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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

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1 -^ '. . -c i

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THE LANKATILAKE TEMPLE.

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THE
BOOK OF CEYLON

BEING A GUIDE TO ITS RAILWAY SYSTEM AND

AN ACCOUNT OF ITS VARIED ATTRACTIONS

FOR THE VISITOR AND TOURIST

HENRY W. CAVE

M.A. (OxoN.), F.R.G.S.

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. AUTHOR OF " GOLDEN TIPS,"

** THE RUINED CITIES OF CEYLON," " COLOMBO AND THE

KELANI VALLEY," " KANDY ANp PERADENIYA,"

"NUWARA ELIYA AND ADAM's

PEAK "

ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
BY THE AUTHOR

CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED
London, Paris, New York, Toronto and Melbourne, mcmviii

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[The new YORK' I

416503

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PREFACE

T^HE design of this book is to help the traveller in
Ceylon to a fuller enjoyment of the varied attrac-
tions of the island, and to arouse in the general reader
a desire to visit a country which has only now begun
to receive the attention it deserves. If, as I am glad to
be assured, my previous works on Ceylon have contri-
buted in some measure to this end, I trust the more
popular form of the present work will still further promote
the object which I have in view.

The illustrations are mainly from photographs taken
by me specially for this work; they may be depended
upon, therefore, as representing the aspect of the country
to-day. Some photographs of places and things that
have not changed during the last few years have been
introduced from my previous books. For some excellent
illustrations in the first section I am indebted to my
brother, Mr. A. E. Cave; for those on page 12 my th^njcs
are due to Mr. Owen W. Henman; for N03. 298 and ;^9^)
to Mr. M. Kelway Bamber, F.I.C., F.C.S., M.R.A.C.^
and for those on pages 109 and 230 to Messrs. VM^t^.f^i Co.

To Mr. G. P. Greene, the general manager o^* the
Ceylon Government Railway, I owe a debt of gratitude
for information and assistance in many directions; to my
nephew, Mr. W. A. Cave, I am indebted for the informa-
tion given about the birds of Colombo; and to the
Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis, M.A., Government Agent of the
Central Province of Ceylon, my warmest thanks are due

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* 1

/
e t

xii PREFACE

for his interesting contribution on Kandyan architecture;
for facilities which enabled me to observe the native
manners and customs of the province over which he pre-
sides, and for many other kindnesses. And finally it gives
me great pleasure to express my indebtedness to my friend,
Mr. F. W. Langston, M.A., of Merton College, Oxford,
who kindly undertook the reading of the whole work, and
whose many valuable suggestions I gratefully adopted.

HENRY W. CAVE.

44, Sussex Square, Brighton.
January^ 1908.

• • • • • • •• • •• • • J

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n'' .- V - ■ • ^

/, CONTENTS

PART I

PAGES

Introductory. Geographical Features. Climate. History i — 25

The British Administration. Attraciions of Ceylon. The
Voyage. First Glimpse of Ceylon. The Harbour of

Colombo 26 — 37

Colombo. The Fort. How to See Colombo .... 38 — 90

The Ceylon Government Railways 91—108

The Coast Line Itinerary 109 — 177

The Kelani Valley 178 — 184

The Kelani Valley Itinerary 185 — 199

PART II

The Main Line Itinerary — Colombo to Peradeniya Junction 200 — 249

Pbradeniya Gardens 249—281

Kandy 281—323

Kandyan Architecture 324—377

Localities of Kandyan Temples 378—382

Paddy Cultivation 382 — 397

Administration of Rural Districts 397 — 401

Education in Rural Districts 402 — 405

Galagedara and Hataraliyadda 405 — 406

Teldbniya. Medamahanuwara, Urugala, and Madugoda . 406—426

The MAtal6 Line Itinerary 426 — 433

Dambulla and Sigiri 434—443

Gampola to Hatton 444 — 452

Adam's Peak 452—461

Tea Planting 465—481

Dimbulla to Badulla 481—493

Nanuoya to Nuwara Eliya ...... 493—511

Udapussellawa 512 — 514

PART III

Northern Line Itinerary — Polgahawela to AnurXdhXpurA 515 — 522

AnurXdhXpurX, Minneria, and Polonnaruwa .... 522 — 596

AnurXdhXpurX to Jaffna 597 — 617

Trincomali .... 618—637

Rameseram 638 — 640

The Pearl Fishery 641—649

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MAPS AND PLANS

Map of Colombo

Map of Ceylon Showing thb Provinces .
Plan of the Harbour of Colombo
Map of the Fort of Colombo .

. facing page i
27

Railway Map of Ceylon Giving Distances of Stations
AND their Elevation above Sea Level

Plan of the Royal Botanic Gardens. Peradbniya

Map of the Town of Kandy

Map of AnurAdhXpurX

Plan of the Harbour of Trincomali ....

109
252
296

523
619

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titrodu«.'or\

catutes

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-Ill trod u I.* or \

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON.

PART I.

COLOMBO,

The South -West Coast, and the Kelani Valley.

IT would be superfluous to-day to describe geographically the introdu.«
* position of Ceylon on the map of the world. Thanks to
the greater facilities of travel in recent years, our acquaintance
with the most distant outposts of the empire is now more
intimate than could have been conceived two decades ago,
and Ceylon, which at a period not very remote was little more
than a vague image of poetry or romance, has become an
important reality to the merchant, the traveller and the student
of ancient civilisation and religion.

To those who have the most extensive experience «.; - l ^V"
and west, the claim of Ceylon to be regarded as the very t;< i.^ "' "
of the earth will not seem extravagant, and the object of tht'
present work will be to afford some evidence in support of •
this claim. But not on aesthetic grounds alone does Ceylon
deserve notice. The economic results due to its situation in
the eastern seas, a spot on which converge the steamships of
all nations for coal and the exchange of freight and passengers ;
its wealth and diversity of agricultural and mineral products ;
the industry of its inhabitants both colonists and natives — these,
together with its scenery and the glamour of its unrivalled
remains of antiquity, entitle Ceylon to a place of high distinction
among the dependencies of the empire.

In outline Ceylon resembles a pear suspended from the cconrurhh
south of India by its stalk./ Its extreme length from north fetuwts
to south is 271 miles; its j^^reatest width 137 miles, and its
area 25,000 square miles. r'A grand upheaval, culminating in
a height of 8,200 feet, occupies the south central part of the
island to the extent of 5,0©^ square miles; the whole of this
surface is broken and rugged, exhibiting a vast assemblage

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2 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Qeographicai of picturesque mountains of varied elevation. Let us in
features imagination ascend to the highest point, the lofty mountain

of Pidurutallagalla, 8,300 feet above the sea, and with the
whole island at our feet survey its geographical features.
Looking south, the immediate prospect presents Nuwara Eliya,
an extensive plateau encircled by hills and possessing two
lakes, a racecourse, two golf links, various clubs with their
recreation grounds, a well-q^tocked trout stream, a lovely public
garden, several good hotels, fine residences dotting the hill-
sides, many of which are available to visitors, and for most
of the year a charming climate, bright and cool as an ideal
English spring ; and moreover possessing the important adjunct
of a mountain railway which conveys the enervated resident
• from the heated plains to this elysium in a few hours.
The South Still looking south we notice a gap in the surrounding

hills through which a good carriage road passes and rapidly
descends, a beautiful wooded ravine embellished by a cascaded
stream sacred to the goddess Sita, until at the fifth mile a
small ledge is reached o'erhung by the precipitous rock Hak-
galla. Here is one of the botanical gardens for which Ceylon
is famous throughout the world; a favourite spot for picnics,
where beneath the shade of giant tree ferns and ornamental
foliage that transcends description are the rolling downs of
Uva. Upon these patnas, as they are locally called, five
thousand Boer prisoners-of-war were encamped during the
late war, and we still see the buildings erected for their
accommodation ; the ground now being used for local military

^. i^urposes. These Uva patnas form a sort of amphitheatre

" ' ^ amongst the mountains ; the acclivity to the right ascends to
the Horton plains (7,000 feet above the sea), beloved of the
elk hunter and the fisher. Curving to- the left the heights
form a ridge beyond which stretches a magnificent panorama
of undulated lowland aglow in purple heat. Here are large
stretches of park and forest inhabited chiefly by the elephant,
bear, leopard and buffalo. Still looking south but inclining
to the right the line of vision is in the direction of Dondra
Head, the southernmost point of the island. Behind this lies
a fair province where tropical culture of every kind abounds
and flourishes : cinnamon, citronella, cocoanuts, tea and rubber
are the chief agricultural products, while beneath the soil lies
an abundance of plumbago. A 'gleam of light upon the coast
gives us the position of Hambantota ; it has the appearance
of surf glittering in the rays of the tropical sun ; but in
reality it is pure white salt; there has been dry weather on
thit coast, and the water of the shallow lagoons, which arc
separated from the sea only by sandbanks, has in process of
evaporation deposited its salt around the banks and upon the

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2. NUWARA ELIYA.

3. THE ROLLING DOWNS OF UVA.

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D
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<
D

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Oeoip'aphical
features

beds. In this simple way Nature provides enough saH for all
the half million inhabitants of the southern province. The
southern coast is remarkably interesting in its scenery, pro-
ducts, and antiquities, while its inhabitants are, perhaps, the
most purely Sinhalese of the whole population of the island.
The tourist should not leave Ceylon until he has made the
acquaintance of every part of this province to which the
railway can take him.

Upon our pedestal on Pidurutallagalla we now turn to the The West
west, and face Colombo, distant from us but sixty-five miles
as the crow flies. For half the distance mountain ranges,
interlaced in intricate confusion, with peaks and spurs all
forest clad, lie outstretched. On their ledges and spreading over
their steep declivities are the thousand tea estates for which
the island is so justly famous. Dimbula, Lindula, Maskeliya,
Bogawantalawa, and Dolosbage lie here at varying elevations.
They terminate where the Kelani V'alley begins its descent to
the lowlands and extends its cultivation to the western shore.

We now make a complete turn about and survey the eastern The East
part of the country. Here we notice the mountain railway
ascending from Nuwara Eliya to Kandapola (6,323 feet)
whence it descends into the heart of the Udapusscllawa tea
district. The lovely town of Badulla lies twenty miles away
surrounded by lofty and striking mountains. Farther distant
at Lunugala the scenery is still more remarkable. Here the
eastw^ard borders of the great central highlands are reached,
and at their base a mass of forest clad foot-hills extend north-
ward through what is known as the Bintenne country, the
home of the wild man who still exists in Ceylon, a miserable
remnant of an aboriginal race. On the eastern coast there
is a long strip of alluvial plain extending * north and south
for upwards of 150 miles and from ten to thirty miles inland.
For the most part the land is uncultivated park, forest and
jungle. It is the retreat of wild animals and birds of gorgeous
plumage. Innumerable rivers flow through it to the sea ; these
have apparently varied their course from time to time under
the influence of tropical torrents and have fhus formed count-
less still lakes and canals, the banks of which are covered with
mangroves of enormous size. The east coast is centred by
the town of Batticaloa, famous for its plantations of cocoanuts,
extending north and south for fifty miles.

Northwards the rugged and beautiful Maturatta is nearest The North
our view, and to the left of it the better known Ramboda pass
leading through Pussellawa into the Kandyan country, where
lovely scenery, quaint customs, interesting temples and strange
ceremonials conspire to provide a veritable paradise for the
tourist, who hiere enjoys easy means of communication and a

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6 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Qeofrraphicai pleasant temperature. Europe knows nothing of the scenes
feattres qj. ^j^g jjf^ ^y^^^ greet US here. There is nothing sombre

The N.^rth ^^ monotonous in the Kandyan country. Endless variety

characterises the landscape and vivid contrast the foliage.
Precipitous heights and narrow passes for centuries denied
the white man possession of this ancient and beautiful king-
dom, where railways, marvels of engineering, now encircle the
heights and a network of excellent roads affords easy access
to every feature of interest. In the haze as we look farther
*rth the mountains fall away in long spurs that radiate in
jus directions, the farthest stretching towards the lake of
Mianeriya, one of the greatest irrigation works of the ancients.
Dett^ched hills are few and insignificant with the exception of
Mihir.tale (i,ooo feet), an object of great interest in the history
of *" 'dhism ; and the famous solitary rock of Sigiriya, the
fort. retreat of King Kasyapa in the fifth century. To the
left lie. e .. irth western province w'ith its capital town of
Kurunegala, once the seat of kings. This is a lowland province
reaching from the northern Kandyan borders to the western
shore, chiefly devoted to cultivation of the cocoanut palm, of
which there are thirty thousand acres. Interspersed with these
plantations are vast stretches of paddy fields in the low lying
swamps. A characteristic feature of the coast is its great salt
lagoons, where this precious article of diet is obtained in even
larger quantity than at Hambantota. Still farther north and
stretching across the island almost from shore to shore is an
almost uncultivated and comparatively uninhabited province,
yet possessing antiquarian interest second to none in the
world; for here lie the remains of ancient cities which at the
zenith of their greatness extended over greater areas than
London to-day, and contained buildings of greater size than
any of which Europe can boast. The cities are surrounded
by the ruins of an irrigation system still more wonderful.
Into the heart of this district the* tourist can. now journey in
all the luxury of a broad-gauge railway. The buildings still
towering hundreds of feet above the soil are open to his
inspection, and their history, carefully compiled from authentic
records, will be found later in this work. After this archaeo-
logical feast, a pleasant excursion may be made to Trincomale,
one of the most beautiful harbours in the world; or the rail-
way, will convey the traveller to the northernmost part of the
. country, the peninsula of Jaffna, w'hich abounds in interest
.. as being quite different from the rest of Ceylon. It is a change
in soil, climate, products and people. Here that born agri-
culturist the Tamil has brought every acre of ground under
cultivation; the climate being dry, tobacco fields take the
place of oaddy, and the -beautiful palmyra palm is a special

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5. THE RISING MISTS OF EARLY DAWN-

FROM Sr5Tj3,vr.^l«ATALE

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6. THE HARBOUR OF TRINCQMALE.

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7. DRiFTING MISTS.

9. SUNSET, COUOIVJBQ. Digitized by LjOOglC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Climate

characteristic of the landscape. The absence of rivers in the
peninsula is noticeable, the land being fertilised by filtration
from large shallow estuaries.

Not the least of its attractions are the great variety and
choice of climate that Ceylon affords. Fortunately the best
months for visiting the country are those which in Europe are
the most disagreeable. The recent extensions of the railway
system in rendering the ruined cities easily and comfortably
accessible have made Ceylon more than ever a desirable retreat
during winter months; and if it has not yet rivalled Egypt
in popularity the circumstance is due less to its climate and
attractions than its distance. For general salubrity it is
unrivalled in the East. Notwithstanding the variety of tem-
perature to be met with at various . stations and elevations,
the equability of each is remarkable, and stands in great con-
trast to the fickleness of European weather. Classification of
the climate of Ceylon is easy : (i.) moist and hot but tempered Temperature
by cool sea breezes, with a temperature of 75° to 85° F. as
in most of the maritime provinces, including the towns of
Ncgombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Galle and Matara; (ii.) hot,
and dry, as the north-west coast and the peninsula of Jaffna;
(iii.) humid and warm, as in the hilly regions bordering the
great mountain belt, with a shade temperature of 75^ F. by
day and 70° F. by night; and (iv.) temperate, as in the tea
districts of the mountain zone, where the shade temperaturje
averages by day from 70° to 65° F. according to elevation,
aspect and other causes. The annual rainfall is less than Rainjuu
50 inches in Jaffna, the north-west, and the south-east ; from
50 to 75 inches in the north-east; 75 to 100 ioches 4n a belt
of twenty miles width surrounding the mountain zone; and
from 100 to 200 inches in the tea-country. The occurrence of
rain can be anticipated with fair accuracy, and the* seasons
for heavy downpours regularly coincide with the change of the
monsoons. From October to May north-east winds prevail ;
for the rest of the year the south-west monsoon blows con-
tinually. To the influence of these monsoons and the uniform
temperature of the surrounding oceans the equable and tem-
perate character of the Ceylon climate is mainly due. April,
May, October and November are the wettest months. As much
as 53 inches has been registered in Colombo during October '"^'*^'»*
and November. These months are therefore to be avoided by
the tourist. August and September are often delightful months
in Ceylon, and although they do not suit the traveller from
Europe, they are in favour with the European resident of
India, Burmah and the Straits Settlements, who is beginning
to find that a visit to' Ceylon far health and pleasure is the
most profitable within his reach.

Monso9ns

Wettest

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THE BOOK OF. CEYLON

Climate

Flora

Climate. im.
December

January

It is perhaps scarcely necessary to remark that there are no
seasons in Ceylon as we know them in Europe; the difference in
the hot. districts lies between hot and a little hotter, and in more
temperate districts between cool and a little cooler. Tennent,
in a passage that cannot be improved upon, says : ** No period
of the year is divested of its seed-time and its harvest in some
part of the island ; the fruit hangs ripe on the same branches
that are garlanded with opening buds. But as every plant has
its own period for the production of its flowers and fruit, each
month is characterised by its own peculiar flora. As regards
the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety
of tints would be wanting which form the charm of a European
landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of
unchanging green. But, although in Ceylon there is no
revolution of seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant
exhibits colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal
woods of America. It is not the decaying leaves, but the fresh
shoots,* which exhibit these bright colours, the older are still
vividly, green, whilst the young are bursting forth; and the
extremities of the branches present tufts of pale yellow, pink,
crimson, and purple, which give them at a distance the appear-
ance of a cluster of flowers.*'

It may be useful to the intending visitor to indicate the
sort of weather he is likely to meet with at the various centres
of interest in each of the months usually chosen for visiting
Ceylon.

During December Colombo is in many respects pleasanter
than at any other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara-
tively cool, and has an average rainfall of six inches for the
month, which serves well to keep the vegetation at its best,
and the golf links and other recreation grounds in good con-
dition. The rain seldom keeps the visitor prisoner for more
than very few hours, while the longer intervals of fine weather
are delightful. The same conditions apply to the south coast
and to Kandy. In Nuwara Eliya the fine weather and the
wet are about equal. Anuradhapura expects wet days; but
during the fine intervals is more attractive by reason of the
lakes and pokunas being well filled with water. Jaffna is
agreeable, and its well-tilled fields look smiling and pleasant.
. January is on the whole a better month for the visitor.
The winds are dry and cool, and it is necessary in Colombo
to avoid sitting in them when heated from exercise, or sleeping
with windows open to the north. The nights are refreshing,
and early itiornipg exercise pleasant. It is a good month for
visiting the many towijs of interest on the south and south-
west coasts. Kandy is, cool and delightful and admits of sleep
beneath the blanket, while in the mornings and evenings

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9. MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY, COLOMBO.

10. A MASSIVE BREAKER, COL

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11. ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORK& THE GIANT'S TANK.

{Photograph by Owtn W. Henman, Esq.)

12, ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORKS. THE GIANTS TANK.

(Photografh by Orvtrt IK Htnmatt, Esq.)

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON - 13

. vigorous walking can be indulged in with pleasure. Nuwara ciimmte
Eliya has now a mean temperature of 56° F. Fires in the January
evening are comfortable, while the early mornings are often
frosty. The rainfall here averages 6 inches during this month ;
but the fine days are glorious. Anuradhapura has not definitely
arrived at its fine weather period; but is generally pleasant.
It is perhaps sufficient to say that all the photographs in this
book illustrating the ruins of the city were taken during the
month of January. Jafifna is quite at its best and much cooler
than in the later months.

In February Colombo is dry; the nights are cloudless and February
cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days
are bright and sunny ; the early mornings cold ; the evenings
most agreeable and the nights dewy. Nuwara Eliya is abo
in its best mood,. and is probably at this time as regards climate
the pleasantest spot on the earth. February is also a good *
month for visiting Anuradhapura, and quite the best for trips
to Dambulla, Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa. Jaffna is .also fine,
and although it is much warmer than in January it is not yet
too hot to be pleasant.

In March the heat in Colombo increases rapidly, the earth March
receiving more heat than is lost by radiation and evaporation.
The temperature rises to 87° F. during the day and seldom
descends below 80° F. at night. There is consequently
amongst Europeans a general exodus to the hills. Kandy is
rather warmer than in February ; the range of the thermometer
has decreased and the morning air has. lost- its crispness; but
the climate is pleasant and the month is a good one for thfs
tourist. Nuwara Eliya is still delightful as in February, but
with diminishing range of temperature., the nights being less
cold. At the ruined cities the conditions are favourable to
the visitor, the month being quite fine. Jaffna becomes hot;
but not unbearably so, and the tourist should not leave it out
of his itinerary.

Three thousand years ago, when the Sanskrit speaking History
Aryans of the north of India had not as yet emerged from Aryan
obscurity, the whole of Ceylon was peopled by barbarous tribes, f^f^^^^^^^^
a wretched remnant of whom still exist in the wilds of the
Bintenne country. But before the dawn of civilisation fell
upon England, history tells us of the marvellous colonisation
of Ceylon. People of the Aryan race had discovered the
wonderful resources of this beautiful island, had conquered
and colonised it, and by a system of irrigation, which is the
admiration of the greatest engineers of our own time, had
brought the whole country into a high state of culture; more-
over they had built beautiful cities, the remains of which at
this day hold a pre-eminent position amongst the wonders of

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^THE BOOK OF CEYLON

History

The
Portuguese

the world. When we come fully into the domain of authentic
• history, some three centuries before the present era, we find
these people of the Aryan race a great nation of Sinhalese in
a high state of civilisation for the period, and numbering prob-
ably ten millions. Blit as the centuries rolled on, evil times
fell upon them. The Dravidian races of southern India were
becoming powerful and made frequent incursions upon them,
overlhrowmg th<!ir kingdom,- plundering their treasures, and
even occupying*, the Sinhalese throne for long periods. The
story is supremely interesting, and will fascinate the tourist
who explores the relics of Ceylon's bygone greatness as set
forth and illustrated- in the antiquarian section of this work.
Here he may read the details of the rise and fall of a great
nation, and may by a personal examination of the remains as
they appear to-day verify the wonderful story.

The first intrusion of the white man took place in the year
1506, when the Portuguese, who had for eight years main-
tained a fleet in Indian waters, accidentally discovered Ceylon
when on a piratical expedition for the capture of Moorish
vessels trading between Cambay and Sumatra. On this
occasion, after some palaver with the owners of Moorish ships
off Colombo, the Portuguese captain. Major Dom Louren90,
sent an embassy to the King at Cotta, who entered into a
treaty of mutual friendship and trade, and moreover permitted
the" . erection of a stofie mbnument to be erected at Colombo
to' commemorate the discovery of Ceylon. Historians are not
altogether in agreement about this event; but there still exists
a rock near the harbour of Colombo engraved with the Portu-
guese Royal Arms and the date 1501. It is however difficult
to reconcile the engraved date with the general historical facts
of the period, which go to prove the year 1506 as the date of
discovery. The Portuguese remained but a short time upon
their first visit, but kept up intercourse with Ceylon in the
three-fold character of merchants, missionaries and pirates, a
combination which they had found effective in obtaining settle-
ments in the Persian Gulf, India and Malacca, and a few years
later they obtained a stronghold at Colombo. The period was
favourable to their enterprise. Political authority throughout
Ceylon had become divided amongst numerous minor kings
or chiefs who held imitation courts in at least half a dozen
petty capitals. The north was in possession of the Tamils,
and the sea ports were controlled by Moors. The monarch
of the south-west was Dharma Parakrama IX., whose good-
will was -craftily gained by a promise on the part of the
Portuguese admiral to aid him with military services in his
difficulties due to the intrigues and ambitions of other claimants
to the throne. Thus did the Portuguese first obtain their

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13. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA.

REMAINS AT JAFFnA. '9'^'^^^ ^V

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15. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA.

16. NAVAL ENGAGEMENT BETWEEN DUTCH AND PORTUGUESE,

(Baliiocus.)

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

footing in Colombo. They soon erected a fort, under the guns History
of which they could trade in spite of the hostility of the Moors ; j^^
and although the latter besieged them for many months they ^°^^^f^^^
succeeded in establishing themselves securely, eventually gain- ^^^^
ing possession of all the maritime provinces, of which they
remained the masters for one hundred and fifty years. But
for them Ceylon proved a hornets* nest rather than, a bed of
roses. The Sinhalese of the interior did not at all approve of
the alliance between Parakrama and the Europeans, and with
remarkable courage they attacked the allies persistently, and
with such vigour that by the year 1563 the royal stronghold
of Cotta fell, and the humiliated king thenceforward resided
within the walls of Colombo under the more immediate pro-
tection of the Portuguese guns. So bitterly was the intrusion
of the Portuguese resented by the majority of the Sinhalese
that all their settlements on the coast were frequently attacked
and the inhabitants put to death. The struggle lasted without
intermission for one hundred and fifty years. It is impossible
not to admire the spirit of patriotism which sustained the
Sinhalese in their continual warfare over so long a period.
The arts of war introduced by the foreigner were so rapidly
learnt and improved upon, especially in the manufacture of
weapons, that they excelled the Portuguese, and on more than
one occasion defeated them in the field owing to superior
acquaintance with the use of arms and the tactics that had
been first employed against them. Moreover these sturdy
patriots had to contend not only with the Portuguese, but with
large bands of their own countrymen who had been won over
to the enemy. It was an easy task for the Europeans to take
advantage of the rivalries amongst the petty kings and chief-
tains, and they were not slow to avail themselves of their
opportunities. For obvious reasons the details of the struggle
cannot be introduced here, but the tourist who can spare the
time to look up the local history of the period in the work of
Tennent and other authorities will be the better qualified to
appreciate the Portuguese influence that is still observable in
the country, and to discern other results of the efforts of the
first European colonists in Ceylon which will be brought before
him in these pages.

At length Ceylon was lost to the Portuguese, who were The Dutch
succeeded by the Dutch under circumstances that may shortly
be told. The Portuguese had been in possession of the carrying
trade between Europe and the East for nearly a century when
Philip II. of Spain acquired the kingdom of Portugal and at
the same time lost the allegiance of the United Provinces, who
in their struggle for independence organised a powerful navy
to protect their merchant vessels engaged in sea carriage
c

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THE BOOK OK CEYLON

History

Arrival of
the Dutch

between European ports. Philip struck at this commerce, and
in so doing ultimately brought disaster upon the Portuguese.
The Dutch carried on a considerable trade upon the T'agus in
purchasing the cargoes brought from the East by the Portu-
guese and transporting them to the northern capital. This
traffic being interrupted by the short-sighted policy of Philip,
the Dutch turned their attention to the East and subverted the
Portuguese monopoly there. In May 1602 the first Dutch
ship seen in Ceylon anchored off Batticaloa. Its commander,
Spilberg, with some difficulty ingratiated himself with the local
chief who facilitated his journey to Kandy, where he offered
King Wimala Dharma an offensive and defensive alliance with
the Prince of Orange. This alliance was accepted with alacrity,
the Kandyan king being delighted at the prospect of ousting
his bitter enemies the Portuguese. This was eventually accom-
plished ; but the event did not accord with the aspirations which
Spilberg had excited in the heart of the King. De Weert,
who undertook the first cruise against the Portuguese, when
under the influence of wine insulted the King, who instantly
ordered his attendants to arrest him. Upon his offering
resistance he was immediately killed. For the few years subse-
quent to this event the Dutch do not appear to have made any
further attempt to obtain a fooling in the island; and mean-
while King Wimala Dharma died. His brother Senerat married
the widowed Queen and in the year 1609 a renewal of the
alliance was made, followed by a treaty which gave permission
to the Dutch to erect a fort at Cottiar on the north-east coast,
and secured to them trade monopolies in return for promised
military aid against the Portuguese. But the fort when erected
was promptly destroyed by the Portuguese. The Dutch played
fast and loose with their Kandyan allies and for the next decade
the Portuguese were in the ascendant. In 1627 Senerat, seeing
his kingdom encircled by Portuguese garrisons, and being
deserted by his Dutch allies, made a great effort. He suc-
ceeded in kindling a national movement, organised a con-
spiracy amongst the low country chiefs who had gone over to
the Portuguese, and with their aid deluded the governor at
Colombo into leading his European army against Uva, where
they were deserted by all their low country Sinhalese adherents,
entrapped and slaughtered. The head of the Portuguese,
Governor Constantine de Saa, was presented to the crown
prince, whd shortly after came to the Kandyan throne as Rajah
Sinha II., and during his reign the Portuguese were finally
expelled from Ceylon. This however was not accomplished
until the -lapse of twenty-four years. Rajah Sinha, notwith-
standing the heavy blow w'hich his predecessor had dealt the
Portuguese just before his death, could not hope to get rid of

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17. MURDER OF A DUTCH COMMANDER BY THE SINHALESE.

.18. DEATH OF DE WEERT.
{Baldaeus.)

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19. RAJAH SINHA RECEIVES THE DUTCH GENERAL AT KANDY.

20. THE TAKING OF QALLE BY THE DUTCH.
iBaldceus,)

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

them without assistance; he therefore appealed to the Dutch History
at Batavia, where they had a powerful fleet, and invited them j-/^ n^tch
to join him in a great effort to expel the Portuguese from »» Ceyion
Ceylon. The invitation was accepted and a twenty-years'
conflict began. One after another the coast forts fell to the
Dutch. Batticaloa, Trincomale, Negombo, Matara, Galle were
all in their hands, and the investment of Colombo itself was
already complete before Rajah Sinha realised that the eff'orts
and sacrifices he was making would end only in the exchange
of one enemy for another. The power of the Dutch now
alarmed him, and he began to favour the Portuguese, per-
mitting them to re-capture Negombo while he himself refused
to capture Colombo, although he could have occupied it easily.
The unexpected then happened. Events in Europe led to an
armistice between Portugal and Holland with the result that
Rajah Sinha was confronted with the sight of the two armies
at peace with one another and respectively occupying the terri-
tories in Ceylon which they had previously conquered. He now
saw the hopelessness of attempting to get rid of both and
adopted the policy of stirring up strife between them. The
Dutch preserved their self-possession and persuaded the King
that all his troubles were due to the machinations of the Portu-
guese. The aim of the Dutch was to obtain the monopoly
of the cinnamon trade with the possession of the gardens, and
to this end they approached Rajah Sinha with flattery, bribes
and servility. Matters had begun to assume a quieter aspect
when events in Europe again affected the destinies of Ceylon.
In 1650 the truce between Portugal and Holland ended, and
a declaration of war by the Netherlands followed in 1652.
Thus the Dutch and Portuguese in Ceylon were again brought The
into deadly rivalry. Rajah Sinha favoured the Dutch. Galle I'^lfi^'l'^'
and Kalutara were first taken, and after a severe struggle,
lasting for seven months, Colombo capitulated on May 17th,
1656.

The Dutch were now masters of every port in the island ;
but they had taken them in the name of Rajah Sinha, acting
under a treaty with that monarch so worded that he had a
right to expect them to regard themselves as occupying the
recovered territories on his behalf. They preferred, however,
to place on the treaty an interpretation more favourable to
themselves, and occupied the fortresses as their own by right
of conquest. Thus the Kandyans were duped, and found that,
notwithstanding their brave efforts, they had merely exchanged
Portuguese for Hollander, and were still confined to their fast-
nesses in the central mountain zone. Unlike the Portuguese
the Dutch dissipated none of their strength in fanatical mis-
sionary zeal; th^ir whole thought and energy were directed

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

History

Dutch forii

Dutch policy

The British
occupation.

to securing trade monopoly. By means of a string of greatly
improved forts at all the ports serving the cinnamon country
and other rich parts of the island they were able to repel the
incursions of the Kandyans, and to insure that nothing was
exported save through their factories. The remains of their
forts at this day abundantly prove how thoroughly they carried
out this policy. The brave Kandyans, enduring all this with
impatience, frequently put them to the sword, heaped upon
them contumely and outrage, and even executed their ambas-
sadors. To such treatment the Dutch replied only with further
blandishments and presents and new embassies, by which
means they sought to allay resentment while they secured
the wealth and produce of the country and shipped it, not
only to Europe, but to India, Persia and other countries of
the East. Commerce was their one and only object, and to
preserve this a policy unworthy of conquerors was maintained
towards the Kandyans during the whole of the Dutch period
in Ceylon. It was in fact a policy of obtaining wealth by any
and every artifice, a method no^ unknown to or unpractised
by even prouder nations at this period.

We have seen how in turn the Portuguese and the Dutch
came into partial possession of Ceylon and what use they made
of their conquests. We now proceed to the British period and
the consideration of the social and economic changes that
followed on the British occupation. The attention of Great
Britain was not turned to Ceylon with ideas of conquest until
late in the eighteenth century, when it became absolutely
necessary that it should be added to the Indian possessions of
the British Crown. The Dutch had never done n\ore than
occupy the maritime provinces in military fashion. It remained
for the British to introduce civilised colonisation throughout the
length and breadth of the island, and to develop its resources.
The rupture between Great Britain and Holland in 1795 was
the occasion of sending a force against Ceylon. The King of
Kandy was as anxious now to ally himself with the English
for the expulsion of the Dutch as his predecessor had been to
ally himself vt4th the Dutch to oust the Portuguese ; but before
negotiations could be concluded the British had taken posses-
sion of all the fortresses. Trincomale, after a three weeks*
siege, was the first to fall ; Jaffna next surrendered ; Calpentyn
and Negombo were in turn occupied ; Colombo and the rest
capitulated, and by February i6th, 1796, the occupation was
complete. The Dutch were not driven out by the English as
the Portuguese had been by the Dutch. On the contrary their
property was preserved to them, their institutions were upheld,
their code of laws adopted, and public offices of trust were
awarded to them which their descendants hold to this day.

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21. THE DUTCH FORT AT BATTICALOA.

22. DUTCH CHURCH AT JAFFNA.

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2a QUEEN STREET COLOMBO, FROM THE GORDON GARDENS.

24, QUEEN STREET, COLOMBO, FROM GALLE FACE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Result of
r fKflicy

their /

A short period of mismanagement followed the annexation. History
The administration of the new colony was placed in the hands ^ke BHiish
of the Governor of Madras who gave great offence to the »« Ceyion
Sinhalese by sending over incompetent civilians assrsted 'by
Malabar subordinates to collect the revenues. The unwisdom
of this policy was, however, soon rectified by the home govern-
ment, who decided that Ceylon should be governed by the
Crown direct by means of a responsible Governor and civil
officers appointed by the King. The beneficent policy thus
introduced gradually wrought the change that has made Ceylon
one of the freest, happiest, most prosperous and attractive
countries in the world.

What a century of British rule has accomplished for Ceylon
the tourist will see for himself as he explores the island with
the assistance and information proffered in these pages. I
do not here refer to the difficulties with which the British had
to contend before the Kandyans submitted to the new govern-
ment or do I explain the methods which brought about the
great amelioration now enjoyed by all races that inhabit the
island. It will be of greater interest to the traveller to learn
these things as he journeys over the ground where historical
incidents have occurred, where the improvement in civil life
is most manifest, and where economic progress has been most
noticeable.

We have seen how our predecessors came into possession The British
of Ceylon, what use they made of it, and how and when it was <»<''"»'»•*-
transferred to us. Before proceeding to consider how we have
dealt with it and what are its present attractions it may be
of interest to describe the system of administration.

It is a common error to suppose that Ceylon is controlled
by the administration of India. Ethnologically only is it part
of India. Geographically, politically and in every other way
it is distinct from the adjoining continent. Its system of
government is that of a Crown Colony, which literally means
autocratic rule by the minister who happens for the time being
to preside over the Colonial Office in London ; but the actual
administration is in the hands of a Governor, assisted by an
Executive Council of the chief five officials in the Colony.
The local legislature consists of the Governor, the above coun-
cillors, four other government officials of the civil service and
eight unofficial members appointed by the Governor. From
this preponderance of officials and the circumstance that all
ordinances are subject to the sanction or veto of the Secretary
of State in London it will be seen that the people have little
voice in the government of the colony. Nevertheless public
opinion through the press has its influence upon the council,
which usually acts with wisdom and discretion. The fact that

tration

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26 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The British all sections and classes of the population are prosperous and
Administration contented is the best defence of the system, which, however
objectionable it may seem in theory, works well in practice.
The power and responsibility for good or ill placed in the
hands of Governors of Ceylon have never been misused. The
Governors have been a series of men remarkable for their
industry and their capacity for directing the destinies of the
country placed in their charge, and to them is mainly due its
present high place amongst British possessions.

The Governor receives his appointment from the Crown,
generally for a term of six years, and his powers are con-
trolled only by the authority of the Crown. The adoption or
rejection of the advice and enactments of his councils and
legislature rests entirely with himself. He can overrule their
deliberations or nullify their labours ; but the necessity for
such extreme measures has scarcely ever arisen. The functions
of government are carried out by a civil service organised on
the model of that of India. Each of the nine provinces into
which the island is divided has its chief and assistant govern-
ment agents, who are responsible to the central Government.
Details of their important duties and the organisation of the
administration carried out by them will be gathered in the
accounts of the various provinces through which the traveller
will be conducted.
Attractions The attractions of Ceylon are manifold and appeal to a

of Ceylon variety of tastes and needs. First of all the economic condi-

tions of the country are encouraging to the capitalist who
devotes his energies to tropical agriculture as a means of
increasing wealth ; tea, rubber and cocoanuts flourish remark-
ably and seldom fail to yield an abundant return to the careful
investor. Many people visit Ceylon in search of health, or
to escape the rigours of the European winter, and it is
noticeable that the visit once made is often repeated. As a
health resort Ceylon not only possesses a warm and equable
climate, but the recommendation of complete change of scene.
To the enervated European residents of the plains of India it
is a veritable paradise; they are discovering that a visit to
Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is not only a source of health but
of enjoyment, and that it restores their vanished energies
without the great expenditure of time and money involved in
a voyage to Europe. At any rate a visit to Ceylon during the
Indian hot season offers many more advantages than the usual
sojourn in a hill station in India itself. The change of air
and of scene is more complete. To the leisured classes the
attractions of Ceylon are perhaps the greatest, and it is satis-
factory to be able to assurie the public that consideration for
their comfort and convenience is always increasing. The

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MAP
ISLAND^ GfYLOU

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Pistnet

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

northern railway has added immensely to the opportunities Attraction*
of the visitor who can now explore the most remarkable ®' Ceylon
antiquities in the world with a reasonable expenditure of time
and in perfect comfort. Every leisured taste can be gratified
— whether it be antiquarian, aesthetic, ethnological, entomo-
logical, botanical ok sporting; and when it is considered that
the gratification of such tastes can be accomplished in such
an agreeable climate and during a period when the very
opposite conditions prevail in Eurppe it is almost a wonder
that any who can avail themselves of these opportunities fail
to do so. In this age of the open-air cure, what more per-
fectly suitable can be imagined than this land of open doors
and windows, where there is no chill in the breeze or miasma
in the draught; but everywhere a genial and health-giving
atmosphere.

Colombo being the ** Clapham Junction " of the Eastern The voyage
shipping world, it can be easily reached from any part of the
earth. From Europe the choice of steamer and route is too
extensive for detailed mention here; it may however be stated
generally that for those who like a long sea voyage it is
desirable to embark in London or Liverpool, in which case
the time of tfie voyage will be from twenty-two to twenty-five
days. Steamships are now so large and luxurious that there
is no longer fear of any considerable discomfort from rough
■weather for the nioderately good sailor. Moreover, if he likes
the sea and derives benefit from it he will get more for his
money by avoiding the continental routes. On the other hand
the indifferent sailor or the traveller to whom time is an
object will do well to embark at Marseilles, Genoa or Naples ;
while one in great haste will accompany the mails vid Brindisi,
whence lie will dash across to Port Said, regardless of weather,
in the diminutive Isis or Osiris at a speed which gives rise to
motion that has not all the quality of poetry. The traveller
so pressed may reach Ceylon in fifteen days; nine of which
will be pleasant enough ; for at Port Said he will tranship to the
Australian mail steamship and come down to a speed of 375
miles a day. The route' vid Marseilles is preferable and gives
a wider choice of steamships. The time taken from London
to Colombo vid Marseilles is seventeen to eighteen days.

The character of the first glimpse of Ceylon necessarily First glimpse
varies with the time of day and the atmospheric conditions ®* Ceylon
that may be prevailing. During the north-east monsoon, from
October to April, which is the best season for visiting Ceylon,
the conditions are generally favourable, and the scene which
unfolds itself to us if we are early risers, and have the good
fortune to approach the coast at break of day, is one of unique
beauty.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

irst ^Irapse
of Ceylon

A pleaching
Colombo

Entering ttu
hat hour

We behold first the mountain zone, sacred to tea production,
rising in one mighty upheaval from the plains of Ceylon, and
capped in the centre by the venerated peak named after our
first parent. The mists are as yet lying in the valleys, and
the cool blue tones above them give us the true contour of
those fertile mountains upon which millions of tea bushes are
flourishing. At different elevations there are four entensive
ledges which appear to rise abruptly from the base, and from
these a number of lofty mountains raise their rugged brows to
the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet. Here we get the best idea
of the formation of those highlands which we shall presently
explore, whose deep ravines and grassy plains, dense forests
and open valleys, gentle streams and roaring cataracts, no
less than their tens of thousands of acres of tea, we shall sec
in the fuller detail of closer view.

As we approach nearer and nearer we see the mists arise,
attracted upwards by the rays of the rising sun, and a scene
of verdant loveliness is disclosed which stands in welcome con-
trast to the parched and barren shores we have left behind
at Suez and Aden. The mountains are now lost to view and
the details of the beautiful palm-fringed shores gradually
Increase as we steam towards the harbour.

A few objects rising from the mass of foliage arouse our
curiosity during the last three or four miles of our approach.
On the extreme right is Mount Lavinia Hotel, seven miles
south of the harbour. Galle Face, a lawn of some three
hundred acres, devoted to cricket, hockey, football and a
seaside esplanade, appears prominently on the starboard bow;
and it will be noticed that the greensward terminates at the
south and in an extensive and handsome building which is
Galle Face Hotel. The building of oval shape near the hotel
is the Colombo Club. Straight ahead we notice the dome of the
Roman Catholic Cathedral, to the left of which appears the
tower of the Anglican Cathedral; while on the right of it are
the Dutch Church of Wolfendahl and the spire of the Anglican
Sinhalese Church of All Saints.

Now we enter the harbour and the eye is filled by the
luxuriant life and the brilliant light that combine to greet us.
We glance for a moment at the noble breakwaters fixed so
firmly in the ocean bed- that year after year they with-
stand the masses of sea hurled upon them by the fury of the
monsoons.

The ronstn^ctlon of the harbour was begun in the year of
King Edward's isit to Ceylon, 1875, and the first block of
the south-west "m, which is 4,000 feet long, was laid by
his Majesty (l. Prince of Wales). The complete scheme
will be seen u^ reference to our map. It comprises three

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26. THE PALM-FRINQED SHORE.

27. PLAN OF THE HARBOUR.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLGN

breakwaters, the north-west, the middle, and the south- Harbour of
west, the aggregate length being about 8,000 feet with ^'®"''*®
openings for entrance and exit. The harbour thus formed
has a water area of a square mile and provides accommodation
for about fifty steamers besides smaller craft. At the north-
east is a dry dock which is capable of receiving any warship
or merchant vessel afioat, and in addition to this a slip has
been provided for the overhauling and repair of smaller vessels.
This fine harbour, which has cost about two and a half millions
of pounds sterling, has been of immense value to the colony, not
only in protecting from the fury of the elements the ships that
bring supplies and carry away the country's produce, but in
attracting the shipping of the Eastern world, and of the more
distant colonies, by the convenience it offers as a coaling
station and entrepdt for exchange of passengers. The ship-
ping trade now carried on within this port would have been
impossible in the 'seventies, when every vessel was compelled
to anchor in the open roadstead, and to embark and discharge
in a sea that was often rough and sometimes dangerous.
Indeed, so difficult was the transaction of shipping business
owing to the heavy surf that the P. & O. Company avoided
Colombo altogether and landed both passengers and mails at
Galle. The transformation is one of which the colony may
well be proud. There are now from twenty to forty steam-
ships always to be seen riding at anchor within the harbour,
and the tonnage entered and cleared in the course of the year
amounts to upwards of ten nitlUons. The volume of business
which such figures suggest is striking, not the least important
consideration being the constant and regular shipping of the
colony's produce to the markets of the world.

Some idea of the protection afforded by the south-west
breakwater may be obtained by a glance at our illustration.
Here we see the effect of the south-west monsoon driving
enormous waves with terrific force against the great mass of
concrete whose resist^ :e shoots them aloft in masses of
spray that often extend*, ime thousands of feet, and frequently
enshroud the harbour. Such scenes prevail in June and con-
tinue with diminishing vehemence until October, when the
north-east monsoon sets in, blowing from off the land.

We have now arrived within the harbour, and our atteri- wuhin the
tion is arrested by many quaint scenes. A multitude ot
canoes from the shore are making for oUr vessel. Their
singular form immediately excites our curiosity. Each is
constructed from the trunk of a tree, which is first hollowed
out and then levelled at the top. Balance is secured by an
outrigger attachment, which consists of two poles of wood
extending at right angles to a distance of about ten feet from
D

The
breaktoaitr

harbour

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Sinhalese

Advice
to the
pasaenser

Landing:

The
Customs

the body of the boat, and connected at the ends by a float.
Our illustration will .give a better idea of them than verbal
description. Boats of this construction are used almost uni-
versally by the Sinhalese for fishing and for passenger traffic.
They withstand the roughest sea, and literally fly before the
breeze. As each steamer drops anchor within the magnificent
breakwater of Colombo these weird crafts crowd around, many
of them bringing traders laden with precious stones, which
will be offered at double or treble their value to unwary pass-
engers ; others plying, for the hire of therr boats to take
passengers ashore, some with dusky Tamils who sing unceas-
ingly to the plash of their oars; many with comely Sinhalese
of lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot
surmounted by a tortoiseshell comb, giving them a curiously
feminine appearance; some with Indo-Arab traders in curious
costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall
plaited brimless hats of parti-coloured silks. This motley
fleet is the first scene of novelty that claims attention upon
arrival in the harbour of Colombo.

Travellers who have not been in the East before should
now, as the ship drops anchor, accept and lay well to heart
two pieces of emphatic advice ; first, never expose your head
to the sun's rays unprotected by a good sun hat and an open
umbrella; and second, beware of the importunate sharks who
offer you ** bargains " in precious stones and curiosities. If
you do not want such things do not buy them; but it you do
want them inquire of the local agents of well-known London
houses such as Messrs. Henry S. King & Co. and Messrs.
Thos. Cook & Sons, who will recommend you to the most
trustworthy native dealers. No bargaining is necessary or
even admissible in the English shops of Colombo, but outside
them the traveller must be his own judge of values. To this
admonition may perhaps be added one more. Do not brook
any pestering or annoyance on the part of jinrickshaw coolies
or others ; but inform the police, who have their instructions
to protect the stranger from all importunities to which he
objects.

The distance of the landing jetty from our ship will vary
from a mile to a few hundred yards according to the berth
allotted for anchorage. Passengers go ashore at their own
convenience in launches, canoes, or jolly boats, all of which
ply for hire around the stea^her. The boats are licensed. The
rates of hire are observable in a prominent place upon arrival
at the landing jetty, and a jetty sergeant is present to afford
information and check any incivility on the part of boatmen.

The Customs officials are courteous and obliging to tra-
vellers, who are not required to pay duty on such articles as

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30. CARTING TEA FOR SHIPMENT.

31. THE GRAND ORIENTAL HOTEL

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

comprise ordinary travelling baggage. But firearms are liable
to a duty of five to ten rupees ; and articles which are not in
use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of 5*2
per cent, on that value.

Rates of carriage hire, Vickshaw hire, portages and statis-
tical information generally are given at the end of this volume,
and will be easily found on reference to the index.

In few of the world's large ports is the traveller offered
so pleasant a prospect upon landing. There is usually a slum
to be traversed before the surroundings become attractive, but
here we are at once in pleasant places. Upon leaving the
jetty we arrive in the Fort, which term in olden times, as
we shall later show, bore its literal meaning ; but now indicates
that portioo of Colombo occupied chiefly by the residence of
the Governor, the offices of the Government and of the British
merchants. We are impressed by the prosperous appearance
of the place. The streets are broad; the roads are good;
the merchants* offices and stores are capacious and in many
instances possess considerable architectural merit, while the
hotels are superior to any others in the East, a matter of no
small importance to the traveller and resident alike. We are
at once confronted by one of them. The Grand Oriental Hotel
faces us as we leave the harbour. Our illustration will give
some idea of its proportions. The **G.O.H.," as this fine
hotel is familiarly called, commands the best view of the
harbour and shipping. In approaching it we pass over a
bridge under which runs a road specially constructed for cart
traffic to the harbour. Here we notice operations sufficiently
novel to attract the attention of the traveller, and at the same
time very significant of Ceylon's prosperity.

Hundreds of pairs of Indian humped-bulls are drawing down
thousands of chests of Ceylon tea ; dusky Tamil and Sinhalese
coolies are receiving it into boats and conveying it to the
steamers. Every stroke of work ashore or pull of oar afloat
is accompanied by an inordinate amount of jabber. The
tongue of the harbour coolie seems to move automatically, but
we are told that the soft tones which he ejaculates could not
be translated into English : there are no words or phrases
sufficiently shocking for the purpose. However, as we do not
understand him we are not offended ; while his methods and
proceedings amuse us.

Quite near the entrance of the Grand Oriental Hotel will
be noticed a statue of Queen Victoria in white marble. This
was erected by the colony as a memorial of her Majesty's
Diamond Jubilee in 1897. ^^ 's the work of Mr. G. E. Wade.

Those who visit the Grand Oriental Hotel will note its
handsome dining hall, charming palm court and garden, fine

The
CnstoMs

Th« Port

Th:

shiptnent
0/ tea

The

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38 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Fort billiard rooms, and above all its outlook over the harbour
whence our view, plate 25, was obtainecl. The cosmopolitan
nature of the crowds that assemble in the spacious verandahs
and balconies, when steamers from various parts of the world
arrive together, affords mutual interest and amusement. At
night the gardens are brilliantly illuminated.
U7F^oTt ^^^ Fort, a plan of which is annexed, can easily be ex-

plored on foot and without a guide. By turning to the left
on leaving the front entrance of the hotel we pass the old
banqueting hall of the Dutch Governors, which now docs duty
as the English Garrison Church of St. Peter. It contains
some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning
again to the left we pass along Queen Street, with the Gordon
Gardens on our right and the Legislative Council Chambers
and various Government offices on the left (Plate 32). The
Government Archives are also located here and include the
official records of the Dutch Government from the year 1640
to 1796, besides the British records from the latter date. The
Gordon Gardens were laid out and planted with a variety of
ornamental trees at the private expense of Sir Arthur Gordon
(now Lord Stanmore) when Governor of Ceylon, as his per-
sonal gift to Colombo in honour of the Jubilee of her Majesty
Queen Victoria.
The Queen's Adjoining the Gordon Gardens is the residence of the
House Governor of the colony, known as the Queen's House. Although

not a handsome building its massive masonry and spacious
corridors provide what is most desirable in a tropical residence,
protection from the sun's rays, while the grounds of some
four acres are shaded by beautiful trees. It was erected about
the middle of the last century. We cannot give an adequate
idea of the architecture or general appearance of this building
from a photograph, for it is not only in a somewhat confined
position for so large a house, but is also embowered in foliage.
Some idea of its appearance from the street may be gathered
from our plate 33.
Gfturai Immediately opposite the Queen's House is the General

Post Office pQg^ Qff^^^ (Pljj^g ^^j Of this building the colony is proud,
although comfort has been sacrificed somewhat to appearance.
The European staff find it rather warm. Of the department
housed here only praise can be given. The colony is abreast
of the times in its postal arrangements, and in many instances
offers advantages that the Old Country has not begun to pro-
vide, notably, a value-payable parcels post; while its post-card
and newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain.
The visitor will find the arrangements for his convenience
satisfactory and complete. He will enter by the handsome
flight of steps leading to a spacious hall floored \wth intaglio

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TMB OENERAL POST OFFICE.

33. THE QUEEN'S HOUSE.

30. RANKS AND BANKS IN QUEEN STREET.

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36. IMPORTING HOUSE OF CAVE & CO., QUEEN STREET.

37. CHATHAM STREET.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLOX

tiles. Here he will find the poste-restante counters as well as The Port
every other postal facility.

The next buildings to claim our notice as we pass along gucm strut
Queen Street are the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank and the
Chartered Bank of India on the left (Plate 35). These institu-
tions occupy the building once famous as the premises of the
Oriental Bank which came to grief nearly thirty years ago
through the ruin of the coffee industry. Its failure gave
occasion for a striking act of courage on the part of Sir Arthur
Gordon, who was then Governor. The notes o^ the bank were
held by natives all over the island and represented their only
medium of exchange for food. With the closing of the bank's
doors starvation must inevitably have overtaken them had
not Sir Arthur Gordon pledged the credit of Government as
guaranteeing payment of the note issue. Few Governors
would have dared so much; but Sir Arthur was the man for
such a crisis, and his action has ever been remembered with
gratitude. Opposite these banks is another institution of a
similar character, the Mercantile Bank of India. An equally
venerable thing is the sacred Bo Tree which flourishes at its
entrance. This tree is of the same species as the famous
specimen at Anaradhapura, now upwards of two thousand
years old, whose history is described on a later page.

Here Queen Street is intersected by Chatham Street, and
in the middle of the crossings stands the Lighthouse of
Colombo, which serves the additional purpose of a clock tower.
The quadrilateral shape of this building is unusual in a light-
house, and its more important purpose is sometimes unsus-
pected by the visitor who passes by. Quite close to the
lighthouse is a fine building occupying the corner of Upper
Chatham and Queen Streets with a frontage of four hundred
feet. It is the importing house of the Messrs. Cave (Plate 36),
agents for Messrs. Henry S. King & Co., and a rendezvous
for passengers where they can obtain reliable information and
purchase such articles as they are most* likely to need. In
particular the whole bibliography of Ceylon is available here.
As we approach the end of Queen Street we notice the military
officers* quarters on the right, the left being occupied chiefly
by the offices of shipping houses and produce brokers.

We now proceed by way of Chatham Street. Our view
(Plate 37) is from Cave's entrance. The stranger will be
struck with the picturesque appearance of this and other streets
of Colorrtbo due to the Katu Imbul or rain trees by which they
are shaded. They are called rain trees from the circumstance
that at night the leaves fold into a kind of sack in which the
moisture condenses, and at sunrise when the leaves open is
discharged in a shower. The Suriya tree (Thespesia populnea)

The

light houst

Henry S.
King & Co

Chatham
Street

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Port

Chatham
Street

Tewelltn

York Street

also affords shade to many of the streets and roads ; it flowers
profusely with delicate primrose-coloured blossoms, large and
showy, changing, to purple as they fade, and in form resembling
the single scarlet hibiscus. The roads are metalled with dark
red cabook, a product of disintegrated gneiss, which being
subjected to detrition communicates its hue to the soil. This
feature of the roads is not only pleasant for its vivid contrast
with the verdure of the trees; but is most useful in softening
the glare of tropical sunlight. This alleviation, due to the
presence of cabook, extends along the south-west coast and
includes Galle ; but the traveller will note its absence in Kandy,
whose white roads are not exactly soothing to the vision.
During dry weather the fine red dust imparts its tint to one's
clothing, an evil of small account in a place where it is too
hot for smart attire.

After passing the German Consulate and the offices of the
agents of the Nord Deutscher Lloyd, we notice that Chatham
Street is composed of a strange medley of restaurants, native
jewellers', curiosity shops and provision boutiques, and that
the houses are for the most part old and limited to one floor.
It is a remnant of old Colombo in the sailing ship days
and must soon disappear ^s most of the Dutch buildings have
already done, giving place to colossal houses of business
befitting the dignity oi the port. The visitor will, however,
fitrd many curious things in the Sinhalese jewellers* shops.
Hardly any attempt is made to display the wares to the view
of the passer by; but if he will enter and take a seat at the
empty table he may be surprised at the beautiful workmanship
in ivory and jewelled caskets, the tortoiseshell work and the
precious stones that will be hauled out of safe places and set
before him in these humble-looking shanties.

We turn to the left into York Street (Plates 39 and 40),
which would scarcely be recognised by those who left Ceylon
twenty years ago. It contained the eastern wall and moat of
the old Dutch fort which have disappeared in favour of the
Office of Public Works, the Bristol Hotel, the Survey Depart-
ment and the Chamber of Commerce.

The Survey Department stands on the right of the way
leading to the Fort Railway Station, a continuation of Chatham
Street which we see before we turn into York Street. Here
the meteorological records are received from the ^various
stations all over the country and prepared for publication ;
maps and plans are executed under the direction of the
Surveyor General, the lithographic equipment for this purpose
being of the most complete and perfect description. A detailed
and accurate survey of all the lands of the colony has for some
years been the chief work of this department of the Govern-
ment.

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39. YORK STREET.

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40. YORK STREET.

41. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Opposite the Survey Department Offices is the location of The Port
the Chamber of Commerce. This society was established in chamber of
Colombo in the year 1837 to protect the interests of the colony's ^^^^"^^
trade. All the important mercantile firms are represented in
its deliberations. It gives authority to rates of agency and
commission; it fixes a standard tonnage scale for all classes
of produce ; arranges rules and conditions of produce sales ;
nominates surveyors, arbitrators and umpires, thereby giving
an official character to their reports and awards ; and assists
the Government by its discussions and resolutions upon com-
mercial matters which call for legislation. Its influence in this
last direction is important and considerable, and is rendered
the more effective by the circumstance that its wishes are made
known in the legislative assemblies by the Mercantile Member
of the Council, who is practically its own representative.

The Department of Public Works is first on our right as Public
we proceed along York Street. It is responsible for the ex- ^^'l^^
penditure of about ?i\Q, millions of rupees per annum on the con-
struction of roads, bridges, government buildings and public
works generally throughout the colony. The office of the
Registrar General is in the same building.

The Bristol Hotel partly observable in our plate is one of BHitoi Hotel
the three large hotels in Colombo which can justly and proudly
boast of being second to none in the East. It is well appointed,
comfortable, and enjoys a large local clientele as well as the
patronage of the passing tourist. Opposite the Bristol is the
handsome store of Cargills, Limited, which will interest the
traveller who has wants to be supplied. The National Bank
and the Victoria Arcade are next noticed, the latter being
interesting as containing the local offices of Messrs. Thos.
Cook & Son and the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Com- ^ ^°**
pany. Prince Street and Baillie Street intersect the square
which we have traversed. The latter is a somewhat narrow,
and therefore treeless, but*jusy thoroughfare, containing many
merchants' offices, the Bank of Madras and the office of the
Ceylon Observer, a daily newspaper edited by the Hon. Mr.
John Ferguson, C.M.G., who represents the general European
interests in the Legislative Council of the colony, and his son
Mr. Ronald Ferguson.

Colombo may be seen in a day with or without a guide; Guides
but thousands of passengers who spend only a day ashore fail
to obtain any adequate idea of the place from want of reliable
advice and direction. Local guide books teem with adver-
tisements and consign you to the shops. The human guide
does little more unless you know what you want to do and
insist on doing it. In this book the interests of the visitor
only are considered. If he wants to see Colombo in a day let

Thos. Cook

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42. MAIN STRICT.

43. MAIN STREET.

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47. FRUIT MARKET.

48. ORAND PASS ROAO.

40. THE TERMINUS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 47

him spend half an hour round the Fort by the route described ; "«*' *? »•«
then take a first class seat in front, of the tram car for the ^'®"' ^
Grand Pass terminus upon the Kelaniya River; next vfsit ^<'«'«
Maradana an'd Borella by the same means of Ipcomotion;
afterwards hire a carriage,* drive along Galle Face, Union
Place, Vauxhall Road, the Lake, Hyde Park Corner, the
Cinnamon Gardens, the Hospital, Horton Place, Gregory's
Road, the Museum, Turret Road, Polwatte and Kolupitiya.
Then if time permits drive to Mutwall. The visitor who follows
the illustrated description of this route in these pages will have
seen Colombo and should it be his first visit to the East he
will have received enough new impressions to dwell upon for
the rest of his voyage whatever his destination may be.

A glance at our map of Colombo will show the routes taken Tramways
by the electric tram cars. A start is made for Grand Pass
from the Fort terminus near the Grand Oriental Hotel. Most
of the cars are fitted with outside seats in front, which are
first class. Into one of these we step. The first scene is
that presented in our plate 42, Main Street. The Times (daily
newspaper) office is on our right, and the Colombo Iron Works
on our left. We now leave the Fort and are carried along
past tens of thousands of tons of coal which proclaim their
own story of the vast amount of shipping that comes this
way. A minute later we are in the Pettah, the natives'
London. The effect is kaleidoscopic. Moormen or Indo-Arab
traders occupy Main Street (Plate 43) with well-stocked stores
containing every description of goods. The street widens at
Kayman*s Gate, so called after a Dutch officer. Here (Plate 44)
will be noticed an old Dutch curfew bell which may have been
used in the seventeenth century to toll the knell of parting day,
but not as in Europe to warn the inhabitants to put out their
fires. Here in the vicinity of the Town Hall we notice the
great diversity of races represented : Sinhalese, Moors, Tamils,
Parsees, Dulch, Portuguese, Malays and Afghans ; the variety
of costume worn by each race in accordance with caste or
social position, from the simple loin cloth of the cooly to the
gorgeous attire of the wealthy and high-caste gentleman ;-
the different complexions and forms of toilet, the avocations
carried on in the open street, are all entertaining to the visitor
who for the first time becomes a witness of the manners and
customs of oriental life. At every turn the eye is met by a
fresh picture, and a new subject for study is presented to the
mind. This mixed and motley crowd* live their life and carry
on their labours almost entirely in public. Neither doors,
windows, nor shutters interfere with a complete view of the
interior of their houses and stalls. The handicraftsman works
* For rates of carriage hire, etc., 'see Index.

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48 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX

How to aee serenely in his open fhed, sometimes even in the open street;

Colombo women are occupied • in their most domestic affairs unveiled

- from the glance of the curious passer-bjt, and tiny children,
clothed only in the rich tints of their own complexions, sport
amongst the traffic. ; All this harmonises charmingly with the
conditions of climate and the nature of the people. The heat
renders clothing uncomifortable, and closed up dwellings unen-

Tmmwi^^ ''^' durable. The tram ride is perhaps too rapid for the stranger
ramuf^y ^^ ^^jj^ appreciate these novel scenes; but a glance at them

through three miles of native streets is all that time affords.
The terminus is reached at the River Kelaniya, about which
more information will be gathered as. this book proceeds. We
can spare a few minutes to look around at the scenes on the
river bank and even to cross the river by the ferry as the
returning trams leave at intervals of five minutes. Or we
can stroll along to the Victoria Bridge which has replaced the
old picturesque bridge-of*boats which once did the duty of
connecting the northern road with Colombo. The native life
and customs here will instruct and amuse us, and we shall
regret that time does not admit of a more prolonged explora-
tion. The return journey will enable us to enjoy more fully
the points that almost escape our notice owing to the rapidity
of the car.

The Borciia Hsving returned to our starting point we now take a seat

Tiamway -^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ moves off in the opposite direction. Proceeding

up York Street (Plate 50) ^nd turning by the Public Works
Office we pass the Chamber of Commerce, the Survey Office,
,dnd the Fort Railway Station of the southern railway. The
lake scenery first claims our attention. Presently we pass the
Royal College situated on high ground to the lelt. This is
the principal Government educational institution, the nucleus
of a future university, A distant view of St. Joseph's Roman
Catholic College across the lake is observed, a handsome build-
ing which we shall see later in the detail of closer inspection.
A ferry (Plate 51) connecting with a peninsula of the lake
called Captain's Garden provides a pretty bit of scenery, and
here we notice the operations of the washerman, the dark,
dank dboby who bleaches our soiled linen by the primitive
method .of> beating it upon slabs of rock. Upon leaving the
lake the line passes the main Railway Station upon the right
and the Technical School (Plate 52) upon the left. The latter
is 4n institution at present npt very enthusiastically appreciated
by the natives of the .country for whose benefit a paternal
government has provided it. The object of its establishment
is to provide training " in civil engineering, surveying, tele-
graphy, electrictil and mechanical engineering. The Ceylonese,
however, do not take kindly to technical work, preferring rather

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^, MuMAMMCijAH MCSQlJt,

(VA. MARADAMA ROAO,

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37. M*Hi^l4A««

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Sa. SASKETft AND fWOOiHS.

BROOMS AND BABHETS.

B*, iMf hici VENDOR.

"Dig?tf*eW«lPjcl(Ei^90Q IC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

the professions of clerks, lawyers and doctors. It is .hoped How to see
however that this attitude towards mechanics and art will soon ^®*®«"**®
disappear and that the Technical School will serve the admir- The Boreiia
able purpose of supplying the Public Works, the Railway, the *^''"*^*^
Irrigation and the Forestry departments of the Government
with plenty of good men whose capacity will be as thorough
and whose enthusiasm in their profession will be as great and
whole hearted as that of the imported European.

After passing the Technical School we proceed along Mara-
dana Road for half a mile, when we pass over the railway at
the Junction Station where trains leave for the coast line and
the Kelani Valley as well as for up-country. Then we notice
on our left the Police Headquarters and Parade Ground, and
on the right the largest Mohammedan mosque in Colombo
(Plate 54). Other notable places are the Lady Havelock
Hospital for women and children (Plate 56) erected in 1896
by public subscription and named after Lady Havelock who
was the leading spirit in its establishment ; the headquarters
of the medical department presided over by Sir Allan Perry ;
the Roman Catholic Archbishop's house and Campbell Park,
into which the visitor might stroll for a few minutes before
taking a tram back again.

On the return journey we might look out more particularly
for quaint scenes in the bazaars through which we pass. Even
the sign boards over the little open stall will amuse us. ** A
clever astrologer *' (Plate 62), words of no small import to the The astrologer
people of this neighbourhood whose horoscopes are cast at
birth and whose every subsequent step in life depends on or
at least is influenced by the counsel of the astrologer. If a
journey has to be taken the time of starting must be fixed by
the astrologer. If a house is to be built the foundation stor*^
must be laid in accordance with his advice. He decides the -
auspicious moment for everything, even for the first shave, "*

whether it be of baby's head or young man's beard. The
ordinary no less than the important events of life are deter-
mined through the medium of astrology. However much of
an imposture we may consider this art to be, there is no
^oubt of its immense influence upon the Sinhalese people, and
that the less educated amongst them believe in it implicitly.

The open character of the native shops is universal ; they "^^ bazaar
vary only in the classes of goods they have for sale. Here
there are fruits, curry stuff's, dried fish, spices (Plates 58 and
59), market baskets and earthenware chatties. In another
(Plate 60) we notice baskets of fowls which here are kept
alive, and not as in the poulterers' shops of Europe. There
we observe a native medical stall (Plate 65) dignified by the
high-sounding title of ** Medical Hall." The tin-shop, with

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zed by Google

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to soo
Colombo

The native
bazaars

A pleasmnt
drive

the tinsmith at work. (Plate 63) is ubiquitous. The bootmaker
(Plate 61) is patiently sticking to his last, manufacturing the
latest creations in foot-wear upon the floor of his unfurnished
den. In other shops are seen all manner of vegetables and
fruits, native manufactures in brass ware, the gay comboys
or cloths worn by the people and various useful articles made
from the cocoanut and other palms. The customers are
almost as varied as the wares. The Sinhalese man of sienna
complexion, wearing his long hair gathered up into a knot
surmounted by a comb of tortoiseshell, is attired in garb
varying with caste, even the comb assuming different forms
in accordance Ivith social position. The Sinhalese women too
have a multitude of distinctions in dress and ornaments. All
indulge more or less in jewellery, consisting of necklaces and
bangles on both arms and ankles and rings on their fingers and
toes. . Many Tamil women wear but a single coloured cloth,
which they gracefully entwine about their limbs, leaving the
right side bare to the hip. The costumes of the native men
are even more diverse. The Moormen with shaven heads,
crowned with curiously plaited brimless hats ; the Parsees in
still more curious headgear; the Tamils with religious symbols
on their foreheads; the Afghans cont»-asting with the Tamils
in superabundance of gaudy attire — such are the races, and
such the dresses of the groups of people we see in the streets
of Colombo.

Our next business is a drive through pleasant places where
we shall see something of native life amidst the exquisite
scenery with which this most beautiful of tropical cities
entrances the traveller of aesthetic temperament. Our choice
in the matter of conveyance lies between the jinrickshaw and
the horse carriage, victoria or waggonette of somewhat in-
different quality to be hired in Colombo. I# our choice falls
upon the former, a rubber-tyred 'rickshaw should be chosen,
if the latter a waggonette is preferable as offering less obstruc-
tion to view. It is advisable to obtain either through the hotel
attendant, and to give him sufficient notice to enable him to
secure the best procurable. A licensed guide* may be of
service, blit he must be required to adhere to the route marked
out, and he should be allowed only to answer questions and
act where necessary as interpreter. We drive through Prince
and Queen Streets which are by this time familiar to us and
onwards to Galle Face. Upon leaving the Fort we notice
first the military barracks on our left, built on the foundation
of the old wall of the Dutch Fort and fronted by a spacious
parade ground. It will be seen that of the five handsome blocks
four are placed en dchelon so that each may receive the full
* For reguUtions respecting guides refer to Index.

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zed by Google

66. NATIVES WATCHING CRICKET ON QALLE FACE.

67 QALLE FACE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to see
Colombo

Galle Face

Calle Face

Hotel

benefit of the sea breeze. Nowhere in the East is Tommy
Atkins more luxuriously housed than here. The European
garrison of the colony has for many years comprised a regi-
ment of Infantry, Royal Garrison Artillery, Royal Engineers,
Army Service Corps, Ordnance and Royal Army Medical
Corps ; but with the advent of a new Government changes are
being effected, and no definite information that can be given
here is likely to remain for long correct. The European
regiment of Infantry has already been removed.

Galle Face is an open lawn about one mile in length and
three hundred yards wide, flanked on one side by the sea and
the other by the lake. It is controlled by the military
authority; but used by the public as a recreation ground for
football, cricket, hockey and other games. Three roads pass
through it, the Esplanade, a perfectly smooth carriage drive
and promenade by the sea ; a similar drive by the lake ; and
a cent-ral road for commercial traffic. On the lake side are
an old Dutch military cemetery with some interesting monu-
ments, the Garrison Artillery Mess and the Military Hospital;
an object of greater prominence towards the southern end is
the Colombo Club. Adjoining this is the Sports Club Pavilion
and a squash racquet court. Our illustration (Plate 69) depicts
the Sports Club cricket ground. A reliable and astonishingly
good wicket is always obtainable here by the use of a strip
of coir matting. Cricket in Ceylon is a perennial game and
has indeed become the national game of the country, the
Ceylonese being remarkably proficient in it. Even the coolies
irtdulge in this pastime and the stranger will be amused to
see them, innocent of clothing with the slightest exception,
and wielding extemporised and primitive implements.

At the extreme southern end of the Galle Face Esplanade
and in close proximity to the sea stands the luxurious Galle
Face Hotel (Plate 70). In many respects this fine hostelry is
unequalled in the East. It enjoys the advantage of a site as
perfect as could be found, bearing in mind the great desidera-
tum of sea breeze. Its hall, verandahs, dining-room, ballroom,
drawing-room, billiard-rooms and reading-rooms are palatial,
while the supreme attraction to many is an excellent and
spacious sea-water swimming-bath. Whether we are staying
at this hotel or not we ought at least to explore it and make
our way by means of the electric lift to the top floor in order
to enjoy the fine panoramic view from the front windows. If
we are photographers we must not fail to avail ourselves of
the opportunity presented here. Our plates (Nos. 67 and 69)
give some idea of the landscape, which is generally coupled
with beautiful cloud effects for which Ceylon is altogether
famous. Indeed Ceylon is the amateur photographer's paradise ;

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ea THE MILITARY BARRACKS.

60. THE SPORTS CLUB CRICKET GROUND.

H*^

^Sk».*rf:?*r;U^-rf

—ii

70. QALLE FACE HOTEL

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TU »LAVE iBLANCk^

Ti. UHION PtACC

priflk

i*^.

Jk.

74. DMCfFUfS.

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

at every turn the eye ' is met by a fresh picture, and a new How to »ee
subject is presented to the mind every moment. Coom

Those who, like the author, were acquainted with Ceylon
upwards of thirty years ago can best appreciate the change
which has taken place in its hotel accommodation. The Galle
Face Hotel of those days was a mere shanty compared to its
present successor. Its bedrooms were merely divisions marked
off by canvas screens. The remarks of occupants of several
rooms on either side of one could be distinctly heard.

Now the guests in the i8o bedrooms are fanned gently
to slumber by electric fans without any risk of disturbance from
their neighbours. Notwithstanding that Colombo now has
three palatial hotels an overflow of guests has frequently to
be dealt with, and the roomy corridors of the Galle Face Hotel
may occasionally be seen littered with improvised beds. At
such times the cosmopolitan character of the visitors brought
thither by ships from various countries provides in itself a
good deal of interest and amusement. All seem bent on enjoy-
ment; even the warm temperature does not app>ear to relax
their energies, for Terpsichore is worshipped in the East, and
the ample ballroom, provided with a good band, is well
patronised until a late hour.

We now cross over the central road, avoiding the turn to The drive
Kolupitiya on the east side of the hotel, and pass by Christ ^*^^^^^
Church of the Church Missionary Society, and the Masorric
Temple, both of which are visible in plate 69. The building
on the lake promontory observable in our plate is the married
quarters of the military barracks.

We cross a bridge, from which our view (Plate 71) is taken, ^lave island
into Slave Island, an unpleasant name given to this locality
by the Dutch who used it as a prison for their State slaves.
The coast railway line is now crossed, and we proceed along
Union Place for about half a mile. This street is illustrated by
our plate ^72, The first turning to the left brings us immediately
to the pretty lakeside views (Plates 73 and 74). Attention
at this spot is divided between the charming landscape and
the operations of the dhobies upon the banks in the foreground.
Groups of bronze-tinted figures are waist-deep in the water,
engaged in the destructive occupation of cleansing linen by
beating it upon the rocks. There is no operation so effectual
or from the dhoby's point of view so economical; for not even
the expense of soap is incurred in bleaching one's linen, while
the use of the public lake in place of the washing tub involves
no rent. This method, however, has its drawback, for it is
prosecuted at the expense of much wear and tear.

Across the lake at this point is St. Joseph's College, an
establishment for the higher education of Roman Catholic

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to »
Colombo

The lake

Park Street

boys. It has five towers and in general appearance somewhat
resembles an Italian palace. It is erected on one of the most
charming sites conceivable, environed with beautiful palms
and flowering trees and overlooking the finest part of the
extensive lake of Colombo. A large and ornate hall, accom-
modating 1,200 persons and fitted with a stage for entertain-
ments, is amongst many attractive features of the interior.
The grounds, of about ten acres, provide excellent accommoda-
tion for cricket, football and every pastime.

Turning to the left we now drive down Vauxhall Road for
a quarter of a mile and then' turn sharply to the left, crossing
Union Place and making our way beneath an avenue of trees
to another picturesque stretch of the lake (Plate 80). This
road leads us past the large engineering works and stores of
the Commercial Company and the residence of the General in
command of the troops (Plate 76). At this point are several
charming pictures affording an opportunity not to be missed
by the amateur photographer (Plates '^'^ and 78). This fresh-
water lake is one of the most charming features of Colombo.
Its ramifications are so many that one is constantl}' coming
across pretty nooks and corners quite unexpectedly, each fresh
view presenting a wealth of foliage luxuriant beyond descrip-
tion. Palms in great variety intermingle with the gorgeous
mass of scarlet flamboyant blossoms, the lovely lemon-yellow
.lettuce tree, the ever-graceful bamboo, the crimson blooms
of the dark hibiscus, contrasting with the rich green of the
areca, date and palmyra palms, the huge waving leaves of the
plantain, floWering trees and shrubs of every description of
tropical foliage, tne whole forming to the rippling water a
border of unrivalled beauty and unfailing interest.

We now leave the lake to explore the roads and houses of
residential Cotombo, which extends for about four square miles
to the south of the lake and is centred by the Victoria Park.
As we proceed by way of Park Street our attention is arrested
by a banyan tree (Ficus indica) which is of considerable interest
to those who have never before seen one (Plate 81). This
specimen serves the useful purpose of shade to the native
vendors of betel, sweetmeats and other little confections for
passers-by. It is difiicuft for anyone who has not seen a
batiyan tree to realise that all the stems and branches visible
in oar illustration are parts of one tree. As the branches grow
and become too weighty for the parent stem they throw down
pendent aerial roots which strike the ground and become
themselves supporting stems for the immense branches. Here
the shoots have reached the ground, taken root and grown
into large new stems, so completely enveloping the original
trunk as to produce the appearance of a miniature forest.

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79. ST. JOSEPH'S COLLEGE.

80. THE PALM-FRINGED BANKS OF THE LAKE.

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SI. «AjNVAN truu

VICTOniA PARiC,

BT. EOlNBUnOH eilfSGCNT.

&4, eiRlNlWCSA^

KHr^^t^

.MM

wr •

69. THE QAHDCN CCUB.

e& MUSEUM,

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The circumference of some single trees, wjiich thus appear How to see
to the eye as a whole grove, extenxls to several hundred feet. ^^'^^'^^
There are no really fine specimens in. Colombo; but good ones
are to be seen in various parts of Ceylon, notably at Trin-
comale, where one may be seen with hundreds of stems and
capable of sheltering a thousand people. Illustrations of this
grand old tree may be found in the third part of this work.

About a hundred yards beyond the banyan tree in Park victoria Park
Street we enter the Victoria Park, which is an ornamental
recreation ground laid out with gardens, band stand and
promenade, golf links, tennis courts, a galloping course for
riders and drcular carriage drive. The whole is bounded by
bungalows with their picturesque grounds. By turning to
the right we drive along the road shown in plate 82, and
continuing always to the left we pass over the ground visible
in plate 83. On our right is the beautiful bungalow Siriniwcsa
(Plate 84), occupied by the Imperial German Consul. Opposite
this is the Colombo Garden Club (Plate 85) with its large
number of lawn-tennis courts and its charming pavilion. The

flombo Museum next comes into view. The bronze statue The Afuseum
on the lawn facing the entrance is that of Sir William Gregory,
one of Ceylon's most successful Governors, who ruled the
colony from 1872 to 1877, during which period the museum
was erected. The scientific and educational value of this
institution is recognised and appreciated greatly by a large
portion of the community; while it serves a still larger class
as a show place always interesting and attractive. In the
central hall are brasses and ivory. The Ceylon products room
contains all manner of things peculiar to the colony : jewellery,
coins, models of various operations, including pearl fishing,
masks of devil dancers, tom-toms in great variety, the sump-
tuously enshrined and devoutly worshipped Buddha's tooth,
and ethnological models in great ^variety displaying many
curious native costumes. In the archajological rooms are to
be seen a highly interesting collection of works of art from
the ancient ruined cities. The natural history 'galleries on
the upper floors are filled with fine specimens of indigenous
birds, beasts and fishes. The many curiosities of the insect '
world will surprise the stranger; for Ceylon abounds in insect
life. There are also galleries containing rocks, minerals and
gems. The fish in the eastern gallery are specially interesting
and should be noticed by every visitor.

Other objects of interest near the circular drive are the
George Wall Fountain (Plate 88) and the picturesque Moham-
medan mosque (Plate 89). This part of Colombo, including
the Victoria Park and extending west and south of it in a
whole series of cross roads and crescents, is popularly known

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The book of ceylon.

How to see
Colombo

Tht Gardens

Eye Hospital

as the Cinnamon Gardens from the circumstance that it was
in the time of the Dutch occupation of Colombo one of
their chief reserves under cultivation of that precious spice.
But for the last half-century the bushes have been fast dis-
appearing in favour of the beautiful bungalows and gardens
which make the locality one of the most charming residential
spots conceivable, the envy and admiration of visitors from
the southern colonies. Before we leave the Victoria Park we
shall perhaps feel inclined to stroll through the gardens
(Plate 102), to which we shall find several convenient entrances.
Here we may wander under the shade of palms and figs or
rest beneath clumps of graceful bamboo surrounded by blos-
soms and perfumes of the most enchanting kind. The huge
purple bells of the thunbergia creep over the archways, and
gorgeous passionflowers, orchids, pitcher plants, bright-leaved
caladiums and multitudes of other tropical plants everywhere
flourish and abound. Both here and in the neighbouring
grounds of the museum will be noticed the curious fan-shaped
traveller's tree (Urania speciosa) often wrongly described as
a palm. Its long broad leaves collect water, which filters into
the close-set sheaths at the base of the leaves, whence by
simply piercing them with a knife the traveller can draw
streams of pure water.

The surface of the soil in the Cinnamon Gardens consists
of white sand, beneath which is a stratum of nourishing soil.
It is this subsoil which supports the roots of the plants, and
produces such luxuriance of vegetation ; the traveller, however,
is often much surprised and puzzled to see such abundance of
magnificent trees and plants apparently nourished only by
white sand.

The Victoria Memorial Eye Hospital (Plate 90) will not
escape notice. Its striking appearance in garb of yellow and
terra-cotta will arrest the attention of the stranger, who will
for a moment be struck with the novelty of the design, which
is the work of Mr. E. Skinner, whose art is highly appreciated
in Ceylon. This beneficent institution is the memorial of the
people of Ceylon to the memory of the late Queen Victoria
whom they always held in the highest reverence and affection
and whose death brought together in common sorrow the most
remarkable gathering of people of numerous nationalities and
creeds ever witnessed in Ceylon, when the sad event was
announced by Sir West Ridgeway to the assembled twenty
thousand or more who reverently made their way to Galle
Face to hear His Excellency's touching panegyric. Lady
Ridgeway, who was much beloved in Ceylon, was the author
of the proposal that this hospital should be founded as the
people's memorial; the project was warmly taken up at once

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91. THE PRINCE'S CLUB.

92. GREGORYS RADIENT.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Roads of the

Cinnamon

Gardens

and especially approved of by Sir Allan Perry and the whole How to see
medical department over which he presides. The Grenier Coi«»*»o
Memorial Eye and Ear Infirmary erected by subscription in
memory of the late Sir Samuel Grenier, Attorney-General,
forms a department of this hospital.

Amongst the other fine buildings of this vicinity is the
Prince's Club (Plate 91), a lavishly appointed European institu-
tion and a great joy to its members who live in the neigh-
bourhood.

The greatest charm to many a visitor is the drive, which
can be extended to ten miles or so, along, the many parallel
roads, cross roads and crescents to the west and south of the
Victoria Park. These roads are« named to commemorate the
various British Governors : the Earl . of Guildford, Sir Robert
Brownrigg, Sir Edward Barnes, Sir Robert Wilmot Horton,
the Right Hon. Stewart Mackenzie, Sir Henry Ward, Sir
Charles MacCarthy, Lord Rosmead, Sir William Gregory, Sir
James Longden and Sir Arthur. Havelock. If we take them
in order from the Prince's Cliab we drive along Guildford
Crescent, turn at Gregory's Radient, then take the cross road
at the end and return to the Circular Drive by way of Horton
Place. Next down Barnes Place and back again by Rosmead
Place and so on. A glance at our map will be a sufficient
guide. The traveller will be greatly impressed by the excel-
lent condition of the roads ; not only are they as smooth as
the proverbial billiard table, but their colour so restful to the
eye is in charming contrast to the irrepressible greenery by
which they are bordered on every hand.

Although the cinnamon bushes which once were the pre-
dominant feature of the district have for the most part given
way to the garden compounds of bungalows^, the stranget will
not fail to see many still flourishing, and will- probably gather
a branch which, freshly broken, will emit the pleasant odour
of the spice.

Our plates 92 and 112 faithfully depict the character of these Bungalows
roads which will afford the visitor a botanical feast. The houses,
so different from those of colder countries, quite innocent of
dirty chimney stacks and fire grates, are quite in accord with
the charm of their surroundings. Each residence nestles in
a paradise of palms and flowering shrubs of infinite variety,
gorgeous crotons and creepers innumerable, the latter over-
growing roofs and pillars and climbing the neighbouring trees,
which they bespangle with their lovely blossoms. Words
cannot describe these places nor can the best of pictures which
modern art can produce give the colour,, the glamour and 'the
atmosphere which help to create the sensation which makes
the traveller feel how sweet and pleasant it . must be to live

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON.

Httw to see
Colombo

Bungalows

Domestic
Economy

Birds

in this paradise of warmth and loveliness; how perfect these
bungalows with their pretty compounds seem for a life of
dolce far niente. Can this be the same place of which Tennent
sixty years ago wrote, ** The present aspect of the Cinnamon
Gardens produces a feeling of disappointment and melan-.
choly '*? At that time the district was forsaken and neglected.
In Europe a beautiful landscape is often shorn of its loveli-
ness by the growth of a town ; but in Ceylon, with its wealth
of rapidly growing flora of every tropical species, the growth
of a residential settlement transforms the luxuriant jungle into
the mpre beautiful avenues and cultivated gardens. Moreover,
the same improving influence is extended to the reduction of
insect pests that are wont to be very troublesome in uncul-
tivated places. We do not now at night light fires on the
lawn to attract flies from the interior of the bungalow, nor
are mosquitoes in dread profusion and beyond control.

The domestic economy of the European resident is some-
what expensive; but for his money he gets more luxury than
for the same amount could be obtained in England. The
servants for a small family occupying one of the bungalows
which, we illustrate would average twelve in number : the appoo
or butler, the cook and his mate, the kitchen cooly, the bed-
room and dressing boy, the. house cooly, the ayah, the punka
cooly, the gardener, the horse-keeper or chauffeur and the
dog boy. The sum of wages will amount to about. ;i^io a
month, the servants providing their own food. The rent of
the bungalow will be about ;i^i3. Housekeeping expenses
depend upon so many circumstances that we need only say
on the whole the cost of food is about the same as in England.
The normal home life of the European differs greatly from the
habits of the West. He rises with the sun, the time of whose
api>earance throughout the year varies only between half-past
five and six o'clock. Recreation precedes business and takes
the form of riding, tennis, golf and the prosecution of various
hobbies and pursuits, such as botanical or natural history
studies, for which such unrivalled facilities are afforded. The
middle hours of the day are given to indoor business and the
evening again to recreations, which include hockey, football
and cricket. The conditions are delightful enough, but being
perennial become monotonous. There are no seasons; no
change of scene or temperature; and it is just this ** too much
of a good thing " that makes the European long for a change
to the Old Country, where the opposite conditions soon rekindle
his taste for the sunnier clime, and hearing ** the East
a-callin* '* he obeys with alacrity.

Whilst driving through the Cinnamon Gardens many
prettily coloured birds are met with, and amongst the hobbies

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93-100. BUNGALOWS OF COLOMBO.

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101. A MODERN BUNGALOW.

102. THE GARDENS, VICTORIA PARK, j by VjUUV IC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 69

of tl^e residents few are more fascinating than that of the How to m
amateur ornithologist, or as he calls himself '* the bird ^^•■'•>®
watcher.'' The feathered denizens are interesting to many The birds
travellers, and with a view to answering their frequent ques-
tion ** What bird was that? '' the following notes are here
introduced, and printed in smaller type so that those who
take no interest in birds can easily pass them over.*

One of the commonest birds is perhaps the Madras Bulbul {Mo/pasUs
hamorrhous). It associates in pairs, and can be recognised by the black
tuft of feathers on its head (from which it takes its Sinhalese name,
" Konde Kurulla," Konde meaning chignon, and Kurulla bird), its
smoky-brown body, and the red under-tail coverts. It has a curious
medley of notes, which are not by any means unmusical, but they are so
precipitately uttered that one wonders at first if the bird really meant it !
The White-browed Bush Bulbul (Pycnonotus luieolus), or Cinnamon
Thrush, has a similar set of notes, only more varied and prolonged.
This thrush is, however, not seen "very much, owing to its preference for
dense trees, its rapid flight, and its dark olive-brown colour. It has a
conspicuous white eyebrow, as its name denotes, and one cannot go very
far without hearing its note.

Quite a different tune has the little lora (Tiphia zeylanica). His pretty,
clear, and flute-like notes are often heard. He is a dandy little fellow in
his habits and dress of yellow and black, the latter colour being replaced
by green in his mate, and he may often be seen in a variety of positions
searching for insects and grubs in the trees.

Another small bird — the smallest we have, but, for all that, responsible
for the spread of several species of mistletoe, by which many valuable
fruit trees are ruined — may only make its appearance known by its sharp
note, which sounds something like *'tchik, tchik." It is an ashy-olive-
coloured bird with lighter under-parts, and is known as Tickell's Flower-
pecker (Dicceum erythrorJiynchus).

We then come to the sunbirds, which from their plumage command
attention. There are three very much alike at first sight : Loten's Sun-
bird {Arachnechihra lotenia)^ named after a Dutch Governor of Ceylon
who first recorded it, which is larger than the next two and has a bright
plumage of metallic green glossed with lilac,' and brown wings. The
second is the Purple Sunbird (A. asiatica), which is similar in plumage,
but is smaller. There can be no difficulty in distinguishing between these
two, as the larger bird has a proportionately larger and more curved beak.
The third of these beautiful creatures is the Ceylonese Sunbird (A.
ceylanica)y which is about the same in size and plumage as A. asiatica,
but it has a yellow breast and under-parts. The females in all three cases
are clad in a sombre greenish-brown. All three have long curved beaks,
that in Loten's Sunbird being the longest, which nature has provided for
. the extraction of nectar from the flowers. There are few more beautiful
sights than one of the birds " humming " over the topmost flowers of the
Suriah-trees when seen through a pair of powerful glasses.

The low-country WTiiteye [Zosterofs ceylonensis) is a small and pretty
bird, which can be recognised by the white patch of feathers round the
eye. It is olive-green in colour, with yellowish under-parts. THis bird
has a wide range on the adjoining continent. A slightly different bird
(Z. ceylonensis) is very frequently seen in the gardens in Nuwara'Eliya,
and is peculiar to Ceylon.

♦ The author is indebted for the notes on birds in this volume to his nephew,
Mr. Walter Ashby Cave.

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70 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

H«w to a%e Amongst the topmost branches of the taller trees you may see a bird

Colombo about the size of a sparrow, with blackish-grey upper-parts and a fine red'

breast; it is the little Minivet {Pertcrocoius feregrinus). He is usually

The btrds accompanied by four or five' females, all arrayed in much more sombre

dress. He is a migratory bird, and spends the winter months with us.

The Green Bee-eater [Merops viridis) is a fairly common bird, espe-
cially in the dry zone, and may often be seen sitting on the telegraph
wires or on a conspicuous branch, preferably a bare one. It has the two
middle feathers in its tail longer than the others, a curved beak, and
pretty, bright- green plumage. You will be better able to distinguish him
by the graceful evolutions he makes in catching insects. He darts out
from his perch, sails in the most graceful of curves, secures his prey,
and then returns to his i>erch. There is a similar migratory bird which
is often seen, the Blue-tailed Bee-eater {Merofs fhillifpinus)^ but he is
much larger, and has the central tail feathers prolonged like the other.
His habits are similar to the smaller bird, and his plumage is a bronze
green.

Mention must next be made of the Common Drongo {Dicrurus ater)^
or King Crow, for his flight is like that of the Bee-eaters, but even more
graceful. It is worth stopping to watch a party of two or three Drongos
jdarting out after insects. They, too, perform in the most wonderful way
in flight, turning this way and that in an extraordinary manner. In
appearance the King Crow is a glossy black all over, about the size of a
starling, and has a forked tail. Tlrere is another bird very much like
him, except for whitish under-parts — the White-bellied Drongo {Dicrurus
carules€ens)y an indigenous species. Both bird« have similar habits.
The Ceylon Black Drongo (Dtssemurus cophorhinus)y although seen at
times, cannot be classed as a common bird. It is chiefly confined to the
wet forests of the western half of Ceylon, replacing the large Racquet-
tailed Drongo {Dtssemurus faradiseus) of the dry country.

One of the noisiest of birds is the Indian Koel {Eudynamys konoraia),
whose note, " Ku-il," or " Who-be-you ? " is uttered during the nesting
season, which lasts from March until July. The Koel is a Cuckoo, and
h^s the characteristic flight; were it not for this, and its longer tail, it
would be diflicult to distinguish, as its plumage is black, like that of the
crow. The hen bird is, however, different, having a dress of mottled
brown and white. Like the common Cuckoo, the Koel alters his note in
May and June, but in a different -way. Beginning on the usual note, he
gradually goes up a scale until he finally reaches a very high and almost
.unformable note. It is unlike Cuculus canorus in its selection of a nest
for the deposition of its eggs, for it prefers the nest of the crow to those
of smaller birds, probably because of the striking likeness of the eggs of
both species.

We have probably met with, ere this, a very dowdy, common -looking
bird feeding with several others of his species at the side of the road.
His plumage is a dusty-brown colour, his beak and legs a pale yellow,
making up a somewhat unattractive specimen. We have, however, said
the worst about him, Ifor whatever we may add must be to his credit. He
is known as the Common Babbler [Argya caudatd), and is justified in his
name, for he and his party do a vast amount of babbling. You will
generally see six or seven together, and from this they get one of their
many other names — the Seven Brothers. He is also known as the Dust
or Dirt Bird, but he honestly does not deserve the epithet, for although
his appearance is against him he is a happy fellow, most sociable and
amiable to his friends, sharing his finds with them, and keeping on good
terms generally. WTien disturbed he will fly away very indolently to a
tree close by, followed by his mates one after the other, and then will
ensue such a volume of talk as to the reason of the disturbance.

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*^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l

ii^i

- -A

^HP^^'*

103. NORTON PLACC

i < . iO«. MORTON PLACf.

1
'PS?;.

>y5&C

iOS. OntOORY'S RAOICNT.

IOa» OENCRAL H08PITAU

?*'^.i.^

107. KOCH MEMORIAL TOWER.

lOe. EUROPEAN WARDS. ^

KMH FLOWER ROAO.

no. FLOWER ROAD. ^

Ttr ADAMS PEAK F^QM THE COLOMBO GOLF LINKa

nz NORTON PLACE.

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le I

The birds

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 73

If you hear a noise of someone or something which seems to be in the How to see
wor^t of tempers, you may be sure the sound emanates from the Brown Colombo
Shrike (^Lanius crisiatus). It is easy to trace him, for he gives vent to
his feelings, on some conspicuous bough, by uttering a harsh rattling note
and moving his tail about much in the same way as a cat does when angry.
In appearance he is a miniature hawk, his plumage is a soft reddish
brown, and his dark eyebrow very conspicuous. The family is, of course,
one of the butcher-birds, and the querulous note is one of the first we
hear of the migrants which come to us in October for the winter.

With a harsh rasping scream, a bird of most exquisite plumage will
wing his way across an open space. You cannot mistake him ; he is the
White-breasted Kingfisher {Halcyon smyrnensts), and in his dress he
excels in the beauty of his colouring all the leathered tribe that we shall
meet with in this short drive. You may now hear a plaintive little cry,
starting on a high note and running down a scale; the Kingfisher is
perched on the topmost bough of some tall tree, and it is only then that
we can see and appreciate his glorious plumage. His back is a gorgeous
shining blue, the under-parts a dark chestnut; his waistcoat is always
pure white, and his long beak a very dark crimson. The White-breasted
Kingfisher is a very common bird, being well distributed over the whole
of the low country.

A kindred species, but smaller, is the little Indian Kingfisher {Alcedo
isfida)\ which is almost as beautiful in plumage, but lacks the white
breast. Dr. Bowdler Sharpe considers the Indian bird to be inseparable
irom the well-known British species. It is not, however, a very common
bird, except in the interior of the country and perhaps near the quieter
waters of the lake, but it deserves mention.

Sometimes the note seems far away, and at others it sounds quite close,
a monotonous " wok- wok -wok," repeated for long spells, and then altered
to double-quick time, as though the bird were impatient at something. .
When once it has been suggested that it is the Coppersmith, or Crimson-
breasted Barbet (Xantholoema hamatocefhala), the sound cannot be mis-
taken, for the note is exactly an imitation of a man hammering a copper
vessel. In its way the Coppersmith is no mean ventriloquist, for as.it
utters its note it moves its head from side to side, and the sound seems
to come from several directions. If a bird is observed, one cannot say
positively that the note is being uttered by it# for the " wqk-wok "
generally seems to come from another tree. That, however,- is a trick of
the Coppersmith. It is a difficult bird to see, for its plumage is green*,
like the foliage, but its head and breast are smothered in colours, like a
painter's palette — yellow, red, blue, and crimson are all mixed up in a
wonderful way.

On a hot day, driviag through the lesser populated outskirts of
Colombo, one cannot but be struck by the monotonous repetition of. a note
that sounds like " koturr, koturr, koturr," steadily repeated. This is the
cry of the orange-headed Green Barbet (Cyanofs flavifrons). So per-
fectly does the colouring of this handsome bird assimilate with its leafy
environment that it is not an easy matter to "spot" this moderately large
bird, that, from the monotony of its note, has been included among many
of our " brain-fever birds."

Like the last, but a much larger and coarsely-coloured bird, is the
common Indian Green Barbet {Thereiceryx zilonicus)^ generally distri-
buted in the low country of Ceylon. It is usually, to be found in numbers
when the banyan trees are in fruit, and can be recognised without difficulty
by its brown-speckled head and neck, and large, pale orange-coloured bill.

One of the most beautiful birds we have in the Cinnamon Gardens is
the Black-headed Oriole [Oriolus melanocephalus)^ or Mango Bird, as
his plumage resembles the colour of that particular fruit. He wears a

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74 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to see dress of beautiful yellow and black ; you cannot mistake him, only you

Colombo should always be on the look-out for the black head, as there is another

The birds Species, very rare in Colombo, we believe, which has a golden-yellow

head. The Orioles are great fruit-eaters, and are more often seen in

March or April when the fruit season commences.

Of the Munias we can really only put one on our list of common birds
of Colombo ; although perhaps others may be seen, I have looked in vain
for them. The Spotted Munia (Uroloncha functulata) is the one most
often seen ; it is a little bird, slightly smaller than a sparrow, and of the
same family. The upper-parts of the plumage are dull chocolate in
colour, and the under -parts white with brownish spots forming transverse
bars. The Munias are the silliest birds imaginable. You may see one
on the ground amongst some dead rushes ; he picks up one about six times
his own size, and flies with it in a bee-line to his nest, which may be in
course of construction. Anyone can find a Munia's nest ; it is a clumsy
affair, put together in a flimsy way, and big enough to hold several
families, which, indeed, some of them often do.

The Indian Roller {Coracias indica) scarcely deserves mention here,
but it may be seen, and so perhaps a short description is necessary. In
size and appearance it resembles the jay, but the markings are more
varied. Dark and light blues will be noticed in vivid contrast, whilst
'the under-parts are a light chestnut. He is also known as '' the smoke
bird," as he is said to be often attracted to the vicinity of a fire.

The Indian Pitta (Pifta brachyura) deserves mention, but it is not a
common bird. Its other name is the Painted Thrush, on account of the
variety of beautiful colours in its plumage. The wings are black, with
greenish and turquoise blue and a white band, the chin and throat white,
the upper-parts green " washed with brown," there is turquoise blue in
the tail, whilst the under-parts are fawn. The under-tail coverts are
scarlet. It is a migratory bird, and arrives in considerable numbers, but
being shy and possessed of weak powers of flight, it seeks the denser
shrubs and trees, and is therefore not often seen, although its note is
sometimes heard. Its native name of *' Avichchia" is taken from its cry,
which is usually heard at about sunset or just at dusk.

Of the Flycatchers we may possibly see two kinds. The commonest
is the little Southern Brown Flycatcher [Alseonax latirostris), which is
merely a small brown bird, and cannot be described more fully. You will
probably notice it perched on a twig of some tall tree, but you cannot
tell that it is a Flycatcher until you have noticed it darting out for insects
and returning to its perch. The other bird is the Paradise Flycatcher
{Terfsifhone faradisi). It is about the size of a lark ; the head is metallic
bluish-black, with a tuft of feathers, and in the first year the male is
dressed in rich chestnut. As time goes on, the lateral tail feathers begin
to lengthen until they reach a great length, and are cast after a ^w
months. In the fourth year the plumage, with the exception of the head,
changes completely to white, the long tail feathers being assumed again.
The native name for the Paradise Flycatcher means Cotton Thief, for
the long feathers streaming out behind as it flies give an idea of cotton
being carried.

As we drive round the race-course we can generally be sure of seeing
the Madras Bush Lark {Mirafra aj^nis). It is just a lark, 1)ut may be
distinguished by its pretty habit of throwing itself up into the air to a
height of about thirty feet and descending with its wings arched. This
performance is repeated time after time, as the lark gradually makes its
way down the course. Here, too, companies of swallows may be seen
sitting on the wires of the starting-gates, or flying about in the character-
istic way over the grass. During the winter of 1906-7 a flock of seven
Black-sided Lapwings {Chettusia gregaria) took up its quarters on the

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1ia THE RIDGEWAY GOLF LINKS.

114. THE RIDGEWAY GOLF LINKS.

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115. THE HAVELOCK RACE-COURSE.

116. THE GRAND STAND.

iffW

B^m^iill

HHI

^^^^^^^H

^^^^^^

digitized i:
117. THE COLOMBO GOLF CLUB PAVILION.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON ^^

race-course, and was frequently seen, but it is by no means common here. How to soe
The fact, however, is worthy of record. .. Colombo

The Common Grass or Rufous Fan-tail Warbler (Cisticola cursitans)
frequents the grass fields all round "Colombo, and is equally common at
Nuwara Eliya. It is another small brown bird distinguished by its
spasmodic flight, which consists of series of jerks, during each one of
which it utters a sharp *' tchik."

The Havelock Race-course, like so many other things in The Racecourse
Ceylon, is second to none in the East. Its position to the
south of the Victoria Park will be seen in our map. Here the
Colombo Turf Club has its regular race meetings. Gymkhanas
and other sports are also held here at various intervals under
the auspices of the Polo Club, whose ground is the open space
inside the course. Plate 1 16 depicts the grand stand and lawn
enclosure. For many years a race-course was included in the
manifold uses to which Galle Face was applied, when the
Colombo Club served as a grand stand. The present improved
arrangements are due to the initiative of Captain Channer, R.'N.

The Ridgeway Golf Links are reached by driving to the The Golf unks
end of Horton Place. The course is extensive, complete and
well laid out. The greens will be found very, fast but generally
excellent. Some idea of the pavilion and the course will be'
gathered from plates 113, 114 and 117. The game is im-
mensely popular in Colombo, and play is good. The member-
ship of the club exceeds three hundred. Visitors are welcome
and their verdict usually is that golf is a very pleasant game
to play in the tropics.

Various medical institutions are situated in the neighbour- Hospitals
hood of the Cinnamon Gardens, including the General Hospital
(Plates 106 and 108) occupying eleven acres of ground. There
are thoroughly well equipped wards for travellers (Plate 108)
who may arrive sick or who may become ill during their
sojourn in Ceylon ; the fees being fourteen shillings entrance
fee and ten shillings per day. Other wards offer suitable
accommodation for all classes, the fees for paying patients
being very moderate. The Ceylon Medical College opposite
is carried on in accordance with the Medical Acts of Great
Britain and its licentiates are at liberty to practise throughout
the United Kingdom.

There are several interesting routes by which we may
return to the Fort and pur map should be consulted. If after
our wanderings we happen to be near the race-course >ye shall
drive down Race-course Avenue and return to Galle Face or
the Fort by way of Flower Road (Plates 109 and no), Green
Path (Plate 120) or Turret Road (Plate 118) and Kollupitiya.
About two hundred yards before we arrive upon the Kollu-
pitiya Road, at a short distance on our right, are the Church

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to soe
Colombo

Mutwall

of Su Michael and All Angels, and the Matthew Memorial
Hall, erected to the memory of the Venerable Walter E.
Matthew, Archdeacon of Colombo, who died in 1889 (Plates
119 and 121). In this neighbourhood and indeed during the
whole of our drive homewards many beautiful trees will claim
our attention in addition to the palm. Particularly noticeable
are the breadfruit, the cotton, the mango, the almond, the
vanilla, the jak and the tamarind. As we near KoUupitiya the
merry note of the busy little Indian tailor-bird (Orthotomus
sutorius) is heard.

" Tow- whit-tow- whit," he calls to his mate, who follows him from
tree to tree in search of insects. The Tailor Bird belongs to the warbler
class ; it is a difficult bird to get a sight of, on account of its olive-green
plumage, its small size, and its partiality to thick bushes. His head is
chestnut, and if you see him uttering his note you cannot help but notice
two black patches on his throat, which expand to a considerable extent.
He has a fairly long tail, which is lacking in his mate ; his legs are long,
and altogether he strikes one as being the most worktnanlike little fellow,
as indeed he is. The wonderful nests, made of leaves stitched together
with thread, and comfortably lined, require a lot of finding. They are
marvellous structures, but we have no space or time to go into further
details.

The Magpie Robin (Cofsychus salauris) is a conspicuous bird which is
often mat with along the road. He is clad in black and white, the mark-
ings being very similar to those of the magpie; the hen, however, has a
slaty-coloured breast instead of black. In its habits it is much like the
robin, but is larger in size. Possessing a very sweet voice, it may often
be seen sitting on a conspicuous branch pouring forth a number of clear-
toned and harmonious notes, which, however, do not amount to a song.
Its sociable habits and frequent presence in all gardens make it a delight-
ful pet. A near relative to the Magpie Robin is the Ceylon or Black Robin
{T'hantnobia ftilicaia)y"which resembles the robin more in size than does
the black-and-white bird. The plumage of the Ceylon Robin is very
simple, the cock being jet black, with chestnut-coloured under-tail coverts
and a white bar on the wing, which, however, only appears in flight. The
hen bird is dressed in sombre rusty brown; one notices a very marked
difference between them when a pair is seen together, as they often are.
You will, however, never notice it perching on a tree; it seems to be
against its caste, but wherever there is a wall or any brickwork you will
see him jerking his tail right back to his neck, and uttering his lively
chirping note. He is a friendly bird, a cheery companion, and quite
fearless of man.

