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AOAZINE 


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Vol.  V. 


JUNE,  JULY.         ,^  No.  1 


Individual  Economics. 

June  Luncheons. 

Some  Duties  of  a  Waitress. 

Cleanliness. 

Each  Side  .of  frliS;  V/Ai^.j     - 

A  Home  Wedding  iN  June; 

Pleasure  IN  EvERxti^iiNG. :     -. 

Home-made  Totlft  Soap 


Kate  Sanborn, 

Eleanor  M.  Lucas, 

Catherine  J.  Coolidge, 

Kate  Gannett   Wells, 

'\j  Kate  M.  Post, 

Belle  Spaulding, 

ftilia  Davis  Chandler, 

Caroline  D.  Jordan. 


Selected  Verse, 

Editorial  Department:  :|^^^H     Janet  McKenzie  Hill. 

Taking  Summer  Boarder^^ill  of  Fare  at-  Farmhouse  — 
Menus:  Wedding  Breakfast,  Class -Day  Spread,  Country 
Luncheons  —  Recipes  (Illustrated)  —  In  Reference  to  Menus  and 
Recipes  —  Queries  and  Answers — -News  and  Notes  —  Book 
Reviews. 

{For  comj>lete  index  see  second  and  fourth  pa£;es.) 

Published  Bimonthly  by 

THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE, 

Publication  Office:  372  Boylston  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 


Copyrijrht,  1899,  by  the  Boston  Cookiuer-School  Magazine, 


B9BBB9HBIBS99e9B9Bi 
Entered  at  Boaton  Poet  Office  ai  Beeond-elaAi  matt«r. 


''^^ 


i; 


THOMAS    WOOD    &    CO., 

Importers   and    roasters. 
216  State  Street.  Boston. 


IT    DRINKS    THE    BEST1 


The    ALADDIN    OVEN 

will  cook  food  in  a  .tcientific  maniter  at  the  rost 
of  four  to  five  cents  a  tiny. 


Does  not  heat  the  room,  lhrow  off  any  odor  of  cooking,  and 
does  not  require  watching. 


SEND     FOR     A     CIRCULAR. 


THE  A8BE8T08  PAPER  CO.,  bJstS'n"^«Tss 


DISCERNING  People  throughout  the  land  who  are    \A/iSEI 

IIM      THEIR      GEIMERA-riON 

are  today  usTiig  the 


F^ANO^ 


OBSERVING  ones  have  learned    by  experience  that   no  other   range  can   pos= 
sibly  give  such  supreme  satisfaction  for  365  days  in  the  year. 
Our  ranges  possess  every  good  quality  known  to 

IVIAKE:IR3    »r.d    BAKERS 

A  Catalogue  with  pleasure. 
Tho      FRIOMIVIOIMD     STOVE     OO.,    IMOIRXAMOIH,     Oor-»n. 


H^gn  V0U  mrriU!  Adverti$0rs,pl«as€  mention  Thb  Boston   CooKiifO-8cH6oL  Maoazink 


SPINACH-AND-EGG    SALAD. 

Chop  cooked  spinach  fine,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and 
lemon  juice ;  press  into  well-buttered  cups  or  moulds.  Have 
ready,  also,  some  cold  boiled  eggs  and  mayonnaise.  Turn  the 
spinach  from  the  moulds  on  to  nests  of  shredded  lettuce.  Dis- 
pose, chain  fashion,  around  the  base  of  the  spinach,  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  cut  in  rings,  and  press  a  star  of  mayonnaise  in  the  centre 
of  each  ring.  Pass  the  yolks  through  a  sieve  and  sprinkle  over 
the  tops  of  the  mounds,  and  place  above  this  the  round  ends  of 
the  whites. 


WEDDING    SANDWICH    ROLLS. 

Wrap  bread  as  it  is  taken  from  the  oven  closely  in  a  towel 
wrung  out  of  cold  water,  cover  with  several  thicknesses  of  dry 
cloth,  and  set  aside  about  four  hours  ;  then  cut  away  the  crust,  and 
with  a  thin,  sharp  knife  cut  the  loaf  or  loaves  in  slices  as  thin  as 
possible  and  spread  with  butter,  and,  if  desired,  thin  shavings  of 
meat,  potted  meat,  or  chopped^nuts ;  roll  the  slices  very  closely 
and  pile  on  a  serving-dish. 


s 


•^ 


S 


S 


COMPLETE    INDEX    VOL.  V. 


June-July,  1900  —  April- 


PAGB 

After-breakfast  Chat 2x7,  263 

Afternoon  Tea  in  England 209 

Batters  and  Doughs 64 

Bewilderment  of  Mr.  S.  Bowen  .  .  .  loi 
Bill  of  Fare  at  Farm-house    .....       23 

Bread 154 

Bread  and  Bread-making 201 

Cake  and  Cake-making 115 

Caution  in  Little  Things 212 

Children,  For  the 256 

Christmas  Giving 171 

Cleanliness 9 

Cooking-school  Methods 113 

Cooking  for  a  Field  Hospital     ....     159 

Cooks,  Some  Famous 197 

Concerning  Menus  and  Recipes      .     .    87,  229 

Cottage,  A  Summer 243 

Dat  Valentine 209 

Dietaries  and  Water 73 

Dining-room  Chairs 151 

Domestic  Science 142 

Duties  of  a  Waitress 7,  no,  165 

Each  Side  of  the  Way ii 

Fat,  Purification  of 143 

Flowers  in  Winter 205 

Gardening,  Kitchen 247 

Hash,  Mutton 143 

Home  Nursing    ....      107,  162,  207,  253 

Home-made  Soaps 16 

Home  W^edding  in  June •      12 

Individual  Economies i 

June  Luncheons  3 

Menus,  In  Reference  to     .       35,  136,  184,  275 
Menus,  Family  of  Seventeen      ....     228 

Menus  for  Light  Housekeeping      .     .     .     181 
Menus  in  Lent     .......       227,  273 

Menus,  Seasonable  .     .     .     .85,  135,  183,  274 

Menus,  Special 24,  86 

Menus,  Yule  Tide 182 

Menus,  Thanksgiving 134 

Menus,  Vegetarian 84 

News  and  Notes       .  49,  95,  147,  194,  240,  286 

New  Year's  W'ish 158 

Pleasure  in  Everything 15 

Sights  and  Tastes  in  Tripoli       .     .     .     .     251 

Simple  Entertainments 63 

Taking  Summer  Boarders 21 

The  Mission  of  the  Rose  Geranium  .  .  59 
The  Pinehurst  Tea  Gardens  ....  53 
The  Prophet  and  his  Methods   ....       56 

The  Refrigerator  that  failed 51 

Verse,  Selected  .  .  17,  69,  119,  167,  213,  259 
Way  down  on  Plantation 114 

Queries  and  Answers:  — 

Alum  in  Baking-Power,  How  to  detect,  89 

Angel  Cake 39 

Apfel  Kuchen 234 


May,  1901.* 


Apfel  Kuchen,  Mannheim       ....  234 

Apples,  Blushing 277 

Asparagus,  Cream  of 237 

Banana  Fritters 187 

Bananas,  Baked 188 

Bananas,  Baked  and  Fried      ....  39 

Basil  and  Bergamot 139 

Batter,  Fritter 188 

Batter  Pudding 43 

Batter  and  Timbale  Covers     ....  278 

Batter  for  Swedish  Timbale  Cases  .     .  278 

Beans,  Baked,  Tomato  Salad      .     .     .  285 

Beans,  French 239 

Beef,  Roasted  or  Braised  in  Gravy       .  142 

Beefsteak,  Broiled  with  Onions  .     .     .  145 

Beefsteak  en  Casserole 45 

Beefsteak,  Stuffed  with  Onions  .     .     .  145 

Beef  Soup,  English 48 

Biscuit,  Oatmeal 239,  277 

Biscuit,  Raised  Graham 280 

Biscuit,  Tough 140 

Blackberries,  Pickled 44 

Boston  Brown  Bread 4i)  93 

Boston  Brown  Bread,  Steaming  of  .     .  41 

Bouillon 40,  45,  and  93 

Box  Luncheon,  Dishes  for      ....  46 

Bread,  Gluten 237 

Bread,  Rye 91 

Bread  for  Sandwiches 90 

Bread,  W^ater  and  Whole-wheat      .     .  280 

Breakfast  Menu,  Criticism  of      .     .     .  46 

Broiled  Live  Lobster 40 

Broilers,  Small 139 

Broilers,  Charcoal 233 

Cake,  Chocolate 187,  235 

Cake,  Eggs  in  Angel 187 


192 

279 

40 

140 

235 
192 


Cake  from  Bread  Dough 
Cake,  Old-fashioned  Election 
Cake,  To  make  Fine-grained 
Cake,  Velvet  Sponge  .  .  . 
Cakes,  German  Pan  .  .  . 
Cakes,  Lemon  Cheese  .     .     . 

Cakes,  Margaret  Deland 190 

Cakes,  Molasses  Drop 89 

Cakes,  Plunketts 193 

Cakes,  Sand 91 

Cakes,  Snow 235 

Cakes,  Taylor 139,  232 

Cakes,  Why  Certain  fall  in  Centre      .  41 

Canapees  and  Sandwiches      ....  238 

Canapees,  Lobster 238 

Caramel  Frosting 189 

Caramels,  Chocolate  and  Vanilla     .     .  189 

Caramels,  Vanilla,  \\-ith  Cherries     .     .  189 

Caramels,  Vanilla,  with  Glucose      .     .  189 

Caramels,  Vanilla,  with  Nuts      .     .     .  189 

Carpet,  to  brighten  an  Old     ....  234 

Catsup,  Tomato 93 


A  title  page  will  be  furnished  subscribers  on  application  by  letter  or  postal  card. 


Complete  Index 


Cereal,  Moulded,  for  Frying  ....  144 

Chafing-dish  Heated  with  Gas    ...  190 

Champignons  a  la  Algonquin      .     .     .•  236 

Cheese  Timbales 190 

Cherries,  Dried 44 

Cherry  INIousse  with  Preserved  Cherries  47 

Cherry  Water  Ice 47 

Chestnuts,  Compote  of  French  .     .     .  233 

Chestnuts,  Marrons  Glaces     .     .     ,     .  233 

Chicken,  Creamed 143 

Chicken  Croquettes 143 

Chicken  Mousses 283,  284 

Chicken  Tie 42 

Chickens,  Weight  and  Age  of    .     .     .  239 

Chili  Sauce 48 

Chocolate  Filling 235 

Chocolate  Frappe,  Sauce  for .     .     .     .  146 

Chocolate  Frosting,  Boiled     ....  235 

Chocolate  Sauce  for  Vanilla  Ice-cream,  143 

Chops  with  Chestnuts 278 

Clam  l^roth  with  Whipped  Cream  .     .  38 

Clam  Fritters 4i,  93 

Clam  and  Oyster  Stew,  Milk  for      .     .  93 

Cocoanut  Cones 47 

Cookies,  Soft  Sugar 190 

Corn  Beef,  Creamed 285 

Corned  Beef,  How  to  boil       ....  92 

Corn,  Parched 285 

Coupe  Jacques 279 

Cranberry  Granite 279 

Cream,  Caramel  Ice 140 

Cream,  Devonshire 146 

Cream,  Mocha,  with  Sugar     ....  231 

Cream  Sauce,  Whipped 144 

Creme  de  Menthe 141 

Creme  de  Menthe  Ice 45 

Currants,  Spiced,  Bottled 37 

Currant-Jelly  Sauce 39 

Curry  Sauce,  Color  of 39 

Diabetics,  Cook  Book  for       ....  237 

Diet,  Anti-fat 277 

Doughnuts 193 

Dressing,  Boiled 278 

Dressing,  French 282 

Duck  and  Goose,  Roasting  of    .     .     .  188 

Egg  Balls 281 

Eggs,  How  add  to  Hot  Mixture      .     .  92 

Eggs,  Poached 92 

Eggs,  Shirred 231 

Eggs,  Stuffed 41 

Eggs,  Why  crack  in  Boiling   .     .     .     .  191 

Fillets  Minion  a  la  Bordelaise     ...  191 

Fish, 'Baked 92 

Fish,  Frying  of 186 

Fluids  for  Tinting  Food 234 

Fondant  Candies 284 

Fondant  Maple 284 

Food  for  Public  Speaker 46 

Frosting,  Boiled 92 

Fruit  Punch  and  Syrups 46 

Fruit  Tapioca 39 

Gauffre  Irons 46 

Geese,  Washing  with  Soap     ....  239 

Gelatine,  Quantity  in  Box       ....  284 

Ginger,  How  to  serve  Canton     .     .     .  232 

Gingerbread 192 

Gluten  Cases,  Creamed  Oysters  in  .     .  236 


Gluten,  Cheese  Wafers  with        .     .     .  235 

Gluten,  Cocoanut  Cakes  with      ...  236 

Gluten,  Nut  Wafers  with 236 

Graham  Gems  and  Muffins     ....  231 

Jam,  Strawberry 47 

Jelly,  Currant .  •  140 

Jelly,  Green-grape 94 

Jelly,  Lemon 192 

Jelly,  Tomato 142 

Kisses  and  Meringues 191 

Lamb,  Crown  Roast 282 

Laundry,  Sal-soda  for  the 142 

Loaf,  Salmon 186 

Luncheon,  Engagement,  Ideas  for  .     .  193 

Macaroons,  Ingredients  for    ....  232 

Mayonnaise  Cream 93 

Meats,  Cooking  of  Various     ....  145 

Menu,  Children's  Party 38 

Menu  for  Music  Club 141 

Menu  for  "  Stag  "  Dinner       ....  141 

Menus,  Preserves  and  Tea  in  Supper,  237 

Meringue,  Chocolate 92 

Moulds,  Earthenware 139 

Muffins,  Sugar  in  Entire -wheat        .     .  139 

Mushrooms  cooked  under  Glass      .     .  236 

Mushrooms,  Preparation  and  Cooking,  236 

Mushrooms,  Stewed 237 

Mutton,  Scalloped 142 

Mutton  Hash 143 

Newburgh,  Lobster 92 

Omelet,  French 283 

Omelet,  Kornlet 285 

Onion  Souffle 144 

Orange  Compote 234 

Orange  Bavariose 233 

Pan  Dowdy 234 

Paprika 142 

Paste,  Plain,  with  Butter 94 

Pears,  Sweet  Pickled 41 

Pickles,  Citron,  Sweet 280 

Pickles,  Green  Sour 192 

Pie,  Potato 192 

Pie,  Shepherd's 143 

Popovers 43 

Potatoes,  Hashed  Brown 237 

Preserve,  Strawberry  Tomato      ...  90 

Psychology,  Work  on 90 

Pudding,  Baked  Indian 144 

Pudding,  Batter 94 

Pudding,  Brick  Mould  for  Steamed     .  239 

Pudding,  Frozen 91 

Pudding,  Nesselrode 144 

Pudding,  Peach,  Steamed 94 

Pudding,  Steamed  Indian 144 

Pudding,  Suet  with  Figs 90 

Pudding,  Yorkshire 232 

Pumpkin  Pie,  Cracking  of      .     .     .     .  284 

Pumpkin  Preserve 42 

Recipes  for  Foreign  Cookery      .     .     .  282 
Refrigerator,  one  for  Butter  and  Odor- 
less Food 90 

Rhubarb  Preserved 48 

Roll,  Sultana 91 

Rolls,  Rasped 89 

Salad,  Duck 282 

Salad,  Fruit 140 

Salad,  Potato 93 


Complete  Index 


111 


Salt,  Use  of  in  Cooking  Vegetables     .  i88 

Samp,  Baltimore 279 

Sandwiches,  Curried  Oysters       ...  90 

Sandwiches,  Ham  and  Egg    ....  238 

Sauce,  Bordelaise 191 

Sauce,  Creamy 94 

Sauce,  Currant -jelly  and  Lemon     .     .  188 

Sauce,  Ravigote 190 

Sauce,  Sabayon 94 

Sherbet,  Strawberry 279 

Shrimp  Sauce 40 

Soup,  Clear  Turtle 283 

Soup,  Cream 191 

Soup,  Cream  of  Cauliflower  .     .     .     .  191 
Soup,  Mock   Turtle,  Oyster   Gumbo, 

and  Ox-tail 281 

Spinach  Cooking 139 

Spinach,  French  Method  of  Cooking,  47 

Sticks,  Pecan  or  Peanut     .     .     .       139,  232 

Strawberries,  Lemonade 44 

Strawberries,  To  preserve  Whole    .     .  47 

Strawberry  Sauce 43 

Sucre  de  la  Creme 285 

Sugar,  Maple,  and  Walnut  Creams      .  284 

Tea,  Sunday  Night 43 

Test  of  Heat  in  Baking 282 

Thermometer,  Oven 44 

Toast,  Dry 44 

Tripe,  Recipes  for 89 

Vegetables,  Green     .     .     .     .     ,     .     .  282 

Wax  Floor 146 


Recipes,  Boston  Cooking  School:  — 


Arros  con  Tomates  .     . 

Bouillon       

Cake,  Buckwheat  .  . 
Cake,  Devil's  Food  .  . 
Cake,  Newport  .  .  . 
Carni  con  Chili     .     .     . 

Chocolate 

Cookies,  Chocolate  Fruit 
Crabs,  Mock  .... 
Cream,  Coffee  .  .  . 
Cream,  Pekoe  .... 
Cream  Toast  .... 
Cream,  Vanilla  Ice  .  . 
Eggs,  Lucanian  .  .  . 
Fritters,  Coffee  .  .  . 
Frosting,  Boiled  .  .  . 
Muffins,  Hominy  .  .  . 
Oysters,  Fried  .... 
Pie,  Filling  for  Lemon  . 
Relish,  Philadelphia  .  . 
Sauce,  Coffee  .... 
Sauce,  Coffee  Cream 
Sauce,  Creole  .... 
Soup,  Appledore  .  .  . 
Tarts,  Coffee  Cream 
Tartlets,  Apple     .     .     . 


257 
210 
258 
211 
211 

257 
258 
211 

257 
258 

258 

257 
211 
258 
210 
211 
210 
210 
210 
210 
211 
211 
257 
257 
258 
210 


Recipes,  Seasonable:  — 

Africans,  or  Othellos 131 

Apple  Pur6e,  Jellied 177 

Apples,  Baked 225 

Apples,  Porter       82 

Apple  Souffle,  Nos.  1,2     .     .     .     .     .  133 


Apricot  Sauce 128 

Artichokes,  Jerusalem 224 

Asparagus  a  la  Indienne 174 

Asparagus,  Cream  of 265 

Asparagus  Soup 26 

Baba  with  Fruit 128 

Banana  Custard 32 

Biscuit  with  Pistachios 131 

Blackberry  Shortcake 78 

Bouchees 225 

Bread,  Barley 224 

Bread  Panada 223 

Bread  Sticks 179 

Brioche 125,  126,  127 

Brook  Trout 30,  265 

Buns 128,  129 

Butter,  Black .  177 

Cake,  Chocolate 269 

Cake,  Cream  Sponge 270 

Cake,  Currant 34 

Cake,  Dutch  Peach 77 

Cake,  Mocha 130 

Cake,  Newport 269 

Cake,  Pound 131 

Cake,  Quick  Loaf 270 

Cake,  Saratoga  Corn 269 

Cake,  Scotch 34 

Cake,  Sponge  and  Sunshine  .     ...  130 

Cake,  Thanksgiving 129 

Cakes,  Flannel 83 

Cakes,  Green  Corn 82 

Cakes,  Lady -fingers 131 

Cakes,  Lemon  Queens 131 

Cakes,  Madeline's 132 

Cantaloupe,  Ice  in 80 

Cauliflower,  Baked 77 

Celery  with  Sauce 224 

Charlotte  Russe 33 

Chestnut  Timbale 176 

Chicken  a  la  Stanley 34 

Chicken,  Broiled  Alabama  Style      .     .  28 

Chicken,  Creamed 173 

Chicken  Custard 25,  176 

Chicken  Cutlets 26 

Chicken  Loaf 28 

Chicken,  Shells  of 223 

Chicken,  Salpicon  of 176 

Chicken,  Virginia  style 77 

Cookies,  German  Chocolate  ....  34 

Cookies,  Wine  Drop 133 

Cranberry  Puffs 133 

Croquettes,  Rice  and  Cheese      .     .     .  125 

Custard,  Boiled 270 

Egg  Plant  au  Gratin 78 

Eggs  Baked  with  Cheese 76 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shirring-cups     ...  75 

Eggs,  Poached  w'ith  Croutons  of  Ham,  76 
Eggs,  Scrambled  with  Tomatoes  and 

Green  Pepper 76 

Egg  and  Tomato  Salad 30 

Fish  a  la  Creme  with  Potato  Border    .  221 

Fish,  Fillets  of.  Ambassador  Style       .  221 

Fish,  Fresh,  Boiled 220 

Fish,  Salt  Cod  in  Egg  Cups   ....  221 

Frosting,  Maple  Sugar 129 

Fruit,  Salpicon  of 80,  180 

Ginger,  Bavariose  of 79 


IV 


Complete   Index 


33 
1 80 


Ginger,  Bombe  Glace  and  Sherbet . 
Gingerbread,  New  York     .... 

Grape  Cream 272 

Ham  Remnants 267 

Hamburg  Cream ;^2 

Ice-cream 81 

Ice-cream,  Chocolate 272 

Ice-cream,  Peach 81 

Ice-cream,  Pistachio 271 

Jelly,  Grape      .     .     .     , 82 

Jelly,  Orange 180,  271 

Jelly,  Pineapple 80 

Jelly,  Rhubarb 271 

Juice,  Grape 82 

Lemonade, .  81 

Lobster,  Creole  vUyle 173 

Lobster  and  Plalibut 174 

Lobster,  Turban  of 26 

Loin  of  Veal     .     .     .     = 29 

Macaroni  au.  Gratin 219 

Macaroni,  Curry  of 173 

Macaroni  and  Cheese 269 

Macaroons,  Walnut 34 

Melon,  Salad  of    .     .  ' 80 

Meringues 132,  133 

Milk  Sherbet 33 

Mousse  Caramel 81 

Muffins,    Blueberry,    Corn   Meal,  and 

Entire-wheat 83 

Mutton 222 

Onions,  Stuffed 224 

Orange,  Candied 226 

Orange  Wafers 34 

Oysters,  Devilled 268 

Oysters,  Green  Corn 82 

Oysters  with  Cream 173 

Oysters,  Poached 219 

Pastry  Cream 179 

Pie,  Filling  for  Cranbeny 178 

Pineapple  Cream 272 

Pineapple  Mousse 271 

Pineapple  Jelly 80 

Pineapple  with  Rice 79 

Potatoes  with  Fish 266 

Pudding,  English 226 

Pudding,  Steamed  Fruit 178 


Puffs,  Blueberry 

Punch,  Fruit 

Rarebit,  Cheese  and  Tomato      .     .     . 

Rarebit  en  Casserole 

Rhubarb  with  Jelly 

Rolls,  Salad 

Salad,  Cucumber 

Salad,  Lobster 

Salad,  Salmon  and  Green  Peas  .     .     . 

Sandwiches,  Hot  Ham 

Sauce,  Chantilly  Apple 

Sauce,  Chaudfroid 

Sauce,  Cranberry  and  Raisin       .     ,     . 
Sauce,  Cranberry  Pudding      .     .     .     . 

Sauce,  Hollandaise 

Sauce,  Messina 

Sauce,  Vanilla 

Sausage  with  Apple  Sauce      .     .     .     . 

Shortcake,  Blackberry 

Souffle,  Fig 

Soup,  Creole 

Soup,  Cream  of  Celery 

Soup,  Cream  of  Potato 

Soup,  Green  Corn 

Spinach  Balls 

Steaks,  Baked  Halibut 

Stock  for  Soup 

Strawberries,  Iced  Puree  of    ...     . 
Strawberry  Cream  in  Glasses      .     .     . 

Strawberry  Shortcake 

Strawberry  Souffle 

Strawberry  Tapioca 

Strawberry  Trifle 

Stuffing  for  Fowi 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Newburg     .     .     .     . 

Tapioca,  Indian 

Toast,  Cream 

Tomatoes  a  la  St.  Jacques      .     .     .     . 
Tomatoes  with  Macaroni  and  Cheese, 

Turkey,  Fillets  of 

Veal  Forcemeat  Balls 

Veal  Rolls  a  la  Jardiniere       .     .     .     . 

Vegetables,  Curried 

Venison,  Saddle  of 

Waffles,  Rich 

Waffles  with  Sour  Milk 


31 

81 

174 

76 

32 

179 

267 

267 

29 

^3 

177 

222 

124 

133 

266 
178 
272 
175 
78 
270 

25 
175 
175 

75 
268 

265 
219 
32 
31 
34 
32 
31 
32 
124 

^73 

225 

219 

78 

75 

125 

27 

267 

29 

77 

83 

83 


THE 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  V. 


JUNE  AND  JULY,   1900. 


No.   I, 


INDIVIDUAL    ECONOMICS. 

By  Kate  Sanborn. 


This  may  not  be  a  suitable  theme 
for  a  cooking  magazine.  Yet,  as  the 
best  methods  to  nourish  and  preserve 
our  bodies  are  treated  b}'  culinary  ex- 
perts, my  talk  is  closely  akin. 

We  are  strangely  wasteful  as  regards 
our  minds  and  bodies,  and  a  majority 
commit  suicide  by  overeating,  over- 
work, needless  rush  and  worries,  and 
the  most  reckless,  criminal  carelessness 
about  the  simplest  rules  of  health.  Let 
me  illustrate. 

We  were  sitting  down  to  our  usual 
Sunday  Boston  breakfast.  You  know 
just  what  we  had  (only  I  always  add 
a  piece  of  salt  pork  cut  in  tiny  squares 
and  browned  to  a  delicious  golden 
crisp),  when  the  door  opened  and  in 
walked  a  woman  physician,  strong, 
original,  progressive,  cheery,  whom  I 
always  rejoice  to  see. 

"  I  thought  I  would  surprise  you  at 
breakfast,"  she  said.  "  I've  been  up 
since  four  this  morning;  called  to  re- 
lieve a  man  from  terrible  pain,  who  is 
simply  killing  himself,  —  a  self-indul- 
gent glutton. 

"  '  What  have  you  been  eating  ? '  was 
my  first  question. 

" '  Oh,    only  green   peas   and  quail. 


some  live  broiled  lobster,  radishes,  and 
potato  salad.  And  —  yes,  some  ice- 
cream; that  may  have  caused  the 
trouble.' 

"  '  And  you  threatened  for  weeks  with 
appendicitis  !  '  I  exclaimed. 

"  I  proceeded  to  relieve  him  of  his 
immediate  tortures :  but  is  it  not  strange 
that  so  many  otherwise  sensible  per- 
sons cannot  restrain  their  appetites?  " 

Then  we  forgot  this  unpleasant  sim- 
pleton and  began  to  eat  twice  as  much 
as  we  needed. 

This  man  must  soon  leave  his  fine 
family,  his  prosperous  business,  his 
ambitions,  hopes,  and  home  delights, 
because  he  will  stuff  to  dangerous  re- 
pletion. And,  while  we  moralize  and 
despise,  we  are  doing  the  same  thing, 
in  one  way  or  another.  We  do  not 
realize  the  danger  until  some  settled 
disease  forces  us,  frightened  and  sur- 
prised, to  stop  and  repent. 

One  of  the  noblest  women  I  ever 
knew  died  recently  because  she  would 
rather  die  than  diet.  Handsome,  ac- 
complished, musical,  energetic,  blessed 
with  unusual  vigor  and  enthusiasm ; 
the  centre  of  an  admiring  circle  of 
friends,  idolized  by  her  husband,  the 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


proud  mother  of  a  splendid  family  ;  — 
all  this  sacrificed  for  the  pleasures  of 
the  table. 

You  know  that  Dr.  Abernethy  de- 
clared that  "stuff  and  worry"  killed 
most  of  us.  Humboldt  said  at  eighty 
years,  *'  The  whole  of  life  is  the  utmost 
insanity."  And  really,  when  one  stops 
to  think,  he  seems  about  right. 

Our  constitutions  are  marred  for  us 
long  before  birth  by  the  excesses  or 
overwork  of  our  ancestors.  We  enter 
life  seriously  handicapped  and  then 
proceed  to  destroy  ourselves.  Think 
of  what  is  now  demanded  of  child- 
ren and  young  persons  in  the  way  of 
education,  besides  what  they  have  to 
encounter  in  the  diseases  that  lie  in 
wait  for  them.  As  we  are  here  but  an 
instant,  comparatively,  why  should  it 
be  obligatory  on  each  boy  and  girl  to 
learn  of  all  that  has  been  done  on 
earth  ?  In  another  existence,  do  you 
imagine  it  will  be  of  the  least  import- 
ance that  we  know  how  many  soldiers 
were  slain  at  a  certain  battle  in  Greece  ? 

Oh,  give  the  children  more  lessons 
out  of  doors,  as  some  wise  teachers  are 
now  doing!  Let  them  enjoy  nature 
and  store  up  strength  for  future  needs. 
The  press  is  full  of  complaints  of  the 
unreasonable  demands  upon  young 
brains,  and  many  little  ones  fall  by  the 
way.  This  is  far  from  true  economy : 
nearer  insanity. 

In  business  and  the  professions,  all 
who  rise  to  high  positions  are  cruelly 
overworked.  Men  work  till  they  drop. 
Angina  pectoris  lately  seized  in  its 
fatal  clutches  a  business  man  who  gave 
himself  no  rest.  His  physician  accom- 
panied him  to  a  famous  specialist,  who, 
after  making  a  careful  examination, 
solemnly  shook  his  head.  The  doctor 
said:  "  Mr. will  not  be  moderate: 


he  has  always  done  the  work  of  seven 
men  in  business,  and  worked  harder 
than  ever  on  Sunday ;  will  race  to  catch 
a  train  when  one  will  follow  in  ten 
minutes."  The  specialist  said:  "Sir, 
you  are  in  serious  danger.  The  only 
hope  you  have  is  to  take  everything  in 
life  slowly  and  eat  only  half  what  you 
are  accustomed  to." 

Never  was  a  man  more  amazed,  more 
alarmed.  He  cannot  understand  the 
situation ;  he  has  wasted  his  vital  forces. 
The  lesson  is  severe. 

Emotional  prodigality  wears  out 
many;  social  duties,  many  more.  I 
have  known  three  women  to  be  made 
insane  by  excessive  devotion  to  club 
work ;  two  teachers  that  I  once  worked 
with  are  in  asylums.  Herbert  Spencer 
speaks  with  emphasis  of  the  pressure 
of  modern  life,  the  increasing  strain  on 
old  and  young,  children  injured  by  un- 
due study,  college  girls  whose  systems 
are  damaged  for  life. 

And  now  about  our  sinful  neglect  of 
our  own  bodies.  From  the  crown  of 
our  heads  to  the  soles  of  our  feet  are 
we  not  verily  guilty  ? 

I  saw  a  little  tot  of  a  boy  in  a  bar- 
ber's chair  the  other  day,  a  big  apron 
around  him,  while  the  tonsorial  artist 
was  rapidly  clipping  off  almost  all  the 
hair  on  his  head. 

This  sort  of  thing  kept  up  for  forty 
years,  wearing  hats  that  heat  the  scalp, 
keeping  the  brain  in  a  state  of  feverish 
excitement  —  why  is  baldness  a  mys- 
tery?    The  follicles  get  discouraged. 

Those  who  allow  their  hair  to  grow 
naturally  may  look  eccentric,  but  their 
heads  don't  resemble  billiard  balls. 

The  crimping -irons  do  equally  de- 
structive work  for  women's  heads. 

Too  many  women  look  as  if  they 
needed  a  Turkish  bath,  facial  massage 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


to  clear  up  the  complexion,  and  a  trip 
to  the  dentist.  Tartar  on  under  teeth 
is  frequently  noticed.  Where  teeth 
are  so  precious  it  ought  to  be  a  sacred 
duty  to  preserve  them. 

Most  of  the  annoying  throat  diseases 
which  are  apt  to  extend  to  the  lungs 
are  caused  by  uncleanliness.  So  says 
one  of  the  most  distinguished  throat 
specialists  of  this  countr\\  At  night 
the  back  of  the  throat  is  often  clogged 
by  mucus.  This,  unremoved  by  disin- 
fecting gargles,  produces  most  of  the 
trouble.     And  so  on  to  the  feet,  which 


we  cramp,  and  torture,  and  neglect, 
until  they  revenge  themselves  by  mak- 
ing our  daily  walk  a  Bunion's  pilgrim's 
progress. 

Longevity  clubs  are  now  fashionable, 
and  starvation  is  the  present  fad.  Both 
good. 

Almost  every  disease  is  brought  on 
from  our  breaking  the  laws  of  health. 
God  does  not  send  our  sicknesses.  It 
is  blasphemous  to  say  so.  We  do 
wrong;  we  kill  ourselves.  We  do  not 
respect  the  simplest  rules  of  individual 
economics. 


JUNE  LUNCHEONS, 

By  Eleanor  ^L  Lucas. 


In  June  a  luncheon  with  clover 
blossoms  for  decoration  is  quite  ap- 
propriate and  in  harmony  with  the 
season. 

We  will  arrange  our  clover  luncheon 
to  carry  out  a  pink-and-green  color 
scheme  upon  a  shining  background, 
and  we  will  select,  first  of  all,  a  round 
table  of  mahogany  and  use  it  without 
a  cloth  ;  for,  if  we  wish  to  be  correct 
in  the  fashion  of  the  day,  we  must  fold 
away  our  linen  covers,  and  serve  our 
luncheon  on  a  table  aglow  like  a 
"  schoolboy's  morning  face." 

Having  polished  our  table  until  a 
rich,  full  gloss  is  obtained,  we  place  in 
the  centre  a  form,  shaped  like  a  four-leaf 
clover,  and  thickly  studded  with  pink 
clover  heads ;  the  whole  is  effectively 
outlined  with  a  fringe  of  green.  The 
form  is  cut  from  heavy  cardboard  and 
thickly  padded  with  damp  moss,  into 
which  the  clover  blooms  are  thrust. 

The  individual  doilies,  the  pieces  for 


water  carafes,  bonbon  trays,  etc.,  are 
made  of  interlaced  strips  of  Japanese 
linen  in  pale  green.  The  strips  are 
first  doubled,  the  raw  edges  turned  in 
and  sewed  invisibly.  The  strips  are 
then  woven  perpendicularly  and  hori- 
zontally to  form  small  squares,  or  ob- 
longs, and  each  intersection  is  decorated 
with  a  small  many-rayed  star,  done  with 
silver  thread.  The  ends  of  the  linen 
strips,  projecting  an  inch  on  all  sides, 
are  ravelled  to  make  a  fringe.  These 
are  simply  made,  are  very  effective, 
cool-looking,  and  dainty. 

At  either  side  of  the  centrepiece 
we  place  small  plates  wreathed  with 
clover  blooms,  holding  small  clover- 
leaf-shaped  cakes  masked  with  green 
icing. 

The  bonbons  are  fresh  raspberries 
dipped  in  fondant  and  tinted  pink. 
The  pretty  pink  balls  are  placed  on 
leaf-shaped  plates  of  green  glass  flecked 
with  silver.     At  each  place  is  a  small. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


dainty  wreath  of  pink  clover  blossoms, 
relieved  with  sprays  of  greenery,  which 
may  be  used  as  a  floral  bracelet, —  a 
pretty,  graceful  fashion  surrounded  by 
the  charm  of  novelty.    The  name  cards, 
of  pale  green,  are  in  the  shape  of  a 
clover  leaf,  prettily  outlined  with  silver 
ink  ;  the  name  is  put  on  one  lobe;  on 
another  lobe  one  reads  a  pretty  quo- 
tation or  proverb  like  the  following  : — 
"  Live  in  clover." 
*'  Chance  may  win." 
"Welcome  as  a  four-leaf  clover." 
"  Better  be  born  lucky  than  rich." 
"  A  pound  of  pluck  is  worth  a  ton 
of  luck." 

Having  arranged  the  table,  let  us 
give  thought  to  the  menu.  The  fol- 
lowing contains  dishes  and  dainties 
specifically  devised  for  hot  weather :  — 

Strawberries,  Parisian  Style. 
Grilled  Sardines  on  Toast,  Ravigotte 
Butter.    Cucumbers. 
Roasted  Reedbirds,  Cress  Garnish. 
Corn  Creams,  Tomato  Sauce. 
Olives  in  Aspic. 
Salad  of  Nuts,  Pink  Mayonnaise,  in  Green- 
Pepper  Cases. 
Beaten  Biscuit,  Clover-Scented  Butter. 
Mint  Parfait.     Clover  Cakes. 
Raspberry  Conserves.     Currant  Julep. 

Hull  the  strawberries ;  to  each  quart 
add  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  orange  water,  and,  if  the 
palate  dictates  it,  a  tablespoonful  of 
brandy.  Set  on  ice  for  half  an  hour, 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar,  mix  lightly,  and  serve  in  dainty 
green  glass  shells. 

The  sardines  are  drained  from  oil 
on  blotting-paper,  and  broiled  on  an 
oyster  broiler.  Have  ready  some  lemon 
juice,  mixed  with  very  fine-chopped 
parsley;  as  each  sardine  is  done,  dip 
it  in  this,  and  place  on  a  hot  platter, 
overlaid  with   narrow  strips   of  toast ; 


garnish  with  parsley,  tiny  balls  of  ravi- 
gotte butter,  and  rounds  of  lemon. 

The  butter  is  prepared  by  throwing 
a  handful,  each,  of  parsley,  chervil,  and 
cress  into  boiling  water ;  let  boil  five 
minutes,  drain,  chop  very  fine,  and 
pound  to  a  smooth  paste.  When  very 
cold  mix  with  each  tablespoonful  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  adding  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of 
nutmeg.  Chill,  form  into  tiny  balls,  and 
chill  again.  Cut  the  yellow  rind  from 
a  lemon,  slice  it  very  thin,  lay  a  little 
green  ball  on  each  slice,  and  dispose 
around  the  dish. 

Patty-pans,  in  clover-leaf  shapes,  can 
be  obtained  at  any  tinsmith's,  and  the 
same  set  of  pans  will  answer  for  the 
corn  creams,  the  cakes,  and  for  mould- 
ing the  aspics.  The  cakes  are  baked 
first,  the  pans  are  washed  and  used  for 
the  aspics,  which  are  turned  out  before 
the  pans  are  required  for  the  corn. 

Grate  the  corn  from  the  ears ;  to  each 
cup  mix  in  the  unbeaten  whites  of 
three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  half 
a  cup  of  thick  sweet  cream,  whipped 
slightly.  Dust  the  buttered  pan  very 
thickly  with  chopped  parsley,  fill  with 
the  corn  mixture,  place  in  a  baking- 
pan  of  hot  water,  and  cook  in  the 
oven  twenty-five  minutes.  Have  ready 
a  large  round  platter,  arrange  a  pretty 
nest  of  parsley  in  the  centre;  in  this 
place  the  bowl  containing  the  pink 
sauce,  and  lay  the  corn  about  the  edge 
of  the  dish  with  a  few  parsley  points. 

The  salad  course  is  especially  pretty. 
Render  some  delicately  flavored  aspic 
partly  liquid,  and  color  it  green.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  each  clover-leaf  patty- 
pan ;  when  partly  firm  put  in  a  layer  of 
olives,  stoned  and  cut  in  halves,  and 
just  cover  with  aspic.     Set  on   ice  to 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


5 


chill  and  harden.  Unmould,  and  place 
on  a  dish  overlaid  with  a  lace- paper 
mat. 

The  salad  is  composed  of  equal  parts 
of  tender  lettuce  and  blanched  almonds 
cut  in  strips.  Color  the  mayonnaise 
with  tomatoes  that  have  been  stewed 
until  thick,  strained  and  cooled.  Cut 
a  slice  from  the  stem  end  of  green  bell 
peppers,  remove  the  seeds,  and  let  lie 
in  ice  water  one  hour  ;  drain  and  wipe 
dry.  Mix  the  nuts  and  shredded  let- 
tuce with  part  of  the  mayonnaise,  fill 
into  the  peppers,  heap  some  of  the 
pink  mayonnaise  on  each,  and  serve 
on  individual  plates  overlaid  with  pink- 
edged  lace-paper  mats. 

The  parfait  is  made  in  the  usual 
way;  a  half-cup  of  chopped  green  mint 
leaves  is  added  to  the  hot  syrup  just 
before  removing  it  from  the  fire.  Strain 
through  a  coarse  sieve  and  proceed  in 
the  usual  way ;  color  green.  Have 
ready  some  small  paper  boxes,  clover- 
leaf  shaped.  These  are  easily  made. 
Cut  a  pattern  of  a  large  clover  leaf, 
about  three  inches  long.  From  this 
cut  as  many  forms  as  desired  from  stiff 
cardboard.  Sew  a  little  strip  of  stiff 
paper,  an  inch  wide,  around  the  rim, 
and  fill  with  the  parfait.  Set  the  cases 
in  a  tin  pail,  with  waxed  paper  between 
each  layer  of  cases.  Cover  the  pail, 
bind  the  seam  with  a  strip  of  cotton 
cloth  dipped  in  hot  suet,  pack  in  equal 
parts  of  ice  and  salt,  and  let  remain 
four  hours.  When  about  to  serve,  cut 
away  the  cardboard,  and  slip  on  to  a 
pretty  plate  ;  garnish  with  a  garland  of 
clover  blossoms. 

Currant  Julep. 

Mash  a  pint  of  currants,  add  a  pint 
of  water,  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  then 
strain  through  cheese-cloth.  Set  on 
ice    to    chill.       Take    some    tall,    thin 


glasses,  put  crushed  ice  in  the  bottom 
of  each,  and  three  cubes  of  sugar ; 
line  with  tender  mint  stalks  just  tall 
enough  to  come  well  above  the  brim, 
all  around  the  edges.  Place  three 
ripe  raspberries,  crushed  slightly,  on 
top  of  the  sugar,  then  fill  the  glasses, 
to  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  with  the 
iced  currant  water.  Serve  with  straws 
tied  with  narrow  ribbons  of  green  and 
pink. 

A  Cherry  Luncheon. 

This  is  a  most  appropriate  function 
on  a  June  day.  The  table  is  draped 
with  snowy  linen  and  in  the  centre 
stands  a  low,  round  basket  filled  with 
moss,  banked  slightly  toward  the  cen- 
tre. In  this  arrange  tiers  of  perfect 
red  cherries,  placing  them  with  the 
stem  end  down  and  close  together. 
Border  the  ruddy  mound  with  fragrant 
white  roses,  clustering  in  their  own 
green  foliage.  The  table  service  should 
be  white  and  the  doilies,  also,  have 
no  hint  of  color,  save  perhaps  delicate 
traceries  in  green.  Tiny  green  enam- 
elled wicker  baskets,  with  rims  of 
frosted  silver,  are  filled  with  cherries 
and  crowned  with  a  spray  of  white  rose- 
buds and  green  leaves.  With  one  of 
these  dainty  little  baskets  beside  each 
plate  and  the  name  card,  the  effect 
will  be,  like  the  season,  "  prodigal  of 
harmony." 

The  cards  are  white,  large,  and 
square ;  the  purity  of  their  background 
is  intensified  by  the  sketch  of  clusters 
of  cherries,  rich  and  glowing,  and  their 
glossy  green  leaves.  The  quotations 
are  to  be  chosen  for  the  month.  Selec- 
tions may  be  made  like  the  follow- 
ing: — 

"  June  her  floral  treasures  flings. 
While  above  a  robin  sings." 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


"Come  and  leave  your  cares  behind  you, 
Pleads  the  blithesome  spirit,  June." 

At  this  luncheon,  the  cherries  are 
served  in  all  ways  tempting  and  deli- 
cious; the  following  is  an  excellent 
summer  feast :  — 

Cherry  Soup.     Wafers.     Toasted  Almonds. 

Lobster  Cream.     Rose  Radishes. 

Broiled  Lamb  Cutlets,  Cherry  Sauce. 

Green  Peas. 

Cherry  Salad  ix  Lettuce  Leaves, 

Cream  Mayonnaise, 

Frozen  Cherries.  Sponge  Drops. 

Candied  Cherries.     Cherry  Cup. 

Broiled  Cutlets. 
Chops  or  cutlets  are  more  delicate, 
if  broiled  in  paper  cases.  They  should 
be  wrapped  singly  in  brown  paper,  the 
edges  turned  over  and  pinched  close 
to  the  meat.  Broil  over  hot  coals. 
The  paper  will  char  a  long  time  before 
igniting,  and  the  meat  will  be  basted 
in  its  own  juices.  The  time  required 
for  broiling  chops  in  cases  is  about 
ten  minutes.  Remove  the  paper,  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Cherry  Sauce 
for  lamb  is  made  by  covering  a  pint  of 
cherries  with  a  pint  of  w^ater ;  add  two 
pounded  cloves  ;  when  the  cherries  are 
soft  rub  through  a  sieve,  return  to  the 
fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  blended 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook 
five  minutes.  Stir  in  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  claret. 
Serve  hot. 

Cherry  Salad. 
Wash,  remove  stalks  and  stones  from 
a  pint  of  large  cherries.  Be  careful  to 
bruise  the  fruit  as  little  as  possible. 
Place  in  each  cherry  a  hazel-nut  ker- 
nel ;  this  preserves  their  form.  Chill, 
arrange  in  little  heart  leaves  of  lettuce, 


and    pour  over   a   cream    mayonnaise 
tinted  a  delicate  green. 

Frozefi   Cherries. 

Boil  one  quart  of  water  and  two  cups 
of  sugar  ten  minutes ;  dip  out  two 
tablespoonfuls  and  set  aside.  Add  to 
the  remainder  a  tablespoonful  of  gela- 
tine that  has  been  soaked  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  cold  water  ten  minutes,  and 
strain  into  the  can  of  the  freezer.  When 
cold  add  one  cup  of  lemon  juice  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water, 
cover,  and  turn  the  crank  slowly,  until 
it  becomes  difficult  to  turn  longer. 
Beat  the  white  of  an  ^gg  to  a  stiff 
foam,  add  the  reserved  syrup,  made  hot, 
and  beat  until  stiff  and  creamy.  Pour 
into  the  freezer,  and  turn  the  crank 
until  well  mixed.  Remove  the  dasher, 
scrape  the  frozen  mixture  from  the 
sides  of  the  can,  and  beat  with  a  spoon 
till  smooth.  Hollow  out  the  centre  by 
piling  the  ice  against  the  sides  of  the 
can.  Fill  this  hollow  with  a  pint  of 
cherries,  washed  and  stoned.  Add  to 
them  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar 
and  half  a  cup  of  almonds  blanched 
and  chopped  fine.  Cover  with  the 
frozen  mixture;  pack  the  freezer,  and 
let  stand  three  hours.  When  about  to 
serve,  turn  out  and  serve  in  slices. 
Cherry   Cup. 

Put  in  a  bowl  one  pint  of  cherries, 
stoned  and  bruised,  the  juice  of  three 
lemons,  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon, 
and  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar. 
Cover,  and  let  stand  one  hour  or 
longer.  Add  one  quart  of  water,  strain 
through  a  vegetable  press,  then  through 
cheese-cloth.  Add  a  pint  of  claret,  and 
set  on  ice.  Serve  in  punch  glasses 
with  handles ;  to  each  put  a  spoonful 
of  shaved  ice,  a  few  fine  cherries  cut 
small,  and  a  sprig  of  green  borage. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


SOME  DUTIES  OF  A  WAITRESS 

By  Catherine  J.  Coolidge,  Drexel  Institute. 

PART  IV. 
The  Weekly  Cleaning,  and  Care  of  Lamps. 


If  the  floor  is  painted,  varnished,  or 
oiled,  crude  petroleum  may  be  used 
instead  of  water;  it  serves  a  double 
purpose,  as  it  cleanses  and  polishes  the 
floor  at  the  same  time.  Apply  the 
petroleum  (in  very  small  quantity)  with 
a  soft  cloth,  rub  briskly,  and  follow 
always  the  grain  of  the  wood.  Allow  it 
to  dry  one  or  two  hours,  then  polish  by 
rubbing  vigorously  with  clean  woollen 
cloths.  Unless  the  floor  is  thoroughly 
polished,  dust  will  cling  to  it,  and  it 
will  look  worse  than  it  did  before 
cleaning.  Crude  petroleum  is  more 
effective  than  refined  petroleum.  The 
disagreeable  odor  accompanying  its 
use  soon  passes  off,  if  the  windows  are 
left  open  during  the  drying. 

For  painted  and  shellaced  floors, 
warm  water,  used  as  described,  proves 
very  satisfactory,  and  is  easier  to  use 
than  petroleum. 

Waxed  surfaces  should  never  be 
treated  with  oil. 

Waxed  floors  are  the  most  difficult 
to  care  for.  The  wax  for  polishing 
may  be  bought  already  prepared,  or 
may  be  mixed  at  home.  It  is  more  con- 
venient for  most  housekeepers  to  use 
the  ready-made  article.  Liquid  polish 
is  more  easily  applied,  and  does  not 
require  so  much  rubbing  to  give  a  high 
polish ;  but  the  surface  is  made  more 
slippery  than  when  the  harder  form  is 
used.  Put  the  wax  where  it  will  grow 
warm  and  soft.  Wipe  all .  the  dust 
from  the  floor  with  a  cloth  which  has 
been  dipped  in  warm  water,  and  wrung 


as  dry  as  possible.  Go  over  the  floor 
carefully,  and  remove  any  spots  with  tur- 
pentine. Moisten  a  flannel  cloth  with 
the  softened  wax,  which  should  be  of 
one  consistency,  and  apply  it  quickly 
to  a  portion  of  the  floor.  Go  over  all 
the  surface  in  this  way,  then  leave  it 
an  hour  or  more  if  there  is  time.  Rub 
with  a  weighted  brush,  first  across  the 
grain,  then  with  the  grain,  and,  when 
the  whole  floor  is  polished,  cover  the 
brush  with  a  clean  woollen  cloth  or  car- 
pet, and  go  over  the  surface  again 
until  it  has  reached  the  desired  polish. 

If  sticky  fly-paper  is  overturned  on 
the  floor  or  furniture,  the  spot  may  be 
removed  by  applying  benzine.  Keep 
the  bottle  of  benzine  well  corked,  and 
do  not  use  it  near  a  stove  or  light. 
Air  the  room  well  after  using  benzine. 
If  this  is  not  at  hand,  and  the  floor  is 
painted  or  varnished,  smear  the  spot 
with  lard,  then  remove  it  with  warm 
soapsuds.  The  former  method  is  pref- 
erable, but  the  latter  is  suggested  as 
an  alternative. 

After  the  rooms  are  swept  and  dusted, 
and  the  floors  are  wiped  or  polished, 
remove  the  finger  marks  from  the  doors 
and  polish  the  brasses. 

To  clean  finger  marks  from  paint, 
wipe  the  spots  first  with  a  cloth  dipped 
in  warm  water,  then  with  a  cloth  dipped 
in  whiting;  finally,  wipe  again  with  a 
clean  damp  cloth.  This  method  is 
especially  applicable  to  cleansing  white 
paint. 

Cut  pieces  of  pasteboard  to  fit  closely 


8 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


around  handles  of  drawers  and  door 
knobs,  so  that  the  brass  may  be  pol- 
ished without  soiling  or  injuring  the 
surrounding  woodwork. 

Putz  pomade  is  excellent  for  polish- 
ing solid  brasses,  but  is  too  vigorous 
for  veneers.  For  the  latter  use  elec- 
tro-silicon. 

Apply  putz  with  a  piece  of  flannel ; 
allow  it  to  stand  until  all  the  pieces 
have  been  treated,  then,  beginning 
with  the  first,  polish  with  dry  flannel, 
and  finally  with  chamois  skin.  Or, 
brasses  may  be  polished  with  electro- 
silicon,  moistened  with  lemon  juice 
and  water.  Apply  the  paste,  and  follow 
the  same  directions  as  for  the  use  of 
putz  pomade.  For  cleaning  marbles, 
use  a  paste  of  whiting  and  water,  or 
rub  vigorously  with  dry  salt. 

Whiting,  moistened  to  the  consist- 
ency of  whitewash,  is  excellent  for 
cleaning  windows.  Rub  it  over  the 
entire  surface,  and,  when  perfectly  dry, 
remove  the  powder  with  a  soft  cloth, 
and  polish  until  clear.  Spread  a  paper 
under  the  window  to  catch  any  whiting 
that  may  fall. 

For  washing  mirrors,  picture  glasses, 
clock  glasses,  etc.,  use  alcohol  and 
warm  water  in  the  proportion  of  one 
teaspoonful  of  alcohol  to  one  quart  of 
water.  Apply  with  a  soft  cloth,  and 
dry  one  surface  before  moistening  an- 
other. Soapsuds  should  not  be  used, 
as  it  leaves  the  glass  streaked  unless 
very  thoroughly  rinsed. 

