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HANDBOOKS OF
PRACTICAL GARDENING
r
RARER
VEGETABLES
wmm
BY
GEORGE WYTEES,YMLH,
&HARE5f ROBERTS.
\
HANDBOOKS OF PRACTICAL GARDENING
EDITED BY HARRY ROBERTS
THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
THE BOOK OF
RARER VEGETABLES
if
HEAD GARDENER TO THE DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND
GEORGE WYTHES, V.M.H.
if
LDENER TO THE DUKE OF NORTHU
AND
HARRY ROBERTS
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK : JOHN LANE COMPANY. MCMVI
Turnbull &> Spears, Printers, Edinburgh
INTRODUCTORY
THE vegetables, the culture and cooking of which are
discussed in this volume are not all "rare" in the
collector's sense of the word. Rather are they for the
most part vegetables which we in this country under-
value and under-use for the simple reason that we are
ignorant of the art of raising and preparing them. A
few vegetables are dealt with in this volume for no
better reason than that they have not been dealt with in
any other volumes of the present series of handbooks
which series, it is hoped, will, as a whole, form a fairly
complete library of practical gardening. For the cultural
instructions in the present volume, Mr Wythes is alone
responsible.
The majority of the better known vegetables have
been discussed in Mr Wythes' " Book of Vegetables,"
whilst Asparagus, Seakale, Salsify, Scorzonera, and
Celery were treated of in our first volume.
I take this opportunity of expressing my thanks to
those very eminent seedsmen and horticulturists, Messieurs
Vilmorin, Andrieux et Cie. of Paris, for the loan of
numerous blocks used to illustrate this volume. I may
add that if readers of this book find any difficulty in
purchasing in this country the seeds of the lesser grown
vegetables, Messrs Vilmorin will generally be able to
solve their difficulty.
The photographs here reproduced are by Mr Charles
Thonger.
HARRY ROBERTS.
vii
253066
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTORY . -. . * , . .. vii
THE COOKERY OF VEGETABLES . . . . . 3
ARTICHOKE, GLOBE . . . . . . 5
ARTICHOKE, CHINESE . . . . . . .12
CAPSICUM '. . . . , , . 15
CARDOON . . . . , , , . 18
CELERIAC . . , . . . . . 24
CHERVIL ._ . , . * . .27
CHICK-PEA . . . . '. . .- 29
CHICORY . . . . . . 30
CHOU DE BURGHLEY ... . . . 32
Coco . . . , . . . . 33
COUVE TRONCHUDA ' \ '- . . , . . 34
DANDELION . . . . 35
EGG PLANT . . . . . . . 37
EVENING PRIMROSE . , . . . . 43
FENNEF. . . . . . . . 45
GOOD KING HENRY . . . . .47
HOP . . 49
HORSE RADISH . . . . . . . 50
LENTILS . . ... ; . . . 53
MAIZE . . . . ~ . . . r6
MOUNTAIN SPINACH . . . . 59
NASTURTIUM . .' . ~ . . . 61
NETTLE . . . . . . , . . 64
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH . . . . .65
ONIONS, SOME . . . , . ." .. 67
x CONTENTS
PAGE
OXALIS CRENATA . . . . . .71
HAMBURG PARSLEY ...... 75
PATIENCE ....... 77
POTATO, CONGO ...... 79
POTATO, FIR APPLE .... .80
POTATO, SWEET . . . . . . .81
QUINOA . ... 83
RAMPION .... . . . . .85
RHUBARB ... . . . . . 87
ROCAMBOLE ... . . . . ,90
SCOLYMUS '..._ . . . .. . . 9!
SCURVY GRASS . .. . :. ' . t . . 93
SKIRRET . . , . . . .. ... . 95
SORREL . ' .. 4 . . ' . .. . yy
SOY BEANS ... . . . . 102
SWEET CICELY . . ^. _ . . . . 103
TUBEROUS GLYCINE ,. .. . . .. -, ' . 104
YAM .. . -. ' . -. . '' . . . 105
INDEX
109
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
CORN COBS , . , . % > * Frontispiece
LARGE GREEN PARIS ARTICHOKE . .. , % 5
GLOBE ARTICHOKES . . . .'. To face page 6
CHINESE ARTICHOKE . . . . . . 13
SPANISH MAMMOTH CAPSICUMS . . ' . . 15
CAPSICUMS . . '. ... To face page 1 6
PRICKLY TOURS CARDOON .... . . 19
CELERIAC *. . . . . . 25
BROAD-LEAVED CHICORY . . . . .30
CHICORY ROOTS . -S . . . To face page 30
BRAGANZA, PORTUGAL, OR SEA-KALE CABBAGE ... 34
THICK-LEAVED, OR CABBAGING, DANDELION . . . 35
LONG PURPLE EGG PLANT . . . . .38
AUBERGINE, OR EGG PLANT . .. . To face page 40
EVENING PRIMROSE . , . . . . 43
FINOCHIO, OR FLORENCE FENNEL , . . . 45
HORSE RAJISH . . . , , . .51
LARGE YELLOW LENTIL . .' . . ... 54
MAIZE . . . 7"^ * . . >S1
TUBEROUS- ROOTED NASTURTIUM . . . . .62
CHINA-GRASS SILVERY NETTLE . . . . 64
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH . . . . . .65
TUBERS OF OKA-PLANT, OXALIS CRENATA . . . jz
EARLY HAMBURG PARSLEY v . . . . . j$
HERB PATIENCE, OR PATIENCE DOCK . . . 11
POTATO VITELOTTE . . . . . . j<)
xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACE
" ROSE DE MAIAYA " SWEET POTATO . . . .81
SWEET POTATOES . , . . . To face page 82
RAMPION . . . . . . . 85
RHUBARB STALKS . . . . . . 88
GOLDEN THISTLE . . . . , . . . 91
SCURVY GRASS . . . . . . 93
SKIRRET . -95
COMMON BROAD-LEAVED FRENCH SORREL . . . 98
ETAMPES YELLOW SOY BE^N . . . , . icz
CHINESE YAM . . . . . - . 106
YAMS ...... To face page 106
THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
THE COOKERY OF VEGETABLES
VEGETABLES, at any rate so far as private houses are
concerned, are rarely cooked even tolerably in this
country. Yet a very little knowledge and skill, and
merely reasonable care, are all that is required in order
to achieve success. The following few general instruc-
tions may be helpful to the novice. All vegetables should
be carefully cleaned, though unnecessary washing should
be avoided. Potatoes and earthy roots should be well
scrubbed and rinsed in cold water before being peeled.
All dead leaves, or discoloured parts, should be removed
from vegetables before being cooked. Cabbages and
other vegetables likely to contain slugs or other creatures
should be soaked for some time in cold water containing
a tablespoonful of vinegar to the quart. Vegetables
should not be bruised or squeezed before being cooked,
or their qualities will largely be lost. The sooner
vegetables are cooked after being removed from the
garden, the finer will be their flavour and texture.
With the exception of old potatoes and dried vegetables,
such as lentils, all vegetables should be placed in boiling
water containing a tablespoonful of salt to the gallon.
Green vegetables should be boiled in abundance of
water, with the lid of the pan off, whereas roots should
be boiled with the lid on. All vegetables should be
drained directly they are cooked.
The recipes which follow are merely a selected few,
and are in no sense meant to be complete. Those
interested should consult also " The Book of Asparagus "
and "The Book of Vegetables" in the present series';
3
4 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
Mrs Roundell's "Practical Cookery Book"; Wyvern's
"Vegetarian and Simple Diet"; Janet Ross' "Leaves
from our Tuscan Kitchen " ; Mrs Waters' " The Cook's
Decameron"; Mrs de Sale's "Dressed Vegetables a la
Mode": "Vegetables" in the Queen Cookery Book
Series ; and Miss Florence Jack's " Vegetables."
THE
BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
GLOBE ARTICHOKE
THE Globe Artichoke (Cynara Scolymus) is closely allied
to the Cardoon, but in the latter the stalk, when
LARGE GREEN PARIS ARTICHOKK
(One-third natural size)
blanched, is the edible portion, whereas the former is
grown for its immature flower heads, of which the fleshy
part at the base is the portion used. It is by no means
6 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
a popular vegetable, and in some parts of the country the
plant winters badly. In my opinion damp is a greater
evil than frost, as in the northern part of the country, on
the Scottish border, we rarely lost a plant in winter,
whereas here in the south plants die in a wholesale
manner, new plantations being needed annually. The
plant is a hardy perennial, a native of the southern parts
of Europe ; and there are not many varieties in this
country, though in France, where this vegetable is a
greater favourite, there are at least half a dozen named
kinds. The large Purple and the Green are the best
known, and the round-headed types are much the best,
those with prickly pointed scales having less substance
and being less valuable though the growths are doubt-
less tender. The plant is easily raised from seed j but
no dependence can be placed upon plants thus raised, as
though a few may by chance be good, the greater portion
will be poor spiny things that have small heads with
little substance. It is best therefore to rely upon the
smaller growths at the base these are produced freely
and to make a new quarter every three years. In Italy
the plants are often made to produce what are termed
Chards ; that is, the plants are not only grown for their
flower heads but the leaf or stalk is used after blanching
in the same way as Cardoons. The plants are cut over
early and the new leaf growths that form are tied
together, blanched and used like a Cardoon. This may
with advantage be followed out in this country when the
plants begin to fail through age. Previous to their being
destroyed, they may be made serviceable by giving a crop
of chards. In Paris the large Green Artichoke is the
greater favourite. This is called the de Laon, and
grown beside the ordinary green type it has several
points in its favour, the one most notable being its suc-
culent scales. This variety is a great favourite in the
Paris markets, and early in the season there are consider-
GLOBE ARTICHOKE 7
able quantities imported into this country. There is a
Purple variety that does well in this country, having
much the same character as the large Green and only
differing in colour ; and there is a smaller form that is
largely grown abroad called the Perpetual, and this differs
from the Globe or large round headed, the scales being
more curved inwards at the tops. The plants produce
freely till cut down by frost when grown in this country.
In France the Perpetual is much liked when cooked
before it is full grown, and in sheltered positions may be
had nearly the whole year. It is of a purplish gray colour.
As regards cultural details, they may be described as
simple, providing deeply dug land not too heavy is
given, and well enriched with manure. The plant being
a gross feeder needs ample food. An open position should
be selected, and in clayey soils I have seen burnt refuse
or old leaf soil used to advantage. I have previously
noted that it is well to plant every three years ; indeed
where there is a large demand for fine heads I would
prefer making a new quarter yearly, as by so doing the
plants produce finer heads and continue to form them
much later in the season. The plant in light or gravelly
soils is soon affected by drought, and in such soils there
should always be liberal top dressings in the way of
mulching, the latter given just as the plants commence
to form heads, and copious supplies of liquid manure
will be beneficial. The plant also enjoys occasional
dressing of salt, and in gardens where liquid manure is
unobtainable I would advise a liberal dressing of fertiliser
of a quick acting nature. Doubtless the most important
point is to get a good variety and keep it by root division
early in the spring, the land having been previously pre-
pared ; indeed it is well to dig and manure the land some
weeks in advance of planting if the soil is not of a
clayey nature, as then it is in better condition for the
plant. The suckers are taken from the parent plant
8 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
when about 8 to lo inches long, or less would suffice,
but each one should be taken with a heel ; that is, a
small portion of the stem of the old plant is slipped off,
and often with this will be some small roots attached, the
stools or old plants being carefully uncovered to get at
the young sucked growth. In planting there are two
ways: either in straight rows 1 8 inches apart, 3 feet
between the rows, or three suckers in a clump 9 to 12
inches apart and 4 feet between the rows in places where
plants winter well. I prefer the last named; and in other
places the single plant system, as I find the plants can be
more readily protected. In planting make each sucker firm
and water thoroughly, and mulch over in dry seasons.
In heavy land I would advise making raised mounds for
each lot of plants by liberal additions to the soil of
lighter materials ; and by raising and using rotten manure
freely, the plants do much better than on the surface if
the soil is clayey or at all wet. The plants will give a
few heads the first season, but later than the older
ones ; but they will give a much later crop, and often, say
in October or early November, there will be no lack of
good heads from the young plants, and these, if cut
with a few inches of stalk and placed in water, may be
kept for weeks in a cool root store. At the approach
of frost the plants should have all the old stalks removed,
the long leaf foliage also being reduced to about 18
inches, and yellow leaves entirely cut away, and a good
thickness of dry bracken or litter placed over the
roots, closely packing round the stems of the plants,
as from this portion next season's suckers will be
obtained. In gardens where these plants winter badly
I have found it advantageous to lift a few young
stools, and to divide and plant them in a cold frame ;
or they may be potted if a special variety. In March
the protecting material is removed, and after a little
exposure the new planting, if needed, is done, the old
GLOBE ARTICHOKE 9
plants are liberally manured, and the plants will soon
begin to form heads. In some parts of the kingdom
protection is not necessary ; and here growth is earlier,
so that the plant in open quarters may be divided earlier
than April, but the growers must be governed by the
locality, soil, and surroundings. If the suckers are ob-
tained from any distance they should be packed in wet
moss, and in all cases there should be ample supplies of
moisture when required during the growing season.
The season for gathering of the heads is important, as if
too large they are dry and iiavourless, and though they
may be used in a small state they are lacking the flavour
of a quickly grown large succulent head. The heads
are best just before the centre scales begin to unfold and
whilst the outer ones are quite plump and fresh. The
crop early in the spring may be hastened by covering
the new growths at night by mats over stakes, also by
giving food -in the shape of nitrates and fish manure,
the latter well washed down to the roots.
To BOIL GLOBE ARTICHOKES
Having cut off the stem level with the leaves, and
having cut an inch or so from the top leaves, and
removed the harder of the bottom leaves, clean and
wash the Artichokes and plunge them into boiling salted
water. Boil for half an hour or so, till the leaves are
easily removed. Dish on a folded napkin, and serve
with oil and vinegar, Sauce Hollandais, or melted butter.
A FRENCH METHOD OF COOKING ARTICHOKES
A French method of cooking Artichokes is the follow-
ing, given by M. Urbain-Dubois : Trim the vegetable
as before, then quarter it, scoop out the "choke"
(i.e., the undeveloped flower), rub the inside well
with lemon juice, and three parts boil in acidulated
slated water ; then drain well, place in a buttered
10 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
stewpan, season with salt and white pepper, put little
morsels of butter over them, and stew gently over a
slow fire till cooked, when they may be served with
a maitre d* hotel sauce (to half a pint of rich be-
chamel or good brown sauce if you wish it brown
add the strained juice of a lemon, a dust of cayenne, a
teaspoonful of minced parsley, and, worked in at the
last, ij ounces to 2 ounces of butter broken up small,
working one piece well in before adding the next), or
any other sauce to taste.
The two following recipes are given by Mrs de
Salis in her useful little book called " Dressed Vegetables
a la Mode."
