, Fireman.
House: Geo. M. Pinney, Speaker; J. R. Hanson, Chief
Clerk; James M. Allen, Assistant Clerk; Daniel Gift'ord,
Enrolling Clerk; M. B. Smith, Engrossing Clerk; M. I).
Metcalf, Chaplain; James Somers, Sergeant-at-Arms; A.
B. Smith, Messenger; Ole Anderson, Fireman.
Conditions during the first four years of the existence of
Dakota Territory were by no means favorable to its growth
and advancement. In the summer of 1862, just after the
machinery of the Territorial Government was put in suc-
cessful operation, the most aggressive hostilities known to
the West broke out among the Sioux, which greatly retarded
the settlement of the new Territory.
Notwithstanding this drawback, and the fact that the
people of the North had meanwhile grappled with, and put
down a mighty rebellion, and the further fact that, in 1862,
the great Territory of Idaho was constructed out of Dakota,
692 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
which turned the tide of emigration to the newly dis-
covered gold mines on the eastern slope of the Kocky
Mountains, and subsequently the carving out of Wyoming
in 1868, the population of Dakota had expanded from 2,400
in 1862, to 14,181 in 1870.
The close of the first decade developed a general desire
on the part of the people of the southern half of the Ter-
ritory for division and Statehood from which time until
its accomplishment in 1889, it stood waiting and periodically
knocking at the door of Congress for admission. The
first movement to that end was made in January, 1871,
when a memorial to Congress was adopted, praying for
division on the forty-sixth parallel. To make a long story
short, similar memorials were adopted successively in 1872
and 1874, and again in January, 1877. From this time
the Black Hills was a potent factor in the movement for
division — whose people for the most part favored atripar-
tition of the Territory, the Black Hills to be one of the
triplets.
In 1881 Congress was memorialized to divide the Ter-
ritory into three States, but at no time was admission as
one State desired by many.
As petitions were unavailing, a large number of the
leading citizens of the Territory visited Washington, dur-
ing the winter of 1881-2, and urged upon Congress the
enactment of a law enabling South Dakota to form a State
Constitution, but, although a bill to that effect was favor-
ably reported in committee, it did not become a law.
The removal of the territorial capital from Yankton to
Bismarck, at this time, it having held its last session at
Yankton in 1883, by no means lessened the desire for State-
hood on the part of South Dakota, so the people, having
resolved to work out the problem without the aid or con-
sent of Congress, called a convention to be held at Sioux
Falls on September 4th, 1883, for the purpose of framing
a State Constitution. The people were represented by 150
delegates who formulated a document which was submitted
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF TlIK DAKOTAHS. 093
to the voters at the leguhvr November election, resulting in
a majority of 5,622 votes in its favor.
Again, in pursuance of an Act passed by the Territorial
Legislature, providing for same, another Constitutional
Convention was held at Sioux Falls on September 8th,
1885, when a new Constitution was framed, and submitted
to the people at the next general election, which was
this time ratified by a majority of 18,661 votes. State
ofiicers and a Legislature were also elected, Arthur C. Mel-
lette being chosen as chief executive of the provisional
State government. On the second Monday of December,
1885, the Legislature met at Huron, the temporary capital,
and during its session elected G. C. Moody of Lawrence
County, and A. J. Edgerton of Mitchell, United States
Senators.
As no congressional action was taken in the matter,
these various popular movements brought South Dakota no
nearer a State government Je/ac/o than before. At last,
however, after a prolonged and bitter struggle of eighteen
years on the part of the people of the southern half of the
Territory, North and South Dakota came to the parting of
the ways, and, together with Montana and Washington,
were admitted on an equal footing to the sisterhood of
States, under the provisions of the famous "Omnibus
Bill," approved February 22nd, 1889.
According to the provisions of the Enabling Act, elections
were held on Tuesday after the first Monday in May, 1889,
for the election of delegates for Constitutional Conventions
for North and South Dakota, to be held at Bismarck, and
Sioux Falls, respectively on the fourth day of July, 188i>.
With certain revisions and amendments, the Sioux Falls
Convention adopted the constitution of the provisional
State government of 1885, which was again submitted to
the electors of the State and approved by a sweeping
majority. The members of the Third Constitutional Con-
vention from the Black Hills were: D. Carson and Chas.
W. Thomas, Deadwood ; C. L. Wood and V. T. McGilli-
694 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
cuddy, Kapid City: John Scollard, Sturgis; W. S.
O'Brien, Lead; J. W. Thompson, Whitewood ; Sandford
Parker, Oelrichs.