Occasionally  (once  or  twice  a  year) 
the  furniture  should  be  polished.  A 
polish  bought  at  a  furniture  shop,  or 
one  of  home  manufacture,  may  be  used. 
A  home-made  polish  which  proves  it- 
self satisfactory  is  made  by  combining 
equal  parts  of  turpentine,  olive  oil,  and 
vinegar.     Apply  with  a  soft  cloth,  and 


rub  with  flannel  until  every  trace  of 
oil  is  removed.  If  not  well  polished, 
each  finger  touch  will  show. 

Of  course  it  is  not  necessary  for  the 
waitress  to  clean  the  minor  parts  of 
the  room  each  week ;  that  would  be 
impossible.  One  week  she  can  do  the 
brasses;  the  next,  the  mirrors  and  win- 
dows; the  next,  the  paint,  and  so  on. 
Occasionally  it  may  be  necessary  to 
break  in  on  this  rotation,  but  not  often. 

When  the  cleaning  is  complete  relay 
the  rugs,  replace  the  furniture,  orna- 
ments, etc. 

Care  of  Lamps. 

The  lamps  should  be  filled  every 
day,  and  the  chimneys,  shades,  and 
burners  cleaned  whenever  their  condi- 
tion demands  it. 

The  lamps  should  be  filled  nearly  to 
the  top  of  the  reservoir,  just  space 
enough  being  allowed  to  allow  foi  pos- 
sible expansion  of  the  oil.  If  too  large 
a  space  is  left,  air  may  enter,  mix  with 
gas  collected  there,  and  cause  an  ex- 
plosion. The  wick  should  be  soft  and 
rather  loosely  woven,  and  musty?//  the 
burner,  but  not  crowd  it.  If  loosely 
fitted,  it  will  admit  air  to  the  reservoir. 

The  chimneys,  if  smoked,  should  be 
wiped  with  soft  paper,  and  then  washed 
in  ammonia  and  water,  or  alcohol  and 
water  —  not  in  soap  and  water,  because 
soap  is  likely  to  make  them  cloudy. 
They  should  be  thoroughly  dried,  or 
they  will  break  when  heated.  New 
chimneys  are  made  more  durable  by 
the  following  treatment :  Place  them 
in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  and  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt  to  each  gallon  of 
water.  The  water  should  completely 
cover  the  glass.  Bring  the  water  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point,  then  remove  the 
kettle,  and  let  the  chimneys  cool  in  the 
water.     It  is  wise  to  buy  several  chim- 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


neys  at  a  time,  and  thus  have  a  stock 
against  accidents. 

The  wick  should  be  cut  only  at  the 
corners ;  then  open  the  burner,  turn 
the  wick  down  almost  level  with  the 
brass,  and  wipe  it  with  a  piece  of  old 
cloth.  Turn  the  wick  a  little  higher, 
and  wipe  it  again.  Repeat  the  process 
until  all  the  charred  portion  has  been 
removed,  then  wipe  all  parts  of  the 
burner,  and  put  the  cloth  in  the  tire. 
Oily  cloths  should  never  be  left  about 
the  house.  They  may  be  safely  kept 
in  a  tightly  covered  tin  pail. 

If  lamps  give  out  a  bad  odor  when 
lighted,  it  is  necessary  to  cleanse  the 
wick  and  burner  in  a  more  energetic 
way.  Oftentimes  it  is  best  to  replace 
the  wick  with  a  new  one.  If  there  is 
enough  of  the  old  wick  left  to  make  it 
worth  while,  place  it  with  the  burner  in 
strong  soda  water,  and  boil  them  until 
the  oil  and  dust  are  removed.  Rinse 
them  in  hot  water,  and  place  the  wick 
where  it  will  dry.  Rub  the  darkened 
portions  of  the  burner  with  sand  soap. 
and  rinse  it  again   in  hot  water.     The 


clearness  of  the  light  repays  one  en- 
tirely for  this  added  labor. 

It  is  important  also  that  the  perfora- 
tions around  the  burner  should  be  kept 
clear,  or  the  necessary  supply  of  air 
will  be  cut  off.  and  imperfect  combus- 
tion result. 

A  brass  or  nickel-plated  lamp  may 
be  polished  with  electro -silicon.  If 
the  surface  is  rough  it  is  necessary  to 
use  a  brush. 

It  may  be  well  to  say  a  word  about 
''  putting  out  '■'  a  lighted  lamp.  Xever 
blow  a  lamp  out  when  it  is  in  full  blaze, 
but  turn  it  low,  and  then  use  the  ex- 
tinguisher, or  blow  across,  not  down, 
the  chimney.  There  is  a  little  story 
which  runs  as  follows:  — 

'•  Mary  had  a  little  lamp, 

'Twas  filled  with  kerosene, 
She  blew  straight  down  the  chimney, 
And  —  vanished  from  the  scene  '.  !  " 

The  danger  in  blowing  down  on  the 
flame  lies  in  the  possibility  of  driving 
it  back  into  gas  which  may  have  col- 
lected in  the  reservoir,  thus  causing  an 
explosion. 


CLEANLINESS. 


By  Kate  Gannett  Wells. 


GeorCxE  Herbert  must  have  suf- 
fered from  periodical  attacks  of  house- 
cleaning  on  the  part  of  his  housekeeper, 
or  he  never  would  have  written  that  she 

"  Who  sweeps  a  room  as  for  Thy  laws 
Makes  that  and  the  action  fine." 

Yet,  probably,  his  study  was  not  such 
a  storeroom  of  current  literature  and 
literary  bric-a-brac  as  is  the  modern 
library,  so  that  he  was  not  puzzled  to 


know  where  to  find  things  after  they 
had  been  •'  set  right."'  Then  his  very 
thoroughness  as  a  scholar,  which  is 
shown  by  the  fact  that  Bacon  submit- 
ted his  essays  to  the  poet  before  they 
were  published,  led  him  also  to  approve 
of  conscientiousness  in  household  mat- 
ters. So  he  apostrophized  the  maid  of 
the  broom,  who  sweetened  her  labors 
with  the  consolations  of  religion  ;  and 


lO 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


we,  inheritors  of  domestic  drudgery, 
are  now  finding  that  Herbert,  all  un- 
consciously, was  a  bacteriologist  as  well 
as,  consciously,  a  poetaster  of  religious 
conceits. 

Wise  annunciator  of  eternal  truth 
was  Herbert,  for  the  getting  of  religion, 
or  loving  some  one  much,  is  the  best 
recipe  for  transforming  hard  work  into 
angelic  errands.  The  mother  will  ster- 
ilize her  baby's  milk,  and  the  wife  will 
prepare  an  appetizing  meal  for  her  hus- 
band more  gladly,  when  a  knowledge  of 
hygiene  and  affection  are  compounded 
together  within  her  brain,  than  when 
her  work  is  done  on  a  purely  technical 
basis. 

The  modern  woman  is  trying  to  es- 
tablish an  equitable  condition  of  house- 
hold affairs  by  lectures  on  sociology 
and  the  domestic  problem,  but  such 
means  do  not  begin  to  accomplish  the 
results  that  are  wrought  by  justice  and 
sympathy.  There  would  be  fewer  fam- 
ily edicts  about  "privileges,"  and  less 
quick  resentment,  if  both  mistress  and 
maid  were  looking  out  for  each  other's 
interests.  The  girl's  natural  right  to 
the  use  of  her  own  bicycle,  even  if  held 
on  the  instalment  plan,  should  not  be 
infringed  on  by  the  "  lady  housekeeper," 
as  it  is  an  interference  with  proprietary 
rights.  Some  "ladies"  forbid  the  use 
of  the  telephone  by  their  "girls," 
though  they  are  permitted  to  speak 
through  it  for  the  benefit  of  their  em- 
ployers,— _2i  very  Tantalus  method  of 
education.  Learn,  but  don't  appro- 
priate ! 

And,  then,  housekeepers,  employers, 
or  ladies  —  three  social  terms  for  about 
the  same  position  —  complain  because 
the  housework  or  cooking  is  indiffer- 
ently done,  when  the  cook's  bread 
would  be  far  lighter,  if  she  mixed  it, 


exhilarated  by  her  previous  bicycle 
ride,  or  by  the  prospect  of  seeing  her 
young  man,  who  has  just  telephoned 
her  that  he'd  call  that  evening. 

Merely  as  a  matter  of  expense,  how- 
ever, the  getting  of  religion  is  cheaper 
than  scientific  training,  and  herein 
George  Herbert  proved  himself  an 
economist  as  well  as  scientist.  If  the 
maids  do  their  work  well  because  they 
have  learned  how,  scientifically,  then 
they  are  going  to  demand  salaries  in- 
stead of  wages.  Already  the  kinder- 
gartner  nurse  receives  more  per  week 
than  the  teacher  of  an  ungraded  school 
in  the  country.  To  be  sure,  if  a  mother 
is  willing  to  forego  the  privilege  of 
taking  care  of  her  babies,  it  is  as  well 
she  pay  a  high  price,  and  remembers 
not  to  mourn  the  lack  of  family  affec- 
tion, when  those  same  babies  have 
grown  up. 

But  most  people  have  only  average 
incomes,  and  cannot  pay  for  special 
trained  experts  in  the  home;  yet  they 
can  create  them  by  compelling  thor- 
oughness through  ways  of  gentleness 
and  sympathy,  and  by  their  own  attain- 
ments in  knowing  how  to  do  things. 
Only  housekeepers  must  do  all  this  in 
the  same  way  in  which  the  poet  admon- 
ishes the  maid  to  do  her  sweeping.  Then 
will  the  "girl"  sweep  stairs  or  room,  and 
leave  no  dirt  in  the  corners,  because 
she  wishes,  at  least,  to  please  her  em- 
ployer ;  for  it  is  love  that  makes  house- 
keeping move  easily,  as  we  beat  eggs 
with  the  same  sweep  of  motion  that 
carries  the  planets  on  their  courses. 

After  all,  ideals  do  help,  in  so  far  as 
we  try  to  live  up  to  them  ;  though,  for 
years  to  come,  dust  in  corners,  and 
under  bureaus,  may  be  a  sure  sign  of 
indifference  to  high  aims  on  the  part 
of  both  mistress  and  maid.     "  Be  clean 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


II 


in  the  interests  of  health ;  wipe  up,  not 
feather-dust  off,  the  lurking  germs,"  says 
the  hygienist.  And  for  self's  sake  the 
girl  obeys,  until  in  her  haste  she  for- 
gets. Did  not  Pasteur,  in  his  excite- 
ment, drink  the  very  water  in  which 
he   had  washed  his  cherries,  in  a  dem- 


onstration lesson  before  his  class?     If 
he  can  forget  so  may  the  maid ! 

"  Be  clean !  "  sings  the  poet,  because 
it  is  God's  law  that  our  bodies  should 
be  fit  shrines  for  the  indwelling  of  His- 
Holy  Spirit,  and  our  homes  fit  temples 
for  his  worship. 


EACH  SIDE  OF  THE  WAY. 

By  Kate  M.  Post. 

{IVriiten /or  ike  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine.) 


There's  a  fine  old  house  one  side  of  the  way, 
Where  the  oak  trees,  sturdy  and  tall, 

Throw  their  shadows  dark,  defying  the  sun 
To  enter  its  stately  hall. 

There's  an  old  gray  house  just  over  the  way, 
Nestled  down  amongst  flowers  bright ; 

O'er  its  door  the  eglantine's  strong  young  arms 
Reach  upward  to  catch  the  light. 

A  solemn  footman  may  open  betimes 
The  door  of  the  gloomy  old  hall, 

But  the  old  Dutch  door,  just  over  the  way. 
Stands  open  for  one  and  all. 

And  the  carpet  is  old,  and  faded,  too, 

In  that  hall  that's  over  the  way, 
For  the  sunbeams  come  and  they  linger  there. 

As  fondly  courting  delay. 

And  they've  lingered  so  long  their  warmth  is 
felt 
In  the  household,  and  everywhere; 


And  the  heart-sore  and  weary,  grave  and  gay, 
All  come  and  are  welcomed  there. 

But  those  who  are  welcomed  the  other  side 
.Are  the  wearers  of  garments  fine. 

Who  can  boast  that  straight  from  the  Norman 
kings 
They  trace  their  family  line. 

But  the  angels  who  wander  down  the  way 
Have  seldom  these  passports  to  show. 

So  they  and  the  sunshine  are  wont,  forsooth. 
To  enter  that  Dutch  door  low. 

Oh  I  the  stately  house  that's  over  the  way 
Has  its  statues  and  pictures  rare, 

But  never  a  welcome  for  God's  own  sun. 
Nor  his  angels  unaware. 

But  the  angels'  blessing  forever  rests 
On  the  home  with  the  low  Dutch  door. 

And  the  spirit  of  comfort  lingers  there 
Like  the  sunshine  on  the  floor. 


12 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


A  HOME  WEDDING  IN  JUNE. 

By  Belle  Spaulding. 


'*  No,  I  absolutely  refuse  to  have  a 
church  wedding!  Kate  had  her  way, 
with  pomp,  publicity,  and  presents  to 
her  heart's  content.  I  do  not  like  it, 
and  am  not  willing  to  go  through  all 
the  fatigue  of  something  I  do  not 
approve  of,  just  for  the  sake  of  being 
in  the  fashion." 

So  spake  the  bride-elect,  the  queen 
of  the  hour.  "  What  will  people  think  ?" 
pleaded  the  conventional  mamma.  "It 
will  seem  that  we  are  very  partial  when 
they  see  you  so  simply  dressed  and 
married  in  such  a  quiet  way  at  home ; 
and  they  will  recall  Kate's  brilliant 
wedding  and  reception." 

"  Well,  mamma,"  responded  the  de- 
termined little  maiden,  "  Kate  was 
allowed  to  have  her  wish,  and  now  let 
me  have  mine."  That  ended  the  dis- 
cussion, and  she  was  permitted  to  dis- 
close her  ideas  to  a  group  of  listeners, 
that  they  might  set  about  their  accom- 
plishment. 

"  Firstly,  as  to  flowers,"  said  the 
expectant  bride,  flushing  with  enthu- 
siasm, as  she  found  she  had  gained 
her  point.  "  Ralph  and  I  have  talked 
a  great  deal  about  our  future,  and  we 
are  determined  that  we  will  live  our  own 
lives  and  not  be  bound  by  convention- 
alities. Oh !  I  don't  mean  we  are 
going  to  retire  from  the  world  and  live 
selfishly  (though,  I  confess,  I  think  I 
would  like  to  go  away  with  Raph  to 
some  "  desert  isle  "  and  live  a  year,  at 
least);  but  we  wish  to  live  simple, 
earnest  lives  and  not  waste  our  forces 
striving  to  do  just  as  somebody  else 
does.    We  wish  so  to  order  our  lives  that 


we  may  not  be  merely  the  reflection  of 
others ;  and,  first  of  all,  we  shall  insist 
upon  simplicity  in  all  our  appointments. 
No,  things  need  not  be  inartistic  to  be 
simple.  The  highest  art  attains  true 
simplicity.  There  is  an  affectation  of 
it ;  that  is  sheer  vulgarity.  So  to  begin 
with  the  wedding  decorations.  I  am 
so  glad  we  are  to  be  married  in  June. 
I  do  so  love  the  wild  flowers.  And 
now,  let  me  tell  you,  girls,  not  one  hot- 
house blossom  for  me  !  —  but  laurel. 
Oh,  my  beloved  mountain  laurel !  make 
me  a  bower  of  it  in  the  bow-window. 
Not  too  much  of  it,  you  know,  but  the 
stately  spreading  branches,  with  their 
clusters  of  dainty,  wax-like  blossoms, 
can  be  arranged  about  the  windows  ; 
and  those  large  pottery  jars  can  be 
filled  with  more  of  the  branches  and 
placed  on  either  side.  It  will  make  a 
bewitching  background,  and  be  such  a 
pretty  compliment  to  Ralph,  for  laurel 
means  fame,  you  know,  and  his  book 
will  be  out  by  that  time.  I  know  he 
will  like  the  laurel.  And  then,  daisies, 
daisies,  daisies  for  me  !  Daisies  mean 
constancy,  you  know.  I  want  some 
daisy  bells  in  my  bower.  It  is  easy 
enough  to  make  them.  Just  make  the 
forms  with  wire  and  soft  moss,  and 
stick  them  full  of  daisies.  To  be  sure, 
each  poor  little  blossom  must  be 
stabbed  with  a  little  stick  (a  toothpick 
is  the  best  thing),  for  the  stems  are 
not  strong  enough  to  go  into  the  moss  ; 
but  I  am  sure  they  will  be  willing  to 
serve  me  for  my  wedding  bells,  even 
at  such  a  price,  for  I  love  them  so. 
And    all    the    gardens  will    be   full    of 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


13 


roses;  and  roses  we  will  have  in  abun- 
dance, for  they  mean  love." 

"  Aren't  you  almost  ready  to  say 
something  of  the  table,  Alice  ? "  sighed 
the  patient  mother.  "The  girls  can  do 
your  bidding  about  the  decorations, 
but  I  shall  have  to  engineer  the  sim- 
plicity of  the  feast,  I  suppose.  I  must 
confess  I  think  it  far  less  trouble  to 
give  carte  blanche  to  a  florist  and 
caterer." 

"Oh,  I  am  coming  to  that  now, 
mamma  dear ! "  said  Alice,  clapping 
her  hands  gleefully,  for  the  joy  that 
was  in  her,  at  having  her  own  ideas, 
hitherto  somewhat  ignored,  listened  to 
with  a  show  of  respect.  Then  a 
shadow  passed  over  her  face,  and  she 
faltered,  "  What  a  bother  that  there 
must  always  be  something  to  eat !  " 

At  this  the  mother  threw  up  her 
hands  in  despair.  "  What  a  child  you 
are !  Where  you  got  such  ideas  I 
cannot  imagine.  Your  Uncle  and  Aunt 
Foster  are  coming  from  the  city,  and 
they  will  wish  to  stay  and  talk,  after 
you  are  gone,  and  —  " 

"  Oh,  yes,  mamma,  I  know  it  is  in- 
evitable ;  we  must  eat :  but  flowers 
and  such  dainty  things  are  so  much 
nicer  to  talk  about !  Let  us  use  the 
plain  linen  tablecloth,  with  the  drawn 
work  above  the  hem,  and  the  centre- 
piece embroidered  with  lilies, — the 
lilies  mean  purity, —  and  I  would  pre- 
fer your  plain  white  china,  and  the 
glass  pieces  ;  I  do  not  care  very  much 
for  silver  pieces  for  the  table.  In  the 
centre,  we  will  have  a  large  jar  of 
the  choicest  laurel  blossoms  we  can 
find,  and  at  each  corner  a  glass  bowl 
of  gorgeous  roses,  and  a  wreath  of 
daisies,  or,  as  we  girls  used  to  call 
them,  daisy  chains,  running  from  each 
corner    to    the    chandelier,    and,     de- 


pending   therefrom,  one  of    the   daisy 
bells." 

"  How  lovely  !  "  exclaimed  the  girls. 

"  Now,  mamma,  I  am  ready  to  talk 
of  the  cakes  and  things ;  and,  as  I  said, 
I  must  have  a  jar  of  laurel  in  the  centre 
of  the  table,  and  each  side  of  it,  length- 
wise of  the  table,  we  will  have  those 
lovely  old  fruitstands  of  grandmamma 
piled  with  strawberries.  They  shall 
be  laid  on  a  bed  of  their  own  leaves, 
with  some  of  the  trailing  vines  falling 
over  the  edge  of  the  dishes.  Each 
side  of  the  centre,  the  other  way  of  the 
table,  but  nearer  the  edge,  we  will  have 
the  bride's  and  groom's  cakes.  I  will 
have  a  wreath  of  white  roses  around 
mine,  and  the  glossy  laurel  leaves 
around  Ralph's. 

"In  the  centre,  at  one  end  of  the 
table,  we  will  have  a  dish  of  Benares 
salad.  Don't  you  remember  the  Feb- 
ruary-March issue  of  the  Cooking- 
School  Magazine  contained  the  rec- 
ipe, and  it  is  delicious  ?  If  we  cannot 
get  good  celery  for  it,  some  nice  white 
cabbage,  with  celery  salt,  makes  a  per- 
fect substitute.  We  will  serve  it  in  the 
cabbage  shell ;  just  leave  the  outside 
leaves  on  the  stalk,  and  set  it  on  the 
platter;  put  the  salad  into  it,  and  sur- 
round the  whole  with  the  feathery  leaves 
of  carrots.  At  the  opposite  end  centre 
we  will  have  a  mould  of  boned  chicken, 
served  on  a  bed  of  parsley.  I  have  a 
new  way  to  make  boned  chicken.  Cut 
a  tender  chicken  as  if  for  stewing,  put 
it  into  a  glass  jar,  add  one  clove,  cover 
tightly,  put  it  into  another  dish  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  boil  six  hours,  then  take 
from  the  can,  or  jar,  shake  the  meat 
from  the  bones,  remove  the  skin,  and 
any  objectionable  bits,  add  a  teaspoon 
of  salt,  a  teaspoon  of  onion  juice,  and 
a  squeeze  of  lemon  ;  press  the  chicken 


14 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


—  not  too  hard  —  into  a  mould,  and 
pour  the  juice  over  it ;  set  away  to 
harden.  It  is  very  delicate,  and  cuts 
into  nice  slices  with  a  thin  sharp 
knife. 

"  On  each  side  of  these  chicken  and 
salad  dishes  —  not  in  line,  but  a  little 
farther  from  the  edge  of  the  table  — 
we  will  have  plates  of  rolls  and  sand- 
wiches,—  one  plate  of  small  oyster 
rolls,  and  a  plate  of  lettuce  sandwiches. 
Cut  the  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  butter  it  slightly,  then  lay  the 
pieces  together,  and  cut  them  into 
oblong  diamond  shapes.  Then  open, 
and  lay  on  the  lower  piece  a  layer  of 
delicate  leaves  from  the  centre  of  the 
lettuce,  allowing  the  curling  edges  to 
extend  just  beyond  the  bread,  dress 
the  lettuce  with  some  stiff  mayonnaise 
dressing,  strew  a  little  shredded  lettuce 
over  this,  then  place  the  other  piece  of 
bread  above,  and  press  gently  together. 
When  they  are  all  made,  arrange  them 
in  four  even  piles,  on  a  bed  of  the  let- 
tuce ;  opposite  these,  at  the  other  end, 
set  a  plate  of  the  rolls,  which  may  be 
laid  on  a  linen  doily,  and  a  plate  of  fruit 
sandwiches.  Cut  the  bread  a  little 
thinner  for  these,  spread  very  delicately 
with  butter,  fit  the  slices  together,  and 
cut  in  heart  shapes,  then  open,  and 
sprinkle  chopped  nuts  over  one  slice, 
and  grated  cheese  over  the  other. 
Serve  these  in  nice  even  piles,  on  a 
bed  of  nasturtium  leaves.  Cover  all 
the  sandwiches,  as  soon  as  made, 
with  a  napkin  that  has  been  wrung 
out  in  cold  water,  and  let  them  stand 
until  ready  to  serve ;  it  will  keep  them 
fresh.  The  ices  and  creams  we  will 
have  in  rose  and  lily  shapes.  Won't 
they  be  charming  t  When  the  chicken 
and  salad  dishes  are  removed  the  ice- 
cream platters  can  replace  them,  filled 
with  roses  in  all  colors,  except  white ; 


one  platter  may  be  filled  with  white 
lilies,  made  from  the  white  ices. 

*'  Plates  of  cake  can  have  place 
either  side  of  the  strawberries,  not  on 
line  with  them,  but  nearer  the  centre. 
At  the  other  sides  arrange  plates  of 
fancy  cakes,  hearts  and  rounds  and 
macaroons  and  nut  sticks.  Little 
dishes  of  salted  nuts  and  candies  can 
find  place  on  either  side  of  the  large 
cakes,  and  nearly  in  line  with  them, 
and  a  dish  of  olives  just  beyond  the 
salad  and  chicken  platters,  nearer  the 
centre.  Jane  can  serve  the  pineapple 
frappe  in  that  corner  by  the  door,  and 
Maud  can  put  the  round  tea-table  for 
the  iced  tea  in  the  alcove,  and  don't 
forget  to  put  on  a  big  bowl  of  ice  and 
the  shaker,  for  a  tea  shake  is  the  most 
refreshing  drink  for  a  warm  day.     And, 

0  girls  !  I  do  want  some  daisy  chains 
turned  about  the  stair  rails  in  the  front 
hall.  I  almost  forgot  them,  —  if  it 
won't  be  too  much  trouble." 

The  girls  all  assured  her  that  to 
entwine  the  staircase  with  daisy  chains 
would  be  the  crowning  joy  of  their 
present  existence. 

"  And  remember,"  continued  Alice, 
"  I  want  everybody  to  be  as  gay  as  pos- 
sible. A  wedding  that  is  entered  into 
in  the  right  spirit  is  solemn  enough 
anyway." 

As  she  paused  to  take  breath  one  of 
the  girls  laughingly  exclaimed  :  "  Why, 
Alice,  you  talk  like  an  old  housekeeper. 

1  thought  you  knew  nothing  about  such 
things ;  I  believe  you  must  have  lain 
awake  nights  to  plan  all  this." 

"  Why,  of  course  I  have,"  replied 
Alice  quickly;  "plans  do  not  work 
themselves  out ;  and,  if  we  do  not  all 
wish  to  do  just  what  somebody  else 
does,  and  desire  to  have  some  ideas  of 
our  own,  we  must  think.  It  is  thought^ 
really^  that  makes  the  world  go  round." 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


15 


PLEASURE  IN  EVERYTHING. 

By  Julia  Davis  Chandler. 


How  much  pleasure  one  can  get 
from  the  simplest  every- day  things; 
for  instance,  from  a  bountifully  filled 
market  basket!  It  suggests  not  only 
good  meals  to  come,  but  is  a  source  of 
real  aesthetic  enjoyment.  How  varied 
the  shapes,  how  gorgeous  the  colors, 
in  purple  egg-plant  and  crimson  cab- 
bage, pale-green  cabbage,  too,  and  let- 
tuce, and  dark-green  cucumbers,  scarlet 
tomatoes,  and  rosy  radishes,  yellow 
squashes  and  wax  beans,  and  orange 
carrots,  aromatic  and  feathery  little 
bunches,  for  soup  flavoring,  of  herbs 
and  parsley,  with  a  gay  chili  tied  in, 
which  make  a  corsage  bouquet  for  the 
creamy-bosomed  cauliflower.  And  in 
peaches,  pears,  grapes,  oranges  and  lem- 
ons, —  what  could  be  more  beautiful  1 
Why,  even  eggs  are  beautiful,  —  the 
deep,  rich  coffee-colored  ones,  or  the 
white,  reminding  one  of  Titian's  won- 
derful painting  of  a  basket,  by  the  steps 
of  the  temple.  No  wonder  that  artists 
love  to  paint  all  these,  as  well  as  flow- 
ers or  the  plumage  of  birds. 

How  often,  too,  they  introduce  a 
copper  kettle,  to  which  they  are  wel- 
come, for  who  cares  to  use  copper 
kettles  now,  except  the  chef  who  can 
control  enough  service  to  keep  them 
polished  ?  'Tis  said,  on  shipboard,  the 
inspecting  officer  demands  such  perfect 
work  that  a  cambric  handkerchief  can 
be  applied  and  show  no  suspicion  of 
stain. 

Not  only  is  the  marketing  a  pleasure, 
but  it  is  to  be  faithfully  served  each 
day,  and  your  tastes  remembered  and 
provided  for,  whether  it  be  at  the  stalls 
of  a  big  market -house  or  the  wagon 
that  comes  to  your  door. 


In  a  Western  city  there  was  a  pleas- 
ant little  man  who  would  climb,  to  show 
all  his  stock,  in  and  out  of  his  big  two- 
horse  van,  and  up  on  the  wheels  to  the 
frieze-like  row  of  baskets  hung  along 
the  sides,  above  the  rolled-up  curtains. 
The  name  on  his  wagon  was  G.  Hop- 
per, and  we  used  to  speak  of  him  as 
our  grasshopper. 

In  a  Philadelphia  market  there  is  a 
big  man,  with  but  one  eye;  and,  not 
knowing  his  name,  we  say :  "  Aren't 
these  fine  berries  ?  We  bought  them 
of  Polyphemus." 

Then  there  is  another,  with  a  most 
intelligent  horse,  who  drives  from  house 
to  house  daily.  His  horse  knows  the 
word  "apple"  aawell  as  a  person  does, 
even  casually  used  in  a  sentence,  and 
goes  through  pretty  tricks  to  get  one. 

There  is  a  nice  collie  dog,  who  knows 
this  wagon,  and  the  man's  voice,  and 
that  his  mistress  always  buys  of  him, 
and  that,  when  she  does,  he,  the  collie, 
can  go  for  a  walk  down  to  the  rear 
street;  so  he  barks  loudly  as  soon  as 
he  recognizes  the  familiar  call,  though 
all  day  men  with  wagons  or  push-carts 
go  by  there,  calling  the  same  vegeta- 
bles. For  these  he  never  seems  to  lift 
an  ear. 

Into  another  part  of  the  city  there, 
comes  a  little  cart,  drawn  by  a  donkey, 
like  an  English  "coster,"  and  guarded 
by  a  tiny  dog,  which  sometimes  perches 
on  the  donkey's  back.  This  wagon 
contains  only  peanuts,  but  it  is  eagerly 
awaited  by  children  on  certain  even- 
ings ;  it  is  considered  much  more  fun 
to  buy  peanuts,  and  run,  perhaps,  a 
square  or  so  for  them,  than  to  have 
some  sent  up  by  the  grocer. 


i6 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


HOME-MADE  TOILET  SOAPS. 

By  Caroline  D.  Jordan. 


It  is  almost  impossible  to  make  a 
perfect  chemical  combination  of  fat 
and  potash  or  soda  when  dealing  with 
small  quantities.  The  harshness  and 
irritating  qualities  of  household  soaps 
are  due  to  this  fact.  There  is  usually 
a  considerable  portion  of  unaltered 
fat,  and  a  corresponding  amount  of 
unneutralized  caustic  soda.  This  may 
be  remedied  by  the  addition  of  cocoa- 
nut  oil,  which  promotes  the  soap-mak- 
ing action,  or  "saponification,''  and 
furnishes  a  finer  product.  A  propor- 
tion of  from  one-fifth  to  one-third  is 
recommended.  After  being  poured  into 
pans  or  moulds  the  soap  should  remain 
covered  with  towels,  in  a  warm  room, 
for  twenty-four  hours,  thus  facilitating 
the  completeness  of  the  chemical  com- 
bination. 

Genuine  toilet  soaps  are,  or  at  least 
ought  to  be,  prepared  from  a  superior 
quality  of  fat  or  oil.  They  are  usually 
made  on  a  large  scale  by  the  "  cooked 
process,"  which  may  be  imitated  on  a 
small  scale,  as  follows :  Boil  together, 
in  a  large  vessel,  one  pound  caustic 
soda  (commonly  called  "  potash  ")  with 
twenty  times  its  weight  of  water  and 
five  times  its  weight  of  clean  fat  (beef 
or  lamb  fat  being  an  excellent  form  for 
the  purpose),  for  some  hours,  until  a 
thick  mass  is  formed  which  will  draw 
out  into  threads.  By  adding  about  one- 
half  cup  of  common  salt  the  soap  sepa- 
rates, rising  to  the  top.  Let  it  remain 
until  cold,  when  the  soap  is  easily  re- 
moved. It  is  still  further  improved  and 
purified  by  remelting  with  a  little  water, 
an  attractive  white  soap  resulting. 

Perfuming  may  be  accomplished  at 


the  melting-stage  by  the  addition  of  a 
few  drops  of  essential  oil.  Oil  or  mir- 
bane  (artificial  almond  oil)  is  the 
cheapest;  but  the  perfumes  of  real 
almond  oil,  citronella,  cloves,  or  lav- 
ender are  more  agreeable. 

If  color  is  desired,  a  very  little  potas- 
sium bichromate  dissolved  in  the  lye  will 
give  a  green  color.  Brown  may  be  ob- 
tained by  dissolving  a  little  burnt  sugar, 
and  adding  it  to  the  fat  before  mixing. 

Blank  soaps  are  used  as  the  basis 
of  many  toilet  preparations,  and  may 
be  purchased  from  soap  manufacturers 
at  a  small  cost.  This  can  be  remelted 
and  scented.  In  expensive  toilet  soaps 
perfumes  are  added  to  the  blank  soap, 
which  is  shaved  or  powdered,  then 
mixed  and  pressed  while  cold  by  ma- 
chinery. 

Castile  soap  was  originally  made 
from  the  poorer  qualities  of  olive  oil 
with  caustic  soda. 

Considerable  quantities  of  oil  of 
sesame  are  used  in  conjunction  with 
olive  oil  in  making  this  soap.  Mix- 
tures of  lard  with  sweet  almond  oil  or 
cottonseed  or  peanut  oils  are  commonly 
used  in  the  production  of  the  mod- 
ern ''  castile  "  soaps.  A  good  castile 
soap  is  made  with  four  pounds  of  sweet 
almond  oil,  mixed  with  two  pounds 
of  caustic-soda  lye,  and  stirred  until 
of  the  consistence  of  thick  paste.  It 
should  then  be  poured  into  moulds, 
covered  with  towels,  and  kept  in  a 
warm  room  for  twenty-four  hours. 

It  is  best  to  use  oil  slightly  rancid, 
or,  if  perfectly  sweet,  add  to  it  about 
ten  per  cent,  of  oil  that  has  become 
rancid. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


17 


SELECTED  VERSE* 


OUT    IN    THE    FIELDS. 

The  little  cares  that  fretted  me  — 

I  lost  them  yesterday, 
Among  the  fields,  above  the  sea. 

Among  the  winds  at  play, 
Among  the  lowing  of  the  herds, 

The  rustling  of  the  trees, 
Among  the  singing  of  the  birds. 

The  humming  of  the  bees. 

The  foolish  fears  of  what  might  pass  — 

I  cast  them  all  away 
Among  the  clover-scented  grass. 

Among  the  new-mown  hay, 
Among  the  hushing  of  the  corn. 

Where  drowsy  poppies  nod, 
Where  ill  thoughts  die  and  good  are  born  — 

Out  in  the  fields  with  God ! 

—St.  PatcVs. 


TWILIGHT. 


Rhododendrons  are  in  blossom. 

The  azaleas  are  in  bloom. 
And  all  the  air  is  fragrant 

With  the  scented  breath  of  June. 

The  birds  soft  sleepy  twitter. 
Even  hop-toads  on  the  ground 

Make  you  happy  in  the  twilight 

When  the  night  comes  softly  down. 

Then  the  shadows,  creeping,  creeping, 

Bring  you  to  a  fairer  land. 
And  the  lights  through  treetops  shining 

Show  the  mystic  elfin  band. 

Shadow  leaves  are  gloaming  fairies. 
Silent,  resting  on  the  ground. 

And  you're  happy  in  the  twilight. 
When  the  night  comes  softly  down. 

—  Margaret  Hepburn  Pottorff. 


Beneath  the  pine's  protecting  shade, 

Along  the  borders  of  the  stream, 
Sun-brightened  in  the  open  glade, 

I  see  the  mountain  laurel  gleam, 
Each  dainty  cup  a  chalice  lent 

To  hold  the  fairies'  draught  of  dew, 
The  green  of  ocean  in  it  blent 

With  roseate  dawn's  elusive  hue. 

—  Lalia  Mitchell. 


MY    FATHER  S    FIELD. 

A  MAIDEN  Stood  where  the  fields  were  ripe. 
And  gathered  the  golden  wheat; 

Gaily  she  sang  as  she  bound  her  sheaves, 
And  laid  them  about  her  feet. 

One  marked  her  there  as  she  passed  her  by. 
Alone  with  her  hard-earned  spoil. 

And  spoke  of  rest,  for  the  sun  was  high, 
And  the  reaper  spent  with  toil. 

But  the  maiden  smiled,  as  her  glad  voice  said 

"  Nay,  lady,  I  may  not  yield. 
The  work  is  great,  but  the  work  is  sweet, 

I  toil  in  my  Father's  field." 

*  *  *  * 

Gleaners  of  Christ,  in  your  lonely  toil, 

When  weary,  and  fain  to  yield, 
Take  comfort  here,  though  the  work  is  great, 

"  Ye  toil  in  your  Father's  field." 

And  the  Father's  house  lies  over  the  hill. 
Where  the  sun  of  life  goes  down  ; 

There  shall  ye  rest,  and  the  Father's  smile 
Forever  your  work  shall  crown. 

—  E.  G.  Stuart. 


O  CHILDHOOD,  life's  perpetual  June  ! 
Your  path  with  buds  and  fragrance  strewn, 
Down  which  your  feet  beat  happy  tune ! 

Your  chubby  hands  are  full  of  flowers ; 
Your  eyes,  of  sunshine  and  of  showers, — 
Darlings  of  nature's  heart  and  ours  1 

With  you  we  toss  the  fragrant  hay, 
Or  pluck  wild  roses  from  the  spray  ; 
Your  cheeks  more  rosy  fair  than  ihey. 

Such  charm  has  nature  round  you  flung, 
Yot(.  know  '*  the  song  the  sirens  sung," 
That  keeps  our  hearts  forever  young, — 

That  lures  us  to  forget  our  years, 
Forget  our  burdens  and  our  fears. 
O,  blessed  is  the  ear  that  hears ! 

The  innocence  that  is  so  wnse ; 

The  trust  that  dreams  of  no  disguise ; 

The  simple  faith  in  mysteries, — 

All  these  shall  in  the  world  survive, 
While  God  to  us  doth  children  give. 
To  keep  the  child  in  us  alive. 

—  Saimiel  Longfelloiv. 


i8 


THE  BOSTOy  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


ITbe   Boston  Coo[?ing=Scbool 
Corporatiotu 

Established  1879.  Incorporated  1882. 

School:  372  Boylston  Street. 


BOAlRjy  OF  MANAGERS,  1900. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL         -        -        -     President. 
Mrs.  STEPHEN  D.    BENNETT,   Vice-President. 


mx:ecutive  committee. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL, 

Miss  ELLEN  M.  CHANDLER. 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL, 
Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY, 

Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS, 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING, 
Mrs.  WINSLOW  WARREN, 
Miss  MINNA   TRAIN, 

Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS. 
Mrs.  G.  E.  NILES,  Treasurer. 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary. 
Principal,   Miss  FANNIE  MERRITT  FARMER. 
Miss  CHARLOTTE  JAMES  WILLS. 


Assistants, 


Miss  MARIA  W.  HOWARD. 


TTbe  Boston   CooMn^^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of  Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics. 

PUBLISHED   BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL     JOURNAL     OF     THE     BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL   CORPORATION. 

Publication  Office : 
372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

JANET  Mckenzie  hill     -        -        -        Editor. 


BENJ.  M.  HILL, 
R.  B.  HILL, 


General  Manager. 
Business  Manager. 


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"\1 /"ITH  this  issue  the  Boston  Cook- 
'  ^  ixG-ScHOOL  Magazine  begins  its 
fifth  volume.  In  the  conduct  of  the 
Magazine  in  the  past  undoubtedly  mis- 
takes have  occurred,  for  these  are  un- 
avoidable; and  yet  a  general  though 
gradual  improvement,  we  trust,  has 
been  made  bo,th  in  the  quality  and  in 
the  character  of  the  publication.  Cer- 
tainly our  own  gain  in  point  of  exper- 
ience, as  well  as  in  that  of  encourage- 
ment, has  not  been  inconsiderable. 

The  present  is  our  maximum  edition. 
Still,  we  propose  not  to  remain  sta- 
tionary, even  if  this  were  possible,  but 
to  move  forward,  ever  increasing  our 
efforts  to  produce  an  up-to-date  and 
progressive  journal  for  housekeepers. 

Each  number  of  the  Magazine  con- 
tains valuable  information  —  matter  not 
to  be  found  elsewhere  —  that  is  worthy 
of  preservation.  For  this  reason,  from 
this  issue  —  viz.,  that  of  June  and  July, 
1900  —  means  have  been  provided  to 
furnish  all  who  may  desire  with  com- 
plete volumes.  That  is,  in  the  future, 
any  new  subscriber  will  be  able  to  be- 
gin her  subscription  with  the  first  num- 
ber of  a  new  volume,  or  the  magazine 
year.  To  a  limited  extent,  also,  from 
this  date,  we, hope  to  be  able  to  mail 
back  numbers  to  all  inquirers. 

Manifestly  the  interest  in  matters 
pertaining  to  domestic  economics  is 
increasing  rapidly.  As  it  is  said, ''  the 
world  is  already  filled  with  workers ; 
there  is  no  place  for  untried  hands." 
Is  not  the  present  a  most  favorable 
time  to  become  a  subscriber  to  the 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine  ? 


pvR.  GEORGE  F.  SHRADY,  editor 
*-^  of  the  Medical  Record,  declares 
over-pressure  the  bane  of  modern  edu- 
cation.    He  writes  :  — 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


The  health  of  the  young  is  a  matter  of 
vital  importance  to  a  nation.  As  with  indi- 
viduals, so  it  is  with  races  in  the  struggle  for 
predominance :  the  weakest  will  go  to  the 
wall.  The  sole  aim  of  modern  education 
would  seem  to  consist  in  the  attempt  to  de- 
velop the  mind  at  the  expense  of  the  body. 
The  necessity  of  exercise  and  fresh  air,  as  a 
part  of  a  child's  training,  is  strangely  over- 
looked. Mental  and  physical  education  should 
go  hand-in-hand.  Healthy  environment,  plen- 
tiful and  nutritious  food,  are  essential,  that  the 
human  product  may  grow  up  hardy  and  robust, 
well  equipped  for  the  battle  of  life. 

We  often  feel  that  man  or  woman 
is  unqualified  to  teach  who  has  not 
come  in  direct  contact  with  child  na- 
ture as  a  parent.  Yet  nine  out  of  ten 
of  our  teachers  are  unsophisticated 
young  women,  who  enter  upon  the 
difficult  task  of  teaching  as  a  means  to 
an  end.  Of  late,  in  the  training  of 
teachers,  some  effort  is  made  to  give 
meagre  instruction  in  the  nature  of 
child  life  ;  but  the  result  is  deplorable 
still.  We  have  the  fads  and  frills  of  a 
wholesome  educational  system,  without 
the  substance.  For  instance,  nothing 
can  be  more  desirable  than  to  cultivate 
in  childhood  a  correct  form  of  speech, 
and  facility  in  expression ;  but  what 
sense  in  requiring  a  child  of  ten  or 
twelve  years  to  write  a  composition  on 
virtue  or  heroism,  subjects  about  which 
he  has,  and  can  have,  no  tangible  ideas  ? 
If  a  boy  have  a  pet  dog,  we  venture  to 
say  he  can  tell  something  about  that 
animal. 

We  are  of  the  opinion  that  acquaint- 
ance, knowledge,  thought,  must  precede 
language,  either  oral  or  written.  First 
make  the  child  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  his  object,  and  this  knowledge 
expression  naturally  follows.  And  this 
is  true  from  the  kindergarten  to  the 
college.  Who  is  prepared  to  take  sci- 
entific data  from  an  amateur,  or  receive 


instruction  in  theology  from  a  stripling? 
There  are  subjects  in  respect  to  which 
thoughts,  to  be  of  verity  or  value,  must 
be  the  result  of  deep  study  and  re- 
search, as  well  as  of  large  experience. 

When  Socrates  was  in  prison,  he 
was  asked  why  he,  who  had  never 
before  written  a  line  of  poetry,  was 
putting  ^sop  into  verse,  and  compos- 
ing a  hymn  in  honor  of  Apollo.  The 
sage  replied  that  it  was  to  satisfy  a 
scruple,  and  in  obedience  to  a  dream, 
by  which  he  often  had  intimation  that 
he  should  "  make  music."  So  he  says  : 
"  I  •  first  made  a  hymn  in  honor  of 
the  god  of  the  festival,  and  then,  con- 
sidering that  a  poet,  if  he  really  was 
to  be  a  poet,  or  maker,  should  not 
only  put  words  together,  but  make 
stories,  and,  as  I  had  no  invention,  I 
took  some  fables  of  ^sop,  which  I 
had  ready  at  hand,  and  knew,  and 
turned  them  into  verse."  So  the  child, 
especially  he  who  has  little  invention, 
instead  of  nagging  himself,  and  those 
about  him,  in  the  vain  attempt  to  do 
the  impossible,  should  be  taught  to  take 
the  objects  that  are  ready  at  hand,  and 
about  which  he  knoivs,  and  in  connec- 
tion with  these  turn  his  simple  expres- 
sions. 

Certainly,  "  to  insure  the  physical 
and  mental  well  -  being  of  the  rising 
generation  considerable  modifications 
of  our  existing  system  of  education 
will  be  necessary." 


"  New  occasions  teach  new  duties  ; 
Time  makes  ancient  good  uncouth.*' 

T^IME  was  when  it  was  thought  more 
^  desirable  to  speak  well  than  to  do 
well.  To  become  a  minister  or  a 
lawyer  —  that  is,  to  influence  by  fine 
words  —  was  the  goal  set  before  every 
ambitious  pupil.     The  result  was  many 


20 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


a  youth  entered  upon  a  life  work  for 
which  he  was  entirely  unfitted.  To  be 
sure,  the  power  of  expression  is  a 
noble  gift ;  but  few  are  thus  endowed, 
fewer  still  have  noteworthy  ideas  to 
express. 

Once  young  women  were  taught,  as 
the  one  thing  needful,  music,  drawing, 
or  letters,  though  it  was  manifest  a 
majority  of  women  could  not  earn  a 
living  or  become  very  useful  by  the 
cultivation  of  a  fine  art,  however  agree- 
able as  an  accomplishment  that  might 
be. 

To-day  we  are  beginning  to  realize 
that  thought  goes  before  expression, 
and  something  interesting  and  tangible 
to  think  about  precedes  both,  while 
mere  speculative  philosophy  never  ap- 
peals to  the  masses.  Hence  the  power 
and  skill  attained  by  actual  doing,  or 
experience,  mark  the  educational  meth- 
ods of  the  day. 

In  training  youth  the  processes  are 
scientific ;  practicability  is  the  test 
of  value.  Even  the  idea  of  beauty  is 
associated  with  utility.  Thus,  either 
the  conditions  of  life  have  changed,  or 
the  events  of  the  age  are  insipid,  and 
fail  to  call  forth  inspired  expression  ; 
for  where  are  our  great  poets  ?  What 
fine  poetry  of  recent  production  can  be 
pointed  out.'^ 

Of  scientific  achievement  and  useful 
invention  the  age  is  prolific;  and  yet  it 
would  seem  that  hitherto  sufficient  at- 
tention has  not  been  given  to  domestic 
science.  The  subject  is  far-reaching  ; 
it  concerns  the  immediate  and  vital  in- 
terests of  social  life.  At  present  date, 
chiefiy  in  the  West  and  South,  courses 
in  domestic  science  have  been  intro- 
duced into  many  or  leading  institu- 
tions. Now  sanitation,  the  chemistry 
of  foods,  physiology,  and  hygiene  are 


practical  subjects,  some  knowledge  of 
which  is  essential  to  well-being  in  life ; 
and  still  the  supply  of  trained  helpers 
in  the  home  is  not  equal  by  far  to 
the  demand.  Why  should  not  a  course 
in  domestic  economics  be  made  a  part, 
at  least,  of  every  young  woman's  edu- 
cation ? 


I  tell  you,  a  woman'ull  make  your 
porridge  every  day  for  twenty  years, 
and  never  think  of  measuring  the  pro- 
portion between  the  meal  and  the  milk 

—  a  little  more  or  less,  she'll  think, 
doesn't  signify ;  the  porridge  will  be 
awk'ard  now  and  then ;  if  it's  wrong, 
it's  summat  in  the  meal,  or  it's  summat 
in  the  milk,  or  it's  summat  in  the  water. 

—  George  Eliot. 


The  best  men,  and  those  most  be- 
loved by  the  gods,  are  those  who  in 
agriculture  perform  their  agricultural 
duties  well ;  those  who  in  medicine 
perform  their  medical  duties  well;  those 
who  in  political  offices  perform  their 
public  duties  well :  but  he  who  does 
nothing  well  is  neither  useful  for  any 
purpose,  nor  acceptable  to  the  gods. — 
Socrates. 


Choose  Sin,  by  troops  she  shall  beside  thee 

stand ; 
Smooth  is  the  track,  her  mansion  is  at  hand : 
Where  Virtue  dwells  the  gods  have  placed  be- 
fore 
The  dropping  sweat  that  springs  from  every 

pore; 
And  ere  the  foot  can  reach  her  high  abode, 
Long,  rugged,  steep  th'  ascent,  and  rough  the 

road ; 
The  ridge  once  gain'd,  the  path  so  hard  of  late 
Runs  easy  on,  and  level  to  the  gate.  —  Elton. 

A  sentiment   to  which    Epicharmus 
gives  his  testimony  in  this  verse  :  — 
"The  gods  for  labor  sell  us  all  good  things." 


After=  Breakfast  Chat, 


By  Janet  M.  Hill. 

I  know  very  well  I  shouldn't  like  her  to  cook  my  victual.  I  called  in  one  day  when  she 
was  dishin'  up  dinner,  and  I  could  see  the  potatoes  was  as  watery  as  watery.  I  like  my  potatoes 
mealy;  I  don't  see  as  anybody  'ull  go  to  heaven  the  sooner  for  not  digestin'  their  dinner,  pro- 
vidin'  they  don't  die  sooner. —  George  Eliot. 

It  is  very  pleasant  to  eat,  and  have  nothing  to  pay. —  Spatiish  Proverb. 


Notwithstanding  all  that  may  be 
thought  and  said  of  the  inadequacy  of 
houses  and  lands,  food  and  raiment,  to 
give  satisfaction  and  contentment  in 
this  world;  in  spite  of  the  old  refrain, 

"  Man  wants  but  little  here  below, 
Nor  wants  that  little  long," 

every  human  being  in  health  is  con- 
stantly on  the  alert  to  find  the  ways 
and  means  to  maintain  existence  in 
accordance  with  a  real  or  fancied  posi- 
tion in  life.  No  matter  how  large  the 
income  may  be, —  for  as  one  rises  in 
the  social  scale  his  wants  increase  in 
like  ratio, —  there  is  always  something 
that  is  most  earnestly  desired,  for  the 
attainment  of  which  no  easy  way  seems 
provided. 

Indeed,  when  a  family's  income  has 
become  a  fixed  quantity,  and  no  wind- 
falls are  expected,  there  seems  but  two 
possible  ways  of  future  attainment, 
viz.,  to  go  without  something  else,  and 
thus  provide  for  the  seemingly  most 
urgent  good,  or  else  devise  some  means 
by  which  a  substantial  addition  may 
be  made  to  the  annual  income.  The 
joy  of  possession  lies  at  the  root  of 
whatever  has  been  accomplished  in 
every  field  of  effort,  —  possession  for 
our  own  good,  or  more  often  for  the 
good  of  those  near  us,  .  Possession  is 
the  actuating  motive  that  keeps  this 
work-a-day  world  constantly  in  motion. 


In  seeking  means  of  gain,  apart  from 
that  of  ever  sacrificing  a  lesser  good, 
many  a  woman,  living  on  a  farm  in 
the  country,  might  admit  to  her  home 
those  whose  coming,  if  rightly  man- 
aged, would  provide  the  wherewithal 
to  carry  out  long-cherished  plans.  To 
those  contemplating  this  course  there 
are  many  things  to  consider, —  things 
that  go  far  towards  making  such  an 
undertaking  a  financial  and  otherwise 
gratifying  success. 

First  of  all,  what  of  the  "stock  in 
trade  "  ?  The  mere  fact  that  a  family 
on  a  farm,  in  the  country,  is  desirous 
of  taking  boarders  does  not  furnish 
conclusive  evidence  that  they  can  do 
so  successfully.  There  needs  be  some 
special  fitness  in  the  surroundings,  and 
in  the  individuals  themselves. 

The  profit  from  the  undertaking  is 
largely  vested  in  the  ability  to  cater  to 
a  comparatively  large  circle.  One  or 
two  boarders,  at  five  dollars  each  per 
week,  would  give  no  return  for  the  extra 
outlay  necessary  in  service,  materials, 
etc.  Numbers  here  are  requisite  for 
success ;  and  yet  one  needs  begin  on  a 
small  scale,  and,  as  success  is  assured, 
add  to  her  equipment. 

