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Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

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OSTON 
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AOAZINE 




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Vol. V. 



JUNE, JULY. ,^ No. 1 



Individual Economics. 

June Luncheons. 

Some Duties of a Waitress. 

Cleanliness. 

Each Side .of frliS; V/Ai^.j - 

A Home Wedding iN June; 

Pleasure IN EvERxti^iiNG. : -. 

Home-made Totlft Soap 




Kate Sanborn, 

Eleanor M. Lucas, 

Catherine J. Coolidge, 

Kate Gannett Wells, 

'\j Kate M. Post, 

Belle Spaulding, 

ftilia Davis Chandler, 

Caroline D. Jordan. 






Selected Verse, 

Editorial Department: :|^^^H Janet McKenzie Hill. 

Taking Summer Boarder^^ill of Fare at- Farmhouse — 
Menus: Wedding Breakfast, Class -Day Spread, Country 
Luncheons — Recipes (Illustrated) — In Reference to Menus and 
Recipes — Queries and Answers — -News and Notes — Book 
Reviews. 

{For comj>lete index see second and fourth pa£;es.) 

Published Bimonthly by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, 

Publication Office: 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Copyrijrht, 1899, by the Boston Cookiuer-School Magazine, 



B9BBB9HBIBS99e9B9Bi 
Entered at Boaton Poet Office ai Beeond-elaAi matt«r. 



''^^ 




i; 



THOMAS WOOD & CO., 

Importers and roasters. 
216 State Street. Boston. 



IT DRINKS THE BEST1 



The ALADDIN OVEN 

will cook food in a .tcientific maniter at the rost 
of four to five cents a tiny. 




Does not heat the room, lhrow off any odor of cooking, and 
does not require watching. 



SEND FOR A CIRCULAR. 



THE A8BE8T08 PAPER CO., bJstS'n"^«Tss 



DISCERNING People throughout the land who are \A/iSEI 

IIM THEIR GEIMERA-riON 

are today usTiig the 




F^ANO^ 



OBSERVING ones have learned by experience that no other range can pos= 
sibly give such supreme satisfaction for 365 days in the year. 
Our ranges possess every good quality known to 

IVIAKE:IR3 »r.d BAKERS 

A Catalogue with pleasure. 
Tho FRIOMIVIOIMD STOVE OO., IMOIRXAMOIH, Oor-»n. 



H^gn V0U mrriU! Adverti$0rs,pl«as€ mention Thb Boston CooKiifO-8cH6oL Maoazink 



SPINACH-AND-EGG SALAD. 

Chop cooked spinach fine, season with salt, pepper, oil, and 
lemon juice ; press into well-buttered cups or moulds. Have 
ready, also, some cold boiled eggs and mayonnaise. Turn the 
spinach from the moulds on to nests of shredded lettuce. Dis- 
pose, chain fashion, around the base of the spinach, the whites of 
the eggs cut in rings, and press a star of mayonnaise in the centre 
of each ring. Pass the yolks through a sieve and sprinkle over 
the tops of the mounds, and place above this the round ends of 
the whites. 



WEDDING SANDWICH ROLLS. 

Wrap bread as it is taken from the oven closely in a towel 
wrung out of cold water, cover with several thicknesses of dry 
cloth, and set aside about four hours ; then cut away the crust, and 
with a thin, sharp knife cut the loaf or loaves in slices as thin as 
possible and spread with butter, and, if desired, thin shavings of 
meat, potted meat, or chopped^nuts ; roll the slices very closely 
and pile on a serving-dish. 





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•^ 



S 



S 




COMPLETE INDEX VOL. V. 



June-July, 1900 — April- 



PAGB 

After-breakfast Chat 2x7, 263 

Afternoon Tea in England 209 

Batters and Doughs 64 

Bewilderment of Mr. S. Bowen . . . loi 
Bill of Fare at Farm-house ..... 23 

Bread 154 

Bread and Bread-making 201 

Cake and Cake-making 115 

Caution in Little Things 212 

Children, For the 256 

Christmas Giving 171 

Cleanliness 9 

Cooking-school Methods 113 

Cooking for a Field Hospital .... 159 

Cooks, Some Famous 197 

Concerning Menus and Recipes . . 87, 229 

Cottage, A Summer 243 

Dat Valentine 209 

Dietaries and Water 73 

Dining-room Chairs 151 

Domestic Science 142 

Duties of a Waitress 7, no, 165 

Each Side of the Way ii 

Fat, Purification of 143 

Flowers in Winter 205 

Gardening, Kitchen 247 

Hash, Mutton 143 

Home Nursing .... 107, 162, 207, 253 

Home-made Soaps 16 

Home W^edding in June • 12 

Individual Economies i 

June Luncheons 3 

Menus, In Reference to . 35, 136, 184, 275 
Menus, Family of Seventeen .... 228 

Menus for Light Housekeeping . . . 181 
Menus in Lent ....... 227, 273 

Menus, Seasonable . . . .85, 135, 183, 274 

Menus, Special 24, 86 

Menus, Yule Tide 182 

Menus, Thanksgiving 134 

Menus, Vegetarian 84 

News and Notes . 49, 95, 147, 194, 240, 286 

New Year's W'ish 158 

Pleasure in Everything 15 

Sights and Tastes in Tripoli . . . . 251 

Simple Entertainments 63 

Taking Summer Boarders 21 

The Mission of the Rose Geranium . . 59 
The Pinehurst Tea Gardens .... 53 
The Prophet and his Methods .... 56 

The Refrigerator that failed 51 

Verse, Selected . . 17, 69, 119, 167, 213, 259 
Way down on Plantation 114 

Queries and Answers: — 

Alum in Baking-Power, How to detect, 89 

Angel Cake 39 

Apfel Kuchen 234 



May, 1901.* 



Apfel Kuchen, Mannheim .... 234 

Apples, Blushing 277 

Asparagus, Cream of 237 

Banana Fritters 187 

Bananas, Baked 188 

Bananas, Baked and Fried .... 39 

Basil and Bergamot 139 

Batter, Fritter 188 

Batter Pudding 43 

Batter and Timbale Covers .... 278 

Batter for Swedish Timbale Cases . . 278 

Beans, Baked, Tomato Salad . . . 285 

Beans, French 239 

Beef, Roasted or Braised in Gravy . 142 

Beefsteak, Broiled with Onions . . . 145 

Beefsteak en Casserole 45 

Beefsteak, Stuffed with Onions . . . 145 

Beef Soup, English 48 

Biscuit, Oatmeal 239, 277 

Biscuit, Raised Graham 280 

Biscuit, Tough 140 

Blackberries, Pickled 44 

Boston Brown Bread 4i) 93 

Boston Brown Bread, Steaming of . . 41 

Bouillon 40, 45, and 93 

Box Luncheon, Dishes for .... 46 

Bread, Gluten 237 

Bread, Rye 91 

Bread for Sandwiches 90 

Bread, W^ater and Whole-wheat . . 280 

Breakfast Menu, Criticism of . . . 46 

Broiled Live Lobster 40 

Broilers, Small 139 

Broilers, Charcoal 233 

Cake, Chocolate 187, 235 

Cake, Eggs in Angel 187 



192 

279 

40 

140 

235 
192 



Cake from Bread Dough 
Cake, Old-fashioned Election 
Cake, To make Fine-grained 
Cake, Velvet Sponge . . . 
Cakes, German Pan . . . 
Cakes, Lemon Cheese . . . 

Cakes, Margaret Deland 190 

Cakes, Molasses Drop 89 

Cakes, Plunketts 193 

Cakes, Sand 91 

Cakes, Snow 235 

Cakes, Taylor 139, 232 

Cakes, Why Certain fall in Centre . 41 

Canapees and Sandwiches .... 238 

Canapees, Lobster 238 

Caramel Frosting 189 

Caramels, Chocolate and Vanilla . . 189 

Caramels, Vanilla, \\-ith Cherries . . 189 

Caramels, Vanilla, with Glucose . . 189 

Caramels, Vanilla, with Nuts . . . 189 

Carpet, to brighten an Old .... 234 

Catsup, Tomato 93 



A title page will be furnished subscribers on application by letter or postal card. 



Complete Index 



Cereal, Moulded, for Frying .... 144 

Chafing-dish Heated with Gas ... 190 

Champignons a la Algonquin . . .• 236 

Cheese Timbales 190 

Cherries, Dried 44 

Cherry INIousse with Preserved Cherries 47 

Cherry Water Ice 47 

Chestnuts, Compote of French . . . 233 

Chestnuts, Marrons Glaces . . , . 233 

Chicken, Creamed 143 

Chicken Croquettes 143 

Chicken Mousses 283, 284 

Chicken Tie 42 

Chickens, Weight and Age of . . . 239 

Chili Sauce 48 

Chocolate Filling 235 

Chocolate Frappe, Sauce for . . . . 146 

Chocolate Frosting, Boiled .... 235 

Chocolate Sauce for Vanilla Ice-cream, 143 

Chops with Chestnuts 278 

Clam l^roth with Whipped Cream . . 38 

Clam Fritters 4i, 93 

Clam and Oyster Stew, Milk for . . 93 

Cocoanut Cones 47 

Cookies, Soft Sugar 190 

Corn Beef, Creamed 285 

Corned Beef, How to boil .... 92 

Corn, Parched 285 

Coupe Jacques 279 

Cranberry Granite 279 

Cream, Caramel Ice 140 

Cream, Devonshire 146 

Cream, Mocha, with Sugar .... 231 

Cream Sauce, Whipped 144 

Creme de Menthe 141 

Creme de Menthe Ice 45 

Currants, Spiced, Bottled 37 

Currant-Jelly Sauce 39 

Curry Sauce, Color of 39 

Diabetics, Cook Book for .... 237 

Diet, Anti-fat 277 

Doughnuts 193 

Dressing, Boiled 278 

Dressing, French 282 

Duck and Goose, Roasting of . . . 188 

Egg Balls 281 

Eggs, How add to Hot Mixture . . 92 

Eggs, Poached 92 

Eggs, Shirred 231 

Eggs, Stuffed 41 

Eggs, Why crack in Boiling . . . . 191 

Fillets Minion a la Bordelaise ... 191 

Fish, 'Baked 92 

Fish, Frying of 186 

Fluids for Tinting Food 234 

Fondant Candies 284 

Fondant Maple 284 

Food for Public Speaker 46 

Frosting, Boiled 92 

Fruit Punch and Syrups 46 

Fruit Tapioca 39 

Gauffre Irons 46 

Geese, Washing with Soap .... 239 

Gelatine, Quantity in Box .... 284 

Ginger, How to serve Canton . . . 232 

Gingerbread 192 

Gluten Cases, Creamed Oysters in . . 236 



Gluten, Cheese Wafers with . . . 235 

Gluten, Cocoanut Cakes with ... 236 

Gluten, Nut Wafers with 236 

Graham Gems and Muffins .... 231 

Jam, Strawberry 47 

Jelly, Currant . • 140 

Jelly, Green-grape 94 

Jelly, Lemon 192 

Jelly, Tomato 142 

Kisses and Meringues 191 

Lamb, Crown Roast 282 

Laundry, Sal-soda for the 142 

Loaf, Salmon 186 

Luncheon, Engagement, Ideas for . . 193 

Macaroons, Ingredients for .... 232 

Mayonnaise Cream 93 

Meats, Cooking of Various .... 145 

Menu, Children's Party 38 

Menu for Music Club 141 

Menu for " Stag " Dinner .... 141 

Menus, Preserves and Tea in Supper, 237 

Meringue, Chocolate 92 

Moulds, Earthenware 139 

Muffins, Sugar in Entire -wheat . . 139 

Mushrooms cooked under Glass . . 236 

Mushrooms, Preparation and Cooking, 236 

Mushrooms, Stewed 237 

Mutton, Scalloped 142 

Mutton Hash 143 

Newburgh, Lobster 92 

Omelet, French 283 

Omelet, Kornlet 285 

Onion Souffle 144 

Orange Compote 234 

Orange Bavariose 233 

Pan Dowdy 234 

Paprika 142 

Paste, Plain, with Butter 94 

Pears, Sweet Pickled 41 

Pickles, Citron, Sweet 280 

Pickles, Green Sour 192 

Pie, Potato 192 

Pie, Shepherd's 143 

Popovers 43 

Potatoes, Hashed Brown 237 

Preserve, Strawberry Tomato ... 90 

Psychology, Work on 90 

Pudding, Baked Indian 144 

Pudding, Batter 94 

Pudding, Brick Mould for Steamed . 239 

Pudding, Frozen 91 

Pudding, Nesselrode 144 

Pudding, Peach, Steamed 94 

Pudding, Steamed Indian 144 

Pudding, Suet with Figs 90 

Pudding, Yorkshire 232 

Pumpkin Pie, Cracking of . . . . 284 

Pumpkin Preserve 42 

Recipes for Foreign Cookery . . . 282 
Refrigerator, one for Butter and Odor- 
less Food 90 

Rhubarb Preserved 48 

Roll, Sultana 91 

Rolls, Rasped 89 

Salad, Duck 282 

Salad, Fruit 140 

Salad, Potato 93 



Complete Index 



111 



Salt, Use of in Cooking Vegetables . i88 

Samp, Baltimore 279 

Sandwiches, Curried Oysters ... 90 

Sandwiches, Ham and Egg .... 238 

Sauce, Bordelaise 191 

Sauce, Creamy 94 

Sauce, Currant -jelly and Lemon . . 188 

Sauce, Ravigote 190 

Sauce, Sabayon 94 

Sherbet, Strawberry 279 

Shrimp Sauce 40 

Soup, Clear Turtle 283 

Soup, Cream 191 

Soup, Cream of Cauliflower . . . . 191 
Soup, Mock Turtle, Oyster Gumbo, 

and Ox-tail 281 

Spinach Cooking 139 

Spinach, French Method of Cooking, 47 

Sticks, Pecan or Peanut . . . 139, 232 

Strawberries, Lemonade 44 

Strawberries, To preserve Whole . . 47 

Strawberry Sauce 43 

Sucre de la Creme 285 

Sugar, Maple, and Walnut Creams . 284 

Tea, Sunday Night 43 

Test of Heat in Baking 282 

Thermometer, Oven 44 

Toast, Dry 44 

Tripe, Recipes for 89 

Vegetables, Green . . . . , . . 282 

Wax Floor 146 



Recipes, Boston Cooking School: — 



Arros con Tomates . . 

Bouillon 

Cake, Buckwheat . . 
Cake, Devil's Food . . 
Cake, Newport . . . 
Carni con Chili . . . 

Chocolate 

Cookies, Chocolate Fruit 
Crabs, Mock .... 
Cream, Coffee . . . 
Cream, Pekoe .... 
Cream Toast .... 
Cream, Vanilla Ice . . 
Eggs, Lucanian . . . 
Fritters, Coffee . . . 
Frosting, Boiled . . . 
Muffins, Hominy . . . 
Oysters, Fried .... 
Pie, Filling for Lemon . 
Relish, Philadelphia . . 
Sauce, Coffee .... 
Sauce, Coffee Cream 
Sauce, Creole .... 
Soup, Appledore . . . 
Tarts, Coffee Cream 
Tartlets, Apple . . . 



257 
210 
258 
211 
211 

257 
258 
211 

257 
258 

258 

257 
211 
258 
210 
211 
210 
210 
210 
210 
211 
211 
257 
257 
258 
210 



Recipes, Seasonable: — 

Africans, or Othellos 131 

Apple Pur6e, Jellied 177 

Apples, Baked 225 

Apples, Porter 82 

Apple Souffle, Nos. 1,2 . . . . . 133 



Apricot Sauce 128 

Artichokes, Jerusalem 224 

Asparagus a la Indienne 174 

Asparagus, Cream of 265 

Asparagus Soup 26 

Baba with Fruit 128 

Banana Custard 32 

Biscuit with Pistachios 131 

Blackberry Shortcake 78 

Bouchees 225 

Bread, Barley 224 

Bread Panada 223 

Bread Sticks 179 

Brioche 125, 126, 127 

Brook Trout 30, 265 

Buns 128, 129 

Butter, Black . 177 

Cake, Chocolate 269 

Cake, Cream Sponge 270 

Cake, Currant 34 

Cake, Dutch Peach 77 

Cake, Mocha 130 

Cake, Newport 269 

Cake, Pound 131 

Cake, Quick Loaf 270 

Cake, Saratoga Corn 269 

Cake, Scotch 34 

Cake, Sponge and Sunshine . ... 130 

Cake, Thanksgiving 129 

Cakes, Flannel 83 

Cakes, Green Corn 82 

Cakes, Lady -fingers 131 

Cakes, Lemon Queens 131 

Cakes, Madeline's 132 

Cantaloupe, Ice in 80 

Cauliflower, Baked 77 

Celery with Sauce 224 

Charlotte Russe 33 

Chestnut Timbale 176 

Chicken a la Stanley 34 

Chicken, Broiled Alabama Style . . 28 

Chicken, Creamed 173 

Chicken Custard 25, 176 

Chicken Cutlets 26 

Chicken Loaf 28 

Chicken, Shells of 223 

Chicken, Salpicon of 176 

Chicken, Virginia style 77 

Cookies, German Chocolate .... 34 

Cookies, Wine Drop 133 

Cranberry Puffs 133 

Croquettes, Rice and Cheese . . . 125 

Custard, Boiled 270 

Egg Plant au Gratin 78 

Eggs Baked with Cheese 76 

Eggs Cooked in Shirring-cups ... 75 

Eggs, Poached w'ith Croutons of Ham, 76 
Eggs, Scrambled with Tomatoes and 

Green Pepper 76 

Egg and Tomato Salad 30 

Fish a la Creme with Potato Border . 221 

Fish, Fillets of. Ambassador Style . 221 

Fish, Fresh, Boiled 220 

Fish, Salt Cod in Egg Cups .... 221 

Frosting, Maple Sugar 129 

Fruit, Salpicon of 80, 180 

Ginger, Bavariose of 79 



IV 



Complete Index 



33 
1 80 



Ginger, Bombe Glace and Sherbet . 
Gingerbread, New York .... 

Grape Cream 272 

Ham Remnants 267 

Hamburg Cream ;^2 

Ice-cream 81 

Ice-cream, Chocolate 272 

Ice-cream, Peach 81 

Ice-cream, Pistachio 271 

Jelly, Grape . . . , 82 

Jelly, Orange 180, 271 

Jelly, Pineapple 80 

Jelly, Rhubarb 271 

Juice, Grape 82 

Lemonade, . 81 

Lobster, Creole vUyle 173 

Lobster and Plalibut 174 

Lobster, Turban of 26 

Loin of Veal . . . = 29 

Macaroni au. Gratin 219 

Macaroni, Curry of 173 

Macaroni and Cheese 269 

Macaroons, Walnut 34 

Melon, Salad of . . ' 80 

Meringues 132, 133 

Milk Sherbet 33 

Mousse Caramel 81 

Muffins, Blueberry, Corn Meal, and 

Entire-wheat 83 

Mutton 222 

Onions, Stuffed 224 

Orange, Candied 226 

Orange Wafers 34 

Oysters, Devilled 268 

Oysters, Green Corn 82 

Oysters with Cream 173 

Oysters, Poached 219 

Pastry Cream 179 

Pie, Filling for Cranbeny 178 

Pineapple Cream 272 

Pineapple Mousse 271 

Pineapple Jelly 80 

Pineapple with Rice 79 

Potatoes with Fish 266 

Pudding, English 226 

Pudding, Steamed Fruit 178 



Puffs, Blueberry 

Punch, Fruit 

Rarebit, Cheese and Tomato . . . 

Rarebit en Casserole 

Rhubarb with Jelly 

Rolls, Salad 

Salad, Cucumber 

Salad, Lobster 

Salad, Salmon and Green Peas . . . 

Sandwiches, Hot Ham 

Sauce, Chantilly Apple 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 

Sauce, Cranberry and Raisin . , . 
Sauce, Cranberry Pudding . . . . 

Sauce, Hollandaise 

Sauce, Messina 

Sauce, Vanilla 

Sausage with Apple Sauce . . . . 

Shortcake, Blackberry 

Souffle, Fig 

Soup, Creole 

Soup, Cream of Celery 

Soup, Cream of Potato 

Soup, Green Corn 

Spinach Balls 

Steaks, Baked Halibut 

Stock for Soup 

Strawberries, Iced Puree of ... . 
Strawberry Cream in Glasses . . . 

Strawberry Shortcake 

Strawberry Souffle 

Strawberry Tapioca 

Strawberry Trifle 

Stuffing for Fowi 

Sweetbreads a la Newburg . . . . 

Tapioca, Indian 

Toast, Cream 

Tomatoes a la St. Jacques . . . . 
Tomatoes with Macaroni and Cheese, 

Turkey, Fillets of 

Veal Forcemeat Balls 

Veal Rolls a la Jardiniere . . . . 

Vegetables, Curried 

Venison, Saddle of 

Waffles, Rich 

Waffles with Sour Milk 



31 

81 

174 

76 

32 

179 

267 

267 

29 

^3 

177 

222 

124 

133 

266 
178 
272 
175 
78 
270 

25 
175 
175 

75 
268 

265 
219 
32 
31 
34 
32 
31 
32 
124 

^73 

225 

219 

78 

75 

125 

27 

267 

29 

77 

83 

83 



THE 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. V. 



JUNE AND JULY, 1900. 



No. I, 



INDIVIDUAL ECONOMICS. 

By Kate Sanborn. 



This may not be a suitable theme 
for a cooking magazine. Yet, as the 
best methods to nourish and preserve 
our bodies are treated b}' culinary ex- 
perts, my talk is closely akin. 

We are strangely wasteful as regards 
our minds and bodies, and a majority 
commit suicide by overeating, over- 
work, needless rush and worries, and 
the most reckless, criminal carelessness 
about the simplest rules of health. Let 
me illustrate. 

We were sitting down to our usual 
Sunday Boston breakfast. You know 
just what we had (only I always add 
a piece of salt pork cut in tiny squares 
and browned to a delicious golden 
crisp), when the door opened and in 
walked a woman physician, strong, 
original, progressive, cheery, whom I 
always rejoice to see. 

" I thought I would surprise you at 
breakfast," she said. " I've been up 
since four this morning; called to re- 
lieve a man from terrible pain, who is 
simply killing himself, — a self-indul- 
gent glutton. 

" ' What have you been eating ? ' was 
my first question. 

" ' Oh, only green peas and quail. 



some live broiled lobster, radishes, and 
potato salad. And — yes, some ice- 
cream; that may have caused the 
trouble.' 

" ' And you threatened for weeks with 
appendicitis ! ' I exclaimed. 

" I proceeded to relieve him of his 
immediate tortures : but is it not strange 
that so many otherwise sensible per- 
sons cannot restrain their appetites? " 

Then we forgot this unpleasant sim- 
pleton and began to eat twice as much 
as we needed. 

This man must soon leave his fine 
family, his prosperous business, his 
ambitions, hopes, and home delights, 
because he will stuff to dangerous re- 
pletion. And, while we moralize and 
despise, we are doing the same thing, 
in one way or another. We do not 
realize the danger until some settled 
disease forces us, frightened and sur- 
prised, to stop and repent. 

One of the noblest women I ever 
knew died recently because she would 
rather die than diet. Handsome, ac- 
complished, musical, energetic, blessed 
with unusual vigor and enthusiasm ; 
the centre of an admiring circle of 
friends, idolized by her husband, the 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



proud mother of a splendid family ; — 
all this sacrificed for the pleasures of 
the table. 

You know that Dr. Abernethy de- 
clared that "stuff and worry" killed 
most of us. Humboldt said at eighty 
years, *' The whole of life is the utmost 
insanity." And really, when one stops 
to think, he seems about right. 

Our constitutions are marred for us 
long before birth by the excesses or 
overwork of our ancestors. We enter 
life seriously handicapped and then 
proceed to destroy ourselves. Think 
of what is now demanded of child- 
ren and young persons in the way of 
education, besides what they have to 
encounter in the diseases that lie in 
wait for them. As we are here but an 
instant, comparatively, why should it 
be obligatory on each boy and girl to 
learn of all that has been done on 
earth ? In another existence, do you 
imagine it will be of the least import- 
ance that we know how many soldiers 
were slain at a certain battle in Greece ? 

Oh, give the children more lessons 
out of doors, as some wise teachers are 
now doing! Let them enjoy nature 
and store up strength for future needs. 
The press is full of complaints of the 
unreasonable demands upon young 
brains, and many little ones fall by the 
way. This is far from true economy : 
nearer insanity. 

In business and the professions, all 
who rise to high positions are cruelly 
overworked. Men work till they drop. 
Angina pectoris lately seized in its 
fatal clutches a business man who gave 
himself no rest. His physician accom- 
panied him to a famous specialist, who, 
after making a careful examination, 
solemnly shook his head. The doctor 
said: " Mr. will not be moderate: 



he has always done the work of seven 
men in business, and worked harder 
than ever on Sunday ; will race to catch 
a train when one will follow in ten 
minutes." The specialist said: "Sir, 
you are in serious danger. The only 
hope you have is to take everything in 
life slowly and eat only half what you 
are accustomed to." 

Never was a man more amazed, more 
alarmed. He cannot understand the 
situation ; he has wasted his vital forces. 
The lesson is severe. 

Emotional prodigality wears out 
many; social duties, many more. I 
have known three women to be made 
insane by excessive devotion to club 
work ; two teachers that I once worked 
with are in asylums. Herbert Spencer 
speaks with emphasis of the pressure 
of modern life, the increasing strain on 
old and young, children injured by un- 
due study, college girls whose systems 
are damaged for life. 

And now about our sinful neglect of 
our own bodies. From the crown of 
our heads to the soles of our feet are 
we not verily guilty ? 

I saw a little tot of a boy in a bar- 
ber's chair the other day, a big apron 
around him, while the tonsorial artist 
was rapidly clipping off almost all the 
hair on his head. 

This sort of thing kept up for forty 
years, wearing hats that heat the scalp, 
keeping the brain in a state of feverish 
excitement — why is baldness a mys- 
tery? The follicles get discouraged. 

Those who allow their hair to grow 
naturally may look eccentric, but their 
heads don't resemble billiard balls. 

The crimping -irons do equally de- 
structive work for women's heads. 

Too many women look as if they 
needed a Turkish bath, facial massage 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



to clear up the complexion, and a trip 
to the dentist. Tartar on under teeth 
is frequently noticed. Where teeth 
are so precious it ought to be a sacred 
duty to preserve them. 

Most of the annoying throat diseases 
which are apt to extend to the lungs 
are caused by uncleanliness. So says 
one of the most distinguished throat 
specialists of this countr\\ At night 
the back of the throat is often clogged 
by mucus. This, unremoved by disin- 
fecting gargles, produces most of the 
trouble. And so on to the feet, which 



we cramp, and torture, and neglect, 
until they revenge themselves by mak- 
ing our daily walk a Bunion's pilgrim's 
progress. 

Longevity clubs are now fashionable, 
and starvation is the present fad. Both 
good. 

Almost every disease is brought on 
from our breaking the laws of health. 
God does not send our sicknesses. It 
is blasphemous to say so. We do 
wrong; we kill ourselves. We do not 
respect the simplest rules of individual 
economics. 



JUNE LUNCHEONS, 

By Eleanor ^L Lucas. 



In June a luncheon with clover 
blossoms for decoration is quite ap- 
propriate and in harmony with the 
season. 

We will arrange our clover luncheon 
to carry out a pink-and-green color 
scheme upon a shining background, 
and we will select, first of all, a round 
table of mahogany and use it without 
a cloth ; for, if we wish to be correct 
in the fashion of the day, we must fold 
away our linen covers, and serve our 
luncheon on a table aglow like a 
" schoolboy's morning face." 

Having polished our table until a 
rich, full gloss is obtained, we place in 
the centre a form, shaped like a four-leaf 
clover, and thickly studded with pink 
clover heads ; the whole is effectively 
outlined with a fringe of green. The 
form is cut from heavy cardboard and 
thickly padded with damp moss, into 
which the clover blooms are thrust. 

The individual doilies, the pieces for 



water carafes, bonbon trays, etc., are 
made of interlaced strips of Japanese 
linen in pale green. The strips are 
first doubled, the raw edges turned in 
and sewed invisibly. The strips are 
then woven perpendicularly and hori- 
zontally to form small squares, or ob- 
longs, and each intersection is decorated 
with a small many-rayed star, done with 
silver thread. The ends of the linen 
strips, projecting an inch on all sides, 
are ravelled to make a fringe. These 
are simply made, are very effective, 
cool-looking, and dainty. 

At either side of the centrepiece 
we place small plates wreathed with 
clover blooms, holding small clover- 
leaf-shaped cakes masked with green 
icing. 

The bonbons are fresh raspberries 
dipped in fondant and tinted pink. 
The pretty pink balls are placed on 
leaf-shaped plates of green glass flecked 
with silver. At each place is a small. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



dainty wreath of pink clover blossoms, 
relieved with sprays of greenery, which 
may be used as a floral bracelet, — a 
pretty, graceful fashion surrounded by 
the charm of novelty. The name cards, 
of pale green, are in the shape of a 
clover leaf, prettily outlined with silver 
ink ; the name is put on one lobe; on 
another lobe one reads a pretty quo- 
tation or proverb like the following : — 
" Live in clover." 
*' Chance may win." 
"Welcome as a four-leaf clover." 
" Better be born lucky than rich." 
" A pound of pluck is worth a ton 
of luck." 

Having arranged the table, let us 
give thought to the menu. The fol- 
lowing contains dishes and dainties 
specifically devised for hot weather : — 

Strawberries, Parisian Style. 
Grilled Sardines on Toast, Ravigotte 
Butter. Cucumbers. 
Roasted Reedbirds, Cress Garnish. 
Corn Creams, Tomato Sauce. 
Olives in Aspic. 
Salad of Nuts, Pink Mayonnaise, in Green- 
Pepper Cases. 
Beaten Biscuit, Clover-Scented Butter. 
Mint Parfait. Clover Cakes. 
Raspberry Conserves. Currant Julep. 

Hull the strawberries ; to each quart 
add the juice of two lemons, a table- 
spoonful of orange water, and, if the 
palate dictates it, a tablespoonful of 
brandy. Set on ice for half an hour, 
add two tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar, mix lightly, and serve in dainty 
green glass shells. 

The sardines are drained from oil 
on blotting-paper, and broiled on an 
oyster broiler. Have ready some lemon 
juice, mixed with very fine-chopped 
parsley; as each sardine is done, dip 
it in this, and place on a hot platter, 
overlaid with narrow strips of toast ; 



garnish with parsley, tiny balls of ravi- 
gotte butter, and rounds of lemon. 

The butter is prepared by throwing 
a handful, each, of parsley, chervil, and 
cress into boiling water ; let boil five 
minutes, drain, chop very fine, and 
pound to a smooth paste. When very 
cold mix with each tablespoonful half a 
tablespoonful of butter, adding a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice and a dash of 
nutmeg. Chill, form into tiny balls, and 
chill again. Cut the yellow rind from 
a lemon, slice it very thin, lay a little 
green ball on each slice, and dispose 
around the dish. 

Patty-pans, in clover-leaf shapes, can 
be obtained at any tinsmith's, and the 
same set of pans will answer for the 
corn creams, the cakes, and for mould- 
ing the aspics. The cakes are baked 
first, the pans are washed and used for 
the aspics, which are turned out before 
the pans are required for the corn. 

Grate the corn from the ears ; to each 
cup mix in the unbeaten whites of 
three eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
a teaspoonful of white pepper, and half 
a cup of thick sweet cream, whipped 
slightly. Dust the buttered pan very 
thickly with chopped parsley, fill with 
the corn mixture, place in a baking- 
pan of hot water, and cook in the 
oven twenty-five minutes. Have ready 
a large round platter, arrange a pretty 
nest of parsley in the centre; in this 
place the bowl containing the pink 
sauce, and lay the corn about the edge 
of the dish with a few parsley points. 

The salad course is especially pretty. 
Render some delicately flavored aspic 
partly liquid, and color it green. Cover 
the bottom of each clover-leaf patty- 
pan ; when partly firm put in a layer of 
olives, stoned and cut in halves, and 
just cover with aspic. Set on ice to 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



5 



chill and harden. Unmould, and place 
on a dish overlaid with a lace- paper 
mat. 

The salad is composed of equal parts 
of tender lettuce and blanched almonds 
cut in strips. Color the mayonnaise 
with tomatoes that have been stewed 
until thick, strained and cooled. Cut 
a slice from the stem end of green bell 
peppers, remove the seeds, and let lie 
in ice water one hour ; drain and wipe 
dry. Mix the nuts and shredded let- 
tuce with part of the mayonnaise, fill 
into the peppers, heap some of the 
pink mayonnaise on each, and serve 
on individual plates overlaid with pink- 
edged lace-paper mats. 

The parfait is made in the usual 
way; a half-cup of chopped green mint 
leaves is added to the hot syrup just 
before removing it from the fire. Strain 
through a coarse sieve and proceed in 
the usual way ; color green. Have 
ready some small paper boxes, clover- 
leaf shaped. These are easily made. 
Cut a pattern of a large clover leaf, 
about three inches long. From this 
cut as many forms as desired from stiff 
cardboard. Sew a little strip of stiff 
paper, an inch wide, around the rim, 
and fill with the parfait. Set the cases 
in a tin pail, with waxed paper between 
each layer of cases. Cover the pail, 
bind the seam with a strip of cotton 
cloth dipped in hot suet, pack in equal 
parts of ice and salt, and let remain 
four hours. When about to serve, cut 
away the cardboard, and slip on to a 
pretty plate ; garnish with a garland of 
clover blossoms. 

Currant Julep. 

Mash a pint of currants, add a pint 
of water, and rub through a sieve, then 
strain through cheese-cloth. Set on 
ice to chill. Take some tall, thin 



glasses, put crushed ice in the bottom 
of each, and three cubes of sugar ; 
line with tender mint stalks just tall 
enough to come well above the brim, 
all around the edges. Place three 
ripe raspberries, crushed slightly, on 
top of the sugar, then fill the glasses, 
to within an inch of the top, with the 
iced currant water. Serve with straws 
tied with narrow ribbons of green and 
pink. 

A Cherry Luncheon. 

This is a most appropriate function 
on a June day. The table is draped 
with snowy linen and in the centre 
stands a low, round basket filled with 
moss, banked slightly toward the cen- 
tre. In this arrange tiers of perfect 
red cherries, placing them with the 
stem end down and close together. 
Border the ruddy mound with fragrant 
white roses, clustering in their own 
green foliage. The table service should 
be white and the doilies, also, have 
no hint of color, save perhaps delicate 
traceries in green. Tiny green enam- 
elled wicker baskets, with rims of 
frosted silver, are filled with cherries 
and crowned with a spray of white rose- 
buds and green leaves. With one of 
these dainty little baskets beside each 
plate and the name card, the effect 
will be, like the season, " prodigal of 
harmony." 

The cards are white, large, and 
square ; the purity of their background 
is intensified by the sketch of clusters 
of cherries, rich and glowing, and their 
glossy green leaves. The quotations 
are to be chosen for the month. Selec- 
tions may be made like the follow- 
ing : — 

" June her floral treasures flings. 
While above a robin sings." 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



"Come and leave your cares behind you, 
Pleads the blithesome spirit, June." 

At this luncheon, the cherries are 
served in all ways tempting and deli- 
cious; the following is an excellent 
summer feast : — 

Cherry Soup. Wafers. Toasted Almonds. 

Lobster Cream. Rose Radishes. 

Broiled Lamb Cutlets, Cherry Sauce. 

Green Peas. 

Cherry Salad ix Lettuce Leaves, 

Cream Mayonnaise, 

Frozen Cherries. Sponge Drops. 

Candied Cherries. Cherry Cup. 

Broiled Cutlets. 
Chops or cutlets are more delicate, 
if broiled in paper cases. They should 
be wrapped singly in brown paper, the 
edges turned over and pinched close 
to the meat. Broil over hot coals. 
The paper will char a long time before 
igniting, and the meat will be basted 
in its own juices. The time required 
for broiling chops in cases is about 
ten minutes. Remove the paper, dust 
with salt and pepper, and serve very 
hot. 

Cherry Sauce 
for lamb is made by covering a pint of 
cherries with a pint of w^ater ; add two 
pounded cloves ; when the cherries are 
soft rub through a sieve, return to the 
fire, add a tablespoonful of flour blended 
in a tablespoonful of butter, a quarter 
of a teaspoonful of salt, and cook 
five minutes. Stir in the juice of a 
lemon and two tablespoonfuls of claret. 
Serve hot. 

Cherry Salad. 
Wash, remove stalks and stones from 
a pint of large cherries. Be careful to 
bruise the fruit as little as possible. 
Place in each cherry a hazel-nut ker- 
nel ; this preserves their form. Chill, 
arrange in little heart leaves of lettuce, 



and pour over a cream mayonnaise 
tinted a delicate green. 

Frozefi Cherries. 

Boil one quart of water and two cups 
of sugar ten minutes ; dip out two 
tablespoonfuls and set aside. Add to 
the remainder a tablespoonful of gela- 
tine that has been soaked in two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water ten minutes, and 
strain into the can of the freezer. When 
cold add one cup of lemon juice and 
a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, 
cover, and turn the crank slowly, until 
it becomes difficult to turn longer. 
Beat the white of an ^gg to a stiff 
foam, add the reserved syrup, made hot, 
and beat until stiff and creamy. Pour 
into the freezer, and turn the crank 
until well mixed. Remove the dasher, 
scrape the frozen mixture from the 
sides of the can, and beat with a spoon 
till smooth. Hollow out the centre by 
piling the ice against the sides of the 
can. Fill this hollow with a pint of 
cherries, washed and stoned. Add to 
them a tablespoonful of powdered sugar 
and half a cup of almonds blanched 
and chopped fine. Cover with the 
frozen mixture; pack the freezer, and 
let stand three hours. When about to 
serve, turn out and serve in slices. 
Cherry Cup. 

Put in a bowl one pint of cherries, 
stoned and bruised, the juice of three 
lemons, the grated rind of one lemon, 
and one cup of granulated sugar. 
Cover, and let stand one hour or 
longer. Add one quart of water, strain 
through a vegetable press, then through 
cheese-cloth. Add a pint of claret, and 
set on ice. Serve in punch glasses 
with handles ; to each put a spoonful 
of shaved ice, a few fine cherries cut 
small, and a sprig of green borage. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



SOME DUTIES OF A WAITRESS 

By Catherine J. Coolidge, Drexel Institute. 

PART IV. 
The Weekly Cleaning, and Care of Lamps. 



If the floor is painted, varnished, or 
oiled, crude petroleum may be used 
instead of water; it serves a double 
purpose, as it cleanses and polishes the 
floor at the same time. Apply the 
petroleum (in very small quantity) with 
a soft cloth, rub briskly, and follow 
always the grain of the wood. Allow it 
to dry one or two hours, then polish by 
rubbing vigorously with clean woollen 
cloths. Unless the floor is thoroughly 
polished, dust will cling to it, and it 
will look worse than it did before 
cleaning. Crude petroleum is more 
effective than refined petroleum. The 
disagreeable odor accompanying its 
use soon passes off, if the windows are 
left open during the drying. 

For painted and shellaced floors, 
warm water, used as described, proves 
very satisfactory, and is easier to use 
than petroleum. 

Waxed surfaces should never be 
treated with oil. 

Waxed floors are the most difficult 
to care for. The wax for polishing 
may be bought already prepared, or 
may be mixed at home. It is more con- 
venient for most housekeepers to use 
the ready-made article. Liquid polish 
is more easily applied, and does not 
require so much rubbing to give a high 
polish ; but the surface is made more 
slippery than when the harder form is 
used. Put the wax where it will grow 
warm and soft. Wipe all . the dust 
from the floor with a cloth which has 
been dipped in warm water, and wrung 



as dry as possible. Go over the floor 
carefully, and remove any spots with tur- 
pentine. Moisten a flannel cloth with 
the softened wax, which should be of 
one consistency, and apply it quickly 
to a portion of the floor. Go over all 
the surface in this way, then leave it 
an hour or more if there is time. Rub 
with a weighted brush, first across the 
grain, then with the grain, and, when 
the whole floor is polished, cover the 
brush with a clean woollen cloth or car- 
pet, and go over the surface again 
until it has reached the desired polish. 

If sticky fly-paper is overturned on 
the floor or furniture, the spot may be 
removed by applying benzine. Keep 
the bottle of benzine well corked, and 
do not use it near a stove or light. 
Air the room well after using benzine. 
If this is not at hand, and the floor is 
painted or varnished, smear the spot 
with lard, then remove it with warm 
soapsuds. The former method is pref- 
erable, but the latter is suggested as 
an alternative. 

After the rooms are swept and dusted, 
and the floors are wiped or polished, 
remove the finger marks from the doors 
and polish the brasses. 

To clean finger marks from paint, 
wipe the spots first with a cloth dipped 
in warm water, then with a cloth dipped 
in whiting; finally, wipe again with a 
clean damp cloth. This method is 
especially applicable to cleansing white 
paint. 

Cut pieces of pasteboard to fit closely 



8 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



around handles of drawers and door 
knobs, so that the brass may be pol- 
ished without soiling or injuring the 
surrounding woodwork. 

Putz pomade is excellent for polish- 
ing solid brasses, but is too vigorous 
for veneers. For the latter use elec- 
tro-silicon. 

Apply putz with a piece of flannel ; 
allow it to stand until all the pieces 
have been treated, then, beginning 
with the first, polish with dry flannel, 
and finally with chamois skin. Or, 
brasses may be polished with electro- 
silicon, moistened with lemon juice 
and water. Apply the paste, and follow 
the same directions as for the use of 
putz pomade. For cleaning marbles, 
use a paste of whiting and water, or 
rub vigorously with dry salt. 

Whiting, moistened to the consist- 
ency of whitewash, is excellent for 
cleaning windows. Rub it over the 
entire surface, and, when perfectly dry, 
remove the powder with a soft cloth, 
and polish until clear. Spread a paper 
under the window to catch any whiting 
that may fall. 

For washing mirrors, picture glasses, 
clock glasses, etc., use alcohol and 
warm water in the proportion of one 
teaspoonful of alcohol to one quart of 
water. Apply with a soft cloth, and 
dry one surface before moistening an- 
other. Soapsuds should not be used, 
as it leaves the glass streaked unless 
very thoroughly rinsed. 

Occasionally (once or twice a year) 
the furniture should be polished. A 
polish bought at a furniture shop, or 
one of home manufacture, may be used. 
A home-made polish which proves it- 
self satisfactory is made by combining 
equal parts of turpentine, olive oil, and 
vinegar. Apply with a soft cloth, and 



rub with flannel until every trace of 
oil is removed. If not well polished, 
each finger touch will show. 

Of course it is not necessary for the 
waitress to clean the minor parts of 
the room each week ; that would be 
impossible. One week she can do the 
brasses; the next, the mirrors and win- 
dows; the next, the paint, and so on. 
Occasionally it may be necessary to 
break in on this rotation, but not often. 

When the cleaning is complete relay 
the rugs, replace the furniture, orna- 
ments, etc. 

Care of Lamps. 

The lamps should be filled every 
day, and the chimneys, shades, and 
burners cleaned whenever their condi- 
tion demands it. 

The lamps should be filled nearly to 
the top of the reservoir, just space 
enough being allowed to allow foi pos- 
sible expansion of the oil. If too large 
a space is left, air may enter, mix with 
gas collected there, and cause an ex- 
plosion. The wick should be soft and 
rather loosely woven, and musty?// the 
burner, but not crowd it. If loosely 
fitted, it will admit air to the reservoir. 

The chimneys, if smoked, should be 
wiped with soft paper, and then washed 
in ammonia and water, or alcohol and 
water — not in soap and water, because 
soap is likely to make them cloudy. 
They should be thoroughly dried, or 
they will break when heated. New 
chimneys are made more durable by 
the following treatment : Place them 
in a kettle of cold water, and add one 
tablespoonful of salt to each gallon of 
water. The water should completely 
cover the glass. Bring the water slowly 
to the boiling-point, then remove the 
kettle, and let the chimneys cool in the 
water. It is wise to buy several chim- 



THE BOSTOX COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



neys at a time, and thus have a stock 
against accidents. 

The wick should be cut only at the 
corners ; then open the burner, turn 
the wick down almost level with the 
brass, and wipe it with a piece of old 
cloth. Turn the wick a little higher, 
and wipe it again. Repeat the process 
until all the charred portion has been 
removed, then wipe all parts of the 
burner, and put the cloth in the tire. 
Oily cloths should never be left about 
the house. They may be safely kept 
in a tightly covered tin pail. 

If lamps give out a bad odor when 
lighted, it is necessary to cleanse the 
wick and burner in a more energetic 
way. Oftentimes it is best to replace 
the wick with a new one. If there is 
enough of the old wick left to make it 
worth while, place it with the burner in 
strong soda water, and boil them until 
the oil and dust are removed. Rinse 
them in hot water, and place the wick 
where it will dry. Rub the darkened 
portions of the burner with sand soap. 
and rinse it again in hot water. The 



clearness of the light repays one en- 
tirely for this added labor. 

It is important also that the perfora- 
tions around the burner should be kept 
clear, or the necessary supply of air 
will be cut off. and imperfect combus- 
tion result. 

A brass or nickel-plated lamp may 
be polished with electro -silicon. If 
the surface is rough it is necessary to 
use a brush. 

It may be well to say a word about 
'' putting out '■' a lighted lamp. Xever 
blow a lamp out when it is in full blaze, 
but turn it low, and then use the ex- 
tinguisher, or blow across, not down, 
the chimney. There is a little story 
which runs as follows: — 

'• Mary had a little lamp, 

'Twas filled with kerosene, 
She blew straight down the chimney, 
And — vanished from the scene '. ! " 

The danger in blowing down on the 
flame lies in the possibility of driving 
it back into gas which may have col- 
lected in the reservoir, thus causing an 
explosion. 



CLEANLINESS. 



By Kate Gannett Wells. 



GeorCxE Herbert must have suf- 
fered from periodical attacks of house- 
cleaning on the part of his housekeeper, 
or he never would have written that she 

" Who sweeps a room as for Thy laws 
Makes that and the action fine." 

Yet, probably, his study was not such 
a storeroom of current literature and 
literary bric-a-brac as is the modern 
library, so that he was not puzzled to 



know where to find things after they 
had been •' set right."' Then his very 
thoroughness as a scholar, which is 
shown by the fact that Bacon submit- 
ted his essays to the poet before they 
were published, led him also to approve 
of conscientiousness in household mat- 
ters. So he apostrophized the maid of 
the broom, who sweetened her labors 
with the consolations of religion ; and 



lO 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



we, inheritors of domestic drudgery, 
are now finding that Herbert, all un- 
consciously, was a bacteriologist as well 
as, consciously, a poetaster of religious 
conceits. 

Wise annunciator of eternal truth 
was Herbert, for the getting of religion, 
or loving some one much, is the best 
recipe for transforming hard work into 
angelic errands. The mother will ster- 
ilize her baby's milk, and the wife will 
prepare an appetizing meal for her hus- 
band more gladly, when a knowledge of 
hygiene and affection are compounded 
together within her brain, than when 
her work is done on a purely technical 
basis. 

The modern woman is trying to es- 
tablish an equitable condition of house- 
hold affairs by lectures on sociology 
and the domestic problem, but such 
means do not begin to accomplish the 
results that are wrought by justice and 
sympathy. There would be fewer fam- 
ily edicts about "privileges," and less 
quick resentment, if both mistress and 
maid were looking out for each other's 
interests. The girl's natural right to 
the use of her own bicycle, even if held 
on the instalment plan, should not be 
infringed on by the " lady housekeeper," 
as it is an interference with proprietary 
rights. Some "ladies" forbid the use 
of the telephone by their "girls," 
though they are permitted to speak 
through it for the benefit of their em- 
ployers, — _2i very Tantalus method of 
education. Learn, but don't appro- 
priate ! 

And, then, housekeepers, employers, 
or ladies — three social terms for about 
the same position — complain because 
the housework or cooking is indiffer- 
ently done, when the cook's bread 
would be far lighter, if she mixed it, 



exhilarated by her previous bicycle 
ride, or by the prospect of seeing her 
young man, who has just telephoned 
her that he'd call that evening. 

Merely as a matter of expense, how- 
ever, the getting of religion is cheaper 
than scientific training, and herein 
George Herbert proved himself an 
economist as well as scientist. If the 
maids do their work well because they 
have learned how, scientifically, then 
they are going to demand salaries in- 
stead of wages. Already the kinder- 
gartner nurse receives more per week 
than the teacher of an ungraded school 
in the country. To be sure, if a mother 
is willing to forego the privilege of 
taking care of her babies, it is as well 
she pay a high price, and remembers 
not to mourn the lack of family affec- 
tion, when those same babies have 
grown up. 

But most people have only average 
incomes, and cannot pay for special 
trained experts in the home; yet they 
can create them by compelling thor- 
oughness through ways of gentleness 
and sympathy, and by their own attain- 
ments in knowing how to do things. 
Only housekeepers must do all this in 
the same way in which the poet admon- 
ishes the maid to do her sweeping. Then 
will the "girl" sweep stairs or room, and 
leave no dirt in the corners, because 
she wishes, at least, to please her em- 
ployer ; for it is love that makes house- 
keeping move easily, as we beat eggs 
with the same sweep of motion that 
carries the planets on their courses. 

After all, ideals do help, in so far as 
we try to live up to them ; though, for 
years to come, dust in corners, and 
under bureaus, may be a sure sign of 
indifference to high aims on the part 
of both mistress and maid. " Be clean 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



II 



in the interests of health ; wipe up, not 
feather-dust off, the lurking germs," says 
the hygienist. And for self's sake the 
girl obeys, until in her haste she for- 
gets. Did not Pasteur, in his excite- 
ment, drink the very water in which 
he had washed his cherries, in a dem- 



onstration lesson before his class? If 
he can forget so may the maid ! 

" Be clean ! " sings the poet, because 
it is God's law that our bodies should 
be fit shrines for the indwelling of His- 
Holy Spirit, and our homes fit temples 
for his worship. 



EACH SIDE OF THE WAY. 

By Kate M. Post. 

{IVriiten /or ike Boston Cooking-School Magazine.) 



There's a fine old house one side of the way, 
Where the oak trees, sturdy and tall, 

Throw their shadows dark, defying the sun 
To enter its stately hall. 

There's an old gray house just over the way, 
Nestled down amongst flowers bright ; 

O'er its door the eglantine's strong young arms 
Reach upward to catch the light. 

A solemn footman may open betimes 
The door of the gloomy old hall, 

But the old Dutch door, just over the way. 
Stands open for one and all. 

And the carpet is old, and faded, too, 

In that hall that's over the way, 
For the sunbeams come and they linger there. 

As fondly courting delay. 

And they've lingered so long their warmth is 
felt 
In the household, and everywhere; 



And the heart-sore and weary, grave and gay, 
All come and are welcomed there. 

But those who are welcomed the other side 
.Are the wearers of garments fine. 

Who can boast that straight from the Norman 
kings 
They trace their family line. 

But the angels who wander down the way 
Have seldom these passports to show. 

So they and the sunshine are wont, forsooth. 
To enter that Dutch door low. 

Oh I the stately house that's over the way 
Has its statues and pictures rare, 

But never a welcome for God's own sun. 
Nor his angels unaware. 

But the angels' blessing forever rests 
On the home with the low Dutch door. 

And the spirit of comfort lingers there 
Like the sunshine on the floor. 




12 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



A HOME WEDDING IN JUNE. 

By Belle Spaulding. 



'* No, I absolutely refuse to have a 
church wedding! Kate had her way, 
with pomp, publicity, and presents to 
her heart's content. I do not like it, 
and am not willing to go through all 
the fatigue of something I do not 
approve of, just for the sake of being 
in the fashion." 

So spake the bride-elect, the queen 
of the hour. " What will people think ?" 
pleaded the conventional mamma. "It 
will seem that we are very partial when 
they see you so simply dressed and 
married in such a quiet way at home ; 
and they will recall Kate's brilliant 
wedding and reception." 

" Well, mamma," responded the de- 
termined little maiden, " Kate was 
allowed to have her wish, and now let 
me have mine." That ended the dis- 
cussion, and she was permitted to dis- 
close her ideas to a group of listeners, 
that they might set about their accom- 
plishment. 

" Firstly, as to flowers," said the 
expectant bride, flushing with enthu- 
siasm, as she found she had gained 
her point. " Ralph and I have talked 
a great deal about our future, and we 
are determined that we will live our own 
lives and not be bound by convention- 
alities. Oh ! I don't mean we are 
going to retire from the world and live 
selfishly (though, I confess, I think I 
would like to go away with Raph to 
some " desert isle " and live a year, at 
least); but we wish to live simple, 
earnest lives and not waste our forces 
striving to do just as somebody else 
does. We wish so to order our lives that 



we may not be merely the reflection of 
others ; and, first of all, we shall insist 
upon simplicity in all our appointments. 
No, things need not be inartistic to be 
simple. The highest art attains true 
simplicity. There is an affectation of 
it ; that is sheer vulgarity. So to begin 
with the wedding decorations. I am 
so glad we are to be married in June. 
I do so love the wild flowers. And 
now, let me tell you, girls, not one hot- 
house blossom for me ! — but laurel. 
Oh, my beloved mountain laurel ! make 
me a bower of it in the bow-window. 
Not too much of it, you know, but the 
stately spreading branches, with their 
clusters of dainty, wax-like blossoms, 
can be arranged about the windows ; 
and those large pottery jars can be 
filled with more of the branches and 
placed on either side. It will make a 
bewitching background, and be such a 
pretty compliment to Ralph, for laurel 
means fame, you know, and his book 
will be out by that time. I know he 
will like the laurel. And then, daisies, 
daisies, daisies for me ! Daisies mean 
constancy, you know. I want some 
daisy bells in my bower. It is easy 
enough to make them. Just make the 
forms with wire and soft moss, and 
stick them full of daisies. To be sure, 
each poor little blossom must be 
stabbed with a little stick (a toothpick 
is the best thing), for the stems are 
not strong enough to go into the moss ; 
but I am sure they will be willing to 
serve me for my wedding bells, even 
at such a price, for I love them so. 
And all the gardens will be full of 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



13 



roses; and roses we will have in abun- 
dance, for they mean love." 

" Aren't you almost ready to say 
something of the table, Alice ? " sighed 
the patient mother. "The girls can do 
your bidding about the decorations, 
but I shall have to engineer the sim- 
plicity of the feast, I suppose. I must 
confess I think it far less trouble to 
give carte blanche to a florist and 
caterer." 

"Oh, I am coming to that now, 
mamma dear ! " said Alice, clapping 
her hands gleefully, for the joy that 
was in her, at having her own ideas, 
hitherto somewhat ignored, listened to 
with a show of respect. Then a 
shadow passed over her face, and she 
faltered, " What a bother that there 
must always be something to eat ! " 

At this the mother threw up her 
hands in despair. " What a child you 
are ! Where you got such ideas I 
cannot imagine. Your Uncle and Aunt 
Foster are coming from the city, and 
they will wish to stay and talk, after 
you are gone, and — " 

" Oh, yes, mamma, I know it is in- 
evitable ; we must eat : but flowers 
and such dainty things are so much 
nicer to talk about ! Let us use the 
plain linen tablecloth, with the drawn 
work above the hem, and the centre- 
piece embroidered with lilies, — the 
lilies mean purity, — and I would pre- 
fer your plain white china, and the 
glass pieces ; I do not care very much 
for silver pieces for the table. In the 
centre, we will have a large jar of 
the choicest laurel blossoms we can 
find, and at each corner a glass bowl 
of gorgeous roses, and a wreath of 
daisies, or, as we girls used to call 
them, daisy chains, running from each 
corner to the chandelier, and, de- 



pending therefrom, one of the daisy 
bells." 

" How lovely ! " exclaimed the girls. 

" Now, mamma, I am ready to talk 
of the cakes and things ; and, as I said, 
I must have a jar of laurel in the centre 
of the table, and each side of it, length- 
wise of the table, we will have those 
lovely old fruitstands of grandmamma 
piled with strawberries. They shall 
be laid on a bed of their own leaves, 
with some of the trailing vines falling 
over the edge of the dishes. Each 
side of the centre, the other way of the 
table, but nearer the edge, we will have 
the bride's and groom's cakes. I will 
have a wreath of white roses around 
mine, and the glossy laurel leaves 
around Ralph's. 

"In the centre, at one end of the 
table, we will have a dish of Benares 
salad. Don't you remember the Feb- 
ruary-March issue of the Cooking- 
School Magazine contained the rec- 
ipe, and it is delicious ? If we cannot 
get good celery for it, some nice white 
cabbage, with celery salt, makes a per- 
fect substitute. We will serve it in the 
cabbage shell ; just leave the outside 
leaves on the stalk, and set it on the 
platter; put the salad into it, and sur- 
round the whole with the feathery leaves 
of carrots. At the opposite end centre 
we will have a mould of boned chicken, 
served on a bed of parsley. I have a 
new way to make boned chicken. Cut 
a tender chicken as if for stewing, put 
it into a glass jar, add one clove, cover 
tightly, put it into another dish of boil- 
ing water, and boil six hours, then take 
from the can, or jar, shake the meat 
from the bones, remove the skin, and 
any objectionable bits, add a teaspoon 
of salt, a teaspoon of onion juice, and 
a squeeze of lemon ; press the chicken 



14 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



— not too hard — into a mould, and 
pour the juice over it ; set away to 
harden. It is very delicate, and cuts 
into nice slices with a thin sharp 
knife. 

" On each side of these chicken and 
salad dishes — not in line, but a little 
farther from the edge of the table — 
we will have plates of rolls and sand- 
wiches, — one plate of small oyster 
rolls, and a plate of lettuce sandwiches. 
Cut the bread a quarter of an inch 
thick, butter it slightly, then lay the 
pieces together, and cut them into 
oblong diamond shapes. Then open, 
and lay on the lower piece a layer of 
delicate leaves from the centre of the 
lettuce, allowing the curling edges to 
extend just beyond the bread, dress 
the lettuce with some stiff mayonnaise 
dressing, strew a little shredded lettuce 
over this, then place the other piece of 
bread above, and press gently together. 
When they are all made, arrange them 
in four even piles, on a bed of the let- 
tuce ; opposite these, at the other end, 
set a plate of the rolls, which may be 
laid on a linen doily, and a plate of fruit 
sandwiches. Cut the bread a little 
thinner for these, spread very delicately 
with butter, fit the slices together, and 
cut in heart shapes, then open, and 
sprinkle chopped nuts over one slice, 
and grated cheese over the other. 
Serve these in nice even piles, on a 
bed of nasturtium leaves. Cover all 
the sandwiches, as soon as made, 
with a napkin that has been wrung 
out in cold water, and let them stand 
until ready to serve ; it will keep them 
fresh. The ices and creams we will 
have in rose and lily shapes. Won't 
they be charming t When the chicken 
and salad dishes are removed the ice- 
cream platters can replace them, filled 
with roses in all colors, except white ; 



one platter may be filled with white 
lilies, made from the white ices. 

*' Plates of cake can have place 
either side of the strawberries, not on 
line with them, but nearer the centre. 
At the other sides arrange plates of 
fancy cakes, hearts and rounds and 
macaroons and nut sticks. Little 
dishes of salted nuts and candies can 
find place on either side of the large 
cakes, and nearly in line with them, 
and a dish of olives just beyond the 
salad and chicken platters, nearer the 
centre. Jane can serve the pineapple 
frappe in that corner by the door, and 
Maud can put the round tea-table for 
the iced tea in the alcove, and don't 
forget to put on a big bowl of ice and 
the shaker, for a tea shake is the most 
refreshing drink for a warm day. And, 

girls ! I do want some daisy chains 
turned about the stair rails in the front 
hall. I almost forgot them, — if it 
won't be too much trouble." 

The girls all assured her that to 
entwine the staircase with daisy chains 
would be the crowning joy of their 
present existence. 

" And remember," continued Alice, 
" I want everybody to be as gay as pos- 
sible. A wedding that is entered into 
in the right spirit is solemn enough 
anyway." 

As she paused to take breath one of 
the girls laughingly exclaimed : " Why, 
Alice, you talk like an old housekeeper. 

1 thought you knew nothing about such 
things ; I believe you must have lain 
awake nights to plan all this." 

" Why, of course I have," replied 
Alice quickly; "plans do not work 
themselves out ; and, if we do not all 
wish to do just what somebody else 
does, and desire to have some ideas of 
our own, we must think. It is thought^ 
really^ that makes the world go round." 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



15 



PLEASURE IN EVERYTHING. 

By Julia Davis Chandler. 



How much pleasure one can get 
from the simplest every- day things; 
for instance, from a bountifully filled 
market basket! It suggests not only 
good meals to come, but is a source of 
real aesthetic enjoyment. How varied 
the shapes, how gorgeous the colors, 
in purple egg-plant and crimson cab- 
bage, pale-green cabbage, too, and let- 
tuce, and dark-green cucumbers, scarlet 
tomatoes, and rosy radishes, yellow 
squashes and wax beans, and orange 
carrots, aromatic and feathery little 
bunches, for soup flavoring, of herbs 
and parsley, with a gay chili tied in, 
which make a corsage bouquet for the 
creamy-bosomed cauliflower. And in 
peaches, pears, grapes, oranges and lem- 
ons, — what could be more beautiful 1 
Why, even eggs are beautiful, — the 
deep, rich coffee-colored ones, or the 
white, reminding one of Titian's won- 
derful painting of a basket, by the steps 
of the temple. No wonder that artists 
love to paint all these, as well as flow- 
ers or the plumage of birds. 

How often, too, they introduce a 
copper kettle, to which they are wel- 
come, for who cares to use copper 
kettles now, except the chef who can 
control enough service to keep them 
polished ? 'Tis said, on shipboard, the 
inspecting officer demands such perfect 
work that a cambric handkerchief can 
be applied and show no suspicion of 
stain. 

Not only is the marketing a pleasure, 
but it is to be faithfully served each 
day, and your tastes remembered and 
provided for, whether it be at the stalls 
of a big market -house or the wagon 
that comes to your door. 



In a Western city there was a pleas- 
ant little man who would climb, to show 
all his stock, in and out of his big two- 
horse van, and up on the wheels to the 
frieze-like row of baskets hung along 
the sides, above the rolled-up curtains. 
The name on his wagon was G. Hop- 
per, and we used to speak of him as 
our grasshopper. 

In a Philadelphia market there is a 
big man, with but one eye; and, not 
knowing his name, we say : " Aren't 
these fine berries ? We bought them 
of Polyphemus." 

Then there is another, with a most 
intelligent horse, who drives from house 
to house daily. His horse knows the 
word "apple" aawell as a person does, 
even casually used in a sentence, and 
goes through pretty tricks to get one. 

There is a nice collie dog, who knows 
this wagon, and the man's voice, and 
that his mistress always buys of him, 
and that, when she does, he, the collie, 
can go for a walk down to the rear 
street; so he barks loudly as soon as 
he recognizes the familiar call, though 
all day men with wagons or push-carts 
go by there, calling the same vegeta- 
bles. For these he never seems to lift 
an ear. 

Into another part of the city there, 
comes a little cart, drawn by a donkey, 
like an English "coster," and guarded 
by a tiny dog, which sometimes perches 
on the donkey's back. This wagon 
contains only peanuts, but it is eagerly 
awaited by children on certain even- 
ings ; it is considered much more fun 
to buy peanuts, and run, perhaps, a 
square or so for them, than to have 
some sent up by the grocer. 



i6 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



HOME-MADE TOILET SOAPS. 

By Caroline D. Jordan. 



It is almost impossible to make a 
perfect chemical combination of fat 
and potash or soda when dealing with 
small quantities. The harshness and 
irritating qualities of household soaps 
are due to this fact. There is usually 
a considerable portion of unaltered 
fat, and a corresponding amount of 
unneutralized caustic soda. This may 
be remedied by the addition of cocoa- 
nut oil, which promotes the soap-mak- 
ing action, or "saponification,'' and 
furnishes a finer product. A propor- 
tion of from one-fifth to one-third is 
recommended. After being poured into 
pans or moulds the soap should remain 
covered with towels, in a warm room, 
for twenty-four hours, thus facilitating 
the completeness of the chemical com- 
bination. 

Genuine toilet soaps are, or at least 
ought to be, prepared from a superior 
quality of fat or oil. They are usually 
made on a large scale by the " cooked 
process," which may be imitated on a 
small scale, as follows : Boil together, 
in a large vessel, one pound caustic 
soda (commonly called " potash ") with 
twenty times its weight of water and 
five times its weight of clean fat (beef 
or lamb fat being an excellent form for 
the purpose), for some hours, until a 
thick mass is formed which will draw 
out into threads. By adding about one- 
half cup of common salt the soap sepa- 
rates, rising to the top. Let it remain 
until cold, when the soap is easily re- 
moved. It is still further improved and 
purified by remelting with a little water, 
an attractive white soap resulting. 

Perfuming may be accomplished at 



the melting-stage by the addition of a 
few drops of essential oil. Oil or mir- 
bane (artificial almond oil) is the 
cheapest; but the perfumes of real 
almond oil, citronella, cloves, or lav- 
ender are more agreeable. 

If color is desired, a very little potas- 
sium bichromate dissolved in the lye will 
give a green color. Brown may be ob- 
tained by dissolving a little burnt sugar, 
and adding it to the fat before mixing. 

Blank soaps are used as the basis 
of many toilet preparations, and may 
be purchased from soap manufacturers 
at a small cost. This can be remelted 
and scented. In expensive toilet soaps 
perfumes are added to the blank soap, 
which is shaved or powdered, then 
mixed and pressed while cold by ma- 
chinery. 

Castile soap was originally made 
from the poorer qualities of olive oil 
with caustic soda. 

Considerable quantities of oil of 
sesame are used in conjunction with 
olive oil in making this soap. Mix- 
tures of lard with sweet almond oil or 
cottonseed or peanut oils are commonly 
used in the production of the mod- 
ern '' castile " soaps. A good castile 
soap is made with four pounds of sweet 
almond oil, mixed with two pounds 
of caustic-soda lye, and stirred until 
of the consistence of thick paste. It 
should then be poured into moulds, 
covered with towels, and kept in a 
warm room for twenty-four hours. 

It is best to use oil slightly rancid, 
or, if perfectly sweet, add to it about 
ten per cent, of oil that has become 
rancid. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



17 



SELECTED VERSE* 



OUT IN THE FIELDS. 

The little cares that fretted me — 

I lost them yesterday, 
Among the fields, above the sea. 

Among the winds at play, 
Among the lowing of the herds, 

The rustling of the trees, 
Among the singing of the birds. 

The humming of the bees. 

The foolish fears of what might pass — 

I cast them all away 
Among the clover-scented grass. 

Among the new-mown hay, 
Among the hushing of the corn. 

Where drowsy poppies nod, 
Where ill thoughts die and good are born — 

Out in the fields with God ! 

—St. PatcVs. 



TWILIGHT. 



Rhododendrons are in blossom. 

The azaleas are in bloom. 
And all the air is fragrant 

With the scented breath of June. 

The birds soft sleepy twitter. 
Even hop-toads on the ground 

Make you happy in the twilight 

When the night comes softly down. 

Then the shadows, creeping, creeping, 

Bring you to a fairer land. 
And the lights through treetops shining 

Show the mystic elfin band. 

Shadow leaves are gloaming fairies. 
Silent, resting on the ground. 

And you're happy in the twilight. 
When the night comes softly down. 

— Margaret Hepburn Pottorff. 



Beneath the pine's protecting shade, 

Along the borders of the stream, 
Sun-brightened in the open glade, 

I see the mountain laurel gleam, 
Each dainty cup a chalice lent 

To hold the fairies' draught of dew, 
The green of ocean in it blent 

With roseate dawn's elusive hue. 

— Lalia Mitchell. 



MY FATHER S FIELD. 

A MAIDEN Stood where the fields were ripe. 
And gathered the golden wheat; 

Gaily she sang as she bound her sheaves, 
And laid them about her feet. 

One marked her there as she passed her by. 
Alone with her hard-earned spoil. 

And spoke of rest, for the sun was high, 
And the reaper spent with toil. 

But the maiden smiled, as her glad voice said 

" Nay, lady, I may not yield. 
The work is great, but the work is sweet, 

I toil in my Father's field." 

* * * * 

Gleaners of Christ, in your lonely toil, 

When weary, and fain to yield, 
Take comfort here, though the work is great, 

" Ye toil in your Father's field." 

And the Father's house lies over the hill. 
Where the sun of life goes down ; 

There shall ye rest, and the Father's smile 
Forever your work shall crown. 

— E. G. Stuart. 



O CHILDHOOD, life's perpetual June ! 
Your path with buds and fragrance strewn, 
Down which your feet beat happy tune ! 

Your chubby hands are full of flowers ; 
Your eyes, of sunshine and of showers, — 
Darlings of nature's heart and ours 1 

With you we toss the fragrant hay, 
Or pluck wild roses from the spray ; 
Your cheeks more rosy fair than ihey. 

Such charm has nature round you flung, 
Yot(. know '* the song the sirens sung," 
That keeps our hearts forever young, — 

That lures us to forget our years, 
Forget our burdens and our fears. 
O, blessed is the ear that hears ! 

The innocence that is so wnse ; 

The trust that dreams of no disguise ; 

The simple faith in mysteries, — 

All these shall in the world survive, 
While God to us doth children give. 
To keep the child in us alive. 

— Saimiel Longfelloiv. 



i8 



THE BOSTOy COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



ITbe Boston Coo[?ing=Scbool 
Corporatiotu 

Established 1879. Incorporated 1882. 

School: 372 Boylston Street. 



BOAlRjy OF MANAGERS, 1900. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL - - - President. 
Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vice-President. 



mx:ecutive committee. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL, 

Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER. 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL, 
Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY, 

Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS, 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING, 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN, 
Miss MINNA TRAIN, 

Mrs. EVERETT MORSS. 
Mrs. G. E. NILES, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MERRITT FARMER. 
Miss CHARLOTTE JAMES WILLS. 



Assistants, 



Miss MARIA W. HOWARD. 



TTbe Boston CooMn^^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL CORPORATION. 

Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

JANET Mckenzie hill - - - Editor. 



BENJ. M. HILL, 
R. B. HILL, 



General Manager. 
Business Manager. 



Subscription 50 cts. per year. Single Copies 

10 cts. 

Advertising rates furnished on application. 

To Subscribers. 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on wrapper is the date of 
expiration of your subscription. Please renew 
by means of the blank form enclosed. 

When sending notice to renew subscription or 
change address, please give the old address as 
well as the tiew. 

We use in our subscription list the card 
index sj'stem, by which absolute accuracy is se- 
cured ; but in referring to an original entry we 
must know the name as it was formerly given, 
together with the Postoffice, County, State, Post- 
office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Postoffice as second-class 

matter. 



"\1 /"ITH this issue the Boston Cook- 
' ^ ixG-ScHOOL Magazine begins its 
fifth volume. In the conduct of the 
Magazine in the past undoubtedly mis- 
takes have occurred, for these are un- 
avoidable; and yet a general though 
gradual improvement, we trust, has 
been made bo,th in the quality and in 
the character of the publication. Cer- 
tainly our own gain in point of exper- 
ience, as well as in that of encourage- 
ment, has not been inconsiderable. 

The present is our maximum edition. 
Still, we propose not to remain sta- 
tionary, even if this were possible, but 
to move forward, ever increasing our 
efforts to produce an up-to-date and 
progressive journal for housekeepers. 

Each number of the Magazine con- 
tains valuable information — matter not 
to be found elsewhere — that is worthy 
of preservation. For this reason, from 
this issue — viz., that of June and July, 
1900 — means have been provided to 
furnish all who may desire with com- 
plete volumes. That is, in the future, 
any new subscriber will be able to be- 
gin her subscription with the first num- 
ber of a new volume, or the magazine 
year. To a limited extent, also, from 
this date, we, hope to be able to mail 
back numbers to all inquirers. 

Manifestly the interest in matters 
pertaining to domestic economics is 
increasing rapidly. As it is said, '' the 
world is already filled with workers ; 
there is no place for untried hands." 
Is not the present a most favorable 
time to become a subscriber to the 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine ? 



pvR. GEORGE F. SHRADY, editor 
*-^ of the Medical Record, declares 
over-pressure the bane of modern edu- 
cation. He writes : — 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



The health of the young is a matter of 
vital importance to a nation. As with indi- 
viduals, so it is with races in the struggle for 
predominance : the weakest will go to the 
wall. The sole aim of modern education 
would seem to consist in the attempt to de- 
velop the mind at the expense of the body. 
The necessity of exercise and fresh air, as a 
part of a child's training, is strangely over- 
looked. Mental and physical education should 
go hand-in-hand. Healthy environment, plen- 
tiful and nutritious food, are essential, that the 
human product may grow up hardy and robust, 
well equipped for the battle of life. 

We often feel that man or woman 
is unqualified to teach who has not 
come in direct contact with child na- 
ture as a parent. Yet nine out of ten 
of our teachers are unsophisticated 
young women, who enter upon the 
difficult task of teaching as a means to 
an end. Of late, in the training of 
teachers, some effort is made to give 
meagre instruction in the nature of 
child life ; but the result is deplorable 
still. We have the fads and frills of a 
wholesome educational system, without 
the substance. For instance, nothing 
can be more desirable than to cultivate 
in childhood a correct form of speech, 
and facility in expression ; but what 
sense in requiring a child of ten or 
twelve years to write a composition on 
virtue or heroism, subjects about which 
he has, and can have, no tangible ideas ? 
If a boy have a pet dog, we venture to 
say he can tell something about that 
animal. 

We are of the opinion that acquaint- 
ance, knowledge, thought, must precede 
language, either oral or written. First 
make the child thoroughly acquainted 
with his object, and this knowledge 
expression naturally follows. And this 
is true from the kindergarten to the 
college. Who is prepared to take sci- 
entific data from an amateur, or receive 



instruction in theology from a stripling? 
There are subjects in respect to which 
thoughts, to be of verity or value, must 
be the result of deep study and re- 
search, as well as of large experience. 

When Socrates was in prison, he 
was asked why he, who had never 
before written a line of poetry, was 
putting ^sop into verse, and compos- 
ing a hymn in honor of Apollo. The 
sage replied that it was to satisfy a 
scruple, and in obedience to a dream, 
by which he often had intimation that 
he should " make music." So he says : 
" I • first made a hymn in honor of 
the god of the festival, and then, con- 
sidering that a poet, if he really was 
to be a poet, or maker, should not 
only put words together, but make 
stories, and, as I had no invention, I 
took some fables of ^sop, which I 
had ready at hand, and knew, and 
turned them into verse." So the child, 
especially he who has little invention, 
instead of nagging himself, and those 
about him, in the vain attempt to do 
the impossible, should be taught to take 
the objects that are ready at hand, and 
about which he knoivs, and in connec- 
tion with these turn his simple expres- 
sions. 

Certainly, " to insure the physical 
and mental well - being of the rising 
generation considerable modifications 
of our existing system of education 
will be necessary." 



" New occasions teach new duties ; 
Time makes ancient good uncouth.*' 

T^IME was when it was thought more 
^ desirable to speak well than to do 
well. To become a minister or a 
lawyer — that is, to influence by fine 
words — was the goal set before every 
ambitious pupil. The result was many 



20 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



a youth entered upon a life work for 
which he was entirely unfitted. To be 
sure, the power of expression is a 
noble gift ; but few are thus endowed, 
fewer still have noteworthy ideas to 
express. 

Once young women were taught, as 
the one thing needful, music, drawing, 
or letters, though it was manifest a 
majority of women could not earn a 
living or become very useful by the 
cultivation of a fine art, however agree- 
able as an accomplishment that might 
be. 

To-day we are beginning to realize 
that thought goes before expression, 
and something interesting and tangible 
to think about precedes both, while 
mere speculative philosophy never ap- 
peals to the masses. Hence the power 
and skill attained by actual doing, or 
experience, mark the educational meth- 
ods of the day. 

In training youth the processes are 
scientific ; practicability is the test 
of value. Even the idea of beauty is 
associated with utility. Thus, either 
the conditions of life have changed, or 
the events of the age are insipid, and 
fail to call forth inspired expression ; 
for where are our great poets ? What 
fine poetry of recent production can be 
pointed out.'^ 

Of scientific achievement and useful 
invention the age is prolific; and yet it 
would seem that hitherto sufficient at- 
tention has not been given to domestic 
science. The subject is far-reaching ; 
it concerns the immediate and vital in- 
terests of social life. At present date, 
chiefiy in the West and South, courses 
in domestic science have been intro- 
duced into many or leading institu- 
tions. Now sanitation, the chemistry 
of foods, physiology, and hygiene are 



practical subjects, some knowledge of 
which is essential to well-being in life ; 
and still the supply of trained helpers 
in the home is not equal by far to 
the demand. Why should not a course 
in domestic economics be made a part, 
at least, of every young woman's edu- 
cation ? 



I tell you, a woman'ull make your 
porridge every day for twenty years, 
and never think of measuring the pro- 
portion between the meal and the milk 

— a little more or less, she'll think, 
doesn't signify ; the porridge will be 
awk'ard now and then ; if it's wrong, 
it's summat in the meal, or it's summat 
in the milk, or it's summat in the water. 

— George Eliot. 



The best men, and those most be- 
loved by the gods, are those who in 
agriculture perform their agricultural 
duties well ; those who in medicine 
perform their medical duties well; those 
who in political offices perform their 
public duties well : but he who does 
nothing well is neither useful for any 
purpose, nor acceptable to the gods. — 
Socrates. 



Choose Sin, by troops she shall beside thee 

stand ; 
Smooth is the track, her mansion is at hand : 
Where Virtue dwells the gods have placed be- 
fore 
The dropping sweat that springs from every 

pore; 
And ere the foot can reach her high abode, 
Long, rugged, steep th' ascent, and rough the 

road ; 
The ridge once gain'd, the path so hard of late 
Runs easy on, and level to the gate. — Elton. 

A sentiment to which Epicharmus 
gives his testimony in this verse : — 
"The gods for labor sell us all good things." 



After= Breakfast Chat, 



By Janet M. Hill. 

I know very well I shouldn't like her to cook my victual. I called in one day when she 
was dishin' up dinner, and I could see the potatoes was as watery as watery. I like my potatoes 
mealy; I don't see as anybody 'ull go to heaven the sooner for not digestin' their dinner, pro- 
vidin' they don't die sooner. — George Eliot. 

It is very pleasant to eat, and have nothing to pay. — Spatiish Proverb. 



Notwithstanding all that may be 
thought and said of the inadequacy of 
houses and lands, food and raiment, to 
give satisfaction and contentment in 
this world; in spite of the old refrain, 

" Man wants but little here below, 
Nor wants that little long," 

every human being in health is con- 
stantly on the alert to find the ways 
and means to maintain existence in 
accordance with a real or fancied posi- 
tion in life. No matter how large the 
income may be, — for as one rises in 
the social scale his wants increase in 
like ratio, — there is always something 
that is most earnestly desired, for the 
attainment of which no easy way seems 
provided. 

Indeed, when a family's income has 
become a fixed quantity, and no wind- 
falls are expected, there seems but two 
possible ways of future attainment, 
viz., to go without something else, and 
thus provide for the seemingly most 
urgent good, or else devise some means 
by which a substantial addition may 
be made to the annual income. The 
joy of possession lies at the root of 
whatever has been accomplished in 
every field of effort, — possession for 
our own good, or more often for the 
good of those near us, . Possession is 
the actuating motive that keeps this 
work-a-day world constantly in motion. 



In seeking means of gain, apart from 
that of ever sacrificing a lesser good, 
many a woman, living on a farm in 
the country, might admit to her home 
those whose coming, if rightly man- 
aged, would provide the wherewithal 
to carry out long-cherished plans. To 
those contemplating this course there 
are many things to consider, — things 
that go far towards making such an 
undertaking a financial and otherwise 
gratifying success. 

First of all, what of the "stock in 
trade " ? The mere fact that a family 
on a farm, in the country, is desirous 
of taking boarders does not furnish 
conclusive evidence that they can do 
so successfully. There needs be some 
special fitness in the surroundings, and 
in the individuals themselves. 

The profit from the undertaking is 
largely vested in the ability to cater to 
a comparatively large circle. One or 
two boarders, at five dollars each per 
week, would give no return for the extra 
outlay necessary in service, materials, 
etc. Numbers here are requisite for 
success ; and yet one needs begin on a 
small scale, and, as success is assured, 
add to her equipment. 

Certain things cannot be expected 
in the real country, but a fire (on the 
hearth) on chilly evenings and cold, 
rainy days, will occasion a sense of 



22 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



comfort and cheer that will send guests 
back to your fireside year after year. 
Good beds, screens at doors and win- 
dows, fresh table linen, and, above all 
else, palatable, well-cooked food, are 
prime essentials. 

Three substantial meals must be 
provided daily; and it will require skil- 
ful management and indefatigable ap- 
plication to furnish palatable food and 
service, such as is required, and leave 
a margin of profit when the number of 
guests does not exceed twelve and the 
price of board per week is but five 
dollars. The products of the kitchen 
garden, the hennery, the dairy, and an 
improvised icehouse must be available. 

On account of the cost of service, 
numbers of people w^ho live in the city 
scarcely know the taste of other than 
canned vegetables; and spinach, beets, 
peas, corn, squash, and tomatoes, red- 
olent with the fresh flavor of the moist 
earth and the early dew^, will be most 
gladly w^elcomed. These, with fresh 
eggs and wild berries, with cream or 
milk, furnish a larder not to be de 
spised. 

But supplying the larder is at best 
only half a solution of the problem. 
In most cases the raw materials must 
be cooked. The woman who has an 
innate taste for cooking need never 
despair of keeping her table well filled 
with guests. This is a hungry world, 
and the knowledge of the place where 
an edible meal may be had travels in 
the air, as it were. Give a tramp a 
cup of hot coffee and a plate of palat- 
able food, on occasion, and by some 
invisible telegraphy, known only to 
the initiated, every tramp in the coun- 
try knows just the hour at which your 
morning cup is brewed ; and, while 



every other house in the neighborhood 
is immune, as far as such calls are con- 
cerned, yours will be repeatedly visited 
by the hungry knights of the road. 
Travelling salesmen, to a man, "cut" 
certain hostelries ; while other quiet, 
unobtrusive houses are never without 
their full quota of guests for a Sunday, 
— men who have *' made " this place, 
though it be out of their line of travel, 
because some one has intimated that 
here was a home-like house and palat- 
able food. It is not expensive mate- 
rials, rare and imported dainties, that 
are sought, but common, inexpensive 
food products, so cooked and served 
that they can be relished. 

It will pay, financially, for the solici- 
tor of favors in this business to learn 
the effects of heat and water upon va- 
rious food products; when to use each 
generously, and when to refrain from 
such use ; it will pay to be able to de- 
termine the proper moment to remove 
an article from contact with the cook- 
ing media, and to acquire the art of 
delicate seasoning and flavoring. 

How to serve food in a country farm- 
house with a family and few guests is 
a vexed question to be settled accord- 
ing to varying conditions. Where the 
guests do not exceed a dozen, and the 
time of serving meals is limited to one 
hour, probably the use of small tables 
will meet with most favor. This plan 
admits of seating the guests in families 
or in congenial groups. The home 
table should be presided over by the 
mother or daughter, w^ho from thence 
dispenses the tea and coffee for all, 
and carves when carving is required. 
She is thus able to exercise supervision 
over the dining-room without imposing 
any restraint upon the guests. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



23 



BILL OF FARE AT FARMHOUSE ONE WEEK IN JULY. 

Price of Board, $5.00 Per Week. Pamily of Twelve. 

Our stomachs will make what's homely savory. — Cymbeline , Hi. 6. 



Toasted Wheat, Cream. 
Baked Beans, Codfish Balls. 
Pickled Beets. Brownbread. White Bread. 
Wild Raspberries. Coffee. 

Cream-of-Rice Soup. 

Chicken Sauted with Bacon. 

New Potatoes. Peas. 

Lettuce-and-Cucumber Salad. 

Raspberry Cannelon. Cookies. 

Cereal Coffee, 

Dried Beef. 

Bread and Butter. New Apple Sauce. 

Cottage Cheese. Tea. 



Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Brook Trout, Fried. Cucumbers. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Cerealine Muffins. Dry Toast. 

Berries. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of-Pea Soup. 

Corned Beef. Boiled Potatoes. 

Boiled Cabbage, Hoilandaise Sauce. 

Blueberry Sponge, Cream. 

Cereal Coffee. 

SVPJ^EJi. 

Salt Codfish, Toasted. 

Bread and Butter. Custard Pie. 

Cookies. Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Victoria Chicken. Toast. 

Baked Potatoes. Toasted Wheat, Fried. 

Maple Syrup. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Chicken Soup. 

Broiled Ham. Poached Eggs. Mashed Potato. 

Spinach. 

German Puffs, Raspberry Sauce. 

Cereal Coffee. 

SUrPER. 

Milk Toast. 

Baked-Bean Salad. Bread and Butter. 

Blueberries. Cookies. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Vitos, Cream. 

Corned-Beef Hash. Eggs in Shell. 

Pickled Beets. 

Blueberry Muffins. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Stewed Chicken, Baking-Powder Biscuit. 

Cabbage aii Gratin. String Beans. 

Green-Tomato Sweet Pickle. 

Vanilla Ice-Cream, Maple Sauce. Cookies. 

Cereal Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin. 

Lettuce Salad. Bread and Butter. 

Berries. Cake. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Pettijohn's Breakfast Food. 

Fried Pork. Fried Apples. 

Scrambled Eggs. Baked Potato Cakes. 

Quaker Oats Biscuit (Baking Powder). 

Blueberries. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of-Spinach Soup. 

Black Bass Baked with Stuffing. 

Peas. Potatoes. 

Beets Stuffed wnth Cucumber, French 

Dressing. 

Blueberry Pie. Cereal Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Lettuce and-Egg Salad, Boiled Dressing. 

Toasted Biscuit. Rye Bread. 

Berries. Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Gluten Breakfast Cereal, Cream. 

Creamed Corned Beef aii Gratin. 

Cucumbers. 

Boston Brownbread, Toasted. 

Berries. Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Creole Soup. 

Boiled Salt Salmon, Egg Sauce. 

Potatoes. Peas. Early Sweet Corn. 

Cole-slaw. Blackberry Shortcake. 

Cereal Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Wheatlet and Milk. 

Bread and Butter. New Apple Sauce. 

Cottage Cheese. 

Chocolate Custard. Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Old Gristmill Rolled Wheat, 

Cream. 

Salmon Heated in Cream. 

Baked Potatoes. Toast. 

Blackberries. 

Coffee. 



DINNER (Picnic). 

Cold Tongue. 
Eggs Cooked in Shell. 
Green-Tomato Pickles. 
Bread - and - Butter Sand- 
wiches. 
Potato Salad. 
Milk Sherbet (Lemon). 
Cake. Coffee. 



SUPPER. 

Fish Chowder, Crackers. 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Cereal-Coffee Jelly. 

Whipped Cream. 

Iced Tea. 



24 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 




SPECIAL MENUS FOR EARLY SUMMER, 

WEDDING BREAKFAST (JUNE). 

(Guests Seated.) 

"They present her with wedding gilts and offerings of consecrated wild rice." 

Sugared Strawberries in Swedish Cases. Devilled Clams in Shells. 

Cutlets of Chicken Breast, with Ragout. Hot Yeast Rolls. New Peas. 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Sweetbread and Cucumber. 

White Mayonnaise. Mosaic Sandwiches. 

Strawberry Sherbet and Banana Cream, Panach^e. 

Bride's Cake. Assorted Cakes. Bonbons. 

Coffee. 



CLASS=DAY SPREAD (JUNE). 

Safe from any contagion of learning, except such as might be developed from 
previous infection. — Lowell. 

Sweetbread Patties. Asparagus Patties. 

Salmon Salad in Aspic. 

Lobster Salad. Pim-olas. Salted Nuts. Salad Rolls. 

Chicken Loaf. Boiled Ham. 

Assorted Sandwiches. 

Red-Orange Sherbet, Moulded; Garnish: Pineapple Jelly (tinted green). 

Strawberry-Pudding Glace. Fruit Punch. Lemonade. 



COUNTRY LUNCHEON (JULY). 

(Unexpected Guests.) 

" She brought us, in a beechen bowl, 

Sweet milk that smacked of mountain thyme 
Oatcake ; and such a yellow roll 
Of butter — it gilds all my rhyme." 



Currants, Red and White. Sugar. 
Sardine Canapes. Olives. Broiled Chicken, Alabama Style. 
Cuiry of Rice. New Peas. 
Lettuce-and-Asparagus Salad. Cheese Croutons. 

Curds and Whey, (Junket) Cream. Cafe Noir. 

Cream-of-Pea Soup. Home-Cured Ham, Broiled. 

Lettuce, Cucumbers and Peppergrass, French Dressing. 

Wheat Mutiins. Wild Red Raspberries. Cream. Coffee. 




THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



25 



RECIPES USED IN PRECEDING MENUS. 

(In all recipes where fioiir is used, wiles s otherivisc stated, the flour is measured 
after sifti?ig once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is flUed with a 
spoon and a level cupful is meant. A tablespoonful or a feaspoonful of any 
designated material is a level spoonful of such material.) 



Creole Soup. 
Boil young peas, asparagus tips, and 
small dice of carrots, separately, until 
tender ; drain, and set aside to serve 
in the soup. To the water in which 
the vegetables were cooked add enough 
to make one quart; in this cook two 



from the fire ivithout boiling; add more 

seasoning, if desired, and the prepared 

vegetables. Serve with croutons. 

Consomme with Chicken Custard a?td 

Peas. 

To three pints of hot consomme add 

half a cup of cooked peas or asparagus 




TURBAN OF LOBSTER. 



onions and two or three stalks of celery, 
pass through a sieve, add a pint of 
scalded milk, and salt and pepper to 
taste, and cook ten or fifteen minutes, 
stirring constantly at first, with three 
tablespoonfuls of flour, diluted with 
cold milk. Beat the yolks, of two eggs, 
dilute with a little of the hot soup, and 
stir into the rest of the soup. Remove 



tips, and the following custard cut into 
slices, and then into cubes or fanciful 
shapes. Tomato pulp may be used in 
the place of the milk or cream, when a 
pink color is desired. 

Chicken Custard. 
Pound two ounces of cooked chicken 
(one-fourth a cup) in a mortar; with 
the pestle press it through a puree 



26 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



sieve, add two eggs slightly beaten, ten 
drops of almond extract, three table- 
spoonfuls of milk or cream, and salt 
and cayenne to taste. Turn into a but- 
tered mould or cup, and set in hot 
water to poach. Let cool before un- 
moulding and cutting. 

Cream of Asparagus. 
Wash one bunch of asparagus; cut 
off the tips and cook separately. Cut 
the rest in pieces, and cook, until tender, 



Turban of Lobster. 
Cook one -fourth a cup, each, of 
bread crumbs and cream ; add three- 
fourths a cup of pounded lobster meat, 
salt and pepper, and the beaten whites 
of two eggs. Line a border mould 
with this mixture, and arrange the lob- 
ster tail, cut in coUops, in the centre. 
Stir the yolks of two eggs, and one 
whole egg, well beaten, into three- 
fourths a cup of white sauce ; add salt 




CUTLETS OF CHICKEN BREAST WITH MUSflROOMS. 



in Avater to cover ; then pass through 
a sieve. Melt one-fourth a cup of but- 
ter, and cook in it one-fourth a cup of 
flour ; add one pmt of milk and one 
quart of white stock, \vell seasoned ; 
let boil ten minutes at one side of the 
range, then add the asparagus water 
and pulp, and half a cup of thick 
cream ; add more salt and pepper if 
needed, and nutmeg as desired. Pour 
into the tureen over the asparagus tips 
with a cup of cooked peas. 



and pepper, if needed, and pour around 
the collops. Bake, standing in a pan 
of water^ until firm ; let stand a mo- 
ment, then turn from the mould, and 
serve with butter or cream sauce. 
Cutlets of Chicken Breast ivith Mush- 
roo7ns. 
Remove meat from the legs and sec- 
ond joints of an uncooked fowl, to 
make half a pound, then cook the rest of 
the fowl until tender. Pound the raw 
meat to a smooth pulp (this may be done 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



27 



more easily if the tendons be drawn 
from the legs before dressing); add 
three tablespoonfuls of thick cream, one 
tablespoonful of thick bechamel sauce, 
salt and pepper, and the unbeaten 
white of one Q.g^ ; mix thoroughly and 
pass through a sieve. Sprinkle a dozen 
buttered cutlet moulds with chopped 
parsley ; fit into each a very thin slice 
of cooked chicken breast, cover w4th a 
layer of pounded chicken, and press 



chopped fine, in three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, with a slice of onion ; drain 
out the mushrooms and onion, and 
add one-fourth a cup of butter : when 
melted, add one-fourth a cup of flour, 
cook until frothy, add one cup and a 
half of chicken broth, salt and pepper, 
and, when the boiling-point is reached, 
add the mushrooms and the rest of the 
chicken cut in cubes. Let stand over 
hot water fifteen or twentv minutes, 




'EAL FORCEMEAT BALLS i.\ .CURRt SAuCE, 



upon this a thin slice of chicken, tongue, 
or ham. cutting it to fit the mould : set 
the moulds on a trivet in a pan, pour 
boiling water around them, and poach 
in the oven, or on the top of the range, 
fifteen or twenty minutes. With pastry 
bag and star tube fashion an open case 
of either plain mashed or duchess po- 
tato ; arrange the cutlets around the 
case, and fill the centre with 

MUSHROOMS IX BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

Saute' a pound of mushroom caps, 
peeled and broken in pieces, and stems 



then add the yolks of two eggs, beaten, 
and diluted with from half to a whole 
cup of cream, as is needed. 
Veal Forcc77ieat Balls in Curry Sauce. 
Pass a pound and a half of veal and 
one-fourth a pound of salt pork through 
a meat-chopper; add one cup and a 
half of cracker crumbs, a teaspoonful 
and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of pepper, half a cup of cream, milk, 
stock, or water, two well-beaten eggs, 
and the juice of half a lemon. Shape 
into balls ; saute the balls to a golden 



28 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



brown, on all sides, in salt-pork fat or 
butter, with a sliced onion. Take out 
the balls, add more butter if needed, 
one-fourth a cup of liour, two table- 
spoonfuls of curry powder, and half a 
teaspoonful of salt ; when frothy dilute 
with about a pint of milk, water, or 
stock, let boil, then strain over the 
balls, which should be half covered 
with the sauce ; cover, and let simmer 
slowly, about forty-five minutes. Serve 



Then brush over with butter and broil 
in a well - oiled broiler to a golden 
brown. Pour over the chicken the 
gravy in which it was cooked. Sprinkle 
with fine-chopped cress. 

Chicken Loaf. 
Remove the flesh from two uncooked 
fowl weighing about three pounds and 
one-half, each ; chop fine with one 
pound of veal and a cup of blanched 
almonds. Add six crackers, rolled fine, 




CURRIED VEGETABLES. 



in the centre of a ring of hot boiled 
rice. 

Broiled Chicke^i, Alabama Style. 
Cut a young chicken, neatly dressed, 
in halves, cutting down the back and 
breast ; with small wooden skewers 
fasten a strip of bacon over the breast 
on each piece ; put in a dripping- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter 
melted in half a cup of hot water, and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake 
until tender, basting often, or without 
basting if covered with a second pan. 



one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoon- 
ful of pepper, four eggs well beaten, 
the juice of half a lemon, four table- 
spoonfuls of cream, milk or sauce, and 
onion juice, mushroom catsup and 
ground mace, one or all, to suit the 
taste. Mix thoroughly and shape into 
a compact loaf. Slide on to a tin bak- 
ing-sheet, brush over with beaten egg, 
sprinkle with crumbs, cover the top 
with slices of salt pork or bacon, and 
bake, resting on a rack in the dripping- 
pan, about two hours, basting often. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



29 



The oven should be very hot at first, 
to sear over the outside and keep in 
the juice, then the temperature should 
be lowered to a very moderate heat. 
Serve when cold, sliced very thin. 
Cover the skin and bones with cold 
water and let simmer to a pint of stock. 
Curried Vegetables. 
Melt one-fourth a cup of butter and 
cook in it half an onion ; add one- 



oil to coat the peas, and one-third as 
much vinegar as oil), dust with black 
pepper, freshly ground when possible, 
also salt if needed. Toss the peas un- 
til well mixed with the condiments, then 
turn into a salad bowl and arrange the 
fish, well drained, in the centre of the 
peas. Finish with heart leaves of let- 
tuce and mayonnaise dressing and serve 
at once. 




SALMON-AND-GREEN-PEA SALAD 



fourth a cup of flour, one tablespoonful 
of curry powder, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and, when well cooked, a pint of 
milk ; strain over one cup of cooked 
peas, half a cup, each, of potato balls, 
turnips cut into straws, and carrots cut 
into fanciful shapes. Reheat over hot 
water. 

Salmo7i-a7id-Green-Fea Salad. 
Squeeze a little lemon juice over 
squares or flakes of cooked salmon 
(fresh or canned) and ■ let stand to 
chill. Dress one pint of cooked peas 
with oil and vinegar (use just enough 



Rolled Lorn of Veal. 
Bone a loin of veal and trim neatly. 
Chop one-fourth a pound of bacon very 
fine and mix with two cups of soft bread 
crumbs ; season with half a teaspoonful 
of powdered sweet herbs or spiced 
seasoning, salt and pepper ; add a 
beaten egg, and, if liked moist, about 
half a cup of water. Spread the dress- 
ing upon the inside of the veal, roll 
tightly, and keep in shape with bands 
of cloth. Cover the bones and trim- 
mings with cold water; when heated 
to the boiling-point, put the loin on 



30 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



the bones, and strips of bacon over the 
veal ; add water to cover partly, and 
let simmer gently about four hours, or 
until tender, adding salt when half 
cooked. Partly cool in the liquid, 
drain, and finish cooling under a weight. 
Strain the broth from the bones, let 
cool, remove the fat, and reduce the 
residue to a glaze by cooking. Re- 
move the strips of cloth from the meat, 
brush over several times with melted 



with a string. Bake about twenty 
minutes in a slow oven. Remove the 
string and serve in the papers. Pass, 
at the same time, hollandaise, becha- 
mel, or tomato sauce. 

Bass Forcemeat. 
Pound in a mortar half a pound of 
bass, from which the skin and bones 
have been taken ; add to the fish, while 
pounding, the whites of two eggs, little 
at a time, pass through a sieve, add 




STUFFED-EGG-AND-TOMATO SALAD. 



glaze, and serve, sliced thin. Garnish 
with parsley. 

Brook Trout ifi Paper Cases. 
Dress half a dozen brook trout, 
weighing four ounces each, without 
destroying shape. Fill with a fish 
forcemeat, and secure the slit made in 
dressing. Brush over with melted but- 
ter, or olive oil, pieces of paper, and 
put a very thin shaving of salt pork in 
the centre of each, with a trout above 
it ; dust with salt and pepper, then 
fold the paper, and fasten it closely 



gradually half a cup of cream, and sea- 
son with salt and pepper. 

Stuffed- Egg-a7id- Tomato Salad. 
Cut two hard-boiled eggs into halves 
lengthwise; remove the yolks, and cut 
the rounding side so that the ^gg will 
stand level on tomatoes cut in halves. 
Sift the yolks, add half a cucumber 
chopped fine, and four fillets of an- 
chovy cut in small pieces ; mix with 
mayonnaise dressing and fill the space 
left by the yolks with the mixture, 
rounding it on top; place a rolled fillet 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



31 



of anchovy on the top of this, add 
crisp lettuce, and serve with mayon- 
naise in a bowl. 

Blueberry Pitffs. 
Beat two eggs until light and thick, 
without separating ; add half a cup of 
sugar and half a cup of milk. Sift 
together four level teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and two cups of flour, and stir into the 
liquid ingredients ; then stir in one 



standing over hot water. Cut choice 
strawberries in halves lengthwise, dip 
the cut sides in the gelatine, and with 
them line a glass serving-dish, chilled. 
Add half a cup of sugar, a cup of water, 
and the juice of a lemon to the rest of 
a quart of berries, and cook until the 
berries are softened. (There should 
be a generous pint of the mixture.) 
Stir in one-fourth a cup of fine, quick- 
cooking tapioca and cook until the 




STRAWBERRY TAPIOCA. 



cup of blueberries. Turn into buttered 
cups (seven or eight will be needed) 
and steam half an hour. The batter 
should be of a consistency to drop 
from the end of a spoon. In some 
cases one-fourth to one-half a cup more 
of flour will be needed. Serve hot, 
with cream and sugar, or maple syrup 
and butter. 

Strawberry Tapioca. 
Soften half a teaspoonful of gela- 
tine in cold water to cover ; dissolve 
with two teaspoonfuls of boiling water 



tapioca is transparent (from five to ten 
minutes); then fold in the whites of two 
eggs beaten stiff, let cool slightly, then 
pour into the dish lined with berries. 
Chill, and at serving-time decorate with 
double cream, sweetened and beaten 
solid, and whole berries. 

Strawberry Cream in Glasses. 
Mix together one quart of ripe straw- 
berries (wild berries preferred), a scant 
pint of thick, sweet cream, and the 
juice of half a lemon. Pass the mix- 
ture through a fine sieve, then add a 



32 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



cup and a fourth of sugar, and whip 
until stiff. Serve very cold in glasses 
with lady- fingers or other delicate 
cake. If the berries are acid, more 
sugar will be required. 

Straivberry Souffle. 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; 
add gradually half a cup of flour, and, 
when well blended, dilute with one 
cup and a half of hot strawberry 
pulp (strawberries mashed and pressed 



ICED PUREE OF STRAWBERRIES. 

Pound together a quart of straw- 
berries, a cup of granulated sugar, and 
the juice of a lemon, then pass through 
a fine sieve or a cheese-cloth. Serve 
after chilling on ice. 