The first Legislature of the State of South Dakota met at
Pierre, the temporary capital, which has since become
permanent, on the fifteenth day of October, 1889, and on
the seventeenth elected G. C. Moody of Deadvvood ; and
R. F. Pettigrew of Sioux Falls, United States Senators.
On receipt of a certified copy of the Constitution, a*
ratified by the qualified electors of the State, Benjamin
Harrison, by proclamation on the 2d day of November,
1889, declared the admission of North and South Dakota
complete.
The first State officers of South Dakota were: Governor,
Arthur C. Mellette ; Lieutenant-Governor, James H.
Fletcher ; Secretary of State, A. O. Ringsrud : State Treas-
urer, W. F. Smith; State Auditor, Louis C, Taylor; At-
torney-General, Robert Dollard ; Superintendent of Public
Instruction, Gilbert L, Pinkham ; Commissioner of School
and Public Lands, Osmer H. Parker; Public Examiner, H.
E. Blanchard; Commissioner of Immigration, F. H.
Hagerty ; Veterinary Surgeon, Dr. D. E. Collins.
Members of the first State Legislature of South Dakota
from the Black Hills were : —
Of the Senate : Frank J. Washabaugh and Chas. Par-
sons, Lawrence County: A. W. Bangs, Pennington;
Edward S. Galvin, Meade; A. S. Stewart, Fall River.
Of the House : Cyrus Cole and A. S. May, Custer County ;
H. A. Godard, Fall River ;R. B. Hughes and Joseph Jolly,
Pennington; W. S. O'Brien, Sol. Star, John Wolzmuth,
W. H. Parker, Jas. Anderson, and Robert Graham, of
Lawrence ; M. M. Cooper and S. B. Miller, of Meade; E.
B. Cummings, of Butte; Speaker of House, S. E. Young,
of Minnehaha.
The first representatives to Congress were : Oscar S.
Gilford, of Canton, and John H. Pickler, of Faulkton.
It was a proud day for South Dakota when, with its vast
LAST TIL'XTINC (iUOUX'l) OF THK DAKOTAHS. 695
heritage of productive acres, it figiinitively shouldered its
equitable burden of the Territorial bonded indebtedness,
including more than $70,000,000, on account of public
institutions falling within its boundaries, and went out
from beneath the Territorial roof to assume the dignity and
responsibilities of Statehood. How well it has fulfilled its
obligations and maintained its credit during its decade of
history, which comprised years of great financial depression
throughout the land, is attested by its present flourishing
condition.
In the beginning- of 1895 South Dakota was shocked at
finding itself on the brink of financial ruin, wrought by
the enormous defalcation of the custodian of the funds of
the State, — with a depleted treasury, and a burden of
floating and bonded indebtedness of $1,260,200, In Janu-
ary, 1897, according to the report of the State Auditor,
the net indebtedness had been decreased to $983,168.31
showing a reduction for the two years of $277,031.49.
In July, 1898, it had been reduced to $564,018.88, show-
ing a decrease of $419,149.63, altogether showing an ad-
vantage to the State of $696,181.12 — exclusive of trust
funds from January, 1895, to July, 1898, which speaks
volumes for the resources of the grand young State,
ASSESSED VALUATION OF SOUTH DAKOTA.
According to the same report there are 17,779,804 acres
of land assessed in South Dakota, at a total valuation, as
adjusted by the State Board of Equalization, of $71,779,804,
or an average of $4.05 per acre, far less than half its actual
value. The assessed valuation of town lots is $14,844,959,
making a total land valuation of $86,624,763. The assessed
valuation of personal property is $22,315,819; railroads
within the State, $9,328,053 ; express, telegraph, telephone,
and sleeping car companies, $311,861, making a total State
assessment of $118,580,496, of which $10,729,482 or
nearly one-eleventh of the whole amount is assessed within
the limits of the six Black Hills counties.
•^96 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
SOUTH DAKOTA PERMANENT SCHOOL FUND.
By ii wise provision of the "bill" admitting South
Dakota to Statehood, sections 16 and 36, or 1,280 acres of
land in each township of the State, — or their equivalent in
indemnity lands — excepting the Indian, military, or other
mational reservations, were granted to the State for the
support of its common schools. Of the nearly 50,000,000
4icres of land embraced within its boundary lines, it is
estimated that more than 2,000,000 of acres are school
lands, which, at $10.00 per acre, — the minimum price at
which it may be sold, would amount to the handsome sum
of $20,000,000 ; and as, by the laws governing the sale of
these lands, no more than one-fourth can be sold within
five years, nor more than one-half of the remainder, within
ten years after they become salable, their value will ulti-
mately more than double that amount.
