I
I
11
,GUIDe:B
o.
tsuak Ww C-^S^J (i<ia^ yyu,.^uu^-^
BLACK'S
GUIDE TO IKELAND
]IlIu0tratet) totti) lilapa anti Plans
I'd back one man from Corkshire
To bate ten men from Yorkshire ;
Kerr>'men
Agin' Derrymen,
And Munster agin' Creation !
Wirrasthrue ! "lis a pity we aren't a nation ! — Fuller.
TWENTY-FOURTH EDITION
LONDON
ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
1906
REVISED AND BROUGHT UP TO DATE BY
R. T. LANG.
March 1906.
The Editor will he glad to receive any notes or corrections from,
Tourists vsing this Guide-hook. Comnivnications to be addressed
tothe PuhUfh-'ri:.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Dublin 1
Principal Sights .
5
"Walks through Dublin
19
Excursions from Dublin .
31
Howth
33
Malahide
37
Swords, Lusk, etc.
39
Drogheda
39
The Boyne ....
40
Monasterboice ....
41
Mellifont, Dowth, New Grange,
Slane
, Ti-ii
n, etc
. 42-44
Tara
45
Kells
47
Kingstown ....
48
Dalkey, Killiney
49
Poulaphuca
49
Bray
50
Excursions from Bray
51
The Dargle ....
51
Powergcourt ....
52
Loughs Bray, Tay, etc.
54
Roundwood, etc.
55
Devil's Glen
56
Oleudalough
58
Vales of Clara, Ovoca, etc.
62, 63
Wooden Bridge ....
65
2066179
IV
CONTENTS
A\'ii.'klo\v .
Glemnalure t,Dninigoff^
Lugnaquilla
Arklow
County "Wexford
Emiiscorthj', etc.
Wexford ....
New Ross .
Inistioge
Railway Itineraries :
I. Dublin to Cork
II. Kildare to Watcrford
III. Limerick Junction to Water
Dublin to Cork (G.S.AV.R.) .
Newbridge; Kildare .
Maryborough
Roscrea ....
Thurles ; Holy Cross .
Caihel ....
Limerick Junction, Buttevant
Mallow ....
Cork
Queenstown Harbour .
Passage, Queenstown.
Haulbowline, Crosshaven .
Excursions from Cork
Rostellan and Cloyne
Blarney ....
Youghal ....
The Blackwater
Cajjpoquin : Moiint Melleray
Lismore ....
Fermoy ....
Limerick Junction to Waterford
ford
CONTEN
TS
V
PikOE
Mitchelstown 128
Clonmel ....
129
Waterford ....
131
To Waterford from Dublin
133
Eilkenny ....
134
Jerpoint ....
137
Cork to Killarney — (1) Direct Route
138
(2) " Prince of Wales " Route to Killarney
139
Bandon
140
Bantry ....
142
Glengariflfe
144
Castletown Berehaven
145
Kenmare ....
146
(3) Macroom Route to Killarney
148
Killarney ....
150
Gap of Dunloe and the Lakes
151-163
Muckross Abbey
163
Mangerton
164
The Reeks
165
Killarney to Valentia, Waterville and Parkuasilla
165
169
Railway Itinerary, Galway from Dublin .
172
Limerick
176
Limerick to Kilrush, Kilkee, etc.
182
,, Castleconnell, Killaloe, etc.
185
,, Galway (by Rail)
191
Dublin to Galway .
193
MuUingar.
194
Athlone ....
195
Lissoy ....
197
Clonmacnois ....
199
Ballinasloe
202
Athenry ....
203
Galway
205
vi CONTENTS
Galway Bay
Aran Isles ....
Galway to Li.sdoonvarna, Moher Clill
s, au(
i Kilkee
Connemara ....
I. Galway to Clifden (by Rail) .
Recess ....
Ballynahinch
Clifden ....
Clifden to Westport .
Letterfrack
Leenane ....
Delphi ....
Westport
Croagh Patrick .
Westport to Acliill Island
Achill
II. Galway to Clifden (by Corrib)
Lough Corrib
Cong
Lough Mask
Dublin to Westport by Athloue
Westport to Sligo
Ballina ....
Ballysodare
Sligo
Glencar ....
Knocknarea
Bundoran
Inismurray ....
Belleek ....
Bally.shanuoii
Sligo to Longford
Lough Erne District .
Clones
CONTENTS
Vll
Newtown Butler
Enuiskillen ....
Lower Lough Erne
Upper Lougli Erne .
Railway Itinerary, Belfast from Dublin
B»lfast
Excursions from Belfast
Armagh ....
Dundalk ....
Rostrevor ....
Greenore ....
Downpatrick
Newcastle ....
Slieve Donard
Bfoody Bridge .
To the Giant's Causeway — (1) By Rail
Carrickfergus
Antrim ....
Lough Neagh
Coleraine ....
Portrusli ....
Dunluce Castle .
The Giant's Causeway
To the Giant's Causeway — (2) By Coast
Lame ....
Cushendall
Ballycastle.
Enniskillen to the Giant's Causeway
Londonderry ....
Excursions from Londonderry
Donegal Highlands .
(a) From tl^e South ; from Enniskillen, Straban^
Letterkenny ^
Donegal Town .
viii
CONTENTS
PAGE
The Donegal Coast Tour 345
Killybcgs .
. 347
Carrick
. 348
Slieve League
. 348
Glenties
. 353
Gartan Lougli
. 354
Dungloe
. 357
Gweedore .
. 359
Errigal
. 359
Dunfanaghy
. 362
Horn Head, Muckish,
etc.
. 362
Rosapenna .
. 365
Portsalon .
. 367
Ratlimullen
. 368
Buncraua .
. 370
Slieve Snacht
. 370
Inishowen .
.
. 371
(J) From the North ; from
Lone
ondu
iry .
. 372
LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS
Ireland, Sketch Map, and Index
Maps
Dublin (Plan) .
Dublin Bay
Environs of Dublin
I. Dublin to Arklow
Glendalough (Plan)
II. Wicklow and Wexford ,
Cork (Plan)
St. Finn Barr's Cathedral
III. Queenstown Harbour
Blarney District
IV. Glengariffe and Kenmare
V. Killarney
VI. Killarney and Waterville
Limerick (Plan)
VII. Clare and Galway
VIII. Lehinch, Moher Cliffs, etc.
IX. Connemara, West
X. Lough Corrib
XI. Connemara, East
XII. Lough Erne and Sligo
Lough Erne, Sketch Maps
Belfast Town (Plan) .
Armagh Cathedral (Plan)
XIII. Mourne Mountains
XIV. Giant's Causeway
to Sectional
Inside front cover
To face page 1
page 31
To face page 31
50
59
66
103
page 107
To face page 114
page 118
To face page 145
150
170
176
192
214
240
236
223
246
pages 256, 257
To face page 270
272
292
314
LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS
Londonderry (Plan) To face page Z22
XV. Antrim and Down (N.E. Coast) . ,, 328
XVL Donegal Highlands .,364
XYIT. Lough Swilly District .... ,,370
XVI IL Inishowen and Lough Foyle ... ,, 372
General Map of Ireland in pocket at end of book.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Dublin : O'Connell Bridge
and Sackv
die Street
Frontispiece
Dublin : St. Patrick's Cathedral
. Facing page 12
Howth and Ireland's Eye .
34
Kingstown ....
48
Glendalongh ....
58
Cork : Patrick Street
104
Blarney Castle .
118
River Blackwater, Lismore
122
Kilkenny : St. Canice's Cathedral
136
Gap of Dunloe ....
154
iluckross Abbey
164
Killaloe
188
A Galway Fair .
202
The Twelve Bens
218
Clifden .
222
A Bowley House, Achiil
230
The Seal Caves, Achiil
234
Belfast : High Street .
264
Giant's Causeway
308
Londonderry
330
Potato-Digging .
344
Cottage Industries, Donegal
352
Turf-Cutting in Donegal
360
APPROACHES
The hours of passage given below are of course only approximate.
The lowest saloon fares for the single journey are alone
quoted. For further details, see the sailings bills of the
different Companies or the useful list of steamers at the end
of "Bradshaw."
1. To Dublin and District
Horn's
of
Pass-
Single
Route.
Steamer Company.
Sailings. Saloon
i Fare.
age.
Holyhead to Kingstown .
n
City of Dublin Steam
Packet
2daUy
7s. 6d.
Holyhead to Dublin (N.
4i
L.N.W.B.
Several | 4s.
Wall)
daily (3rd ord.)
5s. (exp.)
Liverpool to Dublin
8
City of Dublin Steam
Packet, and others
2 daily i 13s. 6d.
Glasgow to Dublin .
Burns (Royal Mail),
via Belfast
2 dally 25s.
Laird Line
Daily i 13s. 6d.
Duke Line
4 a week ; 13s. 6d.
Bristol to Dublin
24
Bristol Steam Navi-
gation
Laird Line
1 a week \ 10s.
Heysham to Dublin .
9
Daily 12s. 6d.
London to Dublin
3 days
British and Irish
Steam Packet
Company Ltd., 19
Leadenhall Street,
B.C.
2 a week 26s.
Portsmouth to Dublin
56
B. & LS.P. Co., 10
Broad Street
2 a week 24s. 6d.
Southampton to Dublin
50
B. & I.S.P. Co., S
Gloucester Square
2 a week 24s. 6d.
Plymouth to Dublin .
30
B. & I.S.P. Co., Mill-
bav Pier
2 a week 20s.
Falmouth to Dublin .
22
B. & LS.P. Co.,
Market Street
2 a week 18s.
Silloth to Dublin
12
R. Wilson, Silloth .
2 a week 10s.
APPROACHES
2. To South
AND West Ireland
Hours
of
Pass-
Single
Route.
steamer Company.
Sailings.
Saloon
Fare.
age.
Liverpool to Cork .
19
City of Cork Steam
Packet
3 a week
17s. 6d.
Liverpool to Waterford .
14*
Waterford Steam-
ships
Great Western Rly.
3 a week
158.
Fishguard to Rosslare
3
2 daily
Bristol to Cork
•20
City of Cork Steam
Packet
15s."
London to Waterford
Clyde Shippiii'.; Co.,
138 Liadenhall St.
1 a week
22.S. 6d
Bristol to Waterford
14
Waterford Steam-
ship
City of Cork Steam )
2 a week
158.
New Milford to Cork
10
Packet
3 a week
153.
Great Western Rly. )
Glasgow to Sligo
Laird Line . ' .
2 a week
12s. 6d.
New Milford to Water-
ford
4
Great Western Rly.
Daily
Glasgow to Waterford .
28
Clyde Shipping Co.,
21 Carlton Place
2 a week
178. 6d.
„ Cork .
30
Clyde Shipping Co.,
21 Carlton Place
2 a week
17s. 6d.
Bristol to Wexford
Waterford Steain-
sliip
1 a week
15s.
London
Southampton |- to Cork
South Coast )
City of Cork Steam
Packet
1 a week
20s.
(Lond.)
Liverpool to Westport
Laird Line
1 a week
12s. Od.
( to Ballina
-v
Glasgow/ and
I Westport
■ }
Alternate
Saturdays
12s. 6d.
3.
To North Ireland
Hours
Route.
of
Pass-
steamer Company.
Sailings.
Single
Saloon
age.
Fare.
LivLTpuol to Belfast
Vi
Belfast Steamship .
Daily
12s. 6d.
n M
10
J. J. Mack and Sons
2 a week
Barrow to Belfast .
n
James Little, Bar-
row-on-Fumess
Daily
128. 6d.
Fleetwood to Bellast
Lancashire & York-
shire and London
& North-Western
Joint Railways
Daily
7s. 6d.
Fleetwood to Londonderry
u
Do.
Daily
1 Oloiigow to Belfast .
n
Burns' (Royal Mail)
Steatiiship
2 daily
128. 6d.
Cardiir to Belfast .
Wm. Sloan and Co.
1 a week
203.
Swansea to Belfast .
Do.
1 a week
208.
APPROACHES
3. To North Ireland — Continued.
XIU
Hours
of
Pass-
Single j
Route.
Steamer Company.
Sailings. Saloon
Fare.
age.
Holyhead to Greenore .
5
London and North-
i
Daily i 7s. 6d.
western Rly.
Ardiossau to Belfast
5
Burns' (Royal Mail) ' Dally 9s.
Steamship i
Midland Railway 2 daily ( ^^I^^^^'
(Northern Counties summer-< r^^^„'^•„
Stranraer to Lame .
Committee)
months (:-VT6d:
London to Belfast
Clyde Shipping
2 a week ; 30s.
(LeadenhallSt.,E.C.)
Bristol to Belfast
W. Sloan and Co.,
Glasgow
2 a week
20s.
return
Glasgow to London-
12
Burns' (Royal Mail)
2 a week
12s. 6d.
derry
Steamship
Glasgow to London-
12
Laird
4 a week
12s. 6d.
derry
Glasgow to Portrush .
II ...
2 a week
lis.
,, ,, Coleraine .
,, ...
2 a week
10s.
» „ Sligo .
...
2 a week
123. 6d.
Heysham to London-
...
2 a week
12s. 6d.
derry
4. Round the Coast
The steamers of the Clyde Shipping Co. (Leadeahall Street,
E.G.) and the Laird Line (Robertson Street, Glasgow) make,
during the season, a series of coasting trips along the Northern
and Western Coasts of Ireland.
INTRODUCTION
HOTELS
If "commercial" Ireland has aiij' general ambition to-day, it
is, we take it, to become the holiday field ol' a large section of
the British public. If this be so, — and there are many evi-
dences of it, — then undoubtedly its first consideration in this
direction must be the improvement in the accommodation of
its Hotels and Lodgings for tourists. Great cftbrts have indeed
been made during the last few years, with most happy results.
Outside Dublin, Belfast, Sligo and other towns the railway
companies are in the van of the matter, and the hotels they
have established at such centres as Newcastle in Down, Port-
rush, and several of the favourite resorts in Kerry and Conne-
mara, are striking marks of the progress made. Numbers of
the new establishments are furnished and managed in a most
praiseworthy manner— some are quite luxurious. Indirectly,
also, their example has undoubtedly resulted in a general
advance all along the line, and has certainly given to many a
che] and a waiter of the smaller hostelries professional ideals
undreamt of in the last generation. A considerable proportion
of these new hotels, however, are intended for the wealthier
classes, and there is still a wide field open to enterprising
Irishmen in many districts who will take up with greater
thoroughness the eflicient management of the smaller hotels
still existing, and the catering for the less luxurious section of
the middle classes.
The i)oint on which the touribt resorts of Ireland sutfer most
by co'iipari.-^on with the corresponding parts of Great Brit-ain is
probably their supply of private lodgings.
INTRODUCTION XV
TRAVELLINQ
In the first half of the 19th century, to go no farther back, the
tourist was lucky whose coach, under the escort of armed guards,
could reach Limerick — a distance of 129 miles — in twelve hours
after leaving Dublin. The Great Southern Railway Express
will now carry him — together with, if he will, the comforting
contents of a hot luncheon basket — over the same journey in
3 hours and 20 minutes, twice a day. Here is progress indeed ;
but what of the "American Express" on the same line, which
leaves Dublin on Thursday mornings soon after 6 and reaches
Cork — a distance of 165J miles — in less than four hours. Nor
are modern railway improvements to be met with only in the
south ; the other great Companies, the Midland G.W., the Great
Northern, the Belfast and Northern Counties, the Waterford and
Limerick, and the Dublin and Wexford are all hurrying their
expresses and lowering their fares. The cheapness of the Irish
railway and steamer travelling is becoming remarkable. At the
present moment, indeed, the country olt'ers the English holiday-
seeker of slender means the most attractive facilities for travelling
to be found in Western Europe. Two instances taken at random
from the Tourist Programme will convince the most sceptical :—
London [vid Kingstowu and G. Southern Railway) to Kil-
larney ; thence to Valentia Harbour, and by coach round the
Waterville Promontory, and back. Return fare, third class and
steamer saloon, including coach and driver's fee, £3 : 17s.
London {vid Fleetwood or Liverpool and B. and N, Co. Rail-
way) to Portrush and back. Return fare, third class and steamer
saloon, £2 : 12 : 3.
Tours. — Our experience is that most tourists consider the
question of railway facilities and railway fares the all-important
one in making out their tours ; and we shall therefore only offer
a few words of advice on this subject. Read our remarks on the
scenery or fishing districts (pp. xvii, xviii) ; then consult the
season's programme of the Railway Companies which cover your
selected districts, or apply to Messrs. Cook ; and "combine the
information."
The Tourist Programme published annually by each of the
principal English railways will give return-ticket fares from all
chief stations in England to all tourist resorts in Ireland, and
xvi INTRODUCTION
descriptions of circular tours. Similar programmes are published
by the leading railways of Ireland {see Bradshaw), giving
particulars of all circular tours in detail.
Messrs. T. Cook and Son (Ludgate Circus, E.C.) publish an
annual paraphet giving full particulars of all the various tonrs
■which they arrange. "We can supply tickets," they say in
their Introduction, " for any tour that the requirements of our
clients may demand."
Time in Dublin, it should be observed, is 25 minutes later
than in Greenwich, and Dublin time is adopted by all Irish
stations.
Distances also are liable to upset your calculations in a most
unpleasant manner unless you remember that it generally takes
11 Irish miles to make 14 English ; the railway companies,
however, use the English measurement. The Irish peasant,
especially in the west, is as incapable of measuring distances as
of telling his right hand from his left ; both are equally im-
possible to him. Experientia docet. Never, therefore, ask,
" How far is it ? " but if hard driven for some information, ask
u-hat time the journey will take. For most Pats go to market
and the fair, many go to church, and some nowadays, even in
Donegal, catch a train.
Travelling by car is very cheap. For the long cars there
are special fares, but the common rate of charges by private car
is 6d. a mile for one, and about Is. a mile for four — without
the jarvey's tip.
CYCLING
The roads of Southern Ireland, especially in the S.W. corner
of the country, are the happiest for the cyclist. In County
Kerry the surface through many miles of the most important
Bcenery is practically perfect. To 8upj)ort this high praise we
need here only quote as typical a road as that between Glen-
gariffe and Killarney, — the finest road of its length which we
have ever had the pleasure to travel upon.
lu Connemara wc have found the surface generally excellent ;
INTRODUCTION xvii
and in Donegal also there is plenty of i^ally good ground for the
cyclist.
In all these western counties, however, especially along the
coast routes of Oonnemara and Donegal, the wheelman will have
to keep a look-out for strong west winds. He will find that not
only does the force of the prevailing wind from the Atlantic
compel him often to modify the direction of his tour, but
that occasionally it is so strong that he will have to wait its
pleasure, give his machine an "easy," and exercise his patience
instead.
Beside these three districts named there is pleasant cycling
to be had in the neighbourhood of Lough Erne, around Sligo,
in County Down, and along the Antrim coast.
In concluding this brief note for the cyclist, we would urge
with emphasis one bit of advice. Throughout the whole
western coast always arrange the tour so as to travel as much as
possible from south to north. Cyclists who have made the
error of riding, for example, from Killarney southwards to Glen-
gariffe and Bantry, have confessed to the writer their mistake
with bitter regret.
Mr. Mecredy speaks well of the roads around the Westiiieath Lakes, and
of those in County Kildare north of the Curragh and Carlow Junction.
For further details and many interesting suggestions the cyclist should
get Jlr. Mecredy's excellent little Road Book of Ireland, No. 1 for the South,
and No. 2 for the North {Irish Cyclist Office, 34 Lower Abbey Street, Dublin).
SCENERY
The three principal scenery districts are undoubtedly County
Kerry, including the country round Killarney and the finest
parts of the Waterville Promontory ; Connemara, with its de-
lightful Kylemore, Letterfrack, and Killary ; and Donegal,
which boasts of such rare holiday grounds as Carrick, Gweedore,
and Lough Swilly. By this, however, we do not for a moment
mean that charming scenery cannot be found elsewhere. Lough
Gill in Sligo, Achill Island, the Glens of Antrim, the slopes of
Slieve Donard in Down, Killiney Hill near Bray, Lough Tay with
the always popular Dargle, Powerscourt, and Glendalough in
County Wicklow, to say nothing of many other beauty spots —
these all deserve high praise. In many a bay, and on many a
headland of the north and south coasts, or along the little-
b
xviii INTRODUCTION
kuowu dills of sea-beat Mayo, the tourist will find much to
delight and charm. But it must be allowed that the claims of
the Emerald Isle to a high position among the scenery districts
of the British Isles rest ultimately upon the merits of the most
beautiful spots in Donegal, Connemara, and Kerry, and par-
ticularly in the two latter.
The scenery-hunter will therefore give first preference to the
coast-line, for, as has been pointed out, much that Ireland
possesses of picturesque beauty is to be found on or in the im-
mediate neighbourhood of the seaboard, if we except some river
scenery on the Nore or the Blackwater, and a part of Lough
Erne. The very heart, indeed, of this island, which has no
backbone and no geographical centre, is frequently a waste of
bog, where mud -cabins as black as the peat in the midst of
which they rise are rare objects.
Taking the country all round, the climate will be found
moister and warmer than that of England. Moister distinctly,
for "the rainfall for the whole island averages 36 inches," whilst
the same for England is only 30 inches. Erin consequently
holds its own in this respect among all the countries of Europe ;
no other is so abundantly supplied with rain. The downpour
off the west coast is so great indeed at certain seasons that
occasionally the neighbouring sea "becomes covered with a
thick layer of fresh water " (Forbes).
On page 337 will be found a special note on the general
characteristics of Donegal, and another on the chief features of
Connemara is given on pages 215, 216.
FISHING
"The climate of Ireland," says Major T. B. Traherne, "is
milder than that of any other part of the kingdom. The tem-
perature of the water is consequently much higher than in either
England or Scotland, and many newly-run salmon will be found
in early sjiring in the upper waters of Irish rivers where obstruc-
tions exist. The majority of them, however, seem to object to
face an obstruction until about the month of Ajiril, when the
w(!atlier gets warm. In Irish rivers, where the temperature is
generally high for the time of year, spring salmon will, on
INTRODUCTION xix
leaving the sea, make for the lakes as quickly as possible if there
be no obstruction." ^
During recent years salmon have been scarce, a result prob-
ably of the state of the climate in the west. The last heat-wave
seems to have passed over Ireland and Scotland in 1865, and, in
the opinion of an old Fishing-rod,* "the salmon scarcity is only
in compliance with the ordained circles of plenty and scarcity."
Mackerel, again, are now eating up the food in shoals ofif the
west coast ; but what will you have when they go ? — the harvest
of salmon. "Let the mackerel skedaddle," writes the same
sportsman, ' ' and when the salmon have food they will come
back. This is not theory ; it is founded on the facts that are
recorded in the Annals of the Four Masters ! "
A third cause is of a less speculative nature. "We refer to
the use of "cross lines." Efforts to suppress it have aroused
unexpected difficulties. In the western wilds this is not only
an old-established custom of the peasants, but an important
means of obtaining food. Suppression therefore spells suffering
to hundreds of Irishmen and their families. Many, on the
other hand, point to its disastrous effects upon the sport of the
angling holiday-maker, and continue to cry aloud their griev-
ance.^
The best time of year for Irish fishing — at least as regards
salmon and trout — is without doubt the early season from April
to the end of June ; and we reluctantly advise those parents
whose holidays might be timed by the closing of the schools
to be guided by Mr. Ohokuondeley Pennell's experience, that
"throughout Scotland, Ireland, and Wales fishing is worst in
August."
The principal fish are, of course, salmon and trout. Among
the latter the white or sea trout is common, and rarer kinds
may be met with in the Boddagh of Loughs Neagh, Mask,
Melvin, Erne, and Corrib, The famous gillaroo is described
elsewhere (p. xxi). Grayling are as rare in Ireland as in
Scotland.
1 See Fishing, in Badminton Library.
2 G. P. Kinahan.
* To the same evil in another form is undoubtedly due, in a great degree,
the fact that sportsmen seek for grouse north of the Tweed, and partridges
in Norfolk and Suftblk. The Irish moors are naturally as good for red
grouse as in any part of Britain-, and grouse disease is comparatively rare in
the country.
XX INTRODUCTION
Wtstmeath Lakes are famed throughout the world of
whippers. A note on the best centres and accommodation will
be found on p. 191. The time for rare good sport here is when
the May fly appears. Then, if the natural insect itself, and
used with a "blow-line," this fly is deadly ; indeed, as Mr. H.
R. Francis says, "it kills, as in England, almost to the exclu-
sion of every other fly." These waters are, of course, the natural
habitat of the art of "blow-line" fishing, a curious method,
which can be seen in full swing from the middle of May to the
middle of Juno.
South- East. — The streams in the south-east corner of the
country are, as a rule, much over-fished, and even on Lough
Dan, and the Dargle in Wicklow, the supply will not often
satisfy the demand of the enthusiast.
Waierford arid Cork. — The principal river here is the Black-
water, a favourite with all big fishermen, and famed for its
salmon. Mallow, Fermoy, and Lismore are all good centres,
the latter, with its comfortable hotel, especially (see p, 125).
Macroom, now an important tourists' quarters and an hour's
ride by rail from Cork, as well as Inchigeelah, have old reputa-
tions for the salmon waters in their neighbourhood (p. 149).
Round Killarncy in Kerry, in many of the streams, and in
Lough Guitane (p. 165), and other loughs, there are, as a rule,
large quantities of fish. For Caragh Lake and its river, farther
west, the angler will use Caragh Lake Hotel ; higher up the
last-mentioned stream is Glencar Hotel. Parknasilla (p. 168),
only a few miles from the Kerry Blackwater, and to a greater
degree Waterville (p. 165), are both very popular angling resorts.
Lougli Curranc and its streams will provide plenty of whipping
for visitors at the latter place.
The Shminon. — The best of this famous angling river is tlie
celebrated reach between Killaloe and Limerick. This is strictly
preserved, but tickets can always be purchased by anglers, and
convenient hotels can be found at Killaloe, Castleconnel, and
Limerick (pp. 186, 187, 176). On this section, as on the Erne,
the popular and deadly bait during the spring months is the
prawn. The upper waters of the river contain an abundance
of good fish, and can be well worked from Carrick-on-Shannon
or Boyle (pp. 252, 251). Athlone (p. 195) is the best quarter
for Lough Ree, and Portumna (p. 189) for Lough Derg. It
will be of interest to note that the Shannon fishermen are
INTRODUCTION xxi
exceptionally clever at "gaflBng. " The best killing hours for
salmon are, according to Major T. B. Traherne, nine to one, and
four till dusk.
Conneinara. — The most popular streams among the Galway
waters have, to speak generally, been somewhat overworked
during recent years, but here, as in County Clare, there are
many opportunities in the more remote districts for the adven-
turous to discover haunts of trout which are at present undis-
turbed. South of the Twelve Bells there are numerous and
popular centres, and excellent hotels exist at Recess, Deradda,
Cashel, etc. (see p. 219). Lough Corrib and Lough Mask, east
of Connemara, have long - established reputations. For the
former you will find hotels at Galway, Oughterard, Headford,
or Cong ; Leenane and Cong will do for the latter,^ For
some fishing rivers between Screeb Bridge and Galway, see p.
219.2 For Screeb district fishing, apply to H. B. St. George,
Esq., Brackenagh, Ballinasloe.
Leenane is an excellent headquarters, not only for Lough
Mask, but for Lough Nafooey, Doo Lough, Delphi river, and
Erriff river.
Mayo is not much better known as a fishing ground than as a
tourists' country, but report tells of bull-trout in Killala Bay,
of good baskets made on the Moy river, and of salmon and trout
fishing round Mallaranny, near Achill Island (p. 232).
Round Sligo anglers find fair sport on Lough Gill, Glencar
Lough (p. 247), Drumcliff river, and some streams falling into
Sligo Bay.
Fermanagh is indeed a land of many waters, of which Lough
Melvin is the chief. It can be well fished from Bundoran (p.
248) and also Garrison. Here run good lake trout, occasional
"ferox," salmon, and the far-named gillaroo.
The remarkable variation of the gillaroo consists in the thickening of the
coats of the stomach so as to aflford muscular power for dealing with its
peculiar shell-fish food. Great numbers have been caught in this lough by
1 In Lough Corrib pike of enormous weight have occasionally been
caught. Stories indeed are afloat of a "jack" once landed here which
reached as much as 50 lbs. ! Anyhow, these Corrib pike, says Mr. Chol-
mondeley Pennell, " fight like demons."
2 In 1899 a lad of seven years hooked a good-sized salmon on one of his
father's lakes at Screeb, after playing it for three-quarters of an hour without
assistance. The fish was eventually netted by the boatman. The feat was
accomplished with a 10-feet trout rod, and G. B. Bligh St. George was the
name of the youthful follower of old Izaak.
xxii INTRODUCTION
the present generation of anglers, and it is the headquarters of this flsh.
An eminent master of the gentle art has declared his opinion that in
colouring " the glUaroo trout is distinctly the most beautiful flsh in thr
British Islands." It is also occasionally met in Loughs Neagh, Boffin,
Oorrib, and Mask.i
Then Belleek and Ballyshannon are good places for seekers
after liull-trout and the fishing in Lower Lough Erne, whilst
for Upper Lough Erne, which contains salmon, trout, and pike,
both Enniskillen and Newton Butler offer convenient hotels.
County Donegal ranks among the first angling districts in
Ireland, and there is much to be said about the good salmon
and trout waters to be found in the Rosses and other parts of it.
But on p. 339 we have given a special note on the best head-
quarters, and it will be therefore unnecessary here to do more
than refer to it.
Of the Antrim rivers the Banu can be conveniently fished
from Coleraine, Ballymoney, and Kilrea, and contains both
salmon and trout. The Bush is strictly preserved, but the
streams running into Ballycastle (p. 323) contain fair fish.
Trout are occasionally to be had out of the streams dropping
into Cushendun and Cushendall. Lough Neagh is at the far
southern corner of the county. It affords trout-fishing, and
contains some gillaroo and "ferox." The latter, however, is
there known as the " BoJdagh," and the smaller fish are locally
named "dolochans," as in Loch Awe.
Between Down and Dublin the principal trout streams are
those falling into Dundalk Bay, the Lower Boyne, and the
Lilfey.
GEOLOGY
The geologist will note that the formations in Ireland belong
to the oldest and newest periods which are represented in the
British Isles. On the one hand the Cambrian, Silurian, Old Red
Sandstone, and Carboniferous rocks, and on the other the
Cretaceous, I^Iioccne, Pliocene, and Post -Pliocene are well
developed. Tlie Mesozoic, or secondary strata, however, between
these, are hard to find, and, in fact, the "knight of the hammer"
from Great Britain will be struck by their absence.
Carboniferous limestone covers the surface of the vast central
1 See Fishing, Badminton Library.
INTRODUCTION xxiii
plain of the country, and is at the same time responsible for the
featureless character of that, the least picturesque portion of
Ireland. In the sea-girt ring of varied rocks which forms this
dull plain's setting lies all that is most beautiful in Erin.
From under this bed of limestone rises in the south and
south-west a long tract of Old Red Sandstone, extending from
Waterford to Dingle ; whilst above it there lies between Dingle
and the Moher cliffs of Glare a great triangle of millstone grit
and coal. Then comes a long break. From Galway Bay to
Lough Foyle stretches a long and much-indented coast-line of
cliffs which are for the greater part Silurian metamorphic.
Interruptions in this, however, are caused by the Archsean rocks
between Galway and the Quartzite barriers of the Twelve Bens ;
the Upper Silurian wedge between Leenane and Louisburgh ; the
crescent of limestone round Sligo and Donegal Bays ; and the
granite tract of the Rosses in West Donegal.
A very interesting field of Trap rocks lies between Coleraine
and Belfast, across the county of Antrim. This is broken only
by the basalt of the Giant's Causeway, and the square patch
covering the glens of Antrim between Knocklayd and Garron
Point, which is of the same character as the surface of the larger
portion of Donegal and Connemara.
Belfast is at the north end of a long sheet of Lower Silurian ;
this disappears again near the Boyne, and from about its centre
rise the granite highlands of the Mourue Mountains.
Besides the latter mountains and the "Rosses" district
referred to, granite will be observed also in the isolated western
height of Croagh Patrick, and again in the hills of Wicklow.
The surface of Ireland bears many marks of glaciation, and
abundant evidences of the later effects of that " invasion of Ulster
by a great ice-sheet from the Grampian mountains of Scotland
during the earliest stage of the glacial period."
Eskers, moraines, perched-blocks, and " striae " markings can
be seen in many of the tourist districts. For the establishment
of the geologist's chief data in this matter a great debt is due,
as Professor Hull observes, to the Rev. Maxwell Close. The
whole subject is dealt with fully in the second part of Professor
Hull's own book, which we name below.
" Ireland has been designated by a distinguished German
xxiv INTRODUCTION
naturalist ' The land of the Giant Stag and the Giant's Cause-
way.' In all parts of the island we find the remains of the Great
Irish Deer {Megaceros Hihcrnicus), which here flourished and
abounded to an extent not elsewhere known. He, however,
was only one of the group of animals which once lived and
roamed there, but which have now either become extinct or
migrated to other climes. Among these we may name the
Mammoth and the Reindeer, both discovered at Dungarvan, and
the Bear, the Wolf, and the Wild Boar.
[The Physical Geology and Geography of Ireland, by Dr. Edw. Hull
(Stanford) ; and tlie Explanatory Memoirs accompanying the maps of the
Geologicil Survey of Ireland, are reconiniended. There is an interesting
geological model of Ireland on a large scale in Dublin Museum.)
ARCHEOLOGY
Ireland is so rich a field for the archseologist that he will thank us for not
attempting to do more in this limited space than to suggest merely which
are the principal departments of ancient art represented in the country, and
how he may find out the principal specimens of each, and the best autho-
rities which may help him to study them.
Every visitor interested in this subject should certainly provide himself
with that fascinating and well - illustrated little book, Miss M. Stokes's
Early Christian Art in Ireland, parts 1 and 2 (Chapman and Hall : 4s.). Very
useful books also are the sixpenny Handboolcs published by the Royal Society
of Antiquaries of Ireland (Hodges and Figgis, Dublin).
We take first the ancient buildings : —
(1) PRE-CHRISTIAN
The builders of the Dolmens, or cromlechs, seem to have moved westward,
and cast the last wave of their art over the west coast of Ireland. In innny
of the cromlechs have been found bones, with arrow-heads and other imple-
ments. JEiam;)Ics.-— Cloughmore (Down), Tyreragh (Sligo), Kilteman
(Dublin).
In the Tumuli, or mounds, a later and more advanced stage was reached.
Their use is pretty evident, for in every instance in Ireland the traces of
um-burial have been found. Many of the urns exhibit a state of art which
is not of the earliest grade ; and the decoration of the walls is a peculiar
feature. Examples :— RathhiW (Drogheda), Loughanmore, Tully Druid,
Dysart (Westmeath), the "Royal Cemeteries" of New Grange, Dowth,
Teltown, and Rathkenny (see p. 43, etc.).i
1 A note on the Oijha-ni Inscriptions may be of use. The Ogham alphabet
Ib said to have been originally deciphered by Bishop Graves of Limerick.
More than 200 inscriptions of this character have been found, chiefly in the
S.W of Ireland. For an interesting though short account we refer the
reader again to Miss Stokes's book — mentioned above. The alphabet
INTRODUCTION xxv
Forts (cathairs, calm-s) probably belong to the late Celtic period, 200 B.C. to
100 A.D. These are chiefly found on the west coast of Sligo, Galway, Olare,
and Kerry, where Lord Dunraven examined two dozen specimens. They are
built without cement, but are distinctly "buildings," have doorways, and
in construction are "marvellously fine." The round "beehive" huts of
stone called cloghauns which are often found within these forts are probably
of the same age. Fine examples are Dun Aengus, Dun Conor, Dun Oghil,
and Murvey Mil in Aran, and Staigue in County Kerry (see pp. 210, 167).i
(2) CHRISTIAN
Christian monasteries were introduced into Ireland somewhere between the
3rd and the 5th centuries, and " the first monks merely adopted the method
of building then practised among the natives." They often formed their
settlements within the castle of the old Firbolg chieftains, and on Inis-
murray2 and other places we still find ruins of these early oratories, huts,
wells, and gardens remaining within the protecting wall of the older pagan
cashel.
The earliest oratories were of stone, and oblong, averaging in length no
more than 14 feet.3 Their walls were, as a rule, of slabs sloping like steps in
a curve till they met at the top. The commonest type took the shape of
"an upturned boat." Of these the finest specimen in existence is that at
Gallerus,4 but many still remain along the west coast. The later ones were
of a different shape and resembled rather an ark or shrine, but not, it will
be noticed, a basilica. These oratories were often built on tops of mount-
ains and in mountain tams.B For intense wildness and romantic situation
perhaps no early Christian settlement in Western Europe can rival that of
Skellig Michael — the " Michael's Mount of Ireland." 6
In the 6th and 7th centuries appeared the first churclies built with
cement and bearing marks of chisel-work. In those which remain the door-
ways are made of inclined jambs surmounted by a straight lintel, Egyptian
fashion ; and the east window has generally a round head scooped out of
one stone. These buildings were originally one chamber only, as the
chancels now existing are "evidently additions of a later period " ; and none
had at that early date developed into the cruciform shape. Then came the
9th-century developments. Evidences of these are seen in such churches as
Friar's Island, Killaloe ; St. Columba's, Kens'? ; St. Kevin's House, Glenda-
lough 8 ; all of which may be assigned to the period 800-820 a.d.
It was probably between the 9th and 13th centuries that the famous
Round. Towers were built. Their date and use have been the subject of
consists of lines arranged on the left and right sides of a base line ; these are
of different lengths, and, in certain cases, of difi'erent angles. " Almost
all which have been deciphered present merely a proper name, with its
patronymic, both in the genitive case." (See Sir Sam. Ferguson's Ogham
Inscriptio7is. Prof. Rhys of Cambridge is a great authority.)
1 Lis, a circular earthen fort ; Bath, or Rah, circular foifc ; Cathair (caher),
circular stone fort ; Dun (docm, dou-n), fortified fort or royal residence.
2 P. 249. 3 p. 249. 4 P. 170
5 P. 349. 6 p. 167. 7 P. 47. 8 P. 258.
xxvi INTRODUCTION
long diflcUBsion among tin? archifologists. Dr. Petrie placed their erection
between the 6th and 18th centuries ; Lord Dunraven, on the other hand,
decided npon the period of the 0th or 10th centuries, and "traced the type
from Ireland through France to Ravenna." Miss Stokes combines the in-
formation, and concludes from tlip facts adduced by both that, as indeed
their ancient name cioic<r MfoA or "bell-house" suggests, their primary use
was to hold the chief bell of the monks, and that in times of distress and
attack they were used as "keeps of the Monasteries" for the preservation
of the sacred vessels and treasures.
They have been classed under three periods of erection : — (1) 890-927 a.d.,
the period of the horizontal lintel ; (2) 973-1033, the beginning of the early
"Romanesque"; (3) 1170-1235, Decorated Romanesque.
The two tallest towers are Scattery (125 ft., p. 183) and Monasterboice
(110 ft., p. 41). Lusk (100 ft., p. 39) and Clondalkin (85 ft., p. 92) are easily
reached from Dublin. For Devenish, see p. 257.
Tliere were 118 of these towers standing in Ireland at the beginning of the
19th century, and besides those at Brechin and Abemethy in Scotland, there
are good specimens at Ravenna, St. Maurice Eplnal, Fisa, and other places
on the Continent. Bngland may once have had two, at Hythe and
Abingdon.
Irish Romanesque.— In 1007, fifty years before Edward the Confessor
laid the foundation of the Abbey of Westminster, the little church called
after St. (}ainiin w.is built on Iniscaltra.i This marks the introduction of
"Romanesque" work into Ireland, which is akin to the Norman Archi-
tecture of EngUmd ; of which specimens may be seen at Glendalough, Clon-
macnois, Maphera, and Danagher. Some hundred years afterwards the more
eUborate decoration of doorways and arcading appears in such churches as
Kilnialke<Jar, Cashel,2 Ardmore, Ardfort, and Killeshin.
With the 13th century came in the Anglo-Norman style as a result of the
Anglo-Norman invasion (1109), and churches and castles soon arose which
closely resembled those known to the invaders in their own country.
Some of the best specimens of later architecture in Ireland built after the
12th century may be seen in the Dublin Cathedrals, Cashel, Holy Cross,
Adare, Jerpoint, Sligo, and Muckross.s
Architecture, however, was only one of the forms in which the genius of
the Irlhh race fuuud ex))re8sion. In the marvellously beautiful specimens
•till prfjierved of their advanced skill in stone sculpture, a)idmore especially
in metal-work and the illumination of manuscripts, there are abundant
evidencea of the exceptional artistic powers of the people in early Christian
UmM.
Of sculptured stones the most Important are the High Orosses, in
which Ireland is remarkably rich. It is probable that the ornament and
ioacripUoDi of these, of which 46 are now known, point to a date not earlier
» I'. 188. 2 Pp. 170, 08, 121, etc.
» I'p. 9. 11, 93, 96, 180, 137, 245, 103
INTRODUCTION xxvii
than the 10th century. The best are the crosses of Clonmacnois,
Monasterboice, Durrow, Tnam, Kells, and Kilfenora (Clare).i
Metal-work. — It seems probable that when, or at any rate soon after
St. Patrick landed in Ireland, attended by " a multitude of holy bishops,"
artists and metal-workers followed him from Gaul. This was about the 5th
century, and by these and their successors the latent abilities of these wild
westerns were slowly developed. At first the products were of a very rough
type, but by the 10th century a high degree of skill had been reached.
Many costly hook-thHnes were made and distributed far and wide, with the
copies of the gospels which they covered.
These book-covers or cwndach!: were much in use between the 10th and
16th centuries. The oldest extant, the cumdach of Molaise's gospels, is
dated at 1001-1025 a.d. by Miss Stokes. It is now at Dublin (p. 15).
But of all its metal-work it is its ancient bells that bring Ireland most
fame in the eyes of the archaeologist. Between 50 and 60 of these still
remain, and among them the rudely-formed iron bell of St. Patrick, now at
Dublin. Tliis is believed to have been made as early as 406 a.d., and thus,
with its unbroken history through fourteen himdred years, is "the most
authentic and the oldest Irish reUc of Christian metal-work." There are
some other good specimens in the Dublin Museum. Then, again, the bells
themselves had shrines or covers, additions which "seem to be unknown in
any other branch of the Christian Church." Of the six fine examples still
remaining, several may be seen in the National Museum.
The Irish crosier was "the covering made to protect the old oak stafl or
walking-stick of the founder of the church in which it had been preserved " ;
it was thus distinguished from all other crosiers of the middle ages. Ex-
amples :— The croisers of Clonmacnois, Dysart, Berach, Cashel, Glendalougli
(Dublin) and of Lismore (Lismore) (p. 15). .
The most celebrated individual specimens, however, of all these treasures
of ancient Irish metal art do not belong to any of tbe above classes.
These are the exquisite Tara Brooch, the unique Ardagh Chalice, and the
delicately beautiful Cross of Cong, the dates of which are given on pp. 14, 15.
Lastly, we have to note that branch of early monastic art which in Ire-
land was first in date and at the same time most perfect in result — the art
of niumination. "It seems to have been carried to its greatest excellence
at the close of the 7th and beginning of the 8th centuries. The character of
the ornament is not wholly of native origin, but the use of ornament, the
fine judgment displayed in its application, the exhibition of taste, the know-
ledge of architectural design, distinguish the Irish school from the Celtic
work elsewhere."
The finest Irish MS. is the famous Book of Kelts, for a note on which see
page 8. Of others, such as the Book of Durrow, the Book of Armagh (807
A.D.), of Dimma (620), the "Garland" of Howth (6th century), etc., some
may be seen at Trinity College in Dublin.
1 Pp. 199, 41, 204, 47, etc. A note on p. 47 respecting the subjects of
sculpture will be of interest.
xxviii INTRODUCTION
[In Miss Stokes's book, referred to above, page xxiv, will be found several
exhaustive lists of the best modern authorities on the leading departments of
ancient Irish art. It is sufficient here to name the greatest works, which
can generally be consulted at the chief Dublin libraries :— Petrie's Ecdtsias-
tkal ArchUerture of Ireland ; Lord Dunraven's Notes on Irish Architecture
(many photographs); Petrie's Christian Inscriptions in the Irish Language;
Kemble's Horce Ferales (or Irish Metal-work) ; Dr. Reeves' AruAtnt Irish
Caligraphy, and Westwood's Anglo-Saxon and Irish MSS.]
AGRICULTURE AND INDUSTRIES
The present unsatisfactory state of agriculture in Ireland is due un-
doubtedly to past mistakes made in land legislation and government,
aggravated by the unwise enactmeut-i against exportation in the time of the
Tudora, and to the disturbed state of the country in more recent years. To
these we must look for the primary causes ; the apathy so generally observed
to-day is but the intermediate factor and the natural outcome of auch
antecedents.
The most imiwrtant among recent measures promoted in the interests of
Irish agriculture has l>een the Agricultural Technical Instruction Act, the
passing of which has been largely due to the efforts of Mr. Gerald Balfour ;
though it is only fair to add that Lord Londonderry was the first to advocate
such a measure. The principles of this Act, if wisely carried out, and if
accepted and used in the proper spirit by those whom it was intended to
benefit, contain in themselves much good for the country. But, as Mr.
Balfour himself has pointed out, it is not to be expected that the advantages
of the working of the Act will be seen for some time. " Reference," he has
said, " has been made to the cases of Denmark and Wiirtemberg, and no
doubt the establishment of institutions such as they had created under this
measure had promoted progress in those two countries. But in Denmark
and Wurtemberg progress had been slow. It required at least a generation
before the results were felt. The reason why the process of improvement
must necessarily be a slow one, was that what tliey had to aim at was not so
much a change in external conditions as a change in men's habits and attitude
of mind, which did not change with rapidity. It was, in fact, the old lesson
of sclf-hi-lii." Mr. Balfour here undoubtedly strikes at the root of the whole
matter. It is waste of energy to work for the improvement of Irish agricul-
ture unless the chief efforts be expended upon the farmer himself. Ireland
has been lately called the land " where no one is in a hurry," this is certainly
true of the Hibernian agriculturist. The Saint Patrick of the future will
be lie who stirs him to make haste.
For the information of the visitor who may be for the first time in the island
we should add that the most fertile part is the tract in Munster known as
the "Golden Vale," between Cashel in Tipperary and Limerick.
Afl with Mr. Gerald Balfour's ellorts, so also with the Congested District
Board. This has been working very hard for over ten years, and yet is
able to create changes so slowly that the public, as Mr. Balfour says, fancy
" tliat they are not doing auy work at all." It caunot be doubted that time
INTRODUCTION xxix
will bring the reward. Their eflbrts have been concentrated chiefly
upon the "distressful country" of the west coast,— such as the poorest
districts of Donegal, Mayo, Connemara, and Kerry. If the reader wish to see
for himself in wliat stricken condition the least fortunate of his own country.
men exist, we recommend a visit thither, — to either Gorumna Island in Southern
Connemara, or the cabins near Adrigole on Bantry Bay. The experience is a
painful one, but it wiU convince him of the truth of the statement that " the
benefactor is not the inventor of a new party cry, but of a new art or profit-
able occupation."
To indicate briefly the methods of the Congested District Board it is
suflBcienthere to name the Prevention of Potato Disease, Tree Culture, Horse-
breeding, Pig-breeding, Poultry-farming, Tweed and Cloth weaving, and the
important measures carried out in the interests of the Sea Fisheries as
branches of their work.i To conclude our note we venture to quote the pithy
remarks of Mr. Stephen Gwynn : "The Congested Districts Board has been
so busy in the west of Donegal that it has generated an adjective. There is
a 'congested' bridge over the Gweebarra River, 'congested' roads carry
you over much of the country, and you may meet ' congested ' fish being
hawked all the way from the Bloody Foreland down into Cavan." 2
Finally, there has been the Land Act of 1903, from which great advan-
tages are expected through the purchase of the land by the tillers.
Except in the case of linens, poplins, and laces, we fancy few English
purchasers would ask for a product of Irish industry. Yet the field covered
by that industry is even to-day of far wider extent. To give it a still greater
hold upon the English market was the praiseworthy aim of the King and
Queen (then the Prince and Princess of Wales) in opening the Mansion House
Exhibition on St. Patrick's.Day 1900. Two sales of Irish products are held
every year, and by means of these the Irish Industries Association have been
enabled to send increasingly large sums for the relief of the poorer districts.
The year 1900 was undoubtedly a red-letter year in the tistory of Erin, and
neither the trne Irishman himself nor his well-wisher in Britain can be slow
to appreciate the significance of the late Queen's beneficent visit to Dublin in
the spring of that year. Nor was the Transvaal war without its efl'ects in this
respect. " The Irish regiments, faithful alike to their Queen and to the long-
established and often-confirmed traditions of their valour and their loyalty,
have done more to promote the Imperial interests of Ireland than could have
been accomplished by legislators in a generation, and they have gilded every-
thing Irish with a halo of romance which is not likely soon to disappear. "3
The subsequent interest of King Edward and his gracious consort in the
country has had a most beneficent eSect. It is not our place here to enter
into political questions, but an instance of the change of feeling which has
taken place in Ireland of late was afforded in a remark made to the editor
by a leading Irish Nationalist. Discussing the proposed visit of the King
and Queen in 1904, he remarked, " Of coiu-se we shall give them a real Irish
welcome. When the Parliament meets on College Green we want the King
1 See Annual Report of Congested District Board for Ireland. Hodges and
Figgis, Dublin, 4d. Purdon's Almanac for Fanners, 23 Bachelor's Walk, Dublin,
Is., contains much useful information on Irish Agriculture generally.
'^ Highways and Byevays in Donegal and Antrim.
3 Times, March 17, 1900.
xxxii INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
The following books are recommended :—
The Origin of Irish Place Names, by Dr. P. W. Joyce. (Gill, Dublin. 10s.
or Is.)
The question as to the injliience of Egypt upon Irish history is treated by
Mr. George Coffey in the Joum. of Roy. Soc. Antiquaries of Ireland, 1895. In
the same journal for 1897 Mr. W. Frazer demonstrates that Roman Britain
was the most available source for the large quantities of gold used by the
early Irish metal-workerg.
Irish Life and Character, by Michael MacDonagh (Hodder and Stoughton) :
a delightful collection of anecdotes. Also the equally charming Seventy
Years of Irish Life, by W. R. Le Fanu. (Edw. Arnold.)
Climbing in the British Isles, Pt. II. Wales and Ireland, by H. 0. Hart.
(Longmans.)
Thorn's Irish Almanac (Dublin) may be consulted with advantage for good
statistical and general information (anuual ; large).
GREAT SOUTHERN RAILWAYS
CONTENTS or PINK PAGES
PAGE
Summer Steamers for Killarney Section
iii
Summer Gars ., „ . .
iii
Summer Steamers for Galway Section
V
Summer Cars ., „ . .
vi
Summer Steamers for Belfast Section .
vii
Summer Cars „ „ . . .
vii
(i)
BLACK'S GUIDE TO IRELAND (KILLARNEY
SECTION)
[The Official A.B.C. Irish Railway Guide (Office, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin), and
Falconer's A.B.C. Irish Guide (Upper Sackville Street, Dublin) ; post
free, bd. each, are reoomniended.]
Pa^ein SUMMER STEAMERS
this book
122. Blackwater Steamers. — A steamer runs betweeu Youghal and
Cappoquiu from early in June to Sept. 30. The times of
departure, between 8.30 a.m. and 7 P.M., in each direction, vary
according to the tide, and on certain days there are no sailings
from one end.
Fares (ordinary). Single, 2s. and Is. 6(1.
Return, 3s. and 2s.
For details apply Secretary, Youghal and Blackwater
Tourist Steamship Co., Ltd., Youghal.
131. Waterford Steamers.
To Belfast, Sat. To Liverpool, Sun. Wed. Fri.
,, Bristol, Tues. r „„,,;„„ «r.f
/^ 7 mu ,, London, fiSit.
,, Cork, Thurs. " '
,, Dover, Sat., 4 p.m. ,, Newhaveu, Sat.
„FishgiMrd,A^\\Y,bv.u. „ Plymouth, Wed.
„ Glasgow, Mon. Wed., about "J '
1 P.M. ,, Southampton, Sat., 4 p.m.
98. Goold's Cross Station to Cashel. — Car leaves, if passengers
offer, at 9. 45, 11.48 a.m.; VA.h-i. 4.24. 5.48 p.m.
Fares 2s. 6d. each way.
142. Bantry to Killarney (•' Prince of Wales Route" — by Motor
Char-a-bancs).
P..M.
A.M.
Bantry . . . dep.
7.0
Killarney .
. dep.
',>.30
GlengarritfH . . arr.
8.0
Kenmare
. arr.
11.15
Dep. next morning
A.M.
P.M.
from Glengarriffe .
0..SO
,,
. dep.
3.15
Kenmare . . arr.
11.15
Glengarnffe
. arr.
5.0
P.M.
I)
. dep.
5.45
,, . . . dep.
3.0
Killarney . . arr.
5.15
Bantry
. arr.
6.45
148.
Macroom to Glengarriffe (by Motor Char-a-banc).
Macroom
Keinianeigli
dep.
. (I rr.
,, . . dep.
Glengarriffe . . arr.
Killarney (sec above).
A.M.
10.15
P.M.
12.0
12.45
2.30
(iii)
Killarney (see above).
Glengarriffe . . d
Keinianeiiih . . a
Macroom
dep.
arr.
I'.M.
3.0
4.4.".
5.30
7.15
Faqe in
this book
SUMMER CARS -contuuwd
]6-)-<j. Cahirciveen to Parknasilla
(Grand Atlantii- Coast loule — l>y -Motor Char-a-hauc).
P.M.
A.M.
Caliin
ivei'ii .
. ilej,.
1.45
Parknasilla .
. tlep.
9.30
Watei
ville .
. nrr.
. dep.
•-'.40
2.0-0
Waterville .
. arr.
. (kp.
17.30
I'.M.
12.0
rarkiiasilla
. arr. \
4.55
Cahirciveen .
. arr.
1.0
165-6.
Parknasilla to Kenmare (hy Motor Char-a-bauc).
A.M.
P.M.
P.M.
l\-irkiia.silla
. dep.
0 .'>
12.30
1.45
Kenmare
. arr.
10.20
1.45
3.0
A.M.
A.M.
I'.M.
Kenmare
. drp.
10. -io
11.30
P.M.
4.10
Parknasilla .
. arr.
11.45
12.45
.5.25
For Fares and other details of above Motor Services apply to Tourist
Ucvelopment {Ireland), Ltd., 30 Molesu-arth Street, Dvhlin.
(iv)
BLACK'S GUIDE TO IRELAND (GALWAY SECTION)
[The Official A. B.C. Irish Railway Guide (Office, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin), and
Falconer's A.B.C. Irish Guide (Upper Sackville Street, Dublin); post
free, bd. each, are reconamended.]
Page in SUMMER STEAMERS
this book
176. Lower Shannon (Limerick and Kilrush, Limericlc S.S. Company,
Li'iiierick).
Up to the last week in June, two or three times weekly, from
Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick.
Commencing from the last week in June, almost every weekday
from Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick.
The steamers stop at Kildysart, Redgap (Labasheeda), and Tarhert
(for Listowel) — unless otherwise announced.
There are also frequent excursions both weekdays and Sundays.
197. Upper Shannon (see " Guide tn Shannon Lakes," the F. IF. Crossley Pub-
lishing Co., Ltd., Dublin, 3W.).— Tourist steamers now run daily
during tourist season, Sundays excepted, between Banagher and
Killaloe, with train connections at either end. A special day trip
is run from Kingsbridge Station, Dublin, t(j Banagher, thence by
steamer to Killaloe, and rail back to town, arriving at 10.25 p.m.
Return Fares, including luncheon ancl tea on steamer: — 1st class, 13s.;
3rd class, 10s. Time is allowed for dinner at Lakeside Hotel, Killaloe.
209. Galway to Aran Isles (Galwai/ Bay steamboat Company, Gahvay) on
Tues., Thur., Sat. all the year round.
•213. Galway to Ballyvaughan (see tables of above) on Men., Wed., Fri.
during July, August, and September.
234. Lough Corrib (Lough Corrib Steam.hoat Company, Galway). — A steamer
leaves Galway for Cong daily at 3 p.m. It leaves Cong for Galway
daily at 8 a.m. The steamer stops at Kilbeg on each trip, and Annagh-
down on Sats. Return Fares : — 6s. and 3s.
245. Sligo and Belmullet (see Time Tobies by Board of Works, Dublin).—
From Sligo on Tues. and Thurs. ; and from Belmullet on Wed. and
Fri. (May to Sept. inclusive ; weekly rest of year). Excursion Fares
(ret.) : — 7s. 6d. ; 5s., issued at Belmullet and Sligo (May to September
inclusive). The time-table is subject to alteration.
255. Lower Lough Erne (Programme of Great Northern Ireland Railway, Office,
Dublin). — Lake steamer every weekday from 12th June to 16th Sep-
tember.
Enniskillen . . .
. dep.
A.M.
10.45
Castle Caldwell .
. dep.
P.M.
3.10
Castle Caldwell .
. err.
P.M.
1.0
Enniskillen . .
. arr.
5.20
(V)
Pagt in
tkis hook
'-'SC. Greencastle Car
SUMMER CAB.B— continued
Greenoie (Lont'li
Steamer) . . . (/py.
Greencastle Car . . ,,
Kilkeel Car . . . arr.
Newcastle Car . . ,,
9.50
10.7
10.50
P.M.
1.0
P.M.
Newcastle Car.
dep.
3.30
Kilkeel Car . . .
ji
5.50
Greencastle Car
an:
(j.43
Greencastle (Longh
Steamer) . . .
dep.
0.45
Greenore (Lough
Steamer) . . .
arr.
9.0
27C. Warrenpoint Ferry.— Ferry-boat from Warreiipoint to Onieatli Statioi)
or vice rcrsa. <J(.l. each person.
34l'. Letterkenny Cars. -Cars leave Letterkenny at 6.3 j .\.m. daily tor Hath-
imillen and IJallimelton. {Sec G.X.R. Programme.)
s44. Donegal (Town) Cars-
Donegal . . . .
Ballvshannon . .
. dep.
. arr
Fare, '2s. each way.
P.M. jl
3.0 I Ballyshannoii
5.0 I Donegal . .
1 P.M.
dep. 3.0
arr. 5.0
30S. RathmuUen Cars (Weekdays) —
(«) To Portsalon : — j p.m. m
Ilathmullen . dep.* 1.15 Portsalon
Portsalou . err. 4.15 Rathniullen
I A.M.
dep. 8.45
arr.*\ 11.45
(I;) To Uosapenna :— I li
Kathinullen . dep.*\ 1.20 Rosapenna
Rosapenna . arr. I 5.0 !l Rathniullen
8.15
11.50
(i) To Letterkenny : —
Rathniullen, dep. 3.45 p.m. (see above).
* In connection with steamer.
Portsalon Cars.— A motor car runs between Portsalon Hotel and Letter-
k'^iny every weekday from June to September inclusive.
A.M.
A.M.
Portsalon . . .
. dep.
10.15 |Letterk(;nny . .
. dep.
11.30
P.M.
Letterkenny . .
. arr.
11.15 Portsalon . . .
. arr.
12.30
(>'«' I!. X.I!. Proiirammr.)
Creeslough to Rosapenna. — A Char-a-banc runs from Creeslough to
Rosapenna every weekday from 1st Junff to 30th September in con-
nection with 1.6 P.M. train from Letterkenny. The Char-a-banc leaves
Rosapenna at 11.15 a.m. , arriving at Creeslough in time for train leaving
Creeslough at 11.50 a.m. for Letterkenny. Fare, 2s. Od. each way.
{See G.X.J!. l'ro<irammc.)
(Viii)
iToSoJthgar &Teremjre. \ \ToWcxford.&C-
DUBLIN
Railway Stations.— (1) Great Northern, Amkns Street; (2) Great Southern
and Western, Kingsbridge : (3) Dublin and South-Eastern, Westland
Row, Harcourt Street, and Tara Street (the latter Joint with Great
Nortliern Railway) ; (4) Midland Great Western, Broadstone ; (5) North
Wall (Liffey Branch), i^ortU Wall Quay.
Hotels. — *Shelbourne (Stephen's Green) ; Gresham (Sackville Street) ;
Metropole (Sackville Street) ; Maple's (Kildare Street) ; Poioer's (Kildare
Street).
North-Western (North Wall Station); R. Hibernian (Dawson Street),
Is. 6d, lunch; ffam7;iam (Sackville Street), baths ; Do^jj/iia (Essex Street) ;
Granville (Sackville Street) ; Central (George's Street) ; Grosvenor (West-
land Row Station); J^iirj/'s (College Green), 2s. lunch; Buswell's(Molea-
worth Street), private Hotel ; Imperial (Sackville Street) ; Nationalist ;
Wicklow (Wicklow Street) ; Clarence (Wellington Quay).
Temperance. — Russell's (Stephen's Green) ; Standard (82 Harcourt Street) ;
Edinburgh (Sackville Street) ; Moran's (Lower Gardiner Street) ; Rippin-
gale's (Harcourt Street) ; Cecil (Harcourt Street).
Restaurants. — Metropole (Hotel, Sackville Street) ; Mitchell's (Grafton
Street) ; Empire (Nassau Street) ; The X.L. (Grafton Street) ; Bodega and
Hyne's (both Damo Street); The D.B.C. (Dame Street, Stephen's Green,
and Sackville Street) ; Bewley's Cafe (George Street and Westmoreland
Street) ; Princes and Cafe Cairo (both Grafton Street) ; Roberts (Suffolk
Street) ; Thompson's and Harrison's (both Westmoreland Street) ;
Larchet's (Dame Street) ; Sackville Cafe (Lower Sackville Street).
Theatres. — Theatre Royal, Hawkins Street ; Gaiety, South King Street ;
Queen's Royal, Great Brunswick Street; Empire' Theatre of Varieties,
Dame Street ; Tivoli Music Hall, Burgh Quay.
Car Pares. — (a) Within City Boundary. — "Set down" between any two
points, two persons, 6d. ; three. Is. No 6d. fare between 10 p.m. and 9
A.M. Luggage, 2d. per article, except small things. (6) Within Ten
Miles of Post Office. — First hour in borough, 2s. ; each succeeding half-
hour, 9d. For more minute details consult local tables.
Trams. —The electric system has now replaced the horse-tramways. Almost
all cars start from Nelson Pillar, Sackville Street. The Id. fares cover
2 DUBLIN
liberal distances. Tlie outward termini are Glasnevin, Drumcondra,
Howth, Sandymoimt, Dalkey, Donnybrook, Palmerston Park, Rath-
mines, Rathfarnham, Inchii ore. Steam trams run to Poulaphuca and
to Lucan.
"A HANDSOMER towii, with fewer people in it, it is impossible to
meet on a summer's day." Such was Thackeray's impression of
Dublin. But this was in '42, and the latter half of his descrip-
tion is amusingly inapplicable now. To-day the central arteries
of the city, surrounded by seven railway stations, and fed by a
dozen dilfereut tramway lines, to say nothing of the steamer at
North Wall and the Liffey barges, form one of the liveliest
scenes of traffic and business in the kingdom.
Dublin is still perhaps the largest and certainly the finest of
the cities of Ireland. The LitFe}', running from east to west,
dindes it into two parts, the southern being now considerably
the larger ; and no fewer than twelve bridges, in a distance of
two miles and a quarter, connect long lines of sti-eets running
north and south.
Seven centuries ago the great Plantagenet King gave Dublin
to the men of Bristol, coniirniing the gift by a charter. Of the
two cities the Avon seaport seems to have been most favoured
by the facts of recent history. For though Dublin fifty years
back stood well ahead of Bristol in size and national position, the
serious competition of Belfast and the late rapid increase of
Bristol have disturbed the relative importance of the two places
to such an extent that in the tournament of towns Bristol is
now bearing hard against the Irish capital. But by the Dublin
Corporation Act of 1901 the city of Dublin was extended so as to
include the townships of Clontarf, Drumcondra, and New Kilmain-
ham, with about 1365 acres of county area. The population of
the City proper is 293,38.5, and with this adilition 378,991.
There are 80 members of the municipal council. Dublin returns
8 members to Parliament ; 4 for the Borough, 2 for the County,
and 2 for the University.
Trams and cars supply transit readily and quickly to every
part of the city ; many of the shops, especially in Grafton Street,
arc as good as could be desired. It may be as well to give a
word of warning to visitors that the fust or second week after
Easter in devoted to the Punchestown races, one of the great
social events of the year, and anyone not having arranged in ad-
DUBLIN 8
vance some time beforehand will find it hard to get accommoda-
tion. The last week in August is the great Horse Show, to be
avoided for the same reason. The Castle season runs from
Feb. 1 to March 17, and very gay indeed can Irish society be
for those who have the entree. What with the Phrenix Park
Race Meetings, the University Boat Club Meetings, the various
golf fixtures, and the fetes and entertainments in the grounds of
the Royal Society at Ballsbridge, there is something for every
day in the week. Dublin is peculiarly well off for Golf Clubs ;
within easy reach by rail or train are those of Dollymount,
Portmarnock, Foxrock, Carrickmines, Malahide, Sutton, Killiney,
Bray, Greystones, Rathfarnham ; some of which names are
known far beyond the island ; the renovated course at Dolly-
mount, in fact, will be over 6500 yards, which is longer than
either of those at St. Andrews or Hoylake. The All Ireland
Polo Club has its ground in the Phcenix Park and the matches
can be freely watched. The Leopardstown Race-course (Foxrock)
is one of the finest in Ireland, with four to six meetings in the
year.
History. — The town at an early period received the name of Baile-atha-
cliath (" Bally-Ahclee"), that is, "the town of the hurdle ford," from the
" ford of hurdles constructed across the Liffey where the main road from
Tara to Wicklow crossed the river" {Joyce). The name of Duihh-linn ("the
black pool ") may be of even earlier date.
In 448, the king of Baile-atha-cliath was converted to Christianity by
the teaching of St. Patrick, and baptized at a spring on the south side
known as St. Patrick's Well. The city early became the capital of the Danish
settlements in Leinster, and fortified with a "rath," was securely defended
until Brian Boru, King of Munster, captured it (1014). The Danes, however,
were not finally crushed till the Anglo-Normans, in 1171, defeated Hasculf s
fleet, and put that prince to death. It passed to the English king, Henry
II., and he held a court at Dublin in a pavilion of wicker-work, made "after
the country manner," somewhere near St. Andrew's Church, where he enter-
tained the Irish chiefs with great pomp. Then came a curious transfer. By
the same king a charter was granted to the citizens of Bristol to hold the
city of Dublin " of him and his heirs for ever."
In the 10th year of King John, while the citizens were celebrating Easter,
they were attacked by the native Irish at Cullen's Wood, and 1500 slain.
The spot is still known as the "bloody meadow," and Easter Monday as
" Black Monday." Dublin was again peopled by citizens from Bristol, and
shortly afterwards a castle was erected on the eastern brow of the hill.
During the invasion of Ireland by Edward Bruce, after some of the churches
had been torn down to supply stones for the city walls, and some of the
suburbs saved from surrender by fire, his attacks were successfully repulsed.
The enthusiasm which crowned Lambert Simnel in Christ Church dis-
4 DUBLIN
appeared upon his appointment as scullion in the Icing's kitchen ; and the
insurrection of Lord Fitzgerald — the "Sillten Thomas," — llfty years later,
came to an end in the smoke of Henry the Eighth's artillery.
During the civil wars the Marquis of Ormonde held the city successfully
for long, but at last gave way at Kathmines. James II. held a parliament
here and established a mint ; and it was in St. Patrick's Cathedral that
William, after his battle at the Boyne, returned thanks for victory. The
insiu-rection of '"98" and the Eiumett rebellion of 1803 are well-known
events of later history. [Tlie 2 vols, of " Selections" from OUbert's "History
(if County Dutilin" are of greut interest.]
Two item.s, whicli most forciblj' arrest the attention of any-
one visiting the countr}' for the first time, are the duplication
of the street-names in Irish and English ; and the little jaunting-
cars which can be hired at a very cheap rate, und form one of
the best possi:.-le methods of sight-seeing. The jarvies, however,
like the London cabmen, until chastened by the advent of the
taximeter, do not always accept with gratitude any extra tip
that may be offered, and their obstinate conservatism is shown
in tlieir rude and lawless treatment of the fii'st motor bus which
ventured to run in the streets. A few of the men still retain
the spirit of wit which makes their shrewd observations so
delightful to the stranger, but for the most part they have lost
their gaiety, or hide it beneath a reserve \,hich it is hard to
melt. Dublin certainly does its best to be courteous to visitors ;
numerous hotels, headed by the Shelbourne, which worthily
takes rank with the first -class hotels in London, offer ac-
commodation to suit all purses. In no city in the world
perhaps are the "sights" more free, and in certain of the
museums, etc., where such things are nseful, admirably written
leaflet guides are issued at the amazing price of a halfpenny each
by the Department responsible ; these might well be copied
elsewhere. The open spaces, such as St. Stephen's Green and
Trinity Park, no less than the larger pleasure grounds further
out, such as Phoenix Park and the Botanical Gardens, are ex-
cellently managed, and not hampered by too many restrictions.
Blots there are, of course ; the slums of Dublin are notorious, and
it is impossible to reach St. Patrick's Cathedral except through
slumland ; but perhaps the slums of Dublin are, in reality, no
worse than those of Edinburgh, but only more in evidence.
The two best street-views in Dublin are that of College Green
and Dame Street, obtained by standing just in front of "Gold-
DUBLIN fi
smith," at Trinity College door ; and the view up Sackville Street,
as seen from O'Connell Bridge. On a sunny day St, Stephen's
Green is a pleasant lounge.
The chief shopping streets are Grafton Street and Sackville
Street.
Several walks through the city, which may include all the
chief sights, will be found sketched out on pages 19-30.
PRINCIPAL SIGHTS
1. The Bank of Ireland {open 10 to 3) was formerly the House
of Parliament, in College Green. It adjoins the site of " Hoggen
Green," which the discovery of ancient remains has fairly proved
to have been the earlier site of the ancient " Hogges " village.
Early in the 17th centui-y the building was sold to Sir Arthur Chichester,
Lord Lieutenant, and was named Chichester House. After the Restoration
it was purchased by Government for the Parliament House, which was mostly
built between 1729-39, under Sir E. L. Pearce's supervision, but from designs
by an unknown artist. After the Union (1801) the Bank of Ireland puichased
It for £40,000, and made considerable alterations. On the site of the ante-
room of the House of Commons the present Cash Office was erected.
The style of architecture is Grecian, but, as the exterior was
sixty years in building, and is the result of the efforts of four
different architects, it is an uncommon specimen of harmonious
patch-work. The general effect, in spite of its mingled character,
as well as the flatness of the sky-line, is pleasing and generally
admired.
The principal or southern front, facing College Green, consists
of a fa9ade and two projecting wings. In the tympanum of the
portico are the Royal Arms, and above is an emblematic figure of
Hibernia between Commerce and Fidelity. These were made by
Edward Smith from models by Flaxman. The eastern front,
facing Westmorland Street, previously the entrance to the House
of Lords, consists of a Corinthian colonnade. The Lords' entrance
is now blocked up, but "part of the lamp-hook remains over the
keystone" {Dictionary of Dublin).
The House of Lords remains unaltered save that the site of
the throne is occupied by a statue of George III. (by F. Bacon).
« DUBLIN
The chairs are in place ; the long table still in the centime. The old
tapestry still represents King William crossing the Boyne, with
Schomberg expiring almost at his horse's feet, and, on another
side, the siege of Londonderry.
The chandelier of the House of Commons is in Trinity College
Hall, and the Speaker's Chair of the same house, with the
Mace, are at Antrim Castle.
The printing of bank-notes is a most interesting process, and
should certainly be seen.
2. Trinity College, divided by the thoroughfare from the
Bank, faces College Green.
History. — In 1320 Archbishop de Becknor obtained the con-
sent of the Pope to establish a university in connection with St.
Patrick's Cathedral ; but the institution, which had not attained
much imyiortance, was suppressed, along with the religious cor-
porations, by Henry VIII. By Mary it was again revived, but it
ceased to exist on the accession of Elizabeth. In 1591 the Cor-
poration made to Lucas Challoner and Archbishop Loftus a free
grant of a site outside the city. On this site, formerly occupied
by an ancient nunnery, rose the original "College of the Holy
and Indivisible Trinity near (juxta) Dublin." This group of red
brick buildings stood just south of the present campanile up to
1759. The College was specially befriended by James I. and
Charles II., who endowed it with largo grants of confiscated lands
in various parts of Ireland. It has also received valuable bequests
from private individuals, the principal being that of Erasmus
Smith, which provides an endowment for as many as five
professorships.
By the Act of 1792 Roman Catholics were permitted to take
degrees in the University, although they continued to be excluded
from a share of its emoluments and endowments, until, by the
Act of 1873, all religious restrictions, tests, and disabilities were
removed.
The external f i';ade of the College is built of Portland atone in
the Corinthian style, and, though plain, is effective. At the
entrance are bronze statues of Golusmitii and Bujike, by Foley ;
the former is one of the best works by that sculptor. At the
doorway notice the sporting-looking gentlemen with black velvet
hunting-caps — a rare species of porter. Passing under the arch-
w.iy you enter Parmament Sqiiarr, which, with the West
DUBLIN 7
Court, was erected in 1759. On the right a Corinthian portico
marks the Examinatiox Hall (1787). Here are portraits of
Dtau Swift, who when a student here was " stopped of his degree
for dullness " ; the youthful-looking Bishop Berkeley ; Edmund
Burke, and other great Irishmen, and on the right wall Hewston's
monument of Provost Baldwin, who left a large legacy to the
College at his death. About the organ there is as wild a story as
of that in Derry Cathedral, but it is probable that its front screen
was taken from a Spanish ship in Vigo Bay. The gilt chandelier
is, to the wonder of many, made of oak, and was brought here
from the old House of Commons over the way.
Opposite, on the left side of the Square, is the Chapel (1798),
the successor of two earlier ones. In the central east window is a
copy of Raphael's ' ' Ascension, " in Munich stained-glass. Outside,
and behind, the rotting and neglected figure of Lucas Challoner,
"real founder" of the college, is a disgrace to all members of
T.C.D. Some of the best church inusic in the city may be heard
in this chapel at the Sunday morning service.
Beyond, on the same side, is the Dining Hall (1745). It
contains portraits of Grattan, Flood, Prince Frederick, etc. Here
formerly stood a block of buildings iu which Oliver Goldsmith
once had chambers.
The " Queen Anne" block, farther on, is tlie oldest part of the
buildings, and is generally known as "Rotten Row." Behind it
is the " Botany Bay " of Lever.
In the centre is Lord J. G. Beresford's graceful Campanile
(1852), too delicate a structure for its original purpose. The heavy
Gloucester bell within is now only struck, without swinging.
The red block behind the Campanile, though strikingly out of
keeping with the rest as regards style, adds colour and warmth
to what is on the whole a picturesque group of buildings.
The Library {entrance under tree immediately H. of Campanile ;
open 10 to 4) ow'es its origin to English soldiers.^ It was founded
in 1601, after the battle of Kinsale, by subscriptions of Elizabcjth's
soldiers from arrears of their pay. Dr. Challoner and Archbishop
Ussher were commissioned to select the books in London, where
they met Sir Thomas Bodley on a similar errand on behalf of his
library at Oxford. Some fifty years after, Ussher died, and it was
again the soldiers in Ireland who purchased and presented his
1 For other Libraries see p. 14.
8 DUBLIN
library to the College. The books, however, were detained in the
Castle by Cromwell's orders, and in consequence partly spoilt,
before they eventually reached their destination. By the Act of
1801 this library has, with four others, the right to claim a pre-
sentation copy of every book published in the kingdom. In 1897
alone this resulted in the addition of 3000 books.
The ancient map of the world at the top of the staircase should
be noted (date 1459). The south is at the top, and the Isle of
Man nowhere.
The interior of the Library (upstairs) is one of the finest things
in Dublin. It is a very handsome room, entirely fitted with oak
and adorned with marble busts of great writers. It contains some
priceless treasures among the many valuable books and MSS.
The principal exhibits are in the central cases, and Include, — A fragment
of a Glh-ceiitiiry Gospel of St. Matthew (" codex z ") ; the harp of the
O'Neils, dated at about 1400 by retrie, hut popularly known as "Brian
Uoru's Harj) " ; the Satcnell of the Book of Armagh (8th century Gospels) ;
and a finely illustrated " Fagel'' Missal of 1459. Of chief interest, however,
is that chef d'osuvre of ancient illuminators — the Book of Kells (650-690),
"doubtless written in the monastery of Kells, and called by Professor
Westwood ' the most beautiful book in the world.' " The delicacy of the
work is marvellous. Note the absence of gilt.
Older than this are the Gospels of Durrow, of the 7th century ; and the
Latin Gospels known as Codex Usserianus and dating back to a.d. 600. The
Crystal Case, or " Cuvidach" of the Book of Dimma, is of 13th century date ;
it was " found in 17S9 by boys hunting rabbits in Devil's Bit Mountains."
The Roll ol the Irish Parliament of 1683-90 should be noticed on the wall :
at the top right corner is Grattan's autograph.
The Geological Museum, designed by Sir Thomas Deane, is
one of the ornaments of the city, and lias been justly praised by
Mr. Ruskin. The Entrance Hall, coloured with the pillars and
facings of green marble, and adorned with delicate mouldings, is
very fine. The double dome is peculiar. The electric clock works
conjointly with that at Dunsink Observatory.
In the College Pauk are the Medical School ; the Anatomical
Museum, where Dean Swift's death-mask can be seen, and other
buildings.
3. The Castle is at the far or west end of Dame Street, behind
the City Hall. This motley group retains only one tower of the
four-towered castle built here by King Jolin over the river Poddle.
Since Sidney, the Lord Deputy of C^ueen Elizabeth, made the
Castle his official quarters, it has always remained the cityresidence
DUBLIN 9
of the Lord Lieutenant. Li the upper quadrangle, opposite the
Bedford Clock Tower, are the vice-regal quarters, St. Patrick's
Hall {open to public), used for the Investment of the Knights of St.
Patrick, and several Government offices. In the lower square is
the Record (or Wardrobe) Toivcr, which, with the exception of its
modern parapet, is a remnant of the old Norman fortress. The
present Chapel {open to visitors), adjoining this tower, was built on
the site of an older one in 1814. It is of limestone, and Gothic
in design — a comparatively rare thing in Dublin. It contains
effective woodwork in the window tracery and gallery arches ; and
is decorated with the coats-of-arms of the Lord Lieutenants from
the time of its foundation.
Below the lower quadrangle are the Metropolitan Police
Barracks and the Armoury. The Garrison band plays at the
morning ceremony of changing guard during the residence of the
Lord Lieutenant throughout the Castle "season" (usually last
week in January to St. Patrick's Day).
4. Christ Church Cathedral [services, 10.45 and 4, week-days ;
Sundays, 11.15 and 4) is a little farther west, beyond the City
Hall. The exterior here is spoilt by the tower as much as that
of St. Patrick's Cathedral is by its pinnacles. The interior,
however, is very striking owing to the contrast between the bright
colour of the 13th century nave and the dark marbles and shade
of the eastern end. The filleted mouldings and carved capitals
of the lower arches, the graceful arcades above, with their black
Kilkenny shafts, and the well-moulded and lofty arches of the east
end, all lend richness of effect to the finest of the old churches of
Dublin.
The roof is "groin "-vaulted throughout with stone — a rare
feature in this country.
The history of this, which since the Disestablishment of 1870
has been the Cathedral of Dublin as distinguished from the
national Cathedral of St. Patrick's, is of unusual iuterest. In
the crypt, extending under the greater part of the building, is
seen, if not the structure, at any rate the exact plan of the
original church built here in 1038 by Sigtryg, the Christian
king of the Irish Danes. This was rebuilt about 1170 by the
Normans, under Strongbow and Archbishop Lawrence O'Toole,
under the new name of the Priory Church of the Holy Trinity.
Soon after, as at Canterbury, arose jealousy between this and
the newer Cathedral of St. Patrick's, but long contention ended
10 DUBLIN
in the supremacy of Christ Church as the Mother Church.
About 1230 there was much rebuilding in both churches, and
the present nave is probably some of the work done then. After
various vicissitudes — in which fire, wind, and ignorant architects
worked their worst— came the catasti'ophe of 1562. In that
year, owing probably to the soft subsoil under the butti'esses,
the nave, roof, and south aisle fell, leaving the north wall bent
as it is now ; and it remained in a painful condition until
Mr. Henry Roe, at great personal cost, provided the funds for
the splendid restoration of the church by Mr. G. Street in
1S71-78.
The principal monument is that in the nave of De Clare or
" Stro7igbow," who headed the invasion of the NoiTuans from
Wales in the 12th century, and married Eva of Leinster, If the
eflBgy be that of FitzOsmund, the tomb is at any rate genuine, as
discoveries beneath have proved. The adjoining truncated figure
may perhaps be that of Strongbow's son, jiierced by his father for
cowardice "through the belly."
The Transepts and a small piece of the Choir are the original
work of Strongbow and Archbishop Lawrence (1170), and
exhibit the earliest stages of E.E. The arch mouldings at the
Sanctuary end of the Choir are original and good. The same
feature is to be noticed in the far east chapel of St. Mary the
White, where Mr. Street's work has been elaborately carried out.
In the south chapel (right) of St. Laud are some ancient tiles
from which the excellent modern copies have been made, and a
case reputed to contain the heart of Archbishop Lawrence O'Toole.
In the chapel east of the south transept dedicated to that Arch-
bishop there is a black marble figure said to be that of Eva of
Leinster, the wife of Strongbow.
The somewhat ponderous screen and the 16th century lectern
deserve notice.
The early history of the Crypt (1038-1170) has been referred
to above. In it are the old city Stocks, brought down from the
churchyard in 1821 ; statues from the Tholscl ; and the tabernacle
and candlesticks used at the Mass performed in the church by
James II. The Danish crypt of Waterford was copied from this
{see p. 132).
Lambert Simnel attempted to prevent tjie rising of the Tudors
in England by his coronation here before he had to leave his
crowu to clean the royal kettles.
DUBLIN 11
In the ruins of the old Chapter -house outside the south
transept is a plan of the monastic buildings on a slab. Outside,
and connected by a bridge at the west, is the Synod House,
also built by Mr. H. Roe.
5. The Cathedral of St. Patrick is approached by St. Nicholas
Street, just opposite the Synod House of Christ Church
{services, 10 and 4, iveek-days ; Sundays, 11.15 and 3.15).
St. Patrick erected a place of worship near the well in which he
baptized his converts. This was on the site of the present
cathedral, so that the history of the site dates farther back than
that of Christ Church. That chequered history, however, records
so many disasters and changes that it is not surprising to find
the St. Patrick's of to-day architecturally as much less interest-
ing than the latter church as it is richer in wealth of monu-
ments and historical associations.
The cathedral, together with an adjoining college, was built
here by Comyn the Norman archbishop (1190) in opposition to
Christ Church. Only fragments of the ancient palace remain,
to be found in the Marsh Library and the neighbouring Police
Barracks. A few years after, whilst a new nave was being added
to Christ Church, St. Patrick's was rebuilt ; and after a fire in
1360 a new west end was put to the nave, and the tower, under
the present 18th century spire, was built. The church was used,
it is said, by Cromwell as a law court, and by James IL as a
stable ! The whole building was completely restored between
1860 and 1865 by Sir Benjamin L. Guinness at his sole and very
great expense, — a precedent well followed by Mr. Roe at Christ
Church. The chief interest of the place centres in its connection
with Dean Swift.
The large and plain Nave is unfortunately rendered mono-
tonous by much stucco ; and this is carried also over the false
"groined " roof, the depressed arching of which is not in harmony
with the lower arches. Good features, however, are its airiness,
and the well -cut form of its many pointed arches. Very
little of the original 13th century nave remains. Perhaps the
west end of the south aisle may be some of Comyn's Norman
church.
At the base of the pillar, by the south door, brasses in the floor
mark the grave of Dean Swift (1745) and of Stella (Mrs.
Esther Johnson), beside whom he was buried at midnight, and
privately, as she also had been buried seventeen years before.
12 DUBLIN
Close by the door mentioned aud to the left of the memorial of
"Stella" is the bust of Swilt, "executed by Cunningham for
Swift's publisher Faulkner." Note how his own inscription,
written by himself, indicates his ambition that posterity should
think of him as "libertatis vindicatorem."
Jonathan Swift, the ever famous and ferocious satirist, less well known
as a Christian preacher, was Dean here for tliirty-two years. His writings,
such as the " Battle of the Boolvs," tlie "Tale of a Tub," and "Gulliver's
Travels" will ever remain popular. His character and end excite pity and
wonder as much as his mastery of English wins admiration. For the man
who preached those "two noble.st of things — sweetness and light," and who
long refused to sell his conscience to purchase a clerical career ; who helped
poor and struggling authors in " nasty garrets," held out an ever-ready hand of
sympathy to the poor Irish folk in their distress, and won the love of a city,
was the same man who trifled with loyal affection till the woman he most
loved died "killed by his unkindness "; who became the morose, pessimistic,
solitary, "and died old, wild, and sad"; mentally hemmed In, as he had
dreaded, " like a poisoned rat in a hole." (For a short hut good sketch of his
life see the late Sir Leslie Stephen's in "Dictionary of National Biography.")
Near the west door is Swift's pulpit ; not far off in the nave,
(south side) is the huge Caroline monument erected by the great
Earl of Cork to the memory of his "virtuous and religious"
Countess in 1629, and originally in the place of the east reredos.
No wonder that Archbishop Laud complained of such a block
occupying "the place of God's altar" ! Farrell's statue, on the
other hand, of Captain J. M. Boyd, is striking. The captain's
"Christ-taught bravery that died to save" is eloquently told in
verse beneath. The tiles of the floor with their figures of pigs
are as curious as the monk-fox tiles at Christ Church.
In the north aisle arc several monuments, including that to
Carolan (1737), the last of the Irish bards ; and, farther on,
those of the Marquis of Buckingham aud of Chief-Justice White-
side (by Bruce and Joy). The liole in the old chapter-hou.se door
preserved in the south transept was made for the hand-shaking
between two combatants, the Earls of Kildare and Ormonde, in
Henry VII. 's reign.
The NoKTH Tkansept, like the south one, dates mostly from
1228 ; it was once used as the church of St. Nicholas, aud for
long lay in ruins. Here is the famous Latin inscription by
Swift aliove the grave of Duke Schomberg, the hero of the Boyne
(1690).
On the north wall of the north transept is a fine inset cross to
DUBLIN 13
the memory of the soldiers who fell in South Africa ; it stands
between the older monuments to those who fell in China in the
war of 1840, and to those who fell in Burma in 1852. The
three make a striking group.
The South Transept — once the chapter-house — is domin-
ated by the bulky monument to Archbishop Smyth ; but is
adorned by Farrell's well-chiselled face and figure of Archbishop
Whately.
The Choir is much of the same date as the Transepts. The
oak stalls are surmounted by the banners of the "Knights of
St. Patrick."
George the Third established this Order in 1783. It compares with that
of James the Second's Order of the Thistle in Scotland. A curious paradox
on popular sentiment is that while the ribbon of the Order of St. Patrick is
blue, that of the Order of St. Andrew is green, a reversal of the popular
idea of the national colours. Many distinguished sons of Erin have borne the
honourable title which attaches to the descriptive abbreviation " K.P."
The Lady Chapel, a light and graceful building, is in the
place of one built in the 13th century. Like the crypt at
Canterbury, it was used in the last century by French Protestants,
but by the middle of this century was in ruins. It is spoilt by
the colour of the roof.
The pre-Reformation Brasses in the south choir aisle are rare
additions in Ireland.
A good bronze statue of Sir B. L. Guinness, the restorer of
the Cathedral, whose family give liberal assistance to its present
maintenance, is outside.
6. National Museum and Library. — This group of buildings
in Kildare Street is very handsome, perhaps the finest of its kind
in the city. On the far side of the quadrangle is Leinster House,
once the town house of the Earl of Kildare, now used by the
Royal Duhlin Society.
On the left is the National Library, and on the right the
Museum, two striking modern classic buildings (liy Deane, 1885),
which put the old house entirely in the shade. The fine group of
statuary in the centre of the court was erected to Queen Victoria
by her Irish subjects in 1907.
The National Library [open free, 10 to 10, except Sundays) is
the largest and most useful library for general readers in Dublin.
14 DUBLIN
The Reading Room is spacious, and the arrangements good.
The characteristics of the library arise from its being a State
Library, and thus fullilling for Leland, on a small scale, the
functions of the library of the British Museum. It possesses
about 130,000 volumes. The service of books is rapid, and the
systems of classification and storage are modern and compact.^
The Museum is open free, 11 to 5 ; on Tuesday and Thursday
open till 10 (some sections only) ; Sunday, 2 to 5 (some sections
only). — Admirable halfpenny catalogue or more detailed, in
penny sections. After passing the Entrance Hall we enter
ART SECTION
Central Court.— In the middle of this spacious and well-lighted building,
which is devoted to Irish ecclesiastical architecture, are models of the
gigantic ancient crosses of Ireland, England, and Scotland, also statues.
The surrounding cases contain costumes, gems, and coins. Tliere is also some
fine Gothic ornament from Italy and France. At the far right-hand corner
begins tlie series of —
Ground-Floor Booms (Arts and Industries).— Room I. contains Greek
and Roman casts. II. Kgyptiau Antiquities. III. The Aits of Prehistoric
Peoples and Savages. IV. and.V. Oriental. VI. Italian Architecture. VII.
Musical Instruments. See especially Irish bagpipes, Moore's sweet-toned
piano, the harps, and the 1590 spinet. VIII. and IX. Furniture. A " Gold-
smith " chair, wood-carving, the Paradiso of Isabella d'Este, and the Bokeby
Ilooni from Essex. X. Italian Furniture.
First Floor (Gallery of Central Court). — Miniatures, Lace, Iron, Pewter,
Brass, and Bronze of many countries of Europe ; also enamels, Romanesque,
Byzantine, and Scandinavian Art. (In the Gallery of Rotunda) Gold and
silver work. Room V. Ai'ms and Armour. VI. Car\ed Ivories. VII.
Japanese Art. In the two passage rooms are Photographs, Water-colours,
and Sketches. VIII. Pottery, Porcelain, and Glass. IX. China, Burma, and
India. X. Embroideries.
Upper Gallery of Central Court (Irish Antiquities).— Section I. (at end
above "liarye's Lion"). Lake Dwellings or "Crannogs." See primitive
forms of boats. II. Stone A^^e (before 1500 B.C.). The " celts " from Donegal
and Ijattle-axes from Athlone deserve careful notice. III. Bronze Age (1600
to 400 B.C.). Axes, cauldrons ; line spear-heads and swords. Iron Age (400
B.C. to200A.D.). Note the spiked cauldron. IV. Early Christian Art (200 a.d.
and onwarils). Uere are "the two finest examples of the goldsmith's work
1 Other large libraries open to the jiublic are: Trinity College (College
Green), by introduction, 10 to 4 ; Itoyal Dublin Society (Leinster House),
open to the public "under certain conditions"; King's Jnni! (Broa<lstone
Station), " by express permission of liljrarian," 10 to G ; Marsh (St. Patrick's
Cathedral), 11 to 3, closed in August and September. The libraries of Dublin,
University, of the lUiyul College of Physicians, and of the Hoyal College of
Surgeons, are accessible under certain conditions.
DUBLIN 15
of Cbristian Ireland " (M. Stokes) — the Turn Brooch, perhaps of the 0th
century, a wonderful specimen of "exquisite delicacy,"! and the Ardagh
Chalice of the same date, a "unique example of two-handed chalices used in
earliest Christian times." Tlie inscription on the Cross of Cong (1123) states
that "in this cross is preserved the cross on which the founder of the world
suffered." The Shrine (cumdach) of St. Molaise's Gospels (1001-25) is the
oldest one of the kind. Among many bells the principal are St. Patrick's Iron
Bell (400), " the oldest Irish relic of Christian metal work " (M. Stokes) ; Bell
of St. Patrick's IVill (or Armagh), of date earlier than 552 ; the Gartan Bell
of St. Columba (about 10th century). One of tlie finest of Irish crosiers is
the Clonmacnois Crosier, ttth century. Notice also the crosier of Dysart (5th
century); of St. Columba, of Durrow (6th century) ; and that from St.
Cormac's 12th century tomb at Cashel.
The collection of ancient Celtic Gold Ornaments is the finest existing.
It includes Torques from Tara, Gorgets (collars) from the bog districts, and
the mysterious Lunulae (perhaps the " Minn ") from Athlone, Roscommon,
etc. See also the model of the Wicklow nugget (1795 ; 22 oz. ; value £80),
the silver caterpillars used as murrain charms, and the silver mace from
Carlow.
BOTANY
These collections are for general consultation, and are intended to be of
use in the development of Irish Indvstries. Tlie Heriarium is chiefly for
students of Irish field botany.
(Observe the slice of the little 1335-year-old " Wellingtonia.")
NATURAL HISTORY
This department (entered also from Merrion Square) comprises, on the
Ground Floor — A. General Specimens ; B. Irish Invertebrates (collectors
note the mounting of insects) ; C. Irish Vertebrates, including casts of a
60-pound Lough Neagh salmon and other monsters ; and on Upper Floor —
General Invertebrates and Vertebrates, among others the Bantry whale
skeleton (65 feet). Annexe. — Fossil animals.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY
The collection includes that of the geological survey of Ireland, and a
very fine set of sea reptiles on the walls. Most attractive are the three
skeletons of the extinct Great Irish Deer, one 7 feet high, with antlers 11 feet
across ; and the remarkable specimens of antlers mutually indented by
action of the bog.
In the centre of the Mineralogical Collections is a geological model of
Ireland, of much interest.
The Merrion Square entrance affords easy communication with —
7. The National Gallery of Ireland (Merrion Square, West).
Open free on Hon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 to 6, or dusk ; on
1 Discovered, 1850, near the seashore by a child. The name is only a
fancy title.
18 DUBLIN
Sunday, 2 to 5. Thurs. and Fii., students' days, admission 6d.
Biographical and descriptive catalogue, price 6d. The Gallery
contains a collection of pictures and drawings by masters of the
Italian, Flemish, Dutch, British, and other schools ; these are
arranged in the upper galleries. The ground floor contains the
National Portrait Gallery, a collection of portraits of celebrated
Irishmen, and of those connected with Irish history. A range of
new galleries has lately been added, and in these has been hung
the line collection of Flemish and Dutch pictures and a portion of
the national portrait collection.
The above Art Gallery is separated from the Museum (p. 14)
by Leinster Lawn, a pleasant "lung" adorned with statues of
the Prince Consort, William Dargan, the originator of modern
Art Exhibitions in Dublin, and others.
8. St. Stephen's Green [at the south end of Grafton, Dawson,
and Kildare Streets ; from National Gallery turn right). This
popular "lounge" can hardly be recognised nowadays as the
square where Thackeray found "not more than two nursery-
maids to keep comjiany with the statue of George II.," and little
else of note beyond "a couple of moaning beggars leaning against
the rails and calling upon the Lord."
To-day this favourite square is indeed a garden of delight,
cooled by pleasant waters and fountains, and threaded by shady
meandering paths.
The specimen of sculptor's art above referred to stands in the
centre — an abomination in decayed metal, and a blot upon the
scene. The «tatue of Lord Ardilaun, however, near the outer
rails, and opposite the face of His weather-beaten Majesty, is
one of the best in Ireland, Mr. Farrell was favo\ired with a good
subject.
The Green was entirely re-arranged in 1880 by the liberal
munificence of Lord Ardilaun (Sir A. E. Guinness). A fine stone
arch at the N.W. corner makes an imposing entrance.
Entering the Green at the end of Grafton Street (north-west
corner), you have on your left (north side) the " clubland " of
Dublin, including the Society of Antiquaries, No. 6 ; Hilicrnian
United Service, with bow - windows, No. 8 ; Stejjhen's Green,
No. 9 ; University, No. 17 ; Brothers of St. Patrick, No. 22.
DUBLIN 17
No. 16 is tlio Archbishop's Palace ; and at the far end is Ire-
land's greatest hotel, the Shelbourne. On the east side of the
green is the existing Royal College of Science ; and St.
Vincent's Hospital, on the site of Henry Grattan's town
house.
A doorway in the middle of the south side, surmounted by a
lion, marks the fa9ade of the Roman Catlwlic University College,
once the house of Buck Whaley. The brick Byzantine doorway
on the right is that of the Roman Catholic University CJmrch,
erected in 1856 by Cardinal Newman. It is well worth a visit.
Note the carved marble capitals, the students' "golden" gallery,
and the gleaming marble bust of the Cardinal. Beyond are the
Wesleyan College buildings, hidden from view.
The west side is adorned by the classic fajade of the Royal
College of Surgeons. This institution "claims descent from the
Guild of Barbers, 1446." Within the huildiug [closed August a7id
September) are the Medical Library and a Museum.
Among past residents in the Green have been Mrs. Hemans,
Whately, and Chancellor Plunkett.
9. Phcenix Park [free. Frequent trams to Main Entrance,
near Kingsbridge Station; but car is strongly recommended.
Band, ^ to Q Sundays, near Zoo) lies west of Dublin, standing
about 4 miles along the north bank of the Lilfey. It is about
1^ miles broad at the widest.
The impression of the park's vast extent is increased by the
straightness of the centre road, and the unbroken flatness of
surface. To the left (south) across the river, the AVicklow Hills
show their graceful outline. (There is an excellent map of the
district, right of entrance, inside.)
The lands here, which Charles II. formed into his deer park, originally
belonged to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem at KUmainham. The first
Lodge was built by Nathaniel Clemens, the father of Lord Leitrim, in 1751,
and this was purchased tliirty years later by Government for the Viceregal
residence.
Visitors who are hurried should go as far as the Phcenix
Column {see below), and then see the " Zoo."
A few minutes' walk up the central road, and beyond the
People's Park, on the right, is the bronze equestrian statue of
Viscount Grough, "the conqueror of the Punjaub." This, by
Foley and Brock, is the best of all the statues of Dublin. The
2
18 DUBLIN
handsome officer bears himself with dignity ui)on a charger of
no mean spirit. The Wellington Mmiument to the left — "the
big milestone " — is of Egyptian massiveness, but is as sadly
lacking in any lines of beauty as the St. Rollox chimney-stalk
at Glasgow. Continuing along the central road, and passing the
Kefreshment Kiosk (right), you see on the right, oppo.site the
cricket grounds, the turning to the Zoological Gardens {see below).
Beyond it the drive sejiarates the " 9 Acres " Polo Ground (right)
from the old duel ground of the "15 Acres" (left), and soon the
front of the white Viceregal Lodge can be seen through the
trees (right). At a spot on the left-hand footpath, exactly opposite
the centre of the Lodge front, Lord Frederick Cavendish and Mr.
Burke were murdered in 1882 by the " Invincibles." Farther
along, the six-roads-crossing is marked by the I'jicenix Column,
erected by Lord Chesterfield in 1745, and popularly known to
Paddy as "the Goose on the Stone." ^ On the left, past this,
is the Chief Secretary's Lodge ; two other official lodges lie some
distance away on the right. Some way out along the central
drive, at the far west end, are the Mountjoy Barracks, now the
Ordnance Survey Office, where also the Meteorological Observa-
tions are taken.
If time allows, the longer round by car is recommended, viz.
by the left-hand road from the Gough statue, past the Magazine
Fort on Phcenix Hill (riglit), to the Chapelizod Gate near the
Hihernian {Military) School (right). From the Knockmaroon
Gates the road to Lucan and the Strawberry Gardens turns off
(left), and leaving this, the Park road bears right, passes the
Mountjoy Barracks (left, see above), and strikes the central drive
a short distance from the west bounaary.
The Zoological Gardens (9 to dusk, Is. ; Sat., M. ; Sim., 12
to dusk, 2d., children half price; general feeding at 2.30 or 3 ; Sea-
lion at 4) are about f mile from the main entrance of Phcenix
Park {see above, page 17), or about ^ mile from the tramway in the
north circular route. Tliey are near the People's Park, the Con-
stabulary Barracks, and the Marlborougli Barracks ; and though
small are well arranged, and well wortli a visit. Tlie finest house
is that of the Lions, which contains seven or eight cages, and
1 Tlio Park "takes its name from a beautiful spiiiig well near the Vice-
regal IjOilge, ojitlod FiiiiinuiMj, clear ur liuiiii'l water " (./oj/oc). The bird o/
Lord Chesterlleld'a columu, therefore, is merely a wiiiged fancy.
DUBLIN 19
tliese mostly occupied, Dublin has been successful in lion-
breeding to an extent unknown elsewhere. Ostriches wander
freely about the gardens. There is a large refreshment-room in
the gardens.
A cromlech, found at Knockmaroon (page 18), has been re-
erected here.
WALKS THROUGH DUBLIN
FIRST WALK
Sackville Street. Bank. Trinity College. Kildare Street. Museum
Buildings. Merrion Square. Stephen's Green.
The conspicuous Monument to O'Connall, at the north end of
O'Connell Bridge, is our starting-point. This large and hand-
some statue, by Foley, was erected in 1882. Below, round the
pedestal, is a group of figures representing Ireland looking to
O'Connell as their liberator ; farther down there are bronze
figures of Patriotism, Justice, Eloquence, and Courage.
Beyond this is the statue of Sir John Gray, by Farrell, of
Sarabezza marble, and erected in 1879. The Nelson Pillar (3d. ;
admission to top), at the crossing of Earl and Henry Streets, does
little more honour to the great admiral than the "big mile-
stone" in PhcEuix Park to the hero of Waterloo. Nelson, by
Kirk, is represented leaning against a capstan. The figure is
13 feet high, and the entire height (134) is 28 feet less than that
of the corresponding monument in Trafalgar Square, Loudon.
A Dublin gentleman known to the writer once climbed up, when a boy, to
the shoulder by " swarming " the sword. The less adventurous tourist will
be well repaid by the view from the upper railing.
This Pillar is the chief starting- pi ace of the tram-cars, and
the Tramway Office is close by, near the corner of Earl Street
(page 1),
About half-way up Sackville Street (left) is the General
Post-Office (1815), of which the imposing Ionic portico is seen
projecting over the west-side pavement. Pat's ancient witticism
upon the three figures above the pediment — Hibernia, Mercury,
and Fidelity — is even now often served up as a new dish by the
"jarvies."
In the upper part of the street is the statue of the " apostle
20 DUBLIN
of temperance," Father Mathew, bj' Mary Redmond (see
Cork).
If time allows, turn up Earl Street (opposite the Nelson
Pillar) into Marlborough Street. A few yards up (left) is the
Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedkal, a massive classic temple.
The interior has been much improved by bright colour. Farrcll's
statue of Cardinal Cullen in the north aisle is good.
Immediately opposite are Offices and Model School of the
Education Board. Observe the statue of Sir A. M'Donnell, by
Farrcll.
Returning down Sackville Street we cross, at the bottom,
O'Connell Bridge. This was formerly called Carlisle Bridge in
honour of the Viceroy at the time when it was commenced (1791) ;
it still, indeed, bears as many names as it does roadways.
Owing to the double thoroughfare, its width, in proportion to
its length, is unusual.
From the centre of this bridge are obtained some of the most
interesting views within the city. Turning round, we look up
Sackville Street, with the Nelson Column rising boldly in the
middle of it ; the fa9ade of the Post Office on the left, and the
corner of the Rotunda in view at the northern end. In the
opposite direction (south) the eye runs up Westmoreland and
D'Olier Streets, at the intersection of which will be seen Farrell's
statue of Smith O'Brien. Looking up Westmoreland Street
we see the Bank (right) and Trinity College (left). Then turn-
ing towards the upper stream, on the right, are the Four Courts
and the Quays.
Down the river are the shipping, and the obstructive Railway
Bridge, which has now spoilt one of the finest views in the city,
and hides the splendid front of the Custom-House ; the copper
dome of the latter, one of the most picturesque things in Dublin,
still rises pathetically behind the iron intruder.
Continuing our walk southwards we pass through Westmore-
land Street at the south end of which, in College Street, the
ludicrous thing of bedaubed ;^inc upon a pedestal, seen on the
left, will provoke smiles from the most sedate of sightseers.
Does it represent Dublin's appreciation of her greatest poet,
TilOMAS MOORK?
Then passing the Bank of Ireland on the right (page 5),
and the fa9ade of Trinity College on the left (page 6), continue
straight forward, having College Green on the right hand.
DUBLIN 21.
Following the College jjalings (left), turn away from Grafton
Street, for the present, into Nassau Street (left). Turn up
DoMson Street on the right, and just short of St. Anne's Church,
where there is a window to the memory of Mrs. Hemans, who
died at No. 21 in this street, cross along Molesworth Street into
one of Dublin's chief streets, Kildare Street.
Farther along Dawson Street is the house of the Royal Irish Academy,
founded in 1786 in the interests of literature, science, and antiquities. The
"Annals of the Four Masters " is amongst its treasures.
In Kildare Street note the large Venetian facade of the Kil-
dare Street Club (founded in 1788), and further on the Museum
Buildings and National Library, with the imposing group of
statuary in the courtyard in front. They are fully described on
page 13. After inspecting these, one of the chief attractions in
the city, pass through the corner door (or the far Merrion Square
entrance) into Leinster Lawn, and so across to the National
Gallery, described page 15.
Leaving this gallery bear right along Merrion Street, noticing
" Mornington House."
This is about 100 yards beyond the Memon Square entrance of the
Museum. Behind its lofty and dull face of red brick is the room in which
tlie Duke of Wellington was born. It is now used by the Irish Land Com-
mission, as the brass plate shows.
Southward of the museum is the rapidly rising building of the
new Royal College of Science, founded 1904. This will be a
magnificent building with three wings enclosing a courtyard, the
principal one surmounted by a dome.
South of St. Stephen's Green in Earlsfort Terrace, a con-
tinuation of the east side, is the Royal University founded in
1879. It is an examining body granting degi-ees in Arts,
Medicine, Law, Engineering, and Music. Opposite is Alexandra
College for Women. In Harcourt Street, westward, No. 17 con-
tains the Municipal Art Gallery ; open free, week days 10-6 ;
Sundays 3-6. It is not a large collection, but is worth seeing.
22 DUBLIN
SECOND WALK
College Green. City Hall. Castle. Christ Church and St. Patrick's
Cathedrals. Kevin Street.
Proceeding to the Bank of Ireland, as on page 20, bear to
the right in front of it into College Green. ^ Noting the
view from Goldsmith's statue, at Trinity College entrance,
and the fine classic features of the Bank, and the striking
attitude of Foley's statue of Grattan, observe William III.
beyond. His majesty is of lead, got up as a Roman general,
mth gold facings, and is said to be leading in triumph to the
Castle "a somewhat overgrown tail attached to an impossible
cart-horse,"
On the left side (south) are some good modern bank build-
ings. In the competition among them for the finest entrance,
the Ulster Bank (by Drew), with its exceedingly fine iron gates,
obtains easily the first place.
After continuing into Dame Street, past the end of Trinity
Street (left), where the Gothic front of the "Sun " ofiice deserves
notice, and George Street (left), the fajade of the Munster and
Leinster Bank (by Deane) is seen opposite the pretty little
Empire Theatre. These are just short of
The City Hall, which faces into Parliament Street. This
building, in front of the Castle, was erected originally (1769) as
the Royal Exchange, "the expenses being raised by lotteries"
{Diet, of Dublin) ; and was adapted to municipal purposes in
1862.
The Entrance Hall, circular in form, and surmounted by a
dome, is well built, and well and brightly decorated.
The statue of Henry Grattan (1829), by Chantrey, is exceed-
ingly good. The face of the old man in a moment of excited
oratory exhibits keen, if not fierce, feeling. But among all
Dublin monuments the most dramatic figure is that of Dr.
Citarles Lucas (1771), by E. Smith. It commemorates that
patriotic citizen, who ' ' secured from Parliament the purchase
1 There is an interesting view of College Green as it appeared in 1779 in
the Natiuoal Gallery (page 15).
DUBLIN 23
money for the site " of the building. Note the broad muscular
form of Daniel O'Connell (by Hogan), who in this Hall made
his maiden speech ; and the same sculptor's statue of Thoinaa
Drummovd. The quotation beneath the latter — "Property
has its duties as well as its rights " — has been recently
added. George III., dressed as for a fancy dress ball, is a bronze
addition.
In the Mimiment Rooin are a number of manuscripts of con-
siderable archffiological interest, including the City Charters,
City Annals, and the parchment Assembly Rolls of the Corpora-
tion.
On the floor of the entrance hall are brass plates giving the
Corporation Standard Measurements of inches, feet, and yards.
The Castle, which is immediately behind, is described on
page 8 ; and a furlong farther along (west) is Christ Church
Cathedral (page 9).
The Augustinian Church, which is within 500 yards, and can
be conveniently reached from this point by continuing direct, is
one of the finest churches in Ireland. It is well worth a visit. A
description will be found on page 28.
Just opposite the Synod House bridge of Christ Church is the
shortest way to St. Patrick's Cathedral, viz. by St. Nicholas and
St. Patrick Street. A few yards along the latter (left) is the
site of the old Tholsel (of Inigo Jones), once adorned by the
statues of Charles II. and James II., which are now entombed
in Christ Church crypt. The public gardens presented by Lord
Iveagh to the city now occupy the area formerly covered by some
of the most miserable tenement houses in Dublin. They adjoin
the precincts of the much - battlemented Cathedral of St.
Patrick (page 11).
Passing up, cross Kevin Street, we may turn a little way to the
left into Aungier Street, where, at No. 12, Moore, the poet, was
born on the 28th of May 1780. His first published production
was a sonnet, written in his fourteenth year. Returning to
Kevin Street we continue our walk up CufFe Street until we
enter Stephen's Green at its south-west corner (page 16).
For Grafton Street turn left, and continue, passing the statue
of Lord Ardilaun (right). In the vicinity of Grafton Street
is Pitt Street, where, in No. 10, the great composer Balfe was
born on May 15, 1808.
24 DUBLIN
THIRD WALK
The Western Quays. Four Courts. Kingsbridge, Phoenix Park, and
Zoological Gardens.
From the face of tlie O'Connell statue turn right with the
tram-line along the north bank of the Liffey (" Bachelors'
Walk "). The view back towards the Custoin-House is no more
enhanced by the tram-wire posts than is the scenery of the
Upper Lifl'ey by the Jletal Bridge.
Some day, it is to be hoped, the aldermanic eye, with more highly de-
veloped sense of the unfit, may condemn the present use of this bridge for
the advertisement of the latest specialities in " foods " for dogs and men.
Over on the south the somewhat monotonous line of build-
ings is slightly varied by the numerous towers and spires be-
hind them. The next bridge passed is Grattan Bridge, which
crosses to the Castle. Then in half a mile the tram passes the
Four Courts, an imposing classic group, surmounted by a
circular "lantern" with a green dome. The central entrance
is under a good Corinthian portico, above which the highest
statue is that of Moses.
After St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Castle, and Clirist Church had succes-
sively been used with varying discomforts as Courts of Law, this stately
building, partly by Corley and partly by Gandon, was erected here in 1796.
Ou the same site there once had stood a 13th-century convent. Witliin are
the Four Courts of Exchequer, Common Pleas, Chancery, and Queen's Bench.
In the circular entrance hall— much inferior to those at the
City Hall and the New Museum — are several statues, notably
that of Shell, by FaiTell ; the panels above represent leading
legal events in national history.
Continuing past Whitworth,^ Queen's, and Victoria Bridges,
you see Guinuess's (brewery) stores across the Lifi'ey, and, on
the right, the Royal Barracks of the usually severe style. It
is the quarters of the Army Service Corps. Then come King's
Bkidge and the terminus station of the Great Southern and
IVestern Railway. The latter is a stately, if somewhat stiff
building, and the addition of the uncommon side tower is a
1 On the foundations of the oldest Liffey Bridge. The river was spanned
here at least as early as the 14th century.
DUBLIN 26
pleasiiig feature. Just beyond is the famous Stecvens (general)
Hospital, founded by Dr. Steevens and his liberal- minded sister,
and partly endowed by "Stella" (Mrs. E. Johnson). Close by
is St. Patrick's Hospital, or Swift's Asylum, founded by Dean
Swift, and opened in 1757 ; his pathetic bequest is celebrated in
the lines —
He left the little all he had
To found a house for fools and mad.
The trams stop at the main gate of Phcenix Park ; for descrip-
tion of which and of the "Zoo," see pages 17, 18.
FOURTH WALK
Sackville Street. Rutland Square. Glasnevin Cemetery, and the
Botanic Gardens.
The Glasnevin tram runs from the Nelson Pillar up Sackville
Street to the Rotunda.
This is used for public entertainments ; the Dancing Room is considered
one of the finest in Dublin. The frieze decoration round the Circular Room
deserves notice.
The foundation of the rotunda {Lying-in) Hospital was the result of the
philanthropic efforts of Dr. Bartholomew Mosse, who started a small hospital
in George Street in 1745, spent all his means in re-establishing the hospital in
Rutland Square, and died in poverty in 1759.
It is proposed to place the newest statue, that of Parnell, at
the top of Sackville Street. The total height of column and
figure is 65 feet.
Thence through Rutland Square, and past the spire of the
Presbyterian Church, by Blessington Road to the North Circular
Road, and so out to
The village of Glasnevin, once a favourite resort of Addison,
Swift, and Sheridan, which is situated about 2 miles from Dublin,
and offers popular attractions in the Cemetery and the Botanic
Gardens. The Prospect Cemetery, formed by the Roman
Catholic Association, and consecrated in 1832, is on level ground,
and tastefully laid out. The first public cemetery is said to
have been originally founded by Daniel O'Connell, whose monu-
ment— a lofty "round tower " of granite — is here the chief object
of interest.
The Liberator's remains, after lying for years in the " O'Connell Circle,"
were removed hither (1869) below the tower. To the east is the cross to
the MawlusUr Martyrs of 1867. " Eonest Tom, Steele" is the curt in-
26 DUBLIN
scription over tho grave of O'Connell's staunch supporter. The lucuiorial of
Curran, the orator and wit, is a handsome classic sarcopliagus. Other im-
portant graves and memorials are those of Parnell, Sir J. G-ray, Hogan the
sculptor, and Cardinal McCabe.
The Botanic Gardens {open free ; 10 to 7 summer, and 10 to
dusk winter ; Conservatories, 11 to one hour before closing time ;
Sunday, 1 to dusk). Here once lived the poet Tickell, from whose
descendants the grounds were purchased a century ago.
There are splendid greenhouses and conservatrries. An admirable Jd.
guide with plan of the gardens and some interesting botanical details can
be bought at the gate. Tho collections of aquatics, orchids, and palms are
very complete. The Victoria water-lily is very successfully cultivated in the
aquatic house. The grounds are divided into herbaceous ground, arboretum,
and pleasure grounds, all of which are well stocked with representative
plants. At the lower end of the garden the river Tolka flows, and there is a
lake in which hardy aquatic plants are grown. A tramway from Dublin
passes the gate.
In this neighbourhood (4 m. from Dublin) is Diinsmk, where is
the Observatory of the University ; and on the ea.st side a road of
I mile leads along the right bank of the Tolka to Drumcondra (or
Glonturk), a place of popular amusement. Here a tram starts
for the city, which passes, on the left, off Dorset Street, St.
George's Church, which reminds us much of AVren's work among
the London city churches. Notice the height of the steeple,
and, inside, the tablet to Charles Giesecke. In Upper Gardiner
Street, just behind, is the Jesuits' Church of St. Francis Xavier
(by T. B. Keane). It is one of the largest and most decorated,
and contains large pictures representing the life of St. Francis
and other saints.
FIFTH WALK
DoMiNiCK Street. Kino's Inns. Some Churches, and Old Dublin.
From the upper end of Sackville Street bear left by Britain
Street into Dominick Street (right). At No. 36 the astronomer
Sir W. R. Hamilton was born, and No. 13 has been used by the
Duke of Leinster as a residence.
By continuing towards Broadstone Station (M.G.W.R. ), or to
left by Bolton Street
DUBLIN 27
[In Dorset Street, a littlo above on the right, is the high, narrow, brick
house bearing a tablet with an inscription to the effect that " In this house
■was bom . . . Richard Brinsley Sheridan." Close by is St. Saviour's Priory.]
and Henrietta Street, you can quickly reach the Kings Inn. It
is best seen from the station. The copper-topped dome is, like
that of the Four Courts, much depressed.
Then follow Constitution Hill southwards across King Street
(north) to Church Street. On the right is the good Gothic west
front of the Roman Catholic Church of St. Mary ("of the
Angels "). The best feature of the lofty and bright interior is
the fine pointed eastern arch. The slender supports of the roof
arches are uncommon, and the marble pulpit is well carved.
A little left from the crossing of Mary Lane is the Fruit Market — a thing
of some sweetness in an otherwise highly-scented slum.
Farther down Church Street is St. Michan's Church (the
tower is the only part of the original building remaining). Though
founded in 1095, most of the present building dates only from
1676. It is ugly, dirty, and neglected, and reflects little credit on
any one. But this — till 1697 the only Protestant church north
of the river — has points of interest. The legend that makes the
old effigy (in the chancel) that of Bishop Michau is more probable
than the stories that tell of Handel first playing his Messiah upon
the quaint organ that is here, and of the burial of Emmett in the
graveyard. The vaults have the remarkable power of preserving
the bodies without decomposition, and in them are deposited the
remains of the brothers Sheares. Oliver Bond, Dr. Lucas, and
the Rev. W. Jackson of tragic death, are buried in the graveyard
at the back of the church.
This street ends at the Quays, near the Four Courts.
If the rest of the excursion be omitted, the return to O'Connell Bridge (left)
can now be made. Before doing so, however, the Augustinian Church in
Thomas Street should certainly be seen (page 28).
Continue across Wliitworth Bridge (p. 24) — once the Friars'
Bridge — and up Bridge Street into the Com Market. Here was
the focus of the exciting events in the later history of Dublin.
In Bridge Street some of the committee of " United Irishmen"
which had met there were executed ; at No. 22 Corn Market Lord
Edward Fitzgerald found brief refuge before his capture. Turn-
ing to the right along the historic Thomas Street you notice No.
28 DUBLIN
152, where Lord Edward Fitzgerald was captured and wounded by
Major Sirr in 1798. Not far oil' Lord Kilwardeu was killed a few
years after in a riot. In front of St. Catherine s Church (left),
Robert Emmett, "the Irish darling," as Thackeray called him,
was executed in 1803.
On the right side of the street St. Augustine's Church will
quickly attract notice by it.s handsome " west," as well as by its
remarkable spire, which, though so narrow, is one of the orna-
ments of the city.
Within is the finest modern interior in Dublin. The Gothic
Nave rises to a great height above bays of massive but noble pro-
portions, and is roofed by a beautifully-arclied wooden ceiling.
The lofty windows of the East Apse have good tracery. On the
rigiit side of this notice the chapel of "The Mother of Good
Counsel " enclosed within a very rich screen, and beautified with
equally rich stained glass and elaborate decoration. The prin-
cijjal window represents the miraculous translation of the picture
of " The Mother of Good Counsel " from Albania to Italy. This
building, which perhaps has no rivals among tlie modern
churches of Ireland, except at Queenstown and Cork, is the work
of Messrs. Pugiu and Ashlin, and was completed in 1897.
Farther along (left) is St. James's Roman Catholic Church,
with one of the best reredoses in the district ; and near is
Guinncss's Brewery, on the same side.
The road, " Mouut Brown," to the left of the sundial just beyond, reaches
in 3 mile the famous Eilmaikham Gaol, where the "No Rent Manifesto " first
saw the light, and whicli gave a name to Mr. Parnell's " Treaty." "There
must be fine views from the windows," reflected Thackeray 1 A little short
of it (right) is the KilmainJiam Hospital for old soldiers.
It " is called Kilmannan by Boate, which is more correct than its present
form. The name signifies the Church of St. Mainen, wlio was bislioji and
abbot there in tlie "th century" (Joyce). In this earlier abbey were estab-
lished the Knights Teuijilars by Strongbow four centuries later.
After returning along Ihomas Street to the Corn Market,
notice the old tower (left) of St. Audoen's Church, which is said
to contain a 15th-ceutury bell. The present building included
the north-west corner of the old 12th-century church, and the
Portlester Chapel, as well as the old Norman font, are worth
seeing. Close by (north) is the only remnant of the old city
gatfs— .S7. Avdoen s Arch. From the old tower-room, once
above this, the first Freeman's Journal was issued.
DUBLIN 29
In Back Lane, just opposite, stands an old historic building called
"Tailors' Hall." Before passing over to the sartorial Corporation it had
been a religions house until Charles I. suppressed it.
Christ Church Cathedral (fully described on pages 9-11) is
a few yards farther on. Here, between the south aisle and the
street, were once the quarters occupied by the Law Courts before
the erection of the Four Courts (page 24) ; and beneath was
the dark passage "named Hell, from a figure of black oak . . .
probably an old figure of the Virgin " (Diet, of Dublin). Behind
the Co.tii'edral, in School House Lane, once stood the Free School
where Archbishop Ussher and John Churchill of Marlborough
were educated, and not far off^ is the site of Sheridan's Theatre.
For St. Patrick's Cathedral, see page 11.
Werhurgh Street is the next turning right beyond the
Cathedral ; and here (left) is St. Werhurgh's Church. From its
gruesome front, garnished with skull and cross-bones, it might
well be mistaken for a slaughter-house, or at least a mortuary
chapel ! Here were buried Lord Edward Fitzgerald, Ware the
antiquary, and perhaps Major Sirr.
It was from a house off St. Bride Street, a continuation of St. Werburgh
Street, that Napper Tandy escaped through the window when arrested in
1792.
In No. 7 Roey's Court, on the left, Dean Swift's strange life
had its beginning (1667 ; seepage 12) ; then a left-hand turning
leads to the right of the Castle along Great Ship Street. Here on
a modern house (right) note the tablet bearing an inscription to
the effect that —
"Here anciently stood the church and the round tower — adjacent lay the
Mill Pond or " Pool," which gave name to those buildings (St. Michael le Pole
Church) and the old city gate. . . . Here . . . was the famed Latin School
of the last century, in which Henry Grattan and John Fitzgibbon, Earl of
Clare, were educated together."
At the far end bear left into Soicth Great George Street,
In Aungier Street (see page 23) is the house in which the poet
Moore was born. On the right side of the former Street is the
excellent facade of the quadrangular South Market, an important
modern addition to Irish architecture of the kind. Follow round
the far side of this into Exchequer Street (right). A street on the
1 In FishamWe Street, opposite Werhurgh Street, fonnerly stood the
Music Hall in which Handel's Messiah was first produced.
80 DUBLIN
left turns to St. Andrevfs Church,^ probably tlic site of "the
wicker-work pavilion outside the city," in which Henry II. "re-
ceived the homage of Irish kings and chieftains " (Murray). Turn
along William Street in the opposite direction, and notice (left) the
House of the Powerscourts, which after the Union became a Stamp
OlSce, and is now a drapery warehouse ; continue to the far end,
and bear left into Ki7ig Street, passing the Gaiety Theatre ; and so
arrive at the end of Grafton Street in St. Stephen's Green (page 16).
DUBLIN DISTRICT
Dublin has not so striking a situation as the sister capital in
Scotland, but she is even more fortunate in the varied and
attractive scenery which lies within easy reach. It is usual with
visitors who come from across the channel to think that the
most characteristic and desirable Irish scenery can only be
seen by going far west ; this is quite a mistake. Every variety
of typical Irish scenery is to be found along the eastern shores of
Ireland ; and for those who are limited iu time or money, a most
delightful holiday may be arranged along the line of the Dublin
and South-Eastern Railway, which is one of the most up-to-date
and progressive railways in Ireland. There are two termini of
this company in Dublin, at Westland Row and Harcourt Street
respectively, and the converging lines join at Bray. The visitor
is advised to obtain the toui i.st handbook, Through the Garden of
Ireland, price 3d., issued by the company, where many more
details as to fares and minor routes will be found than it is
possible to notice in an ordinary guide-book. The intense interest
and wildness of the valley of Gleudalough (see p. 58) are well
known to Irish people and the place annually attracts its thousands,
but it is not nearly well enough known to the visitor from
across the sea, and for those who have cycles some of the wild
vallej's lying between Dublin and Gleudalough show a grandeur
unsurpassed elsewhere. Wooden Bridge and the Vale of Avoca
are well worth seeing. Further afield there is the delightful
cycling district around Inistioge, reached by train to New Ross.
Northward of Dublin the antiquarian ruins around Drogheda
and Kells are of exceptional interest.
1 St. Amlrew's Cliurch was the parish church of the Irisli Parliament wlien
it sat in College Green. With true Irish character it was then known as the
Round Church, " on account of its oval shape." This church was burnt down
in ISOO, and the present handsome building was .shortly afterwards erected.
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HowTH, p. 33.
Malahide, p. 37.
EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
Deogheda, p. 39.
The Boyne, p. 40.
I. DUBLIN TO HOWTH
Kells, p. 47.
Kingstown, p. 48.
Electric trams from Nelson pillar. Frequent trains from Amiens Street.
Distance 0 miles. Return fare, 1st, Is. 8d. ; 2nd, Is. 4d. ; 3rd, Is. The
G.N. Rly. runs electric trams from Sutton to top of Howtli Hill.
Passengers from Amiens St. can change at Sutton from train to tram and
return from Howth Station by rail. Ti-ams to Clontarf and DcUymount.
Perhaps nc better way of spending a day can be proposed
than in an excursion to the peninsular Hill of Howth. The
ancient name of the hill is Ben Edar, which literally means the
"Mountain of the Birds." It is the first object that attracts
attention in approaching Dublin from the sea. Taking the Great
Northern Railway from Amiens Street, we cross the Royal Canal,
half a mile from the terminus, by a fine viaduct of latticed
iron 140 feet long, and immediately after obtain a view of the
spaciou? bay of Dublin, with its breakwater two miles in length.
32 EXCURSIONS FROM DUnLIN
On tho left is seen Marino, formerly the residence of Lord
Cliarlemont, situated in the middle of an extensive and beauti-
ful demesne with many fine trees. It is now rented by a Roman
Catholic community. Right in front a muddy bay attracts
attention by the work that is going on therein ; it is destined, in
time, to be a public park, and great will be the improvement
when the mighty task is done.
A little farther on is the memorable plain of Clontarf, famous
as the scene of Brian Boroimhe's (pr. Boru's) last victory over the
Danes, on Good Friday, 1014.
As a matter of fact the battle was not fought here at all, but
actually close to Dublin itself ; but the fact that the survivors
were overtaken and slain at Clontarf has caused that name to be
for ever associated with the event.
" Remember tlie glories of Brian the brave,
Though tlie days of the hero are o'er ;
Though lost to Mononia, and cold in the grave,
He returns to Kinkora no more." — Moore.
The Danes, after their first landing in the 8th century,
harassed the Church of the AVest and drove many Irish scholars
to Continental cities. But against them the chieftains could
do nothing till Brian Boru subdued them in the 10th century.
Encouraged by success, Brian fought for and won the overlord-
ship of the whole county in 1001 ; but in 1014 the Vikings
returned to meet united Ireland in its first combined effort.
They did so to their cost, for Bi'ian, though an old man, was
fierce and skilful as ever. "He raised iip all his power to meet
the Danes, and completely defeated them after a bloody struggle
at Clontarf. Their bravest chiefs were slain . . . but the
victorious Irish had to bewail their king, who, owing to the
negligence of his guards, was killed in his tent." The invasions
of the Danes were thus at an end, but "they still held their
own in the great seaport towns, and carried on fierce feuds with
the native tribes, and in slow processes of time became absorbed
into and united with them " {J. H. McCarthy).