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA CAREME
Fonds d'Artichauts a la Careme
Wash the Artichokes thoroughly. Boil them till they
are nearly tender ; drain them, remove the middle
leaves and the Chokes, and lay in each a little of a
forcemeat composed of six oysters, one sardine, two
anchovies, and a few shrimps or prawns or pieces of
lobster, all minced finely together, and put into a
sauce made of a grated tablespoonful of horse radish,
half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a tablespoonful of
vinegar, half a teaspoonful of capers, and one gill of
white sauce. Let this boil up, then stir in the fish
mixture, fill the Artichokes, and bake in the oven till
tender and done. Scatter lobster coral on the top of
each before serving, or alternately lobster coral and
grated fried parsley.
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA KAISER
Fonds d'Artichauts h la Kaiser
Cook some Artichoke bottoms ; season them with a
little grated Parmesan cheese. Take some plain round
GLOBE ARTICHOKE n
glossy tomatoes and place one on each Artichoke ; lay
some mushroom puree on the top of each, taking care
to smooth it well ; place each Artichoke on a fried
crouton masked with the tomato puree, and put them
in a deep tin dish, and bake them in the oven (which
must not be a fierce one) for about ten minutes. Just
before serving, sprinkle a little fine-chopped parsley over,
and curl an anchovy on the top of each round a sprig
of parsley that has been heated in the oven.
CHINESE ARTICHOKE
THE Chinese Artichoke or Stachys tuberifera is a
hardy tuberous-rooted perennial, and though a small
root is a welcome addition to the winter vegetables. It
is not always well grown"; and on this account is not
always made the best use of, as unless given good
culture the plant gives much smaller tubers and is
of much less value. The culture is most simple.
The plant, though small, should not be crowded,
and it does best in a well-drained, well-enriched free
working soil, and the plant to get large tubers should
never be allowed to suffer from drought in the growing
season. It differs much from the older forms of Arti-
choke, as the plant rarely exceeds 1 8 inches in height;
and this shows that a wide space is not needed between
the rows 1 8 inches will suffice, and 6 to 9 inches in the
row ; the growth being weakly a well-worked or fine
surface soil is necessary. In heavy clay soils I have
made such soil suitable by having raised beds, making
the top soil lighter by liberal additions of burnt garden
refuse, old fine mortar rubble, and any old potting or leaf
soil, the tubers when planted being covered with the
light material. Planting is done early in the spring just
before growth commences, and it is a good plan to draw
drills 6 inches deep and place the small tubers in
position at the distances advised above. When the
tubers are forming freely, say in July and August, it will
be found of great advantage to give liquid manure or
flood the quarter, using a quick acting fertiliser if liquid
manure is not at hand. Another important point is to
CHINESE ARTICHOKE 13
plant good seed. It should be borne in mind that a small
weak tuber cannot possibly yield equal produce to a
well-nourished one, as though there may be no question
as to its growing freely a goodly portion of the season
taken up in building up a plant before it can pro-
is
CHINESE ARTICHOKE
duce tubers. This plant has a tendency to make
small growths, and we have obtained the best results
from a strong seed tuber by keeping the plants free from
the small shoots, only allowing the strong ones. In
dry gravelly soils there is a great gain by giving a rich
surface mulch, to retain moisture. The plant is very
hardy, and in well-drained soil, after the tops die down,
i 4 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
the tubers may remain in their growing quarters. In other
cases it may be necessary to lift in November and store
in fine soil or sand in a cool shed. The quality of the
tubers suffers greatly if they become dried or shrivel,
which frequently happens if lifted too early or given
warm storage. So that whenever possible it is advis-
able to winter the tubers where grown, and lift as re-
quired for use. The plant left to chance soon becomes
a nuisance, as it runs wild and is of little value, but
given good cultivation may be made a valuable winter
vegetable. In no case should the tubers be exposed to the
light, as they quickly lose their ivory white colour and
assume a dirty yellowish cast. In most gardens it would
be found a good plan to give this vegetable change of
quarters every other season, taking care that the smallest
tubers are removed from the soil, otherwise there will be
a difficulty in getting rid of small useless growths. In no
case should the plants have a shaded position, but an
open one, and a rich root run with ample moisture. The
tubers are at their best as a vegetable from November
to April, and many persons like them mixed with salads
when cooked, and they impart a peculiar flavour in a raw
state. They more resemble a large Radish.
To BOIL CHINESE ARTICHOKES
Wash and plunge the Artichokes into boiling salted
water. Boil them for from fifteen to twenty minutes,
and serve with melted butter or sauce Hollandaise.
To FRY CHINESE ARTICHOKES
Chinese Artichokes are delicious when washed as
above and merely dried and then fried in boiling oil
or butter. When browned, serve hot on buttered
toast. They may also be covered with egg and bread
crumbs and cooked whole, being fried as above.
CAPSICUM
THE Capsicum (Capsicum annuurri) is not largely culti-
vated in this country. Owing to our short seasons, it can
never be much of a favourite. The small varieties are
mostly grown for decora-
tion, but my note more
refers to their use as a
vegetable in a green
state ; and in the United
States and parts of the
continent the large kinds
are grown for that pur-
pose. There are a large
numberof varieties grown
in the countries named,
but it would serve no use-
ful purpose to enumerate
them. Some of the huge
growers more resemble
Tomatoes, as regards
size, than the ordinary
pepper. Some of the
kinds, again, are small
and more useful for
salads. Others, when
dried, are largely used to
flavour Pickles, and these
are mostly small with a very pungent flavour. The
culture is simple if a glass protection can be given at
the start. Indeed, I would, to get the best results,
15
SPANISH MAMMOTH CAPSICUMS
(One-third natural size)
1 6 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
advise frame culture. Seeds are best sown in February
or March in pots or pans, in light rich soil in ;
warm bed, and, when large enough, packed off into
small pots, again placing under glass ; and they may
be grown in pots to fruit, being shifted on into 6
or 7-inch pots and grown on shelves near the light,
or what is better, grown in frames near the glass. A
frame that has grown Potatoes or early vegetables
will grow excellent Capsicums if the soil is kept and
there is warmth. Planted out there are much finer and
heavier crops, and the plants continue to fruit if the
green ones are gathered as required. A portion may
be planted out on a warm border, but care must be
taken to keep down red spider by damping overhead
in the afternoon ; and they will, both in frames and in
the open .ground, take liberal supplies of food in the
shape of liquid manure.
CAPSICUMS
The dried fruits may be ground as required to furnish
cayenne pepper, or the green Capsicums may be cooked
as suggested in " Leaves from our Tuscan Kitchen."
CAPSICUMS " FARCITI." No. I
Select large green sweet Capsicums, and for each one
take half a pound of minced roast or boiled fowl,
half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, a little salt
and pepper, and some chopped parsley, and mix ; add
two ounces of melted butter and mix again. Meanwhile
cut off one end of the Capsicums (remove the seeds), and
put the Capsicums into a saucepan of boiling water ;
cover the pan and let it boil for about a quarter of an
hour. Then drain the Capsicums well, fill them with
the forcemeat, and sprinkle them over with bread-
crumbs. Put some butter in an earthen pan and cook the
Capsicums in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour.
CAPSICUM 17
CAPSICUMS " FARCITI." No. 2
Fry six medium-sized green sweet Capsicums for one
minute in boiling fat, drain, peel, and cut off the ends,
keeping them to use as covers. Remove the insides,
and fill them with forcemeat made of minced fresh
pork, a spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, half
a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and the same of
powdered thyme. Put on the ends, lay the Capsicums
in a well-oiled baking-dish, add a little pure olive oil,
and put them in a moderate oven to bake for a quarter
of an hour. Turn them on to a hot dish, and serve
with a quarter of a pint of Vellutata sauce with a little
Marsala added.
CAPSICUMS " AL FORNO"
Cut two or more green Capsicums in two lengthwise,
remove the seeds and filaments, and parboil them in
boiling water for five minutes. Fill each half with an
equal quantity of softened bread-crumb and minced
meat, seasoned with butter, salt, and a squeeze of lemon.
Then put them into a baking-dish in half an inch of
good stock (or water), and bake. Serve in the baking-
dish hot.
CARDOON
THE Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus} is by no means
a common vegetable, but is one well worth extended
cultivation, being distinct from other vegetables. It is
a perennial belonging to the southern parts of Europe.
This plant is closely related to the artichoke; indeed it
may be thought that the Globe variety and the Cardoon
are one, but with the latter plant it is the fleshy leaf-
stalk that is edible, and in this the plant more re-
sembles Celery. The stalks or ribs of the plants are
blanched like Celery, and may be cooked in a variety
of ways, and when well served they constitute a tender
and good dish, but I fear the cooking of this vegetable
in this country is not well known. On the continent
the Cardoon is much esteemed, and considered a choice
dish. There are some half-dozen varieties under culti-
vation. I am aware that nominally there are more,
but they vary mostly in name and in the size of the
plant. The commoner form has spineless leaves, the
leaf-stalk is solid, but mere size does not in this vege-
table like others denote quality, as I have found that
the larger growers are different in flavour and less
tender or succulent. This should be borne in mind, as
in all vegetables, common or otherwise, it is important
to grow those that give the best quality. The Spanish
Cardoon is the variety mostly grown in this country,
and the kind that nursery and seedsmen usually send
if the Cardoon is asked for, and no specific variety
stated, but it is by no means the best, and is a
large grower having spineless leaves, and like the
18
CARDOON
common it is apt to run to seed. This latter is a
great fault, as the culture entails considerable expense
of labour and space, and when this is lost by premature
seeding it is most annoying. The Tours Cardoon is a
variety much liked in France, and unfortunately this is
PRICKLY TOURS CARDOON
(One-fifteenth natural size)
excessively spiny and most difficult to work amongst or
handle as the long sharp spines are most disagreeable.
On the other hand, this variety produces a better stalk
than the others noted above, the stalk or leaf being
thicker, more solid, and when cooked of superior quality,
and this variety is less subject to run to seed, and may
therefore be classed as one of the most suitable in
20 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
every way. Some varieties are not nearly as hardy
as others, but the Tours is one of the best in this
respect. The best Cardoon I ever grew was from some
seed given me by a celebrated traveller. It was a reddish
stem or leaf-stalk not unlike the Marseilles, but much
smaller, and of such a tender nature it was soon injured
by cold. I was unable afterwards to get it true from
home-grown seed, as it produced inferior stock. The
Marseilles is a red stemmed Cardoon, having large leaves
and smooth, and a solid stalk of good quality. The
Puvis is a very large grower, having a thick leaf-stalk,
very solid, and a thick or close leaf growth with very
few spines ; it is also a free grower that does not soon
run to seed, and when cooked it is considered one of the
best. This I consider one of the best for ordinary garden
culture, as, owing to the spineless or nearly spineless
nature, it is much better and more readily handled. The
above comprise the best known kinds, and the selection
will be considered quite large enough for ordinary
purposes.
The plant needs more space than many other vege-
tables. Its culture is not well known, and the plant is
much better when raised under glass and planted out,
getting a longer season's growth if this is done. A
warm, well-drained soil, well enriched with manure, in
an open position, is the best. Doubtless, in this country,
the trench system in the same way as Asparagus is grown
is the most reliable. Seed may be sown in pots under
glass for an early supply in March, or early in April to
plant out the end of May. Many good cultivators sow in
heat, but I do not advise it, as given merely glass or
cold frame shelter at the start, a sturdier plant is
obtained and there is less risk at the planting out.
At the start very little moisture is required till the
seedlings have germinated, and it is well to sow these
seeds in small pots; and when these are well above
CARDOON 21
the soil, thin to the largest and grow near the glass,
and give the seedlings ample ventilation as growth
increases. For the planting out, the ground or trenches
should be prepared in advance, and even when the
plants are grown in the open from the start this advice
still applies. The trenches should be at least 4 feet apart,
and 1 2 inches deep, not taking into account the manure
which is placed in the bottom of the trench, of which
there should be at least 6 inches. This is dug in, and
the plants placed at 1 8 inches apart in the trench. For
the large growers more room is advantageous. To get
the plants for the first supply I mean those raised under
glass, and when this plant is liked two or three Jots
may be grown, thus forming a succession the same
routine may be followed as concerns the land and
spaces, but the seed may be sown in the trench, a few
seeds dropped in at intervals of 1 8 inches lightly
covered with soil, and when large enough thinned to
the strongest. Doubtless this is the best system, for
medium-sized produce, when only one lot of plants is
grown, as should the least check occur to the plants
raised in heat they invariably bolt or run to seed. If
a late lot of plants should be required, seed may be
sown in June, but the end of April or early in May
is the best time for the open ground plants. All
varieties are obtained from seed, and at the start the
growth is slow in comparison with the after-growth as
the plant will make rapid progress after midsummer
providing there is no lack of moisture.
The after-management of the plants is simple. It
may be summed up as plenty of food in the shape of
moisture and liquid manure, and attention to moulding
up, that is, blanching and protection from frost and rain.
As regards the blanching, the plants should be full
grown or nearly so before this is attempted ; I do not
advise doing the work before October, and it should
22 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
be done in fine weather. Any of the lower small or
yellow leaves should be cleaned away, and those that are
to be blanched should be secured in an upright position ;
if they are at all spiny this needs care, as they break
readily, and I find it best to give several loose ties. These
can be removed as the work proceeds. To cover the
lower portion of the stalks many persons use haybands.
These are wound round from the base and a good body
of soil pressed close against the haybands to exclude
air and moisture, the upper portion for 12 inches only
being drawn together, not moulded. There are other
methods. Large drain pipes may be used. These drawn
over the plant and then filled in with fine soil or sand
answer well. I have also seen stout brown paper or coarse
canvas bands used in the place of haybands, but whatever
is used must be sufficient to effect the blanching and
exclude air. If the plants are moulded up early in
October, they will be fit for use in a month's time.
The later plants should be left growing as long as
possible before covering. The plant is tender, but it
may be kept good for some time if lifted before being
frozen, preserving the root, and placing in a dry place. I
have lifted and placed them in sand in a root store, getting
a good ball of earth, and kept them sound till March.
The later and medium-sized plants winter well grown
from seed, as they are smaller and lift well. If it is
desired to save any good kind, the plant is easily
produced from suckers, but then there must be no
"blanching, and it will be necessary in most places to
protect from frost or, what is better, to place stools in
frames, or pot up and plant out in the spring ; but I
think this plant quickly degenerates if grown in the
same soil for years, and as good material can be obtained
from seed, I do not advise growing plants for general
use. The Cardoon is in season from October till
March.
CARDOON 23
To COOK CARDOONS
The best way to cook Cardoons is to follow Mrs
RoundelPs advice and to cut them into four or five inch
lengths, and throw them into boiling water into which a
little lemon-juice has been squeezed. Keep the
Cardoons boiling till their outer woolly skin will rub off
in a cloth. Drain them, and throw them into cold water.
When the Cardoons have cooled, scrape them, and pull
off the stringy skin. Fill a crockery stewpan with boil-
ing water flavoured with pepper and salt, lay a good-
sized piece of raw bacon at the bottom, cutting the rind
in strips, add a bunch of herbs, and then the Cardoons.
Simmer gently till the Cardoons are tender, which may
take two hours or more, according to their age and size.