The fund arising from the rental and sale of these lands
constitutes a permanent common school fund, the interest
only of which can be expended for their support. This,
together with the five per centum of the proceeds of the
sale of public lands paid to the State by the general gov-
ernment, will accumulate into a perpetual school fund of
immense proportions.
In January, 1895, the total amount in the permanent
school fund Avas $603,250.57, all of which was invested.
In July, 1898, the investment amounted to $802,822.74,
and money on hand, $144,329.41, making a total of
$947,152.15, while there was due the fund from deferred
payments from the sale of lands, $1,302,372.89 upon which
interest is accruing at the rate of six per cent per annum.
The Act also granted to the State an aggregate of a half
million acres of land for the support of its educational and
charitable institutions, the proceeds of the sale of which
constitute a permanent fund for their maintenance.
LAST m'NTINO (iKQLM) OF TIIK I>AKOTAllS. GH7
C HATTER XLVI.
THE TRP:aTV of 188'J FOR THE GREAT SIOUX RESERVATION IN
DAKOTA.
The Act of Congress, approved March 2, 1889, dividing
;uid setting apart a portion of the Great Sioux Reserva-
tion in Dakota, into separate reservations for the Indians
•entitled to receive rations and annuities at Pine Ridge,
Rosebud, Standing Rock, Cheyenne river, Jjower Brule,
and Crow Creek Agencies, also secured the relinquishment
of the Indian title to all lands outside of these separate
reservations, amounting to about 9,000,000 acres, corapris-
iusr some of the best lands in Dakota, which was thrown
open to entry under the provisions of the Homestead law,
to bona fide settlers.
By the provisions of the Act, each settler is required to
pay, in addition to the fee and commission on ordinary
homesteads, $1.25 per acre for all land sold within the first
three years after the taking effect of this Act, and seventy-
five cents per acre for all disposed of within the next two
years thereafter, and fifty cents per acre for the residue,
sections sixteen and thirty-two being reserved for school
purposes.
For this ceded land the government deposited in the
Treasury of the United States, to the credit of the Sioux
Nation, $3,000,000, drawing interest at five per cent per
annum, which interest is appropriated under the direction
of the Secretary of the Interior, to the use of the Indians
receiving rations and annuities at the agencies created by
the Act. One-half of the interest accruing is expended
for the promotion of education, industrial and otherwise,
among the Indians : and the other half in such manner
and for such purpose, as, in the judgment of the Secretary
698 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
of the Interior, shall most contribute to their civilization
and self-support.
It appears from the provisions of this Act that, in
1900, the government will have to purchase all the unoccu-
pied portions of this ceded territory at fifty cents per acre,
which, added to the $3,000,000 already in the Treasury,
will constitute a permanent fund for the benefit of the
Sioux Indians, of no small proportions.
The Act also provides for the distribution of twenty-five
cows among the Indians, which are not to be sold under
any circumstances ; thus the number will never diminish, as
when they become too old to be profitable, they are taken
to the nearest Indian farmer and exchanged for young cows,
the old ones being used in the regular beef issues. Al-
though the original stock, which is branded '* I. D.," the
brand of the Indian Department, is not allowed to be sold,
the increase becomes the personal property of the Indians
and are branded with their private brand ; thus many In-
dians, half-breeds and squaw-men, are to-day the owners
of large herds of cattle, for which they find a ready market,
and are really becoming rich.
Perhaps no place in the West is better adapted for stock-
raising purposes than portions of the Sioux Reservation,
the valleys of the streams south of the White river being
green and luxuriant while many portions of the Western
range are dry and withered. In these fertile valleys
thousands of fat sleek cattle belonging to the squaw-men,
graze, the year around, for, be it known that this favored
class has all the rights of full-blooded Sioux, as far as
stock and free range is concerned ; but they draw no indi-
vidual rations.
The Act also provides that each head of the family, or
single person over eighteen years of age, who takes his
or her allotment in severalty, shall be furnished with two
milk cows, one pair of oxen with yoke and chain, or two
horses and one set of harness, in lieu of oxen, yoke, and
chain, as the Secretary of the Interior may deem advisable,.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAIvOTAHS. (591)
also one plow, one harrow, one ax, and one pitchfork, and
fifty dollars in money, to be expended under the direc-
tion of the Secretary of the Interior, in aiding such Indians
to erect houses or other buildings suitable for residences
or the improvement of their allotments.
In this connection, it is gratifying to be able to record that
this allotment plan has worked out some desirable reforms
among the Indians daring the past few years, many of
whom, under its beneficial operations, are making rapid
strides towards self-support and resultant civilization.
NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE SIOUX.