Clontarf Castle, the seat of the Vernon s, is also in this
neighbourhood. It is built in the Norman castellated style. The
site of the building was formerly that of an ancient preceptory
of the Knights Templar, dependent on that at Kilraainham.
Clontarf may be reached either by train or tram, the tram-line running
under the railway, continuing to Dollymount and thence to Howth.
HOWTH 33
At DoLLYMOU-VT (hotel), 4 miles from Dublin, a little beyond
Clontarf, are tlie Links of the Royal Dublin Golf Club. The
course, which is 3 miles in extent, is a naiTow one, having the
sea on one side and on the other rough hillocks covered with
bent. The hazards are bunkers, bents, and rushes. The turf is
very fine, and the putting greens excellent. There are eighteen
holes, the longest being about 400 yards, and the shortest 125.
There are constant trams from Dublin, which run in about thirty
minutes. Strangers a^e permitted to play if introduced by a
member of the club.
Beyond Raheny the hills of Howth come well into view. On
the rich plain, which extends nearly to the foot of the Hill of
Howth, corn and cattle flourish, and seawards above them rises
the rugged outline of the "Eye" islet. About a mile farther
we come to the Junction, where we leave the trunk line for
Drogheda, and diverging by a branch to Howth, cross a long
sandy isthmus which connects the Hill of Howth with the
mainland.
Baldoyle, a fishing village near the "velvet strand," where
races are held, is situated to tlic left, with one or two villas in
its neighbourhood ; while Sutton Strand lies to the right of the
railway near Sutton Station. Hotel, Strand (Sutton Cross Roads).
An electric tram runs from Sutton to the top of Howth Hill and
on to Howth Station.
HOWTH (pr. like growth)
Hotels — The Claremont. St. LaT\Tence. Royal.
It was originally intended that this should be the Packet
station ; but after the costly piers had been built, the silting-up
of the harbour necessitated new arrangements, and in 1816
Kingstown Harbour was commenced. It is now a favourite sea-
bathing place and summer resort, the slope of the hill being
studded with villas. An early opportunity should be taken of
seeing the view from the Pier Head Lighthouse, which embraces a
long stretch of the northern coast beyond the " Eye " rock. There
is a bathhouse to the west of the harbour, where hot, cold, and
shower sea-baths may be obtained. The ladies' bathing-place
3
34 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
adjoins it. The gentlemen's is farther east. At the top of the
street is a striking new Roman Catholic Chapel in "French
Gothic " style.
HowTH Harbour. — The importance of constructing a
harbour here was first urged upon the attention of Government
in 1801 by the Rev. W. Dawson. At length, after many
applications, the work was commenced in 1807 by the celebrated
engineer Rennie. The left pier runs out about 2280 feet ; that
on the right is 2700 feet in length, but is so constructed as to
form two sides of a boundary, leaving in front an entrance 320
feet wide. Howth is an important herring-fishing station, and
the fishermen's wives mending their husband's nets are a
picturesque bit of life, common enough on the pier. The
charming rocky island, seemingly a stone-throw from the piers,
but about a mile distant, is that long known as Ireland's Eye.
To this a boat may be had for a few shillings. Tlie ancient name of this
island was " Inis-mac-Ncssan," which literally signifies the " Isle of the sons
of Nessan." The present name appears to be a corruption of that bestowed
on it by the Danes, who railed it Ireland's By — the word Ey in the Danish
signifying an island— e.j. I^ainbey, Anglesey, Jersey, etc. In ancipiit books
it lias been printed Irlandsoy. The remains of the later church of St. Nessan
are still to be seen. A portion of a round tower is attached, and is evidently
the ruins of the bell-tower. Dr. Petrie assigns the period of its foundation
to the middle of the 7th century, when the island was inhabited by Dichuil,
Munissa, and Neslug, sons of Nessan, princely scion of the family of Leinster.
Visitors should notice a rock known as Carrigeen island or rock, and enter
Carrigeen Bay, among large loose rocks covered with wild lichens, mosses,
and ferns, and approach the semicircular arch of the old church doorway,
which stands towards the west. Little of the ruin remains, so there is time
to wander about for half an hour in quiet enjoyment of the scenes which,
like a panorama, spread round on every side. The rocks and caves have
each their peculiar nann's, as the Stags and the Rowan rocks, but we leave
these to the eloquence of the boatman. On the seaward side the cliffs are
very precipitous and imposing. It will be well to row round the Eye, and,
weather permitting, to visit a curious cave on this side. The island con-
tains about lifty-three statute acres. To the southward another of about
one acre in area, called Thulla, is connected by a submerged reef, ThuUa
rocks, over which the sea sometimes lashes with great fury.
HowTH Castle {open Saturday, 2 to 7, grownds only), a long
J mile to the right on corning out from the station. From the
castle gates proceed up the drive, and turn left by "Arthur's Elm"
to the moat-pool ; from this you get the best view of the castle.
Though this has been the seat of the Lords of Howth (St. Lawi'ence)
since Sir Alineric Tristram de Valence arrived linrc in the l'2th century, most
HOWTH 36
of the present building, consisting of a main block with two side winga,
dates from tlie IGth century.
It is remarkable for the wealth of luxuriant foliage with
which it is embowered. The "French gray" colouring of the
stucco which covers it, the thick mantle of ivy, and "false"
battleraented gables that adorn the tops of the wings should be
noted.
Returning to the castle, pass across the front and so round to the
south lawn, on the left side, which for quality of turf runs even
the lawns at Powerscourt rather hard. Flowers are conspicuous
by their absence. Again returning to the front, bear round (left)
out of the drive into the main avenue. Notice the close-cut
yews. This avenue with its two side avenues branching out of
it — all trimly tunnelled — is very uncommon. By continuing
thus past the stables (observe the inscription), you can get out
at the far end, upon the high ground, and obtain fine views.
The chief legend of the castle is that of Grace O'Malley, Granuaile,
or Grana Uile, a western chieftainess, who, returning from a visit to Queen
Elizabeth at London, landed at Howth, and essayed to tax the hospitality
of the lordly o^vner, who refused to give her any refreshment. Determined
to have her revenge, however, and to teach the descendant of the Saxon
hospitality, she kidnapped the heir, and kept him a close prisoner until a
pledge was obtained from his father that on no pretence whatever were the
gates of Howth Castle to be closed at the hour of dinner. Strange though
it may seem, this promise was most faithfully kept up to a very recent date.
A painting of the incident is preserved in the oak-panelled dining-room.
The castle is approached by a flight of steps, leading into a hall extending
the entire length of the building, and decorated with arms. Among these
is the two-handed sword of Sir Almeric, measuring, even in its mutilated
state, five feet seven inches ; the hilt alone being twenty-two inches long.
At the foot of the rocks, south of the Castle, is the "Giant's
Grave " Cromlech, near a magnificent bank of rhododendrons.
The monument consists of ten blocks of quartz, the largest measuring
19 feet in length. " Beranger, who visited and described the remains about
a hundred years ago, states : ' This, one of the grandest mausoleums, must
have been a noble figure standing, as the tallest man might stand and walk
under it with ease." Tlie covering stone, which has been computed to weigh
90 tons, appears to have somewhat slipped from its original position"
{Wakeman). It is pointed out by Miss Stokes that though no carvings of
any kind can be found on these cromlechs in Ireland, yet the evidence that
their builders "celebrated funeral rites in tombs," manufactured axes,
knives, and spear-heads of flint, and were acquainted with the "shaping
and burning" of pottery, shows that they had made some considerable
progress in civilisation.
86 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
After seeing the Castle there are two courses open to the
visitor. He may take the Clontarf and DoUymoimt tram which
runs past the gate on to Howth east pier, passing below the
village, or he may return to the station and take the higher
tram route round the hill. If he wishes to see the Abbey he
must do the first, or proceed there on foot, for he cannot see it by
taking the circular route.
The "Aebey" of Howth, dedicated to St. JIary, is situated
in the village overlooking the harbour. Both the church —
which was not an "abbey" — and college were originally
founded by St. Nessau on Ireland's Eye, nearly thirteen
centuries ago. In the middle of the 13th century the establish-
ment rras removed to tins site, and the present building either
erected or enlarged. The oldest of the two portions is the
nave, divided from the later "Tudor" aisle, on the north side,
by rude pointed arches. The west end appears to have been
much altered, and has a triple belfry ; Mr. Cochrane thinks it
was probably built by the Danes. The bells are preserved in
the castle. The south door may be perhaps a bit of 12th
century work. Notice the porch, a rare feature in Ireland.
Perhaps the west door of the north aisle is of 12th century date.
The 16th century tomb of Christopher Lord Howth bears the
anns of both the St. Lawrences and Plunketts, as well as of
other families.
The College of Howth is a name given to a peculiar mass
of buildings situated close to the burial-ground of the Abbey.
In the centre is a small court, surrounded with high -walled
buildings, now the habitation of the poorer classes.
A footpath called the "New Path" has been made by the
railway company around the whole east face of the peninsula ;
this is, however, rough and precipitous, and should only be
undertaken by good walkers. It passes by the bay of Balscadden,
a favourite bathing place, and goes on to Puck's Rocks and the
Nose of Howth at the north-east corner. A deep fissure separates
the rock from the cliff. Near the summit of the chasm is a rude
representation of a human figure.
Tlii.s figure, tradition tells us, is the petrified remains of an evil spirit
which used to plague the good Saint Nessan when he lived on Ireland's Eye.
On one occasion the saint was reading the much venerated Book of Howth
on the approacli of his fiendish enemy, and raising the precious volume,
Htnick the Intruder so forcibly with it that he w.i8 knocked right across the
water into the rock, which split into that yawning chasm to receive him.
HOWTH— MALAHIDE 37
A little farther on is the unlucky Castlena rock, on which tho
Victoria struck. We next come in sight of the liglithouse, on
the headland to the soutli-east, kno^vn as the Eaily of Howth.
From hereabouts we can rejoin the main road or the circular
tram-route.
The Circular Route : Leaving the station we rise steeply,
and, looking back at intervals, get a fine view of Ireland's Eye
and Lambey Islands, with the village of Howth in the foreground,
all the prettier for being partially shrouded with trees. Bon
Howth, to the south-west, the highest point of which is 563 feet
above the sea-level, is most conveniently ascended from the
public road at its base. The steep rocks of Carricmore overhang
the beautiful grounds of Howth Castle and St. Fintau's Church-
yard, and aflbrd an extensive view of the coast, with a foreground
of heather.
There are many little stations before we reach the summit
where there is a tea-room. Then the vista opens out on the
south and we see the Baily lighthouse.
Baily of Howth.— The term Baily is sujjposed to be derived from an old
Irish word signifying a fortification. The lighthouse was built in 1814 by the
"Ballast Board," in order to supersede an old one which stood 300 feet above
the level of the water. " Here so long ago as the 9th century a.d. flourished
a Ring of Erin, named Criomthann (' Crifl'an '). Some considerable remains
of the monarch's residence . . . might have been seen previous to 1814."
There are still "more than traces of the earthen walls and trenches" {Wake-
man). From the lighthouse a magnificent panoramic view may be obtained
of Dublin Bay and all the coast-line do\vn to Bray Head. Visitors wishing to
view the Lighthouse and Fog Signal should obtain permits from the Secretary,
Irish^Lights Office, Carlisle Buildings, when passing through Dublin, as
otherwise they cannot be admitted.
- The views over the wide Bay of Dublin backed by the mountains
of Wicklow and Dublin are very fine.
St. Fintan's Church (ruins) stands on the south-west side of
Howth, facing the expanse of Dublin Bay, near the Castle. It
was probably built some few years after the Abbey Church at
Howth ; the windows are small, and, with the exception of that
in the east wall, are destitute of ornament.
Besides the supposed Druidical remains already mentioned, several others
of a like character are observetl on different parts of the hill ; indeed the
ground is rich iu hi.storic and traditionary associations. The mountain lime-
stone of Howth is much prized for mantelfiieces and ornaments, being sus-
ceptible of a fine polish. Manganese is at present -s^Tought on the south .side
of Howth. To the botanical visitor it will be sufficient to notice the follow
38 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
ing plants recordctl as found. Scilla vcrna, on the beach ; CrUhmum mari-
tivmm, the samphire; Statice linwnum, sea-lavender; Carduus marianus,
milk-thistle ; and in the marshes, AiMgallis tenella, the bog-pimpernel ; Iris
fietidissima, the blue-flowered iris ; and the Veronica seutellata.
II. DUBLIN TO MALAHIDE
By railway from Amiens Street Station (i!0 mins.).
Malahide (pop. 649 ; Hotel : The Grand). This village is
resorted to for sea-batliiiig, golf, and yachting. There are two
golf grounds, one, the Island, especially popular.
Malahide Castle {grounds open on Wednesdays and Fridays,
10 A.M. to 6 P.M. by order to be had at Amiens Street Station,
Dublin; siKcial order required for House), the fine baronial
mansion of Lord Talbot de Malahide, a large square building
flanked by lofty circular towers. The ancient character of the
building has been retained, but little now remains of the
original castle erected in the reign of Henry II. The main
entrance is a handsome Gothic porch defended by two circular
towers. The grand hall is roofed with richly-carved Irish oak,
and among the many objects of interest is the " Oak Cliamber,"
a room exhibiting the most elaborate carving in oak, and lighted
by a pointed window of stained glass.
The roof, which is lofty, is strengthened by horizontal beams. The walls
are completely wainscoted with carved oak, and in the compartments are
Scriptural subjects. Age, instead of diminishing the splendour of this apart-
ment, has only added to its beauty ; the asperity of the carving has been
softened, and the colour mellowed into a hue of almost ebony blackness.
Tlie other rooms of the castle are worthy of a visit, but lose much of their
interest in the mind of the antiquary from being denuded of their ancient
furniture and decorations, and being restored in a more modern and probably
more comfortable style. Some of the pictures are of great value and interest,
among which may be enumerated : — Portraits by Vandyke, of Charles I. and
his Queen ; by Sir P. Leley, of James II. and his Queen ; the Duchess of
Portsmouth and her son, the first Duke of Richmond ; and Talbot, Duke of
Tyrconnel, and daughters. The finest picture is that by Albert Diirer, a
small altar-piece representing the Nativity, Adoration, and Circumcision.
This painting, it appears, was the property of the "beauteous, hapless Mary,"
and is said to have been originally in that unfortunate Queen's oratory at
Holyrood. Charles II. afterwards purchased it for £2000, and presented it to
the Duchess of Portsmouth when she stood in high favour at Court.
The lordship of Malahide was granted by Henry II. to Richard Talbot, an
ancestor of the present proprietor. Under the Cromwellians the castle was
occupied by Miles Corbet, the regicide ; Cromwell also stayed at Malahide
Castle.
The ancient mo.it is fdlcd uji, and transformed into a .sloping
l)ank decorated with .shrubs. The park is adorned with stately
timber, and conmiand.s a fine sea-view. The island of Lambey
MALAHIDE— DROGHEDA 89
is a conspicuous object in the prospect, rising boldly from the
sea about 3 miles from the shore. The ruins of an ancient
fortress which defended it wei'e some years ago transformed into
a shooting-box by Lord Talbot.
Malahide Abbey, adjoining the castle, contains a well-
executed window.
An altar-tomb in the centre of the ruin will attract attention, from the
figure of a female in antiquated dress sculptured upon it. She married Lord
Galtrim, and her bridegroom went from the altar to head his followers
against a marauding party and was killed. Thus the lady in one day was
"maid, wife, and widow." She afterwards married Sir Richard Talbot.
The Church of Saint Doulaugh, with its holy well, stone
cross, and " St. Catherine's Pond," is about 6 miles from Dublin
and 3 miles (south) from Malahide. Though probably of loth
century date, it has a stone roof of much earlier character.
Swords (pop. about 1000; Hotel: the Royal), a small but
ancient town, lies about 3 miles to the west of Malahide, and is
of interest to the antiquary. The Round Tower, 73 feet in
height, and thickly clad with ivy, was connected with a
monastery founded in the 6th century by St. Columba, whose
well is near. The picturesque loth century castle, to the north-
east of the town, was formerly the palace of the Archbishop of
Dublin.
The line crosses the wide mouths of two rivers making gi-eat
bays. After passing Donabate a large red asylum among the
trees seaward attracts attention.
Lusk, which shares a station with Rush, has a very ancient
parish church with remarkable towers. At the west end of the
churcli there are the remains of the old building, dating from
the 13th centmy, and adjacent to it a fine example of a Round
Tower. At Rush there is an exceptionally fine bulb farm.
Skerries (18 miles) is a small favourite with Dublin folk in
the summer. It has a population of about ISOO, among which
embroidery is a staple industry. Near it are the three islands
of the same name. Combined railway fare and admittance to
hot or cold sea-water baths can be liad. After Skerries comes
Balbriggan, still famed for its hose.
III. DUBLIN TO DROGHEDA, THE BOYNE, AND KELLS
The G.N.E. issues combined rail, coach, and launch tickets for the exploration
of the interesting antiquities in this district. See p. 41.
DROGHEDA
or the "bridge of the ford" (32 miles; pop. 12,765;
Hotel : White Horse), is situated on the Boyne about 4
miles from its mouth. The river is spanned by a railway
viaduct of 15 arches of 95 feet i-i lieight. The town was formerly
fortified, and considerable portions of its walls, with two of its
40 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
gates, still remain as ruins. St. Laurence's Gale, ou the northern
side of the river, is a very perfect specimen ; and tlie West
Gate, also ou the northern side, forms a most picturesque
ruin.
The harbour has lately been improved, and considerable trade
is carried on with Liverpool. There are linen factories, a cotton
factory, and flour-mills, saw-mills, tanneries, breweries, and
chemical works, as well as large eugineeiing works.
Associated with Drogheda are the histories of the memorable siege by
Cromwell, and the " Battle of the Doyne." In 1649 Cromwell landed at
Dublin with an anny of ,12,000 men, besides artillery. Drogheda was the
first place he attacked. It was garrisoned at the time by 2S00 men, com-
manded by Sir Arthur Aston. The assailants were twice gallantly repulsed,
but the third attack, led by Cromwell in person, was successful, after which
he put the garrison to the sword, on the plea that " this bitterness will save
much effusion of blood." On the south side of the town the breach in the
wall where Cromwell and his troops rushed in is still pointed out.
Drogheda contains numerous military and ecclesiastical re-
mains. Among the latter is St. Mary's Abbey, founded in the reign
of Edward I. on an earlier site. On the northern side is situated
the Magdalen Tower, being the only existing remains of the
Church of the Dominican Friary, where the Irisli chiefs sub-
mitted to Richard II. There was at one time an arcliiepiscopal
palace in the town, built in 1620. There is an Erasmus Smith
Grammar School and a Blue-Coat School. Among the other
public buildings may be mentioned the Mayoralty, with assembly
rooms attached, and the "Tholsel," or Town House, a square
building with a cupola.
In the tombs ou Rath-hill, near Drogheda, "from a hundred and fifty tc
two hundred urns wore disinterred, all filled with burnt bones " (Af. Stokes).
The Bovne. — This historic river, which first rises in the dis-
tiicts round Mullingar, and joins the Blackwater at Navan, here
reaches the coast anud some very pretty scenery. A walk of 2^
miles from Drogheda along the south side of the river leads to
the obeli.sk marking the site where, on the 1st July 1690, the
troops of William of Orange crossed the stream to engage the
Irish confederates under James II. in the famous " Battle of the
Boyne. "
William landed at Canickfcrgus, and pu.shed rapidly to the south. His
columns soon caught sight of the Irish army posted strongly (south) behind
the Boyue. " ' I am glad to .=:ce you, gentlemen,' William cried, 'and if you
DROGHEDA— MONASTERBOICE 41
escape me now the fault will be mine.' Early next morning . . . tlip whole
English army plunged into the river. The Irish foot broke in a shameful
panic, but the horse made so gallant a stand that Schomberg fell in repulsing
its charge, and for a time the English centre was held in check." Just then,
however, William himself, with his wounded arm in a sling, arrived at the
head of his left wing, and all was soon over. "James, who had looked
helplessly on, fled to Dublin and took ship ... for France, while the
capital threw open its gates to the conqueror. The cowardice of the Stuart
sovereign moved the scorn even of his followers. ' Change kings with us,'
replied an Irishman to the English taunts, 'and we will fight you again'"
(Green).
"On arriving at the Castle of Dublin, James met the lady Tyrconnel, a
woman of ready wit, to whom he exclaimed, 'Tour countrymen, the Irish,
madam, can run very fast, it must be owned.' 'In this, as in every other
respect, your Majesty surpasses them, for you have won the race,' was the
merited rebuke of the lady " (Kohl's Ireland).
The Great Northern Railway Comiiany arrange for the summer
season a series of tours throughout the Valley of the Boyne, in-
cluding visits to the antiquities of the district. The tours
include rail to Drogheda ; (1) coach to Boyne Bridge, Dowth,
New Grange, Mellifont, and Monasterboice ; (2) Drogheda, New
Grange, Slane, Tara Hall ; (3) steamer trip on the Boyne ; with
several variations. For fares and particulars see the Comjmuy's
Tourist Programme.
A bridge crosses the Boyne near the obelisk. Donore Church,
where James stood during the action, is a ruin occupying a
piece of rising ground on the south side of the river. The grave
of Caillemote, the leader of the French Protestants, is pointed
out at a little distance from the field. It is marked by two elm
trees. The tourist may proceed from the obelisk to New Grange
(page 43) 4 miles, and Slane (page 43) 8 miles by road.
Monasterboice, a celebrated assemblage of ecclesiastical re-
mains, about 4| miles north of Drogheda by road, will well
repay a visit. Enclosed within a churchyard of modest dimen-
sions, and standing quite solitary in the midst of fields, are the
ruins of two chapels, a round tower in good preservation, and
three stoneijrosses, two of which are the finest in Ireland.
Tlie exact dates of the two chapels are not known ; but the smaller one is
. of about 13th century date, and the other is undoubtedly much more ancient.
Of the three crosses the High Cross is the finest here, and one of the best in
Ireland ; it is 27 feet high, and the date assigned by Miss Stolces is 023. Of
the 22 panels, 13 yet remain iinexplained, but the central panel contains the
scene of the Cruciflxion. The sides of the cross are ornamented with figures
and scroll-work alternately. The eastern side is also divided into panels
containing scriptural subjects. The West (or Muredach's) High Cross is of
42 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
uncertain date, as the maker may be one of two Miiredachs who died re-
spectively in S-ll and 921. It is remarkable for the " knob " character of the
decoration of the face ; to obtain wliich effect— similar to that of the jewel
bosses of the bells and book shrines— the numerous human heads have been
cle^'erly used. The carving is sharper, and the subjects include the Judg-
ment weighing of souls, and the Slagi. The costumes give an excellent idea
of Irish dress during the 9th and 10th centuries.
The Round Tower is no feet high, and so second only to that on Scattery
Island (125 feet). It was probably built not later than the beginning of the
10th century, and was one of the earliest formed of " liammer-dressed "
stones. (See also remarks on Clonmacnois.)
Mellifont Abbey, founded in 1142 by O'Carrol and Archbishop
Malacliy for Cistercians, is about 3 miles to the west of Mon-
asterboice, and 5i from Drogheda. Both places may be con-
veniently visited in one excursion. It was consecrated in 1142,
and in 1157 an important synod was held in it. About forty
years after, it sheltered the death -bed of Devorgilla, "Erin's
Helen," whose abduction by the brutal old Dermot had begun
"the whole story of Irish subjugation and its seven centuries of
successive struggles," After its demolition it passed to Sir
Gerald Moore, ancestor of the Marquesses of Drogheda.
The ruined Baptistery still remains, a remarkable building,
which once had eight sides ; some of the round-headed doorways
which pierced each side are in good preservation, and springers
and corbels of the roof prove that it certainly had a roof.
St. Bernard's Chapel, a somewhat later portion, still i)ossesses a lincly-
vaulted crypt ; and there is the remnant of the Gateway Tmuer.
A copper-gilt nwnstraiux from the monastery is now in Dublin JIuseum.
The Boyne Tumuli. — From Slane the Boyne bunds away
to the south rouml a short range of low hills ; skirting their
southern slopes it curves back again to the north, and after the
great loop at the battle-field makes for Drogheda. On the hills
of the D-shaped bit of country within the bend, between the
battle-field and Slane, and bearing the ancient name of the Brugh,
or Palace of the Boyne, arc, says Wilde, "the remains of no
less than 17 sepulchral barrows." Tlie most important are
those at Duwtli, New Grange, and Knowtli.
At Dowth is a jireliistoric tumulus, about ^ mile west from
Dowtli House.' Several explorations have been made, including
1 For full descrii'tion and sketches seethe paper by Mr. George ColTey in
tUo Traru. H. 1. Acad., vol. 30
DOWTH— NEW GRANGE— SLANE 43
the important one of 1885 ; and Mr. Coffey considers it to be
of the same date as New Grange. The general plan consists of
a long passage between large stones ending on a central chamber,
and on three sides of the latter are smaller chambers. When
opened it contained the burnt bones of man and animals, glass
and beads ; and the carvings include the spiral, and tlie encircled,
or "wheel" cross.
Between this and Dowth House are the Rath or "Castle of the Geese," St.
Bernard's Well, and the old Church.
A tree-topped hill, 1^ mile to the south-west of Dowth, covers
the remarkable tumulus of New Grange. It lies to the right of
the road, about J mile short of New Grange House, and is not at
all easy of access. In shape the interior plan resembles that of
Dowth, and is like an Irish cross without the head circle, the
long entrance passage corresponding to the stem. Mr. Coffey
fixes the date approximately at 100-101 B.C. The passage is built
of large stones, and the large central chamber is roofed by flat
stones overlapped to form a dome. Basins and a few trinkets
have been found, but it is supposed that the plundering Danes
carried off all valuables. The carvings, however, are many and
elaborate. These include concentric circles, spirals, and a
kind of undeveloped (?) "trumpet" pattern, though the latter
in true form does not exist in tumuli carvings. Note also the
lozenge, hatched-work and chevrons, all of which were so common
in the Norman work of a later age.
"Among the various designs ... of these tumuli, such as New Grange,
are many which . . . seem but repetitions of similar decorations in the cave
tombs of Malta and other islands in the Mediterranean " (M. Slolces).
The tumulus at Knowth lies IJ mile north-west from New Grange, and
21 from Slane. Its treasures have still to be unearthed.
Four and a quarter miles north-west of New Grange is Slane
{from Droghedal miles road ; Station Beauparc, Z\ miles; Inn).
In the time of Hugh de Lacy Slane was a place of some note,
being a borough in his palatinate of Meath. The 15th century
Hermitage of St. Ere, on the Hill of Slane, lies south of the
town, near the river, in the shade of a grove of ancient yew-trees.
It is named after St. Ere, who was consecrated by St. Patrick,
and an old tradition makes this the place where the latter first
lighted the Pascal Fire in a.d. 433.
Near the liermitage is Slane Castle, dating from the beLdnnina
44 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
of the 17th century, and now the seat of the Marcjuis Conyng-
ham. The ruins of the abbey, consisting of a church and belfry
tower, now form a picturesque object in the demesne of Slane
Castle. Open ouce a year to the public ou August 15.
Duleek, easily reached from Drogheda by rail, 4^ miles, is
7 miles fi'om Slauc. Its ancient name was Daimhliag — i.e. the
house of stone — and it was celebrated for having been the first
stone church built in Ireland. It was erected by St. Patrick in
the 5th century, and placed under the charge of " St. Kienau,
a higli-born youth whom he had baptized. Nothing now remains
of the first church." It was frequently jilundered by the Daues.
The village is situated on the river Nanny. The portions of the
Priory now standing are of various dates and aspects. The tower
is fairly entire. A portion of the defeated army of James II.
retreated to Duleek after the battle of the Boyue, and a bridge
erected in 1587 is pointed out as the spot where his cannon were
placed.
Navan (pop. about 4000 ; two Hotels), 12 miles farther on by
the same line of rail, is a town of considerable antiquity, con-
sisting of three principal streets. The market-day is on Wednes-
day. Navau is a noted hunting centre, and its annual horse
show is famous. In the immediate vicinity are the ruins of
Donaghmore, and a round tower 70 feet in height and 12 feet in
diameter. The remains at Clady and the underground passages
and chambers are worth seeing. On the Boyue between Slane
and Navan there is salmon fishing.
Bective Abbey, 3.^ miles south of Navan, is a fine old ruin on
the Boyne near Boctive bridge. It was founded about the middle
of the 12th century for Cistercians, but there are few remains of
that original building. Tlie chief point of interest about it is
the Cloisters. The walls are built partly in the form of a fortress.
The windows are entirely in the pointed style. The body of
Hugh de Lacy was buried under one of the arches, but his head
was placed in the abbey of St. Thomas the Martyr, Dublin, in
the tomb of Rosa de Monmouth, his first wife.
For Trim {Hotel : Connel's) we cliange lines at Kilmessan. It
is the county town and a centre for the arclueologist. On Fair
Green a Coriutliian pillar surmounted by a statue was erected
in 1817 in honour of the Duke of WcLingtou, who spent much of
TRIM— TARA 45
his early life at Dangan Castle, four miles from Trim. The
ancient castle of the De Lacys, called King John's Castle, and
considered the finest specimen of Anglo-Norman military archi-
tecture in Ireland, still exists in ruins ; so lately as 1688 it was
garrisoned. The remains which pleasantly overlook the Boyne,
consist of the thick walls flanked by no less than ton towers of
various shapes. The keep or donjon rises to a height of nearly
70 feet, and is similar in style to those at Rochester (Kent) and
Carrickfergus. It was built in 1178, some fifty years after
Rochester keep, which is 30 feet higher. Tlie summit, which
may be reached by winding staircases, commands a fine view.
The site of an abbey, said to have been founded here by St.
Patrick, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, can still be traced,
and on the same spot stands the picturesque Yellow Tower,
upwards of 125 feet in height — probably dating from the middle
of the 15th century.
About 2 miles south is Laracoe, where, in Swift's parish, the
cottage where " Stella " and Mrs. Dingley often stayed still exists.
Swift tells how, during his residence here as vicar, he once performed
service to a congregation of one — the sexton ; and opened with the words,
" Dearly beloved Roger, the Scripture moveth you and me, etc."
Nearly one mile below the town, on the river Boyne, are the
fine ruins of the monastery, founded in 1206 by Simon de Roch-
fort, Bishop of Meath, and of the ancient cathedral of St.
Peter and St. Paul, one of the earliest and most elegant specimens
of the light- pointed Gothic style in Ireland.
Tara {Kilmessan Junction, 5 miles ; JVavan, 6f miles ; Bective
Ahhey, 5 miles) is the later form of " Teamhair, a residence on an
elevated spot. There are many places of this name in Ireland "
{Joyce). ' ' The history of this, one of the most interesting places
in all Erin, stretches back into a very shadowy past, teeming
with romance and incident, but to-day a grass -grown mound or
clump of trees alone mark the sites of Halls of Heroes, Palaces
of Ard-Righs, and the sepulchres of kings and queens. Amid
the misty legends of its origin, the first figure that can be dis-
cerned is the Firbolg King Slainge ; then at diS'erent intervals
follow Nuada ' of the silver hand ' from Greece ; Tea, wife of
Exemon the Milesian; Meave, the far-famed 'Queen Mab,'
whose grave lies a mile to the south ; ^ and Tuathal, who built
1 Or perhaps on Knocknarea at Sligo.
46 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
in Meath ' four painted palaces.' " But " the most famous of the
early kings was CorTnac MacAirt" (227-266 A.u. ), "who, say the
Four Masters, 'promulgated law,' and here 'assembled all the
chroniclers of Ireland.' " The love-story of his daughter Grania
and Dermat is a favourite subject of the early legends. Then
comes Dathi, famous as the last pagan Ard-Righ, and the con-
temporary of St. Patrick. The conllict of the saint with Dathi
and his Druids in 428 a.d. is well known. The last of all the
Tara monarchs was Dermot MacFergus ; for did not St. Rodan,
after the refusal of his request, curse the king, his place, and his
race ? Since the year 563 those "Tara's Halls," of which Moore
wrote, have vanished, thrones, stones, and all, and, as Amergin
of old described it, " the meeting-place of heroes " is but "now
a green grassy field."
Just west of Uie fork of the two ancient roads there are on the north slope
of t)ie hill two parallel monnds 759 feet in length ; upon these stood the
Teach Miodchuarta or Hall of Assembly, entered by seven doors on each
side. "Our ancient books enable us to form a vivid picture of this. . . .
Along each side wore double rows of seats and tables, while in the middle
space stood vats of liquor, lamps, and huge fires, at which were numerous
attendants cooking. ... At the southern and highest end sat the king and
chiefs . . . lower down .sat the other courtiers, bards, doctors, historians,
' druids or augurs,' down to the rabble of 150 cooks, waiters, jugglers, jesters,
and doorkeepers."
On the west of this is the Rath of Crania, daughter of Cormac, two con-
centric earth circles ; it is the nearest Rath to the "Clear Well" in the
plantation. Just south of the Hall of Assembly is the Rath of Synods, where
the synods of SS. Patrick, Rodan, Brendan, and Adamnan were held, and close
to it, beneath Tara Church (containing parts of the older building), is the Rath
of Adamnan's Tent, where gold torques were found (page 15). Hard by (S.E.)
was the house of Marisco, the Court " Beauty."
"The oldest monument on the hill," the King's Rath (Rath na Riogh, or
Cathair Crolinn), is again due south of the Rath of Synods, and encloses two
largn mounds, the greater one being surmounted by the Lia Fail or Stone of
Destiny. This mysterious block, 'removed hither from the Mound of
Uostages, immediately to the north of it, is, according to Petrie, the original
one which was brought by the colonisers from Greece, or the Milesians, and
which would cause a " black spot " to appear on any guilty man sealed upon
it. Keating, however, believed it to have been carried to Scone in Scotland,
and thence to Westminster Abbey, where perhajis under the coronation
chair it may still rest. The earthwork beneath it is the Forradh, or Place
of Meeting ; and adjoining is Cormac's House.
In the grave mound, due south of the above King's Rath, was buried
King Laioghaire, as ho had desired, " upright, in his armour, looking towards
his foes . . . till the day of tlie judgment of tlie Lord."
Tlie famous " Tara " Brooch (page 14) lias no known connection with the
place, the name being a fancy one.
DUNSANY CASTLE — KELLS 47
(77ie exhaustive work on Tara is that by Petrie in volume 18 of Trans.
R. I. Acad. ; and there is an excellent paper by Murphy and Westropp in
the No. 1 Handbook of B. Soc. Ant. Ireland, 1895, from which extracts above
are taken.)
Dunsany Castle, some 3 miles south of Tara, is not far from
Drunree station ; modern changes have not interfered with the
Norman portions. North-east is the 15th century church, a
large and well-preserved ruin. Skreen church, in niins, derives
its name from the "shrine " of St. Columba, whose cross and well
are near. There is a fine view from the tower.
Eells, or '^ Ceannanus" (pop. 2427 ; Hotel: Headfort Arms),
is pleasantly situated on the Blackwater, 9 miles north-west
of Navan. This market-town, one of four towns in Ireland
bearing the same name, is of interest from its antiquarian
remains.
St. Columba probably founded his monastery here in 550, some years
before he left it to found the famous House in lona, or Hy-Colm-Kill.
Strange to say, nothing now remains at either place of these two original
monasteries. Three centuries later (807) the lona monks fled hither before
the terrible Danes, and made Kells famous for ever as a religious establish-
ment, by preserving the old foundation and increasing its influence. Never
free, however, from the attacks of the old enemies, Kells saw its Abbey
burnt in 1019 ; and in the 14th century the houses were destroyed by Bruce.
Columba's House is the oldest buUdiug, dating. Miss Stokes thinks, from
the arrival of the monks from lona, but having no connection with St.
Columba himself. St. Kevin's House at Glendalough was probably built
about the same time, and has a similar roof. Between the upper vault here
and the outer roof are small chambers, in one of which Petrie found "St.
Columba's penitential bed " of stone. The Bound Tower is probably
11th centiwy, and much later than those of Lusk, Swords, and Antrim,
Of several fine crosses the most striking is the High Cross in the market-
place, which is covered with detailed sculpture representing the Fall,
Types (4) from the Old Testament of Christ's Descent into Hell, etc. At
the bottom are soldiers and horsemen of much interest. These may
possibly depict the joys of the chase awaiting souls in the life to come.
The Religious House of Columba, however, is most celebrated as having
produced that monument of patience and penmanship — the Book of Kells,
now at Trinity College, Dublin (page 8), of which the Four Masters
record :— " a.d. 1006. The Great Gospel of Colam Cille was stolen at
night from the western erdomh (porch) of the Great Church of Ceannanus."
In the British Museum is a fine crosier, of the 10th century, from Kelts.
At Kieran, not far from Kells, is a holy well and also a sacred bush
which, particularly during the first week in August, is an object of
pilgrimage, and is adorned by rags hung there by the peasants.
48 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN
IV. DUBLIN TO KINGSTOWN, DALKEY, AND BRAY
By Rail from Westland Row or Harcoiirt Street (Dublin and
South-Eastem Railway).
The line to Kingstown, the first made in Ireland, was opened
on the 17th of December 1834.
On reaching Black Eock we get the sea-breeze. Here are good
baths ; there are some bright - looking gardens on the right-
hand side, which are refreshing after the monotonous and
mottled landscape of the south Dublin suburbs. Three minutes
past Salthill, the gloomy grey block on the left, and the long-
extended harbour walls mark our arrival at
Kingstown (pop. 17,377; Hotels: Royal Marine; Victoria;
Royal Mail). This was a fishing village until the harbour was
commenced in 1817. Formerly called Dunleary, it received its
name from the embarkation of George IV. If a town can be
said to be a thief, then is Kingstown one par excellence ; for it
has taken from Howth all its Packet services, and withdrawn to
this side of Dublin Bay all the trade originally intended for the
fine harbour built at the older port in 1807.
The thing here is the Harbour, and from the end of the Kasi Pier is one of
the very finest views of the kind in the British Isles. Within the harbour
is a fleet of every kind of craft, and above and beyond the buildings of the
town rise the hills of Wicklow. Away on the left is Dalkey and its islet,
and to our right is Dublin and the Head of Howth. Notice the monument
to Captain Boyd, " who perished in a noble attempt to rescue the crew of
the brig Neptune, 1861 " (page 12).
Round the Marine Gardens are several large and imposing
buildings, including the Court House and St. Michael's Roman
Catholic Church, a massive Gothic structure. The tram from
Dalkey to Dublin passes constantly ; bathing can be had at
Sandycove (Id. tram). Clarinda Park is residential ; the People's
Park is a pleasure-ground. There is a fine Pavilion.
This is the principal yachting station in Ireland, though its
well-known club yields in seniority to the Royal Cork Club.
The Regatta is generally begun about the 20th of July.
Two miles farther is Dalkey, a town of 3397 inhabitants,
most pleasantly situated on the shore rocks at the southern
horn of Dublin Bay. Overlooking Kingstown Harbour, at the
north-west, and lying at the foot of the southern hill of Killiney,
with its accompanying islet rock off the shore, and with a
climate and north-eastern aspect that just correspond to those
features of Howth, it possesses many points of similarity to the
KINGSTOWN 49
latter rival. It was known as a port before the 14th century.
During the 16t]i and 17th centuries Dalkey harbour was much
used by the Dublin merchants, who found it safer to have their
goods landed there than allow their ships to venture into the
bay, and attempt the passage of the Liffey. In the town and
neighbourhood are extensive remains of fortifications erected to
defend the place against the incursions of Irish pirates, who at
one time swarmed in the channel.
The chief business thoroughfare is not pleasant, but there are many well-
built and attractive villa residences at the south-east point,,within sea "blow."
These are chiefly near Sorrento Gardens, above Sorrento Point, where the
breezy outlook is delightful, and the Bray coast and Sugarloaf Mountains
spread out in fine view. On Dalkey Island, once a Danish fort, is a ruined
church. In the 18th century it was the seat of a mimic kingdom, "the
annual election and coronation of whose king was an occasion of much
festivity and mock pomp by the facetious characters of the city. At the
last coronation (1797) 20,000 persons are said to have been present."
Killiney Hill (1 to 1^ mile from, Valke.y Station, long car, 3(Z.) was in 1887
named Victoria Park. With its obelisk marking the summit (470 feet), it
is a conspicuous landmark for miles. A pillar at Ballybrack marks the spot
where the young Duke of Dorset was killed by a fall from his horse when out
hunting with Lord Powerscourt's hounds. Near the village there is a very
old church, probably of Pth or 10th century date. On the north side of the
hill are extensive granite quarries ; and from the summit there is a magni-
ficent view of Dublin Bay. Upper boulder clay can be plainly seen in the
coast cliff south of Killiney Hill, resting on worn surface of middle sand and
gravel, sloping down to Killiney Bay. The junction of granite with mica
schist is visible at the White Rock, the schist contorted and convoluted
forming concentric crusts. In a field near the road to Bray, a quarter of a
mile from Ballybrack, a cromlech resting on three gray stones can be seen.
On leaving Dalkey Station be on the look-out for an exquisite
but quickly-passing view as the rail turns the headland.
From the gracefully-curving shingle beach the villas of Dalkey climb up
among the tree-clad rocks of Sorrento Point ; and away to the left the
beautiful line of the coast extends, rising and falling over the prettily
pointed sugar-loaves, until down the steep sides of Bray Head it drops to
the sea.
At 7i miles from Kingstown we reach Bray.
DUBLIN TO POULAPHUCA. (For Map see p. 50.)
From the Nelson Pillar take a tram to Terenure ; and at the latter suburb
change into the steam tram. There are 6 through connections daily, each way
(Sundays also). Return fares about 33. (id. and is. 6d. (iV.iJ.— Cyclists can-
not always have machines conveyed.) The journey is a curious and interest-
ing one. Notice tlie Liffey Bridge, and Rathmines Town Hall, before reach-
ing Terenure. Then the line lies (literally) on the main road, and passes
through Tallaght, imder Mount Seskin, and past Brittas to Blessington
(Hotel). Here the scenery begins and Mount Kippure comes into sight (left).
Poulaphuca Falls {Hotel) are reached about 2\ hours after leaving Dublin.
The falls are unusually fine and the creamy foam of the Liffey as it dashes
do^vn three steep ledges of rock into the " Pool " of t;he " Pooka " or Demon,
is very picturesque. It is a good cycle run back to Dublin, as it is downhill.
BRAY
Distances.— (Road and BaU) Dublin, 13 ; 12j. Belfast, 101 ; 136i. Kings-
town, 8i ; ej. Wooden Bridge, 32| ; 44|. Glendalough, 20} ; .
^OTEhS.— Marine Station : International; Bray Head; Lacy's; Esplanade.
All near the sea. Eoyal, in to^vn. Tlie flrst three under same company.
Annual Regatta in July.
Top.— 7424.
Car fares from Bray Station.
For two
persons.
To the Dargle
Waterfall ....
Glen of the Downs
Delgany ....
s. d. s. d.
2 0 to 3 6
4 0
3 6
4 0
Bray is an admirable stopping - place for tourists. It has
first-class hotels, is a centre from which the charming scenery
of county Wicklow can easily be visited, and has close to the
town many beautiful walks ; those round the lower face of Bray
Head, and to the summit in Kilruddery, cannot easily be sur-
passed for interest and grandeur.
The town is a Hishionable watering-place, and has rapidly
risen into importance as a tourists' station, from its proximity
to the Dargle, the Glen of the Down.s, and the Devil's Glen, and
from the lacilily with which it can be reached from Dublin.
Eray Head is the northern and sea cliff of a rocky mass which
at its more southerly summit rises to 793 feet, (a) The coast
path by the railway does not lead to the top, but is breezy and
delightful. At far southern end of the Esjjlanade follow path
ascending through an iron gate. This gate is open {except
Friday) till 8.30, and leads to Grcystones ; but caution is
necessary. (6) The l)est way to the summit is through Kil-
DUBLIK TO ARKLOW
Scale of Miles
o I e 3 4 5
I4'alkr< &■ Bn<t(aJi u.
KTLRUDDERY— THE DAFvOLE 61
ruddery (Earl of Mcath's) grounds {daily excejH Friday ; qjclist.t,
3d. ; horses, \s. each). These are reached eitlicr by taking the
road (right) near tlie Bray Head Hotel, and at the upper inland
crossing turning left ; or by turning left at top of Bray Town,
and passing Newton Vevay and the convent.
Of the two gates at Kilruddery, the right leads to the mansion
(Monday, 11 to 6) ; that on the left is the entrance for the summit
of Bray Head. An ever - widening panorama unfolds as you
ascend until the climax is reached near the White Pillar on the
highest point. The lavish profusion of heath and gorse in late
summer makes this a garden of no mean colouring.
The view is perhaps, of all the views in Ireland, except that from tho
Great Sugar Loaf, the richest in general interest. North over Bray the thin
outline of Dublin Harbour divides Dalkey from Ilowth ; and beyond is
Lambey Island. Then the line of Wicklow hills culminates in the Little
Sugar Loaf, heather-clad, in front of its big brother. South-west is a bit of
Lugnaquilla ; aud left of it (south) are Greystones and Wicklow Head. Over
sea, in a lino with the edge of the bottom step of the White Pillar, on the
Greystones side, Snowdon can lie seen on clear days.
Geologists make the " Cambrian" rock of Bray Head, like that of Howth,
second only to the Archaean rocks of the West in point of age, among the
formations of Ireland.
After visiting the Head, the walk may be continued over
Little Sugar Loaf (1120 feet) to the Glen of the Downs road,
whence we may either return to Bray or visit the Dargle, or
proceed southwards to the Glen of the Downs.
L BRAY TO THE DARGLE, POWERSCOURT, GLEN OF
THE DOWNS, ETC.
Dargle. Enniskerry. Powerscourt Demesne. Waterfall. Glencree.
Loughs Bray. Sally Gap. Liiggala. Lough Tay. Roundwood. Glen
of the Downs. In all about 45 miles.
The Dargle. — This is the favourite excursion from Bray.
Keep along left bank of river by Little Bray ; after crossing a
bridge the road forks, take right turn, the Enniskerry road.
Almost immediately there is a gate and small lodge (N. B. not
larger lodge at corner). There are two possible routes through
the Dargle valley, one on each side, (a) Lord Monck's ; (&) Lord
Powerscourt's. This first entrance is (a). Horse cars are ad-
mitted on payment of Is. or 2s. according to number of horses ;
52 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
motors, cyclists, and pedestrians not at all. The two latter may
cross the small bridge in the road and turn left after a very
short distance to Lord Powersconrt's gate (Golden Gate). Here
they are admitted at a charge of 2d. each. They can go right
through the Dargle Glen and come out near Enniskerry.
(a) The steep car road from Lord Monck's entrance of the
Dargle leads in a long 1^ mile to the Main Gate of Powerscourt,
just beyond the cross -ways. From here a drop of 500 yards
descends to Enniskerry.
(6) Inside, descend the second side path (left), and see a charm-
ing view of the stream ; then regain, by the steps, the broad
path, and so past the Aloss House and Burnt Pock to the pre-
cipitous view-point called Lover's Leap. Left is the Little
Sugar Loaf with two humps, and below (right) is the small tower
of the Dublin Waterworks bridge. Beyond the gate at the
thatched cottage is a very fine view — from Great Sugar Loaf (left)
to Douce and Knockchree Mountains. The lane forward to
Powerscourt entrance is clear ; or, if wished, the ways to Bray or
to the Waterfall hy TinnehiTich House may be taken on the left
in J mile. The latter house was the favourite residence of
Grattan.
Enniskerry [Hotels : Powerscourt Arms (pleasant) ; Leicester
Arms). The village clusters around a copper-topped clock tower.
Its situation makes it a capital centre for the beautiful country
round it. A long-car runs to the hotel from Bray Station, 6d.
each. From Enniskerry one can explore
Powerscourt (Park, free week-days to neighlours ; hut cycles
Zd., and horses Is. each, except for ticket-holders. Tickets at
Office, Enniskerry. Gardens, week-days, Is.). — A mile of beauti-
ful avenue and park-drive ends at the house ; on the way notice,
at the end of the beeches, the charming view of the two Sugar
Loaves. Originally tlicro stood in these grounds a Norman
castle, built by De la Poor. Before continuing past the House
(Lord Powerscourt) to the Waterfall, be sure to see the Gardens
and Terraces, one of the best sights in Ireland. The central
terrace is high above the lower tiers, adorned \vith statuary ;
beneath are the pool and the fountains. Here is, indeed, a
splendid view — the gem of this beautiful demesne. From no
POWERSCOURT AND WATERFALL 53
other point has the Great Sugar Loaf a finer setting. This
terrace is copied from that of the Villa Butera in Sicily. Lower
down, the winged horses of Hagan are as fine as the fountain
figures — painfully posed and attempting impossibilities — are
absurd.
Below the upper arbour on the right is the gi ave of the hound
"Hector." Lord Castlereagh's lines on the slab beginning —
By Dargle's stream aod Powerscourt's smiling steeps
On Erin's breast our Highland Hector sleeps —
are worth reading.
From the upper terrace continue past the house to the walled
gardens. The trim lawns and gates are remarkable.
The Waterfall may be visited straight on from Powerscourt,
where no further charge is made ; or from the main road, where
cyclists pay 3d. and vehicles 6d. or Is. according to horses. The
road starts from the front of the mansion, and proceeds direct
through two gates and down the zigzag. Then turning sharp
(right) up the stream it curves with the glen through a copse of
"frosted" blue-green spruce and the Deer Forest. About | mile
short of the fall is the Keeper's Lodge [Tea Eoom)^ below which
is an ancient burial-ground where, according to report, a church
formerly stood.
The river in its Fall dro]3s obliquely down the face of the
precipitous rocks, which, at this part of Douce Mountain, forms
a vast horseshoe wall round the "picnic green," in which the
road ends. Though the flatness of the rocks detracts somewhat
from the efiect of the Fall, the sheer length of the stream (200
ft.) and its uncommon angle are striking features.
At the dark archway, seen across the stream on the left hand, was once
the soup-kitchen instituted by Lord Powerscourt for the "unemployed,"
and supplied from his own deer-park.
The return may be varied by the road passing Charleville,
Lord Monck's residence, or by taking the Rocky Valley Road
through Kilmacanogue to Bray (see (&) p. 55).
To Roundwood there is only one good road for cyclists, viz.
that which runs close under the north-west shoulder of the
Great Sugar Loaf and follows the Vartry stream. This road,
which turns south out of the Rocky Valley road, is reached from
the Waterfall (above) in about 4 miles.
54 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
(a), The Glencree .joins the Darglo at the wooden bridge. At the Glen
head, and readied by a bad road, are Glencree Barracks, a solitary building
ocenpied in '98 as a military station, but now used as a K.C. Reformatory.
It would be a jileasant route to go up the glen, and visit the Loughs Bray,
Upper and Lower, under the hill of Kippure (2475 feet). Loughs Bray,
Upper and Lower, are situated on the side of the ridge of Kippure, one mile
south of Glencree Barracks. The former, which is a dreary mountain tarn,
covers an area of 28 acres, at an elevation of 1453 feet above the sea. The
situation of the lower lake is highly picturesque, being backed by rocks and
crags of most fantastic shapes, relieved by the beautiful rustic cottage of
Lowjh Bray, and its cultivated groimds, which extend to the margin of the
lake. Tlien take the rough military road as far as Sally Gap. From
here one could go by a winding military road southward to Laragh in
the neighbourhood of the Seven Churches, or, by adopting the left-hand
track, traverse a -wild uninhabited region to the east of Luggala and
Lough Tay, and then regain the main road about 2J miles from Eoundwood.
A pedestrian can diverge from the route between Glencree and Roundwood
by taking a bypath over the face of the hill from Glencree which leads to a
fine view of Lough Tay. It is somewhat difficult to find the track without
assistance ; inquirj' should therefore be made whenever the opportunity
occurs. The pedestrian enters the field by a stile, and ascends in the
direction of a larch jilantation, which he jjasses on his left, and keeps a
regular footpath in the direction of the head of a valley, which appears on
the same side ; crosses the head of this valley, and by a continuation of the
same path passes over the next mountain shoulder, mitil he comes in sight
of Lough Tay, and discovers an extensive prospect spread out before him.
Par imder his feet is a plantation of larches, and at the west end of the nook
he overlooks the Annamoe River, which conveys the surplus water from
Lough Tay to Lough Dan, 'of which he catches just a glimpse in the mountain
cage which encloses it.
The house to the northern end of the lake, embosomed in trees and slu-ubs,
and surrounded with grass sward, whose verdme contrasts strangely with
the brown sterility around it, is Luggala Lodge. Moore's beautiful song,
beginning with the line
" No, not more welcome the fairy numbers,"
was written to a very old air known as " Luggala." On the eastern side of
the valley was formerly a "rocking-stone." A large stone was placed upon
the top of another, so balanced that the smallest efl'ort would shake it, and
was supposed to be self-mo\'ed in the presence of a guilty person. In the
year 1800 a party of military passing this mountain dislodged the rocking-
stone from its pedestal, and it now lies some yards from its original position.
Lough Dan is situated 2 miles farther down the glen, and has
an elevatiim of 685 feet, beiug 122 feet lower than Lough Tay.
It is a larger lake, and receives a portion of its supply from the
Avonmore. This lake is surrounded with wild hills covered with
heath and furze, the hill on its northern side being Kuocknaclog-
hole, 1754 feet ; on the east Slicvebuckh, 1581 feet.
LOUGH DAN— ROUND WOOD 55
Roundwood {Hotels {sviall) : Royal, and Prince of Wales),
originally named Toglia, is a small hamlet with no feature of
interest, where horses can be had. It is a convenient halting-
place on account of its central situation, and is also a good fish-
ing-station for the neighbouring lochs and streams. The town
is situated in the midst of an immense tract of tableland, about
700 feet above the sea. The reservoir for the supply of the
Dublin waterworks is situated near the village. It was con-
structed in 1863 by enclosing the waters of the Vartry.
From here the tourist may return to Bray, direct vi& the
Dargle, and the better roads (14 miles), or by Newtown Mount
Kennedy (page 66) and Glen of the Downs, about 17 miles.
If it is not necessary to return to Bray the same day, he may
also proceed to Annamoe (page 57), and the Seven Churches
(page 58).
(6) The tourist who does not follow the route by Sally Gap
{above), but who, after visiting Powerscourt and the Water-
fall, proceeds direct to the Glen of the Downs, will take the road
which turns to the left round the southern base of the Grt. Sugar
Loaf (1659 ft.), from the summit of which a remarkably fine
view is obtained.
Passing Glen Cottage we arrive at The Glen of the Downs,
which is about a mile and a half in length, and 150 feet in width.
For a considerable distance it runs along the foot of the Downs
Mountain, 1232 feet. The sides of the glen rise somewhat
abruptly to a height of about 600 feet, and are clothed with a
dense covering of copsewood. From the glen a view is obtained
of the greater Sugar Loaf Mountain. There are two mountains
bearing this name. These conical-shaped hills, which form a
feature in Wicklow scenery, are said to have borne an Irish name
meaning " the gilt spears," as they retained the light of the sun
long after the rest of the landscape had been enveloped in the
twilight, but their modern appellation is more matter of fact.
The Turkish Pavilion and Octagon are well placed on the brow
of the glen, and oS'ord most extensive views of the surrounding
country and the sea. From the glen of the Downs the drive
back to Bray is 5 miles.
56 EXCURSIONS !• ROM BRAY
II. BRAY TO THE DEVIL'S CLEN, THE SEVEN
CHURCHES, AND VALH OF OVOCA, OR AVOCA
Itinekaky.
Bray by Rail to Ratlinew Station . . . , , 19J milps.
Rathnew by Car to Devil's Glen 3i ,,
Devil's Glen ,, Aniiamoe 6 „
Annamoe „ Seven Churches .... 3) „
Seven Churches „ vid Avonmore to Rathdrum Station 8 „
Rathdrum ,, to Meeting of the Waters . . 4 ,,
Ovoca (by Rail), return to Bray S2i „
For this excursion {good cycling throughout) an early train
may be taken from Bray to Rathnew. There a car may
be had to proceed either direct to the Devil's Glen or to
the villige of Ashford, which is contiguous to the glen, and
where there is a comfortable inn. Near the latter place are the
classic grounds of Rosanna, where ilrs. Tighe comjrased the
well-known poem of Psyche ; it is now the seat of Mr. Tighe,
The estate is one of the best wooded in the county.
Su})posing we proceed direct from Rathnew to the glen, the
road ascends gradually, with beautiful hedgerows on either side,
till the gate of Ballycurry demesne is reached (3 miles). The
car may pass the first gate, but at the second the traveller must
alight and proceed on foot up The Devil's Glen, about a mile and
a half in length, and watered by the river Vartry, which forms a
beautiful cascade at its upper extremity. It is somewhat like
the Dargle in appearance, and as picturesque, of a sombre cast,
and on a gi-ander scale. On Wednesdaj^s and Saturdays cars may
go through the Glen at certain hours and on certain conditions.
The pathway follows the left bank of the rivulet. The first
halting-place is the Summerhouse, above which a series of steps
leads up to a shelf of the rock where a fine view of the glen is
obtained. Loaving the Summerhouse, and proceeding upward,
the last gate is reached. Here we enter on a meadow, but keep-
ing near the side of the stream, at a short distance the waterfall
comes into view. The tourist will oliserve a space between two
boulders kuowni as King O'Toole's window, through which the fall
may be seen to full advantage. Scrambling up the side of the
glen till the top of the declivity is attained, a fine prospect
bursts on the view, including the fall, and in the distance the
DEVIL'S GLEN— ANN AMOE 57
Wicklow Mountains. This was one of the strongholds of Holt,
the Wicklow General, in the rebellion of 1798.
Returning by the same path to the car in waiting, the tourist
may proceed to the Seven Churches vid Ashford. From this a
drive of 6 miles will take us to the village of Annamoe,
which may also be conveniently visited from Round wood. It is
situated on the burn of the same name which issues out of Lough
Dan. Little can be said about the few thatched houses which
compose the village, save that the place is to a certain extent
interesting ground, on account of the accident which nearly
deprived the world of Uncle Toby, the poor Lieutenant, and
Corporal Trim. Living at the barracks of Wicklow, in 1720,
Laurence Sterne says in his autobiography : ' ' From thence we
decamped to stay half a year with Mr, Featherston, a clergyman,
about 7 miles from Wicklow, who, being a relative of my mother's,
invited us to his parsonage at Animo. It was in this parish,
during our stay, that I had that wonderful escape of falling
through a mill-race whilst the mill was going, and of being taken
out unhurt. The story is incredible, but known for truth in all
that part of Ireland, where hundreds of common people flocked
to see me." A ruined water-mill is still shown as that which
was the scene of the accident.
Whilst on the bridge at Annamoe, it would be well to take a
look across the valley to a green knoll, about a mile distant, on
which are situated The Ruins of Castle Kevin. This was from
time immemorial the stronghold of the O'Tooles, who, with the
O'Byrnes, held the greater part of Wicklow. There can be little
doubt that the ground upon which St. Kevin built his churches
was originally granted to him by the then chief of the O'Tooles,
thoi;gh the conditions of the grant, and the manner of raising
the structures, are perhaps not altogether correctly stated in the
old traditions, prose and verse, to be met with. The castle,
which is now in ruins, is supposed to have been built by the
O'Tooles some time in the 12th century, and to have remained
principally in their hands until the end of the 13th. A little
farther on is the village of Laragh.
Laragh. — Adjoining the old barracks, now a private residence,
are a church, a school, a constabulary station, and a mill. The
village itself is prettily situated at a spot where the vales of
the Laragh, G.leumacnass, and Glendalough meet. We turn to
the right, through the village, and pass the beautiful little
58 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
piopeity of Deirybawn, so called from the mountain at the base
of which it lies.
The road from Laragh now strikes westwards for a mile and
three-quarters, and, noting the good views of the Hearing valley,
we reach Glendalough ' {Hotels : Royal (central, good) ; Kav-
anagh's Tempcrauee (comfortaljlc, a few beds). Distances : Laragh,
IJ mile ; Jiathdnim, 8 miles ; Roundivood, 11 ; Bray, 23J).
Glendalongh is one of the most beautiful valleys in Ireland,
and, quite apart from its antiquarian interest, is well worth
seeing. There are endless walks along hill-sides clothed in gorse
and heather, fir and larch woods ; fishing iu river and loch for
those who care for it, and at every turn, in every direction, views
which are a delight to those with eyes to see. The Royal Hotel
is in the very centre of interest. The hotel is well arranged and
very pleasant. The season begins about the end of May, so
those who like solitude are advised to go before that date. The
"Seven Churches" of Glendalough, though scarcely of greater
archasological interest than the "Seven Churches" of Clonmac-
nois in the west, have always been the most popular group of
ancient ecclesiastical buildings in Ireland. The reasons are not
far to seek. Glendalough is only 30 miles from Dublin, and
easily accessible to all English tourists. Besides, whilst St.
Kieran died quite young in his western monastery a twelvemonth
after founding it, the long life of St. Kevin within the " city " of
Glendalough has left a personal interest here which must attract
the most lukewarm of hero-worshippers. In these ruins we have
the saint's biography "writ large" iu stone. Apart from his-
torical associations also the glen is geologically interesting.
"The Round Tower and churches at Glendalough," says Dr.
Edward Hull, "are built on a moraine, which has been thrown
across the Glendalough valley by the glacier that descended the
vale of Glcndasan. . . . Against its northern flank the old
(river) terrace of gravel has been deposited."
Sir Walter Scott, who visited the ruins and the " Bed " in
1825, called it "the inestimable singular scene of Irish anti-
quity. "
1 Saturday to Monday coniliinrd raihv.ny, coafh, and hotel tickets are
issued betwi'on Dublin aud Gleudalough at 2l8. 9d. 1st, ISs. 3rd ; day tickets
lOs. Od. and ',i. Od.
GLENDALOUGH 59
Kevin {Cocmhghcn), "a high name over the sea-wave, chaste
and fair," as the ancient writers call him, was of the royal
house of Leinster. After his education, under his uncle the
Bishop of Ardstraw, he retired to the upper lake of Glendalough,
where for 7 years, an ancient book tells us, he lived a hermit ;
"on the north shore of the lake his dwelling was a hollow tree,
on the southern he dwelt in a very narrow cave." Such was his
"narrow hovel," described by Cuimin of Condeire as "a great
shelter against demons," But his retreat was discovered by a
shepherd, and the people who then flocked to him built him a
cell and an oratory near the lake's southern shore. Later on he
founded the Monastery "of the valley of the two lakes," where,
"clothed in the coarsest garments, and living on herbs," he
built up the beginnings of " the city." Stern ascetic though he
was, he could be as gentle as St. Francis, and legend tells of
"King Branduff hunting the boar and finding the saint praying,
while a crowd of tame birds sang on his shoulders and hands."
The only reliable date we have is that of Kevin's death. It is
pretty certain that he was buried in the Church of St. Mary,
A.D. 618. Many of the buildings now standing are of later date,
and most, if not all, of the carvings must have been cut after the
first years of the 11th century. The place was devastated by
fire and sword in that century, also in 1163, and again 200 years
afterwards.
St. Kevin's two chief disciples were Berach and Machory, or
Mochuarog, the Briton.
[For fuller details see Pctrie, and the description by Wcstropp
and Murphy ; R, S. Ant. I. Handbook, 1895 ; also Handbook to
Glendalough, by T. Nolan, M.R.I. A."]
The buildings, which, are scattered over about 2 miles of the
valley, are named below in the order in which they are usually
visited. The accompanying plan will make the route quite clear.
Guides can be had for the entire expedition, including boat to St.
Kevin's Bed, at 2/6 a head. But the churches, etc., are national
monuments and can be freely seen by those who prefer to go alone.
Trinity Church stands by itself and is passed before arrival at
Glendalough about | mile away on the Laragh road. It is in a
field on the left. At the west end of this " very early building "
— which is probably the cell founded east of the city by Mochuarog
— an early door opens into the Sacristy, over which stood the
round tower destroyed by the storm of 1818. The angular head
80 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
of the south chancel window is of the most primitive kind.
After crossing the Glendasan stream from the hotel you tee the
heavy, round-arclied Gateway, above which was once a tower.
Going up the steps leading into a beautiful grove of firs on the
right you ai)proach the Round Tower. This, with the bell
turret of "Kevin's House," is one of tlie most striking features
of Glendalough. It is some 15 feet sliorter than that on Scattery
Island, and, according to Miss Stokes, of later date. Observe
that, like the towers of middle date (10th to 11th century), the
stones are "well dressed," and the doorway and windows of
some finer material than the wall.
It will be observed that the Round Tower is close to the
cathedral as in other cases, notably Brechin in Scotland. It
served as a place of refuge for the priests in case of need ; for this
reason the entrance door is always found at a height above the
ground. The conical top of the Tower was blown off in a storm
but has been restored, and the building is now the most perfect
specimen of a Round Tower in Ireland.
Passing on to the churchyard you find the ruined Cathedral,
called in 1307 "the Great Church of Gly-de-lagh." The original
building was probably buUt soon after Kevin's death (618-700),
but of such the remains are difficult to find. The nave is
certainly older than the chancel, as the latter is not bouded-in,
and exhibits work some 5 centuries later than the date of the
foundation. The north door has some good mouldings ; on the
south is a late sacristy, and perhaps the windows on this side of
the nave are the oldest of all. The chancel arch has been
almost wholly reconstructed, as also the inner arch of the east
window of the chancel. In the latter are some early tombs.
Outside the west end the lintel of the door is relieved by the
arch above ; note also the antm projecting from the end wall at
each corner, a conmion feature in old Irish churches.
Close by the path on the south side of the cathedral is St.
Kevin's Cross, of granite, 11 feet high.
Immediately west of the Cross, on the opposite side of the
narrow path, the "curious arclicd scat or recess," with broken
top, marks the end of the Priest's House. This building,
which " was a complete ruin in 1840," has been rebuilt. The
carved work of the fragmentary mouldings on the above " recess "
arc some of the most elaborate in the place. On the right-hand
capital notice the moustache and chin. "The shattered frag-
GLENDALOUGH 61
ment of the famous pediment, with St. Kevin seated between a
bishop and a bell-ringer, is over the door." This is now sadly
worn by weather.
Beyond, and nearer the stream, is one of the most interesting
of all the buildings, Kevin's House or Kitchen. The date of
this church, easily recognised by its short, round bell-tower at
the west end, is supposed to be 807. Like St. Columba's House
at Kells and some other similar chapels, it possesses an attic
or "overcroft" between its barrel-vault within and the steep
stone roof above. It was originally built without the tower or
chancel, which were afterwards added. Note the holes for bell-
ropes under the tower ; and, outside, the "relieving" arch above
the west door. It was partly burnt down, together with a church
near, in 1163.
Its rude outlines seen rising against a background of blue
hills possess a dignity which can only be the result of its being
the work of hands dead for over 1000 years !
From here the river is crossed, and on the other side is the
great stone called the Deerstone with a curious hollow or
"buUaun," concerning which Paddy has strange tales to tell,
such as of the doe which in answer to the saint's prayers came
and dropped her milk into it for the nourishment of starving
babes. [If preferred a detour may now bo made, left, along the
river to St. Saviour's monastery (about f mile), but it is Ijetter
to do this on return.]
Otherwise continue, right, along the river-side past the Lower
to the Upper Lake, and visit PoUanass Waterfall (see plan).
Here is Glendalough Hotel at the base of the hill overlooking the
Upper Lake. Just beyond it is Rhefort Church. It is probable
that we have here the second church erected by Kevin himself
for his early monastery. It was later known as the " Priory
of the Rock," and after being the cemetery of the Mac Giolla
Mocholmog, became the graveyard of the family of King O'Toole
(O'Donovan). That monarch's slab was once here, so say the
guides, but was broken and sold piecemeal as "specimens of the
grave of a rale ould Irish King." The church has round-headed,
deep-set windows, and the corner-stones and doorway are massive.
It has been judiciously and unobtrusively restored. On the east
side are two Celtic crosses.
Noticing the numerous crosses around, retrace your steps and
go to the boat-landing, and take boat to St. Kevin's Bed, the
62 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
famous cave known as " Leaba Caomghin," where the saint spent
his early seven years of hermit life, high up on the lonely and
almost inaccessible rock. "A great shelter against demons," as
said Cuimin of old, it doubtless was, but no place of security
froin the persistent devotion of the fair Kathleen, who, " with
eyes of most unholy blue," traced the saint's steps hither, and
discovered his retreat, as Moore tells us in his poem.
About 300 yards farther up the shore is the "Church of
the Rock" {Tcnvple-na- Skellig), a low oblong ruin, with a restored
double east window. Thie is the oldest of the seven churches.
Returning now along the Upper Road, when almost at the
Round Tower make a detour down a side road to Our Lady's
or St. Mary's Church, identified by some with the " Cil Ifin " or
Aifteu's Church. It is probably on the site given to the dying
Kevin after the saint's vision. By this vision he had been
directed to make a church "east of the lesser lake, where his
resurrection was to be." The thickness of the walls is almost as
striking as the much-admired and Egyptian-looking west door,
which for impressive character rivals that at Temple Martin in
Ken-y. The cross on the lower face of the lintel is uncommon.
Round the outer east window is a " Wall of Troy pattern."
Returning now along the Upper Lake Road to the hotel, it is
necessary to go down past St. Kevin's Kitchen and turn left by
the Deerstone, tlience follow a charming terrace walk until the
first cottage standing above on right is seen ; opposite on left is
a gate which gives access to a field in which amid a grove of
Scotch firs stands St. Saviour's Priory. This is later than
the ruins already visited, as it dates from the 12th century. It
possesses the richest arch and east window in Glendaloiigh. The
chancel arch has been reconstructed, and the stones in the arch
are not replaced exactly.
Returning again from the valley to Laragh Village, we take
a sharp wheel to the right, and enter the charming Vale of Clara,
through which flows the Avonmorc River, swelled by the waters
of Annamore, Glenmacnass, Glendassan, and Glendalough. Our
way for the lirst mile is by the great military road, which leads
from Dublin to Drumgoff Barracks,' and thence by Aghavannagh
1 Tliere is a road over the hills from I.aragli to Drumgoflf Barracks (New
Inn), which, though avoided by tlie carmen on account of its steepness,
possesses some exijuisiti! views of the surrounding country.
VALE OF CLARA— RATHDRUM—OVOCA 63
to Baltinglass, On our right we pass under Derrybawn, and on
our left Trooperstown Hill. The vale, which has little of the
wild or striking in its character, is very beautiful, and aflords
an agreeable rest to the visitor after straining his eyes and hav-
ing his ears all but deafened by the vociferations of the guides.
About 3i miles short of Laragh we come to Clara Bridge, but
do not cross it. A mile and a half farther is Copse House,
situated in a wood, the property of the Earl of Meath. The
copsewood extends from the base of Moneystown Hill along the
Avoumore River, being tlio largest in Wicklow, to the vicinity
of Rathdrum, a distance of fully 3| miles. The road between
Laragh and Clara Bridge is continued all the w^ay on the bank
of the Avonmore, which flows occasionally at our feet, and now
and then is lost to view, owing to the elevation of the road.
Approaching Copse House, however, we gradually separate from
it, leaving it a considerable distance at times to our left, until
we enter the town of Rathdrum.
Rathdiaim [Hotel : Grand Central, at Station) is about 7 miles
from Laragh. The town is agreeably situated, but not attractive
iu itself. Cars can be hired (5s.) between Rathdrum Station and
Seven Churches (8f miles), but inquiry should be made before-
hand as to the time of starting. At Drumgoff, 7 miles from
Rathdrum, Lugnaquilla (page 68) may be ascended.
From Rathdrum the train follows the course of the river, and
enters The Vale of Ovoca or Avoca. {Hotels: Vale View about 1
mile northward of station, can be seen from train in passing ; inn
in village ; a private hotel pleasantly situated about 1 mile south-
ward of station ; tea-rooms on public road above it.) The vale is
well wooded, but has been much disfigured by mining works.
Avondale, the residence of the late Mr. C. S. Parnell, is passed on
the right, and then ajipear the turrets of Colonel Howard Brooke's
seat, Castle Howard. The river is crossed by a quaintly-
picturesque bridge known as the Lion Bridge. The entrance to
the demesne is by a castellated gate surmounted by a lion
passant, the crest of the Howard family'. The structure
gains much in effect from its position on an elevation of 200
feet above the river. The hills around are richly wooded.
The "Meeting of the Waters" is soon approached, where the
Avonbeg unites with the Avonmore, and flows down the vale
under the name of the Ovoca, amid projecting rocks, o'erhanging
64 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
trees, and every adjunct to picturesque effect. The scene alto-
gether is not unworthy of the verses of iloore —
Thera is not in the wide world a valley so sweet
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet.
Oh 1 the last rays of feeling and life must depart,
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart.
Yet it \vas not that nature had shed o'er the scene
Her purest of crj'stal and brightest of green ;
'Twas not her soft magic of streamlet or hill.
Oh no I— it was something more exquisite still.
'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near
Who made each dear scene of enchantment more dear.
"On the summit of the bare ridge of Cronebane (816 feet),
overlooking Castle Howard," is the huge boulder of gray granite
whose history is so delightfully given by Dr. Edward Hull.
The two valleys of Gleumalure and Glendalough are, as is pointed
out elsewhere, of considerable interest to geologists ; and at the
lower end of the former, " above the junction of the rivers Avon-
beg and Avonmore," is a good example " of old river terraces."
The vale is thusdescribed by Kohl: — "Beautifully-picturesque
groups of oaks and beeches, everywhere hung with ivy, constitute
one of the main beauties of the Vale of Ovoca. This, to some
extent, is the character of all the valleys of Wicklow through
which rivers flow, while the summits of the mountains and the
unwatered vales remain completely bare. The Irish oak differs
materially from the English oak ; yet this difference, so striking
that you notice it at the first glance, is difficult to describe. The
branches are less knotted and spreading. Tliere seem to me to
be more straight lines and fewer crooked ones ; more length and
less breadth in the Irish oak."
Another stranger. Prince Puckler Muskau, writes in glowing
terms of the spot. "Just before sunset," he says, " I reached
the exquisitely-beautiful Avondale. In this paradise every pos-
sible charm is united. A wood, which appears of measureless
extent ; two noble rivers ; rocks of every variety of picturesque
form ; the greenest meadows ; tlie most varied and luxuriant
shrubberies and thickets ; in short, scenery changing at every
step, yet never diminisiiing in beauty."
An English writer (Mr. Barrow) gives a very different account
of the place. "As to the ' Meeting of the Waters,' " he writes,
WOODEN BRIDGE 65
"as the Irish are pleased to call the confluence of two little
streams, pompously or poetically as you may please to decide, I
think more has been made of it than either the waters or their
meeting deserve. There are, in fact, two places in the valley
where two streams meet, one towards the lower end, where the
scenery is rich and beautiful, the other, which I was assured to
be the ' riglar ' meeting, was higher up the vale ; and I confess,
on arriving at it, I was disappointed, and could not hesitate in
giving preference to the place of the confluence of the two streams
we had passed lower down." In the neighbourhood are copper
and sulphur mines, that of Cronbane producing black copper ore
and pyrites.
At the end of the valley we come to Wooden Bridge (Wooden
Bridge Hotel). Just before the door of the hotel the second or
lower meeting of the waters takes place, the river Aughrim here
flowing into the Ovoca. This spot is supposed by some to be the
scene of the poem, and many and fierce are the contests between
the partisans of the spots for the honour of Moore's patronage.
In a letter written to a friend by the author, and published in
his memoirs and journal, he says: "The fact is, I wrote the
song at neither place, though I believe the scene under Castle
Howard (first meeting) was the one that suggested it to me. But
all this interest shows how wise Moore was in connecting his
poetry with beautiful scenery. As long as the latter blooms, so
will the former."
There is no doubt Wooden Bridge is more attractive than
Ovoca, and it does not suff"er from the mining industry. Between
this and Arklow are Glenart Castle (Lord Carysfort) and Shelton
Abbey (Earl of Wicklow), see page 69.
Wooden Bridge Station is the junction for Aughrim, see
page 69,
Gold is to be found on Croghan Kinshela, a hill situate about
3| miles to the south-west of Wooden Bridge. A small brook,
which joins the Ovoca at the bridge, flows through the aurifer-
ous district. At the end of the eighteenth century the Government
realised about £3700 out of the gold mines (page 15).
From Wooden Bridge the tourist may return by train direct
to Bray, or proceed to Arklow (page 69) aTid Enniscorthy (page
71) and thence to Wexford or Waterford.
5
EXCUESIONS FROM BRAY
III. BRAY TO WICKLOW, WOODEN BRIDGE,
LUGNAQUILLA, ARKLOW
Bray to Delgany
Delgany to Mt. Kennedy
Mt. Kennedy to Ne\Tratli
Itinerary
Miles
Miles.
Newrath to Wicklow . . 2
Wicklow to Avoca (Meeting) . 14
Avoca to Arklow ... Si
Leaving Bray, we pass along the sea-coast under the great
precipices of Bray Head ; the line is a splendid piece of engineer-
ing work. The first station is Greystones {Hotels : Grand ;
Railway ; Beach, small), a pleasant watering-place, coming
rapidly into note. The little town, with its landward fringe of
villas, gathers round a tiny harbour, and the whole group nestles
at the low coast that almost bounds the outlying slopes of the
Sugar Loaves. Two miles from Greystones is
Delgany {Hotel), where, at the end of the 6th century, and
not long after St. Patrick's death, there lived St. Mochory
(Mogoroc), disciple of St. Kevin of Glendalough. Some 500
years later its roads "wore a ruddier mien " when the King of
Leinster defeated Sitric and his Dublin Danes.
One of the stations is Kilcoole, 3 miles from which is Newtown
Mount Kennedy, in a rich tract of country. At Newcastle is the
National Hospital for Consumption in Ireland, which shows how
favourably the climate is regarded by medical men.
It is 8| miles southward by rail to Wicklow (pop. 3288 ;
Hotels : Bridge ; Grand ; Green Tree ; 30 miles from Dublin), the
county town. It is pleasantly situated on the side of the hill
above the mouth of the Vartry river, and has an ancient history,
going back to the foundation of its first church by St. Mantan,
the contemporary of St. Patrick. Remains of a 13th century
Friary are still to be seen.
Tlipre is a fine view of the north coastcurving up to Newcastle to be seen
from tlie hill above. The Murragh is a stretch of detached beach on the
north, sometimes used for the militia encampments. It corresponds both
in position and name with the " Mooragh " of Ramsey in Man, to which
latter town Wicklow has several points of similarity.
Rathnew Station is 1^ mile west of Wicklow, and affords
WICKLOW & WEXFORD
,i Ai Johjist on, J,TiTiiip a >. oinbor^-b- -i l
Pu})llEryeat;(rA.&C.ElacTc,I.oiiaou
NEWRATH— DRUMGOFF— GLENMALURE 67
communication with Ballinalea, the Devil's Glen (page 56), and
Newrath {Hotel: Newrath Bridge), situated in the centre of
what has been happily termed the Garden of Wicklow. About
a mile from Newrath is Ashford (page 56), where there is also an
hotel.
From Rathnew Station it is 8^ miles to Rathdrum (page 63),
from which a cyclist will find a fairly good road through Ballina-
clash (3 miles south) to DrumgofT (9 miles). Above Ballinaclasli
the road passes up the beautiful and wooded valley of the Avon-
beg ; and though the hills here are insignificant, the best parts
of the Glenmalure excursion are, in our own opinion, between
" Clash " and Ballinacor. Greenan Bridge (Edge's Tea-Room) is
just short of Ballinacor House, the old house of the local
chieftain of the 16th century, O'Brien, or O'Byrne. Notice the
heather-carpet of the ground as you pass along the valley road
under Kirikee mountain (right) to
Dmmgoflf {Hotel). By this time you find yourself well into
Glenmalure, one of the best bits of "Wicklow scenery. It is
worth while for all visitors to continue at least 2^ miles (excel-
lent cycling) up the glen, to the disused quarryings. On your
left you pass the zigzag path, by a waterfall, that climbs Lugna-
quilla ; and there is a fine view, after, of the head of the glen
blocked by Table Mountain, with a form like that of an over-
turned dish.
This glen was held in the time of Queen Elizabeth by a rude chieftain,
Pheagh MacHugh O'Byrne of Ballinacor, who kept coart here like a monarch.
In 1580 he defeated with much bloodshed Lord Grey de Wilton in the vale of
Glendalough. In 1507, however, he was killed in an engagement with Lord
Deputy Russell. It was while in Glenmalure tliat Holt, the leader of the
Wicklow insurgents in the rebellion of '98, received the conciliatory letter
from General Sir John Moore.
Geologists will observe the granite boulders "which have
been brought down from the interior of the mountains," and
have congregated at Ballinacor Park ; and at the upper end of
the park the "old terminal moraine of the glacier, which for-
merly extended down this noble glen, and drained the snow-
fields of Lugnaquilla. " A little above Drumgoff a moraine
extended right across the valley, and above this the terraced
valley "may once have been the bed of a lake. . . . This is
probably one of the latest examples of local moraines amongst
the Wicklow Mountains " {Dr. E. Hull).
68 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
To mountaineers who delight in extensive views, the ascent of
LuGNAQUiLLA (30o9 feet; "the hollow of the grouse") will
commend itself. It is best reached from Drumgoif Hotel by the
path above mentioned (page 67), which leaves the Glemnalure
valley road at the waterfall between 2 and 3 miles from the
hotel.
In point of height it takes second place in Ireland, being 376
feet lower than Carutual in Kerry (page 165). Skiddaw, in Cum-
berland, overtops it by only 15 feet. It is interesting to the
geologist as the central culminating point of the line of granite
hills which stretch south-westwards from near Dublin to the
hills above New Ross, and on which probably once lay the great
snowfield of the east coast.
This mountain gives rise to three important rivers — the
King's River on the north, one of the chief tributaries of the
Liffey ; and the streams flowing toward the south, which after-
ward become the Avoca and the Slaney. The latter at first
begins its long journey to Wexford down the Vale of Imale, a
glen on the north-west of the mountain, which takes its name
from "the descendants of Mann Mai," brother of King Cahir-
more, in the 2nd century.
The summit of Lugnaquilla commands a wonderful extent of
country if you can secure a clear day. To the west is the wide
dullish country running into Queen's County and Kilkenny ;
eastward are mountain and vale, wooded glens, and streams
bounded by the sea. The curiously-named north and south
"Prisons" on opposite sides of the mountain are imposing
granite bluffs, with crumbling surf.ice.
The upper part of the journey from Druragoff over the
shoulder of Table Mountain has not much to recommend it ; but
the "Military Road," which goes in a north-east direction to
Laragli and Giendalougli (8 miles), is interesting, and affords
very fine views. It passes through the Glen of Ballyboy.
The MUitary Road, which crosses the Wioklow Mountains at a consider-
able height, runs from Aghavanagh Barracks almost into Dublin. It was
made soon after the disturbances of 1798.
The best cycling road from Drumgoff to Wooden Bridge
(page 65) is the direct one following the Vale of the Avonbeg
down to Avoca — in all, 12 miles. The river Avonbeg, which,
uniting later on with the Avonmore under Castle Howard, forms
ARKLOW 69
the first "meeting of the waters," passes down Glenmalure ; and
the Aughrim River, from the glen of the same name, uniting
with the Ovoca, forms the second meeting at the Wooden
Bridge.
From Wooden Bridge to Aiighrim (5^ miles) the road follows
up the left bank of the Aughrim River, through pretty scenery.
The stream is crossed by Coates Bridge in 3^ miles.
Aughrim {Hotel, small) is pleasantly situated in the glen of
Aughrim, which, properly so called, begins here, and stretches
in a north-westerly direction, almost parallel with Glenmalure,
until it is terminated by the lofty Lugnaquilla (page 68). It is
the first station on the branch railway, which runs through
pleasant and mostly wooded country to Tinahely (12 miles), and
Shillelagh (16| miles), the famous nursery of walking-sticks.
In the glen of Aughrim — not to be confused with Aughrim
near Ballinasloe — General Holt had an engagement with the
king's forces in 1798.
From Wooden Bridge, at the south end of the Vale of Avoca
(described on page 63), the main line turns seaward past Shelton
Abbey, the beautiful demesne of the Earl of Wicklow, on the
left of the line. The Gothic house, in which the runaway James
II. hid after his unhappy time at the Boyne, still exists.
Glenart Castle is on the opposite side of the Avoca, and cyclists
and cars may pass through the grounds on the production of a
pass to be obtained at Wooden Bridge Hotel or station.
Among meadows we reach, at 4J miles from Wooden Bridge,
Arklow (pop. 5294 ; two small hotels). It is situated on the
sea-coast, and from its position would undoubtedly assume an
important position as a port but for the occurrence of a sand-bar,
similar to that which obstructed the LifFey. Owing to the
banks and oyster-beds which lie off the coast here, Arklow is an
important fishery station, and this industry gives employment
to one-half of the inhabitants. Near the sea are the Cordite
Works, one of the largest explosive factories in the kingdom. A
part of the town is exclusively the fishermen's quarter. A fine
statue of Father Michael Murphy, who fought in the rebellion of
1798, has been recently put up by the American League.
The first object which catches the visitor's attention, as he
nears the town from the direction of Wooden Bridge, is a part
70 EXCURSIONS FROM BRAY
of the old castle of the Ormondes, now reduced to a complete
ruin, containing in its interior the constabulary barracks. The
castle was built by the fourth Lord Butler of Ireland, Theobald
Fitzwalter.
It was formerly a place of strength and consequence, and the scene of
much bloodshed ; the castle was, of course, demolished by Cromwell (1649).
At Arklow a battle was fought in 1798 between the English
under General Needham and the rebels. The latter are believed
to have exceeded 31,000 in number, while the conqueror.s only
numbered 1500. The Irishmen afterwards retired to the hill at
Gorey.
Of the monastery nothing now remains.
COUNTY WEXFORD
At Wooden Bridge (8 miles from Rathdrum, and 34| from
Bray), as mentioned before, the line bends eastward through
pretty country to Arklow. Then continuing southwards within
a mile or two of the coast, we have pleasant undulating meadows
for the next 20 miles. The Hill of Tara — the Less — pops up on
the left at Inch, in county Wexford.
Ferns, though now sunk into insignificance, was once the
capital of the kingdom of Leinster and the archiepiscopal see of
the province. It was here that the traitor MacMorrogh held
court. A church is said to have been founded here in 598
either by St. Mogue or St. Aiden. The present Protestant
church stands on the site of the Cathedral ; and a monument,
incorrectly supposed to be that of the original founder, repre-
senting him in his ecclesiastical robes, in a recumbent position,
is in the church.
The ruins of an abbey, said to have been founded by Dermod
MacMorrogh, are closely adjacent to the church. The palace of
MacMorrogh was situated on the top of the hill, on the sides of
which the town now stands. Strougbow is supposed to have
fortified and otherwise strengthened the position of his father-in-
law. The remains of the Norman Castle (1176) include an
interesting tower. They stand not far from the station. It was
dismantled by the Parliamentary forces, under Sir Charles Coote,
in the civil war of 1641. MacMorrogh died at Ferns in May
1171, and is believed to have been interred in the abbey. Eight
miles south of Ferns we arrive at Enniscorthy.
Enniscorthyi (pop. 5458 ; Hotel: Portsmouth Arms), a thriv-
ing little town, on a high bank above the wide and sheltered
1 A pleasant drive may be taken from here to New Ross, 20 miles.
72 CO. WEXFORD
Slaney. The large warehouses and the lofty spire of the fine
Gothic church are prominent among its buildings. Two quays
have been erected by the proprietor, the Earl of Portsmouth.
The handsome Roman Catholic Church was built from the de-
signs of Pugiu, and there is also a Protestant Episcopal church
in the Early English style. Just outside the town is the red
and painfully extensive building of the Lunatic Asylum.
Overlooking the town, to the cast, is "Vinegar Hill," where
the insurgents encamped during the rebellion of 1798, and
whence they descended to attack the town and garrison. The
old castle, now converted into a dwelling-house, a massive square
pile with a round tower at each corner, owes its origin to Ray-
mond le Gros, and is one of the earliest military structures of
the Anglo-Norman invaders. The railway from Enniscorthy
keeps to the right bank of the river Slaney, and passes through
some picturesque country. At JIacmine Junction the line for
New Ross and Watprford diverges, and after passing Killurin we
notice Ferrycarrig Castle and obelisk, see p. 73. The wide river
narrows down to a neck at Ferrycarrig ; the best view of the
castle is after passing through the tunnel. Then we enter
Wexford (pop. 11,168; Hotels: White's, Imperial), the county
town. It is a collection of small and much-crowded houses,
threaded by narrow streets, and on the east side is lined by
wharves.
Wexford is picturesquely situated on the bank of the Slaney
where it enters Wexford Harbour, about 13,000 acres in extent,
and admirably adapted for commerce, except that a bar at its
mouth does not permit of the entrance of vessels of more than
200 tons burden. The town was at one time enclosed within
walls, the remains of whicli can still be traced. The most inter-
esting ruin in the place is that of the Abbey of St. Sepulchre
(corrupted into "Selskar"). The parish church stands on the
site of the Abbey choir, and the tower which stood at the inter-
section of the choir and nave forms one end ; beyond it, now
detached, is an interesting fragment of the original nave with an
arcade of {)ointed arches and some of the tracery in the west
window. Unfortunately it is a habit in Protestant communities
to keep not only their churches but their churchyards locked,
and tlie keys can only be had after some trouble and with the
penalty of an undesirable attendant. The Protestants might well
WEXFORD 73
imitate the Catholics in their treatment of what are after all
objects of national interest. The first treaty between the Irish
and English was signed in the church in 1169. Close by the
church in an adjoining yard is the tower of the old West Gate,
a picturesque object covered with ivy. The gate itself was taken
1795 ; it is described as having been one of the two most beautiful
town gates in Ireland, the other being that at New Ross. St.
Peter's College, for the education of Roman Catholic boys, is a
fine building in the Tudor Gothic style, the grounds of which
extend to about 15 acres. A Gothic church, by Pugin, adjoining
the college, is remarkable for its delicate spire and the rich
colours of its east windows. There are remains of other old
churches (St. Patrick's and St. Mary's), as well as the houses
■where Cromwell stayed in 1649 (Main Street), and in which the
brother of the poet Moore was born (Corn Market). A statue of
a pikemau by Oliver Sheppard, R.H.A., a very fine bronze
matching that at New Ross, stands in the "Bull Ring" in
memory of 1798.
The old bridge was over a narrow I'art of the river mouth. To this bridge
the rebels of 1798, then in possession of the town, brought their English and
Protestant prisoners, and flung them into the water. Mulgrave says "that
the prisoners were speared at the same moment from before and behind, and
then lifted up on pikes and thrown over the parapet of the bridge. These
are matters yet fresh in the memory of living men."
The flght at Wexford, which took place after the storming of Vinegar Hill
camp, near Enniscorthy, was brought to an end by General Lake, who re-
captured the town from the insurgents. It meant the suppression of the
revolt.
The barony of Forth, south of Wexford, up to about 70 years
ago was inhabited by a race of people very different from the
rest of Ireland in habits and appearance. It is believed that the
district was colonised by Strongbow with settlers from Wales.
The splendid bay is bridged by a fine wide bridge, a favourite
promenade with the inhabitants. There are unequalled facilities
for boating. A favourite short cycling run is across the bridge,
round by Ferrycarrig and back. The square keep of the castle
stands on the summit of a rock. This was the first castle built
by the English in Ireland. MacMorrogh having proceeded to
besiege Dublin, is recorded to have left Fitz-Stephen behind him,
who busied himself with the erection of a castle.
The translator of Giraldus Gambrensis says — " It was at first made but of
rods and wiffes, according to the manner in these dales, but since builded
^
74
CO. WEXFORD
^
^
5
\vith stone, and was the strongest fort then on those parts of the land, but
being a place not altogether sufficient for a prince, and yet it was thought
too good and strong for a subject, it was pulled down, defaced and razed, and
so dootli still remaine."
Facing it on a height across the river is a monument after the
model of an ancient Round Tower, jiut up in memory of the
county officers who fell in the Crimea.
About 3 miles from the town is Johnstown Castle, to the
gi'onnds of which visitors are freely admitted.
A short railway 12 miles in length connects Wexford with the
harbour at Rosslare, one of the best known landing-places for the
^ crossing fromkngland. En route we pass (8 miles) Rosslare itself,
a small seaside place.
?l
:^
.-^
I
FROM MACMINE JUNCTION TO WATERFORD
After Macmine Junction (through carriage from Dublin to
Waterford) we pass through a wild gorse-clad country, refreshing
in its openness and wide views.
At Palace East the G.S. and W. Railway line from Carlow
forms a junction ; and after another small station we come to
New Ross (pop. 5847 ; Hotels : Royal, central ; Globe, smaller),
situated in the west of the county, on the River Barrow,
about 29 miles from Wexford by rail. Some hold that the town
dates from the 6th century ; others that it was founded by a
daughter of Strongbow, not long before the 13th century monas-
tery near St. Mary's Church was built.
Tradition says that the name of the " Maiden Tower," once guarding
the walls, was a record of the large share taken by women in the building
of the fortifications; and tliat of "Three Bullet Gate," belonging to
one of the old entrances, was duo to Cromwell, who, as usual, made his mark
here. The town yielded in 1649 lo the Protector, who captured New Ross
and Kilkenny on his way from the massacre at Wexford to liis own miseries
at Waterford. In 1798, however. New Ross held its own with success against
the insurgents in the famous defence under General Johnson, when Lord
Mountjoy fell at the Three Bullet Gate.
A fine modern bronze of a pikeman stands at the junction of
the principal streets ; it was put up in 1907 in memory of 1798.
From New Ross it is only 7| miles by a charming road to
(0 Inistioge.
•\ Inistioge (pronounced "Inistaeg." Hotel: Cody's, comfortable and
>! popular), a veiy pretty village with a history reaching back to the 10th
^
INISTIOGE 75
century. Tlie bridge was built in 1761, and existing entries show the masons'
wages to have been 6d. a day. There is the stone tomb of an early prior in
the vestibule of the church and some quaint old stone carvings on the inner
side of the wall of the B.C. Church close by. Woodstock House grounds
are open on Thursdays on payment of 6d., but application must be made
three days beforehand.
It is a pleasant continuation of the run for a cyclist to go on to Thomas-
town (5J miles), thence Jerpoint Abbey, and Kells (13 miles), and so to
Kilkenny.
For Waterford, see Killarney section, p. 131.
76
KILLARNEY AND THE SOUTH OF IRELAND
BY
GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY
Killamey may be reached from Dublin in three ways : —
Vid Mallow Junction by railway direct.
Vid Cork, thence to Bantry, and on by car vid Glengariffe and Kenmare,
Prince of Wales Route (see Index).
Vid Cork, thence to Macroom and on by car vid Glengariffe.
I.— FROM DUBLIN TO CORK.
ON RIGHT KROM
° u
STATIONS, ETC.
p2
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
i,0
^E
DUBLIN.
165J
DubUn.
Kingsbridge Ter-
minus.
0
Royal Hospital of
Kii.MAiNHAM, on the
site of Priory of the
Knights Hospitaller.
163J
H
Locomotive Dep6t
atInchicore. Coke
ovens and work-
shops attached.
•StCHAPELIZOD 1 m.
162|
2
A village on the river
Liffey, of great anti-
Jamestown House.
quity. Here William
III. encamped in
1690, afterliis victory
on the Boyne.
Ballvfeumot, castle
161|
H
and church. The
latter dedicated to
St. Lawrence.
160i
Olondalkin.
The name of the vil-
lage is supposed to
be derived from a
church founded by
ii
Round tower seen
from the line.
Eighty -live feet in
height. One of the
most perfect in Ire-
laud.
St. Mochua, called
Cluain Dolcain. See
p. 92.
LucAN Cqdrch.
15SJ
"^ Lucan,
6J
^1 Lbizlip village
157i
IJ m. distant, once
7
1h 3 miles distant.
a fashionable spa
Tlie castle dates from
prettily situated on
the 12th century.
the Liffey near
the waterfall called
the Salmon Leap.
77
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Continued.
ON BIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
Castletown. The
flue seat of Mr.
ConoUy.
°®6 Celbridoe, 1 m.
distant. So named
from St. Bridgid's
Cbapel. AtCelbridge
Abbey Swift spent
much of his time
in the society of
Vanessa.
Castle Dillon.
155i
1533
152i
149|
STATIONS, ETC.
The demesne at one
time belonged to
General Sarsfield,
created Earl of Lucan
by James II. Lucan
is most conveniently
visited by the Mid-
land Great Western
line (Broadstone Sta-
tion), or by steam
Hazelhatcb and
Celbridge.
About 6 m. distant
is the magnificent
seat of the Duke of
Leinster, Carton.
A good collection of
paintings. Gardens
in Italian style. The
demesne can be seen
on week days, see
Maynooth.
Enterthecouuty Kil-
dare.
Straffan.
161
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
Lyons, the handsome
seat of Lord Clon-
curry, in front of
Lyons Hill, which
rises 657 feet.
OUOHTERARD, & Vil-
lage with the same
name as one in
the county Gal way.
OCQHTERAKD HiLL
is 438 feet high ; and
on its summit has the
remains of a round
tower.
Palmerstown Ho.
Seat of the Earl of
Mayo.
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Continued.
ON RIOUT FROM
DUBLIN.
Sherlockstown.
•gS Clane, 2i m.
distant. In the 6tli
century an abbey
was founded here.
Hill of Allen, 676
feet, is Been about
10 miles off, and is
recognised by the
tower which marks
site of Finn M 'Coul's
castle.
The CuBRAon,
famous in tlie annals
of liorse-racing, is
here intersocled. It
lies chiefly to the left
of the line (p. dS).
147J
147i
146i
145|
1403
13PJ
137 J
STATIONS, ETC.
Br. cr. Grand Canal.
The bridge is con-
structed of wood.
Sallins.
Br. cr. Grand Canal.
Line passes through
the town of Obers-
TOWN.
Br. cr. river Liffey,
whicVi here flows in a
somewhat northerly
direction. Bridge
built of timber, 21
feet high and 270 feet
long.
Newbridge.
The town, J m. to
the left, though
small, is a military
station, and has a
large cavalry bar-
racks. A neat stone
bridge, with five
arches, here crosses
thf I.ifl"ey. It is the
station for the Cur-
ragb.
18i
25i
27i
ON LEPr FEOJf
DUBLItf.
PcNCHESTON steeple ■
chase racecourse, 4
m. from Sallins.
Naa.s, 2 m. dist. g^
was the residence of
the Kings of Leinster,
long before the period'
of Strongbow.
Old Connell
Abbey, about a mile
and a half from New-
bridge station. Dedi-
cated in 1202 by the
founder, M. Fitz-
henry, to the Virgin
and St. David ; only a
few pieces of broken
wall, with two of the
windows.
KiLCULLEN, 5 m. ilgr
distant, was formerly
a town of .some conse-
quence, surrounded
by circular walls,
with seven entrances.
The ruins of these
walls exist, as also
remains of a monas-
tery, portions of a
round tower, and
carved crosses on the
top of a hill to the
south of the Liffey.
Curragh Camp and
racei'our.se. The race
slaiid is about 200
yards to left of the
railway.
79
FRO.M DUBLIN TO COnK—C'&ntiyiued.
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
STATIONfS, ETC.
Oj3
^1
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
lS5i
Lackagh Castle , 131
and Chubch. The
latter was rebuilt in
1835. The castle of
the Fitzgeralds is in
ruins. 12SJ
1271
Lea Church and
Castle. The Castle,
formerly a place of
great strength, was
built in 1260 by the
De Vescis. It con-
sisted of rude mate-
rials, built in a quad-
rangular shape, with
flanking bastions.
The Irish burned
it down in 1284.
The Fitzgeralds
Kildare.
The town of Kildare
is seen from the
station (p. 93).
Line enters Queen's
County. Area 424,852
acres. Pop. 64,883.
Monasterevan.
So called from an
abbey founded by
St. Eimhin or Evin
in the 7th century.
Br. cr. river Barrow
on viaduct of mal-
leable iron, about
500 feet in length.
Br. cr. branch
Grand Canal.
of
123i
Portarlington,
an ancient borough,
situated on the river
Barrow, with a
handsome Protestant
church, and large
Roman Catholic
chapel (p. 84).
37
40J
Branch to Water-^f"
ford, 82 m., passing
Carlow, 25J m., and
Kilkenny, 51 m.,
with intermediate
stations (p. 133).
This line also pro-
ceeds to Wexford,
69} m.
The round tower,
situated close to the
church, rises to a
height of 103 feet.
The demesne of
Moore Abbey, the
property of the Mar-
quis of Drogheda, is
well laid out, and
has been much im-
proved of late.
The right branch
goes to TULLAIIORE,
15J ; Athlone, 39i.
80
FROM DUBLIN TO CO'R^— Continued.
_ =
ON RIOHT FROM
DUBLIN.
c ^
STATIONS^ ETC.
2-°
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
and O'Moores subse-
quently lield it, and
in 1650 it was de-
stroyed by Crom-
well.
120J
44i
Dawson's Court,
now termed Erao
•®ll Mount Mellick
Park, the seat of the
6i miles distant,
Earls of Portarling-
long inhabited by
y
toD. One of the
Quakers, who carry
finest modern man- |
on manufactures of
sions in Ireland, situ-
woollen friezes and
ated in an extensive
tweeds. They main-
undulating demesne.
tain a school for the
education of the
1151
49
Branch on the left ;
hand to Kilkenny,
poor.
28A m. ; Waterfordj
57i.
114J
Maryborough,
50}
Ballyfin, at the
11 2i
the chief town of
52J
Rock of Ditnamape,
foot of the Slieve
Queen's County, " So
with castle ruins, |
Bloom Mountains.
called in honour of
8i m. ; TiMAiioE
The mansion is one
Mary Queen of Eng-
Round Towee, 8 m. |
of the finest modern
land, who reduced
residences in the
this part of the coun-
Italian style to be
try to shire-ground"
found in the country.
(p. 94).
109 J
Br. cr. Cloncourse
river.
55J
^S MOCN'TRATH, i
106}
MOUNTRATH and
591
Abbeyleix, a market
ni. distant. A post-
CASTLETOWN.
town, 6 ui. distant.
town, founded in the
Conoghor O'More
17th century by one
founded a Cistercian
of the Coole family.
monastery in the !
Gave the title of Earl
12th century. Queen
to the family until
Elizabeth granted it
the death of Sir
to the Earl of
Charles Coote's kins-
Ormonde.
man, the last Earl,
in 1802.
la Castletown, 2
104J
Br. cr. river Nore.
60
m. distant.
lOlj
03
AoHABOE House and
Abbey. The name
is derived from Ach-
atibof, or ox-field. In
99}
Br. cr. Kildellig
River.
65
the 6th century St.
Canice founded a
monastery here. He
wrote a life of St.
81
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Cojitimied.
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
Line (Limerick anu
Waterford Railway)
j to Koscrea, 10^ m.,
' Parsonstown, 22^,
' Nenagh, 29i, Bird-
I hill, 42J, and Lim-
erick, 52.
EoscREA, 8 m. dis-
tant (p. 95).
The Priort, seat of
Sir John Garden,
Bart. The demesne
originally belonged
to a Priory, tlie ruins
of which are still
extant.
STATIONS, ETC.
III
85J
83J
Ballybrophy.
BORRIS-IN-OSSORY, 2
in. distant. A fair
town. The Lords of
Ossory had a castle
for the defence of the
pass of Munster.
Line enters County
Tipperarj'.
So? i Br. cr. river Suir.
Templemore,
a neat, well - built
toivn, believed to
have sprung into
existence under the
Templars. It pos-
sesses in fantry bar-
racks (p. 86>
°SJl BORRISOLEIGH, 5
m. distant from
Templemore. It is
beautifully situated
at the base of the
Devil's Bit moun-
6
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
Columbkill, and died
at Aghaboe in 599 or
600. The present
church, which is a
modern structure,
stands upon the site
of a "great church"
built in 1234. The
octagonal belfry is
still standing. The
ancient church of the
monastery is 100 feet
long by 24 wide.
The windows are
pointed. The ruins
of the dormitories,
offices, and other
apartments, are still
visible. Dermot
MacGil Phadrig pil-
laged and Imrnt the
shrine of St. Can ice
and town of Aghaboe
in 1346.
Knockahaw Hill,
an isolated mass,
rises near the rail-
way to a height of
656 feet. The planta-
tions on the line form
part of the demesne
of LiSDUFF, the
property of Lord
Castletown.
LouGHMOE Castle,
in ruins, formerly the
seat of the famUy of
Purcells. As it now
stands, it consists of
a plain castellated
front with strong
square towers at each
end. The tower to
the right is supposed
82
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Continued.
i
ON RIGHT FROM
ii
STATIONS, ETC
si
S3
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
u o
fa -
DUBLIN.
tains, which are now
to be of great anti-
conspicuous from
1 quity, the other por- 1
tlie line. This range
tions having been
of hills derives its
! added about the 16th
name from a gap in
century.
their outline, which,
1
when seen from a
distance, appears
bitten out.
79|
85
Brittas Castle.
78
Thurles,
a town of some im-
portance on account
of its marliets, is
situated on tlio river
Suir, which divides
86}
rej
the town into two
equal parts. See p.
86.
88J ^ Cabra Castle.
1
75.^
89 Holy Cross Abbey,
Holy Cross is re-
founded in 1182 by
markable only for
! Donald O'Brian,
tlie proximity of the
< Kins of Limerick.
ruins of the Abbey,
and its fairs, held on
14th Jlay, 21th Sep-
tember, and 18th
October (p. 96).
The tourist from 1
Dublin, by leaving
the rail at Thurles,
may visit by car
Holycross Abbey (8
miles), thence to
Mount Cashel (13 ' 72i!
Bi'. cr. river Clo-
92
miles), and regain
diach. A tributary
the rail at Goold's
of the Suir.
Cross Station (18
miles).
69i
Goold's Cross and
95J
The Rook of
Cashel.
I Cashel, which rises |
Cashel, 8 lu. g^'
distant (p. 98).
boldly and abruptly
out of tlie plain, is
crowded by one of the
finest assemblages of
i-uinsin thekingdom.
DCNDRUM DeMKSNE,
66
98
on each side of the
line, tlie property of
Lord Ilawardcn, oc-
cupies somewhat
above 2400 English
65
Dundrum.
99f
acres. The Louse is
83
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
S o
STATIONS, ETC.
si
£ s
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
elegant and commo-
1 —
dious. It is in the
Grecian style. Tliere
is an extensive deer-
park.
i
Anacarthy Castle.
63|
101 j
"SJl Limerick, 21f
m
Limerick Junction.
107i I TippERARY, 3 m. dis-
m. distant. '
Here the lino from
1 tant. SS"
Dublin to Cork is
Caher, 16J m.
Ballykisteen Ho.
The seat of the Earl
intersected by the
Waterford and Lime-
rick line.
Clonmel, 271 ™'
of Derby. The man-
Carrick - ON - Suir,
sion is a modem
The fine range of the
41i m.
building, and the 1
Galtee mountains is
country round is rich
distinctly visible in
Waterford, 55J m.
and fertUe.
the distance, the
most prominent be-
ing Slieve-ua-muck.
Emly, now an unim-
54
°E6 Hospital, 3 m.
110
portant place. In the
distant. A market
5th century it be-
town,owhig its origin
came the see of St.
to the conimandery
Ailbhe, who founded
of Knights Hospi-
his church on the
taller established in
border of a lake
it in the reign of King
which once existed
John. Sir V. Brown,
here. Hence the
to whom the pro-
name Emly (Im-
perty was granted by
leach), "lake-
Queen Elizabeth,
marsh." In 1568
built a splendid
the see was con-
castle on the site of
joined with that of
the ancient hospital.
Cashel, and both
dioceses were at-
Line enters County
tached in 1833 to
Limerick.
the sees of Watci-
ford and Lismore.
Knocklong Hill
rises in the midst of
a rich country, i^"
"St LouoH GuR, 9
47J
E^nocklong.
117i
Galbally, 5 m. dis-
m. distant. A lake
tant ; near the foot
(partly drained)
of the Galtee moun-
with several islands.
tains. SS'
The largest of these
Near it are the re-
is connected with
mains of a monastery,
the shore by an artifi-
founded in 1204 for
cial neck, which was
grey friars, by a
formerly defended
member of the
by two strong
O'Brien family. It
towers. On this
1
was here that" Lord
84
FROM DUBLIN TO COV^K—Contimied.
ON RIGHT FROM
island, and in the
I neighbourhood of
I the shores of the
lake, are a series of
; prfhistoric remains,
scarcely surpassed
in interest by any in
the kingdom. There
are many circle?, a
castle, tuni'ilus; and
cave.
The Abbey of Kii.- |
MALLOCK, dedicated j
to St. Peter and
St. Paul, consists of
choir, nave, and tran- 1
sept. The choir is at I
I present used for |
1 divine service. A
' cylindrical belfry is '
' attached to the abbey,'
: and is by many sup-
posed to be a round
I tower.
Near the tower is a
! Dominican friary.
I Of the church, the
, remains of the choir,
; nave, transept, and
a tall steeple, are still
standing. The clois-
ters remain.
^i Charleville, 1
m. distant. It is a
small town, founded
in 1001 by the Earl of
j Orrery, and named in
honour of Charles II.
40i
STATIO.N'S, ETC.
Ellmallock.
Anciently Killocia
t and KlLLMOCHCAL-
LOG, derives its name
from an abbey found-
ed by St. Moehcallog
in the 7th century.
Line enters County
Cork.
il24*
35J
CharlevUle.
Junction for Lime-
rick 26^ m. I
Br. cr. river Awbeg
thrice.
129}
ON LEIT FROM
DUBLIN.
President Carew
summoned the Lords
of every county with-
in the province, to
meet him in 1001. In
the neighbourhood
is the beautiful glen
of Aherlow- about
eight miles in length ;
its northern bound-
ary is formed by the
Tipperary hills, and
its southern by the
Galtee mountains ris-
ing to a height of
3000 feet.
MlTCHELSTOWN, B^
18 m. distant. The
celebrated stalactite
caves of Jlitchels-
town are about seven
miles distant (p. 128).
KiLFiNANE, 8 m. dis-
tant. A small market
town, containing the
ruins of an ancient
castle attributed to
the Roches. Near it
are three strong forts,
an artificial cave, and
a rath. The latter,
kno^\•n as the
"Danes' Fort," con-
sists of a truncated
cone 130 feet high,
and 20 feet in diame-
ter at the top, sur-
rounded by 4 ram-
parts, which dimin-
ish gradually until
the outiT becomes
scarcely 10 feet high.
The ramparts are 20
feet apart, anil the
diameter of the outer-
most about 650 feet.
85
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— C'ontimted.
ON EIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
27}
"^ Cecilstown, 6
ra. distant. A small
market town
"SJl Branch to Kil-
LARNEY, on light, 41
MooRKE Abbey,
ruins.
STATIONS, ETC.
Buttevant.
Like Kilmallock,
Buttevant was once a
town of importance,
as may be interred
from the ruins which
j abound here. See p.
101.
DONEEAILE, ^' 5 m.
I distant. A market
and post town, giving
the title of Viscount
to the family of St.
Leger. It is situated
on the river Awbeg,
over which it has a
good bridge. The
seat of the St. Legers,
Doneraile Park, was j
formerly possessed '
I by Edmund Spenser. '
Castletownroche, '
: 8 m. distant £3" ]
from Buttevant ; but
more conveniently
reached by changing
at Mallow for the
Great Southern and
Western Railway.
The castle, once the
seat of the Eoches,
Lords of Fermoy, is
built on a rock, and
overlooks the river
p3
Mallow.
Mallow, situated on
the river Blackwater
(p. 102).
Br. cr. river Black-
water, j
The railway bridge '
over the Blackwater
is supported by ten I
1 arches.
137J
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
145
The Franciscan
Abbey of Butte-
vant was founded in
the reign of Edward
I. by David de Barry.
KlLCOLHIAN, B^ 6
m. distant. A ruined
castle to the north-
west of Doneraile. It
formerly belonged to
the Earls of Des-
mond, buc is chiefly
celebrated as the
residence of the poet
Spenser, who here
composedhis "Faery
Queene." In June
1586heobtainedfrom
the Crown a grant of
3028 acres out of tlie
forfeited estates of
the Earl of Desmond,
on condition that he
should reside on the
property ; and, much
against his will, he
took up his abode in
Kilcolman Castle.
The country around
is very romantic, and
well suited to the
taste of the most
fanciful of English
poets.
Mallow Castle, the
seat of Sir Denham
Norreys, Bart., pro-
prietor of the town.
Branch on left to
Fermoy, 1G| m., Lis-
more, 36 m., and
Waterford, 75 m.
' The country on the
left side becomes
very uninteresting. ,
86
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK— Continued.
1
ON RIOHT FROM i | -g
DUBLIN. jHO
STATIONS, ETC.
C.5
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
Blarney Castle is
about 1 m. distant
from tlie station of
the same name, and
is more conveniently
visited from Cork.
4|
0
Blarney, p. 117,
Cork, p. 108.
160
165J
At St. Anne's, 2 m.
west of Blarney
station, there is a
large Hydropathic
Establi-shment.
II.— FROM KILDARE TO WATERFORD, THROUGH
CARLOW AND KILKENNY.
ON RIGHT FROM
P u
^ P
ON LEFT FROM
^1
^U
KILDABE.
82
Elldare, p. 93.
0
KlLCULLEN, iKi" V^ I
m. distant.
67i
Athy.
143
A fair and post town !
on the river Li Hey. 1
The line between Kil-
A market town which
Here is a pretty
dare and Athy keeps
derives its name
church, on a hill,
in a direction some-
from an ancient ford
with a round tower,
what parallel with
where a Munster
abouthalfitsoriginal i
the boundary be-
chief Ae was slain in
height ; and various 1
tween the counties
battle.
sculptured stones.
Kildare and Queen's.
This town was for-
merly surrounded by
a wail.
61
Mageney,
near which is Kilkea
Castle, a residence
of the Duke of
Leinster, where the
" wizard Earl " of
Kildare once dwelt,
lie is Kaid to reside
with his followers,
undw thn great rath
of Mullaghmast, from
which, once in eeven
years, he issues forth
on a white charger,
and gallops round
the Curragh I
21
Castledermot, gW
3 m. dist., anciently
called Deseart Diar-
vuida, owes its ori-
gin to a monastery
rounded by Diarmud
aboutSOO. Tlie castle
was once the regal
residence of the royal
family nf Diarmud or
Derinot, but nothing
now remains to speak
of their splendour
except an old tower.
Bruce sacked the
town in 1316.
59
Lino enters tlie
County Carlow.
23
87
FROM KILDARE TO "W ATERFOED— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
at
STATIONS, ETC.
si
ON LEFT FROM
KILDARE.
H
£§
KILDARE.
KiLLESHIN, 3 m.,
57
Oarlow, p. 133.
25|
old church remark-
able for "iucised
Br. cr. river Barrow.
mouldings. Castle-
COME&, 16 m.
52
Milford.
30
"^ Royal Oak, 2
46
Bagenalstown.
36
HI. distant, formerly
Branch line for
well known as a post-
Borris, New Ross,
ing-station.
Wexford, and Bnnis-
corthy.
Old Leighlin, 2J m.
43
Line enters County
39
distant. The cathe-
Kilkenny.
dral is in good con-
dition, and since the
see was united to
that of Ferns has
Br. cr. river Barrow.
been used as a parish
The river is here the
church.
boundary between
the counties Carlow
and Kilkenny.
37f
Growran.
44J
Gores Bridge £^ 3
m. distant. A little
town on the river
Barrow, near which
are situated the ruins
of Bally-ellin castle.
31
Kilkenny, p. 184.
Enter upon Water-
ford and Kilkenny
Railway.
51
25
Bennet's Bridge.
The neighbourhood
is studded with gen-
tlemen's seats. In
the district are the
ruins of Ennisnag
and AunmauU Castles.
57
"^H Kells, 6 m. dis-
20
Thomastown.
02
Jerpoint Abbet, on
tant, a small village
containing the ex-
tensive remains of a
Apost town, founded
by Thomas Pitz-
anthony, a Norman
settler.
the Nore, founded
by Donald M'Gilli-
patrick, Prince of
castellated ecclesias-
Ossory. The abbey
tical building.
is now under the
care of the Royal
Historical Associa-
tion (p. 137).
151
66i
88
FROM KILDARE TO \\'ATERFORB— Continued.
ON RIGHT KROM
KILDARE.
£ -B STATIONS, ETC.
si
22
1
ON LEFT FROM
KILDARE.
1
In the distance are
the ruins of Graiuli-
son Castle, called
"Graney Castle."
7i ; Mullinavat.
i
4f Kilmacow.
0 Waterford, p. 131.
74J
m
82
Tory Hill becomes 1
prominent.
Greentille House.
Mullinabro House.
III.— LIMERICK JUNCTION TO ^yATERFORD BY
TIPPERARY, CLONMEL, AND CARRICK-ON-SUIR.
ON RIGHT FROM
gS STATIONS, ETC.
s 5
o'3
ON LEFT FROM
JUNCTION.
^«i
JUNCTION.
Line to Killarnev, 79
55 Limerick Junction.
0
Line to Dublin, 107
m., and Cork, 575 m-
Limerick and Water-
ford Railway.
m.
52J Tipperary.
2^1
Slie-ve - NA - Muck
rises 1215 feet; a
mountain ridge sepa-
The first station on
; the line is the old
county town, verj'
pleasantly situated
near the ba.se of the
TiPPERART. The
name is believed to
be derived from the
Celtic Tiohraid-
Arann, i.e. the well
of Ara.
rated from the Gal-
Slieve-na-muck or
tees by the Glen of
Tipperary hills. See
Aherlow.
, p. 127.
' Bansha.
Glen Aherlow ma v
47i Br. cr. river Aher-
7i^
be visited from this
low.
locality.
45.'.
H
^l Clooheen, 7 m.
38i Oaher, p. 127.
la
distant
Br. cr. river Suir.
The famous stalactite
caves of Mitchels-
town should bo
visited fnwn Calier,
from which they are
12im. distant by car.
89
FROM LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERYO'RD—C'ovfi7iued.
ON RIGHT FROM
JUNCTION.
STATIONS, ETC.
ill
"Wk Ballydonagh,
5 m. distaut.
The woollen manu-
facture is now ex-
tinct, but there
are tanneries and
breweries. It also
possesses an import-
ant butter marltet.
Laurence Sterne was
born here on the
24th November 1713. j
The tovra is believed j
to have been built !
before the Danish I
invasion.
The County Water
ford is separated
from the County
Wexford on the east
by the estuaries of
the Barrow and Suir
combined.
271
12J
Clonmel.
On the Suir.
8480.
Pop.
Eilsheelan.
Carrick-on-Suir.
Line leaves Tip-
perary County, and
enters Kilkenny.
Fiddown.
Dunkitt
is the station at
whicli the two lines
from Killfenny and
the Limerick Junc-
tion meet on their
way to Waterford,
two miles distant.
Waterford.
; The county town is
situated on the south
I siile of the river Suir,
I in the north-cast cor-
I ner of the county
! (p. 131).
ON LEFT FROM
JUNCTION.
27J Fethard, ISJ m.a®-
' distant from Calier,
and 8 m. from Clon- '
mel Station (p. 100).
During the remainder
of the journey the
line runs in a course
parallel witli the
river Suir, on the
Tipperary side. The
Suir separates Tip-
perary from the
County Waterford. |
24| Br. cr. river An ner. j 30J
33J ; Glenbower,
i distant.
42J
45i
BooLEY Mountains
to the left.
Carrick-on-Suir is
so named to distin-
guish it IVom a town
oil till' .SUaiinon. Tlie
town is joined to the
County Waterford by
a bridge over the
Suir. Tlie surround-
ing country is very
fertile.
90
I v.— BRANCH FROM MALLOW TO KILLARNEY.
ON RIGHT rnoM
PI
STATIONS, ETC.
ON LEFT FROU
MALLOW.
■^5
H
MALLOW.
41
Mallow, p. 102.
0
39
Dromaneen Castle
36i
ii
Gazabo Hill, a well-
ruius.
1
wooded conical hill,
with a ruin on the
summit.
Lombardstown.
6
Lombardstown
Wood and House.
31
Br. cr. Lombards-
tovm River.
10
Mount Hilary, 1287
feet in height.
29J
Kanturk.
Hi
^t KAirrrRK, 4 m.
This station is near
distant. The name
the village of Ban-
is from Cean-tuirc,
teer.
the hill of the boar.
The Maiaithy.s for-
merly lield tlie pro-
perty, but forfeited
it in 1641. In
Queen Elizabeth's
time MacDonough
Carthy cumnienced
For the next 20 miles
of the road the
scenery become.s
more barren and less
interesting, until it
approaches within 8
m. of Killarney.
the erection of the
Br. cr. river Black-
castle near this
water.
place. It is a paral-
lelogram 120 feet in
length by 80 in
breadth, flanked by
four square build-
ings. But being re-
presented to the
Council as a place
which might b'- madi;
dangerous to Govern-
ment, the building
was stopped.
21
Mlllstreet.
Near the town of
Millstrect is Dri-
.snANE Castle, the
neat of H. A. B.
Wallis, Esq. The de-
mesne is extensive.
The castlewas built in
20
Millstreet, 1 S^
mile distant, a small,
romantically situated
market town, stands
at tlie base of the
Cloragh Hill.
The Paps become
visible, as also Tore
91
BRANCH FROM MALLOW TO KILL AU'NEY —Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
MALLOW.
STATIONS, ETC.
si
^1
■■1
ON LEFT FROM
MALLOW.
71
1
0
1436 by Dermot Mac-
Carthy. In 1641 his
desceiidant Bouagli
forfeited the pro-
perty. Tlie man-
sion is quadrangular,
with a central tower,
and strong embat-
tled towera at the
angles.
Shinnagh.
Headford.
Killamey, p. 150.
26*
33J
40
41
mountain, and in the
distance the Reeks.
Flesk Castle.
92
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK.
This route, — the main line of the Great Southern and Western
Railway, — which leads through a very pleasant stretch of low-
land country, lies for 165 miles in a south - west direction.
The counties passed through are, generally speaking, well
cultivated. Abundance of sheep and of cattle crop the green
pastures, and give a look of ja'osperit}^ and wealth. The scenery
on both sides of the railway line alfords at times picturesque
views of mountain ranges, full rivers, and luxuriant jAaius.
The railway touches many towns of great antiquarian fame
and interest, runs through the world - celebrated Curragh of
Kildare, and skirts the Bog of Allen.
Clondalkin, 4^ miles from Dublin, possesses a fine round tower,
the nearest one to the metropolis. The tower, 85 feet high,
stands at a convenient distance from the railway, and is sur-
mounted by a conical top. It can be ascended from the
inside by a series of ladders. It possesses a singular pro-
jecting base nearly 13 feet in height, similar, according to
Petrie, to that at Roscarbery ; and both, in this respect,
resembled the castle of Bruuless in Brecknockshire. It h:i.s no
"dressings" to the apertures, and is considered one of the
earliest. The church of Clondalkin was founded by St. Mochua
in the 7th century, and was for some timp a bishop's see. There
is a handsome modern church and convent, and a monastery with
about twenty monks, who devote their lives to the education of
youth. Clondalkin has been remarkable for some centuries for
its paper-mills, and has at present tlie largest and most modern
in Ireland.
From Celbridge (Hazelhatch) Station, 10 J miles, a good road
goes direct north-west to Maynooth through the pretty village
of Celbridge, which is 1| mile from the station. It was here
that iliss Vanhomrigh lived, whom Dean Swift named "Van-
essa' ; and in Marh.y Abbe}', her residence, took place the well-
known scene between them. This lady bad written to the
Dean asking him whether the report of Lis marriage with
NAAS — NEWBRIDG
^REI ^ X 93
' ~-J- ^ ^
"Stella" was true. In reply, Swift hurried hither, and angrily
confronting Miss Vanhomrigh, dashed down the letter before V'
her, and went without a word. She died soon after. ^__
Naas (pop. 3833 ; Hotels : Royal, Railway, Commercial ; Naas K
Railway Station 20 miles from Dublin) is a thriving market - *
and fair town, with a military barracks, town hall, and neat ^
court - house. Naas was the seat of the Leinster kings. Of 4^
its still earlier greatness the Eath is the sole relic left. O^
Norman and later monasteries were built, but they have all^
disappeared. ^.
Tlie name Naas (pronounced Nase) is derived from " Nas, a fair or meet- f ;
ing-place."
It is 20i miles from Dublin by road, from the Curragh 8, Blessington 8, K
and less tban 15 from Kippure, the lofty northern bastion of the Wicklow J-
hiUs. C
t
tw_ t-i^\\^ ^
■1
TheHill OP Allen, 676 feet, is seen to the right from the
railway before reaching Newbridge Station. It is situated in
the Bog of Allen, originally of very great extent, but now partly
reclaimed.
Newbridge {Hotels: Albert, Crown) is the most convenient
station for the Curragh of Kildare (2J miles), one of the finest race-
courses in the kingdom, and "used as a race-course from the
earliest ages " {Joyce). It is also an important military camp, the
headquarters of the 7th Division. The plain of the Curragh
is the property of the Crown, and contains about 5000 acres of
beautiful green pasturage. Sir Wm. Temple about 1600 was the
means of obtaining a Government grant of £100 to be run for
annually on the Curragh race-course with the view of encouraging
the breed of Irish horses. It afforded parade ground for the
Volunteers in 1783, and for the United Irishmen in 1804. A
large number of mounds and earthworks are still to be seen
on it.
There is a Golf-Course at the Curragh, largely used by mem-
bers of the garrison and others.
The Curragh is "the NeMmiarket of Ireland, for here are the training-
stables for Punchestown, Fairyhouse, Leopardstown, Baldoyle," etc.
KiIdare.(pop. 1172 ; Kildare Hotel) is not the county town.
/ It is, however, of considerable historic interest. The convert
/ Bridget, in the 5th century, erected the Nunnery of St. Bridget,
s
\
■^
94 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK
Kildare's holy fame, iu whicli the nuns for seven hundred years
maintained the "inextinguishable fii'e," until Henry de Londres,
Archbishop of Dublin, extinguished it in 1220 ; it was afterwards
rekindled, but finally put out in the reign of Henry VIII. In
638, Aod Duhh, or Black Hugh, retired from the throne of Lein-
ster to take up his abode in the Augustinian Monastery, and
afterwards became Abbot and Bishop of Kildare, one of the few
instances on record of a crown and sceptre being resigned for a
mitre and crosier. The 13th century Cathedral has been care-
fully restored by Mr. Street. The unusual form of the nave
walls and the south transept deserve special notice. The new
top of the central tower is uncommon.
The Carmelite Abbey is situated on the south side of the
town. The original founder was Lord William de Vesci (1260) ;
the completion of it was left to Gerald Fitz-Maurice O'Faley. De
Vesci also founded, in 1290, an abbey for white friars. In the
churchyard, close by the cathedral, is a fine specimen of a, Round
Tower about 103 feet in height. The original conical top has
been removed, and the tower is now surmounted by a sort of
parapet or battlement. Miss Stokes places it among the earlier
buildings of the kind, and notes that the "dressings" of the
windows and doors are of the same stone as the rest ; but its date
has been hotly disputed,
Monasterevan (pop. about 1000) is so called from an abbey
founded by St. Eimhin, or Evin, in the 7th century. Moore
Abbey, on the site of the older establishment, is now the resi-
dence of the Moore family (Earl of Drogheda), which came to
Ireland in Elizabeth's reign.