Drain the Cardoons and warm them up in good brown
sauce. Or they can be served with white, sauce.
Wyvern advises that Cardoons should be placed on
slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, with
more bacon above them, and only just enough blanc to
cover all. Then add slices of lemon, a little mignonette,
pepper, and salt, cover the pan, and let the Cardoons
simmer very gently till done. The blanc is a sort of
stock which is used in boiling celery or any white vege-
table to preserve the colour. To make blanc, cut up as
small as possible a quarter of a pound of beef suet, and
put it with a tablespoonful of flour into three and a half
pints of cold water in a stewpan. Boil up and add eight
ounces of onion cut up small, a bunch of curly parsley,
a tablespoonful of dried thyme or marjoram, the rind of
a lemon, a teaspoonful of sugar and one of salt. Stir
well over a brisk fire for half an hour, strain, but do not
take off the fat as the blanc cooks. When the Cardoons
or other vegetables are cooked in blanc, put in with
them two or three slices of lemon freed from pips, to
improve the colour.
CELERIAC
CELERIAC, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is a great favourite
in cold countries, and is more largely grown than
Celery. It differs in shape, and its season is from
October to April. It is described as Turnip rooted,
but this is scarcely a good description, as it widens at the
base and is of a more rugged build than a Turnip. It
is harder than Celery, and can be made a valuable sub-
stitute when cooked and sliced with salads. There are
very few kinds grown. If the best is required, it is well
to get a continental variety. Our seedsmen do not often
get called upon to furnish the seed of this vegetable :
whereas quite half a dozen are catalogued by the Messrs
Vilmorin of Paris. A few years ago I made a trial of
the best kinds, and they were worth special notice as the
quality was splendid. The culture differs from Celery,
as here the root is the edible portion, not the stalk, and
there is no blanching. And what makes Celeriac so
useful is that it keeps sound for quite six months after
being full grown. Large quantities of well-grown
roots are imported into this country, but there is no
difficulty in growing the best produce at home if seed
is sown in heat or under glass in the same way as Celery,
the seedlings being picked out when large enough, and
finally planted out in rows, 2 feet apart and 12 inches
between the plants. A rich root run is necessary, and
ample food in the shape of liquid manure is well repaid
as the plant is a gross feeder. I have in light land
planted in rather deep drills, as grown thus it is an
easy matter to feed and give moisture. The planting
CELERIAC 25
out should be done in May or June, and the after-
management is simple, merely hoeing between the plants
and keeping the ground clean. In October the bulbs
are ready for use, and they may be lifted, the tops
twisted off, and then stored in fine ashes or soil in a cool
store. I have in the southern part of the kingdom left
the roots in their growing quarters and covered with
litter or dry Bracken in severe weather. This is an
advantage in some respects, as in the soil the roots keep
much firmer and are sweeter or of a more nutty flavour.
In planting it is well to remove all side growths, re-
stricting to the one central growth. This must also be
done occasionally in the summer months, and it may be
necessary to remove a small portion of the top soil to
get at the side or split growths. A few weeks before
the plants are lifted it is a good plan to draw a little
soil well into the foliage. This will cause the upper
part of the root to get better coloured or partially
26 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
blanched. I have referred to varieties, and there are
three well worth naming. The Giant Prague, a large
root, and one that is much grown in Germany. It is
of good quality, being solid and a good keeper. The
smaller Erfurt Celeriac, a most useful garden variety
and of splendid quality. This is a favourite in the
London market, and one of the varieties much imported.
The Paris Ameliore, a variety much grown for the Paris
markets, is also very good. There are several others,
but those named are enough for all purposes, as they are
the best.
To COOK CELERIAC
To cook Celeriac, peel the roots, quarter them, and
plunge them into plenty of boiling salted water and boil
them till tender, either in the water used to blanch them,
or else in weak stock. They are then served with a
sauce according to taste. Celeriac, in the form of a
puree, makes a useful garnish for poultry or cutlets.
It is also delicious when cooked and served in the
same way as Beetroot, being sliced and placed in vinegar ;
or it may be sliced in a raw state and fried in butter till
nearly brown.
CHERVIL
THE ordinary garden Chervil (Choerophyllum bulbosum)
is more often grown than the bulbous-rooted form, or
what is commonly called the vegetable Chervil. The
latter is a hardy biennial and a native of Southern
Europe, and in shape not unlike a Parsnip, or as regards
size resembles an ordinary Short-Horn Carrot. I need
not touch the fine leaved variety ; doubtless this will be
described in the work on salads or herbs. It is used for
soups, salads, and garnishing. The flavour of the bulbous-
rooted form is very distinct from most other vegetables ;
the flesh is a yellowish white, rather sweet but not un-
pleasant, and more floury than the Parsnip. As an article
of food it is well worth a trial in all gardens where
variety in vegetables is valued, but the seed requires more
time to germinate than many of our common vegetables,
and therefore cannot be termed profitable, though the
produce from a small piece of land often repays the
grower. The best mode of culture, that is to get roots
in one season, is to place the seed in the autumn in sand
or fine soil in boxes. This placed in a frame or any frost
proof position will cause the seeds to germinate quickly
when sown in February or March the next season, as it
is an easy matter to sow the seed mixed with the soil
in drills 15 inches apart, thinning the plants to half that
distance in the row. The plant thrives in any ordinary
garden soil, and when in full growth soon forms a bulb
and is fit for use. The older plan of sowing early in
the autumn on an open quarter may be carried out in
the southern parts of the country in well-drained soil. It
28- THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
is best to sow in September ; and grown thus the roots
will be of good quality and ready to lift at the end of the
summer, as they will show their maturity by the leaves
colouring and decaying. It is well to store the roots
when growth ceases in a cool root store or cellar, and
not exposed to the light. They remain good a consider-
able time, and the roots should be kept free of moisture.
To BOIL CHERVIL
Wash and brush the roots, but do not cut them.
Place them in a pan, pour over them sufficient boiling
water to cover them, and let them simmer for about an
hour and a half.
To FRY CHERVIL
Cook the roots as above for about an hour, then cut
into long shreds and fry in butter.
CHICK-PEA
THE Chick-pea (Clcer arletinum}, commonly called the
Egyptian Pea, and more largely used on the con-
tinent than in this country, is an annual plant, a
native of South Europe, and it is there largely culti-
vated for its seeds, though in this country we rarely
have warm or dry enough summers to ripen the
seeds. There are several varieties, but as they only
differ in the colour of the seeds I need not enumerate
them ; still the various colours are valued for cooking
purposes, and they are mostly employed in soups or
purees, and though somewhat firm in texture they are
much liked. Belonging to the Pea family the plant
needs similar treatment as regards its culture. Sown in
drills 3 feet apart, the seed in the drill being placed
thinly, and the plants given good soil, they produce their
small pods in abundance. These should be gathered
before the seeds are quite ripe and given cool storage.
They keep a long time, and the best pods are produced
from spring-sown plants on an open sunny border. In
the United States the plant does very well, and is more
grown than in this country.
To COOK CHICK-PEAS
The dried seeds of the Chick-pea may be cooked in
any of the ways usually employed to cook dry Peas.
Excellent chick-pea soup and chick-pease-pudding can
be made. Rarely, the seeds are roasted and used as a
very vile substitute for coffee.
29
CHICORY
CHICORY is a plant largely used for salad purposes, but
it is also valuable as a vegetable when well served, as it
possesses properties that are rare in other vegetables.
Upon its use as a salad I do not intend to dwell as
this will be described elsewhere. For vegetable uses
it needs much the same culture, but a better plant is
required to secure fine growth.
Those persons who have an opportunity of seeing our
large markets in
towns may have ob-
served neat bundles
or baskets of Chi-
cory imported from
the continent, the
blanched growths
being somewhat
like Seakale, and
that is the edible
portion used as a
vegetable. The
green leaves not
forced may also be used like Spinach, and they produce
so freely in the spring, when ordinary Spinach is scarce,
that they may be termed a good substitute. To get
forced material the seeds are sown in April or May
in deeply dug land, in rows 15 to 1 8 inches apart and
the seedlings thinned to 9 inches in the row. In the
late autumn the roots are lifted as required and placed
in a dark place or mushroom house, and the growths
BROAD-LEAVED CHICORY
{One-eighth natural size)
CHICORY ROOTS
CHICORY 31
are cut when from 4 to 6 inches long. It is the
large or crown growth that is most valuable ; for salad
purposes the smaller leafage is best. As regards
varieties a large grower is most suitable, and doubtless
the Whitloof, a variety much grown on the continent,
is the best. This gives a larger growth than the com-
mon Barbe de Capucin. There are not many kinds of
the rooting varieties, but numerous ones of the leaf or
salad or French Chicory, as under this name the Endives
are grown in great variety.
To COOK CHICORY
The green leaves of Chicory may be cooked in spring
by scalding them for five or six minutes in boiling salted
water, draining through acolander, throwingtheleaves into
cold water, again draining, and then cutting up the leaves.
The chopped leaves should next be placed in a saucepan
containing (for each pound of fresh Chicory leaves ) half
an ounce of flour, a quarter of an ounce of butter, and a
little pepper and salt, which has been heated over the
fire for three or four minutes. Stir all together over a
gentle fire for five minutes, and then add a teacupful of
milk or broth, and stir over the fire till nearly dry.
Take the pan from the fire and add about an ounce of
butter, stir, and serve on a hot dish. Always use plenty
of water in blanching the leaves.
The blanched stems are cooked like Seakale.
CHOU DE BURGHLEY
THIS plant belongs to the Brassicas, and is part
cabbage and part Brocoli, and is doubtless the result
of a cross, but all the same is really a very excellent
vegetable for autumn and winter supplies. This
was raised by the late Mr Gilbert, a good grower
of vegetables,, and is well worth room in all gardens.
As regards its quality few persons could find a more
delicious vegetable, as the small hearts or Brocoli portion
of the plant is really first rate, and if used as a cabbage
it is excellent. It needs similar culture to the early
Brocoli. Sown in March, and planted out in May, 2
feet apart, in good land deeply dug and manured it does
well. It is very hardy, and grows freely in the northern
or exposed portions of the country. I have had two
lots of plants, an early and later one ; and grown thus
there is a long supply.
coco
THE Coco (Colocasia esculenta) as an article of food
would not be popular in this country, but in the tropics
it is grown as a field plant under the name of Coco,
and the tuberous root is used as food, being used much
in the same way as the Sweet Potato, boiled, roasted,
or baked, and at times the leaves in a young state
are used as a vegetable. This plant in this country
is mostly known as Caladium esculenta, aid is not
hardy though it does well planted out in the summer.
Very good tubers of this variety were sent a few
years ago to the Royal Horticultural Society to show
its value as a vegetable.
33
COUVE TRONCHUDA
COUVE TRONCHUDA, or Seakale Cabbage (Brassica
oleracea costata), is by no means a popular vegetable or one
much known or grown, and on this account it is given
a place as it is useful for autumn supplies. It may
be described as
useful, as the
heads make an
excellent dish in
the autumn, and
it grows well in
a good soil. It
is an excellent
cabbage if not
grown in a cold
or exposed situa-
BRAGANZA, PORTUGAL OR SEA-KALE CABBAGE tlOD, and OUC that
(One-twelfth natural size) g'^CS a good TC-
turn. The large
full grown leaves are used in the same way as Seakale ;
that is, the fleshy rind ribs of the plants may be cooked
thus, and they make a really good vegetable if well
cooked.
The culture is the same as for the ordinary Brassica ;
that is, seed is sown in the early spring and the seedlings
transplanted when large enough, 2 feet apart each
way. Grown in an open position they do well.
34
DANDELION
DANDELION (Taraxacum officinale) is not often used as a
vegetable in this country, but is well worth cultivat-
ing for that purpose. For salad purposes it is equally
valuable, but my note concerns its uses in vegetable
form, and grown for this purpose for use from March
THICK-LEAVED, OR CABBAGING, DANDELION
(One-fifth natural size)
till June it is not at all bad. If the roots are lifted
in November and stored in soil or sand they may be
placed in a mushroom house or any dark place and
the new growths are by many persons much liked as
a vegetable ; but as grown thus much heat must not
be employed, as the warmth causes a thickened leaf
stalk, and it is the green leaf that is best for boiling.
The common Dandelion is not recommended ; the large
leaved French variety is far superior and this is very
35
36 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
easily grown. There is also a very good variety, the
improved broad-leaved ; this is even better than the
French, as it does not run to seed so quickly, but as the
plant for use as a vegetable is not needed for summer
supplies its seeding is not important. The plants are
best raised from seed sown in April in rows 18 inches
apart, 9 inches between the plants in the row. It likes a
moist soil and should be sown very thinly and thinned
early. The plants left in their growing quarters will last
for years, but much finer leafage is secured by sowing
annually, not allowing the old plants to seed.
To COOK DANDELION LEAVES
An excellent dish may be made by taking equal
quantities of young Dandelion leaves and Sorrel leaves,
cutting them into slices, placing the Dandelion leaves in
a stewpan with a minimum of boiling water and stewing
them till tender, then adding the Sorrel leaves and boiling
till the whole of the water is absorbed or evaporated,
the vegetables being quite soft, stirring in some butter,
pepper and salt, mixing all well together, and serving it
either alone or with poached eggs.
Or the Dandelion leaves, having been boiled for about
half an hour, may be lifted out in a strainer, plunged into
cold water, gently pressed till fairly dry, and then
chopped fine. The chopped leaves should next be placed
in a pan containing an ounce of butter, a dessert-spoonful
of flour, a tablespoonful of stock, and a little pepper and
salt, well blended together. This mixture should be
heated and stirred for about ten minutes, when a table-
spoonful of cream or rich sauce should be added and the
whole served.
EGG PLANT
THE Aubergine or Egg Plant (Solatium melongena) is
an annual half hardy plant, a native of South America
and the tropical parts of Asia and Africa. It is widely
distributed, and it has been known in this country for
over three hundred years ; but we have not made
much headway as regards its culture or its cooking.
There are a goodly number of varieties, but very few
are grown in this country. The Messrs Vilmorin, Paris,
catalogue nearly a dozen. All are not egg shaped, some
more resemble a Cucumber or miniature long Marrow.
Others are round and really very handsome when grown
as decorative plants ; and their varied colours, white,
cream, and purple, and other shades, are very telling
when grown in pots. The American kinds are larger
than others. One, the New York Giant or Purple, is a
very fine fruit, round and purplish in colour. This
variety grows freely, and the quality is very fine. This
is a standard dish in the country named, and given frame
culture is one of the largest. It is well worth growing
in this country. The Chinese Brinjal, or as it is better
known the Aubergine blanche longue de la Chine of
the French, is a very distinct fruit, a long white, and of
more substance than some others. There is the ronde
de Chine or Noire de Pekin, a nice-shaped fruit of a dark
violet colour. This sets readily, and is a very good
fruiter. The de Madras also is a variety well worth
attention. This is an oblong fruit, violet coloured and
of excellent table quality. The long Violet and the
Black Pekin, a very dark purple fruit, are well-known
37
38 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
kinds. The Black variety is one of the darkest colours
grown, but the colour does not affect the quality. The
small Violette naine is a pretty fruit, excellent for pot
culture, and there are several white or cream coloured
varieties. These vary in shape, and I have seen a
reddish fruit but
not grown it.