A drive round the suburb of Mutwall, to the north of the
Fort, would make our acquaintance with Colombo nearly
complete, and is to be recommended in case of this being our
first experience of a tropical city. Our way is through Main
Street (Plate 122) and the Pettah (Plate 126), where we shall
again be interested in the quaint scenes of native daily life
and occupation. We pass the Dutch Belfry, the Town Hall
and the Market Place and turn into Wolfendahl Street which
bears to the right and leads direct to a most interesting
remnant of the Dutch occupation, a massive Church in Doric

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122. THE PETTAH.

123. BOUTIQUE.

124. THE PETTAH.

I2S. THE PETTAK

lao. "LET YOUR EYES HAVE A FEAST."

137. CATHEOMAL OF SANTA LUOIA.

128. CATHEDRAL OF ST. THOMAS.

I2S. CHILDAEN AT MUTWALL.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

style, built by the Dutch in 1749. The drive may now be How to see
continued in a north-easterly direction to the Roman Catholic Coiopibo
Cathedral of Santa Lucia (Plate 127) which is the finest building
in Colombo. Its cupola, which is not visible in our plate, but
is visible at greater distance, is 170 feet high. The nave is
capable of accommodating six thousand persons. In a north-
westerly direction another half-mile brings us to St. Thomas' st, Thomas'
College (Plate 128), one of the leading educational institutions ° *^*
of the colony, founded by Bishop Chapman, first Anglican
Bishop of Colombo in 1851. Here the model of an English
public school, such as Dulwich, ;is followed as far as prac-
ticable ; the curriculum and the sports are^ practically the same.
The grounds are picturesque and contain some of the finest
banyan trees in Colombo. The lawn, which is extensive, and
serves for cricket and other sports, is surrounded by the school-
rooms, lecture rooms, masters' houses, dormitories, a handsome
library hung with portraits of past Wardens, a dining-hall,
and the Warden's house, all separately located; while the
Anglican Cathedral, the tower of which is seen in Plate 128,
is also situated within the grounds and does duty as a College
Chapel. The English have not much reason to be proud of
their Cathedral except as a relic of the splendid work of the rkt English
first Bishop in 1851. Then it was ample and in accordance ^^^^^^^
with the needs of the diocese ; but considering the increase of
European population and wealth and the expansion of other
institutions it is somewhat discreditable that a fine Cathedral
has not been erected ere now in a more central position.

From the tower of the Cathedral a good view of the harbour
may be obtained, but more interesting still is the curious sight
of the thousands of ^cres Of palms which, when looked at from
this lofty eminence, seem to completely bury the city beneath
their multitudinous crowns of gigantic waving fronds.

The suburb of Mutwall has been to some extent robbed of
its beauty by the great encroachment of harbour works and
fortifications, but beyond these it is more beautiful and inter-
esting than any other part of the coast near Colombo. It is
chiefly inhabitated by fishers, who are mostly Roman Catholics,
a survival of the Portuguese occupation ; evident testimony of
this is seen in the numerous Roman Catholic Churches as
we drive along the Modara Road. St. James' Church is
particularly worthy of our attention. A short distance beyond
this church the noble Kelani River rolls into the Indian Ocean.
Near the mouth is the most picturesque bit of coast near
Colombo. The cocoanut groves which fringe the shore cast
their shadows upon a little village of fishers' huts, scattered
irregularly amongst a luxuriant undergrowth of curious grasses
and red-flowered convolvuli.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to see
Colombo

Crow Island

Corone
impudUns

There is an island here very close to the shore which will
not escape notice. The noisy chorus of the Colombo crow
will arrest our attention. It is his home and is known as
Crow Island, whence he departs in his thousands at break of
day to forage around the whole city and whither he returns
at night to roost. He bears a character which has been noticed
by every author who has written about Ceylon. He is to be
seen in every place where food, good or bad, can be found.
Unlike his species in Europe he is utterly devoid of all timidity.
For sheer impudence and cool daring he stands unrivalled in
the feathery tribe. He will appear in your presence at the
dining table when least expected, and fly off with a choice
morsel ; he will swoop down^ and take biscuit or fruit from a
child's hand unofFered; he will enter your bedroom window
and rob you of the toast and butter brought in with your early
cup of tea, and he is so quick in his movements that he will
catch in his beak any food you may throw out of the window
before it can reach the ground. My first acquaintance with
him created a lasting impression upon me. It was at St.
Thomas' College which, as we have seen, is in this vicinity.
At my first tiffin in the college hall, a lofty building with roof
supported by pillars, surrounded by a verandah and open to
the garden on all sides, it was the custom to keep a Sinhalese
boy with a rifle on his shoulder patrolling around the verandah
during meals to keep off the crows, a gun being the only
known thing for which the Colombo crow has any respect. In
this he seems to share the instinct of his species everywhere.
Rejoicing in the distinctive scientific title of Corone splendens,
he is the most impudent, rascally, raucous-voiced, grey-necked
thief known to humanity. Corone impudiens some authorities
appropriately label him. After this somewhat scathing con-
demnation which the crow deserves we must admit that he is
entitled to a good word, for he is the most useful bird to be
found in Ceylon. His usefulness lies in his ability as a
scavenger, a vocation which, being a dirty feeder, he prose-
cutes to the advantage of the whole community.

The shores of Mutwall present many charming pictures at
eventide. When the fishing canoes are drawn up on the land
(Plate 130), their huge square sails stretched out and drying
in the breeze, and the afterglow throws a soft orange light
upon the objects along the shore, the scene is most enchanting.

Fishing from the rocks is indulged in by little naked
Sinhalese children with rod, line and hook, but without bait ;
and very curious it is to watch them skilfully hooking fish in
this manner as they rise in shoals near the surface of the
water.

Upon returning from Mutwall we can vary our route by

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130. SINHALESE FISHING CANOES.

131. ST. JOHN STREET, PETTAH.

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132. THE SINHALESE COMB MANUFACTURER.

133. THE BARBER.

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THE . BOOK . OF CEYLON

8s-

keeping to the roads bordering on the coast ; but when St. How to see
John Street in the Pettah is reached {Plate 131) it will be worth Colombo
while to drive through it and witch the avocations of the
natives, and the numerous races of people represented in the
crowds through which we pass..

Perhaps there is nothing in. Sinhalese customs that strikes Tortoise-sheu
the stranger from the West more forcibly as being extra- ^^^ maktng
ordinary and peculiar than the custom which requires the
male population of the low country to wear long hair twisted
into a coil at the back of the head and a horse-shoe shaped
tortoise-shell comb at the top, while the women remain innocent
of this form of adornment. In recent years many of the
wealthier classes have relinquished this custom; but it is still
very much in vogue, and the classes vie with one another in
the quality and finish of the comb. One of the great ambitions
of the men of humble position is to possess and wear one of
the finest lustre and most perfect manufacture, while many
mark their higher social position with an additional comb which
rises to a considerable height above their glossy coil at the
back. This custom supports a large number of manufacturers
(Plate 132). The artist in tortoise-shell obtains his raw material
from the hawk*s-bill turtle. His methods of detaching the
scales were once so barbarous and cruel that a special law had
to be passed forbidding them. The poor creatures used to be
captured and suspended over a fire till the heat made the
scales drop off, and then they were released to grow more.
The practice arose from the circumstance that if the shell was
taken from the animal after death the colour became cloudy
and milky. This, however, can be obviated ' by killing the
turtle and immediately immersing the carcase in boiling water.
The plates when separated from the bony pkrt of the animal
are very irregular in form. They are flattened by heat and
pressure and the superficial inequalities are rasped away ;
being very hard and brittle they require careful manipulation
especially as a high temperature, which would soften them
tends to darken and cloud the shell ; they are therefore treated
at as low a heat as is possible for the work. Thickness is
obtained by softening several plates and then applying pressure
when a union of the surfaces takes place. Under heat the shell
is also moulded into various artificial forms.

The yellow variety of tortoiseshell, obtained from the claws
of the animal and fused together, is greatly prized by the comb-
wearing Sinhalese, who pay a high price for it.

But the opposite extreme is adopted by the Malabar Tamils Native toiut
and Moormen, who support a considerable number of native
artists whose operations are destructive rather than construc-
tive— these carry on the trade of professional barber in the

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86 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to M6 Open streets. The operator (Plate 133) sits upon his feet on

Colombo a j^^at by the road-side, and his patient squats in the same

manner facing him. What tough scalps these fellows must
have ! The barber uses no soap to soften his victim's hair,
but wielding his keen weapon with wonderful dexterity, re-
moves every trace of it by a few rapid strokes, leaving the
surface as polished and shining as a new copper kettle. In
the Pettah a dozen or more of these quaint operations may be
seen in passing through a single street, many of the patients
being quaint little brown urchins of various ages.

The betel stall jhe Stranger cannot fail to notice the ubiquity of the scene

represented in plate 134, the betel stall. Here are two women,
who may have been beautiful in a period now somewhat
remote, engaged in an occupation that is often adopted as
they advance in years. They are ministering to the solace
and gratification of the wayfarer, by supplying him with the
three articles that contribute the greatest pleasure of the
native palate — betel leaves, chunam and areca nuts.

The betel habit The habit of chewing these is almost universal, and to say
that they take the place of tobacco amongst Europeans falls
much short of the truth ; for while smoking is fairly common
among the civilised races of Europe it is not general among
both men and women as is betel chewing in Ceylon. The
method is as follows. The areca nut is first sliced and then
cut into tiny pieces by means of nippers. A few of these pieces
together with a small quantity of lime made from calcined
shells or coral are wrapped in a piece of betel leaf and placed
in the mouth. The chewing of this mixture is said to be
pleasant and to produce a soothing effect and also serves* the
useful purpose of a prophylactic for those whose diet consists
almost entirely of rice or other vegetable foods. The origin
of the habit is a very ancient one, being mentioned by his-
torians in times preceding the present era. It is very likely
that in the first instance utility gave rise to the custom, which,
Kke many others, has in time grown to be abused by excessive
indulgence.

A disagreeable effect of betel-chewing is the discoloration
of the teeth; the betel leaf and areca nut together colour the
saliva a. deep, red, with the result that lips and teeth acquire a
blood-stained appearance. This does not strike the natives
themselves as being in the least degree objectionable, although
to the European it seems a great disfigurement, especially as
the Sinhalese have excellent teeth which are naturally pearly
white as may be seen in the few who provide the necessary
exceptions to the general rule. Every man and woman of the
humbler classes, young or old, carries somewhere in the folds
of the waistcloth or concealed in the turban a little box or

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134, THE BETEL NUT.

• ■ ?

U. -
k'- ^

■ 1

1 ' • " ^ 't-^'

]

* '\ -

135, THE BETEL VINE.

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136. THE MALDIVE BUOGALOW.

137. BETEL-LEAF VENDOR

i3d^'g^iby.V3mi^it:

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

basket containing the three necessaries, and from morning till How to see

night on every favourable opportunity the munching goes on. Colombo

Those among the wealthy who have adopted European customs

have to a considerable extent given up the habit, generally in

favour of tobacco, nor do these stancj. in need of the corrective

to an exclusively vegetarian diet; but they are the exceptions.

The native gentleman as a rule has his ornamental betel box

of silver, and it is the duty of his chief servant to keep

it replenished. He does not take wine, but he extracts as

many of the pleasures of conviviality from the well-prepared

betel, which is offered at ceremonial visits, as does the

European from his wine.

The stranger is puzzled to account for the white finger- chunam marks
marks or smears everywhere to be seen upon walls and build-
ings; not even the finest buildings being spared this deface-
ment. It is due to' the disgusting habit of the lower classes
of natives of wiping their fingers upon the walls after mixing
the areca nut with moistened chunam or lime. The marks are
therefore known as chunam marks, '* chunam '* being the
native term for lime. So ingrained is this method of cleansing
the fingers, that nothing short of severe punishment will stop it.

Some years ago a Kandyan official exhibited printed notices
in the precincts of certain buildings to the effect that only
Rodiyas (outcasts of the lowest type) were allowed to wipe
their chunam-bedaubed fingers upon the walls, and for some
time it is said this ironical permission had a restraining effect.

It will be evident that the custom of betel chewing maintains
three extensive industries, the cultivation of the betel vine and
the areca -nut palm, and the production and prepar&'tion of
lime from shells and coral.

The betel vine is allied to the plant which yields black
pepper, and in similar manner is trained as a creeper upon
sticks and trees. Our illustration (Plate 135) shows the plant
in cultivation. Patches, sometimes of an acre in extent, are
to be seen near towns and villages. Women collect the leaves,
arrange them with care in bundles, as seen in our illustration
(Plate 137) and send them to market. Thousands of tons are
sent to Colombo from the outlying country districts. About
twenty tons weekly are sent by rail from Henaratgoda alone.
The shape of the leaf will be seen from our illustrations ; it is of
a fleshy texture and in size, when fully mature, about as large
as a man's hand. Leaves of betel are also used to enwrap the
offerings of money presented in temples.

The Maldive Islands supply a large quantity of the coral ume
lime, which is landed south of Colombo, and prepared for the
market in the coast villages. The Maldive buggalow, a curious
craft which brings the coral, returns laden with areca nuts.

Culture 0/
betel vine

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

How to see
Colombo

The lapidary

Coir matting

The pyramids of lime to be seen upon the heads of women,
carrying it to market in the early morning upon the Galle
Road, south of Colombo, look like heaps of iced confectionery ;
the finer quality has pink colouring matter added, and resembles
-strawberry ice-cream, but in appearance only.

The fruit of the areca palm is about the size of a small
hen*s Gggy and grows in clusters beneath the crown of feathery
foliage at the top of the stem. The so-called nut is the seed,
which is found within the fibrous husk or rind. It is of a
pretty mottled grey and brown colour. It needs very little
preparation; generally it is only sliced and dried in the sun,
but sometimes it is previously boiled. Further reference to
the areca palm will be made in our description of the Kelani
Valley, where it grows in great profusion.

The extensive output of precious stones, for which Ceylon
has been famous from the earliest times, gives employment to
upwards of four hundred lapidaries, many of whom arc to be
seen in Colombo working patiently and placidly in shanties
scarcely corresponding with the wealth that they sometimes
harbour. The cutting and polishing of the gems by native
hands in the land where they arc found gives an added interest
to the visitor.

Plate 138 represents the lapidary at work. The variety of
stones that pass through his fingers in the course of the year
is quite bewildering ; for Ceylon not only yields in abundance
sapphires, rubies, cat*s-eyes, moonstones, amethysts, alexan-
drite, chrysoberyl, garnet, jacinth and many others, but each
in such variety that many, such as the sapphire and ruby stars,
vary so much in tint that the ordinary mortal cannot always
distinguish them.

Plate 139 introduces . another modest worker of Colombo,
engaged in the humble occupation of weaving coir matting.
The fibrous husk of the cocoanut is not its least valuable part,
and amongst its many uses that of matting is perhaps the most
familiar. The visitor can see every process of the many manu-
factures in which the cocoanut palm provides the raw material,
and they cannot fail to arouse considerable interest. Further
reference to them in this work is made in treating of the various
places where they are carried on.

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139. THE SINHALESE WEAVER OF COIR MATTING.

140. IN CHATHAM STREET LOOKING TO THE FORT RAILWAY STATION.

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141. COMPOSITE COACH.

142. SLEEPING SALOON COACH.

bfa.^

HKSBB

L l^^^^H^^^

^^^^^p "•^,. _" "^^^^^■■^jw

143. TRAIN ON THE COAST LINE AT MOUNT LAV! N I A.

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THE
CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS.

THERE is no consideration more important to the traveller The
who intends visiting a far-off country than the facilities Railway*
afforded by its railways and roads. Fortunately Ceylon is well
equipped in both respects. Her railways now afford an easy and
even luxurious means of reaching the most attractive parts of
the country. They render easily and quickly accessible the most
beautiful scenery, the most interesting antiquities and all those
fields of agricultural industry — the tea, the cocoanuts and the
rubber, which hav^* brought about the advanced ' state of pros-
perity which the colony enjoys. No other country in the world
can take you in such spacious and comfortable coaches, on a
track of five feet six inches gauge, over mountains at an
altitude of more than six thousand feet. Yet such facilities
are provided in Ceylon.

I shall now proceed to describe and to illustrate the whole
of the Ceylon Government Railways and the districts which
they serve. The description will not be limited to the various
towns and villages which give their names to the railway
stations, but will be extended to all parts of the country which
the traveller will be likely to visit by using the railway for the
whole or part of his journey. The places are taken in order of
stations, so that the traveller who possesses this book may
read of each place or district as he passes through it. It will,
however, be useful first to take a glance at the following
general description of the various lines and the rules and
regulations which have been made for the comfort and con-
venience of passengers. The traveller who will take the trouble ;
to do this will find himself amply repaid by the various facilities
of which he may avail himself but of the existence of which he
might otherwi be ignorant.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The
Railways

Main line

Coast line

Northern
line

Matale .
branch

The Ceylon Government Railways are State owned as their
name implies, and are under the control of the Ceylon Govern-
ment. . The total mileage is 562 miles, of which 495 are on
the broad gauge (5^^ feet) and 67 on the narrow gauge
(2j^ feet).

The sections of the broad gauge line are the Main, Coast,
Northern and Matale lines. The narrow gauge are the Kelani
Valley and the Udapussellawa lines.

The Main Line runs from Colombo in a north-easterly
direction for about forty-five miles, when after Polgahawela
has been reached it gradually returns until, at the terminus of
Bandarawela (163^^ miles), it is at the same latitude as
Colombo. This line is by far the busiest and most profitable
of the railways, due to the fact that it serves the great tea
districts of the mountain zcrne. It was the first section of the
railways to be constructed, and in its later stages, after the
foot-hills were reached at Rambukkana (fifty-two miles from
Colombo), will be found the chief engineering triumphs of the
line. From Rambukkana the line rises 1,400 feet in the
thirteen miles to Kadugannawa with a ruling gradient of i in
45 and curves of 10 chains (220 yards) radius. The ** ghat '*
or hill-section may be said to begin at Nawalapitiya, the prin-
cipal railway centre of the hill districts, eighty-seven miles
from Colombo, arid 1,913 feet above sea level. From this
point the line rises almost continually with a maximum gradient
of I in 44 and minimum curves of 5 chains (no yards) radius
until it reaches a height of 6,225 feet at Pattipola, 139 miles
from Colombo. From this point, after passing through the
summit-level tunnel, the line falls by similar gradients and
curves to Bandarawela, its present terminus.

The Coast Line follows the west coast in a southerly
direction ta'Galle (71^ miles) and thence, still along the coast,
in an easterly direction, to its terminus at Matara (98^ miles
from Colombo).

The Northern Line, the section of the railways most
recently completed, extends from its junction with the main
line at Polgahawela (45 J>^ miles from Colombo) to Kangesan-
turai in the extreme north of the island ; its distance from
Polgahawela being 2iiJ^ miles.

The Matale Branch extends northwards for 21 miles from
Peradeniya junction (70 J^ miles from Colombo on the main
line) to Matale, which was the starting point for the long
coach journey to the north prior to the construction of the
northern line, and is still the point whence the Trincomale
coach service starts. Kandy is situated on this branch, 74 j4
miles from Colombo and nearly four miles from Peradeniya
junction.

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144. FIRST CLASS COM PART ME NT.

145. SLEEPING BERTHS.

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146. BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOMBO.

147. REFRESHMENT CAR

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THE- BOOK OF CEYLON

The Railways

Kelani

Valley line

V dapxissellawa
line

The rolling
Stock

'The Kelani Valley Line runs eastward from Colombo for
48^4 miles and serves the tea planting district from which it
takes its name.

The Udapussellawa Line runs from Nanuoya (128 miles
from Colombo) to Ragalla, a distance of 19 miles, and upon
it is situated Nuwara Elija, the, -sanitarium of Ceylon, 6,200
feet above sea level and 6}^^ miles from Nanu Qya. This
branch is very similar to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
of India, with a maximum gradient of i in 24 and minimum
curves of 80 feet radius.

The rolling stock of the railway is now constructed
locally in the workshops in Colombo, where upwards of 1,000
workmen are employed under the superintendence of skilled
European foremen. These shops are well equipped with pneu-.
matic and other labour-saving machinery, whilst new tools are
being added year by year. The older type of four-wheeled carri-
ages were imported from England and erected in the colony,
and there are still a good many of these on the line, but they^
are being steadily replaced by the standard type of bogie car-
riage forty-two feet long. These modern carriages, which are
constructed of teak, are not bn the Indian type, with its
longitudinal seats, but on the English, and are furnished with
excellent lavatory accommodation. The outsides of the car-
riages are of varnished teak, whilst the interiors are of the
same wood, picked out with satinwood and adorned with photo-
graphs of interesting places on. the line. The line is w;ell
provided with sleeping and refreshment . cars, the . former
running on the up and down night mail trains between Colombo
and Nanuoya (for Nuwara Eliya), whilst the latter are run on
the principal trains between Colombo^ Kandy and up-country
stations.

Passengers to whom time is an object, and who wish to sleeping cars
pay a flying visit to Nuwara Eliya, can leave Colombo after
dinner, travel in a comfortable sleeping berth for the nominal
sum of Rs. 2.50 (in addition to first-class fare), get an early
tea or breakfast in the refreshment car . before arriving at
Nanuoya, and be in Nuwara Eliya before half-past eight next
morning. In the opposite direction, they can also make the
night journey down between dinner one evening and breakfast
the next morning, early tea being served by the attendant in
the sleeping car.

The catering for the refreshment car is in the hands of a catering
private company, and meals can be obtained along the road in
comfort and at moderate prices; without the inconvenience and
loss of time involved by the Indian system of ** refreshment
stops." . /

On the Northern, line, where the traffic is too light for the
H

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Railways

Luggage

Packages in
carriages

Responsibility

' rat I way
/or loss of or
damaf^e to
luggase

Jot

running of a refreshment car, the through trains halt at Anu-
radhapura a sufficient length of time to enable passengers to
obtain a satisfactory mid-day meal.

In addition to the refreshment cars, the car company pro-
vide breakfast, tiffin and dinner baskets on application, either
from their dep6t in Colombo or from the refreshment cars.

There are three classes on the railways as in England, and
the fares charged are exceedingly moderate.

On all parts of the line, except the Hill section above
Nawalapitiya, the standard single fare per mile is as follows,
viz. first-class, 8 cents; second-class, ^Yi cents; third-class,
2^ cents; and return tickets at a fare and a half are issued
for all classes.

Taking 6 cents as equalling one penny, the rate per mile
for a first-class return ticket in the lower sections is one penny
or the equivalent of the third-class fare in England.

Colombo time is observed throughout the railway system.
» •

The following is the free allowance of luggage per adult passenger,
viz. : — First class, 112 lbs. ; second class, 84 lbs. ; third class, 56 lbs.

For children with half tickets, half the above is allowed free.

Children travelling free are not allowed any free quantity of luggage.

Excess luggage is charged for at full parcels rates, which should be
prepaid at the starting station, but if not charged for there, the excess
may be collected at the end of the journey or at any intermediate point.
A receipt, should be obtained for all excess charges.

Luggage in bulk can be forwarded at goods rates, which are obtainable
on application to any stationmaster.

Passengers are advised to be at the starting station in good time in
order .to admit of their luggage being weighed, labelled, and loaded in
the train before starting time.

The luggage must be well secured and properly addressed with the
owner's name and destination, in addition to the railway destination label,
which passengers should personally see afhxed to the packages. It is
necessary for passengers to obtain and produce their tickets before their
luggage can be labelled. Where numbered luggage receipts are issued,
it is necessary that these should be produced on arrival at destination,
before the luggage can be delivered up.

Care should be taken to remove all old labels from luggage, especially
those for previous journeys on the C.G.R.

Passengers should be careful to comply with these regulations, failing
which the railway w\ll not be responsible for any loss or miscarriage.

Passengers may take into the carriages (at their own risk and in their
own charge) only such small packages as can be placed under the seat
occupied by the owner, or on the hat-racks (where provided). Articles
may not be placed in the gangways of carriages or entrances to lavatories.

Passengers are, earnestly requested to adhere to this rule, so as to
prevent discomfort not only to themselves, but to their fellow passengers.

The railway will not be responsible for any loss of or damage to the
following articles if conveyed as luggage, viz. :— Musical instruments,
plate, bullion, money bills, deedsj notes or securities, precious stones,
jewellery, trinkets, watches, clocks, china, glass, or other frail or fragile
articles. Such articles will only be conveyed as parcels, and they must
be insured as shown below. *

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149 ENGINE FiTTiNU SHOP, COLOMBO. Digitized by GoOQIp

150. BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOMBO.

151. RAILWAY SAWING MILLS IN COLOMBO

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON.

lOI

The liai^ility of Ihe* railway for loss of or damage to passengers'
luggage conveyed free is limited to Rs. 150 for first-class passengers,
Rs. 100 for second-class passengers, and Rs. 50 for third-class passengers,
unless the value is declared and an insurance charge of i per cent, on
the excess value is paid before the luggage is deposited.

Should passengers wish to leave their luggage at any station, they can
do so on paying the cloak-room fee of 10 cents per article for two days,
and 5 cents per article for every additional day or part of a day. A
receipt must be obtained, which must be produced before the articles can
be given up again. Railway servants are strictly forbidden to take charge
of any article belonging to passengers unless it is deposited in the cloak-
room and a receipt obtained for it, as stated above.

Any property of passengers found in the carriages, at the stations, or
on the line, will be removed to the nearest station for twenty-four hours,
after which it will be forwarded to the lost-property office in Colombo,
and if not claimed within three months it will be sold.

Should any passenger lose any article he should inform the guard of
the train and the nearest stationmaster, and also report the loss as soon
as possible to the traffic superintendent in Colombo, in order that imme-
diate steps may be taken to trace the missing property.

In cases where passengers are responsible for the loss of any article,
a small fee will be charged and satisfactory evidence of ownership
demanded before the article is delivered up.

Passengers who wish to secure the exclusive use of a compartment or^
carriage can do so on payment of the following charges, viz. : — First class,
two-thirds of the seating capacity of the carriage or compartment re-
served ; second class, three-quarters ; third class, four-fifths.

To reserve a full compartment in the sleeping car, a first-class ticket
and sleeping-car ticket must be taken for each berth in the compartment.

Accommodation for invalids and through carriages can be arranged on
application to the general manager, Colombo.

Compartments for the use of ladies and young children only will be
provided without extra charge on the through trains on notice being given
on the previous day to the stationmaster at the • station for which the
compartment is required.

The sleeping-cars which run on the up and down night mail traias
between Colombo and Nanuoya are provided with accommodation for
twelve passengers, namely, two four-berth and two two-berth compart-'
ments, and lavatory accommodation. Each berth is numbered and pro-
vided with pillows, sheets, blanket and quilt, and an attendant accom-
panies each car.

The charge for each berth in the sleeping-car is Rs. 2.50 in addition
to the ordinary first-class fare for the distance to be travelled. A sleeping-
car ticket must be purchased for each berth before the car is entered, and
it must be delivered to the car attendant.

Children under twelve years of age accompanying adults may occupy
sleeping berths on payment of half ordinary first-class fare plus full cost
of a sleeping-car ticket, and two or more children may occupy the same
berth with one sleeping-car ticket.

Application for berths must be made not later than 6.30 p.m. at any
station on the line, but payment will not -be accepted nor accommodation
provided until it has been ascertained that berths are available.

One two-berth compartment in each saloon, with lavatory adjoining,
is reserved for ladies, but if this compartment is not booked by 6.30 p.m.
it will be available for married couples, and if disengaged at the time the
train is due to start it will be given to gentlemen passengers.

Only ladies travelling alone are allowed to occupy this ladies' compart-
ment.

The Railways

Left luggage

Losf luggage

Reserved
accommodation

Invalid

accommodation
and through
carriages

Compartments
for ladies

Sleeping cars

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Railways

Refreshment
cars

Refreshment
rooms

special trains

Tickets

The Other two-berth compartment (which is provided with jug, basin,
&c. ) is suitable for married couples, but it is not reserved for this purpose,
and is given tolhe first applicants. The berths in it are numbered 3 and
4. Ayahs are only allowed in the sleeping-car when the full compartr
ment is paid for.

The Jrefreshment cars are first-class carriages, and second-class passen-
gers are only allowed to enter them for the purpose of obtaining refresh-
ments, nor may they remain in the cars for more than one of the advertised
stages.

Dogs and luggage may not be taken into refreshment cars under any
circumstances.

Smoking is only permitted when passengers are not taking meals, and
then only with the consent of all other passengers in the car.

Refreshment rooms exist at Polgahawela, Hatton, and Nanuoya on
the Main line, Alutgama on the Coast line, Anuradhapura and Vavuniya
on the Northern line.

Refreshments at these places are provided at moderate prices. The
guard of the through Northern line trains will wire free of charge for
the provision of midday meals at Anuradhapura.

Passengers from the Bandarawela line by the down night mail can
have dinner ordered at Nanuoya by wire free of charge on application to
the ^uard.

A special train can be provided from Colombo to Kandy and back on
payment of a minimum charge of 50 first-class return fares (Rs. 9 is the
first-class return fare) on application to the general manager, Colombo.
Steamer passengers who have sufiicient time for a journey to Kandy
during the stay of their boat in Colombo can arrange for a special through
the steamer agents. The run takes a little over three hours each way.

For other special trains the charge is Rs. 4 per mile for a single, and
Rs. 6 per mile for a return journey, plus fares and luggage at ordinary
rates for the passengers and luggage conveyed. The mileage will be
calculated from the nearest station from which an engine can be supplied ;
and the minimum charge for running a special is Rs. 50.

Applications for specials should be made to the general manager not
less than twenty-four hours before the special is required, and no
guarantee can be given that it will be provided.

The booking offices will be open for the issue of tickets half an hour
before the advertised time for the departure of trains, and may be closed
five minutes before the departure time.

-In-order to prevent inconvenience and delay, passengers are requested
to provide themselves with suitable change, as the booking clerks may not
at all times be able to give change. Passengers should also examine their
tickets and change before leaving the booking counter, as errors cannot
afterwards be rectified.

The English sovereign and half-sovereign are accepted at all booking
offices^ their* equivalents being Rs. 15 and Rs. 7.50.

Tickets are nol transferable, and must be produced or delivered up
whenever demanded by the sail way. servants.

Single journey tickets are only available on the day of issue, or by
a through train starting on the day of issue.

First- and second-class return tickets for distances of 30 miles and
under are available for return within three days, inclusive of day of issue
and day of return {i.e., a ticket issued on Monday is available for return
on Wednesday) ; for distances over 30 miles within 17 days, inclusive of
day of issue and day of return'; third-class return tickets for distances
30 miles and under are available for return on day of issue only, excepting
tickets issued on Saturday or Sunday, which are available for return on
Monday ; for distances over 30 and not exceeding 50 miles, within three

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15Z THE WHEEL SHOPa

15a THE WHEEL YARD.

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^j, SALOON COACH.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

105

days inclusive of day of issue and day of return ; over 50 miles, seven
days, inclusive of day of issue and d<y of return.

For the convenience of tourists, Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons have
authority to issue coupons over the C.'.G.R. These are subject to the
same conditions as ordinary tickets.

Passengers desirous of travelling beyond the station to which they have
booked must, before passing that station, hand their tickets to the guard,
who will see to the collection of the excess fare at the proper point, but
under no circumstances can the advantage of a return ticket be obtained
by payment of excess fare. Passengers cannot be rebooked at roadside
stations to proceed by the train in which they have arrived.

Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations over
60 miles apart are allowed to break journey at any intermediate station
once on the outward and once on the homeward route, provided they do
not travel more than once in each direction over the same section of line,
and that the return journey is completed within the time for which the
return ticket is available. When a passenger breaks journey at a station
he must hand his ticket to the stationmaster to be endorsed to that effect.

Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations 60
miles apart of which Peradeniya Junction is an intermediate station, may
travel on to Kandy and break journey there without paying excess fare
between Peradeniya Junction and Kandy in either direction. In this case
the tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at Kandy.

Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between Matale line
stations and stations beyond Kandy, but less than 60 miles apart, are
allowed to break journey at Kandy provided they resume their journey
the same day. Such tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at
Kandy before the passengers leave the station premises.

Children under three years of age will be conveyed free. Children of
that age and under 12 years will be charged half fare.

One female servant only will be allowed to accompany her mistress in
a first-class carriage (whether in charge of children or not) on payment
of second-class fare, provided such an arrangement does not interfere
with the comfort of other passengers travelling in the same compartment.

Nurses in charge of children, when not accompanying their mistresses,
must pay the fare of the class in which they travel.

Should a passenger, from an unavoidable cause, be unable to obtain
a ticket before starting, he must as soon as possible report the fact to the
guard, and pay his fare at the destination station, or earlier if demanded.
A passenger travelling without a ticket, or with a ticket so totn or
mutilated that the date, number of station from or to, cannot be de-
ciphered, is liable to be charged from the station from which the train
originally started, unless he can prove satisfactorily that he entered the
train at some intermediate station.

Passengers who are called upon to pay excess fares should demand and
obtain a receipt for the amount paid.

Passengers who are unable to use the homeward halves of ordinary
return tickets within the specified time can have them extended on appli-
cation at the station from which they are returning, and on payment of
the necessary extra sum.

Special terms are granted to pleasure parties consisting of not less
than 10 persons travelling by ordinary trains between stations not less
than 25 miles apart, and also to other special parties. Full, particulars
of the charges and regulations can be obtained on application to the
general manager, Colombo.

The travelling public are allowed to despatch telegrams through the
railway telegraph department at the " urgent " rates of the Post Office
telegraph department, provided they are bond fide from a passenger or to

The Railways

Bftak of
journey

Children

Female servants
and nurses

Travelling
without ticket

Excess jares

Extension of
tickets

Special terms
to parties of
travellers

Telegrams

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Railways a passenger travelling by train. The urgent rates are as follows : — First
eight words or group of three figures, 75 cents ; each additional word or
group of three figures, 10 cents.

The free address includes the names of the offices from and to which
the telegram is to be despatched, the name of the sender, and name and
address of the addressee.

No charge will be made for the delivery of telegrams addressed to
hotels and resthouses within a quarter of a mile of a station, or for those
addressed to the railway refreshment cars, refreshment rooms at stations,
and the refreshment car office at Colombo. Upon all other telegrams a
charge of 50 cents for delivery within five miles of a station must be
prepaid.

Though every effort will be made to ensure quick despatch and correct
delivery, the railway will not be responsible for delay or non-delivery.

Any person requiring to send a telegram relative to parcels, luggage,
&c., such as requests for re-addressing, &c., will be charged 50 cents for
such telegram, and a further sum of 25 cents if a reply is required.
Should it be found that the telegram was necessitated by the fault of any
member of the railway staff, the amount paid will be refunded.

Passengers who may have left articles on the station premises or in
the carriage in which they have travelled, and who wish inquiries made
by wire, will be required to pay 25 cents for telegram of inquiry and 25
cents for reply. If, however, the articles lost were booked and placed on
the van, inquiry will be made by wire without charge.

Only safety breech-loading cartridges may be despatched by passenger
train, and they are charged for at ordinary prepaid parcels rates, pro-
vided they are packed in a box, barrel, or case of wood, metal, or other
solid material of such strength that it will not become defective or un-
secured whilst being conveyed.

The rates and regulations for the conveyance of horses, carriages,
motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol by passenger train, may be obtained on
application to any stationmaster.

Small animals, such as cats, puppies, mongooses, monkeys, mousedeer,
&c., and poultry and other kinds are only carried in strongly-made square
crates or hampers, and they are charged for by weight at parcels rates.
Dogs Dogs in crates, cases, or hampers will be charged for by weight at

parcels rates : when in dog-locker, 25 cents each for every 25 miles or part
of 25 miles.

Dogs for conveyance in the dog-locker must be provided with chain
and leather or metal collar in good order, unless a letter of indemnity
is furnished.

No person is allowed to take a dog into a passenger carriage except
with the consent of the stationmaster at the starting station and the con-
currence of his fellow-passengers, and then only on prepayment of double
rate for each dog.

The acceptance of a dog at the double rate for carriage with the owner
is subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected
to, no refund being given.

The railway will not be responsible for the loss of or injury to any dog
which may escape either in consequence of its becoming unmanageable,
slipping its collar, or by the breakage- of the chain or collar by which it
is secured.
Bicycles Bicycles (not packed), other than motor bicycles, when sent as parcels

or carried as passenger luggage, will be conveyed at owner's risk at i
cent per mile over the Main, Coast, and branch lines below Nawalapitiya,
and 2 cents per mile over the Main line and branches above Nawalapitiya.
Minimum charge, 25 cents.

The railway will not undertake to convey the following articles as

Ammunition

Horses, car.
riages, motor
vehicles, parcels,
and petrol
Small animals
and poultry

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

107

parcels, viz. : — Gunpowder, fireworks, vitriol, aquafortis, turpentine,
matches, mineral oils or acids, or any other combustibles or dangerous
materials. Any person contravening this regulation will be liable to
prosecution under the Railway Ordinances.

The charge for insurance of articles conveyed by passenger train
(which must be prepaid) is i per cent, on the value (minimum charge, R. i),
to be declared in writing at the time of booking.

Stationmasters are authorised to accept insurance rate on packages

valued at less than Rs. 500. For articles valued at or above that sum,

application for insurance is to be made to the general manager, Colombo.

Cheques or -other orders for payment of money are not accepted unless

authorised by the general manager.

Information regarding the conveyance of articles at goods rates may
be obtained on application to any stationmaster or to the general manager,
traffic superintendent, or goods agent, Colombo.

The railway will not be responsible for information given by others
than the principal officers in charge of the different stations, of whom
inquiries should always be made, or of the general manager, traffic super-
intendent, or district superintendents.

Passengers are requested to report direct to the general manager,
traffic superintendent, or district superintendent any instance of incivility,
want of attention or misconduct on the part of persons employed on the
railway. Complaints should embody the name and address of the
complainant.

Railway servants are forbidden to ask for or receive from the public
any fee or gratuity.

T li« Railways

Combustible
and dangerous
articles

Insurance

Cheques, etc.
Goods

Inquiries

Incivility

Gratuities

LIST OF STATIONS ON THE CEYLON
GOVERNMENT RAILWAY.

MAIN LINE (Broad Gauge).

Mileage

Height

Mileage

Height

from

Above Sea

from

Above Sea

Colombo.

Level.

Colombo.

Level.

Feet.

Colombo (terminus)

Gamix>la .

1572

Colombo (Maradana

Ulapanc

1846

Junction for Coast

Nawalapitiya

•29

1913

and Kelani Valley

Galboda .

2581

Lines) .

Watawala .

100

3259

Kclaniya .

Rozelle

103

3742

Hunupitiya

Hat ton

108

4141

Ragama

Kotagala .

III

4065

Hmaratgoda

Talawakele

.3932

Veyangoda

Watagoda .

120

4400

Mirigama .

164

Nanuoya (Junction

for

Ambepussa

182

Nuwara Eliya

and

Airawa

190

Uda Pussellawa

Polgahawela (Junction

Lines) .

128

5291

for Northern Line)

244

Ambawcla .

137

6064

Rambukkana

290

Pattipola .

139

6224

Kadugannawa .

1690

Ohiya

143

5902

Peradeniya (Junction

Haputale .

153

4765

for Kandy and

Diyatalawa.

156

4367

Matale Line)

1553

Bandarawela

160

4036

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

TheRaUways MATALE LINE (Broad Gauge). COAST LINE (Broad Gauge).

Mileage Height
from Above Sea
Peradeniya Level.
Junction.

Por^dnniya (New]

Kandy

Mahaiyawa

Katugastota

V\ ^ttegama

Ukuwela

Mntale

UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE

(Narrow Gauge).

Feet

1572

1602

X726

1534

X620

1292

X208

> Mileage

from

Nanuoya

Junction.

m. c.

Height

Above Sea

Level.

Feet.

Nuwara Eliya .
Kandapola
Brookside .

. 6 45
. 12 33
. 16 45

6198
6316
498X

Ragalla

. t9 X7

5818

Pettah
Fort .
Slave Island
Kollupitiya.
Bambalapitiya
WcUawatta.
Dehiwala .
Mount Lavinia
Angulana .
Lunawa
Moratuwa .
Panadurc .
Wadduwa .
Kaiutara, North
Kalutara, South
Katukurunda
Paiyagala, North
Paiyagala, South
Maggona .
Beruwala .
Alutgama (for Bcntota)
Induruwa .
^Ko§goda

NORTHERN lii^ ■(B5««n'>''^gffl;l

Gauge).

Potuhcra .
Kurunegala
Wellawa .
Ganewatta .
Maho

Ambanpola .
Galgamuwa
Talawa
Anuradhapura
Madawachchi
Vavuniya .
Mankulam .
Paranthan .
Elephant Pass (hi
Pallai.
Kodikaniam
Chavakachcheri
Navatkuli .
Jaffna
Cliunakam .
Kankesiinturai

idling

place

only

•*^Ueage

y /?<%■'■ ,

Polgi^afrcta

•JuH'iTon."

'in. c.

7 53

13 15

X9 x8

26 39

40 3

47 ai

53 40

''I 75

8x 21

97 31

iix 77

140 2X

163 6

) 169 41

176 54

185 77

X90 41

195 71

200 24

206 X4

211 x8

Gintota
Gallc < K
. Talpe J.

Abooffama '
Wdigama '.
Kambunigamuwa
Matira

Mileage

from

Colombo

(Maradana

Junction).

6
45
24
25
45
70
44
20

7
51
37

6
28

8
x6
75

13
17

2X
26
27
29
31
31

33 10

35 7

38 28

41 54

45 29

49 63

52 62

60 14

64 13

68 28

71 68

78 23

84 24

89 58

95 4

98 36

KELANI VALLEY LINE

(Narrow Gauge).

Mileage

from

Colombo

{Maradana

Junction).

Cotta Road
Nugegoda .
Pannipitiya
Homagama .
Padukka
Waga.
Kosgama .
Puwakpitiya
AvisawcUa .
Dehiowita .
Karawanella
Yatiantota

m. c.

2 20

5 52

10 49

15 23

21 74

27 48

30 57

34 43

36 66

42 50

45 40

47 60

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AT.

• fissures.
. I Wack

••'-^"■'"^V-:?. . '-gitized by Google

io8

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Railways MATALE LINE (Broad Gauge). COAST LINE (Broad Gauge).

Mileage

Height

from

Above Sea

Pcradtniya

Level.

Junction.

in. c.

Feet.

PfT^doniva (New)

1572

Kandy

3 70

z6o2

Mahaiyawa

4 71

X726

Katugastota

7 25

1534

\v 4ttegama

II 33

1620

Ukuwela .

17 52

1292

Mitale

21 9

1208

UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE
(Narrow Gauge).

1 Mileage Height

Pettah
Fort .
Slave Island
Kolliipitiya.
Bambalapitiya
Wellawatta.
Dehiwala .
Mount Lavinia
Angulana .
Lunawa
Moratuwa .
Panadure .
Wadduwa .
Kalutara, North

from Above Sea Kalutara, South
Nanuoya Level. Katukuruada

Nuwara Eliya
Kandapola
Brookside .
Ragalla

Junction.
m. c.
6 45
12 33
16 45
19 17

Fcot.
6198
63x6
4981
58x8

Paiyagala, North
Paiyagala, South
Maggona
Beruwala

Alutgaina (for Bentota)
Induruwa .
•5- ^ .: - ■- .. .K9§goda .

• J '*'^'3^ -. 'Y^r ^ 5 j^ift^iT^cfaa
NORTHERN l|n^ '(^^^ :*Tg^^H

Gau6e). Gintota

V ' "Mileage Galle i, K

*.■ ^ . ffoW' ^ ,.Talpe " i.

Wdigama '.

Potuhrra ....
Kurunegala

Wcllawa 19 18

Gancwatta . . . . , 26 39

Jun-non.*

m. c,

7 53

13 15

Kamburugamuw;
Matara

Mileage

from

Colombo

{Maradana

Junction).

m. c.

I 6

1 45

2 24

3 25

4 45

5 70

7 44

8 20

11 22

12 5

13 7
17 51
21 37

26 6

27 28
29 8
31 16
31 75
33 10
35 7
38 28
41 54
45 29
49 63
52 62
60 14.
64 13
68 28
71 68
78 23
84 24
89 58
95 4
98 36

Maho

Ambanpola.
Galgamuwa
Talawa
Anuradhapura
Madawachchi
Vavuniya .
Mankulani .

. 40 3

47 21

. 53 40

. 71 75

. 81 21

• 97 31

. HI 77

. 140 21

Paranthan 163 6

Elephant Pass (halting place only) 169 41

I'allai 176 54

Kodikamam . . . . 185 77

Chavakachcheri .... 190 41

Navatkuli ..... 195 71

Jafifna 200 24

Chunakam ..... 206 14

Kankcsanturai . . . . 211 18

KELANI VALLEY LINE
(Narrow Gauge).

Mileage

from

Colombo

(Maradana

Junction).

m. c.

Cotta Road
Nugegoda .
Pannipitiya
Homagama .
Padukka .
VVaga.
Kosgama .
Puwakpitiya
Avisawclla .
Dehiowita .
Karawanella
Yatiantota

2 20

5 52

10 49

15 23

21 74

27 48

30 57

34 43

36 66

42 50

45 40

47 60

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..[

•"-..:;■■; :^^,g,i,zed biiGQOgle

The Railway*

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

T09

156. CROSSING THE RIVER AT BENTOTA.

THE COAST LINE ITINERARY.

* . • •, • >
The seaside railway f rom . Cotombo to Matara affords every

facility for visiting the vlllag-es and towns of the south coast,
where Sinhalese life pure and simple can be seen to greater
advantage than any where, else in Ceylon. Here is to be found
the purely Sinhalese section of the inhabitants of the island,
a circumstance due to the fact th^t the lowlands of the south
were not invaded by the Malabars, who in early times con-
quered and held possession of the northern provinces for long
periods, with the result of a considerable commixture of the
Aryan and Dravidian races.

The line begins at Maradana junction in the heart of
Colombo, and the next four stations are also in Colombo, after
which follow four more which may be called suburban. Upon
leaving Maradana junction the line follows the banks of the lake
for the first two miles, when it passes under the Kolupitiya
Road to the coast. At the end of the first mile we reach

The Pettah (im. 6c.*). — This station serves the most densely
populated portion of Colombo where the native trader chiefly
dwells. It has the largest passenger business of the coast
line. A description of the locality which it serves has already
been given in our account of Colombo. The next station is
that of

♦ The distancfs of all statiors from the Maradana Station at Colombo are indi-
cated in miles and chains ; there being 80 chains in a mile.

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no THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line Jhe Fort (im. 45c.). — From the platform of this station

The Fort which we illustrate by our plate 157 there is a remarkably

beautiful prospect. The lengthy and commodious platform
forms a terrace before which stretches an enchanting fresh-
water lake fringed with palms and plantains and covering
several hundred acres ; groups of bronze-tinted figures are
wading waist-deep near its banks; some are occupied in fishing,
others are enjoying a swim ; and a yet greater number are
engaged near the bank in the destructive, albeit cleansing,
pursuits of the dhoby. During the north-east monsoon from
October to May the distant mountain ranges, centred by
Adam's Peak, are frequently outlined against the sky, forming
the background of a scene that always impresses the visitor.
This station is largely used by the clerks of the European
mercantile firms and the government offices in the Fort who
live in the suburbs and in the more distant towns and villages
to the south of Colombo. It is also a most convenient starting
point for passengers from the steamships and visitors at the
Grand Oriental and Bristol hotels, who take trips to Mount
Lavinia and the various places of interest farther south.

Slave Island SLAVE ISLAND (2m. 24c.). — Slave Island station is situated

near the southern end of Galle Face and is therefore most con-
venient for the visitors of Galle Face Hotel. Near it a narrow
channel joins that part of the lake which borders Galle Face
to the larger stretch which reaches from Slave Island to
Polwatte. The railway crosses the channel at the point illus-
trated by our plate 158, and from the bridge we get the
view in plate 159. It will be noticed that we are in pic-
turesque surroundings already, and this condition will fcon-
tinue for the whole ninety-eight miles of the line, increasing, if
possible, in beauty, and never absent. We now pass beneath
the Kollupitiya Road, .and arrive upon the sea-beach just below
the Galle Face Hotel.

KoliHpitiya Kollupitiya (3m. 25c.). — Kollupitiya station is situated

just where Green Path and Turret Road converge and reach
the main Galle Road; and it is therefore most conveniently
placed for residents round and about the Victoria Park and
Cinnamon Gardens. It also serves the populous district of
Kollupitiya itself, which contains more bungalows of the better
class within a given spac6 than any other portion of Colombo.
Many Europeans who prefer residences quite close to the sea
live here, as do a large number of the burgher and native com-
munities. The main road is somewhat squalid here and there
with bazaars and various detached boutiques, but always beau-
tiful by reason of the flora in which the squalor is embowered.

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IS7. THE FORT STATION.

■

^m.

M^^^ML^

^^^^^^^B^

108. SLAVE ISLAND BRtOQE.

ISO. FROM SLAVE ISLAND BRIDGE.

100. THE COAST LINE AT WELLAWATTA.

Digitized

by Google

161. ALFRED HOUSE, BAMBALAPITIYA,

162. BAMBALAPITIYA.

163. WELLAWATTA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

113

Bambalapitiya (4m. 45c.). — Bambalapitiya is a suburb of ^^«"** Line
Colombo \yith characteristics somewhat similar to Kollupitiya, Bambalapitiya
but less densely populated, and therefore more desirable as a
residential neigfhbourhood. Near the station are many exten-
sive Hnd luxurious bungalows, notably the residence of Lady
de Soysa (Plate 161), the widow of the late Mr. Charles de
Soysa, the greatest landowner in Ceylon, and one-of its greatest
philanthropists. In this bungalow Mr. de Soysa entertained
H.R.H. the Duke of Fldinburgh at a great banquet on the
occasion of His Royal Highness 's visit in 1870. Every visitor
is delighted with Bambalapitiya. The landscape varies little,
but is never wearisome ; the naturalist is enchanted by the
abundance of interesting* objects at every turn ; while to the
enthusiastic botanist the highway, densely bordered on either
side with an inexhaustible variety of leaf and blossom, is a
treasury unsurpassed in any other country. The brown
thatched huts, the groups of gaily-clad natives, animals, birds
— all these add life to a scene that baffles description. Garlands
of creepers festooned from tree to tree; huge banyans stretching
in archways completely over the road, with the stems all over-
grown by ferns, orchids, and other parasitic plants ; here and
there a blaze of the flame-coloured gloriosa, golden orchids,
various kinds of orange and lemon trees covered with fragrant
blossoms, climbing lilies, an undergrowth of exquisite ferns of
infinite variety, all crowned by slender palms of ninety or a
hundred feet in height — all these defy description.

A tree will be noticed in our illustration (Plate 162) with Cotton trees
lateral branches thrown out in groups of three, some feet apart,
and bearing a large crop of pods on otherwise bare branches.
This is the cotton tree, called by the Sinhalese Katu-Imbul. It
may be seen on this road in three stages : -first, it becomes
loaded with crimson blossoms before any leaves appear ; then,
the leaves develop ; and afterwards it bears pods as seen in the
picture. When ripe, the cotton bursts from the pod, and where
the trees are uncultivated it strews the road ; but where culti-
vation is carried on, it is collected from the pods, and the fibre,
being too short for spinning, is used for various purposes
loc^ally, and is also exported to some extent for stuffing
mattresses.

Havelock Town, a suburb that has recently sprung up and Haveiock To-wn
possesses some very nice bungalows and a park of six acres,
is served by Bambalapitiya station. This neighbourhood has
recently gained much by the erection of the Church of St.
Paul (Plate 163). It is a centre of very enthusiastic Chilrch of
England mission work, under the care and direction of the
Reverend J. C. Ford.

Visitors who have any fancy for seeing the spinning and
I

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114

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Cotist Line

WeliawatU

Dehlwala

Fishing industry

weaving of cotton by the Sinhalese should look in at the
Mills close to Havelock Town. Here there are 600 hands
employed in the manufacture of cloths of various kinds. It is
an interesting sight, and as the trifling fee of ten cents is
charged at the gate, the visitor can look around with the com-
fortable feeling that he is not there by favour or sufferance.

Wellawatta (5m. 70C.). — Our illustration (Plate 165) will
give a good idea of the stations in the suburbs of Colombo. It
will be noticed that they border the sea very closely ; but it must
be borne in mind that there, are no considerable tides to reckon
with, the sea rising only to an extent almost imperceptible.
The rough seas of the south-west monsoon, however, have
not to be lost sight of, as they sometimes treat these stations
fliore roughly than is good for them.

The scenery around Wellawatta is notable for the pretty
-landscapes observable from the railway bridges. Examples
are- given in our plates 160 and 163.

Dehlwala (7m. 44c.). — Dehiwala, although in effect a
suburb of Colombo containing some excellent bungalows, in
reality retains its older character of a fishing village, and the
visitor will find it a convenient and attractive place in which to
observe some. of the quaint operations of the fishing . industry
atid.the remarkable fish themselves, with their curious shapes
and beautiful colours. The number of species caught amount
to no less than six hundred. Of those which are edible the
one most preferred is also the most plentiful — the Seer. In
size and shape this fish somewhat resembles the salmon, but its
flesh is white. In flavour it is by some thought to be superior
to salmon ; but however this may be, it is certain that few
people tire* of Seer, although it is daily served at some meal
throughout the year.

Fish auctions take place each day upon the sands ; and very
interesting are they to the visitor, not only as a study of native
life, but as an exhibition of the strangest creatures brought
forth from the deep. Among the most curious are the saw-
fish. These are something like sharks in the body, but the
head has attached to it a huge flat blade, with sharp teeth pro-
jecting on either side. This frightful weapon in a full-grown
fish of some twelve or fourteen feet long extends to about
five feet in length. With it these monsters charge amongst
shoals of smaller fish, slaying them right and left and devour-
ing them at leisure. The saws are sold as curiosities and can
generally be .obtained in Colombo. The red fire-fish, some-
times brought ashore, is of a remarkably brilliant hue. The
sword-fish, the walking-fish with curious arms and legs, by

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164. CHURCH OF ST. PAUL, MILAGRIYA.

165. WELLAWATTA STATION

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166. THE COAST FROM DEHIWALA TO MOUNT LAVINIA,

fc.%Mk

' ^^3

15-

(> !

,11

» if

167. BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT DEHWALA.

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THE BOOK OF CEVLOX

means of which it crawls along the bottom of the sea, the dog- ^^^»^ ^'■'*
fish marked like a tiger, and various species of the ray are
frequently caught.

Our plate 166 shows the coast from Dchiwala to Mount Dehiwaia
Lavinia. Here sea turtles of great size arc frequently captured.
When taken and turned over on to their backs their huge
flappers hurl great quantities of sand into the faces of their
captors.

Another attractive feature of Dehiwaia is the Buddhist nutUhist
Temple. Although smaller than some others within a short ^''"^''
distance from Colombo it is most accessible and the pleasantest
to visit, owing to its being clean and well kept. The priests
are very obliging and readily afford any information asked of
them. Within are to be seen huge images of Buddha, both
sitting and reclining. Mural paintings, of the crudest
character, represent various legends, and especially set forth
the various forms of punishment in store for those who disobey
the Buddhist precepts. Before the images offerings of flowers
are heaped ; including lotus blossoms, temple flowers, and the
blossoms of the areca and cocoanut palms. No worshipper
comes empty-handed ; and the fragrant perfume is sometimes
almost overpowering. Near the Temple is a preaching-house,
the interior of which is carved and highly decorated. The
clever designs on the floor of the Temple, w^hich the natives
have worked in mosaics from broken pieces of English pottery,
are particularly striking.

Mount Lavinia (8m. 70c.). — This station takes its name Mount
from the handsome marine residence which Sir Edward Barnes L«vinia
built here when Governor of Ceylon in 1824. It stands upon a
rocky promontory washed by the waves on three sides and
commands the finest view of coast scenery near Colombo ; ** an
edifice," wrote Tennent, "in every way worthy of the great
man by whom it was erected. But in one of those paroxysms
of economy which are sometimes not less successful than the
ambition of the Sultan in the fable, in providing haunts for
those birds that philosophise amidst ruins, the edifice at Mount
Lavinia had scarcely been completed at an expense of ;^30,ooo
when it was ordered to be dismantled, and the building was
disposed of for less than the cost of the window frames."
This once vice-regal villa long since became the Mount Lavinia
Grand Hotel, and as such it has a world-wide reputation. It is
a favourite rendezvous of ocean passengers, but its greater use-
fulness is in the opportunities it presents to residents inland
who from time to time need a change to sea air. At Mount
Lavinia that desideratum is available under the pleasantest pos-
sible conditions. The recreations of sea-bathing, fishing, tennis

Digitized by VjOOQIC

ii8

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

Bathing at
Mount Lavinia

Railway
facilities

Road
conveyance

Local products
Manufactures

Education

Sport

and billiards are all at hand, while the situation is romantic and
picturesque. Our illustrations show the position of the hotd,
the bathing accommodation and the railway station.

Bathers are undisturbed by the presence of sharks, as the
reef and rocks keep out these voracious monsters and render
the bathing- quite safe and enjoyable. The temperature of the
water being about 85° F. the luxury can be indulged in ad
libitum. Another boon to the inland resident who visits Mount
Lavinia is the plentiful supply of fresh fish and the " fish tiffins "
and " fish dinners " for which the hotel is noted. In our view
of the railway station there will be noticed some barracks on
the left which were until recently used as a sanitarium for
troops ; but since the adoption of Diyatalawa for this purpose
they have fallen into disuse.

The railway station is equipped with a fully furnished
ladies' waiting room, and two waiting halls provided with
seats for the different cl sses of passengers. There are about
twenty trains to Colombo on week-days and seven on Sundays.
Besides the hotel the station serves the village of Galkissa,
which has a population of about 5,000.

No horse carriages are available for hire ; but bullock
hackeries can be obtained at rates of 50 cents a mile for
Europeans and 25 cents for natives.

Cocoanuts, cinnamon and native vegetables. Fish is the
only commodity sent by rail.

Lace, bamboo tats (shade blinds), bullock carts, curiosities
and carved furniture are all manufactured in the village of
Galkissa.

The Church of England, Roman Catholics, Wesleyans and
Buddhists all have small schools in the village. The Buddhists
have several wihares (Buddhist temples), dewales (Hindu
shrines attached to Buddhist temples) and pansalas (Buddhist
monasteries).

Snipe shooting can be had in season within a mile of the
station.

Anffuiana Angulana (iim. 22C.). — Angulana is a village of about

' 1,000 inhabitants. Its local manufactures are limited to
buttons' and walking sticks. Cocoanuts, betel and cinnamon
are its chief agricultural products. Its principal estate is the
Kandapola Cinnamon Estate, which is illustrated by plate 174,
the property of Lady de Soysa. The Anglicans, Wesleyans
and Roman Catholics each have churches and schools in the
village. The station is small and its business limited to
passengers and the despatch of about ten tons of fish per
week to Colombo.

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laH MOUNT LAVINIA.

160. BATHINO HOUSE.

^^H

p.v •■

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ISIT^

WT-^

170. HCAOCR8 FROM THE ROCKS.

171. MOUNT LAVINIA STATION.

172. RAILWAY BRIDOC.

173. THE CALLE ROAD.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

176. CHURCH OF HOLY EMMANUEL.

177. CHURCH OF HOLY EMMANUEU

kCAk:

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: ». M 4i.a%.. I !i^yii#M

L'tilti

.sa.^-** -

178. SUNDAY SCHOOL.

I7a CARPENTERS.

laa PRINCE OF WALES- COLLEGE.

PRINCE OF WALES' COLLEGE

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uogle

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

121

Local
accommodation

LuxAWA (12m. 5c.). — Lunawa is a village of about 1,800 Coast Line
inhabitants, almost entirely Sinhalese. The cocoanut is its Lanawa
chief product of the soil, and its manufactures are limited to
furniture and general carpentry work. The main Colombo-
Galle Road runs parallel with the- railway at a distance of half
a mile from the station. The Prince of Wales' College for
boys, an extensive and successful institution founded by the
munificence of the late Mr. C. H. de Soysa, is situ *^ed here.
It is aifiliated to the Calcutta University, and h 3 proved of
immense benefit to the adjoining large and populous town of
Moratuwa.

Passengers will find a resthouse close to the station, where
food can be obtained without any previous notice. Good buggy
carts and hackeries drawn by single bulls can also be obtained
by those who desire to explore the neighbourhood.

Moratuwa (13m. 7c.). — Moratuwa, which with its adjoin- Moratuwa
ing village contains a population of 30,000, is an exceedingly
picturesque town. Its inhabitants apply themselves chiefly to
one calling — that of carpentry. The visitor who wishes for
a glimpse of native life pure and simple may obtain it here
amidst the pleasantest surroundings.

The railway station is in the town and possesses a ladies' Railway
waiting-room in addition to the usual waiting-hall. There is /"^''*'»*^
no refreshment-room ; but quite near the station is the Reliance
Hotel where food can be obtained without previous arrange-
ment, both for Europeans and natives. It has also sleeping
accommodation to the extent of seven double bed-rooms. Horse conveyances
carriages, buggy carts and hackeries can be readily obtained
near the station. Particularly nice hackeries can be hired at
very moderate rates, and arc most convenient for visiting the
various interesting spots.

The chief agricultural products are cocoanuts, cinnamon Local prottucts
and betel. A large quantity of arrack is distilled here, of which
some 250 tons are sent off by rail during the course of the
year. Plumbago mining is carried on to some extent in the
neighbourhood, and an average of about ten tons per month
is despatched by rail.

The local manufactures, in addition to furniture of every Manufactures
description, are carriages, tea-chests and lace. The tea-chests
despatched by rail average about sixty tons a month.

We have already noticed the splendid endowment of the institutions
late Mr. C. H. de Soysa in the direction of education; we
shall now see in the town of Moratuwa further evidences of
the philanthropy and large-minded generosity not only of
himself but also of his ancestors and his descendants. Their
public spirit is evident everywhere in the roads which they

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122

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

Moraiuwa

The hackery

A ttractions
of Moratuwa

have made and the public buildings they have erected. Not
the least of these are for the promotion of the religious welfare
of the ijihabitants ; the beautiful church of Holy Emmanuel -
which we illustrate (Plates 176 and 177), and the extensive and
handsome Sunday School (Plate 178).

There are also large Roman Catholic churches and schools
as. well as Wesleyan and Baptist. The Sinhalese inhabitants
are mostly Christians, but a considerable number of Buddhists
have also their Wihares, of which the Gangarama is the chief
one in the town.

The hackery which we illustrate by plate 182 is the genuine
Moratuwa article and was photographed near the station.
We disport ourselves in this, dangling our legs at the back
as the driver dangles his in front. Our steed is a smooth-
skinned little bull with a hump above his shoulders with which
he draws the car by pressing against the cross-bar affixed to
the shafts. His legs are slender, almost deer-like, and his pace
is nearly equal to that of a pony. He is guided in driving by
thin reins of rope, which are passed through the nostril. Bar-
barous as it may seem to bore a hole through this sensitive
part for such a purpose, it is doubtful whether he suffers more
by this method than he would by any other that could be
devised. The hackery is essentially the carriage of the middle-
class native. The whole turn-out may cost from £2 to £y
or £S, according to the age and quality of the bull and quality
of the car. The upkeep amounts to little, while the cost of
fodder is a very few shillings per month. So it will be evident
that the hire to be- paid by the passenger is not a ruinous
sum; but however little, it should be agreed upon at the start.
50 cents or 8d. an hour would be the approximate charge ; but
there is no fare fixed by local ordinance in the out-stations and
villages. However sporting the European visitor may feel
he will be well advised not to try his hand at driving the bull,
a proceeding which would certainly result in ignominious
disaster. The useful little beasts are very obedient to the native,
whose voice they understand, but have a great objection to
being handled by the European. Upon turning from the station
road the bazaar with its gabled roofs illustrated by plate 183
will attract attention. Thence we should drive on to the toll-
bar (Plate 184), and leaving our little car stroll on to the bridge
which crosses the Panadure River (Plate 185). Here will be
noticed many quaint scenes, not the least interesting being
the manipulation of the extensive but frail-looking bamboo
rafts used by the natives for river traffic (Plate 186). A drive
along the Galle-Colombo road in the direction of Lunawa will
afford considerable interest (Plate 175), and afterwards a look
around the various furniture factories, winding up the excursion

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^BHU^^Phut ^^^^B%b3I^ '

— TC^1

183. THE HACKERY.

183. MORATUWA BAZAAR.

184. THE TOLL BAR.

ISa. THE BRIOOE.

^■pr

IBP

||H|

H^^J^ ''-^r* ^ *

^^^

lee. BAMBOO RAFTS.

187. THE LAOOON.

188. EUROPEAN CHILDREN ON THE LAGOON.

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189. MORATUWA MAIDS.

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THE BOOK OK CEYLON 125

with a row upon the extensive and beautiful lake. The ^^^»* ""•
primitive methods of the carpenters, who construct their own Moratuwa
tools and employ their toes as well as. their fingers in their
work, will strike the visitor as a strange contrast to the
methods of the West.

Although not very skilful in designing, they are clever ^^^^^'
workmen and carve beautifully. Some of their cabinet work
is exquisite ; but the chief industry of the village is the making
of cheap furniture. Thousands of tables, chairs, couches and
bedsteads arc made in the course of the year, under palm-
thatched sheds on the banks of a beautiful lagoon. These
workshops, embowered in luxuriant foliage, are so unlike the
furniture factories of the western world, the work is carried
on so patiently, and the surroundings are so fascinating, that
we scarcely realise that the earnest business of life is being
carried on. Indeed, there is no stern-featured diligence, hard
work, hurry and bustle, as in Europe. A shilling a day pro-
vides the wherewithal for the workman and his family, and
it is permitted to be leisurely earned. The methods of the
Moratuwa carpenter correspond with his enchanting surround-
ings ; for all work in a tropical village is of an al-fresco nature,
and never prosecuted too seriously.

The European visitor is sure of a welcome and everything
is open to his inspection. His presence is always an occasion
of great intej-;^st and amusement to the non-workers, and
especially the children, who flock around him and wonder at
the curiosity which he exhibits in their parents* occupations.

Parties of Europeans not infrequently visit Moratuwa to be The lagoon
entertained by the Carpenters, who upon short notice decorate
one of their timber boats and place it at the disposal of the.
party. By this means the -many interesting places on the
banks of the great lagoon may be reached.

The gentleness and courtesy of these people cannot be
too highly spoken of, and their appearance 'quite accords with
these qualities. Slender frames, small hands' and feet, pleas-
ing features and light brown complexions are their common
characteristics. The faces of the young Sinhalese 'women are
pleasing, their figures are remarkably .good and well-propor-
tioned, and their arms and hands are beautifully formed.' Ah'
eld maid amongst them is almofst- unknown. They marry,
very early, and are often grandmothers at thirty. After that
age they soo-* lose their graceful figures, and although they
are generally cs long-lived as Europeans, they lose their youth-
ful appearance at an earlier age.

A large estuary, unaffected by tides, which, as has been
before remarked, are almost non-existing on this coast, pro-
vides Moratuwa with its extensive and ornamental lagoon. Its

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126 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast une charm as a pleasure resort is all too little recognised by the
Moratuwa residents of Colombo ; but that it is so used may be seen from
our photographs (Plates 190 to 194). The best method of
arranging a day's picnic is to make up a considerable party ;
hire two of the large flat-bottomed boats, roofed with plaited
fronds of the cdcoanut palm, as seen in our illustrations, the one
for the party and the other for commissariat and attendants ;
to accompany these hire also a couple or more small out-
^^SS^^ canoes. With this equipment and the active goodwill
and welcome of the whole native community in the vicinity no
Henley under the brightest of summer skies could provide a
more delightful picnic.

It will be observed that Moratuwa is within the region of
cultivated cinnamon. In our peregrinations we shall have
noticed large gardens of this renowned laurel, which still
attracts cultivators even to an extent almost inducing over-
production. Indeed the supply is so fully equal to the demand
that the profit now obtainable by its cultivation is insufficient
to attract the European investor. We cannot here afford space
to trace the history of this interesting product from the time
when Moses was commanded to take 250 shekels of cinnamon
as part of the ingredients for the manufacture of holy anointing
oil for consecration purposes. Where the cinnamon of Moses
w«s grown is a matter of some doubt ; but the tree is regarded
by the highest authorities as indigenous to Ceylon where the
situation and climate are so exactly suited to it that none so fine
and delicately aromatic has been found elsewhere. It has been
referred to by many ancient classical writers and always re-
garded as a greatly prized luxury — a gift for kings. In the
markets of early times it can only have existed in small quan-
tities, for we find the price paid in ancient Rome to have been
the equivalent of £S sterling per pound weight. Its cultiva-
tion is not referred to, and there seems to have been an im-
pression even so late as the middle of the seventeenth century
that cinnamon was only good when allowed to grow in a wild
state. The cinnamon of commerce flourishes only in a small
portion of Ceylon, near the coast, from Negombo twenty miles
north of Colombo to Matara at the extreme south of the island.
Where it grows the air is moist, the rainfall copious and
frequent, and the soil dry and sandy on the surface with a
stratum of richer soil beneath. Some trees are found farther
inland in the wooded valleys that intervene between the suc-
cessive ridges of the Kandyan mountains, but they give a
coarser bark with a strong flavour which is not appreciated.
Cultivation has also been tried in the Kandyan country, but
has not resulted in any measure of success. The Portuguese
obtained their cinnamon by enslaving the Chalias— a caste of

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I ■ J^Mi P^^B^PI' ' ^^B

190-194. PICNIC PARTIES ON THE LAGOON AT MORATUWA.

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195. BUNGALOW OF MR. J. W. C. DE SOYSA AT MORATUWA.

106 LOPPINQ THE CINNAMON TREES.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

129

low social grade who had adopted the calling of cinnamon ^^^** *-•"«
searchers and peelers — and sending out gangs of them into the cinnamon
wilds in search of the coveted spice under most heartless regula-
tions framed under compact with the native kings of Cotta.
An officer was placed in charge of a gang, which numbered
515 Chalias, who had to enter the forest and remain there till
they had brought in the stipulated quantity. They were accom-
panied by drummers and guns to drive off the elephants. The
Dutch in their turn treated the wretched Chalias no better,
adopting the system that had been organised by their pre-
decessors. We see these people of the Chalia caste to-day ;
but free and happy, thriving in various free occupations that
have under the British Government brought prosperity and
wealth amongst them.

The cinnamon of Ceylon remained a government monopoly ^^^^^1^,
until 1832, when the monopoly was abandoned and the trade
thrown open to all. But the Government remained as a com-
petitor till 1840, when it divested itself of the estates,' which
passed into private hands. A mistake was made in keeping
up an intolerable duty on its export, until in 1845 ^^ was realised
that the whole industry would be ruined by foreign com-
petition and the substitute of cassia, unless it were set free,
and the belated relief was afforded. Since that reform the
export, being in private hands, has enormously increased. It
is interesting to note that the largest annual export by the
Dutch was 600,000 lbs. , worth upwards of ;£'4oo,ooo. Twenty
years ago in one season 2,000,000 lbs. were shipped, but the
price was so reduced by the additional supply that it was worth
only about ;£"2 50,000 ; and in 1903 the exports were 5,300,000
lbs., worth about ;£^i76,7oo, or eightpence per pound. Here
the limit of profitable supply has been reached. There is prac- Umu of
tically no limit to the amount that Ceylon could furnish ; and %f^y^^*
the consumer now obtains the article at the lowest possible
price under free trade conditions.

The trees in an uncultivated state grow to the height of The tree
twenty to thirty feet, and the trunk may be three feet in cir-
cumference. The leaf has not much taste, but the stalks of
the leaves taste very pleasantly of cinnamon. The ^ young
leaves are of mixed flame-colour and yellow ; after a short
time they become of a beautiful pea-green, and upon reaching
maturity they put on a dark olive tint. The blossoms are
white with a brownish tinge in the middle, and produce fruit
in the form of an acorn but more diminutive. The trees culti- •
vated to produce the cinnamon of commerce are not allowed to
grow above ten feet. The branches that are lopped off to be
barked are of about the size and thickness of an ordinary
walking stick. The trees can be grown from seeds or shoots.

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I30

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

Cinnamon
cullivation

Peeling

When they are about three years old they afford one branch
fit for cutting ; at five years they give three and at eight years
ten branches." of an inch thickness. At twelve years the tree
is in its greatest perfection, but it will flourish for a century.
The tree blossoms in January ; in April the fruit is ripe and
the cutting is done, from May to October. The. harvest opera-
Harve&ting tions are these : the Chalia goes forth into the gardens, selects
a tree the suitability of which he distinguishes by its leaves
and other characteristics. When the tree is seen to bear fruit
well it is in good health and the bark will peel without difficulty.
To prove whether it is ripe the Chalia strikes his hatchet
obliquely into the branch; if on drawing it out the bark
divides from the wood, the cinnamon has reached maturity ;
but if not it must go on growing. The sticks are gathered by
boys and tied into bundles with coir strings ; they are then
carried to the peeling stores, or in case of extensive estates,
such as those of the de Soysas at Moratuwa, they are removed
in carts.

The operation of peeling the sticks requires considerable
skill. A knife with blade of copper two and a half inches long,
something like that used by shoemakers, sharp pointed and
slightly hooked, is employed. The peeler seated on the ground
makes two parallel cuts Up and down the length of the bark,
which, after being gradually loosened with the point of the
knife, he strips off in one entire slip about half the circum-
ference of the branch. If the bark does not come away easily
the sticks are rubbed vigorously with a round piece of hard
wood which has the effect of loosening it. The ultimate object
of the methods employed is to make the bark up into quills, a
quill being a solid rod of cinnamon resembling a thin cane four
feet in length, in which form it is imported ; the pieces of bark
when stripped are therefore placed round the sticks both with
a view to preserving their shape and as a convenience for the
next operation. They are now allowed to remain for three
to six hours, when fermentation takes place and the bark is
ready for skinning, which process is accomplished in the follow-
ing manner. The Chalia sits with one foot pressed against a
piece of wood from which a round stick slopes towards his
waist. Upon this stick he lays the slip of bark, keeps it steady
with the other foot, and holding the handle of the knife in one
hand and the point of it in the other, scrapes off the skin,
which is very thin, of a brown colour on the outside and green
within. This treatment of the bark leaves only that part which
has the desired delicate taste ; it is of a pale yellow colour
and a parchment-like texture. The bark is now left to ferment
and dry, which if the weather be favourable takes about thirty
minutes. The next process is that of forming the quills. The

Skinning

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199. PANADURE.

200. WADDUWA STATION.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

133

smaller pieces are inserted into the larger, and both contracting Coast Une
still closer under the process of drying form solid rods. They
are afterwards rolled into perfect shape and made up into
bundles.

Cinnamon Oil is distilled from the chips and trimmings of
the quills. Altogether there are now about forty thousand
acres of cinnamon under cultivation in Ceylon.

Accommodation

and

conveyances

Panadure (17m. 51C.). — Panadure, a town of 2,000 in- Panadure
habitants, has many of the characteristics of Moratuwa. Its
estuaries, which are more extensive, are dotted with islands
that add an extra charm to the landscape. They are the
retreats of multitudes of water-fowl and are covered with
exquisite vegetation. The passenger should look out for the
beautiful view from the railway bridge crossing the mouth
of the river near the station. Quaint sights are frequently to
be seen here, especially when the native fishermen are dis-
porting themselves upon the piles of the fish kraals.

The station is in the heart of the town and is provided
with the usual waiting-rooms. There is an hotel quite close
to it called the Station View Hotel, and a good rest-house
about half a mile distant. Previous notice should be given if
food is required. Horse carriages and bullock hackeries can
be obtained near the station at very moderate rates.

The chief local agricultural products are cocoanuts, areca i-ocai products
nuts, plantains, cinnamon, tea, rubber, paddy, betel and
pepper. Arrack is distilled in great quantity and contributes.'
the greater portion of the freight to the railway here, about
eighty tons a month being despatched, and twenty-five tons
of vinegar.

The visitor to Panadure will find the townspeople engaged
in the manufacture of tea chests, brass and silver work,
coir rope and matting, agricultural implements, furniture and
carriages.

The boys and girls of Panadure have excellent, educational
opportunities no matter what their creed. St. John's English
High School (Church of England) is in the hands of an accom-
plished master, while the vernacular schools of the Roman
Catholics, Wesley ans and Buddhists afford every facility that
is needed by the various classes. There are three Christian
churches and two Buddhist wihares.

There are two interesting historical events that are asso-
ciated in the popular mind with Panadure. Both were battles.
The first occurred in the twelfth century, when Alekeswera,-a
famous general of King Parakrama Bahu of, Polonnaruwa,
met the Indian invaders near Panadure and defeated them.
The second belongs to the struggle for supremacy between the

Manufactures

Schools and
churches

Historical
incidents

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134

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

CoMt Lin« Dutch and Portuguese in the seventeenth century. Marching

Patiadure three thousand strong from Kalutara to Colombo, the Dutch
had safely crossed the Panadure River, when their progress
was disputed by seven hundred picked troops of the Portuguese
who had been employed in the wars against the Kandyan
King. The latter were surrounded and five hundred of them
slain ; the survivors succeeded in reaching Colombo again, but
in such sorry plight that half of them died of their wounds.

sport Wild fowl in prodigious numbers, and the reptile denizens

of the lake, its islands and the luxuriant woods that surround
it, provide good sport for week-end parties from Colombo.

Ratnapura A most enjoyable trip may be made by coach from Pana-

dure to Ratnapura (forty-two miles), returning by boat upon
the Kaluganga or Black River to Kalutara (see Kalutara).

Wadduwa Wadduwa (21m. 37c.). — Wadduwa is a village of about

3,000 inhabitants. It owes its name, said to be derived from
wakd, curve, and duwa, island, to the physical circumstance
that it is surrounded by a narrow canal. The station, of which
we give an illustration (Plate 200), deals only with passenger
traffic. It is situated in the village, which is entirely em-
bowered in palms. Its produce is cocoanuts, cinnamon and
betel, and its manufactures, coir rope and matting, and to a
small extent brass work and silver and gold jewellery. There
is no special attraction or accommodation for visitors.

Kalutara

The bridge

The Kalu
Ganga

Kalutara North (26m. 6c.) and Kalutara South
(27m. 28c.). — Kalutara is a large town of considerable im-
portance, in a beautiful situation at the mouth of the Kalu-
ganga or Black River. It boasts of two railway stations which
serve the north and south of the town respectively. One is
on each side of the river, which is spanned by a magnificent
iron bridge.

This bridge is 1,200 feet long and is composed of spans
of 100 feet. Both *the Colombo-Galle road and the railway
are carried by this bridge. The entrance to it from Kalutara
North, where road and rail converge, is shown by plate 201.
The first half reaches an island in the middle of the river which
is shown in plate • 202, and the second section depicted by
plate 203 clears the remaining portion of the river and enters
Kalutara South, the older and more important part of the
town. From this bridg^ we get t)ur view (Plate 204) showing
the quaint boats consisting of two dug-outs joined by a plat-
form or deck upon which is built a house with plaited fronds
of the cocoanut palm. By means of these boats the native
trades between Kalutara and Ratnapura, the city of gems,
about fifty miles up-river. Perhaps this is the finest stretch

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901. ENTRANOe TO KALUTARA BRIDGE.

THC ISLAND BCTWeCN THE FIRST AND SECOND SECTIONS Of THE BRIOOC.

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903. KALUTARA

204. THE KALU OANQA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

137

of river scenery in Ceylon ; but the visitor who wishes to
explore it will drive to Ratnapura from Avisawela station on
the Kelani Valley line (twenty-six miles) or from Panadure
station on this line (forty-two miles) and sail down the river
to Kalutara. To go up the river by boat is a long and weari-
some business owing to the rapidity and volume of the stream.
Both routes pass through scenery of indescribable loveliness.
If the Panadure one is chosen the beautiful Bolgoda lake is
crossed by a bridge soon after leaving the village. At the
tenth mile Horana is reached. Here there is a good rest-house
built amidst the ruins of an ancient Buddhist monastery and
near a large and interesting temple which should receive a
visit. A bronze candlestick, eight feet high, and of remark-
able native workmanship, will be pointed out to the stranger.
Nambapanne is reached at the twenty-eighth mile. Here
there is also a rest-house pleasantly situated. At the thirty-
second mile we come to Kiri Ela and the road follows the
general course of the river. At the fortieth mile, a couple of
miles before Ratnapura, we shall find the Maha Saman Dewale,
a Buddhist temple, which is the owner of a large extent of
landed property. The relics enshrined in it are worth inspec-
tion. We shall also notice in the courtyard a slab carved in
bas-relief representing a Portuguese knight in armour killing
a Sinhalese man whom he has trampled under his feet. For
exquisite scenery many award the palm to Ratnapura. Cer-
tain it is that no traveller can be disappointed ; for here are
obtainable distant views of great sublimity in mountain walls
clothed with forest rising thousands of feet in sheer per-
pendicular; and in the nearer landscape well-watered valleys
and undulating plains may be seen teeming with every form
of tropical flora. Ratnapura is also the centra of the gemming
industry, which is entirely in native hands. Here the traveller
can obtain an insight into the methods by which the hidden
treasures of the earth are brought to light. Here under our
feet lie the gems that will some day. adorn future generations
of the wealthy. The discovery of these precious stones is an
unceasing source of considerable wealth. The gem-digger
comes upon a sapphire with the possible result that a thousand
pounds from the' coffers of the Rajah in a distant land is
transferred to the sum of wealth in Ceylon, but such valuable
finds are few and far between. Genuine stones there are in
abundance, but those that are flawless and of approved tint
are the prizes of the industry.

The sail down from Ratnapura to Kalutara is a perfect
rhapsody of delight; the shores are resplendent with colour
and beauty of trees and flowers ; now a temple lifts its head
above the foliage; now a village encompassed by groves of

Coast Une

Trip to
Ratnapura

HorarM

Nambapanne

Ratnapura

Gems

The Kalu
Ganf^a from
Ratnapura to
Kalutara

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138

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

Attractions of
Kalutara

Local
accommodation

Conveyances

Sport

Fruit

Picturesque
features

tamarinds, jaks, talipots and kitool. Aiong the banks on
either sitie wave the yellow stems and feathery leaves of the
bamboos, while the broad and rippling stream bears us on its
bosom in' one long dream of loveliness for the whole 'fifty miles
of our journey.

The enjoyment of the natural beauties of Kalutara is not
spoilt by the presence of a teeming populatipn. The well laid
out and park-like appearance of the town as approached from
the southern end of the bridge gives a pleasant first impres-
sion, and one hears without surprise that the place has enjoyed a
great reputation as a sanitarium from the time of the Dutch,
by whom it was held in great esteem. The remains of the
old fort (Plate 206) which they built upon a natural eminence
at the mouth of the river are conspicuous as we leave the
bridge. Upon this site now stands the new residence of the
chief Government official of the district, and immediately below
it are the Kachcheri or Government Offices (Plate 211). The
Anglican Church of St. John (Plate 205) comes next into view ;
it was built in 1876 and was the first new church consecrated
by the present Metropolitan Bishop of Calcutta when Bishop
of Colombo. A short distance farther on we find ourselves in
the heart of the town, where the law courts are seen on the
right and the police station on the left embowered in glorious
foliage (Plate 207). A new rest-house of two storeys with every
convenience and comfort for the traveller faces the sea and
esplanade near the law courts. It has ample accommodation
for six visitors — six bedrooms and six bath-rooms, in addition
to a spacious dining-room and broad verandahs. Excellent
catering will be found, no previous notice being required here.
There are also five native hotels in the town. Carriages can
be obtained at the rates of one rupee (is. 4d.) for the first
hour and 25 cents (4d.) for each subsequent hour. The charge
for long journeys in visiting distant tea and rubber estates is
50 cents (8d.) per mile. Bullock hackeries can be hired at
the rate of 25 cents (4d.) per mile. Near the rest-house is
Kalutara South railway station.

Very good snipe-shooting can be had in the neighbourhood
during the season November to February, particularly at Pana-
pitya, about three miles distant.

Kalutara is a good district for fruit, and as we proceed
onwards through the town we shall not fail to notice the opeij
stalls (Plate 210), laden \^ith large supplies of mangosteens,
mangoes, pineapples and rambuttans.

The Dutch houses wfth their double verandahs (Plate 209)
add decidedly to the picturesqueness of the roads, which reaches
its highest development at Kalutara. Most charming is an
inlet of the sea which washes the embankment of the railway

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305. CHURCH OF ST. JOHN.

see. REMAINS OF DUTCH FORT.

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907. ROAO SCCNC IN KALUTARA.

308. VIEW FROM TEAK BUNGALOW.

30tt. DUTCH HOUSE IN KALUTARA.

2ia FRUIT BAZAAR.

311. THC KACHOHCRI.

213. BASKCT-MAKINa

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

141

as it leaves the town (Plate 221). The road and rail h^e run Coast Une
alongside of each other. ' A short distance beyond the scene
in our picture we come 'upon the curious and beautiful tree
illustrated in plate 213, a fine old banyan {Ficus indica), which
extends to a great height and has thrown an arch across the
road. The upper portion harbours a mass of parasitic plants
and ferns of exuberant growth, the whole forming a lofty
rampart of vegetation frohi which depend the filaments and
aerial roots of the parent tree in graceful and dainty tracery.
Our plate shows only the lower portion of this wonderful tree.

We now turn off the main road and drive ' through the
back streets, although that somewhat disparaging epithet is
hardly suitable as applied to lanes where slender palms with
sunlit crowns form a lofty canopy from which garlands hang
in natural grace over every humble dwelling ; where even the
palm-thatched roofs are often decorated by the spontaneous
growth of the gorgeous climbing ** Neyangalla '* lily. In this
fairyland we strike the note of human interest; for here is
Nonahamy seated at the entrance of her dwelling engaged in
the gentle occupation of weaving the famous Kalutara baskets, xaiutara
These dainty little articles are made in numberless shapes and baskets
sizes, and for a variety of useful purposes, from the betel case
and cigar case to the larger receptacle for the odds and ends of
madame's fancy work. Those of the ordinary rectangular sort
are made in nests of twelve or more, fitted into one another for
convenience in transport, and the visitor seldom comes away
without a nest or two of these most useful and' very moderatdy-
priced articles. The process of manufacture is simple : chil-
dren are sent out into the jungle to cut off the thin fibres
from the fronds of the palm illustrated in plate 214; these are
split into narrow slips and dyed with vegetable dyes black,-
yellow and red, and then woven by the skilful fingers of girls.

At Kalutara we are in the midst of another industry which Toddy ami
is of immense proportions and productive of a large amount "'^'^^'^
of revenue — the distillation of arrack. We shall have noticed
the apparent barrenness of the cocoanut trees in the extensive
groves through which we have passed. This peculiarity is due
not to the inability of the palms to produce fine fruit, but
results from the somewhat unnatural culture, by which they
are made to yield drink in place of food. Each tree extends
beneath its crown of leaves a long and solid spathe in which
are cradled bunches of ivory-like blossoms bearing the embryo
nuts. When the branch is half shot, the toddy-drawer ascends
the tree by the aid of a loop of fibre passed round his ankles,
giving security to the grip of his feet, which owing to their
innocence of shoes have retained all their primitive prehensile
endowment, and proceeds to bind the spathe tightly in a

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142

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coa«t Une

Toddy and
arrack

Local
products

Plumbago

bandage of yOung leaf; he then mercilessly belabours it with
a bludgeon of hard wood. This assault is repeated daily for
a week or more till the sap begins to appq^r. A portion of
the flower-stalk is then cut off, with the result that the stump
begins to bleed. The toddy-drawer now suspends beneath each
maltreated blossom, a small earthenware chattie or gourd to
receive the juice. This liquor is toddy. Day by day he ascends
the tree and pours the liquid fropi the chattie into a larger
vessel which he carries suspended from his waist. In many
groves of/cocoanut palms there is a network of ropes reaching
from tree to tree ; for our drawer is a funambulist of some skill,
and even on a slack rope he will frequently make his way
safely to the next tree; but not always. Sometimes he falls,
and as the ropes are from sixty to ninety feet above the ground
the .result is always fatal. The number of such accidents
recorded annually is upwards of three hundred. '* Toddy" is
probably a corruption of the Sanscrit tari, palm liquor; but
doubtless a Scotsman is entitled to claim the credit of the
application of the term in its European shape to the wine of
his country. Toddy is in great favour amongst the natives as
a beverage, and when taken at an early stage of its existence
is^ said to be pleasant and wholesome ; but after fermentatio;i
has!made progress it is intoxicating. Toddy may be regarded
as the* wine and arrack the brandy into which most of the
former is distilled. If the visitor drives to Teak Bungalow,
from the garden of which we get our view (Plate 208), he will
see quite close to it an arrack-store that will create some little
astonishment. It contains no fewer than twenty-seven casks
of arrack, each containing five thousand gallons. These giant
vats are of ordindry barrel shape and were made by native
coopers. The toddy and arrack rents and licences bring
upwards of ;^3oo, 000' annually to the revenue of the colony.

During the afterglow that prevails for a few minutes be-
tween sundown and complete darkness we may see thousands
of so-called flying foxes coming south over the Kalu Ganga.
They are really huge bats with reddish skins and wings that
stretch four feet from tip to tip.

The chief local products are cocoanuts, tea, rubber, paddy^
betel, cinnanjon, mangosteens ^nd plumbago. There are about
thirty plumbago mines in the district turning out upwards of
a thousand tons a year. There are also seventeen thousand
acres of tea and upwards of four thousand acres of rubber.

Although the plumbago mines are not a great attraction
to the ordinary visitor, they are not without features of interest
to those who care to inspect them. These mines, or pits as
they ' are ' locally called, are for the most part worked in a
primitive fashion. The quaintness of the methods adopted,

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217. VILLAGE SCENE ON THE COLOMBO-GALLE ROAD

2ia THE MOMENTS BETWEEN SUNDOWN AND SUDDEN DARK.

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I-
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.THE- BOOK OF CEYLON

145

Plumbago

and the sight of the mineral Itself as it lies in its natur-^' ^ed,
will repay the curious for their • trouble. A wide vei ^l the
mineral with its crystals radiating from various centrcb is a
thing of considerable beauty.. This usef.ul mineral, known by
the various names of plumbago, graphite, and blacklead, is
merely a form of carbon, and is found in various parts of the
world, notably in Bavaria, the Ural Mountains, Mexico and
Canada, but nowhere of such excellence and with its refractory
qualities in such perfection as in Ceylon. For this reason the
Ceylon article is in great demand for the manufacture of
crucibles. Its uses in the manufacture of lead pencils and as
a lubricator are perhaps more familiar. The export, principally ^'« «"»
to the United Kingdom and America, in the year 1906 amounted
to about fifty thousand tons. The polish communicated by
plumbago dust is so brilliant that the- unclothed natives moving
amongst it acquire the appearance of animated figures of bright sorting
steel. An interesting sight is that depicted in plate 219, where
a large number of men and women are engaged in sorting and
grading the mineral for shipment, carefully picking out all
foreign substances. The industry jgives employment to upwards
of thirty thousand people, and being a,lmost entirely in the
hands of the natives, it has during the last twenty years, owing
to the great extension of the use of metal-mcltlng crucibles,
brought very considerable wealth to the community ; in fact, the
production is now exceeding ;^" 1,000,000 per annum. Evidence
of this great increase of wealth amongst the natives of Ceylon
is visible on every hand ; palatial residences being not the least
of the signs of their prosperity. Wars and rumours of war
greatly stimulate the plumbago market on account of the
necessity for crucibles in the manufacture of* munitions ; thus
at the end of the nineteenth century the price almost doubled
the average, reaching no less than ;^^65 per ton. It is now
(1907) £25 *^ jCa^ ?or the higher grades, the lower grades
running from ;^io to £2^ per ton. Although the principal
mines are situated south of Coloftibo, from'Kalutara to Weli-
gama, there are successful mines in the Kurunegala district of
the North-Western Province and also in the" Kegalle and Ratna-
pura districts of the province of Sabaragamiiwa ; but there are
none in the northern or eastern divisions of the island. Some
of the larger mines are worked by the aid of machinery and
reach a depth of some four to five hundred feet ; others are
mere holes opened by villagers who have accidentally stumbled
upon plumbago beneath the soil of their gardens or fields. No
European could easily descend' the shafts of the more primitive
pits, which are provided rherdy with rough bamboo ladders
tied with coir or jungle ropes, and very slippery from the dust
of the graphite. The bare-footed native, however, with his
K

Wealth ilu*
to plumbago

Situation of
the mines

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

Katukurunda

Paiyagala

Railway
scenery

Conveyattces

Objects 0/
interest

Local products

basket swarms up and down with no thought of difficulty or
danger* The Government levies on all plumbago shipped an
export duty at the rate of five rupees per ton which yields, in
the present condition of the industry, about ;^^ 10,000 per annum
to the revenue of the colony.

Katukurunda (29m. 8c.). — Katukurunda is a village of
about 2,000 inhabitants who are accommodated by the railway
with a passenger station. There is no rest-house or hotel.
The cocoanut palm^ is the staple product, while the manufac-
tures are limited to the spinning of coir yarn, and the fashion-
ing of articles of brass-work.

Paiyagala North (31m. i6c.) and Paiyagala South (31m.
75c.). — Paiyagala North is simply a passenger station without
waiting-rooms and there is no other accommodation at or near
it. Paiyagala South is of greater importance and does a con-
siderable business in goods as well as passengers. These
stations serve a population of about 7,000, the inhabitants of
a group of villages including Induruwegoda, Paleyangoda,
Kachchagoda, Gabadagoda, Pothuwila, Parranikkigoda, Goma-
ragoda, Pahalagoda, Mahagammedda and Veragala. The
names of the villages from which the stations take their names
are Maha-Paiyagala to the south and Kuda-Paiyagala to the
north. These villages are almost as picturesque as their
names. The level crossing (Plate 224) where the Colombo-Galle
road passes over the railway is a charming subject for the
artist; and the avenues from the station both north and south
. (Plates 223 and 225) are especially beautiful and give a very
good idea of the groves of palms in which these stations of
, the coast line nestle.

Visitors to Paiyagala should send on a servant to engage
hackeries, which are not always in readiness here. They can
however generally be obtained, the rate being 25 cents a mile.

The Buddhist temple of Weragalakanda, a Wihare with
Dagaba and Pansala, about a mile and a half distant, is
situated on the top. of a hill commanding exquisite views of
the country around. Other temples in the vicinity are the
Duwe Pansala and Wihare, the temple of the late High Priest
Indasabha, the founder of the Buddhist sect called Ramanna
Nickaya; and the Gomarakande temple.

Cocoanuts, toddy, arrack, paddy, cinnamon and areca
nuts are the chief products. Tea and rubber are also sent to
this station from estates a few miles distant. Fishing is an
important industry, and Paiyagala South supplies Colombo
with about five tons of fish a month. Some indication of the
occupation of the people may be gathered from a recital of the
railway freights, which average in a year 210 tons of arrack,

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220b UTTLE LUXURIES FOR PASSERS-BY.

M3. PArVAQALA SOUTH.

224. PAIYAOALA CROSSINa

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a3«. BERUWALA BAY.

23a COAST NCAR BERUWALA.

231. riSHINO BOATS AT BERUWALA.

232. BERUWALA BAY, .... ,^

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

149

90 tons of plumbago, 75 tons of timber, 40 tons of tea, 30 tons Coast Line
of coperah, 50 tons of areca nuts and ip tons of co*. varn.
There is also a considerable trade in cabook stone foi build-
ing purposes.

Maggona (33m. IOC.). — Maggona is a village of about ^«w®n*
3,500 inhabitants, mostly of the fisher caste. It affords no
special attractions or accommodation for visitors. The Roman
Catholics have made it a mission station of considerable im-
portance, where they have a large reformatory as well as
industrial and other schools.

Beruwala (35m. 7c.). — Beruwala, or Barbery n as it is Beruwaia
often called, is situated upon one of the most picturesque bits
of coast in Ceylon. Its charming bay, always lined with quaint
craft and busy with the operations of the fishermen (Plates 228
and 229), extends to a headland of considerable prominence, off
which lies the ^Island of Welmaduwa. Here will be seen one
of the Imperial lighthouses built in the form of a round tower
of grey gneiss rock. The structure is 122 feet high and its
light can be seen at a distance of nineteen miles. The traveller
who wishes to see the beauties of the bay should make his
way along the road shown in plate 232 and hire an outrigger
canoe to visft the island. Should he be interested in the
methods of fishing employed by the natives (Plate 228) this will
prove an admirable place to watch their operations. The
Beruwala bazaar (Plate 226) is a particularly lively one and
ministers to a large population ; for the villages here are
grouped rather densely together. We illustrate the railway
station (Plate 227), which it will be noticed is laid out for both
passengers and goods. We have now reached a part of the
south-west coast where the inhabitants are less purely Sin-
halese. The Moors about here form a considerable portion of
the population and their ethnology may be of some interest to
the stranger. The term Moor or Moorman in Ceylon properly
indicates a native Mohammedan, although it is popularly sup-
posed to mean an Indo-Arab. It has, however, been clearly
shown by the Hon. Mr. Ramanathan that the name was first
given by the Portuguese to those natives whom they found
at Beruwala and other places professing the Mohammedan
religion, and who were immigrant converts to that faith from
Southern India. They were in fact Tamils. The same
authority states that Ceylon Mohammedans generally admit
Beruwala to be the first of all their settlements, dating from
about the year 1350. ** They consisted largely of a rough-and-
ready set of bold Tamil converts, determined to make them-
selves comfortable by the methods usual among unscrupulous
adventurers. Having; clean-shaven heads and straggling

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line beards ; wearing a costume which was not wholly Tamil, nor
yet Arabic or African even in part; speaking a low T^mil
interlarded with Arabic expressions; slaughtering cattle 'with
their own hands and eating them; given to predatory habits;
and practising after their own fashion the rites of the Moham-
medan faith — they must indeed have struck the Sinhalese al
first as a strange people deserving of the epithet * barbarians.' '*

Giving due weight to the cumulative evidence derived from a
consideration of their social customs, physical features and lan-
guage, it is considered that this large community in Ceylon, number-
ing upwards of 200,000, are not of Arab but of Tamil descent.*

This historical reference to the Moors interests us at this
point, not only because the race still flourishes at its original
settlement, but because as we proceed further south we shall
also meet with them in increasing numbers. They are always
keen traders and especially busy in the bazaars, where their
little stores display a surprising variety of goods from Bir-
mingham as well as those of local manufacture.

Alutgrama

Bcntota

Alutgama (38m. 28c.). — Alutgama station serves a popu-
lous district. It will be seen from plate 235 that it has
considerable accommodation both for goods and passengers,
including a refreshment room. The products of the district
despatched by rail are considerable and include about 250 tons
of plumbago, 75 tons of tea, 15 tons of coral lime and 25 tons
of arrack monthly. We are, however, more interested in the
circumstance that Alutgama is the station for Bentota, a village
blest with such' beautiful surroundings that it has always been
in favour as a quiet honeymoon resort. The rest-house is one
of the coolest on the coast ; it is spacious, salubrious and
prettily situated on a point of the beach where the Bentota
River forms its junction with the sea. The opportunities for
quiet seclusion, a table well supplied with all the luxuries of
the province, including oysters, for which the place has a local
renown, and the exquisite scenery of the district attract many
visitors. The crowded market and village bazaar which is
seen in our plate is near the railway station. The road scenery
is especially beautiful as may be gathered from plate 233, which
shows how the bread-fruit trees here flourish amongst the
palms. But the great attraction of the place to the visitor
is the river, illustrated by plates 236 to 240. Boats may be
hired quite close to the rest-house, which is situated near the
railway bridge seen in plate 237. It is best to engage a double-
canoe with platform. On this deck comfortable seats, or even
chairs, can be placed, and if an early start is made, before the

* See "The Eihnolojjy of the Moors of Ceylon " by the Hon. P. Ramanatban in
the Joirnal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society. Vol. X., No. 36.

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333. ALUTQAMA.

234. ALUTQAMA.

239. ALUTOAMA STATION.

236. MNTOTA RIVCR.

FiSHINa BENTOTA RIVER.

240. FISHING. BENTOTA RIVER. ^

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241. ANCIENT DOOR-FRAME OF GRANlTe,^^ \iiiimi-

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

153

sun's rays become very powerful, a trip of some three or four coast Line
miles up the river will be found to be a delightful experience. Bentota river
The banks are densely clothed with the most beautiful of
tropical flora ; but there are also human objects of interest, and
we shall not go far before we observe tawny little maidens
with large black eyes wading near the banks. They appear to
be intently gazing into the water, with their right hands ex-
tended and motionless. Closer inspection shows that they each
have an ekel, which is a thin, reed about three feet long like
a bristle of whalebone ; at the end a noose is attached made
from fibre of the plantain leaf. They arc prawn fishing; and
with the noose they tickle the feeler of the prawn, who whips
round and is held near the eye. It is the prettiest and most
dainty of the many curious methods of fishing in Ceylon.
Another primitive way of taking fish is illustrated in plate 240.
Here fishermen have laid their nets from place to place and
are now engaged in frightening the fish into them by means
of long ropes fringed with leaves from the cocoanut tree. At
night they lay some hundreds of yards of this rope along the
bottom and early in the morning, from two canoes placed at
a distance from one another, they haul it up, this .causing the
leaves to wave in the water and frighten the fish into the nets.
Farther up the river will be noticed the fish kraals or traps
(Plate 239). It is very amusing to watch the fishermen diving
down into the traps and bringing up fish. Here is also the
merchant who appears on the scene in his little outrigger to
purchase the haul.

We have before observed that the tide is so slight as hardly
to affect the height of the rivers, but nevertheless the water is
rendered brackish for about two miles.

Bentota lays claim to several of the most ancient Buddhist
Wihares in Ceylon. One of these, the Galapata, is situated AmiquUies
on the south banks about three miles up the river,- and should
be visited by the tourist. It contains some interesting relics
of early times, amongst them a stone door or window frame,
said to date from the reign of King Dutthagamini, b.c. 161.
The carved scrollwork upon it is the finest of the kind that
I have met with. I found it lying upon the ground, and
almost buried by ddhris of rough stones. With some difficulty
most of them were removed, 'and I obtained the photograph
(Plate 241).

Induruwa (41m. 54c.). — This is the latest railway station indaruwa
opened on the coast line. It serves a population of about
3,cxx>, who are mostly cultivators of cocoanuts, paddy, areca
nuts, plantains, and cinnamon. There are no special attrac-
tions for visitors.

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Coast Line
Ko8go6n

Local products

Manufactures

Balapitlya

KosGODA (45m. 29c.). — At Kosgoda we alight upon a
platform adorned with flowering shrubs and plants of beautiful
foliage. The village and its neighbouring hamlets contain a
population of about 12,000, spread over an area of thirty
square miles. There is no special accommodation for travellers
at or near the station, but at Uragasmanhandiya, three and
three-quarter miles inland, there is a Government rest-house,
where two bedrooms and food supplies may be found if
previous notice is given to the rest-house keeper. Hackeries,
single and double bullock-Krarts, and horse carriages can be
hired at Kosgoda.

To the west of the village the land is charmingly undulated,
and exhibits a beautiful panorama of hills interspersed with
paddy fields. In this direction, at about the third mile, is
Uragasmanhandiya, for some years the Volunteer Camp of
Exercise. The site was chosen by the late Colonel Clarke
on account of its combined features of a suitable parade and
training ground and picturesque surroundings.

There are many traces of ancient civilisation in the neigh-
bourhood, among them the ruins of an ancient Walauwa,
dating from the year 1600, besides about a dozen other old
Walauwas. The present inhabitants are mostly Sinhalese
and of the Salagama caste.

Cocoanuts, bread fruit, areca nuts, betel, pepper, cinna-
mon, jak, citronella, and rubber are all cultivated here. Copra
to the amount of about 250 tons, cinnamon 100 tons, coir
yarn 200 tons, plumbago 60 tons, and arrack 40 tons per
annum are despatched by rail.

The manufactures of Kosgoda include basket-making, lace,
silver and brass work, knives, carts, skilfully carved furniture,
bricks, earthenware, copra, cocoanut oil, coir yarn, coir ropes,
various products from the kitul palm, ekel and coir brooms,
citronella oil, cinnamon oil, and native medicines.

From the above account it will be apparent that the visitor
who desires acquaintance with Sinhalese life and pursuits in
their most unsophisticated state should take advantage of the
opportunities offered by Kosgoda.

Balapitiva (49m. 63c.). — ^The railway station of Balapitiya
serves a local population of about 1,000. For the visitor
staying at Bentota or Ambalangoda on account of sport or for
the sake of beautiful scenery, it also provides facilities for
exploring the shores and islands of the extensive lagoon that
lies at its feet. This grand stretch of water, flanked by
mountain scenery and dotted with a hundred islets, ranks
very high amongst the many natural beauties of the southern
province. It is but three miles from Ambalangoda and "'even

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242. SINHALESE CHILDREN, SOUTH-WEST COAST.

243. KOSQOOA STATION.

244. BATHING PLACE. AMBALANOOOA.

349. AMBALANOOOA.

348, MAHA WIHARE.

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247. COAST AT AMBALANGODA.

248. COAST NEAR DODANDUWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

157

from Bentota, and, thanks to the railway, is so easy of access Co«»t Um
that it should be visited by all tourists who stay at the rest-
houses of those places.