Certain  things  cannot  be  expected 
in  the  real  country,  but  a  fire  (on  the 
hearth)  on  chilly  evenings  and  cold, 
rainy  days,  will   occasion   a   sense    of 


22 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


comfort  and  cheer  that  will  send  guests 
back  to  your  fireside  year  after  year. 
Good  beds,  screens  at  doors  and  win- 
dows, fresh  table  linen,  and,  above  all 
else,  palatable,  well-cooked  food,  are 
prime  essentials. 

Three  substantial  meals  must  be 
provided  daily;  and  it  will  require  skil- 
ful management  and  indefatigable  ap- 
plication to  furnish  palatable  food  and 
service,  such  as  is  required,  and  leave 
a  margin  of  profit  when  the  number  of 
guests  does  not  exceed  twelve  and  the 
price  of  board  per  week  is  but  five 
dollars.  The  products  of  the  kitchen 
garden,  the  hennery,  the  dairy,  and  an 
improvised  icehouse  must  be  available. 

On  account  of  the  cost  of  service, 
numbers  of  people  w^ho  live  in  the  city 
scarcely  know  the  taste  of  other  than 
canned  vegetables;  and  spinach,  beets, 
peas,  corn,  squash,  and  tomatoes,  red- 
olent with  the  fresh  flavor  of  the  moist 
earth  and  the  early  dew^,  will  be  most 
gladly  w^elcomed.  These,  with  fresh 
eggs  and  wild  berries,  with  cream  or 
milk,  furnish  a  larder  not  to  be  de 
spised. 

But  supplying  the  larder  is  at  best 
only  half  a  solution  of  the  problem. 
In  most  cases  the  raw  materials  must 
be  cooked.  The  woman  who  has  an 
innate  taste  for  cooking  need  never 
despair  of  keeping  her  table  well  filled 
with  guests.  This  is  a  hungry  world, 
and  the  knowledge  of  the  place  where 
an  edible  meal  may  be  had  travels  in 
the  air,  as  it  were.  Give  a  tramp  a 
cup  of  hot  coffee  and  a  plate  of  palat- 
able food,  on  occasion,  and  by  some 
invisible  telegraphy,  known  only  to 
the  initiated,  every  tramp  in  the  coun- 
try knows  just  the  hour  at  which  your 
morning    cup    is    brewed ;    and,   while 


every  other  house  in  the  neighborhood 
is  immune,  as  far  as  such  calls  are  con- 
cerned, yours  will  be  repeatedly  visited 
by  the  hungry  knights  of  the  road. 
Travelling  salesmen,  to  a  man,  "cut" 
certain  hostelries ;  while  other  quiet, 
unobtrusive  houses  are  never  without 
their  full  quota  of  guests  for  a  Sunday, 
—  men  who  have  *' made  "  this  place, 
though  it  be  out  of  their  line  of  travel, 
because  some  one  has  intimated  that 
here  was  a  home-like  house  and  palat- 
able food.  It  is  not  expensive  mate- 
rials, rare  and  imported  dainties,  that 
are  sought,  but  common,  inexpensive 
food  products,  so  cooked  and  served 
that  they  can  be  relished. 

It  will  pay,  financially,  for  the  solici- 
tor of  favors  in  this  business  to  learn 
the  effects  of  heat  and  water  upon  va- 
rious food  products;  when  to  use  each 
generously,  and  when  to  refrain  from 
such  use ;  it  will  pay  to  be  able  to  de- 
termine the  proper  moment  to  remove 
an  article  from  contact  with  the  cook- 
ing media,  and  to  acquire  the  art  of 
delicate  seasoning  and  flavoring. 

How  to  serve  food  in  a  country  farm- 
house with  a  family  and  few  guests  is 
a  vexed  question  to  be  settled  accord- 
ing to  varying  conditions.  Where  the 
guests  do  not  exceed  a  dozen,  and  the 
time  of  serving  meals  is  limited  to  one 
hour,  probably  the  use  of  small  tables 
will  meet  with  most  favor.  This  plan 
admits  of  seating  the  guests  in  families 
or  in  congenial  groups.  The  home 
table  should  be  presided  over  by  the 
mother  or  daughter,  w^ho  from  thence 
dispenses  the  tea  and  coffee  for  all, 
and  carves  when  carving  is  required. 
She  is  thus  able  to  exercise  supervision 
over  the  dining-room  without  imposing 
any  restraint  upon  the  guests. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


23 


BILL  OF  FARE  AT  FARMHOUSE  ONE  WEEK  IN  JULY. 

Price  of  Board,  $5.00  Per  Week.    Pamily  of  Twelve. 

Our    stomachs  will   make  what's    homely  savory.  —  Cymbeline ,  Hi.  6. 


Toasted  Wheat,  Cream. 
Baked  Beans,  Codfish  Balls. 
Pickled  Beets.     Brownbread.     White  Bread. 
Wild  Raspberries.     Coffee. 

Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

Chicken  Sauted  with  Bacon. 

New  Potatoes.     Peas. 

Lettuce-and-Cucumber  Salad. 

Raspberry  Cannelon.  Cookies. 

Cereal  Coffee, 

Dried  Beef. 

Bread  and  Butter.     New  Apple  Sauce. 

Cottage  Cheese.     Tea. 


Barley  Crystals,  Cream. 

Brook  Trout,   Fried.     Cucumbers. 

Baked  Potatoes. 

Cerealine  Muffins.  Dry  Toast. 

Berries.     Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of-Pea  Soup. 

Corned  Beef.  Boiled  Potatoes. 

Boiled  Cabbage,  Hoilandaise  Sauce. 

Blueberry  Sponge,  Cream. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

SVPJ^EJi. 

Salt  Codfish,  Toasted. 

Bread  and  Butter.     Custard  Pie. 

Cookies.         Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grape  Nuts,  Cream. 

Victoria  Chicken.  Toast. 

Baked  Potatoes.      Toasted  Wheat,  Fried. 

Maple  Syrup.  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Chicken  Soup. 

Broiled  Ham.    Poached  Eggs.    Mashed  Potato. 

Spinach. 

German  Puffs,  Raspberry  Sauce. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

SUrPER. 

Milk  Toast. 

Baked-Bean  Salad.     Bread  and  Butter. 

Blueberries.      Cookies. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Vitos,  Cream. 

Corned-Beef  Hash.        Eggs  in  Shell. 

Pickled  Beets. 

Blueberry  Muffins.     Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Stewed  Chicken,  Baking-Powder  Biscuit. 

Cabbage  aii  Gratin.    String  Beans. 

Green-Tomato  Sweet  Pickle. 

Vanilla  Ice-Cream,  Maple  Sauce.     Cookies. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Corned  Beef,  Sliced  Thin. 

Lettuce  Salad.         Bread  and  Butter. 

Berries.         Cake. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Pettijohn's  Breakfast  Food. 

Fried  Pork.      Fried  Apples. 

Scrambled  Eggs.     Baked  Potato  Cakes. 

Quaker  Oats  Biscuit  (Baking  Powder). 

Blueberries.     Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of-Spinach  Soup. 

Black  Bass  Baked  with  Stuffing. 

Peas.       Potatoes. 

Beets   Stuffed    wnth    Cucumber,   French 

Dressing. 

Blueberry  Pie.         Cereal  Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Lettuce  and-Egg  Salad,  Boiled  Dressing. 

Toasted  Biscuit.     Rye  Bread. 

Berries.         Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Gluten  Breakfast  Cereal,  Cream. 

Creamed  Corned  Beef  aii  Gratin. 

Cucumbers. 

Boston  Brownbread,  Toasted. 

Berries.     Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Creole  Soup. 

Boiled  Salt  Salmon,  Egg  Sauce. 

Potatoes.     Peas.     Early  Sweet  Corn. 

Cole-slaw.     Blackberry  Shortcake. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Wheatlet  and  Milk. 

Bread  and  Butter.     New  Apple  Sauce. 

Cottage  Cheese. 

Chocolate  Custard.     Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Old  Gristmill  Rolled  Wheat, 

Cream. 

Salmon  Heated  in  Cream. 

Baked  Potatoes.    Toast. 

Blackberries. 

Coffee. 


DINNER  (Picnic). 

Cold  Tongue. 
Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell. 
Green-Tomato  Pickles. 
Bread  -  and  -  Butter    Sand- 
wiches. 
Potato  Salad. 
Milk  Sherbet  (Lemon). 
Cake.     Coffee. 


SUPPER. 

Fish  Chowder,  Crackers. 

Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Cereal-Coffee  Jelly. 

Whipped  Cream. 

Iced  Tea. 


24 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


SPECIAL  MENUS  FOR  EARLY  SUMMER, 

WEDDING   BREAKFAST  (JUNE). 

(Guests  Seated.) 

"They  present  her  with  wedding  gilts  and  offerings  of  consecrated  wild  rice." 

Sugared  Strawberries  in  Swedish  Cases.     Devilled  Clams  in  Shells. 

Cutlets     of     Chicken    Breast,    with    Ragout.     Hot  Yeast  Rolls.     New  Peas. 

Tomatoes  Stuffed  with  Sweetbread  and  Cucumber. 

White  Mayonnaise.  Mosaic  Sandwiches. 

Strawberry  Sherbet  and  Banana  Cream,  Panach^e. 

Bride's  Cake.  Assorted  Cakes.  Bonbons. 

Coffee. 


CLASS=DAY   SPREAD   (JUNE). 

Safe  from  any  contagion  of  learning,  except  such  as  might  be  developed  from 
previous  infection. —  Lowell. 

Sweetbread  Patties.         Asparagus  Patties. 

Salmon  Salad  in  Aspic. 

Lobster   Salad.       Pim-olas.         Salted  Nuts.        Salad  Rolls. 

Chicken  Loaf.  Boiled  Ham. 

Assorted  Sandwiches. 

Red-Orange   Sherbet,  Moulded;    Garnish:  Pineapple  Jelly  (tinted  green). 

Strawberry-Pudding  Glace.       Fruit  Punch.       Lemonade. 


COUNTRY    LUNCHEON    (JULY). 

(Unexpected  Guests.) 

"  She  brought  us,  in  a  beechen  bowl, 

Sweet  milk  that  smacked  of  mountain  thyme 
Oatcake  ;  and  such  a  yellow  roll 
Of  butter — it  gilds  all  my  rhyme." 


Currants,   Red  and  White.     Sugar. 
Sardine  Canapes.     Olives.     Broiled  Chicken,  Alabama  Style. 
Cuiry  of  Rice.     New  Peas. 
Lettuce-and-Asparagus  Salad.     Cheese  Croutons. 

Curds  and  Whey,  (Junket)  Cream.      Cafe   Noir. 

Cream-of-Pea  Soup.  Home-Cured  Ham,   Broiled. 

Lettuce,  Cucumbers  and  Peppergrass,   French  Dressing. 

Wheat  Mutiins.     Wild  Red  Raspberries.     Cream.      Coffee. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING  SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


25 


RECIPES  USED  IN  PRECEDING  MENUS. 

(In  all  recipes  where  fioiir  is  used,  wiles s  otherivisc  stated,  the  flour  is  measured 
after  sifti?ig  once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  flUed  with  a 
spoon  and  a  level  cupful  is  meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  feaspoonful  of  any 
designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful  of  such  material.) 


Creole  Soup. 
Boil  young  peas,  asparagus  tips,  and 
small  dice  of  carrots,  separately,  until 
tender ;  drain,  and  set  aside  to  serve 
in  the  soup.  To  the  water  in  which 
the  vegetables  were  cooked  add  enough 
to  make  one  quart;  in  this  cook  two 


from  the  fire  ivithout  boiling;  add  more 

seasoning,  if  desired,  and  the  prepared 

vegetables.     Serve  with  croutons. 

Consomme  with   Chicken   Custard  a?td 

Peas. 

To  three  pints  of  hot  consomme  add 

half  a  cup  of  cooked  peas  or  asparagus 


TURBAN  OF  LOBSTER. 


onions  and  two  or  three  stalks  of  celery, 
pass  through  a  sieve,  add  a  pint  of 
scalded  milk,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  cook  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
stirring  constantly  at  first,  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  diluted  with 
cold  milk.  Beat  the  yolks,  of  two  eggs, 
dilute  with  a  little  of  the  hot  soup,  and 
stir  into  the  rest  of  the  soup.     Remove 


tips,  and  the  following  custard  cut  into 
slices,  and  then  into  cubes  or  fanciful 
shapes.  Tomato  pulp  may  be  used  in 
the  place  of  the  milk  or  cream,  when  a 
pink  color  is  desired. 

Chicken   Custard. 
Pound  two  ounces  of  cooked  chicken 
(one-fourth  a  cup)   in   a  mortar;  with 
the  pestle  press    it   through    a   puree 


26 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


sieve,  add  two  eggs  slightly  beaten,  ten 
drops  of  almond  extract,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream,  and  salt 
and  cayenne  to  taste.  Turn  into  a  but- 
tered mould  or  cup,  and  set  in  hot 
water  to  poach.  Let  cool  before  un- 
moulding  and  cutting. 

Cream  of  Asparagus. 
Wash  one  bunch  of  asparagus;  cut 
off  the  tips  and  cook  separately.     Cut 
the  rest  in  pieces,  and  cook,  until  tender, 


Turban  of  Lobster. 
Cook  one -fourth  a  cup,  each,  of 
bread  crumbs  and  cream ;  add  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  pounded  lobster  meat, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  the  beaten  whites 
of  two  eggs.  Line  a  border  mould 
with  this  mixture,  and  arrange  the  lob- 
ster tail,  cut  in  coUops,  in  the  centre. 
Stir  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  one 
whole  egg,  well  beaten,  into  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  white  sauce  ;  add  salt 


CUTLETS  OF  CHICKEN  BREAST  WITH   MUSflROOMS. 


in  Avater  to  cover ;  then  pass  through 
a  sieve.  Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  but- 
ter, and  cook  in  it  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
flour ;  add  one  pmt  of  milk  and  one 
quart  of  white  stock,  \vell  seasoned ; 
let  boil  ten  minutes  at  one  side  of  the 
range,  then  add  the  asparagus  water 
and  pulp,  and  half  a  cup  of  thick 
cream ;  add  more  salt  and  pepper  if 
needed,  and  nutmeg  as  desired.  Pour 
into  the  tureen  over  the  asparagus  tips 
with  a  cup  of  cooked  peas. 


and  pepper,  if  needed,  and  pour  around 
the  collops.  Bake,  standing  in  a  pan 
of  water^  until  firm ;  let  stand  a  mo- 
ment, then  turn  from  the  mould,  and 
serve  with  butter  or  cream  sauce. 
Cutlets  of  Chicken  Breast  ivith  Mush- 
roo7ns. 
Remove  meat  from  the  legs  and  sec- 
ond joints  of  an  uncooked  fowl,  to 
make  half  a  pound,  then  cook  the  rest  of 
the  fowl  until  tender.  Pound  the  raw 
meat  to  a  smooth  pulp  (this  may  be  done 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


27 


more  easily  if  the  tendons  be  drawn 
from  the  legs  before  dressing);  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  one 
tablespoonful  of  thick  bechamel  sauce, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  the  unbeaten 
white  of  one  Q.g^ ;  mix  thoroughly  and 
pass  through  a  sieve.  Sprinkle  a  dozen 
buttered  cutlet  moulds  with  chopped 
parsley ;  fit  into  each  a  very  thin  slice 
of  cooked  chicken  breast,  cover  w4th  a 
layer  of    pounded  chicken,    and    press 


chopped  fine,  in  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  with  a  slice  of  onion ;  drain 
out  the  mushrooms  and  onion,  and 
add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  :  when 
melted,  add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour, 
cook  until  frothy,  add  one  cup  and  a 
half  of  chicken  broth,  salt  and  pepper, 
and,  when  the  boiling-point  is  reached, 
add  the  mushrooms  and  the  rest  of  the 
chicken  cut  in  cubes.  Let  stand  over 
hot    water   fifteen    or    twentv  minutes, 


'EAL  FORCEMEAT  BALLS   i.\  .CURRt    SAuCE, 


upon  this  a  thin  slice  of  chicken,  tongue, 
or  ham.  cutting  it  to  fit  the  mould  :  set 
the  moulds  on  a  trivet  in  a  pan,  pour 
boiling  water  around  them,  and  poach 
in  the  oven,  or  on  the  top  of  the  range, 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  With  pastry 
bag  and  star  tube  fashion  an  open  case 
of  either  plain  mashed  or  duchess  po- 
tato;  arrange  the  cutlets  around  the 
case,  and  fill  the  centre  with 

MUSHROOMS    IX    BECHAMEL    SAUCE. 

Saute'   a   pound  of  mushroom  caps, 
peeled  and  broken  in  pieces,  and  stems 


then  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  beaten, 
and  diluted  with  from  half  to  a  whole 
cup  of  cream,  as  is  needed. 
Veal  Forcc77ieat  Balls  in  Curry  Sauce. 
Pass  a  pound  and  a  half  of  veal  and 
one-fourth  a  pound  of  salt  pork  through 
a  meat-chopper;  add  one  cup  and  a 
half  of  cracker  crumbs,  a  teaspoonful 
and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  half  a  cup  of  cream,  milk, 
stock,  or  water,  two  well-beaten  eggs, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Shape 
into  balls  ;  saute  the  balls  to  a  golden 


28 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


brown,  on  all  sides,  in  salt-pork  fat  or 
butter,  with  a  sliced  onion.  Take  out 
the  balls,  add  more  butter  if  needed, 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  liour,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt ;  when  frothy  dilute 
with  about  a  pint  of  milk,  water,  or 
stock,  let  boil,  then  strain  over  the 
balls,  which  should  be  half  covered 
with  the  sauce  ;  cover,  and  let  simmer 
slowly,  about  forty-five  minutes.    Serve 


Then  brush  over  with  butter  and  broil 
in  a  well  -  oiled  broiler  to  a  golden 
brown.  Pour  over  the  chicken  the 
gravy  in  which  it  was  cooked.  Sprinkle 
with  fine-chopped  cress. 

Chicken  Loaf. 
Remove  the  flesh  from  two  uncooked 
fowl  weighing  about  three  pounds  and 
one-half,  each ;  chop  fine  with  one 
pound  of  veal  and  a  cup  of  blanched 
almonds.    Add  six  crackers,  rolled  fine, 


CURRIED  VEGETABLES. 


in  the  centre  of  a  ring  of  hot  boiled 
rice. 

Broiled  Chicke^i,  Alabama  Style. 
Cut  a  young  chicken,  neatly  dressed, 
in  halves,  cutting  down  the  back  and 
breast ;  with  small  wooden  skewers 
fasten  a  strip  of  bacon  over  the  breast 
on  each  piece ;  put  in  a  dripping- 
pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
melted  in  half  a  cup  of  hot  water,  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Bake 
until  tender,  basting  often,  or  without 
basting  if  covered  with  a  second  pan. 


one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  pepper,  four  eggs  well  beaten, 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  milk  or  sauce,  and 
onion  juice,  mushroom  catsup  and 
ground  mace,  one  or  all,  to  suit  the 
taste.  Mix  thoroughly  and  shape  into 
a  compact  loaf.  Slide  on  to  a  tin  bak- 
ing-sheet, brush  over  with  beaten  egg, 
sprinkle  with  crumbs,  cover  the  top 
with  slices  of  salt  pork  or  bacon,  and 
bake,  resting  on  a  rack  in  the  dripping- 
pan,   about  two    hours,    basting  often. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


29 


The  oven  should  be  very  hot  at  first, 
to  sear  over  the  outside  and  keep  in 
the  juice,  then  the  temperature  should 
be  lowered  to  a  very  moderate  heat. 
Serve  when  cold,  sliced  very  thin. 
Cover  the  skin  and  bones  with  cold 
water  and  let  simmer  to  a  pint  of  stock. 
Curried  Vegetables. 
Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  and 
cook    in    it    half    an  onion ;    add  one- 


oil  to  coat  the  peas,  and  one-third  as 
much  vinegar  as  oil),  dust  with  black 
pepper,  freshly  ground  when  possible, 
also  salt  if  needed.  Toss  the  peas  un- 
til well  mixed  with  the  condiments,  then 
turn  into  a  salad  bowl  and  arrange  the 
fish,  well  drained,  in  the  centre  of  the 
peas.  Finish  with  heart  leaves  of  let- 
tuce and  mayonnaise  dressing  and  serve 
at  once. 


SALMON-AND-GREEN-PEA  SALAD 


fourth  a  cup  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful 
of  curry  powder,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and,  when  well  cooked,  a  pint  of 
milk ;  strain  over  one  cup  of  cooked 
peas,  half  a  cup,  each,  of  potato  balls, 
turnips  cut  into  straws,  and  carrots  cut 
into  fanciful  shapes.  Reheat  over  hot 
water. 

Salmo7i-a7id-Green-Fea  Salad. 
Squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over 
squares  or  flakes  of  cooked  salmon 
(fresh  or  canned)  and  ■  let  stand  to 
chill.  Dress  one  pint  of  cooked  peas 
with  oil  and  vinegar  (use  just  enough 


Rolled  Lorn  of  Veal. 
Bone  a  loin  of  veal  and  trim  neatly. 
Chop  one-fourth  a  pound  of  bacon  very 
fine  and  mix  with  two  cups  of  soft  bread 
crumbs  ;  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  sweet  herbs  or  spiced 
seasoning,  salt  and  pepper ;  add  a 
beaten  egg,  and,  if  liked  moist,  about 
half  a  cup  of  water.  Spread  the  dress- 
ing upon  the  inside  of  the  veal,  roll 
tightly,  and  keep  in  shape  with  bands 
of  cloth.  Cover  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings with  cold  water;  when  heated 
to   the  boiling-point,  put  the   loin   on 


30 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


the  bones,  and  strips  of  bacon  over  the 
veal ;  add  water  to  cover  partly,  and 
let  simmer  gently  about  four  hours,  or 
until  tender,  adding  salt  when  half 
cooked.  Partly  cool  in  the  liquid, 
drain,  and  finish  cooling  under  a  weight. 
Strain  the  broth  from  the  bones,  let 
cool,  remove  the  fat,  and  reduce  the 
residue  to  a  glaze  by  cooking.  Re- 
move the  strips  of  cloth  from  the  meat, 
brush  over  several  times  with  melted 


with  a  string.  Bake  about  twenty 
minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  Remove  the 
string  and  serve  in  the  papers.  Pass, 
at  the  same  time,  hollandaise,  becha- 
mel, or  tomato  sauce. 

Bass  Forcemeat. 
Pound  in  a  mortar  half  a  pound  of 
bass,  from  which  the  skin  and  bones 
have  been  taken ;  add  to  the  fish,  while 
pounding,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  little 
at  a  time,  pass  through   a  sieve,  add 


STUFFED-EGG-AND-TOMATO  SALAD. 


glaze,  and  serve,  sliced  thin.     Garnish 
with  parsley. 

Brook  Trout  ifi  Paper  Cases. 
Dress  half  a  dozen  brook  trout, 
weighing  four  ounces  each,  without 
destroying  shape.  Fill  with  a  fish 
forcemeat,  and  secure  the  slit  made  in 
dressing.  Brush  over  with  melted  but- 
ter, or  olive  oil,  pieces  of  paper,  and 
put  a  very  thin  shaving  of  salt  pork  in 
the  centre  of  each,  with  a  trout  above 
it ;  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
fold  the  paper,   and  fasten   it  closely 


gradually  half  a  cup  of  cream,  and  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper. 

Stuffed- Egg-a7id-  Tomato  Salad. 
Cut  two  hard-boiled  eggs  into  halves 
lengthwise;  remove  the  yolks,  and  cut 
the  rounding  side  so  that  the  ^gg  will 
stand  level  on  tomatoes  cut  in  halves. 
Sift  the  yolks,  add  half  a  cucumber 
chopped  fine,  and  four  fillets  of  an- 
chovy cut  in  small  pieces ;  mix  with 
mayonnaise  dressing  and  fill  the  space 
left  by  the  yolks  with  the  mixture, 
rounding  it  on  top;  place  a  rolled  fillet 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


31 


of  anchovy  on  the  top  of  this,  add 
crisp  lettuce,  and  serve  with  mayon- 
naise in  a  bowl. 

Blueberry  Pitffs. 
Beat  two  eggs  until  light  and  thick, 
without  separating ;  add  half  a  cup  of 
sugar  and  half  a  cup  of  milk.  Sift 
together  four  level  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  two  cups  of  flour,  and  stir  into  the 
liquid    ingredients ;    then    stir    in    one 


standing  over  hot  water.  Cut  choice 
strawberries  in  halves  lengthwise,  dip 
the  cut  sides  in  the  gelatine,  and  with 
them  line  a  glass  serving-dish,  chilled. 
Add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  a  cup  of  water, 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  the  rest  of 
a  quart  of  berries,  and  cook  until  the 
berries  are  softened.  (There  should 
be  a  generous  pint  of  the  mixture.) 
Stir  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  fine,  quick- 
cooking    tapioca    and    cook    until  the 


STRAWBERRY  TAPIOCA. 


cup  of  blueberries.  Turn  into  buttered 
cups  (seven  or  eight  will  be  needed) 
and  steam  half  an  hour.  The  batter 
should  be  of  a  consistency  to  drop 
from  the  end  of  a  spoon.  In  some 
cases  one-fourth  to  one-half  a  cup  more 
of  flour  will  be  needed.  Serve  hot, 
with  cream  and  sugar,  or  maple  syrup 
and  butter. 

Strawberry  Tapioca. 
Soften    half    a  teaspoonful  of  gela- 
tine in  cold  water  to  cover ;    dissolve 
with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  boiling  water 


tapioca  is  transparent  (from  five  to  ten 
minutes);  then  fold  in  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  beaten  stiff,  let  cool  slightly,  then 
pour  into  the  dish  lined  with  berries. 
Chill,  and  at  serving-time  decorate  with 
double  cream,  sweetened  and  beaten 
solid,  and  whole  berries. 

Strawberry  Cream  in  Glasses. 
Mix  together  one  quart  of  ripe  straw- 
berries (wild  berries  preferred),  a  scant 
pint  of  thick,  sweet  cream,  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Pass  the  mix- 
ture through  a  fine  sieve,  then  add  a 


32 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


cup  and  a  fourth  of  sugar,  and  whip 
until  stiff.  Serve  very  cold  in  glasses 
with  lady- fingers  or  other  delicate 
cake.  If  the  berries  are  acid,  more 
sugar  will  be  required. 

Straivberry  Souffle. 
Cream  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter; 
add  gradually  half  a  cup  of  flour,  and, 
when  well  blended,  dilute  with  one 
cup  and  a  half  of  hot  strawberry 
pulp  (strawberries  mashed  and  pressed 


ICED    PUREE    OF    STRAWBERRIES. 

Pound  together  a  quart  of  straw- 
berries, a  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  then  pass  through 
a  fine  sieve  or  a  cheese-cloth.  Serve 
after  chilling  on  ice. 

Strawbei-?-y   Tj'ifle. 

Cut  strawberries  in  halves  and  mix 
with  fine  granulated  sugar  to  taste ;  let 
stand  half  an  hour.  Arrange  lady- 
fingers,   log-cabin   style,  on  a  serving- 


STRAWBERRY  TR  -LE 


through  a  fine  sieve),  and  cook  over 
hot  water,  stirring  constantly,  until 
thickened,  then  occasionally,  ten  min- 
utes ;  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beat 
again  with  a  cup  of  sugar,  and,  when 
the  ^gg  looks  cooked,  add  a  cup  of 
sliced  berries  and  fold  in  the  whites  of 
six  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Turn  into  a 
buttered  baking-dish,  or  into  buttered 
paper  cases.  In  former,  set  in  hot 
water  and  bake  about  forty  minutes; 
in  latter,  about  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
at  once  with  an 


dish,  filling  in  the  open  space  in 
the  centre,  as  the  cakes  are  added, 
with  the  sugared  berries :  pile  the 
berries  on  the  top  to  simulate  a 
roof,  and  cover  with  the  whip  from  a 
cup  of  thin  cream  beaten  with  a  whip- 
churn. 
Rhuha?-h  Jelly  7vith  P?-ese?'ved  Ginger. 
Add  to  the  recipe  for  rhubarb  jelly, 
given  in  a  former  number  of  the  Maga- 
zine, one-fourth  a  cup  of  syrup  from 
the  ginger  jar  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
ginger  cut  in  very  small  bits. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


33 


Banana  Custard. 

Free  three  bananas  from  skins  and 
stringy  portions,  pass  through  a  vege- 
table ricer  or  sieve,  and  add  to  a  pint 
of  scalded  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and 
when  well  mixed  with  the  yolks  dilute 
gradually  with  the  hot  mixture ;  then 
return  the  whole  to  a  saucepan  and 
cook  over  hot  water,  stirring  constantly, 
until  the  mixture  coats  the  spoon. 
Flavor  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon 
or  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract.  Turn  into  glasses  and  serve 
thoroughly  chilled.  Put  two  or  three 
strawberries  and  two  or  three  slices  of 
banana  on  the  top  of  the  custard  in 
each  glass  at  serving. 

Hamburg  Cream  ivith  Fruit  Juice. 

Put  a  cup  of  raspberry  juice  and  a 
cup  of  currant  juice  in  a  double  boiler 
over  the  fire  to  heat.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  nine  eggs;  add  one  cup  and  a 
fourth  of  granulated  sugar  and  beat 
again ;  add  the  juice  scalding  hot  to 
the  eggs  and  sugar,  little  at  a  time,  and 
return  the  mixture  to  the  boiler  and 
cook  until  it  thickens  as  a  boiled  cus- 
tard; remove  from  the  fire  and  fold 
into  the  mixture  the  stiffly  beaten 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Serve  very  cold  in 
small  glasses  with  macaroons  or  cake. 
Milk  Sherbet  (^Lemo?i). 

Pour  one  quart  of  milk  and  one  cup 
of  cream  into  the  can  of  a  freezer 
packed  in  ice  and  salt ;  when  thor- 
oughly chilled,  add  the  juice  of  six 
lemons  (removed  in  such  a  way  that 
none  of  the  oil  from  the  rind  is  ex- 
tracted) mixed  with  two  cups  of  sugar. 
Freeze  as  usual. 

Ginger  Sherbet. 

Boil  a  quart   of  water  and  a  pint  of 


sugar  fifteen  minutes ;  add  one  tea- 
spoonful of  gelatine  softened  in  cold 
water,  strain,  and  when  cool  add  (re- 
serve two  ounces  of  the  ginger  root)  a 
fifteen  -  cent  jar  of  preserved  ginger 
pounded  in  a  mortar  and  passed 
through  a  sieve,  and  a  cup  and  one- 
fourth  of  lemon  juice.  Freeze  in  the 
usual  manner,  adding,  when  half  frozen, 
the  two  ounces  of  ginger  cut  in  small 
pieces. 

Gifiger  Bojnbe  Glace. 

Line  a  melon  mould  with  ginger 
sherbet :  fill  the  centre  with  charlotte- 
russe  mixture,  cover  with  sherbet,  press 
down  the  cover  tightly  over  a  sheet  of 
wrapping-paper,  and  let  stand  about 
one  hour  packed  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt. 

Charlotte-Russe  Mixture. 

Beat  one  cup  of  double  cream, 
chilled,  until  solid  to  the  bottom  of  the 
bowl ;  beat  the  white  of  an  egg  stiff, 
add  gradually  one  third  a  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
or  lemon  extract,  then  fold  the  cream 
into  the  ^g^  mixture. 

Banana  Ice-Creain. 

Heat  one  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of 
thick  cream,  and  one  cup  and  a  fourth 
of  sugar  until  lukewarm,  not  exceeding 
loo^  Fahr. ;  stir  in  one  junket  tablet 
crushed  and  dissolved  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water ;  let  stand  un- 
til the  milk  jellies,  then  begin  to  freeze 
in  the  usual  manner.  When  half 
frozen,  add  six  or  eight  bananas, 
peeled,  scraped,  pressed  through  a 
sieve  or  ricer,  and  mixed  with  the  juice 
of  three  lemons,  and  finish  freezing. 
This  cream  is  particularly  good  served 
with  strawberry  sherbet.  The  two  may 
be  moulded  in  layers  in  a  brick  mould, 
or  as  a  bombe  in  a  melon  mould. 


34 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


RECIPES  FROM  PUBLIC  DEMONSTRATIONS  AT  THE  BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL. 


German  Chocolate  Cookies. 

Beat  two  eggs  without  separating 
whites  and  yolks ;  add  one  cup  of 
brown  sugar,  two  bars  of  German  choc- 
olate, grated,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  cinnamon,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and  one  cup 
and  a  third  of  chopped  almonds;  then 
add  one  cup  of  flour  and  a  level  tea- 
spoonful of  baking-powder,  sifted  to- 
gether. Drop  on  buttered  tins  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Wabiut  Macaroo7is. 

Pound  fine  one-fourth  a  pound  of 
walnuts  with  one-fourth  a  pound  of 
sugar.  Mix  with  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  beaten  stiff.  Shape  with  a  spoon 
or  pastry  tube  and  bag  on  unbuttered 
paper,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until 
firm. 

Scotch   Cake. 

Work  together  half  a  pound  of  bread 
flour,  one -fourth  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Chill,  roll  out  one-third  an  inch  thick, 
and  cut  in  triangles  or  other  shape. 
Bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Currant  Cake. 

Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter;  add, 
gradually,  one  cup  of  sugar,  then  two 
eggs  and  the  yolk  of  a  third,  well  beat- 
en, half  a  cup  of  milk,  and  two  cups  of 
flour  sifted  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and,  lastly,  one  cup  of 
currants  mixed  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  flour.  Bake  forty  minutes  in  a  but- 
tered and  floured  pan. 

Ora?ige    IVafers. 

Cream  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter ; 
add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  gradually,  one 
egg  w^ell  beaten,   and    seven-eighths  a 


cup  of  flour  sifted  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder.  Add  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  yellow  grated  rind  of  an  orange 
and  one-third  a  teaspoonful  of  orange 
extract.  Chill,  roll  out,  decorate  with 
four  halves  of  blanched  almonds,  dust 
with  granulated  sugar,  and  bake  to  a 
light  straw  color  in  a  slow  oven. 

Cucumber  Sauce  for  Broiled  Fish. 

Pare  and  grate  two  cucumbers ;  drain, 
season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  vinegar, 
or  lemon  juice. 

Chickefi  a  la  Stanley. 

Melt  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter ;  add 
one  large  onion,  sliced,  and  two  chick- 
ens (broilers),  cut  in  pieces  for  serving ; 
cover,  and  cook  until  the  onion  begins 
to  fry,  then  add  one  cup  of  chicken 
stock,  and  cook  until  the  chicken  is 
tender  (make  the  stock  from  the  necks, 
pinions,  and  giblets).  Remove  the 
chicken,  pass  the  stock  and  onion 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  to  three  table- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and  flour, 
cooked  together.  Add  thin  cream  to 
make  the  sauce  of  the  right  consist- 
ency. Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Strawberry  Shortcake. 

Sift  together,  two  or  three  times,  two 
cups  of  pastry  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls 
(level  measurements)  of  baking-pow- 
der, and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cut 
into  this  mixture  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter;  add  one  beaten  ^^^.,  and  about 
half  a  cup  of  milk.  Shape,  and  bake 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  minutes.  Split 
apart  with  a  hot  knife,  spread  each 
part  with  butter,  cover  with  berries  cut 
in  halves,  and  mixed  with  sugar  to 
taste ;  put  the  two  layers  one  above 
the  other,  cover  the  top  with  whipped 
cream,  then  decorate  with  more  cream 
(using  bag  and  star  tube)  and  whole 
berries. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


35 


IN  REFERENCE  TO  MENUS. 


Special  Menus. 

The  Swedish  cases  —  batter  fried  on 
a  hot  timbale  iron  —  may  be  made  a 
day  or  two  in  advance.  Select  fresh 
choice  berries,  and  serve  unhulled. 
Brush  the  berries  with  white  of  ^gg^ 
beaten,  and  diluted  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  water ;  then  roll  lightly  in  sifted, 
powdered  sugar.  Serve  three  or  four 
berries  in  each  case. 

The  cutlets  of  chicken  breast,  with 
the  ragout,  may  be  served  with  the 
peas  on  individual  plates.  If  served 
as  in  the  half-tone,  which  makes  an 
exceedingly  pretty  dish,  it  would  un- 
doubtedly save  some  embarrassment 
if  the  dish  were  passed  to  the  hostess 
first.  She  would  help  herself  to  a  cut- 
let, a  star  of  potato  from  the  outside 
of  the  base  of  the  case  holding  the 
ragout,  also  to  some  of  the  ragout.  If 
the  other  guests  follow  her  lead,  the 
dish  will  present  a  good  appearance 
until  nearly  all  are  served. 

Double  cream,  beaten  solid,  is  added 
to  the  mayonnaise  dressing  just  at  the 
moment  of  serving.  A  few  grains  of 
salt  and  a  little  lemon  juice  may  also 
be  added. 

Let  the  sweetbread,  cut  in  small 
cubes,  stand  in  French  dressing  until 
ready  to  serve ;  drain  before  mixing 
with  the  cubes  of  cucumber  and  may- 
onnaise. 

For  mosaic  sandwiches,  cut  white, 
brown,  and  graham  (or  entire -wheat) 
bread  in  wafer-like  slices;  use  three  or 
four  pieces  in  each  sandwich,  spread 
with  butter,  and  press  together,  so  that 
the  colors  will  contrast. 

Mould  the  ice  in  brick  moulds ;  if 
moulds  having  but  one  cover  be  used, 


put  the  sherbet  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mould,  so  that,  when  turned  out,  the 
weight  will  be  upon  the  ice  of  the  most 
body. 

In  the  menu  for  the  class-day  spread, 
if  red  oranges  are  not  readily  procured, 
prepare  a  pineapple  sherbet,  tint  it  a 
delicate  green,  and,  when  serving,  sur- 
round with  strawberry  jelly  cut  fine 
with  a  fork. 

The  strawberry-pudding  glace  is 
strawberry  ice-cream  moulded  in  a 
charlotte  mould  lined  with  lady-fingers. 
As  a  charlotte  mould  is  without  a  cover, 
it  needs  be  set  into  a  pail  and  the  cover 
of  the  pail  pressed  down  over  wrapping- 
paper,  and  buried  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt  an  hour. 

In  the  country  luncheon,  serve  a 
broiled  sardine  on  a  similarly  shaped 
bit  of  bread  sauted  in  butter,  squeeze  a 
little  lemon  juice  over  the  fish,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Saratoga  potato  chips  may  be  used 
in  the  place  of  the  rice  curry  given  in 
the  menu. 

For  the  cheese  croutons  cut  the  slices 
of  bread  in  finger  lengths  or  triangles, 
or  stamp  out  into  rounds,  spread  lightly 
with  butter,  then  cover  with  a  slice  of 
cheese  thin  as  can  be  cut ;  set  in  the 
oven  a  few  moments  to  melt  the  cheese. 
The  cheese  should  not  be  browned  in 
the  least,  but  served  the  instant  it  is 
melted.  Send  to  the  dining-room  cov- 
ered with  a  hot  dish. 

Curds  and  whey  (made  with  junket) 
ought  certainly  to  be  served  in  perfec- 
tion in  the  country. 

For  the  cream-of-pea  soup,  use  left- 
over peas,  pressed  through  a  sieve  and 
diluted  with  \vhite  sauce ;  from  a  pint 


36 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE, 


to  a  quart  of  sauce  may  be  used  with 
a  pint  of  pulp.  If  too  thick,  dilute  with 
cream,  stock,  or  milk.  The  addition 
of  a  little  onion  juice  is  agreeable  to 
many. 

Me?ius  at  Fannhonse. 
If  the  chickens  to  be  served  on  Sun- 
day are  mature,  they  need  be  parboiled 
before  sauteing;  then  season,  roll  in 
flour,  and  saute  to  a  golden  brown  in 
hot  bacon  fat.  Do  not  saute  the  necks 
or  backs ;  remove  the  flesh  for  the 
Victoria  chicken,  retaining  these  bones, 
the  giblets,  the  tips  of  the  wings,  and 
the  feet,  for  the  soup  kettle. 

If  broiled  chickens  are  to  be  served, 
they  may  be  dressed  most  expeditiously 
in  this  way  :  Remove  the  feathers  and 
singe ;  cut  a  lengthwise  slit  in  the  skin 
below  the  leg  joint,  and  draw  out  the 
tendons ;  then  cut  through  the  flesh  on 
each  side  of  the  backbone,  from  the 
neck  to  the  end  of  the  rump ;  cut  the 
skin  at  the  top  of  the  breast,  and  re- 
move the  neck,  backbone,  and  all  in- 
ternal organs  in  one  mass  ;  then  scrape 
the  flesh  from  the  breastbone,  and  re- 
move that  also  ;  wipe  carefully,  brush 
over  with  oil  or  melted  butter,  and  sprin- 
kle with  lemon  juice,  sliced  onions,  and 
bits  of  parsley ;  let  stand  an  hour  or 
more,  then  drain,  and  broil  slowly  about 
half  an  hour,  basting  occasionally  with 
the  marinade,  or  cook  in  the  oven  first, 
and  then  brown  in  the  broiler. 

The  chicken  and  peas  left  over, 
heated  together  in  tomato  sauce,  give 
the  Victoria  chicken  for  Monday's 
breakfast.  At  this  meal  we  have  baked 
potatoes,  taking  advantage  of  the  hot 
range  that  has  been  heated  for  the 
wash-boiler. 

In  serving  coffee  to  this  compara- 
tively small  number,  the  coffee  may  be 
made    and   served    in    good    condition 


from  an  ordinary  coffee-pot;  but  the 
liquid  needs  be  turned  from  the  grounds 
into  a  clean  receptacle  after  it  has  stood 
the  proper  length  of  time.  If  later  on 
several  cups  are  to  be  served  at  one 
time,  stir  in  a  level  tablespoonful  of 
ground  coffee  mixed  with  a  little  white 
of  Q^g  and  cold  water;  this  is  for  sake 
of  the  aroma ;  let  boil  a  moment  or 
two,  then  serve. 

We  give  spinach  as  the  vegetable 
for  the  dinner  Monday,  hoping  that 
every  farmer  who  takes  boarders  has 
made  arrangements  for  an  early  kitchen 
garden. 

The  German  puffs,  given  many  times 
before,  are  a  delicate,  light  mixture 
baked  in  a  gem -pan  and  served  hot 
with  sauce. 

The  fried  pork  is  the  fried  salt  pork 
of  fifty  years  ago.  Select  clear,  fat 
pork,  and  cut  in  slices  about  one-third 
an  inch  in  thickness  ;  cover  them  with 
boiling  water;  then  dip  the  slices,  one 
at  a  time,  in  flour,  first  on  one  side, 
and  then  on  the  other,  and  put  at  once 
into  a  hot  frying-pan ;  let  cook  slowly 
until  well  browned,  then  turn  and  brown 
upon  the  other  side,  and  drain  on  soft 
paper.  When  well  cooked,  but  little 
remains  save  a  dry,  crispy  shell.  Drain 
off  part  of  the  fat,  and  into  the  rest 
put  some  apples,  cored,  but  sliced  with- 
out paring ;  stir  them  with  the  fat,  then 
cover,  and  let  cook  slowly  until  tender, 
turning  them  carefully  now  and  then. 

Scramble  the  eggs  in  a  part  of  the 
fat.  The  potato  cakes  are  shaped  from 
the  mashed  potato  left  from  the  pre- 
vious dinner;  these  are  brushed  over 
with  yolk  of  ^g^  diluted  with  milk 
and  baked  on  a  buttered  tin. 

Make  the  blueberry  sponge  for  Wed- 
nesday's dinner  from  bread  cut  in 
small    squares     and       fitted    into    an 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


37 


earthen  bowl ;  pour  over  the  bread,  as 
it  is  put  in  place,  as  much  hot  juice 
from  blueberries,  cooked  in  sugar,  and 
strained,  as  the  bread  will  take  up. 
Let  stand  until  cold  and  set.  Serve  with 
sugar  and  cream.  This  dish  is  most 
easily  served  when  moulded  in  cups. 

If  pastry  be  objected  to,  the  custard 
pie  may  be  made  with  a  shredded- wheat 
crust.  Butter  an  agate  pie -dish  and 
sprinkle  the  bottom  and  sides  with  the 
biscuit  rolled  fine ;  make  the  crust  as 
thick  as  desired ;  let  stand  a  few  mo- 
ments, then  fill  with  the  ordinary  cus- 
tard mixture  and  bake  as  any  pie. 

On  Saturday  a  picnic  dinner  is 
planned,  to  be  served  in  the  woods. 
An  iron  teakettle  is  to  be  carried,  so  that 
water  may  be  boiled  for  coffee.  The 
stone  "fireplace"  of  last  year  is  re- 
paired ;  an  iron  bar,  holding  the  kettle, 
is  placed  over  it,  and  with  boiling 
water  coffee  is  quickly  made ;  the  eggs 
may  be  cooked  in  hot  water,  or  roasted 
in  the  hot  ashes, — 
"Turned  by  a  gentle  fire  and  roasted  rare." 

Adolphe  Meyer,  in  his  little  book, 
"  Eggs,  and  How  to  Use  them,"  refers 
to  this  custom,  alluded  to  in  Tabella 
Cibaria     as    follows:     "In    countries 


w^here  a  wood  fire  is  constantly  used, 
the  cottager  half  buries  his  eggs  in  an 
upright  position,  in  hot  ashes,  upon 
the  hearth,  and  when  a  clear  drop 
oozes  on  the  top  of  the  shell  the  eggs 
are  fit  to  be  eaten.  Gastrologers  are 
of  the  opinion  that,  when  done  in  this 
way,  they  have  a  much  better  flavor 
than  when  boiled.  Fancy  goes  far  in 
matters  of  taste." 

For  the  potato  salad,  dress  cubes  of 
cold  potato  with  oil,  lemon  juice  or 
vinegar,  pepper  and  salt,  and  onion 
juice  and  powdered  parsley,  if  desired; 
cover  tightly  in  a  bowl ;  wash  the  let 
tuce,  and  arrange  the  leaves,  one  above 
another,  closely  together ;  then  put  in  a 
tin  pail,  and  cover  tightly  to,  exclude 
the  air.  When  ready  to  serve,  swing 
the  lettuce  gently  in  a  towel  and  it  will 
quickly  dry ;  then  add  French  dressing, 
and  serve  with  the  potatoes.  Chopped 
white  and  sifted  yolk,  or  cold  eggs  cut 
in  slices,  might  be  added  to  the  potato 
cubes,  and  dressed  with  them  before 
packing. 

The  milk  sherbet,  after  being  frozen, 
may  be  repacked  in  ice  and  salt,  and, 
if  closely  covered,  will  be  in  good  con- 
dition at  dinner  time. 


Spiced  Currants. 
Melt  four  pounds  of  sugar  in  a  pint 
of  vinegar;  add  seven  pounds  of 
currants,  one  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
ground  cinnamon  and  cloves,  one  nut- 
meg, grated,  one  teaspoonful  of  all- 
spice, and  boil  two  hours. 

Bottled  Currants. 
Mix  together  fine  granulated  sugar 
and  dry   currants,    freed   from    stems. 


in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  and  a 
fourth  of  sugar  to  one  pound  of  fruit. 
With  a  wooden  mallet,  or  pestle,  crush 
until  every  fruit  is  broken.  Fill  glass 
jars  to  overflowing  with  the  mixture. 
Use  new  rubbers,  screw  down  the 
covers  tightly,  wrap  the  jars  in  paper, 
and  keep  in  a  dark  place.  Fruit  put 
up  in  this  way  has  the  flavor  of  fresh 
fruit,  and  is  particularly  good  to  serve 
with  meats. 


Queries  and  Answers, 


This  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers. 
Questions  relatittg  to  menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary 
science  and  domestic  economics  in  general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered 
by  the  Editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month 
preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by 
mail,  please  enclose  postage  stamp  ;  for  menus,  one  dollar.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill, 
Editor,  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  ^ys  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  354. —  Mrs.  A.  W.  B.,  E?'- 
erett,  Mass.,  writes  :  ''  Kindly  give  si7?i- 
ple  but  novel  mejiii  for  a  children's  party, 
to  be  held  in  the  latter  part  of  May  or 
first  of  fune.  Also  give  recipe  for  clam 
broth  with  whipped  creai7i.'' 

Menu,   Children's  Party. 
Sugared  Strawberries  and   Oranges  in 
Orange  Baskets. 
Chicken  Broth.         Pretzels. 
Broiled  Beef  Tenderloin.    Potato  Balls. 
Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter. 
Asparagus  Tips  on  Bits  of  Toast. 
Lettuce  Salad. 
Entire  -  Wheat  -  Bread  Sandwiches. 
Ice -Cream  in  Meringues  or  Paper 
Baskets. 
Lady-Finger  Sandwiches  or  Cake  with 
Lighted  Candles. 
Jack  Horner  Pie. 
There  is   nothing  very   ''  novel "  in 
this  menu,  but  young  children  are  not 
so  fond  of  novelties  as  children  of  older 
growth.     Our  experience  is  that  they 
enjoy  most  articles  of  food  to  which 
they    are    accustomed,   or    are    served 
only  occasionally.     The  beef,  potatoes, 
and    asparagus,    served    hot,    may    be 
thought  too   troublesome  for  such  an 
occasion;  but   as  this  meal  will   prob- 
ably correspond   to  dinner,  and  often 
delicate  children  can  illy  digest  a  cold 
dinner,  it   might  be  best  to  serve  hot 
dishes. 

For  the  lady-finger  sandwiches,  lightly 
spread    fresh    fingers   with    strawberry 


preserves  and  press  together  in  pairs. 
If  a  plain  cake,  iced,  and  decorated 
with  candles,  be  desired,  very  pretty 
candle-holders  may  be  purchased  for  a 
few  cents  a  dozen ;  these  may  be  used 
many  times.  One  end  of  these  is 
sharp,  to  press  down  into  the  cake  ;  the 
other  holding  the  candle  is  cup-shaped, 
to  catch  the  wax  melted  by  the  heat. 
If  these  be  not  available,  fringed  tissue 
paper,  wound  around  the  candle,  will 
serve  the  same  purpose. 

After  the  feast  is  ended  and  the 
finger-bowls  passed,  the  Jack  Horner 
pie  may  be  brought  in  and  set  in  the 
place  of  the  floral  decoration.  This 
pie  consists  of  a  large  pan,  covered 
daintily  with  tissue  paper,  and  filled 
with  pretty  trifles  corresponding  in 
number  to  the  guests ;  to  these  trifles 
narrow  ribbons  are  attached,  the  ends 
of  which  are  passed  to  the  guests ;  the 
top  is  covered  with  paper,  thus  con- 
cealing all  that  is  within.  At  a  given 
signal  each  child  pulls  its  ribbon  and 
captures  a  little  souvenir. 
Clam  Broth  with    Whipped  Cream. 

Scrub  half  a  peck  of  clams  and 
rinse  thoroughly ;  put  in  saucepan  with 
one  cup  of  cold  water.  Cover,  and 
steam  until  the  shells  are  well  opened. 
Strain  the  liquor  and  season  with  pep- 
per. Serve  in  cups  with  a  spoonful  of 
whipped  cream  on  the  broth  in  each 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


39 


cup.  Or  cream  may  be  scalded,  and 
added  to  the  broth  just  before  serving. 
A  cup  of  cream  to  a  quart  of  broth  is 
a  fair  proportion. 


Query  355.— J/^-j-.  R.  F.  R.,  Troy, 
N'.  v.:  "  Recipes  fo?'  baked  and  fried 
bananas y 

Baked  Batianas. 

Peel  down  a  section  of  skin  from 
each  banana,  and  loosen  the  pulp,  that 
it  may  be  easily  removed  from  the 
skin  when  baked ;  replace  the  skins, 
and  set  the  bananas  into  the  oven. 
Bake  until  the  skins  are  black  and  the 
bananas  heated  through  —  no  longer. 
Remove  the  pulps  from  the  skins  and 
pile  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid.  Pour 
over  them  lemon,  currant-jelly,  or  claret 
sauce.  Serve  as  an  entree  or  an  en- 
tremet. 

Curra7it-Jelly  Sauce. 

Melt  half  a  cup  of  currant  jelly  in 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  boiling  water ;  cook 
in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  diluted 
with  cold  water  to  pour;  cook  five  or 
six  minutes,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice. 

Fried  Bananas. 

Remove  skins  and  coarse  threads 
from  the  bananas,  cut  in  halves,  length- 
wise, then  each  half  crosswise ;  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar  and  lemon  juice, 
and  let  stand  a  few  moments.  Now 
^gg  and  crumb  the  sections  (using,  if 
desired,  stale  macaroon  crumbs  instead 
of  bread),  and  fry  in  deep  fat;  drain 
on  soft  paper.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish 
covered  with  lace  paper.  Pass  with 
them  a  sweet  sauce,  if  desired. 


ziNE  C07itai7iing  certaifi  recipes  for  cur- 
ries. Also  for  recipe  for  tapioca  with 
fruit ;  not  a  soft  custard,  to  be  turned  over 
fruity  but  a  mixture  like  a  frozen  pud- 
ding. 