They are cer-
tainly a most in-
teresting class of
plants, and well
deserving of at-
tention. At one
time they were
only considered
novelties, but
there is no doubt
whatever but that
they are valuable
for food, being a
wholesome and
delicious vege-
table, and cer-
tainly worth
extended cultiva-
tion. I have seen
them grown for
decorative purposes in anything but a happy condition.
The plants, once they receive a check, are very sub-
ject to red spiders. This points to the need of
ample moisture in the house, as the pest will not
thrive under this condition. Another evil is allowing
the plants to be starved or pot bound. The best
results are secured from plants grown in frames in
rich soil planted out. In the Paris market gardens a
great deal of attention is given to these plants; and
LONG PURPLE EGG PLANT
{One-fifth natural size)
EGG PLANT 39
so many fruits are secured from plants grown in a
small space, that they are really profitable. As a vege-
table those who have lived in foreign parts, are most
partial to them, and they make a nice break in the
ordinary supply of green foods; and during the summer
months many persons who have spare frames or pots
could grow the Aubergine to advantage, and once grown
they would, I feel sure, become favourites and always
find a place.
To get strong plants early it is well to sow seed in
January or February in a warm house, giving the seeds
bottom heat to cause rapid germination. In all cases at
this time of year the plants should have a temperature
of 65 to 70 degrees, and if bottom heat is not given there
must be careful watering till the seedlings are through
the soil. As soon as the plants have made two leaves
they should be transferred to small pots, one in each,
and grown near the light. In a short time, say three
weeks or so, the plants will be ready for another shift,
and may then be placed in 6-inch pots and grown on as
before, finally potting into 8 or 9-inch pots. These latter
are for fruiting in. The soil should be fairly rich ; that
is, a good loam, to which should be added fertilisers or
well-decayed manure, and this applies more to the later
pottings than to the early. It is also important to keep
the plants moving ; that is, at no time during their early
stages of growth should they be allowed to get pot
bound as this would cause a few stray fruits to set, and
loss of crop. During the time the plants are maturing
their fruits there should be liberal supplies of liquid
manure, but this should be discontinued as soon as the
fruits have attained their full size, or show signs of
colouring. The plants should always be grown on a
single leg or stem at the start, and when strong enough
they should have the points taken out to cause a branched
40 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
growth and show fruit. Four to six fruits are ample.
After these are secured, later fruits and lateral growth
should be stopped, the plants syringed overhead twice
daily and kept free of insect pests.
The above-described culture is for pot plants, but I
think the best results are obtained from plants planted out
in beds, not unlike Capsicums, or treated like Vegetable
Marrows given frame culture. By planting out, a greater
number of fruits are secured from the plants, as they
begin to fruit in June and continue bearing till late in
the summer. Some growers sow their seed in the hot
bed and thin out others in pots, and plant out when the
bed is at the right temperature. In all cases there must
be a warm bed to get the best results ; not too hot, but
made so that the fermenting materials retain the heat as
long as possible. In this country I have seen excellent
results by growing in frames. A bed is prepared in March
and on this is placed a frame, with from 4 to 6 inches
of good soil. When this latter is warmed through, the
seedlings should be planted, having previously been raised
in small pots. Each plant is made firm and may be
allowed 2 feet space and the sashes kept closed for a few
days, shading the plants, giving ventilation carefully as
the plants increase in growth, damping overhead freely
late in the afternoon, and stopping shoots and thinning the
plants later on. At midsummer the sashes may be re-
moved entirely, but there must be no lack of water or
food, as red spider generally attacks the plants if at all
dry, and if this is allowed to spread the fruits fail to set
or swell. Scale also attacks the plants if they are in any
way neglected during growth. In cold or exposed places
I would advise sowing early and giving frame culture
from start to finish. On the other hand, in the southern
part of the country the plants will fruit in the open
ground if planted out in rich soil.
EGG PLANT 41
To COOK AUBERGINES OR EGG PLANTS
According to Wyvern, the ordinary method of pre-
paring this vegetable (brinjal) in India is as follows :
The pods are cut in halves lengthways, the fleshy part
scooped out, put on a plate, and mashed up with butter,
seasoned with salt and pepper and minced hard-boiled
egg added ; the hollowed half pods are then filled with
this mixture, laid out upon a baking sheet, brushed over
with melted butter, and baked in a moderate oven with
heat above and below them; then lifted with a slice, laid
in a legumiere and served the farce being altered at dis-
cretion, grated cheese used for the surface, etc.
Another excellent recipe of Wyvern's is for
AUBERGINES SAUTEES
For this little brinjals as used for curry, whole, are
the best gathered before the seeds have developed.
Blanch for five minutes and then simmer gently in milk
and water till tender ; lift, drain, lay them in a buttered
sautotr, and turn them about over low fire like haricots
verts sautes to expel moisture, set them in a hot
legumiere, sprinkle with parsley and melted butter, and
serve. For this the butters may be varied maitre (fhotel
ravigote, etc.
The following recipe is borrowed from The Queen :
AUBERGINES A LA TURQUE
Cut the ends from the egg plant, and remove the
centre of the fruit with a teaspoon, replacing this with
a mixture of equal parts of cold cooked rice and minced
cooked meat, seasoning with blanched and finely minced
onion, freshly ground black pepper, and salt; now fry
the fruit with a bouquet (thyme, parsley, bay leaf, etc.)
in oil, butter, or clarified dripping, for two or three
42 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
minutes, then drain it, lay in a stewpan with sufficient
thin tomato sauce to cover it and the bunch of herbs,
and stew gently till tender ; then remove the herbs and
dish the vegetable on a hot dish with the tomato sauce
over and round it.
EVENING PRIMROSE
THE Evening Primrose (CRnothera biennis) is a plant
more commonly considered as a flowering plant than
as a vegetable, and is but rarely grown for eating ;
as such indeed I have
never seen it grown in
this country. On the
continent, especially in
Germany, it is cultivated
for its roots, which are
cooked in a variety of
ways. The roots are
fleshy, and are used much
in the same way as Sal-
sify; and I have heard that
they are valuable on ac-
count of their easy diges-
tibility, and that they are
nourishing also. They
are mostly boiled, and
when cold may be mixed
with salad like Celeriac
or Beetroot. Doubtless
there are many parts that
are edible among the large
flowering plants. Take the Helianthus, for instance.
The seeds have been used for food ; they also yield oil
that promises to be valuable as an article of commerce,
and the large leafy kinds have been used for cattle.
The Evening Primrose, if grown for its roots,
43
EVENING PRIMROSE
(One- fifth natural size)
44 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
may be sown in the spring on land well prepared,
and the seedlings when large enough transplanted
in rows 2 feet apart, and kept free of weeds, and not
allowed to suffer in their early stages of growth for
lack of moisture. The plants, I am told by a grower on
the continent, should not be taken up but lifted as re-
quired for use in the autumn, covering over with litter
in severe weather ; if stored in a warm store the roots are
much inferior in flavour. They remain good from
October till March, and make a distinct vegetable at the
season named, and they are liked in soups and stews or
made dishes. They are certainly worth a trial, as they
are easily grown in this country.
To COOK EVENING PRIMROSE ROOTS
These roots may be cooked in any of the ways advised
for Chervil. Also see the various recipes for cooking
Salsify in "The Book of Asparagus."
FENNEL
FENNEL (Fceniculum Jlnochio) is a perennial plant, a
native of Southern Europe, not much grown in this
country, but a favourite in Italy. The above variety
must not be confounded with the Aromatic Fennel, a
plant largely used
for fish sauces and
garnishing and for
flavouring, the seeds
being used largely
for the last named
purpose. The
Finochio variety is
distinct from the
common variety, its
leaf stalks are
thicker and round,
and it is used both
in a raw state some-
what like blanched
celery or boiled FINOCHIO, OR FLORENCE FENNEL
With meat and also is (One-fifth natural size)
eaten with macaroni.
It requires a deep soil and is best sown in drills 1 8
inches apart and the seedlings thinned to half that
distance in the row. It likes a fairly rich moist soil, as
in dry or poor soil the growths are firmer and less
palatable. The leaf stalks are moulded up a month
before using. This blanches the lower part and makes a
most serviceable and distinct vegetable. It grows very
45
46 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
quickly and there may be three or four sowings from
April to July or August, and by these means a succes-
sion of plants will be secured. The plants will be
fit for use in three months from time of sowing the
seed if the land is well done and ample moisture given
in dry weather. There may be supplies well into
December if autumn plants are desired, as by sowing
in August, the plants may be protected in November if
the weather is severe by covering with bracken or by
lifting and placing in a cool root store.
To COOK FENNEL
Fennel is now chiefly used for garnishing mackerel
and certain other fish, or is minced and added to melted
butter as a sauce for these fish. Its dried seeds are also
used in the preparation of a liqueur known as fenouillette.
The leaf-stalks especially of the Finochio variety may
be used either raw, after the manner of Celery, or as
a cooked vegetable, being placed in boiling water and
boiled for about half an hour, or until tender.
GOOD KING HENRY
GOOD KING HENRY (Chenopodium bonus Henrlcus) is
better known as Mercury, and is probably one of
the easiest grown vegetables we have, but not well
known or much grown, though in a few counties
on the eastern coast it is a great favourite ; indeed,
in Lincolnshire there are few gardens of any size but
grow a bed of King Henry, and I have heard it called
Lincolnshire Asparagus. The plant is perennial, a native
of Britain, and is found in many parts of Europe, and is a
very wholesome vegetable, and later on when the top
growth of the plants has become large the young
leaves if gathered make a very good dish and is often
used in place of Spinach. The plant well repays good
cultivation, though I have seen it growing in the same
spot for years, and of course grown thus the leafage is
small. The plant grown in good soil produces shoots ;
these, cut in a young state and tied up in bunches, some-
what resemble Asparagus. If at all old, the skin toughens
quickly and it is then necessary to remove the skin before
cooking. It is in season from April till June, and should
be grown in a warm position, doing best in well drained
soil. Seeds may be sown in a bed in spring and the seed-
lings planted out in rows 2 feet apart and 1 8 inches
between the plants, the quarter having been deeply dug
and manured the previous winter. I have also divided
plants from old beds or roots, selecting the best roots,
and these given new soil soon make headway and give a
large quantity of shoots. It should be more grown for
47
48 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
its value as a spring vegetable, as it comes in at a time
of year when there is a scarcity.
To COOK GOOD KING HENRY
The leaves should be well washed, placed in a stew-
pan with a minimum of water, and boiled for a quarter
of an hour. A little salt should then be added, and the
boiling continued for another five minutes. It should
then be carefully drained and chopped fine. A little
butter, a little less flour, a pinch of pepper, and a pinch
of salt should then be placed in a stewpan and heated
for a few minutes. Add the chopped vegetables and
boil for five minutes longer. The young shoots of the
Good King Henry may be cut from April to June, tied
in bunches, and boiled like asparagus, which they some-
what resemble in taste.
HOP
THE ordinary Hop plant (Humulas lupulus) is not much
used as a vegetable, but it is not an inferior dish if used
in a young state. The shoots when from 4 to 5 inches
long are the parts used, and these are boiled and eaten
like Asparagus. As an article of commerce the dried
Hop is most valuable, and its use in brewing is well
known. It is a perennial plant and indigenous to this
country, and not only valuable in its dried state but
often used in gardens as a screen to hide buildings or
unsightly objects. I need not go into its cultivation as
it is grown on a large scale in the south and western
counties of England.
To BOIL HOPS
The tender young shoots are to be tied into bundles,
placed into boiling salted water and gently boiled for
about twenty minutes. They may be served after the
manner of Asparagus into beurre fondu or other simple
sauce. The cold boiled Hops may be used as a salad.
To FRY HOPS
Prepare as above, and boil for twelve minutes. Drain,
and allow to cool. Then flour them, dip in egg and
bread crumb, and fry in boiling oil. Serve with salt,
n 49
HORSE RADISH
HORSE RADISH (Cochlearia armoracia), A hardy perennial
naturalised in this country, largely used more as an
addition or flavouring for cooked meat than in any
other form ; and though exception may be taken to
it as a vegetable, it is largely used as an article of
food, both raw and in a prepared condition. It is of
much value owing to its good keeping properties, as
roots lifted and stored in sand will keep a long time.
Another point not to be overlooked is that it is anti-
scorbutic and much valued by mariners, as it keeps good
a long time when on long voyages, and it is found to be
of great value. As regards its growth, it will grow
when other things fail, indeed in old gardens it is most
difficult to get rid of it if allowed to remain a number of
years in one place. On the other hand, the roots grown
thus, as regards quality cannot compare with those given
what may be termed proper culture. Properly grown, the
roots are long, thick, straight, and of much better flavour,
being less stringy and more tender. The plant is much
better when grown for a short time in one place, and to
do it justice it likes ample depth and food also. It is
often left to chance, to grow anyhow in one corner of the
garden and dug up as required ; it is far better to plant a
small quarter yearly, destroying the oldest and laying in
for use the best roots. There are great quantities of these
roots imported from abroad. This is not at all necessary,
as I have seen as good results in the Thames Valley as
the best imported roots from Holland, from whence the
London markets receive large consignments. The plant
HORSE RADISH
does best in a rather moist soil, deep and not too
heavy.
The culture for home supplies requires but small space,
and early in the spring is best to make new beds. The
land should be trenched, liberal
layers of manure being placed
under the second spit ; cow
manure is excellent for light
land. The work of trenching
or manuring is best done some
time in advance of planting. One
year's growth will produce good
roots, but by extending the time,
allowing another season, much
finer roots are obtained, but more
astringent. The best time for
planting is early in the spring,
and if the land has been pre-
pared some time, it is best to
use a dibble, making the holes
much deeper than the set. In
selecting the latter, care should
be taken to have clean growths
free of eyes or offsets, as these
cause a forked growth and are not liked. I have
also seen good crops from the crown growth : that is,
the tops are cut with a bit of root attached a few inches
long, all side shoots carefully removed, and they certainly
made a good plant grown thus. When root cuttings are
used, these should be clean, straight pieces, 9 to 12
inches long, and these may be prepared in the autumn
and tied in small bundles, and laid in sand till planting
time. I find this preferable to lifting roots direct out of
the soil and planting. A bed will last for years, but
much better results will follow annual planting if only
on a small scale, and in no case should a bed be left
HORSE RADISH
(One-fifth natural size)
52 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
longer than three years, as the root growth after that
time does not thicken, but divides and gets harder and
less valuable.
To MAKE HORSE RADISH SAUCE
Simmer a small teacupful of finely rasped Horse Radish
in half a pint of broth. Then thicken, by adding the
yolks of two eggs beaten up with a dessert-spoonful of
tarragon vinegar. Add a little pepper and salt and
serve. To make cold Horse Radish sauce, add to a small
teacupful of gratings, half a pint of mayonnaise. Serve
as cold as possible.