Strawbei-?-y Tj'ifle. 

Cut strawberries in halves and mix 
with fine granulated sugar to taste ; let 
stand half an hour. Arrange lady- 
fingers, log-cabin style, on a serving- 




STRAWBERRY TR -LE 



through a fine sieve), and cook over 
hot water, stirring constantly, until 
thickened, then occasionally, ten min- 
utes ; beat the yolks of four eggs, beat 
again with a cup of sugar, and, when 
the ^gg looks cooked, add a cup of 
sliced berries and fold in the whites of 
six eggs beaten stiff. Turn into a 
buttered baking-dish, or into buttered 
paper cases. In former, set in hot 
water and bake about forty minutes; 
in latter, about fifteen minutes. Serve 
at once with an 



dish, filling in the open space in 
the centre, as the cakes are added, 
with the sugared berries : pile the 
berries on the top to simulate a 
roof, and cover with the whip from a 
cup of thin cream beaten with a whip- 
churn. 
Rhuha?-h Jelly 7vith P?-ese?'ved Ginger. 
Add to the recipe for rhubarb jelly, 
given in a former number of the Maga- 
zine, one-fourth a cup of syrup from 
the ginger jar and one-fourth a cup of 
ginger cut in very small bits. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



33 



Banana Custard. 

Free three bananas from skins and 
stringy portions, pass through a vege- 
table ricer or sieve, and add to a pint 
of scalded milk. Beat the yolks of 
four eggs, add one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt and half a cup of sugar, and 
when well mixed with the yolks dilute 
gradually with the hot mixture ; then 
return the whole to a saucepan and 
cook over hot water, stirring constantly, 
until the mixture coats the spoon. 
Flavor with the juice of half a lemon 
or with half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. Turn into glasses and serve 
thoroughly chilled. Put two or three 
strawberries and two or three slices of 
banana on the top of the custard in 
each glass at serving. 

Hamburg Cream ivith Fruit Juice. 

Put a cup of raspberry juice and a 
cup of currant juice in a double boiler 
over the fire to heat. Beat the yolks 
of nine eggs; add one cup and a 
fourth of granulated sugar and beat 
again ; add the juice scalding hot to 
the eggs and sugar, little at a time, and 
return the mixture to the boiler and 
cook until it thickens as a boiled cus- 
tard; remove from the fire and fold 
into the mixture the stiffly beaten 
whites of the eggs. Serve very cold in 
small glasses with macaroons or cake. 
Milk Sherbet (^Lemo?i). 

Pour one quart of milk and one cup 
of cream into the can of a freezer 
packed in ice and salt ; when thor- 
oughly chilled, add the juice of six 
lemons (removed in such a way that 
none of the oil from the rind is ex- 
tracted) mixed with two cups of sugar. 
Freeze as usual. 

Ginger Sherbet. 

Boil a quart of water and a pint of 



sugar fifteen minutes ; add one tea- 
spoonful of gelatine softened in cold 
water, strain, and when cool add (re- 
serve two ounces of the ginger root) a 
fifteen - cent jar of preserved ginger 
pounded in a mortar and passed 
through a sieve, and a cup and one- 
fourth of lemon juice. Freeze in the 
usual manner, adding, when half frozen, 
the two ounces of ginger cut in small 
pieces. 

Gifiger Bojnbe Glace. 

Line a melon mould with ginger 
sherbet : fill the centre with charlotte- 
russe mixture, cover with sherbet, press 
down the cover tightly over a sheet of 
wrapping-paper, and let stand about 
one hour packed in equal parts of ice 
and salt. 

Charlotte-Russe Mixture. 

Beat one cup of double cream, 
chilled, until solid to the bottom of the 
bowl ; beat the white of an egg stiff, 
add gradually one third a cup of pow- 
dered sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla 
or lemon extract, then fold the cream 
into the ^g^ mixture. 

Banana Ice-Creain. 

Heat one quart of milk, one cup of 
thick cream, and one cup and a fourth 
of sugar until lukewarm, not exceeding 
loo^ Fahr. ; stir in one junket tablet 
crushed and dissolved in two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water ; let stand un- 
til the milk jellies, then begin to freeze 
in the usual manner. When half 
frozen, add six or eight bananas, 
peeled, scraped, pressed through a 
sieve or ricer, and mixed with the juice 
of three lemons, and finish freezing. 
This cream is particularly good served 
with strawberry sherbet. The two may 
be moulded in layers in a brick mould, 
or as a bombe in a melon mould. 



34 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



RECIPES FROM PUBLIC DEMONSTRATIONS AT THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL. 



German Chocolate Cookies. 

Beat two eggs without separating 
whites and yolks ; add one cup of 
brown sugar, two bars of German choc- 
olate, grated, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of cinnamon, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, rind of half a lemon, and one cup 
and a third of chopped almonds; then 
add one cup of flour and a level tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder, sifted to- 
gether. Drop on buttered tins and 
bake in a slow oven. 

Wabiut Macaroo7is. 

Pound fine one-fourth a pound of 
walnuts with one-fourth a pound of 
sugar. Mix with the whites of two 
eggs beaten stiff. Shape with a spoon 
or pastry tube and bag on unbuttered 
paper, and bake in a slow oven until 
firm. 

Scotch Cake. 

Work together half a pound of bread 
flour, one -fourth a pound of brown 
sugar, and half a pound of butter. 
Chill, roll out one-third an inch thick, 
and cut in triangles or other shape. 
Bake in a slow oven. 

Currant Cake. 

Cream half a cup of butter; add, 
gradually, one cup of sugar, then two 
eggs and the yolk of a third, well beat- 
en, half a cup of milk, and two cups of 
flour sifted with three teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, and, lastly, one cup of 
currants mixed with one tablespoonful 
of flour. Bake forty minutes in a but- 
tered and floured pan. 

Ora?ige IVafers. 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter ; 
add half a cup of sugar, gradually, one 
egg w^ell beaten, and seven-eighths a 



cup of flour sifted with one teaspoonful 
of baking-powder. Add one tablespoon- 
ful of yellow grated rind of an orange 
and one-third a teaspoonful of orange 
extract. Chill, roll out, decorate with 
four halves of blanched almonds, dust 
with granulated sugar, and bake to a 
light straw color in a slow oven. 

Cucumber Sauce for Broiled Fish. 

Pare and grate two cucumbers ; drain, 
season with salt, cayenne, and vinegar, 
or lemon juice. 

Chickefi a la Stanley. 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter ; add 
one large onion, sliced, and two chick- 
ens (broilers), cut in pieces for serving ; 
cover, and cook until the onion begins 
to fry, then add one cup of chicken 
stock, and cook until the chicken is 
tender (make the stock from the necks, 
pinions, and giblets). Remove the 
chicken, pass the stock and onion 
through a sieve, and add to three table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, 
cooked together. Add thin cream to 
make the sauce of the right consist- 
ency. Season with salt and pepper. 
Strawberry Shortcake. 

Sift together, two or three times, two 
cups of pastry flour, four teaspoonfuls 
(level measurements) of baking-pow- 
der, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cut 
into this mixture four tablespoonfuls of 
butter; add one beaten ^^^., and about 
half a cup of milk. Shape, and bake 
from twelve to eighteen minutes. Split 
apart with a hot knife, spread each 
part with butter, cover with berries cut 
in halves, and mixed with sugar to 
taste ; put the two layers one above 
the other, cover the top with whipped 
cream, then decorate with more cream 
(using bag and star tube) and whole 
berries. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



35 



IN REFERENCE TO MENUS. 



Special Menus. 

The Swedish cases — batter fried on 
a hot timbale iron — may be made a 
day or two in advance. Select fresh 
choice berries, and serve unhulled. 
Brush the berries with white of ^gg^ 
beaten, and diluted with a tablespoon- 
ful of water ; then roll lightly in sifted, 
powdered sugar. Serve three or four 
berries in each case. 

The cutlets of chicken breast, with 
the ragout, may be served with the 
peas on individual plates. If served 
as in the half-tone, which makes an 
exceedingly pretty dish, it would un- 
doubtedly save some embarrassment 
if the dish were passed to the hostess 
first. She would help herself to a cut- 
let, a star of potato from the outside 
of the base of the case holding the 
ragout, also to some of the ragout. If 
the other guests follow her lead, the 
dish will present a good appearance 
until nearly all are served. 

Double cream, beaten solid, is added 
to the mayonnaise dressing just at the 
moment of serving. A few grains of 
salt and a little lemon juice may also 
be added. 

Let the sweetbread, cut in small 
cubes, stand in French dressing until 
ready to serve ; drain before mixing 
with the cubes of cucumber and may- 
onnaise. 

For mosaic sandwiches, cut white, 
brown, and graham (or entire -wheat) 
bread in wafer-like slices; use three or 
four pieces in each sandwich, spread 
with butter, and press together, so that 
the colors will contrast. 

Mould the ice in brick moulds ; if 
moulds having but one cover be used, 



put the sherbet at the bottom of the 
mould, so that, when turned out, the 
weight will be upon the ice of the most 
body. 

In the menu for the class-day spread, 
if red oranges are not readily procured, 
prepare a pineapple sherbet, tint it a 
delicate green, and, when serving, sur- 
round with strawberry jelly cut fine 
with a fork. 

The strawberry-pudding glace is 
strawberry ice-cream moulded in a 
charlotte mould lined with lady-fingers. 
As a charlotte mould is without a cover, 
it needs be set into a pail and the cover 
of the pail pressed down over wrapping- 
paper, and buried in equal parts of ice 
and salt an hour. 

In the country luncheon, serve a 
broiled sardine on a similarly shaped 
bit of bread sauted in butter, squeeze a 
little lemon juice over the fish, and 
serve at once. 

Saratoga potato chips may be used 
in the place of the rice curry given in 
the menu. 

For the cheese croutons cut the slices 
of bread in finger lengths or triangles, 
or stamp out into rounds, spread lightly 
with butter, then cover with a slice of 
cheese thin as can be cut ; set in the 
oven a few moments to melt the cheese. 
The cheese should not be browned in 
the least, but served the instant it is 
melted. Send to the dining-room cov- 
ered with a hot dish. 

Curds and whey (made with junket) 
ought certainly to be served in perfec- 
tion in the country. 

For the cream-of-pea soup, use left- 
over peas, pressed through a sieve and 
diluted with \vhite sauce ; from a pint 



36 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, 



to a quart of sauce may be used with 
a pint of pulp. If too thick, dilute with 
cream, stock, or milk. The addition 
of a little onion juice is agreeable to 
many. 

Me?ius at Fannhonse. 
If the chickens to be served on Sun- 
day are mature, they need be parboiled 
before sauteing; then season, roll in 
flour, and saute to a golden brown in 
hot bacon fat. Do not saute the necks 
or backs ; remove the flesh for the 
Victoria chicken, retaining these bones, 
the giblets, the tips of the wings, and 
the feet, for the soup kettle. 

If broiled chickens are to be served, 
they may be dressed most expeditiously 
in this way : Remove the feathers and 
singe ; cut a lengthwise slit in the skin 
below the leg joint, and draw out the 
tendons ; then cut through the flesh on 
each side of the backbone, from the 
neck to the end of the rump ; cut the 
skin at the top of the breast, and re- 
move the neck, backbone, and all in- 
ternal organs in one mass ; then scrape 
the flesh from the breastbone, and re- 
move that also ; wipe carefully, brush 
over with oil or melted butter, and sprin- 
kle with lemon juice, sliced onions, and 
bits of parsley ; let stand an hour or 
more, then drain, and broil slowly about 
half an hour, basting occasionally with 
the marinade, or cook in the oven first, 
and then brown in the broiler. 

The chicken and peas left over, 
heated together in tomato sauce, give 
the Victoria chicken for Monday's 
breakfast. At this meal we have baked 
potatoes, taking advantage of the hot 
range that has been heated for the 
wash-boiler. 

In serving coffee to this compara- 
tively small number, the coffee may be 
made and served in good condition 



from an ordinary coffee-pot; but the 
liquid needs be turned from the grounds 
into a clean receptacle after it has stood 
the proper length of time. If later on 
several cups are to be served at one 
time, stir in a level tablespoonful of 
ground coffee mixed with a little white 
of Q^g and cold water; this is for sake 
of the aroma ; let boil a moment or 
two, then serve. 

We give spinach as the vegetable 
for the dinner Monday, hoping that 
every farmer who takes boarders has 
made arrangements for an early kitchen 
garden. 

The German puffs, given many times 
before, are a delicate, light mixture 
baked in a gem -pan and served hot 
with sauce. 

The fried pork is the fried salt pork 
of fifty years ago. Select clear, fat 
pork, and cut in slices about one-third 
an inch in thickness ; cover them with 
boiling water; then dip the slices, one 
at a time, in flour, first on one side, 
and then on the other, and put at once 
into a hot frying-pan ; let cook slowly 
until well browned, then turn and brown 
upon the other side, and drain on soft 
paper. When well cooked, but little 
remains save a dry, crispy shell. Drain 
off part of the fat, and into the rest 
put some apples, cored, but sliced with- 
out paring ; stir them with the fat, then 
cover, and let cook slowly until tender, 
turning them carefully now and then. 

Scramble the eggs in a part of the 
fat. The potato cakes are shaped from 
the mashed potato left from the pre- 
vious dinner; these are brushed over 
with yolk of ^g^ diluted with milk 
and baked on a buttered tin. 

Make the blueberry sponge for Wed- 
nesday's dinner from bread cut in 
small squares and fitted into an 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



37 



earthen bowl ; pour over the bread, as 
it is put in place, as much hot juice 
from blueberries, cooked in sugar, and 
strained, as the bread will take up. 
Let stand until cold and set. Serve with 
sugar and cream. This dish is most 
easily served when moulded in cups. 

If pastry be objected to, the custard 
pie may be made with a shredded- wheat 
crust. Butter an agate pie -dish and 
sprinkle the bottom and sides with the 
biscuit rolled fine ; make the crust as 
thick as desired ; let stand a few mo- 
ments, then fill with the ordinary cus- 
tard mixture and bake as any pie. 

On Saturday a picnic dinner is 
planned, to be served in the woods. 
An iron teakettle is to be carried, so that 
water may be boiled for coffee. The 
stone "fireplace" of last year is re- 
paired ; an iron bar, holding the kettle, 
is placed over it, and with boiling 
water coffee is quickly made ; the eggs 
may be cooked in hot water, or roasted 
in the hot ashes, — 
"Turned by a gentle fire and roasted rare." 

Adolphe Meyer, in his little book, 
" Eggs, and How to Use them," refers 
to this custom, alluded to in Tabella 
Cibaria as follows: "In countries 



w^here a wood fire is constantly used, 
the cottager half buries his eggs in an 
upright position, in hot ashes, upon 
the hearth, and when a clear drop 
oozes on the top of the shell the eggs 
are fit to be eaten. Gastrologers are 
of the opinion that, when done in this 
way, they have a much better flavor 
than when boiled. Fancy goes far in 
matters of taste." 

For the potato salad, dress cubes of 
cold potato with oil, lemon juice or 
vinegar, pepper and salt, and onion 
juice and powdered parsley, if desired; 
cover tightly in a bowl ; wash the let 
tuce, and arrange the leaves, one above 
another, closely together ; then put in a 
tin pail, and cover tightly to, exclude 
the air. When ready to serve, swing 
the lettuce gently in a towel and it will 
quickly dry ; then add French dressing, 
and serve with the potatoes. Chopped 
white and sifted yolk, or cold eggs cut 
in slices, might be added to the potato 
cubes, and dressed with them before 
packing. 

The milk sherbet, after being frozen, 
may be repacked in ice and salt, and, 
if closely covered, will be in good con- 
dition at dinner time. 



Spiced Currants. 
Melt four pounds of sugar in a pint 
of vinegar; add seven pounds of 
currants, one tablespoonful, each, of 
ground cinnamon and cloves, one nut- 
meg, grated, one teaspoonful of all- 
spice, and boil two hours. 

Bottled Currants. 
Mix together fine granulated sugar 
and dry currants, freed from stems. 



in the proportion of one pound and a 
fourth of sugar to one pound of fruit. 
With a wooden mallet, or pestle, crush 
until every fruit is broken. Fill glass 
jars to overflowing with the mixture. 
Use new rubbers, screw down the 
covers tightly, wrap the jars in paper, 
and keep in a dark place. Fruit put 
up in this way has the flavor of fresh 
fruit, and is particularly good to serve 
with meats. 




Queries and Answers, 



This department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. 
Questions relatittg to menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary 
science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully answered 
by the Editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the month 
preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answer by 
mail, please enclose postage stamp ; for menus, one dollar. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, ^ys Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 354. — Mrs. A. W. B., E?'- 
erett, Mass., writes : '' Kindly give si7?i- 
ple but novel mejiii for a children's party, 
to be held in the latter part of May or 
first of fune. Also give recipe for clam 
broth with whipped creai7i.'' 

Menu, Children's Party. 
Sugared Strawberries and Oranges in 
Orange Baskets. 
Chicken Broth. Pretzels. 
Broiled Beef Tenderloin. Potato Balls. 
Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 
Asparagus Tips on Bits of Toast. 
Lettuce Salad. 
Entire - Wheat - Bread Sandwiches. 
Ice -Cream in Meringues or Paper 
Baskets. 
Lady-Finger Sandwiches or Cake with 
Lighted Candles. 
Jack Horner Pie. 
There is nothing very '' novel " in 
this menu, but young children are not 
so fond of novelties as children of older 
growth. Our experience is that they 
enjoy most articles of food to which 
they are accustomed, or are served 
only occasionally. The beef, potatoes, 
and asparagus, served hot, may be 
thought too troublesome for such an 
occasion; but as this meal will prob- 
ably correspond to dinner, and often 
delicate children can illy digest a cold 
dinner, it might be best to serve hot 
dishes. 

For the lady-finger sandwiches, lightly 
spread fresh fingers with strawberry 



preserves and press together in pairs. 
If a plain cake, iced, and decorated 
with candles, be desired, very pretty 
candle-holders may be purchased for a 
few cents a dozen ; these may be used 
many times. One end of these is 
sharp, to press down into the cake ; the 
other holding the candle is cup-shaped, 
to catch the wax melted by the heat. 
If these be not available, fringed tissue 
paper, wound around the candle, will 
serve the same purpose. 

After the feast is ended and the 
finger-bowls passed, the Jack Horner 
pie may be brought in and set in the 
place of the floral decoration. This 
pie consists of a large pan, covered 
daintily with tissue paper, and filled 
with pretty trifles corresponding in 
number to the guests ; to these trifles 
narrow ribbons are attached, the ends 
of which are passed to the guests ; the 
top is covered with paper, thus con- 
cealing all that is within. At a given 
signal each child pulls its ribbon and 
captures a little souvenir. 
Clam Broth with Whipped Cream. 

Scrub half a peck of clams and 
rinse thoroughly ; put in saucepan with 
one cup of cold water. Cover, and 
steam until the shells are well opened. 
Strain the liquor and season with pep- 
per. Serve in cups with a spoonful of 
whipped cream on the broth in each 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



39 



cup. Or cream may be scalded, and 
added to the broth just before serving. 
A cup of cream to a quart of broth is 
a fair proportion. 



Query 355.— J/^-j-. R. F. R., Troy, 
N'. v.: " Recipes fo?' baked and fried 
bananas y 

Baked Batianas. 

Peel down a section of skin from 
each banana, and loosen the pulp, that 
it may be easily removed from the 
skin when baked ; replace the skins, 
and set the bananas into the oven. 
Bake until the skins are black and the 
bananas heated through — no longer. 
Remove the pulps from the skins and 
pile in the shape of a pyramid. Pour 
over them lemon, currant-jelly, or claret 
sauce. Serve as an entree or an en- 
tremet. 

Curra7it-Jelly Sauce. 

Melt half a cup of currant jelly in 
two-thirds a cup of boiling water ; cook 
in it a teaspoonful of cornstarch diluted 
with cold water to pour; cook five or 
six minutes, then add a teaspoonful of 
butter and a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. 

Fried Bananas. 

Remove skins and coarse threads 
from the bananas, cut in halves, length- 
wise, then each half crosswise ; sprinkle 
with powdered sugar and lemon juice, 
and let stand a few moments. Now 
^gg and crumb the sections (using, if 
desired, stale macaroon crumbs instead 
of bread), and fry in deep fat; drain 
on soft paper. Serve on a hot dish 
covered with lace paper. Pass with 
them a sweet sauce, if desired. 



ziNE C07itai7iing certaifi recipes for cur- 
ries. Also for recipe for tapioca with 
fruit ; not a soft custard, to be turned over 
fruity but a mixture like a frozen pud- 
ding. 

Color oj Curry Sauce. 

A curry sauce in which milk or white 
stock is used is of a light yellowish 
green color, a trifle yellower than the 
color of canned peas. When brown 
stock is used the color is a little darker. 

The recipes for curry of lobster and 
curry of rice were given on page 94, 
Vol. III. The index given in the April- 
May issue, 1899, includes the months 
of the year with which that issue ends. 
Fruit Tapioca. 

Stir one-third a cup of fine, quick- 
cooking tapioca, with one cup of cur- 
rants, citron, and sultanas, into one 
quart of scalded milk; cook until the 
tapioca is transparent. Beat two eggs 
with half a cup of sugar and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt, mace, and 
cinnamon ; dilute with a little of the 
tapioca mixture, then stir into that in 
the boiler ; add two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and turn into a buttered baking- 
dish; bake about half an hour. Serve 
hot with hard sauce, or serve cold with 
a meringue. 



Query 356.— ^rj-. H. T, M., Salem, 
Mass., writes in refere?ice to color of 
curry sauce, afid the issue of the Maga- 



Query 357.— J/r^. T. G. W., Soda- 
ville, Nev. : ^'Recipe for angel cake, and 
directions for mixi?ig cake that shall be 
fifie-gr allied.^'' 

Angel Cake. 

Beat one cup of whites of eggs until 
frothy ; add half a teaspoonful of cream- 
of-tartar, and continue beating until 
stiff ; cut and fold in one cup and a 
fourth of granulated sugar, sifted, and 
then one cup of flour, measured after 
sifting four times. Flavor with one 
teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake in an un- 



40 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



buttered tube pan, in oven a little hot- 
ter than for an ordinary sponge cake, 
about one hour. 

To Make Fine- Grained Cake. 
Beat the butter to a cream ; add the 
sugar gradually, beating until light and 
fluffy before more is added ; add the 
milk alternately with the flour, to which 
the requisite amount, and no more, of 
leavening material has been added. 
Beat thoroughly, then beat again after 
the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs 
have been added. When yolks are 
used, add them, beaten lightly, to the 
butter and sugar before the milk is 
added. Bake in an oven at proper 
temperature. This subject of mixing 
and baking cake will be treated more 
fully in the October number of this 
magazine. 



Query 358. — Mrs. E. J. O., Brook- 
lyn, JV. v.: ^'' Recipe for shrimp sauce 
served with shad roe ; not a drawn-butter 
sauce — somethifig more delicate, with a 
suspicion of sherry wine about it.^^ 
Shriinp Sauce. 

Prepare a drawn-butter sauce with 
one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and 
flour and one pint of well-seasoned 
fish stock ; cook on a corner of the 
range, where it bubbles occasionally on 
one side, half an hour or more ; skim 
off the butter carefully and add half a 
cup of sherry, or Madeira, and a cup of 
picked shrimps with a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice; a tablespoonful of shrimp 
butter may be added also, if desired. 



Query 359. — Airs. A. H., Harlem, 

N. v.: ^'- Recipes for bouillon, broiled 

live lobster, clam fritters, and Boston 

brownbread. How sei've the first three .?" 

Bouillon. 

Cut four pounds of beef from the 



under side of the round, or from the 
neck, into small cubes ; break two 
pounds of bone from the hind shin into 
pieces. Saute part of the meat in the 
marrow from the bone to a rich brown 
color ; let the rest of the meat and the 
bone soak, meanwhile, in three quarts 
of cold water (a pint for each pound of 
bone and meat); add the browned meat 
to the contents of the saucepan, rinsing 
out the browned material in the frying- 
pan with some of the liquid. Heat to 
the boiling-point, then skim and let 
cook just below the boiling-point about 
five hours. Then add one teaspoonful 
of peppercorns, one tablespoonful of 
salt, a small onion, a slice of turnip, 
three inches of carrot, and two stalks 
of celery, all cut fine. Add, also, a bay 
leaf, or sprig of thyme, and a sprig of 
parsley ; let simmer one hour, strain, 
and cool quickly. Remove the fat, add 
the whites, beaten slightly, and the 
crushed shells of three eggs, also, any 
additional seasoning desired ; stir con- 
stantly, while heating to the boiling- 
point, let boil five minutes, let stand 
five, then skim, and pass through a 
cheese-cloth spread over a colander. 
Reheat, and serve in cups. 

Broiled Live Lobster. 
With a strong, pointed knife make a 
deep, sharp cut, at the mouth, then 
draw the knife firmly but quickly 
through the body and entire length of 
tail ; open the lobster and take out the 
stomach, or lady, and the intestinal 
vein, which runs from the stomach to 
the extreme tip of the tail. Pull off the 
small claws, wash carefully, and spread 
in a well-oiled double broiler. Broil 
over clear coals about ten minutes on 
the flesh side, basting once with melted 
butter, turn and broil a few minutes 
less on the shell side ; crack open the 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, 



41 



large claws and serve at once on a hot 
serving-dish. Pass at the same time 
melted butter. If more convenient, 
the lobster may be cooked in a hot 
oven about fifteen minutes. Serve 
half a lobster, or a whole one of small 
size, as a portion. Spread with butter 
before baking. 

Clam Fritters. 
(Boston Cooking-School.) 

Beat two eggs until light, add one-" 
third a cup of milk and one cup and a 
third of flour sifted with two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking-powder. Chop one pint 
of clams, add half a teaspoonful of 
salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pep- 
per, and stir into the batter. Drop by 
the spoonful into hot fat and fry to a 
golden-brown color. If desired, sub- 
stitute clam liquor for the milk. Serve 
on a folded napkin or on fringed 
paper. 

Boston Bro7V?ibread. 

Sift together one cup, each, of yel- 
low cornmeal, rye meal, and entire- 
wheat flour ; add three-fourths a cup 
of molasses, a teaspoonful of salt, three 
teaspoonfuls of soda, and one pint of 
thick sour milk; mix thoroughly and 
steam in a mould or in buttered baking- 
powder boxes. Four pound-size boxes 
will be required. 



Query 360.— ^. W. T., Bloomjield, 
N. J. : '^Eecipe for jelly sauce. Why 
do cakes that contain no whites of eggs 
so often fall in the centre V^ 
Why Certain Cakes Fall in the Centre. 

Try baking the cake in a tube pan. 
If that does not prove a remedy, add 
a little more flour. Perhaps the fact 
that the cell walls in the yolk of an 
■egg are not so strong as those in the 
white may have something to do with 
it. And yet an angel cake is likely 



to turn out much more successfully 
when baked in a tube pan. Undoubt- 
edly all very delicate cakes will be 
lighter throughout if baked in small 
tins or tube pans. A recipe for jelly 
sauce is given in answer to Query 355. 



Query 361. — Mrs. f. E. R., New 
York City : '-'■Recipe for stuffed eggs. ''^ 
Stuffed Eggs. 

Cut hard - boiled eggs in halves, 
lengthwise, remove the yolks, and put 
the whites aside in pairs so they may 
be fitted together again. Mash the 
yolks, add half the quantity of chicken, 
ham, tongue, or sardines, pounded 
smooth, season to taste with salt, pap- 
rica, mustard, and lemon juice ; add a 
little creamed butter and fill the whites 
with the mixture; press the respective 
halves together, egg and bread-crumb, 
and fry in deep fat. Drain on soft 
paper. Serve hot with tomato or bech- 
amel sauce. Or half cover with tomato 
sauce, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, 
and bake until the crumbs are browned. 



Query 362. — Mrs. f. G. B., Trefi- 
to?i, N.f.: ^^In steami7ig broiimbread, 
when the water has boiled away can you 
replenish it without making the bj-ead 
'heavy?" 

Steaming Brownbread. 

As the water boils away add boiling 
water, and no ill effects will result. 

Query 363.— J/ri\ G. T. S.. Hot 
Springs^ So. Dak.: ^'-Recipe for sweet 
pickles ; the simpler the 7'ecipe the better. ^^ 
Sweet Pickled Pears. 

Pare seven pounds of pears without 
removing the stems. To avoid discol- 
oring, let them stand in cold water until 
all are ready. Make a syrup of three 
pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar, 



42 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



and half a cup of whole mixed spices, 
or use simply cinnamon and cloves ; 
add the pears and cook until tender. 
Pack in jars, reduce the syrup by boil- 
ing, and pour over the fruit in the jars; 
fill and cover the jars as in canning. 
Prepare peaches, plums, ripe cucum- 
bers, ripe muskmelon rind, and green 
tomatoes in the same manner. Rub 
the peaches to remove the down, or 
pare them ; prick the skins of the plums 
in several places ; let the sliced toma- 
toes, cucumbers, and melon rind, pre- 
pared for cooking, stand over night in 
salted water (a tablespoonful of salt to 
a quart of water). If too salt scald 
before cooking in the syrup. 



the fruit in the jars. If desired, fresh 
slices of lemon may be added near the 
end of the cooking, as they look well 
in the preserve. 



Query 364. — Mrs. A. A. T., J^eve?'e, 
Mass. : ^^ Recipe for pumpkin preserve. 
The pumpkin is cut i?i small squares., 
and cooked u?itil vei-y tender. It has a 
sweety thick syrup.''' 

Pu77ipkin Preserve. 

Select a small variety known as 
" sweet pumpkins." Remove the rind 
and seeds and cut in inch cubes. 
Steam, or cook in water until tender 
but unbroken ; drain carefully ; weigh, 
and for each pound of pumpkin use a 
pound of sugar, two lemons, and two 
ounces of ginger root (green, if pos- 
sible). Tie the ginger in a bag, re- 
move the yellow skin from the lemons, 
discard the white beneath, cut the pulp 
in slices, and remove all the seeds. 
Cook the ginger, yellow skin and slices 
of lemon in water (a quart or more) 
until strongly flavored; add the sugar 
and boil to a syrup (water enough 
should be used so that the syrup will 
just cover the pumpkin); put in the 
pumpkin, and boil slowly until trans- 
parent, then store in jars, reduce the 
syrup until very thick, and pour over 



Query 365. — Mrs. J. R. C, Gas- 
tonville, Pa.: '•'■ Recipes for chicken pie, 
hrownbread with raisins., sugar., and 
yeast., and a beef puddijig served at the 
' Chesh i7'e Cheese., ' Fleet Street., Londo?i . ' ' 
Chicken Pie. 

Cut two chickens or one fowl into 
pieces as for serving; cover with boil- 
ing water and let simmer until tender. 
.Season with salt and pepper when half 
cooked. Line a three or four quart pan 
with a rich biscuit dough, having the 
dough about an inch thick ; put in the 
pieces of chicken, adding a few bits of 
butter, as also a part of the chicken 
liquor; wet the top edge of the crust, 
and fit on a cover of dough, with 
opening in the centre. Bake about 
forty minutes in a slow oven, adding, 
as needed, chicken liquor through the 
opening in the top. 

Biscuit Crust. 

Sift together two cups of sifted flour, 
one level teaspoonful of salt, and four 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; 
work in three level teaspoonfuls of 
shortening;. when fine and evenly dis- 
tributed wet with about a cup of milk 
to a dough ; toss on to a floured board, 
knead delicately, and roll out to the 
thickness required. This recipe needs 
be doubled at least once ; probably 
five cups of flour, and other ingredients 
accordingly, would be nearer the requi- 
site amount. The chicken should be 
cooled before using. 

Pastry Crust for Chicken Pie. 

If puff or plain paste is to be used 
for the crust, do not line the baking- 
dish. Put in the chicken with liquor, 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



43 



season, cover with the crust, and bake 
until the crust is done. 

Raisin Brownbread with Yeast. 
Stir one cup and a half of boiling 
water into one pint of yellow corn- 
meal; let stand ten minutes, "then add 
one cup of cold water (the full cup 
may not be needed), a yeastcake dis- 
solved in half a cup of lukewarm water, 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a cup of 
sugar, and one pint of rye meal ; beat 
well, adding a cup of raisins, and set 
to rise; when light beat again and 
turn into a buttered tin ; when light 
bake about two hours. We have been 
unable to secure the English recipe. 



Query 366. — Mrs. M. E. S., Brook- 
lyn^ N. v.: ^'' Recipe for popovers, other 
than the one giveti in answer to Query 
J 04. I have seen more successful ones 
than lean make with the recipe as given.^^ 
Fopovers. 

In making popovers much depends 
upon the oven, which should be very 
hot. If the batter be not perfectly 
baked, the popover will shrink when 
taken from the oven, and also be 
doughy inside. The recipe given is 
the usual formula. There are vari- 
ations, some of which may give results 
more satisfactory, namely : Put all the 
ingredients together into a bowl and 
beat until very light. Put a half-tea- 
spoonful of butter into each cup before 
pouring in the batter. Increase the 
number of eggs. Add one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of soda to the flour. It 
has also been suggested to us by a 
subscriber in Davenport, la., that chou 
paste, or cream-cake mixture, baked in 
hot cups, might produce very fine pop- 
overs. 



Batter Puddifig. 
Mix one-fourth a cup of flour with 
one-fourth a cup of milk and stir into 
three-fourths a cup of scalded milk ; 
stir, and cook until smooth; add two 
tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and su- 
gar, and when hot stir into the beaten 
yolks of three eggs ; then add the 
whites of two eggs beaten stiff. Bake 
in a buttered pudding-dish, standing in 
hot water, about thirty minutes. Serve 
with wine or hard sauce, or with 

STRAWBERRY SAUCE. 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; 
add one cup of sugar gradually, and 
then the beaten white of an egg very 
gradually, and one cup of strawberries, 
mashed. If the white of egg and straw- 
berries are not added very gradually, 
the sauce will present a curdled ap- 
pearance. It should be very light and 
fluffy. 



Query 367. — K. S. W., Wash ing- 
ton, D. C: ^^ Recipe for batter puddifig.''^ 



Query 368. — Miss I. F., Williams- 
town, Mass. : '•''In serving a me7iu of 
two courses at Sunday-night tea, should 
the hot dish a?td salad be served on the 
same or separate plates ? Kindly give a 
hot dish that could be served front a 
silver bakitig-dish. Would cream-cheese 
salad be appropriate, also chocolate or 
cocoa, preceded by little cakes and fruit, 
if the guests had dined at midday ? " 
Sunday-Night Tea. 
Shrimps, lobster, fish, chicken, or veal, 
in cream or bechamel sauce, covered 
with buttered crumbs, browned, may 
be served from the baking-dish ; a let- 
tuce or cress salad, with French dress- 
ing, might follow, then the little cakes, 
fruit and tea, or cakes and cocoa. 
Chocolate and cocoa are food as well 
as drink, and, when served alone with 
rolls or cakes, afford quite a substan- 
tial repast. We omit the cream cheese 
from the salad for the same reason. 



44 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



The menu is rather too heavy after a 
heart}- dinner. It is the third meal 
that kills. 



Query 369. — Mrs. A.^ Buffalo, K. 
Y. : " Kindly give the nattu of a good 
oven thermonuter : also recipes for a 
temperance drink made of fruit : dried 
cherries : and pickled blackberries. ' ' 
Oven Thennometer. 

D. G. Cooper, Pequabuck. Conn., 
makes a good oven thermometer that 
may be used with almost any stove that 
is not supplied with a thermometer. 
No doubt there are other thermometers 
just as reliable, but at this writing we 
cannot give addresses. 

Fruit Pu?ich. 

Grate a pineapple after removing the 
shell and '• eyes " : add a quart of 
water and cook fifteen minutes, then 
strain through a cheese-cloth, pressing 
out all of the juice; add another quart 
of water and a quart of sugar and boil 
ten minutes : add one cup of freshly 
made tea and. when cold, the juice of 
six oranges, six lemons, a pint of straw- 
berrj' or grape juice, and about live 
quarts of cold water. Add more water 
or more sugar, or, better still, syrup, 
according to individual taste. Straw- 
berries, mint leaves, or slices of banana 
may be added to the bowl with a piece 
of ice a short time before serving. 
Straivberry Le??wnade. 

Boil one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar nfteen minutes ; cool and add 
one pint of strawbern.* juice, the juice 
of three lemons, and one pint or more, 
as desired, of iced water. 

Dried Cherries. 

Stone and weigh the cherries, ar- 
range in earthen dishes in alternate 
layers, cherries and sugar, using half a 
pound of sugar to each pound of fruit ; 



let them stand over night, then boil 
about fifteen minutes, skimming care- 
fully. Strain out the cherries and 
spread them on plates to dr}^ in the 
sun or the warming-oven, turning fre- 
quently. When well dried, heat in the 
oven, stirring often until ver}^ hot. 
Store in paper sacks or in fruit jars, 
closely secured from the air and light. 
Put the syrup, while it is hot. in fruit 
jars, as in canning. 

Pickled Blackberries. 
Make a syrup of three pounds of 
sugar and one pint of vinegar : skim, 
and add five pounds of blackberries ; 
let simmer until quite thick. When 
nearly cooked, add cinnamon and 
cloves to suit the taste. 



Query 370. — A manfi-oin Dedham^ 
Mass., li' rites : •' Why ca?inot you ^ start 
a boovi ' for dry toast '/ Afi aunt brought 
the secret with her fro ?n New Hampshire^ 
but I regret to say that it died with her, 
as far as her relatives are concerned. 
Tlie bread is usually cut too thick, and 
ifistead of being toasted is slowly wa?'med 
through, with only a suspicion of brown. 
Properly prepared, it should be toasted 
71' h He you wait.''' 

Dry Toast. 

We should, indeed, be glad to " start 
a boom "' for dry toast, for the sake of 
the world in general, as well as for this 
man in particular. He is original, at 
least, for he distinctly says, -'the kind 
my aunt used to make." and does not 
even insinuate that his mother ever 
made toast. But. although our querist 
is a ??iaf2. we must affirm that he is 
mistaken in one particular. He says 
the bread is slowly warmed through, 
as though that were an offence. This 
is certainly contrar}* to our experience. 
Toast would not be so bad if it 7ie?'e 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



45 



slowly heated; generally, it is put di- 
rectly over a fierce flame and changed 
to carbon on the outside before the 
heat has begun to penetrate the slice. 
When toast is properly made, the 
moisture is slowly dried out, and then 
colored on the outside a golden brown. 
This requires constant attention ; the 
bread needs be turned constantly, lest 
it brown before the drying out is com- 
pleted. This process changes the 
starch to dextrose, and thus continues, 
outside the stomach, the digestion of 
the starch, begun in the first cooking 
of the bread. A bed of coals, a hinged 
toaster, and a slice of stale bread would 
seem to be the sine qua non for this 
operation ; but a well-toasted slice of 
bread is not the impossibility that the 
results would presuppose when gas and 
oil stoves are used for the purpose. 
The toaster needs be held slightly 
above the hot plate set over the flame, 
or else under the flame, in the lower 
oven. 



Query 3 7 i . — J/rj. E. L. C. JV., 
Si. Faid.^ Minn. : " Hoiu do you make 
bouillon, to be served cold during the 
summer months ? " 

Bouillon Served Cold. 

See recipe for bouillon in answer to 
Query 359. Use that recipe, omitting 
the bone, however, as a soup, to be 
served cold, should have no tendency 
to jelly. Cook at a temperature below 
the boiling-point, after it has once 
reached that point, to avoid dissolving 
the gelatine in the tissues of the meat. 
Diminish the quantity of water one 
pint. We do not understand the allu- 
sion to oil made in connection with the 
request for this recipe. 



Query 372. — E. H. J/., Portland, 
Ale.: ^'- Recipes for creme-de-me7ithe ice 



and meats cooked en casserole. Is the 
large casserole ever used for cooki/ig any- 
thing but meats ? " 

Creme-de-Menthc Ice. 

Boil four cups of water and one cup 
of sugar twenty minutes ; let cool, add 
one-third a cup of creme-de-menthe 
cordial, tint a delicate leaf- green, 
strain, and freeze as any ice. Serve in 
tiny glasses. — Miss Farmer. 

Beefsteak en Casserole. 

Saute five or six onions, in slices, in 
two or three tablespoonfuls of butter, 
until they are tinted yellow. Put the 
onions into a casserole, rinse out the 
frying-pan with hot water, add, and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat 
the frying-pan very hot, rub it over 
with beef fat, and in it sear two pounds 
of steak from the top of the round, 
cut in pieces for serving, first on one 
side and then on the other, keeping 
the pan very, hot ; put in the casse- 
role with a sprig of parsley, add hot 
water to cover the onions; cover, and 
let cook in a slow oven about two 
hours, or until tender. About fifteen 
minutes before serving, skim off fat 
that has cooked from the meat, add 
about two dozen potato balls (slices 
will do) that have been parboiled five 
minutes, and additional seasoning if 
needed. Serve from the casserole. 
There should not be a large quantity 
of gravy. 

Recipes for chicken, pigeons, and 
squabs en casserole were given in the 
December - January number. Sweet- 
breads may be cooked by any of these 
recipes. Curried chicken is particu- 
larly good served from a casserole. 

While the casserole is designed for 
articles that require long, slow cooking, 
there is no reason why macaroni, 
onions, or cauliflower in cream sauce, 
or almost anything desirable, might 



46 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



not be cooked and served from it after 
the first preliminary cooking has been 
done. 



Query 373. — A. L. D., South Bos- 
ton, Mass. : " Kindly give recipes for 
syrups for soda water ; also ftame a few 
articles of food that are suitable for a 
public speaker after an evening's lectu?'e.^^ 
Fruit Syrups. 

Heat and strain the fruit — strawber- 
ries, raspberries, currants, grapes, etc. — 
as in making jelly. To each pint of 
juice add a pint of sugar and the juice 
of one or two lemons ; let boil five or 
six minutes, skimming carefully, and 
store in sterilized jars as in canning. 
Food for Public Speaker. 

" What's one man's poison, signor, 
Is another man's meat or drink." 
So much depends upon what has 
been eaten during the day, how much 
time is to elapse before sleeping, and 
other circumstances, that only the most 
general hints can be given in reply to 
this query. Milk, heated to about j 60°' 
Fahr., and taken slowly from a spoon ; 
an egg beaten and carefully added to a 
cup of hot cereal coffee, with a piece 
of buttered rusk or breadsticks ; a cup 
of hot bouillon or consomme, with 
stale bread ; raw oysters, or an oyster 
stew, — all are appropriate. Where 
liquid food is not relished, two chops, 
or a bit of sirloin, carefully broiled, 
with a baked potato, cannot be im- 
proved upon. 



Query 374. — S. S., Syracuse, N. Y. : 
^''Kindly criticise our breakfast menu, 
which never vai'ies. (Family of two, 7iot 
engaged in active labor.) Rolled oats, 
bread, cookies, strong coffee with crea7n.^^ 
Bi'eakfast Menu. 

We cannot criticise this menu intel- 



ligently without knowing the menus for 
the rest of the day, and the quantity 
of each article actually eaten. As it 
is, alone, we think it deficient in pro- 
teid ; in other words, it provides starch 
and sugar in excess. 



Query 375. — Mrs. E. W. S., Kan- 
sas City, Mo. : " Suggest so?ne dishes 
suitable for a ' box lunch,^ so that o?ie 
may secu?'e variety.''^ 

Dishes for a Box Luncheon. 

Cup of cold baked beans, with to- 
mato catsup, new beans with French 
dressing, other cold cooked vegetables 
— potatoes, string beans, cauliflower, 
asparagus, or spinach — may be mixed 
with French dressing and carried in 
an earthen cup covered with parafline 
paper. Any of the above will be 
found appetizing with a bread - and - 
butter sandwich, and an ^gg that has 
been cooked twenty minutes in water 
below the boiling-point. Baked cup 
custard, baked tapioca custard, korn- 
let custard, tomato custard, egg junket, 
cornstarch, blanc - mange, with fruit 
jelly, and sliced pineapple, sugared, 
with cold meats sliced thin, afford quite 
a varied list from which to choose. 



Query 376. — Mrs. F. E. A., Den- 
ver, Col. : " What gauffre iron do you 
consider the best 1 Recipes for gauffres 
that are soft and creamy inside ; cocoanut 
cones : cherry water ice and cherry mousse 
made from cherries put up pound for 
pound, and from fresh cherries. Also 
kindly tell how the French cook spinach.''^ 
Gauffre Irons. 

The English and French gauffre 
irons are heavy to handle ; they re- 
semble a pair of tongs somewhat and 
cost about $2.50 each. Gauffre irons 
are made, in this country, at Erie, Pa., 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



47 



or Buffalo, N. Y., and cost $i.io at 
retail. These are made on the same 
plan as the waffle iron and appear less 
awkward to handle than the imported 
irons. Not more than two cakes can 
be baked at once. The instant they 
are baked and removed from the iron, 
they are rolled about a wooden pin. 
When cold and ready to serve the 
centre is filled with whipped cream. 
With the exception of the figures upon 
the outside, similar cakes may be 
baked upon an inverted tin ; the mix- 
ture is made stiff enough to spread 
upon the buttered tin. See almond 
wafers, page 308, preceding number. 
Cocoamit Cones. 

Cook a pound of fresh cocoanut, 
grated, and three-fourths a pound of 
sugar in a double boiler, until the mix- 
ture is rather stiff and clings to the 
spoon. Add the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry, and cook until well mixed 
and sticky to the touch. Spread in a 
pan rinsed with cold water, cover with 
a wet paper, and chill on ice. Dip the 
hands in cold water and shape into 
balls. Bake twenty minutes in a slow 
oven on a waxed baking-sheet. 
Cherry Mousse with Presej-^'ed Cherries. 

Drain the cherries from the syrup; 
cook a cup of the syrup until it 
"threads," then beat gradually into 
the stiffly-beaten whites of two eggs, 
beating constantly. Set the dish in 
ice water and beat occasionally until 
very cold ; add the juice of half a 
lemon and a cup of the cherries cut in 
halves, then fold in a pint of cream 
beaten solid. Turn into a chilled 
mould and let stand two or more hours 
packed in equal parts of ice and salt. 
When the mousse is turned from the 
mould, surround with cherries and 
syrup. 



With fresh cherries, cook a cup of 
cherries, stoned, with a cup of sugar 
and half a cup of cherry juice or water, 
until the cherries are tender, then skim 
out the cherries and cook the syrup 
as before. 

Cherry Water Ice. 

Dilute the syrup with water, until it 
is sweet as desired ; add the juice of 
a lemon to each pint of liquid ; when 
half frozen, stir in the cherries cut in 
halves. A recipe with fresh cherries is 
given on page 6. 

French Method of Cooking Spinach. 

The French stew spinach in a little 
milk or stock, or in a little water to 
which a piece of butter has been added. 
The broth is served with the spinach. 
It is needless to add that spinach needs 
be thoroughly washed. 



Query 377. — Mrs. G. F. P., Arling- 
ton, Mass. : " Ki?idly give recipes for 
preserving rhubarb and strawberries, 
and for making strawberry jam as it is 
done if I FnglandJ^ 

Strawberry fam. 

Allow three-fourth a pound of sugar 
to each pound of fruit. Put the fruit 
into the preserving-pan and on the hot 
plate, sprinkle over a little sugar. As 
the fruit juices keep adding sugar, and, 
when it is all dissolved, bring to the 
boil, and boil quickly for about twenty 
minutes, keeping it stirred and skim- 
med. Stir carefully, not to break the 
strawberries. If it does not " set " at 
the end of twenty minutes, cook longer. 
— Mary Harrison. 

To Preserve Strawberries Whole. 

Select and set aside the largest 
and most perfect berries. Mash the 
others and boil for a quarter of an hour 
without water, then strain through a 
jelly bag. Allow a pound of sugar to 



4S 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



a quart of strawberry juice. Make 
a syrup with a pint of water to each 
two pounds of sugar, and skim thor- 
oughly. When the scum ceases to rise, 
pour in the juice of the berries and 
boil from five to fifteen minutes, or 
until the syrup will hang in drops from 
the spoon. Pour the syrup into glass 
jars, and, lifting the whole berries with 
a spoon, put in as many as the S}Tup 
will cover \vithout crowding. When 
perfectly cold, cover with paraffine or 
paper dipped in brandy. — New Cyclo- 
pedia of Cookery. 

Preser7'ed Rhubarb. 

To each pound of rhubarb allow 
three-fourths a pound of sugar. Make 
a syrup with the sugar and enough 
water to keep from burning ; add the 
rhubarb and cook until tender, keeping 
the pieces as whole as possible ; skim 
out and boil the syrup until thick, re- 
heat the rhubarb and store in jars. 

At the present time these rich pre- 
serves are less often made than for- 
merly. Rhubarb cut the height of the 
jars is packed in cans. The can tilled 
with cold water is set into a boiler on a 
shelf, the can cover is loosely adjusted, 
and the cover of the boiler is put 
in place : cold water is now poured 
around the jars and the rhubarb cooked 
half an hour after boiling begins. Then 
the covers are set in place. 



Query 37S.— J/;-.\ C F. S., JVil- 
liamsto7i'n, Mass. : '^Recipes for chili 
sauce and spiced curra?its.^' 
Chili Sauce. 

Remove the skins from one hundred 
ripe tomatoes ; add twent}' - four pep- 
pers chopped tine, eighteen large white 
onions chopped line, one pound of 



brown sugar, nine kitchenspoonfuls of 
salt, eighteen level teaspoonfuls. each, 
of allspice, ginger, and cloves, and one 
gallon of vinegar; boil gently, stirring 
often, one hour. Strain, and boil 
again, if not of sufficient consistency. 
Set aside in closely corked bottles, or 
in fruit jars tightly closed. — Chef Sil- 
lerbrand. (See also page 37.) 



Query 379.— J//-.>\ E. S. P., Fort- 
land^ Me.: "■ Recipe for E?iglish beef 
soup, as it is served at the South Termi- 
ticil Station, Boston. The soup is rich 
and thick^ and contains s?nall pieces of 
beef, barley^ etc.^' 

English Beef Soup. 

The chefs at this restaurant are 
Italians, from which race the French 
learned cookery. Joseph Batta. the 
chef w^ho superintends the preparation 
of the soups at this restaurant, has been 
noted for years for his skill in this 
branch of cookery, both in Italy and 
in tliis country. Mr. Batta has kindly 
given us his formula for the soup, but, 
like all foreign chefs, he seasons by 
taste, and it may require many trials 
before the proportions of the different 
tiavoring ingredients can be adjusted 
to secure the indescribably agreeable 
combination of this particular English 
beef soup. 

Cut tender beef into small squares, 
and braise, until tender, with onions, 
celery, and leeks, and a little stock ; 
thicken with flour, and add to it a 
sufficient quantity of strong beef stock. 
To complete, add cooked barley and 
carrot, the carrot cut in small lozenze- 
shaped pieces. Flavor to taste with 
sherry wine, tomato catsup, and Wor- 
cestershire sauce. /. J/. H. 




c c 



O •£ 



-H .fe 



en ^ 
.- (u 



THE 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. V. 



AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER, 1900. 



No. 2, 



THE REFRIGERATOR THAT FAILED, AND WHY. 

By Mrs. H. M. Plunkett. 



A GENTLEMAN in Western Massa- 
chusetts, who had a large family, and 
was accustomed to provide on a liberal 
scale, and who was, withal, fond of 
well " ripened " meats, built a refriger- 
ator, modelled, on a small scale, after 
the " cold storage " of a large meat 
dealer's establishment; so it was called 
an ice-room. At one end was a large 
apartment for the ice. This, of course, 
had free communication with the resi- 
due, which was fitted with shelves on 
the sides for pans, bottles, etc., and with 
hooks overhead. At first all his epi- 
curean dreams seemed in the way of 
realization ; but it was not long before 
the meat, if kept over a day or two, 
had a distinctly "tainted" flavor, and 
the milk soured as rapidly as it had 
done on the open pantry shelves. 

What was the matter ? Long search- 
ing failed to reveal it, till a treatise on 
bacteriology fell into the hands of the 
mistress of the mansion. She studied 
that, and then studied her ice-room. 
The shelves had been constructed with 
open spaces left between individual 
slats, to promote the circulation of 
cold air, but the last slat at the back 
had been placed close to the wall; and 



sometimes a steak, or chops, on a plat- 
ter, would shed a trifle of Uquid that 
would insinuate itself behind this last 
slat, and doubtless an occasional drop 
of milk secreted itself there also. Now 
and then a drop or two of blood would 
trickle from the large joints of beef, 
or the quarters of lamb, hung on the 
hooks; and, though the floor was tight 
when laid, in time cracks appeared, 
which, though very small, were still 
wide enough to accommodate many 
drops of putrescible fluid. The lady's 
Goddess of the Kitchen was a perfect 
demon of neatness, who opined that a 
sufficient amount of sapolio and elbow 
grease would remedy any household 
defect; and she scrubbed those shelves 
and that floor with a zeal and diligence 
only equalled by the lack of intelli- 
gence she displayed. This was in the 
early days of bacteriology, before the 
true methods of conquering microbes 
had been discovered. Though hot 
water was poured over the shelves, — 
as the mistress recalled that "scald- 
ing" was the sheet-anchor of the old- 
fashioned dairies before the day of 
glass pans, or those made of earthen- 
ware, had arrived, — the hot water 



52 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



failed ; for it was not hot enough when 
it got back to the slat and the wall, and 
there is a great power in the pores of 
wood to protect and aid in perpetuat- 
ing microbes. But, to complete a long 
story, let it be said that the repeated 
scrubbings failed to render the tainting 
agent powerless ; and eventually the 
ice-room was demolished, and the pro- 
prietor fell back on the (then) most 
approved type of portable refrigera- 
tor. 

How is this failure to be explained ? 
In one word, — bacteria. Putrefactive 
bacteria were the unconquerable agents 
of the trouble ; for the hot water was 
less than at the temperature of 212° 
when it reached the bacteria lodged 
in the crevices, and there are some 
kinds of bacteria that resist a tempera- 
ture of 242°. And these tiny creatures 
multiply so rapidly that if a vat with 
a surface of a square yard, and con- 
taining a putrescible liquid, is inocu- 
lated with an invisible germ or microbe, 
it will be covered in twenty- four hours 
with a uniform velvety vail; for the 
little germ divided into two, then each 
of these again divided, it is estimated 
that in twenty-four hours the original 
invisible bacteria would have 16,500,- 
000 descendants ; and, as most of the 
bacteria produce spores, or seeds, that 
resist the action of boiling water for 
hours, it is not hard to see how putre- 
factive bacteria continued to exist, and 
resumed their depredations whenever 
a new joint was introduced to the ice- 
room. 

The bacteria that produce the sour- 
ing of milk are no less industrious and 
no less ubiquitous. One should read 
Professor Conn's " Story of Germ 
Life" to learn the difficulty attending 
the attempt to obtain perfectly germ- 



free milk for experiments; and those 
only who have made the experiments 
realize how very difficult it is to obtain 
*' sterile " materials to work with in the 
laboratory. 

Mr. Tyndall had filled several flasks 
with a meat infusion, and boiled them 
till he was sure all organic life was 
extinct; the necks of the flasks were 
hermetically sealed while boiling, and 
all were hung up carefully and se- 
curely. Presently one of the flasks be- 
came cloudy, and showed signs of bac- 
terial life. Microscopical examination 
showed a hairlike crack in the neck 
of the tube, one or more of the omni- 
present microbes of the atmosphere 
had found entrance through the open- 
ing, but all the other tubes remained 
perfectly transparent for more than a 
year, when they were purposely opened 
to show the effect of opening them 
under different circumstances. 

Now, where is the practical applica- 
tion of the above to the daily amelio- 
ration of household conditions ? It 
teaches the extreme care needed in 
keeping the refrigerator free from 
germs. There are ponderous and 
costly refrigerators now made, whose 
compartments are of porcelain, or 
lined with glass ; but the million will 
not be able to command them, and 
many housewives fancy that the ice 
kills germs. Far from it. There are 
many varieties that resist a freezing 
temperature for days, and the lady of 
the household herself needs to super- 
intend the weekly scalding of her re- 
frigerator with a great deal of scalding 
water, till it is rid of every germ, or 
spore of a germ ; for of course it is 
indisputable that many have entered 
in company with the various contents. 
Intelligent action is what is wanted. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



53 



THE PINEHURST TEA GARDENS NEAR SUMMER- 

VILLE, S. C. 

By Charles U. Shepard. 

( The illustrations in this paper were reprodticed from Report 6i, on Tea Culture in South 
Carolina, by the kind permission of the United States Departtnent of Agriculture.) 



The Pinehurst tea estate is prob- 
ably the only place in the Western 
Hemisphere where commercial tea is 
grown. Originally introduced at the 
beginning of the past century, and im- 
ported quite freely fifty years ago, it 
was well known that the tea plant 
{Camellia thea) would thrive under the 
local climatic conditions, and that the 
tea made therefrom possessed excel- 
lent cup qualities, if somewhat weak, 
possibly owing to faults in cultivation 
and curing. 

It was necessary to conduct ex- 
periments on a sufficiently large scale 
to determine whether the product of 
American tea gardens might find gen- 
eral favor among tea drinkers, and 
whether the margin between the cost 
of production and selling price should 
promise an adequate profit on which 
to base a remunerative industry. 

The Pinehurst experiments, begun 
ten years ago on a few acres, and by 
private means, have been gradually ex- 
tended, until now, with the generous 
assistance of the United States De- 
partment of Agriculture, and under the 
welcome auspices of ^^the Secretary of 
Agriculture, Hon. James Wilson, they 
embrace about sixty acres. The gar- 
dens contain plants grown from the 
seed of many oriental lands, besides 
those from the thoroughly acclimated 
tea groves, which sprang from the seed, 
imported by the United States Govern- 
ment in the " fifties." and sown in the 



South Atlantic and Gulf States. They 
were placed under as different condi- 
tions of location and soil as possible, 
the prime object being to determine, 
from many experiments, what sort of 
tea should prove the most remunera- 
tive, and the most favorable conditions 
of cultivation and manufacture. 

It was expected, from the multiform 
character of the work, that disappoint- 
ment and pecuniary loss might ensue 
in many instances; but, with the ex- 
ception of gardens planted with too 
tropical seed, the results have been 
generally satisfactory ; while conditions 
and methods have been ascertained 
under which the profitable cultivation 
of tea in the Southern States may be 
regarded as having been demonstrated. 
These are, fiat and rich land, with 
natural subsoil drainage, and, if pos- 
sible, irrigation by gravity, to offset the 
great difference between the local rain- 
fall in the cropping season (30 inches) 
and that of favored Asiatic countries 
(60 to 100 inches or more). Under 
these conditions, with an abundant 
supply of cheap labor, and by adapting 
the pruning of the bushes to the cli- 
matic demands, but especially under the 
beneficent assistance of a protective 
duty, pure commercial tea may be prof- 
itably raised in the Southern States, 
thereby supplying an easy and health- 
ful livelihood to idle thousands, and 
imparting a value to immense tracts 
of now waste lands. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



55 



It is extremely unlikely that the 
present duty (of ten cents per pound) 
on tea will be repealed, as every civil- 
ized nation imposes from eight to forty 
cents per pound on this imported com- 
modity, even free-trade Great Britain 
charging a duty of eight cents per pound 
on the product of her own colonies. 

The output of the Pinehurst gardens 
has gradually increased from a few 
hundred pounds per annum to towards 
four thousand pounds ; and it may 
reach ten thousand pounds within a 
few years. The demand for it has 
easily kept pace with the supply, in 
spite of its peculiar taste. But with- 
out a characteristic flavor American 
tea can have no special advantage. 

The visitor to Pinehurst may see 
thrifty gardens of tea from many climes, 
growing under many conditions, and 
in some instances, with the assistance 
of irrigation, a tea factory equipped 



with the requisite apparatus for the 
manufacture of black and green teas, 
embracing the modern machinery which 
has been substituted for manual labor 
in the curing of black tea ; a well- 
trained body of colored children who 
pluck the tea leaves, and the school 
where they receive, gratuitously, a com- 
mon education at such seasons as they 
are not occupied in field work. 

The Pinehurst park and flower gar- 
dens also afford much pleasure to visit- 
ors. They are open on all days except 
Sundays and national holidays. During 
the winter and early spring, " tea talks " 
are given once a week for the instruc- 
tion and entertainment of visitors, who 
are also served with a cup of the Amer- 
ican-grown beverage. 

Tea plucking and manufacture con- 
tinue with slight interruptions from 
the beginning of May to the end of 
September. 




TEA PICKERS AT SCHOOL. 



56 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



THE PROPHET, AND MORE OF HIS METHODS, 

By Helen Campbell. 



" Yes," said the mistress of the 
house, "he is a delightful guest, cer- 
tainly ; in fact, the only one I ever had 
who entertained himself in just the 
same way. He has a simply impas- 
sioned enthusiasm for the meat-grinder, 
and I dare not leave him alone with it, 
lest, when the storeroom supplies fail, 
he try it on the kindling-wood ! 'Why 
is it always the Saxon who invents a 
thing so simple ?' He says, ' Why not 
the Asiatic ? ' and I answer that the 
Anglo-Saxon are the only people on the 
face of the earth who have a national 
standard of comfort and make that the 
test of what they call civilization." 

"But it is not, or only in a degree," 
said the Prophet, who had come in 
softly, as was his wont, and settled 
down with the family cat in the big chair 
by the south window, both of them, as 
it were, purring in concert. The 
Prophet's eyes were bright, his color 
high. He looked as if he had come in 
from the open country, — a high hill it 
might be, — on which the sun shone, 
and where free winds, with no taint of 
smelter smoke in their breath, had 
blown upon him. This was his usual 
expression. In actual fact, he had 
come from the kitchen, but out-of-doors 
had preceded it, while a transcendental 
lecture would, in the course of a few 
hours, be the next thing in order, pre- 
ceded and followed by such cooking 
as his fancy dictated. 

"There are differences no less 
strange between Saxon and Latin," 
the Prophet pursued. " For the Latin 
race, the social instinct is the ruling 



one; and comfort, as you call it, is to 
them always secondary, well as they 
love luxury. But the Latins are an 
abstemious people, save the degenerate 
Parisian, with his thousand sauces and 
no religion. That had to be, to coun- 
teract the Saxon's hundred religions 
and only one gravy (though Brillat- 
Savarin said that of America, which is, 
after all, the same as England). But 
listen to a paragraph from the new 
book on the table. ' The desire for 
bodily comfort is the paramount desire 
that has made the Saxon's civiliza- 
tion. He is willing to do the hardest 
work to secure it. He does not fail to 
keep his eye on it, even when his love 
of adventure takes him quite out of 
the Unes within which comfort is 
usually sought. We know that much 
of his sturdy independence has been 
in the interest of^comfort, and that he 
was, at times in his history, willing 
that others should rule, provided he 
were let alone in his private capacity, 
there being no comfort equal to that ; 
but that her always asserted himself 
with unequivocal vigor, when there was 
danger of encroachment on his right to 
be let alone. In fine, we know that 
this comfort which he wants, and has 
learned so excellently to supply him- 
self withal, is what everybody, in some 
measure, now wants ; so that he is, 
both in the main motive of his eco- 
nomic life, and in the various ways in 
•which he attains to its fulfilment, rep- 
resentative of the strongest present 
drift of the world.' " 

" There is meat for discussion," said 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



57 



the Prophet, laying down the book, but 
keeping his finger between the leaves. 
" The Latin, from the Frenchman on, 
wants to secure mental ease through 
the play of all the social activities of 
man. The Anglo-Saxon wants com- 
fort for the body. That is why he 
counts the Frenchman shallow. He 
would eat his dinner in silence, to taste 
all flavor, with no waste of words to 
interrupt the process. But this is 
aside, save that it is all to be first 
simplified at many points, then the two 
principles are to be made to .combine. 
It is union, always union, that we seek, 
and it is hard to see it put away in 
places where it might be. In cooking 
now — " 

" I thought it would get back to 
that," said the mistress, with a little 
laugh. 

"Why not, since cooking is one 
secret of true civilization ? " returned 
the Prophet seriously. " So long as 
gross feeding is in order, gross think- 
ing goes on. But do as I say to you. 
Study flavor and savor and the sim- 
plest thing shall take on character and 
build into these bodies forces unknown 
to the scorner of such law. To-day, 
now, I grind and make ready a loaf 
that is of finer force than a whole sir- 
loin ; that can give strength, yet leave 
the brain clear. I go now to baste it 
or to show Katrine how that shall be 
done, and then I return for this dis- 
cussion. This is life, — to do the deed 
and then speak the word that expounds 
its meaning." 

" This is delicious," said the min- 
ister's wife, who had dropped in for an 
informal lunch, much the custom of 
the house, and, since the Prophet's 
coming, in the nature of an equally in- 
formal cooking lesson. " We can fol- 
low, I suppose." 



" Most certainly," said the mistress. 
" He seems to take it for granted, and 
Katrine is his devoted slave, and allows 
him liberties I have never dared to 
take." 

We followed. The Prophet knelt 
before the open oven, and something 
of a golden brown just beginning to 
take on a deeper color disclosed itself. 
The Prophet basted it with as tender 
care as a chef would bestow upon a 
pair of canvas-backs, then closed the 
door, and stirred something in a sauce- 
pan. 

"This that simmers so softly and 
may now simmer no more is hot 
punch for this most raw and dismal 
day of gloom and chill," he said. "And 
now I will tell you how both are made 
if you will, since so it is that you 
will have me do every time I cook. 
This is ' nut loaf ' that I baste, but 
not such nut loaf as I find in a vege- 
tarian cook-book. No : this has life. 
You shall see. How do I make it ? 
There is first the loaf of white bread, 
sweet and a little stale, and I crumble 
all that is inside and cut small all the 
crust with a knife. There must be three 
pints of crumbs. Then in the warm 
oven — never hot — they dry for two 
hours in a long pan which you call drip- 
ping pan (granite is best, because it is 
smooth and holds no flavor of the last 
dish, as iron will). They shall be 
stirred. They shall not be browned, 
and so comes a flavor no other way 
can give. 

" Now then, they are dry, and I put 
with them one teaspoonful of salt, a 
tablespoonful of minced parsley, one 
of dried sage leaves crumbled fine be- 
tween the fingers before measuring, 
half a teaspoonful of black pepper, 
and quarter a saltspoonful of cayenne, 
half a saltspoonful of summer savory. 



58 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



one pint of ground celery (or it may be 
cut fine only), one sour apple in thin 
JDits. Now we mince fine one good 
onion of medium size, and fry it five 
minutes on omelet pan with a third 
of a pound of good butter. All this 
now we pour over the crumbs and stir 
till all are coated. 

" Now it is to beat three eggs and 
put in a pint of milk, and all on the 
crumbs and put aside to soak ; while 
once more the grinder, and three cups 
of nut meats, — pecans, filberts, and 
Brazil nuts. And these stir into the 
crumbs, all swelled and waiting, keep- 
ing out one tablespoonful for sauce. 
And then we shape it all in an oblong 
loaf four inches wide, three inches 
thick or more, and put it on a tin 
sheet, with little holes, that goes in the 
roasting-pan, but first with butter on 
it. Into a rather slow oven it goes, 
with an hour and a half to bake and to 
be basted with a little hot water and 
melted butter. And now, when it is 
brown and slipped on the hot platter 
that waits, comes the sauce. This is 
fine. 

"Melt in your smooth omelet -pan 
three tablespoonfuls of butter and put 
in a teaspoonful of minced onion and 
half a sour apple in thin bits. Now 
put in two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
cook to a clear brown ; pour to it a 
pint of hot milk, always very slowly 
and with a stir, and then a cup of hot 
water to the pan where the loaf baked, 
and let all boil well and stir from the 
bottom, unless it be too brown. The 
tablespoonful of ground nuts goes to 
this, one of lemon juice, and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. It must be thick 
as thick cream; and on the loaf are 
slices of orange, one for each eater, 
and pretty parsley all about; and you 



shall see how it is cut and served. 
Troublesome, did some one say ? But 
never so much as that passion of yours, 
croquettes, though indeed this too can 
be croquette if you will fry." 

As the Prophet talked the sauce 
had come into being, Katrine looking 
on with absorbed attention. "Thus 
be it," he said, waving his hands over 
the dish as if in blessing, and we fol- 
lowed it and him to the dining-room, 
the punch in the rear borne by the 
daughter of the house, who examined 
it as she went. 

The pretty table waited, its vase of 
white carnations in the centre, and the 
Prophet gazed silently on the work of 
his hands and sighed as he tasted his 
own portion, a sigh of deep content. 

" That truly is food," he said, and 
proceeded to make it his own. 

"But the punch — the punch," he 
said, as he put down his glass; "that 
I had forgotten to tell, yet all in it 
is the corrective of this, perhaps, too 
rich food for the little child. Only 
a small piece for him ; but for people, 
all they wish. Now, in the punch " 
— the Prophet pronounced it " poonch " 
— "there is first a quart of grape juice, 
and always of dark grapes, if maybe, 
because they have drunk most sun. 
Heat it in double boiler and put in it 
juice of four lemons ; four dried spear- 
mint leaves rubbed fine in fingers and 
one pound of sugar. To this put four 
quarts of hot water, or three if you 
will, have it very strong. Some say 
one teaspoonful of vanilla, but that is 
as each shall choose. But in every 
glass one dust of powdered cinnamon, 
and the hot juice from hot bowl on it. 
There you have what is food and drink 
in one, good for child as man, and 
that is not to be said of your tea and 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



59 



your coffee. There are many punches 
that should be used instead of tea; 
seven I have always in my mind, and 
make as I feel ; and some day I will 
tell you every one, but not unless I 
make them. But each one has its own 
power, and may go with its own dish, 
for corrective, or to balance it, it were 
better to say ; and when you know all 
these punches and all the dishes that 
are with them, you begin to know some 
things that are of real civilization, 
because, as you eat these foods, — yes, 
and drink them, — come clearer brain 
and more power to judge. For there 



are subtle things in these combinations. 
It is not for nothing I study them and 
test what is good and what may be 
changed, till now there is not one that 
has not its own meaning — yes, reason 
— from the Highest. Is not all food of 
Him 1 But men have bejuggled it 
till its life is gone, and then know not 
what herb of the field is for healing 
and what for destruction. As they 
will handle, it is all destruction, and 
most so, I think, in case of this Anglo- 
Saxon, of whom we have begun to talk, 
but whose head is thick and who cares 
not much to learn." 



THE MISSION OF A ROSE GERANIUM. 

By Eleanor M. Lucas. 

*' Give fools their gold, and knaves their power ; 

Let fortune's bubbles rise and fall ; 
. Who sows a field, or trains a flower, 

Or plants a tree, is more than all." 



Pleasant, and, it may be, tender, 
memories always linger in a spray of 
rose-scented geranium ; the soft repose 
of its green foliage, and the indescrib- 
able spicy fragrance, sweeter than "the 
balm of a thousand flowers," have ever 
dignified, and will forever dignify, its 
individuality. The sentiment ascribed 
to the rose geranium, in the symbolical 
language of flowers, is comfort; and its 
perfumed breath seems to tell us of re- 
newed life. It strengthens hope, stim- 
ulates our lagging spirits, and " invites 
gracious thoughts without any jarring 
note," like the perfume of Marget's 
garden (in " Beside the Bonnie Brier 
Bush "), with its sweet-scented wall- 
flowers, and thyme, and moss roses. 
In all the dear old-fashioned gardens 



we read of, sweet-scented plants have 
an important place; and not only in 
stories, but in history, do we see the 
power of spicy fragrance. The rose 
geranium is a privileged character; its 
perfume is always exquisite and healthy; 
it never overpowers one, like a mag- 
nolia, a tube-rose, or acacia bloom. A 
single plant of the red-flowering variety, 
on a sunlit shelf, is a window garden 
by itself ; it will perfume a room deli- 
cately. Every time you brush its odor- 
ous leaf its waves of incense will greet 
you with a new delight. If the plant 
never blossomed, it would still sweeten 
our lives ; but, when it breaks out into 
a mass of bloom, each terminal cluster 
a tuft of unclouded crimson, which, 
though exceedingly gay, is yet delicate 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



and refined, owing to the thick, green 
foliage that makes a rich setting close 
about the flowers, it is an object to 
gladden any mortal's eyes, and bring 
comfort. Once established, it advances 
in queenly growth. Its subsequent 
culture is a matter of ease, although 
it resents shade, and poor soil, and 
loves the sunshine. 

For cut-flower work nothing excels 
its green foliage, unless it be the fern, 
and that wilts so quickly. One can 
use a single velvety leaf, or a spray, 
with equal advantage. A modest table 
can be transformed to one of magical 
beauty, by the green and lively rose- 
colored clusters. This effect is best 
obtained by arranging them in low 
bowls ; an egg-shell china bowl, with a 
few loose sprays of the richly colored 
blossoms, each cluster with a foil and 
setting of green foliage, and, as Mary 
Wilkins says, '* Like all simple things, 
it is, in and of itself, a poem." And 
dainty effects are to be got by using 
the green foliage without a trace of a 
flower. A gaily embroidered cloth for 
the centre of the table, — one with a 
wreath of cherry-red roses or glowing 
tulips, — and in its centre a bowl of the 
sweet leaves, arranged with airy light- 
ness, — a delightful study in living green. 
Avoid a crowded mass ; some crum- 
pled tissue paper would do as well. 
Or encircle a round table mirror with 
a thick wreath of green sprays ; it will 
retain its freshness and beauty for 
hours, and, even when past its prime, 
its perfume will linger, and continue 
even after the death of the plant. The 
leaves, if dried carefully in a cool room, 
and lightly dropped into any little dish, 
and sprinkled wdth alcohol, have the 
power to please still by their odor. 

Rose flavor is given to butter by 



putting the little prints of butter, each 
wrapped in cheesecloth, into a light 
porcelain dish, on a bed of rose-scented 
geranium leaves. Cover with another 
layer of leaves, put on the lid, and 
allow to stand over night. This butter 
is much in demand for sandwiches at 
teas and receptions. 

The well-dried leaves are equal to « 
rose leaves for filling cushions and 
sachet bags. In fact, much of the rose 
water and perfume that is sold is from 
the common rose geranium. It is used 
extensively as a legitimate perfumery 
material, agreeable as, if not equal to, 
true oil of roses. 

Cushions scented with dried gera 
nium leaves are very grateful to inva- 
lids, as the faintest touch of some really 
natural scent is delicious — better far 
than manufactured sachet powders, 
v;hich, as a rule, contain musk in some 
form, of all odors the most intolerable 
to those who do not use it. Many 
persons are inconvenienced by it to 
such a degree that they cannot stay 
in a room containing the minutest quan- 
tity of it. It is also the odor which 
adheres the longest. A garment upon 
which musk has been thrown will 
smell of it at the end of two years, 
even though it may have been exposed 
to the open air frequently ; and in 
apartments it will endure forever, al- 
most. The Empress Josephine was 
very fond of perfumes, and, above all, 
of musk. Her dressing-room at Mal- 
maison was filled with it. Twenty-five 
years after her death the odor of the 
empress' musk remained, in spite of 
scrubbing, paint, and time. 

The dried leaves of rose geranium, 
sewn up in little Swiss muslin tags, 
and fastened to the lining of a gown, 
will communicate a dainty perfume; 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



6l 



and bags of thin silk, or some sheer 
material, padded with the dried leaves, 
are delightful devices for scenting lin- 
gerie, and cause the attire of her who 
uses them to exhale an au7'a of refined 
allurement. No woman of real refine- 
ment will use any but very delicate 
perfumes at her toilet, and she must 
choose a certain perfume, and it will 
then become associated with her per- 
sonality. If it be rose, then with rose 
is scented the meal-bag used in her 
morning bath ; the cosmetics by which 
her complexion is enhanced, her toilet 
water, and the sachets secreted some- 
where about her attire, — all are rose- 
scented, and geranium leaves afford 
an excellent substitute for rose water 
and perfume. 

Let the fresh or dried leaves soak 
in the water jug; they not only soften, 
but tonify and freshen the complexion, 
keeping the flesh healthy and firm. 
An excellent rose-water for immediate 
use can be made by steeping the fresh 
leaves in hot water for one hour, then 
straining off the clear liquid. A cup 
of leaves, packed measure, to a pint of 
water, is sufficient. A tablespoonful 
of this in a pint of water is pleasant 
for a wash. 

But, when the warm spring weather 
comes, our plant must go out of doors. 
So prune it severely ; cut every branch 
back to within two eyes of the point 
this branch starts from. Then turn 
it out of the pot, prune the roots, and 
repot in rich soil. As the roots fill 
the pot, repot it. Liberal supplies of 
liquid manure, or other plant food, and 
moisture, with plenty of sun all sum- 
mer, and an occasional pinching back 
of the branches, will ensure a graceful, 
blooming plant for the winter window 
garden. To grow the plant in pyram- 



idal form, trim away all but the cen- 
tral shoot. Tie this firmly to a slender 
stake, and as soon as it reaches the 
required height the terminal shoot is 
pinched off. This causes it to throw out 
side shoots, which should be pinched 
back as soon as they reach the required 
length. The lower branches are to be 
left long, so that the plant will be 
broad at the base, but tapering very 
gradually to a point, making a most 
graceful tree. 

All the little twigs that were pruned 
away will make new plants, so be care- 
ful to root them in moist sand, first 
cutting off all the leaves, which lay 
aside. The little plants, when well- 
rooted and clothed in a delicate, velvety 
verdure, are just wha,t we need to send 
to some " shut-in " friend, or to glad- 
den some heart who lives in a flower- 
less home. The little plant may cheer 
some toil-worn or sick person, and dif- 
fuse grace and beauty into lines that, 
before its advent, were sad and cheer- 
less. 

" For he who blesses most is blest ; 

And God and man shall own his worth 
Who toils to leave, as his bequest, 
An added beauty to the earth." 

The little roots of the plant are well 
wrapped in damp moss, then more 
snugly tucked about with waxed paper, 
and the whole is packed securely in a 
strong pasteboard or light wooden box, 
large enough to hold it without bruising 
throughout the journey in the mail- 
bag. When the box is opened the 
rose geranium's own fragrance will not 
be more sweet than the " soft south 
wind of memory " wafting over the 
receiver's heart. 

Now let us go back to the leaves 
we cut off. These find many a fragrant 
mission. Because rose leaves are not 



62 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



to be had, we are not debarred from 
enjoying a jar of fragrant compound 
to bring the perfume of the breath of 
nature into our homes. Take a quart 
of the rose-geranium leaves and place 
in a large china bowl, with salt between 
each layer of leaves (half a cup of salt 
to a quart of the leaves). Let it remain 
five days, stirring and turning each 
day, and cover the bowl closely. They 
should then appear moist ; add two 
ounces of coarsely powdered allspice 
and an ounce of bruised stick cinna- 
mon. This forms the stock ; allow it 
to remain for a week, stirring daily ; 
then put into the permanent jar in lay- 
ers ; sprinkle between the layers the 
following mixture : One ounce, each, 
of cloves and cinnamon, two nutmegs, 
two ounces of orris-root, and half an 
ounce of anise-seed, all coarsely pow- 
dered. It is a delightful thing to have 
in the house ; it may be opened fre- 
quently, and gives off a sweet, spicy, 
summery odor, a whiff of w^hich often 
cures a nervous headache. 

A simple and very fragrant cosmetic 
vinegar is made by tearing a pint of 
the rose leaves in pieces, and covering 
with one quart of white-wine vinegar, 
made boiling hot. Cork tightly in a 
stone jug, and let steep for two weeks. 
Strain, and pour into small bottles. 
A gill of this liquid in a pail of water 
makes an invigorating solution, whose 
delightful effects can only be compared 
with a plunge in the surf. Weak per- 
sons will find it a tonic beyond compare. 

To make an excellent substitute for 
rose - water, take a wide-mouthed jar, 
with a close-fitting lid. Place in the 
bottom a thin layer of cotton, saturated 
with olive oil ; spread over this a layer 
of the leaves ; lay on another sheet of 
oil-saturated cotton and more leaves. 



Repeat until the jar is full. Spread 
a sheet of oiled cotton over the top, 
cover, tie over it a piece of heavy, oiled 
paper, and place in the sun. At the 
end of a week squeeze the oil out of 
the cotton into a small phial. This is 
the perfumed oil of commerce, and the 
scent of any fiower or aromatic can be 
held captive by this simple process. 
A teaspoonful of this oil, cut with a 
gill of alcohol, and diluted with half a 
pint of distilled water (or water that 
has been boiled and cooled), makes an 
excellent rose-water for toilet purposes. 
By adding one tiuid dram of tincture 
of benzoin to a pint of the above rose- 
water, we have the famous " milk of 
roses." A tablespoonful to a bowl of 
water gives a milky-looking fluid, with 
a grateful and refreshing scent. If 
the skin is oily, add to a pmt of milk 
of roses two teaspoonfuls of powdered 
borax, and shake until well mixed; 
if, on the other hand, the skin is dry 
and scurfy, add, in place of the borax, 
two teaspoonfuls of glycerine. 

To remove tan, mix half a pint of rose- 
water and two tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice. Dab this on the flesh, and allow 
to dry; and for sunburn nothing is 
equal to the following rose paste : Mix 
one tablespoonful of cornstarch and 
four tablespoonfuls of glycerine. When 
well rubbed together, heat in a water 
bath, stirring constantly until a clear 
jelly is formed. Add, gradually, one 
tablespoonful of powdered orris-root; 
when it again boils, remove. Stir in 
one tablespoonful of lemon juice and 
four tablespoonfuls of rose - water. 
Pour into small pots, and when cool 
it IS ready for use. This emollient 
paste, spread over the face and hands 
before retiring, brings a soft freshness 
to the skin. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



63 



SIMPLE ENTERTAINMENTS FOR SUMMER. 

By Carrie May Ashton. 



Roof parties are quite the rage this 
season, and can be made most delight- 
ful affairs. As a rule they are very 
informal. 

Cover the roof with matting or rugs, 
and improvise several couches or di- 
vans by the aid of wire cots or boxes, 
and plenty of cushions and covers. 
Plants and palms make effective deco- 
rations. Wild flowers arranged in 
high jars or old-fashioned bowls are 
decidedly attractive. 

Where the roof is large, and walled 
in by a high parapet, it will be much 
pleasanter and safer. If there is any 
possible place for hammocks, suspend 
two or three gay ones. 

A pretty awning can be str.etched 
over the refreshment room. Elaborate 
refreshments are not needed, and not 
in keeping with the informality of the 
occasion. Sandwiches, salads, olives, 
salted nuts, ice-cream, or ices, with 
cake, lemonade, or fruit drinks, will be 
ample. 

Chinese lanterns add much to the 
festive appearance of an evening's 
entertainment ; they can be hung on 
strings stretched about the edge. Vari- 
ous other features, both novel and 
unique, can be added by the clever 
hostess who desires to give such a 
party. 



tirely in water-lilies, ferns, and vines. 
The house was a veritable symphony 
in green and white. 

The dining-room presented a most 
artistic appearance, the sideboard and 
mantel being banked in lilies. 

The table was covered with the finest 
and snowiest of linen. Reaching from 
the chandelier to the four corners of 
the table were vines of feathery green. 
The centrepiece consisted of a flat cir- 
cular mirror edged with water-lilies, 
with a tiny pot of maiden's-hair ferns 
in the centre. 

The china service used was of pure 
white chitia, dotted here and there 
with tiny fern fronds. 

The entire menu was in green and 
white. Sandwiches were tied with pale 
green ribbons , salads were served on 
lettuce leaves, olives on beds of cracked 
ice, and the fish course (timbales or 
souffle) was served in cunning little 
paper cups of pale green. Ices were 
served in the form of pond-lilies, and 
the white cake was iced in green. The 
confections and favors were also in 
green and white. 



A water-lily luncheon was recently 
given by a prospective bride to her 
attendants. The decorations were en- 



Nothing can be simpler and more 
effective than a luncheon or tea where 
field daisies are used throughout the 
decorations. There is no flower which 
lasts longer, or can be used to better 
advantage. Ferns make a good back- 
ground. Let the refreshments be in 
keeping with the decorations. 



64 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



BATTERS AND DOUGHS. 

By Janet M. Hill. 

" The children gather wood, and the fathers kindle the fire, and the women knead their 
dough to make cakes to the queen of heaven." 

" Ephraim is a cake not turned." 

" Make ready quickly three measures of fine meal, knead it, and make cakes upon the 
hearth." 



Very early in the history of the 
world, it seems, grains and other sub- 
stances less nutritious were ground be- 
tween stones, mixed with water to a 
dough, and baked upon hot stones or 
before the fire. 

An uncooked piece of dough, being 
left accidentally a sufficient length of 
time, would, by a natural process of 
fermentation, give rise to a light dough 
that might be baked in this condition. 
In some way like this the desirability 
of providing an article of food that 
was light and porous — and easily 
penetrated by the digestive fluids — 
was probably discovered, and in time, 
by means of artificial processes, other 
and less uncertain means of lightening 
dough were evolved. 

Definitions of Batters and Doughs. 

When meal or flour is mixed with 
liquid to such a consistency that it 
may be beaten^ the mixture is called a 
batter. When the batter is of such a 
consistency that it may be poured from 
the vessel or spoon in a continuous 
stream, it is called a pour batter. 
When the batter is of such thickness 
that it breaks and drops in pouring, 
we call it a drop batter. When a mix- 
ture cannot be beaten (beating is 
done by cutting down with a spoon or 
other utensil from the top to the bot- 
tom of a mixture, and bringing the 
spoon up to the surface, passing over 
and down again, and thus turning the 



mixture over and over), but needs be 
made smooth by tossing and cutting 
with a knife, kneading with the hands, 
or beating with a rolling-pin, the mix- 
ture becomes a dough. The general 
proportions of flour and liquid to pro- 
duce batter or dough are as follows : 
Equal measures of flour or meal and 
water make a pour batter ; two meas- 
ures of flour to one of liquid produce 
a drop batter, and three measures of 
flour to one of liquid produce a dough. 
These proportions are subject to many 
modifications, owing to combination 
with other ingredients, as sugar, butter, 
eggs, etc. Allowance must also be 
made for the kind of liquid and for the 
difference in the thickening properties 
of different kinds and grades of flour 
or meal. 

The expansion of water into several 
hundred times its volume of steam is 
taken advantage of in making johnny- 
cake (Joune- or journey-cake), which 
originated with the American Indians. 
The early settlers in this country 
learned how to make it from the 
squaws. The grains of corn were 
parched in hot ashes, sifted, and beaten 
into powder, then stored in long leath- 
ern bags. When food was needed a 
few spoonfuls of meal were mixed with 
snow in winter, and water in summer, 
and eaten uncooked, or cooked before 
the open fire. Fifty years ago johnny- 
cake was a common article of food in 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, 



65 



New England ; but it was made from 

cornmeal ground at the miller's and 

baked in the oven. 

The LighteJiiiig of Baiters a?id Doughs. 
Batters and doughs are made light by 
I. The expansion of water in composition. 



to the mixture, lest the expanded cells 
be broken, and in baking at such a tem- 
perature that the cells do not expand 
too quickly; and yet there must be suf- 
ficient heat to fix or harden the walls. 



By beating. 



II. The expansion of air incorporated j By adding beaten eggs. 

^ By folding. 



III. The generation of gas (carbon dioxide). 
or 



Fermentation 



\ Spon 



taneous. Decomoosition of starch 



\ Leaven. 
/ Yeast. 



' Artificial. Action of acid on carbonate or alkali : — 

1. Bicarbonate of soda and muriatic acid. 

2. Bicarbonate of soda and cream-of-tartar. 

3. Bicarbonate of soda and acid phosphate. 

4. Bicarbonate of soda and acids in lemon juice (citric), sour 

milk (lactic), or molasses (acetic). 



In making gems, as the spoon goes 
in and out and over the batter in beat- 
ing, air is carried into the mixture, the 
glutinous cell walls of the flour hold 
the air, w^hich, expanding when heated 
(air at 70° expands to about three 
times its volume at the temperature of 
a hot oven*) in connection with the ex- 
pansion of the w^ater or milk used as 
liquid and changed into steam, makes 
the gems light. In making puff or 
plain paste, it is the expansion of cold 
water used in mixing, and of cold air 
incorporated by folding, when the paste 
is placed in the heated oven, that gives 
lightness to the dough. It is only the 
indifferent cook who fears lest she do 
not retain the air by folding, or fails to 
regulate the heat of the oven, so that 
sudden expansion bursts the cell walls, 
or, lacking heat, the glutinous cell walls 
do not harden when expanded, and the 
desired lightness is lost. 

We also make use of the glutinous 
consistency of albumen in eggs in 
lightening batters and doughs. In this 
case, too, the greatest care must be 
exercised in adding the beaten eggs 
* Ellen H. Richards. 



So much care in mixing and baking 
was necessary, in order to secure light- 
ness, that chemists worked on the 
subject with zeal, but it was many 
years before a satisfactory, simple, yet 
suitable means of generating carbon 
dioxide by other means than the de- 
composition of starch was discovered. 
Yeast mixtures naturally precede those 
in which soda are used, but the latter 
will be given precedence here. 
Artificial Fermentation. 

Carbonates are compounds from 
which a gas can be set free ; the addi- 
tion of an acid to a compound which 
frees gas proves that such compound 
is a carbonate. That soda is a carbon- 
ate may be proved by the addition of 
several acids, any one of which will set 
free carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide 
may also be evolved from soda simply 
by heating it, but when soda is used 
alone, in batters and doughs, though 
lightness is secured, other essentials 
are lacking, the " cake " is yellow, and 
the unchanged carbonate neutralizes 
the acid in the digestive fluids, and thus 
impedes digestion. 



66 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



Sour milk, lemon juice, and molas- 
ses, through the lactic, citric, and acetic 
acids involved in their composition, 
when used with soda generate carbon 
dioxide ; but the quantity and strength 
of the acid are variable. Nor is any 
one of these ingredients such as would 
be available or suitable at all times, 
and under all circumstances. 

The muriatic acid of the chemist 
seemed, at first, to be the ideal acid to 
use with soda to set free carbon dioxide, 
as the residue after fermentation was 
common salt ; but the liberation of the 
gas was instantaneous when the acid 
and soda met. So this combination 
was dismissed as impractical. Acid 
phosphates, the residue from which are 
mineral matters, were tried, and are 
still in use ; but finally cream-of-tartar 
came to be considered the sitie qua non 
for which the culinary world was seek- 
ing to complete the necessary chemical 
reaction in the process of lightening 
food. There were several reasons for 
this conclusion, and these hold good 
to-day. 

Cream-of-tartar is a harmless sub- 
stance, which does not unite chemi- 
cally with soda until the application 
of heat, as well as moisture ; and the 
residue (Rochelle salts) is harmless 
when taken in the quantity used in 
food, even when a large amount of such 
food is eaten. 

There is one objection to the use 
of soda and cream - of - tartar. The 
proportion of each to be used must 
be measured with the greatest ac- 
curacy. Rather more than twice as 
much cream-of-tartar as soda, by meas- 
ure, needs be used. If the quantity of 
soda be too great, the caustic unneu- 
tralized carbonate will neutralize the 
acid of the gastric juice and hinder 



digestion. In this case the yellow 
color of the food tells the story, and 
the food may be avoided ; but, on ac- 
count of this necessary accuracy in 
measurement, baking-powder has come 
into general use. 

Baking- Powder. 

The best approved baking-powder is 
a composition of bicarbonate of soda 
and cream-of-tartar, mixed in such pro- 
portion that one exactly neutralizes the 
other. A small quantity of cornstarch 
or flour is added to separate the ingre- 
dients. These three ingredients are 
mixed together by sifting many tiines 
(ten or more) so that each little particle 
of carbonate and acid be surrounded 
by a thin coating, or film, of starch. 
There are many grades of soda, cream- 
of-tartar, and flour, and of course the 
best give the best results. 

Bicarbonate of Soda. 

Soda is obtained from "cryolite," 
a native deposit found in the earth, 
from certain marine plants, and from 
common salt. At the present time the 
best soda is obtained from a " cryo- 
lite " brought from Greenland, about 
15,000 tons are annually worked up. 
Soda is cheap, and this ingredient is 
rarely, probably never, adulterated. 
Bicarbonate of soda, the form used 
for leavening purposes, is produced by 
charging common soda with carbonic- 
acid gas. 

Cream-of- Tartar. 

The acid used to set free the car- 
bon dioxide in bicarbonate of soda is 
a deposit from grape juice found in 
wine casks. The name " argol " is 
given to this grape acid, which, when 
purified, becomes cream-of-tartar. This 
acid exists naturally in the grape, but, 
being insoluble in alcohol, it is gradu- 
ally deposited on the sides of the cask 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



67 



as the sugar of the juice is converted 
into alcohol by fermentation. The 
best argol is obtained from the wine- 
producing countries of Southern Eu- 
rope, that from California, for some 
unknown condition of soil, climate, or 
culture, being of an inferior grade. 
The color of argol depends upon the 
color of the grapes from which the 
juice is expressed. It varies from 
grayish white to reddish purple. Argol 
is first ground, and then purified. This 
latter process is an expensive one. 
Nothing is desirable but the pure grape 
acid ; lime, coloring, and all other im- 
purities found in the argol, needs be 
removed; and the purity, hence ex- 
pense, depends entirely upon the care 
of the refiners. Below is found the 
proper 

Formula for a Baking- Foivder. 

I lb. 2 oz. cream-of-tartar. 
\ lb. bicarbonate of soda. 
^ \.o \ lb. of cornstarch or fine flour. 

At first sight one would say, Why not 
buy the ingredients of a reliable chem- 
ist and mix one's own baking-powder .'' 
This may be done if the product is to 
be used very soon; still, the ingredients 
may not have been recently prepared 
and so be lacking in strength; then, too, 
the chemist has appliances for drying 
the ingredients before they are mixed, 
which does much to preserve their 
strength. Starch and cream of-tartar 
can be most effectually dried out, but 
soda can be heated only slightly with- 
out the loss of its gas. In use, baking- 
powder should always be sifted with the 
dry ingredieiits to prevent, as far as 
possible, the escape of the gas until 
the mixture is placed in the oven. In 
using soda and cream-of-tartar, pulver- 
ize and sift the soda before measur- 
ing, and then sift both ingredients at 



least twice with the flour, being care- 
ful to separate them with flour after 
measuring. 

Proportions of Artificial Leavening 
Agents. 

I teaspoonful of soda to i pint of thick sour 
milk. 

I teaspoonful of soda to .1 cup of molasses, 
for batters. 

^ a teaspoonful of soda to i cup of mo- 
lasses, for doughs. 

i a teaspoonful of soda to 2 tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice in thick batters, for each 2 
cups of flour, 

1 teaspoonful of soda to 3 and a half tea- 
spoonfuls of cream-of-tartar to i quart of flour. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to a cup 
of flour, in mixtures without eggs. 

In mixtures made light by the in- 
corporation of air into the mixture it- 
self, or into eggs added to the mixture, 
great care must be exercised that air 
actually be incorporated, and there re- 
tained until the cell walls are hardened 
by heat. Not only must the tempera- 
ture of the oven be regulated to a 
nicety, but certain purely mechanical 
operations must be understood. By 
stirring a beaten mixture, we set free 
the air included by beating, and change 
what might have been a light produc- 
tion to a heavy one. 

Stirring^ Beatings etc. 

Stirring is an operation in which the 
spoon or knife is moved round and 
round in ever-widenmg circles, until 
the ingredients are thoroughly blended. 
In beating, the spoon or other utensil 
is brought down from the top to the 
bottom of a mixture, through the mix- 
ture, up to the surface, over the mix- 
ture and down again, taking the 
mixture along with it, turning it over 
and over, and always accompanied 
with air. When beaten eggs, and more 
particularly the whites, are added to 
a mixture, they are added by cutting 



68 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



and foldhig. The spoon or knife is 
cut down to the bottom of the dish 
several times, and the mixture from be- 
low brought up and folded over that 
which is above, and the motion re- 
peated until the two are well blended. 
Suggestions. 

As the acid in lemon juice sets free 
carbon dioxide, in a large measure, 
upon contact with the soda, mixtures 
in which these agents are employed 
will not be very light, and their use is 
restricted to cakes in which a close 
texture is desirable. Add the lemon 
juice to the eggs and sugar and sift the 
soda into the flour. 

Sour milk, buttermilk, or cream with 
soda are most successfully used in 
mixtures in which cornmeal predomi- 
nates. Such preparations are incom- 
parably moister, more tender and deli- 
cate, when the leavening gas is thus 
generated, than when cream-of-tartar 
in any form is used as the generating 
acid. 

In wheat-flour mixtures, when pure 
cream-of-tartar and soda are used, 
either in bulk or in the form of baking- 
powder, if the correct proportions be 
taken and the proper temperature of 
the oven be secured, the cooked prod- 
uct will be neither dry nor too por- 
ous. If such be the case, you have 
reason to suspect the presence of some 
other ingredient, or, in other words, an 
adulteration of the lightening agent. 

RECIPES. 

Johnny-Cake. 

Stir one pint of scalded milk or 

water, or half of each, into one cup of 

yellow or white cornmeal, to which a 

teaspoonful of salt has been added. 



Bake in a buttered pan about eighteen 
minutes. 

Jo/mny-Cake, No. 2. 

To one pint of meal and one tea- 
spoonful of salt stir boiling water to 
make a thick drop batter ; thin to a 
thick pour batter with cold milk ; drop 
by tablespoonfuls on to a hot buttered 
frying-pan and bake as griddle-cakes. 
Popovers. 

Beat three eggs until very light with- 
out separating ; add, alternately, sifted 
flour and milk — a little at a time — 
until a pint of each has been used ; 
beat thoroughly with the egg-beater. 
Put one-fourth a teaspoonful of butter 
into each hot cup, and fill them to 
two-thirds their height with the batter. 
Bake between thirty and forty minutes 
in a rather hot oven ; use for a change 
half entire - wheat flour. — A7inie C. 
Graver. 

Maryland Beaten Biscuit. 

With the tips of the fingers work a 
teaspoonful of butter into each pint of 
flour, then mix with milk to a dough ; 
beat twenty minutes, then cut into 
rounds and bake in a moderate oven. 
— ''Rosie:' 

General Rule for Muffins. 

Sift together one cup, each, of meal 
and flour, or two of flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, three and one-half 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
and from two tablespoonfuls to half a 
cup of sugar. Beat an egg until light 
without separating, add one cup of 
milk, and stir at once into the dry in- 
gredients. Add also from one table- 
spoonful to one-fourth a cup of melted 
butter; beat thoroughly and bake about 
twenty -five minutes in a hot, well- 
buttered muffin or gem pan. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



69 



SELECTED VERSE, 



THE POET S BEQUEST. 
With all its leafy voices spake to me 

My guardian tree, 
As I sat dreaming in my shady seat : 

" I shall outlive thee ; " 
Then answered I, dream fashion, as was meet : 

" This charge I give thee : 
Make, then, his dreams as pleasant and as 

sweet, 
Who shall hereafter fill this shady seat. 

As mine for me, 
Thou long-outliving, kindly dooryard tree ! " 

With fragrant sighing, as I passed her place. 

And half-hid face. 
The wild rose spake beside the crumbling 
wall : 

" I shall outlive thee." 
Then I (as one who heeds a far-sent call) : 

" A charge I give thee, 
O rose, solace and peace to him befall 
(As once to me) who, by this crumbling wall. 

Shall feel the grace 
Of unknown things in thine averted face ! " 

Wherefore this legend do I leave for him 

Who here outlives me : 
" I drank the cup of joy, filled to the brim ; 

Nothing misgives me. 
Drink thou thereof; and all once mine be 

thine ; 
Then, in thy turn, as glad the cup resign." 

— Edith M. Thomas, in " The Cenhcryy 



SHARED. 



I SAID it in the meadow path, 
I say it on the mountain stairs : 

The best things any mortal hath 

Are those which every mortal shares. 

The air we breathe, the sky, the breeze, 
The light without us and within, 

Life, with its unlocked treasuries, 
God's riches, are for all to win. 

The grass is softer to my tread, 

For rest it yields unnumbered feet ; 

Sweeter to me the wild rose red 

Because she makes the whole world sweet. 

Into your heavenly loneliness 
Ye welcome me, O solemn peaks ! 



And me in every guest you bless 
Who reverently your mystery seeks. 

And up the radiant peopled way 
That opens into worlds unknown. 

It will be life's delight to say, 

" Heaven is not heaven for me alone." 

Rich by my brethren's poverty ! 

Such wealth were hideous. I am blest 
Only in what they share with me. 

In what I share with all the rest. 

— Lucy LarcojH, 



ONCE IN A WHILE. 

It is easy enough to be pleasant 

When life flows by like a song. 
But the man worth while is one who will 
smile 

When everything goes wrong. 
For the test of the heart is trouble. 

And it always comes with the years, 
And the smile that is worth the praises 
of earth 

Is the smile that shines through tears. 

It is easy enough to be prudent 

When nothing tempts you to stray. 
When without or within no voice of sin 

Is luring your soul away. 
But it's only a negative virtue 

Until it is tried by fire, 
And the life that is worth the honor of 
earth 

Is the one that resists desire. 

By the cynic, the sad, the fallen, 

Who had no strength for the strife, 
The world's highway is cumbered to-day ; 

They make up the item of life. 
But the virtue that conquers passion, 

And the sorrow that hides in a smile, — 
It is these that are worth the homage of 
earth. 

For we find them but once in a while. 



Straight is the line of duty, 
Curved is the Une of beauty. 
Follow the straight Une, thou shalt see 
The curved Une ever follow thee. 



70 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



^be ^Boston Coof^ino^Scbool 
Corpotation. 

Established 1879. Incorporated 1882. 

School : 372 Boylston Street. 



BOARD OF MANAGERS, 1900. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL - - - President. 
Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vice-President. 



