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Book of Sauces
By C. Herman Senn
u
Author of "Practical Gastronomy", "The
Twentieth Century Cookery Book", etc.
Copyright 1915 by C. Herman Senn
Published by
The Hotel Monthly Press
950 Merchandise Mart
Chicago, 111.
PREFACE
Since sauces accompany practically every
dish, whether it be savory (fish or meat) or a
sweet, it follows that sauce-making constitutes
a most important branch in cookery. An apol-
ogy is therefore nardly needed for the publica-
tion of a volume devoted entirely to the art of
preparing sauces.
It was, I believe, the great maitre-chef Ca-
reme who put a premium on any original crea-
tion in cookery. To him it mattered little if
people criticised adversely new dishes which he
introduced. He had such confidence in his
ability to create something artistic as well as
original that he could afford to wait while his
rivals endeavored to spoil the reputation of his
Hollandaise or Salmis. Today an innovation in
cookery is subjected to practically the same fire
of criticism. One season it is the introduction
of a new Entree or Hors-d'oeuvre, the next the
culinary world sits in judgment on a certain
sauce which becomes fashionable as an adjunct
to a famous Entree or Entremet.
Whilst disclaiming originality of the many
standard sauces which are treated in this book,
all of which are to be found in most of the
complete cookery manuals, a large number of
compound and auxiliary sauces combining en-
tirely new creations have been included in this
book.
It is hoped that this collection of sauce
recipes, which is claimed to be the largest and
most complete ever published in one volume,
will meet the wants of professional cooks as
well as amateurs, and thus fulfill a useful mis-
sion. With the exception of standard and
stock sauces, the ingredients given with each
recipe are based to be sufficient for a full serv-
ice of six or seven persons.
C. H. S.
LIBRARY
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
The History of Sauce Making.
Sauces, according to the famous maftres, chefs
and culinary artists of the past, Careme and
Soyer, "are to cookery what grammer is to lan-
guage, and melody is to music M ; whilst that intel-
lectual causeur, the Marquis de Cussy, goes so far
as to call the artist in sauces "an enlightened
chemist the creative genius of the high-class
cuisine. ' '
When the practice first began of roasting food
particularly meat on the spit, broiling it on
the gridiron, and boiling it in large cauldrons,
sauces and gravies did not come into the reckon-
ing as yet, the instinctive desire for them being
satisfied instead by various aromatic herbs and
saline (from which is derived "salsa, " the word
from which our " sauce " comes) adjuncts to the
meal. It is, in fact, only the very choicest morsels
of meat, and these only when prepared by the most
skilful hands, which, when roasted, fried, or grilled
are found savory without sauce, for these contain
sufficient juice to prevent them from being dry
and insipid. The Englishman even of the present
day scorns the sauces of German cookery; but is
glad to make the acquaintance of a good French
sauce served with roast, baked, or fried meat, or
with plain boiled vegetables.
That there is a standing need for liquid adjuncts
for food is indisputable. The modern English
method furnishes a very good illustration of the
way in which the typical sauce, brought to perfec-
tion by the French, has passed through various
stages to the lofty eminence it now holds. The
ancient Greeks and Romans certainly did prepare
sauces, but theirs, as certain others of to-day, not
only had no methodical relation to the dishes they
accompanied, but were often glaringly unsuited
thereto. For instance, the following two sauces,
one for meat and the other f OIL mushrooms, are
'
4 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
recommended by Apicius, the great Roman gas-
tronomer of Tiberius' time. The former is com-
posed of pepper, dried herbs, coriander-seed, rue,
fish-brine, honey, and a little oil, all well-ground
and thoroughly mixed. For the sauce for mush-
rooms the ingredients are: oil, thyme, beans, cara-
way-seeds, salt, pepper, ginger, wine, and a small
quantity of the mysterious "sylphium," now
thought to be assafoatida. It goes without saying
that pungent sauces like these must completely
overpower and alter the individual flavor of any
kind of food. The cooks of ancient Eome, making
a virtue of necessity, needed to vie with each other
in giving quite a different taste to the meats they
prepared; imparting to pork, for instance, the fla-
vor of partridge; to goose, that of fish; and to
tunny, that of veal. This absurd mania reaches
its climax in the performance of that French cook
who is said to have prepared a delicious ragout
from a leathern glove! ''But the sauce! that
is my secret, my work of art, my glory ! ' '
The cooks of the Middle Ages were rather lavish
in the use of salt, pepper, and other condiments,
much more so than those of antiquity; this is
shown by a cookery book by Moutardier-Gilde, pub-
lished in 1394. Sugar and other sweet substances
were also used in abundance by the cooks of that
period; and thus the sauces affected then became
a heterogeneous melange which would almost hor-
rify our modern taste. Let us take two or three
examples. For roast goose: chief ingredient, milk,
stirred over the fire with flour, salt, pepper, saf-
fron, pounded almonds, and goose-dripping; the
name of this concoction is given as ' ' goose-milk. ' '
Served with roast beef: roasted apples, raisins,
pepper, nutmeg, ginger, and sugar and port wine
boiled together and strained, the whole forming a
kind of sauce called ' ' Probeat. ' J We thus see that
the Middle Ages had but little to teach us in our
culinary affairs, and especially so far as sauces
are concerned.
"When the gastronomic reforms begun in all its
glory under Catherine de Medicis and Anne of
Austria revealed French cookery (the basis of all
good international cookery in our own times) it
was perceived that the one and only use of a
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 5
sauce was to heighten the flavor of a special dish.
It was Marperger who, in 1718, instituted the use
of the word "tunke" in Germany for " sauce
proper, 77 to distinguish it more accurately from
"gravy, " with which the German name "sause"
or "sulze" was apt to be confused. Even now the
word for sauce in Low German is "tunke" or
"stippe, " the characteristic of this preparation
in some parts of Germany being that it is of a
consistency to allow of the people dipping ("tunk-
ing" or "stipping") morsels of solid food in it;
while in their thin gravy on the other hand, they
would let the pieces swim till dissolved, the whole
being then drunk as liquor. A correct sauce is
that wonderful production of the culinary art
which forms so pleasant and exquisite an accom-
paniment to all kinds of fish, meat, poultry, and
game, or vegetables. The onion-flavored cream
sauce "Soubise" is said to have been invented
by the Lord High Steward the Marquis de
Bechamel, whilst history tells us that the brown
onion " Sauce Kobert" owes its name by being
the head cook of King Francis I.
The skill and knowledge of a cook is shown in
no other part of the culinary art so prominently
than in the way in which his or her sauces are
prepared. To be able to make a perfect sauce is
indeed the height in the art of cooking.
The most simple dishes can be made relishable by
the addition of a good plain sauce, whilst the most
recherche dishes can be improved and be made
still more palatable by a well-made sauce, just as
a good painting is made smarter by being var-
nished.
Sauces in cookery may be termed the essence of
elegance of dishes with which they are served.
Before we enter into the various details of prep-
aration of the compositions of sauces, I am anxious
to point out that every sauce, whether plain or
rich, must possess a decidedly distinct flavor and
character. There are many plain sauces which are
made quickly and of materials usually at hand.
Let these be as the name implies, simple and pure,
so that they may merely taste of the materials
employed, from which such sauces take their name.
Eicher sauces always require a longer and slower
process for their preparation.
6 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Until the beginning of the nineteenth century,
the art of sauce making was hardly known in Eng-
land. The charge made at that time against the
English nation by a celebrated epigrammist, who
said that we had many religions but only one sauce,
would hardly hold good today, for it is reckoned
that there are at least 650 different sauces and
gravies known at this moment. An ingenious cook
will have as little trouble to form that number of
sauces in different varieties, as a musician with his
seven notes, or a painter with his pallet and col-
ors; nor is it too much to assert that there is no
other branch in cookery which offers better oppor-
tunities to display the ability of a cook than this.
The art of sauce making consists in preparing
liquids from various materials by cleverly extract-
ing and combining certain flavors into the liquid.
Besides this the gift of a good palate is essential,
which likewise requires all the experience and skill
of the most accomplished cook, as well as a thor-
ough knowledge of the taste of those for whom he
or she is cooking.
Distinction between Sauces and Gravies: As
there are many people who do not know the dis-
tinction between sauces and gravies, it is neces-
sary to devote a few words to this subject, so as to
make this quite clear. A gravy is not a sauce,
but simply the juices of meat (roasted or braised
meat) seasoned but without being thickened, whilst
a sauce may be defined, using the most general
term, as a liquid seasoning containing some kind of
liaison or thickening which is employed in the
presentation of food.
According to the chief dictionaries, a gravy may
be called a sauce, although a sauce is not always
a gravy. Many of the ' ' grande ' ' sauces contain gra-
vies for their foundation which are used in a
concentrated form to enrich the flavor of such
sauces. It is therefore more distinctive to call
liquids pure and simple gravies, and liquids thick-
ened with flour or other ingredients sauces, such
as "liaisons/ 7 thickenings or bindings.
Liaisons: The various processes of thickening
sauces as well as soups are called liaisons. There
are six distinct methods known for thickening
sauces :
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 7
1. Liaison with roux.
2. Liaison with eggs.
3. Liaison with butter and cream.
4. Liaison with kneaded butter and flour.
5. Liaison with blood.
6. Liaison with cornflour, arrowroot, or
ferula.
Koux: The most popular and most generally
adopted thickening is effected by means of roux.
It is therefore necessary to first give a few details
to define the word roux in regard to its culinary
meaning.
Literally the word means russet, but in the cul-
inary sense it is a mixture of flour and butter
cooked or blended to certain degrees, to white, to
brown, or to fawn colors. The quantity of flour
and butter employed are used in equal propor-
tions. If made beforehand in large or small quan-
tities, it should be kept in covered jars, when it
will keep good for months. A tablespoonful ii
usually found sufficient to thicken a pint of liquid.
Stock-roux must always be kept in a cool place
and ready at hand for use.
If used cold it may be mixed with cold or hot
stock, but if mixed cold, it must be stirred con-
stantly over the fire until boiling; or if mixed
hot, the liquid should be poured by degrees into
the roux away from the fire, and then stirred over
the fire till it boils.
Special precaution must always be exercised in
making a sauce with a roux thickening, that the
temperature is lowered, or, in other words, that
the roux is allowed to cool a little before the liquid
stock or gravy is added. This will prevent the
sauce from getting lumpy, and will do much
towards making a sauce perfectly smooth. All
roux must be stirred constantly during the process
of cooking, i. e., frying.
White Roux (Roux Blanc) : This is a mixture
of flour and water, cooked in a stew-pan, on a
moderate fire, without allowing it to attain any
color, whereby it should retain its original white
color.
Blonde or Fawn Roux (Eoux Blond): This is
made by melting a certain quantity of butter, and
stirring in the same or a less quantity of sifted
8 THE BOOK OP SAUCES
flour, and by cooking it over a slow fire or in the
oven until it has acquired a light blonde or fawn
color.
Brown Roux (Eoux Brun) : This is the so-called
Stock-Koux, which can be prepared in large quan-
tities to be used cold as required as before
explained.
It is made exactly in the same manner as the
foregoing, with the exception that it is fried
longer until it becomes a darker color, a chest-
nut brown, or russet brown. It is best to finish
the roux in a slack oven, for the slower the process
the better the blending and the finer the aroma
of the sauce will subsequently be.
Eoux Liaison: This liaison is made by pouring
prepared strained stock gradually into the stew-
pan containing the roux, which, as before ex-
plained, must be allowed to cool off a little. The
contents is then stirred over a slow fire until it
boils, and is then allowed to simmer until it at-
tains the desired consistency. With brown and
blonde sauces the roux employed is usually made
up with a "mirepoix" to introduce the necessary
flavorings. This item ' ' mirepoix ' ' is more fully
explained further on.
Egg Liaison: This is a thickening composed of
yolks of eggs beaten up and diluted with a small
quantity of cream, milk, or cold white stock. Cream
is more often used than stock. The sauce to which
this liaison is added must necessarily be boiling,
it is then removed to the side of the stove, when
a ladleful of sauce is stirred into the egg mixture,
then the whole is poured into the sauce, and stirred
over the fire (slow) for several minutes, without
permitting it to boil.
Every sauce or soup which is thickened with
eggs should be passed through a tammy before
it can be served. This liaison is used largely for
blanquettes, white ragouts, and fricasses as well
as for soups.
Butter and Cream Liaisons: Butter and cream
are incorporated in equal proportions into sauces
and soups, just before they are wanted for serving.
Stir vigorously without reheating. The flavor of
any sauce would become altered if butter or cream
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 9
were added too soon, or if a sauce were again
allowed to boil. The same may be said of butter
liaisons. By this process a quantity of cold fresh
butter is added in small bits to sauces the moment
they are taken off the fire, they are then stirred
with a whisk and served without being reheated.
Kneaded Butter Liaison: Incorporate or knead
as much flour into butter as it will absorb to form
a soft paste, and to mix it in small portions into
a thin sauce (hot), stirring it constantly until all
the butter is melted, constitutes what is called a
kneaded butter liaison.
Blood Liaison: This is mostly used with hare
or other game entree sauces. It is made by pre-
serving the blood of hare or game, to which is
added a little vinegar to prevent it from coagulat-
ing; it is then strained through a fine sieve, and
stirred gradually into sauces a few minutes before
serving. This kind of liaison is but little used
now.
Farinaceous Liaisons: Arrowroot, corn-flour,
potato-flour, rice flour (f^gulae), or other similar
farinaceous preparations are frequently used for
thickening sauces. Dilute one or the other of these
with a little milk, cold stock, or water, pour it
through a strainer into boiling liquid, stir contin-
ually until it boils, then simmer gently for ten or
fifteen minutes longer.
Mirepoix: Although the word mirepoix is a
common term in culinary matters, it does not in
the least imply or make clear what it constitutes.
It is one of the many words which the gastronomic
authorities ought to abolish and substitute with a
more appropriate one, one that conveys more
clearly the meaning of the composition of the title
it bears. History tells us that Mirepoix was a
Duke whose wife, being a clever cook, became a
favorite with Louis XV. I, however, fail to see
what this has to do with this culinary adjunct
used in the preparation of sauces and soups,
braises, and stews. To come to the point, let me
explain that a " mirepoix " is nothing less than
an essence or extract of meat and vegetables, one
of the most useful preparations to impart flavor
10 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
of exquisite richness in various kinds of sauces,
soups, and other culinary preparations.
To make a mirepoix properly, use the following
ingredients: ^ Ib. bacon (ham or gammon) cut
into small pieces, 1 carrot (slices), 1 or 2 bay-
leaves, a sprig of thyme, 2 small onions (sliced),
a clove of garlic, 2 shallots.
Fry these carefully without actually browning,
and the mirepoix proper will be complete. It will
afterwards, according to requirements, be diluted
and boiled up with wine, sherry, chablis, sauterne,
or claret, which will be added to stock or to sauce
to simmer in it and to give it the desired flavor.
Many chefs do not consider a mirepoix complete
without a certain quantity of veal or other lean
meat, being added. This I maintain to be waste-
ful, as the stock employed should contain the
necessary flavor of meat needed. The addition
of bacon or ham has, on the other hand, quite a
different effect as to its flavor, and I cannot
speak too highly of it.
Essences of Meat, etc.: Essences or extracts of
meat, fish, poultry, and game are largely employed
in the various sauce preparations. These are de-
coctions or concentrated liquids containing as
much as possible of the flavors, which by certain
processes are reduced to the consistency of half-
glaze.
To make an Essence: The materials from which
the essence takes its name are put in a stew-pan
with a quantity of rich stock, wine, vegetables, and
herb flavoring. When sufficiently simmered the
liquor is strained into another stew-pan, and when
thoroughly skimmed and freed from fat it is re-
duced to the consistency needed and put by for
use when required.
The following essences are those most frequently
used in high-class kitchens:
Ham essence, truffle essence, fish essence, mush-
room essence, chicken essence, rabbit essence, game
essence, pheasant, woodcock, snipe, partridge and
lark essence, etc.
These essences are, of course, used to enrich
certain sauces, so as to make their characteristic
flavor more conspicuous. It is needless to add that
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 11
the use of essences is only adopted for very rich
sauces, etc.
Fumet: A fumet is very much the same prepa-
tion as essences, but much richer, being reduced
with sherry or madeira wine. Fumet, in other
words, may be termed the flavor, being in reality
the condensed steam which rises from certain
cooked and raw meats, game, or poultry, whereby
a most exquisite and agreeable flavor is obtained.
For a fumet the raw ingredients required are
usually saute"ed in the first instance, after which
a bouquet of herbs, stock, and wine are added for
reduction purposes.
Foundation Sauces: All the great sauces, as
they are called in France, have either well reduced
stock or essences for their foundation. Espagnole,
Veloute*, Allemande, and Bechamel, are the names
of the four sauces known as 1 ' les grandes sauces, ' '
though the actual leading foundation sauces are
a brown and a white sauce.
Espagnole and Bechamel: These are justly
termed the Adam and Eve of all their other prepar-
ations, because from these an endless variety of
sauces can be made.
If we look into the above statement concerning
the four grande sauces more closely, we find that
Espagnole is a brown sauce, whilst the other three
are white sauces. This must strike the uninitiated
as somewhat odd, because only one brown sauce
is recognized, whereas in cookery a brown sauce
is used at least three times as often as a white
sauce. It is furthermore curious, or apparently
so, to note that the brown sauce which the French
cuisine recognizes as the sauce should be called
Spanish (Espagnole).
The white sauce has two varieties the Bechamel,
and Allemande or Veloute. It would, however, be
much more distinctive to recognize but two kinds
of sauces as foundation or grande sauces, viz.:
The Espagnole (Spanish) and the Bechamel,
which are unquestionably the two leading sauces
in cookery, and as such is the case they deserve
to receive special recognition.
Sauce Espagnole versus Brown Sauce: There
are many people who imagine that Espagnole sauce
12 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
is nothing more than an ordinary brown sauce.
The French cuisine practically owes much of its
advancement in cookery to Spain, although the
French have excelled the Spanish cuisine by a long
way. Spanish cookery was at one time the pioneer,
when no doubt this sauce was introduced into
France, and such being the case, it cannot be
wondered at that the French cooks have stuck
to the name of so important a sauce, which they
have adopted as their chief brown sauce.
The great secret about this brown sauce consists
in the hammy flavor, which is blended into the
sauce in such a skilful manner, which makes it
superior and distinguishable from an ordinary
brown sauce.
Much of the success of a brown sauce a funda-
mental sauce depends upon the manner in which
the flour is blended, or, to be more correct, roasted.
The principle of roasting flour is practically the
same in every instance, although there are a num-
ber of ways of introducing the roast flavor into a
brown sauce. To illustrate my meaning in this
respect, let us take the roasting of coffee as an
example, which will give us some idea as to what
happens in roasting flour for a sauce. We know
that when coffee is properly roasted its aromatic
qualities are developed, whereby certain salts and
volatile oils are blended, bringing out an excellent
aroma, which by mere boiling of the berry could
never be attained.
The result obtained by torref action is not merely
a change of color and an access of fragrance, but
also the development of qualities which affect the
human frame, which exhilarate the nervous sys-
tem. The process of roasting flour and the sub-
sequent result in sauces is to a certain extent the
same. To roast the flour to a nut-brown color
develops a fragrance of the most exquisite flavor,
which will ultimately be incorporated into the
sauce or sauces.
Time required for cooking: In cooking this as
well as other sauces, which require a process of
long cooking, it should be remembered that a sauce
must simmer long enough to clear and have the fat
separated and come to the surface, so that it can
be skimmed off.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 13
The introduction of ham, or lean bacon, this
being more often used than ham, into the leading
brown sauce is but one out of many other ways of
incorporating a so-called smoky or hammy flavor,
which makes the Espagnole so characteristic, and
there is no question as to whether this addition
really improves the flavor, for I can assert with
every confidence that the best French cooks put
ham with due discretion into practically every first-
class brown meat sauce or brown meat soup. We
do not, therefore, need any further conviction as
to the usefulness of ham in brown sauces.
It is well worth noting that although the addi-
tion of ham is excellent for brown sauce prepara-
tions, the introduction of anything approaching
the flavor of ham into white sauces has just the
opposite effect, being entirely opposed to its char-
acter. This shows at once that the nature of white
sauce is produced by blending and ebullition alone,
so as to keep it quite free from any of the smoky
or incalescent flavors.
Bechamel, Veloutee and Other White Sauces:
Sauces of this class need not always be essen-
tially white, for very often they are of a creamy,
yellow or greenish tint; but the white sauces,
the foundation sauces proper, are the result of
what has already been explained viz. a blend-
ing of flour and butter, perfected by a certain
amount of ebullition, which in the first stage
becomes a white coulis, or a veloutee, which is
subsequently enriched with cream, yolks of
eggs, or butter, in order to give it the required
distinctive character.
Brown Sauces: The brown sauce, on the other
hand, has to go through a process of roasting in
the first instance viz. the preparation of the
brown roux, which is roasting flour and butter,
to impart the distinctive flavor. This, in addi-
tion to the boiling and simmering processes by
which the various meats, vegetables, and other
ingredients are prepared, produces a brown sauce.
Plain or Simple Sauces: It must be remem-
bered that ordinary sauces, prepared on the
quick system, should be allowed to boil at least
ten minutes from the time the liquid is added.
When a sauce is cooked less than ten minutes,
14 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
the flour will not have had time to develop its
full flavor for sauces, and the butter only par-
tially separates, which gives to the sauce a
greasy appearance.
Overcooking of Sauces: It sometimes happens
that by some oversight or error a sauce is
cooked so long that it becomes oily. In this case
a little cold stock, cold milk or water should
be added, and if the sauce is stirred until it
begins to boil it will again become perfectly
smooth, but it must not on any account be
allowed to boil any longer. It must be removed
from the fire immediately before it actually
boils.
Error in Overseasoning: Many a plain sauce
is spoilt by cooks who are too fond of using
spicy flavorings. They seem to me to be unable
to make a sauce without adding one or more
dashes of bottled sauces, spices, etc., thinking
that these additions must necessarily be an im-
provement. This practice, I need hardly say, is
a much mistaken one, for such additions often
overpower the essential, natural flavor of their
plain sauces, by overloading them with ingre-
dients which are unpalatable. A plain sauce,
as a rule, needs nothing in the way of seasoning,
except salt and pepper, to bring out the flavor
and to stimulate or awaken the palate. Those
who wish for piquancy of flavor will always find
means to satisfy their wants from the cruet.
Characteristic of Sauces and Seasoning: No
matter what the character of a sauce may be,
remember that in all compound sauces, whether
plain or rich, the rule for seasoning and flavor-
ing is the same in every case: that is, the ingre-
dients used for this purpose should be so pro-
portioned that no flavor predominates over the
other, so that by a careful and judicious com-
bination of flavors the sauce or sauces prepared
will not fail to be acceptable to the palate of
the most refined gourmet.
Cook's Duty Regarding Taste: Furthermore,
remember that it is a cook's duty to study the
likes and dislikes as to seasoning and flavoring
of those for whom she or he works, whereby
certain ingredients for every sauce must neces-
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 15
sarily be increased or lessened according to
taste. If this is done, no one need fail to be-
come master of the art of sauce-making, so far
as the extraction and combination of flavors in
sauces are concerned.
On the Beduction of Sauces: We reduce or
boil down sauces to give them the necessary
strength and consistency. This is usually the
case with the compounds into which stocks,
essences, fumets, etc., have been incorporated:
these are added for the express purpose of re-
duction, and should be in a concentrated form,
so as to lessen as much as possible the labor of
boiling or simmering. All sauces which need to
be reduced must be strained and freed from
fat; they must be put on a quick fire at first,
and must be stirred with a wooden spatula or
spoon to prevent the sauce from adhering to the
bottom of the saucepan in which the sauce is
put. The necessary quantity of stock, etc., re-
quired for its improvement is next added; it is
then allowed to boil until it has acquired the
desired consistency: when this is effected the
sauce is passed through a tammy cloth.
Various Kinds of Sauces: Having explained
the difference between white and brown sauces,
and having given minute details of the various
thickenings (liaisons), as well as other impor-
tant points concerning sauces and their prepara-
tion, I will now give a list of the various sauces
which are most frequently used in cookery.
There are two groups of sauces:
I. Hot Sauces: These are divided into three
sections:
(1) Plain. (2) Savory. (3) Sweet.
II. Cold Sauces: These are divided into
three sections:
(1) Chaud-froid. (2) Salad. (3) Sweet.
I. Hot Sauces.
(1) PLAIN SAUCES. These include:
Melted Butter White Sauce Mustard
Anchovy Parsley Caper Sauce
Brown Onion (white Fennel
Egg or brown) Bread, etc.
16
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
(2) SAVOEY SAUCES. (a)
WHITE
SAUCES:
Bechamel
Dutch or
Horse-radish
Cream
Hollandaise
Maitre d 'Hotel
Oyster
Lobster
Pluche
Mussel
Normande
Bearnaise
Poulette
Eavigote
Chicken
Fines Herbes
Shrimp
Supreme
Soubise
Provencjale
Cucumber
Cardinal
Celery
Mousseline, etc.
Mornay
Eichalotte
Veloutee
Allemande
(b) BEOWN
SAUCES:
Espagnole
Italienne
Madere
Bordelaise
Bretonne
Genoise
Curry
Financiere
Lyonnaise
Chasseur
Eobert
Tomato
Matelotte
Milanaise
Bigarade
Mushroom
Olive
Perigord
Orange
Eeforme
Game
Truffle
Poivrade
Estragon, etc.
Pompadour
Salmis
Turtle
Piquante
(3) SWEET
SAUCES:
Apple
Peach
Gooseberry
Apricot
Vanilla
Sabayon
Mousseline
Orange
Easpberry
Cherry
German
Strawberry
Chocolate
Custard
Etc.
II. Cold Sauces.
(1) CHAUD-FEOIDS:
White
Fawn
Blonde
Horse-radish
Fines Herbes
(2) SALAD
Mayonnaise
Cardinal
Moutarde
(3) SWEET
Cream
Eum
Banana
Custard
Caramel
Green
Brown
Eavigote
Mint
Pink
SAUCES:
Tartare
Eavigote
Fines Herbes
SAUCES:
Vanilla
Apricot
Pineapple
Liqueur
Sabayon
Tomate
Verte
Eed
Cream
Suedoise, etc.
Eemoulade
Mousseline
Vinaigrette, etc.
Easpberry
Strawberry
Chocolate, etc.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 1?
SEASONING AND FLAVORING
The business of an intelligent cook is twofold:
he or she must know how to please the eye, but
above all the palate must be flattered as well,
for "where pleasures to the eye and palate
meet, such work is done and the dishes are com-
plete. M This is particularly essential in the
case of sauces and their making.
The best chefs de cuisine regard seasoning
and flavoring ingredients as absolute necessities
to carry out their object, because the success of
their cooking depends largely upon their aid.
But condiments for seasoning and flavoring must
be used with skill, and above all sparingly.
All palates do not crave for highly spiced
foods, or for condiments, yet the majority of
people demand that the food should be moder-
ately seasoned with some kind of condiments,
for the flavor of insipid food can be very much
improved by the use of some suitable condiment.
To flavor or season rightly is an accomplish-
ment of no mean order. Consider how much food
is spoilt through being over-seasoned, and how
much of it is made insipid through lack of
proper and sufficient seasoning. Almost every-
thing we cook has a flavor of its own, the nat-
ural flavor, and to retain this becomes often a
difficulty, because the great secret lies in bring-
ing out the natural flavor, rather than impart-
ing a new one.
All those who have been initiated into the
rudiments of cookery, as well as connoisseurs,
must know that the success of any dish, whether
plain or elaborate, depends to a very large extent
upon its seasoning, and everyone who desires to
master this art must carefully study and observe
all the rules pertaining to this important branch
of cookery. Intelligence, carefulness, thorough,
sound judgment, a steady hand, and a keen per-
ception of palate are qualifications which every
cook must possess in order to prepare food so
as to make it appetizing, pleasant to the taste,
18 THE BOOK OP SAUCES
and in every way perfectly palatable. Well
cooked and well seasoned food is admittedly
more digestible than the unpalatable.
An erroneous idea prevails that tf plain cook-
ery" requires no other flavoring or seasoning
beyond salt, pepper, and, say, Worcester sauce
or ketchup. It can easily be proved that there
are a variety of inexpensive seasonings besides
these which may with advantage be used for
imparting a better flavor, whereby the monotony
of plain dishes becomes considerably alleviated.
It is most difficult to give any precise direc-
tions for seasoning; experience alone will teach
a cook. Tastes differ considerably. What may
be agreeable to one may be objectionable or
insipid to another. It is the cook's business to
study the taste of those he or she serves, and
the seasoning of the food must therefore be
used according to the requirements of those to
whom the dishes are served.
It is in all cases well to remember that sea-
sonings, whatever they may consist of, should be
used in small quantities only, as one can always
add more if found necessary, but it is impossible
to remove any if too much has been added in
the first instance.
The late Monsieur Tide, one of the most tal-
ented chefs of the past, in his culinary work
says that "the best cookery in the world is
worthless without seasoning. "
We know that cookery acts upon food by
diminishing the firmness of some articles, and
by increasing it in others. We further know
that the flavor is altered as well as the aroma
and appearance, whilst seasoning and flavoring
heighten the savoriness of food, the action of
which is increased by the addition of aromatic,
pungent, and stimulant ingredients. The so-
called highly seasoned dishes must be regulated
on a sliding scale as regards the seasoning em-
ployed, so as to adapt them to the various pal-
ates, which, as before stated, differ considerably,
It is quite impossible to specify in any recipe
the exact quantity of seasoning materials for
each dish. Not only palates but also stomachs
differ as to the amount of salt and spices which
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 19
suits them. For this reason, if for no other, it
is always best to use all seasonings moderately.
The object of seasoning, providing always it be
added in moderate and reasonable quantities, is
to increase the digestibility of food, to flavor
food which would otherwise be insipid, and to
render it at the same time more palatable and
digestible. By seasoning certain food materials,
we copy to a certain extent nature, who renders
fruit wholesome and agreeable to the taste by
associating insipidness with acids, by combining
certain forms of starch with sugar, as well as by
the characteristic instinctive longing with which
nature animates both man and animal for salt
and for the flavor and piquancy of aromatic
herbs and spices.
While a fine and discriminating taste is nat-
ural to a few only, it may be cultivated in some
degree by all. It is the fortune of the cook
who possesses it; if not, he or she may, through
plenty of experience, acquire it in some measure.
The most important articles used for season-
ing and flavoring are salt, sugar, pepper, spices,
aromatic herbs, vinegar, vegetables, mustard,
butter and other fats, oils, etc. The principal
functions which these adjuncts have to perform
is, as explained in the foregoing pages, to render
food more palatable, more appetizing, and more
digestible.
Salt is the chief and most important seasoning
used; it is not merely a seasoning, but a neces-
sary of life, for it removes the insipid flavor
from all eatables, such as meat, vegetables, etc.;
it acts as an appetizer, and promotes digestion.
The average quantity of salt required by each
person being, according to medical authority,
from }4 to % an ounce per day, it becomes a
necessary adjunct for the preservation of health.
When added to food it excites the supply of two
important agents in the processes of digestion
and nutrition, viz., the gastric juice and the
constituents of the bile. Salt, like all season-
ings, must be used with judgment.
When added to boiling water, it raises the
boiling-point and liberates the oxygen. Salt acts
20 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
further as a great preserving agent for meat,
vegetables, and other substances.
Spices, such as white and black pepper,
cayenne, cloves, nutmeg, paprika (Hungarian
pepper), coriander, cinnamon, mace, etc., cannot
be considered to have any nutritive properties.
They are used for the purpose of imparting cer-
tain flavors to improve the taste of various food
substances. In adding the seasoning and flavor-
ing to dishes, it is of the greatest importance
for a cook to remember that the exquisite sensi-
bility of a cook's palate can best be judged and
admired by his or her cooking.
Allspice: This well-known and useful spice is
the berry of the "Eugenia Pimenta," a small
tree growing in the West Indies. The fruit is
gathered when green and unripe, and put to dry
in the sun, when it turns black. Large quanti-
ties of it are employed in the manufacture of
the sauces sold in shops. The berries combine
the flavor of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg,
hence the name allspice. It is also called
Pimento or Jamaica pepper.
Cloves: Cloves belong to the order of myrtles.
They are the unopened flower-buds of a plant
called the ' ' Caryophyllus aromaticus, " a native
of the Moluccas. Owing to their resemblance
to a nail they derive their name from the
French word "clou." They form a well-known
spice, and are much used in cookery, both in
sweet and savory dishes. To a stew or ragout,
etc., an onion stuck with cloves is almost indis-
pensable.
Nutmeg: Used extensively for various sea-
sonings, both sweet and savory. It is the seed
of the nutmeg-tree [Myristica moschata], a na-
tive of the Molucca Islands, but is now culti-
vated in Java, Cayenne, Sumatra, and some of
the West Indian Islands. The fruit is sur-
rounded by a husk [arillus], which is known as
mace. The nutmeg is pear-like in appearance,
and is usually grated for culinary purposes.
Nutmegs should never be used in large propor-
tions for seasoning because they are supposed
to contain narcotic properties.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 21
Mace is the outer shell or husk of the nutmeg,
and it resembles it in flavor. When good it
should be orange-yellow in color. Used whole
or powdered for both seasoning and flavoring.
Curry is a condiment and a spice, but is,
strictly speaking, a mixture of many others.
Perhaps only an Indian can make it to perfec-
tion, many of its ingredients being native to
the country, whose poorest peasantry look upon
curry as a daily necessity.
Mustard: There are two varieties of mustard
seeds, "Sinapis nigra," the black, and "Sinapis
alba," the white. These are ground and mixed.
The pungency of mustard is more fully devel-
oped when moistened with water. It is supposed
to give energy to the digestive organs, and to
promote appetite if taken in small quantities.
It is used as a table condiment, and for sauces,
dressings, etc.
Cinnamon: This substance comes from the
bark of a species of laurel, "Laurus Cinna-
momum," and is about the oldest known spice
in the world. The tree is chiefly cultivated in
Ceylon, but cinnamon also comes from Madras,
Java, and Bombay. The three-year-old branches
are stripped of the outer bark, the inner is
loosened and dried, which makes it shrivel up,
and assume the quill form in which it is im-
ported. The best cinnamon should not be too
dark in color, and should be hardly thicker than
paper. It has a fragrant odor, and its taste is
pleasant and highly aromatic. Besides being
used extensively for culinary purposes, cinna-
mon is much employed medicinally as a powerful
stimulant.
Turmeric: Turmeric [Curcuma longa] belongs
to the ginger family, and is extensively culti-
vated in the East Indies as a condiment. The
tubers are dried and then ground to a fine
powder. It enters largely into the composition
of curry powder, and gives it the peculiar odor
and the bright yellow color which that compound
possesses.
Coriander: This is the fruit or so-called seeds
of a plant of Eastern origin [Coriandrum sati-
22 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
vum]. Coriander seeds are used by the confec-
tioner and distiller, and in the manufacture of
curry powder. The leaves have also been used
in soups and salads. They are also used for
flavoring jellies, etc.
Aromatic Spice is a mixture of various flavors,
consisting of pepper, salt, cinnamon, mace, pow-
dered bayleaf, thyme, marjoram, nutmeg, and
cayenne. These are used principally for braised
meats, sautes, ragouts, galantines, vol-au-vents,
game pies, and numerous other preparations.