Ambalangoda (52m. 62c.). — Ambalangoda invites the Ambaiansoda
European resident in Ceylon and the visitor alike as a pleasant
seaside place where good accommodation and excellent food
can be obtained, and where the rare luxury of bathing in the
open sea can be enjoyed in perfect security. Our illustration
(Plate 245) portrays the road that leads to the rest-house.
This hostelry is one of the most comfortable of its kind and
possesses eight bedrooms. The spacious enclosure surround- Sta bathing
ing slopes to the coast, where a natural barrier of rocks at
once protects the bather from the attacks of sharks and pre-
vents him from being carried out to sea by dangerous currents.
Our illustration (Plate 247) will give the reader some idea of
the natural features of the bath and its surroundings.

The visitor will find other attractions, too, at Ambalangoda, Local products
which with the surrounding hamlets has a population of 25,006
people, engaged mostly in agricultural pursuits. Cocoanuts,.
tea, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products.
The produce despatched by rail amounts to about 600 tons a
month. There is a Maha Wihare (Plate 246) quite near the Maha wihare
railway station, which is worthy of attention. Some sport in
snipe and teal is available from September to December upon
the paddy fields, far inland, and near the village upon the
beautiful lagoon about six hundred acres in extent.

In the rest-house grounds may be seen a relic of the Dutch
occupation of Ambalangoda. It was probably a court-house
and might still do duty as such ; but nowadays the magisterial
work of this district is carried on at Balapitiya.

HiKKADUWA (60m. 14c.). — This station serves a popula-
tion of about 4,000, engaged in the cultivation of cocoanuts,
areca nuts, tea, paddy and cinnamon ; and in the preparation
of coral lime, plumbago mining, and the manufacture of
coir yarn, lace, drum frames, and metal bowls used by
Buddhist monks. The despatch of products by rail amounts
to upwards of 60 tons a month, most of which is plumbago
and coral lime.

Hlkluduwa

DoDANDUWA (64m. i3C.).-7-Dodanduwa is famous for its Dodanduwa
plumbago and coir rope. It supplies annually about 1,000
tons of the former and 300 tons of the latter. It possesses an
asset of natural beauty in Ratgama Lake, which is quite close
to the station. In the fields bordering this lake snipe shooting
is very good during the latter months of the year.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Qlntoto

Qalle

Coast Line About SIX miles west of Dodanduwa lies Baddegama,
renowned as the . oldest . mission station of the English
Church. The Church Missionary Society has the honour of
having made the first effort here, and the results have been
most encouraging.

GiNTOTA (68m. 28c.). — Gintota is a village of about 2,500
inhabitants, most of whom are occupied in cocoanut planting
and the manufacture of coir rope f A)m the fibre of the cocoanut
husk. Its interest to the visitor, however, centres in the lovely
scenery of the Ginganga, which here flows into the sea. The
source of this river is near Adam^s Peak. In its course, which
is fifty-nine miles long, it drains no less than four hundred
square miles of land.

Galle (71m. 68c.). — Galle, the chief town of the Southern
Province and seat of provincial government, claims consider-
able attention, combining as it does a wealth of historical
interest with great natural advantages. For upwards of a
thousand years before Colombo assumed any degree of mer-
cantile importance, Galle was known to the eastern world as
a famous emporium. The places hitherto visited by us have
for the most part greatly changed in character during the last
fifty years, and the descriptions of them by earlier writers
would not hold good to-day. But this venerable port of the
south is a striking exception, and the visitor will find very
little at variance with Sir Emerson Tennent's account, published
in the middle of the century. -

** No traveller fresh, from Europe,** says Tennent, ** will
ever part with the impression left by his first gaze upon
tropical scenery as it is displayed in the bay and the wooded
hills that encircle it; for, although Galle is surpassed both in
grandeur and beauty by places afterwards seen in the island,
still the feeling of admiration and wonder called forth by its
loveliness remains vivid and unimpaired. If, as is frequently
the case, the ship approaches the land at daybreak, the view
recalls, but in an intensified degree, the emotions excited in
childhood by the slow rising of the curtain in a darkened
theatre to disclose some magical triumph of the painter's fancy,
in all the luxury of colouring and all the glory of light. The
sea, blue as sapphire, breaks upon the fortified rocks which
form the entrance to the harbour; the headlands are bright
with verdure; and the yellow strand is shaded by palm trees
that incline towards the sea, and bend their crowns above the
water. The shore is gemmed with flowers, the hills behind
are draped with forests of perennial green ; and far in the
distance rises the zone of purple hills, above which towers the
sacred mountain of Adam's Peak.

Picfuresque
features

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H
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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

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** But the interest of the place is not confined to the mere
loveliness of its scenery. Galle is by far the most venerable
emporium of foreign trade now existing in the universe ; it
was the resort of merchant ships at the earliest dawn of com-
merce, and it is destined to be the centre to which will here-
after converge all the rays of navigation, intersecting the Indian
Ocean, and connecting the races of Europe and Asia." This
prophecy, however, has been falsified by the rise of Colombo,
whose artificial harbour has already enabled it to usurp the
position marked out for its older rival.

Tennent's account of the commercial importance of Galle
in early times is of great interest: ** Galle was the * Kalah *
at which the Arabians in the reign of Haroun Alraschid met
the junks of the Chinese, and brought back gems, silks, and
spices from Serendib to Bassora. The Sabajans, centuries
before, included Ceylon in the rich trade which they prosecuted
with India, and Galle was probably the furthest point eastward
ever reached by the Persians, by the Greeks of the Lower
Empire, by the Romans, and by the Egyptian mariners of
Berenice, under the Ptolemies. But an interest deeper still
attaches to this portion of Ceylon, inasmuch as it seems more
than probable that the long-sought locality of Tarshish may
be found to be identical with that of Point de Galle.

** A careful perusal of the Scripture narrative suggests the
conclusion that there were two places at least to which the
Phoenicians traded, each of which bore the name of Tarshish :
one to the north-west, whence they brought tin, iron, and
lead; and another to the east, which suppliod' them with ivory
and gold. Bochart was not the first who rejected the idea of
the latter being situated at the mouth of Guadalquiver, and
intimated that it must be sought for in the direction of India ;
but he was the first who conjectured that Ophir was Kou-
dramalie, on the north-west of Ceylon, and that the Eastern
Tarshish must have been somewhere in the vicinity of Cape
Comorin. His general inference was correct and irresistible
from the tenor of the sacred writings; but from want of
topographical knowledge, Bochart was in error as to the
actual localities. Gold is not to be found at Koudramalie ; and
Comorin, being neither an island nor a place of trade, does
not correspond to the requirements of Tarshish. Subsequent
investigation has served to establish the claim of Malacca to
be the golden land of Solomon, and Tarshish, which lay in
the track between the Arabian Gulf and Ophir, is recognisable
in the great emporium of Ceylon. The ships intended for the
voyage were built by Solomon at * Ezion-geber on the shores
of the Red Sea,' the rowers coasted along the shores of Arabia
and the Persian Gulf, headed by an east wind.
L

Coast Line

Galle

Galle in
ancient times

Tarshish

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line

voith Tanhish

** Tarshish, the port for which they were bound, would
Gaiie's identity appear to havc been situated in an island, governed by kings,
""'* '^""'^"^ ^^^ carrying on an extensive foreign trade. The voyage
occupied three years in going and returning from the Red Sea,
and the cargoes brought home to Ezion-geber consisted of gold
and silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks. Gold could have been
shipped at Galle from the vessels which brought it from Ophir ;
silver spread into plates, which is particularised by Jeremiah
as an export of Tarshish, is one of the substances on which
the sacred books of the Singhalese are even now inscribed;
ivory is found in Ceylon, and must have been both abundant
and full grown there before the discovery of gunpowder led
to the wanton destruction of elephants; apes are indigenous
to the island, and peafowl are found there in numbers. It is
very remarkable, too, that the terms by which these articles
are designated in the Hebrew Scriptures are identical with
the Tamil names, by which some of them are called in Ceylon
to the present day : thus tiikeyim, which is rendered * {pea-
cocks * in one version, may be recognised in tokei, the modern
name for these birds; kapi, *apes,* is the same in both
languages, and the Sanskrit ibha,^ ' ivory,' is identical with
the Tamil ibam,

** Thus by geographical position, by indigenous productions,
and by' the fact of its having been from time immemorial the
resort of .merchant ships from Egypt, Arabia, and Persia on
the one side, and India, Java, and China on the other, Galle
seems «to present a combination of every particular essential
to determine the problem §o long undecided in biblical dia-
lectics, and thus to present data for inferring its identity with
the- Tarshish of the sacred historians, the great eastern mart
so long frequented by the ships of Tyre and Judea.'*

In modern times Galle has been the mart first of Portugal
and afterwards of Holland. The extensive fort constructed by
the Dutch ^ is still one of the chief features of the place and
encloses the^modern town. Although dismantled, few portions
of it have been destroyed, and the remains add greatly to the
picturesque character of the landscape. Amongst a large
number . of- interesting remains of the Dutch period are the
gateway of the fortress, the present entrance from the harbour,
and the Dutch church, both of which we illustrate. A steep
and shady street known as Old Gate Street ascends to the
principal part of the town.

The most flourishing period of Galle during the British
occupation was that immediately preceding the construction
of the harbour at Colombo. Then Galle obtained a large share
of the modern steamship trade. Its harbour was always
regarded as dangerous, owing to the rocks and currents about

GeUU in
modem times

GalU's

flourishing
period

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251. DUTCH GATEWAY AT GALLE,

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252 THE ENGLISH CHURCH, QALLE.

253. THE DUTCH CHURCH. GALLE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 165

the mouth ; but it was preferred to the open roadstead of c^»* lio«
Colombo, and the P. & O. and other important companies Gaiu
made use of it. Passengers for Colombo were landed at Galle,
and a coach service provided them with the means of- reaching
their destination.

Besides the trade that follows on shipping, the town was
alive with such business as travellers bring. The local manu-
facturers of jewellery and tortoiseshell ornaments, for which
Galle has always been famous, met the strangers on arrival
and did a thriving business. In fact, Galle was a miniature vicissitudes
of what Colombo is to-day. But the new harbour of Colombo
sealed its fate. The manufacturers now send their wares to
Colombo, and the merchants have to a great extent migrated
thither. The prosperity of Galle has therefore suffered a
serious check; its fine hotel knows no' ** passenger days," its
bazaars are quiet and its streets have lost their whilom busy
aspect. Nevertheless, it is the seat of administration of a
large, populous and thriving province, and must always remain
a place of considerable importance. Its share of commerce consolations
will probably increase as cultivation and mining still further
extend. It is a great centre of the cocoanut industry, which
has in recent years developed to a remarkable degree and is
likely still further to increase.

The visitor will be impressed with the cleanliness no less streets and
than the picturesque character of the streets, which are shaded ^»'''"»^*
by Suriya trees. The buildings, as will be seen from our photo-
graphs, are substantial and well-kept, some of the houses of
the wealthier residents being admirably planned for coolness.
Lighthouse Street contains the humbler dwellings ; but even
here the houses are spacious, and each has along the entire
front a deep and shady verandah supported on pillars. This
street probably presented the same appearance during the
presence of the Dutch. The English Church of All Saints*, churches
visible in our photograph of Church Street, is the finest in
Ceylon, both in its architectural features and the manner of
its building.

The old Dutch Church, paved with tombstones, and hung
with mural monuments of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, has now an antiquarian interest. It is still used
by the Presbyterian section of the inhabitants, and is well
worth the attention of the visitor as an excellent specimen of
the places of worship which the Dutch erected wherever they
formed a settlement. Churches and forts are the abiding
evidences of the solid determination of the Dutch to remain
in Ceylon.

They had come to stay, and consequently spared no cost
or trouble to make their buildings of a permanent character.

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1 66

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Line The British colonists, on the other hand, make Ceylon their
temporary home, and seldom intend to die there : consequently
they do not display great enthusiasm for permanent institu-
tions ; indeed, a whole century has passed without any attempt
to build a cathedral worthy of the name, and outside Galle
there is scarcely a beautiful English church in the island.

Galle possesses a municipal constitution ; the area within
the municipal limits is about seven square miles, with a
population of 37,000. The New Oriental Hotel, having
been built when Galle was the principal port of call between
Aden, the Far East and Australasia, possesses accommoda-
tion- almost in excess of the present needs of travellers.
Pleasant driving excursions can be made among the environs
of Galle, which are always and everywhere delightful and
interesting. The traveller will find facilities of every kind in
the way of conveyances and boats, while banks, social clubs,
a golf club, and other institutions usual in large towns are at
hand.

Taipe Talpe (78m. 23c.). — Talpe railway station has been estab-

lishecj chiefly for goods traffic in the products of the cocoanut.
;It is about tv^o miles from the village, which has a population
of about 1,000. There is no rest-house or hotel.

Ahangama Ahangama (84m. 24c.). — Ahangama has about 2,000 inhabi-

tants engaged in cultivation of tea, cocoanuts, palmyra, paddy,
betel, arecas, pepper, plantains, cinnamon and citronella. Cog-
gala Lake,' about five square miles in extent, is two miles
distant^ from the station. Sport, particularly snipe and wild
boar, may be obtained in the neighbourhood.

Weiigama Weligama (89m. 58c.). — Weligama is one of the many

interesting spots on the south coast where the currents have
scooped the shore into bays of exquisite beauty. Primitive
nature in her most delightful moods here greets the traveller,
who, after his' recent experience of Galle, with all its drowsy
luxury of a later stage of civilisation, cannot fail to be struck
by the fact that Ceylon is a land of contrasts. Indeed it is
one of the charms of travel in this fascinating land that so
short a distance transports us from the up-to-date world to
the manners, customs and surroundings of past centuries, and
provides that change of thought and scene which induce the
rpental and physical benefits which are to most of us the end
and object of our travel. There is a comfortable rest-house
three-quarters of a mile from the station, pleasantly situated
so as to command a good view of the bay. Good food and
■ accommodation, boats, hackeries and attendants are always
available. Excellent sport in fishing is available; There are

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255. STATUE OF KUSHTA RAJAH AT WELIGAMA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 169

many objects of interest which will be pointed out' by the vil- Cmst Um
lag^ers, amongst them at Rasamukkanda near the north end Kwhta Rajah
of the bay are the ruins of an ancient temple haunted by the
spirits of its priests, who are believed to be omnipresent and
worshipped by cobras. One of the most interesting traditions of
the place is concerning the statue of Kushta Rajah (Plate 255),
the leper king who was advised that if he visited a. venerated
Buddhist shrine at Weligama he would be cured of his afflic-
tion. The legend as related by the chief priest at Weligama
is as follows : — A Sinhalese king became afflicted with a loath-
some disease which almost deprived him of human appearance.
His people resorted to sacrifices in the hope of appeasing the
angry demon who was supposed to be the author of the king's
sufferings. But the Rajah objected to the diabolical ceremonies
performed on his behalf, and with due humility made offerings
at the shrine of Buddha. He then fell into a trance, during
which a vision represented to him a large expanse of water
bordered by trees of a rare kind, such as he had never before
seen ; for instead of branches spreading from the trunks in
various directions their tops appeared crowned with tufts of
feathery leaves. (The cocoanut is supposed to have been
unknown in Ceylon at this period.) Deeply impressed by this
vision, the Rajah renewed his devotions, when a cobra, the
sacred snake of Buddhism, appeared to him and thrice lapped
water from his drinking vessel. He then slept again, and his
original vision recurred, accompanied this tirfte by the father
of Buddha, who thus accosted him: ** From ignorance of the
sacredness of the ground over "which the God*s favourite tree
casts its honoured shade, thou once didst omit the usual respect
due to it from all his creatures. Its deeply pointed leaf dis-
tinguishes it above all other trees as sacred to Buddha ; and,
under another tree of the same heavenly character, thou now
liest a leprous mass, which disease, at the great Deity's
command, the impurity of the red water within the large and
small rivers of thy body has brought upon thee. But since
the sacred and kind snake, the shelterer of the God Buddha
when on earth, has thrice partaken of thy drink, thou wilt
derive health and long life by obeying the high comm'^ — '
which I now bear thee. In that Hi- — *^'-
southward] lies thy remedv ' j^uiney will

bring thee to t^^- . ..luu snalt see in reality, and

ta>.c^ -^ ci^ wiiy benefit; but as on the top only they

are produced, by fire only can they be obtained. The inside,
of transparent liquid, and of innocent pulp, must be thy sole
diet, till thrice the Great Moon (Maha Handah) shall have
given and refused her light: — at the expiration of that time,
disease will ''^-'ve thee, and thou wilt be clean again."

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170

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Coast Une The one hundred hours* journey having been miraeulously

Kushta Rajah performed, for it had been accomplished without fatigue either
to! himself or attendants, the long and anxiously anticipated
view of that boundless expanse of blue water, and on its
margin immense groves of trees, with crests of leaves (which
he then for the first time perceived to be large fronds),
gratified his astonished and delighted sight, as his visions had
foretold. Beneath the fronds, sheltered from the vertical sun,
hung large clusters of fruit, much larger than any he had ever
seen in his own inland country, and of various colours — green,
yellow, and orange, and in some instances approaching to
black.

The novel fruit was opened and eaten. The liquid within
the nuts was sweet and delicious, while the fleshy part was
found to be cool and grateful food. The leprosy left the Rajah,
and in commemr "ation of the event he carved the gigantic
figure of himself which is now regarded as one of the most
curious relics of antiquity in Ceylon.*
Local products xhc population of Weligama is about 10,000. Its products
are cocoanuts, areca nuts, cinnamon, citronella and plumbago.
Lace and coir rope are its manufactures.

Kamburo-
gamua

Kamburugamua {95m. 4c.). — Kamburugamua railway
station serves the scattered villages which lie midway between
Weligama and Matara, having a population of about 6,000.
There are no facilities or accommodation beyond the mere
platform of the station, nor is there need for them as Matara
is only three miles distant. The chief products are cocoanuts,
chronella and vegetables. In some months of the year no less
than ten tons of pumpkins are despatched by rail to various
markets. Coir yarn and lace are manufactured in every
village. There is very good snipe shooting in the neighbour-
hood.

Matara Matara (98m. 36c.). — Matara, the present terminus of the

coast line, is a beautiful and interesting town of about 20,000
inhabitants, lying at the mouth of the Nil-ganga, or Blue
River, which flows into the sea within four miles of Dondra
Head, the southernmost point of the island. Apart from the
beauty of the river, which like all others in Ceylon is bordered
on either bank with the richest vegetation, the chief points of
interest in Matara are connected with Dutch antiquities. Of
these a short account only must suflUce.

There are two forts and an old Dutch Church still in good
preservation to testify to the importance with which Matara

* From the account of Mr. J. W. Bennett, of the Ceylon Civil Service, published
in 1843.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

173

was regarded in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
The smaller of the forts is of the well-known «tar formation..
It was built by Governor Van Eck in 1763. The gateway is
in particularly good preservation, and although the arms above
the door are carv-ed in wood every detail is still perfect.- At
the present time this star fort serves as the residence of the
officer of the Public Works for the Matara district:

The larger fort consists of extensive stone and coral works
facing the sea and extending inwards on the south till they
meet the river, which forms part of the defences. Within the
enclosure are most of the official buildings of the place, includ-
ing the Courts, the Kachcheri, and the residence of the
Assistant Government • Agent. To these buildings must be
added the rest-house, which is important to travellers and
will be found very comfortable. The appearance of the fort,
from within, is distinctly park-like and picturesque owing to
the beautiful trees which have been introduced in recent years.
These afford delightful shade and render a stroll beneath them
pleasant when the sun does not permit of walking in the open.

The land around Matara is extremely fertile and no place
could be more abundantly supplied with food, especially fish,
the variety of which is very large. The neighbourhood affords
most delightful walks and drives through the finest avenues of
umbrageous trees to be met with in Ceylon. Nothing sur-
prises the visitor more than this feature of complete shade upon
the roads of the extreme south of the island, and in no part
is it more grateful than upon the road from Matara to Tan-
galla, whither we shall presently proceed."

Our picture of the bathing-place on the banks of the Nil-
ganga possesses one peculiarity which may seem curious to
the European who is not acquainted with tropical rivers — the
fence of large stakes constructed to keep out the crocodiles.
Without this, bathing would be unsafe and would probably
be indulged in at the cost of many a human life. This photo-
graph also presents a typical scene in the background from
which some idea may be gathered of the recreation grounds
of a southern town in Ceylon. Here golf and cricket claim
their votaries as in larger places, and facilities for enjoying
these games are not wanting.

The local accommodation for travellers is considerable.
Ladies will find a well-furnished waiting-room at the railway
station. The government rest-house is ten minutes* drive from
the station ; it has seven good bedrooms and spacious dining-
hall and verandahs. Horse carriages can be obtained at the
rate of one rupee for the first hour and twenty-five cents an
hour for subsequent time; and bullock hackeries can be
obtained at twenty-five cents an hour. The chief local pro-

Coast Line

Matara
The star fort

The main fort

Nil-ganga

Local
accommodation

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174

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Manufactures

Sport

TangalU

Coast Line ducts are cocoanuts, paddy, betel, arecas, kurrakan, pepper,

Local products plantains, cinnamon and citronella. The quantities despatched

by rail monthly are approximately : loo tons copperah, 150 tpns

coeoanut oil, 150 tons coir yarn, 75 tons citronella oil, 50 tons

poonac, 75 tons vegetables.

The local manufactures are baskets, lace, jewellery, coir
and furniture.

Matara being an ** assistant government agency** is fur-
nished with the courts, offices and residences of the following
district officers : Assistant Government Agent, District Judge,
Police Magistrate and District Engineer.

Most of the Christian sects are represented amongst the
churches and schools — Anglican, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan
and Presbyterian.

Sport obtainable include^ snipe, hare, birds in great variety
and crocodiles.

The visitor who goes to Matara should allow time for an
excursion to the attractive village of Tangalla, twenty miles
farther along the coast. The drive thither is full of interest
and there is a rest-house prettily situated in a charming bay.
It is, however, advisable to give notice to the rest-house keeper
in advance, in order that he may be prepared with food supplies.
A mail coach runs daily from Matara in which the box seats
should be engaged.

No sooner do we get out of the town than the perfume of
citronella invites our attention to an industry of which only
bare mention has hitherto been made.

Citronella grows without much care or attention on the
poorest land, and since there is a large demand for the essential
oil of this grass, for use in perfumery, it has answered the
purpose of the agriculturists between Matara and Tangalla to
spread its cultivation over about twenty thousand acres of
land which would otherwise have lain waste. For many years
a high price was obtained for the oil, but latterly it has fallen
so low. as to render the cultivation almost unprofitable. The
wily cultivator sought to meet his misfortune by adulteration;
but ^.this only brought the Ceylon product into disrepute.
Judging, however, from the number of distilleries which we
s?e by the roadside, we do not doubt but that the grower of
citronella. still meets with some reward for his enterprise.

At the fourth mile of our coach journey we arrive at the
southern extremity of Ceylon — Dondra Head. A visit to the
lighthouse is well repaid by the beautiful scenery of the coast;
but the chief attraction is to be found in the very ancient ruins
which are spread over a considerable area. Dondra has been
held sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists from very early
times. In the Portuguese period (sixteenth century) it was

Citronella

Dondra Head

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258. DUTCH FORT AT MATARA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 177

the most renowned place of pilgrimage in Ceylon. From the coast Line
sea the temple had the appearance of a city. The pagoda was Dondra Head
richly decorated and roofed with gilded copper. But this
magnificence only excited the rapacity of the ruthless Portu-
guese, who tore down its thousands of statues and demolished
its colonnades. A finely carved stone doorway and a large
number of handsome columns of granite are all that now
remain.

There is still an annual pilgrimage made to this sacred Dondra fair
place; but it is now commonly known as Dondra fair, and
partakes of the nature of a holiday. A large camp is formed
by the erection of temporary sheds roofed with the leaves of
the talipot palm; and here thousands of natives assemble,
making day and night hideous by the blowing of chank shells
and the beating of tom-toms- The visitor who arrives at the
time of this fair will be amused at the sight of such strange
crowds and the weird ceremonies which they perform, but will
probably be glad to escape from the fiendish music at the
earliest moment.

The drive to Tangalla is chiefly interesting for the lovely Tangaiia
seascapes which burst upon the gaze at frequent intervals.
Our photograph fairly represents the general character of this
part of the south coast. The coves and bays are separated by
precipitous headlands, which are always well covered with
vegetation and crowned with beautiful palms.

Tangalla itself gives its name to one of the finest bays in
Ceylon, the distance between the headlands being four miles.
It has the appearance of a magnificent harbour, being so well
protected that the water is always calm and no surf breaks
upon the shore, but in fact it is very dangerous for shipping,
owing to its numerous coral reefs and sandbanks.

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THE KELANI VALLEY.

The olden
times

A ttractiofis
of scenery

Keiani Valley Whei^e in olden times the Kandyan kings were wont to
descend from their mountain fastnesses and give battle to the
European invader a narrow-gauge railway now creeps along
a romantic, and beautiful valley. In those days travelling
facilities were limited to jungle paths and dug-out ferry boats ;
cultivation was sparse but nature was bountiful, and among
her many gifts was the wild - cinnamon which aroused the
greed and avarice of the foreigner. For this he fought, and
it was here in the valley of the Keiani that the greatest
struggles with the Kandyans took place. The country between
Cjolombo and Yatiyantota is 'full of historical associations, and
n[rany legends lend their quota of interest to the rugged land-
scape. But the charms of romance have now yielded to the
demand of commerce. Where a few years ago the life and
occupations of the people were absolutely primitive and tillage
was limited to native methods, there are now thirty thousand
acres of tea, ten thousand of rubber and a railway.

In spite of this great extension of the area of cultivation
and of means of transport, the attractions of scenery and the
quaintness of native customs are very little diminished, and
the tourist or visitor will not have seen all the best part of
Ceylon until he has made the acquaintance of this famous
district. Even the soldiers who were engaged in fierce warfare
with the Kandyans, and who experienced all the trials and
hindrances of, marching in a tropical country without roads,
were. enchanted by the singular beauty of the country and
described it in*their journals in terms of glowing enthusiasm.
The same fascinating landscape of undulating lowlands and
lovely river views is there, but the modern traveller finds not
only excellent roads, but always a courteous, gentle and con-
tented population. In no other district of Ceylon is Sinhalese
rifral life more full of interest. The primitive methods of the
natives in the manufacture of quaint pottery, their curious
system of agriculture and the peculiar phases of their social
life, are not less interesting than the beautiful country in which
they live.

178

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261. THE MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY.

283. KADUWCLLA.

203. KADUWELLA.

mtz^^'^. ^™.s^^l,.

364. HANWELLA FERRY.

309. DOWN STREAM, HANWELLA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

i8i

The railway runs parallel to the river but at a distance of Kei«n' Valley
some mrles to the south until Karuwanella is reached ; there-
fore he who wishes to see the river and the villages of Kadu-
wella and Hanwella must make a special excursion from
Colombo by horse-carriage or motor-car ;. or he can take the
train to Waga and drive to Hanwella.

Kaduwella is charmingly situated, and, like almost every Kaduweiia
village of importance in the Kelani Valley, has a delightful
rest-house, which is built on a steep red rock almost over-
hanging the river, and commanding one of many delightful
vistas where the noble Kelani nleanders in and out, and dis-
plays its curving banks, always covered with the richest foliage.
Here one may sit and watch the quaint barges and rafts as
they pass, laden with produce for Colombo, or groups of
natives and cattle crossing all day long by the ferry close by.
And whilst comfortably reclining in the charming verandah
of this excellent hostelry, with -peaceful surroundings and' a
sense of the most complete luxury and security, one may
reflect upon the early days of the British occupation when
Kaduwella was reached only by strong and narrow passes,
with the very steep banks of the river to the left, and hills
covered with dense jungle to the right, while in front were
breastworks which could not be approached save through deep
and hollow defiles.

Here in earlier days the hostile Kandyans made ^ stand
against the Dutch, cutting off four hundred of their troops,
and the British, too, lost many men near this spot before
the natives were finally subjugated.

There is a famous Cave-Temple of the Buddhists at cave-Tempu
Kaduwella, very picturesquely situated under an enormous
granite rock in the midst of magnificent trees. It' has a fine
pillared hall, the bare rock forming the wall at the back. The
usual colossal image of Buddha is carved in the solid granite,
and is a good specimen of its class.

Behind the Temple a magnificent view is to be obtained
from the top of the cliff over the hilly country. The jungle
is thickly inhabited by troops of black monkeys, flocks of green
parrots, huge lizards resembling young crocodiles, and myriads
of smaller creatures. Indeed, the zoologist, the botanist, and
the artist need go no further for weeks.

On the right bank of the river, opposite Kaduwella, is a Maiwana
pla^e of classical interest now known as Welgama, but anciently
by the more poetic name of Maiwana. Three centuries or
more ago it was the chosen sanitarium of Portuguese Governors
and high officials, and was regarded as the most salubrious
spot within their reach. Here they d\rielt in princely palaces
few traces of which remain.

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l82

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

KelanS Valley

Pottery

Hanwella

The historic
rest-house

River traffic

River scenery

The villages upon the banks of the river are famous for
their pottery. The visitor will be interested no less by the
quaintness of the ware itself, than by the methods of its
manufacture, which is carried on in open sheds by the wayside.

The large village of Hanwella is reached at the twenty-
first mile-post from Colombo. It was a place of considerable
consequence in the days of the Kandyan kingdom, and
possessed a fort commanding both by land and water the
principal route which led from the interior of the island to
Colombo. Here the last king of Kandy was defeated by
Captain Pollock. Not far from this place was a palace
erected for the use of the king when on this his final expedition,
and in front of it were placed the stakes on which he intended
to impale the captured British. Here many fierce battles were
fought against the Kandyans, with the result of much signing
of treaties and truces, which were seldom or never adhered to
on the part of the natives. The rest-house, as at Kaduwella,
commands a beautiful view of the river. Enchanting as every
acre of this district is, the river views surpass all in their
loveliness.

Our views Nos. 264, 265 and 267 are taken from the grounds
of the rest-house, which occupy the site of the old Fort built by
the Portuguese about three centuries ago. The stone seats
observable in our pictures bear inscriptions recording the visits
of members of the British royal family. His Majesty the King
was here in 1876. In 1870 Hanwella was visited by the Duke
of Edinburgh, and in 1882 by Prince Victor and Prince George,
now Prince of Wales. Trees planted by all the Princes will be
seen flourishing in the grounds. Perhaps the most striking
feature to many a visitor is the extent of the river traffic carried
on by rafts and such boats as are seen in plates 266 and 286.
It is interesting to note the variety of merchandise floating
down stream in these curious craft, which includes pottery,
building materials, cocoanuts, chests of tea, bamboos, timber
trees,. and all manner of produce and manufactures that find a
market in Colombo, for the stream is swift and the water
carriage cheap. Our plate 264 depicts the ferry below which
the river takes a sharp bend towards the reach in plate 265.
1 he up-river view (Plate 267) is the finest, and is particularly
beautiful in the early morning when the Adam*s Peak range
of mountains is visible in the background ; the broad silvery
stream narrowing in distant perspective, the rich borders of
foliage that clothe the lofty and receding banks, the foreground
clad with verdure and flowers, and the blue haze of distant
mountains over all make up a picture that does not easily fade
from^ memory, but which no photograph can adequately
represent.

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266. A KELANI BARGE AT HANWELLA

267. VIEW FROM THE REST-HOUSE, HANWELLA

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268. LACC-MAKINO AT NUOCGOOA.

269. COTTA.

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185

270. NUGEGODA STATION.

KELANI VALLEY LINE ITINERARY.

The railway itinerary from Colombo to Yatiyantota begins at- Keiani Valley
Maradana Junction. The line upon leaving Colombo traverses *"*"•
the golf links and runs south until the first station, Nugegoda,
is reached at the sixth mile.

Nugegoda (5m. 52c.). — Nugegoda is in the centre of a Nugegoda
cluster of well-populated villages of which the once famous
principality of Cotta is the chief. The road scenery in the
neighbourhood is very charming as may be gathered from our
plate 269. Although Cotta was the seat of kings 'in the cotta
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the whole country was
subdivided into petty states, there are no remains of historical
interest to detain the visitor. The chief institution^ in the
district are the missionary and educational establishments of
the Church Missionary Society, which date from the year 1818.

The manufactures consist of pottery and pillow-lace, which
the villagers may be seen making in the shade of their palm-
thatched verandahs. Both may be purchased at surprisingly
small prices (Plates 261 and 268).

The agricultural products are cinnamon, the various palms
and garden vegetables, tons of which are sent by rail to the
Colombo markets. 1

Pannipitiya (lom. 49c.). — Pannipitiya offers no special Pannipitiya
attractions to the visitor. It is a purely Sinhalese village of
about eight hundred inhabitants, whose occupations chiefly
consist in the cultivation of the betel, cinnamon and oranges.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

KetanI Valley
Line

Homaffama

Areca palms

Padukka

Jak trees

HoMAGAMA (15m. 23c.). — Homagama station serves a purely
Sinhalese population engaged in agriculture. The chief pro-
ducts are the palm, .cinnamon, betel, areca nuts, cocoanut oil
and garden vegetables. We shall here notice a distinct
increase in the cultivation of the elegant areca-nut palms which
form one of the noticeable features of the Kelani Valley.
They adorn the jungle on all sides. A pleasing effect is pro-
duced by the beautiful delicate stem, with its rich feathery
crest, standing out from the surrounding foliage. The graceful
bamboos, the huge waving fronds of the plantain, the shapely
mango, covered with the bell-shaped blossoms of the Thun-
bergia creeper, all seem to form a setting in which the elegant
areca displays its beauties to the greatest possible advantage.

*The virtues of this Tree, however, are not aesthetic only.
It is very prolific in the production of nuts, which grow in
clusters from the stem just beneath the crest of the palm.
Previous to the development of the nuts the tree flowers, and
diffuses a delightful fragrance all around. In size and appear-
ance the nuts are not unlike the nutmeg, and are similarly
enclosed in a husk. What becomes of them is easy to realise
when it is considered that every man, woman, and child is
addicted to the habit of betel-chewing, and that the areca-
nut forms part of the compound used for this purpose; added
to this, there is an export trade in areca-nuts to the amount of
about ;^75,ooo per annum.

Padukka (21m. 74c.). — Padukka is a Sinhalese agricultural
village of the same character as Homogama, with the additional
feature of an excellent rest-house. The Jak trees in this dis-
trict will attract the notice of the traveller by their stupendous
growth and gigantic fruit. The Jak not only grows the largest
of all edible fruits, but it bears it in. prodigious quantity and
in a peculiar fashion. It throws huge pods from the trunk
and larger branches, and suspends them by a thick and short
stalk. There are sometimes as many as eighty of these huge
fruits upon one tree, some of them weighing as much as forty
to fifty pounds. They are pale green in colour, with a granu-
lated surface. Inside the^tough skin is a soft yellow substance,
and embedded *his are some kernels about the size of a
walnut. This fru ^n forms an ingredient in the native

curries,, but its flavc disliked by Europeans. Elephants,

however, are very fond "t^ and its great size would seem to
make it an appropriate i*.-m of food for these huge beasts.
A much more extensive use of the Jak tree is the manufacture
of furniture from its wood, which is of a yellowish colour
turning to red when seasoned. It is harder than mahogany,
which it somewhat resembles.

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271. ARCOA PAUNt.

373. ARCOA ADORNINQ THC JUNOLC

^—

■JK

^^^^^^^^^_^k_^^^^^^^^R. TT

273. THC HACKERY.

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by Google

274. THE JAK TREE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

189

VVaga (27m. 48c.).— From Padukka to Waga the course of Ke<««>J Galley
the railway line is north and approaches to within four miles of *"'"*
Hanw'ella. Thus it will be noticed that the traveller who waga
wishes to visit Hanwella without the expense of motor car or
other conveyance from Colombo, can travel by rail to Waga
and thence to Hanwella by hackery (Plate 273), which will cost
about twenty-five cents or fourpence a rtiile.

At Hanwella will be found the luxurious rest-house already HanweUa
described, where the artist or naturalist will be tempted to
prolong his stay. Upon leaving Hanwella the route may be
varied by driving to Kosgama station instead of back to Waga,
the distance being about the same. We have now reached
the outskirts of the Kelani Valley tea plantations, and tea has
to be added to the list of local products, although areca-nuts
provide most of the freight despatched from Waga station.

Apart from the beautiful scenery and historical associations Lahugama
of Hanwella, the traveller will be well rewarded for a trip
to Waga by the lovely prospect of the Labugama Lake, from
which Colombo derives its water supply. Here in silence and
solitude lies an expanse of water artifically dammed, but with
such a glorious setting that it is unsurpassed for picturesque-
ness in the rest of this beautiful country. Around the basin,
which is situated 360 feet above sea level, are rugged hills
rising to upwards of 1,000 feet and exhibiting the greatest
variety of tropical flora, planted by the hand of nature herself.
The catchment area of 2,400 acres is intersected by many
^rf*eams, which flow from the hills over boiilder-strewn beds
bringing pure supplies to the reservoir. The marginal sward,
like the gold slip of a picture frame, has' its pleasing effect at
the edge of the still waters, in which are mirrored the graceful
shapes evolved from the m? -ts of a vapour-laden sky. Beauti-
ful cloud-effects are se' _.. absent, for it is a locality which
attracts and then disperses them. The rainfall is indeed
heavy and frequent, amounting to 160 inches in a year, or
nearly double that of Colombo. The visitor should therefore
be prepared accordingly.

Before the Kelani Valley was exploited for agricultural
purposes, the locality around Labugama was famous for
elephant hunting and shooting. A kraal was constructed here
in 1882 in honour of the visit of the Princes Victor and George
of Wales, and a large number of elephants were caught.

PuwAKPiTiVA (34m. 43c.). — At Puwakpitiya we reach the Pnwakpitiya
Tea and Rubber cultivation. This station serves the estates
of Penrith, Elston, Glencorse, Ernan, Ferriby and Northumber-
land. About a hundred tons of tea per month are despatched
by rail. Rubber is in its infancy, with a monthly despatch of

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Keianl about ten tons, which will doubtless rapidly increase. From

Valley Line jjje heights Upon Ferriby estate there are grand views of the
surrounding mountainous country.

AviMweiia AvisAWELLA (36m. 66c.). — Avisaw-ella is a town of con-

siderable importance both historically and as the centre of the
district. It is moreover the junction between the rail and coach
service to Ratnapura, the city of gems. The local products
are tea, cocoanuts, cardamoms, paddy, betel-leaf, kurrakan,
cinnamon, rubber and areca-nuts. The railway despatches
about twenty-five tons of areca-nuts and sixty tons of tea
monthly.

The accommodation for travellers at the rest-hoy" '"te
near the railway station is excellent, and the food supply
good.

sitawaka Sitawaka is the historical name of this place, and although

it has long disappeared from maps and modern documents, the
river, a tributary of the Kelani, ' -*^- 1 city

stood, i3 still known as the Sitawct '

276). The name is derived from the inciueiu ui ^^.^y iuk, iicfoine
of the epic Ramayana, being forcibly brought hither by Rawana.
This legend of prehistoric times provides a fitting halo of
romance for so • charming a spbt ; but in later times, when
history has supplanted tradition, we find Sitawaka towards
the middle of the sixteenth century the capital of a lowland
principality, the stronghold of Mayadunne and his son
Rajasinha, who had the courage to oppose the King of Cotta
and the Portuguese, with the result that many bloody battles
were, fought » around the city, which eventually, about the close
of the century, was destroyed by the ruthless Portuguese, who
scarcely left a stone standing. The beautiful temple, con-
structed of finely worked granite, and the gorgeous palace
were burned and • wrecked so completely that only traces of
them are now visible. The remains are situated on the
Sitawaka River to the right of the steel bridge from which our
photograph (Plate 276) is taken. A sharp bend in the river is
noticeable with high land on the left at a distance of only a
couple of hundred yards from the bridge. Here are the ruins

Berendi^Kovii oi the remarkable temple k '-'? the Berendi Kovil, built

by Rajasinha, who succeeded his father King Mayadunne
referred to above. At the approach to the ruins there is a
moat or ditch to be crossed, and the visitor will not fail to
note the five immense labs of hewn stone by which it is
spanned, each being about fourteen feet in length and nearly
four in width. The stone carving displayed in the ruins is
exquisite in its refinement : sufficient of it remains to indicate
that the fanaticism of the Portuguese in destroying this

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SITAWAKA RIVER.

976. SITAWAKA RIVER.

277. THE TOU. BAR.

278. THE GUIDE POST TO RATNAPURA.

BWI^^ff!

^^i^AK^

^^z^

^■^^^H

' -"

' -~ 9e

270. PUNTINQ A PRODUCE BOAT ON THE KELANl.

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98a GUARD STONE AT BERCNDI KOVIU

3BI. PILLAR AT ECRCNDI KOVIU

883 PILLAR AT MEDAOOOA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

193

building, deprived Ceylon of a matchless example of stone- Kei«ni Vaiiey
temple architecture. Strange stories are told as to the circum- '''"*
stances in which Rajasinha was led to build this Kovil for the Berendi KovU
worship of Siva. The Sinhalese chronicle Mahawansa states
that he was a parricide, and being smitten by remorse appealed
to the priests of Buddha for relief. Their reply, that the con-
sequences of his sin could not be destroyed, so incensed him
that he forthwith put them to death, and embraced the religion
of Siva. Local tradition accepting this adds that the Brahmins
induced him to build the Berenda, which means **the temple
to get redemption." The inhabitants of Aviswella vary the
above account both as to the crime and the treatment of the
priests, some believing that the priests were mutilated, spread
upon the land and ploughed over while alive, and adding that
the king was consumed by fire and taken off to hell before the
building was finished.

In other versions parricide gives place to other heinous
crimes ; reliable history, however, records none of these things.
It knows Rajasinha I. only as a man of high courage and
ability who reigned at Sitawaka, and more or less successfully
opposed the Portuguese in their attempts to take the hill-
country. Tradition adds that he died in his hundredth year,
having fought for his country continually for over eighty years.

On the side of the river opposite to the ruins of the Berendi
temple, are the remains of a fort built by the Dutch about the
year 1675, for the purpose of resisting the Kandyan king
and protecting their maritime possessions.

At Medagoda, six miles below Ruanwella on the right bank Medagoda
of the Kelani, there is a Pattini Dewale (temple dedicated to
the goddess Pattini) which contains a beautifully carved pillar
supposed to have been removed from the Berendi temple at
Sitawaka. This gives some idea of the elaborate decoration
bestowed on the building of this temple (Plate 282).

It is thus described by Mr. Bell* : — This pillar is probably
unique. Having no fellow it is in every way unsuited to its
present environment, added to which where it stands its beauty
is necessarily much concealed. The monolith must originally
have been squared to i ft. 2 in., the size it assumes across the
lion's breast, lotus bosses, and capital fillet. Rising octagonally
from the back of a broad-faced couchant lion of conventional
type, with frilled mane and raised tail, the shaft slides gradually
into the rectangular by a semi-expanded calyx moulding. Half-
way up relief is given by a bordered fillet 2 in. in breadth,
slightly projecting, carved with a single flower pattern repeated
round the pillar. From the fillet depends on each face a pearl

* Report of the Kegalla District, by Mr. H. C. P. BcH, Archaeological Commis-
sioner.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Keiani Valley bead String (muktd-ddma). A few inches above this band stand
out from alternate faces full-blown lotus knops, 5 in. in cir-
cumference, with ornamentation resembling much the '* Tudor
flower ** upon the intervening sides. Where the pillar be-
comes square there are further loops of pearls, three on each
side, separated by single vertical strings. A lower capital of
ogee moulding, separated by narrow horizontal fillets, and
finished with ovolos and a rectangular band, is surmounted
by a four-faced makara and a low abacus. From the centre
of the roundlet moulding on all four sides drops the garlanded
chakra symbol noticeable on the sculptures at Bharhut. How
dead to all sense of aesthetic taste must be villagers who could
hide such artistic work in stone behind a mud wall !

Ratnapura, to which we have made reference in connection
with Panadure and Kalutara in our description of the coast
line, is twenty-six miles from Avisawella, and there is a daily
coach service between the two places, particulars of which
may be found on reference to the* index.

Dehiowita Dehiowita (42m. 50C.). — Dehiowita is surrounded by many-

large tea estates, which supply a considerable traffic to the
railway^ amounting to some few thousands of tons in the
course of the year. Rubber cultivation is on the increase here.
Areca-nuts despatched by rail amount to about fifteen tons per
month, while cinnamon is on the decline and sent only in
small quantities. The little town lies about three quarters
of a mile from the railway station, and contains about nine
hundred inhabitants, many of them being estate coolies.

karawaneiia Karawanella (45m. 40C.). — Karawanella station is one mile

from the village of Karawanella and two miles from Ruanwella,
which together have a population of about 1,500. Some of
the most beautiful scenery in Ceylon is to be found here. The
river views are perhaps unequalled, especially that from Kara-
wanella bridge (Plate 283). There are plenty of heights from
which to view the diversified character of the country. Immense
perpendicular ledges of rocks rise from the forest, rearing
their stupendous heads above the thickets of palm and bamboo.
Even these rocks of granite which appear in giant masses
all over the forests by disintegration supply nourishment for
the luxuriant vegetation with which they are covered (Plate 284).
The reward of human labour is apparent in the tea and
rubber estates now flourishing where once the lands lay in
utter devastation as a result of the native wars with the
Portuguese and Dutch, the country here being the farthest
point to which the invaders managed to penetrate.

Ruanwella At Ruanwella the rest-house and its grounds, which are

on the site of a ruined fort, are in themselves full of interest,

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283. THE KELANI AT KARAWANELLA.

284. RCX:K8 of GRANITE AT RUANWELLA

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285. RUANWELLA FORD.

286. PRODUCE B0AT8 AT RUANWELLA

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

197

and wHl be found so conducive to comfort as to make the Keiani Valley
visitor who is not pressed for time very loth to leave. A fine *-*"*
archway, the entrance to the ancient fort, is still preserved, Ruanweiia
and forms an interesting feature in the gardens. Near to this
is one of the most remarkable mango trees in Ceylon, about
ninety feet high, and more than that in circumference ; it is
literally covered with the Thunbergia creeper, which when in
bloom presents a magnificent appearance. In the grounds
too are to be seen a variety of large Crotons and other gorgeous
plants, which flourish here to perfection. A palisade encamp-
ment was formed here by the Dutch, but within a few years
was abandoned to the Kandyans. The site, commanding as it
did the water communication between Kandy and Colombo,
was of great importance. Here the Kandyans made more
than one brave but ineffectual stand against the British troops
in the early part of the nineteenth century. At this time the
Kandyan king's royal garden was occupied by British troops,
and was thus described by Percival : — "The grove where we The king's
encamped was about two miles in circumference, being bound garden
on the west by a large, deep and rapid branch of the Maliva-
ganga, while in front towards Ruanweiia another branch ran in
the south-east direction, winding in such a manner that the
three sides of the grove were encompassed by water, while the
fourth was enclosed by thick hedges of bamboos and betel
trees. This extensive cocoanut-tree garden lies immediately
under steep and lofty hills, which command a most romantic
view of the surrounding country. It forms part of the king's
own domains, and is the place where his elephants were usually
kept and trained."

The British retained Ruanweiia as a military post until
the new road to Kandy was completed and the pacification of
the Kandyans entirely accomplished, after which the fort and
commandant's quarters were transformed into a well-appointed
rest-house and picturesque gardens. The ruined entrance still
bears the initials of Governor Sir Robert Brownrigg and the
date 1 81 7.

A pleasant stroll from the rest-house, through shady groves Produce boats
of areca and other palms, brings us to a part of the river which
is not only very picturesque, but gives evidence of its use
of commerce as a highway. Here we can see the quaint pro-
duce boats and the curiously constructed bamboo rafts being
laden with freight for the port of Colombo.

From this point to Colombo the distance by water is about
sixty miles; and such is the rapidity of the current after the
frequent and heavy rainfalls that these boats are able to reach
Colombo in one day ; the only exertion required of the boatmen
being such careful steering as to keep clear of rocks, trees,

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Line

198

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

and sandbanks. The return journey, however, is a more
arduous task, and entails great labour and endurance for
many days.

During fine weather the river can be forded at this point, *
and it is quite worth while to cross over and follow the path,
seen in our picture of the ford (Plate 285), which leads to
Ruanwella estate. That such a wonderful change from jungle
to orderly cultivation has been made within few years can
scarcely be realised when wajking along the excellently planned
roads, and gazing upon the flourishing tea bushes, where a
short time ago all was a mass of wild and almost impenetrable
thicket.

Vatlyantota

Ginigathcna ^
pass

Kegalle

Yatiyantota (47m. 6oc.). — Yatiyantota is the present
terminus of the Kelani Valley railway, it is very much shut
in by hills and in consequence very warm. There is a good rest-
house with two bedrooms.

There are few attractions here for the visitor ; but it serves
as a halting place for those who proceed by this route to
Dickoya and the higher planting districts, the mountain pass
to which is a thing of very great natural beauty and of its
kind unequalled in Ceylon, where so many mountain passes
have lost their primitive beauty owing to the inroads of modern
cultivation clearing away all the primeval forest. Here, in
the Ginigathena pass, the landscape has not yet suffered, and
the views from Kitulgala at the eighth mile from Yatiyantota
are exceedingly beautiful. Upon leaving the rest-house the
road runs along the banks of the Kelani, as seen in our plate
288, the ascent beginning about the third mile. There are no
conveyances to be obtained at Yatiyantota except bullock
hackeries, and the visitor who wishes to proceed by this route
to Hatton should therefore make the trip by motor car from
Colombo. But for the tourist who explores the Kelani Valley
at leisure, a walking tour up the Ginigathena pass, with a
hackery for an occasional ride, is pleasant enough, and may be
done by making headquarters at Ruanwella rest-house which
is cooler and pleasanter than Yatiyantota.

In the same way the tourist, may make a trip from Ruan-
wella to Kegalle (twenty miles), through a lovely wooded and
undulating country. The cyclist will find it easy to explore
the whole of the Kelani Valley by using the railway for the
longer journeys, and taking short excursions on his bicycle
from the various rest-houses.

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■^.r

287, THE KELANI AT RUANWELLA

288. THE KELANI AT ^^ATtVANTOTA.

'>'t-h"p new YORKl

r^naLX LIBRARY I

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON.

PART II.

KANDY AND THE HIGHLANDS.

FOR the traveller bound for the mountain districts there is
a choice of stations from which he can take his departure.
He may entrain at any of the coast-line stations and change
at Maradana Junction, or drive direct to that station, which
is about a mile and a half from either the Grand Oriental or
the Galle Face Hotel. But as extensive alterations are in pro-
gress which may involve a change in the location of the main
passenger terminus, it will be advisable to obtain detailed
information at the hotel.

Leaving Colombo, the main line passes through marshy
lands and backwaters until at the second mile the river Kelani
is crossed and a fine view afforded on either side. At the
fourth mile the first station appears, and although it is
situated in the village of Paliyagoda it takes its name of
Kelaniya from the district.

Kelaniya (3m. 49c.). — There is no hotel or rest-house
accommodation at Kelaniya, nor are there any conveyances for
hire with the exception of bullock-hackeries, which, however,
will generally be found sufficient for all requirements. The
agricultural products are cocoanuts, paddy and vegetables.
The women of the villages are chiefly occupied in carrying the
vcjqfctables upon their heads to the markets of Colombo, and
-"^ ♦hem will be noticed engaged in this useful
r native industry is the manufacture of bricks
and tiies> lo. ^.uilding purposes. Our illustration (Plate 289)
gives a very good idea of a tile yard; in it can be seen some
of the oldest fashioned tiles, which are semi-cylindrical. These
have been superseded to some extent by the flat-shaped pattern
from Southern India; but for simplicity, general utility and
coolness they have no equal. Their use is remarkably simple ;

* The number of feet given in the margins indicate the elevations of the
stations above sea level.
O

Main Line
Itinerary

Kelaniya

•14 fett

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202

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

jvuin Line they are merely laid in rows upon the rafters, alternately con-
Keianiya cave and convex, without any fastening whatever. Each tile
is tapered ofif at the end to allow the next to lie close upon it,
and thus the whole roof is held together without fastenings of
any kind. When complete the roof pre^nts the appearance
of a ribbed surface of split drain pipes all laid with the hollow
part inside; the rows laid the other way are hidden and serve
to drain off the heavy rains. So simple is this system of
covering that in case of damage or leakage the whole roof
can be stripped and relaid within a few hours. The buffaloes
in the picture are used for kneading and mixing the clay, an
occupation for which they are eminently suited from their
enormous strength and their natural predilection for wallowing
in swamps. The clay of Kelaniya is said to be the best pro-
curable near Colombo for tiles and pottery generally. Other
industries of Kelaniya are the desiccating of cocoanuts for
purposes of confectionery, and the storage and preparation of
artificial manures for the tea and other estates. The latter
is a business of considerable magnitude, and from the mills
which adjoin the station no less than two thousand tons are
despatched by rail in the course of the year in addition to
that which is transported by other means.

A few hundred yards from Kelaniya station there is a
Roman Catholic church much frequented by pilgrims on account
of a well in its precincts whose water is said to have miraculous
healing powers. But the chief object of interest to the visitor
The Temple is the Kelaniya Wihdre (Buddhist Temple), which is held in
great veneration by all the Buddhists of the lowlands, and to
which many thousands come on full-moon days, bearing gifts
of fruit, money and flowers for the shrine. This building stands
near the river bank, and contributes its full share of picturesque-
ness to a scene that offers irresistible attractions to many an
amateur photographer. The present temple is about two
hundred years old, but its dagaba or bell-shaped shrine is much
older and was probably erected in the thirteenth century. . The
site is, however, one referred to in history and legend in far
more remote antiquity. The image of Buddha, thirty-six feet in
length, and the brilliant frescoes depicting scenes in his various
lives, are fittingly found in the place which he is supposed
to have visited in person during his life. A tradition appears
in very early records that at Kelaniya in the fifth century b.c,
there reigned a Naga king who was converted by the preaching
of Buddha. A few years later he revisited his royal convert,
who entertained him and his attendant disciples at Kelaniya,
providing them with a celestial banquet. It was upon this
occasion that Buddha rose aloft in the air and left the im-
pression of his foot upon the mountain of Sumana, which is

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a*.'

289, MAKING TILES AT KELANIYA

290. SCENE UN THE RIVER KEL^fti^gcl by GoOQIc

291. A KELANI BARGE IN FULL SAIL.

292. A KELANI BARGE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

205

known to us as Adam's Peak. But legends of ** Kelanipura '* Main Une
(the city of KelaniyaJ tell of events long before the time of ^<'«»»»>«
Buddha, and even go back to Wibhisana who ruled over Ceylon
in the eighteenth century b.c, and to whose memory was built
the Wibhisana Dewjile in the precincts of the Kelaniya Wihdre.
Later history refers to the city of Kelaniya built by King
Yatala Tissa in the third century B.C. He was succeeded by
King Kelani Tissa, who put to death an innocent Buddhist
monk by casting him into a cauldron of boiling oil, upon which,
relates the ancient chronicle, the Rajawaliya, the sea en-
croached and destroyed a great portion of the country. How-
ever much these traditions may transcend the limits of strict
historical verity, it is undoubted that Kelaniya was a place of
considerable fame in early times, and it is not surprising that
its venerable temple and its sacred shrine attract both pilgrims
from afar and non-Buddhist sightseers of many nationalities,
especially as the railway has added so much to the facilities
for reaching them.

HuNUPiTiYA (5m. 42c.). — Hunupitiya is best known to Hunupltiya
Colombo people for its rifle range, where practice is carried on " ■^'*'
by the military and police from Colombo. The accommodation
is limited to the large waiting hall of the railway station and
a restaurant called the Hunupitiya Bar, about one hundred
yards from the station. Cocoanuts and paddy are the chief
agricultural products, while small plots of betel, arecas and
plantains are also cultivated. The manufactures are limited to
coir yarn spun from the husks of the cocoanut.

Ragama (9m.). — At Ragama cultivation increases in variety, Rasama
and we notice both tea and cinnamon in addition to the cocoa- '^-^'^
nuts and paddy. The inhabitants of the village are Sinhalese,
and number about 2,500 irrespective of those who are tem-
porarily in the observation camp, an institution from which
Ragama derives much of its present importance. The reason
for the existence of this camp is found in the fact that Ceylon
is dependent upon India for the supply of labour for the tea
estates, involving a constant immigration of Tamil coolies to
the extent of about 150,000 per annum. In order that these
new-comers should not import disease ihto the various districts
of Ceylon they are, immediately upon disembarkation at
Colombo, placed in quarters specially provided at the root of
the breakwater. Here they are subjected to a thorough inspec-
tion, bathed and fed. Next they are entrained on the spot and
conveyed to Ragama, where they are kept under observation
until it is considered safe for them to proceed to their various
destinations. During the Boer war a large number of recalci-
trant prisoners-of-war were removed from the delightful camp

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Une of Diyatalawa and placed here in order that they might not

Ragama infect the rest with their discontent.

Ragama promises soon to increase in importance as the
junction for the new line to Negombo, which will branch off
from the main line at this station. Near Ragama are the
famous Mahara quarries whence was obtained all the stone
for the construction of the breakwaters and harbour works of
Colombo; the branch railway line which will be noticed
diverging to the right leads to the quarries.

Henaratgoda

36 feet

Henaratgoda {i6m. 59c.). — Henaratgoda is a busy little
town of about 5,000 inhabitants, situated amidst well-watered
fields and gardens whose products are of considerable variety
and importance. Gardens <}evoted to the culture of the betel
vine, which has been described and illustrated on pages 86-88,
are the most in evidence, and supply railway freight to the

Local products extent of twenty tons of leaves a week ih addition to large
loads despatched by other means. The district also produces
areca-nuts, pepper, cinnamon, rubber, tea, paddy and cocoa-
nuts. Its chief interest to us, however, centres in the Botanic
Garden, where we may see some of the finest Para rubber trees
in the colony. Many passengers from various countries who
call at the port of Colombo make a trip to Henaratgoda for
the special purpose of seeing these trees. The railway and
other facilities afforded render the journey easy and comfort-
able. There is a good rest-house near the station and refresh-
ments are procurable without previous notice. Buggies or
hackeries can be hired near the station for driving to the
gardens about a mile distant. The usual charge is twenty-
five cents or fourpence a mile. The drive is pretty, as will be
noticed from our photograph (Plate 294). It is on the left of
the railway, our view being reached immediately after passing

Botanic Gardens through the bazaar. The garden is one of a number of such
institutions that are under the Government Department of
Botany and Agriculture, with headquarters at Peradeniya where
its Director and his extensive scientific staff of experts reside.
The Hemaratgoda gardens were opened in 1876 for the purpose
of making experiments in ascertaining suitable subjects for
cultivation in the heated lowlands. It was about this time that
the Para rubber seed was planted, and many of the trees that
we see there to-day are therefore upwards of thirty years old.
These, together with others more recently planted, provide an
excellent and encouraging object lesson to the investor in the
latest ** boom *' of tropical culture. Some account of this latest
method of wooing wealth may be of interest here.

Rubhfr Most people are aware of the sensation that has been caused

in the economic world by the remarkable increase in the demand

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293. HENARATGODA RAILWAY STATION.

294. THE ROAD TO HENARATGODA GARDENS.

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by Google

295. HENARATGODA GARDENS.

296. RUBBER TREES IN HENARATGODA GARDENS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 209

for rubber, and the probability of the great extension of this ivwn Link
demand. Tropical agriculturists have been induced to rush Henaratgoda
headlong into a new industry which to the general public ^^^^f^^°^
appears so simple and so sure of fortune-making, that from its
very inception capital has been showered upon it unsought.
But the ordinary person who has not been directly concerned
with the rubber market, or lived in tropical lands where the
rapid change, extending even to the landscape itself, has
brought the new industry into prominence, knows little of the
large sum of scientific and experimental research that is being
undertaken in the endeavour to ensure success in this new
departure. The popular idea is that the provision of capital is
the first and last consideration ; trees have only to be planted,
and after more or less patient waiting for seven years the
desired fortune trickles down the stems without more ado.
There are, however, many questions and difficulties to be faced
by the cultivator, and a recognition of these, and some informa-
tion as to the manner in which they are being dealt with, will
not only give a better understanding of the position of the indus-
try, but will evoke admiration of the thoroughness of the colon-
ist in Ceylon who prepares to compete with the rest of the world
by calling to his aid all the scientific knowledge and practical
experience that can be brought to bear upon the enterprise.

The rubber of commerce consists of dried vegetable milk
or latex, and as there are many plants from which this sub-
stance may be obtained it is first necessary to choose the
species most suitable for the soil and conditions of climate,
having due regard to its yielding capacity. Para, Ceara and
Castilloa, all from tropical America, have been tried under-
various conditions of soil, rainfall and elevation, with the result
that Para {Hevea hraziliensis) has been found superior in all
the qualities most desired. A wide distribution has been given
to Ceara, a tree which is quick-growing and thrives in many
climates ; but Para is generally the most satisfactory in growth,
hardiness and yield. Experiments have not, however, ended
here, and several other species are being tried. Early in the
year 1906 it was fully realised that the planting of rubber in
Ceylon was ah assured success ; the planter had discovered the
most suitable species and how to grow them. Upwards of
100,000 acres had been planted, and the trees that had begun
to yield rubber were highly satisfactory both in the quality and
abundance of the supply. So good a thing was worthy of every
effort to secure permanent success, and the idea, originating
with Mr. James Ryan, of bringing out all available knowledge,
empirical and scientific, by means of a rubber exhibition, was
taken up by the whole community with unprecedented en-
thusiasm. Judges were obtained from England, and delegates

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2IO THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Une from all parts of the world were invited. The result was- a
Htnaroigoda rubber congrcss, a great assembly of experts to discuss with
od^vatiomof j-j^^ planters of Ceylon every question afifecting the cultivation
of rubber. Besides a series of lectures, there were demonstra-
tions in tapping and the various processes of preparing for
market. The questions and problems dealt with every feature
of the industry at present apparent in Ceylon, and embraced
every hypothetical point that could be imagined regarding the
future. A few of the conclusions may be mentioned here by
way of giving the reader some insight into the important points
of the industry. In tapping or excising the bark to obtain the
latex several methods are employed, none of which is much
superior to the others ; but in every one the greatest care is
necessary to avoid cutting away the bark too extensively ; as
renewed bark takes five or six years to reach the maturity
that will allow a further yield. Experiments to determine the
best methods of tapping are regarded of the greatest im-
portance, and will be continued at Heneratgoda. The average
yield of mature Para trees upon Ceylon plantations is at present
from one to one and a half pounds per tree per annum ; but it
is confidently hoped that improved systems of drawing the latex
will ultimately increase this amount considerably. The mature
tree possesses a surprising amount of latex, and its gradual
extraction fortunately has little or no deteriorating effect upon
the soil. Rubber will grow almost anywhere in Ceylon below
an elevation of 3,000 feet, and there are many hundreds of
square miles of land now lying waste which may be brought
under its cultivation. The question how far apart to plant the
trees depends somewhat upon considerations of soil and of
height above sea level; but it is agreed that close planting is
to be avoided, and an average of fifteen feet is regarded as a
good rule. Close planting may give rise to fungus and other
troubles, and, moreover, is certain to delay the maturity of the
trees. The past experience of the Ceylon planter is not over-
looked, and the best expert knowledge with regard to possible
• pests and diseases when large areas shall be under cultivation
is being eagerly sought from the mycologist, the entomologist,
the chemist, and all members of the scientific department of
the Government. It should be some consolation to the investor
that any outbreak in the future will find the estate ready at
once to meet it and destroy it.

The preparation of rubber from the latex involves coagula-
tion by means of acid and the elimination of all impurities.
Various machines are already employed in these processes, and
as the industry is yet in its infancy there is still a large field
open for mechanical invention for more effectual manipulation
all along the line. One thing of great importance pointed out

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987. RUBBER TREES, HENARATQOOA.

998 RUBBER PLANTED AMONO TEA. ^

909. RUBBER PLANTATION.

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300. EBONY TREE AT HENARATOODA.

»W^

■■■'^1^2'!-:%t'

301. HENARATOODA OAROENS.

302. HENARATOODA GARDENS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

^13

by Mr. Bamber, the eminent Government chemist, is the m«ib Une
necessity of keeping the factory absolutely free from bacteria. Henaraigoda
Implements, utensils and all apparatus used in manufacture JJ^^^^^
should be sterilised. The foresight being exercised in Ceylon
is not, however, restricted in the direction of production alone ;
consumption is to be stimulated, fresh uses are to be dis-
covered for the produce of the growing estates, and fresh
markets opened up. There is also the important question,
brought to the front by Mr. Bamber, as to the vulcanisation
of rubber in the country of production. At present the raw
material is prepared in the form of biscuits, sheets or blocks,
and shipped in the various countries where it is manufactured
into goods. Before manufacture it is necessary to tear it to
pieces by very powerful machinery and mix it with various
agents according to the use to be made of it. This process,
which is very expensive, can be entirely obviated by Mr.
Bamber 's method of mixing with the milk before coagulation
all the foreign agents required. The future will probably see
in Ceylon merchants who will purchase the latex from the
planter and manufacture rubber paving, tyres and other
articles much cheaper than they could ever be made by the
present cumbrous and wasteful method. The reader who is
further interested in the cultivation of rubber in Ceylon should
obtain the Peradeniya Manual entitled ** Rubber in the East,"
and ** Hevea Brasiliensis " by Herbert Wright, F.L.S.

Although the Royal Botanic Garden at Henaratgoda has
recently been so much regarded as the show place of rubber
trees to the neglect of all else, the visitor will find many fine
specimens of other useful trees and plants, including ebony and
satinwood. The cultivated area is about thirty acres.

Vevaxgoda (22m. 54c.). — Veyangoda, the first stop of the Veyangoda
fast trains to Kandy, lies midway between Negombo on the ^' f^^^
west coast and Ruanwella in the Kelani Valley, and derives
its importance from the main road between these places which
on the one side contribute a large freight in dried fish from
the coast for the estate coolies in the hills, and on the other
tea and various products for the port of Colombo. Some idea
of the agricultural character of the district may be gathered Local products
from the despatches of produce by rail, a monthly average of
which amounts to 60 tons of tea, 20 tons of dried fish, 80 tons
of copra (the dried kernel of the cocoanut from which the oil
is expressed), 100 tons of desiccated cocoanuts (the kernel dis-
integrated, dried and prepared for confectionery), 120 tons of
cocoanut fibre, 50 tons of cocoanut oil, 20 tons of poonac (the
kernel after extraction of the oil), 150 tons of plumbago, besides
smaller quantities of betel, pepper and cinnamon. The large

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214

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The Maha
Mudaliyar

M«lB Line factory visible from the railway is the desiccating factory of the

Veyangoda Orient Company.

There is a good rest-house, about five minutes* walk from
the station, situated on a knoll overlooking the railway line,
containing two single and two double bedrooms. Food should
be ordered in advance.

The village of Veyangoda is about three miles from the
railway station, upon the old Colombo-Kandy road. Near it,
at the twenty-fourth mile from Colombo, is situated the his-
toric residence of Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike, C.M.G.,
the Maha Mudaliyar of Ceylon (a title signifying the head of
the Mudaliyars or low-country chieftains). The present Maha
Mudaliyar is also native aide de camp to his Excellency the
Governor of the Colony, and amongst the duties of his office
is that of presenting on State occasions the various native
dignitaries to the Governor. It may be of interest here to

Admimstta- explain how the rural Sinhalese are governed through the

Hon 0/ rural agcncy of natives and to give some account of the various
offices held by their chiefs and headmen. For purposes of
administration the colony is divided into provinces. Over each
province a Government Agent presides, sub-divisions of pro-
vinces at important centres being in charge of Assistant Agents.
The details of government in rural districts are delegated to
native officers whose designations vary in different parts of
the colony. We are at present concerned only with the low-
country of the west, where we have seen that the most exalted
native rank is that of Maha Mudaliyar; next come the Mudali-
yars of the Governor's Gate, a title of honour conferred in
recognition of public services ; Mudaliyars of the Atapattu who
have jurisdiction over the subdivisions of provinces in sub-
ordination to the Assistant Government Agents or other officers
of the civil service; various other Mudaliyars with duties
attached to a number of offices, the title serving to indicate
their rank and precedence. Next come several classes of
Mohandirams, who are the lieutenants of the Mudaliyars, and
below them come the Arachchis who have charge of small sub-
divisions or villages. By means of these various officers the
orders of the Government are executed in areas difficult of
access and where the conditions of life are still primitive. The
methods in principle are the same as those of the English in
feudal times, and although they may seem archaic to the
stranger, he who is acquainted with Ceylon understands how
well suited they are to the conditions of life prevailing among
the rural Sinhalese, and how much more acceptable to the
people are their own time-honoured customs than the latest
elaborations of theoretically perfected administration. By
these native officers agricultural pursuits are supervised,

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303. RESIDENCE OF THE MAHA MUDALIYAR, SIR SOLOMON DIAS BANDARANAIKE.

304. VILLAGE SCENE VEYANGODA.

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305. ENTRANCE TO RESIDENCE OF THE MAHA MUDALIYAR.

306. A CORNER IN THE MAHA MUDALIYAR'S PARK.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 217

revenue collected, crime suppressed, roads maintained and all ^**«** *-•■«
public affairs watched over with a sort of patriarchal authority ^'o"»««^^<'«
which the villager appreciates and understands. In their very
uniforms oriental customs are maintained. The tunic of a
Mudaliyar is of silk, long and ornamental, with a large number
of gold loops and buttons, a sword belt bedecked with gold
lace and a sword with gold hilt and scabbard of silver inlaid
with gold. The Maha Mudaliyar 's uniform is of a similar
character but of velvet instead of silk. The Mohandirams wear
uniforms similar to the Mudaliyars, except that their sword
belt is of plain gold lace. The Arachchis have silver loops and
trimmings. These official dresses are emblematic of rights
and privileges as well as of authority ; they and the system
they represent are an important relic of the ancient govern-
ment of the country which the British wisely recognise and
perpetuate. Nor is this government of the Sinhalese villager
through his own chieftains limited to matters affecting agri-
culture and revenue ; a system of village judicial courts known
as Gansabhawas provides for the settlement of all trivial dis-
putes and the punishment of minor offences. Over these
tribunals are set native presidents and itinerating magistrates
appointed by the Government. All courts, revenue offices, dis-
pensaries, schools and other Government institutions are
periodically inspected by the Government Agent. The system
varies little in the Kandyan and the Northern and Eastern
Provinces save in the titles borne by the officers or chiefs.

Veyangoda has long been associated with the name of the
chief headman of the low-country, as the following quotation
from Tennent's ** History of Ceylon," published half a century
ago, will show. ** At Veyangoda, twenty-five miles from
Colombo, the residence of Don Solomon Dias Bandaranaike,
one of the Mudaliyars of the Governor's Gate, affords the most
agreeable example of the dwelling of a low-country headman,
with its broad verandahs, spacious rooms and extensive offices,
shaded by palm groves and fruit trees. The chief himself, now
upwards of eighty years of age (1859) is a noble specimen of
the native race, and in his official costume, decorated with the
gold chains and medals by which his services have been recog-
nised by the British Government, his tall and venerable figure
makes a striking picture." Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike,
the grandson of this fine old Sinhalese gentleman, has added
to the attractions of the ancestral property at Veyangoda by
the addition of a horse breeding establishment, a deer run, and
modern arrangements for the breeding of high class stock.

In the neighbourhood there are two ancient Buddhist
foundations of the period of King Walagambahu (100 b.c.) :
Attangalla Wihire, six miles from the railway station on the
p

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2l8

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Mnin Line road to Ruangella ; and Warana Rock Temple, situated in a
very picturesque spot, about five miles distant. There are
double-bullock coaches running between Veyangoda and the
Attangalla VVihdre for the conveyance of passengers ; or single
hackeries can be hired at about threepence per mile.

Mlriffama

164 Jttt

Cultivation
of the
cocoanut

MiRiGAMA (30m. 54c.). — To the traveller proceeding to
Kandy for the first time the lowland scenery, as the train
proceeds from station to station, is an ever fascinating
panorama. He cannot fail to feel enchanted by the alternating
scenes of primitive husbandry, glimpses of villages embosomed
in palms, magnificent groups of tropical trees, and particularly
with the effect of the masses of thick forest broken up at fre-
quent intervals by deep recesses devoted to the cultivation of
paddy. From November to January, when the corn is rising
from its watery bed, snipe and other aquatic birds appear
in large numbers between Veyangoda and Rambukkana and
afford excellent sport. In February and March the attention
is arrested by the quaint operations of harvest, which are con-
ducted with a ceremonial to be illustrated and described later
in connection with the Kaodyan villages.

The country around Mirigama is very favourable to the
cultivation of the cocoanut, as is evidenced by the remarkable
yield of fruit on many of the trees. It is not often, however,
that the traveller can spare the time to inspect the various
features of interest in this important branch of tropical agri-
culture, but he may as he passes through it welcome some
account in these pages supplemented by illustrations that
belong to the district. Its ubiquity is often the only thing
noticed by the visitor about the cocoanut palm, and from this
arises the erroneous supposition that it is an indigenous plant,
whereas the native saying that it will not flourish away from
the sound of the human voice is nearer the truth. The cocoanut
is the chief source of Sinhalese wealth ; but unlike cinnamon
it depends upon man for its existence, and if left to nature
pines and dies. It is true, therefore, that wherever you see
the cocoanut palm there is population. Although European
colonists have considerably extended its cultivation it is pre-
eminently the national tree, the friend of the natives, all of
whom share in its benefits, from the wealthy owner of tens of
thousands of trees to the humble possessor of a tithe of one.
There are few gifts of the earth about which so much may
be said; its uses are infinite, and to the Sinhalese villager all
sufficient. ** With the trunk of the tree he builds his hut and
his bullock-stall, which he thatches with its leaves. His bolts
and bars are slips of the bark, by which he also suspends the
small shelf which holds his stock of home-made utensils and

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307. MR. W. H. WRIGHTS COCOANUT ESTATE. THE BUNGALOW AND GARDEN.

308. THE DRYING CHAMBERS.

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309. COCOANUT SEEDLINGS.

310. BASKET CAGES FOR SOAKING THE HUSKS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

221

vessels. He fences his little plot of chillies, tobacco and fine Maiii Line
grain, with the leaf stalks. The infant is swung to sleep in Mirigama
a rude net of coir-string made from the husk of the fruit; its
meal of rice and scraped cocoanut is boiled over a fire of cocoa- uses of the
nut shells and husks, and is eaten off a dish formed of the '^^^^"^^
plaited green leaves of the tree with a spoon cut out of the
nut-shell. When he goes fishing by torchlight his net is of
cocoanut fibre, the torch or chule is a bundle of dried cocoanut
leaves and flower-stalks ; the little canoe is the trunk of the
cocoa-palm tree, hollowed by his own hands. He carries home
his net and string of fish on a yoke, or pingo, formed of a
cocoanut stalk. When he is thirsty, he drinks of the fresh
juice of the young nut; when he is hungry, he eats its soft
kernel. If he have a mind to be merry, he sips a glass of
arrack, distilled from the fermented juice, and he flavours his
curry with vinegar made from this. toddy. Should he be sick,
his body will be rubbed with cocoanut oil; he sweetens his
coffee with jaggery or cocoanut sugar, and softens it with
cocoanut milk; it is sipped by the light of a lamp constructed
from a cocoanut shell and fed by cocoanut oil. His doors, his
windows, his shelves, his chairs, the water gutter under the
eaves, are all made from the wood of the tree. His spoons,
his forks, his basins, his mugs, his salt-cellars, his jars, his
child's money-box, are all constructed from the shell of the nut.
Over his couch when born, and over his grave when buried, a
bunch of cocoanut blossom is hung to charm away evil
spirits.''*

The marvellous bounty of the cocoanut palm has been grace-
fully summarised by the poet as

** clothing, meat, trencher, drink, and can,
Boat, cable, sail, mast, needle, all in one."

As an object of commerce cocoanut oil, of which upwards Extort of ou
of 5,000,000 gallons are annually exported, holds the first "'*' ^^''^
place. Next in importance is the fibre of the husk known as
coir. This is exported to the extent of about 10,000 tons
annually. Machinery enters to a small extent into its pre-
paration ; but primitive methods are still in vogue, especially
on the coast. In the backwaters cages or basket-work en-
closures constructed of thin bamboo are placed as seen in our
illustration (Plate 310) and into these the husks are thrown
and left to ferment in the brackish w^ater, after which they are
taken out, dried in the sun and the fibre beaten free by women
and children. The export of coprah (the dried kernel of the
nuts) amounts annually to about 375,000 cwt., while that of

* This charming description of the Sinhalese villager's necessities sup-
plied by this boantifal palm is from the pen of the late Mr. John Capper

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222

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

CocoamU
mills

Main Uoe the desiccated nut for confectionery amounts to upwards of
Mirigama i6,ooo,ooo Ibs. From this recital of figures it will be rightly
surmised that a very small proportion of the annual yield of
nuts leave the country in their natural state, nearly all the
export trade being in manufactured products. One thousand
millions is a reasonable estimate of the year's supply of cocoa-
nuts in Ceylon, about two fifths of which are exported in the
form of oil, coprah, confectionery and husked . friiit, : the re-
mainder being consumed by the population chiefly as food and
drink.

In Colombo there are mills containing machinery of the
most powerful and ingenious character for the expression of
the oil from the cocoanuts. Their design and construction are
the jealously guarded secret of the firms who own thenri, and
a mystery to the general public; but the /* chekku " or Sin-
halese mill illustrated by plate 311 will not escape the notice
of the stranger. There are about three thousand of fhem in
Thecktkku Ceylon. This primitive apparatus consists of a large mortar,
generally of hewn stone, but sometimes of iron or wood, with
a pestle worked by a lever which is drawn in a circle by a pair
of bullocks. The lever is simply the straight trunk of a tree
trimmed at the root end in such fashion as to fit a groove in
the mortar around which it works. The pestle is so shap>ed
and is attached to the lever in such a manner that the circular
movement of the bullocks results in grinding and pressing the
coprah or dried kernels- in the mortar, causing the oil to flow
out at the vent which is visible in our picture. The wretched
bullocks are often overworked, for the Sinhalese, though
usually kind and even indulgent to children, do not exhibit
these qualities in their treatment of the lower animals. The
rude construction of the apparatus, weighted at the end of
the lever with roughly hewn rocks upon which the scantily
clad driver disports himself, and the ear-splitting creaks of the
timber as the poor little bullocks communicate motion to the
pestle by means of^their humps form one of those typical
Oriental scenes which have not changed for a thousand years,
and victoriously hold their own against the innovations of the
foreigner even in this age of scientific appliances.

Very different from the cattle kept by the poor villager
are the magnificent animals met with on some of the large
estates. The specimen introduced in plate 312 was photo-
graphed on the estate of Mr. W. H. Wright, at Mirigama,
through whose courtesy I have been able to illustrate the
bungalow, garden, drying chambers, seedlings and trees in
full bearing, as exemplifying cocoanut cultivation on a large
scale.

The average yield per annum of a cocoanut tree is about

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311. THE CHEKKU OR OIL MILL.

iiC^TSIv' " ^i

..' f ^'^ '^i^^^HHH

, i

312 SINHALESE HEAVY DRAUGHT-BULL.

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313. A PROLIFIC TREE.

314. A OOOOANUT OROVC

315. A CROP OF COCOANUTt.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

225

fifty nuts, but exceptionally prolific trees are common enough Main Line
on well cultivated plantations, and of these the yield may Mingama
reach one hundred and fifty or more. A specimen is given in
plat.e 313. It will be observed that at least fifty nuts are clearly
visible, and as many more are hidden from view. The yield PrSi/ic trees
of this fine tree must be upwards of two hundred in the year.
The nature of the soil and the method of cultivation doubtless
account for difference in crop as they do in other branches of
agriculture.

The stranger from Europe often makes his first close
acquaintance with the unhusked cocoanut at the railway stations
of Ceylon, where little brown urchins, with hatchet in one
hand and in the other several nuts suspended by stalks,
perambulate the platforms shouting '* Kurumba, Kurumba.^* Kurumba
The thirsty traveller is thus invited to drink the water of the
fresh cocoanut, which is at once wholesome, cool and refresh-
ing. Many Europeans add an ounce of whiskey to the pint of
w-ater which the kurumba contains and declare that thus adul-
ter-^t^'' it is a drink for the gods. It is also regarded by many
v^xcellent preventive of gout. The convenience of the
u»\:verage when travelling in this thirsty country is great; for
one has but to shout ** Kurumba,** when for a few cents some
obliging native is generally found ready and willing to ascend
a tree and bring down the grateful nut.

After the water has been drawn off milk may be obtained
from the fresh nut by grating the soft white kernel and squeez-
ing the pulp thus obtained in a cloth.

When we see the size of the unhusked cocoanut and feel Husking the
its weight we are not a little surprised to learn that the usual '^"'^
rate for stripping the nuts of the husk is fifty cents or eight-
pence per thousand. A cooly accustomed to the work will
husk a thousand in twelve hours, a hard day's work for any
man, and more than a European labourer would like to do for
the money. A pointed crowbar is placed upright in the ground
and with singular dexterity the cooly brings down the nut upon
the point, and pressing it obliquely, tears off the husk with
a jerk. The fresh undried nut is used only as food introduced
into curries or puddings, the nuts intended for coprah, desic-
cating, or shipping whole being dried for some two or three
weeks befor^e being husked or otherwise treated.

At Mirigama the traveller is accommodated in a neat little Local
rest-house containing four bedrooms and the usual dining hall accommodaUon
and verandahs. It is situated a mile from the railway station
in an elevated position commanding beautiful scenery. Food
can be obtained here without being ordered in advance. Good
hackeries can be hired at twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile.

The manufactures comprise baskets, such furniture and

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226

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AmbepuMa

182 /«r<

Main Un« bullock-conveyances as are required for local use, and desic-
Mingama cated cocoanUt to the extent of about one hundred tons a
month. There are plumbago mines in the district from which
about one hundred and fifty tons per month are despatched by
rail. Betel leaf is also grown for the supply of distant markets
to the extent of about six tons per month. The goods and
passenger traffic at Mirigama testify to a very flourishing
district — about 70,000 passengers and 8,000 tons of freight
bringing a total income of about 100,000 rupees.
AfUiquUies The antiquities of the district consist of Buddhist wihdres

of varying periods, the most interesting being the Maladeniya,
three and a half miles from the railway station. This, like
so many others, is built upon a rock three hundred feet high
and commands a good view. It is said to date from the reign
of Walagambahu in the first century B.C.

At Mirigama the foot-hills that surround the mountain zone
begin to appear and the Maha-oya flows gracefully amongst
them, adding considerable charm to the landscape.

Ambepussa (34m. 45c.). — Ambepussa possesses the general
characteristics of Mirigama, and these need not be again
described ; but the area served by the railway station is not so
large. The village from which it derives its name is four miles
away upon the old highway to Kandy, whereas the station in
reality is situated in the village of Keendeniya. Ambepussa was
a place of importance in earlier times, and owns a rest-house
more than usually capacious, built upon an eminence over-
looking charming country and possessing extensive grounds.
It is, however, essential for the traveller to give notice of his
intended arrival if he is likely to require provisions. The
country here becomes more mountainous and the Maha-oya runs
a wild and tortuous course. The climate is exceedingly hot.
Good snipe shooting is to be had from November to February
as well as hare, wild boar and deer.

Aiawwa Alawwa (40m. 24c.). — Alawwa is one of the least important

i^feet of the main line stations. The scenery, however, becomes more

varied in character as we pass through this district. The
railway runs parallel to the Maha-oya, which affords oppor-
tunities to the snap-shotter ; for there are many exquisite vistas
between the clumps of bamboo that decorate the banks; and
with the present day rapid lenses and focal-plane-shutters
photography from a moving train is not impossible, as many
of the illustrations in this volume prove. Before the railway-
opened up this district to cultivation it was so malarious that
it is said that every sleeper laid took its toll of a human life,
so terrible was the death rate from the fever-laden miasma of
some of the tracts of jungle-land that had to be penetrated.

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ja^an

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'^^3^B^3Mki^v "^

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1 s

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

229

POLGAHAWELA (45m. 34c.). Polgahawcla is the junction Main Line

station for the northern line. Passengers are afforded every Poigahaweia
facility for comfort. There is also a rest-house quite near the ^^^^^
station fitted with bedrooms and provided with light refresh-
ments. The agriculture of the district is the same as described
in connection with Mirigama, with the considerable addition of
plantains, which are grown here extensively for markets which
are brought into reach by the railway, about one hundred and
fifty tons being despatched in the course of each month. This
station serves the large and important district of Kc^galle, the K^gaiie
distance to the town of K^galle being ten miles in a southerly
direction, and to which there is a mail-coach service conveying
European passengers for a fare of two rupees. The traveller
who is intending to see all the most interesting and beautiful
places in Ceylon should not omit Kdgalle from his itinerary.
It provides a pleasant excursion from Kandy either by motor
car or by rail to Polgahawela and thence by coach. The
situation of the town is lovely and the scenery by which it
is encompassed is exquisite, while the antiquities scattered
throughout the district are too numerous to mention here.*
One of the most interesting, however, is so near to Polgaha- AntiquUUs
wela, being only two and a half miles distant on the coach
road to K^galle, that some reference to it must be made. This
is an old Buddhist temple known as Wattdrama, built in the
third century and endowed with the lands and villages around .
it by King Gothibhaya. Its age is attested no less by ancient
writings and traditions than by the interesting remains.

Besides the ruins of the original edifice, consisting of large
monolith pillars and various steps and door-frames, there is a
group of buildings of various later dates composed partly of
ancient materials.

About a mile from the railway station at Galbodagamakanda
may be seen twelve granite pillars, the only remains of a
beautiful palace said to have been built by King Bhuwenake
Bahu II., in a.d. 13 19, for his sixty-seven beautiful queens!

A large number of Talipot Palms are to be seen between Talipot palms
Polgahawela and Kandy; and fortunate will the traveller be
who happens to pass through this district when a large number
of them are in flower. The botanical world offers no more
beautiful sight than this. The period when it may be enjoyed
is, however, quite uncertain, as the flower bursts forth once
only in the lifetime of the tree when it is approaching its
hundredth year. It occasionally happens that scores of trees

* The antiquarian who explores this district should provide himself with
a copy of the " Report on the K^galle district " by the Archaeological
Commissioner; obtamable at the Government Record Office, Colombo;
price, six rupees.

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230

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line

Rambulduimi

290 ftet

Scenery 0/ the
pass

are in flower at one time, while at another not one may be
seen. We shall fully discuss the characteristics and uses of
this queen of palms when we reach Peradeniya. It may, how-
ever, be observed here that its leaves are much used in the
construction of camps for the officers of the Survey Depart-
ment, and the supplies for this purpose are mainly drawn from
the neighbourhood of Polgahawela.

Rambukkana (52m. lie). — At Rambukkana the ascent into
the Kandyan mountains begins, and the beauty of the land-
scape approaches the sublime. If Ceylon presented no other
spectacle of interest to the traveller it would still be worth his
while to visit Kandy if only to see the panorama that unfolds
itself as the train moves upward in its winding and intricate
cx>urse on the scarped sides of the mountains overlooking the
lovely Dekanda valley. Two powerful engines are now attached
to our train, one at either end, and so sharp are the curves that
it is frequently possible for the passenger seated in the train
to see both; or from his seat to take a photograph including
in the landscape a large portion of the train in which he is
travelling, as in plate 326. At one moment, on the edge of
a sheer precipice, we are gazing downwards some thousand
feet below; at another we are looking upwards at a mighty
crag a thousand feet above; from the zigzags by which we
climb the mountain sides fresh views appear at every turn;
far-reaching valleys edged by the soft blue ranges of distant
mountains and filled with luxuriant masses of dense forest,
relieved here and there by the vivid green terraces of the rice
fields ; cascades of lovely flowering creepers, hanging in fes-
toons from tree to tree and from crag to crag ; above and below
deep ravines and foaming waterfalls dashing their spray into
mist as it falls into the verdurous abyss ; fresh mountain peaks
appearing in ever-changing grouping as we gently wind along
the steep gradients; daring crossings from rock to rock, so
startling as to unnerve the timid as we pass over gorges cleft
in the mountain side and look upon the green depths below, so
near the edge of the vertical precipice that a fall from the
carriage would land us sheer sixteen hundred feet below ; the
lofty Talipot is flourishing on either side; the scattered huts
and gardens, and the quaint people about them, so primitive
in their habits which vary little from those of two thousand
years ago — these are some of the features of interest as we
journey into the Kandyan district.

The precipitous mountain of Allagalla which we illustrate
by plate 325 is the most conspicuous feature of the landscape.
Our train creeps along upon its steep side of granite. The
track is visible in our picture (Plate 324) like a belt passing

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324. SENSATION ROCK.

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THE STREAK

326, THE REAR OF THE TRAIN WHILE IN MOTION. m^m^U, -^
CARRIAGE WINDOW NEAR THE FRONT ENGINE.

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 233

around the rock. The peak towers aloft 2,500 feet above us, Main Line
while the beautiful valley lies a thousand feet below. On- the ^"«ff«''«
far side of that peak lies Hataraliyadda, a warm but radiant
valley, where primeval manners and customs are yet unin-
fluenced by the march of western civilisation. A glance at our
illustrations of this district, which can be found by reference
to the index, will enable us, as it were, to look round the
corner ; but further reference to Hataraliyadda will come later.
Allagalla is always majestic, but most beautiful immediately
after excessive rainfall, when it is literally besprinkled with
cataracts, some of which burst forth many hundreds of feet
above the railway, and dash into the valleys some thousand feet
below, increasing in volume and gathering enormous impetus
as they pass under the line in deep fissures. The height of
Allagalla is 3,394 feet. Tea grows upon its steep acclivities,
and those who arc occupied in its cultivation on these giddy
heights are enviable spectators of the most varied and beautiful '
atmospheric scenes that are to be found in Ceylon. Unsettled
weather is extremely frequent and is productive of an endless
variety of cloud and storm effects over the wonderful valley
which undulates below until in the far distance it is backed by
the rugged mountains opposed to Allagalla and which reach
a greater height. At one time a vast sea of mists is rolling
in fleecy clouds over the lowland acres and the summits of the
hills are standing out from it like wooded islands ; at another
every shape of the beautiful landscape is faultlessly defined
and every colour is vivid beneath the tropical sun ; then an
hour or two will pass and rolling masses of dense black vapours
will approach the mountain while the sunbeams play on the
distant hills; now the sun becomes obscured, a streak of fire
(Plate 325) flashes through the black mass and immediately the
whole mountain seems shaken by the terrific peal of thunder —
thunder of a quality that would turn any unaccustomed heart
pale. Then follows a downpour at the rate of a full inch an
hour; the cascades turn to roaring cataracts, the dry paths to
rushing torrents and the rivulets to raging floods. The rice-fields
suddenly become transformed into lakes and the appearance of
the valleys suggests considerable devastation by water; but
it is not so : the torrent passes away almost as suddenly as
it comes, and the somewhat bruised and battered vegetation
freshens and bursts into new life as the heavy pall of purple
cloud disperses and the gleams of the golden sun return to
cheer its efforts. That tea or anything else should grow on
these rocky slopes is one of the marvels of this wonderful land.
Our attention will perhaps be mostly attracted to the
Dekanda valley (Plate 327). The terraced rice-fields, the beauti-
ful trees, plants and creepers upon the slopes beneath us, the
Q

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234 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line distant mountains rising in tiers on all sides and o'erhung with
vapours whose forms and contrasts of tone from the deepest
black to the purest white are almost always present, the curious
shapes displayed by the heights, the Camel Rock, the Bible

utuwankanda Rock and Utuwankanda — all these contribute to make our slow
progress seem all too rapid. Utuwankanda, the curious crag
observable in plate 327, and a close view of which is given in
plate 316, was in the early sixties the stronghold of a famous
Sinhalese bandit, who for years terrorised the district, and
whose exploits in robbery and murder have already reached the
legendary stage. Sardiel was of small stature and one would
have expected an ordinary boy of fourteen to prove his match.
Originally a barrack boy in Colombo, detected in theft, he fled
and adopted robbery as a profession. He a|>pears to have
gathered around him some kindred spirits, and to have fixed
on Utuwankanda as his home. He was dreaded by Europeans
and natives alike, showing marvellous resource in stealing arms
and ammunition and using them with deadly effect in his
nefarious expeditions. After he had so terrorised the district
that no contractor would undertake the transit of goods from
Colombo to Kandy without an escort, a reward of ;^ioo was
offered for his apprehension. The police were powerless against
him. He shot six of them on a single occasion. At length
he was taken by Mr. F. R. Saunders (now Sir Frederick
Saunders), then district judge of Kegalle, who, accompanied
by some men of the Ceylon Rifles, fearlessly entered his strong-
hold. His career ended in his execution by hanging at Kandy.
We are now in the freshness of mountain air and have left
behind us the steamy low-country, where the simmering heat,
although the efficient cause of the beautiful features of the
landscape, is nevertheless very trying to our energies. For
thirteen miles we have been slowly crawling round the moun-
tain sides, ever moving upwards, till at length, through a
narrow pass, we emerge upon one of those ledges of the
mountain system which were referred to in the introductory
part of this work. There also we saw how the brave Kandyans
held their capital for centuries against all the attempts of

Anamietu Europeans to take it. There was an ancient prophecy current

^i?///c7 amongst them that whoever should pierce the rock and make

a road into Kandy from the plains would receive the kingdom
as his reward. The prophecy was at length fulfilled by the
British, who made the road, pierced the rock and secured the
safe and permanent possession of the prize. The scene of the
exploit is now before us. From the train we may see the road
and the pierced rock as illustrated by our plate. The eminence
rising above this rock is known as Scouts' Hill from the cir-
cumstance that the Kandyans jealously guarded this gate to

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327. THE DEKANDA VALLEY. PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TRAIN WHILE

IN MOTION.

32a THE FULFILMENT OF A PROPHECY.

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329-336. ROAD SCENES AT KADUGANNAWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

237

their kingdom with their forces always in readiness, should an Main Line
enemy appear from the low-country. Each inhabitant was
subject to sentinel duty and thousands were kept at posts over-
looking the plains around, many even having to keep their
watch on the tops of trees commanding extensive views of the
whole country round, so that no person could get either in
or out of the kingdom unobserved and without permission.
Indeed, so jealous were the apprehensions of the Kandyan
monarch when the British appeared in Ceylon that a strict
system of passports from one district to another was adopted.

The lofty column observable in our plate comes into view The Daufson
as a signal that we have arrived at the top of the pass. Both '"«"""•«'»'
road and rail here converge and make their entrance into the
Kandyan country together, the road being most picturesque at
its entrance to Kadugannawa (Plate 338). The monument is
not, as is often supposed, in commemoration of the introduction
of the railway, but a memorial to Captain Dawson of the Royal
Engineers, who planned and superintended the construction of
the road. It was erected by public subscription in 1832.

Kadugannawa (65m.) — At Kadugannawa we are at once in Kadu^nnawa
most interesting Kandyan country, its chief attractions to us 1,690 A*/
being the singular beauty of the road scenery and the historical
temples in the district. Plate 337 has for its subject the bazaar
and the railway near the station. N'os. 329 to 336 and 339 arc
introduced to give some idea of the character of the road
between Kadugannawa and Peradeniya. It will be noticed
that the railway runs parallel to this road in several places, the
photographs being taken to illustrate both road and rail.

Now that we have reached the region where both climate
and opportunity combine in offering inducements to the tra-
veller to visit the interesting wihdres, pansaTaf id dewdles
which are so closely associated with Buddhist life nd thought
in Ceylon, it is fitting to pause for a moment for the definition
of terms with which we must now become familiar.

Wihdre literally and strictly means a temple of Buddha w^ith ^Vihitres
an altar over which is placed an image of the Buddjia. In
general use, however, the term includes three or four buildings :
the pansala, or abode of the priests ; the ddgdba, or dome-shaped
monument, which usually enshrines some relic ; the hodhi-
maluwa, or platform and altar surrounding a sacred bo-tree,
and the wihdre or temple of the image. In large pansalas,
accommodating a number of monks, there is usually a poya-gd
or hall in which the monks recite their confessions. To some
of the temples there is also attached a hami rnadtiwa, or preach-
ing hall, where the Buddhist scriptures are read and expounded.

The history of the dewdle offers a striking example of the
adoption and absorption by a conquering religion of d :es

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238

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line

Kadugannawa
Dcuw'iles

A lutnuxcara

Pilgrims
possessed by
demons

previously in possession of the field. As Rome took to herself
many of the deities of the Hellenic world, and as even later
religious systems are not altogether untinctured by those they
have superseded, so the victorious Buddhism that invaded
Ceylon in the early part of the third century B.C. felt the in-
fluence of the Hindu gods worshipped by the earlier colonists
and by the Tamils who came into the island at a later date.
It was impossible, however, for the self-denying faith of Buddha
to incorporate in its mild and humane cult repugnant features
of the dethroned faith. The only course then was to substitute
for their Objectionable characteristics others more in conformity
with the precepts of Gotama. In this way Vishnu, the second
person of the Hindu trinity, becomes the tutelary deity of the
island, while the third person, Siva, adopted under the name
of Nata, is the Expected -of the next KaJpa, the new Buddha
who is to reign in succession to the present. Kataragam, the
Hindu god of war, is honoured for the aid given by him to
Rama, when the latter invaded Ceylon and defeated the demon-
king Ravana in order to rescue Sita from captivity. To these
three deities, and to Pattini, the goddess of chastity, the
majority of the dewciles will be found to be dedicated.

The famous Alutnuwara dewdle is about five and a half miles
on the Colombo side of Kadugannawa, the first four miles of
the journey being on the main road and the remaining part
by paths through gardens and fields. Unlike most dewdles this
one is dedicated to the chief of all the Ceylon demons. It was
originally a Vishnu dewdle and its history dates from the reign
of Pardkrama Bahu, a.d. 1267, tradition carrying it back some
centuries'earlier. At the present day a hill is pointed out, near
the bridge which spans the Hingula Oya at the foot of the
Kadugannawa pass, upon the top of which VVdhala Banddra
Deviyo, the dread demi-god, rested waiting until the present
dewdle was built, where he is believed still to reside. He is
said to have miraculously removed a massive rock, eight hun-
dred feet high, and to have cleared the ground for the erection
of the temple. At this day Bandara is greatly feared.

** Pilgrims from every part of the island repair to this temple
during all seasons of the year, hoping to get relief from some
demon influence, with which they suppose themselves to be
afflicted, and which appears to them to be irremovable by any
other means. This is especially the case with those persons,
most frequently women, who are supposed to be possessed by a
demon.. Dancing, singing, and shouting without cause, trem-
bling and shaking of the limbs, or frequent and prolonged
fainting fits are considered the most ordinary symptoms of
possession by a demon. Some women, when under this imagin-
ary influence, attempt to run away from their homes, often

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337. KADUGANNAWA.

33a ROAD SCENE: ENTERING KADUGANNAWA.

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339. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA.

340. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

241

using foul language, and sometimes biting and tearing their
hair and flesh. The fit does not generally last more than an hour
at a time ; sometimes one fit succeeds another at short intervals ;
sometimes it comes upon the woman only on Saturdays and
Wednesdays, or once in three or four months ; but always in-
variably during the performance of any demon ceremony.

* * On these occasions temporary relief is obtained by the in-
cantations of the KatUidiyd; but when it appears that no in-
cantations can effect a permanent cure, the only remaining
remedy is to go to Gala-kepu Dewdle, where the following scene
takes place. When the woman is within two or three miles of
the temple, the demon influence is supposed to come on her,
and she walks in a wild, hurried, desperate manner towards
the temple. When in this mood no one can stop her; if any
attempt it, she will tear herself to pieces rather than be stopped.
She walks faster and faster, as she comes nearer and nearer to
the holy place, until at last, on reaching it, she either creeps
into a corner and sits there, crying and trembling, or remains
quite speechless and senseless, as if overpowered by extreme
fear, until the Kapuwa begins the exorcism. Sometimes she
walks to the temple very quietly without any apparent influence
of the demon on her, and that influence seems to come upon
her only when the exorcism begins.

** The principal room of the temple is partitioned off by cur-
tains into three divisions, the middle one of which is the
sanctum sanctorum of the god, as the demon chief is generally
called. The Kapuwa stands outside the outermost curtain with
the woman opposite to him. After the offerings of money, betel
leaves, and silver ornaments have been devoutly and cere-
moniously laid in a sort of small box opposite to the Kapuwa,
he tells the god, as if he were actually sitting behind the curtain
at the time, in a loud and conversational tone, and not in the
singing ornamental style of invocations made to other gods

and demons, that (the woman) has come all the way from

(the village) , situated in (the k6rale or district),

to this temple for the purpose of complaining to his godship
of a certain demon or demons, who have been afflicting her

for the last years ; that she has made certain offerings to

the temple, and that she prays most humbly that his godship
may be graciously pleased to exorcise the demon, and order
him never to molest her again. In this way he makes a long
speech, during which the woman continues trembling and
shaking in the most violent manner, sometimes uttering loud
shouts. Presently the Kapuwa puts to her the question, * Wilt
thou, demon, quit this woman instantly, or shall I punish thee
for thy impudence? ' To this she sometimes replies, still
trembling and shaking as before, * Yes, I will leave her for

Main Line

KadUgannawa

Casting out
demons

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242

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Flogging

liisoheJient

demons

Main Line ever ; * but more generally she at first refuses ; when this

Kadugannaxva happens, the Kupuwa grasps in his right hand a good stout
cane and beats her most mercilessly, repeating at the same
time his question and threats. At last, after many blows have
been inflicted, the woman replies * Yes, I will leave her this
instant ; * she then ceases to tremble and shake, and soon
recovers her reason, if indeed she had ever lost it. So she and
her friends return home congratulating themselves on the happy
result of their journey — a result which is invariably the same
in the case of every pilgrim to the temple.

** We know thirty or forty women who have made this pil-
grimage, only two of whom have ever again shown any symp-
toms of the return of demon possession. It is said that some
thirty or forty years -ago, especially during the time of the
Kandyan Kings, four bundles of canes were left at the temple
by the Kapuwa every evening before he returned home; that
during the night loud shouts and cries and wailings were heard
proceeding from the temple, and that the next morning, instead
of bundles of canes, there were only small bits of them found
dispersed here and there in the premises, as if the canes had
been broken- in flogging disobedient demons."*

Gadaiadeniya Gadaladcniya is within easier reach of Kadugannawa. Two

and a half miles distant, upon the main road to Kandy, at a
place called Embilmigama, near the sixty-fifth mile stone from
Colombo, a pathway on the south side leads to a typical temple
village, three-quarters of a mile from the main road. Here on
a small hill will be found one of the most interesting and pic-
turesque wihares in. Ceylon, the Gadaiadeniya. A considerable
portion of the building is original and dates from A.n. 1344.
A most pleasant excursion can be made to this temple by
driving from Kandy, seven miles, or by rail to Kadugannawa,
and thence b\' hackery, the cost of which is thirty cents a mile.
This historical place is fully illustrated in plates 443, 461, 462
and 463, and an architectural description of it will be found on
pages 341 and 342.

Lankatiiaki The most beautiful of all the Kandyan temples, the Lanka-

tilak^, may be reached by continuing the bridle path for about
two and a half miles past Gadaiadeniya. It is hoped that at
an early date 'this bridle path will be converted into a cart road,
when it. will be possible to drive from Kandy to both these
ancient temples. Lankatilake may also be reached from Kandy
vidi Peradeniya Junction, four and a half miles, and thence by
a minor road to Dawulagala, three and a half miles, after which
a footpath must be taken for the last mile. This temple is
illustrated by our frontispiece and plates 459 and 460; its
architecture is described on pages 337 and 338.

• Extract from the Diary of Mr. R. W. levers.

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^ 4 i^. -^-1

■Hi \. J '■'

341. VILLAGE HEADMEN : KADUGANNAWA.

342. SCENE AT KADUGANNAWA.

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1^4 ^^

^ "^avy^^g ,•

r -'

^M^*^

343. IN A KANDYAN VILLAGE.

344. RODIYAS AT UDUGALPITIYA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 245

Embekke dewdle is nearly a mile distant by bridle path from Main Une
Dawuldgala. Architecturally this temple is very interesting. See Kadugannawa
plates 454, 447 and 450, and description on pages 329 and 330.

Still another romantic and historical spot is to be reached
by turning oflf the main road at the same place, namely Embil-
migama, about two and a half miles from Kadugannawa, and
at the sixty-fifth mile stone from Colombo; but this time we
take the minor road on the north side leading to Siyambala-
goda (three miles), and from this village it is three-quarters of
a mile walk to Dodanwala Maha dewdle, illustrated by plates
472 and 473, and described on page 350.

Between Kadugannawa and Gadaladeniya there is a small RoJiyas
hamlet known as Udugalpitiya occupied by Rodiyas, a tribe of
natives so degraded from time immemorial that even under
the present beneficent rule of the British they have been unable
to free themselves from the contempt and complete social
ostracism which have always been the portion meted out to them
by the rest of the native inhabitants of the country. No one
knows why these poor wretches, for perhaps thousands of years,
have been denied all compassion and treated with the utmost
inhumanity, yet the stigma is there, and under the system of
government of native communities through their own chiefs,
which in most respects is admitted to be wise and excellent,
the old prejudice is likely to remain. We can give no better
account of these miserable outcasts than that of Tennent;
written half a century ago.