LENTILS
THE Lentil (Ervum lens) is an annual plant, a native
of southern Europe, largely cultivated in the warmer
countries and certainly a most valuable vegetable in a
dried state, being exceedingly nutritious and one that
can be eaten by invalids. It is not much cultivated in
this country, at least in private gardens, and though by
many persons the seeds are considered indigestible, a
great deal depends upon the cooking ; indeed this plant
supplies the valuable Revalenta arabica of commerce, a
food of great value. The plant is also much grown
near Paris and the large towns of France, and in that
country is largely used as food. The outer skin is very
hard, and this got rid of, there is no question of its value
as food, as then it is nutritious and may be used for
soups and is cooked in various ways. In habit it some-
what resembles the Pea, to which it is closely allied,
and has the same nourishing properties when the seeds
are ripe and fit for use. I have no knowledge of this
plant being grown for use when in the green state.
I have seen it used in a partially ripe state for soups,
I mean before the pod hardened, but I should prefer
Marrow Peas to Lentils, and doubtless its value is in
its dried state and its long keeping properties. I have
kept seed for three years after gathering. By hanging
up the haulm in a cool, dry shed, the seeds keep
well in the husk or pod. The pod is much shorter
than the ordinary Pea, having a blunt end. The plant
thrives best in a light, warm, or well drained soil, not too
rich, as in the latter it makes a straggling growth and
53
54 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
fails to pod freely. There can be no doubt but that the
best produce is secured from plants given field culture, as
here in an open position the growth is firmer and
a better bloom
secured. In a close
garden with a rich
root run I do not
advise their culture,
though I have seen
good results on
sloping banks, the
seeds being sown
so that the plants
had free exposure.
As regards the cul-
ture for seeds in a
dried state on a
very small scale,
seed is best sown
in the spring, March
or April is the most
suitable month, and
the seed is best
sown in drills 2 feet
apart and not sown
thickly. The stalks
will change colour
as the seeds or pods reach maturity ; the latter change
to a dark colour and may then be pulled up and dried in
the sun for a few days, turning over daily to get rid of
any moisture, taking care to give the haulm a dry, cool
place free of drip when storing. The Lentils may be
thrashed out later when required for use.
To COOK LENTILS
Having been soaked in cold water for eight or ten
hours, Lentils are cooked by placing in cold water and
LARGE YELLOW LENTIL
(One-tenth natural size ; detached branch,
natural size)
LENTILS 55
boiling for two or three hours till tender. For the two
following recipes, readers are indebted to that excellent
book, " Leaves from our Tuscan Kitchen."
LENTILS " ALLA CORONA"
After boiling one pint of Lentils with a bouquet of
sweet herbs, strain them. Meanwhile, mince some ham
with a very little onion and put it to brown with some
butter ; then add one or two ladlefuls of good stock,
boil, and strain. Pour this sauce over the Lentils with a
good piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste, heat them,
and garnish boiled beef or pork with them.
LENTILS "IN ISTUFATO"
Put an earthen pot on the fire, and just before the
water boils throw in one pint of Lentils. As it boils
skim off the Lentils which float to the surface, and con-
tinue to do this until all are taken out ; the few which
remain at the bottom of the pot must be strained through
a sieve. Chop up two anchovies, place them in a sauce-
pan with some pure oil and butter and a little minced
shallot, brown them well, put in the Lentils, and then add
some good stock or soup. When cooked, serve up hot.
To STEW LENTILS
Wash quarter of a pound of Lentils well in several
waters, then put them into a basin with a pint of fresh
cold water. Cover the basin with a plate or piece of
paper and stand overnight. Next day put them into a
saucepan with the water in which they were soaked and
one onion very finely chopped. Cook slowly from one
to one and a half hours or until the Lentils are quite soft,
stirring frequently with a spoon. When ready, take the
lid off the pan and boil for a few minutes, stirring con-
stantly until the mixture is quite thick. Add one ounce
of butter, and season to taste with pepper and salt.
Serve very hot. (Miss Florence Jack's recipe.)
MAIZE
MAIZE or Indian Corn (Zea mays) is a favourite
vegetable in America, and can be cultivated in this
country with great success if the seeds are sown under
glass and planted out in rich soil. It is cultivated in all
parts of the world, but less in Europe than in others ;
doubtless in this country our short summers are not
favourable, but when it is considered what a number of
vegetables we raise under glass, there is no difficulty in
growing very fine cobs of this useful cereal. Some of
the dwarfer varieties are more suitable in this country
than the very large ones, which need a much longer
summer season to mature the growth. By this I do not
mean that the corn must be ripe, as in this state it is not
used as a vegetable, but the grains in the stalk must be
fully developed, though used in a green state. Of late
years our home seedsmen have turned their attention to
the Maize, offering some of the best or most suitable
kinds for culture in this country, and I will note a few of
them. In addition there is the Japanese striped variety,
valuable as a decorative plant, and much used on the
continent, indeed there are few plants that are more
beautiful. A few seasons ago I had twelve distinct
varieties of the vegetable forms sent me from the States
and they were very good indeed, not one failed to make
cobs and some grew very quickly, but I failed to ripen
seed ; our summers do not permit this. The earliest
variety I have grown is the Early Yellow or,Six Weeks,
grown in the States under the name of Quarantain ; this
is a 3 feet variety and ripens well in this country.
56
MAIZE
57
Another very fine early corn is one that the Messrs
Sutton of Reading have imported into this country. This
is hardier and known as Button's Early Dwarf; it
is a very full i
flavoured corn
and makes a
delicious vege-
table. The
White Pyrenean
is also early and
a 3 feet variety,
having whitish
brown seeds, and
is a very com-
pact grower. I
omitted to state
that I have with-
out difficulty
ripened seeds of
the Sutton Early
Dwarf. This is
a great gain, as
it shows its early
maturity and its
great value for
private gardens
in this country.
Other early kinds
are Ad am's Early,
a 3 feet, thick,
short cob, and of good quality. Crosby's Early Sugar,
Early Dwarf Sugar, and Early Tom Thumb are good ; the
latter is a dwarf splendid variety. There are many others
well worth growing, such as Triumphant, Minnesota,
Metropolitan, and More's Concord and Country Gentle-
man ; these latter are favourites in the United States.
58 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
All are of very simple culture, but they need a rich soil,
sun, and abundance of moisture when in active growth.
Seeds sown in March or April will be ready to plant
out the end of May. It is best to sow three seeds or
more in small pots and thin to the strongest. Sown in
frames under glass they soon germinate and are ready
to plant out when large enough. If desired, three plants
may be raised in larger pots and planted in clumps of
three, a yard apart. I prefer single plants and 2 feet
apart all ways. Seed may also be sown in prepared
trenches in the open ground early in May and they will
do well in a favourable season. The plants should have
a sunny position and get ample supplies of water.
To COOK MAIZE
Strip off the husk and stalk, and put the Maize into
boiling water without salt. Boil for ten minutes or a
little more, and serve with butter, salt, and pepper.
Or the Maize may be separated from the cob, boiled
and drained, and then tossed in melted butter with a
little salt and pepper. Chopped parsley or grated
cheese may be added just before serving. :
MOUNTAIN SPINACH
BRACH atrip/ex hortensis, commonly called Mountain
Spinach, a hardy annual, a native of Tartary. The leaves
are used like Spinach, but it is not equal in flavour and
soon runs to seed, so that frequent sowings are necessary.
This plant will grow in any soil, but the leaves are much
better, being more succulent, when grown in a good soil.
There are four varieties in cultivation, the white, the
green, and a pale and a dark red. The varieties do not differ
much in quality, but I think the green varieties the best
for garden uses. Seed sown in February will give leaves
in May, or monthly sowings may be made of a succession
if desired. The seed should be sown in drills 2 feet
apart and thinned to 1 8 inches in the row. It is best
kept free from seeding by picking off the flower spikes.
To STEW SPINACH
Spinach having been washed in cold water and dried by
swinging the leaves round in the air, may be stewed in
the following way :
Place it in a pan of boiling water, whence remove it
at the end of four minutes. Throw the Spinach next
into cold water and well dry it in the colander. Chop
it up moderately finely, and place in a stewpan with salt,
pepper, and butter (half an ounce to the pound). Place
over the fire and stir till the butter is melted. Add a
little stock (a teacupful to the pound), and allow to
simmer for ten minutes. Add a little lemon juice and
59
60 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
serve. Spinach cooked in this way may be spread on
toast and surmounted by poached eggs.
Spinach may be served whole by placing it, without
water, in a vessel surrounded by boiling water for about
twenty minutes. Dry with a warm cloth and serve.
NASTURTIUM
NASTURTIUM (Tropceolum, majus, minus and tuberosum).
There are two varieties of the ordinary Nasturtium used as
vegetables, the large form of Majus and the smaller kind
Minus : the one is more common than the other, indeed
the larger variety may be seen in most gardens being
grown for ornament or for use in salads and pickles. Both
kinds, Majus and Minus, are natives of Peru, and are
perennial, but here they are treated as annuals, and some
of the more recently introduced varieties, which are
doubtless selections from the older forms, are really
very beautiful garden plants. My note more concerns
their value as vegetables than as salad plants. For
the latter purpose, leaves and flowers are used, but
it is the fruits which are doubtless more useful, and
these are largely used when pickled in vinegar and by
many persons are preferred to Capers, which they very
much resemble. In their native regions, where the
plants grow very quickly, the green portion of the plants
is at times used as a vegetable and the points of the
shoots eaten for salads. Their culture is most simple,
but the plant does best in a light soil with a warm
aspect, and though they may be grown in almost any
corner of the garden, they, well repay good culture if
grown for their fruit. Seed is best sown in the spring,
and if grown to stakes like Peas they bear heavy crops
and flower and continue to form fruits till cut down by
frost. Grown in rows, at least 4 feet should be allowed
between the rows for the first named Majus, as it obtains
a height of 8 feet or more, and the plants delight in
61
62 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
abundant supplies of water in dry weather. The
tuberous variety is very distinct and but little grown in this
country. The edible portion is the tuber that forms
at the root, not the fruit, as in the first named varieties.
I have seen this variety grown in a few gardens, but it has
a very peculiar flavour when cooked ; indeed some may
and do like them who have
travelled abroad, but they
certainly will never become
common in our gardens, as
the weight of crop does not
make them profitable. This
plant is a perennial and a
native of Peru and the tubers
produced are showy, being
yellow and red and not un-
like a Potato, but usually
smaller at one end. In South
America this is a favourite
dish, but I think much care
must be expended upon their
cooking, and in the countries
referred to they are frozen
after being cooked and are
then a favourite dish, indeed
they are a standing dish in
hot weather and much sought
after as a light refreshment. The culture is simple.
The plant is a climber and requires support. It is
best grown from eyes lik% the Potato, as one good-
sized tuber will make several sets. In dry soils it may
be allowed to grow on the soil, but in others, stakes
should be given. It requires a fairly light, rich soil, and
it is best planted in the spring, the sets being placed 4
feet apart, and it is fit for use in October, as at that time
the leaves will begin to turn colour. I have seen this
TUBEROUS-ROOTED NASTURTIUM
( Tubers, half natural size)
NASTURTIUM 63
variety grown well in pots and frames, in cold wet situa-
tion, and grown thus it is an easy matter to feed. The
tubers keep for some time when quite ripe if lifted and
given cool storage in sand or fibre, and may be had in
season from October till March, and for seed purposes it
is well to keep them on shelves, but frost proof.
To PICKLE NASTURTIUM SEEDS
Gather the seeds whilst green, wash them, dry them,
and put them in bottles. Boil together a pint of vinegar,
teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of peppercorns, and
two chillies. When cold, pour it over the seeds, and
cork and seal. This is fit for use in six weeks.
NETTLE
THE common Nettle is not often used as a vegetable
in this country, but it is not at all bad if gathered
in a young state I mean before the growths get
hardened and become
harsh and flavourless. The
plant is more used in
country places than in
towns ; indeed I fear many
town-dwellers would hesi-
tate to collect or cook the
plant, but it would not be
refused as a vegetable by
many who did not know
what it was. It is also
largely employed in mak-
ing a wholesome drink,
known as nettle tea or
beer. As regards its cul-
ture, unfortunately it is
too common and difficult to get rid of when thor-
oughly established, and therefore cultivation is out of
the question.
To COOK NETTLES
The young tender shoots should be well washed,
dried, and tied in neat bundles. They should then be
steamed till tender generally for about twenty minutes
and then served with beurre Jondu or other simple sauce.
64
CHINA-GRASS SILVERY NETTLE
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH (Tetragona expansa) is quite dis-
tinct from the ordinary Spinach, but so valuable a summer
vegetable that I have included it in this book. I noted
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH
(.One-twelfth natural size ; detached branch, one-fourth
natural size)
its value in vol. vii. to extend the season when other
kinds fail, but I did not go into cultural details, and these
I will make as brief as possible. This, as its name im-
plies, is a native of New Zealand and was brought into
cultivation by Sir I. Banks, and is valuable in hot summer
E 6 5
66 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
or in dry hot soils where the ordinary plants fail. It is
useful as a vegetable in a boiled state and valuable for
colouring purposes. It likes a light, rich soil, and ample
space, 3 feet between the plants. We sow under glass in
small pots and plant out early in June. It may also be
sown in the open the middle of May, but sown under
glass the plant gives earlier produce and at a time it is
more valuable. It is best grown on the flat on a south
border, and grown thus will give a supply till cut down
by frost.
SOME ONIONS
THE Potato Onion is not largely cultivated in some
parts of the kingdom ; in others it is a great favourite,
especially in small gardens, and more so in the southern
part of the kingdom. It is called the Underground
Onion also, and as regards culture it somewhat resembles
the Shallot, but is distinct. All the three varieties here
described are different from the ordinary kinds, and they
are useful as they rarely fail. The small bulbs of the
Potato variety are planted singly, and in warm situations,
such as Devon or Cornwall, it is usually the rule to
plant on the shortest day and take up the crop on the
longest ; but this rule does not hold good in heavy land
or cold situations, as March would be early enough to
plant and August to lift. The bulbs are planted in
well-manured land, in rows 1 8 inches apart and half
that distance between the plants ; the soil is made fairly
firm previous to planting, and the bulbs are pressed
down in the soil and made firm. The plant or old
bulb forms clusters of young bulbs round the old one,
and when extra fine roots are desired, it is a good plan
to place spent manure between the rows or feed with
liquid manure or a quick acting fertiliser. By mulching
or earthing up when the growths are a good size, the
plant is induced to form better clusters, and at that time
there should be no lack of moisture till the young bulbs
are full sized, and only withheld as they begin to ripen.
When stored they will remain sound a long time if
placed in a cool airy store. This variety is not raised
from seed, and it is more valuable for early supplies
than later, as the other varieties are then more plentiful.