Portarlington (Refreshment Rooms ; pop. 2021 ; Hotels :
Brown's ; Feiielly's) is an ancient borough situated on the river
Barrow. Lord Arlington, to whom the estate was granted by
Charles II., formed the port on the river, from which the town
was named Portarlington. It gives the title of Earl to the Dawson
family, the demesne of which is Emo Park. French Huguenots
settleil here at the close of the 16th century and built many fine
residences.
Maryborough ("Marrbro"; pop. 2809; Hotel: Hibernian),
so named in honour of Queen Mary, in whose reign the county
was formed, is the assize town. Between Maryborough and
Stradbally (east) is the "Rock of Dun-a-maise," which was for-
merly completely covered with line oak trees, but is now quite
ROSCREA 95
bare. Its name means "the fortress of Masg," who was one of
the ancestors of the Leinster people. This was the site of the
castle of MacMorrough, King of Leinster. It was frequently
taken by the Irish, and again recaptured by the English.
Dr. Led wick thus describes the spot. "The rock is accessible only on
the eastern side, which, in its improved state, was defended by a barbican.
From the barbican you advance to the gate of the lower ballium (312 feet
diameter). You then arrive at the gate of the upper ballium, which is placed
in a tower ; and from this begin the walls which divide the upper and lower
ballium. On the highest point was the keep, and the apartments for
officers."
This place was originally the royal residence of Laoisach Hy-
Moradh. The foundation of the fortress is ascribed to Laigseach,
early in the 3rd century. The Hy-Moradh family became united
with the Hy-Morraghs, and hence the fortress passed into the
royal family of Leinster. "With Eva, daughter of Dermot, it
passed into the hands of Strongbow ; and his daughter brought
it as a dowry to William Earl Marshall, who succeeded his father-
in-law as Earl of Pembroke. The castle, of which there are now
only slight remains, is ascribed to the latter occupier. In 1325
the hereditary proprietor, O'More, got possession, aud kept it
for four years ; and again, in the time of Edward III., his family
held it for two years. The town is somewhat overshadowed by
the presence of its terrible Lunatic Asylum.
From Ballylrophy (66| miles from Dublin) a branch line to
Limerick passes
Boscrea (pop. 2568 ; Hotel : Queen's). It is a very ancient
market- town, and was made in 620 into a bishopric, which in the
12th century was united to Killaloe. It is surrounded by a rich
tract at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains. The western
gable of the church, with its round-headed door, is probably part
of the 11th century abbey built on the foundation of that of St.
Cronan of the 7th century. The "Shrine of St. Cronan," a
broken cross with a carving of the Crucifixion, stands in the
churchyard. Near the church there is a Mound Tower, of similar
date to that at Kildare. In 1135 its summit was displaced by
lightning.
The Book of Dimma, now in Trinity College, Dublin (page 8), belonged to
the Abbey of Roscrea. Miss Stokes says : " This Dimma was believed to have
been the scribe mentioned in the Life of St. Cronan (a.d. (584) as employed by
96 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK
him to write a copy of the Gospels. ... It was Ibund by boys hunting
rabbits in the year 1789 among the rocks of Devil's Bit Mountain." It con-
tains a copy of the Gospels, and is covered with a metal " shrine," from wliich
the aforesaid youngsters abstracted the lapis-lazuli and silver.
One of the towers of the castle of King John still stands, as
also the castle erected by the Ormondes in the reign of Henry
VIII., and now the depot attached to the barracks. A ])ortion
of the Franciscan friary founded in 1490 is now part of the
Roman Catholic church.
Templemore (pop. 2433 ; Hotel : The Queen's Arms), a some-
what decayed town, has a large well-built new church. Adjoin-
ing the town is tlie Priory, the seat of Sir John C. Garden, Bart.,
one of the most beautiful in the county. The mansion is
modern, but the entrance is through a portion of an ancient
castle of the Knights Templar. The grounds, which are well
wooded, and adorned by a fine sheet of water, are open to the
public. On the southern side of this lake are the ruins of a
large square keep, while the northern shore is ornamented by a
portion of a monastic church, exhibiting in its western wall a
fine Gothic window.
The Devil s Bit Mountains, so called from a gap in the summit,
are for some miles conspicuous objects from the railway to the
north-west of Templemore. Primitive Plibernian geology told
how his grim JIajesty bit out a part of the ridge and deposited it
in the plain, afterwards to become the " Rock of Cashel."
Thurles (pop. 4511 ; Hotel: Hayes'), an ancient town, origin-
ally called Uurlas O'Fogarty. In the 10th century it was the
scene of the defeat of the Irish by the Danes. The original
castle is supposed to have formed part of the preceptory of the
Knights Templar. A second castle was afterwards built by
Jimcs Butler, one of whose descendants was created Viscount
Thurles. A well-preserved tower of this castle stands at the
bridge. The town is the seat of the Roman Catholic archdiocese
of Gashel. The Cathedral of St. Patrick was erected at a cost of
£45,000. There are a large Catholic College and an Ursuline
convent. In the college was held, in 1850, the Synod of Thurles,
composed of all the Roman Calholic bishops of Ireland.
Holy Cross Abbey is 4 miles from Thurles, near the line of
railway, and 9 from Cashel (only small inns in village),
There is much left of this interesting ruin. It is well worth
HOLY CROSS ABBEY 97
a visit, and, were it not so shut up amid the buildings of the
village, would bo more popular than it is. The best view of the
group is obtained on the opposite side of the river, with the
weir in the foreground.
" As a monastic ruin," Dr. Petrie writes, " the abbey of Holy
Gross ranks in popular esteem as one of the first, if not the very
first, in Ireland ... its architectural features are of remark-
able beauty."
Whilst approaching the east end you get the effect of the chief
and most uncommon feature of the building — the windows.
A late Norman church (1182) was built here by King O'Brien,
but beyond the north and south walls of the nave, pierced with
early arches, there is scarcely anything left of that building.
What we have now is the much later structure built upon the
Norman foundations.
Of its most striking ornaments — the varied windows — the
most beautiful is the east window of " reticulated " (net-work)
tracery. It is as fine as that at Reading, though, of course, not
to be compared with the more elaborate beauties of Westminster
cloisters. The west window is very effective, and reminds us of
the west window at Gal way ; it is also of later style. ^ The east
windows of the south chapel have very graceful tracery.
The visitor's eye will next be caught by the curiosity of the
church, the double colonnade dividing two arches in the south-
east chapel. Notice the twisted fluting on the shafts. Its use
is unknown.^
The interior of the church in its best day must have been
certainly very handsome, for, although the nave walls are bare
of any decoration, with early arches and square piers of the
simplest description, it is adorned with a hue west window ; and
moving farther east, beyond the centre tower, you have much
more elaborate work in the dioir, rich in carving, lit with a
finely traceried window, and ornate with sedilia and transept
chapels. It contains a late tomb (" perpendicular ") in the most
favoured position, right of the altar, but to an unknown occu-
pant. It may, peihaps, be that of a 15th century Countess of
Ormonde,
Both north and south transepts have eastern chapels, and
1 The double form of this "honeycomb" kind of tracery, and a rare in-
stance, is to be seen at Limerick (page 179).
2 Can this have beeu the shrine of the great relic of this church t
98 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK
from that on the north side a staircase leads up to the substantial
tower.
Of the cloisters and monastery buildings, where the Cistercian
brotherhood lived, there are only the scantiest remnants.
The title of its dedication is attributed to the possession of a piece of the
pretended true Cross, presented by Pope Paschal II. to Mnrtagh, monarch of
all Ireland, in the year 1110. This relic, set in gold and adorned with precious
stones, was preserved in the abbey until the Reformation, when it was saved
by the family of Ormonde. It is said to have been finally delivered to the
Roman Catholic hierarchy of this district.
The abbot, as Earl of Holy Cross, was a peer in parliament ;
he was, moreover, vicar-general of the Cistercian order in Ire-
land. Great multitudes, including many important persons,
made pilgrimages to the abbey in its prosperity, but at the
Dissolution it was granted, with all its valuable estates, to the
Earl of Ormonde at the annual rent of £15.
8^ miles beyond Thurles is Goold's Cross station. See pink page.
Cashel (pop. 3000 ; Hotels : Stewart's, Corcoran's), 6^ miles
from Goold's Cross, was once the residence of the kings of Munster.
A synod was held there by St. Patrick, who is said to have
founded the church. For a long time it was the seat of an
archbishopric, now united to that of Emly, Waterford, and Lis-
more. It is still the seat of a bishopric.
In the town is a very handsome modern cross to the memory
of Archbishop Croke.
The country round is a rich and extensive plain, out of
which the Rock of Cashel rises with great boldness and abrupt-
ness to the height of about 300 feet, and, but for the absence
of sea, might remind the imaginative of certain features of the
romantic situation of St. Michael's Mount. On its summit is a
magniiicent assemblage of ruins, which, "though roofless and
windowless and greatly shattered, still stand up in almost their
original height from their splendid platform." They consist of
a cathedral, Cormac's cha{)el, monastic buildings, a round tower,
and a great stone cross.
The most ancient are probably the Round Tower and Cormac's
Chapel.
The Cathedral. — This is in the early "Pointed" style, and
of later date than the above-mentioned chapel. Under the
OASHEL 99
tower are handsome and lofty arches, and a groined roof. Note
the good early arcading of the chancel, and the depressed tops
and curved bases of the clerestory lights.
In the year 1495 the turbulent Earl of Kildare, desiring to
destroy Archbishop Creagh, set fire to the cathedral. It is re-
corded that ' ' he readily confessed his guilt, and added ' that he
never would have done it, but that he thought the archbishop
was within at the time.' The candour and simplicity of his
confession convinced King Henry that he could not be capable
of the intrigues and duplicity with which he had been
charged ; and when the Bishop of Meath concluded the last
article of the impeachment with the words, ' You see all Ireland
cannot rule this gentleman,' the king instantly replied, 'Then
he shall rule all Ireland,' and forthwith appointed him to the
lord -lieutenancy of that kingdom." The cathedral is a con-
spicuous object for many miles round. Divine service continued
to be performed within it until the time of Archbishop Price,
who in 1752 removed the roof from the choir and converted the
whole into a ruin.
Connac's Chapel was probably built by Cormac M'Carthy,
King of Munster and Bishop of Cashel, about the year 1127
A.D. ; though its foundation, and the tomb it enshrines have
been generally assigned to Cormac MacCuUinain or Cormac
O'Cillen. the earlier dignitaries, of the 10th century. It is
probably the richest and most interesting, and certainly the
best preserved of all the ancient Eomanesque churches in Ire-
land. Both the doorways, with their elaborate mouldings and
uncommon tympanum-scMl-piuvQ, are fine specimens, and the use
of the rosette ornament should be noticed. But the chief
features are (1) the roof chambers or overcrofts, enclosed between
the barrel vaulting of both nave and chancel and the steeply-
pitched roof above. The same construction will be found in the
chapels at Kells and Glendalough, though these were built some
200 years before. (2) The two towers also are rare additions ;
their rude simplicity and girding bands may be compared to the
Saxon work of Monk Wearmouth tower (1075) in Durham. The
elaborate carving on the mouldings and walls within afi'ords
good specimens of Norman designs. Besides the richly-worked
sarcophagus, there is the tomi of Cormac, from which came the
fine bronze crozier, covered with " Limoges work," now in Dublin
100 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK
Museiun. In the latter museum may also be seen the silver
"paten" and early bell discovered in this chapel.
The Boimd Tower, between 80 and 90 feet in height, is con-
sidered by Miss Stokes to be earlier than those at Glendalough
and Kilkenny. Over the doorway is the early arch, and though
the stones are cut and cemented, the "dressings" of the
windows are of the same material as the walls. It will be
noticed that this, unlike the other buildings, is of sandstone.
In the same enclosure of this weird, dead city is the ancient
Cross. The stone below it is known as the coronation stone of
the Kings of Munster — a sort of " Lia Fail " of the south. On
the side a carving of concentric circles can be still traced, and
tradition has it that it was a "Druid's altar" ; it may be the
oldest stone-work in the place, and among the most ancient
carvings in Ireland.
Parts of the dormitory and other portions of the Monastic
Buildings remain near the Cathedral.
Of the two 13th century religious houses once standing in
the town below, ruins of one, the Dominican Priory, still exist.
At the bottom of the rock is the extensive ruin of
Here Abbey. — The tower and gables of this (Early Pointed)
church are seen about half mile to the right on leaving the
gate of the "Cashel" enclosure. It was originally a Bene-
dictine monastery, but in 1272 David MacCarvill, Archbishop ot
Cashel, being, as he told his mother, forewarned in a dream that
the black monks or Benedictines intended to cut off his head,
banished them, and supplied their places with monks of the
Cistercian order, for whom he founded Hore Abbey, and en
dowed it with the forfeited lands of the Benedictines.
Fetdaud is 10 miles from Cashel to the south-east, about 12
miles from Caher, and 8 from Clonmel. This town is remarkable
for the wouderful preservation of some of its walls and fortifica-
tions, erected in the time of King John. One of the entrances to
the town is through a castellated archway. The abbey, founded
early in the 14th century, has been restored, and is still used.
This is not to be confounded with another town of the same name
in Co. Wexford, p. 133.
Iieaving Goold's Cross (p. 96) the Main Line continnea
KJLMALLOCK— BUTTEVANT 101
through the woods near Duudrum, and beneath the gentle slopes
of the Tipperary hills to Limerick Junction, 107 miles from
Dublin, and 21| miles from Limerick (X.W.).
At Limerick Junction {Hotel : G. Southern), the line to Cork
is intersected by the Limerick and "Waterford line. (The Black-
water and Youghal may be conveniently visited from Mallow
Junction, or after proceeding to Cork.) Shortly after passing
Limerick Junction we obtain good views of the Galtee mountains
in the left-hand distance.
Kilmallock (124J miles) derives its name from an abbey
founded by St. Mochcallog in the 7th century. At an early
period it was a favourite place of residence of the nobility and
gentry, and was formerly surrounded by a great stone wall
fortified with a mound of earth, and having four imposing gate-
ways and towers. Though now practically in ruins, the build-
ings in the time of the Roundheads were extensive. The older
houses are still surrounded with battlements. The Abbey
Church and the Dominican Priory deserve a visit.
Lough Gv.r, 10 miles north of Kilmallock, is of great interest
to antiquarians, who will find the prehistoric remains well worth
inspection.
At Charleville (129 J miles ; Hotel : Imperial), another railway
junction for Limerick (distance 25 miles), we enter County Cork,
the largest of the shires of Ireland. The western surface of the
county is mountainous, that on the north and east is rich and
fertile. In the south-east the Silurian strata crop up, though old
red sandstone and mountain limestone prevail elsewhere. Copper
and coal ere found among its minerals. The chief crops are
wheat, oats, potatoes, etc. The climate is remarkably mild, but
also humid, especially in autumn and winter. The county is
well watered ; small lakes are numerous in it ; the rivers Lee and
Bandon hold their whole course through it, and the Blackwater,
along the greater part of its waterway, affords facilities for inland
navigation by barges as far as Cappoquin in Waterford.
Buttevant (137^) was once called Bothion, afterwards Kilna-
mullagh. "It giveth name unto that ancient citie which Kilne-
muUah cleped is of old " (Spenser). On a rock above the Awbeg is
Buttevant Castle. The town at one time contained numerous
houses and many mansions of the gentry, but already in Spenser's
102 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK
time the "ragged ruins breed great ruth and pittie." The Fran-
ciscan Abbey of Buttevant was founded in the reign of Edward I. by
David de Barry. Judging from the present ruins, it must have
been a house of great splendour. The east window should be
observed. Buttevant is now an important garrison town.
Five miles north-east of the station is Kilcolmak Castle,
the home of the poet Spenser, where he wrote a considerable
portion of the Faerie Queene. Doneraile Park, once the property
of Spenser, is about 6 miles south-east on the road to Fermoy,
Mallow (144^; Hotel: The Royal) is a town of 4542 in-
habitants, beautifully situated on the Blackwater, which is
crossed here by a fine viaduct of ten arches. Passengers for the
direct route to Killarney, by the Great Southern and Western
Railway, change at Mallow, which is also a junction for Fermoy,
Lismore, Dungarvon, and Waterford ; also for Limerick. The
town possesses a tepid mineral spring, formerly much frequented,
but now deserted. In the neighbourhood is Mallow Castle, the
seat of Sir Denham Norreys. On the site of the town formerly
stood Sliort Castle, and on the south of it another built by tha
Desmonds, but destroyed during the rebellion of 1641. At the
station there is a good refreshment-room, a fact unusual enough
on an Irish railway to be specially noted.
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108
CORK.
Hotels.— /mperiaZ, Pembroke Street ; Victoria, Patrick Street ; Moore's,
Morrison's Quay ; Great Southern ; Turner's, 65 George Street ; MetropoU
Temperance, King Street (large) ; Windsor, King Street (smaller).
Railway Stations. — Great Southern and Western, for Dublin and Kil-
lamey, Limerick, Queenstown, and Youghal, Glanmire Station ; Black-
rock and Passage (Queenstown by steamer), Albert Station ; Cork and
Bandon for Killarney (Prince of Wales route), Albert Quay Station ;
Cork and Macroom for Killarney, Cap\¥ell Station; "Muskerry," for
Blarney, Western Road Station.
The City of Cork had in 1891 a population of 96,891, and in
1901 the number had risen to 100,022. It may be reached by
steam-packets from London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Milford Haven,
Bristol, Plymouth, Cardiff, etc. ; and from Dublin direct by the
Great Southern and Western Railway (165| miles).
It is finely situated on the river Lee, which, after passing
the city, widens out into a beautiful bay, containing the Great
Island, on which is situated the town of Cove, now called Queens-
town. The city of Cork derives its name from corcaeh, signify-
ing "a marshy place," and still retains its original name in
Irish. It owes its existence to St. Finn Barr, who (7th century)
established his cell in the district known as Gill Abbey, about
the site where Queen's College now stands. For some centuries
disciples in great numbers flocked to receive instruction at the
institution which he founded.
In the 9th century Cork was frequently plundered by the
Danes, who in 1020 founded the nucleus of the present city,
on an island formed by the Lee, for the purposes of trade. At
the time of the English invasion it was the capital of Desmond
Macarthy, King of Munster, who, on the arrival of Henry II. in
1172, resigned to him the city and did him homage. The
English settlers were, however, held in great detestation by
the native Irish, and the city more than once passed into their
hands.
For receiving Perkin Warbeck, the impostor, with royal
104 CORK
honours in 1493, the Mayor of Cork was hanged and the city
lost its charter. The charter was restored in 1609. Holinshed,
the chronicler, writing about 1577, thus describes the state of
the city of Cork : —
" On the land side they are encumbered with evil neighbors— the Irish
outlaws, that they are fain to watch their gates hourlie, to keep them shut
at ser\'ice-tinie, and at meales, from sun to sun, nor suffer anie stranger to
enter the citie with his weapon, but the same to leave at a lodge appointed.
They walke out at seasons for recreation with power of men furnished.
They tru.st not the countrie adjoining, but match in wedlocks among them-
selves onlie, so that the whole city is wellnigh linked one to the other in
afflnitie."
During the Protectorate, Cork held out for Charles, but was
in 1649 surprised and taken. In 1690 it surrendered to Marl-
borough. It is a corporate city, being governed by a mayor,
aldermen, and councillors. It possesses a number of very
spacious streets, and there are many fine villas on the slopes
of the hill above the Lee, besides the large residences above the
Harbour. In Shears Street, near the Court House, Maclise first
saw the light of day, and Sheridan Knowles was born in the
adjoining James Street.
The "charming gaiety and frankness" of the southern Irish
ladies is proverbial. The author of the Irish Sketch Book was
quite carried away. " I never saw," he wrote, "in any country
such a general grace of manner and ladyhood" ; and in this
he did not speak only of the upper classes.
The lines of Spenser, who lived within 30 miles, at Kilcolman,
put the chief physical features of the city in a nutshell : —
" The spreading Lee that, like an island fayre,
Encloseth Corke with his divided floods."
The principal modern streets are in that portion of the town
known as the island, bounded almost completely by the river.
This island is connected with the shores on either side by
several bridges spanning the stream both on the south and on
the north.
Paknell Bridge is on the south branch of the Lee.
St. Patrick'.s Bridge crosses tlie northern branch of the river.
It occupies tlie site of the old bridge erected in 1798, which wa.s
partially destroyed by a flood in 1851, and it is broader than
any bridge over the Thames except that at Westminster.
CORK 106
Parliament Bridge is on the south side, leading into the
South Mall.
St. Patrick's Street, the pleasantest thoroughfare of the
city, sweeps westwards from St. Patrick's Bridge with a curve
almost as graceful as that of High Street, Oxford ; but the
buildings are quite unworthy of remark. At the upper end of
the street, as now also in Sackville Street, Dublin, is a statue to
Father Mathew.
The well-known " Apostle of Temperance" was a "Capuchin," devoted
to, and beloved by the poor folk of Cork. He started his great crusade
against drink in 1838, and extended his labours into England and America.
Under the great stress of his work and financial difficulties in 1856 he broke
down. His church was Trinity Church, near Parliament Bridge. Thackeray,
who gives an interesting sketch of him, says : — " With the state of the
country, of landlord, tenant, and peasantry, he seemed to be most curiously
and intimately acquainted. His knowledge of the people is prodigious, and
their confidence in him as great."
Grand Parade is a fine straight street, but has the same
fault as St. Patrick Street. In the centre there was formerly a wide
channel, which was arched in 1780. At the south end there
is a large monument, put up by Cork Young Ireland Society in 1906,
to commemorate the men who fought " in the wars of Ireland"
in 1798, 1803, '46, '67, to recover her "sovereign independence."
The South Mall runs at right angles vnth the Parade.
Though not the widest, it is one of the most important streets
in Cork, being occupied by professional men and the chief
merchants. About a hundred years ago the middle of this street
was a river, and the south side formed one side of a triangular
island, the other two sides being formed by Charlotte Quay and
Morrison Quay. The Bank of Ireland, the Stamp Office, and
the County Club House, the offices of the Provincial, the
National, the Munster, and the Hibernian Banks, are situated
in this street ; as also the Commercial Buildings, the Assembly
Rooms, the Protestant Hall, and the Cork Library.
Great George Street is the newest street in Cork ; beyond
Muskerry Railway Station it becomes the Western Road.
The Mardyke, once the promenade of the fashionables of
Cork, though now consigned to the tradespeople and shop-
keepers, runs parallel to Western Road. It is a mile in length,
is overshadowed by tall elm-trees, and is a favourite promenade.
The Cricket ground adjoins on the north side. To the left we
106 CORK
have a view of the Queen's College, a haudsome structure over
the southern fork of the river. On the southern bank of the
Lee is the city park and race-course, skirted by a picturesque
promenade, the Marina, forniing a beautiful avenue.
For the finest building in Cork, the Cathedral of St. Finn Barr
(Services, Sundays 11.30 a.m., 3.30 and 7 p.m.), leave St. Patrick
Street by the Parade (left), and at once turn right by St. George
Street to South Main Street ; at the far end of latter cross South
Gate Bridge, and turn to the right. The view obtained by this
approach, from the east, is the best of the building as a whole.
An old structure, occupying the site of the ancient building
of St. Finn Barr's foundation of the 7th century, was taken
down, and was succeeded by a new and rather mean cathedral
in 1735. The erection of the present building, due to the
exertions of Bishop Gregg, was finished in 1879.
Here the architect, Mr. W. Burgess, has succeeded in giving
Ireland one of the very best modern churches of the kingdom.
To compare small with great things, the group of spires is,
of course, inferior to that at Lichfield ; it is, I.owever, very
fine. The style is Early French, which "agrees with Early
English in general character."
Observe how much Mr. Burgess has employed the round or
' ' rose" window, and the ring-bands upon the smaller pillar shafts.
All the tliree spires are handsome, and the whiteness of the
stone adds an unusual brightness. The West Front has a most
pleasing effect, which gains richness from the gilded back-
ground with which the principal carvings are relieved. All the
carvings are good. Notice especially the figures round the West
Door ; the eleven figures of the central doorway represent the
"wise and foolish virgins" of the parable, and the "Bride-
groom " is in the centre, holding and wearing roses.
Three features of the Interior strike the visitor — the great
height, a characteristic French effect ; the marked use oi upright
lines, e8])ecially noticeable in the wall shafts sui)i)orting the
vaulting ; and the richness of the stone-work, due to the
varied colouring and, to some extent, to the ring bands of the
shafts.
The capitals of the pillars are remarkable for their French
character ; and the pulpit and font for the unusual additions of
brass texts. The interior of the Central Tower is a special
107
OROUND-PLAN O* 8r. FINN BABB CATHEDRAL.
Based on that ol' Dr. Caulfleld's Handbook to tht Cathedral ChMrch.
108 CORK
feature ; see the variety of the marbles used, and the brightness
lent by the inland gilt mosaic.
Round the apse, beyond the choir, runs an "ambulatory"' ;
and the stone colouring of the eastern end is very rich, the
prevailing blue of the walls being in contrast with the red
marbles of the nave aisles. The carefully- balanced "toning"
of the windows, the elaborate decoration of the Bishop's Throne,
and the mosaic pavement of the apse all deserve notice.
The entire decoration has been minutely worked out in
sketches by Mr. Burgess, who died soon after the erection of
the building.
Shandon Church (St. Ann's), built about 1725, is approached
from Pope's Quay, west of St. Patrick's Bridge, by the right-
hand turning just short of St. Mary's Church. It is remarkable
for its steeple, and the bells within it, which were rendered
famous by " Father Prout" in his lines —
" With deep affection and recollection
I often think of the Shandon beOs,
Whose sound so wild would, in days of childhood,
Fling round my cradle their magic spells —
On this I ponder, where'er I wander,
And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee ;
With thy bells of Shandon,
That sound so grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lee."
The tower — a queer, piebald affair, but a distinct feature of
the town — is of red stone on the north and east faces only ;
and is topped by a curious white turret of three stories, remind-
ing us of a similar effort at Heme Bay in Kent. The bells were
cast by Rudhall of Gloucester in the last century, at the same
foundry from which those of St. Finn Barr's cathedral came.
The place derived its name from the Shan-dun or "old
fort" near.
In the adjoining graveyard Father "Prout" (F. S. Mahony)
was buried in 1866. Though ordained, he never permanently
undertook clerical work, but was engaged in journalistic writing
in London. He died at Paris, having acted for many years as
Paris correspondent to the Glohc newspajier.
St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral is a lew minutes' walk
away to the north ; and on the side of the Shandon steps, leading
down to Roman Street and Malgrave Road, is the Green Coat School.
CORK 109
On Pope's Quay is St. Mary's Roman Catholic Church, a classic building
of flue proportions. The fagade consists of an Ionic portico, flanked by
square towers in tlie same style, and stands on a high platform approached
by a noble flight of steps. The interior is of the composite order, and is said
to be the best specimen of its kind in Ireland. The general design is that
of an ancient basilica. Its most remarkable features are the ornate Roman-
esque ceiling, lofty Corinthian pillars, and a Balduchino over the high altar.
At the west end of St. Patrick's Street is *S'<S'. Peter's and
Paul's Church (Roman Catholic), a spacious Gothic building
elaborately decorated, and containing the handsomest oak "con-
fessionals " in the country.
On the left hand from Parliament Bridge is the uncommon
and striking facade of Trinity Church, with white Gothic spire.
The interior is one of the best in the city. This is Father
Mathew's church (p. 105), and the quay has been named Father
Mathew's Quay in memory of him. On the opposite side of the
river, off George's Quay, is Dunbar Street, in which is St. Finn
Barr's Boman Catholic Church. This contains — under the high
altar — one of the sculptor Hogan's best works, ' ' The Dead Christ. "
For St. Nicholas' Church turn to right in Douglas Street
and along Abbey Street, a typical "back street"; and notice
the ancient grey tower on the right hand, a relic of an old city
church (the "batter" is uncommon). The handsome spire on
ahead is that of St. Nicholas', which is only worth visiting for
the sake of the iine piece of sculpture which it contains. This is
above Judge Dennis's tomb, and is the work of Bacon.
The best way to Queen's College is along Western Road.
Opposite the entrance (right) to Mardyke is the gateway with the
legend, "Where Finbar taught, let Munster learn."
The College, opened in 1849, occupies a picturesque site on
a rock rising fully 40 feet above the level of the southern branch
of the stream. Gill Abbey, founded in the 7th century by Gill
Ada, Bishop of Cork, stood near the site. The college build-
ings consist of three sides of a quadrangle, in the Tudor style of
architecture, and is very handsome. It is, indeed, probably the
finest building of its kind in Ireland, and was designed by Sir
William Deane. Thi.s, with the two colleges of Belfast and Gal-
way, was founded about the middle of the 19th century as an
incentive to better national education ; it is now attached to the
Royal University at Dublin. The library is good, and the
gardens should be seen.
110 CORK
The Court-House, with a good Corinthian portico, which
Macaulay considered " would do honour to Palladio," is in St.
George Street. The general effect of the building ia less spoilt by
its dome than that of the Four Courts of Dublin.
The Crawford Municipal Technical Institute, situated in
Emmet Place, is a handsome building of red brick and stone,
containing an old and a new portion ; the former coincides with
the old "Cork Institution," founded in 1803, and previous to
that was the Government Customs House. The additional wing
was erected by the late Mr. Crawford at a cost of £21,000, and
the new building was opened by the Prince of Wales, in 1885, as
the "Crawford Municipal School of Art." The picture galleries,
on the first floor, contain only a few works, the property of the
Corporation, and pictures are obtained on loan from South Kens-
ington and from private collections. In the sculpture gallery, on
the first floor, is a unique collection of casts presented to the city
by George IV., including casts of figures by the Marquis Canova,
a number of busts of celebrities, such as Father Prout, and groups
by Hogan. The School of Art has established a successful industry
of lace and crochet work, all designed and executed in the school.
In the Carnegie Free Library, near Parnell Bridge, the reference-
room is o])en from 10 to 10 ; news-room, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
It is strange that art should find so little encouragement in a
city that has always been famous for her sons in literature and
the fine arts ; "that has sent to England a number of literary men,
of reputation too ; " whose "citizens are the most book-loving men
that" the above-named critic "ever met" ; whose streets boast
only of the beauty of "the bright-eyed, wild, clever, eager faces"
of the Munster folk ; and that has given birth to no less a
master than Daniel Maclise. Sheridan Knowles, Hogan the
sculptor, Crofton Croker, Barry the painter. Dr. William
Maguire, and Father Francis Mahony were all men of Cork.
St. Joseph's Cemetery is about a mile distant from the town.
It was formerly the Botanic Garden, and was converted into a
cemetery by Father Mathew in 1830. The ground is well laid
out and planted. Among tlie finer specimens of sepulchral
architecture which it contains is a sarcophagus of Portland stone,
surmounted by a figure of an angel, by Hogan, in white Italian
marble.
To the south-west of the town is the Lough of Cork, a sheet
CORK 111
of water only interesting as the scene of one of Crofton Croker'a
fairy legends.
" He says that it was once a small fairy well, covered by a stone, concern-
ing which a tradition had been handed down from remote times, which
predicted, that if the stone which covered the well were not replaced every
morning after the dwellers in the valley had taken from it their daily supply
of water, a torrent would rush forth and inundate the valley, and drown all
the Inhabitants. This calamity was at length incurred by a certain princess,
who, neglecting the injunction, forgot to close the mouth of the well, and
caused the destruction of her father and his people."
An interest of a more practical kind is attached to the three reservoirs,
situated about 300 feet above the level of the city, which supply the inhabit-
ants with two and a half million gallons of fresh water from the river Lee.
These waterworks were constructed at a cost of £70,000, which, considering
their extensive character, may be considered as very moderate.
Cork is of considerable importance as a shipping port. It
possesses the largest butter market in the United Kingdom. The
export of pork and live stock is also very extensive. The dis-
tilleries are on a large scale, and the other industries include
woollen and linen manufactures, paper -making, tanning, and
copper and tin manufactures. The city returns two members to
Parliament.
lis
QUEENSTOWN AND THE HARBOUR OF CORK.
There are three ways of reaching Queenstown — (1) By G. S. and W. Railway,
from Glanniire Station ; time, about J hour ; fare, 2nd class. Is. (2) By
train from Albert Street Station to Monkstown, thence per steamer
to Queenstown (total about 50 mins.) ; fare, 3rd class, 8d. (3) The sail
from Merchant's Quay (nmr St. Patrick's Bridge) to Queenstown should
be preferred if the weather be fine and time not pressing. But the
railway runs for the most part close by the coast and affords flne
views.
The harbour trip is so interesting that the visitor who makes
most use of the steamers will be most repaid. The "Harbour"
proper begins just after passing Monkstown and Ruslibrook.
From Queenstown the steamer should be taken to Aghada, on
the east coast (page 115), and from thence the car to Cloyne
(page 116), Ballycottin, or Koches Point ; or, on the other hand,
frequent steamers to Crosshaven, on the west coast, are available.
Leaving St. Patrick's Bridge by steamer, the Custom House is
passed, near which the two streams of the Lee unite. The
Marina is well seen on the south, and on the north is the wooded
hill of Montenotte, dotted about with villas.
Special bathing tickets are issued from June to September to
Queenstown Baths, by G. S. and W., from Glanmire Station ;
fares, return, including bath. Is., 9d., or 6d. ; by 7.20 and
8.50 A..M. tiuins on week days, and 7.45 a.m. train on Sundays.
Cork Harbour. — "From its size, safety, scenery, and situa-
tion, Cork Harbour is admittedly regarded as one of the finest
in the world. . . . This noble expanse of water, divided into an
outer and inner harbour by the islands of Spike, Rocky, and
Uaulbowline, is to bo seen spreading its broad bosom in a sweep
of 7 miles, encircled bj' green hilLs, picturesquely dotted over
with white mansions and villages ; whilst conspicuous in the
background, formed by the Great Island, rises Queenstown in
tiers of terraces, right from the water's edge. Though its liis-
torical associations are mainly of a maritime character, on the
QUEENSTOWN 113
other hand, tliere is scarcely a type of Irish antiquities, Pagan
or Christian, that is not to be found in the immediate vicinity "
(T. Coleman, E. S. Ant. Handbook, 1898).
Blackrock Castle stands out conspicuously upon the promontory
of Rigmahon. It is supposed to be the place from which William
Penu embarked for America. The Ursuline convent at Blackrock
is one of the most important educational establishments for girls
in Ireland.
After Rochestown, Passage, about 6 miles from Cork, is the
next station on the line. It possesses docks and several large
warehouses.
Glenbrook, half a mile farther, used to be frequented as a
watering-place, but the hotel and baths are now closed.
Monkstown {Hotel: Imperial) is situated about a mile from
Passage, and beyond it the river widens out into a lake. The
castle, which is now a ruin, was built in 1636. Monkstown is
the headquarters of the Royal Munster Yacht Club, and on
certain days of the week the white- winged yachts are a beautiful
sight in the bay. From here one can continue in the train to
Crosshaven, or change to the steamer for Queenstown. In Monks-
town Bay is the fine old H.M.S. Emerald, used as a training-ship,
principally for Irish boys. She was at one time one of the best
fighting ships in the navy. The steamer makes a little round on
the way to Queenstown, calling at Ringaskiddy and Haulbowline.
Ringaskiddy (4 miles south-east) takes its name from the Skiddys,
"a Danish-descended family." For Haulbowline see next page.
Queenstown (pop. 9082 ; Hotels : The Queen's, Rob Roy,
Imperial, Columbia), on the south side of Great Island, was
long known as the "Cove of Cork," and received its present
appellation from the visit of Qu(3en Victoria in 1849. The town,
which is built on the face of a hill sloping steeply down to the
shore, and crowned by a magnificent grey granite Roman Catholic
cathedral, is a very striking sight seen from the bay. It is
frequented by invalids on account of the mildness and salubrity
of the climate. It is the ' ' Port of Call " for the steamers bearing
the American mails, and is famous for its Yacht Club, the ' ' Royal
Cork," founded 1720, the oldest club of the kind in the world.
S
114 QUEENSTOWN
Except the R. Yacht Squadron, this is the only chib of which the
commodore is entitled to fly the Union Jack. The admiral in
command of the Irish station has his residence at Queenstown.
St. Colman's Cathedral is a most beautiful specimen of Messrs. Pugin and
Ashlin's work, built in the " florid Gothic " style. The vertical mouldings,
the ribs of the wooden roof, the diaper carvings, and capitals all give it a
luxuriant richness unequalled in Ireland. Note the remarkable continuation
cf the nave walls, as screens, across the transepts ; and the unbroken ana
elaborate string -cotirse which engirdles the whole building. The rich arcading
and tracery of the apse, as well as the beautiful colouring of the east ivlndow,
together with the minute detail of the marble teredos, all combine to make
the eastern end striking in character.
Golf may be found at Queenstown Junction (6 miles) and
Rushbrooke, the western suburb of Queenstown.
Spike Island is the most conspicuous, and the largest of the
islands in the bay. It is occupied by Fort Westmoreland, which
affords accommodation for a considerable number of men. The
island was formerly used for a convict establishment, and many
important works were executed by the prisoners.
Haulbowline is a smaller island lying just opposite Queenstown.
It contains the naval dockyard, and is the depot for all ordnance
stores. Rocky Island is the smallest of the three islands, and
contains the powder magazine under adequate protection.
On leaving Queenstown for Crosshaven the steamer crosses the
magnificent harbour, which cannot be properly seen between
Monkstown and Queenstown, and at the entrance guarded by the
twin forts, Carlisle and Camden, turns into the mouth of the
Carrigaline river, where stands Crosshaven {Hotel). From the
hill there is a splendid view of Queenstown and the whole scenery
of the magnificent harbour, and even of the Atlantic. It is a
favourite place for pleasure parties. During the season there are
cheap excursions about 2 days a week from Cork. Carrigaline
has a historic record, and like most places in the neighbourhood,
can show tlie ruins of an old castle.
Trustworthy history passes over the burial on Great Island of
the prehistoric Nemcdh, who, it is said, came to these shores
with a band of colonists from the East, but the evidence that St.
Finnbar entered the harbour in the 6th century and founded hia
EXCURSIONS FROM CORK 116
monastery above Corcach is suflBciently good. To the latter,
some years later, came the fifty noble Romans in search of learn-
ing ; and, 300 years after, the Danish pirates sailed up among
the islands to plunder and to stay, with commerce following in
their wake. It is probably to these invaders that must be attri-
buted the origin of the ancient custom of "throwing the dart,"
with which the Mayor of Cork in each third year asserts his
rights over the harbour. Among the most interesting events of
local history were Drake's flight up the winding Carrigaline
river before the pursuing Spaniards, and his escape by hiding in
" Duke's Pool " ; the embarkation in 1618 of Raleigh upon that
last fatal voyage to the West Indies, whence he returned,
"broken in brain and heart, to die a traitor's death at AVhite-
hall " ; and the departure westward also of the Quaker founder
of Pennsylvania. It was from the same quay that the " Sirius "
set out in 1838 to make the first steam passage over the
Atlantic.
The Rev. Charles Wolfe, author of the lines on the burial of
Sir John Moore, beginning
" Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note,"
who died at Cove, of consumption, in 1823, lies interred in the
old graveyard of Clonmell in Great Island. At Roches Point
(4 miles south of Queenstown) there is a signal station for
notifying the passing of ships outward or homeward bound.
EXCURSIONS FROM CORK.
I. CORK TO ROSTELLAN AND CLOYNE.
There are so many steamers and so many possible methods of reaching the
points of interest in and about Queenstown Harbour' that the visitor is
advised to get a railway guide or to ask particulars at his hotel. He
will And in the summer ample means of transit.
This excursion is generally made by taking the steamer to
Aghada pier, 3| miles east of Queenstown ; and from thence by
long car to Rostellan, Cloyne, and Ballycotton, or to Roches Point.
Bostellan Castle was formerly the seat of the O'Briens,
Marquesses of Thomond, whose family titles, on the decease of
the Marquess in 1855, became extinct, except that of the Barony
116 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
of Inchiquin, which descended to Sir Lucius O'Brien, Bart.,
afterwards Lord Inchiquin. The mansion, beautifully situated
at the eastern end of the Cove of Cork, occupies the site of a
castle of the Fitzgeralds, tlie aucient seneschals of Imokilly. It
contains some old documents of historic interest. The demesne
contains a cromlech on the shore of Saleeu crock. Here also is
a silex mine, and clays from which some beautiful ' ' Rostellan
ware " has been manufactured. Visitors arc admitted, on applica-
tion, to the grounds, whicli will amply rej)ay a visit.
Near Castle Mary is another cromlech. "It is an immense
mass of limestone of an oblong shape, one end resting on the
ground, and the other supported by two huge upright stones."
The large stone is 15 feet long by about 8 broad, and 3 to 4
thick. ' ' Adjoining this great altar is a smaller one of a triangular
shape, and, like the other, supported by two uprights in an
inclined position. It is supposed that this lesser stone might
have been used for the purposes of common sacrifice, while the
greater altar was reserved for occasions of extraordinary solem-
nity."— Coyne.
Cloyne (5^ miles from Aghada) so named from its caves, is
situated in the valley of Imokilly, surrounded by hills, well-
wooded, and about a mile from Castle Mary. Thus near a
heathen altar a Christian church was erected in the 7th century
by the pious St. Colman, a disciple of St. Finn Barr. Those
portions of the 13th century Cathedral which the pitiless hands
of the 18th century "restorers" spared have lost much of their
interest owing to the painful additions of the white-washers. In
the north or "Fitzgerald " Transept, so called from the tomb of
Sir F. Fitzgerald (1613), is the fine figure of the learned Bishop
Berkeley.
The £amou8 author oi Principles of Human Knowledge, who held the see in
the time of George II., was bom at Dyseit, and attended the same school
in Kilkenny as Swift. He afterwards obtained a fellowship in Trinity College,
Dublin, became chaplain to the Earl of Peterborough on his embassy to
Italy, and was appointed in 1724 to the deanery of Derry. Bermuda was
visited by him some time after, for the purpose of establishing a college for
native teachers, an undertaking in which he lost a consid(!rable part of the
fortune which had been left to him by Esther Johnson, Swift's Stella.
Berkeley was consecrated Bishop of Cloyne in 1734, and died very suddenly
at Oxford in l7iB.
BLARNEY 117
lu the south or "Poore's' aisle notice the striking epitaph
which foretells the resurrection of "the reanimated body" of
Dr. Johnson's friend, Mrs. Piozzi (1804). The handsome east
mndoiv of " reticulated " tracery was put up in 1856.
In the churchyard adjoining the cathedral are the ruins of
a little building called "the Fire House." It is believed that
until the beginning of the 19th century this building contained
the remains of the founder. Near the church is a Bound Tower,
almost complete, and originally 92 feet high.
"On the night of the 10th of January a flash of lightning rent the conical
top, tumbled down the bell and three lofts, forced its way through one side
of the building, and drove the stones, which were admirably well joined and
locked into each other, through the roof of an adjoining stable."
Since then an embattlement has been added, raising the height
to 102 feet. Ballycotton, to which the cars go on, is a fishing
village and summer resort on the coast.
II. CORK TO BLARNEY.
Blarney can be reached by the Cork and Muskerry Railway (8^ miles)
from station near end of St. George's Street; also by G.S.W. Railway
(6 miles). Cycling (7 miles) shocking. A good \'iew is obtained on the way
of Carrigrohan Castle, standing picturesquely on a steep limestone rock
on the opposite bank. St. Anne's Hill Hydropathic Establishment is
pleasantly situated 2 miles west of the Blarney railway station, and 6
miles west of Cork. Car hire, 8s. return.
Blarney Castle (6d. each), the last of three on this site, was
built in the 15th century by Cormac M'Carthy. It consists now
of the massive donjon tower about 120 feet iu bight, and another
lower portion less substantial. It was besieged and taken by
the forces of Cromwell.
A stone in the castle of Blarney has long been endowed by
tradition with the power of conferring on those who kiss it a
remarkable faculty — a sweet persuasive eloquence that none may
resist. The real stone, which is said to have at one time borne
the inscription cormac mac carthy fortis mi fieri fecit, now
illegible, and had engraven on it a shamrock in high relief, is
about 8 feet from the top of the tower at its north-east angle, but
another more accessible has been substituted at a more con-
venient position for the less adventurous candidates. It is
118
EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
clasped with iron bars, and was displaced from its position by
a cannon-ball during the siege of the castle by Cromwell. The
general fame of the stone of Blarney dates from the publication
in 1799 of Millikin's song, the " Groves of Blarney." We quote
a sample of the song : —
' The groves of Blarney,
They look so charming,
Down by the purling
Of sweet silent streams.
Being bank'd with posies
That spontaneous grow there,
Planted in order
By the sweet rock close.
" 'Tis there's the daisy
And the sweet carnation.
The blooming pink.
And the rose so fair,
The dafl'odowndilly,
Likewise the lily.
All flowers that scent
The sweet fragrant air.'
The version published in the Reliques of Father Prout contains
the allusions to the " Stone."
' There is a stone there.
That whoever kisses,
Oh 1 he never misses
To grow eloquent.
'Tis he may clamber
To a lady's chaiubor.
Or become a member
Of Parliament.
" A clever Bpouter
He'll sure turn out, or
An out and outer,
To be let alone !
Don't hope to hinder him,
Or to bewilder him,
Sure he's a pilgrim
From the Blarney Stone.
The pleasure-grounds surrounding the castle, which were
formerly adorned with statues, grottoes, alcoves, bridges, and
KI.ARNEY CASTI.E.
BLARNEY 119
every description of rustic ornament, are still beautiful, although
since the time of Father Prout, when
"The muses shed a tear,
When the cruel auctioneer,
With his hammer in his hand, to sweet Blarney came,"
their beauty has been gradually diminishing ; the fine old trees
have been felled, and the statues of
"The heathen gods, And Nicodemns,
And nymphs so fair. All standing naked.
Bold Neptune, Plutarch, In the open air,"i
have vanished. The Rockclose, adjoining the castle, a few acres
in extent, is adorned with evergreens, and was at one time
embellished with statues erected by the Duke of Ormonde. In
it there is a Druidical altar. The
" gravel walks there
For speculation
And conversation "
are, however, in good order. The new Castle of Blarney, a
mansion built by Sir George Colthurst, who now owns the estate,
is surrounded with much fine timber. In 1825 Sir Walter Scott,
Mr. Lockhart, and Miss Edgeworth visited the castle.
There is a village of Blarney, with a small hotel, and a woollen
mill which produces the well-known "Blarney Tweeds." The
mill is worthy of a visit from the tourist.
Blarney Lake is a sweet piece of water, about a quarter of
a mile from the castle. A tradition remains that at certain
seasons a herd of white cows rises from the bosom of the lake
to graze among the rich pasture which clothes its banks.
Another story is, that the Earl of Clancarty, who forfeited the
castle at the Revolution, cast all his plate into a certain part ;
that ^^ three of the M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place
where they are deposited, any one of whom dying communicates
it to another of the family, and thus perpetuates the secret,
which is never to be revealed until a M'Carthy be again Lord
of Blarney." It is said that in the lake there is a particular kind
of red trout, which will not rise to the fly.
1 Milllkin's "Groves of Blarney."
EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
On the river Coman, within the pleasure-grounds, is a very ^' ^
y]^ fine cromlech, and a number of pillar-stones inscribed with ancient '. -^ "
Ogham characters. ^ 'T -^
III. CORK TO YOUGHAL.
By G. S. k W. Railway, 26} miles. Excursions from Cork in the season, at
noon or soon after, about three days a week.
This trip is usually taken in connection with the steamer
^ journey on the Blackwater, as there is nothing much to bring a
"i visitor to Youghal on its own account. If it is desired to return
N to Cork the same day, it may be necessary to adopt a circular
■^ route by Mallow Junction, and the direction taken will depend
V on the time of sailing from Cappoquin and Youghal. Generally
it will be found convenient to proceed first to Youghal. It should
.A ^' be remembered that the steamer does not begin to run until about
* ^ the end of June.
>^>^ Leaving Cork by Glanmire Station we pass between the
ri .pleasant gardens and woods on the high rocks, and the wide
^ " breezy mouth of the Lee, on the right, banked with large river
J * residences on the far side. Midleton (12^ m.) originated in a
ij f Cistercian abbey founded in the 12th century. It received its
,' first charter from Charles II. At Midleton College, founded in
1696, several persons of eminence have received their education,
including Curran and Egan. There is a large whisky distillery
at Midleton, and near it a ford is pointed out which Sir Walter
Raleigh held single-handed against Fitzgerald, seneschal of
Imokilly, and a numerous band of "wild Irish rebels," till his
own men came up. The town gives the title to the Brodrick
V family. Near Mogeely (17^ m.) is Castlemartyr, the demesne of
*% which belongs to the Earls of Shannon, and contains the ruins
<r" •■ of an old fortress and some interesting ecclesiastical remains.
^-^ ^ aS Youghal (pop. 5393 ; Hotels : Green Park, Devonshire Arms,
^^, ^ vin the town, and Atlantic) is 26f miles east of Cork on the bay of
"" '»j "-^ the same name, at the mouth of the river Blackwater. Com-
^ mercially, it has decayed somewhat, but an increasing number of
*^ visitors find here a clean and breezy "seaside," with an interest-
r ing and ancient port at its back, and with a pleasant sea-front of
some two miles in extent.
YOUGHAL 121
The most interesting building is the old Church. The early
arches of the nave may perhaps survive from the 13th century
building which was built by Richard Bennet on the site of an
older one. Bonnet's church was improved afterwards, and made
" collegiate " in 1464 ; but in 1579 the Earl of Desmond wrecked
it, leaving the chancel roofless, and to remain so for hundreds of
years. On the north wall of the nave is the ' ' cradle " of the muni-
cipal sword which is now to be seen in Lismore Castle ; and the
ancient font and oak pulpit should be observed. In the south
transept are the 17th century figures of Richard Bennet (who
built the church) and wife, rudely cut ; and, near it, a terrible
pile erected, like that still more hideous monstrosity in St.
Patrick's, Dublin, to commemorate R. Boyle, Earl of Cork, 1620
(observe the angels' hands). The chiu'ch has a fine old tower.
Close by is Sir Walter Raleigh's house. Myrtle Grove, where
he entertained Spenser, the poet, and in the adjoining garden —
perhaps under the existing yews — potatoes and tobacco first
"came to light" in Ireland. Raleigh was Mayor in 1588.
Of the southern or Franciscan Abbey of Youghal nothing is
left, but a gable and walls in the cemetery mark the position of
the Dominican Abbey of 1268. Youghal stream afi"ords good
bathing.
Youghal, a very ancient town, which received its first charter
from King John in 1209, derives its name from the Irish Eochaille,
meaning "yew wood," from the yew-trees which originally
clothed the hills. After the Anglo-Norman invasion it was
colonised by merchants from Bristol. The town was plundered
by the Earl of Desmond after he was proclaimed a traitor in 1579.
Sir Walter Raleigh, after repressing the rebellion, was rewarded
with a grant of land, including the domain now called Myrtle
Grove, where his house, a plain Elizabethan structure, still stands
near the church. The town opened its gates to Cromwell in
August 1649 ; here he made his headquarters for a time, and here
he embarked for England 29th May 1650. In 1690 Youghal
siirrendered to a small force from the army of William of Orange.
Some ruins of the Water Gate, through which he entered, are
still to be seen.
Ardmore (Harrco's Hotel), a watering-place on the Waterford
side of the river, about 9 miles east of Youghal, possesses
important ecclesiastical remains, including a round tower, a
122 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
cathedral, an oratory, and a holy well. The monastery and
oratory were founded by St. Declan, who died about the 5th
century and was buried at the "grave." Ardmore remained an
Episcopal see till tlie 12th century. Of the cathedral the chief
features are the 12th century nave, and early chancel entered by
a beautiful and "very early" arch. Note the stones marked
with Ogham inscriptions, and the arcading on the outer walls of
the building.
St. Declan's stone, a huge boulder with an arched hollow
underneath, is also supposed to possess a miraculous power
of healing. Pilgrims (on July 24) creep beneath it in the belief
that they will receive blessings. The Round Tower, 97 feet in
height, possesses some curious sculptures.
IV. THE BLAOKWATER.
The times of sailing; of the Blackwater steamer between Youghal and Cap-
poquin depend on the tide ; on several days in the month there is no sail-
ing. All particulars can be obtained from the Manager, Blackwater
Tourist Steamship Office, Youghal,
For the route from Cork to Youghal, see page 120. The road
distance from Youghal to Cappoquin is 18 miles.
The mouth of this river, one of the largest in Ireland, forms
the harbour of Youghal, which, though a fine and well sheltered
bay, is rendered inaccessible to very large vessels by a bar. The
trip up the river is made in a light steamer specially built for the
navigation. Starting from Youghal quay, we pass under the new
iron bridge 1768 feet in length, connecting the counties of Cork
and Waterford. On leaving the bridge we see on the left the
cliffs crowned by a ruined preceptory of the Knights Templar,
lihinerew Castle, founded by Raymond le Gros in 1183.
Immediately the hills rise at either side to a considerable
height, on one hand thickly clothed with firs, on the other,
green and dotted with cottages and tilled patches. Higher up
on the left, in one of the prettiest parts of the river, is the square
keep of Temple Michael, a ruined fortress of the Fitzgeralds.
On the islet of Molana, bejiaratcd from Temple Michael by an
inlet, are extensive ruins of the Abbey of Molanfides, founded
by St. Fachnan in 501. A statue of the founder is placed upon
a pedestal in the cloister, but it is of comjjaratively moderc
THE BLACK WATER 123
erection. The body of Raymond le Gros, a comrade of Strong-
bow, is said to have been buried in the abbey.
Passing by the angle of the stream in -which the fine mansion
of Ballinatray is situated, we get fine views along the bending
river. The river, flowing between a noble lawn on one bank and
rich woods on the other, widens out into a lake, called the
Broad of Clashmore, from the village of that name, while the
view forward reaches over miles of a cultivated slope terminat-
ing in a lofty heather-covered peak. From this spot it winds
through a succession of beauties.
The ruins of old Strancally Castle are seen on the left ; ivy-
covered and washed by the stream, they seem almost part of the
rough moss-grown rock on which they stand, directly over the
river. The water here is said to be of immense depth, and ac-
cessible by a subterraneous passage from the castle, known as
the Murdering Hole, because here, it was said, some cruel
Desmond, of days long gone by, used to dispose of the bodies of
his victims.
New Strancally Castle stands a short distance from its pre-
decessor. It is a battlemented Gothic structure embosomed in
lovely woods. Just beyond, a smaller river, called the Bride,
falls into the Blackwater. A little above it is Camphire, and
nearly opposite, on the right bank, Villierstown. Abont this
point we have the prettiest scenery on the excursion, and a bend
in the main stream reveals the Knockmealdown mountains.
Dromana Castle, the seat of H. Villiers Stuart, a couple of
miles farther on, is not in itself striking, but is charmingly
situated. It overlooks the river from an eminence of about 60 or
70 feet, and seems barely to peep through the magnificent woods
which fold it round, and clothe the whole river-side with beauty.
Just beneath, a sweet little tributary, called the Finisk, loses itself
in the Blackwater. From the grounds of the castle, which are
freely thrown open to visitors, an artistically conceived opening
in the trees carries the view up towards the mountains, or down
over the broad surface of the river. A small islet in front,
covered with willows and drooping ashes, forms a pretty fore-
ground to the picture of Dromana. Adjoining the site of the
modern building once stood the old castle of the Fitzgeralds.
It was the birthplace of Catherine, Countess of Desmond, who is
said to have reached the age of 140, and to have met her death
by falling from a cherry tree in Affane, near Dromana, where the
124 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
cherry brought by Sir Walter Raleigh from the Canary Islands
was first domesticated. It was said she had been climbing in
search of her favourite frnit.
Higher up on the left bank are the ancient castle of Tourin and
the modern structure of the same name ; the latter the seat of Sir
Richard Musgrave, by whose father, the late proprietor, the
capabilities of the Blackwater as a navigable river were first
tested.
We soon ajiproach Cappoquin {Hotel : Walsh's Commercial
and Family), which from a distance is decked in somewhat
fictitious charms. It lies in a beautiful situation, but on closer
acquaintance is likely to disappoint. It makes a convenient
starting-place for the Blackwater scenery, or Mount Melleray, to
which the car fare is 2s. return. The pleasant village of Lismore
is four miles west.
The Monastery of Mt. Melleray lies on the south slope of the
Knockmealdown mountains, about 4 miles from Cappoquin, and
on the east side of the direct road to Caher and Cashel {no cycling).
The views of the Knockmealdowns obtained from the road are
very good ; and, although ladies are not admitted farther than
the outer Guest House, all should include this short trip in their
programme, if only for the pleasure of the journey.
The interior oi the monastery is open to all gentlemen visitors,
casual or otherwise. Those who wish to make a protracted visit
are boarded and lodged in the Guest House within the enclosure.
Lady visitors are boarded in a house immediately outside the
monastic buildings, but they are lodged in a house about a quarter
of a mile from the monastery. Visitors may remain for a fort-
night.
The rules of the order (Trappists) are severely strict, being
exceeded only by the Carthusians in severity. The monks live
exclusively upon vegetable diet, use no stimulating drink ; in-
dulge in but six to seven hours' sleep ; labour incessantly, and
maintain per])etual silence. The last rule is relaxed in favour of
a few members for essential purposes, such as teaching in the
schools, transaction of necessary business, and recej'tion of visitors,
who are very numerous. The chief (and for some the only) meal
is about mid-day. In the Dining Hall is a portrait of the remark-
able Father Paul, whose history is interesting.
The ground upon which the monastery stands was a wild tract
of unreclaimed mountain rented to the community by the late
THE BLACKWATER 125
Sir Richard Keane of Cappoquin. The commuuity is now com-
posed of natives of Ireland.
Lismore (pop. 1583 ; Hotels: Devonshire Arms; Blackwater
Vale). The Devonshire Arms is put first as it is the largest, but
the visitor is advised to go to the Blackwater Vale, where, in
spite of a poor exterior, he will find a real old hostelry, a bright
garden, and reasonable charges.
The town derives its name from the preliistoric Celtic lis or f(jrt on the
east, and its history goes back to 588, when a bishop already watched over
its welfare. In the 7th century St. Carthagh (' Mocodi ') founded here "one
of the great public schools for which Ireland was at one time famous, and a
monastery which was (afterwards) considered a suitable place of retreat for
religious meditation for kings and princes." The town is said to have pos-
sessed as many as twenty churches at that time, and to have attracted even
king Alfred to its college. For many years it suifered hard under the deadly
hand of the cruel Dane ; but once more it rose to life again in the 12th
century, and soon after could boast of a castle. At the time of the Armada
the town was rebuilt, and ironworks were started by Richard Boyle.
In the 12th century its Castle {opeii on week-days) was
built on the site of St. Carthagh's College, and here for centuries
was the Bishop's Palace ; it is now one of the six residences of
the Duke of Devonshire, and is one of the most beautifully
situated mansions in Ireland ; indeed, no tourist has seen the
south of Ireland properly who has omitted the views from the
Flag Tower and the Bridge.
The entrance gateway is one of the older parts, and on the
left is Carlisle Tower ^ corresponding to King John's Toiver on the
other side. At the far corner (right) of the courtyard is the Flag
Tower, a splendid view-point over the Blackwater, and within the
"upper" courtyard (left) is the oldest tower, called "Raleigh's"
(but much earlier than his day). Modern additions were made by
Sir J. Paxton. The oldest wing is that on the north, or moat
side.
Within the entrance hall are the Corporation sword and mace
of Youghal, and the famous Lismore Crosier. This is dated 1101
by Miss Stokes, who says : — " Like the Cross of Cong, this relic
is one of the finest examples of the goldsmith's art that has been
found in Ireland." It " con.sists of a case of pale-coloured bronze
which enshrines an old oak stick, probably the original staff of
the founder of Lismore, St. Carthach," and "was the crosier of
Bishop Niall," referred to on the inscription — Pray for Niall, son
126 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK
of MacAeducain. This relic was found in a hole within an old
wall, together with the Book of Lismore.
The banqueting-hall is the finest room ; a few pictures hang
in the dining-room ; and from the celebrated window in the
drawing-room can bo seen that splendid view of the wooded
Blackwater at which even James the Second started back in
amazement.
The greater part of St. Mochuda's (St. Carthagh's or
Mocodi's) Cathedral is now modern. The church is easily-
recognised by its white spire. It contains some very ancient
sepulchral slabs, notably that of Colgan (850).
The philosopher Robert Boyle and the poet Congreve were
both born at Lismore; and the castle passed to Sir Walter Raleigh
in 1589 {see Mr. Westropps R.S.A.I. paper, 1897).
Lismore is delightfully situated, the woodland walks are
endless, and the roads for cycling star out in all directions. The
salmon-fishing in the Blackwater and its tributaries is let out by
the day, week, or season ; information may be obtained from the
fishery office, Lismore.
The beauties of the Blackwater by no means terminate at
Lismore, and if the tourist have leisure he will be rewarded by
a trip to Fermoy ; the road and the railway follow the river all
the way. From Fermoy he may visit Mitchelstown Caves, about
16 miles distant (page 1^8). He may go by rail to Mallow, and
thence either return to Cork or proceed to Killarney.
Fermoy (pop. C126 ; Hotels : Royal, Bridge) is an important
military station, with barracks for both infantry and cavalry,
capable of containing 3000 men. The town, which consists of
some good streets, owes much of its prosperity to the enterprise
of a Scotchman, the late Mr. Anderson of Cork, the mail-coach
and barracks contractor. The architectural features of the place
are chiefly the towers and spires of the churches and convents,
some of them very efl'ective. As you approach from the Bridge,
the chief religious and the largest buildings are seen high up
among the trees dominating the town which lies below. They
are — |from left to right — the Presentation convent, Loretto
convent, the College (with tower) and Roman Catholic Church.
There i.s free trout-fishing on the Blackwater, Araglin,
Funcheon and Bride ; salmon-fishing is preserved.
Mitchelstown, 11^ miles by rail (page 128), Mallow, 16| miles.
127
LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERFORD.
Tipperary (pop, 6281 ; Hotel: Dobbyn's), the town from
whence the county derives its name, is agreeably situated nearly
3 miles from the Limerick Junction Station, in an undulating
country at the base of Slieve-na-muck hills, a portion of the
Galtee range ; the name is from the Irish ' ' Tiohraid-Arann, the
well of Ara, the ancient territory in which it was situated.
The well . . . was situated in the main street, but it is now
closed up " {Joyce). Tipperary possesses a modern Roman
Catholic Church in the pointed style. New Tipperary, built
during the land war, lies on the fringe of the old town ; and its
sixty houses, many of them fine and solid structures, have proved
very welcome to the increasing population of the district. They
are in the hands of trustees and are kept in good repair. New
Tipperary is now practically part of the old town and shares its
rising prosperity. Employment is given to a large number of
hands in the creamery and in the soda-water factory. The water
supply of the town has been brought from one of the lakes of the
Galtees, a distance of 7 miles. There are many residences of the
nobility and gentry in the neighbourhood.
Cashel is 12^ miles north-east ; Caher, 13J miles south-east ;
the Aherlow river, 6| miles south-west.
Athassel, celebrated for its priory, is situated about a mile
from Golden Bridge, about 8 miles from Dundrum Station, 6^
from Cashel, and 9 from Tipperary. The priory was founded
about the year 1200, by William Fitz-Adelem de Burgo, for
canons regular of the Augustinian order. The choir is 44 feet
by 26, and the nave, supported by lateral aisles, was externally
117 feet in length. The finest remnant of the priory is its door-
way in the transition style of architecture. The founder, who
had been steward for Henry II., died in 1204, and was buried at
Athassel.
Caher (pop. 2058 ; Hotel : Glengall Arms), delightfully
situated on the banks of the fine river Suir, was a " Quaker town,"
and though now no longer deserving the name, has an appearance
of cleanness and comfort. The name Caher means fort, and un-
doubtedly at a very early period a stronghold occupied the site
of the Castle {open one day a week). This castle occupies
128 LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERFORD
a commanding position on the banks of the Suir, and is one of
the finest examples of the old fortresses in Ireland. In 1599 it
was taken by the Earl of Essex, and in 1650 by Cromwell.
There is a handsome mansion-house, and the charming park
attached to it occupies both banks of the river for about 2 miles
below the town. Caher is a convenient station for Mitchelstown
Caves (10 miles).
Mitchelstown {Hotel : Fitzgerald's) is high up among the hills.
It can be conveniently reached from Fermoy by the small branch
line of 12 miles. The town is neat, bare, and bracing in climate.
Its chief reputation rests, perhaps, on the unfortunate contretemps which
occurred here between the people and the police during the last Nationalist
disturbances. Crosses in the pavement mark the places where three men
fell under the barracks' fire.
There are two good views, not to be missed — from the station, and from
the front gate of the Protestant Church. The things to see are the "College,"
the castle, and the caves. The first, at the far end, is the best bit of the town,
and through it you pass to —
The Castle (grounds open dally, on application at the estate office at the
gate). Bear right from the Gardens, within. This, the property of the
Countess of Kingstown, is one of the most imposing mansions of this
country. Beyond its towers and battlements you get an excellent view of
the graceful Galtee Mountains.
The Caves are about lOJ miles north-east (good cars in Mitchelstown),
nearly midway between Mitchelstown and Caher. They are well worth a
visit ; but if you explore them, do not go in best clothes, and start early, as
the best parts cannot all be visited under 3 or 4 houra.
These caves, in the limestone valley between the Galtee and Kuockmealdown
mountains, were opened — probably for the first time in their existence— in
1835 by accident. It will be noticed that though apparently possessing only
the one outlet the air is always fresh.
[Tea proWded at the cottage. Guide's fee according to extent of time and
party.]
By a long descending and somewhat slimy passage we enter the Hwtse o/
Commons, where is the " organ " ; then a halt in what is generally the place of
much conversation, — the Lobby. In the next chamber, the House of Ixyrds,
nature has by no means appropriately placed the " Golden Fleece," a " Rasher
of Bacon," the largest stalactite called the "Tower of Babel," the "Diamond
Rock" and "Turkish Tent"; as well as "Her Majesty's Shawl," and the
" Woolsack." In the Cathedral is hanging the " Lord Cliancellor's Wig " ; and
the floor of this portion is the lowest of all, and perhaps 3.50 feet below the
road. The Four Courts is furnished with a " Queen's Bench " ; it is adorned
by "Queen Elizabeth's Ruffle," and not entirely overwhelmed by the
"Avalanche."
If time allows, there are many more wonders to be explored beyond,
notably the Kirigston Gallery.
CLONMEL 129
" In some of the chambers the massive pyramids of stalagmites are orna-
mented with successive tiers of crystallisation of the most fantastic forms,
and when a light is suddenly thrown on them, the beholder could easily
imagine himself in the palace of the Genii of the Mountain."
On no account omit to climb up the little hill which covers the cave and
obtain the splendid panorama of encircling hills. You ascend with the Galtees
behind ; at the top the Kuockmealdowns and Coomeragh Hills are a little to
the left, and almost facing ; and farther to the left, away eastward, the solitary
Slievenaman divides the valleys of the Anner (left) and the Suir (right).
Eleven miles south-east of Caher the railway passes through
Clonmel (iioji. 10,167 ; Hotels : Hearn's ; Ormonde), whose
gaol has, since 1889, beeu famous as the temporary residence in
that year of Mr. W. O'Brien, M.P.
Readers need not be reminded of the honourable member's spirited repudia-
tion of an unmentionable but necessary portion of the prison garb, for lack of
which he found himself unpleasantly " left in the cold. "
The names of Gladstone and Parnell streets smack of political
feeling, and the numerous mills and warehouses, no less than
the encircling array of fine residences in the neighbourhood, are
tangible proofs of prosperity.
Clonmel was the birthplace of the great humourist Sterne in
1713. It stands on both sides of the river Suir, and also occupies
Moire and Long Islands, which are connected by three bridges,
each of three arches.
In 1650 took place the memorable siege of Clonmel by
Cromwell, who, after having suffered a loss of 2000 men, succeeded
in compelling the garrison to capitulate, when he demolished
the castles and fortifications, of which now only the ruins remain.
The church of St. Mary, a beautiful Gothic structure, escaped
without damage. It has lately undergone extensive restoration,
though not in good taste. The steeple is octagonal, embattled,
and 84 feet in height. The Gothic tracery of the east window
has been much admired, being thought by some superior to that
of the windows of Holy Cross. The base of the steeple is square,
and seems to be of a much older date than any other portion of
the building. At the opposite side of the church is another
tower.
The churchyard is in a great measure encompassed by the old
city wall. At intervals on it are observable the remains of
square towers,
9
130 LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERFORD
Clonmel possesses extensive flour-mills, a brewery, tanneries,
and an important butter market. It was here that in 1817 Mr.
Bianconi first established his system of cheap and expeditious
car-travelling, which soon extended over the south and west of
Ireland — carrying, as one writer expresses it, " civilisation and
letters into some of the wildest haunts of the rudest races in
Erin's Isle ! "
Many fine walks are to be had in the neighbourhood of the
town, which is situated in the midst of much beautiful and
highly picturesque scenery. The favourite promenade is Fairy
Hill Road. Heywood affords a pleasant stroll, as also the
Wilderness and the Quay.
SUevenaman (2364 feet), is 9 miles to the N.E. of Clonmel.
Carrick-on-Suir (pop. 5406 ; Hotel : Bessborough Arms) is the
next station after Clonmel. This town is situated in County
Tipperary, but is joined to Carrickbeg by a bridge over the Suir,
the small portion of County Waterford across the river being
specially included in Tipperary for purposes of county administra-
tion ; it is also within a few minutes' walk of tlie County Kilkenny.
The castle and park adjoining belong to the Butler family. It
was formerly a walled town, and some of the wall still remains.
The woollen manufacture is now extinct, but there are linen and
flax mills. The town gives title of Earl to a branch of the Butler
family, as it did formerly to the Duke of Ormonde.
County Waterford is situated south of the counties of
Tipperary and Kilkenny, bounded on the west by Cork, and on
the south by St. George's Channel. The county is generally
mountainous, crossed as it is by Knockmealdown, Comeragh,
Monavullah, and other hill-vanges, but toward the east its surface
is low and marshy. The area amounts to 461,552 acres, of which
three-fourths are arable, and about 20,000 acres are laid out in
plantations.
181
WATERFORD.
Hotels. — Adelphi and Imperial, en the Mall ; Granville, on Quay.
Railway Stations. — The Great Southern and Western Railway and Dublin
and South-Eastern (Joint Station), at N. end of Bridge ; and Waterford
and Tramore, about 1 mile from Reginald's Tower.
Mail-Cars to Fethard, Lukeswdl, Tramore, and Passage.
Steamers.— For sailings to England, Scotland, Wales, etc., see pink pages.
Constant steamers to Cheekpoint, etc.
Golf at Tramore (page 132).
Pop. 26,769
This ancient city is of great historic interest, and is pleasantly
situated on the Suir, here spanned by the wooden bridge of 39
arches ; but though it possesses remains of ancient buildings
interesting to the archaeologist, it can boast of only one bit of
the picturesque, Reginald's Tower, standing at the corner of
the two main streets, the Quay and the Mall.
From the Bridge turn left along the quay toward The Mall.
After passing the Post OiSce take next turn farther on, Henrietta
Street, for the Cathedral, remarkable as standing on the site of
the Danish Church of Reginald II., which was an exact copy of
the Danish Crypt of Christ Church, Dublin, a fact stated by
Kingsley in Hereward the Wake, and proved correct by the
accidental discovery in 1894 that a plan of one church coincided
exactly, pier for pier, with the other. The original cathedral
was built in the 11th century, rebuilt 1779, burnt, restored
1818, and the interior redecorated and modernised in 1891. It
contains a monument to James Rice (1456) whereon he is depicted,
according to his wish, as he would look twelve months after
death ! Passing the Cathedral and going back to the Quay by a
small street farther on we see a ruin known as the "French
Church." This is the remains of the Holy Ghost Friary founded
by Hugh Purcell in 1240.
In Reginald's Tower there probably remain parts of the old fort of Reginald
the Ostman, who about the 10th or 11th century landed here and established
132 WATERFORD
one of the most important Danish settlements in the country. "Every
important seaport in Ireland owes its existence to those sturdy Vikings' sons. "
So says Kingsley, who in his Herexvard the Wake gives an interesting sketch
of the Danish King's "house of pine logs " on Waterford Quay, and the con-
temporary manners of the settlers. The latter monarch was the second
Reginald, the son of Sigtryg, who encouraged trade with France and Spain,
and whose "workmen coined money in the old round tower." A century
later Waterford proved itself powerless before the Normans and yielded to
Strongbow. Soon after Henry II. lauded here, and at the end of the 12th
century it was fortilied and attain honoured with a Mint. For successfully
resisting Perkin Warbeck the city received from Henry VII. the motto
" Intacta Manet," and from Henry VIII. a Sword of State. Against Cromwell
it was for some time equally successful, but surrendered to Ireton.
Interesting excursions may be made to Cheekpoint Hill
(7 miles), Dunmore (11^ miles), and Dunbrody Abbey, which
dates from the 12th centm-y.
To the south lies Tramore (pop. 1733 ; Hotels : Grand
Marine), accessible by railway from Waterford, 6 miles, standing
' on a bay between Great Newtown Head and Brownstown Head ;
/ and the beach, which is of considerable extent, is favourable for
/ bathing. There are also two concert halls, a race-course, golf-
/ links, and salt-water and Turkish baths.
The pleasantest excursion {good cycling) is to Gueat New-
town Head (4^ miles) and the LIetal Man. Newtown Cove is
i about li mile ; here turn loft under spreading trees, and at once
I right. Then along the cliff edge, passing the bathing-places,
you have a delightful " blow." Ahead, on the midmost of three
unpicturesque columns, is seen the unmistakable Jack Tar point-
l| ing seaward. The views here are very good ; notice the jagged
1 dark rock of the coast beneath.
\ Rabbit Burrows lies to the east of the town, and repays the
walk.
Dunmore {Hotel), 11 miles by car from Waterford, is a
picturesque little seaside village on the west side of Waterford
Harbour. It is frequented by bathers and by yachtsmen, has a
good stone pier, and is well sheltered from the weather. To the
south of the pier is a higli promontory called the Black Knob
(more commonly " the Shin-noon ") under which is Merlin's Cave,
of such a depth that a lantern is required to explore its recesses.
WATERFORD TO ROSSLARE.
This forms part of the direct route between England and
Killarney by the G.W.R. crossing between Fishguard and Ross-
WATERFORD TO ROSSLARE 133
lare, for particulars of which see pink pages. The trains come
through to Waterford from Mallow, passing Fermoy, Lismore,
Duiigarvan, etc., before reaching Waterford. At Dungarvan
(hotels) there is a fine harbour well seen as the train crosses it.
Shortly after the line turns inland and eventually reaches the
banks of the Suir at Kilmeaden. A fine view of this great tidal
river is obtained as the railway runs along beside it.
Waterford itself has been described on p. 131. On its way
eastward the train crosses Waterford harbour at a narrow neck
and thereafter strikes the head of Bannow Bay. Clonmin:s near
here was once an important town, and contains the remains of
many monasteries. It was probably one of the first settlements
of the Normans.
Pethard (6 miles from Cloumines ; 77m), an insignificant fisliing village,
stands on the west shore of Bannow Bay. Five miles north-east of it are the
remains of Tintern Abbey, founded in 1200 by the Earl of Pembroke, son-in-
law of Strongbow. The legend states that, being in great danger at sea, he
made a vow to found an abbey on the spot where he should land in safety.
His boat found shelter in Bannow Bay, and here he accordingly established
a monastery, wliich he peopled with monks from Tintern Abbey in Mon-
mouthshire. It is beautifully situated in the demesne of Tintem, which
was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Anthony Colelough, to whose family
it still belongs.
Along the whole of this route one is struck by the splendid
natural harbours of the coast. After Bridgetown we soon arrive
at Rosslare Harbour.
On the steamer I'oute there are four fine turbines, the St.
Patrick, St. David, St. George, and St. Andreiv, belonging to the
Great Western Railway of England ; these most comfortable
boats are fitted with every modern appliance, and the passage to
Fishguard is only 2| hours.
WATERFORD FROM DUBLIN.
The route as far as Kildare is described under Dublin to Cork
(page 92 sqq.). After changing at Kildare the first town of im-
portance is Athy (pronounced with accent on last syllable, as
"a thigh").
Athy (po]>. 3599 : Hotel : Leinster Arms) derives its name
from an ancient lord where a Munster chief, Ae, was slain in
battle. The town owes its origin to two monasteries founded in
the 18th century. In the centre of the town, overlooking the
river, is "White's Castle," built in the 16th century by the Earl
of Kildare, and now used as a barracks. There is also Woodstock
184 KILKENNY
Castle, above the town and on the river. Near the to\vii is the
ancient "Moat of decapitation," where 400 of the rulers of the
Pale were massacred by the Irish in the reign of Elizabeth. At
the Rath of Mullinavat, O'Connell held the last of his great
" Agitation " meetings. At the Moat of Ardscul, 4 miles from
the tovra, the Scots, under Edward Bruce, inflicted a heavy
defeat on the English under Raymond le Gros in 1315.
Carlow (pop. 6513 ; Hotels : The Royal Arms, Club-house,
Imperial), the county town, is favourably situated on the river
Barrow, Avhich is navigable by barges dowTi to Waterford. The
exchequer of tlie kingdom was established here in 1361 by the
Duke of Clarence, who, moreover, had the town fortified. In the
wars of the Protectorate the Castle was bombarded by the parlia-
mentary forces under Ireton : and was finally surrendered.
Of the 12th century castle nothing now remains save two corner
towers about 60 feet in height, and the connecting wall, the rest
having been blown up with gunpowder by a medical gentleman,
who, in 1814, contemplated converting it into a lunatic asylum.
Carlow contains a Roman Catholic cathedral noted for its
excessive decoration. It contains the celebrated monument to
Bishop Doyle by Hogan.
KILKENNY.
Hotels. — Club House; Imperial; Victoria.
Post-Office.— High Street. Pop. 10,609.
This ancient city, " Faire Kilkenny," as Spenser named it, is
well worth a visit, being unusually rich in historical associations
and archneological remains. It is situated on the Nore, here
crossed by two bridges, and the Bregen divides Kilkenny into
two parts. Each had formerly its own corporation ; but by the
JIunicipal Reform Act they were united. It abounds in quaint
unexpected corners, and many is the interesting vista down its
back streets.
Many parliaments were held at Kilkenny in the olden time.
That of 1367 ordained the punishment of death to any English-
man who married an Irishwoman. A rebel or Roman Catholic
ParlL-iment met hero in 1642, from which circumstance Kilkenny
is called the "City of the Confederation." The Parliament,
emboldened by assistance brought by the Pope's legate, refused
to make terms with the Lord Lieutenant, and in consequence the
city was besieged and taken by Cromwell in 1650.
KILKENNY CASTLE 135
Kilkenny Castle {o^cn Tues., Thurs., Sat., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
6d. each) was built in 1195, on the site of an older one erected by
Strongbow in 1172, and destroyed in the following year. Picture
Gallery only shown.
"The situation," writes Dr. Ledwich, "in a military view, was most
eligible ; the ground was originally a conoid, the elliptical side abrupt and
precipitous, with the river running rapidly at its base ; there the natural
rampart was faced with a wall of solid masonry 40 feet high ; the other
parts were defended by bastions, courtins, towers, and outworks, and on the
summit the castle was erected."
The castle is the residence of the Marquis of Ormonde. The
founder of this family, Theobald Walter, was one of the retinue
of King Henry IL, and received the appointment of chief-butler
of Ireland, from which office the family name of Boteler, Le
Botiller, or Butler, is derived. In 1319 James Butler, third Earl
of Ormonde, purchased the castle from the Pembroke family, and
with his descendants it has remained until the present day.
In March 1650, Cromwell, having invested the city, opened
his cannon upon the castle, and a breach was effected ; but the
besiegers were twice gallantly repulsed, and the breach quickly
repaired. Urged, however, by the mayor and townsmen, Sir
William Butler agreed to surrender the city, paying a ransom of
£2000 at short dates, and the soldiers marched out with all the
honours of war to two miles' distance from the town, where their
arms were laid down. On State occasions the magnificent service
of gold plate valued at one and a quarter millions, which was
presented to the first Duke by Charles I., is brought out. This,
and the tapestry for which the castle is famous, are not shown to
visitors. The Picture Gallery contains an excellent collection of
paintings by Vandyke, Lely, Holbein, and many of the great
masters.
St. Canice's Cathedral is the most interesting among the
many ecclesiastical remains in Kilkenny. ^
In the 12th century there was a considerable church here, and
its erection probably followed the removal to Kilkenny of the
seat of the See of Ossory, for the Bishop of Ossory had previously
lived at Aghadoe, where St. Canice had founded his monastery
1 Unlike the Roman Catholic cathedral, it is generally locked, and the
key must be sought at a cottage outside the south-east corner of the grave-
yard. The guide, however, is capable and well worth having, innumerable
points must certainly be missed without her assistance.
136 KILKENNY
in the 6th century. In the 13th century the church was
enlarged into a fine cathedral, but the latter soon attracted the
spoiler's hand ; and, after many vicissitudes, notably its partial
destruction by Cromwell, it was carefully restored in 1866 (Dean
Vignoles) by Sir Thomas Deane.
The Tower is interesting, and has good vaulting beneath it.
In the corner (left) of the north transept, otherwise known as the
Parish Church, is St. CMarain' s chair ; the Chapter House near
the south transept was originally the Lady Chapel.
The Monuments are particularly interesting and numerous, and
cannot be understood without the local guide, who will point out
items, from the fashion of a lady's hair 800 years ago, to the
representation of the cock which crowed at Peter's denial. The
famous Fitzgerald monument to the eighth Earl and his Amazonian
Countess is in the south transept. All the monuments are in the
home quarried fine black Kilkenny marble. Three ancient features,
viz. the reliquary before the west window, only one of its kind in
Ireland ; the beautiful groining beneath the tower ; and the 13th
century moulding round the chancel windows, must not be
missed. The ancient bishop's chair is in the north transept.
The modern carving on the stalls is good, as is also the beautiful
pavement of various Irish marbles within the communion rails.
Outside the south transept is a Bonnd Tower, of late date, with
door and window facings of a finer stone than the walls.
Among other ancient buildings the chief are the Black Friars,
the Franciscan Priory, St. John's Church, with its chapel of
beautiful windows called "the Lantern of Ireland," and the
College, or Grammar School.
Kilkenny School, called the "Eton of Ireland," enjoj'ed a
high reputation, and counted among its scholars the famous Dean
Swift, who entered at the tender age of six. "Two of Swift's
contemporaries were educated there. Congreve, two years his
junior, was one of his schoolfellows. Fourteen years after Swift
had left the school it was entered by George Berkeley, destined
to win a fame of the purest and highest kind,' and to come into
a strange relationship to Swift. It would be vain to ask what
credit may be claimed by Kilkenny School for thus 'producing'
the greatest satirist, the most brilliant writer of comedies, and the
subtlest metaphysician in the English language " {Leslie Stephen).
1 See Cloyne, p. 116.
JERPOINT ABBEY 137
At Kilkenny several trials for witchcraft have taken place, the
most remarkable being that of Lady Alice Kettol in 1325.
Twelve miles to the north is Castlecomer, which gives its name
to the coalfield of that district ; and to the carboniferous lime-
stone of this county the city of St. Canice lends the name of
"Kilkenny marble." The limestone caverns, known as "the
Caves of Dunmore," are near liie Castlecomer road, 7 miles north
of Kilkenny.
Freshford Chiirch is 10 miles north-west of Kilkenny, and of
much antiquarian interest, chiefly on account of its unusually fine
Romanesque doorway. The proportions of its form, and the
beautiful and elaborate mouldings and carvings, give it a high
place among 11th and 12th century work. Miss Stokes, in
commenting on the importation of continental art into Ireland,
notes that the Byzantine Painters' Guide directed that in
pictures of the Crucifixion, near the Virgin stands St. John, "in
sorrow, his cheek resting on his hand " — ^just as on St. Moedoc's
shrine, and "the sculptured panels of the doorway of the old
church at Freshford."
Over the doorway are two bands, inscribed in Irish characters, as follows :
" A prayer for Niam, daughter of Cove, and Mathghainain O Chairineic, by
whom was made this church," and "A prayer for QiUa Mocholmoe O Cen-
cucain who made it."
Jerpoint Abbey, H °^ile from Thomastown Station on the
Waterford and Kilkenny Railway, and 12 miles south of Kil-
kenny, is a ruined Cistercian house of much interest. "In
wealth, honours, and architectural splendours," writes N. P.
Willis, ' ' Jerpoint was exceeded by no other monastic institution
in Ireland. The demesne lands extended over 1500 acres of fertile
ground, and the buildings included the abbey church and tower,
a refectory, dormitory, and ofiices, which occupied an area of 3
acres. The whole of this was granted at the Dissolution to
Thomas, Earl of Ormonde." It was founded about the 11th
or 12th centuries, and the older parts, the transepts and
chancel, are of the Romanesque order, the rest being of varying
later periods. The central tower is massive and of remarkable
character. "The battlements which crown the tower" are stated
by Dr. James Fergusson to be "identical with many found in the
north of Italy, but very unlike anything either in England or
Scotland, and give a foreign look to the whole." The door is a
138 CORK TO KILLARNEY
curiosity, and the Early English cloisters, as well as the monu-
ments, should be noticed. The place is said to have been sacked
both by "Silken Thomas" and Cromwell.
The tourist who is desirous of exploring the varied scenery
with which the banks of the river Nore abound from Kilkenny to
its junction with the Barrow, near New Ross, will find Thomas-
town (pop. 909 ; Hotels: Walsh's, Nore View (temp.)) convenient.
Kells, also reached from Thomastown Station, from which
it is 7^ miles distant, is an ancient city, founded by a follower
of Earl Strongbow's, called Geoffrey Fitz-Robert, his object being
to provide a garrison for the subjugation of the Tipperary Irish.
Like most of the other invaders, he sought peace to his conscience
by founding a religious house, which gradually became a place of
increasing importance until dissolved in the reign of Henry VIII.
The Prior was a spiritual lord in Parliament. Portions of the
ruins, comprising the remains of towers and halls, and the
cloisters, still attract some attention to the place. The town of
Kells in the county of Meath, where a monastery was founded by
the famous St. Columbkille, is described page 47.
Waterford (page 131).
TO KILLARNEY.
The two main routes from England to Ireland (midland and
south) are vid Kingstown (Dublin) and Rosslare. Either route is
met by a service of fast trains to Mallow on the G. S. and W.
Railway of Ireland. Here there is choice of (1) going on direct to
Killarney ; or (2) going by Cork, Bantry, and Glengariffe. As the
journey (2) vid Glengariffe embraces scenery unsurpassed in charm
even by Killarney itself, all who are not greatly pressed for time
are strongly advised to adopt the latter route. It should also be
kept in mind that the views are more striking, vid the Glengariffe
route, in journeying towards than from Killarney. At Cork a
night may be spent, and we must change stations to continue on
the Cork and Bajidon line. The coach drive from Glengariffe vid
Kenmare to Killarney goes through scenery resembling the
Alpine passes in grandeur. Single fares, Cork to Killarney, vid
Glengariffe, 1st 2 Is., 3rd 168. The route (3) by Macroom is
described on page 148.
139
PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY.
By the Cork and Bandon Railway (Albert Quay Station).
For many of the places reached by this most enterprising railway com-
bined hotel and rail tickets may be obtained. Get the Company's tourist
programme.
Miles.
Miles.
Interm. Tot.
Interm. Tot.
Cork to Bandon (rail)
20
Glengariffe (road) .
. Ill 69i
Dunmanway (rail) .
. 17 37i
Kenmare (road)
. 17| 87i
Drimoleague (rail) .
8i 4t)
Killarney (road)
. 20 107i
Bantry (rail) .
. Ill 57|
The route obtained its name in 1858 when the Prince of Wales travelled ovei
It. It will be necessary to stay a night at Glengariffe.
Shortly after leaving Cork the railway is carried over a deep
glen by the Chetwynd Viaduct, 120 feet in length and 100 feet
in height. In crossing, a good view is obtained of the city we
have left, and of the beautiful valley to the west. At Waterfall
(6J miles) the distant Kerry mountains are seen bounding the
western horizon. A mile beyond Waterfall Station we pas.s, on
the right, the ruin of Ballymacadane Abbey, founded about 1450
for Augustine nuns, and near it an old fort attributed to the
Danes. Emerging from a tunnel about 1200 yards in length,
under Mount Mary, we reach Ballinhassig (10 miles). (From the
station may be seen the aerial ropeway — the only one in Ireland —
which conveys the bricks from the Ballinphelic works, 3J miles
distant, to the station.) The village about a mile to the east was,
in 1600, the scene of a battle between the English and the followers
of Florence M'Carthy. At Kinsale Junction (ISJ miles) a branch
(of 10^ miles) passes south to Kinsale.
Kinsale (pop. 4250 ; Hotels : Kinsale Arms, Sea View), a seaport and im-
portant fishing station, Is picturesquely situated on the acclivity of Compass
Hill, on a fine natural harbour forming the estuary of the Bandon. The Danes
are said to have attacked first this point of the coast ; the Anglo-Norman
invaders quickly saw its advantages, and in Edward II. 's reign it was already
an important sea town. The castle of the De Courcys stood here in the
twelfth century. In one respect that family is of unique interest, for the
privilege of remaining uncovered in presence of the monarch, a privilege
last exercised at the court of George IV., was granted to a De Courcy by
King John for that knight's offer to stand as single-combat champion of
England during the King's quarrel with France. The most important
event in Kinsale's history, however, was the seizure of the town in 1601 by
the Spaniards under Juan D'Aguila, and the tough two-months' task he pro-
vided for the English before yielding to Mountjoy. For the unusual
manner in which the English soldiers celebrated their victory see p. 7.
140 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY
" Kinsale, though much of it is in a tumble-down condition, bears evidence
of its former importance, and is still a most interesting place to visit, with
its narrow, half-foreign-looking streets, the fine old church of St. Multose,
and the remains of Charles Fort in the middle of its winding harbour. At
one time it imported more tobacco than any other place in Ireland " (J.
Coleman). The fine liarbour is still used by naval ships, and the Royal Naval
Reserve hold their manoeuvres here annually. It is, besides, the headquarters
of the southern fisheries. Tlie Old Head of Kiiisale, the first British land
sighted by travellers from America, is five miles S. W., and conveniently reached
by the ferry. The World's End is said to be a Spanish colony. There is a
large barracks near the town, and a dep6t at Charles Fort. At Summer Cove,
about a mile from Kinsale, is a Naval Reserve battery of importance as a
training centre.
The uext station is Upton (15^ miles), and beyond Inuishannon
(18 miles) the countr}' is well wooded, and the line follows closely
along the winding stream of the Bandon. At 20 miles we reach
Bandon (pop. 2830 ; Hotel: Devonshire Arms), a clean and
well-built town, on the river of that name, founded in 1608 by
the Earl of Cork. It was here that the flax industry was first
started in the south of Ireland by Lord Bernard.
On entering the gates, Dean S\vift is said to have written
on the wall —
" Jew, Turk, or Atheist may enter here, but not a Papist."
Some wag added —
" Whoever wrote this, wrote it well.
The same is written on the gates of hell."
Bandon was fortified by strong walls and towers, but they were
removed by William of Orange.
About 1^ m. west of the town is Castle Bernard, the seat of the
Earl of Bandon, to which there is free admission, except on Sun-
days. Cheap tickets are issued from Cork available by the noon
train, to Bantry in connection with coaches to Harbour View (hotel
and golf links at Kilbrittain), Timoleague, also to Innishannon,
Downdaniel Castle, etc., the latter a day trip.
From Bandon we follow the course of the river through a
pleasant and \vell-wo(jded country, ])assing the stations of Clona-
kilty Junction (33) (change for Clonakilty and Court inacshony
{Hotel)), Desert (27|), and Baliiieon (30:J).
After crossing the Bandon river, we have on the left the ruined
Ballynacarriga Castle ; and at Dunmanway (38 miles), formerly
possessing a castle, the country becomes wilder and more un-
cultivated till we roach Driiiivkaguc (50^ miles), the junction
GOLEEN 141
for the lien Valley line (one of the light railways) to Skibbereen
(53| miles) and Baltimore.
Skibbereen (pop. 3208; Hotels: West Cork, Hen Valley, and Eldon) la
situated on the Hen, which is navigable for small vessels to the town. It
possesses a Roman Catholic cathedral, and, near the tower, is the Abbey of
Abbeystro^vry. On the coast (3 miles) is Rossbrin Castle, and near it the
Cappach copper-mills. The scenery between Drimoleague and Skibbereen
is grandly picturesque. There is good salmon-fishing on the Hen. In the
season a coach runs from Skibbereen to Lough Hyne, or to Glandore, in con-
nection with the 9 a.m. train from Cork.
The most enjoyable excursion is to Glandore (SJ miles, east). At Lea-fi
(pron. " Lep") there is a tiny hotel. The road thereafter runs by Shepper-
tou Lakes, fishing on reasonable terms. Glandore itself is most beautifully
situated, but is hardly yet sufficiently developed to attract tourists. There
is a primitive hotel.
At Baltimore (Hotel : 8J miles south-west) is a fishing station instituted by
Lady Burdett-Coutts. There is a piscatorial school here to train the youth
in all matters connected with fishing. Baltimore was sacked in 1631 by
some Algerine pirates, who slew many of the inhabitants, and carried off
200 persons into captivity — an event which has been commemorated in " The
Sack of Baltimore," a stirring ballad by the Irish poet, Davis.
A steam tram runs from Skibbereen to SchuU (15 miles), which
starts westward with the Hen river, and passes through wooded
country to the coast of Roaringwater Bay. Then it runs pleasantly
among sandstone and furze, with good views to the south, to the
queerly-named village of Ballydehoh, where on cattle-fair days
both station and tramcar may be — well, agiicultui-al ! Beyond
the latter there is nothing to remark on until we reach SchuU
[Hotel : *Grove House (very pleasant)). This quiet sea-inlet might
well attract many people who want to be in beautiful scenery ofl
the beaten track; sea -fishing and boating can be indulged in
to an unlimited extent, and the hotel, which stands in its own
grounds, is as comfortable as a private house.
Goleen (10 miles west of SchuU ; and 21 from Bantry) is a
charming little inlet on the west side of Toormore Bay (/?m .• Mr.
O'Cormick's). The excursion is the Mizen Head round (17 miles),
by a wild, twisting coast road, affording fine scenery among the
sea lagoons and rocky promontories. It is about 7 miles to Mizen
Head Tower, 4 miles on to Three Castles, and about 6 back to
Goleen (or 12 if the usual return through Crookhaven be taken).
Cape Clear Island, 5 7niles from Baltimore, is 3 miles long. Its
coasts are rugged and dangerous, and its inhabitants bold fisher-
142 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY
men and skilful pilots. Crookhaven is a signalling station for
ships to or from the Atlantic. Off Crookhaven is the well-known
Fastnet Lighthouse.
After leaving Drimoleague (page 140) we pass bogs and bleached
fir roots ; away to the right is Mount Owen.
BANTRY.
Hotels : of these, Vickery's is the best.
DiSTAKCES : Cork (rail), 57f ; Glengariffe (road), 11 J ; Kenmare (road), 29i ;
Killarney (road), 49J ; Castletown-Berehaven, 33 ; Schall, 17J.
Coaches, etc.. To Glengariffe and Killarney, see pink pages. To Castletown-
Berehaven there is a service of steamers and a mail-car.
This, the terminus of the railway, is well situated on "the
finest bay in Ireland, with scenery to match." Of all the
harbours cutting up this wonderful coast between Kenmare and
Cork into rocky headlands, Bantry Bay is the finest. In the
mackerel season the place is alive with fishing boats. Once a
year the Channel Fleet holds here its autumn manoeuvres. A
steamer, the Lady Elsie, plies in the season between Bantry and
Glengarifi'e, and passengers by rail have the choice of going by sea
instead of coach, the tickets being interchangeable.
Those who have been to Dublin Museum will remember the
skeleton of the whale (65 feet long) hanging there which was
caught in this bay.
In 1796 the French Fleet arrived here the second time "for
the invasion of Ireland ; but England's natural allies, the winds
and the waves, being against them, they failed to elfect a landing
and soon set sail, witii the exception of one vessel that got
wrecked, and another, the ' Tartare,' which was taken as a prize
of war into Cork." Besides irhhlcly Island, between Bantry and
Glengariffe, the Island of Bert (p. 145) gives variety to the Bay
surface.
At Bantry there is " excellent soa-flshing " (Grant), good
bathing, and some autumn shooting. Entering the little town
{3109 poj}.) from the railway, one is struck by the width of the
BANTRY 143
bare open space which possesses, at least, one attraction in its big
nam© of " Egerton Square."
Descending to the harbour you take the left road for Bantry
House, formerly belonging to the Earl of Bantry {grownds open
daily ; no cycles). A short distance along this road is the severe-
looking gateway, within which a drive leads up to the house. The
latter is no great work of art, but a path leads up to the left
through dainty gardens and up some terraces to a splendid view-
point. All the head of Bantry Bay lies before you, with Whiddy
Island, Glengariffe, the Sugar Loaf Mountain on the left, and
some fine stretches of local scenery. The title of Bantry, now
extinct, was created in recognition of the services of Mr. "White, a
local landlord, at the time of the 1796 invasion (J. Coleman).
The sea or road excursion to Berehaven {see above) and the
road trip to Goleen (p. 141) are well worth doing.
Should the weather be calm, Glengarifife may be reached by a
delightful sail across Bantry Bay, the unique charm of which is
in this way more fully realised. Pedestrians, instead of following
the car route to Glengariffe and Kenmare, will obtain a more
thorough knowledge of the character of the mountainous region
to the north by turning up at Suave Bridge, 6 miles, and then
either (1) to Sans Souci, and over Priest Leap (2000 feet) to
Kenmare (24 miles) ; or (2) bearing north-east over the hills to
Kilgarvan Station, 24 miles, or Kenmare 33^ miles.
For those wishing to proceed by the Prince of Wales route to
Killarney there is a car from Viekery's Hotel in waiting at the
station. A halt being made at the station for refreshments,
the journey to Glengariffe (11 miles distant) is resumed. It
occupies about an hour and a half, and is usually taken leisurely,
that the scenery may be more fully enjoyed. The road bounds
the northern margin of the bay, of which, as we reach higher
ground, we have a delightful prospect, the Chapel Islands and
Whiddy Island being passed on the left, and the picturesque
Caha Mountains, with Sugar Loaf in the foreground, looming
grandly in the distance. About a mile beyond Bantry we cross
the river Mealagh, which, on the left, forms the fantastic falls of
Dunnamark, near which once stood a castle built in the reign of
King John. Here, according to an old tradition, human foot
first trod on Irish ground.
At Ballylickey (3 miles), where we are joined by the road from
Macroom, the Owvane is crossed, and, a mile and a half farther
144 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY
ou, the Coomhola, which rises in Longh Nambrackderg, a raoun-
taiu tarn occup3'ing the side of a prehistoric glacier. This region
may be explored by taking the central of the three roads
immediately after crossing the Owvane. On the way to Glen-
gariffe we pass the Knorkline Mountain (1561 feet), some miles
to the right, and Cobdhuv (1244 feet), close at hand. Shortly
afterwards we enter the grounds of Roche's Hotel, commanding a
fine view of GlengariSo Harbour and the Caha Mountains. The
car, after stopping to set down passengers, proceeds one mile
farther to its destination at Eccles Hotel, at the head of the
harbour.
Glengariflfe {Hotels: *Roche's, very pleasant ; Eccles', good).
The name means "rugged glen," and refers to the rocks of every
variety of form which crowd it in bewildering confusion. Lofty
mountains of the same wild irregular outline surround it on
the east, north, and west ; while in front is the bay, with its
winding shores stretching out to the open sea, and itself
studded with numerous fantastic rocky islets, whoso outlines,
reflected in the depths of the water, add additional witchery
to the scene. ^
The crevices of the rugged rocks are filled with a luxuriant
vegetation, which softens and beautifies their irregular outlines,
and clothes them in a vivid green. The mildness of the climate
permits even geraniums, fuchsias, and myrtles to remain un-
sheltered throughout the year. Several tropical and subtropical
plants are to be found here, which grow nowhere else in Europe,
and the balmy air, with the frequent showers, gives to all the
vegetation a wonderful richness and profusion. The arbutus,
holly, and birch envelop the rocks in luxuriant foliage down to
the water's edge.
"The long promontories which jut out along the southern coast are the
extremities of mountain ridges of Lower Old Red Sandstone. . . . The serried
ridges of Glengariffe, washed by the waters of Bantry Bay, are perhaps the
most striking ; and, when seen from the opposite shore against the glowing
background of an evening sunset, afford studies of shade and colour for the
painter, not often surpassed in depth and richness of tone amongst the
British Isles " (i'ro/M3or UuU).
GlengarifTe is strongly recommended by medical authoritiea
1 There is a glowing deecrlption In Tht Sinner (Riu).
GLENGARIFF AND KENMARE.
PubUiludVil-ACEUck. Laaao
GLENGARIFFE 145
as a health resort in winter for all suffering from chest and lung
complaints. Its climate is mild and uniform, and the mountains
protect it on the north-east and west.
The prettiest bit of the village itself is the charming view
of the ruins of CroiniceU's Bridge seen from the modern
bridge on the main road. On an island in the bay is a martello
tower.
Both for botanists and geologists, Glengariffe is a district of
especial interest ; and for other persons making a lengthened stay
there are abundant facilities for boating and fishing, and for
various excursions to the Caha Mountains and elsewhere. The
daily mail-car also passes Glengariffe for Castletown Bere, 22 miles
along the base of the Sugar Loaf and Caha Mountains, by the
shore of Glengariffe Harbour and Bantry Bay.
Repaying excursions can be made to Adrigole Waterfall (about
13 miles) on the little harbour of the same name. About 10 miles
farther west along the northern shore of the bay is CaBtletown
Berehaven {Hotel), near Bere Island. About 3 miles south-
west along the coast is the old Castle of Dunboy, whose famous
siege in 1602 forms a most memorable incident in Irish annals.
"The retreat, after the fall of Dunboy, of the senior members of
the O'Sullivan-Beave family with many of their followers from
their ancestral lands here, to the north of Ireland, whence they
ultimately emigrated to Spain, is one of the most thrilling epi-
sodes in our national history." This old castle and the coast
form the scene of much of Mr. Fronde's story, The Tv:o Cliiefs of
Dunhoy. The fine modern mansion is near.
The quiet western port is the headquarters of the Atlantic
Fleet and is visited annually by the Channel Fleet (p. 142).
The car/rom Glengariffe to Killarney, after receiving passengers
from Roche's Hotel, starts from Eccles' Hotel in the early
morning. The distance to Killarney {cycling, 6 miles' pushing,
then good), is 38^ miles, the first stage being to Kenmare (17|
miles), where horses are changed, and a stop of half an hour
made for luncheon. Passing through the village of Glengariffe,
wc take the road to the right, having on the left OUngariffe\
Lodge, formerly one of the seats of Lord Bantry. Beyond this is
the "Eagle's Nest," an inaccessible precipice.
After crossing Crosstery Bridge, opposite the National School,
on the left, the road gradually ascends, and magnificent views
lo
146 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY
are obtained of the surrounding mountains and Bantry Bay.
Immediately below is the valley of the Proudly, and Barley Lake
on the Caha Mountains is seen above it, glancing in the sun. To
the right, in front, we see the Priest Leap road, leading across
the mountains to Killarney. Gradually ascending the Esk
Mountain in winding curves, we pass under Turner's Rock by a
muddy tunnel about 200 yards in length, connecting the counties
of Kerry and Cork. When we emerge from it a gorgeous prospect
bursts upon the astonished traveller, who beholds in one grand
panorama the beautiful valley of the Sheen, backed by the jagged
tops of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, and Mangerton Mountain and the
summits of the Paps, whose bold, wild forms, seen in a clear
atmosphere, epchant both eye and mind.
We now follow the Sheen to Kenmare, passing on the left
Derrynacaheragh Mountain (1238 feet), and in front of it a Roman
Catholic chapel.
Cyclists will find this one of the grandest descents, in every respect, in
the kingdom. A halt of five minutes should be made near Bunane, beyond
Releagh Bridge, to obtain the beautiful view down the valley from the bridge
over the falls, just right of the road. Down stream is a river landscape of
rare beauty. In the foreground the falls and the fir-trees ; beyond, more
firs, and soft green meadows ; far away the unusually fine outline of the
mountains over Killarney; through all the thread of the silvery "Sheen."
If favoured with a September sunset, you will not forget this gem.
As we gradually descend, our view of Kenmare Bay widens
and extends ; and crossing the river, where a road goes off (left)
to Berehaven, by the Lansdowne suspension bridge, we enter
Kenmare.
Kenmare (pop. 1122 ; Hotels : Great Southern, first class ;
Lansdowne Arms), a clean town of two featureless streets, is the
property of the Marquis of Lansdowne, having been founded in
1670 by his ancestor. Sir William Petty. It is finely situated on
the Kenmare river, here spanned by a large suspension bridge.
Its chief attraction consists in its position as the chief southern
entrance to the Killarney district, and the splendid scenery of
the Waterville Promontory.
Coaches run daily to Parknasilla, 15 miles ; Waterville, 37
miles ; Cahirciveen, 47 miles ; Glengariffe, 17^ miles ; and Kil-
larney, 21 miles. It is 31 miles to Macroom and 16i to Sneem.
The Coach for Killarney, after lunch, starts over the bridge
across the Finnihy, and climbs up 5J miles to the summit of the
KENMARE 147
Pass between the rocks of Derrygarriff on the right, and the left-
hand shoulder of Boughil. After turning a sharp corner, a fine
view opens out northwards. The richness of the tints, especially
of the purples, of the distant mountains is most striking, if the
sun favours you. Note the rock profiles in the Gap of Dunloe
straight in front, across the Owenreagh river. To the right of
the Gap are the Tomies j the Reeks are on the left.
Descending, the road arrives at Looscaunagh Lough (8 miles)
and passes along by the shore.
At IJ miles beyond comes a sudden bend in the road, and there bursts
upon you one of the very grandest scenes that the eye can find in the British
Isles. Once seen in sunny summer weather It can never be forgotten, and
had Mr. Alfred Austin confined his enthusiastic utterance upon the district
to this lovely bit, most would, we think, have agreed with him. " There is
nothing," he says, " in England or Scotland as beautiful as Killarney . . .
and if mountain, wood, and water harmoniously blent, constitute the most
perfect and adequate loveliness that nature presents, it surely must be
owned that it has, all the world over, no superior."
The road soon passes the Mulgrave Barracks, and J mile farther
(on left) the Derrycunihy Cascade and Queen's Cottage, then
descends, mile after mile, through the exquisite foliage of ever-
changing trees, and an ever-varying light and shade that plays
over leaf and stem. If any tree preponderates it is the holly, with
a leaf remarkable for its glossiness. Beyond the Tunnel, the
arhutus, "so slender and shapely, on the borders of Leane," adds
a new feature to the already luxuriant verdure. The regular
route thereafter takes a sharp turn right, and a smaller road goes
off at an acute angle on the left ; this leads across a chain of
islands coming out at the gates of the Muckross demesne opposite
the Muckross Hotel. Entrance, Is. Cyclists, however, are only
allowed to traverse it in the opposite direction, coming from
Killarney, a necessary precaution as the way is very narrow.
The high road runs between walls without any view of the
lake at all, and any cyclist desirous of seeing more must turn in
at the Muckross gate aforesaid, go the round, and re-traverse the
same strip of main road. For continuation see p. 160, also p.
163.
148 MACROOM ROUTE TO KILLARNEY
MACROOM ROUTE TO KILLARNEY.
By Railway tVom Capwell Station, Cork, to Macroom ; theuce by coach.
Cork.
Miles. 1
Miles.
Macroom (rail) .
. 24i :
Snave Bridge (car)
6Di
Glengarifle (car) .
62i
Incliigeelagli (car)
. 34i !
Kenmare (car)
80
Pas.s of Keimaneigh (i-ur]
\ . 441
Klllarney (car)
. 100
The journey to Killarney by Macroom affords the opportunity of visiting
Gouganebarra and the Pass of Keimaneigh. Well-appointed four-horse
coaches run daily (Sundays excepted) between Macroom and Killarney
vid Glengariffe, etc. Programme from the Cork and Matroom Direct
Railway, Capwell, Cork.
One of the best cycling excursions round Cork is the one here described.
The railway issues special passenger and cycle tickets combined at very
low rates (4s. 3rd class) to carry the cyclist to Macroom and bring him
back from Bantry. As the road frem Macroom through the Inchigeelagh
Valley is nearly all dowmhill, this is well worth doing. Distance 29
miles.
From Cork the railway follows the cour.se of the Lee.
BallincoUig (pop. 746, 6| miles) possesses powder-mills, cavalry
and infantry barracks, and a ruined old castle, on a rock to the
left. Shortly after passing Kilumney Station (9| miles) we see
on the right the extensive ruin of Kikrea Abbey, founded for the
Franciscans in 1465. Beyond Dooniskey we cross the river Lee,
ami obtain a view of Coolcower Bridge on the left, above which
the Laney and Sullane join the Lee.
Macroom {Hotel: "Williams), an old market town, is the
terminus of the railway. It is built on a slope at the base of
Sleveen Hill, hence the name Magh-crom-tha, in Irish meaning
"inclining plain." It possesses the square keep of a castle, said
to have been built by the Carews in the reign of King John. It
claims to bo the birthplace of Sir William Penn, father of the
founder of Pennsylvania. It was taken by Sir Charles Wilniot,
one of Elizabeth's Generals, in 1602. Here, in May 1650, the
titular Bishop of Ross, in preparing for the relief of Cloumel, was
defeated by Lord Broghill and taken prisoner.
Killarney may bo reached from Macroom by a direct route,
KILLARNEY BY MACROOM 149
following first the valley of the SuUane to Ballyvourney, and
descending by Glon Flesk, the total distance being about 36 miles.
The usual way is, however, to proceed vid Bautry Bay and Glen-
gariffe — the Iiuhigeelagh route being that usually chosen. After
turning to the left we enter the Garra Valley by the river Toon,
with its "tangled watercourses" winding through the moor. To
the right, above the valley, are the rocky ledges called the
Grianan ; and after passing the ruined tower of Dundareirke, a
fortress of the M'Carthys, on a precipitous rock at the junction
of the Toon and the Lee, we journey through a succession of
steep and rugged glens, until we reach Inchigeelagh (1.0 miles
from Macroom) ; the Hotel, an angler's resort, is good. The
trout-fishing on Lough Allna, 1^ mile up the Lee, is free, and
salmon-fishing can be obtained occasionally.
At Bealanageary (15 miles) the left road is followed for 3
miles ; then at the road-fork a digression is generally made to
visit the lough of Gouganeiarra, above on the right.
On this wild water are the ruins of the cell of St. Finnbarr, who is said to
have given his name to the spot.
The 20th mile brings you to the "Pass of the Deer," or
Keimaneigh, one of the impressive passes of Ireland. Lord
Bantry, with a small following, at the beginning of the 19th
century, made a fruitless attempt to dislodge Captain Rock, who,
with a gang of wild marauders, had occupied the pass.
As we descend, Bantry Bay opens before us, and, joining the
road from Bantry at Snave Bridge, 4^ miles from the town, we
proceed by the route already described to Glengarifle and
Killarney (page 143).
(1 (rv-^/OyvyjL
160
KILLARNEY.
Hotels.— Great Southern (G.S.W. Railway); Royal Victoria, well situated,
about IJ mile north-west from station; Lake, right on lake. These
three are absolutely first-class and up-to-date. Others where charges
would not be so high, New (G.S.W. Railway), recently opened by the
railway, and close to the station, deserves special mention, it is an
attempt to give all essentials to comfort in a simpler way and on more
reasonable terms than has hitherto been an hotel ideal. The plain yet
effective lines of its furnishing scheme, etc., will appeal to many. It
deserves imitation elsewhere. Lake View (temperance), small branch of
Metropole, Cork ; Flesk ; Sheheree House, pension.
At Muckross (3J miles).— Muctross; 0' Sullivan's.
In the town are : Graham's, 8s. 6d. per day ; Glebe, and many others.
Distances (Road).— Dublin, IVSJ; Cork, 56|; Mallow, 46; Kenmare, 20;
Glengariffe, 38i ; Bantry, 48| ; Cahirciveen, 39 ; Watcrville (by Glen-
beigh), 51| ; Tralee, 20.
Killarney (Irish, Cill-airtie, tlie Church of the Sloes ; pop. 5656),
thougli inhabited chiefly by the poorer classes, has some good shops,
and of late years has been considerably improved. There is com-
fortable accommodation for visitors iu the numerous hotels, which
are in an ascending scale to suit all purses. For positions of
hotels see plan. The village is situated about one mile and
a half from the north-east margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower
Lake. At one time it had iron smelting works, but the furnaces
were put out many years ago, and Killarney is now wholly
dependent on its visitors. Tradesmen, boatmen, guides, workers
in arbutus wood, and drivers are the chief inhabitants.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral is a very imposing building.
The severity of the interior is increased by its great height, and
by the stucco of the walls, relieved only by cold grey stone. The
several carved reredoses above the altars are exceedingly rich and
elaborate. The School of Arts nnd Crafts, a thriving industry,
which owes its success to the Viscounte.ss Castlerosse, should be
visited, and the wood-carving seen.
Tlie line mansion of the Earl of Kenmare, a very extensive
EXCURSIONS FROM KILLARNEY
151
castellated structure in red brick and sandstone, lately erected,
adjoins the town.
Lord Keninan's Demesne.— Ot several gates the Deenagh Gate is the prin-
cipal. This is opposite the Roman Catholic Cathedral, and is the proper
entrance for the gardens, which are very fine indeed. The view of the lake is
splendid. Inclusive charge at all entrances for visitors (with or without
cycles), 6d. Hours, 7 to 7.
The Lakes of Killarney are situated in a basin between several
mountain groups, some rising abruptly from the water's edge.
The special charms of the scenery may almost be said to arise from
its multiform contrasts and its endless variety. Even in regard
to colour this holds good : the rich vegetation which clothes the
islands and the sides of the hills presents many diversified shades,
the bright green of the arbutus being the most prominent, except
in autumn, when this is succeeded by the pale yellow of its
berries, which later on changes gradually into a bright scarlet.
The tourist who has only one day to spare is advised to take the
excursion described below, for which arrangements should be
made with the hotel-keeper. Charge 7s. each, but not less than
21s. accepted ; ponies extra, also toll Is. a head.
The Gap is possible for cyclists but very bad, roads stony with
sharp turns.
Killarney to the Gap of Duuloe, by Car, through the Gap on foot
OB BY pony to the HEAD OF THE UPPER LaKE, WHERB A BOAT SHOULD
BE IN WAITINO FOB THE RETURN JOURNEY BY THE THREE LAKES.
Miles.
Miles.
Killarney town.
Head of Upper Lake
14i
Aghadoe ruins .
2J
M'Carthy's Island.
Aghadoe Church
8
Eagle Island.
Aghadoe House
8
Arbutus Island.
Kilalee Church (ruins)
6
Newfoundland Bay.
Beaufort House
6J
Enter Long Range .
16i
Dunloe Castle ....
n
Man-of-War Rock.
Kate Kearney's Cottage .
Si
Eagle's Nest.
Cosaun Lough ....
9
Enter Middle Lake by Old Weir
Cushvalley Lough .
lOJ
Bridge
19J
Augur Lough and Pike Rock .
11
Dinish Island.
Black Lough ....
iH
Brickeen Island.
Gap Cottage ....
12
Enter Lower Lake by Brickeen
(Cars stop. Continue on foot
Bridge ...
20
or pony.)
Glena Bay.
Bite of Lord Brandon's Cottage
14
O'Sullivan's Cascade.
Innisfallen (ruined abbey)
25J
Proceed by boat (which should
Ross Island (ruined castle)
26
be in waiting).
Land here or at Muckrosa
28i
152 EXCURSIONS FROM KILLARNEY
The Royal Victoria, Great Southern, and Lake Hotels have
landing-places on the Lough.
Proceeding down the main street of Killarney we turn to the
left at the Tovm Hall, holding nearly due west. On the outskirts
of the town Ave pass on the right the Bishop's palace, Roman
Catholic cathedral and monastery, and on the left the main
entrance to the Earl of Kenmare's grounds. Either going or re-
turning it is well for the cyclist to ride through these grounds (6d.),
otherwise he will not see the lake at all. If he keeps to the road,
a little beyond the Deenagh River Bridge, a detour of some extent,
up a hill, may be made to the right to visit the venerable ruins of
Aghadoe, perched on a piece of rising ground, and commanding
a full view of Lough Leane.
The Castle is but a fragment of a tower about 30 feet in
height. Of its foundation or occupation no records are extant,
but the titles given by tradition, "The Bishop's Chair" and
"The Pulpit," would seem to indicate that it had been originally
the residence of the bishop of the diocese.
The Church, writes Windele, " is a low oblong building, con-
sisting of two distinct chapels, of unequal antiquity, lying east
and west of each other ; that to the east is in the Pointed style
(1158 ?), and dedicated to the Holy Trinity" ; the other, the nave,
though of Romanesque character, was probably built some
centuries before the coming of the Normans, and may have
succeeded the earlier chapel of St. Finian. These are separated
by a solid wall, through which there once was a communica-
tion, but it had been closed up long before the destruction of the
building.
The Round Tow^er is in no better condition than the castle.
Its present height is hardly 15 feet. "Its masonry is greatly
superior to that of the church. Tlio stones are large, regular,
and well dressed. The greater part of the facing stone of the
north side has been unfortunately taken away for the erection of
tombs in the adjacent burying-ground." Miss Stokes assigns a
12th century date.
Continuing the drive for another mile, we take a sharp tmn
to the left, before which, however, we pass Aghadoe House, the
pleasant mansion of Lord Headley. After a quarter of a mile's
drive in a south-eastein direction, we take another sharp turn to
the right, and so rejoin the main road to the Gap. To our left
AGHADOE
153
on the lake side is Lake View Souse, the residence of Sir Ross
O'Connell, Bart. After passing a school a tempting road (left) ^ ^
with signpost invites the cyclist, but he will be wiser to keep to F '
the main road, bumpy as it is, as the other saves little and the i:-- O
views are much less grand. On the same side appears Killalee P
House, and on the right the ruins of the church. At Beaufort T^ ^
Bridge (left) we cross the Laune, having passed Beaufort House. ^
DuNLOE Castle, also on the left, the seat of the MahonyT
family. v
The Cave of Dunloe, which was situated in a field close by p
the high road, and about two miles' distant from the entrance
to the Gap, fell in some years ago. It was discovered in 1838, ^~'
and, from its Ogham inscriptions, was of great interest to^
^ antiquaries. ^
At the river Loe, which issues from the Gap, Kate Kearney' s\
cottage faces us on the left. Here it is usual to accept a glass of ^
goat's milk, seasoned, if desired, by " potheen." Our road now
keeps to the right of the Loe. Shortly after passing Cosaun ;_,
.Lake we cross the Loe, following its right bank past Blackwater ^
(^ Lake, Cushvalley Lake, and Augher Lake. Shortly after leaving
-•^ Kate Kearney's house we pass under the shadow of the Tomies 3_
and Purple Mountain, i 2739 feet, opposite which, to the right, isp >
Bull Mountain. At Black Lough we cross it again, and soo^ (v
arrive at Gap Cottage. ^ " ^
The entire length of the defile called the Gap of Dunloe is i,:^,_,
about 4 miles. The principal feature of the pass is the great ^X^
height of the rocks which bound it, in contrast with the narrow
road, and the insignificant streamlet which courses through it.
" By the Gap of Dunloe, a narrow gorge which strikes across the
, ridge into the higher part of the Black Valley, a fine section of
k the rock forming the northern flanks of the mountains is
obtained. It is here, indeed, that the wonder of the geological
observer is excited " [Dr. E. Hull).
A small but rapid stream called the Loe traverses the whole
length of the glen, expanding itself at different points into five
small lakes. The new police Barrack, at the spot where the
west foot of Purple Mountain drops into Auger Lough, gives
a sense of security in what would otherwise be a lonely
S-
X 1
?•
1 The proper place to ascend the Piu-ple Mountain is the Gap of Dunloe.
10 ascend it from Gearhameen, as sometimes recommended, would be
extremely toilsome, and it is seldom attempted. -
154 THE BLACK VALLEY
spot. It stands close to the Woodwork Factory — ' ' Gap
House " — where the many-coloured arbutus wood is worked into
various artistic forms. The road, which is fairly wide, well
worn, and steep above Auger Lough, crosses the Loe by means
of bridges.
At the foot of Cosaun Lough "Captain" Doyle, cornet in
hand, waits to introduce you to the Gap with musical honours.
Of his varieties the " laugliing echo" is perhaps the best.
The part of the glen which attracts most admiration is that
where the valley becomes contracted, and is called the "Pike."
Cars are not taken beyond the Gap Cottage, from whence the
tourist may either walk or ride (ponies are always in readi-
ness) the 3 miles to the point of embarkation at the Upper
Lake. Touters frequent this valley with cannon, which
they discharge in order to awake the magnificent echo, which
passes from hill to hill.
Emerging from the Gap at its upper end, we come within
sight of The Black Valley. "It may be admitted," says Dr.
Joyce in Irish Names of Places, "that the direction of this
valley with regard to the sun, at the time of day when visitors
generally see it, has some influence in rendering the view of it
indistinct ; but it certainly is not blacker than many other
valleys among the Killarnoy mountains ; and the imagination of
tourists is led captive, and they are betrayed into false descrip-
tions of its gloominess, because it has been called the Black
Valley, which is not its name at all. The variety of ways in
which the original is spelled by different writers, Coomdhuv,
Coomadhuv, Coomydhuv, Cummeendhuv, etc., might lead any
one to suspect that there was something wrong in the transla-
tion ; whereas, if it were intended for the Black Valley, it would
be Coomdhuv, and nothing else. To an Irish scholar, the pro-
nunciation of the natives makes the matter jjorfoctly clear ; and
I almost regret being obliged to give it a much less poetical in-
terpretation. They invariably call it Coom-ee-mv (this imper-
fectly represents the pronunciation, except only the w, where
there is a soft guttural that does not exist in English), which
will be recognised as Cum-ui-Dhuibh, O'Duff's Valley. Who
this O'Duff was I have not been able to ascertain."
Mr. Windele thus describes the valley : — On our right lies the
deep, broad, desolate glen of Coom Dhuv, an amphitheatre buried
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 155
at the base, aud hemmed in by vast masses of mountain, whose
rugged sides are marked by the course of descending streams. It
is a groat pity that so fine a pass should be rendered impracticable
for motors, and almost so for cyclists, by its shocking roadway.
A little outlay on the part of the authorities would double and
treble the number of visitors. But all the roads about Killarney
are a disgrace to the district.
"The Lakes are situated in the carboniferous limestone, but
send a long arm southwards into the heart of the mountains of
Lower Old Red Sandstone, which terminates in the Black Valley,
a gloomy and savage cul-de-sac, bounded by steep cliffs stretch-
ing along the eastern shoulder of the Reeks " {Eull).
On making our descent from the Gap we take a sharp — and to
cyclists, dangerous — curve towards the foot of Feabrahy's noble
crags (1894 feet), and then back down to Gearhameen Stream,
passing the school,
[Hard by which is the cottage of Mr. Tangney, who makes as good a guide
up Carrantuohill and the Reeks as h's good lady is a caterer for tea-drinkers.
This is a starting-place for the ascent of Carrantuohill, 3414 feet. Airange-
ments for the ascent should be made in advance, by post. Address : Mr. R. D.
Tangney, Gearhameen, Beaufort, Killarney.]
and the road (right) which threads the "fairy glades" of Owen-
reagh Glen. Continuing dii-ect, the road crosses the bridge and
leads through a wall to Gearhameen Demesne (Is.) "Within the
wall are the Waiting rooms called "Lord Brandon's Cottage,"
where tea can be had, or luncheon, ordered beforehand from the
hotel, and brought up by the boats ; and a path of J mile
descends to the Upper Lake.
The track that leads off (right) through the thick woods and
bogs to Derrycunihy Falls should not be attempted except on
horseback. Verium sap.
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
It is only by a row on the lakes that the loveliness of their
scenery can be fully realised. The changing contours of the
mountains, the luxuriant foliago clothing the winding shores of
the lakes and the lesser hills adjoining them, the numerous
islets that dot their surface, are in this way seen to much better
advantage than on land ; and indeed no one can be said to have
really visited the Lakes of Killarney who has not enjoyed the
pleasure of a row over them.
156 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
The Upper Lake iu a dry season covers only about 430 acres.
Its length when at its lowest is about 2^ miles, but after a flood
about 3 miles. Though the smallest of the three lakes, it is gener-
ally considered the most beautiful. Tliis is owing to its proximity
to the mountains, which on two sides rise abruptly from the
water's edge, while in the distant west the Reeks
" Lift to the clouds their cragj^y heads on high,
Crowned with tiaras fashioned in the sky."'
"The wild grandeur," writes Mr. Coyne, "of the Upper Lake
strikes the observer on first beholding it with feelings of awe and
admiration. Perfectly distinct in the character of its romantic
scenery from that of the Tore and Lower Lake, it combines
many of the softer beauties of wood and water, with all the stern
reality of mountain scenery." The Purple Mountain looks down
upon it from the north, and on the south the Derrycunihy ranges,
of lesser elevation but picturesquely wooded, form the foreground,
behind which on the east the lofty Mangerton towers in the
distance.
The lake contains twelve islands, none of them much above an
acre in extent. The bright green aspect of the islands is due to
the presence of the arbutus {Arbutus unedo). Even in winter the
leaves of the arbutus arc of a rich glossy green, and they are so
clustered at the terminations of the branches, that the waxen
flesh-like flowers, which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich
crimson strawberry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure.
Passing on the right M'Carthy's Island — so called, it is
supposed, from having been the refuge of one of the last of the
Jl'Carthys — and Eagle Island, the largest of all, we see the
mouth of the Derrycunihy River, about a mile from the western
end of the lake, which forms a beautiful cascade as it descends
into the bosom of the waters. At Arbutus Island, which we pass
on the left, the lake has narrowed considerably. It again
widens opposite Stag Island, beyond which it narrows into the
beautiful creek of Newfoundland Bay. Our course, however,
lies to the right, into the Long Range, a river little more tlian 2
miles iu length connecting the Upper and Middle Lake. On
entering it at tlie narrowe.st point, we jiass on the left the
promontory called Colman's Eye ; then also on the left the
Jolly-Boat, opposite whicli on the right is the Cannon Rock.
Half a mile farther, on the right, is the Man-of-War Rock — a
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
157
mass resembling the hulk of a vessel, keel uppermost. Then still
farther are some miniature islets called the Four Islets. Beyond
them to the left The Eagle's Nest (1700 feet) rears its pyramidal
head. It is a rugged, precipitous cliff, in whose interstices the
gray eagles still have their eyries. The base is tolerably covered
with trees, shrubs, and underwood, but towards the upper part it
is bare, excepting where a few stunted trunks or heath, and other
lowly sub-alpine plants, find nourishment among the crevices.
The young birds are carried off every year between the 15th of June and
the 1st of July, when they are old enough to be brought up by the hand.
The rocks on which the nests are built are usually so steep and dangerous,
that they can be reached only by ropes from above.