Color  oj  Curry  Sauce. 

A  curry  sauce  in  which  milk  or  white 
stock  is  used  is  of  a  light  yellowish 
green  color,  a  trifle  yellower  than  the 
color  of  canned  peas.  When  brown 
stock  is  used  the  color  is  a  little  darker. 

The  recipes  for  curry  of  lobster  and 
curry  of  rice  were  given  on  page  94, 
Vol.  III.  The  index  given  in  the  April- 
May  issue,  1899,  includes  the  months 
of  the  year  with  which  that  issue  ends. 
Fruit  Tapioca. 

Stir  one-third  a  cup  of  fine,  quick- 
cooking  tapioca,  with  one  cup  of  cur- 
rants, citron,  and  sultanas,  into  one 
quart  of  scalded  milk;  cook  until  the 
tapioca  is  transparent.  Beat  two  eggs 
with  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt,  mace,  and 
cinnamon ;  dilute  with  a  little  of  the 
tapioca  mixture,  then  stir  into  that  in 
the  boiler ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  turn  into  a  buttered  baking- 
dish;  bake  about  half  an  hour.  Serve 
hot  with  hard  sauce,  or  serve  cold  with 
a  meringue. 


Query  356.— ^rj-.  H.  T,  M.,  Salem, 
Mass.,  writes  in  refere?ice  to  color  of 
curry  sauce,  afid  the  issue  of  the  Maga- 


Query  357.— J/r^.  T.  G.  W.,  Soda- 
ville,  Nev. :  ^'Recipe  for  angel  cake,  and 
directions  for  mixi?ig  cake  that  shall  be 
fifie-gr allied.^'' 

Angel  Cake. 

Beat  one  cup  of  whites  of  eggs  until 
frothy  ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream- 
of-tartar,  and  continue  beating  until 
stiff ;  cut  and  fold  in  one  cup  and  a 
fourth  of  granulated  sugar,  sifted,  and 
then  one  cup  of  flour,  measured  after 
sifting  four  times.  Flavor  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla.     Bake  in  an  un- 


40 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


buttered  tube  pan,  in  oven  a  little  hot- 
ter than  for  an  ordinary  sponge  cake, 
about  one  hour. 

To  Make  Fine- Grained  Cake. 
Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ;  add  the 
sugar  gradually,  beating  until  light  and 
fluffy  before  more  is  added ;  add  the 
milk  alternately  with  the  flour,  to  which 
the  requisite  amount,  and  no  more,  of 
leavening  material  has  been  added. 
Beat  thoroughly,  then  beat  again  after 
the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs 
have  been  added.  When  yolks  are 
used,  add  them,  beaten  lightly,  to  the 
butter  and  sugar  before  the  milk  is 
added.  Bake  in  an  oven  at  proper 
temperature.  This  subject  of  mixing 
and  baking  cake  will  be  treated  more 
fully  in  the  October  number  of  this 
magazine. 


Query  358.  —  Mrs.  E.  J.  O.,  Brook- 
lyn, JV.  v.:  ^'' Recipe  for  shrimp  sauce 
served  with  shad  roe  ;  not  a  drawn-butter 
sauce — somethifig  more  delicate,  with  a 
suspicion  of  sherry  wine  about  it.^^ 
Shriinp  Sauce. 

Prepare  a  drawn-butter  sauce  with 
one-fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour  and  one  pint  of  well-seasoned 
fish  stock ;  cook  on  a  corner  of  the 
range,  where  it  bubbles  occasionally  on 
one  side,  half  an  hour  or  more ;  skim 
off  the  butter  carefully  and  add  half  a 
cup  of  sherry,  or  Madeira,  and  a  cup  of 
picked  shrimps  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice;  a  tablespoonful  of  shrimp 
butter  may  be  added  also,  if  desired. 


Query  359. — Airs.  A.  H.,  Harlem, 

N.   v.:      ^'-  Recipes  for  bouillon,  broiled 

live  lobster,   clam  fritters,    and  Boston 

brownbread.   How  sei've  the  first  three  .?" 

Bouillon. 

Cut  four  pounds  of  beef  from  the 


under  side  of  the  round,  or  from  the 
neck,  into  small  cubes ;  break  two 
pounds  of  bone  from  the  hind  shin  into 
pieces.  Saute  part  of  the  meat  in  the 
marrow  from  the  bone  to  a  rich  brown 
color ;  let  the  rest  of  the  meat  and  the 
bone  soak,  meanwhile,  in  three  quarts 
of  cold  water  (a  pint  for  each  pound  of 
bone  and  meat);  add  the  browned  meat 
to  the  contents  of  the  saucepan,  rinsing 
out  the  browned  material  in  the  frying- 
pan  with  some  of  the  liquid.  Heat  to 
the  boiling-point,  then  skim  and  let 
cook  just  below  the  boiling-point  about 
five  hours.  Then  add  one  teaspoonful 
of  peppercorns,  one  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  a  small  onion,  a  slice  of  turnip, 
three  inches  of  carrot,  and  two  stalks 
of  celery,  all  cut  fine.  Add,  also,  a  bay 
leaf,  or  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  sprig  of 
parsley ;  let  simmer  one  hour,  strain, 
and  cool  quickly.  Remove  the  fat,  add 
the  whites,  beaten  slightly,  and  the 
crushed  shells  of  three  eggs,  also,  any 
additional  seasoning  desired ;  stir  con- 
stantly, while  heating  to  the  boiling- 
point,  let  boil  five  minutes,  let  stand 
five,  then  skim,  and  pass  through  a 
cheese-cloth  spread  over  a  colander. 
Reheat,  and  serve  in  cups. 

Broiled  Live  Lobster. 
With  a  strong,  pointed  knife  make  a 
deep,  sharp  cut,  at  the  mouth,  then 
draw  the  knife  firmly  but  quickly 
through  the  body  and  entire  length  of 
tail ;  open  the  lobster  and  take  out  the 
stomach,  or  lady,  and  the  intestinal 
vein,  which  runs  from  the  stomach  to 
the  extreme  tip  of  the  tail.  Pull  off  the 
small  claws,  wash  carefully,  and  spread 
in  a  well-oiled  double  broiler.  Broil 
over  clear  coals  about  ten  minutes  on 
the  flesh  side,  basting  once  with  melted 
butter,  turn  and  broil  a  few  minutes 
less  on  the  shell  side ;  crack  open  the 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE, 


41 


large  claws  and  serve  at  once  on  a  hot 
serving-dish.  Pass  at  the  same  time 
melted  butter.  If  more  convenient, 
the  lobster  may  be  cooked  in  a  hot 
oven  about  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
half  a  lobster,  or  a  whole  one  of  small 
size,  as  a  portion.  Spread  with  butter 
before  baking. 

Clam  Fritters. 
(Boston  Cooking-School.) 

Beat  two  eggs  until  light,  add  one-" 
third  a  cup  of  milk  and  one  cup  and  a 
third  of  flour  sifted  with  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking-powder.  Chop  one  pint 
of  clams,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  stir  into  the  batter.  Drop  by 
the  spoonful  into  hot  fat  and  fry  to  a 
golden-brown  color.  If  desired,  sub- 
stitute clam  liquor  for  the  milk.  Serve 
on  a  folded  napkin  or  on  fringed 
paper. 

Boston  Bro7V?ibread. 

Sift  together  one  cup,  each,  of  yel- 
low cornmeal,  rye  meal,  and  entire- 
wheat  flour ;  add  three-fourths  a  cup 
of  molasses,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  and  one  pint  of 
thick  sour  milk;  mix  thoroughly  and 
steam  in  a  mould  or  in  buttered  baking- 
powder  boxes.  Four  pound-size  boxes 
will  be  required. 


Query  360.—  ^.   W.  T.,  Bloomjield, 
N.  J. :    '^Eecipe  for  jelly  sauce.      Why 
do  cakes  that  contain  no  whites  of  eggs 
so  often  fall  in  the  centre  V^ 
Why  Certain  Cakes  Fall  in  the  Centre. 

Try  baking  the  cake  in  a  tube  pan. 
If  that  does  not  prove  a  remedy,  add 
a  little  more  flour.  Perhaps  the  fact 
that  the  cell  walls  in  the  yolk  of  an 
■egg  are  not  so  strong  as  those  in  the 
white  may  have  something  to  do  with 
it.     And  yet  an   angel  cake   is   likely 


to  turn  out  much  more  successfully 
when  baked  in  a  tube  pan.  Undoubt- 
edly all  very  delicate  cakes  will  be 
lighter  throughout  if  baked  in  small 
tins  or  tube  pans.  A  recipe  for  jelly 
sauce  is  given  in  answer  to  Query  355. 


Query  361.  — Mrs.  f.  E.  R.,   New 
York  City  :  '-'■Recipe  for  stuffed  eggs. ''^ 
Stuffed  Eggs. 

Cut  hard  -  boiled  eggs  in  halves, 
lengthwise,  remove  the  yolks,  and  put 
the  whites  aside  in  pairs  so  they  may 
be  fitted  together  again.  Mash  the 
yolks,  add  half  the  quantity  of  chicken, 
ham,  tongue,  or  sardines,  pounded 
smooth,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pap- 
rica,  mustard,  and  lemon  juice  ;  add  a 
little  creamed  butter  and  fill  the  whites 
with  the  mixture;  press  the  respective 
halves  together,  egg  and  bread-crumb, 
and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Drain  on  soft 
paper.  Serve  hot  with  tomato  or  bech- 
amel sauce.  Or  half  cover  with  tomato 
sauce,  sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs, 
and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are  browned. 


Query  362. —  Mrs.  f.  G.  B.,  Trefi- 
to?i,  N.f.:  ^^In  steami7ig  broiimbread, 
when  the  water  has  boiled  away  can  you 
replenish  it  without  making  the  bj-ead 
'heavy?" 

Steaming  Brownbread. 

As  the  water  boils  away  add  boiling 
water,  and  no  ill  effects  will  result. 

Query  363.— J/ri\  G.  T.  S..  Hot 
Springs^  So.  Dak.:  ^'-Recipe for  sweet 
pickles ;  the  simpler  the  7'ecipe  the  better. ^^ 
Sweet  Pickled  Pears. 

Pare  seven  pounds  of  pears  without 
removing  the  stems.  To  avoid  discol- 
oring, let  them  stand  in  cold  water  until 
all  are  ready.  Make  a  syrup  of  three 
pounds  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  vinegar, 


42 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


and  half  a  cup  of  whole  mixed  spices, 
or  use  simply  cinnamon  and  cloves ; 
add  the  pears  and  cook  until  tender. 
Pack  in  jars,  reduce  the  syrup  by  boil- 
ing, and  pour  over  the  fruit  in  the  jars; 
fill  and  cover  the  jars  as  in  canning. 
Prepare  peaches,  plums,  ripe  cucum- 
bers, ripe  muskmelon  rind,  and  green 
tomatoes  in  the  same  manner.  Rub 
the  peaches  to  remove  the  down,  or 
pare  them  ;  prick  the  skins  of  the  plums 
in  several  places ;  let  the  sliced  toma- 
toes, cucumbers,  and  melon  rind,  pre- 
pared for  cooking,  stand  over  night  in 
salted  water  (a  tablespoonful  of  salt  to 
a  quart  of  water).  If  too  salt  scald 
before  cooking  in  the  syrup. 


the  fruit  in  the  jars.  If  desired,  fresh 
slices  of  lemon  may  be  added  near  the 
end  of  the  cooking,  as  they  look  well 
in  the  preserve. 


Query  364.  — Mrs.  A.  A.  T.,  J^eve?'e, 
Mass. :  ^^ Recipe  for  pumpkin  preserve. 
The  pumpkin  is  cut  i?i  small  squares., 
and  cooked  u?itil  vei-y  tender.  It  has  a 
sweety  thick  syrup.''' 

Pu77ipkin  Preserve. 

Select  a  small  variety  known  as 
"  sweet  pumpkins."  Remove  the  rind 
and  seeds  and  cut  in  inch  cubes. 
Steam,  or  cook  in  water  until  tender 
but  unbroken ;  drain  carefully ;  weigh, 
and  for  each  pound  of  pumpkin  use  a 
pound  of  sugar,  two  lemons,  and  two 
ounces  of  ginger  root  (green,  if  pos- 
sible). Tie  the  ginger  in  a  bag,  re- 
move the  yellow  skin  from  the  lemons, 
discard  the  white  beneath,  cut  the  pulp 
in  slices,  and  remove  all  the  seeds. 
Cook  the  ginger,  yellow  skin  and  slices 
of  lemon  in  water  (a  quart  or  more) 
until  strongly  flavored;  add  the  sugar 
and  boil  to  a  syrup  (water  enough 
should  be  used  so  that  the  syrup  will 
just  cover  the  pumpkin);  put  in  the 
pumpkin,  and  boil  slowly  until  trans- 
parent, then  store  in  jars,  reduce  the 
syrup  until  very  thick,  and  pour  over 


Query  365. —  Mrs.  J.  R.  C,  Gas- 
tonville,  Pa.:  '•'■  Recipes  for  chicken  pie, 
hrownbread  with  raisins.,  sugar.,  and 
yeast.,  and  a  beef  puddijig  served  at  the 
'  Chesh i7'e  Cheese., '  Fleet  Street.,  Londo?i . ' ' 
Chicken   Pie. 

Cut  two  chickens  or  one  fowl  into 
pieces  as  for  serving;  cover  with  boil- 
ing water  and  let  simmer  until  tender. 
.Season  with  salt  and  pepper  when  half 
cooked.  Line  a  three  or  four  quart  pan 
with  a  rich  biscuit  dough,  having  the 
dough  about  an  inch  thick ;  put  in  the 
pieces  of  chicken,  adding  a  few  bits  of 
butter,  as  also  a  part  of  the  chicken 
liquor;  wet  the  top  edge  of  the  crust, 
and  fit  on  a  cover  of  dough,  with 
opening  in  the  centre.  Bake  about 
forty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven,  adding, 
as  needed,  chicken  liquor  through  the 
opening  in  the  top. 

Biscuit  Crust. 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  sifted  flour, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  four 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder; 
work  in  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
shortening;. when  fine  and  evenly  dis- 
tributed wet  with  about  a  cup  of  milk 
to  a  dough  ;  toss  on  to  a  floured  board, 
knead  delicately,  and  roll  out  to  the 
thickness  required.  This  recipe  needs 
be  doubled  at  least  once ;  probably 
five  cups  of  flour,  and  other  ingredients 
accordingly,  would  be  nearer  the  requi- 
site amount.  The  chicken  should  be 
cooled  before  using. 

Pastry  Crust  for  Chicken  Pie. 

If  puff  or  plain  paste  is  to  be  used 
for  the  crust,  do  not  line  the  baking- 
dish.     Put  in  the  chicken  with  liquor, 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


43 


season,  cover  with  the  crust,  and  bake 
until  the  crust  is  done. 

Raisin  Brownbread  with  Yeast. 
Stir  one  cup  and  a  half  of  boiling 
water  into  one  pint  of  yellow  corn- 
meal;  let  stand  ten  minutes,  "then  add 
one  cup  of  cold  water  (the  full  cup 
may  not  be  needed),  a  yeastcake  dis- 
solved in  half  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  cup  of 
sugar,  and  one  pint  of  rye  meal ;  beat 
well,  adding  a  cup  of  raisins,  and  set 
to  rise;  when  light  beat  again  and 
turn  into  a  buttered  tin ;  when  light 
bake  about  two  hours.  We  have  been 
unable  to  secure  the  English  recipe. 


Query  366. —  Mrs.  M.  E.  S.,  Brook- 
lyn^ N.  v.:  ^'' Recipe  for  popovers,  other 
than  the  one  giveti  in  answer  to  Query 
J  04.  I  have  seen  more  successful  ones 
than  lean  make  with  the  recipe  as  given.^^ 
Fopovers. 

In  making  popovers  much  depends 
upon  the  oven,  which  should  be  very 
hot.  If  the  batter  be  not  perfectly 
baked,  the  popover  will  shrink  when 
taken  from  the  oven,  and  also  be 
doughy  inside.  The  recipe  given  is 
the  usual  formula.  There  are  vari- 
ations, some  of  which  may  give  results 
more  satisfactory,  namely :  Put  all  the 
ingredients  together  into  a  bowl  and 
beat  until  very  light.  Put  a  half-tea- 
spoonful  of  butter  into  each  cup  before 
pouring  in  the  batter.  Increase  the 
number  of  eggs.  Add  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  soda  to  the  flour.  It 
has  also  been  suggested  to  us  by  a 
subscriber  in  Davenport,  la.,  that  chou 
paste,  or  cream-cake  mixture,  baked  in 
hot  cups,  might  produce  very  fine  pop- 
overs. 


Batter  Puddifig. 
Mix  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour  with 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  milk  and  stir  into 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  scalded  milk ; 
stir,  and  cook  until  smooth;  add  two 
tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and  su- 
gar, and  when  hot  stir  into  the  beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs ;  then  add  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Bake 
in  a  buttered  pudding-dish,  standing  in 
hot  water,  about  thirty  minutes.  Serve 
with  wine  or  hard  sauce,  or  with 

STRAWBERRY    SAUCE. 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream ; 
add  one  cup  of  sugar  gradually,  and 
then  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg  very 
gradually,  and  one  cup  of  strawberries, 
mashed.  If  the  white  of  egg  and  straw- 
berries are  not  added  very  gradually, 
the  sauce  will  present  a  curdled  ap- 
pearance. It  should  be  very  light  and 
fluffy. 


Query  367.  —  K.  S.  W.,    Wash ing- 
ton,  D.  C:  ^^  Recipe  for  batter  puddifig.''^ 


Query  368.  —  Miss  I.  F.,  Williams- 
town,  Mass. :  '•''In  serving  a  me7iu  of 
two  courses  at  Sunday-night  tea,  should 
the  hot  dish  a?td  salad  be  served  on  the 
same  or  separate  plates  ?  Kindly  give  a 
hot  dish  that  could  be  served  front  a 
silver  bakitig-dish.  Would  cream-cheese 
salad  be  appropriate,  also  chocolate  or 
cocoa,  preceded  by  little  cakes  and  fruit, 
if  the  guests  had  dined  at  midday  ?  " 
Sunday-Night  Tea. 
Shrimps,  lobster,  fish,  chicken,  or  veal, 
in  cream  or  bechamel  sauce,  covered 
with  buttered  crumbs,  browned,  may 
be  served  from  the  baking-dish ;  a  let- 
tuce or  cress  salad,  with  French  dress- 
ing, might  follow,  then  the  little  cakes, 
fruit  and  tea,  or  cakes  and  cocoa. 
Chocolate  and  cocoa  are  food  as  well 
as  drink,  and,  when  served  alone  with 
rolls  or  cakes,  afford  quite  a  substan- 
tial repast.  We  omit  the  cream  cheese 
from    the    salad  for  the  same  reason. 


44 


THE   BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZIXE. 


The  menu  is  rather  too  heavy  after  a 
heart}-  dinner.  It  is  the  third  meal 
that  kills. 


Query  369.  —  Mrs.  A.^  Buffalo,  K. 
Y. :  "  Kindly  give  the  nattu  of  a  good 
oven  thermonuter :  also  recipes  for  a 
temperance  drink  made  of  fruit :  dried 
cherries :  and  pickled  blackberries. ' ' 
Oven  Thennometer. 

D.  G.  Cooper,  Pequabuck.  Conn., 
makes  a  good  oven  thermometer  that 
may  be  used  with  almost  any  stove  that 
is  not  supplied  with  a  thermometer. 
No  doubt  there  are  other  thermometers 
just  as  reliable,  but  at  this  writing  we 
cannot  give  addresses. 

Fruit  Pu?ich. 

Grate  a  pineapple  after  removing  the 
shell  and  '•  eyes " :  add  a  quart  of 
water  and  cook  fifteen  minutes,  then 
strain  through  a  cheese-cloth,  pressing 
out  all  of  the  juice;  add  another  quart 
of  water  and  a  quart  of  sugar  and  boil 
ten  minutes :  add  one  cup  of  freshly 
made  tea  and.  when  cold,  the  juice  of 
six  oranges,  six  lemons,  a  pint  of  straw- 
berrj'  or  grape  juice,  and  about  live 
quarts  of  cold  water.  Add  more  water 
or  more  sugar,  or,  better  still,  syrup, 
according  to  individual  taste.  Straw- 
berries, mint  leaves,  or  slices  of  banana 
may  be  added  to  the  bowl  with  a  piece 
of  ice  a  short  time  before  serving. 
Straivberry  Le??wnade. 

Boil  one  quart  of  water  and  one  pint 
of  sugar  nfteen  minutes  ;  cool  and  add 
one  pint  of  strawbern.*  juice,  the  juice 
of  three  lemons,  and  one  pint  or  more, 
as  desired,  of  iced  water. 

Dried  Cherries. 

Stone  and  weigh  the  cherries,  ar- 
range in  earthen  dishes  in  alternate 
layers,  cherries  and  sugar,  using  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit ; 


let  them  stand  over  night,  then  boil 
about  fifteen  minutes,  skimming  care- 
fully. Strain  out  the  cherries  and 
spread  them  on  plates  to  dr}^  in  the 
sun  or  the  warming-oven,  turning  fre- 
quently. When  well  dried,  heat  in  the 
oven,  stirring  often  until  ver}^  hot. 
Store  in  paper  sacks  or  in  fruit  jars, 
closely  secured  from  the  air  and  light. 
Put  the  syrup,  while  it  is  hot.  in  fruit 
jars,  as  in  canning. 

Pickled  Blackberries. 
Make  a  syrup  of  three  pounds  of 
sugar  and  one  pint  of  vinegar :  skim, 
and  add  five  pounds  of  blackberries ; 
let  simmer  until  quite  thick.  When 
nearly  cooked,  add  cinnamon  and 
cloves  to  suit  the  taste. 


Query  370.  — A  manfi-oin  Dedham^ 
Mass.,  li' rites  :  •'  Why  ca?inot you  ^  start 
a  boovi '  for  dry  toast  '/  Afi  aunt  brought 
the  secret  with  her  fro  ?n  New  Hampshire^ 
but  I  regret  to  say  that  it  died  with  her, 
as  far  as  her  relatives  are  concerned. 
Tlie  bread  is  usually  cut  too  thick,  and 
ifistead  of  being  toasted  is  slowly  wa?'med 
through,  with  only  a  suspicion  of  brown. 
Properly  prepared,  it  should  be  toasted 
71' h He  you  wait.''' 

Dry  Toast. 

We  should,  indeed,  be  glad  to  "  start 
a  boom  "'  for  dry  toast,  for  the  sake  of 
the  world  in  general,  as  well  as  for  this 
man  in  particular.  He  is  original,  at 
least,  for  he  distinctly  says,  -'the  kind 
my  aunt  used  to  make."  and  does  not 
even  insinuate  that  his  mother  ever 
made  toast.  But.  although  our  querist 
is  a  ??iaf2.  we  must  affirm  that  he  is 
mistaken  in  one  particular.  He  says 
the  bread  is  slowly  warmed  through, 
as  though  that  were  an  offence.  This 
is  certainly  contrar}*  to  our  experience. 
Toast  would  not  be  so  bad  if  it  7ie?'e 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


45 


slowly  heated;  generally,  it  is  put  di- 
rectly over  a  fierce  flame  and  changed 
to  carbon  on  the  outside  before  the 
heat  has  begun  to  penetrate  the  slice. 
When  toast  is  properly  made,  the 
moisture  is  slowly  dried  out,  and  then 
colored  on  the  outside  a  golden  brown. 
This  requires  constant  attention ;  the 
bread  needs  be  turned  constantly,  lest 
it  brown  before  the  drying  out  is  com- 
pleted. This  process  changes  the 
starch  to  dextrose,  and  thus  continues, 
outside  the  stomach,  the  digestion  of 
the  starch,  begun  in  the  first  cooking 
of  the  bread.  A  bed  of  coals,  a  hinged 
toaster,  and  a  slice  of  stale  bread  would 
seem  to  be  the  sine  qua  non  for  this 
operation ;  but  a  well-toasted  slice  of 
bread  is  not  the  impossibility  that  the 
results  would  presuppose  when  gas  and 
oil  stoves  are  used  for  the  purpose. 
The  toaster  needs  be  held  slightly 
above  the  hot  plate  set  over  the  flame, 
or  else  under  the  flame,  in  the  lower 
oven. 


Query  3  7  i  .  —  J/rj.  E.  L.  C.  JV., 
Si.  Faid.^  Minn. :  "  Hoiu  do  you  make 
bouillon,  to  be  served  cold  during  the 
summer  months  ?  " 

Bouillon  Served  Cold. 

See  recipe  for  bouillon  in  answer  to 
Query  359.  Use  that  recipe,  omitting 
the  bone,  however,  as  a  soup,  to  be 
served  cold,  should  have  no  tendency 
to  jelly.  Cook  at  a  temperature  below 
the  boiling-point,  after  it  has  once 
reached  that  point,  to  avoid  dissolving 
the  gelatine  in  the  tissues  of  the  meat. 
Diminish  the  quantity  of  water  one 
pint.  We  do  not  understand  the  allu- 
sion to  oil  made  in  connection  with  the 
request  for  this  recipe. 


Query  372. —  E.  H.  J/.,  Portland, 
Ale.:    ^'-  Recipes  for  creme-de-me7ithe  ice 


and  meats  cooked  en  casserole.  Is  the 
large  casserole  ever  used  for  cooki/ig  any- 
thing but  meats  ?  " 

Creme-de-Menthc  Ice. 

Boil  four  cups  of  water  and  one  cup 
of  sugar  twenty  minutes ;  let  cool,  add 
one-third  a  cup  of  creme-de-menthe 
cordial,  tint  a  delicate  leaf- green, 
strain,  and  freeze  as  any  ice.  Serve  in 
tiny  glasses.  — Miss  Farmer. 

Beefsteak  en   Casserole. 

Saute  five  or  six  onions,  in  slices,  in 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
until  they  are  tinted  yellow.  Put  the 
onions  into  a  casserole,  rinse  out  the 
frying-pan  with  hot  water,  add,  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Heat 
the  frying-pan  very  hot,  rub  it  over 
with  beef  fat,  and  in  it  sear  two  pounds 
of  steak  from  the  top  of  the  round, 
cut  in  pieces  for  serving,  first  on  one 
side  and  then  on  the  other,  keeping 
the  pan  very,  hot ;  put  in  the  casse- 
role with  a  sprig  of  parsley,  add  hot 
water  to  cover  the  onions;  cover,  and 
let  cook  in  a  slow  oven  about  two 
hours,  or  until  tender.  About  fifteen 
minutes  before  serving,  skim  off  fat 
that  has  cooked  from  the  meat,  add 
about  two  dozen  potato  balls  (slices 
will  do)  that  have  been  parboiled  five 
minutes,  and  additional  seasoning  if 
needed.  Serve  from  the  casserole. 
There  should  not  be  a  large  quantity 
of  gravy. 

Recipes  for  chicken,  pigeons,  and 
squabs  en  casserole  were  given  in  the 
December  -  January  number.  Sweet- 
breads may  be  cooked  by  any  of  these 
recipes.  Curried  chicken  is  particu- 
larly good  served  from  a  casserole. 

While  the  casserole  is  designed  for 
articles  that  require  long,  slow  cooking, 
there  is  no  reason  why  macaroni, 
onions,  or  cauliflower  in  cream  sauce, 
or    almost    anything    desirable,    might 


46 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


not  be  cooked  and  served  from  it  after 
the  first  preliminary  cooking  has  been 
done. 


Query  373. —  A.  L.  D.,  South  Bos- 
ton, Mass. :  "  Kindly  give  recipes  for 
syrups  for  soda  water ;  also  ftame  a  few 
articles  of  food  that  are  suitable  for  a 
public  speaker  after  an  evening's  lectu?'e.^^ 
Fruit  Syrups. 

Heat  and  strain  the  fruit — strawber- 
ries, raspberries,  currants, grapes,  etc. — 
as  in  making  jelly.  To  each  pint  of 
juice  add  a  pint  of  sugar  and  the  juice 
of  one  or  two  lemons ;  let  boil  five  or 
six  minutes,  skimming  carefully,  and 
store  in  sterilized  jars  as  in  canning. 
Food  for  Public  Speaker. 

"  What's  one  man's  poison,  signor, 
Is  another  man's  meat  or  drink." 
So  much  depends  upon  what  has 
been  eaten  during  the  day,  how  much 
time  is  to  elapse  before  sleeping,  and 
other  circumstances,  that  only  the  most 
general  hints  can  be  given  in  reply  to 
this  query.  Milk,  heated  to  about  j  60°' 
Fahr.,  and  taken  slowly  from  a  spoon ; 
an  egg  beaten  and  carefully  added  to  a 
cup  of  hot  cereal  coffee,  with  a  piece 
of  buttered  rusk  or  breadsticks ;  a  cup 
of  hot  bouillon  or  consomme,  with 
stale  bread ;  raw  oysters,  or  an  oyster 
stew,  —  all  are  appropriate.  Where 
liquid  food  is  not  relished,  two  chops, 
or  a  bit  of  sirloin,  carefully  broiled, 
with  a  baked  potato,  cannot  be  im- 
proved upon. 


Query  374. —  S.  S.,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. : 
^''Kindly  criticise  our  breakfast  menu, 
which  never  vai'ies.  (Family  of  two,  7iot 
engaged  in  active  labor.)  Rolled  oats, 
bread,  cookies,  strong  coffee  with  crea7n.^^ 
Bi'eakfast  Menu. 

We  cannot  criticise  this  menu  intel- 


ligently without  knowing  the  menus  for 
the  rest  of  the  day,  and  the  quantity 
of  each  article  actually  eaten.  As  it 
is,  alone,  we  think  it  deficient  in  pro- 
teid ;  in  other  words,  it  provides  starch 
and  sugar  in  excess. 


Query  375. —  Mrs.  E.  W.  S.,  Kan- 
sas City,  Mo. :  "  Suggest  so?ne  dishes 
suitable  for  a  '  box  lunch,^  so  that  o?ie 
may  secu?'e  variety.''^ 

Dishes  for  a  Box  Luncheon. 

Cup  of  cold  baked  beans,  with  to- 
mato catsup,  new  beans  with  French 
dressing,  other  cold  cooked  vegetables 
—  potatoes,  string  beans,  cauliflower, 
asparagus,  or  spinach  —  may  be  mixed 
with  French  dressing  and  carried  in 
an  earthen  cup  covered  with  parafline 
paper.  Any  of  the  above  will  be 
found  appetizing  with  a  bread  -  and  - 
butter  sandwich,  and  an  ^gg  that  has 
been  cooked  twenty  minutes  in  water 
below  the  boiling-point.  Baked  cup 
custard,  baked  tapioca  custard,  korn- 
let  custard,  tomato  custard,  egg  junket, 
cornstarch,  blanc  -  mange,  with  fruit 
jelly,  and  sliced  pineapple,  sugared, 
with  cold  meats  sliced  thin,  afford  quite 
a  varied  list  from  which  to  choose. 


Query  376.  — Mrs.  F.  E.  A.,  Den- 
ver, Col. :  "  What  gauffre  iron  do  you 
consider  the  best  1  Recipes  for  gauffres 
that  are  soft  and  creamy  inside  ;  cocoanut 
cones :  cherry  water  ice  and  cherry  mousse 
made  from  cherries  put  up  pound  for 
pound,  and  from  fresh  cherries.  Also 
kindly  tell  how  the  French  cook  spinach.''^ 
Gauffre  Irons. 

The  English  and  French  gauffre 
irons  are  heavy  to  handle  ;  they  re- 
semble a  pair  of  tongs  somewhat  and 
cost  about  $2.50  each.  Gauffre  irons 
are  made,  in  this  country,  at  Erie,  Pa., 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


47 


or  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  and  cost  $i.io  at 
retail.  These  are  made  on  the  same 
plan  as  the  waffle  iron  and  appear  less 
awkward  to  handle  than  the  imported 
irons.  Not  more  than  two  cakes  can 
be  baked  at  once.  The  instant  they 
are  baked  and  removed  from  the  iron, 
they  are  rolled  about  a  wooden  pin. 
When  cold  and  ready  to  serve  the 
centre  is  filled  with  whipped  cream. 
With  the  exception  of  the  figures  upon 
the  outside,  similar  cakes  may  be 
baked  upon  an  inverted  tin ;  the  mix- 
ture is  made  stiff  enough  to  spread 
upon  the  buttered  tin.  See  almond 
wafers,  page  308,  preceding  number. 
Cocoamit  Cones. 

Cook  a  pound  of  fresh  cocoanut, 
grated,  and  three-fourths  a  pound  of 
sugar  in  a  double  boiler,  until  the  mix- 
ture is  rather  stiff  and  clings  to  the 
spoon.  Add  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  and  cook  until  well  mixed 
and  sticky  to  the  touch.  Spread  in  a 
pan  rinsed  with  cold  water,  cover  with 
a  wet  paper,  and  chill  on  ice.  Dip  the 
hands  in  cold  water  and  shape  into 
balls.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  slow 
oven  on  a  waxed  baking-sheet. 
Cherry  Mousse  with  Presej-^'ed  Cherries. 

Drain  the  cherries  from  the  syrup; 
cook  a  cup  of  the  syrup  until  it 
"threads,"  then  beat  gradually  into 
the  stiffly-beaten  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beating  constantly.  Set  the  dish  in 
ice  water  and  beat  occasionally  until 
very  cold ;  add  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  a  cup  of  the  cherries  cut  in 
halves,  then  fold  in  a  pint  of  cream 
beaten  solid.  Turn  into  a  chilled 
mould  and  let  stand  two  or  more  hours 
packed  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt. 
When  the  mousse  is  turned  from  the 
mould,  surround  with  cherries  and 
syrup. 


With  fresh  cherries,  cook  a  cup  of 
cherries,  stoned,  with  a  cup  of  sugar 
and  half  a  cup  of  cherry  juice  or  water, 
until  the  cherries  are  tender,  then  skim 
out  the  cherries  and  cook  the  syrup 
as  before. 

Cherry  Water  Ice. 

Dilute  the  syrup  with  water,  until  it 
is  sweet  as  desired ;  add  the  juice  of 
a  lemon  to  each  pint  of  liquid ;  when 
half  frozen,  stir  in  the  cherries  cut  in 
halves.  A  recipe  with  fresh  cherries  is 
given  on  page  6. 

French  Method  of  Cooking  Spinach. 

The  French  stew  spinach  in  a  little 
milk  or  stock,  or  in  a  little  water  to 
which  a  piece  of  butter  has  been  added. 
The  broth  is  served  with  the  spinach. 
It  is  needless  to  add  that  spinach  needs 
be  thoroughly  washed. 


Query  377.  — Mrs.  G.  F.  P.,  Arling- 
ton,  Mass. :  "  Ki?idly  give  recipes  for 
preserving  rhubarb  and  strawberries, 
and  for  making  strawberry  jam  as  it  is 
done  if  I  FnglandJ^ 

Strawberry  fam. 

Allow  three-fourth  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  pound  of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit 
into  the  preserving-pan  and  on  the  hot 
plate,  sprinkle  over  a  little  sugar.  As 
the  fruit  juices  keep  adding  sugar,  and, 
when  it  is  all  dissolved,  bring  to  the 
boil,  and  boil  quickly  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  and  skim- 
med. Stir  carefully,  not  to  break  the 
strawberries.  If  it  does  not  "  set "  at 
the  end  of  twenty  minutes,  cook  longer. 
—  Mary  Harrison. 

To  Preserve  Strawberries  Whole. 

Select  and  set  aside  the  largest 
and  most  perfect  berries.  Mash  the 
others  and  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
without  water,  then  strain  through  a 
jelly  bag.     Allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to 


4S 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


a  quart  of  strawberry  juice.  Make 
a  syrup  with  a  pint  of  water  to  each 
two  pounds  of  sugar,  and  skim  thor- 
oughly. When  the  scum  ceases  to  rise, 
pour  in  the  juice  of  the  berries  and 
boil  from  five  to  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  the  syrup  will  hang  in  drops  from 
the  spoon.  Pour  the  syrup  into  glass 
jars,  and,  lifting  the  whole  berries  with 
a  spoon,  put  in  as  many  as  the  S}Tup 
will  cover  \vithout  crowding.  When 
perfectly  cold,  cover  with  paraffine  or 
paper  dipped  in  brandy. — New  Cyclo- 
pedia of  Cookery. 

Preser7'ed  Rhubarb. 

To  each  pound  of  rhubarb  allow 
three-fourths  a  pound  of  sugar.  Make 
a  syrup  with  the  sugar  and  enough 
water  to  keep  from  burning ;  add  the 
rhubarb  and  cook  until  tender,  keeping 
the  pieces  as  whole  as  possible  ;  skim 
out  and  boil  the  syrup  until  thick,  re- 
heat the  rhubarb  and  store  in  jars. 

At  the  present  time  these  rich  pre- 
serves are  less  often  made  than  for- 
merly. Rhubarb  cut  the  height  of  the 
jars  is  packed  in  cans.  The  can  tilled 
with  cold  water  is  set  into  a  boiler  on  a 
shelf,  the  can  cover  is  loosely  adjusted, 
and  the  cover  of  the  boiler  is  put 
in  place :  cold  water  is  now  poured 
around  the  jars  and  the  rhubarb  cooked 
half  an  hour  after  boiling  begins.  Then 
the  covers  are  set  in  place. 


Query  37S.— J/;-.\   C    F.  S.,    JVil- 
liamsto7i'n,   Mass. :     '^Recipes  for    chili 
sauce  and  spiced  curra?its.^' 
Chili  Sauce. 

Remove  the  skins  from  one  hundred 
ripe  tomatoes  ;  add  twent}'  -  four  pep- 
pers chopped  tine,  eighteen  large  white 
onions    chopped    line,    one    pound    of 


brown  sugar,  nine  kitchenspoonfuls  of 
salt,  eighteen  level  teaspoonfuls.  each, 
of  allspice,  ginger,  and  cloves,  and  one 
gallon  of  vinegar;  boil  gently,  stirring 
often,  one  hour.  Strain,  and  boil 
again,  if  not  of  sufficient  consistency. 
Set  aside  in  closely  corked  bottles,  or 
in  fruit  jars  tightly  closed.  —  Chef  Sil- 
lerbrand.     (See  also  page  37.) 


Query  379.— J//-.>\  E.  S.  P.,  Fort- 
land^  Me.:  "■  Recipe  for  E?iglish  beef 
soup,  as  it  is  served  at  the  South  Termi- 
ticil  Station,  Boston.  The  soup  is  rich 
and  thick^  and  contains  s?nall  pieces  of 
beef,  barley^  etc.^' 

English  Beef  Soup. 

The  chefs  at  this  restaurant  are 
Italians,  from  which  race  the  French 
learned  cookery.  Joseph  Batta.  the 
chef  w^ho  superintends  the  preparation 
of  the  soups  at  this  restaurant,  has  been 
noted  for  years  for  his  skill  in  this 
branch  of  cookery,  both  in  Italy  and 
in  tliis  country.  Mr.  Batta  has  kindly 
given  us  his  formula  for  the  soup,  but, 
like  all  foreign  chefs,  he  seasons  by 
taste,  and  it  may  require  many  trials 
before  the  proportions  of  the  different 
tiavoring  ingredients  can  be  adjusted 
to  secure  the  indescribably  agreeable 
combination  of  this  particular  English 
beef  soup. 

Cut  tender  beef  into  small  squares, 
and  braise,  until  tender,  with  onions, 
celery,  and  leeks,  and  a  little  stock ; 
thicken  with  flour,  and  add  to  it  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  strong  beef  stock. 
To  complete,  add  cooked  barley  and 
carrot,  the  carrot  cut  in  small  lozenze- 
shaped  pieces.  Flavor  to  taste  with 
sherry  wine,  tomato  catsup,  and  Wor- 
cestershire sauce.  /.  J/.  H. 


c    c 


O  •£ 


-H  .fe 


en     ^ 
.-     (u 


THE 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  V. 


AUGUST  AND  SEPTEMBER,   1900. 


No.  2, 


THE  REFRIGERATOR  THAT  FAILED,  AND  WHY. 

By  Mrs.  H.  M.  Plunkett. 


A  GENTLEMAN  in  Western  Massa- 
chusetts, who  had  a  large  family,  and 
was  accustomed  to  provide  on  a  liberal 
scale,  and  who  was,  withal,  fond  of 
well  "  ripened  "  meats,  built  a  refriger- 
ator, modelled,  on  a  small  scale,  after 
the  "  cold  storage  "  of  a  large  meat 
dealer's  establishment;  so  it  was  called 
an  ice-room.  At  one  end  was  a  large 
apartment  for  the  ice.  This,  of  course, 
had  free  communication  with  the  resi- 
due, which  was  fitted  with  shelves  on 
the  sides  for  pans,  bottles,  etc.,  and  with 
hooks  overhead.  At  first  all  his  epi- 
curean dreams  seemed  in  the  way  of 
realization ;  but  it  was  not  long  before 
the  meat,  if  kept  over  a  day  or  two, 
had  a  distinctly  "tainted"  flavor,  and 
the  milk  soured  as  rapidly  as  it  had 
done  on  the  open  pantry  shelves. 

What  was  the  matter  ?  Long  search- 
ing failed  to  reveal  it,  till  a  treatise  on 
bacteriology  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
mistress  of  the  mansion.  She  studied 
that,  and  then  studied  her  ice-room. 
The  shelves  had  been  constructed  with 
open  spaces  left  between  individual 
slats,  to  promote  the  circulation  of 
cold  air,  but  the  last  slat  at  the  back 
had  been  placed  close  to  the  wall;  and 


sometimes  a  steak,  or  chops,  on  a  plat- 
ter, would  shed  a  trifle  of  Uquid  that 
would  insinuate  itself  behind  this  last 
slat,  and  doubtless  an  occasional  drop 
of  milk  secreted  itself  there  also.  Now 
and  then  a  drop  or  two  of  blood  would 
trickle  from  the  large  joints  of  beef, 
or  the  quarters  of  lamb,  hung  on  the 
hooks;  and,  though  the  floor  was  tight 
when  laid,  in  time  cracks  appeared, 
which,  though  very  small,  were  still 
wide  enough  to  accommodate  many 
drops  of  putrescible  fluid.  The  lady's 
Goddess  of  the  Kitchen  was  a  perfect 
demon  of  neatness,  who  opined  that  a 
sufficient  amount  of  sapolio  and  elbow 
grease  would  remedy  any  household 
defect;  and  she  scrubbed  those  shelves 
and  that  floor  with  a  zeal  and  diligence 
only  equalled  by  the  lack  of  intelli- 
gence she  displayed.  This  was  in  the 
early  days  of  bacteriology,  before  the 
true  methods  of  conquering  microbes 
had  been  discovered.  Though  hot 
water  was  poured  over  the  shelves, — 
as  the  mistress  recalled  that  "scald- 
ing" was  the  sheet-anchor  of  the  old- 
fashioned  dairies  before  the  day  of 
glass  pans,  or  those  made  of  earthen- 
ware,   had    arrived, —  the    hot    water 


52 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


failed ;  for  it  was  not  hot  enough  when 
it  got  back  to  the  slat  and  the  wall,  and 
there  is  a  great  power  in  the  pores  of 
wood  to  protect  and  aid  in  perpetuat- 
ing microbes.  But,  to  complete  a  long 
story,  let  it  be  said  that  the  repeated 
scrubbings  failed  to  render  the  tainting 
agent  powerless ;  and  eventually  the 
ice-room  was  demolished,  and  the  pro- 
prietor fell  back  on  the  (then)  most 
approved  type  of  portable  refrigera- 
tor. 

How  is  this  failure  to  be  explained  ? 
In  one  word,  —  bacteria.  Putrefactive 
bacteria  were  the  unconquerable  agents 
of  the  trouble  ;  for  the  hot  water  was 
less  than  at  the  temperature  of  212° 
when  it  reached  the  bacteria  lodged 
in  the  crevices,  and  there  are  some 
kinds  of  bacteria  that  resist  a  tempera- 
ture of  242°.  And  these  tiny  creatures 
multiply  so  rapidly  that  if  a  vat  with 
a  surface  of  a  square  yard,  and  con- 
taining a  putrescible  liquid,  is  inocu- 
lated with  an  invisible  germ  or  microbe, 
it  will  be  covered  in  twenty- four  hours 
with  a  uniform  velvety  vail;  for  the 
little  germ  divided  into  two,  then  each 
of  these  again  divided,  it  is  estimated 
that  in  twenty-four  hours  the  original 
invisible  bacteria  would  have  16,500,- 
000  descendants ;  and,  as  most  of  the 
bacteria  produce  spores,  or  seeds,  that 
resist  the  action  of  boiling  water  for 
hours,  it  is  not  hard  to  see  how  putre- 
factive bacteria  continued  to  exist,  and 
resumed  their  depredations  whenever 
a  new  joint  was  introduced  to  the  ice- 
room. 

The  bacteria  that  produce  the  sour- 
ing of  milk  are  no  less  industrious  and 
no  less  ubiquitous.  One  should  read 
Professor  Conn's  "  Story  of  Germ 
Life"  to  learn  the  difficulty  attending 
the  attempt  to  obtain  perfectly  germ- 


free  milk  for  experiments;  and  those 
only  who  have  made  the  experiments 
realize  how  very  difficult  it  is  to  obtain 
*'  sterile  "  materials  to  work  with  in  the 
laboratory. 

Mr.  Tyndall  had  filled  several  flasks 
with  a  meat  infusion,  and  boiled  them 
till  he  was  sure  all  organic  life  was 
extinct;  the  necks  of  the  flasks  were 
hermetically  sealed  while  boiling,  and 
all  were  hung  up  carefully  and  se- 
curely. Presently  one  of  the  flasks  be- 
came cloudy,  and  showed  signs  of  bac- 
terial life.  Microscopical  examination 
showed  a  hairlike  crack  in  the  neck 
of  the  tube,  one  or  more  of  the  omni- 
present microbes  of  the  atmosphere 
had  found  entrance  through  the  open- 
ing, but  all  the  other  tubes  remained 
perfectly  transparent  for  more  than  a 
year,  when  they  were  purposely  opened 
to  show  the  effect  of  opening  them 
under  different  circumstances. 

Now,  where  is  the  practical  applica- 
tion of  the  above  to  the  daily  amelio- 
ration of  household  conditions  ?  It 
teaches  the  extreme  care  needed  in 
keeping  the  refrigerator  free  from 
germs.  There  are  ponderous  and 
costly  refrigerators  now  made,  whose 
compartments  are  of  porcelain,  or 
lined  with  glass  ;  but  the  million  will 
not  be  able  to  command  them,  and 
many  housewives  fancy  that  the  ice 
kills  germs.  Far  from  it.  There  are 
many  varieties  that  resist  a  freezing 
temperature  for  days,  and  the  lady  of 
the  household  herself  needs  to  super- 
intend the  weekly  scalding  of  her  re- 
frigerator with  a  great  deal  of  scalding 
water,  till  it  is  rid  of  every  germ,  or 
spore  of  a  germ ;  for  of  course  it  is 
indisputable  that  many  have  entered 
in  company  with  the  various  contents. 
Intelligent  action  is  what  is  wanted. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


53 


THE    PINEHURST  TEA  GARDENS    NEAR    SUMMER- 

VILLE,  S.  C. 

By  Charles  U.  Shepard. 

(  The  illustrations  in  this  paper  were  reprodticed  from  Report  6i,  on  Tea  Culture  in  South 
Carolina,  by  the  kind  permission  of  the  United  States  Departtnent  of  Agriculture.) 


The  Pinehurst  tea  estate  is  prob- 
ably the  only  place  in  the  Western 
Hemisphere  where  commercial  tea  is 
grown.  Originally  introduced  at  the 
beginning  of  the  past  century,  and  im- 
ported quite  freely  fifty  years  ago,  it 
was  well  known  that  the  tea  plant 
{Camellia  thea)  would  thrive  under  the 
local  climatic  conditions,  and  that  the 
tea  made  therefrom  possessed  excel- 
lent cup  qualities,  if  somewhat  weak, 
possibly  owing  to  faults  in  cultivation 
and  curing. 

It  was  necessary  to  conduct  ex- 
periments on  a  sufficiently  large  scale 
to  determine  whether  the  product  of 
American  tea  gardens  might  find  gen- 
eral favor  among  tea  drinkers,  and 
whether  the  margin  between  the  cost 
of  production  and  selling  price  should 
promise  an  adequate  profit  on  which 
to  base  a  remunerative  industry. 

The  Pinehurst  experiments,  begun 
ten  years  ago  on  a  few  acres,  and  by 
private  means,  have  been  gradually  ex- 
tended, until  now,  with  the  generous 
assistance  of  the  United  States  De- 
partment of  Agriculture,  and  under  the 
welcome  auspices  of  ^^the  Secretary  of 
Agriculture,  Hon.  James  Wilson,  they 
embrace  about  sixty  acres.  The  gar- 
dens contain  plants  grown  from  the 
seed  of  many  oriental  lands,  besides 
those  from  the  thoroughly  acclimated 
tea  groves,  which  sprang  from  the  seed, 
imported  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment in  the  "  fifties."  and  sown  in  the 


South  Atlantic  and  Gulf  States.  They 
were  placed  under  as  different  condi- 
tions of  location  and  soil  as  possible, 
the  prime  object  being  to  determine, 
from  many  experiments,  what  sort  of 
tea  should  prove  the  most  remunera- 
tive, and  the  most  favorable  conditions 
of  cultivation  and  manufacture. 

It  was  expected,  from  the  multiform 
character  of  the  work,  that  disappoint- 
ment and  pecuniary  loss  might  ensue 
in  many  instances;  but,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  gardens  planted  with  too 
tropical  seed,  the  results  have  been 
generally  satisfactory  ;  while  conditions 
and  methods  have  been  ascertained 
under  which  the  profitable  cultivation 
of  tea  in  the  Southern  States  may  be 
regarded  as  having  been  demonstrated. 
These  are,  fiat  and  rich  land,  with 
natural  subsoil  drainage,  and,  if  pos- 
sible, irrigation  by  gravity,  to  offset  the 
great  difference  between  the  local  rain- 
fall in  the  cropping  season  (30  inches) 
and  that  of  favored  Asiatic  countries 
(60  to  100  inches  or  more).  Under 
these  conditions,  with  an  abundant 
supply  of  cheap  labor,  and  by  adapting 
the  pruning  of  the  bushes  to  the  cli- 
matic demands,  but  especially  under  the 
beneficent  assistance  of  a  protective 
duty,  pure  commercial  tea  may  be  prof- 
itably raised  in  the  Southern  States, 
thereby  supplying  an  easy  and  health- 
ful livelihood  to  idle  thousands,  and 
imparting  a  value  to  immense  tracts 
of  now  waste  lands. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


55 


It  is  extremely  unlikely  that  the 
present  duty  (of  ten  cents  per  pound) 
on  tea  will  be  repealed,  as  every  civil- 
ized nation  imposes  from  eight  to  forty 
cents  per  pound  on  this  imported  com- 
modity, even  free-trade  Great  Britain 
charging  a  duty  of  eight  cents  per  pound 
on  the  product  of  her  own  colonies. 

The  output  of  the  Pinehurst  gardens 
has  gradually  increased  from  a  few 
hundred  pounds  per  annum  to  towards 
four  thousand  pounds ;  and  it  may 
reach  ten  thousand  pounds  within  a 
few  years.  The  demand  for  it  has 
easily  kept  pace  with  the  supply,  in 
spite  of  its  peculiar  taste.  But  with- 
out a  characteristic  flavor  American 
tea  can  have  no  special  advantage. 

The  visitor  to  Pinehurst  may  see 
thrifty  gardens  of  tea  from  many  climes, 
growing  under  many  conditions,  and 
in  some  instances,  with  the  assistance 
of  irrigation,   a   tea   factory   equipped 


with  the  requisite  apparatus  for  the 
manufacture  of  black  and  green  teas, 
embracing  the  modern  machinery  which 
has  been  substituted  for  manual  labor 
in  the  curing  of  black  tea ;  a  well- 
trained  body  of  colored  children  who 
pluck  the  tea  leaves,  and  the  school 
where  they  receive,  gratuitously,  a  com- 
mon education  at  such  seasons  as  they 
are  not  occupied  in  field  work. 