Pepper: Pepper is produced from the seed or
berries of the plant or shrub known by the
name of "Piper nigrum, " which grows in Mal-
abar and various parts of India. The berry has
a dark brown or black cuticle. "Black pepper "
consists of the dried berries ground whole,
whilst "white pepper" is produced from the
same berries, after their dark husks have been
removed, and ground finely. White pepper is
milder than black pepper.
Pepper was known to the ancient Greeks, and
so highly was it thought of, that when Alaric
besieged Kome in 408 A. D., he included in the
ransom 3,000 pounds of pepper.
As a condiment, pepper is valuable in heighten-
ing the flavor and giving piquancy to savory
dishes, and it behooves a cook to know just
what pepper should be used for each dish, for
by the use or abuse of this sort of seasoning it
is quite possible to make or mar the happiness
of a dinner.
Long Pepper [Piper longum] is a spice similar
in taste and smell to the ordinary pepper in com-
mon use. It is not so pungent; it is mostly
used in making curry powder and in pickles.
The plant on which it grows is a native of East
India.
Mignonette Pepper: This is ordinary white
pepper with the husks removed, and crushed
finely but not ground.
Cayenne Pepper consists of a species of the
dried fruit of capsicums, which is red in color
and grows principally in Cayenne. The pods are
also imported under the name of " chillies. " It
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 23
has a powerful pungent flavor, and is very useful
for flavoring purposes. It also enters into the
composition of curry powder.
The plant has been acclimatized in Europe, and
its pods are used for pickling, and sometimes for
flavoring sauces and stews.
Krona Pepper is a bright red pepper made
from the Hungarian paprika, capsicum pod, etc.
It is much milder than cayenne, and not in the
least pungent. It forms one of the most palata-
ble seasonings for the cuisine and table.
A Pinch of Salt or Pepper: This expression
is much used in cookery; it is therefore neces-
sary, in order to convey a notion of the accurate
quantities of a pinch, to state that a pinch of
salt or pepper should be % of an ounce, and a
small pinch (mostly applied to cayenne) -^ of
an ounce in weight. It would, however, be diffi-
cult and impracticable to make use of the scales
every time a pinch of salt or pepper is required.
The best plan is to ascertain the capacity of
one 's fingers by weighing the quantity they hold,
and then getting accustomed to the exact quan-
tity required for seasoning.
In the matter of spices, as well as of herbs
and soup vegetables, it is best to avoid continu-
ally referring to the scales, to accustom oneself
as much as possible to be able to tell by sight the
weight of the needful quantity of ingredients
required.
Aromatic Herbs and Plants: The following
are the names of herbs and plants mostly used
in the kitchen: Parsley, bay -leaves, thyme,
marjoram, sage, tarragon, chervil, chives, onions,
shallots, garlic, etc. A number of these are used
in a dry state, but either dry or fresh they are
used in a large variety of preparations.
The Bouquet Garni is the mainstay of the
French cuisine, and well it may be; it is more
delicate and subtle than spices or dried condi-
ments are apt to be. Usually the bouquet garni
is composed of sprigs of chervil, chives, thyme,
bay-leaves, tarragon, and parsley.
Parsley possesses a wonderful property of ab-
sorbing or masking the taste of stronger flavor-
24 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
ing ingredients, so much so that an overdose of
this herb is likely to overpower the more deli-
cate aromas of seasonings. There is no herb
which plays such an important part in cookery
as parsley. Not only does it give the finishing
touch to many sauces and stews, but it is the
favorite for garnishing dishes. The curled leaf
parsley is the best and most often used both for
flavor and appearance. Parsley is said to be a
native of Sardinia, but is largely cultivated in
every country in Europe. Powdered parsley is
excellent for a number of dishes for imparting
a most delicate flavor. The process is simple.
Steep some fresh parsley in boiling water for a
few seconds; then drain and put it in a hot
oven for a few minutes to dry. Put through a
sieve and use as required.
Tarragon and Chervil: Tarragon belongs to
the same family as wormwood, and is called by
botanists " Artemisia Dracunculus. " It is sup-
posed to be a native of Siberia. The leaves of
chervil possess a peculiar flavor, which is much
appreciated by many. Of all the pot-herbs,
these two are the most odoriferous, and are much
used in French cookery in entrees and sauces,
and sometimes soups. In salads, salad sauces,
chaud-froid, etc., they also form an important
part. Tarragon-leaves are also used for flavoring
vinegar, which is very largely used in all kitch-
ens and dining-rooms.
Thyme: Thyme belongs to the same family as
mint, the ' ' Labiatae. ' y The leaves of this plant
[Thymus vulgaris] are used fresh or dry for
stuffing, soups, etc. It possesses a highly aro-
matic flavor, and should be used sparingly. The
lemon thyme [Thymus citriodorus] is a smaller
kind, and has a strong perfume like the rind of
lemons, which is very agreeable.
Burnet: The use of this perennial plant has
gone somewhat out of fashion. In former timefl
it made one of the principal ingredients in
claret cup, its leaves, when slightly bruised,
smelling like cucumber. Its modern use is con-
fined to salads, and combined with tarragon,
chives, and chervil, burnet forms the French
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 25
"ravigote. " Although called " pimprenelle " in
French, it must not be confused with the Eng-
lish pimpernel, which is poisonous.
Capsicums: Of these there are several kinds
which are cultivated in the East and West Indies
and in America. They yield a fruit which is
pungent and stimulating, and in Mexico the pods
are called chillies; these are used to make a
hot pickle and chilli vinegar. It is the powder
of the seeds and pods dried that constitutes
cayenne pepper. Capsicums owe their power to
an active principle called capsicin, and are con-
sidered to be very wholesome.
Savory: Of this flavoring herb there are two
varieties, the summer savory [Satureja hor-
tensis] and the winter savory [Satureja mont-
ana]. It was introduced into England in the
seventeenth century. Both varieties are exten-
sively used for flavoring and seasoning purposes.
Marjoram: There are four kinds of marjoram,
but the sweet or knotted marjoram [Origanum
Majorana], a native of Portugal, and introduced
into this country in the sixteenth century, is the
kind generally used in our kitchens. It imparts
a delicious flavor to soups, sauces, stews, etc. In
July the leaves are dried and kept for winter
use.
Mint: Mint belongs to a family of plants
called "Labiatae". The spearmint [Mentha
viridis] cultivated in our gardens has the most
agreeable flavor of the various kinds of mint,
and is the one most generally used in cookery.
It possesses the property of correcting flatu-
lency, hence the custom of using it in pea-soup
and with new potatoes, etc.
Bay-leaves: The leaves of the common laurel
[Prunus Laurocerasus] are employed for culinary
purposes to give a kernel-like flavor to stocks,
mirepoix, sauces, custards, puddings, blanc-
manges, and the milk and water with which
cakes are mixed. They are generally dried for
use.
Basil: This is a favorite herb with the
French cooks; it has a scent very like that of
cloves. Basil for winter use can be obtained
26 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
in bottles, and it is the best herb for clear mock-
turtle and other clear soups made of shell-fish.
It is also used for flavoring vinegar. The mid-
dle of August is the best time for making basil
vinegar.
Onions: The name onion is given to all plants
of the onion tribe, in which we include leek,
garlic and shallot (echalote). The onion is, un-
doubtedly, next to salt, the most valuable of
all flavoring substances used in cookery.
When onions, shallots or garlic are used, they
should always be well blended with other flavors,
so that the peculiar and often objectionable taste
of these cannot be detected.
The smell of the onion, however, is objection-
able to many, whilst others will have it that the
flavor of onion disagrees with them. The question,
therefore arises, how can this be overcome? The
answer is very simple. By thorough cooking
and manipulation the presence of onion in a
stew, soup or sauce may be disguised, retaining
at the same time the essential essence of this
valuable flavoring root. By cunningly con-
cealing the flavor with others in a sauce, stew
or soup, it will yield enjoyment even to those
who would carefully avoid it if they knew it
was there. Whenever onion is used as a condi-
ment or seasoning, and the article is properly
treated as a flavoring substance should be, much
of the objection of an unpleasant smell is re-
moved. Too much attention cannot be bestowed
upon its preparation.
Garlic: This is one of the alliaceous plants.
It consists of a group of several bulbs called
" cloves/' all enclosed in one membranous skin.
When used judiciously and sparingly, garlic is
a most excellent condiment; but with the Eng-
lish taste it seldom finds favor, although many
without knowing it partake of dishes where it
is cunningly concealed. Eubbing the dish once
with a clove of garlic cut in half imparts quite
sufficient flavor; but in Italy and other coun-
tries it is used on a larger scale in fact, it
enters into the composition of nearly every dish.
Garlic is considered to be very wholesome, and
to act as a slight stimulant and tonic.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 27
Shallot: This bulbous root resembles garlic,
and belongs to the same genus. It is a native of
Palestine, and was introduced into England by
the Crusaders. The place in Palestine where
it was first found was Ascalon: hence its botan-
ical name, "Allium ascalonicum. ' ' The shallot
is extremely useful in cookery, especially for
flavoring sauces, vinegar, etc. It is more pun-
gent than garlic, but of more delicate flavor, and
consequently more popular than the former.
Carrots and Turnips: Next to the onion, the
carrot and turnip are considered the most im-
portant flavoring vegetables for soups and sauces.
Carrots were known in the time of Elizabeth,
and in the reign of James I. they were looked
upon as most uncommon and as a luxury, so
much so that ladies wore them as a decoration
in place of feathers upon their hats and sleeves.
Besides their use for flavoring, carrots and tur-
nips are largely used for garnishing certain
dishes, such as ragouts, boiled meats, etc. They
are also served as vegetables by themselves, also
as purees for soups, etc. It will thus be seen
that the humble onion, carrot and turnip are
most important in the preparation of many
dishes; and in addition to these there is the bou-
quet garni, the parsley root, so-called pot-herbs,
and numerous others, each of which has its special
value, the characteristic of which every cook
should be fully acquainted with. But, let me
repeat, strongly flavored herbs, as well as so-
called pot or soup vegetables, should always be
used with moderation and judgment.
Vinegar: Vinegar is derived from a variety
of sources. The best vinegar is the French vin-
aigre d 'Orleans. It is made from white wine;
but common vinegar is mostly prepared from
malt in this country. The uses to which vin-
egar is applied in cookery are very numerous; it
forms the foundation of many sauces, and if
taken with food in small quantity it is said to
assist digestion. If taken, however, in excess,
it is highly injurious. Owing to its antiseptic
and agreeable flavor, it is largely used for pre-
serving vegetable substances known under the
28 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
name of " pickles. " It also has the faculty of
softening the fibres of meat and making them
tender.
Sugar is largely used for fruits of all kinds, and
farinaceous foods; besides seasoning tasteless
things, sugar also affords considerable nutriment.
The value of sugar as a condiment is not always
sufficiently realized. It renders watery and insipid
vegetables more digestible, and in unsuspected
quantities it softens and heightens the flavor
of sauces and ragouts. If mingled with other-
wise insipid food articles, it stimulates the
stomach to a slight degree, and hastens the action
of the digestive organs. Sugar is also found use-
ful in rendering watery vegetables, such as peas,
cucumbers, pumpkins, spinach, cooked endive, etc.,
more digestible, and in the same manner assists
digestion of starchy matters which are used for
soups, sauces, gruel, etc.
Lemons: Lemons play an important part in
sauce and other cookery. The rind, juice, and
essential oil all contain valuable properties. The
rind or peel is used for flavoring a variety of
dishes. As a rule the rind is grated, but the
best way to obtain the largest amount of the
essence from the lemon is to pare the rind with
a very sharp knife as thinly as possible, with-
out encroaching on the white part of the rind,
thus cutting right through the many cells con-
taining the essence. Some cooks obtain the zest
by rubbing the lemon with lumps of sugar. It
is from the rind that the essential oil of lemon
is obtained, which is a more reliable substitute
than fresh lemon peel. The rind preserved with
sugar forms the well-known candied peel.
Vanilla: Vanilla was first discovered by the
Spaniards. It is the fruit of a parasitical plant
an orchid and the best is found in Mexico.
It has a delicious fragrance, and is now largely
used for flavoring puddings, cakes, custards,
liqueurs, chocolate, etc. For flavoring purposes it
is better to use the vanilla pods or vanilla sugar
than the essence of vanilla, the odor of which
quickly escapes.
Ginger: Ginger is the tuber of a perennial
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 29
plant called "Zingiber officinale," growing
chiefly in the West Indies. It is the most gen-
erally used of all spices, and is very agreeable
and wholesome. There are two kinds of ginger
the white and the black. The former is con-
sidered the best, and is prepared by washing
and scalding the tubers, and then scraping them
and drying them in the sun; in black ginger the
scraping process is omitted, it being merely
scalded before being dried. Ginger is much used
in culinary operations, especially by confection-
ers, and it also finds its way into sauces, beer,
spiced wines and other beverages.
HINTS ON STOCK MAKING.
Use only fresh ingredients such as meat, vege-
tables, etc., in proper proportion.
Boil up the stock daily and keep it in earthen-
ware pans, not in metal stewpans or pots.
Remove the fat as soon as it congeals on the
surface of a stock.
The removal of fat is most essential to all
finished stocks and finished sauces alike. Sauces,
no matter what kind, should never be greasy. It
is strongly advisable that stock for sauces should
be prepared the day before it is required.
If this advice be followed a great deal of labor
may be saved, and better results will be ob-
tained. Stock loses nothing if kept for two days,
provided it be put away in clean vessels (earthen-
ware pans).
Stock for Sauces: A great many of the recipes
for sauces direct the use of stock because by its
use they are made much richer and more nourish-
ing than when water is used.
Stock is the liquor in which fresh meat, bones,
and vegetables have been boiled long enough
to extract the goodness therefrom.
To make a useful stock, cut up the meat or
meat trimmings and chop the bones; put them
in a stock-pot or large stewpan and fill up with
cold water, allowing a quart to each pound of
meat and bones; add a little salt, and allow it to
30 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
come to the boil slowly. Then remove the scum,
and add stock vegetables, such as carrot, turnip,
onion, celery leaves, and parsley root if handy, all
of which must have been previously prepared,
cleaned and washed. Cook, i. e., simmer, gently
for about three or four hours, then strain for
use, but be sure that every particle of fat is re-
moved. Almost any kind of meat (cooked or
raw), bones, and gravy from roast meat may be
used for stock making so long as they are fresh
and sweet.
Preparations made from Stocks are summarized
as follows: First stock (bouillon or broth).
Second or general stock (remouillage) ; this is a
refill of the first stock. Essences. Half-glaze
(demi-gla^e) a reduction of first or second
stock; and lastly, glaze.
Fish Stock: This can be made of almost any
kind of fish, but oily fish should be avoided.
Fish broth, all know, is particularly nourishing,
light and digestible. Thick-skinned fish always
make the best broth.
The following is an excellent stock:
Take 2 Ibs. fish and fish bones, set it in a pot
with two quarts of water, an onion stuck with
two cloves, a few peppercorns, mace, and a bou-
quet. Skim as it comes to a boil, and allow it
to reduce to about half its quantity by very slow
simmering. A little white wine or vinegar is
often put with this stock. Wine gives a specially
nice flavor to fish broth. Salt must be added at
the last moment.
AUXILIARY RECIPES FOR SAUCES.
Bouquet garni: This item is used in several
of the sauce recipes; it is often called a bunch
of herbs, or a fagot of sweet herbs, and is much
used in all kinds of meat cookery where savory
flavor is desired. Many people praise the flavor
of French soups and sauces, the delicious aro-
matic flavor of which is generally due to the use
of a bouquet of herbs or a bouquet garni, which
enters largely into the composition of many of
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 31
the French preparations, soups, ragouts and
sauces. To make a bouquet garni, lay upon the
left hand a few branches of fresh parsley well
washed, and place upon this a sprig of thyme,
a sprig of marjoram, a bay-leaf, a sprig of basil,
a celery leaf and a small piece of cinnamon
stick, also a clove of garlic if liked, together
with a small blade of mace and a pepper pod
(long pepper). Fold the parsley round the other
herbs, etc., and tie with a string into a neat little
bunch (bouquet) and use as directed. Excessive
use of strong-smelling herbs or spices must in
all cases be avoided.
Meat Glaze (Glace de Viande): Put 8 quarts
of good stock, white or brown, into a stewpan,
boil up, skim well, and reduce on a moderate
fire from S 1 /^ to 4 hours. It will make barely half
a pint when done. Put into a jar whilst hot,
cover and keep in a dry place, and use as required.
If well made it will keep for a long time.
Duxelle Puree (Eequired: 2 oz. butter, 2 oz.
finely chopped cooked ham, 6 mushrooms, 3 shal-
lots, 1 clove garlic, 1 truffle, 1 glass of white
wine stock, bay-leaf, pepper, salt, nutmeg, alle-
mande sauce).
Chop the mushrooms, shallots, a few sprigs of
parsley, garlic, and the truffle. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, add the ham and the above-named
ingredients, stir over the fire for a few minutes,
moisten with a glass of white wine and a little
stock, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and a
little powdered bay -leaf j when well reduced stir
in four tablespoonfuls of allemande sauce, boil
again, and serve as required.
Fumet of Game (Fumet de Gibier) : Carcass of
game, 1 small carrot, % onion, 1 bay -leaf, 1 sprig
of thyme, 2 oz. raw ham, 1 oz. lard or butter, 1
glass sherry, 1 quart stock.
Chop up the carcass, wash, peel and slice the
carrot, peel and slice the onion. Put the butter
or lard in a stewpan, when hot add the carcass
and ham cut into small pieces, fry a few minutes,
then add the vegetables and herbs. Fry again,
moisten with the wine, cover, and steam a few
minutes, add the stock and cook for twenty min-
utes. Skim, strain, and use as directed.
32 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Chicken Essence (Essence de Volatile) : Ee-
duce 1 quart of chicken stock or consomme over
a slow fire to about half a pint. Skim, strain
into a white pot, and use as required.
Meat Juice: (This is sometimes used to en-
rich certain sauces.) To extract the juice from
meat, a special press is required. The meat in-
tended for this purpose must be very underdone.
Venison and ducks, beef fillets and carcasses,
are frequently treated in this way.
Eaw, lean beef when required for raw beef
juice should be well batted, freed from skin and
fat, and cut into strips before being put into
the press.
Chopped Parsely (Persil hache"): Wash some
parsley, trim off some of the stalks if coarse,
chop as finely as possible, place it in the corner
of a clean cloth, fold the end of the cloth, and
hold tightly under the water-tap or rinse in a
basin of cold water, squeeze out all the water,
and put the parsley on a plate till wanted.
To Chop an Onion: Peel the onion, cut it in
two lengthways, leaving the stalk ends. Com-
mence to slice each half without detaching the
slices from the stalk. Keep firmly together, and
cut through several times crossways; then cut
down horizontally into fine squares, until you
come to the stalk. This is the quickest way to
mince an onion, but it requires practice. The
other way is to peel and chop in the ordinary
manner. When fine enough, wash in cold water,
drain on a cloth, and use as required.
To Chop Mushrooms: If freshly gathered mush-
rooms are used, peel off the skins, trim the stalks,
and wash in cold water; then chop as required
and use immediately.
Preserved mushrooms are well drained, and
then chopped as required.
Liaisons in general (for thickening of sauces) :
There are a number of processes of thickening
soups and sauces, and these are called ' ' liaisons, ' '
in a culinary sense.
Liaison may be composed of flour (fecule,
arrowroot, cornflour, creme-de-riz, etc. ), diluted
in either milk, cream, stock or water, according
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 33
to the nature of the soup or sauce for which it is
re/quired. A liaison should always be strained
before it is mixed with the liquid which requires
thickening, and the preparation be well stirred
whilst the latter is added.
The liaison of egg is frequently used for white
purees, blanquettes, fricassees and white sauces.
Only the yolks of eggs should be used, mixed
with a small quantity of cream, and well beaten.
Such liaison should only be added to the prep-
aration for which it is required when it is
thoroughly cooked; part of the soup or sauce
is poured on to the liaison, stirred and then
all mixed well together.
When once the liaison of egg is added, the
preparation must on no account be allowed to
boil, but only just get thoroughly heated, so
as to form the liaison, thus preventing the eggs
from curdling.
How to Tammy Sauces: Some of the more
delicate compound sauces are frequently strained
through a tammy cloth, so as to render them as
smooth or creamlike as possible. To effect this
process two persons are needed who take hold
of the tammy cloth on both ends; the liquid or
puree to be passed is then poured in the cloth,
each holds a wooden spoon with the right hand
and the end of the cloth with the left hand, and
both spoons are pressed backward and forward,
in regular motion, till the bulk of the liquid has
passed through.
Liquid Caramel: (for coloring sauces.) Put
a pound of loaf, castor or moist sugar into a
copper stewpan or sugar -boiler. Add about half
a gill of water, and let it dissolve slowly, then
stir over a slow fire and cook until a dark brown
color; when a whitish smoke appears it is a
sign that the sugar is done. Eemove it from
the fire, pour on about a pint of boiling water,
allow this to boil up whilst stirring, and cook till
it has the appearance of a syrup; when cool put
it in a corked bottle and use as required.
Caramel should be used with discretion. Good
cooks rarely use it, for it is apt to impart a
bitter taste if used too freely. It is principally
used for coloring, gravies and sauces.
34 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Aspic or Savory Jelly: (used for certain Cold
sauces for chaud froids, etc): Eequired: 1 quart
clear stock or water, 2^ oz. gelatine, the juice
of 1 lemon and its rind, % gill sherry, % gill tar-
ragon vinegar, % gill French wine or Orleans vine-
gar, 1 small bunch of herbs, (bouquet garni), 1
small onion sliced, 1 bay-leaf, 10 peppercorns,
10 allspice, 1 blade of mace, a few celery leaves,
% small carrot, sliced, % teaspoonful salt, the
whites and shells of 2 eggs.
See that all the ingredients are ready and
the vegetables clean. Whisk up lightly the
whites of eggs with the shells, and put them,
together with the remainder of the above-named
ingredients, into a well-tinned stewpan, stir with
a whisk over the fire, and bring it thus slowly
to boil. Eemove the whisk and draw the stew-
pan away from the fire, and allow it to simmer
gently on the side of the stove for about twenty
minutes. Strain through a clean cloth previously
steeped in boiling water and tied over a soup
stand or the legs of a stool upside down; or
pass it through a warm jelly-bag; if not clear
at first, pass it through a second or third time.
The aspic is then ready for use. This aspic is
suitable for borders or decorative purposes; if
required for other purposes, 2 ounces of gela-
tine will be found sufficient.
SAVOEY OE COMPOUND SAUCES
Used for Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game and Certain
Vegetables.
Admiral Sauce (Sauce a rAmiral): To one
pint of rich white sauce (veloute or allemande)
add 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped capers, 1
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped
lemon rind, the juice of half a lemon, and a
teaspoonful of anchovy essense. Eeheat and
serve hot.
Aigre-Douce Sauce: % pint poivrade sauce, 1
tablespoonful red-currant jelly, 2 tablespoonfuls
cream.
To the poivrade sauce add the red-currant jelly,
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 35
boil up and skim, then stir in the cream, reheat
without boiling again, season to taste and use as
required. This sauce is especially suitable for
roast game, etc.
Albany Sauce: Peel thinly one small cucum-
ber, cut it into small pieces, cook till tender in
salted water, then drain, and rub through a fine
sieve. When cold stir in a puree made with one
teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a tablespoonful
of tarragon vinegar, a dessertspoonful of chut-
ney, a dessertspoonful of finely chopped gherkins,
half a pint of mayonnaise, half a gill of aspic
jelly, half a gill of cream, paprika pepper, a little
salt, and a pinch of castor sugar. Mix all well
together and add a few drops of spinach greening
to give it a green tint.
Albert Sauce: Prepare a Sauce Bernaise, but
substitute the tarragon with a few finely-chopped
leaves of green mint, and add a little finely-
grated horse-radish.
Albufera Sauce: Prepare a rich supreme sauce,
and flavor it with liquefied meat extract or glaze.
Allemande Sauce: 1% oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 2
yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 tea-
spoonful lemon juice, chicken stock, nutmeg,
salt, pepper.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour,
stir a few minutes without allowing it to brown,
dilute with rather more than a pint of chicken
stock, and stir until it boils. Season with pepper
and salt and grated nutmeg. Let it simmer for
half an hour, skim, and finish with liaison made
of the yolks of eggs, the cream, and l /o oz. of
fresh butter. Stir over the fire until the eggs
begin to set, but do not let it boil; add the lemon
juice, and pass through fine strainer or tammy
cloth.
American Sauce (Sauce Americaine) : Heat up
some tomato sauce and blend it with lobster
butter sufiicient to flavor and color, which must
be whisked in.
Anchovy Sauce (Sauce Anchois): 1 oz. butter,
% oz. flour, y 2 pint milk, *4 pint fish stock, 1
dessertspoonful anchovy essence.
'36 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour,
mix well and cook a little. Add by degrees the
milk and the fish stock. Stir till it boils, and
let cook for 10 minutes. Incorporate a small
dessertspoonful of anchovy essence, boil up again
and strain.
Another Way: Heat up half a pint of bechamel
or hollandaise sauce, and stir in one teaspoonful
of anchovy essence.
Anchovy Cream (Creme d'Anchois): Whip up
a gill of cream and add to it a tablespoonful of
anchovy essence, a teaspoonful of made mustard,
a pinch of paprika pepper, and if liked a few
drops of liquid carmine. When sufficiently
whipped put the cream into a sauceboat, and
serve with grilled or boiled fish such as salmon,
turbot or soles.
Anchovy Egg Sauce (Sauce anchois aux
oeuf s) : Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, stir
in 1 oz. of flour and cook without browning;
then add 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, half
a pint of boiling milk, and a similar quantity of
white stock; stir until the sauce is smooth.
Next add a fine-chopped hard-boiled egg, a pinch
of cayenne, and about 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Aspic Mayonnaise: % pint aspic jelly, 1 gill
stiff mayonnaise.
Dissolve the aspic and let it get partially cool,
then stir it gently into the mayonnaise and use
before it begins to set, according to direction.
Aspic a la Tomate (Tomato Aspic) : 1 pint as-
pic jelly, 4 small ripe tomatoes or % pint tomato
pulp, % oz. French leaf gelatine, 1 dessertspoon-
ful sherry.
Blanch and peel the tomatoes, rub through a
fine hair sieve, dissolve the gelatine, and add
to the pulp. Put the jelly, tomato pulp, and
sherry in a stew pan, boil up, skim well, and sim-
mer for a few minutes; pass all through a fine
hair sieve, and use as directed.
Aurora Sauce: 1 pint of bechamel sauce, 2 oz.
butter, 1 oz. lobster butter, y 2 gill cream, 1
dessertspoonful tarragon vinegar, cayenne.
Put the bechamel sauce in a stewpan, add the
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 37
butter, a pinch of cayenne, cream, tarragon vine-
gar, and lobster butter. Stir well over boiling
water till hot, but without letting the sauce
boil.
Aurora Sauce (No. 2) : Mix a gill of bechamel
sauce with the juice of half a lemon, a table-
spoonful of mushroom liquor, and half a gill of
cream. Stir over the fire till it boils, then add
two hard-boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve,
and finish with an ounce of lobster butter or
crayfish butter.
Avignonese Sauce (Sauce Avignonnaise) : This
consists of bechamel sauce enriched with yolks
of eggs and grated parmesan, to which is added
chopped parsley; a flavor of shallots or garlic
is liked by some, and incorporated accordingly.
Ayola Sauce: This consists of a mayonnaise
flavored with finely crushed garlic just sufficient
to taste, and lemon juice.
Batarde Sauce (Hot): This consists of Eng-
lish melted butter sauce enriched with chicken
veloutee and flavored with lemon juice.
Batarde Sauce (Cold) : Prepare a Bearnaise
sauce, flavor it with fish essence or fumet de
poisson enriched with tomato pure"e and anchovy
butter.
Bavaroise Sauce: Prepare a Hollandaise or
Dutch sauce, and stir in some whipped cream
and sufficient crayfish butter to flavor and color.
Bearnaise Sauce: % gill tarragon vinegar, 3
shallots finely chopped, 6 peppercorns, crushed, 4
yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of white sauce,
4 oz. butter, 1 sprig thyme, meat glaze, and
lemon- juice.
Put the shallots, peppercorns and thyme with
the vinegar in a stewpan, cover and boil until
well reduced, remove the thyme, add the sauce
and a little dissolved meat glaze. Whisk in the
yolks of eggs, taking care not to let the sauce
boil, remove the stewpan from the fire, and work
in by degrees the butter. Only a little butter
must be added at a time, otherwise the sauce
will get oily. Strain through a pointed strainer
or tammy. A little finely chopped fresh tarragon
38 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
and chervil, and a few drops of lemon-juice may
be added after the sauce is strained.
Bearnaise Sauce (Brune) : Prepare an ordinary
Bearnaise as above, with the addition of meat
glaze to give it a brown color.
Bearnaise Sauce (Tomatee): Same as above,
adding tomato puree in place of meat glaze.
Bechamel Sauce (White Sauce): Dissolve one
ounce of butter in a small stewpan, add one
ounce of flour; stir over the fire for a few min-
utes, just long enough to cook the flour, without
allowing it to brown. Stir in a pint of boiling
milk; add a small onion stuck with a clove, ten
white peppercorns, half a bay -leaf , a sliced carrot,
a pinch of salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir
until it boils, and allow to simmer for fifteen
minutes. Pass through a tammy cloth or nap-
kin, return to the stewpan, and finish with a
small piece of butter, and half a teaspoonful of
lemon juice.
Bechamel Sauce (another way) : 1% oz. flour,
2 oz. butter, 1 }4 pint of milk, and white meat
stock, 1 small onion or shallot, 1 small bouquet
garni, 10 peppercorns, % a bay-leaf, 1 small blade
of mace, seasoning.
Put the milk on to boil with the onion or
shallot (peeled) the bouquet, peppercorns, mace,
and bay-leaf. Melt the butter, stir in the flour
and cook a little without browning (or use white
roux) stir in the milk, etc., (hot), whisk over
the fire until it boils, and let simmer from fifteen
to twenty minutes. Take out the bouquet, rub
through a sieve or tammy, return to the stewpan,
season lightly with a pinch of nutmeg, half-
pinch of cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of salt.
The sauce is then ready for use.
Bechamel Sauce (Maigre): Proceed the same
as above directed, omitting the meat stock, and
using in its place milk and fish stock or milk and
vegetable stock or water.
Beef Marrow Sauce (Sauce Moelle de Boeuf ) :
Blend some Espagnole sauce with fried shallot,
and add blanched beef marrow previously cut in
thin slices, also some finely chopped parsley, a
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 39
little chili vinegar and red pepper to taste.
Serve hot.
Beefsteak Sauce : Prepare a light brown sauce
of the demi-glace type to which chopped onion
and parsley have been added. Enrich this with
meat glaze and butter, and flavor with sherry
and lemon juice.
Bercy Sauce: Keduce iy 2 gills of fish stock to
about one-third its quantity, then add 1 chopped
shallot, previously tossed in butter, 1 glass white
wine, 1 teaspoonful of meat or fish glaze, and
reduce again, and add l /2 gill of veloute sauce,
and the juice of }4 lemon. Tammy and return
to the stewpan, finish with 1 oz. of herb butter
and serve.
NOTE: The herb butter is made with finely
chopped fennel, tarragon, chervil, and parsley,
and fresh butter.
Beurre-Noir Sauce (Black Butter Sauce) : 1%
oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley,
% teaspoonful vinegar.
Put the butter in an omelette pan, fry over a
quick fire until it acquires a nut-brown color,
then add the vinegar and parsley. Pour over the
article to be served.
Bigarade Sauce: Proceed the same as for or-
ange sauce, but substitute a Seville orange for
a sweet one. Use only half the rind, and boil
at least for ten minutes. Omit red-currant
jelly, and add a glass of port wine in its place.
Blanquette Sauce: This sauce is made the
same as Sauce Allemande, adding three table-
spoonfuls of cream instead of one.
Bohemian Sauce (Bohemienne Sauce) : Prepare
a white sauce with freshly-made breadcrumbs,
milk and white stock, stir in fresh butter and
finely grated horseradish to flavor, then season
with pepper and salt if needed.
Good Woman Sauce (Bonne Femme Sauce):
Chop finely one small peeled onion or 3 shallots,
blend this in butter in a saucepan, and add half
a pint of fish stock. Boil up and reduce with
half a pint of Bechamel sauce, then thicken with
2 egg-yolks, season to taste, and flavor with lemon
40 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
juice; finish the sauce with a little whipped
cream.
Bonnefoy Sauce: This consists of a light, well
flavored bordelaise sauce (claret flavored brown
sauce), into which a little fresh butter, some
finely chopped parsley, and puree of beef marrow
have been incorporated.
Bordelaise Sauce: % pint espagnole or brown
sauce, 1 wineglassful red wine, 2 finely chopped
shallots, y 2 oz. meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful chopped
herbs (parsley, tarragon and chervil) a pinch
of sugar, salt and pepper.
Put the wine and shallots in a stewpan, re-
duce to half, add the sauce, and cook slowly for
twenty minutes. Take off the scum, add the
chopped herbs and meat glaze. Season with
sugar, salt and pepper. Give it one more boil,
and keep hot in the bain-marie until required.
Bordelaise Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a saucepan
a gill of claret, 4 finely chopped and peeled
shallots, a few peppercorns, a bayleaf, and a
sprig of thyme. Cover, and let it reduce to about
half its volume, then add % of a pint of
Espagnole or other rich brown sauce. Reduce a
little and strain into another saucepan. Stir or
whisk in a pat of fresh butter, and a large
tablespoonful of beef marrow, previously cut into
small dice and poached. The sauce is then ready.
NOTE: In most cases where Bordelaise sauce
is used, and especially so with beef, some thin,
round slices of beef marrow are blanched and put
on the meat before it is served, or else heated
up in the sauce.
Bordeaux Sauce: Peel and mince finely two
shallots, reduce with 1 gill of claret with y 2 a
teaspoonful of crushed white peppercorns, a
sprig of thyme, and a sprig of marjoram. When
about half reduced, add 1 gill of espagnole sauce,
and boil for 10 minutes, then strain, re-heat, and
whisk in 1 teaspoonful of anchovy or crayfish
butter. Season to taste, and use as directed.
Bread Sauce (Sauce au Pain): 4 oz. fresh
bread-crumbs, 1 small onion, 1 clove, 4 pepper-
corns, 1 pint of milk, y 2 oz. fresh butter, salt, 2
tablespoonfuls cream.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 41
Peel the onion, stick in it the clove, put the
onion and milk in a saucepan, boil up, add the
bread-crumbs and the peppercorns, cook for fif-
teen minutes. Remove the onions and pepper-
corns, stir in the cream and butter, season with
a pinch of salt, and keep hot until required for
serving. If liked the onion may be cooked
longer, passed through a sieve, and added to the
sauce; the cream can be omitted; if found too
thick, a little hot water can be added. Bread
sauce is usually served with roast fowl, turkey
and game birds.
Bread Sauce (No. 2) : Peel, slice and mince
very finely a small onion; simmer till quite soft
in a pint of milk; strain it over about 6 ounces
of stale bread, free from crust and broken up
small; let it soak for an hour, beat up with a
fork, and season with a little nutmeg or ground
mace, cayenne and salt. Lastly add an ounce of
butter and bring gradually to the boil, stirring
all the time.