The echo from this and the surrounding rocks is remarkable,
especially in calm weather. A bugle call we may hear repeated
nearly a dozen times, and answered from mountain to mountain,
sometimes loud and without interval, and then fainter and
fainter, and after a sudden pause again arising as if from some
distant glen, then insensibly dying away.
1. Original Air.
2. Echo.
8. Echo fainter.
4. Imperfect.
6. Bothered.
6. Original re-
peated,
7. Repeat imper-
fect.
Eagle's Nest Echo.— J/r. Croker's.
^plpSi
p^H^^
^^iii
M:p
^UPPPi
158 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
At the end of the Long Range is the "Meeting of the
Waters," which should rather be called the "Parting of the
Waters." The stream to the left skirts round Dinish Island into
Lough Leane, and that to the right passes under the Old Weir
Bridge into Muckross or Middle Lake.
Old Weir Bridge is an antiquated structure, consisting of
two arches, underneath which the water rushes with extraor-
dinary rapidity, especially if the river be in flood. The boatmen
do nothing but guide the boat as it dashes through under one of
the arches.
Muckross, Tore, or Middle Lake. — This lake contains an area of
680 acres. The principal islands are Dinish and Brickeen, which
separate it from the Lower and larger lake. There are three
passages between these two lakes, one round the eastern side of
Brickeen, another between Brickeen and Dinish Islands, and a
third by the Long Range to the west side of the latter.
Dinish Island, which is also well wooded, contains about 34
acres. On it there is a neat cottage, kindly kept up by Lord
Ardilaun, the proprietor, for the convenience and comfort of
visitors, where tea may be had if desired, 4.30 being about the
usual time of arrival.
Brickeen Island contains about 19 acres, and is well
wooded. It seems a continuation of the peninsula of Muckross,
from which a narrow stream separates it.
Of the beauty of Tore Lake much has been written, but tliat
it is inferior to the smaller, or Upper, is generally conceded.
Many prefer the Lower Lake, take it all in all, to either of the
two others. Thackeray, in the Irish Sketch-hook, in answer to
the question, "What is to be said about Tore Lake?" replies,
" When there we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large
lake, of whicl) it is not one-fourth the size ; then when we came
back, wo said, ' No, the large lake is the most beautiful ; ' and
so, at every i)oint we stopped at, wo determined that that
particular spot was the prettiest in the whole lake. The fact is,
and I don't care to own it, they are too handsome. As for a man
coming from his desk in Loudon and Dublin, and seeing ' the
whole lakes in a day,' he is an ass for his pains ; a child doing
sums in addition might as well read the whole multiplication
table, and fancy he had it by heart."
Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake, lias an area of about 6000
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 169
acres, its greatest length being 5, and breadth 3 miles. The
islands upon this lake are upwards of thirty in number, but very
few of them exceed one acre in extent, while the majority come
far short of that size. The largest islands are Rabbit Island,
a little above 12 acres, and Innisfallen, with an area of rather
more than 21 acres. The names of the islands are derived either
from some fancied resemblance to animate or inanimate objects,
or from being the resort of different animals. Thus we have
Lamb Island, Elephant Island, Gun Rocks, O'Donoghue's Horse,
Crow Island, Heron Island, Gannet Rocks, Otter Island, and
Stag Island. The chief beauty of the Lower Lake consists in its
wide placid surface, and the mountains which form its barriers
on the south and west. To the north-east the ground is level
and uninteresting, save for the woods on the demesnes of Kenmare
and Muckross. Innumerable nooks of surpassing beauty, how-
ever, do occur in the frequent bays and inlets which interrupt its
margin, and even the bare rocky islets contrast amazingly with
the verdure of the distant shores, the richly-clothed islands of
Innisfallen and Ross, and the mirror- like surface of the lake
whose bosom they disturb. This lake is not without its legends :
that regarding the great O'Donoghue is remarkably beautiful.
Once every seven years, on a fine morning, before the first rays of the sim
have begun to disperse the mists from the bosom of the lake, the O'Donoghue
comes riding over it on a beautiful snow-white horse, intent upon household
affairs, fairies hovering before hira and strewing his path with flowers. As
he approaches his ancient residence everything returns to its former state of
magnificence ; his castle, his library, his prison, and his pigeon-house, are
reproduced as in olden time. Those who have courage to follow him over
the lake may cross even the deepest parts dry-footed, and ride with him into
the opposite mountains, where his treasures lie concealed ; and the daring
visitor will receive a liberal gift in return for his company ; but before the
sun has risen, the O'Donoghue recrosses the water and vanishes amidst the
mins of his castle.
The character of this now spectral chief is said to have been
just and honourable, clearly distinguishing hira from another
of the same name, who bore the distinctive appellation of
"O'Donoghue of the Glens." The latter was "bloody and
tyrannous."
Glena Bay is the part of the Lower Lake first entered. A
picturesque little cottage, known as "Glena Cottage," stands on
the shore. The range of hills, which for fully two miles bounds
the south-west side of the lake, takes the name of Glena ; it is
I«0 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
clothed with wood, and the haunt of the red deer, now scarce even
in Scotland, and all but extinct in England. Stag-hunts used to
be of frequent occurrence among the lakes, and many a good fat
buck has been slain and eaten by the Irish chiefs ; now, however,
it is customary to capture the animal in the water, and afterwards
allow it to escape. From Mr. Weld we extract a few notes relative
to this sport.
On the day preceding the hunt, those preparations are made wliich are
thought best calculated to ensure a Iiappy issue. An experienced person is
sent up the mountain to search for the herd, and ^yatch its motions in patient
silence till night comes on. The deer which remains aloof from the herd is
selected for the next day's sport. The deer, upon being roused, generally
endeavours to gain the summit of the mountain, that he may the more readily
make his escape across the open heath to some distant retreat. To prevent
this, numljers of people are stationed at intervals along the heights, who by
loud shouting terrify the animal and drive him towards the lake. I was
once gratified by seeing a deer run for nearly a mile along the shore, with the
hounds pursuing him in full cry. On finding himself closely pressed he
leaped boldly from a rock into the lake and swam towards one of the islands ;
but, terrified by the approach of the boats, he returned, and once more
sought for safety on the main shore. Soon afterwards, in a desperate effort
to leap across a chasm between two rocks, his strength failed him, and he fell
exhausted to the bottom. It was most interesting to behold the numerous
spectators who hastened to the spot. Ladies, gentlemen, peasants, hunters,
combined in various groups around the noble victim as he lay extended in
the depth of the forest.
Rare ferns are found in the wood.
Pursuing our course ou the lake, we pass one or two little islets
and rocks on our way to "Sweet Innisfiillcn," but if time permits,
it would be well to keep the course of the shore to
O'Sullivan's Cascade. Landing in a little bay at the foot of
the Tomies, and following a rugged pathway through the thick
forest, we hear from time to time the dashing of the water down
its precipitous channel, until we at last reach the waterfall.
"The cascade," says Wright, "con.sists of three distinct stages ;
the uppermost, passing over a ridge of rock, falls about 20 feet
perpendicularly into a natural basin beneath, then making its
way between two hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a
second precipice, into a similar receptacle, from which second
depository, concealed from the view, it rolls over into the lowest
chamber of the fall. Beneath a projecting rock, overhanging
the lowest basin, is a grotto, with a seat rudely cut in the rock.
From tliis little grotto the view of the cascade is peculiarly
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 161
beautiful and interesting. It appears a continued flight of three
unequally elevated foamy storeys. The recess is encompassed liy
rocks, and overshadowed by an arch of foliage so thick as to
interrupt the admission of light."
Innisfallen Island, about half-way between the cast and
the west shores of the lake, is interesting on account of the
historical associations connected with it, the charm thrown
around it by the poetry of Moore, and more especially for its
own exceeding beauty. Of all islands it is perhaps the most
delightful.
The island appears from the lake or the adjoining shore to be densely
covered with magnificent timber and gigantic evergreens, but upon landing,
the interior of the island will be found to afford a variety of scenery well
worthy of a visit— beautiful glades and lawns, embellished by thickets of
flowering shrubs and evergreens, amongst which the arbutus and hollies are
conspicuous for their size and beauty. Many of the timber trees are oaks,
but the greater number are magnificent old ash trees of remarkable magni-
tude and luxuriance of growth.
The Abbey, whose ruins are near the landing-place, is believed
to have been founded about 650 by St. Finian, to whom the
cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated. In the east end are two
lancet windows, which, with this gable, have been recently re-
stored. A little away to the right is the small "Romanesque "
church standing by itself. The round-headed West doorway.
with remains of well-carved mouldings, is, architecturally, the
best thing on the island, and may date back as far as the 11th
century.
"Quiet, innocent, and tender is that lovely spot," wrote the
delighted Thackeray after his visit in 1842.
In this abbey the celebrated Annals of Innisfallen were com-
posed. The work contains scraps from the Old Testament, a
compendious, though not by any means valuable, universal
history down to the period of St. Patrick, with a more perfect
continuation of Irish history to the beginning of the 14th
century.
The MS., written perhaps in the 12th century, is now preserved in the
Bodleian Library. The publication of the work has been attempted at
various times, but a complete translation has not yet issued from the press.
The Annals recoid that, iu 1180, the abbey of Innisfallen, which had at
that time all the gold and silver and richest goods of the whole country
deposited iu it, as the place of greatest security, was plundered by Mildwin,
I I
162 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
son of Daniel O'Donoghue, as was also the church of Ardfert, and many
persons were slain in the very cemetery by the M'Oarthys. We take leave
of the Island with Moore's lines : —
"Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell
In memory's dream that sunny smile,
Which o'er theo on that evening fell
When first I saw thy faiiy isle."
On the way from Innisfallen to Ross Island you pass Mouse
Island, and in good weather may obtain a brief glimpse of the
" Kerry Paps " just over the ivied tower of Ross Castle.
Ross Island (admission included in the ticket issued
for the Home and Western Parks), situated on the eastern
shore, is properly a peninsula, though at high water it is
difficult to reach it from the shore without having recourse to
the bridge. It is well planted and intersected with walks, not
now so well kept as formerly. On the southern point we
come upon a copper-mine opened in ISOi by Colonel Hall, father
of S. C. Hall. The position was very unfavourable, being close
to the margin of the lake ; but notwithstanding this, the laboui
proceeded and was rewarded for a time by an abundance of rich
ore. Croftou Croker asserts that "during the four year.-; that
Ross mine was worked, nearly £80,000 worth of ore was disposed
of at Swansea, some cargoes producing £40 per ton."
The old shaft at the south point of the island, and close to
the shore, is now filled by a blue pool of forbidding depth.
There can be no doubt that these mines have been worked at
an early period, whether by the Danes or not it is difficult to
say. Colonel Hall's miners found several rude stone hammers
of a very early make, besides other unequivocal proofs of pre-
occupation of the mines.
Ross Castle, now in ruins and clad with ivy, is a picturesque
object from some positions on the lake, and near it there is a con-
venient landing-place. From tlie summit is obtained a most
delightful view. Admission by ticket issued for the Home and
Western Parks ; gratuities are strictly prohibited. The castle
was built by one of the O'Donoghues. In 1652 it held out against
the English, and was the last in Munster to surrender. On the
26th July, Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the County Cork,
and many of his followcis slain, among whom was a Kerry chieftain,
Macgillicuddy, who held a commission as colonel. Retreating
to Ross Castle, he held out against the repeated attacks of
KILLARNEY : MUCKROSS ABBEY 163
General Ludlow, and not until "ships of war" were seen upon
the lake did the garrison give in. An old prophecy had declared
Ross impregnable till ships should surround it ; and the Irish
soldiers, looking upon the prophecy as accomplished, would not
strike a blow. Ludlow in his memoirs thus narrates the
incident : —
" When we had received our boats, each of which was capable of contain-
ing 120 men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the water, in order to
find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy, which they
perceiving thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent the danger that
threatened them." After the surrender 5000 of the Munster men laid down
their arms.
If Muckross be the evening destination of the tourist, or if he
desires in the same day to visit the abbey, he would do
well to pull to the south-east corner of the lake, and there
land.
KILLARNEY TO MUCKROSS ABBEY, TORC, ETC.
Muckross Village lies 3^ miles south from Killarney Railway
Station. It is as delightful as it is small, charmingly wooded,
and contains two comfortable hotels (see p. 150). The cycling
between this and Killarney is shocking.
The Abbey of Muckross (the " peninsula of the pigs ") is on
the Herbert demesne. At the lodge gates — (1) opposite the
Muckross hotels, or (2) about \ mile short of that — the visitor,
on payment of a shilling {visitors from Mvxkross Hotels free) is
admitted into the grounds of Muckross, and, passing down in
the direction of the lake, observes to his right, on a little knoll
surrounded by trees, among which the yew is conspicuous, the
ruins of the abbey. It was founded in 1340 for the Franciscans,
and is, as Thackeray said, " the prettiest little hijoxo of a ruined
abbey ever seen — a little chapel with a little chancel, a little
cloister, a little dormitory, and in the midst of the cloister a
huge yew-tree which darkened the whole place." The simple
but effective tracery of the E. window is as pleasing as that of
the similar windows in the monasteries of Adare. An inscription
in the choir records the restoration which was made in the 17th
century. The large fireplace of the kitchen was taken posses-
164 ASCENT OF MANGERTON
sion of by a hermit of the name of John Drake about a hundred
years ago, who lived here for eleven years. Here lies buried the
late Mr. Herbert, M.P. for Kerry, sometime Chief Secretary for
Ireland.
Visitors to this lovely spot on a summer's evening will feel the pathos of
the farewell uttered by the grandfather of the present owner : " Oh, sweet
Muckross," cried the dying lord of the soil, "how can I leave you ! "
Muckross Abbey Mansion, in the Elizabethan style, was built
from a design by Mr. Burn of London. From various points in
the demesne good views of the lake and surrounding scenery are
obtained. By a good road we make the circuit of the domain
and the islands Brickeen and Dinish and join the high road,
about a mile from Tore Cottage. In hidden watery nooks
among these woods, covered by shrubs, large ferns, and moss,
grow isolated patches of that botanical treasure the Trichomanes
speciosum. Its miniatm-e, the Hymenophyllwm Tunbridgense,
grows in vast luxuriance on every rock moistened by the spray
of a waterfall or the trickling of all but imperceptible streams.
Tore Cascade is about 1^ mile to the south of Muckross
Abbey. The visitor is admitted by a small gate on payment of
6d. The gravel walk leads up a valley lined with larch on the
one side, and holly, birch, oak, alder and albutus on the other ;
a rough wooden seat is gained, and the famous and deservedly
popular view of the cascade bursts suddenly upon the view.
To the left a circuitous footpath leads to a spot from whence
is obtained a view of the iliddle and Lower Lakes, with the
peculiar peninsula of wooded rock which separates them.
THE ASCENT OF MANGERTON.
2756 feet.
Muckross to summit, 5 miles ; Killarney Station, 8i. A car carries the
tourist to the foot of the mountains, where ponies can be obtained for
the journey to the sunnuit.
The views are very line, embracing an extent of scenery which
gradually expands as we ascend. Four miles from Muckross we
come to the Devil's Punch Bowl. Near the lower bank of the
Punch Bowl, not far from the ascending path, there is a fine
echo ; in fair \ve;ither a magnificent view is got on reaching the
summit. Those who do not care for such views, or cannot endure
ASCENT OF THE REEKS 185
fatigue, may ascenil the road as far as Urumroiuk Hill, behind
the Mackross Hotel, where views of a romantic and agreeable
character may be obtained without fatigue.
It is usual to return by the same route. Many, however, will
prefer to turn off (under the direction of a guide) to Glena-
coppal, or the Glen of the Horse, lying between Mangerton
and Stoorapa.
Lough Guitane is a good lake for an angler, Init the scenery
around it is dreary, and has nothing in common with the
Killarney lakes.
ASCENT OF THE REEKS.
3414 feet.
The distance from Killarney to the summit of Carntual or
" Carrantuohill " ("the inverted reaping-hook ") is 15 miles. The
ascent is steep and generally made from the Owenacullin River
valley on the north-east side. For this route proceed from
Killarney as if for Dunloe Gap ; and about ^ mile after crossing
Beaufort Bridge turn (right) by the Barracks, and so up across
the Owenacullin river to the Gaddagh. Start q^iite early and
choose a fine day. If inexperienced, be not too proud to take a
guide (see page 155).
A good descent may be made (4 miles) in an E.S.E. direction,
to the Gearhameen end of the Dunloe road just south of the Gap.
EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA, WATER-
VILLE AND PARKNASILLA.
The excursion round the Waterville promontory has been
well called by an enthusiastic cyclist^ " the finest circular run in
Ireland," and should the tourist's time in Killarney be limited
we should advise him to secure the first good day, after doing
the Lakes there, for this splendid bit of the country. The pro-
montory is about 40 miles long by 18 wide on the average, and
concentrates into those limits more beauty of mountain, loch,
and coast than any similar space in Ireland.
There are several ways of doing the excursion, the principal being : — (1)
Killarney to Carragh Lake, Cahirciveen and Valentia by train, and to Water-
1 Mr. Mecredy in his Road Book of Ireland (southern part).
166 VALENTIA ISLAND
ville by road ; next day to Sneem, Parknasilla, and Kenmare by road ; (2) by
Qlencar to Caragh Lake ; back to Qlencar and on by Ballaugbasheen Pass
to Waterville ; Waterville to KiUarney by Sneem and Gerah Orossways. The
coast scenery between Cahirciveen and Sneem is all very good.
Taking the entire round by the coast (see (1) above), those
who do not cycle to Caragh Lake by Gleiicar (27^ miles) will prob-
ably use the railway through Fan'anfore Junction and Killorglin
to Caragh Lake (29 miles ; Hotel: The Southern, first class, about
J mile from station). This beautifully shaped lough lies in a
delightful valley, well wooded, between the Reeks and the head
of Dingle Bay.
It is a good centre for exploring the Reeks and the Waterville
promontory. "The salmon and trout fishing on the lake are
quite first rate," and there is a golf course.
From Caragh Lake the rails pass under the north foot of Scefin
(1621 ft.) and reach Glenbeigh (33 miles ; com/ortable Hotel). We
soon get a fine view down Dingle Bay, and beyond Mountain
Stage station, as the train curves slowly round the precipitous
slopes, there are some grand bits that pass all too quickly.
Notice Brandon Hill over Kells Bay.
Cahirciveen (pop. 2200 ; pronounced Cdh-ir-siveen ; 47 miles ;
Hotel : Leslie's, good) is a good centre for the Valentia scenery.
The i)rincipalbnildingis thelargeR.C. O'Connell Memorial Church.
Excursions sUvrt from Leslie's Hotel for Ballycarbery Castle and places on
Dingle Bay, Valentia Island, the Skellig Rocks, and Waterville. Full details
of these can be obtained by writing to the hotel proprietor.
Valentia Island can be reached from Cahirciveen by boat
(about 3 miles) ; or road ^j; miles) ; or rail to Harbour station
and thence by ferry ; or by road to Portmagee (9| miles) and
thence by furry.
A good hotel, recently enlarged, stands facing the feiTy and close to the
pier. A 5 minutes' walk will bring the visitor to the station of the Anglo-
American Telegraph Company, to which, upon production of an order or pre-
sentation of a visiting-card, the visitor can be admitted during the mornings.
In the instrument-room work goes on night and day upon four Atlantic cables,
working upon the duplex system, sending and receiving simultaneously.
There is a great variety of scenery in and around Valentia, in which is
situated Glanleam, the residence of Sir Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry
(a descendant of the " Black Knight "), about 2 miles from the Royal
Hotel and Post Offlce. The grounds of Glanleam contain some rare shrubs
WATERVILLE 167
6nd tlie largest fuchsia in the kingdom. The Slate Quarries and the Fogher
Clifl's are well worth a visit ; from these there is a grand view of the wild
coast, mountains, and Cahirciveen. There is a lighthouse at the entrance of
the harbour between the islands of Valentia and Beginnis, and an old tower
at the western end of the island, at Bray Head.
From the hotel at Knightstown, at a distance of 4J miles, is the ferry for
Portmagee, a fishing village from whence is a road which makes a junction
with the main road from Cahirciveen to Waterville.
The two islands called the Skelligs stand out about 8 miles south-west
of Bray Head, the southern point of Valentia, and their striking outlines
are a marked feature in the coast views between that point and Kenmare
river.
On the Great Skelllg is a remarkable specimen of one of the earliest
monasteries. Nearing tlie eastern side " we see the round roofs of its cells,
540 feet above us, clinging to the ridge like swallows' nests, the most western
of Christ's fortresses in the ancient world." 'i- It is dedicated to St. Michael.
"There are still remaining," says Miss Stokes, "600 steps cut by the monks
in the cliff. . . . The island has been the scene of annual pilgrimages for
many centuries, and the service of the Way of the Cross is still remembered
here ; different points and turnings in the cliffs being named after the
different stations, such as the Garden of the Passion, Christ's Saddle, the
atone of Pain," etc. On the upper terrace are " five cloghauns of dry stone,"
or bee-hive liuts, in wonderful preservation ; on the second terrace are the
church of St. Michael, "an older oratory," monks' cemetery, incised crosses,
and wells. Then below is that wonderful cashel or protecting wall, which
ao aistonished Lord Dunraven ; and the "monks' garden."
Waterville {Hotels: Southern ; Bay View ; Butler Anns) is a
delightful centre for tourists exploring this beautiful coast, or
for the angler, who will find fair white trout and other fishing.
The bathing is good ; and the western end of Lough Currane
(3^ miles long), which extends up to the village, is separated
from the sea of Ballinskelligs Bay by the narrow barrier of land
on which are the hotels, and the excellent road which attracts
so many cyclists.
On Church Island, in the lough, are interesting remains of St. Finian's
early church of the type of those on Great SkelUg. The most interesting
inland ruin, however, is Stalgue Fort (14 miles, on the road to Sneem),
which, according to Miss Stokes, " may have been in existence two centuries
or more before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland." 2 Mr. West-
1 See the very interesting description of this in the R.S.A.I. Handbook,
iii. 1898.
2 C. P. Kaine Jackson, in Our Ancient Momiments, attributes this
" military erection . . . to a diite earlier than the 10th century." In general
characters it may be compared to Dun Aengus in Aran (see Galway).
168 PARKNASILLA
ropp considers it " one of the most perfect and interesting caJicrf of out
island " ; but tlie meaning of tlie name Staigue, and even the purpose of its
builders are matters of dispute. Its unique feature is that "the walls are
divided into ten bays by flights of steps crossing each other like an X."
Valentia is 12 miles distant; SkelUgs, 16 miles; Cahirciveen Station,
12 miles ; Ballaugliasheon Pass, 14i miles ; Ooomaklsta, 3 miles ; Derry-
nane, 7 miles ; Sneem, 23 miles ; Parknasilla, 25J miles; Kenniare, 88J miles;
Killarney, 60 miles.
From Waterville southwards there is a fine road for cyclists
through magnificent scenery. This ascends in 3 miles to the
shoulder of Coomakista, where the grandeur of the view is
indescribable.
A superb panoram.! here of sea and coast, complex -.vith i.slands of all shapes
and sizes, from Scariff and Deenish, on the right, to the dim crags of
the Bull, the Cow, and the dimmer Calf at the far end of the Mi.skish Moun-
tains, and " far away the unquiet bright Atlantic Sea."
About IJ mile further, a glade (right) leads to Derrynane House, the
ancestral home of the Liberator O'Connell. Permission to see the house and
the O'Connell relics is sometimes granted. Half a mile beyond is Mrs.
Keating's charming little hotel, fairly covered with fuchsia and flowering
shrubs. Lord Dunraven's shooting-lodge is near ; and on the .shore of the
bay the niins of Derrynane Abbey, founded in the Gth century.
The main road is reached in 2 nulcs at Caherdanicl, 4J miles
from Coomakista and 4 miles short of Castle Cove. A rough
road of 2^ miles, on the left, leads up to Staigue Fort (p. 167).
At 23 miles from Waterville we reach Sneem [inn). Passing
the direct Killarney road (left) the coast road reaches, in 2 miles
farther, the entrance to the beautiful grounds of the Southern
Hotel at Paxknasilla.
This has been built near the earlier hotel, which was bought by the Com-
pany from Dr. Graves, Bi-shop of Limerick, who used it as a summer palace.
No ordinary connoisseur, indeed, was the bishop. The place is a paradise.
Nor are its beauties confined to the hotel grounds, but the adjoining Derry-
quin, the islands off the inlet, and the neighbouring shores all have their
share. With tlie advantage of a mild climate and its unusual facilities for
Bea-fi-shing, bathing, and boating, this is a very garden of delights in both
hummer and winter. A launch is also provided by the hotel for water trips
to various places of interi'st.
There are daily coaches to Waterville and Kenmare. DisUinti's— Gariuisli
Island, 30 minutes; Sneem, 2Jrailes; K<).ssdohan,lJmile; Kilmakilloge,4Jmile.«i;
Coomakista, 22 miles ; Waterville, 2r> miles ; Bl.ickwater Bridge, 6 miles ;
Kenmare, 15 miles ; Killarney (1) by Gerah Cross and Bealalaw, -lOJ miles,
(2) by Gerah Cross and Windy Gap, 33i miles ; Glenear (by same), 23i miles.
FROM KILLARNEY TO DINOLE 169
Tliere are, as is shown above, alternative wnyn of getting to
Killarney from Parknasilla. The worst for cyclists, and the
dullest is by Kenmare.
EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE
PROMONTORY.
Take the train to Tralee (22 miles ; Hotels: Benner's, Central;
t?ie Dominican cJmrch is the best building), and there, changing over
to the Dingle Railway, book to Castlegregorj', 16 miles (or, if no
train, to Castlegregory Junction, 6 miles short of it). Thence it
is a wild and interesting road of 16 miles over Connor Pass to
Dingle. This should certainly be prefen-ed to the approach to
Dingle by the rail, which can be used on your return.
At Castlegregory Junction or "Camp" there is an inn (Mrs.
Crean's) ; and about 1^ mile off, on the coast, is Kilgobbin,
with the most neglected burial-ground in Ireland. There is
some fishing in the central loughs that is little known at
present. Castlegregory (16 miles; Hotels: T. O'Connor's
(small) ; Mrs. Spillane's) rejoices in the dirtiest thorough-
fares in the kingdom, and the "local Board" overlooks such
trifles as sea-weed heaps, old shoes, geese, and dirt ! At
Stradbally {2\ miles) is the last inn ; at Kilcummin (4^ miles)
the scenery begins with the foliage. This delightful little bit
of Brandon Bay may some day be duly appreciated. Then at
Kilmore the climb begins (8 miles). Connor Pass (1300 feet),
is very fine, and well repays the toil. Cyclists will find the
surface good. After 3 or 4 miles of descent,
Dingle (pop. 1800; Hotels: Lee's; Benner's) is reached.
It is an old harbour town, built on a steep hill rising from
Dingle Bay, It is the best centre for the wild western scenery
of this promontory, much of which is good ; and the neighbour-
hood abounds in romantic remains and ruins of great antiquarian
interest. For the remarkable geological character of this district
see Hull, Phys. Geol. and Geog. of I. p. 33.
Take the first opportunity of seeing Slea Head and Coume-
noole (11 miles), with the grand bits of coast scenery they afford.
About 4 miles beyond Ventry (4 miles) are the ancient forts of
"the city of Fahan," a most remarkable settlement of early
170 FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE
"dry" stoue forts and beehive cells (see E. S.A.I. Journal,
1898).
The Blasket Islands aio to Dingle what the Skelligs are to Waterville.
Inishtuskart, to the north of them and marked by its queer coxcomb-rock,
contains one of St. Brendan's oratories ; but neither this nor the church on
the Great Blasket ha\'e been yet fully explored.
The excursion to Smervrlok Harboiir (OJ miles) is of quite exceptional
interest to the searcher after early Christian remains, and is probably the
chief scene of the romantic St. Brendan's labours. At about 5i miles is seen,
just below on the left, the white stono roof of the Oratory of Gallerus,i
like an up-turned boat. This, as a specimen of dry rubble masonry,
"excels," says Mr. Romilly Allen, "anything of its kind." The door, with
hinges, is at the west end and opposite the east window, which has a serai-
circular head. All the interior faces of the stones are cut to shape ; and
above the east window are tliree pegs, used perhaps for lamps or book-
satchels. It may be of date earlier than the 7th century.
"The district is strewn broadcast with a bewildering profusion of anti-
quities. Hitchcock notes 21 churches, 12 large stone crosses, 15 oratories,
7<3 holy wells." 2
About I mile north-west of Gallerus oratory is a coitle ; and 1 mile due
north, after passing (left) the stone forts and cells of Caherdorgan, the road
makes an angle at Kllmalkedar, which teems with ancient remains. {Tea at
schoolhmise.)
The place seems to have had some connection with St. Brendan (p. 171) ;
and the present 12th-century churcli stands on the one founded by " Maol-
cethair, ' of royal blood, before 033 (IF^.'fro/ip).-'' Tlie present choir of the
church seems to have replaced "an older and narrower" one. The feature
is the inner arcading of very unusual character. Observe the west door ; the
east window, locally "the fat man's window"; the font; the Y-.shaped flnial
from the gable; and the 7th-cc7itury " alphabet '.si on-e" in the churchyard.
Just to the south is an ancient enclosure covered by fuchsias ; in an adjoin-
ing pigstyo is an early cell ; near the school is the 15th century (?) " Brandon's
House"; and four fields away, north-west, is an oratory, with a stone altar.
A mile to the west is Smerwlck Harbour, with its noble Sybil Head
clills, and its memories of Frobisher ; of R;ilfigh ; and of Amyas Leigh keeping
liere his Christmas Day on tlie wild shore out "Westward Ho," with his
"plums for the Spaniards' Christmas ptulding." About G miles in the
opposite direction is the grand peak of Brandon Hill (3127 feet), crowned
with the "rude little oratory," which "marks," says tradition, "the place
where Brandon spent long years of prayer and meditation."*
1 The name, according to Bcv. T. Olden {n.I.A. 1895), is " probably
Ccal-arus," " the white house"— -i.e. a church. He compares Candida casa,
" Whit-herne " (on Solwaj ), where Melkcdar was educated. Has Collorus on
Kenmare nvr any connection ?
2 aee interesting and illustrated description of Gallerus and Kllmalkedar
by Westropp in n..'<.A.I. Journal, 18!»8.
» Rev. T. Olden spells the name Noel-celthair, " follower of Celtchair."
* Westropp. Miss Stokes compares the similar celU on Slieve Donard,
Slieve League, and Slieve GuUion.
c
FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE 171
St. Brendan, or Brandon, whose name still lingers along all our western
shores, appears to have been a native of Fenit, and to have been buried in
676 at Clonfert at the age of ninety-three in his own church there. The
story 1 of his discovery of America is difficult to believe ; but that he sailed
much among the western isles and dreamed "of some more sunny clime,
beyond the waste of waters," seems trustworthy tradition. Kingsley weaves
the saint's story into his Wat€r-Baiies, and tells how he "preached to the
wild Irish, he and five other hermits, till they were weary. ... So St.
Brandon went out to the point of Old Dunmore and looked . . . and far
away before the setting sun he saw a blue fairy sea and golden fairj' islands,
and he said, ' These are the i.slands of the blest.' Then he and his friends got
into a hooker and sailed away and away to westward, and were never heard
of more." The legend of Brendan's meeting with Judas Iscariot upon an
iceberg in "the northern main" may be found in a poem by Matthew
Arnold. (For other accounts see R.S.A.I. Journal, 1890-92 ; also O'Hanlon's
lAfe o/B. ; and D. Florence Maccarthy's poem.)
From Dingle the somewhat rickety railway to Castlegregory
Junction may be taken (22 miles).
1 See Csesar Otway's version.
172
GALWAY FROM DUBLIN,
BY Midland Great Western Railway, Broadstone Terminus.
ON RIOHT FROM
6r
g^ . STATIONS, ETC.
33
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
b. a
l£5
DUBLIN.
C 1
10
126J Dublin.
0
The Broadstone Ter-
ViLLAGK of GlAS-
125i minus is built of
1
PhcenixPabk. Wei-
NEViN, frequented by
! granite and com-
lington Obelisk
Addison, Swift, Tic-
bines the features
kell, Sheridan, etc.
of the Grecian and
Botanic Gardens of
Egyptian styles.
Royal Dublin
124 J
2
VicEKEOAL Lodge.
Society, and Ceme-
tery.
FiNOLAS.
123}
8
I22ij Blanchardstown.
•li
A village on the river
Tolka,2im. fromthe
station. It contains
anunnery and school.
121J
H
Castleknock, a ruin
on a wooded emi-
DoNsiNK. The Ob-
Hervatory of the
120
(^i
nence. The castle
was erected by Hugh
Tyrrdl, one of tlie
Royal Diiblin Society
followers of Henry
is on the summit of
II. It was taken by
Edward Bruce in
1 310, and by Colonel
a wooded hill.
119}
ClonsiUa.
7
Junction for Trim,
Mouck in 1612.
Navan, and Kells.
117}
Lucan.
Lucan, connected
also ^^•ith Dublin by
st«ani tramway, is
frequented on ac-
count of its BUl-
pliurous Spa. It was
the jjropt-rty of the
Sarslields, one of
whom was creat^'d
Earl of Lucan by
James 11. Tlie title
is now held by the
Bingliauis.
Br.overLiffey; enter
Kildare County,
0
The river Liftey falls
over a ledge of rock
in a beautiful cas-
cade. The vale is
well wooded.
173
GALWAY FROM BVBLm— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
si"
2 ^
STATIONS, ETC.
pis
ON LEKT FROM
DUBLIN.
^1
DUBLIN.
115J
Leixlip.
Leixlip Cnstle was
11
CoNFAT Castle. 114
erected in the 12tli
12i
The ruin of a tower,
century by Adam
being portion of a
Fitz-Hereford, and is
fortress founded evi-
still used as a resi-
dently by one of i
dence.
the early English |
settlers. 1
111^
Maynootb.
(See page 193.)
The castle, now in
ruins, was originally
built 1176 by Gerald
Fitzgerald. The
15
Taghadoe Round
Thb Royal College
OF St. Patrick.
massive keep and a
portion of the out-
works still remain.
TowEK, 2 m. dist.^"
Carton, ^ m. dist.,
the residence of
the Duke of Lein-
ster, a beautiful and
spacious structure
in the Grecian style.
The demesne ex-
tends along the 1
railway line.
107i
Klloock.
Is saitl to have de-
rived its name from
an ancient monas-
tery dedicated to St.
Cocha.
19
105J
Femslock.
21
DONADBA CaSTLK.
102
24i
Sepulchral Mount
AT Cloncurry. a
large mass of earth-
works, resembling
those known to con-
tain human remains.
Branch line to Eden» 1 00
Enfield.
20J
There is an old
beiTy, 105 miles. |
Tliis was an import-
church in ruins be-
side it. The place
j
ant posting station
gives the title of
before the opening of
Baron to the family
the railway.
of Lawless.
' 9S
Br. cr. river Black-
2Si
Ruins of Carbdey
'
1
water.
1
Castle, in the din-
174
GALWAY FROM BVBUl^— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
O f
STATIONS, ETC.
g3
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
tauce. Erected by
the Berminghams in
the 12th century
96
Moyvalley.
Br. cr. river Boyne,
and enter County
Meath. Boyne aque-
duct.
30i
33
90§
Hill of Dovra.
30
85
Klllucan.
Good black flagstone
quarries in the vi-
cinity.
41i
MuUingar, assize and
county town of West
Meath, with import-
ant fairs and mar-
kets for horses,
cattle, and agricul-
tural produce.
roi
Mullingar.
(Page 194.)
S^ Branches to
Cavan (35Jni.); and
to Longford(2(5 m.) ;
and SLiao (84 in.).
50
Louon Ennell,
which covers about
3400 acres, 5 in. iu
length by about IJ
mile in breadth.
Good fishing.
73
53*
RocKFOKT House.
71*
68J
Castletown.
55
58
Belvidere. The
grounds are ta.ste-
fuUy laid out, and
04*
Streamstown.
Branch to Clara, 8
ni.
0:2
comniand fine views
of Lough Ennell, or 1
Belvidwe Lake.
02i
Deep cutting through
limestone.
04
Laraqh Castle.
The ruin of a tower.
Ballindeury
COi
00
LouoH. Hi^re, oiutn
artificial island, were
58*
Moate.
OS
found, in 1850,
swords and spears,
and bones of cattle^,
horses, and pigs ;
also a canoe made
fioiii the hollowed
ti uuk of a Ireu.
A town on the old
coach road between
Galway and Dublin.
Adjoining it is a larjv
moat or rath.
75
MoYDRUM, the Beat
of Lord Caatleuiaiue.
17S
GALWAY FROM DVBLm— Continued.
178
LIMERICK.
Hotels. — Cruise's; the Glentworth ; the George; Prosser's (Temp.) ; Railway.
Distances.— Rail— Coik, 62 ; Killarney, 82 ; Tralee, 70 ; Limerick Junction,
21J; Enuis, 24§; Kilkee, 72J ; Gal way, 98^.
Road— Cork, C3J ; Castleislaud, 52J ; Killarney, 64} ; Tralee, 63i ;
Cashel, 37} ; Tipperary, 25; Adare, 11 ; Castleconnell, 8 ; Killaloe, 14} ;
Ennis, 21}.
Pop.— 37,155.
Steamer to Kilrush by the Lower Shannon (see 'pi7il- pages)
Ikish travelling in the thirties was a serious matter, says Mr.
Le Fanii. The journey between Limerick and Dublin was per-
formed by the night mail in 12 hours ; and by the mail-bags
were "the guard, or guards, who were armed with brass-barrelled
blunderbusses."
Though we find in the clean neatly-built streets of Limerick a
decided "business-air" and plenty to interest the passing tourist,
yet the visitor to Limerick, coming from Dublin or some large
English town, would hardly nowadays, we think, record as a
first impression the jotting we find in Arthur Young's diary under
5th September 1776 : — " It is exceedingly populous for the size,
the chief street quite crowded. . . . Upon the whole, Limerick
must he a very gay place." Mr. Young's memoranda of the jjiice
of provisions at the time are somewhat amusing. To note a
few only: — salmon were at "three-halfpence" per lb. ; "eels
2d. ; trout, 2d. ; and (happy days of yore !) oysters, 4d. to Is
a 100."
Limerick is finely situated on both banks of the Shannon, at
the head of the inlet known as the Lower Shannon, and is a
good centre for the Lower Shannon scenery. It became the
capital of the Danes, who were expelled from it by Brian
Boroimhe. From HOG until 1174, when it was conquered by
the English, it was the cai)ital of the kings of Thomoud or
North Munster.
""^
LIMERICK 177
The portion on "King's island" called English Town was
founded in the reign of King John by William de Bnrgo, who
built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifi-
cations were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in
1651 M'as taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690,
owing chiefly to Sarstield's energetic defence, was raised ; but
13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant
defender, and Sarsfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the
famous document which bound William to respect and protect
the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which
the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated
by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty, The prosperity
of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr.
Sexton Pery in 1769.
But apart from the honours which the long and checkered
history of the town has won for it, Limerick has fame of a
lighter kind ; it is celebrated for its bacon factories, its beautiful
lace, and, last but not least, for its beautiful women. "Upon
every car," wrote Thackeray, "which panses with ladies on it
you are sure (I don't know how it is) to see a pretty one."
Bridges.— English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery
by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Mathew {Kill-
arney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occu-
pying the site of a bridge of great autiquitj'. Thomond Bridge,
also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects
English Town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the
bridge stands the " Treaty Stone " mentioned above.
About a quarter of a mile to the south stands Sarsfield Bridge,
erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting the County of
Clare with Newtown-Pery. On this bridge a statue was erected
in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava.
There is a long line of quays running from the Sarsfield Bridge
to the floating docks, which, with the more recently con-
structed graving docks, have proved of great importance to the
town.
Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in this
part of the city, which is laid out almost with the regularity of
an American city, the streets being for the most part straight,
and crossing each other at right angles. George's Street, entered
from the station by Queen and Glenticorth Streets, contains the
principal shops and warehouses, many of them of imposing
12
178 LIMERICK
appearance. Westwards it is continued on the one side through
Richmond Place to the Military Road, and on the other along
Patrick Street through Rutland Street to New Bridge. It passes
through the west part of Irish Town, which is connected by the
same bridge with English Toivn ; the old gables of the houses
in both districts are noticeable. In Richmond Place there is a
statue of Daniel O'Connell erected in 1857.
In the People's Park, south-west of the railway station, is a
monument to Spring Rice — a lofty Ionic column surmounted by
a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper
Baker Street there is a handsome Clock-Tower, erected in 1867
in honour of Alderman Tait. A statue of General Sarsfield was
erected in 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral.
King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign
of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at
Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens
of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being
still in good preservation. Five massive towers are connected
by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing
the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries
ago during the different sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond
Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the
buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in
harmony with the older structure.
St. Mary's Protestant Episcopal Cathedral, in English Town
near New Bridge, is approached through a pleasant churchyard.
On each side of the entrance path are the pinnacles of Ireton's
House (or " Galwey's Castle"), which till late in the century stood
here. It occuiiies the site of the palace of Donald More O'Brien,
who, about the time of the arrival of the English, 1172 A.R.,
gave up certain of his lands "in free and perpetual alms" to
Brictius, then Bishop of Limerick. The diocese of Limerick
dates, however, from the 5th century, but the primitive cathedral,
which occupied the site of the present St. Mumhin's Church,
was destroyed in the 9th century.
The cathedral, rebuilt on the new site about 1180, was
enlarged in 1207 by the addition of a chancel. It sul)sequently
underwent alterations of various kinds. It was restored in 18G0.
Parts of the fine West Door are ancient, and the modern work
is good. The lower has a modern toji surmounted by the
"stepped" pinnacles and battlements of the Jerpoiiit character
LIMERICK 179
{KiUarney Sect. p. 137). Battlemented parapets of the .«ame kind
run round the nave and chancel.
Within is sombre gloom. There is little architectural orna-
ment besides the scraps of Norman mouldings and shafts spared
by a pitiless stucco-brush, and a fine bit of arcading in the S.
Transept. In the latter transept is the Galwey tomb ; and the
tracery of the near window of the adjoining South Aisle should
be observed. It is a network of interwoven "ogees" of un-
common design.
The remarkable misericorde seats of carved oak in the nave
are well worthy of notice. The old oak carving is a rare thing in
Ireland, and here this woodwork, probably cut about 1490, is "the
most curious feature of the church " {E.S.A.I. Jmirncd, 1895).
The arcading just outside the churchyard, and now in ruins,
is a remnant of the Old Exchange which was taken down with
Ireton's House some years ago (see above).
The bells are eight in number and in the key of F. The
oldest, the D and F bells, bear Latin inscriptions with the date
1673. During the siege of the city in 1690 a cannon was
mounted by the Irish on the battlements of the cathedral,
from which a shot, directed by a very skilful gunner of the name
of Burke, nearly proved fatal to King William.
St. John's Roman Catholic Cathedral is reached from St.
Mary's Cathedral by Mary and John Streets. It is adorned by
one of the handsomest spires in Ireland, and, within, by a dark
and elaborate stone rercdos over the great altar. Between the
south altars is a very beautiful marble statue by Benzoui of the
Virgin Mary — perhaps the work of art in Limerick.
The best of the other churches is that of the Rcdcmptorists, a
short walk southwards along George's Street and Military Road.
This large building contains in the north aisle an unusual bronze
statue of St. Peter (?), with toes polished to an unusual extent
by a curious and unusual means.
The best excursions are to Adare ; the Lower Shannon (steamer) ;
Oastlecounell ; Killaloe ; Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon
{steamer). For distances see p. 176.
Lockhart describes the visit of Sir Walter Scott to this city in 1825.
Amidst the ringing of the bells in honour of the event, there was ushered
in a "brother -poet," — a scarecrow figure, by name O'Kelly, wlio gave
intense amusement by the following modest parody of Dryden's epigram,
produced on the spur of the occasiou :—
180 EXCURSION TO AD ARE
Three poets, of three different nations bom,
The United Kingdom in this age adorn —
Byron of England, Scott of Scotia's blood.
And Erin's pride— O'Kdly, great and good !
Sir Walter was not long in finding five shillings for the " poet.'
EXCURSION TO ADARE.
This is an enjoyable trip and deserves a day of good sunny
weather. Starting out of the railway station tuin left, and
through a slum of liigh flavour. In | mile join the cross roads
(right) and then forward again. At Putrickswell, 5^ miles, notice
the Well (right) with its fragmentary carving, said to have been
broken by a soldier's bullet.
Adare Manor is the seat of the Earl of Dunraven. In the
demesne is one of the most remarkable assemblages of ruins in
the kingdom. The word Adare, in old documents AlMara, the
Ford of the Oak, sufficiently indicates the character of the trees
which once lined the banks of the Maigue.
Entering Adare Village {railway stativn f mile north ; Cregan's
Hotel, good country house, rather dear) we cross the Maigue,
near to the ruined castle (left). Tickets for the Manor House
should be obtained previously at 66 George Street, Limerick.
The history of Adare goes back to the erection of the Rath, the early fort
on which the castle of the Normans was bnilt about the twelfth century.
Around this and the church, also built then by the invaders, grew the
Norman town which was populous enough in 1226 to obtain the Englisli
king's grant for an annual fair. Then large religious houses were e.stablished,
and the town enclosed within walls, which have now practically disappeared.
" At the commencement of the present century Adare had dwindled down
to a collection of thatched cottages," numbering less than two dozen (Duw-
raven Memori(ds) ; but with the coming of the second Earl of Dunraven
(1824-1S50), fortune smiled upon it again. Prosperity attracted more residents,
and before his death the population had risen to 1000.
Tlie Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For
a view of the House (see above note about admissioyi) turn right
when the path forks witliin. It is a fine modern mansion built
in 1832, and " the greater portion " was "designed by an amateur,
a mason named ConoUy, . . . not a single drawing having
been furnished by an architect " {Memorials),
The Quin family is from the younger branch of the descendants of OlloU
Olum, King of Munster in the 3rd century.
EXCURSION TO ADARE 181
Tlie left road from the above fork leads to the Poor or Francis-
can Abbey, said to be the most celebrated of all the Munster
monasteries. The fouudation stone was laid in 1464, but most
of the arches and much of the work are rude and plain. The
effective tracery of the south and east ivindows is similar to that
at the Augustinian Abbey, and at Muckross, Killarney. One is
reminded of the latter ruin also by the cloisters on the N. side,
much darkened by a giant central yew-tree {Killarneij Sect. p. 163).
Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the
remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known
to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some
years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of
'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown,"
and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It M'as
dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove
for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Eath, the
ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward.
Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The
chancel contains probably the original Norman walls, is "about
the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from
something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used
for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the August-
inian building.
On the left (or west) as you come out of tlie Village Gate Is the Wlllte
Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The chiu-ch,
which is now the R.C. Church, was at the beginning of the centiu-y a ball-
alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store.
Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good in-
terior is beautified by the reredos screen.
The adjoining Fountain was the gift of the (second) Countess, 1S51.
Close to the Bridge, and nearer Limerick, is the Black Abbey of the
Augustinians, founded in 1315 ; part of which is used as the Protestant
Church. The slender proportions of the tower, as of th-at of the Franciscan
Abbey, ^vill strike the visitor, as well as the " Muckross " tracery of the east
window of the Church. This was restored in 1852, but the interior is still
choked up, not only by the heavy tower supports, but by the Dunraven
Ijews. The later cloisters have a lavatory sink ; the Refectory is now the
school. (The Historical Notes or>. Adare by T. E. Bridgett are excellent though
6maU ; they give extracts from the Dunraven Memorials. See also Limerick
Field Club Journal.)
182
LIMERICK TO KILRUSH AND KILKEE.
(a) By train, 72 miles through Enuis, see p. 19-2.
(6) By steamer on the Shannon to Kilnish, thence by train to Kilkee.
A bUl of sailing, with fares, should be obtained from Lower Shannon
Office, Limerick, or Kilmsh.
Shortly after leaving the quay at Limerick vre pass on the left,
or County Limerick side the beautiful demesne of Lord Emly, at
the extremity of whose property the rocky eminence of Carrig-o'-
Gunnel (Rock of Connel), crowned by the picturesque ruins of an
ancient castle, forms a prominent object of the landscape. The
castle, originally founded by the Knights Templar, was blown up
and dismantled after its surrender to the forces of AVilliam III.
in 169L
On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are
the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side.
Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of
Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse,
the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the
Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of
the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ;
and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind
Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel
river, on which is —
ASKEATOS (railway station), remarkable for its ancient bnildings. Its Xonnan
castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey
(1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting.
Four miles inland, and south from Askeaton, is Ballingrane Junction,
which is 2 miles from EathkeaU station. Here is another Desmond Castle
and several ancient bmldings, including an "Early English" Prior}-. At
the beginning of the last centxiry some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate
settled in this neighbourhood.
Then, leaving the disused pier of Foynes on our left, we put
in on certain days in the week at Kildysart, which serves the
wide trainless district betT\-een Ennis and Kilrush. On other
days the steamer continues until Redgpap, on Labasheeda Bay,
is reached. A little beyond, and on the opposite side of the
Shannon, is the bright, well-built \-illage of Glin.
Glin Castle has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called
the " Red Knight," to distinguish this branch of the Fitzgerald fiimily from
those of the White Knight, and the Black Knight (of Kerry).
TARBERT — SCATTERY ISLAND 183
About 5 miles from Redgap, along this well-named "idle
river," are the tall liglithouse and crumbling pier of Tarbert
(Hotel) ; Listowel Railway station is 12^ miles away (Coach).
From Listowel it is by rail 50| miles to Limerick ; to Tralee, 19J
miles ; and 9^ miles to Ballybunnion.
Ballybimnion (Castle HoM), on the south of the Shannon, on the Kerry
coast, is a favourite seaside resort, and has many attractions — a beautiful
beach, high cliffs with caves and natural rock-arches of wondrous forma-
tion, and most interesting walks in all directions. It is connected with
Listowel by a "Lartigue" railway, the first constructed in the United
Kingdom. The rail is a single one, raised 3 feet from the ground.
A special Government (Balfour) boat plies locally between Tarbert and
Kilrush, thus connecting the south-side coach with the north-side train
service.
Soon after leaving Tarbert the round tower of Scattery
Island comes into view, and beyond it Loop Head, dim and far.
The older name of Scattery is Inis (the island) Cathaig (of the Cathach).
The latter was a monster, mastered and chained by St. Senan, who founded
in the 6th century cells and oratories in County Cork, the islands of the
Fergus, on Mutton Island, and upon this island. IIo died in 544, and is re-
vered as patron in several French churches. The monastery became famous
and attracted Kieran, founder of Clonmacnoise, who became an official.
Even St. Aidan, " founder of Lindisfarne, and con.sequently predecessor of
the Bishops of Durham," may perhaps have been the Aidan who lived here.
We read of the house being destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen,
devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured and long
held by the English. Granted as a fishing village to Limerick in later days,
it passed to the mayor of that city, who "asserted his rights by shooting an
arrow into the river west of the island " (Killarncy Sect. p. 115).
The legend of St. Cannara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that
holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request—
I come with humble heart to share
Thy morning and thy evening prayer.
But the good lady met with as stern a refusal as the gentle Kathleen of Glen-
dalough, and being a relative of St. Senan was allowed only to receive the
Blessed Eucharist, and, after death, was buried on the foreshore.
There is an interesting description of the ruined buildings of
Scattery in the E. S.A.I. Handbook, 1898 [Wcstropi)) ; a few
notes will here suffice. The Bound Tower is the tallest in
Ireland, and is exceptional in having a door on the ground level.
Miss Stokes notes that as its masonry is not "hammer-dressed,"
it may be dated among the earliest (9th to 10th century). The
184 KILRUSH— KILKEE
Cathedral, between the tower and the shore, is of the same
date ; it has a good specimen of the early west doors. The
Clogh Oir, or "Golden Bell" of Senan is still preserved by the
Keane family of Ennis, hereditary keeper ("coarb") of the
treasure, and Miss Stokes believes it to be "the very bell used by
the founder." On the north side of the cathedral is an Oratory
of large and early masonry, with a romanesij[ue chancel arch of
later date. West of the tower is the Well (or "tober") of Senan; and
Temple Senan is a chapel, much rebuilt, on high ground, some
170 yards away to the north. Tradition says that Ard-na-n-
Angeal, 300 yards south-west of tower, is the height on which
the saint communed with the angel before defcatiTig the
"cathach." Tiiere are also ruins of the later Temple-a-Marv
(of the dead), and a 16th-century Castle.
Kilrush {Hotel : Vandeleur Arms) is our last pier. From this
small market town it is 8^ miles by train to Kilkee ; and for
the journey a special train (not always published) awaits the
K ' arrival of steamers.
^^
Kilkee (pop. 1556 ; Hotels : Moore's ; Central ; Stella Maris ;
Victoria ; Royal Marine), 9 miles north-west from Kilrush,
Is reached by train from Kilrush, or by light railway from
Ennis. It is one of the most charming watering-places in
Ireland, finely situated in the neighbourhood of a great variety
of magnificent rock scenery. The bay is sheltered from the
waves of the Atlantic by a ledge of the Duganna rocks. The
town is built close to the sea, along a semicircular strand with
a bright, smooth sandy surface. Baths have been erected near
the beach, and there are also chalybeate springs. Irish moss is
found in great quantities in tlie neighbourhood.
Puffing Hole, Look-out Cliff, the Amphitheatre, and Bishojj's
Island are all bits of this remarkable coast that well rejiay the
visitor.
The latter has an eaily oratory ; and legend places here a bishop, wlio
fled from the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store.
When, however, the famine and his own Care were alike at an end, and this
fasting philanthropist sought to return, the raging sea had widened the
chasm and chained him to his solitary fate. In tlie bay, bfhiiid, the
Intrinsic perished in 1835, amid scenes of great distress. Above the sinking
ship and drowning women a seagull wa-s seen to hover ; and soon after the
same bird tuined shoreward and dropped among the people on tlie cliff a
Ia<Jy'g glove (see R.S.A.I. Journnl, and Mrs. Nott's Two MontUs al Kilkee).
LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC. 185
Tlie Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is
best visited by boat from the liarbour, a tine view being in this
way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched
entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in lieight. Our attention is
at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites
depending from the roof, and the "variety of rich metallic tinges
from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in
solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradu-
ally diminishes in height.
By a general consensus of opinion the bathing is allowed to
be equal to any to be found in the British Isles ; the best accom-
modation is on the south side of the deepl}' retiring bay.
The walks along the coast are of great interest, especially
southwards, round and beyond the golf links. The dark rocks
of chipping flakes, hollowed beneath and broken into fantastic
shapes by the waves, form a grand setting to the luminous blues,
greens, and snowy foam of the Atlantic breakers.
Loop Head (lo7ig car from Kilkee), properly Leap Head, or
Cuchullin'sLeap, is 16 miles away. The traditionis that Cuchulliu,
a knight of Ulster, on being pursued by a termagant woman called
Ma?, reached the extremity of Clare, and discovering that she
was still close in pursuit, leapt on to a small rock about 25 feet
from the mainland. The termagant succeeded also in reaching
the rock, whereupon Cuchullin immediately leapt back, but the
woman, not succeeding in her second attempt to follow him, fell
into the waves and perished.
From Kilkee there is a railway by Miltown Malbay (20 miles),
and Lahinch (26|) to Eunis (47) ; and the opening of the West
Clare Railway in 1887 has rendered the region more easily
accessible from all parts of Ireland.
LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL (FALLS OF DOONAS),
KILLALOE, AND LOUGH DERG.
Castleconnell (Falls of Doonas) may be reached in three ways
— by rail, by boat on the Shannon, or by car.
{a) The railway runs with the Tipperary line as far as Kil-
lonan (4 m. ), and then turns north to the Shannon and Castle-
connell (9 m.).
IICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC.
Eight miles farther along the Tipperary line is Boher Station. Four miles
, "^N.B. from this, at the foot of the Slievefelim Mountains, is Abinglon, where
V Mr. W. R. Le Fanu's father was rector, and where the delightful writer him-
> self spent his boyhood. The Park at Glenstal, the beautiful seat of Sir C.
^ -N^ ^ Barrington, was the favourite playground of Mr. Le Fanu and his brother ;
^ i - and in his " Seventy Years of Irish Life" he tells, among many stories of
' ^ i <»^^ Limerick district, the romantic history of the Ilchester Oak which
, ■ stands in the park.
JS '»><-r (&) If a boat be taken you may pass through the canal to
f .4 1 ^ the Shannon, with its richly - wooded banks and demesnes.
'"■^"'^^On the left the prospect is bounded by the mountainls of
J Clare, and on the right by the turret - crowned hill of New-
castle, once famous for its racecourse. A mile farther on we
"reach Plassy, the seat of Mr. Russell, and passing the Ennis
• Railway bridge, which here crosses the river, we come to the
^rapids called Hickey's Falls. Towards the right are the
y ^venerable ruins of Castle Troy, the ancient seat of the Keaghs,
> Xwith its walls rising to a great height from a foundation which
1 <i^seems to have been sunk in the river's bed.
■i'j Passing the demesne of Mountshannon, which extends for
■^v ^more than a mile along the right bank of the river, we reacli the
""v^Falls of Doonas (page 187), overlooked by the old keep of
5 «i Castleconnell, while in the distance on the left is Doonas House,
^ ^-^he ancient seat of the Massys, and the residence of the Dowager
^ ' Lady Massy, and on the right, Hermitage, the residence of Lord
"^ Massy.
(c) By car Castleconnell is about 9 miles from Limerick, the
road passing through a finely-wooded country which extends to
the base of the mountains. Just before reaching two porter-lodges
opposite the first gate to Hermitage, the car may be sent on to
the inn at Castleconnell, 2 miles farther, and a by-road taken to
the left, by which, after a walk of about three-quarters of a mile,
^ ^ we can reach the foot of the rapids, and then follow the banks of
J^ ■' ^ the river, past the old keep on the opposite bank, till we reach
^ J the village.
^ A '^
. ^ >• Castleconnell (pop. 334 ; Hotel : Tlie Shannon), 1\ miles from
^^ ^ Killaloe and 9| miles from Limerick by rail, is finely situated
s! ^ 5on the Shannon, overlooking the Falls of Doonas. In the
■' '^ ' ^ vicinity of the village tliere is a chalybeate spring, at one time
V ,;much frequented. The beauty of the scenery still attracts a
j[]arge number of visitors in summe*.
■S
)
l|-
rf
^
FALLS OF DOONAS— KILLALOE 187
The village takes its name from au old castle of the O'Briens,
kings of Muuster, which crowns a high and solitary rock over-
looking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe
is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of
Thomond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly
murdered him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by
Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held
out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days.
The Prince of Hesse commanded the attack. Like most other
castles which fell into the Hanoverian hands, it was blown up
with gunpowder. Huge masses of stone and lime disfigure the
face of the rock, and attest the force of the explosion.
Though we can scarcely agree with some that Castleconnell
is "at the top of the angling centres of Ireland," it is to be
undoubtedly ranked high upon the fisherman's list. The salmon-
fishing is strictly preserved {agents, Enright and Son, Castle-
connell), but the trout and pike fishing is free. A cast of a
40 lb, salmon, now in the Dublin Museum, indicates what may
be the angler's lot here. The rods to which the place gives its
name are well known.
O'Bkien's Bridge crosses the Shannon a few miles above Castleconnell.
In 1537 Conor O'Brien, King of Tliomond, had aided " Silken Thomas " in his
rebellion against Henry VIII. The King determined to subdue Conor, and
ordered the Lord Deputy, Lord Leonard Gray, to compel him to renounce
the Papal supremacy and swear allegiance to the English King. Conor not
only did so, but promised to help the English in breaking the bridge. The
present stnicture, however, bears such a venerable aspect tliat we might
almost believe it to be the identical O'Brien's Bridge.
The Falls or Rapids of Doonas, reached from the station
by a by-road turning off to the left, cannot be said to have their
parallel or likeness in any river in Ireland or Great Britain.
Always strikingly picturesque, they attain, when the river is in
flood, a high degree of impressiveness. The great breadth of
the river, and the innumerable rocky islets, some bare and
dark, others having stunted trees or shrubs, which interrupt
the current, are the chief elements in, perhaps, one of the
Shannon's finest bits of scenery.
Killaloe (pop. 1079 ; Hotels: Royal ; Shannon View), by rail
17J miles north-north-east of Limerick, and at the south end of
Lough Derg, is a very ancient town.
188 LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC.
The first church was founded here in the 5th ceutury by St.
Dalua, ■\v])o gave his name to the place, and was succeeded by
Flannan in this bishopric. The oldest church in the town is the
little chapel close to the cathedral, with a very high-pitched
roof; this " Petrie considers ... to be attributed to St.
Flannan " {Murray). The massive tower of the Norman
Cathedral is that building's most striking feature ; the upper
brown part with battlements is much later than the gray portion
beneath. There is a very elaborate Norman Door inside the
church (south wall), which may perhaps have led to King
O'Brien's tomb.
"Kinkora," the palace of King Brian Boru, once stood, so
says the story, near the bridge of Killaloe, and to this legend
the poet alludes in the lines quoted ou ^lage 32 {Dublin Sect.).
Just above tlie bridge is the salmon tceir, and just below are the
eel weirs and tanks, all evidences that it is to the visiting angler
that Killaloe looks for a reputation rather than to the looal
celebrities, who, though always "to the Irish language thrue,"
confess that
"all wid one consent, when they ax us for the rent,
Sure we answer them in French at Killaloe."
The town is an excellent centre for the angler who would try
for sport on Lower Shannon, or Middle Shannon and Lough
Derg. The trout and pike fishing is free, but the salmon rod
is charged at about £1 a day, inclusive of boat. Messrs.
Enright and Son, Oastleconnell, can supply all information.
Lough Derg or Dearg is the largest lake in the course of the
Shannon, being 23 miles in length. The "through" steamer
leaves Killaloe early in the morning, and reaches Portumna, at
the north end of the lough, at mid-day, and arrives at Athlonc
between five and six. A local steamer also plies daily in the
southern part of the lough.
Thougli the southern entrance, as also indeed the northern
end of the lough, has no attractions comparable with the central
reaches, the boat passes very pleasantly between the green
quarried slopes of Arra Mountain on the right and the Slieve
Bernagh on the left.
There is a certain soft beauty about Scarijf Bay {jner). On
its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or
Jlohj Island on which are some ancient buildings ol' unusual
PORTUMNA 189
interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century,
and in all probability the western end of the church now stand-
ing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much
later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 a.d. It was, she says,
"built by King Brian Borurahe (Boru), and this building marks
the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland."
It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings
in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that
the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Bound Tower of,
perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and
shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian
"speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming from Iniscaltra,
travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " (Stokes).
On the same side of Scaritf Bay is Mount Shannon (pier), and
on the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay. This is the
widest part of the river above Limerick ; and across the latter
bay we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain, so called
from the curious nocch in its outline. According to the tradition
it was the devil who bit the piece out of the mountain, but,
finding the morsel too hard for his digestion, he is said to have
vomited it at Cashel in Tipperary, where it is known as the
"Rock of Cashel." The pier in Dromineer Bay (Hotel), the
next inlet on this east shore, serves the town of Nenagh, 6 miles
inland, and faces the charming house called St. David's. On
the opposite shore of the lough (west) is Williamstown (pier),
an important station for anglers, who will find some of the best
fishing on the lough here. "Dapping" with the natural fly
is a favourite method of the sport in early summer.
Between this and Island More we get the best scenery on the
loch, and obtain a good view of the well-defined and highest
point in Silvermine Mountains to the south, beyond Nenagh.
Away to the west, behind Williamstown, are the Scalp and other
jioints of the Slieve Aughty group, dim and far.
Then the "Devil's Bit" pops up again on the right, behind
the ruined tower of Castle Biggs, and on the left (wcbt) we pass
Bossmore (pier) before seeing the Clanrickarde Castle and
demesne on the same side. The principal shooting preserves
liere are owned by Lord Clanrickarde and the Earl of West-
meath.
Portumna is now in a somewhat decayed condition, and
190 LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC.
Ijossesses the ruins of a monastery and the remains of an ancient
castle. The monastery, which belonged to the Dominican ft'iars.
was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedi-
cated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The Dominicans were confirmed
in their possession by a bull of Pope Martin V. dated 8th October
1426. The walls are comparatively entire. The council, presided
over by the Earl of Strafford, convened for the purpose of estab-
lishing His Majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught,
held its sitting in Portumna Castle, but the members having
refused to admit the royal claims were sent to Dublin as prisoners
under escort of the sheriff.
A brief view of the "Abandoned Railway" may be had on
the east (right) bank just after leaving Portumna Bridge. The
end of the deep cutting is visible for a moment. This twelve-
mile line was laid down between Portumna and Parsonstown,
but owing to a dispute between the Company and the Board of
Works it was abandoned. The conntry-folk ripped up the rails
and sleepers, azid a local representative told the writer that he
well remembered seeing his father buy twenty steel rails for Is.
We have now fairly left Lough Derg, and are once more
sailing against the placid stream of the river through a country
that is "sometimes tame, sometimes ugly, not seldom beautiful,
but never either grand or picturesque." On each side are flat
meadows supplying good grazing, and dropping to the river in a
fringe of rushes which provides many a snuggery, for the exten-
sive population of waterfowl. The chief features on the land-
scape are the red and black guide-posts, which are, doubtless,
indispensable to " the man at the wheel " in flood time.
A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavi-
gable until the commissioners deepened the bed of the river.
During these operations a number of very interesting prehistoric
relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths stone
hatchets were found. In a stratum overlying this were bronze
spears and swords ; a still nearer deposit contained imi)lement8
of iron, such as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata next
the surface more modern implements, among which were anti-
quated firelocks.
Banagher (pop. 1164; Hotel: M'Intyre's) is a market
town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus
of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a
LIMERICK TO GALWAY 191
fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, whicli
is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it
there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the
well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins
of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last
representative of whom died a little more than half a century
ago. He has been regarded as the "last Irish chief." He
governed his tenants according to the immemorial laws of Ire-
land, and practised the modes of life of his ancestors.
Passing the Grand Canal and the meeting of the three counties,
King's, Galway, and Roscommon, we arrive at Shannon Bridge,
a few miles beyond which, on the way to Athlone, we come in
sight of the ruins of Clonmacnois, described under Athlone
(page 199).
LIMERICK TO GALWAY BY RAIL via ENNIS,
GORT, AND ATHENRY JUNCTION.
After "fetching a compass" round the entire eastern half of
the city, the line crosses the low-banked Shannon ; and from
the bridge we get far and away the best view of Limerick, in
which the beautiful spire of the R.C. Cathedral is the leading
feature. Then running over well-wooded flats we pass Cratloe
Castle, and Bum-atty Castle, once the seat of the De Clares and
the Thomonds, with histories which moved Thackeray to romance
wildly over two pages of his Sketch Booh.
Beyond Six-mile Bridge the rails pass between some small
lakes (right) and— 3 miles to the left — Ncwmarkct-on-Fergus. This
village is just south of Dromoland, the seat of Lord Inchiquin,
which is in sight from the train (left). The family (O'Brien)
claim descent from King "Brian Boru," who fell at Clontarf,
1014.
About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19f miles) is
QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for
Franciscan friars, and dating probably from 1402. An examina-
tion of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had
been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored
at great cost. It is of special interest as having been sur-
rounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In
the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The
best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the flne meadows, with
192 LIMERICK TO GALWAY
the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in tlie river Fergus.
Half a mile distant from Clare Castle are the ruins of Clare
Abbej', founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster,
for Augiietiniau canons regular.
Ennis, 21i miles (pop. 5160; Ref. -Rm. ; Hotels: Queen's;
Clare, and Old Ground), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns
in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo,
wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several
other towns of greater fame. It is clean, and has good houses,
buildings, and some fair shops. The people are of unusually
brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's
cloud-swept statue is the chief historical building — the Fran-
ciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building
supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and
spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is
at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the
place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the '^Martyrs' " Pillar,
erected in memory of the trio who " suffered death in Manchester,
1867 " ; and chiofly noticeable for the inscribed details concern-
ing its builders, even to the name of the stone-cutter. In the
R.C. Cathedral is an unusually realistic and coloured group of
figures before the N. altar. Some mural paintings should be
observed.
From Ennis the West Clare Bailway passes westward by Corofln, where
there is good fishing m Lough Inchiquin, Ennistynion (station for Lisdoon-
varna), Lehinch, Miltown Malbay, Kilkee (47 miles), and Kilrush on tlie
Shannon. See page 214.
Beyond Ennis limestone in fragments appears to be the despair
of the farmer, for even the innumerable miles of intersecting
avails do not exhaust so fertile a crop. Soon after you see
Inchicronan Lough, which encircles the island ruin of O'Brien's
12th-century abbey. Tubber ("the well ") is one mile over the
Gahvay county boundary ; and a few minutes after passing
Loughcooter Castle, you see the conspicuous spires and the
prettily embowered school of
Gort (32| miles), pop. 1498, a comparatively prosperous town,
with a barracks, workhouse, etc.^ The town takes its name
from the time when King Gnairt had a palace there. Three
1 " It looked as if it wondered how the deuce it got into the midst of suoh
desolate country, and seemed iohore itself tliere considerably. "— Thackeray.
DUBLIN TO GALWAY : MAYNOOTH 193
miles south-west of Gort is Kilmacduagh, with 7th-ceiitury
ruins, an ancient fort, and a round tower which leans consider-
ably from the perpendicular.
At Athenry Junction, 60| miles (see page 203), we join the
Midland Great Western Railway for Galway, or may proceed
northwards to Tuam.
DUBLIN TO GALWAY.
Majmooth (pop. 958 ; Hotel : Leinster Arms), the seat of tlie
well-known Roman Catholic College, is 15 miles from Dublin
by the IMidlaud Great Western Railway. The village consists
chiefly of one tolerably wide street, at the one end of which is the
entrance to Carton, the beautiful and extensive demesne of the
Duke of Leinster, open to the public on week-days ; at the other
end is the Royal College of St. Patrick.
The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, ex-
tended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It
has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine
specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful
apartment, and there is a large library. The college was insti-
tuted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for
candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Church, on
account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish
students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half
the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education
at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of
£26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in
1869 this was commuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen
times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and
bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students.
The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded
in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened
in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken
from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Breretou, in the reign
of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The
keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the sur-
rounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great
strength.
The Protestant Episcopal Church, erected in the beginning
of the 16th century by Earl Gerald Fitzgerald, has an imposing
13
194 DUBLIN TO GALWAV
tower. Tlie round tower of Taghadoe is 2 miles to the north
of Maynooth.
[At Enfield a branch line passes to Carbery (6^ miles), where
are the ruins of a castle built by the Berminghams in the 12th
century ; and Edenderry (11 miles), near which is the source of
the Boyne.]
We cross the Boyne a few miles before passing the Hill of
Down on the right. For some distance we traverse the Bog of
Allen, and skirt the southern boundary of Meath.
MuUingar (50| ; pop. 5323 ; Hotels : Greville Arms ; Kelly's),
a busy agricultural market town, and angling centre, possesses
an important railway junction, from which the two lines to
Cavan and to Sligo diverge northwards from the main Midland
G. W. Railway.
The sight of streets such as t)iose of MuUingar tills the traveller with
amazement. Wliy, he asks, shouM the local limestone be rendered ten times
more lugubrious by this dejjressiag cloud of blue wash, with which a curious
national fashion has bedaubed so many of the towns of the " Emerald " Isle?
Little wonder that the following should appear in the " Visit,ors' Book " :—
" Oil, ye plumbers from afar,
Come to blue MuUingar,
With your pots of " terra-cotta," white, or chrome ;
Till your colours, warm and bright.
Wash these walls of dusky night,
I ain oft to my sunny Saxon home."
This is a most important centre for fishermen, and the neigh-
l)Ouring lakes, Ennel (or Belvedere) o\\ the south, and Owel and
Derevaragh on the north — generally known as the " Westmeath
Lakes " — are much frequented by anglers. MuUingar, in fact,
offers some of tlie finest sport in the country, and that, besides,
free to all. These loughs are all within 6^ miles of the town,
the last of the three named being under 3 miles from Castle-
pollard. Authorities seem to be agreed that these waters have
the virtue so rarely met with, of affording good sport tlirougli-
out all the summer months, from April to October, and trout
run up to a dozen lbs. or more in weight.
But Lough Ennell owes its reputation chiefly to a peculiar local method
of tricking the tackle, used during the May-fly season. This arrangement,
known as the " blow-lino," suspends the whole of the gut, so that there is
no chance of the fish "getting behind the scenes." Loughs Shielin and
Iron also, though to a lesser degree, furnish many a ba.skct in the season.
ATHLONE 195
At MulUngar the railway branches off for Sligo, and forCavan,
Enniskillen, and Londonderry. The line to Gahvay bends in a
south-west direction, and as we pass from the cultivated land of
the east to the pastures of the west we note that the haunts of
men are few, the sheep many and fat. Between Castletown and
Streamstown, the junction for Clara, is a bare waste, and then
the "dreary, dreary moorland." At i/oa<e Station (68^ miles)
observe the giant ash tree and the "Cattle Park," The 78th
mile ends at
Athlone (pop. 6742 ; M. G. W. Railway Station (Refreshment
Room) is \ mile away from the G. S. and W. Eaihcay Station.
Hotels : Prince of Wales ; Haire's, smaller). Dull and unpic-
turesque in appearance it may be, but the town has always
held such an important position owing to its situation, and has
had so interesting a history that it well deserves the tourist's
attention. Athlone, the centre town of Ireland, and both before
the railway era and to-day one of the chief crossings of the
Shannon, lies on both banks of the river, where it divides the
border of Westmeath, the western boundary of Leinster, from
County Roscommon and the eastern fringe of Connaught. It
was thus the military key to the latter kingdom, and conse-
quently from the earliest times to the present has always housed
an important garrison.
The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present
bridge, in the far-off time when tlie crossing was made over the fords ; and
when troops and travellers knew well the hostelry and the history alike of
that ancient taverner, one "Luau," to whom our best scholars trace the
latter part of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should bo
connected with Norwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most
eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and
we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle
has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous
than the siege of 1691, when Ginckell captured Athlone, and so forced the
battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At tirst the garrison under
Grace, and, later St. Ruth, who held the castle for James II., stood limi,
but the heavy tire of Ginckell's men and their last assault utterly broke the
Irish defence.
" It seems hard for us to conceive how, in the siege of 1691, any part of the
town can have escaped utter destruction, as the batteries were all arranged
along the river bank on the site of the present Strand Street, with outlying
batteries. . . . But we must remember that the siege guns and powder of
two hundred years ago did not carry their i)rojectiles much farther than a
coujile of hundred yards. Specimens of the cannon balls used in the siege
can still be seen in Athlone " {Professor Stokes). The present bridge replaces
196 DUBLIN TO GALWAY
the old Elizabethan structure which was the seene of the siege (see Professor
Stokes's " Guide to Athlone," an iLncommonhj useful sixpenny-]iL'orth)A
The neatness and cleanliness of this, compared with many
other Irish towns, will appeal to visitors as much as the smooth-
ness of the streets will give the cyclist pleasure. In one respect
Athlone has few equals in M-estern towns of the country ; it is a
busy centre of industry, and its large " Tweeds " Factories employ
several hundreds of hands. Indeed, the uncommon sound of the
march-past of some seven or eight hundred hoots on the way to
work at 6.30 a.m. awakes the slumbering tourist by its novelty.
The walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared,
but the tower of the castle and several historic buildings remain.
There is Ginckell's House, at the corner of Northgate Street,
in which it is said the Dutchman — the famous general "who
seems to have had no idea of chivalry " — lived at the time of the
siege of 1691, Of St. Maky's Chuuch the tower with its ancient
bell yet stands, from which rang out the famous "peal," referred
to by Macaulay, the signal for the final assault above mentioned.
It is also interesting as protecting the grave of one of Gold-
smith's cousins. The church contains the tomb of De Renzi
(1634), whose epitaph should be read. The most curious in-
scription, however, is that in St. Peter's Port, which runs : —
■' Let not Satan's agents enter —
Will o' Wisp and Jacky the Printer " —
put up, we are told, by a " former proprietor upon having estab-
lished his right at law to the X3remises against certain parties."
Near this, on the Connaught side of the river, once stood the
Abbey of St. Peter. More visible remains, however, can be found
of the Franciscan Abbey. It will be noticed that the Scotch
Parade, the old "Gallows Hill," is distinguished by name from
the quarter called " Irisli Town."
For many years Haire's Hotel has been celebrated for a local
sp6ciaUtc—(i(i[ steak, cooked over a peat fire — but, unfortunately,
the writer heard of this after leaving the town. This, indeed,
says Hi-Regan, "is the birthplace of eel-tail angling," so that
the eel fisher may ever be sure of a basket. Of all the angling
centres in County Roscommon Athlone is probably the best.
1 The finest stone battle-axe in Dublin Museum is from the Shannon, near
Athlone; and in the same museum are gold " lunulas " (or " minn "), also from
this town.
ATHLONE 197
The /grows iir Lough Ree are said to be "excellent"; and the
above authority speaks well of the sport with pike and wildfoM'l
on the Shannon between Athlono and Shannon Bridge.
During the season of 1898 steamers were running both up
Shannon to Rooskey (4J hours' journey), and southwards as far
as Killaloe (7^ hours) ; for particulars see 2nnk imges.
Lough Ree {for steamer service see innk 'pages) is smaller than
Derg, being 17 miles in length. Formerly it was called Lough
Ribh, and sometimes "Great Lough Allen." A boat for visiting
Lough Ree may be hired at Athlone, with or without rowers.
The numerous promontories, bays, and creeks of the lake greatly
add to the charm and variety of its scenery, and some of the
islands are very beautiful ; but it all wants sun.
This "Lough of the Kings" formed the frontier line between Hy-Many,
the principality of the O'Kellys, on the west, and " Kilkenny West," in the
kingdom of Sleath, on the east.
Among several interesting islands we may mention Inis Clotlirann (or
Quaker Island), named after the sister of Queen Mab (or Meave). On the
highest point of it once stood that queen's palace, and it was on the sunny
strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck
her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St.
Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500 ; and many remains of
churches and buildings remain. "The monastery of Inisboflu (or White Cow
Island) is, in some respects, the most interesting of any upon Lough Ree,
because its foundation is attributed to St. Rioch, the nephew of St. Patrick,
... a Briton or Welshman by birth." On Hare Island no hares are now
living to explain the name ; they have relinquished it in favour of the
later tenant. Lord Castlemaine. On the western shore is the interesting ruin
oi Randown Castle, "a famous spot in Irish history for the last 2000 years."
In ancient times it was called John's (Eoin) House after a local Celtic saint ;
when the Normans, wlio hated the Celts, came and "established a castle of
the Knights Hospitallers, they changed the dedication to that of St. John
the Baptist. Tlie castle still stands, with a round tower, " a church dedi-
cated to tlie Holy Trinity, and a fortified wall, " unique in Ireland."
Anglers, says Hi-Regan, will find "good sport" on the lough.
Athlone is the most convenient station for visiting Lissoy,
the supposed scene of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village " ; and the
celebrated ecclesiastical ruins of Clonmacnois on the Shannon.
Lissoy, or "Auburn," as it is sometimes called from the
name in Goldsmith's poem, is 8 miles north-east from Athlone on
the road to Longford, but those who are the fortunate owners of
canoes will include this excursion in theii' visic to Lough Ree
198 DUBLIN TO GALAYAY
and its islands ; they will find a good lauding at the bay on the
east shore, where the Inny flows in, about 3^ miles I'rnm Lissoy.
The village is about 23 miles west'of Mullingar.
Here Goldsmith's fathei', the rector of Kilkenny West, added
to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy
Estate, but though the poet lived much of his early life here,
the claim to the honour of his birthplace is disputed by Pallas,
Forgney, and Elphin, which Dr. Stokes favours most. The last,
indeed, has boldly asserted its right by the erection (1897) of
a window in the church commemorating the event there in 1728.
At Edgeworthstown (17 miles north-east) Goldsmith learnt the
"Three R's," as well as the village master's long store of "stories
about ghosts, bansbees, and fairies." Once, alack ! — on his
journey between that place and his home — he "actually com-
mitted the blunder of his own Comedy, mistaking a squire's house
for an inn." To enumerate, however, even the chief incidents
of his life ; his unhappy time at Trinity College, his idleness
at home, the final depai'ture from his native land, when he was
24 years old ; to describe a career which passed from medical
study to literary vagaries and philosophical vagabondism, oi
the distressing restraint of a moneyless author, the ill-paid pro-
duction of masterpieces such as the Viair of Wakefield and
of the " Deserted A'illage," and all the events of the life of that
" strange wilful scapegrace and dreamer," who afterwards became
a friend of Johnson, and rose to the highest rank among the
masters of the English language ; to collect all these from Forster's
biography would exceed our limits. Suffice it to remind the
tourist that the "Deserted Village" was published in 1770,
and that he may find in the churchyard of the Temjile Church
in London tlie grave of the poet whose beautiful lines will have
drawn Jiim to this village.
It is difficult to imagine that Lissoy, even in the earlier da)'3
of Goldsmith, when ho loitered on "the green " and "paused
on every charm," could have so far differed from all other
villages of its country as to present the distinctly English
characteristics pictured in the "Deserted Village." The
ruins of the "village preacher's modest mansion" are still
pointed out, where the poet's father may have thought himself
"passing rich on forty pounds a year." The church is said to
bo on the site of that " decent church" where " fools who came
to scoff remain'd to pray." The same village "Mill" may
CLOXMACNOIS 199
perhaps be standing, and the once "glassy brook" which now,
"choked with sedges, works its weary way." It is, however,
scarcely probable that in Goldsmith's childhood the Inn ever
offered its guests the peculiarly English comforts of the "Three
Jolly Pigeons," —
" Where village statesmen talked with looks profound
And news much older than their ale went round."
The "hawthorn bush," if it ever cast its shade there, has now
disappeared, owing it is said to its having been cut down piece
by piece and sold to tourists. In any case, pieces of thorn now
palmed off on verdant enthusiasts have not the slightest claim
to be regarded as pieces of the genuine " hawthorn."
Clonmacnois ( Tea at Cottage. From Athlone 8| miles by boat ;
13 miles hy road. From Shannonbridge b\ miles by road).
What Kevin's city of Glendalough was to Wicklow, the
Clonmacnois of Kieran was to the Western Irish. But, as usual,
this religious settlement of the west had been established long
before the saint l>egan to build on the eastern coast. Founded
about 550 by the wild winding river, Clonmacnois — "the
meadow of the Sons of Nos " — stands fitly in a country where, as
Dr. Petrie said, "loneliness and silence, save the sound of the
elements, have an almost undisturbed reign." It occupied
"in the 9th century a position second only to Armagh itself in
popular reverence. . . . Two round towers, three crosses, an
ancient castle, a well-preserved cashel, the ruins of seven churches,
all genuine Celtic monuments, with but few traces of English
work, unite to make Clonmacnois a most interesting spot for the
historian or the archseologist " {Dr. Stokes).
The founder, St. Kieran, was " no mythical character. " He
was surnamed the "son of the carpenter," and after founding
the church here died of " black jaundice," in 549, at the young
age of 33. " In the time of Charlemague (800) Clonmacnois was
known in France and Germany as a great seat of learning, and
Alcuin of York wrote . . . sending pecuniary assistance to
the monks."
On entering this "Royal Cemetery," as it has been called,
where —
" They laid to rest the seven Kings of Tara ;
There the sons of Cairbr6 sleep "—
200 DUBLIN TO GALWAY
the visitor is struck by the crowd of graves and memorials of
the dead. Miss Stokes has shown of what unusual value to
archseologists the inscriptions found here have been in assisting
them to fix reliable dates to inscriptions found in other parts of
Ireland. There appear to have been twelve cliurches originally,
and the surviving seven "all seem specimens of the true old
Irish style."
Near the south gate, and outside the wall is O'Ruark's, or the
great Bound Tower, distinguished by its capless top, and a late
specimen of its kind. This and the smaller one to the north-
east may have been erected in the 10th or 11th century. If
we accept the now most popular theory of these towers, — that,
though occasionally used as emergency treasure-houses for the
monasteries, they were primarily belfries, — Clonmacnois must
have heard an unusual amount of bell-ringing.
With the wall-enclosure, near the above, is the famous High
Cross (or "Cross of the Scriptures "), perhaps the most beautiful
in form and decoration of all the ancient crosses, unless perhaps
the coeval "High Cross" at Monasterboice be alone excepted.
From the inscriptions, which state that Colman "made this cross
on the King Flann," the date has 1'een fixed by Miss Stokes at
A.D. 914. The elaborate carving represents Christ in judgment,
and the building of the adjoining church by St. Kieran.
Close by is the Cathedral (or Tearnpull MacDermot) built in
904 by King Flann Sinna and the Abbot Colman. It appears
to have been rebuilt in 1089 and again in the 14th century, but
the west doorway evidently survives from the earlier building.
Notice the " antae " or wall-ends, so often found jutting out from
the Irish west-fronts. One of the chief features is the rich
north-side door, late, and carved in " per2)endicular " style. St.
Patrick is noticed above, between SS. Francis and Dominick
(observe the quaint grin on the central face).
In the chancel, from which the once large east window iias
disappeared, is an inscription recording the restoration in 1647 ;
on the south side is the so-called "sacristy," vaulted over with
a barrel roof, and surmounted by the smallest of the three belfries.
This may, perhaps, be the original oratory of St. Kieran.
A short distance from the Cathedral, on this " sacristy " side,
a Cross, simjiler and more weather-beaten than the other, stands
near the west end of Tcampull Hurpau, a comparatively late
church, containing within it a very early window. Returning
CLONMACNOIS 201
towards the Cathedral, notice a short way off on tlie right
O'Melayhliiis Chanel, which has marks on the interior walls of
an upper story.
Nearer the river than the latter, and on your right is Teampull
Kieran, to which authorities assign the Norman date of 1167.
According to the same authorities, the O'KeUy Church close to
the end of the Cathedral (left) is coeval with it.
In the west wall of Teampull Conor, which stands between
the above and the capped tower, is an old doorway, and above
it a still older (Norman ?) arch. This building, now the
Protestant Church, is not beautified more by the burial-ground
on the north side than by its modern slate roof. Beyond, on
the northern boundary overlooking the river is Teanvpull
Finghin (Finan), built probably in the late Norman period.
Note the later work of the lowest " order " of the round chancel
arch ; and the early form of the east window. Though this
Chapel appears to kave been built into the Round Tower adjoining
it, the difficulty of proving which stood here first is a nut hard
in the cracking. The door of this — M'Carthy's — Tower is, like
that of the High Scattery Tower, on the ground level. The
features of these later round towers suggest that owing to the
approach of more peaceful times their use had become decorative
rather than defensive. "The campanile of Ireland was passing
through such transitions as seem to foretell the advent of a type
that would have added to its strength the charm of finely
executed ornament " {M. Stokes).
The Nuns Church, half a mile north of the Cathedral, "is an
exquisite piece of architecture erected in the latter half of the
12tli century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke,
Prince of Brefuy, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172.
The arch of this church is very beautifully built." " The ruins
of the Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacnois are
very striking ; it is still in exactly the same state as the soldiers
of Cromwell left it 250 years ago, when his soldiers attempted in
vain to blow it up. It was originally built by John de Gray
Bishop of Norwich, about the year 1210."'
(For detailed accounts see those by Petrk, and Dr. Stokes,
li. S.A.I. Journ. 1890.)
Beyond Athlone the railway covers 14 miles of weary waste,
where we can see but few cottages, few cattle, and no trees.
Then the musically-named
202 DUBLIN TO GALWAY
Ballinasloe (pop. 4642 ; Hotel : Hayden's, old fashioned, 1;^
mile from station). — It is a dull-looking town, and unless
the tourist wishes to see how its three leaden-liued streets
can repose under the graceful spire of its Roman Catholic
church, as indifl'erent about house paints as Mullingar, he
should confine his visit here to the week of the Great
Fair.
Though annually announced for the first Tuesday in October,
and the four following days, this celebrated horse and cattle
fair, which has generally ranked next to the Dublin fair in im-
portance, practically begins with, if not before, dawn on the
Monday of that week, and lasts till the crush and the fun of
Saturday are over. Good horses, indeed, are quickly snapped
up, and the purchaser who arrives on Tuesday will find himself
"out of it" by twenty-four hours.
The station, where a train of thirty or forty horse-boxes is no
uncommon sight, presents a scene of overcrowding and business
quite unique of its kind in Ireland. The stationmaster gives
place to the barmaid of the refreshments and the lady-clerk of
the telegraph ; in the cloak-room beds are substituted for valises ;
and confusion reigns everywhere. On your right, as you enter
the town, is Garbally House (Earl of Clancarty), and during the
Slieep Fair the whole inner park is devoted to the use of some
20,000 bleating slieep. Within the town is bustle and bargain-
ing. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road, or
attempt, with maximum risk to life and limb, to thread their
way through the groups of gaitered farmers. The latter are the
most interesting figui'cs on the street. Some, you will find, are
remarkably tall, but none stout ; at our last visit to the fair, the
fat farmer was as much a rara avis as a drunken one. On the
look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, — a pain-
ful element of Irish gatlicrings at present ; and the dresses of
tlie girls give colour to a crowd which, to an English eye, is as
novel as it is interesting.
Five miles distant is Aghiiim, the scene of the battle (July
12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under Dc Ginckell
and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were
completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's
Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is
annually commemorated by the Orangemen ou " The Twelfth, "
Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is
^■1
ATHENRY 203
Athenry { Hotel : Railway, near station), of much interest to
tlie antiquarian, while a visit to the Dominican Friary will
repay the general tourist ; but the village— once a royal town —
is now poverty-stricken, although still a great hunting centre,
the famous " Gal way Blazers" meeting here. The town was
■walled in 1211, and was not long in attracting foes. Its history
has been a tragic one, bristling with the terrors of war. When
the Earls of Clanricarde in 1577 swept the land of Connaught
with fire and sword Athenry buried its full share of the slain.
Again, however, it rose from its ruins, but only to fall before
"Red Hugh's" destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never
recovered from this savage blow.
Entering by the gateway in the still remaining walls you
have on the left the 13th-century Castle, with its lofty gabled
keep. In the centre of the town is the remnant of an ancient
cross in front of the gate which leads to the Franciscan Friary.
The church, which still retains its slender tower and spire, and
contains the present Protestant church within its chancel, was
founded by the Earl of Kildare in 14G4. The best part of the
building is the south transept, which once had a very finely cut
window now ruined.
A few yards off is the most interesting of all the ruins — the
Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1211 still
remains in the windows of the nave (south) and chancel (north),
but most of it is later work. The chancel was burnt down in
1423 and, soon after, was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It
has remains of an east window of the " Muckross " type ; an
eccentric inscription on the north wall; the "tasteless" tomb
(in the centre) of Lady Bermingham ; and, on the south, the
"sacristy," containing bones which tradition relates are those
of the last monks. The nave once possessed in its west wall
the finest window (" Decorated ") in the church ; it had a little
window in the south-west corner which is said to have lighted
the cell of a penitent of the last century. The curious "coat of
arms " of Tanian the smith, upon a floor slab, deserve notice.
The finest feature of the building, however, is the bcautiftd
arcading in the north side aisle ; if not as old as the original
church, this must be at least of 13tli-century date. There is an
account of the church in the R. S.A.I. Handbook, 1897.
From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam (pop. 3000 ;
Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little
204 DUBLIN TO GALWAY
town. On the otlier hand it looks the humblest of cities; yet
it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834,
and ti'aces its importance back to the 6th-century saint Jarlath,
who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses
and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross
with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes :— " Crucifixion
on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral pro-
cession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions
both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.
The chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that of St. Marj-
(Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former
farries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number
of small kingdoms, and when Tuani was the metropolitan see for Connaught.
At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches
nothing remains but the chancel of St. Mary's and a small part of the old
parish church, whicli now stands in the middle of the ancient burial ground
close to the present Cathedral. The chancel arch is of Iliberno-Romanesque
architecture, and consists of six circumscribed semicircles, elaborately
ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie, in writing of the church, says, "Of
the ancient church of Tuam the chancel only remains ; but fortunately it is
sufficient to make us acquainted with its general style of architecture, and
to show that it was not only a larger, but more splendid structure than
Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to
whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond,
fret, and varieties of the clievron, all carved with exquisite perfection. The
original East window of the chancel remains. It is a triplet carved with
most elaborate interlaced work, like that of the ancient Irish crosses. This
window is one of the most perfect examijles I know of interlaced ornament
in stone." Joined to the East end of the Cathedral is a much older church,
which was used as a Cathedral till the present one was opened in 1878, after
being fifteen years in erection, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church
is now used as a Synod Hall, a portion of it being set apart as a Diocesan
Library. This valuable library was presented to the diocese by the Rev.
Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly British chaplain in Lima, Peru. In the Synod
Hall are some beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, which were found in
Italy and were purchased by the late Mr. B. J. Cooper of MacKree Castle,
fur £3000, and after his decease presented to the diocese.
Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the
town, are several statues, including one to Father ^MacHale, by
Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.
Resuming our railway journey at Atlienry we shortly after-
wards pass the Castle of Derrydonnell on the left. At Oranmore
we begin to .skirt Galway Bay, of which we obtain a magnificent
view, and, crossing Lough Athalia by a swivel bridge ir>4 feet in
length, we arrive at Galway.
206
GALWAY.
Hotels. — The Railway at the Station ; Mack's, Keane's, O'Brien's, Imperial,
Skeffington Arms, Byre Square ; and Egli7it07i, Saltliill.
Distance from Dublin 126J miles. Galway to Spiddle by car (llj) ; by rail
to Clifden, vid Oughterard (49).
Steamers. — To and from Ballyvaughan thi-ee times a weelj in summer; on
other days excursions to the Aran Islands.
Chief Places of Interest.— Protestant Church of St. Nicholas; Lynch
Castle and other specimens of ancient street architecture; Queen's
College ; Claddagh ; Salthill ; Bay of Galway ; Islands of Aran.
Per. ]3,f^00.
Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the
arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were
under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was
given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and
made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the
principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as
the "tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the
fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it
acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much
frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with
Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities .still to be
seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain
fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings
have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.
After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian
war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to
the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way
from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick.
James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the
choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end, and put painted
glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, accord-
ing to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own
son, because he had conspired with the crew of a ship to murder the
captain and seize the cargo. Some relatives went to intercede
for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-
206 GALWAY
termination, caused him to be executed before their arrival, and
on approaching the house they saw his lifeless body dangling from
one of the windows. In commemoration a stone bearing a skull
and cross-bones above the following words — which, though few
in number, baflle the accuracy of all copyists —
Remember deaths
Vaniti of vaniti^ al is but vaniti
was erected in Market Street. The stone was removed and
restored, and in 1854 a tablet was placed on the wall of St,
Nicholas' Churchyard with the inscription —
This Ancient Memorial
OF THE
Stern and Unbendino Justice of the Chief Maoistratb of
THIS ClTV,
JAMES LYNCH FITZ-STEPHEN,
Elected Mayor a.d. 1493,
Who Condemned and Executed his own Guilty Son,
WALTER,
on this Spot,
HAS been Restored to this its Ancient Site, a.d. 1854,
with the APPROVAL OF THE TOWN COMMISSIONERS, BY THEIR
Chairman,
VERY REV. PETER DALY, P.P.,
Vicar of St. Nicholas.
Galway is admirably situated for commercial purposes, and
possesses all the natural advantages necessary for development
into a first-class port. The channel opposite the harbour has
lately been deepened at an expense of £140,000, and a dock
constructed intended to alford accommodation for the largest
steamers, but still the dejjth of water at entrance to the harbour
is insufficient. The port is the nearest roadstead to America,
being distant 1636 miles from St. John's, Newfoundland, 2165
from Halifax, 2385 from Boston, and 2700 from New York. By
a line of Atlantic packets running to this port, the American
mails might be quickened about eight hours. The Allan liners
enter the roadstead occasionally for emigrants. The general
trade of the port is, however, inconsiderable, and for some years
has been diminishing.
There is a valuable salmon-fishery on Lough Gorrib. Sports-
men may obtain liberty to fish for salmon on very easy terms.
Trout-fishing is free both on the lakes and streams. A canal
GALWAY 207
passing through the town connects the harbour with Lough
Corrib.
Galway presents a curious combination of dihipidation and
decay, with signs of improvement and moderate prosperity.
Some immense warehouses, comparatively modern, have been for
several years unoccupied, and are slowly going to ruin, and in
nearly every street untenanted and roofless houses suggest the
"impression of a city sacked and ruined."
On many houses in the older and meaner parts of the town
may be seen sculptured facades and coats-of-arms, in curious con-
trast with the surrounding squalor. The most entire of these
antique dwellings is that known as " Lynch's Castle," in Shop
Street, the ground floor of which is occupied as a grocery store.
The windows and doors are ornamented with sculptures, and the
roof is furnished with gargoyles to throw off" the water.
The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still
remain, the Lyon Tower in Francis Street, and the archway at
the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the
town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in
walks, and planted with trees. On one side, the square is
occupied by the Railway Hotel and the Railway terminus, and
among other buildings surrounding it are Mack's Hotel, the
County of Galway Club-house, and the Bank of Ireland.
In the Franciscan Church, near New Bridge, which was built
in the 18th century on the site of the old monastic church, are
curious monuments. Notice especially that of Sir P. French,
and another figured with many saints. There are some remnants
of elaborate carving. Near this there once stood a Dominican
Friary. It is from the New Bridge that you obtain quite the
pleasantest view in the town.
Just beyond Lynch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of
St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast,
has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks.
The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. In the in-
terior, once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament
troops during the Civil War, we note the tracery of the
central western window, which is uncommon, and recalls that
at Holy Cross (Thurles) ; the window of the south transept, the
finest in the church ; and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-
Stephen on the south wall. The east window was once filled
with glass, given by the same man of "stern and unbending
208 GALWAY
justice." The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is
what is generally called "the Confessional," hut "nothing is
definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was
ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower,
one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used ; an-
other, the j>resent clock-bell, M'as erected by the present Bishop
of Tuam. Of the remaining eight bells the two largest are
cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ring-
ing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.
Queen's College is situated about half a mile north-west of
the town in grounds which are well laid out. Museums are
attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a
large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of "Tom"
Tower in Christ Chiu-ch, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. (See
Killarney Sect. p. 109.)
The Claddagh (Irish, Cladacfi, the sea- shore or strand) is
the name given to that part of Galway adjoining the harbour,
and inhabited chiefly by fishermen. Formerly they were a
distinct community, not intermarrying with the townfolk,
and governed by their own magistrate or mayor, called the
"King of the Claddagh," but they are now under municipal
rule.
The community still retain various singular customs. The
bride receives as her dowry a boat, or share of a boat, according
to the means of the parents. The marriage ring is an heirloom
jiassing from mother to daughter. It is of gold, and often
decorated with a heart supported by two hands. On certain
days, regarded by them as unlucky, not even the presence in
the bay of the most miraculous shoals of fish would tempt them
to put to sea. They guard with great jealousy what they
I'cgard as their own special rights of fishing in the bay, and cut
the nets of any strange trawlers who persist in frequenting it.
Hardinian, in his History of Galway, describes this strange
community.
Salmon abound in the river Corrib, and may often be seen
from the parapet of New Bridge lying in great numbers as
close together as the lingers of the hand, waiting to ascend
the weir. At the spawning season tliis is one of the sights
of Galway.
Salthill, about a mile and a lialf west of Galway, is much
ARAN ISLES 209
frequented in summer on account of its sea-bathing. It is con-
nected with Galway by tram-car, and attached to the small hotel
is an extensive suite of public baths.
Galway Bay is the finest inlet on the whole Irish coast. Its
length between St. Brendan's Isle and the middle of North
Sound is over 30 miles, and its width at the mouth between
Gorumna Island and Moher Cliffs 20 miles. Across its entrance
are the three isles of Aran, stretching from north-west to south-
east. Dr. Hull refers to the occurrence here of "Archaean
rocks," "the most ancient of known rock-groups." Of these
"the most important tract is probably that which lies along the
north shore of Galway Bay." The same geologist, speaking of
the glacier movements in the ice age, shows that "there was a
great movement of the ice out of Galway Bay. We have here
got into the great ice-stream, which was continued in a south-
westerly direction along the southern shores of Galway Bay."
The Aran Isles {Steamers from Galway several times a week.
.)>oiiie of the ruins are hard to find, and a compass is recommended)
lie in a line across the mouth of Galway Bay, about 28 miles
from Galway. This excursion is one of uncommon pleasure for
the ordinary tourist ; for those Britons who take an intelligent
interest in the history of their own country, and the records of
the earliest pioneers of the Christian religion these "islands of
the saints " have a special fascination. As the total length
of the three islands together amounts to 14^ miles, and this
ground is more densely covered with ancient remains than any
space in Ireland of the same extent, it is clear that there is
plenty to see. We here only give a few notes upon the most
important features of the islands.
The longest island, Aranmorp or North Island, is 9 miles
long and lies north-west of the others : its history is practically
that of the group. The steamer puts in at Kilronan {Inn), the
chief village.
When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can
be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Bnda appears, Corbanus is the
island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe,
near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified
centuries before this, if we may trust our best archaeologists. Enda, or
Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel.
Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's
14
210 GALWAY
deatli (470), accepting from Aeiigus his gift of the North Island, and founded
one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity.
The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great ice-
sheet that seems to have descended liither from the central plain, deflected
southwards from tlie mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of
the bay " to such an extent that it extended all over the Aran Islands, where
Mr. Kinahan has observed strife pointing about north 25 east " {Hull). The anti-
quarian will find here " a typical collection of nearly all of the more remark-
able structures of pre-Norman times," from cromlechs and " beehive" cells
to "churches with chancels."
The uncommon characteristics of the natives mark them out as of a special
type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony which Scottish tourists
find in St. Kilda. Tlieir home-spun dress, cow-hide sandals called "pam-
pooties," and relics of ancient customs will attract notice. "We might be
disposed," says Dr. Beddoe, " trusting to Irish traditions respecting the
islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not
Cromwell, that upsetter of all things Hibernian, left in Aranmore a small
English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried
with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree." Dr. Petrie de-
scribes them as of a generally high moral character.
From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killeany,
where of several chiirches only two now remain, with the lower
part only of the Kound Tower. Four churches and the upper
part of the Tower were destroyed by Cromwellian soldiers to
build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. " Enda's Chapel " remains,
but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the
founder's chief settlement, and hither resorted Kieran of Clon-
macnois, and Brendan of Snierwick before he left to cross the
howling seas and sight the "spray-swept Hebrides." The hops
found growing here may be the last survivors of the monastery
garden. On the ridge (south-east) is the "unique" oratory of
St. Benan ; and south-west on the coast is the very remarkable
Black Fort, unfortunately fast disappearing.
About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan
is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years
with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which
is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun
Aengus" of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the
central prehistoric village, Baile va Scan, a collection of ancient
"beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along
the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is 3IacDuach's
Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and
tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea cliff, A mile
from the chapel, is the celebrated
DUN AENGUS 211
Dun Aenqus, nearly 300 feet above the sea, "the central
point of interest . . . and one of the finest preliistoric
forts of Western Europe." These duns or forts, writes Miss
Stokes, are associated with the adventures of Aengus, Conor,
and "heroes of the Firbolg race. They may have been in
existence two centuries or more before the introduction of
Christianity." They were built without mortar ; and the same
writer concludes that the upright jointings in the walls point to
"the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers."
The dun here may once have had four ramparts, of which three
are now standing ; and in the outer labyrinth of stones — which
rival even those on the summits of Scafell or Glyder-Fach —
we have a cheval defrise capable of breaking up most besieging
lines. In the doorway still remaining, with horizontal lintel
and inclined sides, we see the original type afterwards copied by
the monks ; and inside one wall is the interior passage so often
found in these early forts {e.g. Dunbeg, J'ahan).
About one mile north-west of this is another fine fort called
Dun Onaght ; and near it is Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect
of the "beehive" cells, " formed in a manner universally adopted
by early races in all periods of the history of man and in
various portions of the globe, where stone was available, before
the knowledge of the principle of the arch had reached them. The
dome is formed by the projection of one stone beyond another
till the walls meet in one flag at the apex " {31. Stokes). The
Church of St. Brecan is only \ mile to the north and is worth
a visit. This, which without reason is called the "Seven
Churches," was probably founded by Brecan, the 6th-century
bishop who founded Ardbrecan '(Meath) and several churches in
County Clare. It contains a very early window in the north wall ;
and once had a monastery on the north side. Observe the in-
scription, "vii ro-ma-ni," on a stone to the south-west, which
proves the extensive reputation of the monastery ; the broken
headstone of St. Brecan's grave ; and, higher up, the broken
but splendidly carved cross. The " Saint's Bed " is pointed out.
Inishmaan, or Middle Island, is divided bj' Gregory Sound, about li mile
in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious
oval shape, and, though terribly "restored," is a fine fort. The story of
Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry 1 (St.
1 The absence of this among the names of patron saints, or upon the crosses
and tombs of those early churches before the Norman Invasion, is remarkable.
212 GALWAY TO THE BURREN OF CLARE, ETC.
Mary's Chiircli) is of 15th-ceutury date. The saint Kenerg, whose " bed " is
here, was the brother of tlie lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Chwrch,
with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.
On South Island, the most interesting of several early ruins, i« St. Cavern's
Church, named after the brother of Ke^'i« of Glendalongh, and the disciple
of Enda.
[The literature dealing with tlie islands is extensive. The general tourist
will find an excellent and illustrated description in the U.S. A. I. Handbook,
No. II., by T. J. Westropp (Hodges, Is.) For others, Lord Dnnraven's
" Notes" wiU prove exhaustive.]
GALWAY TO THE BURREN OF CLARE, BALLYVAUGHAN,
LISDOONVARNA, THE CLIFFS OF MOHER AND
EILEEE.
Steamer three times a week to Ballyvaughan. Hotel cars from Ballyvaughan
to Lisdoonvarna. Railway, Eunis to Miltown Malbay and Kilkee.
The Burren of Clare, to the north of Lisdoonvarna, is fonned
chiefly of terraced hills, rising gradually to a height of from 800
to 1000 feet. They are composed entirely of bare limestone rock
of pale gray colour — the carboniferous limestone of geologists.
The beds rise very gently from beneath the coal-measure shales,
and end in steep slopes looking down upon Gahvay Bay. Black-
head forms one of the principal of these slopes. Deep valleys
penetrate this high limestone ground both from Galway Bay on
the north and from the low country on the east, towards which
a line of lofty clift's looks down, like those on the north, and
extends in a wavy line from near Kinvarra to near Corrofin.
Glen Colunibkill is the most remarkable of the valleys on the
east of the Burren high land. What makes those valleys so
remarkable is the bareness of the limestone rocks which surround
theui. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres rising in
regular steps and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing
there, till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in the
blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like great forti-
fications surrounded by regular bastions and walls rising one
above another, till each terminates in a small citadel crown-
ing the summit of the hill. The light gray of the nearer hills
fades into purple in the distance, and, should a stray sunbeam
strike through the clouds on some remoter promontory, the part
lit gleams out like a marble building, with all the effect of some
magnificent architecture.
LISDOONVAR^^A 213
The numerous rock fissures are lined with Uie most splendid
ferns and other plants — the delicate maidenhair fern being found
here as well as on the Aran Islands, together with several species
of plants very rarely to be met with in other parts of the British
Islands.
After reaching Ballyvaughan we may, instead of proceeding
direct to Lisdoonvarna, drive about 7 miles eastward, along the
Bay to Corcomroe Abbey, an offshoot of the great monastery of
Furness in Lancashire. It was founded about 1182 by a king
of Limerick, Donaldmore O'Brien, and dedicated to St. Mary.^
Though rude in structure as seen to-day, ancient accounts tell of
' ' the purple marble and polished stones, starry ornaments and
whitewashed walls of the Abl)ey." The cloister-square and
church still remain. In the chancel of the church there are the
altar ; the sedilia ; and the most interesting object of the build-
ing— the large figure oi King Conor Hoe O'Brien (1267), grandson
of the founder, most interesting as a sculptured record of the
royal Irish dress of the 13th century.
It is a drive of 10 miles from Ballyvaughan to Lisdoonvarna. -«'
Lisdoonvarna {Hotels : Queen's ; Eagle ; Imperial ; Atlanticcji^^X :_
Sjia ; Royal Spa ; Kincona ; Glenbourne ; Lynch's ; car from X ^'
Ennistymon Station — 8J miles — on the West Clare Railway; .._.J* X
is one of the most frequented spas of Ireland, and increasing --—
in popularity ; it is situated amidst bare wild hills, in proximity '^\,
to some of the most remarkable cliff scenery in Clare. One or f^ ■
two small brooks have worn their way down through tlie hard f^
black coal measures to the surface of the limestone below, and v
form picturesque dells, in one of which are two mineral springs,
the one a chalybeate and the other a sulphur.
The whole district is a botanist's paradise, and in many of
the rocks here and on the sea-coast are sheltered crevices which
by their retained heat foster many rare specimens.
To the sea-shore Avestward, where sea-bathing may be had,
the distance is only 4 miles. Kilfenora, about 5 miles south-
east of Lisdoonvarna, is of interest from its remarkable high
cross and ruined church. By the West Clare Railway (from
Ennis to Miltown Malbay) the remarkable clitf scenery of this
coast has been rendered easily accessible.
1 Tlieie is a good desciiption of the abbey and this part of Clare in
li.S.A.I. Handbook, No. II., by T. J. Westropp. rs
214 GALWAY TO THE BURREN OF CLARE, ETC,
hehiach. {Hotels : "Golf Links," of the "late Norwegian"
style of architecture, first class ; Kerin's, corafortahle ; 20| miles
from Ennis, and 2&^ miles from Kilkee by rail) is a happy land
for the golfer, and has good links that are rapidly gaining
popularity.
Cars may bo obtained for the Cliffs of_Moslelb. (10 miles), a
wonderful bit of coast which extends for 2 or 3 miles in length,
rising at one part to a height of 668 feet above the sea as an
absolutely vertical wall. At some of the points where the best
views are obtained fences have been erected, so that we may
lean over the precipices in security, and look down on the waves
650 feet below. One or two projecting crags rise half-way up
irom the water, forming the roosting-place of innumerable sea-
birds, in catching which the natives perform some remarkable
feats of daring.
The highest point is O'Brien's Tower, at the north end ;
about a mile north of it a narrow path gives access in fine weather
to the foot of the precipices, and it is difficult to say which is
the nobler prospect — the one looking up to the great pile of
horizontal beds thus eaten into by the waves of the Atlantic,
or the one from the summit over so many miles of its level
waters, with the Isles of Aran spread like a map midway between
the spectator and the distant mountains of Connemara.
Two miles to the east is Ennistymon, near which is Ennis-
tymon House (H. D. Macnamara, Esq., D.L. ), containing a good
picture gallery. From Lahinch the railway proceeds south-
wards, alfording occasional views of Liscannor Bay, and con-
tinues through Miltown Malbay (pop. 1267 ; Hotel: The Atlantic)
to Kilkee and Kilrush. About 2 miles to the west of Miltown
Malbay is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish
Armada were wrecked. The route southward as regards scenery
does not call for special remark until, after passing Doonbeg, we
begin to approach Kilkee.
D • , -rJ.. rsS: : ■ n' ^'•. v-^^ ^
MAP OF WEST CLARE
■PohhsieiV A,& CHUck. Lonao:
216
THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS OF CONNEMARA.
I. Galway to Recess and Clifden by railway. From Recess or Clifden to
Westport by car, visiting on the way Kylemore, Killery, Leenane and
Delphi.
II. Galway to Lough Corrib and Cong; hired car from Cong by Maani to
Maam Cross Station, where the train may be joined for Recess or Clifden ;
or direct from Cong to Leenane ; or from Cong to Ballinrobe station.
Route I.
GALWAY TO CLIFDEN BY RAILWAY : THENCE TO
WESTPORT BY CAR
As the road is closely followed by the railway, and the cyclist,
though on good surface, will often meet with hindering wind.s
rather than beautiful scenery until he reaches Recess, we confine
our remarks to the railway.
Leaving the large station of Galway, we notice one of the
chief features of the town, the curious and top-heavy tower of
the R.C. Church, bristling with pinnacles. Then after backing
inland a short way, we make for the wilds of Connemara across
the flat-banked river Corrib. As the line steers midway be-
tween that river and, on the left side, the thickly wooded hills,
Menlough Castle, over stream, with perhaps a straggling cow
or a sunburnt turf-cutter, are the only varieties along some
miles of the monotonous,
Connemara is the western section of County Galway, cut off
on the east and north by Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and
Killery Harbour, and bounded on the west by the sea. It has
many and varied attractions. It possesses, perhaps, few
treasures for the archaeologist, and perchance the golfer may too
often find the coffee-room carpet his only putting-green, but the
walker no less than the artist who explores the beauties of
Ballynahinch, the Killery, and the coast, will find some of the
finest scenes in Erin ; the angler in a hajipy season, M'ho whips
216 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN
the loughs and streams south of Lougli Inayh, will have every
variety of water and probably good sport ; whilst to them that
climb, — without hands, — the Twelve Bens and the Maamturks
afford abundance of good mountaineering. The botanist will find
nature bountiful here, and to the geologist she is more than
generous. Lastly for the man on wheels we need not do more
than quote the opinion of Mr. Mecredy, who declares it "a
cyclist's paradise."
Geologically the district is conveniently divided into halves
by the Galway-Clifden Railway, which marks off the Silurian
mountains of the north from the important tract of the oldest or
' ' Archfean " rocks of the southern side. Dr. E. Hull refers to the
strong resemblance of this wild southern tract to "some tracts
in Sutherlandshire formed of rocks of the same age." He draws
attention to the numerous rock basins and moraine-dammed
loughs; "a glance at the Ordnance or larger geological maps
will illustrate this better than any description." Some tracts
of the country, such as those lying to the south of Clifden
and bordering Kilkerrin Bay, are a perfect network of loughlets,
ice -worn bosses of rock, and hummocky mounds of drift.
"These basins and loughlets," he states, "cannot be accounted
for by any other theory than that of glacial agency."
For the origin of the name of Connemara we turn to Dr.
Joyce, who explains that Maeve — the famous queen of Connaught
in the first century A.D., and the "Mab" of English folk-lore —
had three sons, of whom the second was named Conmcic. The
descendants of this prince all settled in Connaught and were
called Conmac-?ie. One of their districts lay near the sea and
was called " Conmac-ne-?/iara, or the 'sea-side' — Conmacne,
which has been sliortened to the present name Con-ne-mara."
Beyond MoycuUen station (7| miles) Knocknalee Hill is a
j.leasing feature in the left-hand distance, and to avoid it the
rail keeps low, and near to Lough Ross. Three miles past Rosa
station the ruins oi Aughnanure Castle a.re seen on the right.
This was the ancient seat of the O'Flahertys, whose modern
house is Lemonjield.
In the 13th century the O'Flahertys, being driven from their
possessions on the east side of Lough Corrib by the De Burgos,
sailed across the lake and drove out the possessors of the terri-
tory there, and became powerful enough in this part of Conne
mara to prove a thorn in the side of the English authorities,
OUGHTERAED 217
with whom tliey were continually at war. Though doubtless a
very ancient feudal castle once occupied the site, the portions of
the building still left do not indicate an earlier date than the
16th century. Of the castle, the strong square keep and barti-
zan remain, with indications of the banqueting-room and vari-
ous offices. The interiors of the windows of the banqueting-hall
are worthy of notice, on account of the decorative stone carving
they display.
Oughterard (Angler's, Railway, and Murphy's Hotels), about
17 miles from Gal way, is a village of 810 inhabitants, and contains
a bridewell, and a barracks for two companies of infantry. A
little distance from the town, near the bridge, the river forms a
series of pretty cascades, called the Falls of Feogh. The valley
is well planted, and the whole scene possesses more of a sylvan
character than is commonly met with in this district.
The visitor from County Kerry will note how much cleaner,
better dressed, and, at the same time, duller of wit the Galway
peasantry appear than their fellow-countrymen in the south.
As we continue along a line of "loughlets " that makes the
fisherman's eye glisten, the attractive form of Carrigogue comes
out on the right ; behind which, high up are, so tradition saith,
the Bed and Holy-Well of St. Patrick. At Maam Cross Station
(26^ miles), where we cross the road from Screeb Bridge to Maam
Post Office (on the Cong road), we at once make our entrance
into the land of mountains, and scenery that is impressively
grand.
At 33 miles from Galway is Recess, where we stop first at the
small station belonging to the new hotel of the M. G. W. R.
Company ; and, one mile beyond, reach the principal station,
near the point where the road along Lough Inagh turns north
from the main road.
218
RECESS.
Railway Stations.^ — See just above.
Hotels. — Recess Hotel, Slidland Great Western Railway Company, good.
Cashcl (Zetland Arms), 6 miles.
Distances.— Roundstone, 12J ; Carna, 16; KJlkerrin, 21; Lough Inagli,
3 ; Kylemore, direct, 12 ; Leenane, direct, 16 ; Screeb Bridge, 17 ;
Clifden, 14.
The fame of Recess, doubtless iucreasiug every j'ear, is due
to its advantage as a centre for fishing or exploring the beautiful
fishery district of Ballynahinch, at the foot of the "Twelve
Bens."
To the fisherman and the scenery-hunter alike this district
is, in the words of an enthusiast, "a dream of pleasure." It is
pre-eminently an angler's resort, and, indeed, one of the best
fishing centres in Ireland.
The house and hamlet to which the name specially belongs
lie at the western, or Clifden end of the now famous Lough.
This, together with the north-eastern loughs of Derryclare and
Inagh, its feeders, curves crescent-wise round the eastern feet
of the Twelve Bens. Thackeray in his enthusiasm declared that
the beauty here rivalled that of Killarney.
" I won't attempt," he wrote, "to pile up big words in place of those wild
mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it went
and came, cast every variety of tint, light and shadow ; nor can it be ex-
pected that long level sentences, however smooth and .shining, can be made
to pass as representations of those calm lakes by which we took our way.
All one can do is to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry ' Beautiful 1 '
once more ; and to the reader say ' Come and see ! ' "
The feature par excellence of this part of the country, a thing
of beauty indeed, of which the tourist never tires, is the splendid
group of The Bens, wliich raise here their noble peaks " in the
heart of some of the loveliest scenery in the world, full of varied
and interesting scrambles, and botanically are pre-eminently the
richest in mountain plants in Connaught" (J/. C. Hart).
The geologist will find in these mountains the same " quartzile
rising in great arches or folds, which after disappearing north-
wards for some 20 miles, rises again in Croagh Patrick on Clew
Bay. Sometimes the sides of these hills are destitute of vegeta-
tion, where it cannot cling to the dry gritty substance. They
RECESS 219
have also undergone considerable polishing from former glacial
action ; so that it will be easily understood how, seen from
certain directions and under favourable sunlight, the mountain
sides glisten like glass, or rather with the rich yellowish hue
of burnished gold." The views of the Bens which to us
appear most striking are those obtained from the road along the
eastern shore of Lough Inagh ; from this are clearly seen the
three successive "shoulders," like rounded cushions, which rise
from the island-studded lake buttressing up the tapering peaks
above. Bengorm, 2336 feet high, forms a very graceful summit,
but the loftiest point of the group is Benbaun, which is 2395 feet.
The best fishing will be found in the two principal districts
of the " Ballynahinch " and the " Gowla " Fisheries, and in some
other southern waters which will be mentioned below. The two
former districts are most strictly preserved.
Ballynahinch Fishery. This can be reached by fair roads
from either Ballynahinch Station or Recess Station, and good
hotel accommodation can be obtained at the Angler g or
Deradda Hotel, Toombeola Bridge, about 2-| miles from
Ballynahinch Station ; Recess Hotel, at Recess Station ; or Cashel
Hotel, 6 miles from Recess. "Hi-Regan" speaks of Recess and
Ballynahinch with high praise, recommending it as a centre
to both "ram-rods" and "fishing-rods." Spring is the time,
he says, for the largest salmon run, and both white and brown
trout are plentiful from July to the end of the season. The
rental and arrangement of the stands is under the management of
Mr. W. Blackadder, Angler's Hotel, Toombeola Bridge ; and the
charges are : for the day, 15s. ; week, 75s. ; month, £12, Boat
and man 2s. 6d. a day. Sea Trout Lakes, 7s. 6d. a day.
The "Gowla" or Cashel Fishery is leased by Mr.
O'Loughlin, the proprietor of the Zetland Arms Hotel, Cashel,
a hostelry high in favour with devotees of the gut and the gun,
and situated from 2 to 3 miles from the Gowla river and 6 miles
from Recess Station. The charge for a day's ticket is 10s. ;
weekly ticket £2 : 10s. Boat and man 2s. 6d. a day. To visitors
at Cashel Hotel the brown and white trout fishing on the Gowla-
beg stream (4 to 7 miles south) is free.
A wild road {fair cycling) crosses the moors in a south-east
direction from Cashel, over the neck of the Kilkerrin peninsula,
to Screel Bridge (11 miles), where there is work for the water-
220 RECESS
wlii^jpcr on raan}^ a land and sea lough. It is about 11 miles
thence southwards, by a good road, to the Costello river, on
Costello {pron. "Coslo") Bay, where there is an inn. East-
ward, beyond this, a pretty regular line of coast is followed
closely by the road to Galway, 25 miles from Costello river. At
n^ miles from Galway is Sinddle (Inn), where the Owenboliska
river can be fished ; and Hi-Rcgan speaks of several streams, such
as the Ballynew, Awinritf, and Loughkip, crossed by this road
west of Spiddle, as deserving to be better known to the angler.
On the west ami of Bertraghboy Bay, and 5 miles south-west
from Toombeola Bridge, \sRoundstone{M'Calla s Hotel), one of the
most health-giving resorts on the west coast, which has much
improved within recent years. The view from the town is of
considerable grandeur, the mountains seeming to rise from the sea.
Rare botanical plants grow in jirofusion on Urrisbeg, and the
purple blossoms of the gentian are seen everywhere. Within a mile
of the town lie Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay which present a
fine and safe bathing-place and are well worthy of a visit. There
is a Protestant and a R. C. church in the town. In the summer
there are two incoming mails daily.
At the south end of Bertraghboy Bay lies St. Macdara's Island, 6 miles
by sea from Roundstone. It can be also reached from Carna, some
5 miles wpst of Kilkerrin pier. This to the archaeologist is the most interest-
ing island between High Island and the Arans. It contains at the east point
" one of the most typical of the ancient ecclesiastical structures we possess,"
and one that " in some respects has no fellow." " The different features of this
church point strongly to a 7th-century erection " {F. T. Biggar). Though the
island is now uninhabited there is evidence that Saint Sinach ("the fox"),
olias MacDara, settled here in the Olh or Ttli century and built this chapel
of Cyclopean masonry. Fish and "kelp" must, we take it, have been a
pretty common dish on the table of his " establishment."
At Recess is the principal quarry of the famous ornamental
stone known as Connemara Marble, described by Dr. Hull as
composed of " crystalline limestone and serpentine." Those who
have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New
Geological Museum of Trinity College, Dublin, will remember
the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. There is also
a magnificent specimen in the Natural History department of
the Dublin Museum.
There is a rich treat for the cyclist along the road from Recess
Station to Kylcmore. This is a run of 13 miles along the
splendid road that goes northwards round the curving shores of
CLIFDEN 221
Loughs Derryclare and Inagh. The latter is one of the finest
bits of scenery to be found in Ireland, especially when one is
lucky enough to get sunshine on the eastern shoulders of the
"Bens" after rain. For the character of this view of those
mountains, see remarks on page 219. The only vegetation is on
the islands. For Kylemore see page 225.
Railway Route continued : — From Recess you pass Ballyna-
hinch Station, the most convenient stopping-place for Toom-
beola Bridge (" Deradda ") Hotel and Roundstone (see page 225).
It is a walk of about IJ mile from the station to the church by the de-
lightful road that passes Ballynahinch House, and from the rising ground
you will find some of the most charming little views in Ireland, if not
indeed in the kingdom. There is just enough foliage to make a rich fore-
ground, and through the opening trees the old ruined tower of the castle
stands black against the silvery lake that washes the feet of the graceful slopes
of Beugower. Some day perhaps the easel and the brush will penetrate thus
far, and then this land of beauty will no longer be unknown on the walls of
"Burlington House." This was for centuries the seat of the Martins, a
powerful family in feudal times. It was a common phrase among the
peasantry that " Colonel Martin was the best Martin that ever reigned,"
clearly denoting the almost regal power of the family, who possessed about
200,000 acres of ground in this country.
Beyond Ballynahinch the line runs near the Owenglen river
through a wild and rugged district for 8 miles to
Clifden (pop. 911 ; Hotel : Railway, new, with modern im-
provements ; M'Donnell's ; Pigh's). The town is quite modern,
and so late as the year 1815 there was only a single house on
the site. Its origin is due to Mr. D'Arcy, who first pointed
out the advantageous position, and offered "leases for ever,
together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short
distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per
annum." Clifden is favourably situated on a ridge at the head
of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast, of which a fine
view may be had from the neighbouring hills. It is a convenient
centre for the beautiful district between Lough Inagh (Recess)
and Letterfrack.
The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Work-
house and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedral. The latter has
indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out oi
all proportion to the population here. _,^t
222 CLIFDEN
Distances (road). — Galway, 49i ; Recess, 14 ; Roundstone, 12 ; Letterfmck,
9; Renvyle, 14 ; Kylemore, 11 ; Leenane, 21 ; Louisburgh, 42 ; Westport, 42.
Within a few miles of Clifden excellent shooting and trout-fishing are
available in connection with the Railway Hotel.
At the head of the two bays of Ardbear and Mannin, soutli of
Clifden, are the well-known oyster beds belonging to Mr. Corless
of Dublin.
Clifden Castle, formerly belonging to the D'Arcys, stands
about 2 miles up the bay. "After reaching the entrance of the
harbour of Clifden, and rounding a promontory, the castle comes
into view. It is a modern castellated house, not remarkable in
itself, but in a fine situation. Mountain and wood rise behind,
and a fine sloping lawn in front reaches down to the land-locked
bay, while to the right the eye ranges over the ocean until it
mingles with the far and dim horizon." The D'Arcys, who had
done so much to improve this portion of Connemara, became so
reduced by their liberality as to be compelled to sell their
property. The present proprietor has added to the castle and
also improved the ground.
Continuing the road past the castle, we may round the head-
land and return by Kingstown, where a boat may be hii'ed to
visit the island of —
AfiDiLLAUN or HioH ISLAND. This uninhabited island, the romantic home
of St. Feichin and his monks, was explored by Petrie and has been well
described in the U.S. A. I. Journal, 1S96, by Mr. Macalister, from whom we
borrow. Not far from Castlepollard, amid the bog-lands of Westraeatli, there
are at Fore the interesting remains of the once important religious settle-
ment of Saint Feichin. This vigorous niouk was the first to preach the
Gospel to the wild westerns of Galway, and at Omey and on High Island lie
raised churches and cells. " We may perhaps regard ourselves as tolerably
correct if we assign 630-640 as about the date of the foundation of the latter."
Gomigall, "the blue-eyed foreigner," probably lived here and died on
Ardillaun in 1017.