The  Pinehurst  park  and  flower  gar- 
dens also  afford  much  pleasure  to  visit- 
ors. They  are  open  on  all  days  except 
Sundays  and  national  holidays.  During 
the  winter  and  early  spring,  "  tea  talks  " 
are  given  once  a  week  for  the  instruc- 
tion and  entertainment  of  visitors,  who 
are  also  served  with  a  cup  of  the  Amer- 
ican-grown beverage. 

Tea  plucking  and  manufacture  con- 
tinue with  slight  interruptions  from 
the  beginning  of  May  to  the  end  of 
September. 


TEA    PICKERS   AT   SCHOOL. 


56 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


THE    PROPHET,    AND    MORE   OF    HIS    METHODS, 

By  Helen  Campbell. 


"  Yes,"  said  the  mistress  of  the 
house,  "he  is  a  delightful  guest,  cer- 
tainly ;  in  fact,  the  only  one  I  ever  had 
who  entertained  himself  in  just  the 
same  way.  He  has  a  simply  impas- 
sioned enthusiasm  for  the  meat-grinder, 
and  I  dare  not  leave  him  alone  with  it, 
lest,  when  the  storeroom  supplies  fail, 
he  try  it  on  the  kindling-wood  !  'Why 
is  it  always  the  Saxon  who  invents  a 
thing  so  simple  ?'  He  says,  '  Why  not 
the  Asiatic  ? '  and  I  answer  that  the 
Anglo-Saxon  are  the  only  people  on  the 
face  of  the  earth  who  have  a  national 
standard  of  comfort  and  make  that  the 
test  of  what  they  call  civilization." 

"But  it  is  not,  or  only  in  a  degree," 
said  the  Prophet,  who  had  come  in 
softly,  as  was  his  wont,  and  settled 
down  with  the  family  cat  in  the  big  chair 
by  the  south  window,  both  of  them,  as 
it  were,  purring  in  concert.  The 
Prophet's  eyes  were  bright,  his  color 
high.  He  looked  as  if  he  had  come  in 
from  the  open  country,  —  a  high  hill  it 
might  be,  —  on  which  the  sun  shone, 
and  where  free  winds,  with  no  taint  of 
smelter  smoke  in  their  breath,  had 
blown  upon  him.  This  was  his  usual 
expression.  In  actual  fact,  he  had 
come  from  the  kitchen,  but  out-of-doors 
had  preceded  it,  while  a  transcendental 
lecture  would,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
hours,  be  the  next  thing  in  order,  pre- 
ceded and  followed  by  such  cooking 
as  his  fancy  dictated. 

"There  are  differences  no  less 
strange  between  Saxon  and  Latin," 
the  Prophet  pursued.  "  For  the  Latin 
race,  the   social  instinct  is   the  ruling 


one;  and  comfort,  as  you  call  it,  is  to 
them  always  secondary,  well  as  they 
love  luxury.  But  the  Latins  are  an 
abstemious  people,  save  the  degenerate 
Parisian,  with  his  thousand  sauces  and 
no  religion.  That  had  to  be,  to  coun- 
teract the  Saxon's  hundred  religions 
and  only  one  gravy  (though  Brillat- 
Savarin  said  that  of  America,  which  is, 
after  all,  the  same  as  England).  But 
listen  to  a  paragraph  from  the  new 
book  on  the  table.  '  The  desire  for 
bodily  comfort  is  the  paramount  desire 
that  has  made  the  Saxon's  civiliza- 
tion. He  is  willing  to  do  the  hardest 
work  to  secure  it.  He  does  not  fail  to 
keep  his  eye  on  it,  even  when  his  love 
of  adventure  takes  him  quite  out  of 
the  Unes  within  which  comfort  is 
usually  sought.  We  know  that  much 
of  his  sturdy  independence  has  been 
in  the  interest  of^comfort,  and  that  he 
was,  at  times  in  his  history,  willing 
that  others  should  rule,  provided  he 
were  let  alone  in  his  private  capacity, 
there  being  no  comfort  equal  to  that ; 
but  that  her  always  asserted  himself 
with  unequivocal  vigor,  when  there  was 
danger  of  encroachment  on  his  right  to 
be  let  alone.  In  fine,  we  know  that 
this  comfort  which  he  wants,  and  has 
learned  so  excellently  to  supply  him- 
self withal,  is  what  everybody,  in  some 
measure,  now  wants ;  so  that  he  is, 
both  in  the  main  motive  of  his  eco- 
nomic life,  and  in  the  various  ways  in 
•which  he  attains  to  its  fulfilment,  rep- 
resentative of  the  strongest  present 
drift  of  the  world.'  " 

"  There  is  meat  for  discussion,"  said 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


57 


the  Prophet,  laying  down  the  book,  but 
keeping  his  finger  between  the  leaves. 
"  The  Latin,  from  the  Frenchman  on, 
wants  to  secure  mental  ease  through 
the  play  of  all  the  social  activities  of 
man.  The  Anglo-Saxon  wants  com- 
fort for  the  body.  That  is  why  he 
counts  the  Frenchman  shallow.  He 
would  eat  his  dinner  in  silence,  to  taste 
all  flavor,  with  no  waste  of  words  to 
interrupt  the  process.  But  this  is 
aside,  save  that  it  is  all  to  be  first 
simplified  at  many  points,  then  the  two 
principles  are  to  be  made  to  .combine. 
It  is  union,  always  union,  that  we  seek, 
and  it  is  hard  to  see  it  put  away  in 
places  where  it  might  be.  In  cooking 
now — " 

"  I  thought  it  would  get  back  to 
that,"  said  the  mistress,  with  a  little 
laugh. 

"Why  not,  since  cooking  is  one 
secret  of  true  civilization  ?  "  returned 
the  Prophet  seriously.  "  So  long  as 
gross  feeding  is  in  order,  gross  think- 
ing goes  on.  But  do  as  I  say  to  you. 
Study  flavor  and  savor  and  the  sim- 
plest thing  shall  take  on  character  and 
build  into  these  bodies  forces  unknown 
to  the  scorner  of  such  law.  To-day, 
now,  I  grind  and  make  ready  a  loaf 
that  is  of  finer  force  than  a  whole  sir- 
loin ;  that  can  give  strength,  yet  leave 
the  brain  clear.  I  go  now  to  baste  it 
or  to  show  Katrine  how  that  shall  be 
done,  and  then  I  return  for  this  dis- 
cussion. This  is  life,  —  to  do  the  deed 
and  then  speak  the  word  that  expounds 
its  meaning." 

"  This  is  delicious,"  said  the  min- 
ister's wife,  who  had  dropped  in  for  an 
informal  lunch,  much  the  custom  of 
the  house,  and,  since  the  Prophet's 
coming,  in  the  nature  of  an  equally  in- 
formal cooking  lesson.  "  We  can  fol- 
low, I  suppose." 


"  Most  certainly,"  said  the  mistress. 
"  He  seems  to  take  it  for  granted,  and 
Katrine  is  his  devoted  slave,  and  allows 
him  liberties  I  have  never  dared  to 
take." 

We  followed.  The  Prophet  knelt 
before  the  open  oven,  and  something 
of  a  golden  brown  just  beginning  to 
take  on  a  deeper  color  disclosed  itself. 
The  Prophet  basted  it  with  as  tender 
care  as  a  chef  would  bestow  upon  a 
pair  of  canvas-backs,  then  closed  the 
door,  and  stirred  something  in  a  sauce- 
pan. 

"This  that  simmers  so  softly  and 
may  now  simmer  no  more  is  hot 
punch  for  this  most  raw  and  dismal 
day  of  gloom  and  chill,"  he  said.  "And 
now  I  will  tell  you  how  both  are  made 
if  you  will,  since  so  it  is  that  you 
will  have  me  do  every  time  I  cook. 
This  is  '  nut  loaf '  that  I  baste,  but 
not  such  nut  loaf  as  I  find  in  a  vege- 
tarian cook-book.  No :  this  has  life. 
You  shall  see.  How  do  I  make  it  ? 
There  is  first  the  loaf  of  white  bread, 
sweet  and  a  little  stale,  and  I  crumble 
all  that  is  inside  and  cut  small  all  the 
crust  with  a  knife.  There  must  be  three 
pints  of  crumbs.  Then  in  the  warm 
oven  —  never  hot — they  dry  for  two 
hours  in  a  long  pan  which  you  call  drip- 
ping pan  (granite  is  best,  because  it  is 
smooth  and  holds  no  flavor  of  the  last 
dish,  as  iron  will).  They  shall  be 
stirred.  They  shall  not  be  browned, 
and  so  comes  a  flavor  no  other  way 
can  give. 

"  Now  then,  they  are  dry,  and  I  put 
with  them  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a 
tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  one 
of  dried  sage  leaves  crumbled  fine  be- 
tween the  fingers  before  measuring, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper, 
and  quarter  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne, 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  summer  savory. 


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one  pint  of  ground  celery  (or  it  may  be 
cut  fine  only),  one  sour  apple  in  thin 
JDits.  Now  we  mince  fine  one  good 
onion  of  medium  size,  and  fry  it  five 
minutes  on  omelet  pan  with  a  third 
of  a  pound  of  good  butter.  All  this 
now  we  pour  over  the  crumbs  and  stir 
till  all  are  coated. 

"  Now  it  is  to  beat  three  eggs  and 
put  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and  all  on  the 
crumbs  and  put  aside  to  soak ;  while 
once  more  the  grinder,  and  three  cups 
of  nut  meats, —  pecans,  filberts,  and 
Brazil  nuts.  And  these  stir  into  the 
crumbs,  all  swelled  and  waiting,  keep- 
ing out  one  tablespoonful  for  sauce. 
And  then  we  shape  it  all  in  an  oblong 
loaf  four  inches  wide,  three  inches 
thick  or  more,  and  put  it  on  a  tin 
sheet,  with  little  holes,  that  goes  in  the 
roasting-pan,  but  first  with  butter  on 
it.  Into  a  rather  slow  oven  it  goes, 
with  an  hour  and  a  half  to  bake  and  to 
be  basted  with  a  little  hot  water  and 
melted  butter.  And  now,  when  it  is 
brown  and  slipped  on  the  hot  platter 
that  waits,  comes  the  sauce.  This  is 
fine. 

"Melt  in  your  smooth  omelet -pan 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  put 
in  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion  and 
half  a  sour  apple  in  thin  bits.  Now 
put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and 
cook  to  a  clear  brown ;  pour  to  it  a 
pint  of  hot  milk,  always  very  slowly 
and  with  a  stir,  and  then  a  cup  of  hot 
water  to  the  pan  where  the  loaf  baked, 
and  let  all  boil  well  and  stir  from  the 
bottom,  unless  it  be  too  brown.  The 
tablespoonful  of  ground  nuts  goes  to 
this,  one  of  lemon  juice,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  It  must  be  thick 
as  thick  cream;  and  on  the  loaf  are 
slices  of  orange,  one  for  each  eater, 
and  pretty  parsley  all  about;  and  you 


shall  see  how  it  is  cut  and  served. 
Troublesome,  did  some  one  say  ?  But 
never  so  much  as  that  passion  of  yours, 
croquettes,  though  indeed  this  too  can 
be  croquette  if  you  will  fry." 

As  the  Prophet  talked  the  sauce 
had  come  into  being,  Katrine  looking 
on  with  absorbed  attention.  "Thus 
be  it,"  he  said,  waving  his  hands  over 
the  dish  as  if  in  blessing,  and  we  fol- 
lowed it  and  him  to  the  dining-room, 
the  punch  in  the  rear  borne  by  the 
daughter  of  the  house,  who  examined 
it  as  she  went. 

The  pretty  table  waited,  its  vase  of 
white  carnations  in  the  centre,  and  the 
Prophet  gazed  silently  on  the  work  of 
his  hands  and  sighed  as  he  tasted  his 
own  portion,  a  sigh  of  deep  content. 

"  That  truly  is  food,"  he  said,  and 
proceeded  to  make  it  his  own. 

"But  the  punch — the  punch,"  he 
said,  as  he  put  down  his  glass;  "that 
I  had  forgotten  to  tell,  yet  all  in  it 
is  the  corrective  of  this,  perhaps,  too 
rich  food  for  the  little  child.  Only 
a  small  piece  for  him  ;  but  for  people, 
all  they  wish.  Now,  in  the  punch " 
— the  Prophet  pronounced  it  "  poonch  " 
—  "there  is  first  a  quart  of  grape  juice, 
and  always  of  dark  grapes,  if  maybe, 
because  they  have  drunk  most  sun. 
Heat  it  in  double  boiler  and  put  in  it 
juice  of  four  lemons ;  four  dried  spear- 
mint leaves  rubbed  fine  in  fingers  and 
one  pound  of  sugar.  To  this  put  four 
quarts  of  hot  water,  or  three  if  you 
will,  have  it  very  strong.  Some  say 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  but  that  is 
as  each  shall  choose.  But  in  every 
glass  one  dust  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
and  the  hot  juice  from  hot  bowl  on  it. 
There  you  have  what  is  food  and  drink 
in  one,  good  for  child  as  man,  and 
that  is  not  to  be  said  of  your  tea  and 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


59 


your  coffee.  There  are  many  punches 
that  should  be  used  instead  of  tea; 
seven  I  have  always  in  my  mind,  and 
make  as  I  feel ;  and  some  day  I  will 
tell  you  every  one,  but  not  unless  I 
make  them.  But  each  one  has  its  own 
power,  and  may  go  with  its  own  dish, 
for  corrective,  or  to  balance  it,  it  were 
better  to  say ;  and  when  you  know  all 
these  punches  and  all  the  dishes  that 
are  with  them,  you  begin  to  know  some 
things  that  are  of  real  civilization, 
because,  as  you  eat  these  foods, —  yes, 
and  drink  them, —  come  clearer  brain 
and  more  power  to  judge.     For  there 


are  subtle  things  in  these  combinations. 
It  is  not  for  nothing  I  study  them  and 
test  what  is  good  and  what  may  be 
changed,  till  now  there  is  not  one  that 
has  not  its  own  meaning  —  yes,  reason 
—  from  the  Highest.  Is  not  all  food  of 
Him  1  But  men  have  bejuggled  it 
till  its  life  is  gone,  and  then  know  not 
what  herb  of  the  field  is  for  healing 
and  what  for  destruction.  As  they 
will  handle,  it  is  all  destruction,  and 
most  so,  I  think,  in  case  of  this  Anglo- 
Saxon,  of  whom  we  have  begun  to  talk, 
but  whose  head  is  thick  and  who  cares 
not  much  to  learn." 


THE  MISSION  OF  A  ROSE  GERANIUM. 

By  Eleanor  M.  Lucas. 

*'  Give  fools  their  gold,  and  knaves  their  power ; 

Let  fortune's  bubbles  rise  and  fall ; 
.  Who  sows  a  field,  or  trains  a  flower, 

Or  plants  a  tree,  is  more  than  all." 


Pleasant,  and,  it  may  be,  tender, 
memories  always  linger  in  a  spray  of 
rose-scented  geranium  ;  the  soft  repose 
of  its  green  foliage,  and  the  indescrib- 
able spicy  fragrance,  sweeter  than  "the 
balm  of  a  thousand  flowers,"  have  ever 
dignified,  and  will  forever  dignify,  its 
individuality.  The  sentiment  ascribed 
to  the  rose  geranium,  in  the  symbolical 
language  of  flowers,  is  comfort;  and  its 
perfumed  breath  seems  to  tell  us  of  re- 
newed life.  It  strengthens  hope,  stim- 
ulates our  lagging  spirits,  and  "  invites 
gracious  thoughts  without  any  jarring 
note,"  like  the  perfume  of  Marget's 
garden  (in  "  Beside  the  Bonnie  Brier 
Bush "),  with  its  sweet-scented  wall- 
flowers, and  thyme,  and  moss  roses. 
In  all  the  dear  old-fashioned  gardens 


we  read  of,  sweet-scented  plants  have 
an  important  place;  and  not  only  in 
stories,  but  in  history,  do  we  see  the 
power  of  spicy  fragrance.  The  rose 
geranium  is  a  privileged  character;  its 
perfume  is  always  exquisite  and  healthy; 
it  never  overpowers  one,  like  a  mag- 
nolia, a  tube-rose,  or  acacia  bloom.  A 
single  plant  of  the  red-flowering  variety, 
on  a  sunlit  shelf,  is  a  window  garden 
by  itself ;  it  will  perfume  a  room  deli- 
cately. Every  time  you  brush  its  odor- 
ous leaf  its  waves  of  incense  will  greet 
you  with  a  new  delight.  If  the  plant 
never  blossomed,  it  would  still  sweeten 
our  lives ;  but,  when  it  breaks  out  into 
a  mass  of  bloom,  each  terminal  cluster 
a  tuft  of  unclouded  crimson,  which, 
though  exceedingly  gay,  is  yet  delicate 


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and  refined,  owing  to  the  thick,  green 
foliage  that  makes  a  rich  setting  close 
about  the  flowers,  it  is  an  object  to 
gladden  any  mortal's  eyes,  and  bring 
comfort.  Once  established,  it  advances 
in  queenly  growth.  Its  subsequent 
culture  is  a  matter  of  ease,  although 
it  resents  shade,  and  poor  soil,  and 
loves  the  sunshine. 

For  cut-flower  work  nothing  excels 
its  green  foliage,  unless  it  be  the  fern, 
and  that  wilts  so  quickly.  One  can 
use  a  single  velvety  leaf,  or  a  spray, 
with  equal  advantage.  A  modest  table 
can  be  transformed  to  one  of  magical 
beauty,  by  the  green  and  lively  rose- 
colored  clusters.  This  effect  is  best 
obtained  by  arranging  them  in  low 
bowls ;  an  egg-shell  china  bowl,  with  a 
few  loose  sprays  of  the  richly  colored 
blossoms,  each  cluster  with  a  foil  and 
setting  of  green  foliage,  and,  as  Mary 
Wilkins  says,  '*  Like  all  simple  things, 
it  is,  in  and  of  itself,  a  poem."  And 
dainty  effects  are  to  be  got  by  using 
the  green  foliage  without  a  trace  of  a 
flower.  A  gaily  embroidered  cloth  for 
the  centre  of  the  table, —  one  with  a 
wreath  of  cherry-red  roses  or  glowing 
tulips, —  and  in  its  centre  a  bowl  of  the 
sweet  leaves,  arranged  with  airy  light- 
ness,— a  delightful  study  in  living  green. 
Avoid  a  crowded  mass ;  some  crum- 
pled tissue  paper  would  do  as  well. 
Or  encircle  a  round  table  mirror  with 
a  thick  wreath  of  green  sprays  ;  it  will 
retain  its  freshness  and  beauty  for 
hours,  and,  even  when  past  its  prime, 
its  perfume  will  linger,  and  continue 
even  after  the  death  of  the  plant.  The 
leaves,  if  dried  carefully  in  a  cool  room, 
and  lightly  dropped  into  any  little  dish, 
and  sprinkled  wdth  alcohol,  have  the 
power  to  please  still  by  their  odor. 

Rose  flavor   is   given    to  butter  by 


putting  the  little  prints  of  butter,  each 
wrapped  in  cheesecloth,  into  a  light 
porcelain  dish,  on  a  bed  of  rose-scented 
geranium  leaves.  Cover  with  another 
layer  of  leaves,  put  on  the  lid,  and 
allow  to  stand  over  night.  This  butter 
is  much  in  demand  for  sandwiches  at 
teas  and  receptions. 

The  well-dried  leaves  are  equal  to  « 
rose  leaves  for  filling  cushions  and 
sachet  bags.  In  fact,  much  of  the  rose 
water  and  perfume  that  is  sold  is  from 
the  common  rose  geranium.  It  is  used 
extensively  as  a  legitimate  perfumery 
material,  agreeable  as,  if  not  equal  to, 
true  oil  of  roses. 

Cushions  scented  with  dried  gera 
nium  leaves  are  very  grateful  to  inva- 
lids, as  the  faintest  touch  of  some  really 
natural  scent  is  delicious  —  better  far 
than  manufactured  sachet  powders, 
v;hich,  as  a  rule,  contain  musk  in  some 
form,  of  all  odors  the  most  intolerable 
to  those  who  do  not  use  it.  Many 
persons  are  inconvenienced  by  it  to 
such  a  degree  that  they  cannot  stay 
in  a  room  containing  the  minutest  quan- 
tity of  it.  It  is  also  the  odor  which 
adheres  the  longest.  A  garment  upon 
which  musk  has  been  thrown  will 
smell  of  it  at  the  end  of  two  years, 
even  though  it  may  have  been  exposed 
to  the  open  air  frequently ;  and  in 
apartments  it  will  endure  forever,  al- 
most. The  Empress  Josephine  was 
very  fond  of  perfumes,  and,  above  all, 
of  musk.  Her  dressing-room  at  Mal- 
maison  was  filled  with  it.  Twenty-five 
years  after  her  death  the  odor  of  the 
empress'  musk  remained,  in  spite  of 
scrubbing,  paint,  and  time. 

The  dried  leaves  of  rose  geranium, 
sewn  up  in  little  Swiss  muslin  tags, 
and  fastened  to  the  lining  of  a  gown, 
will   communicate    a    dainty  perfume; 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


6l 


and  bags  of  thin  silk,  or  some  sheer 
material,  padded  with  the  dried  leaves, 
are  delightful  devices  for  scenting  lin- 
gerie, and  cause  the  attire  of  her  who 
uses  them  to  exhale  an  au7'a  of  refined 
allurement.  No  woman  of  real  refine- 
ment will  use  any  but  very  delicate 
perfumes  at  her  toilet,  and  she  must 
choose  a  certain  perfume,  and  it  will 
then  become  associated  with  her  per- 
sonality. If  it  be  rose,  then  with  rose 
is  scented  the  meal-bag  used  in  her 
morning  bath  ;  the  cosmetics  by  which 
her  complexion  is  enhanced,  her  toilet 
water,  and  the  sachets  secreted  some- 
where about  her  attire, —  all  are  rose- 
scented,  and  geranium  leaves  afford 
an  excellent  substitute  for  rose  water 
and  perfume. 

Let  the  fresh  or  dried  leaves  soak 
in  the  water  jug;  they  not  only  soften, 
but  tonify  and  freshen  the  complexion, 
keeping  the  flesh  healthy  and  firm. 
An  excellent  rose-water  for  immediate 
use  can  be  made  by  steeping  the  fresh 
leaves  in  hot  water  for  one  hour,  then 
straining  off  the  clear  liquid.  A  cup 
of  leaves,  packed  measure,  to  a  pint  of 
water,  is  sufficient.  A  tablespoonful 
of  this  in  a  pint  of  water  is  pleasant 
for  a  wash. 

But,  when  the  warm  spring  weather 
comes,  our  plant  must  go  out  of  doors. 
So  prune  it  severely ;  cut  every  branch 
back  to  within  two  eyes  of  the  point 
this  branch  starts  from.  Then  turn 
it  out  of  the  pot,  prune  the  roots,  and 
repot  in  rich  soil.  As  the  roots  fill 
the  pot,  repot  it.  Liberal  supplies  of 
liquid  manure,  or  other  plant  food,  and 
moisture,  with  plenty  of  sun  all  sum- 
mer, and  an  occasional  pinching  back 
of  the  branches,  will  ensure  a  graceful, 
blooming  plant  for  the  winter  window 
garden.     To  grow  the  plant  in  pyram- 


idal form,  trim  away  all  but  the  cen- 
tral shoot.  Tie  this  firmly  to  a  slender 
stake,  and  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the 
required  height  the  terminal  shoot  is 
pinched  off.  This  causes  it  to  throw  out 
side  shoots,  which  should  be  pinched 
back  as  soon  as  they  reach  the  required 
length.  The  lower  branches  are  to  be 
left  long,  so  that  the  plant  will  be 
broad  at  the  base,  but  tapering  very 
gradually  to  a  point,  making  a  most 
graceful  tree. 

All  the  little  twigs  that  were  pruned 
away  will  make  new  plants,  so  be  care- 
ful to  root  them  in  moist  sand,  first 
cutting  off  all  the  leaves,  which  lay 
aside.  The  little  plants,  when  well- 
rooted  and  clothed  in  a  delicate,  velvety 
verdure,  are  just  wha,t  we  need  to  send 
to  some  "  shut-in  "  friend,  or  to  glad- 
den some  heart  who  lives  in  a  flower- 
less  home.  The  little  plant  may  cheer 
some  toil-worn  or  sick  person,  and  dif- 
fuse grace  and  beauty  into  lines  that, 
before  its  advent,  were  sad  and  cheer- 
less. 

"  For  he  who  blesses  most  is  blest  ; 

And  God  and  man  shall  own  his  worth 
Who  toils  to  leave,  as  his  bequest, 
An  added  beauty  to  the  earth." 

The  little  roots  of  the  plant  are  well 
wrapped  in  damp  moss,  then  more 
snugly  tucked  about  with  waxed  paper, 
and  the  whole  is  packed  securely  in  a 
strong  pasteboard  or  light  wooden  box, 
large  enough  to  hold  it  without  bruising 
throughout  the  journey  in  the  mail- 
bag.  When  the  box  is  opened  the 
rose  geranium's  own  fragrance  will  not 
be  more  sweet  than  the  "  soft  south 
wind  of  memory "  wafting  over  the 
receiver's  heart. 

Now  let  us  go  back  to  the  leaves 
we  cut  off.  These  find  many  a  fragrant 
mission.     Because  rose  leaves  are  not 


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THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


to  be  had,  we  are  not  debarred  from 
enjoying  a  jar  of  fragrant  compound 
to  bring  the  perfume  of  the  breath  of 
nature  into  our  homes.  Take  a  quart 
of  the  rose-geranium  leaves  and  place 
in  a  large  china  bowl,  with  salt  between 
each  layer  of  leaves  (half  a  cup  of  salt 
to  a  quart  of  the  leaves).  Let  it  remain 
five  days,  stirring  and  turning  each 
day,  and  cover  the  bowl  closely.  They 
should  then  appear  moist ;  add  two 
ounces  of  coarsely  powdered  allspice 
and  an  ounce  of  bruised  stick  cinna- 
mon. This  forms  the  stock ;  allow  it 
to  remain  for  a  week,  stirring  daily ; 
then  put  into  the  permanent  jar  in  lay- 
ers ;  sprinkle  between  the  layers  the 
following  mixture :  One  ounce,  each, 
of  cloves  and  cinnamon,  two  nutmegs, 
two  ounces  of  orris-root,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  anise-seed,  all  coarsely  pow- 
dered. It  is  a  delightful  thing  to  have 
in  the  house ;  it  may  be  opened  fre- 
quently, and  gives  off  a  sweet,  spicy, 
summery  odor,  a  whiff  of  w^hich  often 
cures  a  nervous  headache. 

A  simple  and  very  fragrant  cosmetic 
vinegar  is  made  by  tearing  a  pint  of 
the  rose  leaves  in  pieces,  and  covering 
with  one  quart  of  white-wine  vinegar, 
made  boiling  hot.  Cork  tightly  in  a 
stone  jug,  and  let  steep  for  two  weeks. 
Strain,  and  pour  into  small  bottles. 
A  gill  of  this  liquid  in  a  pail  of  water 
makes  an  invigorating  solution,  whose 
delightful  effects  can  only  be  compared 
with  a  plunge  in  the  surf.  Weak  per- 
sons will  find  it  a  tonic  beyond  compare. 

To  make  an  excellent  substitute  for 
rose  -  water,  take  a  wide-mouthed  jar, 
with  a  close-fitting  lid.  Place  in  the 
bottom  a  thin  layer  of  cotton,  saturated 
with  olive  oil ;  spread  over  this  a  layer 
of  the  leaves ;  lay  on  another  sheet  of 
oil-saturated  cotton  and  more    leaves. 


Repeat  until  the  jar  is  full.  Spread 
a  sheet  of  oiled  cotton  over  the  top, 
cover,  tie  over  it  a  piece  of  heavy,  oiled 
paper,  and  place  in  the  sun.  At  the 
end  of  a  week  squeeze  the  oil  out  of 
the  cotton  into  a  small  phial.  This  is 
the  perfumed  oil  of  commerce,  and  the 
scent  of  any  fiower  or  aromatic  can  be 
held  captive  by  this  simple  process. 
A  teaspoonful  of  this  oil,  cut  with  a 
gill  of  alcohol,  and  diluted  with  half  a 
pint  of  distilled  water  (or  water  that 
has  been  boiled  and  cooled),  makes  an 
excellent  rose-water  for  toilet  purposes. 
By  adding  one  tiuid  dram  of  tincture 
of  benzoin  to  a  pint  of  the  above  rose- 
water,  we  have  the  famous  "  milk  of 
roses."  A  tablespoonful  to  a  bowl  of 
water  gives  a  milky-looking  fluid,  with 
a  grateful  and  refreshing  scent.  If 
the  skin  is  oily,  add  to  a  pmt  of  milk 
of  roses  two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered 
borax,  and  shake  until  well  mixed; 
if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  skin  is  dry 
and  scurfy,  add,  in  place  of  the  borax, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  glycerine. 

To  remove  tan,  mix  half  a  pint  of  rose- 
water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice.  Dab  this  on  the  flesh,  and  allow 
to  dry;  and  for  sunburn  nothing  is 
equal  to  the  following  rose  paste :  Mix 
one  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  glycerine.  When 
well  rubbed  together,  heat  in  a  water 
bath,  stirring  constantly  until  a  clear 
jelly  is  formed.  Add,  gradually,  one 
tablespoonful  of  powdered  orris-root; 
when  it  again  boils,  remove.  Stir  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  rose  -  water. 
Pour  into  small  pots,  and  when  cool 
it  IS  ready  for  use.  This  emollient 
paste,  spread  over  the  face  and  hands 
before  retiring,  brings  a  soft  freshness 
to  the  skin. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


63 


SIMPLE  ENTERTAINMENTS  FOR  SUMMER. 

By  Carrie  May  Ashton. 


Roof  parties  are  quite  the  rage  this 
season,  and  can  be  made  most  delight- 
ful affairs.  As  a  rule  they  are  very 
informal. 

Cover  the  roof  with  matting  or  rugs, 
and  improvise  several  couches  or  di- 
vans by  the  aid  of  wire  cots  or  boxes, 
and  plenty  of  cushions  and  covers. 
Plants  and  palms  make  effective  deco- 
rations. Wild  flowers  arranged  in 
high  jars  or  old-fashioned  bowls  are 
decidedly  attractive. 

Where  the  roof  is  large,  and  walled 
in  by  a  high  parapet,  it  will  be  much 
pleasanter  and  safer.  If  there  is  any 
possible  place  for  hammocks,  suspend 
two  or  three  gay  ones. 

A  pretty  awning  can  be  str.etched 
over  the  refreshment  room.  Elaborate 
refreshments  are  not  needed,  and  not 
in  keeping  with  the  informality  of  the 
occasion.  Sandwiches,  salads,  olives, 
salted  nuts,  ice-cream,  or  ices,  with 
cake,  lemonade,  or  fruit  drinks,  will  be 
ample. 

Chinese  lanterns  add  much  to  the 
festive  appearance  of  an  evening's 
entertainment ;  they  can  be  hung  on 
strings  stretched  about  the  edge.  Vari- 
ous other  features,  both  novel  and 
unique,  can  be  added  by  the  clever 
hostess  who  desires  to  give  such  a 
party. 


tirely  in  water-lilies,  ferns,  and  vines. 
The  house  was  a  veritable  symphony 
in  green  and  white. 

The  dining-room  presented  a  most 
artistic  appearance,  the  sideboard  and 
mantel  being  banked  in  lilies. 

The  table  was  covered  with  the  finest 
and  snowiest  of  linen.  Reaching  from 
the  chandelier  to  the  four  corners  of 
the  table  were  vines  of  feathery  green. 
The  centrepiece  consisted  of  a  flat  cir- 
cular mirror  edged  with  water-lilies, 
with  a  tiny  pot  of  maiden's-hair  ferns 
in  the  centre. 

The  china  service  used  was  of  pure 
white  chitia,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  tiny  fern  fronds. 

The  entire  menu  was  in  green  and 
white.  Sandwiches  were  tied  with  pale 
green  ribbons ,  salads  were  served  on 
lettuce  leaves,  olives  on  beds  of  cracked 
ice,  and  the  fish  course  (timbales  or 
souffle)  was  served  in  cunning  little 
paper  cups  of  pale  green.  Ices  were 
served  in  the  form  of  pond-lilies,  and 
the  white  cake  was  iced  in  green.  The 
confections  and  favors  were  also  in 
green  and  white. 


A  water-lily  luncheon  was  recently 
given  by  a  prospective  bride  to  her 
attendants.     The  decorations  were  en- 


Nothing  can  be  simpler  and  more 
effective  than  a  luncheon  or  tea  where 
field  daisies  are  used  throughout  the 
decorations.  There  is  no  flower  which 
lasts  longer,  or  can  be  used  to  better 
advantage.  Ferns  make  a  good  back- 
ground. Let  the  refreshments  be  in 
keeping  with  the  decorations. 


64 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


BATTERS    AND    DOUGHS. 

By  Janet  M.  Hill. 

"  The  children  gather  wood,  and  the  fathers  kindle  the  fire,  and  the  women  knead  their 
dough  to  make  cakes  to  the  queen  of  heaven." 

"  Ephraim  is  a  cake  not  turned." 

"  Make  ready  quickly  three  measures  of  fine  meal,  knead  it,  and  make  cakes  upon  the 
hearth." 


Very  early  in  the  history  of  the 
world,  it  seems,  grains  and  other  sub- 
stances less  nutritious  were  ground  be- 
tween stones,  mixed  with  water  to  a 
dough,  and  baked  upon  hot  stones  or 
before  the  fire. 

An  uncooked  piece  of  dough,  being 
left  accidentally  a  sufficient  length  of 
time,  would,  by  a  natural  process  of 
fermentation,  give  rise  to  a  light  dough 
that  might  be  baked  in  this  condition. 
In  some  way  like  this  the  desirability 
of  providing  an  article  of  food  that 
was  light  and  porous  —  and  easily 
penetrated  by  the  digestive  fluids  — 
was  probably  discovered,  and  in  time, 
by  means  of  artificial  processes,  other 
and  less  uncertain  means  of  lightening 
dough  were  evolved. 

Definitions  of  Batters  and  Doughs. 

When  meal  or  flour  is  mixed  with 
liquid  to  such  a  consistency  that  it 
may  be  beaten^  the  mixture  is  called  a 
batter.  When  the  batter  is  of  such  a 
consistency  that  it  may  be  poured  from 
the  vessel  or  spoon  in  a  continuous 
stream,  it  is  called  a  pour  batter. 
When  the  batter  is  of  such  thickness 
that  it  breaks  and  drops  in  pouring, 
we  call  it  a  drop  batter.  When  a  mix- 
ture cannot  be  beaten  (beating  is 
done  by  cutting  down  with  a  spoon  or 
other  utensil  from  the  top  to  the  bot- 
tom of  a  mixture,  and  bringing  the 
spoon  up  to  the  surface,  passing  over 
and  down  again,  and  thus  turning  the 


mixture  over  and  over),  but  needs  be 
made  smooth  by  tossing  and  cutting 
with  a  knife,  kneading  with  the  hands, 
or  beating  with  a  rolling-pin,  the  mix- 
ture becomes  a  dough.  The  general 
proportions  of  flour  and  liquid  to  pro- 
duce batter  or  dough  are  as  follows : 
Equal  measures  of  flour  or  meal  and 
water  make  a  pour  batter ;  two  meas- 
ures of  flour  to  one  of  liquid  produce 
a  drop  batter,  and  three  measures  of 
flour  to  one  of  liquid  produce  a  dough. 
These  proportions  are  subject  to  many 
modifications,  owing  to  combination 
with  other  ingredients,  as  sugar,  butter, 
eggs,  etc.  Allowance  must  also  be 
made  for  the  kind  of  liquid  and  for  the 
difference  in  the  thickening  properties 
of  different  kinds  and  grades  of  flour 
or  meal. 

The  expansion  of  water  into  several 
hundred  times  its  volume  of  steam  is 
taken  advantage  of  in  making  johnny- 
cake  (Joune-  or  journey-cake),  which 
originated  with  the  American  Indians. 
The  early  settlers  in  this  country 
learned  how  to  make  it  from  the 
squaws.  The  grains  of  corn  were 
parched  in  hot  ashes,  sifted,  and  beaten 
into  powder,  then  stored  in  long  leath- 
ern bags.  When  food  was  needed  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  meal  were  mixed  with 
snow  in  winter,  and  water  in  summer, 
and  eaten  uncooked,  or  cooked  before 
the  open  fire.  Fifty  years  ago  johnny- 
cake  was  a  common  article  of  food  in 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE, 


65 


New  England ;  but  it  was  made  from 

cornmeal  ground  at  the   miller's   and 

baked  in  the  oven. 

The  LighteJiiiig  of  Baiters  a?id  Doughs. 
Batters  and  doughs  are  made  light  by 
I.  The  expansion  of  water  in  composition. 


to  the  mixture,  lest  the  expanded  cells 
be  broken,  and  in  baking  at  such  a  tem- 
perature that  the  cells  do  not  expand 
too  quickly;  and  yet  there  must  be  suf- 
ficient heat  to  fix  or  harden  the  walls. 


By  beating. 


II.  The  expansion  of    air   incorporated   j  By  adding  beaten  eggs. 

^  By  folding. 


III.  The  generation  of  gas  (carbon  dioxide). 
or 


Fermentation 


\  Spon 


taneous.    Decomoosition  of  starch 


\  Leaven. 
/  Yeast. 


'  Artificial.    Action  of  acid  on  carbonate  or  alkali  :  — 

1.  Bicarbonate  of  soda  and  muriatic  acid. 

2.  Bicarbonate  of  soda  and  cream-of-tartar. 

3.  Bicarbonate  of  soda  and  acid  phosphate. 

4.  Bicarbonate  of  soda  and  acids  in  lemon  juice  (citric),  sour 

milk  (lactic),  or  molasses  (acetic). 


In  making  gems,  as  the  spoon  goes 
in  and  out  and  over  the  batter  in  beat- 
ing, air  is  carried  into  the  mixture,  the 
glutinous  cell  walls  of  the  flour  hold 
the  air,  w^hich,  expanding  when  heated 
(air  at  70°  expands  to  about  three 
times  its  volume  at  the  temperature  of 
a  hot  oven*)  in  connection  with  the  ex- 
pansion of  the  w^ater  or  milk  used  as 
liquid  and  changed  into  steam,  makes 
the  gems  light.  In  making  puff  or 
plain  paste,  it  is  the  expansion  of  cold 
water  used  in  mixing,  and  of  cold  air 
incorporated  by  folding,  when  the  paste 
is  placed  in  the  heated  oven,  that  gives 
lightness  to  the  dough.  It  is  only  the 
indifferent  cook  who  fears  lest  she  do 
not  retain  the  air  by  folding,  or  fails  to 
regulate  the  heat  of  the  oven,  so  that 
sudden  expansion  bursts  the  cell  walls, 
or,  lacking  heat,  the  glutinous  cell  walls 
do  not  harden  when  expanded,  and  the 
desired  lightness  is  lost. 

We  also  make  use  of  the  glutinous 
consistency  of  albumen  in  eggs  in 
lightening  batters  and  doughs.  In  this 
case,  too,  the  greatest  care  must  be 
exercised  in  adding  the  beaten  eggs 
*  Ellen  H.  Richards. 


So  much  care  in  mixing  and  baking 
was  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  light- 
ness, that  chemists  worked  on  the 
subject  with  zeal,  but  it  was  many 
years  before  a  satisfactory,  simple,  yet 
suitable  means  of  generating  carbon 
dioxide  by  other  means  than  the  de- 
composition of  starch  was  discovered. 
Yeast  mixtures  naturally  precede  those 
in  which  soda  are  used,  but  the  latter 
will  be  given  precedence  here. 
Artificial  Fermentation. 

Carbonates  are  compounds  from 
which  a  gas  can  be  set  free ;  the  addi- 
tion of  an  acid  to  a  compound  which 
frees  gas  proves  that  such  compound 
is  a  carbonate.  That  soda  is  a  carbon- 
ate may  be  proved  by  the  addition  of 
several  acids,  any  one  of  which  will  set 
free  carbon  dioxide.  Carbon  dioxide 
may  also  be  evolved  from  soda  simply 
by  heating  it,  but  when  soda  is  used 
alone,  in  batters  and  doughs,  though 
lightness  is  secured,  other  essentials 
are  lacking,  the  "  cake  "  is  yellow,  and 
the  unchanged  carbonate  neutralizes 
the  acid  in  the  digestive  fluids,  and  thus 
impedes  digestion. 


66 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


Sour  milk,  lemon  juice,  and  molas- 
ses, through  the  lactic,  citric,  and  acetic 
acids  involved  in  their  composition, 
when  used  with  soda  generate  carbon 
dioxide  ;  but  the  quantity  and  strength 
of  the  acid  are  variable.  Nor  is  any 
one  of  these  ingredients  such  as  would 
be  available  or  suitable  at  all  times, 
and  under  all  circumstances. 

The  muriatic  acid  of  the  chemist 
seemed,  at  first,  to  be  the  ideal  acid  to 
use  with  soda  to  set  free  carbon  dioxide, 
as  the  residue  after  fermentation  was 
common  salt ;  but  the  liberation  of  the 
gas  was  instantaneous  when  the  acid 
and  soda  met.  So  this  combination 
was  dismissed  as  impractical.  Acid 
phosphates,  the  residue  from  which  are 
mineral  matters,  were  tried,  and  are 
still  in  use ;  but  finally  cream-of-tartar 
came  to  be  considered  the  sitie  qua  non 
for  which  the  culinary  world  was  seek- 
ing to  complete  the  necessary  chemical 
reaction  in  the  process  of  lightening 
food.  There  were  several  reasons  for 
this  conclusion,  and  these  hold  good 
to-day. 

Cream-of-tartar  is  a  harmless  sub- 
stance, which  does  not  unite  chemi- 
cally with  soda  until  the  application 
of  heat,  as  well  as  moisture ;  and  the 
residue  (Rochelle  salts)  is  harmless 
when  taken  in  the  quantity  used  in 
food,  even  when  a  large  amount  of  such 
food  is  eaten. 

There  is  one  objection  to  the  use 
of  soda  and  cream  -  of  -  tartar.  The 
proportion  of  each  to  be  used  must 
be  measured  with  the  greatest  ac- 
curacy. Rather  more  than  twice  as 
much  cream-of-tartar  as  soda,  by  meas- 
ure, needs  be  used.  If  the  quantity  of 
soda  be  too  great,  the  caustic  unneu- 
tralized  carbonate  will  neutralize  the 
acid   of  the   gastric  juice   and   hinder 


digestion.  In  this  case  the  yellow 
color  of  the  food  tells  the  story,  and 
the  food  may  be  avoided  ;  but,  on  ac- 
count of  this  necessary  accuracy  in 
measurement,  baking-powder  has  come 
into  general  use. 

Baking-  Powder. 

The  best  approved  baking-powder  is 
a  composition  of  bicarbonate  of  soda 
and  cream-of-tartar,  mixed  in  such  pro- 
portion that  one  exactly  neutralizes  the 
other.  A  small  quantity  of  cornstarch 
or  flour  is  added  to  separate  the  ingre- 
dients. These  three  ingredients  are 
mixed  together  by  sifting  many  tiines 
(ten  or  more)  so  that  each  little  particle 
of  carbonate  and  acid  be  surrounded 
by  a  thin  coating,  or  film,  of  starch. 
There  are  many  grades  of  soda,  cream- 
of-tartar,  and  flour,  and  of  course  the 
best  give  the  best  results. 

Bicarbonate  of  Soda. 

Soda  is  obtained  from  "cryolite," 
a  native  deposit  found  in  the  earth, 
from  certain  marine  plants,  and  from 
common  salt.  At  the  present  time  the 
best  soda  is  obtained  from  a  "  cryo- 
lite "  brought  from  Greenland,  about 
15,000  tons  are  annually  worked  up. 
Soda  is  cheap,  and  this  ingredient  is 
rarely,  probably  never,  adulterated. 
Bicarbonate  of  soda,  the  form  used 
for  leavening  purposes,  is  produced  by 
charging  common  soda  with  carbonic- 
acid  gas. 

Cream-of-  Tartar. 

The  acid  used  to  set  free  the  car- 
bon dioxide  in  bicarbonate  of  soda  is 
a  deposit  from  grape  juice  found  in 
wine  casks.  The  name  "  argol  "  is 
given  to  this  grape  acid,  which,  when 
purified,  becomes  cream-of-tartar.  This 
acid  exists  naturally  in  the  grape,  but, 
being  insoluble  in  alcohol,  it  is  gradu- 
ally deposited  on  the  sides  of  the  cask 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


67 


as  the  sugar  of  the  juice  is  converted 
into  alcohol  by  fermentation.  The 
best  argol  is  obtained  from  the  wine- 
producing  countries  of  Southern  Eu- 
rope, that  from  California,  for  some 
unknown  condition  of  soil,  climate,  or 
culture,  being  of  an  inferior  grade. 
The  color  of  argol  depends  upon  the 
color  of  the  grapes  from  which  the 
juice  is  expressed.  It  varies  from 
grayish  white  to  reddish  purple.  Argol 
is  first  ground,  and  then  purified.  This 
latter  process  is  an  expensive  one. 
Nothing  is  desirable  but  the  pure  grape 
acid ;  lime,  coloring,  and  all  other  im- 
purities found  in  the  argol,  needs  be 
removed;  and  the  purity,  hence  ex- 
pense, depends  entirely  upon  the  care 
of  the  refiners.  Below  is  found  the 
proper 

Formula  for  a  Baking- Foivder. 

I  lb.  2  oz.  cream-of-tartar. 
\  lb.  bicarbonate  of  soda. 
^  \.o  \  lb.  of  cornstarch  or  fine  flour. 

At  first  sight  one  would  say,  Why  not 
buy  the  ingredients  of  a  reliable  chem- 
ist and  mix  one's  own  baking-powder .'' 
This  may  be  done  if  the  product  is  to 
be  used  very  soon;  still,  the  ingredients 
may  not  have  been  recently  prepared 
and  so  be  lacking  in  strength;  then,  too, 
the  chemist  has  appliances  for  drying 
the  ingredients  before  they  are  mixed, 
which  does  much  to  preserve  their 
strength.  Starch  and  cream  of-tartar 
can  be  most  effectually  dried  out,  but 
soda  can  be  heated  only  slightly  with- 
out the  loss  of  its  gas.  In  use,  baking- 
powder  should  always  be  sifted  with  the 
dry  ingredieiits  to  prevent,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  escape  of  the  gas  until 
the  mixture  is  placed  in  the  oven.  In 
using  soda  and  cream-of-tartar,  pulver- 
ize and  sift  the  soda  before  measur- 
ing, and  then  sift  both  ingredients  at 


least  twice  with  the  flour,  being  care- 
ful to  separate  them  with  flour  after 
measuring. 

Proportions  of  Artificial  Leavening 
Agents. 

I  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  i  pint  of  thick  sour 
milk. 

I  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  .1  cup  of  molasses, 
for  batters. 

^  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  i  cup  of  mo- 
lasses, for  doughs. 

i  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice  in  thick  batters,  for  each  2 
cups  of  flour, 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  3  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream-of-tartar  to  i  quart  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  to  a  cup 
of  flour,  in  mixtures  without  eggs. 

In  mixtures  made  light  by  the  in- 
corporation of  air  into  the  mixture  it- 
self, or  into  eggs  added  to  the  mixture, 
great  care  must  be  exercised  that  air 
actually  be  incorporated,  and  there  re- 
tained until  the  cell  walls  are  hardened 
by  heat.  Not  only  must  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  oven  be  regulated  to  a 
nicety,  but  certain  purely  mechanical 
operations  must  be  understood.  By 
stirring  a  beaten  mixture,  we  set  free 
the  air  included  by  beating,  and  change 
what  might  have  been  a  light  produc- 
tion to  a  heavy  one. 

Stirring^  Beatings  etc. 

Stirring  is  an  operation  in  which  the 
spoon  or  knife  is  moved  round  and 
round  in  ever-widenmg  circles,  until 
the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  blended. 
In  beating,  the  spoon  or  other  utensil 
is  brought  down  from  the  top  to  the 
bottom  of  a  mixture,  through  the  mix- 
ture, up  to  the  surface,  over  the  mix- 
ture and  down  again,  taking  the 
mixture  along  with  it,  turning  it  over 
and  over,  and  always  accompanied 
with  air.  When  beaten  eggs,  and  more 
particularly  the  whites,  are  added  to 
a  mixture,   they  are   added  by  cutting 


68 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


and  foldhig.  The  spoon  or  knife  is 
cut  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
several  times,  and  the  mixture  from  be- 
low brought  up  and  folded  over  that 
which  is  above,  and  the  motion  re- 
peated until  the  two  are  well  blended. 
Suggestions. 

As  the  acid  in  lemon  juice  sets  free 
carbon  dioxide,  in  a  large  measure, 
upon  contact  with  the  soda,  mixtures 
in  which  these  agents  are  employed 
will  not  be  very  light,  and  their  use  is 
restricted  to  cakes  in  which  a  close 
texture  is  desirable.  Add  the  lemon 
juice  to  the  eggs  and  sugar  and  sift  the 
soda  into  the  flour. 

Sour  milk,  buttermilk,  or  cream  with 
soda  are  most  successfully  used  in 
mixtures  in  which  cornmeal  predomi- 
nates. Such  preparations  are  incom- 
parably moister,  more  tender  and  deli- 
cate, when  the  leavening  gas  is  thus 
generated,  than  when  cream-of-tartar 
in  any  form  is  used  as  the  generating 
acid. 

In  wheat-flour  mixtures,  when  pure 
cream-of-tartar  and  soda  are  used, 
either  in  bulk  or  in  the  form  of  baking- 
powder,  if  the  correct  proportions  be 
taken  and  the  proper  temperature  of 
the  oven  be  secured,  the  cooked  prod- 
uct will  be  neither  dry  nor  too  por- 
ous. If  such  be  the  case,  you  have 
reason  to  suspect  the  presence  of  some 
other  ingredient,  or,  in  other  words,  an 
adulteration  of  the  lightening  agent. 

RECIPES. 

Johnny-Cake. 

Stir    one    pint    of    scalded    milk    or 

water,  or  half  of  each,  into  one  cup  of 

yellow  or  white  cornmeal,  to  which  a 

teaspoonful  of   salt   has   been   added. 


Bake  in  a  buttered  pan  about  eighteen 
minutes. 

Jo/mny-Cake,  No.  2. 

To  one  pint  of  meal  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  stir  boiling  water  to 
make  a  thick  drop  batter ;  thin  to  a 
thick  pour  batter  with  cold  milk  ;  drop 
by  tablespoonfuls  on  to  a  hot  buttered 
frying-pan  and  bake  as  griddle-cakes. 
Popovers. 

Beat  three  eggs  until  very  light  with- 
out separating ;  add,  alternately,  sifted 
flour  and  milk  —  a  little  at  a  time  — 
until  a  pint  of  each  has  been  used ; 
beat  thoroughly  with  the  egg-beater. 
Put  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  butter 
into  each  hot  cup,  and  fill  them  to 
two-thirds  their  height  with  the  batter. 
Bake  between  thirty  and  forty  minutes 
in  a  rather  hot  oven ;  use  for  a  change 
half  entire  -  wheat  flour.  —  A7inie  C. 
Graver. 

Maryland  Beaten  Biscuit. 

With  the  tips  of  the  fingers  work  a 
teaspoonful  of  butter  into  each  pint  of 
flour,  then  mix  with  milk  to  a  dough ; 
beat  twenty  minutes,  then  cut  into 
rounds  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
—  ''Rosie:' 

General  Rule  for  Muffins. 

Sift  together  one  cup,  each,  of  meal 
and  flour,  or  two  of  flour,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  three  and  one-half 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
and  from  two  tablespoonfuls  to  half  a 
cup  of  sugar.  Beat  an  egg  until  light 
without  separating,  add  one  cup  of 
milk,  and  stir  at  once  into  the  dry  in- 
gredients. Add  also  from  one  table- 
spoonful  to  one-fourth  a  cup  of  melted 
butter;  beat  thoroughly  and  bake  about 
twenty -five  minutes  in  a  hot,  well- 
buttered  muffin  or  gem  pan. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


69 


SELECTED  VERSE, 


THE    POET  S    BEQUEST. 
With  all  its  leafy  voices  spake  to  me 

My  guardian  tree, 
As  I  sat  dreaming  in  my  shady  seat : 

"  I  shall  outlive  thee ;  " 
Then  answered  I,  dream  fashion,  as  was  meet : 

"  This  charge  I  give  thee  : 
Make,  then,  his   dreams   as  pleasant  and  as 

sweet, 
Who  shall  hereafter  fill  this  shady  seat. 