68 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
The Egyptian or Tree Onion, often called the Garden
Rocambole, throws up stems from the bulb which is
planted, and on this is produced a number of small bulbs
at the top of the main stem ; these being in a cluster,
they are much liked for pickling. The plant often
produces nearly a dozen small onions at the top of the
stems when well grown. These when ripe keep for
months if suspended from a roof in a cool place. The
cultivation is simple. The plants may be propagated from
the bulbs formed in the soil or from those on the stem
placed in shallow drills early in the spring, as advised
for the Potato Onion, but less room will suffice for the
bulbs planted from the stem, 6 inches apart being
sufficient. The growths need supports as the Onions
. form, and the plant matures its growth much better
when supported. They like a rich, light soil, and at the
planting it is necessary to make them firm in the soil as
often birds pull up the loose bulbs.
The Welsh Onion is the Allium pistulosum, a
herbaceous perennial, a native of Siberia, and very hardy.
There are two distinct varieties, the red and white, and
it differs from the common Onion as it never bulbs ; the
roots are long and tapering, with strong fibres, and its
stems and leaves are hollow. Its value in the garden
is mostly to furnish young growths for salads in the
spring, and for stews and soups in a green state. Used in
this way it is liked for its mild flavour, and as it starts
into growth much earlier than our garden varieties, being
so much hardier, it is useful. Sown in July or August
it will give a spring supply ; sown broadcast a small bed
will suffice. We grow it near the herbs ; it makes a good
border plant.
To BAKE ONIONS
Take any of the milder flavoured Onions of good size
and, having removed the outer coats, boil them for about
SOME ONIONS 69
forty-five minutes in water. Dry the Onions with a
cloth, place them on a baking dish, surmount each with
a small piece of butter, cover with buttered paper, and
bake for an hour. Serve with beurre fondu, or plain
butter. Season with salt and pepper.
To STEW ONIONS
Peel them and place them in stock (two quarts to six
large Onions) seasoned with salt and pepper. Allow to
simmer until they are quite tender. Reduce the stock,
pour it over the Onions, and serve.
ONIONS AND CHEESE
Take some large Spanish Onions, skin them, and boil
them until they are quite soft. Drain them in a
colander, and then pass them through a sieve. Place
the mashed Onions in a pan together with (to each Onion)
an ounce of butter, an ounce of grated cheese, and a
little pepper and salt. Allow the mixture to simmer
for a few minutes, stirring the while, and then serve.
Instead of placing the pulped Onions in a stewpan,
they may be placed with the butter, pepper, and salt,
and a little stock or milk (two tablespoonfuls to each
Onion) in a pie-dish, the cheese being grated over the
surface, and place in the oven till baked a nice brown.
STUFFED ONIONS
This is a recipe given by Mrs de Salis.
Peel a couple of fair-sized Portugal Onions, parboil
and drain them ; scoop out the centre, but keeping the
Onions whole. Chop up the inside of the Onion with a
little meat and a little fat bacon ; add some bread-
crumbs, a sprig of parsley, and a small piece of lemon
peel, chopped fine ; add pepper and salt to taste ; then
70 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
beat it all up to a paste with a well-beaten egg and stuff
the Onions with it, dredge them with flour, and fry them
a nice brown ; then place them in a stewpan with a rich
brown gravy to cover them, and let them stew gently
for two hours.
OXALIS CRENATA
THERE are two distinct forms of Oxalis used for vege-
table purposes ; the one named above is a tuberous
rooted plant, a native of Peru, but introduced into this
country in 1829. There are several varieties of the
Oxalis grown in the country named under the name of
Oka and some of these are not of much value here, re-
quiring warmer soils than ours. Deppi, the other
variety, I will describe later on ; it is not so much liked as
Crenata. Many persons would not consider these
vegetables equal to our own ; others, who have lived in
the countries named, have a better opinion of their merits.
They possess a peculiar acid taste, but the acidity is re-
moved by care in cooking^ indeed many of our own
vegetables which are strongly flavoured would be much
better if the water in which they are boiled were
changed when about three parts boiled. The tubers of
the Oxalis are produced freely and are, when well grown,
of the size of a large walnut, having a smooth skin and
eyes in profusion, and a yellow skin in one case and a dull
reddish one in the other. The tubers are long and pointed,
somewhat like the Chinese Artichoke. The plant is
extensively cultivated in the temperate parts of Bolivia
and at times is exported to this country, but I fear the
sale is not a large one, and our cooking deters many buy-
ing them, as they need more than ordinary care. In the
countries named they are cooked by steam, being placed on
straw beds, which keeps the tubers from contact with the
water. In Bolivia they are exposed to the sun for some
days. By exposure, much of the acidity is removed, the
7*
72 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
tuber being much sweeter and more floury, like Potatoes.
The tubers command a much better price than the Potato,
and at La Pax are largely cultivated ; the soil being most
fertile, they grow freely. At Lima the leaves and tops of
the plant are used as a salad, and even in this country I
have seen it used in the same way as Spinach or Sorrel ;
indeed it somewhat resembles the last named plant, as it
contains a considerable quantity of oxalic acid. The
young stems of this plant, also others of the species,
TUBERS OF OKA-PLANT, OXAL1S CRENATA
(One-third natural size)
have been used in tarts ; but I should add, used thus the
tarts would need a lot of sweetening or flavouring. The
culture is peculiar ; the aim is to get as many tubers as
possible from the stems. The soil must be light, rich,
and warm, and the tuber is propagated like the Potato,
leaving an eye to each tuber. Cuttings also take root
freely if placed in a warm bed in March or April and
planted out in May and June in rows 3 feet apart and 2
feet between the plants. The shoots are best earthed
up as growth is made, and this is continued several times
till the early autumn September when the tubers begin
to form. They will be ready for use in November and
may be kept good for months if taken up and stored in
sand in a cool place, kept quite dry, as damp or frost soon
decays the tubers. The plant does not thrive in wet or
OXALIS CRENATA 73
heavy soil ; and though the plant in good soil grows freely,
I mean the top growth is ample, the tubers are not
numerous unless the position is favourable and the
summer most favourable. The best position should be
given the plants, and at the start much time is gained by
potting up the tuber and starting under glass.
I have referred to the other variety, Deppi, a perennial
plant and a native of Mexico introduced much at the
same time as the first named variety, but this species is
more used in a green state than the other, the young
leaves being dressed like Sorrel. They are also used in
soups and boiled as a vegetable with lamb or veal. The
roots of this variety are fleshy, tapering, white, and clear,
and the crowns or tops of the roots have a number of
small scaly bulbs from which the plants are produced in
abundance. This variety by many persons is preferred
to the former as it is less acid, and when properly served
makes a tender, succulent dish, easy to digest and a good
dish for invalids. The roots when full grown are 3 to
4 inches long and I to 2 inches in thickness, and the
plant needs a rich root run, indeed any old spent manure
or decayed vegetable mould will grow it well, but it needs
much moisture and prefers a southern aspect. In a heavy
clay soil it makes poor progress ; grown thus it runs along
the surface and does not form its elongated or bulbous
root. It comes freely from seed, but it is best grown
from the off-sets or bulbs, these planted late in April.
Twelve inches between the rows and half that distance in
the row will be sufficient, as it will be seen. This variety
is very different in growth from Crenata. The bulbs at
planting should be made firm and only lightly covered
with soil, and they do well if given a mulch of decayed
manure in dry summer. The plants grow till cut down
by frost, when they should be lifted, stored in sand, the
crown growths removed and the bulbs stored till planting
time.
74 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
To COOK OXALIS TUBERS
The tubers should be exposed to the sun for a few
days, and may then be boiled after the manner of Chinese
Artichokes. If sun-dried for some weeks, the tubers
may be eaten uncooked. The leaves of this plant may
be cooked after the manner of Sorrel.
HAMBURG PARSLEY
THE top growth of this plant is much like the ordinary
garnishing Parsley, not much curled, but the edible part of
the root is like a small or blunt Parsnip. The roots are
very fleshy and of a peculiar flavour, and well worth
culture in
gardens where
variety is liked,
as this root is
in season from
November to
April. As with
most roots the
land should not
have been re-
cently manured,
as this causes
a rank growth
and splitting up
of the roots
into sections.
What is required is land deeply dug which was well
manured for a previous crop. For roots of any kind
that go down into the earth deep cultivation is a necessity.
The best roots I ever grew of this plant was in land that
had just been cleared of Celery, the last-named plant
having been highly fed, and the trenching and moulding
up just suited the Parsley roots. Seeds should be sown
in March in drills 1 8 inches apart and the plants thinned
to half that distance. The after-culture is simple, merely
75
EARLY HAMBURG PARSLEY
(One -fifth natural size)
76 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
keeping the crop free of weeds. The roots will be
ready for use in November, as then they will be full
grown, but they make a nice vegetable if used in
September before they are at their full size. The bulk
of the roots are best lifted and stored in November
in a cool store in the same way as Beetroots, and will
remain good till the spring. Mere size should not be
aimed at, but fleshy medium-sized roots, and these will
have superior flavour to the large coarser ones.
To COOK HAMBURG PARSLEY
The roots should be cooked as Celeriac.
PATIENCE
PATIENCE (Rumex patientia) is by no means a popular
plant in this country, but one that will grow when
Spinach fails. It will grow in almost any soil, but pre-
fers one that is moist. A hardy perennial and a native
of Italy, in that country
it is still a favourite on
account of its free growth
and the enormous quan-
tities of leafage it gives.
When allowed to run wild
or to ripen seed, there is a
great difficulty in getting
rid of this plant ; indeed
I would not advise its cul-
ture unless it is used in a
young state and the plants
thrown away when they
begin to form seed ; cut
over frequently, the plants
throw out a large number
of young leaves. It is
easily raised from seed sown in the spring, and there
should be ample space 2 feet between the rows and 12
inches between the plants. There should be no delay
in cutting down the seed stems, as when these form the
plant will not furnish leaves freely, the stems being
robust and growing to several feet in height. The edible
portion is the young leaves, and these are used like
Spinach. Older writers advise a fourth part of Sorrel to
77
HERB PATIENCE, OR PATIENCE DOCK
(One -thirtieth natural size)
78 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
be boiled with the Patience, and then there will be a pala-
table dish. In France the leaves are used as a substitute
for Sorrel, as this plant starts into growth much earlier,
and when young is not at all an inferior vegetable. The
leaves are also used in salads in the early part of the year
when other green vegetables are scarce. The plant may
be increased by division annually ; and grown thus it
gives an earlier supply than from seed.
To COOK PATIENCE
The leaves should be cooked as Sorrel.
CONGO POTATO
THERE are three varieties of Potatoes that are quite
distinct from our ordinary garden forms, and the one
most notable is the Black Congo, though this is not much
grown in this country. This variety cannot be called
profitable as an article of food when grown along with
POTATO V1TELOTTE
the ordinary kinds, but it is useful in decorative cookery,
and the flavour is not inferior. This variety has a black
skin and dark flesh. It may be planted in the spring,
but requires a well-drained, warm soil. To be served
whole the tubers must not be pared but boiled with the
skins intact, and when cooked the outer skin is to be
removed with a piece of flannel.
79
FIR APPLE POTATO
THIS is distinct, and the growth when fully developed is
like a cluster of Fir Apples hence its name. It is in my
opinion, much superior in flavour to the Congo, and when
well cooked makes an attractive dish. The tubers should
be cooked whole and not be broken in the cooking. The
culture is much the same as advised for the Congo, but
the Fir Apple Potato will grow in colder positions,
though it well repays a well-drained soil. There are
two varieties : the White, which is a smaller kind, and the
large Red. They resemble each other in flavour, and it
may not be necessary to grow both kinds, the last named
being best in loamy soil. They are best planted in April or
early in May, and will not require too much space. The
tubers will be ready in autumn, and should then be lifted
and given cool storage in sand or soil.
SWEET POTATO
THIS is a great favourite in America, and a recent
writer in The Garden, vol. Ixiii. p. 191, gives the
following extract in reply to a previous note of mine
on the value of this root in South Africa : " The New
York market
growers prefer
a dry and mealy
Potato such as
the growers
about Vine-
land, New
Jersey, pro-
duce in the
highest pos-
sible quality,
but our South-
ern friends pre-
fer one that
is moist and
sugary, with a
tendency to exude syrup while cooking. As for the
methods of sowing they are legion. Baked as suggested
by Mr Wythes they are excellent ; better still when
cooked in the drippings under roasting meat, like York-
shire pudding. Roast possum, with Sweet Potatoes
cooked in the gravy, forms the acme of culinary delight
to the Southern negro. Plainly boiled the Sweet Potato
is satisfying and nutritious. The skin should be left on
until cooked, then removed before sending to the
ROSE DE MALAYA SWEET POTATO
(One-eighth natural size)
82 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
table. Boiled and cut into slices, then fried brown,
the Sweet Potato forms a nice breakfast dish, and is also
admirable as an accompaniment for roast poultry, especially
duck. A rich baked pudding is made from Sweet
Potatoes ; and the same vegetable in the Southern States
takes the place of pumpkin in making pies. They are
also made into biscuits (I mean buns according to the
speech of the home country), and are slowly baked with
butter and sugar until glazed with a rich caramel sauce.
I am sure that English people who once acquire a
taste for Sweet Potatoes would welcome this addition
to their tables ; though, unlike green Corn, which every
foreigner loves upon first introduction, a taste for
them must be cultivated." Any of the ways in which
ordinary Potatoes can be cooked are applicable to Sweet
Potatoes. See " The Book of Vegetables."
QUINOA
QUINOA (Chenopodium quinoa) is an annual plant, a native
of Peru. It is a large growing plant, having stems
4 to 6 feet high and large pointed leaves of a woolly
nature. It is rarely grown in this country, but in
America its seeds are much employed in cookery. In
the mountainous parts of the Cordilleras the Quinoa was
at the time of the Conquest by the Spaniards much
used, being the chief farinaceous seed used for food,
and travellers inform us that now it forms with the
Potato the common food by those who cannot afford
more expensive foods. The seeds are the edible
portion used, and these are largely used in soups and
made into bread, and the latter is considered to be
digestible ; also when fermented a kind of beer is made,
the seed being mixed with millet ; and they are largely
used for feeding poultry. It will be seen that the plant
is valuable in the countries named ; moreover, in addi-
tion to the seeds, the young tender leaves are gathered
and cooked like Spinach. In this country the seeds
are not much sought after, as they have a peculiar
acrid taste, and so far I have never heard of anyone
getting rid of this bitter flavour no matter how the seeds
were cooked. It may be that owing to the plants requiring
a longer season to perfect their growth in this country
this bitter taste is the result, but as the same thing
occurs in France, it appears that the Quinoa is not at
its best grown in certain soils. There are several
varieties of this plant, and it is the white one that is
used for food, the others have red and black seeds,
83
8 4 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
also different coloured leaves. Most of them seed freely
and are vigorous growers. The plant making a rapid
growth, 4 to 6 feet, and being an annual, it will be seen
that much space is required to grow it properly ; and
it is well to give a good holding soil, and a warm, well-
drained one in addition, as though the plant will grow in
almost any position, it will not ripenits seed in thiscountry,
unless grown as advised. The best results I have seen
have been from plants sown under glass in March and
planted but in May or June ; that is, given similar culture
to our vegetable Marrow. Another plan is to sow in
small pots and place in a cold frame, and to plant out
when a few inches high. Seed may be sown in the
open in May in drills 2 to 3 feet apart and the plants
when large enough thinned to half that distance in the
row. The plant raised under glass gives a much better
return. The points of the shoots should be taken out
when in full growth to induce side shoots to form. The
leaves may be used as Spinach, and there should be ample
supplies of moisture given in dry, hot weather. The
plant makes its growth from June to September, and at
the last-named month it perfects its seeds. These are
then harvested, dried, and stored in a cool place. When
the plant is only grown for its leaves, less space may be
given.