The island is only accessible in calm weather, and then the landing (at the
north-east) is difficult. The Chapel, the principal ruin, is at the south end near
the larger loughlet. As it is 3 feet longer than Molaise's Chapel on Inis-
murray, it is not quite the smallest chapel in the British Isles. The lintel
over the west door was once a " monumental cross," and the most interesting
cross here is on the .south side. Since Petrie's day the place has been shame-
fully destroyed ; the cells or dochans of the monast-ery have sufl'ored much,
and only two now stand. Though the existence of the monks' mill may be
disputed, the pilgrims' offerings sufficiently indicate the ancient fame of the
Holy Well, In the centre of the island.
CONNEMARA, EAST
Scale of Mites
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Cunin
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■IValker CrOoulaUu.
VuUwkf'l by A. <S. C. Black, London
CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT 223
CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT.
[For car arrangements see pink pages.]
Our road, which leaves Clifden at the west end of the Romau
Catholic Church, is at first through a wild and rocky country,
but the glimpses of mountain ravines, the varied views of the
Atlantic, and the alternation of hill and valley, contribute to
the interest of a very fine route, of which, however, the first
part is the best.
As far as Moyard (6 miles) take all the main turns to the right.
The cycling is nearly all good into Leenane.
About 2 miles from Clifden we get a fine view of Kingstown
Bay and the islands of Turbot and Lesser Inishturk to W.S.W.,
and a mile farther on we see Cleggan Head, Tower, and Bay,
and the islands of Inishbofin and Inishark to the north-west.
About 4| miles from Clifden we arrive at the crest of a hill,
from which a magnificent view is obtained of the valley in which
Letterfrack is situated, and of the Kylemore Mountains which
close it in. From this point there is a very fine sight of the
" Twelve Pins " standing out boldly. We have, in one grand
panorama, not only the Bens, but also a wide valley stretching
far ahead, in part a great brown waste of moorland, studded
with farmsteads and cabins, and bright spots in the midst of
the sombre hues, showing the gleam of lakes of various sizes
and shapes ; a splendid arm of the sea (Ballynakill Harbour),
almost completely land-locked ; a magnificent mountain pro-
montory, tinted with silver, grays, purples, and browns ; and
away 12 miles north-east is Mweelrea over Killery Harbour.
A little beyond Ballynakill Church and Renton (6 miles) we
bear left, and then past the little pier in full view of the graceful
cone of Diamond Mountain.
Letterfrack (9 miles ; Hotel : Casson's. Post Office). This
little village, well-nigh buried in fuchsias and breathing of
fairyland, is one of the sweetest bits in all Ireland, and vies with
Ballynahinch for first place as the sketcher's favourite haunt
in Counemara.
It lies at the foot of mountains of no common form and beauty,
and besides possessing the advantage of a good hotel, is an un-
commonly good centre for drives. The chief attraction to most
224 CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT
visitors is the neighbouring demesne of Kylemore, which will be
passed on the main road to Leenane, described bekw.
A most enjoyable road of 5 miles {excellent cycling) goes from
Lettert'rack northwards by Ballynakill Harbour and Tully cross-
roads to Reuvyle. The coast scenery about and beyond the
coastguard station is magnificent. The sea is studded with
islands and rocks of all sorts and sizes ; straight ahead is the
lofty hill on Clare Island, with Inishturk and many another
" luis " to the left ; far behind them in the distance Croaghaun
and Slievemore lift their shapely summits in Achill Island ;
while, to the right, Mweelrea, the aged sentinel of Killery
Harbour, rises over Salruck.
Mrs. Blake's Hotel, Renvyle House, is comfortable, romantic-
ally situated, and — as a building — probably unique of its class
in the country ; for its walls, within, retain their antique elm and
oak wainscotting, and it lies as snugly embowered as some old
English ' ' grange. " The story of the struggles which the hostess's
family have had to keep the property from the hands of
agents, first of Charles I. and then of Cromwell, is of much
interest. There is some shooting and fishing ; and the easel of
the marine artist is often to be seen on the shore.
The hotel stands on Lough Renvyle (fresh water), close to
the sea, and from Renvyle Hill (1572 feet) there is a splendid
view over the Atlantic and the many islands along the coast, as
far north as Clare Island in Clew Bay and the distant hills of
Achill. About a mile from the hotel are the ruins of Renvyle
Castle, witli old c:hurch and well.
A repaying excursion from Letterfrack or from Renvyle is to
Salkuck. Through Tully Cross Roads, 3 miles north of Letter-
frack, continue along the smooth coast-road to the slated house
on Lough liluck {cyclists will leave their macldncs here). From
this a roughish track turns sharply left and makes a steep descent
to Salruck, a beautiful wooded spot on a wild bit of coast.
A local hospitality of distributing pipes and tobacco at funerals
for the use of visitors, led an English newspaper correspondent,
lacking in knowledge of Ireland and the Irish, to originate a story
that tlio local peasantry made these votive offerings to the dead.
Returning to the slated house, turn left and keep the road that
skirts the north side of Lough Fee, From the point where this
strikes the main road it is 6 miles (left) to Leenane, and 9 (right)
to Letterfrack. Cyclists will bo happy on any of these roads.
LETTERFRACK 225
The direct road {good cycling) from Letterfrack to Leenane,
a distance of 12^ miles, tm-ns left at the Post Office, and for a
mile and a half consists of an avenue of fuchsias of unusual
height and flower.
We have never seen this shrub growing in greater luxuriance in our
islands ; not even in the Port Erin country in the Isle of Man.
In a reddish iron building, right of the road (1 mile), "the
new nursery of an infant Irish industry," is carried on the
CoNNEMAKA BASKET Ikdustuy. This— a most praiseworthy
effort — was started a few years ago by Miss Sturge. Since her
retirement, at the beginning of 1899, the formation of a company
for the working of the institution has been contemplated. The
basket-work is well worth inspection.
The beautiful Diamond Hill is away on the right ; and from
its eastern shoulder tumbles the Dawros stream, which the road
soon crosses. Then, at about 2^ miles from the Post Office, you
enter one of the most charming bits in all this land of inter-
mittent beauty — the demesne of Kylemore {admission granted
on application). Formerly it was of comparatively little interest,
but thanks to the liberality and taste of Mr. Mitchell Henry, the
fair setting of nature has been adorned with a fitting gem. By
a bridge you cross a stream which falls and glitters through the
crowded copse. Here are trees of every timber — holly, fir, ash
and birch ; around you the blossoms of fuchsia, laurestinus and
rhododendron scent the air ; whilst above, the slopes of Kyle-
more Hill roll mantled in foliage to the Castle lawn. To see
it at its best you want a warm and sunny day.
At the far end of the drive is the Castle, a fine mansion on
Lough Pollacappul ; and a little beyond it, eastward, is the
striking modern church, which has a good tower and handsome
window.
A little past the church, and 5 miles from Letterfrack, the
wild road from Lough Inagh and Recess comes in on the right ;
2| miles beyond (left) the main road is joined by the road
to Salruck and Renvyle ; then we approach the southern shore
of the Great Killeky, which is touched at the inn opposite
Bundorragh "Quay."
A Ferry Boat is sometimes to be had at this inn for the opposite shore and
Delphi ; but the hotel boat from Leenane is commonly used, unless the whole
15
V
226 LEENANE
circuit of the head of the bay at Aasleagh be made by llie new road. The
latter is a round of lOJ miles.
Two miles of delight for tlie man on wheels brings him to
LEENANE. ^'^'-^ I
Kearkst Railway Stations.— ,l/a«)/i Cross (15 miles); Ttu-css (17i miles);
Clifden (20J miles) ; Westport (SIJ mile.s ; or by Louisburgh, 35 miles).
Hotel. — M'Keowii's.
Cars (Sundays excepted). —Pnhlic car leaves Westport about mid-day and
arrives 4 hours later ; it reaches Clifden about noon next day. The
public car from Clifden to Westport starts after lunch and arrives 4 hours
later ; it pro(!eed3 to Westport next morning. See pink jxigei:. Local
excursions daily.
Distances. — Kylemore, 9; Renvyle, 17; Salruck, 8; Letterfrack, llj ;
Aasleagh, 2 ; Erriff Bridge, "J ; Nafooey, 10 ; Delphi, lOJ ; Doo Lough,
llj ; Louisburgh, 21 ; Cong, 27.
Visitors to this popular hostelry seem to acquire here new
powers of imagination. At any rate the popular comparison of
Killery harbour with some four-syllabled Norwegian fiord
appears to be somewhat strange. It is, we take it, the outcome
of evening chat ; and indeed a rich sunset can bathe even Ox-
ford Street with a glow as new and transforming as that which
irradiates the mind of man after a well-cooked (able d'hote. The
pleasant attractions of the place can well hold their OAvn in
popular favour without wild exaggerations.
The hotel accommodation is of the first rank in Ireland, and,
indeed, this is so well known a fact that intending visitors will
do well to write for beds beforehand.
The great attractions of Leenane lie in its convenience as a
"half-way house" between Clifden and Westport ; and its un-
usually favourable position as a centre for excursions of all kinds.
The chief of the latter will be noted below. Fishing for white
trout and salmon may be obtained on Tonyard Lake, which is fed
by the Erriff river ; and on several other loughs and streams the
sport is free. The bathing places for ladies (10 minutes' walk)
ind gentlemen (12 minutes) lie near to the road to Letterfrack.
The valley of the Erriflf rivei-, which at Leenane is deepened and widened
lato the Greater Killery or "red flord," is of considerable interest to the
geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and
Hull. It is sufliuient here to remind the general tourist that iu this remark-
THE JOYCE COUNTRY 227
able inlet, 12 miles in length, '' the glacial phenomena are very striking," and
the rocks are " scored with groovings pointing down the valley, while masses
of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that,
like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice
Age, a n,uch shallower valley, and a "channel of fresh water." Old "Moun-
tain terraces" may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the
road to Cong ; and at the head of the harbour the lines of " river terraces "
are easOy observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shore-
road are proofs of volcanic action.
Of the two favourite excursions that to Kylemore, if not
ab'eady included by the visitor in his journey from the west, is
the most important. It is 9 miles westward on the Letterfrack
Road, and is described on page 225.
Renvyle, 15 miles, and Salruck, 7 miles, are both dealt
with above, page 224.
To Aasleaoh, the hamlet at the head of the Killery, it is a
little over 2 miles, and Aasleagh Lodge Waterfall is a local
"lion," Five miles higher up the valley, along the direct
Westport Road, is
EiiRiFF Bridge, "A beautiful salmon river," says Hi-
Regan of the Erriff ; it is a stream which forms a good centre for
the fishennan, and is fed by the Owenduff stream and the Tonyard
Lough, in which the latter rises, and by the Glendawaugh, and
other higher rivers. Southwards, the Partry Mountains supply
fishing waters in Lough Nafooey and the Upper Aille, well
known to worm-baiters. Delphi fishing is mentioned below.
At the divergence of the road to Maam Cross, a little above
the hotel, there is a justly popular view of the "fiord" seen
from the foot of Devil's Mother Mountain (2131) — a hill which
ought to repay the climber with good views. This road, which
passes through the heart of the Joyce country, meets (5^ miles)
the road from Lough Nafooey, and its waterfall, and Cong (page
236).
Lough Nafooey is a beautiful sheet of water, and quite one
of the best bits in this district. It can be reached in 10 miles by
turning up the road referred to just above (good cycling).
The Joyce Country comprehends the north of the county of
Gal way, including in its area Killery, part of Lough Corrib,
Lough ilask, and the group of the Maamturk Mountains. The
first Joyce is said to have come to Ireland in the reign of Edward
I., and acquired extensive property in Jar-Connaught. The
228 OLIFDEN TO WESTPORT
Joyces have the reputation of being the tallest and strongest race
in Ireland.
In MwKELEEA (2685 feet), the noble mountain "which stands
like a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery
Harbour," the Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to
their highest point in the west of Ireland. It is well worth
ascending for the splendid views obtained : the hotel boatman
is a good authority on the most convenient place for a start.
The MAIN iiouTE on to Westport, 31^ miles, can be followed
round the harbour head, through Aasleagh {good cycling), or met
by the hotel ferry at a point IJ mile east of Bundorragh Quay
(see page 225). \ m. from Bundorragh observe the new National
School, built in 1899 ; and continue by a good road of If mile to
Delphi, one of the loveliest spots in the Western Highlands.
The Lodge, built by tlie late Marquis of Sligo on the site of the old
house, is commodious and well adapted for a sporting residence.
It is beautifully situated, smTounded by trees, by the small Fin-
lough, on a rocky promenade in the midst of a fine group of Scotch
firs. The little waterfall on the north side of the house is often
visited by tourists, who will find no difliculty in obtaining the
necessary permission. Finlough, with Dhulough (the black lake),
about I mile distant, and the river which flows into the Killery at
Bundorragh, form perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and
trout fishery in the kingdom. The lessee of the Lodge, with all
sporting rights, is the Rev. E. Spencer Gough, rector of Barning-
ham, Yorkshire. The excellent road from Leenane around by
Aasleagh and Delphi to the upper end of Dhulough offers a
delightful cycling run, and includes some mountain and sea views
not to be surpassed in the British Isles. During the Royal tour
in Ireland, in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to
Delphi, Princess Victoria and the Lord-Lieutenant spending some
time in fishing the river and lake, the Royal party afterwards
taking tea at the Lodge. The house overlooking Dhulough is an
attractive feature on going through the Delphi pass. It was here
that Waltham Howe, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while
on a fishing holiday in 1897. The house is now sometimes used
as an hotel by the landlord of the Leenane Hotel, who also rents
with it the fishing riglits of GlencuUen, a lake just above
Dhuhmgh. The road which brandies off to the left just below
Dluilough is a rather rough road, but the views of Tannyard
Lake, and in the Sheffry Pass, are of a wild, and it might be said,
magnificent character. It is tlio most attractive route from
LOUISBURGH — WESTPORT 229
Delphi, and also the shorter to Westport, and is by no means
impassable for a carriage and pair. The district is known as the
Barony of Murrisk, named, perhaps, after the old Abbey of
Murrisk on Westport Bay,
Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from West2)ort ;
small "Irish" inns only) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants,
within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry itself from all
attempt to adorn itself with outward attractions. Its sole
redeeming point is the politeness of its police officers ; its only
piece of antiquity the disused chapel, now converted into a stable.
Between this and Westport cyclists will find pleasant going,
and the views of Croagh Patrick on the land side (page 230) and
of Clew Bay on the other make the scenery delightful. Inns
are passed at Lochanvy, 5 miles, and Murrisk, 7 miles. Three
minutes away from the latter, and near the shore, is Murrisk
Abbey, which, as we have seen, gives its name to this Barony.
This religious house was founded by the O'Malley family for
Austin Friars. The east windotv, of the 15th century, is rather
uncommon and effective. Below is a fragmentary crucifix, and
at the stone altar a "holed stone." Some windows outside the
north-east walls may be earlier than the eastern one ; and out-
side the north door of the chancel is a chapel roofed over in the
fashion of the earliest buildings, with an upper room.
Westport (pop. 4070 ; Rotel : Railway. For cars see pink
pages). " Peerless Westport," Thackeray called it ; and for him
the head of Clew Bay had an extraordinary fascination. Many,
however, will doubtless confess themselves of a less impression-
able build. Or they may conclude that it would be with no
small reaction of feeling that, after eighteen miles of car -jolting
along the old south road through the dullest part of Mayo, un-
relieved by the fine coast scenery of the new route, the dust-
dimmed spectacles of " Mr. Titmarsh " were turned to the sunset
over the Bay, and "the cloudy west in a flame." Owing to the
new arrangements for the tourist-car route, the facilities for
reaching Achill and Mallaranny, and the rapidly increasing
popularity of other centres in Mayo and Northern Galway, the
interest of tourists has been seriously diverted from Westport.
The only architectural features of the place are the handsome
Protestant Church lately built by the Marquis of Sligo ; and the
statue of George Glendiuuing, which is as much embellished
230 CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT
with names and titles as that of Rice at Limerick is bare of
them. There are some pleasant villas near the town, and bath-
ing can easily be obtained in Clew Bay.
A road through the grounds oi Lord Sligo's Mansion leads to
the dull, dingy, and almost disused Quay, two miles away.
Hence, in the summer, steamers depart for Sligo, Glasgow, and
Liverpool.
The public car route to Leenane and Clifden has been de-
scribed the reverse way, pages 223, etc. Along the same road
to Leenane are Murrisk Abhey (see p. 229) ; and
Croagh Patrick mountain (2510 feet). This is popularly
known as " the Reek," and is a height of unusual interest. The
ascent may be made about 6 miles from Westport, opposite a
bridge at the head of an inlet, close by St. Patrick's Church,
Lecanvey ; or a mile farther on, opposite a road leading to the
ruins of Murrisk Abbey situated close to the shore. As the
ascent of the mountain is comparatively easy, entirely without
danger except in mist, and by a clearly marked path, there is no
necessity for the assistance of guiiles. Ponies can be taken three-
fourths of the way up the mountain. Croagh Patrick is regarded
as sacred to St. Patrick. While sojourning in Connaught the
saint was accustomed to spend Lent on the mountain fasting and
praying. There is also a tradition that he collected together on
the top of the mountain all the serpents in Ireland, and drove
them thence into the sea, and a hollow in the mountain is
pointed out as the place in which they endeavoured in vain to
take refuge on their descent.
The mountain, which is formed of quartzite, rises abruptly
from the eastern margin of Clew Bay. Its cone-shaped summit,
and its abrupt rise from the shore, lend to it an appearance of
greater height than it actually possesses. On account of its con-
nection with St. Patrick, it is celebrated as a place of religions
pilgrimage, and at certain seasons it is climbed by pilgrims from
all parts of Ireland, who " perform stations " as they ascend.
De Quincey, who as a boy of 15 climbed the mountain, In 1800, wrote
home that Croagh Patrick was " the highest mountain in Ireland." At the
top lia found "a circular wall very rough and craggy, on wliieh, at St.
Tatrick's Day, all the Papists, for many miles round, run on their knees
(quite bare) till the skin is off."
5^*.
CLARE ISLAND 2S1
The riew from the smamit embraceis a wide stretch of country
from Galway in the south lo Siigo in the north, and east^aids
in. nndeSned eiT^'nt of undulaiing ground forming the central
plain of Ireland. The chief f&atures of the prosy-ect are Clew
Bar, with its numerous islets at the western base of tie mountain,
and the wild and mountainous cliffs of Achill in the distance.
To the south-west there is a broad moor, bounded by Mweelre^
-•5S9 feet^ and other quartrite mountains stretching between
Killery Bay and Lough Mask : beyond them are the glittering
peaks of the Twelve Pins (Benbaunj the big " Ben," is probably
visible exactly over Delphi), northwards are the ranges of the Ox
Mountains, and adjoining Lough Conn the isolated dome of
Xepbin (2646 feet).
Clew Bat, in shape, resembles the pretty bay of Port Erin
iu Man. It is of course several times larger and, owing to the
small archipelago of islands at the east end, — "like so many
dolphins and whales basking there," — is not so clearly cut, but
the rectangular form, the deep retreat, its narrowed mouth
and the protection of the latter by hills at the north-west
corner, all find their parallel. Its beauties are indeed far famed.
We have already referred to the high praise bestowed upon it
by an author who declared he found in it " one of the noblest
views in the world." Mr. H. C. Hart, a critic of groat experi-
ence, writes of the bay as seen from Croagh Patrick as ' ' unsur-
passably lovely."
Geologists have proved the movement of the ice-flow from east to west
along the bay by the discovery of marked rocks on Old Head, Lonisburgh,
besides the great blocks there of " Serpentine, torn ttom the north slopes of
Croagh Patrick Ridge" (Hull).
Clare Island, at the mouth of the bay, has an area of 3949
acres, and its highest elevation is the Hill of Knock (1520 feet)
presenting bold and precipitous cliffs to tlie Atlantic. The
island is most conveniently visited from Achill Sound. The
island has now been purchased by the Congested Districts Board,
and the old system of holding the land in common, with divided
share in farm-work, has been changed to an organised tenure, by
which certain lauds are allotted to each tenant, and the pastur-
age rights, formerly common to all, are limited. Of the Cis-
tercian Abbey, founded iu 1224, there are remaius iu which may
be seen some fragments of fresco paintings and the so-called
232 CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT
tomb of Grace O'Malley. Notice the coat of arms, bearing a boar
and the motto ( — of the Royal Marines !), The towei of Granuaile
Castle, the ancient residence of the celebrated Grace O'Malley,
is situated above the harbour on the east. This lady became
the leader of her clan, and eventually gained the title of " Grace
of the Heroes." She was first married to O'Flaherty, Prince
of Connemara, and on his decease to Sir Richard Bourke.
"Tradition," says Otway, "hands down a singular item of the
marriage-contract. The marriage was to last /or certain but one
year, and if at the end of that period either said to the other,
' I dismiss you,' the union was dissolved. It is said that during
that year Grana took good care to put her own creatures in all
M 'William's eastward castles that were valuable to her, and
then, one fine day, as the Lord of Mayo was coming up to the
castle of Corrig-a-Howly, near Newport, Grana spied him, and
cried out the dissolving words, 'I dismiss you.' "We are not
told how M 'William took the snapping of the matrimonial chain.
It is likely that he was not sorry to have a safe riddance of such
a virago." Grace was invited to London by Queen Elizabeth,
who tried various ways of showing her attentions ; but the wild
daughter of the west could not appreciate the kindness of her
entertainer. (See also Duhlin Sect. p. 35.) (Visitors will find
the Clew Bay Hotel (J. Curran), 4 miles from Newport, comfort-
able and convenient for this visit. There is a landing jiier and
yacht anchorage.)
Westport to Achill Island (26^ miles hy train, aiid 9 on to
Dugori by road). The ride embraces varied views of the moun-
tains and of Clew Bay. At Newport, finely situated on Clew Bay,
there is an hotel, and fishing on the Newport River and in the
Beltra Lakes. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Burrishoole
Abbey, and a beautiful glen in the heart of the mountains.
From Newport we skirt the shores of Clew Bay as far as M^L-
lakax>;y (M. G. W. R. Company's Hotel), a delightful seaside,
at present in its infancy, with a beautiful smooth strand and good
bathing. After crossing the Curraun peninsula the train stops
at Achill Sound, which is spanned by a swivel bridge. At the
bridge there is a small and comfortable hotel, but visitors will
find it more convenient to proceed to the Slievemore Hotel
(Sheridan's) at Dugort, situated on the northern shore in the
vicinity of the finest scenery.
/
233
ACHILL.
Hotels at Dvan-R-r.—Slievemore, the best on the island ; and Sea View
(small). "St .ffcHiLL EouND there is a small hotel.
Distances.— Achill Sound to Dugort, 9 miles. From the Sound (by rail)
to Westport, 26J miles ; Claremorris, 52J ; Sligo, lOSJ ; Dublin, 187i.
The island has an area of 51,521 acres, and is triangular in
shape, its length from east to west being about 15 miles, and
from north to south 12 miles. A considerable portion of it
belongs to the trustees of a Protestant settlement.
The fisheries are of great value, but there is need of capital and
energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the in-
terior of Ireland. As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic
state of poverty, a fact sufficiently evident from a glance at the huts
of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in
other parts of the country, comforts have increased of late years.
As regards scenery, Achill Island surpasses the attractions of
the Arans and Rathlin, for romantic situation, and wild and
sti'iking views. Blacksod Bay, with its broken and winding
shores running between the Mullet peninsula and the mainland,
lies to the north, and to the south is Clew Bay, with its numerous
islets, overlooked by the cone of Croagh Patrick ; to the east are
the ranges of the Erris mountains, and to the west the ,broad
Atlantic. The climate is more bracing than that of the health
resorts farther south, and is said to be specially beneficial to
persons suffering from dyspeptic complaints. Adjoining the hotel
at Dugort there are magnificent strands for sea-bathing. Seal-
shooting may be enjoyed at the seal caves, and good white and
brown trout fishing oS^ the sandbanks.
The highest summit on the island is Slievemore (2204 feet),
the ascent of which is made near the hotel, and is comparatively
easy. Should visitors, however, be pressed for time they should
take the first opportunity of ascending Ckoaghaun (2192 feet) on
account of its extraordinary cliffs descending to the Atlantic, in
some places at an angle of 60 degrees. These are haunted by
the golden eagle ; and the face of Croaghaun is broken up into
screes and heavy shingle. In these western hills of Achill, as in
Erris Head and Belmullet, the geologist wiU find "archrean"
rocks "consisting chiefly of gneiss with masses of schist."
To the south of Slievemore is the semicircular Keera Bay,
■4
J
234 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN
where there is a salmon fishery. Eastward 5 miles, at the
southern extremity of Keel strand, are the Cathedral Cliffs of
Meenaune, 1000 feet in heiglit, and hollowed by the long
action of the waves through countless centuries into a striking
resemblance to stupendous Gothic aisles.
A visit should be paid, if time permit, to luisglore and Inis-
kea islands, celebrated in ancient legend, and formerly the
haunts of saints and recluses, of whose long-gone tenancy there
is still abundant evidence in numerous crosses and the ruins of
sacred edifices.
All this part of the western coast is of great interest ; and from Erris
Head round these cliffs of Achill and Clare island into Westport the coast
abounds in fine scenery whicli is at present little known. A -^Titer who
sailed round it in 1895 gave a glowing description of " the giant cliffs of
Acliiir'and " the great mass of Croghaun. . . . Rounding Achill Head, an
indescribably beautiful effect was produced by the height of Croghaun
towering over the line of hills which ends in Achill Head." Sir Harry
Johnston, the great African traveller, wrote in the visitors' book at the
Slieveniore Hotel, in 1902, " The side view of Croaghaun clifis I include
amongst the thousand bits of choice scenery I have met in all my travels."
Sir John Franklin also said, just before starting on his last fatal voyage,'
that the view from the summit of Croaghaun was the grandest panorama he
had met with in all his travels.
Route II (see page 2\5).
GALWAY TO CLIFDEN via LOUGH CORRIB
AND RECESS.
Ry steamer on Lough Corrib to Cong, and thence by car vid Clonbur and
Maam to Maam Cross, Recess, and Clifden.
For sailings of steamer between Galway and Cong, see pink pages.
Lough Corrib is about 30 miles in length, and its greatest
breadth is about 8 miles. The country immediately adjoining the
shores is flat and uninteresting, but the numerous rocky islets,
some of them clothed with stunted trees, lend picturesqueness to
the scene, wliile to the north-west the towering forms of the Con-
nemara Mountains are seen in the distance to great advantage.
According to fable the word Corrib is corrupted from the Giant
Orbsen's name. This giant, it is said, was killed by Uliiu,
another giant, in a great fight at Moycullen for the sovereignty
of Connaught ; and it was when his grave was being dug that
CLARE GALWAY 235
the waters of the lake gushed out and overspread their present
surface.
About 10 miles from Gahvay the lake contracts considerably,
so as almost to give the idea of two lakes. The lower reach thus
produced has very few islands upon it, but the upper expanse
has so many as to have given rise to the saying that there was an
island for every day of the year.
Steaming up the Corrib river we pass, on the right, 1 mile
from Galway, Mealough Castle, the seat of Sir Valentine Blake.
Shortly after entering the lake the celebrated black marble
quarries of Anglyham are seen, and a little beyond them the
Clare-Galway river enters the lake.
Clare Galway is 5 miles up this stream. An account of its ruins, by
Messrs. Kelly and Westropp, may be found in the Ant. Handbook, 1897. The
Franciscan Abbey was built in 1290 in a picturesque situation ; and even after
the dissolution in 1537 the faithful friars lingered round their home for two
hundred years. The tower, with traceried windows, is graceful ; and on the
north of it is a chapel still used once a year for celebration of Mass. The
east window of the chancel is of the same (15th century) date as the tower.
The cloisters and friary buildings stood on the south side.
The Castle was one of the Clanrickarde foundations.
At 5 miles we pass on the left the Inchacommaun islands,
and shortly afterwards on our right Rabbit Island. A mile
farther on, on the right, we see Annaghdown Castle and Abbey,
both in ruins.
At Killabeg, where there is a ferry, a road leads to Headford
(pop, 580; Hotel: Macorraack's), a clean and prosperous town,
about 1 mile from which, picturesquely situated on the Owen-
duff, is Ross Abbey, in remarkably fine preservation, and con-
taining a number of old monuments. To the north of the abbey
is the old castle of Moyne.
After we enter the upper reaches of the lake the islands
become more numerous, some of them being of considerable
extent. On Inchagoil {Inis-au-Ghoil, the "island of the
foreigner"), Lugnat, or Lugnald, a contemporary, and believed
to be a nephew of St. Patrick, took up his residence. His pillar
stone, with the inscription — Lie Lugnaedon Macc Lmenueh —
is still to be seen, and near it the remains of a church supposed
to have been founded by St. Patrick.
At the head of the loch are the woods of Ash ford, with the
mansion of Lord Ardilaun peeping out amidst the trees. A car
236 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN
from the hotel meets the steamer, and after a drive of a mile
and a half past the deer park of Lord Ardilaun we reach the
village of Cong.
Cong (pop. 227 ; Hotel : Carlisle Arms) is, as a village, dull ;
but to its abbey, river, caves, and mansion there is unusual
interest attaching. It also possesses an early Cross, inscribed in
Old Irish characters. The abbey is partly situated in the grounds
of Lord Ardilaun {admission at the cottage left of the carved
gateway). The ruins received careful attention at the hands of
Sir Benjamin Guinness, the father of Lord Ardilaun, who placed
them under proper control and rebuilt some of the cloister arcade.
St. Feichin of Fore, who erected churches early in the 7th
century on High Island (page 222), built here also a church.
The abbey was founded in 1129, by whom is unknown.
Afterwards, in the last part of the 12th century. King
Roderic O'Connor, the last monarch of Ireland, died, after
15 years of cloister life, within these buildings. Petrie con-
siders that most of the remaining walls date from the monk-
king's time.
The visitor enters by the west side of the Cloisters, and
crosses the cloister-garth. Here we have a piece of uncommon
"restoration." The beautifully-designed arches at the four
corners of the square are specially interesting from the fact that
fifty years ago none of them existed. All the arcading above
the bases of the shafts is modern, and was designed and
erected by Mr. Michael Foy, a stone-mason, now living in the
village (1898), whose artistic skill was as remarkable as that of
the builder of Adare Manor (page 180).
Beyond are three fine EARLY doorways facing you, in the
western wall, which afford a good illustration of the transition
from Norman to Early English. That on the extreme left is
quite unlike the other two, and of simple Norman character.
The central door is of somewhat more ornate Norman ; and the
riglit-hand one of the three, the west door of the Refectory, has
mouldings of the Early English shape, and is much more
elaborate.
On the left of the cloisters is the CiiURCii {entered from the
road), into which a fine late Norman arch forms an entrance ;
notice its capitals. The east window, of three lancet-shaped
lights, is smothered in ivy. Beneath a grave-slab, railed over,
LOUGH CORRIB
tVaUtr &-Bcutallsc.
CONG 237
in the middle of the chancel floor, rest some of the old abbots of
this house ; and adjoining it is the reputed grave of King " Rory"
O'Connor, over which is a curious incised cross, without arms.
The royal recluse was really buried at Clonmacnois,
South of the chancel are some gloomy chambers, one vaulted,
of early character.
In the early part of the 19th century the parish priest found in an oalcen
chest In one of the cottages of the village the celebrated Cross of Cong, which
is now in the Dublin Museum (page 15). It is a piece of very delicate
and beautiful metal-work, and was originally made about 1123 for the Arch-
bishop of Tuam, and was probably brought hither by King O'Connor. It
has been studded with other precious stones besides the central crystal, and
the copper face is richly adorned with interwoven tracery of gold. The
whole forms a metal case for the inner cross of oak ; and an inscription states
that it contains a portion of " the cross on which the founder of the world
suffered " (M. Stokes).
In this Abbey 'also was kept, during the 14th century, the Shrine of St,
Patrick's Tooth, now in the Dublin Museum.
Outside the buildings, on a rock jutting into the river, is the
Monks' Fishing House ; and from the adjoining bridge there is a
fine view of Ashford House,
Some very interesting /wweraZ customs of great antiquity have
remained in this village up to the present day. After a procession
to the Abbey, a pause is made at the cross-roads, and crosses are
deposited beneath an ash tree. The same ceremony is found
at Bannow {Dublin Sect. p. 73), and is also met with among
the Pyrenees and in France.
The demesne of Ashford. (Ticket, obtained in village,
must be presented punctually at 11 or 3.) The grounds,
which extend for more than two miles along the borders of
the lough, are finely laid out, and there are large herds of red
and fallow deer. The mansion-house is au extensive pile
of buildings in the castellated style, the materials being white
and gray limestone. The garden, pheasantry, and grounds are
readily shown.
The grounds surrounding the mansion of Lord Ardilaun are
on one side bounded by a wilderness of limestone rooks.
"While to the south of the village the road is overhung by
woods and flourishing young plantations, to the north hardly
any sign of vegetation is visible, the landscape presenting an
assemblage of gray limestone hills and boulders scattered
about in the wildest confusion. The geologist who makes
238 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN
a stay at Cong will be able to collect many Upper Silurian
fossils at Boocann and other places to the west of it.
Loughs Corrib and ]\Iask are joined by a river, which for three-
fourths of its course has a subterranean stream, and reajipears
again in the Mill Pond, 72 feet in depth. An attempt was made
to connect the lakes by a canal, afterwards called the "great
blunder," but the porous character of the limestone rendered the
enterprise abortive, after enormous sums of money had been ex-
pended on it. It is indeed this characteristic of the limestone
that explains the subterranean passage made by the river. At
various places there are openings where the course of the stream
may be seen.
Engineers are now (1904) engaged on a canal, which it is proposed to cement
and thereby stop all porosity. It is held that tlie best water-power in the
country can be provided in this manner.
The most remarkable of the caverns is the Pigeon Hole
(PoUna-g-columb), so called from the fact that it was at one
time frequented by pigeons. The Pigeon Hole may be reached
through Lord Ardilaun's grounds, or by the public road, the
distance from Cong being about a mile. The descent to the
cavern is made by a flight of sixty steps. A woman from a
neighbouring cottage generally follows visitors into the cavern,
and lights it up with a flambeau, with the aid of which we can
see the glistening of the water in the recesses of the cavern. In
winter, when the river is in flood, it covers the floor at the foot
of the steps, so that there is no standing room beyond them. A
legend states that twelve sacred trout inhabit the pool. Captain
Webb's Cave figured in the tragic family history of that local
Bluebeard.
The distance from Cong to Leenane is about 27 miles. For
a considerable distance we skirt the shores of Lough Corrib, of
which, as well as Lough Mask to the north, good views are
obtained, the foreground being shut in by the Mayo and Con-
nemara Mountains. Three miles from Cong a side road leads to
the spot where the carriage of Lord Mouutmorris was fired on by
disguised peasants.
By a branch line from Claremorris Ballinrobe {Hotel: Val ken burg's),
on the east side of Lough Mask, can be reached. Thence a deliglitful rido
along good cycling roads may be made to Leenane cither by Maan> (35 miles)
or through the scenery of Lough Nafooey (30 miles).
At Cloubur, midway between Loughs Mask and Corrib, is
LOUGH MASK 239
ihunt Gable Hotel, a convenient place to stay for fishing, which
is free. Trout and sahuon abound. From Clonbur a new road
leads to Leenane (20^ miles), passing Lough Nafooey on the way ;
and another new road goes over Mount Partry to Westport. The
steamer at Cong can be reached in 40 minutes from the hotel at
Clonbur.
Lough Mask, lying in a direction almost due north and south,
is about 10 miles in length, and little more than 4 in breadth.
Owing to the proximity of the mountains to the west, the
scenery in its vicinity far surpasses that adjoining Lough Corrib.
The lake contains upwards of twenty islands, the largest of
which is Inishmaan, on which there are remains of a fort said to
have been founded by Eoghan Beul, King of Connaught, in the
beginning of the 6th century. He was killed at SHgo in 537 in
battle with the people of Ulster, having previously ordered his
body to be buried in an erect position "facing Ulster," with a
"javelin in his hand, that even in death he might affright his
enemies. The position of the body seemed to act as a charm
upon the people of Connaught, who subsequently won every
battle, until the people of the north of h'eland came with a
numerous host, and carried the body northwards across the
river Sligo. It was buried at the other side at Aenagh Locha
Gile, with the mouth down, that it might not be the means of
causing them to fly before the Connacians." The remains of a
small but beautiful abbey also exist on the island.
The ruins of Mask Castle, a fortress built by the English in
1238, are on the shore opposite the island. Near it was the
residence of Captain Boycott, well known some years ago in
connection with the agrarian disturbances. On an island not
far from Ballinrobe are the ruins of a castle of the O'Connors,
known as Hag's Castle. It is surrounded by a circular en-
closure, and the island on which it stands is said to be artificial.
On the old road from Cong to Leenane there is an inn at Maam
at the head of Lough Corrib, the gateway to the mountainous
scenery of Connemara. At Maam a road leads to the left to
Recess (page 218).
For the route from Clifden to Leenane and "Westport, see
page 223.
240
WESTPORT BY RAIL FROM ATHLONE.
The route from Dublin to Athlone is included in that from
Dublin to Galway (page 193). Should Athlone be reached by the
Great South-Western Railway, it will be necessary to take a car
for the Midland Great Western Station on the Roscommon side
of the river. From Athlone to Westport our journey for some
di.^tance adjoins the western shores of Lough Ree.
The first town we pass of special interest is Roscommon, 18
miles (pop. 1994 ; Hotels]: The Royal ; Mitchell's ; both small).
Its ruins are of important interest for the antiquarian, who will
find useful notes on Roscommon and Ballintubber in the Ant.
Handbook for 1897. The town derives its name from an abbey
founded in the 8th century by St. Coman or Comanus.
About the middle of the 13th century a Dominican Priory
was also founded by Feidlim O'Connor, King of Connaught, who
was interred within its walls, and whose tomb, witli mutilated
effigy, is still pointed out. It is a very mixed work of art, in
fine Irish marble. The monument represents a mailed recumbent
figure placed ujion an altar-tomb, .the sides ornamented with
several compartments, in each of which stands a figure mailed
and armed. The monument has, however, undergone severe
mutilation.
The Castle, visible from the railway station, about a quarter
of a mile to the north of the town, was built in 1269, when the
oflice of Justiciary of Ireland was held by Robert D'UfTord.
There is, however, no doubt that a fortress of a much earlier date
previously occupied the site. The walls, of great thickness, are
defended at intervals by large semicircular towers. The building
is now a total ruin, although it is said that portions were habit-
able at the period of the Civil War, when tliey were set on fire
by a party retreating after the battle of Aghrim. "The work
of destruction must have been done by gunpowder, as large
masses of masonry lie close by."
Four miles from Castlerea is the Edwardian Castle of
Ballintober.
Ballyhauuis (43f miles) is the best station from which to visit
the churcli of Knock (8 miles by hired car), where the miracles
of healing and supernatural visions attracted large crowds of
pilgrims some years ago. Crutches and other relics may be seen
CONNEMARA, WEST
in
IValttr O- Boutalt sc.
Published hy A. £ C. B1oj:1c, London
CASTLEBAR 241
at the church, whicli is still visited by many devout Romau
Catliolics.
At Claremorris (46| miles) is an important junction. Tuam
may be reached by train. For Cong take rail to Ballinrobe, and
car thence, 7 miles. Sligo is 53 miles north by train.
At ManuUa (47f miles) a branch line turns northwards to
Ballina (20| miles). The next station, 52 miles from Athlone, is
Castlebar (pop. 3558 ; Hotels: Imperial ; Harvey's), the county
town, and residence of the Earl of Lucan. In the rebellion of
1798 Castlebar gained notoriety from an engagement between
a small French force and a party of English soldiers. The
contending parties were nearly equal in number, being about
1000 strong each. The English were but badly provided with
ammunition, and, with the exception of a party of the Eraser
Fencibles, were raw militia. The encounter is yet facetiously
alluded to as the "Castlebar Races." A slab to the memory of
the Fraser Highlanders who fell in the action was erected in the
church by Colonel Fraser.
In Castlebar was executed in 1786 the notorious George Robert
Fitzgerald, better known as "Fighting Fitzgerald." His resi-
dence was at Turlough, about 4 miles east of Castlebar, where
his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked
by an ancient round tower. From the railway we obtain a good
view of Croagh Patrick before reaching Westport (p. 229).
For the routes from Westport (1) to Leenane and Clifden see
page 230 ; (2) to Achill, page 232,
i6
242
WESTPORT TO SLIGO
AND THENCE TO DUBLIN.
To Ballina by rail vid Maniilla Junction. From Ballina by inail-car to Sligo
vid Dromore. From Sligo to Dublin vid Boyle, Carrick-on-Shannon, and
Longford.
(The direct route from Westport by rail to Sligo is vid Claremorris.)
Miles.
Westport.
Castlebar . . . 11
Manulla Junction . . 15
FOXFORD 26§
Lough Conn.
Nephin.
Ballina 35|
Killala Bay.
[Roserk Abbey, 4 m. I.
Moyiie Abbey, 6 m. I.
Milea.
Killala round tower and
cathedral, 8 m. I.]
Ox Mountains (r)
Dromore, West
Aughris Head (I)
Ballysodare Bay (1)
Ballysodare . . . ,
Rapids.
Abbey.
Knocknarea {I).
Slioo
67J
72J
All tourists who have come as far as this point on the western
coast are strongly recommended to see the best bit of the Sligo
district, if time allows. The route between Westport and Castle-
bar will be found described at page 241.
The first station after Manulla is Foxford {Hotel : Coghlan's),
on Lough Cullin, where, as on the Moy, there is excellent
fishing. Loughs Cullin and Conn are joined by a narrow strait,
crossed by a jjontoon bridge. Leaving Foxford, a fine view is
obtained of Lough Conn, a large sheet of water, being nearly
9 miles in length l>y about 1 to 3 in width. On the west side of
it rises the great Nei)hin Mountain, with a finely-shaped conical
summit, 264G feet above the sea-level. It is a singular fact
that there is occasionally a reverse flow of the Lower Lake,
usually called Lough Cullin, into the upper, or Lough Conn
projitr. The lake is situated about 40 feet above the sea, and
can have no tide communication with it. Tlie banks are in many
parts of fine sand, which indicates the high-water line. The
shores of the Lower Lake, on the west side, abound in little bays
and creeks, and show some bold outlines,
Ballina (pron. Bale-e-ndr ; pop. 4846 ; Hotels: Flinn's and Moy.
For cars see pink pages) is a clean, prosperous, well-built and
BALLINA TO DOWNPATRICK HEAD 243
uninteresting town, with some fair shops. The tide flows up to
the town, but the Moy is navigable only to the quay, which is
situated more than a mile and a half below it. The town is a
favourite resort of anglers, and the Moy is said to afford the best
fishing in this part of Ireland. The river is best from the middle
of March to the middle of May, and the loughs in June and July.
The iloy salmon-fishery belongs to a company, but there is some
good angling in the fresh waters ; tickets, 10s. a day. {Apply to
Messrs. Little, Solicitors, Ballina.)
There is salmon and trout fishing on Loch Conn (Loch Conn
Hotel, Crossmolina), about 6 miles from Ballina. There are
splendid views from the hill above Pontoon Bridge, and also on
the road to Crossmolina. The bay is famous as the rendezvous of
the French invaders in 1798. The garrison of Killala, only forty
men, was surprised by the French general, Humbert, who landed
with a thousand men. Next day a detachment of the French
were driven in by an English piquet, who, advancing too far,
were ambuscaded, and suffered considerable loss. The Rev.
George Fortescue, rector of Ballina, who had volunteered for the
occasion, was wounded in the affray. Towards night the French
advancing, entered Ballina, and drove out the loyalists, who
retreated to Foxford. The enemy retained possession for three
weeks, when they were attacked by General Trench, and ulti-
mately driven back to their ships.
BALLINA TO DOWNPATRICK HEAD.
From Ballina the railway runs 7 miles north-west to Killala,
on Killala Bay. Agreeable excursions may be made to Killala,
the abbeys of Roserk and Moyne passed on the route ; and to
Ballycastle, near Downpatrick Head.
Roserk Abbey is about 5 miles north of Ballina by the road
adjoining the river, beautifully situated on the river Moy, and
surrounded by undulating hills. This abbey is in a more
perfect condition than that of Clare-Galway (page 235), which it
somewhat resembles. Two miles from this are the remains of
MoTNE Abbey, built by De Bourgo in the 15th century. It
flourished for about 150 years, was a renowned seat of learning,
and boasted the best and most extensive library in any of the
western monasteries. Even in its decay some of the ancient glories
are still perceptible. 2 miles north of it is the town of Killala
(good hotel ; 7 miles by rail from Ballina ; small inn), interest-
244 WESTPORT TO SLIGO, AND THENCE TO DUBLIN
ing from the part it played in the disturbances of 1798. It has
a round tower. The bishop's palace forms part of the workhouse.
The direct road to Killala does not pass either of the abbeys. If
the road by the river is adopted, a turn must be taken to the left
about 1| mile after leaving Ballina. It is more picturesque but
more hilly than the other. Between Moyne Abbey and Killala
are the ruins of the first Christian church, of the time of St.
Patrick. In the immediate neighbourhood of Killala is the hill
where the ancient princes of luerughy and Tyrawley were
crowned. North-west from this a road of 10 miles leads to
Balhjcastle {Hotel), from which can be reached
Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of
magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head
visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused
by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approach-
ing this abyss, and looking down, at a depth of 2000 feet, the
ocean is seen rolling in through a subterranean passage called
the Poulashantana.
The journey from Ballina to Sligo (37 miles) is covered by
Walsh's cars, which start in the early afternoon. The cycling is
fair generally. From Ballina to Dromore the drive is, generally
speaking, unattractive. The country is flat moorland, and
only relieved by the distant view, on the right, of the Ox
Mountains. Beyond Dromore {large inn) the aspect of the
country is more cheerful, being better cultivated and more fertile,
though to the right it is still mountainous. On the left is
Aughri.s Head, a promontory guarding the southern shore of
Sligo Bay. Before reaching Ballysodare we have a view on the
left of the lake-like bay of the same name.
Ballysodare, finely placed at the foot of the Lurgan Hills,
is a village on the Owenmore, which falls into the bay over a
gcries of rocky ledges, forming a succession of rapids, ending
with a fine though small waterfall. The Abbey of St. F^ichin
overlooks the rapids on the west side of the river, where the only
good view of them is to be obtained. The remarkable salmon
ladders farther up should be seen. The jilace is much decayed,
and little more tlian a wreck of its former condition.
Here the road turns northward, in full view of Knocknarea, on
the left, with a southern face that is a very cataract of ochre-
coloured screes.
245
SLIGO.= ^^
RAtLWAY Station.— (Midland Great Western Railway) about { mile from
central Post-Office.
Hotels.— Kidorin, good, English Style; Imperial; Commercial; Bridge;
Harp.
When the author of the Irish Sketch Book omitted Sligo
from his trip, he did what the tourist of to-day should be too
wise to do: he missed one of the most interesting bits of the
country. The town and its pleasant surroundings deserve a
wider popularity than they yet obtain ; and for the scenery-
hunter and the antiquarian it ranks among the best centres in
the country.
The history of Sligo begins with legend. When "Nuada of
the Silver Hand " vanquished and killed the king of the Fir-
bolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is
fabled that "the tide will never cover it." Among recorded facts
is the founding of the Monastery and Castle by Fitzgerald, Earl
of Kildare, in the 13th century. In the civil wars the town was
captured by the Parliamentary troops under Coote.
Sligo is one of the most prosperous-looking places in Ireland.
Its streets are uot only well built, they are loeJl brushed; and
there are good shops. Two features of the town will seem to
not a few visitors from Britain like abstracted bits of " old Eng-
land " ; we refer to the warmly coloured Belfast Bank, and the
comforts of the Victoria Hotel. Among the buildings of chiei
interest are the ruined Abbey, the modern R.C. Cathedral, and
St. John's Church, The weir in the river Garrogue, which is cut
in two by the Victoria Bridge, may be here not so appreciated
perhaps as that amid the gloomier features of Galway, but it is
quite as effective ; whilst the imposing Town Hall will, as re-
gards its position on the outskirts of the town, compare with
that at Bray.
There are numerous excursions to be made from Sligo, some
of them being of quite unusual interest, and the scenery of
Loughs Gill and Glencar is charming, and should certainly be seen
by every tourist in western Ireland. For those again with anti-
quarian tastes, it is a land of plenty, as there are many ruins and
prehistoric remains in the district. (See Journal of R. S. Ant.
Irelatul, 1896).
246 WESTPORT TO SLIGO, AND THENCE TO DUBLIN
Fishing can be obtained witliout difficulty on Lough Gill,
where there are salmon, trout, and pike. In the early part of
the year salmon and trout are also caught on Mr. Wynne's pre-
serve at Glencar. Golfers will find a good course and a club-
house at Mosses Point. The latter is the nearest point at which
Sligo-ites may enjoy the bathing and the breeze of the free sea.
It is 5 miles north-west at the seaward end of Cummeen Strand,
the island-barred inlet which divides Sligo from the shore of
Sligo Bay,
Distances. — Ballina, 37 miles ; Ballysodare, 5 ; Bcillyshannon, 27 ; Bel-
leek, 32 ; Bundoran, 23 ; Dromore, west, 23 ; Enniskillen (rail), 49 ;
Glencar (round), 20; Grange, 9; Lough Gill (round), 25; Manor Hamil-
ton, 15.
Steamers leave Sligo for Glasgow (Laird) twice a week, for Liverpool (Sligo
Company) once a week, and for Westport once a fortnight.
The Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitz-
gerald, Lord Justice, is a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in
1414, but soon afterwards was re-erected. The choir has a
beautiful east window, of " reticulated " tracery, still perfect;
the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a
very rare specimen of a stone altar ; the top, with the crosses (of
the Five Wounds), is evidently the oldest portion, and with this
English visitors will compare the stone altar at Arundel in
Sussex. Near the obstructive central wall is the O'Crean monu-
ment beneath a once beautiful canopy. On the north side are
remains of the clulsters, pierced by good sharply-cut arches
upon pairs of carved shafts. Look for the bracket of the monks'
pulpit, the lover's knot, and the grave of P. Beolan, aged 144.
The east window of St. John's Church (John Street) is uncommon.
Tlie splendid carillon of chimes of the R.C. Cathedral will have been
heard before reaching that remarkable building, in John Street. This is one
of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, and Romanesque in char-
acter— a style uncommon in recent work. (Notice, in passing, the well-
carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building.) The tower
containing the chimes is massive ; and the winged angel over the east apse
is a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace. Owing to the lack of carved
ornament within, the bare forms of this style are unrelieved, and the whole
effect, though dignilled, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and
lofty triforiura.
Lough Gill, or, as it is sometimes called. Lough Gilly, lies
about 22 miles east of Sligo. The tourist can hire a boat at Sligo
GLENCAR 247
and row up the river to it ; ^ or he may drive round the north
side and return on the south through part of tlie beautiful
grounds of Ilazlewood by an order from the obliging estate agent
in Sligo. The trip is a most enjoyable one, and amply repays the
stranger. The secret of the beauty of this lough, as of many
popular lakes, lies, we venture to suggest, in its richly-wooded
isles and headlands. With its luxuriant and softly rounded
masses of beech and oak, it almost possesses on a small scale,
in spite of the comparative scarcity of ash-leaf colouring, the
charm of Killarney.
The delightful demesne of Hazlewood, on a peninsula at the
Sligo end of the north shore, and the Dooney Rock — a fine view-
point on the south shore — should on no account be missed.
To Glencar (8 miles) is a pleasant hour's drive. The road lies
along the lake shore and is usually in good order ; the lake is 2
miles long and nearly 1 mile wide. Salmon and trout are plentiful.
Though Glencar — which means, according to Joyce, "the glen
of the pillar-stone " — is not on a level with the more beautiful
Lough Gill, it is very pretty and makes an enjoyable excursion.
The outward journey should be taken along the north shore of
the lough — a perfect road for the wheels — and after bending
round, some mile or so beyond the east end of the lough, the
road from Manor Hamilton will be struck, which returns direct
to Sligo. On the north shore is Siberry's cottage {tea and far-
famed bread), from which a short rise leads to
Glencar Waterfall, a good and deservedly popular pic-
nickers' haunt. As you ascend the steep "brae" to this, look
back at the striking views, westward, of the rocky buttresses of
King's mountain, Benbulbin's southern foot. The waterfall is,
to be exact, composed of three cascades, each separated by a few
minutes' climb among rocks and foliage. Westward from the
cottage, along the road, is the county-boundary bridge ; and
here, when the wind blows from a certain point, the water of the
Struth-an-ail-an-crd stream is driven upwards and back again
over the mountain. Another path behind the cottage leads to
the "Swiss Valley." Among these northern rocks fern-collectors
may find some uncommon specimens, which for obvious reasons
we forbear to name.
1 Boat to lieail of lake, with rower, 5s. or 6s.
248 WESTFORT TO SLKiO, AND THENCE TO DUBLIN
The excursiou to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may
include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare pre-
historic remains. Tlie whole round is about 13 miles. By
taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group
of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore.
A few miles north-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south
side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea,
"the Hill of Executions" (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the
top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said
to have been erected in lionour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of
Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands i
ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is |
200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her name- '
sake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 46). Tlie fine view extends
from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west). j
Other excursions may be made to Dromahair ; O'Rourke's |
"smiling valley," with the "table" above it; the stone altar
of Tober N'Alt; and to Drumcliffe and Linadil, off the road to !
Bundoran ; or Benbulbin, beloved of botanists, may be ascended. '•
The Road to Bundoran {daily cars; early morning and
afternoon) runs northwards round the western foot of Benbulbin, I
and passes, in 11 miles, through Grange, the best boat-landing <
for Inismurray (see p. 249).
BUNDORAN.- ' i^ ^-^«^ ^^-"^-"^
1
UuTBLS.— Great A'orr/i«rn .■ Uumiltua's ; Marine; :<u'ecnei/'s. '
Distances.— Dublin, by rail, 160 miles, in 5J hours ; Belfast, ISO, in 5] hours ; ,
Sligo, by road, 24 miles ; rettigo (Longh Erne) 20 ; Enniskilleu, 32i ; i
Manor Hamilton, 20 ; Donegal, 17 ; B.illyshannon, 4J.
This increasingly popular health resort can no longer be con- ,
Bidered out of the way, since the trains of the Great Northern '
Company now cover the distance between Dublin or Belfast |
and Bundoran in less than six hours. Brushed by outer cur- ;
rents of the Gulf Stream, and washed by Atlantic "rollers," !
this delightful sea-side on Doncgil Bay is rapidly rising in '
favour, owing to the natural attractions of bracing air from j
mountain an 1 sea, its .'splendid bathing ground, its cliffs and |
caves. Excursions of interest may be made to Ballyshannou j
INISMURRAY 249
Falls (river Erne), 4^ miles ; Lough Melvin, '2, miles, dotted
with many beautiful islands, and surrounded by fine natural
scenery ; to Belleek and its pottery, 9 miles ; to Mount Benbulbin,
with its fine views and profusion of wildtlowers, 17 miles.
Melvin Lough and Drowes River afford fine sport to the
angler, and there is fishing on lower Lough Erne by application
to the Overseer of Fisheries, Ballyshannon.
Golf Course. — The golf course, nearly two miles in extent,
and along the sea-coast, consists of nine holes. The turf is ex-
cellent, the putting greens admirably kept, and the hazards,
sand bunkers, and runnels pretty numerous and sporting. There
is a club of more than 100 members, and a new and comfortable
club-house.
There is a very pleasant walk over the green carpeted Augli-
ross Hill to the Fairy Briiijes and Finner Strand. Among the
popular excursions also are the trips to Enniskillen and Clones
(by train) ; Tullaghan, near wliich are the ruins of Duncarbey
Castle ; Sligo by Grange and Drumcliffe ; Benbulbin and its
group of mountains ; the Dartry Mountains ; Lough Melvin,
with its finny population'of gillaroe trout ; and last, but^for the
anti(iuarian and others — not least, the island of
Inismurray. A boat can be taken from Grange, 8§ sea miles ; or from
Rosses Point, 17 miles. The pier is at the south-east point of the island. To
those of an antiquarian turn of mind this will prove a very interesting ex-
pedition. Any history of the island to be had at present is of the scantiest
description, but Mr. Wakeman gives proofs that the oldest buildings here are
pre-Cliristian, and Lord Dunraven tliinks that of all remains of early Irish
monasteries this group is " the most characteristic example." It seems to be
connected with the work of St. Muiredach of Killala, the 5th-century disciple
of St. Patrick ; and it appears pretty certain that in the 6th century St.
Molaise built a church here. The largest ruin is tliat of the pear-shaped,
prehistoric cashel : within this wall are bee-hive cells, crosses, altars, and
three churches. Malaise's House (9 feet) is the smallest Christian Churcli in
the British Isles, and contains an oaken figure of a priest (?) which tradition
says is that of Molaise, and " the work of the celebrated Goban Saor." There
are also the Teath-aa-Alais (hot-air bath), the Altar of the Speckkd Stones, and
Malaise's Altar, bearing still the tombstone inscribed with the name of
" Muredach grandson of Chomocan," and ending with Hie dormit, — "the
only instance in Ireland of the Latin formula" (Caoke).
There are the "Church of the Women" and the "Church of the Men,"
with equally distinct cemeteries ; and the natives liave the same supersti-
tion as those near St. Blane's Chapel in the Scottish Bute, that " if a woman
be buried in the men's ground, the corpse will be removed during the night
by unseen hands." More interest would belong to this island city had not
250 WESTPORT TO SLIGO, AND THENCE TO DUBLIN
the ignorant and barbarous hodmen of the Board of Works, after their
doctoring of the ruins in ItiSO, left much of the group "transformed." (Afr.
Cooke's account in R. S. A. I. Haiulhook II. for general readers, and the works
of Lord Dunraven and Mr. )Vak(mn.n for antiquarians are recommended.)
From Bundorau it is 9 miles to Belleek, one of the best
centres for the angler, and a clean and pleasant village, with a
pleasant modern hotel. It stands at the north-west extremity of
Lower Lough Erne, where were the well-known falls or " Rapids
of Belleek." Here are the famous sluice gates by which the
waters of the river Erne are regulated, so that when in flood it
may not inundate the low lands along its course for 52 miles, as
far as Cavan, and at the same time may retain enough of water in
Lough Erne for the use of the steamers plying on it. The china
factory, to which Belleek owes principally its reputation, should
also be inspected. The clay for the manufacture is, or was,
found iu the neighbourhood.
The best way to reach the Donegal Highlands from Sligo is by
mail-car to Ballyshannon vid Bundoran, but they may also be
approached by rail vid Enniskillen.
The drive by car to Ballj'shannon is one of great beauty,
splendid views being obtained of the Benbulbiu Mountains,
of the sea, and the Glencar range to the east.
At 5 miles from Beleek, and 4 from Bundoran, we reach
Ballyshannon (pop. 2471; Hotels: Imperial; Commercial),
situated at the mouth of the Erne, on which there is a remark-
able cataract called the Salmon Leap. A short distance from
the town are the remains of an old abbey founded in the 12th
century. In the adjoining glen there is a curious cavern.
Sligo to Longford. — The journey from Sligo to Longford by
rail lies through Ballysodare to CoUooney. On the left, beyond
CoUooney, a prominent ol)ject in which is the steeple of the
handsome Roman Catholic church, we pass the demesne of
Markree, the seat of Colonel Cooper, with a fine castellated
mansion and observatory. For some distance on the way to
Ballinafad, Lough Arrow extends on the left, a pleasant expanse
of water, about 4 or 5 miles long by 1^ wide, containing several
beautiful islands, and in the same direction Carrokee Hill (1062
feet).
BALLINAFAD— LOUGH KEY 261
Ballinafad is a small towu, with a dismantled castle of the
same name, founded by one of the M'Donoughs. In its neigh-
bourhood are two places, one entitled Moij Tuiridh, remarkable
as the scene of a decisive battle between the ancient Belgic and
Danish colonists of Ireland, and the other, Ceis Cormn, famous
in romantic legend. The railway now rises through the Curlew
Hills, on descending which we have a good view of Lough Key
and Boyle.
Boyle (pop. 2464 ; 28| miles from Sligo ; Hotel : Royal) is
well situated on the banks of the Boyle river, and exhibits an
aspect of thrift and comfort. The handsome Roman Catholic
cathedral, erected 1882, occupies a prominent position to the
east of the town. The ban'ack was formerly the residence of the
family of King-Harman, the proprietors of the town, who granted
the inhabitants a small park. Boyle is the best centre from
which to fish Louglis Arrow, Gara, and Key.
The Abbey of Boyle, on the river (north), is of a Cistercian
foundation, built between 1150 and 1200. It is of considerable
interest owing to the various periods of early architecture it
exhibits, the good condition of the church, the kitchen and
other outbuildings, and the unusual elaboration of some of the
carvings. Of the Church the oldest part is the south side of the
Nave, pierced by Norman arches ; opposite are Early Pointed
arches of the same character as the chancel arch ; it has a large
central tower. About 2 miles away (north-east) is Lough Key.
Lough Key is a small lake, but excels many of greater extent
in this district in the woods which adorn its banks. There are
several islands, the most notable being Trinity Island, with the
ruins of a religious house ; and Castle Island, with a castle of
the M'Diarmids, the walls of which are still standing. Skirting
the lake, and almost surrounding it, is Rockingham, the seat
and beautiful demesne of the Lord-Lieutenant (the Earl of
Dudley). There is good trout and pike fishing, while the lake is
covered with wildfowl, cormorants building their nests in the
trees — a very unusual feature.
The next lough north-east of this is Meelagh, near which is
the cemetery of Kilronan. Here " was buried the famous Carolan,
one of the last of the veritable Irish bards ; and here for several
years the skull that had ' once been the seat of so much verso
252 WESTPORT TO SLIGO, AND THENCE TO DUBLIN
and music' was placed in a niche of the old church, decorated,
not with laurel, but with a black ribbon. He died in the neigh-
bourhood in the year 1741, at a very advanced age, notwith-
standing that he had been in a state of intoxication during
probably seven-eighths of his life."
At Carrick-on- Shannon (pop. 1177; Hotel: The Bush) we
enter the county of Leitrim, of which it is the assize town. It
was incorporated by James I. The court-house is a good build-
ing with a Doric front.
Drumsna is a pleasant little village near the \vell-i)lantcd
estate of Mount Campbell, the residence of the late Admiral
Rowley. Through a poorly cultivated country, improved by many
mansions and woods, we proceed to Dromod, where interesting
views are obtained of the Loughs Bofin and Boderg, both enlarge-
ments of the great river Shannon.
Rooskey Bridge is an insignificant village, where the Shannon
is crossed, below Lough Boderg. On our way thence we pass
through Newton Forbes, and on the right, Castle Forbes, the
beautiful seat of the Earl of Granard, and proceeding over a flat
rich country, soon arrive at Longford.
Longford (pop. 3827) possesses a fine Roman Catholic cathedral
and some remains of an old castle and a Dominican abbey.
Nine miles farther on we pass Edgewortlistown, the birth-
place of Maria Edgeworlh, where Sir Walter Scott stayed in
1825. "Mrs. Edgeworth's brother," says Lockhart, "had his
classic mansion filled every evening with a succession of distin-
guished friends " to meet the poet. It is interesting to note
that both Maria Edgeworth and Oliver Goldsmith derived their
fondness for Irish character and manners from this same district.
Then after Cavan Junction, where a branch diverges to Cavau,
we reach Mullingar, already described (p. 194).
268
LOUGH ERNE DISTRICT.
MULMNQAR TO EnNISKILLEN, BY RaIL.
Miles
Miles
from
from
Dublin.
Dublin.
MuLLiNGAR (by rail as at page
Butler's Bridoe.
193)
50
Loiigli Oughter.
Lovigh Owol.
Wattle Bridge
. 96i
MULTIFARNHAM
57i
Newtown Butler.
Float Road, for Castlepollani
64i
Cruin Castle (2 in
?.)
Balliwillan for Granard
70
Lismaskea
. 105|
Crossdoney ....
81i
Bellisle {I.)
Cavan
85|
Enniskillen and Lough
Erne ai7|
This route will give the tourist a rapid glance of the central
districts of Ireland, as it traverses the counties of Westmeath,
Longford, Cavan, Fermanagh, and Tyrone. The railway between
MuUingar and Dublin has already been described.
For some distance after leaving Mulllngar the line runs along Lough Owel,
the water of which is 329 feet above the sea {Clonhugh station,f6 miles). It
is about 5 miles long, and though its neighbourhood is very sparingly planted,
it is not altogether destitute of beauty. There are several gentlemen's seats
on the margin of the lake.
At Multifaraham are ruins of a Franciscan abbey, with a steeple, founded
in 1236 by William Delawere. In 1529 the Observantines held a chapter in
the abbey. To the north of Multifarnham is Lough Dereveragh, at the upper
end of which Knockeyon (707 feet) is a conspicuous object from every side.
To the south-west of Multifarnham is a hospital for the education of Pro-
testant orphans, endowed by the late Andrew Wilson with an annual revenue
of £4000.
From Inny Jiinctlon a line goes off north-west to Sligo (74 miles;.
Float Road is the station for Castlepollard, the best centre for the fish-
ing on Lough Dereveragh (p. 194). Pore is 4 miles east, where are remains
of St. Feichin's 7th-century abbey (p. 222).
Between Ballywillan (19|) and Crossdoney tlie line runs through uninter-
esting country between Loughs Gowna and Sheelin.
Crossdoney is a pk-asant little village, with numerous seats in its im-
mediate vicinity— Lisinore Castle, Belleville Castle, Crosby, and Drumcarbin
are among the number— and good fishing in the river and its tributaries.
254 LOUGH ERNE DISTRICT
Oavan (35^ miles; pop. 2968; Hotels) is the assize town, situated in the
centre of the county, in the inidst of a very fertile country, possessing few
olljects worthy of notice. Here we change from tlie M. G. W. R. to tlie ffreat
Northern branch line.
Famham, the beautiful demesne of Lord Farnhaui, lies to the west of
Cavan, between the town and Lough Oughter. The line here passes through
a country possessing only the attraction of a fertile soil.
Butler's Bridge, on the left, is a small village on the river Annalee, a
tributary of Lough Oughter. Passing the demesnes of Holies Wood and
Clover Hill, we see on our left the handsome mansion of Castle Saunderson,
the seat of Alex. Saunderson, Esq., beautifully situated at a considerable
elevation above Lough Erne. Passing Belturbet junction {Ballyhaise) we
soon reach the junction of
Clones, where the Gt. Northern Railway may be taken direct to Belfast,
Dublin, Dundalk, or Enniskillen (pop. 2032 ; Hotels : Lennard Arms ; Robin.
son's Temperance Hotel), is a town of historical interest. A curious old cross
with sculptured figures stands in the main square of the tovrn ; there is also
a round tower of the 2nd class in order of date, and the nave of a 12th-cen-
tury abbey, built on the site of a 6th-century church. The latter is interest-
ing to antiquarians.
Proceeding onwards, we enter County Fermanagh and the Erne district.
This may be compared to a rough parallelogram of 40 miles in length by 20
broad, and is occupied by two lakes, the Upper and Lower Erne. The
upper, which we approach first, is an uninteresting stretch of water, narrow
and winding, and devoid of that luxuriant vegetation which renders the
lower Lough so picturesque. The real scenery of the lakes commences at
Ely Lodge, 5 miles to the north of Enniskillen, and tourists need not delay
their route short of that town. The geologist, however, will remark a
considerable difference in the rocks between those of the upper and lower
lakes. Limestone and the coal-measures extend along the upper section of
the lake country, while the lower is, with the exception of some limestone
at Kesh, occupied by the Old Red Sandstone. About 17 miles short of
Enniskillen is
Newtown Butler (pop. 42() ; Hotel), a smalltown situated on an elevation.
The main street, in which is the market-place, rises abruptly. Three miles
west is Orom CA.STLE, the seat of the Earl of Erne, situated on the shores of
the lough. The demesne is well wooded, and laid out with great taste.
Among other objects of attraction it contains a fine yew-tree, said to be the
largest in the kingdom, and the ruins of the old castle of Crom, which held
out for several days against the army of King James in 1689. Newtown Butler
Is famed in history as the place where, in 1689, the Enniskilleners defeated a
host of native Irish, and while slaying 2000 of them, they lost only 20 men.
The line proceeds north-west at no great distance from the Upper Lough
Erne, of which occasional glimpses are to be had, passing Lisnaskea, belong-
ing to the Earl of Erne ; Bellisle, once the beautiful residence of the Earl*
of Rosse, but now occupied by J. O. Vessey Porter, Esq. ; and Castle Coole,
the magnificent seat of the Karl of Belmore.
MULLINGAR TO ENNISKILLEN BY RAIL 255
Enniskillen (pop. 5570; Hotels: Imperial; Royal), ouce the
fortress of the Maguires, is the chief town in Fermanagh. It
is built upon an island in the river connecting the Upper and
Lower Loughs Erne, and partly on the mainland, with which it
is connected by two bridges. The tourist should remain here for
two or three days to visit the objects of interest in the beautiful
neighbourhood. The town contains one main street, which
pursues a somewhat zigzag course from north to south. The
Parish Church, which stands on the highest point in the town,
has several good windows. Well-worn colours of the Enniskillen
regiments hang in the chancel. The Roman Catholic Chukch
and the new Town Hall deserve a visit. A considerable quan-
tity of crochet lace is made in the neighbourhood, but the butter-
market, held on Tuesday and Thursday, has been much reduced
owing to the establishment of local creameries. The 6th regiment
of Dragoons, known as the Inniskillings, was principally raised in
this town, which is an important military station, containing large
barracks and two forts to command the pass across the river. Of
the old castle, which stood a memorable siege in 1595, there re-
mains a gateway, included in the barracks. A column, surmounted
by a statue of the late General Cole, stands on the summit of
Forthill, which is laid out as a promenade and public park.
To the west of the town is the Portora Royal School, styled the "Irish
Eton," and well worthy of a visit by those interested in oiir educational
institutions. An agreeable drive may also be taken to Castle Coole (Earl
Belmore), one of the finest Grecian mansions in Ireland, erected by Wyatt.
The tourist is freely admitted to the grounds, which are beautifully laid out
and adorned with rows of magnificent oaks and beeches. A longer excursion
may also be taken to Florence Court (Earl of Enniskillen ; public admitted),
about 8 miles south-west of Enniskillen, crossing the Arney, returning by the
Marble Arch, Lough Macnean, and the Boho Caves to Ely Lodge (Marquis
of Ely), on Lough Erne. This round, however, will take a whole day.
LOWER LOUGH ERNE.
[A steamer leaves Enniskillen in the morning and reaches Castle Caldwell, 5
miles from Belleek, about mid-day. It starts back to Enniskillen again
in the afternoon (see pink pages).]
This is a very fine lake, with many features of varied char-
acter F,nd interest. "How many thousands there are," says
a well-known writer, "who, if just ideas could be conveyed
to them of its attractions, would make their annual tour
266
LOUGH ERNE DISTRICT
hither, instead of \ip tlie hackneyed and soddened Rhine,
infinitely less rich in natural graces. Perhaps nothing in
Europe can surpass the beauty of this lake." High praise,
indeed ! Too high, we venture to think ; for many will agree
that — to go no farther afield — even Mr. Austin's utterance upon
Killarney was more richly merited {Killarney Sect. p. 147). All
tourists, however, who can include the steamer trip in their
programme will be well repaid.
It will be noticed that this lake, like Lough Derg, widens out
in some places and in others becomes contracted. "It spreads
out considerably in the direction of Kesh, where its bed is
limestone from side to side. . . . Part of this surface con-
figuration is doubtless due to the irregular distribution of
Boulder clay and gravel, accumulated by the great ice-stream
which moved northwards along the valley of the Erne from the
central snowficld ; but another cause is the solubility of lime-
stone under acidulated water " {Hull).
With cyclists the west shore-road, which keeps close to the
lake, is a very popular ride of 23 miles from Enniskilleu. It
passes that beautiful spot Ely Lodge (5 miles), a popular view-
point over the lough. Or the road that follows the east shore
may be taken — a few miles longer ; this passes Kesh (14), Pettigo
(20^), and Castle Caldwell (27) stations.
The lough owes its charm to the form and foliage of the many
islets with which it is studded ; and all who find interest in
MULLIXGAR TO ENNISKILLEN BY RAIL
257
groups of ancient buildings will do well to make an early ex-
cursion by boat — a matter of only 2 miles — to IJevenish Island.
Deverish (meaning "the island of the oxen," and probably the exact
equivalent of the Scottish Jnchnadamph\ though green as an emerald, is
destitute of the foliage which adorns most of the other islands. A very fine
round tower, selected for illustration by Dr. Petrie in his work on the Round
17
258 LOUGH ERNE DISTRICT
Towers of Ireland as the most ijorrect in the kingdom, stands not far from
the ruins of tlie abbey. " It is exactly circular, (50 feet high to the conical
converging at, the top, which has been restored." The whole tower is very
neatly built with stones of about a foot square, with scarcely any cement or
mortar, and the inside is almost as smooth as a gun-barrel. This tower is
singular in the possession of a sculptured band of curious design at the eave
of its conical roof.
Its comparatively elaborate workmanship marks it as of late date among
the round towers ; and it appears to be of the same period as those of Glen-
dalough and Kilkenny.
It appears that St. Molaise was the first founder of a Christian church
In Devenish. lie died in 503 or 570. There are the remains of two churches
in the island. That termed the upper is the more beautiful, and appears to
be of much more recent erection than the other. It is still customary for
the peasantry to have their deceased friends interred among the ruins of this
holy spot, as at Seattery and Glendalough.
In Dublin Museinn may be seen the book-cover or shrine for St. Malaise's
Gos]>els. It is of bronze plated with silver, and is " the oldest of these cura-
dachs or shrines," according to Miss Stokes, who dates it at a.d. 1001.
Upper Lough Erne is best visited from Newtown Butler and
Clones. By soiuo the Upper Lough Erne has been much pre-
ferred to the Lower. One writer urges the tourist to "traverse
the entire expanse of Upper Lough Erne, enjoy its unrivalled
scenic charms, glide among the countless islands which stud its
surface, admire the extensive stretch of sylvan and pastoral
borderland reaching to the mountains in the background, gaze
on the towering cliffs which sentinel the enchanting scene,
admire many a stately tower and lordly castle, and visit nature
in lier unfrequented haunts." As yet tliere is no steamer on
this lough, but an attempt has been made to provide one so as
to open up the scenery to strangers.
After proceeding from EnniskillentoCastleCaldwellor Belleek,
by the routes described on pages 255, 256 above, the tourist
may continue by rail (4i miles) to Bally.sliannon near the coast
(page 250). He may then turn south 4| miles to Bundoran ;
or nortlnvards by a fair road of 13 miles to Donegal.
[Although Enniskillen and Lough Erne have been described in
connection with the Connemara district, it is not because they are
more closely connected with tliat tour, but in constquence of
Enniskillen occnpj'ing a sort of debateable ground between tlie
North and the West tours. To travellers bound eitlier for Con-
nemara or Donegal, this station acts as an excellent base for
visiting tlie lake, with which Lough Gill alone contests the
honour of being next in beauty to Killarney.]
259
BELFAST FROM DUBLIN, by Gkeat Northern Railway
(Ireland).
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
Clontarf Castle.
Raheny Village.
HowTH, 3J m. dis-
tant. The Hill of
Ilowth visible.
PORTMARNOCK HO.
Malahide Hill.
Broomfield House.
Seapark.
The Village of Ma-
lahide. P. 37.
N'ewport (Colonel
Bowrn). Kuins of
Lanilerstown withiu
the demesne.
Lambay Island lies
off about 3 m. south-
east of Rush.
°^ Rush, 2 m. dis-
tant. A fine Roman
Catholic fhapel and
schools in the village.
A fishing village, ex-
ports cod -liver oil
and salt fish.
112i
llOi
lOSJ
lorj-
lOJj
103:1
1001
98i [
STATIONS, ETC.
Dublin.
Amiens SIveet Ter-
minus. Built in the
Italian style with
fagaile of Wicklow
granite.
Line passes about
one mile Irom Clon-
tarf, the scene o)
Brian Boroimhe's
victory.
Raheny.
Junction.
Portraarnock.
Pass through a deep
cutting.
Malahide.
The Malahide estuary
is crossed on a
wrought-iron lattice
viaduct, having 12
spans, 8 of them 52
feet wide.
Donabate.
Line crosses an estu-
ary on embankment,
and a viaduct 335
feet in length.
Rush and Lusk.
P. 39.
Kenmure Park con-
tains some interest-
ing relics from Pom-
peii.
11.^
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
Marino House.
St. Doolaoh's gS"
Church, 1 m. dis-
t.ant, is of great an-
tiquity.
Malahide Castle
AND Demesne, the
seat of Lord Talbot
de Malahide.
Swords, 3 m. tf^
P. 39. Has a round
tower 73 feet high.
CoRDUFF Demesne.
Lusk, 1 m. dist. Its'
260
BELFAST FROM DUBLllS— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
DUBLIN.
STATIONS, ETC.
I £-5
'&; =
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
Hacketstown De-
mesne, Johnston,
Esq.
On one of the Skerries
are some ruins re-
ferred to the time
of St. Patrick, to
whom they are said
to liave afforded
shelter when pur-
sued by the Druids.
90^
Bettystown, a small
watering-place.
85i
Line passes through
deep cutting of Bal-
dungan Hill.
Br. cr. the road to
Skerries.
Skerries.
Opposite three islets
of this name.
Balbi-lggan.
Asmalltown, famous
for stocking manu-
facture. The pro-
perty belongs to the
Hamilton family.
Viaduct crosses the
liarbour. Consists of
1 1 arches 30 feet span
and 3u in height ; the
piers of hewn stone.
Br. cr. river Delvin
and enter the county
of Meath.
Gormanstown.
Cross river Xanny by
viaduct 304 feet in
length. Trout-fish-
ing in the Nanny.
Laytown.
A small sea-bathing
place.
m
21J
Baldungan Church
AND Castle in ruins,
an ancient precep-
tory of Knights
Templar. It was
taken by Cromwell,
and burned.
Milverton, seat of
Woods, Esq.
Ar.DQiLLAN Castle
(Colonel Taylor).
Hampton Hall
Belmore Castle, in
ruins.
24 GORMANSTOWN CaS-
tle, seat of Viscount
Gormanstown.
2611 Ballyoarth Castle.
JULIANSTOWN, 2 g^
m. distant. The
scene of aTi encounter
between the Uoyal
and Parliamentary
forces in 1641, when
tlie former were
routed.
261
BELFAST FROM DVBhm—Contimied.
ff^
s.E
ONKIOHTFROM C^ STATIONS, ETC.
g3
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN. r? o
^fi
DUBLIN.
CoLPE, a village. St. !
Patrick is said to
have landed here,
and proceeded to
Tara.
MoRNiNOTON, a vil-
82i
30
Branch to Xavan, '
lage on the Boyne,
lOJ ni., and Kells,
from which Welling-
26 m. distant.
ton's father took his
SOJ
Drogheda.
32
title.
Viaduct, 95 feet in
At Xavan, ruins of
About 2 m. distant,
height, here crosses
Athlumney Castle,
Stonehouse.
the Boyne, consists
round tower of
RoKEBv Hall, seat
of Sir J. S. Robinson.
7
of 15 arches. Tlie
centre arch is 250
feet, and those on
Donaghmore, and
ancient church and
bridge of Clady.
Baemeath, seat of
either side 125. P.
At Kells, monastery
Lord Bellew.
39.
founded by St. Co-
lumbldlle, and round
tower.
74|
Line enters C. Louth.
37J
Monasterboice round
tower and abbey
ruins. P. 41.
701
Dunleer.
41i
Branch to Ardee.
69i
Dromin Junction.
43
Castlebellingham
64i
Castlebellingliam.
47|
Demesne, seat of Sir
Alan E. Bellingham,
Bart. Contains some
magnificent yew-
The village, about
two miles distant, ia
famous for its ale.
trees.
64i
Br. cr. river Glyde.
48
60i
Br. cr. river Fane.
52
Dundalk. Bay.
5Si
Dundalk.
543
Branch to Ennis-
killen, 62 m. distant.
5GJ
Br.cr. ri verKilcurry.
55^
The line passes over
Armagh hills here.
54i
Adavoyle.
5S
41
Bessbrook and
Newry.
(Main Line Station.)
7li
262
BELFAST FROai DVBLm— Continued.
ON RIGHT FROM
g^ STATIONS, ETC. p3
ON LEFT FROM
DUBLIN.
fe|
^Q
DUBLIN.
Kewrv, 3J ; 'Warren-
m
Goragh Wood.
74*
Extensive limestone
point, 10.
The railway to Xewry
branches oil here.
quarries.
34J
Poyntzpass.
Assembly of the
Eusflish army there
in 1688.
77*
Scarva Junction.
Branch to Ban bridge,
7 miles, a town, with
linen manufactories, j
g^ Gilford, 2 m.
distant. The rising
29i
Gilford and Tan- 82|
deragee.
Tanderagee, 1 SS"
ni. distant. 1
ground in the neigh-
bourhood is well
Tanderagee Castle, '
planted. The linen
1
the seat of the Duke
trade is carried on
of Manchester.
here. The chaly-
beate spa of Gilford
was formerly much
frequented.
Portado\7n
"^Si Bromore, 14^
251 Junction.
87
Branch to Ar- ^f
m. distant. Former
residence of the
bishops of Droinore
Situated on the river
Banii. The canal
} frrjinXewry joins the
M agh, 10* m. to MoN-
aghan, 27 m., and
Clones.
There are no remains
of the ancient cathe-
1 Baun within amile of
, the town.
Branch to Dun- g^
GANNON', 15 in., in
dral ; the present
Tyrone, and formerly
idmrch was built by
I
tlie chief seat of the
Jeremy Taylor when
1
0'Xeill.s, kings of m- j
' bishop of Down.
ster. It gives title
of Viscount to the |
ftvmily of Trevor. j
? J. Lurqan, J m.
lOj
Lurgan. 93
Charle-stown, iW ,
distant. About 2
81 m. distant.
miles from Lough
Nanjh.
Hillsborough, 4 m.
Br. cr. Laggan Canal j
13J
Moira.
98*
Louoh Neaoh.
n
Lisbum.
Manufacturing town.
Gives title to family
of Yanshaii.
105
Glenavy, 9 m. it3r
distant. A small
town ou the eastern
4
Dunmurry.
1081
side of Lough Neagh.
21
Balmoral.
110
ViCTOEiA Street.
0
Belfast.
Great Victoria
Sl'REET.
1121
Glenoall Street.
Tei-minns. j
BELFAST.
Latitude, 54° 3ij' N. ; Longitude, 5* 56' W.
Area — Land, 14,716 acres ; water, 1788 acres ; total, 16,504 acres.
Returns four members to Parliament.
Railway Stations. — B. and Northern Counties, York Road, now owned by
the Midland Railway Co. of England (north) ; B. and County Down, near
Queen's Bridge (east) ; Great Noi tlurn. Groat Victoria Street (south).
Hotels. — Grand Central, Royal Avenue; The Avenue, Royal Avenue;
Imperial and Windsor, Donegall Place ; Eglinton and Winton, High
Street ; Royal, Wellington Place ; RoHnson's Temperance, Donegall Street ;
Commercial, Waring Street ; Metropole, York Street ; Union, Donegall
Square; N.C. Railway Station Hotel, York Road.
Restaurants. — Loirdiard Cafe, Castle Place ; Thompson's, Donegall Place ;
Princess Cafe, Donegall Square ; Queen's, Donegall Place ; Abercorn,
Castle Lane ; Albert, High Street ; Boyd's, High Street ; Linden's, Com
Market; Ye Old Castle, Castle Place.
Cars.— Any carriage drawn by one horse — 1 or 2 passengers, not exceeding
2 miles. Is., every additional mile or part thereof 6d. ; 3 or 4 passengers,
not exceeding 2 miles. Is. 6d., every additional mUe or part thereof yd.
Trams running constantly from Castle Place.
Population (1901), 349,180.
Steamers.
{.Season).
From Belfast to —
Ardrossan (Royal Mail) Daily (except Sunday).
Ayr ,,
Barrow (Royal Mail) „
Bristol (Belfast and Bristol Co.) . . . Tuesday and Friday.
Cardiff and Swansea (Belfast and Bristol Co.) Once a week (Saturday).
Cork and Waterford (Clyde Co.) ... „ (Tuesday).
Douglas (I.sle of Man Co.) .... ,, (Monday).
Dublin (City of Dublin Co.) .... Mon., Wed., and Friday
Fleetwood (Royal Mail, London and York
Railway, and London and North-Western
Railway) Daily (except Sunday).
Glasgow (Royal Mail) ,,
Hey sham ,,
Liverpool (Belfast Co.) ,,
Loudon (Clyde Co.) Twicea week (Wed. &Sat.)
Londonderry Once a week.
Newhaven ,,
Southampton and Newhaven . ...
Newport (Mon.) (Belfast and Bristol Co.) . ,, (Saturday).
Plymouth (Clyde Co.) ,, (Saturday).
Waterford ,, (Tuesday).
Whitehaven Mon., Wed., and Friday
263
264 BELFAST
Though not historically or socially the capital, Belfast is, from
a commercial and industrial standpoint, the metropolis of Ireland.
During the niuctfentli century the city advanced by leaps and
bounds. The population of 1841 was at 70,400, forty years later
it had risen to 208,122, and now there are about 360,000 inhabit-
ants. In the iijcrease in property values the progress is even
more remarkable. The rateable property in 1841 was £135,000.
It is now £1,236,853.
Belfast is the headquarters of the linen industry of Ireland
(there are 835,000 spindles and 31,500 looms employed), while
the city boasts of shipbuilding yards, one of which, that of Messrs.
Harland and Wolff, stands at the head of the shipbuilding trade
of the world, while another, that of Messrs. Workman, Clark and
Co., ranks almost as high. These two firms employ about 20,000
hands. The chief exports from Belfast are linen, whisky, tobacco,
ropes, mineral waters, etc. etc. The majority of its streets are
well made, wide, and well lighted. New buildings, palatial in
extent, are being erected. The new Town Hall in the centre of
the city, on the site of the old Linen Hall, is nearly completed,
and is already a magnificent centre piece. Statues of Queen
Victoria, Lord Dufferiu, and Sir Edward Harland have lately
been erected. One of the most modern and best equipped general
hospitals in the kingdom, " The Royal Victoria," was opened by
the King, 27th July 1903, cost £120,000. The new Technical
Institution cost £100,000, in progress.
Belfast is situated pleasantly on the low banks of the River
Lagan, and just ofl' the north-east extremity of the geologic region
of the "Great Central Snowfield," which Dr. Hull believes to have
extended for 140 miles westward across the country. A great part
of the town is said to be not more than si.x; feet above high-watei
mark, being built on ground reclaimed from the river or the sea.
The harbour, originally a creek of the Lagan, has been greatly
exteniled and improved, and is now one of the finest. The pictur-
esque bay is well sheltered by hills from north and west winds.
It affords a safe anchorage, altliough not altogether free from
sandbanks. The quays extend for about a mile below Queen's
Bridge on both sides of the river.
There are three tidal docks — the Prince's, the Clarendon, and
the Spencer — and the available quayage, including the river quays,
is upwards of 18,600 lineal feet. There are four graving docks,
and a fifth, which will be the largest in the world, is about to
BELFAST 265
be commenced. The entrance to the harbour has been greatly
improved by the extension of the Victoria Channel seawards, a
distance of nearly 4 miles.
History. — After the grant by Henry II. of the province of
Ulster to De Courcy, a fortress was built somewhere in the neigh-
bourhood of the present town. In 1316 it was wasted by Edward
Bruce. After having been held for some time by Hugh O'Neill of
Clandeboye, it fell into the hands of Sir Thomas Smyth, a favourite
of Queen Eli^^abeth. On its being forfeited to the Crown by
Smyth, it was in 1612 granted to Sir Arthur Chichester, then
Lord Deputy, whose descendants, the Donegall family, are its
present possessors. The town owes its rise to the Scottish and
English settlers introduced by Sir Arthur Chichester. When it
came into his possession it consisted of only 120 huts, and with a
castle roofed with shingle.
In 1690, after William had landed at Carrickfergus, he hastened
to Belfast.
It was then "a small English settlement of about 300 houses commanded
by a castle which has long disappeared, the seat of the noble family of
Chichester. In this mansion, which is said to have borne some resemblance
to the palace of Whitehall, and which was celebrated for its terraces and
orchards stretching down to the river-side, preparations had been made for
the King's reception. He was welcomed at the north gate by the magistrates
and burgesses in their robes of office. The multitude pressed on his carriage
with shouts of ' God save the Protestant King.' For the town was one of the
strongholds of the Reformed Faith. ... A royal salute had been fired from
the Castle of Belfast. It had been echoed and re-echoed by gnus which
Schomberg had placed at wide intervals for the purpose of conveying signals
from post to post. Wherever the peal was heard, it was known that King
William had come. Before midnight all the heights of Antrim and Down
were blazing with bonfires " (Macaulay).
Summary of Charters, etc.— On the 27th April 1613,
Belfast, then a small town, was constituted a Corporation by
charter of King James I., to consist of a Sovereign, or Chief
Magistrate, aud twelve Burgesses and Commonalty, with the
right of sending two members to Parliament. This charter was
annulled by King James II., and a new one issued in 1688, but
the original one was restored in 1690 by William III.
In conformity with the passing of the Municipal Corporations
Act of 1841, the constitution of the Corporation was changed, and
made to consist of 10 Aldermen and 30 Councillors, under the
style and title of "The Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of the
266 BELFAST
Borough of Belfast." In 1888 the rank of a City was by royal
charter of Her late Majesty Queen Victoria conferred upon Belfast,
"with all such rank, liberties, privileges, and immunities" as are
incident to a city.
In 1892 Her late Majesty Queen Victoria conferred upon the
Mayor of the City for the time being the title of Lord Mayok,
and upon the Corporation the name and description of The Lord
Mayor, Aldermen, and Citizens of the City of Belfast.
By the passing of the Belfast Corporation Act of 1896, the
Boundary of the City was extended, and the Corporation made
to consist of 15 Aldermen and 45 Councillors, and the number
of Wards was increased from 5 to 15.
By virtue of the Local Government (Ireland) Act, 1898,
Belfast became a County Borough, 1st April 1899.
Letters patent issued 26th November 1866, granting a
separate Court of Quarter Sessions, comprising a Court of Record,
for the trial of civil actions, with all the rights, powers, incidents,
and jurisdictions thereunto belonging, to be, and continue to be
holden in and for the Borough of Belfast. These were enrolled in
the Office of the Rolls of Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery
in Ireland on the 18th December 1866.
The principal Public Buildings are : —
The Albert Memorial Clock Tower, High Street ; the New
City Hall, Donegall Square ; the Old Town Hall, with Police
Courts, Cells, Headquarters, Fire Brigade, etc., Victoria Street
and Chichester Street ; the New Technical Institution, College
Square ; the Free Public Library, Royal Avenue ; the Electric
Generating Station, and Offices, East Bridge Street ; the Gas
Works, Orraeau Road; the Public Baths, Peter's Hill, Ornieau
Avenue, Templemore Avenue, and Falls Road ; the Ulster Hall,
Bedford Street ; the Carrick House (lodgings for men), Lowei
Regent Street ; the Royal Victoria Hospital (General), Grosveiiot
Roai ; the Infectious Diseases Hospital (in progress), Purdys-
burn ; the Mater Inlirmorium Hospital, Crumlin Road ; the
Samaritan Hospital for Women, Lisburn Road ; the Cliildren's
Hospital, Queen Street ; the Women's Hospital, Templemore
Avenue ; the Custom House, Albert Square ; the Court House,
Crundin Road ; the General Post Office, Royal Avenue ; the
Jail, Crumlin Uoad ; the Asylum, Grosvenor Road ; the Harbour
Offices, Corporation Square.
There are six Public Parks, all well kept, the Ferneiy in
BELFAST 267
the Botivnic Gardens Park being one of the most attractive
objects in the city.
There are very fine Markets, for all classes of produce.
Statues. — Queen Victoria; Sir Edward Harland, Bart;
the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava ; Lord Belfast ; Rev. Dr. Hauna ;
Rev. Dr. Cooke.
Educational Establishments. — Queen's College, JMalone
Road; Methodist College, Malone Road ; Royal Academical Insti-
tution, College Square ; Royal Academy, Cliftonville ; St. Malachy's
College, Duncairn Street ; M'Artlmr Hall, Ladies' School ;
Victoria College, Ladies' School ; Campbell College, Belmont.
Pkinoipal Commercial Buildings. — Scottish Provident
Insurance, Donegall Square, W. ; Ocean Accident Insurance,
Donegall Square, E. ; Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd., Donegall
Square, N. ; Bank Buildings (Robertson, Ledlie & Ferguson),
Castle PI ace; Richardson, Sous&Owden, Ltd., Donegall Square, N. ;
Gallaher & Co., Ltd., York Street; York Street Spinning and
Weaving Co., Ltd., York Street; Ropeworks Co., Ltd., Conns-
water ; Brookfield Linen Co., Donegall Street.
Banks. — Belfast, Waring Street; Ulster, Waring Street;
Northern, Victoria Street ; National, High Street ; Ireland,
Donegall Place ; and many branches of each Bank.
Principal Churches. — St. Anne's Parish Church, Donegall
Street; St. George's Church, High Street; St. Malachy's R.C.
Church ; Presbyterian Churches in Rosemary Street, Fisherwick
Place, and Fortwilliam Park, and St. Enoch's Presbyterian Church,
Carlisle Circus ; Carlisle Memorial Church (Wesleyan), Carlisle
Circus.
Theatre Royal, Arthur Square.
Castle Place, the centre of the city, makes a . ■^ry good starting
place to see the city, and all streets and buildings of any interest
can be reached by trams from this.
As you turn east.vards, in High Street, you have the best
street view in the city. Beyond is the Custom House, solid
and spacious. This faces Donegall Quay, just below Queen's
Bridge, and opposite to the B. and County Doivn Station on
Queen's Quay. Following close round the Custom House, turn
sharply left up Albert Square into Waring Street, and on your
left hand is the handsome front of the Ulster Bank.
Turn to the right along Donegall Street, which, soon after
St. Anne's Church is passed, crosses the end of K lyal Avenue
288 BELFAST
(left) and leads direct to St. Patrick's Church, with its effective
if somewhat patchy spire. Continue forward across Garrick Hill
into Clifton Street, passing the Orange Hall, till it ends in the
group of churches at Carlisle Circus. On the right notice the
dwarfed spire of St. Enoch's Presbyterian Church. This has
some well-cut windows and doorways. Opposite is the finest of
all the buildings in Belfast, — the Carlisle Memorial Church
(Wesleyan), built by Alderman Carlisle in memory of his son.
The spire in proportion and outline is perhaps the most grace-
ful in Ireland, not even excepting that of St. John's, Limerick.
The porch is good, and the whole grouping harmonious — a great
contrast to St. Enoch's. A quarter of a mile farther, along
Crumlin Road, the County Gaol stares at the Court House.
Return about 600 yards past the "circus" to Koyal Avenue.
This is a well-built street, and by the imposing fronts of its
buildings and the erection of the New Town Hall at its southern
end, the Corporation evidently intend it to be the street of the
Linen City. On the right-hand side of its northern bend is the
solid-looking Free Library. Adjoining this is the City Museum
and Art Gallery {Free except on one day a week ; then 3d.). A
little farther along the Avenue are the Ocneral Post Office and
the Central Hotel, two substantial facades on the right hand
(west) ; and after crossing the end of Castle Place (left) to
Donegall Place, turn right from this along Wellington Place as
far as the statue of the Rev. H. Cooke, in front of the Academical
Institution. Bear to the right to the north side of tliis — College
Square.
Follow the tram-line for \ mile to the Model School in Falls
Road. Just behind this is one of the best churches in Belfast
— St. Peter's (R _.) Church — with two spires. The west front
and the interior are well worth notice.
Returning to the Cooke statue, and again (left) to Donrgall
Square, turn right, towards Bedford Street, the headquarters of
the linen industry.
The manufacture of linen in Ireland can be traced as far back as a.d.
1216. Walter de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, had in a.d. 1245 several webs of
linen woven for hi.s household at Newtonards, then called Ballylisnevan.
In the reign of Honry VIII. \\w spinning of linen and woollen yarns is
mentioned as a leading branch of trade ; but the manufacture llrst attained
importance under the Earl of Stafford, who invested £30,000 of his own
fortune in the industry. In 1665 the Duke of Ormond, his successor, ob-
tained an Act for the encouragement of the manufacture. In Die succeeding
BELFAST 269
reigns various Acts of Parliament were passed and grants conferred for the
further development of the linen manufacture. It would seem strange that
one of the most illiberal pieces of policy ever practised by England to Ireland
was that which gave the first decided impulse to the linen trade. " In 1098
both Houses of Parliament addressed His Majesty (William III.), represent-
ing that the progress of the woollen manufacture of Ireland was such as to
prejudice that of this country, and that it would be for the public advantage
were the former discouraged and the linen manufacture established in its
stead. His Slajesty replied, ' I shall do all that in me lies to discouragt the
woollen manufacture in Ireland, and encourage the linen manufacture, and
to promote the trade of England'" (M'Culloch's Dictionary of CuTnmeroe).
But it was to tlie French refugees, the Huguenots, who settled in and about
Lisljurn at the close of the 17th century, that the Irish nation is most in-
debted perhaps for the sudden impetus that was given to the trade. They
succeeded in greatly improving not only the processes of spinning and
weaving, but also bleaching. Up to the year 1805 the linen yam seems to
have been universally spun by hand. In that year an attempt was made to
introduce spinning by machinery. It was, however, for a time only partially
successful, for we find that in the report presented to George IV. on the
occasion of his visit to Ireland in 1821 "all the yarn in use was made by
hand." From the year 1828, when the Board of Trustees was dissolved that
had been appointed in the ninth year of Queen Anne for the encouragement
of the linen trade in Ireland, we may date the prosperity of this manufacture.
Freed from many reprrssive regulations that had been imposed by that
Board, the trade now fell into the hands of private enterprising firms. The
year 1830 saw the introduction of machinery for the spinning of linen yarn
by the two Mulhollands. Great increase of trade followed, and by 1871 the
number of spindles at worli had been trebled. Belfast is now one of the
principal seats of the linen trade in the United Kingdom. Flax for the
manufacture is largely grown throughout the Province of Ulster.
On the left side of Bedford Street is the dull-looking Ulster
Hall,^ where is a fine organ, and accommodation for concert
audiences of vast size.
A half-mile walk along Dublin Road brings one to the large
and important Queen's College. It is not, perhaps, as grand an
architectural success as the Queen's College of Cork, described by
Lord Macaulay as "worthy to stand in the High Street of
Oxford," but it is not without good features.^ Almost opposite
is the Methodist College, a rival establishment as regards size
and appearance.
Two steeples visible hereabout are the well-proportioned spire
of Fitzroy Presbyterian Church, which has a good west front ;
1 Theatre Royal is in Castle Lane ; the Grand Opera House by Great
Northern Station ; the Music Halls are near the Theatre Royal.
2 A more successful tower than the central one of this college, and in
fact the most graceful in the city, is that of the Academy.
270 BELFAST
and the extraordinary turret of the curious Elm-wood Church
(Presbyterian). Just beyond are the Botanic Gardens. They
are tastefully laid out and contain Conservatory, Fernery and
Exhibition Hull. They were openid by the Corporation in 1895.
The Belfast Yacht Club and the Belfast Naturalists' Club add
yearly to tlieir high reputation.
Lady Shaftesbury laid the foundation-stone of a new cathedral
here in 1S98.
Cave Hill, rising 1188 feet above the sea-level, is situated
about 3^ miles north. It \vill be found well woith visiting.
Leave Carlisle Circus by Duncairn Street. The hill derives its
name from three caves situated in it. It is specially interest-
ing on account of the character of its geological structure, the
peculiarity being that it is composed of limestone and basalt, the
latter superimposed on the former. From the summit the view
is remarkably extensive and exceedingly fine. It includes, besides
the city itself and the whole of Belfast Lough, an extensive
inland prospect, embracing the south mountains of County Down,
while in clear weather the coast of Scotland can be discerned. On
the slope of the hill is Belfast Castle, a mansion of the Jlarquises
of Donegall. It is a commodious and handsome structure, and
was erected by the third Marquis.
Giant's Ring is situated about 4 miles south from Belfast, in
the neighbourhood of Ballylesson. The scenery is very charming,
and the Giant's Ring is one of the most interesting works of
antiquity to be found in Ireland. It consists of an enormous
circle, more than one-third of a mile in circumference. This vast
ring is enclosed by an immense mound of earth, extending to
about 80 feet in breadth. Near the centre of the circle stands a
large cromlech or stone altar, the top slab measuring about 3
yards in length.
Distances.— (A'aiO Dublin, 112J ; Portadown, 25J ; Bniiiskillen, 87;
Donegal, 118 ; Londonderry, 101 ; Tortrush, 67i ; Ballycastle, 69J ; Lame,
28i ; (,Road) Dublin, 101 ; Newrj', 37 ; Larne, 21 to 25.
EXCURSIONS FROM BELFAST.
Either of the following routes froiu Belfast may be chosen by
tourists who have only a few days to spare. Those who also
wish to visit the Donegal Highlands or Connemara after the
'^a/i^ IS a2 oiQ" castle, where William III, rested on his way to
the Boyne. The Earl of Hillsborough is hereditary constable of
w
EXCURSIONS FROM BELFAST 271
Giant's Causeway may proceed to Londonderry, whence, (1) they
may approach Connemara by Donegal, including, if wished,
the Donegal scenery on the way ; or (2) proceed direct to Ennis-
killen. The arrangements of the railway companies, as advertised
every season, will greatly assist in the choice of routes. The
Donegal coast tour should if possible be started at Donegal
(see p. 338).
1. Belfast to Newry, Rostrevor and Dundalk (belotv).
By Great Northern Railway, Great Victoria Street Station.
2. Belfast to Donaghadee, Newcastle, and the
MouRNE Mountains (page 280).
By Belfast and County Down Plailways, from Queen's Quay Station.
L BELFAST TO DUNDALK AND GREENORE.
Lisbum (pop. 8500 ; Hotels), 8 miles from Belfast, was
formerly called Lisnegarvey. It was burned down early in the
last century, and rebuilt. The Castle Gardens are an attractive
feature, and the Episcopal Cathedral has a high and graceful spire.
This church w^as, by letters patent of King Charles II., con-
stituted the Cathedral of Down and Connor. In the church is a
monument to Jeremy Taylor, who held the see of Down, of
Connor, and also of Dromore, from 1660 to 1667. A native of
Cambridge, where his father had been a barber, he was sent to
college as a sizar, and became Fellow of All Souls College,
Oxford. He came to Ireland with Lord Conway, and after the
Restoration was made bishop, and also vice-chancellor of the
University of Dublin. Note the monument to Lieutenant Dobbs,
who was killed off the Irish coast in an engagement with the
pirate Paul Jones.
[Twelve miles south of Belfast and 4^ from Lisburn is Hills-
borough (pop. 698 ; Hotel), on the Banbridge and Lisburn Rail-
way ; a small town, adjoining the demesne of the Marquis of
Downshire. The church has a fine tower and spire, erected in
1774 by the first Marquis, then Earl of Hillsborough. In the
park is an old castle, where William III. rested on his way to
the Boyne. The Earl of Hillsborough is hereditary constable of
272 BELFAST TO DUNDALK AND GREENORE
the castle, and there are twenty yeomen and a sergeant-major,
who still wear the martial uniform of the period. On a hill
above the town is a monument to the first Marquis, and in the
town a bronze statue of the fourth Marquis.]
The main route continues direct from Lisburn to
Lurgan (pop. 11,219 ; Brownlow Arms Hotel), 20 miles from
Belfiist, a neat and clean town in the north-east corner of County
Armagh. Lord Lurgans beautiful demesne of Brownlow House,
adjoining the town, is open to visitors. The linen trade is carried
on briskly. A little way short of the town the railway crosses a
small portion of the County Down at Moira. At this point it
also skirts the corner of Lough Neagh (page 297).
Portadown (pop. 8430 ; Hotels : Imperial ; Queen's), 25 miles
from Belfast, is an important commercial centre and station on
the river Bann. A public park is held on lease from the Duke
of JNIanchester. The town possesses some large weaving factories,
and a busy market for agricultural produce.
It is an important railway junction, lines proceeding to Dublin
by Drogheda, to Londonderry by Omagh, to Enniskillen by
Armagh and Clones, and to Dundalk, Newry, and Warrenpoint.
Our route, by the main line of the G.N.R., here goes southwards ;
but if time allows an interesting visit may be made, at the extra
cost of only a short railway journey, to
Armagh {Hotels : Beresford Arms ; Charlemont Arms), a place
of over 8000 inhabitants, 36 miles from Belfast ; the county town,
and formerly a celebrated city. Its name, Ard Macha, "the
Hill of Macha," is derived from "Queen Macha of the golden
hair," who " founded the palace of Emania, 300 years B.C., and
was the only queen who ever wielded the sceptre of Ireland."
She was killed in battle, and buried here, " Navan Fort,"
about 2 miles west of the city, the site of the ancient palace,
represents a regal abode of extreme antiquity.
One of Ireland's latest historians says that "authentic history
begins with St. Patrick," and as Armagh early became that saint's
headquarters we add a brief note on his life.
St. Patrick.— It was as a slave that the young Scot from
Dumbarton, named Succat or the warlike, first sailed to the
coast of Antrim, little thinking that he would one day be
revered there as St. Patrick tlie patron saint of lerne. Rough
ARMAGH CATHEDRAL.
NAVE AND AISLES.
Sir T. Molyiitux.
Major Craig.
Captain Siiapsoii.
Dean Drelincoiirt.
A. Irwin (Freccutdrl
Dr. C. K. Irwin (Pre-
centor!
Primate M. 0. Be rcsford
Carpendale.
Rev. J. Junes.
Primate Robinson.
Mrs. IJeresfurti.
Primate Loid Jolui H
Beresford.
Evans.
r.ieut. Ki<U1.
Primate Stuart in North
NORTH TRANSEPT.
^ 1. 2. :!.
F^jirlof Ch;uiem..ii
4.
Ai-clKl. Stiikcs.
.5.
M'tieougli.
ti.
Mrs. DLsiiey.
■am T.
.Tiiliii Miutin.
^« 8.
Hr.ass Menioi-ial tu
I'liniate I>.i)il
[
'.Tolui O. ]ier^-s-
1
fc.nl
ARMAGH 273
training awaited him in the country, and after years of shepherd
life about Sliemish mountain, ho moved to the wilder west.
Later on we find him in France, a student at the school of St.
Martin of Tours. When the records of his life reach the year of
his second landing legend begins to look more like history. It
was at Strangford Lough that he then put ashore to follow up
the missionary work of the earlier Christian teacher Palladius.
We find him travelling with the set purpose of bringing all
Ulstermen "by the net of the Gospel to the harbour of life."
In 432, the only well-established date in his history, he met the
king and druids at the royal hill of Tara in formal conference.
Then comes the building of the great church on Armagh Hill,
(his sister was buried in its predecessor). We read of him ex-
pelling serpents from Croagh Patrick, consecrating idols and
pillars to Christian uses, baptizing princesses at Roscommon,
and converting the northern pagans. He seems to have declined
the honours of bishopric until nearly fifty years of age, and to
have left the conversion of the south entii'ely to disciples. The
distribution of copies of the gospels and the Pentateuch
was a special feature of his method. St. Patrick was never
canonised at Rome. (See article by T. Olden in Bid. of Nat.
Biog.)
The visitor who bears in mind the city's long story of
destruction will not expect to find many visible records of
its antiquity. To all appearances, indeed, it looks a 19th-century
town.
History. — When St. Patrick came to Armagh he asked the
Chieftain Duire for a site on the top of the hill for a church.
This was refused, but was granted some time afterwards, and
there he built his Great Church, occupying a part of the site of
the present Cathedral. Round this grew that school of monkish
learning, so famous through Western Europe until the fierce
and persistent Danes of the 9th and 10th centuries destroyed
the constantly rebuilt monastery and the men of Armagh with
fire and sword. The church is mentioned in the annals of 830 ;
it M'as rebuilt in 1268, the present transepts being then added.
" The Sees of Armagh, Cashel, Dublin and Tuam were created
with their Suffragan Sees, under the Primacy of the Archbishop
of AiTnagh." To this day the Primacy remains with the See of
Armagh. Again, in the reigns of Elizabeth and Charles I. the
i8
274 BELFAST TO DUNDALK AND GREENORE
O'Neills did their pitiless worst at the town, and reduced it on
both occasions to a wreck. Not till the time of the Restoration
did the city find peace. Since then its Arclibishops have spared
neither money nor labour to restore the Cathedral and its sur-
roundings to something of its old importance. In its relations
to Dublin, the civil metropolis, it lias something of a parallel
in the position of Canterbury, similarly independent of its
cajutal on the Thames.
The chief building, the Protestant Cathedral, probably
contains but very small portions of the Norman building. The
west door is interesting. Note the monuments of Dean Drelin-
court and Archbishop Beresford in the Nave (north) and the
Charlemont memorial in the Chapter House.
The R. C. Cathedral and the Observatory deserve a visit .
and the Presbyterian Church is a good building.
In the writing-room of the monastery of Armagh was made
the famous Book of Armagh, now in Trinity College, Dublin.
Miss Stokes believes it to have been written in 807 A.D., and
states tliat the ornamental portions "in design and execution
equal, if they do not in some points surpass, the grace and
delicate execution of the letters in the 'Book of Kells.' " It
contains the whole of the New Testament and other religious
books. The cover or shrine of St. Patrick's Bell (1091 a.d.),
and another bell-shrine (1106 a.d.), taken from Armagh, are in
the Dublin Museum. See p. 8 of Dublin Section.
From Portadown it is 33^ miles southwards along the main
G. N. R. line to
Dtmdalk (pop. 13,000 ; Hotels: The Queen's ; The Imperial),
59 miles from Belfast and about the same from Dulilin, situated
upon a low flat expanse at the head of Dundalk Bay. The
chief j)ublic buildings are an old Parish Church and a handsome
Roman Catliolic Cathedral, built on the model of King's College
Chapel, Cambridge. Steamers sail for Liverpool (153 miles)
four days a week, and for Holyhead daily. The locomotive
works of the Great Northern Railway are now concentrated
here. Dundalk was the last town in Ireland where a monarch
was crowned and resided in royal splendour.
After the decisive victory of Bannockburn had jilaccd Scottish independ-
ence beyond the grasp of Kngland, the Irish, tiesiroiis to participate in the
NEWRY 275
advantages of freedom, requested the Scots to come over to their assistance,
at the same time offering tlie crown to Edward, brother of Robert Bruce.
He landed with six thousand men, and being joined by the Ulstnr Irish, set
about destroying the English settlers. Having stormed and taken Dundalk,
he was crowned, and resided here for two years. In 1318 Bruce was killed
on the hill of Foigbard, near Dundalk, in an engagement with the English.
The armies met near Dundalk, and ])reviously to the engagement, the
prelate of Armagh went through the ranks of the English, inflaming their
valor by his exhortations, distributing his benedictions, and pronouncing
his absolution on all who should perish. The combat was long maintained
on both sides with desperate valour ; but the Scots were at length discom-
fited with dreadful carnage, and Edward Bruce finished on the field of battle
his inglorious career" {Gordon).
Dundalk demesne, the seat of Lord Roden, is open to
visitors.
From Dundalk, Newry can be reached by rail direct in 22
miles ; or vid Carlingford in 29| miles.
Newry (pop. 12,300 ; iioo railway stations. Hotels: Victoria;
Imperial ; White Cross ; The Newry), 44 miles south of Belfast.
As it is situated in the vale of the river Newry, with hills
on either side, and within a few miles of the lovely bay of
Carlingford, the streets rising tier above tier, the pictur-
esque situation of the Old Church and the tall chimneys and
factories lend to it a very striking appearance. It is much
improved since the witty Dean Swift described the town as
consisting of
"High church, low steeple,
Dirty streets, and proud people."
Steamers ply regularly twice a week between Newry and
Liverpool, a distance of 153 miles. The rise of the town may be
traced to the 16th century, when Sir Nicholas Bagnal, Marshal
of Ireland, rebuilt it, erecting at the same time a church and
castle. There is no doubt, however, of the existence of the town
at a much earlier date. A granite obelisk stands at the east end
of the town, erected to the late Trevor Corry by his fellow-
townsmen. The H. C. Cathedral well deserves a visit, and has a
good tower.
Two lines of railway run from Newry along the Newry river
estuary ; one on each side. The northern line stops at Warren-
point (6^ miles) ; the southern, the Newry and Gnenoro Rail-
way, continues through Carlingford to Groenore pier (14| miles),
and connects with the branch line to Dundalk.
276 BELFAST TO DUNDALK AND GREENORE
(1) From Newry to Rostrevor (9 miles) : —
Nakuow Water Castle stands on the road between Warren-
point and Newry, 1 mile from the former. The broad surface of
the river is here contracted by a low i)rotruding rock, once an
island, on whose surface stands the old castle.
It was looked upon as the key to Newry, and from its posi-
tion was well placed either for the purpose of defence or ex-
action of toll. It was subsequently let to a salt-manufacturer,
and at a still later period used as a dog-kennel.
Waxrenpoint (pop. 1970; Hotels: Great Northern; The
Crown; The Imperial, Coaches to Newcastle, tram-car to
Rostrevor), Q\ miles from Ne^viy by rail, is delightfully
situated at the very head of Carlingford Bay. It is a popular
resort for holiday-makers, and the bathing is on a gently-
shelving shore covered with small round pebbles, free from
mud or sea-weed, and surrounded by a beautiful neighbour-
hood. In one part the houses form a little square, and in
another stretch along the edge of the shore, where there is a
convenient quay, from which steam-packets sail to Liverpool
twice a week. There was formerly a very extensive rabbit-
warren here, from which circumstance the place derives its
name.
L ferry plies to the opposite shore of the lough.
DiSTAKCEs. — Rostrevor (tram), 2| miles ; Greencastle, 9 ; Kilkeel, 12 ; New-
castle, 25.
Just before entering Rostrevor, near the beach, rises an obelisk
with an appropriate inscription to the memory of General Ross,
a native of Rostrevor, who fell at the battle of Baltimore in 1814.
Rostrevor (^o<c/s; Glenmore; Gt. Northern; The Rostrevor),
the " Montpelier of Ireland," is about 2| miles from Warrenpoint
by tram-car. This pleasant holiday resort consists of Rostrevor
village {Rostrevor Hotel), a prettily situated and ancient place of
about 600 inhabitants, with small shops and stone churches
and, i mile away, on the shore of the bay, Rostrevor quay. At
the latter the visitor will find the Mourne and Woodside Hotels,
quietly and charmingly situated, and some delightful views of
Carlingford Lough. Rostrevor, on passing into possession of
the Trevors, took its present name from that of its new proprie-
tors conjoined with the Iri.sh word Ross, which signifies a head-
ROSTREVOR 277
land ; or, according to some authorities, from an heiress whose
name was Rose marrying into the famil}' of Trevors, Viscounts
of Dungannon. The town is situated on the height overlooking
the bay, with a background of mountains, in a most beautiful
neighbourhood, well wooded and plentifully sprinkled with viUas.
A fine modern specimen of the Irish sculptured cross will be ob-
served in the burying-ground of the Old Church near the
centre of the town.
The chief attraction at Rostrevor is the bay, which all the way
from Warrenpoint has the appearance of a sjjacious lake, in the
midst of woods and mountains. "Clough More," or the great
stone, an immense granite boulder, stands about half-way up the
Slieve Ban, the total height of which is 1595 feet. "There
can be no doubt that it has come from the district near Newry
and has been carried across the valley of Rostrevor (by ice-flow)
and up the hill-side " {Hull). From the summit of the hill a
fine view is obtained extending to the Hill of Howth and the Isle
of Man. There are many beautiful walks and drives in the neigh-
bourhood. In winter and spring the air is mild and balmy, as
the village is sheltered on north and east.
Golf Course. — At Bally edmund, about 3 miles (east) from
Rostrevor, there are excellent, but private, golf links with a
twelve-hole course. There are some fine sporting shots, and the
views of mountain, lough, and wood are very grand.
About 1^ mile northward from Rostrevor along the road to
Rathfriland is the quaint old churchyard of Kilbroney. It
contains an ancient cross and is quite Avorth a visit. The name
means the "church of Bronagh," a holy lady of the early
church.
A pleasant road skirting the north shore of Carlingford Lough
connects Rostrevor with Kilkeel (9J miles), a village of about
1367 inhabitants, possessed of a pleasant sea-beach. Kilkeel is
also approached from Greenore by ferry to Greencastle, where
there is a massive square castle ; and thence by car (4;^ miles) to
Kilkeel.
The Down Coast Coaches run through from Warrenpoint to
Newcastle, and the reverse way, three times a day ; and in
connection with these there is a service of coaches between Kil-
keel and Greencastle. (See also pink pages.)
This is a most interesting coach drive, which follows the sea-
278 BELFAST TO DUNDALK AND GREENORE
coast almost entirely throughout the distance of 26 miles, and
ailords a fine succession of striking views of the Mourne
Mountains, at the feet of which it lies.
For the first 8 miles out of Warrenpomt the road skirts the
northern shore of Carlingford Lough, justly famed for its many
beauties, perhaps at their best at sunrise or sunset. In less than
3 miles Eostrevor is passed (p. 276), a charming little watering-
place sheltered by mountains and shady woods. Above is Slieve
Ban (1595 feet) aud the Cloughmore Stone.
A long mile beyond Killowen (5 miles) is old Killowen Cha,pel,
celebrated as the scene of the Yelverton marriage, "one of the
most extraordinary and romantic cases that ever occupied the
attention of a court of justice." Killowen, however, is now
better known as the birthplace of Lord Russell, the Lord Chief
Justice, who was created the first Baron of Killowen in 1894.
From Lisnacree (8 miles) a road of 4^ miles leads south to
Greencastle. From the same village it is 4 miles, by an inland
road, to Kilkeel (12 miles ; Hotel), the half-way stopping- place,
and a convenient centre for the southern mountains of the
Mournes. In connection with the branch coach service to
Greencastle there is a service of steamers across the lougli to
Greenore.
The village oi Annalong is passed 5^ miles short of Bloody
Bridge, an excellent starting -place for the ascent of Slieve
Douard. In 3 miles farther you reach Newcastle (p. 286).
(2) From Newry to Greenore (14| miles) : the Newry and
Greenore Railway runs close to the western shore of Carlingford
Lough. Beyond Omeath is
Carlingford (pop. 554 ; nearest Hotel, The North-Western,
Greenore), on the south side of Carlingford Lough, about 12 miles
south of Newry. It is well worth a visit on account of its many
ruins and beautiful views. It is famous for the oyster and
deep-sea fishing in the vicinity.
In the town there are also the ruins of a great Dominican
monastery, founded by Richard de Burgo in 1305. \ mile
outside the town, on the Greenore Road, are the foundations
of the "Hospital of St. John."
There are also the remains of two other ancient buildings,
on the walls of which are some curious devices carved in the
btoue. One of these is called the Tholsel.
GREENORE 279
Above the old towu — which, surely, some day will boast a
decent hostelry ! — is Carlingford or Foy Mountain, 1935 feet ; au
easy and most rej^ayiug climb.
To geologists this mountain is, as are all the mountains round Carlingford
Lough, of great interest. " The great number of dykes of basalt in tliis dis-
trict has led Dr. Haughton to conclude it was a focus of volcanic action."
Greenore, at the mouth of Carlingford Lough, is the port of
debarkation of the London and North- Western Railway Steamers
from Holyhead. It is within five minutes' ride by rail from
Carlingford, and thirty minutes from Dundalk, and there is a
good hotel here under the management of the Railway Company.
Golf links have been lately opened here. An express train leaves
Greenore every day (Mondays excepted) at 6.20 A.M., arriving
at Belfast at 7.50 A.M., in connection with the Holyhead
steamers.
280
II. BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE.
RAILWAY ITINERARY.
To Bangor, Donag)iadee, DoM-npatrick, and Newcastle, hy Belfast and Cownty
Down Railway.
ON RIGHT FROM
BELFAST.
STATIOK.S, ETC.
i
ON LEFT FROM
BELFAST.
Belfast.
Queen's Bridge Ter-
minus.
Branch toHoLYWooD,
4^^ miles, and Banoor,
12 from Belfast-
Dundonald
5
"derives its name
from a large earthen
fort which stands be-
side the church."—
Reeves.
Comber.
S
Branch to Newtown-
ARDS, 13J ra., and
DONAGHADEE, 22 ni.
SaINTFIELD nODSE.
Saintfield.
13J
3 m. Ballvnahinch.
Montalto demesne.
Ballynahinch
Junction.
m
2 m. south. The Spa.
P. 281.
21i
CroBsgar.
21J
4 ni. ElLLTLEAQH,
ElLLYLEAQH CaSTLE.
Downpatrlok.
2C5
Branch to Abdolass,
35 m.
Tulljrmurry
30
(for Clough and Sea-
fordo).
Dundrum.
34i
Newcastle.
3S
i
Hotph: (E. & Co.
Down) Rail way Co. 's
Hotel ; Annesley
Arms ; Bellevue.
ARDGLASS HALLYNAHINCH — HOLY WOOD 281
II. BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE.
Through County Down
[Places arranged alphcibetically. ]
Ardglass (Hotel : The Castle), 7 mues south-east from Downpatrick, is a
bright little "seaside" to which many holiday-makers resort, on a deeply
indented harbour which lies protected between Phennick Point and Ringfad
Point. It became a place of great importance soon after the Norman
invasion, had a considerable trade, and was one of the three principal towns
in the county, inferior only to N^ewry and Downpatrick ; but it sank into
decay. It is remarkable, however, for the ruins of five Anglo-Norman castles,
which are an evidence of its former military importance. There is a large
herring fishery. There is a flourishing golf club with a course of over a
mile along the shore, on good high ground, which is well patronised by
visitors during the summer months.
Ball3mahinch (pop. 1542; Hotel: Fitzpatrick's), 18 ra. from
Belfast ; 3^ miles from Ballynahinch Junction ; by road 11 miles
from Downpatrick, was the scene of a serious fight during the
disturbance of 1798. Adjoining the town is the fine demesne of
Montalto, formerly possessed by the Earls of Moira.
Two miles to the south is the Spa, now little used. The
scenery is pretty, and a few miles from the Spa is Slieve Croob
Mountain (1755 feet), from which a magnificent view may be
obtained.
Holywood (pop. 3390 ; Hotel : The Belfast), 4^ miles from
Belfast, a picturesque and rising town, almost midway between
Belfast and Bangor, on the eastern shore of Belfast Lough, is a
favourite suburban residence of the Belfast merchants.
Bangor (pop. 3834 ; Hotels : Grand ; Burlington ; Ava ; Im-
perial; Abercorn ; International; Victoria; Pickie Temp.), 12
miles from Belfast, is one of the chief watering-places for the
inhabitants of Belfast and neighbourhood. During the summer
months steamers ply between the two places, and trains run
almost every hour. There is good hotel accommodation, hot
and cold baths, and a fine beach for bathing. Here the regattas
of the Royal Ulster Yacht Club are held. From Bangor on a clear
day can be seen Ailsa Craig and various parts of the Scotch coast.
The name Hangar (or Banagher) "signifies horns, or pointed
hills, or rocks " (Joyce).
282 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
An abbey was founded at Baugor as early as 556 by St. Congall or Congal,
a contemporary of St. Coluiubkill. Tlie Danes are believed to have plundered
it iu 81S, when it contained 3000 inmates, and miiniered the abbot and 900
monks. Scarcely any remains now e.x^ist, but the parish church occu])ies the
site. The ruins of the ancient Bangor Castle, still in good preservation, over-
look the quay, and close to the town is the modern Bangor Castle, a fine
Elizabethan mansion.
Two miles from Bangor is Clandeboye, the seat of the Marquis
of Duft'erin and Ava. Its " Mu.seum " contains a fine collection
of antiquities and curios from various countries, acquired by the
present Marquis. On a liill above the mansion is Helen's Tower,
erected by the Marquis to the memory of his mother, who was a
daughter of Thomas Sheridan. There is an extensive and
beautiful view from the tower ; and upon the interesting associa-
tions connected with this tower Tennyson, Browning, and
Kipling have written.
Castlewellan (pop. 895 ; Inns : Annesley Arms ; Commercial),
10 miles south-west of Downpatrick, 4^ miles from Newcastle,
was formerly the seat of the family of Magennis, until the
property passed to the Earls of Annesley.
The park at Castlewellan is situated on the wooded side of
the SUeve-na-Slat, and commands an extensive view of the whole
range of the Mourne Mountains. It is opeu to the public on
Mondays, but the castle is not shown.
Four miles distant is Tolhjmore (Earl of Roden), the beautiful
gi-ouuds of which are intersected by the Shimna, which forms a
series of fine cascades (see p. 288).
About 6 miles from Castlewellan there is a very large crmrdech on the
western side of Crotlieve Mountain, one of the Slieve Croob range. It is an
oblong stone, 12 feet long, more than 5 feet broad, and nearly 2 feet thick,
supported in a sloping position on three uprights, of which the two at the
eastern and highest end are high enough for a tall man to stand between
them under the altar stone ; and this is so nicely poised that if one of the
uprights is shaken it will rock sliglitly. The best route is by Clarkhill Wood
and Legananny Schoolhouse.
About half-way between Castlewellan and Newcastle (on the road which
goes out between Castlewellan Church and AVoodlawn) is the small village
of Maohera, and near it, in the churchyard of the parish, close to the
presentchurch, are the ruins of a very ancient church; and at a short distance
is the stump of around tower, being all that remains of the original structure,
which was destroyed by a storm about 150 years ago.
Donaghadee (pop. 2000 ; Hotels : Mount Royal ; Imperial) is
22 miles east from Belfa t, and about 21 i west of Portpatrick. It
DOWNPATRICK 283
is connected with Belfast by the branch line from Comber. It is
an agreeable little town, consisting of two principal streets and
numerous lanes ; one of the streets faces the sea. On the north-
east side of the town is a rath forming a lofty mound about 60
feet high, with the sides shaped round and the top hollowed out
from east to west by a fosse. From the top a fine view is obtained
of the Scottish coast, the houses on which can be clearly dis-
cerned with the assistance of a good glass. In addition to its
trade, Donaghadee has some importance as a bathing-place.
The mail and passenger traffic for many years carried on between
Portpatrick and Donaghadee was removed to Stranraer and
Lame, on account of the difficulties connected with the use of
Portpatrick harbour. There is a lighthouse at the end of the
pier.
Downpatrick (pop. 3132 ; Hotel : Down Hunt Arms), 26^
miles south of Belfast, is the much-reduced county town of
Down, and said to be the most ancient town in Ulster. It has
four principal streets, and consisted at one time of three divisions
— English, Irish and Scotch. The place was the residence of
the native kings of Ullagh. Its Irish name was Aras-Celtair, or
Rath-Keltair, tlie castle or fortitication of Celtair, the son of
Duach, who lived here in the 1st century. By Ptolemy it was
called Dunun. The see was founded by St. Patrick, who built
the Abbey of Saul in its vicinity, and shortly afterwards the
Abbey of Canons Regular (now the Cathedral).
The town has been the scene of frequent sieges and battles,
and in 1641 the magnificent castle was burnt by the Irish.
Those, indeed, who have read the long and interesting history
of the town will be as disappointed here as at Armagh in finding
so few relics of the past. It is said to have been the burial-
place of Patrick (see page 272). The town possesses a hand-
some Town Hall. The Cathedral stands on a hill to the
west.