As  mine  for  me, 
Thou  long-outliving,  kindly  dooryard  tree  !  " 

With  fragrant  sighing,  as  I  passed  her  place. 

And  half-hid  face. 
The   wild   rose   spake    beside    the  crumbling 
wall : 

"  I  shall  outlive  thee." 
Then  I  (as  one  who  heeds  a  far-sent  call)  : 

"  A  charge  I  give  thee, 
O  rose,  solace  and  peace  to  him  befall 
(As  once  to  me)  who,  by  this  crumbling  wall. 

Shall  feel  the  grace 
Of  unknown  things  in  thine  averted  face !  " 

Wherefore  this  legend  do  I  leave  for  him 

Who  here  outlives  me  : 
"  I  drank  the  cup  of  joy,  filled  to  the  brim ; 

Nothing  misgives  me. 
Drink  thou   thereof;    and   all   once   mine   be 

thine ; 
Then,  in  thy  turn,  as  glad  the  cup  resign." 

—  Edith  M.  Thomas,  in  "  The  Cenhcryy 


SHARED. 


I  SAID  it  in  the  meadow  path, 
I  say  it  on  the  mountain  stairs  : 

The  best  things  any  mortal  hath 

Are  those  which  every  mortal  shares. 

The  air  we  breathe,  the  sky,  the  breeze, 
The  light  without  us  and  within, 

Life,  with  its  unlocked  treasuries, 
God's  riches,  are  for  all  to  win. 

The  grass  is  softer  to  my  tread, 

For  rest  it  yields  unnumbered  feet ; 

Sweeter  to  me  the  wild  rose  red 

Because  she  makes  the  whole  world  sweet. 

Into  your  heavenly  loneliness 
Ye  welcome  me,  O  solemn  peaks ! 


And  me  in  every  guest  you  bless 
Who  reverently  your  mystery  seeks. 

And  up  the  radiant  peopled  way 
That  opens  into  worlds  unknown. 

It  will  be  life's  delight  to  say, 

"  Heaven  is  not  heaven  for  me  alone." 

Rich  by  my  brethren's  poverty  ! 

Such  wealth  were  hideous.     I  am  blest 
Only  in  what  they  share  with  me. 

In  what  I  share  with  all  the  rest. 

—  Lucy  LarcojH, 


ONCE    IN    A    WHILE. 

It  is  easy  enough  to  be  pleasant 

When  life  flows  by  like  a  song. 
But  the  man  worth  while  is  one  who  will 
smile 

When  everything  goes  wrong. 
For  the  test  of  the  heart  is  trouble. 

And  it  always  comes  with  the  years, 
And  the  smile  that  is  worth  the  praises 
of  earth 

Is  the  smile  that  shines  through  tears. 

It  is  easy  enough  to  be  prudent 

When  nothing  tempts  you  to  stray. 
When  without  or  within  no  voice  of  sin 

Is  luring  your  soul  away. 
But  it's  only  a  negative  virtue 

Until  it  is  tried  by  fire, 
And  the  life  that  is  worth  the  honor  of 
earth 

Is  the  one  that  resists  desire. 

By  the  cynic,  the  sad,  the  fallen, 

Who  had  no  strength  for  the  strife, 
The  world's  highway  is  cumbered  to-day ; 

They  make  up  the  item  of  life. 
But  the  virtue  that  conquers  passion, 

And  the  sorrow  that  hides  in  a  smile, — 
It  is  these  that  are  worth  the  homage  of 
earth. 

For  we  find  them  but  once  in  a  while. 


Straight  is  the  line  of  duty, 
Curved  is  the  Une  of  beauty. 
Follow  the  straight  Une,  thou  shalt  see 
The  curved  Une  ever  follow  thee. 


70 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


^be   ^Boston  Coof^ino^Scbool 
Corpotation. 

Established  1879.  Incorporated  1882. 

School  :  372  Boylston  Street. 


BOARD  OF  MANAGERS,  1900. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL         -        -        -     President. 
Mrs.  STEPHEN   D.    BENNETT,   Vice-President. 


SXBCUTIVF  COMMITTI^B. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL, 

Miss  ELLEN  M.  CHANDLER, 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL, 
Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY, 

Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS, 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING, 
Mrs.  WINSLOW  WARREN, 
Miss  MINNA   TRAIN, 

Mrs.  EVERETT   MORSS. 
Mrs.  G.  E.  NILES,  Treasurer. 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary. 
Principal,   Miss  FANNIE  MERRITT  FARMER. 
Miss  CHARLOTTE  JAMES  WILLS. 
Miss  MARIA  W.  HOWARD. 


Assistants, 


TTbe  Boston  CooMuG^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of  Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics. 

PUBLISHED   BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL     JOURNAL     OF     THE     BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL   CORPORATION. 

Publication  Ofl&ce : 
372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

JANET  MCKENZIE  HILL     -        -        -        Editor. 


BEXJ.  M.  HILL, 
R.  B.  HILL, 


General  Manager. 
Business  Manager. 


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Ix  the  next(October-November)  num- 
ber, the  Boston  Cooking-School  Mag- 
AzixE  will  publish  the  first  of  a  series  of 
papers  on  "  Home  Nursing,"  by  M.  C. 
Limerick,  of  Drexel  Institute.  These 
papers  have  been  prepared  with  great 
care,  and  will  prove,  we  anticipate,  of 
interest  and  permanent  value  to  many 
readers. 

In  the  same  issue,  Miss  Catherine 
J.  Coolidge  continues  her  articles  on 
"Some  Duties  of  a  Waitress,"  taking 
up  the  subject  of  the  pantry,  wash- 
ing dishes,  care  of  leftovers  from  the 
meals,  etc.,  etc.  Kate  Sanborn,  in  her 
own  entertaining  style,  will  write  on  a 
"Dream  Luncheon";  besides,  the  author 
of  "  Adopting  an  Abandoned  Farm  " 
always  has  ideas  to  present.  Also,  Mrs. 
Hill  is  preparing  for  this  number  a 
special  article  on  "  The  Making  and 
Baking  of  Cake,"  illustrated  by.  half- 
tones of  the  original  objects. 


"  No  profit  grows  where  is  no  pleasure  ta'en." 
T^HE  vacation  season  is  on  once 
^  more.  The  spirit  of  recreation  per- 
vades the  atmosphere.  The  city,  with 
its  heat,  and  dust,  and  turmoil  of  traffic, 
no  longer  attracts.  The  constraint 
and    excitement    that    attend    life    in 


THE  BOSTO.V  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


71 


crowded  spaces  exhaust  vital  forces. 
It  is  an  unnatural  way  of  living  any- 
how. One  never  entirely  outlives  the 
desire  to  hie  away  to  the  wilderness  and 
go  a-fishing.  An  innate  longing  for  a 
closer  contact  with  Mother  Earth  seems 
to  allure,  as  ever,  the  race. 

The  ancient  Greek  lived  much  in  the 
open  air.  Even  his  places  of  amusement 
were  uncovered.  Both  the  literature 
and  art  of  this  people  bear  conclusive 
evidence  of  their  exceeding  fondness 
of  nature.  Besides  a  magnificent  pal- 
ace on  the  Palatine  mount,  Cicero  had 
some  fifteen  villas  in  various  parts  of 
Italy.  At  one  of  these  he  is  said  to 
have  entertained  Caesar  and  his  large 
retinue. 

But  by  far  the  best  feature  of  the 
annual  season  of  vacation  is  the  change 
it  affords, —  change  in  diet,  scene,  and 
associations  ;  a  brief  respite  from  the 
routine  and  humdrum  of  daily  toil. 
Change  itself  is  helpful.  Rotation  in 
occupation  benefits  man.  They  who 
accomplish  most  in  life  are  not  only 
most  active,  but  are  also  of  a  somewhat 
restless  disposition.  These  are  able 
to  concentrate  steadfastly  upon  a  single 
subject,  but  turn  away  readily  for  re- 
laxation, to  engage  in  another  line  of 
effort,  or  to  enter  upon  a  new  enter- 
prise. It  is  not  work,  so  much  as  it  is 
drudgery,  that  kills.  As  someone  has 
said,  happiness  here  consists  in  being 
busily  engaged  in  a  congenial  occu- 
pation, and  in  being  well  paid  for  it. 
To  a  complete  change  and  wholesome 
restfulness,  the  seaside  or  mountain  re- 
sort is  most  conducive.  There  wide  ex- 
panse of  horizon,  the  soft  outlines  of 
distant  mountains,  the  magical  trans- 
formation of  landscape  under  the  ever- 
varying  influence  of  light  and  shadow, 
tend  to  divert  thought  and  soothe  tired 


nerves  as  naught  else  save  music  can 
possibly  do. 

"  Better  than  all  measures 

Of  delightful  sound, 
Better  than  all  treasures 

That  in  books  are  found, 
Thy  skill  to  poet  were, 

Thou  scorner  of  the  ground,  " 
wrote  one  who  was  fond  of  nature  and 
a  lover  of  the  beautiful. 

From  a  sanitary,  hygienic,  or  soul- 
uplifting  point  of  view,  the  value  of  the 
yearly  outing  for  recreation  and  recup- 
eration of  physical  and  mental  strength 
cannot  be  too  highly  extolled.  Wide 
as  the  custom  now  reaches,  would  that 
the  blessing  might  be  extended  to  all ! 
And  who  needs  rest  and  recreation 
more,  or  who  would  receive  greater 
benefit  thereby,  than  the  faithful  house- 
wife in  countless  homes  ? 


T^HE  celebration  of  Old-Home  Day 
■*■  in  one  State,  and  of  Old-Home 
Week  in  another,  is  an  example  of-  a 
call  to  reminiscence  and  recreation  in 
the  vacation  season  that  might  well  be 
followed  by  other  Commonwealths. 
The  general  and  hearty  manner  in 
which  these  days  are  observed,  where 
the  custom  has  been  instituted,  is  in- 
dicative of  the  popularity  of  the  occa- 
sion. Annually,  from  far  and  wide,, 
larger  and  larger  numbers  are  making 
pilgrimages  to  the  old  homesteads,  there 
to  take  account  of  stock  and  recuperate 
powers  for  the  contest  of  another  year 
in  the  busy  marts  of  the  world. 

As  in  many  another  respect,  is  there 
any  place  for  rest  and  meditation  like 
the  old  home  ?  ''  Out  of  silence  comes 
thy  strength."  We  go  to  the  hills  and 
mountains  to  build  up  in  thought,  to 
make  resolution  that  henceforth,  instead 
of  drifting  aimlessly,  we  may  achieve  in 
accordance    wdth    plan    and    purpose- 


72 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


Deservedly  we  honor  those  who  are 
fond  of  home ;  yie  trait  thus  mani- 
fested is  ever  to  be  commended.  Even 
wholesome  family  pride,  at  which  the 
shallow  are  apt  to  sneer,  is  a  feeling  to 
cherish  rather  than  to  restrain.  We  ex- 
pect less  ill  of  one  who  has  lived  under 
the  benign  influence  of  a  good  home ; 
who  bears  a  name  of  which  he  is  proud, 
—  a  name  that  must  be  kept  free  from 
any  least  taint  of  dishonor. 

Whatever  tends  to  strengthen  the 
ties  of  family  life,  to  exalt  the  home, 
and  render  its  associations  pleasing 
and  abiding, —  are  not  these  matters 
worthy  of  the  finest  cultivation  ? 

"  W^hatsoever  things  are  true,  whatso- 
ever things  are  just,  whatsoever  things 
are  pure,  whatsoever  things  are  lovely, 
whatsoever  things  are  of  good  report ; 
if  there  be  any  virtue,  and  if  there  be 
any  praise,  think  on  these  things." 


"  We  might  call  this  the  age  of  sani- 
tary awakening,"  says  the  Medical  Com- 
pe?id,  and  yet  "  so  far  as  we  are  aware, 
the  town  authorities  do  not  attempt  to 
inspect  laundries  or  to  require  the  use 
of  antiseptics.  The  laundress  uses  as 
much  or  as  little  water  as  she  sees  fit. 
The  soap  made  use  of  may  be  the 
poorest  or  the  best ;  and,  if  the  soap 
pretends  to  be  antiseptic  or  medicated, 
it  is  doubtful  if  it  posesses  any  real 
antiseptic  value.  It  is  a  question 
whether  a  really  antiseptic  soap  for 
laundry  purposes  exists.  There  may 
be  such  soaps  on  the  market,  but  if  so, 
the  writer  does  not  know  of  them. 
It  would  be  very  desirable  if  those 
sending  washing  to  the  laundry  were 
obliged  to  certify  that  the  clothing  had 
not  been  made  use  of  by  patients 
suffering  from  contagious  diseases. 
Patients  who   have   tuberculosis,    etc.. 


should  be  prevented  from  sending 
their  clothing  to  laundries,  except  to 
such  as  are  specially  provided  for  by 
the  town  authorities.  All  laundries 
and  laundresses  should  be  duly  li- 
censed and  under  strict  inspection, 
and  each  tub  of  water  used  in  public 
laundries  should  contain  a  requisite 
amount  of  some  reliable  disinfectant." 
This  is  a  timely  warning.  To  a 
matter  of  vital  concern  attention  is  thus 
called.  There  are  laundries  that  meet 
every  sanitary  requirement  and  render 
in  service  all  that  could  be  desired,  but 
these  are  not  common.  For  security, 
people  must  become  aware  of  the  risks 
they  incur,  and  demand  the  proper 
safeguards  of  their  interests. 


Remember  that  you  must  behave  in 
life  as  at  a  banquet.  Is  anything 
brought  round  to  you  ?  Put  out  your 
hand  and  take  a  moderate  share.  Does 
it  pass  by  you  ?  Do  not  stop  it.  Is  it 
not  yet  come  ?  Do  not  yearn  in  desire 
toward  it,  but  wait  till  it  reaches  you. 
—  Epidetus. 


Let  the  first  satisfaction  of  appetite 
be  always  the  measure  to  you  of  eating 
and  drinking,  and  appetite  itself  the 
sauce  and  th6  pleasure.  Thus  you  will 
never  take  more  than  is  necessary,  nor 
will  you  want  cooks.  —  Ibid. 

No  one  who  is  a  lover  of  money,  a 
lover  of  pleasure,  or  a  lover  of  glory, 
is  likewise  a  lover  of  mankind,  but  only 
he  who  is  a  lover  of  virtue.  —  Ibid. 


Consider  that  you  do  not  thrive 
merely  by  the  food  in  your  stomach, 
but  by  the  elevation  of  your  soul. 

—  Ibid. 


After= Breakfast  Chat, 

By  Janet  M.   Hill. 


O  health  !  heahh  !  the  blessing  of  the  rich  1  the  riches  of  the  poor  1    Who  can  buy  thee  at 
too  dear  a  rate,  since  there  is  no  enjoying  the  world  wnthout  thee? — Ben /onson. 


*'  Am  I  my  brother's  keeper  ?  " 

That  what  a  man  is  physically,  men- 
tally, and  morally  depends  in  no  small 
measure  upon  the  food  he  eats,  is,  in 
these  days,  pretty  generally  believed ; 
in  a  certain  sense,  people  are  con- 
cerned in  this  matter  as  they  have 
never  been  before.  This  fact  is 
evinced  by  the  attention  given  to  the 
subject  of  food  and  feeding  in  the  lit- 
erature of  the  day.  We  have  had  sci- 
entific articles  by  professional  experts, 
and  the  practical  application  of  the 
truths  involved  in  these  articles  by  cul- 
inary experts ;  and  now,  latest  of  all, 
we  have  in  a  leading  periodical,  in 
"  Heprah  Hunt's  Journey  through  the 
Inferno,"  a  pictorial  representation  of 
the  fate  that  in  the  hereafter  awaits 
"bad  cooks.'' 

But,  after  all,  the  indisputable  fact  re- 
mains that  the  necessity  of  proper  food 
and  good  cooking  is  not  as  yet  taken 
seriously  by  the  community  at  large. 
How  can  it  be  when  good  cooking,  as 
such,  is  recognized  only  by  the  few? 
Diet  kitchens  in  schools,  hospitals,  and 
institutions  of  all  grades  and  kinds 
exist  merely  in  name.  In  some  of 
these  an  attempt  is  made  to  teach  the 
theory  of  cooking,  but  the  practical 
application  of  this  theory  is  rarely 
made.  Too  often  the  individual  in 
charge  of  the  diet  kitchen  has  no  voice 
in  the  purchase  of  supplies  or  in  their 
manipulation.      Where   large  numbers 


are  of  necessity  fed  at  low  cost,  in- 
dividual tastes  cannot  be  given  due 
attention;  and  yet  the  highest  attain- 
ment possible  to  an  individual  is 
what  each  should  claim  in  an  ideal 
condition.  Is  not  this  possible  aim 
that  which  each  school,  hospital,  or 
reformatory  institution  claims  for  it- 
self? And  is  not  the  food  supply 
the  very  foundation  stone  of  the  whole 
structure  ?  But,  with  rare  exceptions, 
the  selection  of  the  supplies  and  the 
cooking  itself  in  large  public  and  pri- 
vate institutions  are  known  to  be  in- 
different, if  not  notoriously  bad,  even 
when  considered  without  regard  to  in- 
dividual needs. 

In  hospitals,  where  the  sick  are  to  be 
lured  back  to  life  and  health,  where 
the  nurses  infringe  upon  the  laws  of 
health  and  regular  living ;  in  schools, 
where  the  worry  incident  to  promotion, 
and  the  excitement  of  a  life  in  which 
one  is  always,  as  it  were,  on  parade, 
the  dietary  needs  be  nourishing  and 
generous.  All  these  classes  of  in- 
dividuals have  appetites  too  discrim- 
inating to  find  satisfaction  in  crude, 
coarse,  and  imperfectly  prepared  food. 
Pupils  break  down  yearly,  not  from 
overstudy,  but  from  malnutrition,  the 
result  of  improper  feeding.  It  should 
be  the  duty  of  the  guardians  of  young 
men  and  women  to  consider  the  com- 
missary department  of  the   school   as 


74 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


well  as  its  course  of  study.  If  the 
latter  is  to  be  properly  assimilated,  first 
let  food  suitable  in  kind  and  sufficient 
in  quantity  be  provided. 

What  can  be  expected  from  the 
tables  of  preparatory  and  private 
schools  in  the  country,  when  Kate 
Hallady  Claghorn,  Ph.  D.,  of  Yale, 
says,  in  her  book,  "  The  College 
Training  of  Women,"  that  ''there  is 
scarcely  a  college  in  this  country  that 
sets  a  table  adequate  to  supply  the 
needs  of  the  young  and  growing  bodies 
and  the  actively  working  minds  of  its 
students  "  ?  And  yet  it  is  estimated  that 
the  dietary  at  the  average  hospital  and 
other  public  institution  is  below  even 
that  of  the  school. 

There  may  be  another  side  to  this 
question  that  requires  consideration. 
Has  the  student,  by  proper  home  train- 
ing, cultivated  a  taste  for  good,  whole 
some  food,  or  has  he  acquired  a  per- 
verted appetite  that  demands  nothing 
of  real  food  value?  Besides,  opinions 
differ  as  to  what  is  wholesome  food. 
For  instance,  the  eating  of  bread  and 
cereals  may  be  carried  to  excess,  and 
neither  of  those  is  wholesome  unless 
properly  cooked. 

If  fresh  meat  be  purchased  for  stews 
and  boiling,  it  needs  be  fresher  than 
for  roasting  or  it  will  not  be  palatable  ; 
then,  too,  time  is  required  for  the. cook- 
ing of  tough  meats.  Macaroni  may  be 
made,  with  proper  cooking,  into  many 
delectable  dishes  and  at  slight  expense ; 
so  may  rice,  a  cereal  held  so  often  in 


contempt  because  it  is  illy  prepared. 
Potatoes,  as  one  hospital  patient  said, 
"always  with  a  bone  in  them,'' and 
slack-baked  baker's  bread,  are  both 
conducive  to  indigestion. 

Intimately  connected  with  the  sub- 
ject oE  food  is  the  equally  important 
matter  of  the  water  supply.  This 
question  of  drinking-water  is  often 
the  hinge  on  which  the  whole  subject 
of  health  turns.  Whatever  a  family, 
or  an  institution,-  has  become  hab-' 
ituated  to  is  taken  for  granted  to  be 
all  right ;  but  in  the  country,  where 
sewers  are  unknown,  the  nearness  of 
a  cesspool  or  the  stable  yard  is  a  con- 
stant menace  to  health.  Indeed,  in  some 
soils,  contiguity  plays  but  a  small  part 
in  the  matter,  for  a  well  often  drains 
a  larger  surface  than  is  generally  real- 
ized. 

A  deep  well,  properly  situated,  where 
the  rainfall,  carrying  organic  matter, 
must  be  filtered  through  earth  and 
stone  to  reach  its  level,  would  seem  to 
offer  a  water  that  one  might  drink  with 
safety;  but  this  is  a  subject  that  must 
be  given  more  than  passing  attention. 
Who  would  willingly  take  the  chances  of 
a  water-borne  typhoid  case,  or  the  list- 
less inertia  of  malarial  poisoning,  as 
the  outcome  of  a  term  at  school  ? 

However,  the  water  supply  in  large 
schools  and  institutions  is  given  more 
attention  than  the  food,  and  danger 
from  this  source  is  restricted  largely  to 
the  country.  Here  it  should  receive 
the  attention  its  importance  demands. 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


75 


SEASONABLE  RECIPES, 

(In  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured 
after  sifting  once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a 
spoo?i  and  a  level  cupful  is  meant.  A  tablespoojiful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any 
designated  material  is  a  level  spoo7iful  of  such  material.) 


Green- Corn  Soup. 
Boil  the  cobs,  from  which  a  pint  of 
corn  pulp  has  been  removed,  in  water 
to  cover.  Scald  a  pint  of  milk  with  a 
slice  of  onion  ;  drain  the  water  from 
the  cobs ;  of  this  add  a  pint  to  the 
pulp,  and  let  simmer  fifteen  minutes ; 
remove  the  onion  from  the  milk,  and 
cook  in  it  one  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch diluted  with   a  litile  cold  milk  ; 


Eggs  Cooked  in  Shirring- Cups. 
Butter  a  shirring-cup,  break  the  shell 
of  the  ^gg,  and  turn  the  contents  into 
it,  taking  care  to  keep  the  yolk  whole  ; 
dust  with  salt,  add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  butter,  and  set,  in  a  dish  of  hot 
water,  into  the  oven;  cook  until  the 
yolk  is  set.  Bread  crumbs  alone,  or 
with  chopped  meat  stirred  into  tomato 
sauce,  or  cream,  may  be  put  into  the 


EGGS  COOKED   IN   SHIRRING-DISHES.     BOILED   EGG  IN    EGG  CUP. 


let  cook  ten  minutes,  then  add  the 
pulp,  a  teaspoonful  or  more  of  salt, 
and  a  dash  of  pepper.  The  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  beaten,  and  diluted  with  a 
tablespoonful  or  two  of  cream,  may 
be  stirred  into  the  soup  when  it  is 
taken  from  the  fire.  A  can  of  corn, 
with  a  pint  of  water,  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  green  corn  ;  but  in  this 
case  pass  through  a  sieve.  If  kornlet 
be  used,  the  soup  need  not  be  strained. 


bottom  of  the  cup,  then  the  egg  added 
and  covered  with  a  little  more  of  the 
mixture. 

Tomatoes  with  Macaroni  and  Cheese. 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  macaroni  in 
rapidly  boiling  salted  water  until  ten- 
der. Scald  one  pint  of  cream  over 
hot  water ;  add  half  a  pound  of  cheese 
cut  into  thin  shavings,  and  stir  until 
the  cheese  is  melted;  add  one  fourtli 
a  cup  of  butter  and  a  dash  of  salt  and 


76 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE. 


BAVARIOSE  OF  GINGER, 

paprica.       Have    ready,    baked,    in    a 
serving-dish,  five  or  six  tomatoes  (skin 
and  core  removed  before  baking);  dis- 
pose the  macaroni  in  a  wreath  around 
the  tomatoes,  pour  the  cheese  mixture 
over  the  whole,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Poached  Eggs  with  Croutons  of  Ham. 
Stir  one  cup  of  fine-chopped  cooked 
ham   into  one  cup  of  white  or  brown 
sauce ;  season  with  a  few  grains  of  cay- 
enne and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
Cut  out  some  thick  rounds  of   bread 
and  remove  the  centres ;    brush  over 
with  butter  and  brown  in   the  oven  ; 
fill  the  open  space  with  the  ham  mix- 
ture,  and    place    a   fresh    egg,    neatly 
poached,   on  the   top  of   each  round. 
Garnish  with  parsley  or  cress. 
Scrambled  Eggs   with    Tomatoes   a?id 
Green  Pepper. 
Remove    seeds    and   veins    from    a 
green    pepper    and    cut    it    in   shreds. 
Scald  five  tomatoes,  remove  the  skins, 
and  cut  in  quarters ;  cook  the  pepper 
and  tomatoes  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  until  the  liquid  is  reduced,  then 
season  with  salt  and  keep  hot.     Melt 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saute- 
pan,  pour  in  six  eggs,  beaten,  without 
separating,  until  a  full  spoonful  can  be 
taken  up,  and  season  with  salt.     Stir 
and  cook  until  the  eggs  become  thick 
and  creamy  ;  add  meanwhile  two  table- 


spoonfuls of  butter  in  pieces.  Turn 
on  to  a  hot  dish  and  surround  with 
the  tomato. 

Baked  Eggs  with   Cheese. 

Stamp  out  rounds  of  bread,  spread 
with  butter,  and  cover  with  thin  slices 
of  cheese.  Arrange  in  a  baking-dish  — 
one  that  can  be  sent  to  table  preferred 
—  break  a  fresh  egg  over  each  round 
of  bread  and  cheese,  dust  with  salt  and 
paprica,  and  set  in  the  oven  until  the 
eggs  are  cooked  to  taste. 

Rabbit  en  Casserole. 

Cut  the  rabbit  into  joints  for  serv- 
ing, dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  saute 
in  butter  until  a  golden  brown  on  all 
sides.  Then  put  into  the  casserole. 
Brown  an  onion  in  the  frying-pan; 
either  cut  in  halves,  so  that  it  may  be 
removed  from  the  casserole  before 
serving,  or  cut  in  rings,  when  it  should 
be  served  with  the  rabbit.  When  the 
onion  is  brown  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter;  cook  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
in  it,  add  a  pint  of  water  gradually, 
also  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over 
the  rabbit ;  add  boiling  water  to  half 
cover,  also  a  piece  of  bay  leaf;  cover 
and  let  simmer  in  the  oven  an  hour 
or  more.  When  tender  add  a  scant 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  three  or 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  and,  if 
desired,  a  dozen  small  button  onions 


FRENCH  CASSEROLE. 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE. 


77 


cooked  until  tender  in  boiling  water. 
If  a  thicker  sauce  be  wished,  mix  a 
little  cornstarch  with  cold  water  and 
stir  into  the  liquid ;  let  cook  ten  min- 
utes, then  add  the  wine  and  lemon 
juice. 

Virginia  Smothered  Chicken,  Cream 
Gravy. 

Cut  down  each  side  the  backbone 
of  a  tender  chicken  and  remove  the 
bone  with  the  internal  organs ;  wash 
and  wipe  and  set  on  the  rack  in  a 
baking  pan  with  a  cup  of  hot  water. 
When  beginning  to  brown,  dust  with 


frequent  basting.  For  serving,  cut  in 
slices  parallel  to  the  backbone.  Ten 
or  twelve  people  may  be  served  from 
a  cut  of  this  size.  Serve  with  rounds 
of  apple,  from  which  the  skin  and  core 
have  been  removed,  simmered  until 
tender  in  currant  jelly  reduced  with 
hot  water.  If  preferred,  the  apples 
may  be  simmered  in  sugar  and  water. 
In  either  case  select  tart  apples. 
Baked  Cauliflower. 
Boil  a  cauliflower,  taking  care  that 
it  be  rather  under  than  over  done. 
Trim  the   stalk  so  that  the  cauliflower 


TIP  OF  VENISON   SADDLE  ROASTED. 


salt  and  cover  with  a  tablespoonful, 
each,  of  butter  and  flour  creamed  to- 
gether; baste  every  ten  minutes  until 
browned,  then  remove.  To  the  liquid 
add  a  cup  of  cream  or  rich  milk,  salt 
and  pepper,  if  desired,  and  pour  over 
the  chicken. 

Tip  of  Ve?iiso7i  Saddle  Roasted. 
Lard  the  tip  of  a  well-dressed  saddle 
of  venison  with  firm  salt  pork ;  brush 
over  also  with  butter,  or  lay  strips  of 
fat  salt  pork  over  the  top  after  dredg- 
ing with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  A  tip 
weighing  four  pounds  will  need  cook 
about   three-fourths  of   an   hour,  with 


will  stand  level ;  do  not  remove  the 
tender  leaves.  Put  in  a  well-buttered 
baking-dish  that  may  be  sent  to  the 
table,  and  dust  with  salt  and  black 
pepper.  Have  prepared  a  cup  of  sauce 
made  of  chicken  broth ;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  thick  cream  and  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  grated  cheese  (American  fac- 
tory or  Parmesan).  Pour  the  sauce 
over  the  cauliflower,  so  that  it  fills  up 
all  the  crevices.  Sprinkle  a  layer  of 
grated  cheese  over  the  whole  and  bake 
in  a  rather  quick  oven  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  Substitute  milk  for  chicken 
stock  if  desired. 


78 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE. 


Egg  Plant  au  Gratin. 
Peel  an  &gg  plant,  cut  in  inch  cubes ; 
let  simmer  in  a  little  water  until  tender, 
then  drain  in  collander,  pressing  out 
all  of  the  juice.  Fry  a  grated  onion  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  add  the 
&gg  plant,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  wdth  salt  and  pepper.  Turn 
into  a  baking-dish,  cover  with  half  a 
cup  of  cracker  crumbs  mixed  with  two 


salt  and  pepper,  add  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  fill  the 
tomatoes  with  the  mixture ;  cover  the 
top  of  the  mushroom  filling  with  but- 
tered crumbs,  to  which  a  little  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  has  been  added. 
Bake  about  twelve  minutes.  Serve  on 
slices  of  toast  or  croutons. 

Blackberry  Shortcake. 
Sift    together    three   cups  of    pastry 


BLACKBERRY  SHORTCAKE. 


tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and 
bake  until  the  crumbs  are  browned. 
Tofuatoes  a  la  St.  Jacques. 
Remove  centres  from  tomatoes  and 
dust  inside  with  salt  and  pepper.  Peel 
a  cup  and  a  half  of  small  button  mush- 
room caps,  sprinkle  with  lemon  juice, 
then  saute  to  a  delicate  yellow  color 
in  butter ;  remove  the  mushrooms 
and  prepare  a  cup  of  white  sauce ;  add 
tlie    mushrooms,  season  to  taste  with 


flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  six 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder ; 
with  the  tips  of  the  fingers,  well  floured, 
work  in  one -third  a  cup  of  butter; 
wet  with  about  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
milk  and  water  mixed  to  a  soft  dough  ; 
spread  in  two  buttered  pans,  smooth- 
ing the  dough  with  a  knife  or  spoon. 
When  baked,  butter  the  under  crust, 
and  put  together  with  two  baskets  of 
blackberries  that  have   been   standing 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


79 


mixed  with  granulated  sugar  for  some 
time.  Sprinkle  the  berries  on  top  of 
the  cake  with  powdered  sugar.  The 
berries  between  the  cakes  and  a  part 
of  those  on  top  may  be  mashed  if 
desired. 

Bavariose  of  Ginger. 
To    a    cup   of  double  cream  add  a 
cup   of  milk,   and  whip  with  a  cream 
whip,  removing  and  draining  the  froth 


to  set,  fold  in  the  cream  and  turn  into 
a  mould.  Serve  with  whipped  cream 
or  with  preserved  ginger. 

Pineapple  with  Rice  Cream. 
Cook  a  cup  of  washed  rice  five  min- 
utes in  boiling  water ;  drain,  add  a 
quart  of  milk,  and  cook  over  hot  water 
until  tender,  and  the  milk  is  absorbed ; 
then  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-fourth  a  cup 


PINEAPPLE  WITH   RICE  CREAM. 


as  it  rises.  Add  to  the  cream  that 
does  not  whip  enough  milk  to  make 
one  cup  ;  scald,  and  cook  in  this  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  with  two- 
thirds  a  cup  of  sugar ;  when  thickened 
slightly  add  one-fourth  a  box  of  gela- 
tine softened  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
cold  water,  and  strain  ;  when  cool  add 
preserved  ginger  chopped  fine  and  gin- 
ger syrup  to  half  fill  a  cup,  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  when  beginning 


of  butter,  or  half  a  cup  of  cream,  with 
wine,  lemon,  or  vanilla  for  flavoring. 
Decorate  the  bottoms  of  six  small  tim- 
bale  moulds  with  rings  of  angelica  and 
candied  cherries,  the  opposite  sides  with 
crescents  of  angelica  and  cherries,  and 
fill  with  the  rice ;  also  fill  a  plain  mould 
with  rice,  let  cook  standing  in  boiling 
water  in  the  oven  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes. Invert,  on  a  serving- dish,  the 
timbales   on   the    plain    mould.      Sur- 


8o 


THE   BOSTON  COOKIXG-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE. 


round  with  quarter  slices  of  pineapple 
covered  with  syrup,  but  not  cooked. 
Pour  the  syrup  around  or  serve  apart. 
Ca?iteloupe  Ice  in  Baskets. 
Remove  the  edible  part  of  a  cante- 
loupe,  leaving  the  shell  in  the  shape 
of  a  basket.  (Use  one  large  basket 
or  a  small  one  for  each  service.)  To 
three  pints  of  pulp  add  one  cup  and  a 


made  of  the  shell  from  which  the  pulp 
was  taken. 
Salpiam    of  Fruit    in    Muskmelons 

Halved. 
Chill  small  muskmelons,  cut  in 
halves,  and  remove  the  seeds,  but  re- 
tain the  pulp  intact.  Fill  with  a  chilled 
mixture  of  sliced  peaches,  shredded 
pineapple,  and  sections  of  orange  re- 


MUSKMELON   SALAD   (SWEET). 


half  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  five 
lemons ;  mix,  and  pass  through  a  fine 
sieve;  freeze  as  usual.  Serve  in  the 
chilled  shell  or  shells. 

Melon  Salad  (Sweet). 
Cut  the  edible  portion  of  a  chilled 
melon  into  small  cubes.  Mix  together 
half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  mace  ;  sprinkle  over  a  quart  of 
the  cubes,  toss  together,  and  serve 
from   a  salad-bowl,  or  from   a  basket 


moved  from  the  membrane  and  mixed 
with  sugar. 

Pineapple  Jelly. 
Cook  one  pint  of  grated  pineapple 
with  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar  ten 
minutes ;  let  cool,  then  add  the  juice 
of  two  lemons.  Soak  one-third  a  pack- 
age of  gelatine  in  half  a  cup  of  cold 
water  and  dissolve  over  hot  water ; 
strain  into  the  first  mixture,  and,  if  de- 
sired, tint  a  delicate  green ;  turn  into 
a    mould    to    chill    and    become    set. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZTYE. 


8l 


Serve  with  cream  and  sugar  or  cut  in 
cubes,  as  a  garnish  to  a  mould  of  ice 
cream. 

Lemo7iade. 

Boil  one  pint  of  sugar  and  one  pint 
of  water  ten  minutes ;  let  cool,  add 
three  pints  of  water,  one  pint  of  lemon 
juice,  and  two  lemons  cut  in  thin  slices. 
Cool  on  ice. 

Hot  Mapk  Sauce  for  Ice- Cream. 

Boil   two   cups  of  maple  syrup  and 


gelatine,  softened  in  a  very  little  cold 
water,  and  half  a  cup  of  sugar ;  strain 
into  a  pan  set  in  ice  water,  stir  until 
the  mixture  is  cool  and  begins  to  thick- 
en, then  fold  into  it  gradually  the  froth 
from  two  cups  of  thin  cream,  and  turn 
into  a  mould.  Let  stand  packed  in 
equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  about  three 
hours. 

Peach  Ice- Cream. 
Remove  the  skin   and   stones,   and 


PEACH    ICE-CREAM. 


three-fourths  a  cup  of  cream,  or  one- 
third  a  cup  of  butter,  about  ten  min- 
utes, or  until  the  syrup  will  form  a  soft 
ball  when  tried  in  cold  water.  Pour  at 
once  over  slices  of  ice-cream.  If  there 
is  delay  in  serving,  let  stand  in  boiling 
water  a  few  moments. 

Caramel  Mousse. 
Cook  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar 
to  caramel,  and  dissolve  with  half  a 
cup  of  hot  water ;  add  the  water  very 
gradually,  as  the  liquid  will,  foam  and 
steam  ;  keep  hot  until  the  caramel  dis- 
solves,  then   add  one    teaspoonful   of 


press  enough  peaches  through  a  potato 
ricer  to  make  a  cup  and  a  half  of  pulp  ; 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  cup 
and  a  fourth  of  sugar,  and  turn  into 
the  can  of  a  freezer  packed  for  freez- 
ing ;  let  stand  until  chilled,  then  add 
a  pint  of  thin  cream,  and  freeze  as 
usual.  Pack  in  a  brick  mould,  and 
when  turned  from  the  mould  surround 
with  sliced  peaches,  sugared  and  chilled. 
Sprinkle  the  whole  with  chopped  pis- 
tachios or  almonds. 

Fruit  Fufich. 
Boil    one    quart    of  water   and  one 


82 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


pint  of  sugar  ten  minutes ;  skim  and 
set  aside  to  cool.  Now  add  one  pint 
of  grape  juice,  one  pint  of  orange  juice, 
and  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  Let 
stand  half  an  hour  or  longer,  and, 
just  before  serving,  add  a  piece  of  ice 
or  a  scant  pint  of  ice-cold  water.  A 
sliced  banana,  lemon,  or  orange  may 
also  be  added  to  the  bowl. 
Grape  Juice. 
Wash    and    stem    eight    pounds    of 


in  boiling  water,  a  few  at  a  time,  so  as 
to  retain  shape.  Strain  from  the  water, 
and  for  each  pound  of  apple  make  a 
syrup  with  one  cup  of  the  apple  water 
and  half  a  cup  of  sugar ;  reheat  in 
the  syrup,  and  store  in  tight-closed 
sterilized  jars. 

Green-Corn  Griddle  Cakes.. 
Use  sweet  corn  too  old  for  the  table. 
Score  the   kernels    lengthwise  of   the 
ear  and  press  out   the    pulp,  leaving 


MUFFINS.  WAFFLE  IRON,  AND  WAFFLES. 


grapes ;  add  one  quart  of  cold  water, 
and  let  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  stir  and 
mash  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  strain 
through  a  jelly  bag  ;  add  half  a  pound  of 
granulated  sugar  to  each  quart  of  juice, 
let  boil  twelve  minutes,  remove  scum, 
fill  heated  bottles,  and  seal  while  hot. 
Canned  Porter  Apples. 
Pare  the  apples,  cut  in  quarters,  and 
remove  the  cores  ;    cook  until   tender 


the  hull  upon  the  ear.  To  one  pint  of 
pulp  add  one  cup  of  flour  and  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and 
pepper.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
add  one  cup  of  milk,  and  gradually 
stir  into  the  flour  and  corn  pulp ;  fold 
in  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff, 
and  bake  on  a  griddle. 

Green- Com  Oysters. 
To  one  pint  of  green-corn  pulp  add 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


83 


half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of 
black  pepper,  two  beaten  eggs,  and 
enough  flour  to  hold  the  pulp  together. 
Saute  by  spoonfuls  in  a  frying-pan, 
first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other. 
Conimeal  Muffins. 

Cream  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter ; 
add  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar,  then 
two  eggs,  beaten,  without  separating, 
until  light-colored  and  thick  ;  into  this 
stir,  alternately,  one  cup  of  milk,  two 
cups  of  sifted  flour,  and  one  cup  of 
cornmeal  sifted  with  four  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  thoroughly, 
and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  hot, 
well-buttered  gem-pans. 

Blueberry  Muffins. 

Cream  one -third  a  cup  of  butter; 
add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar,  a  well- 
beaten  egg,  and  three-fourths  a  cup  of 
milk,  alternately,  with  one  cup  and 
three-fourths  of  flour  sifted  with  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  add  also 
a  cup  of  berries  mixed  with  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  flour.  Bake  in  a  buttered 
agate  muffin  -  pan  about  twenty -five 
minutes. 

Entire-  Wheat  Muffins. 

Sift  together  one  cup,  each,  of  entire- 
wheat  and  white  flour,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and 
three  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder ;  mix  with  one  beaten  egg, 
to  which  one  cup  and  a  fourth  of  milk 
has  been  added ;  lastly,  add  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and 
bake  in  well-buttered  roll-pans. 
Rich  Waffles. 

Sift  together  one  cup  and  a  half  of 


flour,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  one- fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt ;  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs 
with  one  cup  of  heavy  cream,  and, 
lastly,  fold  in  the  stiff  -  beaten  whites 
of  two  eggs.  Bake  on  hot,  well- 
buttered  waflle  iron,  first  on  one  side 
and  then  on  the  other. 

Waffles  with  Sour  Milk. 

Sift  together  one  cup  and  a  fourth 
of  flour,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda; 
mix  with  one  cup  of  thick  sour  milk 
added  to  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs ; 
add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  and  fold  in  the  whites  of  two 
eggs. 

Fla7inel  Cakes. 

Sift  together  two  cups  and  one-half 
of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
four  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder;  mix  with  two  cups  of  sweet 
milk  added  to  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs;  lastly,  fold  in  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  beaten  stiff.  Bake  on  a  well- 
oiled  griddle. 

Dutch  Peach  Cake. 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  flour,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  sifted  soda,  and  two  level  tea- 
spoonfuls of  cream-of-tartar ;  with  the 
tips  of  the  fingers  work  in  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  butter ;  beat  an  ^gg^  add  a 
cup  of  milk,  and  stir  into  the  dry  in- 
gredients ;  turn  into  a  buttered  pie-pan, 
spread  even,  and  press  into  the  top 
of  the  dough  peaches  pared  and  quar- 
tered. Sift  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  one  of  cinnamon  over  the 
top.  Bake,  and  serve  with  butter, 
with  hard  sauce  or  a  hot  pudding 
sauce. 


84 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


VEGETARIAN  MENUS  FOR  ONE  WEEK   IN  AUGUST. 


(EGOS,    MILK,    CHEESE    AND    BUTTER  INCLUDED.) 

We  fat  all  creatures  else,  to  fat  us. —  Hamlet,  iv.,  3. 


BIiEA.KFAST. 

Gluten  Breakfast  Cereal. 

Scrambled  Eggs, 

with  Stewed  Tomatoes  and  Green  Peppers. 

Rye-Meal  Muffins,  Berries. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Potato  Soup. 

Macaroni  with  Tomato  and  Cheese. 

String  Beans. 

Cauliflower  with  Mayonnaise. 

Chocolate  Ice-Cream.  Coffee. 

HTTP  PER. 

Entire-Wheat  Breadsticks. 

SUced  Peaches,  Cream. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grape-Nuts,  Cream. 

Eggs  Shirred  in  Tomatoes. 

Swedish  Rolls.  Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Broiled  Mushrooms  on  Toast. 

Cabbage  Salad,  Boiled  Dressing. 

Boston  Brownbread. 

Apple  Pudding.     Tea. 

DINNER. 

Puree  of  Mushrooms. 
Cabbage  au  Gratin.       Baked  Squash. 
Apple-and-Celery  Salad  (Mayonnaise  Dress- 
ing)- 

Banana  Ice  Cream. 
Coffee. 


RREARFAST. 

BREAKFAST. 

Vitos,  Sliced  Peaches,  Cream. 

Boiled  Rice,  Sugar,  Cream. 

Broiled  Tomatoes.      Rye-Meal  Muffins. 

Baked  Eggs  with  Cheese. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Cornmeal  Muffins,  Berries. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Blackberry  Shortcake. 

LUNCHEON. 

C 

Cottage  Cheese.    Celery.     Crackers. 
Cereal  Coffee. 

Graham  Bread  Toasted. 

Celery  au  Gratin. 
Dressed  Tomatoes. 

DINNER. 

70 

Cream-of -Celery  Soup. 

Grapes.                            Tea. 

C/3 
> 

Green-Corn  Custard.     Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato  Salad. 

DINNER. 

Stewed  Pears  in  Lemon  Jelly. 

Bean  Soup,  Toasted  Crackers. 

Cream.                         Coffee. 

Macaroni  with  Tomatoes  and  Cheese. 

SUPPER. 

Egg  Plant. 

Milk  Toast  (Entire- Wheat). 

Corn  on  the  Cob. 

Cottage  Cheese.     New  Rye  Bread. 

Lettuce-and-Egg  Salad. 

Apple  Sauce.         Tea. 

Bread  Pudding  with  Meringue.    Coffee. 

BREAKFAST. 

BREAKFAST. 

Vitos,  Sliced  Peaches,  Cream 

Grapes. 

Green-Corn  Fritters. 

Barley  Crystals,  Cream. 

Yeast  Rolls  (reheated).        Coffee. 

Tomato  Omelet.     French-Fried  Potatoes. 

DINNER. 

Zwieback.                   Coffee. 

Vegetable  Soup  (Macedoine). 

LUNCHEON. 

•n 

Stuffed  Onions.     Spinach  with  Eggs. 

Succotash.      New  Rye  Bread  and  Butter. 

2 

Celery-and-Green-Pepper  Salad. 

Custard  Pie.                          Tea. 

5 

Rice  Pudding  with  Raisins. 

DINNER. 

> 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Cream-of-Rice  Soup. 

< 

SUPPER. 

Entire-Wheat  Breadsticks. 

Cream-Tomato  Toast. 

Cheese  Souffle. 

Lettuce-and-Cheese  Salad. 

Lettuce-and-Celery  Salad. 

Shredded- Wheat  Biscuit. 

Grape-Juice  Jelly,  Whipped  Cream. 

Tea. 

Cafe  Noir. 

BREAKFAST. 

Gluten  Breakfast  Cereal, 

Baked  Apples,  Cream. 

Baked  Potatoes. 

Eggs  Cooked  in  Shell. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


LUNCHEON. 

Cream  of  Spinach,  Croutons. 

Scotch  Shortbread. 

Pickled  Beets. 

Sliced  Peaches. 

Tea. 


DINNER. 

Cheese  Custard. 

Curried  Vegetables. 

Cucumber-and-Tomato 

Salad. 

Baked  Tapioca  Pudding. 

Cafe  Noir. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


85 


SEASONABLE  MENUS  FOR  ONE  WEEK  IN  SEPTEMBER. 

He  that  lives  upon  hope  will  die  fainting. — Benj .  Fratikhn. 


BKEA.KFAST. 

Grapes. 

Boiled   Rice,    Grated  Cheese,  Butter. 

Eggs   Scrambled  with  Green  Peppers. 

Entire-Wheat  Muffins.     Coffee. 

Tomato  Soup.     Chicken  en  Casserole. 

Green  Corn  au  naturel. 

Lettuce-and-Celery  Salad, 

Boiled  Dressing. 

Blackberry  Shortcake. 

Cafe  Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Tomato  Salad. 

Bread  and  Butter.         Wafers. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Gluten  Breakfast  Cereal. 

Baked  Apples,  Sugar,  Milk. 

Broiled  Salt  Mackerel,  Cream. 

Mashed  Potatoes.        Dressed  Cucumbers. 

Cornmeal  Muffins.  Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 
Cream  of  Celery  (Chicken). 

Baked  Loin  of  Veal,  Stuffed. 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes.     Breaded  Egg  Plant. 

Cabbage-and-Green-Pepper  Salad. 

Sliced  Peaches,  Cream.        Cafe  Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Green-Corn  Chowder. 

Crackers.     Pickled  Tomatoes  (Green). 

Rye  Bread.      Cottage  Cheese.     Apple  Sauce. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grape-Nuts,  Berries,  Sugar,  Cream. 

Veal  and  Peas  in  Curry  Sauce. 

Baked  Potato  Cakes.  Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Vitos  Muffins.     Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cold  Boiled  Tongue  Sliced  Thin. 

Stewed  Tomatoes  in  Green  Peppers. 

Baking-Powder  Biscuit  (Entire-Wheat). 

Watermelon  Salad.     Tea. 

DINNER. 

Cream-of  Corn  Soup. 

Steamed  Fore  Quarter  of  Mutton, 

Caper  Sauce. 

Boiled  Potatoes.    Baked  Squash.     Buttered  Beets. 

Celery-and-Apple  Salad. 

Peach  Ice-Cream.  Coffee. 


BREAKFAST. 

Melons. 

Vitos,   Sugar,  Milk. 

Hashed  Mutton  on  Shredded-Wheat-Biscuit 

Toast. 

Pickled  Beets.    Popovers.    Cereal  Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

I  Diced  Tongue  au  Gratin  (Flavored  with 

Celery). 

Baked  Potatoes.     Sliced  Peaches.      Tea. 

DINNER. 

Mutton  Broth  with  Macaroni. 

Sirloin  Steak,    Bernaise  Sauce. 
Mashed  Turnips.         Spinach. 

Potato-and-Beet  Salad.      Grape  Whip. 
Coffee. 


BREAKFAST. 

Quaker  Oats,  Peaches,  Cream,  Sugar. 

Cold  Veal  Sliced  Thin.   Glazed  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Waffles.  Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Veal  Broth  with  Tapioca. 

Mutton  Chops,  Breaded,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes.        Peas. 

Cole-slaw.  Grape  Sherbet. 

White  Cake.  '  Cafe  Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Creamed  Oysters. 

Olives.  Toast. 

Berries. 

Cake.  Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Barley  Crystals,  Sugar,  Cream. 

Corn  Omelet. 

Mutton  Hashed  with  Green  Peppers. 

Virginia  Batter  Bread.     Cereal  Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Curried  Oysters.    Boiled  Rice. 

Peaches  in  Lemon  Jelly. 

Cereal  Coffee. 
DINNER, 

Mock  Bisque  Soup,  Croutons. 

Boiled  Swordfish,  Pickle  Sauce. 
Onions  in  Cream  Sauce.      Boiled  Potatoes. 

Spinach  Salad. 

Green-Tomato  Pie,     Cottage  Cheese. 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST. 

Baked  Apples. 

Gluten  Breakfast  Cereal, 

Cream. 

Veal  in  Brown  Sauce. 

Hashed  White  Potatoes. 

Sliced  Tomatoes. 

Waffles.  Coffee. 


LUNCHEON. 

Swordfish  Salad. 

New  Rye  Bread  and  Butter. 

Apple  Pie.    Cottage  Cheese. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


DINNER. 

Cream-of -Lima-Bean  Soup. 

Roast  Venison,  Apple  Sauce. 

String  Beans. 

Celery  Salad. 

Grape  Mousse.     Coffee. 


86 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


SPECIAL  MENU  FOR  MIDSUMMER, 

GRAND    DINNER. 

Let  me  bid  you  welcome  to  your  country,  and  the  longing  expectation  of  the 
friends  that  have  almost  languished  for  the  sight  of  yo\x.—Tke  Antiquary,  i. 

MENU. 

Pim-olas.  Salted  Pecans. 

Anchovy  Canapes  or  Little-Neck  Clams. 
Consomme  en  Tasse. 
Broiled  Whitefish,  Maitre  d'PIotel  Butter.     Dressed 
Cucumbers.     Lattice  Potatoes. 
Breaded  Lamb  Chops,  Small  Lima  Beans. 
Cauliflower,  Hollandaise  Sauce. 
Pineapple  Sherbet.         Philadelphia  Capon,  Roasted. 
Broiled  Fresh  Mushrooms  on  Toast.        Celery  Salad.        Peach  Ice-Crfam.      Cake. 
Camembert.         Xeufchatel.         Toasted  Crackers.     Bar-le-duc  Jelly. 

Coffee. 


LAWN    PETE. 

This  trim  sward  of  velvet  green 
Were  carpet  for  the  fairy  queen. 


Scott. 


MENU. 

Iced  Bouillon. 

Sandwiches  :  Bread  and  Butter,  Sardine^   Cream  Cheese,  and  Nuts. 

Lobster  Salad.         Chicken  Salad.         Salad   Rolls.     Celery.     Olives,     Salted  Nuts. 

Peach  Sherbet.  Bisque  Ice-Cream.        Assorted  Cakes. 

Coffee.  Fruit  Punch. 


MENU    II.     (Simple.) 

Individual  Moulds  of  Chicken,  Mayonnaise  of  Celery.     Rolls. 

Assorted  Cakes  and  Wafers. 

Peach  Ice-Cream.     Cocoa  Frappe. 

Lemon.ade. 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


^7 


CONCERNING  MENUS  AND  RECIPES. 