** They were not permitted to cross a ferry, to draw water
at a well, to enter a village, to till land, or learn a trade, as
no recognised caste could deal or hold intercourse with a
Rodiya. Formerly tht were not allowed to build houses with
two walls or a double roof, but hovels in which a hurdle leaned
against a single wall and rested on the ground. They were
forced to subsist on alms or such gifts as they might receive
for protecting the fields from wild beasts or burying the car-
cases of dead cattle; but they were not allowed- to come within
a fenced field even to beg. They converted the hides of animals
into ropes, and prepared monkey-skins for covering tom-toms
and drums, which they bartered for food and other necessaries.
They were prohibited from wearing a cloth on their heads, and
neither men nor women were allowed to cover their bodies
above the waist or below the knee. If benighted they dare
not lie down in a shed appropriated to other travellers, but hid
themselves in caves or deserted watch-huts. They couid not
enter a court of justice, and if wronged had to utter their com-
plaints from a distance. Though nominally Buddhists (but con-
jointly demon-worshippers), they were not allowed to go into
a temple, and could only pray * standing afar off. *

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246 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line ** Although they were permitted to have a headman, who

Kadugannaufa ^rgg Styled their hollo-walhia, his nomination was stigmatised by
Kodiyas requiring the sanction of the common jailor, who was likewise

the sole medium of communication between the Rodiyas and
the rest of the human race. So vile and valueless were they
in the eyes of the community, that, under the Kandyan rule,
when it was represented to the king that the Rodiyas had so
multiplied as to be a nuisance to the villagers, an order was
given to reduce their numbers by shooting a certain proportion
in each kuppiyame. The most dreaded of all punishments under
the Kandyan dynasty was to hand over the lady of a high caste
offender to the Rodiyas ; and the mode of her adoption was by
the Rodiya taking betel from his own mouth and placing it in
hers, after which till death her degradation was indelible.

** Under the rule of the British, which recognises no dis-
tinction of caste, the status of the Rodiyas has been nominally,
and even materially, improved. Their disqualification for
labour no longer exists ; but after centuries of mendicancy and
idleness they evince no inclination for work. Their pursuits
and habits are still the same, but their bearing is a shade less
servile, and they pay a profounder homage to a high than a
low easte Kandyan, and manifest some desire to shake off the
opprobrious epithet of Rodiyas. Their houses are better built,
and contain a few articles of furniture, and in some places they
have acquired patches of land and possess cattle. Even the
cattle share the odium of their owners, and to distinguish them
from the herds of the Kandyans, their masters are obliged to
suspend a cocoanut shell from their lYfpks by a leathern cord.
** Socially their hereditary stigma remains unaltered; their
contact is still shunned by the Kandyans as pollution, and
instinctively the Rodiyas crouch to their own degradation. In
carrying a burden they still load the pingo (yoke) at one end
only, instead of both, like other natives. They fall on their
knees with uplifted hands to address a man of the lowest
recognised caste ; and they shout on the approach of a traveller
to warn him to stop till they can get off the road and allow
him to pass without the risk of too close a proximity to their
persons.*'

It will be observed from our photograph that they now
avail themselves of some privileges that were denied under the
Kandyan kings. They have huts of mud walls and palm-
thatched roofs, while they do not now appear so scantily clad
as required in earlier times. To display their occupations some
are holding fish-snaring baskets, while one woman is in the act
of spinning a plate in evidence of their traditional art of
juggling. We shall notice also that they are people of no mean
physique, a feature that occasions us some surprise, considering

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345. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA

346. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA.

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■ii^^^A^

bZ!^i!^jHH

mtm -\

347. THE OLD SATIN WOOD BRIDGE.

348. RAILWAY BRIDGE AT PERADENIYA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

249

their deprivations. Their ancestry, however, may include some Main Line
of the bluest of blood, in view of the old system of punishing Kadugamiawa
high caste offenders by casting them into the ranks of the
Rodiyas. Sometimes one sees amongst them women of con-
siderable beauty, but our group here given is taken haphazard,
and is fairly representative.

Kadugannawa is said to have been a health resort in earlier
times, and with its salubrious air, its good supply of pure spring
water, the grandeur of its scenery and its proximity to interest-
ing places it is still deserving the attention of Kandyans as a
charming suburb.

Peradeniva Junction (70m. 46c.). — Here the fast trains of Peradeniya
the main line are divided; the Kandy and Matald f>ortion pro- Junction
ceeding northwards, and the Bandarawela part to the south ^-ssa/"'
with the passengers for Nuwara Eliya and the Uva country.
Proceeding in the Kandy train we next come to

Peradeniva New (70m. 86c.). — Upon approaching this peradeniya
station we cross the Mahaweliganga (the great sandy river) New
by the bridge seen in plate 348. As we cross this bridge we ^»572/«/
get the view presented by plate 347 ; it will, however, be ob-
served that a modern stone bridge has now replaced the his-
torical satin-wood bridge which for threescore years and ten
was a conspicuous and beautiful ornament in the landscape.
This bridge was a remarkable structure; it crossed the river
with a single span, in which there was neither nail nor bolt,
the whole of the massive woodwork being dovetailed together.
It was constructed entirely of beautiful yellow satin-wood, which
fifty years ago was so plentiful in the forests of Ceylon that
it was commonly used for building purposes. The present
structure is of pleasing design, and is perhaps the most orna-
mental bridge in Ceylon, but it lacks the aesthetic qualities of
its predecessor. Under normal conditions the river flows fully
seventy feet below the bridge, but at the burst of the monsoon
such a mighty torrent rolls between the banks that the bridge
then clears the water by about ten feet only.

Peradeniya New is tho station for the Royal Botanic
Gardens of Peradeniya, world-famed for their usefulness and
their beauty. Here, in a siti":tion perfectly ideal from whatever
point of view it is regarded, is a marvellous collection of living
specimens of the flora of the whole tropical world, as well as
a great herbarium and museum of Ceylon plants. The term
Rpyal Botanic Gardens, however, stands for something vastly
more important than the great show-place of floral wonders
which has gained their wide repute. From their inception a
century ago they have been organised to foster and assist
agricultural enterprise; but in recent years the scope of their
R

Peradeniya
Gardens

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250

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Peradeniya
Gardens

Wayside

scenes
Peradeniya

Main Uoe usefulness in this direction has been so widened and- developed
that the title now indicates a government department of botany
and agriculture presided over by a director and staff of scientific
specialists in botany, chemistry, mycology ai^d entomology,
under whose direction all agricultural possibilities are put to
the test and experimental culture carried on in various parts
of the country. Thus not only are all useful and ornamental
trees and plants of other countries introduced into the colony,
but technical and scientific advice and instruction are given as
to every condition that makes for success in culture, in the
treatment and prevention of diseases of plant life and the
destruction and prevention of insect pests. In no country
is more assistance for agriculturists provided, by the Govern-
ment, whose attitude to the native is truly paternal; for it
supplies him with seeds, advice and instruction, free of cost;
it cares for his prosperity ; finds out what it is desirable for
him to grow and experiments upon the product for him ; advises
him upon every point, and periodically enquires how he is
getting on.

The Gardens are rather under four miles from Kandy, and
the visitor has choice of road or rail. If he chooses the former
the drive to and from Peradeniya will not be the least interesting
part of the excursion; for the road is not only exceedingly
picturesque, as may be gathered by a glance a^ plates 349, 350
and 354, but presents many quaint scenes. The variety and
aspect of the native dwellings, some squalid, others with con-
siderable pretensions to luxury ; but all nestling amidst glorious
shrubs, trees and creepers, and having their own little gardens
prolific of papaws, curry seeds, garlic, pepper, pumpkins, cocoa
and sweet potatoes — all in wild profusion. Some are em-
bowered in bread-fruit trees, the foliage of which is in marked
contrast to the waving plumes of the cocoanut and other palms
amongst which it grows. The fruit, which is very abundant,
grows in large green pods, about the size of melons, which
nestle beneath each separate crown of leaves. It is used as
food by the natives in various preparations ; but is, as a rule,
disliked by Europeans. Swarms of little brown urchins frolic
on the roadside, and add not a little to the picturesqueness of
the scene. Pingo bearers walk to and fro with their burdens
of fruit and vegetables representing many varieties quite strange
to us. The pingo is a long and flat piece of wood from the
kitul pjilm, very tough and pliable. The cooly, having sus-
pended his load to the two ends in baskets or nets, places the
stave upon his shoulder at the middle, and is thus enabled by
the elastic spring and easy balance of the pingo to carry great
weights for a considerable distance. Some pingos are made
from the leaf-stalk of the cocoanut palm, which is even more

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•■

HV;

< (

ifs

->^ -

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pei»'""'5'-*rio.

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS,
PERADENIYA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 253

pliable than the kitul. This is a favourite means of carrying w»*" ^'"«

liquids, placed in earthenware chatties attached to the pingo ^«^«^'"»»3'«

by means of coir. Another familiar roadside character is the

gram vendor. She sits patiently during the greater part of

the day selling gram by the half-cent *s worth to passers-by. ^^y^i^e

As might be conjectured from the size of the little bamboo

measure (see plate 351) the gram is sold in very small quantities

as a delicacy. It resembles dried peas in appearance, and tastes

rather like them. The village silversmith will also attract our

attention as we pass along the road ; for he works serenely

in his open shed with tools of his own construction, and

for his furnace a couple of simple native-made earthenware

bowls. He does a roaring trade in anklets, nose-rings, bangles

and earrings, converting the silver savings of the modest

villager into these articles and securing them upon limbs or

features, where they continue to represent savings and to

gratify vanity until an evil day comes when they are removed

by the same hands to be sold and transferred to another thrifty

and vain person. This modest worker is more skilful than his

primitive methods would lead you to suppose, and can convert

your gold or silver coins into useful articles of jewellery while

you wait, and wait you should, lest by accident the quality

of your metal should deteriorate.

Another thing which the stranger will notice upon this road
is the temporary Buddhist shrine, erected to receive offerings
from the devout wayTarer. It is frequently a very modest erec-
tion, consisting of a chair surmounted by a frame of bamboo
sticks, covered with a few strips of calico, forming a canopy
within which is placed a small image of Buddha and a bowl for
offerings ; at the close of the day the offerings are conveyed to
the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy.

For obvious reasons we cannot describe here all the
thousand and one things which seize the attention of the
traveller upon this interesting road. A day should be given
to Peradeniya by every visitor who stays sufficiently long in
Kandy to afford it. The best time to set out is the early
morning. There is an excellent rest-house near the entrance
to the gardens where breakfast and lunch may be obtained.

The gardens are situated within a loop made by the f^oyai
Mahaweliganga, which forms a peninsula of about a mile in Ga^Jlns
length with a minimum breadth of six hundred yards. The
enclosure covers one hundred and fifty acres, and the elevation
above sea-level is 1,600 feet. The general configuration will
be seen by a glance at our plan. The facilities for inspecting
the plants could scarcely be improved upon, and although the
greatest enjoyment will generally fall to the pedestrian, the
roads over which driving is permissible afford good opportuni-

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254

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Peradeniya
Gardens

The red

- cotton tree

Main Line ties for those who like to take their pleasures lazily. In two.
particulars only is there need for some little precaution : do.
not enter thickets or overgrown places where you have not
a clear \'iew of the ground you tread, for there are snakes
that might not regard you as a friend if trodden upon
unawares ; but which would not be aggressive if encountered
in the open and givea reasonable notice of your coming. The
pretty snakes that may be seen in the trees are harmless and
may be approached. The other precaution is that you must
not walk on wet grass if you would avoid being attacked by
the bloodthirsty little ground leech of Ceylon. He does not
appear after the sun has dried the surface of the ground; for
he is quite helpless in the absence of moisture; but after a
shower he will afjpear in his thousands, and it is then advisable
to keep to the roads and paths. Insects and birds abound, and
with such reptiles as lizards and chameleons of many species
excite a never failing interest. The task of exploring the
gardens will prove easy enough with the help of our plan, and
thcf directing boards that are erected at the entrance to the
various drives and walks. The botanist will find the principal
plants and trees labelled.

Upon approaching the main entrance there will be noticed
quite near the rest-house the fine specimen of the Red Cotton-
tree (Bojftthax malaharicum), which we illustrate (Plate 355).
This is the tree known locally as Katu-imbul, and is one of
the few trees in Ceylon that are deciduous. Its most attractive
period is January or February, when it presents a gorgeous
spectacle, due to its being literally covered with large fleshy
flowers of bright scarlet hue, which it showers in profusion
upon the green sward, thus providing for itself the rich setting
of a carpet of blossoms. Two months later this tree has an
entirely. difl"erent appearance ; the blossoms have departed, the
pods have become mature, and bursting, scatter abroad their
cotton like flakes of snow. Other notable specimens of this
fine tree exist in the grounds of the King's pavilion, Kandy.

On the left of the entrance to the gardens we are now
attracted by a grove of Assam rubber trees (Ficus elastica).
The little plant with its bright green oval leaves, which in
England we are accustomed to see in sitting-rooms and con-
servatories, grows in its native land to an enormous size, and
throws out horizontal boughs to an extent of more than fifty
feet. It is most remarkable, however, for its snake-like roots,
which extend from the base of the trunk to a distance greater
than the height of the tree. Sometimes they reach out more
than one hundred feet, and in appearance they resemble huge
pythons crawling over the surface of the soil. The portion
of the root which rises above the surface occasionally reaches

Asiam

rubber trees

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Jb5. flEO COTTON THEE.

MO. AS«AM nuBSEn tmcL,

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357. ENTRANCE TO PERADENIYA GARDENS.

358. THE LODGE: PERADENIYA GARDENS.

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359. GROUP OF PALMS: PERADENIYA GARDENS.

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360. TALIPOT PALM.

361. TALIPOT PALM, SEVEN YEARS OLD.

363. THE SAME TALIPOT, FOURTEEN YEARS OLD.

363. THE SAME TALIPOT, TWENTY-ONE YEARS OLD.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

259

to such a height that a tall man can hide upright behind it;
it is not cylindrical, but so flattened that it almost resembles
a wall. When these noble trees are wounded, tears trickle
down their stems, and harden into the india-rubber of com-
merce known as Gutta-rambong.

We now pass* into the stately enclosure where the botanic
splendour in which Ceylon is so richly clothed from shore to
shore reaches its supreme display. On either side of the en-
trance (Plate 357) is a tall African palm (Elaeis guineensis)^
the seeds of which yield the palm oil of commerce. The pillars
of the gates are apparelled with a graceful creeper from Brazil
[Bignonia unguis), which flowers in April.

Within the gates we obtain our view (Plate 358), which is
presented in all the blazing radiance of the tropical sun. The
picturesque little lodge, the removal or rebuilding of which, as
is proposed, will cause some regret to those of us to whom it
has been familiar for very many years, contains the viskors*
book, in which we enter our names as we pass. Immediately
opposite the gates we are arrested in amazement at the sight
of a magnificent group of palms. An example of each kind
indigenous to the island, together with many noble specimens
of foreign lands, appears in the stately assemblage, wreathed
in flowering creepers and surrounded with sprays of elegant
ferns (see plate 359), which exhibits the road leading to the
right round the oval, and plate 374, which shows the road to
the left). To the right is the young Talipot palm with its
gigantic fan-shaped leaves, the size of w-hich may be estimated
from our plate by comparison with the man standing beneath
one. With regard to the growth of this particular tree it may
be interesting to observe that in the year 1893, when I took
the photograph (Plate 361), this specimen, which is in the
gardens, was said to be seven years old. I returned to the
same tree in 1900 and obtained the photograph reproduced
by plate 362, and again this year, 1907, I obtained that given in
plate 363. Our illustrations, therefore, if I was rightly in-
formed in the first instance, represent this palm in its seventh,
fourteenth and twenty-first year. It will be observed that in its
youth it devotes itself to producing only huge fan-shaped leaves ;
later a trunk begins to form, which grows straight as a mast
to a height of about one hundred feet. The grand white stem
is encircled with closely set ring-marks, showing where it has
borne and shed its leaves from year to year. The semi-
circular fans often have a radius of fifteen feet, giving a surface
of about three hundred and fifty square feet. The uses to
which these leaves are put are computed by the natives at
eight hundred and one, the chief being* raincloak and sunshade.
Three or four of these leaves form an admirable tent, and are

Main Line

Peradeniya
Gardens

The entrance

Magnifictnt
group of
palms

The Talipot
palm

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26o THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line often employed as such. The literary purpose to which they
^arde'ns^"' ^^^e for thousands of years been applied is perhaps the most
interesting. For this they are cut into strips, and afterwards
boiled and dried, when, they become what the natives term ola
or paper. On these strips of ola the history of the people and
their religious systems have been handed down to us. I have
seen manuscripts of this material more than a thousand years
old, and yet in perfect condition, with the characters so clear
and distinct that it is difficult to realise their vast age.

When the Talipot attains full maturity, it grows somewhat
smaller leaves, and develops a gigantic bud some four feet in
height. In due course this bursts with a report, and unfolds
a lovely white blossom which expands into a majestic pyramid
of cream-coloured flowers, which rise to a height of twenty
feet above the leafy crown. The fruit which succeeds this
magnificent bloom consists of innumerable nuts or seeds. Their
appearance indicates that the noble tree is nearing its end. It
now begins to droop, its leaves wither, and within a year it
falls dead. In our little picture (Plate 364) will be seen a
Talipot palm in flower. Robert Knox's quaint description of
the Talipot is worth quoting. He says : —

** It is as big and tall as a ship's mast, and very straight,
bearing only leaves which arc of great use and benefit to this
people, one single leaf being so broad and large that it will
cover some fifteen or twenty men, and keep them dry when
it rains. The leaf being dried is very strong and limber, and
most wonderfully made for men's convenience to carry along
with them, for though this leaf be thus broad when it is open,
yet it will fold close like a lady's fan, and then it is no bigger
than a man's arm. It is wonderfully light; they cut them
into pieces and carry them in their hands. The whole leaf-
spread is round almost like a circle, but being cut in pieces for
use are near like unto a triangle ; they lay them upon their
heads as they travel, with the peaked end foremost, which is
convenient to make their way through the boughs and thickets
(see plate 365). When tKe sun is vehement hot they use them
to shade themselves from the heat; soldiers all carry them, for
besides the benefit of keeping them dry in case it rain upon
the march these leaves make their tents to lie under in the
night. A marvellous mercy, which Almighty God hath be-
stowed upon this poor and naked people in this rainy country."

The Talipot Avenue, near the river on the left, and easily
found by reference to our plan, is one of the most striking
features we shall meet with, its shades of colour in green and
gold affording delight to the artistic eye.

All European ideas of a garden must be discarded if we
wish to realise the general features of Peradeniya. There is

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-Jl^. TALif»OT P^LM m FLOMIER.

3i«5. TALIPOT LiAV^B A^ UMBAELLAB.

300. THE TALIPOT AvENUt.

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367. THE LAKE: PERADENIYA GARDENS.

368. MALACCA BAMBOO.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

263

ao; entire absence of formal arrangement, but the beautiful
undulation of the land produces a grand effect — a garden and
park connbined, under conditions the most favourable for both.
'* Here _Nature asserts herself almost uncontrolled; she gives
us grandeur of form, wealth of foliage, exuberance of growth,
and splendour of colour — unfading beauties, but of a quite
different kind from those of the sweet summer flower-gardens
or the well-kept stoves and greenhouses of England/* Of
course the primary object of the garden is scientific instruction,
but the picturesque must have been kept well in view in plant-
ing the groups of trees and arranging the various families of
plants.

If "we turn to the left along Lake Road we shall notice
many lofty and ornamental trees; amongst them the Amherstia
nohUis, from Burma, while many are completely shrouded
in flowering creepers which trail in graceful forms from great
heights (Plate 372). The Thunbergia, with its lovely bell-
shaped blossoms, creeps in masses over the fine old tree
trunks which it clothes in the same bountiful manner. Near
this spot are to be seen gamboge trees and some curious
African trees with long pendulous fruits. The Brazil Nut tree
{Bertholetia excelsa) is also in evidence here. Continuing in
the same direction we soon arrive at the amateur photo-
grapher's paradise, the most photographed spot in the garden.
Here is a charming pool, and round about it a multitude of
singularly beautiful foliage subjects that can be combined with
its glistening waters; some are seen to best advantage in the
early morning, when the reflection of the bamboo and palms
upon the banks is so perfect that, save for the narrow strips
of leaf otl the surface of the water, the view presented in the
pool is as exact in all detail as the real one. Obviously we
cannot here introduce all these exquisite pictures; but Nos.
367, 368, 373 and 390 will serve as examples. In Nos. 367
the entrance of the Talipot Avenue (Plate 366) is to be seen
in the distance, and this will serve to guide us. But first we
must remark the giant clump of Malacca bamboo, in diameter
about nine inches, and reaching to a height of one hundred
feet. During the rains they may be almost seen to grow, so
rapidly do they increase their height and girth. I cannot say
what is the fullest extent of growth in a single day, but one
foot is somewhat near the minimum during the heavy- rainfall
in June and July.

Plants that will be seen inhabiting the water are the papyrus
of the Nile, giant water-lilies, with their blossoms nine or ten
inches in diameter, and the pith-tree, from whose wood are
made the familiar sun hats of the tropics.

We now pass through the Talipot Avenue. On the river

Perademya
GaptUns

Lake Road

Giant
bamboo

Water
plants

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264

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Mala Line side are the various kinds of rubber trees, including some

Grtr^*^^"* ^^^^ ^ dozen or more species. There are also gutta-percha
trees, now very rare. On the left of the avenue the ground
is occupied by an interesting collection of herbs, labelled and
arranged in due order according to their families. As we
proceed there are on our right some kola-nut trees {Cola
acuminata) from West Africa. The kola nut is used to some
small extent in Ceylon as a substitute for tea and coffee, and
is also introduced into aerated beverages. It is a tiseful
stimulant and masticatory, and especially useful to those who
suffer from indigestion. A small hollow in this part of the
gardens is also devoted to cocoa or chocolate plants (Theo-
broma cacao) y from the seeds of which the cocoa of commerce
is obtained. This plant is extensively cultivated in the Kandyan
country, and will not fail to attract the notice of the visitor.

Thepapaw As we approach the corner at the extreme south of the

gardens, represented in our illustration (Plate 369), the
noticeable features are varieties of succulent plants, the grace-
ful papaw (Carica papaya) laden with its enormous fruits
suspended beneath a crown of beautifully shaped lea.v,^. The
papaw (Plate 391) is frequently spoken of as the poor man's
fruit from the fact of its fertility, its many useful properties
and its general distribution, for it is seen in every poor man's
garden. In appearance it resembles a green melon and has
an orange-yellow flesh of sweet and pleasant flavour. Papain,
from which it derives its digestive properties, is said to be
superior to the animal product known as pepsin. The stem
of the tree has a pretty pattern of diamond shape and fre-
quently grows to a height of fifteen to twenty feet. Many
young palms of exceedingly beautiful foliage will also be

Screw pines admired here, within the loop formed by the drive. Aloes,
agaves and screw pines (Pandatius) abound. The screw pine
(Plate 369), with its scarlet-orange fruits, tempting only to
monkeys, its glossy sword-like leaves, its forked cylindrical
stem so beautifully chased, and its strange stilt-like roots,
presents a fantastic appearance. In our illustration (Plate 369)
may be seen a portion of the old satinwood bridge over the
Mahaweliganga, which, as we have observed, almost encircles
the whole garden.

We retrace our way through the Talipot Avenue^- and pass
the pond where the beautiful road and river view presented
in plate 370 is the next to claim our admiration. The high
banks of the river are in many parts clothed with climbing
shrubs between the enormous thickets of bamboo, which wave
their plumes over river and path. Can it be that these huge
clumps of eighty or a hundred cylindrical stems risiPT to such
a lofty height are really nothing more than bunche*- rass?

Talipot
A venue

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369. THE SCREW PINE.

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371. BAMBOO CLUMP: WESTERN DRIVE.

372. CREEPERS.

373. THE LAKE, EMBOWERED WITH BAMBOO.

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by Google

■1

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{^^^^^■M^ttEtl

374. GROUP OF PALMS.

37S. LIANA OROVE.

^•w.-<'*.;v

vj^ '"f-

376. A DOUBLE COCOANUT IN 1892.

377. THE SAME PALM IN 1807.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

269

Monununt
Road

The double

They grow closely crowded together from a common root, and Main Line
their stems are knotted like all grasses, of which they are the Pfradeniya

^ , f - . ^ ' "^ Gardens

most wonderful species.

Having now explored the south-west corner we return to
the oval group of palms near the entrance and entering the
main central drive illustrated by plates 378 and 392, we find
ourselves at once in a grove of exquisite beauty, its charming
features being due to the careful planting of the shrubs and
trees, which form a bank of ornamental and flowering plants
rising gradually from the edge to the tall trees w'hich constitute
the background and overhanging canopy. The first turn on
the left is Monument Road, where we shall find the famous
kauri pine of New Zealand, the curious candle tree with its
pendulous fruits which resemble so many candles hanging by
their wicks from the branches; and the most interesting double
cocoanut palm {Lodoicea sechellarum). ** This extraordinary
palm, the fruit of which, found floating on the waves of the cocoanut
Indian Ocean, or washed up on the shores of Ceylon and the
Maldives, was known for centuries before the tree itself, grows
in one or two small islands only of the Seychelles group, where
it is now protected. The growth is extremely slow, a single
leaf being annually sent up. As this palm frequently attains a
height of one hundred feet, it must live to a vast age. The
nut takes ten years to ripen, and the seed, which is the largest
known, a year or longer to germinate '* (Trimen). I first
secured a photograph of this specimen in 1892, when, it was
already forty y^ars old and had not begun to form its stem (see
plate 376). In 1907 I took the photograph reproduced in
plate 377, which will give an exact idea of the fifteen years'
growth. The slower growth would appear to characterise its
extreme youth, as after taking forty years to begin exhibiting
a stem it has grown since that time at the rate of about seven
inches a year. Unfortunately this specimen is a male, and
Therefore bears no fruit ; but several young plants of the same
species are placed so as to form an avenue which may
interest future generations. It should certainly be a grand
spectacle for posterity in about five hundred years when the
trees reach maturity. It is to be hoped that the public of the
year 2400 will be acquainted with the Peradeniya records of
our time and feel grateful to the present director and curator
as in flying machines they inspect the noble fruit with which
they are provided through the kindly foresight of their
ancestors.

The Great Lawn will be noticed from the Monument Road,
along the edge of which are fine trees, too numerous to mention ^^^'**
here in detail.

We return to the Main Central Drive, cross over it, and

The Great

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Peradetiiya
Gardens

The Fernery

Main Line stroll down the Liana Drive, where we shall see the Ceylon
satinwood tree {Chloroxylon swietema)^ which we illustrate,
and an abundance of lianas hanging in festoons. These climb-
ing palms, one of which may be seen like a couple of threads
on the right side of our picture (No. 375), provide the
cane used in furniture-making and matting. They grow to
enormous lengths, sometimes hundreds of feet.

Our next step is to make for a scene which to many is the
most fascinating and longest remembered of all in the gardens
— the Fernery. This, as our map will show, is to the right a
little further along the Main Central Drive, and is provided
with a network of paths about which the visitor will wander
in a maze of delight. Beneath the shade of lofty trees rivulets
flow between banks carpeted with ferns of infinite variety, some
so minute as to be hardly distinguishable from delicate moss,
others robust and tree-like, and some even bearing fine tufts
of feathery leaves as large as stately palms. Beautiful parasites
cover the trunks of the protecting trees. It is always a
veritable fairy scene ; but sometimes, when hundreds of beauti-
ful butterflies are flitting amidst all the delicate and graceful
tracery that climbs the luxuriant trees under whose shady
canopies it flourishes, the scene is entrancing. Plate 379 does
all that a photograph can do, but fails utterly to convey any-
thing approaching the reality of this botanical paradise.

Near the Fernery is the Flower Garden (Plates 380 and
381). At the south end will be found a circular tank con-
taining many interesting aquatic plants, including the plants
from which Panama' hats are made (Carludovica palmata),
water poppies, the sacred lotus, Egyptian papyrus, the water
hyacinth and others. Near the tank are two fine rubber trees
of the same species as the grove near the entrance (Ficus
elastica). If we pass beneath the archway formed by the
peculiar snake-like climber {Bauhinia anguina), which we shall
not fail to notice near the tank, the path will lead us to a shady
walk amidst all manner of spice trees, especially nutmegs,
cinnamon, allspice and cloves. The nutmeg, which is very
beautifully formed, with scarlet netted mace surrounding the
seed, is well worth a passing examination. In this locality a
rockery of ferns and plants that seek shady places will be
noticed, and, most rare of all, a glass-roofed conservatory !
The almost entire absence of the glass house is, however, one
of the charms of the garden. Only imagine what Kew would
"be if the contents of all its great houses could be placed in the
open and multiplied by scores. Even then the magnificence of
Peradeniya with its Mahaweliganga would give many points
to Kew with its Thames and its soap works walled off for their
very ugliness. The special function of this glass house at

The Flower
Garden

Nutmegs

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378, THE MAIN CENTRAL DRtVE.

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380. THE FLOWER GARDEN.

381. THE FLOWER GARDEN.

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382. CONSERVATORY.

383. BRIDOe VIEW.

PALMYRA AVENUE.

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275

Peradeniya is to protect desert plants from the moisture which
is the efficient cause of the exuberant fertility outside.

In the flower garden there are shade houses for orchids
and other shade-loving plants. That in the middle is known
as the Octagon Conservatory. We give a view of one of the
entrances to this and a portion of the interior in plate 382.
General views of the flower garden are presented in plates 380
and 381. Near the Orchid House there is in the open garden
a grand specimen of the giant orchid (Grammatophyllum specio-
sum). This is the largest orchid in the world, flowering to a
height of seven feet above its crown of foliage. The giant
creeper {Monster a deliciosa) (Plate 386) will be seen upon the
trunk of a tree near the giant orchid. To the north-east of
the flower garden, as may be easily seen in our map, is the
Palmyra Avenue (Borassus flahelliformis). When our photo-
graph (Plate 384) was obtained in 1907, these trees were
eighteen years old. Like the Talipot which we described on
page 259, the Palmyra has a straight stem which reaches the
height of seventy to eighty feet, and similarly it has broad
fan-like leaves. Its wood is hard, and its fruit supplies much
of the food of the poorer inhabitants of Jaffna, where it
chiefly grows. The sugar of the Palmyra, called by the
natives jaggery, is its most important product. This is ob-
tained by bruising the embryo flowers. The spathes are first
bound with thongs to prevent expansion and cause the sap to
exude, and then earthenware chatties are suspended to collect
the juice which, in response to frequent bruisings, continues
to flow for some four or fi.ve months. Once in three years the
fruit is allowed to form, but only lest the tree should die from
the continued artificial extraction of its juices. The liquor needs
only to be boiled down to the consistency of syrup, when, upon
cooling, it becomes jaggery without any further preparation.

When the fruit is allowed to ripen it forms in beautiful
clusters on each flower stem, of which there are seven or eight
on a tree. The fruit contains seeds embedded in pulp, and
from these food is extracted in various forms. One method
is to plant the seeds and take the germs in their first stage of
growth; these, after being dried in the sun and dressed, form
a luscious vegetable. The germs can also be reduced to flour,
W'hich is considered a great delicacy. The shells of the seeds
make splendid fuel, engendering a great heat. The wood,
being very hard and durable, is excellent material for roofing.
The leaves are in very great request for thatch, fencing, mats,
baskets, fans, umbrellas, and many other purposes. In earlier
times they were almost universally used for manuscript books
and legal documents.

Beyond the Palmyra Avenue is the Rose Garden, which

Main Une

Peradeniya
Gardens

The Orchid
House

Palmyra
A venue

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Peradeniya
Gardens

Main Line should not be missed ; and to the right of the avenue is a
stretch of land devoted to tropical vegetables, including gourds,
yams, sweet potatoes, tapioca, arrowroot, pineapples and many
others. Camphor trees and cassia trees arc also cultivated
here. The Bat Drive, near which we shall notice the useful
little pavilion erected to the memory of Dr. Thwaites, director
from 1849 to 1880, borders the Arboretum, which is entered
through the fine arch of bamboos shown in plate 388. Here

Flying foxa may generally be seen hundreds of so-called flying foxes hang-
ing heads downward like, legs of mutton from the topmost
branches of lofty trees. They are somewhat difficult to photo-
graph owing to their predilection for branches that are
about a hundred feet from the ground. Plate 385 was obtained
with a telephoto lens. These curious bird-beasts (Pteropus
edwardsii) are fruit eaters, and particularly fond of the seeds
of the banyan tree (Ficus Indica). By day they sleep suspended
as seen in our picture, and at night unhook their claws, and
spreading their heavy wings, they fly around the trees in large
numbers, making no little noise in their foraging exercises. It
is quite easy on a moonlit night to bring them down with a
gun; but if not killed outright they are by no means gentle
creatures to deal with, and the help of a hunting-knife is not
to be despised, in view of the fact that they fight violently with
their huge daws and sharp teeth. The size of their bodies is
about as large as a rabbit, their wings sometimes measuring
as much as four feet from tip to tip. Professor Haeckel has
observed that they are very fond of palm wine, or toddy, upon
which they frequently get intoxicated by drinking from the
vessels that are placed to catch the flowing sap.

The avenue of royal palms [Oreodoxa regia) vifeible through
the bamboo arch of plate 388 has been magnificent in its day,
but is now fast decaying. It is upwards of fifty years old, and
must soon give way to the cabbage palms with which it has
been interplanted.

A. drive around the gardens by the river side is esp>ecially
pleasant and affords many lovely views. If we start at the
south-east and look back where the river bends in the direction
of Kandy, we get our view (Plate 389). Before the introduc-
tion of the smaller clump of bamboo, which now hides the
opposite banks of the river at a very pretty bend, this was one
of the most charming vistas to be obtained from the garden.
It is to be hoped that the ofi'ending clump may ere long be
removed. On the same side of the gardens, but farther north,
is the river view represented in plate 387. At the north end
of the garden there is a portion of ground allotted to nature
herself, where in the jungle self-sown plants compete for the
mastery in earth and air. Across the river at this point is the

Royal palms

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38S. FLYINO FOXES ASLEEP.

OIANT CREEPER.

387. RIVER VIEW: EASTERN DRIVE.

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388. AN ARCH OF BAMBOO.

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389. THE HANTANNE VIEW.

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38a ARCH OF BAMBOO, NEAR THE LAKE.

^^p

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301. THE PAPAW.

392. MAIN CENTRAL DRIVE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

281

Peradeniya
Gardens

Circular
Road

experiment station, where econonvic products are tested in order Main Line
to discover their commercial value under scientific treatment.

On the west side there are also very pretty peeps along the
river through a framework of foliage, notably the bridge view
(Plate 383) and those given in plates 370 and 371.

There is a circular road in the middle of the gardens, in
the vicinity of which many beautiful trees may be seen that
have been planted there by royal visitors ; amongst them a
sacred bo-tree {Ficus religiosa) planted by King Edward during
his visit as Prince of Wales in 1875 ; a flamboyante {Poinciana
regia) by the Princess Henry of Prussia in 1899; near the
Thwaites Memorial a na-tree or Ceylon ironwood [Mesua
ferrea) by the Czar of Russia in 1891 ; a Brownea grandiceps
by the King of Greece in 1891 ; a Saraca Indica by the ill-fated
Crown Prince Rudolph of Austria in 1893; and Amhersfia
nobilis by the Prince Henry of Prussia in 1898; and near the
Laboratory on the opposite side a cannon-ball tree (Couroupita
guiafiensis), planted by the Prince of Wales in 1901.

The Museum situated near the Great Circle commands The Museum
beautiful views and is full of objects of great interest. Here
will be found specimens of the many valuable timbers of Ceylon,
many of which are now unfortunately scarce, such as the beauti-
ful calamander (Diospyros qucBsita), ebony of Ceylon (Diospyrus
ehenum), which is superior in value to all other kinds, and
satinwood (Chloroxylon swietenia)^ noted for its prettily
flowered appearance. Entomology is represented, and the Entomology
specimens include the greatest wonders of the insect world,
many of them so closely allied to the vegetable kingdom that
only on close examination can the question be determined as
to whether we are looking at an object having a sentient being,
or a mere bundle of leaves or sticks — these are the leaf insects,
stick insects and leaf butterflies. Here too are the Museum,
the Herbarium and Library, the offices of the director, the
entomologist and the mycologist, while the laboratory for
scientific research is in the same vicinity.

Volumes might be written about these Royal Botanic
Gardens at Peradeniya; but it is beyond the scope of the
present work to give more than a general idea of them. They
contain the most lavish display of tropical flora that has ever
been brought together, and the practical benefit of such an
establishment, with its large staff of accomplished experts, will
be manifest to every visitor.

Kandy (74m. 36c.). — In Kandy and its neighbourhood the Kandy
gem of the earth sends forth her most exquisite rays. The Formation
formation of the town itself may be described as a basin in the '^Z'''^'''^'^"
hills, the bottom being occupied in one part by native quarters,
T

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 283

temples and pansalas, and the rest by a picturesque lake, Kan^
around which many miles of carriage drives, bridle roads and Formation
walkSy at various elevations line the hillsides, which are studded
with pretty bungalows. A reference to our illustrations will
give some idea of the way in which this beautiful little town
clusters around the lake, amid all the wealth of foliage
peculiar both to mountain* and plain, which here meet and
intermingle.

Kandy is incomparably beautiful; but let it be at once scttitry
understod that in thus describing it we are not limiting the
epithet to the town and its immediate surroundings. It is
rather the Kandyan country as . a whole that is thus distin-
guished, and this must be seen from the hill-tops which com-
mand the far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls
over rocky channels and through scenes of almost majestic
beauty ; from the Hunasgeria peak ; from Mattanapatana ; from
Lady Horton's walk and other steep acclivities that encircle
the town itself. Travellers too frequently, either from want of
time or lack of energy, obtain but a faint idea of the varied
beauty of the Kandyan district. To encourage a fuller
exploration of this most interesting part of Ceylon, a con-
siderable portion of this work will now be devoted to its
description.

Our interest in the Kandy of to-day will be strengthened by Kawiyan
some knowledge of the previous records of the Kandyans and '"^''^'^^
their little city. It has no very ancient history. It was for
the first time adopted as the capital in the year 1592 by Wimala
Dharma, the one hundred and sixty-fourth monarch who had
reigned in Ceylon since the year B.C. 543, the earliest period
of which any events are recorded. For more than a thousand
years Anuradhapura was the capital, and the residence of the
kings, till in a.d. 729 this once mighty city, the stupendous
ruins of which we shall describe later, was forsaken, and hence-
forth for some five hundred years Polonnaruwa became the
capital. With the downfall of Polonnaruwa, consequent upon
Malabar invasion, the prestige of the Sinhalese monarchy .
dwindled. From the year 1235 various places were selected for
the capital, including. Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, Gampola,
Cotta and Sitawaka, until the final adoption of Kandy, which
continued to be a place of royal residence until the reign of
the last monarch, Sri Wikrama Rajah Sinha, 1798- 181 5.

From the time of the first contact with Europeans, which
we have seen took place in the early part of the sixteenth
century, Kandy was for three hundred years the chosen ground
where the Sinhalese made their stand against the aggressions
of European intruders. The Portuguese first carried on a
desultory struggle with the Kandyans for one hundred and

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

Struggles
with the
Portuguese

Kandy an
patriotism

fifty years, during which time they repeatedly gained posses-
sion of, and in great part destroyed, the city, but never
succeeded in holding it to their own advantage, or for any
considerable length of time. How entirely ignorant of Westeri^
civilisation the Sinhalese were at this time, is evident from
the following quaint extract from a native chronicle referring-
to the arrival of a Portuguese ship. It narrates : ** In the
month of April of the year 1522 a. ship from Portugal arrived
at Colombo, and information was brought to the King. They
are a very white and beautiful people, who wear hats, and
boots of iron, and never stop in one place; '* and having seen
them eating bread and drinking wine, and not knowing what
it was, they added, '* They eat a sort of white stone and drink
bloody give a gold coin for a fish, or a lime, and have a kind
of instrument that produces thunder and lightning, and a ball
.put into it would fly many miles, and then break a castle of
fharble or iron.'*

Kandy was held through many desperate encqunters in
which victory inclined to either combatant accompanied by the
practice of every species of atrocity on both sides. The enter-
prise, always difficult and dangerous for the besiegers, both on
account of the deadly malaria of the jungle and the narrow and
treacherous defiles, which were the only means of approach,
demonstrates the great courage of the Portuguese as pioneers
in colonisation. It must, however, be admitted that, judging
by their own accounts of their battles, they were barbarously
cruel, and equalled, if they did not excel, the Kandyans in
the ir^vention of fiendish methods of dealing with their
captives.

A characteristic of the Kandyans had always "been their
patriotism, a virtue wanting amongst the people of the low-
lands, whose policy in dealing with the invader was too often
tame and pusillanimous. Organised resistance by the whole
of the native peoples was thus out of the question, and the
brav€ mountaineers were left without support in their struggle
with the invader. Their methods of warfare were at first
primitive ; their weapons consisted merely of lances j bows and
arrows, and sword-blades attached to the tusks of elephants.
They accomplished more by craft and stratagem than by open
combat, but they were not slow to understand the methods of
their aggressors. At the beginning of the struggle guns and
gunpowder were unknown to them ; they possessed, however,
amongst their citizens workers in metal more skilled than the
Portuguese, who soon produced excellent fowling pieces, which
were described by their foes as **the fairest barrels for pieces
tliat may be seen in any place, and which shine as bright as
silver.** Long before the war ended they were as well equipped

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394. KANDYAN SCENERY; THE RESERVOIR.

395. THE RESERVOIR WALK, KANDY.Digitized by LjOOQ IC

396. KANDY LAKE.

307. KANDY LAKE,

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

287

in respect of weapons as their European adversaries. The Kandy
manufacture of guns, thus begun by the Kandyans under the
impulse of necessity, has continued in the villages around
Kandy to the present day.

Throughout the whole period during which the Portuguese
were in possession of the coast, the Kandyans never swerving
in their patriotism and their courage, and aided by the great
advantag^e of their position in the mountains, • the passes of
which "were naturally fortified on all sides, were a constant
menace to their security, harassing them by forays into the
plains, and taxing to the utmost their powers of defence.
We have seen (pages 21 and 22) that with the arrival of the The Dutch
Dutch a policy which involved less fighting was adopted,, but ^^^
the attitude of proud defiance on the part of the mountaineers
was not one whit changed in consequence. Although they had
invited the Dutch to assist them in getting rid of the Portu-
guese, their new allies were soon treated with contempt, and
treaties and compacts were entered into only to be violated
with every mark of contempt and indignity. From the very
beginning the Dutch, recognising the futility of trying to gain
and hold possession of the Kandyan kingdom, adopted a policy
of subservience — peace with dishonour — and endured all manner
of insults for the sake of such commercial advantages as could
be realised in exchange for ignoble adulation and cringing
servility. Whether they could have conquered and held Kandy,
if they had cared to go to the expense, is doubtful; but their
rapacity and meanness effectually prevented them from making
any adequate and sustained efforts.

It remained for the British to accomplish the task; nor was d*^'^'''i?(
it by any means an easy one for them. For twenty years after
their first arrival in the year 1795, Kandy remained unsubdued.
After three centuries of guerilla warfare with the Portuguese
and the Dutch, and their bitter experiences of the policy of
brigandage which these nations pursued, it was not likely that
they would welcome any further European incursion. It was
now the irony of their fate to live in constant dread of being
conquered by the nation that had in store for them the blessings
of good government and future prosperity.

We can only realise their dread of the European at this
period when we consider the price at which they preserved
their independence. Their monarchy with its ancient prestige
had been degraded from its estate. The king was a foreigner
and a despot of the most cruel type, to resist whose will was
to court immediate destruction. The highest officer of the
state was the Adigar, who alone possessed the royal ear. His
power of administering justice, or injustice, was practically
unlimited. He could issue what mandates he pleased, and

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

Tyranny of
tfte kings

Pilima

prevent any complaints from reaching the throne. He thus had
every opportunity for intrigue, of which. he fully availed him-
self,, disquieting the. monarchy with jealousy and apprehension,
and striking terror into the populace. The inferior officers of
state were mere tools of oppriesSion, extracting every atom of
wealth out of the lower orders. Extortion was recognised as
a system of governtnent. The lowest ranks were those who
most felt the burden of supplying the royal treasury, for they
had no class from which they could in turn extort. The proper
administration of justice was unknown. Such* trials as were
held before the officers of the state were summary, and bar-
barous punishments the immediate result. Imprisonment was
never inflicted, but heavy fines and torture for minor offences ;
and in case of capital sentences, some barbarous cruelty in
addition was always introduced. This was the price of their
independence, and it is reasonable to suppose that they would
have been more ready to exchange it for the justice, humanity
and happiness which they now enjoy had they had any exper-
ience other than that of the methods of the Dutch, which were
not of a kind to inspire them with hope of any amelioration in
their lot at the hands of a European master.

The British first tried to gain control of the Kandyan king-
dom-by diplomatic means; but in these they were unfortunate;
and the attractive mountain stronghold was destined to give
much trouble to its new assailants, and to be the scene of
blpbdshedi treachery and barbarity, too awful for description,
before it was won.

At the time when the British ousted the Dutch from the
maritime provinces the Kandyan throne was occupied by the
old Tamil King Rajadhi Raja Sinha, whose Adigar was Pilima
Talawa. Pilima, who' boasted descent from the ancient line
of pure Sinhalese kings, conceived the idea of restoring the
native dynasty in his own person. To this end he formed a
crafty and somewhat intricate project which involved first of
all the deposition of the old king, the placing Upon the throne
Sri Wikrama, another Tamil, who should in turn be deposed
with the aid of the British on the ground of his being a Mala-
bar. His intention wias to encourage the young Sri Wikrama
to commit such acts of atrocity as should make him hateful
to his own subjects, and at the same time provoke war with
the English. By these means he hoped to raise himself to the
supreme power. He succeeded in deposing the old king and
placing Sri Wikrama on the throne. His designs were then
disclosed to the British Governor, Mr. North, who saw in them
a possible opportunity of establishing a military protectorate
at Kandy. He therefore tempted Pilima with the following
proposition : The King, while retaining his nominal rank, was

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399. ROAD SCENE, KANDY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

291

to be virtually reduced to a nonentity, and induced to retire to Kamiy
a distant province. These arrangements were to be supported Ttf^I^^^
by the presence of a British force in Kandy. The introduction obtain a °
of the troops was to be managed by nieans of a pretended ^jj^|"
embassy to the King, Pilima undertaking to get his consent
to a large escort, and under the guise of this escort it was
intended to march into Kandy with a force of two thousand
five hundred men.

Accordingly, in March, 1800, General MacDowall marched
with this formidable force to the borders of the Kandyan king-
dom, where they were stopped by orders from the King, who
had become alarmed at their numbers. The British troops
were not allowed to proceed further, but the General was
ordered to proceed with some native troops, but by the way of
passes so impracticable that guns and baggage had to be left Failure of
behind, and he therefore arrived with a very small portion of ^^^**^^^M^
his intended strength. In the end the embassy returned to
Colombo completely unsuccessful, and the elaborate scheme for
obtaining a bloodless footing in the Kandyan kingdom resulted
in utter failure.

This is not a thrilling story or one worthy of British tradi-
tions ; but there is something to be said in defence of an
attempt to obtain possession of Kandy by such means: The
internal condition of the kingdom itself made it clear that the
success of the enterprise could entail no great injustice upon
the King or his people, and events that followed proved that
it would have averted great misfortunes, much bloodshed, and
many fearful atrocities, in addition to bringing relief to the
oppressed inhabitants fifteen years earlier.

Pilima, foiled in his designs to gain power by means of
intrigues with the British, now changed his tactics with a view
to provoke a war with Kandy, in the hope that events might
enable him to realise the objects of his lofty ambition. In the
course of two years, after many fruitless attempts, he managed
to bring about a casus belli which the Governor could not
ignore. A British force of three thousand men, under General
MacDowall, marched to Kandy and invested it. The King
fled and the treacherous Pilima at once offered his services to
the British in placing on the throne a member of the royal
family who should act in accordance with their wishes. Muttu
Samy, who had been a fugitive under British protection in
Colombo, was chosen for this purpose, and thus placed upon
the throne. He was first required to agree to a permanent
British garrison in Kandy, thus giving effect to Mr. North's
original plan. But the wily Pilima approached the General
with proposals which resulted in a convention on the following
terms: the fugitive wa^ to be 'delivered "uprto the English,

Kandy

invested

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

The

treachery
of Pilima

Massacre
of Davie's
troops

Muttu Samy was to be sent to Jaffna, and the Adigar was to
assume the supreme power in Kandy. Two unfortunate cir-
cumstances in the carrying out of these arrangements afforded
Pilima his opportunity of acting the traitor. In the first place
the number of troops left for a permanent garrison was too
small, and in the second, their commander was an officer quite
unsuited for the responsibility that devolved upon him.

General MacDowall marched back to Colombo, leaving
behind him only three hundred British and seven hundred
Malays under Major Davie, for the defence of British interests.
The Adigar, now seeing but one step between himself and the
throne, did not hesitate for a monlent to betray the British who
had so incautiously trusted him. He formed the bold design
of seizing the person of the Governor, of exterminating the
British garrison in Kandy, and destroying the rival kings. By^
accident the Governor, who happened to. be on the border,
escaped; but the rest of Pilima *s scheme was ruthlessly carried
out.

On June 24th, 1803, the little garrison that MacDowall had
left was assailed by thousands of Kandyans, who literally
swarmed over the hills that overhung the palace. The
treacherous Pilima had taken care that the numbers of armed
natives should be absolutely overwhelming, and so having been
caught in the trap there was nothing for Major Davie but to
die or capitulate. After the loss of a considerable number of
men Davie therefore agreed to terms, whereby he was to be
allowed to march to Trincomale. The road thither necessitated
the crossing of the Mahaweliganga about three miles from
Kandy, at a place called Paranagantota, which literally means
** old village ferry.'* -Hither they were permitted to proceed
and to take with them their royal protdge, Muttu Samy. But
to their great consternation the river was considerably swollen
by recent rains and the passage was rendered for the moment*
ihipracticable. Major Davie therefore halted his men upon a
knoll overlooking the river quite close to the ferry, where they
bivouacked round a bo tree. This bo tree was flourishing two'
or three years ago; but when I photographed it' this year
(1907) the trunk had completely withered and the branches were
bare ; but fortunately there was amongst the apparently dead
wood a new shoot which it is to be hoped will in time grow into
a fine successor to the original and serve as a memorial of the
terrible fate which here befel the British troops. For two days
the river remained impassable; a circumstance of which the
wily Pilima was doubtless aware. He now came and obtained
the -surrender of the prince Muttu Samy, who was instantly
slain. He then offered to assist the troops to cross the river and
to provide them with guides to conduct them to Trincomale on

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400. DAVIE'S TREE.

1 fr. ,^&

^1 •■'JS

401. KANDYAN CHIEFS.

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402. SCENE OF THE MASSACRE OF DAVIE S TROOPa

40a PARANAGANTOTA. WHERE DAVlES TROOPS FAILED TO CROSS THE RIVER.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

condition that they gave up their arms. With this condition
it was unfortunately agreed to comply. No sooner had the
disarmament taken place than a most diabolical act of treachery
was enacted. Two by two the British soldiers were led into
a gully (Plate 402) out of sight of their comrades and
despatched by the swords, knives and clubs of the Kandyans.
One man only, Corporal Barnsley, lived to tell the tale. He
walked to the fatal spot which he saw strewed with the bodies
of his comrades; the merciless sword fell upon the back of
his neck and he was deprived of all sensation. Falling prone
forward amongst the bodies, he lay for some time unconscious
and then opened his eyes and saw natives stalking over the
slain and clubbing each head. In turn he received a blow and
again was reduced to insensibility. During his unconsciousness
he was stripped, and in this condition, when darkness came on,
he crept into the bushes and lay all night in a downpour of rain
with the muscles of his neck so severed that he had to support
his head with his hands. Nevertheless he swam the river, and
meeting with a certain amount of luck in obtaining food, and
avoiding death, he was at length enabled to reach Fort Mac-
Dowall, about eighteen miles east of Kandy, where he greeted
the British officer with the words, ** The troops in Kandy are
all dished, your honour.** Upon receiving a full account,
Captain Madge spiked his gun, and succeeded in reaching
Trincomale with his men and Corporal Barnsley after the most
terrible privations, poor Barnsley having to support his head
with his hands during the whole march of about ten days.
Major Davie was taken in captivity to Kandy, where he is
believed to have died of disease some years later; he never
had an opportunity of explaining his surrender to a compatriot.
Our illustrations connected with this incident portray the
river where the ferry was situated (Plate 403) ; the bo tree where
the bivouac took place (Plate 400),. and the gully where the
massacre is said to have been perpetrated (Plate 402). The
place of the ferry is at the village of Mawilmada, near the
boundary between it and the adjoining village of Watapuluwa,
not ** Waterpologa ** as some authors have written. After this
crime the ferry, possibly owing to superstitious reasons con-
nected with the massacre, was removed a short distance up the
river towards Katugastota, and there it remained until the
sixties on the old Matale road, till superseded by the construc-
tion of the new road and the Katugastota bridge in i860. The
land on which the tree stands, still known to the villagers as
Davie *s tree, is now private property. It is easily reached by
proceeding for two miles from Kandy on the Katugastota road,
and then for a mile by the Alutgantota road, which branches off
near the second mile post.

Kandy

Miraculous
escape of
Corporal
Barnsley

Scene of the
massacre

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296

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

Davie's tree

Captain
Johnston's
heroic march

Eh/lapola

Since my visit in February, 1907, the scene of the massacre
has been marked with a memorial stone bearing the following
inscription : ** 1803. June 26. Davie's tree stood on the
summit of this hill. This stone was placed here by the
Municipal Council of Kandy, 26th June, 1907, close to the
scene of the massacre of his troops, which the tree survived
exactly 100 years.'*

It was unfortunate that prompt and adequate retribution
could not be visited upon the authors of the massacre. Our
troops were decimated by death and disease, and owing to the
war with France no reinforcements were available. It was not
until a year later that a plan was formed to make a simul-
taneous advance from six different stations on the coast upon
the mountain capital. The commanders were selected, and
marching orders given ; but at the last moment they were
countermanded. By some extraordinary blunder. Captain
Johnston, who had been ordered to march from Batticaloa, did
not receive the order cancelling his instructions, and in con-
sequence he advanced with three hundred men. The march and
retreat of this little army were heroic. After a month's march-
ing and continuous fighting, during which they destroyed the
royal palace at Kundesalle near Kandy, they made their way to
Trincomale with a loss of forty-eight men.

No further attempt was made to take Kandy for eleven
years, during which period the tyrant king and his perfidious
Adigar Pilima continued their course of cruelty and wickedness,
till at length Pilima was detected in an attempt to assassinate
the king, and was immediately executed. His nephew Eh^la-
pola was appointed to succeed him. The name of Eh^lapola is
associated with the last and most awful tragedy of all the
savage cruelties of the Kandyan kings. He inherited the
character of his uncle, and like him was soon occupied in
treasonable schemes. These were detected, and he fled to
Colombo for safety. King Wickrama, incensed at his escape,
adopted the savage course of inflicting punishment upon Ehda-
pola by putting to death his wife and children, after subjecting
them to hideous torture of such a kind that the details are too
shocking for mention. The constantly recurring acts of cruelty
at length sickened the Kandyans of their rulers and led the
mass of the people to wish for a change that would rescue them
from a government of irresponsible cruelty.

The deliverance, however, came from without. An atrocity
committed upon some British subjects, who visited Kandyan
territory for purposes of trade, proved too much for the
patience of the Government in Colombo. It was ascertained
that these traders had been seized by orders of the king, de-
prived of their ears, noses, and hands, and driven out of the

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MAP OF THE TOWN OF KANDY.

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405. THE ESPLANADE FROM MALABAR STREET, KANDY.

I^^^IBsn ?NB^

.-^HM^I

406. THE QUEEN'S HOTEU KANDY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

299

territory, their severed members hanging round their necks,
and no time was lost in preparing for war. Within a few weeks
Kandy-was in possession of the British. The king was cap-
tured at Medamahamuwara under circumstances which will be
described later when we take an excursion into the district
where the events occurred. He was deposed and deported to
the fortress of Vellore in India, and at a convention of the
chiefs held in the great Audience Hall of the palace (Plate 445)
his dominions were transferred to the British Crown. The
chiefs -were to retain their former authority, and the religion
of Buddhism was to be maintained. These favourable terms
were soon abused, and within three years almost the whole of
the interior country was again in arms. The insurrection was
difficult to suppress and cost the lives of a thousand British and
ten times as many natives. The chiefs having broken the terms
of the convention which preserved to them their ancient powers,
thenceforward they were required to administer their districts
under the immediate supervision of British civilians.

Good government speedily brought about contentment and
the rapid advancement of civilisation. And recrudescence of the
wars, which had lasted for three hundred years, was guarded
against by the construction of good military roads. It seems
to us somewhat strange that no attempt was ever made by the
Portuguese or Dutch during their three centuries of warfare
with the Kandyans to compass their end by means of roads.
Roman history had afforded many notable examples of this
mode of conquest from which they might have profited. The
new roads of the British soon broke down the exclusive habits
of the inland population, and the march of progress has been
continued without interruption to this day.

Freedom and the benefits that follow in its train have now
become familiar to the Kandyan mind, and peace, prosperity
and contentment are now enjoyed by a people for centuries
accustomed to serfdom, poverty and the excesses of unscru-
pulous tyrants.

Before we proceed to describe Kandy as it will be found by
the traveller to-day it may be useful to remark that during
the months of October to April it is always advisable for in-
tending visitors to book hotel rooms in advance. It frequently
happens that several large steamships arrive at Colombo
together, and a rush for Kandy is made by a large number of
their passengers, who fill the hotels to their utmost capacity.
It is safer therefore to telegraph for accommodation, unless it
has been ascertained in Colombo that this course is unneces-
sary. The local hostelries comprise the Queen's Hotel, which
is a large and well-equipped institution, in a most convenient
situation ; the Florence Hotel, quiet, comfortable and home-

Kandy

Deliverance

from

despotism

Insurrection

Effect 0/
military
roads

Peace and
contentment

Hotel accom-
modation in
Kamly

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300

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

Population
atui area

Tht
landscape

The climate

Local
attractions

like in picturesque grounds upon the lake road; and many
smaller hotels and boarding houses.

The population of Kandy is about 25,000, of whom only
about one hundred are English. The form of local govern-
ment is a municipal council of which the Government Agent is
the chairman, and the area embraced by the municipality is
about eleven square miles. The streets as well as the hotels
and the principal bungalows are lighted by electricity.

The exploration of the interesting features of the town may
be easily and pleasantly done on foot, with the occasional use
of a jinrickshaw. This useful little man carriage is obtain-
able as easily as in Colombo, and the rickshaw cooly is under
similar municipal regulations. He can be engaged by the
hour for a trifling sum. The jinrickshaw is especially useful
if taken out on little expeditions and left by the roadside
during the exploration of places that are accessible only
b\' pathways off the beaten track. Horse carriages can be
obtained at the hotels.

As we ascend the steep acclivities the beauty of the land-
scape approaches the sublime ; we gaze across far-reaching
valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over channels strewn
with massive rocks, and through scenes of almost majestic
beauty; we see the Hunasgeria peak towering above vast
stretches of vivid greenery where cacao groves are interspersed
with masses of lofty palms, with here and there patches of the
most lovely colour of all vegetation — the emerald hue of half-
ripe paddy ; the grandeur of the Mdtalt^ hills and the whole sur-
rounding country which, when viewed from the heights that
embrace the town, is a panorama of surpassing loveliness.

Not the least charming feature of Kandy is the surprising
mildness of the climate. Its height above the sea is scarcely
two thousand feet, and its distance from the equator is but
six degrees ; yet a blanket at night is welcome and comfortable ;
whereas in Colombo it is never required. The days are hot
and somewhat glaring, owing to the lack of that red tint in
the roads which is so comforting in Colombo ; but the refresh-
ing early mornings and evenings admit of a goodly amount of
exercise.

The cosmopolitan character of the visitors will be at once
apparent; for not a week passes without the arrival of scores
of fresh tourists from every part of the world. They come here
to see the home of the later Sinhalese kings; the famous and
beautiful mountain-stronghold that was the last part of Ceylon
to fall into the hands of the foreigner ; the Daladd Mdligdwa,
or Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha ; the quaint manners
and customs of a people whose ancient dynasty endured for
twenty-four centuries; the interesting temples and religious

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408-415. LAKE VIEWS, KANDY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

303

ceremonies of the Buddhist cult; the perfection of tropical K«ndy
botany and agriculture; and the most beautiful walks and
drives in the tropics. We depend chiefly on our illustrations to
give a correct idea of the scenery, but we must refer to some
of the more notable features. The roads are bordered with
fine trees and shrubs, ancj as we wind about the hillsides the
frequent openings in the luxuriant foliage form exquisite frame-
work through which wc see the distant landscape (see plate
416). Tfie avenues are as varied as they are beautiful. Here The avenues
(Plate 388) we are passing beneath an arch of bamboos which
throw their feathery fronds from either side until they meet;
there (Plate 399) the grateful shade is bestowed by the huge
broad leaves of the plantains that grow in profusion every-
where. These plants reach the height of twenty feet. The
fruit (generally known in Europe as the banana) is so familiar
all over the world that it needs no description. We may, how-
ever, remark that each plant after about a year's growth will
probably bear about three hundred fruits weighing above sixty
pounds ; and it will then die exhausted by its bounteous effort.

Fruit and flowers of forms quite strange to the visitor grow Contrast
in profusion everywhere, impressing one with the idea of luxury 'lUul ^^
and plenty. We feel, as we roam along the paths, how happy
and contented must be the people who live amidst such sur-
roundings ; and we reflect upon the contrast which it all bears
to the barbarian and poverty-stricken Kandy under the tyrant
kings, when the food of the people chiefly consisted of bark
and roots, and their homes were squalid beyond conception.
Such a transformation as this influx of wealth and comfort
under British rule must be a convincing proof to the intelligent
natives that their citadel at length fell to worthy conquerors,
and a matter of proud satisfaction to every Briton who reflects
on the result of the enterprise.

The visitor who arrives at Kandy in the evening will prob- The lake
ably be attracted to an after-dinner stroll round the lake, by ,
the lower road, upon the banks (Plates 408, 415 and 436).
The first impre.ssions gained amidst the buzz of myriads .of
winged insects, and the weird effect of the overhanging hill-
sides, sparkling with the fairy lights of fireflies, will not be
easily forgotten. At a thousand points through the darkening
foliage these wonderful little spirit-lights appear and vanish.
Moonlight effects of purely tropical scenery are to be seen to
perfection here, where the bold fronds of the palms, the
traveller's tree, and the plantains stand in black relief at
various elevations in the soft white light.

But the early riser will delight more in the effects of dawn
from the higher walks and drives. Two roads encircle the lake
— the lower at the water's edge and the upper at a high eleva-

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304

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Lady

Morton's

Walk

Hantanne

Kandy tion ofi the hillsidcs. We choose the latter, and no sooner

have we ascended to a moderate height, than a series of
beautiful landscapes is presented to us through openings in
the shrubs and trees which border the road. As we wind about
the varied curves, the ever-changing aspect of the town and
surrounding country presents a constant difference of outline
and colour which is most enchanting.

By far the most interesting walk or drive in Kandy is that
known as Lady Horton'tJ, from which a distant view of the
road just described can be obtained. Here we take our stand
for a few moments and gaze across the lake at the tea estates
upon the opposing slopes. There we notice a rugged cliff
rising to the height of 4,119 feet. This is the highest point of
the tea-growing district known as Hantanne.

Although tea is the chief product of the Hantanne district,
it is by no means the only one. Many of these acres are planted
with cardamoms, pepper, cinchona, cacao, nutmegs, and there
is even some coffee remaining as a relic of the old days when
that product was king.

The uncultivated hill on the left of Hantanne is a point of
vantage from which magnificent stretches of country may be
seen. It is commonly known as ** Mutton Button,** a corrup-
tion of its correct name '* Mattanapatana. ** The ascent of this
hiU^ which is about 3,200 feet high, is a somewhat arduous
task, and occupies from two to three hours ; but our exertions
are well rewarded by the splendid views w'hich it commands.
/)«»i6am In winding course we continue to ascend until, at the north-

eastern point, the valley of Dumbara bursts into view. In
spite of the clearings made for cultivation, it is still beautifully
wooded. The lovely jungle is, however, fast giving way to
the less beautiful but more remunerative tea and cocoa planta-
tions. This district is about 12,000 acres in extent, about
7,000 of which are now under cultivation. The elevation,
which is from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea-level, is found to be
most suitable for the cultivation of a large variety of products,
especially when, as is the case with Dumbara, the rainfall is
moderate and well distributed, being about sixty inches in the
year. We see, therefore, in Dumbara, fields of cacao or
chocolate trees with large rubber trees planted amongst them
for shade. Some estates consist of fields of pepper, arecanuts,
cocoanuts,' cacao and coffee, while here and there are fields of
tea bushes interspersed with cocoanuts. Vanilla and carda-
^ moms are also represented. The district is, however, chiefly
' noted for its cacao or chocolate, of which it has upwards of
five thousand acres.

Beyond the Dumbara valley we notice in the far distance
the outline of a noble mountain which is known as the Knuckles.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

307

The top of this mountain is shaped by four distinct peaks Kandy
resembling the knuckles of the hand, from which it derives it^
name. It is an important district under cultivation for tea,
cinchona, cardamoms, and other products.

We have mentioned Lady Horton's walk before describing
the town itself, because the traveller is recommended to take
the earliest opportunity of seeing the panorama of the Kan-
dyan country spread out before him from these heights.. The
entrance to the walk will be found in King Street near the
gates of the King's Pavilion. The length of the walk is about
three miles.

One of the chief objects of interest to all travellers, and rhe Temple
generally the first visited is the Daladd Mdligdwa or Temple ^/^*^ ^''«'''*
of the Tooth.

The Temple and the Pattirippuwa, which is the name of
the octagonal building on the right of the main entrance, are
enclosed by a very ornamental stone wall and a moat. The
Temple itself is concealed by the other buildings within the
enclosure. Upon entering we pass through a small quadrangle
and turn to the right up a flight of stone steps to the TemjDle.
The most noticeable features are grotesque carvings, highly-
coloured frescoes, representing torments in store for various
classes of sinners, and images of Buddha. A most ear-splitting
noise is kept up by tom-tom beating and the playing of various
native instruments. On either side are flower-sellers, and the
atmosphere is heavy with the perfume of lovely white blossoms.
Each worshipper in the Temple brings an offering of some
fragrant flower. The beautiful Plumiera, with its pure creamy
petals and yellow heart, is the most popular sacrificial blossom,
and this, together with jasmine and oleander, is everywhere
strewn by the devout Sinhalese. If our visit happens to be
made on a day of high festival when the adored relic is to be
exposed, the scene will be enlivened by the presence of a large
number of yellow-robed priests, gaily-caparisoned elephants,
which are kept by the chiefs for ceremonial purposes, and the
chiefs themselves, who appear in their rich white and gold
dresses and jewel-bedight hats. They are naturally handsome
men, and when attired in full court dress, they look very im-
posing. To begin with, they contrive to wind about their ^.
persons some hundred and fifty yards of fine silk or muslin,
embroidered in gold. This drapery, tapered finely down to the
ankles, ends in neat little frills. Round the waist is fastened
a velvet gold-embroidered belt. Over a shirt, fastened with
magnificeat jewelled studs, they wear a jacket with very full
sleeves, fastened tight above the elbow, and made of brocaded
silks of brightest hue. Their hats are of very curious shape,
even more lavishly embroidered than the jackets, and studded

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3o8

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandy

The Temple
of the Tooth

The Oriental
Library

with jewels. Crowds of reverent worshippers of both sexes,
appareled in costumes of brilliant colours and great variety,
assemble in the spacious precincts.

We notice a narrow doorway with two pair's of elephants'
tusks on either side, and some very curious metal work on
the door itself; this leads to a steep narrow staircase, at the
end of which is a door most elaborately inlaid with silver and
ivory ; this is the entrance to the little sanctuary, which con-
tains the jealously-guarded sacred tooth, the palladium of
Ceylon, and an object of unbounded reverence to four hundred
millions of people. Within this chamber, in dim religious
light, is a solid silver table, behind which the huge silver-gilt
Dagoba, or bell-shaped shrine, w-ith six inner shrines protecting
the tooth, is usually visible through thick metal bars. But on
great occasions the nest of priceless shrines is brought forw^ard,
and the tooth is displayed, upheld by a twist of golden wire,
from the heart of the large golden lotus blossom. The shrines
are all of pure gold, ornamented wath magnificent rubies,
pearls, emeralds, and catseyes, and the last two are quite
covered with rubies. Besides these treasures, there are here
many priceless offerings and gifts of kings, including an image
of Buddha carved out of one great emerald, about three inches
long by two deep.

We are glad soon to retreat from this small chamber, so
hot, and filled with almost overpowering perfume of the
Plumiera blossoms, and to visit the Oriental Library in the
Octagon. In the balcony we pause awhile and look around
upon the motley crowd below. The chief priest with great
courtesy now shows us a very rare and valuable collection of
manuscripts of great antiquity. Most of them are in P^li and
Sanskrit characters, not written but pricked with a stylus on
narrow strips of palm leaf about three inches wide and sixteen
or twenty inches long. These strips form the leaves of the
books, and are strung together between two boards which form
the covers. Many of the covers are elaborately decorated with
embossed metal, and some are even set with jewels. Besides
the sacred and historical w-ritings, there are works on astro-
nomy, mathematics and other subjects.

Plates 422 and 429 illustrate the interior of this library,
and will give the reader some idea of the appearance of the
oriental books both upon the table and the shelves.

Quite close to the large folding doors there may be noticed
in our picture a trap door in the floor of the library ; the danger
of this is its only interest to us. It is perfectly safe when
closed ; but on the occasion of my last visit it had been left
open by accident, with the result that upon entering the room
I made a not very graceful descent into the lower chamber.

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421. THE ENTRANCE OF THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH.

422. ,HE ORIENTAL LIBRARY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 311

I cannot describe the sensation of my rapid disappearance, but K«ii4y
that I was ever capable of any further sensation after the event
is equally inexplicable. I therefore give this word of caution
should a similar oversight occur again. There is one festival
connected with the Temple of the Tooth which the visitor will
not see, unless his visit takes place in August — the Perahera. J>grahira
It is a night procession of prehistoric origin and forms one of
the most weird sights to be seen in this or any other country.
Attached to the temple is a stud of some forty fine elephants
which, when not in use for ceremonial purposes, are kept on
the estates of the native chiefs in the district. These elephants
are brought into the grounds and a night procession of the
follo^ving description takes place. The route, a large quad-
rangle in front of the Temple, is illuminated by torches and
small lanterns placed in niches purposely constructed for them
in the ornamental walls. The finest elephant is taken into the
Temple by the main entrance, visible in our picture on page
306, and caparisoned with gorgeous trappings quite covering
his head and body, the face-covering being richly embroidered
in gold, silver, and jewels, and surmounted with an image of
Buddha; the tusks being encased in splendid sheaths. The
shrine of the tooth is removed and placed within the howdah,
the whole being surmounted by a huge canopy supported by
rods which are held on either side by natives. Two lesser
elephants are now brought up and decorated in a somewhat
similar manner, and are then placed to escort the great ele-
phant, one on each side. Several headmen, holding baskets of
flowers, now mount the elephants, and their attendants sit
behind, holding gold and silver umbrellas. The other elephants
follow in the wake, all mounted in a similar way by headmen
and their attendants. Between each section are rows of other
headmen in gorgeous dresses, and groups of masked devil-
dancers in the most barbaric costumes, dancing frantically,
exhibiting every possible contortion, and producing the most
hideous noise by the beating of tom-toms, the blowing of conch-
shells, the clanging of brass cymbals, the blowing of shrill
pipes and other instruments devised to produce the most per-
fect devil-music that can be imagined. Nothing more eerie
can be pictured than this procession, about a mile long, con-
sisting of thousands of dark brown figures, gaily dressed,
intermingling with hideous groups of devil-dancers, all fran-
tically gesticulating around the forty elephants by the dim red
light of a thousand torches. The August Perahera, which lasts
several days, has been regularly held for upwards of two
thousand years, and although Western ideas are gradually
creeping into the Kandyan mind it would be rash at present
to predict its discontinuance. Upon the occasions of royal

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312

THE BOOK OF CEVLON

Kandy

The

A udience

Hall

The •
Kachcheri

Art Museum

visits special processions after the manner of the Peraheras arc
arranged by the chiefs in honour of the events. One of the
most brilliant was provided when the Prince and Princess of
Wales visited Kandy in 1901. About two thousand people and
sixty-three elephants took part in this great spectacle. Another
was presented this year (1907) upon the visit of T.R.H. the
Duke of Connaught and the Princess Patricia.

Before making any excursions in Kandy and its neighbour-
hood the visitor should glance through the description of the
architectural features to be met with, given on pages 325 et seq.
In these pages are to be found photographs of the Dalada
Maligdwa already described, the Audience Hall of the Kandyan
kings, and all the interesting ivihdres,patisalas and dewales.
Equipped with some knowledge of these edifices, which are in
such close association with the whole lives and thoughts of
the Kandyans, the stranger will find his interest in both places
and people quickened in no small degree.

The Audience Hall (Plate 445) is in grounds adjoining
those of the Temple of the Tooth. It is an historic building,
and should be visited alike for its association with the
ceremonial of the Kandyan kings and for the sake of its
architecture. In the terrible times that preceded the British
occupation it is to be feared that it was too often a court
of tyranny and injustice ; but it now serves as the forum
presided over by the District Judge of Kandy.

Behind the Audience Hall is the Kandy Kachcheri, or
offices of the Government Agent of the province, an extensive
and handsome building, but, alas ! having no feature of any
kind that harmonises with its surroundings. In an English
manufacturing town it would not be out of place ; but in
Kandy it is a deplorable incongruity.

In the same locality is an old building, said to have been
a portion of the palace of the queens in the days of the
monarchy, but now used as a museum for treasures of Kan-
dyan art and craftsmanship; it is, moreover, the home of the
Kandyan Art Association, a society formed to encourage the
preservation of the best traditions of Sinhalese art which,
previous to the introduction of Western influence, possessed
a character that was at once meritorious and distinctive. The
native cunning of the low-country craftsman may be said to
have diminished to a greater extent than that of the Kandyan,
who, owing to his being so completely shut out' from the rest
of the world down to the nineteenth century, was limited to
the resources of his own immediate locality and to the crafts-
manship that had descended from father to son for many
generations. The result of this isolation is st^en in some
special peculiarity that characterises all the ancient handiwork

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427. THE PRINCE OF WALCS FOUNTAIN.

42a REMAINS OF THE QUEEN'S PALACE.

429. ANCIENT OLAS IN THE ORIENTAL LiDRARV.

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430. CRAFTSMEN OF THE KANDYAN ART ASSOCIATION.

— m0^~ ^

«>-^#55*i

E_l.

j^Hk

431. KANDYAN SILVERSMITHS

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

315

0/ the Art
A ssociation

that may be met with, whether in architecture, painting, Kandy
textile work, implements of ordinary use, or articles of per-
sonal adornment. Skill developed among social conditions of
service tenure. Under this tenure the craftsman held lands Native arts
that sufficed to provide him with food, and prosecuted his ^fuicra/ts
art according to the laws ^of his caste, for its own sake and
not for money. His personal needs were so modest and few
that his thoughts and his attention were never distracted by
anxiety for the morrow. The main principles of his art came
down as the legacy of a long line of ancestors who had been
engaged in its mysteries, and he applied his skill both
hereditary and applied to the needs and the fancies of his
patrons, and, like the masters of the middle ages, found in
every detail of his work such pleasure and delight that even
the meanest objects were transfigured into things of beauty.
The traveller may see the truth of this in every antique sur-
vival of earlier times. But the Kandyan craftsman is even
now an artist, and although he is no longer uninfluenced by
the foreigner, the instinct to follow the traditional lines is the
strongest element in him.

Part of the old Queen's Palace adjoining the Museum is Workshops
given up to workshops where the traveller may see articles
of silver and brass-work in process of manufacture, may even
select a design for any article he fancies and see it in its
stages of fabrication if he has time to pay an occasional visit.
Our illustrations (Plates 430 and 431) depict some of the
Kandyan art workers following their calling in the premises
of the museum. Their modest and simple methods will sur-
prise and interest us. Seated upon the ground and surrounded
by the needful appliances, the roughly constructed blow-pipe,
the earthenware chattie containing a small charcoal fire and
the box of self-made tools, they fashion the most delicate work.
Many a treasure representing the inherited artistic tempera-
ment of the Kandyan craftsman has been secured by the
traveller from this institution in recent years, and we recom-
mend the collector to avail himself of the present opportunity,
as no man can say how long the features which distinguish
the inherited genius of the Kandyan artist may hold their own
against the mechanical influences that have already corrupted
Western handicrafts.

We shall see later, in our description of paddy cultivation,
how this inheritance of artistic temperament influences the
commonest actions in their lives ; how even the processes of
'agriculture are associated with ceremonies that not merely
soften the tedium of labour, but introduce an element of joy
that is the outcome of their natural aptitude for prosecuting
every task in the true artistic spirit.

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3i6

THE BOOK OF CKYLON

Kandy

The old
palace

The King's
Pavilion

In the vicinity of the buildings referred to above is the
old palace of the Kandyan kings, or at any rate a considerable
portion of it, now occupied by the Government Agent of the
Central Province as a private residence ; it is therefore not
open to the inspection of the public, and for this reason several
views of the interior and the charming verandahs that extend
around it are given here (Plates 433, 484, 492 and 493). Fur-
ther reference to it will be made on later pages.

Opposite the Old Palace is a w^alled enclosure of temple
buildings containing the Nata Dewdle (Plate 465), a dagaba,
a bo tree provided with a bodhi-malu^va or platform with an
altar for offerings, and several halls for educational purposes.
The principal entrance to this sacred enclosure provides the
artist with an excellent subject. Opposite this is the Maha or
Vishnu Dewjile (Plate 467). This temple is on the borders
of the King's Pavilion grounds, w-hich are entered from King
Street. The King's Pavilion is the most charming of the
residences of the Governor of the Colony, and there is nothing
prettier in Kandy than the garden in w-hich it stands. When
his Excellency is not in residence the public are admitted to
the grounds. The visitor w-ill admire the noble trees and
ornamental plants that abound here. The house was built by
Sir Edward Barnes when Governor of Ceylon in 1834. It
was described by Sir Emerson Tenncnt as " one of the most
agreeable edifices in India " (which if it had been in India
would no doubt have been true), *' not less for the beauty of
its architecture than for its judicious adaptation to the climate.
The walls and columns are covered with chunam, prepared
from calcined shells, which in whiteness and" polish rivals the
purity of rparble. The high ground immediately behind is
included in the demesne, and so successfully have the
elegancies of landscape gardening been combined with the
wildness of nature, that during my last residence in Kandy
a leopard from the forest above came down nightly to drink
at the fountain in the parterre."

The house and grounds are still the same. Noble trees
and ornamental plants abound everywhere and wild nature is
still found compatible with effective artificial arrangement.
Fine specimens of the Traveller's Tree are very noticeable
here. This tree is so calked from the useful property possessed
by the leaves of sending forth a copious supply of water,
when pierced at the part where they burst forth from the stem.
Nor are the trees and shrubs the only features of interest in
this delightful garden ; the creatures that appear everywhere
lend their aid to charm the naturalist : geckoes, bloodsuckers,
chameleons, lovely bright green lizards, about a foot in length,
which, if interfered with, turn quite yellow in body, while

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432. THE KINGS PAVILION, KANDY.

433 VERANDAH OF THE OLD PALACE KANDY.

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434^ THE BUNO PARADE, KANDY.

435. STATUF. OF 8lR HENRY WARD.

340. SCENE ON THE VICTORIA DRIVE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

319

Church of
St. Pitul

the head becomes bright red; glorious large butterflies, with Kandy
most lustrous wings ; blue, green, and scarlet dragon-flies of
immense size ; and gay birds, giving life and colour to the
scene. Millepedes are amongst the creatures constantly
crawling about; they are about a foot long, as thick as one's
thumb, of a very glossy jet black colour, and possessed of a
large number of bright yellow legs. The strangest insects,
too, are seen amongst the shrubs, so near akin to plant life
that it is impossible to believe them to be alive. until they are
seen to move.

Opposite the entrance to the King's Pavilion is the English
Church of St. Paul, which was built about the middle of the
nineteenth century. There are some features of interest in
the interior, the wood-work particularly testifying to the skill
of the Sinhalese in carving. At the west end there is a monu-
ment to officers of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment who served in
the Crimean War, and in the south transept there is a window
erected by the Ceylon Mounted Infantry in memory of their
comrades who fell in South Africa.

Next to St. Paul's Church, upon turning the corner which
leads to the Queen's Hotel, is the Police Court, which may
afford some interest to the visitor who has never before wit-
nessed the proceedings in an Eastern court of justice. Near
the entrance will be noticed a fountain erected by the Planters
of Ceylon to commemorate the visit of his Majesty King
Edward in 1875.

The Victoria Esplanade, with its charming and useful lawn
that stretches from the Queen's Hotel to the Temple, is the
rendezvous of the public on all occasions of festivity. It is
adorned on one side by a picturesque wall after the character
of that which surrounds the Temple, and on the other by the
handsome wall of the grounds known as the Temple En-
closure. On the lawn will be noticed a monument to the
members of the Ceylon Planters' Rifle Corps who fell in the
South African War; and another commemorating Sir Henry
Ward, one of Ceylon's ablest Governors. These extracts from
his speeches are recorded on the pedestal : —

" In all civilized countries it is with material improvements that all

other improvement begins."
** My conscience tells me that to the best of my judgment and abilities

I have tried to do my duty by you, and it is my hope that you

will think of me hereafter as a man whose whole heart was in his

work."

For a short walk or drive few places provide a more
interesting and beautiful road than that which encircles the
Kandy Lake. The formation of this exceedingly ornamental

Victoria
Esplanade

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reservotr

320 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

, Kandy piece of water is attributed to Wickrama Rajasinha, the last

f of the Kandyan kings. Some of its greatest aesthetic attrac-

tions over and above its lovely situation are however due to
j the interest taken in the improvements of Kandy by many of

f the Governors and Government Agents who have lived there

from time to time. Thus Sir William Gregory added the
ornamental wall upon the bund. The upper road affords the
best views, amongst which is that depicted by our photo-
Wace Park graph (Plate 393), taken from Wace Park, a small ledge on
the hill-side tastefully laid out, at the suggestion of the late
Mr. Wace, when he was resident as Government Agent. No
visitor should fail to take a stroll to this spot, which is but
about five minutes* walk from the Queen's Hotel; and those
who want specially pretty subjects for the camera should
obtain a pass from the Secretary of the Municipal Council, or
from Dr. Anderson Smith, the medical adviser to the Council,
who lives at the Queen *s Hotel, to be admitted to the grounds
which enclose the Reservoir of the Municipal Water Supply.
L^tnmir This reservoir is reached by the road which passes at the

back of Wace Park, the distance being half a mile. The
lovely shaded walks around the reservoir, with constant pretty
openings disclosing vistas across the glistening waters, pre-
sent an opportunity to the enthusiastic amateur photographer
that should not be missed. Some proof of this may be
gathered from plates 416 to 419.
Gregory The Grcijorv road, which is the upper of the two lake

roads, provides many beautitul views, and is most convenient
for a short walk or drive in the early morning when the
mountain air is keen and invigorating. Indeed, the first stroll
along this road is one of very slow progress, and as a rule
the fresh comer will not go far the first time, but return
again and again at his leisure.

Two minutes' walk in a direction opposite the entrance
of the Queen's Hotel will bring us to the picturesque corner
of the lake illustrated by plate 438, near which there are fre-
quently quaint and amusing scenes to be witnessed. Here
the overflow of water from the lake rolls down a fall of stone
steps, on which the native delights to disport himself with the
water dashing over his dusky form. In the pool below the
more energetic indulge in strange forms of water frolic, while
still further on the dhoby is busy in cleansing calico attire by
the effective method of beating it upon huge blocks of stone.
The visitor will also find amusement in the curious methods of
toilet being performed upon the banks beneath the shade of
the beautiful bamboos that embower the spot. Here, too, is
an excellent opportunity for the snapshotter ; for not only are
there water and bamboos, a combination always effective in

road

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437. WACE PARK.

438. A PICTURESQUE CORNER NEAR THE QUEENS HOTEL.

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!S.5«»Wfr^ V

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

323

a photograph, but we have also strange objects and novel Kandy
occupations in great variety, so conveniently situated that
visits may be repeated as often as may be necessary or
desired.

The streets of Kandy will interest the visitor only in so The streets
far as they afford a glimpse of native town life and occupation
in the bazaars ; this is, however, always amusing to the
visitor who is a stranger to Eastern customs. In Kandy it
is much pleasanter to visit the bazaars than in Colombo, owing
to the cooler atmosphere and the wider and cleaner streets ;
indeed one may walk through them in comfort. Trincomale
street and Colombo street should at any rate be visited. Near
the bottom of King street may be seen the only remnant of
a Kandy an chief's walawwa or residence that has survived
from the time of the Kandyan kings (Plate 425).

Ward street is the chief thoroughfare of Kandy and pos-
sesses the European stores, banks, the Queen's Hotel, the
Kandy Club and the Victoria Commemoration buildings which
are occupied as the headquarters of the Planters* Association
of Ceylon. This edifice was erected by the Planters of Ceylon
as their memorial of the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
Turning to the left at the bottom of Ward street the road
becomes very picturesque (Plate 440), and on the way to the
railway station the market (Plate 439) is seen fronted by a
handsome garden of palms, the most prominent of which is
the Talipot (Plate 441). Upon nearing the railway station
(Plate 442) an extensive building will be noticed on the right,
amidst flowering shrubs and noble trees — the Post Office.
This part of Kandy is known as the vale of Bogambra, the
scene of many a tragedy in the time of the Kandyan monarchy,
including the tyrannous and ghastly execution of the Eht^lapola
family to which we have already referred.

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443. TRIPLE MONOLITHIC PILLAR AT GADALADENIYA.
{See p. 342.)

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 325

For the benefit of those who may be interested in Kandyan Kandyui
Architecture the text of the following description has been Architecture
kindly contributed by the Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis, M.A., C.C.S.,
Government Agent of the Central Province of Ceylon.

By Kandyan architecture in these pages is meant the archi-
tecture of the last two or three hundred years in Kandy and
its neighbourhood, as distinct from the architecture of the
older period of Ceylon history. This architecture, though not
elaborate or possessing many examples, has at the same time
a distinct character of its own, noticeable by even the casual
visitor. It is certain, however, that an appreciation of Kandyan
architecture cannot be predicated of the earlier British writers
on Ceylon. Dr. Davy, in his " Account of Ceylon '' published
in 182 1, remarks of ** the public buildings " in the interior of
the island that " few, if any, excite a lively interest in the
spectator,** and he describes the temples as strongly reminding
the observer *' of the Chinese style of building; indeed, the
temples of Boodhoo in general have a very Tartar aspect **

Major Forbes in his *' Eleven \ears in Ceylon,** published
in 1840, dismisses the subject still more curtly. He says of
" the buildings remaining horn the time of the native dynasty '*
that " there is nothing worthy of remark either in their archi-
tecture or decorations " (Vol. L, p. 299).

That the remnants of Kandyan architecture are so few may
be due to the fact mentioned by Major Forbes that ** the king
did not permit any person to have a house two storeys high,
nor to build one with windows, nor even to roof with tiks nor
whitewash mud walls, without obtaining the royal sanction.*'*
** The dwellings of the people in general . . . are in-
variably thatched ; only those of the highest rank being
permitted lo have tiled roofs.** Only the king's palace and
religious buildings were allowed to have doors with orna-
mental tops, or finials to the roofs, or to have flags hoisted
on them.t

But that Dr. Davy and Major Forbes have condemned
Kandyan architecture too hastily I hope to be able to show.

The architecture which it most resembles would appear to
be that of the temples of Mudbidri in Kanara or the Tuluva
country on the Malabar coast, and it is perhaps significant that
the religion of the people of this country is Jainism and that
** the religions of the Buddhists and the Jains were so similar
to one another both in their origin and their development and
doctrines, that their architecture must also at one time have

♦ Vol. I., p. 78. See also TenncDt, 4th Edit., Vol. II., p. 195.
t Davy, p. 256.

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326 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kudyan been nearly the same. A strong presumption that the archi-

Architectare tecture of the two sects was similar arises from the fact of

their sculptures being so nearly identical that it is not always

easy to distinguish what belongs to the one and what to the

other/'*

Fergusson remarks of the Jains that ** their architecture is
neither the Dravidian style of the south nor that of northern
India." He states further that ** this style of architecture
is not known to exist anywhere else in India proper, but
recurs with all its peculiarities in Nepal."

The chief of these peculiarities noted by Fergusson is that,
though carried out in stone, it seems to owe its form to
examples executed in wood. He adds that the pillars (of the
Mudbidri temples) ** look like logs of wood with the angles
partially chamfered off, so as to make them octagons, and the
sloping roofs of the verandahs are so evidently wooden that
they cannot be far removed from a wooden origin. In many
places, indeed, below the GhSts the temples are still wholly con-
structed in wood without any admixture of stone, and almost
all the features of the Mudbidri temples may be found in wood
at the present day. Long habits of using stone would have
sobered their forms." He thinks that the excess of carving to
be fou.nd on the pillars in the interior of the temples is an indica-
tion of their recent descent from a wooden ancestry. . .
** Nothing can exceed the richness or the variety with which
they are carved. No two pillars are alike and many are orna-
mc*nted to an extent that may seem almost fantastic."

Now these features of the architecture of the Mudbidri and
Nepal temples which most struck Fergusson, viz. the wooden
or stone pillars with the angles partially chamfered ofiF, and
the sloping roofs, are also strongly characteristic of the Kan-
dyan temples and other buildings. The Audience Hall of the
kingsf (Plates 444 and 445), which is now used as a court-
house, consists of a high-pitched roof supported by four rows
of wooden pillars arranged so as to form a nave with its aisles,
supported on a stone platform and without walls, the building
being open on all sides. The pillars are richly carved in
different patterns and they are in shape partly square and
partly octagonal. They support heavy beams and a king-post
roof. The wall plates are elaborately carved and have carved
terminals. The roof projects considerably over the pillars.

* " History of Indian and Eastern Architecture," by James Fergusson,
pp. 207-8.

t It was begun in 1784 by king Rajadi Raja Sinha, the last king but one
(a.d. 1 780-1798), but*it|Was not completed until after the British occupation.
The pillars were stilf being carved about 1820. They are made of haimiila
(Berrya Ammonilla), brought from Nalande, 30 miles distant.

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444. ROOFS OF THE AUDIENCE HALL AND TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH.

445. THE AUDIENCE HALL.

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by Google

446. THE KATARAGAMA DEWAuE, KANDY.

447. ANTE-ROOM OF EMBEKKE DE]^^^^^,^ GoOglC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 329

The slope of the roof over the aisles is at a less acute angle J^""/l^""
than that of the roof of the main part of the building. This
is found in most Kandyan buildings. The whole roof thus
assumes a more or less concave appearance (Plate 444J and to
the superficial observer exhibits a sort of curl which no doubt
helped to give rise to the impression formed of these buildings
by Dr. Davy that they resembled the Chinese style of building,
and led him to speak of their ** pagoda style.*'*

Dewendra Mulachariya was the builder of the Audience
Hall in Kandy. The chiefs who furnished timber complained
to the king that the Mulachariya (chief artificer) shortened and
then rejected the beams brought ; the king thereupon threatened
to cut off the fingers of the offender, who to avoid the disgrace
threw himself into the lake. He also took part in the con-
struction of the Octagon (H. IV. Codritigton).

The ante-room or hall for the tom-tom beaters t of the
dewdle at EmbekkeJ (Plate 447), a temple built, according to
tradition, in the time of King Wikrama Bahu HI., who reigned
at Gampola a.d. 1371-1378, is exactly similar in plan to the
Audience Hall. There are four rows of seven wooden pillars in
each row (Plates 447 and 451), with four additional pillars
at the entrance, and the usual drooping lotus capitals. There
is great variety in the patterns carved on the central squares
of these pillars — greater than on those of the Audience Hall,
but the ornamentation is not so elaborate. The ivalhalkada or
porch at the entrance to the enclosure of the temple has similar
pillars (Plate 450).

In these buildings are to be seen figures of the goddess
Laksmi, of horse and foot warriors armed with sword and
shield; of dancers and wrestlers; of mythical animals, lions
and birds with elephants* trunks, creatures half bird and half
human ; birds with two heads like the Russian or German
eagles; the sacred goose in various attitudes, sometimes with
a flower in its beak; of combinations of women and birds and
women and flowers, or of more mundane women suckling their
infants; of flowers of different kinds; also a curious but very
artistic pattern evolved out of a string in eight knots some-
thing like a design made from the shoulder knots of a British
officer (Plate 448).

* He says that he is not aware of the existence of this feature anywhere
else south of Nepal, loc. cit., p. 271. The slopes of the roof of the upper
storey of the sanctum of the Kataragam deivdU at Kandy, however, are actually
concave (Plate 446). It has been suggested that these roofs may be due
to Siamese influence.

t This may be said to correspond to the narthex or western porch of a
Christian church.

{ About nine and a half miles from Kandy— between Kandy and Gampola.
W

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330 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan Iq a mad&ma or rest-house for travellers (Plate 449) close

Architecture ^^ ^j^^. dcwdle we find the exact counterpart of these pillars
executed in hard granite with the same patterns that adorn
the wooden pillars of the temple buildings.

In the Temple of the Tooth* (Plate 452) we have similar
pillars also in stone, but here the carving is much less elaborate.
In fact here there is the minimum ol carving and its place is
taken by paintings on the square portions of the pillars (Plates
453 and 421).

In its simplest form the Kandyan post or pillar is a mere
rectangular column of stone or masonry, as at the Alut Wihdre
at Asgiriya (Plate 455) and at (iangardma. The cylindrical
brick pillar plastered over, either standing singly or coupled
and ending in a plain moulded capital, which is now so much
affected in the restoration of temples, is copied from modern
British building in Ceylon, and has no warrant in native
architecture.

The truth of the statement as to the resemblance of the
Kandyan temples to those of Mudbidri will be apparent to
anyone who compares the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy and
the Lankatilake Temple (Plates 459 and 460) in its neighbour-
hood with the pictures of the Jaina temples at Mudbidri given
on pp. 271-272 of Fergusson's book.f

It must, however, be remembered that the wooden pillars
of the Audicncx* Hall and other buildings in Kandy, though
characteristically Kandyan in the details of their carving, and
the stone pillars of the Temple of the Tooth are very similar
in shape to the stone pillars seen in Hindu temples in Southern
India and North Ceylon, which are probably traceable to a
wooden origin. It is true that they resemble the Mudbidri
pillars in having ** the angles partially chamfered off so as to
make them octagons " — or rather partly square and partly-
octagonal, but after all this is an elementary shape for a wooden
pillar to assume, and when it is carried out in stone the same
shape would naturally be followed. The capitals, too, of the
pillars, which usually consist of two blocks of wood or stone
placed crosswise with drooping lotus flowers carved on the
under sides, appear to be of a Hindu pattern.

In the Kandyan wooden pillars the square surfaces that are
left half way up, as well as those of the octagonal shafts, are
utilised for elaborate carved patterns of conventional floral and
other artistic designs. This has become so characteristic a
feature that these pillars are spoken of generally as ** Kandyan

♦ The Temple of the Tooth was built by King Narendra Sinba
(1706-1739).

t See especially his figures on pp. 150, 154, 172, 173.

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.^ --..

laMBi

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452. THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH

453 PAINTED STOhJE PILLARS AT THE TEMPLE^^cpRaT^H^ej^tJDOFfjftiC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 333

pillars," and they arc found not merely in temples, but in Kandyan
domestic buildings — wherever in fact the Kandyans had to ^•■cwt«c*"'"«
erect a pillar.

Mr. Bell describes these pillars thus : ** Wooden pillars
when carved all assume, with slight variations, a rectangular
form modified and softened by chamfering to eight-sided shafts
between base and capital, and breaking its continuity by
varied bands and square panels — the pillars virtually becoming
octagonal shafts with elongated rectangular base, capital and
central cube." He also notices that the stone pillars (in this
case at one of the temples in the Kegalle District, viz.
Ganegoda) carry out the original idea of wooden forms very
closely." Nearly all the carved wood pillars terminate in a
branched capital with helix and drooping lotus — the familiar
gones of the Audience Hall at Kandy.*

In the Kandyan temples then we have the same features
which are to be seen in those of Mudbidri and Nepal, the same
high pitched roofs of a concave appearance covering diminish-
ing storeys, their peaks crowned with a bronze finial, the same
verandahs with deep eaves, the same platforms with moulded
stone edges forming basements for the superstructure, and the
same wooden or stone pillars ** square like logs of wood with
the angles partially chamfered off," supporting the verandahs
or upper storeys.

The metal finials are more or less elaborate. Those on the
Temple of the Tooth are said to be made of gold ; they are
more probably gilded. Embekke Dewdle possesses a fine
bronze one (Plate 454) dating from the early part of the nine-
teenth century. There is a figure of the goddess Laksmi on
each of the four plates which attach it to the apex of the roof.

In less important buildings the finials are of earthenware,
sometimes mere pots.

Like the Kandyan temples the temples at Mudbidri are of
comparatively recent date. Fergusson says that ** three or
four hundred years seem to be about the limit of their age.
Some may go back as far as 1300, but it looks as if the king-
dom of the Zamorin was at the height of its prosperity about
the time it was first visited by the Portuguese, and that the
finest temples may belong to that age. "t

♦ "The pillars, rectangular at base, softened by foliage carving in low
relief, changing into simple octagon with raised bands and panelled cube at
centre, returning to the squared form." (Report on the Kegalle District by
Mr. H. C. P. Bell, CCS . Archaeological Survey of Ceylon, published by the
Ceylon Government as Sessional Paper No. XIX. of 1892. See the Plate
opposite p. 22. Pages 19-21 give an excellent description of Kandyan archi-
tecture as found in the Kegalle District.)

t Page 274. The Lankatilake and Gadaladeniya temples were built in
A.D. 1344.

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334 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

/[""hiTf" Small pavilions which may be described as miniature repro-

tions of the Audience Hall are characteristically Kandyan,
and serve such purposes as resting places for travellers
(Plate 449). They are square in shape, and the number of
pillars which support the roof is either four, eight, or sixteen
in number.

One of these buildings, at Embekke, has been referred to.
It stands on .a rock in the middle of a paddy field, and consists
of a roof supported by an inner rectangle of four, and an outer
one of twelve, monolithic pillars of the usual pattern. They
have not separate capitals, but each group of four pillars at
each corner is treated as forming a unit, and is surmounted by
four short beams laid cross-wise, with carved ends which take
the place of capitals. Over these beams are longer beams
which connect the four groups and support the roof. The roof
is not exactly square, but has a short ridge, each end of which
is crowned with a finial. There is a very similar maddma, half
way between Kandy and Matale, of square plan, but with
wooden instead of stone pilfars, which is said to have been
constructed of timber left over from the building of the Audience
Hall (Plate 456). Here also we have on the pillars the same
geometrical or floral patterns and figures of animals, the lion,
elephant, horse, and sacred goose — the latter in couples with
necks interlocked — a favourite Buddhist emblem. On some of
the pillars the equally sacred cobra is carved in a coil, resem-
bling a flower with its stalk.

The mythical animals here, however, are fewer than at
Embekke, ordinary animals predominating. There appears to
be no reason for doubting that the Embekke madAma dates
back to the time of Wikrama Bahu HI., Le. the latter part of
the fourteenth century, and its plan only differs from the other
in that it is not quite a square, while in the other, though not
more than one hundred years old, the shape of the pillars
and the style of carving are identical. This serves to show
what we would expect to find, that Kandyan architecture has
changed little in the course of centuries. At Welagama,
six miles from Rambukkan on the road to Galegedara a
pretty little pavilion of this kind known like the Octagon at
Kandy as a patirippuwa, is found perched on the top of a
rock which juts up above the temple premises (Plate 457). It
covers an outline of Buddha's foot cut in the rock and the
whole thing serves devotional purposes as a sort of diminutive
Adam's Peak. It is said to have been built some eighty years
ago, and is in bad repair.

The features of these pavilion-like buildings have been more
or less successfully reproduced in recent times in a court-house,
ambalams or resting places for travellers, a band-stand, a

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454. EMBEKKE DEWALE.

455, ASGIRIYA WIHXrE.

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NEAR TCUOCNIYA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 337

well roof, and in shelters for the accommodation of witnesses Kandyan

attending the courts. It was felt that no style was more
fitting for buildings in the Kandyan capital than this which had
come to be looked upon as ** the Kandyan style.'* An ambalam
built at Degaldoruwa by the chief man of the village in a
modern Kandyan style is a picturesque example, and the same
may be said of another, with stone pillars, near Teldeniya,
which was built by a Tamil in a style which might be called
either Hindu or Kandyan (Plate 458).

Mrs. Murray Ainsley in the ** Indian Antiquary '' for
January, 1887,* has carried the comparison of Nepal, Kullu
and Kashmir temples still further than Mr. Fergusson. She
sees in them a similarity to the old wooden church architecture
of Norway, and gives a picture of the wooden church at Bor-
gund (since unfortunately destroyed by fire) which was one of
the oldest in Norway, having been built in the eleventh century,
in illustration of this similarity.

I was myself struck on my first visit, with the resem-
blance of Lankatilake temple to a Norwegian church-. Perched
on a high rock, with its many gables, high-peaked roofs and
finials, its projecting eaves and its stone platform, the resem-
blance strikes one at once (Plates 459 and 460). The verandahs
of Borgund remind one of the Nepal, Mudbidri and Kandy
temples. ** The chief object of the builders of the church seems
to have been to exclude both sun and light — which one could
understand if they had been living in the tropics instead of, as
they were, inhabitants of a high latitude."

Mrs. Ainsley, I may add, accounts for this resemblance by
the common origin of the two peoples in the same corner of
Asia. The following is a description of the church. ** Starting
from the base of the exterior, a row of sloping eaves forms
the roof of a verandah which encircles the basement ; a second
protects the walls of the lower half of the church; and a third
forms the roof of the nave ; a fourth the roof of the belfry ; a
fifth and a sixth seem also to have been used for the sake
of giving symmetry to the whole. The quaint objects on the
gables of the third and fourth roofs are dragons' heads with
projecting tongues ; an ornament that forcibly recalls that on
oriental and Chinese buildings.*'

Applying this description to the Lankatilake temple we
should have to stop at the third or fourth roof : but the general
effect of the two buildings is much the same, and we have good
substitutes for the dragons in the monstrous heads with pro-
truding eyes which glare at us from above the lintels of the
doorways and in those mythical beasts compounded of croco-

• Vol. XVI., p. II.

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Architecture

33^ THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan dile, elephant, fish and lion, which sprawl down the balustrades,

Architecture ^f ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^p ^^^q arches of the doorway* (Plate i, frontis-
piece).

The situation of Borgund church, too, gives a similar im-
pression to that conveyed by the position of a Kandyan temple
on its plateau among wooded hills, enclosed within a low
wooden fence on a stone base (Plate 459). An elevated spot
on flatjjround with plenty of rock is usually selected as the site
for a Kandyan temple.

In its plan the Lankatilake temple bears an outward resem-
blance to a Christian church. It has an appearance of being
cruciform, the transepts and chancel forming side chapels which
are occupied by six deivdles. The main building which is the
unhdre forms "the nave. It is occupied by a large sedent painted
image of Buddha said to be of stone. The wall and ceiling
are also painted, the former with figures of Buddha and of
his disciples, the latter in geometrical floral pattern.

The makara torana arch or canopy under which Buddha is
seated is supported on each side by a female figure w'ho holds
up with her hands over her head the base from which it starts,
after the manner of the Caryatides, and seems to bend with the
weight. This arrangement is also to be seen at the old wihdre
at Asgiriya, and also at the Gedige Wihare, both much more
modern buildings.

The same is true to a certain extent of (iadaladenha (Plates
461 and 462). Here the main building which corresponds to
the chancel or choir of a church is occupied by the wihdre. It
is entered by a narrower room which forms a sort of ante-
chapel ; and opening out of this, on the right hand side as
you enter from the outer porch, is a side chapel with a domed
roof of stone now capped by a peaked and tiled wooden one.
This chamber serves as a \'ishnu davdJc. The door of the
de^LHile is flat topped, but the door frame is of stone deeply
carved in separate squares like a series of tiles or plaques, with
figures of elephants, dancers, etc. The * 'chancel " is crowned
by an octagonal dome of stone which is approached by steps
from the exterior, and is used as a second ivihdre. The inner
wall of this chamber is painted with scenes from the last of
the Five Hundred and Fifty Jatakas, the Wessantara Jataka.
These paintings are said to date from the time when the
u*ihdre was built. The arrangement of the dewdle cutting
athwart the wihdre is curious. The same ante-chamber serves

* In Murray's Handbook for India it is stated that this temple •' is
remarkable alike for its situation and for the character of its architecture,
which is very unlike that of any other temple in Ceylon " (p. 478). The dis-
similarity is more in the size and elaborate character of the building
than in anything else.

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459. LANKATILAKE TEMPLE.

460. LANKATILAKE TEMPLE.

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461. GADALAdENIYA TEMPLE.

462. GADALAdENIYA TEMPLE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 341

for both, used end on for the wihdrc and sideways for the K««Miy««>
deivdle. Outside, on the left, is a detached digg^ or hall for Architecture
the tom-tom beaters, a building quite distinct, and apparently
not contemporaneous with the temple proper. Its roof is sup-
IX)rted by ten roughly hewn monolithic pillars of irregular
rectangular shapes which exhibit no attempt at carving or
ornamentation, and no uniformity of size and appearance. They
are exactly like the pillars which one finds here and there stick-
ing up in imperfect but parallel rows in the forests of the
North Central and Northern Provinces, and I imagine that
they are the oldest stone work which is to be found at
Gadaladeniya, older than the much more architectural temple
of the fourteenth century adjoining, although the wooden roof
and masonry walls, of which these pillars form the skeleton,
have often been renewed, and their present representatives are.
modern rough and poor work.