Bread Sauce (No. 3) : Insert two cloves into a
small peeled onion, put it into a stewpan with
a pint of milk, and let it infuse over a gentle
heat for 30 minutes. Take out the onion, add
a small cup of breadcrumbs, and season to taste
with salt and pepper; boil gently for five min-
utes, stirring continually, then add half an ounce
of butter and a tablespoonful of cream; stir and
blend all thoroughly, then serve.
Bread Sauce (No. 4) : Put half a pint of milk
into a saucepan, to this add the crumb of a din-
ner roll and a small peeled onion; bring slowly
to the boil, stirring occasionally, and cook for
10 minutes. Take out the onion, add an ounce
of butter, and season to taste with salt and
cayenne and a grate of nutmeg. Beat up well
till quite smooth still over the fire, and then
serve.
Breton Sauce (Sauce Bretonne): Prepare a
pint of brown onion sauce in the usual way, blend
it with tomato sauce, and thicken with a little
haricot bean puree.
Brown Butter Sauce (Beurre Noir): Take 3
ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of minced
42 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
parsley, a small dessertspoonful of flour, 3 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, pepper and salt to taste.
Mix the butter, flour and parsley together, then
put this into a saucepan and stir until it is
melted, add salt and pepper to taste and lastly
the vinegar, and stir over a rather hot stove for
ten minutes.
Brown Fish Sauce (Sauce Brune pour Poisson) :
% Ib. fish bones, etc., 1% oz. butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful of flour, one tablespoonful English corn-
flour, 1 gill claret (optional), three-quarters
pint fish stock or water, 1 sliced onion, 1 small
bunch savory herbs (bouquet garni), 4 mush-
rooms, salt and pepper to taste.
Fry the fish-bones, etc., in the butter over a
quick fire, add the onion and fry also, stir in the
flour and cornflour, and let the flour get brown
whilst stirring; add the carrot, herbs, and mush-
rooms, and moisten with the claret and the
stock. Stir till it boils and let simmer for
twenty minutes. Pass through a tammy cloth
or fine sieve, season to taste, and serve. If liked
the mushrooms may be chopped finely and put
into the sauce at the last.
Cold Bulgarian Sauce No. 2 (Bulgare Sauce):
This can also be made with a cold tomato sauce,
blended with a little mayonnaise, with the addi-
tion of a little finely shredded or chopped cooked
celery.
Burgundy Sauce (Bourguignonne Sauce) : This
is a brown sauce composed of Espagnole sauce,
to which finely minced onions and parsley, re-
duced in Burgundy wine, flavored with thyme,
bay-leaf, cloves and mace, have been added.
Strain or tammy the sauce, season to taste and
serve hot.
Butter Sauce (Sauce au beurre): Put 1^
ounces of butter into a stewpan, together with
a grate of nutmeg, and 2 saltspoonfuls of mig-
nonette pepper. When the butter is hot add
1 oz. of flour, and cook gently whilst stirring,
taking care that the flour does not brown. When
thoroughly cooked add not quite 1 pint of boil-
ing milk, stirring all the time until it forms the
consistency of ordinary white sauce; if strong
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 43
flour is used it will take a little more moisture.
Eeduce a little, and then add gradually 4 to 6
ounces of fresh butter, stirring quickly during
this operation. Should the sauce appear to turn
oily, add a spoonful of cold water, flavor with a
little lemon juice and salt, and pass through
a tammy. This sauce can be used as foundation
for a number of sauces, but it should not be
made too long before it is required to be used.
Creamed Butter Sauce (Beurre Cremeuse
Sauce) : Beat or whisk 3 egg yolks and add 4
ozs. of butter, stir into it sufficient richly fla-
vored boiling stock. Stir over hot water till a
cream-like sauce is obtained.
Byron Sauce: Eeduce half a pint of demi-
glace sauce with a gill of claret, then add 2 finely
chopped truffles, and season to taste.
Calvllle Sauce: Strain the juice of a lemon
and an orange into a clean saucepan, to this add
4 tablespoonfuls of demi-glace or other well-
flavored thin brown sauce, a few drops of liquid
carmine, a pinch of paprika pepper, half an
ounce of meat glaze, and two finely chopped
peeled shallots; bring to the boil, skim, add a
wine-glass of dry port or Burgundy wine, and a
teaspoonful of castor sugar. Serve hot with
roast birds, such as teal, sarcelle, or wild duck.
Cambridge Sauce (excellent with Cold Meat or
Salad) : 4 eggs, 4 fillets of anchovies, 1 table-
spoonful of capers, 1 dessertspoonful French mus-
tard, 1 teaspoonful English mustard, 2 tablespoon-
fuls olive oil, 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar,
tarragon and chervil, cayenne, parsley or olives.
Pound in a mortar the hard-boiled yolks of
eggs, anchovies, capers, a sprig of tarragon and
chervil; then add French mustard, English mus-
tard, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and moisten
with the olive oil and tarragon vinegar. Rub
the whole through a fine tammy or hair sieve,
stir in a little more oil and vinegar, and work
to the desired consistency; keep it on the ice till
wanted, and add a little chopped parsley or olives
just before serving. No salt is needed, on ac-
count of the anchovies used in making this sauce.
44 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Cambridge Sauce (Cold) : To a pint of mayon-
naise sauce, add a tablespoonful of parsley
puree, a dessertspoonful of finely chopped capers,
and a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. Mix well,
and flavor with a little made mustard.
Canopere Sauce: This consists of a hot fish
sauce made with fish, court-bouillon and blond
roux, enriched with sufficient crayfish butter to
flavor and color.
Caper Sauce (Sauce aux Capres): % pint
melted butter sauce, 1 tablespoonful capers, %
tablespoonful vinegar.
Mix with the melted butter sauce a table-
spoonful of capers and the vinegar. Boil up and
serve with boiled fish, mutton, etc.
Brown Caper Sauce (Sauce aux Capres brune) :
A brown sauce, espagnole or demi-glace contain-
ing coarsely chopped capers, seasoned with nut-
meg and black pepper.
Cardinal Sauce: % pint veloutee or bechamel
sauce, 1 oz. butter, juice of % lemon, % oz.
lobster coral or one oz. lobster butter, one
dessertspoonful meat glaze, % gill mushroom
liquor, salt, pepper, nutmeg.
Eeduce the sauce with the mushroom liquor,
season with salt, pepper, and a grate of nutmeg;
add the lemon-juice, and whisk in the butter and
lobster butter or coral, the latter finely chopped.
Strain or tammy. Eeturn to the stewpan and
add the meat glaze, stir till smooth, and keep hot
in the bain-marie till required.
NOTE: When this sauce is required for
maigre dishes use bechamel maigre sauce in place
of veloutee. Omit the meat glaze and add in its
place ^4 gill of cream.
Celery Sauce: Trim and wash the white part
of a large head of celery, peel a good-sized onion,
cut both up small and boil in salted water till
tender, drain, and chop very finely. Rub the
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve,
and mix with half a teacupful of cream and a
little white stock, add the celery and onion, and
a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar. Season to taste
with salt and pepper and serve hot or cold.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 45
Celery Cream Sauce (Creme de Celeri): 1
small head of celery, 1 pint milk, 1 oz. butter,
1 oz. flour, a little cream, salt, pepper, and
nutmeg.
Eemove the best part of the celery, wash well,
blanch it, drain and steep in cold water; cut the
celery into small pieces, put in a stewpan with
the milk, diluted with a little cold stock, add
some salt, boil up, skim, and cook till tender.
Meanwhile prepare a white roux, i. e. dissolve
the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir
over the fire until the latter is cooked without
browning; then add gradually the celery and
stock, let boil a little longer, pass through a
tammy cloth, return to the stewpan. Season to
taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir over
the fire until it boils, then add a little cream, and
keep in the bain-marie until required.
Champagne Sauce: % pint of espagnole sauce,
1 glass of champagne, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns,
1 bay-leaf.
Put the cloves, peppercorns, bay-leaf, and
espagnole sauce into a stewpan on the fire; let
it reduce a little, add the champagne, and the
essence remaining from the braised ham. Reduce
the whole for ten minutes, or longer if found
too thin. Strain through a pointed strainer and
serve with braised ham.
White Mushroom Sauce (Sauce Champignons,
Blanche): iy 2 gill bechamel sauce, 1% gill
white stock, 10 mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful
lemon-juice, white wine, 1 tablespoonful cream.
Boil together the bechamel sauce and the veal
stock (or other white stock), and reduce to about
half its original quantity. Skim well and add the
preserved mushrooms cut into slices, 1 tablespoon-
ful of mushroom liquor, lemon-juice, and about
half a gill of Chablis or other white wine. Let
the whole boil, season to taste, then add one
tablespoonful of cream, and serve.
Brown Mushroom Sauce (Sauce Champignons,
forune) : % pint demi-glace sauce, 1 glass sherry,
and 10 champignons (preserved mushrooms).
Chop finely the preserved mushrooms (cham-
pignons), put them in a small stewpan with a
46 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
little of the liquor and the sherry, cover and
allow to reduce well. Now add the demi-glace or
thin espagnole sauce; boil up, skim, season to
taste, and use as required.
Chasseur Sauce: % pint Madere sauce, % gill
game liquor (fumet), lemon-juice, and 1 to 2
livers of game.
Chop the liver finely and cook with the sauce
and liquor of game for about ten minutes, season
to taste, add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice and
serve.
Cliasseur Royal Sauce: 1 small onion, bay-leaf,
parsley, thyme, marjoram, 10 peppercorns, 1 glass
port wine, */!> pint espagnole sauce, 1 teaspoonful
anchovy essence, y 2 gill of double cream.
Chop the bones of the fish used, and put in a
stewpan with the trimmings of the oysters, the
sliced onion, bay-leaf, sprig of parsley and thyme,
and a sprig of marjoram.
Moisten with the port wine, let it reduce to
half the original quantity. Keep well covered
during the process. Now add the crushed pep-
percorns, anchovy essence, and espagnole sauce,
or 1 gill of brown stock. Simmer for twenty
minutes, remove the scum, and pass through a
tammy cloth or very fine pointed strainer. Re-
turn to the stewpan, add a little seasoning if
needed, and finish with % gill of double cream.
Keep very hot, but not boiling, and use as
directed.
Chateaubriand Sauce (also called Crapaudine
Sauce) : 1 gill Chablis or Sauterne wine, 2
cloves, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 shallots, 12 pepper-
corns, about 1% gill meat glaze, the juice of y 2
lemon, 2 oz. butter, and % teaspoonful chopped
tarragon.
Peel and chop the shallots, put them with the
wine, cloves, thyme, and crushed peppercorns in
a small stewpan, cover and reduce to half its
quantity, strain into another stewpan, add the
lemon-juice. Work in the meat glaze and butter
bit by bit (keep the stewpan in the bain-marie),
add the tarragon last of all. Whisk well, and
serve very hot with fillet steak, Chateaubriand,
etc.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 47
Chaud-froid Sauce, Blanche (White Chaud-
froid Sauce) : % pint bechamel or supreme
sauce, 1 gill aspic, 5 or 6 leaves French gelatine,
1 gill cream, 1 teaspoonful chili vinegar or lemon-
juice.
Dissolve the gelatine along with the aspic jelly,
warm up the sauce, and mix the two together.
Stir over the fire until it boils, put in vinegar
or lemon-juice, and cook for a few minutes.
Strain or tammy; add the cream when cooling,
and use as required.
Chaud-froid Sauce, Blonde (Fawn Chaud-froid
Sauce): y 2 pint aspic jelly, 1 gill allemande
sauce, 1/2 gill cream, 1 tablespoonful espagnole
sauce, y% oz. French leaf gelatine, a glass of
Madeira wine, pepper and salt.
Melt the aspic jelly in a stewpan, add the wine,
espagnole, and allemande sauce, let it come to a
boil, and skim. Soak the gelatine in cold water,
squeeze it well, and put with the sauce; when dis-
solved, stir in the cream, pass through a tammy
cloth or fine strainer, and use as directed.
Chaud-froid Sauce, Brune (Brown Chaud-froid
Sauce) : y pint espagnole or salmi sauce, 1 glass
Madeira or sherry, % pint aspic, 4 leaves French
gelatine, and cream.
Boil up the sauce. Dissolve the gelatine with
the aspic, mix both together, add the wine, let
simmer for a few minutes, and pass through a
tammy cloth, add a little cream, and flavor to
taste.
Chaud-froid Sauce, Green or Pink: Prepare a
white chaud-froid sauce, to which add a few
drops of spinach greening to give it a green tint,
or a few drops of liquid carmine or cochineal
to give it a rose or pink tint.
Chestnut Sauce (Savoury): Par-roast % a
pound of previously slit chestnuts, and remove
the outer skin, then put them in a saucepan of
boiling water, and cook until the inner skins can
be easily removed. When this is done, stew
the chestnuts in seasoned milk till tender, then
rub through a sieve. Season to taste with salt
and pepper, and dilute the puree with a little
rich gravy; reheat, and serve with roast turkey,
48 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
or as a sauce with grilled and devilled legs of
a cold roast bird.
Chestnut Sauce (Savoury or Sweet): Slit a
dozen chestnuts and boil them in water, then
drain and remove both shell and skin from the
chestnuts. Next put them in a saucepan with
a glass of claret, and a gill of water, cover, and
cook till tender, then rub through a sieve. Ee-
heat the puree with enough seasoned stock to
form a sauce, season with a pinch of cayenne
and a grate of nutmeg.
Note: If the sauce is required sweet, use
syrup in place of stock, and omit the cayenne.
Venison Sauce (Chevreuil Sauce): y 2 pint
espagnole sauce, 1 glass port wine, 1 dessert-
spoonful red-currant jelly, 1 oz. lean ham, 1 oz.
butter, % gill vinegar, 1 small onion, 12 pepper-
corns, 1 bay-leaf, ^ small carrot, thyme, parsley.
Mince finely the onion and ham, fry these in
the butter, and add the vinegar, crushed pepper-
corns, bay -leaf, minced carrot, and a little thyme
and chopped parsley. Cover and boil for ten
minutes. Then add the espagnole sauce, port
wine, and the red-currant jelly. Cook for ten
minutes, skim and strain, season to taste, re-heat,
and use as required.
Chutney Sauce: Make a sauce the same as
directed for venison sauce, omitting the red cur-
rant jelly, and adding instead one heaped-up
tablespoonful of mango chutney, which must be
chopped up rather finely.
Brown Herb Sauce (Colbert Sauce aux Fines
Herbes). iy 2 gill espagnole sauce, 1 glass of
Madeira wine, 1 tablespoonful of meat glaze,
1% oz. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice,
chopped parsley, tarragon, and chervil one des-
sertspoonful in all.
Put the sauce into a small stewpan, stir over
the fire until hot, add the wine, and let boil a
few minutes. Remove to the side of the stove,
and stir in 'gradually the butter and the meat
glaze. Beat up with a small whisk, but do not
let it boil again. Last of all add the lemon-juice
and the chopped herbs. Serve as directed. If
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 49
desired richer, % oz. more butter may be added
in the manner described.
Cream Sauce (Sauce a la Creme): Put into a
saucepan the yolks of two eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of veloute or other
rich white sauce, and whisk in half an ounce of
fresh butter; season with a pinch of salt and
paprika pepper, and lastly add a teaspoonful of
lemon juice. Stir or whisk, and cook in a bain
marie till it becomes of a creamlike consistency.
Aspic or Savory Cream (Creme a r Aspic):
% gill bechamel or allemande sauce, 1 teaspoon-
ful tarragon vinegar, y 2 pint aspic jelly, 1 gill
double cream, cayenne, mignonette pepper.
Warm up the bechamel or allemande sauce,
add the tarragon vinegar, stir this into the liquid
aspic jelly, mix with it the cream, season with a
pinch of cayenne and mignonette pepper. Pass
through a sieve or tammy cloth, and use as
directed.
Cold Cucumber Sauce (Sauce aux Concombres) :
% cucumber, % gill bechamel sauce, y 2 gill
cream, 1 gill mayonnaise sauce, salt, pepper to
taste, spinach greening.
Peel thinly the cucumber and cut into small
pieces, boil in salted water till tender, and rub
through a hair sieve. Eeturn the pulp to the
stewpan, add the bechamel sauce; let it reduce
to about half the original quantity, and let it
cool. Whip the cream until stiff; work in the
mayonnaise sauce, and mix slowly with the re-
duced cold sauce, add a little salt and pepper
if needed, also a few drops of spinach greening.
The sauce is then ready for use.
Cucumber Sauce Na. 2 (Sauce aux Concom-
bres) : Peel a small or half a large cucumber,
cut it into pieces, and boil till tender in salted
water or white stock. Drain well, and rub it
through a fine sieve. Put the pulp into a small
stewpan, and let reduce to half its quantity with
a gill of Bechamel sauce; season to taste, strain
again, and add to it % tablespoonful of Mayon-
naise sauce, into this stir the cold cucumber
puree, and place on the ice. Whip up y 2 gill of
cream. The sauce is then ready for serving.
50 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Cucumber Sauce, Hot (Sauce aux Concombres,-
chaude) is made in the same way, by omitting
the mayonnaise and adding an extra quantity of
hot bechamel sauce. Cook for ten minutes before
serving.
Crab Sauce: Eemove the meat from a crab
and shred it finely, then season with salt and
paprika pepper. Put it in a saucepan containing
a pint of melted butter sauce, and let it simmer
for ten minutes. Serve hot.
Cranberry Sauce: Wash and drain half a pint
of cranberries, and cook them in a stewpan with
half a pint of water and one ounce of castor
sugar; when sufficiently tender, pass them
through a fine sieve, then mix with the pure"e a
gill of cooked apple pulp, season to taste, and
use when cold.
Cumberland Sauce (a Cold Game Sauce): 2
shallots, 1 orange, 1 lemon, 1 dessertspoonful mus-
tard, % gill port wine, ground ginger, 2 table-
spoonfuls red-currant jelly, 2 tablespoonfuls
vinegar, salt^ pepper, cayenne.
Mince the shallots, put them in a stewpan with,
the thin rinds of the lemon and orange cut into
fine Julienne strips. Add half a gill of water
and cook for ten minutes, then strain and return
to the stewpan, adding the mixed mustard, port
wine, a pinch of ground ginger, red-currant jelly,
the juice of the lemon and orange, and the vine-
gar. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of
cayenne, boil up, strain, and serve cold with any
kind of game or ducks. A gill of espagnole sauce
added improves this sauce.
Cumberland Sauce No. 2: Cut very thinly the
outer rind of an orange, then cut the strips into
fine shreds. Put them into a small earthenware
saucepan (casserole), pour over half- a glass of
dry port wine, and place on the side of the stove
to get warm, then allow to cool and stir in
about a teaspoonful of mixed English mustard, a
good pinch of salt, and the strained juice of
the orange. Next melt about 2 ounces of red
currant jelly and stir into the above. A very
small quantity of spice such as cayenne or
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 51
paprika pepper may be added if liked. This is
considered essential by many chefs.
Currie Sauce: Prepare the following: Peel 1
onion, scrape finely 1 small carrot, peel 1 small
apple and chop all up very small. Fry these in
a saucepan with 1 ounce of butter, then add 1
tablespoonful of curry powder and half a pint
of tomato puree or sauce. Season to taste with
salt and pepper, then add a good ladle of
espagnole sauce. Boil for several minutes, pass
through a fine strainer, then add a little chopped
gherkin and some finely chopped parsley.
Curry Sauce: Peel and slice a small onion,
scrape and slice a small carrot, fry both together
in half an ounce of butter; when the onion has
acquired a light brown color, add one table-
spoonful of mild curry powder and stir for a few
seconds. Next add a small peeled and chopped
apple, moisten with half a gill of tomato pulp
and a gill of brown sauce. Allow to boil for a
few minutes. Season to taste, and pass it
through a fine strainer. Reheat and stir in last
of all a finely chopped pickled gherkin.
Danish Sauce (Sauce Danoise) : 2 oz. butter,
1 oz. flour, 1 glass sherry, ^ gill Chablis or
Sauterne, 1 pint fish stock, ^ oz. grated Parme-
san, 2 teaspoonfuls meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful
anchovy essence, 1 gill cream, ^ oz. lobster
coral, salt and pepper.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour,
let it cook a few minutes without taking color.
Moisten with the wine and fish stock. Stir
until it boils, then add the anchovy essence, meat
glaze, and grated cheese. Season to taste with
pepper and salt, let simmer gently for a few
minutes, skim and pass through a fine sieve.
Eeturn to a clean stewpan and bring to a boil.
Work in the cream and lobster coral or lobster
butter. Keep hot, but do not let it boil again.
Serve with dressed fish salmon, turbot, soles, or
lobster.
Demi-Glace Sauce (Half Glaze Sauce): %
pint espagnole sauce, 1^4 gill good gravy, pepper.
Reduce to a half-glaze espagnole sauce with
52 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
the gravy from roast veal or beef (strained and
free from fat); allow to simmer about fifteen
minutes, and season with, a pinch of pepper.
Devilled Sauce (Sauce Diable) : % pint demi-
glace sauce, 1 tablespoonful mixed mustard, 1
dessertspoonful Worcester sauce, % oz. butter,
2 finely minced shallots, cayenne, parsley.
Fry the shallots in the butter to a golden
color, add the demi-glace sauce, mixed mustard,
Worcestershire sauce, and a good pinch of cay-
enne. Stir until it boils, skim and pass through
a fine strainer, add a teaspoonful of finely
chopped parsley, and serve.
Duchesse Sauce: Take half a pint of richly
seasoned meat gravy, thicken it with half an
ounce of arrowroot, mixed previously with a
little cold water or stocK, then add 1 tablespoon-
ful of liquid meat glaze, and a wineglassful of
dry white wine and a teaspoonful of red currant
jelly. Boil up, simmer for a few minutes, and
serve.
Prawn Sauce (Sauce aux Ecrevisses): Pro-
ceed the same as for sauce Cardinal and include
12 prawns ' heads, which must be cut in quarters
and placed into the sauce a few minutes before
serving.
Crayfish Sauce (Ecrevisse Sauce) : Mix half a
pint of Bechamel sauce with a gill of small
peeled crayfish tails, and finish the sauce with a
little crayfish butter as liaison.
Echalote Sauce (Shallot Sauce): Prepare a
brown gravy or demi-glace sauce, add to it some
finely minced shallots previously blended in but-
ter, some lemon juice to flavor, and finely
chopped parsley.
Epicurienne Sauce: 1 small cucumber, 1 gill
mayonnaise, % gill cream, 1 tablespoonful tar-
ragon vinegar, 14 gill aspic jelly, 1 teaspoonful
anchovy essence, 1 dessertspoonful chopped
gherkins, 1 dessertspoonful chutney, pepper, salt,
sugar.
Peel the cucumber, cut it into small pieces,
cook till tender in salted water, strain and rub
through a fine hair sieve. When cold, stir this
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 53
puree gradually into the mayonnaise sauce, add
the cream, aspic, anchovy essence, the vinegar,
and chutney (the latter should previously be
rubbed through a sieve) ; season with pepper
and salt and a small pinch of castor sugar; add
the chopped gherkins and a few drops of spinach
greening to give it a greenish tint. This sauce is
especially suitable for asparagus, artichokes, or
boiled fish.
Epicure Sauce (Epicurean Sauce): This is a
white fish sauce consisting of a rich white sauce,
mixed with a little essence of crayfish, finely
chopped truffles, chilli vinegar, and cayenne pep-
per to taste.
Espagnole Sauce (Spanish Sauce): 3 quarts
of rich stock, 4 oz. lean veal, 1 bouquet garni,
12 peppercorns, 4 oz. butter, 4 oz. flour (sifted),
4 oz. raw ham or lean bacon, 1 carrot, 1 onion,
2 cloves, % pint tomato pulp, 1 gill claret, 1
glass sherry, some mushrooms (fresh or pre-
served).
This is the chief brown foundation sauce it
forms the basis for a large number of other
sauces. It is advisable that particular care and
attention be paid to the preparation of this im-
portant sauce. The ingredients given will pro-
duce about half a gallon of sauce. A smaller
quantity can be prepared by reducing the quan-
tities in proportion. It is, however, advisable
to have at all times an ample supply of this
sauce.
Wash and peel the carrot, turnip, and onion,
cut up small and put in a stewpan with the
bouquet, peppercorns, cloves, and the veal and
ham, both cut into pieces. Add an ounce of
butter, and stir over the fire until of a nice
light brown color; this forms a true mirepoix.
Pour off the fat, moisten the mirepoix with the
stock, claret, sherry, and tomato pulp, boil
gently for about an hour. Skim occasionally.
Meanwhile, prepare a brown roux by melting
3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour,
and cook very slowly over a moderate fire,
stirring all the while with a wooden spoon until
it acquires a chestnut-brown color; or place the
54 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
stewpan in the oven and let it cook, stirring
from time to time to prevent it from burning,
and to blend the flour better. Allow the roux
to cool a little, pour in gradually the prepared
stock, etc., stir over the fire until it boils, let
simmer slowly for another hour, skim well, and
pass through a tammy cloth or fine sieve. If
found too thick, add a little more stock. To
prevent a thick crust forming on the top of the
sauce, stir occasionally until quite cool. Keep
the sauce in a stone vessel or pan until wanted.
Be sure and boil up the sauce each day if not
used at one time, adding a little 'stock if
necessary.
Essence de Gibier Sauce: This is a brown
sauce (demi-glace or Madere) enriched with
essence of game.
Tarragon Sauce (Sauce a 1'Estragon) : This is
a thin brown sauce of the demi-glace type fla-
vored with tarragon leaves. It is usually served
with poultry or quenelles.
Farmhouse Sauce (Sauce Fermiere): Take
half a pint of Espagnole sauce, blend it with
finely chopped ham, chopped parsley and capers.
This sauce is usually served with game.
Fennel Sauce (Sauce Fenouil): To a pint of
well-reduced white sauce (Bechamel or Dutch
sauce), add some finely chopped fennel. Mix it
well and serve with boiled fish.
Flemish Sauce (Sauce Flamande) : Prepare a
Dutch sauce flavored with fish stock, then thicken
it with yolks of eggs as liaison, and flavor it
with a little prepared mustard.
Fleurette Sauce: This is a white sauce, served
with fish or vegetables, made with the usual pro-
portions of flour, butter and fleurette (which is
the name applied to the first skimming of milk
which is rather sweet); season the sauce with
salt and pepper to taste.
Finangiere Sauce: Prepare a rich brown sauce,
reduce with sherry or Marsala and mushroom
liquor, and enrich it with liquefied meat extract.
Thinly sliced truffles, small mushrooms and
cock's-combs are added when the sauce is ready
for serving.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 55
Game Sauce (Sauce Gibier) : Some game bones
and trimmings, 1 pint espagnole or brown sauce,
y 2 gill sherry, onion, carrot, turnip, parsley,
thyme, marjoram, bay-leaf, mace, clove.
The trimmings, carcasses, etc., of any kind of.
game may be used for this sauce; those of grouse
or woodcock are preferable. Chop small the
trimmings of game, put them in a stewpan with
a small onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of
turnip all cut in slices, a few sprigs of parsley,
a sprig of thyme, one of marjoram, a bay-leaf, a
small piece of mace, and one clove, moisten with
the sherry, cover and put on the fire to cook for
five minutes. Now add the espagnole or brown
sauce, let it come quickly to a boil, and keep
simmering for fifteen minutes longer. Pass
through a tammy cloth, return to a clean stew-
pan, season with a little salt if necessary, and
keep hot in the bain-marie until required for
serving.
Garibaldi Sauce: Prepare a Genoise sauce
made with meat or fish basis, flavor it with a
suspicion of pounded garlic and curry powder,
finely chopped capers, and anchovy essence or
paste to which a little chili vinegar should be
added, just enough to flavor. Careful blending
of the above named flavoring ingredients is es-
sential when making this sauce.
Generate Sauce: This is a rich brown sauce
made with a basis of Demi-glace or Madere
which is reduced with a small quantity of lemon
juice and tarragon vinegar. A little finely
shredded orange rind, previously reduced in
some sherry, is then added. The sauce is fla-
vored with very little garlic or shallot, bay leaf,
clove and mace. Careful blending of the flavor-
ing ingredients is most essential for this sauce.
Genoise Sauce: Melt an ounce of butter in a
stewpan, and fry in it a sliced onion, a shallot,
half a clove of garlic and a small bouquet garni,
add a glass of Burgundy, and let simmer until
the onions are done, then add a pint of
Espagnole sauce, and let simmer gently for ten
minutes. Strain through a fine sieve or tammy,
add a pinch of mignonette pepper, and a tea-
56 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
spoonful of anchovy essence, and use as directed.
Genoise Sauce: No. 2. Prepare a mirepoix
of 1 carrot, % stick of celery, 1 onion, 2 fresh
mushrooms, and 2 ozs. bacon, all cut into dice.
Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the
above mirepoix, also one bay leaf and a few
peppercorns, and fry for five minutes over a
brisk fire. Add one tablespoonful of flour, stir
till it acquires a nut-brown color. Moisten with
one glass of Burgundy wine and y% pint of fish
stock. Boil up and simmer for half an hour.
Strain, and season to taste. Ee-heat and serve
as required for fish.
Genoise Sauce (Rich Brown Fish Sauce): 1
sliced onion, 1 shallot, % clove of garlic, 1 oz.
butter, small bouquet garni, 1 teaspoonful an-
chovy essence, 1 glass red wine (Burgundy), 1
pint espagnole sauce (made from fish stock if
desired), a pinch of mignonette pepper.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry onion,
shallot, garlic, and bouquet, add the wine, let
simmer until the onions are done, then add the
sauce, and let simmer gently for ten minutes.
Strain through a fine sieve or tammy, add the
pepper and anchovy essence, and use as required.
Giblet Sauce: Boil some previously washed
giblets in seasoned water with an onion. When
done, strain, take up the giblet and onion, and
chop both finely. Put this puree into a saucepan
with a piece of butter, add the strained stock and
gravy and a small glass of claret; season with
aromatics and salt. Simmer slowly for about ten
minutes longer, then blend with a little rich
brown sauce or roux, re-heat, and serve hot.
Gooseberry Sauce (Sauce aux groseilles vertes) :
Put half a pound of green gooseberries in a
saucepan with a very little water, and cook till
soft, then mash them, grate in a little nutmeg,
and sweeten with castor sugar to taste. Pass
through a sieve and finish with an ounce of
butter. Serve with roast pork or roast goose;
it is also sometimes served with boiled mackerel.
A little spinach greening may be added to the
sauce if liked.
Gouffe Sauce: Eequired: 1 gill cream, % gill
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 57
wine vinegar, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 bay-leaf, 6
crushed peppercorns, salt, 2 oz. butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful chopped lob-
ster meat.
Put the vinegar, bay-leaf, and peppercorns in
a stewpan (covered) ; let it reduce a little. Add
the yolks of eggs and stir over the fire until the
sauce begins to thicken, then remove and put in
a saucepan containing boiling water, or in the
bain-marie. Work in the butter a little at a
time, also the cream, stir vigorously with a small
whisk. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy
cloth, return to a clean stewpan, add the chopped
lobster and a pinch of salt, stir again, place a
few bits of butter on top, and keep hot until
required for serving.
Granville Sauce: Prepare a white wine fish
sauce or other rich white sauce, to which add
some finely chopped preserved mushrooms (cham-
pignons), also a few picked shrimps and finely
chopped truffles.
Gravy Without Meat: Cut up into thin slices
half a peeled onion and a small scraped carrot,
fry both in half an ounce of butter or dripping;
when nicely browned add half a pint of water,
and a teaspoonful of Marmite or Savoy extract.
Boil up, season with salt and pepper, and cook
for ten minutes. Skim well, then strain and serve
as required.
See also Jus-Gravy.
Green Mousseline Sauce (Sauce Mousseline
verte) : To half a pint of mayonnaise add a
tablespoonful of savory herb puree prepared as
follows: Blanch a handful of parsley, tarragon,
chervil, and a little fennel, drain, and pound in
a mortar with 2 peeled and chopped shallots, a
teaspoonful of capers, 2 gherkins, 2 filletted
anchovies, 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a
tablespoonful of salad oil. Eub through a fine
sieve, mix a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar
with half a gill of aspic jelly, whisk all to-
gether till frothlike, then stir it into the pre-
pared mayonnaise.
Gribiche Sauce: Take half a pint of Mayon-
naise sauce, and add sufficient mixed mustard to
58 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
flavor, then stir in some finely chopped fresh
savory herbs (fines herbes) and serve.
Hachis Sauce: Mix some well reduced brown
sauce with a little rich gravy from roast meat,
then add finely chopped mushrooms (cham-
pignons), also chopped gherkins and capers in
due proportion. Cook a little and serve.
Ham Sauce (Jambon Sauce): Prepare a rich
brown sauce, and mix it with finely shredded,
grated, or chopped ham, chopped chives, shallots,
and parsley, previously blended in butter, then
flavor with lemon juice and the necessary sea-
soning. Boil up and serve hot.
Hessoise Sauce: Prepare a good horse-radish
sauce with grated horse-radish, sour cream, and
fresh breadcrumbs (previously soaked in milk);
season to taste with castor sugar, white pepper,
and salt. This sauce is usually served hot.
Hollandaise Sauce (Dutch Sauce): Crush
about a dozen peppercorns, put them in a sauce-
pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of French wine vine-
gar and 4 tablespoonfuls of water. Cover the
pan and place it on the fire, boil fast to confuse
the contents of the pan. It should be reduced
to about one-half its volume. Stir or whisk in
4 yolks of eggs, then by degrees whisk in 4 to 6
oz. of fresh butter, and lastly add about a gill of
hot water. Season with salt and the juice of %
a lemon. Pass the sauce through a fine tammy
cloth. Eeturn it to a clean saucepan, which must
stand in a pan of hot (not boiling) water. Keep
it thus till required for table.
Dutch Sauce (Hollandaise) : Take 4 eggs, 4 oz.
butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of water, 4 tablespoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of flour,
and the juice of half a lemon. Mix the butter and
the flour together into a paste, put this into a
saucepan with the vinegar and water, stir for
a few minutes, then add the beaten yolks of the
four eggs. Whisk until the mixture thickens or
binds, but on no account allow it to boil. When
ready to serve add the strained juice of half a
lemon. Green Dutch sauce is made by adding a
little spinach greening, just sufficient to give it
a sage green tint.
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 59
Dutch Sauce (Hollandaise Sauce) No. 2: Be-
quired: 3 yolks of eggs, 2 oz. butter, 1 gill
bechamel sauce, 1 gill stock, the juice of half a
lemon, salt and pepper.
Boil up the sauce, remove to the side of the
stove and whisk in the yolks of eggs, add the
stock (fish, chicken, rabbit or veal), mix thor-
oughly and add the butter gradually, season with
pepper and salt and the lemon-juice. Pass
through a tammy and use. Before adding the
butter the sauce should be sufficiently heated to
bind the eggs. Great care must be taken to
prevent curdling. Another way to make this
sauce is to omit the bechamel, and to use 4 yolks
of eggs to % a gill of stock, which is finished
with 4 oz. of butter. The first is the most con-
venient and most popular way. This sauce, when
finished, is to be just hot, and on no account must
it be allowed to reach the boiling point.