SXBCUTIVF COMMITTI^B. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL, 

Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER, 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL, 
Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY, 

Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS, 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING, 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN, 
Miss MINNA TRAIN, 

Mrs. EVERETT MORSS. 
Mrs. G. E. NILES, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MERRITT FARMER. 
Miss CHARLOTTE JAMES WILLS. 
Miss MARIA W. HOWARD. 



Assistants, 



TTbe Boston CooMuG^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL CORPORATION. 

Publication Ofl&ce : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

JANET MCKENZIE HILL - - - Editor. 



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R. B. HILL, 



General Manager. 
Business Manager. 



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until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

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expiration of j-our subscription. Please renew 
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Entered at Boston Postofl&ce as second-class 

matter. 



SPECIAL NOTICE. 

For the coiiveDieiice of .subscrib- 
ers, the Boston Cookinj? - School 
Magrazine will be continued until 
a written order to discontinue is 
received and arrearages are paid. 

The date stamped on the Avrap- 
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scription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
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Please rencAV on receipt of the 
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Ix the next(October-November) num- 
ber, the Boston Cooking-School Mag- 
AzixE will publish the first of a series of 
papers on " Home Nursing," by M. C. 
Limerick, of Drexel Institute. These 
papers have been prepared with great 
care, and will prove, we anticipate, of 
interest and permanent value to many 
readers. 

In the same issue, Miss Catherine 
J. Coolidge continues her articles on 
"Some Duties of a Waitress," taking 
up the subject of the pantry, wash- 
ing dishes, care of leftovers from the 
meals, etc., etc. Kate Sanborn, in her 
own entertaining style, will write on a 
"Dream Luncheon"; besides, the author 
of " Adopting an Abandoned Farm " 
always has ideas to present. Also, Mrs. 
Hill is preparing for this number a 
special article on " The Making and 
Baking of Cake," illustrated by. half- 
tones of the original objects. 



" No profit grows where is no pleasure ta'en." 
T^HE vacation season is on once 
^ more. The spirit of recreation per- 
vades the atmosphere. The city, with 
its heat, and dust, and turmoil of traffic, 
no longer attracts. The constraint 
and excitement that attend life in 



THE BOSTO.V COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



71 



crowded spaces exhaust vital forces. 
It is an unnatural way of living any- 
how. One never entirely outlives the 
desire to hie away to the wilderness and 
go a-fishing. An innate longing for a 
closer contact with Mother Earth seems 
to allure, as ever, the race. 

The ancient Greek lived much in the 
open air. Even his places of amusement 
were uncovered. Both the literature 
and art of this people bear conclusive 
evidence of their exceeding fondness 
of nature. Besides a magnificent pal- 
ace on the Palatine mount, Cicero had 
some fifteen villas in various parts of 
Italy. At one of these he is said to 
have entertained Caesar and his large 
retinue. 

But by far the best feature of the 
annual season of vacation is the change 
it affords, — change in diet, scene, and 
associations ; a brief respite from the 
routine and humdrum of daily toil. 
Change itself is helpful. Rotation in 
occupation benefits man. They who 
accomplish most in life are not only 
most active, but are also of a somewhat 
restless disposition. These are able 
to concentrate steadfastly upon a single 
subject, but turn away readily for re- 
laxation, to engage in another line of 
effort, or to enter upon a new enter- 
prise. It is not work, so much as it is 
drudgery, that kills. As someone has 
said, happiness here consists in being 
busily engaged in a congenial occu- 
pation, and in being well paid for it. 
To a complete change and wholesome 
restfulness, the seaside or mountain re- 
sort is most conducive. There wide ex- 
panse of horizon, the soft outlines of 
distant mountains, the magical trans- 
formation of landscape under the ever- 
varying influence of light and shadow, 
tend to divert thought and soothe tired 



nerves as naught else save music can 
possibly do. 

" Better than all measures 

Of delightful sound, 
Better than all treasures 

That in books are found, 
Thy skill to poet were, 

Thou scorner of the ground, " 
wrote one who was fond of nature and 
a lover of the beautiful. 

From a sanitary, hygienic, or soul- 
uplifting point of view, the value of the 
yearly outing for recreation and recup- 
eration of physical and mental strength 
cannot be too highly extolled. Wide 
as the custom now reaches, would that 
the blessing might be extended to all ! 
And who needs rest and recreation 
more, or who would receive greater 
benefit thereby, than the faithful house- 
wife in countless homes ? 



T^HE celebration of Old-Home Day 
■*■ in one State, and of Old-Home 
Week in another, is an example of- a 
call to reminiscence and recreation in 
the vacation season that might well be 
followed by other Commonwealths. 
The general and hearty manner in 
which these days are observed, where 
the custom has been instituted, is in- 
dicative of the popularity of the occa- 
sion. Annually, from far and wide,, 
larger and larger numbers are making 
pilgrimages to the old homesteads, there 
to take account of stock and recuperate 
powers for the contest of another year 
in the busy marts of the world. 

As in many another respect, is there 
any place for rest and meditation like 
the old home ? '' Out of silence comes 
thy strength." We go to the hills and 
mountains to build up in thought, to 
make resolution that henceforth, instead 
of drifting aimlessly, we may achieve in 
accordance wdth plan and purpose- 



72 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



Deservedly we honor those who are 
fond of home ; yie trait thus mani- 
fested is ever to be commended. Even 
wholesome family pride, at which the 
shallow are apt to sneer, is a feeling to 
cherish rather than to restrain. We ex- 
pect less ill of one who has lived under 
the benign influence of a good home ; 
who bears a name of which he is proud, 
— a name that must be kept free from 
any least taint of dishonor. 

Whatever tends to strengthen the 
ties of family life, to exalt the home, 
and render its associations pleasing 
and abiding, — are not these matters 
worthy of the finest cultivation ? 

" W^hatsoever things are true, whatso- 
ever things are just, whatsoever things 
are pure, whatsoever things are lovely, 
whatsoever things are of good report ; 
if there be any virtue, and if there be 
any praise, think on these things." 



" We might call this the age of sani- 
tary awakening," says the Medical Com- 
pe?id, and yet " so far as we are aware, 
the town authorities do not attempt to 
inspect laundries or to require the use 
of antiseptics. The laundress uses as 
much or as little water as she sees fit. 
The soap made use of may be the 
poorest or the best ; and, if the soap 
pretends to be antiseptic or medicated, 
it is doubtful if it posesses any real 
antiseptic value. It is a question 
whether a really antiseptic soap for 
laundry purposes exists. There may 
be such soaps on the market, but if so, 
the writer does not know of them. 
It would be very desirable if those 
sending washing to the laundry were 
obliged to certify that the clothing had 
not been made use of by patients 
suffering from contagious diseases. 
Patients who have tuberculosis, etc.. 



should be prevented from sending 
their clothing to laundries, except to 
such as are specially provided for by 
the town authorities. All laundries 
and laundresses should be duly li- 
censed and under strict inspection, 
and each tub of water used in public 
laundries should contain a requisite 
amount of some reliable disinfectant." 
This is a timely warning. To a 
matter of vital concern attention is thus 
called. There are laundries that meet 
every sanitary requirement and render 
in service all that could be desired, but 
these are not common. For security, 
people must become aware of the risks 
they incur, and demand the proper 
safeguards of their interests. 



Remember that you must behave in 
life as at a banquet. Is anything 
brought round to you ? Put out your 
hand and take a moderate share. Does 
it pass by you ? Do not stop it. Is it 
not yet come ? Do not yearn in desire 
toward it, but wait till it reaches you. 
— Epidetus. 



Let the first satisfaction of appetite 
be always the measure to you of eating 
and drinking, and appetite itself the 
sauce and th6 pleasure. Thus you will 
never take more than is necessary, nor 
will you want cooks. — Ibid. 

No one who is a lover of money, a 
lover of pleasure, or a lover of glory, 
is likewise a lover of mankind, but only 
he who is a lover of virtue. — Ibid. 



Consider that you do not thrive 
merely by the food in your stomach, 
but by the elevation of your soul. 

— Ibid. 



After= Breakfast Chat, 

By Janet M. Hill. 



O health ! heahh ! the blessing of the rich 1 the riches of the poor 1 Who can buy thee at 
too dear a rate, since there is no enjoying the world wnthout thee? — Ben /onson. 



*' Am I my brother's keeper ? " 

That what a man is physically, men- 
tally, and morally depends in no small 
measure upon the food he eats, is, in 
these days, pretty generally believed ; 
in a certain sense, people are con- 
cerned in this matter as they have 
never been before. This fact is 
evinced by the attention given to the 
subject of food and feeding in the lit- 
erature of the day. We have had sci- 
entific articles by professional experts, 
and the practical application of the 
truths involved in these articles by cul- 
inary experts ; and now, latest of all, 
we have in a leading periodical, in 
" Heprah Hunt's Journey through the 
Inferno," a pictorial representation of 
the fate that in the hereafter awaits 
"bad cooks.'' 

But, after all, the indisputable fact re- 
mains that the necessity of proper food 
and good cooking is not as yet taken 
seriously by the community at large. 
How can it be when good cooking, as 
such, is recognized only by the few? 
Diet kitchens in schools, hospitals, and 
institutions of all grades and kinds 
exist merely in name. In some of 
these an attempt is made to teach the 
theory of cooking, but the practical 
application of this theory is rarely 
made. Too often the individual in 
charge of the diet kitchen has no voice 
in the purchase of supplies or in their 
manipulation. Where large numbers 



are of necessity fed at low cost, in- 
dividual tastes cannot be given due 
attention; and yet the highest attain- 
ment possible to an individual is 
what each should claim in an ideal 
condition. Is not this possible aim 
that which each school, hospital, or 
reformatory institution claims for it- 
self? And is not the food supply 
the very foundation stone of the whole 
structure ? But, with rare exceptions, 
the selection of the supplies and the 
cooking itself in large public and pri- 
vate institutions are known to be in- 
different, if not notoriously bad, even 
when considered without regard to in- 
dividual needs. 

In hospitals, where the sick are to be 
lured back to life and health, where 
the nurses infringe upon the laws of 
health and regular living ; in schools, 
where the worry incident to promotion, 
and the excitement of a life in which 
one is always, as it were, on parade, 
the dietary needs be nourishing and 
generous. All these classes of in- 
dividuals have appetites too discrim- 
inating to find satisfaction in crude, 
coarse, and imperfectly prepared food. 
Pupils break down yearly, not from 
overstudy, but from malnutrition, the 
result of improper feeding. It should 
be the duty of the guardians of young 
men and women to consider the com- 
missary department of the school as 



74 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



well as its course of study. If the 
latter is to be properly assimilated, first 
let food suitable in kind and sufficient 
in quantity be provided. 

What can be expected from the 
tables of preparatory and private 
schools in the country, when Kate 
Hallady Claghorn, Ph. D., of Yale, 
says, in her book, " The College 
Training of Women," that ''there is 
scarcely a college in this country that 
sets a table adequate to supply the 
needs of the young and growing bodies 
and the actively working minds of its 
students " ? And yet it is estimated that 
the dietary at the average hospital and 
other public institution is below even 
that of the school. 

There may be another side to this 
question that requires consideration. 
Has the student, by proper home train- 
ing, cultivated a taste for good, whole 
some food, or has he acquired a per- 
verted appetite that demands nothing 
of real food value? Besides, opinions 
differ as to what is wholesome food. 
For instance, the eating of bread and 
cereals may be carried to excess, and 
neither of those is wholesome unless 
properly cooked. 

If fresh meat be purchased for stews 
and boiling, it needs be fresher than 
for roasting or it will not be palatable ; 
then, too, time is required for the. cook- 
ing of tough meats. Macaroni may be 
made, with proper cooking, into many 
delectable dishes and at slight expense ; 
so may rice, a cereal held so often in 



contempt because it is illy prepared. 
Potatoes, as one hospital patient said, 
"always with a bone in them,'' and 
slack-baked baker's bread, are both 
conducive to indigestion. 

Intimately connected with the sub- 
ject oE food is the equally important 
matter of the water supply. This 
question of drinking-water is often 
the hinge on which the whole subject 
of health turns. Whatever a family, 
or an institution,- has become hab-' 
ituated to is taken for granted to be 
all right ; but in the country, where 
sewers are unknown, the nearness of 
a cesspool or the stable yard is a con- 
stant menace to health. Indeed, in some 
soils, contiguity plays but a small part 
in the matter, for a well often drains 
a larger surface than is generally real- 
ized. 

A deep well, properly situated, where 
the rainfall, carrying organic matter, 
must be filtered through earth and 
stone to reach its level, would seem to 
offer a water that one might drink with 
safety; but this is a subject that must 
be given more than passing attention. 
Who would willingly take the chances of 
a water-borne typhoid case, or the list- 
less inertia of malarial poisoning, as 
the outcome of a term at school ? 

However, the water supply in large 
schools and institutions is given more 
attention than the food, and danger 
from this source is restricted largely to 
the country. Here it should receive 
the attention its importance demands. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



75 



SEASONABLE RECIPES, 

(In all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured 
after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a 
spoo?i and a level cupful is meant. A tablespoojiful or a teaspoonful of any 
designated material is a level spoo7iful of such material.) 



Green- Corn Soup. 
Boil the cobs, from which a pint of 
corn pulp has been removed, in water 
to cover. Scald a pint of milk with a 
slice of onion ; drain the water from 
the cobs ; of this add a pint to the 
pulp, and let simmer fifteen minutes ; 
remove the onion from the milk, and 
cook in it one tablespoonful of corn- 
starch diluted with a litile cold milk ; 



Eggs Cooked in Shirring- Cups. 
Butter a shirring-cup, break the shell 
of the ^gg, and turn the contents into 
it, taking care to keep the yolk whole ; 
dust with salt, add half a teaspoonful 
of butter, and set, in a dish of hot 
water, into the oven; cook until the 
yolk is set. Bread crumbs alone, or 
with chopped meat stirred into tomato 
sauce, or cream, may be put into the 




EGGS COOKED IN SHIRRING-DISHES. BOILED EGG IN EGG CUP. 



let cook ten minutes, then add the 
pulp, a teaspoonful or more of salt, 
and a dash of pepper. The yolks of 
two eggs, beaten, and diluted with a 
tablespoonful or two of cream, may 
be stirred into the soup when it is 
taken from the fire. A can of corn, 
with a pint of water, may be used in 
place of the green corn ; but in this 
case pass through a sieve. If kornlet 
be used, the soup need not be strained. 



bottom of the cup, then the egg added 
and covered with a little more of the 
mixture. 

Tomatoes with Macaroni and Cheese. 

Cook half a pound of macaroni in 
rapidly boiling salted water until ten- 
der. Scald one pint of cream over 
hot water ; add half a pound of cheese 
cut into thin shavings, and stir until 
the cheese is melted; add one fourtli 
a cup of butter and a dash of salt and 



76 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 




BAVARIOSE OF GINGER, 

paprica. Have ready, baked, in a 
serving-dish, five or six tomatoes (skin 
and core removed before baking); dis- 
pose the macaroni in a wreath around 
the tomatoes, pour the cheese mixture 
over the whole, and serve very hot. 
Poached Eggs with Croutons of Ham. 
Stir one cup of fine-chopped cooked 
ham into one cup of white or brown 
sauce ; season with a few grains of cay- 
enne and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
Cut out some thick rounds of bread 
and remove the centres ; brush over 
with butter and brown in the oven ; 
fill the open space with the ham mix- 
ture, and place a fresh egg, neatly 
poached, on the top of each round. 
Garnish with parsley or cress. 
Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes a?id 
Green Pepper. 
Remove seeds and veins from a 
green pepper and cut it in shreds. 
Scald five tomatoes, remove the skins, 
and cut in quarters ; cook the pepper 
and tomatoes in two tablespoonfuls of 
butter until the liquid is reduced, then 
season with salt and keep hot. Melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saute- 
pan, pour in six eggs, beaten, without 
separating, until a full spoonful can be 
taken up, and season with salt. Stir 
and cook until the eggs become thick 
and creamy ; add meanwhile two table- 



spoonfuls of butter in pieces. Turn 
on to a hot dish and surround with 
the tomato. 

Baked Eggs with Cheese. 

Stamp out rounds of bread, spread 
with butter, and cover with thin slices 
of cheese. Arrange in a baking-dish — 
one that can be sent to table preferred 
— break a fresh egg over each round 
of bread and cheese, dust with salt and 
paprica, and set in the oven until the 
eggs are cooked to taste. 

Rabbit en Casserole. 

Cut the rabbit into joints for serv- 
ing, dredge lightly with flour, and saute 
in butter until a golden brown on all 
sides. Then put into the casserole. 
Brown an onion in the frying-pan; 
either cut in halves, so that it may be 
removed from the casserole before 
serving, or cut in rings, when it should 
be served with the rabbit. When the 
onion is brown add a tablespoonful of 
butter; cook a tablespoonful of flour 
in it, add a pint of water gradually, 
also salt and pepper, and pour over 
the rabbit ; add boiling water to half 
cover, also a piece of bay leaf; cover 
and let simmer in the oven an hour 
or more. When tender add a scant 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, three or 
four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and, if 
desired, a dozen small button onions 




FRENCH CASSEROLE. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



77 



cooked until tender in boiling water. 
If a thicker sauce be wished, mix a 
little cornstarch with cold water and 
stir into the liquid ; let cook ten min- 
utes, then add the wine and lemon 
juice. 

Virginia Smothered Chicken, Cream 
Gravy. 

Cut down each side the backbone 
of a tender chicken and remove the 
bone with the internal organs ; wash 
and wipe and set on the rack in a 
baking pan with a cup of hot water. 
When beginning to brown, dust with 



frequent basting. For serving, cut in 
slices parallel to the backbone. Ten 
or twelve people may be served from 
a cut of this size. Serve with rounds 
of apple, from which the skin and core 
have been removed, simmered until 
tender in currant jelly reduced with 
hot water. If preferred, the apples 
may be simmered in sugar and water. 
In either case select tart apples. 
Baked Cauliflower. 
Boil a cauliflower, taking care that 
it be rather under than over done. 
Trim the stalk so that the cauliflower 




TIP OF VENISON SADDLE ROASTED. 



salt and cover with a tablespoonful, 
each, of butter and flour creamed to- 
gether; baste every ten minutes until 
browned, then remove. To the liquid 
add a cup of cream or rich milk, salt 
and pepper, if desired, and pour over 
the chicken. 

Tip of Ve?iiso7i Saddle Roasted. 
Lard the tip of a well-dressed saddle 
of venison with firm salt pork ; brush 
over also with butter, or lay strips of 
fat salt pork over the top after dredg- 
ing with salt, pepper, and flour. A tip 
weighing four pounds will need cook 
about three-fourths of an hour, with 



will stand level ; do not remove the 
tender leaves. Put in a well-buttered 
baking-dish that may be sent to the 
table, and dust with salt and black 
pepper. Have prepared a cup of sauce 
made of chicken broth ; add two table- 
spoonfuls of thick cream and one-fourth 
a cup of grated cheese (American fac- 
tory or Parmesan). Pour the sauce 
over the cauliflower, so that it fills up 
all the crevices. Sprinkle a layer of 
grated cheese over the whole and bake 
in a rather quick oven ten or fifteen 
minutes. Substitute milk for chicken 
stock if desired. 



78 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



Egg Plant au Gratin. 
Peel an &gg plant, cut in inch cubes ; 
let simmer in a little water until tender, 
then drain in collander, pressing out 
all of the juice. Fry a grated onion in 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, add the 
&gg plant, a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, wdth salt and pepper. Turn 
into a baking-dish, cover with half a 
cup of cracker crumbs mixed with two 



salt and pepper, add half a teaspoon- 
ful of chopped parsley, and fill the 
tomatoes with the mixture ; cover the 
top of the mushroom filling with but- 
tered crumbs, to which a little grated 
Parmesan cheese has been added. 
Bake about twelve minutes. Serve on 
slices of toast or croutons. 

Blackberry Shortcake. 
Sift together three cups of pastry 




BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE. 



tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and 
bake until the crumbs are browned. 
Tofuatoes a la St. Jacques. 
Remove centres from tomatoes and 
dust inside with salt and pepper. Peel 
a cup and a half of small button mush- 
room caps, sprinkle with lemon juice, 
then saute to a delicate yellow color 
in butter ; remove the mushrooms 
and prepare a cup of white sauce ; add 
tlie mushrooms, season to taste with 



flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and six 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder ; 
with the tips of the fingers, well floured, 
work in one -third a cup of butter; 
wet with about one cup and a half of 
milk and water mixed to a soft dough ; 
spread in two buttered pans, smooth- 
ing the dough with a knife or spoon. 
When baked, butter the under crust, 
and put together with two baskets of 
blackberries that have been standing 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



79 



mixed with granulated sugar for some 
time. Sprinkle the berries on top of 
the cake with powdered sugar. The 
berries between the cakes and a part 
of those on top may be mashed if 
desired. 

Bavariose of Ginger. 
To a cup of double cream add a 
cup of milk, and whip with a cream 
whip, removing and draining the froth 



to set, fold in the cream and turn into 
a mould. Serve with whipped cream 
or with preserved ginger. 

Pineapple with Rice Cream. 
Cook a cup of washed rice five min- 
utes in boiling water ; drain, add a 
quart of milk, and cook over hot water 
until tender, and the milk is absorbed ; 
then add half a teaspoonful of salt, 
half a cup of sugar, one-fourth a cup 




PINEAPPLE WITH RICE CREAM. 



as it rises. Add to the cream that 
does not whip enough milk to make 
one cup ; scald, and cook in this the 
yolks of two eggs beaten with two- 
thirds a cup of sugar ; when thickened 
slightly add one-fourth a box of gela- 
tine softened in one-fourth a cup of 
cold water, and strain ; when cool add 
preserved ginger chopped fine and gin- 
ger syrup to half fill a cup, and the 
juice of half a lemon ; when beginning 



of butter, or half a cup of cream, with 
wine, lemon, or vanilla for flavoring. 
Decorate the bottoms of six small tim- 
bale moulds with rings of angelica and 
candied cherries, the opposite sides with 
crescents of angelica and cherries, and 
fill with the rice ; also fill a plain mould 
with rice, let cook standing in boiling 
water in the oven ten or fifteen min- 
utes. Invert, on a serving- dish, the 
timbales on the plain mould. Sur- 



8o 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



round with quarter slices of pineapple 
covered with syrup, but not cooked. 
Pour the syrup around or serve apart. 
Ca?iteloupe Ice in Baskets. 
Remove the edible part of a cante- 
loupe, leaving the shell in the shape 
of a basket. (Use one large basket 
or a small one for each service.) To 
three pints of pulp add one cup and a 



made of the shell from which the pulp 
was taken. 
Salpiam of Fruit in Muskmelons 

Halved. 
Chill small muskmelons, cut in 
halves, and remove the seeds, but re- 
tain the pulp intact. Fill with a chilled 
mixture of sliced peaches, shredded 
pineapple, and sections of orange re- 




MUSKMELON SALAD (SWEET). 



half of sugar and the juice of five 
lemons ; mix, and pass through a fine 
sieve; freeze as usual. Serve in the 
chilled shell or shells. 

Melon Salad (Sweet). 
Cut the edible portion of a chilled 
melon into small cubes. Mix together 
half a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, and one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of mace ; sprinkle over a quart of 
the cubes, toss together, and serve 
from a salad-bowl, or from a basket 



moved from the membrane and mixed 
with sugar. 

Pineapple Jelly. 
Cook one pint of grated pineapple 
with three-fourths a cup of sugar ten 
minutes ; let cool, then add the juice 
of two lemons. Soak one-third a pack- 
age of gelatine in half a cup of cold 
water and dissolve over hot water ; 
strain into the first mixture, and, if de- 
sired, tint a delicate green ; turn into 
a mould to chill and become set. 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZTYE. 



8l 



Serve with cream and sugar or cut in 
cubes, as a garnish to a mould of ice 
cream. 

Lemo7iade. 

Boil one pint of sugar and one pint 
of water ten minutes ; let cool, add 
three pints of water, one pint of lemon 
juice, and two lemons cut in thin slices. 
Cool on ice. 

Hot Mapk Sauce for Ice- Cream. 

Boil two cups of maple syrup and 



gelatine, softened in a very little cold 
water, and half a cup of sugar ; strain 
into a pan set in ice water, stir until 
the mixture is cool and begins to thick- 
en, then fold into it gradually the froth 
from two cups of thin cream, and turn 
into a mould. Let stand packed in 
equal parts of ice and salt about three 
hours. 

Peach Ice- Cream. 
Remove the skin and stones, and 




PEACH ICE-CREAM. 



three-fourths a cup of cream, or one- 
third a cup of butter, about ten min- 
utes, or until the syrup will form a soft 
ball when tried in cold water. Pour at 
once over slices of ice-cream. If there 
is delay in serving, let stand in boiling 
water a few moments. 

Caramel Mousse. 
Cook three-fourths a cup of sugar 
to caramel, and dissolve with half a 
cup of hot water ; add the water very 
gradually, as the liquid will, foam and 
steam ; keep hot until the caramel dis- 
solves, then add one teaspoonful of 



press enough peaches through a potato 
ricer to make a cup and a half of pulp ; 
add the juice of a lemon and a cup 
and a fourth of sugar, and turn into 
the can of a freezer packed for freez- 
ing ; let stand until chilled, then add 
a pint of thin cream, and freeze as 
usual. Pack in a brick mould, and 
when turned from the mould surround 
with sliced peaches, sugared and chilled. 
Sprinkle the whole with chopped pis- 
tachios or almonds. 

Fruit Fufich. 
Boil one quart of water and one 



82 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



pint of sugar ten minutes ; skim and 
set aside to cool. Now add one pint 
of grape juice, one pint of orange juice, 
and the juice of three lemons. Let 
stand half an hour or longer, and, 
just before serving, add a piece of ice 
or a scant pint of ice-cold water. A 
sliced banana, lemon, or orange may 
also be added to the bowl. 
Grape Juice. 
Wash and stem eight pounds of 



in boiling water, a few at a time, so as 
to retain shape. Strain from the water, 
and for each pound of apple make a 
syrup with one cup of the apple water 
and half a cup of sugar ; reheat in 
the syrup, and store in tight-closed 
sterilized jars. 

Green-Corn Griddle Cakes.. 
Use sweet corn too old for the table. 
Score the kernels lengthwise of the 
ear and press out the pulp, leaving 




MUFFINS. WAFFLE IRON, AND WAFFLES. 



grapes ; add one quart of cold water, 
and let boil fifteen minutes ; stir and 
mash with a wooden spoon, then strain 
through a jelly bag ; add half a pound of 
granulated sugar to each quart of juice, 
let boil twelve minutes, remove scum, 
fill heated bottles, and seal while hot. 
Canned Porter Apples. 
Pare the apples, cut in quarters, and 
remove the cores ; cook until tender 



the hull upon the ear. To one pint of 
pulp add one cup of flour and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper. Beat the yolks of two eggs, 
add one cup of milk, and gradually 
stir into the flour and corn pulp ; fold 
in the whites of two eggs beaten stiff, 
and bake on a griddle. 

Green- Com Oysters. 
To one pint of green-corn pulp add 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



83 



half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of 
black pepper, two beaten eggs, and 
enough flour to hold the pulp together. 
Saute by spoonfuls in a frying-pan, 
first on one side and then on the other. 
Conimeal Muffins. 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter ; 
add three-fourths a cup of sugar, then 
two eggs, beaten, without separating, 
until light-colored and thick ; into this 
stir, alternately, one cup of milk, two 
cups of sifted flour, and one cup of 
cornmeal sifted with four level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Beat thoroughly, 
and bake about twenty minutes in hot, 
well-buttered gem-pans. 

Blueberry Muffins. 

Cream one -third a cup of butter; 
add one-fourth a cup of sugar, a well- 
beaten egg, and three-fourths a cup of 
milk, alternately, with one cup and 
three-fourths of flour sifted with three 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt ; add also 
a cup of berries mixed with one-fourth 
a cup of flour. Bake in a buttered 
agate muffin - pan about twenty -five 
minutes. 

Entire- Wheat Muffins. 

Sift together one cup, each, of entire- 
wheat and white flour, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and 
three and one-half teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder ; mix with one beaten egg, 
to which one cup and a fourth of milk 
has been added ; lastly, add three 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and 
bake in well-buttered roll-pans. 
Rich Waffles. 

Sift together one cup and a half of 



flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and one- fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt ; add the beaten yolks of two eggs 
with one cup of heavy cream, and, 
lastly, fold in the stiff - beaten whites 
of two eggs. Bake on hot, well- 
buttered waflle iron, first on one side 
and then on the other. 

Waffles with Sour Milk. 

Sift together one cup and a fourth 
of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a teaspoonful of soda; 
mix with one cup of thick sour milk 
added to the beaten yolks of two eggs ; 
add three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter and fold in the whites of two 
eggs. 

Fla7inel Cakes. 

Sift together two cups and one-half 
of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
four level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder; mix with two cups of sweet 
milk added to the beaten yolks of two 
eggs; lastly, fold in the whites of two 
eggs beaten stiff. Bake on a well- 
oiled griddle. 

Dutch Peach Cake. 

Sift together two cups of flour, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoon- 
ful of sifted soda, and two level tea- 
spoonfuls of cream-of-tartar ; with the 
tips of the fingers work in one-fourth 
a cup of butter ; beat an ^gg^ add a 
cup of milk, and stir into the dry in- 
gredients ; turn into a buttered pie-pan, 
spread even, and press into the top 
of the dough peaches pared and quar- 
tered. Sift three tablespoonfuls of 
sugar and one of cinnamon over the 
top. Bake, and serve with butter, 
with hard sauce or a hot pudding 
sauce. 



84 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



VEGETARIAN MENUS FOR ONE WEEK IN AUGUST. 



(EGOS, MILK, CHEESE AND BUTTER INCLUDED.) 

We fat all creatures else, to fat us. — Hamlet, iv., 3. 



BIiEA.KFAST. 

Gluten Breakfast Cereal. 

Scrambled Eggs, 

with Stewed Tomatoes and Green Peppers. 

Rye-Meal Muffins, Berries. 

Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Potato Soup. 

Macaroni with Tomato and Cheese. 

String Beans. 

Cauliflower with Mayonnaise. 

Chocolate Ice-Cream. Coffee. 

HTTP PER. 

Entire-Wheat Breadsticks. 

SUced Peaches, Cream. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Grape-Nuts, Cream. 

Eggs Shirred in Tomatoes. 

Swedish Rolls. Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Broiled Mushrooms on Toast. 

Cabbage Salad, Boiled Dressing. 

Boston Brownbread. 

Apple Pudding. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Puree of Mushrooms. 
Cabbage au Gratin. Baked Squash. 
Apple-and-Celery Salad (Mayonnaise Dress- 
ing)- 

Banana Ice Cream. 
Coffee. 



RREARFAST. 


BREAKFAST. 




Vitos, Sliced Peaches, Cream. 


Boiled Rice, Sugar, Cream. 




Broiled Tomatoes. Rye-Meal Muffins. 


Baked Eggs with Cheese. 




Cereal Coffee. 


Cornmeal Muffins, Berries. 




LUNCHEON. 


Cereal Coffee. 




Blackberry Shortcake. 


LUNCHEON. 


C 


Cottage Cheese. Celery. Crackers. 
Cereal Coffee. 


Graham Bread Toasted. 

Celery au Gratin. 
Dressed Tomatoes. 


DINNER. 


70 


Cream-of -Celery Soup. 


Grapes. Tea. 


C/3 
> 


Green-Corn Custard. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 


Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 


DINNER. 


Stewed Pears in Lemon Jelly. 


Bean Soup, Toasted Crackers. 




Cream. Coffee. 


Macaroni with Tomatoes and Cheese. 




SUPPER. 


Egg Plant. 




Milk Toast (Entire- Wheat). 


Corn on the Cob. 




Cottage Cheese. New Rye Bread. 


Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 




Apple Sauce. Tea. 


Bread Pudding with Meringue. Coffee. 




BREAKFAST. 


BREAKFAST. 




Vitos, Sliced Peaches, Cream 


Grapes. 




Green-Corn Fritters. 


Barley Crystals, Cream. 




Yeast Rolls (reheated). Coffee. 


Tomato Omelet. French-Fried Potatoes. 




DINNER. 


Zwieback. Coffee. 




Vegetable Soup (Macedoine). 


LUNCHEON. 


•n 


Stuffed Onions. Spinach with Eggs. 


Succotash. New Rye Bread and Butter. 


2 


Celery-and-Green-Pepper Salad. 


Custard Pie. Tea. 


5 


Rice Pudding with Raisins. 


DINNER. 


> 


Cereal Coffee. 


Cream-of-Rice Soup. 


< 


SUPPER. 


Entire-Wheat Breadsticks. 




Cream-Tomato Toast. 


Cheese Souffle. 




Lettuce-and-Cheese Salad. 


Lettuce-and-Celery Salad. 




Shredded- Wheat Biscuit. 


Grape-Juice Jelly, Whipped Cream. 




Tea. 


Cafe Noir. 





BREAKFAST. 

Gluten Breakfast Cereal, 

Baked Apples, Cream. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Eggs Cooked in Shell. 

Cereal Coffee. 



LUNCHEON. 

Cream of Spinach, Croutons. 

Scotch Shortbread. 

Pickled Beets. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Tea. 



DINNER. 

Cheese Custard. 

Curried Vegetables. 

Cucumber-and-Tomato 

Salad. 

Baked Tapioca Pudding. 

Cafe Noir. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



85 



SEASONABLE MENUS FOR ONE WEEK IN SEPTEMBER. 

He that lives upon hope will die fainting. — Benj . Fratikhn. 



BKEA.KFAST. 

Grapes. 

Boiled Rice, Grated Cheese, Butter. 

Eggs Scrambled with Green Peppers. 

Entire-Wheat Muffins. Coffee. 

Tomato Soup. Chicken en Casserole. 

Green Corn au naturel. 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad, 

Boiled Dressing. 

Blackberry Shortcake. 

Cafe Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Tomato Salad. 

Bread and Butter. Wafers. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Gluten Breakfast Cereal. 

Baked Apples, Sugar, Milk. 

Broiled Salt Mackerel, Cream. 

Mashed Potatoes. Dressed Cucumbers. 

Cornmeal Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 
Cream of Celery (Chicken). 

Baked Loin of Veal, Stuffed. 
Baked Sweet Potatoes. Breaded Egg Plant. 

Cabbage-and-Green-Pepper Salad. 

Sliced Peaches, Cream. Cafe Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Green-Corn Chowder. 

Crackers. Pickled Tomatoes (Green). 

Rye Bread. Cottage Cheese. Apple Sauce. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Grape-Nuts, Berries, Sugar, Cream. 

Veal and Peas in Curry Sauce. 

Baked Potato Cakes. Sliced Tomatoes. 

Vitos Muffins. Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cold Boiled Tongue Sliced Thin. 

Stewed Tomatoes in Green Peppers. 

Baking-Powder Biscuit (Entire-Wheat). 

Watermelon Salad. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of Corn Soup. 

Steamed Fore Quarter of Mutton, 

Caper Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Baked Squash. Buttered Beets. 

Celery-and-Apple Salad. 

Peach Ice-Cream. Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Melons. 

Vitos, Sugar, Milk. 

Hashed Mutton on Shredded-Wheat-Biscuit 

Toast. 

Pickled Beets. Popovers. Cereal Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

I Diced Tongue au Gratin (Flavored with 

Celery). 

Baked Potatoes. Sliced Peaches. Tea. 

DINNER. 

Mutton Broth with Macaroni. 

Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 
Mashed Turnips. Spinach. 

Potato-and-Beet Salad. Grape Whip. 
Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Quaker Oats, Peaches, Cream, Sugar. 

Cold Veal Sliced Thin. Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 

Waffles. Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Veal Broth with Tapioca. 

Mutton Chops, Breaded, Tomato Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Peas. 

Cole-slaw. Grape Sherbet. 

White Cake. ' Cafe Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Creamed Oysters. 

Olives. Toast. 

Berries. 

Cake. Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Barley Crystals, Sugar, Cream. 

Corn Omelet. 

Mutton Hashed with Green Peppers. 

Virginia Batter Bread. Cereal Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Curried Oysters. Boiled Rice. 

Peaches in Lemon Jelly. 

Cereal Coffee. 
DINNER, 

Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons. 

Boiled Swordfish, Pickle Sauce. 
Onions in Cream Sauce. Boiled Potatoes. 

Spinach Salad. 

Green-Tomato Pie, Cottage Cheese. 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Baked Apples. 

Gluten Breakfast Cereal, 

Cream. 

Veal in Brown Sauce. 

Hashed White Potatoes. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Waffles. Coffee. 



LUNCHEON. 

Swordfish Salad. 

New Rye Bread and Butter. 

Apple Pie. Cottage Cheese. 

Cereal Coffee. 



DINNER. 

Cream-of -Lima-Bean Soup. 

Roast Venison, Apple Sauce. 

String Beans. 

Celery Salad. 

Grape Mousse. Coffee. 



86 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 




SPECIAL MENU FOR MIDSUMMER, 

GRAND DINNER. 

Let me bid you welcome to your country, and the longing expectation of the 
friends that have almost languished for the sight of yo\x.—Tke Antiquary, i. 

MENU. 

Pim-olas. Salted Pecans. 

Anchovy Canapes or Little-Neck Clams. 
Consomme en Tasse. 
Broiled Whitefish, Maitre d'PIotel Butter. Dressed 
Cucumbers. Lattice Potatoes. 
Breaded Lamb Chops, Small Lima Beans. 
Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 
Pineapple Sherbet. Philadelphia Capon, Roasted. 
Broiled Fresh Mushrooms on Toast. Celery Salad. Peach Ice-Crfam. Cake. 
Camembert. Xeufchatel. Toasted Crackers. Bar-le-duc Jelly. 

Coffee. 



LAWN PETE. 

This trim sward of velvet green 
Were carpet for the fairy queen. 



Scott. 



MENU. 

Iced Bouillon. 

Sandwiches : Bread and Butter, Sardine^ Cream Cheese, and Nuts. 

Lobster Salad. Chicken Salad. Salad Rolls. Celery. Olives, Salted Nuts. 

Peach Sherbet. Bisque Ice-Cream. Assorted Cakes. 

Coffee. Fruit Punch. 



MENU II. (Simple.) 

Individual Moulds of Chicken, Mayonnaise of Celery. Rolls. 

Assorted Cakes and Wafers. 

Peach Ice-Cream. Cocoa Frappe. 

Lemon.ade. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



^7 



CONCERNING MENUS AND RECIPES. 



In August vegetables are plentiful 
and palatable, and, if one is inclined 
ever to try the vegetarian's diet, this is 
perhaps an auspicious season in which 
to test its virtues. But strong diges- 
tive organs are needed to transform' 
many vegetable products into assimi- 
lable material, and the suggestion is 
offered that at least milk and eggs be 
retained as a part of the diet, until one 
has satisfied himself that a complete 
change to the custom of the vegetarian 
is adapted to his individual case. In- 
deed, without entering into the com- 
parative merits of animal and vege- 
table food, it would seem, since no 
sentient life is taken in the use of eggs 
and milk for food, and since eggs, at 
least, are free from microbian infec- 
tion, that, taking the food value of pro- 
teid into consideration, it were well to 
retain these products to supplement 
the lack of this element in vegetable 
foods. This plan would obviate one 
of the most serious objections to a 
strictly vegetarian diet, namely, the 
large quantity of matter that must be 
ingested in order to secure the proper 
proportion of this important principle. 

Cellulose, the framework of all vege- 
table substances, is, at best, irritable 
to the digestive tract. Of course the 
quantity and toughness of cellulose in 
vegetable products depend much upon 
the kind of plant, and the soil, and 
the season in which it is grown ; but 
under the most- favorable cuUivation 
this framework cannot be entirely elim- 
inated, so that, first of all, thorough 
cooking, by which it is softened, is 
enjoined ; soft water is an aid in this 
process, and, where this is not at hand, 



the solvent property of the water 
may be enhanced by the use of a few 
grains of cooking-soda. This addition 
is less objectionable in the case of 
strong-juiced vegetables, like cabbage 
and onions, from which the water is 
to be carefully drained before serving. 
Quite a different plan should be pur- 
sued with the sweet-juiced vegetables, 
as peas and young beans. Of these 
soda would desfroy the delicate green 
color, while salt would intensify it ; 
little salt, however, should be used, as 
the water in which these vegetables 
are cooked holds in solution much of 
the sweet juices and mineral salts, their 
most valuable constituents, and should 
be retained for serving with them. 

Rapid cooking is desirable for strong- 
juiced vegetables, while a gentle sim- 
mering is preferable for the sweet- 
juiced varieties. 

Cauliflower is richer even than cab- 
bage in proteid, the nutrient value of 
cabbage being one part proteid to four 
of carbohydrate, so that caulitiower 
served on entire-wheat bread, toasted, 
and enriched with a white sauce, to 
which the yolks of two or more eggs 
have been added, would seem to pro- 
vide the full measure of needful proteid, 
and in a form that even the most pro- 
nounced opponent of the vegetarian 
might consider satisfactory. 

If properly taken care of after the 
meal, cold vegetables dressed as salads 
are most appetizing at this season. 
The chief desiderata are tenderness of 
the vegetables, just enough dressing 
and no more, and a chilled state when 
served. 

Cheese combines well with many 



ss 



THE BOSTO.V COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



vegetables, as it does also with grains 
and macaroni. When delicately cooked 
and diluted with appropriate ingredi- 
ents, it may be used, but more spar- 
ingly than in the season when the 
function of digestion is more vigorous. 

In the seasonable menus, the chicken 
en casserole may be cooked by the 
recipe for rabbit en casserole ; the lat- 
ter was called for by one of our sub- 
scribers in California. Here the sea- 
son for rabbits is restricted to Novem- 
ber and December. In some localities 
the season for venison begins the mid- 
dle of August : in others it is later. A 
tip of saddle of venison, in season, 
with tiank removed, may be purchased 
for twenty-five cents per pound, and 
thus cut, since also game is notably 
free from fat, it has little waste, and is. 
in realit}-, more economical than a roast 
of beef or mutton. If pork or bacon 
fat be discarded for basting, the joint 
may be completely enclosed in a paste 
of liour and water; this will keep in 
the juices and obviate basting. A 
cress, celer)^, or lettuce salad should 
accompany this dish, as also currant 
jelly or apple sauce. 

We give in this issue recipes for waf- 
fles and various hot breads, but in 
realit}- September is often a hot month, 
when it were well to omit hot bread 
from the menu except on occasion. 

Mousses and parfaits, the peculiar 
texture of which is produced by freez- 



ing whipped cream, are easily prepared 
ices. The possible combinations for 
these are limited only by the ingenuity 
of those who prepare them. As cream 
is a rich product, it is well, when con- 
venient, to serve with them a fruit or 
water ice, selecting such an one as will 
harmonize with the flavor given to the 
cream. A pineapple sherbet accom- 
panying a peach mousse, or an orange 
sherbet served with a strawberry 
mousse, are truly delectable combina- 
tions. Xo cooking is called for in 
these dishes. The ideal preparation for 
a mousse is simply fruit juice or pulp 
mixed with sugar and combined with 
whipped cream : but, as the mixture of 
juice and sugar is rarely of a consist- 
ency to combine perfectly with the 
froth of the cream without settling to 
the bottom of the mould, a small quan- 
tit}' of gelatine, softened in cold water, 
and dissolved by standing in hot water, 
or over the teakettle, may be added, 
when properly chilled. A teaspoonful 
of gelatine to a cup of juice or pulp 
will suflnce. 

Similar preparations, in which a liq- 
uid, such as coffee, chocolate, or syrup, 
thickened with eggs, and combined 
with cream, is used, are known as par- 
faits. The .cocoa frappe', given in the 
menu for the lawn fete, is ordinary 
breakfast cocoa, half frozen and served 
in glasses. Whipped cream is often 
added to each cup. 






Queries and Answers. 



This department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. 
Questions relating to menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary 
science and domestic econom,ics in general, will be cheerfully answered 
by the Editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the m.onth 
preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. Ifi letters requesting answer by 
m.ail, please enclose postage stamp ; for memcs, one dollar. Address queries to yanet M. Hilly 
Editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, j/^ Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 380.— J/r^-. G. B. C, North 
Ferrisburg^ Vt. : " Recipes for cooking 
pickled tripe.'''' 

Recipes for Tripe. 

Let simmer in boiling water twenty- 
minutes with from half to a whole tea- 
spoonful of soda ; drain, dip in melted 
butter, bacon fat, or oil, then in fine 
cracker crumbs, and broil over a clear 
fire. Serve with quartered lemons. Or, 
drain as before and cook with onion, 
curry powder, stock, etc., as curried 
tripe. Or, after draining, saute with 
onion and finish in a tomato sauce. 
Or, dip in flour and fry in bacon fat. 



Query 381. — A. F. C, Fort/a?id, 
Me. : ^^ Recipe for molasses drop-cakes .^^ 
Molasses Drop-Cakes. 

Pour two -thirds a cup of boiling 
water over two-thirds a cup of shorten- 
ing, add one pint of molasses, and gin- 
ger, cinnamon, and salt to taste. Sift 
one level tablespoonful of soda into 
one quart of sifted flour, and add to 
the liquid ingredients. Drop on to a 
buttered tin from a spoon, and bake 
in a slow oven. If the mixture spreads 
too much in baking, add more flour. — 
Mrs. Taylor. 



Rasped Rolls. 
Use a Parker- House roll or other 
unsweetened roll mixture ; shape into 
balls about the size of an ordinary 
Parker-House roll. Set some distance 
apart on a buttered tin, and when light 
bake, until the whole surface is of an 
uniformly brown color. Grate off the 
outside of the crust in a rasping ma- 
chine. When only a few are to be 
prepared, an ordinary lemon -grater 
may be used, great care being taken 
to remove the crust evenly. 



Query 382. — Mrs. f. E. U., Ash- 
Jield, Mass. : " Recipe for rasped rolls'' 



Query 383.— 7V^ ^. C, Rea, Mich. : 
" How can alum in baki?igpowder be 
detected by housekeepers ? " 
How to Detect Alum in Bakiiig- Powder. 

Alum is the most objectionable sub- 
stance that can be used in baking- 
powders. The most common test is 
as follows : Stir two or three spoonfuls, 
each, of baking-powder and acetic acid 
into a glass of water, and add a few 
drops of a fresh-prepared decoction of 
logwood. If the mixture becomes of 
a yellow color, no alum is present, but 
if bluish, pinkish, or purple color, more 
or less alum is present. Logwood is 
used for dyeing, and can be obtained 
at druggists'. 



Query 384. — Mrs. G. E. C, Skene- 



90 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



aieles, N. Y. : '^Is if possible to keep 
bacon and other odorous foods ift the 
same refrigerator with jnilk and hitter^ 
7vithout injury to these ready absorb- 
ents / " 

One Refrigerator for Butter and Odo?'- 
ous Food. 
Milk and butter may be kept in the 
same refrigerator with odorous food, 
if they be in a separate compartment, 
taking precaution to set the milk and 
cream in the cooler or lower compart- 
ment. Foods may also be kept in the 
same compartment, if each article be 
closely covered, and sufficient ice be 
used to cause a free circulation of air. 



Query 385. — Mrs, K. M. F., Rich- 
mo?id Hill, JV. Y. : "Recipe for straw- 
berry tomato preserve.''^ 

Straivberry Tomato Freserve. 

Cook the yellow rind of a lemon 
and the seeded pulp cut in slices, and 
a bit of ginger root, in boiling water, 
until the water is well flavored with 
lemon and ginger, then strain. For 
each pound of tomatoes removed from 
the husks take half a pound of sugar 
and a cup of the flavored water ; heat 
to the boiling-point and skim, then add 
the tomatoes ; cook until scalded thor- 
oughly, then skim into jars. Boil the 
syrup until thick, adding to it a few 
slices of lemon, selecting lemons that 
are not bitter, and with it fill the jars 
to overflowing. Cover securely. 



Query 386. — J/ri-. H. W. H., 
White Hall, III. : " What work on psy- 
chology would you recommcfid to one 
taki7ig a course of readi?ig on domestic 
scie?ice at hoine / " 

Work on Fsychology, etc. 

' We know of no book on psychology 

adapted specially to this branch of 



teaching (domestic science). White's 
" Pedagogy," and " Education," by 
Herbert Spencer, are considered most 
valuable works in connection with the 
general subject of psychology. For 
answer to other *' queries " see another 
page. 



Query 387.— J/rj-. N. M. W., York, 
Fa. : "Recipe for * curried oyster sand- 
wiches.^ " 

Curried Oyster Sandwiches. 

Probably this name is given to some 
local combination of oysters and curry 
powder in the form of sandwiches, and, 
in the absence of definite particulars, 
we are unable to give the desired for- 
mula. Cold cooked oysters are not 
particularly toothsome ; so we suggest 
chilled raw oysters, dusted with salt 
and curry powder, placed between but- 
tered slices of brownbread, and served 
with olives or cucumbers. 



Query 388. — " Where did I see in 
the Magazine that bread for sandwiches, 
upon being taken from the oven, should 
be wrapped i?i a damp cloth, and left 
four hours, whe?i it would be 7'eady for 
slicing^ ". 

Bread for Sandwiches. 

The recipe referred to is upon the 
reverse of frontispiece in June -July 
issue, 1900. This, however, \s2i special 
recipe. For ordinary sandwiches bread 
is not usually so treated. It would not 
be desirable. 



Query 389. — Mrs. I. H. : "Kindly 
give recipe for suet pudding.''^ 

Suet Fudding 7vith Figs. 

Soak half a pound of stale bread, 
freed from crusts, in cold water, then 
wring in a cloth; add one-fourth a pound 
of suet chopped fine, one-third a cup 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



91 



of sugar, one beaten egg, and half a 
pound of figs, cut fine or chopped. 
Steam in a buttered mould an hour 
and a half. 



Query 390. — Mrs. IT. L. /., Brook- 
field., Mass. : "-Recipes for sultana roll^ 
claret sauce, sand cakes, and frozeii pud- 
ding:^ 

Sultana Roll. 

Line a mould (pound baking-pow- 
der boxes make excellent moulds for 
this dessert) with pistachio ice-cream, 
sprinkle the inner surface of the ice 
with sultana raisins that have been 
soaked an hour or more in brandy. 
Fill the centre with a charlotte-russe 
preparation flavored with vanilla. Pack 
in equal parts of ice and salt, and let 
stand two hours. Serve with claret 
sauce. 

Pistachio Cream. 

Use thin cream, or any preferred 
ice-cream mixture ; tint with vegetable 
green to secure the color of pistachio 
nuts, flavor with equal quantities of 
vanilla and almond extract. Freeze 
as usual. 

Charlotte-Russe Mixture. 

Beat a cup of thick cream until solid ; 
beat the white of an ^^g until dry, then 
add a scant half a cup of sugar and a 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract ; combine 
the two mixtures. 

Claret Sauce. 

Boil a cup of sugar and one-fourth 
a cup of water until slightly thickened. 
Let cool and add four tablepoonfuls 
of claret. 

Frozen Ruddifig. 

Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour 
mixed with three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
in a pint of hot milk, stirring until it 
thickens, fifteen minutes ; beat an egg, 
add one-fourth a cup of sugar and a 
few grains of salt, and stir into the hot 



mixture. When the egg looks cooked, 
add a pint of thin cream, and strain 
into the can of the freezer. When 
cold flavor with one tablespoonful of 
vanilla, and freeze. Have ready a 
pound of French fruit, cut in small 
pieces, and half a cup of chopped 
almonds steeped for several hours in 
sufticient Jamaica rum to moisten them 
well ; stir the fruit and nuts into the 
frozen cream, and pack the whole in a 
melon mould, lined with lady-fingers, 
or not, as is preferred. Press the 
cover down tightly over a paper that 
comes out beyond the edge of the 
mould, and pack in ice and salt, four 
parts of the former to one of the latter. 
Currants, raisins, citron, pineapple, or 
other preserved fruit — one, or a mix- 
ture of several — may be used. If the 
Jamaica rum be not desired, cook the 
fruit and nuts in a heavy syrup until 
tender and well saturated with syrup. 
Serve with a chilled boiled custard, 
whipped cream, or rich sauce. 
Sand Cakes. 
Beat a cup of butter to a cream; add 
gradually two cups of sugar, then three 
eggs beaten without separating, a tea- 
spoonful of flavoring extract, and flour 
sifted with three teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, to make a paste that can 
be easily handled. Roll into a sheet, 
cut in rounds, squares, etc., brush over 
with white of egg, and sprinkle with 
granulated sugar and sliced almonds ; 
bake to a delicate brown color. Bake 
as cookies by the addition of one-half 
to one whole cup of milk. 



Query 391. — Mrs, H. C, H., Xeii>- 
ton, Mass. : " Recipe for rye bread in 
the loaf' 

Rye Bread. 

Rye bread may be made with water, 
but it is verv much better when made 



92 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



with milk. It should be eaten quite 
fresh, as it is rather dry, made with 
either milk or water, after twenty-four 
hours. The new crop of rye is now 
harvested, and home-made rye bread 
is a most delicious addition to a 
dietary. We have been most success- 
ful in making by the same recipe as 
that given in these pages many times 
for white and entire-wheat bread. Use 
wheat flour in kneading, and knead 
thoroughly. Mixed stiff, and with 
board and hands well dredged with 
wheat flour, the characteristic "sticki- 
ness" is avoided. The proportions 
are one pint of scalded and cooled 
milk, one teaspoonful of salt, two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one yeastcake soft- 
ened in half a cup of water, and sifted 
rye flour, to make a stiff dough. 



Query 392. — Mrs. J. E. U., Ash- 
field, Mass. : ^'■Recipe for chocolate mer- 
ingues, shape and size of a small oraJtge, 
inside delicate aftd creamy, outside cov- 
ered with a thick chocolate coating. ^^ 
Chocolate Meringue. 

On papers, on a board one inch 
thick, shape meringue mixture, using 
spoon or pastry bag and plain tube, 
like halves of an orange. Bake in a 
moderate oven about three-fourths an 
hour, without coloring, until the last 
of the baking. Remove from the 
papers at once, invert, and remove any 
uncooked mixture. At serving - time 
fill the halves with sweetened and 
flavored whipped cream, press together 
in pairs, using some of the soft mer- 
ingue to hold the halves together, and 
dip into chocolate fondant or boiled 
frosting, fondant being preferable. 
Meringue Mixtu?'e. 

Use a pound of powdered sugar to 
a pound (one pint) of whites of eggs, 



one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
half a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. 
Beat the eggs until very foamy ; add 
the salt, cream-of-tartar, and half of 
the sugar, gradually, beating vigorously 
between each addition of sugar ; when 
a knife drawn through the mixture 
leaves a clean cut, fold in the rest of 
the sugar. 
' Boiled Eros ting for Merifigties. 

Boil two cups of granulated sugar 
and one cup and a fourth of water fif- 
teen minutes. Stir in confectioners' 
sugar to make of the proper consist- 
ency, flavor, and set in a pan of hot 
water while dipping the meringues. 



Query 393. — A. H., Harlem, N. Y. : 
^^How do you. add beaten eggs a?id cream 
to a hot 7nixture,^^ etc., etc. ? 
How to Add Eggs to a Hot Mixture. 

Beat the eggs, dilute with cream, 
and then with a spoonful or two of the 
hot mixture ; stir, and add very gradu- 
ally to the mixture, which should not 
boil thereafter. It should be removed 
from the fire or set in hot water. 
Lobster a la Newburgh. 

Lobster \ la Newburgh may be pre- 
pared in a double boiler. 

» Baked Fish. 

As a general rule, do not remove the 
head and tail of a fish for baking. 
Skewer and tie in the shape of the let- 
ter S, or fasten the tail at one side 
of the head after passing it through 
the sockets of the eyes. Bake in a 
dripping-pan, agate preferred, resting 
on a fish-sheet (a flat piece of agate 
or tin ware punctured with holes and 
having handles at each end). This 
should be raised from the bottom of 
the pan a little; it is very convenient 
in removing the fish to the serving- 
dish. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



93 



How to Boil Corned Beef. 

Cover with cold water, bring slowly 
to the boiling-point, then let the water 
bubble slowly, but continuously, on one 
side of the kettle, until the meat is 
tender. Return whatever is uneaten 
to the kettle, and let cool in the liquid. 
The number of minutes for cooking 
per pound depends upon the quality 
of the meat, and also upon the cut. A 
piece from the fancy brisket, which is 
close and fine-grained, will take at 
least an hour longer than a coarser- 
grained piece from the neck or ribs. 
A piece weighing four or five pounds 
would need at least five hours of gentle 
simmering, and a piece two pounds in 
weight could not be properly cooked 
in much less time. It is better to 
allow plenty of time, and, if necessary, 
set aside in the hot liquor. 

Recipe for Cream Mayonnaise. 

To a pint of mayonnaise dressing, 
made in the usual manner, fold in, at 
serving-time^ from one-fourth to a whole 
cup of stiff-beaten cream. Use, for 
tinting pink, green, or orange, the vege- 
table color pastes found on the market. 
Bouillon. 

Heat the marrow before putting in 
the meat. Put the water in which the 
meat is soaked, the meat and bone, 
the browned meat and the liquid added 
to the- frying-pan, all together into the 
soup kettle. 

Boston Brownbread. 

A mixture made with a pint of liquid 
should be steamed at least three hours 
in a single mould ; in three or four 
small moulds, about two hours. Longer 
steaming will not injure the bread. 
Entire-wheat flour is a fine flour made 
from the entire-wheat grain after the 
husk has been removed. As it" con- 
tains the germ of the wheat, it does not 



keep well, and should be bought in 
small quantities. 

Fat for Frying Clam Fritters. 

The kind of fat to be used for frying 
is largely a matter of individual taste. 
Many housekeepers, who are not vege- 
tarians, prefer vegetable oils prepared 
for the purpose, or cottolene, made 
from the firm fat of beef and cotton- 
seed oil ; while there are those who 
object to the use of anything but lard. 
Potato Salad. 

Cut the potatoes in shapes be- 
fore cooking, blanch by pouring cold 
water over them the moment they are 
cooked and drained; adapt the onion 
and celery to your taste ; an equal 
quantity, or less, of celery and a table- 
spoonful of onion would be enjoyed 
by some. Use chopped eggs if you 
like, or, for a change, use the eggs cut 
in quarters or in slices as a garnish. 
A garnish, no matter what it is, should 
not be added until after the body of 
the salad has been dressed. 
Poached Eggs. 

To boiling water add salt and one 
or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place 
where the water does not bubble, break 
in the eggs, which must be fresh, in 
order to keep in shape. Let stand 
without boiling until cooked. The 
water should not quite cover the ^g'g. 
Remove with a skimmer, trim, if neces- 
sary, and slide on to the toast. Fresh 
eggs, and water at the right tempera- 
ture, are all that are needed. 

Milk for Clam and Oyster Stew. 

Milk for this purpose should be hot. 
Tomato Catsup. 

Scald half a bushel of ripe tomatoes 
and remove the skins; add half a cup 
of salt, one pound of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper, three 
tablespoonfuls, each, of ground mace 



94 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



and celery seed, two tablespoonfuls 
of ground cinnamon, and two quarts 
of vinegar. Boil slowly until reduced 
one-half, then pass through a sieve ; 
reheat, and store in sealed bottles, or 
in tight-closed cans. A larger quantity 
of spice is desired by many. 

Recipe for Plain I^aste with Butter. 

Sift into a chopping-bowl one cup 
and a half of flour and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and baking- 
powder ; flour the blade of the knife, 
and chop into it half a cup of butter, 
mix to a paste with cold water, turn 
on to the floured board, and work into 
shape with a knife ; then pat with the 
rolling-pin, and roll out into a rectan- 
gular sheet; fold so as to make three 
even layers ; turn and roll the paste in 
the opposite direction. Fold and roll 
once more if desired, or use without 
further working. 

Gi'ceii- Grape Jelly. 

Wash the grapes and remove from 
the stems ; add a cup of water to keep 
them from burning, cover, and cook 
until soft, then drain in a bag. Re- 
heat the juice while the sugar is heat- 
ing in the oven ; \vhen the juice boils, 
skim, and add a cup of sugar for each 
cup of juice ; keep well skimmed, and 
cook until the mixture jellies slightly 
when tested in a cold glass. After the 
juice is drained from the pulp, express 
the remainder of the juice, and proceed 
as before, making a second grade of 
jelly. Lemon juice can be added if 
desired. To preserve the grape flavor, 
cook no longer than it is necessary to 
soften the grapes. 

Batter Pudding. 

Cook half a cup of flour, mixed with 
a cup of cold milk, in a cup of scalded 
milk ; stir until the mixture thickens, 
then add four tablespoonfuls of butter; 



beat the yolks of four eggs, add one- 
fourth a cup of sugar, and stir into 
the first mixture ; when the egg looks 
cooked, remove from the fire, and fold 
in the stiff-beaten whites of four eggs. 
Turn into a buttered baking-dish, and 
bake, standing in a pan of hot water, 
about thirty minutes. Serve with sab- 
ayon sauce or 

CREAMY SAUCE. 

Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup 
of water fifteen minutes ; then beat 
into a cup of whipped cream, and flavor 
with vanilla or wine. — Miss Wilson. 

SABAYON SAUCE. 

Beat the yolks of four eggs until 
light-colored and thick ; add half a cup 
of powdered sugar, and beat again. 
When ready to serve, add four table- 
spoonfuls of sherry, and cook over hot 
water, until slightly thickened, stirring 
constantly. 

Steamed Peach Pudding. 

Sift together one pint of pastry flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, two level 
teaspoonfuls of baking- powder, and 
one-fourth a cup of sugar. Stir into this 
one beaten egg mixed with three table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter and half a 
cup of milk ; then, as the mixture is 
turned into a buttered mould or cups, 
add a generous cup of sliced peaches. 
Steam half an hour in cups or a full 
hour in a mould. 



To Subscribers. 
We have accumulated a list of names 
of recipes desired by our inquirers, for 
which we are unable to give the exact 
formulas. We should be pleased to 
have any one who is able send one or 
more of these recipes ; we will publish 
the same, accrediting to the sender. 
A few of the list follow : " Pecan 
Sticks;" "Margaret Deland Cakes; " 
" Rich Taylor Cakes, That Puff Up ; " 
" Clam Chowder, Boston-Market Style 
and Fulton-Market Style; " '* Cocoanut 
Taffy" (a cake); "Small Cucumber 
Sweet Pickles, That Do Not Shrink ; " 
" The Cause of Shrinking in Pickles, 
Sweet and Sour." 




-fe>. 




^^IT^Q^^ 



News and Notes. 



' Address communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor 

of the Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, 
Boston, Mass. 



The graduating exercises of the 
Xormal Class at the Ijoston Cooking- 
School took place June 26, The fol- 
lowing are the names of the gradu- 
ates : — 

Anderson, Emilie G., Whitewater, Wis. 

Bates, Lillian K , Wollaston, Mass. 

Bl'rxham, Caroline M., South Byfield, 
Mass. 

Chase, Sara A., South B) field, Mass. 

Crosby, Nellie B., Lovell's Island, Bos- 
ton Harbor. 

Dewey, Grace E., Concord, Mich. 

Eads, Eleanor F , Paris, III. 

Eaton, Luella A., Auburn, Mass. 

Flood, Eloise P., Wollaston, Mass. 

Fowler, Grace R., Wollaston, Mass. 

Gibson, Mary W., Medford, Mass. 

Hatch, Mary F., Bradford, Mass. 

Havens, Coral R , Lansing, Mich. 

Hill, Sarah C, New Brunswick, X. J. 

Kirkpatrick, Nettie M., Salem, Mass. 

Lewis, Gertrude M., Brockton, Mass. 

Loverage, Jessie, Rochester, N. V. 

Mackenzie, Kate, Norwich, Conn. 

Newhall, Abhy L., Lynn, Mass. 

Penfifld, Alice P., Cleveland, O. 

Rogers, Grace L , Newton Centre, Mass. 

ScHwiND, Gertrude M., Cleveland, O. 

Stowell, Myra E., Worcester, Mass. 

Welch, Mary H., Dedham, Mass. 

Wheeler, Marion B., Worcester, Mass. 

Willey, Mary H., Newmarket, N. H. 

WiLL^, Grace T., Winchester, Mass. 



Miss Grace T. Wills, 1900, has ac- 
cepted a position at the Alfred Corn- 
ing Clark Settl^jpient House, New 
York City. She is to take charge 



\vomen and boys, devoting the morning 
to instruction in the homes of the pu- 
pils. 

Mrs. Caroline D. Jordan, instructor 
in psychology and chemistry at the 
Boston Cooking-School, recently gave 
a lecture upon " Method Applied to 
Teaching," before the Educational As- 
sociation of Concord, N. H. The lec- 
ture proved of great interest to a large 
audience. 

Miss Alice Bradley, Class of '97, who 
has just returned from a successful 
second year as principal of the domes- 
tic-science department of the Montreal 
Young Women's Christian Associa- 
tion, has charge of a summer school 
in cookery, for high-school pupils, at 
the Hyde Park high -school building. 
The lessons are to continue six weeks. 



Miss Emily Marion Colling is lec- 
turer and principal of the cooking- 
school at Mount Gretna, the Pennsyl- 
vania Chautauqua. 

At the close of that assembly she 
will go to Mountain Lake Park, the 
Maryland Chautauqua, where she will 
fill a similar position. 



Stella Dodge, Class of '99, is at the 
Harnot Hospital, Erie, Penn. Miss 
Dodge decides upon the necessary 
supplies, purchases the same, and sup- 



of afternoon and evening classes for erintends their cooking. 



96 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



Miss Stella Downing, Class of '99, 
returns next year to the Erie (Penn.) 
School of Domestic Science. Much 
enthusiasm was displayed throughout 
the year in this work, which was a new 
venture in Erie. Diplomas and certifi- 
cates were given to fifty-three pupils. 



Miss Nonie W. Jones, Class of '99, 
has lately been appointed instructor in 
cookery at the school connected with 
the Y. W. C. A. of Denver, Col. 



Miss Mary J. Gannon, Class of '97, 
died at her home in Concord, N. H., 
in June, after an illness of about seven 
weeks. Up to the time of her illness 
she was engaged in teaching cookery 
in the public schools of Concord, to 
which position she was elected in 
April, 1899. She was born in Con- 
cord in 1854, graduated from the high 
school of that city in 1873, ^^^^ taught 
school in Northern New Hampshire 
and in Concord for about eight years, 
when failing health forced her to give 
up this occupation. Recovering her 
health, for several seasons she took 
charge of the cookery department of 
several large hotels in the mountains, 
at beaches, and in Florida. In 1897 
she joined the Normal Class at the 
Boston Cooking- School, and, after 
graduation, established a private school 
of cookery in her native city, which, 
at the time of her death, she was con- 
ducting in connection with the work 
in the public schools. Miss Gannon 
is remembered as an earnest, enthusi- 
astic, and conscientious pupil, one who 
left a marked impression in a class, 
of which the young women have been 
eminently successful in organizing pri- 
vate schools, or as principals of schools. 



Brockton, Mass., April 6, 1900. 
Dear Mada?n, — I was much interested in 
the letter from Riverside, Cal., published in 
the April-May issue of the Boston Cook- 
iNG-ScHOOL Magazine. Two years ago I 
^pent several months in that place, and took 
pains to become acquainted with the market, 
prices, etc. I think it would be a very easy 
matter there to set a table well on three dollars 
a week for three persons. Beef is perhaps a 
little higher than in our Eastern markets ; lamb 
is cheaper, and excellent ; fowl, eggs, milk and 
butter are about the same in price as here. 
If there is a man in the family who is a fairly 
good shot, it is a very simple matter to obtain 
rabbits and quail for the table, as they abound. 
The jack-rabbit is very palatable, the cotton- 
tail very nice, and, as a bounty is given for 
killing them, the market price must be low. 
Oysters are small and high, salmon much 
cheaper and nicer than with us. Lobsters are 
cheaper ; they are larger, too, and more tender, 
though they have no claws. Fruit is plenty, 
and cheap. Dates, bananas, and pineapples 
do not mature there, and are higher than with 
us. English walnuts, pecans, almonds, raisins, 
grapes, oranges, peaches, apricots, are plenty 
in their season, — so plenty that, with a few 
friends, the persons who raise none will not 
need to buy much. The Chinamen raise vege- 
tables and sell them from door to door. In 
January and February they sell enough spin- 
ach for a family of six or seven, a head of 
lettuce, two or three beets, and a carrot, for a 
a small " bit," or ten cents, and for a " large 
bit " (fifteen cents) will throw in a large bunch 
of extra nice celery. Other vegetables sell 
accordingly ; strawberries, peas, beans, etc., 
can be had at a moderate cost throughout the 
winter, but in the early spring are abundant 
and very cheap. Honey is much nicer than 
with us, and very cheap. Olives and olive 
oil are cheap and nutritious. 

Mrs. F. W. S. 



Mme. Sarah Grand, who wrote the 
once-much-talked of novel, "The Heav- 
enly Twins," has been giving her views 
about her sex. She declares that with 
women pastimes hav^ become a vice. 
The chief reason for the dearth of hap- 
piness, in her estimation, is bad cook- 



THE BOSTON COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



97 



ing. The culinary art she declares to 
be the noblest a woman can qualify in, 
and she hopes that as English women 
have revolutionized nursing they will 
revolutionize cooking, and when they 
have done so the perfection of the lat- 
ter will render a good deal of the 
former unnecessarv. 



BERLIN' MEDICAL STUDENTS TO 
LEARX COOKING. 

The directors of the Berlin Univer- 
sity have ordered that in future all 
students of medicine shall take up the 
study and practice of cooking, as they 
recognize the vast importance of its in- 
fluence on the human system. 

— /. D. la V. 



Baking-powder as a culinary adjunct 
is not, apparently, known in France as 
it is in this countr)'. Our esteemed 
friend and colleague, M. A. Colombie, 
superintendent of the Paris School of 
Cookery, recommends its use, and de- 
scribes it as " Levure Anglaise,'" con- 
sisting of two parts of cream-of-tartar 
and one part of bicarbonate of soda. 
Perhaps some enterprising English 
firm of manufacturers of baking-powder 
will communicate with M. Colombie 
with a view of introducing genuine 
baking-powder into the Paris School. 
The address is Ecole de Cuisine, 5, 
Cite d'Antin, Paris. — Food and Cook- 
ery, London, i8gg. 



A law has been passed in the State 
of Minnesota which requires that all 
manufacturers of baking-powders shall 
print on the label of the packets a 
list of the ingredients of the powder. 
The Grocers' Association of Minnesota 
have passed a resolution urging the 
members to sell only such powders as 



are labelled in accordance with the 
provisions of the law. Something of 
this kind ought to be done in this 
country, as there are but few baking- 
powders on the market demonstrated 
to be pure, healthful, and free from 
alum. — Food and Cookery, London. 



DOCTOR'S FOOD TALK. 

SELECTION OF FOOD ONE OF THE MOST 
IMPORTANT ACTS IN LIFE. 

Old Dr. Hanaford of Reading, 
Mass., says in the Messenger : ''Our 
health, and physical and mental hap- 
piness, are so largely under our per- 
sonal control that the proper selection 
of food should be, and is, one of the 
most important acts in life. 

" On this subject I may say that I 
know of no food equal in digestibility, 
and more powerful in point of nutri- 
ment, than the modern Grape-Xuts, 
four heaping teaspoons of which are 
sufficient for the cereal part of a meal; 
and experience demonstrates that the 
user is perfectly nourished from one 
meal to another. 

•• I am convinced that the extensive 
and general use of high-class foods of 
this character would increase the term 
of human life, add to the sum total 
of happiness, and very considerably 
improve society in general. I am free 
to mention the food, for I personally 
know of its value." 

Grape-Xuts food can be used by 
babes in arms, or adults. It is ready- 
cooked, can be served instantly, either 
cold with cream, or with hot water, or 
hot milk poured over. All sorts of 
puddings and fancy dishes can be 
made with Grape- X'uts. The food is 
concentrated, and very economical, for 
four heaping teaspoons are sufficient 
for the cereal part of a meal. 



98 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



BOOK REVIEWS. 



THE OlEKX'S TWIN. Hy Sarah 
Ornc Jcwett. 16mo. rricc, $1.25. 
Boston : Hoiuihton, Mifflin ^ Co. 

Here is a small volume of short 
tales by a well-known writer of stories. 
The Queen's Twin, A Dunnet Shep- 
herdess, Where's Nora, Bold Words at 
the Bridge, Martha's Lady, The Coon 
Dog, Aunt Cynthy Dallett, and The 
Night before Thanksgiving make up 
the list. Each portrays a bit of scen- 
ery, or gives a sketch of character in 
the more common walks of life, that is 
altogether natural and pleasing. No 
intricate plot, tragic event, or maudlin 
sentiment excites or vexes the reader. 
Though free from incidents of an ab- 
sorbing, exciting nature, the narratives 
are interesting, pleasing, and whole- 
some. 

True to life, they are fitted to satisfy 
the wants of a leisure hour, and leave 
no trace of weariness or feeling of re- 
gret for time ill spent. The volume is 
admirably suitable for reading on a 
summer outing, or for intellectual di- 
version from more exacting: efforts. 



LAUNDRY MANUAL. By L. Ray 

Balderston and M. C. Limerich. 

Uhiladelphia: Avil Printing Co. 

This manual was prepared by the 
director of the department of domestic 
science in Boardman Manual Training 
School, New Haven, Conn., and an in- 
structor of domestic science in Drexel 
Institute, Philadelphia, Pa.; it has been 
used in these respective schools for 
several years. The entire subject is 
treated in a comprehensive and scien- 
tific manner. As an outline of lessons 
or a course of study, the book is much 
more elaborate than it is in matters of 
practical detail ; still, few questions in 
reference to this branch of domestic 
science are likely to arise that one will 
not find answered here. 

The chapter on the Equipment for 
a Home Laundry, general rules and 
processes of washing, and that on 



Stains, are full of useful information 
and practical suggestion. The illus- 
trations, drawn especially for, this book, 
are designed to show clearly the meth- 
ods of folding garments. 

The housewife and laundress will 
find this book useful both for refer- 
ence and as a reliable guide in the 
actual processes of laundering the 
plainest or the most delicate fabrics. 



HANDBOOK OP DOMESTIC SCI- 
ENCE AND HOUSEHOLD ARTS. 
Bv L. L. V\. Wilson. Cloth, l6nio. 
Price, 60 cents. New YorK : The 
Macmillan Company. 
A great deal of material has been 
brought together in this volume. It 
is the result of the combined efforts of 
•' several experienced teachers to put 
into a form helpful to others that which 
they themselves have gathered with 
much labor." According to the editor, 
" one of the chief merits of the book 
lies in the fact that each chapter, by 
design, contains much more material 
than can possibly be used, under the 
most advantageous circumstances, in 
the single month in which it is placed ; 
the teacher is thereby enabled to give 
a single course or several courses a- 
dapted to her own peculiar needs and 
facilities." This statement suggests 
the character and scope of the work. 

There is no lack of information in 
the book ; still it is specifically a man- 
ual for teachers, an outlined course 
of study for more elaborate courses of 
instruction. In the hands of earnest 
teachers, excellent results might be 
secured from its use in elementary 
schools, either public or private. One 
of the best features of the book is the 
bibliography that accompanies each 
chapter. In this reference is given to 
sources of information that is invalu- 
able, on subjects, too, where informa- 
tion is sadly needed ; for certainly, in 
reference to most phases of domestic 
science, there is dearth of literature. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



99 



COOKING AND SE\\I\G SONGS 
AND KECITATIONS. Edited by 
Mrs. J. B. Romer. Flexible cloth. 
Price, 50 cents. New York : J. \\. 
Schermerhorn ^ Co. 
These songs were written specially 
to be used with Mrs. Romer's cooking- 
lesson cards in industrial and mission 
schools, and have been set to familiar 
and popular airs. " Little Buttercup," 
" Comin' thro' the Rye," and favorite 
college airs like " Upidee " and " Jin- 
gle Bells," indicate the lively and at- 
tractive nature of the music. 

Mrs. Romer was for many years a 
manager in the Home for the Friend- 
less in New York City, and had the 
supervision of one of its industrial 
schools. The songs and a series of 
cooking-lesson cards bear testimony to 
her zeal and enthusiasm in a success- 
ful attempt to introduce industrial work, 
and especially cooking, to classes of 
young girls, where its influence for 
good must be most far-reaching. 



THE TELLING OF STORIES. 

Stories to the normal child are as 
necessary as the air it breathes, but the 
true and inspired story-teller is rare. 
That a number of young women gifted 
in this particular should turn their 
talent to financial account is quite a 
natural sequence. One young woman 
in this city who has adopted this work 
as a distinct profession, not only goes 
from house to house, telling stories to 
children to relieve tired mothers and 
distracted fathers, but applies her gift 
as well in a general way in the conduct 
of children's parties, where stories, 
monologues, games, and songs furnish 
entertainment for the young company. 
It has been found that mentally defi- 
cient children can often be reached by 
means of a story, and this work is in- 
cluded usually in that part of the pro- 
fessional story-teller. — Margaret Ha7n- 
ilt07i Welch. 



INTENDED FOR OTHERS. 

DIFFICULT TO BELIEVE ADVICE APPLIES 
TO US. 

" While reading the morning paper 
at breakfast, I frequently read over the 
advertisements of Postum Food Cof- 
fee, and finally began to wonder if it 
was a fact that my daily headache and 
dyspepsia were due to coffee-drink- 
ing. 

" It never occurred to me that the 
warning fitted my case. 

•' I had been on the diet cure for 
more than ten years, having tried a 
strictly meat diet, also a strictly vege- 
table diet, and at other times left off 
breakfast for a time, and again left off 
dinner, but all these efforts were futile 
in ridding me of the steady half-sick 
condition under which I labored. 

" I had never once thought of over- 
hauling ' dear old coffee,' but, when it 
finally occurred to me to make the trial 
and take up Postum, I immediately 
discovered where the difficulty all these 
years came from. I now eat anything 
for breakfast, as much as I desire, doing 
justice to a good meal, and the same 
at lunch and dinner, with never a head- 
ache or other disagreeable symptom. 
My only ' crankiness ' now is to know 
that I have Postum served as it should 
be made, that is, properly boiled. 
There is a vast difference between 
poorly made Postum and good. 

"C. E. Hasty, of Alameda, Cal., 
insists that he owes his life to me be- 
cause I introduced him to Postum. I 
have a number of friends who have 
been finally cured of stomach and bowel 
trouble by the use of Postum Food 
Coffee in place of regular coffee. 
"Please do not use my name." 
D. J. H., 1223 Bremen Street, Cincin- 
nati, O. 




Housekeeper's Memoranda. 

For the present, this page will appear in this position in each 
issne of the']Ap^GKZm^. 



To Re?nove Fresh lea and Coffee 
Stains. — Place the stained linen over 
a large bowl and pour through it boil- 
ing water from the teakettle, held at a 
height to insure force. 

To Remove Old Tea a?id Coffee Stains. 

— Soak in cold water first, then use 
boiling water, as above. 

To Remove Cocoa a?id Chocolate Stains. 

— Use cold water first, then boiling 
water, as above. 

To Remove Cla?'et Stains from Table 
Linen. — As soon as possible cover the 
stains with salt ; let stand a few min- 
utes, then rinse in cold water. 

To Remove Fruit Staifis. — Pour 
boiling water over the stained surface. 
Arrange the cloth in such a manner 
that the water passes through a single 
thickness and from a height above it. 

To Remove Obstinate Fruit Stains. — 
Use three ounces of oxalic acid to one 
pint of water. Wet the stain with the 
solution, place over a kettle of hot 
water in the steam or in the sunshine. 
Rinse well the instant the stain disap- 
pears ; wet the stain with ammonia to 
counteract the acid remaining. Then 
rinse it thoroughly again. 

To Remove Blood Stains. — Use 
clear, cold water at first, then soap 
and water. 

To Remove Ink Spots from Gingham. 

— Wet the spots with milk and cover 
them with common salt. Let stand 
some hours, then rinse in several 
waters. 



To Remove Ink Spots. — Put one or 
two drops of oxalic acid on the spots, 
rinse in several waters, and finally in 
ammonia. 

To Remove Grass Stains. — Allow 
the spots to remain saturated with al- 
cohol for a little time, then wash in 
clear water. 

To Remove Mildew. — Use lemon 
juice and sunshine, or, if deep seated, 
soak in a solution of one tablespoonful 
of chloride of lime in four quarts of 
cold water until the mildew disappears. 
Rinse several times in clear water. 

To Remove Red Iron Rust. — Cover 
the spots with salt, moisten with lemon 
juice, let stand a time, adding more 
salt and lemon. If not successful with 
these, use for fast colors muriatic acid. 
Spread the cloth over a large bowl of 
hot water, touch the dry spots with a 
drop or two of the acid ; when the rust 
disappears, rinse several times in clear 
water and then in water in which there 
is a little ammonia. 

Platts Chlorides . 

The Household Disinfectant 
instantly destroys foul odors and 
disease-breeding matter, preventing 
much sickness. 



An odorless, colorless liquid ; powerful, safe 
and economical. Sold in quart bottles only, 
by Druggists and high-class Grocers. Prepared 
only by Henry B. Piatt, Piatt St., New York. 
When you write Advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 



THE 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Vol. V. 



OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER, 1900. 



No. 3. 



THE BEWILDERMENT OF MR. SAMUEL BOWEN. 

By Clara T. Clark. 



The telegram which Mr. Bowen 
holds in his hand evidently puzzles 
him. He reads it to himself, then 
reads it aloud, and from that gives 
vent to several and sundry ideas, which 
have been chasing themselves through 
his mind for the last five seconds. 

'''Do not forget T. Hurt: Now, 
isn't that a woman all over .'' No ex- 
planation; nothing said; simply 'Don't 
forget T, Hurt ; ' and I, Samuel Bowen, 
sleeping and voting in Haverly, sixty 
miles away, and here in this city, in 
this hotel, for a trifle less than twenty- 
four hours on urgent business, and my 
wife, knowing it, telegraphs me to look 
up some man I never heard of, for 
some reason I never knew." 

Here Mr. Samuel Bowen, the sole 
occupant of the room, again reads the 
telegram, and continues his bewildered 
comment : " 'Do ?iot forget T. Hurt: 
Who is this Hurt? Where is this 
Hurt ? Is he here or in Zululand ? 
Am I to run him for president, or fetch 
him to dinner ? I don't know. 

" I always thought Marian different 
from other women ; but she's just the 
^ame, — hare-brained, unreasoning, off 
•at half-cock. They're all alike. I 



may as well spend all my time looking 
up this Hurt, and let business go. 
Marian never does ask anything un- 
reasonable, but I fail to see any reason 
in this. By the way, perhaps I've gone 
on that proposition long enough. Per- 
haps I've been blind, and thought there 
was reason in everything she did. B} 
Jove, I'll put my foot down from this 
time forth. I'll begin now; I'll make 
this a sample case." 

After this decision there is perfect 
silence in the room for the space of 
one minute. At the end of that time 
Mr. Bowen rises, goes to the bell and 
rings. 

" I may as well make a few inquir- 
ies," he says to himself. " Mr. Hurt 
may be right here in this hotel, and 
Marian knew I could easily find him. 
But why should she say, ' Don't forget 
T. Hurt'? Have we talked him over, 
and have I forgotten ? Is my mind 
going ? " 

At this juncture there is a knock at 
the door, and the bellboy enters. 

" Boy, do you know a gentleman by 
the name of Hurt in this hotel? Mr. 
T. Hurt — Thomas, or Timothy, or 
Tobias Hurt," he ends minutely. 



I02 



THE BOSTOX COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



"I don't know nuthin' 'bout the 
people's names," answers the boy. 
" Brought you some ice water. Any- 
thin' else, sir ? " 

" No, nothing," in a tone resigned 
to ice water. 

The boy goes out, and Mr. Bowen, 
reaching for his hat and gloves, pre- 
pares to do likewise, having a vague 
idea, as he glances at the cool sil- 
ver pitcher, of putting the ice on his 
head to help fathom the mystery. As 
he passes the office, on the way to the 
street, he suddenly thinks it may be as 
well to look in the hotel register for 
the name of Hurt. It will take but a 
moment, and then he can go about his 
own affairs with a clear conscience. 
So, turning back, he makes his way to 
the desk, and, calling for the great 
book, rapidly runs his eye down the 
columns, paying special heed to first 
names beginning with T. Several 
names give him pause, and he com- 
ments on them mentally, as follows : — 

•' T. Abbott and wife, three children, 
and maids. If such a crowd is coming 
to our house, Marian and I and our 
three children will have to camp in the 
garden. Thomas Daly, Thaddeus JVeia- 
comer, 2. S. S?nith. Was there ever a 
list without its Smith, I wonder ? T. 
Hart. Could Marian have meant 
Hart ? " and, struck by the similarity 
to the name of Hurt, Mr. Bowen beck- 
oned to the clerk, and interrogates 
him : — 

" Is this gentleman here now — this 
Mr. HartV 

"Yes, sir; room 48. Would you like 
to see him ? " 

"Yes; — that is, I think so. Where 
is he from ?" 

" He's in from the country. I guess 
he can see you this morning," proffers 
the all-knowing clerk ; " he's better." 



" Better?" 

" Beg your pardon, sir, but as he's 
a friend of yours " (here the all-know- 
ing one lowers his voice to a whisper), 
" the truth is, he's been drinking pretty 
hard lately, and we had to — " 

" He's no friend of mine." Mr. 
Bowen draws back stiffly, but then pre- 
cipitately changes his manner to one 
of remonstrance, for the all-knowing 
has his hand on the bell. " Pray, don't 
ring," he implores. " I'm looking for 
a Mr. Hurt, — Mr. — ^ er — " (drawing 
on his imagination) ^^ Thomas Hurt. Is 
there such a person here ? " 

" No, sir." 

"Sure?" 

" Sure." 

As Mr. Bowen leaves the desk he 
spies his friend, Frederick Somers, 
striding across the office, grip in hand. 
He immediately hails him. 

" Maybe Fred will know something 
about this stranger," he ejaculates, as 
Mr. Somers, seeing him, turns in his 
course toward the door. 

'' Hello, Bowen ! Where'd you spring 
from?" 

" From Haverly, as usual. I say, 
Fred, do you know a T. Hurt in this 
town ? Somebody just come, probably. 
Fact is, I've had a blind telegram from 
my wife. See; here it is," and Mr. 
Bowen pulls the telegram from his 
pocket, and reads it aloud. " ' Do ?iot 
forget T. Hurt.' And I don't know a 
Hurt." 

" Sam Bowen, if I had a blind tele- 
gram from my wife, do you know what 
I'd do?" 

"No." 

" I'd telegraph straight back and 
find what she meant." 

" I suppose I should have thought 
of that in time. So far my mind's 
been — " 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



lO 



"Hurt." 

''Humor doesn't sit well on you, 
Fred." 

"Poor Sam! Poor old, distracted 
Sam ! I'm sorry for you." 

Sympathy, however, does not entirely 
fill Mr. Somers' soul; for with the 
words he glances at the clock on the 
wall in front of him. 

"Sorry I can't stop," he says, "but 
I've got to get that next boat. It'll all 
be right, Sam, old fellow, I'm sure. 
You'll not be in doubt long with that 
bright, little wife of yours managing 
things. Let me know how this Hurt 
affair comes out." 

"I will," promises Mr. Bowen read- 
ily enough, as his friend leaves him. 

To expedite matters, he decides to 
act at once on Mr. Somers' advice, and 
send a telegram to Marian. It will 
do no harm, though it may prove a 
very slight thing to send a telegram 
about. It is all undoubtedly a fault of 
memory. Mr. Bowen is inclined to 
smite his forehead by way of outward 
expression, but thinks better of it, and 
goes to the telegraph office, where he 
sends a despatch to his wife, — a de- 
spatch having, at least, the manly virtue 
of going straight to the point. 

''Who is T. HiirtV is the laconic 
inquiry. 

With this deed done, and feeling a 
somewhat firmer grip on the universe, 
he is walking briskly away, when he 
hears a familiar feminine voice calling 
his first name, and, at almost the same 
moment, finds the owner of the voice 
beside him. It is Dorothy, Marian's 
sister. 

"Why, good morning, Dorothy," 
says Mr. Bowen, making his bow to 
this charming apparition. 

Now, Dorothy is young and fairly 



good-natured; but just now she is de- 
cidedly out of breath from hurrying 
after him, and vexed in consequence. 

" You must have /<?;z- league boots 
on, Sam," she complains. " Why don't 
you have your eyes about you in a 
place like this, crowded with your 
friends and relatives.?" 

"Don't scold, Dorothy; pity me." 

" I thought I was pitying myself." 

" How are Marian and the chil- 
dren 1 " she next inquires. 

" They're well, unless Marian has 
telegraphed about that." 

" Telegraphed, Sam ? I don't know 
anything about it." 

" Suppose we go into the parlor," 
he suggests; for Dorothy, severely and 
faultlessly dressed in street costume, is 
apparently ready to go out. " And 
while you get your breath I'll make up 
for the * ten-league boots ' by telling 
you all I know." 

" Will it take long?" 

" That's unkind." 

" For I've an engagement at the 
dressmaker's." 

"A shade better. No: it won't take 
long. Woe is never long-winded." 

" Why do you say 'woe,' Sam? Is 
anything the matter at home ? " asks 
Dorothy anxiously. " What is it all 
about?" 

" I don't know." 

" Really, Sam, you'll have to be 
quick. Madame Elsie is a tyrant, and 
I must be on time," says Dorothy, very 
emphatically. 

" That's your city rush." Mr. Bowen 
speaks slowly, perhaps by way of con- 
trast to the ' city rush,' wondering, 
at the same time, if the small head 
outlined against the window, as Doro- 
thy sits in front of it, holds a solution 
of the Hurt problem. " You all talk 



I04 



77//-; /H)S'rOX COOA/\U-SC//OOL MACAZIXE. 



with your watches in your hand. Not 
time even to do a kindness. I just 
met Fred Somers, and he was on a 
jump for a boat, and now you're on a 
jump for a dressmaker. Now, if you 
lived in Haverly — " 

"If that's what you want to talk 
about, Sam, I'll say right here that 
I've no intention of going to the back- 
woods." 

. " It's to get me out of the woods, 
sister mine. It's a woman's wit against 
a woman's — woman's — " 

"Now, don't say it. It's something 
unkind, and I won't have anything 
said against Marian," and Dorothy 
made one or two decisive gestures with 
her gloved right hand. " She's the dear- 
est, the most wonderful — " 

" Wait till you hear this most won- 
derful telegram ; " and again Mr. Bo wen 
drags the telegram from his pocket and 
reads it aloud. 

"Well, what's the matter with it, 
Sam ? " 

" I know no T. Hurt, and never 
knew a T. Hurt, and Marian never 
knew a T. Hurt; that's all." 

"Why didn't you telephone right 
back to Marian and find out } " 

" Telephone ! Please observe, Do- 
rothy, Marian has telegraphed. Our 
backwoods is opposed to telephones. 
There are none." 

" I prefer civilization." 

" It is convenient in a crisis." 

" Have you telegraphed ? " 

" I have ; and, while waiting the de- 
liberation of the Haverly operator, I 
thought kind Dorothy would help me 
guess the answer." 

" Let me see it, Sam." 

He hands her the telegram, and she 
looks at it, exclaiming almost imme- 
diately : — 



" It's as plain as day." 

"Good; you're a wizard, Dorothy: 
you're in league with Marian, or you'd 
never say that." 

"Now, listen. The operator has 
made a mistake." 

" That's reasonable." 

" He has bungled with those first 
words ; " and Dorothy again bends 
over the little slip of yellow paper. 
" Marian probably said, ' See at Pal- 
ace T. Hurt ; ' or she mentioned the 
name of some other hotel in this town, 
and the stupid creature has put any- 
thing he liked." 

" It happens to be a woman at the 
Haverly end, mademoiselle." 

" Man or woman, there's a mistake ; 
thafs the point : and besides, it's all 
that could be expected of Haverly," 
ends Dorothy, raising her head and 
looking disdainful. 

" It strikes me you're down on the 
country." 

" Indeed I am. I believe in being 
m things, and where things are, as long 
as you're on this earth. Somtimes I 
almost weep at the idea of Marian 
buried alive in such a place." 

" She likes it. She has me, you 
know." 

" It's no' laughing matter, Sam." 
There is just the suspicipn of a break 
in Dorothy's voice. Then she turns 
again to the telegram still in her hand. 

" Could it be," she goes on in her 
natural voice, " that Marian noticed in 
the papers after you left the name of 
this Mr. Hurt, a friend she wanted you 
to see, or some one on business you 
wanted to see — " 

"But how—" 

"Don't interrupt; I might lose my 
next idea : or it may be that Mr. Hurt 
came after you left, and it's, ' Here 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



\0'' 



with me, T. Hurt,' and she wants you 
to hurry back and see him." 

" But, in the name of all your wis- 
dom, Dorothy, how could I have a 
friend I never heard of, — or how could 
Marian, for that matter, — or a busi- 
ness engagement with the same anom- 
aly?" 

" H'm — yes ; I see." 

''Well; I don't." 

" I'm wrong." 

*' Noble girl to confess." 

" I don't mean that. I was only 
supposing, anyway. But I'm sure that 
operator has made a mistake. How 
it was made you must find out some- 
way, for I must be going." Here Dor- 
othy looks at her watch and rises in 
great haste. 

"Gracious, Fm late! " she exclaims, 
turning to leave the room without more 
ado. " Why did you keep me, Sam ? " 

" How could I help it," gallantly 
observes her brother-in-law, trying to 
keep up with her rapid pace as he fol- 
lows her out of the parlor. 

" You must be sure and let me know 
all about Mr. Hurt, Sam," she says, as 
they wait a moment for the elevator. 
"Let me see him sometime," she adds. 

" Now, Dorothy, more wiles," her 
brother is minded to say provokingly. 
" Now, do leave this precious stranger 
alone." 

"The idea," comes floating back to 
him as Dorothy is carried down and 
away. 

Mr. Bowen now returns to his room, 
deciding, as he has waited so long, to 
wait a little longer, for his wife's an- 
swering telegram. 

"This morning's work is a fair sam- 
ple of what this earth would be with 
just women on it," he soliloquizes. 
" Their lack of forethought and clear- 



sightedness is phenomenal. Every- 
thing at loose ends. A man would 
go mad — stark mad. 

" The Marian I know, and the Ma- 
rian of this telegram, are two different 
people," he continues, striking the of- 
fending telegram with the backs of his 
fingers, for he has picked it up again. 
" I always thought that Jekyll - and - 
Hyde story a bit of human nature ex- 
aggerated ; that we all had something 
of it in us : but, I declare, I never 
thought it was coming out in my own 
family. 

" Odd, after all these years.'' At 
this point Mr. Bowen rests his head 
dreamily on the back of his chair. 
" Marian has always been so wise and 
practical about everything ; about the 
children and the house; and yet she 
has kept up with other things too. I 
think it was Somers — or somebody — 
said it was so unusual to find a woman 
like Marian up in all the new-fangled 
notions, and yet combining them beau- 
tifully with useful things. Dear little 
woman ! She seemed to have a natural 
genius for everything. 

" I wonder if I have been demanding 
too much of Marian." Here Mr. 
Bowen assumes an upright position in 
his chair. " After all, she's only a 
frail, weak woman. Can it be pos- 
sible that Marian has broken down ; 
that this Hurt affair is an hallucina- 
tion ; that her mind — Great God ! my 
wife Marian, the sanest, strongest of 
human beings — " He springs from 
his chair in his agony, but sinks into 
it again on second thought. " What 
a fool to get worked up over that ! 
It's no such thing. 

" It may be nervous prostration com- 
ing on. I believe they have hallucina- 
tions in that. Is that thing conta- 



io6 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SC HOOL MA.GAZIXE. 



gious, I wonder ? Out in that whole- 
some country, how could Marian catch 
anything ? I suppose it's in the air, and 
travels. Poor darling ! She's been 
trying to carry the universe. I see it all 
now ; — always thinking of others, — of 
me, — of the children. It's too much 
for any woman. What a blind fool I've 
been ! 

" And then, she's probably alone too 
much, just as Dorothy says. (Dear Dor- 
othy ! She nearly cried about it, and I 
laughed at her; but she's wiser than 
I am.) I thought the children occu- 
pied Marian ; and she's often in town. 
She's always cheerful. It was evidently 
forced. My poor Marian ! My poor, 
broken - spirited Marian ! From this 
time forth you will find me a different 
husband!" 

This last sentence Mr. Bowen says 
aloud, and very solemnly, rising from 
his chair, and unconsciously lifting his 
right hand as though taking an oath. 

" I have been the cause of it all, my 
uncomplaining, dearest wife. I'll go 
home this minute, and I'll stay till 
you're yourself again. What's busi- 
ness? I'll devote my life to you. 
What is it, anyway, compared with 



yours ? Grand, noble woman, hiding 
all your troubles until you give out 
under it ! " 

Mr. Bowen has actually deposited 
several articles in his travelling-bag, 
preparatory to going home, when there 
is a knock at the door and a telegram 
is handed him. He tears it open, feel- 
ing it must be a last message from his 
wife. He has almost forgotten T. Hurt. 
The telegram reads : — 
" Shirts. Shirts. Shirts. 

'' M. BOIVEN-'' 

" It wouldn't have cost Marian any 
more to have said it ten times," criti- 
cally remarks Mr. Bowen, after he has 
mastered the three words. " H'm ! I 
should have forgotten those shirts." 

After a few more minutes he takes 
out the first telegram and examines it 
closely — microscopically. 

" Well, that's writing and a half ! " 
he exclaims at length. " The capital 
S, a T, and separated from the rest of 
the company like a sworn enemy; and 
the little letters all run together." Then 
he puts by the telegram, and observes 
softly : " It'll take considerable of a 
diplomat to know just what to say to 
Fred and Dorothy — and Marian." 




THE BOSTOX COO KI XG-SC HOOL MAGAZ/XE. 



lO' 



SUGGESTIONS FOR HOME NURSING. 



Bv M. C. Limerick and L. R. Balderstox 



T/ii' Sickroom. 

LOCATION. 

Ix acute cases of illness the sick- 
room should be as far removed from 
the noise of the street as possible, on 
the sunny side of the house, and capa- 
ble of thorough ventilation. An upper 
floor is preferable, because of dryer 
and purer air. If a room on the lower 
floor be used, germs of disease may be 
carried upwards. If the house is in 
the country, the prevailing winds should 
be considered, and a northern expos- 
ure avoided. 

FURXISHIXG. 

In building a home one should al- 
ways consider a sickroom. Let the 
tioor of this room be painted or oiled, 
and always without a carpet. The 
walls should be painted some delicate 
bright color, that they may be washed 
when necessary. Place only shades 
at the windows. 

Let the furniture be very simple, — 
neither upholstered nor elaborate wick- 
er, — the bed of brass or iron, two and 
one-half feet high. The cover for the 
bureau and washstand should be of 
washable material, plain towels being 
better than covers that will not wash. 
Rugs may be used on the tioor. 

When one is not fortunate enough 
to have an ideal sickroom at her dis- 
posal, and must prepare an ordinary 
bedroom for a patient, as far as pos- 
sible make this sanitary. This may 
be done by dusting the walls thoroughly 
with a cloth, and wiping the carpet 
with a cloth wet in a disinfecting solu- 
tion. Cover the carpet of a room to 
be used for an operation with a sheet. 



If an ordinary bed must remain in 
the room, use one-half for the day and 
the other half for the night. Remove 
all needless furniture, and take down 
hangings of every kind. An invalid's 
table is a useful article ; it is better 
than a tray, as it can be used for read- 
ing and writing, as well as for serving 
meals. 

In chronic cases of illness the mat- 
ter of furniture is rather different. In 
such cases the room becomes the con- 
stant abiding-place of the invalid, and 
must be made attractive. For hygienic 
reasons it is always well to avoid fancy 
things, stuffed and tufted furniture, 
and hangings that cannot be washed. 
The room may be brightened by 
changes in furniture. This may be 
accomplished by changing the pictures 
and bringing fresh, dainty things into 
the room. 

HEATING. 

A grate or an open fire affords the 
most sanitary way of warming a sick- 
room. A gas stove, if used, should 
be connected with the chimney, that 
there may be an outlet for impure air, 
and, without this connection, it should 
not be used. 

If there is a radiator in the room, 
always keep a kettle of water on this. 
In case of a stove, have the coal put 
into pieces of paper or bags before it 
is brought into the room, to deaden 
the noise of putting coal on the fire. 
Have an ashpan to avoid removing 
ashes with a shovel. 

LIGHTIXG. 

If the room be very light, the bed 
should be so placed that the patient 



oS 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCIIOOL MAGAZIXE. 



will lie with back to the window, and 
a screen may be used. In some cases 
of illness the room must be darkened, 
but, unless special directions are given, 
keep it light and cheerful. In summer 
time an awning softens the light. The 
shades should be so arranged that 
there will be no flapping when the 
windows are open. This produces an 
irritating noise, and unpleasant flashes 
of light. If the shades must be down 
while the windows are open, the edges 
may be held w^ith pins. The light at 
night should always be cut off by a 
screen. Such a screen may be quickly 
made by fastening a piece of cardboard 
to the shade with wire. 

A screen for the room may be made 
by placing two high-back chairs near 
each other, and spreading a sheet over 
them ; or a clotheshorse may be used 
for the frame. 

TEMPERATURE. 

Hang a thermometer in the middle 
of the room, and keep the temperature 
as even as possible. For lung trouble 
it should be kept at about 70° Fahr., 
but in fevers lower (about 65° Fahr.). 
The temperature of the patient be- 
comes lower at night, between the 
hours of twelve and four a.m., the vital 
powers being at their lowest ebb. In 
serious illness the patient must be care- 
fully watched, and hot drinks be given, 
and extra blankets and hot-water bags 
applied, if the body temperature de- 
creases. The temperature of the room 
must be regulated by opening and clos- 
ing the register and using extra cloth- 
ing, not by closing the windows and 
thus shutting off the supply of fresh air, 

VENTILATION. 