Although the Gadahideniya temple is much smaller than its
contemporary at Lankatilake, the masonry work is finer, being
of stone instead of brick, and the exterior ornamentation is
much more elaborate. In both temples the original walls of
stone or brick appear to have had a coating of plaster, and this
was probably at one time painted. At Lankatilake a portion of
the plastering in the porch remains, but in modern times it has
been whitewashed. At Gadalddeniya it has nearly all crumbled
away, exposing the original stone, but patches of it are left,
and some of these have painting on them which is said to date
from the building of the temple. It discloses a floral pattern.
There is a frieze of stone running round the upper part of
the wall of the main building, under the eaves, composed of a
chain of lions or tigers regardant* (Plate 461). Along the base
and on the dewdle this is changed for one of females dancing
and playing on musical instruments, and executed in a spirited
manner. In the ante-chapel are large stone corbels of sculptured
lions, two on each side. The entrance porch is composed of
huge monoliths twelve to fourteen feet long, supported by very
large stone pillars of the usual Kandyan shape, but with the
addition on the outer side of two slender pillars flanking
the larger ones, so that they form a cluster of three on each
side (Plates 443 and 463). These additional pillars w^hich are
placed here for ornament are of a difi"erent pattern, and such as
are to be found in the older Sinhalese temples of the Kegalle

* Moving to the left with right front lef^s raised high and heads reversed
in that conventional, uncomfortable position always given to vyagras and
gagasinhas (Bell, loc. sit,, p. 35). Vydgras are possibly tigers, and gagasinhas
combinations of elephant and lion. This frieze is almost identical with the
frieze at Ganegoda in Four Korees (see Bell's Kegalle Report, plate opposite
P- 35)-

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342 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

A*"h t ct district and of Anuradhapura. This temple and Lankatilake

form a link connecting Kandyan architecture with the older
Sinhalese architecture of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa.

The woodwork of the tiled roof and the upper storey of the
porch are both modern and mean. It is lamentable to sec
everywhere this process taking place; old and artistic Kandyan
work is being removed and replaced by nondescript and hideous
modern work after the style of the petty masons and contractors
of the low country. The new temples are adorned with plaster
masonry, sometimes representing sham Venetian blinds, bastard
and attenuated Gothic pointed arches are introduced ; the Kan-
dyan wooden pillars give way to round ones of brick plastered
over, of the stock quasi-classical pattern that was introduced
into the bungalows of the early English occupation ; the door-
ways have semicircular arches with poor mouldings ; the door
panels and mouldings are painted in ugly loud colours which
with the panels and mouldings have a Dutch character, but lack
the massiveness and picturesqueness of their Dutch originals ;
and the pretty quaint little windows are being replaced by
rectangular openings filled in with ugly wooden bars.

The following extract from a local paper shows the modern
conception of what the style of a temple should be, i.e. copied
for the most part from the West : —

" At the Musaeus school in the Cinnamon Gardens .
it was decided to have a shrine room built for the use of the
girls of the institution. . . . The building has now been
erected apart from the school buildings, and is a very pretty
structure, a vaulted roof with a fine dome, gothic windows,
doors and a porch, with parapet battlements of classic design,
being very effective.'*

The fondness of the Kandyans for putting a high pitched
tiled roof over everything is remarkable. A great deal of the
stone work of the temples differs little in appearance from the
Hindu architecture of Southern India, in fact, that of the
dewiiles or temples of the Hindu gods whose cult was fostered
by the Tamil kings is almost exactly the same as that of similar
temples in Southern India* and the north of the Island. They
are small rectangular buildings consisting of compartments of
diminishing sizes, the innermost or sanctum surmounted by a
small dome, or by what usually, among the Kandyans, takes
its place, a small square chamber with a peaked roof. No
doubt the masons who built them were workmen from southern
India introduced for this purpose by the kings, themselves

* Dr. Davy noticed this, but remarks that "in viewing the dnvdles or
temples of the gods one is occasionally reminded of Grecian architecture"
(P- 255).

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463. GADALADENIYA TEMPLE.

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464. OEDIQE WIHARE. KANDY.

465. nAtA DEWAlE, KANDY.

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THE BOOK' OF CEYLON 345

latterly of Tamil race. A Kandyan dewdle however is generally "[""^jfij""
a plainer building than is a Hindu kovily* with a less lavish ^
display of decoration usually confined to the doorways and
pillars. But to these buildings the Kandyans have added
a feature of their own which was never contemplated in the
original design and forms no part of it, but on the contrary
is quite out of keeping with it, and that is a peaked roof with
overhanging eaves. To put a roof over a dome of any kind
whether such dome is ornamented with carving and a stone or
metal finial as it generally is, or not, is technically a barbarism.
But this is what the Kandyans have done in the case of the
Lankatilake temple where the stone vaulted roof of the central
wihdre and those of the dewdles which surround it like side
chapels were surmounted some sixty years ago with tiled and
peaked roofs, a feature which has added considerably to the pic-
turesqueness of the building ; also at Gadalddeniya where the
same thing was done 125 years ago with an equally good effect,
even though the roof has recently been renewed in a very
inferior modern style. The Gedige wihdre (Plate 464) at
Kandy, which, though a temple of Buddha, is built in the style
of a Hindu dewdle, both as to plan and details, is also a case
in point, t This building, in fact, bears a striking resemblance
to the Niita dewdle — another of the four Hindu temples at
Kandy (Plate 465).

In both there is a small dome+ at the south end over the
shrine terminating in a stone finial shaped like a pineapple.
In this instance, though the tiled roof is not required archi-
tecturally, but on the contrary hides the outline of the dome,
it protects the latter from the weather, and on the whole
adds to the picturesqueness of the building, besides giving it
a distinctly Kandyan appearance. This fondness for putting
tiled roofs over stone roofed buildings is carried to such a
pitch that in one instance, at Gadalddeniya, the Kandyans have
actually roofed over a ddgaba — the bell-shaped erection in
which the Buddhists enshrine relics (Plate 466). There is a
ddgaba with a roof over it also at Aludeniya in Udu Nuwara
about four miles from Gampola. Here the ddgaba is in a

* Adjaxicts of the kovil, sach as the stone spout in the wall of the sanctum
are usually absent from the dewdle. There is a fine specimen of this spout,
however, at the Berendi kovila a Kandyan building (see one of the Plates
opposite p. 64 of Mr. Bell's Report on Kegalle) ; but this owes its erection
to King Rajah Sinha I., who had abandoned Buddhism and became a convert
to Hinduism.

t It dates from the early part of the eighteenth century.

t Sir A. Lawrie is incorrect in describing this feature of the Gedige mhdre
as a " ddgaba " (Gazetteer of the Central Province, p. 72). It is an un-
mistakable Hindu temple dome, the counterpart of which may be seen by the
hundred in the Jaffna Peninsula.
X

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346 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan chamber at the back of the wihdre and this chamber has a
Architecture ^.Qoden and thatched roof.

The explanation no doubt is that these roofs with their
overhanging eaves are specially suited to a rainy climate like
that of most of the Kandyan country, and serve to protect the
walls from becoming sodden. They have therefore instinctively
been adapted. by the Kandyans and in this the native builders
show more sense than European architects in Kandy and
Colombo who are fond of erecting buildings with elaborate
cement or plaster fa9ades which speedily look weather beaten
and shabby, and the walls of which get soaked through annually
and therefore soon deteriorate. Walls in such climates require
ail the protection from the weather that they can get, and the
Kandyans have learnt this from experience. The people gener-
ally live in houses thatched with grass and a roof of this kind
always projects a good deal beyond the walls. The same plan
has been adopted on very sound principles in the case of more
permanent buildings.

The roofed gateway in the wall of the sacred enclosure at
Kandy (Plate 468) is a good example of a building where the
roof is a part of the original design, and the whole giving a
distinctively Kandyan effect.

Other instances where the roof is a decided improvement
to the building are the Maha or Vishnu dewdle at Kandy
(Plate 467) and the dewdle at Embekke dedicated to the same
god (Plate 454). These are in shape like a Hindu temple,
and are in fact Hindu temples reduced to a plainer character
with the roof over the sanctum taking the place of a dome.
The upper stage which is square carries a small balcony
or verandah supported, at the Kandy dewdle, by slender
wooden pillars. It should be noted that this is merely an
addition for the sake of effect as there does not appear to be
any approach to the balcony which is so shallow as to be of
no practical use. The Kataragama dewdle at Kandy (Plate
446) and the dewdle at Dodanwala in Yatinuwara (Plate 473)
have similar small upper storeys square in plan like a lantern
or tower over the sanctum.

The beams supporting the roof have usually carved ter-
minals of what may be called a conventional pattern (shown
in plates 470 and 428) and the rafters where they project into
the verandah are ornamentally notched, also in a conventional
pattern (Plate 470).

A curious specimen of Kandyan roof construction is shown
in plate 469, which represents one end of the diggd or entrance
hall at Embekke. The woodwork is usually of a massive
character (Plate 447).

Of the other two dewdles at Kandy the Kataragama iewdle

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466. GADALADENIVA TEMPLE AND DAGABA.

*«7 MAHA OEWALE, KANOV.

468. ENTRANCE TO TEMPLE GROUNDS.

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460. ROOF AT CMBCKKE.

470. PILLARS OF THE AUOIENOC HALL

471. HUOUHUMPOLA WIHARE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 349

(Plate 446) is built in the usual style of a Kandyan dewdle which '^■"jj'^*"

is the same as that of a Hindu temple with some Kandyan addi-
tions and variations, e.g., the tiled roof over the shrine, the
doorways, etc. It consists of four compartments, the innermost
or western one forming the sanctum with an image, of Kata-
ragam, the Hindu god of war. The image is contained in a
wooden cabinet or almirah fitted with a pair of doors which,
are thrown open when it is exhibited. Over it is a brass
makara torana — the same canopy that is used for images of
Buddha. Before the image hangs a curtain. In the next com-
partment is another of the gods also under a makara torana,
and in the third are the howdahs which enshrine the image in
the perahera procession, also a palanquin used for the same
purpose. The fourth compartment is the hall for the tom-tom
beaters.

The four compartments open into each other by doors in
the Kandyan style with curtains before them.

The pillars of the exterior have recently been renewed in
a Moratuwa* version of the Kandyan style.

The fourth, the Paltini deiviile is simply a small rect-
angular building standing on the usual stone platform. It
lies north and south ; the shrine is at the south end ;t on the
north and east are doors. It also consists of four compart-
ments, so that the image faces east, but the rules do not appear
to be rigid on this point. The same rule applies to the images
of Buddha.

The outward appearance of a Kandyan wihare (Plate 471,
Huduhumpola) really very much resembles that of a dewdle, the
only difference being that the dewdle is generally longer owing
to its having more compartments.! But the dewdle at Dodan-
wala might easily be taken for a wihdre (Plate 473). It has
not this elongated appearance. Both zvihdre and dewdle
generally have the small square lantern or tower with a high
peaked roof and finial which forms the most conspicuous
feature externally of the building, the pillared ante-room and
shallow verandah.

Dodanwala maha dewdle is situated about three miles
north of the Kandy-Kadugannawa road at a point seven miles
from Kandy (Embilimigama). § Though called a maha dewdle

♦ Moratuwa in the Western Province is the home of all the low country
carpenters.

t In the maha dewdle the shrine is at the north end. In a Hindu
temple the shrine is usually at the west end (as at the Kataragama dewdle).

X This is a noteworthy feature at Embekke dewdle, which is in three
compartments under two roofs.

§ On the 13th February. 1815, the headquarters of the British army
advancing to the capture of Kandy rested for the night at Dodanwala.

Architecture

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3=:o THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan which would imply that it was a shrine of Vishnu, it is really
Architecture dedicated ,to four deified Sinhalese kings or princes, including
one of the Rajasinhas, probably the second of that name, the
king who captured Robert Knox and who reigned from 1634
• to 1684, and to sixty-seven princes who on their death all
became yaksayo or devils. It contains no image but instead
two paintings on wood of two of these kings — which of them
seems uncertain. It is a plain building of the Kandyan style
in three compartments, the sanctum capped by the usual small
square upper storey with peaked roof. There is a carved door
frame to the adjoining kitchen which belonged originally to
the main doorway of the dewdJe. The chief interest of the
de^vdle lies in the tradition connected with it. When King
Raja Sinha II. was on his way to Balane to give battle to the
Portuguese, the cross stick of the palanquin snapped and he
had to alight at Dodanwala. He inquired what the place was
and the kapurala or priest told him that it was Nakamuna
Kowila, the shrine of a very powerful god, and that it was
not well for him to pass it without doing reverence and that
on this account the accident had happened to his palanquin.
The king thereupon made a vow that if he was victorious he
would present his crown and apparel to the temple. On his
return in triumph he kept his promise, leaving there also
some trophies of the fight. In support of this tradition there
is the fact that a gold crown was until recently in the premises
of the deimile and is now on loan in the Kandyan Museum ;
that there are two embroidered silk jackets said to be the
king's still preserved at the dewdle (Plate 473), as well as a
hat, a dozen swords and daggers, some of which are of a
decidedly European pattern, and including the sword of King
Raja Sinha II. himself, with a fine carved palanquin mounted
in brass.

Another curious possession of this temple is a brass crowm,
described as the crown of Wcsamuni, the king of the devils,
which is worn by the chief devil dancer on festivals. The
lower part of this crown is apparently made of clay and is
said to have been originally a mushroom found in a crevice
of the rock. It rests on a tannikkdla, a brass stand for offer-
ings, which is also said to date from the time of King Rajah
Sinha II.

In the space surrounding the procession path below the
temple, where the people assemble on festival days, which has
an avenue of ironwood trees (Mesua ferrea)y a stone is pointed
out under a large sapu or champak tree, as the spot where the
king seated himself when his palanquin broke down. The tree
must be an old one, as its girth, measured four feet from the
base, was found to be ten and a half feet (Plate 474).

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472 SWORDS TAKEN FROM THE PORTUGUESE BY KING RAJA SINHA II.

473. DODANWALA

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474. THE HISTORIC CHAMPAK TREE AT DODANWALA

475. WIHARE AT GALMADUWA Dig i zed by VjOOQ I

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 353

It is in the simpler unpretending village temples with their Kandyan
hipped roofs, wooden pillars and plain but still artistic door-
ways that the spirit of Kandyan architecture is chiefly evinced.
When the Kandyan kings were minded to erect more ambitious
buildings they drew their inspiration and it seems in some
cases their workmen also from Southern India. A conspicuous
example of- this tendency is to be seen in the unfinished wihcire
at Galmaduwa near Kandy (Plates 475 and 476). The story
is that it was built by King Kirti Sri, but that having heard
during the course of its construction that there was a cave
at Degaldoruwa in the neighbourhood he abandoned the
scheme of having a temple here and decided to have it at
the latter place. If this is true, it shows what importance
was attached by devotees to the possibility of utilising a con-
venient cave in the establishment of a shrine, of Buddha or
what a creature of caprice a Kandyan king — like other kings,
may be. There is this to be said in support of the legend, that
Kirti Sri was a devotee and that he was at the same time a
Kandyan king.

One can scarcely credit it, however, for the work at Galma-
duwa is far superior and conceived on a more costly scale
than that at Degaldoruwa, and the whole of the stone work
and masonry at Galmaduwa was finished before the temple
was abandoned. All that remained was the placing in position
of the statue of Buddha and the decoration. The building is
still in very good preservation, notwithstanding that it has
been abandoned for 150 years or more, which speaks well for
the solidity of the workmanship, considering that it has had
to contend against a tropical climate and tropical vegetation.

Sir Archibald Lawrie describes it as ** a very curious build-
ing in the style of a Tamil Hindu temple with a high gopura/^*
There is certainly a strong resemblance in the tower to the
towers which are a characteristic feature of Hindu temples in
Southern India, but the lower part of the structure is in ac-
cordance with the usual Kandyan style, the basement wall
having deep and heavy mouldings like the wall round the
sacred enclosure at Kandy and the walls of Lankatilake and
Gadalddeniya.

The plan of the building is a square room built of stone
surmounted by a tower of brick and stone masonry in seven
diminishing stages, the seventh stage being pyramidal and
ending in a finial. Each of these stages except the last has
an ornament like a pineapple or a diigaha at each of the four

♦ Gazetteer, Vol. I., p. 258. The tower is not a gopura. A gopuram means
in Southern India and Ceylon the tower which surmounts the outer gateway
of the temple enclosure, whereas this tower crowns the centre of the edifice.
It forms the roof of the temole itself.

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354 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan corners. This central building is surrounded by a massive wall
Architecture ^j^j^ ^^ overhanging and deeply moulded cornice, the outer
wall is pierced on three sides by five windows; on the fourth,
which is on the west side, the place of the central window is
taken by a doorway of slightly larger dimensions. The dis-
tance between the central building and the outer wall according
to rough measurement is 14 feet. The former is 29 feet, the
latter 66 feet square. There are but two doorways one into
the enclosure and one opposite it into the sanctum (Plate 476)-
They are each 6 feet wide, the windows 4^^ feet. The thick-
ness of the outer wall is 3^^ feet, not including the mouldings,
of the wall of the sanctum, 3 feet. The most interesting feature
about this building is the shape of the arches of the doorw-ays
and windows. They are semicircular cusped arches with a key-
stone. The door at the entrance to the enclosure has six of
these cusps; the windows two only. The door of the wihdre
has also only two cusps but the apex is formed of an ogee arch
(Plate 476). There is a massive stone border or framing round
the windows on the exterior and this framing includes the arch,
the outer line of which is simply semicircular.

The sanctum is furnished in the interior with the asane,
the pedestal or throne for the image, but is otherwise quite
bare. The brick domed roof is unplastered.

Immediately at the back of the outer wall of the building,
erected on the eastern side and within six feet of it, is a small
7vihdre built by the villagers some sixty years ago in lieu of the
imposing structure which was destined never to be completed.
They erected this building because they were unable to raise
sufficient money to complete the latter. The mean work of the
more modern plastered building (though what there is of it is
Kandyan so far as it goes) consorts ill with the massive stone
and brick masonry of the original but unfinished temple.

The temple is situated within twenty-five minutes' walk
by the road which runs through Galmaduwa Estate, from the
ferry at Ilukmodara, three miles from Kandy on the Han-
guranketa road. There is a short cut turning off to the left
at the sign board marked ** To Galmaduwa Bungalow '* which
makes it considerably less.

The contrast between the Galmaduwa wihdre and such a
building as the Temple of the Tooth or the Audience Hall,
or one of the smaller wihdres built by Kirti Sri, is remarkable.
Their architecture and style would appear to have nothing in
common — they are at opposite poles. The one in fact is Hindu,
the other Kandyan. The Galmaduwa wihdre probably enjoys
the unique distinction of being the most Hindu-looking Bud-
dhist temple in existence.

Aludeniya is an interesting specimen of a small Kandyan

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476 WIHArE at GALMADUWA.

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477. THE MALWATTE POYAOi.

478. INTERIOR OF THE MALWATTE POYAG^.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 357

wihdre. It is said to date from the time of Bhuwanaka Kandyan

Bahu IV., who reigned at Gampola a.d. i 347-1 361. It consists Architecture

of a square room for the image with a hall in front of it and

a room for the ddgaba at the back. The hall is continued at

the sides as a shallow verandah. The central room has a small

square upper storey approached by an external" staircase with

a door in front. This room at one time also contained an

image of Buddha, and still contains a number of small Buddha

images standing on a small table. The carved wooden door

frame of this upper room is said to have been brought here

from the king's palace at Gampola, and I think it is quite

possible that, being under cover, it has lasted for five and a

half centuries. Like most of the more ancient doorways it is

square headed and the carving shows a figure of Laksmi at

the top with an elephant and three dancers on each side. At

the foot on each side are a male and female figure very well

executed. There is a border of dancers and a floral pattern *

round the frame.

This doorway is very similar in its dancing girl pattern
to the stone doorway at Ambulugala wihdre shown in the plate
opposite p. 42 of Mr. Bell's K(!*galle Report, The latter door-
way probably dates from the fourteenth century a.d. The
Aludeniya door frame may also be compared with the wooden
door frame at Dippitiya wihdre in Four Korles (loc. cit. p. 52)
which it resembles in having three bands of carving round the
inner framing which render the doorposts and lintel extra wide.
The outer band of carving in each is of much the same pattern
** a single trail throwing off alternately a flower and a leaf
which curls back over the stem.'' The date of the Dippitiya
temple is not given.

These square headed doorways with carved borders are
characteristic of the older Kandyan architecture. The style
of decoration and the door frames themselves are well described
by Mr. Bell : ** Decorative carving whether in stone, or more
commonly in wood rarely breaks through the conventionalism
of a few recognised, almost stereotyped designs. The main
ornament, repeated in endless variety to the will of the carver,
is the continuous scroll of foliage. A comparative study of
the varying forms this most effective ornamentation (particu-
larly of. vertical surfaces) common to Greek, Roman and later
styles, assumes on the Kandyan temple door frames, would be
in itself interesting. Single or double, large or small, plain
or complex, its convolutions, throwing off son[ietimes leaves
more or less flowered, sometimes a repeated flower or even
enclosing partially or throughout figures of dancers — the one
leading idea is steadily kept in view, and it would be difficult,
if not impossible, to substitute other ornamentation more

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35& THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan elegant, refined and better suited to its purpose.*' A very fine
Architecture specimen of this kind of border, found recently at a temple
near Bentota in the Southern Province, is shown in plate 241.

Mr. Bell continues: "The front faces of door frames also
are carved. The line of ornament invariably runs upwards
from figured base panels on the side posts, and meets at the
centre of the lintel in some crowning design as varied as the
panels below, and equally affording the woodcutter opportunity
of displaying individual taste or strange conceit — dewa rupas*
nari lata^i makara,l faces, etc. The panels at the bottom of
the joints are filled with figures of lions, elephants, dancers
and janitors, and, as with the flowing scroll, are hardly found
alike in any two temples. The whole ol this carving is in
'* sunk relief," no part rising above the plane of the margin,
but the edges of the design are rounded oft", and leaves and
flowers fluted so as to allow of full chiaroscuro play."§

The stone door frames of the two entrances to the Temple
of the Tooth are good specimens of the kind of work described
in the paragraph just quoted. They ** furnish standing
examples of the most delicate scroll work within beading
and water-leaf bevelling cut in stone,'* in this instance only
two centuries back, but of almost the same design as the door
frames four centuries old which Mr. Bell is describing.

Plates 479 and 480 show two wooden doorways in the
pansala at Asgiriya, the exterior of which building is depicted
in plate 495. These date from the time of King Kirti Sri.
They are called respectively hansa putuwd, and Sinha putuive
uluwassa or goose-chair and lion-chair door frame, from
their exhibiting above the lintel designs based upon those
animals.

The platforms with moulded stone walls which form a base-
ment for the buildings have been alluded to. The mouldings
follow more or less a stock pattern. The best example of this
moulding is seen in the wall which surrounds the temple en-
closure in Kandy (Plate 481). Similar walls may. be seen in
the interior of the Old Palace at Kandy and at the Lankatilake,
Gadalddeniya and Galmaduwa temples, and they are also built
round bo-trees. Patterns of very much the same style of
moulding are found in the legs of Kandyan tables and chairs,
and a similar pattern forms the first piece of carving on a
Kandyan pillar, i.e. the nearest to the base, and the piece
that the carpenter or stone cutter starts with, which is known

♦ Figures of gods.

t Literally, *• woman-creeper." Leafy ornament, spreading downwards
from the trunk of a woman's body.
X A mythical monster.
§ Kegalle Report; p. 20.

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47ft 000#r (H ASGimVA PANSALA

460. DOOn IN *5Q"ft^VJ*. PA«S*LA.

J J. WtL;. OF Tfir: TtMF'Lt u«flUMDS ENCLO&UFTE KANDV

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482. CAVES TILE.

483. EAVES TILE.

484. ENTRANCE TO THE OLD PALACE. KANDV.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 361

as dsanakada from its resemblance to the pedestal or throne Kandyan
which supports an image of Buddha. Architecture

Sometimes the line of roof along the eaves is decorated with
pendent-tiles on which are stamped figures of lions or other-
patterns, and these tiles supply the place of weather-ixjarding
(Plates 482 and 483). - . .

There are unfortunately not many of these tiles left, but
specimens of different shapes and patterns are to be seen at
the Mdligdwa, at Lankatilake and at Gangarima wihdres.
At the Temple of the Tooth those that remained have of
late years been removed from the roof of the main building
and set up on a part of the quadrangle which surrounds it,
a building hardly worthy of them. It was easier to replace
the whole line of them with a weather-boarding made of tin
cut into a pattern with nothing distinctively Kandyan about, it
than to get new ones moulded of the same pattern as the old
to fill the gaps in the line of tiles, and as usual in these days
the easier and cheaper course was taken. It should be noted
by way of contrast, as evidence of the artistic feeling of the
workmen who made the tiles, that they were not content to
leave the inner side plain as they might well have. done,' for the
inner side is not conspicuous, or likely to catch the eye of the
casual observer, and while the outer side presents the figure
of a lion, the inner has that of the sacred goose, moulded on it.

There are tiles of the same pattern at Gangarima ; in this
case happily still undisturbed and in their original position.
The same pattern too is to be seen in the borders of some of
the rectangular compartments into which the front wall of
the Old Palace is divided and in the border which runs round
the door arches on the inner side.- This decoration consists of
tiles set into the wall. Both sides of the tile are utilised to
form these borders, viz. that with the lion and that with the
goose stamped on it.

At Lankatilake the tiles are of the shape of a bo leaf, long
and pointed, but here too is to be seen the conventional lion
of- the Sinhalese.

The Lankatilake tiles have been successfully copied in a
modern structure at Kandy, the bandstand on the Esplanade
which is in the national style and is provided with eaves tiles.
Tiles are used in a similar way in the Temple of the Tooth —
let into the wall so as to form a border round the entrance
doorway. They are of the same lion pattern as those used in
the Old Palace; in fact they must have been made from the
same mould.

The images of Buddha and of the gods are always coloured
and considerable use is made of painting for the decoration of
the walls, pillars, roof and ceiling which in rock temples usually
y

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362 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan consists of the soHd rock itself. (Plates 485- and 486, which
Architectura show the interior of a temple at Hataraliyadda, half-way be-
tween Galagadera and Rambukkan, plate 487 the interior of a
tenriple near Bentota, and plate 489 Degaldoruwa.) The ceiling
is painted in floral geometrical patterns in which the lotus
flower repeated like the fleur de lis in the mediaeval decoration
of Europe is a prominent feature. The rock ceiling at Wela-
gama is finely painted, as are the walls of Degaldoruwa. In the
small rock temple at Gonawatta, five and a half miles from
Kandy on the Hanguranketa road, the painting of the rock
ceiling reminds one of an old-fashioned patchwork bed quilt
of many colours. The walls of the temples of Buddha have
figures of Buddha or of his disciples painted all over them,
sometimes as at Gangardma in a regular pattern of squares
alternately of light and dark colours, or often with scenes
from the story of his life or from the Jataka stories. The
favourite jatakas appear to be the Telapatta (No. 96), the
Kusa (No. 534), and the Wessantara (No. 550), the last of all.
At Huduhumpola is a conventional representation of Adam's
Peak with the carved footprint on the top, where perspective
is thrown to the winds and the peak appears as a moderate
sized rock with a ladder cut in the side of it and surmounted
by a pavilion half the size of itself. The presence of the Sri
pada is rendered unmistakable to the spectator by standing it
up on end so that he can see the whole of it without difficulty.
The hare in the moon is another favourite symbol, as are
ddgahas and bo trees. Sometimes, as at the Pallemale adjoin-
ing the Octagan at Kandy, we have a portrait of the royal
founder of the temples; at Welagama there is a portrait of
the Kandyan chief who was one of the principal benefactors
of the temple. In some cases as at the Tooth temple, at
Degaldoruwa and at the poyagd of the Malwatta monastery at
Kandy the capitals and the upper portions of the pillars are
painted (Plates 452, 489 and 478).

The idea seems to be that there cannot be too many figures
or too many of the three attitudes of Buddha in the sanctum.
Where the principal image is a standing or sedent figure it is
often repeated on a diminishing scale on each side. At Wela-
gama rock temple (Plate 491), in one of the three chambers
there are seven sedent Buddhas with five standing Buddhas in
between, in another a large recumbent Buddha and in the third
a sedent Buddha and a dagaha. At Degaldoruwa the large
recumbent Buddha, cut . out of the solid rock, is flanked to
right and left, at each of the end walls, by a much smaller
sedent Buddha, and these figures are again flanked by standing
Buddhas. At Gangardma, however, the founder was content
with one large standing figure twenty-seven feet high, and at

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■ittO TI:m»>LE at HATAflAtiyADOA.

4S7 TtMfc'i-i

DOOn AT WtLAQAMA^

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489. ROCK TEMPLE AT DEGALDORUWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 365

Huduhumpola with one sedcat figure. The figures at Lanka-r Kandyan
tilake and Gadaladeniya are sedent. The image of Buddha is Architecture
frequently flanked by stone figures of gods, kings, chiefs,
disciples, etc., placed at right angles to the. central figure of
Buddha, and regarding it in an attitude of adoration. Each of
these figures has the right arm extended, the palm open and
turned downwards; the left arm close' to the. side also with
the palm open but turned upwards. The effect is decidedly
quaint. An example is to be seen in the interior of the old
VJihare. at.Asgiriya (Plate 496), and at Welagama the makara
torana arch is surmounted by eight figures of gods in this
attitude.' ' '

The "rock, temple at Degaldoruwa, . three-fourths of a mile
from the . Lewella ferry on .the Dumbara side, dates from the
time of King.Kirti Sri, and is noteworthy chiefly for its painted
walls (Plate 489). In front of. the cave chamber is a vestibule
supported on twelve monolithic pillars of a plain octagonal
pattern* widening out into a bulb, just below a kind of cushion
capital which. reminds one of Norman architecture. The doors
help to carry on the resemblance, ^ their seriiicircular arches
springing from i flat, square and shallow impost mouldings as
at the Maligawa and some of the Kandy temples. An outer
vestibule in front of this one has had a modern fa9ade of
no particular style surmounted by a belfry, also nondescript,
tacked on to it within the last twenty or thirty years.

The small poyagi or assembly hall adjoining has a good
carved wooden doorway in the centre of one of the sides
(Plate 499).

The most conspicuous building in Kandy and perhaps the
most striking is the Patirippuwa or Octagon attached to the
Temple of the Tooth and the royal palace. This with the lake
which it overlooks are the most picturesque features in the
town and for them we are indebted to the last king, who though
a tyrant seems to have had some artistic taste. But even in
the construction of these works he was tyrannical, and in
compelling his people to labour at them without pay his un-
popularity was considerably increased.

Next to the lake the Octagon is the chief -object in most
pictures of Kandy and its appearance must be familiar to many
travellers (Plate 490). So much is it a part of Kandy that when

♦ The general resemblance in shape of these pillars to the two pillars of
Ganegoda vjihdre, which are depicted on the second plate opposite p. 34 of Mr.
Bell's KegaUe Report^ is noticeable. Mr. Bell is of opinion that this form of
pillar is Dravidian : " It is to be found at many of the principal temples of
Southern India, Cunjivaram;- Vellore, Vijanagara, etc., with so much soften-
ing of ornamentations as might be expected from the difference of religious
cult."

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366 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan ^^^ Municipal Council was in search of a coat-of-arms, they
Architecture adopted it as the principal charge. The shape is graceful, but
it owes a good deal of its effectiveness to its site. The walls are
very thick and. the lower .chamber has round arched doorways
with nothing distinctively Kandyan about them — they are real
arches ; and in this instance as at Galmaduwa the Kandyan
builders have at least shown that they understood the principle
of the arch. The tradition is that while the king watched the
temple festivals from the balcony of the rooms above, his three
prmcipal wives occupied for the same purpose the three front
recesses in the lower room.*

The palace was a long low building and part of it still
remains, now occupied by the Government Agent of the Pro-
vince who at present happens to be the writer of this description
(Plates 433 and 492). It has little of the decorative about it.
The chief room is entered by a deeply recessed doorway in the
thickness of the wall, and the cusped arch of this doorway
might from its appearance be mediaeval European or Saracenic
(Plates 484 and 493). The walls of the room are decorated in
hasso-rilievo with figures of Kandyan women holding fans, and
of the sacred goose and lion. The outer wall has figures of
the sun and moon on each side of the doorway — the emblems
of royalty — with borders of tiles let into the wall, each contain-
ing a lion figure (Plate 484).

There is nothing left of the king's palace at Hanguranketa,
which was erected by this king's successor Wiyaya Raja Sinha
( 1 739-1 747), and was destroyed in the Kandyan rebellion of
1817, but some fine moonstones, stone pillars of the usual
type with their inverted lotus capitals, and some other carved

* Sir Emerson Tennent states (Vol. II., Fourth Edition, p. 195), and the
statement is repeated in Murray's Handbook (1905;, that '*the palace was
built by Wimala Darma about the year 1600." It is difficult to say whether
any porti6n of the existing building dates from that period. It is noteworthy
that the Government Gazette of 24th February, 1803, announces that the
king had fled from Kandy ** after having set 6 re to the palace and several
temples." and that by the exertions of the British soldiers the fire had been
extinguished, but not until the building was nearly consumed. A drawing
made by Lieutenant Lyttelton, 73rd Regiment, in 1815-1817 shows the front
of the palace very much as it is now. The existing portion was apparently
the Queen's palace. The next statement which is given by Tennent on the
authority of Spitbergen, the Dutch admiral, who visited Kandy in 1602, and
which is also repeated by Murray, viz., that " the king employed the services
of his Portuguese prisoners in its erection'*— though it may be founded on
fact, derives no corroboration from the argument adduced by Tennent (and
also reproduced by Murray) in support of it. viz., that this circumstance
"may serve to account for the European character which pervades the
architecture of some portions still remaining, such as the (Octagon) tower
adjoining the Maligawa temple " ; for the Octagon was not built until the
reign of the last king— probably between 1804 or 1805 and z8i2, at which
time the lake also was constructed.

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^H^^um

_jv Wf Bw ^^

400. THE PATiHiPPOW*

<«. ROQ»< TtWPIX, VlpCk.Aa*MA

*B3 OBAWiWa ROOM. THE OLD P*LACC, K*NDV.

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4B4. STONE CARVING OF A VA«£.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 369 ^

stones, including a water-spout with a fish-shaped head. .The i^andyan
stone platform of the Maha dewdle close by has along it Architecture
a frieze of warriors crossing swords, each with' two men
next him, with the knees bent as in '* physical drill with
arms.*'

Of the palace at Kundasdle founded by King Narendra
Sinha (a. d. 1706- 1739), nothing is left save a mound marking
where the patirippuwa stood, a few plain stone pillars, a sforie
with an elephant carved in it lying on the bank of the river
near by, and some heaps of stones and broken tiles. Two
stones also with elephants carved on them now placed at the
entrance to the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy (Plate 421), and
two more carved with figures of vases,* now in the Kandy
Museum, also came from the Kundasdle palace. **The build-
ings were burnt by the detachment of troops under the com-
mand of Captain Johnson in 1804.**! No doubt these stones
were brought in by the last king for the adornment of the
temple and palace.

Good examples of pansalas or dwellings for the monks are
to be seen at the Malwatta and Asgiriya monasteries at Kandy,
though the process of modernisation is gradually depriving
them of their older and more artistic features. Plate 495 shows
a small pansala at Asgiriya which has so far suffered little in'
this way. Just outside the door is a curious square stone said
to be very old, hollowed out to serve as a foot bath for the
monks entering the pansala.

The pansalas at Huduhumpola and Kundasale are interest-
ing specimens of the architecture and arrangement of a small
Kandyan monastery. The former was founded by King Kirti
Sri about 1777 with accommodation for twelve monks. The
latter also owes its foundation to the same pious king.

The Huduhumpola pansala is built in the shape of a quad-
rangle opening into a spacious verandah which occupies the
whole of this side of the building. The roof is supported by
wooden pillars of the style already described. The usual small
verandah surrounds the other three sides of the quadrangle.
Opening into it are the doors of the monks* cells, each of the
usual Kandyan pattern, which is that of the main door also,
only on a smaller scale, each door about eighteen, inches wide.
Each cell has its own kitchen attached, and there is also a
larger kitchen for general use. There is a window of coupled
lights with carved tops in the room facing the main entrance.
The whole of the centre of the quadrangle is occupied by a
preaching hall supported on carved wooden pillars more slender
than those in the vestibule.

• Plate 494 shows one of these stones.
t Forbes, Vol. II., p. 117.

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370 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandyan At Asgiriya in Kandy there are two wihdres known as the

Architectare Q\^ and New wUidres, but the former is not very old, having
been built by Pilima Talawwa, Disawa of the Four Korles, in
A.D. 1766 (Plate 497). It contains a sedent figure of Buddha
uncler a makara torana arch, and the interior is very similar
to that of the Gedige wihdre (Plate 496). The fi^gures on each
side of Buddha are the gods Nata on his right and Saman on
his. left.

One of the possessions of this wihdre is a ddgaba cut out
of quartz, the top of which takes off. The ddgaba is about a
foot in height.

The New wihdre (Plate 455) was built in 1801 by Pilima
Talawwa, the First Adigar, son of the Pilima Talawwa just
mentioned. It has a recumbent figure of Buddha hewn out of
the rock thirty-six feet long.. The figure of Buddha is painted
all over the walls.

The door used, according to tradition, to have an ivory
border' and was studded with jewels, which have been looted.
The rock at the back, as at Gangardma, is incorporated with
the back wall. of the wihdre and it bears an inscription cut by
order of the last king.*

In one of the poya gewal at Asgiriya is kept a chair, a
heavy piece of work presented to the monastery by King Kirti
Sri. This, chair is shown in plate 497. The semicircular back
is inlaid with ivory. The monastery also possesses a satinwood
table and an armchair said to date from the same period, both
of them of a pattern unmistakably Dutch.

Next to the Gedig6 wihdre a space is marked off by eight
carved stones placed so as to form an oblong thus : — ^^j

See plate 498, where similar stones are shown.

This denotes the site of a poyagd or hall for the ordination
of Buddhist- monks. It is believed that neither gods nor devils
can enter within this boundary (nimawa).

At the Asgiriya monastery there are two of these ordination
halls surrounded by the eight boundary stones (Plate 498 shows
one of these), and at the Malwatta establishment the poyagi is
the principal building, but the exterior has been modernised
and spoilt (Plate 477).

The Gangardma temple near Kandy is a plain rectangular
structure with a verandah on all four sides, built on to a
rock at the back, out of which is cut a large standing figure
of Buddha twenty-seven feet in height. Like most of the
Kandy temples it dates from the time of King Kirti Sri. The
most noteworthy feature about it is the line of eaves tiles

* See Lawrie's Gazetteer, Vol. I., p. 74, for an interesting description of
the ceremonies performed at the opening of this temple.

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496. BUDDHIST ALTAR AT ASGIRIYA.

497. THE OLD WIhArE AT ASGIRIYA.

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OOO. DOOR AT THE QUEENS PALAOC

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 373

round the roof, rectangular in shape and of a lion pattern Kandyan
exactly similar to the tiles built into the front wall of the Old Architecture
Palace.

A Kandyan house is usually built on the plan of a quad-
rangle, or three or perhaps only two sides of a quadrangle,
with very shallow verandahs under the deep thatched eaves.*

I have referred to the doorways as being distinctively
Kandyan. The ordinary and simplest type of door is shown
in plate 500. It is of a shape that I have not seen elsewhere
and is very effective. This doorway, with its small arch cut
in the lintel, is usually of wood, but it is also found carried
out in stone, so that here also a wooden architecture is ulti-
mately developed in stone. It embodies in fact, ** the arch
without the principle of the arch,'* a peculiarity about Kandyan
building noticed by Dr. Davy, though he adds that *'in some
modern buildings the arch regularly constructed with a key-
stone may be found, "t

More elaborate developments of the original patterns are
sometimes adopted for the lintel (Plates 479 and 480), especially
when it is of stone. One consists of a double arch (Plate 501).
A common form for both doorways and canopies in temples
both of Buddha and the gods is the makara torana arch, a
monstrous lion's head minus the lower jaw at the apex sup-
ported by a mythical beast compounded out of several animals. J
This pattern is more grotesque than artistic and seems to be
of Hindu origin.

A Kandyan door is single (Plate 503) or double (Plate 504,
also plates 499 and 500). The constituent parts of a door-frame

* The builder was hampered by rules which were framed apparently by
astrologers. If a Kandyan house was to comprise two rooms, they should be
of 4 and 5 carpenters' cubits in length and the breadth should be neither 3
nor 4 carpenters' cubits but between the two. A carpenters' cubit was double
the ordinary cubit or about equal to a yard. .-

The doors should be small, and the house should face either towards the
north or towards the east — not exactly north nor exactly east, but a point or
two ofiF.

+ Page 255. Round arched doors, but without a visible keystone, are to
be found in the Octagon and the Old Palace at Kandy and in some of the
temples at GaJmaduwa the windows and doorways have properly constructed
arches with keystones.

X There are Sanskrit rules for the composition of this beast : —
Elephant's trunk,
Lion's feet,*

Boar's ear,

Fish's body,

Crocodile's teeth.
Monkey's eye. .
For an account of the makara torana arch see Bell's Kegalle Report, p. 21,
and for representations of it. the plate opposite p. 43 in the same work ; the
cover of the St. Louis World's Fair Ceylon Handbook and plate 496.

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374 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kandswn With a Single door are reckoned by Kandyan builders to be
Architecture nine in number. There is a horizontal cross piece at the top
of the door inside and another outside. Under the latter is
an ornamental lintel, which is nearly always of the pattern
shown in plate 500, though sometimes this is further elaborated
(Plate 502). A very plain rectangular doorway at Welagama
is redeemed from the commonplace by the carved piece of wood
above the lintel (Plate 488). There are two door-posts and
an inner and outer threshold, the latter of which is always
more or less -ornamented with carving. Inside there are an
upright post for the bolt to fit into and the bolt itself. The
door completes the number. The chief peculiarity of a Kandyan
door is that it has no hinges.* Instead, the inner edge of the
door which is made of a thick plank is rounded off and projects
at the top and bottom in short circular ends which fit into
sockets, and on this axis the door swings. It is fastened
inside by a huge bolt of wood fitting into a wooden frame.
These bolts are sometimes very artistic (Plate 503).

Where the door is in two pieces the bolt and its frame are
necessarily rather different in shape (Plate 504).

The Kandyan doorway always has a threshold of wood or
stone and the front of this is usually carved in a conventional
pattern, horizontal mouldings with a lotus in the centre (Plates
500, 485 and 443). In front of a doorway of any importance
there .was usually a semicircular carved stone known as a
moonstone. This is a survival from the ancient architecture
of the Island.! There are fine specimens at Anuradhapura,
but some good ones much more modern in the neighbourhood
of KandyJ (Plate 489, Degaldoruwa).

The doors have outside, massive brass, copper, or iron
handles set in circular plates of the same metals, as well as,
in the case of temple doors which are kept locked on the out-
side, metal bolts. The work of these fittings is often very
artistic as well as distinctively Kandyan (Plates 499 and 500).
There are fine specimens of door handles at the New wihdre
at Asgiriya.

With regard to windows, these are usually very small but
they are of two distinct types. One type w-as that of the
ordinary Kandyan door on a diminutive scale. These windows
are of exactly the same pattern as the doors, down even to
the ornamental threshold and the handle and bolt. A good

* The Kandyan " dreams and shapes

His dream into a door-post, just escapes
The mystery of hinges." — Sordello, Book v,
t E,g , at Hanguranketa, belonging to the king's palace that once existed
there ; at Degaldoruwa, Gangarama, the Maligawa at Kandy, etc.

\ The moonstone is peculiar to Ceylon, see Bell's Kegalle RepoH^ p. 19.

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BOI. DOORWAY AT HUOUHUMPOLA.

002. DOOR AT DCHIOAMA WALAWWA, KANOY.

SHOWING THE BOLT.

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( f'horo ry Mrs. liH'inararriatnr.j

500. WINDOW ntAMC mOM NALANOC.

SOa. WINDOW AT MALWATTE.

a07. WINDOW FRAME : INSlOC

SOe. WINDOW AT LANKATILAKE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

377

example of a window of this kind is shown in plates «;o7 and Kandyan

**^ • r o / Architecture

Sometimes windows are of two lights, as in plate 506.
In these windows the fortuitous resemblance to the mediaeval
windows and mediaeval architecture is extraordinary. In
plate 505, which is of a window from Nalande, thirty miles
north of Kandy, we have the tracery of decorated or per-
pendicular Gothic, with a double ogee arch, independently
developed. The window shown in plate 506, which is at the
Malwatta temple at Kandy, might pass for Norman.

The other type is quite different. Windows of this type
are larger, sometimes very long but without corresponding
height (Plate 508). They are filled with turned wooden bars
lacquered in red and yellow — another Kandyan pattern
which is seen also in the legs of tables and chairs, beds and
palanquins. In a window of the pansala of the Kundasdie
ivihdre near Kandy, which has seven of these bars, the two
outer bars are not In the same plane with the other five, they
are further recessed. Apparently this was done simply for
artistic effect, to give more variety and play of light and
shade.

• This example is unique, as the wooden bolt frame is circular and the
window opens on iron hinges of Kandyan make. The window is not in situ.
It has been removed. The wall, which accounts for the whole of the. frame-
work, being visible. Windows of this type are shown -/« situ in plate 425.

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378

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Localities
of Kandyan
Temples

Malwa/te

Asgiria

Gangardma

Degaldoruwa

Galmadnwa

Lankatilak/

At Kadugannawa on pages 242 and 245 we indicated the
localities of some of the most interesting Kandyan temples
and the routes by which they might be reached. It may now
be useful to point out the position and distance from Kandy
of these and other places that have been referred to in the
foregoing description of Kandyan architecture.

Malwatte Temple and Monastery is situated upon a slightly
elevated site on the borders of the lake, about a third of a
mile from the Queen's Hotel. Its chief building is its poya^gd
or confession and ordination hall illustrated by plates 477 and
478- The interior pillars are monoliths twenty-five feet high.
This institution has jurisdiction over the monasteries of the
southern half of the Island.

The Asgiria Temple is reached by crossing the MataW
railway at the north end of Brownrigg Street, where a path
about half a mile long, prettily wooded on either side, leads
to the various buildings that we have illustrated in plates 455,
496, 497 and 498.

The Gangarama Temple is about a mile and a half from
the Queen's Hotel by way of Malabar Street, taking the
second road to the left, where the post points to Lewella
Ferry. The temple is situated on high ground above the road,
which at this point takes a sharp curve.

For the Degaldoruwa (Plates 489 and 499) we continue
past the Gangarama for a quarter of a mile, and then inclining
to the right take the l.ewella road, which in rather less than
half a mile reaches the ferry at the picturesque spot depicted
in plate 511. Here the Mahavveliganga is crossed and we
proceed by a pretty country lane for one mile, when the
temple is reached. This is a very charming little excursion
in the early morning when the temperature admits of exercise
without discomfort. It is best to drive to the Lewella Ferry
and walk the last mile of the journey.

Galmaduwa (Plates 475 and 476) is reached by proceeding
through Malabar vStrcet upon the BaduIIa road for three miles,
when a place will be noticed with the name ** Mountain
Dairy " inscribed upon it in large characters. At this point
there is a ferry, by which we cross the Mahaweliganga, and
walk for one mile by a short-cut path through cocoanut and
cacao plantations. Upon returning to our carriage by way
of the ferry, one of the pleasantest drives near Kandy may
be taken by continuing our journey upon the Badulla road
for a few miles further. The road here follows the river
which adds greatly to the beauty of the landscape.

Lankatilake (Plates i, 459 and 460) may be reached by a
path a mile in length from the village of Dawuldgala, w^hich
is throe and a half miles from Peradeniya Junction station

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510. LEWELLA FERRY

ai3. FMPIKICE.

a>3. COnNEfl DP A PADpy FICLp

=rag„rze"d*by°'eD'C5^'

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

.381

by a minor road, rather steep and rough in places, but over Localities
which it is possible to drive. If the whole journey is taken j^^*"^**/*"
by a drive from Kandy by this route the distance will be *™**"
nine miles, Peradeniya Junction being half way. Lankatilake
may also be reached as described in connection with Kadu-
gannawa (page 242). In this case the drive from Kandy to
Embilimigama would be seven miles, and thence nearly four
miles by bridle path.

Gadaladeniya is best reached by the route described on Cadaiadeniya
page 242.

Dodanwala should be reached by the route described on Dodanwaia
page 245.

Embekke should be visited at the same time as Lanka- Embekke
tilake. It is nearly a mile by bridle path from Dawuldgdla.

Quite near the Embekke dewdle is the village of Eladetta, Robert Knox
where lived the English captive Robert Knox from the year
1670 to 1679. This circumstance lends additional interest to
the locality. No story of Kandy is complete without some
reference to this remarkable man who, captured by Raja
Sinha II. in the year 1659, lived amongst the Kandyans for
twenty years, at the expiration of which period he escaped
almost miraculously, and has handed down to us an account,
of the country and people, the strict veracity of which is un-
questionable, notwithstanding that in strange and romantic
incident it surpasses most fiction.*

The capture of Englishmen who anchored their ships in
the bay of Cottiar in order to trade with the natives appears
to have had a fascination for King Raja Sinha, who at one
time had no fewer than sixteen, whom he allowed to live in
and around Kandy under strict guard. Most of them resigned
themselves to their fate, found wives amongst the native
women, settled down to native life and customs, and never
left the Island ; but Knox preserved his self-respect, took a
remarkably intelligent interest in all the strange events of life
around him, and never lost hope of escape. He occasionally
came across some of the other Englishmen, and for some time
lived with three of them at Eladetta. Here he acquired a piece
of land and built a small cottage which he shared with Roger
Gold, Ralph Knight and Stephen Rutland. Knox planted up
his land of which he says, ** All grew and prospered, and
yielded me great plenty and good increase, sufficient both for
me and those that dwelt with me. . . . We four lived
together some two years very lovingly and contentedly, not
an ill word passing between us. . . . Thus we lived 'in
the mountains, being round about us beset with watches. We

• " An Historical Relation of the Island of Ceylon^ by Robert Knox, a
captive there near twenty years," London, 1681.

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382

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

eiadetta

Paddy
cultivation

could walk where we would upon the mountains, no man
molesting us ; so that we began to go about a-peddling-, and
trading in the country, further towards the northward, carr>—
ing our caps about to sell." Referring to the situation of
his land Knox says : ** The place also liked me wondrous well,
it being aiipoint of land- standing in a corn field, so that the
corn fields were on three sides of it and just before my door
a little corn ground belonging thereto and very well watered-
In the ground, besides eight cokernut trees, there were all
sorts of fruit trees the country afforded.'*

To those who are acquainted with Robert Knox's en-
grossing narrative a visit to the spot w-here he spent so many
years of his long detention amongst the Kandyans will afford
some interest. His plot of land with the corn fields on three
sides as he described it adjoins the present residence of the
Dewa Nilame,* the noble old Kandyan chief whom we see in
our picture (Plate 515) surrounded by his Korales or sub-
ordinate officers and his elephants at the entrance of his
walawwa. Within a few yards of this is the historic spot
where Knox's cottage stood. There is now no trace of the
humble dwelling ; but the site is still as described in his narra-
tive. After nearly twenty years* captivity Knox escaped and
subsequently wrote and published his observations, in which
he did a service to posterity that will preserve his name for
many more centuries.

The natural beauty of the Kandyan country is greatly
enhanced by the artifice of the paddy cultivator. No visitor
can fail to observe how exquisite is the appearance of the
hillsides that are terraced into shallow ledges upon which
tiny lakelets are formed for the purpose of growing rice, or
paddy as it is locally called, the latter term being applied to
rice in the husk. The ingenuity displayed by the natives in
the irrigation of steep mountain slopes is the most remark-
able feature of Sinhalese agriculture. The cultivation of
paddy demands land that will retain water upon its surface,
not only during the period of germination, but during a great
portion of the time required for the maturity of the plant;
indeed, the half-ripe paddy, which clothes the slopes of the
hills with a mantle of the most radiant green, stands deep in
water. Only as the time for harvest approaches are the dams
broken and the water allowed to escape. In olden days, when
the inhabitants of these mountain fastnesses depended entirely
upon local produce for their sustenance, their native skill was

* The Dewa Nilame is the title of the chief who administers the lands
of the Temple of the Tooth. He has a Viddn^ or subordinate ofl5cer in
each village who c^Uects the funds for commuted services, and directs
the performance of non-commuted service^ due to the Temple.

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315. SCENE AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE DcWA Nl LAMES WALAWWA

AT ELADETTA.

516. ELEPHANTS AT PLAY.

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Google

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

385

quickened by necessity. If they were to enjoy the fare which ^^^^v
the low country people with their vast stretches of swampy cult vat on
land could so easily obtain they must find means of retaining
the needful element upon their precipitous hillsides; to this
end they scarped the hills, bringing forward the earth thus
removed to the front edge of the levelled ground, and utilising
it for the formation of shallow dams. The effect of this was
the construction of a series of pans the shape of which followed
the contour of the hills. Plate 517 sufficiently portrays the
method and its results that no further explanation is necessary.
But no picture can do full justice to the scene, and it must
always be borne in mind that there is no green like paddy
green, the rich glow of which must be seen in the mass in the
fields to be adequately realised. The ingenuity displayed in
keeping all the thousands of tiny lakelets supplied with water
stamps the Kandyan with the hall mark of resourcefulness.
The watercourses of the mountain tops are carefully studied,
and every stream is deflected to serve the end of the husband-
man ; aqueducts of various materials, some of stone,, some
merely mud, and others of bamboo, convey the precious fer-
tiliser to the various ledges. Watercourses are even con-
structed by tunnelling for long distances to catch the water
of streams, whose natural courses would convey it in quite
different directions. Many of them are considerable works of
engineering, one having been carried for six miles, in the
course of which it is fed by five large streams.

But the application of art to the culture of paddy is not Ceremonies
limited to the formation of the terraces and their irrigation ;
it extends to every process connected with the industry. The
traveller sees only the picturesque fields and the quaint groups
of workers as he travels by road or rail ; sometimes perhaps
he hears a distant chorus of song, or the sound of the tom-
tom ; but he knows nothing of the curious and interesting
ceremonies that accompany every operation. What, with a
sublime sense of the superiority of our own knowledge and
Intelligence, we are pleased to call superstition enters into
every step in the undertaking which we have now under
review.

It is the belief of the agriculturist that the success or The cultivator's
failure of his endeavours depends mainly on the innumerable ^^ItT^ ^'^ ''^^
and unseen influences of gods, demi-gods and devils, benign
or evil, all of which must be invoked, conciliated or appeased,
as the case requires. The more enlightened tenets of Buddhism
have not, as we have previously observed, banished his fear
of the spirits of evil who figure so largely in the older religious
systems. The belief in the necessity of an appeal to the super-
natural in almost every important act of life is the heritage of

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386

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Paddy
cultivatioa

The seasons

The plough

The seed

Sowing

vast ages of Eastern thought. Thus in the primary operation
of selecting land for tillage there is the consultation of planetary
powers through the medium of the astrologer. Again, cultiva-
tion must be begun with due regard to the lucky day and
hour;, the astrologer claims his toll of betel in fixing the
auspicious moment. Even the choice of a person who is to
start the work of clearing the land is important, the task
being committed to one who is considered to be favoured by
the gods. With equal care must the buffaloes be introduced
for the purpose of trampling the w-eeds and kneading the
moistened soil, while for the most important act of sowing
the choice of the proper hour is the object of great solicitude.

In this climate, where the temperature changes little
throughout the year, seed time and harvest are by means of
irrigation very much at the will of the husbandman, who
therefore fixes his seed time according to the average condi-
tions of rainfall in his particular district. In Kandy the
harvest is arranged to fall in February, while in the low
country nearer Colombo it is some weeks earlier, and in many-
districts it falls at quite different periods of the year.

The plough is a primitive implement of wood, the share
of which is not much larger than a man's arm, or, as Knox
says, " something like an elbow which roots up the ground
as uneven as if it were done by hogs." He also states that
the ploughs are made light in order that they may not be
unmanageable in the mud. They do not turn the soil in
furrows and bury the grass, which would be unnecessary ;
for the land is subsequently flooded in a manner that rots
the uprooted surface vegetation. A cross bar is attached to
the end of a pole that extends from the ploughshare, and
tethered to this the buffaloes draw the plough, the operation
of which they effectively supplement by their own trampling.

The seed paddy is prepared by soaking in water for about
thirty-six hours, after which it is spread upon a mat and
covered with the green leaves of the plantain tree. After
several days it begins to germinate and is then ready for
sowing. Meanwhile the cultivator levels the ground, w'hich
is still flooded, and so remains while the seed is germinating.
The seed being now ready the water is drained off, and
diminutive channels or furrows are found on the surface
which carry away any rain that may fall; for water would
now be injurious until the corn has attained the height of
about three inches. The paddy seed is now strewn upon the
mud with great evenness. After a few days, during which
the land is kept as free as possible from surface water, the
openings that have been made through the dams to drain
off the water are stopped, and the land again flooded, and

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51& TOM-TOMS USED IN PADDY CULTIVATION CEREMONIES.

519. ELEPHANTS AT NUGAWELA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

389

until the corn ripens atid the time of harvest is

Paddy
cuMvatloa

SO remains
near.

The young plants are said to be saved from the ravages
of insects by means of charms and the recital of various in-
cantations. The charms include the scattering of sand or charms
ashes around the borders, accompanied by fasting and strict
seclusion from society on the part of the performer of the rites ;
instances of the benign influence of the Lord Buddha in free-
ing the corn from pests are solemnly recited and the same
influence invoked. Other gods and goddesses are appealed
to for securing the departure of various grubs and flies, and
in every case a strange ceremony is performed. Many of the
invocations are couched in beautiful language, but the execu-
tion of the charms involves proceedings that to us appear
somewhat strange ; as when * * after dark a man steals three
ekel brooms from three difi'erent houses. These he ties together
with creeper and hangs them to his waist-string behind. Pro-
ceeding to the field, he walks three times round it, buries
the bundle in the main opening through the dam and returns
home unobserved. The whole time, and if possible the next
morning, he remains mute.*' Again, *' the Yakdessd should
spend the previous night in a lonely spot, after having put
on clean clothes and eaten * milk-rice. ' The following morn-
ing, without communicating with anyone he should go to the
field. Having caught a fly, he must hold it for a while in
rosin smoke, over which he has muttered the following charm
one hundred and eight times, and afterwards release it in
the field: * 0*nnamo ! By the power of Lord Buddha who
came to dispel the pestilence of the great city Wisdla, this
very day all ye flower-flies, black flies, probiscus-armed flies,
and earth grubs of this field, away, away; stay not.***

With reference to these customs Knox, who, it will be
remembered, lived amongst the Kandyans during his captivity
for nineteen years, with characteristic naivete remarks : *' And
indeed it is sad to consider how this poor people are subjected
to the devil ; and they themselves acknowledge it their misery, .
saying their country is so full of devils and evil spirits that,
unless in this manner they should adore them, they would be
destroyed by them. ... If a stranger should dislike
their way, reprove, or mock at them for their ignorance and
folly, they would acknowledge the same and laugh at the
superstitions of their own devotion ; but withal tell you that
they are constrained to do what they do to keep themselves
from the malice and mischief that the evil spirits would other-
wise do them, with which, they say, their country swarms."

* From ** Paddy Cultivation Customs." by H. C. P. Bell, C C.S
R A.S. Journal (Ceylon branch). Vol. VIII. No. 26.

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390

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Paddy
cultivation

The crop-
watcher

Harvest

It would almost seem that charms are introduced chiefly to
meet emergencies in which practical methods are of no avail;
but when the Kandyan has to deal with the depredations of
birds and the larger animals we find that he is not above
supplementing supernatural agency by human means. A crop-
watcher's hut is built of bamboos and roofed with plaited
cocoanut fronds; and from this lines of* cord, made from
cocoanut fibre, " extend in all directions, communicating with
ingeniously constructed rattles of an' alarmingly discordant
nature. Thus the inhabitants of- the hut are enabled effectively
' to scare both animals and birds who would otherwise rob
them of the fruits of their labour. But they do not depend
solely upon these devices : this little hut is the temporary home
of many persons who reside in it night and day during the
ripening period, and each occupant is armed with a bow and
stones. The bow is of the ordinary kind used with arrows,
but with a second string which enables it to hurl stones ; for
the enemies of the paddy cultivator are not limited to the
smaller creatures, but include all manner of wild animals
whose depredations need the most constant vigilance.

We now come to the time of harvest, and for a moment
again refer to Knox, who says : ** At reaping they are ex-
cellent good, just after the English manner. ... As
they join together in tilling so in their harvest also; for all
fall in together in reaping one man's field, and so to the next
until every man's corn be down. And the custom is that every
man, during the reaping of his corn, finds all the rest with
victuals. The women's work is to gather up the corn after
the reapers, and carry it all together." This is as true to-day
as when Knox penned the words more than two centuries ago.
Indeed this pursuit of paddy culture is to them an honourable
and even sacred duty and is engaged in quite irrespective of
economic considerations ; for if wealth were the only object
the Kandyan would now find it more profitable to import his
rice and direct his attention to other articles that would bring
him a better return. But it is not wealth that he seeks ; he
works not for mere wages, but in obedience to ancient customs.
It is this attitude that accounts for the introduction of an
elaborate ceremonial into his favourite pursuit. We shall now
see in his harvest operations how true this is, and the reader
may behold in our illustrations realistic scenes that will con-
firm our assertions.

The priests, astrologers, doctors and devil-dancers arc now
agreed as to the auspicious moment for putting in the sickle;
the band of tom-tom players assembles ; spectators also arrive
upon the scene ; everyone wears a look of gladness. The intro-
ductory symphony is played by the drums of strange make

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521. REAPING PADDY.

522. CARRYING THE SHEAVES TO THE THRESHING FLOOR.

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52^. THtl CLREMONY Or 1 ht FIRST SHEAF.

524 THE CEREMONY OF THE THREE^ S^Hji^fek^^^y ^^

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

393

Paddy
cultivation

Threshing
floor

and tuned to intervals unfamiliar to Western ears, and song
bursts forth from the reapers as they spring forward from the
shallow embankments with their keen sickles to fell the stand-
ing corn. The ceremonies connected with paddy cultivation
vary in different districts, but I am describing what I saw at
Nugawela through the courtesy of Rat^mahatmaya Nugawela,
son of the D^wa Nilam^ to whom reference has been made. Reaping
Our illustration (Plate 521) faithfully portrays the scene. The
onlookers are in the foreground, and the tom-tom players
upon the bund are stimulating the reapers with the weird music
of their drums. The various kinds of drums are depicted in
plate 518, and a complete group of the tom-tom beaters and
dancers is given in plate 520. The vivacity of the scene is
striking ; it . is the natural introduction of native sentiment
into the operations of agriculture; the work is easier and
more cheerfully done to the accompaniment of melody; how
strangely it contrasts with the stolid and often depressed mien
borne by Hodge of the Western world, whose whole manner
is as heavy as his boots.

The work of carrying the sheaves to the threshing floor Carrying
is allotted to the women. In plate 522 we see them walking
in procession along the bund or dam with sheaves upon their
heads, and in plate 523 they have arrived. The threshing floor
is in the open field upon high ground in the most con-
venient place that can be found near the irrigated land. It is
usually circular in shape and from twenty-five to forty feet in
diameter. The ceremony that here takes place is exceedingly
picturesque, the details only varying in different districts. In
the middle several concentric circles are traced with ashes,
the outer one being bordered by various ornamental signs.
The circles are bisected by straight lines; in the divisions or
segments thus formed various representations are drawn ;
sometimes these are a considerable number and include several
agricultural implements, a broom, Buddha *s foot, a scraper,
a flail and a measure; but in the ceremony which I witnessed
and illustrate the segments only of the inner circle were used,
and in these were drawn a pitchfork, a scraper and a measure ;
near these were placed a stone and a conch shell, the latter
filled with various ingredients which remind one of the
constituents of the pot of the beldames in Macbeth, The
preliminaries being now completed, and the lucky moment
ascertained, that husbandman whom the gods have most con-
sistently favoured with good fortune is chosen to cast down
the first sheaf. With this upon his head he walks with grave
and solemn step thrice around the traced figure, bowing
towards the conch shell as he reaches each point from which
the bisecting lines are drawn; then, being careful to face the

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394

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Pad4y
cultivation

Treading out
the com

The buffaloes

Winnowing
and pounding

direction fixed by the astrologer, he casts down the sheaf
upon the conch shell and, prostrating himself as illustrated
by plate 523, with joined palms he profoundly salutes it three
times, rising to his knees after each salutation. He then retires
and three women approach the conch shell as seen in plate 524,
and after walking thrice around it in solemn and silent pro-
cession they cast down their sheaves upon that already placed
there and retire. The rest of the corn is brought in and cast
upon the threshing floor without further ceremony. The fee
due to the women for their share of the ceremony is as much
rice as would lie upon . the stone which formed part of the
articles deposited under the first sheaf.

At eventide, the auspicious moment being first ascertained,
teams of buffaloes. (Plate 525), as innocent of the muzzle as
though they were subject to the Mosaic law, are brought to
the threshing floor and driven over the paddy, always to the
accompaniment of song. In districts where rainfall is frequent
threshing takes place on the eve of the day of reaping, and
while in such fresh condition the ears need a very considerable
amount of trampling, during the course of which no reverence
that can be shown towards the mutta or charmed conch shell
is neglected; with solemn homage the men bow as from time
to time they sweep the half threshed ears from the edges
towards the centre of the floor. Sometimes one of them will
take up the wooden prong with which the straw is pushed
back from the outer edges, and placing it upon his shoulder
march round the threshing floor singing a song invoking
immunity from the influences of evil spirits.

The buffaloes which we sec in our picture, although so
useful and obedient to the Sinhalese boys, who keep them in
constant motion upon the unthreshed paddy, are of the same
species as the dangerous beasts that in their wild state afford
such excitement to the sportsmen, when they are enemies by
no. means to be despised ; their heav}* ribbed horns, which lie
apparently so harmless on their shoulders, are good both for
attack and defence, and when threatened either by man or
beast they are extremely resolute antagonists.

At length the paddy is found to have been trodden from
the ears and the bufi^aloes are released and driven off to their
more congenial occupation of wallowing in the swamps until
again required. The straw is removed and the! paddy fanned
free of any rubbish that may have accumulated amongst it.
Next it is heaped in the middle of the threshing floor and a
charm is placed upon it, A lucky hour is next ascertained
for the process of winnowing, when it is pounded by the
women as illustrated in plate 526 and tossed and fanned upon
th^ winnowing trays. It is then stored in granaries, one of

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525. TREADING OUT THE CORN.

526. THE WOMEN WHO POUND AND WINNOW THE CORN.

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THE WALAWWA DCCORATEO IN RELApXlAMA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

397

the most curious forms of which is the hissa (Plate 528). This Paddy
receptacle is usually in the shape of a large urn made of cultivatiwi
basketwork which is protected with a thick coating of mortar.
This coating usually reaches to the top of the bissa, but in The bissa
our illustration we see it extending only to the middle, and
the bare upper portion gives a good idea of the method of
construction. In most instances the bissa has a circular
thatched roof, not square as in our picture.

• The short sketch of ceremonies attendant on the cultiva-
tion of paddy here given must not be regarded as a complete
account; for the customs are infinite in variety, and those of
one district would, if fully described, occupy a considerable
portion of this volume.

The curious decoration known as relapdlama exemplified Reiapdinma
in plates 527 and 529 is a form of Kandyan art that deserves
brief notice. It represents the native method of house decora-
tion for occasions of special hospitality, festivity or showing
respect. In the present instance Rat^mahatmaya Nugawela,
the chief of the district, had decorated his walawwa for the
reception of the Government agent upon his official visit of
inspection. The appearance in a photograph is that of
crinkled paper; but it is in fact cloth of various colours, and
it represents very considerable labour and skill. The artist
is one of the chief's retainers whose sole duty lies in attending
to this decoration.

The Kandyan 's love of ceremonial is perhaps best instanced
by the display that takes place upon occasions of the per-
formance of official functions. We have already referred to
the system of administering rural districts in accordance with
ancient customs through the medium of native chiefs and their
subordinate officers under the direct instructions and super-
vision of the Government agents, and we may now pause for
a moment to gather some idea of what those customs were
in the days of the Kandyan kings. Sir John D*Oyly, who
was present throughout the Kandyan war and was afterwards
political resident in Kandy, has left a comprehensive sketch
of the constitution of the Kandyan kingdom, from which we
learn that the King was an absolute despot with power of life
and death; but in matters of importance it was customary for
him to consult his nobles and the chief priests. His authority
was exercised through officers of state to whom the general
administration of public affairs was entrusted. These officers
were Adigdrs, or prime ministers ; Disdwas, or governors of
provinces below the mountains; and Ratemahatmayas, or
governors of districts in the mountains. These officers pos-
sessed universal authority, both executive and judicial, within
their respective jurisdictions. They received no stipends, but

Administra-
tion of rural
districts

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398 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AdminiMni- were entitled to sundry emoluments from persons under them.

dit* I!!»r""^ Their subordinate officers called K6rA\As acted in various
capacities as headmen of villages or of classes of people classi-
fied according to caste or occupation. The sub-division of
authority included too many titles and offices f^r detailed
mention here; it is sufficient for our purpose to remark that
the system was possessed of sufficient merit to be in the main
preserved under British government. The place of the Adigdr
is now occupied by the Government Agent, but the Rat^mahat-
mayas and K6rdlds remain, and with them many of the pic-
turesque ceremonies denoting respect for rank. One of these
we will shortly desecribe.

The Government The traveller who takes a drive for a few miles into one

A gtfU on circuit ;^^.^j^^ districts presided over by a Rat^mahatmaya may find
the road temporarily blocked by the presence of some ten
to fifteen elephants, more or less adorned with trappings;
the Ratdmahatmaya or chief himself in his official costume
attended by the K6rdlds from a large number of villages, an
extensive group of devil dancers in their gorgeous and weird
habiliments (see plate 520), the band of tom-tom players in
equally diabolical attire, and a throng of beholders all decked
in the gaudiest of comboys. They are awaiting the arrival of
the Government Agent, who is coming on circuit of inspection.
The position they have taken up is about two miles from the
walawwa, or residence of the Rat^mahatmaya, where the
inquiry into matters of administration takes place. Presently
a carriage is seen approaching in the distance; the word goes
forth that the Government Agent is coming, and a procession
is formed to conduct him to his destination, the elephants
leading in single file with the devil dancers and tom-tom
players next, in double file and facing backwards, the K6rilds
next and the chief in all his magnificence in the rear. When
the carriage arrives in rear of the procession the Rat6mahat-
maya salutes and welcomes the Government Agent, the
K6rilds then salute in turn after the Kandyan fashion by
placing the palms of the hands together, the Government
Agent returning the salute in the same manner. This cere-
mony being over the procession proceeds and the devil dancers
and tom-tom players still moving backwards dance and dis-
course song until the walawwa is reached. Our small snap-
shot (Plate 530), which it will be observed is taken over the
ears of the horses, will give some idea of this interesting pro-
cession. The elephants which are only dimly observable in the
distance will give an indication of the length of the procession,
a continuation of which is observable in plate 531, where the
elephants are proceeding round a bend of the road. Upon
arrival at the walawwa the members of the procession disperse

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 401

and the Government business begins; not^ however, until Admintotra-
the sightseers have been entertained with some amusing per- jj*?J*!j'"^*'
formances by the elephants in which they display their tract-
ability, intelligence and obedience to their keepers. In plates
516 and 532 we see them at play, one of their performances
being a sham execution by pretended trampling upon the
victim.

The crowd consists for the most part of suppliants from suppliants
scores of outlying villages, who claim on various grounds to
be exempted from taxation; some have been disabled for life
by the venomous bites of snakes ; others by falls from trees ;
many exhibit limbs contorted by rheumatism; some are too
old; others too young. Each is brought forward by the
K6rdld of his village, who explains the nature of the plea,
the suppliant himself supplying the details. In many cases
the grounds are insufficient for exemption, and the practised
eye of the Government Agent is quick to detect a sham pre-
text or feeble excuse. Amusing incidents often occur, as
when the youth, who may be seen in plate 533, pleaded that
he was a child of tender years, in reply to which statement
the K6rdld, whom we see in the same picture with his back
turned towards us, remarked that at any rate he had ** con-
ducted a wife,** the native term for marriage. This intro-
duction of the innocent child's connubial achievements drew
a smile from his own countenance, which had hitherto worn
a look of dejection, and a peal of laughter from the crowd.
Thus discomfited he retired, the decision having been given
that in labour or in kind he must contribute his quota to the
revenue.

The K6r^lds, or headmen of the villages, are distinguished The KdrdiHs
as may be seen in plates 533-536 by their hats. They are
in decidedly ** undress ** uniform as to their shoulders, and
look rather as if they had taken off their coats and stuffed
them into their waist cloths. Their dress is, however, very
suitable for the climate in which they live, and entails none
of the discomforts which our conventional attire inflicts upon
us in the same country. In plate 536 the suppliant standing
in the foreground is supporting what seems to us to resemble
a log of wood, and it will be noticed that others in the crowd
have similar articles; these are in fact umbrellas, each con-
sisting of a single leaf of the talipot palm ; when spread out
as seen in plate 365 they are much more effective and useful
than the European article, which would be of little service in
tropical storms.

Every detail of administration passes under the review of
the Government Agent as he proceeds from time to time on
circuit. The schools, the Gansabawas, or village tribunals,

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402 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Bdttcaiion and the dispensaries are visited and the work and proceedings
dit'i^ examined. Nugawela girls' schcx)l is illustrated by plate 538;
the pupils have considerately come out from beneath the
thatched roof to appear in the photograph. Other village
schools are represented in plates 537 and 540. Education is
compulsory and enforced through the medium of the village
tribunal. No attempt has been made to introduce, great
changes that might result in the destruction of the sentiments
of culture that have come down as an inheritance of the people,
the fruits of social systems that have little or nothing in
common with Western ideas. The policy has been rather to
substitute European practical methods gradually, exchanging
the black-board for the sand upon the floor, and the modern
printed book for the primitive palm leaf manuscript; and
passing on to the encouragement of physical exercise and such
practical pursuits as that of gardening. Referring to the
older method the Director of Public Instruction says —

** There is no more interesting survival in Ceylon than the
Pansala school. Centuries ago these schools were a living
institution here, as they are to-day in Burma. In Ceylon only
a feeble flicker of that life remains; but here and there you
will still find at the village temple a yellow-robed priest seated
perhaps under a tree and teaching five or six boys. Each of
these holds a scrap of ola manuscript, and they are learning
to read from such books as the temple happens to possess.
There is a well-defined series of old works on the Sinhalese
alphabet and grammar, which is supposed to form the regular
course of the Pansala school. But such studies are, as a rule,
confined to those intended for the priesthood; the ordinary
village boy at the Pansala school learns nothing except to
read and write, and this instruction is imparted by means of
books only dimly understood. Many have thought that the
Pansala school ought to have been adopted by the English as
the means of education in rural districts. But such a step
was impossible."

In earlier times it was not customary to provide any
education for girls. It was in fact considered in Ceylon as
unwomanly for a female to read and write as in Europe it was
for a woman to smoke or drive an omnibus. It was not the
custom, and the stigma or opprobrium was attached to the
accomplishment. But now the old attitude has become a
thing of the past and in a Sinhalese village such a scene as
that depicted by plate 538 is common enough.

The school garden which will frequently be noticed by the
visitor who explores the Kandyan country is the latest develop-
ment of the native schools. Suitable sites and sufficient land
are provided near the school premises, with teachers who are

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541. HATARALIYADDA.

54Z THE GANSABAWA AT HATARALIYADDA. jOUVIC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

40s

capable of giving instruction in the work; seeds and imple-
ments are supplied by the Government and the produce is
divided between the masters and pupils. The scheme has
worked well, and it is particularly noticeable that useful vege-
tables are cultivated, many of which were unknown to the
districts before the school gardens were inaugurated. More-
over, new products from other countries have been introduced
experimentally, so that the observant pupil may acquire in-
formation that will be most useful to him in his after life,
which must in most cases be devoted to agriculture; and the
system extensively applied may prove of great value to the
country at large.

The Gansabawa or village tribunal to which we have
referred is a court of minor causes in both civil and criminal
cases. It is presided over by a paid official who bears the
title of President of the Gansabawa. The value of such an
institution in outlying districts where the matters in dispute
are often trivial and the people naturally litigious cannot be
overestimated; it saves time and costs to litigants who would
otherwise have to spend days in travelling to a superior court ;
and it has the great merit of relieving the higher judiciary of
petty cases. Illustrations of Gansabawas are given in plates
539 and 542. The former is at Galagedara, and the latter at
Hataraliyadda. These two places are rather off the beaten
track of the visitor, but merit some description. Galagedara
is a village situated in the division of the Kandyan country
known as Tumpane, near the high road from Kandy to Kurune-
gala. At the eleventh mile from Kandy a minor road inclining
to the left is taken and the village reached in half a mile. The
country is picturesque for the whole distance, its beauty in-
creasing when at the ninth mile the mountains of the Kurune-
gala district come into view. It is an agricultural centre of
some importance and possesses a very comfortable rest-house
overlooking a village green upon which the school (Plate 540)
is built. It was until recently the seat of a magistrate, for
whose residence the building which now does duty as a rest-
house was erected.

Hataraliyadda is a hamlet lying' in a most fruitful and
beautiful valley midway between Galagedara and Rambuk-
kana, from which it is distant seven miles. It is at the foot
of Allagalla on the north side, as noted on page 233, where
we have described the south side of the mountain along which
the train creeps in its ascent from Rambukkana to Kandy.
The exuberant richness of the vegetation will be noticed in
plate 542, which in the foreground presents the Gansabawa
with the heights of Allagalla in the distant background. This
is a warm and moist spot surrounded by hills and well watered,

School
ffardcno

The Qansa-
bawa

Hotarali-
yadda

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4o6

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Hatarall-
yadda

Dumbara

Gonawatte

and while the conditions for the rapid growth of tropical vegfe-
tation are perfect they are most enervating to the European.
A night spent under shelter of the Gansabawa was the
warmest I ever experienced, save perhaps some July nig-hts
in the Red Sea. The early mornings are thick with dense
mists ^ which, however, rapidly disperse with the appearance of
the sun.

Whether we make an excursion from Kandy to the north,
south, east or west the landscape will be found equally interest-
ing and the flora one dream of beauty, while the roads, in
contrast with those of other beautiful countries, as for instance
New Zealand, present no difficulties or even features of dis-
comfort for either cyclist, motorist, or the patron of the more
primitive method of conveyance by means of horses or bullocks.
It is somewhat difficult to select excursions for detailed descrip-
tion here, since obviously all places of interest cannot be dealt
with in this modest volume. Our choice, however, falls upon
Dumbara, on the eastern side, because with the great natural
beauty common to the whole province it combines features
of considerable historic interest, and moreover in its agricul-
tural products differs somewhat from the districts to the west
which we have already explored.

If the weather is propitious we need prepare only to sf)end
two nights away from Kandy, at Teldeniya, where we shall
find a good rest-house, charmingly situated and presided over
by an attentive member of the gentler sex, an uncommon cir-
cumstance, in Ceylon.

We start from Karidy by way of Malabar Street and
onwards to the sixth mile where Gonawatte Ferry is reached.
Close by the road opposite the toll station are a large bo
tree, a wihdre and a pansala. '* A sitting image of Buddha,
formerly placed under the overhanging rock, is in the pansala;
the rock under which the image stood is painted to imitate
cloth. Offerings are made at the bo tree. Some yards higher
up is a ddgdha, sixty feet in circumference on the ground and
about thirty feet high. The upper square base of the umbrella
is comparatively modern, and its weight has thrust out the
sides of .mason work. The dagdba is of stone, or at least
coated with stone. In the pansala garden, on the steep hill-
side above the road, are the caves of a very ancient settle-
ment of Buddhists. There are several caves With katari (drip
line cut on the brow of the rock) and on the face of the one
not far above the d&gdba is a Nagara inscription, which has
been deciphered by Mr. Nevill, C.C.S., to be a grant to the
priesthood by Gamini, detailing a pedigree of several genera-
tions. The inscription is probably of the second century before
Christ. The cave commands a charming view across the

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543-546. HATARALIYADDA.

547. GONAWATTE.

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THE HOOK OF CEYLON 40^

Mahaweliganga.- to Pall^kele estate and the more distant Du
ranges of hills." (Sir A. Lawrie.)

The Gonawatte Ferry now conveys us with our motor car
or horses and carriage across the Mahaweliganga to the Tel-
deniya road, and we are soon driving through groves of
cacao or chocolate trees for which the valley of Dumbara is
famous. This fruit has been systematically cultivated in Cacao
Ceylon only in quite recent times, and its introduction here
about five and twenty years ago was due to the necessity of
finding new products to take the place of coflfee. In the year
1878 there were only three hundred acres of cacao in the
whole of Ceylon and the export for that year was little more
than one thousand pounds. Now there are more than thirty-
five thousand acres and the annual export is about seven
million pounds, the industry standing third in importance
among the agricultural pursuits of the colony.

Before the Ceylon planter entered the field in cacao
culture, the world's supply came chiefly from the continents
of Africa and America and it is interesting to know that, as
with other products, notably tea, cardamons and rubber, the
cacao of this country is unrivalled in its quality; this desir-
able consummation of the planter's efforts is probably due
in a greater measure to his skill and scientific methods than
to the special suitability of soil and climate, although these
conditions are very favourable in the districts of Mdtal6 and
Dumbara. Cacao needs good depth of soil, moderate rain-
fall, a temperature such as that of the medium elevations in
Ceylon, and a situation that protects it from wind. These
qualities are found combined in very few districts of Ceylon
and the area suitable for cacao is therefore much more
restricted than for tea and rubber. The natural place of the
cacao plant is in the forest, for it needs the shade of higher
trees. We notice that various trees are planted for this pur-
pose upon the Dumbara estates and among them rubber.
This feature is now one of supreme interest in view of the
value attached to the rubber trees themselves. For many
years the interplanting of cacao with other trees that have
an important commercial value has been a matter of interest-
ing experiment, and has reached a stage pregnant with
valuable experience. It is therefore probable that the cacao
industry in association with other products will Become in-
creasingly profitable. Already about one fourth of the acreage
planted is combined with rubber, while many planters supple-
ment cacao with tea, and some with cocoanuts.

In appearance . the cacao estate bears a striking contrast
to the tea; for whereas the plants of the latter by frequent
pruning are kept down to one monotonous level presenting

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THE BOOK OF CE^YLON

Dttmbara ^o artificial aspect, relieved only by the contour of the rugged
Cacao hills whosc wild and beautiful forests they" have displaced,

the cacao, in itself a beautiful tree, is carefully . nurtured to
its full maturity of fifteen to twenty feet beneath the shade
of trees that lend charm to the naturally graceful appearance
of its drooping branches with their red leaves fading to pink
and reminding one of the autumn tints of a western land-
scape. Particularly beautiful are they when little clusters of
white and pink blossom appear, as is so frequently the case
with tropical trees, not on the young shoots, but on the
trunks and older limbs. The fruit that follows hangs from
the stems and thicker branches in clusters, differing in colour
and size according to the variety of the tree, some being red,
some purple, some yellow and others green, while in shape
they are ovate and in size from six to eight inches in length.
The pods have prominent ridges running lengthways and their
surface is rugged, somewhat resembling the skin of a
crocodile.

The time for harvesting is indicated by the change of
colour which the pods assume as they reach maturity; or by
the sound which is produced by the pods when tapped with
the finger. The latter is regarded by the experienced planter
as the safer criterion; for the colour may occasionally fail
to change before the seeds within have begun to germinate,
and it is the seed which forms the cacao or chocolate. The
operations of gathering and shelling are simple. The pods
must be removed by a clean cut; they are then opened, the
seeds placed in baskets, and fruit walls buried, or in some
cases burnt, and used for manure. There is however a cer-
tain amount of sugary substance adhering to the seeds, and
this must be removed by fermentation. This process is carried
out by placing the seeds in heaps under covers of leaves and
sand, and stirring them occasionally during a few days, after
which they are thoroughly washed and dried in the sun.
Tcideniya Teldcniya is reached at the fifteenth mile. We enter the

village by the road seen in plate 551 and find the rest-house
quite close to the bridge over the river Huluganga. Our
view (Plate 552) is taken from the entrance; the time is
February and the harvest of paddy is being gathered in from
the terraced fields ; the elevated circular ground at the far
end of the field is the threshing floor, and as we sit in the
verandah of the rest-house after dinner in the evening the
sound of the threshing songs reaches our ears and we know
that the buffaloes are treading out the com. The season is
dry and the river bed scarce covered by the meandering
stream, which in rainy weather becomes a raging torrent
overflowing the steep banks now clothed with rich vegetation.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 413

Teldeniya is said to have been a royal hunting ground in DunlNini
the time of King Raja Sinha, who on one occasion in anger Tddtniya
cleared off all the inhabitants for the fault of one, a crop
watchman, who sounded his fearsome instrument the taga-
rapporuwa to scare away animals from the crops, in ignorance
that the king was at the moment engaged in hunting them.
The entire population suffered banishment and the village was
re-peopled by others.

There stands on a hill about a mile to the west of Tel- Bambara-
deniya the most important wihdre in this part of Dumbara, ^*^"
the Bambaragala. The whole institution in fact consists of
two rock temples one above the other. Both are reached
by flights of stone steps (Plate 553). These temples are
interesting not only as curious and ancient places of Buddhist
w^orship, but for their situation, which commands beautiful
views of the country around. Some inscription upon the rocks
in Asoka characters indicate that the site is a very ancient
one; but the present adornment of the caves with the cus-
tomary images and paintings is attributed to Kings Kirti Sri
and Rajadhi Raja Sinha who endowed the wihdre with lands
towards the latter part of the eighteenth century.

Having spent the night at Teldeniya we now set out upon Medama-
a day's trip to Medamahanuwara, Bomur^ and Urugala to '»«'»««'«'^«
visit the site of the ** middle great city '* (which is the literal
meaning of the somewhat cumbersome name Medamahanu-
wara), the place where the last king of Kandy was captured
and to enjoy the mountain air and beautiful landscape. We
are on the ancient highway from Kandy to the famous city
of pilgrimage, Alutnuwara in the Bintenne country, which,
as we have previously observed, is now chiefly noted for game
and as the habitat of a miserable remnant of wild 'men of the
aboriginal race; but its past has been renowned above all
other places in Ceylon. It was the most sacred city and was
closely connected with Buddha in the earliest history of the
country. For 2,500 years has its shrine been worshipped, a
long line of kings being amongst its pilgrims and its bene-
factors. It is only natural then that upon this ancient route
to three royal cities some relics are to be found. We cross
the Huluganga and turn at once to the right when the road
continues in a course parallel with the river for two miles,
when we arrive at the scene depicted by plate 555. Here
the Huluganga joins the Galmaloya at a remarkably beautiful
spot. The road now follows the right bank of the latter river
for about two and a half miles, when we arrive at a bridge
where we must leave our carriage and proceed up the river
by a footpath, if we would visit the site of the palace beneath
the shadow of Medamahanuwara which was the halting place

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414 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Dumbara of the kings of Kandy upon their journeys to Biotenne. The
Medama- remains now to be seen are few and comprise only portions
hanuwara ^£ ^^^ walled terraces which are now in the midst of paddy
fields. There remains however a fine old tamarind tree which
stood in the palace grounds (Plate 556) and in the river below
a pretty dell embowered in foliage where the river forms a
natural bathing place is known as the king's bath. From
information communicated to Mr. J. H. F. Hamilton of the
Ceylon Civil Service by a headman of Urugala who remem-
bered, the palace before it fell into ruin, we gather that " the
plan of the palace buildings was rectangular. They faced the
south, and were approached from that quarter by two broad
stairs comprising seventeen stone steps. At the foot of the
upper flight, and surrounding the palace proper, stood the
straw-thatched lines of the king's guards. The steps con-
ducted to an open space, which formed a compound running
. round the four sides of the main central building between it
and the lines of the guards. From the compound there rose
another and smaller flight of stone steps conducting to the
verandah of the central edifice and its principal entrance. The
three stairs are in a line with one another, and stand immedi-
ately in the front and centre of the southern side of the
palace. A verandah supported by carved wooden pillars en-
compassed the central building, which was the palace proper,
the quarters of the king. The walls of the main building-
were of chiselled stone, and the roof was covered with tiles,
and rose on the four sides to a central ridge running east and
west."

The foundation of the city of Medamahanuwara, all traces
of which are now fast disappearing, is believed to have been
at the end of. the sixteenth century; but it is more than
probable that it was a place of importance in far more ancient
times. It was often a city of refuge during times of internal
dissension, and it assumed this character when the British
took permanent possession of Kandy in 181 5; for it was
hither the last king fled and upon an adjoining hill that he
was captured. The mountain which takes its name from the
city (see plate 566) was strongly fortified, and to this spot
the monarchs of Kandy always retired when in danger of
capture by the earlier European invaders. It is precipitous
and rises to an elevation of 4,300 feet. The ascent may be
made from' the south, and the reward of magnificent scenery
is commensurate with the effort demanded. A large number
of stone cannon balls have, in quite recent times, been found
at the foot of the peak and about its precipitous sides. I
was offered one by a villager upon my visit in the year 1907. ■
Adjoining the palace grounds was the temple once re-

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Oao. •OCNC OF THE CAPTURE OF THE LAST KINO OF KANDY

Ml. THE KEKUNA TREE.

663. THE SPOT ON WHICH THE LAST KINO
Of KANDY WAS CAPTUREa

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

417

nowned as the resting place of the national palladium, the Dombara
tooth of Buddha, before its final removal to Kandy. All that
is now left of it are some carved pillars and a few chiselled
stones used in the construction of the modern building, and
the old wooden door frame which we see in plate 554, now
doing duty as an entrance to a modern and somewhat squalid
wihdre. The monks resident here are courteous and obliging
and will be found ready not only to assist the traveller in
his explorations; but also to provide him with a delicious
kurumba which is usually most acceptable and refreshing
after the exertion of the walk. An old bo tree still survives
and is an object of great veneration.

We now proceed in the direction of the village of Urugala, Urugaia
about £U mile arid a half above the bridge at which we halted
to make bur detour. Here, on the right, is the picturesque
hamlet of Bomur^, the place where the last king of Kandy^
Wickrama Raja Sinha, was captured by the Malay troops
tinder the command of Lieutenant Mylius, on February i8th,
1815. The spot is well known to the villagers of Urugala,
and it is easy to find one who is able to act as guide to it.
It is the nearest hill visible in plate 560, and in plate 564 it
is the hill to the right. There are two paths by which it
may be reached : a long and easy one bearing to the right
above the village of Urugala and a steep and direct one
below the village. If we choose the latter we descend into
the valley at the spot where our photograph (Plate 560) is
taken and make straight for the hill.

The oldest inhabitant of the hamlet of Bomur6, who re- Bomun
joices in the picturesque and musical name of Higgahapitiy^-
gedarappu and lives in the adjoining garden from which he
takes his name, recollects the dwelling house of the Udupiti-
ydgederd family, the then representative of which, Appurala,
Arachchi of Bomur^, gave shelter to the king : he points out
the site of the house which, he says, was square and thatched
with grass but otherwise like a walawwa; he can also point
out the site of the granary and the outbuildings, the path by
which the king came to this garden along a channel which,
coming from Medamahanuwarakanda, irrigates the field
below, on his way from the palace at Medamahanuwara ; the
route through the fields by which the Malay troops arrived
and took up their quarters, and from which they ascended,
firing volleys at the house and afterwards surrounding the
house of Appurala. The old man will tell you that fifteen
years ago there were still areca-nut trees in existence show-
ing the marks of the bullets fired by the Malays, and will
point out two cocoanut trees (Plate 562) and a tamarind tree
(Plate 572) which were growing there at the time of the

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4i8 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

DumBar« king's capture and are still flourishing. That this was the
Bomuri actual placc of the king's capture there can be no doubt.
Marshall in his account of the capture describes it as having
taken place in the house of a subordinate headman. That
headman was Appurala, and the present Korala of the sub-
division in which Urugala and Bomur^ are situated is his
direct descendant, being the grandson of Appurala 's daughter.
The fact of the capture having taken place at the house of
his great-grandfather is well known to the Korala by tradi-
tion and it was verified by Mr. J. H. F. Hamilton in 1888,
who writes : ** In 1815 Sri Wickrama Raja Sinha made for
Galenuwara on the invasion of his country and occupation of
his capital by the British forces. Accompanied by two of
his wives he arrived in the evening at Udupitiy^gedara, the
residence of Appurala, Arachchi of Bomur^, situated near the
foot of Medamahanuwarakanda. Thence he sought to take
refuge in a cave on the mountain side, but being overtaken
by darkness and torrents of rain he missed his way, and
returned in sorry plight to Udupitiy^gedara. Here he passed
the night and the next morning a party of the British having
come up under the guidance of the friendly chief, Ekneligoda,
the three royal personages were seized and stripped of their
jewellery and carried captives into Kandy."
o/Y/T"*^* There is a Sinhalese account of the occurrence purporting

'"^ to be written by an eye witness who acted as interpreter to
the British troops. It has been translated by Mr. T. B.
Pohath and published in Journal No. 47 of the local branch
of the Royal Asiatic Society. If true it goes far to prove
how bitter was the feeling of the Kandyan chiefs themselves
against the tyrant, a circumstance which contributed in no
small degree to the success of the enterprise which the
Governor General, Sir Robert Brownrigg, stated ** could not
with any commonplace prudence have been entered upon,
except with the most credible assurances of the concurring
wishes of the chiefs and people, nor could ever have been
brought to a successful issue without their acquiescence and
aid." The interpreter's account states that the eight hundred
members of the expedition encamped at Teldeniya. The heat
of the camp being great he and the chief Ekneligoda walked
out for some distance followed by a party of Sabaragamuwa
men, when they saw a lad of about twelve running across a
field. He being pursued and overtaken, in great terror ex-
claimed, ** O lords, don't kill me; I will lead you to the hiding
place of the great god " (meaning the king). They were
preceded by the boy, whom Ekneligoda secured by a creeper
tied around his waist. They had not proceeded far when the
boy pointed out an enormous nuga tree saying, '* There,

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56a U RUGA LA

564, PADDY FiELDS AT URUGALA

Seo. THE SLCEPINO WARRIOR.

006. MCDAMAHANUWARA.

067. ROAO MCNE NEAR MAOUQOOA.

866. VIEW FROM MAOUOOOA.

eag. view near maduqoda.

S70. SCENE UPON BOMUrI HCL.

r^,: ■ •"■'

B^BBiHE/ ".''i4. i|% *'^^'

i ■

on. VIEW FROM BOMUR^ HILL.

072. THE OLD TAMARIND TREE ON THE SPOT WMCRE
THE LAST KINO WAS CAPTURED.

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 421

yonder tree is situated above the palace occupied by the Dumbara
great god.*' On approaching the place they saw a couple of J*f^f/;^^
waiting maids who barricaded the door. A sentinel was
seen patrolling the compound lance in hand. He inquired :
** Halloa Ekneligoda, where are you going? '* and just as
the latter replied, **We too have come here,** the spear of
the sentinel hurtled past Ekneligoda. The party then fell
upon the sentinel and bore him forcibly away. Ekneligoda
bade the king unbolt the door which his majesty declined.
The king was then requested to throw out any weapons that
he might have inside; upon which three silver mounted rifles
and a couple of daggers were thrown through an opening;
but his majesty's golden sword was refused. The door was
then burst open with wooden mortars. The Sabaragamuwa
men forced their way into the house, divested the queens of
their jewellery and most of their clothing and cast them out
clad only in rude pieces of cloth. While the two poor queens
were staggering about in grief at the indignities forced upon
them the interpreter bade them not be afraid, but come to
him for protection. They fell upon his shoulders, when he dis-
covered that their ears were shockingly torn and streaming with
blood from the wounds caused by wrenching away the gems
they had worn. He proceeds: ** I got Imbulanwela Arachchi
to fetch some medicinal leaves, and pounding them to a pulp
applied it to staunch the bleeding. A little while after Ekneli-
goda forced the king out of the house and behaved very
insolently towards him, addressing him with such contemp-
tuous phrases as * Come, fellow, let me take you to your
father * (meaning the English). Whereupon the king said,
* If you want to kill me, kill me, or do anything else you
please, but I cannot go on foot.* While Ekneligoda was pre-
paring to tie up the king, saying, * Fetch kirindi creepers to
tie up this fellow and take him like a hog,* I addressed him
saying, * Nilame, you Kandyans have been up to this hour
reverencing the king in such humiliating forms as worshipping
and prostrating yourselves before him and calling him by such
venerable appellations as ** O god,** **0 lord,*' '* O father,**
but as we, from the time of our forefathers, have 1>een the sub-
jects of foreign powers,* we do not owe any allegiance to his
majesty. He is your god, your lord, and your father. Instead
of conveying his majesty respectfully, it is not right on your
part to show him such indignity as you are doing by this
dishonourable treatment.* ** Ekneligoda is said to have per-
sisted in his brutal treatment of the king, vyhen the inter-

* The interpreter, D. V. A. Dias, who is said to have been present and to
have written this account, was a Mudaliyar of the maritime provinces, whose
ancestors had sworn allegiance to the Dutch.

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432 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Dumbara preter wrote and despatched a hurried note to Sir John
The capture D*Oyly, the political officer in charge, to acquaint him with
of the %ng ^^^ indignities to which the king was being subjected. Soon
a British force arrived under Colonels Hardy and Hooke, who
dismissed the offending Kandyans, dismounted their horses,
removed their hats, saluted his. majesty, untied his bonds and
sought to console him. The king and his two queens were
provided with white clothes, placed in palanquins, and escorted
by the two colonels mounted and with drawn swords, attended
by the other officers and fifty mounted orderlies and a company
of English troops, were conducted with every mark of honour
and respect to Sir John D*Oyly*s camp. Sir John accorded
them a courteous reception and having comfortably lodged
them despatched the following letter to the Governor, which
is not quite in accord with the interpreter's account; but has
nothing at variance with the main facts.

** I have the sincerest joy in reporting to your Excellency
t-hat the object of your anxious wishes is accomplished, and
the King of Kandy a captive in our hands. He was sur-
rounded yesterday by the people of Dumbara, in conjunction
with some armed Kandyans sent by the Adigar, in the pre-
cincts of Medamahanuwara, and taken about an hour before
dusk in the house of Udupitiye Arachchi at Galehewatte, a
mile beyond Medamahanuwara, with two of his queens. A
few attendants, after the house was surrounded, made a show
of resistance and wounded two or three men, but fled after
a few shots from the assailants. I went forward with palan-
quins, to meet him at Rambukwella, and have conducted him
to this place with his queens, from whence after rest and
refreshments they will be sent to Kandy under a sufficient
military guarcj. The king's mother and two more of his
queens are at Hanwella, and a detachment will be sent
immediately to conduct him in safety and to secure from
plunder any treasure and valuable which may be found. I
have written olas to be sent to the king's relations and
Nayakkars, informing them of these events, and inviting them
to come without fear."

The dethroned king was deported to Vellore in Southern
India, where he died in 1832.

A few of the details of this story do not admit of clear
proof, particularly those of the indignities suffered by the
king at the hands of his exasperated subjects. It must" how-
ever be borne in mind that the adherents of Eh^lapola, to
whom the credit of capturing the king was mainly due, -were
not likely to behave with gentleness and courtesy towards
the tyrant w^ho had recently murdered their chief's' wife and
children with atrocious barbarity.

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573. MEOAMAHANUWARAKANOA.

574. TERRACED PADDY FIELDS FROM THE OFFICIALS' ByN
AT URUGALA. Digitized by

Xr?Jm5

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 4^5

No apology is I trust needed for the introduction into Dumbara
these pa^es of some particulars of this last phase of the oldest ^J^^^^
dynasty in the world, which through many vicissitudes had
endured for upwards of two thousand years. The traveller
^'ho visits the spot where under the shadow of the noble
tamarind tree, still there, the final scene was enacted, with
the whilom greatness of the Sinhalese nation in mind, will
take a pathetic interest in the humble aspect of the deserted
mountain garden where the longest line of monarchs in the
world came to an end, and Britain entered upon its task of
regenerating the nation that had so long suffered under the
misrule of the tyrant.

Plates 575, 576, 577, and 578 show the villages of Upper
Dumbara in full dress, festooned and bedecked to the full
extent that the modest resources of the inhabitants permit,
as a mark of respect to authority; for the Government agent
is * * on circuit. ' *

At Urugala a neat little bungalow for the use of visiting urugaia
oflicials commands the view, given in plate 574, where we
see a number of little homesteads, marked by clumps of
palms upon the terraced hillsides. The scenery depicted here
and in plates 564 and 517 is characteristic of a large stretch
of country around Urugala. The view of terraced paddy
fields given in plate 517 was taken about a mile beyond
Urugala on the road to Madugoda. It is, I think, the best
view of the kind to be obtained in Ceylon. It should be
borne in mind, however, that whereas the photograph of an
Oriental village scene gains by its reproduction of the form
to the exclusion of the air of squalor of the reality, the
camera is at the greatest disadvantage in an extensive land-
scape, losing its most beautiful effects without any compensa-
tion.

Madugoda, situated on the eastern border of the central Madugoda
province, twelve miles beyond Urugala, possesses no features
of special interest to the traveller unless he should take this
route to Alutnuwara, when it will be convenient to make use
of Madugoda rest-house which we illustrate in plate 558.

In plate 559 the Ratemahatmaya of this division is seen
upon the road, returning from an official visit.

Amongst the curious and primitive operations which ' the The kekum
visitor may notice in the villages of Upper Dumbara' is that
of extracting oil from the kekuna nut. All travellers are
struck with the beautiful appearance of the kekuna tree which
is one of the chief ornaments of the Kandyan forest. Its
leaves under strong light have the curious property of a
glistening white appearance on the upper surface, those that
are most exposed being the most dazzling; while the leaves

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426

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Dunbara

The kekuna
press

Kandyan

dwellings

Mahalyawa

J, 726 feet

Katugastota

1,534 feet

under shade are of an olive green. Thus the distant effect to
the beholder is a mass of mixed green and white foliage; but
on approaching the tree the white leaves appear . to change
and upon gathering them we find that the whiteness has
disappeared. The tree yields an abundance of nuts in appear-
ance like the 'green pod of the walnut. From these the native
extracts oil for lighting purposes. In plate 579 we see the
press by which the oil is obtained. The nuts are wrapped
in an areca leaf and placed in the opening between the two
upright blocks of the press. The woman, as in our illustra-
tion, club in hand, then strikes the wedges which are seen at
the top, causing the blocks to close up and squeeze the nuts,
the oil from which drips into the lower fold of the areca leaf
and from that into the pot or chattie placed upon the ground.
If we enter -one of these modest Kandyan dwellings we
shall discover that it is a quadrangular building having a tiny
courtyard in the middle and an inner verandah on all sides,
>vith several doors from the verandah leading to diminutive
rooms. Of furniture there is practically none, a few mats
serving all requirements, but we notice a little block of wood
about fourteen inches long by five deep, and our inquiry as
to the use of this elicits the following interesting information.
A low-caste man coming to the house is given rice on a leaf
placed upon a fiat tray of plaited palm leaf and he sits on
the ground; but a vellala or high-caste man, however poor
he may be, is offered the block of wood as a seat, and his
rice is placed on a curious little table of plaited palm leaf,
about a foot high and having a somewhat concave surface
like a saucer. Even in this- lowly dwelling the strictest atten-
tion is paid to the rules of etiquette and to the formalities
that surround Eastern hospitality.

While still making Kandy our headquarters an interesting
excursion may be made to Mdtal6, Dambulla and Sigiri.

In the railway system the Mdtal^ line begins at Pera-
deniya Junction, Kandy being served by it. The distances
of the stations given in the following itinerary are therefore
reckoned from Peradeniya Junction.

Mahaiyawa (4m. 71C.). — This station as will be seen from
our map is practically in Kandy itself, being only one mile
from Kandy station.

Katugastota (7m. 25c.). — Katugastota (three and a half
miles north of Kandy) is a picturesque and flourishing suburb
of Kandy situated on the Mahaweliganga at the point where
the Mdtal6 carriage road crosses it by an iron bridge from
which our view (Plate 580) is taken. It is much frequented

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579. THE KEKUNA PRESS.

580. THE MAHAWELIQANQA AT KATUGASTOTA.

Digitized

by Google

681. SCENE NEAR UKUWELLA.

582. ETTAPOLLA AND ASGERIA FRSM^^VWbf?.^^^ ^^

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

429

by visitors who have no time to make more distant excursions. Katugastota
One of the attractions consists of a considerable stud of
elephants belonging to the Kandyan chief Dunuwilla whose
walatvwa is on the bank of the river. They frequently engage
in river sports under the direction of their keepers to the
amusement and delight of passengers who pay a flying visit
to the mountain capital.

Wattegama (iim. 33c.). — Wattegama is famous for its Wattegraiiui
flourishing cacao and tea estates which contribute considerable ^fi^o/eet
freight to the railway, amounting to no less than a thousand
tons of cacao and eight million pounds of tea per annum.
The village is provided with a rest-house containing four bed-
rooms; and it is generally possible to hire a carriage and
pair of horses at the rate of one rupee per mile. Hackeries
are always available. There is a tradition that King Narenda
Sinha fled to this village when attacked by the Dutch and
that a resident of the village named Wattegama Rala was
reluctant to afford him protection, for which offence against
the laws of hospitality the king afterwards punished the
whole village.