The commission, appointed in 1888 to treat with the
Sioux for their great reserve in Dakota, and which met in
council with the chief representatives of the Sioux Nation
at Standing Rock Agency in July of that year, having
proved a signal failure, a second commission was appointed
in 1889 to make another attempt to secure their acceptance
of the terms offered by the government in the treaty. This
second commission, which was composed of ex-Governor
Foster of Ohio, Major Wm. Warren, and John B. Warren
of Arkansas, and Gen. Geo. Crook, visited the various
agencies during the summer of 1889, for the purpose of
trying to overcome the almost universal opposition met
with by the commission of 1888, and by tact and skillful
diplomacy, and the influence of Gen. Crook, in whose
promises they had the utmost faith, finally succeeded in
winnins over a number of the most inliuential chiefs of the
tribes. Subsequently a second and final council was held at
Standing Rock Agency, where, in the face of a good deal
of opposition and some disturbance on the part of that
chronic disturber. Sitting Bull, who assumed a threatening
attitude, the signatures of the requisite two-thirds of the
Indians were attached to the treaty.
In the year 1890 came the *' winter of their discon-
tent." The liberal provisions of the " bill " enacted by
Congress, and the verbal promises made by Gen. Crook,
700 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
1-emalned unfulfilled for many months; the scant crops
sown in the spring of 1890 were utterly withered by the
exceeding drouth of the following summer; the rations
on some of the reserves were cut down, reducing them to
a condition of starvation; sickness widely prevailed among
the tribes, many dying more from lack of food than dis-
ease. All these misfortunes, it is claimed by their apolo-
gists, made them desperate. Amid this general gloom and
despair among the Sioux tribe came the opportunity of
the medicine-men, who heralded forth the story of the
near advent of their long expected Messiah, which they
hailed with great gladness.
THE MESSIAH CRAZE — THE GENERAL UPRISING — THE GHOST
DANCES — THE TRAGIC DEATH OF THE GREAT MEDICINE-
MAN THE FATAL BATTLE OF WOUNDED KNEE THE
FINAL SURRENDER.
The ancestral religion of the Dakotahs, like that of all
others of the North American Indians, was polytheistic.
They not only worshiped numerous objects, which they
deified and invested with more or less potent attributes,
according to their incomprehensibility, chief among whom
were their two antagonistic deities — the good and the evil
spirits — and believed in and practiced the shedding of aton-
ing blood to propitiate their incensed divinities, through
the mediation of their medicine-men, whom they regard as
the personification of the great Wakan — the essence of
all good, but also, it is claimed by those familiar with their
early legends and traditions, have long looked for the com-
ing of a Messiah.
As far back as our knowledge of their traditions extend,
there has existed among them a class of lazy, but shrewd,
impostors, who, claiming supernatural powers, have, by
their incantations and sorceries, imposed upon the cre-
dulity of those benighted people, the most absurd supersti-
tions, among which was the belief that some day a
*' Messiah" would appear, like an avenging Nemesis at
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THK DAKOTAHS. 701
the head of an army of the red warriors who had died in
battling for their possessions, and lead them against their
white oppressors. From this it would appear that the com-
ing of a Messiah had long been a part of their creed, and
the '* ghost dances " one of the savage rites of their relig-
ious worship.
Taking advantage of the general distress and discontent
among the Dakotah tribes in 1890, the medicine-men went
to work at compounding medicines, and out of the seething
decoctions or mixtures, juggled the prophecy that the long-
expected Messiah was due, and that their day of retribution
and deliverance was at hand. To prepare for the coming
event, in accordance with the messages transmitted through
these impostors, the people were to dance for four con-
secutive days and nights, during the new of the moon, until
the advent of the Messiah.
It is asserted by some that the "craze " was largely due
to the teachings of a fanatical white evangelist, named
Hopkins, who in the summer of 1890 went among the Pine
Ridge Indians, claiming to be the true "Messiah" and
strangely enough many believed in him. Later the im-
postor was unmasked, arrested, and banished from the
agency by the soldiers. Messiahs also appeared at some of
the other agencies, but it is believed that with all their blind
credulity, they were generally regarded by the Indians as
spurious.
While the mania spread far and wide into other States,
wherever there were Indian settlements, the " craze " was
the most violent and pronounced among the Sioux tribes of
South Dakota, and Pine Ridge, being the largest and most
important of the South Dakota agencies, became the center
and hot-bed of the trouble, numerous bands from other
agencies massing near that point to join the majority in
their savage rites.