NOTE: A less expensive Hollandaise sauce
can be made by adding a small quantity of
bechamel or other good white sauce to the above.
Hollandaise Sauce (No. 3) (Inexpensive) : Take
2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 shallot, peeled and
chopped, 1 bayleaf, 6 white peppercorns crushed,
1 gill white sauce, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful
lemon juice, 2 ozs. butter, and salt to taste.
Put the vinegar (French wine vinegar in pref-
erence to malt vinegar) with the shallot, bayleaf
and peppercorns, in a saucepan, and reduce to
half its original quantity; add the white sauce,
let it boil, remove the bayleaf and stir in the
yolks of eggs. When it begins to thicken, remove
from the fire and strain into another saucepan.
Ke-heat, taking great care that the sauce does
not curdle, and whisk in the butter by degrees;
lastly add the lemon juice and enough salt to
taste. Serve with boiled fish, artichokes, aspara-
gus, etc.
Hollandaise Sauce (No. 4) : Put into a jar the
yolks of four eggs, 4 ozs. of fresh butter, half a
teaspoonful of mignonette pepper, a peeled and
chopped shallot, a teaspoonful each of tarragon
and chilli vinegar. Put the jar into a stewpan
60 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
containing boiling water, and stir over the fire
till it thickens. Then strain and serve.
Hollandaise Sauce (No. 5): Put one sliced
onion, six peppercorns, a bayleaf, into a saucepan
with 2 ounces of fresh butter; stir over the fire
until the butter is melted, then add a level
tablespoonful of flour, fry a little without brown-
ing, and stir in gradually % of a pint of white
stock, season with a little grated nutmeg and
salt, stir until boiling, cook slowly for 10 minutes,
then add the yolks of 3 eggs and the juice of
half a lemon, stir until it thickens, but do not
let it boil again, then strain and serve.
Green Dutch Sauce (Sauce Hollandaise Verte) :
Mix Hollandaise or Dutch sauce with sufficient
young parsley leaves, boiled, drained, pounded,
and rubbed through a fine sieve, to impart a
green tint. Blend well, reheat and serve hot.
Holstein Sauce: Prepare a white sauce of the
Bechamel type, reduce it well with fish stock and
white wine, then thicken with a liaison of egg
yolks, and flavor with lemon juice and very
little nutmeg. Serve hot.
Horly (or Orly) Sauce: Blend Suprene or
other rich white sauce with tomato puree and
meat extract or liquefied meat glaze, and finish
by whisking in fresh butter. Serve hot.
Horseradish Sauce: Grate a stick of washed
and scraped horseradish, and put it in a basin
with a little lemon juice. Rub the yolks of two
hard boiled eggs through a sieve, and mix with
about four tablespoonfuls of cream; season with
salt and pepper and add a teaspoonful of made
mustard and half a gill of vinegar; stir till well
blended, then stir in the prepared horseradish,
and the sauce will be ready for serving after
standing for about two hours.
Horseradish Sauce (No. 2): Grate finely a
stick of washed and scraped horseradish. Whip
up half a pint of thick cream, and add a table-
spoonful of chilli vinegar and a teaspoonful of
French or English mustard. Stir in the grated
horseradish, mix thoroughly, and serve.
Horseradish Sauce (No. 3): Grate finely two
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 61
tablespoonfuls of horseradish after it has been
well washed and scraped, then pound it in a
mortar, add a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea-
spoonful of castor sugar. Mix it gradually with
a gill of cream, then stir into it quickly half a
gill of vinegar, next add a teaspoonful of made
mustard and a pinch of cayenne or Nepaul
pepper.
Horse-radish Sauce, hot (Sauce Raifort,
Chaude) : 2 tablespoonfuls grated horse-radish,
y 2 pint bechamel, % teaspoonful castor sugar,
pinch cayenne and salt, % teaspoonful vinegar.
Moisten the horse-radish with the vinegar,
mix with the sauce, and boil up whilst stirring.
Add the sugar and cayenne, allow it to simmer
a few minutes, taking great care that the sauce
does not curdle; if found too thick, add a table-
spoonful of cream or milk. Served with hot roast
beef, etc.
Horse-radish Cream, cold (Creme de Raifort,
froide): iy 2 oz. grated horse-radish, 1 gill thick
cream, 1 tablespoonful white wine vinegar, 1
teaspoonful castor sugar, % teaspoonful powdered
mustard, % saltspoonful salt, a pinch of cayenne.
Put the horse-radish in a basin, add the sugar,
mustard, salt, and cayenne; moisten with the
vinegar. Stir in gradually the cream, and whisk
gently for a few minutes. Serve in a sauce-
boat with cold roast beef, etc.
Horse-radish Sauce, Iced (Sauce Raifort frap^
pee) : 1 stick horse-radish, 1 gill cream or milk,
1 teaspoonful mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful cas-
tor sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vinegar.
Grate the horse-radish as finely as possible,
put it in a basin, stir in the cream or milk, the
vinegar, mustard, and the. sugar. Stir well and
pour into a sauce-boat.
When milk is used, a tablespoonful of con-
densed Swiss milk should be mixed with the
fresh milk, and the sugar should then be omitted.
Freeze till a semi-liquid consistency, serve
with trout or other fish.
Boar's Head Sauce (Sauce Hure de Sanglier):
Prepare a sauce with Seville orange juice, and
the finely-chopped rind, castor sugar, red-currant
62 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
jelly, port wine, and prepared mustard, in due
proportions, then season with salt and black
pepper. Mix well and serve cold. This sauce
is also useful for almost every kind of cold
meat, and will keep for some time if bottled.
Indian Curry Sauce (Sauce Indienne) : Ee-
quired: 1% oz. butter, y 2 oz. flour, y 2 small
onion, 1 tablespoonful curry -powder, % pint good
fish stock, salt, 1 tomato, a few savory herbs,
y 2 glass sherry or Marsala.
Melt the butter, add the onion, finely chopped;
when of a nice light brown stir in the flour and
curry-powder, blend well, and cook for five min-
utes; pour in gradually the fish stock, add the
tomato, cut into slices, and the herbs; bring it
to the boil whilst stirring, then add the wine,
season to taste, cook for twenty minutes, strain
and serve.
Italian Sauce (Sauce Italienne): Eequired:
y 2 pint Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots, 8 pre-
served mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf,
1 tablespoonful sweet oil, 1 glass Chablis or
Sauterne, % gill stock.
Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place in
the corner of a clean cloth, hold tightly wrapped
up under cold water, then squeeze out the water,
and put them in a small stewpan with the oil,
stir over the fire for a few minutes, to blend
but not to color. Add the wine, the mushrooms
(finely chopped), herbs, and the stock, let it
reduce well, and add the espagnole. Boil for ten
minutes, take out the herbs, free it from the oil,
and keep hot in the bain-marie until required.
Joinville Sauce: Eequired: 1 oz. flour, %
gill fish stock, % pint white stock, 3 oz. butter,
3 yolks of eggs, lobster coral, lemon-juice, salt,
and cayenne.
Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, stir in the
flour, and cook a little without browning. Add
gradually the fish and white stock, stir until it
boils, and let simmer for twenty minutes. Pound
the lobster coral in a mortar with an equal
quantity of fresh butter, rub through a sieve
and stir into the sauce. Stir in the egg-yolks
one at a time. Season to taste with a pinch of
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 63
cayenne, salt and lemon-juice. Whisk well over
a slow fire, or in a bain-marie. Do not let the
sauce boil up again. Pass through a fine-pointed
strainer or napkin, and serve as directed.
Joinville Sauce (No. 2) : Knead an ounce of
butter with an ounce of sifted flour in a stewpan,
put it in the hot stove and stir for a few min-
utes, so as to cook the flour (be careful not to
let the flour get brown). Add the liquor from
the fillets, and about half a pint of white stock,
stir until it boils, and let simmer for about 10
minutes. Kemove the scum, stir in 2 more
ounces of butter and 2 yolks of eggs. Season
with white pepper and salt, add a few drops of
lemon juice and sufficient lobster-spawn to give
the sauce a pinkish tint, but do not on any ac-
count let the sauce boil again. Stir it long
enough over the fire so as to bind the liaison.
Pass the sauce through a fine strainer or tammy
cloth, and use same as directed.
Jus (Brown Gravy): Eequired: 2 oz. beef
suet or 1 oz. dripping, 2 Ib. trimmings of meat,
1 onion, 1 carrot, % head celery, 2 cloves, 1
blade mace, 6 peppercorns, bouquet of herbs, 2
quarts water.
Put the beef suet or dripping in a stewpan,
add a sliced onion and carrot, fry till brown,
put in the beef trimmings or other meat, and
any bones of meat or carcass of poultry. Let it
bake in the oven for fifteen minutes, take up,
pour off the fat, and moisten with the water.
Add the celery, cloves, mace, peppercorns, and
bouquet of herbs. Let the whole simmer gently
for several hours, take off fat and scum, and
strain. Season with salt as required. A few
drops of caramel may be added if the gravy is
not sufficiently brown.
Karl Sauce: This is a mild kind of curry
sauce composed of white sauce flavored with
curry and cream.
Lemon Sauce (Sauce au Citron): Melt an
ounce of butter in a stewpan, stir in half-ounce
flour and half -ounce of cornflour; cook a little
without browning, and gradually stir in half-
pint milk; add the thin rind of half a lemon;
64 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
cook whilst stirring for ten minutes. Dilute
with a little stock (and this may be fish, vegeta-
ble, meat or chicken stock, according to the
dish with which it is served), adding the juice
of half a lemon at the same time. Season with
pepper and salt, cook for another five minutes.
NOTE: The yolk of an egg and a little cream
may, if liked, be added to this sauce.
Livournaise Sauce: This is a cold salad sauce
of the Vinaigrette type, prepared with pounded
anchovy fillets, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, sweet
oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, pepper, and nut-
meg. All ingredients must be used in due propor-
tions and be well blended before the sauce is
served.
Lobster Sauce (Sauce Homard) : Take half a
pint of bechamel sauce, add to it two heaped-up
tablespoonfuls of finely chopped lobster, includ-
ing a little coral or spawn ; mix, and heat up
carefully whilst stirring; season with a pinch of
cayenne or paprika pepper, and serve when hot.
Lobster Sauce (No. 2): Slit a small hen lob-
ster, take out the coral, and crack the claws,
then remove all the flesh and cut it into very
small pieces or dice. Pound the coral in a mortar
with half an ounce of butter, and rub through a
fine sieve. Melt in a stewpan 1 ounce of butter
and add about % of an ounce of flour, blend all
well together, then add a gill of water and a gill
of milk, and stir this mixture over the fire until
it boils and thickens; cook it for about ten min-
utes, then strain and reheat, now add a little
cream, and stir well until it boils again, then
whisk in, by degrees, whilst off the fire, the coral
butter, stir till it is quite smooth, season with
salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne, put in the
chopped lobster last of all to the sauce, mix well,
and finish with a little lemon juice.
Lyonnaise Sauce: Mix a well made tomato
sauce with finely cut small shreds of Spanish
onions (previously fried in butter); finish the
sauce with a little liquefied meat glaze and lemon
juice and serve hot.
Madeira Sauce (Madere Sauce): Proceed the
same as for Demi-glace, Add one glass of sherry
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 65
or Marsala; reduce a little longer than the
above, and finish with a little meat glaze.
Maintenon Sauce: Blend about a gill of white
onion puree (Soubise type) with two or three
egg-yolks and half a pint of hot Veloutee sauce;
reheat, season to taste with salt and white pep-
per, and serve hot.
Maintenon Sauce: No. 2. This sauce is espe-
cially adapted for so-called gratin dishes, and
must therefore be well reduced to the correct
consistency. 1 pint Bechamel sauce, 4 yolks of
eggs, 1 tablespoonful Parmesan cheese, 1 table-
spoonful cooked onion puree, garlic, paprika
pepper, nutmeg.
Boil the Bechamel sauce for about fifteen min-
utes, stirring continually; add to it the yolks of
eggs, Parmesan cheese, cooked onion puree (Sou-
bise), a suspicion of garlic, just enough to im-
part the aroma, a pinch of paprika pepper, and
a little grated nutmeg (salt if needed). Stir till
it thickens, without allowing it to boil, and use
as required.
Parsley or Fine Herb Sauce (Maitre d' Hot el
Sauce) : y 2 pint Bechamel or Veloute sauce, 3
oz. butter, % lemon, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley seasoning.
Put the sauce into a stewpan, add a little
water, stir until it boils, and reduce well. Whisk
in the butter a little at a time, and rub through
a tammy cloth or fine hair sieve. Return to the
stewpan, add the parsley and lemon-juice, season
with pepper and salt.
Maitre d' Hotel Sauce (No. 2): Warm up 1
pint of bechamel sauce, add to it a tablespoonful
of finely chopped parsley, a few chervil and
tarragon leaves, and a tablespoonful of lemon
juice; work up with an ounce of fresh butter,
and serve hot.
Malaga Sauce: Take some good brown sauce,
enrich it with liquefied meat glaze, then blend
it with port wine and lemon juice, reduce well,
season with cayenne and flavor with finely
chopped and previously fried shallots. Serve hot.
Maltaise Sauce: Dilute and reduce finely
chopped parsley, shallots and mushrooms with
66 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
sherry, and blend with Veloutee or Allemande
sauce, then flavor with lemon juice and add
finely shredded orange rind.
Marchand de Vin Sauce (Wine Mercliant
Sauce): Peel and chop finely 3 shallots, toss
these, i. e. blend in a stewpan containing half
an ounce of butter, then pour in a gill of claret,
cover, and reduce a little. Next add half a pint
of Demi-glace or Espagnole sauce, a small piece
of meat glaze, and enough salt and pepper to
taste. Boil up whilst stirring, skim, and let
simmer for a few minutes. Lastly stir in half a
pat of fresh butter, and about a teaspoonful of
lemon juice. This sauce is usually served with
grilled steak or fillets of beef.
Marguery Sauce: Take some white fish sauce
(of the Mornay type), blend it with oyster
puree, season to taste with salt and white pep-
per, and finish with a little double cream.
Marinade Sauce: Cut a large carrot and two
peeled onions in slices, and fry these vegetables
in oil with a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a clove
of garlic, a sprig of parsley, two chopped shal-
lots, and a little crushed pepper. When they are
fried without taking a brown color, moisten with
a mixture of vinegar and water, adding a little
salt. Allow to simmer for twenty minutes, then
strain and repeat with a pint of Espagnole sauce.
Marinade Sauce No. 2: % pint stock, y 2 gill
vinegar, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 oz. butter, 1
small carrot, 3 shallots, thyme, 1 clove, parsley,
bayleaf, chives, flour.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the sliced
carrot, sliced shallots, a sprig of thyme, and the
clove. Fry a little, then add a few sprigs of
parsley, a bay-leaf, some chives, and a table-
spoonful of flour. Stir over the fire for a few
minutes. Moisten with the vinegar and stock,
season with pepper and salt. Allow to simmer
for half an hour, strain or pass through a tam-
my cloth, and serve as required for releves, roast
or braised game, etc.
Mariniere Sauce: Mix some white wine sauce
with finely chopped herbs and shallots previously
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 67
blended in butter, and enrich with a little fish
essence.
Matelote Sauce: % pint of espagnole sauce,
1 oz. butter, ^ gill Burgundy wine, ^ gill fish
stock, liquor or fumet, % onion, y 2 carrot, ^ gill
mushroom liquor.
Peel the onion and carrot and mince very fine,
fry in a little butter a nice color, drain off the
butter, moisten with the wine and mushroom
liquor, let this reduce well, then add the fish
stock or liquor and the espagnole. Let simmer
for ten minutes; then strain through a fine
strainer or cloth, add a small piece of butter,
season, if necessary, with a few drops of lemon-
juice, salt and pepper, and keep hot.
NOTE: When Espagnole is not handy, sub-
stitute for it % oz. of flour, % oz. of butter,
well blended (fried to a chestnut brown), and
diluted with % pint of rich brown stock; boil
well, skim, season, and strain.
Matelote Blanche Sauce: Blend a white sauce
with mushroom liquor, white wine, and finely
chopped peeled button mushrooms previously
blended in butter. Cook well. Strain, reheat,
and add chopped oysters flavored with chopped
savory herbs and very little anchovy essence.
Matelote Brune Sauce: Blend a red wine
sauce (Genoise, or Merchant de Vin) with finely
chopped fried button onions and button mush-
rooms, used in due proportion; flavor with
chopped savory herbs and very little anchovy
essence.
Marseillaise Sauce: y 2 Ib. ripe tomatoes, %
carrot, 1 small onion, 1 oz. raw ham, 2 oz. butter,
1 oz. flour, 1 bay-leaf, 1 pint chicken-stock, 1 oz.
bacon (fat), and salt, pepper to taste.
Remove the stems of the tomatoes, cut them in
halves, crossways, take out the pips and mash
up, and put them in a stewpan with the stock
and vegetables; the latter should be washed,
peeled, and cut into slices. Cook slowly until
tender. Cut up the bacon and ham, put them in
a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, stir over the fire
for five minutes; add the flour, and cook long
enough to blend the flour (do not let it get
68 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
brown) ; now add the tomato puree, the bay -leaf,
the stock, and the chicken. Allow to cook to-
gether slowly for twenty minutes. Season with
pepper, salt, and a pinch of aromatic seasoning.
Pass through a tammy cloth or hair sieve, heat
up again, and whisk in the rest of the butter.
Maximilian Sauce: Prepare a Tartare sauce
and blend it with sufficient tomato pulp or puree
to give it a reddish tint, then add sufficient finely
chopped tarragon leaves to flavor. Serve cold.
Mayonnaise Sauce: 2 yolks of eggs, 1 tea-
spoonful of French mustard, % teaspoonful salt,
a pinch of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar, about % pint best salad oil, and 1
tablespoonful of cream.
Put the yolks into a basin, add the mustard
(raw, not mixed), salt and pepper; stir quickly
with a wooden spoon, adding, drop by drop at
first and gradually more, the salad oil, and at
intervals a few drops of vinegar; the vinegar
is added when the sauce appears too thick. By
stirring well, the mixture should become the
consistency of very thick cream. At last add
the raw cream, stirring all the while. A little
cold water may be added if found too thick.
In hot weather the basin in which the mayon-
naise is made should be placed in a vessel of
crushed ice.
Mayonnaise Sauce (No. 2): Put two yolks of
eggs into a clean basin, add a heaped up salt-
spoonful of salt, and stir with a wooden spoon,
adding little by little (drop by drop) one and a
half gills of best salad oil, and at intervals a
tablespoonful of French wine vinegar. Continue
to stir vigorously till the mixture acquires a
creamy substance, then add another tablespoon-
ful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard,
and lastly a few drops of chilli vinegar, and use
as required.
Mayonnaise Sauce (No. 3): Break the yolks
of 2 eggs into a mixing basin, add a pinch of
castor sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a
saltspoonful of mustard. Stir with a wooden
spoon till smooth, then add drop by drop half a
pint of good olive oil, stirring briskly all the
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
time. Great care must be taken in adding the
oil, otherwise it will curdle. Then add a dessert-
spoonful each of tarragon and chilli vinegar, and
finally 2 tablespoonfuls of whipped cream.
Mayonnaise Sauce tomatee: To a pint of well
prepared and fairly stiff mayonnaise add half as
much tomato puree or cold tomato sauce. Mix
gradually, and season to taste.
Medicis Sauce: Blend a nicely prepared
Bearnaise sauce with tomato puree previously
diluted and reduced with a little red wine. Serve
hot.
Melted Butter Sauce: 1 oz. fresh butter, %
oz. flour, and % pint cold water.
Put the butter in a saucepan, when melted
stir in the flour (sifted). Cook for a few mo-
ments whilst stirring, add gradually * pint of
cold water, continue to stir till the sauce boils,
and allow to cook for at least ten minutes. Add
salt and pepper to taste, and strain if necessary.
Mint Sauce (Sauce a la Menthe): 2 table-
spoonfuls finely chopped green mint, 1 dessert-
spoonful brown sugar, 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls
vinegar.
Put the mint into a basin, add the sugar and
pour over a little warm water, sufficient to dis-
solve the sugar, cover and let cool, then add the
vinegar, stir well, and pour into a sauce-boat.
Mint Sauce (No. 2): Wash a small bunch of
green mint in cold water, then strip off the
leaves from the stems, and chop them finely.
Put them in a small basin, with iy 2 gills of good
vinegar and a little moist sugar; stir well, and
serve when required. The correct proportion of
mint and sugar to the above quantity of vinegar
is two tablespoonfuls of chopped mint and one
small dessertspoonful of moist or Demerara
sugar.
Mint Sauce (No. 3) : Wash and drain a small
bunch of green mint, sprinkle over it a good
pinch of salt, chop it finely, and add to every
tablespoonful of chopped mint one tablespoonful
of water, one of white wine vinegar, and a tea-
spoonful of castor sugar. Mix well and serve.
NOTE: A pinch of borax added to this sauce
is considered by some cooks an improvement.
70 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Mirabeau Sauce: 1 gill espagnole sauce, 1%
gill fish stock, y% small onion, % small carrot,
^4 gill Burgundy wine, *4 gill mushroom liquor,
iy 2 oz. fresh butter, chopped tarragon, chervil,
and parsley.
Prepare the fish stock from the bones and
trimmings from fresh fish. Peel the onion, scrape
the carrot, and mince both; fry them in a little
butter to a nice color, drain off the butter, add
the wine, cover and let boil quickly for a few
minutes. Add the mushroom liquor and the
stock, reduce to about half the original quantity,
then stir in the espagnole sauce, and let simmer
for about five minutes. Strain into a clean
saucepan, add the remainder of the butter, about
a teaspoonful (in all) of chopped parsley, tar-
ragon, and chervil, also a few drops of lemon-
juice and seasoning if found necessary. Whisk
over the fire until thoroughly hot (not boiling),
and use as directed.
Miroton Sauce: Blend some Demi-glace sauce
with finely minced, blanched and fried onions,
and tomato sauce, add vinegar and mustard to
taste, reduce well, season with salt and pepper,
and serve hot.
Mornay Sauce: Eequired: % pint Bechamel
sauce, y<2 gill mushroom or Italienne sauce, %
gill cream, % oz. meat glaze or 2 tablespoonfuls
half -glaze of chicken stock, % oz. grated Parme-
san cheese, and 1 oz. fresh butter.
Put the Bechamel sauce into a saucepan, re-
duce it well, then add the Italian or mushroom
sauce. Let it boil up, skim well, and add the
cream. Place the stewpan in a vessel of boiling
water, stir the sauce with a whisk, adding the
grated cheese, butter, and meat glaze; work in
these ingredients little by little, and stir or
whisk till the sauce has acquired a creamy tex-
ture. Do not allow the sauce to boil again.
This r auce is usually served with fish in which
case i< little fish essence should also be incorpo-
rated before serving.
Mousseline Sauce (White): Eequired: % gill
cream, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 crushed long pepper-
corns, 1 oz. butter, salt, nutmeg, lemon-juice.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 71
Put the cream, egg-yolks, and pepper in a
stewpan, place this in a bain-marie half filled
with boiling water, beat up with a whisk for a
little time, then add gradually little pieces of
butter, stirring all the while, but do not add any
more butter until each piece has been thoroughly
worked in and is absorbed in the sauce. The
sauce when finished will have the appearance of
a frothy cream, and should then be passed
through a tammy cloth. Just before serving fin-
ish off with a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch
of salt, and a grate of nutmeg should be added
during the process of whisking. Served with
souffle, fillets of veal or fowl, asparagus or arti-
chokes.
Mousseline Sauce Verte (Green Mousseline
Sauce, cold) : Kequired : 1 gill mayonnaise, %
gill cold Bechamel sauce, 1 tablespoonful of
pickled parsley, a few sprigs each of tarragon,
chervil, and burnet, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked
spinach, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 2 anchovy
fillets, and ^ gill of cream.
Wash and pick the green herbs, steep them
in boiling water for a few minutes, drain well,
pound in a mortar with the spinach, and rub
through a fine sieve. Pound the yolks of eggs
and anchovy fillets, mix with the green puree,
add the cream, and rub the whole through a
sieve. Dilute with mayonnaise and BSchamel
sauce, add a little seasoning and a teaspoonful
of mixed mustard.
Mustard Sauce (Sauce Moutarde) (for grilled
or boiled Herrings or Mackerel) : 1 oz. butter,
% oz. patent cornflour, *4 oz. flour, 1 dessert-
spoonful of English mustard, ^ gill vinegar,
% pint fish stock, y 2 gill cream, pepper and salt
to taste.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in
the cornflour and flour, and blend over the fire
without browning. Add the fish stock and bring
it to the boil, cook for ten minutes. Mix the
mustard with enough vinegar to make a smooth
paste, stir this into the sauce with the cream,
boil up again. Season to taste with pepper and
salt, and add a little more vinegar just before
serving.
72 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Mussel Sauce (Sauce aux Moules) : Mix some
Hollandaise or Dutch sauce with cooked mussels
cut into small dice, season to taste and serve hot.
Nantua Sauce: Heat up 1% gills of Bechamel
sauce, and stir in % gill of cream, then finish
with y 2 oz. of crayfish butter. Crayfish tails may
if liked be mixed with this sauce just before
serving.
Nigoise Sauce: Blend some Demi-glace sauce
with a small quantity of concentrated Italian
tomato puree, season to taste and serve hot.
Nonpareille Sauce: Prepare a Hollandaise or
Dutch sauce, and incorporate some crayfish or
lobster butter, then add finely chopped lobster
meat, preserved mushrooms (champignons), hard-
boiled whites of eggs, and truffles, all in due pro-
portions and finely chopped. Serve hot.
Normande Sauce: 2~y 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour,
white stock, fish liquor, 2 yolks of eggs, and
lemon-juice.
Melt 1% oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, stir long enough to cook the flour, moisten
with about a pint of white stock and a little
fish liquor. Allow to boil for ten minutes, skim
well, and finish with a liaison of 2 yolks of eggs.
Stir in gradually the remainder of the fresh
butter, and a few drops of lemon-juice. Whisk
well and pass the sauce through a fine strainer
or tammy cloth.
Norvegienne Sauce: Prepare a cold sauce of
the Mayonnaise type with hard-boiled egg yolks
previously passed through a sieve, yolks of fresh
eggs, salt, pepper, made mustard, oil and vine-
gar, then mix in some finely chopped savory
herbs. Serve cold.
Noisette Sauce (Nut Sauce): Take some Hol-
landaise or Dutch sauce and blend it with pre-
viously baked, pounded and sieved hazel nuts.
Finish the sauce by whisking in a little cream.
Egg Sauce (Sauce aux Oeuf s) : To a pint of
white sauce (Bechamel or Melted Butter) add
1 to 2 hard-boiled eggs chopped up small. Season
to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot.
Egg Sauce (Sauce aux oeufs durs): Boil an
egg for ten minutes, place it in cold water
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 73
and remove the shell. Separate the yolk from
the white and chop each finely. Mix with half
a pint of white sauce or bechamel, previously
heated, season to taste, heat up.
Onion Sauce (Sauce aux Oignons): 2 onions,
1 oz. butter, ^ oz. flour, % pint milk, nutmeg.
Peel the onions, cut them in halves and blanch
them, drain and cook in salted water till tender,
drain again and chop finely. Melt the butter in
a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook a little and add
gradually the milk; stir till it boils and put in
the chopped onions, season with pepper and a
grate of nutmeg, and cook for 10 minutes longer.
NOTE: When brown onion sauce is required,
mince the onions and fry a light brown color in
butter, drain off the butter and add half a pint of
brown sauce, cook for 15 minutes.
Onion Sauce (No. 2): Take some white sauce
in which a due proportion of finely chopped
boiled onions have been cooked; season with salt,
nutmeg and pepper. Served with boiled rabbit
or boiled or baked mutton.
For brown onion sauce, the onions are first
fried in butter and then cooked in Demi-glace
or Poivrade sauce.
Olive Sauce: Make a good brown sauce, mix
it with stoned or turned French olives, season to
taste and flavor with a little lemon juice. Serve
hot.
Orange Sauce (Sauce a rOrange): 2 peeled
shallots, 1 orange, lemon-juice, 2 ozs. raw ham,
cayenne to taste, 2 glasses port wine, and 1 gill
of meat gravy.
Chop the shallots and put them into a small
stewpan with the rind of the orange, quite free
from the white or pith, and a little chopped lean
of raw ham and cayenne pepper; moisten with
the port wine, and a little meat gravy; set the
essence to simmer gently on the fire for about
ten minutes, then add the juice of the orange
with a little lemon-juice, and pass it through a
silk sieve.
Orange Sauce (No. 2): (For wild duck, wild
fowl, widgeon, teal, etc.) Mix half a gill of rich
brown sauce with a gill of meat gravy, to this
74 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
add the strained juice of an orange, and boil up;
skim, and season with salt and pepper. Shred
finely the rind of half an orange, and put it into
the sauce, boil up again, and serve.
NOTE: If liked, a small, finely chopped shal-
lot and half a glass of port wine or claret can
be added and cooked with the above sauce.
This is considered an improvement.
Jus <T Orange Sauce: % pint Espagnole sauce,
y 2 pint good stock or gravy, 1 orange, lemon-
juice, and 1 teaspoonful red-currant jelly.
Peel the orange thinly, and cut the peel into
Julienne strips, put them in a stewpan with
sufficient water to cover, boil for five minutes,
and drain on a sieve. Put in a stewpan, the
Espagnole sauce, stock or roast meat gravy, and
half the juice of the orange. Allow all to reduce
to half its quantity, strain, and add the orange-
peel, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, the red-cur-
rant jelly, season with pepper and salt, boil up
again, and serve with roast wild duck, wild boar
or other game.
Sorrel Sauce (Oseille Sauce) : Prepare a thin
gravy sauce or use Demi-glace sauce; to which
add finely chopped and blanched sorrel leaves.
This sauce is usually served with braised or
boiled fowls, etc.
Oyster Sauce (Sauce aux Huitres): Eequired:
12 oysters, 1 oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of
lemon- juice, 1 yolk of egg, and % of a pint of
bechamel sauce.
Open the oysters, remove the beards and put
them, with their liquor, in a small saucepan,
with the butter. Cover with the lid, and cook
for four minutes (they must not be allowed to
boil). Put the oysters on a sieve, cut them in
halves or quarters, allow the liquid to reduce to
half its original quantity. Strain, return to the
saucepan, add the bechamel sauce; when hot
bind with the yolk of egg, then put in the
oysters and lemon-juice. Stir till quite hot, but
do not let it boil. Season to taste and serve.
Oyster Sauce (Sauce aux Huitres): Reduce
half a pint of Bechamel sauce with the strained
liquor of six sauce oysters. Beard the oysters
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 75
and cut them into quarters, or smaller, if liked;
boil for a few seconds only, then season with a
few drops of lemon-juice and additional salt and
pepper, if found necessary.
Oyster sauce forms an excellent adjunct with,
boiled fish especially so with turbot and cod,
also with boiled poultry, such as fowl or turkey.
Paprika Sauce: This consists of Veloutee or
Allemande sauce highly seasoned with paprika,
which is Eed Hungarian pepper.
Parisienne Sauce: This is a rich brown sauce
flavored with previously blended chopped shal-
lots to which add some finely chopped parsley, a
little lemon juice and some liquefied meat glaze,
then finish by whisking in a little fresh butter.
Serve with entrecotes, steaks or fillets of beef.
Parsley Sauce (Sauce Persil) : Prepare half a
pint of Bechamel or other white sauce, to this
add 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped and
washed parsley and a few drops of lemon-juice.
Pekoe Sauce: Mix 2 ounces of butter and a
teaspoonful of English mustard into a paste, then
season with salt and pepper and a tablespoonful
of Worcestershire sauce. Put this into a stew-
pan and let it gradually get hot. This sauce is
excellent with red mullet.
Persillade Sauce: Prepare a Vinaigrette sauce
in the usual manner with olive oil, vinegar, salt,
pepper, lemon juice and made mustard, then stir
in some finely chopped parsley and green savory
herbs. This sauce is usually served cold with
fish, vegetables, or as a salad dressing.
Perigueux Sauce (Truffle Sauce) : 1 gill brown
sauce, 1 gill tomato sauce, 1 glass sherry, 1
teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 oz. butter, 3
truffles.
Chop finely three large truffles, put them in a
small stewpan with the sherry, reduce to one-
half (covered); add the brown and tomato sauce;
boil for a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful
of anchovy essence and the butter.
Piment Sauce: Take some Demi-glace sauee
and blend it with tomato puree, to which add
some finely chopped pimento or sweet pepper
and season sparingly with cayenne. Serve hot.-
76 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Piquante Sauce (Sharp Sauce) : % onion or 4
shallots, 3 gherkins (chopped), 1 tablespoonful
chopped capers, 1 gill vinegar, x /2 teaspoonful
anchovy essence, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme,
and % pint espagnole sauce.
Peel and chop the onion or shallots, put them
in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-leaf, and
thyme, cover, and reduce to half the quantity
of liquor. Strain into another stewpan, add
the chopped gherkins and capers, moisten with
the sauce, add the anchovy essence, boil a few
minutes, and serve.
Piquante Sauce (Another Method): Chop sep-
arately four shallots, three pickled gherkins, a
tablespoonful of piccalilly, and a dessertspoon-
ful of French capers. Put in a stewpan with a
bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a gill of French
wine vinegar; cover the stewpan and let reduce
to half the quantity. Kemove the herbs, dilute
with a pint of Espagnole sauce, season with
pepper, boil up and skim.
Piquante Sauce (No. 3): Take half a small
onion or 2 shallots, 2 chopped gherkins, 1 table-
spoonful chopped capers, 1 gill vinegar, 1 bay-
leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, and % pint Espagnole or
brown sauce.
Peel and chop finely the onion or shallots,
put them in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-
leaf, and thyme, cover and reduce to half the
quantity of liquor. Strain into another stewpan.
Piquante Tartare Sauce. Eequired: 1 gill of
olive oil, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of French vinegar, 1
tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoon-
ful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy
essence, salt and cayenne.
Put the yolks of egg in a mixing bowl, place
this if possible on ice or in very cold water, next
add the oil drop by drop, stirring or whisking
always in the same direction, until the eggs be-
come thick, then add vinegar to taste and other
ingredients. The gherkins should be chopped
finely and added separately to the anchovy es-
sence; all this must be carefully mixed together.
Keep in a cool place until needed.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 77
Poivrade Sauce (Pepper Sauce): % pint of
Espagnole sauce, ^ oz. of butter, y% small car-
rot, % small onion, 18 peppercorns. 1 bay-leaf,
1 sprig thyme, 2 cloves, and ^ oz. of raw barn
or bacon.
Mince the onion and carrot, cut the ham. or
bacon into small pieces; fry the above in the
butter for three minutes, add the peppercorns
(crushed) herbs, etc., skim off the fat, moisten
with the sauce, and boil for ten minutes or
longer; skim, season, strain, and serve as
required.
Polish Sauce (Polonaise Sauce) : Take % pint
of Veloutee sauce and blend it with a little sour
cream, some finely grated horseradish, and finely
chopped fennel, and flavor with lemon juice.
Serve hot.