Near the station a road connects Wattegama with the
Panwila road. It is the station for the districts of Panwila,
Hunasgiriya, Madulkele, Kelebokka and Knuckles.

Ukuwella (17m. 52c). — Ukuwella is a small village about Ukuweiia
three miles to the south of Mdtal^. The railway station that '»^^^A''
takes its name from the village serves a large number of
important estates including Syston from which our photo-
graphs (Plates 5 and 582) were taken. From the heights
of Syston, famous alike for the high quality of its rubber,
its tea and its magnificent prospects (the word is applicable
both to its rubber undertaking and its commanding views
of the country round), we can see right away to Adam's
Peak, a stretch of country which no photograph could repre-
sent; but which at dawn on a clear morning is most distinct
to the eye. At other times the lovely form of the drifting
mists provides an almost equally charming spectacle. It will
be seen from plate 582 that at Syston we are not far distant
from the two mountains which are so prominent in the distant
landscape from Kandy. That on the left or west side is
Ettapolla and the one to the east is Asgeria.

Ukuwella is the station for Barber's Ceylon Cacao works
which is the only factory of its kind in the colony.

MAtal^ (21m. 9c.). — Mdtale is the terminus of this branch MAtai6
of the broad gauge railway. It is a place of considerable ^ ^208 feet
importance as the chief town of a large planting district con-

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430

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

MAUI6

The rest-house

The baxaar

Scenery of
MdUali

taining nearly a thousand square miles, the most northerly
in which Europeans have opened up estates; it is under an
Assistant Government Agent, and is divided into three sub-
divisions, Mdtal6 South, East and North, each under a Rate-
mahatmaya.

Upon arrival we find a comfortable rest-house fitted with
every convenience for the traveller and well provisioned.
Bath and breakfast are the first consideration, after which
we walk leisurely through the town, which contains one of
the largest purely native bazaars in Ceylon, extending for
almost a mile in one long street shaded by a fine avenue of
rain trees, so called from the circumstance that at night the
leaves fold into a kind of sack in which the moisture con-
denses and at sunrise when the leaves open is discharged in
quite a shower. Here are to be seen the necessaries and
luxuries for the supply of the native community throughout
the large and important planting district of which Mdtal^ is
the centre. All the shops are after the fashion of open stalls,
and the traders, their goods and transactions, from one end
of the street to the other, are open to the gaze of passers-by.
The barber, the tinker, the merchant of gay-coloured cloths,
and the curry-stuff vendor, are all doing a roaring trade.
The mellifluous tones of Ramasamy's voice are unceasing, and
the stranger will not fail to be struck with surprise at the
inordinate amount of talking required by every trifling bar-
gain. Some quaint workshops are to be found here. Ivory
carving, and the elaborate chasing of ceremonial swords,
such as were worn at the Kandyan state ceremonies and are
still part of the official uniform of native chiefs holding office
under the British Government, are still executed here. There
is also a very pretty and dainty industry carried on in the
weaving of grass matting for the covering of couches and chairs.

The scenery has the same characteristics as the Kandyan
district, and is especially beautiful in its wealth and variety
of tropical foliage. The hills rise to an altitude of five thou-
sand feet, and are wooded to the summits, save where clear-
ings have been made for the cultivation of coffee, cacao, and
tea; they exhibit fine specimens of some of the most remark-
able trees in Ceylon, including many iron-wood trees, with
crimson-tipped foliage and delicate flowers. The northern
division of Mdtal^ reaches to Nalanda, the first coaching
stage on the main road to the famous rock temples of Dam-
bulla; so that the large number of visitors who now journey
to Dambulla pass through the heart of this district and see
the fine tea, cacao and rubber estates for which it is famous.
Their total extent is about sixty thousand acres, of which
nearly half is cultivated. The elevation being from 1,200 to

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583. THE KANDY-mAtAL^ ROAD.

584. PEPPER GROVE IN THE mAtALE DISTRICT.

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585. THE RATEMAHATMAYAS ELEPHANTS.

586. FRESCOES AT THE ALUWIHAR^.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

433

4,000 feet, mixed planting is popular; and we find, in M^ui*
addition to tea and cacao, cardamoms, cocoanuts, areca nuts,
annatto, kola, rubber, cinchona, vanilla, pepper, sapan, and
sago. There are thousands of acres of rich forest which
contains much ebony, satinwood, halmilla, and palu.

Of climate, scenery, and products Matale affords great
variety. It has its lowlands, with their cocoanut, vanilla and
cacao groves, and the warm glow of tropical sunshine; hills
of moderate elevation, in some parts cultivated, in others. wild
and forest-clad; lofty mountains, with their cool and in-
vigorating atmosphere so inviting to Europeans; and to the
north it stretches away in spurs which gradually decrease
amidst a vast wilderness of forest and scrub, the haunt of
the elephant, leopard, buffalo and bear. Big game is to be
found in proximity to estates, and is still more plentiful a
day's march to the north. Sambur, barking deer, and pig sport
afford good hunting ; while the leopard, bear, and buffalo are
available as victims for the sportsman's gun. Few planting
districts can boast of sporting grounds at once so good and
so accessible. The subject of sport in Ceylon has been ad-
mirably dealt with by a resident in this district, Mr. Harry
Storey, in his book published this year (1907), entitled
** Hunting and Shooting in Ceylon.** Fort MacDowall^ to
which we have previously referred was built on the hill of
Hikgolla where the present English church stands.

But Mdtal6 has also its antiquarian interest, for here is Aiuwihard
situated the ancient rock temple Aluwihar^, which claims our
attention both as an extremely picturesque spot and one to
which is attached considerable literary interest. We proceed
for two miles past the town upon the Mdtal^-Anurddhdpurd
road, then turn aside to the left following a jungle path till
we come upon a flight of stone steps which lead to what
appears to have been originally a cleft in the rock (Plate 587).
On the left side runs a verandah, a modern tiled erection, which
conceals the entrance to a cavern sacred as the scene of King
Walagambahu's convention of monks in the first century B.C.,
at which were transcribed the sayings of Buddha hitherto pre-
served only by tradition. The object of the convention was,
however, not confined to the mere committal to writing of the
master's words, but had in view also the provision of means of
combating the heresy of the Abhayagiriya fraternity, which, as
we shall explain later, was then causing serious trouble at
Anurddhdpurd.

To the enlightened Buddhist this secluded and compara-
tively unpretending cavern must be of infinitely greater interest
than the Temple of the Tooth or the Thuparama itself.

Protected by the verandah and painted on the exterior of

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434

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

lVUtal«

Dambttllji

Rock tempUs

the rock are some interesting frescoes (Plate 586) with a striking
resemblance in idea as well as in execution to the rude mediaeval
illustrations of the punishments awaiting the impious in a
future state. Such representations are found in most Buddhist
temples.

The traveller who wishes to visit the rock temples of
DambuUa and the ancient rock fortress of Sigiri should either
engage a motor car at Kandy or a waggonette and pair of
horses which can be hired either in Kandy or Mdtal6. The
first stage of the journey reaches Ndlandd fourteen and a half
miles from Mdtal6. Here will be found a good rest-house,
standing in picturesque grounds and embowered in remark-
ably fine tamarind trees. It is neatly furnished and comfort-
able, and will serve as a convenient halting place for refresh-
ment. Upon leaving Ndlandd we shall notice that habitations
become less frequent and dense forest begins to take the place
of cultivated lands. Dambulla is reached at the twenty-ninth
mile, from Mdtal6. The village consists of a double row of
mud huts, which do duty as native shops, and extends for
about two hundred yards at the foot of a solitary mass of
rock which rises from the plain to a height of about five
hundred feet and is about a mile in circumference. Near the
summit is a series of five caverns which in their natural state
were selected as hiding places by King Walagambahu upon
his being driven by the Tamils from his throne at Anurddhd-
purd in the first century B.C. After fifteen years of exile he
regained his throne, and in gratitude for the protection they
had afforded him, transformed them into temples.

These caverns are entered from a ledge near the summit
of a huge boulder of dark gneiss five hundred feet high and
two thousand in length. The ascent is made by a steep but
picturesque stairway cut in the natural rock. At the top of
this rock bursts into view a landscape that apart from the
interest of the temples would well repay a more toilsome
climb. Ranges of mountains stretch away over the Kandyan
province in the dim grey distance ; the rock of Sigiri rises
in solitary grandeur from the dense forest to the east ; and
beneath us lie the rice fields granted by the ancient kings as
the endowment of the temples.

Plate 588 gives some idea of the formation of the ledge
and overhanging rock above the entrances to the caves. It
is, however, difficult to get any photograph owing to the
short distance which it is possible to recede. This ledge
where we see four monks standing extends only to the tree
on the left and ends \fx a precipice. We see the rude en-
trances to the caves on- "the- right. They are, of course,
modern, and* like all attempts at restoration in this period are

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5S7, THE ALUWIHAR^

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sea ROCK TEWPLES AT DAM BULLA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 437

totally out of character with the place. But. the scene pre- Danbulia
sented on entering is imposing, though weird and grotesque. Rock temples
We notice at once a strange mixture of Brahman and Buddhist
images and pictures. Here is Vishnu in wood standing oppo-
site to a colossal recumbent figure of Buddha forty-seven feet
long and carved out of the solid rock. As soon as the eye
gets accustomed to the dim religious light we notice that the
walls are highly ornamented, and we learn from the monks
that some of the frescoes are nearly two thousand years old.

In another compartment called the Maha Vihara there is
a statue of King Walagambahu, and upwards of fifty others
mostly larger than life size, many being images of Buddha,
though Hindu deities are not neglected. This cave is the
largest and grandest of all. It is about one hundred and
sixty by fifty feet, and at the entrance twenty-three feet high,
the roof sloping gradually down as we go further into the
chamber till at the back its height is but four feet. The
student who is interested in the relation between Buddhism
and Hinduism will remark a very curious blending of the
symbols of both in the frescoes with which the walls and
ceilings are literally covered. Not less noticeable are many
historical scenes, among them the famous combat between
King Dutthagamini and the Tamil prince Elara, to which we
shall again refer later. There are besides many quaint repre-
sentations of earlier events, amongst which the most curious
is perhaps the landing of the Sinhalese under Prince Wijayo
B.C. 543. The size of the fish who are popping up their heads
above the waves and menacing the ships is that affected by
all the ancient hydrographers.

The other two chambers are of the same shape though
smaller, and are furnished with a plentiful supply of objects
of worship, from the usual cyclopean monolithic Buddhas to
smaller images of the Hindu deities.

Few visitors enter these caverns without being greatly
impressed by the strange and eerie feeling which seems to
increase as the eyes get more accustomed to the dimness,
while some are unable to rid themselves of the haunting
memory of the uncanny vision.

There are many interesting inscriptions on the bare face
of the rock, one of which is an ordinance that when absolute
grants of land are made such dispositions shall not be re-
corded on palm leaves, which are liable to be destroyed, but
shall be engraved upon plates of copper, to be imperishable
through all ages. This ordinance is attributed to the great
Parakrama, and it sometimes happens even now that a copper
title-deed figures in the law courts of Colombo as evidence in
disputed cases of ownership.

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438

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

5l^ri

Ka^apa

Actors in
the tragedy

Dhatu Sen

At Dambulla there is a spacious and comfortable rest-
house where we shall find it convenient to put up for the
night and equip ourselves with information about Sigiri,
whither we should proceed at dawn. There is excellent accom-
modation for the traveller at the rest-house quite near the rock.

The historic interest which attaches to this lonely crag
centres in the story of the parricide King Kasyapa, who, after
depriving his father Dhatu Sen of his throne and life, sought
security by converting this rock into an impregnable fortress.
Although it has been said that Sigiri was a stronghold in
prehistoric times, we have no account of it earlier than the
time of Kasyapa, the particulars of whose reign related in
the Mahawansa are considered specially reliable as being
written by the Buddhist monk Mahanamo, an eye witness of
the troublous times that he describes. It is, moreover, the only
contemporary account of Sigiri that has come to light.

We cannot, therefore, more effectually stimulate our
interest in this remarkable fortress than by recounting the
story of outrage and cruelty which led to its adoption as a
royal residence and its adaptation as a tower of defence.
The actors in this tragedy, so thoroughly illustrative of the
fiendish cruelty native to the Sinhalese princes of that age,
were King Dhatu Sen, who ascended the throne a.d. 463 ; his
two sons Kasyapa and Moggallana; his only daughter; his
uncle and our chronicler Mahanamo ; and his nephew who was
his commander-in-chief.

Dhatu Sen, who was a scion of the line royal, had during
his youth lived in retirement in consequence of the supremacy
of the Tamil usurpers during the period from a d. 434 to a.d.
459. Educated by Mahanamo he entered the priesthood, but
upon reaching man's estate the oppression of the alien rulers,
their devastation of the temples, and the prospect of a mixed
and hybrid race, called him from a life of contemplation.
Believing that his country was in danger of being lost for
ever to the Sinhalese, he resolved upon a desperate effort to
recover the throne. In this he eventually succeeded, and after
the complete extermination of the invaders he applied himself
to re-establish peace throughout the island and to restore the
old religion to its former pre-eminence. Those of the nobles
who had during the usurpation formed alliances with the
Tamils -e degraded to the position of serfs on their own
land, but ah who had remained steadfast in their devotion to
their country were called to honour, and more especially the
companions of his adversities.

He now ^^nnii**^ i,'-,^^|f ^^g vigorously to the arts of peace
as he had -^^^cd hospitals for the halt

and si'^' *^servoirs in districts

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

439

that had long been neglected, founded many new monasteries,
restored and re-decorated all the chief religious edifices,
devoting his private treasures and his large store of jewels
to the re-adornment of statues that had been desecrated and
despoiled. ** Who can describe in detail all the good deeds
that he has done? '* says the Mahawansa.

We learn, however, that these great virtues were counter-
balanced to some extent by a disposition to cruel revenge.
We are told that having an only daughter, dear to him as his
own life, he gave her in marriage to the commander-in-chief of
his army. Ihe marriage was not happy, and it soon reached
the king's ears that his daughter had been ignominiously and
undeservedly flogged by her husband. Dhatu Sen thereupon
ordered the culprit's mother to be stripped and put to death
with great cruelty. But this barbarous act soon brought its
retribution. The son-in-law was now the aggrieved person
and at once conspired to dethrone the king. This he accom-
plished by the corruption of Kasyapa. The people were
gained over and the king seized and cast into chains. In vain
Moggallana endeavoured to oppose his brother's treachery;
he could only seek refuge in flight to India. The next move
of the outraged son-in-law was to persuade Kasyapa that his
father had hidden his treasures with intent to bestow them
on Moggallana. Kasyapa thereupon sent messengers to his
father who was in prison to demand of him where the trea-
sures were concealed. Dhatu Sen saw in this a plot against
his life, and resigning himself to his fate said : ** It is as
well that I should die after that I have seen my old friend
Mahanamo once more and washed myself in the waters of
Kalawewa. "* He then told the messengers that if Kasyapa
would allow him to be taken to Kalawewa he could point out
his treasures. Kasyapa, delighted at the prospect, sent the
messengers back to his father with a chariot for his convey-
ance to Kalawewa. While on the journey the ill-fated king
ate rice with the charioteer, who showed great compassion
for him.

Upon arriving at Kalawewa he derived great solace from
the interview with his old friend Mahanamo. He bathed in
the great reservoir and drank of its waters; then pointing to
his friend Mahanamo and to the waters around turned to his
guards and said : ** These are all the treasures that I " ^ess. "
When they heard these words they were filled wif\ wrath and
immediately conveyed him back to his son Kasyapa who,
handing him over to the chief of the army, ordered his execu-
tion. He was now doomed to suffer the worst death that

5ifflri

Dhatu Sen's

cruelty

The revenge

* An immense artificial lake for irrigation and the greatest
monarch.

^'■k of this

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440

XHE BOOK OF CEYLON

5l8irl

The

parricide
retires to
Sigiri

The route

from

Dambulla

The remains

his arch-enemy gould devise. After heaping insults. upon him
this fiend stripped ,Jiim naked, bound him in chains, and
walled up the entrance tb his prison.

Kasyapa, having thus rendered himself unpopular by- his
crimes, and dreading an attack. from bis brother Moggallana,
dared no longer to. live openly in Anuradhdpurd and retired
to Sigiri. The ^ perpendicular sides. of this rock made it im-
possible to climb, but' Kasyapa by a clever device carried a
spiral gallery around it gradually rising from base to summit.
He next, surrounded the rock with a, rampart of great strength
within which he collected all. his wealth and treasure and set
guards over them. He then . raised a splendid palace and
other buildings needful for the seat of government. Here he
lived in great luxury. But in spite of all distractions he soon
began to repent of the. crinies which* had placed him on the
throne, and in true Buddhist, fashion endeavoured to escape
the meed of unfavourable transmigration by acts of merit
such as the building of monasteries and the granting of lands
for the support of the priesthood. Not less oppressive than
the dread of his next life was ^the fear of retribution at the
hands of his brother Moggallana, who at length invaded the
island at the head of an overwhelming force. The two armies
encountered each other ** like two seas that had burst their
bounds,** and in the great battle that ensued Kasyapa, on
coming to a deep marsh, caused his elephant to turn back
so that he might advance by another direction. His followers,
interpreting this as a sign of flight, broke in headlong rout,
and Kasyapa committed suicide on the field.

Having thus prepared ourselves with its history, we now
proceed to the rock itself and the remains that are still extant.
At daybreak we drivcsi^r miles to Inamalawa, where we branch
off through the jungle on foot or on horseback, the path being
rough for springs • although practicable for a bullock-cart.
The path is very picturesque, and the jungle gay with birds
of brightest plumage and alive with wild animals. Troops of
monkeys are frequently seen and jackals here and there put
in an appearance.

At length after about six miles of this path we emerge
into the open and of a sudden Sigiri appears rising abruptly
from the plain. An artificial lake, formed under the south
side of the rock, helps to form a striking picture (Plate 589).
There are traces of massive stone walls enclosing about fifty
^cres round' the base of the rock and forming the first line
of fortification, tipon a nearer approach we observe that
terraces werei forno^d on .the slopes which lead to the per-
pendiculai? side of . the rock ; they are faced with stone and
were doubtless constructed for purposes of defence. Here and

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589. SIGIRI.

sea CARVED BOULDERS AT 8)QtRL

Oei. eNTRANCE TO THE GALLERY.

an. ' WITHIN THE OALLERY.

093. VIEW SHOWING THE PRESENT MEANS OF ASCENT.

OO*. ASCENDING TO THE FRESCOES BY THE WIRE LADdi

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

443

there huge boulders have been carved into foundations for sigin
halls, and into luxurious baths (Plate 590).*

We have read in the story of Kasyapa of the spiral galleries ThegaiUrUs
which were carried to the summit of the rock. We now see
in our illustrations parts of their remains. Plates 591, 592 and
594 show the entrance to the gallery, the wall which enclosed
it, and an inside view. The stairway from the terraces to
the g^allery has quite disappeared and the latter is now reached
by an easy climb aided by the handrail and ladder which have
been affixed.

The wall which will be noticed is about nine feet high, and
was built on the edge of the terrace, so that persons within
the gallery would have a sense of perfect safety, and, in fact,
would be secure from the missile of any enemy. This wall is
coated with chunam, a very hard cement, susceptible of a
polish equal to that of marble, and it retains its smooth sur-
face to this day although it has been exposed to the monsoons
of fifteen centuries.

Forty-five feet above the gallery illustrated by plates 591 The frescoes
and 592 there is a sort of pocket or shallow cave with some
remarkable frescoes on its walls. They represent groups of
females, probably queens and their attendants, and the
colouring is still marvellously fresh and bright. This place
is accessible only by means of a ladder hung on stays driven
into the face of the rock, but the figures and the colouring
can be seen very clearly by means of a field glass from the
terraces below.

We cannot here give all the interesting details of archi-
tectural remains that have been discovered by the explorations
of the Archaeological Commissioner of the Ceylon Government.
The traveller will find some astonishing remains laid bare by
recent excavation, and if he will take the trouble to ascend
to the top of the rock by the aid of the protective handrails
now provided he will see the remains of spacious apartments,
flights of stairs in quartz, a carved throne, courtyards, pas-
sages and innumerable other signs of a remarkably luxurious
retreat.

A visit to Sigiri results in the very agreeable feeling that
we have seen one of the most fascinating and romantic spots
that the old-world scenes of any country can afford. The
warm red tones of its cliffs, the beautifully worked quartz stairs
of its ruined galleries and terraces, the picturesque lay of its
massive ruins, the grandeur of the forest which surrounds it,
and the waters of its lake, with the dark and mysterious
reflections amidst the lotus leaves that o'erspread the surface,
combine to form an impression that will never fade from the
memory.

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444

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line We now resume the main line itinerary which we left at
Peradeniya Junction in order to visit Kandy and the places
situated on the Mdtal^ branch. The main line at Peradeniya
Junction turns abruptly to the south and passes through the
very heart of the g'reatest tea districts of this celebrated tea-
growing, country. First we traverse a fertile and beautiful
valley where rice fields form a charming foreground to hills
that are clothed with palms in great variety and . luxuriance.
At the eighth mile from Peradeniya Junction we reach the
town of Gampola, for a time the seat of Sinhalese power.

Qanpola

1,572 fett

A ncicnt
remains

interesting
deed of gift

Gampola (78m. 25c.). — As the last of the native capitals of
Ceylon before the removal of the moribund dynasty to Cotta
in 1410, Gampola can claim to be a place of considerable
interest. The city was founded in the year 1347 by King
Bhuwaneka Bahu IV., who reigned there for nine years.
Remains of that period are still to be seen at the Niyangam-
paya wthdrey about one mile from Gampola station and adjoin-
ing Mariawatte tea estate. This temple which was built by
Bhuwaneka Bahu upwards of five centuries ago and restored
by the last king of Kandy in the year 1804 still contains some
of the original work, the stone carving of the basement being
a good example of the fourteenth century work. But Gampola
must have been a place of note in still earlier times ; for the
ancient Sinhalese chronicle Mahawansa records that King
Wijaya Bahu visited it in the eleventh century. King Wikrama
Raja Sinha in the year 1804 granted a sannas or deed engraved
upon copper to this temple, bestowing lahds upon it and ending
in the following terms, detailing the punishments that will wait
upon the sacrilegious thief : —

** His Majesty has been pleased to grant the same as if
uttered by the mouth of the goddess Saraswati, and he made
the gift at a happy time, sitting in a golden throne in the form
of Sakkraya at the city of Senkanda Sailabidhana Siriward-
hanapura, which abounds with all riches ; and this sannas^ in
accordance with the order and command of his Majesty, has
been granted on Monday, the second day of the increasing
moon of the month Medindina, in the year of Saka 1726, called
Raktaksa. He who shall cut, break or take even a blade of
grass or any wood or fruit or anything belonging to Buddha
shall be born as a pretayOy but anyone who shall make any
offerings shall enjoy felicity in the Divyalokas and enter into
Nirvana. He who shall take by force anything that belongs
to Buddha, with intent to appropriate to himself or give it to
others, shall become a worm in ordure for a period of sixty
thousand years."

It is curious that, notwithstanding the awful nature of the

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595. GAMPOLA.

596. ROAD SCENE AT GAMPOLA

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597. THE PEACOCK HILL FROM GAMPOLA.

598. GAMPOLA RAILWAY STATIO|^,t,zed by VjUUQ IC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 447

penalty, in the year 1907 the golden image of Buddha, worth Main Line
;^2,ooo, was stolen from this wihdre^ The golden image is Gampoia
still missing, and the thief has escaped British justice, which
is a matter of very trifling moment in comparison with the
sixty thousand years of puni^ment that are in store for him.

There is a noteworthy dewdle dedicated to Kataragama, the
god of war, and known as the Wallahagoda dewdlCy about two
miles from Gampoia station. Its lands are said to have been
bestowed on it by King Pdrdkrdma Bahu in the twelfth cen-
tury. Its chief interest to the antiquarian is the presence in
its precincts of one of the stone lions from the entrance of the
royal palace. It is a gajasinha or elephant lion having a
proboscis.

The visitor to Gampoia will find the local accommodation Local
good both at the railway station and the rest-house which is ''^'^^'«'"^*'«'''>«
quite near to it. Carriages, with single horse or a pair, can
be hired at moderate rates. Jinrickshaws are also procurable.

A large number of tea estates are served by the Gampoia
station, from which upwards of six thousand tons of tea are
despatched annually. To the east of the railway stretch some
districts that were the first to be stripped of their virgin forest
by the European. To the west lies the picturesque district of Doiosbage
Dolosbage, which lends itself admirably to pictorial treatment ;
but with so many claiming attention some must of necessity
be left with merely passing reference. The old town of Gam-
poia is also the railway terminus for the beautiful districts
of Pussellawa and Rambodd^, through which an excellent Pusuiiawaand
macadamised road passes, and over the heights of Nuwara ^^^^^^^^
Eliya, to descend again amongst the rolling paianas and deep
glens of the Uva country, which we shall see later. This road
scales the mountain slopes by zig-zag cuttings, now on the
mountain side, now passing through narrow defiles, and
onwards upon the verge of deep abysses, beautiful everywhere,
in many parts enchanting, and in one, the pass above Ram-
bodd^, magnificent.

Ulapane (82m. 75c.). — Ulapane is a village among tea uupane
estates, with no special attractions for the visitor. The name iM^fett
is said to be derived from a Sinhalese word meaning * * the
scene of the impalement,** from the circumstance that the
owner of the village in the reign of Raja Sinha I. was impaled
for high treason. There is also a tradition that a man of this
village who first traced the remarkable work of irrigation
known as the Raja Ela (the king*s stream) which waters
the paddy fields of the district for twelve miles, after being
honoured by the king and rewarded for his skill, fell into
disgrace and was also impaled.

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448

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line Nawalapitiya (87m. 29C.). — At Nawalapitiya a powerful

^Nawaiapitiya engine is placed in the rear of the train to assist in conveying
1,913 feet jj. yp ^j^^ steep gradients that begin here and continue until we

reach the summit tunnel at an elevation of 6,225 ^^^^- Nawala-
pitiya is a busy little town of about 2,500 inhabitants. Its
native bazaars serve a large planting area where the Tamil
cooly from southern India is chiefly employed. The general
characteristics of the place are therefore something like those
we have met with at Mdtal^.

Instead of a rest-house the traveller will find here quite
close to the station a modest but comfortable hostelry called
the Central Hotel. .

There is nothing in Nawalapitiya to attract the visitor, but
upon leaving it for the highlands there is much to see and the
eye must be constantly on the alert.

We are now about to pass through the .Tea Estates of
Amhagamuwa Xmh2ig2im\xv/2i^ the wcttcst planting- district in Ceylon, having
an annual rainfall of about 200 inches, or eight times that of
London. We ascend in snake-like windings of every possible
shape, now along the almost precipitous -rpck trimly cut like
the scarp of a fortress, now right through masses of solid
gneiss, and out into the open eminence agam,the scene chang-
ing with every curve. At one point we come upon a sight
especially interesting, but which will nevertheless elude all but
the expectant traveller — the entrance and exit of the Hog's-
back Tunnel. As we approach, the. mountain is cleft by a
deep narrow ravine, which is in reality a watercourse, down
whose steeps rushes a torrent towards the river in the valley
below.. Over this the train passes, affording a grand spectacle
when- the water, in the south-west monsoon, dashes with resist-
less force amongst the boulders and broken crags of the chasm,
above which the train seems momentarily suspended. The
vision lasts but a few seconds, when the tunnel heightens the
keen sense of wonderment with its contrast of absolute dark-
ness. In a few moments more the scene seems to reappear as
the mountain side is cleft again, and an exactly similar ravine
is bridged, followed by the darkness of a second tunnel. After
obtaining a view of the Galboda Cliff on the left we arrive at
Galboda station.

Hog's-back
Tunnel

Qalboda

2,58t feet

Galboda "{94m. 38c.). — At Galboda the downward .train
passes us for Colombo. Upon leaving this station we still
ascend in ever-winding course, and as we pass through Black-
water and Weweltalawa estates a grand open view is afforded
extending over the low country right away to the famous
Kelani Valley. Even Colombo, one hundred miles away, is
said to be discernible from this point on a clear day.

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eoa A RUSH FOR SEATS.

L. ..

k m

'l''\l)

II' m

604-607. ROAD SCENES, NAWALAPITIYA TO HATTON.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

451

Watawala (loom. 13c.). — VVatawala station which serves
a large group of tea estates is now passed and the Dickoya w«t«w«ta
district with its thirty thousand acres of tea bushes next •^.-^^A''
appears, the railway running parallel to the road on the
opposite side of the valley and the Mahawelli-ganga flowing
between.

RozELLB (103m, 63c.). — Rozelle is another of the small Rozeiie
stations which exist for the convenience of the tea estates that ^.^^-A^'
surround them. The village is small and unattractive to the
visitor.

This railway journey into the tea districts is worth making Scenes on the
for its own sake, but even the excitement of an occasional sus- ^^*^^^y
pension 'twixt earth and sky over a steep ravine, the wonderful
dissolving views of mountain, forest, and stream, and the rapid
changes of climate, do not exhaust all the points of interest on
this remarkable line. The European traveller will notice with
curious interest the gangs of coolies — men, women, and chil-
dren— some arriving from Southern India, each carrying the
sum of his worldly goods, some departing from the coast to
return to their native land, others merely leaving one district
for another, but all enjoying the freedom of unrestrained con-
versation in their very limited vocabulary, the subject of wages
and food providing the chief topics and those of paramount
concern. Other gangs are noticed engaged in their daily task
of plucking or pruning the hardy little tea bushes on the various
estates. Nor should we pass over the pretty . feature of the
numerous bungalows, each situated upon some charming knoll
and surrounded by a veritable little paradise. The neat tea
factories, too, dotted here and there in the landscape cannot .but
be noticed, and give the clue to the raison d'etre of the railway.

Hatton (io8m. i6c.). — Hatton is a great centre of tea dis- Hatton
tricts situated in Dickoya, the railway serving also the tea ^.'^'M
estates of Maskeliya and Bogawantalawa, which lie farther to
the south. It is of special interest to the tourist as the nearest
point of the railway to Adam*s Peak, a mountain of great
historical interest, which has allured to its heights millions of
the human race, the ascent of which should be accomplished by
all travellers who are possessed of the necessary energy and
physique for the task. There is a first-class hostelry at Hatton, Local
the Adam's Peak Hotel, where the traveller can spend the night
and make his arrangements for the expedition. Carriages can
be obtained, and the manager of the hotel makes all arrange-
ments for the visitor. Many tourists make their plans for
arriving at the peak just before dawn, doing the steep part of
the climb by torchlight or by moonlight if the occasion happens

accommodation

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452

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Peak

Main Line to be favourable; but those who wish to avoid travelling in the
Adam's night can. arrange to arrive at sunset, taking up camping equip-
ment for the night and sleeping on the peak. The distance
from Hatton as the crow flies is but twelve miles, but the roads
and paths by which we must trayel extend to twenty-two,
fourteen of which we can drive and the remaining eight being^
accomplished on foot. Only the last three miles present any-
thing of the nature of mountain climbing, and they are easy
compared to the ascent by the south-western route from Ratna-
pura, which, owing to its supposed greater merit, is the one
commonly chosen by pilgrims. The tourist, however, usually
proceeds from Hatton by the north-eastern route. The drive
takes us first through lower Dickoya to Norwood bridge, which
is reached at the sixth mile ; we then cross and turn sharply to
the right, passing into the valley of Maskeliya and reaching
Laxapana at the fourteenth mile, where we leave our carriage
at the Laxapana Hotel and prepare for the climb.

Some tourists however are sufficiently adventurous to make
the ascent by the pilgrim's path from the Ratnapura side, or
to ascend on the one side and descend on the other. I will
therefore here introduce-a short account of the .mountain routes
from an earlier work of my own,* which makes reference to
both.

There is no object more familiar to the inhabitants of Ceylon,
or one that makes a deeper impression upon the multitudes who
visit her shores, than the lofty cone which bears the name of
our. first parent; and it may be said without fear of contradic-
tion that among all the mountains in the world invested by
tradition with superstitious veneration none has stirred the
emotions of so many of our fellow-subjects as Adam's Peak.
The origin of. its sacred character, involved at once as it is in
the legendary history of several ancient religions, has been the
subject of considerable research and greater ^conjecture.

There is no doubt that the legends take their rise in the
mark on the summit resembling the impress of .a gigantic
human foot. This the Buddhists devoutly worship as the
sacred footprint of Gautama, while the Hindoos equally claim
it as that of Siva, and the Mahommedans, borrowing their
history from the Jews, as that of Adam. Thus do the adherents
of three great religions, to the number of 800,000,000 of our
fellow-creatures, vie with one another in veneration of the
lonely Peak. As in pilgrim bands they ascend the mighty cone
their hearts are moved and they regard its rugged paths as
steps unto Heaven. From all parts of Asia thousands annually
flock up the steep and rocky track, enduring privation and

* Golden Tips : a description of Ceylon and its great Tea Industry, by
Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S. (Cassell & Co.).

Sacred
character
of the
mouniain

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612. ADAM'S PEAK.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 455

hardship for the good of their souls. Some of the very old Main Line
people of. both sexes are borne aloft upon the shoulders of their Adam**
stalwart sons, others struggle upwards unaided, until, fainting ^^'^
by the way, they are considerately carried with all haste in
their swooning condition to the summit and forced into an
attitude of worship at the shrine to secure the full benefits of
their pilgrimage before death should supervene; others never
reach the top at all, but perish from cold and fatigue ; and there
have been many instances of pilgrims losing their lives by
being blown over precipices or falling from giddiness induced
by a thoughtless retrospect when surmounting especially dan-
gerous cliffs.

The- European traveller, although uninfluenced by any super-
stition, is nevertheless affected by the awe-inspiring prospect
that meets his gaze when he has reached the summit. There
are many mountains of greater height from whose lofty peaks
the eye can scan vast stretches of eternal snow, but none can
unfold a scene where Nature asserts herself with such im-
pressive effect as here.

Before describing the chief features of the summit and the
curious shadow phenomenon, some details of the ascent may be
of intierest. We will first describe the pilgrim's route.

A start is made from Ratnapiira, the City of Gems, in whose J^ ''^«'«
vicinity are found most of the sapphires and catseyes of Ceylon; j^ultapura
The heat of this place is great when the sun is abroad, and
renders the walk through several miles of jungle land very
trying, but the path lies through such lovely vegetation that
the. orchids, pitcher-plants, and other equally beautiful flowers
turn one's mind from the discomforts of the way, which to the
European traveller, more heavily handicapped than the native
by clothing, are nevertheless very real. After about eight
miles we begin to reach a cooler atmosphere, and the scene
changes to a landscape of ravines and crags hung with giant
creepers in festoons spread from tree to tree and rock to rock.
Then we begin to toil up the remaining ten miles of the rocky
pilgrimage over gnarled and interlaced roots and relentless
obstacles innumerable, at one moment on the edge of a steep
abyss, at another traversing narrow passes o'erhung with the
boughs of forest trees. At length we reach Ouda Pawanella,
a hamlet at the foot of a huge beetling cliff. As we climb on
we pass near the edge of a dizzy precipice about eight hundred
feet in depth, called -Nilihela, after a maiden who incautiously
fell over it and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. Her
spirit still haunts the spot, and her voice is heard in the echo
that answers to ours. Every open eminence for the rest of the
way discloses a prospect both enchanting and magnificent. A
toilsome mile farther brings us to Diyabetma, where the Peak

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456

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

IVUIn Line
Adam '5
Ptak

Tfu chains

History of
the chaifis

now comes into view, and the reverential ejaculation of the
pilgrims, *' Saadu ! '* ** Saadu ! *' breaks the stillness of the
dense forest as the goal of their aspirations is revealed to their
sight.

Here is a dilapidated bungalow which is now useless to the
traveller, being choked up with a rank growth of vegetation.
Probably one of the last ' Europeans who made use of it was
Mr. Knighton, who described it as a damp, uncomfortable
cell, where all attempt to sleep was vain owing to the roar of
elephants and the scream of leopards and monkeys, which alone
w-ere sufficient to make night hideous, to say nothing of the
possibility of a visit from such unwelcome guests.

Next we come to" a romantic bathing-pool, where the
Sitaganga, a sacred mountain stream, the subject of a great
deal of legendary superstition, provides the pilgrims with holy
water for the obligatory purification before they attempt to
ascend the precipitous rocks which for the rest of the way now
demand the utmost intrepidity. •

The most appalling obstacle is reached when the traveller,
having climbed to the summit of a precipice, is met by a cliff
whose crest literally overhangs the spot upon which he stands.
To scale this wall of rock with its projecting cornice without
artificial aids would be utterly impossible. An iron ladder,
however, has been affixed to the perpendicular wall, and at the
top the defiant projection has to be overcome by means of links
let into the rock and by the aid of chains attached to the sloping
slabs of granite which crown the cliff. The stoutest heart
cannot but experience moments of anxiety as this point is
reached, and the feet leave the firm ladder to be inserted in the
rusty, ill-shaped links. There is nothing between us and the
yawning abyss save the links, which grate and sway as, with
every nerve overstrained, we haul ourselves over the next thirty
yards of bare and sloping rock. So great is the peril, that the
slightest hesitation or the merest glance to right or left might
unsteady the nerves and end in a fatal catastrophe.

The history of these rusty chains, with their shapeless links
of varying size bearing the unmistakable impress of antiquity,
is involved in myth and mystery. The chain near the top is
said to have been made by Adam himself, who is believed by all
true followers of the Prophet to have been hurled from the
seventh heaven of Paradise upon this Peak, where he remained
standing on one foot until years of penitence and suffering had
expiated his offence. His partner Eve is believed to have fallen
near Mecca, and after being separated from her husband for
two hundred years, Adam, with the assistance of the angel
Gabriel, fetched her to Ceylon as being in his opinion the best
substitute for Paradise.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

457

Ashreef, a Persian poet, tells us that we owe the fixing of Main Line
the chains to Alexander the Great, who ** voyaged to Ceylon Adam'*
about B.C. 330, and there devised means whereby -he and his ^^^
friends might ascend the mountain of Serendib, fixing thereto
chains with rings and nails and rivets made of iron and brass,
so that travellers, by their assistance, may be enabled to climb
the mountain, and obtain glory by finding the sepulchre of
Adam, on whom be the blessing of Allah ! **

Whatever value may be set upon these statements as to the
origin of the chains, it is certain that they existed at a very
early period. Marco Polo, who visited Ceylon in the thirteenth
century, thus refers to them: ** In this island there is a very
high mountain, so rocky and precipitous that the ascent to the
top is impracticable except by the assistance of iron chains
employed for that purpose.'* How they were affixed is a
mystery impossible of solution, and I certainly have no theory
to advance.

The summit is reached by climbing an almost perpendicular chain 0/
precipice by the aid of a chain called the ** chain of the creed,'* '**<^'^"^
on each link of which the weary pilgrims utter some expression
of devotion as they attain to the miniature plateau where their
longing hearts are satisfied before the Sri-pada or sacred
footprint.

The ascent to the Peak from the north-eastern side is, as we
have said, easier than the one described above, and, although
it is generally considered less meritorious from the pilgrim's
point of view, many forego the benefits to be derived from the
more arduous climb in the belief that the additional peril,
though by no means supererogatory, is not essential to their
sacred duty.

The European traveller is of course quite free in his choice.
If he does not care to take his life in his hands up the south-
western route, he may journey from Hatton into the Maskeliya
district and ascend on this side.

We advance through the forest to Oosamalle, the final
ascent to which is made by means of steps cut in the precipitous
rocks. This is the last place where water is procurable before
the summit is reached. On either side of the ledge will be
noticed ru'de huts, where pilgrims are wont to refresh them-
selves prior to the task that now awaits them. The beautiful
flowering nelu is seen in the foreground, and the aged rhodo-
dendrons spread their haggard branches above the dilapidated
roofing of the hovels.

It will be noticed that Oosamalle lies at the very foot of the
actual cone, and here the ascent in real earnest begins. It is
about three miles to the summit, and as the difficulties of the
climb on this side may to some extent be realised from an

Ascent from
•liya

Masked

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Adam's
Peak

A night on
the summit

Main Line examination of the picture, I shall spare the reader any further
description, only adding that similar chains of mysterious origin
are found suspended over every cliff that presents any great
danger, for the assistance of the pilgrims by this route also.

The last glimmer of light was passing away as I clambered
into the open space, enclosed within a wall of rock, within
which lies the sacred footprint beneath a picturesque little
canopy. I had the good fortune to make the ascent in the
genial company of a gentleman whose estate lies at the foot of
the mountain, and without whose valuable acquaintance with
the vernacular, which he placed at my service, my camera at
least would never have reached the top. Our retinue of coolies,
amongst whom were distributed the necessary provisions and
camping paraphernalia for the night, became almost mutinous,
complaining bitterly of their burden, and asserting the impossi-
bility of proceeding up the difficult steeps encumbered with its
weight. The sorest grievance was the forty pounds of my
camera box, which we were determined should not fall behind,
for the sole object of the journey was to photograph the re-
markable shadow of the Peak as seen in our picture. At length,
however, all reached the top in safety, and we immediately set
to work with such preparations for the comfort of the inner and
outer man as are possible where there is literally no protection
from the wind that bites the cheek and chills the bones. How
the poor and thinly clad coolies bear the exposure I cannot
understand, for with the thickest winter clothing and wrapped
in woollen rugs, the cold seemed to us intense. Fires were
soon kindled, and the cook who accompanied us served with
marvellous alacrity a dinner that would have done credit to a
well-appointed kitchen.

The first hours of night were passed in the pleasant talk
which is always a natural outcome of excellent toddy accom-
panied by the fragrant weed. At length Nature's sw^eet
restorer came, and, covered in our wraps, we slept till the
buzz of voices told of the approach of dawn. Then came the
moments of suspense. Would the atmospheric conditions,

The shadow without which the shadow is impossible, present themselves?
The first faint beams revealed the fleecy shroud of mist covering
the world below, and, as clearer grew the welling light, up rose
the mighty shadow. Like a distant pyramid it stood for many
seconds ; then nearer and nearer, ever increasing in size and
distinctness as the rays of light broadened over the horizon, it
advanced towards us like a veil, through which the distant
mountain forests and plains were distinctly visible, till at
length it seemed to merge in its mighty parent, and instantly
vanished.

It has been stated that as the shadow approaches th^ moun-

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<
X

X
H

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614. DEVON FALLS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

461

tain its size diminishes ; but this is the opposite of what I saw Main Line
and the camera recorded. Accounts of this phenomenon are,
however, so varying, that doubtless its characteristics differ
with the changes of temperature, the density of the vapours,
and the direction of the air-currents.

As the shadow departed the mists began to float upwards,
revealing a landscape which, by all who have seen it, is unani-
mously admitted to be amongst the grandest in the world.
** No other mountain,'* wrote Sir Emerson Tennent, ** presents
the same unobstructed view over land and sea. Around it to
the north and east the traveller looks down on the zone of lofty
hills that encircle the Kandyan kingdom, whilst to the west-
ward the eye is carried far over undulated plains, threaded by
rivers like cords of silver, till in the purple distance the glitter
of the sunbeams on the sea marks the line of the Indian Ocean."

KoTAGALA (mm. 25c.). — Soon after leaving Hatton the KoUtraia
railway line passes through the Poolbank tunnel, 614 yards ^>^^M
long. About the middle of the tunnel the gradient begins to
decline, until at Kotagala station we are seventy-six feet lower
than Hatton. After passing Kotagala the loveliness of the
scenery increases until it seems to reach its climax as the
remarkable beauty of the St. Clair Falls unfolds itself just
before we reach Taldwakel^. * The falls appear on the left, and
some vigilance is required to obtain a good view owing to the
recent growth of trees. The passenger who alights at Tald-
wakele should not fail to visit these falls, which can be reached
by walking to the 19^^ mile post on the Nawalapitiya road.
Two miles farther on the same winding road one of the most
beautiful landscapes in Ceylon is to be found, where, at an
abrupt corner of the road, another cataract, the Devon Falls,
bursts upon the sight. No photograph can do it justice; the
charm of the view is in the setting of the waterfall with its
steep and rugged background of rock, and the estates at
various elevations towering above it, while the more distant
ridges one by one recede till the farthermost is lost in rolling
vapours. There are here five miles of road that present some
exquisite landscapes seldom seen by the visitor, who is usually
pushing on with all speed to Nuwara Eliya.

TALAWAKELfe (115m. 65C.). — Taldwakele is an important TaWwakei*
station of Dimbula, the largest of all the tea districts. The •^•^-^^A''
little town itself has a population of about 1,500, and includes
amongst its local manufactures the various kinds of machinery
used in the manufacture of tea and the preparation of rubber.
Some idea of its business may be gauged from the fact that
about twenty million pounds of tea are despatched annually
from Taldwakel^ station alone. Local accommodation for

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462 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line travellers is good. The rest-house, five minutes' walk from
Dimbuia the Station, has three bedrooms and stabling for three horses,
good food being procurable without previously ordering. The
divisions of Lindula and Agrapatana are served by mail coaches
in which passengers can travel, and private carriages may be
obtained at moderate rates of hire. The whole district is well
served with means of communication ; the railway runs right
through it, winding about its mountain sides for twenty miles,
and reaching the elevation of five thousand feet ; while splendid
roads penetrate its various divisions. One of these, Agra-
Agrapatana patana, is sccond to none for its perfect combination of all the
characteristics of climate and soil that have been found suitable
for the production of the highest class of Ceylon tea. It has
indeed a perfect tea-climate; and the formation of the hills
ensures immunity from damage by wind, which in many dis-
tricts is a danger that has to be provided against by the growth
of extensive belts of grevilleas and gums for shelter. I do not
say that none are necessary in Agrapatana, but fewer than in
more exposed country. The climate of Dimbuia, especially in
the Lindula and Agrapatana divisions, is as near perfection as
need be desired. Its average shade temperature is about
65° Fahr., and it may be said that the variation is from 55°
to 70®. The rainfall is about one hundred inches for the year,
and is fairly distributed. After giving warning by the gradual
increase in the density of the vapours, it descends in true
tropical fashion, but with long intervals of sunshine between
the storms.

To visit Agrapatana we leave the railway at Taldwakel6,
where a good road passes through Lindula for about five miles,
and thence for twelve miles through the Agra district.
Taidwakeii But first of all Taldwakcl^ Bazaar will arrest attention; for
Bazaar j|. jg ^j^g q£ ^y^^ liveliest of native trading quarters. Here the
labourers, men, women, and children, of a hundred estates, are
supplied with their luxuries, which consist chiefly of trinkets,
sweets, curry stuffs, and cloths of many colours which, without
any tailoring, serve them as wearing apparel. Here, too, the
native rice-contractors have their stores, which are of no small
importance in a country where the soil is cultivated only for
the production of luxury for exportation, and the food of the
labourer is an imported article. We notice also in this busy
native town long rows of sheds and stations for the hundreds
of humped bulls that do the work of transport. Loads of tea
are always to be seen in course of transit to the railway, drawn
by these fine beasts.

Through the Agra district flows the Agra Oya, the longest
feeder of the Mahaweliganga (the great sandy river), whose
acquaintance we made at Peradeniya. This tributary takes its

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615. ST. CLAIR FALLS.

616. THE AGRA OYA.

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617. THE CANGANY AND HIS CHILDREN.

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465

The Agra
Oya

rise at Kirigalpotta, a mountain reaching. an altitude of 7,732 Main Line
feet, near the Horton plains. As we wend our way round the Agrapatana
hillsides it is always present, meandering close at hand in t-he
valley beneath. In flood it is a roaring torrent, but after the
rains have subsided it becomes a picturesque and shallow river
flowing amongst the thousands of massive boulders of granite
that have during long ages of time become detached from the
mountains and rolled into its bed.

Our little picture gives a glimpse of this river and the tea
estates which lie upon its banks. Here we see a factory on
some spot where the presence of the stream is a valuable asset
in providing power to supplement steam; there we notice a
bungalow upon some site chosen for its beautiful aspect; and
as we drive along the well-made metalled road we notice that
every acre, with the exception of some patanas, or grass lands,
from which the district derives its name, is well covered with
tea plants, looking unmistakably healthy, and evidencing the
perfect ** tea-climate *' to which we have, made reference.

For a short description of the tea industry we can choose no Tea
more suitable spot than this, or one more convenient to. the ■*'■"*'"*
traveller who desires to use this book for the purpose of glean-
ing information about the various districts through which, he
is passing by rail. We will first take in its order the daily
round of the planter's life. To him the adage ** Early to bed
and early to rise " is something more than a copy-book head-
line. He rises at early dawn, which in this country varies only
some minutes throughout the year, and at 6 a.m. attends the
muster of all the coolies employed on the estate. These com-
prise men, women, and children of about eleven ye^rs and
upwards, who assembly in gangs near the factory or other con-
venient spot. Each gang is in charge of a cangany or task-
master, who superintends the work of the labourers, chastises
them for their shortcomings, and looks after their finances,
not always disinterestedly. The cangany plays an important
part not only in the management of the labourers, but also in
their supply, and we shall have more to say about him later.
The conductor, too, is another official who puts in an appear-
ance and holds an even more important position. He is the
superintendent's right-hand man in. the fields ; he understands
the art of cultivation and looks after the various gangs. The
tea-maker who superintends the work inside the factory is also
there ; for work in every department begins with the break of
day. All appear as if by magic at the blast of a horn or the
sound of a tom-tom. The superintendent arrives on the scene,
counts them, and assigns them in gangs to various work ; some
to plucking, others to pruning, weeding, and clearing surface
drains. He then recounts them and enters the number assigned

Tht cangany

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line to each work, in order that he may be able to check them
Ten at the end of the day. Early tea, that simple term used in

***•"*'■*' Ceylon to denote the Indian chota hazari or little breakfast,
is the next item in the superintendent's programme, and he
returns to his bungalow for this repast. The factory is next
visited, and everything there being found satisfactory he pro-
ceeds to the fields and inspects the work of the pluckers. Here
he walks carefully along the lines of women and children who
are plucking the young grown leaves.
Plucking In our picture may be seen some pluckers at work. The

baskets, which they carry suspended by ropes from their heads
and into which they cast the leaves over their shoulders, hold
about fourteen pounds weight when full. At the end of each
row of trees is placed a large transport basket, into which the
leaves are emptied from time to time as the baskets become
full. Women are preferred to men for this work, and earn as
much as twenty-five cents, or about fourpence a day. They are
not always the wives of the male coolies of the estate ; many of
them come over from India attracted by the high rate of wages
above mentioned. They look very picturesque while standing
intent upon their work among the bushes, with their fine glossy
hair and dreamy black eyes, their ears, necks, arms, and ankles
adorned with silver ornaments, and their gay cloths of many
colours falling in graceful folds. To such an extent does prac-
tice quicken the action of eye, brain, and finger, that it is
difficult for the uninitiated to believe how carefully chosen is
each leaf or shoot that falls into the basket. Plucking is a
most important branch of the tea-planter's business, and re-
quires careful teaching and constant supervision. Only the
young and succulent leaves can be used in the manufacture,
and the younger the leaf the finer the quality of the tea; so
that if a specially delicate quality is desired, only the bud and
two extreme leaves of each shoot will be taken ; whereas if a
large yield is wanted, as many as four leaves may be plucked
from the top of the shoot downwards, but with the result of a
proportionately poorer quality of the manufactured article.
There are many other points in the art of tea plucking that
require care and judgment, as, for instance, the eye or bud in
the axil of the leaf plucked must be left uninjured on the
branch ; and where special grades of tea are required the selec-
tion of particular leaves is of the utmost importance.
Weeding Although a tea estate has no hedgerows or such visible

boundaries, it is nevertheless divided into fields for convenience
of treatment, and each field is visited in turn by the super-
intendent. Weeding is very effectively and thoroughly carried
out. It would astonish farmers in the Old Country to hear
that in Ceylon the tea fields are weeded on contract at the

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619. THE MERCILESS OPERATION OF DISMEMBERMENT.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

469

rate of about one shilling and fourpence for each acre per Main Line
month, and that upon this system they are kept almost entirely Tea
free from weeds and grass. Indeed, it may be said that the p*"^"»
tea gardens of Ceylon are kept far cleaner than most of the
flower gardens of England.

If left to Nature the tea plant will grow to the height of
about twenty feet, with a circumference of about the same ;
but the art of the planter keeps it down to about three feet
by constant prunings. After a year or two of plucking the Pruning
plant naturally loses the vitality requisite to send forth abund-
ance of new shoots ; it then undergoes the merciless operation
of dismemberment ; its branches are lopped off to such an
extent that it looks utterly ruined. • But, as though its vital
parts had appreciated the rest, it bursts forth with renewed
vigour, and in a very few weeks is ready for the ordeal of
another year's constant plucking. It is the practice ini some
cases to prune somewhat lightly ev^ry year and in others to
apply a heavier pruning biennially.

But we are anticipating, and it will perhaps be better to
explain the treatment of the plant in its earliest stages of
growth. It is planted in the fields either as seed or in the
form of young plants taken from a nursery. Each plant is
allotted twelve square feet of surface soil, and thus we may
say that a fully-planted acre contains 3,630 plants. An im-
portant consideration in planting out the young seedlings which
are raised in the nursery is the ** lining *' or placing them so
that each may obtain the fullest exposure to the sun, in order
that when they reach maturity the plucking surface, which
wholly depends upon the sun*s influence, may be as great as
possible. Opinions differ as to the age at which plucking may -
begin, but it depends greatly upon the elevation of the estate
above sea-level, the growth being naturally less rapid in the
cooler regions of higher altitude. We may, however, say
roughly that in the low country, from sea-level to two thou-
sand feet, tea plants will mature for plucking in two years,
and upon the higher lands in four years. But about a year
before the plant thus comes into bearing for purposes of tea
manufacture it is cut down to about nine inches or a foot
from the ground ; and again the same operation is performed
two inches higher than the first cutting a ^^^'^ '
before plucking begins. The plant is now plucked regularly
every eight or nine days for two years, when it is again cut
down to a couple of inches above the last cut. It will be
seen from the foregoing remarks that in the matter of pruning
the younger bushes are treated somewhat differently from the
older ones, inasmuch as the young ones are allowed to retain
a larger proportion of their recent growth.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line

Tea

Planting

Sorting

The amateur who tries ,his prentice hand with the pruning
knife will be surprised at the hard labour, of the task and the
discomfort of the stooping attitude that must be adopted ; and
when it is considered that a field of about fifty acres contains
some two hundred, thousand bushes the amount of toil in-
volved will become apparent. Of course male coolies only are
employed at this work, and they become so remarkably dex-
terous that what seems to the novice a task of great exertion
becomes to them one of comparative ease.

The branches which are lopped off in the process of pruning
are for the most part left where they fall ; but as many fall
into and obstruct the surface drains it is necessary to put on
coolies to clear these out. A space of about six feet on either
side of the drain is kept entirely free, so that there may be
no impediment to the flow of the surface water. It is, how-
ever^ considered advisable, in seasons of much blight, to bury
or burn the prunings, and this method has recently been very
extensively adopted.

It is now about ten o'clock and the baskets of the most
dexterous pluckers should be nearly full. The superintendent
therefore returns to them and notes against their names the
weight of leaf plucked by each, after which the baskets are
emptied and the leaf conveyed to the factory. This operation
is repeated two or three times in the course of the day. At
four o'clock the pluckers cease work and carry off their baskets
to the factory, where they sort over the leaf upon mats spread
on the ground, as shown in our picture, and cast out any very
coarse leaf that may have been accidentally plucked. The
number of pounds plucked by each coolie is again entered in
the check roll against his or her name, and then the sum of
each plucker's efforts passes before the eye of the super-
intendent before the coolies are dismissed; and woe betide
him, or her, who has not a goodly weight accounted for.
Laziness thus detected brings a fine of half pay and in many
cases a taste of the cangany's stick.

But we were describing the daily round of the superin-
tendent, and at present we have not pursued it beyond the
early morning visits to various kinds of field work. Some four
hours spent in this occupation in the pure mountain air, upon
the rocky steeps that we have described, induce a fairly healthy
appetite for food and drink, and the next consideration is
therefore the inner man. The planter returns to his bungalow
for breakfast at about eleven, and generally spends the after-
noon in attention to correspondence. At four the sound of
the tom-tom, horn, or whistle, according to the custom of
the estate, summons the coolies from the fields to the muster
ground, where the superintendent now marks them down in

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

473

the check-roll for their day*s pay. . In case of bad or in* Main Line
sufficient work the offender is ma^ed down as ** sick/' which Tea
means no pay at all for that day ; or he gets what is termed «•"**««
** half a name,'' which means half pay. Now. they depart to
their dwellings, which are called * * lines. ' ' . A coolie line is Cooiie lines
usually a long building of one storey only, divided into a large
number of compartments. Each compartment accommodates
about four coolies, and it is obvious that they do not rejoice
in the luxury of much space ; but their ideas of comfort are
not ours, and they are better pleased to lie huddled together
upon the mud floors of these tiny hovels than to occupy superior
apartments. Their lot does not call for pity or sympathy, for
in many respects they are a favoured class.

' We have now dealt with a day's field-work: we have seen The factory
how the raw material is obtained ; but we have still to examine
the various processes by which it is converted into the manu-
factured article. For this purpose we visit the; factory. Here
the green leaf undergoes four distinct processes, known as
withering, rolling, fermenting, and firing. We will take these
in their order, and first as to withering :

Let us deal with the green leaf that has been plucked on Withering
Monday and brought to the factory as before described. It
is received by the tea maker, who ascertains its net weight,
which he enters in a book. It is then passed on to an upper
storey, where it is spread thinly on shelves of jute hessian
and left to wither. Our illustration of this process will give
a better idea of the shelves and the method of spreading' the
leaves than many words of description. These shelves are some-
times made of wire instead of jute, but jute hessian very loosely
woven so that the air can pass freely through it is mostly used
for this purpose. Successful withering depends very much on
good light, warm temperature, and a dry atmosphere. The
last named is often the most difficult to obtain, and upon wet
dull days it has to be produced by artificial means. In fair
weather the leaf will wither naturally in about eighteen or
twenty hours, but as the weather and climates vary in different
districts there can be no time rule to guide the < tea maker.
When it is explained that the object of withering the leaf is
to allow the sap and other moisture to evaporate until the leaf
assumes a particular degree of softness and flaccidity, which
renders it susceptible to a good twist by the roller in the next
process, it will be realised how important a thing it is for
the tea maker to judge of the exact moment when these con-
ditions have been reached and the withering must terminate.

The leaf, being withered to this exact degree, is swept
together and conveyed to the lower floor by means of a shoot.
Here it is put into a machine called a roller. The object of

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474

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Tea
Plantlnflr

Rolling

The
roll-breaker

Main Une rolling is. to squeeze out the .tannin and any moisture left over
after* the withering and to give the leaf a good twist. It is
difficult to describe a tea- roller, or to illustrate its effective
parts' by a photograph of the complete machine in working;
our. illustration should, however, assist us to understand it
sufficiently with the. following explanation : The lower part
may be regarded as a table with cylindrical ribs attached to
its surface and a trap door in the centre. Suspended above
this table is a smaller surface opposed to it, and the two sur-
faces are moved in contrary directions by a crank with an
eccentric motion. The upper surface is open in the centre, and
extending upwards from the opening is a funnel or box to
receive the withered leaf,. which being therein placed the two
surfaces are set in motion by steam or other power, and the
leaf is thus rolled and twisted between the two surfaces. The
lid of the. funnel or box is gradually screwed down as rolling
proceeds and in this way the pressure upon the leaf is regulated.
The appearance of the leaf or ** roll, "as it is technically termed,
when taken out of the roller is a mess of mashy lumps.

It is next put through a roll-breaker, which not only breaks
up the balls or lumps into which the leaves have formed but
sifts the small and fihe leaf through a wire mesh on to a cloth
placed below to receive it. The roll-breaker operates on the
leaf by means of rapidly revolving shafts to which are attached
iron forks that beat against the balls as they are cast into the
funnel. It is by the use of rolling machinery that Ceylon tea
is kept. pure and free from the dirt which finds its way into the
teas of China, where the operation is performed by the hands
of the bland but unwashed Ah Sin.

The leaf is next spread out in wooden, frames, and having
been covered by wet cloths is allowed to. ferment until it attains
a bright copper tint such as the infused leaves have in the
tea-pot ; or -at 'least should have, for the brighter they ap|>ear
the better the tea. The rolling process, by breaking the cells
of the leaf, induces fermentation, which is a very necessary
stage of the manufacture, the character of the tea when made
depending greatly on the degree to which fermentation is
allowed to continue. When the commodity known as green
tea is required, the fermentation is checked at once so that
no change of colour may take place ; but to produce black tea
the process must be carried on for a considerable time, the
sufficiency :o{ which is determined by the smell and appearance
of the leaf — ^points that require considerable experience and
care, since over-fermentation entirely spoils the quality.*

* In the Kelani Valley, and other districts of the low country where the
climate is much hotter, very little fermenting is necessary. The leaves are
spread out thinly for a short time and firing may then be proceeded with.

Fermenting

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

477

Fermentation being complete, the tea is now transferred M«inU«e
to the apparatus known as the desiccator, where it undergoes Tea
the process known as firing. The ' fermented leaf is spread ^ "j^*
thinly upon wire trays, which are pushed one after the other ""^^ *"^
into this machine, where a current of hot air from 210° to
220*^ Fahr. is made to pass through them. The tea emerges
from the desiccator perfectly dry and brittle, and of a black
colour. It is now completely manufactured. The tea maker
next weighs it and enters the amount of ** made tea '* against
the leaf which he received on. Monday, and it should be found
to be lighter by 76 per cent. The actual ratio of green leaf
to ** made tea " works out at about 4,200 lbs. of green leaf to
1,000 lbs. of manufactured tea.

Monday's plucking, which has how by Tuesday night been
converted into tea, is placed into bins, with wire meshed lids,'
to cool, and on Wednesday morninjjf it goes through the
process of sifting, which sorts i*^ 'to the various grades

known commercially as Br , . Pekoe, Orange Pekoe,

Pekoe, Souchong, and Dust, all ui which terms are of Chinese
origin, and refer to some characteristic of the sort of tea they
represent.

The sifter is a machine consisting of a series of sieves one si/iing
above the other in the fotm of sloping trays with wire meshes.
The top tray has a mesh large enough to admit all but the
coarsest leaf ; the mesh of the second one is somewhat smaller,
and the third and fourth decrease in like manner. This
sequence of meshes, varying in their apertures, is designed
to allow the tea to practically sift itself, inasmuch as each sieve
arrests a particular grade, the smallest leaf falling through all
the sieves. These sieves or trays are made to oscillate at a
very high rate of speed, the power being supplied from the
factory engine. It will be seen from our illustration that the
sifter automatically ejects the various grades by means of
spouts from which it falls into chests.

There is yet something more to be said about the tea as GoUenTips
it comes from the sifter. The smallest ** leaf *' which finds its
way to the bottom of the sifter is known as ** tea dust.'* It
makes good tea ; but the crime de la crime of Ceylon tea is
that which is arrested by the fourth sieve, known commercially
as Broken Orange Pekoe. It is a fine and small tea, consist-
ing to a great extent of young tips which look like little chips
of wood. These tips not only give the tea a good appear-
ance, but they add greatly to its strength and flavour when
infused, as they are the essence of the leaf. Alone they would
be far too strong for the tea-pot, but sometimes they have been
separated from the other leaves and sold as pure golden tips.
They may be separated by throwing the tea against a big sheet

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478

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line of jute-hessian, to which the tips adhere and the remainder

Tea falls to the ground.

Piantinflr yj^g Broken > Orange Pekoe travels along the lowest tray

till it reaches the end of the machine, where it falls into its
box, from which it. is removed, weighed again, and transferred
to bins reserved for its special grade. The other grades,
Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, and Souchong, are all treated in like
manner, each falling from the sifter, into its special box. The
tea maker enters in the factory book the weight of each grade
after sifting, and checks it by the aggregate weight entered
before sifting.

The different grades are day by day stored away in their
separate bins, until there is enough to make what is tech-
nically known as a ** break;** which means a sufficient quantity
to place on the market — say 6,000 lbs. and upwards.

Bulking 'pi^e ^^gxt operation is ** bulking,** a process simple enough,

but of very real importance. The whole contents of the bins
of one grade are thrown out and moved by scoops or shovels
until they become so thoroughly mixed that one pound of tea
is quite certain to be equal to another in flavour and appear-
ance. This bulking is necessary to ensure a uniformity of
quality throughout a grade of tea which has been plucked and
made on different days. The term ** factory bulked,** when
marked upon the chests in which the tea is packed for ship-
ment, indicates that the above operations have taken place,
and is a guarantee of uniform quality. It is. imperative that
the planter should give most careful attention to this matter,
as buyers are entitled to reject any break that does not prove
to be evenly bulked ; and, moreover, teas discovered to be
unevenly bulked when they arrive in the London customs are
liable to be rebulked at the expense of the grower before
removal.
Packing Packing is the next operation. Each chest is lined with

lead, and weighed carefully with its little packet of hoop iron
and nails necessary for finally securing the lid. The gross
weight of each is noted, and filling then commences. This is
generally done by machinery. The chest is placed on a plat-
form which oscillates and revolves at about two thousand five
hundred revolutions a minute ; the tea being poured in is thus
shaken so that the utmost capacity of the chest is utilised. All
this is done so accurately that the full chest contains its allotted
net weight to an ounce. A sheet of lead is now placed on the
top and soldered down, thus securing the contents from air
or moisture. The lids now being nailed on and the hoop iron
attached, the chests are ready for the final operation of marking
with the estate name, the grade, and the gross and net weight,
after which they are ready for despatch to the tea market.

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625. DIMBULA FROM NANU OYA.

626. A DIMBULA TEA ESTATE AND FACTORY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

481

That tea planting is an active and busy life will be gathered Main lim
from the foregoing sketch of the daily round, and it may not ^imbuia
be untrue to say that the planter as a rule works hard. Perhaps
it is equally true that he plays harder. In this and many other
districts life is by no means all work, nor does it mean, as it
used to do in the early coffee days, banishment from the
amenities of social life. Each district has its sporting, social,
and athletic clubs, and cricket, football, and hockey grounds,
while some have also their racecourse.

We take train again at Taldwakele, and after a mile or
two a distant view of the beautiful Devon Falls is noticed. An
interesting feature of this part of the journey is the curious
serpentine winding of the line. In one place to advance a
single furlong it takes a curve of nearly a mile in length,
tracing the outline of a huge soda-water bottle, and rising
meanwhile ninety feet. The windings necessary to reach the
Great Western mountains now become so compressed that to
accomplish the distance of about one mile direct the train tra-
verses six miles of railway in a fashion so circuitous that a
straight line drawn from a certain point would cross the rails
nine times.

Watagoda (i2om. 9c.). — Watagoda station has no feature Waugoda
of special interest beyond its usefulness in receiving and ^'^^f^^
despatching the produce of the important districts which it
serves ; but as we reach it, having ascended to four hundred
feet above Taldwakel^, the atmosphere becomes so crisp and
refreshing that it is difficult to realise the latitude of our
position within six degrees of the equator. The line now
gradually ascends upon the steep sides of the Great Western
range, and approaches Nanuoya, with sensational crossings
upon girders laid from rock to rock over the clefts of the moun-
tains, affording magnificent views of the Dimhiula district and
of Adam's Peak, twenty-five miles distant, and upwards of
seven thousand feet above sea-level. The lovely purple glow
that softly lights the distant ridges in the early morn lends an
additional charm to the return journey begun at daybreak.

Nanuoya (128m. 6c.). — Nanuoya is the junction for the
Nuwara Eliya and UdapUssellawa lines. The railway facilities
are very complete and convenient, including waiting, dressing,
and refreshment rooms. Passengers travelling from Bandara-
wela can order their meals by telegraph free of cost.

We shall for the purpose of our description continue upon
the main line to the terminus of Bandarawela, afterwards
returning to the narrow gauge line which serves Nuwara Eliya.

From Nanuoya the main line gradually ascends a thousand
more feet in the next nine miles, the scenery changing from

Nanuoya

5,291 fed

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482

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Ambawela

6,064 feet

Pattlpola

6,244 feet

Main Line Cultivated tea estates to stretches of primeval forest inter-
spersed with patanas or grass lands. The temperature be-
comes cold and the vegetation, although never leafless, appears
stunted as compared with the luxuriance of the lower valleys.
On the opposing slopes of a magnificent gorge the Dambagas-
taldwa waterfalls dashing forth in the midst of dense forest
will be noticed from the train.

Ambawela (137m. 8c.). — Ambawela station serves the New
Gallway estates five miles distant ; but is far from any town
or village. Vegetables of every kind that flourish in tem-
perate climates do well here and are cultivated for the Colombo
market and the requirements of the passenger steamships.
Among the animals that inhabit the forests are the elk, the
leopard, and the elephant.

Pattipola (139m. 6c.). — Here the highest point of the main
line is reached. This station interests us as being a con-
venient point from which to start on a walking excursion to
the Horton Plains (six miles). It is not the nearest station to
the plains ; but from it the path is easier than from Ohiya.
Moreover there is a comfortable rest-house at Pattipola where
we can stay in case of missing a train. Horton Plains will
presently be described ; but first some reference must be made
to the unique natural features of the spot we have now reached.
At Pattipola there is but a wall of rock, the crest of a moun-
tain, between us and a province totally different in physical
aspect and in climate. The railway pierces the rock, and as
we emerge there is suddenly spread before us the grandest
panorama in Ceylon, a vast mountain ledge of rolling downs,
six hundred square miles in extent, forming an arena to the
lofty blue mountains that surrpund it. It is the province of
Uva. The transition is instantaneous, and the spectacle
startling, especially if, as often happens, we have been en-
veloped in damp mists in our approach to the tunnel. The
phenomenon is most striking in the south-west monsoon when
the prevailing weather on the west side of the dividing range
is wet, misty and cold, while on the eastern side the whole
plains are ablaze with sunshine, and the air is crisp and dry.
It is even possible to stand on the crest of the mountain through
which the tunnel passes and see the storms of the west being
held back from the bracing air and sunshine of the east by
the dividing ranges. The existence of these two distinct and
separate climates is due to the action of the" monsoons in con-
nection with the peculiar formation of the mountain system.
The astonishing effect is not limited to this neighbourhood,
but extends to all the ranges which divide the province of Uva
from the west. Thus it frequently happens that when Nuwara

A startling
spectacle

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627. A GORGE OF THE UVA DOWNS.

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628. OHIYA RAILWAY STATION.

629. UVA UNDER ITS RAINY MANTLE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 485

Eliya is wet, a clear sky and sunshine may be enjoyed by an Main Line
hour's drive into Uva, and vice versa, for Uva is frequently
under its rainy mantle during the north-east monsoon. Some
beautiful effects are produced by this peculiar combination of
phenomena in the graceful forms evolved from the mists as
they roil onward and gather in dense masses above the crests
of the mountain barriers that protect the sunny plains.

Ohiya (143m. 33c.). — Ohiya, which we illustrate in plate ohiya
628, is one of the most picturesque stations on this line; but ^-^-/"^
its beauty is of a character . reminiscent of Cornwall rather
than the tropics, for here we see English flowers in great
variety and abundance, and no sign of the flora which dis-
tinguishes the lower elevations. About a thousand feet above
Ohiya lie the Horton Plains, which may be reached in an hour Horton
and a half by a precipitous path through the forest. This ^'***'"
extensive table-land, seven thousand feet above sea level, was
until the introduction of the railway so exempt from human
interference that the elk, red deer, wild boar, and leopard
dwelt there in great numbers, and the sportsman of Ceylon
could always depend on a good bag. The old rest-house was
the only building for fifteen miles, and it was chiefly used for
hunting and shooting parties.

The famous abyss known as The World's End also attracts The world's
a number of travellers. This merits a few lines of description. ^"'^
The southern portion of the great table-land ends so abruptly
as to give the sensation of having literally arrived at the end
of the world. The traveller comes upon this suddenly when
emerging from the forest, and the effect is startling in the
extreme. One may stand at the brink of the precipice and gaze
straight down the sheer side of the mountain upon another
world five thousand feet below. Here is an atmosphere
bracing and cold ; there lie the steaming plains of the low
country. So great is the distance of the plantations, rivers,
bungalows, and forests, that only by the aid of a telescope
can the nature of any particular object be determined. Few
human eyes looked across that marvellous abyss until quite
recent years ; but with the facilities now offered by the rail-
way it is becoming a more frequented spot. Although the
leopard may have deserted his old haunt and the herds of
elephants betaken themselves to quieter regions undisturbed by
the iron horse, the same weird forests, with their dense under-
growth of masses of nelu scrub, the same magnificent land-
scapes and the impressive scene at the World's End are
there unaltered. The trees, which look so old and undisturbed
with their rich long beards of variegated moss, appeared to
be dwarfed by the cold of their lofty and exposed situation.

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486

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line

Haputale

4,765 feet

Dlyatalawa

4,367 feet

Bandarawela

4fi36feet

Wild flowers, orchids, and ferns always render the scene fairy-
like in the sunshine, but it is when the nelu is in blossom that
these highland forests transcend in beauty almost every other
p>art of Ceylon. This lovely flowering shrub, of the Sirobilanthes
family, is the chief undergrowth in these forests, and the
species number as many as twenty-seven, some of which g^row
only in the drier parts of the country, but about twenty of
them favour those forests with a considerable rainfall. Some
are delicate and small, others have thick cane stems and grow
to a great height. The blossoms cluster round the joints of
their stems, and display great variety of colour — ^blue, purple,
red, white, and the parti-coloured crimson and white. The
blossoming is so profuse that the plant takes some years to
recover, and it is therefore seldom that these high jungles are
seen in their fullest glory. The fragrance of the atmosphere
is no less remarkable than the beauty of the scene.

Haputale (153m. 43c.). — From Ohiya the railway gradually
descends amidst a multitude of broken cliff^s and rocky ravines
and through a series of short tunnels until Haputale is reached.
This place should be visited by the traveller, if only for the
magnificent view to be obtained of the low country. On a
clear day the lowlands are visible right away to the south coast.
There is usually considerable haze over wooded and undulated
lands in the far distance; but even this is beautiful, and lends
a lovely bliie tint to the whole scene.

To the south of Haputale lies an important planting district
possessing an almost perfect climate and lovely scenery. The
visitor, who will find the accommodation at the rest-house
sufficient for his needs, should explore the outlying districts of
Koslande and Haldamulla.

DiVATALAWA (156m. 76c.). — Diyatalawa is famous as the
place where five thousand of the Boer prisoners-of-war were
encamped for two years. A considerable number of the build-
ings erected for their accommodation are still in use for military
purposes, the camp being used as a sanatorium for regular
troops and a training ground for the volunteers.

Bandarawela (i6om. 58c.). — Bandarawela is the terminus
of the main line. Upon arrival here the visitor, is geiieraUy
eager to admit that upon no other railway journey has he ex-
perienced scenes so varied and interesting as those afforded by
this journey from Colombo to Bandarawela. The railway now
renders the choice of climate to which we have previously re-
ferred available at all seasons. There is a good hotel at
Bandarawela, and the enervated resident of the lowlands can
at all times make sure of enjoying fine invigorating air in a few
hours, choosing Uva when Nuwara Eliya is wet, and vice versa.

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630. HAPUTALE RAILWAY STATION.

031. VIEW FROM HAPUTALE LOOKING TO TOTAPELLA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 489

The principal mountains which enclose the great stretch of MainLiae
rolling downs, which we have seen upon our journey down
from Ohiya, surveying them from the left, are Hakgalla,
Pidurutallagalla, the Udapussellawa and Kandapola ranges,
and Namunakula.

Many pleasant excursions are open to the visitor from Baduiia.
Bandarawela, descriptions of which we have not space to
include here. We must, however, make some reference to
one of the most charming towns of Ceylon, that lies in a lovely
valley at the foot of the noble Namunakula — Badulla, the
capital of the province and the seat of the Government Agent.
Between Bandarawela and Badulla there is a regular coach
service, which makes the journey quite practicable for the
visitor. The journey of seventeen miles will be found interest-
ing mainly on account of the flourishing tea estates through
which we pass and the rice fields which fill the valley for the
last four or five miles. Arriving at Badulla, in consequence of
our having descended from an elevation of four thousand to
about two thousand feet, the climate will be found much
warmer. The lower elevation favours tropical verdure, and
we see in Badulla the beautiful trees and palms that we miss in
the arena of the patanas of Uva. Upon entering the town the
traveller is impressed by the architectural features and the
substantial appearance of the public buildings, the fine trees
by which the broad roads are everywhere shaded, and the
general well-kept air of the place. A river, whose banks are
clothed with beautiful vegetation, almost encircles the town
and supplies the elas which irrigate vast stretches of paddy
fields. After pursuing a course which contributes greatly to
the agricultural utility as well as to the charm of the scenery,
the waters flow through a narrow gorge and over a precipitous
rock to form the exquisite Dunhinda Falls.

The judge's bungalow will be first noticed on a knoll to
the right, and as we proceed the remarkably fine Hospital
comes into view on the left. Next we pass the market, which
is an ornamental as well as a very useful institution. Here
we notice a plentiful supply of fine fruit, suggesting at once
that we are in a fruit-growing district. Indeed, we soon find
this to be the case; for nowhere do we get better pineapples
and oranges than are spread before us in abundance at the
rest-house. If it be the season for this fruit the pineapples,
eighteen inches in circumference and of unequalled flavour,
will be remembered by the traveller when other details of his
visit have long faded from his mind. From the market extends
one of the most beautiful avenues of Inga Saman, or rain trees,
that can be found anywhere.

On the right of the avenue is an extensive grassy bank

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490 • THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Main Line over which a grand view of Namunakula can be seen, his
Baduiia lofty^brow frequently enshrouded in mist, as in our picture in
plate 632. On the left of the avenue we notice several imposing
buildings, including the District Court, the Police Barracks,
and the Kachcheri, or seat of provincial government. The
last-named is on the site of the old star fort, the earthworks of
which still remain. In earlier times the palace of the Prince
of Uva is said to have stood there.

The province is administered by the Government Agent and
his staff from the Kachcheri. The area is 3,725 square miles,
and the population about 160,000 Sinhalese. For convenience
of administration it is formed into seven divisions, each being
placed under the care of a Rat^mahatmaya.

There is an estate population of immigrant Tamils to the
number of about 35,000. These are mostly employed on the
estates of the British planters which cover the mountains of
the Madulsima, Monaragala, and Haputale ranges. These
estates, about two hundred in number, are the principal con-
tributors to the general prosperity of the province, and to
them BaduUa owes its rise from an insignificant village to a
thriving and beautiful town.
"^bii'T^^b' ^ memorial of touching interest is to be seen in the old

cemetery at Badulla — the tomb of Mrs. Wilson, wife of the
Assistant Government Agent, Sylvester Douglas Wilson, who
was killed in the rebellion of 181 7. It will be noticed that a
bo tree, Ficus religiosdy has here almost completely enfolded
the tomb, holding it firmly and securely in its embrace. Not
a stone can be removed without cutting the tree. Even the
inscribed tablet at the end of the tomb is partly covered; but
the tree here is kept trimmed so that the inscription may be
seen. This tree is the species of fig which is held in great
veneration by the Buddhists. Quite near to the Kachcheri
stands the comfortable rest-house with a vista stretching* down
a fine boulevard in the ' direction of the Hospital. It is more
. than an ordinary rest-house both in its accommodation and its
cuisine, and might be described as a comfortable little hotel.
Beyond this, on the left, is an ornamental fountain, on the
right the quarters of the Provincial Engineer, and further on
standing in extensive grounds is the Residency, the official
abode of the Government Agent of the province. The Town
Hall, which serves as a library and reading-room as well as a
place for public meetings, and one of the best buildings of the
town, is situated near the Residency.

One other feature of this important and progressive town
is the botanic gardens. The climate is so perfectly suited for
experimental horticulture that it was thought advisable some
ten years ago to establish a branch of Peradeniya here. How

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633. BADULLA REST-HOUSE.

634. TOMB OF MRS. WILSON EMBRACED BY THE STEM OF
THE SACRED BO-TREE.

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635. THE NANUOYA PASS BEFORE THE CONSTRUCTION OF
THE RAILWAY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

493

successful this venture has been is evident to anyone who visits ^■*" *-'"•
the gardens. They are already full of marvels, and form a ^^**^^^
great attraction to both residents and visitors.

Adjoining the gardens is the race-course where the ** Merrie
men of Uva " assemble annually for the Uva Autumn Meet.

In most Eastern towns there is a display of squalor and filth
which the Briton who has not been out of his native land can
hardly realise; but Badulla is one of the exceptions. Perhaps
the situation of the town, with the Baduluoya sweeping almost
completely round it, the sloping streets, and the mild and
moist climate which causes the vegetation to absorb noxious
matter, may contribute to the wholesome appearance; but in
addition to these influences there must be some virtue possessed
by the inhabitants which is not universally distributed amongst
town-dwellers in Ceylon. Our lasting impressions of Badulla
will be its well-tended buildings and streets and the beautiful
trees by which they are shaded; its luxuriant fruit gardens in
the valley of the Baduluoya ; its charming race-course and the
lovely setting of the town, deeply bordered with the bright
green of the paddy fields as seen from the surrounding hills.

THE UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE
ITINERARY

Passengers for Nuwara Eliya leave the main line trains at N«nuoy«
Nanuoya and proceed by the narrow-gauge line which passes ^>29f/eet
through Nuwara Eliya to the district of Udapussellawa. The
pass by which Nuwara Eliya is reached is one of the most
exquisite things in Ceylon, equalled perhaps only by the Gini-
gathena pass, to which reference has been made on page
198. In traversing its length the line makes a further ascent
of one thousand feet in six miles. The curves and windings
necessary to accomplish this are the most intricate on the
whole railway, and sometimes have a radius of only eighty
feet. On the right wall of a deep mountain gorge wc ascend
amongst the tea bushes of Edinburgh estate, and at length
emerge upon a road, which the line shares with the cart
traffic for about a mile. In the depths of the defile flows
the Nanuoya river, foaming amongst huge boulders of rock
that have descended from the sides of the mountains, and
bordered by tree ferns innumerable and brilliant trees of the
primeval forest which entirely clothe the face of the heights.
In this land of no seasons their stages of growth are denoted

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636.

SHARP CURVE OF THE RAILWAY ABOVE
NANUOYA.

637. THE NANUOYA PASS AFTER THE ADDITION OF THE
RAILWAY.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

495

by the varying tints of scarlet, gold, crimson, sallow green,
and, most striking of all, a rich claret colour, the chief glory
of the keena tree. Here is no leafless winter, although we
have reached an altitude where frost is not unknown. None of
the plants are deciduous. In such a climate, however, with
bright, warm and sunny days following on chilly nights, the
lovely ferns which sometimes in the early morn look pitiable
with their blackened fronds soon recover their wonted hues.
In plate 636 we see one of the sharp curves of the railway to
which we have referred, and in plate 637 we see the road and
railway together. How far the aesthetic qualities of this scene
have suffered from the utilitarian operations of railway con-
struction may be judged by comparison of plates 635 and 637,
the latter representing the view before the introduction of the
iron horse. Here the railway leaves the cart road and enters
an enchanting glen embellished with pools and bordered by
receding hills down whose slopes the waters of twin cataracts
are dashing in headlong course. We cross the waters where
they reach the glen, and passing through a deep cutting come
out upon the plain of Nuwara Eliya, which the railway crosses,
reaching the station on the eastern side.

NuwARA Eliya (6m. 45c.) is well equipped with hotels and
boarding-houses. The Grand Hotel is in a central position
on the west side of the plain overlooking the golf links
and public gardens; the New Keena Hotel, on the same
side, is near the United Club, croquet and tennis grounds,
and the race-course; and the St. Andrews Hotel is beauti-
fully situated at the north end of the plain commanding a fine
view of the whole station. Amongst boarding-»houses, Carlton
House, under Mrs. Edley, has a good reputation. In addition
to the accommodation thus afforded, furnished bungalows for
families making a prolonged visit are usually available.

There is probably no other place in the world that possesses
such a remarkable combination of attractions as Nuwara Eliya.
This fact should be noted not only by the large army of wan-
derers who annually flee from the rigours of winter in northern
latitudes, but also by the enfeebled residents of the Indian
plains, for whom this unique retreat with its health-giving
properties should have an irresistible attraction. • Nuwara
Eliya has a special recommendation which gives it the palm
over all other health resorts. Here we can enjoy the purest
and most invigorating air, with a temperature best suited to
the health of Europeans, and yet behold a luxuriant tropical
country at our feet. We can experience the change from a
glorious bright day to a cold Scotch mist, and yet, if we choose,
we can leave the moist atmosphere and leaden sky at will, and
by an hour's walk reach dry hills and sunny plains.

UdapnsMl-
lawa Line

Nuwara Bllya

6,198 feet

Local
accommodation

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

A ttrtuHom to
visitors

Its situation

udapnssei- A clear idea of the situation of this favoured spot can best

lawaLine |^^ gained by regarding the highlands of Ceylon as one huge
uwaraE ya upheaval, having an area of about 4,000 square miles, with an
irregular surface of hills and peaks of var>'ing height, deep
ravines and grassy plains, dense forests and open valleys ; a
dozen distinct climates, each with its special characteristics of
animal and vegetable life, from the' lofty palms and gorgeous
flowering shrubs of the lower elevations to the hardwood trees
and English flowers of the highest ; from the steaming haunts
of the bear and buffalo to the cool regions beloved of the elk
and elephant. There are choice of climate and choice of scenery
to suit any constitution and to gratify every taste; the wildest
rugged country and the sweetest undulating plains; wild sport
for the daring, golf-links and trout-fishing for quieter spirits,
and a new world withal for those who need a complete change
from familiar scenes.

From the base of this mighty upheaval rise abruptly the
four extensive ledges which we observed from the sea, at
diff'erent elevations, and a number of lofty mountains, some of
which reach the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level.
The highest, called Pidurutallagalla, reaches 8,280 feet, and at
the foot of it lies the Nuwara Eliya plain, just 2,000 feet below.
Its position is, roughly speaking, in the centre of the highlands
and approximately at the highest elevation, o'ertopped by only
one of the mountain ledges. What wonder, then, at its pure
and unpolluted air and its marvellous effects on the weakened
constitutions of denizens of the low country, who find in it a
sanatorium for regaining the energies they have lost?

To the newly-arrived visitor nothing is more astonishing
than the mental and physical change that he himself experi-
ences. The pale and languid victim of thr sultry plains is
surprised at the sudden return of his lost appetite and the
delightful glow that pervades the system, marking the return
of the warm tints of health. A few days effect a still greater
change; the muscles become firm, the limbs gain vigour, and,
above all, the rising spirits rapidly dispel the clouds of de-
pression and invest existence with new delight. All this is due
to the wonderful influence of the pure mountain air. Such was
the experience of Sir Samuel Baker, the mighty hunter and
explorer, so far back as fifty years ago. After shooting in the
lowlands for about a year he was reduced to a mere shadow by
an attack of jungle fever. As soon as he was able to endure
the journey he was sent by his doctor to Nuwara Eliya. What
better testimony of its invigorating influence is needed than
this? ** A poor and miserable wretch I was upon my arrival
at this elevated station, suffering not only from the fever itself,
but from the feeling of an exquisite debility that creates an utter

Its salubrity

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esa THE NEW KEENA HOTEL.

939. THE GOLF CLUB.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

499

hopelessness of the renewal of strength. I was only a fortnight Vdapmaeu
at Nuwara Eliya. The rest-house was the perfection of every- '•^* *-'"•
thing that was dirty and uncomfortable. . The toughest possible ^^^^^ ^"y*
specimen of a beefsteak, black bread and potatoes, were the
choicest and only viands obtainable for an invalid. There was
literally nothing else; it was a land of starvation. But the
climate ! What can I say to describe the wonderful effects of
such a pure and unpolluted air? Simply, that at the expiration
of a fortnight, in spite of the tough beef and the black bread
and potatoes, I was as well and as strong as I ever had been ;
and in proof of this, I started instanter for another shooting
excursion in the interior.'*

When we remember that Nuwara Eliya is only six degrees cumate
north of the equator, and no more than 6,240 feet above the
sea, the mean temperature, which is only 57° Fahrenheit,
appears extraordinarily low. There is no doubt that this is
mainly due to the * geographical position of the island. Its
moderate dimensions expose it to the full influence of the
uniform temperature of the surrounding seas, while it is subject
to the direct rays of the sun only twelve hours out of the
twenty-four. The intense evaporation by day and the rapid
cooling by night are also two important factors in the climatic
peculiarities of the island.

Nuwara Eliya is an elliptical mountain valley, the plateau Geographical
being 6,240 feet above sea-level and about eight miles in cir- ^'^^^^^
cumference. It is surrounded by steep mountain ridges rising
to a height varying from a few hiindred to two thousand feet
above the plain. There are four gaps — that on the north-east
leading into the Kotmale valley, that on the south-east to the
province of Uva, that on the west to the Dimbula valley, and
that on the east to Kandapolla and Udapussellawa. The tops
themselves are for the most part thickly wooded, and still con-
stitute favourite haunts of the leopard and the elk. The plain
is charmingly undulated, and forms an admirable playground
for both residents and visitors. In this connection it boasts,
like so many other places, of the best golf-links out of Scotland,
and possesses an excellent race-course.

The bungalows of the residents are mostly built upon grassy
knolls at the foot of the mountains, arid are surrounded by
choice gardens not unfrequently bordered by hedgerows of
geraniums. Water of uninlpeachable purity flows from the
heights over picturesque waterfalls of great beauty. A purling
stream babbles through the middle of the valley, finally losing
itself in a lake which is surrounded by a well-constructed
carriage drive.

The Nuwara season extends from January to May, each
month having* a fair proportion of fine days, February being

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500

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Udapussel
lawa Line

Its season

the finest. On the whole, perhaps, March is the pleasantest.
June and July are the only months that should be altogether
NnwaraBiiya avoided on account of rain and wind. October is generally
very wet. But let it not be supposed that the merits of Nuwara
Eliya as a health resort disappear with the fine weather. It is
true that during the second half of the year rainy days are
prevalent, but the occasional bright spells intervening bring
the most glorious days of the year, and the worst that can be
said 'is that during this period it resembles a rather wet summer
in the Highlands of Scotland. Moderately w-arm days, with
a Scotch mist, followed by cool evenings that allure to the
cheerful fireside of a well-furnished and carpeted bungalow,
with intermittent days of sunshine, and a change within easy
distance to any temperate climate you may fancy, make up a
state of things not to be contemned even by those who are in
a position to humour their every whim.

Nuwara Eliya, indeed, supplies not only the energy needed
for vigorous exercise, but provides also, in addition to its
sporting facilities, innumerable walks that are unequalled in
their, attractions. Amongst them, the path to the summit of
puurutaiiagaiia Pidurutallagalla, 8,300 feet above the level of the sea, deserv'es
especial mention.

The ascent is easy and the reward great. From no other
mountain top in the world can you literally see over a whole
island of such extent and beauty as from this. From shore
to shore lie out-stretched in every direction forests and plains,
mountain ranges interlaced in intricate confusion, masses of
verdant patana lands, interspersed with glittering streams :
while the stillness of the profound solitude is broken only by
the sounds from mountain torrents in their wild rush over the
huge boulders in the rocky ravines. It is here, with the
accumulated impressions of the whole journey from the coast
to the highest point of the highlands fresh in his mind, that
the traveller confers on Ceylon the title of '* the show place of
the universe.*'

The journey to the top is about four miles, and a very good
two and a half hours* walk. The glorious exhilaration of the
pure and bracing air encourages residents in Nuwara Eliya to
make frequent excursions on this account alone. The prospect
varies so much under different atmospheric conditions that
every fresh trip is amply rewarded by the ever-changing scenes
that meet the gaze, while the cloud studies surpass even those
of Alpine countries.

But grandest of all is that beautiful scene which heralds the
approach of day. To stand upon the highest point of this
sea-girt land, with the shadowed sky above and brooding dark-
ness below, there to watch the rosy-fingered dawn cast her

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

503

Uwa Line
Nuwara EUya

Pidurutallagalla

first rays upon the thousand peaks that begin to peep through Udapossei.

the snowy mists which yet enshroud the low-lying valleys, is

an experience well worth the surrender of a few hours of

sleep and an occasional fright at midnight forest sounds which

betoken the proximity of some denizen .of the jungle. The

first glimmer of light reveals snowy masses of mist as far as

the eye can scan, right away to the ocean east and west, with

lighted peaks peering through the veil resembling laughing

islands dotting a sea of foam. Then as the dawn breaks a

golden tint gradually appears over the hills, and when the sun

bursts over the horizon a rapid transformation takes place.

The petrified surf of the mists now. begins to move upwards,

and reveals with vivid clearness the valleys all fresh from

their repose. The dewy leaves of the forest trees and the

trails of beautiful moss which cling to their branches glisten

with tints of gold, the moistened rocks sparkle with diamonds,

and all nature rejoices at the new-born day.

As the sun rises higher the nearer slopes become more
distinct, and the distant ranges are clearly visible right away
to Adam's Peak. The intermediate range of the Great Western
(7,264 feet), five miles west of Nuwara Eliya, and Talankanda
range (6,137 feet), dividing the tea-growing district^ of Dim-
bula and Dickoya, are seen most clearly as the rays of the
sun gain power.

Nuwara Eliya is lying at our feet. The whole plain glistens
with hoar frost or sparkling dew ; the river, like a silver streak,
winds its course to the Hakgalla gorge, and for a great dis-
tance ranges of forest-clad mountains alternate with waving
plains. TTie nearest range is that called after One Tree Hill,
then comes the Elk Plains range, the next is a mountain of
the Agra Patana district, and the lofty range in the distance
is that of Horton Plains. The tops of all these ranges are
clothed with forests, while rolling patanas cover the ridges
between.

As we descend in the broadening day we notice the great
contrast between the character of the Pidurutallagalla forest
and that of the lowlands. Instead of waving palms we see
weird trees with gnarled trunks and forked boughs, festooned
with long beards of lichen and orange moss. Many of the
trunks are clothed with rich green creepers and adorned with
the fantastic blooms of native orchids, and parasites innumer-
able bedeck the upper branches with strangest flowers, while
the magnificent Rhododendron arboreuniy with its great branches
and brilliant blossoms, appears everywhere as a common forest
tree.

An easy stroll of two miles brings us to the top of Naseby
Hill, commanding a wonderful view of the principal peaks of

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S04

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

UdapnsMi- the island. On a clear day Adam's Peak and Namuna-

Uwa Line kulakanda are both distinctively visible, although distant from
uwaraBUya ^^^^j^ other forty -seven miles in a direct line. But the chief
feature is. the charming character of the scenery immediately
surrounding the tea plantation which encircles the hill.

On the west the calm waters of the lake reflecting the
wooded hills and the lofty mountains recall memories of UUs-
water.

Lovers' Leap Q^ ^jjg ^^Lst is the prccipitous shouldcr of Pidurutallagalla,

known as Lovers* Leap, taking its name from the legend which
tells how a Kandyan prince became greatly attached to a
maiden of low caste. Upon the fact coming to the King's
knowledge, the lovers took to flight, and were pursued by
the King's soldiers to the mountain range of Pidurutallagalla.
Seeing no hope of escape, they preferred to be united in death
rather than in life to be divided, and in sight of their pursuers,
locked in a last embrace, leapt from this precipice.

From Naseby we see the best, outline of Hakgalla, and
obtain many pretty peeps across patana and forest in the
direction of the Moon Plains. Visitors to Naseby estate are
made welcome to the factory, which is a new one and equipped
most completely with the latest appliances for the manufac-
ture of tea; and many are the people who, when in the Old
Country they sip the cup that cheers, think of the romantic
spot where they witnessed the manufacture of the leaf that
brews it.

Moon Plains Beyond Naseby is a pretty drive round the Moon Plains,

so called from the number of moonstones found there. The
forests are here diversifted with patana land. The road round
the Moon Plains and across these patanas brings us to a
magnificent ravine, five hundred (eet sheer down from the road.
This is the most beautifully wooded gorge in the 'district. We
next come upon the Barrack Plains lake, which, owing to the
hills that surround it, resembles a loch of the Scotch Highlands.

Rambodde Pass Before we can be said to have taken a complete survey of

the general features of Nuwara Eliya we must take a walk to
the top of the northern gap or entrance to the Rambodde pass.
It is best for our purpose to walk, because such are the intricate
windings of the road that in rapid locomotion our attention is
apt to be diverted from the landscape to the dangers of our
immediate position. The golf links are first seen on our
right, and on the left the delightful grounds of the Governor's
residence. Thence we ascend by a steep gradient until the.
top is reached and the descent to Rambodde begins.

Although the European community is small, it cannot be
said that life is in the least degree monotonous to those w-ho
are fond of country pursuits. In addition to the wild sport of

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

507

the jungle, there ate many distractions, such as cricket, golf, Udapussci-

polo, hockey, and lawn-tennis. The lake is full of carp, and '"^"^^'''g,,

trout have been successfully introduced into the neighbouring ^uwara y«

streams, licences to fish in which are granted for any period.

The golf-links are now one of the chief attractions of the place,

and are the scene of many exciting contests. There is also Amusemems

a well laid out race-course, and the Jymkhana is quite the event

of the year. All Colombo flocks to Nuwara Eliya for the races,

and the sporting fever extends even to the ladies, who vie with

one another in the latest Parisian confections. Every bungalow,

hotel, and club is taxed to its utmost capacity. Many who

cannot find accommodation ride daily into the station, distances

of twenty and even thirty miles not being considered too great

even when followed by a dance at the end of the day. The

invigorating mountain air seems to banish all fatigue, and

nowhere is there more fun crammed into a single week than

amongst the genial society and vivacious spirits to be found

in Nuwara Eliya during the Jymkhana.

But of all the amusements in which Nuwara Eliya indulges <^o//
we must award golf the first place, because it has the largest
number of votaries. That this should be so nobody wonders
who sees the links and realises what a perfect golfing climate
Nuwara Eliya affords. For about six weeks out of the fifty-two
rain and wind seriously interfere, but for the rest of the time
there is nothing to detract from the full enjoyment of the game.
There are two links : one formed by the Nuwara Eliya Golf
Club, to which ladies are admitted on special days, and the other
a branch of the United Club for ladies and gentlemen. The
former offers one great contrast to the best links in the Old
Country in being charmingly picturesque. Its other points,
especially its hazards, are perhaps not quite orthodox ; but
whatever may be implied in the term ** links ** as conceived
by the best authorities, or required by the traditions of the
game, golf in Nuwara Eliya has attractions and affords enjoy-
ment that nowhere else can be surpassed.

As we cross the river at various points on the course many Fishing
a fine trout may be seen awaiting the fly. The very successful
fishing club at Nuwara Eliya is by no means tfie least of its
attractions to visitors, who can obtain licences for the day,
week or season. The club has leased from the Government
the fishing rights in all waters at an elevation of over five
thousand feet above sea level.

The United Club for ladies and gentlemen is a most sue- Uniudciub
cessful institution. It includes a library, reading-room, ball-
room, concert hall, golf links, croquet and lawn tennis courts.
Its quarters are situated in the midst of its courts and links
and command exceedingly pretty views. There is an excellent

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5o8 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

UdapuMcl- cricket pitch in front of the club-house, and although this once
UwaLine supremely popular game has to some extent suffered eclipse
NuwaraBiiya j^rough the introduction of golf and croquet, some first-rate
cricket is often played here. The sunny yet cool climate seems
to breed enthusiasm for sports and amusements of all kinds.
Bumblepuppy Jymkhanas are frequent, when the gentler sex
is especially to the fore in every sort of competition, from tilting^
at the ring to the driving race of geckoes, porcupines and all
manner of quaint animals. Dances at the club are frequent^
and indoor games with dances interspersed have been intro-
duced. The visitor for a short period has every opportunity of
joining in these amusements, and it is this welcome to the
stranger that I wish to impress upon those who have not visited
Ceylon. ** You must come up the wonderful mountain railw^ay
into the pure fresh air — ^away past Kandy, with its sacred
Buddhist relics, away to the lily garden of Nuwara Eliya, where
the scenery is as beautiful as at the Engadine and the air as
pure as at St. Moritz. . . . In all my travels I have not
met one single individual so far who has not voted enthusias-
tically for Ceylon as one of the most charming spots on earth.*'
Thus wrote Mr. Clement Scott fifteen years ago, and since that
time the attractions of Nuwara Efiya have greatly increased.
Hakgaiia We have already noticed the shallow gap on the mountain

heights, which forms the exit from Nuwara Eliya on the Uva
side. This gap leads to a lovely gorge, which extends to the
foot of the majestic Hakgaiia, where the clouds descend in
saturating mist during the wet season. This is the most
interesting drive in the neighbourhood. For five miles the
descent is steep. The precipitous crags have been cut away
for the construction of the road, which in its winding course
affords grand views of deep wooded ravines, covered with tree
ferns in wonderful variety, and teeming with waterfalls.

Beneath the rock, which in its form and outline is one of
the notable things in Ceylon, nestle the Hakgaiia Gardens.
While these gardens are no less than 5,400 feet above the sea,
this mighty crag towers above them to the height of a further
1,600 feet. Here is a spot famous for picnic breakfasts, usually
discussed in an arbour with an unbroken view of the plains
of Uva stretching far below.

The gardens, beautiful in themselves, owe much to their
situation, and are the seat of experiments in the acclimatisa-
tion of plants from temperate lands outside the tropics and
from the heights of other tropical countries. We are surprised
at the number of trees and shrubs, and the variety of fruits
and flowers that are rarely to be found in a tropical garden.
In addition to acclimatisation, the all-important work of ex-
tending and improving the various species of indigenous plants

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645 A SHELTERED CREEK IN HAKGALLA GARDENS.

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y,^^^'^

'»:«•'■ ^

646. NATIVE TREE FERNS AT HAKGALLA

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 5"

is carried on, in order that the natural resources of the country Udapussei-
may be utilised to the best advantage. In this place of practical '■^* *-'"*
science agricultural theories are translated into actual fact, and
provide invaluable material for the enterprise and initiative of
the colonist.

Although the main purpose is kept strictly in view, the Hakgaiia
gardens are planned with such excellent taste, and the natural
features of their situation are so romantic and beautiful, that
they form a great attraction to the unscientific spectator. The
ornamental creeks and pools ; the shrubberies planted with trees
of varied foliage ; the trickling streams from the mountain
tops, with their fringes of native ferns ; the ilametree blazing
above its trunk clad with cream-blossomed creepers ; rocky
beds covered with maidenhair ferns in the shade of spreading
trees with their lovely parasitic growth of orchids ; the hand-
some Pinus longifoliay with its four teen-inch leaves; the. hun-
dred kinds of roses ; the giant banana ; and even the true
English oak, as a good omen, keeping in countenance British
enterprise in this far-off land — these are a few of the many
features of unfailing interest to the casual observer.

In the body of the fernery the native tree ferns (Alsophila
criniia)y for which these gardens are celebrated, form a striking
group. The trunks are mostly eighteen to twenty feet high,
and the spreading fronds fifteen to twenty feet across. This
species is one of the most stately and graceful' of tree ferns,
and fine specimens are to be seen in every ravine. The unex-
panded fronds are a favourite food of the wild elephant, which
inhabits this locality in great numbers. In one respect this
fern resembles the cocoanut palm — it grows from the crown,
and the lower fronds die off as the new ones appear above.
Until they die off, they hang down the stem of the tree as in
the cocoanut, but with this difference, that whereas the frond
of the latter comes away entirely, leaving a ring mark upon
the trunk, the frond of the tree fern breaks off, leaving the base
of the stem on the pithy trunk as a sort of protection.

Kandapola (12m. 33c.). — Kandapola station, 6,316 feet Kandapoia
above sea level, has the distinction of being situated at the
highest elevation reached by the Ceylon Government Railway.
It marks the entrance into the planting district of Udapussd-
lawa, which, although in the central province, is really part
of the great mountain ledge popularly known as the Uvia
country, and is subject to the same conditions of climate as
Haputale and Bandarawela which we have already described.
So that in the wet season of Nuwara Eliya a dry and sunny
climate is very near at hand, being easily accessible by a short
railway journey. The line to Kandapola leaves Nuwara Eliya

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Udapussel-
lawa Line
Kandapola

6,316 feet

Brookslde

4,981 feet

Raflralla

5,818 feet

by the eastern gap, crosses the Barrack Plains, and winds up
a steep incline, sharing the carriage road for the greater part
of the distance.

On our way thither we shall pass through some estates
which, notwithstanding their great elevation, are famous alike
for their yield and the fine quality of their tea : Pedro after the
famous mountain where it is situated. Lovers' Leap after the
legend to which we have already made reference, Portswood,
and other estates of the Nuwara Eliya Company are all seen
earning their large dividends, the bushes seeming to enjoy the
cool atmosphere much more than do the miserable pluckers,
who, partially unclad, and by nature suited to withstand ex-
treme heat rather than cold, must in these altitudes suffer great
discomfort as compared with their fellow-workers in the lower
and warmer districts. But no sooner do we pass through the
gap into the Uva country than the temperature seems milder.
Our view (plate 649) is taken at the very entrance to the district.
The belts of gums and grevilleas which seem to divide the
estates into fields as do the hedges in the Old Country, indicate
the frequent prevalence of high winds, the effects of which, on
the tea, they are grown to minimise. We are soon aware that
the tea plant has here found a home that suits its requirements.
St. John's Estate, through which we are. passing, is a very-
picture of luscious hill-grown tea. It has some magnificent
bushes, the finest of which measures sixteen feet in diameter.

. Brookside (i6m. 45c.). — Between Kandapola and Brookside
the line descends thirteen hundred feet in four miles. This
station serves the estates around it, but has no special interest
for the visitor. The line again ascends as Ragalla is reached.

Ragalla (19m. 17c.). — Ragalla is at present (1907) the
terminus of this line which will doubtless some day be carried
much farther. Here there is a rest-house with the usual
appointments, where visitors can obtain food and lodging.