In  August  vegetables  are  plentiful 
and  palatable,  and,  if  one  is  inclined 
ever  to  try  the  vegetarian's  diet,  this  is 
perhaps  an  auspicious  season  in  which 
to  test  its  virtues.  But  strong  diges- 
tive organs  are  needed  to  transform' 
many  vegetable  products  into  assimi- 
lable material,  and  the  suggestion  is 
offered  that  at  least  milk  and  eggs  be 
retained  as  a  part  of  the  diet,  until  one 
has  satisfied  himself  that  a  complete 
change  to  the  custom  of  the  vegetarian 
is  adapted  to  his  individual  case.  In- 
deed, without  entering  into  the  com- 
parative merits  of  animal  and  vege- 
table food,  it  would  seem,  since  no 
sentient  life  is  taken  in  the  use  of  eggs 
and  milk  for  food,  and  since  eggs,  at 
least,  are  free  from  microbian  infec- 
tion, that,  taking  the  food  value  of  pro- 
teid  into  consideration,  it  were  well  to 
retain  these  products  to  supplement 
the  lack  of  this  element  in  vegetable 
foods.  This  plan  would  obviate  one 
of  the  most  serious  objections  to  a 
strictly  vegetarian  diet,  namely,  the 
large  quantity  of  matter  that  must  be 
ingested  in  order  to  secure  the  proper 
proportion  of  this  important  principle. 

Cellulose,  the  framework  of  all  vege- 
table substances,  is,  at  best,  irritable 
to  the  digestive  tract.  Of  course  the 
quantity  and  toughness  of  cellulose  in 
vegetable  products  depend  much  upon 
the  kind  of  plant,  and  the  soil,  and 
the  season  in  which  it  is  grown ;  but 
under  the  most-  favorable  cuUivation 
this  framework  cannot  be  entirely  elim- 
inated, so  that,  first  of  all,  thorough 
cooking,  by  which  it  is  softened,  is 
enjoined ;  soft  water  is  an  aid  in  this 
process,  and,  where  this  is  not  at  hand, 


the  solvent  property  of  the  water 
may  be  enhanced  by  the  use  of  a  few 
grains  of  cooking-soda.  This  addition 
is  less  objectionable  in  the  case  of 
strong-juiced  vegetables,  like  cabbage 
and  onions,  from  which  the  water  is 
to  be  carefully  drained  before  serving. 
Quite  a  different  plan  should  be  pur- 
sued with  the  sweet-juiced  vegetables, 
as  peas  and  young  beans.  Of  these 
soda  would  desfroy  the  delicate  green 
color,  while  salt  would  intensify  it ; 
little  salt,  however,  should  be  used,  as 
the  water  in  which  these  vegetables 
are  cooked  holds  in  solution  much  of 
the  sweet  juices  and  mineral  salts,  their 
most  valuable  constituents,  and  should 
be  retained  for  serving  with  them. 

Rapid  cooking  is  desirable  for  strong- 
juiced  vegetables,  while  a  gentle  sim- 
mering is  preferable  for  the  sweet- 
juiced  varieties. 

Cauliflower  is  richer  even  than  cab- 
bage in  proteid,  the  nutrient  value  of 
cabbage  being  one  part  proteid  to  four 
of  carbohydrate,  so  that  caulitiower 
served  on  entire-wheat  bread,  toasted, 
and  enriched  with  a  white  sauce,  to 
which  the  yolks  of  two  or  more  eggs 
have  been  added,  would  seem  to  pro- 
vide the  full  measure  of  needful  proteid, 
and  in  a  form  that  even  the  most  pro- 
nounced opponent  of  the  vegetarian 
might  consider  satisfactory. 

If  properly  taken  care  of  after  the 
meal,  cold  vegetables  dressed  as  salads 
are  most  appetizing  at  this  season. 
The  chief  desiderata  are  tenderness  of 
the  vegetables,  just  enough  dressing 
and  no  more,  and  a  chilled  state  when 
served. 

Cheese    combines    well    with    many 


ss 


THE  BOSTO.V  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZIXE. 


vegetables,  as  it  does  also  with  grains 
and  macaroni.  When  delicately  cooked 
and  diluted  with  appropriate  ingredi- 
ents, it  may  be  used,  but  more  spar- 
ingly than  in  the  season  when  the 
function  of  digestion  is  more  vigorous. 

In  the  seasonable  menus,  the  chicken 
en  casserole  may  be  cooked  by  the 
recipe  for  rabbit  en  casserole  ;  the  lat- 
ter was  called  for  by  one  of  our  sub- 
scribers in  California.  Here  the  sea- 
son for  rabbits  is  restricted  to  Novem- 
ber and  December.  In  some  localities 
the  season  for  venison  begins  the  mid- 
dle of  August :  in  others  it  is  later.  A 
tip  of  saddle  of  venison,  in  season, 
with  tiank  removed,  may  be  purchased 
for  twenty-five  cents  per  pound,  and 
thus  cut,  since  also  game  is  notably 
free  from  fat,  it  has  little  waste,  and  is. 
in  realit}-,  more  economical  than  a  roast 
of  beef  or  mutton.  If  pork  or  bacon 
fat  be  discarded  for  basting,  the  joint 
may  be  completely  enclosed  in  a  paste 
of  liour  and  water;  this  will  keep  in 
the  juices  and  obviate  basting.  A 
cress,  celer)^,  or  lettuce  salad  should 
accompany  this  dish,  as  also  currant 
jelly  or  apple  sauce. 

We  give  in  this  issue  recipes  for  waf- 
fles and  various  hot  breads,  but  in 
realit}-  September  is  often  a  hot  month, 
when  it  were  well  to  omit  hot  bread 
from  the  menu  except  on  occasion. 

Mousses  and  parfaits,  the  peculiar 
texture  of  which  is  produced  by  freez- 


ing whipped  cream,  are  easily  prepared 
ices.  The  possible  combinations  for 
these  are  limited  only  by  the  ingenuity 
of  those  who  prepare  them.  As  cream 
is  a  rich  product,  it  is  well,  when  con- 
venient, to  serve  with  them  a  fruit  or 
water  ice,  selecting  such  an  one  as  will 
harmonize  with  the  flavor  given  to  the 
cream.  A  pineapple  sherbet  accom- 
panying a  peach  mousse,  or  an  orange 
sherbet  served  with  a  strawberry 
mousse,  are  truly  delectable  combina- 
tions. Xo  cooking  is  called  for  in 
these  dishes.  The  ideal  preparation  for 
a  mousse  is  simply  fruit  juice  or  pulp 
mixed  with  sugar  and  combined  with 
whipped  cream  :  but,  as  the  mixture  of 
juice  and  sugar  is  rarely  of  a  consist- 
ency to  combine  perfectly  with  the 
froth  of  the  cream  without  settling  to 
the  bottom  of  the  mould,  a  small  quan- 
tit}'  of  gelatine,  softened  in  cold  water, 
and  dissolved  by  standing  in  hot  water, 
or  over  the  teakettle,  may  be  added, 
when  properly  chilled.  A  teaspoonful 
of  gelatine  to  a  cup  of  juice  or  pulp 
will  suflnce. 

Similar  preparations,  in  which  a  liq- 
uid, such  as  coffee,  chocolate,  or  syrup, 
thickened  with  eggs,  and  combined 
with  cream,  is  used,  are  known  as  par- 
faits. The  .cocoa  frappe',  given  in  the 
menu  for  the  lawn  fete,  is  ordinary 
breakfast  cocoa,  half  frozen  and  served 
in  glasses.  Whipped  cream  is  often 
added  to  each  cup. 


Queries  and  Answers. 


This  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers. 
Questions  relating  to  menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary 
science  and  domestic  econom,ics  in  general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered 
by  the  Editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  m.onth 
preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to  appear.  Ifi  letters  requesting  answer  by 
m.ail,  please  enclose  postage  stamp  ;  for  memcs,  one  dollar.  Address  queries  to  yanet  M.  Hilly 
Editor,  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  j/^  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  380.— J/r^-.  G.  B.  C,  North 
Ferrisburg^  Vt.  :  "  Recipes  for  cooking 
pickled  tripe.'''' 

Recipes  for  Tripe. 

Let  simmer  in  boiling  water  twenty- 
minutes  with  from  half  to  a  whole  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda ;  drain,  dip  in  melted 
butter,  bacon  fat,  or  oil,  then  in  fine 
cracker  crumbs,  and  broil  over  a  clear 
fire.  Serve  with  quartered  lemons.  Or, 
drain  as  before  and  cook  with  onion, 
curry  powder,  stock,  etc.,  as  curried 
tripe.  Or,  after  draining,  saute  with 
onion  and  finish  in  a  tomato  sauce. 
Or,  dip  in  flour  and  fry  in  bacon  fat. 


Query  381. — A.  F.  C,  Fort/a?id, 
Me. :  ^^ Recipe  for  molasses  drop-cakes .^^ 
Molasses  Drop-Cakes. 

Pour  two -thirds  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  over  two-thirds  a  cup  of  shorten- 
ing, add  one  pint  of  molasses,  and  gin- 
ger, cinnamon,  and  salt  to  taste.  Sift 
one  level  tablespoonful  of  soda  into 
one  quart  of  sifted  flour,  and  add  to 
the  liquid  ingredients.  Drop  on  to  a 
buttered  tin  from  a  spoon,  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven.  If  the  mixture  spreads 
too  much  in  baking,  add  more  flour. — 
Mrs.  Taylor. 


Rasped  Rolls. 
Use  a  Parker- House  roll  or  other 
unsweetened  roll  mixture ;  shape  into 
balls  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary 
Parker-House  roll.  Set  some  distance 
apart  on  a  buttered  tin,  and  when  light 
bake,  until  the  whole  surface  is  of  an 
uniformly  brown  color.  Grate  off  the 
outside  of  the  crust  in  a  rasping  ma- 
chine. When  only  a  few  are  to  be 
prepared,  an  ordinary  lemon -grater 
may  be  used,  great  care  being  taken 
to  remove  the  crust  evenly. 


Query  382. —  Mrs.  f.  E.    U.,  Ash- 
Jield,  Mass. :  "  Recipe  for  rasped  rolls'' 


Query  383.— 7V^  ^.  C,  Rea,  Mich.  : 
"  How  can  alum    in  baki?igpowder   be 
detected  by  housekeepers  ?  " 
How  to  Detect  Alum  in  Bakiiig- Powder. 

Alum  is  the  most  objectionable  sub- 
stance that  can  be  used  in  baking- 
powders.  The  most  common  test  is 
as  follows  :  Stir  two  or  three  spoonfuls, 
each,  of  baking-powder  and  acetic  acid 
into  a  glass  of  water,  and  add  a  few 
drops  of  a  fresh-prepared  decoction  of 
logwood.  If  the  mixture  becomes  of 
a  yellow  color,  no  alum  is  present,  but 
if  bluish,  pinkish,  or  purple  color,  more 
or  less  alum  is  present.  Logwood  is 
used  for  dyeing,  and  can  be  obtained 
at  druggists'. 


Query  384. —  Mrs.  G.  E.  C,  Skene- 


90 


THE   BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


aieles,  N.  Y. :  '^Is  if  possible  to  keep 
bacon  and  other  odorous  foods  ift  the 
same  refrigerator  with  jnilk  and  hitter^ 
7vithout  injury  to  these  ready  absorb- 
ents /  " 

One  Refrigerator  for  Butter  and  Odo?'- 
ous  Food. 
Milk  and  butter  may  be  kept  in  the 
same  refrigerator  with  odorous  food, 
if  they  be  in  a  separate  compartment, 
taking  precaution  to  set  the  milk  and 
cream  in  the  cooler  or  lower  compart- 
ment. Foods  may  also  be  kept  in  the 
same  compartment,  if  each  article  be 
closely  covered,  and  sufficient  ice  be 
used  to  cause  a  free  circulation  of  air. 


Query  385. — Mrs,  K.  M.  F.,  Rich- 
mo?id  Hill,  JV.  Y.  :  "Recipe  for  straw- 
berry tomato  preserve.''^ 

Straivberry   Tomato  Freserve. 

Cook  the  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon 
and  the  seeded  pulp  cut  in  slices,  and 
a  bit  of  ginger  root,  in  boiling  water, 
until  the  water  is  well  flavored  with 
lemon  and  ginger,  then  strain.  For 
each  pound  of  tomatoes  removed  from 
the  husks  take  half  a  pound  of  sugar 
and  a  cup  of  the  flavored  water ;  heat 
to  the  boiling-point  and  skim,  then  add 
the  tomatoes  ;  cook  until  scalded  thor- 
oughly, then  skim  into  jars.  Boil  the 
syrup  until  thick,  adding  to  it  a  few 
slices  of  lemon,  selecting  lemons  that 
are  not  bitter,  and  with  it  fill  the  jars 
to  overflowing.     Cover  securely. 


Query  386.  — J/ri-.  H.  W.  H., 
White  Hall,  III. :  "  What  work  on  psy- 
chology would  you  recommcfid  to  one 
taki7ig  a  course  of  readi?ig  on  domestic 
scie?ice  at  hoine  /  " 

Work  on  Fsychology,  etc. 

'  We  know  of  no  book  on  psychology 

adapted    specially   to    this    branch    of 


teaching  (domestic  science).  White's 
"  Pedagogy,"  and  "  Education,"  by 
Herbert  Spencer,  are  considered  most 
valuable  works  in  connection  with  the 
general  subject  of  psychology.  For 
answer  to  other  *'  queries  "  see  another 
page. 


Query  387.— J/rj-.  N.  M.  W.,  York, 
Fa. :  "Recipe  for  *  curried  oyster  sand- 
wiches.^ " 

Curried  Oyster  Sandwiches. 

Probably  this  name  is  given  to  some 
local  combination  of  oysters  and  curry 
powder  in  the  form  of  sandwiches,  and, 
in  the  absence  of  definite  particulars, 
we  are  unable  to  give  the  desired  for- 
mula. Cold  cooked  oysters  are  not 
particularly  toothsome  ;  so  we  suggest 
chilled  raw  oysters,  dusted  with  salt 
and  curry  powder,  placed  between  but- 
tered slices  of  brownbread,  and  served 
with  olives  or  cucumbers. 


Query  388.  —  "  Where  did  I  see  in 
the  Magazine  that  bread  for  sandwiches, 
upon  being  taken  from  the  oven,  should 
be  wrapped  i?i  a  damp  cloth,  and  left 
four  hours,  whe?i  it  would  be  7'eady  for 
slicing^  ". 

Bread  for  Sandwiches. 

The  recipe  referred  to  is  upon  the 
reverse  of  frontispiece  in  June -July 
issue,  1900.  This,  however,  \s2i  special 
recipe.  For  ordinary  sandwiches  bread 
is  not  usually  so  treated.  It  would  not 
be  desirable. 


Query  389.  — Mrs.  I.  H. :  "Kindly 
give  recipe  for  suet  pudding.''^ 

Suet  Fudding  7vith  Figs. 

Soak  half  a  pound  of  stale  bread, 
freed  from  crusts,  in  cold  water,  then 
wring  in  a  cloth;  add  one-fourth  a  pound 
of  suet  chopped  fine,  one-third  a  cup 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


91 


of  sugar,  one  beaten  egg,  and  half  a 
pound  of  figs,  cut  fine  or  chopped. 
Steam  in  a  buttered  mould  an  hour 
and  a  half. 


Query  390. —  Mrs.  IT.  L.  /.,  Brook- 
field.,  Mass. :  "-Recipes  for  sultana  roll^ 
claret  sauce,  sand  cakes,  and  frozeii  pud- 
ding:^ 

Sultana  Roll. 

Line  a  mould  (pound  baking-pow- 
der boxes  make  excellent  moulds  for 
this  dessert)  with  pistachio  ice-cream, 
sprinkle  the  inner  surface  of  the  ice 
with  sultana  raisins  that  have  been 
soaked  an  hour  or  more  in  brandy. 
Fill  the  centre  with  a  charlotte-russe 
preparation  flavored  with  vanilla.  Pack 
in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt,  and  let 
stand  two  hours.  Serve  with  claret 
sauce. 

Pistachio   Cream. 

Use  thin  cream,  or  any  preferred 
ice-cream  mixture ;  tint  with  vegetable 
green  to  secure  the  color  of  pistachio 
nuts,  flavor  with  equal  quantities  of 
vanilla  and  almond  extract.  Freeze 
as  usual. 

Charlotte-Russe  Mixture. 

Beat  a  cup  of  thick  cream  until  solid ; 
beat  the  white  of  an  ^^g  until  dry,  then 
add  a  scant  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract ;  combine 
the  two  mixtures. 

Claret  Sauce. 

Boil  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  water  until  slightly  thickened. 
Let  cool  and  add  four  tablepoonfuls 
of  claret. 

Frozen  Ruddifig. 

Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
mixed  with  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar, 
in  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  stirring  until  it 
thickens,  fifteen  minutes  ;  beat  an  egg, 
add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar  and  a 
few  grains  of  salt,  and  stir  into  the  hot 


mixture.  When  the  egg  looks  cooked, 
add  a  pint  of  thin  cream,  and  strain 
into  the  can  of  the  freezer.  When 
cold  flavor  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
vanilla,  and  freeze.  Have  ready  a 
pound  of  French  fruit,  cut  in  small 
pieces,  and  half  a  cup  of  chopped 
almonds  steeped  for  several  hours  in 
sufticient  Jamaica  rum  to  moisten  them 
well ;  stir  the  fruit  and  nuts  into  the 
frozen  cream,  and  pack  the  whole  in  a 
melon  mould,  lined  with  lady-fingers, 
or  not,  as  is  preferred.  Press  the 
cover  down  tightly  over  a  paper  that 
comes  out  beyond  the  edge  of  the 
mould,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt,  four 
parts  of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter. 
Currants,  raisins,  citron,  pineapple,  or 
other  preserved  fruit  —  one,  or  a  mix- 
ture of  several  —  may  be  used.  If  the 
Jamaica  rum  be  not  desired,  cook  the 
fruit  and  nuts  in  a  heavy  syrup  until 
tender  and  well  saturated  with  syrup. 
Serve  with  a  chilled  boiled  custard, 
whipped  cream,  or  rich  sauce. 
Sand  Cakes. 
Beat  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream;  add 
gradually  two  cups  of  sugar,  then  three 
eggs  beaten  without  separating,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flavoring  extract,  and  flour 
sifted  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, to  make  a  paste  that  can 
be  easily  handled.  Roll  into  a  sheet, 
cut  in  rounds,  squares,  etc.,  brush  over 
with  white  of  egg,  and  sprinkle  with 
granulated  sugar  and  sliced  almonds  ; 
bake  to  a  delicate  brown  color.  Bake 
as  cookies  by  the  addition  of  one-half 
to  one  whole  cup  of  milk. 


Query  391.  —  Mrs,  H.  C,  H.,  Xeii>- 
ton,  Mass. :  "  Recipe  for  rye  bread  in 
the  loaf' 

Rye  Bread. 

Rye  bread  may  be  made  with  water, 
but  it  is  verv  much  better  when  made 


92 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


with  milk.  It  should  be  eaten  quite 
fresh,  as  it  is  rather  dry,  made  with 
either  milk  or  water,  after  twenty-four 
hours.  The  new  crop  of  rye  is  now 
harvested,  and  home-made  rye  bread 
is  a  most  delicious  addition  to  a 
dietary.  We  have  been  most  success- 
ful in  making  by  the  same  recipe  as 
that  given  in  these  pages  many  times 
for  white  and  entire-wheat  bread.  Use 
wheat  flour  in  kneading,  and  knead 
thoroughly.  Mixed  stiff,  and  with 
board  and  hands  well  dredged  with 
wheat  flour,  the  characteristic  "sticki- 
ness" is  avoided.  The  proportions 
are  one  pint  of  scalded  and  cooled 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  yeastcake  soft- 
ened in  half  a  cup  of  water,  and  sifted 
rye  flour,  to  make  a  stiff  dough. 


Query  392.  —  Mrs.  J.  E.  U.,  Ash- 
field,  Mass. :  ^'■Recipe  for  chocolate  mer- 
ingues, shape  and  size  of  a  small  oraJtge, 
inside  delicate  aftd  creamy,  outside  cov- 
ered with  a  thick  chocolate  coating. ^^ 
Chocolate  Meringue. 

On  papers,  on  a  board  one  inch 
thick,  shape  meringue  mixture,  using 
spoon  or  pastry  bag  and  plain  tube, 
like  halves  of  an  orange.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  about  three-fourths  an 
hour,  without  coloring,  until  the  last 
of  the  baking.  Remove  from  the 
papers  at  once,  invert,  and  remove  any 
uncooked  mixture.  At  serving  -  time 
fill  the  halves  with  sweetened  and 
flavored  whipped  cream,  press  together 
in  pairs,  using  some  of  the  soft  mer- 
ingue to  hold  the  halves  together,  and 
dip  into  chocolate  fondant  or  boiled 
frosting,  fondant  being  preferable. 
Meringue  Mixtu?'e. 

Use  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  to 
a  pound  (one  pint)  of  whites  of  eggs, 


one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of-tartar. 
Beat  the  eggs  until  very  foamy ;  add 
the  salt,  cream-of-tartar,  and  half  of 
the  sugar,  gradually,  beating  vigorously 
between  each  addition  of  sugar ;  when 
a  knife  drawn  through  the  mixture 
leaves  a  clean  cut,  fold  in  the  rest  of 
the  sugar. 
'      Boiled  Eros  ting  for  Merifigties. 

Boil  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar 
and  one  cup  and  a  fourth  of  water  fif- 
teen minutes.  Stir  in  confectioners' 
sugar  to  make  of  the  proper  consist- 
ency, flavor,  and  set  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water  while  dipping  the  meringues. 


Query  393. —  A.  H.,  Harlem,  N.  Y. : 
^^How  do  you.  add  beaten  eggs  a?id  cream 
to  a  hot  7nixture,^^  etc.,  etc.  ? 
How  to  Add  Eggs  to  a  Hot  Mixture. 

Beat  the  eggs,  dilute  with  cream, 
and  then  with  a  spoonful  or  two  of  the 
hot  mixture ;  stir,  and  add  very  gradu- 
ally to  the  mixture,  which  should  not 
boil  thereafter.  It  should  be  removed 
from  the  fire  or  set  in  hot  water. 
Lobster  a  la  Newburgh. 

Lobster  \  la  Newburgh  may  be  pre- 
pared in  a  double  boiler. 

»  Baked  Fish. 

As  a  general  rule,  do  not  remove  the 
head  and  tail  of  a  fish  for  baking. 
Skewer  and  tie  in  the  shape  of  the  let- 
ter S,  or  fasten  the  tail  at  one  side 
of  the  head  after  passing  it  through 
the  sockets  of  the  eyes.  Bake  in  a 
dripping-pan,  agate  preferred,  resting 
on  a  fish-sheet  (a  flat  piece  of  agate 
or  tin  ware  punctured  with  holes  and 
having  handles  at  each  end).  This 
should  be  raised  from  the  bottom  of 
the  pan  a  little;  it  is  very  convenient 
in  removing  the  fish  to  the  serving- 
dish. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


93 


How  to  Boil  Corned  Beef. 

Cover  with  cold  water,  bring  slowly 
to  the  boiling-point,  then  let  the  water 
bubble  slowly,  but  continuously,  on  one 
side  of  the  kettle,  until  the  meat  is 
tender.  Return  whatever  is  uneaten 
to  the  kettle,  and  let  cool  in  the  liquid. 
The  number  of  minutes  for  cooking 
per  pound  depends  upon  the  quality 
of  the  meat,  and  also  upon  the  cut.  A 
piece  from  the  fancy  brisket,  which  is 
close  and  fine-grained,  will  take  at 
least  an  hour  longer  than  a  coarser- 
grained  piece  from  the  neck  or  ribs. 
A  piece  weighing  four  or  five  pounds 
would  need  at  least  five  hours  of  gentle 
simmering,  and  a  piece  two  pounds  in 
weight  could  not  be  properly  cooked 
in  much  less  time.  It  is  better  to 
allow  plenty  of  time,  and,  if  necessary, 
set  aside  in  the  hot  liquor. 

Recipe  for  Cream  Mayonnaise. 

To  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing, 
made  in  the  usual  manner,  fold  in,  at 
serving-time^  from  one-fourth  to  a  whole 
cup  of  stiff-beaten  cream.  Use,  for 
tinting  pink,  green,  or  orange,  the  vege- 
table color  pastes  found  on  the  market. 
Bouillon. 

Heat  the  marrow  before  putting  in 
the  meat.  Put  the  water  in  which  the 
meat  is  soaked,  the  meat  and  bone, 
the  browned  meat  and  the  liquid  added 
to  the- frying-pan,  all  together  into  the 
soup  kettle. 

Boston  Brownbread. 

A  mixture  made  with  a  pint  of  liquid 
should  be  steamed  at  least  three  hours 
in  a  single  mould ;  in  three  or  four 
small  moulds,  about  two  hours.  Longer 
steaming  will  not  injure  the  bread. 
Entire-wheat  flour  is  a  fine  flour  made 
from  the  entire-wheat  grain  after  the 
husk  has  been  removed.  As  it"  con- 
tains the  germ  of  the  wheat,  it  does  not 


keep   well,   and    should   be   bought   in 
small  quantities. 

Fat  for  Frying  Clam  Fritters. 

The  kind  of  fat  to  be  used  for  frying 
is  largely  a  matter  of  individual  taste. 
Many  housekeepers,  who  are  not  vege- 
tarians, prefer  vegetable  oils  prepared 
for  the  purpose,  or  cottolene,  made 
from  the  firm  fat  of  beef  and  cotton- 
seed oil ;  while  there  are  those  who 
object  to  the  use  of  anything  but  lard. 
Potato  Salad. 

Cut  the  potatoes  in  shapes  be- 
fore cooking,  blanch  by  pouring  cold 
water  over  them  the  moment  they  are 
cooked  and  drained;  adapt  the  onion 
and  celery  to  your  taste ;  an  equal 
quantity,  or  less,  of  celery  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  onion  would  be  enjoyed 
by  some.  Use  chopped  eggs  if  you 
like,  or,  for  a  change,  use  the  eggs  cut 
in  quarters  or  in  slices  as  a  garnish. 
A  garnish,  no  matter  what  it  is,  should 
not  be  added  until  after  the  body  of 
the  salad  has  been  dressed. 
Poached  Eggs. 

To  boiling  water  add  salt  and  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  place 
where  the  water  does  not  bubble,  break 
in  the  eggs,  which  must  be  fresh,  in 
order  to  keep  in  shape.  Let  stand 
without  boiling  until  cooked.  The 
water  should  not  quite  cover  the  ^g'g. 
Remove  with  a  skimmer,  trim,  if  neces- 
sary, and  slide  on  to  the  toast.  Fresh 
eggs,  and  water  at  the  right  tempera- 
ture, are  all  that  are  needed. 

Milk  for  Clam  and  Oyster  Stew. 

Milk  for  this  purpose  should  be  hot. 
Tomato  Catsup. 

Scald  half  a  bushel  of  ripe  tomatoes 
and  remove  the  skins;  add  half  a  cup 
of  salt,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  three 
tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  ground  mace 


94 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


and  celery  seed,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  ground  cinnamon,  and  two  quarts 
of  vinegar.  Boil  slowly  until  reduced 
one-half,  then  pass  through  a  sieve ; 
reheat,  and  store  in  sealed  bottles,  or 
in  tight-closed  cans.  A  larger  quantity 
of  spice  is  desired  by  many. 

Recipe  for  Plain  I^aste  with  Butter. 

Sift  into  a  chopping-bowl  one  cup 
and  a  half  of  flour  and  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  baking- 
powder  ;  flour  the  blade  of  the  knife, 
and  chop  into  it  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
mix  to  a  paste  with  cold  water,  turn 
on  to  the  floured  board,  and  work  into 
shape  with  a  knife ;  then  pat  with  the 
rolling-pin,  and  roll  out  into  a  rectan- 
gular sheet;  fold  so  as  to  make  three 
even  layers ;  turn  and  roll  the  paste  in 
the  opposite  direction.  Fold  and  roll 
once  more  if  desired,  or  use  without 
further  working. 

Gi'ceii- Grape  Jelly. 

Wash  the  grapes  and  remove  from 
the  stems ;  add  a  cup  of  water  to  keep 
them  from  burning,  cover,  and  cook 
until  soft,  then  drain  in  a  bag.  Re- 
heat the  juice  while  the  sugar  is  heat- 
ing in  the  oven  ;  \vhen  the  juice  boils, 
skim,  and  add  a  cup  of  sugar  for  each 
cup  of  juice ;  keep  well  skimmed,  and 
cook  until  the  mixture  jellies  slightly 
when  tested  in  a  cold  glass.  After  the 
juice  is  drained  from  the  pulp,  express 
the  remainder  of  the  juice,  and  proceed 
as  before,  making  a  second  grade  of 
jelly.  Lemon  juice  can  be  added  if 
desired.  To  preserve  the  grape  flavor, 
cook  no  longer  than  it  is  necessary  to 
soften  the  grapes. 

Batter  Pudding. 

Cook  half  a  cup  of  flour,  mixed  with 
a  cup  of  cold  milk,  in  a  cup  of  scalded 
milk  ;  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens, 
then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 


beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  add  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  stir  into 
the  first  mixture  ;  when  the  egg  looks 
cooked,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  fold 
in  the  stiff-beaten  whites  of  four  eggs. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  baking-dish,  and 
bake,  standing  in  a  pan  of  hot  water, 
about  thirty  minutes.  Serve  with  sab- 
ayon  sauce  or 

CREAMY    SAUCE. 

Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  half  a  cup 
of  water  fifteen  minutes ;  then  beat 
into  a  cup  of  whipped  cream,  and  flavor 
with  vanilla  or  wine. —  Miss  Wilson. 

SABAYON    SAUCE. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  until 
light-colored  and  thick ;  add  half  a  cup 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat  again. 
When  ready  to  serve,  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  sherry,  and  cook  over  hot 
water,  until  slightly  thickened,  stirring 
constantly. 

Steamed  Peach  Pudding. 

Sift  together  one  pint  of  pastry  flour, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  level 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-  powder,  and 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  sugar.  Stir  into  this 
one  beaten  egg  mixed  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter  and  half  a 
cup  of  milk ;  then,  as  the  mixture  is 
turned  into  a  buttered  mould  or  cups, 
add  a  generous  cup  of  sliced  peaches. 
Steam  half  an  hour  in  cups  or  a  full 
hour  in  a  mould. 


To  Subscribers. 
We  have  accumulated  a  list  of  names 
of  recipes  desired  by  our  inquirers,  for 
which  we  are  unable  to  give  the  exact 
formulas.  We  should  be  pleased  to 
have  any  one  who  is  able  send  one  or 
more  of  these  recipes  ;  we  will  publish 
the  same,  accrediting  to  the  sender. 
A  few  of  the  list  follow :  "  Pecan 
Sticks;"  "Margaret  Deland  Cakes; " 
"  Rich  Taylor  Cakes,  That  Puff  Up  ;  " 
"  Clam  Chowder,  Boston-Market  Style 
and  Fulton-Market  Style;  "  '*  Cocoanut 
Taffy"  (a  cake);  "Small  Cucumber 
Sweet  Pickles,  That  Do  Not  Shrink ;  " 
"  The  Cause  of  Shrinking  in  Pickles, 
Sweet  and  Sour." 


-fe>. 


^^IT^Q^^ 


News  and  Notes. 


'  Address  communications  for  this  department  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor 

of  the   Boston    Cooking-School    Magazine,   372  Boylston   Street, 
Boston,    Mass. 


The  graduating  exercises  of  the 
Xormal  Class  at  the  Ijoston  Cooking- 
School  took  place  June  26,  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  names  of  the  gradu- 
ates :  — 

Anderson,  Emilie  G.,  Whitewater,  Wis. 

Bates,  Lillian  K  ,  Wollaston,  Mass. 

Bl'rxham,  Caroline  M.,  South  Byfield, 
Mass. 

Chase,  Sara  A.,  South  B)  field,  Mass. 

Crosby,  Nellie  B.,  Lovell's  Island,  Bos- 
ton Harbor. 

Dewey,  Grace  E.,  Concord,  Mich. 

Eads,  Eleanor  F  ,  Paris,  III. 

Eaton,  Luella  A.,  Auburn,  Mass. 

Flood,  Eloise  P.,  Wollaston,  Mass. 

Fowler,  Grace  R.,  Wollaston,  Mass. 

Gibson,  Mary  W.,  Medford,  Mass. 

Hatch,  Mary  F.,  Bradford,  Mass. 

Havens,  Coral  R  ,  Lansing,  Mich. 

Hill,  Sarah  C,  New  Brunswick,  X.  J. 

Kirkpatrick,  Nettie  M.,  Salem,  Mass. 

Lewis,  Gertrude  M.,  Brockton,  Mass. 

Loverage,  Jessie,  Rochester,  N.  V. 

Mackenzie,  Kate,  Norwich,  Conn. 

Newhall,  Abhy  L.,  Lynn,  Mass. 

Penfifld,  Alice  P.,  Cleveland,  O. 

Rogers,  Grace  L  ,  Newton  Centre,  Mass. 

ScHwiND,  Gertrude  M.,  Cleveland,  O. 

Stowell,  Myra  E.,  Worcester,  Mass. 

Welch,  Mary  H.,  Dedham,  Mass. 

Wheeler,  Marion  B.,  Worcester,  Mass. 

Willey,  Mary  H.,  Newmarket,  N.  H. 

WiLL^,  Grace  T.,  Winchester,  Mass. 


Miss  Grace  T.  Wills,  1900,  has  ac- 
cepted a  position  at  the  Alfred  Corn- 
ing Clark  Settl^jpient  House,  New 
York    City.       She    is   to    take    charge 


\vomen  and  boys,  devoting  the  morning 
to  instruction  in  the  homes  of  the  pu- 
pils. 

Mrs.  Caroline  D.  Jordan,  instructor 
in  psychology  and  chemistry  at  the 
Boston  Cooking-School,  recently  gave 
a  lecture  upon  "  Method  Applied  to 
Teaching,"  before  the  Educational  As- 
sociation of  Concord,  N.  H.  The  lec- 
ture proved  of  great  interest  to  a  large 
audience. 

Miss  Alice  Bradley,  Class  of  '97,  who 
has  just  returned  from  a  successful 
second  year  as  principal  of  the  domes- 
tic-science department  of  the  Montreal 
Young  Women's  Christian  Associa- 
tion, has  charge  of  a  summer  school 
in  cookery,  for  high-school  pupils,  at 
the  Hyde  Park  high -school  building. 
The  lessons  are  to  continue  six  weeks. 


Miss  Emily  Marion  Colling  is  lec- 
turer and  principal  of  the  cooking- 
school  at  Mount  Gretna,  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Chautauqua. 

At  the  close  of  that  assembly  she 
will  go  to  Mountain  Lake  Park,  the 
Maryland  Chautauqua,  where  she  will 
fill  a  similar  position. 


Stella  Dodge,  Class  of  '99,  is  at  the 
Harnot  Hospital,  Erie,  Penn.  Miss 
Dodge  decides  upon  the  necessary 
supplies,  purchases  the  same,  and  sup- 


of    afternoon  and  evening  classes  for     erintends  their  cooking. 


96 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


Miss  Stella  Downing,  Class  of  '99, 
returns  next  year  to  the  Erie  (Penn.) 
School  of  Domestic  Science.  Much 
enthusiasm  was  displayed  throughout 
the  year  in  this  work,  which  was  a  new 
venture  in  Erie.  Diplomas  and  certifi- 
cates were  given  to  fifty-three  pupils. 


Miss  Nonie  W.  Jones,  Class  of  '99, 
has  lately  been  appointed  instructor  in 
cookery  at  the  school  connected  with 
the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  of  Denver,  Col. 


Miss  Mary  J.  Gannon,  Class  of  '97, 
died  at  her  home  in  Concord,  N.  H., 
in  June,  after  an  illness  of  about  seven 
weeks.  Up  to  the  time  of  her  illness 
she  was  engaged  in  teaching  cookery 
in  the  public  schools  of  Concord,  to 
which  position  she  was  elected  in 
April,  1899.  She  was  born  in  Con- 
cord in  1854,  graduated  from  the  high 
school  of  that  city  in  1873,  ^^^^  taught 
school  in  Northern  New  Hampshire 
and  in  Concord  for  about  eight  years, 
when  failing  health  forced  her  to  give 
up  this  occupation.  Recovering  her 
health,  for  several  seasons  she  took 
charge  of  the  cookery  department  of 
several  large  hotels  in  the  mountains, 
at  beaches,  and  in  Florida.  In  1897 
she  joined  the  Normal  Class  at  the 
Boston  Cooking- School,  and,  after 
graduation,  established  a  private  school 
of  cookery  in  her  native  city,  which, 
at  the  time  of  her  death,  she  was  con- 
ducting in  connection  with  the  work 
in  the  public  schools.  Miss  Gannon 
is  remembered  as  an  earnest,  enthusi- 
astic, and  conscientious  pupil,  one  who 
left  a  marked  impression  in  a  class, 
of  which  the  young  women  have  been 
eminently  successful  in  organizing  pri- 
vate schools,  or  as  principals  of  schools. 


Brockton,  Mass.,  April  6,  1900. 
Dear  Mada?n, —  I  was  much  interested  in 
the  letter  from  Riverside,  Cal.,  published  in 
the  April-May  issue  of  the  Boston  Cook- 
iNG-ScHOOL  Magazine.  Two  years  ago  I 
^pent  several  months  in  that  place,  and  took 
pains  to  become  acquainted  with  the  market, 
prices,  etc.  I  think  it  would  be  a  very  easy 
matter  there  to  set  a  table  well  on  three  dollars 
a  week  for  three  persons.  Beef  is  perhaps  a 
little  higher  than  in  our  Eastern  markets  ;  lamb 
is  cheaper,  and  excellent ;  fowl,  eggs,  milk  and 
butter  are  about  the  same  in  price  as  here. 
If  there  is  a  man  in  the  family  who  is  a  fairly 
good  shot,  it  is  a  very  simple  matter  to  obtain 
rabbits  and  quail  for  the  table,  as  they  abound. 
The  jack-rabbit  is  very  palatable,  the  cotton- 
tail very  nice,  and,  as  a  bounty  is  given  for 
killing  them,  the  market  price  must  be  low. 
Oysters  are  small  and  high,  salmon  much 
cheaper  and  nicer  than  with  us.  Lobsters  are 
cheaper ;  they  are  larger,  too,  and  more  tender, 
though  they  have  no  claws.  Fruit  is  plenty, 
and  cheap.  Dates,  bananas,  and  pineapples 
do  not  mature  there,  and  are  higher  than  with 
us.  English  walnuts,  pecans,  almonds,  raisins, 
grapes,  oranges,  peaches,  apricots,  are  plenty 
in  their  season,  —  so  plenty  that,  with  a  few 
friends,  the  persons  who  raise  none  will  not 
need  to  buy  much.  The  Chinamen  raise  vege- 
tables and  sell  them  from  door  to  door.  In 
January  and  February  they  sell  enough  spin- 
ach for  a  family  of  six  or  seven,  a  head  of 
lettuce,  two  or  three  beets,  and  a  carrot,  for  a 
a  small  "  bit,"  or  ten  cents,  and  for  a  "  large 
bit "  (fifteen  cents)  will  throw  in  a  large  bunch 
of  extra  nice  celery.  Other  vegetables  sell 
accordingly ;  strawberries,  peas,  beans,  etc., 
can  be  had  at  a  moderate  cost  throughout  the 
winter,  but  in  the  early  spring  are  abundant 
and  very  cheap.  Honey  is  much  nicer  than 
with  us,  and  very  cheap.  Olives  and  olive 
oil  are  cheap  and  nutritious. 

Mrs.  F.  W.  S. 


Mme.  Sarah  Grand,  who  wrote  the 
once-much-talked  of  novel,  "The  Heav- 
enly Twins,"  has  been  giving  her  views 
about  her  sex.  She  declares  that  with 
women  pastimes  hav^  become  a  vice. 
The  chief  reason  for  the  dearth  of  hap- 
piness, in  her  estimation,  is  bad  cook- 


THE  BOSTON  COOKIXG-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


97 


ing.  The  culinary  art  she  declares  to 
be  the  noblest  a  woman  can  qualify  in, 
and  she  hopes  that  as  English  women 
have  revolutionized  nursing  they  will 
revolutionize  cooking,  and  when  they 
have  done  so  the  perfection  of  the  lat- 
ter will  render  a  good  deal  of  the 
former  unnecessarv. 


BERLIN'    MEDICAL    STUDENTS    TO 
LEARX    COOKING. 

The  directors  of  the  Berlin  Univer- 
sity have  ordered  that  in  future  all 
students  of  medicine  shall  take  up  the 
study  and  practice  of  cooking,  as  they 
recognize  the  vast  importance  of  its  in- 
fluence on  the  human  system. 

— /.  D.  la  V. 


Baking-powder  as  a  culinary  adjunct 
is  not,  apparently,  known  in  France  as 
it  is  in  this  countr)'.  Our  esteemed 
friend  and  colleague,  M.  A.  Colombie, 
superintendent  of  the  Paris  School  of 
Cookery,  recommends  its  use,  and  de- 
scribes it  as  "  Levure  Anglaise,'"  con- 
sisting of  two  parts  of  cream-of-tartar 
and  one  part  of  bicarbonate  of  soda. 
Perhaps  some  enterprising  English 
firm  of  manufacturers  of  baking-powder 
will  communicate  with  M.  Colombie 
with  a  view  of  introducing  genuine 
baking-powder  into  the  Paris  School. 
The  address  is  Ecole  de  Cuisine,  5, 
Cite  d'Antin,  Paris.  — Food  and  Cook- 
ery, London,  i8gg. 


A  law  has  been  passed  in  the  State 
of  Minnesota  which  requires  that  all 
manufacturers  of  baking-powders  shall 
print  on  the  label  of  the  packets  a 
list  of  the  ingredients  of  the  powder. 
The  Grocers'  Association  of  Minnesota 
have  passed  a  resolution  urging  the 
members  to  sell  only  such  powders  as 


are  labelled  in  accordance  with  the 
provisions  of  the  law.  Something  of 
this  kind  ought  to  be  done  in  this 
country,  as  there  are  but  few  baking- 
powders  on  the  market  demonstrated 
to  be  pure,  healthful,  and  free  from 
alum. — Food  and  Cookery,  London. 


DOCTOR'S   FOOD  TALK. 

SELECTION  OF    FOOD    ONE    OF    THE  MOST 
IMPORTANT    ACTS    IN    LIFE. 

Old  Dr.  Hanaford  of  Reading, 
Mass.,  says  in  the  Messenger :  ''Our 
health,  and  physical  and  mental  hap- 
piness, are  so  largely  under  our  per- 
sonal control  that  the  proper  selection 
of  food  should  be,  and  is,  one  of  the 
most  important  acts  in  life. 

"  On  this  subject  I  may  say  that  I 
know  of  no  food  equal  in  digestibility, 
and  more  powerful  in  point  of  nutri- 
ment, than  the  modern  Grape-Xuts, 
four  heaping  teaspoons  of  which  are 
sufficient  for  the  cereal  part  of  a  meal; 
and  experience  demonstrates  that  the 
user  is  perfectly  nourished  from  one 
meal  to  another. 

••  I  am  convinced  that  the  extensive 
and  general  use  of  high-class  foods  of 
this  character  would  increase  the  term 
of  human  life,  add  to  the  sum  total 
of  happiness,  and  very  considerably 
improve  society  in  general.  I  am  free 
to  mention  the  food,  for  I  personally 
know  of  its  value." 

Grape-Xuts  food  can  be  used  by 
babes  in  arms,  or  adults.  It  is  ready- 
cooked,  can  be  served  instantly,  either 
cold  with  cream,  or  with  hot  water,  or 
hot  milk  poured  over.  All  sorts  of 
puddings  and  fancy  dishes  can  be 
made  with  Grape- X'uts.  The  food  is 
concentrated,  and  very  economical,  for 
four  heaping  teaspoons  are  sufficient 
for  the  cereal  part  of  a  meal. 


98 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL   MAGAZINE. 


BOOK  REVIEWS. 


THE  OlEKX'S  TWIN.  Hy  Sarah 
Ornc  Jcwett.  16mo.  rricc,  $1.25. 
Boston  :  Hoiuihton,  Mifflin  ^  Co. 

Here  is  a  small  volume  of  short 
tales  by  a  well-known  writer  of  stories. 
The  Queen's  Twin,  A  Dunnet  Shep- 
herdess, Where's  Nora,  Bold  Words  at 
the  Bridge,  Martha's  Lady,  The  Coon 
Dog,  Aunt  Cynthy  Dallett,  and  The 
Night  before  Thanksgiving  make  up 
the  list.  Each  portrays  a  bit  of  scen- 
ery, or  gives  a  sketch  of  character  in 
the  more  common  walks  of  life,  that  is 
altogether  natural  and  pleasing.  No 
intricate  plot,  tragic  event,  or  maudlin 
sentiment  excites  or  vexes  the  reader. 
Though  free  from  incidents  of  an  ab- 
sorbing, exciting  nature,  the  narratives 
are  interesting,  pleasing,  and  whole- 
some. 

True  to  life,  they  are  fitted  to  satisfy 
the  wants  of  a  leisure  hour,  and  leave 
no  trace  of  weariness  or  feeling  of  re- 
gret for  time  ill  spent.  The  volume  is 
admirably  suitable  for  reading  on  a 
summer  outing,  or  for  intellectual  di- 
version from  more  exacting:  efforts. 


LAUNDRY    MANUAL.       By    L.    Ray 

Balderston     and     M.    C.    Limerich. 

Uhiladelphia:  Avil  Printing  Co. 

This  manual  was  prepared  by  the 
director  of  the  department  of  domestic 
science  in  Boardman  Manual  Training 
School,  New  Haven,  Conn.,  and  an  in- 
structor of  domestic  science  in  Drexel 
Institute,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  it  has  been 
used  in  these  respective  schools  for 
several  years.  The  entire  subject  is 
treated  in  a  comprehensive  and  scien- 
tific manner.  As  an  outline  of  lessons 
or  a  course  of  study,  the  book  is  much 
more  elaborate  than  it  is  in  matters  of 
practical  detail ;  still,  few  questions  in 
reference  to  this  branch  of  domestic 
science  are  likely  to  arise  that  one  will 
not  find  answered  here. 

The  chapter  on  the  Equipment  for 
a  Home  Laundry,  general  rules  and 
processes    of    washing,    and    that    on 


Stains,  are  full  of  useful  information 
and  practical  suggestion.  The  illus- 
trations, drawn  especially  for,  this  book, 
are  designed  to  show  clearly  the  meth- 
ods of  folding  garments. 

The  housewife  and  laundress  will 
find  this  book  useful  both  for  refer- 
ence and  as  a  reliable  guide  in  the 
actual  processes  of  laundering  the 
plainest  or    the   most  delicate  fabrics. 


HANDBOOK    OP    DOMESTIC    SCI- 
ENCE   AND   HOUSEHOLD  ARTS. 
Bv  L.  L.  V\.   Wilson.     Cloth,  l6nio. 
Price,  60  cents.     New    YorK  :    The 
Macmillan  Company. 
A   great  deal  of  material  has   been 
brought  together   in   this   volume.     It 
is  the  result  of  the  combined  efforts  of 
•'  several   experienced   teachers  to  put 
into  a  form  helpful  to  others  that  which 
they    themselves    have    gathered    with 
much  labor."    According  to  the  editor, 
"  one  of  the  chief  merits   of  the  book 
lies   in  the  fact  that  each   chapter,  by 
design,  contains   much  more   material 
than  can  possibly  be  used,  under  the 
most   advantageous    circumstances,  in 
the  single  month  in  which  it  is  placed ; 
the  teacher  is  thereby  enabled  to  give 
a   single   course   or  several   courses  a- 
dapted  to  her  own  peculiar  needs  and 
facilities."      This   statement    suggests 
the  character  and  scope  of  the  work. 

There  is  no  lack  of  information  in 
the  book ;  still  it  is  specifically  a  man- 
ual for  teachers,  an  outlined  course 
of  study  for  more  elaborate  courses  of 
instruction.  In  the  hands  of  earnest 
teachers,  excellent  results  might  be 
secured  from  its  use  in  elementary 
schools,  either  public  or  private.  One 
of  the  best  features  of  the  book  is  the 
bibliography  that  accompanies  each 
chapter.  In  this  reference  is  given  to 
sources  of  information  that  is  invalu- 
able, on  subjects,  too,  where  informa- 
tion is  sadly  needed ;  for  certainly,  in 
reference  to  most  phases  of  domestic 
science,  there  is  dearth  of  literature. 


THE  BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL    MAGAZINE. 


99 


COOKING    AND     SE\\I\G     SONGS 
AND  KECITATIONS.      Edited  by 
Mrs.  J.  B.  Romer.     Flexible  cloth. 
Price,  50  cents.     New  York  :  J.  \\. 
Schermerhorn  ^  Co. 
These   songs  were  written  specially 
to  be  used  with  Mrs.  Romer's  cooking- 
lesson  cards  in  industrial   and  mission 
schools,  and  have  been  set  to  familiar 
and  popular  airs.     "  Little  Buttercup," 
"  Comin'  thro'  the  Rye,"  and  favorite 
college  airs  like  "  Upidee  "  and  "  Jin- 
gle  Bells,"  indicate  the  lively  and  at- 
tractive nature  of  the  music. 

Mrs.  Romer  was  for  many  years  a 
manager  in  the  Home  for  the  Friend- 
less in  New  York  City,  and  had  the 
supervision  of  one  of  its  industrial 
schools.  The  songs  and  a  series  of 
cooking-lesson  cards  bear  testimony  to 
her  zeal  and  enthusiasm  in  a  success- 
ful attempt  to  introduce  industrial  work, 
and  especially  cooking,  to  classes  of 
young  girls,  where  its  influence  for 
good  must  be  most  far-reaching. 


THE    TELLING    OF    STORIES. 

Stories  to  the  normal  child  are  as 
necessary  as  the  air  it  breathes,  but  the 
true  and  inspired  story-teller  is  rare. 
That  a  number  of  young  women  gifted 
in  this  particular  should  turn  their 
talent  to  financial  account  is  quite  a 
natural  sequence.  One  young  woman 
in  this  city  who  has  adopted  this  work 
as  a  distinct  profession,  not  only  goes 
from  house  to  house,  telling  stories  to 
children  to  relieve  tired  mothers  and 
distracted  fathers,  but  applies  her  gift 
as  well  in  a  general  way  in  the  conduct 
of  children's  parties,  where  stories, 
monologues,  games,  and  songs  furnish 
entertainment  for  the  young  company. 
It  has  been  found  that  mentally  defi- 
cient children  can  often  be  reached  by 
means  of  a  story,  and  this  work  is  in- 
cluded usually  in  that  part  of  the  pro- 
fessional story-teller. —  Margaret  Ha7n- 
ilt07i  Welch. 


INTENDED  FOR  OTHERS. 

DIFFICULT  TO    BELIEVE    ADVICE  APPLIES 
TO    US. 

"  While  reading  the  morning  paper 
at  breakfast,  I  frequently  read  over  the 
advertisements  of  Postum  Food  Cof- 
fee, and  finally  began  to  wonder  if  it 
was  a  fact  that  my  daily  headache  and 
dyspepsia  were  due  to  coffee-drink- 
ing. 

"  It  never  occurred  to  me  that  the 
warning  fitted  my  case. 

•'  I  had  been  on  the  diet  cure  for 
more  than  ten  years,  having  tried  a 
strictly  meat  diet,  also  a  strictly  vege- 
table diet,  and  at  other  times  left  off 
breakfast  for  a  time,  and  again  left  off 
dinner,  but  all  these  efforts  were  futile 
in  ridding  me  of  the  steady  half-sick 
condition  under  which  I  labored. 

"  I  had  never  once  thought  of  over- 
hauling '  dear  old  coffee,'  but,  when  it 
finally  occurred  to  me  to  make  the  trial 
and  take  up  Postum,  I  immediately 
discovered  where  the  difficulty  all  these 
years  came  from.  I  now  eat  anything 
for  breakfast,  as  much  as  I  desire,  doing 
justice  to  a  good  meal,  and  the  same 
at  lunch  and  dinner,  with  never  a  head- 
ache or  other  disagreeable  symptom. 
My  only  '  crankiness '  now  is  to  know 
that  I  have  Postum  served  as  it  should 
be  made,  that  is,  properly  boiled. 
There  is  a  vast  difference  between 
poorly  made  Postum  and  good. 