Pompadour Sauce: 2 oz. butter, ^ pint vel-
outee or allemande sauce, 1 shallot, 6 preserved
mushrooms, 2 yolks of eggs, ^4 gill cream, 1
teaspoonful chopped parsley, pepper, salt and a
grate of nutmeg.
Peel and chop the shallot, and mince finely
the mushrooms. Blend the shallot in an ounce
of butter, but do not let it take color; put in
the mushrooms and stir over the fire until all
moisture is absorbed, then add the sauce, stir
until it boils, skim well, and let it cook a few
minutes. Beat up the yolks of eggs with the
cream and parsley, stir into the sauce and sea-
son with pepper, salt and a little nutmeg; fin-
ish with the remaining ounce of butter, but do
not let it boil again. Keep in the bain-marie
until required for serving.
Pauvre Homme Sauce (Poor Man's Sauce):
Prepare a plain brown sauce, to which add suffi-
cient tomato ketchup and anchovy fish essence
to flavor. Suitable as a fish sauce to be served
hot.
Portugaise Sauce: Reduce about a pint of
tomato sauce with a gill of rich veal gravy,
flavor it with finely chopped onion, blanched and
fried in butter, with a little crushed garlic.
Poulette Sauce: Melt an ounce of butter and
stir in % ounce of flour, cook for a few minutes
78 THE BOOK OP SAUCES
without browning the flour, then stir in 1 pint
of white stock, stir till it boils, and cook for at
least 15 minutes, thicken with 2 yolks of eggs,
season with salt and pepper, and finish with half
an ounce of fresh butter.
Prince of Wales Sauce (Prince de Galles
Sauce): This is a cold sauce prepared with
chopped yolks of hard-boiled eggs and yolks of
raw eggs, olive oil, tarragon vinegar, mixed with
finely chopped savory herbs, and prepared French
mustard. It is usually served with grilled or
fried fish, or grilled meats a la Tartare.
Princesse Sauce (Hot Sauce for Fried Chicken,
etc.): l 1 /^ gill of Bechamel or veloutee sauce,
2 tablespoonfuls French wine vinegar, 1 oz.
fresh butter, 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of grated
horse-radish, nutmeg, 8 pepper-corns and pars-
ley.
Put the grated rind of the lemon and the horse-
radish in a small stewpan with the French wine
vinegar, add a little grated nutmeg and the
crushed white peppercorns, boil for several min-
utes, then add the Bechamel or veloutee sauce.
Cook for ten minutes, and pass through a fine
sieve or tammy. He-heat, season with salt and
more pepper, if needed, work in by means of a
whisk the butter and a teaspoonful of finely
chopped parsley, and serve with any kind of
fixture of poultry, fish or meat.
Provengale Sauce: Put two tablespoonfuls each
of finely chopped preserved mushrooms and
peeled shallots, two cloves of crushed garlic, and
a small bunch of sweet savory herbs into a sauce-
pan, and pour over a gill of olive oil; season
with salt and pepper. Cook steadily with the lid
on, shaking or stirring frequently, and then add
1 pint of brown sauce (Espagnole) and a wine-
glassful of white wine. Simmer for about half
an hour, then take out the bunch of herbs, and
serve.
Demi-Provencale Sauce: This is practically the
same as the above, omitting the mushrooms, shal-
lot, herbs and wine, and adding half a teaspoon-
ful of castor sugar. Strain the sauce before
serving. \
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 79
Ravigote Sauce, Chaud (Hot Ravigote Sauce) :
Take some hot Bechamel sauce, and blend it with
finely chopped, green, savory herbs, previously
reduced with white wine vinegar, then finish the
sauce with a liaison of butter and cream, season
to taste, and serve.
Ravigote Sauce, Froid (Cold Ravigote Sauce) :
Take some Mayonnaise sauce, mix it with suffi-
cient finely chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tar-
ragon, and peeled shallots, then stir in a little
spinach greening to give it the necessary color.
Ref orme Sauce (for Cutlets a la Re"f orme) :
1 gill poivrade sauce, 1 small glass port wine,
1 teaspoonful red-currant jelly.
This sauce consists of poivrade sauce mixed
with port wine and red-currant jelly. Boil well
for ten minutes, and strain. The usual Reform
garnish, consisting of Julienne strips of gher-
kins, mushrooms, truffles, hard-boiled white of
egg and cooked ox-tongue, is served at the same
time.
Regence Sauce (Regent Sauce) : Blend % pint
of Demi-glace sauce with % pint of thin gravy
sauce, and reduce both with a little white wine
and truffle essence, then flavor with finely minced
and butter blended onions.
Remoulade Sauce: y 2 pint salad oil, 2 table-
spoonfuls tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful made
mustard, tarragon, parsley, burnet, chives, 1
yolk of egg, castor sugar.
Blanch a few leaves of tarragon, parsley, bur-
net, and chives, drain and chop finely. Put in
a basin the yolk of egg with salt and pepper to
taste, stir well with a wooden spoon, work in
gradually half a pint of salad oil, and at inter-
vals a few drops of tarragon vinegar. About
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar is required to
half a pint of oil. When the sauce is finished
add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a pinch of
castor sugar, and the chopped herbs.
Remoulade Sauce (No. 2) : Blanch a few leaves
of tarragon, fennel, parsley, burnet, and chives;
drain the herbs, and chop them very finely. Put
in a basin the yolk of an egg, with salt and
pepper to taste; stir well with a wooden spoon.
80 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Work in gradually half a pint of salad oil, and
at intervals a few drops of tarragon vinegar.
About two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are required
to half a pint of oil. When the sauce is finished,
add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a pinch of
castor sugar, and the chopped herbs.
Eicardo Sauce: Prepare a fumet from the
carcase of game, to which add finely minced
fried onions and toasted bread, and blend with
rich brown sauce, strain, flavor with sherry, and
finish with a little liquefied meat glaze.
Eiche Sauce: This is Hollandaise enriched
with lobster butter or spawn, to which small dice
shapes of truffle and crayfish tails are added just
before serving.
Eichelieu Sauce: This is a rich brown game
sauce, reduced with Madeira or Marsala wine,
then work in a little liquefied meat extract and
some finely chopped truffles.
Eobert Sauce: % small onion, % oz. butter,
y% teaspoonful castor sugar, y 2 pint Espagnole
sauce, % glass -white wine, and saltspoonful dry
mustard.
Peel and mince the onion, fry it in the butter
a nut brown, add the mustard, moisten with the
wine, and reduce a little. Stir in the Espagnole
and cook for ten minutes; season it to taste,
and strain.
Eoman Sauce (Eomaine Sauce): Take a pint
of Espagnole sauce, heat it up, and mix with a
small quantity of each, cleaned currants, sul-
tanas and Italian pine seeds, then reduce with a
little white wine vinegar; press all through a
sieve, reheat, season and serve.
Eoyal Sauce: Put an ounce of butter into a
stewpan, when melted stir into it a heaped up
dessertspoonful of flour, add gradually y 2 pint of
fish stock, stir till it boils, and let simmer for
about 10 minutes. Strain, reheat, and add a
tablespoonful of cream, a teaspoonful of anchovy
essence, and a tablespoonful of "Pan Yan"
sauce. Season to taste, reheat without boiling,
and serve with boiled turbot or salmon.
Eouennaise Sauce: 2 shallots, bay -leaf, a
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 81
sprig of thyme, 1 glass claret, 1 pint demi-glace
sauce, and 2 or 3 ducks' livers.
Infuse the finely chopped shallots, bay-leaf,
and a sprig of thyme in the glass of claret.
Add the demi-glace sauce and the finely chopped
ducks' livers, and let reduce, season to taste,
and strain.
Russian Sauce (Sauce Russa): Chop finely 2
oz. of lean ham, 4 peeled shallots, and fry in but-
ter (about ~y% oz.) for a few seconds, then add
a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a glass of
white wine; cover, and let reduce to about half
the quantity. To this add about a pint of vel-
outee or allemande sauce, and allow to cook
gently for ten minutes. Remove the herbs, and
add a tablespoonful of finely grated horse-rad-
ish, season with cayenne and nutmeg, and pass
through a seive or tammy cloth. Re-heat, stir
in a pat of fresh butter, and a teaspoonful of
liquified meat glaze. This sauce is excellent
with grilled fish or fillets of beef.
Cold Salmon Sauce: Take 4 ounces of butter,
one tablespoonful of anchovy essence, two table-
spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, one tablespoonful of
cold water, a grate of nutmeg and a pinch of
salt. Put all into a mixing basin to warm and
stir or whisk till quite smooth, then stir in the
yolk of an egg, mix well, and serve when quite
cold.
Salmi, or Salmy Sauce: Required: 1 teaspoon-
ful red-currant jelly, % pint Espagnole sauce,
1 gill of game stock, carcass of cooked game,
2 shallots, 1 bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, some
mushroom trimmings, 1 glass port wine, 1 table-
spoonful sweet oil.
Peel and chop finely the shallots, fry in oil a
golden color, add the bay-leaf, thyme and mush-
room trimmings, chop up the carcass of game,
and fry a little in fat or butter, drain, and put
with the above preparation, add the port wine,
cover the stewpan, and cook them for five min-
utes. Moisten with the stock and sauce. Stir
well and let simmer for ten minutes. Skim well,
strain or tammy, season to taste, add the red
currant jelly, heat up and serve.
82 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Seville Sauce: Reduce some Demi-glace sauce
with strained orange juice and add the finely
chopped rind of a Seville orange. This sauce is
usually served with roast or braised ducks or
game.
Sharp Sauce: Peel and chop a small onion.
Heat up in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of salad
oil and fry in it the onion to a golden color,
then add an ounce of flour and let brown nicely;
next put in 1 teaspoonful of crushed pepper-
corns, 3 preserved mushrooms and a tomato
(cut up small); add gradually a pint of stock,
and stir until the mixture boils, then add 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a few savory
herbs. Simmer at least 15 minutes longer, then
strain; re-heat, skim, season to taste with salt
and pepper, including a tiny pinch of cayenne,
and serve hot.
Shrimp Sauce (Sauce aux crevettes): % pint
white fish sauce, }4 pint picked shrimps, vinegar,
1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 small blade of
mace, 1 bay-leaf.
Boil the shells and heads of the shrimps in
enough vinegar to cover; to this add a small
blade of mace and a bay-leaf. Strain the liquor
into the sauce, add the picked shrimps, and boil
up. Finish with a teaspoonful of anchovy es-
sence, and serve with boiled or grilled fish.
Shrimp Sauce (No. 2): Take 1 pint of milk,
1% ozs. of butter, 1 oz. flour, % pint of shrimps.
Pick the shrimps, and put the skins into the
milk, allow this to boil, and then strain. Melt
the butter, stir in the flour, cook a little and add
the milk gradually; keep stirring till it boils and
cook for ten minutes. Add the shrimps just
before serving, and if liked a few drops of
essence of anchovy.
Sicilienne Sauce: Eeduce some Espagnole
sauce with Marsala or Sherry, season sparingly
with cayenne pepper; add some thinly cut rings
of onions fried in butter just before serving.
Soubise Sauce: 2 onions, 1 gill white stock, %
pint Bechamel sauce, white pepper, salt, a pinch
sugar.
Peel the onions, parboil in salted water, strain,
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 83
drain, and chop very finely. Return to the stew-
pan, and stir over the fire until all moisture
is absorbed, then add the stock and cook till
tender. Now add the sauce and reduce to the
desired consistency, season with pepper, salt,
and a pinch of castor sugar.
Soubise Sauce No. 3: Peel, slice and blanch
3 onions, then cook them in half a pint of milk,
half an ounce or. butter, a little pepper and salt,
a bunch of herbs, thyme, parsley and bayleaf,
and half a pint of wine sauce. Boil slowly for
about 20 minutes, then remove the herbs, and
pass the onions and sauce through a fine sieve.
Reheat the sauce in a bain-marie, and stir in
two tablespoonfuls of cream just before serving.
Soubise Tomato Sauce: Peel and slice a large
Spanish onion, and cook it in white stock or sea-
soned water until tender, and the liquid has
nearly evaporated, then rub all through a fine
sieve. Add one-half the quantity of hot cream,
and an equal quantity of hot tomato sauce; sea-
son with salt and pepper to taste. Eeheat the
sauce, but do not let it boil again.
Soyer Sauce: Prepare a white fish sauce or
Bechamel "Maigre," and flavor it with finely
chopped savory herbs, butter blended shallots and
lemon juice. Finish the sauce with a liaison of
egg yolks and cream.
Spadacini Sauce Required: 1 gill white wine,
y 2 gill vinegar, 2 shallots, a few sprigs of pars-
ley, 2 sprigs of basil, 1 teaspoonful crushed mig-
nonette pepper, 1 tablespoonful white sauce
Bechamel or allemande, 1 tablespoonful tomato
sauce, 1 small terrine foie-gras (about 3 oz.)
freed from fat, 1 yolk of egg, 1 oz. butter, and
2 pinches of cayenne.
Put the wine, vinegar, shallot (chopped finely)
herbs, and peppercorns in a stewpan, cover, and
reduce to one half of its original quantity. Add
the two kinds of sauces, boil up, and pass
through the tammy. Pound the foie-gras in a
mortar, add the yolk of egg and the butter. Rub
this through a sieve and incorporate, in small
quantities, with the sauce. Whisk the sauce
en bain-marie whilst this is being done. Season
84 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
with a pinch of cayenne, and use as directed. The
sauce must not be allowed to boil, and when
finished should be similar in consistency to
Bearnaise.
Stragotte Sauce: This is a rich brown game
sauce with the addition of tomato pulp and
madeira wine, flavored with celery puree and
parsley roots, shallots, cloves and mace. This
sauce is generally served with Italian dishes.
Supreme Sauce: 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 1 pint
chicken stock, 1 small onion, 1 clove, % bay-
leaf, 3 oz. fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful cream,
1 yolk of egg, % lemon.
Make a white roux with the butter and flour,
and dilute with the chicken stock. Boil up, add
the onion, clove, half bay-leaf, and let it simmer
for fifteen minutes. Skim well, and work in
the butter, cream, yolk of egg, and the juice
of half a lemon. Whisk well, and pass through
a tammy cloth.
Supreme Sauce (No. 2): Put an ounce of
butter in a stewpan; when melted, stir in an
ounce of flour; allow it to cook a little. Add
gradually a pint of well seasoned chicken stock,
stir until it boils, and allow to simmer for fifteen
minutes. Take off the scum, add a gill of cream,
a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a pinch of salt,
and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Pass through a
tammy cloth or napkin, return to a clean stew-
pan, and finish with half an ounce of fresh but
ter and a little chicken essence or veal glaze.
Swedish Sauce (Sauce Suedoise Hot) : Make
a Bechamel or other white sauce, flavor it
with grated horse-radish and chilli vinegar,
and serve with roast poultry or grilled meats.
Swedish Sauce (Cold): 1 gill mayonnaise,
14 gill cream, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard,
and 2 tablespoonfuls finely grated horse-radish.
Whip the cream, stir in gradually the may-
onnaise, grated horse-radish, and mustard; add
a pinch of castor sugar, and a little salt if
needed.
This sauce is especially suitable for salads
and served with roast game, etc.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 85
Tartare Sauce: 2 yolks of eggs, cayenne, mus-
tard, 1 pint salad oil, V gill tarragon vinegar,
Bechamel or veloutee sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls
chopped gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of chopped
capers, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, %
teaspoonful of mixed tarragon and chervil finely
chopped.
Put the yolks of eggs in a basin, place it in
a shallow pan containing some crushed ice, add
a teaspoonful of salt, a good pinch of white
pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful
of mustard; stir well together, and add, gradu-
ally, the salad oil and tarragon vinegar. When
the sauce is smooth and creamy stir in a good
tablespoonful of cold Bechamel or veloutee sauce,
add the gherkins, capers, parsley, tarragon, and
chervil. Do not mix the gherkins, capers, etc.,
until the sauce is finished, as it is likely to cause
the sauce to turn if put in too soon. A few
drops of lemon juice may be added if the sauce
is found too thick.
Texas Sauce (Sauce Texienne): Prepare a
curry sauce, mix it with a very little saffron and
finely chopped parsley, flavor with lemon juice,
and finish with a liaison of fresh butter and
cream.
Tomato Sauce (Sauce Tomate) : 1% pint stock,
1 oz. streaky bacon, 1 oz. butter, 1 small onion
finely chopped, 1 Ib. tomatoes, 1 oz. flour, pepper-
corns, herbs, parsley, 1 oz. fresh butter, castor
sugar.
Put into a stewpan the butter and onion, fry
a little, and add the tomatoes cut into slices.
Stir over the fire a little longer, then add the
flour previously mixed with a little cold stock
or gravy. Stir the stock in gradually, add a
few peppercorns, a few sprigs of savory herbs
and parsley, and allow all to simmer for half an
hour. Eemove the herbs, rub the sauce through
a sieve, return to the stewpan, season with salt,
a pinch of castor sugar and pepper, whisk the
butter, and serve as required. A tablespoonful
of cream can be used instead of butter, but the
sauce should not be allowed to boil again after
the butter or cream has been added.
86 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Tomato Sauce (No. 2): Cut half a pound of
ripe tomatoes into slices, also half a small peeled
onion, and cook them for about 20 minutes with
a teaspoonful of castor sugar, a few peppercorns,
half a bayleaf and half a teaspoonful of salt.
Rub through a sieve or strainer, and add a pint
of brown stock. Fry in an ounce of butter %
ounce of flour, and stir until well browned, then
pour in gradually whilst stirring, the hot tomato
liquid. Boil up, skim, and let simmer for about
15 minutes, then serve.
Tomato Cream Sauce (Sauce Creme a la To-
mate): 2 oz. butter, 1 large tomato, 1 bay-leaf,
6 peppercorns.
Cut up the tomato, put in a stewpan, add the
bay-leaf, salt, and peppercorns, reduce to half,
add a piece of butter, and when drawn pass
through a tammy. Eeturn to a small stewpan,
and work in remainder of the butter. Do not
put near too hot a place or else it will go oily.
Tortue Sauce (Turtle Sauce) : Prepare a rich
brown sauce, using turtle stock as a basis, and
blend with finely chopped shallots, a little
anchovy paste or essence, lemon juice and sherry,
reduce and add finely chopped or grated lemon
rind, season with very little cayenne pepper, and
serve.
Valentine Sauce: This sauce is prepared in
the same way as Suedoise Sauce, adding a tea-
spoonful of tarragon vinegar and substituting
the French mustard with half that quantity of
English mustard.
Valoise Sauce: Chop finely 3 to 4 peeled
shallots, and reduce with a glass of white wine,
then add some meat extract or liquefied meat
glaze, work in 2 ounces of fresh butter, 3 to 4
egg yolks, and last of all a liaison of cream.
Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add
some finely chopped parsley, also about a table-
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Whisk in a
bainmarie pan until quite warm, then serve.
Veloutee Sauce (Velvet Sauce): 1 oz. flour,
2 oz. butter, 1 pint of veal stock, % gill mush-
room liquor, % gill of cream, 1 small bouquet
garni, 6 peppercorns, salt, nutmeg, lemon juice.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 87
Cook the flour with an ounce of butter to-
gether without browning, stir in the stock and
mushroom liquor, add the bouquet and crushed
peppercorns, boil slowly for twenty minutes, stir
frequently, and skim. Pass through a sieve or
tammy keep on the side of the stove, put a few
tiny pieces of butter on top to keep from form-
ing a skin. Just before using it add the cream.
Stir well and let it get thoroughly hot without
boiling, season with salt if necessary, a pinch
of nutmeg, and about a teaspoonful of lemon
juice. The sauce is now ready for use, and will
serve as a foundation for any white sauce or
as a veloutee by itself. The cream may be
omitted if used as a foundation sauce.
Venison Sauce: Put into a saucepan half a
pint of good brown sauce, a dessertspoonful of
red currant jelly, half a glass of port wine and
the juice of half a lemon. Boil up and season
with salt and pepper. Next add a dessertspoon-
ful of meat glaze, boil up again, then skim,
strain and serve.
Venitienne Sauce: % pint allemande or Be"-
chamel sauce, 1 oz. lobster butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful meat glaze, the juice of half a lemon,
pepper, nutmeg, and salt, 1 teaspoonful finely
chopped tarragon leaves.
Heat up the sauce, stir in the lobster butter
and meat glaze when required for serving, add
lemon juice, sufficient pepper, grated nutmeg,
and salt to taste, and, last of all, the chopped
tarragon.
Vert-Pre Sauce (Green Herb Sauce) : 2 shallots,
3 oz. butter, 2 large tablespoonfuls white-wine
vinegar, y 2 pint veloutee (see above) or alle-
mande sauce, a small handful spinach, 6 sprigs
of parsley, 2 to 3 sprigs chives, 3 sprigs tarra-
gon, very little chervil, salt and pepper.
Peel and chop finely the shallots, put them in
a stewpan with the vinegar and 1 oz. of butter,
cover with the lid of the stewpan, and allow to
reduce to about half its original quantity. Now
add the white sauce (veloutee for preference)
and let simmer for a few minutes. Wash, pick,
and blanch (parboil) the spinach and remainder
88 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
of herbs; drain and cool, press out all the water,
and pound in a mortar with about 1 oz. of but-
ter. Eub this through a fine sieve, and mix it
with the sauce as above prepared. Whisk in
the remainder of the butter, season to taste, and
serve.
Verte glacee Sauce (Iced Green Sauce) : 1 me-
dium-sized cucumber, a few sprigs chervil and
tarragon (blanched), spinach greening, 1 dessert-
spoonful Orleans vinegar, 1 gill aspic, 1 gill
cream, 1% gill mayonnaise, a pinch of castor
sugar, salt and pepper to taste.
Peel thinly the cucumber, cut it in half, re-
move the seed portion, then slice, and cook in
slightly salted water till tender. Strain off the
water and rub the cucumber through a fine sieve.
Chop finely the herbs, and add this and the vine-
gar, with a little spinach greening, to the cu-
cumber puree. Whisk the cream a little, and stir
in the above when sufficiently cool. Incorporate
by degrees the mayonnaise and the aspic jelly
(previously dissolved, but not hot). Stir over
the ice with a whisk for a few minutes, season
to taste, and fill up an oblong biscuit-tin; seal
it with paper and lid, and place it in a charged
ice-cave for 1% hour. To serve, unmold as
usual, cut the shape into neat slices or cubes,
and serve with grilled fish or meat, etc.
Villeroi Sauce: Prepare a Bechamel or other
rich white sauce, and mix it with finely chopped
cooked ham or tongue or both, and finish with a
liaison of yolks of eggs and fresh butter or
cream.
Vin Blanc Sauce (White Wine Sauce) : % pint
white stock, % gill chablis or sauterne, % oz.
flour, 2 oz. butter, 2 yolks of eggs, y 2 lemon,
salt, white pepper, some fish liquor if the sauce
be used for fish.
Melt 1 oz. butter, stir in the flour, cook a little,
dilute with seasoned stock, fish liquor, and wine;
boil up and cook for fifteen minutes. Add gradu-
ally the remainder of the butter bit by bit, also
the yolks of egg, one at a time, season with a
little salt, a pinch of mignonette or white pepper,
and add a few drops of lemon juice. Strain
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 89
through a tammy cloth, and use as sauce for
dressed fish, etc. Mostly served with soles,
salmon, trout, and whiting.
White Wine Sauce (Sauce au Vin blanc) : Put
2 ounces of butter into a saucepan with a little
parsley, a small peeled, sliced and blanched onion,
one or two preserved mushrooms (champignons),
previously tossed in a little lemon juice, all
finely minced; toss them in a stewpan well over
the fire, but do not let them get brown, add an
ounce of flour, add a pint of stock and a glass of
chablis or sauterne; season with salt, pepper and
mace; boil up, skim and simmer gently for about
half an hour, skim, strain and serve.
Vinaigrette Sauce: 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, olive oil,
1 teasponful chopped gherkins, 1 teaspoonful
chopped capers, % teaspoonful chopped parsley,
% teaspoonful chopped shallots.
Mix in a basin the tarragon vinegar, mustard
(French or English), and % teaspoonful of salt.
To this add 6 or 8 tablespoonfuls of best olive
oil, the parsley, shallots, gherkins and capers.
Mix well before serving.
Victoria Sauce (for Fish): y 2 Ib. fresh butter,
4 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar, 1
tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful chilli
vinegar, % gill fish stock, ^ oz. lobster butter,
pepper, salt, and nutmeg.
Cut the butter into small squares, put half
the quantity in a stewpan, place the stewpan in
a vessel or large stewpan containing boiling
water. Stir in the yolks of eggs by means of
a whisk, add lemon juice, tarragon, and chilli
vinegar, also the stock reduced to half its quan-
tity. Season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of
grated nutmeg. Finish by whisking in the re-
mainder of the pieces of fresh and the lobster
butter. The water in which the stewpan is
placed should be kept at boiling point during
the process, but on no account must the sauce be
allowed to boil.
Wargrave Sauce: Mix or blend with a pint of
Demi-glaze or other rich brown sauce a dessert-
spoonful of red currant jelly, a tablespoonful
90 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
each of Worcestershire sauce, mushroom ketchup,
and tomato puree. When well mixed stir in
about a tablespoonful each of the following:
pickled gherkins, preserved mushrooms, cooked
ham and tongue, all cut into very fine Julienne
strips or thin shreds.
Watercress Sauce (Sauce Ruisseau) : y 2 bunch
watercress, % tablespoonful capers, 1^ oz. of
butter, 1 gill chicken stock, ^ pint veloutee
sauce or allemande, 1 hard-boiled egg, seasoning.
Wash, pick, and blanch the cresses, put them
in the mortar with the egg, capers, and butter,
pound until fine, and rub through a sieve. Put
the sauce and stock in a stewpan, let it boil up
together, skim, and reduce a little. Whisk in,
by degrees, the green puree. Season to taste
with pepper and salt, strain through a tammy
cloth, return to the stewpan, and keep hot in a
bain-marie until required for serving. Do not
allow the sauce to boil again after it has been
strained, or else it will become oily.
White Sauce (Sauce blanche): Dissolve an
ounce of butter in a sauce pan, add one ounce
of flour; stir over the fire for a few minutes,
just long enough to cook the flour, without allow-
ing to brown. Stir in a pint of boiling milk;
add a small onion stuck with a clove, ten white
peppercorns, half a bay-leaf, a sliced carrot, a
pinch of salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir
until it boils, and allow to simmer for about
fifteen minutes. Pass through a sieve or tammy
cloth or else a fine strainer, and return to the
stewpan. Lastly stir in with a small piece of
fresh butter, and half a teaspoonful of lemon
juice.
White Sauce (Simple): 1 oz. butter, 1 oz.
flour, % pint milk, y 2 gill white stock or water,
y 2 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in
the flour, and cook for a few minutes without
allowing the flour to brown; dilute with the
milk, stir till it boils, then add the stock and
bay-leaf, and let simmer for at least ten min-
utes. Eemove the bav-leaf, season to taste, and
strain.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 91
White Fish Sauce: 1 oz. butter, % oz. flour,
1 gill milk, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 small piece
of mace, % bay -leaf, % teaspoonful lemon juice,
salt and pepper, bones and trimmings of fish.
Boil the milk with some fish-bones, bay-leaf,
and a tiny piece of mace, together with y 2 gill
of water. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, and stir a few moments over the fire with-
out allowing the flour to take color. Stir about
a gill of milk as above prepared into this, allow
it to come to the boil whilst stirring, and let
simmer for ten minutes; take out the bay-leaf
and mace and strain, heat up again, add the
cream, lemon juice, and seasoning, and use as
directed.
Xavier Sauce (Fish Sauce): y 2 bunch water-
cress, a few sprigs of fennel, % pint milk, fish-
bones, essence of fish for which the sauce is
prepared, 1% oz. butter, y% oz. flour, seasoning,
lemon juice.
Remove the stalks from the cress and fennel,
put the leaves in a stewpan with the milk and
fish-bones, previously cut into small pieces (add
a tiny piece of soda), boil until the leaves are
done. Strain and let cool, put the cooked herbs
in a mortar, and pound with half the butter,
then rub through a sieve. Cook the flour in
the remainder of the butter, without taking
color, dilute with the milk in which the cress,
etc., have boiled. Stir until it boils, add the
fish essence, and let the whole simmer for ten
minutes. Strain, return to the stewpan, boil up,
add the green puree, and cook a few minutes
longer. Season with a few drops of lemon juice,
pepper, and salt, add a little cream or stock if
found too thick, and keep in the bain-marie until
required.
Yorkshire Sauce (Sauce York) : Heat up somo
Espagnole sauce, then add finely shredded or
grated orange rind, red currant jelly, port wine,
orange juice, and a little ground cinnamon (care-
ful blending of these ingredients is essential),
reduce well and season to taste with salt and
pepper. The sauce is served with boiled ham or
pickled pork.
92 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Zingara Sauce: Eeduce half a gill port wine
with a gill tomato puree, add a gill " Salmi
sauce, " and reduce with half a gill of rich
stock; then strain on to a stewpan, containing
finely-shredded ham, tongue, mushrooms, and
truffles, about 1 dessertspoonful of each, and
a few very fine shreds of orange rind. Boil up
for about five minutes and serve.
SALAD SAUCES.
Mayonnaise: Of all the cold sauces used either
with meat or fish or to season salads the best
known, the most popular, and the most agreeable
to the palate is without doubt Mayonnaise.
Spanish sauce is the fundamental type of brown
sauces; veloute is the prototype of white sauces,
and Mayonnaise is the sauce from which the cold
sauces are derived. Phileas Gilbert in one of his
chronicles says: "Mayonnaise is the planet
around which numerous satellites gravitate, the
highway from which many paths run off. " The
ingredients which enter into the composition of
Mayonnaise properly so-called are few in number,
easily manipulated, and successful preparation is
simple enough if certain conditions are observed,
otherwise the result is disastrous. The first of
these rules is to use first-class ingredients, espe-
cially the oil, which is the soul of the sauce.
The vinegar also must be the best possible, and
a good brand of mustard chosen. As for the
pepper it should be ground immediately before
use. The Mayonnaise of course takes the color
of the chopped herbs that are used to season it;
thus with a little chervil and tarragon it be-
comes "sauce verte" (green sauce); with
chopped truffles it is "la sauce demi-deuil" (half
mourning) ; it takes the name of ' ' sauce Car-
dinale" when lobster coral is added, and it is
called Portuguese when mixed with tomato; and
"indienne" when some curry is put into it. The
simple Mayonnaise, however, consists merely of
oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, a little mustard,
and the yolk of an egg. There has been much
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 93
argument as to how the name Mayonnaise came
to be given to this sauce. One version is that it
is a corruption of Bayonnaise, from the town of
Bayonne, where it originated. Another version
is that the name is really ' ' Mahonnaise, ' ' and to
have been given in honor of Marshal Richelieu
after the taking of Port Mahon, the capital of
Minorca, which the Duke made himself master
of after having beaten the English. Another
version attributes the invention of this sauce to
Mayenne, and insists that the name was orig-
inally " Mayennaise. " Careme says that we
ought to say ' ' Magnonnaise, ' ' and that it comes
from the verb "manier" from the energetic stir-
ring the sauce undergoes in course of preparation.
He contradicts this himself in another chapter of
his book, where, in enumerating a list of dishes
named after the localities where they originated,
he cites the word "Magnonnaise" as being de-
rived from the town of Magnon, although at the
same time there is no such town in France. The
philologists dispute every point except that the
sauce is most stimulating, the most unctuous, and
the most appetizing of all cold sauces.
Plain Mayonnaise: The making of a Mayon-
naise is the terror of unskilled cooks. To believe
them, there are all sorts of difficulties in making
it. The work is long and troublesome, and the
success of the result is always problematic. Some
pretend that it can only be made over ice, and
that the sauce must always be stirred the same
way. (Both these are gross errors.) It is pref-
erable to operate in the warmth rather than in
complete cold, as the oil in congealing is an
obstacle in the assimilation of the liquid with
the yolk and vinegar and the sauce rapidly
decomposes.
As for the belief that the spoon or whisk
should be turned one way rather than the other,
it is too ridiculous to trouble ourselves with. The
recipe herewith may be considered infallible, not
only because the ingredients are different to those
ordinarily employed, but because of the method
of operating and mixing the ingredients.
Put into a round bowl the yolks of two eggs,
94 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
lialf a teaspoonful of salt, half this quantity of
white pepper, a teaspoonful of mustard, and the
same of vinegar. Mix these ingredients vigor-
ously with a small metal whisk, add the oil grad-
ually without stopping stirring. Great care must
be taken not to allow the Mayonnaise to become
too thick. This can be avoided by adding a few
drops of vinegar or cold water. The method of
mixing the yolks with the mustard, vinegar, salt,
and pepper to begin with is the main point of
the recipe, and the reason why success is certain,
as the mixture assimilates easily with the oil,
and it is not even necessary to add it drop by
drop, but it may be put in spoonful by spoonful
without fear. The principal advantage of the
method of operating is that sufficient Mayonnaise
for six people can be prepared in five minutes,
whereas the old way would take a quarter of an
hour. The use of a whisk in place of a wooden
spoon is of great importance.
Green Mayonnaise: Take a large sprig of
parsley, one of chervil, chives, and tarragon.
Wash, blanch, drain, and refreshen. Squeeze out
the moisture in a napkin, and put them into a
mortar with the yolks of three hard eggs, salt,
pepper, two anchovies, and a little mustard.
Pound, adding oil and vinegar until the puree
becomes smooth. Then pass it through a hair
sieve by the aid of a palet knife. Mix this puree
with Mayonnaise.
Tomato Mayonnaise: Put the yolks of 2 raw
eggs into a mixing basin, add a pinch of salt,
and stir in gradually a gill of salad oil. Mix a
teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and one of chilli
vinegar, with the same quantity of French vine-
gar. Work this in by degrees until the sauce
assumes a rich creamy consistency. Mix about a
gill of tomato puree with the Mayonnaise, and
place it on the ice for about an hour, then serve
with cold meat or use for a cold entree.
Mayonnaise aux Fines Herbes: Prepare a
Mayonnaise with two egg yolks, and when it is
made and seasoned add a little tarragon, chervil,
and parsley, all finely chopped. Mix well and
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 95
Mayonnaise a la Portugaise: All sauces called
Portugaise are usually red, and colored by means
of tomatoes. Add to the Mayonnaise a table-
spoonful of tomato pulp previously passed
through a fine sieve. Mix well and serve.
Mayonnaise a la Cardinale: This sauce takes
its name from the scarlet color communicated to
Mayonnaise by the addition of crayfish or lob-
ster coral. Pass the coral through a hair sieve,
mix with the sauce, and season with a little
cayenne or paprika.
Caper Mayonnaise: Mix a tablespoonful or
two of finely chopped capers to half a pint of
Mayonnaise.
Truffle Mayonnaise: This is a Mayonnaise to
which finely chopped truffles have been added.
This preparation is known as demi-deuil sauce.
Mayonnaise a la Gelee: Put into a basin some
almost cold aspic jelly. Mix this with the same
quantity of olive oil and three tablespoonfuls of
vinegar. Add a teaspoonful of chopped fine
herbs, salt, and pepper. Stir the sauce on ice
with an egg whisk until it commences to thicken.
Then take it off the ice and whisk it a few
minutes longer. This Mayonnaise is usually em-
ployed with cold fish or fowl. It is lighter than
Mayonnaise made with egg, but is less appre-
ciated.