To COOK QUINOA
The leaves are cooked as Spinach. The seeds, having
been boiled, may be used in soups and cakes as flavourers.
RAMPION
RAMPION (Campanula rapunculus) is a biennial plant, a
native of Britain. It is not largely used. The roots,
which are fleshy and white, are used in a boiled state
and in salads ; the
leaves also are used
in winter salads. The
plant prefers a light
soil, ample moisture,
and a shady situation,
and in dry, thin, poor
soils the plants have
a tendency to run to
seed, so that it is well
to give good culture
and not sow too early
for winter supplies.
May is quite early
enough, indeed I have
got excellent roots
from July sowings.
The plants should be
sown in drills 12 inches
apart, and the seed-
lings thinned to half
that distance or even less ; and owing to the
seeds being very small, many growers sow broad-
cast, and thin the plants to 3 or 4 inches apart,
merely raking the seeds in when sown, and making
the surface quite level. Why I advise drills for
V.
(One-third natural size)
86 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
most vegetable seeds is that during the growth of
the plant the soil or surface is more easily kept free
of weeds, as by using a small Dutch hoe the work
is done quickly. In the case of very small seeds
that are difficult to handle, it is an easy matter to mix
sand with the seed and thus ensure even distribution
in the drills and prevent crowding of the seedlings.
The roots are fit for use in the autumn, and the plant
may be wintered in its growing quarters, the only
drawback being that in severe weather it may be difficult
to get at the plants, therefore cool storage will be
advisable with plenty of soil or sand placed between
the roots. If the plant is much liked, two sowings may
be made, in April and June.
To COOK RAMPION
Treat the roots after the manner of Skirret, boiling
till tender. Serve with melted butter or sauce
Hollandaise.
RHUBARB
RHUBARB (Rheum hybridum) is among the most use-
ful of plants, and certainly one that cannot be called
rare. My excuse for including it in this book is that
it did not find a place amongst the ordinary vegetables
and it is too valuable to omit.
There has been more interest taken in the cultivation
of this plant of late years, some valuable introductions
have been distributed, and there is a great breadth
of land occupied by these roots near London and the
larger towns in the kingdom ; indeed from Christmas
to June, by forced produce and the open ground supply,
a large trade is done, and the leaf stalks that are the
edible portion both in a blanched and natural state
make an excellent substitute for fruit in tarts, and a
delicious preserve, and by no means an inferior wine.
The plant will be found in all gardens, large and small,
but it is not always given the best cultivation. It is a
native of Central Asia, and has been cultivated in this
country for over three hundred years. It does best in
good soil and well repays for food given, but clayey or
wet soils are not suitable. It is propagated readily
by division, and doubtless that is a good way to get a
true stock of any good kind, but I have been very
successful with seed, and I find it comes remarkably
true from seed, and excellent produce may be secured
in less than two years from the date of sowing, that is
the plants the second year produce freely. The plant
requires a deeply dug, well manured soil, and when
raised by seed, April is the best time to sow, and by
8 7
88 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
division just before growth is active in the early spring ;
each portion of root detached from the plant should have
a crown or bud and the roots should be placed below the
surface, so that the crown is quite covered. One good
sized plant will make a
number of roots when
carefully divided, and
these should be made firm
at the planting by tread-
ing during the work,
when the soil is in suit-
able condition. No stalks
should be taken the first
year, and in dry weather
supplies of food in the
shape of liquid manure
would be well repaid.
In all gardens of any size
it is advantageous to
make new quarters every
two or three years, and
many growers force the
older roots, but I find
{Ore-seventh natural size) much better results Will
follow if two or three
year old roots are forced ; the leaf-stalks, though
less numerous, are much stronger, and that is a great
gain. In planting, ample space should be given the
plant, at least 3 feet between, and 4 feet between
the rows, and in the late spring and early summer
the seed stems must be cut as soon as they appear ;
but some of the newer kinds, such as the Sutton
Rhubarb, bear very little seed and this is an advantage.
Few plants force more readily, and this usually com-
mences in November and is continued up to the time
the open ground crop is ready. The old plan of covering
RHUBARB STALKS
RHUBARB 89
over with pots and warm litter is good, as it gives
better flavoured stalks than from lifted roots forced in
strong heat.
I have referred to seedlings and their value, and we
raise plants every year for forcing in this way. The
seed is sown in April each year, and the very early
kinds are selected, but the well-known Champagne
comes true from seed. The seed is sown in land
well manured and the surface made fine, in drills 2
feet apart. Sow very thinly, and when large enough
thin to 12 inches apart. The next season every
other root may be removed and planted in good land,
given more space, or the whole may be taken up and
transplanted, and will then make good forcing plants
the next autumn. If not intended to force, the first plan
is good, but in all cases there must be room allowed
for the plant to develop.
For forcing purposes we usually use the Early Scarlet,
or Royal Albert. Myatt's Linnaeus is an excellent
variety, as also is the Paragon ; the latter is large and
very prolific, and for general purposes the well-known
Victoria is an excellent variety. I have referred to the
Sutton; this may be classed as a superior form of
Victoria, earlier than that variety, with a bright red
stalk, the colour of which is well retained after the
cooking ; the stalks are large and of splendid quality.
Recently there has been a small form of Rhubarb
introduced from the Colonies, and this differs from
ours in that it starts so early into growth in the autumn
that *it requires no forcing whatever, but to prevent
damage by frost it needs cover of some kind. It is sent
out by several firms ; it is also grown in the United
States, so that it will soon become well known.
Another new Rhubarb is Daw's Champion, a very
early and good form, a grand forcer. It will be seen
that there is a wide selection of really good kinds.
ROCAMBOLE
ROCAMBOLE (A Ilium scorodoprasum) is a plant closely
allied to the Onion and Garlic, and is much used in
cookery where the last named plant is disliked, the
Rocambole being much milder, and when used in a green
state, more delicate in flavour. The plant is a hardy
perennial, a native of Denmark and not so much grown
in this country as on the continent. The bulbs when
matured are not so large as well grown Garlic, and these
are produced in a cluster at the root. The stem growth
is about two feet. The stems also produce a number of
small , bulbs, and from these the plant is reproduced
freely, but those at the root give much the best
plants, if divided and planted in February or March.
Much the same culture should be given as to Shallots
or Garlic. They do best in good soil, planted in rows 2
feet apart, 6 inches between the bulbs, and placed at
least 2 inches under the soil, each bulb being pressed
well into the soil at planting, as they have a tendency to
lift out of the ground when forming root at the base.
The after culture is very simple, merely keeping the
ground free of weeds, and as the leaves begin to decay
the bulbs should be taken up and dried in the sun, then
bunched together and stored in a cool shed. They keep
well if suspended from a roof which is damp proof. In
suitable soil and position, I have seen these plants
wintered in the open. Grown thus they make a very
early growth in the spring, and when required to use in
a green state this mode of culture answers well.
SCOLYMUS
I HAVE seen this plant grown in this country under the
name of Golden Thistle doubtless that appellation applied
to its golden coloured flower heads. These are large, and
GOLDEN THISTLE
(One-twelfth natural size ; root, one-ihird natural size)
the growths attain a height of 3 feet. The genus is a small
one. There are three species, and the variety, Hispani-
cus, or the Spanish, is the form grown as a vegetable; it is
often known as the vegetable Oyster plant, as the flavour
9*
92 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
of the roots is supposed somewhat to resemble oysters.
On the continent, especially in Spain, the roots are
cultivated in the same way as the Scorzonera, and are
considered to be quite as good. The leaves and stalks of
the plants are also eaten as Cardoons by the people of
Salamanca, but they should be well grown to be equal to
the Cardoon. The flowers also are used for various
purposes, one being for the adulteration of Saffron. This
variety is biennial and easily cultivated, and may be in-
creased by division or grown from seeds. If the latter, they
are best sown in the early spring and when large enough
transplanted into deeply dug land, as though the plant
will thrive in almost any soil when grown for use as a
vegetable, it. repays good culture and should be planted
in ground that was well manured for a previous crop, as
if recently manured the roots fork or split up badly.
Seed is best sown in March or April in rows 2 feet apart
and the plants thinned to 1 8 inches apart in the row.
The roots will be ready by the autumn, and may be lifted
and stored or left in the soil and used as required.
To COOK SCOLYMUS
The roots may be cooked in any of the ways in which
Salsify is cooked. See the recipes given in " The Book
of Asparagus."
SCURVY GRASS
SCURVY GRASS (Cochkaria officlnalis) is a hardy annual,
a native of this country, being found growing on the
sea shores often among sand and stones, or on shallow
rocks with por-
tions of sand
and earth to
root into.
Many years
ago this plant
was a much
greater favour-
ite in kitchen
gardens than
at the present
day, and as
regards its
value as a
vegetable it is
of course in-
ferior to many
others. But
it should not
altogether be
lost sight of,
as for many years it was considered a valuable
addition to salads, and in a fresh state it possesses
valuable medicinal properties as it is stimulant, diuretic,
and a powerful antiscorbutic, and for these qualities it is
a valuable salad plant and readily grown. It is not a large
93
SCURVY GRASS
{One-tenth natural size)
94 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
grower, the plants being dwarf. The leaves are heart
shaped, shining, roundish, and the plants produce small
white flowers freely in May and June. It is best sown
in a moist or shady position. For years I grew this
plant for salad purposes under the partial shade of a
large Medlar tree, and there was an ample supply of
leafage, if the plants were given an occasional watering
with salt mixed in the water. Sown broadcast in April,
and the young plants thinned when large enough to
handle and then kept free from weeds, there will be
ample cutting. Used as a vegetable it is best sown
thickly and cut over like Spinach ; but I fear it will not
find much favour owing to its peculiar flavour, though as
an addition to salads it is worth room in most gardens.
SKIRRET
SKIRRET (Sium sisarum) is a plant cultivated for its
roots, rarely seen in British gardens. It is a perennial
plant, a native of China and Japan, and in those countries
it is esteemed
and much used
for food. The
edible portion,
the root, has a
very peculiar
taste and it takes
some time to get
used to it, but
this occurs with
other vege-
tables. The
roots are pre-
pared in the
same way as
Scorzonera and
Salsify, but I
do not think
them equal as
regards quality
to those last
named. The plant is raised mostly from seed, but it
may also be propagated much in the same way as Seakale,
that is by root cuttings, but these must have a bud or
eye, and at the planting the cutting must be placed under
the soil.
95
(One-twenty-fifth natural size ; detached roots,
one-eighth natural size)
96 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
Seed sown at the end of March or early in April is the
best mode of culture, but the seed will not germinate
freely unless the soil is moist, so that it is necessary to
give water in dry weather. For that reason I would
advise sowing in rather deep drills 1 8 inches apart,
and thinning the seedlings to 9 inches in the drill.
The plant likes light, rich, deep soil, and needs ample
moisture during growth, such as liquid manure or
fertilisers. In October the roots will be large enough
for use, or even earlier in good land. Later on the roots
should be taken up and stored in the same way as
Salsify. The seeds are obtained from the plants the
second year they are in flower in July or later. The
plants left in the soil will show flowers earlier, but these
are of no value. The roots are much divided, or spread
out, and need care in lifting.
To BOIL SKIRRET
To boil Skirret, a dozen roots should be first well
washed and scraped and at once put into a basin of cold
water with an egg-cupful of vinegar in it. In five
minutes place the roots in an enamelled stewpan con-
taining a boiling mixture of half a pint of water, quarter
of a pint of milk, two slices of lemon, a little salt, and
half an ounce of butter. Boil until quite tender, which
will usually be in about an hour's time or a little more.
Take out the Skirret and well drain it. It may be
served whole, melted butter, beurre Jondu, or sauce
Hollandaise accompanying it in a sauceboat. Or the
boiled roots may be cut into inch lengths, and a layer
of them placed at the bottom of a fireproof pan, seasoned
with pepper and salt, and covered with a little bechamel
sauce, this arrangement of layers being repeated till the
pan is full. Over all sprinkle grated Cheshire, Cheddar,
or Parmesan, and having covered it with very small
pieces of butter, heat for a few minutes in the oven.
SORREL
THERE are several kinds of Sorrel, and they are
mostly perennials, the one that is probably best known
being the Common Garden Sorrel that is so plentiful in
fields. There are others somewhat similar. The Belleville
is a cultivated French variety, and an excellent garden
Sorrel. This is superior to our common form, and there is
another of French origin having blistered leaves. This
latter is grown largely on the continent, as it is the last
to run to seed ; the common British form is bad in this
respect. Tbe Roman or Round-leaved Sorrel (Rumex
scutatus) is a hardy perennial much grown abroad ; this
has a trailing stem, and is from 12 to 1 8 inches in height,
having heart-shaped leaves, glaucous and smooth, which
are more acid than those of the other species, and this
by many persons is much liked, as for flavouring or in a
cooked state as a green vegetable it makes a more
palatable dish. There is also the Mountain Sorrel of
the French (R. montanus] and the Oseille Vierge, a
smaller form, and these do not run so quickly to seed as
our varieties. The leaves of the last named have a pale
green colour and are less acid, but the Oseille Vierge
verte liste is the reverse in this respect, and the Green
Mountain variety has larger leafage of a dark green
colour, which are produced earlier in the spring and is
the last to run to seed, so that it is a desirable garden
variety. The Messrs Vilmorin of Paris give the
larger Belleville as the best variety, and there is no
doubt but that it is a good garden variety, though there
are others on the continent under diverse names that are
well worth attention. At one time I gave this vegetable
G 97 -
98 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
a trial, and had over a dozen named kinds, British and
foreign ; some were very much alike, but the best was
certainly the Belleville and the Green Mountain. The
chief difficulty with some of the small forms is their
tendency to run to seed, and when this takes place the
plant does not furnish good leaves, so that it will be
seen the more it is cut and used the better for the plant,
and in all cases the seed stems should be removed as
COMMON BROAD-LEAVED FRENCH SORREL
(One-sixth natural size)
soon as they appear. At one time Sorrel was grown in
the large market gardens near London much more than
at the present day. This is not surprising, as with
more gardens the tendency is to grow what may be
termed popular vegetables, and Sorrel requires more care
in gathering and packing than many other vegetables.
It was much used in the spring many years ago, but I
have frequently been over large gardens where the
plant was not grown. In addition to its use as a
vegetable, it makes an excellent addition to the salad
bowl. It may be lifted and gently forced under
glass, and supplies had much earlier in the season if
grown thus.