It is, to a great extent, a modern structure, occupying the site of an ancient
building. The "restoration " began in the year 1790. The older church was
built on the ruins of one that had been destroyed by the Danes, by Malachy
O'Morgair, Bishop of Down, in 1140, and endowed with considerable estates.
It was burnt in 153S by Leonard, Lord Grey ; and the temijoralities of the
Church were confiscated at the dissolution of abbeys. The building con-
tinued a ruin for 250 years, and is thus described by Harris in 1744, —
"The roof was supijorted by five handsome arches, which compose a
centre aisle of 26 feet, and two lateral aisles of 13 feet wide each ; and the
whole structure is 100 feet long. The heads of the pillars and arches have
284 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
been adorned with a variety of sculpture, in stone, some parts of which yet
remain. Over the lofty east viiiidow are three handsome niches, in which
the pedestals still continue, whereon, it is supposed, the statues of Saint
Patrick, Saint Brigid, and Saint Columb formerly stood. According to an
old distich in monkish Latin,
" Three Saints in Down one grave do fill,
St. Patrick, Bridget, and St. Columbkill."
A few years ago a huge granite monolith was placed on the reputed grave
of St. Patrick. The stone is just as it left the quarry, and bears no inscrip-
tion save the saint's name in Celtic characters and an incised Celtic cross (see
also page 272). In front of the east window of the cathedral the old market
cross has been re-erected. This cross, which dates from the 10th century, is
believed to be the same as that mentioned in a charter of Sir John de Conrey
to the cathedral.
In 1790 steps were taken by the Marquis of Downshire and the Dean of
Down for the restoration of the cathedral, which was at length effected by
subscriptions. The ancient church was not pulled down, but the walls and
arches then standing were preserved, and support the newer masonry and
roof. These arches are evidently very old, and the grotesque carvings on
some of the columns cannot belong to a later date than the 12th century.
Much has been done during the last thirty-five years to improve the interior.
The Mound or Dun, from which the town had its name, stands on the
north-west, about 60 feet in height, and 2100 feet in circumference, and
is surroimded by three great ramparts. This was the citadel or fort of
Eeltair, Prince of Lecale.
On high ground at the opposite end of the town is the new
RoMAK Catholic Chukch. This was finished in 1895, and does
the people of the town great credit. Note the very fine spire
and the west window.
Remains of the Monastery of Saul may be seen about two
miles north-east of Downpatrick. They are chiefly of 12th-
centurj^ date ; and, with other places, claim to contain the
grave of St. Patrick, who probably founded one of his first
churches here.
About a mile and a half from Down, north-east, are the
celebrated Wells of Struell (from an Irish word for streams),
"which, in former times, were frequented by persons from all
quarters, but latterly have, like other places of the same nature,
ceased to be objects of such great attraction " (Dr. Reeves).
There were three or four wells, partially vaulted over, in which
the water was raised or lowered by hidden sluices ; and the ruins
of an old chapel, dedicated to St. Patrick. The Avells were
resorted to at night, on the Eve of St. John the Baptist, for the
cure of the lame and the blind, but these nightly meetings were
the occasion of so many scandals that they have now been
discontinued.
DUNDRUM— GREY ABBEY 285
Dundnun (i^op. 474 ; Hotel : Downshire Arms), 8 miles south
from Downpatrick, is situated on Dundrum Bay, and commands
an extensive view of the sea in front, backed by the Mourne
Mountains, south-west. The town is well built, and when the
tide is high in the inner bay is picturesque and pretty. By the
energy and liberality of the late and the present owners of the
soil it has become a thriving place ; the old cabins have made
way for substantial hoxises and shops. What has tended most
to its improvement has been the quay, with commodious store-
houses, begun by the fourth Marquis of Downshire.
Above the village, on a wooded hill, stands the old castle.
"At the base of the hill the sea forms a bay, where the tide, on
going out, leaves a remarkable strand, called in Irish ' the Shore
of the Champions, ' for here it was that the youth of the ancient
Ultonians used to exercise themselves in the race and wrestling."
Across this strand, at low water, is a communication for travellers
to Tyrella.
The erection of the Castle of Dundrum is attributed to John de Courcy,
about the end of the 12th century. It is probable that it may have been
built by De Courcy, for the style of building resembles that of other castles
built by him and other Norman invaders on the coast of Ireland.
Nothing authentic is known about the castle till 1515, when it was held
by Phelim Magennis, from whom it was taken by storm by Gerald, Earl of
Kildare, Lord Deputy. In the 17th century it became the property of Crom-
well, from whom it passed by sale into the hands of the BlundeUs, and after
to the Marquis of DownsMre, whose residence is atMurlough House.
Grey Abbey (pop. 633), 7^ miles from Newtownards by car, is
one of the most interesting relics in the County Down. Africa,
the daughter of Godred, King of Man, and wife of Sir John de
Courcy, founded it for Cistercians in 1193. It was a cell or off-
set of Holm Cultram in Cumberland. In the rebellion of 1641
the original abbey was destroyed by the O'Neills, but was after-
wards rebuilt by the Montgomeries. The ruins, which are clothed
with ivy, have a pleasant though mournful aspect. They are
very extensive, and are kept in proper repair. The abbey is
near the east margin of Strangford Lough, a large circum-
scribed arm of the sea, 16 miles in length by 4 to 5 in width.
The islands are very numerous, and by some said to number 365,
a frequent computation regarding the islands in Irish loughs.
Kelp was at one time furnished in large quantities by the islands
and shores of Strangford Lougli. It was to this lough, if we
286 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
may trust the latest biographers of St. Patrick, that the Patron
Saint put in when he visited Ireland for the second time. This
was probably between the years 400-428 ; and after he had been
driven away from the Vartry river in Wicklow (see p. 272).
Killyleagh (pop. 1513 ; Hotel), 5 miles north of Downiiatrick,
is a small seaport, prettily situated on the western shore of
Strangford Lough. The chief feature of interest is the castle,
part of which is of great antiquity. It was held by the O'Neills,
and was forfeited in the rebellion of Shane O'Neill.
NEWCASTLE.
Hotels.— SZici'eDo)iard(B. &C. D. Ely.); Bellevxie ; BUwkRock: Central Temp.
Cars. — Public cars run tlirongh to Warrenpoiiit several times a day. Bee
pink pages. About a couple ply daily between Kilkeel and Greencastle.
Distances.— Kilkeel, 14; Rostrevor, 23 ; Warrenpoint, 26 ; Do\vnpatrick, 15 ;
Belfast, 30J, by road.
Golf. — County Down Golf Club ; handsome and commodious clubhouse
within 200 yards of Slieve Donard hotel ; eighteen-hole course, and nine-
hole course for ladies, with separate clubhouse.
This delightful pleasure resort is 5 miles from Dundrum and
13 miles from Downpatrick, on the south-western curve of the
great or outer Bay of Dundrum, under the north-eastern de-
clivities of Slieve Donard. It was anciently called Ballagh-heg,
the Little or Short Pass, in reference probably to the glen by
which access was gained to the other side of the mountains into
Mourne and towards Annalong. It had its pi'esent name from a
castle which was taken down in 1835, and the Baths, which are
much resorted to, were erected on the site where it stood.
The village, however, was till lately scarcely known, and
consisted almost entirely of a few fishermen's cottages ; and the
slopes at the base of the mountains that overhang it were covered
with a deep natural clothing of heather and furze, which it was
not easy to penetrate. In 1821 the late Earl Annesley chose
under the brow of Thomas Mountain a site for a residence, where
he began to build Donard Lodge, enclosed a demesne with a wall,
and commenced tlie extensive plantations which form so great an
ornament to the jilace. Since then it has gradually increased in
size and importance, until, on account of the beauty of its scenery
and the attractions of its neighbourhood, it now ranks among
the most frequented watering-places in the north of Ireland.
There is both variety and plenty of good liotel accommodation,
NEWCASTLE 287
which has been much improved by the addition of the Railway
Company's large hotel.
Golf. — The County Down Golf Club has its headquarters here.
The course is one of 18 holes, with no lack of bunkers, sand-
hills, and other hazards. One sandhill, the Matterhorn, is 40
feet high. The scenery, specially on the homeward journey, is
very fine, including Slieve Donard rising almost 3000 feet above
sea-level. The links extend along the shore of Dundrum Bay,
Entering from the direction of Dundrum, the road crosses the
Shimna River by the Castle Bridge, and passes the Baths on the
left hand. Between this building and "The Rock," and in
front of the terraces and other houses facing the sea, is the
Promenade, with its gravel walks, grass plots, and rustic seats ;
having the expanse of the sea to the eastward, the woods of
Tollymore to the west, and on the south-west and close above
the village the various eminences which culminate in Slieve
Donard, the highest mountain in Ulster. On The Rock, where
Felix Magennis once intended to build a castle, stands the
church, with its tower and spire of granite, forming a pleasing
object in the view ; and beyond it, about as far as from it to the
Baths, and nearly at the extreme curve of the bay, is a commodi-
ous harbour with a double pier, erected with the aid of a small
grant from Parliament. Slieve Donard is best ascended from
Newcastle (see page 289).
The nearest object of attraction is the demesne of Donard
Lodge, which is open except on Monday and Thursday.
The walks are laid out with great taste ; flowering shrubs, rhododendron,
arbutus, and fuchsia grow luxuriantly, and blend pleasingly with firs,
larches, and other trees. The principal feature, however, is the Glen River
and its waterfalls. It rises in the deep glen between Slieve Donard and
Slieve Commedagh, and rushes down the lowest part of its course in a
succession of cataracts. None of these are very high, nor is the river wide ;
but the effect is always striking after heavy rains. One of these falls (at a
spot called the " Hermit's Glen," from a small cell artificially made under a
huge rock) does not leap over a precipice, but slides, as it were, down a steep
sloping rock, and is broken into two streams, which unite at the base. As
this rock stands obliquely to the course of the stream, the waterfall is pre-
sented in profile to one standing or sitting at a point of view below it.
Near this fall is the Dining-House, commanding an admirable view, and
whence, if the day be clear, 7nay be seen the Tower of Downpatrick, the
monument to the Marquis of Londonderry, and Lough Strangford.
A little above this is another fall, and higher up a bridge, from which two
or three paths diverge ; one, straight onward, leads to the Ivy Rock, formerly
288 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
called Craig-na-gor or the Goat's Rock, commanding a particularly fine view.
Another path to the left, steep and rugged, keeps near the bank of the river
to the Ice-house (no longer used as such), where the path terminates. The
path to the Spa Well is a plaasant one.
Bryansford {Hotel : The Roden Arms), which takes its name
probably from Bryan Magennis, is a very pretty village 2^ miles
from Newcastle, 5 from Dundrum, and 13 from Downpatrick.
At the end of the village is the entrance to
ToLLYMORE Park, the seat of the Earl of Roden, under a
fine pointed arch, from which the view of the wooded mountain-
side and the heights of Slieve Donard in the background is most
impressive, and, once seen, will hardly be forgotten. The park
is open under the following regulations : — Persons on foot and
carriages, on Tuesdays and Fridays, 10 to 6 ; other days, by
ticket from the agent.
The woods extend above 2 miles along the valley through
which flows the Shimna River, and rise to a considerable height
on the hills within the wall. The park contains nearly 2000
statute acres, and in it will be found a variety of mountain and
forest scenery.
As we enter the park, on the lawn to the left is an obelisk
erected to the memory of the Hon. Bligh Jocelyn, R.N., a rela-
tive of the present earl. The house is not remarkable, but
contains some good portraits, armour, etc. It is not shown to
strangers.
The whole course of the river, with walks on both sides, com-
mands views of great beauty ; and among the woods are some
fine oaks and remarkable trees of the silver fir, one of which is
justly entitled " the Lord of the Forest." On the south bank of
the river is the Diuing-House, in a pleasant and quiet open space ;
and a little higher up, where the stream is spanned by a light
suspension bridge, is a cave called the Plermitage. A circular
stone tablet, at the back of the Hermitage, has an inscription in
Greek : " Clanbrassil, to his very dear friend Monthermer, Anno
1770." The tablet was placed by James Hamilton, second and
last Earl of Clanbrassil, to his friend Marquis of Monthermer,
who died in 1770. The estates of Lord Clanbrassil, at his death
in 1798, devolved on his only sister, wife of the fii'st Lord Roden,
and grandmother of the present Earl.
From the Dining-Houso down the river to the Saw-Mill the
path abounds in points of picturesque beattty ; and there are
SLIEVE DONARD 289
other walks in Tollymore Tark sufficient to afford a day's ramble
to the visitor.
The Moukne Mountains.— For those who wish to explore
these very interesting mountains, Newcastle makes an excellent,
and, in fact, the best, starting-point. Rostrevor can be used as
a centre, but is decidedly inferior, being considerably farther
from the centre of the group and the most interesting heights.
Mr. H. C. Hart is writing for the stalwart only when he says
"from either point (Newcastle or Rostrevor) to the other is a
day's walk that will well repay the labour, and can be made to
include all the principal summits." The ordinary walker, with
ordinary legs, and a weakness for lingering over fine and far-
reaching summit-views, when he has toiled hard to obtain them,
will prefer to take things more quietly. After walking over
most of the chief heights the writer has come to the conclusion
that Slieve Bingian is a much-neglected mountain, and that
the visitor who does no more than Slieve Donard can have but a
very inadequate notion of the unusual character of these hills.
The popular favourite, however, and the most accessible moun-
tain is undoubtedly Slieve Donard.
The Mourues are composed of granite of a peculiar kind, one unusual
characteristic being tlie "minute irregular cawties" containing crystals.
In form the mountains, in most cases, have the cone or dome shape, generally
met witli in granite. In age they appear to be much later than the granite
masses of the Slieve Croob range, to the nortli, and "are amongst tlie most
recent igneous rocks in Ireland." During the age of ice " only the highest
elevations of the Mourne Mountains were left uncovered by the ice-sheet"
{EuU).
Slieve Donard (2796 feet). The ways of ascent are many.
(1) The best is probably made by starting from Bryansford,
passing round the Newcastle side of Tollymore Park, and passing
— or, better still, including— the height of Slieve Commedagh
on the right of the Glen River. From the head of the latter
stream a fairly direct line will take you to the summit.
(2) The more popular route, however, is that from Donard
Lodge which follows the Glen River to its head, and then bears left
as (1) above. The forbidding crags of Eagle Rock on the left of
the stream should be kept at a distance.
(3) Another ascent may be made from Bloody Bridge, a
description of which is given below (page 291).
The summit is the highest point in Ulster. The Ordnance
19
290 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
Survey maps make it 2796 feet above the level of the sea, aud
it rises abruptly from the water in a series of conical elevations.
It is unnecessary to say that the view is very extensive, extend-
ing as it does in clear weather even to the coast of Scotland and
the mountains of Cumberland to the east, and those of Dublin
and Wicklow south-west. Near the summit, only a few yards
from the Great Cairn, is a well or spring of water, cold and clear,
coming up apparently through the fissures of the stones.
"Slieve Donard itself presents a very rounded outline when
seen from the north ; but it does not follow that this is due to
ice-gi'inding, as granite from its uniform structure has a tendency
to weather into dome-shaped masses " {Hull).
The mountam was of old called Slieve Slanga, from a hero called Slainge,
who is recorded in the Annals of the Four Masters to have died anno muiidi
2533, and to have been " interred in the Cairn of Sliabh Slanga." He was
son of Partholan, King of Ireland, and brother of Riidraighe, who was drowned
in the bay The present name, however, is derived from St. Donard or Dom-
hangh-ard, a disciple of Patrick, born towards tlie close of the 5th century. He
founded the church of Maghera, in the plain below the mountain. He also
built a chapel on the top of Slieve Donard, where he is said to Iiave spent
much of his life as a hermit, and which continued for a long period to be
frequented by a great concourse of pilgrims, on the 25th of July, the
patron-day of the saint. Miss Stokes considers the remains of walls on
the summit to be ruins of this chapel (see page 349) : the unromantic insist
that it is only a hut used by the Royal Engineers when engaged on the
Ordnance Survey.
A pleasant excursion from Newcastle may be made to Bloody
Bridge, 3 miles, which is also a popular starting-point for
Slieve Donard. We take the lulkeel road, past the harbour
and the Widows' Row — built by subscription for the widows of
several fishermen who were lost in the bay by a sudden storm
in the autumn of 1843. About this place the shore, which has
a level sandy beach, rises almost perpendicularly to the height
of more than 100 feet.
Near Patrick's stream, on the left, are two remarkable fissures
in the clitfs. The first, called Maggie's Leap, is a wide perpen-
dicular chasm open to the tide below ; and it has its name from
a tradition that a woman, pursued by ruffians, baffled her pur-
suers by leaping this terrible gap. The larthcr one is Armour's
Hole, named from one James Armour, murdered here by his son
about the year 1701.
At three miles from Newcastle is Bloody Bridge. The old
SLIEVE DONARD 291
bridge below the road is a picturesque object ; it derives its
name from the massacre of a number of Protestants in 1641 by
Sir Conn Mageunis. He had them in cliarge to convey them to
Downpatrick, but saved liimself the trouble by beheading them
on the bridge and leaving their bodies there unburied.
Before we go up the glen we will visit the Ballagh Church,
which stands on the left of the high road, just above the deep
cutting. Of this building, one of the most ancient in Ulster,
only a single arch is standing, with a small fragment of wall.
It may perhaps be the church built somewhere here by Bishop
Donard (see above, p. 290). Local legend, indeed, tells how that
energetic saint connected both his church here below and that
on the top of the mountain by a mysterious passage that still
pierces the heart of the rock. It should be noted that | mile on
the Newcastle side of " Maggie's Leap," which we passed on the
road hither, is a hollow called Donard' s Cove.
Slieve Donard can be well ascended from this point by staiting
at the stream near the church, about 400 yards on the Kilkeel
side of Bloody Bridge. On reaching the ridge at the head of
the Bloody Bridge River (to which our route turns), a walk of
three-quarters of an hour will bring us to the top of Slieve
Donard. This, the south side of the Cone, though very steep,
is easily climbed, being grassy and dry. We shall find a good
deal of the hare's-foot or club moss, Lycopodium clavatum ; and
near the summit occasional specimens of the Least Willow, Salix
herhacea.
Should you prefer to avoid the top, it is easy to skirt round
to the head of the Newcastle River Glen, and descend by it to
the plantations of Donard Lodge.
One of the most repaying ascents among the Mournes is, as
has been mentioned above, that of Slieve Bingian (2449 feet).
For this Anualong and Kilkeel should be preferred as starting-
points. We have found the latter convenient and the road by
Colligan Bridge a fair one. The summit of this mountain is
remarkable, and the fantastic shapes taken by the granite are
worth seeing as well as the magnificent panorama of views. The
outline of this mountain, as seen from the southern side, is
very striking. Slieve Bernagh (2394 feet) is similar in character
at its summit, and can be attacked conveniently from the
Hare's Gap, which is about 5 miles from Bryansford, at the head
of the Trassey River.
292 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE
Cove Mountaiti is south-east from Slieve Bernagh, almost due west from
Donard. Harris says: "A deep and narrow valo divides Slieve Donard
from Slieve Snavan, or the Creeping Mountain, so called because it must
be climbed in a creeping posture ; and through this vale winds a pretty
serpentine stream, which discharges itself into the sea to the eastward of the
mountains." The vale in question is evidently that through which the
Aunalong river flows. There is no mountain now known as Slieve Snavan,
but Harris's description enables us to identify it with the " Cove Mountain."
"It stands to the south-tcest of this stream, and presents to the view a huge
rock, resembling at a distance an old fortification, very high and detached,
as it were, from the eastern side of the mountain. After rain a stream
ru-shes from the west side of the rock, which, shooting from the top, falls in
a large cascade : to the east of which is a large natural cave, aflording an
entrance as wide as the cave itself." On the detached rock above mentioned
is the evident mark of a torrent after rain, down a steep Assure ; and the
only cave hereabouts is on the " Cove Mountain," whence it has its name.
" To Uie left of this," that is S.S.W., " you climb up to the top of the rock,
the advanced part of a large shelf Avhich projects at about half the height of
the mountain with a sweep, and leaves the space of about two acres at the
top. Round the north-west, the west, and the south of this area, the moun-
tain rises to a great height, and stands like a vast wall. The area is almost
round, and slopes gently from all sides towards the middle, where is formed
a beautiful circular lake as clear as crystal." This is the " Cove Lough," a
small mountain tarn, and the description is accurate. Fi'om hence the ex-
cursion may be extended to the Blue Lough and Bingian.
Slieve Commedagh and the Castles of Kivittar are near to Slieve
Donard, on the north-west side, and easily reached from it.
The Down Coast Coaches run through from Newcastle to
Warrenpoiut, and the reverse way, three times a day, stopping
at Annalong, Kilkeel, and Rostrevor. The route is described
from Warrenpoint, page 276. (There is also a coach to and from
Greencastle which connects with this service at Kilkeel, while
the L. and N.-W. Rly. has a steamer service from Greencastle
to Greenore.) See also pink pages.
Newtonaxds (pop. 8197; Hotel: Londonderry Ulster Arms
Temp.) is an important centre of the linen trade, 13 miles by
rail from Belfast. It is agreeably situated at the northern point
of Lough Strangford, which is navigable to within ^ a mile of
the town, and at low water affords a fine level strand for many
miles. It was erected into a borough in the reign of James I.,
and incorporated under the name of a ^^rorosi, twelve burgesses,
and commonality. The Society of Friends were among the past
benefactors of the town, having established a linen factory
nearly a century ago. There are flax mills, a very large weaving
THE DISTRICT OF
THE MOURNE MOUNTAINS
PiiTishelTy A* CJilark
THE DISTRICT OF
THE JIOURNE MOUNTAINS
NEWT0NARD3 293
factory, and a hem-stitching factory. In 1214 a Dominican
friary was established, which was granted at the Dissolution to
Viscount ClandeLoy at the annual rent of 13s. 4d. The town
and neighbouring country belong to the Londonderry estate.
The ruins of the Old Parish Church are at the east end of High
Street. It contains parts of the 13th-century structure ; and
within it are the tombs of the Londonderry and other great
local families. Note the modern cross. The Town-ball, erected
in 1770, includes assembly-rooms, billiard-room, news-room, free
people's library, and amusement room. In the centre of the
town is the pedestal of an ancient cross. Among tbe other
buildings are the Court-house and the Market.
The extensive freestone quarries of Scrabo Hill, near the town, are well
known to geologists. "There are few places wliere the phenomena of
igneous intrusion can be more advantageously studied than at this spot"
(Hull).
A car runs from Newtonards along the shore of the lough to
Orey Abbey (7 miles), a ruin which is well worth the excursion
(see page 285).
BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
The most direct way of reachiug the Causeway from Belfast
is by rail to Portrush, and thence by electric tramcar. After
visiting Dunluce Castle and the Causeway the tourist may
return to Portrush in time for the evening train to Belfast.
As there is nothing to interest a stranger on the railway line
from Belfast to Portrush, the better way for those who have time
is to take the Coast Route (II. p. 315) by Carrickfergus, Larne
and Cushendall to the Giant's Causewaj^, and thence by
Dunluce Castle, Portrush and Portstewart to Coleraine ; and so
on to Londonderry or the Donegal Highlands. The return
journey can be made by train from Londonderry to Belfast
{Belfast and N. Counties Ely.) by Coleraine, Ballymena and
Antrim ; or {Gt, Northern Illy.) by Strabane, Omagh and Dun-
ganuou.
Route I.
Inland by Railway and Electric Tramway.
TOWNS ON OR NEAR THE RAILWAY (G.N.R.)
Carrickfergus.
Antrim.
Randalstown.
Ballymena.
Ballymoney.
Coleraine.
Portstewart.
Portrush.
Bushmills.
The Causeway.
Leaving the busy town of Belfast behind us, we soon find
ourselves in the midst of the cultured meadows of the county of
Antrim. The way, whether by rail or road, is, for a space of
nearly 8 miles, by the side of Belfast Lough, originally called
the Bay of Carrickfergus, a fine sheet of water about 12 miles
long and 6 broad, measuring from Bangor in Down to "Whitehead
on the Antrim side. The breadth gradually diminishes from
the entrance to the harbour of Belfast. There are scarcely any
rocks in tliis bay, except two reefs, one on the south and the
CARRICKFERGUS 295
other on the north side, called the Briggs, i.e. the tombs ; but
by the Scotch the Clachau, from its resemblance to a village,
when uncovered at low water. There is a shoal a little south-
west of Carrickfergus, over which lie 9 feet of water at ebb-tide.
The Speedwell, a Scottish ship, 'in King William's reign, was the
only ship ever known to sutler on it.
Cave Hill, attaining an elevation of 1140 feet, is conspicuous
on the left after leaving Belfast (see page 270).
At Gkeencastle was formerly the ancient castle of the
Burghs, Earls of Ulster and Lords of Connaught. This was
considered to be an important stronghold by the English settlers,
for we find that in the reign of Henry IV. the constable of the
castle had a salary of £20 per annum. " In 1495 it was thought
to be a place of so much importance to the Crown that no person
but of English birth was declared capable of being constable
of it. It was a garrison in the rebellion of 1641, and helped to
restrain the Irish in these then uncultivated parts." A little
farther on, in the village of Whitehouse, is the site of the first
cotton factory in Ulster. The linen trade is now carried on there.
WHiTEABiiEY has three claims on our notice : the ruins of its
Abbey Church, its flax-mill, and its picturesque glen in the
demesne of Mr. William Valentine, J. P. The walls of the old
Abbey Church are pretty entire. In the eastern gable are three
lancet-shaped windows.
A little beyond Jordanstown we turn back westward, leaving
the coast line which goes on to Larne.
[Carrickfergus (pop. 4269 ; Hotel : Morrison's) is on the
line to Larne, 3 miles from Green island. Formerly it was
a parliamentary borough, and until 1850 was the assize town
of the county. It is supposed to derive its name, " The Rock of
Fergus," fi-om Fergus MacErch, who established the fii-st Irish
settlement on the opposite coast of Caledonia. In reference to
the original foundation of the picturesque old castle there is no
certain information, but most of the present structure was built
in the 12th century. It surrendered to Edward Bruce in 1315.
Subsequently the town suffered frequently from sieges, and in
the 16th century a great part of it lay for a long time in ruins.
William III. landed at the castle in 1690, before the battle of the
Boyne, and in 1760 it was attacked by the French, when they
attempted a landing in behalf of the Irish rebels.
296 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
The castle, which is one of the most complete specimens of
ancient Anglo-Norman fortresses in the kingdom, is built on a
rock close to the sea-shore, and commands in a most effectual
manner the lough or bay of Belfast. To the land side the rock
slopes considerably, but even at ordinary tides the building is
three parts surrounded by water. The passage which defends
the entrance was formerly divided by a drawbridge defended by
a barbican. At the west side of the castle is a dam originally
intended to supply the ditch with water. Another defensive
contrivance is above the gate, in the shape of a "machicolation
or aperture for letting fall stones, melted lead, or the like, on
the assailants." Inside of the gate is a strong portcullis and
another aperture like that outside. A new guard-room and
barrack were added in 1802.^
Tlie great leep is one of the finest Norman buildings of the kind. It
was probably built about 1178, just a hundred years after the " Tover" of
London was erected. It is only 2 feet shorter than the latter, and has, like
Carisbrook, Isle of Wight, and Dover, a well within it.
The Protestant Episcopal Church of St. Nicholas contains
some interesting monuments to the Chichester family. One,
erected in 1625, has kneeling figures of Sir Arthur, the founder
of the family, and his lady. Between them lies the figure of
their infant son, and below is the effigy of Sir John Chichester.
Heraldic emblems decorate the tomb. Near an old barrack at
the entrance to the town, in the ground below low-water mark,
a quantity of peat was found, containing embedded in it portions
of trees and a quantity of hazel-nuts. There are extensive salt-
mines at Duucove, near the town, and at Woodburn there is a
very pretty glen. The new harbour has increased the prosperity
of the town.]
1 The following description of the castle occurs in a survey by Clarkson
in 1.567 :— "The building of the said castle on the south ).art is three towers,
viz. the gate-house tower in the middle thereof, which Is the entry at a draw-
bridge over a dry moat, and in said tower is a prison and porter-lodge, and
over the same a fair lodging, called the constable's lodging ; and in thecour-
tain between the gate-house and west tower in the corner, being of divers
squares, called Cradyfergus, is a fair and comely building, a chapel, and
divers house of uflice on the ground, and above the great cliauiber and the
lords lodging, al) of which is now in great decaie as well as the couverture,
being lead, also, in timber and glass, and without help and reparation it will
Roon come to utter niiu.'
ANTRIM— LOUGH NEAGH 297
Four miles beyond the J uuotiou is Ballyclare Junction, whence
the narrow-gauge rail to Larne turns off to the right. In the
neighbouring village of Templepatrick is a hospital of "Knights
of St. John of Jerusalem," which was bestowed upon Sir Arthur
Chichester by James I. The entrance to Castle Upton, the fine
seat of Viscount Templetown, is in the village. Its history is
very curious. An English officer named Sir Humphrey Norton
became possessed of the religious house, and erected a castle,
which was styled indiscriminately Templepatrick Castle and
Castle Norton. Norton's daughter, however, married a sergeant
of dragoons named O'Linn, which so exasperated the knight
that he disposed of his property to another officer named Henry
Upton and fled the country. Dunadry, where there are exten-
sive bleachfields, is celebrated on account of an engagement
between the English and Scots forces in 1648, which resulted in
the death of the English commander, Owen O'Conuelly. A short
distance off is Donegore Moat and church. The village of
Muckamore and its ruined abbey are passed before arriving at
Antrim.
Antrim (pop. 1385; Hotel: Massareene Arms), 22 m. from
Belfast, an attractive little town on the Six-Mile Water, near
Lough Neagh, containing several well-built and commodious
dwelling-houses and shops. It consists of two principal streets.
In the vicinity there is a very fine round tower, 92 feet high,
one of the oldest of its kind in the country. Above the doorway
there may be traced the design of a cross within a circle, but it is
not in good repair. Considerable damage was done to the tower
in 1822 by lightning. Near the town is Antrim Castle, an old
embattled building with towers and turrets, the seat of Viscount
Massareene. In the oak room of the castle is the chair occupied
by the Right Hon. John Foster, the last Speaker of the Irish
House of Commons. Being strongly opposed to the Union he
refused to give up chair or mace. In 1798 Lord O'Neill was
slain in Antrim in a fight with the Irish insurgents. From
Antrim it would be well to walk through the extensive and
beautiful demesne of Antrim Castle and visit
Lough Neagh, the largest lake not only in Ireland but in the
United Kingdom, and exceeded in size by only a few in Europe.
This gi-eat sheet of water washes portions of the five counties of
298 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
Derry, Antrim, Down, Armagh and Tyrone. ' ' Its length from
north to south is 15 miles, and its breadth 12, giving an area of
150 square miles. The general depth is only from 20 to 40 feet,
gradually increasing towards the northern shore, and the surface
level is 48 feet above that of the sea." Professor Hull, whose
words we quote, gives interesting proof that the "Old Lough
Neagh " was originally of far greater area, extending southwards
much beyond the present limits. Geologists were formerly
considerably puzzled about the origin of the lake bed, as it was
clearly not due to ice action or chemical solution ; but it is now
concluded that the depression "offers an illustration of a basin
formed by the mechanical action of faults on the strata assisted
by the action of running water."
A canal connects it with Belfast, Newry and Lough Erne,
and there is sufficient depth of water for the navigation of
wherries from shore to shore. The origin of the name is involved
in obscurity. Lough Neagh, at one time written Lough N'Eachach,
is said to have derived its name from an ancient prince of Ulster,
Eiichach (shortened to Eagh), who was drowned by a sudden over-
flow of the river Bann, or some other extraordinary cause,
whereby the whole adjoining country was laid under water about
A.IJ. 100.
Extravagant tales have been told about the petrifying pro-
perties of the water, but these, if they exist, are believed to be
confined to the Crumlin water, a small stream which runs into the
lake near the village of that name. There is no difficulty in be-
lieving Barton, who in 1757 said that "a petrifaction was found
1 mile from the mouth of the Crumlin River ; it was 700 lbs.
weight ; it was entirely stone witlioutany wood within it. When
the water was low it appeared like the stump of an old tree." ^
Specimens of this fossil wood are frequently to be met with among
the peasantry. They are very beautiful, being real petrifactions,
and not merely incrustations. They take a good polish, and look
quite as well as many of the best specimens from Antigua. In
this lake is found the pollan (Corcgonus pollan), a bright silvery
fish, which in the season is as common as heri'ing in the cottages
of the poor.
The visitor will remember the old legend of the submerged
town to which Moore alludes in the lines : —
1 Lectures on Natural Philosophy, by Richard Barton, B.D., 1757.
LOUGH NEAGH 299
" Ou Lough Neagh's banks as the fishemian strays,
When the clear soft eve's declining,
He sees the round towers of other days
In the wave beneath him shining."
At Toome Bridge and other villages along the shores of the
lake great numbers of flint implements have been found, and
some of these places were probably productive fishing stations
in prehistoric times (see Evans' Ancient Stone Implements).
Ram's Island, off the eastern shore, contains an area of
about 6 acres. It is a spot of great beavity, being delightfully
wooded. It contains a pleasant cottage and the shattered remains
of a round tower ornamented with a variety of shrubs and flower-
ing plants. There are only two other islands on the lake.
Shane's Castle {about 4 miles from Antrim ; public admitted
two days a week, see p. 300) is the seat of Lord O'Neill, the repre-
sentative of an ancient and noble family. It is on the margin
of the lake. The building was accidentally reduced to a state
of ruin by fire in 1816. The walls, with their towers and turrets,
still exist. The O'Neills were long famotis in Ulster,
" When her kings, with standard of green unfurl'd.
Led the Red-Branch knights to danger ; —
Ere the emerald gem of the western world
Was set in the crown of a stranger." — Moore.
The origin of the title Red-Branch is variously given, as well as
the Red-Hand, in the arms of Ulster. What seems to be the
parent legend is, that at some very remote period a party from
some unknown land sailed to Ireland for the purpose of conquer-
ing it. Nearing the Ulster coast it was agreed that whoever
should touch the land first should be lord over it. One daring
chief, seeing a probability of his losing the prize, deliberately cut
off his left hand and threw it on the shore before the other boats'
crews could land, and thus, having first touched the soil, he
claimed it, and from him sprang the O'Neills, the royal race of
Ulster.
Leaving Lough Neagh and Antrim we continue our railway
ride to Ballymena. Not long after quitting Antrim the deer-
park of Shane's Castle is passed. In the graveyard (now-
disused) close to the old ruin there is a stone which once
marked the place of sepulture of the O'Neills. It bears the
300 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
following inscription, forcibly reminding us of some of the multi-
nominal titles of the Highlanders of Scotland. " This vault was
erected in the year 1660 by Shean MacPhelim MacBryan MacShean
O'Neill, Esq., as a burying place for himself and the family of
Clandeboy."
[From Cookstoum Junction a line boars west across the north
shore of the lake through
Randalstown (pop. 847; Hotel: O'Neill Arms), 4 miles
from Antrim, the best point from which to visit Shane's Castle
demesne, which should be entered from this end. It is a town of
some antiquity, and was the headquarters of the forces which
in 1688 were despatched to Londonderry. There are some linen
manufactories here. The Main is crossed by a stone bridge.
On the river there is remarkablj' good fishing, inquiries regard-
ing which should be made at the hotel.]
From Antrim to Ballymena the country is by no means
attractive, but the distance is only 12 miles, and we soon reach
Ballymena (pop. 10,880; Hotels: Adair Arms; Clarence;
Ko^'al). Here is held weekly one of the most extensive pork
r.nd flax markets in Ireland. In the vicinity is a rath about
50 feet high, well planted, and known as Ballykeel Moat. In
connection with it is a partial amphitheatre, which may lead to
the belief that it is of Druidical origin. About 2^ miles from
Ballymena, on the western side, on a rising ground opposite
Galgorm Castle, the seat of the Right Hon. J. Young, is the
neat little village of Gracehill, a Moravian settlement founded
in 1765. It contains about 400 inhabitants.
Seven miles east of Ballymena is Slemish, a mountain (1457
feet) on which St. Patrick lived as a shepherd (p. 272). In that
direction there is a Druidical altar, a little to the left of the
public road. The inclined stone is about 10 feet by 8. There
is good froo fishing in the streams in the neighbourhood.
Then little of interest occurs before Ballymoney (53.^ m.).
Ballymoney (poji. 2975 ; Hotels: Royal; Antrim Arms), one
of the most thriving market-towns in the County Antrim. In
1867 a new town-hall was erected by public subscription. The
building also includes an assembly hall, uewi^room and librarj".
A pleasant and inturestiug tour of one day may be made from
Belfast by Ballymoney (B, k N. Co. R.), Ballycastle (light
COLERAINE— PORTSTEWART 301
railway), Bushmills and Causeway (by car), Portrush (electric
railway) and train to Belfast.
Three miles beyond Ballymoney is Macfin Junction, from which
a soathern branch goes to Garvagh and Maghera. From the
junction it is 4| m. to
Coleraine (pop. 68i5 ; Hotels : Cloth-Workers' Arms ; Cor-
poration Arms), an important and prosperous town, finely
situated on the river Bauu, about 4^ miles from the Atlantic
Ocean. It is an ancient place ^ and as early as A.D. 540 was the
seat of a priory founded by St. Carbreus. Many of the old houses
of the 17th century were in existence fifty years ago. It has
long been noted for the excellence of its linens, called
" Cohrai7ies" ; for its whisky, and for its salmon-fisheries on
the Bann. The "Cutts" and the Salmon Leap about li mile
up the river, are well deserving of a visit. The walk is a most
pleasant one.
The lines —
When she saw me she stumbled,
The pitc-her it tumbled.
need hardly be quoted here to remind the visitor that "Kitty's
disaster " took place at Coleraine.
Castlerock (5 miles from Coleraine on the line to London-
derry— Castlerock Hotel, overlooking the golf links), at the
mouth of the river Bann, is a favourite sea,side resort. It com-
mands fine views of Innishoweu Head in Donegal, and of Port-
stewart (east) towards the Giant's Causeway, with the wide
sweep of the Atlantic directly in front of it.
[For the route westward to Londonderry, done reverse way,
see p. 335.]
Portstewart (4 miles from Coleraine on the Portrush branch
line — Montagu Anns Hotel) is a small watering-place with some
claims to beauty. It is finely situated, has excellent bathing
ground and charming sea views. It was here that Charles Lever
was " Dispensary Doctor " for some years, during which he began
his series of brilliant novels. The tourist may go to Portrush by
tram and rail.
It is a fair cycling road to Portrush.
1 At Mount Sandell, one mile south of the town, on right bank of the
Bann, there is a large Danish fort.
3,02 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
/ PORTRUSH.
Railway Station. — Belfast and N. Co. Railway. (Ref. Rms.)
Electric Tram Station. — Close to railway station.
Steamers to Glasgow, 3 days a week ; Laird Line.
Pop. 1665.
This pleasant go-ahead little town has for some time been
attempting competition with Bray for the first place among
Irisli seaside resorts. The population of Bray is, of course,
four times greater. But whilst Bray, with far finer scenery at
its back, is slow to take advantage of its natural attractions, the
northern rival adapts itself more readily to the tastes of an in-
creasing number of summer visitors. It has a more exhilarating
climate, and, besides being only 8 miles from the Causeway, is
unusually fortunate in the possession of some splendid golf links.
It is to the latter, perhaps, as much as anything, that Portrush
owes its present popularity ; and on no links in Ireland, unless
it be at Lehinch, in Clare, are such a swarm of golfers to be seen
busy at " the wearin' of tlie green."
The outline of the coast which runs out into the sharp penin-
sula of Ramore Head somewhat resembles, on a reduced scale,
that of Scarborough. The town, though small, has some good
shops, an increasing number of neat buildings, air that is "a
cure for all maladies sure," and good bathing.
An obelisk was erected here in 1859 to Dr. Adam Clarke, the
well-known commentator, whose father was a schoolmaster in
the neighbourhood.
Golf Links. — The Portrush Golf Links are considered the
best in Ireland, and equal for turf, hazards, and scenery to most
of the finest greens in Scotland. The course is one of 18 holes,
stretching for three miles along the coast towards the Giant's
Causeway. There is a flourishing golf club, which has erected
a splendid club-house at an expense of £2200. The ladies have
a separate course of 18 holes for themselves, with a handsomely-
equipped club-house. Visitors have the privilege of the links
and club - house at a moderate charge. There is abundant
accommodation for families in the hotels, and in villas to be let.
There are many interesting excursions to be made in the
neighbourhood. Among these the chief are trips to the Cause-
way and to Dunluce Castle ; both of which can be reached by
y
PORTRUSH 303
tram or boat. The Causeway should, if possible, be visited
both ways, each route having rival advantages.
The White Rocks, on the way to Dunluce, are among the
most interesting objects on this extraordinai'y coast. It is said
that within a distance of 2 miles there are not fewer than
twenty-seven caverns, all natural excavations, worn into the
most fantastic shapes by the action of the waves on the white
limestone, from which they have been scooped. The most in-
teresting is that known as the " Priest's Hole."
PORTRUSH TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
By electric tram-car. Fares, Is. 6d. and Is. ; Return, 2s. and Is. 6d,
The Giant's Causeway Electric Tramway (the first tramway
of the kind constructed in the United Kingdom) was formally
opened to Bushmills by Lord Spencer 2Sth September 18S3, and
the daily service of electric cars established on 5th November
following. It proved a great success, upwards of 30,000 miles
having been run by electricity within the first eighteen months.
In 1887 it was completed to the Causeway. The project was
conceived and carried out by Mr. W. A. Traill, C. E., the late
Sir William Siemens designing and supplying the original
electrical plant.
The tramway is placed at the side of the road next the sea, on a slightly
raised path. It is laid with steel rails to a gauge of 3 feet. Along the toe of
the fence adjacent to the " tram-path," there is a raised conductor rail of T
iron, supported on short wooden posts, with insulating caps, about 18 inches
above the level of the rails ; this rail is made as perfectly insulated as pos-
sible, and mth continuous metallic contact throughout. Where interruptions
in the rail occur, as at field-gates and cross-roads, the conducting line is
continued by means of short underground insulated cables. The conductor
rail is kept constantly charged with electricity generated at an electrical
station on the river Bush. This raised side-rail is, owing to its exposed
position, a source of danger ; and in 1885 caused the death of an unwary
cyclist who fell upon it. Tickets of admission to see the electric machines
on the river Bush about a mile from Bushmills can be had on application to
the manager of the Tramway Company at Portrush, or at the Causeway
Hotel.
Dunluce Castle, 3| miles to the east of Portrush, has a fame
almost as widespread as its neighbour the Causeway. This is a
most picturesque group of ruins, and is well worth a visit.
304 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
Facing the ocean rises a sliarp, jagged, and precipitous mass of rock, on
whose levelled suramit rests a pile of turrets, walls and towers, gray with
age and exposure, more resembling continuations of the rocks themselves
than a separate formation, and "looking as if some old old princess, of old
old fairy times, were dragon-guarded within." Like Dunbar Castle, but far
more perfect, it boldly looks down on the wild waves which have beat against
its foundation for centuries. Dunluce stands about one hundred feet above
the sea, on a perpendicular and insulated rock. Tlie walls of the building
were never very lofty, but, judging from the great area which they enclosed,
contained a considerable number of apartments.
The castle rock, though isolated, is not completely water-
bound, being united to the mainland by a single wall not more
than 18 inches broad, which has replaced an earlier drawbridge.
Owing to the perpendicular nature of the rock, it must have
been impossible to take the castle, or to enter it at all, except
by the bridge across the yawning chasm. Among the ruins is
a small vaulted chamber, in which it is said a banshee resides.
The reason assigned for this belief is that the floor is always
perfectly clean, the spirit being apparently more allied to the
Scots brownie than the banshee, whose "mournful wail" fore-
tells death or dishonour to the family whose attendant it is.
The true solution of the problem is, that the wind having free
access to and egress from the apartment, carries dust and dirt
before it. Another chamber in the north-east side has fearful
attractions for the daring, but had better be avoided by the
timid. The rock which formerly supported this room has fallen
away, and, like a dovecot, it is suspended in the air only by its
attachment to the other buildings. The rock on which the
castle is built is perforated by a long narrow cave, penetrating
completely through from the sea to the rocky basin on the land
side of the castle. It may be entered by a small aperture on
the south end, and at low water there is a good deal of flooring
uncovered, which consists of large round stones. This form is
the consequence of the action of the waves. The floor and roof
are composed of basalt. There is a good echo in the cave when
the water is calm. It is not known when the castle was first
built, but there is a general opinion that the M'Quillans erected
it about or soon after the reign of Henry VIII. "In 1580, or
thereabouts. Colonel MacDonnell, the founder of the family of
MacDonnells of Antrim, came to Ireland to assist Tyrconnel
against the O'Neill, a powerful chieftain, and was hospitably
entertained by M'Quillan, the Lord of Dunluce, whom he
DUNLUCE CASTLE 305
assisted in subduing his savage neiglibours. As they succeeded
in their enterprise, MacDonnell returned to Dunluce, and was
pressed to winter in the castle, having his men quartered on the
vassals of M'Quillan. MacDonnell, however, took advantage of
his position as a guest, and privately married the daughter of
his host. Upon this marriage the MacDounells afterwards
rested their claim to M'Quillan's territory." A conspiracy
among the Irish to murder the Scottish chief and his followers
was discovered to him by his wife, and they for a time made
their escape but again returned, and in time possessed a con-
siderable portion of Antrim. The Scottish family became Lords
of Anti'ira and Dunluce.
In 1642 Dunluce Castle was the scene of a villainous act of
treachery. In the month of April of that year General Munroe
made a visit to the Earl of Antrim, and was received with many
expressions of joy, and honoured with splendid entertainments ;
and besides, the Earl offered him assistance of men and money
to reduce the country to tranquillity. But Munroe afterwards
seized on the Earl's person, and putting the other fortresses of
his lordship into the hands of the Marquis of Argyll's men, con-
veyed the Earl to Carrickfergus, and imprisoned him in the
castle of that place, from which he soon eflected his escape, and
withdrew to England.
On the Causeway side are the ruins of the kitchen. Part of
this, with eight servants at work in it, fell into the cave below
during a great storm in 1639. The Marchioness of Buckingham
was at the time eutertaiuiiig visitors in the castle. — Mar ray.
In the autumn of 1814 a visit was paid to the ruins of Dun-
luce by Sir Walter Scott, who observed a great resemblance in
it to Dunnottar Castle in Kincardineshire. A detailed descrip-
tion of the ruins is given in his diary.
Geologists have been somewliat puzzled to account for the fact that whilst
the castle rock is surrounded by chalk or basalt on all sides, it is itself
formed of agglomerate, made up of " bombs of all sizes." It may be either
the neck of an old volcano, or, more probably, a pipe-hole in the chalk into
which the fragments have fallen and formed a mass.
Two miles beyond Dunluce the train makes a sharp bend at
Bushmills Station before following the Bush river in the direc-
tion of the Causeway. From Bushmills Station it is a long
4 mile into
20
306 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
Bushmills (pop. 1072 ; Hotels ; Commercial ; M'llroy's). This
is an old town, 6 miles east of Portrush, and about 8 miles fi'om
Coleraine (direct). It derives its name from the river Bush, on
which it is placed, and an old water-mill now in ruins. On an
adjoining hill stands the mansion-house of Dundarave, the seat
of Sir Francis E. Macnaghten, Bart., the proprietor of the dis-
trict. Bushmills is a favourite resort for anglers, on account
of the abundance of salmon in the "Bush." The tourist who
desires to. practise the "gentle art" will get much valuable in-
formation from the proprietor of the hotel. Near Bushmills are
the generating machines for the electric tramway. Bushmills
has long been famed for its whisky, and the distillery continues
to be one of the best in Ireland.
One mile beyond this station Port Ballintrae is noticed below
on the left, and over it is seen a view of the distant peninsula
of Inishowen, which should not be missed. The islands between
are the Skerries.
y
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
Hotels.— Causeway ; Royal.
Distances (by road).— Portrush, 8 ; Bushmillf?, 1\ ; Coleraine, 11 ; Liniavady,
24 ; Londonderry, 41 ; Carrick-a-Eede, 8^ ; Ballycastle, 12J ; Cusliendall,
2SJ Belfast, 78.
Team-cars. — (Week-days) Aep. 9.30 a.m., and almost every hour to 7.10 p.m.
(Sundays) dtp. 10.50 a.m., 1.30, 2.15, 4.45, 5.45 p.m.
Boats.— The hotel tariff for boats is — Uliorl Course, for 4 persons or under, 4s. ;
Long Course, for 4 persons or under, 6s.
The Causeway has been flippantly compared to " Bradshaw's
Railway Guide " — not exactly picturesque in appearance, but
much appreciated after examination of individual columns. As
a matter of fact, it can be compared to nothing in Europe, unless
it be part of Fingal's Cave in Staffa, and has a character of its
own as peculiar as it is wonderful. The name of these rocks,
which first began to attract the attention of tourists in 1693, is
applied more especially to one remarkable jetty below the hotels,
the name "Causeway Cliffs" being more loosely applied to the
entire length of coast extending on each side of the former, from
Portcoon on the west to Poi'tfad on the east — a total distance of
about 4 miles.
Of the traditions without end which attempt to account for this wonderful
natural production, we will content ourselves with one. The giant Fin
MacCoul was the champion of Ireland, and felt very much aggrieved at the
insolent boasting of a certain Caledonian giant, who oQered to beat all who
came before him, and even dared to tell Fin that if it weren't for the wetting
of himself, he would swim over and give him a drubbing. Fin at last applied
to the king, who, perhaps not daring to question the doings of such a weighty
man, gave him leave to construct a causeway right to Scotland, on which the
Scot walked over and fought the Irishman. Fin turned out victor, and with
an amount of generosity quite becoming his Hibernian descent, kindly
allowed his former rival to marry and settle in Ireland, which the Scot was
308 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
not loath to do, seeing that at that time living in Scotland was none of the
best, and everybody knows that Ireland was always the richest country in
the world. Since the death of the giants, the Causeway, being no longer
wanted, has sunk under the sea, only leaving a portion of itself visible here,
a little at the island of Eathlin, and the portals of the grand gate on
Staffa.
The construction of the volcanic rock — basalt — of ■nliich they
are composed is similar to that of Fingal's Cave, and so unusual
as to make this perhaps the most weird and wonderful portion of
all the coast of Ireland. We have here a remnant of those " far-
reaching sheets of basalt that built up a plateau of which parts
of Antrim and Argyll, the islands of Mull, Skye, Rum, and St.
Kilda, and probably part of Iceland, the only point where the
volcanoes are still active, are all that are left."
Professor Hull has shown that there were "three stages"
during which the volcanoes of this district were in activity and
sent out sheets of lava "over nearly the whole of the county of
Antrim and the adjoining parts of Londonderry and Tyi'one."
It was after the second period of eruption, and of rest that fol-
lowed, that for the third time the volcanic iires burst forth, and
the molten masses now to be seen cold and rigid in the columnar
basalt of these northern cliffs were poured out over the chalk
that lies deep below. The last eruption, it has been concluded,
which took place in the district must have been somewhere near
Ballycastle.
The writer above quoted points out how the scenery of the
volcano country of Antrim, levelled down as it is by water and
ice, is in striking contrast with that of Auvergne in Central
France. There the old craters and cones, not planed off by such
levelling agencies, still remain. In the volcanic formations of
the Deccau, in N.E. India, on the other hand, are to be found
rocks of precisely the same description as these in the Causeway
Cliffs.
So much for general facts. In turning to details we must con-
fine our description within short limits, just enumerating the
most important points, and leaving the rest to the guides. For
guides are anything but difficult to procure, and you should
obtain one : he will add much to the fun. The majority of
tourists, indeed, will find, as did Thackeray, that minus the
amusing society of " Pat," seeing the Causeway would indeed be
a serious affaii-. Not, however, that we could agree with this
PORTCOON— RUNKERRY— PLEASKIN 309
flippant critic's opinion that ' ' the barge moored at Hnngerford
Market is a more majestic object." "With the same writer's irrita-
tion at the persistent importunity of the vendors of sham " speci-
mens " we heartily sympathise.
Before going to the Causeway the visitor is recommended to
take a boat over the "Short Course," and, if time allows, the
additional excursion in the "Long Course." Afterwards he may
examine tlie Causeway, and then enjoy the views and the breeze
along the top of the Eastern Cliffs.
The Short Course, by boat, takes us out of Portnabo Bay to
the next inlet westward, Portcoon, from which Portcoon Cave
derives its name. This can also be reached by land. The echo
produced by a musical instrument is amusing, while that of a
loaded gun or small cannon is stupendous. The story goes that
this cave was inhabited by a hermit giant, who, having sworn a
solemn oath never to touch food brought to him by human hands,
was fed by seals, which carried him provisions in their mouths.
Runkerry Cave, the larger of the two, can only be entered by
water. The entrance is tolerably regular, and somewhat re-
sembles a Gothic arch. This cave is situated to the west of Port-
coon. Perhaps the most peculiar circumstance connected with
this cave is the rising of the water following the swell of the
ocean, which upon this coast is at all times heavy.
From Runkerry the boat returns and lands you at the Cause-
way. But, if possible, by all means continue on
The Long Course, also by boat. This is a very interesting
excursion, and quite worth the time and expense. After
"doing " the caves described above, the boat passes across Port-
noffer in sight of the Causeway, here low and insignificant, the
Oiant's Organ, and Sea Gull Island. Then rounding Roverin
Point you see the remarkable Arn/phitheatre ; at the other end of
it are the Chimney Tops, and, beyond, Spanish Bay, where some
Spanish galleon of the Great Armada is said to have been dashed
to bits more than three hundred years ago. Benanouran Head
is perhaps not so popular as the headland following, on which
are the rocks called the King and Nobles.
Then comes the far-famed Fleaskin Head, which so struck the
enthusiastic Dr. Hamilton of Derry, a century ago, that, ignorant
or oblivious of the far grander beauty of the cliffs below Slieve
League in Donegal, he declared Pleaskin "in beauty and variety
310 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
of colouring, in elegance and novelty of arrangement, and in the
extraordinary magnitude . . . cannot readily be rivalled by any-
thing of the kind at present known." It stands 400 feet above
sea-level, and is best seen from above "Dr. Hamilton's Seat,"
on the upper edge of the Head of Benlane, further east [see
page 313).
Here ends the "Long Course," though, at the cost of an
extra bargain, the row can be continued to Dunseverick, If mile
beyond.
Many details have been omitted from our description, but
the visitor, if interested, can, of course, readily learn them
from the boatmen, whose stock of Causeway "crams" is truly
marvellous.
THE CAUSEWAY.
The Causeway j^roper is a promontory composed of, appar-
ently, more or less broken pillars at the western or Bushmills
end of the series of cliffs we are describing. Although, broadly
speaking, it is one headland, it is usually divided for the sake of
convenience into three sections — the Little, Middle, and Grand
Causeways. In these the peculiar structure of these basalt I'ocks
reaches its climax, and is most apparent to the eye. Here "we
walk over the heads of some of the forty thousand columns — for
this number has been counted by some curious and leisurely person.
All look beautifully cut and polished, formed of such neat pieces,
so exactly fitted to each other, and so cleverly supported that we
might fancy we had before us the product of human workman-
ship." All is in geometrical order, and all appears sawn to
measure by some mighty mason for the building of some vast
palace : —
" proportions where the Almighty hand
That made the worlds, the Sovereign Architect,
Had deigned to work as if with human Art."
The interest of it all centres in the peculiar form and fitting
of these 40,000 pillars. Notwithstanding some variety, there is
a certain uniform type running throughout the whole group.
For the majority of the pillars have either ^ve or six sides, are
generally about 20 feet in length by 20 inches in diameter, and,
somewhat after the fashion of bamboo, are divided into short
sections. The latter are jointed in a remarkable manner, almost
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY 311
as neatly as the bones of an animal's limb ; the convex base
fitting closely the concave top below it. Among the exceptional
varieties the visitor is shown 3 of these "polygons" with nine
sides apiece, 1 with four sides, and 1 with three sides. The Key-
stone is said to be the only instance of an octagonal or 8-sided
column.
Similar columns occur again in the " Spanish Organ " and the
"Giant's Organ," at Coleraine, and again at Ballintoy. The
caves of Staffa also, in Scotland, which were discovered by the
tourist world some hundred years later than this coast, are
built up of similar columns, and, besides, have a " Great Cause-
way " much like this, and even a rival "wishing chair."
How did these pillars get their remarkable shape ? is of course the first
question occurring to every one who visits the place. The answer has
been recently given in a form so easily understood that we venture to
quote it. " All hot things shrink on cooling, and large ones become so much
strained that they generally crack. One of the most characteristic results of
shrinking, when due to cooling from one surface, is the formation of sets of
cracks dividing the surface into hexagons (having 6 sides) which fit closely
together like the cells of a honeycomb ; these cracks extend downwards at
right angles to the surface, dividing the whole into columns, or prisms which
are 6-sided and fit closely together ; tliis is called cohimnar structure.
"A single experiment will illustrate. ... If a number of cigarettes be
packed as close as possible together it will be seen that each of the inner
ones touches six others. Now squeeze them together in the hand ; each one
will become flattened . . . the inner ones will become 6-sided.
" It is a similar cause which makes bee-cells hexagonal ; the bees all start
together as near as convenient, and each one tries to build a round cell, but
each cell comes into contact with six others, and acquires six sides by
pressure.
" If instead of pressure throughout the mass we imagine an evenly dis-
tributed stretching, each particle drawing its immediate neighbour towards
itself . . . something quite similar will follow, and evenly distributed hexa-
gons will form on the cooling surface ; . . . the cracks extend downwards,
breaking the whole mass up into symmetrical hexagonal columns. A little
starch mixed into a stiff paste and allowed to dry slowly . . . will be
seen to have split up into rough columns, the bulk of which are six-sided ;
. . . the result of shrinkage as the starch dries " {Geology, W. W. Watts).
In the Little Causeway are the Giant's Well, where sweet
water rises above the top of three six-sided pillars, and below
Aird Point we note the E ighlandman' s Bonnet, and beyond it
the Giant's Loom. Passing down to the sea the guide will give
imaginative colouring to the chief points of the Middle (or Honey-
comb) Causeway, though he will probably forget to remind
312 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
you when he comes to the only four-sided column to be found
here, that Staffa also has one and one only square stone. The
Scottish rival, too, has a "Fingal's "Wisliing Chair" no less
curious, if less sat upon than this of the Misses Pat. Here you
may, if you will, test the hardness of the stony throne surrounded
by a group of local "beauties" — an honour, however, not to be
had without payment.
The most impressive view of the Grand Causeway is seen by
standing at its far western end on the water's edge and looking
back across it towards the dark conical mass of Aird Point behind
it. It contains several unusual specimens of column, and the
Lady's Fan is made by an uncommon arrangement of pieces in a
sort of "whorl." The Keystone is declared to be the solitary
instance of an octagon (with 8 sides).
From the Giant's Loom a path starts along Portnoffer Bay ;
passing the Giant's Chair, out of which turns up, in a short
distance, a track to the top of the cliffs ; this is the Shepherd's
Path. If this latter is not climbed you may continue along the
shore for ^ mile farther, but it is best to ascend to the top at
once and spend the time among the upper views.
CLIFF WALK.
From the Hotels to Pleaskin Head, 2J miles ; Bengore Head, 4J ; Portfad,
Portmoon, 5J ; Dunseverick Castle, 7J ; Dunseverick Village, 8.
This is by far the finest thing to be done at the Causeway
Cliffs. The views are marked by considerable variety and strik-
ing peculiarity ; the breeze is warranted to remove all headaches
and hats.
At the end of the second bay from the Hotel you look down
from Aird Point upon the Three Causeways, and, on the right,
the zigzagging Shepherd's Path. Half a mile on, Roverin
Valley Head forms the western buttress of the Giant's Amphi-
theatre, of which the exuberant Kohl wrote wildly thus : —
"The most beautiful Amphitheatre in the world, that in Rome
not excepted ! The form of it is so exact half a circle, that no
architect could have possibly made it more so, and the cliff
slopes at precisely the same angle all round to the centre.
Round the upper part runs a row of columns 80 feet high ; then
comes a broad rounded projection, like an immense bench, for
PLEASKIN HEAD 313
the accommodatiou of the giant guests of Fiu MacCoul ; then
again a row of pillars 60 feet high, and then again a gigantic
bench, and so down to the bottom, where the water is enclosed
by a circle of black boulder stones, like the limits of the arena.
This is a scene, in speaking of which no traveller need fear in-
dulging in terms of exaggeration, for all that he can say must
remain far behind the truth ! "
The Giant's Chimney Tops are three isolated pillars stand-
ing on a promontory. The tallest of them is about 45 feet in
height. It is said that one of the ships belonging to the Spanish
Armada was driven in to the coast by stress of weather, and in
the mist took these isolated columns, then more numerous, for
the towers of Dunluce, and wasted their gunpowder in firing at
them. Port-na-Spania, the bay at the west end of which these
sentinels are placed, was, it is reported, the scene of the loss of
one or more of the Spanish vessels, and certainly no coast could
be more likely to destroy whatever sailed incautiously upon it.
Benanouran Head, The Priest and Ms Flock, The Nursing Child,
and King and his Nobles, will all be passed before we reacli
Pleaskin Head, the finest of all the promontories, as the
Giant's Amphitheatre is of the bays. The Pleaskin is called
by the Irish Plaisgcian, which signifies "dry head," in allusion
to its elevation above the watery element. It rises to an altitude
of about 400 feet, and exhibits numerous strata. The rich green
turf on the top of the rock, and the various colours of the strata,
lend to it a bright and picturesque appearance.
It is the rock which so excited the interest and admiration
of Dr. Hamilton, previously mentioned. This clergyman was
one of the first to devote careful study to the coast, and in his
"Letters from the Antrim Coast" penned some of the best
descriptions of these rocks which we have. His favourite seat
is still pointed out on the clitf-edge above Horse-shoe Harbour,
and on the headland next beyond Pleaskin.
The strata of Pleaskin lie in five courses. Immediately below
the surface soil is the Basalt, soon running into pillars and pre-
senting, as the Doctor said, "a magnificent gallery or colonnade
upwards of 60 feet in height." Supporting this is black irregular
rock, called "Amygdaloid" ; and below again the Basalt in
" a second range of pillars, between 40 and 50 feet in height and
sharply defined." These stand on a layer of bright red ochre
814 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
soil, which forms the most effective bit of colour in the whole
4 miles of cliffs ; and beneath the latter a base of jagged rocks
black in colour and irregular in nature.
Some one has noticed that, from the Portrush side of this rock, the end of
the red ochre stratum takes the shape of a Pharaoh's head, the pillars above
forming his head-dress.
Near this headland Dr. Hamilton found in 1790 a bed of iron-
oi'e. It is of the kind known as " pisolitic," and is considered by
Hull to have been formed by shallow lake-water in the period of
rest between the second and third volcanic eruptions {see page
308).
Leaving the Pleaskin, we continue eastward, passing Horse-
shoe Harbour and the Lion's Head, the Twins, the Giant's
Pulpit, a bold precijjitous rock, and Bengore Head. The last
named should be ascended to command a magnificent view of the
coast. A peculiar and irregular pillar called the Giant's Granny,
400 yards farther on, will attract the visitor's notice, and not
far from it four isolated columns known as the Four Sisters.
Rounding Port Fad we see the Priest, a solitary rock, and entering
Portmoon Bay observe a cataract rushing down to the sea, and
the Stack, a peculiar mass of columns resembling in general
outline a corn-stack.
At Port Fad Mine sections of the iron-ore above mentioned may be found.
Still farther on we pass a curious rock termed the Hen and
Chickens, and shortly arrive at
Dunseverick Castle, the ancient family seat of the O'Cahans
or O'Kanes. The castle as it now stands is a melanchol}^ remnant
of its former self. On looking at its position it is difScult at
lirst to imagine how it could ever be reached. Perched like a
nest on the top of a ban; insulated rock, without apparent access
from either side, it would not require any great stretch of imagina-
tion to suppose that it was the woi'k of the fantastic folk fabled
to have built the Causeway. "Immense masses of tlie rock
have been hewn away, rendering the castle as inaccessible as
possible. An enormous basaltic rock, south of the entrance,
also appears to have been cut of a pyramidal form, and flattened
on the top, 2)erhaps as a station for a warder, or for the purjiose
of placing upon it some engine of defence." The structure, of
MAP or THE
emmEm
& SURROUNDING COUNTRY.
Sca]^ off In,: Mile
GIAIN
CALTSEW
Granji, Causewt
The SigUaniman's Sonn
The Stoohans ^^,
FoftiuCboe^l.Sl
Leckilroy Cove,ii^i
TheMilt Stone
Sitnkeny Paint
The Ladie :-f}
BENGOKE HEAD
o
KILROOT— WHITEHEAD 315
which the ruins now remain, cannot date farther back than the
time of the M'Quillans of Dunluce.
The main inland road, easily struck from here, leads back
(right) to Bushmills in 4^ miles. It is 4 miles on (left) to
Ballintoy ; and 5 to Carrick-a-Rede bridge.
BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY AND
LONDONDERRY.
Route II.
By the Coast, throuoh Larne, Cushendall, etc.
To Larne (23 miles) by Belfast & N. Co. Rly. ; thence by car to Ciishendall
(25 miles) ; car to Cw^hendun (30 miles) ; car to Ballycasth (41 miles ; by Torr
Head 3 miles extra) ; and to the Causeway Hotels (54 miles) by car. For
Car times and fares see pink pages.
Among the Circular Tours arranged by the Belfast & N. Co. Railway, one
is specially to be recommended (No. 11). This takes the tourist by train to
Lame, by car through Cushendall to Portrush, and thence back by train
direct to Belfast.
This is not only far and away tlie best route between Belfast
and the Causeway ; it includes one of the most interesting drives
in Ireland, along the finest bit of the N.E. coast. The cycling
between Belfast and Larne is fair ; from the latter to Cushendall
good.
The line between Belfast and Carrickfergus (9^ miles) is
described on page 294. Then comes Kilroot, a parish once held
by Dean Swift, when the salary attached to it was only £100.
The church in which he preached is now a ruin.
Geologists will notice the raised beach here and the " blanched
marine shells." An important discovery of worked flints was
made here by the Belfast Naturalists' Club. Owing to the great
number of chips of flint accompanying the arrowheads or spear-
heads it has been concluded that " the shore of Kilroot had been
an ancient Palaeolithic Workshop where weapons of war or of
the chase were made from the ohalk-flints of the adjoining hills "
{Hull).
Whitehead, 9 miles from Larne, has lately become a summer
resort.
316 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
We next reach Ballycany, interesting as the site of the first
Presbyterian church established in Ireland. The village con-
tains the ruins of Ten)pleco]ran, at one time a fine crucilbrm
structure. The hamlet of Glenoe, 4 miles north-west of this,
which is situated on high ground, has a splendid sea view, and
a small but pretty waterfall.
Then passing the village of Glynn, with the ruins of an
ancient church once dependent upon the abbey of Kells, the
railroad conducts us along the west side of Larne Lough, which
presents the appearance of an inland lake, and has only a very
narrow entrance from the sea near the town of Larne. Opposite
is Olderfieet Castle, where The Bruce is said to have landed
with a large army. From this a ferry plies regularly to Island
Magee, a peninsula 8 miles in length, which forms a shelter along
the east side of Larne Harbour. Near the landing-place is an
ancient cromlech, the covering stone of which is 6 feet in length,
and triangular in shape, sloping to the east. At Brown's Bay
is a rocking-stone known as the " Giant's Cradle," said to acquire
a tremulous motion on the approach of criminals, and on the
east coast are the Gobbins, basaltic cliffs rising 200 feet per-
pendicularly from the sea. Near these are the isolated sea-
stacks of basalt well known to geologists. In the rebellion of
1641 the garrison of Carrickfergus committed a heartless
massacre on a party of Roman Catholics on this peninsula, many
of whom were forced over the Gobbins into the sea. ' ' Until a late
period, Island Magee was the reputed residence of witches, and
the theatre of sorcery."
LARNE.
'B.orrzia.— Olderfieet, facing luirbour; King's Amis: Lahama Hold; Eagle
Hotel.
Cars.— McNeill's cars to Cushendall, Ballycastle, etc., for the coast road to
the Causeway, daily, .see pink pages.
Steamers. — To Stranraer, in the season 2 sailings each way daily, except
Sunday. The open sea passage takes SO minutes.
Distances.— (iJatO Belfast, 23i; Ballyniena, 24J ; Parkmore(Glenariff), 37| ;
Ballymoney, 44i ; Coleraine, 62 J; Portrush, 58^'; Ballycastle, 61^;
Londonderry, 86 ;
(Road) Btlfast (by Carrickfergus), 24J ; Glenarm, 12 ; Cushendall, 25 ;
Ballycastle, 40J ; Giant's Causeway, 53J.
There is a notion afloat, which has captivated a certain
number of people, that the port of Larne is destined before many
LARNE 317
years to prove a serious rival to tliose of Kingstown and Belfast,
if not, indeed, to take their place, so far as England and Scot-
land are concerned. This seems somewhat fanciful. The pro-
moters of an "Undersea Railway" between Larne and Port-
patrick, to be a link in a through system between Galway and
London, are doubtless a practical body, and it was stated by the
deputation that waited on Mr. Gerald Balfour and Lord Cadogau
so long ago as July 1899 that "the tunnel would be carried
150 feet below sea-level." It was proposed that the Govern-
ment should guarantee 3 per cent on the £12,000,000 re-
quired. And in reply to Mr. Balfour's questions, Mr. Barton,
one of the civil engineers present, explained that "it was
the general opinion that the whole of the traffic for the
North of L-eland would go by the tunnel, as this route would
beat any other route from London to Belfast by two and a
half hours " (!) There was, he showed, no fear of land springs
penetrating the tunnel. The proposal seems to hang fire,
however, although it is revived from time to time, and will
probably continue to be of interest until a general cure for
the mal de mer is discovered.
The shortest distance between Ireland and Scotland is, as
every schoolboy knows, between Torr Head and the Mull of Kin-
tyre, where the width of the North Channel is only 12| miles ;
but unfortunately for the sea-sick Saxon the shortest practicable
crossing between Larne and Stranraer measures 39 miles. Forty
minutes, however, out of the two hours occupied in making this
passage are spent within Loch Ryan ; and if mal de mer alone
is the consideration this route is preferable to the 64 miles of
the passage between Holyhead and Kingstown.
The Curran, of which the name, like that on the north of
Clew Bay, means " the little sickle," lies between Island Magee
and the Glynn coast, south of the town. A glance at the map
will show how the northward-curving peninsula of Magee, and
the long tongue which protects Strangford Lough, bending away
southward, exactly correspond in shape to one another on opposite
sides of Belfast Lough.
We have previously mentioned the old tower of Olderfleet
Castle, which stands on the promontory of the Curran. At
onetime " important as a defensive fortress against the preda-
tory bands of Scots who infested the north-eastern coasts, it was
generally under the direction of a governor." The castle and
318 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
adjoining territory were granted in 1610 to Sir Arthur Chichester,
the founder of the noble family of Donegal. It was here that
Edward Bruce, the last monarch of Ireland, landed with his
band of Scots, when he endeavoured to free Ireland from English
rule in 1315.
Larne {jjop. 7600) cannot boast of many attractions for the
tourist, but a pleasant car drive may be made to Glenoe and its
waterfall, 4 miles away (page 31C).
The fine coast drive of over 50 miles between Larne and the
Causeway should not be missed by any visitor.
During the 12 miles between Larne and Glenarm, the principal
object of interest, beside the fine sea views, is Ailsa Craig,
popularly known as Paddy's Milestone, some 38 miles out across
the North Channel.
Formerly a nari'ow and difficult way, called "the Path,"
alone conducted the traveller along this coast, but now it is
traversed by a very fine road, called the Antrim coast road.
The section from Larne to Ballycastle, with its viaducts, cost
£37,000. About four miles from Larne is a bold promontory
known as Ballygawley Head, faced with enormous basaltic
pillars, many joints of which are not less than eight feet in
length. Near this, on a solitary rock in the sea, is Cam, built
in 1625 by the family of Shaw. It fell into the hands of the
Irish in the rebellion of 1641. It has little real interest, although
it his given birth to a tradition about a tyrannical father and a
love-lorn maid.
Glenarm (Hotels : Antrim Arms ; Seaview ; Commercial.
Mail-cars to Larne, Ballymena, Cushendall and Ballycastle.
Pop. 1248) is a neat little town consisting of a number of cottages
situated in a beautiful vale opening on the pretty little bay of
the .-ame name. The castle of Glenarm, erected in 1639, is the
seat of the Antrim family. It stands in a commanding position
near the town, surrounded by a splendid deer-park encompassed
by an embattled wall.
The remains of a monastic building are in the churchyard.
This monastery was founded in 1465 bj' a Scotchman, Sir Robert
Bisset, who had been banished from his own country for being
accessory to the murder of the Duke of Atholl, and was therefore
patronised and established hero by Henry III.
GLEXARM 319
There is a small harbour, and some trade is carried on with
Scotland ; the import being coal, and the principal exports grain,
iron ore, and Limestone. "A brook sparkles through the valley,
and here and there little waterfalls run down the black rocks on
either side, keeping the land well irrigated, and covering it with
a carpet of the brightest verdure imaginable, as well as affording
nourishment to the most beautiful clumps of stately old trees
which dot it here and there. Near the village and castle all
traces of wilderness vanish entirely, and a charming park and
pretty flower-garden confer additional beauties on the scene."
It was here that Thackeray "heard the thumping of the
drum" which announced the performance in the Wandering
Theatre of the modestly titled drama ' ' Bombastes Furioso, and
the Comic Bally of Glenarm in an Uproar." How rarely are
wandering players to be seen now !
Along the road 10 or 12 miles beyond Glenarm, on each side
of Garron Point, the coast road has proved one of the most ex-
pensive in Ireland, as storms have frequently broken it down.
Camlowjh {Londonderry Arms), three miles beyond, is a plea-
santly situated "sea-side," Then at 18 miles from Lame,
under the north-east shoulder of Knockore, is Garron Tower
(18 miles), lately converted into an hotel. It is built of
very dark stone, and, in style, an impressive-looking castle.
Up to 1899 this was the mansion of the Marquis of Londonderry,
and long celebrated for its fine position on its bold rocky terrace,
and for the interesting collection of curios. Among these are
carnon from "Waterloo, an Irish "elk," specimens of Venetian
and oriental art, old china, carvings, and some pictures.
Early morning mail-car from Lame ; and McXeill's Tourist Cars. Post
and Telegraph Office at Garronpoint.
After rounding Garron Point the road passes, on the left
bank, the Clogh-a-stucan ("Pinnacle of Stone"), commonly
called the WJiite Lady. This is probably the most remarkable
of all the natural rock figures along the Irish coast. From one
point of view, obtained by standing a short distance away on
the road side, it has a most curious resemblance to a woman
stepping seaward.
Turning sharply inland the coast road foUows the curiously
angular shore of Red Bat (23 miles), so caUed from the colour
of the sandstone, which is in contrast with the chalk farther
320 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
south. It lies pleasantly at the foot of the deep valley down
which the Glenariff river runs. Waterfoot is the village here at
the mouth of that stream ; and Parkmore Station is 6 miles up
the valley. At a few miles' distance, between these two, iron
ore was discovered some time ago, but the attempt to work it has
fallen through. Near Parkmore are the Falls of Glenariff,
described on page 321. Those can be reached by both roads
along the valley ; the eastern, or left one, is rougher and wilder.
For Lurigethan (1154), the hill overhanging the western car road,
see page 321.
With a sharp bend the road from Waterfoot leads on to Cushen-
dall. We see something of the sandstone caves, and pass under
Mr. Turnly's red archway, and notice above, on the left, the
ruins of the "ancient ould castle" of Red Bay. One mile
farther we see the curious village tower of j__^. ,
Nearest Station.— Parkmore (Belfast & N. Co.), 7 miles.
Hotel. — Glens of Antrim, at seaward end (pleasant).
Post and Telegraph Office.
Caes.— Public cars to Larne, by Garron Point ; to Ballycastle and Giant's
Causeway ; and Parkmore. See pink pages.
Good boating and bathing.
Some are of opinion that no place on the Antrim coast offers
greater natural attractions as a centre for the visitor than Bally-
castle. Personally we prefer to think that Cushendall should be
first favourite. Its excellent position, almost midway between
Larne and the Causeway, affords every convenience for exploring
this very interesting coast at minimum expense and trouble. It
is picturesque in itself, and encircled by charming scenery, in
fact it commands, at a radius of five miles, all the prettiest glens
in Antrim, some of this county's pleasantest villages, and most
of its finest mountains.
It is, of course, for the "Glynns " or glens which open suc-
cessively into the bays of Waterfoot, Cushendall and Cushendun
that this district is most famed. Some of these are very finely
shaped and wooded, especially tlie valleys of tlie Glenarilf, and
of the stream falling from Trostan into Cushendall — or as the
Irish have it, Cush-oiui-dalla, the foot of the Dall river.
There is pleasant bathing — mostly alfresco — off the bay.
CUSHENDALL 821
Along tliis shore, between Cushendall and (JuslieiuUm, geologists will
notice the " Devonian " conglomerate rouks. " On the coast near Cushendall
the blocks of porphyry attain to a size of 3 or 4 feet in diameter ; and the
whole mass has its counterpart in the conglomerate of the coast of the pro-
montory of Kintyre." — Hull.
D'istaiices. — La,rne, 25i ; Red Bay, 2^ ; Cushendun, 5 ; Gleu-
ariff Falls, C| ; Ballycastle, 16.
Excursions. — Of several the most popular is certainly to
Glenariff Falls. The road goes (1) south, aud turns inland from
Waterfoot, ascending some 3^ miles under the lofty and escarped
side of Lurigethan, which rises on the right ; or (2) the longer
way may be taken to Parkmore Station [refr. room), and then
the short descent to the head of the glen. The best approach to
the Falls is by the Tea House, from which it is only a short step
to the first fall Ess na Crub. Ess ka Larach, the farther cas-
cade, is the finer of the two.
(Strangers should beware of the attempts of the cardrivers to insist on their
idea of the best route, and order the cars to meet them at the Tea House
and then continue the journey direct to Cushendall.)
Layde Churchyard. This queer, deserted old burying-ground lies about
IJ mile north along the coast lane that goes to Cushendun. V/ithin, on the
bank of a streamlet, is the ancient church in ruins, consisting of nave, chancel,
and the remnants of ;i west tower. These walls may perhaps be of 13th-
century workmanship, but there is little visible which may decide the date.
Outside the west end are the most interesting of the many graves belonging
to the great local family— the MacDonnells, Lords of the eight gly nns. Notice
the carvings on the modern cross to Dr. MacDonnell.
The nearest, or northern end of Lv,rigethan mountain, just
south-west of Cushendall, is well worth the easy climb. The
path to it strikes up from the Parkmore road. No visitor should
omit seeing the fine and extensive view from the plateau-like
top. We have also found grand views from the shajjely hill
called Ticvehulliagh, whose name may, perhaps, mean ' ' the hill-
side where the kine are milked " (?). The ancient road ascending
almost to the top of this, and the remains, probably of a camp,
near the summit support the notion that this hill is, like
Lurigethan, too striking a rock to have guarded these " glynns "
through the centuries without some military history.
There are not many other heights equally dry aud equally interesting in
Antrim. It "is not," as has been well said, "a mountaineer's country. . . .
It suggests driving, bicycling, picnics, good dinners and evening dress more
than knickers and hard work."
Glenarm and Garrou Tower are mentioned on pp. 318, 319.
Those who would see Ossian's Grave may find it after much
21
322 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
searching in the Glenaau Valley, but their only reward will be a
heap of crumbling stones. Time is better spent in getting to
the top of Tievc-ragh ("hill-side fort"), a green, breezy hillock
to the north, and reached by the direct lane to Cushendun.
Botanists are often seen a-hunting there.
From Cushendall the car road winds inland round Tieveraigh
and bends soon back to the coast, flanked by the gentle slopes of
Craig Top, until in 5 miles Cushendun is seen, snugly sheltered.
Cushendun {small inns) ought to be, but is not one of the
popular places on the coast. It is charmingly situated on a
pleasant bay, which is sheltered at both north and south ends
by rising ground, and has pretty scenery at its back. There is
no hotel worthy of the name nearer than Cushendall, and lodgings
are hard to find.
At the south end are some "conglomerate " rocks pierced with
caves. Visitors to Cushendun will recollect that the gifted
Irish writer "Moira O'Neill" long resided here. Mrs. S. 0.
Hall's descriptions of scenes and places near are well known to
readers oi An Unknown Counlri/, whilst the "wild work " enacted
near the old Castle, and through this district in the days of
Shane O'Neill is well told in Mr. Stephen Gwynne's Highways
and Byivays.
The roads from out and about the village zigzag and wind
in a curious way. At a short distance along that one which
twists itself out westward to Glendun Viaduct (3 miles), a
wood named Craigagh is passed on the right. At the corner
of this is a very uncommon wayside shrine or stone altar, much
bedecked by pious worshippers on certain festal days, and
adorned with a bit of ancient stone carving which has been
brought hither from some far church, — some say from the
Scottish lona.
For the direct route to Ballycastle we start on the above
road, and bear off to the right in about 2 miles. Cyclists will
find this the only feasible wheel road. But the coast road
aft'ords magnificent views, and though hilly is only 3^ miles
longer than the inland highway ; indeed we recommend that
the latter be taken at all costs for the sake of Runabay and Torr
Heads ; cycles can be sent on, or taken when you i-eturn.
Tubhsiea-lyA.ACKatiliiXii
BALLYCASTLE 323
This road along the coast rises northwards from the far end of
the little bay, and passes the scanty remnants of the old Castle.
From Runabay Head (3 miles) there are grand wide views of
coast, sea, and the far-away Scottish cliffs ; then 3 miles farther
is a lane (right) to the Coast Guard Station on Torr Head, which
is the nearest point to Kintyre, 13 miles away. At 3 miles be-
yond, the right-hand road goes off to Fair Head, described on
page 324, and then at the spirit-store at Ballyvoy (5 miles) the
main car road comes in on the left. From this it is 2J miles
into
BALLYCASTLE.
Bailwat Station. — Belfast and N. Co. R.
Hotels. — Marine, near sea ; Antrim Arms, in town ; Boyd Arms.
DisTA cES. — {rail) Belfast, 69| ; Ballyuioney, 16 ; Lame, 61i ; Coleraine, 24i.
(JJoad) Causeway, 13 ; Bushmills, 12 ; Cushendall, 16.
This "town of the stone fort " is divided into two sections, half
a mile apart ; the northern by the sea, a very pleasant " seaside,"
the southern, a small uninteresting market town — less pleasant,
though clean. It is quite one of the most popular watering-
places in Ireland, now pushing hard ahead to the front rank
behind its rivals Portrush and the more formidable Bray, not to
mention Kilkee and other southern places. In addition to the
attractions of its seaboard, it has around it, at each point of the
compass, great physical features of such unusual importance as
the Causeway Cliffs, Rathlin Island, Fair Head, and Knocklayd.
There is some breezy golf to be had on the links, a little
whipping on the Carey and Glenshesk rivers, and good cycling
along the two inland roads to Bushmills or the Causeway, and
to Cushendall.
Upon the old castle of Doonineeney, where " Sorley Boy" died,
the hand of time has been as destructive as upon much of the
great enterprise and efforts of Mr. Hugh Boyd. About 150 years
ago that gentleman spent money and energy in trying to make
Ballycastle a centre of industry. Collieries were started over
the coal measures between the town and Torr Head ; ironworks
were set agoing, and breweries and tanneries built. It is the too
common story of many industrial movements in this country, —
one to play the game, and many to look on !
324 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
The coal here is remarkable as being associated with basalt, and Mr. Bayd
only opened up once more the measures which were worked here undoubtedly
in very ancient times. Indeed the old coal mines are considered to be the
oldest in the kingdom. "In 1770 the miners discovered a complete gallery
driven many hundred yards into the bed of coal, branching into 36 chambers
dressed quite square and in a workmanlike manner." About this mine,
strange to say, no tradition now remains.
There are many points of geological interest in this district. To begin
with, we have the theory of well-known authorities that in all probability the
last volcanic eruptions took place between this and the Causeway (page 308).
Then not only do terraces of limestone gravel on the hiUs still remain "at
an elevation of 600 feet," and exhibit sea-shells of existing species which teU
of "colder conditions than those which obtain at present' ; but there is
reliable evidence that " the coast has here been raised," and at "the average
elevation of about 15 feet."l
The old ruins at "the foot of the Margy " — Bonamargy — are
those of the Abbey, probably built in the 15th or 16th century.
In the old buryinj-ground are the graves of "Sorley Boy" and
many of the MacDonnells of Antrim (see also Layde, p. 321).
Excursions.
Fair Head is about 5| miles eastward, and can be reached
by starting up the Carey Valley, and (1) following the inland
road towards Torr Head through Ballyvoy, and turning up the
hrst left-hand lane beyond that village.
(2) It can also be reached by pedestrians by following the shore road (which
later becomes a rough cart-track) as far as a small waterfall ; here the path
branches off up the course of the stream, which should be crossed at the top
of the fall. After climbing a steep slope a wall can be seen some distance to
the right, running at right angles to the stream ; following the line of this,
twenty minutes' walk across the heather will bring the tourist to the top of
the headlands.
At Fail' Head the Antrim coast rises to its highest point —
630 feet above the sea ; and these precipitous cliffs of columnar
basalt — the same rock as at the Causeway — are very grand. In
the wild confusion of the broken columns down on the shore
we have a good illustration of the destructive power of the sea —
"a Titanic breakwater which the waves of the sea have reared
up against their own advance."
1 Compare the traces found along the Scottish coast, of Kintyre, Rothesay,
Arran, and the Clyde, of an earlier beach raised as much as 25 feet (tee Hull,
Qeikie, etc.). See also p. 872.
MURLOUGH— RATHLIN ISLAND 325
Ages ago the glaciers did some hard and wonderful work here. In one
part we find abundant " strise,"— those ruts of the Ice King's chariot- wheels ;
and at the Ballycastle end of this lofty plateau, on the worn and rounded
bosses of basalt the story of the ice age is writ large. An interesting account
of all this is given by Dr. Hull, who finds that the three loughs on the Head
have been scooped out by the ice. " One of these little rock-basins is called
L. Cranagh, from the remarkable cranogue, or site of an old lake-dwelling,
which occurs near its centre. This cranogue is enclosed by a waU of well-
fitted stones nearly entire, and covered by lichens and a few dwarf trees."
Beyond the highest point, a short distance eastward, is the
Grey Man's Path, a narrow rock-track descending between precipi-
tous cliffs to the shore. Fine views of the faces of the cliffs
can be obtained from below, but the feeble-kneed will refrain.
Above the path hangs a natural bridge of basalt in the shape of
a fallen column. (See also Murlough excursion below. )
Mrs. S. C. Hall writes :— " The superstition of the Sea Kings " is the super-
stition of the folk hereabouts ; ' ' their ghosts came from out of the deep " ; and
amid this stupendous scenery "spirits of the old gigantic world congregate,
and the ' Grey Man ' of the North Sea stalks forth silently and alone up his
appropriate path to witness some mighty convulsion of nature."
Murlough is a lovely little bay 8 miles by road from Ballycastle
and well worth a visit. It can also be reached by extending the
walk along the cliffs from Fair Head. Good teas are provided at
Miss Clarke's cottage do^vn on the shore.
To Murlough {hy the shore). — For those who wish for a scramble
this is a good excursion. Follow the shore road to Fair Head
described above (2) as far as the "Waterfall, thence continue
round the foot of the cliffs to the Grey Man's Path (by which you
can climb to the top of Fair Head). Keeping on at the foot a
farther scramble v/ill bring you to Murlough. Keep as near as
possible the foot of the precipice, for over the rocks nearer the sea
large clumps of heather grow, quite concealing the holes betvreen
the rocks, down which the unwary may slip and meet with an
unpleasant accident.
Rathlin Island is often difficult to reach owing to the rough seas oflf this
coast, but owing to its fine cliffs and its associations with the great Bruce
is frequently ^'isited. The landing-place is at Church Bay, on its southern
shore, named after the church which is probably the successor of that
founded here thirteen centuries ago by St. Columba. It is about 6J miles
passage from Ballycastle to Church Bay ; and the island is 12 or 14 from the
Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. It is indeed but a continuation of the basaltic
formation of the Antrim coast, and, as it were, a link in that stony chain
which binds it with Scotland.i Rathlin is otherwise called Rachlin, Rachray,
1 See page SOS.
326 BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
or Raghery, and nearly half a dozen other names. Robert Bruce, in 1306,
during the wars between him and Baliol, fled to this island with 800 men
after his defeat at Perth, and " it was in the castle that stood on the east end
of Rachnay that Bruce, according to tradition, learnt his lesson from the six-
times-baffled spider." The incident is referred to in Scott's Tales of a Grand-
father. In the 10th century " Sorley Boy's" jieople were cut to pieces here,
and nearly a century later it was savagely swept bare by the swords of the
Campbells. The story of the one Irish maid spared and rescued by the one
gallant among the murderers is told in Gwynne's Highways and Byways.
DooN Point, at the south-east, exhibits columns of basalt of a peculiarly
curved form. " Many resemble the crooked trunks of trees, as if they had
not been firm enough to stand upright, and had bent over and cooled in that
position ; and others appear as if thrust endwise into the mountain."
The cliffs along the north coast of the island are unusually lofty, varying
from 214 feet at the east to nearly 500 feet at the north-west point, Slievea-
carn, over Loughnanskan. The latter is one of four loughlets. The farming
is fair and limestone quarries give employment to a number of men. The
island boasts of several hundreds of inhabitants, and is connected with the
mainland by wireless telegraphy.
Knocklayd ( " the hill of breadth ") lies duo south of Ballycastle,
in shape an inverted dish. Capecastle Station (3 miles) makes
a good starting-place for the ascent. In the Glenshesk valley
that bounds its eastern slopes may often bo seen the curious turf-
carts with block -wheels peculiar to this and a fevp other districts.
Gobban Saer's Castle also stands on a hillock in the valley, If
mile up above Ballycastle bridge ; it is a small, ruined, oblong
chamber, possibly an old church. Tradition says that Gobban
Saer, whose name means "smith-carpenter," was the great
architect of early daj'^s, and the builder of the Cathedral at Glen-
dalough. Possibly the church near Tralee called Kil-Gobban
may have some connection with the same (?).
Cyclists will find fair surfaces in Glenshesk valley, and also on the road to
Annoy and Ballymoney under the W. side of Knocklayd.
Kenbane (White Head) is a fine chalk ridge contrasting well with the
basaltic rock around it. It runs out into the sea about 3 miles west of
Ballycastle, and has the remains of an old castle upon it.
At Armoy, 6 miles from Ballycastle, is a well-preserved round
tower, 53 ft. high and 47^ feet in circumference. The door (in
Hiberno-Romanes(jue style) is the only opening, and 1 ft. 7 in.
wide and 5 ft. 9 in. high. The walls are of mica slate, care-
fully prepared, each stone being chiselled to suit the curve. The
wall is 3 ft. 5 in. thick, the interior diameter is 8 ft. 2 in. and
it does not vary fi'ora this dimension. The tower was originally
40 ft. higher.
CARRICK-A-REDE 327
Between Ballycasth and The Causeway the best road for
cyclists is the inland Bushmills road ; total distance 15 miles.
But whether you choose this road and turn off right beyond the
first bog, or take the coast road throughout, in spite of its
bad beginning, be sure to see Carrick-a-Rede bridge. It is
about 5 miles from Ballycastle, lying just off the coast road, and
a little way short of Ballintoy. The request for a guide at the
village will bring you a dozen— generally of very tender years ;
but, unless you have a decidedly good "nerve" for awkward
positions, you will be wise to despatch a youngster to summon
his father. The bridge is of ropes ; and if a fair wind be up it
is liable to swing considerably. We were told that the day be-
fore our arrival a fond couple approached the ropes, but the timid
lover had lost his courage as well as his heart, and 'Arriet put
him out of countenance by boldly performing the double passage
in his stead.
The salmon-fisliery off the island is of great consequence, and this bridge
owes its existence entirely to local fishermen, who by this means cross over
to the Carrick, or rock, during the summer to intercept the salmon ; they
withdraw the bridge on the approach of winter. In the cliff near this island
is a cave "about 30 feet in height, formed entirely of columnar basalt, of
which the bases appear to have been removed, so that the unsupported poly-
gonal columns compose Jhe cave."
Three miles farther west the road curves round White Park
Bay, streaked with a line of white sand, and supplying many a
"specimen " to the Causeway guides. Then follow Dunseveriek
Castle, Bengore Head, Pleaskin, and the rest of the wonders of
these grim cliffs, which are described on pages 312-315.
The eight miles between the Causeway hotels and Portrush
are covered by the electric tram. And from the latter town
(page 302), the B. and N. Co. Railway runs round 40 miles
of interesting coast to Londonderry, at the head of Lough
Foyle, through Coleraine, Castle Rock, Magilligan, and Limavady
Junction {done the reverse way, page 334).
FROM ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY BY
LONDONDERRY, COLERAINE, AND PORTRUSH.
Distances.— Omagh, 26 miles ; Strabane, 45 ; Londonderry, 59 ; Coleraine, 93 ;
Portrush, 99 ; Causeway, 10i5.
The line of railway between Enniskillen and Portrush affords
facilities to tourists who desire to reach the Giant's Causeway
328 ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
from the midland or western districts of Ireland, The best
scenery along this line is between Omagh and Strabane, and the
most interesting town to the tourist is Newtownstewart.
Soon after leaving Enniskillen, the line enters the county of
Tyrone, formerly the territory of the O'Neills, and from them
called Hy NeUia, till the rebellion of the chief in 1597, and
"the plantation of Ulster" by James I.
We pass at 8J miles Bundoran Junction, where the left-hand
branch leaves for Lough Erne and Bundoran, described in
another section.
Omagh (pop. 4039 ; Hotels : White Hart ; Royal Arms), the
county town, in the centre of a very much improved district, has
been almost entirely rebuilt since 1743, in which year it was
destroyed by fire. It stands just below the confluence of the
higher streams which here mingle in one — the Shrule, the upper
part of the river which under the name of the Foyle runs under
the quays of 'Derry. From Omagh the line runs through the
best part of the journey, the pleasant valleys of the Shrule and
Mourne to Newtownstewart and Strabane.
Then after passing between the hill called Bessy Bell, on the
left, and its sister height, Mary Gray, on the right, we reach (36
miles)
Newtownstewart (pop. 1171 ; Hotel: Abercorn Arms), a finely
situated village, the most interesting objects in which are the
ancient bridgn, and the house in which James II. slept on his
way to Londonderry. Near the town is Baron's Court, the noble
seat of the Duke of Abercorn. Ardstraw is only a few miles
away, where in the 6th century the saintly Kevin of Glenda-
lough received his education from his uncle. Bishop Eugene {see
page 59, in Eastern Section).
Still following the valley of the river, which here for some
miles is called the Mourac, the scenery on the right gets more
interesting as the tops of Sawel and Meenard, the highest points
of the ' ' Sperrin Hills " — each over 2000 feet — rise in the distance.
When the Donegal Railway goes away on our left toM'ards the
coast, we enter (45 miles)
Strabane (pop. 5013 ; Hotels : Abercorn Arms ; Commercial),
at the junction of the Mourne and the Finn, celebrated for its
Ilax and grain markets, held weekly. The tourist will find
L>
fTi ii.lkuih
; A^^
I I
Id I
0 I. \ A y
LONDONDERRY 329
little to detain him, and will be surprised at the insignificant
appearance of Lifford — the town on the other side of the
bridge — if he recollects that this latter is the county town of
Donegal.
Soon after leaving Strabane the stream — now the Foyle —
swells into an important river, and a few miles below its double
bend, between St. Johnston and Carrigans, winds amid pleasant
country into the south end of
LONDONDERRY.
Hotels.— Imperial ; City ; Jury's ; Northern Counties, Ulster.
Distances (Rail).— Dublin, 175J ; Belfast, 101 ; Ballycastle, GO ; Portrush, 40 ;
Coleraine, 34 ; Enniskillen, 59 ; Letterkenny, 25 ; Donegal, 46i.
(Road).— Belfast, 81 ; Ballycastle, 48 ; Causeway, 41 ; Maliu Head, 40 ;
Buncrana, 14 ; Bosapeuna, 44J ; Donegal, 44.
Steamers.— To BelfaM and Dublin, every Monday ; Fleetwood, Friday ; Glasgow,
daily except Sunday ; Morecamhe, Monday and Tliursday.
Pop.— 40,000.
" Derry," as it is generally known to Ulstermen, is one of the
prosperous-looking towns of Ireland. It is bright and clean ;
and its main thoroughfares wear a decidedly business-like air.
As Donegal city is the southern gate for the Donegal coast route,
so Derry is the entrance at the north to that part of the country.
For cyclists and others to whom prevailing winds are of para-
mount importance, it forms a less favourable starting-place to the
scenery of the highlands of the north-west than its sister town
at the southern portal.
The two leading events in the history of the city before the
great siege were marked by a change of name. Its original
name was " Derry-Calgagh "• — the Oak-wood of Galgacus. But
when St. Columba, or Columbkille, had won over the hearts of
the wild Irish whose huts and wigwams first marked out the
site of the city that was to be, he obtained permission in 546 to
build his Abbey here ; and so vital an element in the life of the
little town was the monastery which grew up round the saint's
church that the place gradually came to be called "Derry-
330 ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
Columcille. " Then came the deadly Dane, swooping down upon
this and other Foyle settlements and glutting his savage appetite
for plunder. Out of the ruins he left arose in 1164 the "Great
Abbey " of Bishop O'Brolchain, only, however, to wait until it
fell in its turn before the de&ti'uctive hands of Docwra's troops
some four centuries after. The reign of James the First brought
the Great Confiscation and many radical changes.
Justifying himself with tlie excuse that the treason of two northern earls
demanded punishment, James confiscated the counties of Donegal, Derry,
Tyrone, Fermanagh, Cavan, and Armagh. "Ulster was planted with a
thoroughly Protestant and anti-Irish colony of English and Scotch adven-
turers, and the Irish were driven away." Twelve City of London Companies
bought great tracts of land in Derry, and six of these — the Mercers, Salters,
Skinners, Ironmongers, Fishmongers, and Drapers— still retain much of the
property thus acquired.
By James's charter to the landlords (1613) the prefix of
"Columb" was replaced by that of the far-off English Metropolis,
and hence the third change and present form of the city's name.
The horrors of the Gromwellian Settlement, which English-
men know only too well, need not here be chronicled ; and
a full account of the memorable siege of 1689 would exceed our
limits. Suflice it to say that he who will may read it in Mac-
aulay's graphic description, and may there learu how the vast
crowd of starved and dying Protestants bravely held their city
through 105 days of ghastly suffering against the unsuccessful
attack of James the Second's army.
Probably wishing to establish a useful line of communication between
Ulster and Scotland, James II. decided to make Londonderry his own, but
the demand of the Earl of Antrim at tlie Ferry Gate for admission met with
the flat refusal of tliirleen Apprentice Boys, who suddenly took the decision
into their own hands, and banged down the portcullis. After the treacher-
ous Lundy had ended his dishonourable governorship by making his escape
to the enemy — according to tradition, by means of a pear-tree near the
walls— the inhabitants entrusted the command to a remarkable clergyman,
the Rev. George Walker, with Baker and Murray. For a time James him-
self sat before the walls, but, wearied by the " obstinate wretches," he
retired, and then began the hottest part of the struggle. Provisions ran
short, and in their desperate pliglit the enfeebled soldiers and civilians
seized upon dogs, cats, and even mice and rats — anything that could be
made into food. The inevitable result was disease, and '2000 are said to
have perished chielly owing to this cause. For nearly two months the
hungry inhabitants saw their ships filled with food lying at anchor out of
their reach ; this was the small fleet of Major-Gcueral Eirke. But at last
relief came, and after the Mountjoy had burst the boom that had been laid
LONDONDERRY 331
across the Foyle, the famished garrison saw with mad joy that boat and the
Phcenix pass the barrier and sail up to the walls. " High above the thunder
of the Irish guns arose the clamour of the cathedral bells," and the ramparts
blazed with bonfires.
Architecturally the city cannot boast of high attractions, but
no visitor can fail to be interested in the scene of the memorable
siege, the walls, the cathedral, and the buildings which all stood
so fierce a fire.
An excellent bird's-eye panorama may be had from Corrody
Hill, opposite the south end, not only of Derry itself but of the
suiTounding country and the Lough. It was here that the
French batteries were planted during the siege, and from this
point all the story of that great struggle can be studied. There
is also a most extensive view from the summit of the cathedral
spire, and from the Walker monument.
Columba's church disappeared early; and both the "Great
Church," and the church of a Dominican monastery founded in
1274, were demolished in 1600 to supply materials for fortifying
the city. These foi-tifications were finally completed in 1618, at
a cost of £9000. The Walls still remain entire, and are kept
in good preservation as a promenade. Round this (not quite a
mile) strangers should walk, as they will then get a good view
of all parts of the city.
The four original gates were called the Bishop's Gate (south),
Ship Quay Gate (north), the New Gate (east), and the Ferry
Port or Ferry Gate ; two others, commonly called the New Gate
and the Castle Gate, were subsequently added. Butcher's Gate
is on the west side ; and Bishop's Gate is now a triumphal arch,
erected to the memory of William IIL in 1789.
The circuit of the walls may be well begun near the Ship Quay
Gate, where the northern ramparts faced down the Foyle. From
here the besieged garrison saw the ships v»-hich, stopped by the
" Boom," could not bring up the provisions to the starving
citizens. Turning to the right, and away from the river, and
noticing the outlying buildings of the town, especially the S.O.
Cathedral, you pass the Butcher Gate, and, soon after, "a lofty
pillar rising from a bastion which bore during many weeks the
heaviest fire of the enemy, seen far up and down the Foyle. On
the summit is the Statue of Walker, such as when, in the last
and most terrible emergency, his eloquence roused the fainting
courage of his brethren. In one hand he grasps a Bible ; the
332 ENNISKILLEN TO THE CxIANT'S CAUSEWAY
other, pointing down the river, ssems to direct the eyes of his
fami^ihed audience to the English topmasts in the distant Lay "
{Macaiclay).
Tlie Inscription tells how Walker "gallantly defended the city . . . and
by such valiant conduct in numerous sorties, and by patiently enduring
extreme privations and sufferings, successfully resisted the besiegers."
This was erected in 1828, and near it are four of the guns used
in the siege. It is beside this statue and pillar that the " 'Pren-
tice Boys" of Derry celebrate annually, on the 18th December,
the shutting of the gates against King James, and burn an effigy
of the traitor Lundy. On the 12th August they commemorate
the re-opening of the gates and the raising of the siege.
At the double Bastion, beyond, where the ramparts turn to
the left, is the great gun " Roaring Meg," so called from the loyal
fashion in which she gave voice to her defence.
At Bishop's Gate descend to Bishop Street, for this is the
most imposing part of the city. On the right is the Court
House, and behind it
The Cathedral. This, one of the most interesting though
not of the most handsome churches of Ireland, was built in
Charles the First's reign, about 56 years before the great siege,
and contains in its tower bells originally presented bj' that
monarch. It stands over an ancient sally-port once connected
with the town ramparts ; and the tower commands fine views of
the city and neighbourhood, which should certainly be seen.
The extension at the chancel end — evidently contemplated by
the founders, as the old courses of masonry were discovered
already laid for the foundation — and certain alterations carried
out in accordance with the original design have somewhat trans-
formed the building.
AVithin the entrance door is a curious wall-tablet containing
in its inscription the date 1633, and the quaint words : —
If stones covld speake
Then Lond(jns prayse
Shovld sovnde who
Bvilt this chvrch and
Cittie from the grovnde
Vaughan a ED
Near this is the historic shell sent into the city from General
Hamilton during the siege. It contained the general's terms of
LONDONDERRY 333
surrender, and drew from the garrison the famous reply "No
Surrender. "
The Bisho2}'s Throne, containing Archbishop Bramhall's chair,
at the east end of the nave, should be noticed, as well as the
Banners. The latter were taken from the French troops during
the siege — the staffs and metal work alone being original.
There is a story that the wood of the front of the organ was, like
that at Trinity College, Dublin, from a wrecked Spanish ship,
but this must be taken aim grano.
Instead of, or after completing the round of the walls along
the eastern side, the centre of the city — called here as in many
other Irish towns " The Diamond " — should be seen.
St. Eugene s R.C. Cathedral (modern) lies on the western side
of the town, and on the same side, in the slummy "St. Columb's
Wells," are St Columb's Stone and TVell.
St Columbkill's College, a Roman Catholic Institution in
Bishop Street, was originally built by the fourth Earl of
Bristol, Bishop of Derry, as a country mansion.
About 1 mile from the city is the Magee Presbytekian
College, a handsome building situated in beautiful grounds
overlooking the Foyle. The college was erected and endowed
by a bequest of £20,000, left by Mrs. Magee of Dublin, supple-
mented by other large contributions. The main purpose of the
college is the training of Irish Presbyterian ministers, but it also
includes complete departments of art and theology. By Act of
Parliament the theological professors of this college, with those
of the Presbyterian College, Belfast, form the Presbyterian
Faculty of Divinity for the conferring of degrees.
The town is an important seat of the linen manufacture, but
the staple is shirt-making, which employs more than 20,000
hands, mostly female. It also possesses shipbuilding yards,
iron foundries, distilleries, and breweries. The harboitr is
commodious, and a very large coasting trade is cai-ried on.
There is regular steam communication with Glasgow and several
English ports. The Allan and the Anchor Lines of Atlantic
steamers call at Moville, where they are met by a steam tender
from Londonderry.
About 3 miles below the bridge is Boom Hall, on the left
bank of the river. In the grounds can still be seen the stone
to which was tied the cable which held up the " Boom " of the
besiegers {see above, page 330). Culmore Fort, the destruction
of which was a great event of this stirring time, is on the oppo-
site shore, and 3 miles farther down.
334 ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
EXCURSIONS FROM LONDONDERRY
I. TO PORTRUSH AND THE CAUSEWAY (41 miles).
For a considerable distance the railway line lies along the
south-east shore of Lough Foyle, a triangular arm of the sea about
15 miles long by 10 wide, with extensive sandbanks on the sides,
and a large sandy island, Shell Island, in its centre.
Soon after passing Carrichue, a branch line about 21 miles
in length leads from Limavady Junction to Limavady, formerly
Newtonlimavady (pop. 2796 ; Hotel: Alexander Arms), a clean
and well-built town of great antiquity, once the residence of the
celebrated Irish chieftains the O'Cahans, whose castle at the
head of a romantic glen was called Limavady or the Dog's
Leap.
Every visitor here, of course, will have read Thackeray's
amusing lines upon " Peg " —
Beauty is not rare
lu the land of Paddy,
Fair beyond compare
Is Peg of Limavaddy.
Citizen or squire,
Tory, Wliig, or Radi-
cal would all desire
Peg of Limavaddy.
But they may not recognise in the present hostelry that poet's
"inn," "the humble pinthouse. Where you may procure Whiskey
and potatoes."
From the above Junction the line curves round the foot of
Binevenagh Cliff (1235 feet), which is a splendid view-point and
quite worth a climb. Away on the left the flat triangular
Strand of Magilligan stretches towards Inishowen Head, thus
nearly land-locking the Foyle.
At Bellarena, the seat of the late Sir Frederick Heygate,
Bart., the scenery on the right becomes more picturesque, the
cliff rising to a considerable height overhead. Between Bell-
arena and Magilligan the clitt's are especially fine, though they
continue all tlie way to Downhill, where stands the mansion of
Sir H. Hervey Bruce, Bart., erected by his kinsman, the late
GRIANAN OF AILEACH 335
Eaii of Bristol, when Bishop of Derry. Some years ago it was
accidentally burned, but it has since been rebuilt. The line now
lies along the west side of the river Bann to Coleraine (see page
301).
II. THE GRIANAN OF AILEACH.
The Grianan of Aileach (5i miles ; nearest station, Bridge
End) is to the North of Ireland what Dun Aengus is to the Aran
Isles and Staigue Fort is to Kerry ; it is one of the finest speci-
mens of early forts in our country (see p. 211, Galway Section).
On the hill-top, 800 feet above the sea, there still stands to-day
the circular wall which, according to tradition, once enclosed the
palace of the Hy-Niall princes. Those were the sons and grand-
sons of King Niall of the Nine Hostages, who was overlord of
the North of Ireland — or, as it was called later, "Ulidia" or
Ulster — in the fourth century. It may have been built even at
an earlier date.
The name means ' ' The Palace of the Stone Fort, " but it is now
so bare a ruin that it derives all its interest from the romantic
legends which make it the home of kings and the tomb of
sleeping warriors.
One old story tells how beneath this hoary cashd, which
" Smiles on the valleys of green Inishowen,"
sleeps a troop of horsemen of Hugh O'Neil. There will they lie bewtched
in sleep until a call to arras on behalf of their distressful country shall some
day break the spell. Once only, we are told, has a bold adventurer inter-
rupted their long slumber. Fully armed, each horseman was seen lying by
his steed, bridle in hand. At last one awoke with the cry, "Is the time
come?" but receiving no answer from the terrified intruder, he fell back
again asleep. (See 0' DonnvoM.)
The fort has only one entrance, is surrounded by three con-
centric circles, and contains a small oblong ruin, which is
probably of later date.
III. INISHOWEN HEAD
[24 miles ; steamer to Moville (18 miles) every week-day ; mail car every
week-day morning and afternoon to Moville.]
On the west side of the upper end of Lough Foyle is the
village of Muff, and continuing on the side of the lough, in the
336 ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
shallow saudbauks of which uumerous wadiiig and swimming
birds are constantly disporting themselves, we see on the left
Eskaheen (1377 feet) and Crockglass (1295 feet), and before us
the village of Cairowkeel, north of which the road is enlivened
by uumerous summer residences. White Castle was once a seat
of the Careys, who now live at Castle Carey, a few miles nearer
Moville. Red Castle, formerly the seat of the O'Doherty clan,
is now the property of the Hon. Ernest Cochran. The property
is extensive, with good fishing and sporting rights.
Speakingof the west side of Lough Foyle, Sir Walter Scott says : "Nothing
can Vie more favourable than this specimen of Ireland — a beautiful variety of
cultivated slopes, intermixed with banks of wood ; rocks skirted with a
distant ridge of heathy hills, watered by various brooks ; the glens or banks
being in general planted or covered with copse."
Moville (18 miles ; pop. 1200 ; Hotel : M'Connell's) is a clean,
pleasant town, finely sheltered by high hills from the western
gales and possessing a good beach for bathing, where the American
mail steamers of the Anchor and Allan Lines stop once a week
on their way between Glasgow and New York. An electric rail-
way is being built from Londonderry to Moville, with a generat-
ing station at Carrowkeel, the water-power being supplied from
Caboy Glen, close at hand. A line of steamers runs between
Derry and Moville.
It is a pleasant run of 3 miles along the Wash to Green Castle
{Hotel), where are the remains of the old " castle " of De Burgo,
an early fortress reminding us of the contemporary tower guard-
ing the Green Castle of Carlingford Lough.
Then the sea views stretch away eastwards as far as Portrush
and the Causeway Cliffs, and the long sandy promontory of
Macgilligan is left behind as Ave near
Inisho'wen Head (24 miles) and its two lighthouses. From
this head, and still better from the hill behind it — Crockalaghta,
567 feet high, and an outer foot of Crocknasmug — is obtained
a fine view of the coasts of Londonderry and Antrim. Port-
stewart, Portrush, the Skerries and Benbane Head near the
Causeway can all be seen. The Slieveacarn clitf of Rathlin
Island rises to 447 feet (Inishowen Head is 300 feet), but it is
probably too far to be seen, being 27 miles away.
For excursions through this peninsula to Culdaif, Malin Head
and Buncrana, and a note on the new railway, see p. 371.
THE DONEGAL HIGHLANDS.
Donegal is indeed a land of intermittent beauty. Here and
there you have a noble mountain-group, a striking and graceful
peak, or some mighty sea-cliff, rich in every tint of nature.
You will find fair loughs deep set amid encircling hills, and
wild, green glens dipping to the sea, dotted sometimes with
rude grey stones that tell of the early missionaries and their art.
A district so varied, with both surface and sea-coast of such
unusually broken character, cannot fail to supply the tourist
with many interesting features. But though occasionally those
features are concentrated, as, for instance, around the Gweedore
loughs, one must often be prepared to pass over intervening
stretches of comparatively dull country — open canvas, as it
were, between the pictures of the panorama. The attractions
of the latter pictures, however, are perhaps enhanced by the
difficulty of getting at them ; therefore let not the Londoner,
accustomed to the rush of "the Underground" and the City
'Bus, fight shy of some new experiences, but believe our assur-
ances that, in spite of these characteristics, he will find in the
Wild Highlands of the North-West much to see and enjoy.
The best scenery in the southern part of the country will be
found about the coast between Slieve League and Slieve Tooey,
the little-known Blue Stack Mountains, or around Glengesh and
Lough Finn. For this part Carrick, Glencolumbkille, Ardara,
and perhaps Killybegs make good headquarters. Errigal, iu
the north-west district, is the central point of a fine group of
mountains which can be well explored from Gweedore, or, in a
less degree, from Gartan Lough. Horn Head, guarding Sheep-
haven, offers delightful rambles near Dunfanaghy, whilst the
hotels of Rosapenna, Portsalon and Buncrana are drawiug in-
creasing numbers to the interesting sea-lough scenery of Mulroy
22
338 THE DONEGAL HIGHLANDS
Bay and Lough Swilly. The last-named hostehy is also a good
headquarters for those who would climb Slieve Snacht or the
hills and headlands of Inishowen.
For the cyclist there are two facts of importance : the roads
generally throughout the district have a good surface, and
though some nasty hills may be found, as at Glengesh and
Greeslough, the riding on the whole comes second only to that
in Kerry and Connemara. On the other hand, the direction of
the M'ind ^vill become as serious a matter of consideration as
when going a-fishing. The prevailing wind comes in from the
south-west, and often with tremendous force, as we have found
to our cost. It is, therefore, obvious that the wise "wheeler"
is he who starts the tour from the southern end.
The winds, though strong, are, as a rule, like the climate of
this western coast, quite warm and soft ; and the tourist who
remembers that Ireland is on the same latitude as the tracts of
perpetual snow in Labrador, will be as much struck with this as
when he has fu-st found the arbutus blooming in Kerry with a
luxuriance no less than it has in Portugal. The explanation
will be found in the Gulf Stream, whose heated waters wash all
these western shores on their journey from Mexico to the Nord
Cap.
"Ever-showered- upon Donegal" is the name given to the
country by a well-known fisherman. And, indeed, the proximity
to the Atlantic accounts not only for the broken character of
these coasts, but also for the depth of rainfall. For this is the
first barrier touched by the rain -clouds travelling eastward.
Fortunately for the reputation of English and Continental rain-
gauges, the great bulk of the clouds is exhausted before reaching
Great Britain.
In its w-ealtli of mountaina Donegal is to the north-west what
Connaught and Kerry are to the west and south-west ; whilst
to the keen mountaineer it offers a field which is of far wider
extent, and contains "climbs" of hardly less interest than the
Mournes in County Down. A glance at the map shows the
principal groups lying at the four ends, as it were, of an
irregular X. Errigal and the heiglits round the Poisoned
Glen in the north-west, and to the south-east the Blue Stacks,
Slieve League overlooking Gal way Bay, and north-east, in Inish-
owen, Slieve Snacht and its companions.
The geologist will find tliat these mountains belong generally
fff
THE DONEGAL HIGHLANDS
339
K) the Lower Silurian foniuition, and are of an age and character
<.-
>^^ similar to those of the West Gahvay and Mayo Highlands. He
I ^ will haidly need to be reminded that the rocks throughout
. «r Donegal are the oldest rocks in Ireland, "unless wo suppose
^ the existence of a still earlier range formed of the Arch»an
ij rocks of South Donegal and Tyrone." Granite appears chiefly
in the triangular district between Lough Veagh, the Bloody
^ Foreland and Gweebarra Bay, including "The Rosses."
i Round towers, elsewhere so common, are hard to find west of
• 4 the Foyle river, but the archssologist will take heart on hearing
ts^. Dr. MacDevitt's statement that "in early remains Donegal is
'^ unsurpassed " (!).
s Lastly, we bid the fisherman come to a country which is
^pre-eminently noted as affording good sport, but with two words
J^ of caution. He will find the spring not so good a season here as
the summer and autumn. If, again, he is favoured with several
I good seasons consecutively he will be lucky.
Although Bundoran is practically outside the "Highlands"
■^we include it among the fisheries of the north-west. Near it
^are the two rivers Drowes and Bradoge and Lough Melvin, all
!^ three well known to fishers. Ballyshannon also attracts anglers,
"-• and in Lough Eske and some rivers in the neighbourhood of
1^ Donegal town (p. 344) salmon, trout and char can be had.
tx West of this are some rivers running into Tawny Bay, Glen
and Maghera, which afi'ord fair sport. For these Carrick,
Glen and Ardara are good centres,
Dungloe was once the "Ultima Thule" of anglers, and a few
years back, before the recent invasion of fishing-rods, some
O splendid seasons were recorded. Loughs in scores surround it
(p. 357). Farther north is Gweedore, with a venerable reputa-
tion. Between this and Loch Swilly the fisherman should whip
Lough Veagh and its river, Gartan Lough, and the Lannan,
which runs into Kilmacrennan (p. 355). If you are staying at
Rathmelton, try Lough Fern or the streams falling into Mulroy
Bay, whicli can also be reached from Portsalon and Rosapenna,
The more remote Falcarragh has accommodation for those who
experiment on Lough Lagha and the neighbouring waters.
5
V
It is an interesting fact that as late as 1830 the Red Deer (Cervus elephas)
"wandered amongst the wilds of Donegal.
;^ district, but seems to have left the north
•5^ forests."
It still siu vives in the Killamey
'owing to the destructon of the
THE DONEGAL COAST
(a) From the South
1. ENNISKILLEN TO BALLYSHANNON AND DONEGAL
The distance between Dublin and Enuiskilleu by the Gt. Northern PUiil-
way is covered by a good train service ; and by starting from the city
at 6 A.M. you can reach Enniskillen, at the south end of Lough Erne, in
4 hours, travelling by Dundalk and Clones. You will find there the
Lough Erne stiamer waiting.
Cyclists will of course take the South Shore road along Lough
Erne to Ballyshannon, noting the view at Ely Lodge. But for
others, the best way, by far, will be down the lough by steamer
{see pink pages), A pleasant two hours' blow on what is con-
stantly— but we think foolishly^called the "Irish Lucerne"
brings you to Castle Caldwell station, where you catch a
special train to Ballyshannon, described in the Galway Section,
p. 2.50.
Those who must hurry the whole way from Enniskillen may do so by train.
They may change at Bundoran Junction (8 m.) into the same train wliich meets
the steamer at tlie otlier end of the lough. The scenery is dull.
Anglers will find good centres at Bundoran or Ballyshannon.
From both they can reach Lough Melvin, famous for its salmon
and "gillaroo," or try for grilse in the Kilcoo river above it.
The Drowes river near Bundoran aifords trout-fishiiig, and the
Erne, by Ballyshannon, contains trout, gillaroo and salmon.
Lough Derg can easily be reached from Pettigo station.
In Lough Derg is Saint's Island, on which Davoc, the follower of St.
Patrick, founded a famous monaster)^, which for fourteen centuries has for
the pious remained a celebrated centre of pilgrimages.
The story runs tliat St. Patrick in his solitary devotions here obtained in
answer to prayer a vision of the souls iu Purgatory. As he was praying,
OMAGH AND STRABANE TO DONEGAL 341
" lo ! before his heaveii-touched fancy the regious of Purgatory sprang into
existence, and he saw the souls of millious undergoing the process of
purification. ... St. Patrick, awed by the vision, departed from the cave,
and ordered that henceforth tlie island should be a terrestrial Purgatory,
where sinners could wash off all their sins by prayer and fasting" (ilfac-
Devilt).
The spot is still frequented by hundreds of pilgrims, who between June
15th and August come to spend their annual "retreat" at St. Patrick's
Purgatory.
Between Ballyshaunon and Donegal town there is no rail,
although one is (1904) in course of construction, but a fair cycling
road of 14^ miles unites them, and a car which leaves Bally-
shannon in the late afternoon does the journey in 2 hours {see
pink pages).
2. OMAGH AND STRABANE TO DONEGAL.
Another route for reaching Donegal town by railway through-
out is that taken by the G. Northern Railway through Porta-
down and Omagh to Strabane, from which the Donegal railway
extends westwards 32 miles to Donegal station.
This passes through pleasant country along the upper Shrule
river between Omagh (p. 328) and Strabane, but the most
interesting section is along the latter part of the journey.
On the direct road between Strabane and Letterkenny, 6 miles from the
former, is Raphoe (formerly Bath-Both), "one of the oldest towns in Ireland,"
and distinguished as giving part of the name to the diocese of Derry and
Raphoe. The 18th-century Cathedral probably stands on the foundations of
the early church which Adamnan built here in the 7th century to give larger
accommodation for the monastery founded by St. Columba.
From Strabane (p. 328) the line keeps close by the stream of
the Finn, and ascends the valley which was the scene of many a
desperate encounter between the armies of the O'Donnells and
the O'Neils in the 15th and 16th centuries, to Stranorlar (14 m. ;
Hotel : Queen's Arm), the sister town of Ballyhofey, on the other
side of the river {Hotels: Magee's, M'Glinchy's).
From Stranorlar a northern branch of the Donegal railway continues up
the valley of the Finn, a wild country of no great interest, with the " Blue
Stacks " away on the left and Cark Mountain on the right ; and climbing to
Fimitown station, on Lough Finn, passes under the shoulder of Aghla
Mountain (left) and so down to Glenties (21 m. ; see p. 3.53).
342 THE DONEGAL COAST
By this uarrow-gauga line the central section of the " Donegal Tour" may
be struck without doing the circular journey (57 miles) between Donegal and
Glenties. But as this cuts out the beauties of Slieve League and its neigh-
bouring coasts, this is not recommended if you are making your first plunge
into the country.
Leaving Stranorlar station we turn a curve and then face the
Blue Stack mountains, the highest points, with "Blue Stack"
(2219), their chief summit, lying on the right. The rail climbs
a dull valley to Lough Mourne. Less than 2 miles beyond is
the top of Bamesmore Gap, the principal pass through this
group of mountains. Near the top are some ancient "Danish "
stone forts, and Rapin's Castle. The scenery improves as the
line descends within view of the green shores of Lough Eask, on
the right.
The cycling over this pass is the only troublesome bit of the
otherwise satisfactory road between Strabane and Donegal, a
distance of 33 miles.
3. LETTERKENNY TO SOUTH DONEGAL.
Cyclists who start from Londonderry and ride through
Newton Cunningham to Letterkenny (a run of 20 miles) to
enter Donegal by this route, will find moderately good roads
throughout.
A railway 25 miles in length goes from Derry through
Junction (whence a short northern branch turns off to Buncrana)
to
LETTERKENNY.
Railway Stations.— L'Derry and Lough Swilly Railway Company at the
eastern, or Lough Swilly end of town.
Hotel. — Hegarty 's.
Cars.— See pink pages.
Letterkenny has attraction for the man of business rather
than the tourist. Its single thoroughfare, and the presence of
the large asylum, to say nothing of the workhouse, give it a
somewhat oppressive air. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, on the
other hand, dominating all from its high position, is to be an
imposing modern building ; and tlie connection which the town
has with the history of T. Wolfe Tone is interesting.
LETTERKENNY 343
In tlie fight off Toiy Island in '98 between Warren's ships and the French,
Wolfe Tone was on board the Hoche commanding one of the batteries. The
engagement lasted six hours and he fought with desperation. " When the
Hoclie struck and was taken into Lough Swilly the prisoners were marched
to Letterkenny. Tlie officers, amongst whom Tone passed for a Frenchman,
were invited to breakfast at Lord Cavan's. One of the guests, recognising
Tone, addressed him by name, and denounced him to the host."
Distances (BaiO.— Dublin, 188; Belfast, 125; Derry, 25; Bunerana, 25;
Strabane, 3;'^ ; Stranorlar, 53J ; Glenties, 78 ; Donegal, 71^-.
(CycUng).~J)eTTy, 20; Strabane, 15; Stranorlar, 24; Glenties, 27;
Ardara, 32 ; Donegal, 42 ; Gweedore, 26 ; Dunfanaghy, 20 ; Rosapenna,
24 ; Milford, 13 ; Ramelton, 7 ; Bunerana, 24.
For the routes from Letterkenny to northern Donegal see
p. 372.
To the southern part of the country cyclists can go either
(a) through Pluck and Raphoe to Stranorlar (24 miles), and
thence over Barnesmore Gap to Donegal (42 miles, p. 342) ;
or (fe) up the higher Swilly to its source near MeenaboU Hill,
and crossing the pass there (780 feet) by a good road, descend
by the side of the Light Railway and Lough Finn to Glenties
(27 miles) and Ardara (32 miles) ; see p. 352. The similar
quality of both the road and scenery leave little to choose
between these two routes.
DONEGAL.
Hotels.— Ai-au Arms ; Coinmerciul.
Cars. — See pinh pages.
Pop.— 1214.
Dun-nan Gal — " the Fort of the Stranger " — owes its rise and
fame to two ladies, Nuala and Fiugalla, the first and second
wives of Hug]i Roe, who in the 15th century founded the monas-
tery. Commercially it has had little opportunity of making
any mark in the world, for nature has given it but inferior
advantages as a port ; nor is it a place of any great beauty. But,
on the other hand, as the home and last resting-place of many
of the great O'Donnell family, it cannot fail to interest the
general tourist. There is, besides, a remnant of its once famous
Franciscan Abbey. It is only a remnant, but some of the church
still stands, and there are arches of the cloisters remaining. It
was founded (1474) by the first wife of "Hugh Roe," mentioned
above, and completed by her successor. It was richly endowed
by O'Donnells ; some of the family retired late in life to its
cloisters, and many were buried in its tombs.
One of the most interesting years in its history was the year 1600, and the
most striking figure of that time was the famous Red Hugh. His romantic
story may be found briefly told in Dr. MacDevitt's pages. His capture whilst
at mess by Perrott's sailors, his imprisonment at Dublin, and his escape in the
depth of winter, at the second attempt, are well worth reading. Hugh's
ambitious design of being the exterminator of the English on the west was
thwarted by his cousin Nial the Fierce, wlio, jealous and unsuccessful, went
over to the English, and borrowing their men, crossed from the east coast,
turned out the friars from Donegal Abbey, and made it his stronghold. On
the 19th of September a fire broke out which burnt do^vn most of the building,
and Red Hugh seized the occasion for an assault. "The men on both
sides fought like lions. All through that memorable night did the fierce
struggle last ; the flames adding a ghastly horror to the wild work." It
ended in the flight of Nial, and to the monks the destruction of the mouasteiy
buildings.
POTATO DIGGING, DONEGAL.
Breakfast, dinner, and supper all the year round.
Reproduced from one 0/ Mr. Francis S. Walker s coloured illustrations in t lie book on
IRELAND by Frank Mathcw, ptd>lislied by A.and C. Black, So/to Square, London.