Visitors making a prolonged stay in Nuwara Eliya will find
a trip to Ragalla quite worth while. A whole day at least
should be given to it, and a walk or cycle ride should be taken
for a further four or five miles upon the carriage road that runs
through the district to the eastern end of the mountain ledge.
The scenery is exquisite, and in fine weather the atmosphere
is dry and bracing, while the temperature admits of brisk
exercise.

Those who live upon the few tea estates that extend to the
very edge of these highlands where the descent to the heated
plains of the low country is abrupt and precipitous are fre-
quently witnesses of atmospheric phenomena that are at once
terrible and magnificent. The sun is shining upon the smiling

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647. KANDAPOLA STATION 6,316 FEET ABOVE
SEA LEVEL.

648. THE UDAPUSSELLAWA RAILWAY NEAR KANDAPOLA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Udapussel-
lawa Line

gardens of tea at an elevation of five thousand feet from which
the spectator sees the olive green patanas in soft and sym-
metrical curves rolling away to the borders of the tender green
paddy fields of the lower slopes. Away in the distance lies the
Bintenne country with its undulated land of forest and jungle,
the retreat of the elephant, leopard and bear, and stretching
away in a blue haze to the sea coast. Deep violet shadows are
playing upon the lower foothills in constantly changing forms
as masses of cloud pass over them. Presently the vapours
gather in dense masses enshrouding in semi-darkness one
sequestered valley. Suddenly a streak of fire passes through
the leaden sky, a faint rumbling reaches our ears, the darkened
mass momentarily changes to a lurid glow only to appear more
blackened by the flame. Then, as if a vast cistern were sud-
denly perforated in a myriad places it simply ** rains ramrods ''
for a quarter of an hour, the frequent flashes of vivid lightning
affording the spectator a view of the deluge descending upon
the little valley whose vegetation recovers from the bombard-
ment almost as suddenly as it had been attacked, and thrives
amazingly as the result ; for although not very distant from
the cool and bracing region from w-hich it has been witnessed,
that little dale is a veritable hothouse.

649. UDAPUSSELLAWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON.

PART III.

THE NORTHERN PROVINCES.

THE NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY.
From Polgahawela Junction to Kangesanturai.

THE northern line which branches off from the main line at
Polgahawela affords the traveller every facility for visiting
the chief of Ceylon's antiquities, its oldest ruined city Anurad-
hapura ; it also renders easily accessible the interesting penin-
sula of Jaflfna-, until quite recently so isolated from the capital
that communication was possible only by sea or a most uncom-
fortable three or four days' journey by cart road. But the
interest of the visitor centres in the supreme attraction of
Anuradhapura, whose remains are, as we shall see later,
amongst the greatest wonders of the world.

The itinerary from Colombo to Polgahawela has already
been described, and we shall now proceed to the first station
of the northern branch.

PoTUHERA (7m. 53c.). — It will be sufficiently evident that
we are here again in the midst of tea, cacao, arecas, cocoanuts,
paddy, betel, kurakkan, tamarinds, plantains, limes and sweet
potatoes. VVe see them all flourishing in the native gardens,
and especially the plantains, tons of which are daily despatched
to distant markets. The village is a very small one ; but
boasts of a large number of ancient wihdres due to the circum-
stance that Kurunegala, only six miles distant, became the seat
of government after the final overthrow of Polonnaruwa in the
early part of the fourteenth century.

Northern
Line

Potuhera

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5i6 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern Line KuRUNEGALA (13m. 15C.). — Kurunegala is now the capital
KurunegaU of the North Western Province, and the centre of an important
agricultural district, which has during the last twenty years
risen by leaps and bounds to a condition of great prosperity.
Not only has the capitalist greatly extended the cultivation of
cocoanuts where a few years ago all was jungle inhabited only
by the elephant ; but the villager, stimulated by example and
the encouragement of a paternal government, has awakened
to the prolific possibilities of his higher lands, and has added
other products to his hitherto exclusive paddy cultivation. The
result is not only a great increase of wealth ; but a decided
improvement in health also ; for Kurunegala was not many
years ago dreaded for its own special type of malarial fever
that almost always attacked the new-comer and which greatly
distressed the natives during the dry weather immediately
following on the rains, when vegetation rotted in the swamps.
Now that so much of the country has been cleared of its rank
vegetation for cultivation great improvement is manifest, and
it is hoped that in course of time Kurunegala fever will be
unknown. The town, which has a population of about 7,000,
is beautifully situated and possesses an ornamental lake of
about one hundred acres. The fine residence of the Govern-
ment Agent, still known as the Maligawa (palace), is on the
site of the ancient royal palace. A few years ago its grounds
were strewn with remains of the original building ; but the
most interesting of them have now been deposited in the
Colombo museum.

The natural features of Kurunegala are extremely pic-
turesque, and possess some characteristics that' are peculiar.
Behind the town there stretches for some miles a series ot
enormous rocks rising to upwards of eight hundred feet from
the plain. They are eight in number, and six of them bear
distinctive names of animals which their curious shapes have
been supposed to represent. These are the Elephant, Tortoise,
Beetle, Eel, Goat and Crocodile. There are also two others
known as the Gonigala or Sack rock, and the Yakdessagala
or She-demon's Curse ; the latter rising to 1,712 feet above sea -
level.*

These rocks doubtless influence in some degree the tempera-
ture of the air at Kurunegala ; but less than is generally
supposed. The heat is very much the same as at Colombo,
averaging 80° Fahr. The most interesting of the rocks may
be climbed, and the reward is commensurate with the effort

* The subject of these curious rocks is dealt with at length by Mr.
Frank H. Modder, F.R.G.S.. in the Royal Asiatic Society's Journal (Ceylon
branch), Vol. XI., No. 40. Also see Handbook to Kurunegala by the same
author.

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650. THE PROLIFJC POSSIBILITIES OF THE LAMD.

651. KURUNE6ALA

sCtNE NEAR THE DISTRICT COURT.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Kurunegala

Kuveni

Northern Line demanded, the .surroundings country exhibiting' its tropical flora
^ ^^ better advantage than when seen from the g-reater heights.

On the Tortoise rock (Ibbagala), which is approached from
the Kachcheri within the town, there is an interesting temple
situated beneath an overhanging ledge ; a portion of the rock
does duty as the * roof and is gorgeously painted with the
Buddhist conventional portraits, flowers, and various other
designs. The temple contains a large number of images of the
Buddha and his disciples. In the precincts are a dagaha and a
copy of the impression of Buddha's footprint upon Adam's Peak.
The Elephant rock (Etagala), which adjoins the Tortoise,
is the favourite resort of visitors and residents alike. It affords
delightful views of the town, the lake and the more distant
country. While all these rocks have their legends and tradi-
tions none exceeds in historical interest the She-demon's Curse
(Yakdessagala), the last and most striking of the whole series.
Upon this solitary eminence which rises seventeen hundred feet
above the level of the sea, native imagination places the tragic
scene of Kuveni calling upon the gods to avenge her. The
spot is worthy of the story. Wijaya, the first king of the great
dynasty which had its beginning in the sixth century before this
era, having been expelled from the court of his father, a king
whose principality was on the adjoining continent, came to
Ceylon with a large following as a wandering prince. Here
he espoused Kuveni, a princess of the Yakkhos or aboriginal
inhabitants by whose aid he was installed in the sovereignty
of the island. With cruel ingratitude he then discarded Kuveni
in favour of an Indian princess. The forsaken queen re-
proached him with the following agonising lamentation :
** When shipwrecked and forlorn I found thee and thy
followers food and accommodation. I aided thee in defeat-
ing the Yakkhos and in rising to be king. Swearing fidelity,
thou tookest me as thy spouse. Didst thou not then know
that I was a Yakkini? Loving thee with an unquenchable
love, I bore thee children. How canst thou separate from
me to-day and transfer thy affections to another? The mild
rays of the rising full moon are now to me like the blaze of
a heated iron ; the once cool and spicy breeze from the sandal
forest is hot and unwelcome to me ; the bed once spread with
fragrant flowers is covered with briars and thorns ; even the
sweet song of the kokila pierces my ear as with a spear.
Alas! how can I soothe my troubled breast?" With this
lamentation she entered the forest, and ascending to the peak
of Yakdessagala in agonised shrieks called upon the gods to
avenge her wrongs. Kuveni upon the embattled peak with
outstretched hand r-'pplirating the ods is a fine situation and
is a credit to SinhaleF*^ ivention.

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.652. KURUNEGALA: VIEW FROM THE ELEPHANT ROCK.

653. KURUNEGALA: ELEPHANT Rv, "K FROM THE LAKE.

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654. GAME WATTE STATION.

655. BULLOCK CARTS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

521

Wellawa (19m. i8c.). — At Wellawa the aspect of the Northern
country already begins to change, and products that we have ^'"*
not hitherto met with are noticed ; amongst them tobacco and w*"*^*
hemp. The village of about 1,500 inhabitants is under a
Ratemahatmaya who pays a monthly visit of inspection, while
minor judicial causes are dealt with by a Gansabawa president
at fortnightly sessions. The landscape is enriched by the
Yakdessagala, to which we have referred, and Dolukanda peak.
Fair sport in snipe, deer and hare may be obtained. The neat
little railway station of two. stories, with its flower garden
extending along the platform, will be noticed.

Ganewatte (26m. 39c.). — As we approach Ganewatte the a«newatte
little paddy farms, which have been observed amongst the
greater stretches of waste land covered with natural . jungle,
gradually become fewer, and it is evident that we are enter-
ing a sparsely populated region. There is a rest-house at
Hiripitiya, about a mile from the station, which is useful to
the sportsman. It is, however, necessary to order provisions
in advance or take them.

For about twelve miles from Ganewatte the country on
either side of the railway appears to be waterless and uncul-
tivated, until about four miles from Maho a large pond is
passed. Here the signs of life are storks and water fowl.
Paddy fields again appear, and cart roads are in evidence on
both sides of the line suggesting a centre of some importance
amongst the wilds.

Maho (40m. 3c.). — The railway here brings within easy Maho
reach of the antiquarian the remains of another royal city,
Yapahuwa, which is situated about three miles from Maho
station. Yapahuwa was the retreat of the reigning sovereign
Bhuvaneka Bahu I. after the downfall of Polonnaruwa, and
remained the capital for eleven years from 1303. The most
interesting of the remains have been removed to the Colombo
museum, and amongst them a stone window with forty-five
circular perforations within which are sculptured symbols and
figures of dancers and animals, the whole being carved out
of a single slab of granite. It shows the great artistic skill
of the period and gives a clue to the lavish architectural decora-
tion employed in beautifying the city, notwithstanding the
troublous times. But Yapahuwa soon met with a fate even
worse than Polonnaruwa; for the Pandyan invaders not only
overthrew it, but captured and carried off to India the national
palladium, the tooth of Buddha.

Travellers can obtain single or double bullock carts at

Maho at very moderate rates of hire. The only accommodation

in the neighbourhood is the rest-house at Balalla about three

2 I

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522

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Nortkcrn Line miles distant. It is necessary to take what food may be
required or order it in advance. The climate being exceedingly
hot a plentiful supply of aerated waters should also be taken
as the water of the district is not always to be trusted.

Ambanpoia Ambanpola (47m. 2IC.). — As we approach Ambanpola the

dense scrub gives place to more open country and the forest
trees become finer. Upon reaching the river Mioya over which
we pass upon approaching Galgamuwa some excellent timber
will be noticed, indicating increased fertility due to a more
ample supply of water. But upon proceeding further north we
are soon again in stunted scrub which renders the journey
monotonous as compared with our experiences on the railways
further south.

Qaifamuwa Galgamuwa (53m. 40C.). — ^The country around Galgamuwa

abounds in artificial lakes or tanks constructed for purposes
of irrigation, one of which will be noticed quite close to the
station. By means of these a considerable acreage of land
is brought under cultivation ; the products are, however, quite
diiferent from those with which we are already familiar, the
chief of them being gingelly, chillies, kurrakan, gram and
cotton. There are eighteen irrigation tanks in the neighbour-
hood, around and about which birds are plentiful ; snipe, golden
plover and teal aifording good sport. Large game too abounds
in the forest, including leopard, deer, pig, elephant, and bear.
There is a rest-house within a mile of the station where the
traveller will find the usual accommodation. Provisions should
be taken or ordered in advance.

Taiawa Talawa (71m. 75c.).— Talawa has no special interest for the

visitor, and no accommodation beyond that afforded by the
railway station. Its possibilities in the direction of cotton cul-
ture are being put to the test by the government, who have
established an experimental station here.

AnuradhipurA Anuradhapura (8im. 2IC.). — Anurddhapurd is the capital
of the North Central Province and the seat of a Government
Agent ; but beyond this it is a place of supreme interest to
the visitor and is consequently provided with considerable
accommodation for the traveller. The rest-house is spacious
and comfortable,, and a good hotel has recently been added.
It cannot, however, be said that these are sufficient at all times,
and it is quite necessary for the intending visitor to secure
rooms before proceeding on the journey. Professional guides
and conveyances may be obtained.

The city is on a level plain, about three hundred feet above
the sea, and possesses a warm but not uncomfortable climate,
the mean temperature being 80° Fahr. The rains extend from

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ANURADHAPURA

Map showing the positions of the
Principal Ruins.

Pavilioma with M»«Haiottea
tmdsai^phndn^fb^mr steps

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524

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The itory of
the city

AnurMhApurA October to December. January is often a very pleasant month,
but liable to showers. February is generally most pleasant,
while March and April are rather warmer. Fine weather and
wind characterise the months of July and August. But the
weather seldom interferes with the visitor, as even in the wet
season fine intervals are frequent and enjoyable.

The account of Anurddhdpurd given in these pages is in-
tended mainly to excite the interest of the traveller or to
quicken that which has already been aroused before he pro-
ceeds to make a personal acquaintance with the ruins. It is
mainly extracted from my previous work upon the subject,*
which has so far justified its existence that I am encouraged
here to repeat the story as far as space will admit.

For guidance and reference in making the round of the
antiquities of this whilom mighty capital the tourist should
obtain the excellent little manual entitled ** A Guide to the
Ancient Capitals of Ceylon," by Mr. John Still, the Assistant
Archaeological Commissioner of Ceylon, which is locally pro-
curable. It is an invaluable work that will enlighten the tourist
upon details about which he may be curious and direct him to
many interesting spots beyond the scope of this book. It con-
tains, moreover, a concise but charmingly written history of
the ancient Sinhalese nation.

The history of Anurddhdpurd is intimately connected with
the religion of Buddha, and the building of the monuments
which we are about to survey was directly due to the adoption
of that cult by the Sinhalese nation in the third century before
Christ. With the prior condition of the country we shall
concern ourselves only so far as to inquire who or of what race
were the Sinhalese, and what were the circumstances that led
to their unanimous reception of a new creed with such fervour
as is evidenced by the remains of their sacred buildings and
literature.

Before the dawn of civilisation in India, when as yet the
Sanskrit speaking Aryans of the north had not emerged from
obscurity, the whole country was peopled by half-savage races
in various stages of barbarism. Some of these aborigines
settled in Ceylon, where a few scattered tribes even still remain.
Shunning every opportunity of contact with other races, they
still dwell in the forest, where they live on the produce of the
chase, display the most elementary notions of religion in the
form of snake and demon worship, and exercise powers of
reason very little superior to those of the lower animals with
whom they share the rocks and caves of districts otherwise
forsaken. They are referred to in the ancient literature of the

♦ "The Ruined Cities of Ceylon." by Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S..
M.R.A.S., 4th edition. Hutchinson & Co., London, 1907.

History- 0/
the ruins

The aborigines

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 525

country with much contempt as Yakkas, or barbarians. Their AnurMhilpttHi

conquerors seem to have forced them to slave labour on the

tanks constructed in very early times, but there is no reference

to them after the third century a.d., and it may be inferred

from this and the exclusive barbarous condition of the small

remnants of the tribe that they became entirely cut off from

the Sinhalese after a short period of subjection.

A few categorical statements regarding the origin of the Origin of the
Sinhalese race will serve our purpose better than the introduc- ^^'^ ^"*
tion of debatable matter and the myths of the early chronicles.
The Sinhalese were Aryan settlers from North-Central India,
and their language was closely affiliated to Pali, a dialect of
the Sanskrit which was cultivated by the Aryan invaders of
Central India. They settled in Ceylon some centuries before
the Buddhist conversion. We know little of their history at
this early period ; for although the ancient chroniclers professed
acquaintance with the minutest details relating to their arrival
and settlement in the island, the accounts given are purely
mythical. The Mahawansa, a native chronicle that gives many
valuable and interesting accounts of later times, indulges in
extravagant legends in dealing with the national history
anterior to the third century B.C. It begins with the story of
the arrival of Wijaya, a Sinhalese prince, who with his fol-
lowers is made the hero of adventures so similar to those of
Ulysses and Circe in the Odyssey that the chronicler has by
some been supposed to have been acquainted with the Homeric
poems.

Fortunately, however, we arrive on further ground early
enough for our purpose of tracing the history of the ancient
cities, and all that we need to notice of times prior to their
foundation is the simple fact that the Sinhalese were in
possession of the country, much of which they had brought
under cultivation, aided by works of irrigation, an art which
they appear to have acquired in prehistoric times. It is safe,
moreover, to assume that for some centuries before the arrival
of Mahinda, who brought them tidings of the new religion
about the year B.C. 307, they had developed resources which
were soon to be employed in the building of those great cities,
the remains of which we have discovered two thousand years
later, and which will take their place among the greatest
wonders of the world.

Lastly, it may be safely asserted that the national religion
previous to the introduction of Buddhism was Brahman.

It is, however, a great thing that the period of the erection
of the buildings whose remains now stand before us falls within
the domain of authentic history. Not a single building or
sculptured stone has been found that does not come within this

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526 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AnurftdhApurA period, and it is remarkable that in India no relic of ancient
architecture has been discovered of a date anterior to that' of
the ruined cities of Ceylon, while the history of the latter is
infinitely clearer and more reliable than that of the adjoining^
continent, a circumstance due to the careful preservation by the
Sinhalese of the olas on which the events of very early times
were inscribed.

Mihinuie Mihintale first claims our attention because here began the

Buddhist influence, the efficient cause of all the constructive
energy which the Sinhalese displayed in the erection of their
vast cities and monuments. Eight miles to the east of the
sacred part of the city of Anurddhdpurd the rocky mountain,
now called Mihintale, rises abruptly from the plain to the
height of a thousand feet. Its slopes are now covered with
dense forest from the base almost to the summit, with the
exception of the space occupied by a grand stairway of granite
slabs which lead from the level plain to the highest peak.
These steps, one thousand eight hundred and forty in number,
render easy an ascent which must have been originally very
toibome. They are laid on the eastern side, which is the least
steep, the southern face being almost precipitous. • Our illus-
trations (Plates 6G3 and 658) depict one of the lower and the
topmost flights. The last hundred and fifty steps, as seen in
plate 658, are hewn in the solid rock, and at the top is visible
the north-east side of the ruined Etwehera dagaba.

At first sight this picture conveys only the impression of a
natural hill with precipitous sides covered with vegetation, and
were not curiosity aroused by the flight of steps and the robed
monk descending, the dagaba might easily escape notice. A
closer ^examination, however, reveals the existence of the ruined
edifice that crowns the summit of the mountain. Near it there
are other dagabas of great size. One, called the Maha Seya
(see Plate 659), is placed in a position whence grand views of
the surrounding country are obtained. The summit of this can
be reached by the adventurous climber, and the exertion, if not
the danger, is well repaid by the striking spectacle of the ruined
shrines of. Anurddhdpurd rising above a sea of foliage, and the
glistening waters of the ancient artificial lakes relieving the
immense stretches of forest. For twenty centuries this mass of
brickwork defied the destructive tooth of time and the dis-
integrating forces of vegetable growth ; but a few years ago it
showed signs of collapse on the west face, and underwent some
repairs by the Ceylon Government. Our illustration presents
a near view from the south, showing the portion cleared of
vegetation and repaired. Some idea of the prc^>ortion of this
dagaba may be gathered by noticing that what appears to be
grass upon the upper portion of the structure is in reality a

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659. THE MAHA 8EYA.

660. ROCK DWELLINOa

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 529

mass of forest trees that have grown up from seeds dropped Mihintale
by birds.

The whole mountain is literally covered with interesting
remains sacred to the memory of Mahinda, the royal apostle
of Buddha in Ceylon, but before proceeding to explore them
an acquaintance should be made with the mission of Mahinda,
as recorded in the ancient writings. Moreover, it may not
be assumed with safety that every one who takes up this
volume is acquainted with the early history of Buddhism,
and consequently the story of Mahinda must be prefaced
by a brief account of the origin of the cult which he intro-
duced, and of the circumstances which led to its adoption
in Ceylon.

In the sixth century B.C. the Aryans already inhabited the The Aryans
valley of the Ganges, and were divided into various tribes, * ' ^^
one of the least of which was that of the Sakyans, who dwelt
some hundred miles north-east of Benares. Of this race was
Gotama, the founder of Buddhism, his father being chief of
the clan, which possessed an influence out of all proportion to
its number. Gotama. very early cho§e the life of a mendicant,
left his home, and went on foot to Benares to teach the prin-
ciples of his philosophy. His system appealed to the Indian
mind, and he soon obtained numerous followers. His doctrines
were accepted with enthusiasm, probably because they were
found to be better suited to the needs of the people of the time
than those hitherto prevailing.

■ About two hundred miles east of Benares were the states of
Magadha. Thither the fame of Gotama 's teaching soon spread,
and the king, Bimbisara, repairing to the presence of Gotama,
became a convert. This royal patronage soon, led to the wide
popularity of the religion of the Sakyan philosopher, and multi-
tudes including the most revered ascetics of the kingdom,
adopted its tenets.

We have not much reason to discuss here the principles of Buddhism
Buddhism as introduced by Gotama, except for the purpose of
arriving at the origin of the influence which led to the building
of the sacred cities. It will, however, be useful to. note briefly
the main features of the system, which presupposes the doctrine
of transmigration.

A biiddha is a being who has passed through countless lives
and has in each successive re-birth added something to his
merits, by which he ultimately becomes endowed with super-
natural powers. Upon attaining buddhahood, which is the
supreme phase of existence, the buddha is enabled to direct all
beings to the path that leads to final extinction. At his death
he ceases to exist; but his precepts are regarded as laws of
religion. Buddhas appear only at intervals of time inconceiv-

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530

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Miliiatale

Buddhist
doctrine

Magadha

ably vast. The broad outline of the Buddha's teaching is
contained in the four dogmas — -
(i) Existence is sorrow;

(2) Desire for existence is the cause of sorrow ;

(3) The cessation of sorrow is effected by the eradication of

desire ;

(4) The way of living which leads to the extinction of sorrow

is the practice of right faith, right resolve, right
speech, right action, right living, right effort, right
recollectedness, and right meditation, according to the
example of the Buddha.
The effect of entirely eliminating desire is final extinction.
Unless existence is dissolved by the total destruction of desire
le-birth takes place, thus perpetuating sorrow; and, in propor-
tion as Buddhist precepts have been observed or disregarded,
so is the re-birth favourable or otherwise. The wicked suffer
retribution by unfavourable transmigration, and all beings
good or bad pass through an endless succession of lives unless
freed from existence by the attainment of a clear insight into
the causes of sorrow and the practice of the life that sets them
free.

These were the doctrines introduced by the Buddha in the
sixth century b.c. However they may be regarded to-day,
they were undoubtedly superior to those of Brahmanism, and
their ready adoption by millions of people shows how suited
they were to the Indian mind.

At the time of Gotama's death, about B.C. 477, the Magad-
han state was one of small prestige, but during the two
centuries that followed it became a powerful empire, with the
march of which the Sakyan*s teaching kept time. The brother-
hoods formed by his followers during his lifetime practised the
course of life that he taught, and thus by example and tradition
the system . spread and descended from one generation to
another.

The great teacher left no writings to guide his adherents,
but soon after his death his teachings were collected under the
authority of Councils of the Community, and to these were
added the records of all his words and deeds that could be
garnered for the instruction and example of posterity.

In the early part of the third century B.C. the Greeks invaded
India, an event of no small importance to the future of Bud-
dhism. The Magadhan state received the support of the
invaders, with the result that it soon became a mighty empire
embracing nearly the whole of India ; and the ruler of this vast
domain, Asoka, was an earnest patron of Buddhism. He wasr
originally a Brahman, but upon his conversion he became a
very zealot for the new faith, sending missionaries to many

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

531

The monarchs
Asokaand Tissa

countries, and amongst them his son, Prince Mahinda, who was Mihintale
sent to Ceylon, the field of labour to which his training was
especially directed.

The Sinhalese, as we have already said, were of the same
race as the Magadhans, and it is reasonable to suppose that
they spoke the same language. Moreover, the monarchs of
the two countries were on terms of friendship. Tissa, the
Sinhalese king, who had upon coming to the throne succeeded
to very great wealth, despatched ambassadors to his friend
Asoka with costly presents. That monarch, in acknowledging
the treasures, sent many valuable gifts to Tissa in return,
accompanied by the following exhortation : — ** I have taken
refuge in Buddha, his religion, and his priesthood; I have
avowed myself a devotee in the religion of the descendant* of
Sakya. Ruler of men, imbuing thy mind with the conviction
of the truth of these supreme blessings, with unfeigned faith
do thou also take refuge in this salvation.*'

Upon this Mahinda proceeded to Ceylon to follow up the Mahinda
above message with personal appeals. His meeting with the ^w^^^^ ^^"^
king at Mihintale is described in the Mahawansa with a wealth
of picturesque incident in which a sprinkling of signs and
wonders authenticates the importance of his mission. The
portion which bears the test of reason, and which from con-
temporary e\'idence may in substance be accepted, tells of
Mahinda 's arrival upon the mountain of Mihintale, accompanied
by a few monks. Here they met the king out hunting with a
large retinue, and Mahinda thus addressed his majesty : ** We
are the ministers and disciples of the Lord of the true faith : in
compassion for thee, Maharajah, we have repaired hither.'*
The king, recollecting the message of his friend Asoka, was
convinced that they were ministers of the faith. Laying aside
his bow and arrow, he conversed graciously with them. See-
ing the other members of the mission, he inquired, ** Whence
come these? '* ** With me," replied Mahinda. Then the king
asked if there were any other priests like unto them, to which
Mahinda replied, ** Jambudipa itself glitters with yellow robes;
there the disciples of Buddha, who have fully acquired the
three sanctifications, who are perfect masters of the knowledge
which procures bliss, the saints who have the gift of prophecy
and divination, are numerous.'* For the purpose of ascertain-
ing the capacity of the king, Mahinda interrogated him ; and as
he propounded question after question the monarch solved
them satisfactorily. The king having been proved capable of
understanding, a discourse on Buddhist doctrine was delivered,
and he and his train were then and there converted.

King Tissa rejoices exceedingly to find that Mahinda is the
son of his friend the emperor, and invites him to the capital.

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532

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

MihinUle

Remains

Inscriptions

Naga
Pokuna

Then follows the conversion of the queen and her attendants
and the reception of Buddhism by the whole nation.

With this sketch of the causes which led to the veneration
of the sacred localities and the foundation of their buildings,
we must resume our inspection of the remains at Mihintale.
King Tissa's conversion was commemorated by a great wihdre
or monastery erected on the very spot, and by the construction
of a large number of monastic dwellings in the rock, the
remains of which are amongst the most interesting features of
the mountain at this day. After the completion and establish-
ment of the monastery, the building of the grand stairway was
begun, and continued for generations by pious pilgrims.
Meanwhile many a shrine was added by successive monarchs
to the memory of the great Mahinda till the mountain ^vas
literally covered with sacred buildings. In the solid granite
of the steeper slopes were engraved the instructions for the
priests, dealing with every detail of their life and every item of
ceremonial observance.

• These inscriptions, which are still legible, tell us that none
who destroyed life in any way were permitted to live near the
mountain ; special offices were allotted to various servants and
workmen ; accounts were to be strictly kept and examined at
an assembly of priests; certain allowances of money to ever>'
person engaged in the temple service were made for the
purchase of flowers, so that none might appear without an
offering ; cells are assigned to the readers, expounders, and
preachers; hours of rising, of meditation, and of ablution are
prescribed ; careful attention to food and diet for the sick is
enjoined ; there are instructions to servants of every kind,
warders, receivers of revenue, clerks, watchmen, physicians,
surgeons, laundrymen, and others, the minuteness of detail
giving an excellent idea of the completeness of arrangement
for the orderly and beautiful keeping of the venerated locality.

Amongst other interesting remains on the mountain is the
Naga Pokuna or snake bathing pool. This is hewn out of the
solid rock, and is one hundred and thirty feet in length and of
extremely picturesque appearance. On the rock which over-
hangs one side of the pool is an immense five-hooded cobra
carved in high relief. Having regard to the role of protector
assigned to the cobra in the ancient legend, this monster, with
his hood spreading fully six feet across, doubtless possessed
prophylactic virtues, which were assisted by the ceremonial
ablutions for which this weird and mysterious looking bath
was constructed (Plate 66 1).

Amongst the best preserved relics is the Ambastdla Dagaba
which enshrines the ashes of Mahinda, who ended his days on
the spot where his successful mission began. The shrine

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661. NAQA POKUNA.

662. THE AMBASTAlA DAGABA.

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663. GRANITE STAIRWAY AT MIHINTALE.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

535

marks, it is said, the very piece of ground where the first meet- Mihintale
ing of the monarch Tissa and the royal missionary took place.
It is built of stone instead of the usual brick, and is surrounded
by fifty slender octagonal pillars with sculptured capitals.

In the vicinity of this dagaba a narrow path leads to one Mahinda's
of the most interesting of all the ancient remains on the moun- '
tain, a rock-hewn couch, upon a narrow and precipitous ledge,
known as Mahinda's bed. Though there is nothing at first
sight to suggest repose, it may well be credited that to this
lonely spot the apostle was wont to retreat to renew in the con-
templation of the vista spread out beneath him that spiritual
fire that may have been burning low after a prolonged contact
with the world. Certainly the view is one of majestic grandeur.
For some hundreds of feet ledge .after ledge supports huge fallen
boulders of granite, while the forest below extends to the. sea
in an expanse unbroken save by a few patches of rice which
pleasantly relieve the monotony and add colour to the landscape.

We have exhausted all the space that can here be devoted
to Mihintale ; but the enthusiastic student of antiquities might
spend weeks in exploring the very numerous remains upon this
mountain, which at present has not been dealt with by the
Archaeological Commission. The road from Anurddhdpurd is
good, and the rest-house affords comfortable accommodation.
Mihintale, moreover, appeals to the adventurous spirit, for the
bear, the leopard, and the elephant inhabit its jungles, although
they are never seen upon the beaten track. The monks, how-
ever, who are silently preparing for Nirvana in the solitude of
the more distant cells, are not infrequently disturbed by the
roar of the leopard, the trumpeting of the elephant,' or the
angry growl of the bear. •

At Anurddhdpurd we shall see the remains of many build- ^fahamega
ings which were erected by Tissa as a result of his conversion.
These will be found in that part of the city which was at the
time of Mahinda*s visit the Mahamega, or king^s pleasure
garden. The tradition is that the report of Bimbisara, king
of Magadha, having presented • his own pleasure garden to
Buddha and of its being accepted by him for the use of the
priests had reached the ears of Tissa, and in imitation of this
pious example he dedicated the Mahamega to sacred purposes.
This garden of twenty square miles in extent was in the centre
of the royal city. The gift was important, as signifying the
royal protection extended to the new religion, and like all
matters of special interest it received much attention from the
ancient chronicler, as may be seen by the following extract
from the Mahawansa : —

** In the morning, notice having been previously given
beat of drums, the celebrated capital, the road to the ther^ s

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536

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Gift of the
Mahamega

664. THE MAHAMEGA. OR KING'S PLEASURE GARDEN.

(chief priest's) residence, and the residence itself on all sides,
having been decorated, the lord of chariots, decked in all the
insignia of royalty, seated in his chariot, attended by hfs
ministers and the women of the palace, arid escorted by the
martial array of his realm, repaired to the temple constructed
by himself, accompanied by this great procession.

** There, having approached the theras worthy of venera-
tion and bowed down to them, proceeding together with the
theras to the upper ferry of the river, he made his progress,
ploughing the ground with a golden plough to mark the limits
for the consecration. The superb state elephants, Mahapaduma
and Kunjara, were harnessed to the golden plough. Beginning
at the first Kuntamalaka, this monarch, sole ruler of the people,
accompanied by the theras^ and attended by the four constituent
hosts of his military array, himself held the half of the plough.

** Surrounded by exquisitely painted vases, carried in pro-
cession, and gorgeous flags ; trays containing sandal dust ;
mirrors with gold and silver handles ; baskets borne down by
the weight of flowers ; triumphal arches made of plantain trees,
and females holding up umbrellas and other decorations ;
excited by the symphony of every kind of music ; encompassed

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PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TOP OF THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.

Mahamega

by the martial might of his empire ; overwhelmed by the shouts Dedication
of gratitude and festivity which welcomed him from the four 9.0¥
quarters of the earth ; — this lord of the land made his progress,
ploughing and exhibiting furrows, amidst enthusiastic acclama-
tions, hundreds of waving handkerchiefs, and the exultations
produced by the presentation of superb offerings.

** The eminent saint, the Mahathera, distinctly fixed the
points defining the boundary, as marked by the furrows made
by the king's plough. Having fixed the position for the
erection of thirty-two sacred edifices, as well as the Thuparama
dagaha, and having, according to the forms already observed,
defined the inner boundaries thereof, this sanctified person on
that same day completed the definition of all the boundary lines.
At the completion of the junction of the sacred boundary line
the earth quaked.'*

Having thus dedicated the royal precincts of the city to
religious purposes, Tissa*s next object was to hallow them by
the presence of a relic of the Buddha himself.

Here again we plunge into myth of the highest order to
obtain a grain or two of actual fact. We accept as authentic
the statement that the Thuparama was the first of the large

'J I

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^^^^1^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^

»- JP^L

666. BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE THUPARAMA.

667. THE THUPARAMA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 539

shrines built upon this sacred ground, and that it was erected AnurMMpunl

by King Tissa. It is quite likely, too, that he endeavoured to The Thuparama

procure a true relic of the Buddha, and that he sent to his t^^reiic"""'

friend the Emperor Asoka to obtain one ; but a simple recital

of such a proceeding would be quite unworthy of the oldest

shrine in Ceylon ; and so Tissa is said to have had recourse to

supernatural means to obtain the needful relic, and to have

asked the gods themselves for .the right collar bone of the

Buddha. A nephew of Mahinda was chosen for the mission,

and instructed to address the Emperor Asoka as follows ;

** Maharajah, thine ally Tissa, now . converted to the faith of

Buddha, is anxious to build a dagaha. Thou possessest many

corporeal relics of the Muni ; bestow some of those relics, and

the dish used at his meals by the divine teacher.** He was

next to proceed to Sakka, the chief of the Ddvas, and .thus

address him : ** King of D^vas, thou possessest the right canine

tooth relic, as well as the right collar. bone relic, of the deity

worthily worshipped by the three worlds : continue to worship

that tooth relic, but bestow the collar bone of the divine teacher.

Lord of D^vas ! demur not in matters involving the salvation

of the land of Lanka.** The relic was surrendered by the gods

and conveyed to Anuridhdpurd, where it performed many

miracles before it reached the receptacle in the Thuparama.

Its concluding feat was to rise from the back of the elephant

that conveyed it to the shrine to the height of five hundred

cubits, and thence display itself to the astonished populace,

whose hair stood on end at the sight of flames of fire and

streams of water issuing from it.

But it is not within our present purpose to quote all the
legends that embellish the history contained in the ancient
Sinhalese writings, and we must pass on to the shrine itself,
built by Tissa about the ^ear B.C. 307.

This monument is in itself evidence of the remarkable, skill
of architect, builder, and sculptor in Ceylon at a period anterior
to that of any existing monument on the mainland. The upper
portion of the structure has been renovated, by the devotees of
modern times, but the carvings and other work of the lower
portion remain untouched. All the Ceylon dagabas .are of this
bell shape, but their circumference .varies from a few feet to
over eleven hundred, some of them containing enough masonry
to build a town for twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The
Thuparama is small compared with many of them, the dia-
meter of the bell being about forty feet and its height about sixty.

The portion of the basement immediately beneath the bell
is undoubtedly ancient. It consists of two stages ; the lowec^
about three and a half feet high, is faced with dressed stone
and belted with bold mouldings ; the upper retires a couple

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540

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AnuHldiiiparA of feet, and upon that is a terrace six feet wide running right
The Thuparama round the-dagaba. The whole of the interior is believed to
be solid brick. Below the basement of the bell all has more
or less been buried in earth and debris^ the accumulation of
ages; excavation- has, however, disclosed a circular platform
of about one hundred and sixty feet in diameter, raised to
about twelve feet above the original level of the ground. The
base of this platform, which is reached by two flights of stone
steps, is also of brick and is ornamented with bold mouldings
to a height of about five feet, and above this the wall is sur-
rounded with semi-octagonal pilasters.

The most attractive feature of the dagaha, however, is the
arrangement of ornamental pillars on the platform. A large
number, as may be seen by a glance at our illustration (Plate
667), are still erect. They are all slender monoliths of elegant
proportions. The carvings of the capitals are singularly beau-
tiful ; they contain folial ornaments as well as grotesque figure-
. sculptures, and are fringed to a depth of more than a foot with
tassels depending from the mouths of curious masks. These
pillars are placed in four concentric circles, and decrease in
height as the circles expand, the innermost being twenty-three
feet and those of the outside circle fourteen feet high.

There has been a great deal of speculation as to the possible
structural use of these pillars. It is very likely that they served
some purpose besides that of mere ornament, but what that
was we are hardly likely now to discover, as no allusion is
made to them in any of the ancient chronicles.

Of the original one hundred and seventy-six pillars only
thirty-one remain now standing entire with their capitals.

Near the Thuparama there is a remarkably fine vessel
carved out of a single block of granite. Its size may be
estimated from the old Sinhalese woman who stands near it
in our picture. It is undoubtedly very ancient, but its use is
a matter of conjecture; most probably it was a receptacle for
alms in the form of rice for the use of the priests.

In the vicinity lies another curious vessel, about seven feet
long, also hewn out of a single block. Its chief points are a
circular basin and a raised slab, and it is supposed to have
been used for dyeing the robes of the priests, being known as
a **pandu orua,'* or dyeing vat. The robes were placed in
the basin of yellow dye, and were afterwards spread upon the
slab and wrung out with wooden rollers.

The interesting ruins of the Daladd Mdligdwa, or Palace of
the Tooth, are within the original outer wall of the Thuparama
enclosure. This palace was built for the reception of Buddha's
tooth upon its arrival in Ceylon in a.d. 311, but we must first
remark upon other ruins of an older date.

Monolithic
cistern

Pandu Orua

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668. MONOLITHIC CISTERN.

669. PANDU ORUA FOR DYEING THE ROBES
OF THE MONKS.

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542 THE BOOK OF> CEYLON

Anur<db4pHrti We pass-nowto^a-reltc'.whieh-has -perhaps- attracted -more

The Sacred attention than ahyjother-^the sacred, bo-tree. The royal con-

^ vert,' King Tissa,thaying succeeded in: obtaining a branch of

the • fig-tree .under which the Buddha had been wont to sit in
mcditatioh, planted it at Anurddhdpurd, and it is now; the
venerable tree which we see still -flourishing after more than
t\\'enty centuries. Its offspring have formed a grove which
overshadows the ruins of the once. beautiful court and the 'tiers
of sculptured terraces which wxre built around it. All that is
left of the magnificent entrance to the enclosure is seen in our
picture (Plate 670) — a few bare monoliths and the two janitors
still at their post.

The story of this tree is intimately connected with that of
Mahinda, and therefore goes back to the foundation of Anurad-
hdpurd. We hav6 already noticed that the conversion of the
people followed ''immediately upon that of their king, and < in
"the desire to embrace the doctrines of the great preacher the
\voinen were not behind, and thousands of -them wished to take
Vows aiid'^entcr upon a'life* ofasce'ticism. But Mahinda'^ de-
'dared' that 'although they might be converted by his preaching
they could take vows only at the hands of a dignitary of their
own sex.' This difficulty was overcome by sending for his
sister Sanghamitta, who had become the prioress of a Buddhist
nunnery at Pataliputra. Thither King. Tissa's minister,
Arittha,-was deputed to- proce'ed'"ahcr invite her to Ceylon for
the purpose of initiating "the women of the island; and at the
same time* he was di£ectecM:o request the Emperor Asoka to
a'llow her to 'bring with her a branch of the sacred bo-tree
under', which the' Buddha attained 'perfection. This mission
was 'duly accomplished; the princess came, and with her the
br'anch from which grew the very tree which still flourishes at
Anuradhd'purji.

Glancing at the story of the Mahawansa, we shall find no
exception to the typical manner in which the native historians
adorn their descriptions of important events, disguising every
fact with' a mantle of extravagant romance.

When it was decided that a branch of the original bo-tree
should be sent, superhuman aid was immediately forthcoming
for the construction of a golden vase for its transit. This vase
was moulded to a circumference of fourteen feet and a thick-
ness of eight inches. Then the monarch causing that vase,
resplendent like the meridian sun, to be brought, attended by
the four constituent hosts of his military array, and by the
great body of the priesthood, repaired to the great bo-tree,
which was decorated with every variety of ornament, glittering
with the variegated splendour of gems, decked with rows of
streaming banners, and laden with off'erings of flowers of every

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Bo4ree

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 543

hue. . . . Having bowed down with uplifted hands at AnurAdhipnrA
eight places, and placed that precious vase on a golden stool '^^f^*'^'^
studded with various gems, of such a height that the branch
could easily be reached, he ascended it himself for the purpose
of obtaining the topmost branch. Using vermilion in a golden
pencil, and streaking the branch therewith, he made this
solemn declaration and invocation : — ** If this right topmost
branch from this bo-tree is destined to depart hence to the land
of Lanka, and if my faith in the religion of Buddha be un-
shaken, let it, self-severed, instantly transplant itself into this
golden vase."

The bo-branch, severing itself at the place where the streak
was made, rested on the top of the vase, which was filled with
scented oil . . . The sovereign on witnessing this miracle,
with uplifted hands, while yet standing on the golden stool,
set up a shout, which was echoed by the surrounding spec-
tators. The delighted priesthood expressed their joy by shouts
of **sahdu," and the crowding multitude, waving thousands
of cloths over their heads, cheered . . . The instant the
great bo-branch was planted in the vase, the earth quaked, and
numerous miracles were witnessed. By the din of the
separately heard sound of various musical instruments — by
the ** sahdus '' shouted, as well as by Ddvas and men of the
human world as by the host of D6vas and Brahmas of the
heavens — by the howling of the elements, the roar of animals,
the screeches of birds, and the yells of the yakkas as well as
other fierce spirits, together with the crashing concussions of
the earthquake, they constituted one universal chaotic uproar.

The vase was then embarked on board a vessel in charge of
a large number of royal personages, and, accompanied ^by the
monarch, was taken down the Ganges to the sea, where the
Maharajah disembarked and ** stood on the shore with uplifted
hands; and gazing upon the departing branch, shed tears in
the bitterness of his grief. In the agony of parting, the dis-
consolate Asoka, weeping and lamenting in loud sobs, departed
for his own capital.'*

After a miraculous passage the vessel arrived off the coast
of Ceylon and was discerned by the king, who was watching
for it from a magnificent hall which had been erected on the
shore for the purpose. Upon seeing its approach he exclaimed :
* * This is the branch from the bo-tree at which Buddha attained
Buddhahood,*' and rushing into the waves up to his neck he
caused the great branch to be lifted up collectively by sixteen
castes of persons, and deposited it in the lordly hall on the beach.

It was then placed on a superb car and, accompanied by
the king, was taken along a road sprinkled with white sand
and decorated with banners and garlands of flowers to the city

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544

THE BOOK OF CEYLON-

The Sacred
Bo-tree

AanridiuipurA of Anurddhdpurd, which was reached on the fourteenth day.
At the hour when shadows are most extended the procession
entered the Mahamegha garden, and there the king himself
assisted to deposit the vase. In an instant the branch extri-
cated itself, and springing eighty cubits into the air, self -poised
and resplendent, it cast forth a halo of rays of six colours.
These enchanting rays, illuminating the land, ascended to the
Brahma heavens and continued visible till the sun had sunk
into the sea.

Afterwards the branch, descending under the constellation
**Rohini," re-entered the vase on the ground, and the earth
thereupon quaked. Its roots, rising up out of the mouth of
the vase and shooting downwards, descended, forcing it down
into the earth. The whole assembled populace made floral
and other offerings to the rooted branch. A heavy deluge of
rain fell around, and dense clouds completely enveloped it in
their misty shrouds. At the end of the seventh day the clouds
dispersed and displayed the bo-tree with its halo.

This bo-tree, monarch of the forest, endowed with many
miraculous powers, has stood for ages in the delightful Maha-
megha garden in Lanka, promoting the spiritual welfare of the
inhabitants and the propagation of the true religion.*

There is good reason to accept the main facts of the above
story, notwithstanding the fairy tale into which they have been
woven. The subsequent history of the venerable tree has been
less poetically chronicled, and recounts with great exactness
the functions held in its honour, together with reliable informa-
tion on matters connected with its careful preservation and the
adoration bestowed upon it. That it escaped destruction by
the enemies of Buddhism throughout many invasions is per-
haps attributable to the fact that the same species is held in
veneration by the Hindus who, while destroying its surround-
ing monuments, would have spared the tree itself.

Another very ancient and interesting foundation attributed
to King Tissa is the Isurumuniya Temple. This curious build-
ing, carved out of the natural rock, occupies a romantic
position. Before and behind lie large lotus ponds on whose
banks huge crocodiles may occasionally be seen. We may
easily photograph them from a distance by means of a telescope
lens, but they object to be taken at short range. We may
approach them with a hand camera, but immediately it is pre-
sented to them they dart into the water at lightning speed.
These ponds are surrounded by woodland scenery which
presents many an artistic feature ; but we must here be content
with a near view of the temple itself. To the right of the

* This account is condensed from Mr. Tumour's translation of the early
part of the Mahawansa, written in the fifth century.

Isurumuniya

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m^m.

670. THE SACRED BO-TREE.

671. THE ISURUMUNIYA ROCK TEMPLE.

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672. SCULPTURED TABLET AT ISURUMUNIYA.

673. BACK VIEW OF THE ISURUMUNIYA TEMPLE^

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

547

entrance will be noticed a large pokuna or bath. This has AnarAdh^pur*
been restored and is quite fit for its original purpose of cere- isummuniya
monial ablution, but the monks now resident have placed it at
the disposal of the crocodiles, whom they encourage by pro-
viding them with food.

The modern entrance to the shrine, with its tiled roof, is in
shocking contrast to the rock-building, and unfortunately this
is the case with all the ancient rock-temples of the island.

The terraces which lead to the shrine are interesting for
their remarkable frescoes and sculptures in bas relief. There
are more than twenty of these in the walls, and all of them are
exceedingly grotesque. Several are in the form of tablets like
the specimen here shown, in plate 672.

In addition to the tablets, the natural rock was frescoed in
high relief, and although many of the figures have become
hardly discernible, owing to the action of the climate during so
many centuries, others are still clearly defined. Above the
corner of the bath are the heads of four elephants, and above
them is a sitting figure holding a horse. Similarly there are
quaint carvings in many other parts. The doorway is mag-
nificent, and for beautiful carving almost equals anything to
be found in Ceylon. There is nothing of special interest about
the shrine. It has a figure of Buddha carved out of the solid
rock, but the rest of it has been decorated quite recently, and,
like the entrance porch, seems out of harmony with the spirit
of the place.

The temple is unique in many respects and worthy of a
thorough exploration. It was discovered about thirty years
ago entirely hidden by jungle, and, of course, in a worse state
than at present.

There are many more remains of this period in Anurddhd-
purd, but we shall now pass on to the Brazen Palace, a building
of somewhat later date — the end of the second century B.C.

In the interval between Tissa's death and the building of
the Brazen Palace by Dutthagamini, a large number of monas-
teries were erected and the community of monks greatly in-
creased. But even so early as this after the foundation of the
sacred city trouble came in the form of invasion from Southern
India. For some years the Tamils held the upper hand, Elara, Eiara
one of their princes, usurped the Sinhalese throne, and the
Buddhist cause was in danger of complete annihilation, when
the Sinhalese king Dutthagamini, stirred by religious enthu-
siasm, made a desperate stand and recovered his throne. The
story of the final combat is worthy of our notice as showing
the character of the man who erected the most wonderful of
the Anurddhdpurd monuments.

It was in B.C. 164 that Dutthagamini, having grown weary

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548

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The duel

Death of Elara

AnHridhipuri of the protracted struggles of his army which for some years
he had led with varying fortune against Elara, challenged that
prince to single combat. Having given orders that no other
person should assail Elara, he mounted his favourite war
elephant, Kandula, and advanced to meet his adversary. Elara
hurled the first spear, which Dutthagamini successfully evaded
and at once made his own elephant charge with his tusks the
elephant of his opponent. After a desperate struggle Elara
and his elephant fell together.

Then followed an act of chivalry on the part of Dutthaga-
mini so remarkable that it has been regarded with admiration
for twenty centuries. He caused Elara to be cremated on the
spot where he fell, and there built a tomb. He further ordained
that the tomb should receive honours, and that no one should
pass it without some mark of reverence ; and even to this day
these injunctions are to some extent respected, and the tomb is
still marked by a huge mound.

With the death of Elara the power of the invaders was
broken, and the heroic Dutthagamini restored to the country
those conditions of peace and prosperity under which Tissa
had been enabled to inaugurate the religious foundations
already referred to. To the further development of these he
now applied himself.

The community of monks had enormously increased with
the popularity of the new religion, and Dutthagamini made
their welfare his chiefest care, erecting the Loha Pasada,
known as the Brazen Palace, for their accommodation. This
remarkable building rested on sixteen hundred monolithic
columns of granite, which are all that now remain; their
original decoration has disappeared, and we see only that part
of them which has defied both time and a whole series of heretic
invaders. The basement or setting of this crowd of hoary
relics is buried deep in earth that has been for centuries accumu-
lating over the marble floors of the once resplendent halls, and
all that is left to us are these pillars partially entombed, but still
standing about twelve feet out of the ground (see Plate 674).

The history of this wonderful edifice is fully dealt with in the
native chronicles, whose accuracy as to the main features is
attested in many ways, and not least by the ** world of stone
columns *' that remain.

The following description is taken from the Mahawansa,
and was probably written about the fifth century a.d. from
records preserved in the monasteries : —

** This palace was one hundred cubits square and of the
same height. In it there were nine stories, and in each of
them one hundred apartments. All these apartments were
highly finished with silver; and the cornices thereof were em-

The Brazen
Palace

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Palace

THE BOOK OF CEYLON 549

bellished with gems. The flower-ornaments thereof were also AnurMhilpurA
set with gems, and the tinkling: festoons were of erold. In this The Brazen
palace there were a thousand dormitories having windows with
ornaments which were bright as eyes.

**The monarch caused a gilt hall to be constructed in the
middle of the palace. > This hall was supported on golden
pillars, representing lions and other animals as well as the
ddvatds, and was ornamented with festoons • of pearls all
around. Exactly in the middle of this hall, which was adorned
with the seven treasures, there was a beautiful and enchanting
ivory throne. On one side of this throne there was the emblem
of the sun in gold; on another the moon in silver; and on the
third the stars in pearls. From the golden corners in various
places in the hall, bunches of flowers made of various gems
were suspended; and between golden creepers there were
representations of the Jdtakas. On this most enchanting
throne, covered with a cloth of inestimable value, an ivory fan
of exquisite beauty was placed. On the footstool of the throne
a pair of slippers ornamented with beads, and above the throne
glittered the white canopy of dominion mounted with a silver
handle.

** The king caused the palace to be provided suitably with
couches and chairs of great value; and in like manner with
carpets of woollen fabric ; even the laver and its ladle for wash-
ing the hands and feet of the priests kept at the door of the
temple were made of gold. Who shall describe the other articles
used in that palace? The building was covered with brazen
tiles ; hence it acquired the name of the ' Brazen Palace. * * *

The palace did not long remain as originally constructed by
Dutthagamini. In the reign of Sadhatissa, about B.C. 140, the
number of stories was reduced to seven ; and again, about two
centuries later, to five. Its history has been marked by many
vicissitudes, generally involving the destruction of some of its
upper stories. These attacks on the wonderful edifice were not
always due to the iconoclastic zeal of Brahman invaders, but to
a serious division in the ranks of the Buddhists themselves.
About the year B.C. 90 a question arose as to the authority of
certain doctrines which one party wished to be included in the
canon. The proposal was regarded as an innovation and
strenuously opposed by the orthodox fraternity, with the result
that those who adhered to the innovation formed themselves
into a rival body known as the Abhayagiriya. Hence the great
Brazen Palace, which had originally been the residence of the
highest ascetics, was dependent for its preservation on the
varying fortunes of its orthodox inhabitants. This division,
which marred the unity of Buddhism in Ceylon for fourteen
centuries, was perhaps at the height of its bitterness when

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55°

THE Book OF CEYLON

The Ruanweli
Dagaba

AnurkdhA^HL Maha Sen came to the throne at the beginning of the third
century. He adopted the heresy above referred to and pulled
down the Brazen Palace in order to enrich the rival monastery
with its treasures. This apostate king, however, afterwards
recanted, and in his penitence he restored the palace once more
to its ancient splendour, and rebuilt all the other monasteries
that he had destroyed.

From the nature of its construction as well as the intrinsic
value of its decorative materials, the Brazen Palace has always
been more exposed to spoliation than the shrines and other
buildings whose colossal proportions astonish us as we wander
through the sacred city.

A more enduring and not less remarkable piece of the work
of Dutthagamini has come down to us. The new religion had
filled its votaries with almost superhuman energy, and only the
very hills themselves CQuld compare with the buildings which
were the outward expression of their devotion. Foundations
were laid to the depth of one hundred feet and composed of
layers of crystallised stone and plates of iron and copper alter-
nately placed and cemented; and upon such bases were piled
millions of tons of masonry.

We see the remains of one of these stupendous edifices in
the Ruanweli or gold-dust dagaba. Its present appearance
from a distance, from which our picture is taken, is- that of a
conical shaped hill nearly two hundred feet high, covered with
trees and surmounted by a tiny spire. It is, however, a mass
of solid brickwork (see Plates 675 and 676).

Time and the frequent attacks of enemies have to. a great
extent obliterated the original design, but there is sufficient of
the structure still remaining to verify the accounts of the ancient
writers who have transmitted to us full details of the building
as it was erected in the second century B.C. We should not
readily believe these accounts without the evidence of the ruins.
It is as well, therefore, to see what remains before we glance
at the first written story of the dagaba.

The ruins of the eastern portico in the foreground of the
picture at once suggest an entrance of stately proportions.
The pillars are arranged in six parallel rows so that wooden
beams might be laid upon them longitudinally and transversely
for the support of the ornamental open roof which was un-
doubtedly there. The boldly sculptured lions of the left front
give a clue to the style of ornament adopted.

Upon traversing the passage, which we notice is sufficiently
large to admit elephants, we arrive at an extensive court or
platform nearly one hundred feet wide and extending round
the whole dagaba. This is the path used for processions . in
which a large number of elephants frequently took part. From

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% 674. THE LOHA PASADA OR BRAZEN PALACE.

'675." THE RUANWELP DAGABA: ■' Digitteed'byGoOgle

676. THE RUANWELI, SHOWING THE EXCAVATION OF THE ELEPHANT WALL

677. MINIATURE DAGABA ON THE PLATFORM OF THE RUANWELI.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLOK 553

this rises anjoth^ immense square platform measuring about AnMfAdWpur*

five hundred feet each way and made to appear as if supported J^^SlT"""'*

by about four hundred elephants. These elephants form the *^

retaining wall; they were modelled, in brickwork and placed

less than two feet apart;* only their heads and fore legs appear;

their height is about nine feet. Although all that have been

excavated are in a terribly. dilapidated condition (see Platte 676),

there are stijl evidences here and there of the original treatment

and finish. We -learn from the native records that they were

all coated with the hard and durable white enamel, chunam,

and that each had iyory tusks. In protected places portions of

the original surface still remain, and the holes in the jaws

wh6re the tusks were inserted are still visible.

There are also traces of ornamental trappings which were
executed in bold relief ; they differ considerably on each elephapt;
suggesting gfreat ingenuity on the part of the modellers.

These two platforms form the foundation constructed to
sustain the ponderous mass of the solid brick shrine which wais
built' upon it to .the height of two hundred and seventy feet,
with an equal diameter at the. base of the dome.

The upper platform from which the dagaba rises covers
an area of about five acres, and is paved with stone slabs ; these
share the general ruin, due more to ruthless destruction than
the ravages of time. We notice that repairs have been effected
by fragments of stone taken from other fine buildings ; for
there are doorsteps, altar slabs, carved stones, of all shapes and
sizes, some incised with curious devices of evident antiquity,
and even huge monoliths from the thresholds of other buildings
have been dragged hither to supply the destroyed portions of
the original paving.

The objects of interest surrounding the dagaba are very
numerous. There are four ornamental altars, and various
parts belonging to them scattered everywhere : carved panels,
pedestals, scrolls, capitals, friezes, stone tables, elephgnts*
heads, great statues of Buddhas and kings.

Our illustration (Plate 677) shows how formidable is the
business of excavation. The platforms. had been buried to the
depth shown by the heaps of earth that still surround them
and hide the greater portion of the elephant wall. The same
features are observable in the illustration which faces this page.
Here upon the platform we notice in its original position a
miniature dagaba, of which there were probably many placed
around the great shrine as votive offerings.. This specimen
with the platform below it is composed of a ponderous mosioli-th^
and does not appear to have been disturbed.

In the far distance is a statue with a pillar of stone at,,tiife
back of it. This is said to be a statue in dolomite of JCing

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554 THE BOOK ^ OF • OBYLON

Batiya Tissa I., wfio came to the throne B.C. 19. It is e^ht

The Ruanx.'eii feet high, much weather-worn, and full of fractures.

Dagaba Near it are four other statues placed with their backs to

the dagaba (see Plate 678), three of them representing Buddhas,

and the fourth King Dutthagamini. They origkially stood in

the recesses of a building on the platform, and -were dug out

.during the excavations. They are all sculptured in dolomite;

the folds of the priestly robes with their sharp and shallow

flutings are very beautifully executed. They were probably

once embellished with jewels, the pupils of the eyes consisting

of precious stones, and the whole figures being coloured in

exact imitation of life.

The figure on the extreme left is said to be that of the king^
who is wonderfully preserved considering his great antiquity.
The statue is ten feet high, and must have looked very im-
posing in its original state, the jewelled collars being gilt, and
their pearls and gems coloured and polished; even now the
features wear a pleasant expression.

The hall where these figures were unearthed was probably
built specially for their reception. It is close to their present
position, and its threshold is marked by a plain moonstone.

Within a few yards of the statues stands a very fine slab
engraved in old Sinhalese characters. This seems to have
formed part of the wall at the side of the porch of the hall,
?ind it is still erect between two of the original pillars, being
very firmly fixed in a bed of brickwork. The engraved face
would thus have been inside the portico. Its date is the latter
part of the twelfth century, and it gives some account of
various good deeds of the King Kirti Nissanka, who was
famous for his attention to the repair and maintenance of
religious edifices. After reciting that he ** decorated the city
like a city of the gods,** it ends with an appeal to future princes
to protect and preserve the wihdres, the people, and the religion.

To give a complete description of the Ruanweli dagaba

and of the numerous ruined halls, altars and monuments that

•form part of or are connected with it would fill a volume at least

as large as the present. We must, however, remark briefly on

a few more points of special interest.

The three terraces or pasadas round the base of the bell are
about seven feet wide, and were used as ambulatories by the
worshippers. The uppermost terrace is ornamented with fore-
quarters of kneeling elephants to the number of about one
hundred and fifty. These are placed on the outer edge at regu-
lar intervals all round the dagaba. From the terraces the great
hemispherical mass of brickwork was carried to the height of
two hundred and seventy feet, including the tee or small spire.
Its present appearance, as may be seen in plate 676, is a

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678. STATUES IN DOLOMITE ON THE RUANWELI PLATFORM.

679. ALTAR AT THE RUANWELI DAGABA.

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Dagaba

556 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AAttrAdhApurA shapeless mound covered with trees sprung from stray seeds;
TheRuanweii but beneath those trees are the millions of bricks which were
carefully and religiously laid two thousand years ago.

The lower part of the bell has been restored to some extent
by pious pilgrims who have from time to time expended con-
siderable sums of money upon it; but the race that could make
these immense shrines what they once were has vanished, and
W4th it the conditions which rendered such works possible.

The principal ornaments of the dagaba were the chapels or
altars at the four cardinal points. All these are in a very
ruinous condition, portions of the friezes carved in quaint
designs being strewn about, as also are railings, mouldings,
brackets, vases, and sculptures of various kinds. One of these
structures, however, has been restored as far as possible from
the fragments found lying about at the time of its excavation
(Plate 679). There are traces here and there of enamel and
colour, especially upon the figure subjects, and it is supposed
from this that the whole surface of the altars was covered with
that wonderfully durable white chunam, and that they were
made attractive to the native eye by the gaudy colouring of
the figures and cornices.

In addition to the interesting architectural features of the
shrine there are numerous inscriptions in old Sinhalese charac-
ters, relating to grants of land and other matters connected
with the dagaba. The ancient writings refer to a number of
monastic edifices that surrounded it. Of these there are traces ;
but, since we find even lofty platforms buried in earth and over-
grown with grass and trees, the exploration of smaller buildings
is easily understood to be a difficult matter. How extensive
they must have been we can imagine from the fact that many
thousands of monks were attached to the monasteries of each
of the large dagdbas ; and for their personal accommodation,
not to speak of the requirements of their religious ceremonies,
a vast range of buildings must have been necessary.

Having glanced at the present condition of the ruined
shrine of Ruanweli, we will now turn to the Mahawansa for
some particulars of its origin. The chronicler, naturally
enough, attributes to a deity the supply of the necessary
materials; but the account of the construction is reasonable
enough, and is in many particulars borne out by what we see
at the present day. To support a solid mass of masonry two
hundred and seventy feet high and nearly a thousand in circum-
ference were needed foundations of an extraordinary character,
and the attention devoted to this unseen part of the work was
justified by results. Its success is evidenced by the fact that
not even now has any part of the foundation shown the slightest
sign of subsidence.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLOlSf

557

After the necessary excavation had been made, ** the
monarch Dutthagamini,*' says the chronicle, **who could dis-
criminate the advantages and disadvantages of things, causing
round stones to be brought by means of his soldiers, had them
well beaten down with pounders, and to ensure greater dura-
bility to the foundation he caused that layer of stones to be
trampled by enormous elephants, whose feet were protected by
leathern shoes. He had clay spread upon the layer of stones,
and upon this he laid bricks ; over them a coat of cement ; over
that a layer of stones ; over them a network of iron ; over that
a layer of phalika stone, and over that he laid a course of
common stones. Above the layer of common stones he laid a
plate of brass, eight inches thick, embedded in a cement made
of the gum of the kappitha tree, diluted in the water of the
small red cocoanut. Over that the lord of the chariots laid
a plate of silver seven inches thick, cemented in vermilion paint
mixed in tila oil.

** The monarch, in his zealous devotion to the cause of
religion, having made these preparatory arrangements at the
spot where the Mahathupa was to be built, thus addressed the
priesthood : * Revered lords ! initiating the construction of the
great c^tiya, I shall to-morrow lay the festival-brick of the
edifice : let all our priesthood assemble there. Let all my pious
subjects, provided with offerings, bringing fragrant flowers and
other oblations, repair to-morrow to the site of the Mahathupa.*

** The ruler of the land, ever mindful of the welfare of the
people, for their accommodation provided at the four gates of
the city numerous bath-attendants, barbers, and dressers, as
well as clothing, garlands, and savoury provisions. The in-
habitants of the capital as well as of the provinces repaired to
the thupa.

** The lord of the land, guarded by his officers of state
decked in all the insignia of their gala dress, himself captivating
all by the splendour of his royal equipment, surrounded by a
throng of dancing and singing women — rivalling in beauty the
celestial virgins — decorated in their various embellishments,
attended by forty thousand men, accompanied by a full band
of musicians, repaired to the site, as if he had himself been the
king of the D^vas. '*

Nextj the chronicler with pardonable exaggeration describes
the throngs of priests who attended the ceremony from various
Indian monasteries. After running up their number to nearly
a million, he seems to come to the limit of his notation, and
omits his estimate of the full number of Ceylon monks. The
account then continues: ** These priests, leaving a space in
the centre for the king, encircling the site of the cc^tiya, in due
order stood around. The king, having entered the space and

AnnFAdliipiir&

The Kuanweli
Dagaba

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Dagaba

558 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

seeing the priesthood who had thus arranged themselves, bowed
zi^irS?^''* down to them with profound obeisance; and overjoyed at the
spectacle, making offerings of fragrant garlands and walking
twice round, he stationed himself in the centre on the spot
where the filled chalice was placed with all honours. This
monarch, supremely compassionate, and regardful equally of
the welfare of all beings, delighting in the task assigned to
him, caused a minister of noble descent, well attired, to hold
the end of a fine rod of silver that was fitted into a golden pivot,
and began to make him walk round therewith on the prepared
ground, with the intent to describe a great circle to mark the
base of the c^tiya. Thereupon a thera of great spiritual dis-
cernment^ by name Siddhattha, who had an insight into the
future, dissuaded the king, saying to himself, * the king is
about to build a great thupa indeed; so great that while yet
it is incomplete he would die : moreover, if the thupa be a very-
great one it would be exceedingly difficult to keep in repwiir. '
For these reasons, looking into futurity, he prohibited it being
constructed of that magnitude. The king, although anxious
to build it of that size, by the advice of the priesthood and at
the suggestion of the theras, adopting the proposal of the thera
Siddhattha, described a circle of more moderate dimensions.
The indefatigable monarch placed in the centre eight golden
and eight sihv^er vases, and surrounded them with one thousand
and eight fresh vases and with cloth in quantities of one hun-
dred and eight pieces. He then caused eight excellent bricks
to be placed separately, one in each of the eight quarters, and
causing a minister, who was selected and fully arrayed for the
purpose, to take up one that was marked with divers signs of
prosperity, he laid the first auspicious stone in the fine cement
on the eastern quarter ; and lo ! when jessamine flowers were
offered thereunto, the earth quaked.**

When the pediment was complete the very important busi-
ness of constructing the relic chamber was proceeded with.
This was placed in the centre and afterwards covered by the
mighty mass of brickwork that forms the dagaba;

The Mahawansa gives the following minute description of
the formation of the receptacle and the articles placed in it
prior to the installation of the relics : —

Six beautiful cloud-coloured stones were procured, in length
and breadth eighty cubits and eight inches thick. One of these
slabs was placed upon the flower-offering ledge from which the
dome was to rise, and four were placed on the four sides in the
shape of a box, the remaining one being placed aside to be
afterwards used as the cover. ** For the centre of this relic
receptacle the king caused to be made an exquisitely beautiful
bo-tree in precious metals. - The height, of the stem was

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

559

eighteen cubits;. the root was coral, and was fixed in emerald /k^nuWUMiA^iirii

ground. The sten> was of pure silver; its leaves glittered with ThcRuapsveii

geiiis. The faded leaves were of gold; its fruit and tender *^

leaves were oi coral. On its stem there were representations

ol the eight auspicious objects, plants arwi beautiful rows of

quadrupeds - and geese. Above this, around the edges .- of a

gorgeous cloth canopy, there- was a fringe with a gold border

tinkling with pearls, and in various parts garlands of flowers

were suspended. At the four corners of the canopy hung

bunches composed of pearls, each of ,them valued at nine

lacs. Emblems of the sun, moon, and stars, and the various

species of lotuses, represented in gems, were appended to the

canopy ... At the foot of the bo-tree were arranged rows

of vases felled with the various flowers represented in jewellery

and with the four kinds of perfumejd waters.

** On a golden throne, erected on the eastern side of the
bo-tree, the king placed a resplendent golden image of Buddha,
in the attitude in which he received buddahood at the foot of
the bo-tree at Uruvela in the kingdom of Magadha. The
features and limbs of that image were represented in their
several appropriate colours in exquisitely resplendent gems.
Near the image of Buddha stood the figure of Mahabrahma
bearing the silver canopy of dominion ; Sjikka, the inaugurator,
with his conch; Pancasikha, harp in hand; Kalanga, together
with his singers and dancers ; the hundred-armed Mara mounted
on his elephant and surrounded by his host of attendants.*'
The above was the arrangement of the eastern side. On the
other three sides altars were formed in an equally elaborate and
costly manner. Groups of figures represented numerous, events
in the life of Buddha and his various deeds. There was Brahma
in the act of supplicating Buddha to expound his doctrines;
the advance of King Bimbisara to meet Buddha ; the lamenta-
tion of D^vas and men on the demise of Buddha, and a large
number of other notable occurrences. Flashes of lightning
were represented on the cloud-coloured stone walls illuminating
and setting off the apartment.

What the relics were that this elaborate receptacle was
made to receive is not quite clear, but. some were obtained, and
for the ceremony of translation a canopy of cloth ornamented
with tassels of gems and borders of pearls was arranged above
the chamber. On the day of the full moon the monarch en-
shrined the relics. ** He was,'* says the Mahawansa,
** attended by bands of singers and dancers of every descrip-
tion ; by his guard of warriors fully caparisoned ; by his g^eat
military array, consisting of elephants, horses, and chariots,
resplendent by the perfection of their equipment ; mounting his
state carriage, to which four perfectly white steeds of the

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S6o THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AnnridMrartl Sindhava breed were harnessed, he stood under the white
n*'2^'*"'*'* canopy of dominion bearing a golden casket for the reception
"^ of the relics. Sending forward the superb state elephant,

Kandula, fully caparisoned to lead the procession, men and
women carrying one thousand and eight exquisitely replenished
vases encircled the carriage. Females bearing the same
number of baskets of flowers and of torches, and youths in
their full dress bearing a thousand and eight superb banners
of various colours surrounded the car." Amidst such a scene
the monarch Dutthagamini descended into the receptacle
carrying the casket of relics on his head and deposited it on
the golden altar. He then ordered that the people who desired
to do so might place other relics on the top of the shrine of the
principal relics before the masonry dome was erected, and
thousands availed themselves of the permission.

Now the work of building again proceeded, and the massive
dagaba was carried near to completion when King Dutthaga-
mini fell sick. The native chronicle tells a pathetic story of
the last scene, describing how the dying monarch was carried
to a spot where, in his last moments, he could gaze on his
greatest works — the Lohapasada and the Ruanweli dagaba.
Lying on a marble couch which is pointed out to the visitor at
the present day, he was comforted by hearing read out an
enumeration of his own many pious acts. His favourite priest,
who had been a great warrior and had been at his side in
twenty-eight battles, was now seated in front of him. The
scene is thus referred to in the Mahawansa : ** The king thus
addressed his favourite priest : 'In times past, supported by
thee, one of my warriors, I engaged in battle; now, single-
handed, I have commenced my conflict with death. I shall
not be allowed to overcome this antagonist. * To this the thera
replied : * Ruler of men, compose thyself. Without subduing
sin, the dominion of the foe, the power of the foe, death is
invincible. For by our divine teacher it has been announced
that all that is launched into this transitory world will most
assuredly perish; the whole creation therefore is perishable.
The principle of dissolution uninfluenced by the impulses of
shame or fear exerts its power, even over Buddha. Hence,
impress thyself with the conviction that created things are
subject to dissolution, afflicted with griefs, and destitute of
immortality. In thy existence immediately preceding the pre-
sent one, thy ambition to do good was truly great ; for when the
world of the gods was then even nigh unto thee, and thou
couldst have been born therein, thou didst renounce that
heavenly beatitude, and repairing thither thou didst perform
manifold acts of piety in various ways. Thy object in reducing
this realm under one sovereignty was that thou mightest restore

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 561

the glory of the faith. My Lord, call to thy recollection the Anurildhilpurii
man>' acts of piety performed from that period to the present TheRuanweii
day, and consolation will be inevitably afforded to thee. ' . . . ^^^'^ **
The monarch having derived consolation replied to the thera :
* For four-and-twenty years have I been the patron of the
priesthood ; may even my corpse be subservient' to the protec-
tion of the ministers of the faith ! Do ye therefore consume the
corpse of him who has been as submissive as a slave to the
priesthood in sdme conspicuous spot in the yard of the Uposatha
Hall within sight of the Mahathupa. * Having expressed these
wishes, he addressed his younger brother : * My beloved Tissa,
do thou complete, in the most efficient and perfect manner, all
that remains to be done at the Mahathupa ; present flower offer-
ings morning and evening ; keep up three times a day the sacred
service, with' full band of musicians. Whatever may have been
the offerings prescribed by me to be made to the religion of the
deity of happy advent, do thou, my child, keep up without any
diminution. My beloved, in no respects in the offices rendered
to the priesthood let there be any intermission.* Having thus
admonished him, the ruler of the land dropped into silence."

Saddha Tissa carefully carried out the dying wishes of his
brother and completed the pinnacle. He also decorated the enclos-
ing wall with elephants, and enamelled the dome with chunam.

Each of several succeeding kings added something to the
decoration, and erected more buildings in the precincts of the
great shrine. It is recorded of King Batiya Tissa, who rergned
between 19 b.c. and 9 a.d., and whose statue near the dagaba
we have already noticed, that on one occasion he festooned the
dagaba with jessamine from pedestal to pinnacle ; and on
another he literally buried it in a heap of flowers, which he
kept watered by means of machinery constructed for the pur-
pose. Another king is said to have placed a diamond hoop
upon the spire.

Whatever percentage we may be inclined to deduct from
these accounts, there is no doubt that great wealth was lavished
on the structure for many years after its erection. In later
times, when the enemies of Buddhism obtained possession of
the city, the great dagaba suffered severely ; on many occasions
it was partially destroyed, and again restored when the power
of the Sinhalese was temporarily in the ascendant. The last
attempt to destroy it is said to have taken place in the thirteenth
century.

After our somewhat protracted examination of the Ruanweli,
we pass from its precincts into one of the open stretches of
park-like land that have been reclaimed from forest and jungle.
The gardens that were once an especially beautiful feature of
the ancient city were but a few years ago overgrown with trees.

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562

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Tfu ruitu and
the landscape

Pokunas

The kuttam-
pokuna

and dense thicket had veiled every vestige of brick and stone.
Recent clearings have, however, disclosed numberless remains
which form a unique feature in the landscape. Clusters of
pillars with exquisitely carved capitals, as perfect as if they
had recently left the hands of the sculptor, appear interspersed
with the groups of trees that have been spared for picturesque
effect. Here and there numbers of carved monoliths are lying
prostrate, bearing evidence of wilful destruction. As we
wander through one of these charming glades we are attracted
especially by the group of pillars illustrated in plate 680. In
almost every instance of such groups the ornamental wings on
the landing at the top of the steps are exposed, although the
steps and mouldings of the bases are buried in earth. In the
illustration here given it will be noticed that these wing-stones,
covered with makara and scroll, vie with the carved capitals in
their excellent preservation ; the fabulous monster forming the
upper portion and the lion on the side are still perfect in every
particular.

It is probable that these buildings consisted of an entrance
hall and a shrine, that they were, in fact, the image houses of
the wihdres.

Another very interesting feature of the cleared spaces is
the large number of stone-built baths or tanks, called
*' pokunas.** There are so many, and they vary so much in
architectural treatment, that they must have added greatly to
the beautiful aspect of the city. The specimen illustrated in
our plate has been restored, and gives a good idea of the
original appearance, although much of the ornamental portion
is missing. It will be noticed that on one side there is a stone-
paved terrace, within which is an inner bath. This inner bath
was doubtless sheltered by a roof supported upon stone pillars,
of which there are several fractured pieces and socket holes
remaining. The inner bath leads into a chamber like the
opposite one visible in the picture. The walls of these chambers
are beautifully worked single stones, and the tops are covered
by enormous slabs of a similar kind, measuring twelve by
seven feet.

The most interesting example yet discovered is the kuttam-
pokuna or twin-bath (see plate 682). This consists of a couple
of tanks placed end to end, measuring in all about two hundred
and twenty by fifty feet. The left side of the picture serves to
show the condition in which the baths were when discovered,
but on the right we see that some considerable restoration has
been effected. The materials are generally found quite com-
plete, although dislodged and out of place.

Our photograph was taken in January, before the end of
the rainy season, and in consequence the tank appears too full

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680. REMAINS OF IMAGE HOUSES.

681. A POKUNA,

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682. THE KUTTAM-POKUNA.

68a THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 565

of ^:ater to admit of tlie structure being seen at any considerable AnurAdhApurA
depth, and some verbal description is therefore necessary. Kuttam-pokuna

The sides are built in projecting tiers of large granite blocks
so planned as to form terraces all round the tank at various
depths, the maximum depth being about twenty feet. Hand-
some flights of steps descend to the terraces, some of them
having carved scrolls on the wings. The bold mouldings of
the parapet give an exceedingly fine effect to the sides. There
are signs of rich carvings in many parts of the structure, but
every portion is too much defaced to trace the designs.

There is something very weird about these remnants of
ancient luxury hidden in the lonely forest. In the dry season
of the year, when the ruined terraces of the kuttam-pokuna can
be seen to the depth of sixteen feet, this scene is one of the
most impressive in Anurddh^purd.

We cannot help reflecting, too, that the famous baths of
the Roman emperors were constructed contemporaneously with
these, and that while those of Caracalla and Diocletian, being
built of brick, have crumbled now beyond repair, the picturesque
and elegant baths of Dutthagamini, with their beautiful terraces
and stairways of granite, can with little trouble be restored to
their pristine condition.

It is impossible to arrive at the exact purpose of the various
forms of baths found at Anurddhdpurd. Some were doubtless
attached to the monasteries and used exclusively for ceremonial
ablutions ; some were private baths of the royal family ; others
.were possibly for public use, and many served as receptiacles of
the drinking water of the inhabitants. All of them were fed
from artificial lakes outside the city.

We have already referred to the usurpation of the throne King
of Ceylon by the Tamil invader, Elara, and to the combat with It^S/T'"*'''^'*
Dutthagamini, which resulted in the defeat and death of the Abhayagiriya
usurper. Strange as it may appear, the victor, who had merely
regained his birthright, was constrained to make atonement
for bloodshed as well as the natural than k-off^e ring for his
victory, and to this we owe the building of the great monastery
of the Brazen Palace and the Ruanweli dagaba. We find a
curious repetition of history in the occurrences that took place
about thirty years after his death, when the old enemy again
got the upper hand. The king, Walagambahu, was deposed,
and the usurper, Pulahatta, assumed the sovereignty. Fifteen
more years of alien rule ensued, during which no less than
four of the usurpers were murdered by their successor, until
Walagambahu vanquished the fifth, Dathiya. He then pro-
ceeded to raise a monastery and shrine that .should eclipse in
magnitude those constructed by Dutthagamini under similar
circumstances.

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566

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

A bhayagiriya

The altars

The buildings of the monastery have vanished, save only
the boundary walls and the stumps of its pillars, which are
found in large numbers; but the Abhayagiriya dagaha (Plate
683), of its kind the greatest monument in the world, has defied
all the forces of destruction, both of man and nature, and
although abandoned for many centuries, during which it re-
ceived its vesture of forest, there is still a very large proportion
of the original building left. The native annals give as the
measurement of the Abhayagiriya a height of four hundred and
five feet, or fifty feet higher than St. Paul's Cathedral, with
three hundred and sixty feet as the diameter of the dome. The
height is now greatly reduced, but the base covers about eig^ht
acres, and sufficiently attests the enormous size of its super-
structure. The lower part of the dome is buried under the
debris of bricks which must have been hurled from above in
infidel attempts at destruction. Beneath this mass the remains
of the numerous edifices, akars, and statues, which surrounded
the dagaha, are for the most part concealed, but excavations at
various periods have disclosed some ruins of considerable in-
terest, notably the altars at the four cardinal points, one of
which is visible in our illustration (Plate 683). These altars
are very similar to those of the Ruanweli dagaha, but much
larger and more elaborate in detail, being about fifty feet in
breadth. Many of the carvings are in remarkable preservation
considering their vast age and the perils they have experienced.
Between the stelae were the usual strings of carved ornaments,
with an additional one composed of running figures represent-
ing horses, elephants, bulls, and lions.

The stelae, of which there are two at each end, are
elaborately carved, as will be seen from the accompanying
illustrations; the fronts being adorned with a floral decoration
springing from a vase, and surmounted by three lions. The
return faces are formed of two panels. The upper has a car^'ed
male figure (N%a), with a five-headed cobra as a sort of halo,
holding flowers in the right hand and resting the left on his
hip. In the lower panel is a female (Nfigani) with single hood ;
the upper part of whose body is bare, with the exception of
some jewellery, while below the waist the limbs are draped in
a transparent robe; the ankles are encircled by bangles, and
the palm of her right hand supports a vessel containing a lotus-
bud (Plate 689). Adjoining the stelae is a sculptured seven-
headed cobra, the carving of which reproduces the scaly nature
of the skin with remarkable fidelity.

The west end of the altar is finished in a similar manner,
but here the lower part of the outer stele is destroyed ; the upper
panel of the return face contains a more elaborately executed
male figure, sumptuously attired and bedecked with jewels.

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684. CARVED STELE AT ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.

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685. THE PEACOCK PALACE.

686. THE JETAWANARAMA DAC3WKBA.

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

569

There was doubtless the counterpart female figure below, but AnuridhApurA
it has been entirely demolished (Plate 684).

The eastern altar, the first to be excavated, is the most
interesting and perfect of all that have yet been discovered. •

This dagaba, like the Ruanweli, stands on a square paved
platform with sides of about six hundred feet in length, with
the usual elephant path below and guard houses at each of. the
four entrances. Doubtless a very large number .of buildings
were erected on the platform, but of these scarcely a vestige
remains. It will be renfiembered that Maha Sen enriched the
Abhayagiriya with spoils from the Brazen Palace, and it is
therefore likely that it was more elaborately embellished than
any other dagaba.

Perhaps no ruin at Anurddhapurd gives a more complete Peacock Palace
idea of the utter transience of every perishable part of a build-
ing than the so-called Peacock Palace (Plate 685). Not only
the superstructure, which was doubtless of woodwork, but
every vestige of material other than granite has passed away. .
This building was erected in the first century of the Christian
era, and is said to have owed its title to the brilliance of its
external decoration. A circle of finely wrought pillars with
beautiful sculptured capitals and the carved wings at the
entrance are, as we see, all that remain.

The next group of ruins to which we come belong to the King Maha Sen
third century, when Maha Sen, on the recantation of his heresy,
built another enormous dagaba and a series of smaller religious
edifices, of which there are some very interesting remains.
This monarch ascended the throne a.d. 275, and died a.d. 302.
His support of the schismatics who had seceded from the
orthodox faith is attributable to a tutor under whose influence
he came by the secret machinations of the party. The result
of this was that upon coming to the throne he persecuted those
monastic orders that turned a deaf ear to the new doctrines.
Hundreds of their buildings were razed to the ground, including
the famous Brazen Palace, and the materials were used for the
erection of shrines and monasteries for the new. sect. When,
however, after the lapse of some years, the old faith still held
its place in the affections of the people and his throne was
endangered by general discontent, he returned to the faith of
his fathers, restored all the buildings that he had destroyed,
and reinstated the members of every foundation that he had
overthrown.

The inception of the Jetawanarama monastery and dagaba jetawanarama
is attributed to the middle period of this monarch's reign in
the following quotation from the Mahawansa : —

'* The king having had two brazen images or statues cast
placed them in the hall of the great bo-tree; and in spite of

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570 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AnurAdhilpurA remonstrance, in his infatuated partiality for the thera Tissa '

jetawanarama of the Abhayagiriya fraternity — a hypocrite, a dissembler^ a )

companion of sinners, and a vulgar man — constructed the Jet-
wanarama vihara for him, within the consecrated bounds of j

the garden called Joti, belonging to the Mahavihara."

The Jetawanarama thus begun before the recantation of
the raja was not completed till the reign of his son Kitsiri
Mai wan.

In our photograph may be seen the remains of this great
shrine across the glistening waters of the Basawak Kulam
from a distance of about two miles (see plate 687). The
Basawak Kulam is one of the lakes constructed as tanks for the ^

supply of water to the city. Although we shall have occasion '

to refer to these tanks later, we may here notice that this one
is said to be the oldest and dates from B.C. 437. The lofty *

dome, which sixteen centuries ago stood gleaming from its
ivory-polished surface above the trees and spires which dotted
the landscape, now stands a desolate mountain of ruined brick-
work, over which the forest has crept in pity of its forlorn
appearance. Its original height is open to question. It is
said to have been three hundred and fifteen feet, but at present 1

it is no more than two hundred and fifty. Like the other /

dagaha already described it was restored at various periods »
and its original outline may have been altered. The spire
which still crowns the dome was probably added when the
dagaha was restored by King Parakrama Bahu in the eleventh
century. Sir Emerson Tennent's pithy remarks upon this
monument cannot be overlooked by any writer on Anurddha-
purd, and must be reproduced here : —

*' The solid mass of masonry in this vast mound is pro-
digious. Its diameter is three hundred and sixty feet, and its
present height (including the pedestal and spire) two hundred
and forty-nine feet; so that the contents of the semi-circular *

dome of brickwork and the platform of stone seven hundred
and twenty feet square and fifteen feet high exceed twenty
millions of cubic feet. Even with the facilities which modern '

invention supplies for economising labour, the building of such
a mass would at present occupy five hundred bricklayers from
six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of at least
a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise eight
thousand houses, each with twenty feet frontage, and these
would form thirty streets half a mile in length. They would
construct a town the size of Ipswich or Coventry; they would
line an ordinary railway tunnel twenty miles long, or form a
wall one foot in thickness and ten feet in height, reaching from
London to Edinburgh. Such are the dagdbas of Anuradhapura,
structures whose stupendous dimensions and the waste and

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6S7, THE JETAWANARAMA ACROSS THE BASAWAK KULAM.

683. REMAINS OF PAVJLIQK v\aTH DUPLlCATEI^itiJ^Of'rfcET^^.OQlC

689. CARVED STELE AT ABHAYAGIRIVA DAGABA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 573

misapplication of labour lavished. on them are hardly outdone AauridhilpurA
even in the instance of the Pyramids of Egypt.'* jetawanarama

All the large dagabas correspond so closely in general
design that when you have seen one you may be said to have
seen all. Differences exist only in the numerous small struc-
tures with which the platforms abound,, and in the details of
the ornamentation. The Jetawanarama, for instance, has a
railing in brickwork, of the form known as a ** Buddhist rail-
ing ''—which we shall see also in stone — upon each face of
the cube above the dome. The drum sustaining the spire was
also the subject of considerable ornamentation, and has eight
niches in which probably statues were placed. Another pecu-
liarity has been noticed in the shape of the bricks with which
the dome was faced. They were very large and wedge-shaped.
The measurement of one was found to be : length, eighteen
inches; breadth, twelve inches at one end and nine and a half
at the other; thickness, three and a half inches at the broad
end and three inches at the other. Some of the panels that
decorate the stelae of the altars have unusual characteristics,
particularly one in which a male figure is represented, as leading
an animal by a rope ; and in the panel below a dancing woman
attired in transparent clothing. On the paved platforms are
lying many enormous slabs and portions of small structures,
which show clearly the thoroughness of the destruction carried
out by the Tamils. The accumulation of earth around the base
of the dome is some thirty feet deep, rendering excavation a
somewhat formidable task.

In close proximity to the great Jetawanarama dagaha are
five buildings in one enclosure measuring two hundred feet
square. In the centre stood the principal pavilion, the ruins of
which are shown in plate 688. At the four corners of the
enclosure were the subsidiary edifices, now only traceable by
a few stone pillars that mark the site of each. Only so much
of the central pavilion as is seen in this plate has been ex-
cavated, but it suffices to show some exquisite carving and to
give some idea of the importance of the building.. The hand-
some stylobate measures sixty-two by forty-two feet, and had
a beautifully moulded base of finely-wrought granite. The
superstructure has entirely disappeared. The flight of steps at
the entrance needs very few words of description, as it can be
seen in our illustration (Plate 6go). The landing is a fine
monolith thirteen feet long and eight wide. On either side of
the landing is a grotesque figure. A coping skirts the landing
on each side, and terminates in a rectangular block ornamented
with a panel containing a seated lion beautifully carved in high
relief. This is one of the best pieces of sculpture we shall meet
with. The strength of the beast is well brought out, while the

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574

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

AnurMhipurA uplifted paw and the look of defiance are most suggestive. But
as remarkable as the skill of the craftsman is its preservation,
exposed and uninjured during so many centuries. The steps
are ornamented by squatting figures of men who appear to be
supporting the tread; these, too, are well carved; the hands
are pressed upon the knees ; the waist is girdled, and a jewelled
band falls over the shoulders ; from thie head waving curls are
flowing; their ears, arms, dbows, wrists and ankles are
adorned with jewelled rings and bangles. The pilasters on
either side of each figure are carved in similar minute detail
and represent bundles of leaves.

The moonstone At the foot of the stcps Hcs the best preserved moonstone

yet discovered. The moonstone, it may be observed, is almost
peculiar to Sinhalese architecture, and is a semicircular slab
forming the doorstep to the principal entrance of a building.
Its ornamentation varies considerably, as may be seen on com-
paring plate 690 with plate 691. In our specimen (Plate 690)
the innermost fillet contains 'a floral scroll of lilies; next comes
a row of the hansa, or sacred goose, each carrying in its beak
a lotus-bud with two small leaves ; then comes a very handsome
scroll of flowers and leaves; alter this is a procession of
elephants, horses, lions and bulls; and, lastly, a border of rich
foliage. All this carving is as sharp and well defined as if it
were fresh from the sculptor's chisel, and this in spite of an
interval of sixteen hundred years.

Guard stones Guard stones and wing stones doubtless formed part of the

decoration of these handsome steps, but they have entirely
disappeared. The dvarpal stones which face one another on the
landing are not so well preserved as the steps, owing to their
being exposed while the lower portion of the structure was buried.
Our illustration (Plate 688) represents another of these
buildings, which has been called the Queen's Pavilion, but was
doubtless a wihdre, or shrine. The most noticeable feature is
its massive stylobate of dressed granite ornamented by base
mouldings of a very massive character. The pediment is unlike
any other that has been discovered, being duplicated and
carried higher than usual.

The forest is everywhere teeming with ruins awaiting dis-
covery and excavation. Sometimes the only sign of an impor-
tant edifice is a single pilldr or group of pillars standing above
the ground, or perhaps a portion of some stairway which has
not yet become entirely hidden by earth. A few years ago
Mr. S. M. Burrows discovered- the most perfect door-guardians
and flight of steps yet unearthed by a very slight indication of
the kind referred to. These form the subject of our illustra-
tion, plate 691. I quote Mr. Burrows *s own words in refer-
ence to them from his .Archaeological report : **The extreme tip

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690. MOONSTONE AND STEPS.

691. MOONSTONE GUARD STONES MAKARA TORANA AND STE

p^oogie

692. GALG^.

693 DALADA MALIGAWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

577

of what appeared to be a * dorapdluvva ' (door-guardian stone), AnurAdhApurA
and some fine pillars at a little distance from it, invited excava-
tion. The result was highly satisfactory. A vihara of the
first class, measuring about eighty feet by sixty, was gradually
unearthed, with perhaps the finest flight of stone steps in the
ruins. The * moonstone,' though very large, presents the lotus
only, without the usual concentric circles of animal figures;
but one at least of the door-guardian stones, standing over five
feet high, is unrivalled in excellence of preservation and delicacy
of finish. Every detail, both of the central figure and its two
attendants, stands out as clear and perfect as when it was first
carved; for the stone had fallen head downwards, ^nd was
buried under seven or eight feet of earth."

Our illustration (Plate 692) represents a galg6, or hermit's GaJ^d
cell, excavated out of the natural rock, with an outer wall of
brick. This is a place of considerable interest. The rock,
which is a huge hummock about one hundred and twenty yards
long, bears signs of having been extensively quarried for other
buildings. Wedge marks, as in our illustration, appear in many-
parts, giving indications of the manner in which the builders
detached the huge monoliths found everywhere, and going far
to prove that two thousand years ago they used a method which
was introduced into Europe in the nineteenth century.

Near this cave ruins abound; the basements of upwards of
twenty buildings, several fine pokunas, and quite a forest of
pillars are visible.

We have already referred to Kitsiri Maiwan I., who finished TheDaiada
the great Jetawanarama begun by his father, Maha Sen. In ' ^^^a^^
the ninth year of his reign, a.d. 311, the famous tooth-relic of
Buddha was brought to Ceylon by a princess who in time of
war is said to have fled to Ceylon for safety with the tooth con-
cealed in the coils of her hair. The Dalada Maligawa, or
Temple of the Tooth, was then built for its reception within
the Thuparama enclosure. The ruins of this famous temple
are well worthy of inspection. The building appears to have
consisted of an entrance hall, an ante-chamber, and a relic-
chamber. Our illustration shows the moulded jambs and lintel
of the entrance to the ante-chamber still in situ. The prin-
cipal chamber is interesting for its curiously carved pillars,
the heads of which are worked into a design often supposed to
represent the sacred tooth. At the principal entrance there is
a handsome flight of stone steps, at the foot of which is a richly
sculptured moonstone and a dvarpal on either side. The origin
of the Perahara festivals, still held annually at Kandy, and
which have been described on page 311, dates from the erection
of this temple from which the tooth was upon festival occasions
borne through the streets of Anurddhapurd on the back of a

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578

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Modem native

dwellings •

AnurAdhipurA white elephant which was always kept at the temple for the
purpose. During the invasions of the Malabars, when the
temple was more than once destroyed, the sacred relic was on
several occasions removed for safety and thus preserved, but
at length, in the fourteenth century, it was seized and carried
ofiF to India. The Sinhalese king Parakrama Bahu III., how-
ever, by proceeding to India successfully negotiated its ransom
and brought it back again. There is a story of its having
been taken and destroyed by the Portuguese at a later date,
and although Europeans consider the evidences of this final
mishap as historical, the natives are satisfied that the original
relic still exists in the temple at Kandy and regard it with the
greatest veneration.

As we wander from one part of the sacred city to another
and inspect remains which suggest a past of such grandeur
and prosperity it is somewhat depressing to notice the squalid
appearance of the modern native dwellings and their in-
habitants. Notwithstanding much has been done of late years
to improve their lot by reviving means of cultivation, and
although the fever demon has been banished by the removal
of large tracts of jungle and forest, still the sight of the mud
dwellings roofed with leaves and sticks amidst the signs of
former magnificence gives rise to grave reflections. For the
most part the miserable remnant of the native population live
only onkurrukan, something like millet, not being even able
to afford rice.

The native annals give many particulars of the streets of
the ancient city, but considering how deeply buried are the
foundations of buildings traces of the streets are difficult to
find. There is, however, one of considerable interest at Tolu-
wila, a couple of miles east from the centre of the city (Plate
695). Here for several hundred yards the way is paved, and on
either side there are remains of many buildings. At intervals
where the road rises and falls there are flights of steps. In
the vicinity there are a good many indications of wihdres and
a small dagaba. It is very likely that this was within the
sacred part of the ancient city.

The facilities aflforded by the Ceylon Government Railway
will now enable thousands from every country to explore
Anurddhdpurd, which has at length taken its rightful place
amongst the most alluring monuments of the ancient world.

When, owing to centuries of strife with invaders from
southern India, the permanent decay of the city became
inevitable, the seat of the Government was transferred to
Polonnaruwa, fifty miles to the south-east, which rose to a
greatness that almost eclipsed the older capital. Although the
railway does not reach this latter city, it is accessible to the

Toluwila

Polonnaruwa

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mm.

^K^«.^

604. NATIVE 0WCLLINQ8.

6©5. TOLUWILA.

POLONNARUWA LAID WASTE BV THE TAMILS IN THE VEAR 1213.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

581

traveller, and some reference to it may therefore be expected l^olomwruwa
here.

It is best to visit Polonnaruvva after Dambulla and SigirL
From Habarane rest-house, which is a comfortable hostelry
(on the Trincomali road five miles beyond the turn to Sigiri),
it is twenty-six miles to Polonnaruwa. There is now a good
road for the whole distance. As Polonnaruwa is now being
explored by the archaeological commissioner, facilities and
accommodation for the visitor will doubtless quickly follow.
Enquiries should therefore be made locally upon these matters.
At the fourteenth mile we reach the lake of Minneria, which is Minmna
one of the most exquisite things in Ceylon. Killarney and
other well-known beautiful expanses of water and woodland
may be mentioned in comparison, but at Minneria there are
many additional charms, of which climate is not the least.
The islands and woodlands unexplored for a thousand years
are so thoroughly things of nature. Then the creatures every-
where add to the romance ; the myriads of curious birds, many
of great size and magnificent plumage ; the crocodiles lazily
basking upon the banks, and the spotted deer often darting
across the open glades. Even the knowledge that the elephant,
the bear, and the leopard, though out of sight, are present in
large numbers, lends additional interest to a scene which is
beyond description.

Polonnaruwa had been a place of royal residence in the
palmiest days of the older city, but it was not till the eighth
century that it was adopted as the seat of government. The
decay of Anurddhapura had been creeping on ever since the
days of Kasyapa and the fortification of Sigiri. Internecine
war fostered by rival branches of the royal house, no less than
the interminable struggles with the Tamil invaders, hastened its
downfall. The history of the sixth and seventh centuries is a
story of bloodshed and anarchy ; the murders of a dozen kings,
conspiracies, and the assassination of high and low, made
violent death an everyday occurrence ; wholesale emigration
set in ; cultivation was interrupted, and buildings and irrigation
works alike w^re destroyed or neglected. At length the Tamils,
taking every advantage of internal dissension among the
natives, so strengthened their position in and around Anurddhd-
purd that the only means of the Sinhalese Government retain-
ing any pretence of power lay in retiring before them. These
circumstances led to the establishment of Polonnaruwa as the
capital, and the fate of Anurddhdpura was sealed, for when
abandoned to the Tamils its debasement and ruin were assured.
Unfortunately they were the worst type of conquerors. While
overthrowing the Sinhalese authority they made no attempt to
introduce any order of their own, but rather encouraged and

Polonnaruwa
becomes the
capital

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58^

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Poloniuu-uwa

Parakrama the
Great

abetted every lawless eflfort at destruction. No wonder, then,
at the spectacle of ruin and desolation presented by Anurddhd-
purd after a few years of Tamil dominion.

The new capital, however, soon made amends, and grew
with amazing rapidity until in its religious buildings, its royal
palaces, its lakes and gardens, it eclipsed the older city in
splendour as it did in extent. It was not, however, to remain
long in tranquillity. The Tamils soon made their way thither,
and the old struggle was repeated. Sometimes under a strong
native king religion flourished and a spell of general prosperity-
was experienced, only to be followed by a period of disaster
and destruction.

That the Sinhalese should have been able notwithstanding
this constant disquiet. to build and maintain a city of such un-
rivalled wealth, beauty, and power, is proof enough of the
splendid qualities of the race. For one century only, however,
during the Polonnaruwan epoch did they have a fair opportunity
of exercising their natural faculties to full advantage. What
they needed were freedom from the harassing incursions of
marauders and a cessation of domestic rivalry amongst their
rulers. These they obtained about the middle of the twelfth
century, when there arose a genuine hero who commanded the
allegiance of all his subjects. This monarch, Parakrama the
Great, not only regained possession of the whole of the country
by quietir^g all disaffection and expelling the Tamils, but even
invaded India and other more distant countries. Under his
rule the city of Polonnaruwa reached the zenith of its greatness,
and we shall best gather the story of the desolate but impressive
remains by a review of Parakrama 's reign as related in the
Mahawansa.

We may at once say that the reader need not regard either
the noble qualities or the innumerable great works which the
historian assigns to this monarch as one whit extravagant or
rpmantic, as they are fully attested by existing evidence.

In his youth we are told he was quick in the attainment of
arts and sciences, and by the help of a higher wisdom he j)er-
fected himself in the knowledge of law, religion, logic, poetry,
and music, and in the manly arts of riding and the use of the
sword and the bow. He seems to have studied the arts of
peace equally with those of war, and it is remarkable that even
before he had entered upon the campaigns that w-ere to bring
the whole country under his dominion he formed his plans for
restoring prosperity to the soil. In his first speech to his
ministers he is reported to have said : ** In a country like this
not even the least quantity of rain water should be allowed to
flow into the ocean without profiting man. . . . Remember
that it is not meet that men like unto us should live and enjoy

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699. THE JETAWANARAMA AT POLONNARUWA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 585

what has come into our hands and care not for the people. Peloaiuiruwa
Let there not be left anywhere in my kingdom a piece of land, Parakramathe
though it be of the smallest dimensions, that does not yield
some benefit to man.'*

To strengthen his hand before he entered upon the conquest
of the rebellious tribes he arranged for the residence in his own
palaces of the youth of all the noble families that they might
grow up ** familiar with the service of kings and become skilled
in managing horses and elephants and in fencing. '*

Finding the wealth that he had inherited insufficient for the
prosecution of his plans, he devised means of filling his treasury
without oppressing the people. He increased the export of
gems, and placed trustworthy officers over the revenue. And
in order that the efficiency of his army might be improved he
instituted mock battles, and personally selected the most
dexterous for places of honour in the field.

When every department was perfect and his matdriel of war
prepared, he entered upon a series of contests with the various
chieftains who still held possession of the greater part of the
country. We pass over the particulars of the battles that he
fought and won, our purpose being rather to follow the fortunes
of the royal city.

When the various pretenders and -disaflfected tribes had
been subdued or won over, as much by admiration of the great
Parakrama as by the force of his arms, he submitted to a second
coronation, which is described by the historian in the following
words: — *' On that day the deafening sound of divers drums
was terrible, even as the rolling of the ocean when it is shaken
to and fro by the tempest at the end of the world. And the
elephants, decked with coverings of gold, made the street
before the palace to look as if clouds had descended thereon
with flashes of lightning ; and with the prancing of the steeds*
of war the whole city on that day seemed to wave even like the
sea. And the sky was wholly shut out of sight with rows of
umbrellas of divers colours and with lines of flags of gold.
And there was the waving of garments and the clapping of
hands. And the inhabitants of the city shouted, saying, * Live !
O live ! great king ! * And there was feasting over the whole
land, which was filled with arches of plantains, intermingled
with rows of flower-pots ; and hundreds of minstrels chanted
songs of praise, and the air was filled with the smoke of sweet
incense. Many persons also arrayed themselves in cloths of
divers colours and decked themselves in ornaments of divers
kinds ; and the great soldiers who were practised in war, mighty
men, armed with divers kinds of weapons, and with the mien
of graceful heroes, moved about hither and thither like unto
elephants that had broken asunder their bonds.

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586 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Poionnaruwa ** By reason of the many archers also, who walked about

P^^^kramaihe with their bows in their hands, it seemed as if an army of gods

had visited the land; and the city with its multitude of palaces,

gorgeously decorated with gold and gems and pearls, seemed

like unto the firmament that is studded with stars.

*' And this mighty king, with eyes that were long like the
lily, caused many wonderful and marvellous things to be dis-
played, and adorned himself with divers ornaments, and
ascended a golden stage supported on the backs of two
elephants that were covered with cloth of gold. And he bore
on his head a crown that shone with the rays of gems, like as
the eastern mountain beareth the glorious and rising sun. And
casting into the shade the beauty of spring by the strength of
his own beauty, he drew tears of joy from the eyes of the
beautiful women of the city. And he marched round the city,
beaming with the signs of happiness, and, like unto the god
with the thousand eyes, entered the beauteous palace of the
king/*

Peace being established and the ceremony of the second
coronation over, Parakrama applied himself at once to the
advancement of religion and the welfare of the people.
Buddhism had been riven to its very core by heresies and
distracted by the disputes of its various fraternities; the great
families had been ruined and scattered ; crowds of poor were
starving without any ordered means of relief; and the sick
were absolutely uncared for. The king first brought about a
reconciliation of the rival religious brotherhoods, a task in
which his predecessors had for centuries failed, and which cost
him more labour than the re-establishment of the kingdom.
He erected alms-halls in every quarter of the city, making
them beautiful with gardens, and endowing them with every
necessity for the poor. He next built hospitals for the sick,
in whom he took great personal interest, being himself a skilled
physician. These were equipped with a staff so ample that no
sick person was at any moment left without an attendant; and
the king himself was their visitor, showing great pity and
enquiring fully of the physicians as to their manner of treat-
ment, ofttimes administering medicine with his own hands.
Thus did his great natural kindness of heart endear him to the
people.

Having secured the happiness of his people so long op-
pressed, he proceeded to enlarge and adorn the famous city of
Poionnaruwa. With an ardent resolve that the works upon
which he was about to spend great treasure should not suffer
the fate of those of his predecessors, which were so frequently
plundered by the invader, he turned his attention especially to
the question of fortifications. He placed a chain of massive

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 587

ramparts around the city and within this three lesser walls. Poionnaruwa
There is not much doubt of the existence of these, and their Parakramathe
eventual discovery will be a subject of great interest to future
explorers.

Although Parakrama is credited with such genuine solicitude
for his people that his memory even now is revered, he was not
less mindful of his own temporal comforts. He built for him-
self the Vejayanta, a palace of great splendour. It had seven
stories, and its thousand rooms were no less remarkable for
the massive and beautiful pillars that supported the floors than
for its roof, which was surmounted by hundreds of pinnacles
wrought in precious metals. The furnishing was equally
sumptuous, from carpets of great value to the tables inlaid
with ivory and gold.