Ventilation is circulation (pure air 
displacing impure air). Professor You- 
mans declared four things necessary 



to secure good ventilation : First, pure 
air must get in ; second, impure air 
must get out ; third, the supply must 
be sufficient; fourth, there must be no 
offensive current. 

A window-board is the most inex- 
pensive and valuable means of ventila- 
tion. A board, four to six inches in 
height, is fitted exactly in the window- 
frame, the sash is raised, the board 
placed in position, and the window 
closed on the board. Lower another 
window at the top for the outlet of 
impure air. The window-board not 
being available, open a window, top 
and bottom, being careful never to 
have a draught. 

If there is an open fire in the room, 
drop a window at the top for the pure 
air to come in ; the impure air will go 
out the fireplace. When the weather is 
too hot for a fire, a candle or small 
lamp may be placed in the grate. Pure 
air is always essential for persons in 
health ; it is much more important 
for those who are ill. The air of the 
room must be kept pure and fresh. 

To keep a room cool in hot weather is 
not always an easy thing to accomplish, 
but, with a little care and forethought, 
it can be made fairly comfortable. 
After the room has been thoroughly 
aired in the morning close the blinds 
and windows during the day, shutting 
out the hot air and sun ; open them 
in the evening; the room will be cooler, 
and the patient will have a more com- 
fortable night. One method, which 
gives a very cool appearance to the 
room, is to place branches of trees in 
a tub with water and ice, and set it in 
front of the window. Another method 
is to hang a wet sheet in the room. 
In winter a hot, dry air, that is irritat- 
ing, may be moistened by a kettle of 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



109 



boiling water, or a hot brick placed in 
a pail of water. 

There is little danger of the patient 
taking cold in bed, therefore it is well 
to give an air bath to the room once 
or twice a day. This may be done by 
covering the patient with extra blan- 
kets, tucking them in around the body, 
then opening the window. When the 
air of the room has been changed, close 
the window, letting the patient remain 
covered until the temperature of the 
room is again the same. Remove the 
blankets gradually, so as not to make 
the change too marked, and the invalid 
will be more comfortable for the fresh air. 

CARE OF THE ROOM. 

If there is a carpet in the room, wipe 
this with a disinfecting solution. Rugs 
should be taken out and well shaken, 
and the floor washed up every day 
with a broom, covered with a canton- 
flannel bag, wet slightly; or a mop may 
be used. Burn dust, if any is taken 
up ; wipe furniture with a damp piece 
of cheese-cloth. 

Towels, covers, and all soiled things 
must be removed, and fresh ones put 
in their places. All vessels must be 
emptied as soon as used, and no soiled 
clothing, or anything not perfectly 
clean, left in the room. It must be 
remembered that the sickroom is the 
home of the patient during the time he 



is in it, and great pains should be 
taken by the nurse to keep it clean, 
bright, and cheerful. Medicines must 
be put out of sight, and the bottles 
kept clean. All glasses containing 
medicine must be covered ; if disin- 
fecting solution be necessary, it must 
not be where it will be seen. 

Flowers in the sickroom are not 
objectionable unless they have a heavy 
odor. They should not be kept in 
the room at night, and the water should 
be changed daily. The cheerfulness 
they afford may render their presence 
desirable. 

In an adjoining room or hall certain 
things should be kept for the nurse's 
convenience, to avoid unnecessary go- 
ing up and down stairs. A window 
box in winter, or a nursery refrigerator, 
is very useful. 

The Nurse. 

A person who attends or nurses a 
patient should wear cotton dresses, 
with little starch, and shoes that are 
light and noiseless. Aprons without 
starch are always necessary, and mus- 
lin cuffs may be used to protect the 
dress sleeves. 

A trained nurse has said that a 
nurse's qualifications should be ability, 
common sense, gentle firmness and 
decision, knowledge of cleanliness, and 
willingness to obey orders. 



I lO 



THE BOSTON COO KIXC-SCIIOO L MAUA/JXK. 



SOME DUTIES OF A WAITRESS. 

By Catherine J. Coolidge, formerly of Drexel Institute. 

PART V. 

Care of the Pantry. 



The duties which the waitress meets 
in the pantry may be considered under 
the following heads : — 

1. Piling and preparing the soiled 
dishes for washing. 

2. Care of food left from the meal. 

3. Washing and wiping dishes. 

4. Care of dishpans, dish towels, and 
sink. 

5. Cleaning silver. 

6. Care of sugar bowls, salt cups, 
etc. 

These duties are oftentimes found 
most burdensome. Is it not usually 
because she does not spend time 
enough in arranging the necessary 
utensils and in properly preparing the 
dishes for washing? Five additional 
minutes spent in carefully gathering, 
scraping, and rinsing the dishes will 
save at least fifteen minutes in washing 
and putting them away, besides the 
ease with which this part of the work 
may be done. 

Utensils and Materials Required in the 
Care of the Pantry. 

I strainer for the sink {solid tin side, but 
perforated on the bottom ; holes about -^. inch 
in diameter). 

I granite-ware dishpan. 

I granite-ware rinsing-pan. 

I small fibre tub. 

I granite-ware pitcher (wide-mouthed, for 
soaking the silver). 

I dish drainer. 

I soap shaker. 

1 dish mop. 

2 dishcloths. 

I soft brush for cut glass. 

I soft brush for cleaning silver. 



Silver towels. 

Soft crash towels. 

I box of whiting. 

I box of electro-silicon. 

I box of putz pomade. 

I bottle of ammonia. 

I bottle of alcohol. 

6 pieces of flannel (5 inches square, for 
scouring). 

Old damask napkins. 

I chamois skin. 

I large box of basswood or boxwood saw- 
dust. 

The sink strainer should be placed 
just over the opening into the drain, 
and all liquids from the dishes should 
be poured through it. 

The dishcloths should be made of 
soft crash; if made of old crash towels 
not too much worn, they can be more 
easily handled. 

The "silver" towels are used for 
glass, silver, cups and saucers, and 
all small, delicate dishes. The crash 
towels should be used for the remain- 
ing dishes. 

Dish towels are commonly made one 
yard long, but, if the crash towels are 
one and a quarter yards, they will be 
found more convenient in wiping plat- 
ters, vegetable dishes, etc. 
Pili?ig the Soiled Dishes and Preparing 
Them for Washing. 

The pantry should be supplied with 
enough shelves for the safe disposal of 
the soiled dishes as they are brought 
from the dining-room. As soon as 
time can be spared from the dining- 
room, the waitress should ^scrape the 
dishes quietly and thoroughly, and 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



I I I 



pile all of the same size and kind to- 
gether. Use a bit of bread for scrap- 
ing glassware, delicate dishes, soup 
ladle, fish knife, etc. 

Pour all liquid waste from the dishes 
through the strainer into the sink. 
Empty and wash the strainer before 
beginning to wash the dishes. 

Put the silver in a pitcher filled with 
warm (not hot) soapy water and allow 
it to soak while scraping the other 
dishes. Do not soak knives with 
pearl, bone, or ivory handles, but put 
them aside and wash and wipe them, a 
few at a time, so that the handles do 
not go into the water. 

Fill the milk and cream pitchers, 
Avhipped- cream bowl, ice-cream dish, 
and egg dishes with cold water. 

Arrange the glass near where the 
dishpan is to stand, then the cups 
and saucers, pitchers, silver, etc. The 
plan is this, — to place the cleanest 
dishes nearest the dishpan and grade 
them from the pan, until those most 
soiled are farthest away. 

Care of Food Left from the Meal. ' 

As the food is brought from the 
dining-room, send it immediately to the 
kitchen, that it may be cared for there, 
and may not be in the way in the 
pantry. 

There should be a special receptacle 
for all solid table refuse. The liquid 
waste should be poured through the 
tin strainer in the sink. At the end of 
each meal the garbage must be emptied 
into the garbage bucket out of doors. 

In summer, to prevent foul odors 
and insure perfect cleanliness, the 
bucket should be frequently rinsed 
with a solution of chloride of lime or 
other good disinfectant. 

Washing and Wiping Dishes. 

Fill the dishpan with moderately hot 



suds. If the size of the pantry permit 
of its use, fill the rinsing -pan with 
clear hot water, and place it next the 
dishpan. 

The sink may he used for rinsing 
dishes, but never for washing them 

Wash the glass first. Cut glass 
may be cleaned with a soft brush. 
Handle each piece very carefully ; 
place it in the water sideways and 
turn it about quickly, so that every 
part will be equally heated as soon as 
possible. Great care must be taken 
to prevent scratching the glass, even 
in the slightest degree, either by con- 
tact with other dishes or by a grain of 
sand in the dishpan. Even a slight 
scratch weakens the glass, and at that 
point it is prone to break. Probably 
many a valuable piece has been de- 
stroyed in this way. 

Rmse the glass and wipe without 
draining. 

After wiping cut glass, it is a good 
plan to pack it in a box of basswood 
or boxwood sawdust, where it should 
remain until the moisture has been 
absorbed from all the corners which 
the towel could not reach. When dry 
polish with a clean, soft towel, and 
finally with chamois. 

Always handle fine pieces of clean 
glass with a chamois, that they may 
not be dulled by finger marks. 

Use basswood or boxwood sawdust, 
because other kinds are likely to scratch 
the glass, and sawdust of resinous 
woods leaves a pitchy deposit which, 
is very difl&cult to remove. The saw- 
dust may be used repeatedly if well 
spread and dried each time after using. 

Glass dishes used for serving ice- 
cream should stand, until they have 
taken the room temperature, or they 
will break when put into hot water. 



I 12 



THE BOSTOX COO K I XG-SC HOO L MAGAZIXE. 



When washing the dishes, put only 
one kind and shape into the pan at 
one time; for instance, wash and wipe 
all the cups first, then the pile of 
saucers ; next, the small plates, and 
so on. Pitchers, vegetable or other 
large dishes with handles, should be 
washed one at a time. 

Dishes decorated in gilt and delicate 
colors should not be washed with very 
hot water or strong suds, and should 
be removed from the water as soon as 
possible. 

As the silver is wiped, it should be 
placed on a tray covered with a clean 
towel. 

After washing steel knives (case 
knives) scour them with bath brick or 
sand soap, then rinse them in warm 
water. Perhaps what was said in a 
previous article regarding the cleaning 
of carvers will bear repeating. Carvers 
should not be cleansed with hot water 
(according to an intelligent - looking 
butcher), because it ruins the temper 
of the steel. Wipe them with soft 
paper, and, if necessary, scour them ; 
rinse quickly in lukewarm water to 
remove the brick. Wipe quickly. Un- 
less stained, use only paper in clean- 
ing them. If bone or ivory knife 
handles become spotted and stained, 
rub vigorously with a paste of whiting 
and water. Use the same preparation 
for removing tea and coffee stains 
from the bottom of cups and tea- 
pots. 

• The dish-water must be changed 
after washing the glass and silver (if 
the quantity is l-arge), and again after 
washing the small pieces of china. It 
is a good plan to put away all the clean 
dishes before refilling the dishpan with 



fresh water. This leaves room for 
the other dishes as they are washed. 
Always leave the dishpan free from 
grease. 

At least once a week pour a hot 
solution of washing-soda down the 
sink and follow it with a large quan- 
tity of hot water. 

Use soda and water in the following 
proportions : — 

^- cup of washing-soda. 

2 quarts of boiling water. 

Heat them together until the soda 
is dissolved. 

Use all this solution, boiling hot, for 
one application. 

If, through carelessness or neglect, 
the sink pipe becomes clogged with 
grease, treat it with a solution four 
times as strong. Some housekeepers 
always keep a piece of washing-soda 
over the sink strainer during the day, 
and the constant wash of the water 
dissolves the soda and keeps the pipe 
free from grease. Even after this 
treatment the hot application should 
be made occasionally. 

Washing the Towels. 

Fill the small tub with lukewarm 
suds and soak the towels for ten min- 
utes. Wash the towels, then the mop 
and dishcloths. Rinse in two changes 
of clear, cold water, and hang them out 
of doors to dry. 

Use a fresh towel for the glass and 
silver. 

Unless the number of dishes is very 
large, only four towels should be in 
use at one time. Washing the towels 
daily after luncheon and dinner,'^with 
the additional weekly washing and 
boiling, should keep them in excellent 
condition. 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SC HOOL MAGAZIXE. 



I I 



HOME APPLICATION OF COOKING-SCHOOL METHODS. 

Bv Alice E. Whitaker. 



The natural conservatism of house- 
keepers is a potent reason why cook- 
ing-school methods advance slowly. 
The popular delusion that cooking- 
schools teach extravagance is another 
reason for the truth of the statement 
that "scientific cookery is one of the 
least accepted reforms." Ignorance, 
too, of what cooking-school methods 
really are prevails to a great extent. 
The National Grange recently pub- 
lished a list of topics to be discussed 
by the thousands of members all over 
the country, and one was the question 
whether cooking-school methods are 
adapted to the ordinary home. Many 
women's clubs, also, have discussed 
the same topic with seriousness and 
interest, but always with much theo- 
rizing. 

During the past few years several 
opportuoities to test the practical value 
of cooking-school methods have come 
into my own home, where small econo- 
mies are by no means neglected or un- 
necessary. After several years of board- 
ing-house life as a rest from housekeep- 
ing, I again took up the cares and 
responsibilities of a home of my own. 
The first help in my newly established 
kitchen was a young Irish widow, who 
had kept her own house, and naturally 
had become settled in some of her house- 
keeping convictions. Innovations on 
her old methods were made slowly but 
successfully, and she enjoyed the re- 
sults of accurate methods. Yet, once 
in a while, the bread would have a 
" tang." Then she would acknowledge 
having mixed it the night before, and 



found it raised too much that warm 
summer morning. She confessed it 
was more work on a hot evening to 
get out bowl, flour, and yeast, mix the 
bread, and then hurry to knead it in 
the morning before she could begin 
the breakfast; but the force of habit 
made her occasionally take all that 
trouble, when she knew the conven- 
ience and the inevitable success of 
making five-hour bread. It was the 
height of her ambition to make a per- 
fect pie, and she reached it. She did 
not attempt a great variety, but after 
eleven months I was happy to have 
her leave me with ability to earn in- 
creased wages as a cook in a small 
country hotel, where I am sure the 
wayfaring man and woman could find 
a well-broiled steak, light, sweet bread, 
vegetables well seasoned, and excel- 
lent specimens of New England pie, as 
a result of cooking -school methods 
learned in my kitchen. 

My next experience was with a young 
colored girl not out of her teens. Her 
first task was to prepare some vege- 
tables for soup. !Much to my surprise, 
she cut the potato first in slices one 
way then in an opposite direction, and 
turning it, yet intact, down on the 
plate, she deftly sliced it in regular- 
shaped cubes after the most approved 
cooking-school method. When I asked 
where she learned this, she replied : 
•' In the public school." Then I knew 
there was good foundation for future 
instruction, and so it proved ; but her 
severe illness soon after cut short our 
progress as teacher and pupil. 



114 



THE A'OSTOX COOA'/XC-SCnOOL MAGAZ/XE. 



The next in the procession of kitchen 
help was a little spare colored woman, 
about forty years of age, who had been 
in the North about two years. Here 
would seem to be the least hope of 
teaching new ways, and getting im- 
proved results ; but her interest was 
at once roused by the illustrations in 
a modern cook-book, and, as she could 
read, she often made this text-book 
her companion when resting in the 
afternoon or early evening. The col- 
ored cooks' famous inability to bind 
themselves to rules and recipes had a 
notable exception in Hannah, who 
would follow requirements exactly, 
although, if I happened to be near, 
she would often say : " Reckin dat 
about right ? " But this was only an 
appearance of guessing; in reality she 
was accurate as a machine, and often 
said, in a pleased tone : '' Reckin Ise 
learnin' sumpin new every day." 

The uncongenial climate made her 
an invalid, and once more there was a 
vacancy in my kitchen. This was filled 
later by a colored girl, who had spent 
more than a year at Hampton Institute, 
Virginia. She was systematic to the 



letter in her work, and the instruction 
in household arts she had received at 
that school proved a good foundation 
for another experiment. She took the 
books used at the cooking - school as 
authority to be relied on, and followed 
recipes without deviation. I often ex- 
plained or called attention to principles. 

Circumstances made it necessary for 
her to go South again, and her successor 
is a tidy maid from the Provinces, who 
came to me with habits of extreme 
neatness and some knowledge of sim- 
ple cookery. Although she has never 
been in a cooking-school, or heard a 
demonstration lecture, her deft manner 
of measuring and mixing, her taste in 
garnishing, and her faithfulness to 
school methods would do credit to a 
normal graduate, and certainly her 
habit enhances the comfort of the fam- 
ily, to say nothing of economy. 

This humble experience is submitted 
with the hope that it may have some 
weight in the argument that cookery 
be made something more than a con- 
tinuous series of experiments,* and that 
it may reach, eventually, the dignity of 
a science, even in the home kitchen. 



'WAY DOWN ON THE PLANTATION, 

By Kate M. Post. 



What you say, Miss Becky? 

Miss Jinnie gwin ter school, 
Whar dey larns " mestic science, 

An cookin' by a rule ? 

Dis yur " mestic science" — 
Dat's sumpun new fo' sho ; 

But what she larn ter cook fo' ? 
Dat's what I wants t' know. 



Ain't I dun cook good 'nough, 
Since ebber she was bohn ? 

Dey ain't no rules for makin' 
A puddin' ob de cohn. 

Doan she play de music, 
An' make dat lobely lace, 

A sittin' on de gal'ry — 

Ain't dat Miss Jinnie's place? 



Dis yur " mestic science," 
Dat mought be good t' know 

But when she fry de chicken 
Den Dinah's boun' ter go. 



THE ROSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



115 



THE MIXING AND BAKING OF CAKE, 

By Janet M. Hill. 

Cake is acceptable at every kind of luncheon; in fact, cakes were invented for that meal, 
for five-o'clock tea, weddings, and for schoolboys only. — Wyveryi. 



In this article we are to consider 
those forms of dough and batter to 
which, after cooking, the term "cake" 
is applied. Thudicum speaks of cakes 
as "forms of sweetened, flavored, and 
ornamented bread that signalize an 
evolution of cookery, and, like confec- 
tionery, or including it, are a measure 
of culture." He adds: " The produc- 
tion of novelty has, in our opinion, 
very small chance of success, particu- 
larly after the acknowledgment of Ca- 
re'me that he had failed in it." 

There is much of sentiment con- 
nected with different varieties of cake, 
which, apart from any intrinsic merit 
contained therein, commend them to 
their sponsors. 

Probably the cakes of greatest an- 
tiquity that are still in use are those 
lightened with yeast, as French brioche, 
Polish baba, kugelhopfe of the Ger- 
mans, ratan cake, claimed by both the 
French and Germans, English Bath 
buns, and Scotch shortbread. The 
forms in which these cakes appear are 
numerous, varying with the object for 
which they are intended. They are 
modified also by the addition of fruit, 
nuts, etc. Sometimes, too, they are 
served with a rich syrup, flavored with 
wine, in which case they partake more 
of the character of a pudding. 

In respect to manipulation, these 
cakes may be classed under two heads, 
of which brioche and ratan cake may 
be taken as representatives. Brioche 
is partly flaky, and rises in layers ; 



while the ratan cake rises like sponge 
cake, in minute and uniform bubbles. 
While these cakes are common abroad, 
especially in the countries to which 
they owe their origin, outside of our 
large cities they are not well known 
to housekeepers in the United States. 
And, though in the cities there seems 
to be an increasing demand for this 
sort of toothsome dainty, yet, because 
of the time required for the prepara- 
tion of all yeast mixtures, many house- 
keepers do not attempt the production, 
but depend for a supply upon some 
restaurant of noted excellence. Cof- 
fee cakes and zwieback (the last prop- 
erly called biscuit, because literally 
twice baked) are the most common 
forms of these confections. 

Xear akin to the ratan cake is the 
election, or loaf cake, so common in 
the early days of our republic. 

What is sold abroad as biscuit, and 
here as sponge cake, and cakes made 
with butter, and known as cup and 
pound cakes, are the cakes most in 
evidence in this country. Of these, 
sponge cake and pound cake, when 
tradition is followed, are lightened 
simply by the expansion of air incor- 
porated into eggs by beating. Cup 
cakes are lightened partly by this 
method, but principally by the addition 
of carbon dioxide set free from a car- 
bonate by an acid, as described in the 
article on " Batters and Doughs," in 
the August - September issue of this 
magazine. 



i6 



THE BOSTOX COOK J XG-SCIIOOL MAGAZIXE, 



No article on cakes would be com- 
plete without special mention of mer- 
ingues and petits choux^ or cakelets 
made of choux paste. Of the first 
Thudicum says: "Meringues are clas- 
sical confections, having a good pros- 
pect of immortality, as they cannot 
easily be improved, spoiled, or altered. 
They have probably a history of more 
than a thousand years." Swedish 
meringues, in which starch supplies 
the place of a part of the egg whites, 
are a confection that may be classed 
with sponge cake. Petits choux may 
be regarded as the connecting link 
between cake and pastry ; they afford 
us ground for considering, as do the 
French, the matter of cakes as a part 
of the general subject of pastry. These 
cakes are made of a batter previously 
boiled, and eggs; the hollow centres, 
when baked, are filled with sweetened 
and flavored cream or a custard mix- 
ture. 

Prelim inaries. 

Before beginning to mix cake have 
everything needed at hand, and in 
such condition that the ingredients can 
be put together quickly ; />., — 

1. Measure or weigh out the exact 
quantities of the different ingredients 
to be used. Weight is preferable to 
measure, especially in the case of but- 
ter. 

2. Sift the flour before measuring, 
and sift again with the baking-powder, 
or soda and cream-of-tartar. 

3. Pulverize and sift soda before 
measuring, and add always to the flour; 
baking-powder is better sifted, but it 
may be made light by working with a 
spoon. 

4. To cream butter successfully, it 
should be at about the temperature of 
the living-room (70° Fahr.). If too 



cold, it may stand a short time in the 
mixing-bowl after that has been heated 
slightly with warm water and wiped 
dry. 

5. Have the pans (if the ordinary 
pan be used) buttered and floured, or 
lined with paper, and the paper but- 
tered. 

6. Break the eggs, one by one, over 
a cup, separating whites from yolks 
when desired. Beat the yolks, but let 
the whites stand unbeaten in a cool 
place until the cake is nearly mixed. 

7. When fruit is used, cut citron in 
slices, and then in narrow strips ; seed 
raisins, and cut them in pieces ; remove 
stems from sultanas ; wash currants 
on a coarse sieve, then dry. Fruit to 
be mixed through a cake may be added 
to the butter and sugar creamed to- 
gether, without dredging with flour ; 
to be added at last, dredge with flour ; 
in layers, dredge lightly with flour, 
then, when the cake is mixed, sprinkle 
in between layers of cake mixture. 

The Fire. 
Electricity, gas, or oil, the heat from 
all of which may be regulated to a 
nicety, are ideal fuels for baking; and 
in no branch of cooking is such nice 
adjustment of heat demanded as in the 
baking of cake and pastry. Even at 
the present prices, where one is to bake 
several cakes in a morning (as do con- 
signors to industrial unions, etc.), elec- 
tricity or gas will be found more eco- 
nomical than coal. If the fuel be 
wood or coal, the fire should be in such 
condition that it may be regulated 
easily, and last through the baking 
without being replenished ; /.<?., do not 
attempt to bake a delicate cake mix- 
ture with a freshly built coal fire, or 
with a fire from which the life has largely 
died out. 



THE BOSTOX CUUKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXL. 



117 



An oven thermometer is of the great- 
est assistance in regulating the heat of 
an oven, no matter what fuel may be 
used. 

Temperature of the Oven. 

Layer cake and small cakes require 
a hotter oven than loaf cake. 

So cakes made with baking-powder 
call for a higher temperature (the car- 
bon dioxide is evolved more quickly* 
than do cakes made with cream-of- 
tartar and soda, lemon juice and soda, 
or molasses and soda. 

Biscuit, or sponge cake and pound 
cake, will bake at a lower temperature 
than cake lightened with carbon di- 
oxide. 

Also, cakes made rich with yolks of 
eggs require less heat that cakes made 
with whites of eggs; /. e,, an oven 
should be hotter for an angel cake 
than for a yellow form of sponge cake 
(}'olks of eggs are rich in fat, hence 
they burn quickly). 

Cake containing fruit should be 
baked in a slow oven. 
Utensils. 

Eirthen bowls for mixing the ingre- 
dients and beating eggs, a slitted 
wooden spoon, an ordinary-sized sieve 
for flour, a small sieve for soda, etc.. 
a Dover egg-beater, an egg-whisk, pas- 
try bag and tubes for lady- fingers, 
eclairs, and frosting, a small saucepan 
for boiling sugar, scales, measuring- 
cups, and a variety of baking-tins, are 
the most important utensils needed for 
work in this branch of the culinary art. 
Materials. 

Cake has come to be classed with 
confectionery, and to be eaten only 
occasionally as a luxury. Thus, in its 
preparation, the choicest rnaterials are 
demanded, — the best flour and butter, 
fine granulated sugar, fresh eggs and 



choice fruits, nuts and flavorings. The 
miller, by skilful devices, has evolved 
a flour especially adapted to produce 
a light, tender, delicate cake : when 
this is not available, the choicest pastry 
flour should be selected. Bread flour 
is sometimes used, but, as it contains a 
large quantity, comparatively, of gluten, 
it gives a thick, compact cake. Our 
recipes are written for pastry flour, save 
in yeast mixtures, and it may be nec- 
essary to increase or diminish, slightly, 
the quantity, as the thickening prop- 
erty of flDur varies; when bread flour 
is used, the quantit}' given should be 
diminished by two level tablespoonfuls 
for each cup. 

Spices should be sifted with the 
flour. 

Fine granulated sugar gives the best 
results, powdered sugar making a close 
dry cake, and coarse granulated sugar 
a very coarse-grained cake. 

If cream-of- tartar and soda can be 
accurately measured, these will, in gen- 
eral, give a more perfect cake than 
baking-powder. The novice, however, 
will succeed better with baking-pow- 
der. A pound cake is usually im- 
proved by the addition of a small quan- 
tity of baking-powder. Lemon juice 
and soda produce a cake of fine, close 
texture, but these are not adapted for 
lightening plain cakes. 

Lining the Pans. 

A light-weight wrapping-paper is best 
adapted to this purpose. To line a 
rectangular pan, invert, spread paper 
upon the bottom, having one side even 
with one of the longer edges of the 
bottom, crease the paper upon the 
opposite edge of the bottom, fold in 
the crease, and, with a sharp knife, cut 
at the fold. Put in the pan, press 
down smoothly, letting the two ends 



I16 



THE BOSTOX COOKJXG-SCHOOL MAUAZIXE. 



hang over the ends of the pan. Have 
ready a dish of clarified butter (melt 
the butter, and let stand a few mo- 
ments to ** settle/' then skim off the 
top, lea\*ing the salt and sediment in 
the bottomX and with a butter brush 
spread the unpapered sides of the tin 
and the paper with 'butter. Patented 
tins, from which cake can be easily 
removed, do not need lining. Tins 
may also be buttered thoroughly, and, 
just before the cake is placed in them, 
sprinkled with tiour. After sprinkling 
with flour invert and give the tin a 
sharp rap to remove superfluous flour. 
Filling the Pans. 

inai me cake, when baked, may fill 
the pan, have the uncooked mixture 
fill two-thirds of the space. Always 
draw the mixture away from the centre 
towards the corners or edges, and. 
when baked, other conditions being 
favorable, the top will be level. 
Mixivg Sponge Cake. 

As the lightness of sponge cake de- 
pends entirely upon the air incorpo- 
rated into the eggs, of which it is 
largely composed, and the expansion 
of this air in baking, great care must 
be taken, first, to secure the incorpora- 
tion of air in the mixture, and then to 
regulate the baking so as to retain the 
same; i.e., never stir a sponge-cake 
mixture ; let the heat be such that tlie 
enclosed air can be gradually heated. 
and the cell walls fixed when the air 
becomes fully expanded. Beat the 
yolks with an egg-beater until very 
light and thick ; add the sugar gradu- 
ally, beating continuously, then add 
the flavoring. Beat the whites until 
stiff and dry; cut and fold part of the 
whites into the yolks and sugar, then 
cut and fold in part of thfe flour ; now, 
in same order, remainincr whites and 



flour. If preferred, add the whites, 
then the flour entire. Bake in an un- 
buttered pan. made for the purpose, 
and let the cake stand in the inverted 
pan to cool. Thus suspended, as it 
were, from the floor of the pan, the 
cake will be much lighter than when 
it is left to hold up its own weight while 
cooling. 

Mixing Butter Cakes. 

Cream the butter, using an earthen 
bowl and a wooden spoon, to avoid 
discoloring the ingredients: add the 
sugar gradually, beating constantly; 
add yolks of eggs, beaten until thick 
and light-colored. If more sugar is 
used than can easily be creamed with 
the butter, add it to the yolks, and, 
with them, to the rest of the sugar 
and butter ; then add the liquid, fol- 
lowed by the flour and leavening ingre- 
dients sifted together, or add the liquid 
and flour alternately. Beat the mix- 
ture thoroughly to secure a fine grain, 
then beat in, lightly, the whites of the 
eggs beaten dry. 

Baking. 

Cakes are baked in from fifteen 
minutes to three or four hours. The 
heat of the oven should be moderate 
at first, that the mixture, being evenly 
heated, miy rise throughout. If the 
oven be too hot at first, the cake w^ill 
crust or brown over before it becomes 
sufficiently light ; then the rising mix- 
ture will break through the weakest 
place (usu.illy the centre), and run 
over the surface. Mrs. Lincoln gives 
the following most excellent directions 
for baking cake : " Divide the time re- 
quired into quarters. During the first 
quarter the heating is not manifested 
in appearance except by the rising; 
during the second the cake should 

(Concluded ■'- ' • ■ rsg.) 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SC HOOL MAGAZIXE. 



119 



SELECTED VERSE. 



Llt^E'S SCARS. 

They say the world is round, and yet 

I often think it square, 
So many little hurts we get 

From corners here and there. 
But one great truth in life I've found. 

While journeying to the west, — 
The only folks who really wound 

Are those we love the best. 

The man you thoroughly despise 

Can rouse your wrath, 'tis true ; 
Annoyance in your heart will rise 

At things mere strangers do ; 
But those are only passing ills, 

This rule all lives will prove : 
The rankling wound which aches and 
thrills 

Is dealt by hands we love. 

The choicest garb, the sweetest grace, 

Are oft to strangers shown ; 
The careless mien, the frowning face, 

Are given to our own. 
We flatter those we scarcely know; 

We please the fleeting guest ; 
And deal full many a thoughtless blow 

To those who love us best. 

Love does not grow on every tree, 

Nor true hearts yearly bloom. 
Alas, for those who only see 

This cut across a tomb ! 
But, soon or late, the fact grows plain 

To all through sorrow's test : 
The only folks who give us pain 

Are those we love ihe best. 

— Ella Wheeler Wilcox. 



EVENING SONG OF THE BRETON 
FISHERMAN. 

A SINGING breeze in the yellow sail, 
Crisp white foam on the summer sea; 

Sunset shadows and moonlight pale 
On yonder haven, where I would be. 

The toils of the day are over and past, 

The fisherman comes to his rest at last ! 

The bells are ringing the vesper chime 
In buried cities benea:h the sea; 



And the calm of the holy eventime 

Has wrought its peace on the world and 
me. 
Ave Maria ! In mercy keep 
The resting land and the restless deep. 

The lighthouse flashes the beacon high, 

A golden path on the dark'ning sea ; 
A star shines out in the dusky sky, 

And faint lights glimmer along the quay. 
And I know what the Star of Home is 

worth 
When the heart of heaven beats close to 

earth. 

— Chambers' s Journal. 



THANKSGIVING DAY. 

Over the river and through the wood. 
To grandfather's house we go ; 

The horse knows the way 

To carry the sleigh 
Through the white and drifted snow. 

Over the river and through the wood, — 
Oh, how the wind does blow I 
It stings the toes. 
And bites the nose, 
As over the ground we go. 

Over the river and through the wood. 
To have a first-rate play ; 

Hear the bells ring: 

" Ting-a-ling-ding ! " 
Hurrah for Thanksgiving Day! 

Over the river and through the wood, 
Trot fast, my dapple-gray ! 

Spring over the ground 

Like a hunting-hound ! 
For this is Thanksgiving Day 1 

Over the river and through the wood. 
And straight through the barnyard gate 

We seem to go, 

Extremely slow, — 
It is so hard to wait. 

Over the river and through the wood, — 
Now grandmother's cap I spy ! 
Hurrah for the fun I 
Is the pudding done ? 
Hurrah for the pumpkin pie 1 

— Lvdia Maria Child. 



I20 



THE BOSTOX COOKJXG-SCIIOOL MAGAZIXE. 



XTbe JSoston Coolung^Scbool 
Corporation, 

Established 1879. Incorporated 1882. 

School : 372 Boylston Strket. 



BOARD OF MANAG£)RS, 1900. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWAI^Iv - - - President. 
Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vice-President. 



JEiXMCUTIVM COMMITTJSM. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWAIvIv, 

Miss ElvIvEN M. CHANDLER, 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL, 
Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY, 

Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS, 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING, 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN, 
Miss MINNA TRAIN, 

Mrs. EVERETT MORSS. 
Mrs. G. E. NILES, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MERRITT FARMER. 
Miss MARIETTA McPHERSON. 



Assistants, 



Miss MARIA W. HOWARD. 



Ube Boston Coolktng^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL CORPORATION. 

Publication Oflfice : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

JANBT MCKENZIE HILL - - - Editor. 
BENJ. M. HILL, - - General Manager. 

R. B. HILL, - - - Business Manager. 

Subscription 50 cts. per year. Single Copies 

10 cts. 

Advertising rates furnished on application. 

To Subscribers. 

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until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on wrapper is the date of 
expiration of your subscription. Please renew 
by means of the blank form enclosed. 

When sending notice to renew subscription or 
change address, please give the old address as 
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We use in our subscription list the card 
index system, by which absolute accuracy is se- 
cured ; but in referring to an original entry we 
must know the name as it was formerly given, 
together with the Postoffice, County, State, Post- 
office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Postoffice as second-class 
matter. 



SPECIAL NOTICE, 

For the convenience of subscrib- 
ers, the Boston Cooking - School 
Magazine will be continued until 
a written order to discontinue is 
received and arrearages are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrap- 
per is the date on which your sub- 
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Please renew^ on receipt of the 
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piu'pose. 



A NNUALLY shore and mountain, 
^~^ woods and camp, are attracting 
larger and larger numbers of pleasure- 
seekers. The business world, yielding 
to the vacation custom, is constrained 
to limit its period of greatest activity 
to about ten months of the year. Buc 
in October the season of vacation has 
ended, schools have opened, and the 
more serious work of the year has be- 
gun. Now matters assume a more 
lively aspect ; a spirit of earnest, bus- 
tling enterprise pervades every thor- 
oughfare. The seasons are short, the 
year's work must be done, and busi- 
ness affairs become again the subject 
of absorbing interest. 

Now, we are reminded by this that 
the leading charge against woman, 
in her capacity as manager of the 
household, is her lack, or perhaps neg- 
lect, of business methods. Whether 
this charge be merited or not need not 
concern us here; but why should not 
the same earnestness be manifested 
in conducting the affairs of the house- 
hold as is noted in the concerns of 
the office or counting-house ? Is less 
method or vigilance demanded in the 
one case than in the other ; or is not 
enthusiastic effort essential to success 



THE BOS TO X COOKIXG-SC IIOOL MAGAZIXE. 



121 



in every calling ? Repeatedly this fact 
has been impressed upon our mind, 
that a successful business life is almost 
invariably the due reward of diligent 
application, long experience, and tire- 
less energy. In its pursuit nothing 
has been neglected that could lead to 
the desired goal. To lasting achieve- 
ment no other way has been provided. 
And there are indications to-day that 
point to the speedy application of 
business methods in the management 
of the home. Certainly the art of 
cooking is taught more extensively to- 
day than it has ever been before. 
Nearly every woman's club has its de- 
partment of domestic science. House- 
hold economic associations are numer- 
ous, while experienced teachers are 
giving demonstrations and lectures on 
household topics in all parts of the 
land. Evidently the housekeeper of 
the future must be trained for her call- 
ing, and, with her other attainments, 
she must fit herself to practise the 
ordinary ways of business; that is, she 
must learn how to introduce system, 
order, and a balancing of accounts into 
the every-day transactions of the house- 
hold. 

" The old order changeth, yielding place to 

new, 
And God fulfils Himself in many ways, 
Lest one good custom should corrupt the 

world." 

"TRANSITION, change, is the order 
' of the age. We marvel at the 
things that are passing away. Much 
of the custom, belief, and ways of liv- 
ing in the past has become to-day 
already /rtiyj-^. Certainly, in these days 
of isuis and ists, conservatives, like the 
good old lady who expressed the wish 
to live and die in the faith of her 
grandmother, are having a hard time 
of it. 



In .ways of locomotion, for instance, 
the bicycle and "mobile" are merely 
indicative of the progressive movement 
that is everywhere noted ; for changes, 
no less marked, and progress, no less 
rapid, have taken place in other lines 
of thought and activity. The " open 
door " and " expansion," words for- 
merly limited to ordinary uses, have 
become the most prominent and oft- 
repeated words in the language. They 
are fraught with the spirit that ani- 
mates the present civilization, and 
marks an epoch in history. For race 
or clan, the exclusive era is regarded no 
longer tolerable. Narrow and selfish, 
indeed, was the policy it exemplified. 
Slowly and surely the race is coming 
to believe in the policy of the open 
door, and is seeking for light, more 
light, on every subject of human inter- 
est. As individuals, we cannot evade 
the ever-present crisis. As our most 
thoughtful poet wrote : — 

" Once to every man and nation comes the 

moment to decide, 
In the strife of Truth with Falsehood, for the 

good or evil side." 

Time was when our educational sys- 
tem was general rather than specific 
in character. Now a special course 
of study is mapped out for every callmg 
in life, even for the several branches 
of each respective calling. Whereas, 
in the past, woman's training was any- 
thing than practical, to-day the adap- 
tation of courses of study to her imme- 
diate needs in actual life is made a 
subject of most earnest and persistent 
discussion. The introduction of do- 
mestic science in school and college, 
the establishment, here and there, of 
well-equipped schools of housekeeping, 
affording young women thorough and 
systematic training in all departments 



122 



THE BOSTOX C 00 KI XG-SC HOO L MAGAZIXE. 



of household economy, not only indi- 
cate a vast change from past ways of 
doing, but are significant of a grand 
reform. 

There is literally place no longer for 
the unskilled hand. The art of home- 
making requires special preparation, 
as does the practice of any other call- 
ing or profession. 



" r^ OOD digestion," wrote George 



^ 



Augustus Sala, ''means happi- 



ness and virtue. One -third of the 
crime in this world springs from con- 
genital causes; the sins of the fathers 
are literally visited on the children. 
Another third is due to the direct, al- 
though inscrutable, instrumentality of 
the devil : for the rest indigestion is 
mainly responsible." 

In all ages, and in all climes, for in- 
digestion, ill-cooking and lack of fresh 
air are largely responsible. Are not 
people slow in learning to realize the 
vital importance, first, of the hygienic 
preservation of food stuffs; and, second, 
of adopting the best approved methods 
in preparing the same for consumption ? 
The average homemaker, it seems, is 
more dense on these subjects than 
on many another. The old doctrine, 
that most anything is good enough 
to eat, was bad philosophy ; anyhow, 
it is antiquated now. As often made, 
the statement is simply an excuse for 
gross ignorance or culpable indolence. 

*' Take no thought for your life, what 
ye shall eat, and what ye shall drink," 
has often been misinterpreted and 
wrongly applied; for wide is the differ- 
ence between intelligent thinking and- 
fretful anxiety. To very lack of thought 
is due the baneful state of domestic 
science to - day, the chief source of 
evil in city life or country living. ' The 



earnest, thoughtful provider of edibles 
must be ever progressive. She will be 
also ever much in demand. 

Of the throngs of health-seekers just 
returning from seaside and mountain 
resorts, many will recall half-baked 
bread, sodden pie-crust, and bitter cof- 
fee as the sole drawback to a season 
of healthful recreation and pleasure. 

Madame Adelina Patti, who pre- 
serves her remarkable beauty long past 
the half- century mark, ascribes her 
health, her splendid constitution and 
figure, to a sensible and simple observ- 
ance of natural laws. She is reported 
as saying: '' No coffee, tea, chocolate, 
or ice water for me. I tr^e half the 
ills of American women to such 
things." 

An admirer says : — 

Madame Patti is a fervent advocate of 
fresh air. She revels in it. On fair days she 
puts on a short skirt and a pair of thick and 
comfortable walking-shoes, and tramps miles 
into the hills and vales of Wales. " What ails 
you girls ? " she used to say to us. " Where is 
your ambition, your life .? Don't sit about 
doing nothing; get into the air ^nd walk. 
Then, at my age, you will be as rosy and 
healthy as I am, and not broken down and 
suffering with all sorts of complaints." 

Better than drugs and medicines are 
food and fresh air to remedy the ills 
of life, to sustain and prolong vital 
energies. The entire matter of our 
well-being and happiness cannot be 
separated from the question of food. 



'' Cookery is eminently an experi- 
mental and practical art. Each day, 
while it adds to our experience, in- 
creases our knowledge." 



" The characteristic of ancient cook- 
ery was profusion; the characteristic 
of modern cookery is delicacy and re- 
finement." 



After=Breakfast Chat. 

By Janet M. Hill. 



Note. — Instead of our usual •' After-Breakfast Chat," we have prepared for this issue of 
the Magazine an article that will be found on another page. On this page we present a few 
sentiments culled from various sources, and suitable, we trust, for daily thought and inspira- 
tion.—/. J/. H. 

The same stale viands, served up o'er and o'er, 
The stomach nauseate. — Ovid. 

•' Children have more need of models than of critics.'' 

All difficulties are but easy when they are known. — Shakespeare. 

So live with your inferior as you wish a superior to live with you.^— Seneca. 

A pilot and a fair wind are necessary to a happy voyage ; reason and art to 
a happy life. — Epictetus. 

" When we are alone we have our thoughts to watch ; in family, our tempers ; 
and in company, our tongues." 

Manners are often too much neglected ; life is too short to get over a bad 
manner ; besides, manners are the shadows of virtue. — Sydney Smith. 

Alack, it is not when we sleep soft, and wake merrily, that we think on 
other people's sufferings, but when the hour of trouble comes — Sir Walter 
Scott. 

They blame him who sits silent; they blame him who speaks much; they 
also blame him who says little. There is no one on earth who is not blamed. — 
M. Aiirelius. 

As you would not wish to sail in a large and elegant and gilded ship, and 
sink; so neither is it desirable to inhabit a grand and sumptuous house, and 
be in a tumult. — Epictetus. 

How strange is the thing called pleasure, and how curiously related to its 
opposite, pain ; for they never come to a man together, and yet he who pursues 
either of them is generally compelled to take the other! — Socrates. 

•• When we are invited to an entertainment we take what we find ; and if any 
one should bid the master of the house set fish or tarts before him, he would 
be thought absurd. Yet in the world we ask the gods for what they do not 
give us ; and that, though there are so many things which they have given us." 

For if we would keep ourselves up to the level of our best possibilities, 
impulse, intention, and effort require to be renewed day by day by conscious 
and repeated endeavor, as surely as the wear and tear of our bodies require 
to be repaired by fresh daily material, as surely as our bodily muscles require 
exercise if they are not to stiffen. — Elot-cnce Bell. 



124 



THE BOSTON COO K I XG-SCIIOO L .}fAi;AZ/\E. 



CAKE AND SEASONABLE RECIPES. 

( I?i all recipes where flour is used, ujikss otherwise stated, the flour is measured 
after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a 
spoon and a level cupful is meant. A tablespoojiful or a teaspoonful of any 
designated material is a level spoonful of such material.) 




,UP5 AND SPOONS SHOWING METHOD OF MEASURING. 



Risotto. 

Put half a cup of rice over the fire 
in nearly a quart of cold water ; let 
heat quickly, and boil eight or ten 
minutes; then drain through a sieve, 
rinse with plenty of cold water, and 
drain again. Melt one tablespoonful 
of butter in a saucepan, add the rice, 
and saute' gently two or three min- 
utes without browning ; then add one 
cup of tomato pulp, a few grains of 
cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; 
let simmer until the rice is tender. 
Turn into a hot dish and sprinkle with 
half a cup of grated cheese. Serve 
very hot. 

Potato Stuffing for Fowl. 

Mix two cups of mashed potato, one 
cup of soft bread crumbs, and from one- 
third to one-half a cup of melted but- 
ter ; season to taste with salt and pep- 
per ; add sweet herbs or poultry sea- 
soning, as desired, and one beaten egg. 



Chestnut Stuffijig for Fowl. 

Cut a slit in the shell of each chest- 
nut in a quart, set in frying-pan, with 
two teaspoonfuls of butter, into the 
oven, and shake occasionally, to coat 
wdth the butter ; in five or six minutes 
remove, and, with a small, sharp knife, 
peel off the shell and inner skin to- 
gether. Cook the blanched chestnuts 
in boiling stock or water until tender; 
then press through a ricer, season with 
four tablespoonfuls of butter, a gener- 
ous teaspoonful of salt, and a dash or 
two of pepper. Sweet herbs, onion 
juice, lemon juice, or parsley may be 
added, as desired. A pint of raw 
chicken or veal, fine-chopped, or a pint 
of soft bread crumbs, may be used, by 
adding more seasoning. 

Cranberry-ajid-Raisi7i Sauce. , 

Simmer one pint of raisins several 
hours, or until very tender (when cooked 
there should be one cup of liquid) ; add 



TBE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



125 



one quart of cranberries, and cook five 
minutes, or until the skins burst ; then 
pass through a sieve, and return the 
pulp to the fire with one pint of sugar 
and the juice of a lemon ; let boil up 
once ; remove, and cool before using. 

Fillets of Turkey with Forcemeat^ 
Breaded. 

Cut the breast of a cold cooked tur- 
key into slices three-eighths of an inch 
thick, and trim into pieces of a uni- 
form shape. Cook half a cup of soft 
bread crumbs to a paste in half a cup of 
milk, stirring frequently; add two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, three-fourths a cup 
of the breast of a raw chicken, or raw 
veal, pounded smooth, the white of a 
large egg, a few grains of cayenne, and 
a generous fourth a teaspoonful of salt; 
mix, and with a wooden pestle press 
through a pure'e sieve. Spread the 
mixture smoothly upon one side of the 
fillets, then egg-and bread-crumb, and 
fry in deep fat. Serve one overlapping 



another, crown fashion, around a bunch 
of parsley or celery tips, or around a 
mound of canned peas or macedoine 
of vegetables. 

Rice-and- Cheese Croquettes. 

Steam one cup of rice in milk, salted 
water, or well-seasoned stock, until the 
rice is tender and dry (from three to 
five cups of liquid will be needed) ; 
add half a pound of grated Parmesan 
or other cheese ; season with salt and 
pepper, and add about a cup of white 
sauce (that made with chicken liquor 
preferred); add the sauce carefully; 
the quantity will depend upon the dry- 
ness of the rice ; shape at once into 
croquettes, or, if rather moist, cool 
slightly, then egg-and-bread-crumb, and 
fry in deep fat. Serve with cream or 
tomato sauce. 

Brioche. 

Soften a cake of compressed yeast 
in one -fourth a cup of warm water, 
and stir in flour to make a dough ; 



M-l 


f» 




1 


' 1 


1 •■ 

iP* ia^^ . 


> * 


^%i 


m 



UTENSILS FOR CAKE-MAKING. 



126 



THE BOSTOX COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 




CAKE PANS. 



knead thoroughly, then drop into a 
saucepan containing a little warm water 
and let stand in a temperature of 70° 
Fahr., until doubled in size. Put the 
rest of a pound (four cups equal a 
pound) of flour in a mixing-bowl, and 
add one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, 
one tablespoonful of sugar, ten ounces 
(one cup and a fourth) of softened but- 
ter, and four eggs. Mix to a paste, 
beat thoroughly with the hand, then 
add eggs, one at a time, until seven, in 
all, have been used; beat until smooth 
and fine-grained. When the ball of 
sponge is light, remove from the water 
with a skimmer, and place in the centre 
of the ^g'g mixture ; fold the ^gg mix- 
ture over the sponge, then beat until 
the two are thoroughly blended; set 
aside in a te'mperature of about 70° 
Fahr., until doubled in bulk ; turn on 
to a floured board, pat out, and fold 
over several times, or, if very soft, fold 
in the mixing-bowl ; let rise a second 
time, and repeat the process, then set 
aside on the ice to become thoroughly 
chilled. It may stand over night to 
advantage. It is then ready to use as 
desired. 



Co fee Rolls. 

Roll chilled brioche into a sheet 
about one-fourth an inch thick (a mar- 
ble slab or a magic cover is an ad- 
vantage), brush over very lightly with 
softened butter, then fold from the 
sides toward the centre, so as to make 
three layers. Cut strips three-fourths 
an inch wide ; take each separately, and 
twist from the ends in opposite direc- 
tions, and with each form a circle on the 
baking-sheet, but, instead of having the 
ends meet, bring them side by side up 
to the centre of the curve. Arrange 
the rolls close together in the baking- 
pan, and btush over with yolk of ^gg 
beaten and diluted with milk; let rise, 
and bake about twenty-five minutes in 
a moderate oven ; let cool, then brush 
over with confectioners' sugar mois- 
tened with boiling water to spread. 
Brioche Buns. 

Shape the chilled brioche into balls 
the size of an egg; put them close 
together in a buttered pan, and press 
into the top of each a slice of citron 
or a seeded raisin. When risen to 
more than double in bulk, brush over 
with sugar dissolved in a little milk, 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



127 



and bake about twenty-five minutes in 
a moderate oven. Brush over a second 
time with the sugar and milk, and 
sprinkle with loaf sugar pounded into 
small bits ; let stand in the oven until 
well glazed. 

Brioche with Head. 
Divide the chilled brioche into two 
pieces, one a fourth as large as the 
other. Shape the larger piece into a 
round, and, with the rolling-pin, flatten 
evenly to fit the baking-pan (a round 
sponge-cake pan). Make an open place 
in the centre, and gash the dough in four 
or five places on the inner edge, after 
placing it in the buttered pan ; form 
the small piece into a ball, then, with 
the floured hand, roll it on the board. 



light bake about fifty minutes in a slow 
oven, then brush over with sugar dis- 
solved in a little milk. Serve hot or 
cold. 

Brioches St. Mark. 
Fill twelve well-buttered individual 
timbale moulds two -thirds full with 
brioche paste. When risen nearly to 
fill the moulds, bake in a moderate 
oven. Remove from the moulds, and, 
when cold, trim uniformly to size of 
the moulds, and remove the centre from 
each, leaving a thin shell. Pour over 
the inside a highly flavored syrup ; 
drain, and fill with whipped cream or 
a custard filling ; brush over the out- 
side with apricot marmalade, and strew 
with pistachios and almonds blanched 




BRIOCHE RING WITH HEAD. 



giving it the shape of a pear ; set the 
pointed end in the centre of the pan, 
and brush over the whole with yolk of 
egg beaten with a little milk; when 



and chopped fine. (3rnament the top 
of each timbale with a rosette formed 
of a split cherry surrounded by halves 
of pistachios. Dress these on a plate 



THE m')STOX C 00 K I XC-SCIIOO L MACfAZIXE. 



128 

in a circle, filling the centre of the 
circle with halved peaches cooked in 
syrup. Serve with or without whipped 
cream or a custard sauce. 



cut in small pieces, seeded raisins cut 
in pieces, and washed currants. But- 
ter a baba mould and half fill with the 
mixture ; let rise nearly to the top of 










BRIOCHES ST. MARK. 



Baba 7vith Fruit. 
Soften a cake of compressed yeast 
in half a cup of boiled and cooled 
water, or scalded and cooled milk ; beat 
in about a cup of tiour, and set aside 
to rise in a temperature of about 70" 
Eahr. Put the rest of a pound of fiour 
(four cups to a pound) into a mixing- 
bowl, and add ten ounces (one cup 
and a fourth) of softened butter, a 
tablespoonful of granulated sugar, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and three 
eggs; work the whole together until 
smooth, then add five eggs, one at a 
time, and continue beating wdth the 
hand until the paste is very smooth. 
When the sponge has risen to twice its 
original size, add it to the ^gg mixture, 
beating again until smooth ; then add 
one cup of fruit, citron, and cherries 



the mould, then bake in an oven at 
a lower temperature than for bread. 
Serve hot on a dish covered with a 
napkin. Pass at the same time 

APRICOT SAUCE. 

Boil half a cup of apricot jam, the 
juice of two lemons, and one cup of 
syrup, five minutes ; strain and serve. 
Half a cup of Jamaica rum, or other 
spirits, may be used instead of the 
lemon juice. 

Bath Buns. 

Soften a cake of compressed yeast 
in half a cup of lukew^arm milk or 
w^ater, and add fiour to make a sponge ; 
when light add half a cup of sugar, 
three fourths a cup of softened butter, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a grat- 
ing of lemon rind, four eggs, and the 
rest of a pound of fiour ; mix thor- 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



129 



oughly, then knead half an hour, add- 
ing more flour, if required, but keeping 
the dough quite soft. When risen 
double in bulk, shape into balls and 
finish as brioche buns. 

Every-day Bims. 

Make as above, using a full cup of 
milk, one-fourth a cup of butter, three 
eggs, and half or two-thirds a cup of 
sugar. 

Tha7iksgivi?ig Cake. 

Mix together, and beat with the 
hand until perfectly smooth, two cups 
of bread dough (ready for shaping into 
loaves), half a cup of butter, two cups 
of sugar, two eggs, one-fourth a tea- 



not quite double in bulk), bake in an 
oven at a temperature a little lower 
than for bread. When cold pour a 
maple-sugar frosting over the cake, and 
decorate with pecan or hickory nuts 
and ornamental frosting. This cake is 
particularly good made of entire-wheat 
bread dough. 

Maple- Sugar F7'0sting. 
Stir a cup of thin cream and two 
cups (one pound) of grated or shaved 
maple sugar over the fire until dis- 
solved, then cook until the soft-ball 
stage is reached, without stirring. Re- 
move from the fire, set into cold water, 
and beat until of consistency to spread. 




THANKSGIVING CAKE. 



spoonful of clove, half a teaspoonful, 
each, of cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg, 
half a teaspoonful of soda, one cup of 
seeded raisins, and one-fourth a cup 
of sliced citron. Turn into a tube 
cake-pan, and, when light (it should 



Boiled Maple- Sugar Frostittg. 
Boil two cups of maple sugar, pre- 
pared as above, with half a cup of boil- 
ing water, until a soft ball can be 
formed in cold water; then pour in a 
fine stream on to the stiff-beaten whites 



I30 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



of two eggs, beating constantly ; return 
to the fire, and beat carefully, to avoid 
burning, two or three minutes; then 
remove, and beat occasionally until 
cold and of consistency to spread. 

Sponge or Sai'oy Cake (Biscuit de 
Savoie). 

One pound of eggs (ten eggs), one 
pound of sugar (two cups), half a 
pound of flour (two cups), juice and 
grated rind of one lemon. F'ollow the 
directions previously given. 
Mocha Cake. 

Bake a sponge-cake mixture in two 
round layer cake pans. (Half a pound, 
each, of eggs and sugar, and the usual 
proportion of other ingredients, will 
give two layers and a dozen lady-fin- 
gers.) Prepare a mocha cream, spread 
smoothly between the layers and upon 
the outside of the cake. Score the 
cake in pieces for serving. Pipe with 
the remainder of the cream. 



Mocha Cream. 

Wash a cup of butter, then beat to 
a cream and add slowly enough thick 
syrup, flavored with coffee, to sweeten 
the mixture to taste. To make the 
syrup, cook together a cup of sugar 
and half a cup of clear, strong coffee 
until a thick syrup is formed ; cool be- 
fore using. A cup and a half of butter 
will be needed for a large cake, with 
heavy decoration. 

Sunshi7ie Cake. 

Beat the yolks of five eggs until light- 
colored and very thick ; beat the whites 
of seven eggs until foamy, then add 
one-third a teaspoonful of cream-of- 
tartar, and beat until dry. Fold one 
cup of sugar into the whites, then add 
the yolks, cutting and folding them 
in thoroughly ; add one teaspoonful of 
orange extract, and at the last fold in 
two-thirds a cup of flour. Bake in tube 
pan from thirty- five to fifty minutes. 




MOCHA CAKE. 



THE BOSTOX COOKTXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



131 



Lady-fingers (Naples Biscuit). 
Three eggs, half a cup of powdered 
sugar, half a cup of flour, grating of 
lemon or orange rind. Use a generous 



fourths an inch wide, dust with fine 
granulated sugar, and, when baked, 
cover the tops with Italian meringue 
(boiled frosting), and sprinkle with 




FINGER BISCUIT WITH PISTACHIOS. OTHELLOS. MADELEINES. 



measure of sugar; mix according to 
formula. Press the mixture through 
a tube on to a baking-sheet covered 
with paper, in portions an inch wide 
and five inches long. Dust with granu- 
lated sugar, and bake from ten to 
fifteen minutes, without browning. 
Remove from the paper, brush over 
the flat surface of one biscuit with 
white of ^gg, press the under side of a 
second biscuit upon the first, and set 
aside. 

Africans, or Othellos. 

Press the biscuit mixture on to the 
paper in rounds an inch or more in 
diameter. \\'hen baked, spread the flat 
surface of half the biscuits with jam or 
jelly, and cover with the remaining 
biscuits. Dip in chocolate fondant or 
frosting, and dry on oiled paper. 
Finger Biscuit with Pistachios. 

Press the biscuit paste on to the 
paper in oval-shaped strips, one and 
three -fourths inches long by three- 



chopped pistachios. Ox strew the bis- 
cuits before baking with fine chopped 
almonds mixed with sugar, and the 
Italian meringue may be omitted. 
Pound Cake. 

Heat one pound and a half of butter 
to a cream ; add gradually one pound 
and a half of sugar, then the beaten 
yolks of ten eggs; add, alternately, 
one pound and a half of flour sifted 
with two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and a scant cup of milk, and, 
lastly, the whites of ten eggs beaten 
dry. When putting the mixture into 
the pan, add, here and there, a slice of 
citron. 

Pound Cake by Measure. 

Prepare as above, using one cup of 
butter, one cup and a half of sugar, 
two cups of flour, four eggs, half a cup 
of milk, and one teaspoonful of baking- 
powder. 

Le?no7i Queens. 

Cream half a cup of butter; add, 



132 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



gradually, one cup of sugar, the grated 
rind of a lemon, and one tablespoonful 
of juice; then add the beaten yolks of 
four eggs. Mix one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of soda with one cup and a fourth of 
flour, and add to the first mixture, 
beating thoroughly. Add the whites 
of four eggs beaten stiff. Bake in small 
tins about twenty minutes. Spread 
the tops of the cakes, when cold, with 
confectioners' sugar mixed with boiling 
water and lemon juice. 

Madeleines. 
Bake a pound or a Genoese cake 
mixture (sponge-cake mixture, though 
"not the proper thing," is sometimes 
used) in a sheet that, when baked, 
may be an inch and a half in thickness. 
When cold cut in small rounds, dia- 
monds, crescents, or squares, brush over 
the cut sides with white of egg beaten 
slightly with two tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar, and set aside several 



used ; baked in these, the glazing with 
egg and sugar, which is to hold the 
crumbs m place, may be omitted. 
Meringues. 
Beat half a pound (one cup) of 
whites of fresh eggs with one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, slowly at first, then 
faster as they grow stiff, until very stiff ; 
then add two tablespoonfuls of fine 
granulated sugar, and whisk in; add 
the same quantity of sugar twice more, 
whisking in the sugar thoroughly each 
time before more is added, then con- 
tinue beating until the mixture can be 
cut clean wdth a knife. Then add the 
rest of half a pound (one cup) of 
sugar, and fold in to the mass lightly 
and smoothly. Lightly tack a sheet 
of damp paper on to a board about 
one inch in thickness; with a spoon 
drop the mixture on to the paper, giv- 
ing each spoonful an oval or egg shape. 
Dust these with granulated sugar, set 
into a cool oven, and let dry out rather 




MUSHROOM MERINGUES. 



hours, or over night, to dry. Dip into 
tinted fondant, and decorate with can- 
died fruit (or nuts) and ornamental 
frosting. Madeleine moulds may be 



than bake. At the last increase the 
heat, and let them take on a delicate 
brown color. When baked they can 
be lifted from the paper. Baking will 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



133 



require from three-fourths of an hour 
to a full hour. When baked, remove 
the tacks and invert the paper ; care- 
fully take off the meringues, and take 
out the uncooked portion in the centre; 
lay them, with the open centre up, on 
another board, and return to the oven 
to dry. When dry and cold fill the 
shells, nicely paired, with whipped 
cream sweetened and flavored, or cream 
or water ice, and press the two corre- 
sponding parts together. Serve at 
once. The meringues may be baked 
on a waxed baking- sheet. 

Mushroom Meringues. 

With pastry bag and plain tube shape 
the meringue mixture into rounds the 
size of mushroom caps, and in upright 
pieces, like thick mushroom stems. 
Dust the caps with grated chocolate 
or powdered cinnamon. When baked, 
and taken from the paper, fit the caps, 
while hot, on the stems. 

Wine Drop Cookies. 

Cream half a cup of butter ; add one 
cup of sugar, three-fourths a cup of 
currants, half a cup of molasses, one 
egg well beaten, and, alternately, half 
a cup of sweet milk and three cups of 
flour sifted with half a teaspoonful, 
each, of soda and cloves and one tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon. Drop from 
spoon on buttered tin. 

Cranberry Puffs. 

Sift together two cups of sifted flour, 
four teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
and half a teaspoonful of salt; rub 
one-fourth a cup of butter into the 
flour; beat the eggs until like thick 
cream ; add one cup of rich milk or thin 
cream, and stir into the flour with one 
pint of cranberries. Fill buttered cups 
about half full of the mixture, and 
steam one hour in a closely covered 
steamer. Serve with plenty of sauce. 



as the puffs are spongy, and will ab- 
sorb a large quantity. 

CRANBERRY PUDDING SAUCE. 

Boil two cups of sugar and half a 
cup of water five minutes ; add a cup 
of thin cranberry juice, and let boil 
again. If a thicker sauce be desired, 
stir in a half or a whole teaspoonful of 
cornstarch, stirred, until smooth, in a 
little water. Let cook ten minutes ; 
add a teaspoonful of butter and a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, to accen- 
tuate the flavor of the cranberries. 
Apple Souffie. 

Beat the whites of five eggs until 
foamy; add one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of cream-of-tartar, and beat until dry, 
then cut and fold in half a cup of 
sugar, half a cup of apple pulp, and 
the juice of half a lemon. (Steam three 
or four apples, and press the pulp 
through a sieve. The pulp should be 
rather dry.) Turn the mixture into a 
buttered dish, and bake, standing in a 
pan of hot water, about twenty- five min- 
utes. Serve with cream and sugar. 
Apple Souffle, No. 2. 

Cook three tablespoonfuls of flour 
in two tablespoonfuls of butter ; add 
half a cup of milk gradually, a few 
grains of salt, and the beaten yolks of 
three eggs. Then fold in half a cup 
of cooked apples, cut into cubes, one- 
fourth a cup of hot apple pulp, and the 
whites of three eggs beaten dry. Bake 
in a buttered baking-dish, standing in 
a pan of hot water, about twenty- five 
minutes. (Apple pulp may be used in 
the place of milk.) Prepare a merin- 
gue of the w^hites of two eggs and 
four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Decorate 
the top of the souffle with the meringue, 
using a pastry bag and tube, and re- 
turn to the oven for about six minutes; 
then serve at once. Omit the meringue 
and serve with cream and sugar, if 
preferred. 



134 



THE BOSTOX COOh'IXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 




Cranberry Pie. 



THANKSGIVING MENUS. 

" The waning year grows brown and gray and dull, 
And poets sing ' November, bleak and sere ' ; 
But from the bounteous garnered harvest store, 
With grateful hearts we draw Thanksgiving cheer." 



Tomato Soup (Turkey Giblets). Croutons. Olives. 

Roast Turkey, English Style (Garnish : Fried Oysters); 

Celery Sauce. Stewed Gooseberries. 

Baltimore Samp in Cream Sauce and Parsley. Mashed Turnips. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

ArPLE-AND-NuT Salad. Pumpkin Pie. 

Cheese. Fruit and Nuts. Coffee. 



II. 

Clam Broth, Crackers. Celery. Pim-olas. 

Roast Turkey, Potato Stuffing; Giblet Sauce; Cranberry-and-Raisin Sauce. 

Baked Squash. Onions with Cream. 

Chicken Pie. Celery-and-Afple Salad. 

Cracker Fruit Pudding, Hard Sauce. Pumpkin Pie. Apple Pie with Cream. 

Edam Cheese. Fruit and Nuts. Coffee. 

III. 

Consomme with Chicken Quenelles. Olives. Celery. 

Boiled Shoulder of Cod, Oyster Sauce. 

Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing (Garnish: Small Sausage and Glazed Chestnuts). 

Plum and Quince Jellies. Potatoes Scalloped with Onions. . 

Buttered Flageolets. Cauliflower aii Gratin in Cheese Shell. 

Cranberry Granite. Wild Duck. Celery-and-Orange Salad. 

Mock Mince Pie. Pumpkin Pie. Bisque Ice-Cream. Fruit and Nuts. 

Cafe Noir. 



THANKSGIVING SPR.EAD. (9 o'clock, p.m.) 

EscALLOPED Oysters en Coquille. 

Fillets of Turkey, with Chicken Forcemeat, Breaded. Cranberry Jelly. 

Celery-and-Pecan-Nut S.\lad. Pim-olas. Salad Rolls. 

Nesselrode Pudding. Vanilla Ice-Cream. Thanksgiving Cake. 

Nuts. Fruit. Bonbons. 

Coffef. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



135 



SEASONABLE MENUS FOR OCTOBER, 

" Prove all things; hold fast that which is good." 



Cornmeal Mush, Winter Sweets Baked, Cream. 

Codfish Balls, Tomato Sauce. 

Eggs in the Shell. Coffee Rolls. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Stewed Oysters. Celery. Olives. 

Roast Chicken, Bread Stuffing, Clear Gravy. 

Mashed Potatoes. Sweet Potatoes. 

Buttered Cauliflower. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Preserved Quinces, Cream. Pecan Sticks. 

Cafe Noir. 

Bath Buns, Reheated. Cocoa. 



BMEAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Baked Potatoes. Hashed Beef (Flank from Steak). 

Cornmeal Breakfast Cake. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Spinach with Poached Eggs. Toast. 
Gingerbread Baked in Gem Pans. Cocoa. 

DINNER. 

Mock Bisque Soup. 

Halibut Steaks Baked with Oyster.s, Holland- 

aise Sauce. 

Boiled Potato Balls. 

Stuffed Tomato Salad. 

Tapioca Baked with Peaches, Cream. 

Cafe Noir. 



m 
o 
2 

> 



BREAKFAST. 

Ralston Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Tomato Omelet, Broiled Bacon. 

Baked Potato Cakes. Broiled Sweet Potatoes. 

Entire-Wheat Muffins. 

Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cream of Cauliflower. Rissotto. 

Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Tomato Soup. Chicken Croquettes. 

Buttered Lima Beans. Escalloped Potatoes. 

Celery Salad, Boiled Dressing. 

Cracker Pudding. 

Cereal Coffee. 



BREAKFAST. 

Melons. 

Broiled Ham, Shirred Eggs. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Entire-Wheat Muffins. 

Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Boiled Chicken, Cauliflower Sauce. 

Rice. Baked Squash. Escalloped Tomatoes. 

Lettuce Salad. Peach Sherbet. 

Plunkets. Cafe Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Entire- Wheat Bread and Butter. 

Apple Sauce. Neufchatel Chetse. 

Sweet Wafers. Cocoa. 



H 
3 
C 

t/J 
O 
> 
< 



BREAKFAST. 

Barley Crystals, Stewed Pears, Cream. 

Eggs Scrambled with Sweet Green Peppers. 

Cornmeal Mush Fried, Maple Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Cole-slaw in Cabbage Shell. Baking-Powder 

Biscuit. 

Blushing Apples with Orange Sauce. 

Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Sirloin Steak Broiled, Bernaise Sauce. 

French Fried Potatoes. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Lima-Bean Salad. 

Cranberry Puffs, Cranberry Sauce. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat, Cream. 

Salt Mackerel Broiled, Cream. 

Baked Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes. Dry Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Kornlet Soup, Croutons. 

Escalloped Halibut. Egg Plant au Gratin. 

Lettuce-and-Cheese Salad. 

Cottage Pudding, Cranberry Sauce. 

Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Macaroni in Tomato Sauce. 

Squash Pie. 

Tea. 



BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Tripe Fried in Batter, 

Chili Sauce. 

Moulded Cereal Fried. 

Dry Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 



DINNER. 

Clam Broth. 

Chicken Souffle, 

Mushroom Sauce. 

Succotash with Tomatoes. 

Apple-and-Nut Salad. 

Fresh Peach Shortcake. 

Coffee. 



SUPPER. 

Potato-and-Mackerel Salad. 

Cream Toast. 

Bread and Butter. 

Apple Sauce. 

Tea. 



136 



THE BOSTO.V COOA'/Xa-SC//OOL MA'GAZIXK. 



IN REFERENCE TO RECIPES AND MENUS, 



" Of making many books there is no 
end." The making of recipes in this 
enlightened age has often been criti- 
cised. Far be it from us to bar the 
way to progress in any movement. 
Our desire is to simplify processes, 
and, as far as possible, inspire con- 
tentment and pleasure in housekeeping. 
Still, as a culinary organ, we address, 
at each issue, to a certain extent, a 
new audience; and we feel constrained 
to present the most available dishes of 
the season in such a manner that she 
who runs may read. In doing this, 
however, we do not ignore the fact 
that this is the nineteenth century, or 
that the mere compilation of books of 
recipes is a feature of the past. Ifi 
cookery, as in other branches of sci- 
ence, we know that generalization is a 
sign of the times ; we are aware, also, 
that, while the subject of cookery may 
not have been reduced, as yet, to the 
condition of an exact science, still, it 
may be considered as founded on a 
strictly scientific basis. 

But have the great majority of house- 
keepers been trained up to the stand- 
ards of the present? How many, out- 
side the leaders, in any phase of life, 
keep fully abreast of the times? And 
are not reforms of every kind best 
wrought out when easy measures are 
pursued, here a little and there a little, 
as opportunity' oilers ? In brief, it 
would seem to be the part of wisdom 
to take the world as we find it, and be 
guided sornewhat by a spirit of con- 
servatism even in humble matters. 

Could we satisfy an ever-changing 
clientele in abstaining hereafter from 
printing an exact recipe for any variety 



of sponge cake, because in this issue 
we have given the general formula for 
sponge-cake mixtures? And this is 
the formula : Use the weight of the 
egi^^s in sugar, and half the weight in 
liour. and flavoring. 

We believe that every woman in 
charge of the cuisine of a familv 
should be taught to group the various 
culinary operations into distinct classes, 
and she should know the formulas that 
are required for the production of arti- 
cles in eich class. These things, once 
known, the whole subject of recipes 
and cookery is simplified, and failure, 
even in trying new ingredients, at least 
from a lack of proper combination of 
materials, becomes unknown. 

For instance, among the recipes in 
this issue will be found two for apple 
souffle'. These, though not the best for 
the purpose, may be taken as examples 
of the two classes of souffle's. In either 
case, the apple pulp may be replaced 
by the pulp of any other fruit; the 
dried fruits, as figs, dates, and prunes, 
when cooked and reduced to a thick 
pulp, being especially adapted to the 
first recipe, 'or fruit souffle' proper ; while 
the second, deprived of its superflui- 
ties, having a paste foundation, is better 
adapted to the presentation of vege- 
table pulps, grated cheese, and pounded 
fi^h or meat, each seasoned with its 
appropriate condiments and spices, and 
named in accordance with the distin- 
guishing article used. Thus, the sub- 
ject of souffle's may be generalized, 
somewhat. But in actual practice, 
when meat or fish of one or several 
harmonizing varieties are at hand, the 
quantity of milk and fine-chopped fish 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



^11 



or meat may each he increased to a 
pint, without increasing the quantity of 
flour or the number of eggs, by simply 
adding to the foundation half a cup of 
soft bread crumbs. 

The Menus. 
The last of the above souffles is the 
one suggested in the menu for the 
Saturday dinner; in this what is left 
of the boiled chicken, served on Thurs- 
day, is to be used. Chicken liquor 
may take the place of the whole or a 
part of the milk, and the dish may be 
served with a tomato or bechamel 
sauce, instead of the mushroom sauce 
indicated. One cup, each, of chicken 
and milk, two small eggs, and other 
ingredients, accordingly, will suffice 
for four or five people. 

Coffee Rolls. 
The coffee rolls given for breakfast 
Sunday may be made from brioche, or 
from a bun mixture. Avoid usinji two 
much flour in the latter. In shaping 
any of the articles made from brioche, 
keep in mind that it is a very soft, rich 
paste, and that it needs be thoroughly 
chilled on ice before it can be shaped ; 
when chilled it may be formed with 
ease into large or individual brioche, 
with head or orher fanciful shapes. 
Potatoes and Suceotash. 
Baked potatoes for breakfast are 
given frequently, as in many ranges 
the first fire of the morning heats the 
oven very quickly, and the potatoes 
are more easily baked at this hour than 
at any other; but, when a gas range 
is used, and no other article is pre- 
pared for the oven, it is an item of 
considerable economy to cook the po- 
tatoes in some other way. The menus 
are suggestive only; each housekeeper 
is the best judge, whether it be a mat- 
ter of wisdom or not, for one circum- 



stanced as she is, to follow out the sug- 
gestions in detail. T'le white hashed 
potatoes, given many times before, are 
cold potatoes chopped fine, tossed in a 
frying-pan with a little melted butter 
or dripping, and slowly cooked with a 
little white stock or hot water, without 
taking color; a sprinkling of salt, and 
a few bits of butter, are also needed, 
and the frying-pan should be covered 
during the cooking. Fresh lima beans 
are available in October, as are to- 
matoes; but the corn needed to com- 
plete the dish of succotash must un- 
doubtedly be canned. 

Thanksgiving Turkey. 
The turkey, and nothing but the 
turkey, will do for the Thanksgiv- 
ing feast, because, as some one has 
facetiously remarked, "we discovered 
them ; " and surely no more appropri- 
ate plat could be served on a holiday 
confined to a portion of the New World 
than a bird native to the soil. 

" Let the land 
Look^for his peer; he has not yet been found." 

That is, if he be well presented. 
First of all, let the turkey be properly 
dressed as soon as he is killed. The 
eating of cold-storage fowl, kept un- 
drawn- for months, calls for something 
more than protest on the part of the 
housekeeper. Of minor consideration, 
but well worthy of attention, are the 
matters of dry -picking, drawing the 
tendons, and careful cooking. The 
plumpest, tenderest, choicest bird of a 
flock will surely come •from the oven 
dry arid tasteless, unless it be given the 
necessary attention. 

A roasting-pan, with a hinged cover, 
is quite a necessity, unless one is 
willing to baste a fowl almost con- 
stantly. Many a roast turkey is sent 
to the table ruined by subjection to too 



138 



THE BOSrOX COOKIXG-SCIIOOL MAGAZIXE. 



fierce a heat. After the initial searing 
of the surface the temperature of the 
oven should be lowered ; long, slow 
cooking, at moderate heat, the surface 
being kept moist with hot dripping 
and water, is requisite to proper re- 
sults. 

Celery sauce (white) is the accom- 
paniment of a boiled, rather than of a 
roast turkey ; but, for a change, a brown 
celery sauce may prove agreeable. For 
this a browned flour is cooked in 
browned butter, and brown stock, highly 
flavored with celery, is added, and, at 
the last cooked bits of celery are sim- 
mered in it a few moments. 

In the first menu the turkey is 
cooked without stuffing, the Baltimore 
samp taking the place of the stuffing ; 
but an onion, or piece of bread, should 
be placed inside to furnish moisture. 

In the second menu the potato 
stuffing takes the place of the potato 
that is served apart. 

For the third menu prepare a plain 
chestnut stuffing; then, when about 
ready to dish the turkey, simmer a 
pound of small-sized link sausage in 
boiling water ten minutes, first prick- 
ing them many times with a fork, then 



finish cooking in the oven. Also put 
into the oven a cup of blanched chest- 
nuts, with three or four tablespoonfuls 
of glaze; when the glaze has melted, 
with it baste the chestnuts every few 
minutes until they are shiny and well 
glazed. To garnish, form a wreath 
about the turkey, alternating a chest- 
nut with three sausage, one placed 
above the other two. 

The turkey, served with fried oysters 
and stewed gooseberries (canned or 
preserved), after the fashion of the 
English, to whom native cranberries 
are unknown, will be an agreeable 
change for many. But whether gar- 
nished or not for serving, bear in 
mind that the turkey will look best 
on a dish that affords plenty of space. 
One-third the surface of the platter 
should be left free for appearance' sake 
and the convenience of the carver. 
Salads. 

Either mayonnaise or French dress- 
ing may be served with the salads*, but 
a French dressing would be the choice, 
with the celery-and-orange salad ; in- 
deed, this is always the more appro- 
priate dressing for a salad at a heavy 
dinner. 





^c^r'k^'k^^^i^^'k^i^^ 



Queries and Answers, 



T^ts departmetit is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. 
Questions relating to menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary 
science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully answered 
by the Editor. Communicatio7is for this department must reach us before the first of the month 
preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting annver by 
mail, please enclose postage stamp ; for menus ^ one dollar. Address queries to Janet M. Hilly 
Editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, ^"^2 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 394. — Mrs. E. J. O., Brook- 
lyn, A\ v.: ''Are broilers made for 
small pieces of steak, or two or three 
chops that can be used over a gas burner 
on the top of a gas range, — something that 
does not give a pan-broiling result / Why 
is it advisable to cook spitiach in the water 
that clings to it in washing ( How many 
tablespoonfuls of sugar are used in the 
recipe for entire-wheat muffins, page 8j, 
Vol. V. / fs basil the same thi?ig as ber- 
gamot i What is the best earthenware 
moulds for individual blanc-mange, etc. 1 " 
Small Broilers. 

Inexpensive double broilers are 
made, corresponding in size and shape 
to stove plates or covers. They may 
be purchased of any dealer in wire 
goods. Broiling over a gas burner on 
the top of a gas range is objectionable, 
as there is no way of carrying the 
smoke up the chimney. 
Spinach. 

In cooking spinach in a large quan- 
tity of water that must be drained from 
it, the potash salts, its most valuable 
constituent, are lost ; tender spinach 
will cook in fifteen or twenty minutes ; 
if attention can be given to the process, 
use a little more water and less heat. 
Sugar in Entire- Wheat Muffins. 

But two tablespoonfuls of sugar were 
called for in the recipe. The repeti- 
tion was unintentional. However, espe- 



cially if used as tea muffins, many would 
prefer the extra quantity of sugar. 
Basil and Bergamot. 

Basil and bergamot both belong to 
the mint family, but are members of 
entirely different tribes ; the leaves are 
quite unlike. In its manner of growth, 
bergamot is quite similar to the plant 
called Oswego tea ; it is, also, a mem- 
ber of the same tribe. 

Earthenware Moulds. 

Individual earthenware moulds are 
of various makes. Japanese moulds 
are rather heavy, but much used. A 
blue-and-white German ware is lighter 
in weight and very prett}'. 



Mrs. 



Mt. Pleas- 



QuERY 395. 
ant, Pa. : " Recipe for Taylor cakes'' 
Taylor Cakes. {Contributed^ 

Cream one cup of butter with one 
of granulated sugar ; add one pint of 
molasses mixed with one cup of sour 
milk. Then add five cups of flour 
sifted with two teaspoonfuls of soda 
and three teaspoonfuls of ground gin- 
ger. Beat thoroughly and drop on tins. 
Bake in a slow oven. 



Query 396. — M. A. M., A'orth 
Ca?nbridge, Mass.: '' A recipe for pecan 
sticks:' 

Pecan Sticks. ( Contributed, j 

Mix together, until stiff, the whites 



40 



77//: /'>\>Sy().\ COOA/\L-MJ/i}OJ. M.iGA/JXE, 



of six eggs, one pound of powdered 
sugar, one ounce of ground cinnamon, 
one pound of pecan meats ground fine, 
and the grated rind of a lemon. Roll 
to about an eighth of an inch thick, cut 
in strips one inch wide and six inches 
long, and bake in a very slow oven. 
When done curl around a stick, or 
serve without rolling, piled in log-cabin 
fashion. 



Query 397.— J/z-j-. F. P. B., New 
London, Conn.: ^^ A recipe for currant 
jelly, which I recently tried to follow, 
reads : ' Cook slowly till curra?its look 
zvhite,^ afid recommends heating the 
sugar. What is meant by the first ex- 
pression, and why heat the sugar { " 
Currant felly. 

Most cooks think their way of mak- 
ing currant jelly the best. Individu- 
ally, we think that way the best that 
calls for the least cooking, as the cur- 
rant flavor is lost by cooking. We 
should express the juice, without cook- 
ing, then, when the juice boils, add 
the heated sugar ; thus added, the juice 
does not stop boiling, and, if a small 
quantity be boiled at one time, it is 
soon ready to pour into the glasses. 
Currant skins, from which the juice 
has been taken either by cooking or 
pressure, look white ; and this is prob- 
ably what is meant in the recipe re- 
ferred to. 



Query 39S. — Mrs. S. L. F., Barn- 
well, S. C. : " Fart of our fa7nily are 
vegetarians^ and in making biscuit we 
use cottonseed oil for shortenijig : but the 
biscuits are tough. They are also tough 
ivhen butter is used. Is the four at 
fault? It is the best we can buy here.''^ 
Tough Biscuit. 

Use pastry flour ; bread flour milled 



especially for yeast mixtures, though 
more expensive, is not the best to use 
with other leavening agents. If sweet 
or sour cream be available, use one or 
the other with baking powder or soda, 
as is needed, adding also the oil or 
butter, two tablespoonfuls to one quart 
of flour. 



Query 399. — Mrs. f. M. S., Chan- 
die rvi lie, III.: ^^ Recipes for fruit salad 
ivithout bananas, caramel cream, afid 
velvet cake.'" 

Fruit Salad. 

Slice three sweet oranges, length- 
wise, after removing the skin and pith ; 
skin, seed, and cut in halves half a 
pound of white grapes. Toss together 
with two or three tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil : toss again with a generous 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, sprinkle 
ver}' lightly with salt, and serve within 
a circle of heart leaves of lettuce. May- 
onnaise dressing, either alone, or mixed 
with whipped cream, may also be used. 
Serve as soon as dressed. 

Cara?nel Ice-Cream. 

Stir and cook one cup of sugar untfl 
it becomes caramel ; dissolve in one 
quart of scalded milk : cook in the milk, 
while dissolving the caramel, two tea- 
spoonfuls of. cornstarch diluted with a 
little cold milk; let cook ten minutes, 
then add the yolks of three eggs beaten 
and mixed with half a cup of sugar ; 
strain, and let cool ; add one pint of 
cream and freeze as usual. 

Velvet Sponge Cake. 

Beat the yolks of six eggs until light- 
colored and thick ; gradually add two 
cups of sugar, beating constantly, then 
very gradually one cup of boiling water; 
add two cups and one-half of flour 
sifted with two (level) tablespoonfuls 
of baking-powder, and, lastly, the whites 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



141 



of three eggs, beaten stiff, and a tea- 
spoonful of lemon extract. Bake in 
two loaves. 



Query _^oo.— J/. Z. D., Fine Bluff, 
Ark. : "'Recipe for light-colored boiled 
pudding, without spice. What is " crime 
de ?nenthe,'' and where can it be procured ? 
Menu — not to exceed three courses — 
for a music club of tzuenty 7?iembers.'^ 
Crhne de Menthe. 

Creme de menthe is a cordial or 
liqueur prepared from alcohol, sugar, 
and peppermint. It may be purchased 
in cities at druggists', or at stores where 
fine groceries are kept. Creme-de- 
menthe ice is occasionally served at a 
ladies' luncheon in the library imme- 
diately after the luncheon. The cor- 
dial is said to contain but little, if any, 
more alcohol than is used in vanilla 
and other extracts. For pudding recipe 
see recipe for cranberry puffs. 

Menu for Music Club. 

I. 

Whitefish in Paper Cases. Olives. 

Chickex-and-Mushroom Salad. 
Graham-and- White-Bread Sandwiches. 

Ginger Ice-Cream. 
White Sponge Drops. Coffee. 

II. 

Orange-and-White-Grap"e Salad. 

White-Bread Sandwiches. 

Pecan Sticks. Othellos. Meringues. 

Cocoa with Whipped Cream. 

Pick cooked whiterish in shreds. For 
each cup of fish make a scant cup of 
cream sauce, and fiavor with five or 
six drops of onion juice and a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice. Season with 
salt and pepper; stir the fish into the 
hot sauce, and turn into buttered paper 
cases : sprinkle with buttered cracker 
crumbs and brown in the oven. Serve 



very hot. Oysters, lobster, chicken, or 
veal may be used. For the salad use 
fresh mushrooms, or the French canned 
button mushrooms. One bottle of 
mushrooms will sumce for the meat of 
two chickens. Cut the mushrooms in 
quarters, lengthwise, and add half as 
much celer}^ as meat. Use mayonnaise 
or boiled dressing. 



Query 401. — /. M. J/., Xtw York 
City : ' 'Ideas for a ' stag dinner ' for the 
early part of October.'' 

Menu for •• Stag Dinner.'* 

Canapes of Norwegian Anchovies. 

Chicken a la Reine, or Consomme au 

Pates. 

Lobster Newburgh. 

Marinade of Lamb Chops, Broiled. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Mushroom Puree. Oyster Bolchees. 

Saddle of Venison, Currant Jelly. 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad. 

Cauliflower, Cheese Sauce. Baba. 

Ices in Meringues. 
Broiled Mushrooms. Cafe Xoir 

Serve the canape's in little glass 
dishes or on plates. Cover the round 
or crescent shaped bit of buttered and 
browned bread with chopped white of 
Qgg dressed with oil and vinegar : sift 
over the yolk, arrange on this fi'.lets of 
Norwegian anchovies : decorate the 
disli with slices of lemon and quarters 
of hard-boiled egg. 

After trimming the superfiuous fat 
from the chops, and scraping the bones, 
let stand several hours in a mari- 
nade composed of four tablespoon- 
fuls of oil to one of vinegar, also a 
mild onion sliced, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, and half a dozen, 
each, of peppercorns and cloves : turn 
occasionallv. and. when readv to broil, 



142 



Tin-: HOSTOX COOKIXC-SCIIOOI. AfACAX/X/:. 



drain and wipe, then brusli over lightly 
with melted butter or olive oil. Serve 
around a mound of well-mashed and 
seasoned potato arranged to hold a 
puree of mushrooms or buttered fla- 
geolets. Cover the ends of the chop 
bones with paper frills. Prepare a 
brown sauce for the oysters used to 
fill the bouche'es. Fill half the mer- 
ingues with water ice, the other half 
with cream ice, and press together in 
pairs. Finish the repast with a single 
broiled mushroom on a round of toast 
for each service. 



Query 402. — 6". A. M., Stewart- 
ville, Minji. : " What is paprica ^ Give 
recipe for foftiato Jelly.'' 
Faprica. 

Paprica is ground Hungarian sweet 
pepper. It is a mild condiment dis- 
tinguished by the fact that when mois- 
tened it imparts its color to whatever 
is combined with it. 

T^oinato Jelly.* 

Soak three-fourths a box of gelatine 
in half a cup of cold water. Cook a 
can of tomatoes, half an union, a stalk 
of celery, a bay leaf, two cloves, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a dash of paprica 
ten minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls 
of tarragon vinegar and the gelatine ; 
stir till dissolved, then strain into a 
mould. Serve with salad dressing, or 
as a garnish to a dressed salad. 



Query 403. — Mrs. C. B. M., New 
York City : " What books would you 
recommend one to read who is tryifig to 
get some knowledge of domestic scietice I " 
Books 071 Domestic Science. 
Domestic science is a very compre- 
hensive subject, and a short list of 
books on the subject such as we can 
print at this time is not very satisfac- 



tory. We would include in any con- 
siderable list : " Education of Man," 
Frobel ; *' Treatise on Hygiene and 
Public Health," by A. H. Buck; 
" Methods and Results of Investiga- 
tions on the Chemistry and Econ- 
omy of Food," by W. O. Atwater ; 
" Food and its Functions," by James 
Knight: "Dust and its Dangers," by 
T. M. Prudden ; " Story of the Bac- 
teria," by T. M. Prudden ; " How to 
Drain a House," by G. E. Waring, 
Jr.; "Ventilation and Heating," by J. 
S. Billings ; " Chemistry of Cooking," 
by Mattieu Williams; "The Spirit of 
Cookery," Thudicum; "Home Econom- 
ics," by Maria Parloa; " Domestic Ser- 
vice," by Lucy M. Salmon ; " Chemistry 
of Cooking and Cleaning," by jNIrs. 
Richards, and " Household Art," by 
Mrs. Candace Wheeler. 



Query 404. — C. S. A., Toledo, O. : 
'•'' Recipes for using cold meat.'" 

Roast or Braised Beef in Gravy. 

Chop half a green pepper, after re- 
moving the seeds. Cook in a table- 
spoonful of butter, a few moments, 
then add a cup of the brown sauce 
made for the meat when it was first 
served. When boiling add a few 
drops only of Worcestershire sauce, 
and a cup of thin slices of meat from 
w^hich all skin and gristle have been 
removed. Do not let boil, but serve 
as soon as thoroughly heated. 
Scalloped Mutton. 

Boil until tender about a cup of 
macaroni broken in inch pieces. Make 
a pint of tomato sauce. Put a layer 
of the macaroni in a butteried baking- 
dish, cover with tomato sauce, now 
add a layer of cold mutton cut in thin 
slices and trimmed neatly, then a layer 
of macaroni and sauce, with a layer of 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCIIOOL MAGAZIXE. 



143 



meat and sauce above, and cover with 
a cup of cracker crumbs stirred into 
one-third a cup of melted butter. Set 
into the oven long enough to brown 
the crumbs. 

Creamed Chickeft. 

Make a cup of sauce, using chicken 
liquor, cream, or milk as the liquid. 
When boiling, add a cup of chicken 
cut in cubes. When thoroughly heated 
(without boiling), serve in a border of 
plain boiled rice into which a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped parsley and 
two tablespoonfuls of butter have been 
stirred. 

Chicken Cf'oqiiettes. 

Stir a pint of fine-chopped chicken 
into a cup and a quarter of sauce 
made of one-third a cup of flour, three 
tablespoonfuls of butter, a cup of 
chicken stock, and one-fourth a cup of 
cream ; season with onion and lemon 
juice, salt and pepper. When thor- 
oughly chilled, shape as desired, ^gg- 
and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. 



Query 405. — Miss M. E. (9., Lit- 
tle Falls, N. v.: '' Ki7idly repeat the 
sauce for ice-cream printed in the Maga- 
zine about one year ago^ 
Chocolate Sauce for Vanilla Ice- Cream. 

Mix two ounces of grated chocolate 
and two cups of granulated sugar ; add 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a 
cup of water, and a piece of cinnamon 
bark an inch long; cook to the soft- 
ball stage ; remove the cinnamon and 
pour hot over each serving of vanilla 
ice-cream. The sauce will candy upon 
the cold cream. 



Query 406. — A subscriber, San 
Francisco, Cal. : ''Can cooking -fat be 
cleaned indefifiitely ? Also recipes for 
leftovers.^' 



Purification of Frying-Fat. 

Fat may be cleaned indefinitely for 
frying purposes, if it has not been 
burned. After fat has been over- 
heated or burned, food cooked in it 
does not taste well, nor does it take on 
the color desired in fried food. One 
reason why olive oil is an economical 
frying medium is because it may be 
heated to a temperature of 600° Fahr. 
without burning. Animal fats are 
overheated after reaching a tempera- 
ture of 400° Fahr. By taking proper 
care and testing with a bit of bread, 
no fat need be overheated. Each 
time after using, when the fat has be- 
come cool, the sediment (flour, crumbs, 
etc., from the articles fried), which will 
burn before the fat becomes hot 
enough for frying, should be removed 
from the bottom of the cake of fat. 
When frying is again in order, add a 
potato cut in thin slices to the melted 
fat ; let cook until bubbling ceases 
and the slices are browned, then skim 
out. The porous potato will have ab- 
solved the odors and impurities and 
thus have cleansed and purified the 
fat. 

Shepherd^s Pie. 

Brown an onion, sliced, in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter; add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and cook until 
frothy; add salt and pepper and one 
pint of stock made from the bones and 
trimmings of whatever meat is at hand ; 
after boiling a few minutes add three 
cups of meat, nicely trimmed, turn into 
a baking -dish, and cover with hot 
mashed potato (reheated) ; brush over 
the potato with the yolk of an egg 
diluted with a little milk, brown in the 
oven, and serve at once. 
Mutton Hash. 

To a pint of thin slices of cold mut- 



144 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXC-SC HOOL MAGAZIXE. 



ton, neatly trimmed, add the juice of 
half a lemon, a teaspoonful of onion 
juice, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley, half a cup of cold stock (that 
in which the mutton was cooked will 
do), and a teaspoonful of Worcester 
sauce; let the meat stand two or three 
hours. Make a cup and a half of 
rather thick sauce ; add the meat and 
such liquid as has not been absorbed, 
salt and pepper, and a tablespoonful 
of capers or fine - chopped cucumber 
pickles. Let stand, without boiling, 
until very hot. Serve on toast, or in- 
side a border of mashed potato. 
Mouhied Cereal fo?- Frying. 

Turn any cereal left from breakfast, 
while hot, into buttered baking-pow- 
der boxes. When cold turn from the 
boxes, cut in slices, dredge lightly wdth 
flour, and saute' in hot bacon fat or 
dripping. Or, egg- and- bread-crumb, 
and fry in deep fat. 

Onion Souffle. 

Cook three tablespoonfuis of flour in 
four tablespoonfuis of butter; add half 
a cup of the liquid left in the dish after 
serving boiled onions, or use milk, a 
few grains, each, of salt and paprica, 
then add enough cooked onions passed 
through a coarse sieve to make three- 
fourths a cup : reheat, and add the 
yolks of three eggs beaten light, and 
fold in the whites of three eggs beaten 
dry. Bake, standing in a dish of hot 
water, about twenty-five minutes, and 
serve at once. Turnip is good pre- 
pared in this way. 



Query 407. — A. H., Harlem, X. Y. : 
^'-Recipes for baked or steamed Indian pud- 
ding, Xesselrode pudding with whipped- 
cream sauce.' ^ 

Baked Indian Pudding. 

Scald one quart of milk. Pour this 



gradually on three tablespoonfuis of 
granulated Indian meal. Cook one 
hour in a double-boiler, stirring often, 
then add three tablespoonfuis of but- 
ter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a cup 
of molasses, two eggs, and a quart of 
cold milk. Mix well, pour into a well- 
buttered dish, and bake one hour. 
Serve wdth whipped cream. 

Steamed Indian Pudding. 

Sift together one cup and a half of 
Indian meal, half a cup of wheat flour, 
two teaspoonfuls (level) of baking-pow- 
der, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; 
add one generous cup of grated maple 
sugar and one cup of beef suet chopped 
fine; mix thoroughly, then add one 
cup and a fourth of sweet milk : mix 
thoroughly and steam three or four 
hours. Serve with butter, 

Xesselrode PuddiJig. 

Shell and blanch one cup and a half 
of Italian chestnuts; boil until tender; 
while hot pass half of them through a 
sieve ; cut the other half into small 
cubes, add one-third a pound of French 
fruit cut into small pieces, pour over 
them two or three tablespoonfuis of 
sherry or maraschino and let stand 
several hours. Boil a cup and a half 
of sugar and one-third a cup of water 
five minutes ;- beat the yolks of five 
eggs until thick, then pour the syrup 
over the egg in a fine stream, stirring 
all the time ; then cook over hot water 
until the mixture coats the spoon. Beat 
until cold, then add the mashed chest- 
nuts, a cap and a half of cream and 
half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 
and freeze. When frozen, add the 
fruit and chestnuts and mix thoroughly. 
Turn the mixture into a mould, stand- 
ing in ice and salt, and press the cover 
down tightly over a piece of wrapping- 
paper spread over the pudding : let 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXK. 



145 



Stand buried in four parts of ice to one 
of salt until ready to use. To serve, 
turn from the mould and surround with 

WHIPPED CREAM SAUCE. 

Dilute three-fourths a cup of thick 
cream with one-fourth a cup of milk, 
and beat, until stiff, with a Dover egg- 
beater; add one-third a cup of pow- 
dered sugar and a few drops of vanilla. 

Query 408.— A. ff., Harlem, N. V. : 
^^ Ho7V to boil a leg of lamb or micfton, 
cook beef a la mode^ a>id roist fowls, so 
as to have them tender and juicy : also 
recipe for beefsteak and onions'" 

Cooki/ig of Various Meats. 

Put a leg of mutton or lamb on to 
cook in boiling water ; let the water 
boil vigorously five or six minutes, thus 
searing over the meat upon the outside 
to keep in the juices; then set the ket- 
tle where the liquid will bubble occa- 
sionally very gently on one side. Keep 
at this temperature until tender; the 
length of time required will vary with 
the age, and other conditions, of the 
creature from which the meat is taken. 
Only long, slow cooking will produce 
satisfactory results. Add salt after the 
meat begins to become tender. If the 
meat is cooked some time before the 
hour of serving, its quality will not be 
impaired if it be kept hot. 

For beef a la mode, buy a piece from 
the under part of the round or the face 
of the rump; let stand in a marinade 
several hours (half a cup, each, of vine- 
gar and oil, a chopped onion, eight 
peppercorns, bay leaf, and chopped 
parsley), basting often. When ready 
to cook, wipe dry and brown on all 
sides in hot dripping (to sear over 
the outside, and to give a good flavor 
to the meat), then half cover with boil- 
ing water and let cook at the simmer- 



ing-point (adding salt as before) from 
four to seven hours. Thicken the gravy 
with flour and water to serve with the 
meat. 

To roast fowls, rub over with salt and 
pepper, put strips of bacon or fat salt 
pork over the breast, and set on the 
rack in the pan without water, into a 
hot oven. Turn the fowl, that all sides 
be exposed to the greatest heat, and 
sear over the outside, then baste with 
hot water and dripping, and add hot 
water to the pan; baste every ten min- 
utes. At the last dredge with salt, 
peppjr, and flour, after each basting. 
Cook three hours and upwards. 
Stuff.'d Beefsteak with Onions. 

Buy two pounds of steak from the 
top of the round; boil three onions 
fifteen or twenty minutes, then chop 
fine and mix with one cup of soft 
bread crumbs ; season with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a dash of paprica. 
Spread the steak on a meat -board, 
make incisions on the inner surface a 
few inches apart, and fill these with 
the onion mixture, then roll up the 
meat and tie in close shape. Heat an 
iron saucepan and melt in this half 
a cup of dripping or salt-pork fat ; put 
in the meat, and brown on all sides, 
then cover and let cook, very slowly, 
on the back of the range, two or three 
hours ; then pour or dip off all the fat, 
add a cup of stock or hot water, and 
cook until tender. Serve on a hot 
dish after removing the strings and the 
gravy. 

Broiled Beefsteak and Onions. 

Just before broiling the steak slice 
two large, mild onions very thin, and 
fry in three or four tablespoonfuls of 
butter, as is needed. Do not allow the 
onions to become too dark- colored. 
While the onions are cooking put a 



46 



THE BOSTOX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZIXE. 



sirloin steak, an inch and a half thick, 
and weighing between two and three 
pounds, in a well-oiled double broiler, 
the fat edge of the meat towards the 
handle ; put directly over and close to 
the coals and cook about ten minutes, 
turning every ten seconds. Draw the 
meat farther away from the coals after 
the first forty seconds. Remove to a 
hot serving dish, dust with salt and 
pepper, spread lightly with butter, 
sprinkle with a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley and spread the onions 
on the top. Cover, and let stand in 
the oven not longer than three or four 
minutes. Do not omit the parsley. 

Query 409. — Mrs. J. S., Neligh^ 
Keb. : '' Recipe for viakitig prepared 
floor wax-y 

Floor Wax. 

Melt one pound of wax over hot 
water ; when quite soft remove from 
the water and beat in one pint of tur- 
pentine, then, if a soft tinish is desired, 
add one gill of paralitine oil ; if a hard 
finish is preferred, omit the oil and 
add one gill of alcohol. 



Query 410. — Mrs. A. J., Youngs- 
town^ O. : ** Ca7i sal-soda be used by the 
average maid or laujidress without in- 
jwy to the articles laundei-ed I " 
Sal-soda for the Laufidry. 

Sal-soda may be used in the laundry 
to advantage, if both the laundress 
and housekeeper will bear in mind 
that it is to be used to lighten work 
and shorten time, and not to do away 
with all work save rinsing. Any chem- 
ical of such strength as to remove all 
soil from clothing without rubbing will 
destroy, or at least make very ten- 
der, the fabric so treated. To use 
properly, heat one pound of sal-soda 
in one quart of water (it will be per- 



fectly dissolved by the time the boil- 
ing-point is reached), let cool, and 
store in bottles. Add one-fourth a cup 
to a tub of the usual size rather more 
than half filled with water. The solu- 
tion must always be added to the 
water. 