THE DONEGAL COAST TOUR 345
Strangely enough, in its greatest straits the monastery achieved its greatest
success. For the friars returned, and built liuts amid the ruined walls. " In
these cottages, during four years and a half between 1632 and 1036, was written
the chronicle known as the Annals of the Four Masters. It contains a history
of Ireland from the earliest times down to 1016, and was written in Irish by
four scholars of the Franciscan Order, now buried beneath the rains. The
translation was not completed until 1845. The work has been described as
" the final winding-up of the affairs of a people who had preserved their
nationality and independence for a space of over 2000 years, till their complete
overthrow about the time at which this work was compiled." It embraces
the history of the country from the year 1616 back to a date as remote as
2884 B.C., and the book "consisted of 11,000 quarto pages."
The most picturesque building in the town is the Castle of
the O'Donnells. For its first castle Donegal was indebted to
Hugh Roe, the O'Donnell whose wives founded the Abbey and
erected a large mansion here in Henry VII. 's reign. After
this had been wrecked a fine Elizabethan building was raised in
its place by Sir Basil Brook, of which we can see to-day a con-
siderable part remaining. The most pleasing bit is perhaps the
restored turret ; but the fireplace in the dressing-room, bearing
the Brook Arms, should certainly be observed.
The "Diamond " or central space, a common feature in Irish
towns, will be noticed. Adjoining it are the chief hotels.
Distances. (Rail). — Dublin, 181 ; Belfast, 118 ; Londonderry, 46J ; Stran-
orlar, 18; Ballyshannon, 14^; Bundoran, 18J ; Enniskillen, 54J; Killy-
begs, 19.
(iJood).— Sligo, 40^ ; Carrick, 29 ; Rosapenna, 113^ ; Letterkenny, 42.
The angler can make the town a convenient centi'e for the
trout-fishing on Lough Derg (14 miles) and the rivers Eany-
more and Eanybeg (8 miles). Lough Eske, which contains
salmon, trout, and some char, is only 5 miles away.
THE DONEGAL COAST TOUR.
By means of a combination of rail and cycle, a pleasant tour
can be made up. The outline of the tour, if taken throughout
without extra breaks, is as follows : Early morning train (about
7 A.M.) from Donegal to Killyhegs. Then, leaving Killybegs by
cycle and passing through Carrick we reach Ardara, where a
stop ia made for lunch. Glentie.'^ is passed between 4 and 5 o'clock,
346 DONEGAL
and we arrive in Dungloe a little before the dinner hour. This
is the resting-place for the night. At about 9 next morning we
may leave Dungloe for Gwcedore, and Dunfanaghy is reached in
the afternoon. After lunch a start may be made about 4, and
the journey is completed at Rosapenna about ^ hour before table
dlidtc time.
Such is, as we have said, the programme of the direct journey
without extra "breaks"; but we strongly recommend the
traveller who is not bound to scuttle through in the shortest
possible time to make a divergence at several points.
Carrick and Glencolumbkille should be visited at all costs, for
the sake of Slieve League, Slieve Tooey and the " Glen." There
are many excursions to be made in this neighbourhood, and at
least 3 or 4 days should be allowed. No iishermen will pass
Dungloe without a visit to some of the loughs on the Rosses ;
and he who rushes through Gweedore without climbing Errigal,
or fails to ascend Muckish from either Falcarragh or Dun-
fanaghy, will live to regret his lost opportunities. Horn Head
deserves at least a day or two. We here, of course, only offer a
few brief suggestions. There are many other fine bits which
can only be seen — much less appi-eciated — by breaking away from
this rigidly drawn route, and exploring on one's own account.
Donegal to Killybegs.
Cyclists will have little difficulty in finding their way, for the
road is never far away from the railway, and is marked through-
out by telegraph posts. They will have to take to their feet up
the steep hill about 2J miles out of Donegal, but the surface is
generally fair.
Mr. Balfour's Light Railway runs through 19 miles of pleasant
coast scenery, and skirts the heads of four inlets. The best
country is near Mount Charles (4 miles ; small inn), a pleasant
village just eastward of The Hall, the seat of the Marquis
Conyngham. At the head of Inver Bay is St. Naalis's village
of Inver (6 miles, formerly Imber-Naalis), between which and
MacSwyne's Bay is a long narrow peninsula of more than six
miles in length, with a lighthouse at the far end known as St.
John's Point, A castle and the next bay, which it overlooks,
still bear the name of the once famous family of MacSwiue or
JIacSweeney, who boasted of a direct descent from King Nial
KILLYBEGS 347
"of the Black Knee," and who, owing to their far -famed
physique, supplied many a band of the mailed " gallowglasses "
in native armies. Part of the same family settled on the
northern district round Mulroy Bay (p. 366).
Prom Inver Bridge a dreary road crosses the hills to Ardara (11 miles).
KILLYBEGS.
Hotels.— Coane's ; Rogers' Royal Bay View.
Distances.— Donegal (rail), 19 ; Carrick (road), 10 ; Ardara, 33 (car route), 11
(direct); Rosapenna, 94J.
Cars (see pink pages) depart for Carrick and Rosapeuna in early morning.
Not long ago the Royal Commission recommended this as a
national harbour, and it seems not impo-ssible that some day it
may be famous as a port of call for Atlantic "Liners."
The village is nicely situated on the edge of its large and
natural land-locked harbour, almost circular in shape, in which
ships of large size can anchor at any state of the tide. During
the wars with England in the 16th and I7th centuries Spanish
ships often used to enter it with supplies for the O'Donnell
chieftains.
A visit should be paid to Fintragh Bay, 2 miles west, where
there is a beautiful strand for bathers. Fintragh House (Capt. C.
Howard Crosbie) possesses an excellent garden and grounds rich
in beautiful shrubs. About \ mile N.E. of Killybegs is a " Loggan
Stone " or rocking stone, so poised on another that it may be
moved by a touch of the hand.
The stranger should also visit the curious rocks called
Muckross Market House — 5 miles beyond Fintragh — some
remarkable sea cliffs excavated by the waves so as to look like
rectangular roofed chambers. On the top of the heads there is
a Druidical circle, and the remains of a Danish fort close by.
From Killybegs to Carrick you have 10 miles of delightful
country, undulating and breezy, and though the cyclist, still
keeping to the telegraph wires, will find the half-way descent
into the Kilcar valleys a steep one, it affords some charming
view points. Slieve League, of course, is the leading feature in
front, and slightly to the right of Carrigan Head.
348 DONEGAL
OARRICK.
Hotel. — The Glencolumbkille {comfortable).
Distances. — Donegal, 29 ; Killybegs, 10 ; Ardara, 14 ; Slieve League, 5 tn
10 ; Glencolumbkille, 6 (direct), or by 81ieve League and Coast, 12|
tol6|.
Cahs. — See pink pages.
Carrick is undoubtedly one of the pleasantest centres in
Ireland, and can offer excursions of exceptional interest. The
village and its neighbourhood was a favourite one with the late
Lord Leighton, whose luggage, lettered " F. L.," we noticed in
the liall of the hotel only a few months before his death.
Anglers will find salmon and sea and brown trout in the
Glen, the river of this peninsula, and the Owenwee ; and there
are several loughs among the hills, each within 4 miles of
Carrick.
The excursion par excellence, for which all tourists would do
well to stay in the village at least one night, is to
Slieve League, "the Mountain of the Flag-Stones." The best
way to ascend this from Carrick is to turn from the cross-ways
down stream along the west, or mountain side of the Glen River
and of Teelin Bay. In a little over H mile turn right to
Oarrigan Head, a fine headland of several hundred feet in
height. Hence the road bends sharply back again to right
towards Bunglass Point.
If instead of continuing as far as the above right-hand turning to Carrigan
Head, you turn right after crossing the second important stream out of
Carrick, you may follow a good road— the Pilgrims' Road— up to the sum-
mit. This is considerably shorter, but uninteresting. It misses the rise
over Bunglass.
To every tourist in the West of Ireland our advice is — See
the view from Bunglass at all costs ! This one gem is worth all
the other rocks of Ireland put together. The name, which prob-
ably means "the Green Base," is given either to the southern
spur of Slieve League, which falls away due south from the
mountain proper to Carrigan Head ; or to the green sea below
under shelter of that spur. Local ideas are not precise ; but
local appreciation of the scenery here is strong, and ex-
presses itself in the name given to the top of this particular
CARRICK 349
cliff. It is called the Atoark Mor or "Great View." Once
seen in morning sunshine, this view of the southern face of
Slieve League rising steeply from the sea to the height of 1889
feet can never be forgotten ; the impressiveness and matchless
colouring of the rock defy description ; its beauty must be seen
to be believed.
Mr. H. C. Hart, in liis Climbing in Ireland, finds nothing comparable with
this assemblage of rock-hues, except "the wonderful cliff seen in Yellowstone
Park from ' Inspiration Point.' "
Still ascending, you reach, a little beyond Bunglass, the
Eagle's Nest ; and about | mile farther, the One Man's Path
begins. There has been much silly exaggeration among the old
descriptions of this. Nowadays, when so many ladies spend
their holidays in seeking out and "traversing" all the more
difficult crags in the Alps and the Cumberland Falls we should
be laughed at if we spoke of the One Man's Path as dangerous.
If we add that though in crossing some of the "Flagstones"
you will have to go " on all fours," we have on the other hand
never heard of any lady who experienced any serious difficulty
on it, we indicate sufficiently the dangers of this so-called
precipice.
By turning to the right from the lower end of the "Path"
you may sti'ike the Old Man's Path, and avoid the Flagstones.
A little beyond the upper end of the One Man's Path is the
eastern top of Slieve League. This is 1889 feet, and archseo-
logically more interesting than the actual summit. For there
are still here, only some 500 paces inland from the cliff edge,
the weather-beaten ruins of the old cloud -swept Oratories
of St. Hugh Macbracken (locally " Macbrecna ") and Bishop
Asicus. From the account quoted by Dr. MacDevitt, these
would appear to have lived an elevated life here some time in
the 6th centiiry.
The story runs that Asicus once uttered a falsehood, which so weighed
upon his conscience that he resigned his see, and in spite of the urgent
request of his followers withdrew to this lonely spot and lived for seven
years as a hermit. The block of buildings seem to have measured about 45
feet in length. On the north-east and north-west are sacred wells, and to
the north a spring. Fragments of tea-cups, bottle-ends and hair-pins still
testify to the devotion of pilgrims.
"A mistaken idea," says Jliss Stokes, "has long prevailed as to the
situation of the early monastic establishments in Ireland, It has been
thought that their traces are only to be found on the smaller uninhabited
350 DONEGAL
and inaccessible islands off the west coast, whereas the mountain tops and
the islands in the mountain ^arns of Ireland, offer just as striking examples
of anchorite establishments as do her western islands. Slieve Donard,
Slieve GuUion, Slieve Liag, Brandon Mountain in Kerry are still crowded by
the bee-hive cells and cashels of saints."
Splendid, indeed, was the view that cheered the lonely Donihanghard in
his cell on the summit of Slieve Donard but we venture to think the view
which Macbracken and Asicus enjoyed was the finer of the two.
The actual Summit lies a few minutes' walk farther west,
and you will find it worth while to go thus far, so as to see the
curious rock -pinnacles — chimney-stacks, as they have been
called, — which stand on the ridges below the cliff-edge. The
summit is 1972 feet.
The view is very varied and extensive, reaching northwards
to Sturrall and Slieve Tooey, and to Errigal (N.E.) on the right
of them. Eastwards St. John's Point is more interesting than
the hazy flats round Loughs Erne and Melvin, but you get just
a glimpse south-east of the hills beyoud Manor Hamilton in
which the Shannon rises. Due south is Sligo Bay, just in front
of it is hiismurray island, the delight of the antiquary ; and
left of it Benbulben. To the right of the island, some 55 miles
away, south-west, you can perhaps see Nephin above Lough
Conn in Mayo.
One writer would have us see 20 miles farther, even as far as Croagh
Patrick ; but the great distance, and the fact that the latter is more than
100 feet lower than, and exactly in a line behind Xephiu, are strong reasons
for thinking that he has confused the two peaks.
A repaying walk westwards leads to Glencolumbkille along
the coast. The whole distance is about 9| miles. Leaving the
next hill, Leahan, on your right you make for Malin-heg (4
miles), a little village on the cliffs facing Rathlin O'Byrne
Islatui, the most westerly village in Donegal, and a favourite
with the late Lord Leightoii, whose quaint holiday haunt may
be seen near the Coast (juard Station.
The famous legend of Malin-beg and Slieve League — "The
Story of the Spaniard " — should be read in The Donegal High-
lands.
At the far end of Malin Bay is Malin More (6 miles), and
still kee])ing to the west you turn along Glen Bay to Glen-
columbkille.
GLENCOLUMBKILLE 351
Carrick to Glencolumbkille. — This may be done either — (a)
by the direct road (6 miles), which passes the Hotel at Carrick,
and following the stream of the Owcmvee, bears right and left
again at Lough Oona (2^ miles), and enters the village (6^
miles) after crossing the low hills ; or (&) by the cliff path over
Slieve League described just above. This latter, taken alto-
gether as suggested, makes an excursion of about 17 miles.
Glencolumbkille (Hotel). — Botanists will find in this remote
valley some specimens that are worth their hunting, whilst
to the general tourist it has uncommon attractions as the
scene of St. Columba's labours and the spot where the Saint
planted his monastery. The place to-day abounds in remains of
his settlement, and the Protestant Church is said to stand on
the site of the religious house which he founded. The clitf
scenery north of the bay is also good, and no visitor to Glen-
columbkille or Carrick should omit the walk past the Saint's
Bed to Glen Head and Sturrall, at least.
Nine generations before St. Columba appeared here in "Seau-Glean," as it
was called, his birth was foretold, if legend is to be believed, by Fin-McCoul.
When he came it was in obedience to an angelic command, which bade him
expel from this plague-stricken village the host of fierce demons which in-
fested it. He lost his friend Coarc in the tight, but victoiy favoured liim
at last, when invoking the sacred name he hiu-led forward his famous bell
and blue-hued stone, and so drove the band of evil ones through a rock-
cleft into the sea.
It was probably for the above bell that the bell-shrine of Conall Cael was
made. This is still treasured to-day (in the British Museum?) as one of the
six "beautiful reliquaries " of the kind which still survive.
Of the many early crosses, incised with sacred emblems, one or two of the
best may be seen at the eastern end of the village. At the far western end
of the glen, or rather on the hill-side by the path which ascends there to
Glen Head, are the Saint's Bed, tlie Saint's Well, and the miraculous Eye
Stone. Piles of stones s\irmounted by rude crosses or slabs will be noticed
dotted along the meadows. Before leaving be sure to see the "Soutteraiu,"
in the graveyard of the church at the east end of the village. This is a
curious excavation underground, consisting of a central chamber with two
approaching passages east and west, the whole length measuring about
50 feet.
Local story tells of Prince Charlie's visit here, whilst he
waited to make his escape from this coast.
From Glencolumhkille to Ardara by coast (18 miles) makes a
capital excursion, but will take about a whole day. The best
things seen are the Glen Head (1^ mile), Sturrall Rock (2^),
The Sawpit (5), Tormove Island, Puliska (8) and Maghera (13).
352 DONEGAL
From Carrick to Ardara by the public car route, a distance of
22 miles, the cyclist will find at first good wheeling along the
Glen and Grove rivers, but at tlie end ol' 9 miles care will be
necessary, where the steep but inteicsting road descends from
Glengesh Pass (900 feet). Glengesh Hill (1652 feet) rises on the
left hand, which commands miles of the broken western coast
as far as the North Aran Island, and to the north-east the Derry-
veiglis round Slieve Snacht and Errigal. The Pass is a fine
bit of wild Donegal.
If preferred, an easier and dnllor journey may be taken to Killybegs and
northwards again, thenco by " Nick of the Barr"— 22 miles in all.
Ardara {Hotel : Nesbitt Arms ; Cars, see pink pages) is one
of the neatest and most regularly built villages in Donegal.
It is an excellent centre for exploring the striking scenery of
the coast, and especially Loughros Point (6 miles), Louyhrvs
Beg Bay, with Slieve Tooey (1692 feet) looking down on
the scene. Good tront and salmon fishing may be had at
Ardara and Glenties in the loughs and streams of the neighbour-
hood. Some of the fishing is preserved, but leave may be
obtained from the local agent. The rivers Owenee and Owen-
stocker afford fair sport. In Loughros Bay there are salmon.
The Maghera Caves on the south coast of the bay are very
curious. Narin is 6^ miles north, on Gweebarra Bay ; it faces
Inishkeel Island which contains the ancient church of Conall
Caoil. The view from Dunmoro Head is fine, and there are
many ancient remains in the neighbourhood.
On the right of the road to Narin is passed the famous " Bed of Dermot
and Grania," a cromlech near Kilclooney, of which the natives tell romantic
legends.
At Ardara is the chief western centre of the Irisli Industries
Association, and the manufacture of homespun and all kinds of
knitted hosiery employs many hands. A visit should by all
means be paid to some of the workshops.
From Ardara to Glenties there is easy travelling along 6 miles
of valley road, lying between the Gikentocker and Owenee
streams.
■55
It
GLENTIES.
Railway Station.— Donegal Railway.
Hotel. — O'Donnell's ; The Donegal Highlands.
Oars. — See pinlc pages.
%
Since the extension liither of the nortliern branch of the
Donegal Railway from Stranorlar this prettily named village of
400 inhabitants has risen into importance. It is in pleasantly
wooded country, and lies at the meeting of two anglers' streams,
the Shallogan and the Owenee, and at the western feet of the
spurs of the Blue Stack Mountains. It is noted for its huge
poorhouse, and is a centre of the woollen shirt and homespun
industries.
Distances. — Dungloe, 13; Rosapanna, 5(5^; Ai-dara, 6; Carrick, 28;
Mountcharles, IS ; Stranorlar, 24J.
EXCURSIONS FROM GLENTIES.
Glenties will be found an excellent headquarters for that rara
avis, the mountaineer among the Blue Stack Mountains.
This untrodden group deserves more popularity, and for those
who would gain some delightful views, even at the cost of the
climb, we suggest the walk across the Blue Stack group to the
southern line of the Donegal Railway, a tramp of about 19 or
20 miles.
Leave Glenties by the southern road bearing left to the Owenee river. A
little beyond ilartin's Bridge, about 5^ miles, bear right, and ascend Silver
HiU (1979 feet). Turn from the top to your (E.) left to Lavagh More (2211 feet).
The Blue Stack (2219 feet), the highest peak of the group, a bold mass of
granite, lies south-east of the latter, and is approached by a high ridge.
Now comes the finest bit of the journey, the descent to Lough Eske,
fringed with trees. It lies S.S.B., and there are roads on both sides. la
23
354 GLENTIES
dropping from the summit avoid precipitous rocks (E.) over Lough
Belshade. The left-hand (N.B.) road is the quickest, which passing
Ashdown Waterfall leads to Lough Eske Station, 4 miles from Donegal.
From Gleuties the distance to the top of Silver Hill is about 6^ miles, and
to the top of the Blue Stack 10 miles.
Narin, on Gweebarra Bay, is mentioned on p. 352 ; it is about
8^ miles from Glenties, and can be reached by a fairly straight
and level road which turns away from the station and railway
at the north-west end of the village.
From Glenties to Stranorlar (24^ miles) the road {good
cycling) runs throughout near the railway. The best scenery
is perhaps around Lough Finn, under Aghla Mountain, and the
wildest part is between Ballinamore Station and Cloghan
Station.
To Gartan Lough (24| miles). This is one of the best trips
from Glenties, but — unless there be a very stiff south-west
wind blowing — the cyclist will probably enjoy the long rise to
the high pass under Meenaboll Hill less than the traveller by
foot or car. The surface is not bad as a rule, and good over the
Pass mentioned.
At the north end of the village, where the Maas and Narin
road turns seawards (L. ), bear to the right and follow the rail-
way. Aghla Mountain (1961 feet) rises on the right over south
end of Lough Finn.^ Keep the lake side passing Finntown
(road L. to Dungloe) Inn and Finntoum, Station (R.) ; at fork
beyond (11 miles) pass right-hand road to Stranorlar and con-
tinue to Meenaboll Hill (15| miles).
This hill may be called the central point of Donegal ; it is of considerable
interest, not only on this account, but as being, \\ith its N.E. shoulder
" Binswilly," and " Meenirroy Hill," its shoulder on the south, the fans et
origo of Letterkenny's river, the Swilly. As you stand here above the
runnels on the east slope which drop to Letterkenny and swell past Rath-
mullen into the " Lough of Shadows " under Buncrana, with some 15 miles
of the great Rosses district on your left between this and the western sea,
with Lough Finn behind and Lough Cartan in front, you are upon the
central connecting link between the Blue Stack Mountains of South Donegal
and the northern highlands of the county which encircle the graceful
Errigal.
Take the left-hand, new road, and bearing right 4J miles
beyond, keep Lough Gartan on your left. From Gartan Bridge
1 The name is derived from that of the Lady Firma, of whom Dr. Joyce
tells an interesting story in his Irish Place Names,
LOUGH GARTAN— LETTERKENNY 355
turn left to St. Columb's Hotel on the north sliore of the lake
(good reports).
Lough Gartan (Gartan, like "garth" in the English Lakes, means
"garden"). This name, though specially attached to the larger and lower
lough, sometimes includes also the upper water of Lough Akibbon. It is
distinctly an anglers" centre, and devotees of the "gut" will find in these
waters, in the Lannan River, and several neighbouring loughs fair sport
with trout and, according to report, salmon.
These lakes are, of coiu'se, best known from their association with Saint
Columba. After allowing a liberal discount from the exaggerated stories
we have of him, there are suflBcient facts to show that without doubt he was
a wonderful man, possessing " talents of the highest order and consummate
prudence." Somewhere near the ruins of the ancient chapel on the W. shore
of the upper Lake, Akibbon, about 521 a.d. Columba, "the Dove of the
Churches," was born of princely family. His activity was marvellous, and
"he was beloved by all." He travelled all over the North and founded cells
or monasteries at Derry, Glencolumbkille, Kells, and other places. When
about 40 years of age, for unknown reasons he sailed away with 12 dis-
ciples to Scotland and founded the great monastery on Zona, which " became
the most famous in North Bui'ope." Strangely enough, that house and the
monastery built at Kells by his monks have entirely perished. i The mar-
vellous " Book of Kells " (see Dublin Sect. p. 8) has been ascribed to
Columba ; but this, according to Miss Stokes, is a mistake. It is a copy of
a version of the gospels introduced into Ireland perhaps after the year 600,
and the "perfection of the writing" seems of later date. But that this
astonishing piece of monkish art was worked in the monastery founded by
Columba seems certain ; it is now in Tiinity College, Dublin. In the Dublin
Museum also is the so-called " Gartan Bell of Columba."
The greater lake receives most of its waters from the streams
falling from the Glendowans, 6 miles south-west.
Kilmacrenan is about 6| miles away down the valley of the Lannan river,
and for this either the road from Belleville Park or from Church Hill may be
taken. Letterkenny lies about 11 miles south-east. The walk to Gweedore is
done the reverse way, p. 360.
Glenties to Letterkenny, 21 miles. — Follow the Lough Gartan
route, above, for 15| miles, as far as Meenaboll Hill ; then keep
direct down valley of the Swilly (R.).
Glenties to Dungloe. — Of two roads (a) the longest and most
interesting (21 miles) is that which follows the Gartan Lough
route (above) for 8^ miles to Finntown Inn, a little short of
the Station ; and then turning left with a fair surface reaches
1 From lona he appears to have borne his message into Northumberland,
Norway, and perhaps Iceland 1
356 GLENTIES
Doochary Bridge in 13| miles. It crosses here tLe remarkable
Gwecbarra — Glen-Veigh Valley, wliieh, running with crow-line
straightness from Maas to Glen — a distance of 30 miles — divides
the granite tract of the Rosses on its west from the main Silurian
districts of the county. A steep zigzag lifts up out of Doochary
Bridge, called "The Corkscrew," but the toiling cyclist will be
repaid at the top by the road that runs 7\ miles through the
wild, lough-indented Rosses to Dungloe {see p. 357).
{b) Keep up by side of the railway from station for 3 miles ;
turn left away from railway ; keep straight on direct to Ballyna-
carrick Ferry. A dullish road to right of Trawenagh Bay, to
Dungloe (13 miles).
DUNGLOE.
Keabest Bailway Stations. — Fiiintown, 12 m. ; Glenties, 13 m.
Hotels. — Boyle's ; Sweeny's.
Cars.— See pink pages.
Dungloe — once called "the Ultima ThnJe of anglers in Ire-
land " — will have charms for every fisherman, charms indeed of
no common order. Its fishery agents advertise the varied sport
on no less than a hundred loughs, to say nothing of the fishing
off the coast. The numerous wild-fowl also supply a fair amount
of shooting, and there are some seals to be found off the shore.
But with this we have said all. The ordinary tourist will find
nothing of interest in the place, except, perhaps, the pleasures of
the table, and the meeting with many fellow-travellers. It is a
misfortune that the divisions of the public car journey do not
allow the longer stay to be made at Gweedore, where there is so
much more to do and see.
Professor Hull points out that, like the remarltable country south of the
Connemara "Bens," the "granitic moorlands" called The Bosses, between
Slieve Snacht and the shores of the Atlantic, bear many evidences of ice
action. Loughs and loughlets abound, and the indented coast is bordered
by innumerable islands, of which the largest is Aran.
Distances.— Glenties, 13 ; Carrick, 41 ; Donegal, 85 ; Gweedore, 12| ; Bosa-
penna, 43J ; Gartan Lough, 24J ; Barton Port, 6.
Excursions maybe made to Burton Port [McDonnell's Hotel), 5^
miles, and Croby Head, both of which afl'ord good coast scenery ;
or to Aran Island (north), four sea miles from Burton Port,
with its lighthouse, hills, and classically named village of
Ilion. A pretty story about the Stag Rocks, which lie 4^ miles
to the north, may be learnt from many a Pat.
358 DUNGLOE
Between Dungloe and Gweedore a fine journey through good
mountain country may be had at the moderate cost of 26 miles
of walking. It is probably one of the best "tramps" of the
kind in Donegal.
Leave Dungloe by the wild but good road going eastward to
Doochary Bridge (7^). From the latter place, at the foot of " the
corkscrew " road, turn left along the west side of the Owenwee
stream. Rising past Lough Barra (R. ), and between Slieve Snacht
(2240 feet) on your left and the Glendowans opposite to it, you
stop at the summit (800 feet) of the Pass, and meeting the
delightful view in front, down Glen-Veigh, turn up left, at a
point 8 miles from Doochary Bridge. Keeping direct in the north-
west line you pass over the Derryveigh Mountains into the
Poisoned G-len, and continue straight forward to Dunlewy Church
(19 miles) at the foot of the beautiful Errigal. Tlie loughs of
Dunlewy and Nacung, beyond, are before you, and at the far end
of the latter water is Gweedore Hotel,
The direct road of 12 miles from Dungloe to Gweedore, recently made
across a dreary bogland, goes straight north-east past Lough Anure (5 miles)
and Crolly Bridge, on the Gweedore river, where there are an Inn and a pretty
waterfall.
The old car road to Gweedore starts in a N.AV. direction, and
passes over Anagry Bridge, in the heart of The Rosses, to
Crolly Bridge, where it joins the new direct road. By this the
total distance is 16 miles.
The new railway from Londonderry to Burton Port has a
station at Loughniealow, 4 miles from Dungloe. another at
Loughamire, and another at Gweedore.
GWEEDORE.
Hotel. — The Gweedore (good).
Cars. — See pink pages.
Distances. — Dungloe, 12| ; Falcarragh 10 ; Glenties, 25 ; Donegal (direct),
45 ; Letterkenny, 28 or 30 ; Derry, 55.
"What sort of fish do you catch here?" once asked a
haughty stranger of Pat as he sat a-fishing. " Well, to tell
you the truth," was the cool reply, "you niver can tell till
you pull 'em up." To inquirers about the sport in Gweedore
we must for the present give information smacking somewhat of
similar indefiniteness. Fishermen, however, should try experi-
ments on the Clady River (westward, below Brians Bridge),
part of which is free to visitors at the hotel. Permission to fish
Loughs Nacung and Altan can be obtained easily. "Hi Regan "
recommends Lough Lagha (4J miles eastward of Derrybeg).
To other visitors, if we may judge from our own experience,
Gweedore will prove a delightful halting-place as long as the
comforts of the hotel remain the same. For these latter, and,
indeed, for the house itself our gratitude is due to Lord George
Hill of Ballyarr, who created the place at great expense, and
for forty years watched over its interest up to his death in 1879.
The nearest railway station is at Glenties, 25 miles.
The excursion is the ascent of Errigal (2466 feet), which rises
over Dunlewy Church and Dunlewy House, at the far end of
Dunlewy Lough. If not a cyclist, take a car along the ex-
cellent eastern road which skirts the two lakes. A little beyond
the inn (5| miles : small and grimy), and just short of the
old Barracks, you will find the best point for a start. While
diverging from the road, keep on forward in north-easterly
direction for some minutes before turning up left, and com-
mencing to climb.
360 GWEEDORE
It is an interesting mountain in every way ; and in a high
wind or fog is liable to give you a wild experience at the top.
By this route there need be none of the dangers to be found
on the precipitous part of the other sides. One great advan-
tage it has : it is the driest mountain we have climbed in
Ireland, the Mournes being second in this respect. The name
means "the little church." The summit has two points united
by a short razor-like edge.
The view is grand, and embraces most of the mountains
which are worth seeing in N.W. Ireland, from Slieve League
(S.W.) to Knocklayd (E.) in Antrim. The vast extent of waters,
both of sea and lough, in addition to the splendid array of
mountains seen, places it among the very finest view-points in
Ireland if not in the whole kingdom.^
Professor Hull refers to the quartzites to be seen in the rock
of Errigal, and speaks of this beautiful mountain as a "peerless
cone." During the "ice age " this group of heiglits appears to
have been the central point of the N.W. Snowfield, the ice-flow
radiating in several directions from hence. Slieve Snacht
curiously enough bears a name which reminds us of the time
when it was " enveloped by snow."
Slieve SiwcJd (2240 feet). As one of the best things about
Snowdon is the picture it presents to those who climb the
Glyders, so the view of Errigal which you have from the top
of Slieve Snacht is as fine as that of any mountain seen from
Errigal itself. The summits are very different, the latter being
a hump of granite, grassy in many places and with some shelter.
The only ascent we know by experience is that by the east side
of the Devlin river, an extremely wild and very boggy roijte.
The view obtaiiaed from "the top was more than repaying.
To Gartan Lough by the Poisoned Glen (17| miles). A good
walk over mountainous country and among fine views. From
Dunlewy Inn (p. 359) turn right, and aL head of iho Poisoned Glen
bear left till you reach the ridge ; then south-east to the best
view -point on the Glen-Veigh — Gweebarra road (8J miles).
Hence you have some good valley scenery to the left, over Lough
Veigh.
1 In 1895 we reached the top at 6.45 a.m. in a quickly moving mist, and
the intermittent views over laiirl and sea, seeu tlirough and over the clouds,
were most striking.
CREESLOUGH— BUNBEG— FALCARRAGH 361
On the right are the Glendowans, and round the foot of these
a road forks away eastward to Gartan Lough {see p. 354).
If after leaving the Glen-Veigli road you take the right-
hand road in 4^ miles you may reach MeenaboU Hill in an-
other 4^ miles, and so take the route to Glenties {see p. 355).
To Creeslough by Muckish Gap (19 miles). Not so good an
excursion as the last, but an interesting walk. Take the road
to Errigal foot (p. 359), and continue round the base of that
mountain N.E., passing under Dooish (right 8 miles) to Galabber
Bridge. Here bear left to Muckish Gap (13^ miles), wliich is
800 feet up, and then right under Muckish ("Pig's Back") to
Creeslough (p. 363).
To Bunbeg it is 3^ miles due west by a good cycling road ;
good, that is, as regards surface ; but terrible if you have to
face a good stiff Atlantic " whiff. "^ The village boasts a
diminutive harbour and small inn. Turning due north you
can follow a direct road to Derrybeg, 1^ mile farther.^ There
is little to see at the Bloody Foreland, 5 miles beyond. Nor
is this route to Falcarragh the best of the three from Gweedore.
To Falcarragh the wilder road of 90 miles through Galabber
Bridge, and thence direct over Muckish Gap (800 feet) may be
taken ; but the direct car route which follows the first turn left
off the Errigal road from Gweedore is only 10 miles.
Falcarragh {alias cross roads ; Hotel : M'Ginley's), 10 miles
from Gweedore, 7 from Dunfanaghy, and 19 from Kilmacrenan,
is a small well-situated village, convenient for the fishing on
Lough Lagha, the climbing of Muckish {see p. 363), and the
beauties of Horn Head (p. 362).
About 2 miles eastward is the old Myrath biiryin^-ground, wliere you
may find the large but broken cross which Saint Columba "hewed out of
the side of Muclcish," and which was carried hither by "angels." In spite
of Dr. M'Devitt's opinion that it may be "the very largest " of Irish crosses,
the High Cross of Monasterboice, which is 27 feet high, overtops it by 7 feet.
The musically named villages of Falcarragh, Gortahork and Bedlam stand
on the Olphert Estate, famous for connection with the " Plan of Campaign."
1 Try the walk of 12 miles to Dungloe in the lace of a typical Donegalese
"sou'-wester," and, to judge by our own experience, you will meet with an
element that will fairly stagger you !
2 In a ravine below the lake at Derrybeg the people once worshipped
during the period when their religion was proscribed. "Sentinels were
posted round to watch while the priest officiated at a small rustic altar."
Tlie walk leading up to the priest's house is famous as the spot where
Inspector Martin was shot whilst arresting the priest here.
362 GWEEDORE
DUNFANAGHY.
Hotels.— Stewart Anns ; Hogg's.
Distances. — Falcarragh, 7 ; Creeslough, 7 ; Rosapenna, 15 ; Milford, 14^
(by Kilmacrenan) ; Letterkenny, 20.
Cars. — See pink pages.
Railway Station, 4i miles distant. Through tickets to Dunfanaghy
are issued by the Lough Swilly Railway Company.
Rather a pretty village ou the shore, in a creek of Sheep Haven
Bay, with a smooth bathing-beach, and air and water which
are the perfection of purity ; sheltered from the northern breezes
by the hilly promontory which terminates in Horn Head, — such
is Dunfanaghy "the fort of Finchu." It has good hotel accom-
modation, and forms the best centre for Horn Head and a
convenient headquarters for Tory Island and Muckish.
To the old signal town on Horn Head it is 4^ miles along a
rising road. Do not on any account miss this, one of the best
bits in the North of Ireland.
If weather permits, a boat should be hired to examine this
towering headland and its wonderful caves, witli the Snuff-box
and M'Swyne's Gun. The Horn is as noted for sea-fowl of
every kind as St. Kilda in the Hebrides, or Noss Head in
Shetland. Mr. H. C. Hart makes the rock of the Head "10 or
12 miles in extent," and gives a description of the escape from
a sea-locked cave of a man who had been there " over three
weeks watching salmon," in 1876. ■^
The Head gets its name from the horn-like rocks which rise
more than 600 feet from the sea, and which distinguish it from
all other headlands.
Templebreaga Arch is on the western side ; so also, nearer to
Dunfanaghy, is M'Swyjie's Gun. This is a cave with a huge
opening to the sea and a funnel-like vent at the top, through
which the compressed air and water and stones are shot forth
with a roar.
Tory Island is about 8 miles away N.W. It is most usually reached also
from JIagheraroarty. Tlie name of the island comes from the tors or tower-
like rocks, according to Joyce, and not the old Round Tower still standing
60 feet high, a witness to the early settlement here of the monks. Near it is
a remarkable Cross shaped like a T, which "appears to be in its original
1 Climbing in the British Isles ; Longmans.
MUCKISH — CREESLOUGH DOE CASTLE 363
condition." The old archway between these two is a remnant of the two
early churches once found here. All were investigated by Petrie before 1845.
Near the Cross, at the N.W. corner of the Island, is West Toum, the best
landing-place, where some of the "curraghs" or primitive boats of the
natives may be seen.
The inhabitants revel in wonderful stories and weird folk-lore,
but have now lost their uon-rent-paying reputation, and are ar-
ranging to buy their holdings under the new Land Purchase Act.
The tale of King Balor of the Mighty Blows, his wild sea-
rovings, and the imprisonment of the lovely princess Ethnea
are local legends.
The best way to approach Muckish is to train to Creeslough.
Cycling or walking from there take the inland road (at the Dun-
fanaghy end of the village) which goes direct to Muckish Gap.
The shepherd's cottage, just short of the gap, we have found a good
starting-point. (Here the cycle may be left). The top is an ex-
tensive table with four or five cairns. In the central heap of stones
we surprised a hare about as much as he astonished us. The view
is splendid, especially the north face of Errigal's " peerless cone."
Seven miles of fair riding, rendered interesting by the views of
Sheep Haven on the north and of Muckish landwards, separates
Dunfanaghy from Creeslough. Three-quarters of the way on
you get sight of Ards House and richly wooded demesne (left),
commanding the upper reach of Sheep Haven.
William Wray, the old Master of Ards, in the 18th century had a
strange history. He lived here in luxurious state and "dispensed hospi-
tality with true regal splendour." His ambition indeed appeared to be to see
daily as much eaten as possible ; and to facilitate the arrival of guests he
engineered a road over Salt Mountain. Extravagance, however, at last had
its reward, and the old man, broken down, went over to France, where he died
"poor, unfriended, and forgotten."
Creeslough {Hotel : Hartiu's, 8 bedrooms) ; Dunfanaghy,
7 miles ; Rosapenna, 8 ; Letterkenny, 13 ; Milford, 7|, is well
placed above Sheep Haven, and is near quarters for Muckish,
Doe Castle, Salt Lough, Glen-Veigh, and Gartan Lough.
Doe Castle (2 miles), the ancient stronghold, once the home of the
M'Sweeneys, is chiefly known from its connection with tlie central figure of
the insurrection of 1641, the year before the opening of the Civil War in
England, and one of the most terrible and sanguinary in the chronicles of
Ireland.
In that rising of the Roman Catholics under "Owen Roe" we have "a
picture of the vengeance which a people, brutalised by oppression, wreaks
364 GWEEDORE
in the moment of its brief triumx)li on its oppressors." 1 Smarting from re-
membrance of tlie confiscations of the settlement, and enraged at the policy
of England, the Ulstermen, on heariiig that the Protestant forces under
Monroe had landed to crush their protests, sent to Colonel "Owen Roe"
O'Neil, then in Spain. He landed in 1641 near Castle Doe, and made this
his headquarters. Under his able leadership they did well, and at such an
awkward moment in English history might have roused a serious opposition.
But among the four wi-angling parties in Ireland bitter contention arose,
and whilst the house became divided against itself, " Owen Roe," the only
general of ability, suddenly died. Hence it was that Ireland held its sword
with but a weak hand when Cromwell arrived.
Lough Salt is 8 miles S.E. and well worth visiting. The
picturesque Glen-Veigh is 8 miles S.W. ; and Gartan Lough,
the early home of St. Coluniba, is 9 miles S. (p. 354).
Leaving Greeslough for Eosaiienna you have an awkward hill
to manage ; then passing round the head of Sheep Haven by
Lackagh Bridge, bear left in full view of Doe Castle and Ards
House (p. 363) towards Carrigart E. C. Church (6^). Keeping
this on your right, turn left along the sandy neck of the
peninsula to Rosapenna (8 miles).
By tiu-ning right at Lackagh Bridge, Glen can be reached in If, and so a
round made to Rosapenna, in all 9J miles. It was in the neighbourhood of
Glen that the charming story-teller Mr. W. Le Fanu first saw and "sampled"
foteen, under the guidance of one Dolty. Soon afterwards his attention waa
drawn to " five policemen carrying in triumph through the village a still
just seized." Dolty was in fits of laughter; the still, he said, was an old
one, quite worn out. " Look at the holes in it. Some one has given informa-
tion to the police where they might find it. We often play them that trick,
and sometimes get a pound reward for an old still not worth sixpence."
1 See Goldwin Smith and Froude for the history of this time.
THE HIGHLANDS
StatiLte Mdes
Miin. Roads
JS/uuwhroe P*
BLOODV FORELAND S
Jnishsirrer Cix
JjiishmeaJie
TTrrdin. Z.-Ci 0
Golal
Jnishhe^Q
Irtishdooey, C"?
Imilibofci 5\^,^
Gweedflre' Ba
Inzs7t/re^
^ C\. ?^
Crnitl.M ^
^^ V
X-^ t
PilhlisliedVA*C31aci
dohegajl.
ROSAPENNA.
Hotel.— The Rosapenna ("Norwegian" style; well appointed, comfortable
golfing house) ; a small inn also at Carrigart.
Cars.— See pink pages.
Steamers weekly, from Portrush and Derry.
Distances.— Londonderry, 32; Milford, 11 ; Rathmullen, 18J; Fahan Rail-
way Station, 21,} ; Buncrana, 25 ; Portsalon, 14 ; Creeslough Railway
Station, 8 ; Dunfanaghy, 14J ; Gweedore Railway Station, 31^ ; Killy-
begs (by Carrick), 94J.
Lord George Hill made Gweedore into a tourist centre. Rosa-
penua was made by Lord Leitrim. All the comforts which it
offers to the traveller, and all the advantages possessed by local
industries are due alike to that liberal-hearted nobleman. His
early death deprived both his tenantry, by whom he was much
beloved, and the whole counti-yside of a landlord and leader
whose type is sadly rare in this country.
He promoted industry, opened markets, started the steamer service
between this bit of wild Donegal and the outer world, and last, but not
least, built the hotel. In the latter project he went to great trouble. For
he selected the wood in Stockholm, and, after learning the build of Scandi-
navian hostelries, brought over the materials to Muli-oy in two ships and
employed special workmen. Unfortunately, owing to a fatal attack of
typhoid, he did not see the completion of his work.
" He loved his people"
are the simple words on the memorial cioss at Carrigart. They speak
volumes. The work he began is now being carried on by his son, the present
Earl of Leitrim.
The golf links— to many the chief attraction — are quite near
the hotel, and good. They were " discovered " by old Tom
Morris, and planned by Brown of Dublin. A pleasant sandy
beach near the hotel makes good footing for bathers.
Fishermen will find theii' way to the streams falling into
366 ROSAPENNA
Mulroy Bay, the sea-inlet on the east side of the peninsula ; or,
for sea-fishiug, to Sheep Haven.
Scenery-hunters will do well to hasten to the top of Gania-
more, the tempting little hill north of the hotel. It is only 680
feet up, and commands a most interesting view. The far hills
on the east are those of Inishowen, culminating in the northern
Slieve Snacht. Next, they should go through Creeslough, by the
road that skirts Sheep Haven, to Z>im/a7iagr%(14| miles); noticing
Doe Castle on the way (p. 363), and staying at Dunfanaghy long
enough to enjoy the beauties of Horn Head (p. 362). This fine
headland is only 19 miles from Rosapenna.
Muckish is 7 miles south-west of Creeslough and well worth
a climb (p. 363).
To Milford there is a good cycling road along the pretty western
shore of MuLroy Bay. It is 11 miles ; passing through Carrigart
turn right, having the church on your ri^ht.
To Kilmacrenan (16 miles) you may go either through Glen
(5 miles) and (right) over Barnes Gap (400 feet) ; or direct from
Glen (left) by Lough Salt (1 mile less).
The opening of the Burton Port Railway, which is an extension
of the Letterkenny line, adds greatly to the accessibility of
Rosapenna, which is only 8 miles from Creeslough Station.
From Kilmacrenan {inns) anglers may work on Lough Fern, Lannan
Eiver, and Lough Gartan. There is a fair-sized hotel at the latter.
Rosapenna to Portsalon. — (1) From Carrigart, the right turn,
with church on right hand, is the best for wheels (21^ miles).
This passes Milford and Kerrykeel. (2) Walkers will take the
eastern coast-road, cross RawToss Ferry (3^ miles), and turn right,
passing near Leatbeg, and noticing the fine view to the south-
west. After crossing Moross Ferry ^ (2^ miles) you reach Rossna-
kill village, where you turn first right and at once left ; thence
keep straight on to Portsalon (total 14 miles), facing the Urris
Hills right in front, on the far side of Lough Swilly.
1 In a farmhouse at the foot of Cashelraore Hill (560 feet), a short way north
of Moross Ferry, was born that Miss Patterson who became the wife of
Jerome Bonaparte, and thus ancestress of Prince Napoleon, the present
head of the family. By the natives she is still spoken of as " Queen of
France."
PORTSALON.
Hotel. — Colonel Barton's.
Railway Station.— Nearest Fahan, 11 miles by steamer.
Steamer. — See pink pages.
Portsalon is to lower Lough Swilly wliat Buncrana is to the
upper reaches. It has the advantage of being 9 miles nearer
the two Heads of Fanad and DunafF, which guard the sea-
mouths of the lough. It is charmingly placed on Ballymastocker
Bay, at a fine angle of the lough, and faces a noble group of
mountains ranging from Urris and Slieve Snacht (in Owen, 2019
feet) on the left to Knockalla, or the Devil's Backbone, on the
right. Directly in front the Swilly comes down its longest
reach of 9 miles, a fine sweep of water, two miles wide, for the
most part, from shore to shore. The golf links are some of the
best in Ireland ; and there is pleasant bathing in the bay.
DisTAHCES.— {Steamer) Fahan, 11 ; (road) Rathmullen, 17 ; Milford, lOJ ; Car-
rigart, 12^ ; Letterkenny, 22 ; Londonderry (steamer and raO), 20.
The Seven Arches. — A short and interesting excursion. About IJ mile
north from the hotel. These are a series of fine caverns scooped out of the
limestone rock by the action of the waves. They can be easily reached by
land, but the approach by water is more grand and imposing. From the
strand where the boat denosits the visitor, "a cave with a naiTOW entrance
runs 130 feet inland, and beyond this are the Seven Arches, one of which,
forming a grand entrance from the sea, 100 yards long, divides into two.
Beyond the left-hand one is another cave 120 feet long. The right-hand one
is again divided into four beautiful ones, through any of which a passage
may be made on to the boulder strand, whence another arch leads towards
the north. — Canon Baillie.
When at tlie Seven Arches the tourist should go on by boat, 2 miles, to
Doagh and Beg, where the cliffs rise to 400 feet ; and to the granite rock
called Brown George, with a natural arch 8 feet high.
368 PORTSALON
To Rosapenna (and Carrigart) the direct way for pelestrians
is by Moross Ferry aud Rawross Ferry, an interesting cross-cut
of 14 miles {see p. 366). But the only wheel-road is 21J miles,
through Kerrykeel, Milford, and back along the opposite shore
of Mulroy Bay.
For Kilnuicrenan (15J miles) and Gartan Lough (22| miles)
continue direct south-west through Milford.
For Lctterkenny (21 miles) take the main southern road to
Kerrykeel (6 miles), which follows the shore of Mulroy Bay at
the foot of the Devil's Backbone hills, and so direct to Milford
(10| miles ; inns). Here you will be puzzled by a diversity of
roads, and it will be well to make full inquiries on the spot.
That whicli leaves the village south-east leads in 6 miles to Ramelton
(hotel), from which a direct route of 15^- miles may be made to Derry over
Fort Stewart ferry.
The main south road leaves Lough Fern and Kilmacrenan on
the right, and so over moderate hills to Letterkenny.
To RatJimulUn. — There is either (1) the pedestrian route along
the shore of Lough Swilly (12 miles), by the "battery" at the
left-hand end of the Knockalla Mountain (1203 feet) and Fort
Royal ; or (2) the hilly road (12 miles) which, as described just
above, goes to Kerrykeel, and there turns left, and rises several
hundred fuct over the hills and drops to Lough Swilly ; or
(3) the Main Road to Milford, mentioned p. 366, and thence the
main left turn, which passes the Workhouse and ends along the
shore of Lough Swilly (18^ miles in all).
Rathmullen {Hotel : The Pier) is a picturesque gi'oup, owing
to the fine old ivied ruins of the Carmelite Priory.
The Castle was the home of the MacSwynes, and it was during a visit
here, a twelvemonth before the Spanish Armada, that the famous Red Hugh
O'Donnell was kidnapped by Perrott the Lord Deputy. Bringing up a ship
within sight of the castle, Perrott opened with the neighbouring Irish a
brisk sale of Spanish wines which he had brought. The people at the castle
hearing there was a "run" on such good liquor, sent down a large order.
Perrot found with regi'et that the stock was exhausted, but politely invited
the company to come on board and taste samples of his own private stock.
There was no need to press the invitation, and Red Hugh went down with
the rest. While they were partaking of the good things in the cabin the
hatches were closed down, and in due time the captive guests found them-
RATH MULLEN— F AH AN 369
selves in Dublin Bay. Red Hugh was tliiown into the dungeons of Dublin
Castle, but subsequently succeeded in making his escape.^
Rathmullen is also celebrated as the shore from which started the " Flight
of the Earls" (Tyrone and Tyrconnell) a few years later; a hazardous
voyage which landed tliem e^■entually on the French coast. It was also the
spot where Wolfe Tone embarked in '98.
The Priory, which wa.s begun in the 15th century, with its
picture.sque corner turrets, chimney, and ivy, makes one of the
most striking bits of ruined stonework in Ireland ; to see it at
its best you require sunshine.
[For if'^^T!/ to Fahan (for Londonderry) ; Char-a-hanc to Rosa-
penna and Letterkenny, s&e pink jiages.'l
It is about 2\ miles across the Lough to Fahau (Railway
Station liefreshinent Room) on the opposite shore, and this is the
best way of getting to either Londonderry cr Buncrana. From
Fahau, from which either can be reached by rail, it is 4 miles'
ride to Buncrana.
1 See Donegal Highlands.
24
BUNCRANA.
Railway Station. — (Derry and Lough Swilly Railway) 13 miles from
Deny.
Hotels. — The Lough Swilly ; and Heron's.
Distances. — (Rail) Dublin, 187^ ; Derry, 12 ; Letterkenny, 25 ; Coleraine,
46 ; Portrush, 52 ; (Road) Derry, 14 ; Letterkenny, 20J ; Rosapenna,
25 ; Poitsalon (3J road, 11 steamer), 14| ; Coleraine, 44 ; Portrush, 50i.
No one who stays at Buncrana in good summer weather, when
the scenery may be seen at its best, will regret it. The spot is
charming. Built on a beautiful bend of the winding Swilly —
the "Lough of Shadows" — and engirdled with striking moun-
tains, this bit of Donegal is a treasure of wliich the sons of Erin
may with reason be proud. Close at hand the hills and coasts
of Inishowen are well worth exploring ; and once across the
Swilly, the tourist will find Portsalon, Rosapenna, the scenery
of Mulroy and Sheep Haven, and in fact all the best bits of the
extreme north-west, easily accessible. There are many good
roads for the cyclist, notably that skirting Mulroy Bay.
A walk of 8^ miles will bring you to the top of Slie /e Snacht
(in Inishowen, 2019 feet), one of the most accessible and repay-
ing climbs in the Emerald Isle. From Cock Hill, something
over a mile north of Buncrana, you may go on direct to Dum-
fries Post Oflice, and then climb up ; or take the drier route
along the slopes of the south end of the mountain : to follow
the latter, turn right 2 miles, cross stream and mount up gradu-
ally under the southern spur.
The view is a vast one, extending from the peaks of the
Scottish Arran, north-east (87 miles), to Errigal, south-east (35
miles), making a total line of 122 miles of country! South-
west you can, if clear weather favours you, see the Blue Stacks,
and south-east the Sperrius. The windings of the shimmering
LUUGH S WILLY DISTRICT
H'alker CrBoutallsc,
EXCURSIONS FROM BUNCRANA 871
Swilly are very striking — the best thing we have seen from the
top.
Scalp mountain, south-east (6^ miles), the Urria Uilla near the Gap of
Mamore, north (9 miles), and Danaff Head, north (13 miles), are all easily
accessible, and worth doing.
The Knockalla ("Devil's Backbone") mountains over Portsalon ought to
give a splendid view of the winding Swilly, and the circle of hills in Owen.
There is plenty of good surface for cyclists in Inishowen.
EXCURSIONS FROM BUNCRANA.
In May 1899, Lady Betty Balfour cut the first sod of the new
railway between Buncrana and Carndonagh, destined, doubt-
less, to be of the highest value to the large population of the
Inishowen Peninsula. At the banquet following, Mr. Gerald
Balfour said that "his desire had been to follow in the steps of
his brother in regard to the railway extension policy which he
inaugurated in 1890, in the belief that the first step in im-
proving the material condition of any poor district was to pro-
vide it with communication with the outer world."
To Dunaff Head, lying 13 miles to the north, it is an interest-
ing journey along the west coast, and the road passes over the
Gap of Mamore. Cyclists will have to push hard for a bit up
this (860 feet), pass through the Urris Hills ; and descending
down the north side they must take time. From the pass it is
5i miles on to Dunaff Head (720) feet.
In returning you may vary the route by making an eastern
detour through Clonmany, thence southwards to Dumfries Post
Office, under Slieve Snacht, and so home along the route of the
new railway (28 miles altogether).
For Carndonagh (Hotels : O'Doherty's ; Canning's) trains
now run, following the new road going direct north through
Cock Hill and Dumfries, passing right between the two bits
of Lough Fad, under the northern foot of Slieve Snacht (p. 10),
to the twin streams of Glentoghee and Loughinn, which fall
past Carndonagh to the sandy Trawbeaga Bay.
Carndonagh is now in the proud position of being the most northern
railway station in Ireland.
372 BUNCRANA
There is pleasant cycling to Culdaff (5 milea) on the eastern coast; nnd
also through Malin (3^ miles ; small inn) to Malin Head {inn near at Bally-
gorman, 4 miles) which is 10 miles to the north-west— the "lion" of
(^ardonagh.
For Inishoweu Head, Mo villa and the Lough Poyle shore, see p. 336.
Dr. B. Hull, speaking of the evidences in North Ireland of the " raised
beach," which is the representative of the " 25-feet terrace" of the western
coast of Scotland, writes, "the coast of Inishowen sometimes has a trace of
beach in the form of a terrace in less exposed situations. I have noticed it
at Culmore and Culdaff, rising about 15 feet above the highest tides." The
same geologist points out that when Inishowen was the most northern " snow-
field "during the ice age, "the ice moved down into Lough Swilly, and
ocean wards, between the high grounds which bound the lough." The rocks
of the peninsula belong to tlie same Silurian formation as those of Eastern
Donegal, Tyrone, and Achill.
THE DONEGAL COAST.
{h) From Londonderry.
On page 342 we have given a few notes ou the route through
Letterkeniiy to South Donegal. Cyclists from Derry will pro-
ceed to Letterkenny, and thence turn north as far as Milford,
whether bound for Portsalon or Rosapenua.
Tourists by train, on the other hand, will lind it best to take
the train to Fahan (9 m.) or Buncrana, and thence (1) go by
steamer down the Swilly to Portsalon ; or (2) cross by Ferry
to Rathmullen for Rosapeuna.
The Coast Route will be found done the reverse way between
pages 345 and 370,
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INDEX
The first of several references is the most important.
Numbers of pages on left refer to the maps.
gen. moans General Mop.
Map
page
aiaj
page
Aasleagh, 227
50
Abington, 185
im
m
Achifl, 232
19S
Adare, 189
gen.
gen.
Adrigole, 145
192
lU
Aghada, 112, 115
150
Aghadoe, 152
36/,
Aghla Mountain, 354
Aghrim, 202
50
Ailsa Craig, 31S
J,
Allen, Bog of, 194
gen.
„ Hill of, 93
Alphabet stone, 170
"
S6U
Annagarry Bridge, 358
,,
S92
Annalong, 278
60
Annamoe, 57
Annesley, Earl of, 282, 286
31
zm
Antrim, 297
Apprentice Boys, 320, 322
%k
Aran Island (north), 357
50
19'S
Aran Isles, 209
Ai-butus, 147, 156
1
361,
Ardara, 352
gen.
32S
Ardglass, '281
Ardilaun, Lord, 235
170
ihO
Ardillaun (High) Island, 222
' 3S8
gen.
Ardmore, 121
gen.
370
Ards House, 363
Ardsollus, 191
170
Ardstraw, 328
\3iiS
50
Arklow, 60
J,
328
Armagh, 272. 274
„ Booli of, 274
gen.
Cathedral, 274
. 328
Coast Tour, 315, 318
,,
Hills, 321
.US
J,
See of, 274
3S8
,,
Armoy, 326
,,
Arnold. Matthew, 171
S6U
Ashford (Wicklow), 57, 67
Ashford Cong), 235, 237
Asicus, St., 349
Athassel, 127
Athenry, 193, 203
Athlone, 195
Athy, 133
Auburn, 197
Aughrim (river), 69
., (village and glen).
Austin, Mr. Alfred, 147
Avooa, 63
Avonbeg, 63, 68
Avonmore, 63, 68
Baldoyle, 33
Balfour, Ladv Betty, 371
,, Mr. Gerald, 871
Ballina, 251
Ballinacor, 67
BaUinafad, 251
Ballinasloe, 202
Ballincollig, 148
Ballinskelligs Bay, 167
Ballintober, 240
Ballintoy, 326
Ballybrophy, 95
Ballybunnion, 183
Ballycarbery Castle, 166
Ballycarry, 316
Ballycastle, 323
Ballyclare Junction, 297
Ballydehob, 141
Ballyedmund, 277
Bally hack, 74
Ballylickey, 143
Ballymena, 300
Ballymoney, 300
Ballynacarrick Ferry, 356
374
INDEX
Map
Map
page
pag<'.
no
Ballvnahinch (Recess), 219
gen.
SS8
Ballynahinch (Down), 281
its
Ballyshannon, 250, 840
Ballysodaro, 244
lis
192
Ballyvaughan, 213 i
gen.
328
Ballyvny, 323, 324
S92
Balor, King, 363 i
S6i
gen.
Baltimore, 141 j
Banaghor, 100
„
Bandon, 140
328
S28
Bancor, 281
Banks, Irish, 266
Bann, 301, 335
Bannow, 73
1U5
Bantry, 142
Bay, 143
ihh
Barnesmore Gap, 342, 343 i
Basalt, 308, 311
SI
Beaches, Raised, 324, 372
170
gen.
Bealalaw, 168 1
Bealanagpary, 149
SO
150
Beaufort Bridge 153, 165
31
Beetive Abbev, 44
S70
Belfast, 263, 2*94
,, Banks, 266
,, Botanic Gardens, 269
,, Carlisle Memorial j
Church, 267
City Hall, 268
,, Custom House, 266
150
„ Elmwood Church, 269
292
„ Fitzroy Presbyterian,
"lUS
Church, 269
328
Hotels, 263
370
,, Library, 267
21,6
,, Museums, 267
,, Onuean Bridge, 269
S/,0
,, Post Office, 207
,, Queen's College, 269
St. Peter's Church, 268
,, Steamers, 263
„ Theatres, 269
328
Ulster Hall, 269
3U
S^8
Belfast Lough, 294
372
Bftllarena, 334
m)
Belleek, 250
gen.
Slh
Benbane Head, 310, 836
Benedictines, 100
170
1,
B^ngore Head, 314
gen.
zuo
Bens, The Twelve, 218, 219
,
gen.
Bere, Island of, 142
Bcrehaven, 143, 145
170
Berkeley, Bp., 116, 136
ih
SIS
Bossy Bell, 328
170
Bianconi, 130
gen.
S72
Binevenagh, 334
,,
"Black Hugh," 94
170
.50
Black Rock, 48
150
„ Valley, the, 154
328
IV,
Blackrock Castle, 113
jj
170
Blackwater Bridge (Kerry), 108
„
Blackwater Rivsr, 102, 120, 122,
126
Blarney Castle, 117
„ Lake, 119
Blasket Islands, 170
Bloody Bridge, 278, 289, 290
,, Foreland, 361
Blue Stack Mountains, 342, 353,
337
Bonamargy, 324
Bonaparte, Jerome, 365
Book of Dimnia, 95
„ Kells, 8
,, Lismore, 126
Boycott, Capt., 239
Boyle, 251
Boyne, Battle of the, 40
Bradoge, 339
Brandon Hill, 170
Bray, 50, 302
,, Head, 50, 66
Brendan, St., 170, 171
Brian Born, 32, 188, 191
Brickeen Island, 158
Bridget, St., 284
Briggs, the, 295
Bristol, 121
Brook, Sir Basil, 345
Bruce, Edward, 275, 295
„ Robert, 326
Bryansford, 288
Bunane, 146
Bunbeg, 361
Buncrana, 370
Bundoran, 248, 339
,, Junction, 328
Bundorragh, 22S
Bunglass, 348
Bunrathy Castle, 191
Burghs, the, 295
Burren of Clare, the, 212
Burton Port, 357
Bushmills, 306
Butlers, the, 135
Butler's Bridge, 254
Buttevant, 101
Caha Mountains, 145
C.iher, 127
CahiTdaniel, 168
Caherdorgan, 170
Cahircive'en, 165, 166
Calabber Bridge, 361
Camp, 169
Cape Clear I.sland, 141
Cappoquin, 124
Caragh Lake, 165, 166
Carbery Castle, 194
Carlingford, 278
,, Lough, 276, 277
,, Mountain, 279
INDEX
375
Carlo w, 133
Carndonagh, 336, 871
Carnlough, 319
Carolan the Bard, 251
Carrantuohil, 155, 165
Carrick, 34S
Carrick-a-Rcde, 327
Carrickferi^us, 295
Carrick on Shannon, 252
,, on Snir, 130
Carrigan Head, 348
Carrigart, 305, 360
Carrowkeel, 330
Cashel, 98, 96
,, (Connemara), 219
Castlebar, 241
Castle Caldwell, 340
Castlecomer, 137
Castleconnell, 186
Castlegregory, 169
,, Junction, 169
Castle Howard, 63
,, Kevin, 57
Castlemartyr, 120
Castle Mary, 116
Castlerock, 301
Castles of Kivittar, 292
Castle Upton, 297
Castle wel Ian, 282
Cavan, 254
Cave Hill, 270, 295
Celbridge, 92
Channel Fleet, 142, 145
Characteristics (Munster), 104,
110
Cheekpoint, 132
Chichester Family, the, 296, 318
Churches, small, 222, 249
Cistercians, 98, 112, 132
Claddagh, the, 208
Clady Eiver, 359
Clandeboye, 282
Clanrickarde Castle, 189
Clara, Vale of, 62
Clare, Bun-en of, 212
,, Castle, 191
„ Gal way, 235
,, Island, 231
,, Morris, 241
Clew Bay, 231
Clifden, 221
Cliffs of Moher, 214
Climate, 338
Clondalkin, 92
Clones, 254
Clonmacnois, 199
Clonmany, 371
Clomnel, 129
Clonmines. 73
Clontarf, 32
Clough-More, 297
Map
jpage
S2S
gen.
Clough-a-Stucan, 319
Cloyne, 116
Coaches — Pink Pages
„ (Co. Down), 278
Cock Hill, 370
Coleraine, 301, 335
Collieries, 323, 324
Colman, St., 116
Columba, St., 355, 47, 284, 325,
329, 351, 361
Columba's Bell, 355
Comber, 283
ConallCael, St., 351
Congall, St., 282
Cong, 236
Congreve, 135
}- Connemara, 215
,, Marble, 220
Connor Pass, 169
Conyngham, Marquis of, 346
Cookstown Junction, 283
Cooinakista, 168
Coomdhuv, 155
Cork, 103
,, County of, 101
,, Excursions from, 115
„ Harbour, 112
,, Mayor of, 115
„ Yacht Clnb, 113
Corniac MacAirt, 46
Cormac M'Carthy's Chapel, 99
Coronation stone, 116
Costello, 220
Cotton Industry, 295
Coumenoole, 169
Cove Mountain, 292
Craigagh, 322
Creeping Jlountain, 292
Creesloucjh, 363
Croagh Patrick, 218, 230, 272
Croby Head, 357
Croker, Crofton, 110, 111
Crolly Bridge, 358
Cromwell, 121, 134, 135
Cromwellian Settlement, 330
Cronebane, 64
Crookhaven, 142
Cross of Cong, 125
Crossdoney, 253
Crosses, Early, 361, 362
Crosshaven, 114
Crosstery Bridge, 145
Crotlieve Mountain, 2S2
Croziers, 99, 125
Crumlin River, 208
Culduff, 372
Cnrragh, 93
"Cnrragh" Boats, 363
Curran, the, 317
Cushcndall, 320
376
INDEX
Map
page
Si'S
SUO
150
170
gen.
60
150
170
160
370
31
gen.
'suit
lib
32S
60
gen.
193
50
Cushendun, 322
Cycling, Itilrod. ; 145, 146, 315,
338, 340
Dalkey, 48
Dargle, 51
Davoc, St., 340
De Coiircy, 139, 2S5
Delgany, ti6
Delphi, 228
De Quincey, 230
Derry, 329
Derrybeg, 361
Derrycimihy Falls, 155
Derrynane, 168
Dcrryquin, 168
Derryveigli Mountains, 358
Devil's Backbone, 367, 371
„ bit Mountain, 189
,, Bit Mountains, 96
,, Glen, 56
,, Punch Bowl, 164
Diamond Mountain, 223
Dingle. 169
„ Bay, 166
Dinish Island, 158
Doc^vra, 330
Doe Castle, 363
Dollymount, 33
Dolough's Church, 39
Donaghadee, 282
Donard, St., 290
„ Lodge, 286, 287
Donegal, Coast Tour, 345
,, County, 337
,, Town, 346
Doneraile, 102
Doochary Bridge, 356, 358
Dooish, Sfil
Doonass Falls, 187
Doon Point, 326
Douce Mountain, 53
Do-wn Coast Coaches, 292
Down, Hill of, 194
Downhill, 334
Downpatrick, 283
„ Head, 244
Downshire, Marquis of, 271, 285
Dowth, 42
Drake, 115
Drimoleague, 140, 142
Drogheda, 39
Droiuana Castle, 123
Dromcliff, 192
Dromineer Bay, 189
Drowes River, 339
Drumgoff, 62
Drunisna, 252
Dublin—
Ardilaun, Lord, 10
Art Gallery, National, 15
Mop
page
Dublin—
Aungier St., 23
Bachelors' Walk, 24
Bank of Ireland, 5
Banks, 22
Book of Kells, 8, 47
Botanic Gardens (Glasneviu),
26
Brasses, 13
Bride Street, 29
Broad.stone Station, 26
Car Regulations, 1
Castle, 8
Cavendish, Lord P., 18
Cemetery (Glasnevin), 25
Chapelizod, 18
Christ Church Cathedral, 9
Church, St. Andrew, 30
,, ,, Audoen, 28
,, ,, Augustine, 28
„ „ Catherine, 28
., Francis Xavier,
26
„ „ George, 26
,, ,, James, 28
,, ,, Mary, 27
,, ,, Michael le Pole,
29
,, ,, Michan, 27
,, Werburgh, 29
,, R.C. University, 17
City Hall, 22
Clubs, 16
College Green, 22
Constabulary Barracks, 9
Corn Market, 27
Custom House, 20
Dame Street, 22
Drumcondra, 26
Dunsink, 26
Education Board, 20
Bmmett, Robert, 28
Exchequer Street, 29
Father Mathew, 20
Fishamble Street, 29
Fitzgerald, Lord E., 27, 28, 29
Four Courts, 24
Freeman's Journal, 28
Glasnevin 'Village and Ceme-
tery, 25
Gold Ornaments, Celtic, 15
Grafton Street, 21
Grattan Bridge, 24
,, Statue, 22
Great George Street (South),
29
Great Ship Street, 29
Guinness, Sir B. L., 11
Quinness's Brewery, 24
Handel, 27, 29
"Hell," 29
INDEX
377
Map
DnWin—
Uemans, Mrs., 21
History, 'A
Hoey's Court, 29
Hotels, 1
Kildare Street, 21
Kiliuainham Gaol, 28
,, Eoyal HosDital,
28
King's BridgP, 24
King's Inn, 27
Knockmaroon, IS, 19
Leinster Lawn, Hi
Libraries, 13, 14
Lucan, 18 i
Mansion House, 21 i
Market, Fruit, 27
„ South, 29
Marlborough Barracks, IS j
Merrion Street, 21 !
Military Hospital, 28 \
Jloore, Thomas, 20, 23 1
Momington House, 21 '
Jluseuni, National, 13
Nelson's Jlonument, 19
Newman, Cardinal, 17
O'Connell Bridge, 19, 20
,, Statue, 19, 25
Ordnance Survey Office, 13
People's Park, 17
Phoenix Park, 17
Police, 4, 9
Post Office, 19
Powerscourts, 30
Roe, Mr. H., 10
Roman Catholic Cathedral, 20
,, „ University, 17
Rotunda, 25
Royal Barracks, 24
,, College of Science, 17
,, ,, of Surgeons, 17
,, Dublin Society, 13
,, Hospital, Kilmainham,
28
,, Irish Academy, 21
Rutland Square, 25
St. Andrew Street, 30
St. Patrick's Cathedral, 11
„ Street, 23
Well, 3, 13
St. Stephen's Green, 16
St. Vincent's Hospital, 17
Schoraberg, 12
Schoolhouse Lane, 29
Sheridan, 27
Shopping, 5
Sirr, Major, 28
Stations, Railway, 1
Statues, 4, 22
Steevens s Hospital, 25
"Stella," 11, 25
Map
page
Dublin-
Stocks, 10
Strawberry Gardens, 18
Strongbow, 10
Swift, Dean, 12, 29
Swift's Hospital, 25
'I'andy, Napper, 29
Tara Brooch, 14
'riieatres, 22, 30
Tholsel, 10
Thomas Street, 27
lYams, ], 19
Trinity College, 6
Viceregal Lodge, 18
Wellington's Birthplace, 21
,, Monument, 18
Werburgh Street, 29
Wesleyan College, 17
Whitworth Bridge, 27
Zoological Gardens, 18
Duire, 273
Duleek, 44
Dunadry, 297
Dun Aengus, 211
Dunaff Head, 371, 307
Dunalk, 274
Dun-a-maise, 94
Dunboy, 145
Dunbrody, 132
Duncannon, 74
Dundrum, 285
Dunfanaghy, 362, £66
Dungloe, 339, 357
Dunlewy, 358, 359
Dunloe Castle, 153
Gap of, 153
Dunluce Castle, 303
Dunmore, 132
,, Head, 352
Dunsany, 47
Dunseverick, 310, 314
Eagle's Nest, 157
Edgeworth, Maria, 2.^2
Edgeworthstown, 252
Eglinton, 335
Ely Lodge, 254, 256, 340
Emania, Palace of, 272
Ennis, 192
Enniscorthy, 71
Enniskerrv. 52
Enniskillen, 255, 32S, 310
Ennistymon, 214
Erriff Bridge, 227
Errigal, 337, 359
Fahan, 169
Fahan, 369
Fair Head, 324
Palcarragh, 361
Fanad Head, S67
Faraham, 254
378
INDEX
Farranfore Junction, 166
Fergus, 295
Fermoy, 126
Ferns, 71
Fethard, 74, 100
Pin MacCoul, 307, 357
Finn River, 32^'
Fintragh House, 347
Fishing, 187, 188, 194, 196, 206,
219, 220, 227, 306, 323, 339, 845,
34(5, 34S, 352, 355, 857, 359, 365
Fitzijeralds, the, 182, 241
Float Roarl, 253
Four Masters, the, 345
Foxford, 242
Foyle, the, 329
Foy Slountain, 279
P'ranciscaiis, 121
Fresh ford, 137
Frobisher, 170
Gaddagh River, 165
Gallerus, 170
"Gallowglasses," 347
Galway, 205
,, Bay, 209
Ganiainore, 366
Garinish Island, 168
Gaira Valley, 149
Garron Point, 319
Tower, 319
Gartan Lough, 354
Gearhainecn, 153, 155, 165
Geology, Introd., etc.
Gerah Cross, 168
Giant's Amphitheatre, 312
,, Causeway, 307, 310
,, Cradle, 316
,, Organ, 309
,, Ring, 270
„ Well, 311
Gill Abbey, 109
Gillaroo, 340
Giiickell, 177, 196
Glandore, 141
Glanleani, 1G6
Glasnevin, 25
Glen (North), 364
,, Head, 351
,, of the Downs, 55
,, Veigh, 35S
Glena Bay, 159
Glenaan Valley, 320
Glenacoppal, 105
Glenarift- Falls, 320, 321
Glen.irm, 318
Glenbeigh, 166
Glenbrock, 112, 113
Glencar, 168
247
Glencolumbkille (or Glen), 851
Map
page
50
ih
328
lis
50
32S
S6U
2U0
Glencree, 53
Glendalough, 58
Glendowan Hills, 355
Glendun, 322
Glengariffe, 144, 145
Glengesh Pass, 352
Glenmalure, 67
Glenoe, 306, 318
Glens, the, 320, 321
Glenshesk Valley, 326
Gleuties, 341, 353
Glin, 182
Glynn, 316
Gobban Saer, 326
Gold, 65
Goldsmith, 198, 252
Goleen, 141, 143
Golf, 302, 323, 365, 367
,, Dublin, 33
Goold'8 Cross, 98, 100
Gort, 192
Gouganebarra, 149
Gowla fishery, 219
Grace O'Malley, 231
,, ,, (Granuaile), 35
Gracehill, 300
Grange, 248
Great Island, 112, 114
Great Newtown Head, 132
Greenan Bridge, 67
Greencastle (Carlingford), 295
,, (Inishowen), 336
Greenore, 279
Grey Abbey, 285, 293
„ Man's Path, 325
Greystones, 66
Grianan of Aileach, 335
Gulf Stream, 338
Gweebarra Valley, 356
Gweedore, 358, 359
Hall, S. C, 162
Hall, Mrs. S. C, 822, 325
Hamilton, Dr., 309, 313, 314
Hare's Gap, 291
Haulbowline, 114
Hazelhatch, 92
Headford, 235
Helen's Tower, 282
"Hereward the Wake," 131, 132
High (Arilillaun) Island, 222
Hill, Lord George, 359
Hillsborough, 271
Hogan, 109, 110, 134
Holy Cross Abbey, 96
Holywood, 281
Hore Abbey, 100
Horn Head, 337, 361, 362, 366
Howth, 33
Hugh Roe, 344, 345
INDEX
379
Map Map
naoe page
"IlchesterOak," the, 186 I 50
lien Valley Railway, 141
Incliagoil, 235 | 32S
Inchigeelah, 149 I 36'i
Inchiquin lore, 116
Iniscaltra, 18S
Inishowen, 335, 338 170
,, Head, 336 r;en.
Inishtookert, 170 170
Inismnrray, 249 32S
Inistioge, 75 SO
Innisfallen, Annals of, 161 193
,, Island, 161
lunishannon, 140
limy Junction, i:53 50
Inver, 346
Ireland's Bye, 34 gen.
Irish Industries, 352, 353
Jerpoint Abbey, 75
137
Johnson, Dr., 117
Jordanstown, 295 170
Joyce Country, the, 227 370
Kate Kearney's Cottage, 153
KMinianeigh, 149 21,6
Kells (Kilkenny), 138
„ Bay (Kerry), 166
,, Book of, 8, 47, 274, 355 SW
,, (Meath), 47
,, Synod of, 274
Kenbane, 326
Kenmare, 146
,, House, 151
,, Lord, 151
Kerry " Paps," the, 162
Kevin Castle, 57
,, St., 59, 328 103
Kilhroney, 277 21,0
Kilculman Castle, 102
Kilooole, 66 211,
Kilcrea, 148
Kilcununin, 169
Kildare, 93 50
Kildysart, 182 SUO
Kilgobban, 169 36/,
Kilkeo, 182, 184
Kilkeol, 277, 278 SI
Kilkenny, 134 370
Killabeg, 235 372
Killala, 244 177
Killaloe, 187 gen.
Killamey, 150
„ Lakes of, 151, 155
,, Lower Lake, 158 311,
., Middle Lake, 158 15
,, Upper Lake, 155
,, Routes to, 138, 145.
146, 148
Killery, Great, 225
Killiney Hill, 49
Killonan, 185
Killowen, 278
Killybegs, 347
Kilmacanogue, .53
Kilmacrenan, 355, 361, 366
Kilmalkedar, 170
Kilmallock, 101
Kilmore, 169
Kilroot, 315
Kilruddery, 51
Kilrush, 182, 184
Kingsley, Chas., 131, 132, 170,
171
Kingstown, 48
Kinkora, 188
Kinsale, 139
„ Head of, 140
Kippure, 93
,, Mountain, 54
Kirke, General, 330
Knights of Kerry, 166
Kuightstown, 166
Knockalla Mountains, 867, 368,
371
Knocklayd, 316
Knocknarea, 248
Knowles, Sheridan, 104
Knowth, 43
Kylemore, 225
Lackagh Bridge, 364
Laggan River, 264
Lannan River, 355
Laracor, 45
Laragh, 58
I/ame, 316
Lavde 321
Lee River, 103, 104, 148, 149
Leenan", 226
Le Fanu, Mr. W. R,, 176, 1S6, 364
Lehinch, 214, 302
Leighton, Sir F., 340, 348
Ijeitrim, Lord, 365
Leopardstown, 93
Letterfrack, 223
Lotterkcnny, 342, 368
Lever, Charles, 801
Lia Fail, 46
Lifford, 329
Limavady, 334
Limerick, 176
Limerick Junction, 101, 127
Linen Industry, 264, 268
Ijisburn, 271
Lisdoonvarna, 213
Li.smore, 125
Lisnacree, 278
Lissoy, 197
Londonderry, 329
,, Siege of, 330
380
INDEX
iMap
Map
THige
page
Jjongford, 252
223
193
Loo]) Head, 185
I.ouKh Altan, 359
"
36U
„ Anure, 358
358
„ Barra, 358
50
., Bray, 54
170
„ Caragh, 165, 166
ns
,, Conn, 242
328
m
,, Cork, 111
150
SS6
,, Corrib, 234, 238
S23
,. Cranagh, 325
SO
,, Dan, 54, 55
66
,, Derevaragli, 194
gen.
19S
,, Derg, 188, 340, 345
,,
2!t0
,, Doo, 228
,, Dunlewy, 359
,, Eask (Bske), 339, 342, 345,
S6U
353
328
,, Eiinel (Belvidere), 194
292
, , Erne, 340
328
257
,, ,, Lower, 255
36U
U6
,, ,, Upper, 257
372
„ Paddha, 220
31
370
,. Fern, 368
370
S6lt
.. Finn, 354
372
,. Foyle, 334
370
.. Gartan, 354, 339, 360
2U0
2U6
., Gill, 246
gen.
ISO
., Guitane, 165
373
gen.
„ Gur, 101
130
SAO
,, Inagh, 219, 221
19S
Inchiquin. 192
103
., Key, 251
31
370
,, Lagha, 359, 361
gett.
328
Larne, 316
150
,, Leane, 158
,j
Looscaunagli, 147
328
223
.. Mask, 239
50
„ Melvin, 339, 310
150
. . Mourne, 342
31
,, Muck, 224
ie)i.
,, Nacung, 359
Ilk
zm
Nafooey, 227
370
328
., Neagh, 297
50
370
., of Shadows, 370
21U
,, Owel, 194
gen.
,, Kee, 197
ij
„ Salt, 364
,, Shielan, 194
,,
.. Swilly, 338, 367, 370
21h
50
,, Tay, 54
uo
,, Ton yard, 226
gen.
36U
Tjoughros Point, 352
SI
2Uii
Louisburgh, 229
gen.
Lover's Leap, 52
lilt
Ludlow, General, 163
50
Luggala Lodge, 54
Lugnaqnilla, 68
S70
328
Lurgan, 272
Lurigethan, 321
gen.
SI
Lusk, 39
Maam Cross, 227
,, ,, Station, 217
Mab (or Meave), Queen, 45, 197.
216, 248
Macaulay, Lord, 110
MacBracken, St., 349
MacDonnells, the, 804, 321, 324
Mactin Junction, 300
Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 146, 155,
165
Maclise, 104
Macmine Junction, 72, 74
Macroom, 148
Route, 13S, 148
MacSwine (MacSweeuoy), 347,
363
MacSwyue's guu, 262, 368
Magee Island, 316
Maggie's Leap, 290
Maghera (County Down), 282
(Ardara), 352
Magilligau Strand, 334
Malahide, 37
Malin Head, 372
,, Beg, 350
,, More, 350
Mallaranny, 232
Mallow, 102, 138
Mamore, Gap of, 371
Mangerton, 146, 164
Manulla, 241
Mardyke, the, 105
Marino, 32
Maryborough, 94
Mathew, Father, 105, 109
Meelagh, 251
Meenaboll Hill, 354, 361
Meeting of the Waters, 63
,, 158
Mellifont Abbey, 42
Metal Man, the, 132
Midleton, 120
Milford, 338
Military Road, 68
Miltown Malbay, 214
Miskish Mountains, 168
Mitchelstown, 128
Mizen Head, 141
Moate, 195
Moher Cliffs, 214
Moira O'Neill, 822
Molana, 122
Monaster boice, 41
Monasterevau, 94
Monkstown. 113
Moore, Thomas, 20, 23, 64
Moross Ferry, 366, 368
Mount Charles, 346
,, Melleray, 124
,, Sandell, 301
Mountain Oratories, 170, 290, 349
INDEX
881
Mountain Stage, 166
Mountains, 289, 338, 360
Mountjoy, the, 330
Mourne Mountains, 289
„ River, 328
Mouse Island, 162
Moville, 336, 372
Moyard, 223
Moycullen, 216
Moyne, 244
M'Quillans, the, 304
Muckish, 136, 363
,, Gap, 361
Muckross Abbey, 163
„ Market House, 347
„ Village, 163
Mulgrave Barracks, 147
Mnlliugar, 194
llulroy Bay, 337, 870
Multifarnham, 253
Murlough, 325
Murrisk, 229
Mweelrea, 223, 228
Myrtle Grove, 121
Naas, 93
Narin, 352, 364
Narrow Water Castle, 276
Navan, 44
„ Fort, 272
Neniedh, 114
Newbridge, 93
Newcastle, 286
New Grange, 43
Newmarket on Fergus, 191
Ne wrath, 67
New Ross, 74
Newry, 275
Newton Cimiiinghain, 342
Newtonards, 292
Newtown Butler, 254
Newtown Mount Kennedy, 66
Newtownstewart, 328
Nick of the Bar, 352
Nore River, 136
O'Connell (The Liberator), 168
O'Connor, Bory, 237
O'Donnells, 341, 346
O'Donoghue, the, 159
O'Kanes, the, 314
Olderfleet Castle, 316, 317
Old Man's Path, 349
Old Weir Bridge, 158
Olphert Estate, 361
Omagh, 328, 341
Onieath, 278
O'Neill, Hugh. 335
O'Neills, the, 299, 328, 861
Oratories, Ancient, 167, 170
Ossian'a grave, 322
Map
page
lo'u
U5
SlU
gen.
\U5
1 gen.
\l50
370
O'Sullivan's Cascade, 160
Otway, Cuisar, 171
Oughterard, 217
Ovoca, 63
Owen Roe, 363
Owenstocker River, 352
Owenwee River, 351, 358
Owvane River, 143
Paddy's Milestone, 318
Palace East, 74
Palseolithic remains, 299, 315
Parkmore, 320
Parknasilla, 168
Passage, 113
Patrick, Saint, 272, 46, 283, 234,
286, 300, 340
Patrick's I3ell shrine, 274
,, Purgatory, 341
Perrott, 368
Pleaskin Head, 309, 313
Poisoned Glen, the, 358
Portadown, 272
Portarlington, 94
Port Ballintrae, 306
Portcoon cave, 309
Portfad, 314
Portmagee, 166
Portnoffer Bay, 312
Portrush, 302
Portsalon, 367
Portstewart, 301
Portunma, 189
Poteen, 364
Powerscourt, 52
Priest Leap, 143
Prince Charlie, 351
Prince of Wales Route, 139
Prout, Father, 108, 110, 118
Pnrple Mountain, 153
Queen's Colleges, 269, 109, 208
Queenstown, 112, 113
Quin Abbey, 191
Race-courses, 93
Raheny, 33
Railway, the "Abandoned," 190
Ruin. 338
Raleigh, Sir Vv., 93, 115, 121, 124,
126, 170
Ramelton, 368
Ram's Island, 299
Randalstown, 300
Raplioe, 341
Rathdrum, 03
Rathlin Island, 325, 336
Rathmullen, 368
Rathnew, 56, 66
Rawross Ferry, 366, 368
382
INDEX
Map
page
Raymond le Qros, 122, 133
Recess, 21T, 218
Red Bay, 319
„ Castle, 336
,, Deer, 339
Redgap, 182
" Red Hand," the, 299
Red Hugh, 344, 308
" Red Knight," tlie, 182
Reeks, the, 146, 155, 165
Renvyle, 224, 227
Rhiucrew, 122
Ringaskiddy, 113
Roaring Meg, 332
Roaring-water Bay, 141
Roches Point, 115
Roden, Lord, 275, 282, 286
Romanesque Ai'chitecture,
161
Rosapenna, 364, 365
Roscommon, 175, 240
Roscrea, 95
Roserk, 243
Ross Castle, 162
,, Island, 162
Rossdohan, 168
Rosses, the, 357, 358
Rosslare, 72
Rostellan, 115
Rostrnvor, 276, 278
Roundstone, 220
Round Tower, Introd. ; 183
Roundwood, 53, 55
Runatiay Head, 323
Runkerfy cave, 309
St. Brendan, 171
,, Bridget, 93
,, Canice, 135
,, Carthagh, 125
,, Coluniba, 355
,, Cronan, 95
,, Declan, 121
,, Enda, 209
,, Fachnan, 122
,, Feichan, 222
,, Finian, 107
,, Finn Barr, 103, 106, 149
,, John's Point, 347
,, Kieran, 199
,, Macdara's Island, 220
,, Mochcallog, 101
,. Molaise, 249
., Multose, 140
„ Patrick, 272
,, Peter and !St. Paul, 45
„ Ruth, 195
Sally Gap, 54
Salruck, 227
Salt hill, 48
» 208
99,
Maj
page
Sarsfield, 177
Saul, 284
S70
Scalp Mountain, 371
192
Scattery Island, 183
Scenery, 144, 146, 147, 165, 168,
215, 218, 221, 247, 320, 337 ,
gen.
Schul!, 141
50
Scott, f^ir Walter, 59, 119, 179, 262,
806, 320, 336
3S8
Scrabo Hill, 293 \
no
Screeb Bridge, 219 '
Sea-fowl, 362
S70
Seven Ai'ches, 367
50
,, Churches, 58
lOS
Shandon Church Bells, 108
S3S
Shane's Castle, 299
Shannon Bridge, 191
The, 188, 190, etc. '?
fishing, 187, 188 ',',
Sheep Haven, 363 .'•
370
Shelton Abbey, 69 a
SlU
Shepherd s Path, 312 fi
31
Shillelagh, 69 5!
S92
Shimna River, 282 g
328
Shrule River, 328, 341 B
" Silken Thomas," 137 -A
Silver Hill, 353 *
gen.
Skellig Rocks, 166, 167 «
Skerries, 39 £
SI
the, 306 8
gen.
Skibbereen, 141 1
66
Sl^reen, 47 1
31
Sl.-iney, River, 68 f
50
Slane, 43 •
170
Slea Head, 169 ^
36h
Sliemish, 300 ^
328
Slieve, Ban, 277 \
,, Beniagh, 291 1
29S
,, Bingian, 291 ;
gen.
,, Bloom Mountains, 95
292
,, Coramedagh, 292
,j
„ Donard, 289
gen.
„ League, 337, 348
372
,, Snacht (Inishowen), 370
36/,
,, „ (Gweedore), 360 i
gen.
Slievenaman, 130
26U
Sligo, 245
170
Smerwick Harbour, 170
1U5
Snave Bridge, 143
170
Sneem, 168
Snowfields, Ancient, 264, 360
Sorley Boy, 323, 324, 326
Sorrento, 49
Spenser, 101, 102, 104, 134
SpeiTin Hills, 328 •'
223
Spiddle, 220
m
Spike Island, 114
Stag Rocks, 357
170
Staigue Fort, 167
"Stella," 116
Stei-ne, Lawrence, 57, 129
INDEX
383
I stills, 364
S70 Strabane, 328, 311
no Stradbally, 169
gen} Strancally, 123
S^S Strangford, Lough, 285
S6U Stranorlar, 341
Stranraer, 317
Strongbow, 135
Struell Wells, 284
Sturrall Rock, 351
gen. Sugarloal' (Kerry), 143, 145
50 „ Great, 51, 53, 55
Little, 51
Sutton, 83
Swift, Dean, 12, 29, 45, 130, 140,
315
31 Swords, 39
170 Sybil Head, 170
Tara, 45
,, (Wexford), 71
Taylor, Jeremy, 271
170 \ Telegraph Cable, 166
S6i, Templebreaga, 362
gen. Temple Michael, 122
,, Templemore, 96
SiS I Templepatrick, 297
Thackeray, 104, 158, 308, 319, 334
Thomastowu, 138
Thurles, 96
Tieveballiagh, 321
Tieveraigh, 322
50 Tinnehiuch House, 52
gen. Tipperary, 127
' ' Tollymore, 282, 288
SW Toombet.la Bridge, 219
Toorae Bridge, 299
150 Tore Cascade, 164
„ Lake, 158
Silt Ton- Head, 313
Tory Island, 362
170 Tralee, 169
gen. Tramore, 132
Trappists; 124
S6/, Trawbeage Bay, 371
"Treaty Stone," 177, 205
51 Trim, 44
SSIS i Tuam, 204
I Tubber, 192
Map
page
Tully Cross Roads, 224
145 Turner's Rock, 146
Ulster (Ulidia), 335
Ulster Plantation, the, 328, 330
Under-sea Railway, 317
Urrisbeg, 220
Urris Hills, 366, 371
170 Valentia Island, 105, 16G
Vartry, 66
Ventry, 109
gen. Villierstown, 123
66 Vinegar Hill, 72
Volcanoes, 308, 324
Walker, Rev. George, 330
SS8 Warrenpoint, 276, 278
Waterfoot, 320
gen. Waterford, 75, 131, 128
,, County, 130
50 Waters, Meeting of, C3
170 Waterville, 165, 166, 107
,, Promontory, 165
Westmeath Lakes, 194
?,?5 Westport, 229
66 Wexford, County, 71
,, town, 72
Whales, 142
1^5 Whiddy Island, 143
Whisky, 301, 306
Whiteabbey, 295
White Castle, 336
Whitehead, 315
White Lady, the, 319
,, i ,, House, 295
„ ' „ Park Bay, 327
SlU „ Rocks, 303
50 Wicklow, 66
William III., 265, 271, 295
Wind, 338, 301
Window Tracery, 97. 103
Wolfe, Kev. Chas., 115
„ Tone, 343, 369
Wooden Bridge, 65
Wray, William, 303
gen. Youghal, 120
Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh,
ADVERTISEMENTS.
Hotels arranged Alphabetically according to Locality.
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APERIENT
FOB REGULAR USE.
2 AI3KRK0YI,E — ARISAIG AVIEMORE. J
ABERFOYLE. !
BAILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL.!
FIRST-CLASS accommodation for Visitors. Coaches to and from the |
Trossachs daily in connection with Steamer on Loch Katrine. Boats i
on Loch Ard and Loch Chon for Fishing and Pleasure. Billiards. Golf, |
Lawn Tennis. Posting. Garage. ;
Aberfoyle Railway Station. Post and Telegraph Offices two mintUen' l
Walk from Hotel. ,
A. BLAIR, Prv^rietor. \
ARISAIG. I
ARISAIG HOTEL. j
THIS Hotel has been entirely rebuilt, and now contains magnificent Dining and \
Drawing Rooms, and a Spacious Entrance Hall. The Bedrooms are airy and )
well lighted. The Lavatories and Sanitary arrangements have been carried out on \
the most improved principles. The entire Hotel has been luxuriously refurnished. ,'
Arisaig is reached by the West Highland Railway ; it is on the Northern shore of
Loch na Oeiltein on the Western seaboard. It is beautifully wooded, with good roads
in all directions for walking or driving.
Day Train and Steamboat Excursions. 9-hole Golf Course about \ m. from Hotel.
Boating. Pleasure Drives to Prince Charles' Cave, Lochmorar, Loch-nan-Uamh, &c.
Boots meets all Trains. Post and Telegraph Office close to the Hotel.
MALCOLM MACLURE, L«s««.
THE AYIEMORE STATION HOTEl7
AVIEMORE, STRATHSPEY,
stands on rock high above the River Spey overlooking the Rothiemurchus Pine
Forests to the Cairngorm Mountains in the background.
2 New Motor Garages with 10 Separate Stalls each.
Inspection Pit. Petrol Supplied.
Private Oolf Course with resident Professional and Coacb.
TENNIS AND CROQUET LAWNS. FISHING.
For all information and tariff apply to Mr. W. H. LEGGB, Managtr.
Electric Ldght and Elevator.
No Angler can afford to be larithout these Two Books.
i uniif -rn riou I ^^ WILLIAM EARL HODGSON, containing 8 Full-page
! HOW TO FISH Illustrations, and IS smaller Engravings in the Text.
I Large crown 8vo. cloth. Price 3s. 6d. net (by Post 3s. lOd.).
The Scotsman says — " flow to Fish will instruct the novice and interest the veteran fisherman, who
will find iu it no naere dry-as-dnst discussion of elementary principles of the ait. but an entertaining
trentise upon many points which have been dealt with rather perfunctorily by other writei's."
By W. C. STEWART. New Edition, containing
an Introduction by William Earl Hodg-
son, and including coloured facsimiles of the
Flies used by Mr. Stewart. Large crowa
THE PRACTICAL ANGLER
OR THE ART OF TROUT FISHING
MORE PARTICILAHLV APPLIED TO „ i ^t, t> • o oj i /u n i.
CLEAR WATER ' °^'°' ^^'oth. Price 3s. 6d. net (by Post
3s. lOd.).
The Standard says—" Every page is filled with valuable information, and one old angler to whom ve
read selections stated it to be the best advice he had ever heard." .
Published by ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 Soho Squabe London W«J
And obtainable through any Bookseller. \
AYR BALLATER BARMOUTH.
AYR.
STATION HOTEL, AYR.
Adjoins the Station and is witliin a lev/ n: mutes' walk from the sea. Con-
venient for Burns Cottage (birthplace), and lovely Ayrshire district.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. LOUNGE. GOOD COOKING.
Fo7' Descriptive Tariff, apply Resident Manager, or to
J. H. THOMAS, Manager,
Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company's Hotels.
Also Station Hotels, Tumberry ; and Dumfries; and St. Enoch Hotel, Glasgow.
BALLATER (near BALMORAL).
LOIRSTON HOTEL.
First-class residential, under the personal management
of Mr. and Mrs. G. T. Lamond.
New Recreation Pavilion and Large Garden opposite.
Special Boarding Terms. Posting in all its branches.
Golfing, Tennis, and Bowling.
Garag^e Pit, and Petrol near. Telegrams— LOIRSTON, Ballater.
BARMOUTH, N. WALES.
The Riviera of tlie United Kingdom. Summer and Winter Residence.
THE CORS-Y-GEDOL HOTEL, THE MARINE HOTEL,
ST. ANN'S MANSIONS (Ppivate Boarding House).
All facing the sea with a south-west aspect.
Specially reduced charges for the Winter Months, October to June inclusive.
GOLF LINKS. TARIFF ON APPLICATION.
P.O. Telephone— No. 2.
4 BARMOUTH BATH BKLFAST.
BARMOUTH, NORTH WALES.
GLENGAIRN (first-glass) PENSION.
r^HARMINGLY situated overlooking Bay. Commands unrivalled Sea
and Mountain Views. Excellent Cooking. Liberal Table. Open
all the Year. Coaching and Motor Trips organised. The Most Comfort
able Holiday Home in North Wales.
Illustrated Tariff on Application.
Telegrams, "Glencairn." Proprietress, Mrs. HERBERT DENNIS.
P.O. Tel. No. 23 Barmouth.
BATH.
ROYAL HOTEL.
"PIRST-CLASS Family Hotel. Newly Decorated. All Modern Im-
-^ provements. Passenger Lift to all Floors, Private Garage with
Pit adjoining Hotel. Noted for First-Class Cuisine.
Telegrams: " Primus, Bath. " Telephone: "125, Bath."
Personal supervision by the Proprietress —
■» Mrs. J. B. HUGHES.
Also CoBOURG Hotel, Tenby, S. Wales.
BELFAST.
THE WAVERLEY HOTEL,
ALBERT SQUARE (Opposite Fleetwood Steamer Landing).
Most central for Commercial Gentlemen and Tourists, being convenient
to arrival and departure of Cross-Channel Steamers and Business Centre
of City. First-Class. Economical. Comfortable. Stock Room added.
Night Boots. A. M. WOOD, Proprietress.
"Tdland station hotel,
BELFAST.
{Under the. Management of llie Midland Railway Company.)
Most comfortable and convenient Hotel in Belfast.
Beautifully furnished. Electric light throughout.
First-class Cuisine. Moderate charges.
Telegraphic Address : " Midotel, Belfast." Telephone, No. 1302.
F. AUDINWOOD, Manaoer.
Midland Railway, Northern Counties Committee's Hotel.
BEXHILL-ON-SEA BIDEFORD BOURNEMOUTH. f
BEXHILL-ON-SEA.
GRANVILLE HOTEL.
FIEST- CLASS, WELL-APPOINTED FAMILY HOTEL.
Inclusive Terms from 3 Guineas weekly. Saturday to Monday, 21/-
Telephone 437 Bexhlll. For Particulars apply to Manager.
BIDEFORD.
THE LEADING HOTEL.
ROYAIi HOTEL.
Central for Clovelly, Westward Ho ! and all N. Devon.
FIRST-CLASS Family and Residential Hotel. Entirely New Management. Strictly
Moderate Terras. Fine Palm Court Lounge. Electric Light and every Modern
Convenience. Large Garage. Motor Cars and Carriages lor hire. Large Day
^Parties catered for in special rooms. Apply MANAGERESS.
BOURNEMOUTH.
BOURNEMOUTH HYDROPATHIC.
Ozonated Sun Lounge facing Sea, Pines, and Promenade.
SITUATED in by far the prettiest position on West Cliff, amongst
pines and magnificent scenery. Near Winter Gardens, Pier, Golf
Links, and best bathing part of Beach. Carlsbad, Vichy, etc. Waters.
Resident Physician. Massage : Nauheim, Light, and Electric Baths.
N.B. — Turkish, Sea- Water Baths, Billiards, and Gymnasium Free.
"High Frequency Installation." Telegrams: " Hydro, Bournemouth."
Book to Bournemouth West. Prospectus from Secretary.
BOURNEMOUTH.
Homes for Paying Patients and
Institute for Trained Nurses.
Twenty-four Beds, from 3^ guineas to 5 guineas ; also Eight Beds (two
beds in a room) at 42/- a week. Full Trained Nurses supplied for
Medical, Surgical, Maternity, Massage, Electricity, Fever, and Mental
cases, from ij to 4 guineas per week.
Apply: MISS FORREST, Matron, Cambridge Road.
Telegraphic Addresa: "Nightingale, Bournemouth." Telephone No 102.
6 BRIDGE OF ALLAN BRIGHTON BUNDORAN.
BRIDCxE OF ALLAN.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN
HYDR
EVERY HOME COMFORT.
Resident Physician — Dr. C. F. STEELE.
EFFICIENT BATH ATTENDANTS.
GOLF. TENNIS. FISHING. BILLIARDS.
GARAGE.
Tariff from 52s. 6d. per week, or 17s. per week end.
BRIGHTON.
REGENCY HOUSE.
30 AND 31 REGENCY SQUARE.
BEST POSITION. ENLARGED. REDECORATED.
EXCELLENT CUISINE. TERMS MODERATE.
Telephone 4838 Brighton. Proprietress— Uiii>i VINCENT.
BUNDORAN, IRELAND.
THE CENTRAL HOTEL j
(Late SWEENY'S). I
THIS Hotel is beautirully situated, overlooking the sea, and combines ,
all tlie requirements of a First-Class Hotel, having been enlarged, j
refurnished, and lighted by Electricity throughout.
Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Moderate Charges. Free Salmon and 1
Trout Fishing. Golf Links 2 minutes' walk from Hotel.
TOM GORMAN, Proprietor. Telegrams: CENTRAL HOTEL, Bimdoran.
BUNDORAN BUSHEY.
BUNDORAN, Go. DONEGAL
THE GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL.
OWNED AND MANAGED BY THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY CO. (IRELAND).
Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water
Baths (hot or cold).
Bxcelleat Eighteen-bole Golf Links on Hotel Grounds,
Free to Visitors staying at t lie Hotel.
Croquet ; Tennis. Lake, River, and Sea Fishing ; Coaching ; Sea
Bathing. Motor accommodation. The Hotel commands fine views
of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring mountain ranges.
For terms, apply to the Manager at the Hotel.
1911. Telegraphic Address— " NORTHERN, BUNDORAN."
BUSHEY, HERTS. (16 miles from Euston.)
TTOT 1C1 ^WJ[ Jf T T
xl Jj^ rk A 1j jLj.
MAGNIFICENT COUNTRY
MANSION HOTEL.
— 100 Room*. —
Charming Summer and
Winter Country Residence.
By Day or Week. First-class
fully-licensed Hotel standing
in beautiful Park of 120 acres.
Fine Golf Links (18 holes)
in Park facing the Hotel.
Famous Bromo - Iodine
Wateis and Baths for cure of
Rheumatism, Gout, Neuritis,
etc.
Turkish Baths, Swimming
and ordinary baths FREE.
Tennis, Croquet, and Putting Green.
For illustrated Tariff apply— H. G. A. THIMM.
Telegrams: "Welcome, Watford." Telephone: 17 Watford.
BUXTON CAHIRCIVEEN.
BUXTON HYDRO HOTEL,
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
260 ROOMS.
A sumptuously appointed Hotel on entirely modern lines.
All Hydropathic and Electric Baths.
"RADIUM" Water Treatment for Diabetes, Bright's
Disease, etc.
Overlooking Gardens. Near Golf Links and Mineral
Baths. Amusements every evening.
ORCHESTRA. Garage adjoining.
Telegrams—" Comfortable."
Telephone— Nos. 211 and 212.
O. W. BOSWORTH, Manager.
BUITON, DERBYSHIRE.
Firot-Olass Botrding Eatabliihment
The finest position in Baiton.
Electric Light,
Billiarda.
Four
minates' walk from
Baths, Garden, Churche*.
Stations, etc. Table d'Hdt«, 7.0 p.m.
SEPARATE TABLES.
Nat. Tel. 481. Telegrams— BALMORAL, BUXTON.
Mrs. lee, Proprietress.
CAHIRCIVEEN.
(The Kerry Highlands).
LESLIE'S HOTEL.
A Homo iioin Home. Shooting, Fisliing, Boating, Bathing. Petrol
stocked. Garage. Most central for Excursions to Waterville, Valentia,
Caragh Lake, etc. Tariff moderate. Apply to
W. J. LESLIE, Proprietor.
CAMBRIDGE CARBIS BAY — CARLISLE. 9
BOWES & BOWES,
PUBLISHERS,
CANTABRIGIA ILrLiUSTRATA. By David Looqan (first published in 1690).
A Series of Views of the Universities and Colleges, and of Eton College. Edited,
with a Life of Loggan, an Introduction, and Historical and Descriptive Notes by
J. W. Clark, M.A., Hon. D.Litt. (Oxon). £2 : 2s. net.
CAMBRIDGE DESCRIBED AND ILLUSTRATED. A History of the
Town and University. By T. D. Atkinson, with an Introduction by J. W. Clark,
M.A., With 29 Steel Plates, numerous Illustrations, and Maps. Medium 8vo.
Cheaper Issue, 12s. 6d. net.
" Gives in convenient form and with abundance of excellent illustrations the result of the beat and
most recent researches i nto Burgh and College history, and on a scale that will suit the requirements of
the general reader.'* — Guardian.
A CONCISE GUIDE TO THE TO"WN AND UNIVERSITY OF
CAMBRIDGE IN FOUR WALKS. ByJ. W.Clark. Revised Edition,
with additional larger scale Map and Portrait of the Author, and many other
Illustrations. Is. net.
" An ideal guide-book."— /)«i7y 0ironicle.
CONCISE GUIDE TO ELY CATHEDRAL. By J. W. Clark. 6d.net.
A HISTORY OF CAMBRIDGESHIRE. By Rev. Edward Contbeare,
M. A. Handmade paper. 8vo (only 250 printed), half roxburghe, with added Map,
(Publ. 12s. net) 6s. net. Large paper, 4to, handmade paper (only 60 copies printed),
half roxburghe, 12s. net.
1 TRINITY STREET, CAMBRIDGE.
Telegrams: Bowes, Cambridge." Telephone: 408 Cambridge.
CARBIS BAY, CORNWALL.
THE CARBIS BAY HOTEL
( The only Licensed Hotel in Carbis Bay).
Close to the Beach and Station. Near the West Cornwall Golf Links
(the best in Cornwall).
SPACIOUS LOUNGE. WARM IN WINTER. BRACING IN SUMMER.
BATHING, &c. BOATING. FISHING.
GOOD CENTRE FOR DAILY EXCURSIONS.
Telegraphic Address, "Comfort, Carbis Bay." Telephone 36, St. Ives.
Tariff on application to Manageress,
Book to Carbis Bay Station, G.'W.K.
CARLISLE.
THE COUNTY & STATION HOTEL
FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.
Is connected with the Platform of the Central Railway Station
by a covered way.
PORTERS IN SCARLET UNIFORM are in attendance
on arrival of all Trains.
Lift. Garage. Lounge. Billiards. T. 119.
Telegrams— Cov^TY Hotel, Carlisle. J. W. MASON, Manager.
10 CHANNEL ISLANDS CHESTER.
SARK, CHANNEL ISLANDS.
HOTEL BEL-AIR.
On the most bracing spot in the Island. A first-class country hotel.
THE largest and only Hotel on the island with a sea view. Possesses excellent
sleeping accommodation ; large Public, Drawing, Smoking, and Dining Rooms
(separate tables).
Good Fishing and Bathing ; Croquet and Tennis. Terms moderate.
N.B.—The Sark steamer leaves Guernsey at 10 a.m. daily (Saturdays at U a.m.)
during the summer months. Passage about one hour. Carriages and Porter from the
Hotel meet the Steamer.
SARK, CHANNEL ISLANDS.
DIXCART HOTEL.
(Established over 50 Years.)
"DEAUTIPULLY situated in finest position of the islands in own extensive grounds,
which include the picturesque Dixcart Bay. Excellent Fishing and Bathing.
Verandah sirrrcunding Hotel. Special Terms from October to April.
Moderate Tariff on application to the Proprietors,
Mr. & Mrs. OLIVER BRYANT.
CHESTER
THE GROSVENOR HOTEL.
THE County Hotel. First Class. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the
Cathedral " Bows" and other objects of interest.
Large Coffee and Reading Rooms ; Drawing Rooms for the convenience of
Ladies and Families ; Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Magnificent Lounge. Electric
Light and Elevator.
Taxi-cabs, Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. Motor
Inspection Pit and covered accommodation.
Omnibuses for the use of Visitors to the Hotel, and also the Hotel Porters attend
the Trains. A Night Porter in attendance. Tariff to be had on application.
Nat. Tel., Nos. 705 and 706. ^pply to Manager.
CHESTEE.
BLOSSOMS HOTEL.
X^NTIRELY Reconstructed — Fiisc-Class Family and Coniiiiercial —
^ Opposite General Post Office, iu centre of city, few minutes to City
Walls, Rows, etc. — Oninibu.s meets principal trains — Electric Light
tlircuf^hout — Passenf^er Lift — Motor Garage with Inspection Pit — ElcQtric
Trams ]>a.ss door — Ni^'ht- Porter.
Telephone No. 186. Telegrams: "Blossoms" Chester.
E. R. GILBERT, Manager.
CIRENCESTER CLIFDEN-ON-SEA — CLIFTON COLL. 1 1
CIRENCESTER.
KING'S HEAD HOTEL.
LEADING FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL
IN THE DISTRICT.
EXCELLENT STABLING. GARAGE. BILLIARDS.
Telephone No. 55. H MILES FROM GOLF LINKS.
Motors for Hire. J. T. BROCKMAN, Proprietor.
CLIFDEN-ON-SEA, CONNEMARA.
RAILWAY HOTEL.
Visitors to Glifden will find this hotel replete witli every comfort and
convenience. Certified Sanitation. Bath Rooms. Billiard Rooms, etc.
Terms moderate. Magnificent walks and drives. Invigorating Atlantic
breezes. Sea bathing. Lake and sea fishing. Good rough shooting.
A week at Clifden equals a month at most places. Marconi wireless
station within a mile of the town. Address MANAGERESS.
CLIFTON, BRISTOL.
GRAND SPA HOTEL.
TTNSURPASSED for Comfort and Scenery. Stands 250 feet above
^ sea-level. Turkish and Light and Radiant Heat Baths. Heated
throughout during winter.
OARAGE. QOLF LINKS NEAR. TERMS MODERATE.
Telegrams — " Spa," Bristol. Telephone, 655.
A. M. FINCH, Manageress.
COLL (ISLAND OF).
THE ISLAND OF COLL, ARGYLLSHIRE.
Ideal Health Resort. Second He<dthiest in the Western Islands.
THE COLL HOTEL.
Excellent Trout Fishing, free to Visitors, on Twelve Lochs, which are strictly
preserved. Deep-Sea Fishing and Sea Bathing. There is an excellent Golf Course of
18 Holes in connection with the Hotel. The Pier and Post Office are within 200 yards
of the Hotel. Terms moderate.
Telegraphic Address— •' MACAULAY, COLL."
12 COLWYN BAY CONNEMAKA CORPAOH.
COLWYN BAY, N.W.
IMPERIAL (STATION) HOTEL.
FIRST CLASS. NEAR THE SEA AND PROMENADE.
HANDSOME Public Rooms and Lounges. Private Suites for
Families, at Special Terms. Boarding terms.
TARIFF MODERATE. GARAGE. GOLF NEAR.
Telephone, 0182. Telegrams, " Imperial, Colw3ai Bay."
Leenane hotel
COUNTY GALWAY.
Ideal Place for a Month's Holiday.
EXCELLENT SPORTING HOTEL AT LEENANE, CONNEMARA.
QHOOTING. Fishing on Sea and Lakes. Delightful Daily Excursions. Excellent
*^ Facilities for Bathing. Good Roads for Motoring. Magnificent Scenery. Motor
Launch. Motor Cars.
A'pply B. HENRY McKBOWN,
MODERATE TARIFF. Propnetor.
" On those thrice lovely shores of Benvyle " (William Larmine).
RENVYLE, CONNEMARA, IRELAND.
{Train to Clifden ; for Car wire BLAKE, RENVYLE.)
RENVYLE HOUSE HOTEL
"PIVE miles from Letterfrack. Real Sea Bathing in Atlantic.
Fishing. Shooting. Lawn Tennis. Golf. Croquet.
Splendid Air and Views. 10s. per day ; £3 per week.
MRS. BLAKE.
CORPAOH.
CORPACH HOTEL
On the CALEDONIAN CANAL.
THLS LONG-ESTABLISHED HOTEL has been rebuilt and enlarged, and is now
fitted up and furnished in the most approved modern style, and lighted through-
out with Electric Light. Arrangoiiif-nts have been specially made for the comfort and
convenience of Visitors. New Golf Course now open.
Families Boarded by Week or Month.
The Hotel is only two minutes' walk from Corpach Pier, and three minutes' walk of
Corpach Station on the Mallaig and West Highland Railway. Visitors for Inverness con-
veyed to Canal Steamers free of charge. Posting. Oflicial Hotel for the A. A. and
S. A. C. DON. CAMERON, Proprietor.
DALWHINNIK — DUBLIN — ^DULVEIITON
13
DALWHIXNIE (for Loch Ericht).
Inverness-shire.
TRUIMBANK HOTEL
HKAKT of Highlands, 1200 ft. alti-
tude. Ideal Resort for Health,
Air, Scenery. Splendid Trout an<l
Salnio Ferox Fishing. Boats. Steam
Launch. Modern Hotel. '25 Bed-
rooms, 5 Bath-rooms. Electric Light.
Garage. On Main Line (H.Ry,) and
Motor Road.
Telegrams : TRUIMBANK.
Apply MANAGERESS.
DUBLIN
Charming situation, overlooking Stephen's Grean Park
Central Position.
Moderate Chargrea.
S^
e05
\3
«.^
HOTEL, OUBLiN.
Electric Idght. Hydraulic Passenger Elevators.
FHKg oaWAOB. Choicest Cuisine and Wines
DUBLIN.
MIDLAND RAILWAY HOTEL,
UPPER' DOMINICK=! STREET.
ONE minute's walk from Broad.stone terminus. Most convenient for
travellers to the West of Ireland arriving in Dublin at night and
wishing to catch the early morning train. The hotel is one of the most
comfortable in Dublin. Electric light throughout.
Inclusive charges, most moderate. Night Porter.
Telephone, 1887. Address MANAGERESS.
DULVERTON.
CARNARVON ARMS HOTEL
Lovely West Somerset — Rivers, Hills, Woods, Moors. Deer, Fox, Otter Hunting.
Private Trout Fishing. Golf. Hunters, Carriages, Motors.
ALSO
WHITE HORSE, EXFORD.
830 feet. Land of Loma Doone. Moorland Trout Fishing. Hunting.
Wire: Nelder, Dulvebton. Tel. No. 2. Booklet.
14 DUMFRIES DUNOON
DUMFRIES.
WOOOBANK MANSION HOTEL
REPLETE with every refined luxury, built and designed for private
use. Facing the River Nith. Lovely Aspects. Fully Licensed.
Head Quarters of the R.A.C and S. A C
THREE MINUTES FROM STATION. PRIVATE APPROACH.
Garage for Motors. Terms extremely moderate.
For Terms apply MANAGER.
DUNOON.
(M°KINN0N'S) M'^GOLL'S HOTEL
(ADJOINING CASTLE HILL), WEST BAY, DUNOON.
NEAR STEAMBOAT PIER.
THE principal and only first-class Hotel in Dunoon, standing in its own
pleasure grounds. Celebrated for comfort and moderate charges.
With all the latest sanitary improvements in perfect working order.
Billiards. Tennis. Near to Golf Course. Parties are requested to see
that they are taken to McCoU's Hotel, West Bay.
Mrs. HUGH McKINNON, Proprietress.
Telephone No. 58. Telegraphic Address— " Luxury, Dunoon."
"THE ATHENS OF THE NORTH."
BOOKS ABOUT EDINBURGH FOR YOUNG PEOPLE.
EDINBURGH
In the " Peep.s at Many Lands and Cities" Series.
By ROSALINE MASSON.
Containing 12 Full-'page Illustrations in Colour bij well knoion Artists.
Large Crown 8w, Cloth. Price Is. 6d. net. {By Post, Is. lOd.)
"Written with fulness of knowledge, understanding, anil .sympathy." — Edinburgh
Eveninn Neivs.
" Skilfully suggests to young readers all the romance of Scotland's capital, and
the dozen plates are very fine and very eliarnct eristic." — Manuiui }i/iys.
THE CHILDREN'S BOOK OF EDINBURGH
By ELIZABETH W. GKIERSON.
Containing 12 Full-page Illustratinns in Colour from Paintings by
Allan Stewart.
Large Square Crown Sro, Cloth, Gilt Top. Price 6s.
" Rarely have we come across such a delightful description of any town and its
history, ancient and modern. The richly coloured illustrations are extremely
fine." — British Weekly.
" The volume is beautifully got up and is an ideal gift book for boys and girls."
— The Layman.
Published by AUAM «fe CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W.
And ubtaiwxble of all Booksellers.
KDINBURGH.
15
EDINBURGH.
DARLING^S REGENT HOTEL,
-'-"^ "" 20 WATERLOO PLACE.
FIRST-CLASS
TEMPERANCE
HOTEL.
Under personal
management of
Miss DARLING.
Address for Telegrcvms —
" Darliiig's Hotel,
Edinburgh.
Telephone: 2928 Central.
L
TEL,
EDINBURGH.
SHIP H
EAST REGISTER STREET
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.
Well Decorated and Furnished throughout. Most central for Business or
Pleasure. Two Minutes of Waverley Station, Post Office, etc. Good Cooking,
Dispatch.
MODERATE TARIFF. NIGHT PORTER.
J. A. STAEHLER, Proprietor.
EDINBURGH.
WEST END BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT
59 MANOR PLACE.
(NEAR TRAMWAYS AND RAILWAY STATIONS.)
Miss SLIGHT.
16 EDINBURGH.
"THE PREMIER BISCUIT OF BRITAIN."
M^VITIE & PRICE'S
DIGESTIVE BISCUITS.
UNEQUALLED FOR QUALITY, PURITY, AND FLAVOUR.
MADE ONLY BY
ALEX. FERGUSON,
CONFECTIONER,
EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, and NEWCASTLE.
CAUTION.
i
PLEASE OBSERVE THAT THE ABOVE TRADE MARK
IS ON EACH LABEL.
EDINBURGH EDZELL. 17
EDINBURGH CAFfi COMPANY,
70 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH.
High -Class Eestaurant for Ladies and Gentlemen.
BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, DINNERS, TEA, COFFEE, &o.
ELEGANT SALOONS. CLOAK-ROOMS. SMOKE-ROOM.
LARGE SALOON FOR EXCURSION PARTIES.
Luncheons (2 Courses), 1/ per head.
Table d'Hdte (5 Ooursee), 2/6 per bead.
HEALTHIEST SPOT IN SCOTLAND.
PANMURE ARMS HOTEL, EDZELL
At the foot of the Grampians.
Grand Scenery. Delightful Climate. The Hotel is fitted with every Modern
Comfort and I;uxury. High-Class Cuisine. Electric Light and Heating.
Mm- AN IDEAL RESORT FOR GOLF.
18-Hole Course, one of the finest in Scotland, within 10 minutes' walk of Hotel ;
Motoring (Extensive Garage and Pit) ; Headquarters of the Automobile Association,
Motor Union and Road Club ; Tennis and Bcwls near Hotel.
Excellent Roads for Cycling.
Send for Illustrated Tariff to C. A. THIEM.
EDZELL.
THE GLENESK HOTEL
T'HE Hotel is in immediate proximity to the Railway Station, and Excellent Golfing
-*- is to be had over the Bdzell Golf Club's celebrated 18-Hole Golf Course.
NEW LOUNQE AND DRAWINQ-RGOM ACCOMMODATION.
COMMODIOUS GARAQE.
Good Centre for Fishing, Driving, and Coaching Tours.
For Terms, apply The MANAGERESS.
THE CLENESK HOTEL COMPANY. LIMITED. PROPRIETORS.
" SCOTLAND FOR THE BAIRNS."
In the "PEEPS AT MANY LANDS AND CITIES" Series.
By Elizabeth W. Grierson.
SCOTLAND
Containing 12 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour by well-known Artists.
Large Crown Svo. Cloth.
Price 1/6 net. (By Post, 1/10.)
SOME PRESS OPINIONS.
■■ Elizabeth Grierson's letterpress for the volume is delightfully fresh, and the dozen coloured pictures
make the volume a valuable one."— Ziunrfee /(dtert/jfi-. , ^ , ^ x lu < j j
" The whole design of the book is adujirable as fitted to secure the Interest, to instruct the mind, and
to stir the imagination of childieu."— Aberdeen Free Preti.
Published by ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W
And obtainable of all Booksellers.
2
18
EXETER FORRES GLASGOW.
EXETER.
P O P L E 'S
NEW LONDON HOTEL.
Visited hij Queen Jldoria, King Edward VII., and the
present King and Queen.
fTHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is near the Cathedral and
Stations, and adjoining Northkrnhay Park.
Charming Old English Courtyard (with Fernery and Fountain
in centre and lighted by Electricity) as Lounge.
TABLE D'HOTE (EXCELLENT CUISINE). NIGHT PORTER.
Splendid New Garage with lock-up Private Boxes.
Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs meet evert Train.
POSTING, STABLING.
Exeter Headquarters Royal Automobile Club, Automobile Association,
and the Motor Union.
Telegrams — " Pople, Exeter."
FORRES.
Cluny Hill Hydropathic.
■p^INEST Climate in Great Britain. Average Yearly Rainfall, 22 inches. Five Miles
of Walks in Pine Woods. Tennis, Bowline;, and Croquet Greens. Garage with Pit.
First-Class Golf Course (with Professional) adjoining grounds. Turkish and Russian
Baths. Massage. Recreation and Billiard Rooms. Lounge. Excellent Cuisine.
Moderate Tariff.
H. B. HIGGINS, Maiiager.
GLASGOW.
WINDSOR HOTEL,
FIRST=CLASS FAMILY HOTEL,
^_g5|l--, PATRONISED HV ROYALTY.
V?ys|^ HIQH-CLASS CUISINE. EVERY MODERN COMFORT.
Electric Light. Passenger Lift.
Central position, without noise of Traffic.
MODERATE TERMS.
A. ni. THIEM. Proprietor.
GLASGOW.
19
GLASGOW.
ST. ENOCH STATION HOTEL
THE FINEST AND LARGEST HOTEL IN GLASGOW.
Adjoins the
Glasgow Terminus of the
Glasgow and South-Western
and Midland Railways.
Within shilling Cab
fare of all other Railway
and Steamboat
Termini in the City.
On direct Car Route for
Glasgow Exhibition.
New Passenger Lift. Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine
Refinement and Comfort. j. h. THOMAS, Manager,
Glasgow and Sovth-Western Railway Company's Hotels.
Other Hotfils under same Management — Station, Dumfries ; Station, Ayr ;
and Station, Turnberry.
GLASGOW.
T IC^ T^ "^J T M /"^ ' ^1.
BUCHANAN ST. STATION HOTEL
WITHIN easy walk from North British Railway Station, St. Enoch and
Central Stations. 40 Bedrooms. Private Sitting Rooms. Billiard
Room, &c. Bed and attendance from 2s 6d. ; Breakfasts and Teas, Is. 6d.
and 2s. ; Dinners 2s. 6d. and 3s. 6d. Terms — from 7s. 6d. per day ; from
£2 : 2s. per week. Wines, &c.
Post Office Telephone 1861.
ALBERT JENNING, Proprietor.
GLASGOW.
CRANSTON'S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL
172 SAUCHIEHALL STREET.
CAUTION.— Please see that you are taken to Cranston's Waverley, Sauchiehall Street.
No connection with the other Waverley Hotel in town.
Telegraphic Address : Waverley Hotel. National Telephone : 128 Douglas.
P.O. Telephone : 129 Central.
Breakfast or Tea, 1/3, 1/6, 2/- ; Bedroom, with attendance inclusive, 3/-.
Stockrooms just added, from 3/- per day. Passenger elevator.
Other Addresses : Edinburgh, Old Waverley, Princes Street ;
Edinburgh, New Waverley, Waterloo Place.
20 GLASGOW GLENGARIFF GUERNSEY.
Skin Joy ^^^ Foot Joy
M. F. T. Complexion Skin Food. ''\'^A^] Thompsons Corn Puster Joy.
—Society's Chosen Sppcitic to |!| iM^iV -Rids Crippling Corns, Bunions
Soften and Refine the Skin, both M \» W and Swollen Joints — Safely
Summer and Winter. Prevents M J W Speedily. Yes, this is the famous
and Removes Redness, Coarse- M ' m "Comfort - for -the- Feet " you
ness. Chaps, Wrinkles, &c. 2/2, 'il J\. hear of! Only in M.P.T. En-
3/6, 4/6 post free. '>W^ velope. Large Sheet, 1/2 post
Only from —
fre
M. F. THOMPSON, Homffiopathic 4 Chemist, 17 Gordon St., Glasgow
GLENGARIFF, CO. CORK.
"The Madeira of Ireland."
THE
"ECCLES'"
HOTEL.
Killarney and Bantry Coaches start from and
stop at the "Eccles."
MOTOR GARAGE AND PIT. MODERATE.
GUERNSEY.
THE PRINCIPAL BOARDING-HOUSE in Guernsey is
THE RICHMOND, Cambridge Park. Splendid
Sea Views. Large Garden. Flat Roof. Hotel Licence.
JVriie for Illustrated Tariff'.
Tenns from 5/6 per Day. Special Winter Terms.
Propietors — Mr. & Mrs. HART.
GUERNSEY HARROGATB. 21
GUERNSEY.
OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE HOTEL,
GUERNSEY.
Formerly the Official Residence of the Lleutenant-Oovemor of the Island.
Long-established and FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for FAMILIES
and GENTLEMEN.
THOROUGH COMFORT. MODERN LUXURY. MODERATE CHARGES.
NEW AND SPACIOUS LOUNGE.
standing in its own Grounds, and situated in the higher and best part of the Town,
the Hotel commands from its Windows and Lawn unrivalled Views of the entire Channel
Group.
Table d'Hdte— Separate Tables. Electric Light.
Billiards. Dark Room. Baths.
Tariff on Application. Special Arrangements for the Winter Months.
Five minutes' walk from the Landing Stages. Porters and Omnibus from the Hotel
attend the arrival of all Steamers. Rooms may be secured by Letter or Telegram.
Registered Telegraphic Address— MPS. JOHN GARDNER,
"GOV. GUERNSEY." Manageress.
THE GRAND HOTEL
HARROGATE.
Three minutes' walk from the Baths and Wells.
Standing oo high ground facing South.
AN IDEAL RESIDENTIAL HOTEL.
Every Convenience, Comfort, and Elegance.
Teltgramt: Grand, Harrogate. Telephone Nos. 890 and 1017.
22 HARROGATE.
HARROGATE.
THE GRANBY HOTEL.
Facing the Southern Stray of 200 acres, this high-class hotel is situated in the
healthiest and most bracing part of Harrogate, away from the business centre, where
rest and quiet is assured. All the latest improvements have been introduced to pro-
vide for the comfort of tlie guests, together with provision lor the convenience of
invalids for deriving all the benefits provided by the Corporation for the "cure " for
which Harrogate stands unrivalled. Nearest hotel to the Harrogate Golf Links.
Lawn-Tennis Grounds adjoining the Hotel. Accommodation for motors and carriages.
For Terms apply to THE MANAGER.
ifi
HIGH HARROGATE.
"MOSS GRANGE,"
REGENT PARADE.
FIRST-CLASS APARTMENTS or BOARD. Facing the Stray.
Motor 'Bus passes the house. Ten minutes to Baths, Wells, Kursaal,
and Theatre. Golf Links in neighbourhood. Perfect Sanitation. Most
bracing part of Harrogate. Near Motor Garage. Bath. Good Cuisine.
Recommended. Mrs. M. ELLIS.
HARROGATE.
HIGH-CLASS "PENSION."
OORCROFT,"
Harlow Moor Drive.
Excellent situation, facing Moor and Gardens. Near Wells. Good
Table and Attendance. Electric Light. Smoking Room. Recom-
mendation of Doctors and Visitors. Prom £2 :9s. per week.
PROPRIETORS.
HARROGATE.
AIREVILLE HOUSE,
12 VICTORIA AVENUE.
First- Class Apartments.
Excellent Cooking. Central for Everything. Close to Stray, Wells,
and Baths. Modern Sanitation. Electric Light. Board-Residence, if
required. Finest thoroughfare in the town. A'pply MANAGERESS.
HELENSBURGH HEREFORD HEXHAM — II.FRACOMBE 2.^
HELENSBURGH, N.B.
(On Firth of Clyde, 40 minutes Rail from Glasgow.)
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL.
FINEST Position on Esplanade. Three minutes from Station. Most
central for Excursions by Rail or Steamers. Coffee, Drawing,
Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Motor Garage with Inspection Pit.
Oil supplied and Repairs done. Boarding Terms. Cliarges Strictly
Moderate.