Although the attitude of the Indians at Pine Ridge had
for some time been extremely threatening, it was not until
about the middle of November that the agent wholly lost
702 THE BLACK HILLS; OR,
control of them. At that time large bands under the
leadership of Little Wound, Six Feathers, and other chiefs,
smuggled away their guns and left the reservation without
leave of absence, for the vicinity of White Earth River,
and on the 16th of that month began the *' ghost dance,"
rirst on the Wounded Knee, a tributary of that stream,
at a point about fifteen miles from the agency, and later at
other points. Soon after several bands of Rosebud Indians,
led by Two Strikes, Short Bull, and Big Foot arrived and
began the dance on Porcupine and Medicine Root creeks,
twenty-five and thirt}' miles distant from the agency,
respectively. Almost simultaneously it began at the Chey-
enne and other agencies, and at the hostile camp of Sitting
Bull on the Grand River near Fort Yates.
Hideously painted and arrayed in their invulnerable
'♦ ghost dance " shirts; to the weird music of the tom-tom
and other savage devices for making a great noise, the poor
deluded creatures danced round and round a center pole,
writhed into the most frightful contortions ; pounded old
mother earth until she fairly trembled beneath their savage
feet ; beat their plumed heads one against another in mad
frenzy, until they finally sank exhausted, and almost uncon-
scious, to the ground, when another set of braves would take
their places and repeat the performance.
The dancers daily increased in numbers, and, naturally,
the longer they danced the crazier and more warlike they
became, and the alarm of the people at the agency, both
red and white, and the settlers outside the reservation grew
in proportion. All attempts of the agent and Indian police
to pacify and induce them to return to the agency proved
fruitless.
In the intervals of the dancing they employed their time
in devastating the settlements, stealing cattle from both
the settlers and the " government herd," burning buildings,
nnd demolishing such property as could not be utilized,
their depredations being principally directed against the
half-breeds who refused to join the dance.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THE DAKOTAHS. 703
The people of the more remote settlements in Pennine-
ton, Custer, and Fall River counties in Dakota, and alono^
the northern border of Nebraska, apprehending that the
hostile bands might consolidate, and start out on the war-
path, petitioned the governors of the respective States for
arms for defense ; organized home-guards, sent their panic-
stricken women and children into the towns and larser set-
tlements for safety, determined to make a bold stand for
their homes and property.
THE ARRIVAL OF A MILITARY FORCE AT PINE RIDGE.
Upon learning that the Indians had gotten beyond re-
straint and were leaving their reservations in large bands
without leave, Gen. Miles issued orders to troops stationed
at the nearest military posts to proceed at once to Pine
Ridge, the most threatened point, and on or about Novem-
ber 20th, five companies of infantry from Omaha, and
three troops of cavalry from Fort Robinson, Nebraska,
arrived at the agency. The following day, or very soon
after, seven troops of cavalry from Fort Meade, and seven
companies of infantry from Fort McKinney, also troops
from Cheyenne, Wyoming, and other points arrived at the
scene of prospective war.
Gen. Brooke, chief in command of the military forces,
after consulting with Agent Royer, decided to make no
aggressive movement against the hostiles, who were then
massed in large bands in the vicinity of White Clay creek,
at least until all pacific measures were exhausted. Upon
the appearance of the soldiers, the bands which, for the
most part, were composed of young braves, made their
escape across the White Earth river, and entrenched them-
selves amid the labyrinthian defiles of the Bad Lands,
whither it was not safe for the soldiers to follow ; and
from where, despite the " Home-Guards " and the 400
troopers stationed at the mouth of Rapid creek, under
Gen. Carr, who patroled the country bordering the Chey-
enne river on the west, small bands frequently stole across
704
THE BLACK HILLS; OH,
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THP: DAKOTAHS. 705
that stream and raided the settlements along Rapid, Spring,
and Battle creeks, in quest of the horses and other prop-
erty of the settlers, who were ever ready with loaded guns
for their appearance.
It early developed that the emissaries of Sitting Bull
were continually passing to and fro with messages from
his camp to the bands entrenched in the Bad Lands, and
the malcontents outside, inciting them to continue hos-
tilities. So, about November 27th, Col. Cody (Buffalo
Bill) arrived at Standing Rock Agency, from New York,
bearing a commission from Gen. Miles to visit the camp of
the chief medicine-man on the Grand River, study the situ-
ation, and try to persuade him to put a stop to the ghost-
dance-craze, which mission proved barren of good results.
Frequent delegations of friendly Indians, of whom there
were, perhaps, between 400 and 500 left at the agency,
went into their almost inaccessible retreat to induce them,
if possible to send representatives into the agency to talk
over their grievances with Gen. Brooke, but their efforts
were unavailing. Finally, however, through the intiuence
of Father Jule, the Catholic missionary at Pine Ridge, a
number of prominent chiefs among whom were Two-
Strikes, Big Turkey, Turning Bear, Big-Bad-Horse, and
other influential chiefs with equally suggestive appella-
tions, in full ghost-dance panoply, armed with Winchester
rifles, and surrounded by a body-guard of several painted
warriors, accompanied Father Jule into the camp of Gen.