Query 411. — Mrs. R. P., Akro?i,0.: 
" Ifo7ci is Devonshii-e cream, to serve 
li'ith Junket, prepared ^ " 

Devonshire Cream. 

Let a pan of milk stand in a cool 
place twenty-four hours, then set the 
pan on the back of the range and 
heat the milk very slowly about to 
the boiling-point, not, however, let- 
ting it boil. Now set the pan in a 
cool place for six hours, or longer. 
At serving- time skim off the cream 
and put a spoonful on the top of each 
individual cup of junket prepared in 
the usual manner. If the junket needs 
additional flavoring, dust with cinna- 
mon or gratings of nutmeg before add- 
ing the cream. Many omit all flavor- 
ing, as the cream has a particularly 
delicate, sweet flavor peculiar to this 
dish. 



Query 412. — Mrs. E. M., West 
Roxbury : ^^ 'Recipe for the chocolate 
sauce served at soda-water fountaitis 
with vanilla ice-c?-eam under the na??te 
of chocolate frappe.^'' 

Sauce for Chocolate Frappe. 

Grate one ounce of chocolate, mix 
with one cup of sugar and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt ; add one cup 
and a half of boiling water, stir, and 
cook five minutes after boiling begins ; 
then add one level teaspoonful and a 
half of arrow-root, mixed smooth in 
half a cup of cold water, and let boil 
five minutes. Use when cold flavored 
with one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 




News and Notes. 



The programme of fall demonstra- 
tions at the Boston Cooking-School is 
as follows : — 

November 7 and 9 — Quick Lunch- 
eon Dishes and Simple Desserts. 

November 14 and 16 — Pastry. 

November 21 and 23 — Suggestions 
for Thanksgiving Feasting. 

December 5 and 7 — Bread and Muf- 
fins. 

December 12 and 14 — Holiday 
Sweets. 

December 19 and 21 — Christmas 
Dinner. 

January 2 and 4 — Soups and En- 
trees. 

January 9 and 1 1 — Luncheon for 
Six, $5. 

January 16 and 18 — Cake and 
Frosting. 

January 23 and 25 — Evening Sup- 
per. 

January 30, February i — Family 
Dinner. 

February 6 and 8 — Salads, and 
How to Serve Them. 

Season tickets for the evening lec- 
tures, with reserved seat, $3.50. 



Miss Sarah C. Hill, Class of '00, 
has been appointed resident teacher to 
take charge of the diet kitchen at 
Michael Reese Hospital, Chicago. 



Miss Alice Brady, Class of '97, has 
charge of the diet kitchen at the Mas- 
sachusetts Homoeopathic Hospital, in 
Boston. 



Miss Heald, Class of '99, has re- 
signed her position at Grace Hospital, 
Detroit, and will begin work at the 
Roosevelt and Post Graduate Hospi- 
tals, New York, about October i. 



Miss Stella A. Dodge, Class of '99, 
has been appointed teacher at the Erie 
(Pa.) Cooking- School. 



Miss Helen Armstrong, of Chicago, 
is giving demonstrations in cookery in 
various parts of the West. In Sep- 
tember she was engaged at the Wiscon- 
sin State Fair, held in Milwaukee. 



Mo DEN A, Pa. 
Dear Edito7% — In reading my last number 
of the Boston Cooking-School Magazine^ 
I noted a query, asking if it was possible to 
keep odorous foods in the same refrigerator 
with milk and butter. If I might be permitted 
to offer a suggestion, I would like to tell how 
we have overcome such a difficulty. For the 
past two years we have been using parchment 
paper (it can be bought in rolls). We have 
wrapped fish, canteloupe, bacon, and ham — in 
fact, anything odorous we wanted to keep cool, 
— in parchment paper, and have put it in the 
same cojnpartment with butter or milk for sev- 
eral hours at a time, and have never known 
either butter or milk to taste. Friends who use 
it say the same. The paper is perfectly water- 
proof, and can be washed out, carefully dried 
in the sun, and put away to use again ; we 
have used one piece five or six times. A 
housekeeper who has once tried it will never 
want to be without it, as it can be used in so 
many other ways also. 

Very respectfully, 

M. B. N. 



148 



71IK BOSIXW COOKJXG-SCJiOOL MACAZIXE. 



BOOK REVIEWS, 



ICES, AND HOW TO MAKE THKM. 

by Charles Hornian Scnn. Cloth. 
Price, Is. (xl. net. London : Pood and 
Cookery Association. 

This is a popular treatise on cream, 
water and fancy dessert ices, ice pud- 
dings, mousses, parfaits, granites, cool- 
ing cups, punches, etc. In small space 
and convenient form it contains all the 
information that can well be desired in 
reference to the art of making iced 
dishes, one of the most fascinating 
branches of cookery. 

The author is, perhaps, the highest 
living authority in Europe or America, 
on culinary science. He is also the 
author of many practical and standard 
works on cookery. In the introduc- 
tory part of this little volume we find 
the following bit of interesting informa- 
tion : — 

"Ices were originally introduced by 
Catherine de Medici in the sixteenth 
century. It was about this time that 
the French people learned how to 
freeze water artificially. Whilst water 
ices, shaped in moulds, were first 
served in France in 1660. Soon after 
this they were introduced into Eng- 
land. Ices derive their present great 
popularity from America, where they 
are consumed during the summer as 
well as winter months in enormous 
quantities. " 



THE DOMESTIC BLUNDERS OF 
WOMEX. By A Mere Man. Cloth. 
16nio. Price, $1.00. New York : 
Funk & VVagnalls Company. 

The chief points of criticism in this 
book are that woman, in general, are 
ignorant of the value of money ; they 
do not keep accounts ; and they utterly 
ignore business principles. The argu- 
ment runs thus : " the house " is a 
branch of "the office" and a wife 
should be a partner in the concern. 
For all blunders the best remedy of- 
fered is contained in the simple state- 



ment: A business cannot be carried 
on unless accounts are kept. 

We like the idea of connecting busi- 
ness methods so directly with home 
economics. The main value of the 
book consists in making this point 
clear and strong; attention is thus 
called to a very important matter. At 
the same time, the author's claims and 
criticisms are doubtless exaggerated. 
His picture is overdrawn. Too often, 
in this mutual " concern," money is 
spent lavishly in clubs and junketing 
and doled out most sparingly for house- 
hold expenses. We venture the asser- 
tion that, in nine cases out ten, if a 
wife were given a fair allowance for 
managing the house, with the under- 
standing that any surplus became 
personal pin money, the balance would 
appear on the rij^ht side of the account. 

But not the least interesting part of 
the volume is that of the correspon- 
dence called forth by the sweeping 
charges of A Mere Man. One thing 
surely a woman will never do, and 
that is acknowledge her mistakes. 
The letters of dissent from the views 
of the author are keen and ably ex- 
pressed. In them the writers meet 
and answer effectively every point of 
attack. In fact, we are not certain but 
that in this little episode the author 
is beaten with his own weapon — 
"hoisted on his own petard." 

Vlatts Chlorides . 

The Household Disinfectant 
instantly destroys foul odors and 
disease-breeding matter, preventing 
much sickness. 

An odorless, colorless liquid ; powerful, safe 
and economical. Sold in quart bottles only, 
by Druggists and high-class Grocers. Prepared 
only by Henry B. Piatt, Piatt St., New York. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 



49 



( Concluded from page ii8.) 
continue to rise, and begin to brown ; 
then should become all over a rich 
golden brown ; and in the last quarter 
settle a little, brown in the cracks, and 
shrink from the pan." 

Sometimes, especially in the oven 
of a coal or wood range, it seems nec- 
essary to move a cake. In the " first 
quarter," or early in the second, it may 
be moved very gently ; after this screen 
with tin baking-sheets or paper ; for, 
when a cake has reached its full height, 
and the cells have not become fixed 
by the heat, the slight jar of moving 
breaks down the cells, and no carbon 
dioxide remains by which other cells 
may be evolved, and the cake is 
"heavy." If desired, the oven door 
may be opened a reasonable number 
of times, provided it be done without 
jarring the cake. 

Cakes, with the exception, perhaps, 
of pound cake, are fully baked when 
they shrink from the pan, and settle 
to a level. All cakes are well done, 
when they make only a slight singing 
noise, or when the surface rebounds at 
once on being pressed with the finger. 

''DAINTY FOOD/' 

TURNS PALE CHEEKS TO PINK. 

Our best physicians of the present 
day seek to cure patients by the use 
of food, rather than heavy drugs ; and 
this is the true method, for all physi- 
cians agree that only from food can 
the body be rebuilt. 

Many people fail to give their phy- 
sicians credit, for, after living on poorly 
selected or badly cooked food for a 



long time, perhaps, and when their 
ailments become chronic, they expect 
the doctor, with some magic potency, 
to instantly rebuild them. 

This is not possible. The only true 
method is to turn, as quickly as can 
be, from poor food to good. A young 
lady, Miss Alice Hendricks, employed 
at the corner of Fourth and Race 
Streets, Cincinnati, O., says: " I was 
variously treated for my nerves, mus- 
cles, lungs, etc., but none of the treat- 
ment gave me relief from the pains. 

" About a year ago my appetite 
failed completely, and I began to have 
sinking spells similar to fainting ; then 
I took all manner of tonics and stimu- 
lants, but they were of no effect. I 
had been brought to quit drinking 
coffee, and taking Postum Food Coffee 
in its place, and gradually began to 
get a little better. 

" Someone suggested that if I found 
Postum Food Coffee so beneficial I 
had better use Grape -Nuts food, as 
they were both the children of one 
brain. I commenced on Grape-Nuts 
food for breakfast, having Postum 
Food Coffee with it. I found the food 
so dainty, delicious, and appetizing 
that I always looked forward to break- 
fast with pleasure. 

" Shortly after commencing this diet 
my wretched .pain in the side was 
greatly improved, and now, a year 
later, it has gone entirely, also the 
sinking spells; in fact, my pale cheeks 
have changed to pink, I have gained 
back more than the twenty pounds I 
had lost, and am thoroughly well in 
every way." 



Housekeeper's Memoranda. 

For the present, this page will appear in this position in each issue of the Macjazine. 



7o Remove Fresh Tea and Coffee 
Stains. — Place the stained linen over 
a large bowl and pour through it boil- 
ing water from the teakettle, held at a 
height to insure force. 

To Remove Old Tea arid Coffee Stains. 

— Soak in cold water first, then use 
boiling water, as above. 

To Remove Cocoa and Chocolate Stains. 

— Use cold water first, then boiling 
water, as above. 

To Remove Cla?'et Stains from Tabic 
IJjien. — As soon as possible cover the 
stains with salt ; let stand a few min- 
utes, then rinse in cold water. 

To Remove Frmt Stains. — Pour 
boiling water over the stained surface. 
Arrange the cloth in such a manner 
that the water passes through a single 
thickness, and from a height above it. 

To Remove Obstinate Fruit Stains. 

— Use three ounces of oxalic acid to 
one pint of water. Wet the stain with 
the solution, place over a kettle of hot 
water in the steam or in the sunshine. 
Rinse well the instant the stain disap- 
pears ; wet the stain with ammonia to 
counteract the acid remaining. Then 
rinse it thoroughly again. 

To Remove Blood Stains. — Use 
clear, cold water at first, then soap and 
watpr. 

To Remove Ink Spots from Gingham. 

— Wet the spots with milk, and cover 
them with common salt. Let stand 
some hours, then rinse in several 
waters. 

To Remove Inks Spots. — Put one or 
two drops of oxalic acid on the spots, 
rinse in several waters, and finally in 
ammonia. 

To Remove Grass Stairis. — Allow 
the spots to remain saturated with 
alcohol for a little time, then wash in 
clear water. 

To Ronove Mildew. — Use lemon 
juice and sunshine, or, if deep seated, 
soak in a solution of one tablespoonful 
of chloride of lime in four quarts of 



cold water until the mildew disappears. 
Rinse several times in clear water. 

To Remove Red Iro7i Rust. — Cover 
the spots with salt, moisten with lemon 
juice, let stand a time, adding more 
salt and lemon. If not successful with 
these, use for fast colors muriatic acid. 
Spread the cloth over a large bowl of 
hot water, touch the dry spots with a 
drop or two of the acid ; when the rust 
disappears, rinse several times in clear 
water, and then in water in which there 
is a little ammonia. 



NEW COMMUNITIES. 

PREDICTION OF DR. OGBORNE. 

"There is no question in my mind 
that whole communities, who now suf- 
fer from the bad effects of coffee, 
would be revolutionized, if they knew 
of the actual facts regarding the use 
of coffee, and the help that could be 
obtained from the use of Postum Cereal 
Food Coffee. In my own case, coffee 
produced dizziness, heart palpitation, 
and sallowness of complexion. When 
I abandoned the ordinary coffee and 
took up Postum the difficulties were 
removed." — Rev. W. N. Ogborne, Ham- 
monton, N. J. 

Some people, when trying to break 
off the coffee habit, feel the lack of 
the stimulant so much that they mix 
half coffee and half Postum, then grad- 
ually reduce the amount of coffee until 
they drink Postum alone. 

Most people can break off from cof- 
fee at once, if they can have the Pos- 
tum Food Coffee, for the taste of the 
two is so much alike that many times 
the change is not noticed. The user 
invariably improves in health, and in 
a month's time shows a marked change 
for the better. 



The 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. V. 



DECEMBER, 1900, and JANUARY, 1901, 



No. 4. 




Dining-room Chairs 

Bv Henrv L. Johnson 



AMERICANS are aptly de- 

/ \ scribed as being in a con- 

A. JLstant state of unrest. This 

applies not only to conditions of home 

life, but to business. 

We are told that in England one can 
go back from year to year to a dealer 
in wall papers, and get the same pat- 
terns ; but this is not so in America. 
The first question the buyer asks is, 
" What have you got that is new ? " 
The dealer's greeting, in turn, to the 
manufacturer is, " What new styles 



have you 1 " So it comes about that, 
no matter how good a wall paper, a 
carpet, or a piece of furniture may 
be made this year, it becomes a back 
number next year. One chair manu- 
facturer complains that styles are just 
as temporary and changeable in chairs 
as in bonnets. 

Yet this change in style has no logi- 
cal basis. One does not buy a chair 
or other piece of furniture for a day or 
for a single year's use, but practically 
for a lifetime. Therefore, in selecting 



I<2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dining-room chairs one ought not to 
look for what is "the latest." The 
basis of selection should be such a 
style and finish as will best harmonize 
with the dining table, sideboard, or 
woodwork of the room itself. 

So far as present-day styles in chairs 
are concerned, the tendency is very 
strongly toward a reproduction of Co- 
lonial patterns. Chairs are now made 
with not nearly so much wood as a 
few years ago, when heavy panelled 
backs and wide wooden frames on the 
seats were in vogue. The most unfort- 
unate, unworthy production of Ameri- 
can manufacture in chairs has been of 
the type just described, with elaborate 
embossed designs on the panels and 
on every conceivable surface. The use 
of elaborately turned spindles and legs 
has also, fortunately, gone by. Some 





turned work, however, such as is shown 
in one of our illustrations of a Dutch 
chair, is in good taste. 



Extremely plain but good proportioned chair, 
costing about $3.00 

Five ordinary chairs and one arm- 
chair comprise the usual dining-room 
set. In some custom-made furniture 
the hostess's chair is made two inches 
higher and somewhat narrower than 
others. Nearly all dining-room chairs 
are now made with rush bottoms or are 
upholstered, in leather, and the best 
class of chairs have the back uphol- 
stered also. Some of the richest and 
best effects are produced in chairs of 
very simple lines, having much leather 
in the seat and backs studded with 
brass or leather-covered nails. 

Not only do the styles change from 
year to year, but each year shows some 
new finish in the lead. This year it is 
Golden Oak. Many chairs are being 
finished in Flemish Oak, to match the 
dining table and other, pieces of furni- 
ture. It is a simple matter to have the 



Dining-room Chairs 



153 



chairs match the furniture or finish of 
the dining-room, as nearly every man- 
ufacturer or dealer can readily finish 
his chairs as it may be desired. A 
drawer from the sideboard or a leaf 
from the dining table furnishes all that 
is necessary as a pattern for color and 
finish. 

Nearly all heavy dining chairs have 
casters on the two front legs. The 
tendency has been to make the seats 
too small and the backs too high, while 
ease and comfort ever should be the 
prime characteristics. 

The illustrations on the accompany- 
ing pages show some present styles 
of chairs which are sold at nearly all 
the larger retail stores. These chairs 
are by no means unusual or extreme 
in any way ; but they are given as ex- 
amples of good, durable styles and of 
moderate cost. 




A style often finished in Flemish Oak 






Bread and Bread-makin 



g 



By Janet M. Hill 

Bread is the staff of life, but bread and butter is a s^old-headed cane 



IN every part of the world, from 
the beginning of recorded time, 
bread has been a synonym of food. 
The cry of the starving in India, the 
mob in France, and the poor in Italy 
has ever been for bread. The reason 
for this is obvious, when we consider 
that very many even of the earlier and 
cruder forms of bread were made from 
cereals or corn-plants, as millet, oats, 
barley, and rye, and that these in them- 
selves contain all the elements neces- 
sary for the growth and repair of the 
body, and in very nearly the proportion 
demanded in an ideal dietary. At the 
present day, throughout the civilized 
world, wheat is known to be the grain 
that contains gluten in proportion and 
quality necessary to the making of the 
most perfect bread. 

A loaf of bread at least four thou- 
sand years old, a part of which was in 
such a state of preservation that it was 



possible to identify barley as the grain 
from which it was made, was lately 
found in Egypt. From records and 
monuments in that ancient land, we 
learn that the grain for bread was 
broken by pounding and that it was 
probably baked between or upon hot 
stones. The children of Israel ate 
leavened bread in Egypt, though the 
Chinese ha^ used leavened bread long 
years before the time of Moses and 
the exodus from Egypt. The ancient 
Greeks cultivated the yeast plant, and 
in excavations at Pompeii an oven was 
found containing eighty-one loaves of 
bread not unlike our own. The older 
and higher the civilization, the more 
advanced was the art of bread-making. 
Four hundred years ago the American 
Indian was just in the infancy of the 
art, and the wild tribes of South Africa, 
to-day, have progressed no farther. 
The bread of the ancients was made 



Bread and Bread-making 



55 



flat and thin, as thus the heat could 
better penetrate the heavy, compact 
dough ; and the expression " to break 
bread " was from the actual mode of 
division. Bourdeau notes that our rule 
of politeness, which exacts that bread 
be broken at table, instead of cutting 
it, is only the tradition of a very 
ancient custom. 

Though the art of bread-making is 
of such ancient origin and the oppor- 
tunity for a general diffusion of knowl- 
edge has been so great, good bread is 
not an article in common use. In 
cities abroad, bread is not baked at 
home ; and in this country, as more 
and more work is carried on outside 
the home kitchen, the baking of bread 
is sure to follow. At the present time 
one cannot secure from bakeries 
bread and rolls made from quite as 
good materials, or baked and cooled 
quite as carefully, as it is possible to 
provide at home. In general, the 
bread made abroad, on account of the 
size and shape of the loaf, contains 
less starch in a crude form than that 
which we may call the American loaf. 
While the foreign loaf is not acceptable 
to the average American, it probably 
approaches more nearly the dietetic 
conditions required by our modern 
mode of life. Just how far the conver- 
sion of starch into dexstrose, or allied 
substances, has proceeded in the crusty 
loaf has not been exactly determined ; 
and in the bread of the future chemical 
processes may be found by which the 
excess of starch that ordinary bread 
contains may be transformed or pre- 
sented in a form less taxing to the 
digestive organs. 

The process of making bread with 
yeast is one of the most fascinating of 
studies for the chemist or the cook. 



And the more the cook knows of the 
chemistry of bread-making, and the 
greater the skill with which she applies 
her knowledge to the practical working- 
out of the process, the greater are her 
chances of securing a perfect loaf. 
Four of the simplest ingredients in the 
culinary laboratory enter into the com- 
position of a loaf of bread ; yet the 
changes through which these materials 
pass before a finished loaf is evolved 
are the most complicated in all cook- 
ery. 

What is Good Bread 

Opinions differ as to just what prop- 
erties good bread should possess. 
Some wish a moist crumb and tender 
crust, others a dry crumb and a flinty 
crust. But there are certain points 
upon which all agree ; namely, bread 
should be agreeable in smell and taste, 
while it should be light and porous, 
to be easily penetrated by the di- 
gestive fluids. The bubbles of the 
crumb should be uniform in size and 
small. The surface should rebound 
when compressed, and the loaf should 
keep in good condition several days. 

Ingredients Used in Bread 

The four ingredients that enter into 
a loaf of bread are flour, yeast, salt, 
and liquid. Milk or water, or a part of 
each, may comprise the latter. Bread 
made with milk is more nutritious, but 
it dries more quickly than does bread 
in which water is used. The texture 
of milk bread, even with slight knead- 
ing, is velvety and pleasing. Half 
milk and half water is quite generally 
used. Water bread, without shorten- 
ing, carefully manipulated gives a loaf 
of nutty flavor, but with tough crust. 
The French excel in the production of 



156 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



this bread. Water with two table- 
spoonfuls of shortening to the pint is 
more generally preferred by American 
housekeepers. 

Structure of a Wheat Grain 

1. Wheat grains consist of an outer 
covering, largely silica, removed before 
milling. 

2. Three layers of bran coats in the 
form of cells, containing mineral mat- 
ter, gluten, oil, etc. 

3. A layer of cells, chiefly gluten 
and other proteid matter. 

4. Centre and largest part of the 
grain made up of cells, of which starch 
is the chief content. 

Starch and Gluten 

Mix wheat flour and water to form 

a dough. Let stand a short time, then 

wash it on a sieve over a pan of water. 

Let the water settle ; and, when it is 



are the chief constituents of flour, and 
the relative proportion of these two 
substances determines the character of 
the tlour. Gluten gives a strong, gray 
flour of slightly bitter taste, which will 
take up a large quantity of w^ater. 
Such flour "spends well."' Starch 
gives a more delicate white flour of 
sweet taste, which takes up, relatively, 
a small quantity of water. The tena- 
cious, elastic gluten is needed in yeast 
mixtures to hold the carbon dioxide 
that lifts up the dough and makes it 
light. But it is not as desirable in 
cake and pastry, where tenderness and 
delicacy are sought for. The relative 
proportion of starch and gluten in 
grains depends largely upon the soil 
and the climate in which the grain is 
grown. Hard spring wheat, planted 
in the spring and harvested in August 
or early September in Minnesota and 
in North and South Dakota, is particu- 




Bread Sticks with Pan. Salad Rolls. Recipe, page 179 



poured off, a white mass, which, when 
dried, is fine as dust, is found in the 
pan. This is starch. And the tough, 
gray, elastic mass left on the sieve, 
which may be taken up in the hands 
and pulled like candy, is gluten. These 



larly strong in gluten, and contains a 
minimum quantity of starch. Flour 
made from such wheat is designated 
as bread flour. Winter wheat is a 
softer variety, raised in the Middle 
and Southern States. It is planted in 



Bread and Bread-makin 



g 



57 



the fall, and harvested in the following 
June or July. Flour made from this 
wheat is designated as pastry flour, as 
it is well adapted to the purpose indi- 
cated by the name. 

When to use Bread and when 
Pastry Flour 

As a general rule, bread flour is 
indicated in recipes where yeast is 
used, and pastry flour in all other 
cases. Less flour to a given quantity 
of liquid is needed, when bread flour 
is used. For a change, it is occasion- 
ally advisable to use pastry flour in 
bread-making. It gives a sweeter- 
tasting loaf. 

How to distinguish Bread and 
Pastry Flour 

Bread flour is granular to the touch. 
It passes readily through the sieve : a 
jar will send it through. When mixed 
into a dough, it takes up a compara- 
tively large quantity of moisture. On 
the other hand, pastry flour is soft and 
oily to the touch. Pressed in the 
hand, it keeps its shape, showing the 
impress of the lines of the hand. It 
does not pass so readily through the 
sieve, and it absorbs a comparatively 
small amount of moisture. 

Milling Methods 

The old-fashioned way of making 
flour was to pulverize the wheat in 
one operation through mill-stones ; 
and then a crude separation of the 
flour and bran and other dark portions 
of the wheat berry was made by re- 
volving reels covered with what is 
known as silk bolting cloth. Nat- 
urally, the. separation was imperfect. 



and much of the brown portion re- 
mained in the flour. 

Modern milling is what is known as a 
gradual reduction system, whereby the 
wheat is gradually and carefully re- 
duced. The wheat is run through six 
systems of rolls, for the purpose of 
loosening the middlings. These mid- 
dlings are then purified by means of 
sieves and air-suction machines, which 
remove all the brown portion of the 
berry. The middlings are, after puri- 
fication, reduced to flour. 

The wheat grain is thoroughly 
cleaned and scoured before the flour- 
making process begins. 

Yeast in Bread-making 

Yeast is a collection of living, one- 
celled organisms that partake of the 
nature of plant rather more than of 
animal life. These organisms may 
be produced by cultivation. In a 
proper environment — with necessary 
warmth, moisture, and complex food 
to feed upon — these microscopic 
fungi bulge a little upon one side. 
This bulge takes on an oval shape, 
and soon separates from the parent 
cell as a distinct organism. Other 
cells quickly follow from the parent 
cell and from the new cells or buds ; 
and thus the yeast plants grow. The 
little yeast plants or cells are vigorous 
and tenacious of life, living under 
most adverse circumstances ; but 
these are killed on exposure to a 
temperature of about 212 degrees F. 
They endure cold much better, as life 
is simply suspended in a temperature 
of about 30 degrees F. The most fa- 
vorable temperature for their growth is 
between 65 degrees and 75 degrees F. 

A cake of compressed yeast, one 



S8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of the best forms in which a house- 
keeper can secure a supply of yeast, 
is a collection of yeast plants massed 
together, without the presence of 
suitable conditions for growth. By 
the exclusion of air and heat, the plants 
may be kept for some days alive and in 
vigorous condition for future growth. 

In making bread, we soften the 
cake in liquid, to separate the plants, 
and then stir them into the flour. 
Salt may be added as a matter of 
taste. It retards, perhaps, the growth 
of the plant. The little plants, finding 
in the starch and gluten of the flour 
a complex food which they enjoy, 
begin to feed and grow or bud ; and 
chemical changes take place. Starch 
is changed to sugar, and sugar to 



alcohol and carbon dioxide (carbonic 
acid gas). The gas, in its efforts 
to escape, expands the tenacious elas- 
tic cell walls of gluten in which it is 
entangled, and lifts up the dough. If 
this dough be subjected to heat (212) 
degrees F. at the centre), the alcohol 
and carbon dioxide will be driven off, 
the cell walls fixed, and sw^eet bread 
produced. But, if the dough be left to 
itself, this change, which is called 
alcoholic fermentation, will be fol- 
lowed by another change. The al- 
cohol breaks up into acetic acid and 
water ; and, if baked, the resultant 
bread will be sour. 

A good yeast cake is of a Hght even 
color. There is an absence of dark 
streaks through it. 



{Concluded in February-March number.) 




A New Year's Wish 

By Kate M. Post 



Welcome, New Year ! What gifts do you bring 

To my lassie, dainty and fair .? 
Nay, bring her not gold ; for that she has 

In the wealth of her shining hair. 

Do you bring her health and happiness, 
Such treasures as all may desire "i 

Or jewels and silk and filmy lace 
For her girlish eyes to admire ? 



Bring any or all, and scatter them 

At the feet of my little lass, 
But bring to her not those sorrows deep 

That imbitter life ere they pass. 

This boon I ask for my lassie fair, — 
You may grant it, 'tis only one, — 

Just sadness enough to shade her path 
From the dazzling glare of the sun. 



Cooking for a Field Hospital in War Time 

By Mary A. Livermore 



IT was the last of April, 1863, when 
the steamer "Omaha," in the ser- 
vice of the Sanitary Commission, 
arrived at Young's Point, on the west 
bank of the Mississippi, opposite Vicks- 
burg. The great river highway had 
been closed to navigation by the South- 
ern Confederates, and it was the pas- 
sion of the West to reopen it. This 
had been accomplished by the forces 
under General Grant as far as Vicks- 
burg, but there the movement was 
halted. The town occupied a com- 
manding position on the east bank of 
the river, which bristled with batteries 
ten miles along the river front, and tier 
above tier to the top of the highest 
bluff. The victorious Western army 
could make no farther progress down 
the river till Vicksburg consented or 
was conquered ; and it had gone into 
encampments, wherever it could find 
dry land in the "river-bottoms." 

Appalling sickness soon appeared 
among the troops. Their unvaried 
diet of "hard tack and salt junk" 
brought on scorbutic complaints. Their 
persistence in drinking the pleasant 
" seapage water," which they obtained 
by sinking a barrel in the dropsical 
soil, caused dysenteric and typhoid 
ailments ; while every breath they in- 
haled amid the pestilential swamps 
was laden with miasmatic poison. 
When at last General Grant announced 
that only 33 per cent, of his army was 
able to appear at parade, both the gov- 
ernment and the Sanitary Commission 
hastened to his relief. Every North- 
western State promptly despatched 



boats to the scene of suffering, laden 
with shipments of sanitary supplies ; 
and the first arrival of this beneficent 
little fleet was the " Omaha," sent by 
the State of Illinois. 

It was packed with an assortment of 
stores that comprised almost every- 
thing necessary in hospital relief, — po- 
tatoes, onions, and other vegetables, 
with sauer-kraut, for the scorbutic pa- 
tients, who constituted a majority of 
the sick. Farina, corn-starch, crackers, 
lemons, oranges, pearl-barley, tea, sugar, 
condensed milk, extracts of beef, des- 
iccated vegetables, codfish, canned 
fruits, jellies, and, in short, whatever 
might be needed for sick and wounded 
men. Accompanying this immense 
shipment were eminent physicians and 
surgeons, and men and women of ex- 
ecutive ability who attended to the 
safe transmission of the valuable sup- 
plies and to their equitable distribu- 
tion. Some three or four nurses who 
were returning to their work from a 
brief furlough, with two men and two 
women officially connected with the 
Sanitary Commission, constituted a 
special corps of relief that was to 
make itself useful in any way among 
the sick and wounded. 

Most of the hospitals at Young's 
Point were regimental ; for the occupa- 
tion of the place was only temporary, 
and the establishment of a permanent 
general hospital was not attempted. 
There were several field hospitals 
made by pitching tents in a row, each 
one opening into the other ; but they 
were noisome and desolate. Nearly a 



i6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



hundred and fifty men were accommo- 
dated in these, all sick with diseases 
that had assumed a chronic form. They 
were to be sent North in a few days, 
on the arrival of the hospital steamer 
" City of Memphis " ; and this seemed 
to furnish an excuse for an utter neg- 
lect of them. Their only nurses were 
convalescent soldiers, nearly as feeble 
as themselves. Their surgeon lacked 
force and vital sympathy with his pa- 
tients ; and their food was the regular 
army ration, whatever that might hap- 
pen to be. The women of the little 
party immediately decided to devote 
themselves to these hopeless invalids 
while they waited the arrival of the 
hospital steamer, and forthwith we 
hunted up the surgeon. 

He indicated the special diet neces- 
sary to the various patients, and put 
to our service the negroes, who had 
cooked for the men, and his " conven- 
iences for cooking." He must cer- 
tainly have meant /;?conveniences ; for 
there was no kitchen, and only two 
large broken stoves, and three or four 
portable soup-kettles, on wheels, with 
small furnaces and pipes attached. 
The negroes cooked by huge fires of 
Cottonwood logs, sufficient to roast an 
ox. We systematized the work, as- 
signing two women to make and dis- 
pense nourishing soup. Two others 
took charge of the gruel, a third de- 
tachment was to minister to those 
afflicted with scurvy, who were to be 
treated to onions, sauer-kraut, and other 
specifics for this disease, a fourth was 
to make " egg-nog " and lemonade for 
those who might have it, while I was 
to make tea and toast and butter 
crackers. Having seen the boilers 
filled with water and the fires kindled 
underneath, patched up the broken 



stoves so that they could be used, 
and sent an order to our boat for the 
materials needed in cooking, we went 
into the hospitals to investigate the 
men. 

They were hushed to the stillness of 
death. They had been sick a long 
while, and had so lost mental stamina 
that they did not attempt to brush 
away the flies that swarmed over them. 
They needed to be roused by a gen- 
uine sensation, to be strengthened by 
the tonic of a great hope. So, taking 
a stand in the centre of the tents, I 
brought out the teapot, spirit lamp, and 
bottle of alcohol, which were a part of 
my personal outfit, and proceeded to 
make tea right before their eyes, all the 
while talking in a loud, cheerful tone 
of the change that awaited them : 
*' Boys, do you know you are going up 
the river to St. Louis on a hospital 
steamer in a few days ? Why, next 
week at this time you will be almost 
home ! " That roused them. The 
words " almost home " was the open 
sesame that waked them up. I con- 
tinued : " We women are going to stay 
with you until you leave. I am going 
to make tea for you in this teapot, — 
d'ye see it? — with milk and white 
sugar in' it. And we have toast for 
you, and soup and gruel, and every 
sort of good thing." 

After the first shock of surprise, the 
poor fellows gathered their wits and 
precipitated questions upon me in a 
slow, sick, drawling, semi-articulate 
fashion, a dozen at a time : " Where'd 
you come from ? " " Who told you 
so ? " " What you down here for ? " 
I answered them as they were asked, 
all at once, and proceeded with my 
preparations, which were watched by 
fifty pairs of eyes. When at last I set 



Cooking for a Field Hospital in War Time 



i6i 



the tin cup of tea on a camp-stool, 
moistened and buttered the crackers, 
which the negro women had toasted at 
their log fires, and added these to the 
tea, the curiosity of the onlookers 
became intense. They raised them- 
selves on their elbows and craned 
their necks to see who was to be fav- 
ored with this " special diet." Crowd- 
ing his knapsack and pillow behind 
him, I propped up the man in his bed 
who was nearest me and placed the 
food before him. As he tasted, a 
sickly smile flickered over his ghastly 
face, which was succeeded by a fit of 
hysterical weeping. " It tastes just 
like my wife made it ! " was his tearful 
commendation. 

"Tea! tea! tea! with white sugar 
and milk in it ! " was the cry that now 
came up from nearly every bed. 
" Don't let that ere teapot o' yourn git 
played out before you git 'round 
here!" entreated a Missourian, at the 
farther end of the hospital. I ex- 
plained to him that there was no 
"play-out" to the teapot, that I had 
alcohol and tea, with sugar and milk, 
sufficient for weeks, and that all were 
to be served as fast as possible. Soon 
the negro women brought in great 
pails of soup and gruel, which my 
associates dealt out economically in 
tin cups, out of regard for the weak 
stomachs and uncertain appetites to 
which they were catering. Then came 
potatoes roasted in the hot ashes, raw 
onions and sauer-kraut for those 
afflicted with scurvy, which were de- 
voured almost ravenously. How the 
men brightened under our ministra- 
tions ! How they tried to express 
their thanks, and wept when they 
meant to laugh ! It paid us for our 
weary work that hot afternoon, to wit- 



ness the improvement wrought in the 
patient fellows by our meagre service. 

A little stir of gladness and expec- 
tancy greeted us when we entered the 
hospital next morning, some, too weak 
to speak, smiling their welcome. Four 
of the beds were empty, their occu- 
pants having passed away during the 
night. And there were others who 
had not waked, and whose sleep knew 
no waking. We surprised ourselves 
by the ease and rapidity with which 
we prepared breakfast, and were 
greatly aided by the negro women, 
who caught, the contagion of our in- 
terest and became alert and deft- 
handed. We added to our bill of fare 
delicate preparations of farina and 
corn-starch, serving them with sugar 
and milk, while for a few of the more 
vigorous we prepared egg-nog and 
picked-up codfish. We found by night 
that we were running a " special diet " 
kitchen famously, considering our 
poverty of utensils and our abundance 
of inconveniences. We gave our 
patients three meals that day and the 
two days following, and on the after- 
noon of the fourth day were gladdened 
by the sight of the " City of Memphis," 
which slowly steamed to the landing. 

The men were in much better condi- 
tion for transference to the steamer 
than when we took them in charge 
four days previous, and as rapidly as 
possible the exchange was made. 
There they were given a warm bath, 
their hair-cut, and fresh, clean gar- 
ments took the place of the filthy ones 
in which they were clad. A smile 
stole to their faces as they were lifted 
into sweet, clean beds, and from scores 
of palid lips came the outspoken satis- 
faction : " Oh, this is good ! This is 
Uke home ! " 



Suggestions for Home Nursing 

By M. C. Limerick and L. R. Balderston 
Article No. 2 



THE BED.— Wooden bed- 
steads should not be used 
for the sick, when any- 
thing else can be obtained. The 
best beds are made entirely of metal, 
iron or brass, with a woven wire 
spring. These have two advantages, 
cleanliness and lightness. A bed 
should be no heavier than is neces- 
sary for strength. Bedsteads should 
be on casters, so as to be easily 
moved. The proper dimensions for 
a bed in the sick-room are six and 
a half feet long, three feet wide, and 
two or, at most, two and a half feet 
high. If it is too wide, the nurse 
will be unable to reach the patient 
without getting on the bed herself, 
which is always objectionable. If too 
high, it increases the difficulty of 
raising the patient, and makes the 
effort harder for convalescents to get 
in and out. 

The Mattress. — Over the wire 
springs w'ill be placed a mattress. 
Should there be trouble with the mat- 
tress sliding over the spring, it may 
be fastened by sewing pieces of tape 
at the corners and tying to the bed. 
The mattress should be protected for 
cleanliness, comfort, and • economy. 
A rubber sheet or an oilcloth may be 
used for the purpose. In the absence 
of these a blanket may be used. 
There should be two ; for, if used, 
they must be kept clean and be 
frequently aired. Newspapers can 
always be obtained ; and they are the 



more sanitary, as their abundance per- 
mits frequent changes. They absorb 
moisture, and can be burned after 
using. 

Sheets. — Cotton is better material 
for sheets than linen, except, per- 
haps, in very hot weather. Linen, 
being a good conductor of heat and 
a rapid absorber of moisture, has the 
tendency to chill the surface of the 
body. Cotton does not conduct heat 
so freely, and, consequently, is safer 
for use of the sick. Sheeting comes 
in widths adapted to beds of different 
sizes. Whatever the width, the length 
of the sheet should exceed it by three 
quarters of a yard. There should not 
be a seam in the middle. 

Making the Bed. — In making the 
bed, spread the lower sheet smoothly 
and tightly over the mattress, tuck- 
ing it in securely on all sides. If the 
bed is being prepared for a long oc- 
cupancy, the sheet may be made more 
firm by fastening with safety pins to 
the mattress. 

Next comes the rubber sheet, oil- 
cloth, or newspapers, covered by a 
second folded sheet or a narrower 
" draw-sheet." The latter, as its name 
implies, may be easily drawn from 
under the patient and changed ; and, 
again, it often helps in lifting or draw- 
ing the patient. The draw-sheet is a 
single sheet folded in half crosswise, 
allowing the seams to come under the 
patient's head. 

The upper clothing should be enough 



Suggestions for Home Nursing 



163 



for warmth, but no more. There will 
be, first, the upper sheet, tucked in well 
at the foot, that it may not be pulled 
out of place, but left long enough to 
turn down for some little distance 
over the blankets. Blankets of good 
quality are the best covering, being 
warm and not weighty. Several thin 
coverings will be warmer than a single 
one of equal weight, because of the 
non-conducting air enclosed between 
them. Eider-down quilts are light 
and soft, but cannot be well cleaned 
or disinfected. A sheet is better 
than a counterpane. If sheets and 
blankets are too long, bring the sur- 
plus down at the foot of the bed. 
Do not tuck them in so tight that they 
draw; and, again, do not let them 
hang over the foot of the bed, as they 
are a heavy weight on the feet. 

To CHANGE Bedding. — Before be- 
ginning to change bed or body linen, 
the nurse should see that everything 
needed is at hand and ready. Let 
the clothing be thoroughly aired and 
warmed. Move the patient to one 
side of the bed, loosen the upper bed 
clothing and the under sheet. Roll 
or fold the soiled sheets backward and 
forward (fan fashion) lengthwise from 
the edge of the bed farthest from the 
patient, till it reaches him. The clean 
sheet, previously rolled or folded in 
the same way, is then spread over the 
space from which the first was taken, 
until the two rolls or folds lie side by 
side. The patient may be lifted or 
turned over on the clean sheet, the 
soiled one being removed, and the 
rest of the sheet spread and tucked in. 
If it is not advisable to rnove the 
patient, even from one side of the bed 
to the other, the mattress may be 
pressed down, while the clean and 



soiled sheets are together gradually 
worked under his body. The head 
and feet can be slightly raised to allow 
folds to pass. A draw-sheet would be 
changed as an under sheet. 

To change the upper sheet, free the 
clothes at the foot of the bed. Then 
the spread is removed, and the clean 
sheet spread outside of all the clothes, 
with a blanket over it, and tucked in 
securely before removing the soiled 
set. Finally slip these from under the 
clean sheet, and take the blanket to 
the air. See that the blankets are 
made smooth and straight. If they 
are not wide enough to tuck in well at 
the sides, the upper blanket may be 
laid on across the others. Otherwise 
they will all be dragged off on one 
side when the patient turns. If only 
one clean sheet can be used, let it be 
the one on which the patient Hes. 
Sheets should be changed frequently, 
at least once a day, if only to be aired 
and used again. 

The nurse must guard against ex- 
posure or chill to the patient, and a 
blanket should be used over the 
patient even in summer. 

In case of a fractured limb, one 
person must support the limb above 
and below the fracture, taking care 
to raise it gently. 

Pillows. — Be especially generous 
with pillow-cases. Have clean ones 
often. When arranging the pillows, 
the head must be lifted and supported 
by the nurse's arm, her hand support- 
ing the back while with the other hand 
the pillow is turned. The lower pil- 
low is brought down under the 
shoulders to support the back. The 
patient should be permitted to suit 
himself in arranging the pillows, as 
every one has a particular way of his 



164 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



own. A pillow should never be 
shaken on the bed. The upper one 
should be removed and shaken, then 
the second one removed and replaced 
by a fresh one. Then lay the patient 
back gently. Do not let his head 
drop with a jerk. 

Propping in Bed. — To prop up a 
patient with pillows, first see that one 
is pushed well down under and against 
the small of the back. Then put each 
additional pillow behind the last. 
Bed-rests may be purchased; but, for 
a temporary use, a straight-backed 
chair turned upside down is a very 
good substitute. 

Changing Body Clothing. — The 
night-gown and under-shirt should be 
loosened at the neck and wrists (if 
fastened), and slipped up under the 
patient, until near the shoulders. The 
arm now may be easily removed from 
the soiled garments, and the fresh 
garments slipped over the head. The 
clean garment should be ready to be 
slipped on the bare arm as soon as 
the soiled one is removed. Put the 
arm into the sleeve by drawing it up 
from the bottom of the night-gown, and 
then into the sleeve. Slip the clean 
gown over the head the same way as 
the soiled one, always remembering 
to lay the head down gently. Then 
go to the other side of the bed and 
remove the soiled clothing and slip on 
the clean. Draw the clothes down 
smooth and straight. If the garments 
are opened down the front, they will 
be easier to change. In cases where 
the patient is very weak, slit the gar- 
ments down the back, draw the arms 
into the sleeves, and leave the back 
without clothing. When one side is 
injured or paralyzed, the clothes should 
be taken off the sound side firsts and 



put on the injured side first. This 
will save the patient unnecessary pain. 

Convalescent's Wrap. — The Night- 
ingale wrap will be found very useful, 
when the patient is able to sit up in 
bed. It is a garment simply made 
and easily adjusted. It requires two 
yards of flannel of ordinary width. 
Cut a straight slit, six inches deep, in 
the middle of one side : turn back the 
points thus made for the corners. The 
points at the unslit side are turned 
back for cuffs. They may be tied at 
the edges with ribbon or fastened with 
a button and buttonhole. It may be 
fastened in the same way down the 
front. The edges of the flannel may 
be bound with ribbon or braid. It 
requires no effort on the part of the 
patient to put on this wrap, so it is to 
be preferred to the usual dressing- 
sack. 

Pads. — Pads to relieve pressure are 
made of cotton batting, horse-hair, 
straw, or even a sheet folded into a 
circular pad (having a hole in the cen- 
tre), and wound with a bandage to 
keep its place. 

Bed Sores. — Bed sores appear most 
frequently upon' the lower part of the 
back, the hips, shoulders, elbows, or 
heels, but may develop wherever the 
conditions are favorable. They are 
frequently occasioned by bad nursing. 
A good nurse can usually avoid their 
formation. They are more easily pre- 
vented than cured. Special attention 
must be given to emaciated patients, 
and in cases of paralysis, fevers, and 
surgical cases, where motion is re- 
stricted. Signs of bed sores are first 
redness, then a tingling sensation in 
parts affected. To avoid them, always 
have the bed clothing dry and smooth, 
the patient's skin clean. Also relieve. 



Some Duties of a Waitress 



165 



as far as possible, any local pressure. 
Bathe the back or parts affected twice 
a day with soap and water. Wipe dry 
and rub with alcohol or brandy. 
Dust the parts with a fine powder to 
absorb moisture. Lycopodium powder 
is good, but has the disadvantage of 
staining the clothing. After the skin 
is broken, the sore should be treated 
by the physician. The use of spirits 
is usually discontinued, as it causes 
pain. Bed sores, if not treated, often 
penetrate the deeper tissues even to 
the bone. 

Do not allow the patient to lie too 
long in one place. If paralyzed, roll 
him over and place pillows at his 
back. Always turn the mattress as 



soon as the patient is able to be out 
of bed. If it be necessary to lift a 
helpless patient, it is better to have 
some one assist, as the strain is too 
great for one alone. Clasp hands as 
smoothly as possible and place hands 
and arms under the shoulders and hips, 
then move from one side to the other. 
A second method is to move draw- 
sheet, pulling it by the corners. To 
move a patient from one bed to 
another, pin a stout rubber cloth to 
the bed from which you wish to move 
your patient, letting it lap over on to 
the other, so as to cover the interven- 
ing crack and give a level surface, 
across which he may be drawn by 
means of the sheet on which he lies. 



Some Duties of a Waitress 

By Catherine J. Coolidge 
Part VI 



Cleaning Silver 

THE methods of cleaning 
silver satisfactorily are as 
numerous as roses in June. 

In the first place, it might be said 
that silver should be cleaned as sel- 
dom as possible, the frequency depend- 
ing largely on the daily care. 

The gradual wear of continual use, 
and mere washing and wiping, are con- 
siderable ; and, when the rubbing with 
cleaning powders is added to that, we 
wonder there is any "heirloom " silver 
left. 

If the silver is carefully washed and 
wiped according to the above direc- 
tions, and then occasionally polished 
with a chamois, the "cleanings" need 



not be frequent. If silver tarnishes 
quickly, the housewife should look to 
her traps and furnace, because this 
rapid discoloration is a pretty good 
indication of the presence of noxious 
gases. 

One of the best ways of cleaning 
large pieces of silver that are cov- 
ered with a great amount of ornamen- 
tation, is to place them in a kettle of 
warm soda water and bring them gradu- 
ally to the boiUng-point. Line the kettle 
with pieces of cloth, and lay pieces of 
cloth between the silver. Rinse in 
clear hot water, and wipe with soft 
towels. Polish with chamois. This 
method has been highly recommended 
by a friend. 

It might be well just here to caution 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the waitress against using too heavy 
pressure when rubbing the silver ; for 
— especially if it is old — it can be 
easily bent and misshapen. 

A very satisfactory method of clean- 
ing silver is as follows : Rub the article 
all over with alcohol, and polish with 
dry electro-silicon or silver white, ap- 
plied with a piece of soft old damask, 
or with the silver brush, when the 
pieces are ornamented. Polish with 
clean old damask, and, finally, with 
chamois. Pieces of silver that are 
seldom used should be wrapped in 
cottoji (Canton flannel) cases, never in 
flannel or other woollens, because they 
cause it to tarnish. The same may be 
applied to steel knife blades. Woollens 
cause them to rust, probably by ab- 
sorbing moisture. 

A very simple but serviceable knife- 
case is shown in the diagram. 



1 ^ 


















b 


1 

/ 


















1 
1 



Fold the edge, <7, b^ over the knives, 
roll the case together, and tie with the 
braid. This is a compact method of 
packing and keeping extra knives. 

Care of Salt Cups, Sugar 
Bowls, etc. 

Salt cups, sugar bowls, etc., should 
be washed at least once a week. The 
most difficult pieces to clean are the 



oil and vinegar cruets. Patience and 
perseverance are essential to success in 
making these clean and bright. 



To clean an Oil Cruet 

]\Iake a solution of hot w^ater and 
washing soda in the proportions of one 
cup of water and a piece of soda the 
size of an English walnut. Let the 
solution cool somew^hat, and rinse 
the cruet with one-half of it, shaking 
it vigorously, so that the water wdll 
touch every part of the glass. Empty 
the greasy water, add the remainder of 
the solution and one tablespoonful of 
rice. Shake vigorously for several 
minutes, then pour off the water with- 
out removing the rice. 

Rinse with two changes of w^arm 
suds, pouring out the rice with the 
second one. Finally, rinse with clear 
water. 

All the rinsing should be done by 
pouring the water into the cruet, where 
it is to be well shaken. Polish the 
cruet inside and out wath a soft towel. 

The only virtue of the rice is a 
mechanical one. It produces friction 
on the glass in spots which could not 
be otherwise reached. 

In cleaning' a vinegar cruet, follow 
the same plan as for the oil cruet, 
omitting, however, the soda solution. 
Vinegar frequently leaves a dark 
brow^n ring, often a series of rings on 
the cruet ; and these can be removed 
only by energetic shaking of the suds 
and rice. It is a good plan to invert 
the cruet while shakins: it. 



Selected Verse 



The First Christmas 

Sing soft thy praise, thou shepherd seers, 
The Christ-child sleeps upon the mother 
breast 1 
Bend low thy heads, O sages old ! 
The King of whom the prophets told 

Brings " peace on earth, good will to men," 
and rest ; 
And faith in life's eternal years. 

O Child of holy dreaming ways I 

O Child of hope, and faith's supernal cheer I 
Thy birth has hushed the voice of pain ; 
The day breaks glad across the plain ! 

Our Christ is born, the King of kings is 
here, 
This morn of morns, this day of days ! 

William Moore. 



Christmas in England 

Heap on more wood ! The wind is chill ; 
But, let it whistle as it will. 
We'll keep our Christmas merry still. 
Each age has deemed the new-born year 
The fittest time for festal cheer. 



And well our Christian sires of old 

Loved when the year its course had rolled, 

And brought blithe Christmas back again. 

With all his hospitable train. 

Domestic and religious rite 

Gave honor to the holy night. 

On Christmas eve the bells were rung ; 

On Christmas eve the mass was sung; 

That only night, in all the year. 

Saw the stoled priest the chalice rear. 

The damsel donned her kirtle sheen ; 

The hall was dressed with holly green ; 

Forth to the wood did merry men go, 

To gather in the mistletoe. 

Then opened wide the baron's hall 

To vassal, tenant, serf, and all. 

All hailed, with uncontrolled. delight 
And general voice, the happy night 
That to the cottage, as the crown. 
Brought tidings of salvation down. 



The fire, with well-dried logs supplied. 

Went roaring up the chimney wide ; 

The huge hall-table's oaken face, 

Scrubbed till it shone the day to grace, 

Bore there upon its massive board 

No mark to part the squire and lord. 

Then was brought in the lusty brawn. 

By old blue-coated serving-man ; 

Then the grim boar's head frowned on high, 

Crested with bays and rosemary. 

The wassail round in good brown bowls. 
Garnished with ribbons, blithely trowls. 
There the huge surloin reeked. Hard by 
Plum porridge sfood, and Christmas pie ; 
Nor failed old Scotland to produce 
At such high-tide her savory goose. 
Then came the merry masquers in, 
And carols roared with blithesome din. 
If unmelodious was the song, 
It was a hearty note and strong. 

England was merry England when 

Old Christmas brought his sports again. 

'Twas Christmas broached the mightiest ale ; 

'Twas Christmas told the merriest tale ; 

A Christmas gambol oft could cheer 

The poor man's heart through half the year. 

Still linger in our northern clime 

Some remnants of the good old time ; 

And still, wdthin our valleys here. 

We hold the kindred title dear. 

Even when perchance its far-fetched claim 

To southern ear sounds empty name. 

Scott. 



Evening 

I know the night is near at hand. 
The mists lie low on hill and bay, 

The autumn sheaves are dewless, dry ; 
But I have had the day. 

Yes, I have had, dear Lord, the day : 
When at thy call I have the night, 

Brief be the twilight as I pass 

P'rom light to dark, from dark to light. 
Dr. S. Weir Mitchell, 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL CORPORATION 

Established 1879. Incorporated 1882. 

School : 372 BOYLSTON STREET. 

IPoarb of ^HuaQfrs, J9O0f. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL, President. 

Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vice-President. 

Cvcrutibe Committee. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL. 

Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER. 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL. 

Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY. 

Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS. 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING. 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN. 
Miss MINNA TRAIN. 

Mrs. EVERETT MORSS. 
Mrs. G. E. NILES, Treasurer. \ 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MERRITT FARMER. 

Assistants, \ ^^"^^ ^''^^^^ ^^^ HOWARD. 

\ Miss MARIETTA McPHERSON. 

THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School Corporation. 

Publication Office : 
37a BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

JANET McKENZIE HILL Editor. 

BENJ. M. HILL General Manager. 

R. B. HILL Business Manager. 

Subscription, 50c. per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Bosto?i Cooking-School Magazine is sent until 
ordered discontinued, and arrearages are paid. 

Tlie date stamped on the wrapper is the date on which 
your subscription expires : it is, also, an acknowledgment 
that a subscription or a renewal of the same has been 
received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank enclosed 
for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription or change 
address, please give the ohi address as well as the neiv. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know the 
name as it was formerly given, together with the Post- 
office, County, State, Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Postage. — To all parts of the United States. Canada, 
and Mexico the postage is prepaid by the publishers, ex- 
cept in Boston. In making renewals, subscribers in the 
postal district of Boston are requested to add 12 cents to 
the subscription price to cover delivery charges. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



T 



HIS month the Boston Cook- 
i?ig-School Magazine is sent to 
its subscribers in a new and 
more fashionable dress. To keep in 
the van of progress and establish a 
reputation for good taste as well as for 
utility, it seems to us, is an aim none 
too high for a household publication. 
And "the first law of good taste is fit- 
ness." The beautiful and the useful 
must be combined. 

In feeding, it is, no doubt, saving 
economy to present, at the same time, 
attractive and palatable dishes. Hence 
it comes to pass that to cater well to 
the needs of a family ever calls for 
expenditure of time and thought. In 
the matter of economic living, one who 
uses wisely the Boston Cooking- School 
Magazijie ought to receive from each 
number by far more of helpful sugges- 
tion than the price of a yearly subscrip- 
tion. In return for what we receive, 
we intend to give full value ; that is, 
" good measure, pressed down, and 
shaken together, and running over." 

But the improved appearance of this 
our Christmas number is the result of 
but one of the plans under present con- 
sideration to improve the quality and 
character of the magazine and enlarge 
its usefulness. ' With the beginning of 
the new volume, in June, 1901, it is at 
last definitely proposed to make the 
publication practically a monthly. 
That is, we propose to publish at least 
ten numbers in a volume, making the 
issue of June and July and that of 
August and September, in the vacation 
season, double numbers. We believe 
this plan on trial will fulfil the desires 
of our readers and entirely satisfy the 
interests of our advertising patrons, 
both from an economic and a business 
point of view. However, the plan is 



Editorials 



169 



merely suggested here, and is not of 
immediate concern. Before execution 
the matter will be submitted in detail 
to our readers. 

The Boston Cooking- School Magazine 
has no intention or desire to multiply 
departments or to imitate the style and 
ways of other periodicals. It will con- 
tinue to hold fast to the subject of 
domestic science, in its various phases, 
and endeavor to sustain its name as a 
practical, helpful, and instructive agent 
in the chief concerns of the house- 
hold. The contents of each number 
are designed not to be glanced at and 
tossed aside, but to be referred to, 
made use of, and then filed away for 
repeated reference. The entire matter 
of each volume is deemed worthy of 
preservation in permanent book form. 

IN the October Ladies' Home Jour- 
nal^ in a keen article relating to the 
evil resulting from the cramming 
of our children by modern educational 
methods, Edward Bok writes : " Home 
study must be stopped. There are 
no two sides to that question. Physi- 
cians almost without number urge the 
elimination of this evil and injury 
from the lives of our children. Just 
as our business men should cease 
working and thinking about their busi- 
ness after they reach home, so our 
children should be permitted to drop 
all studies and thought of studies when 
they come home. Studies should end, 
with the school hours, and the rest of 
the day be for play, fresh air, and 
exercise. It makes no difference what 
the cessation of home study means in 
the readjustment of the school system. 
That is for our educators to find out 
and adjust. But on this one point 
there can be no doubt, no question ; 



and there should be no delay. There 
must be absolutely no home study. 
Books must be left at school, and the 
studies with them." 

That is, we presume, home study on 
the part of children, up to a certain 
age at least, should be voluntary rather 
than required ; and we agree. Teach- 
ers are apt to forget that schools are 
maintained, not for their own special 
benefit, but for the best interests of the 
children. Teachers and school officers, 
in fact, are the employees of the 
people, and in all matters are to be 
held responsible and subject to the 
latter's will. By what right, then, 
does the teacher dictate the manner in 
which the child shall spend his time 
outside the legal hours of school ? 

A NOTHER matter closely con- 

aA nected and no less important 
-^ -*' than that of home study is the 
involuntary detention of pupils after 
school hours. The custom is widely 
prevalent ; and yet it is pernicious, 
and cannot be justified either on the 
ground of expediency or from any 
other consideration. 

It is positively cruel to detain 
against the will, in the already viti- 
ated air of a school-room, a nervous, 
sensitive boy or girl on account of 
some trifling misdemeanor or faulty 
lesson. In too many cases it is simply 
prolonging the torture of a writhing 
victim of mismanagement. 

" Corporal punishment for children 
is growing obsolete and unnecessary. 

" With patient and sympathetic treat- 
ment the most unruly child can be 
handled and made to do the reasonable 
will of an older person. If that will 
is unreasonable, it is another matter. 
Children rebel against injustice much 



lyo 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



sooner than grown people ; and their 
sense of what constitutes injustice is 
often keener than that of their elders." 
We do not forget that school dis- 
cipline must be secured ; but a method 
of discipline is an open question. In 
our schools too little regard is paid to 
the physiological and hygienic welfare 
of the children. People are coming to 
look upon a healthy body as a more 
important factor in the matter of life 
than any amount of the stereotyped 
precepts and so-called discipline of the 
schools. What our children most need 
is to be interested, stimluated, and 
wisely guided in the use of the proper 
means to educate themselves. And 
right here the teacher's efforts should 
be concentrated. The matter of deten- 
tion, as that of home study, must " go 
up to the parent " for final adjustment. 

IN the constitution of Ruskin's mind 
there was certainly something es- 
sentially akin to the feminine. He 
had notions about introducing aesthetic 
considerations into the small matters 
of life which were just such as might 
have come to a gifted, beauty-loving, 
sensible woman, but which often seem 
fantastic enough to the majority of his 
male readers. His love of cleanliness 
and order makes an intimate appeal to 
the soul of the good housewife. 

Scientifically viewed, Ruskin's theo- 
ries about economics may have been 
open to discussion ; but in the minute 
management of the human being's do- 
mesticities he had such economic con- 
ceptions as commend themselves nat- 
urally to the highest and best types of 
w^omen the world over. He hated the 
vulgarity of waste and of those sump- 
tuous drawing-room effects that some- 
times conceal a frowzy pantry. He 



wanted things to be good all through, 
with a sincerity which one might com- 
pare to that of the builder of a Greek 
temple, but which it is equally exact 
to compare to that bred of the culti- 
vated instincts of a perfectly refined 
woman. The fact that visitors were 
not received in the kitchen was no rea- 
son to Ruskin why the kitchen should 
not be burnished and beautiful. He 
uttered many inspiring and lovely 
words about the kitchen's obligation 
in this respect. Yet, in reality, he was 
only composing, with rich and sugges- 
tive harmonies, on a plain theme which 
generations of experience, and of hand- 
ed-down wisdom from mother to daugh- 
ter, have rendered as familiar to the 
saving remnant of the female sex as a 
cradle melody. 

Practicality is about the last quality 
with which Ruskin has been credited. 
Still, in point of fact, the most signifi- 
cant and valuable elements in his writ- 
ings are founded on the kind of knowl- 
edge that comes from practical contact 
with the minutiae of daily living, and 
from nothing else. 

Ruskin never preached on any sub- 
ject more effectively than on this ; and 
perhaps, when many of his other preach- 
ments shall have been forgotten, it will 
be more clearly seen how important he 
was whenever he took it up. His was 
the most authoritative and the most 
enchanting voice ever lifted to express 
the philosophy of the enlightened 
woman's opinion and practice with re- 
gard to the fundamental economics of 
daily life. Many women had known 
about these topics all along ; but they 
had never seen them crystallized, in- 
tellectualized, built as an integral ele- 
ment into a high system of aesthetics. 
The Century Magazine. 




Cfjrisitmas #i\Jins 

^p J^ate (Gannett m^tWa 




NOTE. — In place of our "After breakfast Chat," we present on this page the appropriate 
and timely article of Mrs. Wells. We are certain our readers will accept the happy ex- 
change with feelings of pleasure. — J. M. H., Ed. 



HOWEVER sacred is the 
Christmas significance, there 
is much amusing diplomacy 
about its presents. Rummage sales ! 
Why, one's house is converted into a 
rummage give-away weeks before De- 
cember 25. In such a collection are 
the useless gifts, which, having been 
welcomed, were soon stowed away 
without any label, to indicate who sent 
them ; and then — such memory strug- 
gles arise anent the name of the giver, 
until after balancing probabilities as to 
who was the real donor — the un- 
used present of last year is sent to 
somebody who could not possibly 
have given it. 

But, alas ! at a " swapping lunch " 
I swapped a pearl-embroidered fichu 
with some one I scarcely knew, who 
proved to be the intimate friend of 
the lady who had sent me the lace, 
and who at once recognized her 
unappreciated Christmas gift. 

The private house Christmas rum- 
mage also includes the presents 
bought for imaginary somebodies, 
just after the last Christmas, when 
goods were marked down, but which 
under the circumstances of the present 
year fit no one's case. Did I not go 
to Hovey's, Dec. 26, 1899, 8.30 a.m. 
to buy bronzes that were unsold at 
ten minutes of six on December 24, 
only to find that either at midnight or 



early dawn they had been safely 
packed away from woman's greed 
for cheapened values, to await resur- 
rection at good prices this Decem- 
ber ! 

Then there are the useful gifts 
that we send to those who would 
more enjoy the unneedful things of 
life, which they cannot afford to buy, — 
an Attleboro brooch more than warm 
flannels, flufTy neckwear more than a 
pair of arctics. 

Great also is the rummage of things 
bought at fairs without any other jus- 
tification of their being than the hope 
that they may come in use some time. 
And greater still is the motley collec- 
tion of needlework bric-k-brac, which 
we have made ourselves (that touching 
phrase), for our friends, and which 
elicit the invariable reply. How good 
you were to take so many stitches just 
for me ! 

Books surely cannot be involved in 
a Christmas rummage clearance ; yet 
malicious is the giver who inscribes 
her name in a book, thus laying an 
embargo upon its future utility as a 
travelling gift. 

Presents of money, whether as large 
checks or small coin, can never carry 
any sense of Christmas discrepancy 
with them, and cannot be reckoned 
into the rummage account, though 
often they represent the unearned 



172 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



increment accruing from the lavish- 
ness of affection. 

After all, there are hundreds of thou- 
sands of Christmas gifts fitly chosen, 
because of the accumulated experience 
of nearly twenty centuries in the art of 
such giving ; and there is no delusion 
in the reality of a large part of our 
gratitude. Yet, in spite of such ear- 
nestness, our childhood never failed to 
have its annual day of torture, when, 
with the aid of a dictionary, we 
returned our written thanks for what 
we wished had been just a little dif- 
ferent. 

If it takes grace to give, it takes 
more to receive. A stereotyped 
"Thank you" is less pleasing to hear 
than an impulsive " That's bully." 
Each gift, no matter how conventional, 
carries with it something of the giver's 
self; but that self needs to be again 
renewed by gratitude, not for the 
measure of the gift, but for the thought 
that prompted it. The less philan- 
thropic or duteous and the more per- 
sonal is that thought, the more is 
Christmas the dearest day of " all the 
glad New Year." 

Yet why need we follow the same 
routine of giving ? Why not give to 
some persons one year and to others 
another season ? As it now is, our 
list of last December has not only to 
be filled out, but a few new names 
added, until the accretions of each 
year, and the reluctance to omit past 
friends, make a Christmas list the 
forerunner of nervous prostration. 

The trouble with the modern Christ- 
mas lies in our lack of simplicity con- 
cerning it. Too many trees are cut 
down, too many and too expensive 
gifts are given. Reciprocity, not free 



trade, is its motto. Simplicity in giv- 
ing and in having a good time is an 
art that we have lost by making a busi- 
ness of Christmas, — so many presents 
to give, so many notes of thanks to 
write. Watch a child take its presents 
from a tree, and note them all down 
on paper lest he forget who gave this 
or that ! Fifty years ago children 
never had so much that they forgot 
what they had. 

Then we have made Christmas so 
philanthropic that missionary societies 
do our private jobs in flowers and 
cards. Sunday-schools vie with each 
other in increasing their attendance 
rolls by the three routine gifts of a 
church tree : a bag of candy, a pair of 
mittens, and a toy for the younger 
children or a book for the older ones, 
all gifts being capable of exchange on 
the spot. Spiritual values are lost 
sight of in this material setting forth 
of Christmas. 

But who would ever forego the pleas- 
ure of making up a Christmas box of 
goodies for the boy or girl away from 
home ? Into its plum pudding have 
been stirred a mother's longings, until 
the opening of such boxes is almost 
sacramental. What is warmer than 
the mother's glow of proud love at 
receiving something her child has 
made for her in happy open secrecy, 
or has bought for her out of his wee 
spending money } W^ho would ever 
lose the pleasure of belief in the 
Christ-child, who to little children 
makes known the coming of his king- 
dom by their faith in Santa Claus ? 
What hour is more buoyant than the 
minutes of waiting till all are together 
before any one can see what he has 
got? 



Chafing-dish and Seasonable Recipes 

IX all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of 
such material. 



Oysters with Cream 

Scald a cup of cream (over hot 
water) ; add two dozen plump oysters 
washed and freed from bits of shell. 
When heated, stir in the yolks of two 
eggs beaten and mixed with half a cup 
of cream. When slightly thickened, add 
a scant half teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of pepper. Serve on buttered 
toast. 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Spread bread cut for sandwiches 
with chopped ham, seasoned with a 
little made mustard, and press to- 
gether in pairs. Beat an ^^^^ add 
half a cup of rich milk, and in the mixt- 
ure soak the sandwiches a few mo- 
ments. Heat a tablespoonful or more 
of butter in the blazer, and in this 
brown the sandwiches first on one 
side and then on the other. Drain on 
soft paper, and serve at once. 

Lobster, Creole Style 

Chop fine a sweet green pepper, a 
tomato peeled and seeded, and a slice 
of onion. Cook together in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter until softened, then 
add a cup and a half of chicken broth, 
and let simmer five minutes. Then add 
the meat from three tw^o-pound lobsters 
cut in small pieces, with salt if needed. 

Sweetbreads a la Newburg 

Heat one cup of cream in the blazer 
over hot water. Add one cup and a 



half of sweetbreads parboiled, cooled, 
and cut in cubes. Beat the yolks of 
three eggs, add a scant half-tea- 
spoonful of salt and a few grains of 
cayenne, dilute with three-fourths a 
cup of sherry wine, and stir into the 
cream. Stir until thickened slightly, 
then serve at once. Half a cup of 
cooked mushrooms is an improvement 
to the dish. Calves' brains may be 
substituted for a part or all of the 
sweetbread. 

Creamed Chicken, Potatoes and 
Peppers 

Saute half a green pepper in three 
tablespoonfuls of butter five or six 
minutes. Add three tablespoonfuls of 
flour and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
When frothy, add gradually a cup of 
chicken stock and half a cup of cream, 
stir until smooth and at the boiling 
point, then set over hot water and 
heat in the sauce one cup of chicken 
cut in cubes and half a cup of cold 
cooked potatoes also cut in cubes. 
Turnip, carrot, peas, or asparagus 
tips may be substituted for the potato. 

Curry of Macaroni 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
cook in it two slices of onion until the 
onion becomes of a pale straw-color, 
then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
one tablespoonful of curry powder, one- 
fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a dash 
of pepper. When blended with the 



74 



rhe Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Bouillon Cup 

butter, add gradually one cup of milk, 
and stir until smooth and boiling. Then 
strain over one cup of macaroni, cooked 
until tender in boiling salted water, 
and then drained and rinsed in cold 
water. Reheat and serve. Two table- 
spoonfuls of tomato pulp may be added 
if desired. 

Halibut and Lobster a la Hol- 
landaise 

Have ready a pound of raw halibut 
cut in inch cubes and cooked in salted 
acidulated water until tender, then 
drained. (The cubes may be put into 
a frying basket, and in this way easily 
removed and drained when cooked.) 



When the fish is cold, add to it the 
flesh of a two-pound lobster, cut in 
cubes, a dash of salt and paprika and 
the juice of half a lemon, and set aside 
until ready to use. Put into the 
blazer, over hot water, three-fourths a 
cup of creamed butter. Stir into this 
the yolks of four eggs, one at a time, 
and then gradually one cup of hot 
water. xA.fter all the water has been 
used and the sauce is thickened some- 
what, add the fish, lobster, and lemon 
juice. Stir until the whole is hot, then 
serve at once. 

Asparagus a I'lndienne 

Make a curry sauce as above, and 
heat in it a cup of cooked asparagus 
tips (fresh cooked or canned). Serve 
with sippets of toast or with finger- 
length bits of bread saute'd in the 
blazer. 



Cheese-and-Tomato Rarebit 

Put a tablespoonful of butter in the 
blazer and let the melted butter run 
over the bottom. Then add two cups of 
cheese grated or cut into dice. Stir 




:h China Cracker Jar with handled Cheese Plate 



Chafing-dish and Seasonable Recipes 



175 



until melted, then add the yolks of two 
eggs beaten and diluted with half a 
cup of tomato puree, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of soda, salt, and pa- 
prika. Stir constantly until the mixture 
is smooth, then serve on bread toasted 
upon but one side. 

Cream-of-potato Soup 

Boil five potatoes and an onion five 
minutes ; drain, add two quarts of boil- 
ing water, and cook until tender, then 
pass them with the liquid through a 
sieve. Season with salt and pepper, 
and stir in the yolks of two eggs beaten 
wdth a cup of rich cream. Do not 
allow the soup to boil, but stir and 
cook until the egg becomes slightly 



cooked in stock or broth, instead of 
water, half a cup of cream will be 
enough. 

Sausage with Apple Sauce 

Prick the skin of the sausage many 
times, then let simmer in a frying-pan 
fifteen minutes, drain and brown in 
the oven. Make a syrup of one cup, 
each, of sugar and water, and in it 
cook pared apples, cut lattice-fashion, 
a few at a time, to preserve the shape. 
Serve the sausage on the apples. 

Cream-of-celery with Peas 

Cook the root ends, the leaves, and 
outside stalks (cut in small pieces) of 
a bunch of celery (nearly one quart in 




Sausage with Apple Sauce 



cooked. Have ready a small turnip 
and half a carrot, cut in straws and 
cooked until tender, separately, in boil- 
ing salted water. Add these to the 
soup, together with one or two table- 
spoonfuls of cooked peas or string 
beans, cut small. If the potatoes are 



all) and half an onion in boiling water 
five minutes ; drain and cook in water 
to cover until the celery is soft and the 
water is reduced ; that is about two 
hours. Then press as much of the 
celery as possible through the sieve, 
and set aside with the liquid. Cook 



176 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



one-fourth a cup of Hour in three table- pestle press it through a pure'e sieve, 
spoonfuls of butter ; add gradually one Add two eggs slightly beaten, a few 




Salpicon of Chicken in Rice Croustades 



pint of milk, then stir with one pint of 
white stock into the celery. Reheat 
to the boiling point, add one cup of 
scalded cream, one cup of peas, and 
salt and pepper to taste. 

Chestnut Timbale for Con- 
somme 
Mix together half a cup, each, of 
chestnut puree (chestnuts boiled and 
passed through a sieve) and cream, 
the beaten yolks of four eggs, and a 
few grains of salt and mace. Poach 
until firm in buttered moulds, covered 
and set in hot water, either in the oven 
or on the top of the range. 

Chicken Custard for Consomme 
(Green and Red) 
Pound one-fourth a cup of cooked 
chicken in a mortar, then with the 



grains, each, of salt and paprika, and 
three tablespoonfuls of tomato puree. 
Turn into a buttered mould or cup, and 
set in hot water to poach. Let cool, 
then unmould, and cut into fanciful 
shapes or small cubes. Add to three 
pints of hot consomme' with half a cup 
of cooked peas. 

Salpicon of Chicken in Rice 
Croustades 

Let a cup of rice boil in a quart of 
cold water five minutes, drain on a 
sieve, and rinse thoroughly with cold 
water. Return to the sauce-pan with 
half a cup of tomato pure'e, three cups 
of chicken broth, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and three tablespoonfuls of butter. 
When the mixture reaches the boiling- 
point, set over hot water, cover, and let 
cook until the rice is tender and the 



Chafing-dish and Seasonable Recipes 



177 



liquid mostly absorbed. Then pack in- 
to well-buttered dariole moulds, and set 
aside to cool. Turn from the moulds, roll 
in flour and in egg and bread crumbs, 
then with a knife or small cutter make 
an incision about a quarter an inch 
deep in each croustade, leaving a rim 
about one-fourth an inch wide. Fry 
to a golden-brown in deep fat, then 
remove the tops, scoop out the centres, 
and fill with cooked chicken cut in 
small cubes and reheated in a sauce 
made of equal parts of cream and 
chicken broth thickened with a roux. 
Cover the top of the croustades with 
the whites of two eggs beaten until 
stiff, and set into the oven to brown 
lightly. 

Black Butter (Beurre Noir) 

{Served in Yiile Tide Menu) 

Heat half a cup (four ounces) of 
butter in a frying-pan until it assumes 
a deep golden color. Add four table- 
spoonfuls of parsley leaves, picked into 
bits after washing and drying, shake 
the pan, and as soon as the parsley is 



crisp pour the sauce into the sauce- 
bowl. This sauce may be made with- 
out the parsley. When thus prepared, 
cook the butter to a deeper brown, 
skim, and pour off the top only. 

Chantilly Apple-sauce with 
Horseradish 

Cook about five medium-sized apples, 
pared and cored, with a very little water 
(steaming is preferable, as they should 
be very dry when cooked), pass through 
a fine sieve, and add to the pulp two 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and 
one-fourth a cup of fresh-grated horse- 
radish. When mixed thoroughly, fold 
in an equal bulk of w^iipped cream. 
Serve separately with young ducks or 
goslings. 

Apple Puree, Jellied 

Pare, quarter, and core six apples ; 
stew quickly (to keep them white) 
until tender, with a few spoonfuls of 
water and two cloves ; pass through a 
sieve (there should be a pint of pulp). 
Add a cup of sugar, one-third a pack- 




Apple Puree, Jellied 



78 



The Boston Cookings-School Magazine 



age of irelatine softened in one-third a 
cup of cold water and dissolved over 
hot water. Let cool, then add the 
juice of five lemons i^one cup), and 
beat, while standing in ice-water, until 
very white and foamy and quite stiff. 
Then stir in a scant cup of French fruit 
cut small and soaked in maraschino 
or a little hot syrup. Mould, and. 
when cold, serve with thin rounds of 
apple cooked tender in equal measures 
of sugar and water. Flavor the syrup 
with lemon juice, and pour, when cold 
and thick like jelly, over the apples 
and the puree. 

Filling for Cranberry Pie 
Mix one-fourth a cup of corn-starch 
with two cups of sugar. Pour over one 



of cranberries chopped fine. This 
quantity will be sufficient for two pies. 

Steamed Fruit Pudding 

{Prize Recipe) 
Stir one cup of vitos into two cups 
of scalded milk. As soon as the mixt- 
ure thickens, remove from the fire. 
Add half a cup of molasses, two well- 
beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, one teaspoonful, each, of 
soda and salt, and one cup of dates 
stoned and cut in pieces. Turn into a 
buttered mould (a three-pint brick 
mould was used for the half-tone) and 
steam three hours. Serve with 

Messina Sauce 
Stir one-fourth a cup of butter, one 




Steamed Fruit Puddingy 



cup of boiling water, and stir until 
boiling, then add half a cup of mo- 
lasses, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 
tablespoonful of butter, and one quart 



cup of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, 
and the grated rind of a lemon and 
the juice of two lemons over hot 
water, until the mixture thickens. If 



Chafing-dish and Seasonable Recipes 



79 



desired, use the whites of two eggs and 
one whole egg in the pudding, leav- 
ing two yolks for the sauce. 



Fold the first third of the paste over 
the second third, and the last over 
the others, pat and roll out. Repeat 




Orange Jelly. Small mould filled with ice and water. Charlotte Moulds for double moulding. 

Recipe, page i 80 



Bread Sticks 
Make a dough as for salad rolls, 
using less butter. When ready to shape, 
form into balls, then roll the balls (with- 
out flour) on the board with the hands, 
until sticks of uniform size and shape 
like a thick lead-pencil are formed. 
Set to rise in a pan designed for the 
purpose, leaving them full or half 
length, as desired. Bake, when light, 
in a hot oven. 

Cream Pastry (for One Pie) 

Sift together one cup and a fourth 
of flour, one-third a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and baking-powder. Then stir 
in thick cream to make a paste stiff 
enough to handle (between half and 
three-fourths a cup). Take out half 
of the paste, knead slightly, then pat, 
and roll out to fit the pie tin. Knead 
the trimmings and rest of the 
paste slightly, pat and roll out into a 
rectangular sheet, and spread with 
three tablespoonfuls of washed butter. 



the folding and rolling two or three 
times. Then chill, and roll to fit the 
plate. If the cream be sour, use a 
scant one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda 
instead of the baking-powder. 

Salad or Luncheon Rolls 

Scald two cups of milk. When cool, 
add a yeast cake softened in half a cup 
of lukewarm water and about two cups 
of flour, beat thoroughly, and set aside 
covered until it is light. Then add two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful 
of salt, half a cup of softened butter, 
the whites of two eggs beaten stiff, and 
flour to make a dough. Knead nearly 
half an hour. Let rise until double in 
bulk, then shape into balls. Let rise 
until light and puffy, then with the 
floured handle of a wooden spoon make 
a deep crease in the middle of each 
biscuit without dividing it. Brush the 
crease with melted butter, and press 
the edges close together. Place the 
biscuit close together in a buttered pan. 



i8o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cover, let rise a few moments, and bake 
twelve to fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 

Orange Jelly 
Soak half a box of gelatine in half a 
cup of cold water and dissolve in a cup 
of boiling water. Add one cup of sugar, 
strain, and, when cold, add one pint of 
orange juice and the juice of a lemon. 
Remove the orange juice wdth a spoon. 

Salpicon of Fruit Moulded in 
Orange Jelly 

Select two moulds similar in shape, 
one an inch larger than the other. 
Make a little more orange jelly than 
enough to fill the larger mould. Set 
the larger mould in a pan of ice and 
water, pour in a few spoonfuls of 
orange jelly, and, when set, arrange 
upon it candied cherries, white grapes. 



inch or more. Dip halved almonds in 
cooled jelly, and press against the 
chilled sides of the mould. When the 
jelly is firm, set the smaller mould upon 
it and exactly in the centre of the first 
mould, fill wdth ice and water, and then 
fill the outer mould with jelly. When 
firm, dip out the ice and water and 
refill with warm water, and remove at 
once the inner mould. Nearly fill the 
open space with chilled cherries and 
grapes, prepared as before and mixed 
with syrup flavored to taste. Cover 
with chilled jelly, thick, but not set, 
and let stand until firm. Serve with 
cream. 

New York Gingerbread 
Cream half a cup of butter, add 
gradually a cup of sugar, the yolks 
of two eggs, one-fourth a cup of mo- 
lasses, and, alternately, half a cup of 




Salpicon of Fruit moulded In Orange Jelly. Recipe above 



skinned and seeded, and almonds, 
blanched and halved, to form a design. 
Add a few spoonfuls of cooled jelly to 
keep the fruit in place, and, when firm, 
add enough to cover the design half an 



milk and two cups of flour sifted with 
two tablespoonfuls of yellow ginger 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda. 
Lastly add the stiff-beaten whites of two 
eggs. Bake in a loaf or in small tins. 



Menus for Light Housekeeping. ©ecetn^Jet 

[Three Adults) 

When one is contented, there is no more to be desired. — Don Quixote 



breakfast 

Ralston Breakfast Food. 

Toast with Tomato Cream Sauce. 

Poached Eggs. 

Coffee. 

THnner 

Clam Bouillon, Dinner Biscuit. 

Roast Chicken (cold, from delicatessen shop). 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Maslied Potato. Peas in White Sauce. 

Cabbage with French Dressing. 

English Walnuts in Lemon Jelly. 

Whipped Cream. Coffee. 

Supper 

Cheese and Tomato Rarebit. 

Little Cakes. Tea. 



^re^kfast 

Oranges. Boiled Potatoes. 

Salt Codfish in Cream Sauce. 

Rolls. Pickles. 

Fried Rice, Maple Syrup. Cereal Coffee. 

^ox Luncheon 

Potato Salad. Boiled Eggs in Shell. 

Sardines in Waxed Paper. 

Brown Bread-and-butter Sandwiches. 

Canned Pears (Pint-can). 

T>inner 

Kornlet Soup. Boston Baked Beans. 

Tomatoes Stewed with Bread Crumbs. 

Celery. Neufchatel Cheese. Crackers. 

Cored Apples Stewed in Syrup, Cream. 

Cereal Coffee. 



breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Sliced Bananas, Cream. 

Bacon, Potato Cakes. Eggs in Shell. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 

*Bojr Luncheon 

Sliced Chicken. 

Rye Bread-and-butter Sandwiches. Olives. 

Cups of Jelly with Nuts. Wafers. 

^nner 

Potato Soup, Garnish of Peas. 

Canned Salmon (heated in can). Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Tapioca with Pineapple, Cream. 

Cafe Noir. 



'Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat, Cream. 

Scrambled Eggs. Rolls (reheated) . 

Coffee. 

*5ojr Luncheon 

Baked Beans and Tomato Salad. Rolls. 

Cooked Apples. 

Cold Coffee and Cream 

(In pint jar or bottle.) 

T>inner 

Clam Bouillon. 

Corned Beef (Canned). Mustard. 

Stewed Celery in Cream Sauce. Boiled Potatoes. 

Lettuce Salad. 
Corn-starch Pudding, Sugar and Cream. Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Granulated Barley, Cream. 

Salmon Cakes. Cole Slaw. Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Box Luncheon 

Chopped Chicken Sandwiches. 

Green Tomato Sweet Pickle. 

Lady-finger and Pineapple Sandwiches. 

Oranges. 

T>inner 

Mock Bisque Soup, Bread Sticks. 

Lamb Chops, Boiled Rice. 

Kornlet Souffle. 

Water Cresses. Neufchatel Cheese. 

Crackers. 

Canned Pears. Cookies. Cafe Noir. 



Breakfast 

VitOS with Dates. 

Toast with Anchovy Paste and Poached Eggs. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Box Luncheon 
Boston Brown-bread-and-butter 

Sandwiches. 
Neufchatel Cheese. Celery. 

Baked Cup Custards. 

'Dinner 

Oyster Stew. 
Pine-olas. 
Lettuce-and-egg Salad. Rolls. 

Cranberry Puffs. Cranberry Sauce. 
Cafe Noir. 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Cream. 

Creamed Corned Beef. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Toast. 

Coffee. 



Box Luncheon 

Chopped Corned Beef 

Sandwiches 

(Horseradish Sauce). 

Coffee Eclairs. 

Cold Tea. 



T>inner 

Hamburg Steak. 

Macaroni in Tomato Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Cress Salad. 

Plain Junket. 

Preserved Ginger (Jar 15c.). 

Cafe Noir. 






Yule Tide Menus 

" What we gave, we have ; 
What we spent, we had ; 
What we left, we lost." 

Christmas Dinner [Red Color Scheme) 

I 

l©itb matice totoarb^? none, toitb cftaritp for ^\,— Lincoln. 

Consomme, with Chicken-custard and Peas. 

Boiled Middle Cut of Cod, Black Butter. 

Cubes of Tomato Jelly, with Lettuce and Mayonnaise. 

Young Goose, Roasted. 

Sifted Apple Sauce, with Candied Cherries. Stuffed Onions. Mashed Potato. 

Celery. Crackers. Edam Cheese. 

Mince Pie. 

Caramel Ice Cream. Bonbons. Cafe Noir. 

II 

" (^bp cbiltiren Kifte oTite plantjB rounb about tbp table." 

Consomme, with Egg Balls, Bread Sticks, Celery. 

Roast Beef, "Platter Gravy, Apple and Barberry Jelly. 

Mashed Potato. Spinach a la Cr£;me. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Entire Wheat Bread and Nut Sandwiches. 

Individual Charlotte Russe. Preserved Quinces. Bonbons. 

Coffee. 

Ill 

;^o come>^ a recftoning toben tbe banquet'? o'er.— Gay. 

CONSOMMIi, WITH ChESTNUT TiMBALES AND TURNIP BaLLS. 

Fillets of Flounder, with Blanched Oysters. 
Potatoes, Boiled. Hollandaise Sauce. Hot House Cucumbers. 

Young Goose, Roasted. 

Chantilly Apple Sauce with Horseradish. 

Celery, with Brown Sauce. 

Vol-au-Vent of Frogs' Legs and Hard Boiled Eggs, Soubise. 

Roast Ducks, Olive Sauce. 

Orange and Celery Salad. 

Plum Pudding. Hard Sauce. Castellane Pudding. 

Grape Juice Sherbet, Cheese Bouchees. 

Cafe Noir. 



Seasonable Menus, fatiuarj? 

God sendeth and giveth, both mouth and the meat. — Tusser 



"Breakfast 
Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat. 

Stewed Dates, Cream. 

Salt Codfish Balls, Chili Sauce. 

Saratoga Corn Cake. Cereal Coffee. 

^nner 

Cream-of-celery Soup with Peas. 

Bread Stici<s. Little Pig, Roasted. 

Glazed Turnips, Mashed Potatoes, Polenta. 

Apples in Jelly. 

Lettuce-and-nut Salad. 

Cranberry Pie. Cafe Noir. 

Supper 

Curry of Macaroni. 

Smoked Beef Sandwiches. 

Wafers. Tea. 



breakfast 

Granulated Barley, Cream. 

Salt Mackerel, Broiled. 

Cream Potatoes witli Parsley. 

Saratoga Corn Cake (reheated). Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Risotto. 

Potato-and-mackerel Salad. 

Boston Brown Bread with Butter. Tea. 

^nner 

Potato Soup. 

Cold Pork, Sliced Thin. 

Hot Apple Sauce. 

Baked Squash. Cole Slaw. 

Grape Whip. Brownies. Cafe Noir. 



"Breakfast 
Ralston Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Cold Roast Pork, Baked Apples. 
Baked Potatoes. 
Rye Bread (Fresh). 
Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Welsh Rarebit, 

Canned Peaches. Gingerbread. 

Cereal Coffee. 

T>inner 

Chicken Fricassee. 

Boiled Rice. Cauliflower, HoUandaise Sauce. 

Celery-and-apple Salad. 

Home-made Candy. Cafe Noir. 



"Breakfast 

Quaker Oats with Raisins, Cream. 

Fried Smelts. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Salad Rolls. Honey. 

Squash Pie. Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Spht Pea Soup. 

Salpicon of Chicken in Rice Croustades. 

Escalloped Cabbage. 

Cress Salad (Hothouse). 

Pomona Sherbet (Sweet Cider, Frozen). 

Cafe Noir. 



o 

w 

CO 



"Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Rolled Wheat. 

Stewed Figs, Cream. 

Dried Beef in Cream Sauce. Baked Potatoes. 

Yeast Rolls (reheated). Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Escalloped Oysters. 

Baking-pow^der Biscuits (entire Wheat Flour). 

Cole Slaw. 
Apple Puree, JelHed, Whipped Cream. Tea. 

"TXnner 

Mutton " Hot Pot," Canned Peas. 

Lettuce-and-cheese Salad. 

Vanilla Ice-cream (Junket). 

New York Gingerbread. Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 
Pettijohn's Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Fried Oysters. Chow-chow. 
Corn Meal Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons. 

Apple Pie. Cream Cheese. 

Tea. 

"Dinner 

Boiled Codfish, Black Butter. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes. Kornlet Custard. 

Lettuce-and-tomato Jelly Salad. 

Cracker Fruit Pudding. 

Cafe Noir. 



"Breakfast 

Corn-meal Mush. 

Winter Sweets, Baked. 

Broiled Ham. Kornlet Omelet. 

Brown Hashed Potatoes. 

Entire Wheat Mufiins. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Dried Lima Beans, Stewed. 

Fresh Rye Bread and 

Butter. 

Preserved Quinces 

with Cream. 

Tea. 



"Dinner 

Codfish, Ambassador Style. 

Baked Potatoes. Brussels Sprouts, 

Buttered. 

Celery Salad. 

Steamed Indian Pudding. 

Preserved Ginger. Cafe Noir. 



In Reference to Menus 



THE seasonable menus in this 
issue are written for luncheon 
at noon ; and yet, while this 
seems the most desirable plan of meals 
in many families, the custom is not 
universally acceptable. School is a 
hungry place ; and, moreover, active 
children digest and assimilate food 
ver}' rapidly. A child a dozen years 
of age needs each day food capable of 
producing nearly as many calories of 
energ}' as that required by a working- 
man. This thought should be kept in 
mind ; and, whether children return for 
a second school session or not, atten- 
tion should be given to the noon-day 
meal. Cold, starchy food eaten habit- 
ually will, in the process of time, en- 
gender dyspepsia and the whole train 
of ills that follow in its wake. Chil- 
dren up to the age of at least a dozen 
years should have their heartiest meal 
in the middle of the day ; and the in- 
creased amiability of their conduct as- 
sured by this step, to say nothing of its 
lifelong effect upon health, will more 
than compensate for the extra labor it 
involves. 

The menus for light housekeeping 
are planned for three young women 
employed in offices from nine until 
live, who take a cold luncheon from 
home. The dishes are such (with the 
exception of bread, baked beans, and 
the fowl, purchased already cooked) as 
can be prepared with a two-burner gas 
or oil stove and a chafing-dish. Where 
gas is used in the rooms, it is well to 
be able to connect the chafing-dish with 
the gas supply. A handsome frame, 
containing a burner, upon which the 
blazer or hot water pan may rest, or 



the tea kettle be set, and flat-irons, 
etc., be heated, is now displayed at 
gas exchanges. With gas as a fuel, 
the flame being easily controlled, chaf- 
ing-dish cookery is much simplified. 
Of the dishes mentioned in the menus, 
toast will be found the most incon- 
venient to prepare. Zwieback, pur- 
chasable at most bakers, can be substi- 
tuted. At times the bread may be 
dried out in a small oven placed over 
one of the burners. This oven will be 
found very convenient, on occasion, in 
keeping part of the meal hot. 

For the tomato cream toast prepare 
a sauce, using two tablespoonfuls, each, 
of butter and flour, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, 
and half a cup, each, of tomato puree 
and milk. 

For the tomato pure'e pass a can of 
tomatoes through a sieve, and use what 
is needed for the sauce. Or, if a richer 
and more concentrated flavor of tomato 
be desired, let the pure'e simmer until 
well reduced. Then a part may be 
used for the "rarebit" at supper, and 
the rest set aside in a cool place for 
the mock bisque soup on Tuesday. 
Concentrated tomato pure'e, put up in 
cans ready for use, may be purchased 
in city stores. Dip the edges of the 
toast in boiling salted water, then 
cover with the hot sauce. Finish each 
slice with a carefully poached egg. 
If a more substantial breakfast be 
desired, sprinkle each slice with a 
tablespoonful of grated cheese before 
the Qgg is set in place. 

Dinner biscuit are peculiar small 
square crackers, made expressly for 
soup. 



In Reference to Menus 



i8s 



No sauce being available for the 
chicken, the peas are served in a white 
sauce. A scant cup of sauce will be 
sufficient, just enough to hold them 
together. On opening the can, set 
aside half a cup of the peas for the 
soup on Monday. 

Half a cabbage will give sufficient 
material for several dinner salads. 

Shape whatever potato remains from 
dinner into cakes : these can be quickly 
fried in the hot bacon fat for the 
Monday breakfast. There is bacon 
and bacon. Mild-cured, tender bacon 
is procurable ; and the best is the 
cheapest. 

The quick-cooking varieties of tapi- 
oca make delicious desserts, easily and 
quickly prepared. Raisins stewed in 
water, used in the place of the pine- 
apple, given in the menu, are more 
wholesome than when they are eaten 
uncooked ; and, thus used with tapioca, 
they are useful in an emergency. 

For the pineapple tapioca add to 
half a twenty-cent can of grated pine- 
apple enough boiling water to make a 
pint in all : into this, when hot, stir a 
scant cup of tapioca. Cook until trans- 
parent, add a few grains of salt, the 
juice of half a lemon, and half a cup 
of sugar. Beat thoroughly, and serve 
hot with cream. Cook the other half 
of the pineapple with one-third a cup 
of sugar, add the juice of the other 
half of the lemon, let boil once, then 
set aside as a filling for the lady-finger 
sandwiches. 

Boil three or four more potatoes 
than are needed for dinner on Mon- 
day. Pass through a ricer while hot, 
add butter, salt, and hot milk, and 
beat until very light. Then beat in the 
salmon left from dinner on Monday, 
picked into bits. Shape into small 



cakes, and set aside to be fried for 
breakfast. 

Baked apples are greatly relished 
by most people ; but, when a hot oven 
is not available, a very good substitute 
may be found in apples cored and 
pared and cooked in a little syrup on 
the top of the range. If convenient, a 
little jelly, currant, or quince, may be 
added to the syrup. Cook the apples 
slowly, turning frequently, that the 
shape may be kept perfect. They are 
good even without cream. When cold, 
they are easily carried for luncheon. 

For the corn-starch pudding on Thurs- 
day, stir one-fourth a cup of corn-starch, 
mixed with cold milk to pour, into 
a pint of scalded milk ; stir until the 
milk thickens, then occasionally for 
fifteen minutes. Add one or two eggs 
beaten with one-third a cup of sugar, 
and cook until the egg thickens, stir- 
ring constantly. Serve with sugar and 
cream, or put a little in the serving 
dishes with one or two halves of 
canned apricots or peaches in the 
centre of each, and a little juice from 
the jar over the whole. 

For the breakfast on Thursday 
spread hot slices of toast with anchovy 
paste, and place poached eggs upon 
the toast. 

In the Yule-tide menus consomm(f 
with a garnish is given as the soup. 
In serving at the dinner table, have the 
consomme in the tureen and the gar- 
nish in a vegetable dish. Then, when 
a ladleful of soup has been placed in 
a soup plate, add to it a tablespoonful 
or more of' the garnish. Use about a 
dozen peas and a dozen pieces of the 
custard, or if, as is sometimes the case, 
timbales cut in three even slices are 
to be served, use with a dozen pieces'of 
the small garnish two slices of timbale. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to cuHnary science and domestic economics in 
general, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must 
reach us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to 
appear. In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. 
Address queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston 
Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 413. — A. H., Harlem, N.Y. : 
" What kind of a pan do you use for fry- 
ing fish t How can fish be fried a golden 
brown ? What kind of a knife is used in 
turning fish so that it may be unbroken ? " 

Frying Fish 

If the fish, as a dry slice of halibut 
or swordfish, is to be fried upon one 
side and then turned and fried on the 
other, a heavy iron frying-pan will be 
found most suitable. A few spoonfuls 
of fat may be heated in the pan (there 
should be only enough oil or fat to 
keep the fish from sticking to the pan), 
and into this lay the prepared fish. 
Cook until well browned (if there is a 
strong heat, the stove lid should not be 
removed from under the pan). Then 
with a long and broad-bladed knife turn 
and cook upon the other side until 
well browned. To prepare the fish, 
dip, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
in flour sprinkled on a fish-board or 
a piece of wrapping paper, and thus 
cover each side lightly with the flour. 
Or dip in milk and then in fine bread 
crumbs, or it may be egged-and-bread- 
crumbed. Probably the most - whole- 



some way of frying fish is in deep fat, 
or " the bath." Cut the fish in pieces 
for serving, season with salt and pep- 
per, and onion and lemon juice if de- 
sired, then egg-and-bread-crumb per- 
fectly. Arrange four or five pieces in 
a frying-basket, and lower into a Scotch 
bowl containing enough hot fat to 
cover the fish. The fat should be hot 
enough to brown a crumb of bread 
while counting forty as the clock ticks. 
Small fillets of fish require between 
three and four minutes to cook; and 
the fat should be withdrawn from 
strong heat after the first minute, to 
avoid browning the fish too much. 
Thick fillets will need longer cooking. 
Drain the fish in the basket, then 
place on soft paper inside the oven 
door for a moment. 



Query 414. — Miss M. E. Y., Narra- 
gansett Pier, R.I.: "Recipe for salmon 
loaf." 

Salmon Loaf 

Cook one cup, each, of soft bread 
crumbs and rich milk to a paste. Add 
half a cup of cream, half a teaspoonful 



Queries and Answers 



187 



of salt, a few grains of cayenne or 
paprika, and a pint of cooked salmon, 
rubbed fine with a wooden spoon. 
Fold in the whites of six eggs beaten 
dry, or use three whole eggs beaten 
without separating. If desired, flavor 
with a tablespoonful of essence of an- 
chovy, or use onion and lemon juice. 
Turn into a buttered mould, and bake 
standing in a pan of hot water until 
the centre seems firm, — about an 
hour. Serve with Hollandaise or other 
fish sauce. 

Query 415. — Mrs. F. B. E. Laconia, 
N.H. : "Recipes for a cake calling for 
two or three eggs in which chocolate is 
used in the cake mixture : for angel cake 
taking less than the usual nine or ten eggs : 
for banana or other fruit fritters with a 
sauce. Kindly state also with which 
course of a dinner fruit fritters would be 
served." 

Chocolate Cake 

Mix and bake the following ingre- 
dients according to the directions given 
in last number, adding the chocolate 
just before the whites of the eggs : 
Half a cup of butter, one cup of sugar, 
half a cup of milk, two cups of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, three 
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
three ounces of melted chocolate, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and the 
whites of three eggs. 

Chocolate Cake No. 2 

Half a cup of butter, one cup of 
sugar mixed with one teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, and one-fourth a cup of 
cocoa, the yolks of three eggs, half a 
cup of cold water, one teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract, one cup and two level 
tablespoonfuls of flour, three level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder, and the 
whites of three eggs. This may be 



baked in a loaf, but small tins will 
give the best result. 

Eggs in Angel Cake 

The recipe for angel cake is in ac- 
cordance with the general rule for all 
sponge cakes, proper ; that is, the 
weight of the eggs in sugar and half 
the weight in flour. Given by meas- 
ure, it is one cup of whites of eggs 
(whites of ten eggs usually), one cup of 
sugar, one cup of flour. A proper 
measuring cup for cooking holds ex- 
actly half a pint (beer measure). 
There are not two cups of milk in a 
pint of milk, as it is sold. Half this 
recipe gives a cake of very pretty size. 
As an angel cake is usually flavored 
with vanilla rather than lemon zest or 
rind, half a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar to a cup of eggs supplies the 
place of the lemon juice usually put 
into sponge cake. The reason for 
using an acid in this connection is not 
thoroughly understood. 

Banana Fritters 

{Regulation Style) 

Cut six bananas, free from skin and 
coarse thread-like covering, in halves 
crosswise, then again lengthwise. 
Sift over them two tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar, sprinkle with four or 
five tablespoonfuls of sherry wine and 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Let 
stand half an hour, then drain. Dip 
each piece separately in batter, fry in 
deep fat, drain on soft paper, and dust 
with powdered sugar. Serve as a hot 
entremet either with or without a 
sauce. Fruit fritters are also often 
served as an entree, and are brought 
in with or just following the piece de 
I'esistance of the dinner. 



i88 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Fritter Batter 

Sift a cup of pastry flour, add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and stir 
in gradually between half and two- 
thirds a cup of lukewarm water. Add 
also a tabiespoonful of oil and the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, then fold in 
the whites of two stiff-beaten eggs. 
Let stand some time before using. 

Lemon Sauce 

Cook a cup of sugar and one-third 
a cup of water five minutes after boiling 
begins, and remove from the fire. Add 
a tabiespoonful of butter and the juice 
of half a lemon ; or add one-fourth a 
cup of currant jelly and one table- 
spoonful of lemon juice. 

Baked Bananas 

[Banafta Fritters Modernized) 

Select six or eight bananas, strip up 
a section of skin from each banana 
and loosen the pulp from the skin ; 
return the skin to its original position 
and bake the bananas in a hot oven, 
until the skin is discolored and the 
pulp softened a little throughout. Re- 
move the pulps from the skins, and 
pour over them currant jelly sauce. 
The bananas and sauce may be 
sprinkled with fine-chopped almonds 
or pistachios, or they may be rolled 
in macaroon crumbs. The sauce is 
poured about them. 