J. R. EGGER, Proprietor.
HEREFORD.
GREEN DRAGON HOTEL
(CLOSE TO THE CATHEDRAL AND RIVER).
EnRST-CLASS Family Hotel. Centre of City. Electric Light throughout. Excellent
Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. Good centre for tour of Wye. Within easy distance
of Raglan, Tintem, Goodrich, and Ludlow Castles, Malvern Hills, Abergavenny,
Llanthony Abbey, etc. Boating on the W^ye arranged. Golf Links, y holes.
General Drawing Room. New Smoking Lounge. Billiard Room.
Garage in connection with Hotel. Headquarters of R.A.C.
National Telephone, 128. For Tariff apply MANAGERESS.
HEXHAM, NOBTHUMBBBLAND.
TYNDALE HYDROPATHIC MANSION,
A Favourite Health Besort, beautifully situated,
overlooking the Valley of the Tyne.
PURITY OF AIR UNSURPASSED. REPLETE WITH EVERY COMFORT.
GOLF, &c.
Teems, fkom £2:5:6 pee Week.
FRANK G. GRANT, Propriet&r.
ILFRACOMBE.
Telephone :
The Oldest Established Family and Commercial Boarding
House. One of the largest, most central, and most
popular in Ilfracombe.
Moderate Charges.
ss^is
Large Dining
Hall to seat 130.
SO Bedrooms. Facing and three minutes'
walk from Sea. First-class Bedroom Accommoda-
tion with good Sea-view. No charge for Attendance.
Parties catered for. Table d'Hdte, 7 o'clock. „„„„,„
Proprietor— W. H. SMYTH.
24
ILFRACOMBE
ILFRACOMBE.
THE GROSYENOR.
IillRST-CLASS Boarding Establishment on level ground. Two minutes
from Sea, Capstone Parade, Bathing Coves, Town, and Post Office.
Spacious Dining and Drawing Rooms, with Large Balconies recently added,
also Lounge and Smoking Room. Table d'HSte, 7 P.M. Excellent Cuisine.
Separate Tables. Recommended. Moderate. Illustrated Tariff gratis.
Mrs. PICKETT, Proprietress.
ILFRACOMBE.
Stinimer and Wintsr Resort. Close to the Beachas, Fsrad*, ate
msnciing full view of the Sea. Large Dining
and Drawing Rooms. Separate
Tables
Billiard and
Bmoke Rooms. 120 Bedrooms.
Hot <k Cold Shower Baths. Dark Room for Photoa.
Electric Light throughout. Electric Passenger Lift Garage with Pit
MODRRATn TAHIPP. PERSONAL MANAQBMENT.
"THE COUNTRY OF LORNA DOONE."
THE BLACRMORE COUNTRY.
By F. J. SNELL.
Containing 32 Full- Page Illustrations from Photographs
by Catharine W. B. Ward.
Large Crown 8vo. Cloth. Price 3s. 6d. net. (By Post 38. lOd.)
SOME PRESS OPINIONS.
" Mr. Snell is an enthusiast after our own heart. He does full justice to the
beauty of the scenery, and writes informingly about the old legends which Blackmore
wove into his romances. The photographic illustrations are good and well produced."
—La'lies' Field.
"The book teems with the results of au observant and discriminating vision, and
with that commendation, we must take our leave of a fascinating and informing
volume." — Exeter Flying lost.
Uniform with the "BLACKMORE COUNTRY" In Black's Piltfplmage Series.
Price 3s. 6d. net each. (By Post Js. lOd.)
THE SCOTT COUNTRY.
THE BURNS COUNTRY.
THE DICKENS COUNTRY.
THE THACKERAY COUNTRY.
THE HARDY COUNTRY.
THE INGOLDSBY COUNTRY.
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, AND 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
And obtslaabJe through any Bookseller.
INVERNESS ISLE OF MAN. 26
INVERNESS.
CALEDONIAN HOTEL.
Facing Railway Station, and within one mitiute't
walk. Overlooking the River Nen.
T^HB above well-known First -class Hotel is the largest and
-^ beat-appointed Hotel iu Inverness, and universally ac-
knowledged one of the most comfortable in Scotland. All
the Public Rooms, including Lounge, nre of a modern style,
lit with Electric Light. The Bedroom views are unsurpassed,
showing miles of Mountai?i Scenery, and overlooking the
river Ness. Headquarters S. A. C. and all principal Automobile
Clubs, including America. Omnibus attends Steamers, Hotel
Porters all Trains. Moderate charges. Motor Garage and
Repair Shop. Posting. Telephone No. 246.
CALEDONIAN HOTEL INVERNESS F. STEYEN, Manager.
INVERNESS.
THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL
Five minutes' walk from railway station and nearest canal steamers. Occupies
finest position in Inverness, on the banks of the River Ness, facing the Castle. Most
Modern and Up-to-Date Hotel in Town.
PARIFF ON APPLICATION. FIRST-CLASS GARAGE FOR MOTORS.
'^*'- 2«3- C. OBERBECK, Proprietor.
DOUGLAS, ISLE OF MAN.
VICTORIA STREET.
A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND PRIVATE HOTEL, close to the Promenade.
^ Well-Furnished. Large Smoke Rooms, Dining Rooms (separate tables). Drawing
Room, Sitting Rooms, and spacious Bedrooms. Centre of all places of Amusement.
TARIFF :-BED AND BREAKFAST 4/6. FULL BOARD 7/- PER DAY.
LUKE FIELDING, Proprietm:
2'elegraphic Address — " Salisbury, Douglas."
DOUGLAS, ISLE OfIvIAN.
COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS (with or without
board) at reasonable terms.
HEALTHIEST LOCALITY ! SEA VIEW ! !
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ! ! ! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ! I ! !
54 Murray's Road, Broadway, Douglas.
(Mrs.) B. GORRY, Proprietress.
26 laLK OK WIGHT — JEH8l!:if.
DAISH'S HOTEL,
SHANKLIN,
ISLE OF WIGHT.
IDEAL SPOT FOR A HOLIDAY.
strictly first-class, up-to-date Hotel, standing in its own charming grounds, beautifully
situated, with a splendid view of the Downs and Bay. Excellent Cuisine. Choicest
Wines and Moderate Charges, combined with every modern comfort. Tennis, Bowls,
Croquet, Billiards, and the only American Bar on the Island. Special en Pension and
Week-end arrangements.
Our Omnibus and Carriages meet all Trains. Coaches to all parts start from
the door. French and German spoken. Foreign money exchanged.
Illustrated Tariff oa application to C. HERBERT FREELAND, Manager.
SANDOWN, ISLE OF WIGHT.
SHELTERED by the Culver Cliffs, facing South-East, possessing
a beautiful sand beach. Golf Links, natural sandy course, 18 holes.
Centrally situated for visiting Osborne and other parts of the Island
Moderate Tariff. Lounge. Billiards.
ROYAL PIER HOTEL, SANDOWN, ISLE OF WIGHT.
BEMBRIDGE, ISLE OF WIGHT.
ROYAL SPITHEAD HOTEL, Ltd.
"PACING the Sea. Principal and Largest Hotel. Close to
Royal Golf Links and Ladies' Links. Sailing Club. Sunday
Golf. Garage.
Telephone i88. Tariff on Application.
J. HAWKES.
JERSEY.
POMME DOR.
THHIS delightful and charming First-class Hotel is beautifully situated
-*- for Excursions by Sea and Land. One part of the Hotel and
Annexe overlooks the Sea. It is unrivalled lor it.s ex(|uisite French
Cuisine in the whole of the Channel Islands. Special Terms made by
the Week. Good Orchestra plays daily in the garden.
L. MOURAUD, Proprietor.
27
JERSEY,
ST. BRELADE'S BAY HOTEL
Oid Established Family Hotel.
TRACING SOUTH. Charmingly situated on sea-shore, in
the most beautiful Bay in Channel Islands. Unrivalled
Sea Bathing. Moderate Inclusive Tariff. Special Winter
Terms. Two Golf Links within a mile of Hotel.
A. D. HAEDEN, Proprietor.
JERSEY.
STAR HOTEL.
Facing the Harbour. Family and Commercial. Established over 70 Years.
THE best knowu Hotel for Tourists in the Channel Islands. The Tariff, 6s. fid. or
7s. 6d. per day (according to room), includes Bed, Breakfast, Luncheon, Dinner,
Attendance, and Lights. Xo extras. Fishing and Sailing parties arranged. Four-
in-Hand Excursion Cars leave the Hotel twice daily for places of interest. A good
road Map of the Island sent for Three Stamps. Full Tariff post free. Omnibus meets
all boats.
A. RAVNOR SMITH, Proprietor.
Perfumer by Royal Appointment to H.M. QUEEN ALEXANDRA
AND H.R.H, THE PRINCESS CHRISTIAN
de FAYE'S
JERSEY
EAU DE COLOGNE.
Original cases, 5/6, 10/6, and 21/-, duty
carriage free United Kingdom.
R Q. de FAYE,
David Place, Bath Street,
JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS.
28 KESWICK — KILMACOLM — K.INGD88IE.
KESWICK.
BORROWDALE HOTEL.
SPLENDIDLY SITUATED, OVERLOOKING DERWENTWATER LAKE.
The nearest Hotel to Grange Fell.
Central for Mountain Climbing.
Good Fishing and Boating. Garage and Petrol Stored.
Terms Moderate.
Proprietress.
nCILMACOLM HYDROPATHIC,
Renfrewshire, Scotland.
npHIS ESTABLISHMENT is
-'- situated 500 feet above the
sea-level, and commands a view
of great beauty. The HOUSE
is handsomely furnished, and
the TURKISH BATH, for size j^
and beauty, is unsurpassed by /fjt
that of any similar Institution ' --'
in the Kingdom. /-SKsS
The GROUNDS extend to
Twenty - two acres, and are
artistically laid out with
Walks, Bowling & Croqnet Oreeiu.
Excellent Golf Course (18 holes)
tuithin Ten Minutes' Walk.
Charge moderate.
LARGE LAW^N TBNNIS COURTS.
Situated on the Glasgow and South-Westem Railway ; IS miles from Gla.sgow and
S miles from Greenock, whence Tourists start by the lona, Columba, and other Steamers
for the far-famed Scenery of Loch and Mountain on the Clyde and the Western High-
lands. Trains run frequently.
Terms from 8s. 6d. per Day ; £2, 12s. 6d. per IBTeek.
Modern and well-equipped Qarag^e for 5 Cars; Charge, is. 6d. per day.
Chauffeur's Board and Lodging, 6s. per day.
Special T«rmii for Famillss and Boardera. Apply MANAQES, Hydropathic, Kllmaeolm.
"IN ROMANTIC BADENOCH."
KINGUSSIE.
DUKE OF GORDON HOTEL.
SITUATED among the Finest Scenery of the Cairiigonn Mountains. Entirely rebuilt
and renovated. Tliree minutes' walk from Kingussie Station, at which all trains
stop. Hotel Porter attends all trains. Parties boarded per week or month. Inclusive
t<'rnis on application.
LARGE GARAGE. Oils and Petrol kept.
LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET OREEN IN HOTEL GROUNDS. BOWLING GREEN.
GOLF GOURSE (IS holes) 10 minutes' walk. FISHING, ETO.
Telegrams— MR. AND MRS. W. WOLFENDEN,
" Wolfenden, Kingussie." Proprietors and Managert.
KINI.OCH RANNOCH LAHINCH LAIRG LANGHOLM 29
KINLOCH RANNOCH, PERTHSHIRE.
BUNRANNOCH HOTEL.
THIS old-established and popular Hotel is reconstructed with additional Bed-
rooms, Bath-rooms, and Lavatories. Stands at the foot of Loch Rannoch.
Commands a fine view of the surrounding mountains. Bracing air and most healthy
district. Good free fishing on Loch Rannoch and part of River Tummel. Motor
House and Tennis. Very moderate terms. Post Office near Hotel.
H. MACKAY, Lessee.
LAHINCH, CO. CliARE.
QUIET SPOT OVERLOOKING THE ATLANTIC.
GOLF LINKS HOTEL.
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.
FIRST-CLASS. Close to Links (the finest in Ireland). Golf Vouchers
supplied. Sanitation certified perfect. Electric Light throughout.
Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths. Lounge. Motor accommoda-
tion, Pit, etc. Moher Cliffs and liisdoonvarna Spas close by.
LAIRG, SUTHERLAND.
SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL
Good Trout Fishing on several excellent Lochs.
Sutherland Motor Traffic Coy. conveys the mails to and from Lairg to
Lochinver, Scourie, and Tongue, thus ensuring a regular and eiBcient
service.
Motors for Hire by Day or Week.
Telegrams — Wallace, Lairg. Motors meet arrival and departure of all Trains.
WM. WALLACE, Proprietor.
LANGHOLM, DUMFRIESSHIRE.
20 Miles by Rail and Road from Carlisle.
ESKDALE Temperance HOTEL.
ANGLING AND SUMMER QUARTERS. SALMON, SEA TROUT, HERLINC.
QOLF, TENNIS, BOWLING, CRICKET, Etc.
20 Drives midst lovely Mountain Scenery.
Stnd J(yr Tariff and Coach G^dde to —
WM. DOUGLAS, B.G., Proprietor.
30 LARNE l.AUNCESTON.
LARNE HARBOUR (COUNTY ANTRIM).
OLDERFLEET [STATION] HOTEL
THIS First-Class Hotel, with charming situation facing the sea, has just been r--
decorated and refurnished, and many improvements have been made for Visitors
comfort, including a handsome Lounge.
One minute's walk from Stranraer Mail Steamers and Railway Station.
Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths in Hotel.
Convenient to Golf Links. Garage with Pit.
HUGH GARRETT, Manager.
LAUNCESTON, NORTH CORNWALL.
WHITE HART
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
Within a few Seconds of the Fine Old Castle and Beautiful Church.
Good Centre for North Cornwall. Motor Garage. Inspection Pit. Petrol.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
Tel. No. 13. BRENDON PARSONS, Proprietor.
A BEAUTIFUL SOUVENIR OF THE " SHAKESPEARE COUNTRY."
STRATFORD-ON-AVON,
LEAMINGTON AND WARWICK.
By DIXON SCOTT.
Containing 12 full-page Illustrations in Colour by Fred. Whitehead.
Large Square Demy Svo, Boards, with Picture Cover.
Price Is. 6d. net. (By Post Is. lOd.)
This book is one of Messrs. A. and C. Black's new Colour Series entitled
" BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN," the various volumes of which deal with some of the most
famous and picturesque parts of the kingdom. They are produced at a popular price,
and are the most inexpensive books of this character which have ever been produced.
They therefore make a significant epoch in colour printing, hrinqing for the. first time
a high-class coUiur-hook within the reach of all. Without being guide-books, the volumei?
in each case tell the reader the things that are worth knowing and remembering about
each place or district.
OTHER VOLUMES TN THE " BEAVTIFVI. BRITAIN" SERIES.
Canterbury. The Isle of Man. North Wales.
Cambridge. The Isle of Wight. Wessex.
The Channel Islands. Oxford. Windsor and Eton.
The English Lakes. The Thames. And v ni form with the above
The Firth of Clyde. The Trossachs. The Romance of London.
PriBMSBBD BY ADAM k CIIAHI.ES BLACK, 4, i, and 6 SoHo Square, London, W.
And obtainable of all Booksellers.
LEAMINGTON LIMERICK. 31
LEAMINGTON SPA.
THE CLARENDON HOTEL.
HIGH-CLASS family Hotel, near Pump-room and Gardens, situated
highest and best part of the Town. Close to trams. Away from
loise. Electric Light. Lift. Garage. Stabling. Special winter terms,
'erfect cooking. English Chef. Telephone 663.
Apply MANAGERESS.
REGENT HOTEL,
ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
PREMIER HOTEL OF THE MIDLANDS.
stabling and large Garage. Table (i'H6te, 7-8.30, at separate tables.
Remodelled. Refurnished throug:hout. Electric Light and Lifts installed.
Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths.
Heated througrhout during: Winter Months.
LEAMINGTON SPA.
CROWiS! HOTEL
A MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL, with large Garden, superb Coffee Room, Drawing,
-^ Reading, and Private Sitting Rooms. Perfect Sanitation. Bathrooms on each
floor. Excellent Cuisine. Low-priced Wine List. Moderate Tariff. Motor Pit.
Engineer. The late Clement Scott mentioned in Free Lance a visit paid to the
"Crown." He said : "It is difficult to get me to my room, for I have east envious
eyes on Great-Grandfather Clocks, Old English Sideboards (beautifully carved), and on
all the old-world treasures of an Inn such as one seldom meets with in these flashy
luxurious days." EDGAR PHILLIPS, Proprietor.
LIMERICK.
CRUISE'S ROYAL HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY and COMMERCIAL.
Moderate Charges. Excellent Cuisine. Headquarters Irish
Automobile and Motor Union Clubs. New Lounge just
added. Bar, Billiards, Smoking Rooms. Electric Light
throughout. Omnibus meets all trains and steamers.
JAMES FLYNN, Managing Proprietor.
32 LIMERICK LIVERPOOL. .
LIMERICK.
GLENTWORTH HOTEL.
T^HIS elegant and centrally established HOTEL has been prepared with the greatest
-*- care, and at considerable expense, for the accommodation of Ladies and Gentlemen
visiting Limerick, and possesses the Freshness, Neatness, and General Comfort which
distinguish the best English and Continental establishments.
The Glentworth is the leading HOTEL in the city, and is noted for its moderate
Terms, First-class Cuisine, and Perfect Sanitation.
Omnibus and Staff meet all Trains and Steamers.
Cook's Coupons accepted. KENNA BROS., Proprietors.
LIMERICK.
ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL.
IRST-CLASS Family and CommerciaL Most Central. Electric
Light throughout. Bedrooms unsurpassed. Comfort. Clean-
liness. Moderate Charges. A new wing added, which includes
23 Bedrooms, splendid Banqueting Room, and Stock Rooms.
Sanitary arrangements perfect. Cook's Coupons accepted.
Splendid Billiard Room. Hot and Cold Baths.
P. HARTIGAN, Proprietor.
LIVERPOOL. ~^
"THE SHAFTESBURY."
MOUNT PLEASANT.
A FIRST-CLASS TEMPERANCE HOUSE.
■"- Centrally situated, quiet and homelike.
About four minutes' walk from Lime Street and
Central Stations, and adjoining Roscoe Gardens.
Mount Pleasant Cars from Landing Stage and
Castle Street, near Exchange Station, stop at
door of Hotel. Night Porter. Cab Fare from
any Station, Is.
Telegrams: "Shaftesbury Hotel, LiverpooL" Telephone : Z^2 KoyaX.
F
LIVERPOOL.
SUPERIOR BOARD RESIDENCE
Cathedral View, 5 Canning Street.
Excellent Cuisine. Private sitting-rooms. Healthiest situation.
Southern aspect. Convenient for business or pleasure.
Bed and Breakfast from 43. 6d. ; per day, 6s. 6d. ; week, 31s. 6d.
Telephone: 1092 Royal. Apply Manageress.
LIVERPOOL — LIZARD LLANDRINDOU WELLS. 33
LIVERPOOL.
LAURENCE'S
COMMERCIAL & FAMILY TEMPERANCE HOTEL,
CLAYTON SQUARE
( Within Three Minutes' Walk of Lime Street and Central Stations, and
the Chief Objects of Interest in the Town).
CONTAINS upwards of One Hundred Rooms, including Coffee Room, Private
Sitting Rooms, Billiard and Smoke Rooms, Large and Well - Lighted Stock
Rooms. HEADQUARTERS CYCLISTS' TOURING CLUB.
Telephone— Royal, No. 372'j.
LIZARD, CORNWALL.
HOUSEL BAY HOTEL.
SPLENDID BRACING CLIMATE.
THIS First-Class Hotel commands Magnificent Views of the famous
-*- Lizard Head, and is the only Hotel situated close to the Sea and
seautiful Housel Bay Bathing Beach. Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing,
Billiards. Motor Car service to and from Helston Station (G.W.R.).
MOTOR GARAGE WITH PIT.
Tariff on application to Ala/nager, Housel Bay Hotel, Lizard, R.S.O.
LLANDRINDOD WELLS.
ROCK PARK HOTEL
AND SPA.
Adjoins Strongest Mineral Springs, Baths, and Golf Links.
Near the New Electro-Hydropathic Baths.
The only Hotel situated in own grounds (50 acres).
TENNIS AND CROQUET LAWNS.
Seven miles excellent Trout Fishing reserved and
free for Hotel visitors.
riie only private fishing in the neighbourhood. Fishing commences in the Grounds.
SUPPLIES FROM OWN FARM AND GARDtNS.
*osting. j Separate Tables.
Good Selection Carriages. ^ Excellent Cuisine.
Special attention given to
lotor Accommodation. diet.
Sanitation Perfect. South Aspect.
MODERATE TARIFF,
otel Omnibus meets all Trains. Telegrams : "ROCK." Telephone : P.O. No. 2.
Tariff from R. P. CULLEY & CO.. Proprietors.
3
34 LLANDRINDOD— LLANDUDNO — LLANGOLLEN — LOCH AS8YNT.
LLANDRINDOD WELLS.
TEMPLE LODGE.
SMALL Piivalc lloar.liii.i;- House. Pleasantly .situated on Higli, Diy
Ground, near Tumi) Rooms and Common. Larjje Airy Rooms.
House Arrangements entirely under Personal Supervision. Separat'
Tahle.s.
TERMS VERY MODERATE.
PROPRIETRESS.
LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES.
IMPERIAL HOTEL.
Centrally situated on Promenade. Extensive Sea Frontage.
The Tea Lounge (new 1911) and Smoking Balcony, also Ladies*
Lounge, face the Sea.
140 WELL-APPOINTED SITTING AND BED ROOMS
(The greater number of which have Sea and Mountain Views).
Passenger aud Lujigage I^ifts. Central for Golf Links, G.P.O., Pier, and Station.
Electric Light. Night Porter. Motor Garage attached to Hotel.
Private OmnihUS. For Illustrated Tariff and other jMrticvlars, apply to —
Nat. Tel. No. 6 (2 lines). S. CHANTREY, Proprietor.
LLANGOLLEN.
THE HAND HOTEL.
T'HIS is one of the most convenient in this Lovely Vale, am
second to none in North Wales for comfort, catering, ain
situation. Sixty Bedrooms. Large Private Sitting-Rooms. Electri
Light throughout Extensive Motor Garage for 30 Cars, Gdlf.
JA:\IES S. SHAW, Proprietor.
Telephone No. 7. Address — "Hand, Llang-oUen. "
LOCH ASSYNT, SUTHERLANDSHIRE.
INCHNADAMPH HOTEL.
EXCELLENT Free Fishing — Salmon, Salmo Ferox, and Trout-
Lochs aud Streams. Salmon Fishing on River Inver, June an I
July, at 10s. per rod per day. Boats. Experienced Gillies. Fisliin
Tackle. Posting. lioute — Rail to Invershin, where Motor Car will Vie i
waiting if Projirietor be previously communicated with, or Mail (J:
from Lairg to Inchnadamph. Garage.
W. WALLACE, Proprietor.
LOCH AWE — LOCH PYNE — LOCHINVER. 35
LOCH AWE HOTEIi.
(LOCH AWE STATION— CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.)
PASSENGER LIFT FROM STATION TO HOTEL.
Electric Light throughout. Sanitary Arrangements complete.
Motor Garage with Pit. Petrol. Accumulators charged.
9-Hole Golf Course in vicinity, also Putting Green in Hotel Grounds.
Illustrated Brochure on apjilication.
SALMON AND TROUT FISHING.
S.S. "Countess of Breadalbane " and Steam Launch "Growlev" run in connection
with Hotel. D. FRASER, Proprietor.
PORTSONACHAN, LOCH AWE.
PORTSONACHAN HOTEL.
T'HIS Hotel is charmingly situated and easy of access, — only an honr's sail
from Lochawe Station (Callander and Oban Railway), where the Hotel
steamer Caledonia makes connection with the principal trains during the season.
Letters delivered twice, and despatched three times daily. Postal, Telegraph, and
Money Order Gifice in Hotel buildings. Presbyterian and Episcopalian Churches
within easy walking distance of Hotel. Tennis court, beautiful drives, first-class
boats, experienced boatmen. Salmon and Trout Fishing free. Charges moderate.
THOMAS CAMERON, Proprietor.
Originator of the Falls of Blairgour and Glen Nant Circular Tour from Oban.
Telegraphic Address, " CAMEEON, PORTSONACHAN."
LOCH FYNE, TARBERT.
COLUMBA, THE HOTEL
At Pier. Billiard Room. Golf Course.
D. SUTHERLAND,
Proprietor.
LOCHINVER, SUTHERLANDSHIRE.
CULAG HOTEL.
Good TROUT atid FEROX FISHING in Numerous Lochs, FREE.
SALMON ANGLING ON INVER AND KIRKAIC RIVERS. SEA TROUT.
SEA FISHING EXCELLENT.
ROUTE.— Rail to Lairg, thence daily Mailmotor or Hire ; or MacBrayne's
boat from Glasgow, Oban, Mallaig, etc.
Hotel Motor can meet parties at Invershin on due notice being given.
Wires: " Culag, Lochikver." J. R. SKINNER, Projmctor.
3G LOCH LAGGAN LOCH LOMOND LOCHMAUKE.
LOCH LAGGAN.
LOCH LAGGAN HOTEL,
KINGUSSIE.
Half -way between TuUoch (West Highland Railway) and Kingussie.
THIS HOTEL is delightfully situated on tlie Royal Route between Fort William
and Kingussie, and close to the lovely and interesting Loch Laggan, noted for
its excellent Fishing. Recommended as a Health Resort— dry and bracing. Fishing
Free on Loch and River. Visitors and Tourists can depend on every Comfort,
combined with Moderate Charges.
Telegrams : Cameron, Kinloch-Laggan. Mrs. B. CAMERON, Proprietrix.
ARDLUI HOTEL.
HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND.
T%ree minutes' walk from, Steamboat Pier and ArdVui Station, West Highland Railway.
THIS Hotel is beautifully situated amidst unrivalled scenery, and commands a
magnificent view of the Loch. The Hotel has been remodelled and refurnished,
and additions have been made ; the sanitary arrangements are new, and have been
carried out on the most improved principles. Visitors staying at this house will find
every comfort and attendance, with boats and fishing free. Delightful daily tours
can be arranged to Loch Katrine, Loch Awe, Loch Tay, Loch Long, etc. Passengers
travelling South by West Highland Railway change here for Loch Lomond and Loch
Katrine. Parties boarded by week. Special week-end terms, except in August. Motor
garage. Petrol. Telegrams: " Dodds, Ajidlui." D. M. DODDS, Proprietor.
N.B. — Grand Circuiir Tour by Rail, Coach, and Steamer daily from Edinburgh
and Glasgow. Further particulars can be obtained at Crianlarich and Ardlui Hotels,
also from the North British and Caledeaian Railway Companies' Tourist Guides.
These should be on the Bookshelf of every Disciple of Izaak Walton.
I By William Earl Hodgson, containing a Facsimile in Colours
CAiMnkl cicuiMO ' '^^ ^ Model Set of Flies for Scotland, Ireland, England, ;ind
bALMUN hl^niNU I Wales, and ten Illustrations from Photographs. Largo crown
I 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price 7.S. 6d. net. (By Post 7s. lid.)
The .tjornhfj I'okI says — " Mr. Earl Hodgson gives us a worthy complenient to the Iwiok which he wrote
al)out tlie Trout, and that ia high praise. No praise bestowed upon the facsimile reproductions of the
most killing lures could be extravagant."
I ToniiT cicuiMP I By William Earl HoDfisoN, containing a Facsimile in Colour of
TRUUT FlbHlNu .^ u Model Book of Flies " for Stream and Lake, arranged accord-
I A STUDV OF NATURAL ing to the month in which the Lures are ajjpropriate. Large
PHENOMENA. | crown 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price7s.6d.net. (By post7s. lid.)
The /'ii/(i says— " The illustrations and the letterpress are well tnntched. . . . We have not had more
plt'imure from a book for a long time."
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, AND 6 80H0 SQUARE, LONDON, W.
And obtainable of aU /iookseUers.
LOCHMAREE, ROSS-SHIRE, N.B.
THE KINLOCHEWE HOTEL
T:>EAUTIFULLY situnted at the Head of this famous Loch
^-^ amidst grand scenery. Visitors at either this or the
Lochmaree Hotel have the privilege of fishing practically the
whole of Loch Maree free.
MOTORS FOR HIRE. POSTING. MODERATE TARIFF,
A. ROBERTSON, Proprietor.
I.OCHMAREK — L0CHNES8 — LOCH RANNOCH. 37
THE LOGHMAREE HOTEL, ROSS-SHIRE,N.B.
I'litrtiiiUi:.'!, hy Her Lain Majeslij Queen, Victoria.
OICAUTl FULLY situated in the centre of the Lonhinaree district, and overlooking
'-* Loclimaree, which is unsurpassed for its beauty and grandeur. Salmon, Sea
,1'I'rout, and Trout Fishing free to residents. Boats and first-class bnatinen supplied.
i| Route— RaU to Auchnasheen Station, thence drive; or by Messrs. M'Brayne's steamers
1 to Gairloch. A coach will await the arrival of (iairloch steamers on being wired for.
I Special Boarding terms. Garage and Petrol. Motors for hire. Posting in all its
branches.
Telegrams : Hotel, Lochmaree. ALEX. ROBERTSON, Proprietor.
(Under same Management, The Hotel Strachur, Argyllshire.)
LOCHNESS.
DRUMNADROCHIT HOTEL,
DRUMNADROCHIT, LOCHNESS.
Salmon and Trout Fishing Free. Tennis. Croquet.
Private Qolf Course free to Visitors staying in Hotel.
HIRING.
Landing- Stage— Temple Pier, Lochness, op Public Cars from
Inverness and Fort William daily.
(Conveyance from and to free on intimation.)
Telegraphic Address — "Hotel, Drmnnadrochit." D. D. MACDONALD, Proprietor.
LOCH RANNOCH, PERTHSHIRE.
DUNALASTAIR HOTEL,
KINLOCH-RANNOCH.
THIS, the First Hotel in the district (both iu date of establishment
and in present standing), is beautifully situated amid splendid
scenery at the foot of Loch Rannoch and on the banks of the Tummel.
A centre for good coach drives in the midst of the most magnificent
scenery in the Scottish Highlands.
Visitors at this Hotel enjoy free fishing on Loch Rannoch (11 miles
long) and the Longest Stretch of the River Tummel, with good boat.s
and trustworthy boatmen. Salmon Fishing now added.
Good Accommodation for Motors.
Official Headquarters of all Automobile Clubs ; also C.T.C.
TERMS MOBERATE.
EPISCOPAL CHURCH ADJOINS THE HOTEL.
cv /■ /STRUAN, HIGHLAND RAILWAY, 13 miles.
dearest nations y^j^.^.^^^.^^ WEST HIGHLAND RAILWAY, 17 miles.
Telegrams : — " Macmillan, Kinlochrannoch."
D. C. MACMILLAN, Froprieioi:
38 LONDON.
WESTMINSTER PALACE HOTEL,
LONDON, S.W.
IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
A most Convenient Centre for all Places of Historic Interest.
Twenty minutes from the Imperial Japanese Exhibition, 1910.
Close to all the Government, Colonial, and Engineering Oflaces.
Moderate Tariff, and no charge for Attendance.
Special Week-end and " Bn Pension" Terms on Application.
Messrs. G. 0. k T. MOORE,
AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS ^
SURVEYORS, ESTATE AGENTS
7 LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON.
Messrs. MOORE
Conduct House Property Auctions [held continuously
for 76 years] at the Mart on Thursdays. Special
Attention to the Management of Houses and Estates,
and letting City Offices and Business Property
generally.
Messrs. JONES & CO.,
The Oldest Established and Leading Auctioneers, House and
Estate Agents, at
EALING COMMON and ACTON HILL.
LIST OF HOUSES FREE ON APPLICATION.
EALING is considered iriosl healtliy, and liglitly ti'iined tlie Queen of London Suburlis,
with lowest nites in lliddli-.sex. Motor Uus to Oxford Circus, 3d.
MONEY required on Excellent Securities at from 4 per cent. Rents collected.
Call, write, or telephone 9f)7 Ealing.
Officer adjoiniiig DISTRICT RAILWAY STATION, EALING COMMON, LONDON.
T.oxnox.
30
ISTHITE HALL
RESIDENTIAL HOTELS
(close to the British Museum)
RUSSELL SQUARE, W.C.
9, 10 & 11 BLOOMSBURY SQUARE ^S^- 2! Gui„?asj::
' _ ^ week, including Bed-
Telegraph: " TASTtFUL, London." room. Table d'hote
—., , tn/:in /-• I Breakfast.Tea, Dinner,
Telephone: 10610 Central. Lights, and Attendance.
18, 19 & 20 MONTAGUE STREET
Telegraph: " RIPELY, London."
Telephone : 5707 Central.
V ^=^
70, 71 & 72 GUILFORD STREET =.
Telegraph: "LUGGAGE, London."
Telephone: 9909 Central.
15 & 16 BEDFORD PLACE =
Telegraph: " QIJIVERED, London."
Telephone: 8247 Central.
From 7s. per day
or 2 Guineas
per week.
4 & 5 MONTAGUE STREET =
Telegraph: " WHITENTIAL, London."
Telephone : 1 1442 Central.
13 WOBURN PLACE = « =
Telegraph: "OyEENHOOD, London.'
Telephone: 12491 Central.
From bs. 6d. per day
\ or 38s. 6d. per
w^eck.
22 MONTAGUE STREET -
Telegraph: SIGNOR, London."
Telephone: 7117 Central.
23 & 22 CORAM STREET =
Telegraph: "WAYFARING, London.
Telephone: ! 3880 Central.
From 6s. per day
or 35s. per
week.
4()
LONDON.
SUN FIRE OFFICE
(FOUNDED 1710).
HEAD OFFICE: 63 THREADNEEDLE STREET, E.G.
BRANCHES.
London, 60 Charing Cross.
„ 332 Oxford Street.
„ 40 Chancery Lane.
,, 42 Mincing Lane.
Birmingham, 10 Bennett's Hill
Potteries (Sub-Brancli), 10 I'all Mull,
liaiilcy.
Brighton, 3 Prince's Place.
Bristol, Clare Street.
Oardlflf, 13 Windsor Place.
Liverpool, 6 Chapel Street.
Manchester, S t King Street.
Blackburn (Snli-P.i-anch), Ricluncind Ti-r.
Yorkshire— Leeds, 15 Park Row,
,, Hull, Lowgate.
I Sub-Branches:— Bradford, Market St.
,, ,, Halifax, 15 Commercial St.
,, ,, Huddersfield, St. George's S().
Slieftield, 62 & 64 Fargate.
Newoastleon-Tyne, Collingwood Street.
Nottingham, 19 Low Pavement.
Pljrmouth, 59 Bedford Street.
Southampton, High Street,
Edinburgh, 40 Princes Street
Aberdeen (Sub-Branch), 46a Union St.
Glasgow, 42 Renfield Street,
Dublin, 9 College Green,
Belfast (Sub-Branch), 3S Rosemary St,
Insurances effected against the following Risks : —
F B R E.
RESULTANT LOSS OF RENT AND PROFITS.
EMPLOYERS' LIABILITY and WORKMEN'S COMPENSATION,
includinjr ACCIDENTS TO DOMESTIC SERVANTS.
PERSONAL ACCIDENT. SICKNESS and DISEASE.
FIDELITY GUARANTEE. BURGLARY. PLATE GLASS.
MODERATE RATES. PROMPT SETTLEMENTS.
LOSSES BY LIGHTNING ADMITTED UNDER FIRE POLICIES.
APPLICATIONS FOR AGENCIES INVITED.
G. S. Manvfi.i., Mavcgn-. Gko. E, Meai>, Secretary.
LONDON
41
WHERE TO STAY IN LONDON,
BEDFORD I IMPERIAL
SOUTHAMPTON ROW. RUSSELL SQUARE.
LONOOW.
600 Rooms. Genual ioi Business oi Pleasure.
Orchestra Dail_}' in Winter Garden.
Room toil T&ble d'Hole Breakfast from
NationxJ Telephone in every room.
WEST Central Hotel
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
ACCOMMODATION FOR ABOUT 250 GUESTS.
Recently Redecorated. Pronounced by the Press the
Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom.
Convenient for City or West=End — Business or Pleasure.
Highly commended by the Rt. Hon. Sir T. P. Whittaker, M.P. ; Rt. Hon.
T. W. Russell; Sir George White, M.P. ; Sir John M'Dougall; Sir
T. Vezey Strong, J. P. ; Viiry Rev. the Dean of Carlisle ; Very Rev. the
Dean of Hereford ; the Ven. Archdeacon of Durham ; Robert Cameron, Esq.,
M.P. ; J. S. Higham, Esq., M.P. ; George Toulmin, Esq., M.P. ; Rev. Dr.
Aked; Rev. Dr. Clifford; Rev. Dr. Horton ; Rev. J. H. Jowett, M.A., and
thousands of others from all parts of the World.
Excellent Public Rooms. Electric Light throughout.
Apartments, Service & Table d'Hote Breakfast, &om 5s. Dinner, 33.
Full Tariff on application to FREDERIC SMITH & SONS, Proprietors,
m Southampton row, london. ^
VICTORIA, S.W.
WILTON HOTEL
(Oppositi' S.E. .*c L.C.li. and L.B.H.C. Statious),
Specially convenient for Travellers to and from Continent and Suutli Coast Resorts.
IHTell Appointed, and Inexpensive.
VICTORIA is one of the best localities in London for ease of access to the best shops
and places of amusement. Buckingham Palace, Westminister Abbey, Houses of
Parliament, New Cathedral, St. James's, the Green and Hyde Parks, Pall Mall, ami
Piccadilly, are all within UXolb minutes' walk, and the principal Tlieatres within a
Is. Cab Fare or Id. Omnibus ride.
Rooms from 3s. 6d. Full Tariff on application.
Telegrams— " TuFFA TO, London." Telephone— 391 Victoria.
42
"THE" DEPOSITORY,
22 to 46 and 59 to 63 HARROW ROAD,
LONDON, W.
^^! HAPROW ROAD LONDON. J
mi
ARTHUR G. DIXON.
HERBERT HAYNES.
FOR REMOVING AND WAREHOUSING
FURNITURE, PIANOS, LUGGAGE, &c.
Special Accommodation for Luggage.
ri;OPRIETOUS
Telephone— PADDINGTON 89.
IV HAT TO SEE IN J.ONDON AND HUW TO SEE IT.
With thi)i book in his hand the visitor to London need hnve iw fear of missing anything
which is vjorth his while to see.
BLACK'S GUIDE TO LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS.
Coiil;uiiiii.t; liJ Majis ami I'laiis ami 0 lUiistiatiuiis.
Sixteenth Edition. Price is. net. (By Post, is. 3d.)
Kvory cdort has bt'en made in Ibis (luidy to coiiti.iri'.ss wlial iiinr \isitors out of
ten will wish to know into as small a space as is consistent with clear indications
and a readable .stvle.
A htv.nlifid Hout:
"/'
// /(( Lonihn, or n cliarnuiiii ijifi for fi IliuU al huiae, is
THE ROMANCE OF LONDON.
By GoRDuN Home.
Ccjutaining 12 I'ull-jiage Illustrations in Colour and li Line Diawings in the Text.
Larj?e Square Demy 8vo, Hoards, with IMcture Cover.
Price IS. 6d. net. (By Post is. lod.)
"Though the chronicle is brief, Mr. Home's text is carefully done, and he lias been
particular to choose his fa('ts from the best autlienticated of the histories, so that it
may be depended upon for accuracy. "-/'((// Moll Gazette.
"The full-page illustrations in colour, and line drawings in the text, are a puri
delight." — Daily Chronicle.
Published by ADAM .t CHARLES BIjACK, 4, 0, & 6 Soiio S«lark, London, W.
And'obtainahle of all Booksellers.
LONDON LOSSIKMOCTH LOUGH HWILLY LUIB. 43
"VISITORS TO LONDON."
XRANXERl'S
First-Class Temperance Hotel. 6, 7, 8, and 9 Bridgewater
Square, Barbican, E.G.
Most central for Business or Pleasure, li minutes' walk from Aldersf^alo Street
Station. 6 minutes' walk from St. Taul's Cathedral and G.P.O., and 7 to 10 minutes'
walk from City Temple and City Road Chapel. No charge for attendance. Electric
Light. Night Porter. Established 1859. Quiet, Home-Like, and Cninfortable.
TeFms— Bed and Breakfast 3s. 3d. to 5s. : op 6s. meat tea, bed, and
meat breakfast inclusive.
'Write for " How to Spend a Week in London," with Tariff and Testimonials free.
Telegrams — "Healthiest," London. Telephone — 959 Central.
WM. L0880CK (late of Peebles, Scotland), Proprietor.
LOSSIEMOUTH.
STOTFIELD HOTEL.
A PERFECT GOLFER'S RETREAT.
TWO SPLENDID GOLF COURSES (9 AND 18 HOLES).
EXCELLENT BATHING BEACH. MODERATE TERMS.
MAGNIFICENT NEW LOUNGE.
MOTOR CAR ACCOMMODATION. PETROL, Etc., Etc.
Tanff on appliccUion to WILLIAM CHRISTIE, Proprietor.
LOUGH SWILLY, CO. DONEGAL.
PORTSAIiON HOTEL.
T^HIS excellent Hotel, which affords Grst-class accommodation and every comfort to
-L Families, Golfers, and other Tourists, is magnificently situated, with southern
aspect, and commands sea and mountain views of matchless beauty. The Golf Links
(18 holes) are most sporting and picturesque. Good lake and sea lishing. Boating,
Bathing, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, Cycle Store, Garage, Dark Room fur Photography,
etc. Route via Strabane and Letterkenny, thence (during summer months) by Hotel
Motor. Telegrams — "Hotel," Portsalon."
Illustrated Brochure on application to MANAGER,
LUIB HOTEL
L.OCH TAY, GLEN DOCHART, PERTHSHIRE.
T)EAUTIFULLY situated on the banks of the River Dochait (wliich kas been re-
-*-* stocked from some of the best Hill Lochs in tlie district), surrounded by
wild, picturesque, and romantic scenery, six miles from the head of Loch Tay,
one mile from LuiV) Station on the Callander and Oban Railway. Visitors staying
at this Hotel have the privilege of Fishing, Free of Charge, on live miles of one
of the best Salmon Rivers in the West of Scotland, and excellent Trout Fishing on
the River, Loch Dochart, and Loch Tubhair. Boats Free. Golf Course. Every home
comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. Parties Boarded. Posting in all branches.
Post and Telegraph, Luib Station. Proprietor, DONALD M'NAUGHTON.
44
lA'NTON — LOOSE (near Maidstone).
LYNTON.
IMPERIAL HOTEL.
Beautifully Situated.
Facing Sea.
Luxurious Lounge newly added.
Electric Light throughout.
Moderate Terms.
Motor Oarage.
Telephone— tio. 50 Lynton.
B. F. LILEY, Proprietor.
LOOSE
LYNTON.
VALLEY OF ROCKS
HOTEL.
Largest and Principal.
Situated in own Grounds.
GOO Feet above and facing Sea.
Write for New Illustrated Tariff.
Motor Garage.
J. W. HOLMAN,
Resident Owner.
Telegrams : IIolman.
Telephone: No. 40.
Three Miles from
Maidstone.
"SALTS PLACE" BOARDING HOUSE.
In one of the beauty spots of Kent, 300 feet above sea-level.
Thi.s fine old house, standing in its own grounds, with large
]oft\' rooms and modern sanitary conveniences, is noted for its
homely comforts and good food. Moderate terms.
A. M. COTjK, Prnpricfrcss.
A BOOK FOR ALL LOVERS OF DICKENS.
THE DICKENS COUNTRY.
i;v y. G. KITTON.
Containing; :i:] lull-iia.;v lllnNtraticjiis Ironi PliutnL^iaplis. Crown Svo. Clotli.
Price 3s. 6d. net ('>.</ /'osv 3s. lOd.).
Many bookR and inaga/.ine artlclCH dealing exclusively with the sulijeet of Dickens-Laud liave been
published, in whicli tlie respectlA'e .'uithors have dealt with the topography of the gi'eat iioveliet's
writings. The present work is an ende:ivnur to trace the fftotsteps of Dickens himself, and to point
out the direct personal a.s»ociatioiis <if " Boz " with various towns and localities in Great Britain,
ijeginnlng with his birthplace at I'ortiiuoiith (now a Dickens Museum) and concluding with interesting
details concerning his faviuirite home at Gad's Hill,
I'iBUSHKD BY ADAM k CHAIILES HLACK, 4, 5, and (! Soho Syi ark, London, W.
And (ihlainahle of all Booksellers.
MALVERN — GREAT MAI.VERX. 45
MALVERN.
THE ABBEY HOTEL.
IN EXCELLENT SITUATION.
MOST COMFORTABLE FAMILY HOTEL.
New and Commodious Coffee and Smoking Rooms have been
opened, and Suites of Rooms with Private Bath added.
Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. JSledric Light throughout.
Telephone, No. 183. W. SCHNEIDER, Managtr.
MALVERN.
THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL
(PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY).
*• rpHE first time we visited Malvern, when shown into an upper
J- chamber in the ' Foley Aems, ' we were literally taken aback.
We can hardly say more than that the prospect strack us as far finer than
from the terrace over the Thames at Richmond, etc., etc." — Extract from
article in ^'Blackwood," August 1884.
Coffee Room and Drawing Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table d'Hote at
Separate Tables. Electric Light. Perfect Sanitary arrangements.
Telephone — No. 197 Malvern. Miss YOUNGER, Proprietress.
GT. MALVERN.
PORTLAND PRIVATE HOTEL
100 Feet South Front. 2^ Hours from Paddington.
DELIGHTFULLY situated in own grounds in centre of Malvern. Large and
handsome Lounge, Dining Room, Drawing Room, Billiard and Smoke Room,
recently added ; all South Aspect. Near College, Golf Links, Brine Baths, and Manor
Park Croquet and Tennis grounds. Electric Light througliout. Sanitary Certificate.
Illustrated tariff on application.
TEL. 151. SPECIAIi ATTENTION GIVEN TO CUISINE.
DANIEL WOODMAN, Proprietor and Manager.
MALVERN.
HARDWIGKE PRIVATE HOTEL
Enjoys the highest reputation. Redecorations have been carried out,
bathrooms added, and Electric Light installed throughout the building.
It is the nearest Hotel to the College and Qolf Links.
H. WILSON, Proprietor.
46 MATLOOK BATH MATLOCK.
MATLOCK BATH. '"^^^ Switzerland
■▼■^ I &-^^rv Pi^ ■ n. Qp ENGLAND."
ROYAL HOTEL AND BATHS
With the famous THERMAL SPRING, noted for its
anti-acid properties and efficacy in the cure of Gout,
Rheumatism, and Kindred Ailments.
Telephone No. 193. Telegrams: "Royal."
CONTINENTAL BATHS IN PERFECTION, under Medical supervision,
including Turkish, Nauheim, Carbonic Acid, Vichy, Aix, &c.
ELECTRIC TREATMENT : High Frequency, Four-Cell, Radiant Heat,
" X " Rays, &c.
FANGO DI BATTAGLIA (Volcanic Mud) PACKS. The most successful
cure for Gout, Rheumatism, Sciatica, Neuritis, and Nervous
Disorders.
THE HOTEL stands in its own beautiful and romantic pleasure grounds of 20 acres,
and is situated in the loveliest spot in Derbyshire.
Milanese Orchestra. Coaching. Billiards. Golf Links. Tenni.s. Croquet.
Fishing. Excellent Cuisine and Wines.
Accominodation for Motors and Inspection Pit.
Health and Pleasure Resort.
SMEDLEY'S HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT.
MATLOCK.
Established 1853.
ONE of the Largest and Most Complete in the Kingdom. An un-
rivalled Suite of Hydropathic Baths, including an Uji-to-date
Installation of Electrical Appliances.
Consulting and Resident Physicians.
A large Staff (upwards of 60) of Trained Male and Female Nurses,
Masseurs, and Bath Attendants.
Large Winter Garden. Extensive Pleasure Grounds.
MATLOCK GOLF LINKS, 18 HOLES, ABOUT 15 MINUTES' WALK.
Terms— 8s. 6d. to 12s. per day inclusive, according- to Bedroom.
No Extra Charge for Turkish and Ordinary Hydropathic Baths.
Illustrated Prospectus on application to
H. CHALLAND, Managing Director.
Telegrams —" Stiiedley's, Matlock Hank." Telephone No. 17.
MATLOCK MKLROSE. 47
MATLOCK.
ROCKSIDE HYDROPATHIC.
HIGH CLASS HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORT
FOR WINTER OR SUMMER.
Nearly 800 Feet above Sea-Level. Pure Mountain Air. Dry,
Bracing, Health-giving.
TENNIS (DRY AND GRASS COURTS). CROQUET (TWO LAWNS).
BOWLING. PUTTFNQ=GREEN. BILLIARDS.
NEAR THE GOLF LINKS (18 HOLES).
Spacious Lounge and Ball Room. New Baths now open, including
Turkish, Russian, and large Plunge. High-frequency, Schnee Four-Cell,
Electric Light and Heat Baths, and full Electrical Equipment.
£ilectric Liight and Lift.
Heating, Ventilation, and Sanitation on most
Modern Systems.
Motor Garage in Hydro Grounds.
Nat. Telephone, No. 12. Telegrams—" Rockside, Matlockbank."
Terms 7/6 to 10/6 per day. Winter Reduction.
Table d'Hote, 7 P.M.
IVritf for Illustrated ProspentMs to T^Uss GOODWIN, Mcmager.
MELROSE.
Tdvphone, 2T0. TeU'iraina, H.aiiiilton's Hotels.
GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL
AND
THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY GATE,
HIGH STREET.
THE only First -class Hotels in Melrose, both overlooking the Ruins, and only
2 minutes' walk from the Railway Station. The Hotel 'Buses attend all Trains.
First-class Horses and Carriages for Abbotsford, Dry burgh, etc., can be had at both
establishments.
Good Garage. Motor Cars for Hire. C. HAMILTON, Proprietor.
"No lover of Scott and the Scott Country can afford to miss this book. "
THE SCOTT COUNTRY.
Bv THE Rev. W. S. CROCKETT.
Ccintaininf; \Cr2 Illustrations, mostly from photographs. Crown Svo, cloth.
Price 3s. 6d. net (by Post 3s. lOd.).
SOME PRESS OPINIONS.
''A work which no lover of Scott and the Scott country can atloid Icj miss. 1( is
the best Scott book of recent years." — The Scots Pictorial.
" It is plea.sant to go with so cultivated and enthusiastic a guide on a sent^iincutal
piliirimage through the Scott country." — The Speaker.
Published by ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W.
AND OBTAINABLE PROM ALL BOOKSELLERS.
48 MOLLION NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNK— NEWCASIT.E, CO. DOWK.
MULLION, CORNWALL.
POLDHU HOTEL.
TjllRST Class, close to Hea, commands laaguiticeut views of Mounts
J- Bay with its grand Cliff Scenery. Good Beach. Excellent
Bathing.
Adjoining splendid Golf Links, 18 Holes.
Tariff Moderate. Apply Manager.
MULLION, CORNWALL.
MULLION COVE HOTEL.
Situation unsurpassed.
TjlIRST- CLASS HOTEL with magnificent Sea Views. Close to Sea.
-*- Fine Bathing, Boating, and Fishing. Excellent Golf Links. Billiards.
Book to Helston Station, G. W.R., thence per G."VV. R. Motor.
MoioK Gakage with Pit.
Tariff on application to iLiNAGER, Mullion Cove Hotel,
Mttllion, R.S.O.
NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE.
THE T7NE TEMPERANCE
HOTEL,
HOOD STREET, NEAR TO MONUMENT.
■yiSITORS will timl every comfort combined with moderate charges. Coffee,
Drawing, Commercial, Smoke and Billiard Rooms. Electric Light throughout.
Good Stock Rooms. National Telephone, 2144 Central. Telegrams, "Tyiie Hotel."
NEWCASTLE, CO. DOWN.
SLIEVE DONARD HOTEL,
FINEST HOTEL IN IRELAND.
OWNED AND MANAGED BY BELFAST AND COUNTY DOWN RAILWAY CO.
STANDS IN ITS OWN GROUNDS OF 12 ACRES. Faces Sea and Mourne Mountains :
Royal County Down Golf Links (18 holes) immediately adjoining. Spacious Reception
Rooms and Lounge ; 120 Bedrooms. Electric Light in all Rooms ; Passenger Lift ;
Hall and Corridors Heated : Hot and Cold Sea and Fie.sh Water, and Spray, Needle
and Vapour Baths. Motor Garage.
Tariff on application to W. F. COLLINS, Manager.
Telegrams: "Slievk, Newcastle, Down."
49-
OBAN, N.B.
GREAT WESTERN HOTEL,
Largest and Leading Hotel in West Highlands. Official Hotel S.A.C. and M.U.,
and Touring Club of America.
Unsurpassed position facing Bay and Yacht Anchorage — Most convenient for Trains
and Steamers— Luxurious Smoking Lounge overlooking Bay— Electric Light through-
out—Passenger Lift — Continental Languages spoken — Charges Moderate— Extensive
Improvements and Alterations have been made— The Sanitation has been thoroughly
OTerhauled and brought up to date— Special Boarding Terms prior to 15th July and
»fter 15th September — Bus attends Trains and Steamers and conveys Visitors Free
of Charge— Golf Course (IS holes) lo minutes' walk from Hotel— Garage— Petrol.
ALEX. M'GREGOR, Resident Proprietor.
OBAN.
KING'S ARMS HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND TOURIST HOTEL
ON the Promenade, midway between Railway Station and Pier. Facing
the Bay. Magnificent Sea View. A. A. & M.U. Headquarters.
Coupons accepted. Rebuilt and enlarged. Boarding. Will be found
replete. Near Golf Course (18 holes). Porters await arrival of all trains
and steamers. j^ M_ MacTAVlSH, Proprietor and Manager.
MARINE HOTEL
ESPLANADE, OBAN.
1 uiin. Pier, 3 mins. fjtation.
The Largest and Leading Temperance
Hotel. Upwards of 100 Rooms.
Lounge overlooking Bay.
Inehisire Termi: throughout the Season.
This High-Class unlicensed Hotel is
linn of the most popular houses in Scot-
l|ffb land, and is well known for its excellent
|T||Wr plain cooking and very moderate tarifl'.
W,\m BooKlet Sent,
iimn FRANK WALTON, Prop.
OBAN.
CRAIG-ARD HOTEL.
/COMMANDS the finest view of Oban Bay and surrounding scenery.
^ Nearest to Bowling Green and Golf Course. Visitors conveyed to
Hotel free. Private sitting-rooms, ladies' drawing-room, reading-room,
billiard-room. First-class cuisine, wines, etc. Charges strictly moderate.
Boarding by week or month.
Apply D. CAMERON, Manager.
4
50 OBAN— OKEHAMPTON — OXFORD.
OBAN.
PALACE TEMPERANCE HOTEL.
GEORGE STREET, OBAN.
EVERY HOME COMFORT.
BOOTS WAITS TRAIN AND STEAMER.
OKEHAMPTON, DEVON.
WHITE HART HOTEL.
(On the Borders of Dartmoor), Main Line L. & S. W. Rly.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. BUS MEETS TRAINS.
Posting in all its Branches. Coaching Trips over Dartmoor.
FISHING (free to Visitors staying in Hotel).
GARAGE (free). HUNTING. BILLIARDS.
Telegrams : JOHN G. HEYWOOD,
"White Hart, Okehampton." Proprietor.
THREE POPULAR OXFORD HANDBOOKS.
ALDEN'S OXFORD GUIDE.
One Hundred and Forty-second Tlionsand.
By Edward C. Alden. The Best Handbook for Visitors. Annually revised and
always up to date. Royal lijmo, profusely illustrated, and with a Key-Plan of the
City and University. Paper covers, 6d. net. Postage, 2d. With Appendix, "Old
Oxford," several additional illustrations, and a new Colonred Map, in eloth lettered,
la. net. Postage, 3d.
/.'.)/ the name Avthor.
Oblong Foolscap 4to, in cover of Oxford blue and LOld. I'riee Is. net. Postage, 3d.
OXFORD.
HISTORICAL -DESCRIPTIVE— PICTORIAL.
With Notes on Oxford Architecture.
Illustrated by Ninety Photographs, reproduced in the Highest Style of Art.
" One of the must useful and interestinj^ books on (.)xfoi'd lli.'d has been i)ublished.'
—Oxford Times.
NEAR OXFORD.
A Pojnilar Historical and Architectural Handbook to ovit One Hundred Places ol
interest within about fifteen miles. By the Rev. H. T. Inman, M.A. Royal IGino.
uniform with Aklen's Oxford Guide. With Map and numerous Illustrations, Apprji-
dices, Glossary, and Index. Third edition, paper covers, Is. net. Postage, 2d. t »n
Art paiier. clotli lettered, 2s. net. Postage, 3d.
Oxford: ALDEN k CO., Ltd., 3.0 CORN-MARKET STREET.
I.ONDON : SIMHKrN, MARSHALL, PAMILTOV, KENT ANP GO,, LTp,
OXFORD. 61
OXFORD.
RANDOLPH HOTEL,
BEAUMONT STREET,
IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.
THE modern Hotel of Oxford, close to the Colleges, Public
Buildings, and opposite Martyrs' Memorial. Replete with
every comfort and convenience.
Handsome Suites of Rooms, General, Drawing, Smoking,
and Billiard Rooms.
NEW GARAGE. AN AMERICAN ELEVATOR. CHARGES MODERATE.
A Night Porter in Attendance.
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT.
Address — THE MANAGER.
OXFORD.
THE MITRE HOTEL,
SITUATED in the centre of the finest Street in Europe, is
one of the most ECONOMICAL First-Class Hotels in the
Kingdom. Dining, Drawing, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Lounge
and Spacious Billiard Room. Electric Light. Night Porter. Good
Stabling.
OXFORD UNIVERSITY.
THE EXTENSION SUMMER MEETING of 1911 will be held in OXFORD,
August 3-28 inclusive.
General Subject — GERMANY : its contribution to History, Literature,
Theology, Philosophy, Science, Economic Theory, and Fine Art. The following
are expected to take part : Dr. C. B. Heberden, Vice-Chancellor ; Viscount
Haldane ; Dr. R. W. Macau, Sir W. A. Tilden, Sir Joseph Larmor, Dr. W. H.
Hadow ; Professors Gotch, Bourne, Fiedler, Osier, Brandl. Carpenter; the Bp. of
Bristol, the Dean of Worcester, Rev. H. Scott Holland ; Messrs. Salomon Reinach,
H. J. Mackinder, M.P., Rev. W. H. Shaw, etc. Ticket for the whole Meeting,
30s. ; for either part, £1 : Is. Extra fees for special courses and classes. Board
and lodging can be obtained in Oxford from a1)0ut 25s. a week, or less for a party.
All I a formation to be obtained from J. A. R. MARRIOTT, MA,
University Extension Office. Oxford.
52
PEBBLES — PENRITH (see p. 63) PENZANCE — PERTH.
PEEBLES HOTEL HYDROPATHIC.
THE MOST SUMPTUOUSLY APPOINTED ESTABLISHMENT
OF THE KIND IN GREAT BRITAIN.
600 feet above Sea-Level.
Lovely Scenery.
Pure Bracing Air.
Delightful Grounds.
Pine Woods adjoining.
Golf, Tennis, and
Bowling Greens.
Excellent Roads for
Motoring and Cycling.
GOLF. — Excellent 18-Hole Course near. Charming Walks and Drives.
MOTOR GARAGE. MOTORS ON HIRE. EXCURSIONS DAILY.
A complete installation of all tbe latest BATHS and
ELECTRICAL TREATMENT. RESIDENT PHYSICIAN.
Send for Illustrated Tariff to A. M. THIEM, Managing Director.
PENZANCE.
MOUNT'S BAY HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY.
On the Esplanade. Facing the Sea. Full South Aspect.
Ladies' Coffee and Drawing Rooms. Smoke Room, for Visitors only,
with Grand Sea View. Moderate and Inclusive Terms for Winter Months.
'Bus meets Trains. Boating, Fishing, and Bathing.
WALTER N. PULMAN, Froprieior.
SALUTATION HOTEL,
PERTH.
FIRST=CLASS HOTEL.
Official Hotel Automobile Club.
Pour-in- Hand Couches for Braemar during: Season start
from Hotel.
Fishing. Boating. tiolfing.
PITLOCHRY — P0RTRU8H — PORTSMOUTH — PORTSTEWART. 53
PITLOCHRY.
CENTRAL PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS.
LIST OF FURNISHED HOUSES TO LET
FOR SUMMER MONTHS, &c.
Free by Post, ironi C. C. STUART & SON.
Telegrams — " Stuakt, Pitlochry."
' PORTRUSH, CO. ANTRIM.
NORTHERN COUNTIES HOTEL.
(OWNED BY THE MIDLAND RAILWAY CO.)
FINEST GOLF LINKS IN IRELAND.
SPLENDID SUITES OF SEA AND FRESH WATER BATHS.
Electric Light Throughout. Garage for Motors.
Lounge Hall. Magnificent Ballroom.
Telegraphic Address—" MIDOTEL, PORTRUSH." Telephone No. 14.
Full particulars on applicotiiyn to
F. AUDINWOOD, Manager, Northern Counties Committee's Hotels, etc.
PORTSMOUTH.
SPEEDWELL.
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, opposite town station.
(Book for Portsmouth Town).
Every accommodation for Commercial and Private Visitors.
NIGHT BOOTS. RESTAURANT.
ALFRED GRIQSBY, Proprietor.
PORTSTEWART, CO. DERRY, IRELAND, N.
(MIDLAND RAILWAY.)
CARRiQ = NA=CULE HOTEL.
TfiAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. Delightfully situated on the North Atlantic.
^ Overlooking the most beautiful bay in Ireland. Recently enlarged and redecorated.
New Lounge. Contains upwards of 50 Rooms. Balcony along entire Frontage. (No
Licence.) Special Boarding Hates 5s. tid. to 6s. 6d. per Diem, according to Rooms.
References on application. 2 Golf Courses convenient, 9 and IS holes.
Telegrams— " Henry, Portstewart." Telephone No. 3.
SAMUEL R. HENRY, Proprietor.
54
RAMSGATK — ROSTREVOK.
RAMSGATE.
Telephone 306.
Best Fishing on
the Coast.
Ageat B.S.A
%^^1
S^i
U
^^Hj^:
w
^^
FAMILY & COMMERCIAL.
SPECIAL TARIFF
FOR ANGLERS.
Headquarters R. & D.
Angling Association.
(Opposite the Harbour.)
GOOD COMFORTABLE HOUSE.
TEA, BED, AND BREAKFAST, 5/- GOOD STOCK ROOMS.
RAMSGATE
HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENTS.
Messrs. VINTEN & SON,
72 HIGH STREET, RAMSGATE.
ESTABLISHED 60 YEARS.
Register Gratis. All the Best Houses.
ALL MODERN PILGRIMS TO CANTERBURY SHOULD POSSESS THIS BOOK.
By
GORDON HOME.
CANTERBURY
Containing 12 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour by W. Biscombe Gardner.
Large Squari; Demy !^\o, Buaids, witli Picturr Cover.
Price Is. 6d. net. (.By Post Is. lOd.)
"C;iiiteibiii-y" is .jiii- of A. .-iiid C. Black's New Colour Series entitled •■Beautiful Biitaiti." tlie
various volumes of which deal with souie of the most famous anil picture-sque parts of the Kingdom.
They tnark a significant epoch in colour printing by bringing lor the first time a high-cUus colour hook
ii'irhiv thi: rriirh of all. Without lieing guide books the volumes in each ease tell the reader the things
fhnt nrv worth knowing an<l remembering: a>tout each plai-e or district,
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, AND 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
.!«'/ ul.i'.utml.U ujall llo<>l;:<elkrs.
ROSTREVOR, Co. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL.
{Owned and manat/ed by the (jheat Northern Jlaihvat/ Co., Ire/ and.)
Beautifully situated on Carlingford Lough. Luxuriously fitted
;uid furnished, and lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and
Freeh Water Baths. .Motor Acconiinodaliou.
For terms, apply to the Manager at the Hotel.
I'jil Telegraphic Adilress — " Norihkkn Hostrevok."
ROTHESAY ST. ANDRKWS — ST. FU.LaNS. 65
ROTHESAY.
QUEEN'S ^m HOTEL.
A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.
ON WEST BAY.
HEADQUARTERS OF ROYAL NORTHERN YACHT CLUB.
All Public Rooms overlook Bay. Large Gardens behind.
MODERATE CHARGES. EXCELLENT CUISINE.
T. lephone No. 58. Miss THOMPSON, Proprietress.
ROTHESAY.
BUTE ARMS HOTEL.
OpjJosite the Pier.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. MODERATE TARIFF. EXCELLENT CUISINE.
Nearest Hotel to the Golf Course.
The Sanitary Arrangements are entirely new throughout the House.
Table d'Hote, 6.30. Billiard Eoom.
Telephone No. 15. ROBERT SMITH, Proprietor.
ST. ANDREWS, N.B.
ELDER'S PRIVATE HOTEL
FIRST-CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL.
Close to Station and Links.
TABLE D'HOTE, SEPARATE TABLES. LABGE DRA"WING-
BOOM AND PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS.
Sanitary Arrangements complete.
Moderate Charges. DAVID ELDER, Lessee.
Telephone 116. {Late Foyers Hotel, Loch Ness.)
ST. FILLAXS, PERTHSHIRE.
DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND TOURIST HOTEL.
SPLENDIDLY SITUATED AT THE FOOT OF LOCH EARN.
GOLF. FISHING. BOATING. POSTING. GARAGE.
TERMS MODERATE.
TELEGRAMS— Hotel, St. Fillans. R. A. CAMPJsELL, J'ruprietur.
In connection with Station hotel, Oban.
56 (SABK — see CIlANNEt, I8LAXt>s) — SCARBOROUGH.
SCARBOROUGH.
ASHLEY'S SPA BOARDING
ESTABLISHMENT
STANDS in own Grounds (only 150 yards from the Spa Gates),
and is acknowledged to be the best equipped and most
tlioroughly up-to-date Establishment in the district. Full staff of
competent servants. Chef and Kitchen staff from Oxford College.
The Spa is the only Establishment Central that has a Passenger
Elevator, Electric Light and Gas in all Bedrooms, full-sized
dry Tennis Court, Croquet Ground, Garage. Cars for Hire.
Tlie House contains Drawing Room, large and lofty Dining
Hall, LiVjrary, and Smoking Rooms, and upwards of 80 Bedrooms ;
also Recreation Room ahiyajs available.
AMUSEMENTS A FEATURE. DANCE EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT.
Baths, Lavatories, and all Sanitary Appliances of the
most approved and up-to-date pattern.
MODERATE TARIFF.
Xiitional Telephone No. 100. g Q ASHLEY.
Reg. Telegraphic Address : " Ashley, Scarborough."
SCARBOROUGH.
ASHLEY'S SPA VIEW,
ST. NICHOLAS CLIFF.
Under the same Proprietorship as the Spa Boarding Establishment.
ASHLEY'S Sjja View Boarding Establishment, Scarborough,
enjoys the finest position, being the nearest Boarding Establish-
ment to the Sea. Uninterrupted views of the South Bay. Every
comfort of visitors carefully studied.
BEAUTIFULLY FURNISHED THROUGHOUT.
FULL-SIZED BILLIARD TABLE.
liounge and Dining Room with Sea Vie\7s.
Very Moderate Tariff.
KTHEL ASHLEY, Mana(i€re.^s.
(Aslilpy's \Ad., Prnprietor.'s. )
SHKtLAND— SKYE SLEIGHTS. 67
SHETLAND— DUNROSSNESS.
Trout Fishing and Seal and other Shooting.
SPIGGIE HOTEL, DUNROSSNESS, SHETLAND.
LOG II Spiggip, the largest IjOcIi in Slietlaiid, and famed for its Trout Fishing, within
two minutes' walk of tlie house. Six boats on Loch. Loch IJrow and other Lochs
and burns in the vicinity. Sea-Trout fishing in the Bay. Sea Bathing on beautiful sandy
beacli quite near the liouse. Seal Shooting near Fitful and Sumburgli Heads. Very
suitable ground for Golf Course or Cricket. Good Roads for Cycling. Charges moderate.
Ronte per Mail Steamer to Lerwick, thence driving to Dunrossness ; or by Mail
Steamer direct to Spiggie from Leith and Aberdeen fortnightly during Summer and
Autumn. Golf Course marked otf, and Croquet set provided, and extensive additional
accommodation prepared this season. Address — R. & T. Henderson, Proprietors.
ISLE OF SKJE.
BROADFORD HOTEL.
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.
THE best starting-place for the CuchuUins, Loch Scavaig, and Loch Coruisk, which
are seen to greatest advantage when approaclied from the Sea. Good Sea, River,
and Loch Fishing ; also Boats free of charge. Parties Boarded at Moderate Terms.
All Steamers between Oban, Kyle of Lochalsh, Portree, Gairloch, Stornoway,
Mallaig, etc., call here daily.
Boots will await arrival of Steamers during the Season. Motor Cars on hire by
day or week. Also
Posting. Post and Telegraph Office.
M. MACINNBS (late of Tongue), Lessee.
KYLEAKIN, SKYE.
KING'S ARMS HOTEL.
THIS Large and Commodious House, recently acquired by the present Proprietor, is
furnished with all the requirements of a First-Class Hotel. It is situated in the
midst of the Grandest Scenery in the West Highlands, on the Beach of the Kyle, the
well-known Health Resort and Yachting Station. The Glasgow and Liverpool Steamers
call daily, and the terminus of the Highland Railway (Kyle of Lochalsh) is within half
a mile ; also daily Steamer direct from Mallaig. Lochs Coruisk and Scavaig can be
done by Steamer from Kyleakin Twice a Week, Loch Duich Three Times a Week. The
best Boating and Bathing Beach on the Coast. Fishing. Posting. Finest Wines and
Old Highland Whiskies. Moderate Tariff. Special Terms to Weekly and Monthly
Boarders. M. MACINNES, Proprietor.
Telegraphic Address — " Macinnes, Kyleakin."
SLEIGHTS, near Whitby.
STATION HOTEL.
THREE BITLES FROM WHITBY.
Near River and Moors. Yery Comfortable.
MODERATE CHARGES.
Proprietress, Miss R. H. COPE.
58 SLIGO — SOUTHAMPTON — BODTHFORT.
SLIGO.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
Patroaised by His Excellency The Lord- Lieutenant (Earl Dudley),
the Nobility, and Gentry.
rpOURISTS, Anglers, and Families will iind every comfort, combined
J- with cleanliness and moderate charges. Private Sitting- Rooms,
Baths — Hot, Cold, and Shower. Golf. Billiards. Posting in all it.-
branches. Omnibus attends all trains. Gentlemen staying at this Hotel
have the privilege of Free Fishing for Salmon and Trout on Lough Gill and
River Bonnet. Cook's Coupons accepted. Garage, j. a. HALL, Propiidui-.
BALMOR'AL HOTEL, " ^ " ' "^^ hall,"
"To... SOUTHAMPTON. " ^fl^l,. SOUTHAMPTON.
fPHiy HOTEl. is in the hraltliicst lesi- TTIGH-CLASS Boaidiiig Establishment,
J- deiitial part of Southampton. Quiet, •'--'- en pension. Central for ijusiness
yet central. Billiards, Tennis, Croquet, or pleasure. Electric Lij,'ht. Separate
Opened last December. Tables.
Bed-Breakfast from 4/6 ; per Day from ' Bed-Breakfast from 3/6 : per Day from
7/6 ; per Week from 42/. i 5/6 ; per Week (inclusne) from 30/.
Phone, 1108. Telegram.s :" Pension, I Phone 1108a.
Southampton." For Tariff Cards apply Manageke.ss.
SOUTHAMPTON WATER, NEW FOREST, AND SOUTH HANTS.
WALLER & KING, F.A.I.
(Successors to PERKINS & SONS, Est. 1819.)
AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS, HOUSE, LAND, AND
ESTATE AGENTS.
THE AUCTION MART, SOUTHAMPTON.
Nat. Telephone No. 230. Telegrams: " Auctioneers, Soutbamptoa."
SOUTHPORT— BIRKDALE PARK.
SMEDLEY HYDROPATHIC.
Electric Lift. Attractive Lounge. Electric Light. New Dining Room.
WELL adapted for Summer or Winter residence, for either Invalids or Visitors.
Terms from 7s. Gd. per day. (Summer terms from June 1 to Sept. 30 from 6s. per
day or 38h. Cd. per week.) Turkish, Russian, Plunge, and other Baths. Electric Cars
run from the Hydro to .Southport every IS minutes.
Hydropathy /nil y treated, under own rhysician, J. G. G. CorkhiU, M.D.
MBAR OOXiF LINKS. IiAlffN TENNIS, BILLIARDS, ETC.
For Prospectus, apply Manageress.
STIRLING STRATH PEFFEK 8PA. 59
STIRLING.
WAYERI.EY HOTEL,
MURRAY PLACE.
(HIGH-CLASS TEMPERANCE.) Established over Half-a-Century.
REMODELLED AND REDECORATED.
FOR FAMILIES, TOURISTS, AND BUSINESS GENTLEMEN.
FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT IN CONNECTION.
COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED. CHARGES MODERATE.
Telephone 287. Motor Garage. Officially Appointed by Scottish Automobile Club
P. MoALPINE, Proprietor.
strathpeffer" '
SPA HOTEIi.
Patronised by Royalty.
THE OLDEST-ESTABLISHED AND LEADING HOTEL.
Highest ami Finest Situation. Salmon and Trout fishing on Blackwater anil Couon,
and Lochs Garve and Luichart. Cricket. Tennis. Croquet. Close to fine 18-hole Golf
Course. Contains Spacious Public Rooms, Private Apartments en suite, Recreation
and Ball Rooms, Conservatories, and is secluded enough to ensure to visitors the
Privacy and Quiet of an ordinary Country Residence. Electric light throughout.
Reduced terms for Spring and Autumn months. Posting in all its branches.
Garage. Motor Cars on Hire, and Petrol, etc., supplied.
Telegrams — " Wallace, Strathpeffer."
8TRATHPEFFER SPA, ROSS-SHIRE. ^^^r^rZ^EdTntV^h.
THE PRINCIPAL HOTEL:
THE BEN WYVIS.
Finest situation in extensive Pleasure Grounds. In lull view of grand Highland Scenery.
EVERY HOJVIE COMFORT. Electric Light. Lift to all Floors.
PUBLIC & PRIVATE APARTMENTS EN SUITE.
Private path to the Wells & Hath.s Headquarters of the R. and S. A. Clubs,
and to th'^ Spa Gardens, m winch
a splendid Orchestra plays daily. Spacious Garage. Salmon & Trout Fishing.
Near Superior Golf Course (18 holes). | Telegrams— '■ Ben Wyvis. '
Note. — Illustrated Tariff Booklet fret oa Application.
STRATHPEFFER SPA.
BALMORAL LODGE,
FIRST-GLASS PRIVATE HOTEL.
QITUATED on tiie hill, commanding a line view, with Southern exposure ; close to
^J the Mineral Wells, Baths, and Golf Course. Public Dining-Room (separate tables)
and Drawing-Room. Private Parlours. Large Smoking- Room. Terms on application.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. Mrs. DUNNET, Proprietiix.
60 STRATHPEFFER SPA — SUTHERLAXDSHIRE SWANAGE.
STRATHPEFFER SPA, ROSS-SHIRE.
MACGREQOR'S PRIVATE HOTEL.
NEAR THE SPA,
THE GOLF COURSE, AND STATION.
BILLIARDS. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT.
MRS. MACGREGOR, Proprietrix.
SUTHERLAND.
SCOURIE HOTEL, SUTHERLANDSHIRE.
SITUATED on West Coast, amidst finest Highland Scenery, and close to Hamla
Island, with its magnificent cliffs and exten.sive bird life. Unsurpassed in Briti.sh
Isles. E.\cellent Brown Trout Fishing on over 40 Lochs ; also good Sea Trout and
Sea Fishing. 15 Boats kept.
GOOD SEA BATHING. MOTOR AND HORSE HIRING.
Telegraphic comnumication. Route : Rail to Lairg, thence per daily or special Motor,
or MacBrayne's weekly Steamer from Glasgow to Badcall, 3 miles distant.
M. E. ROSS. Proprietor.
SWANAGE.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.
(the only hotel with PliKFLX OF KOYAL.)
The Oldest Established— Facing Sea— Close to the Pier. Open all the Year Round.
Wing Recently Added with Spacious Billiard, Reading, and Smoking Rooms.
Omnibus Meets Trains. Motor Garage. Nat. Tel. 200, Swanage.
Miss I. VINCENT, Proprietress.
WONDERFUL WESSEX. THE COUNTRY OF THOMAS HARDV.
WESSEX.
By C. G. HARPEK.
Containing 12 fiiU-jiagi' Illustrations in Colour by Walter 'I'yndale. Large Squan?
Demy 8vo. Hoaids, with Picture Cover. Price Is. 6d. nrt (hji I 'est Is. lOd.).
THE HAHD^COUNTHY,
\W ('. (;. HARPER.
Containing ill! Illustrations. Crown 8vo. Cloth. Price 3s. 6d. net (')i/ Poi/ 3s. lOd.).
PUBLISHED BY
ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LOXUON, \V.
And o'ltniiwhle of all Bool^sellers.
TENBY TORQUAY. 61
TENBY.
THE COBOURG HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS, with Modern Iinprovenieuts. Delightfully situated, com-
manding picturesque views of the North Bay, with Private Lawn on Cliff.
Spacious Lounge. Noted for Ijest English food and cooking. Private Garage.
On the official list of the R.A.C.
Also Royal Hotel, Bath.
Mrs. J. B. HUGHES, Proprietress.
TORQUAY.
OSBORNE HOTEL.
High Class, Family and Residential. Close to Sea.
GOOD BOATING. SECLUDED SAFE BATHING.
TENNIS. CROQUET. GOLF. PRIVATE GROUNDS.
Special Summer and Week=End Terms.
Osborne Posting Establishment and Garage in connection with Hotel.
Telephone 183. Telegrams, "Osbonotel." RESIDENT PROPRIETOR.
TORQUAY.
HOUSE 81 ESTATE AGENTS,
AUCTIONEERS, SURVEYORS, VALUERS, ETC.
COX & SON,
(lar. IVILKINSON cox, F.A.I. , C. M, MYOTT, A.A.I.)
8 STRAND.
Established 1805. Illustrated Property List on application.
Telegrams : " Cox & Son, Torquay." Nat. TeL No. 8.
TORQUAY. TORQUAY^
HOUSE AGENTS,
SMITH & SON, A.A.I. ,
9 STRAND, TORQUAY. Established 1867.
Illustrated Register of all available Houses post free.
Also Special Lists of Apartments. Telephone 14.
62 TROSSACHS
TROSSACHS.
STRONACHLACHAR HOTEL,
HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.
DONALD FERGUSON, Propriktor.
THIS Hotel, the only one on the shores of Loch Katrine, is most
beautifully situated in the heart of ROB ROY'S Country ;
GLENGYLE and the romantic GRAVEYARD of CLAN
GREGOR, both described at page 77 of "Perthshire Guide,"
being in close proximity ; and as a fishing station it is unsurpassed-
Excellent boats and experienced boatmen are kept for parties staying
at the Hotel
The Hotel is replete with every comfort, and is reached either by way of
Callander and Trossachs and the Loch Katrine Steamer, or by the Loch
Lomond Steamer and Coach from Inversnaid, there being a full service of
Coaches and Steamers by both these routes during the season.
Post and Telegraph Office In Hotel.
BOARD BY WEEK OR MONTH.
Carriages and other Conveyances kept for Hire.
Address : STRONACHLACHAR, by InvftTsnaid.
DELIGHTFUL SOUVENIRS OF
''BONNIE SCOTLAND."
Two Volumes in the " Bfai'tikui. Ukitain " Series.
THE TROSSACHS. | THE FIRTH OF CLYDE.
l>y G. E. .MiTTnN. I ]^.y Ma( kknzu; M.VCUUUiK.
Containing 12 Full-Page Illustrations in j Containing 12 Full-Page Illustrations in
colour, l>y Sutton Palmer and \ Colour, by .1. Voiino Hun'ter anfl
Others. I Sutton Palmer.
large Square Demy 8vo, Boards, with Picture Cover.
Price, Is. 6d. net each. (By Post, Is. lOd.)
This is a new series of colour-hooks produced at a populai price, and they are tlic
most inexpensive hooks of this character whidi liave e\er heen ijiodnced. They therr
fore make a significant ejioch in coloui-jirinling, brrmjind for tltr Jbvt time o hvili-chiss-
ralnur-hiiok vnthln tht reach of all. The illustrations are liy well-known artists, ami
their work has been reproduced with the greatest accuracy, while the printing
reaches an exceedingly high level which will satisfy the most exacting reader. The
authors have been selected with great care, and are well known for the charm of their
style and the; accuracy of their information. Without being Guide Hooks the volumes
in each case tell the ri-ader the things that are worth knowing and remembering alioui
each place or district, and either as a reminder of ]>leasant days or a means of
l)0inting out the most beautiful i]laces in our land, tin- whole series will fullil their
liurpose.
Piwn.isHED liv ADAM iV CHAIiLKS BLACK, 4, o & 0 Soho Sqi-akk, London, W.
Ami (ih/ciiKihle of all Booksellerf.
TRUKO TUNBRIDGE WKLT.8 ULLSWATER.
63
TRURO.
RED LION HOTEL.
Established 1671.
Birthplace of Foote the Tragedian. Centre of City. Close to Cathedral.
Table d'Hote Dinner 7.30.
Motor Oarage, Telepboae 199.
Manageress— MIB^ CARLYON.
TUNBRIDGE WELLS.
THE SPA HOTEL.
HOTEL-DE-LUXE.
Telephone, 56.
HIGH-
CLASS
CUISINE.
EXCELLENT
SERVICE.
60 ACRES
PARK.
GOLF.
TENNIS.
CROQUET.
ELEVATOR.
Unequalled.
PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY.
Telegrams: "SPA."
Orchestra.
TURKISH,
^ RADIANT,
I HEAT, and
" S WIMMING
BATHS.
Post and
Telegraph
on
Premises.
GARAGE.
STABLING.
FACING SOUTH.
HEALTH RESORT.
For Brochure, apply MANAGER.
THE FAVOURITE HOTEL OF WORDSWORTH.
PATTERDALE HOTEL,
ULLSVTATER, PENRITH.
BEAUTIFULIjY situated in own grounds near the head of UUswater, an excellent
centre for many charming walks and climbs ; Helvellyn, Aira Force, and Kirk-
stone Pass are within easy distance. The Hotel adjoins Post and Telegraph Ofliice,
and is near the Church.
POST HORSES AND COMFORTABLE CARRIAGES.
Misses HUDSON, Proprietresses.
64 VALENCIA WARRKNPOINT — WEMYSS BAY.
VISIT THE KERRY HIGHLANDS,
VALENCIA, CO. KERRY.
40 miles by rail west of Killarncy and ItjJ hours from London by the G. W. Railway
Fishguard and Rosslare Route. — Over the most magnificent scenery in the British
Isles— Situate on the Grand Atlantic Route— Railway Station, Valencia Harbour.
ROYAL HOTEL, VALENCIA.
THIS Hotel has been patronised by Their Most Gracious Majesties The King
and Queen and T.KH.'s the Duke and Duchess of Connaught.
This Hotel is now considered one of the most comfortable and modern in the
Country — Hot and Cold Sea-Water Baths pumped daily from the Atlantic — Bathing,
Boating, and first-class Sea P'ishing in front of the Hotel — The Atlantic Cables
connecting the Old and New World can be seen in full operation.
The scenery on Valencia is considered some of the finest in Ireland — Lord John
Manners, in his interesting Notes, says, "No words can describe the fascination
of the scene from the cliffs at Valencia " ; and Lord Tennyson, on the occasion of his
last visit to Valencia, wrote that "He found there the highest waves that Ireland
knows. Cliffs that at one spot rise to a height of 800 feet. Tamarisks and fuchsias
that no sea winds can intimidate."
There is a very pretty 9-hole Golf Course near the Hotel. Terms very moderate.
Posting attached. Comfortable boats and steady boatmen.
WARRENPOINT, Co. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL.
Owned and managed by the Great Northern Railway Company (Ireland).
Fine Position at the head of Carlingford Lough. Sea aud Fresh
Water Baths (hot or cold). Electric Light.
MOTOR ACCOMMODATION.
For terms, apply to the Manager at the Hotel.
l^ill Telegraphic Address — " Northern Warrenpoint. "
WEMYSS BAY.
WEMYSS BAY HOTEL.
THIS HOTEL IS NOW ENTIRELY UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT
AND REFURNISHED.
THE ABOVE COMMANDS ONE OF THE FINEST VIEWS ON THE CLYDE.
Families Boarded per Day or Week.
Daily Steamboat Connection to all Parts of the Clyde.
RECOMMENDED BY A. A. AND MOTOR UNION.
U. U. WILLIAMSON, Vroyridor.
WKMYSS BAY — WORKINGTON — WORTHING.
WEMYSS BAY.
Dr. PHI LP'S
65
WEMYSS BAY HYDROPATHIC,
SKEL.MORLIE, N.B.,
■§l >
OS
[/a
V oo.
pa
C/3
60 minuies froin Glasgow On Skelmorlie Heights, overlooking the most beautiful
and varied Scenery on the Clyde
MOST COMPLETE ELECTRO-MEUIGftL :nSTALL«TiOn. RECOMMENDED BY PRINCIPAL PHYSICIANS.
10-0 a.m. Direct Corridor Express from LONDON (Euston) arrives WEMYSS BAY at 8-30 p m.
Centre for all Tovirs and Excursions. 'Bus uieet,? all Trains.
Dr. PHILP. Proprietor (late of (Jlenburn and Dunblane).
WORKINGTON.
CENTRAL HOTEL
(Adjoining Central Railway Station).
EXTENSIVE ALTERATIONS COMPLETED.
ONE OF THE FINEST AND MOST LUXURIOUS DINING-HALLS
IN THE NORTH.
Good Stock Rooms.
Posting in all its Branches. 'Bus meets all Trains.
Telephone 250. J. KERLY, Proprietor.
WORTHING.
WARNE'S HOTEL,
FOR LUXURY AND COMFORT. 150 ROOMS.
30 FACING SEA. FROM 12s. A DAY INCLUSIVE.
Telephone in every Room. Billiard Room free to Guests. Large Recreation Room.
Garage to hold 50 Cars. Unequalled in Situation. Great Variety of excellent Wines.
Best Cuisine. Golf Course. Pier. Coursing. Hunting.
Tel. No. : 365 Worthing.
Telegrams: "WARNE, WORTHING."
5
66
GREAT YARMOUTH RAILWAYS.
THE BRACING EAST COAST
GREAT YARMOUTH.
THE ROYAL,
THE QUEEN'S.
HOTEL VICTORIA,
NAT. TEL. 26.
NAT. TEL.. 28.
NAT. TEL. 205.
THESE THliEE
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTELS
EACH OCCUPYING A COMMANDING POSITION ON THE
MARINE PARADE
MAGNIFBCENT SEA VIEWS, AND
OPPOSITE THE BEACH GARDENS.
Now under the Proprietorship of J. MT. NIGHTINGALE.
Illm-trated Tariffs Post Free.
Lyme Regis.
WEYMOUTH
Seaton.
Bldmonth.
Lee-on-tbe-Solent
Boattuea.
I8LE OF WIGHT.
tLFRACOMBE.
Lynton. Bade.
Bide ford
Wadebrldge.
Padstnw.
EXETER.
Exmouth.
Budlelgh-
Salterton.
Tavistock.
PLYMOUTH.
Cheap Tickets from WATERLOO < LONDON). See Programmes.
CORRIDOR TRAINS-BREAKFAST AND DINING CARS.
The Best Route —
via ST. MALO for
BRITTANY.
Popular Tourist Route — "Via Southampton"
For PARIS & THE CONTINENT
NEW DAYLIGHT SERVICE DURING THE SUMMER.
Full [iiirtii'iilars iijinri niiplicltion to Sir.
(■I1.A.<
ulent of the Line,
, tirnernL Manager
RAILWAYS.
67
RAILWAY TRAVELLERS
And others solicitous for the welfare of the widows
and fatherless are earnestly invited to assist the
philanthropic work of the
LONDON AND SOUTH WESTERN
J
RAILWAY !
ORPHANAG
By contributing a coin to " LONDON JACK'S " case at Waterloo
Station, or to the box carried by "LONDON JACK III.," who is
"on duty" at Waterloo in charge of his mistress, Mrs. Wickens,
every week-end.
The Institution now maintains 120 orphans, and funds are urgently needed
to provide for their efBcient maintenance, and lor the up-keep of the New
Orphanage at Woking, opened by H.R. H. the Duchess of Albany in 1909.
Subscriptions or Donations in support of the good cause will also be gladly
received by the Stationmaster at any L. & S. W. Ry. Station, by the District
Secretaries at Basingstoke, Bournemouth, Eastleigh, Exeter, Portsmouth,
Salisbury, Southampton, Strawberry Hill, and Woking ; or by
The Secretary, Mr. H. G. WARNE,
at the Orphanage, Woking, Surrey.
68
RAILWAYS.
FURNESS RAILWAY.
(CONISTON FROM BEACON CRAGS.)
20 Rail, Coach, and Steam Yacht
TOURS THROUGH LAKELAND
EVERY WEEK-DAY
From June 1st to September 30th.
The following Tours embrace the chief places of interest in the
Lake District.
No. I. — Outer Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, Fnrness Abbey, and
Coniston.
No. 2.— Inner Circular Tour, embracing Furness Abbey, Coniston Lake
and Crake Valley.
No. 4. — Middle Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, the Crake Valley,
and C'l niston I^ake.
No. 5. — Red Bank and Orasmere Tour, via Ambleside and Skelwith Force.
No. 10.— Round the Langdales and Dungeon Qhyll Tour, via Ambleside,
Colwith Force, Grasmere, and Rydal.
No. 13.— Five Lakes Circular Tour, viz.— Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere,
Thirlmere, and Derwentwater.
No. M. — Wastwater Tour, ria Seascale, and Gosfortli. Clnireliyard Cro.ss, a. p. t5S0.
No. 15.— Six Lakes Circular Tour, viz.— Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere,
Thirlmere, Derwentwater, and Ullswater.
No. 16. — Duddon Valley Tour, ^na Broughton-in-Furness, Ulplia, and Seathwaite.
No. 20.— George Romney's Early Home (1742 to 1755), Walney Bridge and
Island, and Furness Abbey Tour, via Sowerby Wood (N'ew Tour).
For further paiticular.s see the Company's Illiistrated Tours Procramme, to be had
l^alis at all Furness Railway Stations ; from Mr. A. A. Haynes, Superintendent of
the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; and at Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son's Offices ; also at the
principal Bookstalls.
In connection with the Company's Paddle
Steamers ' Lahy Evelyn' i^ 'Lady Movra."
Every Week-day from Whitsuntide to September 30tb.
THE OUTER CIRCULAR TOUR
(This Combination provi<les an ideal buy's Pic-nic Tour), by f^ea, Rail, Lake, and Conch.
embracing Furness Abbey, Windermere Lake and Coniston.
ALFRED ASLETT,
Barro\v-in-Furne8S. April 1911. Stcrttary and General Manager.
BLACKPOOL Ti
LAKES
RAILWAYS.
69
GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY.
BEST ROUTE TO
Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, North and South Devon, Cornwall, Birmingham,
Midland Counties, North and South Wales, Ireland, etc.
EXPRESS TRAINS between
LONDON (Paddington Station)
AND
1 HOURS.
AND
HOURS.
AND
HOURS.
A>D
HOURS.
Bristol . .
Weymonth
Exeter . .
Torquay
inj 2
., ! H
t, 1 :i
31
Plymouth . in
Penzance . ,,
Oxford . . .,
Worcester. ,,
4hs.7ms.
6i
H
■4
Leamington . in
Birmingham . ,,
Wolv'hampt'n ,,
Shrewsbury . ,,
u
21
Chester , In
Birkenhead, „
Cardiff, . „
Swansea . „
4
2
4
Corridor Carriages with reserved Compartments for Ladies, fcmoking Saloons and Lavatory Compart •
iieiits of eaeh olae^, are run un the Express Trains.
ROAD and RAIL MOTOR CAR SERVICES
in many parts of the country.
DIRECT ROUTE to DOVER and the CONTINBNT via READING.
Express Services between Liverpi«)l, Birkenhead, Chester, Birmiughaui, Leamingti>n, Malvern. Wor-
cester, Oxford. Plymouth, Exeter. Bristol, Cardiff, Hereford, Cheltenham, Gloucester, etc., and Uover,
Hastings. C'anterhury, Ramegate, Margate. Folkestone, Paris. ISnissels, Cologne, Bale, etc.
Through Carriages between Birkenhead and Dover, avoiding London.
CHANNEL ISLANDS, VIA WEYMOUTH OR SOUTHAMPTON.
The Steamboat Service TietweemWeymouth and the Channel Islands and .Southamiiton and the Channel
Islands is carried on jointly by the (ireat Western and London and South-Western Railway Companies
For fiUl particulars see Time-book.
BRITTANY, ViaT PLYMOUTH and BREST.
A Weekly .Steamship Service is in operation between Plymouth and Brest. For full particulars see
NANTES, via IVEYMOUTH.
A Weekly Steamship Service is in operation between Weymouth (or Plymouth when specially uotifiedl and
Nantes. For full particulars see Time-book.
IRELAND, via FISHGUARD.
Day and Night Services by shortest Sea Passage (2| hours). New Turbine Steamers.
Express services in connection to and from Waterford, Cork, Killarney, and thej principal places in the
south and west of Ireland.
NEIY CONTINENTAL SERVICE via FLUSHING.
Day Service via QUEENBORO'. Night Service via FOLKESTONE.
Through Express Trains in each direction between Wolverhampton, Birmingham, Leamington, and
Queenboro' or Folkestone via London, Victoria, S.E., and C. and G.W. station.
Through Express Trains by the Shortest and Best Route between WEST OF ENGLAND
ivia Severn Tunneli, Swansea. Cardiff, Newport, and other Stations in South
Wales, and Liverpool, Manchester, Lancashire and Yorkshire Districts. ^
And all the Princiijal Towns in the North of England and Scotland.
EXCURSION, TOURIST AND OTHER PLEASURE TRAFFIC.
!s of Tourist arrangements.
to Fares, Routes, Convey-
Fuwey, Newquay. Truro.
Pleasure Party Tickets at
■ the
veya
of
During the Season the Great Western Company supply gratuitously progranm
and Passengers are thereby enabled to .secure valuable and reliable information a
auces, etc. Winter Tourist Tickets are issued to Bath, Torquay, Paignton
Falmouth, Helston, St. Ives, Penzance, Tenby and certain other Health Resorts.
Reduced Rates are issued during the Summer ixionths, and special arrangenjents
Football Parties. Cricketers, etc. Excursion Trains are run during the Season between the Principal
Stations on Greut Western Railway.
Passengers' Luggage Collected and Delivered in Advance at Is. per Package.
BREAKFAST, LUNCHEON, AND DINING CARS for let and 3id Class Passengers.
LUNCHEON BASKETS, can be obtained at the Principal Stations. Hot or Cold Luncheons, with
bottle of beer as. ; without beer 2s. 6d.
TEA BASKETS, eontaining Pot of Tea or CofTee, Bread and Butter, and Cake or Bun, for one
person, Is. ; Tea Basket for two persons. Is. 6d.
Hotels under the Management of the Great Western Railway Company.
Great Western Royal Hotel, Paddington Station; Tregenna Castle Hotel, St. Ivi
Fishguard Bay Hotel, Goodwick, Pembrokeshire.
RAII;WAYS
1 A^fipni
3 Aldwych
3 Ainambra
4 Apollo
5 Coliseum
6 Comedy
7 Ceocnt Cara..T,
8 Criterion
9 Daly's
10 Drury lar.C
1 I Duke of York's
12 Empire
13 Cniety
II Csrrick
\ i Clobe
16 Haymarkel
17 Palladium
Id HippoiJrome
19 Kit Majesty's
70 Hclborn f/Mplr»
71 kinfisway
77 tycoum
J3 tyrlc
7* Miildletoi Music Nail
33 NCw
70 New ftoyalty
t7 Oifsrd Music Hall
]S Palac*
29 r-avilion
30 Playhouse
31 Prince of Wales
33 Queen's
33 Savoy
34 Shaftesbury
35 Terry's
JS Tivoli
3T Vaudeville
M The Whitmey
39 Wynd)iam's
71
CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS.
7\
Delightful Tours in
GLORIOUS
WALES.
BATHING GOLFING
BOATING FISHING
COACHING
(SEA, EIVER, AND LAKE).
<^^^
.^
<%^'
.^'
,.^^
Spring, Summer, and
Winter Resorts. . ,'
Holiday Contract Tickets
available
for 7 or 14 Days,
between all Coast Stations.
lareekly Tickets.
1st 01.
2nd 01.
3rd 01.
21/6
13/6
10/6
ABERYSTWYTH
SARMOUTH
ABERDOYEY
DOLGELLEY
FAIRBOURNE
(For FRIOG)
TOWYN
CRlCCiETH
PORTMADOC
(ForBORTH-Y-GEST)
PWLLHELI
Fortnightly Tickets less than
double the above.
Reduced Rate for bicycles to holders
of these tickets.
AND THE
SPAS OF MID-WALES.
CHEAP DAY RETURN TICKETS at very Low-
Fares between all Cambrian Coast Stations.
SPORTING COAST GOLF
COURSES.
HARLECH, Royal St. David's
Golf Club (18 holes).
ABERDOVEY (18 holes).
CRICOIETH (18 holes).
TOWYN (18 holes).
BORTH&YNYSLAS(18hole8).
PWLLHELI as holes).
NEVIN (9 holes).
PORTMADOC and
BORTH-Y-GEST (9 holes).
DYFFRYN (18 holes).
FAIRBOURNE (9 holes).
* OSWESTRY (9 holes)
(on Llanymynech Hill).
Inland Course.
About 30 Rail and Coach Tours, in-
eluding some of the finest in Great
Britain, affording scenery unsur-
passed.
Guides, Time Books, and all information
can be obtained at the undermentioned
District Offices of the Company :—
London : Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, and
all thoir Agencies.
Dorland Agency. 3 Regent Street. S.SV.
Liverpool : Cambrian Railways, 16 Lord Street.
Manohbstkb: Cambrian Railways. 45 Piccadilly.
Mr. L. K. Stanton, 12b Cross Street.
BiKMiNOHAU: Cambrian Railways, 137 Corpora-
tion Street.
Cakdiff: Cambrian Railways, ?,1 High Street.
Oi.DHAM : Mr. L. R. Stanton. 112 Union Street.
Bradford ; Messrs. Dean i Dawson, 83 Market St.
SHEFnsLD : Messrs. Dean t Dawson, 4i Fargate.
or from :— CHAS. L. CONACHER,
,„,, Traffic Manager.
OsWHfiTKY, 1911.
FAST TRAINS WITH THEOUGH CAKEIAOES FROM ALL P.4KTI TO THE CAMBRIAM COAST.
RAILWAYS.
MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF IRELAND.
CONNEMARA
and ACHILL
FOR
HEALTH and PLEASURE.
CIRCULAR TOURIST FARES
from
PRINCIPAL STATIONS
in
ENGLAND, WALES,
SCOTLAND
and
IRELAND.
HOTELS UNDER
MANAGEMENT OF
RAILWAY COMPANY
at
RECESS (Gonnemara)
and
MALLARANNY-BY-SEA
(near Achiil Island).
Cheap Third-Class Excursion Tickets are issued during tlie
Season t'roin tlie Princi])al Towns in England, also from Glasgow,
to Galway, Clifden, Achiil, Sligo, etc.
Cheap Week-End Tickets are issued each Saturday from
Dul)lin (Broadstone) to Galway, Maani Cross, Ballynahiuch,
Clifden, Sligo, Westport, Mallaranny and Achiil.
These tickets are available for return iq') to tlie Tuesday
following date of issue.
DURING THE TOURIST SEASON
(.June, July, August, and Sei'tember)
A New Tourist Motor Coach Service
will be run betw^een
CLIFDEN and WESTPORT
(55 Miles in each Direction)
THROUGH THE MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN
AND LAKE SCENERY OF CONNEMARA.
Programme of Tours free on application to any of Messrs.
Cook and Son's Offices ; Irish Tourist Office, 65 Haymarket,
London ; Mr. .J. Hoe}^ 50 Castle Street, Liverpool ; or to
Superintendent of Line, M.G.W. Ry., Broadstone, Dublin.
.lOSEPH TATLOW, Manager.
RA1L^VAYS STEAM BUS. 73
THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY.
THE HIGHLAND LINE, via PERTH and DUNKELD,
IS THE DIRECT AND QUICKEST to
INVERNESS AND THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND.
ABC Illustrated Guide sent to any address on application to the Traffic
Manager, Highland Railway, Inverness.
Hotels uuder the Coiuijaiiy"s= Mauagement : — Station Hotel, Inverness ;
Station Hotel, Dornoch ; Highland Hotel, Strathpefifer ; Station Hotel,
Kyle of Lochalsh.
Inverness 1911. ROBERT PARK, General Afauager.
"For Children of all ages up to and over ninety."
THE BOOK OF THE RAILWAY,
By G. E. MITTON.
Containing 12 full-page Illustrations in Colour by Allan Stewart.
Price 6s. SOME PRESS OPINIONS. Price 6s.
" Will be prized by many young owners." — The Times.
"An intensely interesting book." — Great Western Railway Magazine.
"At once wholesome, entertaining, and instructive." — Travel and Ex.do'ration.
OBTAINABLE THRODaH ANY BOOKSELLER.
Published by ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4 Soho Square, London, W.
LEITH AMU LONDON.
THE LONDON & EDINBURGH
SHIPPING COMPANY'S First-Ckss
Steamers, ROYAL SCOT (New) (HZ),
FIONA (^«o!,\), FINGAL Qlf:) (aU lighted
by Electricity), leave VICTORIA WHARF, LEITH, every Wednesday,
Fkiday, and Saturday, and HERMITAGE STEAM WHARF,
WAPPING, E., every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Satukday.
Fares.— First Cabin, including Steward's Fee, 22s. ; Second Cabin, 16s. ; Deck
(Soldiers and Sailors only), lOs. Return TicketE, available for 6 months (including
Steward's Fee both ways)— First Cabin, 34s. ; Second Cabin, 248. 6d.
Reduced Passenger Fares— October to May inclusive.
cheap CIRCULAB TOTTRS round the Land's End in connection with Clyde Shipping Company's
Steamers — Fare, Firbt Cabin, 47rt. 6d. By Bristol Channel, in connection with Messrs. Sloan & Co.'s
Steamers — Fare, lat Cabin, 35s. {Railway Fares extra.) Round the North of Scotland in connection
with Messrs. Langlands & Sons' Steamers to Li7eri>ool — Fare, First Cabin, London to Liverpool. 608. By
British and Irish Steam Packet Comj)any's Steamer to t)ublin, thence via Silloth to Edinburgh,
returning by this Company's Steamer to London — Fares for the Round, Saloon and First Class Kail,
52s. ; Saloon and Third Class Rail, 478. By North of Scotland Steamers to Orkney and Shetland-
Return Fares to Kirkwall and Stromness, First Class. 60e. ; Second CUss. 33s. To Lerwick and Scallo-
way, First Class, STs. 6d. ; Second Class. 35s. Round Britain by Clyde Shippinii Company's Steamers,
London to Belfast, and Antrim Iron Company's Ste;Lmers, Belfast to Leith— Fare, First Cabin, 75s.
throughout.
Apply in London to Lohdon & EonrBirEOH SnipprNO Co.. Ltd., Hennitage Steam Wharf, Wapplng ;
M'DocoAiL 4 BoKTHKOK, LTD., 72 Mark Lane, K.C. Edinburgh— Cow ak & Co., 14 North Bridge. Glaagow
— Cow AS & Co., 2S 8t "Vincent Place. Greenock— D. Macdouoaj.l, Ltd., 1 Cross Shore Street; and to
LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING CO., LTD.,
y & 9 CoMKKRCiAJ. Street, Lkitw.
74 STEAMERS.
ABERDEEN AND LONDON.
THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIBATiON C0.'8 STEAMSHIPS
" ABERDONIAN," "HOGARTH" and "OITY OF LONDON"
will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting) —
Prom ABERDEEN, 87 Waterloo Quay, every Wednesday and baturday or Sunday.
Prom LONDON, Aberdeen Wharf, Limehouae, every Weduesday and Saturday.
The Steamers are fitted up in First-Class style — Ladies' Saloon, and Smoking Boom
on Deck — Electric Light throughout — Time on Passage about 36 hours.
The Company's steam tender ' Ich Dien ' attends the Steamers on their arrival in London
for the purpose of conveying Passengers to tha Temple Pier, Thames Embankment ;
she also leaves that Pier with Passengers for the Steamers one hour before the adver-
tised time of sailing from Limehouse.
Fares — Private Cabins (subject to accommodation being available) for 2 passengers, &i.
Private Cabins (subject to accommodation being available) for 1 passenger, £3.
Return Tickets for Private Cabins granted at fare and half.
Hi/ngle TichiU — 1st Cabin, 30s. ; 2nd Cabin, 15s. ; Children under 14 years, ISs. and lOs
Return Tickets — available for six months — 458. and 25s. ; Children, 258. and 158.
A Stewardess carried In both First and Second Cabins.
Holiday Tours — London to Aberdeen and Deeaide Highlands, including Ballater, Balmoral, and Brae-
inar. Return fares— Ist Class, £2: 198., 2ud Class, £1 : 14b. To Aberdeen and Valleys of the Dee. Don.
and Spey— 1st Class, £3 : 3s. ; 2nd Class, £l:17s. To Orkney and Shetland Islands. Eetum fares—
To Lerwick or Scalloway, Ist Cl.iss, £3:7:0; 2nd Class, 35s. To Kirkwall or Stronmess, Ist Clase, 80a.
2nd Class, 83s.
For bei-ths and further information apply in London to Georqe Mutch, Agent, Aberdeen Steum
Navigation Co.'s Wharf, Limehouse, E. ; Pitt Si Scott, Ltd., 25 Cannon Street, E.G. ; Geo. W. Wheatley
& Co., 194 Piccadilly, W. In Aberdeen to Edward .T. Savaoe, Manager, 87 Waterloo Quay.
CLYDE SHIPPING COMPANY, LIMITED.
SPLEMDID COASTIKG TOURS ROUHD THE BRITISH COAST.
Greenock, Belfast, and IfiTaterford, calling at Southampton
and Plymouth. For full iyiformation apply —
CLYDE SHIPPING COMPANY, LIMITED. 138 Leadenhau STREET, LONDON, E.C.
Telegraphic Address : " CUMBRAE," London.
LONDON, WrBOROUGH AND MIDDLESBROUGH
'pHE Passenger Steamer " Clauilia " (littod throughout with electric light, with
-*- handsome saloon accommodation, piano, smoke-room, and everj' convenience for
passengers) leaves Free Trade Wliarf, Ratclifl", London, E., every SJaturday evening for
Scarborough and Middlesbrough. Returning from the Company's Wharf, Middles-
brough, to Scarborough and London every Wednesday.
Fares— Saloon, 12s. ; Return, 18s. ; Pore Cabin, 88. ; Return, 128. Returns available
for 3 months.
The R.s. "Buccaneer," carrying a limited number of Saloon passengers, leaves
London every Tuesday for Middlesbrough, and Middlesbrough every Saturday for
London (weather, etc., permitting).
For full particulars apply — London, Free Trade Wharf Co., Ltd.; Scarborough,
Jno. Stephenson ; or to the Owners, The Tyne-Tees Steam Shipping Company, Limited,
North Street, Middlesbrough. CHRISTOPHER PORSTER, local Secretary
STEAMERS.
15
LOCH-LOMOND,
"QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES."
The Dumbarton and Balloch Joint Line Committee's First-
Class Saloon Steamers sail from Balloch Pier, calling fre-
quently at all Loch-Lomond Piers, also in connection with
Loch-Lomond and Loch-Long Tours, Trossaehs and Aber-
foyle Tours, Trossaehs and Callander Tours, &c. &c.
The most direct and picturesque route to Oban and Fort-
William, via Loch-Lomond, Ardlui, and Crianlarich.
For Train and Steamboat hours see North British and
Caledonian Railway Time Tables : apply to both Companies'
Stationmasters, or to L. H. Gilchrist, Manager, 48
Dundas Street, Glasgow.
Suininer Tours in Scotland.
THE ROYAL. ROUTE.
DAYI
Co/umba in V^V^^^ °
ACBRAYNE,
Hotel Coupons
at reasonable
rates issued at
the various
Offices of the
Company and
on board their
Steamers.
Illustrated
Guide Book, 6d.
Cloth Gilt, is. ;
from the
Owners,
119 Hope Street, Glasgow.
76 STEAMKKa.
LIVERPOOL TO LONDON
BY SEA, AND VICE VERSA,
Calling at FALMOUTH, PLYMOUTH, and COWES, I.O.W.
A REGULAR Service of First- Class Steamers every Wednesday and
■^ Saturday. Special inclusive Single and Return Fares. Terms on
application. Average passage between Liverpool and London, 3^ days.
For particulars apply to —
F. H. Powell & Co., 22 Water \ John Allen & Co., 150 Leaden- ^
Street, I , • .„,.„-„i hall Street, LT.n.„i/«r,
Samuel Hough, Ltd., Colonial (^'^®'T'°°'- J. D. Hewett & Co., loi f^'''*'"'-
House, Water Street, J Leadenhall Street. J
LEITH to ABERDEEN, BUCKIE, LOSSIEMOUTH (for Elgin), BURGHEAD (for
Forres), CROMARTY, INVERGORDON (for Strathpeffer), and INVERNESS.
The First-Claas Steamer JAMES CROMBIE loaves Leith everj' Monday , and
Aberdeen every Tuesday, for Buckie, Lossiemouth, Cromarty, Invergordon, and
Inverness : leaves Inverness every Thursday for Cromarty, Invergordon, Aberdeen,
and Leith. S.S. EARNHOLM leaves Leith ever>' Thursday (and every Tuesday to
Aberdeen only), and Aberdeen every Friday for Biirghead, Cromarty, Invergordon,
and Inverness : leaves Inverness every Monday for Cromarty, Invergordon, Aber-
deen, and Leith. S.S. SILVER CITY leaves Leith for Aberdeen every Saturday.
S.S. EARNHOLM or S.S. JAMES CROMBIE leaves Aberdeen for Leith every
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday. FARES MODERATE.
For further particulars apply to the Managers of the Aberdeen, Leith, and Moray
Firth Steam Shipping Co., Limited, JAMES CROMBIE & SONS, Trinity Buildings,
Aberdeen, or to M. LANGLANDS & SONS, 80 Constitution Stree^.Jjejth.
GLASGaW^& THE WEST HIGHLANDS.
WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOURS BY THE
Splendidly fitted Steamer, (( TJ' 17 T3 D T 1~\ 17 O " Superior AccommoAatlon.
Lighted by Electricity. nCOXV.iJ-'CO Bathroom, etc.
From GLASGOW at 2 p.m. TTATTi'TJV" MnATPi A V From GREENOCK at 6.15 p.m
Berth 44, North Side. X!iVJLlVl IVIWI^ UA I Cnstomhoiue Qnay.
For ISLAY, COLONSAY, OBAN. MDLL. COLL, TIREE, RHUM, WEST OF SKYE,
BENBECULA, NORTH AND SOUTH DIST, BARRA, etc., alTords the Tourist a
splendid opportunity of viewing the magnificent scenery of the WEST OF SKYE
and the OUTER ISLANDS.
Cabin for the Round, from 35s. ; Board Included, from 65s.
ISLAND OF ST. KILDA. — During the Season extended trips are made to this most
interesting and romantic Island, when passengers are given facilities (W.P.) for landing.
Cabin on St. Kilda and Loch Roag Trips, from 50s. ; Board included, from 84s.
Telegraph Address : Tim-e I'.iUs. Maps nf Route, Cabin I'lans, and Berths secured at
• McCaUum— Glasgow." JOHN M'CALLUM & CO., 87 Union Street, Glasgow. •
GLASGOW^AND THE"HIGHLANDS.
WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOUR.
THE Favourite Steamer DUNARA CASTLE sails from Glasgow every Thursday at 2
P.M., and from Greenock. West Quay, at 7 p.m., for COLONSAY, lOXA, BUNBSSAN.
TIREE, BARRA, UIST, SKYE, and HARRIS, returning to Glasgow on Wednesdays.
Affords to Tourists the opportunity of about a week's comfortable Sea Voyage, and
at the same time a Panoramic View of the magnificent scenery of the Western Isles.
CABIN FARE, £1 :15s., INCLUDING MKALS, £3 : 5s.
Extended Tours to the Island of St. Kilda on 11th May. 15th June, 13th July, and
17th August. Return Cabin Fare. Including Meals, £4 : 4s.
Berths may be booked at tlie London Offices of the Carron Company, 87 Lower
Fast Sniithfield, EC, and 7S Great Tower Street, E.G.
Time Bills (with Maps) and Bertlis secured on application to
^lAUTlN ORME & CO., 20 Robertoon Street, Glasgow.
8TEAME118. 77
Observe, about One Hour at Inveraray.
GLASGOW & INVERARAY
Via Greenock (Piincps Pier), Gourock, Dunoon, Rothesay,
and Kyles of Bute.
AND THE
Famed Loch Eck Tour and the Hell's Glen and Lochgoll Tour.
'Dip SpleniliU .Saloon Steamer, Lord of the Isles, sails from Glasgow at 7.15 a.m. and
I'rinct'.s I'ier at 9.5 a.m. ; Gourock 9.15 a.m. Trains from Glasgow (St. Enoch), 7.65
A.M., 8.20 A.M. in May, 8.20 a.m. July and August, Central 8.30 a.m., Queen Street (join
at Dunoon), 8.5 A.M. Returning 2.10 p.m. Daily. Full particulars of Sailings, Tours,
1 ., from M. IHTtaite, 8 & 9 Bridge IHTharf, Glasgow.
SCOTLAND AND IRELAND.
ROYAL MAIL LINE.
Quickest, Cheapest, and Best Route between all fjarts of Scotland and Ireland.
Mail Service twice every evening (Sundays excepted) to and from Belfast; via
Glasgow and Greenock, and via Ardrossan.
EXPRESS DAYLIGHT SERVICE DURING SUMMER SEASON.
Glasgow to Belfast and back same day, by the Swift and Luxurious Turbine R.M.S.
" Viper " from Ardrossan. Passage 3| hours. Also Steamers between —
Glasgow and Dublin, four times weekly.
Glasgow and Londonderry (calling at Greenock). Twice weekly.
Glasgow and Manchester, three times weekly.
Glasgow and Liverpool (calling at Greenock). Three sailing.s weekly each way.
See Newspaper advertisements.
SPECIAIi NOTICES.
Inauguration of New Services, commencing 2nd June, between —
Dublin, Belfast, and Oban. Belfast and Rothesay, and
Dublin, Belfast, and Campbeltown. Ardrossan and Rothesay.
Full particulars obtained in current Time Tables.
GliASGOlHT EXHIBITION, 1911.
See current Time Table for particulars of excursion bookings from Dublin, Belfast,
and Londonden-y to the Exhibition.
For full details see Newspaper Advertisements and Sailing Bills, or apply to
G. & J. BURNS, Ltd.
Glasgow, Belfast, 'Derry, Dublin, Manchester, and Liverpool.
BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN.
Three of the volumes in Messr.s. A. & C. Black's new colour series, bearing the above title, and issued
.'it a price bringing them within the reach of all are : —
ENGLISH LAKES,
ISLE OF MAN, and
NORTH WALES.
Each valume contains 12 full-page Illustrations in Colour, and the text is in every rase hy an author
who in as well known for the charm of his style as the accuracy of his information.
Large Square Demy 8vo. Boards, with Pictiu'e Cover.
Price Is. 6d. net each (&v Post Is. lOd. each).
Published by ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W.
And obtairuMe of all Booksellers.
78 STEAMERS.
CITY OF DUBLIN STEAM PACKET COMPANY
ROYAL. MAIL SERVICE
BETWEEN
ENGLAND & IRELAND
via HOLYHEAD & KINGSTOWN
FASTEST AND BEST PASSENGER ROUTE
Sea Passage — 2 Hours 45 Minutes
TWO SAILINGS DAILY IN EACH DIRECTION
Through Fares from principal Stations. Passengers
can book First, Second, and Third Class Rail and Saloon
on Steamer, or Second and Third Class Rail and Second
Cabin Steamer.
INTERCHANGE OF TICKETS.
England & Ireland via Holyhead, Kingstown and North Wall.
All Ordinary (Single or Return) and Tourist Tickets (including the Outward and
Return Halves) issued between England and Ireland, via Holyhead and Dublin, are
available either by the L. & N. W. Steamers between Holyhead and Kingstown or
North Wall, or by the City of Dublin Company's Mail Steamers between Holyhead
and Kingstown, on payment of the excess difference in fare, where such exists.
LIVERPOOL & DUBLIN
SAILINGS DAILY IN EACH DIRECTION ON
EVERY WEEK-DAY
For Particulars see Time-Table Books.
FARES— DUBLIN and LIVERPOOL.
Saloon Deck
Single . . . 13/6 I Single . .4/
Return . 21/ | Return . . 6/6
Return Tickets are available for Six Months.
EXCURSION TICKETS are issued on every Friday and Saturday.
Fares — SALOON, 15/ I available for return within
DECK, 5/6 ) •<> I^AYS FROM DATE OF ISSUE.
Through Tickets are also issued by this route.
TuU particulars as to Sailings, Excursions. &c , can be had at
15 EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN, and
13 WATER STREET, LIVERPOOL.
STEAMERS. 79 _- ■
British & Irish Steam Packet Co., Ltd. I
GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS ||
BETWEEN M g
LONDON AND DUBLIN ^
AND THE J (2
SOUTH OF ENGLAND. |i»
The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey '^^i
and for the SCILLY ISLANDS, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands and France. ' "S g «
THE COMPANY'S LARGE AND POWERFUL STEAM-SHIPS 5I"
Fitted with electric light, and with superior accommodation for Passengers, leave e *. ^
London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, ^ ° g
Plymouth, and Falmouth. g S. *
FLEET: ||^
Lady Gwendolen (Building), 2000 Tons. '"'^^
Lady Roberts .... 1462 Tons I Lady Martin 1898 Tons la's
Lady Wolskley .... 1424 ,, Lady Olive 1084 ,, a *5
Lady Hudson-Kinahan . 1372 ,, | " Calshot " (Cargo only) . 549 ,, i2g|
SAILING / From London— Sundays and Wednesdays. sS t
DAYS ( From Dublin— Wednesdays and Saturdays. >.*a
Return Tickets are available for three months, and Passengers are aUowed to s J ^
'break the journey at intermediate ports. Provisions supplied on board at moderate ^2g
rates. Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge, on early application •o ^ f'
I being made for same. Passengers from London can embark the evening before sailing J 'J
day without extra charge, but must be on board not later than 10 p.m. Illustrated 2*t
Handbook free by post on application. ^3'2
Circular Tours in connection with the following :— City of Cork Steam Packet .n«5
Company, Limited (including KiUamey and Glenganiff, Ac); Dublin and Silloth g>§.S
(including Edinburgh and Dundee, &c.) ; Loudon, Dublin, and Isle of Man Tour per So-
Joint Services of Messrs. Wm. Sloan & Co.'s 8.S. "Yarrow" and the Steamers of the a S
Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, Ltd., during the Season. Pare for the round from £§7
London, £2 :28. ; Portsmouth and Southampton, £2 ; Plymouth, £1 : 15s. ; Falmouth, p;Ei
£1:12:6; Dublin and Glasgow; and Carron Lines, via Grangemouth, &c., and to 5g^
Oonnemara and West of Ireland, in connection with Midland Great Western Railway S"^
of Ireland, via Clifden, Westport, Letterfrack, and Leenane, from 1st June to 30th § @a
September. Splendid Scenery. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing. Tickets avail- "* ^
able for two months. Circular Tour Tickets must be procured at the Company's 3^5
Offices prior to departure. '^
Scllly Islands. — Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth and travel 5L,_^
via Penzance. Children from 3 to 12 years old, half fare. ^
Special Cheap 16-day Excursion Tickets, 1st and 2nd Cabin, are issued between o
any two of the following ports : — Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth, Falmouth, or Q
Dublin, at a single fare and a quarter. (S *
Through Bookings to the Chamiel Islands and France from Dublin. § O
Pull information as to Sailings, etc., can be obtained from James Hartley A Co., ^
30 Lime Street, FiMichnrch Street, London, B.C., and North Quay, Eastern Basin, p
London Docks, Shadwell, E. (where the vessels lie), or from any of the following S
Agents : R. Clark A: Son, or H. J. Warino & Co., Millbay Pier, Plymouth ; W. & E. C. S *
Carnb, Market Street, Falmouth ; B. & I. S. P. Coy., Ltd., Exchange Buildings, Town g 3
Quay, Southampton ; J. M. Harris, 10 Broad Street, Portsmouth ; Thos. Cook & i^ O
Son, Dublin, London, and Branches ; Carolin & Bgan, 30 Kden Quay, Dublin ; A. D5 ^
W. Hewett, 9 D'Olier Street, Dublin. Chief Offices— 27 Sir John Rogerson's Quay, g °
Dublin. Telegranhic Addresses — "Awe," Dublin ; •'Emerald," Lornion. 2s
A. W. EGAN, Secreiurv- O
9
80 STKAilh.KS.
LONDON AND DUBLIN,
AND THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND.
The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, aud Surrey
and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands and France.
The British and Irish Steam Packet Company's large and powerful Steam-Ships,
fitted with electric light, and with superior passenger accommodation, and carrying
goods, horses, carriages, &c., at moderate rates, leave LONDON and DUBLIN Twice a
WooTi. (unless prevented by unforeseen occurrences), calling both ways at
PORTSMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PLYMOUTH AND FALMOUTH
' SAILING DAYS
From LONDON : Sundays and IHTednesdays.
From DUBLIN : W^ednesdays and Saturdays.
Passengers from London can embark the evening before sailing day without extra
charge, but must be on board not later than 10.0 p.m.
iBt CABIN.
2nd CABIN.
DECK.
LONDON
Single.
Return.
Single.
Betnm.
Single.
Betnm.
s. d.
s. d.
8. d.
s. d.
8. d.
8. d.
To Portsmouth
10 6
16 6
6 6
10 0
4 0
6 0
,, Southampton
11 6
18 0
7 6
U 6
4 6
6 6
„ Plymouth .
15 0
24 0
11 0
17 6
7 0
11 0
„ Falmouth .
20 0
32 0
15 0
24 0
10 0
15 0
„ DubUn . .
26 0
40 0
18 0
28 0
11 0
17 0
Children from 3 to 12 years of age half fare. Return Tickets are available for three
months, and passengers are allowed to break the journey at intermediate ports. Pro-
visions are supplied on board at moderate rates. Private cabins can be reserved on
payment of ejctra charge, on early application being made for same.
London Offices:— .30 I.imo Street, E.G. JAMBS HARTLEY & Co., Agents.
Berth : North Quay, Eastern Basin, London Dock, near the Shadwell Stations, Great
Eastern and Metropolitan Railways. Chief Offices, Dublin : 3 North Wall. Telegraphic
address: "Awe," Dublin. A. W. EGAN, Secretary.
Passengers for South Africa should travel by
THE ABERDEEN DIRECT LINE OF STEAMERS
London to Durban (Natal),
Delagoa Bay, Beira, Chinde, and East Africa.
Moderate Fares. Superior Accommodation. Regular Sailings.
Wireless Telegraphy. Only First and Second Class carried.
Write for Handbook and Sailing List to —
The Owners: John T. Rennie, Son <& Co., 4 East India Avenue, Ijondon, E.G.
(or. West End Agency : 21 Cockspur Street, S.W.)
John T. Rennie & Son, 4S Marisclial Street, Aberdeen, or Agents.
NORWAY, DENMARK, & GERMANY.
THE LEITH HULL AND HAMBURG STEAM PACKET COMPANY, LIMITED.
LEITH to GHRISTIANSAND every
Thursday — £3 : 3s. ; Return, £5 : 5s.
(inf-luding food).
LEITH to GOPENHAGEN every Thurs-
d.ay— £3 : 3s. ; Return, £5 : 5s. (including
food).
LEITH to HAMBURG every Monday,
Wednesday, and Saturday — £2 : 10s. ;
Return, £4 : 4s. (including food).
Threagh Fares to CHEIgTIAMIA, EEBOEN,
BERLIN, STOCKHOLM, Ac.
CIRCULAR TOURS.
An Illustrated HANDBOOK with full
details may be had free.
HOLIDAY TOURS IN NORWAY.
10 Days for 8 Guineas ; 17 days for 10
Guineas — including all expenses
JAMBS CURRIE & CO., Munagers.
16 Bernard Street, LKITH.
STEAMERS. 8l
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION Co., Ltd.
TOURS
With Best Hotels, Full Board, and First-Class Steamer and Rail.
BORDEAUX, 11-12 days' Tour-sejour, £7 : 7:6 . . . LOURDES £8 11 4
ARCACHON, 12 days' Tour, £7: lis.; 19 days, £10: 78.; 26 days 13 3 0
BIARRITZ or PAU, 11-12 days' Tour, £8 : 17 : 10 ; 18-19 days 11 13 10
PYRENEES— GRAND CIRCULAR 19 DAYS' TOUR i. 15 0 10
VERNET (Pyrenees Orientales) and Algerian 33 days' Tour 26 17 6
ALGIERS, 19 days' Tour, £18 : IBs. ; ALGIERS-PYRENEES 19 19 0
TUNIS-TRIPOLI . . 26-day Tour-cruises via Bordeaux and Marseilles 23 10 0
OSTEND 2 days' Tour, £1 :3s. ; 3 days, £1 : lis. ; 10 days' Tour-s^jour 3 17 0
„ BRUGES, BRUSSELS, ARDENNES, CAVERNS OF HAN . 9 days 4 18 2
RHINE . . 1st Class Steamers and 2nd Rail, 9 days, £6:3:8; 10 days, 6118
EDINBURGH . 5 days' Tour, £3 :4s. ; 6 days' Tour, £3 :12 :6 ; 9 days 4 18 0
STRATHARDLE, KILLIECRANKIE, DUNKELD, 9 days' Tour 4 17 8
KYLES of BUTE, ARDRISHAIG, or INVERARAY, 6 days' Tour 4 13 0
,, STAFFA and lONA (including boats and guides) 9 days' Tour 8 6 6
CALEDONIAN CANAL and WESTERN ISLANDS 13 days 13 1 0
HAMBURG, 5 days' Tour, £4:16:9; 6 days, £5:9:9 . BERLIN, 6 days 6 17 6
BERLIN, POTSDAM, conducted Walking Tour, 9 days . 9 11 10
KIEL, KORSOR, COPENHAGEN . . 6 days' Tour 6 17 6
SCANDINAVIAN GOTHA CANAL . Grand 16 days' Tour 15 15 0
EAST AND WEST COAST TOUR -CRUISE .... 7 days 5 1 9
ROUND BRITAIN— 9-DAY CRUISE— 7 Guineas.
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