Brooke, under the protection of a flag of truce. During
the conference which followed, Gen. Brooke assured
them that if they would return and remain peaceable on
their reservations, they would be provided with ample
rations and in due time all their grievances would bo re-
dressed. The General's overtures were, however, received
with ominous scowls and numerous grunts of sullen disap-
proval and after a few harangues from the savage orators
the pow-wow closed without having received from them,
any promises of surrender.
45
706 THE BLACK HILLS ; OK,
All efforts to pacify the hostiles proving unavailing, the
military authorities decided upon two heroic measures —
first the arrest of Sitting Bull, who, it was learned, was on
the eve of joining the hostiles in the Bad Lands with his
followers; second the disarmament of Indians by force,
and the 15th of December, 1890, saw the beginning of the
end. On the night of that day, in compliance with an order
from Gen. Ruger of St. Paul, dated December 12th, 1890,
a detachment of soldiers consisting of troops F and H,
Eighth Cavalry, under command of Capt. Fetchet with artil-
lerj', consisting of a Hotchkiss and Gatling gun, surgeon,
hospital ambulances, guide, and two trusty scouts, followed
by Companies H and G, Twelfth Infantry, under Col.
Drum, left Fort Yates, preceded by a force of
perhaps thirty superbly mounted, splendidly ac-
coutered Indian police in the blue uniform of United
States soldiers, in command of First and Second Lieuts.
Bull Head and Shave Head, from Standing Rock Agency,
and marched away under the cover of darkness towards
the intensely hostile village on the banks of the Grand
river, to Oak creek about six miles distant therefrom,
where the military made a temporary halt.
From this point, the faithful police, who were as true as
steel to their sworn duty, led the band considerably in ad-
vance of the cavalry and artillery, which was to keep
within supporting distance.
Noiselessly and carefully they picked their way towards
the home of the great prophet, and just as the first glim-
mering of dawn appeared in the Orient, Lieutenant Bull
Head stealthily approached the abode of the yet sleeping
chieftain, lifted the latch of the unfastened door, cautiously
stepped within, virtually "bearding the lion in his den,"
and made known his mission.
Just what immediately preceded the killing of Sitting
Bull is not positively known, as there are two different,
and quite antagonistic statements made in regard to the
occurrences leading up to it. One is that he was seized
BUFFALO BILL IIULDIXG A CONFEUENCK WITH SITTIXG BULL A SHORT
TIME PRIOR TO HIS DEATH.
LAST HUNTING (J ROUND OF THE DAKOTAIIS. 707
by the police jiiul dragged outside the door, when he
sounded the ahirm which brought his followers to his res-
cue, one of whom, Catch-The-Bear, tired at Bull Head, the
captor of his chief, w'ho then like a flash drew his re-
volver, and as he fell mortally wounded, sent the fatal
bullet into the heart of Sitting Bull. The other is that
when Bull Head entered the hut of Sitting Bull, his young
son (Crow Foot) seeing through the open door that the
house was surrounded by police, gave the cry of alarm,
whereupon Bull Head tired at Sitting Bull, the ball enter-
ing his breast, killing him almost instantly, and that while
reeling he managed to draw his revolver, which exploded
as he fell, the ball entering the thigh of Bull Head, from
the effects of which he later died.
In either case, the uncompromising foe of the pale-faces
received his death wound — not at their hands, but at the
hands of one in whose veins flowed the red blood of the
Dakotahs. At the first sound of the savage slogan Sit-
ting:: Bull's faithful followers sjathered around their fallen
chieftain, and a bloody encounter between the hostiles and
police followed, in which many on both sides fell, the
police, knowing that Capt. Fetchet would soon come to
their support, bravely holding their ground against largely
superior numbers.
At a critical juncture the dismounted cavalry, under
Lieuts. Crowder, Slocum, and Steele, advanced down the
hill, firing steadily as they approached, and at the same
time the artillery, which had been placed in position on the
hills overlooking the village, opened their batteries on the
hostiles, who, dismayed at the unexpected onslaught, fled
precipitately towards the timber on the river.
Capt. Fetchet, fearing that when the hostiles rallied he
would not be able to hold the village with the force at his
command, returned to Oak creek, where he met the infantry
under Col. Drum. The wounded and dead policemen,
together with the bodv of Sitting Bull, were placed in the
ambulances and conveyed to Standing Rock Agency, where
708 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
Lieuts. Bull Head and Shave Head both died from the
wounds received in the battle, and were, because of their
tidelity, buried with military honors. What was done with
the l)ody of Sitting Bull is not known. Among the police
killed in the encounter besides the lieutenants were Little
Eagle, Broken Arm, Afraid-of-Soldiers, and Hawk-Man.