Currant-jelly Sauce 

Beat half a cup of currant jelly with 
a fork. Then dissolve in two-thirds a 
cup of boiling water, and thicken with 
a teaspoonful and a half of arrowroot 
mixed with a few spoonfuls of cold 
water. Just before serving, add a 



tabiespoonful, each, of butter and lemon 
juice. 

Query 416. — A. H. Harlem, New 
York. " How shall I know when to add 
salt in cooking vegetables? How roast a 
duck or goose ? What kind of dressing ? " 

Use of Salt in Boiling Vegetables 

Salt is added to vegetables for savor 
and, in some cases, to help retain the 
color of green-colored vegetables, as 
spinach, peas, asparagus, etc. Salt 
tends to draw out the juices and 
toughen fibre. Consequently, if you pre- 
fer color and savor to texture, or if you 
know the vegetables are quickly grown, 
fresh, and tender, use salt. If the 
vegetables are wilted and in conse- 
quence liable to be tough, add the salt 
just as they are done, thereby sacrific- 
ing color to tenderness. Potatoes, 
either white or sweet, that are usually 
tender when boiled, are best boiled in 
salted water. 

Roasted Goose and Duck 

Both geese and ducks are commonly 
roasted without dressing. If desired, 
the potato dressing given in the pre- 
ceding issue of the magazine may be 
used. A goose is usually washed upon 
the outside with hot soap suds. In 
trussing, fasten the legs close to the 
body and the wings in such a manner 
as to round up the breast as much as 
possible. Cook a goose about an 
hour without dredging with flour ; 
then pour off all the fat in the pan, 
fasten pork over the breast, and baste 
with the dripping from this and the 
goose, to which a little hot water is 
added ; or quite frequently all fat is 
discarded in basting, hot water or 
broth being used. A *' green " goose, 



Queries and Answers 



189 



one four months old, will cook in from 
one hour and a half to three hours. 
Cook until the joints separate easily. 
Serve with apple sauce. Ducks are 
basted as soon as the initial " searing 
over " is accomplished. A domestic 
duck requires an hour or more of 
cooking. If toughness be feared, 
steam one hour before roasting. Wild 
ducks are served rare, and are cooked 
in thirty or forty minutes in a hot 
oven. Serve wild ducks with currant 
jelly, olive or orange salad. Goose- 
berry sauce is served with roast goose. 



Query 417. Miss F. G. R., Gardiner, 
Maine : " Recipe for chocolate and va- 
nilla caramels." 

Chocolate Caramels 

Stir together over the fire one cup 
of molasses, half a cup of granulated 
sugar, and one-fourth a cup of water 
until the sugar is dissolved. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and two 
squares or ounces of chocolate. Stir 
until the chocolate melts, then cook with- 
out stirring, until a little tried in cold 
water may. be formed into a firm ball. 
Flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla 
and turn into a rectangular pan to 
cool. When firm, but not quite cold, 
cut into small squares. The fire must 
be quite low for the last of the cook- 
ing, or the mixture will burn. 

Vanilla Caramels 

Put over the fire two cups of gran- 
ulated sugar, half a cup of cream, one- 
fourth a cup, each, of molasses and 
butter. Stir until the sugar is dis- 
solved. Then let cook without stir- 
ring from fifteen to eighteen minutes, or 
until a firm ball may be formed in cold 



water. Flavor with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and beat until creamy. Turn 
into a buttered pan of such size that 
the mixture will be about an inch thick. 
When firm, but not too cold, cut into 
small squares. Substitute one-fourth 
a pound of melted chocolate for the 
molasses, if desired. 

Vanilla Caramels v^ith Glucose 

Stir half a can of condensed milk 
into a cup of sweet cream or milk. 
When evenly blended, add three-fourths 
a pound of granulated sugar (one cup 
and a half) and six ounces of glu- 
cose. Cook over a slow fire, stirring 
constantly, until a little tried in ice- 
water forms a hard ball that softens a 
little between the fingers. Stir in a 
teaspoonful of vanilla, and pour into a 
buttered pan of such size that the 
candy will be about three-fourths an 
inch thick. When cold, turn from the 
pan and cut in cubes. 

Vanilla Caramels with Cherries 

When beating the vanilla caramel 
mixture, add about a dozen candied 
cherries cut in halves. 

Vanilla Caramels with Nuts 

Add the meats from about a dozen 
English walnuts broken into halves. 



Query 418. Mrs. H. H. D., New 
York : " Kindly pubHsh a recipe for plain 
caramel filling without chocolate. The 
one I have invariably curdles while cook- 
ing. Also a recipe for soft sugar cookies." 

Caramel Frosting 

Scald one cup of milk or, better still, 
use half a cup of condensed milk and 
half a cup of water, add two cups of 



90 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



brown sugar and one tablespoonful of 
butter, and boil until a soft ball can be 
formed when tried in cold water, about 
236 degrees F. by the sugar thermom- 
eter. It will take rather more than 
half an hour. Beat until of the right 
consistency to spread, and spread very 
quickly, because it hardens quickly. 

Soft Sugar Cookies 

Cream a cup of butter. Add grad- 
ually two cups of sugar, two eggs, 
beaten without separating, and, alter- 
nately, one cup of milk and four cups 
of flour, sifted with two level tea- 
spoonfuls of cream of tartar and half a 
teaspoonful of soda. If desired more 
soft, use less butter or more milk. 
Take out in small portions upon a 
floured board, and knead slightly. 
Roll to three-eighths an inch thick. 
Cut into rounds, sprinkle with granu- 
lated sugar, and bake in a quick oven. 



Query 419. — Mrs. A. E. S., Detroit, 
Mich. : " Kindly tell me if I can purchase 
a chafing dish that may be heated with 
gas instead of alcohol, and where ? " 

Chafing-dish Heated with Gas 

Any chafing-dish may be heated 
with gas or electricity, if it be con- 
nected with the supply. A local gas 
or electric company will fit a gas 
burner or electric stove inside the 
frame of a chafing-dish, then, with rub- 
ber tubing for gas and flexible cord for 
electricity, either may be connected 
with the supply that is used for light- 
ing the room. Portable frames fitted 
with gas burners and with rubber tub- 
ing attached, upon which the hot-water 
pan or blazer is set for cooking, may 
be purchased at stores where gas ap- 
pliances are kept. 



Query 420.— Mrs. R. T. H. H., New 
York : " Recipe for cheese timbales, 
served hot with a sauce." 

Cheese Timbales 
Make a sauce with two tablespoon- 
fuls, each, of butter and flour and half 
a cup, each, of thin cream, white stock, 
and milk. Melt in this half a pound of 
grated cheese, add a dash of salt and 
paprika, and pour over three whole 
eggs and the yolks of four beaten until 
a spoonful can be taken up. Turn 
into buttered timbale moulds and bake 
standing in a pan of hot water (the 
w^ater should not boil) until the centres 
are firm. Serve hot with cream or 
tomato sauce. 



Query 421.- 
Deland cakes." 



Recipe for Margaret 



Margaret Deland Cakes 

Beat two eggs slightly ; add half a 
cup of brown sugar, then half a cup of 
flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of bak- 
ing-powder and one-third a teaspoon- 
ful of salt sifted together. When well 
mixed, stir in one cup of pecan nuts 
cut in small pieces. Put the mixture 
into small well-buttered tins, with a 
pecan nut meat in the centre of each 
cake. Bake about fifteen minutes. 



Query 422. — Mrs. N. D. T., Pasadena, 
Gal. : " Recipes for sauce ravigotte for 
fried smelts, cream soups, and fillets of 
beef minion, bordelaise." 

Sauce Ravigotte 

Chop fine two shallots ; add two 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and let sim- 
mer until reduced one-half. Add a 
cup of sauce made with white stock. 
Finish with a little fine-chopped tar- 
ragon, chervil, and parsley, and add 



Queries and Answers 



191 



two tablespoonfuls of butter in bits. 
Ravigotte butter would be quite as 
good, if not better, for fried fish of any 
kind. A recipe for this was given on 
page 4 of the June and July issue. 

Cream Soups 

Cream soups, in the main, consist of 
a combination of white sauce and 
vegetable or fish pulp. The pulp is 
rather thin, as the liquid in which the 
vegetable is cooked is also used. 
When too thin, it should be reduced by 
evaporation. A general formula would 
be one part pulp to two parts liquid 
for the sauce. 

If the resultant soup be too thick, add 
milk or stock, or, what is tetter than 
either, from half to a whole cup of hot 
cream for each three pints of soup. 
Yolks of eggs, one or more, beaten and 
diluted with cream, may be added at 
the last for additional thickening and 
richness. The soup must not boil after 
the eggs are added, or it will become 
" curdled." 

Cream of Cauliflower 
Soak the cauliflower head down- 
ward in salted water, then cook until 
tender. Remove some of the best 
flowerets to serve in the soup, and press 
the rest through a sieve. Add the 
water, if not too strong. Scald a slice 
of onion in twice the quantity of milk 
(if the pulp is very thin, diminish the 
quantity of milk), and use this in mak- 
ing the sauce for the soup. Season with 
salt and pepper, and add the flowerets 
of cauliflower. 

Fillets Minion a la Bordelaise 
Season six or eight rounds of steak 
cut from the centre of a beef tender- 



loin with salt and pepper. Dip in 
olive oil and roll in fresh bread crumbs, 
smooth with a broad-bladed knife, and 
broil rather rare over a clear fire. 
Dish in a circle alternating with pieces 
of bread, of same shape and size, 
fried in oil. Pour a Bordelaise sauce 
in the centre, and serve at once. 

Bordelaise Sauce 
Fry half a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped shallot and a bruised clove of 
garlic in a tablespoonful of butter. Add 
a glass of claret, a dash of cayenne, 
and a cup of espagnole sauce. Reduce 
to the proper consistency, then add a 
teaspoonful, each, of lemon juice and 
chopped parsley, and two ounces of 
beef marrow cut in rounds. Serve at 
once. 



Query 423. — Mrs. D. S. C, Chicago, 
111. : " How can eggs be kept from break- 
ing or cracking while boiling ? " 

Why Eggs crack in Boiling 

Heat must be applied to all parts of 
the shell at once, else the shell expanding 
unevenly cracks as does a drinking 
glass, or glass can, when hot water is 
poured upon one side. Eggs cannot be 
cooked properly in boiling water ; and, 
if they be put with a spoon into water 
just below the boiling-point, and allowed 
to cook in the water at that tempera- 
ture, there will be no danger of crack- 
ing- 

Query 424. — Mrs. S. P. L., Mauch 
Chunk, Pa. : " Recipes for kisses and 
meringues to fill with ice-cream." 

Kisses and Meringues 

A recipe for meringues was given in 
the October-November issue of this 
magazine. Kisses are the same mixt- 
ure shaped in very small rounds. 



192 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Query 425. — Mrs. M. V. B., Atchison, 
Kan. : *' In making cake from bread dough, 
ought it to be kneaded as stiff as dough, 
or be beaten into a batter, as in ordinary 
cake?" Recipes for "Lemon Cheese 
Cakes," " Sweet and Irish Potato-pies," 
" Gingerbread," " Lemon Jelly made with 
Gelatine," " Green Sour Pickles," and 
good doughnuts with explicit directions 
for frying. 

Cake from Bread Dough 
Use ordinary bread dough when 
light and just ready to shape into 
loaves. Add the other ingredients, and 
beat with the hands or hand until the 
mixture becomes a smooth batter. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes 
Pass enough cottage cheese through 
a colander to make one cup and a half. 
Add one-third a cup of sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls of cream, one tablespoonful 
of melted butter, the grated rind and 
juice of a lemon, three eggs beaten 
until light, and half a cup of citron and 
currants cut in small pieces. Beat until 
smooth. Line small tins with pastry. 
Fill with the cheese mixture, and bake 
about fifteen minutes, or until firm to 
the touch. Sprinkle with powdered 
sugar, and serve when partly cooled. 

Potato Pie (Mrs. Henderson) 
Beat one pound of sugar and three- 
fourths a pound of butter to a cream. 
Add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, 
two pounds of boiled potatoes, sifted, 
and mixed with the juice of a lemon, 
one cup of wine, three cups of rich 
milk, and, lastly, the whites of six eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. Bake with an 
under crust only. 

Lemon Jelly 
Soak half a package of gelatine in 
half a cup of cold water, and dissolve 



in two cups of boiling water. Add one 
cup of sugar, and, when cooled a little, 
one cup of lemon juice, strain into a 
mould, and put aside to become '' set." 
This should '' set," in a cool place 
without ice, in five or six hours. If 
wished sooner, cut down the quantity 
of hot water. 

Gingerbread 

Sift together two cups and one-third 
of flour, one teaspoonful and a half of 
soda, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one 
tablespoonful of ginger. Mix one-third 
a cup of melted butter, one cup of mo- 
lasses, and one cup of thick sour milk, 
and stir into the dry ingredients. Bake 
in a shallow pan about twenty-five 
minutes. 

Green Sour Pickles 

Use a cup of salt to a peck of cu- 
cumbers or green tomatoes sliced. Put 
in a stone jar in layers with the salt, 
cover with cold water, and let stand 
over night. In the morning drain off 
the brine, scald, and again pour over 
the vegetables. Let stand over night, 
drain, and heat an equal quantity of 
vinegar with the vegetables, and, when 
scalded, set aside until the next day. 
Scald enough vinegar to cover the 
pickles with four green or red peppers, 
two tablespoonfuls of whole cloves, 
and a piece of horseradish. Add the 
pickles, and, when scalded, store in 
jars. If a soft pickle be desired, cook 
longer in the brine. If a crisp pickle 
be preferred, add a piece of alum the 
size of a hickory nut to the first vine- 
gar. If a very green color be chosen, 
line the kettle in which the pickles are 
scalded with grape leaves, also cover 
the top of the pickles with leaves. 



Queries and Answers 



193 



Doughuts 

Sift together two cups of flour, two 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of mace, and half a cup 
of sugar (granulated). Beat two eggs 
until light and thick, then beat in grad- 
ually three level tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter and one-fourth a cup of 
milk, and stir the liquid into the dry 
ingredients. Take a small portion of 
dough onto the board dusted with 
flour. Toss with a knife until slightly 
floured, then pat out half an inch thick. 
Cut in rings or in strips that may be 
twisted, and fry in deep fat at such a 
temperature that the cake rises almost 
instantly to the surface and is not 
browned on the under side. Turn 
frequently, and cook from four to six 
minutes. 

Query 426. — Mrs. F. B., Philadelphia, 
Pa. : " Kindly give recipe for plunketts, 
also some new ideas for an engagement 
luncheon." 

Plunketts 
Cream one cup of butter ; gradually 
add one cup of sugar. Beat the 
whites of six eggs until dry, and the 
yolks until light-colored and thick. 
Add the yolks to the whites with a 
cutting and folding motion. Sift to- 
gether, twice, half a cup of flour, 
three-fourths a cup of corn-starch, and 
two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Add the beaten eggs to the butter 
and sugar gradually, then add the dry 
ingredients, and, at the last, a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract. Bake in 
individual tins, buttered. 

" Engagement " Luncheon 

If the luncheon be given to an- 
nounce the engagement of a member 
or guest of the family, with a wide, 



long ribbon tie a bunch of pink chrys- 
anthemums or pinks to the chair to 
be occupied by this particular young 
woman. Use the same flower for the 
floral decorations of the table. Some 
of the dishes in the following menu 
may be acceptable : — 

MENU 

Salpicon of Fruit in Orange Cups. 

Chicken Soup a la Reine, Two Bread Sticks. 

Lobster Newburg in Casseroles. 

Breaded Chops a la Maintenon, 

Tomato Sauce. 

Creamed Peas in Timbale Cases. 

Sweetbreads or Fillets of Chicken in 

Aspic Jelly, Celery, Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes, Bar-le-duc Preserves. 

Strawberry Sherbet and Vanilla 

Cream-Panachee. 

Little Cakes, Bonbons. 

Cafe Noir. 

Cut the oranges in halves crosswise, 
and, after removing the pulp, fasten two 
corresponding halves together with a 
bit of pink ribbon passed through a 
slit in each and tied with the bow at 
the top. Fill the cups with maras- 
chino cherries cut in halves, white 
grapes, skinned, seeded, and cut in 
halves, and the pulp and juice of the 
oranges mixed with a little sugar or 
syrup. Small earthenware casseroles of 
Saaregemines ware, previously heated, 
or ordinary shirring dishes may be 
used for serving the Newburg. Have 
the chops a generous inch thick ; cut 
through nearly to the bone as if to 
separate into two chops. Spread a 
cold mixture of chopped mushrooms 
cooked in butter with onion juice, and 
thickened with flour, between the parts 
of the chops, press together, egg-and- 
bread-crumb, and fry in deep fat, or, if 
preferred, they may be broiled. Cover 
the end of the bone with a paper frill, 
and serve the peas on the same plate. 




ADDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



At the Boston Cooking-school the 
normal class for the coming year is 
already full. The seats in the lecture- 
room for the housekeepers' class are 
well filled ; and as usual, at the cooks' 
class on Friday evenings, standing 
room is not to be found. More pri- 
vate classes than usual have been 
formed, and everything indicates a 
prosperous year. Dr. Elliot Joslin, 
specialist in dietetics, who so ably con- 
ducted the lectures in Physiology and 
Hygiene last year, has been engaged 
to give the lectures again this year. 
Dr. Mark Richardson gives the lect- 
ures in Bacteriology. 

Of the class graduating last June, 
among those of whom no previous men- 
tion has been made, Eloise P. Flood, of 
Wollaston, Mass., has been appointed 
supervisor of the diet kitchen at Grace 
Hospital, Detroit, Mich. 

Miss Katherine French has charge 
of the dietary department of Lakeside 
Hospital, Cleveland, Ohio. 

Miss Gertrude Schwind has charge 
of the diet kitchen connected with St. 
Luke's Hospital, Chicago, 111. 

Miss Jessie Loveridge has just en- 
tered upon her duties in connection 
with the diet kitchen of the Syracuse 
(N. Y.) Hospital for Women and Chil- 
dren. 

Abby L. Newhall is teaching even- 



ing classes connected with the public 
schools of Lynn, Mass. 

Miss Coral R. Havens has been ap- 
appointed teacher of cookery in the 
public schools of Detroit, Mich. 

Miss Lillian K. Bates is in charge 
of the diet kitchen at the Butterworth 
Hospital, Grand Rapids, Mich. ; and 
Emily Anderson is teaching cookery 
in a private school for young women 
in a Western city. 



Miss Stella Dodge, class of '99, for- 
merly in charge of the diet kitchen at 
Hamat Hospital, resigned her position 
at the beginning of the school year to 
take charge of the Erie (Pa.) School 
of Domestic Science. The school has 
opened with a large attendance and 
much enthusiasm. 



(E^ Rely upon 

BmChlom 



as your household 
disinfectant. 




An odorless, colorless liquid ; 
powerful, safe, and cheap. 

Destroys disease germs and 
noxious gases, thus preventing 
sickness. Sold in quart bottles 
only, by druggists and high-class 
grocers. Prepared only by Henry 
B. Piatt, Piatt Street, New York. 



I 



News and Notes 



195 



Miss Bertha C. Prentiss, class of 

'99, has been appointed teacher of 

cookery in the public schools of Los 
Angeles, Cal. 

Invitations for the opening day of 
the Domestic Science Training School, 
53 Dearborn Street, Chicago, are here 
acknowledged. Mrs. E. O. Hiller, class 
of '98, is principal of this school. 



The Home Science Bureau of the 
Business Woman's Exchange gave a 
Home Science Reception at the Chi- 
cago Woman's Club, Fine Arts Build- 
ing, November 8. The object of the 
reception was to give household work- 
ers an opportunity to exhibit their skill 
and to encourage the scientific study 
of domestic science. Prizes were of- 
fered for dishes of various kinds, all 
of which were to be exhibited cold. 
Soups, fish, meats, salads, desserts, 
bread, cakes, sauces, and dishes made 
from left-overs were included in the 
list; and three prizes were given in 
each class. Prizes w-ere also given 
for laundry work, mending, and menus. 
Medals were given to those who had 
been in the service of one employer 
ten years or more. Exhibitions were 
given in chafing-dish cookery, sewing, 
and dressmaking. 



Mrs. Alice Carey Waterman, of Chi- 
cago, has had a successful season of 
engagements with clubs, gas compa- 
nies, and Chautauqua Assemblies, in 
demonstration lectures in cookery. 
She is planning for interesting work 
this wdnter. 

Miss Sarah E. Woodworth-Craig is 
in charge of the Household Economic 
Department of the Y. W. C. A. at Cin- 



cinnati, and has full classes at the 
rooms in the evenings. These, to- 
gether with demonstrations on the 
chafing-dish, hospital work, and meals 
in the tenements, will make for her a 
busy season this wdnter. She has just 
returned from a course of lectures in 
Chicago. 



FOOD IN NEW YORK. 

An Experienced Physician's Work. 

Dr. Hylande MacGrath, in experimenting 
on the result of food on his own body, says : 
'' After eating four heaping teaspoons of 
Grape-Nuts with a little cream, I had occa- 
sion to walk about fourteen miles, and was 
surprised at my feeling of strength and 
buoyancy. On other occasions, when I 
have taken careful note of my feelings and 
sensations, I have discovered that intellect- 
ual tasks are comparatively easy when 
using Grape-Nuts at each meal. 

" Of course, I understand that the theory 
regarding Grape-Nuts is practically perfect. 
That is, the food contains elements that 
are well known, and, furnished in a concen- 
trated and quite delicious form, it is reason- 
able to expect results ; but the physical 
demonstration of these results is more 
satisfactory, always, than the mere state- 
ment of theory. 

" Grape-Nuts, combined with fruit and 
seasonable vegetables, I prescribe to ailing 
women and delicate men, and have not had 
a case yet that has not furnished gratifying 
results. A nervous, irritable man of seventy- 
two became fat and amiable using Grape- 
Nuts food as a regular (but not exclusive) 
diet. 

" I have found slender, anaemic girls 
improved rapidly in health, spirits, weight, 
and looks, on Grape-Nuts food. It w^ould 
be a blessing to thousands of such girls if 
this food was used more largely in board- 
ing-schools and seminaries, not to be ad- 
ministered as medicine, but as a pure, 
healthful, and highly nourishing food." 
Dr. MacGrath lives at 96 Fifth Avenue, 
New York. 



196 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Cooking at Wisconsin State Fair 

We print with pleasure an *' Outline 
of Work" planned by Mrs. Helen Arm- 
strong for her classes at the Wisconsin 
State Fair, held last September at 
Milwaukee. While such lessons can 
be more successfully conducted in a 
quiet class-room in the presence of an 
earnest, attentive audience, yet the 
women in the constantly shifting crowd 
at a fair are the very ones who need 
such instruction most ; and this course 
in cookery seems a step in the right 
direction. The idea has gone abroad 
too widely, because a subject is apt to 
be viewed superficially at first, that 
the study of cookery has nothing in it 
save that which appeals to the eye and 
taste. Let us hope there will be more 
of this or similar work done in the 
future. 

General Outline 

1. Food and its uses in the human 
system. 

2. Properties of food, its nutritive value 
and digestibility. 

3. Selection of food dependent upon — 
(i) Climate. 

(2) Age. 

(3) Health. 

(4) Occupation. 

(5) Individual needs. 

4. Food materials used and their prep- 
aration as influencing the physical, mental, 
and moral welfare. 

5. Food materials properly combined 
and advantages of a varied diet. 

6. Preparation of foods to insure com- 
binations both healthful and economical. 

7. Domestic economy in time, strength, 
and expense. 

First Lesson 
Meats 

1. Their composition. 

2. Principles involved in cooking, 

3. Methods — 
ia) Broiling. 
{b) Roasting. 
{c) Stewing. 
{d) Frying. 



4. Selection of meats, use of various 
cuts, and economical preparation. Soup 
and its value. 

5. Comparative digestibility of different 
meats. 

The programme was prepared with 
especial thought as to economy and to 
illustrate the possibilities and advan- 
tages of meals made both palatable 
and attractive. 

BAD DREAMS. 

Caused by Coffee. 

" I have been a coffee drinker, more or 
less, ever since I can remember, until a few 
months ago I became more and more 
nervous and irritable, and finally I could 
not sleep at night, for I was horribly dis- 
turbed by dreams of all sorts and a species 
of distressing nightmare. 

" Finally, after hearing the experience of 
numbers of friends who had quit coffee and 
gone to drinking Postum Food Coffee, and 
learning of the great benefits they had de- 
rived, I concluded coffee must be the 
cause of my trouble, so I got some Postum 
Food Coffee and had it made strictly ac- 
cording to directions. 

"I was astonished at the flavor and 
taste. It entirely took the place of coffee, 
and, to my very great satisfaction, I began 
to sleep peacefully and sweetly. My nerves 
improved, and I wish I could warn every 
man, woman, and child from the unwhole- 
some drug, ordinary coffee. 

" People^ really do not appreciate or 
realize what a powerful drug it is and 
what terrible effect it has on the human 
system. If they did, hardly a pound of it 
would be sold. I would never think of 
going back to coffee again. I would almost 
as soon think of putting my hand in a fire 
after I had once been burned. 

" A young lady friend of ours. Miss 
Emily Pierson, had stomach trouble for a 
long time, and could not get well as long 
as she used coffee. She finally quit coffee 
and began the use of Postum Food Coffee, 
and is now perfectly well. Yours for health. 

Don't publish my name.'' , Herington, 

Kansas. Name given by Postum Cereal 
Company, Limited, Battle Creek, Michigan. 



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The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. V. 



FEBRUARY and MARCH. 



No. 5. 




Old Oak Sideboard and Ancient Cooking Utensils at Royal School of Art Needlework, 

South Kensington 

From "Ye Art of Cookery in Ye Olden Time," by H. Senn. 



Some Famous Cooks 

Bv Frances H. Howard 



J4M0NG the earlier cooks of 
/ \ whom history makes mention 
Jl jLhttle is known save the name, 
for the newspaper was not ; and re- 
porters were a race yet to be created. 
Yet we know that cooks were prized 
and paid, and that they were proud 



and jealous of the honor of their pro- 
fession. 

Appreciation of good cooking natu- 
rally led to good cooks ; and as early as 
329 B.C. Aristotle writes, "It is less a 
rebuke for a man to be busy to know 
what is done in his kitchen than for a 



198 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



woman to know what is done without 
her house." 

It was early in the seventeenth cen- 
tury that Vatel saw fit to commit suicide 
because the expressman was late in 
delivering his fish ; yet even that act 
was applauded, while his employer 
wept, though whether at the loss of his 
cook or the delay to his dinner history 
doesn't state. 

Still earlier, it was said that the chef 
employed by the Prince de Soubise 
was "a man of true science.'' 

Among French lovers of the art 
may be mentioned the Duke of Orleans, 
who invented several dishes, as did 
also his daughter, the Duchess of 
Berri. A sort of family accomplish- 
ment, it seems. 

The Duchess de Villeroi created 
the famed poidets a la llHe/vi, and 
Marie Leczinska, who married Henry 
XV., was known for delicious pate's 
called bouchees a la reiiie ; and cbtelettes 
a la Maiiitejwfi were first introduced 
by Madame Maintenon. Madame 
le Pompadour, wdth a woman's wit, 
when she found her power over Henry 
XV. was waning, renewed it by con- 
cocting new dishes, and thus held sway 
by means of his stomach after she had 
lost his heart. 

Beauvilliers was sometimes called 
the head of the classical school of his 
art. He was remarkable for judg- 
ment and adaptability, and, while rigidly 
adhering to well-known and thoroughly 
tried methods, w^as capable of adapt- 
ing and grouping ingredients — so to 
speak — as to give new results. 

Cooks from the first assumed a 
position of importance, from which 
possibly a perversion of the law of 
heredity may explain some phenomena 
of the modern Intelligence Office. 



The popular idea that all chefs are 
French is justifiable, perhaps, frona 
their number and celebrity. In France 
the profession of chef'is reputable. It 
involves a broad education and care- 
ful study, the mastery of several lan- 
guages, and a thorough training in 
all the various departments, which in 
the kitchen are placed in the hands of 
specialists. 

In the seventeenth century it was said 
by an authority, '' The master cook 
should be a man of years, well ex- 
perienced, whereby the younger cooks 
will be drawn the better to obey his 
directions.'' 

Professional cooks began to appear 
in England soon after the conquest. Of 
these history speaks particularly of 
Joseph Cook, who was chief cook to 
Charles I., and had the courage to 
place often before his Majesty oatmeal 




Kitchen in the Seventeentli Century 



Some Famous Cooks 



199 



pudding, hasty pudding in a bag, and 
other simple dishes. 

Louis Eustache Ude, often called 
" the great Ude," who had presided 
over the kitchen of Louis XVL, went 
afterward to England, and was employed 
by the Earl of Sefton and others. 

In 1665 Mr Joseph Cooper, " Chief 
cook to the late King," published " The 
Art of Cookery, refined and aug- 
mented," which reached a third edi- 
tion. It is probable that the first cook- 
book was published in England in 1360, 
though Spain has claimed this honor. 

A wonderful chef^ of whom the gas- 



vented for the pope. And naturally, 
perhaps, the first invention of his 
descendant was a sauce for fast-din- 
ners. 

Careme studied all the literature of 
his art obtainable, and made himself an 
authority in matters pertaining to it. 
He began with " roasting " under spe- 
cialists, then perfected himself in sauces, 
under still another specialist, and so on, 
till finally he "finished" under Robert 
L'Aine. 

With such knowledge and training, 
he was naturally in great demand, and 
for a few months, at a salary of five 




From Fratt Institute Monthly 



A Monk's Kitchen 



tronomic world took much note, was 
Careme. He was a Uneal descendant 
of that celebrated chef of Pope Leo X. 
who was called Jean de Careme — Jack 
of Lent — because of a soup he in- 



thousand a year, served George IV., 
but resigned, because the bill of fare 
was too simple to suit his taste. 

The Emperors of Russia and Austria 
both sought his services, and it is evi- 



200 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dent that he was possessed of the arro- 
gance of conscious value : for. after 
promising to go to Russia at five hun- 
dred dollars a month, he went to Aus- 
tria, taking care, however, to have his 
movements known, so that, later, he 
went to Russia, where he stayed only a 
short time because his household ex- 
pense book was overlooked. History 
repeats itself. 

Careme at one time served as chef 
to Napoleon the Great, but it seems 
doubtful whether he recognized any 
superior genius in the latter. Finally, 
he condescended to join the household 
of Baron Rothschild in Paris, where 
he once served a dinner which so en- 
chanted the famous Lady Morgan that 
she asked permission for the c/iefto be 
presented to her ; whereupon he was 
summoned to the sa/oN. This seems 
to be an experiment in solving the 
'' domestic problem " that has not yet 
been fully tested. 

Alexis Soyer, so widely known as 
the cook who w^ent to the Crimea, was 
born about 1800. He lived in London 
for some years, and served as cook at 
the Reform Club. While in the East, 
he revolutionized the system of camp- 
cooking, and introduced an intelligent 
method, which greatly enhanced the 
health and efficiency of the army. His 
fame as a cook at the club probably 
did more to secure his immortality 
than the wonderful and world-helping 



work he did in the army : but from the 
cJicf^s standpoint he was doubtless 
content. He wrote several books,. but 
they are rarely mentioned in the gen- 
eral world. 

Bechamel, having recommended him- 
self to the palates of gastronomers, 
has secured renown. While serving 
Louis XIV., he was the means of giv- 
ing zest to the glories of that monarch, 
and probably of consoling him in his de- 
cline ; but it may be questioned whether 
he would relinquish the honor of hav- 
ing given his name to a sauce for any 
favors which Louis could have be- 
stowed. 

Anthelme Brillat-Savarin was born 
in 1755. H^ ^^'^s bred to the law, be- 
came judge of the Court of Cassation, 
and member of the Legion of Honor, 
etc. He was nevertheless an enthusi- 
astic cook. During the Reign of 
Terror, he fled to Switzerland, and 
later came to America, where he made 
acquaintance of the wild turkey, which 
so engrossed his thoughts that even the 
conversation of Jefferson could not 
wholly hold his attention. He wrote 
several books, among them the cele- 
brated *' Physiologie du Gout,"' which 
ran through several editions and trans- 
lations. Women have him to thank, in 
that he proclaimed it was neither un- 
natural nor unfeminine for a woman to 
enjoy a square meal : he claimed also 
\\\2i.\ gouniiandise is favorable to beauty. 





Barley Bread. For recipe see page 224. 



Bread and Bread-making 



By Janet M. Hill 
Part II 



General Directions for Mixing 
and Baking Bread 

Time Needed for Bread-making. 
Now, the greater the number of 
yeast plants, the more quickly, other 
conditions being favorable, will the 
bread be lifted up ; and, in makino; 
bread, we take this fact into consider- 
ation. 

If bread is to be made quickly, 
two, even three, compressed yeast- 
cakes may be used to a pint of liquid. 
Thus made, the whole process need 
not take over three hours. If dough 
is to be mixed at night and baked with 
the first fire in the morning, the quan- 
tity of yeast may be reduced to one- 
third a cake to a pint of liquid. The 
longer time of fermentation, as a rule, 
gives the best-flavored bread ; for the 
by-products of fermentation, which give 



a peculiar and characteristic sweetness 
to the loaf, are generated during the 
longer process. In using a large 
amount of yeast, we may improve the 
flavor of the bread, at the expense of 
time, by " cutting down " the dough 
once or twice after it has risen to 
double its bulk. 

As the dough quickly rises again 
after a part of the gas has been let out, 
this does not lengthen the process to 
any considerable extent. Still, except 
during extreme heat, when souring may 
be anticipated, the method fulfils the 
requirements of occasional rather than 
general practice. 

Proportions of the Ingredients. 
The quantity of liquid rather than 
the quantity of flour determines the 
size of the loaf. Two cups of liquid 
will make two loaves of bread of 
average size ; but, whether two, two 



202 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and one-half, or three portions of flour 
be used to one of liquid, the difference 
will be one of texture rather than of 
size. Two cups of liquid will be found 
a most convenient unit of measure- 
ment. With this use from one-third 
a cake of compressed yeast to one 
whole cake, or even two or three cakes, 
according to the length of time to be 
spent in the operation, softened in 
half a cup of lukewarm liquid. If 
liquid yeast be used, take half a cup 
to two cups of liquid in case the 
dough is to stand over night. A level 
teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, if desired, and from two to 
three pints of flour complete the neces- 
sary ingredients. 

The Utensils. — A heavy earthen- 



bladed knife. A knife with wooden 
handle and blade an inch and a half 
wide can be purchased for fifty cents. 
A close-fitting tin cover with three or 
four perforations near the top keeps 
the dough in the bowl from forming a 
crust, and furnishes means of escape 
for gases. The favorite pan in this 
country for baking bread is about eight 
inches long, four inches wide, and three 
inches deep : two of these are required 
for baking bread made wdth two cups 
of liquid. Russia iron pans of French 
make, in which two or more long, 
round loaves are baked side by side, 
are occasionally used. Cylindrical pans 
with covers are seen on the market ; 
but bread is more wholesome when 
baked in an open pan. 




Oatmeal Biscuit. For recipe see page 239 



ware bowl holds the heat. It is easily 
cleaned, and with care will last a life- 
time. It should be used for no other 
purpose. The yellow ware is prefera- 
ble. For mixing the dough, no utensil 
is more easilv handled than a broad- 



Kneading the Dough. — When all 
the flour that is to be used has been 
added, and the ingredients have been 
thoroughly mixed, scrape the dough 
from the bow^l on to a moulding board 
lightly dredged with flour. Toss with 



Bread and Bread-making 



203 



the knife. Then with finger-tips lightly- 
floured bring forward the back of the 
dough, without pressing the fingers 
into it. Let the ball of the hand, 
just below the wrist, meet the dough; 
press down upon it, and move it 
backward ; then the tips again bring 
forward the back of the dough ; the 
ball of the hand meets it, and repeats 
the first process ; and so a new por- 
tion of dough is brought in contact 
with the hands at each downward 
pressure. Occasionally turn the dough 
half way around, to keep it in a 
roundish mass : continue this knead- 
ing process until the mass of sticky 
paste is a smooth, elastic, fine, and 
even-grained ball of dough. Add but 
little flour during this process, and 
keep the crust that is formed by 
kneading intact by keeping the dough 
in motion, and never allowing the 
finger-tips to penetrate it. The mass 
acquires "body" under the manipu- 
lation. When elastic and full of 
minute air-bubbles, it has been kneaded 
enough. 

Object of Kneading Dough. — 
Dough is kneaded the first time to 
distribute evenly the little yeast plants 
and other ingredients, to give body to 
the dough, and bring out the elastic- 
ity of the gluten, and to make the 
mixture smooth. The second knead- 
ing is to break up the large cavities 
caused by gas bubbles, and to make 
the texture uniform and fine. The 
length of time required for the first 
kneading depends somewhat upon the 
quantity of flour and shortening that 
is to be incorporated into the dough. 
The stiffer the dough and the richer 
the mixture, the longer the time re- 
quired to make it smooth and elastic. 
From fifteen to thirty minutes are re- 



quired. The second kneading should 
be of such length only as is needed to 
put the dough into the proper shape 
for baking. 

Temperature and Time for Rais- 
ing OF Bread. — As bacilli inimical to 
the proper growth of the yeast plants 
may be introduced into the dough in 
the milk or water, it is advisable to 
scald the milk or boil the water, and 
then let cool to a temperature not 
over 100 degrees F., before adding 
the yeast. While this may not kill 
bacilli present in the liquid, it retards 
their growth for the time being, and 
leaves the yeast plant in possession of 
the field. The taste and texture of 
bread are largely dependent upon the 
time given to rising. If the flavor and 
other characteristics associated with 
home-made bread be desired, they can 
be best secured by long, slow rising at 
a temperature a little below that of 
the living-room, or between 55 and 
60 degrees F. In winter, bread made 
with one-third a yeast cake to a pint 
of Uquid, and set at 8 p.m., may 
be left standing, in a room that in 
the course of an hour or two drops 
to the temperature given above, until 
seven in the morning. 

While, all things considered, a tem- 
perature of 68 degrees F. is prob- 
ably the most favorable for bread- 
making, the operation may be hast- 
ened by setting the bowl of dough 
in a pan of water that is kept just 
below 90 degrees F. 

When the dough has risen to about 
double its original size, it should be 
"cut down," cut and worked with 
a knife, to break up the bubbles of 
gas, and retard the fermentation. 
The '' cutting down " process may be 
repeated several times, to the improve- 



204 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ment of the bread, if the rising be not 
continued too long at any one time. 
If the fermentation be allowed to pro- 
ceed too long, the glutinous cell walls 
holding the gas become weakened, 
the dough loses its puffy, rounded 
appearance, and flattens, or "caves 
in," showing that the alcoholic fer- 
mentation has passed into the acetic. 
The bread will be sour. Often bread 
that does not reach this condition is 
subjected to fermentation too long; 
and too much of the goodness of the 
flour — probably of the gluten — is 
consumed by the yeast plants, and a 
dry, tasteless, chippy bread results. 
This is particularly the case with 
bread made of entire wheat flour. As 
a general rule, bread made with one 
cake of compressed yeast to a pint 
of liquid will double in bulk in three 
hours. About one hour is required 
for the second rising, after the bread is 
in the pans, and a fifth hour for 
baking. 

Shaping the Dough. — Knead the 
dough slightly, and divide it into the 
requisite number of pieces. When a 
round is desired, shape this with the 
hands and fingers, by folding over and 
patting, until no wrinkles are to be 
seen. If the dough was properly 
moulded in the first place, it will not 
stick to the fingers now. If it should 
stick, a little butter, not flour, is the 
remedy. If the dough is to be given 
a long, oval shape, the moulding board 
is needed. When doubled in bulk, the 
loaves are ready to bake. 

The Baking. — Yeast bread is 
baked to kill the ferment, — lest fer- 
mentation go on in the stomach, — to 
drive off alcohol, stiffen the gluti- 
nous walls, cook the starch, and form 
a pleasant-tasting crust. 



The yeast plant is killed at a tem- 
perature of 2 12 F. To raise the tem- 
perature at the centre of the ordi- 
nary loaf to this point requires nearly 
an hour's cooking in an oven heated, 
when the bread is put in, to about 
400 degrees F. ; that is, in a fast 
oven. Where the temperature of the 
oven is gauged by a "heat indicator," 
the index is just past the central mark, 
or twelve o'clock. The loaves in such 
an oven will rise a little, crust over, 
and brown slightly in spots during the 
first fifteen minutes. Biscuits and 
rolls require a hotter oven, and will 
bake in from twenty minutes to half 
an hour. A thick loaf of bread baked 
in the early morning is considered in 
good condition for eating by night; 
but it will be in better condition the 
next morning. Thin biscuits, if thor- 
oughly baked, are not as objectionable 
hot as slices from a thick loaf. Still, 
when thoroughly masticated, the di- 
gestibility of fresh (not hot) and stale 
bread is about the same. 

Care of Bread after Baking. — 
Remove the bread at once from the 
tins and let cool in fresh air, un- 
covered. Store, when fully cold, in 
a tight-covered stone jar. This should 
be washed, scalded, dried, and aired 
at least once a week. Never put cut 
slices into the jar, but keep this re- 
ceptacle free from crumbs. Never put 
a cloth into the jar with the bread. 

The Sponge. — A sponge in bread- 
making is a mixture of flour with 
liquid and yeast. It is usually made 
thin, and in consequence the fer- 
ment acts very quickly. A sponge 
is advisable for biscuits and all yeast 
preparations where much shortening 
is to be used, as it retards the ris- 
ing. 



i 



Flowers in Winter 



By E. M. Lucas 



*' Your voiceless lips, O flowers, are living 
preachers, 
Each cup a pulpit, every leaf a book, 
Supplying to my fancy numerous teachers 
P'rom lowliest nook." 

FLOWERS on the dining table 
have become as much a neces- 
sity as dainty napery and deli- 
cate crockery, and one might go 
further, and say as food itself. This 
sentiment was not born in this year 
of grace. Centuries ago Mohammed 
said, "He that has two cakes of 
bread, let him sell one of them for 
some flowers of the Narcissus ; for 
bread is food for the body, but the 
Narcissus is food for the soul." 

Perhaps it is as well here to ques- 
tion the value of flowers to us, lest 
without thought we deem as extrava- 
gant the expenditure of money for 
them. Each must answer for himself. 
No one can tell what a blossom is to 
another. Does a rose or lily suggest 
to you but form and color, or can you 
answer with Wordsworth : — 

" To me the meanest flower that blows can 
give 
Thoughts that do often lie too deep for 
tears " ? 

" Consider the lilies " was the ad- 
vice given a long, long time ago by 
One whose words of wisdom and love 
have echoed down the ages ; and, if 
our hearts are attuned in harmony 
with nature, we may still hear the 
vibrations. 

More and more flowers are becom- 
ing features of our homes, and taste in 
their use is improving. There are 



more plants blooming in pots. Fat 
bouquets of the cannon-ball type have 
given way to sprays of loosely ar- 
ranged flowers and foliage, that look 
happy and natural. Crowded flowers 
and complicated set pieces are in bad 
taste. A spray of blossoms in a clear 
glass vase is the acme of refinement. 
A single pot of daffodils suggests 
Nature in her sunniest moods ; and we 
exclaim with Ambrose Phillips, — 

*' At sight of thee my gloomy soul cheers up, 
My hopes revive, and gladness dawns within 
me." 

The same flower in a prim bouquet, 
wearing a stiff paper collar, is merely 
a mass of dying yellow. 

" But," groans the woman with the 
desire for blossoms, but without the 
finances to indulge her tastes, '' cut 
flowers and potted plants are so ex- 
pensive during late winter and early 
spring months." This state of affairs 
should not condemn her to a flowerless 
home. On the contrary, the woman 
who grows her own blossoms, noticing 
each stage of growth, has a joy un- 
known to her who buys cut flowers 
from a greenhouse. 

While some plants exact a long 
season of training to perfect bloom, 
others will bloom without this prelimi- 
nary treatment, and in a few weeks 
from the time of potting give flowers 
sweet as the breath of spring. This 
is true of the lily of the valley, that 
enchantingly pretty blossom, sugges- 
tive of all that is lovely and pure. 
Poets have not failed to express their 



ao6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



regard for this modest and simple and 
sweet blossom. Keats declares, — 

" No flower amid the garden fairer grows 
Than the sweet lily of the lowly vale." 

Nothing could be more effective for 
a centre-piece on the table than a flat 
green basket, — a green that will carry 
out the stem color of the flowers, filled 
with the slender racemes of the fragile 
and pale flow^ers, their exquisite purity 
and beauty of tone enhanced by a 
mass of broad, pale green, deeply 
nerved leaves. With care as to tem- 
perature, such a basket will delight the 
eye and gladden the heart for weeks ; 
for these blossoms are at home, roots 
and all, in the basket. 

There is little difficulty in bringing 
this plant to perfection, if good roots, 
or pips, are used. A business is made 
of raising these pips in Holland, and 
all the best stock comes from that 
source. They do not arrive in this 
country, usually, until the middle of 
November, and often it is later in the 
year ; but this is no objection, for the 
pips come when blossoms are begin- 
ning to be costly and they can be 
forced to bloom in a few weeks' time. 
Procure the pips from a reliable florist. 
Buy plenty : one can obtain a dozen 
good pips for forty cents. The little 
pips are very hardy, and start and 
grow better, if subjected to a stiff 
freeze. 

The following method of forcing 
valley lilies is practised by florists, 
but is not generally known to ama- 
teurs. Wrap each pip in moss, — any 
moss will do. Wet the moss thor- 
oughly, and place the pips out of doors 
where they may experience the effect 
of freezing weather. If the damp 
moss which surrounds the pips be 



frozen stiff, it is all the better. In a 
week bring them in. Put a layer of 
broken charcoal in the basket, pot, or 
box in which the pips are to bloom, 
cover with a thick layer of moss or 
sand, on this put the pips just as they 
are, and pack moss between each root. 
They should be about one inch apart, 
and let the tip of the pips just reach 
the surface. Cover with a piece of 
board, and allow to thaw out gradually 
in a cool room for two days. Bring 
to a warmer room, and give a position 
where they will get bottom heat. On 
the back of a kitchen range or over a 
register will do. Give tepid water 
once a day, and keep the basket or pot 
closely covered with an inverted paste- 
board box or a cap made of heavy 
wrapping paper. 

In about twenty days from the time 
of planting the buds will appear. Re- 
move the cover, and place the pots in 
a cool room at a window with good 
light, but no sunshine, where the leaves 
will grow stronger and taller, and take 
on a good color, and the flower stems 
will- lengthen and develop fully all their 
buds. Failure is courted by placing 
the pot in a sunny window and heated 
atmosphere, where the flower stalk will 
shrink and the leaves curl up. If the 
flower stalks do not seem to make a 
rapid growth, but are short and club- 
like, roll a bit of stiff paper into a cone, 
open at each end, and invert the cones 
over the flower stalks. In reaching up 
to the light, the stalk will lengthen it- 
self properly. Keep the pots or bas- 
kets in a cool place when not in use, 
that the flowers may retain their fresh- 
ness and beauty as long as possible. 
The pips may be started at different 
times, thus bringing them into bloom 
in succession. 



Suggestions for Home Nursing' 

By M. C. Limerick and L. R. Balderston 
Article No. 3 



BATHING.— The skin elimi- 
nates waste products through 
its pores. If the pores are 
not kept open, the kidneys and other 
eliminating organs are obliged to do 
extra work, and in time are likely to 
become diseased. A bath should take 
from fifteen to twenty minutes, not in- 
cluding the foot-bath. 

There are many kinds of baths : 
a general bath, given for cleanliness ; 
a local bath, given for some special 
trouble ; cold water, hot water, hot 
air, and vapor baths. 

Points to be remembered in Bath- 
ing — First. Have everything in readi- 
ness before beginning work. 

Second. Do not expose the patient 
to the cold by letting the blanket slip 
aside. 

Third. Do not wet too large a sur- 
face at once, and wipe the skin thor- 
oughly dry. 

General Bath, Preparation of 
Patient and Bed. — Double a blanket 
end to end. Push the upper bed- 
clothes toward the patient, lay the 
folded blanket on the cleared place 
and draw the bed-clothing over it, then 
move the patient on the folded blanket. 
Lay another blanket over the spread, 
and remove all the upper bed-clothing 
from beneath it. The patient is 
covered with this alone, if weather and 
temperature of the room are favorable. 
Remove night-dress. Use a soft 
Turkish or flannel wash-cloth and a 
good soap. If there be any odor, use 



toilet ammonia, alcohol, or borax, one 
teaspoonful to two quarts of water. A 
flannel cloth is desirable, because it 
retains the heat longer. Begin with 
the face and the neck. Wash under 
the arms well, and rub the flesh until 
perfectly dry. Next bathe the chest 
and abdomen, then arms and back, 
bathing lower extremities last of all. 
If patient needs rubbing, rub each part 
as it is bathed. Always put alcohol on 
your hands. In rubbing abdomen, 
give the upward movement on the right 
side then across and down on the left 
side. This movement sometimes helps 
constipation. Wash the lower part of 
the body, holding the blanket in one 
hand to avoid exposure. If patient is 
able, allow her to attend to the lower 
part of the body herself. If she is not, 
under no consideration omit to wash 
thoroughly. After the bed-pan has 
been used, the parts should be wiped 
with a damp towel. It is often 
a very great comfort to the patient 
to have her face and hands bathed 
in the morning before the nurse 
attends to her own toilet. This is 
often restful, if done several times a 
day, and especially so before meals. 
Do not allow the water for bathing to 
become cold, and change it once at 
least. 

When necessary, the nails must be 
cleaned and trimmed, usually once a 
week. A soft nail-brush can be used 
for hands every day. 

The Mouth. — The patient's mouth 



Copyrighted 1901 



208 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



must be attended to each day. It 
must be kept perfectly clean, and 
should be washed at least three times 
daily. Nothing is more refreshing in 
illness than a clean mouth and well- 
brushed teeth. If patient cannot have 
tooth-brush used, make a swab by 
tying a piece of cotton or linen over 
a small stick, making a groove around 
stick to hold cloth when tied. Equal 
proportions of lemon juice and glycer- 
ine is a good preparation to pour on 
the swab. Have a basin of clean 
water to wash swab in after using it. 
Wash patient's mouth three times a 
day, no matter what the illness may 
be. Never put the fingers into a 
patient's mouth. If a patient is on 
a milk diet, the mouth should be 
cleansed with water, with a little lis- 
terine in it, after each portion of milk 
has been taken. 

The Hair. — The hair should be 
attended to each day. Women's hair 
should be separated into two parts, 
and braided. If matted, begin at the 
ends and work gently, holding the 
strand firmly in the hand. If the hair 
is heavy, it is well to make four braids. 
Never have only one braid, no matter 
how light the hair may be, on ac- 
count of the pressure on the head. 
Braid loosely for one or two strands, 
then braid tightly. Brush as patient 
likes. A little rubbing with the fin- 
gers sometimes is restful. For this 
use half alcohol, and half water, and 
apply with a sponge or small cloth. 

Foot-bath. — Loosen the bed-cloth- 
ing at the foot of the bed. Place a 
towel, newspapers, or rubber sheet 
on the bed. Draw up the patient's 



feet toward her body, and place the 
tub under them. Put the feet in the 
water, cover with the bed-clothing and 
an extra blanket, to prevent the cold 
air getting in. Allow the feet to re- 
main in the water ten or fifteen 
minutes. If necessary to keep the 
water at a certain temperature, be 
careful to add hot water, and avoid a 
current of cold air. For a mustard 
bath, use one and a half teaspoonfuls 
of mustard. Mix with a little warm 
water, and add to a gallon of water. 
It is always better to give the bath in 
bed. If a patient is in such a con- 
dition that the knees cannot be drawn 
up, use a basin, and wash each foot 
separately. Sometimes this bath can 
be given by moving the patient to the 
side of the bed. In this case be care- 
ful to keep the legs well covered. 
Never be afraid to use water, even 
in rheumatism. A little alcohol added 
to the water will prevent the patient 
taking cold. If the patient should 
become chilly while the bath is being 
given, the nurse must stop at once, 
and apply hot-water bags or bottles 
filled wdth hot water. Always have 
plenty of hot water ready in case it is 
needed, and a plentiful supply of clean 
towels. If tfie nurse should have a 
cut or sore place on her hand, she 
should apply collodion before begin- 
ning bath. This forms a false skin. 
Do not keep stopper out of the bottle 
longer than necessary. 

Bath Temperatures. — A hot bath 
varies from 98 degrees to no degrees 
F. ; a warm bath, from 85 degrees to 98 
degrees F. ; a tepid bath, from 70 de- 
grees to 85 degrees F. 



Afternoon Tea in England 

By Julia D. Chandler 



AN English lady recently said 
that tea in America was a fad 
Lsoon forgotten or changed into 
an occasional reception where salads 
and ices are served ; while in England 
it is the invariable custom of the 
family to enjoy tea at a regular hour, 
either alone or with those friends who 
happen in. Choice tea, thin bread and 
butter, are served, to which a small dish 
of shrimp and watercress are favorite 
additions. Periwinkles, a small creat- 
ure like a snail, while far from elegant, 
are very nice. 

Cheese sandwiches also give variety 
and are economical, the dry cheese 
being grated and bottled for the pur- 
pose. Only now and then is cake 
placed on the tray. 



When the American librarians were 
invited to England three years ago, 
they were entertained by State and 
Church dignitaries, banqueted by lord 
mayors and lords who were not mayors. 
They also enjoyed informal teas in 
dear old gardens, and in the long 
English twilight afterward gathered 
flowers. 

At the luncheons of the lord mayors 
there was a great variety of sand- 
wiches made with potted meats and 
game. These accompanied number- 
less punches and claret-cups, and were 
served on silver dishes with' spikes 
like bill-stickers, each bearing the 
name, — pheasant, chicken, etc., — so 
that any one could easily select a 
favorite kind. 



Dat Valentine 

[Written for the Boston Cooking-school Magazine] 



By Kate M. Post 



Yis, I's done got a valentine. 

Laws ! ain't yo' seen it yit ? 
Wal, when yo' does, I reckon, 

'Tain't one dat yo'll forgit. 



Dar's gilt an' lace all roun' de adge, 

An' vi'lets an' a rose, 
An' a boy a-shootin' arrows, 

What's done forgot his clothes. 



" Dat's Cupid ? " Yo' done tell me dat ! 

I didn' rightly know. 
I's heard great talk about him, 

But ain't seen him befo'. 



De words I sca'cely kin make out ; 

But, den, I mos'ly know, 
Dat ef dey praise ma waffles, 

De valentine's from Jo. - . 



But, ef dey's jes' sweet sayin's 
'Bout vi'lets bein' blue, 

It come from dat fool nigga 
Dat wuuks fo' ole Miss Lu. 



Recipes from Public Demonstrations 



at the Boston Cooking- School 



Hominy Muffins 
To one cup of warm cooked hominy 
add one-fourth a cup of butter, one cup 
of scalded milk, three tables poonfuls 
of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
When lukewarm, add one-third a yeast 
cake dissolved in one-fourth a cup of 
lukewarm water and flour enough to 
make a stiff batter. Let rise over 
night. In the morning fill gem-pans 
to two-thirds their height. Let rise 
one hour, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Fried Oysters 

Let oysters heat to the boiling-point 

in their own liquor, then drain and dry 
between the folds of a towel. Season 
with salt and pepper, dip in flour, e^j 
and bread crumbs, and fry in deep 
fat. Drain on soft paper, and ser\-e 
on a folded napkin. Garnish with 
parsley and lemon. Serve at the same 
time 

Philadelphia Rehsh 

Mix two cups of shredded cabbage, 
two green peppers cut in shreds or 
finely chopped, one teaspoonful of 
celery seed, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
mustard-seed, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
one-fourth a cup of brown sugar, and 
one-fourth a cup of vinegar. 

Filling for Lemon Pie 
Mix three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
three tablespoonfuls of flour, and a few 
grains of salt. Add one tablespoonful 
of melted butter, three tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice, the grated rind of one 
lemon, and the volks of two es:2:s 



slightly beaten. Stir until thoroughly 
blended, then add seven-eighths a cup 
of milk and the whites of two ^gs 
beaten stiif. Bake with one crust 

Apple Tartlets 
Line indi\'idual tins with plain paste. 
Into each tin put two tablespoonfuls of 
sifted apple-sauce and over this half 
an apple cored and pared, or use 
sUces of apple, one overlapping an- 
other. Bake in a moderate oven until 
nearly done, then add a tablespoonful 
of syrup or apple jelly to each dish, 
and return to the oven until the apples 
are soft. Cool, and remove from the 
tins for serving. 

Tomato Bouillon with Oysrers 

Cook three pints of bouillon, one 
can of tomatoes, one tablespoonful of 
chopped onion, one bay leaf, six cloves, 
one teaspoonful of celery seed, and half 
a teaspoonful of peppercorns twenty 
minutes. Strain through a sieve fine 
enough to keep back the seeds. When 
cold, stir in' the crushed shells and 
slightly beaten whites of three eggs. 
Stir until boiling, then let simmer ten 
minutes, skim carefully, and strain 
through a folded cheese-cloth spread 
in a colander or sieve. Serve in bouil- 
lon cups with small parboiled 0}-sters 
and small croutons. 

Coffee Fritters 

Cut stale bread in finger-shaped 

pieces. Mix three-fourths a cup of 

coffee infusion, two tablespoonfuls of 

sugar, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt. 



Boston Cooking-School Recipes 



211 



one egg slightly beaten, and one-fourth 
a cup of cream. Dip the pieces of 
bread into the liquid, then " egg-and- 
bread-crumb " and fry in deep fat. 
Drain on soft paper at the oven door. 
Serve with 

Coffee Sauce 
Scald one cup and a half of milk 
with half a cup of ground coffee, and 
let stand twenty minutes. Strain, and 
add the infusion slowly to one-third a 
cup of sugar mixed with three-fourths 
a tablespoonful of arrow-root and a few 
grains of salt. Cook five minutes. 
Serve when hot. 

Vanilla Ice-cream with Coffee 
Sauce 
Mix three pints of thin cream, one 
cup and a fourth of sugar, and two 
tablespoonfuls of vanilla extract. 
Freeze, and pour over each service 
two or three tablespoonfuls of 

Coffee Cream Sauce 

Beat the yolks of three eggs slightly. 
Add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a 
few grains of salt. Pour on gradually 
one cup of clear strong coffee, and cook 
in a double boiler, stirring constantly 
until the mixture coats the spoon. 
Cool, and fold in half a cup of double 
cream beaten until thick. 

Newport Cake 
Cream one cup of butter. Add grad- 
ually one cup and a half of flour sifted 
with one teaspoonful of baking-pow- 
der. Beat the yolks of five eggs until 
lemon-colored and thick. Add grad- 
ually one cup and a half of powdered 
sugar, and slowly combine the two 
mixtures. Add the whites of five eggs 



beaten until stiff and one tablespoon- 
ful of brandy. Turn into a buttered 
cake-pan, and bake one hour in a mod- 
erate oven. 

Devil's Food 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Add gradually one cup of sugar. Beat 
the yolks of four eggs until lemon- 
colored and thick. Add one cup of 
sugar, and combine the two mixtures. 
Add, alternately, one cup of milk and 
two cups and one-third of flour sifted 
with four teaspoonfuls of baking-pow- 
der, two squares of melted chocolate, 
and the whites of four eggs beaten 
stiff. Bake in a tube pan in a mod- 
erate oven about forty-five minutes. 
Cover with 

Boiled Frosting 

Boil one cup of sugar and one-third 
a cup of boiling water, until the syrup 
threads. Pour on to the white of one 
egg beaten until foamy, but not dry. 
Add one teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat 
occasionally, until stiff enough to spread. 
Pour over the cake and spread evenly. 

Chocolate Fruit Cookies 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter. 
Add gradually half a cup of sugar. 
Cook together two tablespoonfuls of 
grated chocolate and one tablespoon- 
ful, each, of sugar and water until 
smooth. Beat into the sugar and 
butter. Add one egg well beaten, 
half a cup, each, of chopped nuts and 
seeded raisins, one cup of flour mixed 
and sifted with one teaspoonful of 
baking-powder and one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of salt. Roll into a thin 
sheet, stamp out into rounds, and bake 
in a moderate oven. 



Caution in Little Things 



A BEGINNER in the domestic 
realm complained frequently 
that the milk soured, but the 
milkman said with a pleasant decision 
that she was his only customer who 
found his milk unsatisfactory. An 
aunt quietly remarked that the milk 
was left on the doors.tep too long, and 
that it stood too long on the kitchen 
table after being taken in. As the 
young housekeeper still had trouble, it 
remained for an intelligent servant to 
give a needed lesson. 

** If you please, ma'am," she said, 
" you put the milk close to the salad 
dressing in the refrigerator; and of 
course, the sourness was catchin'." 

" Is that possible ? " asked the young 
mistress. 

'' Why, for certain, ma'am," replied 
the girl. " You never must put any- 
thing sour near the milk : it's always 
ready to * turn ' on the least excuse ; and, 
if either lemon juice, vinegar, or pickles 
be put too near, up gets the milk and 
resents it, gettin' sour for itself." 

A man given to making scientific 
experiments sniffed warily on entering 
his mother's kitchen. "There's noth- 
ing here that can be spoiled," the lady 
affirmed. " Last night at dinner we 
had an excellent piece of roast beef : 
it is in the cool pantry, and I intend 
having it sliced for lunch." 

" Then you'll be poisoned," rejoined 
her son ; and, going to the pantry, he 
showed her that the trouble arose from 
having allowed the beef to stand in the 
red dish gravy. ** Decomposition," he 
said, using plainly the distasteful word, 
"will often take place in a very few 
hours where meat that is rare is 



allowed to stand in the dish gravy. 
Your nice meat would have been all 
right to-day, had you put it on another 
platter, free from the gravy, the taint 
of which I recognized the moment I 
entered the kitchen." 

Another inexperienced housekeeper 
was annoyed at the speed with which 
her bread would have a musty taste. 

One day a neighbor saw her carefully 
washing out the tin chest in which 
her nice loaves were kept ; and, with 
true neighborly kindness, she said, 
laughingly : — 

" My dear, I'm afraid your bread will 
spoil." 

"Well, now, do tell me what I am 
doing wrong ! " exclaimed the younger 
woman. " My bread does spoil, and I've 
tried in vain to find out the reason." 

" In the first place," the neighbor 
replied, " your tin is not perfectly dry. 
Any moisture will produce a musty, 
mouldy taste in a very little while ; and, 
then, your bread is not cool enough to 
put away. I see you have wrapped 
it cautiously about with a portion of 
an old tablecloth, an excellent thing to 
do after the' loaves have cooled. I 
have often seen cooks wrap bread up 
in that way while warm, where it was 
to be eaten immediately ; but it is not 
the correct way to shut the steam in 
with a cloth. Let the bread cool, have 
your tin chest thoroughly dried and 
well aired, then wrap up the loaves in 
the soft cloth, and it will keep moist 
and perfectly sweet. Don't use the 
cloth long without washing it." 

" Such little things, and yet so im- 
portant ! " exclaimed the younger wo- 
man. — Selected. 



Selected Verse 



Evening brings us Home 

Upon the hills the -wind is sharp and cold, 
The sweet young grasses wither on the wold, 
And we, O Lord, have wandered from Thy 
fold ; 
But evening brings us home. 

Among the mists we stumbled, and the rocks 
Where the brown lichen whitens, and the fox 
Watches the straggler from the scattered 
flocks ; 
But evening brings us home. 

The sharp thorns prick us, and our tender 

feet 
Are cut and bleeding, and the lambs repeat 
Their pitiful complaints, — oh, rest is sweet 
When evening brings us home. 

We have been wounded by the hunter's darts ; 
Our eyes are very heavy, and our hearts 
Search for Thy coming : when the light de- 
parts 
At evening, bring us home. 

The darkness gathers. Through the gloom 

no star 
Rises to guide us : we have wandered far; 
Without Thy lamp we know not where we are. 
At evening bring us home. 

The clouds are round us, and the snow-drifts 

thicken. 
O thou dear Shepherd, leave us not to sicken 
In the waste-night: our tardy footsteps quicken; 
At evening bring us home. 
V Anonjymous. 



Pussy-willow 



Before the bluebird wings its way 
To northern glade and dell, 

There comes a dear and happy day 
When buds begin to swell. 

Perhaps they see (we know not how) 
Some secret beckoning sign, 

For soon on ever}- willow bough 
The silvery catkins shine. 

By singing streams so lately dumb 
The merrv children shout, — 



Oh, joyful news ! — " The spring has come ! 
The pussy-willow's out ! " 

Anna M. Pratt. 

The Bells of Shandon 

With deep affection and recollection, 
I often think of those Shandon bells. 

Whose sound so wuld would in days of child- 
hood 
Fling round my cradle their magic spells. 

On this I ponder where'er I wander. 

And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee. 

With thy bells of Shandon, that sound so 
grand on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee. 

I've heard bells chimin' full many a clime in, 
Tolling sublime in cathedral shrine. 

While at glib rate brass tongues would vibrate ; 
But all their music spoke naught like thine. 

For memory, dwelling on each proud swelling 
Of thy belfry knelling its bold notes free, 

Made the bells of Shandon sound far more 
grand on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee. 

I've heard bells tollin' old Adrian's Mole in. 
Their thunder rollin' from the Vatican, 

And cymbals glorious swinging uproarious 
In the gorgeous turrets of Notre Dame. 

But thy sounds were sweeter than the dome of 
Peter 
Flings o'er the Tiber, pealing solemnly. 
Oh, the bells of Shandon sound far more grand 
on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee. 

There's a bell in Moscow ; while on tower and 
kiosk, O ! 

In St. Sophia the Turkman gets, 
And loud in air calls me to prayer. 

From the tapering summits of tall minarets. 

Such empty phantom I freely grant them ; 

But there's an anthem more dear to me, — 
'Tis the bells of Shandon, that sound so grand 
on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee. 

Francis Mahoiiy. 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL CORPORATION 

Established 1879. Incorporated 1882, 

School : 372 BOYLSTON STREET. 



^oarij of Managers, IHOl. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEVVALL President. 

Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vice-President. 



directors. 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL. 
Mrs. THOMAS MACK. 
Mrs. GEORGE E. NILES. 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING. 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN. 
Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS. 
Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY. 
Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER. 
Miss MINNA TRAIN. 

Mrs. LINDZEE TILDEN. 
Miss ELIZABETH ROGERS. 
Miss EMILY GREENE, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MORRILL FARMER. 
( Miss MARIA W. HOWARD. 
Assistants, \^^^^^ MARIETTA McPHERSON. 

THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School Corporation. 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

JANET McKENZIE HILL Editor. 

BENJ. M. HILL General Manager. 

R. B. HILL Business Manager. 

Subscription, 50c. per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cookliig-School Magazine is sent until 
ordered discontinued, and arrearages are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date on which 
your subscription expires : it is, also, an acknowledgment 
that a subscription or a renewal of the same has been 
received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank enclosed 
for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription or change 
address, please give the tf/</ address as well as the 7tew. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know the 
name as it was formerly given, together with the Post- 
ofBce, County, State, Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Postage.— To all parts of the United States, Canada, 
and Mexico the postage is prepaid by the publishers, ex- 
cept m Boston. In making renewals, subscribers in the 
postal district of Boston are requested to add 12 cents to 
the subscription price to cover delivery charges. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



The Boston Cooking School 

Abstract of Directors' Annual Report 

THE school record for the past 
year continues to be good, 
with no appreciable loss in 
any of its departments. In the autumn 
an increase in attendance was marked 
in every line save that, perhaps, of spe- 
cial pupils. In the demonstration 
lectures, however, there is a gain of 
about fifty each over the correspond- 
ing months of last year, while the 
number of private classes is larger 
than it has ever been in former years. 
The greatest interest is manifested in 
the work of the normal class. The 
applications for admission to this class 
have been more numerous than ever 
before. In fact, the accommodations 
of the school quite fail to be equal to 
the demand in this department. 

The official report of the year's work, 
now closed, includes the details of work 
in demonstrations, private classes, spe- 
cial pupils, lectures to nurses at vari- 
ous hospitals, as well as to the med- 
ical students of Harvard College, and 
the instruction given to the normal 
class. 

Little change has taken place in 
methods of instruction, or in the policy 
of administration, in the school, the de- 
sire being to enlarge its sphere of use- 
fulness in such a manner as to incur 
no financial risk. It will be remem- 
bered that this school is, of necessity, 
self-supporting. 

The teaching force remains the same, 
with the exception of Miss Charlotte 
James Wills, now Mrs. Clark. For the 
place so long and ably filled by Miss 
Wills, Miss Marietta McPherson, a 
graduate of the class of '98, was 
chosen. 



Editorials 



215 



The Cooking- School Magazine con- 
tinues to prosper under the editorship 
of Mrs. Janet M. Hill. In January, 
1900, Mrs. Hill became second party 
to the contract that had been made by 
the school with the Pettingill Com- 
pany. The tenor of contract with Mrs. 
Hill remains identically the same as 
that which existed between the Pettin- 
gill Company and the school. 

Our president, Mrs. Sewall, has been 
able to attend very few of the monthly 
meetings of the board ; but her interest 
and influence have been felt at all 
times. Mrs. Bennett, vice-president, as 
acting president has manifested her 
steadfast devotion to the welfare of the 
school, in constantly visiting the several 
classes, and in a careful supervision of 
the entire work. 

Mrs. Everett Morss, Sec'y. 

THE attention of our readers 
is invited to the special ad- 
vertisement of the magazine 
to be found on another page of the 
present issue. The magazine's steadily 
growing circulation has ever been a 
source of pride and gratification to the 
management. Still, we are naturally 
desirous of adding new names to our 
list, aiming thereby to improve the 
quality and enlarge the usefulness of 
the publication. It is our purpose in 
no respect to practise sensational 
methods, nor are we prepared to of- 
fer large or fanciful prizes, to induce 
agents to place on our list large num- 
bers of temporary subscribers. We 
aim to reach the prudent housekeeper, 
those who are actually interested in 
the ordinary, every-day affairs of the 
home, who wish to know not only the 
best that has been thought and said 
on the several phases of housekeeping, 



but also the most efficient and practi- 
cal ways to attain certain definite 
results. And may we not assume that 
the interests of the earnest, progressive 
home-maker everywhere and our own 
are mutual ? 

In a measure, then, at least, we 
would grow in excellence and useful- 
ness through the instrumentality of 
our readers. And, if our present sub- 
scribers would avail themselves quite 
generally of our offer, — namely, to 
renew their own subscription for one 
yediV free of charge on receipt of two 
7iew subscriptions for one year, — our 
circulations, and with it our means of 
improvement, would increase rapidly, 
indeed. No better offer than the 
above can reasonably be made by this 
or any publication, and no means of 
expansion can be more satisfactory. 
That many of our subscribers may be 
pleased to avail themselves of the op- 
portunity thus presented, we suggest to 
them that they make a careful examina- 
tion of this number of the magazine, 
with a view to a representation to 
friends ; and we refer them again to our 
proposition as it is stated elsewhere. 

AT the beginning of a new 
/ \ year we are accustomed to 
jL, JL review the past and make 
good resolutions for the future. The 
dawn of a new century is an hundred- 
fold less usual occurrence. Civilized 
man may well boast of his achieve- 
ments in the century now past. The 
good old times were good only in 
their day. As it has been said, " we 
have not to go far back to learn when 
kings and queens were worse fed 
and clothed and housed than a ser- 
vant is nowadays." 

But what may happen in the next 



2l6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



hundred years who can tell ? Among 
the many and striking achievements 
which a writer in the Ladies' Home 
Journal says, according to the predic- 
tions of the most learned and con- 
servative minds, may be brought to 
pass before the close of the present 
century, these are noted : " A century 
from now the population of America 
and its possessions will be five hun- 
dred millions. Trains will run two 
miles a minute, or a hundred and 
fifty miles an hour. Electric ships 
will cross the ocean at the rate of a 
mile a minute. Automobiles will be 
cheaper than horses. The farmer 
will turn winter into summer and 
night into day, and the most lus- 
cious fruits and vegetables will be 
grown by electricity." But, of especial 
interest to the housekeeper, this is the 
climax : — 

" Ready-cooked meals will be bought 
from establishments similar to our 
bakeries of to-day. They will pur- 
chase materials in wholesale quantities, 
and sell the cooked foods at a price 
much lower than the cost of individual 
cooking. Food will be served hot or 
cold to private houses in pneumatic 
tubes or automobile wagons. The 
meal being over, the dishes used will 
be packed and returned to the cooking 
establishments, where they will be 
washed. Such wholesale cookery will 
be done in electric laboratories rather 
than in kitchens. These laboratories 
will be equipped with electric stoves 
and all sorts of electric devices, such 
as coffee-grinders, egg-beaters, stirrers, 
shakers, parers, meat-choppers, meat- 
saws, potato-mashers, lemon-squeezers, 
dish-washers, dish-dryers, and the like. 
All such utensils will be washed in 



chemicals fatal to disease microbes. 
Having one's own cook and purchas- 
ing one's own food will be an extrav- 
agance. 

" No foods will be exposed. Store- 
keepers who expose food to air 
breathed out by patrons or to the 
atmosphere of the busy streets will be 
arrested with those who sell stale or 
adulterated produce. Liquid-air re- 
frigerators will keep great quantities of 
food fresh for long intervals." 

Chimerical as all this doubtless 
seems, yet, if the prophecies be fully 
realized, the gain to life and comfort 
would be scarcely less marvellous than 
that which has been made in the past 
age. At any rate, progress in science 
and art and in the standard of living 
is the condition of prolonged existence. 
" When growth ceases, disintegration 
sets in." Would that advancement in 
all that pertains to household eco- 
nomics, '' the science of the relation 
between efforts and satisfactions for 
the household" might be the marked 
feature of this the twentieth century ! 



Were half the power that fills the world with 
terror, 
Were half the wealth bestowed on camps 
and courts, 
Given to redeem the human mind from error, 
There were no need of arsenals or forts." 

Longfellow, 



It is a maxim, as ancient, I believe, 
as the time of Hippocrates, that what- 
ever pleases the palate nourishes. And 
I have often had reason to think it 
perfectly just. Could it be clearly 
ascertained and demonstrated, it would 
tend to place cooking in a much more 
respectable situation among arts than 
it now holds. — Count Rumford. 




After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 




T T E must leave the omniscience of business at the door when he comes into the palace 



of beauty." 
" Sit at our fireside : we only wdden the circle for you." 

AT the beginning of the Christian 
/ \ era, hospitality was enjoined as 
i m. a sacred duty. Timothy enu- 
merates among the attributes of a bishop 
that he " must be a lover of hospital- 
ity." The laity also are exhorted by 
him to " use hospitality one to another 
without grudging." In those days, 
when inns did not abound, and the 
traveller could not readily procure food 
and shelter, an indiscriminate enter- 
taining of guests must have been often- 
times a tax on courtesy. 

But, as times changed, invitations 
began to precede and become warrant 
for the acceptance of hospitality ; and 
the old-time duty was gradually trans- 
formed into a flattering expression of 
personal favor. For trust and confi- 
dence in one whom you invite into the 
presence of your lares are implied. 



Eating is a chief and natural concern 
of life. It is, moreover, a pleasure ; 
and she who charges herself with the 
entertainment of a guest becomes re- 
sponsible, in a measure at least, for his 
temporary comfort and happiness. 
Like all other pleasures, that of the 
table is increased as it is shared ; yet 
those who are bidden to break bread 
together should be congenial spirits. 
There needs be some common ground 
upon which all can meet. It is Mon- 
taigne who says that a roan is not so 



much to regard what he eats as 



with 



whom he eats ; and he commends Chilo 
" that he would not engage himself to 
be at Periander's feast till he first was 
informed who were to be the other 
guests." The sequence is natural ; for, 
when one entertains another, and eats 
and drinks with more deliberation than 
is customary, — hygienic considerations 
to the contrary, — the hour needs be 
filled with "good discourse and pleas- 
ant talk." This it is that best gives 
relish to a feast. 



Having bidden, then, congenial com- 
pany to meet at her table, the hostess 
must needs give attention to the food 
that is to supply the mental and physi- 
cal wants of her guests. As no one 
course must be drawn out to unseemly 
length, so no one subject of conversa- 
tion should engross too much attention. 
Then, too, the discourse, like the dishes 
in the menu, must be such as will be 
appreciated by the company. Same- 
ness, which engenders weariness, needs 
be avoided ; and controversy must never 
be admitted. Upon the hostess de- 
volves largely the duty of keeping the 
conversational ball rolling briskly back 
and forth, to the end that each guest 
may take his turn without apparent ef- 
fort or seeming premeditation. Truly, 
the hostess plays no inconsiderable 
part in a successful evening's drama ; 



2l8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and, certainly, to cultivate and refine 
one's taste, to learn how to lose one's 
self in the stud}^ of what is pleasing to 
others, has its influence in the forma- 
tion of character. 

The menu provided for the *' refec- 
tion " of the physical body, while it 
should be in harmony with the environ- 
ments and enlivened by the judicious 
introduction of little surprises, needs 
not to be ornate or extravagant. 
" Flamingoes from Sweden, game from 
Africa and South America, and pears 
from Assyria" are not called for. 

Within the past twenty-five years 
times have changed. The '' decline of 
the kitchen " has become an assured 
fact ; and the dweller in a flat, be it in 
Paris, New York, or the suburb of a 
more unpretentious city, should not 
seek to assay the impossible. The vast 
and seemingly boundless resources of 
the country that once were and made 
lavish providing possible exist no 
longer. An elegant simplicity, enough 
and no more, neither ostentation nor 
profusion, mark the choicest entertain- 
ments of the present day. Perfect 
cookery, immaculate surroundings, and 
dainty service, each stamped with the 
hall mark of the individual hostess, will 
exemplify the ideal to be sought for 
by the hostess of the new century. 

And how can one make better prep- 
aration for the more formal function 
than at the home table ! Here are 
others to please, and those that may 
not always be in the frame of mind to 
be easily satisfied. Yet, if children 
even be given a handsome, well-ap- 



pointed table, they will almost intui- 
tively understand the incongruity be- 
tween this and soiled hands or mis- 
conduct. So the well dressed man, 
woman, or child, is naturally compla- 
cent and at ease in any company. 
But to become well dressed and well 
fed, — that is another matter. 

" Keeping up appearances " may be 
considered vulgar ; but within rightful 
limits does it not indicate a prime es- 
sential to successful attainment ? In 
the matter of behavior, for instance, if 
one wishes to appear refined and ami- 
able, does he not make an effort to 
he as well as seem amiable and refined ? 
The very recognition of what is seemly 
is the first step toward its attainment. 

^^'ith the decline of the kitchen and 
life in apartments, grand functions and 
state occasions are being left grad- 
ually to those who possess spacious 
homes and unlimited means. But the 
spirit of hospitality is not dead, only 
its outward forms are put upon a more 
simple and genuine basis. 

Having eliminated from domestic 
affairs much that is superfluous, and 
having gained a broader knowledge of 
what constitutes the art of living, the 
housekeeper of the future will dis- 
pense her income and time to greater 
advantage than she has done in the 
past, and her hospitality will subserve 
more than a single end. Nor shall its 
leading feature be confined to the 
"women's luncheon," on which occa- 
sion "the family " needs find entertain- 
ment or shelter abroad until the dread 
hour of the function has passed. 




" Hunger ist der Beste Koch'' 



Seasonable Recipes 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of 
such material. 



Vegetable Stock for Soup 

Cut two pounds of onions (about 
one dozen) and two pounds of carrots 
(three or four carrots) into slices. Add 
half a head of celery cut in pieces, 
three sprigs of parsley, and one table- 
spoonful of thyme and marjoram 
mixed, and saute' in the soup-kettle in 
two cups of vegetable oil or drippings, 
until of a delicate brown color. Add 
five quarts of water, two tablespoonfuls 
of salt, one teaspoonful of peppercorns, 
four cloves, and one quart of dried 
peas, or beans that have been soaked 
over night. Let boil once, then simmer 
three or four hours. Strain, let cool, 
remove the fat, and use as any stock. 

Poached Oysters on the Half- 

' shell 
Butter as many scallop shells as 
there are individuals to serve. Put into 



each shell about six oysters with their 
own liquor, and sprinkle with salt, 
pepper, tomato catsup, and a drop of 
tabasco sauce. Scatter a few bits of 
butter here and there on the oysters, 
and set the shells in a hot oven. Serve 
on doily-covered plates as soon as the 
oysters look plump and the edges curl. 
Put two or three toast points in each 
shell or serve with brown-bread sand- 
wiches. 

Cream Toast with Cheese 
Sprinkle hot toasted bread thickly 
with grated cheese, and set in the oven 
until the cheese melts. Pour over hot 
cream or white sauce made with milk, 
and serve at once. A beaten ^g'^ may 
be added to the sauce if desired. 

Macaroni au Gratin 
Cook three-fourths a cup of maca- 



120 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Lari^e Fish I'russed to Boil 

roni, broken into inch pieces, in rapidly 
boiling water, until tender. Drain and 
rinse. Make a cup of cream sauce, 
season with onion, if desired, and stir 
in half a cup of grated cheese and the 
macaroni. Turn into a baking-dish and 
cover with half a cup of cracker crumbs 
stirred into two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter. Serve when the crumbs are 
browned. Substitute tomato sauce for 
the cream sauce, or add the beaten 
yolks of two eggs to either sauce for a 
vegetarian dish, when eggs are included 
in the dietary. 



Fresh Fish Boiled 

Lower the fish, fastened in an up- 
right position, if whole, on a fish rack 
or sheet, or coiled in a frying basket, 
or tied in a piece of cheese-cloth, into 
warm liquid, and bring quickly to the 
boiling-point, then let simmer until the 
fiesh separates readily from the bones, 
no longer. After simmering begins, 
it will need cook from five to eight 
minutes a pound, according to the 
thickness of the fish. Let the liquid 
just cover the fish. Add a tablespoon- 
ful of salt and a tablespoonful of 
vinegar or lemon juice to each two 
quarts of water, or milk and water, or 
court bouillon. L^se the liquid in mak- 
ing the sauce. When the fish is 
cooked, let drain over the kettle. Dress 
with great care on a folded napkin that 
will absorb liquid. Garnish plentifully 
with fresh parsley or cress. Serve with 
HoUandaise, Bechamel, or drawn butter 
sauce. Eggs, oysters, lobsters, or pickles 
may be added to any of the sauces. A 




Fish a la Creme with Potato Border 



Seasonable Recipes 



221 



fish kettle with rack is of great con- 
venience in draining and removing fish 
whole and shapely to the platter. If 
the fish be longer than the kettle, it 
may be trussed as in the half-tone ; and 
it will remain in an upright position. If 
lying at full length, it needs be tied to 
the rack. 

Fish a la Creme with Potato 
Border 

Prepare a duchess potato mixture, or 
use plain mashed potato, well seasoned 
and beaten. Shape the potato into a 
wall on a serving-dish that will bear the 
heat of the oven. Roll part of the potato 
into small balls, and set them close to- 
gether on the top of the wall. Brush 
over the potato with the yolk of an egg 
beaten slightly, diluted with a table- 
spoonful of milk and strained. Have 
ready an equal bulk of cold cooked 
fish, flaked, and white sauce. In mak- 
ing the sauce, use fish stock or milk, or 
half and half. Add any egg left after 
brushing over the potato. Put alternate 
layers of sauce and fish inside the wall, 
and cover the top with half a cup of 
cracker crumbs mixed with one-fourth 
a cup of melted butter. Set the fish 
in the oven over hot water about ten 
minutes, or until the crumbs and 
potatoes are delicately browned. 

Fillets of Fish, Ambassador 

Style 
Remove the fillets from two or three 
small flounders, or from a haddock or 
cod weighing between three and four 
pounds, and cut into small pieces. 
Put the head and trimmings, an onion 
and half a carrot, sHced, a stalk of 
celery, sprig of parsley and thyme and 
six pepper-corns, over the fire in water 
to cover. Let boil, then simmer about 



an hour ; drain off the broth and set 
aside. Put the pieces of fish in a 
gratin dish, sprinkle with salt and 
lemon juice, add tw^o or three table- 
spoonfuls of water, and cook ten or 
twelve minutes in the oven. Then 
cover with a sauce made of three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls 
and a half of flour, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt, one cup of the fish 
stock, and one-fourth a cup of cream. 
Flavor with one teaspoonful of essence 
of anchovy and the juice of half a 
lemon. Sprinkle over the sauce four 
tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan 
cheese (or use American cheese) and 
return the dish to the oven to melt the 
cheese. Decorate the dish with a 
circle of bread crutons (fried) dusted 
with more of the cheese. 

Salt Codfish in Egg Cups 

Let salt codfish, picked in bits (not 
shredded), stand over night or some 
hours in cold water, then drain and 
wring out all the water. To each 
fourth a cup of fish add half a cup of 
cream or thin white sauce and a beaten 
egg. Turn into a buttered cup, egg 
shirrer, or poacher, and cook standing 
in hot water until nearly firm. The 
water should not boil. Serve in the 
cup or turned from them, as desired. 




Forequarter of Mutton, boned, steamed, and 
ready to brown in the oven 



222 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Forequarter of Mutton Steamed 

Remove the bones from a forequar- 
ter of lamb or mutton, and spread out 
skin side down. Dust with salt, pepper, 
and powdered sweet-herbs ; roll tightly 
into compact shape, and fasten with 
twine. Cover the bones wdth cold 
water, and when hot put in the meat 
and let simmer until tender. Score out- 
side in squares, brush with egg yolk, 
sprinkle with crumbs, and brown in the 
oven. Cook a slice of onion, two 
slices of carrot, and a sprig of parsley 
in one-fourth a cup of butter until well 
browned. Add one-fourth a cup of 
browned flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt and a dash of pepper, and, when 
frothy, add gradually two cups of the 
broth from which the fat has been 
taken. Let boil, then simmer ten min- 
utes, and strain. 

Medallions of Mutton with Pea 

Salad 

Remove the bones and fat from 

lamb or mutton chops, and skewer the 

meat in rounds. Braise the meat with 



over with liquid aspic. Serve cold with 
peas dressed with French dressing. 
If preferred, retain the rib bones, and 
decorate them with a paper frill before 
serving. 

Brown Chaudfroid Sauce 
To a cup of highly seasoned brown 
sauce add the yolk of an egg diluted 
with one-fourth a cup of cream and a 
scant tablespoonful of gelatine softened 
in three tablespoonfuls of stock. Use 
when cold, but still liquid. 

"Hot-pot" Mutton 

Cut two pounds and a half of mut- 
ton from the fore-quarter into pieces 
for serving. Brown these in a little 
hot fat, after dredging them lightly with 
flour. Cut six potatoes in slices, one- 
fourth an inch thick, and parboil five 
or six minutes. Cut an onion in slices, 
and parboil ten or fifteen minutes. 
Put a layer of meat in a casserole, add 
a layer of potato and onion, and con- 
tinue the layers until all the ingredients 
are used. Season each layer with salt 




Medallions of Mutton with Pea Salad 



the bones and fine-cut vegetables un- 
til tender ; cool under a weight, cover 
with brown chaudfroid sauce, decorate 
with white and yolk of egg, and brush 



and pepper. Have the last layer of 
potato, and put them in so that one slice 
slightly overlaps another, like shingles. 
Add a few bits of butter and cook 



Seasonable Recipes 



223 



covered, about three hours, in a very 
slow oven. Remove the cover for the 
last half-hour so as to brown the 
potato. 




Mortar and Pestle for making 
Forcemeat 

Shells of Chicken (Quenelle 
Forcemeat) 

Remove the white meat from a young 
fowl or turkey, scrape the flesh from 
the fibre and pound in a mortar, adding 
meanwhile the unbeaten white of an 
egg a little at a time. Pass through a 
puree sieve having about twelve holes 
to each linear inch. Measure the pulp, 
and for each cup, allowing for the 
white of egg, add half a cup of pan- 
ada, one-third a cup of butter, either 
the whites or yolks of two eggs, accord- 
ing to the color preferred, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of mace, and salt and 
pepper as desired. In making force- 
meat with a larger quantity of pulp 
than one cup, note that the proportion 
of egg is three halves of egg to one 
cup of meat or iish pulp measured after 
it is pressed through the sieve. In the 
above recipe one white is added to the 



pulp in the mortar, as by this means it 
is pounded and pressed through the 
sieve more easily. Mix the ingre- 
dients together thoroughly and press 
again through the sieve, then beat in 
very gradually one cup of cream. 
Press the mixture into well-buttered 
shells sprinkled with fine-chopped pars- 
ley, ham, or truffles, set them on a thick 
folded paper, pour water around the 
shells, and poach in the oven about 
twenty minutes. Press part of the 
forcemeat on to a buttered paper, 
forming small quenelles. Put the 
paper, quenelle side down, in a sauce- 
pan of water "just off the boil," and 
let poach ten minutes. Skim from the 
water, and add, with small rounds cut 
from slices of cold boiled tongue or 
dark meat of fowl, to a cup of sauce 
made of chicken stock and cream, 
thickened with flour and the yolk 
of an egg. Dress the shells crown 




Puree Sieve and Wooden Spoon 

fashion on a serving-dish, with the 
quenelles and sauce in the centre. 

Bread Panada 
Soak white bread free from crust in 



224- 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cold water to cover, until well softened. 
Then turn into a napkin and press out 
the water. Add milk or white stock. 
Cook and stir, until a paste is formed 
that clings together and leaves the 
sides of the pan. 



tender. Drain out the celery, strain 
the liquid, and remove the fat. Use 
the liquid with more stock, if needed, 
in making a cup and a half of sauce. 
Pour this over the celery, and serve 
garnished with parsley. 




Shells of Chicken Forcemeat with Quenelles, etc. 



Jerusalem Artichokes 

Wash and scrape the desired num- 
ber of artichokes. Cover with boiling 
salted water and cook until tender 
(about half an hour), drain, dust with 
salt, and set on the back of the range 
to evaporate the moisture. Serve 
with melted butter or with white or 
Bechamel sauce. 

Celery with Sauce 
Trim away the outside leaves of 
three heads of celery, cut the roots to a 
point, and trim off the tops of the stalks, 
leaving the heads six inches in length ; 
wash and blanch ten minutes in boil- 
ing water, drain, cover with cold water, 
and wash carefully. Tie the heads in a 
bundle and put in a stesv-pan with 
a pint and a half of boiling stock or 
water, or half of each. Add one-fourth 
a cup of fat from the top of stock, half 
a carrot, half an onion, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a few grains of cayenne, 
cover, and let simmer two hours or until 



Barlev Bread 

To two and one-half cups of hot 
mush, made of barley crystals, add 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, and two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, cottolene, or lard. When 
lukewarm, add one-third to three whole 
yeast cakes softened in half a cup of 
lukewarm water, and wheat flour to 
knead. Finish as any bread, bak- 
ing the loaves in F^rench bread-pans. 
Mush made from other breakfast ce- 
reals may be substituted for the barley. 

Stuffed Onions 

Cook ten or twelve onions in salted 
water, changing the water twice, about 
an hour or until nearly tender ; drain 
and cool. Take out the centre of each 
onion without disturbing the outside 
layers ; to this add six mushrooms, 
saute'd five minutes in butter, chop 
fine, add half a cup of bread crumbs 
and cream or white sauce to mix ; sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and butter, and 



Seasonable Recipes 



225 



fill the open space in the onions with 
the mixture. Put in a buttered bak- 
ing-dish, sprinkle the top with three- 
fourths a cup of cracker crumbs stirred 
into a fourth a cup of melted butter, 
and bake about twenty minutes, bast- 
ing carefully with a little butter and 
hot water. 

Cheese Bouchees. 

Bake small patties of puff paste, 
having them about an inch and a half 
in diameter. When ready to serve, 
reheat and fill with the following cheese 
preparation. Sprinkle the top of the 
cheese with fine-chopped parsley and 
replace the cover (piece of paste cut 
out to form the pattie or the centre 
removed after the pattie was baked). 
Serve very hot as a "savory," either at 
the beginning or end of dinner. 

Cheese Cream for Bouchees 
Let half a cup of Bechamel sauce 
(white sauce with chicken stock and 



stand over hot water until the cheese 
is melted, then beat thoroughly, and 
serve at once as filling for bouchees. 

Indian Tapioca 
Mix together one-third a cup of 
quick-cooking tapioca and one-fourth a 
cup of Indian meal, and sprinkle into a 
quart of scalded milk. Stir and cook 
until the tapioca becomes transparent. 
Add one cup of molasses, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and turn into a but- 
tered baking-dish. Pour over the top a 
cup and a half of cold milk, set into 
the oven without stirring, and bake 
about an hour. 

Apples Baked with Almonds 
Core and pare six or eight tart 
apples, let simmer in a cup, each, of 
sugar and water boiled together two 
or three minutes until nearly tender. 
Turn the apples often to avoid break- 
ing. A little lemon juice added to the 




Apples Baked with Almonds, Garnish of Jelly 



cream, half and half, as the liquid), half 
a cup of cream, a few grains of paprika, 
and one-fourth of a pound of Cheddar 
or Gruyere cheese, sliced very thin, 



syrup will improve the flavor, or, if 
the apples be rubbed with the cut side 
of a lemon, it will help keep them 
white during the cooking. Set the 



226 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



apples in an agate pan, and press into 
them almonds blanched and split in 
halves. Dredge with powdered sugar 
and brown in the oven. Ser\e hot 
with jelly or whipped cream. 

English Pudding 
Cream half a cup of butter, add one 
cup of stoned and cut raisins, a cup 
each of molasses and sweet milk, and 
three cups and a half of flour sifted, 
with one teaspoonful of soda and a 
teaspoonful of mace, cinnamon, and 
clove, mixed. Steam in a buttered 
mould three hours. Serve with hard 
sauce. 

Candied Orange Peel 

Let the peel of the oranges cut in 
halves soak in strong salted water 
about three days. Drain and repeat 
three times. Cover with cold water, 
let boil, then drain, and repeat if the 
peel tastes salty. Drain thoroughly 
on a sieve. Make a syrup of a pound 




Basket of Candied Orange Peel holding 
Bonbons 

of sugar and a pint of water, skim, 
and in it simmer one pound of peel 
cut in narrow^ strips until it is tender 
and transparent and the syrup nearly 
absorbed, then boil rapidly, and stir 
until well coated with sugar. Let dry 
a little in the oven, and put aside ; or 
weave the strips, when hot and pliable, 
into small baskets in which bonbons 
may be served. If the thin-skinned 
Tangerine or Messina oranges be 
used, soaking in salted water is un- 
necessary. 




Orange Bavariose. See Query 435 



Menus for One Week in Lent. jHarcf) 



Diet cures more than the doctor. — Orion. 



'^rea.kfa.st 

Barley Crystals, Butter or Cream. 

Cream Toast with Cheese. 

Poached Oysters on the Half-shell. 

Cereal Coffee. 

^nner 

Split Pea Soup. 

Haddock, Stuffed and Baked. 

Onions in Cream Sauce. 

Mashed Potato. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Lemon Sherbet. Cookies. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Health-food Bread and Butter. 

Apple Tartlets. Cocoa. 



^Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat, Cream. 

Poached Eggs, Black Butter. 

Saratoga Corn Cake. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce and Fish Salad. 

Entire Wheat-bread Sandwiches. 

Lemon Jelly with Nuts. 

Tea. 

^nner 

Potato Soup, Entire-wheat Bread Sticks. 

Macaroni and Cheese Croquettes. Tomato Sauce. 

Lettuce, Lima Bean, and Pimento Salad. 

(French Dressing with Onion Juice.) 

Chocolate Custard Cake. 

Black Coffee. 



"BreakUst 

Quaker Oats, Cream, Sugar. 

Puffy Omelet. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 



Luncheon 
Split-pea Soup, Croutons 
Evaporated Peaches, Stewe 



Neufchatel Ch 



Split-pea Sou] 

" " '' ^'ea<_ucft, oiewec 
leese. Hominy Muffins. Tea. 

^nner 

Clam Bouillon (canned). 
Haddock Rechauffee with Potato. 

Tomato Custard. 

Watercress Salad. 

Baked Apples with Almonds, Cream. 

Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Ralston Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Broiled Finnan Haddie. 

Potatoes in Cream Sauce. 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Tomato Jelly moulded with Eggs. 

Lettuce, Boiled Dressing. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Indian Tapioca Pudding. Cereal Coffee. 

dinner 

Tomato Soup, Oatmeal Sticks. 

Welsh Rarebit or Golden Buck. 

Spinach Salad, Mayonnaise. 

Pineapple Sherbet. Cake. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp, Syrup, Cream. 

Salt Codfish in Egg Shirrers. 

Vitos Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Buttered Lima Beans (dried or canned). 

Oatmeal Bread and Butter. 

Fig Pie. 

Tea. 

"THnner 

Cream of Celery. 

Haddock Baked with Oysters. 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Boiled Potato Balls. 

Lettuce Salad. Cheese Bouch^es. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Gluten Grits. Baked Apples, Cream. 

Scrambled F.ggs. French Fried Potatoes. 

Hominy Muffins. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Sliced Oranges. Edam Cheese. 

Muffins. 

Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Cream of Spinach, Croutons. 

Salted Salmon, Boiled, Egg Sauce. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes. 

New or Canned Beets. 

Queen of Puddings. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Rolled Wheat. 

Stewed Figs, Cream. 

Eggs in the Shell. 

Baked Potatoes. 
Popovers. Tea. 



Luncheon 

Salmon in Cream. 

Toast. 

Apple Pie. 

Neufchatel Cheese. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons. 

FriedOysters,PhiladelphiaRelish. 

Macaroni au Gratin. 

Orange Jelly, 

with sections of Orange. 

Black Coffee. 



Menus for Family of 17. 

{$^ per Bay for Food.) 

The smell of it [hot mutton pasty] was enough to make an empty man thank God 
for the room there was inside him. — Lorna Doom. 



< 

CO 



< 
o 



< 

CO 

W 

H 



'=Breakf2Lsi 

Vitos, Stewed Peaches, Milk (top of the can), 
(i) Eegs in Shell. (2) Salt C9dfish Balls. 



Slice of Bacon. 
White Bread. 



Commeal Muffins. 
Cereal Coffee. 



'TXnner 

Stewed Chicken (Fowl), Potatoes. 

Macaroni with Tomato and Cheese. 

Canned String Beans. Cole Slaw. 

Frozen Custard. 

Plain Cake with Currants. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Oyster Soup. Browned Crackers. 

Cranberry Sauce. Gingerbread. 

Weak Tea or Milk. 



'Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Stewed Apricots, Milk. 

Chopped Ham in Cream Sauce. 

Toast, Poached Eggs. 

Muffins. 

Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Scalloped Tomatoes. Macaroni with Cheese. 

Cup Custards. Cookies. 

Cereal Coffee. 

'J)inner 

Beef Broth with Barley (canned) . 

First 3 Ribs from Fore Quarter of Beef, Roasted. 

Turnips Cooked with Meat. Mashed Potato. 

Apple Sauce. Lettuce (4 heads). 

Baked Indian and Tapioca Pudding. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Gluten Grits, Baked Apples, Milk (top of the can). 

Eggs Scrambled with Bits of Chicken. 

Potatoes Creamed. 

Toast. Quick Buckwheat Cakes. Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Kornlet Soup. 

Entire Wheat Rolls, Butter. 

One Orange. 

^nner 

Roast Leg of Mutton (Two required). 

Potatoes Browned with the Meat. 

Succotash (Dried Beans and Com). 

Boiled Rice with Parsley. Celery. 

Stewed Prunes with Lemon Jelly. 

Cereal Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat. 

Broiled Fish (Fresh or Salt). 

Baked Potato Cakes. Entire Wheat Muffins. 

Oranges. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cold Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Canned Strawberry Beets, Vinegar. 

Bread and Butter. Indian Suet Pudding. 

Cocoa. 

THnner 

Beef Stew, Bread and Butter. 

C el ery-and- apple Salad. 

Fig Ice-cream (Junket). Cookies. 

Weak Tea (if desired). 



breakfast 

Ralston Breakfast Food with Raisins, Milk. 

Cold Boiled Ham. Baked Potatoes. 

Milk Toast or Fried Rice, Home-made Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cream of Celery 

(Chicken Giblets, etc.). 

Bread and Butter. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, Milk. 

'TXnner 

Mutton Croquettes, Canned Peas. 

Baltimore Samp with Parsley. 

Baked Bananas (i each). Cabbage Salad. 

Corn-starch Pudding, Chocolate Sauce. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Milk. 

Creamed Celery with Poached Eggs. 

Toast. Doughnuts. Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Split-pea Soup, Croutons or 

Chopped-ham Sandwiches and Cereal Coffee. 

Bread Pudding with Jelly and Meringue. 

Bananas (if desired). 

"LXnner 

Boned Fillets of Haddock Baked 

with Oysters. Oyster Sauce. 

Mashed Potato. Buttered Parsnips. 

Bread-and-cheese Custard. Cole Slaw. 

Canned Pears. Cookies. 

Cereal Coffee (if desired). 



"Breakfast 

Old Gristmill Rolled Wheat 

with Dates, Butter. 

Boston Baked Beans 

(cooked over night) . 
Radishes. Cornmeal Muffins. 

Cocoa. 



Luncheon 

Scalloped Haddock and Oysters. 

Bread and Butter. 

Stewed Tomatoes 

(Canned) . 

Apples. 

Cereal Coffee (if desired). 



"Dinner 

Sirloin Steak. 

Buttered Lima Beans (dried). 



Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Celery Salad. Bread and Butter. 

Canned Peach and 

Tapioca t adding. 

Cereal Coffee. 



Concerning the Menus 



Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine : 

Dear Madam, — Can I supply the food 
for a family of seventeen, of which thir- 
teen are school-boys, for $5 per day, giv- 
ing a roast or poultry daily at dinner and 
fresh meat for breakfast? 