SORREL 99
The culture is most simple, but the plant does not
always come true, at least it tends to revert back to its
original type when sown from seed. I prefer to divide
the plant, and if this is done annually there will be a
full crop of succulent leaves, and the plants grown thus
will not run to seed so quickly. In many gardens the
few plants of Sorrel are often relegated to an out-of-
the-way corner of the kitchen garden, but these plants
do not give the best material, and if left for years in one
place the foliage becomes small and the plant seeds
quickly. In France these plants deservedly get good
culture, and well repay for labour by the wealth of
leafage given for two or three months or more. Our
cooks at home are not fond of Sorrel like the French
chef, but it is a very good vegetable, and one that agrees
with delicate persons. I have referred to seed sowing.
This is best done early in the spring, though to gain time
I have sown any special variety as soon as the old plants
had ripened the seed in August; but sown then it needs an
open well-drained soil and the seedlings thinned as soon
as large enough to handle. Sown in March the seed is
best in rows, 2 feet between the rows, and half that
distance between the plants, when finally thinned the
plants lift readily, so that seedlings transplant freely, but
there should be no lack of moisture afterwards. Good
land will furnish the best leaves, as though the plant will
grow almost anywhere, it well repays when given a
deeply dug and well-enriched soil, and prefers a moist
situation. I have referred to autumn sowing. These
plants will give leaves in the following April. Spring
sown will need about two months before being large
enough for use. In cutting the largest leaves should
be used first, thus allowing the smaller ones to grow ;
if all are cut at the start it is wasteful. I now come
to propagation by division, and this gives leaves in a
shorter time ; it also has the advantage of retaining
ioo THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
any good variety. The plants are best if divided just
before new growth commences in the early spring
months. Our mode of culture is to plant a small quarter
annually and destroy the oldest, and not to use the same
space again. For a time a certain space is allotted for the
plants, and this lasts about three years. The planting
begins at one end, and each year a third of the room is
occupied, and at the end of the three years another site is
selected. There is no loss of land, as it will be seen that
every season a portion or bed is destroyed. The plants
divide well, and grown about 2 feet apart in rows soon
attain a large size, especially the large kinds. Our plants
occupy an east aspect, as our soil is light in cold places ;
a warmer site may be better, but as the supply is not
required after July, the position named is suitable. On the
other hand, where Sorrel is needed as late as possible, I
would advise having plants in two positions, north and
south, as the first named would give a much later supply
than the last, but the one on the south would be early
and equally useful. For ordinary supplies a quarter
planted every three years will give fair material for
salad purposes, or an occasional dish ; and in some gardens
I have seen this plant used for dividing the herb beds or
as an edging, the smaller forms being used, as they are
compact growers and not readily injured by slugs or
bad weather.
To COOK SORREL
Sorrel is best cooked with butter as recommended by
The Queen, preparing it thus : Pick it over well, nip off
the stalks, and, if thick, tear the midrib from the leaves,
tearing these also into shreds if large ; then well wash
it in several waters, finally leaving it in a colander under
a running tap for a little ; then drain, shake off most of
the moisture, and put it in a pan with a dust of sugar
and one ounce of butter for each quart of picked Sorrel,
SORREL G^pii
the moisture adhering to the Jatter being sufficient to cook
it, \vith the butter. Let it cook till well reduced (it
reduces a great deal), and when quite tender, dust in a
little fine flour ; stir this over the fire till well mixed,
when it must be all rubbed through a sieve, reheated,
and blended with a little more butter or some cream, or
some good veal gravy, and, if liked, a little more sugar,
and use. Sorrel may also be cooked by any recipe
given for Spinach. Sorrel is one of the things that
require specially to be used fresh, hence probably its
unpopularity here, where there is not sufficient demand
to ensure a constant fresh supply. To soften the acid
flavour objected to by some, use half and half Sorrel and
Spinach, or one part Spinach to three of Sorrel. If the
Sorrel is old, and consequently rather more acid, mix it
in the same way with Lettuce instead of Spinach, and
allow a little more castor sugar.
SOY BEANS
SOY BEANS are cultivated exactly as Kidney Beans, the
plants being bushy, and growing from one to two feet
ETAMPES YELLOW SOY BEAN
(One-eighth natural size ; detached pods, one-third natural size)
or more in height. They are of vigorous habit, and of
great productiveness. The beans are cooked and eaten,
either green or dried, exactly as Kidney Beans.
SWEET CICELY
SWEET CICELY (Scandix odorata) is a plant rarely seen in
gardens at the present day, but well worth culture. It
is valuable in all preparations in which the flavour of
Aniseed is required. By many persons the smell is
objected to ; as both the leaves and other portions of the
plant smell so strongly of the above herb, it is disliked.
It is much more cultivated in France and other portions
of the continent than in this country, and, of course,
from the market point of view it cannot be termed a
profitable vegetable. The leaves are mostly used
mixed with salads, and the roots also are edible, these
being used in soups and with cooked meats. The
plant is perennial, hardy, and a native of this country,
and readily raised from seed, which is best sown in
September for the next season's supply. It will grow
in almost any soil, and if sown broadcast, should be
sown thinly. If sown in the spring, it should get a
good position and a better root run, as the growth must
be made in a shorter time. The plant, when grown for
its roots, should have more room, and is best grown in
rows 12 to 13 inches apart and the seedlings well
thinned at the start. For this purpose the seeds should
be sown early in the autumn in an open position.
To COOK SWEET CICELY
The roots are prepared exactly as Chervil.
103
TUBEROUS GLYCINE
THE Tuberous Glycine (Apios tuberosa) is known under
the name of Glycine, owing to the roots being sweet
the leaves also in some cases. The tubers, which are the
edible portion used as a vegetable, are pear shaped. The
above plant is a hardy perennial and has a very pretty
habit. It is of a trailing nature, and grown in pots it
forms a handsome plant trained to stakes. As far as its
value in vegetable form is concerned, of course it must be
considered somewhat rare in this country ; but this is not
the case in other countries. It is a favourite in France,
being cooked after the manner of Potatoes. The tubers
are sweet. They are farinaceous, and much liked by
those who have lived abroad. The plant is readily
propagated by the tubers. These divided in the early
spring and planted in light sandy or well-drained soil, and
a sunny exposed position in the early spring, will make
good tubers by the autumn. The light, graceful habit
of the plant, with its brownish-purple sweet-scented
flowers, makes it a pretty garden plant, the flowers being
pea shaped, and produced in racemes in profusion.
104
YAM
THE Yam, so familiar to all classes in the West Indies,
China, and other warm countries, is practically unknown
in this country, as though seen at times in Covent
Garden and eagerly purchased by those who have
visited the tropics, few persons have much knowledge as
to the nature of the plant or of the wholesome and
palatable character of the food it provides. These roots
are mostly grown in the tropics, and they are much
esteemed, but an old West Indian told me that he had
never in all his travels found Yams equal to those of his
own country. There they were in great abundance, and
in the greatest variety, and during the time they were in
season, they formed a standard dish at the planter's table,
and were one of the staple foods of the workmen indeed,
of all classes in the West Indies, being called the Barbados
Yam. It is also stated that visitors to that country soon
become accustomed to the flavour of the Yam, and in time
fond of them. There are many ways of cooking this
vegetable, that are almost unknown in this country, the
common one being to roast or boil, but there are nearly a
dozen others. The Yam is a perennial plant and a native
of China, but found in many other warm parts of the Globe ;
and at one time it was thought to be valuable as a sub-
stitute for the Potato. The roots vary in shape in some
parts, and the two varieties that are mostly known, Dios-
corea Batatas and Dioscorea Decarsneara, are distinct in
shape, and the first named is alongroot. These are difficult
to grow on account of their going down so great a
depth into the soil, and the thin trailing stems attain
105
106 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
a height of from
6 to 9 feet.
The growth is
not unlike the
Black Bryony
found so plenti-
fully in hedge-
rows in some
parts of the
country, as the
twining stems
and shining
heart - shaped
leaves much re-
semble Byrony.
The second
named variety is
more like our
own Potatoes,
smooth and
regular in some
instances, in
others very
irregular, and
the roots do not
require such a
deep soil as they
grow much
nearer the sur-
f ac e. This
variety has been
cultivated in
CHINESE YAM many countries
^One-sixth natural size) an( J wag i ntro .
duced into France in 1854, and this, or a plant but differ-
ing little in shape and growth, is largely grown in South
YAMS 107
Africa ; indeed those who have been many years in that
Colony inform me they prefer the Sweet Potato to our
common form. The growths of the Yam and Sweet
Potatoes are so distinct in different countries that it
would serve no useful purpose to describe them at
length. As a cultivated root I do not think the plant will
ever become a success in this country. The roots, or as
they should be more properly termed the rhizomes, are full
of starch and juice, and these differ from the Potato as they
go downwards in the soil perpendicularly often to the
depth of a yard if the soil is loose, and these plants in
suitable soil, when left to themselves, spread over the
ground and readily take root. The leaves of the plant
have been described as not unlike Byrony ; the flowers
are very small, and a pale yellow, produced in small
racemes at the axils of the leaves, and the roots may
be said to be club shaped of different colours mostly
dark or fawn colour. The flesh is white and milky.
In China these roots have peculiar names, and the people
use them largely as food ; indeed as largely as the Potato
is used in this country. For seed purposes the smallest
tubers are preserved through the winter in pits well
lined with protecting material and covered over. In spring
they are taken out and sprouted by being placed close to-
gether in well-prepared soil. They then produce their
trailing stems, and these, when strong enough, are made
into cuttings, and planted in ridges they soon root in
moist weather and form tubers ; fresh stems also appear,
but these are removed as they rob the tuber. There are
several varieties of Chinese Yams, but they are of no
value in this country. The variety noted above is very
common in China, and this thrives so well that a
trench To to 15 feet long will often produce enough
roots to keep one man a whole year -, that is, there is
sufficient produce or roots for consumption for that
period. The plants are also increased by cutting in
io8 THE BOOK OF RARER VEGETABLES
pieces ; also from seed. The latter is gathered when ripe,
and is covered with soil to preserve it. In spring the
seeds are taken out of the ground and sown. Great care
must be taken that the roots or seeds are not injured by
frost. It is found that a much larger crop of roots
is obtained when the plants are given stakes or supports
during growth. They twine round the sticks very
regularly, much like our Scarlet Runners, and the tubers
average from 14 to 20 inches long, the upper part being
smallest, and this is often used for planting when cut,
and the thick and fleshy part for food.
AMERICAN YAMS A LA FRANCAISE
A very good way of cooking Yams is that advised by
Mrs de Salis. Cut the Yams into slices about half an
inch thick, trim into oval shapes, put them into a pan
full of water ; wash and drain them upon a cloth ; next
place them in a stewpan with two and a half ounces of
butter, and season with salt and a grate of nutmeg.
Moisten with a pint of water ; put the lid on and let
them simmer for three-quarters of an hour, turning them
over occasionally, so that they may be equally a bright
yellow colour on both sides. Arrange in a circle, and
pour the following sauce over them :
Mix an ounce of butter with a dessert-spoonful of
flour ; put it into a stewpan with a gill of cream, a tea-
spoonful of castor sugar, a little salt, and a teaspoonful
of lemon-juice. Stir this over the fire till it thickens,
when it will be ready.
To BOIL YAMS
Having peeled and well washed them, place in cold
water and boil exactly as Potatoes.
To BAKE YAMS
Wash and lightly scrape the Yams. Then bake in a
hot oven till soft. Serve as baked Potatoes with butter,
pepper, and salt.
INDEX OF PLANTS
ARTICHOKE, Chinese, 12
Globe, 5
Aubergine, 37
CAPSICUM, 15
Cardoon, 18
Celeriac, 24
Chervil, 27
Chick Pea, 29
Chicory, 30
Chou de Burghley, 32
Coco, 33
Congo Potato, 79
Cookery of Vegetables, 3
Corn, Indian, 56
Couve Tronchuda, 34
DANDELION, 35
Deppi, 71
EGG Plant, 37
Evening Primrose, 43
FENNEL, 45
Fir Apple Potato, 80
GLYCINE, 104
Golden Thistle, 91
Good King Henry, 47
HAMBURG Parsley, 75
Herb Patience, 77
Hop, 49
Horse Radish, 50
INDIAN Corn, 56
LENTIL, 53
MAIZE, 56
Mercury, 47
Mountain Spinach, 59
NASTURTIUM, 61
Nettle, 64
New Zealand Spinach, 65
OKA, 71
Onions, 67
Onion, Egyptian, 68
Potato, 67
Tree, 68
Welsh, 68
Oxalis Crenata, 71
PARSLEY, Hamburg, 75
Patience, 77
Potato, Congo, 79
Fir Apple, 80
Sweet, 8 1
QUINOA, 83
RAMl'lON, 85
Rhubarb, 87
Rocambole, 90
SCOLYMUS, 91
Scurvy Grass, 93
Seakale Cabbage, 34
Skirret, 95
Sorrel, 36, 97
Soy Beans, 102
Spinach, Mountain, 59
New Zealand, 65
Sweet Cicely, 103
Potato, 8 i
YAM, 105
109
Handbooks of Practical Gardening
EDITED BY HARRY ROBERTS
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THE BOOK OF ASPARAGUS. With sections on Celery,
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Together with chapters by the Editor on the History and Cooking of
the Apple and the Preparation of Cider.
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FlTZHERBERT.
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will be of interest to experienced bee-keepers as well as to the novice.
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able for various purposes and situations.
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gained by the results of his own personal experience.
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A description of, and a practical guide to, the cultivation of all the lilies
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and W. GIBSON, Head Gardener at Levens Hall.
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By Mrs F. A. BARDSWELL.
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THE MOTOR BOOK. By R. T. MECREDY. With numer-
ous illustrations. An invaluable handbook that should find a place
in the library of every motorist, or even in the car itself.
CONTENTS : The Motor Change Speed Gear and Transmission How
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taining varied and useful information relating to forests, together
with a special chapter on Practical Forestry.
CONTENTS : Some Famous British Forests In the Sweet of the Year
Autumn's Fiery Finger The Woods in Winter The Music of the Trees
The King of the Forest The Beech and the Elm Plane and Poplar,
&c., &c. Practical Forestry.
THE STILL ROOM. By Mrs CHARLES ROUNDELL.
A book of information upon preserving, pickling, bottling, distilling,
&c., with many useful hints upon the dairy.
CONTENTS : The Pickling of Meat Butter, Eggs, and Cheese Bott-
ling Fruit and Vegetables Preserves and Jellies Wines and Cups
Distilling Herbs Pickles Refreshments for Garden Parties and Picnics
Pot Pourri Food for Invalids.
THE BIRD BOOK. By A. J. R. ROBERTS. A guide to
the study of bird life, with hints as to recognising various species
by their flight or their note.
CONTENTS : General Structure and Flight The Music of the Birds
Around the House Birds of the Hedgerow Birds of the Field By the
Riverside Woodland Birds By Marsh and Mere Moorland Birds-
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THE WOMAN OUT OF DOORS. By MENIE MURIEL
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WOOD.
THE STABLE HANDBOOK. By T. F. DALE.
H
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THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. Edited, with
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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
BERKELEY
Return to desk from which borrowed.
This book is DUE on the last date stamped
AUTO. DISC.
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