Cumberland Sauce: This sauce is much in
favor in England, and is served with cold game
or galantine of boar's head. Chop up two shal-
lots and put them into a stewpan with the juice
of an orange and a lemon cut into fine Julienne.
Boil in water for twenty minutes and drain.
Then put the juice and shallots into a basin with
six spoonfuls of currant jelly, three of port wine,
a pinch of ground ginger, a little cayenne, and
the juice of the lemon and orange.
Sauce a la Diable: This sauce is served and
eaten with grilled meat. Chop three peeled
shallots and half a clove of garlic, and boil in a
small pan with two spoonfuls of vinegar and a
sprinkling of cayenne for ten minutes. Add a
little tomato sauce and Worcester sauce, and
96 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
allow to cool. Mix this with, a rather thick
Mayonnaise.
Pepper Sauce: Pepper sauce properly so-
called is served hot with certain entrees, and
usually with braised fillet of beef, but the cold
pepper sauce eaten with artichokes and aspara-
gus is simply made with oil, vinegar, pepper,
and salt, to which a little mustard may be added.
Ravigote Sauce: The name of ravigote was
formerly gi-ven to a mixture of herbs chopped
finely, composed of parsley, chervil, tarragon,
chives, pimpernel, and capers. This is the origin
of ravigote sauce, which is a simple vinaigrette
seasoned with these herbs and with the addition
of chopped or pounded yolk of hard-boiled egg.
This sauce, in the old days, was known as
1 1 grebiche. ' '
Remoulade Sauce: Remoulade is often con-
founded with ravigote, although the sauces are
entirely different. Bemoulade differs from other
cold sauces insomuch as mustard is its charac-
teristic basis, and it is flavored with pounded
anchovies. Chop up finely three shallots and fry
them in oil, stirring them until they take a light
color. Then drain and let them cool. Chop up
some parsley, chervil, and pimpernel. Put these
herbs in the corner of a napkin, and steep them
in boiling water. Press out the moisture by
wringing the linen, and put the herbs into a
bowl with the chopped shallot, two teaspoonfuls
of tarragon mustard, salt, and pepper. Add oil
drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or
with an egg whisk, and finally put in a sufficient
quantity of vinegar. Add the oil to the mustard
very carefully, otherwise the sauce will decom-
pose.
Bemoulade Sauce a I'lndienne: Pound in a
small mortar the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs,
adding y 2 pint of oil and % gill of vinegar,
drop by drop. Add two teaspoonfuls of curry
paste, season, and pass through a sieve. This is
used with poultry or game salads. It should
have a very pronounced yellow color.
Tartare Sauce: Mix the yolks of three hard-
boiled eggs in a small basin, then add a tea-
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 97
spoonful of French mustard and as much. English
mustard. Season with salt, pepper, and a spoon-
ful of vinegar. Mix with an egg whisk and
allow the oil to run from the bottle in a thin
thread, whisking .constantly untdl the sauce
thickens. It can be thinned with vinegar if
necessary. Add finally capers, chopped gherkins,
chervil, tarragon, and a sprinkling of cayenne.
If these instructions are followed to the letter
the sauce should not turn. Either hard-boiled
or raw yolks of eggs may be used.
Vinaigrette: This is usually served with
asparagus and globe artichokes. It should not
be prepared in advance. As a rule each person
makes it on his own plate. It is simply com-
posed of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, to which
a little mustard may be added; chopped parsley,
gherkins, etc., can also be mixed with it if liked.
( l, FRUIT SAUCES.
The continental custom of serving fruit sauces
as an accompaniment with certain fish, roast,
braised or boiled meat, roast game and poultry
is becoming fashionable in other countries.
Apple Sauce (served with roast pork, goose, or
duck) : Peel and core 1 Ib. of cooking apples
and slice thinly, put them into a stewpan with
'an ounce of sugar, and a teacupful of cold
water. Cook the apples until they are tender
and will mash easily; they require from three-
quarters of an hour to an hour to cook. Pass
the fruit through a wire sieve, return the sauce
to the stewpan, stir in about an ounce of butter,
and serve hot.
Apple Sauce (Another Way): Peel, core and
slice 6 large sour cooking apples and cook them
till tender with % pint rich gravy, rub through
a fine wire sieve and add a tiny pinch of cayenne.
Brown Apple Sauce: Peel, core and slice
thinly about 1 Ib. of cooking apples, put them in
a stewpan with about a pint of brown stock or
gravy, and let them boil until the fruit is ten-
der. Stir them and mash them from time to
98 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
time, and when they are mashed add half a
saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Serve hot.
Cherry Sauce (Served with Eoast Snipe and
Woodcocks) : Eemove the stems from y 2 Ib. of
cooking cherries, stone them, wash them and
drain them from the water into a stewpan, add
an ounce of sugar and the juice of half a lemon.
Let the cherries stew gently for three-quarters
of an hour. Serve them hot in a sauce boat.
Cranberry Sauce (Served with Eoast Turkey,
Duck or Game): Wash * Ib. of cranberries,
then put them in a stewpan, add sufficient water
to cover them, and an ounce of sugar. Allow
the cranberries to stew for about half an hour,
and serve when cold.
Damson Sauce: To a pint of vinegar add a
pound of loaf sugar, half an ounce of cloves, and
3 quarts of damsons. Boil all together till the
fruit is tender, then pass through a fine sieve,
and bottle and cork at once. j '
Gooseberry Sauce (Served with Mackerel and
Eoast Pork, and Sometimes with Boiled Lamb or
Mutton): Top and tail a pint of green, unripe
gooseberries, wash them, and place them in a
stewpan, add an ounce of sugar, a gill of cold
water. Cover the stewpan and cook slowly for
about half an hour; shake the pan from time to
time to prevent the fruit from sticking. When
the fruit is quite soft, pass through a sieve, and
serve the sauce hot.
Orange Sauce (Served with Eoast Wild Duck,
Widgeon and Teal) : Take half a pint of well
flavored stock or gravy (free from fat), add the
grated rind and juice of a Seville orange (fail-
ing Seville oranges use the ordinary sour
oranges), a small glass of sherry, and half a salt-
spoonful of cayenne pepper. Mix these ingre-
dients and put them in a saucepan. Let the
sauce simmer for about 10 minutes and serve hot.
Orange Sauce (Another Way) : Put 2 table-
spoonfuls of red currant jelly into a small basin,
and place it in a vessel containing boiling water;
when the jelly has melted, add the grated rind
and juice of a Seville orange, the juice of half
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 99
a lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt-
spoonful of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of port
wine. Mix the ingredients well, and serve the
sauce hot or cold.
Oporto Sauce: Put into a clean saucepan the
following ingredients: a wineglassful of port
wine, a dessertspoonful of brandy, and a table-
spoonful of red currant jelly, a dozen stoned
Morella cherries, a small apple, peeled, cored,
and cut up small, and 3 French plums. Boil up
slowly and take out the fruit when cooked. Mix
a teaspoonful of corn or rice flour and a tea-
spoonful of castor sugar with a tablespoonful of
port wine; add this to the first liquor, and boil.
Pass the fruit through a fine sieve and add to
the sauce. Serve it iced or very cold.
Raisin Sauce (Served with Eoast or Braised
Meat) : Stone and wash 2 ounces of raisins, and
boil them in a stewpan in half a pint of water
for about 20 minutes. Melt in a stewpan an
ounce of butter, add an ounce of flour, and stir
over the fire until nicely browned, then add half
an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and
shredded, the grated rind and juice of half a
lemon, a tablespoonful of vinegar, also half an
ounce of sugar, a glass of claret, a saltspoonful
of salt, and half a saltspoonful of grated nut-
meg; then add the stewed raisins, allow the
sauce to boil for a few minutes, and serve hot.
Sultana Sauce (Served with Braised or Stewed
Hares, Babbits, and Eagouts): Pick and wash
and soak in tepid water 2 ounces of sultanas,
and cook them in a stewpan for about 15 minutes
in half a pint of water. Mix ty an ounce of corn-
flour with an ounce of butter, and stir it into
the boiling fruit and cook until it thickens. Add
the grated rind and juice of half a lemon and a
small glass of claret. Eeheat and serve hot.
Tamarind Sauce (Usually Served with Fish):
Mix 14 lb. of tamarinds with % pint of water
and rub all through a wire sieve; put the pulp
thus obtained into a saucepan, add a wineglass-
ful of port wine or claret, the juice of half a
lemon, an ounce of sugar, and half a saltspoonful
of cayenne. Boil up and stir the ingredients
100 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
until quite smooth. Add more water, if found
too thick. Serve the sauce hot or cold.
Red Wine Raisin Sauce (Served with Eoast
Beef, Venison or Wild Birds): Stone 4 ozs. of
raisins and chop them finely, then simmer in a
stewpan with half a pint of Demi-glace sauce
for ten minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and
the grated rind of a quarter of it, a glass of
claret, also a teaspoonful of castor sugar. Boil
up and cook for ten minutes, then serve hot or
cold.
SWEET SAUCES.
Tor Hot and Cold Puddings, Fruit Timbales and
Croutes, Fritters, etc.
Almond Sauce: Put into a saucepan half a
pint of milk, bring nearly to the boil, then stir
in slowly one level dessertspoonful of cornflour
or cornstarch previously mixed with a little cold
milk; stir till it boils, then add half an ounce
of Valencia almonds and four bitter almonds,
previously blanched, peeled, chopped and pounded
to a paste with 2 ounces of castor sugar; reboil
the whole, then add a raw yolk of egg. Ee-heat,
but do not let it boil again. Serve hot or cold.
Almond Cream Sauce: Blanch and skin one
ounce of Jordan almonds and six bitter almonds;
then put them in a mortar with 4 ounces of
castor sugar and a tabelspoonful of orange-flour
water, and pound them finely; remove this and
put into a small stewpan, add a gill of cream
and 2 egg yolks, and whisk the sauce over boil-
ing water until it resembles a smooth cream.
Almond Sauce for Fruit Salad: Blanch and
peel one dozen sweet and four bitter almonds,
soak them in cold water for about two hours;
drain and chop them, next put them in a little
cold water with a few drops of lemon juice, and
sufficient salt and pepper to season; by degrees
add a few spoonfuls of sherry just enough to
make it the consistency of cream. This dress-
ing may be used on sliced apples, pears, peaches
and fresh figs.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 101
Apricot Sauce: Required: 2 tablespoonfuls
of apricot marmalade, % gill sherry or ^4 gill
brandy, 1 gill water, % oz. fresh butter.
Put the marmalade in a stewpan, and let dis-
solve with the water and butter. Remove from
the fire, add the sherry or brandy, boil up again,
strain, and use as required. A liaison of one
dessertspoonful of cornflour added to the above
will improve the appearance for cooking pur-
poses. A little sugar may be added if found
necessary.
Banana Cream Sauce: Peel three ripe bananas,
and rub them through a sieve. Mix an ounce
of corn or rice flour with a little cold water into
a smooth paste, add to it a gill of cream, stir
over the fire until it boils, and allow to simmer
for five minutes, then add the banana pulp,
about 1% oz. of castor sugar, and a tablespoon-
ful of rosewater. Re-heat and flavor with a
little lemon rind. Last of all stir in a little
whipped cream.
Brandy Sauce: Required: 4 oz. loaf sugar,
% oz. cornflour, y 2 gill brandy, % pint water.
Put the sugar and rather more than a gill and
a half of water in a copper stewpan, boil a few
minutes, take off the scum, and reduce to a thin
syrup. Mix the cornflour with a little cold
water, stir into the boiling syrup, and whisk
over the fire for about five minutes. Add the
brandy, strain, and serve hot with the pudding.
Brandy Butter: Work to a cream in a basin
with a wooden spoon, 6 ounces of fresh butter
with 2 ounces of icing sugar, then add by de-
grees 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon juice, and 2
to 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy; beat until it
resembles whipped cream, and put it on the
ice till required. This sauce is good with most
steamed or baked puddings; it can also be used
as a garnish for cold puddings.
Caramel Sauce: (another way): Put an ounce
of loaf sugar into a copper pan and cook it to
a light brown color; pour in quickly half a pint
of syrup, flavor with vanilla pod or essence and
reduce a little. About five minutes before serv-
ing incorporate a dessertspoonful of arrow root,
102 THE BOOH OF SAUCES
previously mixed with a little cold milk or cream.
Boil while stirring for a few minutes, then strain
and serve.
Chaudeau Sauce: Put into a small stewpan 1
gill of white wine, Chablis, Sauterne or Hock;
whisk in 3 yolks of eggs and 1 oz. of castor
sugar, and stir or whisk over the fire till the mix-
ture becomes a cream-like froth. It must be hot
but not boiling. Pour over the pudding or serve
in a sauce boat.
Cherry Sauce: Cream up 2 ounces of fresh
butter and 2 ounces of sugar, then add the
whisked white of an egg, and about half a pint
of cherry pulp, made from fresh or bottled
cherries; the fruit should be first stewed. Mix
it all well together, and add a tablespoonful of
kirsch or rum, and if liked a few drops of liquid
carmine. Serve hot or cold.
Chocolate Sauce: Kequired 4 oz. grated
chocolate, 2 oz. icing sugar, % pint of water, 1
oz. fecule or creme de riz, 1 teaspoonful vanilla
essence, tablespoonful of brandy.
Put the chocolate sugar, and water in a sauce-
pan; stir over the fire until it boils. Mix the
fecule or creme de riz with an extra gill of
cold water, add it to the chocolate, bring it
again to the boil, and let simmer for five min-
utes. Pass through a tammy or napkin, return
to the saucepan, add the brandy and vanilla
essence, and keep hot until required.
Chocolate Sauce (No. 2): Boil half a pint of
grated chocolate, add half a gill of cream, stir
this on to two yolks of eggs well beaten, re-
turn to the stewpan over the fire and stir until
it thickens. A little sugar may be added if
required.
Chocolate Sauce (Cold) : Prepare a custard as
follows: Beat up 4 yolks of eggs, put them in
a saucepan with half a pint of boiling milk
and one ounce of castor sugar, and stir over the
fire until it thickens; do not allow it to boil
or it will curdle; add 2 ounces of chocolate pre-
viously dissolved and boiled in half a pint of
milk, when cool add it to the custard, then
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 103
pass through a fine sieve; when cold stir in
about half a gill of whipped cream and serve.
Claret Sauce: Put in a stewpan iy 2 gill of
claret with 1 oz. loaf sugar, a piece of cinnamon,
and a slice of lemon. Boil up, and add a dessert-
spoonful of Brown and Poison 's cornflour mixed
with a tablespoonful of cold water. Cook for
ten minutes, strain and serve.
Coffee Custard Sauce: Put 6 tablespoonfuls of
freshly-made strong coffee into a saucepan with
% pint of milk and 2 to 3 ounces of loaf sugar;
let it boil, strain, then stir or whisk in the
yolks of 3 eggs. Ee-heat whilst stirring until
it thickens, strain, and add a tablespoonful of
cream.
Coffee Sauce: Boast 2 ounces of raw coffee
berries in a pan over a quick fire till of a
chestnut brown color. Then pound them in a
mortar. Boil half a pint of water and pour
over the coffee. Cover, and let it infuse for some
minutes. Now strain and sweeten with plain
incorporate a dessertspoonful of arrow root, or
cornflour with a small glass of brandy or kirsch.
Add this to the coffee. Let simmer five minutes
and serve.
Custard Sauce: Beat up two eggs in a basin,
and add by degrees a pint of boiling milk.
Sweeten with an ounce of castor sugar and stir
or whisk over the fire until the mixture begins
to thicken and is of a creamlike appearance.
Flavor with a few drops of vanilla or lemon
essence, then serve hot. Great care must be
taken not to let the sauce boil otherwise it will
curdle.
Custard Sauce (No. 2): Boil half a pint of
milk, beat up two yolks of eggs in a basin, add
a heaping tablespoonful of castor sugar, add some
flavoring essence if liked, stir the boiling milk
gradually on the egg, return into the stewpan
and stir over a gentle fire until the custard is
formed. It must not on any account be allowed
to boil. If liked a little thicker, a teaspoonful
of cornflour may be mixed with a little cold
milk; this must be added to the hot milk be-
fore the yolks, etc., are incorporated. Cinnamon,
104 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
nutmeg or lemon rind may be used as flavoring
in place of essence.
Custard Sauce (No. 3) : Put into a bain-marie
pan y 2 pint of milk, an ounce of castor sugar,
and a small piece of whole cinnamon or vanilla
pod. Boil for a few minutes, then take out
the cinnamon or vanilla pod, and add the yolks
of two eggs. Whisk all until it is of a creamy
consistency. Before serving add a small glass
of sherry or Marsala.
Curacoa Sauce: Required: 1 oz. fresh butter,
% oz. flour, 1 gill milk, 1 oz. sugar, 1 whole egg,
y% teaspoonful vanilla essence, % oz. finely-
chopped pistachios, % oz. finely-chopped lemon
peel, 1 tablespoonful red curaoa.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the
flour and blend over the fire for a few seconds.
Moisten slowly with the milk, add the sugar,
and stir well over the fire; beat up the egg and
add also; strain the sauce into another saucepan,
let it get hot, but not boiling; stir in the lemon
peel, pistachios, and curagoa, and serve as
directed.
Foam or Whip Sauce: Put into a saucepan
the yolks of 3 eggs and one whole egg, 2 ounces
of castor sugar, the strained juice of a lemon,
a glass of marsolo or sherry and one of brandy,
put the pan in a larger one containing boiling
water, place it over the fire and whisk until the
sauce ingredients resemble foam or broth. Serve
hot or pour it over a pudding.
Hard Sauce (No. 2) : Cream up 4 ounces of
butter with 6 ounces of sugar, then stir in a
glass of sherry and the juice of half a lemon.
Beat the mixture until a fairly firm cream is
obtained. Spread it neatly on a plate and keep
on the ice till wanted; serve with hot pudding.
Brandy may be used instead of wine.
Jamaica Sauce: Peel two ripe bananas, rub
them through a fine sieve, put the pulp into
a saucepan with a gill of water, a dessertspoon-
ful of castor sugar, add a tablespoonful of white
rum, boil up, and thicken with a teaspoonful of
cornflour or cornstarch, previously mixed with a
little cold milk. Boil up, add the yolks of 2
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 105
eggs, and flavor with a few drops of vanilla
essence.
Kirsch Sauce: Proceed the same as directed
for brandy sauce, but substitute y% gill of
kirschwasser for the brandy.
Liqueur Sauce: Put the yolks of three or four
eggs in a bain-marie pan with a small glass of
maraschino, curac.oa or other suitable liqueur,
add 2 ounces of loaf sugar previously rasped on
the rind of a lemon to extract all the zest and
dissolved in half a gill of water. Place the
pan in the bain-marie or a large pan of hot
water, then whisk the sauce until it has a cream-
like texture, and serve at once.
Maraschino Sauce: Take 1 oz. fresh butter,
% oz. flour, 1 gill milk, 1 oz. sugar, 1 whole egg,
% teaspoonful vanilla essence, ^ oz. finely
chopped pistachios, ^ oz. finely chopped lemon
rind, 1 tablespoonful of maraschino.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in
the flour, and blend over the fire for a few sec-
onds. Moisten slowly with the milk, adding the
sugar, and stir well over the fire; beat up the
egg and add also; strain the sauce into another
saucepan, let it get hot, but not boiling; stir in
the lemon-peel, pistachios, and the maraschino,
and serve as required.
Marmalade Sauce: Required: ^ oz. corn-
starch or cornflour, 1 tablespoonful marmalade,
% oz. castor sugar, the juice of half a lemon, *
pint water, 1 tablespoonful sherry.
Mix the cornflour with a little cold water in
a saucepan, add to this remainder of above-
named ingredients and place on the fire, stir till
it boils and cook for ten minutes, then strain.
Moka Pudding Sauce: Take the yolks of three
eggs, one ounce of castor sugar and a liqueur
glass of Kirschwasser, a tablespoonful of cream
and half a tablespoonful of strong black coffee.
Whisk this over a saucepan of boiling water
from 10 to 15 minutes, long enough to bind. The
sauce is then ready for serving.
Nutmeg Sauce: Boil in a saucepan 1% gills
of milk with % ounce of butter and a dessert-
spoonful of castor sugar, then thicken with a
106 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
dessertspoonful of cornflour or cornstarch, add
a sufficiency of grated nutmeg to flavor, also
a dessertspoonful of brandy, and whisk it over
the fire for several minutes. Serve hot.
Orange Sauce (No. 2): Eub the rind of two
oranges all over several lumps of loaf sugar,
then scrape it off and put it into a small stew-
pan with the juice and pulp of four oranges,
previously rubbed through a fine sieve; to this
add a heaped-up dessertspoonful of arrowroot
or cornflour, previously mixed with a little cold
water, an ounce of castor sugar, and a liqueur
glassful of curac,oa. Stir over the fire until
the sauce boils, then simmer for about 5 minutes
and serve hot.
Punch Syrup: Required : 4 oz. loaf sugar,
1 orange, ^ tablespoonful vanilla essence, %
gill best rum, % gill water.
Eub the sugar on the orange rind to obtain
the flavor of half the orange. Put this into a
Stewpan, add the rum, light it, and cover quickly;
let it infuse for a few seconds over the fire,
then add the water, vanilla essence, and the
piece of orange, and boil for five minutes; strain,
and serve hot with the pudding.
NOTE: If preferred, brandy or kirschwasser
inay be used in place of rum.
Bhubarb and Banana Sauce: Stew 1 bundle
of forced rhubarb in a syrup made of 2 ozs. of
loaf sugar and % gill of water. When soft, rub
through a fine sieve. Cool and add % gill of
cream and 2 tablespoonsful of banana cut into
small dice. Serve cold with stewed rice or with
cornflour blanc mange.
Rum Sauce: Boil up in a saucepan % pint of
milk with two ounces of loaf sugar, then add
a heaped-up dessertspoonful of cornflour or corn-
starch previously mixed with a little cold milk,
re-boil, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of rum. When
serving, mix in if liked a few coarsely chopped
peeled pistachio kernels.
Bum Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a saucepan %
pint of water, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange mar-
malade, and the strained juice of a lemon; let
these boil together for five minutes, then strain,
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 107
and thicken with a dessertspoonful of cornflour
or cornstarch, previously mixed with a little cold
water, and boil for another five minutes; whisk
in an egg yolk, add also a small glass of rum,
re-heat without boiling and serve hot.
Raspberry Sauce: Heat up a gill of raspberry
pulp or a similar proportion of raspberry jam
with 1 oz. of sugar. Mix a tablespoonful of
cornflour with milk, cream or water, and stir into
the above. Boil for eight minutes, strain, and
add rum or brandy to taste.
Sabayon Sauce: Put 3 oz. castor sugar, 3
yolks of eggs, and *4 gill cream in a stewpan,
place it in a bain-marie or vessel of boiling
water over the fire, stir with a whisk until
frothy, then add 1 gill Maderia wine, whisk it
until it begins to thicken and is of light appear-
ance, pour over the pudding and serve.
Sweet Sauce: Put % pint of water into a
pan with thinly peeled rind of half a lemon,
also of half an orange, 2 ounces of sugar, a piece
of cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for
a few minutes. Mix a dessertspoonful of arrow-
root with a little sherry and add this, together
with the strained juice of half a lemon and one
orange. Stir over the fire until it thickens,
strain, and add a tablespoonful of brandy or
maraschino, and serve hot.
Sweet Chaud-froid Sauce: Soak % oz. gelatine
in cold water, strain and dissolve in a saucepan
with 1 gill of cream or milk, reduce a little
whilst stirring and add the desired flavoring,
such as fruit pulp, vanilla, kirsch, maraschino,
or rum. Cook for a few minutes, strain, and
add a little whipped cream, stir in the ice till
nearly cold, and use for coating fruit: peaches,
pears, apricots, apples, etc.
Sweet Lemon Sauce: Put 2 yolks of eggs in
a small saucepan, beat up well, and add 2 oz.
castor sugar, y 2 oz. of cornflour, and the rind
of half a lemon chopped finely. Mix thoroughly
and work in slowly half a pint of boiling milk.
Stir with a whisk over the fire until the sauce
acquires the desired consistency, strain, and serve
as directed.
108 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Sweet Melted Butter Sauce: Required 1 oz.
fresh butter, % oz. flour, 1^ gill of milk, 1 des-
sert-spoonful castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla
essence.
Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, add the
flour and stir over the fire for a few minutes
without allowing the flour to brown; then add
by degrees the milk, stir till it boils, add the
sugar, and cook for ten minutes. Just before
serving add vanilla cream.
Sweet Mousseline Sauce: Eequired 3 yolks of
eggs, 2 whites of eggs, % gill cream, 1^ oz.
castor sugar, 1 wineglassful maraschino.
Put all the above ingredients into a small
stewpan, beat it with a whisk, stand the pan
in a bain-marie or a large vessel three parts
full of boiling water. Stir until it becomes
creamy, but do not allow it to boil. Serve with
hot sweet puddings, etc.
Sweet Orange Sauce: Kequired 2 yolks of
eggs, 1 small orange, 2 oz. castor sugar, % pint
of milk, 1 glass curacoa.
Boil up the milk and sugar, add the rind of
orange finely grated, the tablespoonful of orange
juice, stir in the yolks of eggs, beat well over
the fire with a small whisk. When the sauce
begins to thicken, place in the bain-marie or
a vessel containing boiling water, add the
liqueur, and continue to whisk for ten minutes;
the sauce is then ready for serving.
Cold Strawberry Sauce: Boil up 1 gill of
strawberry pulp with 1 oz. of castor or icing
sugar. Mix a dessertspoonful of cornflour (or
cornstarch) with a tablespoonful of sherry and
stir into the above. Cook for ten minutes, strain,
add a tablespoonful of cream, and serve.
Hot Strawberry Sauce: Eequired: The pulp
of a dozen large, ripe strawberries, 1 glass of
Sauterne or Chablis, 1 egg, 1 oz. sugar.
Put the fruit pulp, wine, and sugar in a small
stewpan, whisk over a moderate fire until almost
boiling, then add the egg; continue to whisk
until quite frothy; on no account allow it to boil.
Serve as soon as ready.
Cornflour Sauce: Eequired: 1 tablespoonful
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 109
cornstarch or cornflour, y 2 pint milk, 1 pat fresh
butter, % oz. loaf sugar, lemon rind or vanilla
pod.
Boil up the milk with the butter, loaf sugar,
and the thin rind of half a lemon or an inch of
vanilla pod. Mix the cornflour with a little cold
milk in a basin, and pour on it the hot milk,
return to the saucepan, boil up, and cook for
eight minutes.
Valancia Sauce: Put a tablespoonful of red
currant jelly with a gill of water in a sauce-
pan, and stir over the fire until the jelly is dis-
solved, then add the strained juice of an orange,
and some of the rind, finely grated or cut into
fine shreds, with a few blanched and shredded
almonds or a tablespoonful of desiccated or
fresh cocoanut. Sweeten to taste, and serve
hot.
Vanilla Sauce: Proceed in the same manner as
above directed, omitting the lemon rind and
using vanilla pod in its place. A little cream may
be added just before serving.
Vanilla Sauce (No. 2): Boil 1 gill of milk
with % a vanilla pod; cream 3 egg yolks with
1 oz. of castor sugar, and pour over, whilst
stirring, the milk. Eeturn all into the stewpan
and stir over the fire till it thickens, but must
not boil. Strain and serve as required (hot or
cold).
Wine Sauce: Put into a jar or bain-marie pan
3 e gg yolks, a gill of sherry, Marsala or Ma-
deira, and a tablespoonful of castor sugar. Place
the pan in a bain-marie or else in a large sauce-
pan of boiling water, and whisk till frothy and
of creamlike consistency. It must not boil or
it will curdle.
STORE SAUCES.
Condiment or Relish Sauces for the Kitchen and
the Table.
Albany Sauce: Put the yolks of 2 hard-boiled
eggs and the yolk of one raw egg, also a little
salt and paprika pepper, into a mixing basin,
and mix till quite smooth with a wooden spoon,
110 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
then stir in slowly a gill of Lucca oil, a table-
spoonful of mushroom catsup, a tablespoonful of
Harvey sauce, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence
2 tablespoonfuls of tomato pulp, and the strained
juice of a fresh lemon. Mix all well together,
and serve as required for grilled fish or grilled
meat (use it as cold meat sauce or as a salad
sauce).
Balmoral Sauce: Put into a saucepan a quart
of vinegar, 2 ounces of currants, 1 ounce of
raisins, a pint of green gooseberries, and 2 ounces
of Demerara sugar; let all simmer slowly for
half an hour, then put into a bowl a teaspoonful
of mustard, a teaspoonful of turmeric, a tea-
spoonful of mace, and a good pinch of salt; mix
together with y 2 pint of tarragon vinegar. Pass
all through a wire sieve, and mix well together.
Put the sauce into bottles well corked, where it
will keep for any length of time.
Chutney Catsup: Peel, quarter and core 1
dozen large sour apples, and pass them through
a mincing machine, together with 6 tomatoes,
4 peeled and sliced onions, and % Ib. of stoned
raisins. Boil one quart of malt vinegar and one
quart of cider vinegar for 10 minutes, with y 2
Ib. of brown sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, and
a spice bag containing one whole nutmeg, a
piece of ginger root, a pounded stick of cinna-
mon, 12 whole cloves, and a tablespoonful of
allspice. Then add the minced vegetables and
fruit, and cook all gently to the consistency of
a puree. Put it into air tight jars or wide
mouthed bottles.
Cucumber Catsup: Peel and grate or chop 2
dozen small ripe cucumbers, put them into a large
basin or pan, sprinkle over with salt, and allow
them to stand covered for three hours, then pour
off the liquid formed. Measure the pulp, and
to every quart add 2 peeled and finely chopped
Spanish onions, a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper
and a teaspoonful each of salt, ground cloves,
and allspice. Bring slowly to the boil, pouring
in gradually as the catsup begins to simmer a
quart of French wine vinegar. Cook for 15
minutes, and when cold pour into bottles or
glass jars, cork and seal.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 111
Cumberland Catsup: Put into an earthenware
jar 6 Ibs, of white or red grapes, place the jar
in a larger vessel of boiling water, and cook until
the skins of the grapes burst. Strain the juice
carefully into a clean cooking vessel, and return
to the fire, add to each quart of grape juice ^
Ib. of granulated sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, a
tablespoonful of salt, a tablesponful of whole
cloves, half a grated nutmeg, a teasponful ground
allspice, and a tablespoonful ground cinnamon.
Boil slowly for about an hour, pour whilst hot
into bottle, and cork them well.
Mushroom Catsup: Wipe half a bushel of
freshly gathered mushrooms with a damp cloth,
and arrange in layers in a large stone jar,
sprinkle each layer liberally with fine salt. Let
them remain thus for about 12 hours. Mash
up the mushrooms well with a potato masher,
carefully straining off the juice through a fine
sieve or berry press. Add to this liquid a tea-
spoonful of black pepper, half a dozen whola
cloves, and 2 sticks of cinnamon to each pint
of mushroom liquor, then boil slowly until re-
duced about one-half, strain through a muslin
bag or cheesecloth, and dilute with 2 tablespoon-
fuls of spiced vinegar to every pint of catsup.
Put into bottles, cork and capsule or seal them.
Tomato Catsup: Take 3 or 4 Ibs. of ripe to-
matoes and mash them up, to this add 2 large
onions peeled and chopped, 4 green peppers also
chopped finely, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 3 table-
spoonfuls of moist or Demerara sugar, % gill
of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of crushed
whole cinnamon, 1 dessertspoonful of mustard,
and half a grated nutmeg. Put all into a sauce-
pan with .3 quarts of vinegar, boil gently until
all the ingredients are thoroughly cooked, which
will take about 3 hours, then strain and bottle
while hot.
Walnut Catsup: Boil some green walnuts till
tender in sufficient water to well cover them,
then press them and measure the liquid. To
each gallon of this add *4 Ib. anchovies, and 4 oz.
shallots, peeled and cut up small, % ounce cloves,
y 2 ounce mace, and 1 clove of garlic bruised or
112 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
crushed. Boil for about 20 minutes, then strain
and bottle and cork.
Dunraven Sauce: Mash up 6 ripe tomatoes and
4 large peeled and cooked apples, and pass them
through a wire sieve. Put these into a large
jar, and add a tablespoonful of grated horse-
radish, a teaspoonful of mustard, a glass of
port wine, the juice of 2 lemons, a quart of wal-
nut catsup, an ounce of moist sugar, also a tea-
spoonful of salt, and a / teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper. Mix these ingredients well together,
boil up, skim and strain, then bottle and cork.
Empress Sauce: Peel and chop finely 2 onions,
fry them in 2 ounces of clarified butter till of
a light brown color, add half a dozen chillies or
capricums, cut into small pieces and ^ tea-
spoonful of salt. Stir all well together for a
few minutes, and whilst stirring add the strained
juice of a lemon, % pint of vinegar, a pint of
tomato pulp, a little water, and a tablespoon-
ful of Liebig's Extract of Meat or Marmite
Extract. Bub all through a fine sieve, boil up
again, then bottle and use as required.
Madras Sauce: Put into a large jar 6 chopped
ripe tomatoes, 4 green cooking apples (peeled
and chopped), a few sprigs of green tarragon, 2
capsicums, 2 ounces sultanas, 1 ounce stoned
raisins, 2 ounces Demerara sugar, and a quart
of vinegar. Put the jar in a slow oven for 2
hours. Mix a teaspoonful of mustard, a table-
spoonful of grated horse-radish a teaspoonful of
ground ginger, and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub
the contents of the jar through a fine sieve,
add to the other ingredients, boil again and
bottle and cork when cold.
Newcastle Sauce: Pound in a mortar an ounce
of black peppercorns, and mix with y 2 ounce of
allspice, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dust of
coralline pepper, an ounce of grated horse-radish,
and 4 shallots peeled and chopped finely. Put
these ingredients into a jar with a pint of good
mushroom catsup, together with a pint of Wor-
cester sauce and about half an ounce of bruised
ginger. Cover the jar and let it stand for a
fortnight, then strain off the sauce and bottle
for use.
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 113
Onion Sauce: Put into an earthenware jar
an ounce of cayenne or a similar quantity of
bruised capsicum or red pepper, a pint of small
peeled button onions, a tablespoonful of salt,
3 tablespoonfuls of Indian Soy, and */ gill of
mushroom ketchup, then boil up 3 pints of vine-
gar and pour over the ingredients. Cover the
jar and allow it to stand for about a week,
shaking it frequently. Boil up the liquid with
another half pint of vinegar, and pour it back
on to the ingredients in the jar. Allow it to
stand for another week, then strain and bottle
for use.
Queen Mary Sauce (Sauce Eeine-Marie) : This
is a rich brown sauce made with meat gravy
basis, thickened with Espagnole and reduced
with a little port wine, then add finely chopped
fried shallots, chopped parsley, and a little an-
chovy essence to flavor.
Salad Dressing: Rub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled
eggs through a seive into a basin, add one table-
spoonful of Demerara sugar, one tablespoonful
of mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon and
a tablespoonful of chilli vinegar, also a tea-
spoonful of anchovy sauce. Mix these well to-
gether, then add by degrees half a pint of cream
(two or three days old if procurable). Should
a large quantity be made, this dressing will keep
good for one month if kept tightly corked in
a cool place.