Of the hostiles besides Sitting Bull, Crow Foot, his young
son. Little Assiniboine, his adopted brother, Catch-the-
Bear, Brave Thunder, and Chase-the-^Vounded, were slain.
While the death of Sitting Bull was, in one sense, a great
relief, removing as it did the chief obstacle in the way of
a peaceful solution of the Indian trouble, it caused the
most intense excitement and consternation throughout the
Lidian country, and a keen apprehension that many of the
settlers would fall victims to the vengeance of the hostile
Sioux.
THE ADVENT OF GENERAL MILES AND THE DISARMAMENT
OF THE HOSTILES.
The advent of Gen. Miles, the great Indian pacificator, at
this crisis, was made the occasion of special rejoicing at
Pine Ridge and among the people of the surrounding
country, and caused a perceptible weakening and modifica-
tion in the attitude of the hostiles. About December 18th
Two-Strikes and the major part of his band, numbering
over 800 braves, came into tne agency and surrendered to
Gen. Brooke. Little Wound and his band, and old Red
Cloud had already returned to the ranks of the friendlies,
and were making every effort to bring in the recalcitrant
bands from the Bad Lands. On December 20th, Big
Foot and Hump came into the agency with their bands,
bringing with them 150 of Sitting Bull's warriors, who had
lied after the death of their leader and joined the hostiles
near Pine Ridge. The next day, however, he broke away
from the agency and made for the Bad Lands, pursued by
a force of cavalry under Gen. Carr. By December 2oth,
uearlv all the bands, save those intrenched in the Bad
LAST HUNTING CUOUNI) OF THE DAKOTAHS. 709
Lands, had retuinod and surrendered their arms to Gen.
Brooke.
The military cordon was now drawn closer and closer
around the hostile entrenchment, and the only accessible
pass thereto was guarded by a large force of cavalry.
Much brisk fighting and skirmishing went on daily in the
vicinity of Spring, Rapid, and Battle creeks, between
detachments of troopers and small bands of hostiles who
were trying to make their Avay into the Bad Lands, but of
these it is needless to go into tedious detail.
On December 28th the welcome news was brought in
by a scout that Big Foot was on his way to surrender, and
that all the Indians in the Bad Lands had also decided to
come in. Upon receiving this announcement, a part of the
Seventh Cavalry in command of Ca[)t. Whiteside hastily
mounted and galloped forward to meet them, and on
descending the slope of Porcui)ine Valley found Big Foot
and his band together with Sitting Bull's warriors drawn
up in battle array and heavily armed. After a short
parley, the renegade chief and his entire band, and about
250 women, and children surrendered to Capt. Whiteside
and were marched back to the old camp of the Seventh
Cavalry on the Wounded Knee.
Reinforcements were immediately sent for, and early
on the morning of the 29th of December, Col. Forsythe
arrived with orders from Gen. Brooke to disarm the
Indians, for which arrangements were speedily made.
He then threw his force of 500 regulars around the
camp, mounted his heavy guns, and at 8 o'clock issued his
order to disarm the Indians. In obedience to the command
of Col. Forsythe, the Indians came forward from their
tepees, leaving the squaws and children behind, when
they were ordered to step forward by twenties and deliver
their arms to Capt. Whiteside. They stepped forward and
gave him two guns, the others being kept hidden under the
folds of their blankets, or some were, ])erhaps, left back
in their tents.
710 THE BLACK HILLS; OK,
Regarding this as a lack of good faith, and suspecting
treachery on the part of the desperate band, Capt. White-
side ordered his dismounted troopers to close in about the
Indians, which they did, taking a stand within twenty feet
of them, in an almost complete square, when, like a flash,
they drew their concealed guns from beneath their blank-
ets, and fired a deadly volley into the closed ranks of the
soldiers. Exasperated at this base treachery, the soldiers,
scarcely waiting for the word of command, opened a terrific
fire on the Indians, who fell before it as falls the grain
before the sickle of the reaper.
After a short but terrible hand-to-hand combat, the
few Indians who were left broke and fled from the unequal
contest to the ravines and brakes surrounding the camp,
pursued by the exasperated troopers, whom it was found
difficult to restrain. As soon as it became safe, the heavy
guns were trained, and the batteries opened on the ambus-
cades of the fugitives, driving them back with shot and
shell to the buttes, until there was not an Indian left in
sight.