A problem like the one suggested by 
the question above is most difficult of 
solution. Here the item of expense 
must be strictly limited, and yet 
strength on the part of the boys to ac- 
complish well the tasks in hand must 
be assured. In other words, each in- 
dividual must be fed to secure proper 
physical development and power to 
accomplish a certain amount of pre- 
scribed mental work. And, besides, 
the caterer is apt to be handicapped 
by the preconceived and often foolish 
ideas in regard to food and food 
values which school children bring 
with them from their homes. Fre- 
quently, too, healthy appetite for plain, 
wholesome food is wanting. The lat- 
ter condition is more common in case 
of girls. It is due perhaps, in part, to 
sedentary life in ill-ventilated rooms ; 
and it may be fostered, also, by the 
habit of nibbling at dainties and con- 
fectionery, for which means are pro- 
vided from indulgent homes. In her 
"Provisional Standards" Mrs. E. H. 
Richards gives the cost of living for 
students, officers of institutions, etc., in 
groups of fifty to one hundred, as vary- 
ing from fifteen to twenty-five cents per 
day. This is exclusive of tea, coffee, 
condiments, or luxuries of any kind. 
For the smaller number indicated 
above the rate would be higher. The 
solution of a simple sum in arithmetic 
gives conclusive answer to the ques- 
tion. 



In speaking of " The Food of 
School-children and Students " the 
same writer, who has made a scientific 
study of these subjects, says : — 

"A child of twelve to fifteen re- 
quires as much food in actual weight 
as a person in the prime of life, at fifty 
to sixty, and only a little less than 
a hard-working man. Insufficient 
food at these ages causes more seri- 
ous consequences than at a later 
period." And in reference to the 
cost of the food she says : " Sufficient 
and nutritious luncheons can be fur- 
nished to the pupils of a large school 
for from three to five cents each ; but 
from our present knowledge it would 
require about a ten-cent luncheon to 
satisfy the taste of the American 
scholar." 

Considering that the luncheon calls 
for one-fourth of the outlay for the 
day, it follows that forty cents would 
be required to provide for the three 
meals of the day ; and, in actual prac- 
tice, at least a fifteen-cent luncheon 
or supper will be found to be expected 
by school-children who are away from 
home. 

Twenty-nine cents a day for an in- 
dividual's food, — the price suggested 
in the query, — almost, but not quite 
enough,- — is a very tantalizing amount 
to deal with, and particularly so when 
a liberal and rather choice dietary is 
demanded. From thirty cents to one 
dollar per day for each individual is 
the sum usually deemed necessary to 
make proper provision for a table of 
this class. 

Though the daily roast and fresh 
meat for breakfast are impracticable, 



230 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and well-nigh impossible at the rate 
suggested, they may be varied to the 
advantage of the purveyor and with- 
out loss to the consumer. It is well 
known that palatability and digesti- 
bility are closely allied, also that an 
inexpensive piece of meat may be 
made so palatable that it is fully as 
digestible and nutritious as a high- 
priced though perhaps carelessly pre- 
pared roast. Again, it is well known 
that the digestibility and assimilation 
of food depend largely upon a reason- 
able variation in the kind of food pre- 
sented. Physiologically, proteid mat- 
ter, a necessity in every dietary, but 
doubly so where growing children are 
concerned, is more economically ob- 
tained from animal than from vege- 
table foods ; but the latter must not be 
discarded. 

The food materials suggested in our 
menus can probably be supplied for 
about forty cents per day for each in- 
dividual. In actual practice this sum 
may be cut down somewhat ; but grow- 
ing boys, especially on half holidays, 
will consume an amount of food that 
is almost fabulous. But, if free oppor- 
tunity be given for outdoor exercise, 
even cheap homely fare, once having 
been tasted and not found wanting, is 
not likely to be passed by a second 
time unless the appetite has become 
depraved. 

Beef stew made with care, the flavor 
of no vegetable predominating, and all 
fat removed, if served occasionally, 
should be a favorite. The best results 
are secured when it is served the day 
after making. 

The removal of skin and bone from 
the haddock gives two large fillets. 
These baked, with oysters rolled in 
butter and cracker crumbs between, 



and carefully dished, are sightly and 
most appetizing. After dressing the 
fillets set aside in a marinade until the 
hour of cooking, and the flavor will be 
improved. Finally, in a jmatter of this 
nature, all things depend upon the 
cook. The same bill of fare in the 
hands of a skilled and an unskilled 
cook may be made as different as 
black and white. It is the interpreta- 
tion of a menu that tells. 

The Lenten Menus 

On account of the heavy work the 
kidneys are called upon to do in the 
elimination of the waste products 
evolved so abundantly from a dietary 
rich in flesh, the custom of refraining 
from meats for a season cannot be re- 
garded otherwise than as a step con- 
ducive to health. Likewise the dinner 
of fish on Fridays may be commended 
for the same reason. 

In February and March frozen 
salmon brought overland from Oregon 
is purchasable. Let thaw in cold water, 
then cook at once. Lobster is des- 
tined, it seems, to be high in price. 
In this connection we are reminded of 
Cowper's little poem to his friend, Mrs. 
Newton : — 

Cocoanut naught, 

Fish too dear, 
None must be bought 

For us that are here. 

No lobster on earth 

That ever I saw 
To me would be worth 

Sixpence a claw. 

So, dear Madam, wait 

Till fish can be got 
At a reasonable rate, 

Whether lobster or not, — 

Till the French and the Dutch 
Have quitted the seas, — 

And then send as much 
And as oft as you please. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in 
general, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must 
reach us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to 
appear. In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. 
Address queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cookhig-School Magazine, 372 Boylston 
^ Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 427. — Mrs. M. F. S., Bedford, 
Mass. : " Kindly tell just how to make 
shirred eggs, and how they are served." 

Shirred Eggs 
Break an egg into a buttered cup, 
set the cup in hot water into the oven, 
and cook until the yolk is set. Serve 
in the cup. The cup may be lined 
with bread crumbs mixed with cream 
and seasoned before the ^gg is put 
into it. Cover the top of the ^gg with 
more of the mixture, and cook as be- 
fore. 

Query 428.— Mrs. H. H., New York 
City : " Kindly give a recipe for Mocha 
cream with sugar instead of syrup." 

Mocha Cream with Sugar 
Wash the salt from a cup of butter 
and beat to a cream. Add gradually 
two cups and one-half of powdered 
sugar, and coffee extract to taste. 



Query 429. — Mrs. C. E. S., Brooklyn, 
N.Y. : " Recipes for Graham muffins, 
smooth and creamy inside, Graham gems, 
and Yorkshire pudding." 

Graham Muffins 

See general rule for muffins, page 

68, August-September issue. Use one 

cup, each, of Graham and pastry flour. 

Probably a more " creamy " muffin 



can be made, if the materials be put 
together in the same fashion as a 
cake mixture. Namely, cream one- 
third a cup of butter, add one-fourth 
a cup of sugar gradually, then one 
^%g beaten light, and, alternately, three- 
fourths a cup of milk and one cup, 
each, of pastry and Graham flour sifted 
with three level teaspoonfuls and one- 
half of baking-powder, and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Bake in hot buttered 
gem-pans about twenty-five minutes. 
More milk may be needed. The mixt- 
ure should be of the consistency of 
a drop batter. Half a teaspoonful 
of soda and two level teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar, instead of the baking- 
powder given, will insure a muffin of a 
finer and more even porosity. 

Graham Gems 

Sift together two cups of Graham 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Beat 
the yolks of two eggs, add one cup 
each of milk and water (or two cups 
of milk), and two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, and stir into the dry 
ingredients. Add the whites of two 
eggs beaten dry, and bake in very 
hot buttered gem-pans about half an 
hour. 



232 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Yorkshire Pudding 
Sift together half a teaspoonful of 
salt and one cup and a half of pastry 
flour. Stir in gradually one cup and 
a half of milk so as to form a smooth 
batter. Then add three eggs beaten, 
without separating, until thick and 
light, and turn into a hot gem-pan, 
after brushing the inside with the 
dripping from roast beef. Bake nearly 
half an hour. After the pudding is 
well risen, baste with the fat from the 
roast beef. Serve around the roast. 
Set the gem-pan into a dripping-pan 
before basting. The pudding may 
also be baked in a small dripping-pan, 
and cut in squares for serving. 



Query 430. — Miss A. M., Columbia, 
S.C., sends the two following recipes that 
were called for some months ago : — 

Rich Taylor Cakes 

Twelve ounces of sugar, five ounces 
of cottolene, five eggs, one cup of 
milk, one quart of molasses, one ounce 
of ground cinnamon, thirty ounces of 
flour, and half an ounce of soda. 
Beat the cottolene to a cream, add 
the sugar and cinnamon, then add 
the eggs well beaten, the molasses, 
milk, flour and soda sifted together. 
Drop the dough by the tablespoon- 
ful on to buttered baking-pans, and 
bake in a moderate oven. By meas- 
ure the ingredients are, one cup and 
a half of sugar, half a cup and a 
level tablespoonful of cottolene, two 
level tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, seven 
and one-half cups of flour, and a 
level tablespoonful of soda. 

Pecan or Peanut Sticks or Balls 

Boil molasses, until it hardens when 
tried in cold water. Add a little butter 



and vanilla extract and shelled pecan- 
nut meats or peanuts to make quite 
thick with nuts. With buttered hands 
form into balls two or three inches in 
diameter, or pour into a buttered pan, 
and, when slightly cool, cut into strips 
with a knife wet in hot water. The 
sticks may be curled around a rod if 
wished. In the recipe for pecan sticks 
previously given the omission of the 
flour was intentional, as no flour is 
used. 

Query 431. — Mrs. E. E. P., Zanesville, 
Ohio : " Kindly give the proportions of 
the ingredients for making macaroons of 
almond paste." 

Ingredients for Macaroons 
We have had good results in using 
the proportions given in the printed 
directions that come in each package 
of almond paste. The following pro- 
portions have also been found satis- 
factory : half a pound of almond paste, 
the whites of three eggs, and three- 
eighths a pound of powdered sugar. 
Work together the paste and sugar. 
Add the whites of the eggs gradually, 
and work until the mixture is smooth. 
Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in a 
slow oven, if liked dry ; less time and 
in a quicker oven, if preferred moist. 



Query 432. — Mrs. H. M., Boston, 
Mass : " Kindly tell how and with what 
to serve the Canton ginger that comes in 
jars ; also, what are the best charcoal 
broilers." 

Canton Ginger 

Canton ginger is very acceptably 
served with any ice with which the 
flavor combines or contrasts agreeably. 
After the ice has been passed, pass 
the ginger cut in suitable pieces, and 
surrounded with the syrup. Serve 
from a small cut glass or china dish, or 



Queries and Answers 



•^33 



from the jar in which it came, resting 
on a doily-covered plate. Carefully 
clean the outside of the jar, but do 
not remove the wicker covering. This 
ginger chopped fine and mixed with 
the syrup is also added to ices : sher- 
bet, cream, or mousse. The flavor of 
lemon harmonizes best with ginger. 
A ginger Bavarian cream is also made 
with this ginger. 

Charcoal Broilers 
The Bliss charcoal broiler is the 
only charcoal broiler, with which we 
are familiar, that can be used upon any 
stove connected with a chimney, and 
either with or without a fire in the 
stove. 

Query 433. — Mrs. R., Boston : '« Recipe 
for compote of French chestnuts." 

Compote of French Chestnuts 
With a sharp-pointed knife slit each 
chestnut shell across one side. Cook 
a minute in boiling water, drain well, 
and let dry. Add a teaspoonful of 
butter for each pint of nuts, and stir 
and shake over the fire three or four 
minutes. Then remove the shell and 
skin together. Keep the nuts covered 
with a thick cloth, as they shell better 
when hot. Soak the shelled nuts in 
cold water to cover, to which is added 
a little citric acid, or a larger quantity 
of lemon juice, seven or eight hours. 
This is to harden the nuts, that they 
may not break in pieces while cooking. 
A quantity of acid about equal to the 
size of a shelled nut may be used with 
each pint of shelled nuts. The acid is 
harmless; but, if more be used, the 
taste will be noticeable. The nuts are 
in the best condition for preserving 
in syrup or as glace nuts, when they 



are first gathered in the fall. They 
dry out very quickly, and then are 
likely, to fall in pieces while cooking. 
After soaking the chestnuts in the acid 
water, drain, and cover with plenty of 
boiling water. Let boil. Then cook 
about two hours with the water barely 
quivering at one side of the pan. When 
sufficiently tender, drain, and cover with 
a syrup made of sugar and water, each 
equal in weight to the weight of the 
nuts, and a piece of a vanilla bean. 
Keep hot without boiling two hours. 
Drain off half the syrup, reduce about 
one-half, pour over the nuts, and keep 
hot one hour. Drain off all the syrup, 
strain, and reduce a little, and, when 
cold, pour over the nuts. If the syrup 
sugars when cold, add a little hot water, 
let boil, and use cold. 



Query 434. — L. W., Saratoga Springs, 
N.Y., and Mrs. E. E. P., Zanesville, Ohio: 
" Recipe in detail for marrons glaces 
made from French or Italian chestnuts." 

Marrons Glaces 

Prepare the chestnuts as for the 
compote above. Dry the nuts, then 
take them one by one on a skewer, 
and dip into sugar and water that has 
been cooked to 340 degrees. Lay the 
nuts on an oiled paper to cool. Re- 
move the syrup from the fire as soon 
as the thermometer registers the 
proper number of degrees. If it be- 
comes too cold, let stand in hot water. 



Query 435.— Mrs. W. G. W., Pitts- 
ford, N.Y. : "Recipes for orange bavari- 
ose and orange compote." 

Orange Bavariose 
Let one-fourth a package of gelatine 
soften in one-third a cup of cold water, 
and dissolve by standing over the tea- 



234 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



kettle, or in hot water. Strain into one 
cup of orange juice and pulp, without 
seeds or pith, the juice of half a lemon, 
and three-fourths a cup of sugar. Stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, then 
set into ice-water and stir, until the 
mixture begins to thicken. Then fold 
in the whip from one pint of thin 
cream or from one cup of thick cream 
diluted with one cup of milk. Turn 
into a mould lined with lady fingers or 
sections of orange. If the mould be 
lined with lady fingers, serve with an 

Orange Compote 
Remove the skin and white pith 
from the oranges, and cut each orange 
into three slices crosswise. Remove 
the seeds and pith from the centres. 
Make a syrup of a cup of sugar, a cup 
of water, and the juice of half a 
lemon. In this cook the slices of 
orange until tender, turning them 
often to retain the shape. When ten- 
der, remove from the syrup. Boil this 
until quite thick, then pour over the 
slices of orange. 



Query 436. — Mrs. C. A. M., Cam- 
bridge, Mass. : " Recipe for old-fashioned 
pan dowdy and for the German Apfel 
Kuchen." 

Pan Dowdy 
Place a half-inch layer of pie apples, 
pared and sliced, in a buttered baking- 
dish. Sprinkle with sugar and a few 
grains of salt. Add a layer of cracker 
or bread crumbs. Alternate the layers 
of seasoned apples and crumbs until 
the dish is filled, having the last layer 
of crumbs. Bake an hour. Serve 
with cream or rich milk. A juicy 
apple is needed. Rhode Island green- 
ings used to be considered the best for 
this dish. 



" Apfel Kuchen " (Plain) 
Prepare as pan dowdy, adding to 
each layer of apples, sugar, pieces of 
butter, and fruit jelly. When half 
baked, pour over the cake one cup of 
sour cream, the yolks of four eggs, 
one-third a cup of sugar, and one- 
fourth a cup of grated almonds, mixed 
together. Then finish the baking. 
Pastry may be used as a lower crust. 
Sprinkle with grated bread crumbs, 
put in the apples, cover with strips of 
pastry to form lattice-work, and bake 
in a rather quick oven. 

Mannheim "Apfel Kuchen" 

Prepare a cake dough of three 
ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, 
five eggs, lemon peel, and half a pound 
of flour. Turn into a buttered baking- 
dish, sprinkle with grated bread, and 
cover thickly with slices of apple. 
Pour over the sour-cream preparation 
given above, and bake in a slow oven. 



Query 437. — Mrs. L. W. A., Austin, 
Tex.: "Kindly state some simple means 
by which an old carpet may be freshened 
in appearance." 

To brighten an Old Carpet 

After the carpet has been thoroughly 
swept, wipe over with a cloth wrung 
out of ammonia and water. Use from 
one to four tablespoonfuls of ammonia, 
according to strength, to a gallon of 
lukewarm water. 



Query 438.— Mrs. G. M. P., Pough- 
keepsie, N.Y. : " Recipe for coloring fluids 
for jellies, creams, etc, ; also for chocolate 
cake, in which both the cake and filling 
are creamy." 

Fluids for Tinting Food 

We are unable to give recipes for 
" coloring fluids " that may be kept 
on hand for use as occasion arises. 



Queries and Answers 



'^3S 



Several brands put up by reputable 
dealers may be found at the grocers or 
druggists. These are inexpensive and 
harmless. 

Chocolate Cake 

Ingredients for a large cake : one 
cup of butter, two cups of sugar, four 
eggs, one cup of milk, three cups of 
flour, two level teaspoonfuls and one- 
half of baking-powder, and one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract. The creamy 
texture of a cake depends as much on 
the manner of mixing as upon the 
recipe. (See article on Cake, October- 
November issue of this magazine.) 
Cakes made with yolks of eggs wdll 
keep creamy and moist much longer 
than those in which whites alone are 
used. 

Snow Cake (for Chocolate Layer 
Cake) 

Three-fourths a cup of butter, two 
cups of sugar, half a cup of milk, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract, two cups 
and one-half of flour, half a teaspoonful 
of soda, three level teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar, and the whites of eight 
eggs. 

Chocolate Filling 

Mix one-fourth a cup of flour with 
one-fourth a cup of granulated sugar. 
Stir into three-fourths a cup of hot 
milk, and cook ten minutes, stirring 
often. Beat one Q;gg, and add gradually. 
Melt an ounce and a half of chocolate, 
dilute with the hot mixture, stirring 
until smooth, then stir into the rest of 
the mixture, and set aside to cool. 
Wash the salt from a cup of butter, dry 
thoroughly, beat to a cream, and add 
gradually one cup of powdered sugar. 
Then beat in gradually the chocolate 
mixture and a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. 



Boiled Chocolate Frosting 

Boil two cups of sugar, half a cup of 
milk, and two squares of chocolate 
five or six minutes after boiling begins. 
Stir constantly while the sugar and 
chocolate are melting. When cooked 
to the soft-ball stage, gradually beat 
into the w'hites of two eggs beaten until 
very foamy, but not dry. Set into ice- 
water, and beat occasionally until cold, 
then use as filling and frosting. 



Query 439. — Miss : "Recipe for 

individual, rolled, German pancakes." 

German Pancakes 
Mix one cup of flour, one-fourth a 
cup, each, of sugar and melted butter, 
half a cup of pounded macaroons, three 
whole eggs and three egg-yolks. Beat 
with an egg-beater, diluting meanwhile 
to the consistency of batter with cold 
milk. Cook in an omelet pan, first 
on one side, then turn and brown 
the other side. Remove from the pan 
and spread lightly with preserves, 
jelly, or marmalade ; roll one by one, 
arrange on a baking-sheet, sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and glaze in a 
very hot oven. Pare the ends, and 
serve in a circle around a mound of 
preserves. 

Plain Pancakes (German) 
Make as above, using three fourths 
a cup of flour, a little salt, three eggs, 
and about a pint of milk. 



Query 440. — Miss I. Y. H., San Jos^, 
Gal. : » Recipes for a diabetic using saccha- 
rine and gluten flour." 

Cheese Wafers with Gluten 
Chop one-fourth a cup of butter and 
half a cup of grated cheese into one 
cup of gluten flour. Add half a tea- 



i^G 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



spoonful, each, of salt and paprika, two 
tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and 
the yolks of two eggs. Mix well, and 
roll out into a thin sheet. Cut in 
rounds or squares, sprinkle with grated 
cheese, and bake in a quick oven. 

Nut Wafers with Gluten 
Substitute the meats of English wal- 
nuts or pecan nuts for the cheese 
used in the dough, and press a half 
meat into the top of each wafer. Bake 
as before. All mixtures made of 
gluten are more palatable when fresh. 

Cocoanut Cakes with Gluten 
Beat one egg. Add half a cup of 
sweet milk in which fifteen saccharine 
wafers have been dissolved, and three 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Stir 
in three-fourths a cup of gluten flour 
into which one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
soda and a level teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar have been sifted, also one cup 
of fresh grated cocoanut. Drop from 
a spoon, making small cakes. Bake in 
a quick oven. 

Creamed Oysters in Gluten 
Cases 

Parboil a pint of oysters, drain, and 
keep hot. Make a sauce with two 
tablespoonfuls, each, of crude gluten 
flour and butter and half a cup, each, 
of oyster liquor and cream. Season 
wdth salt and pepper, add the oysters, 
and turn into gluten muffins, from 
which the crumb has been removed 
and the crust buttered and browned in 
the oven. Serve at once. A little 
fine cut celery, cooked until tender, may 
be added with the oysters. To make 
the cases, cut out a piece from the oval 
side of the muffin, after trimming the 
other side to stand level. Brush the 



cases inside and out with melted butter, 
and make crisp in the oven. 



Query 441. — Mrs. A. C. G., Jefferson- 
ville, Ind. : " Please give directions for 
preparing and cooking mushrooms, also 
a recipe for cream of asparagus." 

Preparation and Cooking of 
Mushrooms 

Discard all worm-eaten or stale- 
looking mushrooms. The stems, be- 
ing more fibrous and less tender than 
the caps, are often chopped, saute'd 
in a little butter, and used to flavor 
a dish in which the caps are not used. 

Champignons a la Algonquin 

Have ready in a baking-pan as 
many rounds of stale bread as mush- 
rooms. Remove the stems from the 
mushrooms, peel the caps, and saute 
' them in a little hot butter. Put a cap on 
each round of bread, gill side up. Put 
an oyster on each mushroom and a bit 
of butter on each oyster, and dust the 
whole with salt and pepper. Bake in 
a hot oven until the oysters look 
plump. Serve with a sauce made of 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and 
flour, salt and pepper, and half a cup, 
each, of chicken stock and cream. 

Mushrooms Cooked under 
Glass 

Saute one-fourth a pound of peeled 
mushroom caps in a tablespoonful of 
butter. Season with one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt and a dash of 
pepper. Add half a cup of thin 
cream. Cover, and let simmer until 
the cream is somewhat reduced. 
Then arrange on a round of bread 
in the dish, and pour the liquid over 
them. Cover with the glass made 



Queries and Answers 



237 



for the purpose, and bake about 
twenty minutes in a slow oven. An 
agate dish and a large jelly glass 
may be used, provided the special 
dish with glass be not at hand. 
Send the mushrooms to the table 
covered with the glass. 

Stewed Mushrooms 
Prepare and begin to cook as in the 
preceding recipe, but add a whole 
cup or more of cream. Then let 
simmer very gently twenty minutes. 
Serve with crackers, sippets of toast, 
or puff paste. Add brown or white 
sauce instead of cream, if desired. 

Cream of Asparagus 
Cut the tips from a bunch of as- 
paragus, and cook until tender in 
salted boiling water. Skim from the 
water and place in the soup tureen. 
Cook the rest of the asparagus in 
the same water, adding more if 
needed, and, when tender, press 
through a sieve. For each pint of 
pulp and liquid cook together one- 
fourth a cup each of butter and flour. 
Dilute gradually with a pint of white 
stock or milk, and cook ten minutes. 
When ready to serve, add the pulp and 
the yolk of an egg beaten and diluted 
with half or a whole cup of cream. 
Let heat over hot water, then pour 
over the tips in the tureen. 



Query 442.— L. S. F., Catskill, N.Y. : 
" Recipes for hashed brown potatoes and 
gluten bread." 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 

Chop six cold boiled potatoes very 

fine, adding half a teaspoonful of salt 

and a dash of pepper. Put one-fourth 

a cup of fat into the frying-pan, and, 



when hot, put in the potatoes, and 
heat quickly and thoroughly. Press 
into one side of the pan to form an 
omelet. When well browned, drain 
off the fat and turn on to a dish. 
Fat tried out from salt pork is con- 
sidered the best. 

Gluten Bread 
Make a sponge with three cups of 
lukewarm milk or water, one cake of 
compressed yeast softened in half a 
cup of the water previously given, 
and one pint of sifted gluten flour. 
When light, add one quart of sifted 
gluten flour, two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and, if agreeable, two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Knead until 
the dough is smooth and elastic, 
and, when light, shape into two 
loaves. Bake in a slow oven about 
one hour. 

Query 443. — Miss I. T. von H., San 
Josd, Cal. : '• Kindly give name of book 
containing recipes for diabetics." 

Cook Book for Diabetics 
Longmans, London, published in 
189 1 "Cookery for the Diabetic," 
by W. H. and Mrs. Poole. A second 
edition was published in 1898. The 
price in this country is one dollar. 



Query 444. — Mrs. L. C. N., Lowell, 
Mass. : " When the evening meal is 
supper rather than dinner, in which 
course should sauce or preserves be 
served ? Is tea served with the salad 
or the dessert? Kindly give a few sup- 
per menus for use in entertaining." 

Preserves and Tea in Supper 

Menus 
Cranberry sauce, spiced currants, 
and similar confections are served 



238 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



with the meat dish as a first course; 
quince and sin:iilar preserves or 
canned fruit with wafers, sponge, or 
plain butter cake accompanying the 
last or sweet course. Tea is served 
at the beginning, being replenished as 
needed, or it is served with the sweet 
course. Coffee is preferable, when oys- 
ters or fish are served. 

SUPPER MENUS 



Coffee throughout the Meal. 

Creamed Oysters au Gratin. 

Cold Tongue, Sliced Thin. Blocks of Aspic. 

PiM Olas. 

Fresh (not hot) Biscuit. 

Sponge Cake, Sliced Oranges. 

II. 

Tea throughout the Meal. 

Shells of Chicken Forcemeat. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Mayonnaise of Celery and Nuts. 

Quince Preserves, Cream, Wafers, 

III. 

Cream of Asparagus, vBread Sticks. 

Cold Turkey, Sliced Thin, 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Bread and Butter. 

White Cake, Canned Pineapple, 

Tea. 



Query 445. — Mrs. A. E. K., Mont- 
gomery, Ala. : " Give recipe for what 
you consider the finest sandwiches or 
canapdes. In a recipe that I use for 
canapdes, two tablespoonfuls of tarragon 
vinegar, twelve anchovies, four ounces of 
butter, four eggs, and seasonings to two 
pounds of ham, the bread softens too 
much, and the mixture does not stick to 
the bread. What is the trouble ? " 

Canapees and Sandwiches 
The foundation of a canapee is one 
bit of bread fried in fat or buttered 
and browned in the oven. Canapees 
are served hot or cold, either as a 
savory or an appetizer, before the first 



course at a dinner or luncheon, and 
sometimes, but not frequently, as a 
savory morsel at the close of dinner. 
Sandwiches are made of two pieces of 
stale bread with a filling between 
them. In making either canapees or 
sandwiches the mixture from which the 
article receives its name will cling or 
stick to the bread more closely, if the 
bread be first spread with butter that 
has been creamed, so that it will spread 
easily. In creaming the butter, add 
spinach pressed through a cloth, a few 
drops of tarragon vinegar, etc., for a 
change. As to the finest sandwiches 
and canapees, it is a matter of individ- 
ual taste. 

Lobster Canapees 

Cut out diamonds, hearts, or rounds 
of bread one-fourth an inch thick and 
two inches in diameter. Spread with 
butter, and brown in the oven. When 
cold, spread with a layer of "green 
butter." Upon this spread smoothly 
a layer of lobster meat pounded in a 
mortar with butter, pressed through a 
sieve, and seasoned with a little pa. 
prika. Above this place a heart leaf 
of lettuce. Above this a thin slice of 
beet-root, shaped with a cutter. Set 
on the serving dish, and force a star of 
mayonnaise upon the centre of the 
beet-root. Thoroughly chill before 
serving. For the " green butter " : to 
a quarter a pound of creamed butter 
add gradually the pulp of six boned 
anchovies, a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls 
of fine-chopped capers, and spinach to 
tint. 

Ham and Egg Sandwiches 
Pound together in a mortar half a 
cup of lean cooked ham and two table- 
spoonfuls of fat ham, chopped fine, 



Queries and Answers 



239 



one-third a cup of butter, and two 
tablespoonfuls of cold Bechamel or 
white sauce. Pass through a sieve. 
Add the sifted yolks of four cooked 
eggs, half a teaspoonful of mustard 
prepared with tarragon vinegar, a 
generous teaspoonful of fine-chopped 
capers, and, if desired, a few drops 
of onion juice. Anchovies, although 
used in many meat dishes, should be 
restricted to dishes prepared from fish. 
Spread upon buttered bread prepared 
for sandwiches, and press two pieces 
together. Serve without delay. 



Query 446. — Mrs. A. H., Harlem, 
N.Y. : " Why is a goose washed on the 
outside with hot soap suds ? What is the 
weight of chickens one, two, and three 
years old, etc. ? " 

Washing Goose with Soap 

Geese, being very oily, become ex- 
ceedingly grimy when exposed for sale 
in the open market ; and soap suds is 
needed to make them clean. If 
properly rinsed, they will not taste of 
the soap. 

Weight and Age of Chickens 
The weight of a chicken at different 
ages depends on the breed and other 
conditions. A Plymouth Rock or a 
Cochin a year old would weigh much 
more than a Leghorn. The exact age 
of a fowl cannot be easily determined. 
A pliable breast-bone, or, rather, carti- 



lage not yet changed to bone, the ab- 
sence of long hairs, and no pro- 
nounced scales on the legs indicate a 
young fowl. 

Brick Mould 
The brick mould used in the half- 
tone was an ice-cream mould, and was 
used because it gives well-shaped 
slices, easily served. The mould will 
not be injured, if the kettle be kept 
supplied with boiling water. 

French Beans 
French beans (flageolets) come to 
us dried and canned. Put the dried 
beans over the fire in cold water. Let 
heat slowly. Change the water once, 
and let simmer until the skins are ten- 
der. Four hours or more will be re- 
quired in cooking. Season with salt 
and pepper or with maitre d' Hotel 
butter. Serve with meat or fish, or at 
luncheon with bread and butter. 

Oatmeal Biscuits 
Make a bread dough of two cups of 
hot milk, one cup of uncooked oatmeal, 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a cup of sugar or 
molasses, a yeast cake softened in 
half a cup of lukewarm water, and 
about two cups, each, of entire wheat 
and white flour. Let rise twice. Bake 
in small timbale moulds. Serve fresh 
with salads or at five o'clock tea. 




ADDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Bosto7i 
Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Mrs. M. C. Bradley, principal of the 
Hamilton Cooking School, has opened 
a class in cooking at St. Margaret's 
College for pupils who are not con- 
nected with the college. These les- 
sons will be given in the Domestic 
Science class-rooms of the college, 
which are thoroughly and practically 
equipped for the work. 



Miss Grace Loring Rogers, class of 
1900, Boston Cooking School, has 
lately sent out a very handsomely en- 
graved card, announcing that she is 
prepared to give instruction at private 
residences in plain and fancy cooking, 
to furnish menus, and superintend 
luncheons, dinners, and receptions. 
Miss Rogers's home is at 138 Parker 
Street, Newton Centre. 



Miss Stella A. Downing, class of 
'96, Boston Cooking School, has been 
engaged to conduct a permanent cook- 
ing school in Springfield, Mass. Lead- 
ing women of Springfield are to act as 
advising board of the school. 



Miss Sara Reque, class of 1900, 
Boston Cooking School., is teaching 
cookery at Lafayette, Ind. 



viduals, clubs, club departments, and 
schools, a syllabus on Home Econom- 
ics, prepared by the Lake Placid Con- 
ference. This syllabus comprises an 
outline of ten lectures on the various 
topics included under the general sub- 
ject of Home Economics. These are 
accompanied by lists of books bearing 
upon each of the several topics, also 
subjects for themes in connection with 
these. It is thought that clubs and 
schools might be generally interested 
in this syllabus. 



The National Economic Association 
is sending out to new members, indi- 



The Purina Mills Company, St. 
Louis, Mo., make wise provision for the 
people in their employ. The close of 
the old year was made the occasion of 
the second annual convention and ban- 
quet for salesmen, demonstrators, and 



Rely upon 

Piatt's Chlorides 

as your household 
disinfectant. 

An odorless, colorless liquid ; 
powerful, safe, and cheap. 

Destroys disease germs and 
noxious gases, thus preventing 
sickness. Sold in quart bottles 
only, by druggists and high-class 
grocers. Prepared only by Henry 
B. Piatt, Piatt Street, New York. 




News and Notes 



241 



all other employees of the ''Purina 
Family." On the night of the banquet 
a new dining hall was dedicated. This 
room is well equipped, so that lunches 
can be served to all employees. A 
new kitchen is in process of construc- 
tion. No pains are spared by this 
company to bring about the best re- 
sults in every line of effort. They 
evidently have full faith in their own 
motto, — " Fine foods build fine minds." 



Paper set at Examination for 

Cookery Diploma by London 

Board of Education 

Candidates may attempt ten out of the 
twelve questions only. If more are at- 
tempted, only the first ten will be revised. 

1. What is meant by "top and bot- 
tom heat " in an oven ? Name some 
dishes which can be cooked by '' top 
heat," and some which require "bot- 
tom heat," and give the reasons. 

2. Give rules for "soup-making." 
Why is it an economical method of 
cookery } Give recipe for a good 
household gravy soup. 

3. Distinguish between the different 
methods of mixing ; namely, " stir- 
ring," " beating," " cutting or folding," 
naming dishes for which each method 
should be used. 

4. What is meant by clarifying fat.? 
What changes take place in the proc- 
ess ? For what is clarified fat used ? 

5. Is there any difference in boiling 
a " leg of mutton " and a ham, and, if 
so, what is the difference ? 

6. Give recipe for making a sponge 
cake, and say whether a hot, moderate, 
or cool oven is necessary, and why. 

7. What is the difference between 
short and flaky pastry ? What should 
be the heat of the oven for baking 
pastry, and why ? 



8. How would you clean (i) a sauce- 
pan in which milk has been burned? 
(2) knives which have been used for 
onions ? (3) an omelette pan ? 

9. What is the advantage of sepa- 

{Contimied o?i page 242.) 



Architect's Food 

Grape-nuts turned into Big Buildings 
The duties of an architect are so 
multitudinous, looking after the thou- 
sand and one details required in the 
construction of large buildings, that 
many of them suffer from the constant 
mental application, and require the best 
of food to keep up their work. The 
chief draughtsman in the office of R. T. 
Newberry, Architect, at 1227 New 
York Life Building, Chicago, by name 
Henry C. Hengels, says : — 

*' After nine months' constant appli- 
cation in the preparation of the neces- 
sary plans and details for the large 
hotel known as the Post Tavern and 
the Post Building at Battle Creek, as 
well as several other large institutions, 
I found myself in a very debilitated 
and dyspeptic condition, and unfit for 
work. 

" Instead of medical treatment, I 
used Grape-nuts food in place of the 
usual breakfast cereals. The first few 
days gave great encouragement, and, 
after a week's use, quite an appreciable 
improvement manifested itself. Since 
then, daily use has entirely restored 
the digestive functions to their natural 
healthy condition, and I have gained 
about one pound per week. I am now 
entirely well and strong again, and am 
able to apply myself to work with more 
than usual vigor. I consider Grape- 
nuts a most valuable food for all brain- 
workers. The help this food has given 
me is incalculable." 



1A.1 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



rating whites from yolks of eggs in 
cookery ? Why are they separated in 
making some cakes and puddings, and 
not in others ? 

10. Give three methods of making 
beef tea. Is beef tea which becomes 
a jelly when cold more nutritious for 
an invalid ? 

11. What would be the approximate 
time per pound which you would allow 
for boiling fish ? What would be the 
temperature of the water in which you 
would place fish for boiling? Name 
some of the fish which are generally 
boiled. 

12. How would you make gravy for 
(i) sirloin of beef.? (2) fillet of veal? 
(3) boiled leg of mutton ? (4) stewed 
rabbit ? 



Driven to desperation by the diffi- 
culty in securing servants, the ladies 
of Fond du Lac, Wis., are about to 
start a co-operative kitchen in an at- 
tempt to relieve the situation. The 
plan is to serve each family w^ho joins 
the enterprise with dinner only, to 
begin with, as it is feared that the 
attempt to serve all the meals may be 
too much to undertake at first. If the 
scheme is successful, its enlargement 
will be speedy. 

To a Bride 

One simple little song we sing 

To brides but newly wed, — 
Just make the best of everything, — 

EspeciaDy of bread. 

Detroit Free Press. 



Hard Lines 

To make a Man toe the Mark 
To take both tobacco and coffee 
away from a man seems pretty tough ; 
but the doctor ordered me to quit both. 



as my health was very poor, and I had 
got where I could do but little work. 

About a month after quitting, I com- 
menced on tobacco again, because I 
could hardly stand it. I got along 
without the coffee for the reason that 
I had taken up Postum Food Coffee, 
which I found very relishing to the 
appetite and wonderfully beneficial. 

I have gained twenty-five pounds by 
its use, and to-day I am a well man. 
I discovered in this way that it was 
the old-fashioned coffee that hurt me, 
and not the tobacco. When I first 
tried Postum, I did not relish it, but 
found that it was not made right; that is, 
they did not boil it long enough. Next 
time it came on the table, it was fine ; 
and I have been using it ever since. 

Mr. Fletcher, an old soldier of this 
place, w^as troubled with dyspepsia. 
I told him of my experience and my 
cure, and told him to quit coffee and 
use Postum Food Coffee. This was 
some time ago. I saw him yesterday; 
and he told me he had not felt better 
in twenty years, and nothing would 
induce him to go back from Postum 
to the use of common coffee. He had 
the same trouble in getting it made 
right, to start with. 

John Ashford, of Dillon, was also 
troubled with dyspepsia. I told him 
of my cure by the use of Postum Food 
Coffee, and warned him to be careful 
in having the Postum cooked long 
enough, when he did try it. To-day 
he is perfectly well, and his appetite 
never better. 

I could give you the names of a 
number of others who have been bene- 
fited by using Postum Good Coffee. 
I believe you are a true friend of 
suffering humanity. — Thomas Sprwg, 
Deave?'t(nvn, Ohio. 







o „ 

O o 

o 






o 2 

c 



he 



C OS 

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~ EJo 



The 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. V. 



APRIL and MAY. 



No. 6. 













A Summer Cottage 

By P. G. Gulbranson 



THIS house is an essay in the 
domain of summer camp Hfe. 
But, while its area is con- 
densed, it provides all those essential 
comforts, without which an outing does 
very little good. We need in vacation 
as comfortable beds as at any other 
time. The dining-table should be as 
inviting as in our workaday life. 
There should be equal facilities for 
preparing food. From the commercial 
standpoint of the landlord who has a 



shanty to let, there is an irresistible 
attraction in the advertisement that 
offers " Cheap, a second-hand cook- 
stove, suitable for a summer cottage." 
But the stove that has arrived at this 
stage of its existence is seldom fit for 
anything but the scrap-heap. The 
lining is gone, or the grate is immov- 
able. The oven won't bake, or the top 
undulates so that the pots must be 
very carefully set. No one would 
think of buying such for use in a per- 



244 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



manent home ; yet there are people, 
sane in every other way, who will live 
with such a thing all the summer, and 
thus heavily alloy their pleasure and 
profit. 

Then of as much importance is the 
question of water, of which there 
should always be a plentiful supply at 
the kitchen sink. Where running 
water cannot be had, much drudgery 
is entailed, if the well be not connected 
with the house. The windlass and 
bucket and the old-time well-sweep are 
more picturesque than comfortable. 
This last, however, becomes very inter- 
esting when made a support for morn- 
ing glories, scarlet runners, and the 
like. 

Finally, when we go to rest, let us 
have a comfortable room, however 
simply fitted, having as good a bed as 
that in our bread-winning routine, one 
whose covering, aired in the sunshine, 
has not been robbed of its outdoor 
fragrance on the ironing-board. 

Conventional camp life and its many 
inconveniences may do well enough 
for a week or two under favorable cir- 
cumstances ; but it is during adverse 
weather that this way of spending a 
hoUday is found wanting, and we real- 
ize that hardship is not necessarily 
beneficial. 

In the plainer way of life that still 
went on some years after the Civil 
War, the dwellings of people of mod- 
erate means, especially in the suburbs, 
were provided with no more plumbing 
than that at the kitchen sink. But in 
these days of bath-rooms, set-tubs, 
etc., installed almost everywhere, the 
transition to summer accommodations 
of a type ruder than that of the time 
mentioned is too violent to be pro- 
ductive of much benefit. While we 



want less of an establishment to take 
care of, and though the rooms should 
be installed more simply, yet the 
kitchen, the dining-room, and the bed- 
rooms should be so organized that we 
may get the greatest possible good 
from our summer holiday. 

Starting with the idea of building a 
small, compact, homelike cottage, we 
will discuss the one shown in the draw- 
ings before us. It faces the south. 
From the piazza, which runs across 
the front, we enter a room fourteen 
feet square, which is the sitting and 
dining room. On the right is an al- 
cove, where we may have two couches, 
or use one wall for the piano. This 
space is secluded enough to make a 
lounging-place without encroaching on 
the main room, and it also affords 
sleeping accommodations in an emer- 
gency. At the wall between the win- 
dow and the door there is room for a 
table and mirror, or for a writing-desk. 
Next to the fireplace is the china 
closet, and at the right of the chimney 
breast is a recess, which may be used 
for books. Of course at meal times 
there would be some confusion in this 
principal room ; and, if we should be- 
come convinced of the desirability of a 
dining-room, this could be built, at a 
moderate outlay by breaking through 
the west wall of the front room and 
the kitchen, without disturbing existing 
windows. 

Under the stairs, which are conven- 
ient and secluded, is a roomy clothes 
closet. 

Passing to the kitchen, we have a com- 
fortable working room, ten feet by four- 
teen, out of which opens the pantry, hav- 
ing shelving on two sides, and under 
the window a wide table shelf. Beyond 
is a room or shed for fuel, storage, and 



A Summer Cottage 



■45 



the ice-box. The back porch may be 
screened at the end by a lattice, and 
affords a place where much of the 
work can be done in favorable weather. 

Passing upstairs, we have three 
modest bedrooms and a space that 
can be fitted as a room, or used for 
storage. Part of the floor space, how- 
ever, is used up to afford head-room 
for the stairs. As the house faces the 
south, the bedrooms will be airy, hav- 
ing the benefit of the prevailing winds. 

There is no cellar or foundation, the 
supports being cedar posts. 



To reduce the cost of construction, 
the omission of plastering is a consid- 
erable item. Instead of the open fire- 
place we can have a stove. Single 
matched floors will do very well, though 
it would be much better to make the 
first floor double. Whether we plaster 
at first or not, we should provide for 
this possible addition by setting the 
studs in the usual way. The desirabil- 
ity of plastering should always be 
borne in mind, however: for an open 
cottage with partitions of sheathing 
has no privacy. It is a sounding-board, 





- F I R J- 



F L O O R • 



^ECO^D - FLOOR- 



The house is covered with shingles, as every one knows, who has heard 

which may be left unpainted : but the windows or blinds rattling in such a 

columns and other finish should be house, 
painted. The drawing, showing an interior, 



246 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



illustrates what may be done to deco- 
rate a room such as the sitting-room 
of this cottage. To obtain the effect 
of panelUng is a simple matter. Mould- 
ings are nailed on the plastering; and 
those parts which then appear as stiles 
and rails, the wainscot base, the win- 
dow and door finish, and the screens 
at the alcove are painted white. The 
panels are colored gray or green, or a 
cartridge paper may be applied. We 
may also use some unobtrusive paper 
of a conventional pattern. As this is 
a sunny and pre-eminently a summer 
room, violent or trying effects, such 
as red or strong yellow, should be 
avoided. 



Such forms of chairs and table as are 
here shown are now reproduced with 
great fidelity to the originals, and are 
obtainable at moderate cost. Especially 
is this true of the various Windsor pat- 
terns, which are perfectly at home in 
this room. 

Editor's Note. — An estimate of $700 
has been given by a practical builder for this 
house. This does not include plastering nor 
an open fireplace, but it does include studding 
for four naiUngs to a lath. A specification 
and set of blue prints, consisting of two floor 
plans and four elevations, first floor frame and 
one side frame, together with a sheet of de- 
tails, will be forwarded on receipt of five dol- 
lars ($5.00). Send orders to office of this 
magazine. 




Dear little Buttercup, 

Holding your chalice up, 
Rrimming with sunshine and dewdrops divine. 

Oft doth the golden day 

Send down a wistful ray, 
Thirsting to quaff from this goblet of thine ! 



Thou art the fairies' own ! 

Never a fairer shone, 
Brightening the wayside or starring the lea 

Wee little golden elf, 

Well might Queen Mab herself. 
Floating in fairy flight, poise over thee. 



With her rose-petal lips 

Kiss as she softly sips — 
Airily wreathing a rhythmical hymn — 

Thou to enfold for her — 

Thus to uphold for her — 
Chalice so dainty and gemmed to the brim ! 



Golden, enchanted cup. 

Brimming with magic up. 
Might we thy secrets but sip from their cell, 

Learning the flowery lore, 

Conning the lesson o'er, 
Mortals might win the dear buttercup's spell ! 



Grace Af>pletoH, in A\ Y. Home Journal. 




The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep." — W. King, " Art of Cookery " 



Kitchen Gardening 

By Eliza Stowe Twitchell 



" Upborne and surrounded, as we are, by 
this all-creative Nature, soft and fluid as a 
cloud or the air, why should we be such hard 
pedants, and magnify a few forms ? " — Evier- 
son. 

NO doubt all are able to re- 
call the unique courtship of 
" the gentleman in the next 
house," described by Dickens, who 
sought to win the affections of Mrs. 
Nickleby by tossing vegetables over 
his garden wall, and landing them care- 
fully at her feet. 

His fancy had been sprouted, well 
watered, and nourished into a full- 
rounded passion by watching her, 
through a small hole in the wall that 
divided them, while taking her medita- 
tive walks in her garden. 

To see onions and Qgg plants" rain- 
ing down at one's feet without any 
visible cause is enough to startle the 
attention of almost any female endowed 
with the usual amount of curiosity at- 



tributable to her sex. " The Gentle- 
man's " devotion, though unrequited, 
touched at last the one chord of her 
susceptibility, — her vanity. Meanwhile 
the reader enjoys the oddity of the 
situation, in watching the attempt to 
extract love and sunshine out of cab- 
bages and cucumbers. 

But, if there be very little romance 
in a kitchen garden, there is to be found 
much of good health, cheerfulness, con- 
tentment, and enjoyment. No home 
is complete without a spot of God's 
earth that one may call his own ; how- 
ever small or unsightly, a little patient 
labor, systematically applied, will soon 
transform it into a veritable Garden of 
Eden, Amid our restless striving' for 
individual, social, and national ag- 
grandizement, our craving to satisfy 
some unworthy ambition, the heart 
often turns back upon itself with an 
infinite hungering for the strong and 
enduring, around which it can close the 



248 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



tendrils of its affection and twine about 
and grow. 

And what is more reposeful than a 
spot of green earth, a running brook, 
a garden of trees and shrubs to be 
watched and tended ? How we grow 
to love their annual budding and blos- 
soming, their cooling shade ! Even 
the odor of the grass, the elastic tread 
upon the responsive earth, the line of 
sunshine and shade across the door- 
step, all harmonize so naturally with 
our higher social affections that they 



check our tendency to " magnify a few 
forms," teaching us the slow but cease- 
less activities of Nature's ways, and 
soothing us with a sense of her wide 
leisure and the unity of all good. 

Many a book-keeper, with pale face 
and white hands, has found that the 
last hours' sleep in the early morning 
were far better spent digging and plant- 
ing in the moist earth than drowsing in 
the close chamber ; and, by a little 
energy, he has been able to supply his 
family with fresh, crisp vegetables dur- 




The plot on the right as one enters the garden is given over to a strawberry bed, separating 
a row of blackberries and a row of red raspberries from two rows of currants, red and white. 

On the left is a grass-plot, where the clothes-line is strung. Against the hedge at one side 
of this plot is a flower-garden of roses, pinks, and violets. 

Across the path and still on the left of the entrance walk are placed beds of radishes, 
onions, and cauliflowers. In the corner is a hot-bed sufiiciently large to start the early vege- 
tables. Near the hot-bed are beds of lettuce and cucumbers. Seven rows of peas are in this 
plot. 

In the remaining quarter of the garden are eight rows of sweet corn, early and late, together 
with two rows of lima pole-beans and one row of Swiss chard. The remaining four rows are of 
asparagus. 



Kitchen Gardening 



249 



ing the long summer months, and him- 
self with calm nerves and a good 
appetite. 

Dumb-bell exercises and physical 
culture, excellent though they be, yet, 
compared with these, according to our 
latest English, are not '' in it " ; for the 
•joy of seeing things grow that have 
been planted by one's own hand is 
next to that of the poet or the ro- 
mancer, who, through the lively creative 
force of his imagination, can so drama- 
tize the common events of life that, 
again and yet again, they sing and 
speak to us in song and story. 

Before the house is painted or the 
blinds put up, before the furniture is 
all arranged and the draperies hung, 
begin planning a square somewhere in 
the garden for an asparagus bed. Once 
established, it will mostly care for it- 
self, yielding an hundred-fold. A few 
fresh cuttings from your own shoots 
are no more to be compared to the 
half-dried, tasteless sprouts one pur- 
chases in the market, than are fresh 
green peas, with the canned goods. 

Asparagus is a native of New Eng- 
land soil, growing wild on all our salt 
marsh downs. So all that it requires is 
a yearly supply of rich dressing and 
a covering of leaf mould, to give moist- 
ure to roots and prevent weeds from 
sprouting. 

A careful statistician has recently 
made an estimate — in dollars and 
cents — of the value that can be ob- 
tained from one acre of land when put 
to its various uses ; and the raising of 
asparagus exceeds all vegetables, and 
strawberries, all other fruits. For home 
consumption one requires small quan- 
tities with large variety ; but it is well 
to consider, first of all, those fruits and 
vegetables that give the most satisfac- 



tion for the least expenditure of labor ; 
and of these, probably, a bed of aspar- 
agus and a row of currant bushes stand 
first ; for, once established, they will 
yield bountiful crops, annually, for a 
score of years or more. By leaving the 
currants on the bushes during fruitage, 
even until some begin to wither and 
fall, fresh dishes of this fruit, so de- 
liciously tempting and appetizing on 
hot, sultry mornings, can be obtained, 
as often as desired, for four or six 
weeks. 

The variety and abundance of good 
things that can be extracted yearly out 
of a few square feet of mother earth 
is surprising. Every inch can be util- 
ized, every kind of soil made produc- 
tive by use of the many fertilizers now 
in the market. If the soil is clayey, it 
can be enriched by a few loads of 
loam. Such soil is usually fine, but 
heavy and damp, and cannot be worked 
as early in spring as the light sandy 
soil. 

Never work the ground while it is 
so wet as to clog. Better wait a week 
for it to dry. It must not be so 
plastic that slight pressure will harden 
it into cakes about the seeds or root- 
lets. When the soil is in right condi- 
tion, after sowing the seed, press the 
earth down firmly upon them. For 
want of this simple precaution, one- 
fourth of all seeds fail to germinate, 
especially if warm days soon appear. 
The dry atmosphere penetrates the 
surface, shrivels the seeds, until all 
vitality is destroyed. The same pre- 
caution must be observed in transplant- 
ing. After the plants are set and 
firmly pressed about the roots, then 
water freely. 

Another general rule is worth re- 
membering, and that is, to weed your 



250 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



garden before the weeds appear. A 
little time spent stirring the ground 
with a small steel rake or pointed hoe 
will destroy thousands of underground 
rootlets. Nowhere does "a stitch in 
time " so surely ''save nine." 

All hardy vegetables should be sown 
by the middle or last of April. If de- 
layed until the warm days in May, the 
crop is likely to be late and inferior. 
True, the air is still chilly ; but " the 
marriage of earth and sky " has begun, 
and magnetic currents are at work, lift- 
ing the sap and swelling the buds. 

In a small garden it is better to 
forego the raising of the coarser vege- 
tables, unless it be a few beets, par- 
snips, and early potatoes, using the 
land for choicer varieties, some of 
which, such as lettuce, peas, sweet corn, 
and, perhaps, cucumbers and celery, 
can be planted so as to give succes- 
sional crops. 

Early paas and lettuce should be 
sown by the latter part of March. 
Enough lettuce can be germinated in 
a small box in some sunny kitchen 
window. Transplant by the middle 
of April in rows from twelve to fifteen 
inches apart, with the plants seven or 
eight inches apart, using plenty of 
well-rotted stable-dressing, and water- 
ing often and abundantly, thus forcing 
a rapid growth, which will soon pro- 
duce large heads, exceedingly tender. 
A fresh box of seeds should be sown 
every six or eight weeks, during sum- 
mer, that the table may be supplied 
until November, since light frosts do 
not affect strong plants. This plant, 
containing so little nourishment, is, 
nevertheless, a standard successional, 
used in the early spring with radishes, 
later with strawberries, then with to- 
matoes, and at last with celery. 



Swiss chard, or sea kale, should 
find a place in every garden. The 
seed may be sown in May, and trans- 
planted in July, two feet apart. These 
greens, when touched with frost, are 
the most tender and delicate of all the 
cabbage tribe. Cover the crowns dur- 
ing winter, and, in the early spring, 
blanch the first shoots by covering, 
the same as celery is treated, and cut 
for use before leafing. The blanched 
stems have a flavor something between 
asparagus and cauliflower, and by 
most persons are much preferred to 
either. 

Parsley is best grown in a large box, 
near the house, where it can be con- 
veniently watered and picked during 
the summer. Carry it into the cellar 
in October, and, if kept watered, it 
will remain comparatively fresh during 
November and December, or the green 
leaves can be picked and dried for use. 
In germinating, remember that these 
little seeds can neither be hurried nor 
coaxed. They sometimes lie dormant 
in their moist sunny bed for six long 
weeks before a shoot appears. 

Sweet corn can be planted about 
the middle of May and until July, for 
successional crops. 

Cauliflower, egg and tomato plants, 
can best be, obtained at the nursery, 
and set out about the middle of May. 
A hundred celery plants can be bought 
for a cent apiece, and set out in July. 
These, with a row of choice white Lima 
pole beans, one or two hills of cucum- 
bers, and perhaps a few sweet herbs 
will afford sufficient variety, as well as 
the nourishment so craved by the ap- 
petite during the summer months. 

Should any beets be left in October, 
they will keep fresh, if placed in the 
cellar in a box, covered with sand. 



Sights and Tastes in Tripoli 

By Mabel Loomis Todd 



FULLY two score languages and 
dialects greeted my arrival on 
the pier at Tripoli. The veriest 
Babel of nationalities filled the warm 
air with clamor. For two minutes of 
silence, wherein to collect my scattered 
mental equipment, I would have bar- 
tered even days on that strange shore ; 
and that meant a great deal. 

A well-seasoned traveller, to whom 
new peoples and regions and experi- 
ences have become an intellectual 
necessity, or, if you will, a sort of dissi- 
pation, like novels or over-indulgence 
in curry, I count every moment in 
each fresh country as rich with endless 
wealth of romantic and picturesque 
possibility, — not always realized, per- 
haps, but always fascinating. 

I was met by the astronomer and 
some English friends, but they brought 
no carriage to convey me in state to 
headquarters. No camel, even, awaited 
my coming, nor the ever-patient, abused, 
overladen, and underpaid donkey. 
They wisely judged that Tripolitan 
methods of conveyance had best be 
indulged gradually and with circum- 
spection. Thus it fell out that my 
first excursion upon unspoiled African 
soil was upon my own feet, through the 
narrow streets, followed by numerous 
sons of the desert, bearing my luggage. 
Around corners innumerable, through 
winding passages between high, white 
stucco walls, with tunnels here and 
there, we threaded our way into the 
heart of the city. 

Suddenly a long iron rod shot out 
into the street, exactly at my feet, over 
which I barely saved myself from 



stumbling. A baker was merely pull- 
ing out of his oven a wide, flat shovel 
attached to that rather embarrassing 
handle, upon w^hich half a dozen loaves 
of saffron-hued bread had just attained 
the proper tint from the glowing coals. 
Knowing neither Arabic nor Turkish, 
nor even Maltese, I could not effec- 
tively expostulate, nor, indeed, ever 
after wished to, discovering it as the 
universal, if somewhat startling, method 
of removing bread from the oven. The 
baker's room is small, but wide open. 
What more convenient arrangement 
possible than to use the street as a sort 
of subsidiary apartment for manipulat- 
ing the utensils of his craft ? 

But if one cannot, in a few weeks' 
residence in this unadulterated Oriental 
community, learn the prevalent, if un- 
usual, languages current, a few words 
in each grow to be a part of one's daily 
vocabulary. 

From my window, overlooking a 
white-domed mosque and a narrow 
street, motley processions filed past 
from early dawn to midnight. Shortly 
after sunrise appeared droves of goats, 
attached to a cavalcade of bells ring- 
ing as insistently as if for the sole pur- 
pose of awakening the town of Tripoli. 

The little hoofs, too, made a chorus 
of metallic clicks ; and the big Arab 
who drove them sang a few guttural 
notes in unknown intervals. Farther 
sleep fled before the charm of the 
thoroughfares. 

I soon learned the cry for potatoes, 
for tomatoes, for beans, as the venders, 
all of different colors and nationalities, 
strode by with their wares spread 



252 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in baskets and trays upon their heads ; 
and it was not long before I recognized 
the voice and personality of a huge, 
jet-black Soudanese, in rags and a fez, 
who passed every morning with majes- 
tic stride, crying the whitest of eggs. 

When the street bakers have tripped 
enough unwary pedestrians before their 
shops, the oven-results are carried out 
to the bread-market, beyond the 
Pasha's castle, where all day long hud- 
dled figures, wrapped in white barra- 
can, bargain and keep guard over 
piles of loaves of many unappetizing 
shades and shapes. 

One must always have considerable 
cosmopolitanism ready for instant use, 
when some kinds of Oriental food are 
hospitably proffered, as I had dis- 
covered in Hawaii, in many parts of 
Japan and other regions ; but, however 
peculiar and unnamable TripoUtan 
eatables might be, coffee was always 
delicious, provided, of course, one likes 
it rich and strong, with an Arab flavor, 
and made in Turkish style. After 
luncheon and after dinner one of the 
pleasant customs is to repair to the 
beach, or to the Marina, there to drink 
this delectable — liquid I was about to 
write, though substance would more 
nearly express it. White-robed and 
befezzed Arab boys run over the 
sands, take the order, and in an in- 
credibly short time return with the 
tiny, fragrant cups and the delicately 
rose-perfumed drinking water. The 
low lap of Mediterranean waves on 
the shore close at hand adds to the 
dreamy spell, until all merely mundane 
cares are forgotten or exorcised in 
languorous ease and joy of living, as 
the nargileh brings its lotus touch to 
perfect the starlit mood. On certain 
evenings the Turkish band, softened 



by distance almost into harmony, sends 
its interrogative notes over the white 
buildings and down the beach, to 
mingle with the hum of voices and the 
gentle surf. 

At the Marina the coffee is equally 
good, but the stage setting is more 
vigorous. For here the sponge and 
coral fishermen come in from their 
boats at anchor ; a dervish with un- 
covered, curly head stalks by ; the fish- 
market is in full swing ; old men weav- 
ing coarse baskets crouch in corners ; 
and potters mould their water jars, in 
shapes identical with the Roman am- 
phoras of fifteen hundred years ago, 
and frequently found just under the 
surface along this shore. 

The fish-market is a joy — to look at. 
Brilliant scarlet, equally startling blue, 
bright green, silver, — the exquisite 
bits of palpitating color lie in helpless 
heaps, awaiting purchasers. Some of 
these fish are excellent eating : others 
are more decorative than palatable. 
But Arab ways of preparing food give 
peculiar flavors even to things familiar. 

One very hot day, when the dry 
wind blew straight up from the desert, 
bringing the tropics in its train, we 
started for a luncheon given in our 
honor by a native family with Euro- 
pean affiliations. The streets were 
deserted. Even the inky Soudanese 
had disappeared, one here and there 
sleeping in some strip of shade under 
a wall. Donkeys and dogs were not 
abroad. The heat was stifling, liter- 
ally **too hot to ride," as my interpre- 
ter said when he came to conduct me 
to our host's house. So creeping 
along the shadow stealthily, as if we 
sought concealment rather than cool- 
ness, the white villa by the sea was 
finally reached. 



Suggestions for Home Nursing 



'^S2 



Opening the door brought at once a 
temperature of comfort, from the thick 
walls of masonry which effectually 
exclude heat. 

My hostess met me arrayed in very 
gorgeous plumage. Her hair was 
braided with a long strip of blue and 
silver silk. Her full blouse of pink and 
gold peeped from a round zouave 
jacket without sleeves,, of red velvet 
embroidered in gold. Full Turkish 
trousers of yellow silk were confined 
at the ankle, just above heelless slip- 
pers ; while strings of sequins adorned 
her throat and forehead and arms. 

Several small children were brought 
forward, and a few guests. As no one 
spoke anything but Arabic, and the en- 
tertainment, other than examining one 
another's apparel, consisted wholly in 
looking through a stereoscope at half a 
dozen views, the announcement of lun- 
cheon was the reverse of unwelcome. 

We sat at a table, before each guest 
a pile of eight or ten plates. Chickens 
cooked in odd ways, several heretofore 
unexperienced vegetables, a great va- 



riety of sour combinations, tasting like 
pickles, each came by itself, and the 
top plate was removed after its disap- 
pearance. The later courses were 
ever-increasing returns to comfort, 
from the diminishing collection of 
china before one. Several kinds of 
Arab wine were served, and a fiery 
liqueur of whose properties I am still 
uncertain. The inevitable cus-cus ap- 
peared, always welcome, and at the 
end delicious Turkish coffee. But it 
was four hours before that repast came 
to an end, so that I could properly leave. 
However, that was an advantage, too ; 
for, when I mounted my homeward 
camel, the sun was sending long, level 
beams over the glistening sand and 
the gently murmuring sea, and the 
heat was less insistent. 

My hostess waved good-by from the 
balcony, her sister bowed demurely, 
while the other guests hovered in the 
background ; and I and my camel 
ambled up the street to the British 
consulate, and a dinner to warm one's 
heart even in retrospect. 



Suggestions for Home Nursing' 

By M. C. Limerick and L. R. Balderston 
Article No. 4 



BATHING {continued), — A 
bath should never be given 
within two hours after a full 
meal. To put a feeble patient in a 
bath, wrap him in a sheet and lower 
gently into the water. The nurse 
should have some one to help her 
in lifting patient into the tub. Have 
a warm, dry sheet ready to wrap him 
in when he leaves the bath. Over this 



fold a blanket ; and, well protected, 
leave him wrapped in it for a few min- 
utes. In this way he will be made dry 
without extra fatigue. A little rubbing 
with a soft towel will complete the 
process. If a bath is to be repeated 
very soon, do not put on clothes, but 
leave the patient wrapped in a dry 
sheet, ready for the next bath. 

After a soothing bath, the patient 

Copyright. 



254 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



should be kept quiet. After a stimulat- 
ing bath, energetic rubbing and exer- 
cise are in order. 

Cold Baths. — Cold baths are used 
to produce reaction or nervous shock, 
or to lower the temperature. They are 
also used as a tonic. A cold bath 
should not be given when the patient 
feels chilly, when there is any visceral 
inflammation or tendency to congestion 
of the internal organs, during free 
perspiration or menstruation. In bath . 
the pulse is quickened, but the surface 
temperature is lowered, and the blood 
accumulates in the internal organs, all 
which produce reaction, soon followed 
by vigorous circulation and feeling of 
warmth. The cold bath extracts the 
heat from the body, thus forming a 
speedy and effective way of bringing 
down fever. Should a nervous shock 
not be desired, the bath may be started 
with tepid water, and cold water grad- 
ually added. 

The temperature for cold baths is 
33 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit ; 
for cool baths, 65 degrees to 75 degrees 
Fahrenheit. 

Cold Bath as a Tonic. — In giv- 
ing a cold bath as a tonic, the patient 
should have a certr.in amount of vigor 
to endure it. It is best given in the 
morning, and should always be followed 
by vigorous rubbing. First wet the 
head at the forehead and base of brain, 
and then lower the patient into the 
water. The shock of sudden immer- 
sion in cold water may be avoided by 
beginning with warm water, and reduc- 
ing the temperature, until the desired 
reaction is reached, usually in about 
five minutes. The colder the water, 
the sooner the reaction takes place. 
As the temperature is reduced, there 
will be a sense of chilliness ; but this 



should not last. Should shivering come 
on during the bath, the patient should 
be taken out of the bath, put into bed, 
wrapped warmly, and heat applied. 
If chilliness continues, give stimulants. 
A cold sponge bath can be given with 
much less danger of chill, if one has 
the feet in warm water. A cold sponge 
bath should not last longer than five 
minutes, and the head should be pre- 
viously wet as for a cold plunge. Rub- 
bing should follow, as this bath is given 
as a tonic, not to reduce temperature. 
In giving either bath, always have hot 
w^ater bags to apply to the feet, under 
the knees, and on the abdomen, in case 
the chilliness continues. If rubbing is 
needed to start the circulation, it should 
be given with pressure toward the 
heart. 

Cold Foot-baths. — A cold foot- 
bath is given for cold feet. Have the 
temperature of the water 65 degrees. 
Wet the patient's head, as in other 
baths. This bath may last five or ten 
minutes. After the feet are taken 
out, rub from knees downward with 
a rough towel. 

Baths to reduce Temperature. — 
The patient is lowered into a tub half- 
full of water at 68 degrees. Upon 
first entering a cold bath, the patient 
will feel chilly. Reaction will then 
follow, with a feeling of warmth ; but, 
if the bath be continued too long, the 
chilliness will return, with \veakness 
and depression. The nurse should 
try to avoid this ; but, if it occurs, the 
patient should be put in bed immedi- 
ately, and cared for by applying hot- 
water bags, as described above. 

Instead of the bath to reduce tem- 
perature, the same effect may be 
easily produced by applying towels 
wrung out of ice-water, one after the 



Suggestions for Home Nursing 



^SS 



other, from neck downward. When 
the body has been covered, begin at 
the head, and renew each towel in 
succession, continuing as long as 
necessary. The towels should be ap- 
plied on the front of the patient first. 
Afterward apply on the back in like 
manner. The bed should be thor- 
oughly protected, with several blankets, 
or a rubber sheet. A blanket should 
be placed over the patient, to protect 
the upper covering of the bed. 

Baths for Nervous Shocks. — To 
produce a nervous shock, as in some 
cases of the brain or nerves, cold 
water is thrown upon the body. A 
shower bath or douche may be used. 
This bath is often resorted to in cases 
of hysteria. Place the patient on the 
side of the bed, or, if well enough, on 
side of bath-tub. If given on the bed, 
always protect this with rubber sheet. 
Use a fountain syringe, allowing the 
water to flow first on one side of the 
spine, then on the other. The bag 
should be hung high, thus giving force 
to the water. For a weak patient the 
same effect may be brought about by 
placing cloths wrung out of ice-water, 
or bags filled with ice, on either side 
of the spine. 

Hot Baths. — A general warm or 
hot bath is used to induce perspira- 
tion, soothe pain, or relax spasm. 
Sometimes, from lack of exercise, the 
kidneys do not work properly, and the 
waste products are not eliminated. 



These baths dilate the blood-vessels 
near the surface of the body, causing 
the patient to perspire freely ; and so 
a large amount of waste material is 
carried off. A very hot bath excites 
the nerves, while a tepid bath calms 
and soothes them. If the water be 
too hot or bath too long, languor or 
faintness may result. The tempera- 
ture of the water should be tested with 
a thermometer, and kept the same 
throughout. A hot bath should not 
be given during the menstrual period 
or in the last stages of pregnancy. 

If a tub is ordered, it should be 
partly filled with warm water, the 
patient carefully put in, and then the 
temperature gradually increased to 
the prescribed degree. The invalid 
should never be left alone in the 
water, and should always be taken 
out, if the least sign of faintness is 
noticed. At the end of ten or fifteen 
minutes the patient is taken out, and 
put into bed, on a blanket, which is 
wrapped snugly around him. Apply 
cool, wet cloths to the head, and give 
a drink of cool water frequently. 
This will increase the perspiration, 
and impurities will be given off in 
larger quantities. After the patient 
has been in the blanket the prescribed 
time, sponge with warm water, or 
alcohol and warm water, and wipe 
dry. The gown is put on, and the 
patient moved to the other side of the 
bed. 




For the Children 



By Inez Redding 



Little Jack Horner sat in a corner, 
Eating a piece of Christmas pie: 

He put in his thumb and pulled out a plum, 
And said, " What a big boy am I ! " 

A CANDY PIE may be made a 
pretty ornament for the table 
at a children's party, and 
afford the little ones much pleasure. 

Somewhat will depend upon the 
age of the children what the filling of 
the pie should be. For very small 
tots, nothing will give greater pleasure 
than candy animals. For children of 
larger growth, small, dainty boxes of 
bonbons may be used. 

Whatever is chosen, it should be 
put in a round, deep dish, the sides of 
which may be covered with crepe 
paper to harmonize with the table dec- 
orations. On the top, over a piece of 
heavy card-board, arrange a flat bou- 
quet, so that none of the stems will 
show. Attach a ribbon of the same 
color as the crepe paper to each article 
in the pie (there should of course be 
the same number as guests), and let the 
ribbon streamers reach to the plate of 
each little guest. This will form in 
itself a very pretty table decoration, 
and few of the young people will re- 
gard the floral centre-piece thus ar- 



ranged with any curiosity. Just before 
the children leave the table, remove 
the pasteboard and flowers, and let 
earch one draw out the article attached 
to her own piece of ribbon. 

A similar pie may be served in the 
drawing-room, at any holiday enter- 
tainment. As many tiny souvenirs as 
there are guests may be placed in the 
pie with the bright ribbons attached. 
In this case the effect is very pretty, if 
both sides and top of the dish be cov- 
ered with white paper, and yellow baby 
ribbon be used. The ends of the rib- 
bon extending outside the dish should 
be about half a yard long, and to each 
a tiny bell should be attached. 

The pie may be brought into the 
room at some appropriate time, or be 
placed on a small table before the 
arrival of the guests. When ready to 
" serve," cut a large slit in the paper 
through which the gifts may be drawn. 
Painted eggs, downy chickens, or 
pretty cards would be suitable for an 
Easter pie. When such a pie is pre- 
pared for other occasions, and special 
gifts are selected for the different 
guests, each ribbon may have the 
name of some person traced on it 
with sepia in quaint lettering. 



" Dissatisfaction with our life's en- 
deavor springs in some degree from 
dulness. We require higher tasks be- 
cause we do not recognize the height of 
those we have. ... To be honest, to be 
kind, to earn a little, and to spend a lit- 
tle less, to make, upon the whole, a fam- 
ily happier for his presence, to re- 



nounce, when that shall be necessary, 
and not be imbittered, to keep a few 
friends, but those without capit- 
ulation, — above all, on the same 
grim condition, to keep friends with 
himself, — here is a task for all that 
a man has of fortitude and delicacy. 
Stevenson. 



Recipes from Public Demonstrations 
at the Boston Cooking School 



Appledore Soup 
Boil three medium-sized potatoes 
until tender, then pass through a sieve. 
Fry three slices of onion in three table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Let cool. Then 
pour on gradually one quart of scalded 
milk. Let boil five minutes, then add 
the potatoes, one teaspoonful and a 
half of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of celery-salt and paprika, three 
tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, and 
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

Garni con Chili 

Disjoint two chickens, season with 
salt and pepper, and saute in hot 
butter. Remove the seeds and veins 
from eight red peppers, let stand cov- 
ered with boiling water until soft, then 
press through a sieve. Add one tea- 
spoonful of salt, one onion, two cloves 
of garlic chopped fine, the chicken 
and boiling water to cover. Cook 
until the chicken is tender. Remove 
the chicken to a serving-dish. Add 
flour and water, or butter and flour 
creamed together, to thicken the sauce. 
Let simmer ten minutes, and pour over 
the chicken. 

Creole Sauce 
Cook two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
onion, two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
green pepper, one tablespoonful of 
chopped red pepper, and four table- 
spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms in 
three tablespoonfuls of butter five 
minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, and, when well blended, one cup 



of tomatoes, one-fourth a cup of sherry 
wine; a few slices of truffle, and salt to 
taste. Let simmer fifteen minutes. 

Arros con Tomates 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Add one cup of rice, and stir until well 
browned. Cook in highly seasoned 
brown stock, in a double boiler, until 
tender. About three cups of stock 
will be required. Turn into a serving- 
dish, and cover with a Creole sauce. 
Garnish with pimento or with strips of 
cooked green pepper. 

Mock Crabs (Prize Recipe) 
Cook a teaspoonful of fine-chopped 
onion in two tablespoonfuls and one- 
half of butter, in the blazer of a 
chafing-dish, five minutes. Add four 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and, when 
blended with the butter, stir in three- 
fourths a cup of milk. When the mixt- 
ure boils, add one cup of kornlet, one 
and one-fourth teaspoonful of Worces- 
tershire sauce, one-third a teaspoonful 
of mustard, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
paprika, and a few grains of cayenne. 
When again boiling, set over hot water, 
and stir in one beaten egg. Serve on 
thin crackers. 

Brown Bread Cream Toast with 
Cheese 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
the blazer. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, and stir until cooked a little, 
then add one cup of milk. When the 
mixture boils, add three-fourths a cup 
of grated Gruyere cheese and one 



258 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



beaten egg. Stir over hot water until 
well mixed. Then add a cup of Amer- 
ican factory cheese cut in very small 
cubes. Let stand a few seconds, then 
season with salt and cayenne, and pour 
over pieces of toasted brown bread. 

Lucanian Eggs 

Cut five hard-boiled eggs in eighths 
lengthwise. Add one cup of cooked 
macaroni, half a cup of grated cheese, 
and one cup and three-fourths of white 
sauce seasoned v/ith salt, paprika, on- 
ion juice, and anchovy essence. Turn 
into a buttered baking-dish, cover with 
buttered crumbs, and set into the oven 
long enough to brown the crumbs. 

Buckwheat Cakes 
Soak one-third a cup of fine bread 
crumbs in two cups of scalded milk 
thirty minutes. Add half a teaspoon- 
iul of salt, one-fourth a cake of com- 
pressed yeast softened in half a cup 
of lukewarm water, and one cup and 
three-fourths of buckwheat flour. Let 
rise over night. In the morning add 
one tablespoonful of molasses and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of soda dissolved 
in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water. 
Fry on a hot, oiled griddle, and serve 
with maple sugar. 

Chocolate 
Melt one ounce and a half of un- 
sweetened chocolate. Add four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and one cup of boil- 
ing water, with a few grains of salt. 
Let boil two minutes, then add to one 
cup of evaporated cream dissolved in 
two cups of boiling water. Mill or 
beat thoroughly with an egg-beater. 



and serve with or without whipped 
cream. 

Coffee Cream Tarts 
Cut plain or puff pastry in circular 
pieces three-eighths an inch thick. 
With a pastry bag and tube pipe upon 
these a border of cream-cake mixture, 
having it come close to the edge of the 
paste. When baked and cold, fill with 
coffee cream, and cover the edge with 
chocolate frosting. 

Coffee Cream 
Scald one cup of milk with three 
tablespoonfuls of coffee. Let infuse 
fifteen minutes, strain, and return to the 
fire ; then stir in a few grains of salt 
and one-fourth a cup of flour mixed 
with half a cup of sugar. Let cook in 
a double boiler eighteen minutes. Add 
an egg, slightly beaten, first diluting it 
with a little of the hot mixture. When 
cool, add one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
vanilla and fill the cases ; then cover 
with whipped cream sweetened and 
flavored. 

Pekoe Cream 
Scald one pint of milk with three 
tablespoonfuls of Pekoe tea. Let 
stand five minutes, strain, add one 
cup and a half of sugar mixed with 
four slightly beaten eggs. Cook, stir- 
ring constantly, over hot water until 
the mixture thickens. Strain. Add a 
few grains of salt and the grated rind 
of an orange. Let cool ; add a pint 
of double cream, and freeze. Serve 
moulded in a brick or fanciful-shaped 
mould. Garnish with candied orange 
peel. 



Selected Verse 



The Barley Cakes 

Drudgery, drudgery ! all the day ! 
The grassy mountains, the breeze-swept lakes. 
The fair sweet flowers among the brakes, 
The birds that flutter among the trees. 
The flocks on the hillside, — none of these 
Gladden my life. I must throw away 
My life's best days on the homely care 
That falls to the lot of the housewife, bare 
As the rocks of Hemipn, — the life of one 
Who from dawn of day to the setting sun 
Does nothing grander than sweep, or bake 
In the ashes the little barley cake. 

Drudgery, drudgery. Ah I to-day 

My lad goes into the desert to keep 

(My shepherd boy brave) his father's sheep. 

He must not know that my heart is faint 

Or catch the gloom of my sad complaint. 

And shame to me that I've dared to lay 

Across my threshold this bit of rue, 

Forgetful that palm-trees about me grew, 

Fruitful and fair as the sixty-and-ten 

That shaded the waters of Elim. 

When I think of my boy, 'tis with joy I make 

For his lunch in the desert the barley cake. 

The mother toiled on in her home that day; 
But the Master came to the desert place, 
And the multitude followed him, quick to trace 
The steps of the Miracle-worker who 
Dropped blessings into their lives, like dew 
That brightened the flowers along the way. 
A multitude hungry; and whence the bread 
With which these thousands must now be fed .'' 
O mother, bound close to a lowly task. 
What grander work could your fond heart ask ? 
The Master receives from your boy, and breaks, 
With his blessings, your five little barley cakes. 
William N. Burr. 



Turn, turn my wheel I All life is brief ; 
What now is bud will soon be leaf. 

What now is leaf will soon decay ; 
The wind blows east, the wind blows west ; 
The blue eggs in the robin's nest 
Will soon have wings and beak and breast. 
And flutter and fly away. 

Longfellow. 



True Easter 

The world for the dead Christ weepeth. 

And holdeth her Lenten fast. 
Doth she think that Christ still sleepeth. 

And night is not overpast ? 

Nay, but the word is spoken ! 

Nay, but the tomb is broken, 
And " Christ is risen ! Yea, Christ is risen* 
indeed ! " 

Long past is the Lenten moaning, 

Long past is the bitter night. 
Long past is the Easter dawning : 
Now it is noonday light. 
Let every song be gladness. 
Why should the Bride have sadness ? 
Her " Lord is risen ! Her Lord is risen, in- 
deed ! " 

He suffered once and forever 
The cross, the smiting and pain. 

0}ice did the sepulchre sever ; 
But never, never again 
Earth nor hell can bereave us, 
Jesus will never leave us; 
For " He hath risen ! Yea, he hath risen, 

indeed ! " 

Always so ready to ease us, 
Always so ready to stay, 
Pray, pray that the living Jesus 
May walk with us day by day. 
Always the Easter glory. 
Always the same glad story, — 
"The Christ is risen! The Christ is risen, 
indeed! 

Lillie E. Parr. 



So grant it, Lord, this Easter Day. 
Cast fear and doubt and scorn away, 
Bring human hearts beneath thy sway. 
As when thou burst the tomb ! 

Alice M. Kyle. 



Greatly begin ! Though thou hast time 

But for a line, be that sublime ; 
Not failure, but low aim is crime. 

James Rttssell Lozoell. 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL CORPORATION 

EST.KBLISHZD 1879. InCOIPOIATED 1 88 2. 

ScHaoL: 372 BOYLSTON STREET. 



^cfzi'b of PEnacrrs, 1901. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL, Pres£d^fii. 

Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Vi^e-P resident. 



^txtctxrts* 
Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL. 

Mrs. THOMAS MACK. 
Mrs. GEORGE E. NILES. 
Mrs. WALTER CHANNING. 
Mrs. WIN5L0W WARREN. 
Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS. 
Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY. 
Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER. 
Miss MINNA TR_A.IN. 

Mrs. LINDZEE TILDEN. 
Miss ELIZABETH ROGERS. 
Miss EMILY GREENE, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS, Secretary'. 
Principal, Miss FANNIE MORRILL FARMER. 
/ Miss MARIA W. HOWARD. 
Assistants, ( ^^^ MARIETTA McPHERSON. 

THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL .\L\GAZINE 

CF 

Calinarv Science and Doinesnc Economics. 

?rELI£HED EIWOXTKLY. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
iKG-ScHOOL Corporation. 

PniJifafinn Office : 

37a BoYLSTON STarrx, Boston, Mass. 

JANET McKENZIE HILL Editor. 

BENJ. M. HILL Gexeral Manager. 

R. B. HILL EusLVESs Ma*s-ager. 

SuBscKiPTiox, 50c. pz?. Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advektising Rates rrf-XiSHED ox Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-Sckool Mag-azine is sent mhvI 
ordered discor,rliiued, aad arrearage; are r.aid. 

The date stsimped on the wrapper is the date on which 
jonr snbscrqjtkm expires : it is, also, an acknowledgxaeiit 
tfiat a sB b a mp tiOB or a renewal of the same bas been 

on receipt of dbe oolonsd Uank cndosed 

rtioe to lenew sdbaamtian or* 
address, please {^ the «&/ address as «^ as d 

In lefening to an original enfanjr, we mnst 1 
name as it was fonneriy giwen, bugedier wilb d> 
office, Coantj, State, Post-oiioe Box, or Street NvBaber. 

PosTAts.— To all parts of the United States. Canada, 
and Meadoo the postase is piq i aid bf the pntiBArrs, ejc- 
cefi ui Bmtitm, In naldns icnewab. snfascriben in the 
postal Astiidt of Boston are leqaested to add 12 oeate to 
the sabscriptian price to cover ddjvay iliaiges. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Bccond-daM matter. 



SINGLENESS of purpose is t±ie 
.eading motive of the Boston 
Cooking-School Magazhu. The 
efforts of the management to produce 
a first-class periodical, devoted exclu- 
sivel)" to the interests of culinan* sci- 
ence and domestic economics, are not 
to be diverted. We deem it no part 
of our mission to be an authority in 
matters of style, fashion, or fine arts. 
\^"e do aim, however, to keep in 
the van of progress as regards that 
homely domestic art upon which, we 
firmly maintain, the higher life of the 
household depends. 

In keeping with this object the ar- 
ticle on '' A Summer Cottage," by Mr. 
Gulbranson, -Kitchen Gardening," by 
Mrs. Twitchell, and " Sights and Tastes 
in Tripoli," by Mrs. Mabel Loomis 
Todd, are presented. 

The vacation season is approaching. 
Our summer cottage will be found 
suitable for seaside or inland resort, 
and must be regarded as a model of 
convenience, comfort, and economy. 
The plans were drawn by a skilled 
designer. They can be carried out 
easily by any good carpenter. With 
the addition of a cellar, the house 
would make a cosey residence, for a 
small family m the countr\-, the year 
round. As stated in a foot-note else- 
where, an estimate of $700 has been 
given by a practical builder for this 
house. This does not include plaster- 
ing nor an open fireplace. A specifica- 
tion and a set of blue prints, con- 
sisting of two floor plans and four 
elevations, first-floor frame, and one 
side frame, together with a sheet of de- 
tails, will be furnished at moderate cost 
on application to the office of this 
masrazine. 



Editorials 



261 



CHARLES AUSTIN BATES 
has given many practical hints 
on advertising. The follow- 
ing is recent : " I feel that a literary 
magazine which is not interesting 
enough to secure a large circulation 
is not sufficiently interesting to insure 
careful reading by the small number of 
people who receive it. If the reading 
matter of a publication is slighted, ad- 
vertising in that paper is of compara- 
tively little value. People don't buy a 
paper in order to read the ads." 

That is, the value of a publication, 
as an advertising medium, depends 
upon extent of circulation, and this, in 
turn, upon the intrinsic merit of its 
literary contents. This may not be 
gainsaid. And yet very many people 
read a literary publication who are in 
no wise interested in the advertise- 
ments it contains. A story, an arti- 
cle, some single feature, may be the 
attraction. Many readers, it is said, 
acquire the habit of clipping desired 
items from current periodicals, and 
relegating all else to the waste-basket. 
Certainly, the mass of advertisements 
in many periodicals of large circula- 
tion is like a vast forest, where danger 
is of being lost. 

People, we feel, do not invest in a 
culinary publication, for instance, un- 
less they are interested in its con- 
tents. Nor is that interest confined 
merely to the pleasure of intellectual 
entertainment or amusement. In the 
culinary journal, in larger measure 
than in any other class of periodical, 
the advertising pages are in keeping 
with the reading matter. The entire 
contents are harmonious, and directed 
to the advancement of a single object : 
namely, improved ways in the house- 
hold. 



The earnest, progressive house- 
keepers, then, who are seeking prac- 
tical information or helpful suggestion 
along these lines, are likely not only 
to scan, but to weigh and consider the 
matter that the culinary publication 
presents. It still holds : " Some 
books are to be read only in parts ; 
others to be read, but not curiously ; 
and some few to be read wholly, and 
with diligence and attention." 



" Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers." 

FIFTY years ago, when schools 
were few and far between, hun- 
ger and thirst after knowledge 
seems to have actuated the young 
people who frequented them. Many 
of the pupils were inspired by lofty 
aims and a spirit of noble attainment ; 
and, like the modern athlete, they were 
willing to submit to a most exacting 
course of training. To-day it is diffi- 
cult to determine the motive that in- 
spires the masses of boys and girls who 
throng our schools and colleges, unless 
it be the pursuit of pleasure and 
amusement. And to this end various 
courses of study and numerous elec- 
tives render the way easy. 

The contrast is striking, indeed. 
When schools were rare and books 
scarce, good books and the best 
schools were sought for and appreci- 
ated. Of the endless mass of printed 
matter in circulation to-day, nothing is 
read " curiously " or to be remem- 
bered. The earth has become well 
known and common. " The nine- 
teenth century has revolutionized the 
world." Ours is the age of the crafts 
man and invented things, — the results 
of modern science. People are so 
busily engaged in trade, in manipu- 



262 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



lating the productions of inventive 
skill, they have no time — and what is 
worse, perhaps, no desire — for purely 
intellectual cultivation. 

Nor would we have all this far 
otherwise ; for it is doubtless true, as 
some one has said : " The boy of 
to-day knows hundreds of facts of 
nature and science, of which a wise 
man in 1800 had not dreamed; and 
he knows, also, how these facts can be 
used to man's advantage. He is 
likely to live longer, and is quite cer- 
tain to live better. The world, up to 
the last century, had continued sub- 
stantially the same from the days of 
Egypt and Babylon, so far as concerns 
the mastery of the forces of nature." 
Yet — and we speak in no spirit of 
condemnation or criticism of existing 
methods — in the midst of this acqui- 
sition of familiar acquaintance with 
acts, the forces of nature, and useful 
things galore, would that our schools 
might teach our children to cultivate 
habits of application, the concentra- 
tion of effort, and, also, inspire in them 
an earnest, enthusiastic purpose to 
pursue some one task, until it be well 
done ! 

IN a recent address to the 
wives of legislators on " House- 
hold Science," Mrs. Mary Wright 
Sewall declares : — 

" The men of America constitute the 
working class, as they are confined 
n shops and offices from early morn- 
ng until late at night; and the 
women are the leisure class, seeking 
diversion in amusements that do not 
amuse. 

" There is no home life [she con- 
tinues] in America, because women 
spend all their time in society and 



social duties. Women have a con- 
tempt for household work, the work 
which they hire others to do ; and not 
only do they dislike it, but they say 
with their lips that they do." " One 
reason for this state of affairs, as 
Mrs. Sewall sees it, is that the train- 
ing of the average person is too much 
on the intellectual side. There is an 
educational system in America that 
recognizes the mind, but not until it 
recognizes the body will it be com- 
plete." 

Statements like these are suggestive 
of inquiries : Upon whom does the 
responsibility of housekeeping rest ? 
Does woman fail to realize that the 
natural field of her activities is in the 
realm of house-making, and that, lack- 
ing a mission here, her reasonable 
course of life is only partially fulfilled ? 
Is it true or false that women are too 
fond of " amusements that do not 
amuse," and thus fail to give the same 
thought and attention to household 
affairs that men are accustomed to do 
in their respective vocations ? 

The time has come when training 
is requisite in preparation for any 
calling, as continued effort is the 
condition of successful achievement 
therein. To manage a household well 
requires one skilled in economy. The 
best methods of procedure in other 
lines of business must be observed 
and applied. Domestic science is but 
a single branch of economics. The 
laws that govern progress in one are 
applicable to all. The business of 
housekeeping differs in kind, only, 
from that of the office. In order to 
be equally successful, then, the affairs 
of the household must be conducted 
along lines similar to those that pre- 
vail in the office. 




After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 




" Whoso seeketh Wisdom shall have no 
door." 

" Every great man is always being helped 
things and all persons." — Beecher. 

THIS is Styled the age of spe- 
cialization. Let it be con- 
ceded. The specialist, how- 
ever, is apt to demand larger returns 
for his efforts than can be met by the 
average housekeeper. But, even when 
a money consideration does not stand 
in the way of calling in the aid of a 
specialist to decide how one's house 
shall be furnished or one's guests en- 
tertained, the individual home-maker 
needs be better informed in respect to 
these matters than the specialist him- 
self : otherwise how can proper service 
be recognized ? No housekeeper, un- 
less she be well informed in all the 
details of housekeeping, can afford to 
trust the health and reputation of her 
family to the tender mercies of the 
hired specialist. As a means of 
growth, consult the specialist, to be 
sure, and make it certain that he re- 
ceives his meed ; but, if one wishes to 
keep her own identity, let her not ac- 
cept nor follow out the suggestions of 
another simply because they are paid 
for. Individuality, guided by cultivated 
taste, is certain to receive the approval 
it deserves ; but, first of all, let us gain 
an intimate acquaintance with our oc- 
cupation, and persevere in the culti- 
vation of individual taste. 



great travail, for he shall find her sitting at his 
by everybody, for his gift is to get good out of all 

house-cleaning is now under way. 
The various drawers and receptacles 
in which linen is stowed have been 
carefully looked over and plenished ; 
and, whenever they are opened, the 
fresh odor of lavender, violet, or what- 
ever delicate odor my lady affects, is 
perceptible. Dainty table and bed 
linen, filmy laces and rare bits of 
china, are dear to every woman's 
heart. Just as certainly these things 
exert an influence on the higher life, 
as do the paintings of the masters, and 
the songs of the poets. 



The season of the semi-annual 



The English custom of serving five 
o'clock tea to the chance caller of an 
afternoon would be more frequently 
practised by the great body of Ameri- 
can housekeepers, if its service could 
be more easily conducted. The tiny 
tea-table seems too crowded to render 
the making and pouring of tea an 
agreeable effort ; but with the new 
device — table and tray combined — 
which has lately found favor in Eng- 
lish drawing-rooms, the service is ren- 
dered more simple. The " tray-table " 
is made of a light wood that takes 
the color and finish of ebony. It 
rests on the floor, and, without the 
handle by which it is carried from 
room to room or guest to guest, is of 
same height as an ordinary table. 



264 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



In general make up, it is really a 
series of three or four trays, held 
together by supports that serve for 
feet. The edge of each tray, whether 
plain or car\'ed in a filigree pattern, 
is raised an inch or two to insure the 
safety of the plates of sandwiches, 
wafers, or bonbons, which the occa- 
sion calls for, and for which ample 
space is provided. This leaves the 
little table free for the pouring of tea. 

Here the tea-ball — or the teaspoon 
on the same principle as the ball — is 
a convenience, when a single cup of tea 
is to be made at a time ; but, if sev- 
eral cups are to be served at once, the 
teapot with heat- confining cosey is 
called into requisition. The making 
of an attractive cosey affords another 
opportunity, by which the skilful 
needlewoman can express her artistic 
taste. 



When a dinner of ceremony is es- 
sayed, — and who does not attempt 
one occasionally? — the hostess will 
have need of all the bits of napery 
which the morning callers of many 
years have given the occasion to create. 
In connection with these, and if she 
be provided with a generous bank 
account, she will undoubtedly unroll 
from its resting-place a damask table 
cloth, work of art, so hea\y, so cun- 
ningly woven and carefully laundered, 
that the figures in the hunting scene 
depicted in its border stand out like 
those of a bas-relief. Or the damask 
may be woven to fit the table top, and 
be finished with a deep border of 



heavy hand-made lace, with an inter- 
lining of silk. An all-lace " cloth " 
over silk, of a shade that harmonizes 
with the general color scheme, is ad- 
missible, but the damask seems quite 
as appropriate for the serious business 
of dining. 

In this connection we might note 
that time was when fruit was thought 
to be a notable feature in table deco- 
rations ; but, at the present time, — 
save at Thanksgiving or harvest 
spreads, — fruit, except, perhaps, a 
basket of choice strawberries, or cher- 
ries with blossoms and leaves, seems 
no longer admissible for this purpose. 
Colored strips of velvet or satin em- 
broidered in colors are also tabooed. 
Ribbon is used occasionally, but not 
lavishly. The arrangement of this re- 
quires the touch of a master hand, or 
the effect is liable to be offensive. 



A word as to the dinner itself may 
be appreciated. A truly elegant dinner 
begins with soup. Hors d'ceuvres 
partake of the Bohemian character 
of the restaurant. Clear turtle and 
cream of asparagus are favorites at 
this season. These are followed by 
a choice of fish, one large, the other 
dressed as fillets, with a different 
sauce, and two entrees, one hot, the 
other cold, one being sweetbreads 
in some form. A saddle of lamb, 
the " bird course," — quails at this 
season. — with a salad and an ice 
(creams, jellies, and hot entremets 
being excluded), might close the din- 
ner of the season. 




Seasonable Recipes 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of 
such material. 



Cream of Asparagus 

Cook the tips cut from a bunch of 
asparagus in boihng salted water until 
tender, then remove to the soup 
tureen. Cook the rest of the stalks, 
nicely cleaned, and a slice of onion in 
the same water, adding a little, if 
needed. When tender, press the pulp 
through a sieve, using a wooden potato 
masher for this purpose and adding 
occasionally, a little of the water in 
which the vegetable was cooked, to 
expedite the process. Alake a sauce 
with one-fourth a cup, each, of flour 
and butter, the puree with hot water, 
chicken or veal stock added to make a 
full pint, and salt and pepper. When 
ready to serve, add one pint of scalded 
milk and, if at hand, the yolks of two 
eggs beaten and diluted with half a cup 
of cream. Cream-of-spinach and cream- 
of-peas are both palatable and sightly 
at this season. 



Brook Trout Fried 

Dress the fish, if small, without re- 
moving the heads. Egg-and-bread 
crumb, and fry from four to ten min- 
utes in hot fat. Arrange on a folded 
napkin, with a sprig or two of parsley. 
Serve with mayonnaise dressing, to a 
cup of which one tablespoonful, each, 
of chopped olives, cucumber pickles, 
and parsley has been added. To 
saute', dip in milk, then roll in flour, 
and cook in hot fat from salt pork. 

Baked Halibut Steaks 

Have two halibut steaks cut an inch 
and a half in thickness. Let stand in 
a marinade an hour or more. Lay 
thin slices of salt pork upon a fish 
sheet, and place one of the steaks 
upon the pork. Dip oysters — about 
half a pint will be required — in 
melted butter, then in cracker crumbs, 
and with these cover the entire sur- 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



face of the steak. Place the second 
steak upon the oysters, season, and lay 
slices of pork on the top. Bake thirty- 




Brook Trout 

five or forty minutes, basting three or 
four times with the juice in the pan, 
or with butter melted in hot water. 
A few minutes before the fish is to be 
taken from the oven, remove the pork, 
and cover the top with a cup of 
cracker crumbs that have been stirred 



the yolks of two, three, or four eggs, 
one at a time, according to the con- 
sistency desired, and beat into the 
butter thoroughly. Add one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of 
cayenne, and half a cup of boiling 
water, and cook in a double boiler, 
stirring constantly until the sauce 
thickens. Lift the saucepan from the 
water occasionally, lest the sauce 
curdle by over-cooking. Add the 
juice of half a lemon just before tak- 
ing from the fire. With two egg-yolks 
the sauce should have a creamy con- 
sistency. When four are used, it 
should have the consistency of mayon- 
naise dressing. 

Potatoes to serve with Fish 
Pass hot mashed potatoes through a 
ricer. Add a generous piece of butter, 
a little salt and hot milk or cream, as 
needed. Beat thoroughly, and press 
firmly into a buttered tin. Have the 
potato about half an inch thick. Cut 




Halibut Steak 



into one-third a cup of melted butter. 
Serve, when the crumbs are browned, 
with oyster, or HoUandaise sauce, and 
potato balls. 



HoUandaise Sauce 
Cream half a cup of butter. 



Add 



into diaomnd-shaped pieces, and score 
diagonally with a skewer dipped in 
melted butter. Brush over with the yolk 
of an egg beaten with a tablespoonful 
of milk, and brown in oven. Serve 
with a teaspoonful of peas, in a thick 
cream sauce, in the centre of each piece. 



Seasonable Recipes 



267 



Cucumber Salad for Fish Course 
With a handy slicer remove the out- 
side rind from the cucumbers, cut in 
thin slices, and let stand in ice-water 
to chill. Wipe dry. and arrange the 




Potatoes sened with Fish 

slices in the salad bowl in the form of 
a Greek cross. Make a French dress- 
ing in the proportion of three table- 
spoonfuls of cider vinegar to six table- 
spoonfuls of oil, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a dash of paprika. Rub the 
inside of the salad bowl with the cut 
side of an onion before the salad is 
disposed in it. 

Remnants of Ham with Asparagus 

Take equal quantities of cooked 
asparagus, cut into bits, and cold 
cooked ham cut into small cubes. For 
each cup of material make a sauce of 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and 
flour, a cup of the liquid in which the 
asparagus was cooked, a teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, with salt and nutmeg 
to taste. Add two beaten eggs, also 
the ham and asparagus. Turn into 
individual casseroles, or cups, buttered : 
cover the tops with buttered cracker 
crumbs, and bake in oven to a golden 
brown. Serve in the casseroles as a 
luncheon dish, or as an entree. 

Lobster Salad 
Cut the meat from a lobster into 
cubes, and add enough whites of 
cooked eggs, also cut in cubes, to equal 



one-eighth the bulk. Season with 
French dressing, and fashion on a 
salad plate into an oblong shape about 
the size of a lobster. Press the tail 
shell of ihe lobster into one end of the 
salad and the head shell into the other 
end. Mask the salad with mayonnaise 
dressing. Make rings of cooked egg, 
fine chopped, at the joints of shell and 
salad, also two other rings between 
these. Garnish these rings with figures 
cut from pickled beet, and the ends 
of the dish with lettuce-leaves, hold- 
ing mayonnaise dressing dotted with 
capers. 

Veal Rolls a la Jardiniere 
Cut veal from the leg in very thin 
slices. With a wooden mallet pound 
the slices to one-fourth an inch in 
thickness, cut in pieces three by live 
inches, and chop the trimmings with 
one-eighth as much of bacon or fat 
salt pork. Add half as much, by meas- 
ure, of fresh bread crumbs as meat. 
season with onion juice, paprika, 
lemon iuice. salt, and the stems of a 




Cucumber Salad 

dozen mushrooms chopped and saute'd 
in butter. Add a beaten egg. and 
stock, or water, to make the whole as 
moist as possible and still hold its shape. 
Spread each slice wi:h the forcemeat 
nearlv to the ed2:e, roll tightlv, and 



268 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



tie or fasten with small buttered 
skewers. Shape the remaining mixt- 
ure into balls. Dredge both rolls and 
balls with salt, pepper, and fiour, and 
saute to a light brown in hot bacon fat 
or butter. Half cover with stock or 
thin cream, and let simmer about forty- 
five minutes, or until tender. Mean- 
while boil cauliflower and potatoes, 
heat canned peas, saute' a dozen mush- 
room caps, wiped and peeled, and cook 
ten minutes in a little cream. Mash 
the potatoes, season and shape into a 
platform, upon a serving-dish of suit- 
able size to hold the rolls. Dispose 
the rolls upon this and the vegeta- 
bles and balls around. Mix the mush- 
room cream with the sauce in the fry- 
ing-pan, and serve in a dish apart. 

Devilled Oysters 
Chop one quart of oysters ; add one 



taste, also mustard, if desired. Heat 
over the fire, then add four raw eggs 
slightly beaten, and, when thoroughly 
mixed, turn into buttered shells or 
paper cases. Cover with one cup of 
cracker crumbs stirred into one-fourth 
a cup of melted butter. Set into the 
oven long enough to brown the 
crumbs. 

Spinach Balls 

{Adapted from " Golden Age Cook Book " 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
half a teaspoonful of sugar. When 
blended, add a tablespoonful of cream 
and three-fourths a cup of cooked 
spinach, chopped fine. Beat well, re- 
move from the fire, and add two eggs, 
one at a time. Season with salt and 
pepper, to taste, and a few grains of 
mace. Butter a tablespoon and fill 




Veal Rolls a la Jardiniere 



pint of soft bread crumbs (more if 
the mixture seems too soft), one table- 
spoonful of grated onion, one table- 
spoonful of lemon juice, one-fourth a 
cup of butter, and salt and pepper to 



with the spinach mixture, making it 
level with the edge of the spoon, and 
poach in a saucepan of boiling water 
four or five minutes or until firm. The 
water must not boil hard, but simply 



Seasonable Recipes 



269 



simmer very gently at one side. Six 
or more balls may be cooked at one 
time. Let drain in a colander while 
making a cream sauce ; reheat the 
balls in the sauce, and serve. In the 
half tone a teaspoonful of the sauce 
with three or four capers was placed 



in small buttered tins in a very hot 
oven. 