Salad Dressing: (No. 2): Put the yolks of
three fresh eggs into a basin, with half a tea-
spoonful of salt, a little mignonette pepper, a
teaspoonful of French mustard, a pinch of Eng-
lish mustard, and a saltspoonful of castor sugar,
mix well, then stir in gradually about half a
pint of salad oil, with a tablespoonful of tarra-
gon vinegar and a dessertspoonful of chilli vine-
gar. Stir or whisk well together until of a
creamlike texture, then add a tablespoonful of
boiling hot water, and lastly about a gill of
cream.
Spanish Salad Dressing: Put into a mixing
basin 1 gill of cream, 1 pint of wine vinegar,
Y2 ounce of castor sugar, y 2 teaspoonful of
114 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
cayenne, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 dessert-
spoonful of mustard, and mix all thoroughly.
Cream an ounce of butter, adding the yolks of
3 eggs at the same time, then stir in about half
a gill of boiling water. Whisk to a froth the
whites of 2 eggs, and add this also, then blend
both mixtures. Stand the basin in a pan of
boiling water, and whisk until the sauce is
quite warm, lastly stir in about a gill of Lucca
or olive oil. The oil should, however, not be
added until the sauce has cooled off a little.
Bottle and cork the sauce, and use as required.
It is well to always shake the bottle before
using the dressing.
Tarragon Cream Sauce: Put into a basin the
yolks of 2 eggs, stir well till smooth, and add
gradually % pint of good salad oil; when creamy
add % teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of made
mustard, and a saltspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoon-
fuls of anchovy essence, a gill of tarragon vine-
gar, a gill of thick cream, and 2 tablespoonfuls
of castor sugar. Mix well together and bottle
the sauce. Shake well before using, as the
ingredients settle at the bottom. This sauce
is excellent with all kinds of cold meat, or may
be used with any kind of salad.
Tarragon Herb Sauce: Einse in cold water a
bunch of tarragon with a little chervil and a
small proportion of other sweet herbs, then drain
thoroughly on a cloth. Strip off the leaves into
an earthenware jar, pour over a quart of boiling
vinegar, cover closely and allow to stand for one
or two days, then strain, and mix with one-third
of Tomato Catsup and one-third of Harvey or
Worcestershire sauce. The sauce is then ready
for bottling.
Tomato Sauce: Cut 6 pounds of ripe tomatoes
into slices, and put them into a saucepan with
2 large onions peeled and sliced, ^ pound of
Demerara sugar, an ounce of salt, % an ounce
of peppercorns, half a teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper, half an ounce of ground cloves, and 4
ounces of allspice. Pour over two quarts of
vinegar and boil gently for 2 hours. Stir fre-
quently to prevent burning, then rub all through
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 115
a fine sieve. When the sauce is cold, add a
little carmine to give it a nice reddish color,
then bottle securely and store in a cool, dry place.
Tomato Sauce (No. 2): Wipe the required
quantity of ripe tomatoes with a cloth, and
bake the fruit in a slow oven until tender. Next
rub all through a sieve and measure the pulp
thus obtained. To each quart of pulp add a pint
of tarragon vinegar, *4 ounce shallots and 1
clove of garlic, both peeled and bruised, also
1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence. Boil all in
a copper pan until the shallots are tender. Now
rub all through a sieve again, and re-boil with.
% pint of vinegar and 1 gill of Indian Soy to
every quart of tomato pulp.
Tomato Chutnee Sauce: Peel and slice 6 large-
sized tomatoes, add to them 4 sour apples peeled
and sliced, put into a stewpan with 4 Spanish
onions peeled and sliced, a dozen' chillies, 6
cloves, a cupful of brown sugar, a quart of vine-
gar, and boil gently until all is thoroughly
cooked. Pass all through a fine sieve; color
if liked with a little liquid carmine, then bottle
and cork or put into jars, and use when cold.
Universal Sauce (Sauce TJniverselle) : This is
a highly spiced cold meat sauce, prepared with, a
pint of mushroom ketchup, a gill of port wine,
4 peeled and finely chopped shallots, half a pint
of vinegar, ground whole spice, mace and cayenne
pepper to taste. Mix well and allow to mature
before using.
Worcestershire Sauce: Take 3 quarts of strong
vinegar, 1 Ib. of split raisins, 1 Ib. garlic, *4 lb.
eschalot, % ounce cayenne, ^ ounce powdered
ginger, salt to taste, small bottle of anchovies,
and mushroom ketchup. Boil the anchovies,
garlic, eschalot, and raisins in a quart of the
vinegar in an iron saucepan until it can be pulped
through a hair sieve, then boil all together for
a few minutes. Bottle when cold. It is essential
that the ingredients should be thoroughly boiled
before being pulped.
Worcestershire Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a
mortar % ounce capsicums or sweet peppers, %
ounce peeled shallots and a clove of garlic, and
116 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
pound till quite smooth. Add a little vinegar
and put all into a large jar; boil up one quart
of vinegar and pour it over the pounded ingre-
dients, add also a pint of walnut ketchup. Cover
the jar and allow it to stand for some weeks, or
long enough to extract the flavor of the ingre-
dients used, then strain and bottle for use.
Yankee Sauce: Put into a saucepan 1 quart
of vinegar, % oz. allspice, 44 oz. ground cloves,
44 oz. black pepper, y 2 oz. mustard, 2 ozs.
ground Jamaica ginger, 44 oz. salt, 44 oz. garlic,
2 ozs. sugar, 8 ozs. tamarinds, 1 oz. curry pow-
der, 44 oz. cayenne pepper, y 2 pint sherry.
Mix the ingredients well together, and sim-
mer gently for about an hour, adding enough
vinegar from time to time to make up for loss
by evaporation. Let stand for a week, then
strain and bottle. A little burnt sugar (cara-
mel) or soy may be added to give the sauce a
better color.
FLAVORING OB COMPOUND BUTTERS.
Flavoring butters are used for numerous culi-
nary purposes; they were originally introduced
for imparting a specially desired flavor to
sauces, and for this purpose they are still
largely used. They are also very convenient
and useful to serve with grilled meat and grilled
fish, for sandwiches and toasts. The taste for
hors-d'oeuvre and savories has increased consid-
erably during the past few years. Flavoring
butters or beurres composes, as they are termed
in kitchen French, have been largely introduced
in many other preparations besides those above
named. They are used under the titles hors-
d'oeuvre and savories. They have also proved
eminently satisfactory when used for sauces,
i. e., "compound sauces."
Flavoring butter is added to sauces at the last
moment before being served, the object being
o give a sauce the requisite fresh-butter flavor,
which is deemed most essential to a well pre-
pared sauce, as it imparts at the same time the
and distinctive aroma of the condi-
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 117
ment from which the butter obtains its name.
Most cooks are aware that besides the use of
these butters for sauces there are many other
ways in which they can be employed, for they
are eminently suitable for all kinds of sand-
wiches and for dainty, savory croutes; the addi-
tion of a nicely blended butter makes a won-
derful improvement both in appearance and
flavor to such dishes. Several of these butters
will be found excellent with cold game, cold
duck, cold beef or mutton; others may be used
for spreading toasts, biscuits, etc. For deco-
rating little cold hors-d'oeuvre and savories
these butters are exceedingly useful, as they en-
hance the appearance of many such dishes.
Take the humble maitre d 'hotel butter as an
example, and you will have some idea of the
many purposes for which flavoring butters can
be used.
The following recipes comprise the most pop-
ular and most useful flavoring butters. Each
one possesses all the essentials of an appetizing,
tasty, and well seasoned compound.
Anchovy Butter (Beurre d'Anchois): Ingredi-
ents: Six Gorgona anchovies, two ounces and
a half of butter, and half a lemon. Method:
Soak the anchovies in cold water, drain, take
out the bones, wipe dry with a cloth, pound in
a mortar with the butter, add the juice of a
lemon, rub through a fine sieve, spread on a
plate, put on the ice, and use as directed.
Chutney Butter (Beurre a la Madras): In-
gredients: Four ounces of Mango chutney, 1
tablespoonful of French mustard, 6 to 8 ounces
of fresh butter, and lemon juice. Method:
Pound the chutney in a mortar, add the French
mustard, and work in the fresh butter, season
to taste, and add a few drops of lemon juice.
Rub through a hair sieve, place it on the ice,
and use as required.
Devilled Butter (Beurre a la Diable): 1% oz.
butter, 1/2 teaspoonful cayenne pepper, 1 salt-
spoonful black pepper, curry powder, ground
ginger. Mix the butter with the cayenne pep-
per, black pepper, a pinch of curry powder, and
1*8 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
a pinch of ground ginger. Spread on a plate,
and use for grilled cutlets, chops, etc.
Mint Butter: Take 1 oz. butter, perfectly
fresh (unsalted) and mix with 2 teaspoonfuls of
finely chopped green mint, add also a few drops
of lemon ."juice, and blend this well with the
butter.
Note: Besides being useful to impart mint
flavor to certain sauces, mint butter is delicious
for spreading thin slices of bread, when a
dainty sandwich made of minced lamb is de-
sired.
Pimiento Butter: Drain a Spanish pimiento,
cut it up small, and pound it till smooth in a
mortar with 4-6 oz. of fresh butter and a little
lemon- juice, then rub through a fine sieve and
season to taste.
Horse-Radish Butter (Beurre de Eaifort): %
stick horseradish, 4 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful
chilli vinegar, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. Wash
the horse-radish, scrape off the outer skin, and
grate finely with white part. Mix with the
butter, the chilli vinegar, and lemon-juice, and
season with pepper and salt. Kub through &
fine sieve, spread on a plate, and put on the ice.
Cut into diamond shapes or little rounds, and
serve with grilled fillets of beef (tournedos) or
steaks.
Tomato Butter (Beurre au Tomate): Peel
and free from moisture 3 small ripe tomatoes,
pound them in a mortar with the same weight
of butter, then cook quickly over the fire, sea-
son with salt and pepper, and rub through a
fine sieve or tammy.
Spanish Butter (Beurre Espagnol) : 2 oz.
lean ham, 2 tablespoonfuls espagnole sauce, 6 oz.
fresh butter, nutmeg. Pound the ham in a
mortar till smooth, then add the well reduced
espagnole sauce; incorporate by degrees the
butter, season to taste with pepper and finely
grated nutmeg, and rub through a hair sieve.
Keep on the ice till wanted.
Beurre Maitre d* Hotel or Parsley Butter: 1
oz. fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley,
1 saltspoonful of chopped mixed tarragon and
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 119
chervil, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. Mix the
butter with the parsley, tarragon, chervil,
lemon-juice, a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread
on a plate, put on the ice, and shape into pats
when quite firm.
Watercress Butter (Beurre de Ruisseau): In-
gredients: Watercress, fresh butter, white pep-
per, and salt. Method: Pick the leaves of the
required quantity of watercress, dry them in a
cloth, and mince them as fine as possible, then
knead them with as much fresh butter as they
will take up, adding a very little salt and white
pepper. Put the mixture thus obtained on a
plate, spread it out evenly, and place on the ice.
Stamp out some little rounds and serve in a glass
dish, or use for other purposes as described.
Ham Butter (Beurre au Jambon): Ingredi-
ents: Four ounces of cooked lean ham, 2 ounces
of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of double
cream, salt, and cayenne. Method: Pound the
finely chopped lean ham, add the butter and
double cream; season to taste with white pepper and
cayenne. Pass through a fine sieve, put it on
the ice, and use as required.
Lobster Butter (Beurre de Homard) : Ingredi-
ents: Lobster spawn and coral and fresh but-
ter. Method: Procure the eggs (spawn) and
coral of a lobster, pound till smooth in a mor-
tar with double its quantity of fresh butter,
rub through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool
place till required.
Montpellier Butter (Beurre Montpellier) : In-
gredients: Two ounces of parsley, chervil, tar-
ragon, chives, and "cress; 2 anchovies, 9 yolks
of hard-boiled eggs, 3 ounces of butter, 1 tea-
spoonful of capers, and 1 gherkin. Method:
Wash and pick the parsley, cress and herbs;
blanch for three minutes, strain, and cool.
Drain well in a cloth and pound in a mortar.
Put this on a plate and clean the mortar. Wipe
and bone the anchovies; pound them in a mor-
tar with the egg yolks, capers, and gherkins.
When quite smooth add the butter, lastly the
green puree. Mix the whole well together.
Put through a wire sieve, and use as required.
120 THE BOOK OF SAUCES
A little spinach greening may be added if the
herbs should not color the butter sufficiently.
Paprika Butter (Eeurre au Paprika): In-
gredients: Four ounces of fresh butter and 1
teaspoonful of paprika (Hungarian pepper).
Method: Put the paprika on a clean plate with
the butter, and mix it to a smooth paste, then
put it on ice or in a cool place and use when
required.
Bavigote, or Green Herb Butter (Beurre
Ravigote): Ingredients: 1^ ozs. chervil, 2 ozs.
of spinach, iy% ozs. of green chives, 1 oz. of
tarragon, % oz. of parsley, 3 or 4 shallots, 6^
ozs. of butter, pepper, and salt. Method: Wash
and pick the chervil, spinach, green chives, tar-
ragon, and parsley. Put it in a sauce-pan with
water and blanch. Drain well and pound in a
mortar. Peel 3 or 4 shallots, chop finely, cook
them in a little butter until of a golden color,
and put with the herbs; work in 6 ozs. of but-
ter, rub through a fine sieve, add a little pepper
and salt and spinach greening if necessary. The
butter is then ready for use.
Shrimp or Crayfish Butter (Beurre d'Ecre-
visses): Ingredients: % pint of picked shrimps
or prawns, 3 ozs. of fresh butter, and % oz. of
anchovy paste. Method: Pound the picked
shrimps or prawns in a mortar till smooth, add
the fresh butter, and anchovy paste; mix thor-
oughly and rub through a fine sieve. Keep on
the ice till wanted. A little liquid carmine or
cochineal may be added to color if found neces-
sary.
INDEX
A Admiral sauce 34
Aigre-douche sauce 34
Albany sauce 35, 109
Albert sauce 35
Albufera sauce 35
Allemande sauce 35
Allspice 20
Almond sauce 100
t Almond sauce for fruit salad 100
[Almond cream sauce 100
-American (Americaine) sauce. . . 35
> Anchois, beurre d' t 117; Cremed' 36
Anchoia aux oeufs sauce 36
* Anchovy butter, 117; cream 36
Anchovy (anchois) sauce 35
lAnchovy egg sauce 36
'Apple sauce (and brown) 9<
'Apricot sauce 101
Aromatic herbs, 23; plants 22
^Aromatic spice 22
Aspic cream, 49; creme a 1' 49
Aspic jelly, 34; mayonnaise. ... 36
Aspic, tomato (a la tomate) 36
Auxiliary recipes for sauces. ... 30
;Aurora sauce 36
' Avignonese (Avignonnaise) sauce 36
Ayola sauce 36
8 Balmoral sauce. 110
Banana cream sauce 101
fU/una and rhubarb sauce 106
Basil 25
Batarde sauce (cold) (hot). . .36, 37
teavaroise sauce 36
Bay-leaves 25
Bearnaise sauce 36
iBearnaise s'ce (brune) (tomate) . 38
'Bechamel sauce 11, 13, 38
Bechamel sc., maigre (and white). 38
'Beef marrow sauce 88
[Beefsteak sauce 39
Bercy sauce 39
>Seurre d'anchois 117
'Beurre Cremeuse sauce 43
Beurre a la diable 117
Seurre d'ecrevisses 120
3eurre Espagnol 118
; 3eurre de homard 119
3eurre au jambon 1 19
ieurre a la Madras 117
\ 3eurre, maitre d'hotel 118
\ 'Bern-re Montpellier 119
I Seurre noir, 41; sauce 39
|3eurre au paprika 120
L- Jeurre de Raifort 118
i 3etirre Ravigote 120
[ Ueurre de Ruisseau 119
I ieurre, Sauce au 42
Jeurre au tomate 118
3igarde sauce 39
I Slack butter sauce 39
\ Slanc roux 7
\ Blanche chaudfroid sauce 47
< .Blanche sauce 90
i Blanche sauce matelote 67
i Blanche sauce champignons 45
: banquette sauce 39
t blonde chaud-froid sauce 47
l ilond roux 7
i Blood liaison 9
Boar's head sauce
Bohemian (Bohemienne) sauce.
Bonne femme sauce
Bonnefoy sauce
Bordeaux sauce
Bordelaise sauce
Bourg
61
39
.. 40
... 40
... 40
.. 42
23,30
...101
101
Bouquet garni
Brandy butter
Brandy sauce
Bread sauce 40
Breton (Bretonne) sauce 41
Brown apple sauce 97
Brown butter sauce 41
Brown caper sauce 44
Brown (brune) chaudfroid sauce. 47
Brown fish sauce 42
Brown fish sauce, rich 56
Brown gravy 63
Brown herb sauce 48
Brown mushroom sauce 45
Brown (brim) roux 8
Brown sauces 13.16
Brown sauce vs. Espagnole 11
Brown savory sauce 16
Brune sauce, bearnaise 3*
Brune sauce aux capres 44
Brune sauce, champignons 45
Brune sauce, matelote 67
Brune sauce, pour poisson 4z
Bulgare sauce 42
Bulgarian sauce, cold 42
Burgundy sauce 42
BuiST:. 24
Butter, anchory 117
Butter, brandy 101
Butter, chutney 117
Butters, compound 116
Butter. crayfihTT. 120
Butter, devilled 117
Butters, flavoring 116
Butter, green hero 120
Batter, ham 119
Butter, horseradish 1 18
Butter liaison, 8; kneaded.
Butter, lobster 119
Butter, mint 118
Butter, Montpellier 119
Butter, paprika 120
Butter, parsley 118
Butter, pimiento 118
Butter ravigote 120
Batter sauce, 42; creamed 43
Butter sauce, melted 60
Butter sauce, sweet melted 108
Butter, shrimp 120
Butter, Spanish 118
Butter, tomato 118
Butter, watercress 119
Byron sauce 43
CCalvinesaoee 43
Cambridge sauce, 43; cold. . 44
Canopere sauce 44
Caper sauce (and brown) 44
Capres, sauce aux 44
Capres, brune sauce aux 44
Caper mayonnaise 95
Capsicum 25
Caramel, liquid 33
122
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Caramel sauce 101
Cardinal sauce 44
Cardinale, mayonnaise a la 95
Carrots 27
Catsup, chutney (cucumber) 110
Catsup, Cumberland, mushroom,
tomato, walnut Ill
Cayenne pepper 22
Celeri, creme de 45
Celery cream sauce 45
Celery sauce 44
Champagne sauce 45
Champignons sauce blanche 45
Champignons sauce, brune 45
Chasseur sauce (Royal) 46
Chateaubriand sauce 48
Chaudeau sauce 102
Chaudfroids 16
Chaudfroid sauce, blanche,
blonde, brown (brune), fawn,
green, pink, white 47
Chaudfroid sauce, sweet 107
Chaude sauce aux concombres.. . 50
Chaude sauce, raifort 61
Chaud sauce, ravigote 79
Cherry sauce 98, 102
Chervil 24
Chestnut sauce 47
Chestnut sauce (savory) (sweet) . 48
Chevreuil sauce 48
Chicken essence 32
Chicken, hot sauce for fried 78
Chocolate sauce (cold) 102
Chopped parsley 32
Chutnee sauce, tomato 115
Chutney butter, 117; catsup. . . .110
Chutney sauce 48
Cinnamon 21
Citron, sauce au 63
Claret sauce 103
Cloves 20
Coffee sauce 103
Colbert sauce aux fines herbes ... 48
Cold batarde sauce 37
Cold Bulgarian sauce 42
)old Cambridge sauce 44
\Jold chocolate sauce 102
Jold cucumber sauce 49
Cold game sauce 50
Dold horseradish cream 61
Cold puddings, sweet sauces for . 100
Cold ravigotte sauce 79
Cold salad sauces 16
Cold sauces 15
Cold strawberry sauce 108
Cold Swedish sauce 84
Cold sweet sauces 16
Coffee custard sauce 103
Compound butters 116
Compound sauces 34
Concombres, chaude sauce aux. . 50
Concombres, sauce aux 49
Condiment scs. (table) (kitchen). 109
Coriander 21
Cornflour sauce 108
Crab sauce 50
Cranberry sauce 50, 98
Crapaudine sauce 46
Crayfish butter, 120; sauce 52
Cream anchovy 36
Cream, aspic 49
Cream, cold horseradish 61
Cream liaison 8
Cream sauce 49
Cream sauce, banana 101
Cream sauce, celery 45
Cream savory 49
Cream sauce, tomato 86
Cream sauce, tarragon 114
Creamed butter sauce 43
Creme d' anchois 36
Creme a 1'aspic 49
Creme de celeri 45
Creme de Raifort, froid 61
Creme, sauce a la 49
Creme a la tomate sauce 86
Cremeuse sauce, beurre 43
Crevettes, sauce aux 82
Croutes, sweet sauces for 100
Cucumber catsup 110
Cucumber sauce, hot, cold 49, 50
Cumberland catsup Ill
Cumberland sauce 50, 95
Curacoa sauce 104
Curry 21
Curry sauce, Indian 62
Curry (currie) sauce 51
Custard sauce (coffee) 103
Cutlets, reforme, sauce for 79
T\ Damso^ sauce 98
*-^ Danish (Danoise) sauce .... 51
Demi-glace sauce 51
Demi-pro vencale sauce 78
Devilled butter (beurre) 117
Deviled sauce 52
Diable, sauce (a la) .52, 95
Distinction between gravies and
sauces 6
Dressing, salad (Spanish) 113
Duchesse sauce 52
Dunraven sauce 112
Dutch sauce, 58, 59; green 60
Duxelle puree 31
EEchalote sauce 52
Ecrevisses, beurre d' 120
Ecrevisses, sauce (aux) 52
Egg liaison 8
Egg sauce, 72; anchovy 36
Empress sauce 112
Epicure (epicurean) sauce .... 52, 53
Espagnol, beurre 118
Espagnole vs. brown sauce 11
Espagnole sauce 11, 53
Essence, chicken 32
Essence de Gibier sauce 54
Essence, to make 10
Essences of meat 10
Essence de volaille 32
Estragon, sauce a 1' 54
F Farinaceous liaison 9
Farmhouse sauce 54
Fawn chaudfroid sauce 47
Fawn roux 7
Fennel (fenouil) sauce 54
Fermiere sauce 54
Financiere sauce 54
Fine herb sauce 65
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
123
Fines herbes sauce, Colbert 48
Fines herbes, mayonnaise aux. . . 94
Fish sauce, brown 42
Fish sauce, rich brown 56
Fish sauce (white) 91
Fish, savory sauces for 34
Fish stock 30
Flamande sauce 54
Flavoring butters 116
Flavoring and seasoning 17
Flemish sauce 54
Fleurette sauce 54
Foam sauce 104
Frappee, Raifort sauce 61
Fried Chicken, hot sauce for 78
Fritters, sweet sauces for 100
Froid creme de raifort 61
Froid ravigotte sauce 79
Fruit salad, almond sauce for ... 100
Fruit sauces 97
Fruit timbales, sweet sauces for.,100
Fumet, 11; of game (de gibier) . . 31
GGame sauce, 55; cold 50
Game, savory sauces for 34
Game, fumet of 31
Garibaldi sauce 55
Garlic 26
Gelee, mayonnaise a la 95
Generate sauce 55
Genoise sauce 55
Gibier sauce, 55; essence de . . . . 54
Gibier, fumet de 31
Giblet sauce 56
Ginger 28
Glacee sauce, verte 88
Glace de viande 31
Glaze, meat 31
Good woman sauce 38
Gooseberry sauce 56, 98
Gouffe sauce 56
Granyille sauce 57
Gravies and sauces, distinction
between 6
Gravy, brown 63
Gravy, without meat 57
Green chaudfroid sauce 47
Green Dutch sauce 60
Green herb sauce, 87; butter ... 120
Green mayonnaise 94
Green mousseline sauce 57, 71
Green sauce, iced 88
Gribiche sauce 57
Groseilles vertes, sauce aux 56
O Hache, persil 32
* * Hachis sauce 58
Half-glaze sauce 51
Ham butter 119
Ham sauce 58
Hard sauce 104
Herbs, aromatic 23
Herb sauce, brown 48
Herbes sauce, Colbert 48
Herb sauce, line 65
Herb sauce, tarragon 114
Hessoise sauce 58
Hints on stock making 29
History of sauce making 3
Hollandaise sauce 58, 59
Hollandaise sauce, inexpensive . . 59
Hollandaise sauce, verte 60
Holstein sauce 60
Homard, Beurre de, 119; sauce. . 64
Horly sauce 60
Horseradish butter 118
Horseradish cream, cold 61
Horseradish sauce 60
Horseradish sauce (hot) (iced).. . 61
Hot batarde sauce 37
Hot cucumber sauce 50
Hot plain sauces 15
Hot puddings, sweet sauces for. . 100
Hot ravigote sauce 79
Hot sauce for fried chicken 78
Hot sauces (list) 15
Hot savory sauces 16
Hot strawberry sauce 108
Hot Swedish (Suedoise), sauce . . 84
Hot sweet sauces 16
Huitres, sauce aux 74
Hure de sanglier sauce 61
Ilced green sauce 88
Iced horseradish sauce 61
Indian curry sauce 62
Indienne sauce, 62; remoulade. . 96
Inexpensive hollandaise sauce ... 59
Italian (Italienne) sauce 62
J Jamaica sauce 104
Jambon, beurre au 119
Jambon sauce 58
Jelly (aspic) (savory) 34
Joinville sauce 62
Juice, meat 32
Jus, 63; Jus-gravy 57
Jus d'orange sauce 74
KKari sauce 63
Kirsch sauce 105
Kitchen, condiment sauces for. . . 109
Kitchen, relish sauces for 109
Kneaded butter liaison 9
Krona pepper 23
L Lemons 28
Lemon sauce, 63; sweet. ... 107
Liaisons 6
Liaison, blood, farinaceous 9
Liaison, butter, cream, egg, roux . 8
Liaisons (in general) 32
Liaison, kneaded butter 9
Liqueur sauce 105
Liquid caramel 33
Livournaise sauce 64
Lobster sauce, 64; butter 119
Long pepper 22
Lyonnaise sauce 64
MMace.... 21
Maderia (Madere), sauce. .. 64
Madras, beurre a la, 117; sauce. 112
Maigre sauce, bechamel 38
Maintenon sauce 6-5
Maitre d'hotel beurre, 118; sauce 65
Malaga sauce 65
Maltaise sauce 65
Maraschino sauce 105
Marchand de vin sauce 68
124
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Marguery sauce 66
Marinade sauce 66
Mariniere sauce 66
Marjoram 25
Marmalade sauce 105
Marseillaise sauce 67
Matelote sauce (blanche) (brune). 67
Maximilian sauce 68
Mayonnaise 92
Mayonnaise, aspic 36
Mayonnaise, caper, cardinale,
gelee, truffle, Portugaise 95
Mayonnaise, fine herbes, green,
tomato 94
Mayonnaise, plain 93
Mayonnaise sauce, 68; tomatee. 69
Meat glaze 31
Meat juice 32
Meat, savory sauces for 34
Medicis sauce 69
Melted butter sauce, 69; sweet .108
Menthe, sauce a la 69
Mignonette pepper 22
Mint, 25; butter, 118; sauce. ... 69
Mirabeau sauce 70
Mirepoix 9
Miroton sauce 70
Moelle de boeuf, sauce 38
Moka pudding sauce 105
Montpellier butter (buerre) 119
Mornay sauce 70
Moules, sauce aux 72
Mousseline sauce, green 57, 71
Mousseline sauce, sweet 108
Mousseline sauce, verte 57, 71
Mousseline sauce, white 70
Moutarde sauce 71
Mushroom catsup Ill
Mushrooms, to chop 32
Mushroom sauce (brown) (white). 45
Mussel sauce 72
Mustard, 21; sauce 71
NNantua sauce 72
Newcastle sauce 112
Nicoise sauce 72
Noisette sauce 72
Nonpareille sauce 72
Nonnande sauce 72
Norvegienne sauce 72
Nut sauce 72
Nutmeg 20
Nutmeg sauce 105
OOeufs, anchois, sauce aux. . . 36
Oeufs, sauce aux 72
Oignons, sauce aux 73
Onions 26
Onion, to chop 32
Onion sauce 73, 113
Oporto sauce 99
Orange sauce. 73, 98, 106
Orange sauce, jus 74
Orange sauce, sweet 108
Orlay sauce 60
Oseille sauce 74
Oyster sauce 74
Overcooking of sauces 14
~'~~g, error in 14
PPain, sauce au 40
Paprika butter (beurre) 120
Paprika sauce 75
Parisienne sauce 75
Parsley 23
Parsley butter 118
Parsley, chopped 32
Parsley sauce 65, 75
Pauvre homme sauce 77
Pekoe sauce 75
Pepper, cayenne, long, mignon-
ette 22
Pepper, Krona 23
Pepper or salt, pinch of 23
Pepper sauce 77, 96
Perigueux sauce 75
Persil hache 32
Persil sauce 75
Perisilade sauce 75
Piment sauce 75
Pimiento butter US
Pink chaudfroid sauce 47
Piquante (tartare) sauce 76
Plain mayonnaise 93
Plain sauces 13-15
Plain sauces, hot 15
Plants, aromatic 23
Poisson, brun sauce pour 42
Poiyrade sauce 77
Polish sauce 77
Polonaise sauce 77
Pompadour sauce 77
Poor man's sauce 77
Portugaise, mayonnaise a la 95
Portugaise sauce 77
Poulette sauce 77
Poultry, savory sauces for 34
Prawn sauce 52
Preparations from stocks 30
Prince de Galles sauce 78
Prince of Wales sauce 78
Princesse sauce 78
Provencale sauce 78
Pudding sauce, Moka 105
Puddmgs, sweet sauces for
(cold) (hot) 100
Punch syrup 106
Puree, Duxelle 31
Q Queen Mary sauce 113
D Raifort, beurre de 118
^ Raifort, creme de, f roid .... 61
Raifort sauce, chaude (f rappee). . 61
Raisin sauce 99
Raisin sauce, red wine 100
Raspberry sauce 107
Ravigote butter (beurre) 120
Ravigote sauce 96
Ravigote sauce (cold, hot, chaud-
froid) 79
Recipes, auxiliary or sauces 30
Reduction of sauces 15
Red wine raisin sauce 100
Reforme cutlets, sauce for 79
Reforme sauce 79
Regent (Regence), sauce 79
Re : ne Marie sauce 113
Relish sauces (kitchen) (table).. 109
Remoulade sauce .79, 96
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
125
Remoulade sauce a I'lndienne. . . 96
Rhubarb and banana sauce 106
Ricardo sauce 80
Rich brown fish sauce 56
Riche sauce 80
R'chelieu sauce 80
Robert sauce 80
Roman (romaine) sauce 8C
Rouennaise sauce 80
Roux, blanc, blond, fawn, white. 7
Roux, brown (brun), liaison,
stock 8
Royal sauce 80
Royal chasseur sauce 46
Ruisseau, beurre de 119
Ruisseau sauce 9C
Rum sauce 106
Russian (Russe) sauce 81
S Sauce, admiral 34
Sauce aigre douche 34
Sauce, Albany 35, 109
Sauce, Albert 35
Sauce, Albufera 35
Sauce, Allemande 35
Sauce, almond (cream) IOC
Sauce, almond for fruiv salad 100
Sauce American (Americaine) . . . 35
Sauce anchois aux oeufs 36
Sauce anchovy (anchois) 35
Sauce, anchovy egg 36
Sauce, apple 97
Sauce, apricot 101
Sauce, Aurora 36
Sauces, auxiliary recipes for 30
Sauce Avignonese (aise) 36
Sauce ayola 36
Sauce, Balmoral 110
Sauce, banana cream 101
Sauce, banana and rhubarb 106
Sauce batarde, hot 36
Sauce, bavaroise 36
Sauce, bearnaise 36
Sauce, bearnaise, brune, tomatee 38
Sauce, bechamel 11, 13, 38
Sauce, bechamel, maigre, white . 38
Sauce, beef marrow 33
Sauce, beefsteak 39
Sauce, Bercy 39
Sauce au beurre 42
Sauce, beurre cremeuse 43
Sauce, beurre-noir 39
Sauce, bigarade 39
Sauce black, butter 39
Sauce blanche 90
Sauce, blanquette 39
Sauce, blonde chaudfroid 47
Sauce, boar's head 61
Sauce, Bohemian (Bohemienne) . 39
Sauce, bonne femme 39
Sauce, bonnefoy 40
Sauce, bordeaux 40
Sauce, bordelaise 40
Sauce, Bourgugonne 42
Sauce, brandy 101
Sauce, bread 40
Sauce, Breton (Bretonne) 41
Sauces, brown 13-16
Sauce, brown apple 97
Sauce, brown caper 44
Sauce, brown butter 41
Sauce, brown chaudfroid 47
Sauce, brown, vs. Espagnole .... 11
Sauce, brown, fish 42
Sauce, brown herb 48
Sauce, brown mushroom 45
Sauces, brown savory 16
Sauce, brune chaudfroid 47
Sauce, brune, pour poisson 42
Sauce, Bulgard 42
Sauce, Burgundy 42
Sauce, butter 42
,uce, Byron 43
Sauce, Calville 43
Sauce, Cambridge 43
Sauce, Canopere 44
Sauce, caper (capres) brune 44
Sauce, caramel 101
Sauce, cardinal 44
Sauce, celery 44
Sauce, celery cream 45
Sauce, champagne 45
Sauce champignons (blanche)
(brune) 45
Sauces, characteristic of 14
Sauce, chasseur 46
Sauce Chateaubriand 46
Sauce, chaudeau 102
Sauce, chaudfroid (blanche) 47
Sauce, cherry 98, 102
Sauce, chestnut 47
Sauce, chevreuil 48
Sauce, chocolate 102
Sauce, chutney 48
Sauce au citron 63
Sauce, claret 103
Sauce, coffee (custard) 103
Sauce, Colbert, fines herbes 48
Sauces, cold 15-16
Sauce, cold batarde 37
Sauce, cold Bulgarian 41
Sauce, cold Cambridge 4$
Sauces, cold, chaudfroids If
Sauce, cold chocolate 10>
Sauce, cold cucumber 4f
Sauce, cold game 50
Sauce, cold ravigotte 7f
Sauces, cold salad 19
Sauce, cold salmon 81
Sauce, cold strawberry 108
Sauce, cold, Swedish 84
Sauces, cold sweet 16
Sauces, compound 34
Sauce aux concombers, chaude.49, 50
Sauces, condiment (kitchen)
(table 109
Sauce, cornflour 10S
Sauce, crab 59
Sauce, cranberry 59, 93
Sauce, crapaudine 46
Sauce, crayfish 52
Sauce cream (creme) 49
Sauce, creamed butter 43
Sauce, creme tomate 86
Sauce aux crevettes 82
Sauce, Cumberland 50, 95
Sauce, curacoa 104
Sauce, curry (currie) 51
Sauce, custard 103
Sauce, for cutlets, reforme 79
126
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Sauce, damson 98
Sauce, Danish (Danoise) 51
Sauce, demi-glace 51
Sauce, demi-provencale 78
Sauce, deviled (diable) 52
Sauce a la diable 95
Sauce, duchesse 52
Sauce, Dunraven 112
Sauce, Dutch 58, 59
Sauce echalote 52
Sauce, cerevisse 52
Sauce, egg 72
Sauce empress 112
Sauce, epicure (ep curienne) . . 52, 53
Sauce, espagnole 53
Sauce espagnole (vs. brown sc) . . 11
Sauce, essence de gibier 54
Sauce a 1'estragon 54
Sauce, farmhouse 54
Sauce, fawn chaudfroid 47
Sauce fennel (fenouil) 54
Sauce fermiere 54
Sauce fmanciere 54
Sauce, fine herb 65
Sauce, fish 91
Sauce Flemish (Flamande) 54
Sauce fleurette 54
Sauce, foam 104
Sauces, foundation 11
Sauces, fruit 97
Sauce, game 55
Sauce, Garibaldi 55
Sauce, gauffe 56
Sauce, generale 55
Sauce, Genoise 55
Sauce, gibier 55
Sauce, giblet 56
Sauce, glacee verte 88
Sauce, Granville 57
Sauce, good woman 39
Sauce, gooseberry 56, 98
Sauces and gravies, distinction
between 6
Sauce, green chaudfroid 47
Sauce, green Dutch 60
Sauce, green herb 87
Sauce, green mousseline 57, 71
Sauce, Gribiche 57
Sauce aux groseilles vertes 56
Sauce, hachis 58
Sauce, half-glaze 51
Sauce, ham 58
Sauce, hard. 104
Sauce Hessoise 58
Sauce hollandaise (and inex-
pensive) 58-59
Sauce, hollandaise verte 60
Sauce Holstein 60
Sauce, homard 64
Sauce Horly 60
Sauce, horseradish 60
Sauces, hot 15
Sauce, hot batarde 37
Sauce, hot cucumber 50
Sauce, hot (fried chicken) 78
Sauce, hot horseradish 61
Sauces, hot, list of 15
Sauces, hot, plain 15
Sauce, hot ravigote 79
Sauces, hot savory 16
.....j, hot, sweet 15, 16
i,uce, hot strawberry 108
Sauce, hot Swedish 84
Sauces, how to tammy 33
Sauce huitres (aux) 74
Sauce, hure de sanglier 61
Sauce, iced green 88
Sauce, iced horseradish 61
Sauce, Indian curry 62
Sauce, Indienne 62
Sauce, Italian (Italienne) 62
Sauce, Jamaica 104
Sauce, jambon 58
Sauce, Joinville 62
Sauce, jus d' orange 74
Sauce, kari 63
Sauce, Kirsch 105
Sauce, lemon 63
Sauce, liqueur 105
Sauce, livournaise 64
Sauce, lobster 64
Sauce, Lyonnaise 64
Sauce madeira (madere) 64
Sauce, Madras 112
Sauce maintenon 65
Sauce, maitre d' hotel 65
Sauce making, history of 3
Sauce, malaga 65
Sauce, Maltise 65
Sauce, marmalade 105
Sauce, maraschino 105
Sauce, marchand de vin 66
Sauce Marguery 66
Sauce, marinade 66
Sauce mariniere 66
Sauce, Marseillaise 67
Sauce, matelote, blanche, brune . 67
Sauce, Maximilian.