During the ensragement, which lasted about an hour,
there were twenty-nine soldiers killed, among whom was
Ca))t. Geo. D. Wallace, Troop K, Seventh Cavalry ; and
thirty-three wounded, among whom was Lieut. E. A. Gar-
lington, Troop A, Seventh Cavalry, who was also Adju-
tant of the Seventh Cavalry, at the time of the Caster battle
in 187(5. Lieut. Garlington, it will be remembered, ren-
dered himself famous in connection with the expedition
to the Arctic region, for the relief of Lieut. Greeley in
1883.
From the report of Gen. Miles to the Secretary of War,
dated at Hermosa, South Dakota, December 30th, 1890,
there were ninety dead Indian men found on and near the
plain where the attempt was made to disarm Big Foot's
band, which, including those killed in the ravines would,
it has been estimated, swell the number to more than two
hundred.
LAST HUNTING GROUND OF THP: DAKOTAHS. 711
The women and children fled to the hills when the
fifing first began and many were unfortunately killed while
on their flight and in their hiding-places, which in the con-
fusion was, no doubt, unavoidable.
The news of the disastrous battle at Wounded Knee
intensified for a time the hostility of the more warlike,
and created a spirit of unrest among the Indians who had
surrendered, large numbers of whom broke away from the
agency and tied towards the Bad Lands. All sorts of
alarming rumors, some well founded, and some baseless,
were afloat, causing the greatest excitement among the
friendly Indians and the settlers who flocked into the
agency for safety.
From this time the history of that memorable Indian
campaign may be briefly summed up. At the beginning
of the new year (1891) there were near the center of hos-
tilities, ready for active service, the First, Second, Fifth,
Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth Regiments of Cavalry,
and the First, Second, Third, Seventh, Eighth, Twelfth,
Seventeenth, Twenty-first, and Twenty-second Regiments
of Infantry, comprising in the aggregate about 8,000 well
equipped soldiers, besides Battery A of First, and Battery
F of Fourth Artillery, to cope with 3,000 hostile Indians,
among whom were perhaps not more than 600 warriors,
who, for the most part, were safely entrenched among the
inaccessible lava beds of the Bad Lands. The problem
was to dislodge or induce them to come forth and sur-
render.
On January 5th another spirited but far less disastrous
enofacreraent took place a few miles from Wounded Knee.
Upon learning that a train of wagons loaded with supplies
was approaching on the Rapid City road a detachment of
thirty picked troopers was sent out to meet the train and
protect it from probable attack, and they were none too
soon, for they had not gone more than ten miles before
they discovered the train of thirteen wagons corralled, and
surrounded by about fifty whooping Indians. The
712 THE BLACK HILLS: OR,
troopers put spurs to their horses and galloped to their
relief, when the Indians retreated to a neighboring hill.
The soldiers joined the teamsters, nineteen in number, and
they together quickl}^ threw up breastworks composed of
boxes, sacks of grain, etc., but had hardly finished the work
before the Indians returned to the attack with numbers
augmented to more than a hundred warriors, leaving a
large reserve force on the adjoining hills. They circled
round and round, firing into the barricade at long range,
doing but little damage, while an occasional red-skin was
seen to reel and fall from his saddle.
In the early part of the siege, a trooper named Collins
made a bold dash through the circling lines of Indians, and
sped swiftly away after re-enforcements followed by about
twenty Indians in distant pursuit, who soon gave up the
chase and returned to the attack.
After the battle had raged for three long hours, and at a
critical time, when Indian bullets were flying thick and fast
around the little besieged party, troops were seen coming in
full charge to the rescue. The Indians broke and fled to
the hills, one of the troops giving chase, w^hich, however,
was soon abandoned. Four cavalry horses were shot and
killed and one soldier slightly wounded. Many Indians
fell, and a large number of ponies were killed, and some
captured.
On January 8, 1891, Indian affairs at the different South
Dakota agencies were temporarily placed by the Secretary
of the Interior, under the sole control of the military, with
Gen. Miles in supreme command, when the ))rospect for a
speedy settlement of the trouble materially brightened.
Every morning reports were brought in by scouts, that the
Indians were coming in to surrender, but every evening
found the promise unfulfilled, and so the campaign dragged
along. Finally Gen. Miles, aided by the efforts of Frank
Gourard, chief of the Indian police, Buffalo Bill, and the
unremitting labors of Father Jule, secured a conference
with a number of the leading chiefs, which resulted in a
LAST HUNTING GIJOUNI) OV THK DAKOTAHS.
713
complete surrender of all the hostile forces in the B:ul
Lands, the last bands reluctantly yielding up their arms to
Gen. Miles on January 15th, 1891. Thus ends the story,
briefly and imperfectly told, of the great Messiah Croze,
and the last uprising of the Dakotahs.
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