The religious buildings erected by him during his reign of
thirty-three years were very numerous, and for the most part
of colossal proportion. Amongst them, as showing the king's
toleration of all religious systems, is mentioned one for ** pro-
pitiatory rites to be performed therein by Brahmans " ; as well
as a circular house " where he himself might listen to the
jdtakas of Buddha, read by the learned priest who dwelt there.'*

Nor were places of entertainment omitted. He built theatres
glittering with golden pillars, and delighted the assemblage
with paintings representing scenes of their hero's exploits ;
halls of recreation in which it seemed ** as if the hall of
assembly of the gods had descended to the earth, and the
manners and customs of the whole world had been gathered
together into one place. ' '

The native chronicle refers to a temple built in the reign of
Parakrama for the relic of Buddha's tooth. It is said to have
shone with roofs, doors, and windows of gold, and countless
works of art both within and without, and to have been
ornamented with canopies of divers colours. '* It was like
unto the palace of the goddess of beauty, and shone with a
lustre so great that all that was delightful on earth seemed to
have been gathered together and brought into one place."

The Mahawansa has also many references to the pleasant
parks and gardens of the city in which the ornamental baths
so frequently met with amongst the ruins were a special feature.
One of the gardens is said to have been famous for * * a bathing
hall that dazzled the eyes of the beholder, and from which
issued forth sprays of water conducted through pipes by means
of machines, making the place to look as if the clouds poured
down rain without ceasing."

Most of the remains of the city thus nobly enriched by the
greatest of Sinhalese kings are buried beneath many feet of
soil or hidden in the dense forest that has overgrown the many

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588

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Jetawanarama

Poionnaruwa thousands of acres over which they extend ; but many have
already been made accessible. The dagaJbas have all the
characteristics of their prototypes at Anurddhdpura save that
of equal antiquity, so we will not repeat descriptions already
given, but merely remark that they are numerous and in some
cases of enormous dimensions. We shall find more advantag^e
in interesting ourselves in those ruins which are distinctly
characteristic of the mediaeval city.

First, let us glance at the Jetawanarama temple, perhaps
the most imposing pile remaining (Plates 699 and 700). It is
a building of one hundred and seventy feet in length with walls
about twelve feet thick and eighty feet high. Though built
of red brick it appears to have been plastered with chunaniy
which still adheres in patches, as may easily be seen by- refer-
ence to plate 699. This is a view from the east showing the
entrance between the two polygonal turrets. The warm tints
of the crumbling bricks interspersed with lighter patches where
the polished chunam still remains have a pleasing effect in the
masses of green forest around, the complete scene when sud-
denly bursting on the sight being perhaps the most impressive
we shall meet with. The dilapidated figure of Buddha, sixty
feet high, opposite the entrance, gives a crestfallen appearance
to the whole. The exterior decoration of the building is dis-
tinctly Hindu in character, which is the more strange when
we consider that the Jetawana, after which this temple and its
adjoining monastery are supposed to be built, was the famous
temple of Buddha himself. But the curious mixture of Hindu
character with that which is purely Buddhist is a special feature
of the Polonnaruwan buildings. The cause is rather difficult
to determine. It may be due to the influence of the victorious
Hindus, who at intervals held the island during several cen-
turies, combined with the broad eclecticism of Buddhism, but
it is a question too abstruse and speculative to enter upon here.
There are doubtless beneath the soil foundations of many
noble buildings around this temple. ' The native chronicle refers
to eight stately houses of three stories built for the priests, and
for the chief priest a mansion of great splendour containing
many halls and chambers, also seventy image hpuses of three
stories, besides a great number of lesser halls and libraries.

Thuparama 'pj^^ Thuparama illustrated by plates 701 and 702 is no less

interesting and picturesque. It is an oblong brick building
with a square tower. The walls are very massive, and for the
most part quite five feet thick. It was to some extent explored
by Mr. S. M. Burrows in 1886, and the following is an extract
from his report to the Government : — ** The entrance to and
interior of this curious building was almost entirely blocked
up with fallen masonry and other dSbris, This has beett

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700. J ETA WAN ARAM A FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.

701. THE THUPARAMA.

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702. ENTRANCE OF THE THUPARAMA.

703. SAT-MAHAL-PRASADA. Digitized by CjOOQIC

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

591

removed at a considerable cost of labour, for most of the fallen Poionnaruwa
blocks of masonry were so large that they had to be broken Thuparama
up with the pickaxe before removal was possible. But the
labour was well expended, for the inner and principal shrine is
one of the very few buildings remaining to us in either capital
with a perfect roof; certainly the only building of such a size,
and it presents a very remarkable example of the dimensions
to which the false arch was capable of attaining. The frag-
ments of no less than twelve statues of Buddha (none quite,
though some very nearly, perfect) were found in this shrine,
while at the foot of the large brick statue of Buddha which
stands against the western wall a large granite slab or stone
seat .(* gal-dsanaya *) was uncovered, with an excellently pre-
served inscription running round its four sides.'*.

The following is a translation of the inscription referred to :

"His Majesty, Kalinga Chakrawarti Pardkrama Bdhu, who was a
descendant of the Okaka race, having made all Lanka's isle to
appear like a festive island, having made all Lanka like unto a
wishing-tree, having made all Lanka like unto ah incomparably
decorated house, having subjugated in war Sita, Choda, Cauda, etc.,
went to Maha Dambadiwa with great hosts ; and seeing that because
of his coming kings and others left their countries and came to
him for protection, he treated them with kindness and stilled their
fears ; and having met with no rival after his landing in Dambadiwa,
he erected pillars of victory, and again came to Lanka's isle. Lanka
having been neglected for a long time, he erected alms-houses at
different places throughout the whole of Dambadiwa and Ceylon ; -
and on his return spent ever so much treasure on mendicants. • Not
being content with all this, he determined on a distribution of alms
four times in every year, and by (giving) gold, jewels, cloth,
ornaments, etc., having extinguished the poverty of the inhabitants
of the world, and done good to the world and to religion, this is
the seat on which he sat to allay body weariness."

The Thuparama is suffering greatly from the inroads of
vegetation. Parasitic plants take root ' in the crevices, and
growing into great trees rend the walls.

The Sat-mahal-prasada, or palace of seven stories, is
another building the origin of which is veiled in mystery.
Statues ornament each storey, and there are traces of a stair-
case within, but it does not appear to lead to the summit, which
can only be reached from without by means of ladders. There
is an exterior flight of steps leading however only to the* top
of the first storey.

The most venerable of all the relics of Buddha, the tooth,
experienced so many vicissitudes and translations during the
Tamil wars that the stories of its various hiding places, and
the temples built for its reception, as recorded, in the ancient
chronicles, are somewhat confusing. In the account of Para-
krama*s foundation at Polonnaruwa we read of the beautiful

Sat-mahal"
prasada

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592

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

DaJada
Maligawa

Gal wihtire

temple he built ; and very little later again the historian tells of
the temple built for it in the same city by Nissanka Malla, who
came to the throne a.d. i 198,- only two years after Parakrama's
death. And as there are other allusions to the arrival of the
tooth ;at Polonnaruwa at a later date, it may well be inferred
that it was at various intervals removed for safety. ' It is
curious, however, that both Parakrama and Nissanka Malla
should have built magnificent temples for the same object about
the same date, and to which of these kings to ascribe the
building known^as the Dalada Maligawa at Polonnaruwa, the
remains' of which present the most beautiful specimen of stone
work yet discovered (see plate 704), it is difficult to decide. The
Mahawansa says that Nissanka ** built of stone the beautiful
temple of the tooth relic,** and what we* see is generally at-
tributed to him ; but possibly the earlier description refers to
the same building, although it is generally supposed that Para-
krama *s shrine was a curious and elaborate circular building
known as the Wata L)dg6, and that a second temple was built
for the tooth by Nissanka.

It will be noticed from our plate that, considering its age,
the stone work is in beautiful preservation. The roof has
gone, but the mouldings and toolings of the granite have
scarcely suflfercd at all from their exposure of seven centuries.

One of the most interesting of the discoveries at Polon-
naruwa is a rock temple with three colossal figures and a shrine
carved out of one huge boulder of dark brown granite (Plate
705). This is known as the Gal ivihdre. In spite of appear-
ances these figures are still part of the rock in which they were
hewn. The work is very cleverly done, and especially the
recumbent statue of Buddha, which is forty-six feet in length.
The head rests upon the right hand supported on a bolster into
which it sinks very naturally, suggesting nothing but perfect
repose ; the folds of the robe are also carved with equal felicity.
The erect statue is thought to represent Anada, the favourite
disciple of Buddha. It is twenty-three feet high, and stands on
a pedestal ornamented with lotus leaves. Beyond this is the
entrance to the temple itself, and within an altar and an image
of Buddha in sitting posture, all carved out of the same rock
in similar high relief. The shrine has been profusely decorated
and coloured -by modern devotees. At the farther end will be
noticed a large sitting statue of Bud(lha, the figure alone being
fifteen feet high. It is a most elaborate work, with a back-
ground of carved pagodas, and the pedestal is ornamented
with a frieze of lions and quaint emblems. There is no doubt
as to the date of this striking and curious specimen of rock
temple, as it is referred to in the Mahawansa as the work of the
great Parakrama.

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704. THE DALADA MALIGAWA AT POLONNARUWA.

705. GAL WIHARE

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707. SUPPOSED STATUE OF PARAKRAfVtA THE GREAT

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

595

A complete description of even those ruins that have been
discovered in the explorations that have been made with such
limited resources is beyond the scope of the present work.
How many still lie hidden in the dense forest it is impossible
to say, but when we look at the records of only those which
were built during one or two of the most prosperous reigns we
cannot help being impressed with the possibilities of the great
** finds *' that will be made when the whole province is again
cleared and brought under cultivation. The railways will
convey thousands of visitors from every part of the vVorld to
these ancient cities, which will surely find their rightful place
among the monuments of the world.

We must not take our leave of the Polonnaruwan remains
without a glimpse at one which seems to deserve a parting
glance. A walk of a little more than a mile along the lofty
embankment of the Topawewa, one of the most remarkable
instances of the highest art concealing itself,* and* more beau-
tiful than ever now that it has been left for so- many centuries
to the great artificer. Nature, brings us to a large hummock of
rock abruptly rising from the plain. In this rock is a striking
statue of King Parakrama carved, like that of the recumbent
Buddha, in the solid rock (Plate 707). The monarch, who
raised most of the temples and monuments of the city, stands
with his back to his great works holding an ola, or palm leaf
book, in his hands as if at the end of his glorious reign he had
found in the study of the Buddhist scriptures his final con-
solation.

With the death of Parakrama in 1197 the power of the
Sinhalese nation began to decline. For a few years only at
the beginning of the thirteenth century was the country again
under capable government. The prosperity and wealth to
which the city had attained only served to excite the rapacity
of invaders. The Tamils, twenty thousand strong, under a
chief named Magha, took Polonnaruwa in the year 12 15 and
laid waste the whole country. *' This Magha,*' says the
Mahawansa, who was like unto a fierce drought, com-
manded his army of strong men to ransack the kingdom 'of
Lanka, even as a wild fire doth a forest. Thereupon these
wicked disturbers of the peace stalked about the. land hither
and thither crying out boastfully, 'Lo! we are the giants of
Kerala.* And they robbed the inhabitants of their garlands
and their jewels and everything that they had. They cut off
also the hands and feet of the people and despoiled their
dwellings. Their oxen, buffaloes, and other beasts they bound
up and carried away forcibly. The rich men they tied up with
cord and tortured, and took possession of all their wealth and
brought them to poverty. They broke down the image houses

Poloniuiruwa

Decline of the
Sinhalese nation

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596

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Polonnaruwa and destroyed many cetiyas. They took up their dwellings in
the viharas and beat the pious laymen therein. They flogged
children and sorely distressed the ^ve ranks of the religious
orders. They compelled the people to carry burdens and made
them labour heavily. Many books also of great excellence did
they loose from the cords that bound them and cast them away
in divers places. Even the great and lofty cetiyas they spared
not, but utterly destroyed them, and caused a great many bodily
relics Which were unto them as their lives to disappear thereby.
Alas ! alas ! Even so did those Tamil giants, like the giants of
Mara, destroy the kingdom and religion of the land. And then
they surrounded the city of Polonnaruwa on every side, and took
Parakrama Pandu captive and plucked out his eyes, and robbed
all the treasures that were therein w'ith all the pearls and
precious stones.***

* The quotations from the Mabawansa in this chapter have been taken
from the translation of Mudaliyar L. C. Wijesinha.

708. ELEPHANTS IN THE JUNGLE.

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THE NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY

{Continued)

AnurAdhApura to Kangesanturai.

Madawachchi (97m. 31C.). — The railway here approaches Madawachchi
and passes over the main road which leads to the Giant's Tank
and Manaar. The station takes its name from the nearest
village, which is situated at the junction of the Jaffna and
Manaar roads three miles distant. The cyclist or motorist can
easily visit the Giant's Tank, which is thirty-five miles from
Madawachchi. It is one of the most stupendous of the ancient
irrigation works in the island, having a retaining bund three
hundred feet broad (see plates 11 and 12), which originally
extended for fifteen miles. There is a good rest-house at the
tank, as also at the village of Madawachchi.

\'avuniya (mm. 77c.). — Upon nearing Vavuniya we arrive vavuniya
m the Northern Province, the part of Ceylon which has for
centuries been known as the Wanni, comprising that portion
of the island which lies between Jaffna in the north, Manaar on
the west coast, and Trincomali on the east ; altogether about
2,000 square miles. The country is generally flat and covered
with thick forest and jungle, save where masses of black rock
rear their gaunt heads above the foliage. Nevertheless here
and there a few hills lend a welcome relief to the monotony, as
do here the Madukanda range, which forms a background of
beauty to the Vavuniya tank.. For nine months of the year,
January to September, it is the driest part of the island, and
cultivation depends on the numerous irrigation tanks. Only
one perennial fresh water lake exists in the whole province, .and
this is said to be partly artificial. The rivers flow only during
the rains from October to December; at other times they are
mere beds of dry sand. The Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis says that,
** viewing the country from the top of one of the high rocks
already noticed, nothing is seen but a sea of forest on all sides,
of different shades of green, with here and there a dark mass
rising out of it indicating the site of another rock of the same

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598

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern

Line

Vavuniya

The scenery

The people

description. On the horizon are the outlines of one or two
blue hills, Mihintale or some other rock of the North-Central
Province. Not a village is to be distinguished, but in some
places a slight break in the forest shows the position of a tank
and its paddy fields.

** Travelling along the roads, which for the most part pass
through thick jungle, one is sometimes oppressed with the
monotony of the forest, particularly where it is, as in some
places, composed almost entirely of one or two species of
sombre-looking trees, such as pdlai and viniL This is especially
the case on the main road to Jaffna, where, as the jungle has
been cleared back to some distance on each side of the road,
there is little shade. The forest scenery on some of the minor
roads, however, and on the old road to Mullaittivu, is often
very picturesque, with long vistas through trees standing like
a series of columns on either side of the road, some" of them
with curiously twisted -trunks. Every shade of green, from the
darkest in some of the foliage trees to the brightest in the grass
which covers the road, flecked with sunlight, combines to add
to the effect.

** In the spring many of the trees put on new leaves, some
of which are very light green, and others, such as those of the
panichchai, dark red. Fine views can generally be had at this
season across the tanks, bordered as they usually are by the
largest trees, the autumnal tints of some of the foliage helping
to set off the prevailing green. . . . Looking across the
lagoons one sees a long stretch of water bordered on the
horizon by a line of forest, to which distance gives a bluish tint.
Sometimes in the bright sunlight the atmosphere seems to
dance, and sky and water to merge into one in the far distance,
with clumps of trees suspended, as it were, in mid-air, the
general effect being very much that of a mirage. A sunset or
sunrise seen across this flat country is often very fine.''*

The inhabitants are mostly Tamils, with a sprinkling of
Sinhalese and Moormen. Their condition is very low in the
social scale. The villages consist of a few enclosed plots or
courtyards, each containing several rude huts built with mud
walls of about four feet high and a single door, to enter which
it is necessary to stoop very low. There are no windows, and
amid the semi-darkness of the interior the family reclines upon
the mud floor or at best upon mats, the whole dwelling being
innocent of furniture. Food consisting of kurrakan (a kind of
millet), or paddy, is kept in a receptacle constructed with sticks
interlaced in basket fashion and coated with mud, like the
bissa of the central province described on page 396. The

* Manual of the Vanni Districts by J. P. Lewis, M.A., Ceylon Civil
Service.

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^■tetaj^^t* . .^i^^- 1

^^ ^

709. MADAWACHCHI STATION.

710. VAVUNIYA STATION.

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Goo

THE BOOK OF CEYLpN.

Northern

Line

Vavunlya

The people

courtyard is furnished with other necessaries to existence in
the shape of earthenware pots and mortars for pounding grain,
and ploughs, and is inhabited by poultry and the ubiquitous
pariah dog. In the more prosperous villages the squalid
dwelling is surrounded by a wealth of fruit trees, oranges,
limes, and plantains. Magnificent tamarind trees of great age
are also plentiful. The people exist in great poverty, and
apparently without any ambition to better their lot, and such is
their indolence that the offer of good wages will not stimulate
them to the slightest exertion. A paternal government exacts
from them a certain amount of cornmunal labour in connection
with the irrigation of their lands, but even this they frequently
evade until compelled by prosecution under the ordinances that
have been framed for the common good. TJiis lack of energy,
however, which is in striking contrast to the industry of their
brethren in the Jaffna peninsula, calls for sympathy, since it is
bred of the poverty-stricken conditions that have existed in
these districts during the centuries that have passed since their
ancestors devastated the once fair province and left it to decay.
They are the miserable remnant of conquerors who knew not
how to colonise, and their indolence is due not so much to
mere habit as to their physical degeneration.

The people of the Wanni were doubtless in a more flourish-
ing condition before the invasion of the European, when they
had their chieftains, the vassals of the Tamil rajahs, who held
court at Jaffna. Their impoverishment probably began when
the Portuguese took Jaffna and relentlessly exacted tribute from
them by force of arms. The Dutch followed with further
devastation in their train, but still failed in the task of subjuga-
tion. In these continued struggles irrigation works were
neglected, agriculture was abandoned, a general decay set in,
and jungle crept over the land. As time went on the wild and
dangerous denizens of the forest increased enormously at the
expense of man, who retreated to any place that promised
security, till at length, when the British took possession, the
first efforts in the direction of amelioration took the form of
the destruction of the elephants and leopards.

But it must not be supposed that there is no prospect of
improvement in the condition of the poor villager in this un-
fruitful part of the country. His lot is a difficult problem to
the Government, but is nevertheless its constant care. It is as
necessary to provide means as to inculcate the lessons of self-
help, and both are being done. The Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis,
who was in charge of the Northern Province for a considerable
time, says : ** With all their faults the Vanni people are an
eas}\ people to deal with, and one cannot help liking them.
They are hospitable and not disobliging. Some of their ideas

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

60 1

are very primitive. Government, as represented by the Assis- Northern
tant Agent, is all-powerful, and they go with their complaints *-'■«
to him on every conceivable subject." v«vuniy«

There is game of all kinds, large and small, throughout this Game
province, but not so abundant as half a century ago. It is,
however, a somewhat difficult country for the sportsman, who
should consult Mr. Storey's book, to which previous reference
has been made. Elephants in small numbers inhabit all parts.
Deer, pig, bears, and leopards are not easily bagged, owing
to the widespread density of the forests and jungle. The
natives shoot large game to a great extent at night from
ambushes in the vicinity of water holes, an excellent means of
ridding themselves of bears by whom they are liable to be
attacked, and of leopards who destroy their cattle; but un-
fortunately the slaughter is extended to other game, with the
result that it is fast disappearing. The birds that are plentiful
include pigeons, hawks, partridge, quail, egret, hornbill, teal,
fiamingoe, and peafowl. Crocodiles are large and very
numerous in the tanks and lagoons, often wandering far from
the water in search of food, and sometimes satisfying their
hunger with human flesh.

Such is the country which we pass through for a hundred
miles between Galgamuwa and Paranthan.

Maxkulam (140m. 2ic.). — Mankulam is in the very centre Mankuiam
of the Northern Province. It is the nearest point of the rail-
way to Mullaittivu, the seat of administration for the district,
which is thirty miles to the east. There is very good sport of
all kinds to be obtained from Mankulam, and it is the most
convenient spot for the sportsman, there being four rest-houses
within seven miles and a regular bullock-coach service with
Mullaittivu. The district is, however, very sparsely inhabited
by man. The land is fertile and admirably adapted for the
cultivation of tobacco. Mankulam station affords an instance
of trade following the railway, cart-loads of dried fish being
brought daily from Mullaittivu on the east coast and despatched
by rail to feed the coolies of the tea estates in the mountain
districts.

Paranthan (163m. 6c.). — This station is principally used for P««'«nth«n
the despatch of timber. Satinwood, for which the district is
famous, is the chief freight. There is no local accommodation,
and the station is five miles from the village whose name
it bears.

Elephant Pass (169m. 41c.). — There is a natural curiosjty Elephant
as to the origin of the name Elephant Pass, and the explana- *****
tions given are plausible enough. Jaffna is a peninsula joined

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6o2 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern Line to the mainland by a long causeway, which at one time was a
Elephant Pass shallow ford. By this ford herds of wild 'elephants were in the
habit of visiting Jaffna during July and August, the ripening
season of the palmyra fruit. Palmyra palms abound here, and
the elephant is particularly fond of the fruit, which grows in
' luxuriant clusters, each of which is a good cooly load. If a
sufficiency of fruit had not fallen from the mature trees the
elephants would pull down the younger plants for the sake of
their, tender leaves. This is the theory adopted by Tennent,
but it is equally reasonable to attribute the name to the use
made of this ford by the natives in bringing elephants from
thejnainland to the fort as tribute to the Portuguese and Dutch,
who 'shipped them to Indian markets.

There is no railway station at Elephant Pass, but the train
stops for passengers. There is a quaint and picturesque old
rest-house at the edge of the lagoon, facing the sea on one side
and the lagoon on the other. It was once a Dutch fort, but
now serves the purpose of accommodating seekers after health
and recreation, and it is generally considered to be the most
comfortable rest-house in Ceylon. Duck-shooting and fishing
can be indulged in to any extent, and the salubrity of the place
is beyond question.

Pallai (176m. 54c.). — In approaching Pallai we become
aware that the whole character of the country and its in-
habitants have suddenly changed. Orderly cultivation takes
the place of jungle and forest, and a large, healthy and in-
dustrious population succeeds to the indolent and degenerate
peasantry who have aroused our pity during our journey
.through their poverty-stricken districts. Pallai has a popula-
tion of five thousand, ten Roman Catholic churches, and one
of the' Church Missionary Society ; curiously the latter institu-
tion has seven schools. to three of the Roman Catholics. The
cocoanut is again seen flourishing here, and the large extent of
-its cultivation is evidenced in the railway freight of coprah,
240 tons being despatched to Colombo alone during the month
of my visit. Pottery is .also amongst the manufactures.

KoDiKAMAM (185m. 77c.}. — This Station serves the important
town of Point Pedro, ten miles distant and the northernmost
port in Ceylon. There is a daily coach service between the
two places.

Point Pedro is almost the extreme point of Ceylon. It
cannot boast of a harbour; but the coral reef which guards the
shore affords shelter and a safe anchorage. The little town is
neat and trim. We notice at once that care is bestowed on
the upkeep of roads, bungalows, and gardens, betokening the
presence of an industrious population. It derives its import-

Pallai

Kodikamam

Digiti

zed by Google

711. THE REST-HOUSE JAFFNA.

712. DUTCH HOUSES IN MAIN STREET, JAFFNA.

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

713. AMBALAM AT POINT PEDRO.

714. JAFFNA STATION.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

605-

ance from the circumstance that the town of Jaffna, on the Northern Line
western side of the peninsula, can never be approached by
ships within some miles, owing to the way in which the water
shoals towards the coast ; while in the south-west monsoon
ships of eight or ten feet draft cannot come near enough to
receive and discharge cargo at this. port. At such a time Point
Pedro and Kangesanturai, although open roadsteads, are in-
valuable anchorages.

One of the most curious features of Point Pedro is its
amhalam, or resting-place for travellers, which is built oh both
sides of the road, over which a massive archway is carried.
This place serves the same purpose as those- which have been .
described in Section II., dealing with the Kandyan country,
but is unique in its architecture.

Chavakachcheri (190m. 41C.). — As we approach this town^jj^avakach-
the surprising neatness of garden culture attracts our attention.
The villages are numerous, and disclose a closely-packed popu-
lation, and the roads everywhere are in perfect condition.
Large groves of the palmyra palm take the place of the cocoa-
nut which flourishes further south. Tons of eggs are amongst
the articles of food constantly despatched to Colombo, the
railway having opened up the distant markets to the industrious
Tamils, with the effect of raising prices locally, but at the same
time contributing considerably to the wealth of the poultry
farmer. The Americans have chosen Jaffna as a field for
missionary effort, and two of their churches are in this village,
the population of which is 3,500.

Navatkuli (195m. 71c.). — Navatkuli possesses similar Navatkuil
characteristics to those of the preceding station, from which
it is but five miles distant.

Jaffna (200m. 24c.). — Jaffna, the capital of the Northjern J«Wn«
Province and the seat of its administration, is an extensive and
well ordered town of about 35,000 inhabitants. • Its climate is'
warm, equable, and dry. The- Dutch, who adopted the penin-
sula as one of their chief settlements, regarded it as particularly
healthy, an opinion which is endorsed by its -present- rulers.
It is especially beneficial in the cure of lung diseases, and
should, now that it has become accessible by rail, prove a useful
sanatorium for those who need open-air treatment. At present
it possesses too little accommodation for the visitor, there being
only one hostelry — the rest-house — and that is in a warm situa-
tion, but it is spacious and comfortable, and suffices for short
visits.

Agriculture is the chief occupation of the inhabitants. The
palmyra palm, described at some length on page 275, is at

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6o6

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern
Line

Palmyra
cultivation

Tobacco

once the most conspicuous and the most beautiful feature of
the landscape. The traveller will especially admire those forests
of this palm which have increased at such different periods that
the crowns of broad fan-like leaves rise in tiers from the fore-
ground, young ones of ten feet, receding in deep belts of thirty,
fifty, and seventy feet high, backed by the mature forest reach-
ing one hundred or more.

Toddy is extracted from the palmyra much in the same
manner as from the cocoanut palm (see page 141), but instead
of being distilled is boiled down into a syrup, which, upon
cooling, crystallises into a kind of sugar, known locally as
jO'ggery. There are other forms of food extracted from the
palmyra, too numerous to be described here. The w-ood, unlike
that of the cocoanut, is very hard and durable, and is much
used for building purposes. The leaves, too, have numberless
uses, many of which will be evident to the traveller, for they
provide all the fences of the garden and compounds, the roofs
of all the native dwellings, the mats upon which the native
sleeps, and the baskets in which he carries water for irrigating
his fields.

Tobacco, although it does not supply the cultivator directly
with all the necessaries of life as the palmyra does, is next in
importance, and economically is the most valuable of all the
products of Jaffna, there being upwards of ten thousand acres
in cultivation, yielding about seven million pounds per annum.
The quality is coarse, but strong and full flavoured. It is not
such as to find favour with Europeans, but is thoroughly
grateful to the taste of the natives of both Ceylon and India,
lilost of it is exported to the mainland. Attempts have
frequently been made to grow leaf of more delicate aroma, and
with some success, but it does not suit the local market, and
therefore finds little favour with the Tamil grower, who has not
the spirit of enterprise or the ambition necessary to successfully
compete with the purveyors of the white man's cigar. The
Jaffna weed is pre-eminently the natives* fancy, and is likely to
retain its hold when the large expanse of uncultivated land of
the Northern Province, through which we have passed on our
way to Jaffna, has been reclaimed for growing tobacco for the
Western markets. It is certain that the Jaffna Tamil must
sooner or later extend his boundaries, for every inch of the
peninsula is under cultivation, and the population is already too
dense. With the new railway facilities he will infallibly spread
southward, and as a born agriculturist he will obtain from the
soil whatever of profit it will yield. Nevertheless the question
of extending the tobacco fields is not a simple one, since the
quantity of coarse and pungent tobacco grown for the local and
Indian market already suffices, and the fine and delicate quali-

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715. PALMYRAS.

716. TOBACCO

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717. ENTRANCE TO THE DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA.

718. THE WELL IN A TOBACCO FIELD.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON. 609

ties required in the more distant markets demand patient and Northern
careful experiment. In this, however, the Government will *-'"*
lend its scientific aid through. the agency of the department of J*""*
botany and -agriculture. Irrigation, in which the native culti-
vator cannot easily take the initiative, except in the hill country,
has perhaps more than anything else restrained the Jaffnese.
On the peninsula it is an easy matter, because an unlimited
supply of water is obtainable from never-failing wells.

It has been asserted by several writers that these wells y^^JJif^'*//"
maintain a uniform level at all seasons owing to percolation
from the sea, but this theory has been combated by Mr.- C. V.
Bellamy, who states that the geological formation of the
greater part of the peninsula is of such a character " that rain
water received at the surface descends into and occupies not
only occasional crevices and caverns but the entire space of all
the small interstices of the lower parts of the stratum. To
this is due the fact that in spite of the comparatively small
annual rainfall and of the frequency of long droughts, Jaffna,
so far as lies within the limestone area, may be safely declared
never to be in actual want of - ' ^r,

** A distinctive feature of «. lestone formations is their
cavernous nature, and large caves, when occurring at lower
levels, form reservoirs into which water has percolated through
the surface rock, and where large bodies of water must ac-
cumulate. Wells sunk into the limestone are seldom known
to fail, and though it has been so often asserted that the water
found therein is really sea water deprived of its saline properties
through filtration, the fallacy of such an assertion is proved by
two instances occurring on the northern coast where a perennial
stream of fresh water gushes forth on the sea shore. One of
these is to be found at about half a mile to the west of Point
Pedro, but is merely a small spring bubbling up through the
rocks on the beach, and to be seen only, when the tide is low.
That it is not sea water, returning from a cavern filled by tlie
flood tide, may be concluded from its being fresh and hot salt.

**The other, and particularly to the native mind, far more
important spring is found at Keerimalai, two miles west of
Kangesanturai, known generally as the Holy Springs. A con-
siderable volume of water issues here close to the sea, and has
been looked upon by Hindoos from time immemorial as possess-
ing miraculous healing powers.

*' It is still a place of pilgrimage, * a spot more holy than
all other sacred places in the world,' to which many hundreds
of Hindoos from both Ceylon and India resort at certain times -
of the year, and many are the traditions recounting the
miraculous cures it has effected, but whether there is any virtue
whatever in the spring, or whether mere superstition has given

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6io

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern

Line

Jaffna

Irrigation of
the tobacco
fiilds

it notoriety, it is impossible to say. The story of the princess
who exchanged her equine face for one radiant beyond compare,
delightful as it may be, is rather too much for modern readers
to believe. Apart, however, from its supposed powers, it is
at least remarkable that this spring has flowed continuously
from prehistoric times unabated, unaffected alike by droughts
or rains, a silent witness to the truth, with which the good folk
of Jaffna may console themselves that the water they drink,
however hard and unpalatable it may be, is not sea water but
fresh, charged not with the saltness of the sea but with the
saline and calcareous properties of the rock in which it
abounds. '/

The irrigation of the tobacco fields, as well as that of the
extensive fruit and flower gardens which everywhere abound,
is primitive and peculiar. Water is* obtained exclusively from
the wells, and it is raised after sunset by labourers in the
following manner : — The w'ell sweep, a horizontal lever in the
form of a log of wood about fifteen feet long, is so attached to
a high post that it will act like the see-saw beloved of village
children in Europe; a woven basket of palmyra leaves is at-
tached to the end of the lever over the well. A couple of coolies
then play see-saw by walking to and fro on the log, making the
basket descend- and return again full of water by this useful
kind of sentry-go. Thousands of coolies draw water during
the night, and others distribute it over the fields and gardens.
Sometimes one coolie is sufficient for the lever. Another
labourer, generally a woman, stands near and directs the basket
in its ascent, and empties it into the necessary channel by which
it is conducted to the plants (see plates 718, 719, and 720).
The well sweep is usually shaded by trees to shield the labourers
at work upon it from the direct rays of the sun. An example
of this will be noticed in plate 719. In the same picture will be
noticed a curious little thatched building called a kudil, which
serves as a rack or manger for the small cattle that work on
the fields ; fodder is placed within the railed square, and the
beasts in feeding are thus protected from the sun. The kudil
is seen in every field.

We are amazed no less at the orderly and neat cultivation
than at its variety. Every kind of ** curry-stuff " seems to
grow in Jaffna, which also produces the best fruits of the island.
A large export trade is done in them, which is paid for by the
importation of rice. Dry grains are easily grown ; but rice,
which requires mUch water, is unsuited to the soil and climate,
and is therefore not much cultivated on the peninsula.

The fields are fenced in by palings formed of the middle
ribs of palmyra leaves, or by such plants as aloes and cactus,
which effectually -keep out intruders. In no other part of

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719. WELL SWEEP AND KUDIL.

m ^^^^^^ ^w >*.

^ A 4 *

-J

720. THE METHOD OF IRRIGATING THE TOBACCO FIELD&

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721. DUTCH CHURCH IN JAFFNA FORT.

722. DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

613

The old

Dutch

church

Ceylon will the visitor see such fine crops of brinjals, chilies, Northern
ginger, gourds, melons, yams, sweet potatoes, and arrowroot. ^'■'*

There is no town in Ceylon which still bears on its features •*•**"■
the impress of the Dutch occupation so completely as does
JaflFna. This is doubtless owing to the architecture of its most
prominent buildings — the Fort and the bungalows. The Fort The Fort
is built of coral, and shows no sign of decay at the present day.
Some idea of the masonry can be gathered from our little
pictures. Within its enclosure are several fine buildings : a
massive church in the form of a Greek cross, the" Queen's
House, occupied by the Governor of the colony upon official
visits. Government offices and police quarters. There are now
very few Dutch Presbyterians resident in Jaffna, and in con-
sequence the church has bei^ome disused and its furniture
removed. The size of the church and the large number of
tombs of Dutch officials testify to the importance of Jaffna in
the Dutch period. In a recent article referring to this church
the Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis says :

** That it is in such a good state of preservation is due to
the substantial and massive character of the building qualities
which are always found in the work of the Dutch. The walls
are from four to fi\c feet thick, built of rubble and coral stone,
of which the fort also is constructed, and having a covering of
cement. The floor is paved with the rectangular stones some-
thing under two feet square, which the Dutch seem to have
used for this purpose in all their larger buildings. The pillars,
arches, and pediments of the doorways are in the thin yellow
bricks that the Dutch also appear to have imported.

** The date over the main entrance is 1706, but an older
building probably occupied this site, as the church contains
tombstones of, inter alia, 1666, 1672, 1673, and 1693, let into
the floor, and no doubt in situ,

**The Portuguese church, according to the plan of the fort
in Baldaeus's book, stood near the opposite corner of the fort
green, so that the Dutch would seem to have built a church on
a diff'erent site, and this church was either rebuilt or a new
church built in 1706. I should be inclined to think the former.

** The present church possesses the bell of its Portuguese
predecessor, bearing the legend x.s. dos milagres he jafana-
PATAO, * our Lady of Miracles of Jaffnapatam,' and the date
1648. The bell was until recently in the belfry, but has been re-
moved into the vestry for better preservation."

Plate 723 depicts the organ gallery, which contains a
quaint panel carved in high relief representing King David,
apparently in advanced years, having lost his hair, yet retain-
ing the magic touch with which he soothed the troubled mind
of his predecessor with strains from his favourite instrument.

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6i4

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Northern

Line

Jaffna

Main Strut

Dutch
houus

Portuguese
remains

Here he is seen playing the accompaniment to his own songs,
his eyes resting upon the book of psalms in Greek which is
lying on an eighteenth century reading desk !

Our illustration (Plate 725) depicts the ** Commanderer's "
pew, which is at the angle of the chancel and south transept.
The pew and the stalls are of various Ceylon woods, the
mouldings of the stalls being of ebony.

A more picturesque view of this fine old Dutch church,
which every visitor to Jaffna should see, is given on page 23.
Other remains of Dutch architecture in Jaffna worthy of the
visitor's attention are the buildings in Main Street (see
plate 712), where the gables and verandahs will especially claim
notice. In this street is a house, now ow-ned and occupied by
a Tamil member of the bar, which contains some elaborately
carved doors of massive character with finely engraved brass
plates and hinges, bearing witness, in the sumptuous appoint-
ments of the Dutch houses, to the contrast between the earlier
colonisation and that of the present day, when the modern
houses contain scarcely any suggestion of the home country,
and are obviously regarded by their occupants as a temporary
residence and not as a permanent home, a difference perhaps
attributable to the steamship, which has brought the East and
West, in time, so near together.

There are also many remains of the earlier Portuguese
occupation worthy the attention of the visitor, notably the fine
ruined church and monastery illustrated by plates 13, 14 and
15 in the first part of this work. These ruins will be found
on the Kayts road near the eighth milestone from Jaffna. The
drive is a most pleasant one, and as comfortable carriages can
be readily hired at Jaffna it should not be missed. Another
Portuguese ruin of an equally interesting character will be
found at Achchaveli, eleven miles from Jaffna on the Point
Pedro road. • This is an excellent drive to take for the inspec-
tion of the tobacco fields.

The visitor can make himself very comfortable at Jaffna,
especially from December to February, when the temperature
is moderate. The rest-house is not all that could be desired in
such a large town, but it faces an open park-like space with
fine avenues. The town generally gives a favourable im-
pression. Its bungalows are spacious, well-built, and clean ;
its streets are wide and well-tended, while its gardens and
commons are so well kept as to suggest that there are no idle
folk amongst the inhabitants. In fact, everyone is very busy
at Jaffna, and we find that about as much work is done
thoroughly there for one rupee as is half done in Colombo for
double the amount.

We have referred to the race that inhabits Jaffna as one of

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723 KINO DAVID AND THE ORGAN OAU.ERY.

JiPI^I^^^B

734. DUTCH DOORWAY WITH ENGRAVED MOUNTINGS
IN BRASS.

729. THE "OOMMANOERER'8- PEW.

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1 — , __ ^ — J

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

617

agriculturists ; but we also find industrious artisans working in Northern Line
the carpentry, jewellery, and other trades. The goldsmiths J««n«
are ingenious, and have formed very distinct styles and patterns
that are peculiar to them. Their bangles, brooches, chains,
and rings are beautiful in design and workmanship, while their
tools are of the most primitive order and few in number.

There are many other things of considerable interest in
Jaffna which we must pass over here, but with which the visitor
will make himself acquainted.

Chunakam (206m. 14c.). — Chunakara is the half-way station Chunakam
between the town of Jaffna and the terminus of the railway on
the northern shore. There is no accommodation for the visitor,
who will merely pass through on his trip to Kangesanturai.
Between Jaffna and this place may be seen in its greatest
variety and profusion every species of agriculture with which
the Tamil has enriched the peninsula.

Kangesanturai (211m. i8c.). — Kangesanturai is the Ultima {^^"Jf*"""
Thule of the Ceylon Government Railway, and were it not that
in this volume a few lines may be desirable about Trincomali
and the pearl fishery I would fain take VirgiPs epithet to
myself, ** Tibi serviat Ultima Thule,*' for I have exhausted my
vocabulary, although I trust I have not exhausted the patience
of the reader. The visitor should take this journey to
the extreme north for the sake of the interesting scenes that
present themselves to the last. At Kangesanturai he will find
comfortable quarters, invigorating sea breeze, and an excellent
fish tiffin at the rest-house, which is situated close to the
remains of a Portuguese fort depicted in plate 727. There is
a tradition current in Jaffna that the Dutch, disapproving of
the site of this fort for the chief defences of the north, deter-
mined to transfer it to Jaffna, and as bullock carts were scarce
in those days they formed a line of cooly slaves for twelve
miles, passing the blocks of coral by hand to the site where
we see the magnificent fort which they erected at the latter
place. The chief features of the quiet little port to-day are the
lighthouse and the remains of the old fort that has been
lashed by the surf for four centuries.

As we dwell upon the striking scenes that the little peninsula
has afforded us, and contrast them in our minds with the wild
and uncultivated lands which we have seen further south, we
cannot resist the conclusion that the possession of economic
qualities is, after all, to be preferred to scenery.

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TRINCOMALI.

Trincomali

Tht route
vid MAtali

Habarant

No European resident or visitor in Ceylon can be said to
have availed himself of all its attractions who has not passed
through the wilds of the northern parts, explored its most
interesting antiquities, shared in the sport which the almost
uninhabited regions afford, and, last but not least, visited its
most beautiful port, Trincomali.

It will be seen from our map that Trincomali may be reached
vidr Vavuniya, Anurddhdpurd, or Mdtale. The Mdtale route,
though the longest, affords the best road. A mail coach runs
from Miital^ to Trincomali daily, particulars of which can be
found by use of the index. The journey is also quite prac-
ticable for motor-cars or bicycles. We have already made the
acquaintance of this road as far as Habarane, whither we now
return.

Habarane is really in the centre of some excellent hunting
grounds, and although it is the fashion to say that game in
this locality is getting scarce, there is plenty of evidence to the
contrary. Here is a vast wilderness of two or three thousand
square miles, consisting of beautiful and valuable forest trees,
interspersed with strips of open plain and vast artificial lakes,
the remnants of bygone ages, which not even the destructive
tooth of time has been able to obliterate.

Let us visit one of these secluded spots not too frequently
disturbed by the white man, and we shall be surprised at the
countless number of living creatures that haunt the vicinity of
a stretch of water in remote solitudes. Here a telescope may
be of greater interest than a gun. Concealed beneath the shade
of some beautiful tree, one may watch the habits of animals in
their natural freedom. This occupation has a wonderful charm
on a calm evening, with a tropical sunset glowing upon the
dense jungles, whence all manner of creatures are seen to
emerge and steal gently down the open glades to refresh them-
selves by draughts of water. A distant sound like the blast of
a horn reaches our ears, and we scan the thickets of the opposite
shore : a majestic elephant is trumpeting to his herd ; they obey

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^^.1

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730. HABARANE REST-HOUSE.

731. VILLAGE SCENE NEAR DAMBULLA.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 621

his summons to the evening bath, and some six or eigh't are Habarane
seen to disport themselves in the shallow waters, which they Thecrea-
hurl over their bodies in great showers. Noises betoken the jL'^u
approach of greater numbers as the sun gradually disappears
below the horizon. The shrill bark of deer, the grunt of the
boar, and the screams of a myriad birds mingle as the con- •

gregation increases. The reptiles and birds are not the least
interesting; crocodiles, kabaragoyas, and iguanas are present
in great numbers ; but the endless variety of the larger birds is
the most astounding feature of these lonely shores. There are
cranes nearly six feet high; pelicans like little heaps of snow
gently propelling themselves over the smooth surface of the
water; the pretty little water-pheasants with their glittering
heads standing upon the lotus leaves; the adjutant stalking
after the reptiles ; ducks innumerable and of finest plumage ;
teal of the most delicious species ; while the gaudiest peacocks
strut upon the plain. Here is a paradise for the naturalist as
well as the sportsman. We must, however, pursue our jour-
ney to Trincomali.

Every fifteen miles brings us to a rest-house, and from Travelling
every rest-house we can make a sporting excursion into the -^^''*'*"
jungle if that is our will. The traveller who is merely journey-
ing to Trincomali will need very little commissariat. If he is
cycling (a method of locomotion. pleasant enough on this road)
he will need to carry only a change of flannels, and will find
most of the rest-houses provisioned with such light refresh-
ments as he may need; or he can travel through by coaches,
of which there is a regular service carrying his Majesty's
mails.

From Habarane to Alutoya forms the next .stage. The Aiutoya
road here is very beautiful, owing to the undulations and the
character of the forest, which is rich in fine timber trees. Occa-
sionally we come across a straight of a mile or two in length,
and in the distance we see herds of wild hogs cross from one
side to the other ; here and there grey jackals put in an appear-
ance, while monkeys and large squirrels are ' surprisingly
numerous. Troops of wanderoos abound all the way, and at
frequent intervals numbers of them leap from the branches of
trees on one side of the road to those on the other.

Another stage brings us to the lovely lake of Kanthalai.
Many a sportsman has felt that he would not mind spending
the balance of his life here. After several hours of travelling
through the dense forest, it is with a shock of delight that the
monotony is broken by the sudden appearance of a beautiful
lake stretching away for miles to dreamy ranges of distant
hills, whose beauties are reflected in its calm waters. Life and
light combine to greet us as we emerge from the dense jungle.

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622

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

KanthaUl

Ancient
system of
irrigation

Flashes of every tint appear as the gay birds are startled by
our approach. We stand enchanted by the scene. All is still
save the voices of the creatures that dwell on these beautiful
inland shores. Spotted deer are browsing; peacocks, airing
their gaudy plumage, strut o'er the plain ; the majestic elephant
is enjoying his evening bath in the shallows ; herds of buffaloes
leave the shade of the woods to slake their thirst; grim
crocodiles are basking on the shore or watching their prey ;
troops of chattering monkeys are skylarking in the trees,
while the stately cranes and pink flamingoes stalk the shal-
lows. Such are the scenes that surround the tank or lake
of Kanthalai.

And now let us, for a moment, go back a couple of thousand
years for the origin and purpose of this gigantic artificial
stonework embankment on which we stand. The history' of
Ceylon contains authentic records of a system of irrigation
which, for engineering ingenuity and the rapidity with which
gigantic works were executed, could not be surpassed by any
conceivable means at the present day. We know that such
works were constructed, because the evidence remains in the
imperishable barriers of solid masonry that we find stretched
across the valleys to secure the heavy rainfall of certain
seasons ; but so wonderful are they, and so intricate yet perfect
the system of conveying the precious water to the field, that
we cannot realise the conditions which placed such magnificent
works within the sphere of the possible.

The forest now spreads over a network of these ruined lakes
and tanks, tens of which are of giant proportions, while the
smaller ones number thousands. Embankments eight feet high
and three hundred feet wide were carried for many miles at a
stretch. The dam of one of these is eleven miles long, and is
faced with steps built of twelve-feet lengths of solid granite.
That on which we are standing was constructed by King Maha
Sen about a.d. 275. The same monarch is said to have made
no less than sixteen of the large tanks, including Minneria,
which, like Kanthalai, is about twenty miles in circumference.
When it is borne in mind that, in addition to the formation of
the necessary embankments and sluices in this wholesale
fashion, hundreds of canals for the distribution of the water
formed part of the scheme, the stupendous nature of such an
undertaking is manifest. Wonderful as are the remains of
ancient monuments, palaces, and temples in these now deserted
provinces, nothing is more impressive than the great works of
irrigation, or attracts one more to the study and consideration
of early Sinhalese history.

How unchanging are the meteorological conditions through-
out long ages of time is evidenced by these remains. The

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732. ON THE BANKS OF KANTHALAI.

733. A PRETTY BAY

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 625

northern provinces of Ceylon must have received their rainfall Kanthalai
thousands of years ago, as now, in deluge form during two or
three months of the year; and it was necessary to secure and
treasure a portion of it for use in the protracted periods of
drought. It is curious in such a small country that the rain
should descend with almost equal distribution throughout the
year in some provinces and unequal in others. In the north-
central part of Ceylon, through which we are now journeying,
one-sixth of the rain for the whole year has been known to
fall in a single day. The storms of this district have been storms
well described by Major Forbes, who, in writing of his journey
to Trincomali in 1833, says : '* Five miles beyond Dambool we
crossed the bed of the Meerisagona-oya, at a ford which for
nine months of the year is only a space covered with sand ;
but the banks of this stream, above and below, were about
eight feet in height, the perpendicular sides being supported
by matted roots of trees.

*' Although the Meerisagona-oya was now and for months
had been without a drop of water in its channel, I have known
it impassable even to horses for eight days together : deten-
tions on this road from the swelling of the streams usually
occur previous to the setting-in of the north-east monsoon in
November. The rains generally commence towards the end
of September with heavy showers; after a week of this un-
settled weather, rain falls in torrents for half the day, the
remainder being bright sunshine. Previous to the fall of these
quotidian deluges, the sky in the quarter from whence they
approach becomes gradually darkened upwards from the hori-
zon, and appears of an inky hue, so dense that the distant hills
look less solid than the advancing curtain of clouds. The
plains seem lost in dull shadows, and the mountains are lighted
with a lurid gleam of dusky red that escapes from the open
part of the heavens. Every second this clear space, with its
pale, cold blue sky, is visibly contracted by dark swollen masses
of vapour, which are gradually subduing the sickly lights that
linger on the highest pinnacles. At first, during these symp-
toms, there is an oppressive calm, under which everything in
nature seems to droop : the leaves hang listless on the boughs ;
the beasts are in the forest ; the birds seek shelter in the covert ;
numerous flocks of white cranes following each other in lines,
or forming themselves in angles, alone attract the eye as they
seek new ground and prepare for the approaching storm.
Before a breath of air is felt, tiny whirlwinds arc seen beneath
the bushes, twirling round a few light, withered leaves, or
trundling them along the footpath. These fairy hurricanes are
succeeded by a rushing sound among the trees overhead, ac-
companied by the rustling and falling of decayed leaves; then

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626

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

KanthaUi

The rest-
house

TrlncooMll

The harbour

a gentle and refreshing air suddenly gives place to cold breezes,
gusts, and squalls, 'until heavy drops of rain crowd into
descending sheets of water, transforming steep paths into
cataracts, and broad roads into beds of rivers. Before the
murky curtain that is closing over the sky flickers a cold,
misty veil, and a dull vapour rolls in advance along the ground ;
these appearances arise from the raindrops splashing on the
dusty ground, or jostling and splintering as they descend from
the teeming darkness. On a particular occasion, being sur-
prised by one of these avalanches of rain, I returned to my
house at Mdtal6, but, with my horse, had to swim across a
stream that I had passed only two hours before, when the
water was not three inches deep.*'

The storms being restricted to one season, we have no
difficulty in arranging to make our trips in certain fine weather.
But we are digressing at great length, and must now proceed
on our journey from the spot where we halted at the first
glimpse of Kanthalai.

The great causeway extends for upwards of a mile, and is
bordered with beautiful trees. It is faced with enormous
blocks of granite regularly laid, but covered with turf to the
water's edge. Near the Trincomali end a capacious rest-house
for the accommodation of large parties of sportsmen and
travellers stands on the brink of the lake. The fields, which
are irrigated from the lake, are unrivalled as snipe grounds.
The bags that sportsmen sometimes claim are so great that I
hesitate to pen the number lest I should tempt the incredulous
reader to offer criticism in terms more common than polite.

We have now only one more stage to Trincomali-^twenty-
six miles of the same undulated forest road.

There are some fxvt or six magnificent harbours in the
world, and Trincomali is one of them. Situated on the north-
east of the island, it faces the Bay of Bengal and overlooks the
whole eastern coast of India. The entrance, which faces
south-east, is guarded by two projecting headlands, approach-
ing to within about seven hundred yards of each other. When
it is borne in mind that- the monsoons blow from the north-east
and south-west the importance .of this feature is obvious. The
rock>- headlands have a beautiful effect upon the landscape,
which is made up of a placid expanse of water dotted with
wooded islets that seem to float on its surface, rich tropical
forest covering the acclivities that border its coasts, and a
distant background of lofty mountains.

The form of the harbour is irregular, and the numerous
indents of its coast line supply many a charming feature.
Some of the islands are romantic in appearance as well as
association, and notably amongst them Sober Island, once the

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736. BANYAN TREE, SHOWING THE TRUNK.

737. THE SAME TREE, SHOWING SOME OF THE
SUPPORTING STEMS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 629

favourite resort df the officers of the East Indies Squadron, THncomaii
who built a ward-room, billiard-room, and gun-room npo;i it.

Trincomali was once regarded as a very important naval ^^f ^ ^
station, and as such it was strongly fortified; but as a com- posUUm
mercial port it has not developed, for the simple reason that
the cinnamon trade, so attractive to the early colonists, could
only be carried on at Colombo; and later, when the English
gained possession of the interior, the country in the west was
found to be the more cultivated, while the north-east was
almost deserted by man and covered with dense forest; more-
over, the long droughts to which the northern provinces were
subject rendered their cultivation apparently hopeless. Sub-
sequent to this another circumstance greatly influenced the
development of Colombo as the commercial port : the Suez
Canal brought the shipping for the colonies in the direction of
Ceylon, and as a consequence the western harbour suddenly
assumed immense importance by reason of its convenience as
a junction and port of call. vSo Trincomali by accident of its
position has missed that service to commerce which, if it had
been on the south-west coast, would have been incalculable.
Our principal view of the harbour is given on page 7.

Amongst the beautiful trees to be found in Trincomali a a magniji-
grand specimen of the Ficus Indica stands pre-eminent. It is fj^''*'*^^'*
difficult for anyone who has not seen a banyan tree to realise
that all the stem's and branches visible in our tw-o little photo-
graphs are parts of one tree.* It will be seen that some of
these stems rival even the main trunk in size, notably the one
on the extreme left of our first picture. In our second picture
only a portion of the complete tree is visible, but enough is
given to show how the shoots have reached the ground and
grown into large supporting stems, enveloping the original
trunk and producing the appearance of a miniature forest.
The circumference of the tree, which thus appears as a whole
grove, extends to several hundred feet, and its overspreading
branches would easily shelter a thousand people.

There is a very picturesque carriage road winding along the
northern and eastern portions of the harbour, and many are
its pretty nooks and corners.

Our photograph on page 627 gives a very good idea of the
character of this pretty road, and we particularly notice here
how land-locked the harbour is. We are looking towards the
mouth, in the direction of the full-rigged ship which is dis-
charging coal at the wharf. On the left is the extensive hill
known as Fort Ostenburg, commanding the entrance of the
harbour, but now dismantled. Military barracks, now deserted,
are just visible amongst the trees.

* A full description of the Ficus Indica is given on pages 58 and 61.

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630

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Trincomail

The bay

Dutch Point

Saami Rock

To the north of the harbour there is a horse-shoe shaped
bay, guarded on one side by the rocky headland known as
Dutch Point, and on the other by Fort Frederick, which is a
peninsula with narrow isthmus, but presenting a wide and bold
front of precipitous rocks about a mile out to sea. The town
of Trincomali is at the bend of the horseshoe. It has a fine
*' Maidan '* of some three hundred acres to the sea front. This
forms the recreation ground of the residents. Facing the bay
are a few good residences, including the rest-house and a
magnificent residence, once the quarters of the officer in charge
of the naval stores.

On Dutch Point is the Residency, the official quarters of
the Assistant Government Agent, who acts as both civil and
judicial administrator. The grounds of this house are very
romantic, and stretch around the headland, where the little bays
and crevices afford many pretty pictures.

The headland is a place of great antiquarian interest, and
many graceful legends are interwoven with its history. It is
a mighty crag rising from deep water in a sheer precipice to
the height of four hundred feet. Such an unusual feature of
the landscape was certain to attract the reverence of the
imaginative Hindus, and although the Sinhalese may have
regarded this as a holy place for centuries before the time of
Buddha, when they themselves were Brahmans, and may have
built shrines there, it is certain that the Malabars who invaded
Ceylon in early times appropriated it, and built a stupendous
shrine to Siva, which, until it was demolished by the Portuguese
in 1622, was known as ** The Temple of a Thousand Columns,"
and was the resort of pilgrims from all parts of India. There
is now left only the bare site of the magnificent temple ; and as
the crowds of Hindus flock thither to worship at the Saami
Rock, which is all the ruthless cruelty of the Portuguese left
them, one cannot help feeling some pity for them in having
their most revered shrine demolished without the slightest
reason that could have appealed to them. What their feelings
must have been towards the Portuguese makes one shudder to
think. No wonder that the Portuguese proved useless con-
querors ! We know that the Tamil Hindus meted out similar
treatment to the Buddhist Sinhalese in olden times; but we
should have expected the methods of the Portuguese, professing
Christianity, to have been less brutal in the seventeenth century.
We shall see that the site of this sacrilege is still held in the
profoundest veneration.

For many years after the British took possession of the
Fort, the Hindus, who had been debarred from approaching
the sacred spot by the Portuguese and the Dutch, were allow^ed
the privilege of making a pilgrimage to it once a year, and,

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738. DUTCH POINT.

739. THE BAY FROM THE RESIDENCY.

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740. SAAMI ROCK.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

633

although the site increased in military importance, this favour Trincomali
of the authorities was extended, instead of withdrawn as it
would have been by any other nation. The processions take
place at sunset, and there is no interference with them.

Having taken up pur position on ihe only-jutting crag that The
gives us an unobstructed view of the Saami Rock from o(5ean saami^Ro/k
to summit, we await the arrival of the worshippers, v/ho appear
gradually, both men and women, each bearing- offerings of
fruit, milk, palm blossoms, grain, and flowers. They take up
positions whence they can gaze upon the ceremonies to be
performed by the officiating priest, • who, with several atten-
dants^ descends to-.the utmost' ledge, a giddy height, where
naught but the . fathomless, doean stretches beneath his feet.
Here he pours out libiatioris, chants a weird litany, and taking
each gift casts it into the mighty deep. He then kindles a fire,
which he thrice raises above his head in a brazen censer, while
all the worshippers raise their arms heavenward. The burnt
offerings are reduced -to ashes, which are then smeared upon
the foreheads of the worshippers, and the ceremony is over.
The . situation as seen in our photograph is strikingly im-
pressive, and amongst the numberless religious ceremonies
of the East none is more profoundly solemn. The pouring of
libations and the sacrifice of burnt offerings on a spot where
the handiwork of the Creator is visible in- its most wonderful
aspects on all sides, is worthy.^f a mdre- enlightened people,
and commands our sympathy. ' ' ' * ?'

We cannot leave the Saami %Rock without reference to an
event of pathetic interest, commemorated by the monument
which surmounts its loftiest crag. As will be observed 'in our
picture, it is a solitary pillar, ^probably one of the thousand
columns of the demolished temple, and on it is engraved :

Tot Gedaghtenis
Van Francina Van Reede
IuF° Van Mydregt Desen
A° . 1687 : 24 April •
Opgeregt • '

Tragedy of
Francina
Van Reede

Francina Van Reede was a Dutch maiden of hig;h birth,
the daughter of a gentleman holding a responsible position in
the Dutch service. She was betrothed to an officer in the
army, stationed at Trincomali, to whom she was desperately
attached; but he proved faithless, and embarked on a vessel
bound for Europe. The fair one watched the movements of
the ship from the Saami Rock. To get clear of the coast the
vessel had to tack and pass parallel to the precipice on which
the love-sick maiden stood. For a few moments she gazed

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634

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

Hot springs
of Kanya

Trincomaii distractedly towards her false lover,, when suddenly the swift
vessel turned from her. towards a foreign land/ and she plunged
.from, the 'dizzy height. .

■s^*^ There is a peculiar charm in the circumstance that between

this beautiful place, ^Trincomaii, and any other lies a stretch
of wild and unpeopled land, where almost every kind of wild
animal thjit - exists in . the island can be found. Elephants,
leopards, bears, boars, buffaloes, deer, monkeys, crocodiles,
are all, within a day's march, and many within an hour's ride.

The _ neighbourhood of Trincomaii presents yet another
feature which is within .our province to mention, and is note-
worthy in connection with the theory held by some that the
deep harbour is on the site of a submerged volcano. At
Kanya, near a range of wooded hills eight miles north of the
harbour, there are some hot wells, seven in number, differing
in degrees of temperature from ioo° to iio°. These springs
have naturally given rise to various legends amongst the
natives, who regard them with superstitious reverence, and
account for their origin in the following fable. To delay the
King Rawana, and thus prevent the success of one of his
undertakings, Vishnu appeared in the form of an old man,
^nd falsely informed the king that Kanya (the virgin-mother
of Rawana) had died. On hearing this, Rawana determined to
» remain and perform the usual solemnities for deceased relatives
.whenever he could find, water for the requisite ablutions.
Vishnu having ascertained his wishes, disappeared at the spot,
and caused the hot springs to burst forth. From the solemni-
ties then performed'jn honour of Kanya, the springs have ever
since retained her name.*

Cottiar It will be seen from our map that to the south of Trincomaii

harbour there is a very large bay almost as land-locked as the
harbour itself. In the days of sailing ships, and especially in
early times when Ceylon was the great emporium of the
Eastern world, Cottiar Bay, as this great neighbour of Trin-
comaii is called, was a place of immense importance, compared
with which Trincomaii itself was insignificant, the reason
doubtless being that it afforded sufficient depth of water for the
vessels of those days, while ingress and egress under sail were
much easier than through the narrower entrance of the adjoin-
ing harbour.

At the present day Cottiar interests the traveller as the
scene of the capture of Robert Knox, to whose virtues and
literary service to posterity we have referred on pages 381
and 382.

VVe sail across the lovely bay, and in a couple of hours
find ourselves anchored on the very spot where the good ship
♦ From an account given by Major Forbes, 78th Highlanders.

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742. AVENUE ON SOBER ISLAND.

743. SHORE ON SOBER ISLAND.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

637

Anne lost her ill-fated cfew two and a half centuries ago. We
are near the mouth of the Mahawelli-ganga, up which we^sail
for about half a mile. Here we proceed ashore, and our
interest is arrested by a strange monument of white stone
erected against the gnarled stem of a magnificent old tree.
We approach and read the inscription : —

Trlncomali

This is the White Man's. Tree

Under Which Robert Knox

WAS Captured

A.D. 1659.-

744. THE WHITE MAN'S TREE.

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745. PORTION OF ONE OF THE GALLERIES OF RAMESERAM

RAMESERAM.

Rameseram Ax the extreme north of the Gulf of Manaar is the very
narrow strait known as Paumben Passage. Here Ceylon is
almost joined to India by a curious line of rocks and islands.
It will be seen from our map that the mainland of the continent
sends forth a promontory which almost reaches the sacred
island of Rameseram. From this a ridge of rocks, known as

Adam's Bridge Adam's Bridge, extends to Manaar, an island of sand-drifts
cut off from the coast of Ceylon only by fordable shallows.
Whether Ceylon was ever actually joined to India either by
nature or artifice is a matter of conjecture ; but the possibility
of either is easy to demonstrate. The name Adam's Bridge is
insignificant, and is due to a legend of the Arabs, who were
traders on this coast in very early times. They believed that
Adam lived in Ceylon after his banishment from Paradise ; that
he journeyed thence to Mecca and brought Eve back with him.
It was natural that he should have gone to and fro by this
passage, as there were no ships in those days. So they called
it Adam's Bridge. The legends of the Brahmans are not quite

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

639

so simple. By them Rama is said to have employed the monkey RameMram
gods to form this footway in order that he might invade Ceylon
with an army. There were quarrels and jealousies about it,
sometimes assuming serious proportions, . as * when Nala
stretched out his left hand to receive the immense rocks brought
by Hanuman. This indignity so roused the anger of the latter
that he raised a mountain to hurl at Nala when. Rama inter-
posed and appeased him by explaining that, although gifts
might not be received with the left hand, it was the custom of
masons so to receive materials for building. . -.

We are not disinclined to accept, the theory .that Paumben Paumben
Passage was once blocked by an artificial causeway, over which ^^^^^
millions of pilgrims came to visit the sacred Rameseram. The
passage only fifty years ago was so shallow that no ships could
pass through, but was about that time deepened sufficiently for
vessels of ten to twelve feet draft.

Although Rameseram is not part of Ceylon, we find it easily hUans 0/ access
accessible, since the steamers of the Ceylon Steamship Com-
pany pass through the Paumben Passage weekly, and obligingly
anchor to allow passengers an opportunity of visiting the island.
We have said that it is a sacred island, and we shall now pro-
ceed to verify this statement by exploration.

If we except a long spit of land which runs out to Adam*s TfuUiand
Bridge, the extent of the -island is about seven miles by three.
Upon setting out from Paumben, a broad road, paved with
smooth slabs of granite and shaded by beautiful trees, stretches
eastward through the island, ending in the entrance of a re-
markable temple, one of the most ancient and revered in all
India. On either side, at frequent intervals throughout the
whole distance of seven miles, there are substantially built
ambalams or rest-houses for pilgrims, fine baths with granite
steps descending into them from all sides, and temples beauti-
fully built of hewn stone. Every tree as well as building is
dedicated to the uses of religion. Even the soil is so sacred
that no plough may break it ; and no animal wild or tame may
be killed upon it. The magnificence of this superb highway is,
however, in decay; but why it should be so we are unable to
ascertain. The paving-stones are displaced, and most of the
temples are in ruins, while the ambalams show signs of better
days, not long past. The condition of the whole indicates that
about a century ago all these were in beautiful order. At the
present day, however, the great temple of Rama appears to be
the only building upon which attention is lavished.

No idea of this structure can be gained from the exterior. The temple
the only part visible being the lofty pagoda which forms the
entrance. The rest of the temple is enclosed within high walls,
extending round an area of eight hundred by six hundred fefet.

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640

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

RfliiMseram The interior consists of a large number of galleries of grand
The temple extent and dimensions, some of them running through the
whole length of the temple, and others to right and left for
hundreds of feet. All of them are ornamented with row^s of
massive pillars carved with statues of gods and departed heroes.
Our photograph of one small portion of a gallery is fairly repre-
sentative of the whole, which extends for many thousands of
feet, and surrounds the sanctum sanctorum, an oblong rect-
angular space into- which the unbeliever may not penetrate.
No entreaties will avail to obtain admittance into this sanctified
place. The nautch girls who are dancing and chanting within
may come and perform to us outside, but we may not approach
the shrines.

We are astonished at the Hindu grandeur of the temple,
and we are naturally curious about the apparent neglect of the
large number of smaller temples on the island. This, we are
' told, is due to the falling off in the number of pilgrims, and
consequently in contributions, since the British prohibition of
human sacrifice. A century ago, when enormous cars, sur-
mounted by images of the gods, were dragged along the paved
ways by hundreds of frantic devotees, many in their frenzy
hurled themselves beneath the massive wheels. It is also
related to us that when the great car of Juggernaut was
periodically brought from Madura across the Paumben cause-
way the sacrifices were enormous, and the number of pilgrims
attracted at such times was a great source of income to the
temples. We should like to think that the decay which we
have observed was due to enlightenment and education rather
than British law and might ; but be that as it may, we are quite
gratified to see the temples in ruins if the circumstance indicates
the discontinuance of such barbarous customs in however small
degree.
Manaar Manaar is scarcely worth a visit. It represents a dreary

aspect in comparison with the rest of Ceylon, notwithstanding
that in earlier times it was regarded as a place of considerable
commercial importance from its proximity to India and the
yield of its pearl fisheries. It is now famous only for its baobab
trees (adansonia digitata), which must have been imported
many centuries ago from the coast of Africa, but by whom
and for what purpose is a mystery. The peculiarity of this
monstrous tree is in its shapeless massive stem, whose circum-
ference is equal to the height of the tree.

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740. MOUTH OF THE MODRAGAM RIVER AT MARICHCHUKKADOI.

THE PEARL FISHERY.

A ntiquity of the
pearl fishery

We have se€n that Ceylon is a place with a glorious past ;
its once magnificent cities are now but a mass of crumbled
and half-buried ruins ; its native dynasty has passed away for
ever ; one institution alone has descended to us unchanged by
the vicissitudes of three thousand years — the Pearl Fishery.
Few of the world's wonders can lay claim to greater antiquity,
and few afford more aspects of interest to the naturalist.

** La plus belle perle n'est done, en ddfinitive, que le brilliant
sarcophage d'un ver/' writes an eminent French scientist. But
it is not with the origin of the oriental pearl or the generosity
of the oyster in providing the parasitic worm with such an
exquisite sarcophagus that we shall concern ourselves here ;
our purpose being confined to a description of the fishery. A A grami lottery
Ceylon pearl fishery is the most picturesque game of chance in
the world. It exhibits the true element of the lottery engrafted
on a huge picnic which lasts for a month or more and is at-
tended by forty-five thousand people. Such is the fascination
of the game that difficulties of access and lack of accommoda-
tion are of no account. The scene i% the Gulf of Manaar, on
the north-west coast, and the base of operation is a small bay

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747. A FLEET OF PEARLING BOATS

748. A STREET SCENE IN MARICHCHUKKADDI.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

643

at the mouth of the Modragam River, which may be seen in Pearl Fishery

plate 746. The pearl oyster banks or ** paars,'* as they are The banks

locally termed, are a series of shallows with a hard bottom,

spread over a large area of the gulf extending seawards for

upwards of twenty miles, and stretching from Adam's Bridge

in a southward direction for fifty miles ; their depth varies from

three to ten fathoms, the shallower ones being, of course, those

nearest to the shore. So prolific are the oysters that on one

bank only, known as the Periya Paar, scientific experts in the

year 1902 estimated the number of the young oysters at a

hundred thousand millions, but so insecure was their lodging

that, upon inspection a few months later, it was found that all

had been swept away, either by ocean currents or the storms of

the monsoons. " *'

Marichchukkaddi, which, it must be conceded, is rather a Marichchuk-
mouthful for articulation, is a town which appears and dis- ^''^^^
appears with the fishery. At ordinary times it is devoid of
habitations, and not without picturesque qualities of its own.
On the one side it commands a diminutive bay, and on the
other a distinctly beautiful landscape, consisting of grassy
plains besprinkled with the blooms of wild flowers, with here
and there groups of tamarind trees. A background of forest
lends charm to the scene, and a series of cliffs on the right bank
of the river adds a feature which in Ceylon is rare. But in
fishery time the solitude and the beauty of Marichchukkaddi
give place to opposite scenes. The grassy plain is turned into
a sandy waste upon which forty thousand people are bustling
to and fro amidst their temporary habitations. The flowers
and the bees have given place to the dead oyster and the blow-
fly. But in the sudden transformation there are many com-
pensations for the havoc created in the landscape, which, after
all, would in the ordinary course lose its fairest complexion in
the dry season, which is always the chosen time for fisheries,
the absence of rain on shore coinciding with smooth seas.

An inspection of the pearl banks precedes the announce- Sampling the
ment of a fishery. About November there is a general survey ^^^"
to decide the question of to be or not to be' in the ensuing
March and April. Upon this examination an eSitimate is made
of the number of mature oysters likely to be available. A short
time before the proclamation another inspection takes place,
at which sample hauls are made and officially valued, in order
that the prospects of the coming event may be estimated. The
various bags of samples thus. collected are left under guard in
the ** kottu '* or enclosure erected for their reception for seven
days or so, by which time the maggots deposited by the blow-
flies have cleared away the putrified bodies of the fish and left
little more than the shells and the pearls behind; r'ill there is

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644

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

A mating
rapidity of events
fotlounng the
proclamation

Pearl Fishery enough of filth remaining to need a whole series of careful
washings, in addition to the removal of shells before the pearls
can be found. After all the light refuse that can be floated
away by much water and more patience has been got rid of,
the pearls are found contained in the remaining dirt, which is
dried and examined repeatedly until only the smallest of pearls
are likely to have escaped notice; but so difficult is it to find
them that, even at this stage, the refuse has a market value.

The word now goes forth that a pearl fishery will take place
on a given date. ,With lightning, rapidity the news spreads
throughout India, the .Per&ian Gulf, Burma, and Malaya.
Marichchukkaddi is on no beaten track ; no road leads thither,
and no landing facilities welcome the traveller by sea; yet
within a month of the proclajnation a town appears peopled by
its forty thousand inhabitants of a dozen nationalities, and
equipped with the machinery for orderly government and the
conduct of a daily market at which every pig is bought in a
poke amid conditions of great excitement and anxious anticipa-
tion. The streets are familiarly named, and to facilitate
business the town is* divided into various quarters for the
accommodation of officials, pearl merchants, traders, divers,
and so forth. Then there are boatmen's houses, police
quarters, banks, hospitals and medical stations, court houses,
rest-houses for European and other visitors, post and telegraph
offices. Pretentious bungalows are erected in anticipation of
a possible visit from the Governor of the Colony, as also for
the Government Agent, and, on the more recent occasions, for
the agent of the lessees, the Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers.

In small boat-loads of twenty to forty the motley throng
arrives from . the long series of coast towns that border the
Indian Ocean. The variety of craft is only equalled by that of
their passengers, for the various ports have their specialities
both in build and rig. Some two hundred boats that do the
port-to-port carrying . trade are for the time converted into
pearlers, and arrive manned by thousands of divers, amongst
whom are Tamils, Moors, and Arabs. Many passengers come
laden with cocoanut leaves with which to build the modest little
hut that will' be their shelter during the period of the fishery ;
others* come provided with bank-notes, to the extent of thou-
sands of pounds, and are prepared to purchase of the Govern-
ment a month's lease of some building in the merchants'
quarter ; for this town of cad j an huts has not been erected for
love, but for the rent which is obtained by competition. A
house ten feet square, consisting only of four walls and a roof
made of palm leaves and jungle sticks, without floor or furni-
ture, is a luxury that the pearl merchant is glad to get for a
month for £s^' The building of plaited palm leaves costs

A rrival of the
motley throng

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749. BUNGALOW OF SIR STANLEY BOIS AT THE PEARL
FISHERY OF 1907.

I^B

f «l

BEt5d*-''

Wl^

t^'%

750. NATIVES OBTAINING THEIR DAY'S SUPPLY OF DRINKING WATER.

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J| i^^^ fc 4

^^\ m.'**

7S1. THE HOMEWARD RACE OF THE PEARLING FLEET.

■ 1

/ ■ 1

/■ 1

11''

jL.

vi k '

752. DIVING FOR PEARLS.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON

647

nothing but the trouble of making. The rents of such shanties Pearl Fishery

form a considerable proportion of the revenue derived from the

fishery.

Near the town two huge water tanks are constructed, one
for the purposes of ablution (Plate 755) and the other for a
drinking supply. At the latter the early morning scene (Plate
750), where the inhabitants bring their chatties for the day's
needs, is most picturesque.

The fleet of some three hundred boats assembles and draws Theflect
up in hne upon the shore as seen in plate 747. The atmospheric
conditions prevailing in March and April are most favourable
to the enterprise. During the night a gentle breeze from the
land fills the sails and wafts the fleet to its allotted station.
While the diver is seeking for pearls, the increasing power of
the sun's rays causes the warmed atmosphere to rise, where-
upon the winds return and considerately bring back the fleet
at the most convenient hour of the afternoon.

The boats are as various as the divers, possessing some VarUd types
four or five distinct types : dhoneys, sailing lighters, luggers, ^f'^'^'^f^
and canoes with outriggers, in some cases having three masts.
Each has its peculiarities in shape, rig, and tackle, according
to the fashions in vogue at the Indian or Ceylon port to which
it belongs. The fleet extends in a long line, every vessel being
moored to the beach. At midnight a terrific report from the The start
signal gun, followed by the roll of tom-toms, awakens every
soul in the town, and ten thousand dark brown figures are at
once busy with tackle and sheet,, shouting and hoisting, each
one eager to be first upon the paar, as each is keen on being the
first to return and get into the market with his share of oysters.
A quiet interval in the town follows the sailing of the fleet.
The breeze is often light, and frequently when daylight dawns
the sails are yet in sight. The work of the diver is accom- The diver at
plished without much external aid. He descends feet foremost, "'^'^*
grasping a rope to which a stone is attached to expedite his
descent, remains under water from forty to ninety seconds,
during which time he fills his basket with oysters, then signals
to the manduck at the other end of the rope, who hauls him up
with his catch. Some of the divers from the Malabar coast
simply plunge head foremost in the ordinary fashion, and upon
arriving at the bottom place one foot in a loop rope near
the stone, by which means they can remain at work so long as
their supply of air remains. A pretty sight is the returning The return
fleet in the afternoon. At a signal by gunfire sails are set, and
the three hundred craft enter upon a race which is one of the
finest sporting events imaginable, and as exciting in its un-
certainty as the search for pearls that follows. The first crew
to arrive have the advantage of getting first into the market

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648

THE BOOK OF CEYLON

The koddu

Pearl Fishery with the divcrs' share of oysters, Which obtain high prices from
merchants who wish to obtain early samples of the catch.

The president of the fishery thoughtfully stations on the
beach, to receive the divers, a guard of honour composed of a
proportionate number of police, whose attire is limited to the
cap of authority worn upon their heads, an arrangement which
admits of their advance into the surf without damage to their
uniform. Their welcome to the returning fleet consists in
boarding each craft and proceeding without ceremony to search
for concealed pearls which the divers and manducks may have
extracted from gaping shells during the voyage. Pearls are
easy to conceal, and it is not to be supposed that the diver and
manduck are unpractised in the art of htd'fng slny that they
fortuitously discover. Sometimes the police have found little
bags of them tied to the anchor or attached to a sail ; but there
may be even more secret hiding-places. It is difficult to remove
the possibility of theft even by stationing a detective on each
boat; for bribery amongst Orientals is a fine art. No sooner
are the boats made fast upon the beach than the divers rush
ashore laden with the oysters in bags, and scramble over the
loose sand to the koddu, an extensive series of compartments
or sheds constructed of palm leaves and enclosed within a
palisade of jungle sticks. A separate compartment is assigned
to each boat*s crew. Here the divers parcel the oysters into
three heaps as near as possible alike in size, for they have no
means of knowing which heap will be allotted to them as their
share by the official. This allotment having been made, after
a further examination of their persons by the searchers, the
divers are allowed to remove their share. Outside are crowds
of speculators anxious to buy the oysters in small numbers, and
rapid bargaining takes place; the diver does not get far with
his property, but usually disposes of the whole lot in a very
short space of time; for he needs some hours of rest after his
strenuous exertions.

Within the koddu the business of counting the oysters for
The auction the daily auction proceeds apace, and at sunset they are put up
to the highest bidder by the thousand, the buyer taking as many
thousands as he pleases at the price of his bid. In the morning
the buyers remove their lots to their own enclosures, where the
unsavoury though exciting business of extracting the pearls
is carried on.

The animation of the town is immense. Oysters are being
opened all over the place, and the lucky finders of pearls are
rushing off to the quarters of the merchants, who sit all day
(as seen in plate 754) ready to buy or sell, grading their pur-
chases in little sieves, weighing them with delicate little scales,
with seeds for weights. Here and there are groups of

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753. A PEARL MERCHANT.

754. DEALERS IN PEARLS.

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755 THE BATHING TANK.

756. BAGS OF PEARL OYSTERS READY FOR THE AUCTION.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 651

** fakers " and pearl-cutters engaged in threading pearls by Pearl FUhery
means of the simplest of bow-drills. Many of the dealers are
capitalists whose transactions run into many thousands of
pounds ; others are humble traders who make their way to
Marichchukkaddi, attracted by the grand chance of the lottery
in which they may lose their all or make much of their Jittle>

After a period varying from three to six weeks the fishery
is brought to a close, the inhabitants of Marichchukkaddi dis-
perse, and the town itself dissolves even more rapidly than it
came into existence.

The pearl fishery of the year 1905 was the largest ever a record fishery
known. The divers engaged numbered about Hve thousand,
with an equal nujnbcr of m&nducks or attendants upon them.
The fleet of boats nunib^red three hundred. Eighty millions
of oysters were obtained, and sold for about ;£^2 50,000, two-
thirds of which sum was added to the revenue of the Colony,
and the remaining third, according to the usual custom, was
awarded to the divers. This was, however, an exceptionally
abundant harvest, as may be surmised from the fact that the
sole right of pearl fishing has now been leased by the Govern- Lease 0/ the
ment to the Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers at an annual fi^^^''y
rental of ;;^20,666, which with the rents of plots in *' Pearl
Town " ensures a total revenue from the fishery of ;^25,ooo —
a fair sum if based on the average of past years. The com-
pany, moreover, engages to spend ;;£^200,ooo upon the improve-
ment of the fishery during the period of the lease.

With this brief description of the pearl fishery I take leave
of the reader, who I trust will put my description to the test
of personal experience by setting out at once for the beautiful
island.

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USEFUL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS
TO CEYLON.

CURRENCY.

British sovereigns are legal tender at the rate of £i for 15 rupees.

The silver coins in use in Ceylon are Indian rupees and the decimal
coinage of Ceylon consising of 50 cents (half rupee), 25 cents (quarter
rupee), and 10 cents (one tenth of the rupee).

The bronze coinage consists of five-cent, one-cent, half-cent, and
quarter-cent pieces.

BOAT HIRE IN THE HARBOUR OF COLOMBO.

For Steam Launches, Boats and Canoes.

Per Head.
From landing jetty to any vessel, or vice versd, or
from one vessel to another within the Break-
water 25 cents

For the return journey 25 cents

[In each case between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., 40 cents.]

The above fares include one hour's detention for boats and canoes.

For every subsequent hour's detention 40 cents between 6 a.m. and
7 p.m!, and 150 cents oetween 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., per boat (not passenger).

Two children under ten count as an adult; children under two go free.

Special agreement must be made for boats or caroes required for special
service.

'>r Baggage

Chairs, hand-bags, o ips of rugs (with owner) Free

,, ,, (without owner) 5 cents each

Small packages (up to 33 in. by tq in. by 18 in.) 10 to 15 cents

Laige boxes or cp-^es ... ... ... ... ... 25 cents

Disputes should be referred to thf Jetty Sergeant, whilv; gross im-
position or incivility c^n be reported to the Master Attendant (Harbour
Master), whose office it in the Custom House, and who in all matters
connected with the wharf and the sh.^jping acts as Police Magistrate.

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654 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

GUIDES.

Licensed Guides wearing dark blue coats with green facings can be
engaged at the Guides' Shelter near the landing jetty. The fee is 50 cents
for the first hour and 25 cents for each additional hour.

. c.

50 •

• 3

50 •

50 .

.. 0

0 .

.. 0

RATES OF CARRIAGE HIRE IN COLOMBO.

ist Class 2nd Class
For carriages drawn by one horse : —

From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Any six consecutive hours between 6 a.m.

and 7 p.m

For half-an-hour

For one hour

For every subsequent hour or portion ... o 50 ... o 30

[The charges are for a whole carriage^ not for each passenger.]
Between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third more.

Beyond Municipal limits (outside the toll-bars) an agreement should
be made, otherwise the rate demanded is generally 75 cents per mile,
including return journey, but exclusive of tolls.

The usual fare for a carriage to Mount Lavinia and back or to Cotta
and back is Rs. 5, in addition to payme'nt of toll.

If extortionate fares are demanded, as they often are, the driver should
be asked to produce the fare table, which he is bound to carry ; though no
one is likely, if well served, to object to an advance, by way of a fourboire,
on the strictly legal fare.

Rates for Rickshas Extra

By Day By Night

Rs. c. Rs. c.

Not exceeding ten minutes o 10 ... o 5

Each half-hour o 25 ... o 5

Each hour o 50 ... o 10

For each subsequent half -hour o 10 ... o 5

Between 7.30 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third extra.

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THE BOOK OF CEYLON 655

THE COACH SERVICES.

The following list of coaches running between places where there is
no railway service is intended for general information to the traveller ;
but the times of departure should be verified locally, as they are subject
to change.

The West Coast
- Colombo and Negombo: leave C. 7 a.m. and 2 p.m., arrive N. 10.30
a.m. and 5.30 p.m. ; leave N. 7 a.m. and 3.45 p.m., arrive C. 10.30 a.m. and
7.15 p.m. P'are, Rs. 3.

Negombo and Chilaw: leave N. 6 a.m. and 11.30 a.m., arrive C. 11 a.m.
and 4 p.m. ; leave C. 5 a.m. and 11 a.m., arrive N. 10 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.
Fare, Rs. 5.

Chilaw and Puttalam: leave C. 4.10 p.m., arrive P. 9.30 p.m.; leave
P. 5 a.m., arrive C. 10.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 7.

The Planting Districts

Avisawella-Ratnafura and Rahwana: leave A. 11 a.m., R. 3 p.m.,
arrive Rak. 8.30 p.m. ; leave Rak. 5.20 a.m., R. 10.20 a.m., arrive A. 3.20
p.m. Fare, Rs. 17.50.

Polgahawela and Kegalla: leave P. 9.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m., arrive K.
11.15 ^-n^- ^^^ ^'^S p.m.; leave K. 6.45 a.m. and 1.45 p.m., arrive P.
8.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2.

Gamfola and Pussellawa: leave G. 3 p.m., arrive P. 5 p.m.; leave P.
8 a.m., arrive G. 10 a.m. Fare, Rs. 3.

Hatton and Norwood: leave H. 6 a.m. and 2.20 p.m., arrive N. 7.20
a.m. and 3.30 p.m. ; leave N. 9.35 a.m. and 6.30 p.m., arrive H. 10.40 a.m.
and 7.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2.50.

Norwood and Bagawantalawa : leave N. 7.25 a.m. and 3.40 p.m., arrive
B. 8.45 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; leave B. 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., arrive N. 9.30 a.m.
and 6.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 3.50.

Norwood and Maskeliya: leave N. 7.25 a.m. and 3.40 p.m., arrive M.
8.30 a.m. and 4.45 p.m. ; leave M. 8.30 a.m. and 5.15 p.m., arrive N. 9.30
a.m. and 6.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2.50.

Talawakele and Agrapaiana: leave T. 3 p.m., Lindula 4 p.m., arrive
A. 5.30 p.m. ; leave A. 7.30 a.m., L. 9 a.m., arrive T. 10 a.m. Fare, Rs. 5.

Bandarawela, Badulla, Passnra, and Lunugala: leave Band. 12 noon,
Bad. 3.30 p.m., P. 5.30 p.m., arrive L. 8.30 p.m. ; leave L. 7 a.m., P. 9.45
a.m., Bad. i p.m., arrive Band. 4.15 p.m.

The Southern Province

Matara and Tangalla: leave M. 10.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m., arrive T.
2.30 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. ; leave T. 6 a.m. and 11.30 a.m., arrive M. 10 a.m.
and 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 5.

Tangalla and Hambantota: leave T. 3 p.m., arrive H. 8 p.m. ; leave H.
5.30 a.m., arrive T. 10.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 7.50.

To the East Coast

Mdtali and Dambulla: leave M. 10 a.m., arrive D. 2.40 p.m. ; leave D.
10.30 a.m., arrive M. 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 6.

Dambulla and Trincomalee : leave D. 2.50 p.m., arrive T. 9 a.m. ; leave
T. 3 p.m., arrive D. 9.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 15.

Lunugala and Batticaloa: leave L. 5 a.m., arrive B. 6 p.m.; leave B.
5.30 a.m., arrive L. 7.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 25.

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656 THE BOOK OF CEYLON

CONSULS IN COLOMBO.
America, United States of.— W. Morey, Consul, and E. L. Morey, Vice-

and Deputy-Consul, 2, Queen Street.
Alstro-Hungary. — E. Enchelmayer, Consul, 3, Prince Street.
Belgium. — A. Redemann, Consul, Victoria Buildings, York Street.
Denmark. — A. J. Sawer, Consul, 2, Queen Street.
France. — E. Labussiere, K.L.H., Consular Agent, Chamber of Commerce

Buildings.
German Empire. — Ph. Freudenberg, Consul, 29, Chatham Street.
ITAI.Y. — E. Enchelmayer, Consul, 3, Prince Street.
Japan. — C. E. H. Symons, Consul, 4, Prince Street.
Netherlands. — A. Schulze, Consul, 25, Upper Chatham Street.
Norway. — Sir Stanley Bois, Acting Consul, 11, Queen Street.
Persia. — M. I. Mohamed Alie, Vice-Consul, Dam Street.
Portugal. — C. S. V. Morrison, Acting Consul, 12, Queen Street.
Russia. — E. Labussiere, K.L.H. (French Consular Agent), Acting Vice-

Consul, Chamber of Commerce Buildings.
SiAM. — T. S. Clark, Acting Consul, 14, Baillie Street.
Spain. — C. S. V. Morrison, Acting Consul, 12, Queen Street.
Sweden. — Sir Stanley Bois, Acting Consul, 11, Queen Street,
Turkey. — Mohd. Macan Markar fiffendi, Consul, 70, Old Moor Street.

POPULATION.

The population of Ceylon as enumerated on the night of March ist,
iQoi, including the immigrant estate population, the military (3,360), the
shipping (4,104), and Boer prisoners of war (4,913), was 3,576,990; the
different races being as follows : —

Europeans 9,583 Tamils 95^,237

Burghers and Eurasians 23,312 ^ Moors 224,719

Sinhalese Low-country 1,461,233 Malays 1 1^207

Sinhalese Kandyan ... 873,584 Veddahs (aborigines) ... I3i2i5

Others 7,9°^

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INDEX

Abhayagiriya Dagaba, 565-567
Aborigines of Ceylon, 524
Adam's Bridge, 638

Peak, 452-461

Hotel, 449

Administration of Ceylon, 25

rural districts, 214, 397

Agra ova, 463

Agrapatana, 462

Ahangama, 166

Alawwa, 226

Allagalla, 230-233

Aludeniya, 345

Alutgama, 150

Alutnuwara, 238, 413

Alutoya, 621

Aluwihar6, 432, 435

Ambagamuwa, 448

Ambalam, near Teldeniya, 336

Ambalangoda, 155, 157

Ambanpola, 522

Ambastala Dagaba, 532

Ambawela, 482

Ambepussaj 226

Amherstia, 263

Angulana, 118

Anuradhapura, 522-579

Arachchis, 214

Architecture, Kandyan, 325-377

Areca palms, 186, 187

Arrack, 141, 142

Arts and crafts. Native, 315

Aryans, 13, 529

Asgiriya, 335, 338, 370, 378

Asoka, 531
Astrologers, 51
Astrology, 51
Attangala Wihare, 217
Attractions of Ceylon, 26
Audience Hall, 312, 326
Avisawella, 190

Badulla, 489-493
Baillie Street, 45
Balpitiya, 154
Bambalapitiya, 112, 113
Bambaragala, 412, 413
Bandaranaike, Sir S., 214
Bandarawela, 486
Bank of Madras, 45
Banyan tree, 58, 60
Barnes Place, 65
liarnsley. Corporal, 295
Barracks, Colombo, 52, 55
Basawak-Kulam, 570
Bazaars, 50, 51, 52
Bentota, 109, 150-153, 363
Berendi Kovil, 190, 191
Beruwala, 148, 149
Betel, 86-89
Bible Rock, 234
Birds of Colombo, 66, 69-77
Bo-tree, Ancient, 542-544
Boat hire in harbour of Colombo,
653

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6:^8

INDEX

Bomure, 413, 417
Borella, 47

Brazen Palace, 548-550
Breakwater spray, 10, 32
British administration, 25

conquest, 22

policy, 25

Brookside, 512
Buddhism, 529, 531
Bungalows of Colombo, 65, 67,

Coir matting, Manufacture of, go,
I 91

Colombo, The approach to, 30

, The -Fort, 37

Commercial Company, Colombo, 58

Consuls in Colombo, 656

Cook & Son, Thos., 45

Cotta, 185

Cottiar, 634

Cotton, 113, 254, 255

Cricket, 52, 55

Crow Island, 82

Currency, 653

Customs, 34

duty, 37, 653

Cacao, 264, 409

Camel Rock, 234

Camphor trees, 276

Canoes, Sinhalese, 34, 35, 83

Carriage hire, 654

Cathedral of Saint Thomas, 81

Santa Lucia, 81

Ceylon, First glimpse of, 29
Chamber of Commerce, 45, 48
Chapman, Bishop, 8i
Chatham Street, 40, 41, 43, 91
Chavakachcheri, 605
Chekku, 223
Chunakam, 617
Chunam, 89
Cinnamon culture, 126-131

Gardens, Colombo, 47, 65

Citronella, 174

Climate, 9, 10, 13

Coach routes and fares, 655

Coco-de-mer, 268-269

Cocoanut cultivation, 218

, desiccated, 222

estate, 219

fibre, 221

grove, 224

husking, 225

oil mills, 222

planting, 219-222

, prolific trees, 224

seedlings, 220

, Uses of the, 218

Dalada, Anuradhapura, 577

, Kandy, 300

, Polonnaruwa, 592

Dambula, 434-437

Davie, 292

Dawson, 237

Dawulugala, 242

Degaldoruwa, 353, 364, 378

Dehiowita, 194

Dehiwala, 114, 116, 117

Dekanda Valley, 230, 233
I Demons, 241, 242
I Devil dancers, 388
I Devon Falls, 461, 481
1 Dewa Nilame, 382
I Dewale, Definition of, 237

Dhobies, 56

Dickoya Bazaar, 453

Church, 453

Estate, 453

Dimbula, 462, 480, 481
Diyatalawa, 486
Dodanduwa, 157

Dodanwala, 245, 346, 350, 358, 381
Dolosbage, 447
Domestic economy, 65

Digiti

zed by Google

INDEX

659

Dondra Fair, 177

Head, 174

Double cocoanut, 268, 269
D'Oyly, Sir John, 422
Dravidians, 14
Drives in Colombo, 52
Dumbara, 304, 406-407
Dutch Church at Jaffna, 23

Embassy to Kandy, 20

Fort at Batticaloa, 23

General de Weert's death, 19

Murder of a Dutch com-
mander, 19

Naval Engagement with the

Portuguese, 16

period in Ceylon, 17-22

, Taking of Galle by the, 20

Dutthagamini, 547-549

Ebony tree, 212

Edinburgh Crescent, 60

Education in rural districts, 402

Ehelapola, 296

Elara, 547

li^lephant Pass, 601-602

Elephants at Nugawela, 387

at play, 383

Embekke, 245, 328, 329, 334, 335,

348, 380
Jlmbilmigama, 242, 245
Ettapola, 428
Etwehera Dagaba, 526

Ficus Indica, 58
Fishing industry, 114

, Sport of, 114

Flora, zo

Flower Road, 71, 77

Flying foxes, 276, 277

Fort, Colombo, Plan of the, 39

, Railway station, 48, no,

III
, Streets of the, 38

Gadaladeniya, 242, 245, 338, 347,

381
Galagedera, 403
Galboda, 448, 449
Galgamuwa, 522
Galge, 577
Galle, 158-166
Galle Face, 47, 52, 53

Hotel, 54, 55

Galmaloya, 413

Galpata Wihdre, 153

Galwihare, 592

Gampola, 444

Ganewatte, 521

Garden Club, The Colombo, 60, 61

Gedige Wihare, 338, 344, 345

Gems, 137

General, The quarters of the, 56, 58

Geographical features of Ceylon, 2

Giant*s Tank, 12

Ginigathena Pass, 198

Gintota, 158

Golf Links, Colombo, 72, 75, 76, 77

Gonawatte, 406

Government Agents, 398

Offices, 39

Gram vendor, 251
Grand Pass, 46, 47, 48
Green Path, 60, 77, 79
Gregory Road, 320
Gregory's Radient, 64, 65, 71
Guides, 45, 654
Guildford Crescent, 65

Habarane, 619-621
Hackeries, 122, 187

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

66o

INDEX

Hakgalla, 508-511
Hanguranketa, 366
Hantanne, 304
Hanwella, 182, 189
Haputale district, 486

, Drifting mists at, 8

Harbour of Colombo, Construction
of, 30, 31

, Entering the, 30

, Scenes within the,

28,33
Ilataraliyadda, 233, 363, 404, 407
Hatton, 451
Havelock Town, 113
Headmen, 243
Henaratgoda, 206-213
Hikkaduwa, 157
Hingula Oya, 238
History, 13

Hog's Back Tunnel, 448
Homagama, 186
Horana, 137
Horton Place, 47, 65, 71
Horton Plains, 482
Hospital, The Colombo, 47, 71, 77

, The Eye, 62, 6^

, The Lady Havelock, 49, 51

Hotel, Bristol, 45

, Carlton House, 495

, Galle Face, 54

, Grand, 405

, Grand Oriental, 36, 37

, Mount Lavinia, 11 7-1 19

, New Keena, 495

, St. Andrews, 495

Housekeeping in Colombo, 65
Iluduhumpola, 349
Huluganga, 410-413
Hunasgeria, 300
Hunupitiya, 205
Hyde Park Corner, 47

Immigration of coolies, 205
Induruwa, 4a
Isurumuniya, 544-547

Jaffna, 605-614
Jak trees, 186, 188
Jewellers, 42

Jetawanarama, 569 574, 5S8
Jinrickshaw hire, 654

Kachcheri, Kandy, 312
Kadugannawa, Dewales at, 238

, Road scenes at, 236-247

Kaduwela, 181
Kaluganga, 134, 136, 137
Kalutara, 134-140
Kamburugamuwa, 170
Kandapola, 511 -512
Kandy, 282-323

, Arrival of the British at, 287

, Climate of, 30

, Dutch period, 287

, Formation of, 283

, History of, 283-284

, Hotels of, 299

Lake, 286, 302, 303

, Map of, 297

, Population and area, 300

, Streets of, 323

Kandyan architecture, 325-377

dwellings, 426

Kangesanturai, 617
Kanthalai, 622, 626
Kanya, hot springs, 634
Karuwanella, 194
Kataragama Dewale, 329
Katugastota, 426
Katukurunda, 146
Kayman's Gate, 46, 47
Keendeniya, 226
Kegalle, 198, 227-229
Kekuna press, 426

tree, 425

Kelani Valley, 178-199
Kelaniya, 201

barges, 204

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

INDEX

66i

Kelaniya, Making tiles at, 203

J^iver, 48, 81, 195, 196, 198

, Scene on the river, 203

Temple, 202

King, Henry S. Sc Co., 41
Knox, Robert, 381, 637
Kodikamam, 602
Kola nut trees, 264
KoUupitiya, 47, 77, no
Koralas, 401
Kosgoda, 154, 155
Kotagala, 461
Kundesalle, 296, 369
Kurumba, 225
Kurunegala, 516-518
Kushta Rajah, 169

Labour, Supply of, 205

Labugama, 189

Lace making, 184

Lake of Colombo, 47, 58, 59

Lankatilake, 242, 337-34' » 3/8

Lapidary, The, 88, 90

Lewella Ferry, 379

Lewis, The Hon. J. P., 325

Liana grove, 268

Lovers* Leap, 504

Lunawa, 120, 121

Madama, 330, 331, 336
Madawachchi, 597
Madugoda, 416, 425
Magadha, 530
Maggona, 149
Maha Dewale, Kandy, 347
Mahaiyawa, 426
Mahamega, 535
Maha-oya, 226

I Maha Sen, 569

I Seya, 526

I Mahara, 206

I Mahaweliganga, 249, 300, 379, 409,

I 426

I Mahinda, 531, 535

, Maho, 521

I Main Street, 46, 47

I Maladeniya, 226

I Malwana, 181

I Malwatte, 356, 378

I Manaar, 640

' Mankulam, 601

, Map of Anuradhapura, 523

I Colombo, facing f. i

I l^'ort of Colombo, 39

I Kandy, 297

I Peradeniya Gardens, 252

I the railways, facing p.

109

Maradana, 45, 49

I Junction, 51, 201

I Marichchukaddi, 641-651
I Matale, 429-435
I Matara, 170

I Main Fort, 173

I , Star Fort at, 173

I Medagoda, 193

I Medamahanuwara, 413, 414, 417
I Memorial of Sir H. Ward, 318, 319
j Mihintale, 526-535

Milagriya, 115

M'ineria, 581

Mirigama, 218-225

Modara, 81

Mohandirams, 217

Monsoons, 9

Moon Plains, 504

Moonstones, Architectural, 574

Moormen, 47

Moratuwa, 1 21-127

furniture industry, 125

Lagoon, 125-127

Mount Lavinia, 116-119
Mudaliyars, 214
Mudbidri, Temples of, 326
Museum, Colombo, 47, 60, 61

of Art at Kandy, 312

Mutwall, 47, 78, 81, 82

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

662

INDEX

Naga Pokuna, 532
Nalande, 377, 430
Nambapane, 137
Namunakula, 489
Nanuoya, 481, 493
Nata Dewdle, Kandy, 345
National Bank of India, 44, 45
Navatkuli, 605
Nawalapitiya, 448
Nilganga, 172, 173
Xiyangampaya Wihare, 444
Northern Line itinerary, 515-617
Nugawela Girls' School, 403
Nugegoda, 185
Nutmegs, 270
Nuwara Eliya, 3, 495

, amusements, 507

climate, 499

Golf Club, 497, 507

, Naseby Hill, 503

, Season of, 500

Ohiya, 484, 485
Orchids, 275
Oriental Library, 308

P. & O. Steam Navigation Com-
pany, 45

Paddy cultivation, 382-397

fields at Urugala, 384

Padukka, 186

Paiya(,ala, 146-148

Palace, The Old, Kandy, 316, ^61,
366

Paliyagoda, 201

Pallai, 602

Palmyra cultivation, 275, 606

Pandu orua, 540-541

I Panedure, 132, 133
I Pannapitiya, 185

Pansala, Definition of, 237
' Papaw, 264

Parakrama the Great, 582-587

Paranagantota, 294

Paranthan, 601

Park Street, Colombo, 58

Passenger, Advice to the, 34

Pattipola, 482

Pattirippuwa, 307, 365, 367

Pavilion, The King's, 316

Peacock Hill, 446
I Pearl fishery, 641, 651
I Pepper grove, 430
I Peradeniya, 249-281

I Botanic Gardens, 249-281

I Junction, 249, 444

I , map of Gardens, 252

I railway bridge, 248

rest-house, 253

road from Kandy, 251

, wayside scenes, 251

Perahera, 311
Pettah, 78, 80, 83, 85, 109
Pidurutallagalla, 4, 500
Pilima, Adigar, 288, 292
Pokunas, 562, 564
Polgahawela, 229
Polonnaruwa, 578-594
Polwatte, 47, 78, 79
Portuguese period, 14, 17, 21
Post Office, The General, 38, 39
Potuhera, 515
Poya-g6, 237, 370
Prince of Wales' College, 121
Prince Street, Colombo, 45
Prince's Club, 64, 65
Public Works, 45, 48
Pussellawa, 447
Puwakpitiya, 189

Queen Street, Colombo, 24, 39, 41
'^"p^n's House, Colombo, 38, 39

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

INDEX

663

Racecourse, Colombo, 76, 77
Ragalla, 512
Ragama, 205

Railway regulations, ammunition,
106

, animals, 106

, bicycles, 106

, break of journey, 105

, children, 105

, horses and vehicles, 106

, invalids' accommoda-
tion, lOI

— , luggage, 98, loi

, petrol, 106

, special terms for par-
ties, 105

, special trains, 102

, telegrams, 105

, tickets, 102

Railways, The, 93

, Coast Line, 94, 109

, Kelani Valley Line, 97

, Main Line, 94, 201

, Mdtal6 Line, 94

, Northern Line, 94

, Udapussellawa Line, 97

, clerks' oflSce, 99

, list of stations, 107, 108

, refreshment cars, 96, 97

, rolling stock, 92, 97

, saloon car, 104

, sleeping cars, 95, 101

, workshops, 96-104

Rambodde, 447, 504

Rambukkana, 230

Rameseram, 638640

Ratemahatmayas, 398

Relapalama, 396, 397

Reservoir at Kandy, 285, 305, 320

R icefields, 233

Roads, 299

Rodiyas, 244-246

Rosmead Place, 65

Royal palms, 276

Rozelle, 451

Ruanweli Dagaba, 550-561

Ruanwella, 194, 195

Rubber, 209-213

St. Clair Falls, 463
St. Joseph's College, 48, 56, 57
St. Thomas' College, 81
Saami Rock, 630-633
Sardiel, 234
Sat-mahal-prasada, 591
Satinwood bridge, 248, 249

trees, 270

Scouts' Hill, 234
Screw pine, 264, 265
Sigiri, 438-443
Silversmiths, 253, 315
Sitawaka, 190, 191
Slave Island, 56, 57, no, in
Snipe shooting, 226, 626
Sunset at Colombo, 8
Survey Department, 48
Syston, 429

Talawa, 522

Talawakele, 461, 462

Talipot palms, 229, 258, 259, 260,

261
Talpe, 166

Tangalla, 174, 176, 177
Tarshish, 161
Tea planting, 465-478

, Shipment of, 37

Technical school, 49, 51

Teldeniya, 406-410

Temple of the Tooth, 307, 333

Thunbergia, 263

Thuparama at Anuradhapura, 538-

539

Polonnaruwa, 588-591

Tiles, Manufacture of, 201
Times of Ceylon, 47
Tissa, 531
Tobacco, 606-611
Toddy, 141, 142
Toluwila, 578
Tom-toms, 387
Tooth of Buddha, 307

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

664

INDEX

Tortoiseshell comb making, 85
Tramways, Colombo, 47, 48
Trincomali, 617-637

, view of harbour, 7

Tumpane, 405

Udapussellawa, 512-514
Udugalpitiya, 245
Udupitiyagedara, 418
Ukuwela, 428, 429
Ulapane, 447
Union Place, 47, 56-58
United Club, 507
Urugala, 413, 419, 425
Uva, 482-493
, Downs of, 3

.Vauxhall Koad, 47, 56, 58
\ rivuniya, ^«j7-6oi
Veyangoda, 213, 215
Victoria Arcade, 44, 45
Bridge, 48

Esplanade, 319

Park, 60, 61, 62, 68

Voyage to Ceylon, 29

Wace Park, 320, 321
Wadduwa, 134
VVaga, 189

Wihala Bandara Deviyo, 238
Walagambahu, 217
Wall Memorial Fountain, 60
Wanni, 600
Watagoda, 481
Watawala, 451
Wattegama, 429
Welagama, 363, 367
Weligama, 166
Wellawa, 521 .
Wellawatta, iii, 114, 115
Wibhisana, 205
Wickrama, King, 296, 418
Wihare, Definition of, 237
Window frames, 376-377
Wolfendahl, 78
World's End, 485

I Yatala Tissa, 205

I Vatiantota, 198

I York Street, 42, 44, 49

Printed by Cassell & Companv, Limited, La Bells Sauvacr, London, E.C.

Digitized by VjOOQ IC

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Full text of "The book of Ceylon : being a guide to its railway system and an account of its varied attractions for the vistor and tourist"

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