Moulded Macaroni and Cheese 
Cook three-fourths a cup of maca- 
roni, broken in small pieces, in rapidly 
boiling salted water half an hour. 




Spinach Balh 



on the top of each ball, and the rest of 
the sauce poured around the balls. 

Saratoga Corn Cake 

Sift together two cups of pastry 
flour, one cup and a half of granulated 
yellow corn-meal, half a cup of sugar, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and one tea- 
spoonful of soda. Beat two eggs with- 
out separating, add two cups of thick 
sour milk and three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, and stir into the dry 
mixture. Beat thoroughly, and bake 
in a large shallow pan from twenty to 
twenty-five minutes. 

Newport Tea Cakes (Popovers) 

Sift together three cups of sifted 
flour and a teaspoonful of salt. Beat 
the yolks of three eggs until very light. 
Add one pint of milk, and stir into the 
■dry ingredients. Then beat in the 
whites of three eggs beaten dry. Bake 



Drain, then add a cup of milk, and 
cook until the milk is absorbed ; then 
stir into one cup of white sauce (use 
three tablespoonfuls of flour in making 
the sauce), add two tablespoonfuls or 
more of grated cheese, and, when 
cooled a little, one egg beaten until 
light. Turn into a buttered border 
mould sprinkled with bread crumbs, 
and poach, standing in a pan of hot 
water, about twenty-five minutes. Turn 
from the mould, and fill the centre 
with tomatoes stewed with mushrooms. 

Chocolate Cake 
Ingredients : half a cup of butter, 
one cup and a half of sugar, four eggs, 
half a cup of milk, one teaspoonful of 
vanilla, two teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, one cup and three-fourths of 
flour, and four ounces of chocolate, 
dissolved in five tablespoonfuls of boil- 
ing water. Add the dissolved choco- 



270 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



late after the yolks have been added 
to the butter and sugar creamed to- 
gether, then finish as usual. Bake in 
a large sheet thirty to forty minutes. 
Frost with boiled icing. 

Cream Sponge Cake 

Beat the yolks of four eggs until 
light. Add gradually one cup of sugar, 
and, alternately, half a cup of double 
cream and two cups of flour sifted with 
half a teaspoonful of soda and two 
level teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. 
Add a grating of lemon rind and the 
stiff-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake 
in a loaf about forty minutes. 

Quick Loaf Cake 

Mix the following ingredients accord- 
ing to the directions given for mixing 



Fig Souffle, Boiled Custard 

Beat the whites of five eggs until 
foamy. Add one- fourth a teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar, and beat until dry. 
Then add, very gradually, five level 
tablespoonfuls of fine granulated sugar, 
beating constantly, and one-fourth a 
pound of figs cooked until tender and 
chopped very fine. Also the liquid in 
which they were cooked, reduced to 
two or three tablespoonfuls, may be 
added. Then fold in three level table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Turn into a well- 
buttered mould, and let cook, standing 
on a trivet, or fold of paper, about half 
an hour. Turn from the mould, and 
serve with a cold boiled custard. The 
pudding may also be served cold, or it 
may be reheated in the mould in the 




Fig Souffle, 

cake in the October-November issue of 
this magazine : one cup and a half of 
butter, three cups of sugar, five cups 
of flour, one cup of milk, four eggs, 
one teaspoonful of soda, four level 
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, and 
one wine-glass of wine. By many, 
citron, raisins, currants, and spices are 
thought to improve this cake. Bake 
in a loaf about one hour and a half in 
oven at about the same temperature as 
for bread. 



Boiled Custard' 

same manner as it was first cooked. 
Cooked dates or prunes may be substi- 
tuted for the figs. 

Boiled' Custard 
Beat the yolks of five eggs slightly. 
Add a scant half a cup of sugar and a 
few grains of salt, and beat again. 
Pour over the mixture one pint (gener- 
ous measure) of hot milk. Then re- 
turn to the double boiler, and stir and 
cook until the mixture coats the spoon. 



Seasonable Recipes 



271 



Rhubarb Jelly with Almonds 

Soak one-fourth a package of gela- 
tine in one-fourth a cup of cold water, 
and turn into a pint of baked rhubarb. 
Add the juice of half a lemon and one 



let stand buried in equal parts of ice 
and salt three or four hours. 

Orange Jelly 
Soften half a package of gelatine in 
half a cup of cold water. Add half a 




Pineapple Mousse with Orange Jelly 



ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and 
split in halves. In cooking the rhu- 
barb, add only a few spoonfuls of water, 
just enough to keep the sugar from 
burning, until the juice begins to flow. 
Use about a cup of sugar to a pound 
of stalks. Bake only until tender, to 
keep the pieces whole. 

Pineapple Mousse with Orange 

Jelly 
Decorate the bottom of a chilled 
mould with candied cherries. Cover 
with liquid orange jelly, and set aside 
to become firm. Mix one pint of thick 
cream, three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
and a cup of pineapple juice scalded 
and cooled. Whip very light. Turn 
into the mould, filling to overflow. 
Press the cover down over paper, and 



cup of boiling water and one cup of 
sugar. When the liquid is cool and 
the sugar is dissolved, strain over the 
juice of a lemon and one pint of orange 
juice. Less than half the recipe will 
be sufficient to use in the mould with 
the pineapple mousse. 

Pistachio Ice-cream 
Crush two ounces of pistachio nuts 
very fine and smooth in a mortar. Let 
heat in a quart of milk and a cup of 
double cream to a temperature not 
above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Re- 
move from the fire, and stir in one 
tablespoonful of vanilla extract, a tea- 
spoonful of almond extract, and one 
junket tablet crushed and dissolved in 
one tablespoonful of cold water. Let 
stand undisturbed in warm room ten 



272 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



or fifteen minutes. Then pour the 
jelHed mixture into the can of the 
freezer, and freeze as usual. When 
well frozen, add sufficient leaf-green 
v^egetable color to tint a delicate color. 

Chocolate Ice-cream, Vanilla 
Sauce 

Scald one quart of milk with two 
inches of cinnamon bark. Beat the 
yolks of six eggs. Add one cup and a 
half of sugar and a few grains of salt, 
and cook in the hot milk until the mixt- 
ure coats the spoon. Add three squares 
of melted chocolate that has been 
cooked slightly, with two tablespoon - 
fuls of sugar, a few tablespoonfuls 
of hot water and one pint of cream. 
Strain, and, when cool, add one table- 
spoonful and a half of vanilla extract. 
When frozen, pack in brick moulds. 
Cover with a piece of wrapping paper, 
and let stand packed in four parts of 
ice to one of salt an hour or more. In 
serving, pour over each slice a little 

Vanilla Sauce 
Cook two cups of water and one cup 



of sugar ten minutes. Add one tea- 
spoonful of gelatine softened in three 
tablespoonfuls of cold water, strain, and 
chill. When ready to use, add one 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract and the 
juice of half a lemon. 

Grape Cream with Pistachio Nuts 
(Lavender and Green) 
To one pint of double cream add 
three-fourths a cup, each, of grape 
juice and sugar and the juice of half 
a lemon. Whisk until solid to the bot- 
tom of the bowl, then fill into paper 
cases. Decorate with blanched pis- 
tachio nuts cut in halves. A scant 
tablespoonful of gelatine, softened in 
cold water and dissolved over the tea- 
kettle, may be added to the grape 
juice if the cream is light. 

Pineapple Cream 
Beat half a cup of butter and one 
cup of sugar to a cream. Stir in half a 
pound of grated pineapple, half a cup 
of milk and two small eggs, beaten until 
well mixed. Bake with or without an 
undercrust. 




Grape Cream with Pistachio Nuts (Lavender and Green) 



Menus for Easter Tide 

Wedding Breakfast — 25 Guests. (Color Scheme, Green and White.) 

^tgljt's canlilcs are burnt out, anti jocunti Hag 
Stantis tiptoe on ti}e mistg mountain tops. 

— Romeo and yuliet. 

Consomme, with Chicken Quenelles and Peas. 

Oyster Croquettes (Egg-shaped), Cucumbers. 

Braised Sweetbreads, Asparagus Tips. 

Fillets of Beef Tenderloin, Brown Mushroom Sauce. 

Pineapple-and-celery Salad, 

Green Mayonnaise, with Pistachio Nuts. 

Pistachio-and-vanilla Ice-cream (Junket) in Meringue Shells. 

Assorted Cakes. Coffee. 



Easter Dinner. [Yellow Color Scheme,) 

Saffotiils, 
^fjat come before ttje sballohi Dares, anti take 
Ci)e toiutis of fHarci} toitJ) teautg. 

Cream of Spinach. Consomme a la Royal. 

PiM Olas. 

Brook Trout, Fried, Sauce Tartare. 

Potato Croquettes (Egg-shaped), Peas in Cream Sauce in Centre. 

Asparagus in Puff-paste Patties, Egg Yolks. 

Crown of Lamb, Mint Sauce. 

Bernhardt Potatoes. Banana Fritters, Orange Sauce. 

Lettuce. Edam Cheese. Water Crackers. 

Pineapple Mousse, with Orange Jelly. 

Assorted Cakes. Caf£ Noir. 



Menus for One Week JHa^ 

{Vegetarian Dishes, including Eggs, Milk, and Cheese^ 
Whatever pleases the palate nourishes. — Ajicient Maxim. 



breakfast 

Vitos. Figs. Cream. 

Zwieback. Cocoa. 

'^nner 

Vegetable Consomme. 

Entire-wheat Bread Sticks. 

Asparagus Loaf, Cream Sauce. 

Saratoga Chips. 

Lettuce, Tomato Jelly. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Strawberries. Cake. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Eggs in Curry Sauce. Dry Toast. 

Rhubarb and Almond Jelly. 

Wafers. Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Bananas, Cream. 

Fried Mock Oysters (Komlet). Radishes. 

Zwieback. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Spinach Timbales. 

Cream Sauce a la Royal. 

Baked Rhubarb and Raisins. 

Puff-paste Points. Tea. 

'Thinner 

Cream of Rice Soup. 

Boston Baked Beans in Indi\'idual Bean Pots. 

Beets Stuffed with Cucumber Salad. 

Rye Bread and Butter. 

Pineapple Sherbet. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Gluten Grits. Stewed Peaches (dried), Cream. 

Eggs with Brown Butter. 

French Fried Potatoes. Corn-meal Puffs. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Spinach Balls, Caper Sauce. 

Entire-wheat Biscuit. 

Baked Bananas, Lemon Sauce. 

Tea. 

^nner 

Puree of Lima Beans (dried). 

Macaroni and Cheese Croquettes. 

Moulded Spinach-and-Mushroom Salad. 

Sauce Tartare. 
Maple Custard. Cereal Coffee. 



breakfast 

Ralston Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Stewed Prunes. 

Eggs Scrambled with Spinach. 

Vitos Muffins. Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Salad of Baked Beans 

with French Dressing. Olives. 

Toasted Muffins. Cottage Pudding, 

Foamy Sauce. Tea. 

"l^inner 

Moulded Macaroni and Cheese. 

Tomatoes Stewed with Mushrooms. 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Chocolate Bavariose. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 
Old Gristmill Toasted Wheat. 

Dates, Cream. 

Eggs poached in Pimentos. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Rice Waffles, Maple Sj-rup. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce-and-Lima Bean Salad. 

Boston Brown Bread and Butter. 

Corn-starch Pudding, Chocolate Sauce. 

Tea. 

"Dinner 

Cream of Potato Soup, Croutons. 

Cheese Souffle. Beet Greens. 

Sugared Pineapple. Hot Boiled Rice. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Omelet with Asparagus. Rhode Island Com Cake. 

Oranges. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Komlet Soup. Browned Crackers. 

Rhubarb Pie. 

Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Baked Bean Soup. Browned Crackers. 

Nut Loaf, Brown Sauce. Pim Olas. 

Cabbage and Cheese au Gratin. 

Lettuce and Peppergrass Salad. 

Pineapple Tapioca Pudding, Cream. 

Cereal Coffee. 



X 

a 

> 



breakfast 

Old GristmUl Rolled Wheat, 

Cream. Poached Eggs on Toast. 

Potatoes in Cream Sauce. 

Fried Rice, Maple Syrup. 

Coffee. 



'Dinner 

Cream of Asparagus. 

Guochi a la Romain. 

Cole Slaw. 

Fig Floating Island. 

Cake. Cereal Coffee. 



Supper 

Milk Toast. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

Sliced Bananas. 

Tea. 



In Reference to Menus and Recipes 



" Please state whether, according to the 
most advanced theories of scientists, a 
diet which omits animal flesh is really 
conducive to better health and greater 
vigor and strength of body and mind. 
We crave meat and yet are anxious to 
limit ourselves to the best diet for health 
that is compatible with economy." 

Volumes have been written pro and 
con both a flesh and a fleshless diet, 
and it is unquestionable that authorities 
stand firm in their advocacy of either 
the one or the other diet. In practice, 
often the matter will be decided by 
one's individual idiosyncrasies. 

Theoretically, man's digestive sys- 
tem would indicate that his food was 
not to be taken exclusively from either 
the animal or the vegetable kingdom. 
The two great food principles, proteid 
and carbohydrate, which must of ne- 
cessity be supplied in our food, are 
both found in the vegetable kingdom ; 
but the proteid is in very minute quan- 
tities, and, besides, it is not in a con- 
dition to be as quickly metabolized, or 
changed into body substance, as is the 
protein of eggs, fish, and meat. And, 
if the proteid be supplied entirely from 
the vegetable kingdom, the bulk of 
food required is too large ; but, if milk, 
cheese, and eggs be added, thus sup- 
plying this principle in a more con- 
centrated form, it would seem that 
everything was included to give an 
ideal dietary. For, while we have 
learned to look with favor upon a 
tender, well-browned steak or roast, 
health and strength can certainly be 
maintained without them. 

The matter may be presented in an- 
other form. For proper maintenance 
of health and strength a certain quan- 
tity of nutritive material must be in- 



gested daily. The nutritive value of 
any given food-stuff is measured by 
the amount of heat liberated during 
its oxidation into those chemical com- 
binations in which it is to leave the 
organism. 

The unit of measurement is the cal- 
orie : this is equivalent to the quantity 
of heat necessary to raise one kilo- 
gram (2.2046 lbs.) of water i degree 
Centigrade. A gram of albumen fur- 
nishes 4.1 calories, a gram of carbo- 
hydrate 4.1, and a gram of fat 9.3 
calories. Hence, in choosing food 
from the vegetable kingdom, if vege- 
table fat can be assimilated by the 
individual, this may be used, thus cut- 
ting down materially, on account of its 
high food value, the bulk of food. At 
the same time it cannot take the place 
of proteid. 

Regarded from a scientific stand- 
point, an average dietary calls for 
food capable of supplying about 2,500 
calories ; thus a little more than two 
pounds of bread, 1,205 calories per 
pound, would supply the requisite food 
value. About five and a half pounds 
of potatoes, 475 calories per pound, 
might be substituted for the bread. 
Both of these articles get their high 
fuel value from the starch they con- 
tain. Neither is a representative food, 
nor can the proper combination of 
food principles be perfectly secured in 
any one article. An average dietary 
for an individual, weighing about 154 
pounds, should contain about 118 
grams of albumen, four times as many 
grams of carbohydrates, and as many 
grams of fat as will produce calories 
equal to those produced by the albu- 
men, in this case 56 grams. This 



276 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



might be supplied in seven eggs, about 
three-fourths a cup of cream, and a 
little less than one pound and a fourth 
of bread, — about 20 slices. 

In our vegetarian menus we have 
included eggs. In many dishes these 
appear in combination with vegetables, 
as in spinach timbales and balls, aspar- 
agus loaf, cheese souffle', mould of 
macaroni, etc. These are the pieces de 
resistance of the meal, those that sup- 
ply in large measure the nitrogenous 
element, without which it is impossible 
to maintain life. 

As the solubility — that is, digesti- 
bility — of albumen, its principal com- 
pound, is impaired by improper cook- 
ing, it is well, perhaps, at this time to 
call attention again to its cooking. All 
these dishes and similar dishes are 
cooked by "poaching." We speak of 
poached eggs, or eggs cooked in water 
after they have been taken from the 
shell without disturbing the contents 
of the egg ; but we have come to apply 
the term "poaching" to the cooking 
of all articles containing eggs, either in 
the oven or on the top of the range, in 
dishes that are surrounded with hot 
Avater. Two things will insure per- 
fectly cooked articles : the dish con- 
taining the food should be set on a 
trivet, — a piece of folded paper an- 
swers the purpose admirably, — that it 
may not come in contact with the ves- 
sel containing the heated water ; sec- 
ond, the water in which the cooking is 



to be done should be at the boiling- 
point, when it is poured about the dish 
containing the food, but it should not 
be allowed to boil thereafter. 



The Menus for Easter-tide 

Prepare the chicken quenelles for 
the soup by the recipe given on page 
223, February-March number. Shape 
them with a lady finger or even a 
smaller-sized tube. They may be 
shaped and poached in hot water 
some time before serving, and then re- 
heated at time of serving. 

In making the thick sauce for the 
oyster croquettes, use chicken stock. 
Then, upon cooling, the mixture will be 
firm and easily shaped. Parboil and 
drain the oysters, then cut into small 
pieces before adding to the sauce. 

Arrange the cucumbers as in the 
half-tone for cucumber salad. 

To a cup of mayonnaise dressing, 
served with the pineapple and celery 
salad, add one-fourth a cup of pounded 
pistachio nuts, and, if needed, a drop 
or two of liquid color to secure a deli- 
cate green tint. Dispose the salad on 
a round dish, and in the centre place 
a small round slice of pineapple from 
which the, core has been taken. Fill 
the space occupied by the core with 
mayonnaise, and decorate this with 
halved pistachio nuts. 

In the dinner menus sift hard-boiled 
yolk of eggs over the asparagus with 
which the patties are filled. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to cuUnary science and domestic economics in 
general, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must 
reach us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to 
appear. In letters requesting answer by maO, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. 
Address queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking- School Magazine, 372 Boylston 
Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 447. — Mrs. G. W. P., Denver, 
Col. : " Kindly give recipe for blushing 
apples with orange sauce. Also in the 
directions for oatmeal biscuit what is 
meant by ' let rise twice ' and what brand 
of oatmeal do you use." 

Blushing Apples with Orange 
Sauce 

With an apple-corer remove the 
cores from six or eight bright red 
apples. Let cook until tender in boil- 
ing water, turning often to retain the 
shape. Remove from the water with 
a skimmer, cut the skin on opposite 
sides, and remove carefully. With a 
spoon scrape off the red pulp adher- 
ing closely to the inside of the skin, 
and replace on opposite sides of the 
apple. Serve hot with a sauce made 
by boiling one cup of sugar and the 
juice of two oranges five or six 
minutes. A little grated rind may be 
added. Whipped cream passed at the 
same time makes the dish quite elab- 
orate. 

Oatmeal Biscuit 
Pour the hot milk onto the un- 
cooked oatmeal (Quaker, Ralston's, 
and Pillsbury's are good) and add the 
butter, and, when cooled sufficiently. 



the yeast and flour. Mix as usual, and, 
when light, cut down (not knead), and 
put into the moulds. Bake when again 
light. 



Query 448-— J- ^^f- S., Boston: 
•' Kindly print a list of foods, meats, 
drinks, vegetables, which can be safely 
eaten by one inclined to grow fat and 
who can take little exercise. I live now 
on gluten bread, hot water, some meats, 
and a little fish: use neither sugar nor 
starch, and would like a little more variety. 
Have no diabetic trouble." 

Anti-fat Diet 

Fat in the body is accumulated 
chiefly by indulgence in the carbohy- 
drates (fat, starch, and sugar), though 
some fat is formed from the albumi- 
noids. The corpulent should avoid 
as far as possible food containing fat, 
starch, and sugar, and eat no more of 
any kind of food than is necessary to 
maintain health and strength. Mas- 
sage will be beneficial, as, also, fre- 
quent bathing and rubbing. One who 
has reached full stature and takes little 
exercise requires less food than is 
generally supposed. Such vegetables 
as spinach, string beans, lettuce, celery, 
tomatoes, cabbage, asparagus, turnips, 
cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, the 



278 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



white of eggs, lean meat, white fish, 
white meat of poultry, clear, un- 
thickened soups, coffee from the berry 
without cream or sugar, cocoa, not 
chocolate, made with hot water and 
sweetened with saccharine, and fruit 
juices (lemon, orange, and pineapple) 
are among the articles indicated for a 
proper diet under the conditions men- 
tioned. In this and in all similar 
cases we know too little of the condi- 
tions to advise with assurance. Con- 
sult a physician who makes a specialty 
of treating patients through diet rather 
than drugs, and beneficent results are 
sure to follow. 



Query 449. — Mrs. G. W. P., Denver, 
Col. : " Recipe for chops with chestnuts. 
The chestnuts are whole, very tender, and 
with a sauce." 

Chops with Chestnuts 
Remove the shells and blanch the 
nuts as directed on page 233, Febru- 
ary-March number of this magazine. 
Then simmer in well-seasoned broth 
until tender. When cooked, there 
should be an equal measure of nuts 
and broth. For a cup of broth cream 
together two tablespoonfuls, each, of 
butter and flour, and stir into the boil- 
ing liquid. Let simmer ten minutes, 
then pour the whole over the chops 
broiled in the usual manner. If a 
brown sauce be preferred, brown two 
slices, each, of onion and carrot in a 
tablespoonful of butter, then add the 
nuts and brown stock, and thicken 
with nut-brown flour. 



Query 450. — Mrs. E. G., Ottawa, 
Wis. : " Where can I purchase a timbale 
iron? Kindly give recipe for batter, and 
state with what the little cups are filled. 
Also give recipes for mayonnaise dressing 
made of butter, and for fruit sherbet." 



Timbale Irons and Batter 

Timbale irons are advertised in the 
magazine. They can be purchased at 
most kitchen-furnishing stores. 

Batter for Swedish Timbale 
Cases 
Sift together three-fourths a cup of 
flour and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Mix to a batter, with one egg beaten 
and diluted with half a cup of milk. 
When smooth, beat in a tablespoonful 
of olive oil, and set aside, covered, for 
several hours before using. Hold the 
iron in the fat that has been heated 
almost to the smoking-point, and, when 
hot, dip into the batter to three-fourths 
its height, then into the hot fat until 
the timbale is delicately browned. If 
the batter be too thick, the timbales 
will lack crispness, and more milk 
needs be added. With a little expe- 
rience, one can readily learn to dip 
the iron into the batter so that in 
cooking it will rise just to the top of 
the iron : otherwise, trim the tops of 
the cases with a sharp knife. Fill with 
cooked chicken, veal, sweetbreads, 
mushrooms, or fish, cut in cubes and 
mixed with cream, Bechamel, or brown 
sauce. Parboiled oysters, with sauce, 
are a favorite filling. 

Boiled Dressing 
Mayonnaise dressing is made with 
oil. It is a seasoned emulsion of oil, 
slightly acidulated with lemon juice or 
vinegar. A "boiled dressing," proba- 
bly, is desired. Mix together a tea- 
spoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of paprika. Add the yolks of three 
eggs, and, when beaten with the other 
ingredients, also four tablespoonfuls, 



Queries and Answers 



279 



each, of butter and vinegar, or lemon 
juice, or half of each. Then cook 
over hot water, stirring constantly 
until thickened. When cool and ready 
to serve, add half a cup of thick cream, 
beaten stiff. 

Strawberry Sherbet 

Boil together one quart of water and 
one pint of sugar fifteen minutes. Add 
a teaspoonf ul of softened gelatine ; 
and, when cold, strain over one pint 
of strawberry juice and the juice of a 
lemon. Freeze in the usual manner. 
For orange sherbet use a pint of 
orange juice and the juice of a lemon. 
For lemon sherbet, one cup of lemon 
juice. 

Query 451. — Mrs. G., Fitchburg: 
" Recipe for ' Election Cake,' a ' raised ' 
loaf cake, yellow in color and containing 
fruit and wine." 

Old Hartford Election Cake (100 
Years Old) 

Rub two pounds of butter into five 
pounds of flour. Add one pound of 
sugar, then three gills of distillery 
yeast, one pint of milk, four eggs well 
beaten, a gill (half a cup) of wine, and 
another pint of milk. Beat well, and 
let stand to rise all night. In the 
morning add a gill of brandy, another 
pound of sugar, and half an ounce of 
nutmegs. Let rise until very light, 
then put into the pans alternately with 
a sprinkling of a pound, each, of cur- 
rants and seeded raisins. A pound of 
citron, cut fine, may also be added. 
Use one cake of compressed yeast or 
one dry yeast cake, softened in a cup 
of lukewarm water, when distillery 
yeast is not procurable. 



Query 452. — E. P., Columbus, Ohio: 
Kindly give recipes for cranberry granite 



and Baltimore samp with cream sauce. 
Is samp what Ohioans call grits or fine 
hominy ? Also give recipe for ' Coupe 
Jacques,' as served in fashionable restau- 
rants in New York."' 

Cranberry Granite 
Boil one quart of cranberries in 
three cups of water five or six minutes. 
Then pass through a fine sieve, press- 
ing out the pulp. Add one pint of 
sugar, stirring until dissolved, and, 
when cold, the juice of two lemons. 
Freeze to a mush. 

Baltimore Samp with Cream 
Sauce 

Baltimore samp is made of white 
corn. It is very much coarser than 
grits or fine hominy. Cover the samp 
with boiling water, let boil five or 
six minutes, then drain and rinse. 
Cover again with boiling water, and 
let cook on the back of the range all 
day, adding boiling water as needed, 
and shaking the dish occasionally 
to prevent scorching. When nearly 
cooked, add a teaspoonful of salt for 
each quart of samp. To serve as a 
vegetable, reheat a cup of the samp 
in a cup of hot white sauce made of 
cream or rich milk. Add also a scant 
tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley 
or two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. 

Coupe Jacques (Ranhofer) 

Lay in a vessel one peeled banana, 
cut in half-inch squares, one well- 
peeled orange, having the meats lying 
between the intersections removed 
with a knife and all the seeds sup- 
pressed, a slice of pineapple half an 
inch thick, cut in dice, four ounces of 
grapes, two ounces of strawberries or 
raspberries, four ounces of cherries, 
pears, or peaches, half a gill of kirsch 



aSo 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



or maraschino, and a little powdered 
sugar. Mingle all together, and keep 
cold in the can of a freezer, with ice 
packed around. To serve, fill wide 
champagne cups with this 7?iace(ioi?ie, 
cover the ^naddoine with fruit sherbet 
(orange, lemon, or pineapple) flavored 
to taste with kirsch or maraschino. 



Query 453. — Miss H. A. A., Oshkosh, 
Wis. : " Recipes for pork cake and sweet 
citron pickles." 

Citron Sweet Pickles 
Cut the citron in slices, and. then 
in smaller pieces, removing the skins 
and seeds. Let stand over night in 
salt and water. Drain and cook until 
nearly tender in fresh water. Drain 
again, and put over the fire in a syrup 
made of four pounds of sugar and one 
pint of vinegar to nine pounds of 
fruit. Add a few sticks of cinnamon, 
a tablespoonful of cloves, and a blade 
or two of mace. Let cook until trans- 
parent and tender. Store in jars. 
Reduce the syrup, if needed, before 
pouring it over the citron. 



Query 454. — Mrs. B. A. W., Worces- 
ter, Mass. : " Reliable recipe for whole 
wheat bread." 

Whole Wheat Bread 
To a pint of scalded and cooled 
milk, or boiled water, or half and half 
of each, add from one-third to one 
whole cake of compressed yeast, 
softened in half a cup of lukewarm 
liquid, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
one teaspoonful of salt, five cups of 
entire wheat flour, and one cup of 
white flour. Mix with a knife, and 
add white flour, little by little, until 
the dough is of a consistency to knead. 
(It should be a pretty firm dough. 
There is danger of using too little 



rather than too much flour.) Knead 
about fifteen minutes, and set aside 
until light. Where compressed yeast 
is not available, use a cake of dry 
yeast, many brands of which are upon 
the market. For full particulars of 
bread-making, consult the last two 
issues of this magazine. 



Query 455. — Mrs. A. F. B., Medford, 
Mass. : " Kindly give a recipe for bread 
made with water, also for raised Graham 
biscuit." 

Water Bread 
Soften a cake of yeast in half a cup 
of lukewarm water, then stir into it 
enough flour to make a very stiff 
dough (nearly two cups). Knead 
thoroughly, shaping into a ball. Make 
two cuts on the top about one-fourth 
an inch deep, then place the paste 
in a small saucepan of tepid water, the 
cut side up. In a few minutes it will 
begin to swell and float on the top of 
the water. When quite light, remove 
with a skimmer to a bowl containing 
half a cup of lukewarm water and a 
scant half teaspoonful of salt. Stir in 
enough flour to make a dough stiff 
enough to knead, — nearly two cups, — 
and let stand in a temperature of about 
68 degrees Fahrenheit until light. 
Then shape into a loaf, and, when again 
light, bake. 

Water Bread No. 1 
A recipe for bread is given on page 
201, February-March number. Under 
" Proportions of the Ingredients " sub- 
stitute the word ''water" for the word 
" liquid," and proceed. 

Raised Graham Biscuit 
Soften one-fourth to one whole cake 
of yeast (according to the time that 



Queries and Answers 



2«I 



can be given to the rising) in half a 
cup of lukewarm water. Add to two 
cups of lukewarm water. Stir in white 
flour to make a sponge (about three 
cups). When light, add one-fourth a 
cup of softened butter, one-third a cup 
of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and 
sifted Graham flour to knead, about 
four cups. Knead at least fifteen 
minutes, — a longer time is better. Let 
rise, and shape into biscuit. When 
again light, bake in a hot oven. Brush 
over the tops of the biscuit with sugar 
melted in milk before putting into the 
oven. 

Query 456. — G. U. : " Recipes for 
oyster gumbo, mock turtle, and ox-tail 
soups. What publication is there contain- 
ing recipes for French, German, and 
Italian cooking? " 

Oyster Gumbo Soup 

Cook one-fourth a pound of salt 
pork, cut in bits, one-third a cup of 
shallots, or a small onion, chopped, 
until of a delicate brown color. Add 
one-third a cup of flour, and, when 
well blended with the fat, add one 
quart of water, one quart of veal 
broth, a green pepper cut small, two 
or three sprigs of parsley, two blades 
of mace, and two stalks of celery. Let 
simmer gently forty minutes, then add 
three dozen oysters and the strained 
liquor. When the oysters look plump 
and the soup is at the boiling-point, 
remove the celery, mace, and parsley, 
which should have been tied together, 
and skim thoroughly. Then sprinkle 
slowly into the soup half a cup of 
gumbo powder, stirring constantly; 
add also two teaspoonfuls or more of 
salt. Pass with the soup a dish of 
plain boiled rice. A quart of fresh 
okra pods cut in pieces may be sauted 
in the onion and then cooked until 



tender in the broth and water, and the 
gumbo powder omitted. 

Mock Turtle Soup 
Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Cook in this one-fourth a cup of flour, 
then add gradually one quart of 
well-reduced and high-seasoned stock 
made of a calf's head. When again 
boiling, add one cup of tomato puree, 
— tomatoes stewed and passed through 
a sieve. Let simmer ten or fifteen 
minutes, then add one cup of head 
meat cut in small squares, a dozen or 
more egg balls, half a dozen lemon 
slices cut as thin as possible, and 
sherry, salt, and pepper to taste. 

Ox-tail Soup 

Separate an ox-tail into pieces at 
the joints. Saute with a small onion, 
sliced, in two tablespoonfuls of fat 
from the top of a dish of stock or fat 
from salt pork. Add a quart of water 
or light stock (trimmings of meat, etc.), 
and turn the whole into the soup-kettle. 
Add another quart of liquid, a stalk 
of celery, a few sprigs of parsley, six 
peppercorns, two cloves, and, at discre- 
tion, one-fourth a cup, each, of turnip 
and carrot cubes. Let the liquid 
come to the boiling-point, then simmer 
four or five hours or until the meat is 
tender. Remove the best pieces of 
the ox-tail to serve in the soup, then 
strain, remove the fat, reheat, and pour 
over the pieces in the tureen. 

Egg Balls 
Pass the cooked yolks of three hard 
boiled eggs through a sieve. Add a 
few grains of salt and pepper, half 
a teaspoonful of melted butter, and 
enough of the raw yolk of one egg to 
make the mixture of a consistency to 



282 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



handle. Shape in small balls, roll in 
white of egg, then in flour, and saute 
in butter or poach in hot water two or 
three minutes. 

Recipes for Foreign Cooking 

Henriette Davids's " Practical Cook 
Book," published in English from the 
thirty-fifth German edition, gives 
recipes for German dishes. " Franco- 
American Cookery Book," by Felix 
J. De'liee, is a very good book to con- 
sult for French dishes. Francatelli's 
'' Modern Cook " gives recipes in 
French, Italian, and German cookery. 



Query 457. — A. H., Harlem, N.Y. : 
" What cut of lamb or mutton do you buy 
for a crown roast? Do you put water in 
the pan for basting such a roast, and 
when do you add the salt? If flour 
thrown on the floor of the oven browns 
quickly without taking fire, is the heat 
right for baking bread? Do beets and 
corn come under the head of green vege- 
tables ? How prepare duck salad? How 
is a light and feathery omelet made ? " 

Crown Roast of Lamb 
Cut the same number of ribs from 
both sides of a rack of mutton, select- 
ing ribs on one side that correspond 
to those on the other. Cut the ribs 
apart at the back bone, but separate 
the chops no farther. Trim the bones 
as for French chops, removing the 
skin and all superfluous fat. Sew the 
two pieces together at the ends, turn- 
ing the bones out and the skin side in. 
If necessary, trim the rib bones to 
make all the same length. Cover the 
ends of the bones securely with strips 
of salt pork. Rub with salt, or add 
the salt when partly cooked. Set in a 
hot oven ten or fifteen minutes, then 
reduce the heat, and, if necessary, to 
keep the dripping from burning, add 
hot water. Baste with the dripping. 



and cook from forty-five to sixty min- 
utes, basting often. 

Test of Heat for Baking Bread 

Miss Parloa gives the following test 
of heat necessary for the baking of 
bread : " Have an oven that will in 
five minutes turn a piece of paper dark 
brow^n." Oven thermometers (heat in- 
dicators), costing about one dollar, are 
of great value in regulating the fire for 
baking. 

Green Vegetables 

The term "green vegetables" may 
be used in several w^ays. Any vege- 
tables that are fresh, as young beets 
and unripe corn, might be so classed 
in contradistinction to old beets and 
dry corn. The term might also have 
reference to the color, as spinach, let- 
tuce, beet-greens, etc., all are green. 

Duck Salad 

Cut the duck into thin strips or into 
cubes. Marinate with three parts of 
oil to two of orange juice, a few grains 
of salt and paprika. Drain, and mix 
with half the quantity, each, of orange 
carpels, freed from seeds and skin, and 
bits of celery. Garnish with mayon- 
naise and half-slices of orange from 
which the skin has not been taken. 
Or omit the oranges and mayonnaise. 
Use lemon juice with the oil, and with 
the celery one-fourth the quantity of 
olives, stoned and cut in pieces. Dress 
with French dressing. Garnish with 
pimolas. 

French Dressing 

Mix half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
few grains of paprika. Stir in six 
tablespoonfuls of oil. Then add very 
gradually about three tablespoonfuls 
of lemon or orange-juice. 



Queries and Answers 



283 



French Omelet 
Use more yolks than whites of eggs. 
Kitchiner says no art can prevent an 
omelet from being hard, if too much of 
the white be left in it. The pan 
should be small and thin, to insure a 
thick omelet and quick cooking. For 
a very small omelet beat two whole 
eggs and the yolks of two more, until a 
full spoonful can be taken up. Add 
three tablespoonfuls of water, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of pepper, and, when well mixed, 
turn into a hot omelet-pan in which 
a tablespoonful of butter has been 
melted. Set on a hot part of the 
range a few seconds, then with a thin 
knife or spatula separate the cooked 
portion from the side of the frying- 
pan, and shake the pan back and 
forth, that the uncooked part may run 
down next the pan. If this cannot be 
done by shaking, prick the omelet 
with a silver fork in many places, as 
well as shake the pan. When creamy 
throughout, begin at the side of the 
pan next the handle, and roll the 
omelet, letting the pan rest on the 
hot stove, until the omelet is slightly 
browned. Add butter, if needed. 



Query 458.— Mrs. J. T., New York 
City : " Recipes for a very nice clear 
turtle soup, also for chicken mousse. 
Specify the shape of mould used for a 
mousse. Why do pumpkin pies crack 
after being taken from the oven ? Can it 
be avoided? How much gelatine in a 
box ? When measuring from a pound of 
loose gelatine, how much would an ounce 
be, or how much would one tablespoonful 
be?" 

Clear Turtle Soup 

A quart of canned turtle will make 
soup for eight people. If the turtle 
broth be clear, add two quarts of clear 
beef broth, two glasses of sherry wine, 



a sprig of parsley, and a few grains of 
cayenne pepper. Let boil once, then 
skim out the parsley. Add the turtle 
meat, cut in small squares. Pass 
with the soup slices of peeled lemon 
on a plate. If the soup be not clear, 
clarify with the shell and slightly 
beaten white of one or two eggs. 

Chicken Mousse 
Bomb moulds are generally used for 
mousse, whether it be hot or cold, 
large or individual. These differ in 
shape from the bomb moulds used for 
bomb glace. A cold chicken mousse 
was given in the October-November 
issue. Vol. III. of this magazine, under 
the name Mousse de Poulet. This was 
moulded in a brick mould, as shown by 
the half-tone given in connection wdth 
the recipe. We give this time a recipe 
for a hot dish. 

Little Mousses of Chicken 

Pound the raw breast of a chicken, 
freed from bone and skin, in a mortar 
until smooth, then press through a wire 
sieve. To one-fourth a pound of pulp 
(half a cup) add half a cup of thick Be- 
chamel sauce (liquid, half chicken stock 
and half cream), four raw yolks of ^g%^ 
and one-fourth a cup of thick cream. 
Mix thoroughly, then add the whites of 
four eggs that have been beaten dry, 
with salt and pepper to taste. Butter 
some little bomb moulds, decorate them 
with bits of truffle, hard-boiled white of 
^gg, shredded cucumber pickles, chil- 
lies, or shredded pimentos. Use one or 
more of these. Nearly fill the moulds 
with the preparation. Set them into 
timbale moulds, so that they may stand 
level, then into a baking-dish, and sur- 
round with boiling water. Poach about 
twenty minutes or until the centres are 



284 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



firm. Serve at luncheon, or as an 
entre'e with a Bechamel sauce. 

Little Mousses of Chicken No. 2 
Pound the white of one egg with 
enough raw breast of chicken to make 
half a cup ; press through a sieve, and 
add gradually half a cup of double 
cream. Then beat in three-fourths a 
cup of cooked white chicken meat 
chopped and passed through a sieve, 
a second white of egg, and half a cup 
of double cream, each beaten stiff. 
Finish as in preceding recipe. 

Cracking of Pumpkin Pies 

We are unable to state definitely why 
pumpkin pies crack after being removed 
from the oven, but think it may be be- 
cause too much liquid has been used 
in the filling. Flour, cracker crumbs, 
and eggs are needed with the pumpkin. 
Probably the thickening properties of 
the pumpkin itself varies. 

Quantity of Gelatine in Box, etc. 
There are two ounces of gelatine in 
most of the packages on the market. 
This quantity in winter will make two 
quarts of jelly that will stand in shape 
when moulded. In summer cut down 
the quantity of liquid at least half a 
cup. Tablespoons vary in size. Some 
brands of gelatine are in shreds, others 
are pulverized or granulated. The best 
way would be to use a cup. First 
measure out half the gelatine, then one- 
fourth. Then find out how many table- 
spoonfuls in the fourth of the pound, or 
four ounces. At the factories it is put 
up by weight. 

Query 459. — Mrs. A. S., Dedham, 
Mass. : " Two or three recipes for candies 
made with maple sugar." 



Maple Sugar and Walnut Creams 
Melt one pound of maple sugar, 
grated or broken into bits, in half a cup 
of boiling water. Cook without stirring 
till the *' soft-ball " stage is reached, 
then stir until thick enough to drop 
from a spoon. Drop in well-shaped 
rounds as quickly as possible. Deco-, 
rate each round with a walnut meat on 
top. 

Maple Fondant 

Melt two pounds of maple sugar, 
grated or broken into bits, in a cup of 
boiling water. Boil without stirring to 
the soft-ball stage. Wash down the 
crystals that form on the sides of the 
pan with a brush dipped in hot water, 
and add, when about half cooked, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 
Turn the mass on to an oiled marble 
slab or a platter, and let stand until 
a dent is left on the surface when the 
mass is pressed with the finger. Now 
work with a wooden spoon or paddle 
till the mass becomes a soft, smooth, 
creamy paste. Mould as you would 
bread dough a few seconds, then pack 
solidly in a glass or earthen jar. Cover 
closely with oiled paper, and let stand 
twenty-four hours or longer before 
using. 

Fondant Candies 
Work a little of the fondant on a 
slab or plate, then form into balls, or 
thick lozenge shapes, with a candied 
cherry, or bit of fruit, an almond, pis- 
tachio, or other nut in the centre. Let 
dry on paraffine paper, then dip into 
white fondant melted with a few drops 
of hot water over a saucepan of hot 
water. Stir the fondant while melting 
and before dipping each piece of candy. 
Thin with hot water as needed. 



Queries and Answers 



285 



Sucre de la Creme (Miss Locke) 
Boil three cups of maple syrup, or 
two cups of maple sugar, with one cup 
of sweet cream, or half a cup of washed 
butter, ten or fifteen minutes, or until a 
little, when tested by stirring, becomes 
creamy. At this stage remove at once 
from the fire, stir briskly, add half a 
pound of pecan-nut meats, one cup 
after they are shelled, and turn into 
a pan lined with paraffine paper. Cut 
into squares or oblongs as soon as it 
is cool ; />., before it hardens too much. 



Query 460.— Mrs. G. M. P., Pough- 
keepsie, N.Y. : " Kindly tell me how to 
make parched corn, not popped corn." 

Parched Corn 
Shake grains of dried sweet corn in 
a popper over bed of coals or hot stove 
lid until they look full and plump. 
They will not burst, as do the kernels 
of pop corn ; but often one side will 
puff out like a blister. 



Query 461. — Mrs. F. E. H., Redlands, 
Cal. : " Recipes for creamed corned beef, 
kornlet omelet, baked beans and tomato 
salad." 

Creamed Corn Beef 
Scald one pint of milk with slice of 
onion and stalk of celery. Stir into this 
one-fourth a cup each of butter and 
flour creamed together, let cook fifteen 
minutes, stirring until thickened and 
then occasionally. Add a dash of pa- 
prika, and strain over one pint of cold 
cooked corned beef cut in cubes. Turn 
into pudding-dish, and cover with half 
a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with 
three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 



Set into the oven to reheat and brown 
the crumbs. 

Kornlet Omelet 

Melt one tablespoonful of butter. 
Cook in this one tablespoonful of 
flour, one-fourth a tablespoonful each 
of salt and pepper, then add gradually 
half a cup of kornlet. When the mixt- 
ure boils, remove from the fire and 
stir in the yolks of three eggs beaten 
until thick, then fold in the whites of 
the eggs beaten dry. Turn into an 
omelet pan, in which two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter have been melted. 
Spread evenly in the pan, and let cook 
until " set " on the bottom, then put 
into the oven. When a knife cut down 
into the omelet comes out clean, score 
across the top at right angles to the 
handle of the pan. Fold, and turn on 
to a heated receptacle. 

Baked Beans and Tomato Salad 
Stir three tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
very gradually into six tablespoonfuls 
of oil and a dash of paprika. Add 
salt, if the beans have not been sea- 
soned. The oil and vinegar will not 
unite perfectly. Pour gradually over a 
pint of cold baked beans such portion 
of the dressing as they will absorb, 
toss together, and arrange on a serving- 
dish. Make a border of sliced toma- 
toes around beans, and over these pour 
the rest of the dressing. Pieces of 
whole canned tomatoes or cubes of 
tomato jelly may take the place of the 
fresh tomato. If much tomato be used, 
mix more dressing. A few drops of 
onion juice in the dressing improves 
this salad for many. 




ADDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



The spring programme for the pub- 
lic demonstrations at the Boston Cook- 
ing School is as follows : — 

February /j and ij. 
A Winter Breakfast. 

February 20, Morni7ig and Evening. 
Pastry Lesson. 

February bj and March i. 
A Few Lenten Dishes. 

March 6 and 8. 
Some Creole Recipes. 

March ij and ij. 
Soups and Soup Garnishings. 

March 20 and 22. 
Entrees. 

March 2"/ and 2g. 
Fancy Breads. 

April J, Morning and Evening. 
Suggestions for an Easter Luncheon. 

April 10 and 12. 
^ Dinner for 8 for ^8. 

April 77, Morning and Eveiiing. 
A Fish Supper. 

April 24 and 26. 
Cake and Frosting. 

May I and ^. 
Salads and Sandwiches. 



Miss Sophie B. Hurd, class of '99 
Boston Cooking School, is giving in- 



struction to classes of cookery at 
Oneida, N.Y. _____ 

At the Young Women's Christian 
Association, Worcester, Mass., the 
cooking classes lead in numbers, sixty- 
three pupils being enrolled in this 
department. There are five day 
classes and four evening classes. 
The courses for cooks on Thursday 
and Friday afternoons are proving 
very satisfactory. In most cases the 
mistresses pay the tuition, and they all 
agree that it is economy ; for the new 
dishes are always sure to come out 
right and to be served in the most ap- 
proved fashion. Miss Buckingham 
will begin a course of demonstration 
lectures about the middle of February. 



Rely upon 

^. Platfs Chlorides 

as your household 
disinfectant. 

An odorless, colorless liquid ; 
powerful, safe, and cheap. 

Destroys disease germs and 
noxious gases, thus preventing 
sickness. Sold in quart bottles 
only, by druggists and high-class 
grocers. Prepared only by Henry 
B. Piatt, Piatt Street, New York. 




^'^^^ 



News and Notes 



287 



From a daily paper published in 
Keokuk, la., we clip the following rela- 
tive to a series of cooking lessons given 
by Mrs. Helen Armstrong, of Chi- 
cago : — 

" The cooking school, under the au- 
spices of the home department of the 
Women's Club, closed yesterday after- 
noon after a very successful week. 
Talks with many of the women attend- 
ing the school disclosed a unanimity of 
opinion that, for practical benefit, the 
lessons given could hardly be sur- 
passed. The idea a week ago was that 
the school would probably be nothing 
more than some selected recipes 
worked out, but the developments were 
far from this system. Each day there 
was a lecture that was really profound, 
although lucid, upon the science and 
art of selecting and cooking foods, and 
general household economics. These 
lectures were decidedly educational, in 
the larger sense, those who attended 
say, and threw much new light upon 
household work and worry, which trans- 
formed it into a pleasure. ' Mrs. Arm- 
strong does an immense amount for us 
in this, that she causes us to put joy 
into our work,' said one woman last 
week. Those who attended here were 
largely the best housekeepers in town, 
some who do their own work and some 
who have many servants. Mrs. Arm- 
strong goes to DeKalb this week." 



The Syracuse Model Home School 
of Household Economics is sending 
out a very neatly gotten up folder in 
reference to their classes for the year. 
Connected with the school is a Model 
Home Lunch Room, where home-made 
bread, rolls, hot soups, cold meats, eggs, 
sandwiches, salads, coffee, tea, etc., are 
served, or delivered to order. 



Cured by Food 

Nature's Way to Get Well and Keep Well 

People who do not know how to 
select the right kind of food to sustain 
them become ill, and some sort of dis- 
ease will show forth. It is worth one's 
while to know of these facts. 

A young woman at Grindstone City, 
Mich., Mrs. A. P. Sage, began to run 
down while she was at school. She 
finally broke down completely, and was 
taken seriously ill with a number 
of different troubles. The stomach 
trouble was the most serious one. 
Her heart also troubled her, so she 
had to sit up as high in bed as pos- 
sible. This was caused, however, by 
her stomach. 

She says : "In the morning I would 
be so weak I could hardly move. I 
was kept on the simplest foods, prin- 
cipally liquids. After some months I 
seemed to get a little better. Then I 
got worse, so that I finally was brought 
to the point of death from non-assimi- 
lation of food." 

At this time a lady recommended 
Grape-nuts Food. She says : " Little 
did I think what a help it was to be- 
come to me. I became greatly inter- 
ested when I read the description on 
the box, that the food was pre-digested 
and in the shape of grape-sugar. 

" I had been unable to digest any- 
thing starchy at all ; but I began on 
Grape-nuts, and it was so grateful to 
the taste, and soothed my stomach so 
well, that I have been using it ever 
since, and have never grown tired of it. 

" My stomach trouble is entirely 
gone. I am much stronger now, and 
can ride a bicycle and take long walks, 
and have gained very considerably in 
weight, all of which I owe to Grape- 
nuts Food." 



288 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



The Denver Gas and Electric Com- 
pany of Denver, Col., have engaged 
Miss Anna Virginia Miller, class of 
'98, Boston Cooking School, as gas 
range and cooking expert. Miss Mil- 
ler is now giving a course of weekly 
lectures to demonstrate the econom- 
ical use of fuel gas as a cooking 
medium. No pains are spared by the 
company to assist their patrons to 
bring about the best results in every 
line of up-to-date cookery. 



help happiness more than better food 
and finer clothing. — Saturday Eve?i- 



ing Post, 



" Extravagance and plenty cannot 
long dwell in the same house." 



Josh Billings's philosophy : " We 
should be keerful how we encurridge 
luxuries. It is but a step forard from 
hoe caik to plum puddin', but it's a 
mile and a half by the nearest road 
when we have to go back again." 



Those who have been paying large 
coal bills all through the winter, and 
who have to bear the cost of every 
miners' strike, whichever side wins 
or loses, wall be interested in knowing 
that the first great revolution pre- 
dicted for the present century is that 
of the direct production of electricity 
from coal. In that event both heat 
and light will be vastly cheapened. 
Thus people will be enabled to live 
better and to wear finer clothes. 
Instead of shovelling all their income 
into the furnace and the range or hav- 
ing it race through the gas meter, 
they can spend more of it upon them- 
selves. 

The civilization that makes the 
individual happier, is the kind that 
is wanted ; and, certainly, nothing can 



It Came Back 

The Doctor's Wife found her Complexion 
Again 

Coffee is no respecter of persons 
when it comes to the poisonous effects 
thereof. A prominent physician's wife 
of Monticello, Ind., says that coffee 
treated her very badly, indeed, giving 
her a serious and painful stomach 
trouble and a wretched, muddy com- 
plexion. 

Her husband is a physician of the 
regular school, and opposed to both 
tea and coffee. So he induced her to 
leave them off, and take on Postum 
Food Co'ffee. 

The stomach trouble disappeared al- 
most like magic, and gradually her 
complexion cleared up. Now she is in 
excellent condition throughout. 

There are thousands of highly or- 
ganized people who are made sick in 
a variety of different ways by the use 
of coffee, and most of these people do 
not suspect the cause of their trouble. 
They think that others can drink coffee 
and are well, and they can. But about 
one person out of every three is more or 
less poisoned by coffee, and this can 
be proved by leaving off coffee and 
taking Postum Food Coffee. In nearly 
every case the disorder will be greatly 
relieved or entirely disappear. It is easy 
enough to make a trial, and see whether 
coffee is a poison to you or not. 

The name of the doctor's wife can 
be given upon application to the Postum 
Cereal Company, Limited, at Battle 
Creek, Mich. 



food products 



^Tt^Cocca 




At Luncheon Van Houten^s Cocoa is The Best* 

One tea spoonful is sufficient to make a delicious cup, sugar and 
cream being added to taste. When ready compare it with a cup of any 
other brand, and you will at once agree that for delicacy of flavor, and en- 
ticing aroma, Van Houten's is unequalled. The superfluous fat of the 
cocoa-bean is removed by Van Houten's special (Patented) process, so that 
the most bilious subject 'can take the beverage without the least fear of it 
irritating the liver. A i-lb tin is sufficient for 120 cups, so it is not dear, 
because a little goes a long way. 

Sold at the Grocery Stores* Don't forget to order it I 



Copyright 1901 by Lyman D. Morse Adv'g Ag'cy for the Proprietors, 

When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



Cooking for the Diabetic. Bv 
W. H. c^' Mrs. Poole. Cloth. Price 
$i.oo. New York: Longmans, 
Green & Co. 

A restricted diet, especially in case 
of children, is an affliction in itself. 
To meet the requirements here taxes 
the art of the most skilled cook. As 
a means to diminish the irksomeness 
imposed upon a pitiable class of suf- 
ferers in the matter of food, this book 
was prepared. 

It contains in brief the part of a 
normal diet which the diabetic patient 
may not eat, and what he may eat, 
also recipes for made dishes, en- 
tre'es, etc., which may safely appear 
on the patient's table. These are 
grouped under the following heads : 
Specialties, Breakfast, Soups and 
Sauces, Entrees or Made Dishes, Sa- 
vories, Puddings, Sweets, etc., and 
Dressed Vegetables. Dr. Pavy, emi- 
nent in his profession, gives prefatory 
sanction to the effort of the writers. 

Undoubtedly, the little volume will 
prove a friend in time of need, a benef- 
icent guide to those who are engaged 
in sharp contact with the most baffling 
test of disorders. 

The Golden Age Cook Book. By 
Henrietta Latham Dwight. New 
York: The Alliance Publishing 
Company. 

To all who are striving to follow the 
Golden Rule, " To do unto others as 
they would have others do unto them," 
and thus express in their every-day 
life the Christ-ideal, written within 
in their own souls, this book is in- 
scribed by the author. 

It contains a preface, or raison d'etre, 
comparative tables of vegetable and 
animal foods, and a large and choice 
collection of recipes for vegetarian 
dishes. It is a book, just as it claims 
to be, for those who are inclined to 
adopt a *' bloodless diet." The work 



is sensibly and faithfully done, and 
shows pretty plainly how " all that is 
necessary to the human body can be 
supplied by the vegetable kingdom." 
It may be noted that eggs, milk, but- 
ter, and cheese are used in the 
recipes. 

Elements of the Theory and Prac- 
tice of Cookery. By Mary E. 
Williams and Katharine R. Fisher. 
Cloth. Price $i.oo. New York : 
The Macmillan Company. 

The subject is treated in a direct, 
comprehensive, and scientific manner. 
From the kitchen fire to the prepara- 
tion of special diets for the sick, no 
important topic is neglected ; and all 
are presented in accordance with the 
latest authorities and best approved 
methods. As far as we are aware, 
no better effort in this direction has 
been made up to this present time. 

The book has significance. There 
is a growing demand for the school 
text-book on household science. It 
supplies a want. And, certainly, when 
the subject of cookery has been intro- 
duced and taught universally and 
systematically in our public schools, 
people, in general, if no better fed, will 
be more hygienically and reasonably 
fed, and the gain to health, comfort, 
and longevity, will be enormous. 

"The day is past for the study of 
any science as an accomplishment." 
Upon the better preparation of home- 
makers for their duties depends the 
hope of improvement in household con- 
cerns. Only the smallest beginning 
of imparting theoretical and practical 
instruction in the most important 
branch of a woman's education has 
yet been made. The possibilities 
opened up by the wider use of text- 
books, and kindred works, like this, 
are grand indeed. 

The plan, method, illustrations, all 
are excellent, and in harmony with the 
scope and importance of the subject. 



IMiscellancoue 




Tea 
Coffee 



Sign of Big T Kettle 

FORMOSA OOLONG; 

ENGLISH BREAKFAST; 
SOUCHONG; JAPAN; 

GUNPOWDER; HYSON; 
INDIA and CEYLON TEAS. 

35c., 40c., 50c., 60c., 75c., 90c., $1.00, $1.25. 

AFTERNOON TEA, FLOWERY PEKOE, $i .50 

Describe what you want, and send for free samples. 
Out of our immense stock there is just the Tea YOU want. 
When you find it, we can always give the same flavor. We 
will gladly furnish samples, if you will try them. Your time 
against our samples. 

Greatest Variety and Finest Stock of Teas 
and Coffees in the United States. 

Coffee, I2C. to 40c. Tea, 35c. to $1.50 

Free City and Suburban Delivery. 

Oriental Tea Company, 

87 Court Street, Boston. 



Like a magic touch 
Lustre the greatest 
Labor the least 

ELECTRq 

^ SILVER POLISH g 

Silicon 

Never scratching 
Never wearing 
Never equalled 

Trial quantity for the asking. Box, post-paid, IScts.in 

stamps. It's 5old Everywhere. 

Our Plate Cleaning Cabinet, an oak case 
7x4 in., containing i Box Electro-Silicon, 
I cake E. S. Silver Soap, Plate Brush and 
Chamois, compartment for each, is a mod- 
ern convenience for tidy housewives. 

Delivered free to any address in the U. S. 
on receipt of 75 cts. stamps or money 
order. Send for descriptive circular. 

The Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff Street, New York. 



The HUB 
LINE of 
RANGES 

Speak for Themselves 
in Thousands of Homes 

The Hub Ranges are used 
in the New York, Boston, 
Providence, Hartford, 
Worcester, and many other 
Cooking-schools. 

Is Stronger Endorsement 

Possible ? 

Smith ^ Anthony Co., Makers Hub Ranges and Heaters 
Nos. 48-54 UNION STREET, BOSTON 

Wben you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xi 




From Our Exchanges 



Little folks themselves, if brought 
up on plain, wholesome foods, will be 
their own best guides as to their bills 
of fare. A child that is well is hungry 
at the proper time ; and, if he refuses 
food, there is a reason for it. 

Eating between meals is a frequent 
cause for lack of appetite at meal time, 
and the producer of many indisposi- 
tions. Nothing is more important than 
that meals should be regular. Dainties 
in the way of fruit, candy, and nuts 
should be eaten then, and not at inter- 
vals through the day. In this, as well 
as in many other things, the victim to 
over-indulgence and indiscriminate 
feeding is literally " killed by kind- 
ness." A hungry child will eat bread 
and butter, and this alone should be 
offered when there is a plea before the 
regular meal for " something to eat." 

Once regular habits are gained, there 
will be no warfare, and little thought 
given to the subject of eating. Many 
a " wilful disposition," " stubborn 
trait," and " naughty spell" result di- 
rectly from unwise parental manage- 
ment ; and, if the truth were known, 
the consequent upbraidings and dis- 
ciplinings should by rights be bestowed 
on the mothers. 

Little meat is required by the young 
child ; and, until all the teeth have 
come, only meat soups should be al- 
lowed. Beef, mutton, and poultry are 
the best meats for the children ; and 
there should always be an abundance 
of milk and eggs. The menu should 
include fruit and vegetables in season, 
and these should appear at every meal. 
Pie should be rarely, if ever, used in a 
family of children. Dried prunes and 
apricots are both delicious if cooked 
properly, and they are healthful. 
Thorough soaking and long stewing 
are necessary for both. Dried apples, 
too, if care is taken in their prepara- 
sion, may be made appetizing; and 
any of these served with whipped 



cream will satisfy all a child's long- 
ings for goodies. 

Dates and figs are desirable, and 
will always be hailed with pleasure. 
Either may be cut up with cereals and 
served with cream. Raisins may be 
added to apple sauce, cereals, rice, 
or almost anything suitable for dessert, 
with desirable results. Tapioca with 
fruit, baked apples, fruit sherbets and 
ice-cream, gelatines, rice, chocolate 
puddings, and the like, will all be ap- 
preciated by the young members of 
the household. 

It is most important that cereals be 
thoroughly cooked ; and the fifteen or 
twenty minutes required, as the various 
boxes direct, is never sufficient. It is 
well to vary these, and not give the 
children an opportunity to get tired of 
any one. With the great variety to 
be found in the market, it is easy to do 
this. 

Breakfast should be at an hour which 
will allow the school-goers to have 
plenty of time without hurry for the 
morning meal. The hearty meal should 
be in the middle of the day, and only 
simple food allowed at night. Tea 
and coffee should never be given to a 
growing child. Made dishes, such as 
croquettes, and all fried foods, includ- 
ing doughnuts, are hard to digest, and 
ought to be, absent from a bill of fare 
that is arranged for children. Whole 
wheat bread is far and away preferable 
to fine white breads, common in this 
country, not only for the children, but 
adult members of the family. — New 
York Tribune. 



" Dear ! dear ! " said the minister's 
wife : " the cook has burned the steak 
to a crisp and served the potatoes al- 
most raw." " H'm ! " commented the 
reverend gentleman. " Done the things 
she ought not to have done, and left 
undone the things she ought to have 
done." 



food products 



^<-v 



IT KEEPS THE STOMACH SWEET 



W Dr. Alexander Haig, London, i„ -food 

and Diet," says: " Records from all sides 
how that the less animal flesh a people take 
J'^ '""' ''"'' '^^ '^^y 'om. out in trials of force 
P'<"iuction, and especially in endurance" The 
^^ '"""^ distinguished authority also says: -The 
^ proof of the poisonous nature of meat lies m 
the beneficial results of refraining from it - 

^' '^'^^ only common sense to eat less meat 
and more Quaker Oats. This delicious food 
contains all of the food-elements of meat 
and none of its unwholesome qualities 
^' 's at once the most perfect and most 
economical food Easy to Buy and Easy to 
Cook. Sold by all dealers in sealed pack- 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



Housekeeper's Memoranda 

For the present this page will appear in this position in each issue of the Magazine 



To remove Fresh Tea and Cojfee 
Stains. — Place the stained linen over 
a large bowl and pour through it boil- 
ing water from the tea-kettle, held at a 



height to insure force. 



lo re^nove Old Tea and Coffee Stains. 

— Soak in cold water first, then use 
boiling water, as above. 

To remove Cocoa and Chocolate Stains. 

— Use cold water first, then boiling 
water, as above. 

To re^nove Claret Stains from Table 
Liften. — As soon as possible cover the 
stains with salt. Let stand a few min- 
utes, then rinse in cold water. 

To remove Fruit Stains. — Pour boil- 
ing water over the stained surface. 
Arrange the cloth in such a manner 
that the water passes through a single 
thickness, and from a height above it. 

To remove Obstinate Fruit Stains. — 
Use three ounces of oxalic acid to one 
pint of water. Wet the stain with the 
solution, place over a kettle of hot 
water in the steam or in the sunshine. 
Rinse well the instant the stain disap- 
pears. Wet the stain with ammonia to 
counteract the acid remaining. Then 
rinse it thoroughly again. 

To remove Blood Stains. — Use 



clear, cold water at first, then soap 
and water. 

To remove Ink Spots from Gingham. 
— Wet the spots with milk, and cover 
them with common salt. Let stand 
some hours, then rinse in several 
waters. 

To remove Ink Spots. — Put one or 
two drops of oxalic acid on the spots, 
rinse in several waters, and finally in 
ammonia. 

To remove Grass Staifis. — Allow 
the spots to remain saturated with 
alcohol for a little time, then wash in 
clear water. 

To remove Mildew. — Use lemon 
juice and sunshine, or, if deep seated, 
soak in a solution of one tablespoonful 
of chloride of lime in four quarts of 
cold water until the mildew disappears, 
Rinse several times in clear water. 

To remove Red Iron-rust. — Cover 
the spots with salt, moisten with lemon 
juice, let stand a time, adding more 
salt and lemon. If not successful with 
these, use for fast colors muriatic acid. 
Spread the cloth over a large bowl of 
hot water, touch the dry spots with a 
drop or two of the acid. When the rust 
disappears, rinse several times in clear 
water, and then in water in which 
there is a little ammonia. 




^f^m»^ l»»l ^' ^^ " w n ^ V ^ « -» »» W '»W 



<=^THE BUTTON Srs''u7p°orte;Sne^s' 
^ No more Darning at the Knees. 

NEVER ©LirS OR TEA.11S. 

Sample pair, by mail, Catalogue free 

25 cents. 





BUTTON 



No Stitching in the Elastic 
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON, MASS. 



HnCP CUSHION 
EVERY PAIR V/ARRANTED. n^-^C ri ittom 

SUPPORTER 

I C\€\\^ FOR THE NAME 
LV7WIV Q^ EVERY LOOP 



, 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xiv 



IMieceUaneous 



KNOXS GELATINE 



V\7E are all children on^the ques- 
tion of desserts. A grown 
man enjoys my gelatine just as 
much as the small boy; a healthy 
man, just as much as the jnvalid. 
Knox's Gelatine is as pure as purity 
and as clear as sparkling water. 
You don't "know gelatine" until 
you know Knox's Gelatine. 

I WILL MAIL FREE "^y book of seventy 
. " Dainty Desserts for 

Dain'y People," if you will send the name of your 
g'-occr. If you can't do this, send a 2-cent stamp. 
For 5C ni stamps, the book and full pint sample. 
For 15c., the book and full two-quart package 
(two for 25c. >. 

Each large package contains pink color for 
fancy desserts. 

A package of Knox's Gelatine will make two 
quarts of jelly. 

CHARLES B. KNOX, 

3 Knox Avenue, JOHNSTOWN, N.Y.., 




^ack frost 

Could not cool off on the outside 
of an Eddy Refrigerator, nor 
warm up on the inside. 

The Eddy packing, which is 
the only perfect non-conductor of 
heat suitable for a refrigerator, 
and the pine wood, which is a 
better non-conductor of heat than 
any other wood (and will stand 
extremes of temperature better) 
keep the cold inside and the heat 
outside. 

Slate-stone shelving. 

Felting on all doors and inside 
covers, making them practically 
air-tight. 

.... EDDY .... 
REFRIGERATORS 

are the standard of the world. 
They have been on the market 
for more than half a century. 

They are compact, durable and 
economical to a degree attained 
by no other makers. . 

Illustrated catalogue free. 

D. EDDY & SONS, 

Boston, Mass. 




YOU 
CAN 
CHOP 



I If ^'5^1/ '^^^ ^"^*^ °^ food, — 
ll>^f/ raw or cooked meats, 

• ' 4^.1 ..^ .Mr-s I ^^^f vegetables, fruits, 

g I (^^ Jekr^^^^ °^ nuts, with this 
Y f iB^BliU^^ wonderfully con- 

venient chopper. 
Saves time and 
labor, as well as food. Four knives, one 
each, fine, medium, and coarse, also nut- 
butter cutter, sent with each machine. The 

ENTERPRISE FOOD 
CHOPPER, 

B^- TINNED,^^^ 

Is needed in every household. Strong, du- 
rable, easy to clean. At all hardware, house- 
furnishing, and department stores. Made by 

The Enterprise Manufacturing Co. 

of Pennsylvania, 

Philadelphia, U.S.A. 



When you write advertisers, please uientiou The Bostoit Cooking School Magazine. 

XV 



Household Hints 



People who object to a stiff whisk- 
brush can obtain at the factory those 
that are untrimmed, — not yet cHpped 
in shape, — which are softer for the 
garments. 

Talking one day with an old-time 
commercial traveller, I asked him what 
dishes or articles were, according to 
his experience, the most seldom served 
properly in country hotels. After think- 
ing for a few moments, he answered 
laconically, " Coffee, potatoes, and 
steak." Another question brought out 
details. "The coffee," he said, 'Ms 
too often thick. One can feel the 
grounds in it passing over one's tongue, 
and one finds a heavy residue at the 
bottom of the cup. There is no pleas- 
ure in drinking such stuff, and a drum- 
mer rarely forgets the place that serves 
it to him. Coffee should be almost 
transparent in its clearness. Potatoes, 
especially fried potatoes, seem to be 
a subject for very little care. They 
come on the table lifeless and grease- 
sodden. And the steak, instead of 
being thick and rare, is thin and 
dried-up." 

Mothers of growing children will 
testify to the preference that the latter 
have for a vegetable garden over a 
flower garden, when they have an 
opportunity to possess one of the two. 
Flowers are interesting, but edible 
crops are very much preferred by 
the young agriculturist. One of the 



enterprises receiving the support of a 
club of Chicago women is toward 
giving city children an opportunity to 
learn how common vegetables grow. 
It is proposed to plant vegetable 
patches in the city parks. The idea 
is to have the park gardeners plant 
the gardens and cultivate them. As 
is pointed out by the promoters of the 
scheme, these vegetable gardens will 
be object-lessons of the way in which 
the food products of the country are 
developed. The committee declares 
that menageries in the parks for the 
purpose of showing the youth of the 
country the habits of different species 
of animals are no more needed, than 
are these miniature grain fields, potato 
and melon patches, to demonstrate 
the agricultural processes, by which 
the world is fed. Corn, wheat, rye, 
buckwheat, turnips and onions, pump- 
kins and squash, are all scheduled for 
illustration in the scheme. 



Take the centre out of a hot biscuit 
and roll it a minute in your hand, and 
it soon becomes a solid mass of dough, 
a " lead pill." That is the thing your 
stomach wrestles with when it attempts 
to digest hot bread or biscuit. A good 
deal of the cold bread is just about as 
bad. Such food may be nutritious for 
the chap in the circus who relishes 
ground glass and eats swords and ten- 
penny nails, but it shortens the lives of 
average people. 



^:. 



MINUTE 
kCELATINE 



^S^^ligA^ 



WHITMAN GROCERY CO. 

ORANGE, MASS. 



In all " dessertdom " there's nothing more delicious, more beautiful 
when ready to serve, or more easily prepared, than the innumerable 
dainty desserts made from 

MINUTE GELATINE. 

It is absolutely pure, dissolves instantly in boiling water, requires no 
measuring, sets quicker and makes more jelly than any other kind. 

If your grocer does not keep it, send us 13 cents, and we will mail 
you full-size package, making two quarts. 

Manufactured by 

WHITMAN GROCERY COMPANY, Orange, Mass. 

Also manufacturers of the celebrated MINUTE 
TAPIOCA, which requires 710 soaking. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Maoazinb. 

xvi 



Investinents 





Men Jump at the Chance 




To buy stock in the great industrial combinations," said a 
prominent Boston investor the other day. " The glitter of big 
figures catches them. If they stopped to think, though: The 
big dividends are usually paid by the corporations with 
moderate capital stock and large surplus. If you are going 
to take stock in any new enterprise, take it in one that supplies 
something that everybody or every household needs every day^ 

The No Rub Manufacturing Company 

OF BOSTON 

Is precisely such an enterprise. It is incorporated wnth $500,000 capital to 
manufacture and sell NO RUB SILVER POLISH. The article is of 
such superior merit that almost immediately after being placed on the market 
it was a unique success. Why NO RUB was this unique success : because 
it has proven itself to be absolutely better than all others for these reasons, — 
it cleanses and polishes instantly; you do NO RU BBING whatever; it 
leaves no powder in the engraved parts, and is absolutely harmless to the 
most delicate surface. 

The original proprietors, being handicapped by limited facilities for sup- 
plying the demands, interested several Boston capitalists in the enterprise, 
among them David E. Gould, Trustee Boston Store and Realty Trust Co.; 
F. C. Baker, Treasurer and Manager of the Baker Rumney Painting Co., 
Boston; George H. Jones, Capitalist, Chelsea, Mass.; and others equally 
well known. 

The stock, which is divided into 20 0^0 shares of a par value of $25 
each, has been largely subscribed; but 2,000 shares are offered for public 
subscription at $20 a share. These shares are first issue treasury stock, 
full paid and non-assessable. 

The business is already established, the goods are selling in nearly 
every State east of the Mississippi, and the increased facilities afforded by 
the new factory about to be erected are such as to guarantee a handsome 
return upon the investment. We want to interest conservative investors in 
our proposition, and will gladly send to any address full illustrated pro- 
spectus, with sample of polish. 

For full particulars address 

UNION TRUST COMPANY, 

246 Washington Street, Boston, flass. 






B 



UTCHERS' BOSTON POLISH 

is the best finish made for 

FLOORS, BOWLING ALLEYS, 

INTERIOR WOODWORK, and FURNITURE. 



B 



MANUFACTUBED BV THE 

UTCHER POLISH CO., 



Circulars sent on Application. 
For Sals by Dealers in Painters' Supplies. 



356 Atlantic Avenue, Boston, Mass. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazin] 

xvii 



Kitchen furnishings 



Ice Cream 
Without a Grind ! 

The chief objection 
to making ice cream 
ice or sherbet, was 
that crank grinding 
It was not only ex 
tremely wearisome 

rl T^-^&Si^HK^ '-"-'^ most unhealthy 

^^'^^l||^MIP^^ Whether it had the 
■ ^^I^^HKT^P wonderful ** triple 
^'"^^^^^^ motion" or 

«' one m o= 
tion," it always 
meant a grind. 
The XXth 
Century 
Freeze r 
makes a s 
d elici ous 
and smooth 
ice cream as 

was ever made by the best old-fashioned dash 
freezers, and no crank grinding is required. The 

XXth Century 
Freezer 

is simple, durable, economical. No parts to 
break or get out of order, easily cleaned and 
therefore healthful. It saves its cost in ice and 
salt consumed in a single season. Salt cannot 
get into the cream and it will keep cream frozen 
much longer than any dash freezer — no repack- 
ing. Mix the ingredients together, let it stand, 
and it's done. 

Up-to-date dealers have the " XXth Century" Freezer. 
If you don't believe the freezer will do what we claim for it, 
read our guarantee offer. 




GUARANTEE OFFER ^sk your dealer 
for the " XXth 
Centur\' " Freezer. If he does not have it, send 
us his name with cash, and we will send it, 
express prepaid. If sent West of the Missis- 
sippi we pay half express charges. Use it for 
lo days and if it is not all you hoped for or ex- 
pected, return it express paid and we will im- 
mediately refund the full purchase price — 
no questions asked. 



2.00 
3.00 



No.2,will freeze as much creamd^ I CA 

as a 2 quart dash freezer, »P*«»J" 
No.3,will freeze as much cream 1 "JC 

as a 3 quart dash freezer, '•'«J 
No. 4, will freeze as much cream 

as a 4 quart dash freezer, 
No.6,wilIfreezeas much cream 

as a 6 quart dash freezer, 
No.8,wiII freeze as much cream A AA 

as an 8 quart dash freezer, «• vV 



" Ices Dainty and Novel," an 
illustrated book (prepared for us) 
giving 30 new recipes for creams, 
ices, sherbets, etc., by Mrs. Janet M. 
Hill, of the Boston Cooking School 
and Ladies' Home Journal, will be 
mailed on receipt of 10 cents in 
stamps. 

CORDLEY «& HAYES, 

176 Duane St., New YorJc. 




Laugh and Get Well 

" Laugh and grow fat" is a saying 
that contains a deal of truth, and is 
worthy of attention by many sufferers 
in body as well as in mind. We in- 
stinctively associate jollity with rotund- 
ity, and a sour disposition with a 
spare form. The rule is, of course, 
not without exceptions ; for we often 
see people with little propensity to take 
on fat who are full of fun and sunshine. 
Such persons are not boisterous, how- 
ever. They are possessed, it may be, 
of a quiet humor, are happy and make 
others happy, and they smile easily 
and perhaps laugh softly ; but they do 
not laugh loud, and certainly they do 
not cachinnate. 

The convulsive movements that 
we call laughter exert a very real ef- 
fect upon the physical organism. They 
cause the arteries to dilate, so that 
they carry more blood to the tissues of 
the body, and the heart to beat more 
rapidly, so that the flow of the blood 
through the vessel is hastened. In 
other words, laughter promotes the very 
best conditions for an increase of the 
vital processes, — the tissues take up 
more nutriment. 

In Bread-making 

There are certain conditions that 
control the quality of bread, — for in- 
stance, the temperature at which the 
flour is kept. Flour should not be ex- 
posed to an extremely low temperature, 
but should be kept, if possible, in a 
cool, dry, and airy room at a tempera- 
ture of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Flour should not be stored in a 
room with goods that have a strong 
flavor or odor, such as coal oil, tobacco, 
coffee, fish, or stale vegetables ; for it 
will absorb these odors, and retain them, 
when in the form of bread. Through 
this cause, flour is sometimes pro- 
nounced unsound. 

In the Pie Belt 

A young girl who carried her dinner 
was observed to always eat her pie 
first. When asked why, she replied : 
" Well, if there's anything left, it won't 
be the pie. Will it now ? " 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazini 



JMisccUancous 




Prejudiced J^f„^ 

IS the state oi any woman s 1^ ,-rH^ ^^^\ 

mind who closes her ears ^ >^I\OC 

to the praises of 

White 
Cottolene 

Its fame has spread to 
every country. Wise 
cooks everywhere know it 
is the shortening which 
makes crusts the best part 
of their pies, because they 
are so flaky and crisp and 
taste so good. 

It is better than lard and 
as satisfactory as butter 
in EVERY department 
of cookery. Why not 
order a pail at once? 



•ForWbmeit- 

and Men. 

ALL STYLES, $3.50. 

Boston Store, 159 Tremont Street 



The N. K. Fairbank Company, 

Chicago, New York, Montreal. 
Sole Manufacturers. 
■p^TDT^T^ ( Our dainty booklet, "A 
r IS. 11,11, . p^^yj^ Secret," mailed 
free to any address. For two 2c. -stamps 
we will send free our 125-page recipe book, 
"Home Helps," edited by Mrs. Rorer. 



P. S.— No hog fat in Cottolene. 





Puredental 

Tooth Powder 



PUREDENTAL 

TOOTH POWDER 

israti^D. ntflrely f 



iC£, 35 CENTS 



'QREPARED espe- 
^ cially for general 
family use. This pow- 
der is ver)' pleasing to the 
taste, and is unequalled for 
cleansing the teeth, pre- 
venting their decay, and 
strengthening the gums. 
It is entirely free from 
all gritty and injurious 
instances, and is highly 
commended by den- 
tists everywhere. 

If it is not kept by 
your druggist, a large 4- 
ounce bottle will be sent 
postpJfid on receipt of 
price, 35 cents. 

Send stamps or coin. 

Send 2-cent stamp 
ror sample. 



PUREDENTAL TOOTH POWDER CO., 

378 Boylston Street, Boston, Massachusetts 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xix 



bearing Hpparel 



Fashionable Paris has been much 
amused, lately, by an incident which 
took place between the witty Comtesse 
de Fontenay and her incomparable but 
unbearable cook, whom she had to put 
up with on account of her gourmet of 
a husband. However, during the ab- 
sence of M. de Fontenay, Mile. Louise 
became so insolent that the Comtesse 
gave her notice. Her disgust was 
great, however, when, on the morrow, 
Mile. Louise came to her triumphant, 
and told her that she was all but en- 
gaged by the Baronne de V., whose 
husband was also a great epicurean, 
and had often complimented the Comte 
de Fontenay on the daintiness of his 
table. "Ma'am," said Louise, with a 
sniff, "you will give me a character, if 
you please, not for my cooking, — that 
is well known, — but for honesty and 
the rest of it." 

Mile. Louise was an exquisite sauce 
maker, but her education had been 
very much neglected, and she was un- 
able to decipher writing, much less the 
elegant pates de mouche of a comtesse ; 
and when, with her best bonnet and 



her best black silk on, she asked her 
mistress for the desired testimonial, 
she simply took it and walked away, 
l^ut her astonishment was great when 
she saw the Baronne de V. read the 
document twice, then burst out laugh- 
ing, and signal for her to go. " Ma 
fille," she said, chuckling, " I'm afraid 
you won't do for me." 

This is what the Baronne de V. 
read : — ■ 

I, Comtesse de Fontenay, hereby certify 
that for three years I have been at the ser- 
vice of Mile. Louise Girot, and done my very 
best to please her in all things, and show her 
my devoted submission. I was often dis- 
tressed at seeing that her temper was some- 
what difficult to put up with, though I tried 
hard to live on good terms with her on ac- 
count of the excellence of her sauces, of 
which M. le Comte was so fond that I should 
have Uked to remain at Mile. Louise's service 
much longer. My purse, as well as my pa- 
tience, having been constantly dealt with by 
Mile. Louise with unlimited liberty, I cannot 
say much about her honesty. 

For this document the Comtesse de 
Fontenay was condemned to pay a 
slight fine by one of the judges. But 
she had her little joke. 




" See where she comes, apparelled like the Spring." — Ferides. 

Ladies' Suits and Coats .......... Oak Room 

Ladies' Waists and Gowns ...... Ladies' Garment Annex 

Ladies' Underwear, Hosiery, and Gloves Ivory Room 

Ladies' Corsets ............ Ivory Room 

Ladies' Shoes Ivory Room 

EXPERT supervision in production enables \\^ to place before the ladies 
of Boston and New England this season complete wardrobes of ele- 
gant and fashionable garments that will claim attention for originality, 
beauty, serviceability, and economy. 

An especial advantage we are able to offer is " men's handiwork," so essen- 
tial in the perfection of the fit, finish, and contour of ladies' suits and coats. 

THE Ladies' Waist, Gown, Underwear, and Shoe Departments are 
headed by gentlemen who fully understand their business, and are 
therefore competent to offer rare suggestions and advice. 

We assure our patrons of polite and respectful attention in all departments. 

A. Shuman dz Co., Shuman Corner, BostOn 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



Kitchen f^irnisbings 



I 






HOWto 
BAKE 



Purchase and prepare the food 
carefully. Do the rest with a 




HOME CRAWFORD 

Range. The results will surely be satisfactory. The single damper, by a 
single motion, controls fire and oven heat better than can be done with two 
dampers. The Oven is extra large; five heights for rack, asbestos lined 
back. The fire=box burns fuel economically and perfectly; choice of 
triple, dock ash, or plain grate. Ask Your Dealer. Circular Free. 

WALKER 8t PRATT MFG. CO., 31-35 Union St., Boston, Mass. 



Champion Stove Clay 

Is for MENDING CRACKS and HOLES in the STOVE LINING. 

When this lining becomes cracked or gets holes broken 
through it, — as constantly occurs, — then the fierce heat 
has direct access to the front of the oven, and will warp 
and crack the oven plate and ruin your stove. -... 
Besides, the oven is heated unevenly, and will not ''.•"■■- 
bake satisfactorily. 



Watch the Stove Lining. 

Examine it in the morning before making a 
fire, and, if you find holes or cracks, plug 
them up with a Httle CHAMPION Stove 
Clay. This is a combination of powdered fire- 
clays and plumbago. Mix with water and 
use like mortar or cement. Any one can 
use it. Keep a box on hand. It's cheap. 
Buy it of stove dealers and at hardware and 
general stores. Write us if you can't get it. 

Don't neglect the stove lining : the 
life of the stove depends upon it. 

Bridgeport Crucible Co., Bridgeport, Conn. 




UmuiuUUlmiltuuiilimuuiiimiimiiiiiiimiiiiiiuuuauui 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thk Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



food products 



Nicelle Olive Oil, 

GRAND PRIX, 
Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1900. 

Recommended ^j' (7// 
Cooking Teachers and Food Magazines. 



Man-Olas, 

OUR NEW OLIVE SPECIALTY, LIKE 

Pim-Olas. 

They are a welcome addition to the Menu. 



"White Label" * » 

# # # # # Products 

Secured the 
Highest Award at Paris Exposition. 

Seville Packing Company, 

NEW YORK. 



HASKELL, ADAMS & COMPANY, 
Boston Distributing Agents. 



BAKINCi 

ffOWDERv 

!!>ui!!lii,|„|,if^"'i 

linpiil 

yjJI;?0ST0N.MA4S,J;Sj'?jj"' 



Mrs. LINCOLN'S 

BAKING POWDER 
COOK BOOK ^ e^ 



Of Seasonable Dishes for 
every month, FREE, with 
each can purchased. 



BOSTON, MASS. 



Grocers 



It 



AFTER MANY YEARS' EXPERIENCE, 
AM CONVINOEO THAT A PURE CREAM OF , 
TAflTAR BAKIN6 POWDER IS THE BEST^ 
QUICK LEAVENINQ, AGENT, AND IS 
WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT. 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMULA, CON- 
TAINS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
GRADE OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND Bl 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMALL- 
EST PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH , 
NECESSARY FOR ITS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MYSIGNATURE.APPEARS 
ON THESE LABELS, HOUSEKEEPERS may/ 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
FOLLOWED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
THIS BAKING POWDER. 



AUTHOR a^THg/ '.BOSTON COOK BOOK" 
AMD tEO. OF MRS LINCOLN'S BAKINd 

POWDER COMPANY. 



Office 
21 

Commerce 
Street 
Boston 
None genuine without Mrs. Mary J. Lincoln's signature 



Care of the Refrigerator 

Now that the heated weather is again 
with us, too much cannot be said on the 
subject of proper care of the refrigera- 
tor. This important article of house- 
keeping furniture may be either a clean, 
pure receptacle, where food may be kept 
in a wholesome condition, or it may be 
a breeding and abiding place for disease 
germs. Many housekeepers, who would 
not think of trusting the laundering 
of fine napery or delicate embroideries, 
or cleaning of fine bric-a-brac, to the 
one often overworked and more often 
careless maid-of-all-work, leave the 
management of this important matter 
entirely to the servant, and then are 
surprised at the amount of ice bills, 
the queer taste of milk and the ran- 
cidity of the butter. In the first place, 
put plenty of ice in the refrigerator or 
ice-box. A piece of ice weighing ten 
pounds, put in daily, is of little or 
no use. Put in one hundred pounds, or 
as much as the refrigerator will hold, 
twice a week, and it will always be cool. 
When the refrigerator is thoroughly 
chilled, the ice will not melt so rapidly. 

Insist that the doors be kept closed, 
even if it is expected to replace the 
article taken out in a few moments. 
Then keep the box strictly clean, but 
do not scald it, if you have a care for 
the amount of your ice-bill. Some over 
zealous housewives scrub and scald the 
refrigerator once a week. Under such 
circumstances the box becomes heated, 
and, as soon as ice is put in, it melts 
rapidly, without throwing down the 
proper amount of cold air ; and it really 
takes twenty-four hours to bring it back 
to the point of refrigeration. Scalding 
is only necessary where ice is taken 
the year round. Then the box should 



State of Ohio, City of Toledo, ) ^g 
Lucas County, ) 

Frank J. Cheney makes cath that he is senior partner 
of the firm of F. J. Cheney & Co., doing business in the 
City of Toledo, County and State aforesaid, and that 
said firm will pay the sum of One Hundred Dollars for 
each and every case of Catakrh that cannot be cured 
by the use of Hall's Catarrh Cure. 

Frank J. Cheney. 

Sworn to before me, and subscribed in my presence, 
this sixth day of December, a.u. 1886. 

A. W. Gi.EA.SON, 

[Skal] Notary Public. 

Hall's Catarrh Cure is taken internally, and acts 
directly on tlie blood and mucous surfaces of the system. 
Send for testimonials, free. 

F. J. Cheney & Co., Toledo, Ohio. 

Sold by Druggists, 75c. 

Hall's Family Pills are the best. 



When you write advertisers, piease mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



IMisccllaneous 



U3E5TBYALLTESTC 




B 



MAGEE FURNACE CO., 
32 to 38 Union Street, Boston, 

MAKIiUS OK TIIK CKLEBRATEU 

MAGEE HEATERS AMD RANGES, 

Send for descriptive painpiilet. 



HALF THE 



OF- 

liV/NO /SL 
T/fE COOK/NO: 
All the fun of 

COOMiNO /3/A/TH£ 
MAGEE. 

TffE ONLY /?ANG£ WAT 

coo/rs i///r// ab- 

SOLUre C//V/FO/?M/77 

A/VO /fro/£/v/c 
f^EffFEcr/o/v, — 

^F£N COO/r//VCh 

r//Ar WAV 

FO/i^Qy£APS. 




SOLD BY 
LEADING DEALERS 



[ 



AWARDED GOLD MEDAL, PARIS EXPOSITION, 1900. 



] 



01 LRIGHT 

FOR 




" 3 in 1 "is beyond question the 
very best. It is sweet smelling 
and water white, with just enough 
body to oil right and yet not gum, 
collect dust or clog the bearings of 
the finest mechanism. 

works equally well on typewriters, 
sewing machines, guns, bicycles, 
clocks, locks, and hmges. 
All dealers sell it. For two-cent 
stamp we will send you sample 
bottle free. 

G. W. COLE CO. 

145 Broadway, Cor. Liberty 
NEW YORK CITY 



THE OLD RELIABLE 



Carburet of 
Iron" 



DIXON'S 
Stove Polish. 

Never turns Red or Rusts your Stoves. 
Jos. Dixon Crucible Co., - - Jersey City, N.J. 



?►♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 
CHEMISTS AND PHYSICIANS t 

TESTIFY TO THE ABSOLUTE PURITY OF 

SLADE'S 
SPICES. 

A. R. Gray,M.D. of New . 
York, says in the American 
Journal 0/ Health : 

"The most searchingr ♦ 
analysis of SLADE'S ♦ 
SPICES but demon- ' 
strates their excellence 
and absolute purity,, 
and condiments sold 
under their brand are 
eminently worthy of 
praise from every phy- " 
sician and health jour- 
nalintheland." Insist 
on having- Slade's Spices. ^ 
D. & L. SLADE CO., BOSTON, MASS. 2 
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxiii 



food products 



{ Unexpected Company \ 

A Has no Terror for tiik House. A 

T KEEPKR ■\VUO HAS IN THIC HOL'SK W 



QUICK 
COOKING 



5 SLADE'S 

TAPIOCA. 

Delicioxis Desserts are 
Quickly made tvith it. 

Ask Your Grocer for it. 

A Booklet of Receipts FREE. 

D. & L. SL ADE CO. , Boston. 




Peter Cooper's 

Clarified 

GELATINE 

For Wine Jellies, 
Blanc-Mange, 
Charlotte Russe 

pure and wholesome 

Our Pulverized Gelatine is the 
most convenient for family use. 
Dissolves in a few minutes. 

An 8-cent package 
makes two quarts. 
Cheapest and best. 

For sale by all grocers. 

S. S. PIERCE COMPANY, 

BOSTON, MASS., 
Manufacturers' Agents. 



be thoroughly scalded, dried, and aired 
twice or three times a year ; and the 
same should be done when it is closed 
up for the winter. Clean the refrigera- 
tor carefully once a week, washing the 
walls, sides, and all shelves with cold 
water, with a little powdered borax dis- 
solved in it, a clean cloth, and some pure 
soap, — not the ordinary strong-smell- 
ing yellow bar used for scrubbing the 
kitchen and laundry. Work into all 
grooves and corners with a skewer, 
and then rinse and wipe dry. Clean 
drain pipe thoroughly with a cloth 
wrapped round a stick, and rinse out 
well. 

But as important as all this is a rigid 
insistence that, if anything is spilled in 
the refrigerator, it be wiped up at once 
with cold water. The outside of all 
vessels should be scrupulously clean, 
and none should be set in the box so 
full that the contents will spill with the 
slightest jar. On no account allow any- 
thing warm to be placed in it. Ex- 
amine the refrigerator daily to see that 
no berries have been dropped in the 
bottom and that no lump of butter or 
other foreign matter is clinging to the 
shelf or side. Do not allow scraps of 
food to accumulate beyond their period 
of usefulness. Some articles of par- 
ticularly penetrating odor, like canta- 
loupes, should not be kept in the re- 
frigerator at all. These are only good 
when fresh, and can be cooled in a 
short time by cutting in half, scooping 
out seeds, filling halves with broken 
ice, and placing together until needed. 
Centra] Advocate. 



Judging by rules, anatomic or eco- 
nomic, Boston Garters always win the 
approval of men who once wear them. 




A DeJica-te 
Ccnfeciion and Fo 

f or*JL u n c h e 3 *s=*^^ 



Ma de by 

5'i'i Ai iantic Ave. Dos'ton 




Maker of the BOSTON CHOCOLATES 

When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School, Magazine. 

xxiv 



f'bod products 



MAKE YOUR OWN ICE-CREAM AND A 
VARIETY OF DAINTY DESSERTS WITH 



jS^ 



CHR. HANSEN'S 



jS^ 



JUNKET TABLETS 

10 TABLETS FOR lo QUARTS, lo CENTS 
Book of receipts, yunket Dainties^ free with every box 



WHAT THOSE WHO HAVE USED JUNKET TABLETS SAY 



Wellington, Kan., August 29, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — I have been sending to you from time 
to time for your lo-cent boxes of Junket Tablets, but 
we have got to be so fond of the Junket desserts that 
we are using the tablets daily, and it keeps me writing 
continually for more Junket Tablets. I see in the book 
sent with last box that you give 100 tablets for 75 cents, 
so enclose that amount. Kindly forward by return 
mail, as we are nearly out and feel lost without a supply 
on hand. 

Respectfully, 

A. H. Keyes. 

Santa Cruz, Calif., September 17, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — Last three boxes Junket Tablets came 
safely; but we like them and have friends, and they are 
gone, so I will thank you to mail me three more 
packages. 

Very truly, 

William W. Parker. 

Waynesboro, Va., September 5, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — Please send me by return mail five of 
your lo-cent packages of Junket Tablets. 

We have used it for some time, and like it better 
than anything of the kind we have ever tried. 
Enclosed you will find 55 cents in stamps. 
Very truly yours, 

Mrs. W. N. FiSHBURNE. 

Carrollton, Ohio, August 14, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — While in New York recently I ob- 
tained a package of your Junket, and am so pleased 
with it that I wish you to send me. ^i worth of 
packages, as every one who has tasted it wants me to 
get them a box. 

Respectfully, 

Mrs. J. C. Ferrall. 



106 West 13th Street, 
New York, August 31, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — Please accept my sincere thanks for 
your prompt reply to my letter and request for your 
cook book, which I have since received with the pack- 
age of tablets. I find the tablets are invaluable, espe- 
cially where a patient is confined to fluid diet, as in 
typhoid fever, etc. The form in which they are done 
up is so convenient. 

Cordially yours, 

Sarah J. Mac King. 



Mayaguez, Porto Rico, September 14, 1899. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs, — I enclose money order for ^i; for 
which please send by mail to address as below its -value 
in your Junket Tablets, making allowance for postage. 
Address, "Major Charles L. Cooper, Fifth U.S. 
Cavalry, Mayaguez, Porto Rico." 

Please quote price by the dozen, and send me word 
how much each dozen weighs, so that in the future I 
can send for those quantities. We use your tablets 
twice each week for desserts, and find them not only 
excellent, but just the thing for a tropical climate like 
this. In fact, we can attribute to a great extent our 
good health, while being compelled to sojourn under 
the burning sun in this section, to the use of the Junket 
Tablets, and therefore feel that we cannot do without 
them. 

Yours very truly, 

(Signed), Charles L. Cooper, 

Major Fifth U. §. Cavalry. 



Neponset, Mass., April 20, 1900. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N.Y. 

Dear Sirs,— Please send me a descriptive price list. 
We think there is nothing better than Chr. Hansen's 
Junket. 

Mrs. Lillian Dunn. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



food products 



i 



. . . . i^ 

"Bhe Hog 
QLnd the Lily 

illustrate the difference 
between laLrd and 

WESSON 

ODORLESS 

COOKING 
OIL 

A Purely Vegetable Product 

Animal fat may carry disease with it and be 
unclean. It is very indigestible. Wesson Odor- 
less Cooking Oil is pure, sweet and clean. It 
goes t^vice as far as laLrd or butter ! 

Wesson Salad Oil is far better value than 
the finest olive oil and has the same flavor. Ask 
your friendly grocer for it. 



BAnv/fyG/^PwCo. 



These trade-mark crisscross 

GLUTE 

SPECIAL 
K. C.WHOL 

Unlike all ot 

For b 
Farwell & Rhines, 




lines on every package. 
For 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT FLOUR. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 
own.N.Y..U.S.A. 



Bosto7i Cooking- School Magazine: 

I have taken your magazine for 
three years, have tried a great many 
of the recipes, and found them all 
good. In fact, I have never had but 
one failure. I enjoy the reading mat- 
ter very much. Thanking you for 
brightening the humdrum of every-day 
housework with the many cheering 
thoughts you have expressed, and wish- 
ing many years of prosperity to the 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine^ I am. 
Yours sincerely, 
E. A. S., Syracuse, N.Y. 



Instead of the usual stereotyped let- 
ter of spring announcements, A. Shu- 
man & Co. are sending out a very 
neat and tastily gotten-up booklet. 
With the advent of spring a special 
invitation is extended to pay a visit 
of inspection to their ladies' depart- 
ments, where most attractive lines of 
ladies' habiliments, including suits and 
coats, waists and gowns, underwear, 
corsets, and shoes can be seen. Ex- 
pert supervision, men's handiwork, en- 
able this house to produce elegant and 
fashionable garments that claim at- 
tention for originality, beauty, service- 
ability, and economy. 

Cottage Pudding 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter, 
add half a cup of sugar, one well- 
beaten ^gg^ and, alternately, half a 
cup of milk and one cup and a half 
of flour, sifted, with two teaspoonfuls 
and a half' of Slade's Congress yeast- 
powder. Bake in an agate gem-pan, 
and serve with liquid pudding sauce. 



OristMill 

Wheat Coffee 

Delicious and 
Healthful 
Substitute 

S^SK YOUR OROCER-HE SELLS It, 




When you write advertisers, please mention Thb Boston Cooking School Maoazinb. 

xxvi 



Investments 



XJBERO 

TLANTATION CO 







^^w 
* 



t>-T 



A Rare Chance 

TO PROVIDE FOR YOURSELF 
and FAMILY A LIFE INCOME 

EARNING 50 TO 100% 

PER ANNUM 
BY INVESTING IN THE MODEL 

J UBERO PLANTATION. 

NOT A SPECULATION, but a legitimate 
business undertaking, founded on actual 
facts and known conditions, and surrounded 
by all the guarantees of protection, sound- 
ness, and profit known to the conservative 
business world. 

SHARES REPRESENTING the LAND 
are offered to the public at the par value of 
$ 1 50 each (or one-half acre of fully developed 
and full-bearing land), payable ^2.50 per 
month for forty months, and ^5 per month 
,,^^^^^^^^^^^0 for ten months. 

There is nothing so profitable, so sure, sound, and permanent, as tropical agriculture when carefully 
and scientifically managed. 

The Ubero Plantation Co. owns 3,000 acres of the richest, most productive land in the world, situated 
on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, a participating interest in which is now offered to the public. There are 
being planted 400,000 Rubber trees, 1,000,000 Coffee trees, and 1,000,000 Pineapple plants, which, when 
brought to full maturity, will produce a profit of over 100%. These are not our estimates : they are the 
actual results obtained by our own and other plantations, and of investigations by ministers, consuls, 
and representatives of this and other nations. Absolute, incontrovertible proofs are at hand, and may 
be obtained from us by any person interested in a highly remunerative i?vestment. 

Dividends commence the first year and increase each year. We have already de- 
clared end paid dividends of 10% the first year and 15% the second year in the Ubero 
I'lantntion Co. of hidianapolis, which owns a similar and contiguous tract of land to 
the otie we are now offering in Boston, and which was also developed by us. 

Space forbids a fuller description. Complete details on application. The most rigid investigation is 
courted. Address 

THE UBERO PLANTATION CO., 

89 STATE STREET (Dept. ii A), BOSTON, MASS. 



'./ 











When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



JMisceUaneous 



La Vida ^ 
^ Corsets 

WE ARE SHOWING ALL 
: : THE NEW MODELS : : 

The best productions of the American manu- 
facturers and particularly adapted to the Ameri- 
can figure. The straight front was first brought 
out in La Vidas, and received instantaneous 
recognition as the foremost step in corset 
making. 

Description : These models are made of the 
best coutil and Italian cloths, also figured 
batistes in plain and fancy colors. The new 
Empire ribbon girdle will be very much in 
vogue for slight figures the coming season. We 
are showing them in a variety of colors, and will 
make to order in any shade desired. 

Particular attention paid to fitting. 



Shepard, Norwell & Co. 



Just a Mistake 



Carpets 



Standard Qualities 
Pleasing Patterns 
Popular Prices 



Oriental 
Rugs : : : 



Beautiful 

Durable 

Reasonable 

Joel Goldthwait & Co* 

169 Washington Street 

BOSTON 



he 



"What do you call these? 
asked at the breakfast table. 

" Flannel cakes," replied the wife 
of his bosom. 

" Flannel ? They made a mistake, 
and sold you corduroy this time." — 
Baltimore American, 



Boston Cooking- School Magazine : 

I am delighted to renew my sub- 
scription to the magazine ; and my only 
regrets are that it is not published 
weekly, instead of bi-monthly, as I 
grow so anxious to have it before the 
time for another number. 

Sincerely, 

C. I. S., New York. 



An Easter Hint 

From a correspondent we have just 
received the following, which should 
be of special interest at this time : 
" If to the water in which cut flowers 
are kept about a tablespoonful of 
Piatt's Chlorides (the odorless disin- 
fectant) be added, the perfume and 
freshness of the flowers will be re- 
tained for a much longer period than 
would otherwise be the case." The 
suggestion originally came from a 
trained nurse, who made the discovery 
during a long and tedious illness, 
where everything was done to make 
the sick-room cheerful and healthful. 



SELF-HYPNOTIC HEALING. 

I have made a late discovery that enables all to induce the 
hypnotic sleep in themselves instantly, awaken at any desired 
time, and thereby cure all known diseases and bad habits. Any 
one can induce this sleep in themselves at first trial, control their 
dreams, read the minds of friends and enemies, visit any part of 
the earth, solve hard questions and problems in this sleep, and 
remember all when awake. This so-called Mental-Vision 
Lesson will be sent to any one for loc. silver, actually enabling 
him to do the above without further charge. 

Prof. R. E. DUTTON, McCook, Nebraska. 



Rheumatism Ju^rrRVeir^tLm?^]ni 

cases out 01 ten, to stay 
cured. The last product of science, prepared after prescription 
of a celebrated and successful physician. It would cost you ^25 
to consult him. Free.— For a short time only we will send en- 
tirely free a trial treatment to any one enclosing four cents for 
postage. This offer will not be good long. Write now. Give 
a descnption of your case. 

FLOWER MED. CO., 151 W. 34th St., New York. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School, Magazine. 



BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY 



3 9999 06385 341 8 



»■ P. t Binder. 
OEU 12 ISfl