Sauce mayonnaise 68
Sauce, Medicis 69
Sauce, melted butter 69
Sauce, melted butter, sweet 108
Sauce, mint (menthe) 69
Sauce, mirabeau 70
Sauce, miroton 70
Sauce, moelle de boeuf 38
Sauce, Moka pudding 105
Sauce, Mornay 70
Sauce aux moules 72
Sauce moutarde 71
Sauce, mushroom, brown, white. 45
Sauce, mussel 72
Sauce mousseline verte 57
Sauce mustard 71
Sauce, Nantua 72
Sauce, Newcastle 112
Sauce Nicoise 72
Sauce noisette 72
Sauce nonparielle 72
Sauce Normande 72
Sauce Norvegienne 72
Sauce, nut 72
Sauce, nutmeg 105
Sauce aux oeufs (dur) 72
Sauce aux oignons 73
Sauce, onion 73, 113
Sauce, Oporto 99
Sauce, orange 73, 98, 106
Sauce, Orly 60
Sauce, oseille 74
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
127
Sauces, overcooking of 14
Sauce, oyster 74
Sauce au pain 40
Sauce, paprika 75
Sauce, Parisienne 75
Sauce, parsley 65, 75
Sauce, pauvre homme 77
Sauce Pekoe 75
Sauce, pepper 77, 96
Sauce perigueux 75
Sauce persU (persillade) 75
Sauce piment 75
Sauce, pink chaudfroid 47
Sauce, piquante 76
Sauce, piquante tartare 76
Sauces, plain 13, 15
Sauce, poivrade 77
Sauce Polish 77
Sauce Polonaise 77
Sauce pompadour 77
Sauce, poor man's 77
Sauce, Portugaise 77
Sauce, poulette 77
Sauce, prawn 52
Sauce princesse 78
Sauce, Prince de Galles 78
Sauce, Prince of Wales 78
Sauce, provencale 78
Sauce, Queen Mary 113
Sauce Raifort, chaude, f rappee .. 61
Sauce, raisin 99
Sauce, raspberry 107
Sauce, ravigote 96
Sauce, ravigotte chaudfroid 79
Sauce, red wine rasin 100
Sauces, reduction of 15
Sauce, ref onne 79
Sauce, regent (regence) 79
Sauce Reine-Marie 113
Sauces, relish (kitchen) (table) . . 109
Sauce, remoulade 79, 96
Sauce, remoulade, Indienne 96
Sauce, rhubarb and banana 106
Sauce, Ricardo 80
Sauce, rich brown fish 56
Sauce, riche 80
Sauce, Richelieu 80
Sauce, Robert 80
Sauce, Roman (Romaine) 80
Sauce Rouennaise 80
Sauce, Royal 80
Sauce, Royal chasseur 46
Sauce Ruisseau 90
Sauce, rum 106
Sauce, Ruspian (Russe) 81
Sauce, sabayon 107
Sauce, salmi salmy 81
Sauces, salad 16, 92
Sauces, savory 16, 34
Sauce, savory chestnut 48
Sauces, savory, for fish, game,
meat, poultry, vegetables 34
Sauce, Seville 82
Sauce, shallot 52
Sauce sharp 76, 82
Sauce, shrimp 82
Sauces, simple 13
Sauce, sorrel 74
Sauce, soubise 82
Sauce, Soyer 83
Sauce, Spadicini 81
Sauce, Spanish 53
Sauces, stock for 29
Sauces, store 109
Sauce, stragotte 84
Sauce Suedoise, hot 84
Sauce, sultana 99
Sauce, supreme 84
Sauces, sweet 16, 100, 107
Sauce, sweet chaudfroid 107
Sauce, sweet chestnut 48
Sauce, sweet lemon 107
Sauce, sweet melted butter,
mousseline, orange 108
Sauce, tamarind 99
Sauce, tammy, how to 33
Sauce, tartare 85, 96
Sauce, tarragon 54
Sauce tarragon cream (herb) . . .114
Sauce, Texas (Texienne) 85
Sauce, tomato 85, 114
Sauce, tomato chutnee 115
Sauce, tomato cream 86
Sauce, tomato mayonnaise 69
Sauce, tomato soubise 83
Sauce, tortue 86
Sauce trufile 75
Sauce, turtle 86
Sauce, universal (universelle) 115
Sauce, Valancia 109
Sauce, Valentine 86
Sauce, Valoise 86
Sauce, vanilla 109
Sauces, various kinds of 15
Sauce, veloute 13, 86
Sauce, velvet 86
Sauce venison 48, 87
Sauce, Venitienne 87
Sauce, verte mousseline 71
Sauce, vert-pre 87
Sauce, Victoria 89
Sauce, villeroi 88
Sauce, vinaigrette 89
Sauce, vin blanc 88
Sauce, watercress 90
Sauce, Wargrave 8f
Sauce, whip 104
Sauces, white 13, 16
Sauce, white 90
Sauce, white bechamel 38
Sauce, white chaudfroid 47
Sauce, white fish 91
Sauce, white mousseline 70
Sauce, white mushroom 45
Sauce, white, simple 90
Sauce, white wine 88
Sauce, wine 109
Sauce, wine merchant 66
Sauce, Worcestershire 115
Sauce, Xavier 91
Sauce, Yankee 116
Sauce, York (Yorkshire) 91
Sauce, Zingara 92
Sabayon sauce 107
Salad sauce, almond, for fruit. . . 100
Salad sauces 16, 92
Salad sauces, cold 16
Salad dressing (Spanish) 113
Salmon sauce, cold 81
Salmy sauce (salmi) 81
128
THE BOOK OF SAUCES
Salt 19
Salt or pepper, pinch of 23
Savory, 25, 47; jelly 34
Savory chestnut sauce 48
Savory cream 49
Savory sauces 16, 34
Savory sauces, brown, white, hot 16
Savory sauces for fish, game,
meat, poultry, vegetables 34
Seasoning, characteristic of 14
Seasoning and flavoring 17
Seville sauce. . . . . 82
Shallot 27
Shallot sauce 52
Sharp sauce 76, 82
Shrimp butter 120
Shrimp sauce 82
Sicilienne sauce 82
Simple sauces 13
Simple white sauce 90
Sorrel sauce 74
Soubise sauce 82
Soubise tomato sauce 83
Soyer sauce 83
Spadacini, sauce 83
Spanish butter 118
Spanish sauce 53
Spanish salad dressing 113
Spices 20
Spice, aromatic 22
Stock, fish 30
Stock making, hints on 29
Stocks, preparations from 30
Stock roux 8
Stock for sauces 29
Store sauces 109
Stragotte sauce 84
Strawberry sauce, cold, hot 108
Sugar 28
Suedoise sauce, hot 84
Sultana sauce 99
Supreme sauce 84
Swedish sauce, cold, hot 84
Sweet lemon sauce 107
Sweet melted butter sauce 108
Sweet chaudfroid sauce 107
Sweet chestnut sauce 48
Sweet orange sauce 108
Sweet mousseline sauce 108
Sweet sauces 16, 100
Sweet sauce 107
Sweet sauces, cold 16
Sweet sauces (forcroutes, fritters,
fruit timbales) 100
Sweet sauces, hot 15, 16
Sweet sauces for puddings, hot,
sold 100
Syrup punch 106
T Tamarind sauce 99
Tammy sauces, how to 33
Tartare sauce 85, 96
Tartare sauce, piquante 76
Tarragon 24
Tarragon cream and herb sauces. 114
Tarragon sauce 54
Taste, cook's duty regarding. ... 14
Texas (Texienne) sauce 85
Thyme 24
Timbales, fruit, sweet sauces for. 100
Tomatee bearnaise sauce 38
Tomato aspic 36
Tomato butter (beurre) 118
Tomato chutnee sauce 115
Tomato catsup Ill
Tomato cream sauce 86
Tomato mayonnaise 94
Tomato mayonnaise sauce 69
Tomato sauce 85, 114
Tomate, sauce creme a la 86
Tomato sauce, Soubise 83
Tortue sauce 86
Truffle mayonnaise 95
Trufflle sauce 75
Turnips 27
Turtle sauce 86
Universal (universelle) sauce 115
VValancia sauce 109
Valentine sauce 86
Valoise sauce 86
Vanilla 28
Vanilla sauce 109
Vegetables, savory sauces for 34
Veloute sauce 13, 86
Velvet sauce 86
Venison sauce 48, 87
Venitienne sauce 87
Verte glacee sauce 88
Verte sauce, hollandaise 60
Verte sauce, mousseline 57, 71
Vert-pre sauce 87
Viande, glace de 31
Victoria sauce 89
Vinaigrette 97
Vinaigrette sauce
Vin blanc sauce 88
Vinegar 27
Villeroi sauce 88
Volaille, essence de 32
\17Walnut catsup Ill
Y " Wargrave sauce 89
Watercress butter 119
Watercress sauce 90
Whip sauce 104
White chaudfroid sauce 47
White fish sauce 91
White mousseline sauce 70
White mushroom sauce 45
White roux 7
White sauces 13, 16
White sauce (simple) 90
White sauce, bechamel 38
White savory sauces 16
White wine sauce 88
Wine merchant sauce 66
Wine raisin sauce, red 100
Wine sauce 109
Wine sauce, white 88
Worcestershire sauce 115
Xavier sauce. .
91
Yankee sauce ; 116
York (Yorkshire) sauce 91
Zingara sauce. - 92
Popular Handbooks
for Hotel, Restaurant, Transportation
Catering, Institution and Club Use
Ranhofer's Epicurean: The king of cook books is "The
Epicurean," by Charles Ranhofer, of Delmonico's. This
book is 1,200 pages, and weighs about ten pounds. It is
the most extensive, the most complete, the most readable,
the most attractive, and the best all-around cook book
that has ever been published. The first chapter is devoted
to table service, with instruction in menu-making and the
care and service of wines, the decoration of the table, the
fixing of the sideboard, complete dining room instructions
for the service of course dinners. French and Russian
144 pages of menus for breakfasts, luncheons, dinners,
buffet or standing suppers, collations, hunting parties,
garden parties, dancing parties, etc. All dishes in these
menus are numbered to conform with recipes for them in
the body of the book. There is a chapter on elementary
methods, in which even the drudgery work in the kitchen
is explained, and all the work done by apprentices in the
early stages of hotel kitchen work. The chapter on kitchen
utensils is very full, every utensil illustrated. Then come
the recipes: 200 soups, 251 sauces, 133 garnishes, 191 side
dishes, 101 shell fish, 218 fish, 165 beef, 165 veal, 75 mut-
ton, 109 lamb, 48 pork, 224 poultry, 163 game, 198 miscel-
laneous entrees, 267 salads, 172 vegetables, 100 eggs, 37
farinaceous foods, 233 sweet entrees, 170 cakes, 17 breads,
189 ices and iced drinks, 90 confectionery, and several
illustrations of centerpieces. There is an exhaustive chapter
on wines, several recipes for mixed drinks, and 64 pages
devoted to a collection of Delmonico menus. The index
occupies 44 double-column pages. There are more than
800 illustrations. A most excellent feature of The Epi-
curean is that every recipe in it appears under a good
honest English name, alongside of which is the translation
of it into French. It is beautifully bound in Keratol Levant
grain, embossed in gold. Price $7.00
The Edgewater Beach Hotel Salad Book (Shircliffe). Con-
tains more than 600 tested recipes for salads and salad
dressings. Mr. Shircliffe has not only given the recipes,
but in many cases has supplemented them with author's
notes, calling attention to special health-giving features,
and suggesting diets for the different ailments that afflict
humans. He also takes opportunity to preach many a
short sermon on the importance of right eating and what
is best for health from the cradle to old age. He also
intersperses much of human interest in the way of anec-
dote, legend and historic events. In this way it is more
than a cook book it is readable to those who are not so
much interested in how to make salads as in the enjoy-
ment of them. The great charm of the book is the illustra-
tions, which are from direct photographs in the natural
colors, so that the dishes illustrated have the eye-appeal
and the enticing qualities of the real dish. It is a book
that fits into every kitchen home, hotel, club, hospital,
restaurant, lunch room, cafeteria, steamship, dining car,
industrial catering plant, institution, army mess in fact,
wherever information is desired as to the why and how to
prepare for the table. Price $5.00
Salad Portfolio (Shircliffe). A set of beautiful illustra-
tions of salads taken from the Edgewater Beach Salad
Book. They are mounted on heavy green cover stock,
11 x 16 inches, each showing three or four of the salads
and are suitable for framing. The portfolio may be used
by the maitre d'hotel to assist him in selling party menus.
The illustrations are so natural and appetizing that they
make strong appeal to patrons when selecting the salad
course for special menus. Also these pictures serve as a
guide to pantry girls, showing them how the finished salad
should look. Price $2.00
The Edgewater Sandwich Book (Shircliffe). Supplemented
with chapters on hors d'oeuvres, supremes, canapes and
relishes. More than 600 recipes. This book is by the author
of the Edgewater Salad Book, the most important culinary
book produced in recent years. There are thirty illustra-
tions of sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres. It will meet the
requirements of all kinds of refreshment places from the
soda fountain to lunch room, tea room and high-class
restaurant. Bound in convenient pocket size. Price. . .$2.00
The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book (Hirtzler). The author
was chef of Hotel St. Francis, San Francisco. Adapted for
hotels, restaurants, clubs, coffee rooms, families and every
place where high-class, wholesome cuisine is desired. This
is the most important culinary book that has come from
any press in the last twenty-five years. Mr. Hirtzler is
known thruout Europe and America as one of the ablest
chefs of the day. He made the cuisine of the Hotel St.
Francis world-famous. A feature of the Hotel St. Francis
Cook Book that will be appreciated by thousands of hotel
people, caterers, families and all interested in home eco-
nomics, is the selection and preparation of foods in sea-
son ; the presentation of breakfast, luncheon and dinner
menus for every day in the year the selections appro-
priate, and all dishes actually prepared and served in the
Hotel St. Francis. This feature of the book gives a sugges-
tive quality, a reminder attribute, and a knowledge of food
economies and food attributes that is hereby brought to
the aid of the proficient and the learner, also enables even
the inexperienced to produce the well-balanced menu. The
Hotel St. Francis Cook Book is indexed and cross indexed
so that every recipe can be referred to on the instant.
Price $3.00
A Selection of Dishes and The Chef's Reminder (Chas.
Fellows). The book that has met with the largest sale and
is in most demand from managers, stewards and cooks. Is
in vest pocket form, 220 pages. The most complete and
serviceable pocket reference book to culinary matters that
has ever been published. It is not a cook book, in the gen-
eral sense of the word, but is full of ideas and suggestions
regarding bill-of-fare dishes. Chapters are devoted to en-
trees of all kinds, salads, soups, consommes, fish and their
sauces, sauces in general, garnishes, fancy potatoes, miscel-
laneous recipes, hints to cooks and stewards, suggestions
for breakfast, lunch and supper dishes, chafing dish cook-
ery, menus, and a pronouncing glossary of culinary terms.
Hundreds of the dishes listed are given with their bill-of-
fare names only, as the cooks understand the basic work
in preparing dishes, and the sauces and gardnishes are
treated separately, with information as to their component
parts. Thousands of men who possess a copy of this book
say it is their greatest help. Printed on bond paper, bound
in flexible cover. Price $1.00
The Culinary Handbook (Chas. Fellows). Presents in
concise form information regarding the preparation and
service of nearly 4,000 different bill-of-fare dishes; also
gives much information of encyclopedic nature regarding
foods of all kinds. Quick reference to every dish prescribed
is facilitated with an index of 39 columns arranged in
alphabetical order, and cross indexed, so that no matter
what one is looking for, all he has to do is to find the
initial letter and under it, in alphabetical order, for sec-
ond, third and fourth letters, etc., the article wanted, with
page on which it is found. Referring, for instance, to a
sauce of any particular kind. Find the word Sauce in the
index, and under it will be found in alphabetical order 149
different sauces; and under Salads, 71 different kinds,
exclusive of the variations in making. Under head of Sau-
sage there are 45 different kinds described, with directions
for making as well as cooking and serving. In fact, the
sausage information in this book is more complete than in
any other published. 190 pages; 7x10 inches $2.00
Fellows' Menu Maker is the last of the successful ready
reference books compiled by Chas. Fellows, author of "A
Selection of Dishes and The Chef's Reminder" and "The
Culinary Handbook." In this book Mr. Fellows has com-
piled in concise form thousands of suggestions for daily
changes on the bills-of-fare, both American and European
plan, for breakfast, luncheon and dinner cards, and so ar-
ranged as to give popular changes from day to day to give
acceptable variety. These changes include soups, fish,
boildes, entrees, roasts and specials. In their presentation
he starts with typical bills-of-fare, and the changes are
such as might be made in these bills from day to day.
Also he has presented a chapter entitled "Suggestions for
Specials for the Day," in which the dishes are priced and
underlined with brief information regarding their composi-
tion. Also, he submits several sample menus for business
lunches, banquets, and small party dinners, and one very
serviceable feature of the book is a list of the most pop-
ular dishes, as soups, fish, boiled meats, roasts, and
entrees. The book is supplemented with 110 pages of sam-
ple menus and bills-of-fare, several of them photographic
reproductions, and representing the cards of hotels and
restaurants of both first and second class, lunch rooms,
transportation catering menus, club menus, wine list,
caterer's list, and several illustrations of glass, china and
silverwares and banquet scenes. The book is indexed;
printed on fine quality paper; page 7x10 inches, cloth
bound. Price $2.00
Clarenbach's Hotel Accounting. In writing this book it
was Mr. Clarenbach's purpose to outline a simple system
of hotel accounting that would meet the needs of the aver-
age hotels, particularly of hotels from 50 to 200 rooms.
His first book was published in 1908 and the system was
adopted by thousands of hotels. Since then there have been
two revisions to meet new C9nditions of the more modern
hotels. This is the third revision, thoroly up-to-date, and
with illustrations that show the actual account books rul-
ings and facsimile entries; and the text matter is so clear
that one need not be a practical bookkeeper to understand.
The book is in four parts, these covering all departments.
It shows how to get storeroom "per dollar" costs'; how to
handle the cigar business; how to get an accurate state-
ment of the hotel's business from month to month, and a
method of auditing the front office. A "Profit and Loss"
statement is shown. The text matter emphasizes the impor-
tance of being accurate, of a check on every transaction,
and the economy of doing things the right way, thus pre-
venting vexatious mistakes that take valuable time in mak-
ing corrections, and giving the operator the satisfaction
that comes from being master of his business. Hotels now
having workable accounting systems can find in the Clar-
enbach book ideas that may be incorporated by them to
advantage. Also they will find the Clarenbach system
elastic, and its results can be put on a comparable basis
with results obtained fiom other systems of hotel account-
ing. The book is supplemented with a chapter headed "An
outline of the front office methods of the largest hotel in
the world." The book is 9x12 inches and contains 66
pages, printed on ledger paper, attractively bound in cloth
cover. Price $3.00
Front Office Psychology (Heldenbrand). This is the only
book that outlines rules of conduct for the people in the
front office who meet the public, where a pleasing person-
ality and correct habit of deportment, speech, dress, and
all-around cleanliness makes for ideal salesmanship. The
suggestions are classified under different heads as Em-
ployee relations, Your personality, Receiving and rooming
faests, Handling of mail, Information, Checking out,
ront office tactics. The book is written from the prac-
tical viewpoint of a student of human nature, and in this
respect is a classic. It inspires to an improvement in
service and can be read with profit by young and old in
the small or the large hotel, or institution, or business
house. Pocket size, 5x8 inches, 100 pages. Attractively
bound in water-proof cover. (A special price is made to
hotels and chains of hotels buying in quantities of ten or
more.) Price $1.00
The Bell-Boy's Guide (Heldenbrand). This book was
written with the object of training young men of good
habits in the duties customarily performed by bell-boys.
It was prepared by the author to instruct those not fa-
miliar with hotels in the particular bell-boy work required
for his own hotel the Hotel Heldenbrand of Pontiac,
Michigan. With slight variation this book will meet the
needs of the average hotel thruout America. It is pocket
size, 32 pages. (A package of four books for 1.00.)
Price $1.00
Paul Richards' Pastry Book is the title in brief of "Paul
Richards' Book of Breads, Cakes, Pastries, Ices and
Sweetmeats, Especially Adapted for Hotel and Catering
Purposes." The author is known as one of the most skillful
all around bakers, pastry cooks and confectioners in
America, and has demonstrated the quality of his work in
leading hotels. In writing this book he took particular
pains to have the recipes reliable and worded in such sim-
ple fashion that all who read them may readily understand
and work from them. The book is in seven parts. Part I
is devoted to fruit jellies and preserves; jams, jellies,
compotes and syrups ; preserved crushed fruits for sher-
bets and ices; preserving pie fruits ; sugar boiling degrees;
colors. Part II, pastry and pie making, pastes and fillings;
pastry creams, patty cases, tarts and tartlets; icings. Part
III, cake baking. Part IV, puddings and sauces. Part V,
ice creams, ices, punches, etc. Part VI, breads, rolls, buns,
etc. Part VII, candy making and miscellaneous recipes;
bread economies in hotel ; caterers' price list. The recipes
are readily found with the aid of 36 columns of index and
cross index in the back of the book, this index forming in
itself a complete directory, so to speak, of breads, pastry,
ices and sugar foods. Printed on strong white paper; page
7x10 inches, 168 pages, bound in cloth $2.00
Pastry for the Restaurant, by Paul Richards, a vest
pocket book of 158 pages, is. as its title indicates, espe-
cially produced for the use of bakers employed in restau-
rants and European plan hotels. The style of work required
for the American plan hotel with table d'hote meal, and that
for the European plan hotel restaurant, where each article
is sold for a separate price, has brought about a demand
for a book with receipts and methods especially adapted
for the preparation of bakery and pastry goods for indi-
vidual sale. The first chapter is devoted to French pastries,
which are now so generally sold, yet so little understood,
because of the misnomer title; then follows cakes and
tarts of every kind; pies in great variety; puddings, hot
and sold ; ices, ice creams, and many specialties, all set
forth with ingredients, quantities, and methods of mixing
and preparing, and instructions for oven or temperature
control. Mr. Richards' other books have become standard
the world over, and this one will be equally reliable. The
index to this book makes a very complete reference to
popular pastry goods and will be found valuable as a
reminder. The book is printed on bond paper $1.00
The Lunch Room (Paul Richards), is the newest of the
culinary books and bids fair to become one of the most
popular ever produced. In writing this book Mr. Richards
covered all branches of the business. In its pages can be
found lunch room plans; illustrations of equipment; chap-
ters on management, salesmanship and bookkeeping ; sug-
gestions for bills-of-fare ; reproduction of articles from
technical journals relating to lunch rooms, and about 2,000
recipes for lunch room dishes. It is a complete guide to
making and marketing lunch room foods and beverages.
The book is of particular value, not alone to those who
operate lunch rooms, but to hotelkeepers who may con-
sider the advisability of putting in a lunch room in con-
nection with their business ; a departure that has become
very general since so many country hotels are changing to
modified American or to European plan, the lunch room
being the stepping stone to the change. Printed on fine
quality of paper strongly bound $2.00
The Vest Pocket Pastry Book (John E. Meister). This
little book contains 500 recipes, includes 57 for hot pud-
dings (pudding sauces, etc.; 77 for cold puddings, side
dishes, jellies, etc. ; 90 for ice creams, water ices, punches,
etc.; 68 for pastes, patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 77 for cake;
17 for icings, colorings, sugars, etc.; 60 for bread, rolls,
yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc., as well as 55 mis-
cellaneous recipes. Mr. Meister wrote this book at the
request of the editor of The Hotel Monthly, who had heard
his work highly complimented by his employers, who said
they believed him to have no superior as as first-class
workman. The recipes, while given in few words, yet are
easily understandable, and have helped thousands of bakers
to improve their work. Book is indexed ; printed on bond
paper. Price $1.00
The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book (Chas. G. Moore), has
done more to popularize the cooking and serving of vege-
tables in hotels and restaurants than any other book ever
published. It was written with this idea. The author took
particular pains to make this little volume a classic and
his masterpiece, and he succeeded remarkably well. Into
120 pages he has condensed more information regarding
the history, cultivation, nutritive qualities, and approved
forms of cooking and serving vegetables than can be
found in any other book, no matter how large ; and it has
been demonstrated to be a book without mistakes. Recipes
for soups, sauces, garnishings and salads supplement the
general recipes. There are 78 ways of preparing potatoes,
19 of mushrooms, 19 of onions, 15 of cabbage, etc., 27 of
beans, 15 of rice, 25 of tomatoes, and others in number in
proportion to their importance. The vegetables are given
with their English names and the French and German
translations. The book is indexed, printed on bond paper.
Price $1.00
The Book of Sauces, by C. Hermann Senn, is the newest
of The Hotel Monthly Handbook series. Mr. Senn is the
author of the famous Twentieth Century Cookery Book,
The Menu Book, Practical Gastronomy, and ten other
culinary books that have become standard in Europe, and
that have extensive sale in America. His Book of Sauces
is the most complete work of the kind that has ever been
produced. It treats the subject thoroly from every angle
and covers all kinds of sauces for meat, poultry, fish, and
salad dishes; also sweet sauces. This book is adapted not
alone for the hotel and^catering trades, but also for family
use the world over. Epicures will find it invaluable for the
suggestions and practical instructions, together with the
culinary lore therein contained. Book is vest pocket size,
printed on bond paper $1.00
Ideas for Refreshment Rooms. This book is composed
mainly of expositions of catering systems, in particular,
tea room, lunch room, department store, cafeteria, school,
industrial plant, dining car, club, and outside. A valuable
feature of it is the illustrating of different accounting sys-
tems and report forms; also plans of lunch rooms, kitchens
and pantries, showing consistent lay-out. There are more
than a hundred beautiful half tone illustrations picturing
refreshment rooms of many kinds, their decoration, and
furnishment. Complete sets of menus of famous catering
establishments are presented; also a large number of
menus to fit the lunch room, cafeteria, industrial plant,
or school. Thruout the book there is a plea for the bal-
anced ration and right eating, the advocacy of plain foods
simply prepared and appetisingly served, the nutritive value
given careful consideration. There is a chapter on service;
a chapter on the brewing and serving of tea and coffee;
several pages devoted to pantry prepared foods ; illustra-
tions of kitchens, of restaurant checks, and of many inter-
esting things, as electric equipment ; questions of fuel
economy, illumination, and a hundred and one clever ideas
in the marketing of prepared foods in public eating houses.
The book is thoroly indexed and cross indexed to assure
quick finding. 385 pages, cloth bound. Price $2.00
The Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger and Carver. (Frank
Rivers.) The author has cultivated a new field in culinary
literature, and produced a book both novel and useful. His
experience as butcher, carver, chef and steward enabled him
to compile facts regarding meats and meat economics, from
the butcher shop to the dining-room table, that will be in-
6
y c e h a
valuable to managers, stewards, chefs, and all persons em-
ployed in culinary work. His book digests the subjects of
buying, handling, sale, and service of meats, poultry and fish
for hotels, restaurants, clubs and instiutions. It is varied
with suggestions for the use of meats and trimmings for
particular dishes ; the composition of these dishes set forth
in concise form. The information is clarified by the use
of about 300 illustrations. The index is so comprehensive
that any item may be referred to on the instant. 125 pages.
Price $2.00
"The Advertising of Hotels" by Clarence Madden is the
first practical, comprehensive inquiry into hotel advertising
ever made available. It is the only book which treats the
problem of selling rooms and service in its entirety pro-
motion, publicity, "in-the-house", "word-of -mouth", copy,
appropriation, media selection, and agency contact. Mr.
Madden is acquainted with both sides of the advertising
picture. His book brings the two into sharp focus and shows
their proper relationship. . . . Anyone who is in any way
affected by hotel advertising should be sure to have on
hand a copy of "THE ADVERTISING OF HOTELS" for
study, reference, and guidance. 136 pages. Price $2.00
The Fish and Oyster Book, by Leon Kientz, for many
irs chef of Rector's (the noted sea foods restaurant in
icago), is a handy vest pocket volume, the leaf measur-
ing 3x6^ inches. In this book Mr. Kientz tells in concise
manner how to cook practically every kind of fish that is
brought to the American market; and not only explains
the method of cooking, but also the making of the sauces
and the manner of service. Every recipe is given with its
bill-of-fare name in English and its translation into the
French. The recipes include also such dishes as frogs'
legs, all kinds of shell fish, snails, terrapin, and the fish
forcemeats. Also there is an appendix with specimen fish
and oyster house luncheon and dinner menus, with and
without wines. The book is indexed, printed on bond
paper, bound in flexible cover $1.00
Economical Soups and Entrees (Vachon). This book was
written in response to a demand for a book that would
tell how to prepare savory dishes from inexpensive mate-
rials at small cost; and, in particular, how to use up left-
overs ; by which is meant good cooked foods not served
at a previous meal, and which have not in any way lost
their marketable value in the sense of deterioration of
quality, but which can be served in hotel or restaurant in
the same appetizing manner that leftovers are served in
well-to-do families. Mr. Vachon was selected to write this
book because of his reputation as an economical chef. In it
he has given recipes in particular for meat entrees of the
savory order, stews, pies and croquettes, hash, salads and
fried meats. The soups include creams, broths, bouillons,
chowders, purees, pepper-pots and the like. It is two books
in one, separately indexed, printed on bond paper, leaf 3x7
inches, bound in flexible cover. Price $1.00
Eggs in a Thousand Ways, by Adolphe Meyer, gives more
reliable information regarding eggs and their preparation
for the table than can be found in any other book. Is
indexed and cross indexed so that any method of cooking
eggs and any of the garnishings can be referred to on the
instant. The book starts with boiled eggs. Then (following
the departmental index in alphabetical order) are cold
eggs, 79 ways; egg drinks, 22 kinds; eggs in cases, 25
ways; in cocottes, 24 ways; mollet, 79 ways; molded in
timbales, 29 ways; fried, 33 ; fried poached, 38; hard
eggs, 32; miscellaneous recipes, 27; omelets in 210 ways;
poached, 227 ways; scrambled, 123; shirred, 95; stuffed,
hard, 34; surprise omelets, 9; sweet eggs, 16; sweet ome-
lets 38. The recipes are in condensed form. The book is
vest pocket size, 150 pages, printed on bond paper. . .$1.00
The American Waiter (John B. Coins) is the only pub-
lished book that treats intelligently of the waiter's work
from bus boy to head waiter, for both hotel and restaurant
requirements. The author has recently completed Part 2
of this book, the new part devoted largely to European
plan service, and, combined with Part 1, which is devoted
largely to American plan service, has rounded out a man-
ual which is very valuable to those who would give table
service of the kind suited for the average hotel. Inter-
spersed in the book are chapters on the care of table
wares, salad making, table setting carving, dishing up,
banking of sea foods, building of banquet tables, and
many other useful items of information. The book is illus-
trated, vest pocket size, printed on bond paper $1.00
The Van Orman System of Hotel Control. A book illustrat-
ing and describing the many forms used in the hotels of the
Van Orman Chain of hotels. Price $1.00
Requirements of a Good Bed. This is a 36-page booklet
containing chapters on Bedsprings, Mattresses, Pillows,
Sheets, Blankets, Washing Blankets, and a Linen Control
System. It is a collection of exceedingly informative articles,
which first appeared in The Hotel Monthly. They are now
offered in this handy, compact form, neatly bound for ref-
erence purposes. Every hotel manager and every hotel
housekeeper will want to possess a copy of "Requirements
for a Good Bed". Not only is it a good reference work, but
it serves as an educational piece of literature for those
members of the staff who seek advancement and are serious
in the performance of their work. Price 50 cts.
Candy for Dessert (Richards). Price $1.00
Drinks (Jacques Straub). Mrs. Jacques Straub, widow of
the author of this book, has published a new edition, the
foreword in which is by "Oscar" of The Waldorf-Astoria,
commending "Drinks" for its missionary work as a tem-
perance book. It appeals, in particular, to caterers in
foreign countries where American "mixed drinks" are pop-
ular. Price $1.00
Clifford M. Lewis' "American Plan Check System". .$1.00
Prices subject to change, up or down,
according to market conditions
Hotel Monthly Bookshop
JOHN WILLY, Inc.
950 Merchandise Mart, Chicago, 111.
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p
i^j W
g
5 9
s
w