"C.  E.  Hasty,  of  Alameda,  Cal., 
insists  that  he  owes  his  life  to  me  be- 
cause I  introduced  him  to  Postum.  I 
have  a  number  of  friends  who  have 
been  finally  cured  of  stomach  and  bowel 
trouble  by  the  use  of  Postum  Food 
Coffee  in  place  of  regular  coffee. 
"Please  do  not  use  my  name." 
D.  J.  H.,  1223  Bremen  Street,  Cincin- 
nati, O. 


Housekeeper's  Memoranda. 

For  the  present,  this  page  will  appear  in  this  position  in  each 
issne  of  the']Ap^GKZm^. 


To  Re?nove  Fresh  lea  and  Coffee 
Stains.  —  Place  the  stained  linen  over 
a  large  bowl  and  pour  through  it  boil- 
ing water  from  the  teakettle,  held  at  a 
height  to  insure  force. 

To  Remove  Old  Tea  a?id  Coffee  Stains. 

—  Soak  in  cold  water  first,  then  use 
boiling  water,  as  above. 

To  Remove  Cocoa  a?id  Chocolate  Stains. 

—  Use  cold  water  first,  then  boiling 
water,  as  above. 

To  Remove  Cla?'et  Stains  from  Table 
Linen.  —  As  soon  as  possible  cover  the 
stains  with  salt ;  let  stand  a  few  min- 
utes, then  rinse  in  cold  water. 

To  Remove  Fruit  Staifis.  —  Pour 
boiling  water  over  the  stained  surface. 
Arrange  the  cloth  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  water  passes  through  a  single 
thickness  and  from  a  height  above  it. 

To  Remove  Obstinate  Fruit  Stains.  — 
Use  three  ounces  of  oxalic  acid  to  one 
pint  of  water.  Wet  the  stain  with  the 
solution,  place  over  a  kettle  of  hot 
water  in  the  steam  or  in  the  sunshine. 
Rinse  well  the  instant  the  stain  disap- 
pears ;  wet  the  stain  with  ammonia  to 
counteract  the  acid  remaining.  Then 
rinse  it  thoroughly  again. 

To  Remove  Blood  Stains.  —  Use 
clear,  cold  water  at  first,  then  soap 
and  water. 

To  Remove  Ink  Spots  from  Gingham. 

—  Wet  the  spots  with  milk  and  cover 
them  with  common  salt.  Let  stand 
some  hours,  then  rinse  in  several 
waters. 


To  Remove  Ink  Spots.  —  Put  one  or 
two  drops  of  oxalic  acid  on  the  spots, 
rinse  in  several  waters,  and  finally  in 
ammonia. 

To  Remove  Grass  Stains.  —  Allow 
the  spots  to  remain  saturated  with  al- 
cohol for  a  little  time,  then  wash  in 
clear  water. 

To  Remove  Mildew.  —  Use  lemon 
juice  and  sunshine,  or,  if  deep  seated, 
soak  in  a  solution  of  one  tablespoonful 
of  chloride  of  lime  in  four  quarts  of 
cold  water  until  the  mildew  disappears. 
Rinse  several  times  in  clear  water. 

To  Remove  Red  Iron  Rust.  —  Cover 
the  spots  with  salt,  moisten  with  lemon 
juice,  let  stand  a  time,  adding  more 
salt  and  lemon.  If  not  successful  with 
these,  use  for  fast  colors  muriatic  acid. 
Spread  the  cloth  over  a  large  bowl  of 
hot  water,  touch  the  dry  spots  with  a 
drop  or  two  of  the  acid ;  when  the  rust 
disappears,  rinse  several  times  in  clear 
water  and  then  in  water  in  which  there 
is  a  little  ammonia. 

Platts  Chlorides. 

The  Household  Disinfectant 
instantly    destroys    foul    odors    and 
disease-breeding    matter,   preventing 
much  sickness. 


An  odorless,  colorless  liquid  ;  powerful,  safe 
and   economical.      Sold  in  quart  bottles  only, 
by  Druggists  and  high-class  Grocers.    Prepared 
only  by  Henry  B.  Piatt,  Piatt  St.,  New  York. 
When  you  write  Advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine, 


THE 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine. 


Vol.  V. 


OCTOBER  AND  NOVEMBER,   1900. 


No.  3. 


THE  BEWILDERMENT  OF  MR.  SAMUEL  BOWEN. 

By  Clara  T.  Clark. 


The  telegram  which  Mr.  Bowen 
holds  in  his  hand  evidently  puzzles 
him.  He  reads  it  to  himself,  then 
reads  it  aloud,  and  from  that  gives 
vent  to  several  and  sundry  ideas,  which 
have  been  chasing  themselves  through 
his  mind  for  the  last  five  seconds. 

'''Do  not  forget  T.  Hurt:  Now, 
isn't  that  a  woman  all  over .''  No  ex- 
planation; nothing  said;  simply  'Don't 
forget  T,  Hurt ; '  and  I,  Samuel  Bowen, 
sleeping  and  voting  in  Haverly,  sixty 
miles  away,  and  here  in  this  city,  in 
this  hotel,  for  a  trifle  less  than  twenty- 
four  hours  on  urgent  business,  and  my 
wife,  knowing  it,  telegraphs  me  to  look 
up  some  man  I  never  heard  of,  for 
some  reason  I  never  knew." 

Here  Mr.  Samuel  Bowen,  the  sole 
occupant  of  the  room,  again  reads  the 
telegram,  and  continues  his  bewildered 
comment :  "  'Do  ?iot  forget  T.  Hurt: 
Who  is  this  Hurt?  Where  is  this 
Hurt  ?  Is  he  here  or  in  Zululand  ? 
Am  I  to  run  him  for  president,  or  fetch 
him  to  dinner  ?     I  don't  know. 

"  I  always  thought  Marian  different 
from  other  women ;  but  she's  just  the 
^ame, —  hare-brained,  unreasoning,  off 
•at  half-cock.       They're    all    alike.       I 


may  as  well  spend  all  my  time  looking 
up  this  Hurt,  and  let  business  go. 
Marian  never  does  ask  anything  un- 
reasonable, but  I  fail  to  see  any  reason 
in  this.  By  the  way,  perhaps  I've  gone 
on  that  proposition  long  enough.  Per- 
haps I've  been  blind,  and  thought  there 
was  reason  in  everything  she  did.  B} 
Jove,  I'll  put  my  foot  down  from  this 
time  forth.  I'll  begin  now;  I'll  make 
this  a  sample  case." 

After  this  decision  there  is  perfect 
silence  in  the  room  for  the  space  of 
one  minute.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
Mr.  Bowen  rises,  goes  to  the  bell  and 
rings. 

"  I  may  as  well  make  a  few  inquir- 
ies," he  says  to  himself.  "  Mr.  Hurt 
may  be  right  here  in  this  hotel,  and 
Marian  knew  I  could  easily  find  him. 
But  why  should  she  say,  '  Don't  forget 
T.  Hurt'?  Have  we  talked  him  over, 
and  have  I  forgotten  ?  Is  my  mind 
going  ?  " 

At  this  juncture  there  is  a  knock  at 
the  door,  and  the  bellboy  enters. 

"  Boy,  do  you  know  a  gentleman  by 
the  name  of  Hurt  in  this  hotel?  Mr. 
T.  Hurt  —  Thomas,  or  Timothy,  or 
Tobias  Hurt,"  he  ends  minutely. 


I02 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


"I  don't  know  nuthin'  'bout  the 
people's  names,"  answers  the  boy. 
"  Brought  you  some  ice  water.  Any- 
thin'  else,  sir  ? " 

"  No,  nothing,"  in  a  tone  resigned 
to  ice  water. 

The  boy  goes  out,  and  Mr.  Bowen, 
reaching  for  his  hat  and  gloves,  pre- 
pares to  do  likewise,  having  a  vague 
idea,  as  he  glances  at  the  cool  sil- 
ver pitcher,  of  putting  the  ice  on  his 
head  to  help  fathom  the  mystery.  As 
he  passes  the  office,  on  the  way  to  the 
street,  he  suddenly  thinks  it  may  be  as 
well  to  look  in  the  hotel  register  for 
the  name  of  Hurt.  It  will  take  but  a 
moment,  and  then  he  can  go  about  his 
own  affairs  with  a  clear  conscience. 
So,  turning  back,  he  makes  his  way  to 
the  desk,  and,  calling  for  the  great 
book,  rapidly  runs  his  eye  down  the 
columns,  paying  special  heed  to  first 
names  beginning  with  T.  Several 
names  give  him  pause,  and  he  com- 
ments on  them  mentally,  as  follows  :  — 

•'  T.  Abbott  and  wife,  three  children, 
and  maids.  If  such  a  crowd  is  coming 
to  our  house,  Marian  and  I  and  our 
three  children  will  have  to  camp  in  the 
garden.  Thomas  Daly,  Thaddeus  JVeia- 
comer,  2.  S.  S?nith.  Was  there  ever  a 
list  without  its  Smith,  I  wonder  ?  T. 
Hart.  Could  Marian  have  meant 
Hart  ? "  and,  struck  by  the  similarity 
to  the  name  of  Hurt,  Mr.  Bowen  beck- 
oned to  the  clerk,  and  interrogates 
him  :  — 

"  Is  this  gentleman  here  now  — this 
Mr.  HartV 

"Yes,  sir;  room  48.  Would  you  like 
to  see  him  ?  " 

"Yes;  —  that  is,  I  think  so.  Where 
is  he  from  ?" 

"  He's  in  from  the  country.  I  guess 
he  can  see  you  this  morning,"  proffers 
the  all-knowing  clerk  ;  "  he's  better." 


"  Better?" 

"  Beg  your  pardon,  sir,  but  as  he's 
a  friend  of  yours  "  (here  the  all-know- 
ing one  lowers  his  voice  to  a  whisper), 
"  the  truth  is,  he's  been  drinking  pretty 
hard  lately,  and  we  had  to —  " 

"  He's  no  friend  of  mine."  Mr. 
Bowen  draws  back  stiffly,  but  then  pre- 
cipitately changes  his  manner  to  one 
of  remonstrance,  for  the  all-knowing 
has  his  hand  on  the  bell.  "  Pray,  don't 
ring,"  he  implores.  "  I'm  looking  for 
a  Mr.  Hurt,  —  Mr. — ^  er — "  (drawing 
on  his  imagination)  ^^ Thomas  Hurt.  Is 
there  such  a  person  here  ?  " 

"  No,  sir." 

"Sure?" 

"  Sure." 

As  Mr.  Bowen  leaves  the  desk  he 
spies  his  friend,  Frederick  Somers, 
striding  across  the  office,  grip  in  hand. 
He  immediately  hails  him. 

"  Maybe  Fred  will  know  something 
about  this  stranger,"  he  ejaculates,  as 
Mr.  Somers,  seeing  him,  turns  in  his 
course  toward  the  door. 

''  Hello,  Bowen !  Where'd  you  spring 
from?" 

"  From  Haverly,  as  usual.  I  say, 
Fred,  do  you  know  a  T.  Hurt  in  this 
town  ?  Somebody  just  come,  probably. 
Fact  is,  I've  had  a  blind  telegram  from 
my  wife.  See;  here  it  is,"  and  Mr. 
Bowen  pulls  the  telegram  from  his 
pocket,  and  reads  it  aloud.  "  '  Do  ?iot 
forget  T.  Hurt.'  And  I  don't  know  a 
Hurt." 

"  Sam  Bowen,  if  I  had  a  blind  tele- 
gram from  my  wife,  do  you  know  what 
I'd  do?" 

"No." 

"  I'd  telegraph  straight  back  and 
find  what  she  meant." 

"  I  suppose  I  should  have  thought 
of  that  in  time.  So  far  my  mind's 
been  —  " 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


lO 


"Hurt." 

''Humor  doesn't  sit  well  on  you, 
Fred." 

"Poor  Sam!  Poor  old,  distracted 
Sam  !     I'm  sorry  for  you." 

Sympathy,  however,  does  not  entirely 
fill  Mr.  Somers'  soul;  for  with  the 
words  he  glances  at  the  clock  on  the 
wall  in  front  of  him. 

"Sorry  I  can't  stop,"  he  says,  "but 
I've  got  to  get  that  next  boat.  It'll  all 
be  right,  Sam,  old  fellow,  I'm  sure. 
You'll  not  be  in  doubt  long  with  that 
bright,  little  wife  of  yours  managing 
things.  Let  me  know  how  this  Hurt 
affair  comes  out." 

"I  will,"  promises  Mr.  Bowen  read- 
ily enough,  as  his  friend  leaves  him. 

To  expedite  matters,  he  decides  to 
act  at  once  on  Mr.  Somers'  advice,  and 
send  a  telegram  to  Marian.  It  will 
do  no  harm,  though  it  may  prove  a 
very  slight  thing  to  send  a  telegram 
about.  It  is  all  undoubtedly  a  fault  of 
memory.  Mr.  Bowen  is  inclined  to 
smite  his  forehead  by  way  of  outward 
expression,  but  thinks  better  of  it,  and 
goes  to  the  telegraph  office,  where  he 
sends  a  despatch  to  his  wife,  —  a  de- 
spatch having,  at  least,  the  manly  virtue 
of  going  straight  to  the  point. 

''Who  is  T.  HiirtV  is  the  laconic 
inquiry. 

With  this  deed  done,  and  feeling  a 
somewhat  firmer  grip  on  the  universe, 
he  is  walking  briskly  away,  when  he 
hears  a  familiar  feminine  voice  calling 
his  first  name,  and,  at  almost  the  same 
moment,  finds  the  owner  of  the  voice 
beside  him.  It  is  Dorothy,  Marian's 
sister. 

"Why,  good  morning,  Dorothy," 
says  Mr.  Bowen,  making  his  bow  to 
this  charming  apparition. 

Now,   Dorothy  is   young  and  fairly 


good-natured;  but  just  now  she  is  de- 
cidedly out  of  breath  from  hurrying 
after  him,  and  vexed  in  consequence. 

"  You  must  have  /<?;z- league  boots 
on,  Sam,"  she  complains.  "  Why  don't 
you  have  your  eyes  about  you  in  a 
place  like  this,  crowded  with  your 
friends  and  relatives.?" 

"Don't  scold,  Dorothy;  pity  me." 

"  I  thought  I  was  pitying  myself." 

"  How  are  Marian  and  the  chil- 
dren 1 "  she  next  inquires. 

"  They're  well,  unless  Marian  has 
telegraphed  about  that." 

"  Telegraphed,  Sam  ?  I  don't  know 
anything  about  it." 

"  Suppose  we  go  into  the  parlor," 
he  suggests;  for  Dorothy,  severely  and 
faultlessly  dressed  in  street  costume,  is 
apparently  ready  to  go  out.  "  And 
while  you  get  your  breath  I'll  make  up 
for  the  *  ten-league  boots '  by  telling 
you  all  I  know." 

"  Will  it  take  long?" 

"  That's  unkind." 

"  For  I've  an  engagement  at  the 
dressmaker's." 

"A  shade  better.  No:  it  won't  take 
long.     Woe  is  never  long-winded." 

"  Why  do  you  say  'woe,'  Sam?  Is 
anything  the  matter  at  home  ?  "  asks 
Dorothy  anxiously.  "  What  is  it  all 
about?" 

"  I  don't  know." 

"  Really,  Sam,  you'll  have  to  be 
quick.  Madame  Elsie  is  a  tyrant,  and 
I  must  be  on  time,"  says  Dorothy,  very 
emphatically. 

"  That's  your  city  rush."  Mr.  Bowen 
speaks  slowly,  perhaps  by  way  of  con- 
trast to  the  '  city  rush,'  wondering, 
at  the  same  time,  if  the  small  head 
outlined  against  the  window,  as  Doro- 
thy sits  in  front  of  it,  holds  a  solution 
of  the   Hurt  problem.     "  You  all  talk 


I04 


77//-;  /H)S'rOX  COOA/\U-SC//OOL   MACAZIXE. 


with  your  watches  in  your  hand.  Not 
time  even  to  do  a  kindness.  I  just 
met  Fred  Somers,  and  he  was  on  a 
jump  for  a  boat,  and  now  you're  on  a 
jump  for  a  dressmaker.  Now,  if  you 
lived  in  Haverly —  " 

"If  that's  what  you  want  to  talk 
about,  Sam,  I'll  say  right  here  that 
I've  no  intention  of  going  to  the  back- 
woods." 

.  "  It's  to  get  me  out  of  the  woods, 
sister  mine.  It's  a  woman's  wit  against 
a  woman's  —  woman's  —  " 

"Now,  don't  say  it.  It's  something 
unkind,  and  I  won't  have  anything 
said  against  Marian,"  and  Dorothy 
made  one  or  two  decisive  gestures  with 
her  gloved  right  hand.  "  She's  the  dear- 
est, the  most  wonderful  —  " 

"  Wait  till  you  hear  this  most  won- 
derful telegram ; "  and  again  Mr.  Bo  wen 
drags  the  telegram  from  his  pocket  and 
reads  it  aloud. 

"Well,  what's  the  matter  with  it, 
Sam  ?  " 

"  I  know  no  T.  Hurt,  and  never 
knew  a  T.  Hurt,  and  Marian  never 
knew  a  T.  Hurt;  that's  all." 

"Why  didn't  you  telephone  right 
back  to  Marian  and  find  out }  " 

"  Telephone  !  Please  observe,  Do- 
rothy, Marian  has  telegraphed.  Our 
backwoods  is  opposed  to  telephones. 
There  are  none." 

"  I  prefer  civilization." 

"  It  is  convenient  in  a  crisis." 

"  Have  you  telegraphed  ?  " 

"  I  have  ;  and,  while  waiting  the  de- 
liberation of  the  Haverly  operator,  I 
thought  kind  Dorothy  would  help  me 
guess  the  answer." 

"  Let  me  see  it,  Sam." 

He  hands  her  the  telegram,  and  she 
looks  at  it,  exclaiming  almost  imme- 
diately :  — 


"  It's  as  plain  as  day." 

"Good;  you're  a  wizard,  Dorothy: 
you're  in  league  with  Marian,  or  you'd 
never  say  that." 

"Now,  listen.  The  operator  has 
made  a  mistake." 

"  That's  reasonable." 

"  He  has  bungled  with  those  first 
words ; "  and  Dorothy  again  bends 
over  the  little  slip  of  yellow  paper. 
"  Marian  probably  said,  '  See  at  Pal- 
ace T.  Hurt ;  '  or  she  mentioned  the 
name  of  some  other  hotel  in  this  town, 
and  the  stupid  creature  has  put  any- 
thing he  liked." 

"  It  happens  to  be  a  woman  at  the 
Haverly  end,  mademoiselle." 

"  Man  or  woman,  there's  a  mistake ; 
thafs  the  point :  and  besides,  it's  all 
that  could  be  expected  of  Haverly," 
ends  Dorothy,  raising  her  head  and 
looking  disdainful. 

"  It  strikes  me  you're  down  on  the 
country." 

"  Indeed  I  am.  I  believe  in  being 
m  things,  and  where  things  are,  as  long 
as  you're  on  this  earth.  Somtimes  I 
almost  weep  at  the  idea  of  Marian 
buried  alive  in  such  a  place." 

"  She  likes  it.  She  has  me,  you 
know." 

"  It's  no'  laughing  matter,  Sam." 
There  is  just  the  suspicipn  of  a  break 
in  Dorothy's  voice.  Then  she  turns 
again  to  the  telegram  still  in  her  hand. 

"  Could  it  be,"  she  goes  on  in  her 
natural  voice,  "  that  Marian  noticed  in 
the  papers  after  you  left  the  name  of 
this  Mr.  Hurt,  a  friend  she  wanted  you 
to  see,  or  some  one  on  business  you 
wanted  to  see  —  " 

"But  how—" 

"Don't  interrupt;  I  might  lose  my 
next  idea  :  or  it  may  be  that  Mr.  Hurt 
came  after   you    left,   and  it's,   '  Here 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


\0'' 


with  me,  T.  Hurt,'  and  she  wants  you 
to  hurry  back  and  see  him." 

"  But,  in  the  name  of  all  your  wis- 
dom, Dorothy,  how  could  I  have  a 
friend  I  never  heard  of, —  or  how  could 
Marian,  for  that  matter, —  or  a  busi- 
ness engagement  with  the  same  anom- 
aly?" 

"  H'm  —  yes  ;   I  see." 

''Well;   I  don't." 

"  I'm  wrong." 

*'  Noble  girl  to  confess." 

"  I  don't  mean  that.  I  was  only 
supposing,  anyway.  But  I'm  sure  that 
operator  has  made  a  mistake.  How 
it  was  made  you  must  find  out  some- 
way, for  I  must  be  going."  Here  Dor- 
othy looks  at  her  watch  and  rises  in 
great  haste. 

"Gracious,  Fm  late!  "  she  exclaims, 
turning  to  leave  the  room  without  more 
ado.     "  Why  did  you  keep  me,  Sam  ?  " 

"  How  could  I  help  it,"  gallantly 
observes  her  brother-in-law,  trying  to 
keep  up  with  her  rapid  pace  as  he  fol- 
lows her  out  of  the  parlor. 

"  You  must  be  sure  and  let  me  know 
all  about  Mr.  Hurt,  Sam,"  she  says,  as 
they  wait  a  moment  for  the  elevator. 
"Let  me  see  him  sometime,"  she  adds. 

"  Now,  Dorothy,  more  wiles,"  her 
brother  is  minded  to  say  provokingly. 
"  Now,  do  leave  this  precious  stranger 
alone." 

"The  idea,"  comes  floating  back  to 
him  as  Dorothy  is  carried  down  and 
away. 

Mr.  Bowen  now  returns  to  his  room, 
deciding,  as  he  has  waited  so  long,  to 
wait  a  little  longer,  for  his  wife's  an- 
swering telegram. 

"This  morning's  work  is  a  fair  sam- 
ple of  what  this  earth  would  be  with 
just  women  on  it,"  he  soliloquizes. 
"  Their  lack  of  forethought  and  clear- 


sightedness is  phenomenal.  Every- 
thing at  loose  ends.  A  man  would 
go  mad  —  stark  mad. 

"  The  Marian  I  know,  and  the  Ma- 
rian of  this  telegram,  are  two  different 
people,"  he  continues,  striking  the  of- 
fending telegram  with  the  backs  of  his 
fingers,  for  he  has  picked  it  up  again. 
"  I  always  thought  that  Jekyll  -  and  - 
Hyde  story  a  bit  of  human  nature  ex- 
aggerated ;  that  we  all  had  something 
of  it  in  us :  but,  I  declare,  I  never 
thought  it  was  coming  out  in  my  own 
family. 

"  Odd,  after  all  these  years.''  At 
this  point  Mr.  Bowen  rests  his  head 
dreamily  on  the  back  of  his  chair. 
"  Marian  has  always  been  so  wise  and 
practical  about  everything ;  about  the 
children  and  the  house;  and  yet  she 
has  kept  up  with  other  things  too.  I 
think  it  was  Somers — or  somebody  — 
said  it  was  so  unusual  to  find  a  woman 
like  Marian  up  in  all  the  new-fangled 
notions,  and  yet  combining  them  beau- 
tifully with  useful  things.  Dear  little 
woman  !  She  seemed  to  have  a  natural 
genius  for  everything. 

"  I  wonder  if  I  have  been  demanding 
too  much  of  Marian."  Here  Mr. 
Bowen  assumes  an  upright  position  in 
his  chair.  "  After  all,  she's  only  a 
frail,  weak  woman.  Can  it  be  pos- 
sible that  Marian  has  broken  down ; 
that  this  Hurt  affair  is  an  hallucina- 
tion ;  that  her  mind  —  Great  God  !  my 
wife  Marian,  the  sanest,  strongest  of 
human  beings  —  "  He  springs  from 
his  chair  in  his  agony,  but  sinks  into 
it  again  on  second  thought.  "  What 
a  fool  to  get  worked  up  over  that ! 
It's  no  such  thing. 

"  It  may  be  nervous  prostration  com- 
ing on.  I  believe  they  have  hallucina- 
tions   in    that.       Is    that    thing  conta- 


io6 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SC HOOL  MA.GAZIXE. 


gious,  I  wonder  ?  Out  in  that  whole- 
some country,  how  could  Marian  catch 
anything  ?  I  suppose  it's  in  the  air,  and 
travels.  Poor  darling !  She's  been 
trying  to  carry  the  universe.  I  see  it  all 
now  ;  —  always  thinking  of  others,  —  of 
me, —  of  the  children.  It's  too  much 
for  any  woman.  What  a  blind  fool  I've 
been  ! 

"  And  then,  she's  probably  alone  too 
much,  just  as  Dorothy  says.  (Dear  Dor- 
othy !  She  nearly  cried  about  it,  and  I 
laughed  at  her;  but  she's  wiser  than 
I  am.)  I  thought  the  children  occu- 
pied Marian ;  and  she's  often  in  town. 
She's  always  cheerful.  It  was  evidently 
forced.  My  poor  Marian  !  My  poor, 
broken  -  spirited  Marian  !  From  this 
time  forth  you  will  find  me  a  different 
husband!" 

This  last  sentence  Mr.  Bowen  says 
aloud,  and  very  solemnly,  rising  from 
his  chair,  and  unconsciously  lifting  his 
right  hand  as  though  taking  an  oath. 

"  I  have  been  the  cause  of  it  all,  my 
uncomplaining,  dearest  wife.  I'll  go 
home  this  minute,  and  I'll  stay  till 
you're  yourself  again.  What's  busi- 
ness? I'll  devote  my  life  to  you. 
What    is    it,    anyway,    compared    with 


yours  ?  Grand,  noble  woman,  hiding 
all  your  troubles  until  you  give  out 
under  it !  " 

Mr.  Bowen  has  actually  deposited 
several  articles  in  his  travelling-bag, 
preparatory  to  going  home,  when  there 
is  a  knock  at  the  door  and  a  telegram 
is  handed  him.  He  tears  it  open,  feel- 
ing it  must  be  a  last  message  from  his 
wife.  He  has  almost  forgotten  T.  Hurt. 
The  telegram  reads :  — 
"  Shirts.  Shirts.  Shirts. 

''  M.    BOIVEN-'' 

"  It  wouldn't  have  cost  Marian  any 
more  to  have  said  it  ten  times,"  criti- 
cally remarks  Mr.  Bowen,  after  he  has 
mastered  the  three  words.  "  H'm  !  I 
should  have  forgotten  those  shirts." 

After  a  few  more  minutes  he  takes 
out  the  first  telegram  and  examines  it 
closely  —  microscopically. 

"  Well,  that's  writing  and  a  half !  " 
he  exclaims  at  length.  "  The  capital 
S,  a  T,  and  separated  from  the  rest  of 
the  company  like  a  sworn  enemy;  and 
the  little  letters  all  run  together."  Then 
he  puts  by  the  telegram,  and  observes 
softly :  "  It'll  take  considerable  of  a 
diplomat  to  know  just  what  to  say  to 
Fred  and  Dorothy  —  and  Marian." 


THE  BOSTOX  COO KI XG-SC HOOL  MAGAZ/XE. 


lO' 


SUGGESTIONS    FOR    HOME    NURSING. 


Bv  M.  C.  Limerick  and  L.  R.  Balderstox 


T/ii'  Sickroom. 

LOCATION. 

Ix  acute  cases  of  illness  the  sick- 
room should  be  as  far  removed  from 
the  noise  of  the  street  as  possible,  on 
the  sunny  side  of  the  house,  and  capa- 
ble of  thorough  ventilation.  An  upper 
floor  is  preferable,  because  of  dryer 
and  purer  air.  If  a  room  on  the  lower 
floor  be  used,  germs  of  disease  may  be 
carried  upwards.  If  the  house  is  in 
the  country,  the  prevailing  winds  should 
be  considered,  and  a  northern  expos- 
ure avoided. 

FURXISHIXG. 

In  building  a  home  one  should  al- 
ways consider  a  sickroom.  Let  the 
tioor  of  this  room  be  painted  or  oiled, 
and  always  without  a  carpet.  The 
walls  should  be  painted  some  delicate 
bright  color,  that  they  may  be  washed 
when  necessary.  Place  only  shades 
at  the  windows. 

Let  the  furniture  be  very  simple, — 
neither  upholstered  nor  elaborate  wick- 
er,—  the  bed  of  brass  or  iron,  two  and 
one-half  feet  high.  The  cover  for  the 
bureau  and  washstand  should  be  of 
washable  material,  plain  towels  being 
better  than  covers  that  will  not  wash. 
Rugs  may  be  used  on  the  tioor. 

When  one  is  not  fortunate  enough 
to  have  an  ideal  sickroom  at  her  dis- 
posal, and  must  prepare  an  ordinary 
bedroom  for  a  patient,  as  far  as  pos- 
sible make  this  sanitary.  This  may 
be  done  by  dusting  the  walls  thoroughly 
with  a  cloth,  and  wiping  the  carpet 
with  a  cloth  wet  in  a  disinfecting  solu- 
tion. Cover  the  carpet  of  a  room  to 
be  used  for  an  operation  with  a  sheet. 


If  an  ordinary  bed  must  remain  in 
the  room,  use  one-half  for  the  day  and 
the  other  half  for  the  night.  Remove 
all  needless  furniture,  and  take  down 
hangings  of  every  kind.  An  invalid's 
table  is  a  useful  article  ;  it  is  better 
than  a  tray,  as  it  can  be  used  for  read- 
ing and  writing,  as  well  as  for  serving 
meals. 

In  chronic  cases  of  illness  the  mat- 
ter of  furniture  is  rather  different.  In 
such  cases  the  room  becomes  the  con- 
stant abiding-place  of  the  invalid,  and 
must  be  made  attractive.  For  hygienic 
reasons  it  is  always  well  to  avoid  fancy 
things,  stuffed  and  tufted  furniture, 
and  hangings  that  cannot  be  washed. 
The  room  may  be  brightened  by 
changes  in  furniture.  This  may  be 
accomplished  by  changing  the  pictures 
and  bringing  fresh,  dainty  things  into 
the  room. 

HEATING. 

A  grate  or  an  open  fire  affords  the 
most  sanitary  way  of  warming  a  sick- 
room. A  gas  stove,  if  used,  should 
be  connected  with  the  chimney,  that 
there  may  be  an  outlet  for  impure  air, 
and,  without  this  connection,  it  should 
not  be  used. 

If  there  is  a  radiator  in  the  room, 
always  keep  a  kettle  of  water  on  this. 
In  case  of  a  stove,  have  the  coal  put 
into  pieces  of  paper  or  bags  before  it 
is  brought  into  the  room,  to  deaden 
the  noise  of  putting  coal  on  the  fire. 
Have  an  ashpan  to  avoid  removing 
ashes  with  a  shovel. 

LIGHTIXG. 

If  the  room  be  very  light,  the  bed 
should   be  so   placed  that   the  patient 


oS 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCIIOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


will  lie  with  back  to  the  window,  and 
a  screen  may  be  used.  In  some  cases 
of  illness  the  room  must  be  darkened, 
but,  unless  special  directions  are  given, 
keep  it  light  and  cheerful.  In  summer 
time  an  awning  softens  the  light.  The 
shades  should  be  so  arranged  that 
there  will  be  no  flapping  when  the 
windows  are  open.  This  produces  an 
irritating  noise,  and  unpleasant  flashes 
of  light.  If  the  shades  must  be  down 
while  the  windows  are  open,  the  edges 
may  be  held  w^ith  pins.  The  light  at 
night  should  always  be  cut  off  by  a 
screen.  Such  a  screen  may  be  quickly 
made  by  fastening  a  piece  of  cardboard 
to  the  shade  with  wire. 

A  screen  for  the  room  may  be  made 
by  placing  two  high-back  chairs  near 
each  other,  and  spreading  a  sheet  over 
them  ;  or  a  clotheshorse  may  be  used 
for  the  frame. 

TEMPERATURE. 

Hang  a  thermometer  in  the  middle 
of  the  room,  and  keep  the  temperature 
as  even  as  possible.  For  lung  trouble 
it  should  be  kept  at  about  70°  Fahr., 
but  in  fevers  lower  (about  65°  Fahr.). 
The  temperature  of  the  patient  be- 
comes lower  at  night,  between  the 
hours  of  twelve  and  four  a.m.,  the  vital 
powers  being  at  their  lowest  ebb.  In 
serious  illness  the  patient  must  be  care- 
fully watched,  and  hot  drinks  be  given, 
and  extra  blankets  and  hot-water  bags 
applied,  if  the  body  temperature  de- 
creases. The  temperature  of  the  room 
must  be  regulated  by  opening  and  clos- 
ing the  register  and  using  extra  cloth- 
ing, not  by  closing  the  windows  and 
thus  shutting  off  the  supply  of  fresh  air, 

VENTILATION. 

Ventilation  is  circulation  (pure  air 
displacing  impure  air).  Professor  You- 
mans   declared    four   things   necessary 


to  secure  good  ventilation  :  First,  pure 
air  must  get  in ;  second,  impure  air 
must  get  out ;  third,  the  supply  must 
be  sufficient;  fourth,  there  must  be  no 
offensive  current. 

A  window-board  is  the  most  inex- 
pensive and  valuable  means  of  ventila- 
tion. A  board,  four  to  six  inches  in 
height,  is  fitted  exactly  in  the  window- 
frame,  the  sash  is  raised,  the  board 
placed  in  position,  and  the  window 
closed  on  the  board.  Lower  another 
window  at  the  top  for  the  outlet  of 
impure  air.  The  window-board  not 
being  available,  open  a  window,  top 
and  bottom,  being  careful  never  to 
have  a  draught. 

If  there  is  an  open  fire  in  the  room, 
drop  a  window  at  the  top  for  the  pure 
air  to  come  in  ;  the  impure  air  will  go 
out  the  fireplace.  When  the  weather  is 
too  hot  for  a  fire,  a  candle  or  small 
lamp  may  be  placed  in  the  grate.  Pure 
air  is  always  essential  for  persons  in 
health ;  it  is  much  more  important 
for  those  who  are  ill.  The  air  of  the 
room  must  be  kept  pure  and  fresh. 

To  keep  a  room  cool  in  hot  weather  is 
not  always  an  easy  thing  to  accomplish, 
but,  with  a  little  care  and  forethought, 
it  can  be  made  fairly  comfortable. 
After  the  room  has  been  thoroughly 
aired  in  the  morning  close  the  blinds 
and  windows  during  the  day,  shutting 
out  the  hot  air  and  sun ;  open  them 
in  the  evening;  the  room  will  be  cooler, 
and  the  patient  will  have  a  more  com- 
fortable night.  One  method,  which 
gives  a  very  cool  appearance  to  the 
room,  is  to  place  branches  of  trees  in 
a  tub  with  water  and  ice,  and  set  it  in 
front  of  the  window.  Another  method 
is  to  hang  a  wet  sheet  in  the  room. 
In  winter  a  hot,  dry  air,  that  is  irritat- 
ing,  may  be  moistened  by  a  kettle  of 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


109 


boiling  water,  or  a  hot  brick  placed  in 
a  pail  of  water. 

There  is  little  danger  of  the  patient 
taking  cold  in  bed,  therefore  it  is  well 
to  give  an  air  bath  to  the  room  once 
or  twice  a  day.  This  may  be  done  by 
covering  the  patient  with  extra  blan- 
kets, tucking  them  in  around  the  body, 
then  opening  the  window.  When  the 
air  of  the  room  has  been  changed,  close 
the  window,  letting  the  patient  remain 
covered  until  the  temperature  of  the 
room  is  again  the  same.  Remove  the 
blankets  gradually,  so  as  not  to  make 
the  change  too  marked,  and  the  invalid 
will  be  more  comfortable  for  the  fresh  air. 

CARE    OF    THE    ROOM. 

If  there  is  a  carpet  in  the  room,  wipe 
this  with  a  disinfecting  solution.  Rugs 
should  be  taken  out  and  well  shaken, 
and  the  floor  washed  up  every  day 
with  a  broom,  covered  with  a  canton- 
flannel  bag,  wet  slightly;  or  a  mop  may 
be  used.  Burn  dust,  if  any  is  taken 
up ;  wipe  furniture  with  a  damp  piece 
of  cheese-cloth. 

Towels,  covers,  and  all  soiled  things 
must  be  removed,  and  fresh  ones  put 
in  their  places.  All  vessels  must  be 
emptied  as  soon  as  used,  and  no  soiled 
clothing,  or  anything  not  perfectly 
clean,  left  in  the  room.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  the  sickroom  is  the 
home  of  the  patient  during  the  time  he 


is  in  it,  and  great  pains  should  be 
taken  by  the  nurse  to  keep  it  clean, 
bright,  and  cheerful.  Medicines  must 
be  put  out  of  sight,  and  the  bottles 
kept  clean.  All  glasses  containing 
medicine  must  be  covered ;  if  disin- 
fecting solution  be  necessary,  it  must 
not  be  where  it  will  be  seen. 

Flowers  in  the  sickroom  are  not 
objectionable  unless  they  have  a  heavy 
odor.  They  should  not  be  kept  in 
the  room  at  night,  and  the  water  should 
be  changed  daily.  The  cheerfulness 
they  afford  may  render  their  presence 
desirable. 

In  an  adjoining  room  or  hall  certain 
things  should  be  kept  for  the  nurse's 
convenience,  to  avoid  unnecessary  go- 
ing up  and  down  stairs.  A  window 
box  in  winter,  or  a  nursery  refrigerator, 
is  very  useful. 

The  Nurse. 

A  person  who  attends  or  nurses  a 
patient  should  wear  cotton  dresses, 
with  little  starch,  and  shoes  that  are 
light  and  noiseless.  Aprons  without 
starch  are  always  necessary,  and  mus- 
lin cuffs  may  be  used  to  protect  the 
dress  sleeves. 

A  trained  nurse  has  said  that  a 
nurse's  qualifications  should  be  ability, 
common  sense,  gentle  firmness  and 
decision,  knowledge  of  cleanliness,  and 
willingness  to  obey  orders. 


I  lO 


THE  BOSTON  COO KIXC-SCIIOO L  MAUA/JXK. 


SOME  DUTIES  OF  A  WAITRESS. 

By  Catherine  J.  Coolidge,  formerly  of  Drexel  Institute. 

PART  V. 

Care  of  the  Pantry. 


The  duties  which  the  waitress  meets 
in  the  pantry  may  be  considered  under 
the  following  heads  :  — 

1.  Piling  and  preparing  the  soiled 
dishes  for  washing. 

2.  Care  of  food  left  from  the  meal. 

3.  Washing  and  wiping  dishes. 

4.  Care  of  dishpans,  dish  towels,  and 
sink. 

5.  Cleaning  silver. 

6.  Care  of  sugar  bowls,  salt  cups, 
etc. 

These  duties  are  oftentimes  found 
most  burdensome.  Is  it  not  usually 
because  she  does  not  spend  time 
enough  in  arranging  the  necessary 
utensils  and  in  properly  preparing  the 
dishes  for  washing?  Five  additional 
minutes  spent  in  carefully  gathering, 
scraping,  and  rinsing  the  dishes  will 
save  at  least  fifteen  minutes  in  washing 
and  putting  them  away,  besides  the 
ease  with  which  this  part  of  the  work 
may  be  done. 

Utensils  and  Materials  Required  in  the 
Care  of  the  Pantry. 

I  strainer  for  the  sink  {solid  tin  side,  but 
perforated  on  the  bottom ;  holes  about  -^.  inch 
in  diameter). 

I  granite-ware  dishpan. 

I  granite-ware  rinsing-pan. 

I  small  fibre  tub. 

I  granite-ware  pitcher  (wide-mouthed,  for 
soaking  the  silver). 

I  dish  drainer. 

I  soap  shaker. 

1  dish  mop. 

2  dishcloths. 

I  soft  brush  for  cut  glass. 

I  soft  brush  for  cleaning  silver. 


Silver  towels. 

Soft  crash  towels. 

I  box  of  whiting. 

I  box  of  electro-silicon. 

I  box  of  putz  pomade. 

I  bottle  of  ammonia. 

I  bottle  of  alcohol. 

6  pieces  of  flannel  (5  inches  square,  for 
scouring). 

Old  damask  napkins. 

I  chamois  skin. 

I  large  box  of  basswood  or  boxwood  saw- 
dust. 

The  sink  strainer  should  be  placed 
just  over  the  opening  into  the  drain, 
and  all  liquids  from  the  dishes  should 
be  poured  through  it. 

The  dishcloths  should  be  made  of 
soft  crash;  if  made  of  old  crash  towels 
not  too  much  worn,  they  can  be  more 
easily  handled. 

The  "silver"  towels  are  used  for 
glass,  silver,  cups  and  saucers,  and 
all  small,  delicate  dishes.  The  crash 
towels  should  be  used  for  the  remain- 
ing dishes. 

Dish  towels  are  commonly  made  one 
yard  long,  but,  if  the  crash  towels  are 
one  and  a  quarter  yards,  they  will  be 
found  more  convenient  in  wiping  plat- 
ters, vegetable  dishes,  etc. 
Pili?ig  the  Soiled  Dishes  and  Preparing 
Them  for  Washing. 

The  pantry  should  be  supplied  with 
enough  shelves  for  the  safe  disposal  of 
the  soiled  dishes  as  they  are  brought 
from  the  dining-room.  As  soon  as 
time  can  be  spared  from  the  dining- 
room,  the  waitress  should  ^scrape  the 
dishes    quietly    and    thoroughly,    and 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


I  I  I 


pile  all  of  the  same  size  and  kind  to- 
gether. Use  a  bit  of  bread  for  scrap- 
ing glassware,  delicate  dishes,  soup 
ladle,  fish  knife,  etc. 

Pour  all  liquid  waste  from  the  dishes 
through  the  strainer  into  the  sink. 
Empty  and  wash  the  strainer  before 
beginning  to  wash  the  dishes. 

Put  the  silver  in  a  pitcher  filled  with 
warm  (not  hot)  soapy  water  and  allow 
it  to  soak  while  scraping  the  other 
dishes.  Do  not  soak  knives  with 
pearl,  bone,  or  ivory  handles,  but  put 
them  aside  and  wash  and  wipe  them,  a 
few  at  a  time,  so  that  the  handles  do 
not  go  into  the  water. 

Fill  the  milk  and  cream  pitchers, 
Avhipped- cream  bowl,  ice-cream  dish, 
and  egg  dishes  with  cold  water. 

Arrange  the  glass  near  where  the 
dishpan  is  to  stand,  then  the  cups 
and  saucers,  pitchers,  silver,  etc.  The 
plan  is  this, — to  place  the  cleanest 
dishes  nearest  the  dishpan  and  grade 
them  from  the  pan,  until  those  most 
soiled  are  farthest  away. 

Care  of  Food  Left  from  the  Meal.  ' 

As  the  food  is  brought  from  the 
dining-room,  send  it  immediately  to  the 
kitchen,  that  it  may  be  cared  for  there, 
and  may  not  be  in  the  way  in  the 
pantry. 

There  should  be  a  special  receptacle 
for  all  solid  table  refuse.  The  liquid 
waste  should  be  poured  through  the 
tin  strainer  in  the  sink.  At  the  end  of 
each  meal  the  garbage  must  be  emptied 
into  the  garbage  bucket  out  of  doors. 

In  summer,  to  prevent  foul  odors 
and  insure  perfect  cleanliness,  the 
bucket  should  be  frequently  rinsed 
with  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime  or 
other  good  disinfectant. 

Washing  and  Wiping  Dishes. 

Fill  the  dishpan  with  moderately  hot 


suds.  If  the  size  of  the  pantry  permit 
of  its  use,  fill  the  rinsing -pan  with 
clear  hot  water,  and  place  it  next  the 
dishpan. 

The  sink  may  he  used  for  rinsing 
dishes,  but  never  for  washing  them 

Wash  the  glass  first.  Cut  glass 
may  be  cleaned  with  a  soft  brush. 
Handle  each  piece  very  carefully ; 
place  it  in  the  water  sideways  and 
turn  it  about  quickly,  so  that  every 
part  will  be  equally  heated  as  soon  as 
possible.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
to  prevent  scratching  the  glass,  even 
in  the  slightest  degree,  either  by  con- 
tact with  other  dishes  or  by  a  grain  of 
sand  in  the  dishpan.  Even  a  slight 
scratch  weakens  the  glass,  and  at  that 
point  it  is  prone  to  break.  Probably 
many  a  valuable  piece  has  been  de- 
stroyed in  this  way. 

Rmse  the  glass  and  wipe  without 
draining. 

After  wiping  cut  glass,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  pack  it  in  a  box  of  basswood 
or  boxwood  sawdust,  where  it  should 
remain  until  the  moisture  has  been 
absorbed  from  all  the  corners  which 
the  towel  could  not  reach.  When  dry 
polish  with  a  clean,  soft  towel,  and 
finally  with  chamois. 

Always  handle  fine  pieces  of  clean 
glass  with  a  chamois,  that  they  may 
not  be  dulled  by  finger  marks. 

Use  basswood  or  boxwood  sawdust, 
because  other  kinds  are  likely  to  scratch 
the  glass,  and  sawdust  of  resinous 
woods  leaves  a  pitchy  deposit  which, 
is  very  difl&cult  to  remove.  The  saw- 
dust may  be  used  repeatedly  if  well 
spread  and  dried  each  time  after  using. 

Glass  dishes  used  for  serving  ice- 
cream should  stand,  until  they  have 
taken  the  room  temperature,  or  they 
will  break  when  put  into  hot  water. 


I  12 


THE  BOSTOX  COO K I XG-SC HOO L  MAGAZIXE. 


When  washing  the  dishes,  put  only 
one  kind  and  shape  into  the  pan  at 
one  time;  for  instance,  wash  and  wipe 
all  the  cups  first,  then  the  pile  of 
saucers ;  next,  the  small  plates,  and 
so  on.  Pitchers,  vegetable  or  other 
large  dishes  with  handles,  should  be 
washed  one  at  a  time. 

Dishes  decorated  in  gilt  and  delicate 
colors  should  not  be  washed  with  very 
hot  water  or  strong  suds,  and  should 
be  removed  from  the  water  as  soon  as 
possible. 

As  the  silver  is  wiped,  it  should  be 
placed  on  a  tray  covered  with  a  clean 
towel. 

After  washing  steel  knives  (case 
knives)  scour  them  with  bath  brick  or 
sand  soap,  then  rinse  them  in  warm 
water.  Perhaps  what  was  said  in  a 
previous  article  regarding  the  cleaning 
of  carvers  will  bear  repeating.  Carvers 
should  not  be  cleansed  with  hot  water 
(according  to  an  intelligent  -  looking 
butcher),  because  it  ruins  the  temper 
of  the  steel.  Wipe  them  with  soft 
paper,  and,  if  necessary,  scour  them ; 
rinse  quickly  in  lukewarm  water  to 
remove  the  brick.  Wipe  quickly.  Un- 
less stained,  use  only  paper  in  clean- 
ing them.  If  bone  or  ivory  knife 
handles  become  spotted  and  stained, 
rub  vigorously  with  a  paste  of  whiting 
and  water.  Use  the  same  preparation 
for  removing  tea  and  coffee  stains 
from  the  bottom  of  cups  and  tea- 
pots. 

•  The  dish-water  must  be  changed 
after  washing  the  glass  and  silver  (if 
the  quantity  is  l-arge),  and  again  after 
washing  the  small  pieces  of  china.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  put  away  all  the  clean 
dishes  before  refilling  the  dishpan  with 


fresh  water.  This  leaves  room  for 
the  other  dishes  as  they  are  washed. 
Always  leave  the  dishpan  free  from 
grease. 

At  least  once  a  week  pour  a  hot 
solution  of  washing-soda  down  the 
sink  and  follow  it  with  a  large  quan- 
tity of  hot  water. 

Use  soda  and  water  in  the  following 
proportions  :  — 

^-  cup  of  washing-soda. 

2  quarts  of  boiling  water. 

Heat  them  together  until  the  soda 
is  dissolved. 

Use  all  this  solution,  boiling  hot,  for 
one  application. 

If,  through  carelessness  or  neglect, 
the  sink  pipe  becomes  clogged  with 
grease,  treat  it  with  a  solution  four 
times  as  strong.  Some  housekeepers 
always  keep  a  piece  of  washing-soda 
over  the  sink  strainer  during  the  day, 
and  the  constant  wash  of  the  water 
dissolves  the  soda  and  keeps  the  pipe 
free  from  grease.  Even  after  this 
treatment  the  hot  application  should 
be  made  occasionally. 

Washing  the  Towels. 

Fill  the  small  tub  with  lukewarm 
suds  and  soak  the  towels  for  ten  min- 
utes. Wash  the  towels,  then  the  mop 
and  dishcloths.  Rinse  in  two  changes 
of  clear,  cold  water,  and  hang  them  out 
of  doors  to  dry. 

Use  a  fresh  towel  for  the  glass  and 
silver. 

Unless  the  number  of  dishes  is  very 
large,  only  four  towels  should  be  in 
use  at  one  time.  Washing  the  towels 
daily  after  luncheon  and  dinner,'^with 
the  additional  weekly  washing  and 
boiling,  should  keep  them  in  excellent 
condition. 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SC HOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


I  I 


HOME  APPLICATION  OF  COOKING-SCHOOL  METHODS. 

Bv  Alice  E.  Whitaker. 


The  natural  conservatism  of  house- 
keepers is  a  potent  reason  why  cook- 
ing-school methods  advance  slowly. 
The  popular  delusion  that  cooking- 
schools  teach  extravagance  is  another 
reason  for  the  truth  of  the  statement 
that  "scientific  cookery  is  one  of  the 
least  accepted  reforms."  Ignorance, 
too,  of  what  cooking-school  methods 
really  are  prevails  to  a  great  extent. 
The  National  Grange  recently  pub- 
lished a  list  of  topics  to  be  discussed 
by  the  thousands  of  members  all  over 
the  country,  and  one  was  the  question 
whether  cooking-school  methods  are 
adapted  to  the  ordinary  home.  Many 
women's  clubs,  also,  have  discussed 
the  same  topic  with  seriousness  and 
interest,  but  always  with  much  theo- 
rizing. 

During  the  past  few  years  several 
opportuoities  to  test  the  practical  value 
of  cooking-school  methods  have  come 
into  my  own  home,  where  small  econo- 
mies are  by  no  means  neglected  or  un- 
necessary. After  several  years  of  board- 
ing-house life  as  a  rest  from  housekeep- 
ing, I  again  took  up  the  cares  and 
responsibilities  of  a  home  of  my  own. 
The  first  help  in  my  newly  established 
kitchen  was  a  young  Irish  widow,  who 
had  kept  her  own  house,  and  naturally 
had  become  settled  in  some  of  her  house- 
keeping convictions.  Innovations  on 
her  old  methods  were  made  slowly  but 
successfully,  and  she  enjoyed  the  re- 
sults of  accurate  methods.  Yet,  once 
in  a  while,  the  bread  would  have  a 
"  tang."  Then  she  would  acknowledge 
having  mixed  it  the  night  before,  and 


found  it  raised  too  much  that  warm 
summer  morning.  She  confessed  it 
was  more  work  on  a  hot  evening  to 
get  out  bowl,  flour,  and  yeast,  mix  the 
bread,  and  then  hurry  to  knead  it  in 
the  morning  before  she  could  begin 
the  breakfast;  but  the  force  of  habit 
made  her  occasionally  take  all  that 
trouble,  when  she  knew  the  conven- 
ience and  the  inevitable  success  of 
making  five-hour  bread.  It  was  the 
height  of  her  ambition  to  make  a  per- 
fect pie,  and  she  reached  it.  She  did 
not  attempt  a  great  variety,  but  after 
eleven  months  I  was  happy  to  have 
her  leave  me  with  ability  to  earn  in- 
creased wages  as  a  cook  in  a  small 
country  hotel,  where  I  am  sure  the 
wayfaring  man  and  woman  could  find 
a  well-broiled  steak,  light,  sweet  bread, 
vegetables  well  seasoned,  and  excel- 
lent specimens  of  New  England  pie,  as 
a  result  of  cooking -school  methods 
learned  in  my  kitchen. 

My  next  experience  was  with  a  young 
colored  girl  not  out  of  her  teens.  Her 
first  task  was  to  prepare  some  vege- 
tables for  soup.  !Much  to  my  surprise, 
she  cut  the  potato  first  in  slices  one 
way  then  in  an  opposite  direction,  and 
turning  it,  yet  intact,  down  on  the 
plate,  she  deftly  sliced  it  in  regular- 
shaped  cubes  after  the  most  approved 
cooking-school  method.  When  I  asked 
where  she  learned  this,  she  replied : 
•'  In  the  public  school."  Then  I  knew 
there  was  good  foundation  for  future 
instruction,  and  so  it  proved ;  but  her 
severe  illness  soon  after  cut  short  our 
progress  as  teacher  and  pupil. 


114 


THE  A'OSTOX  COOA'/XC-SCnOOL  MAGAZ/XE. 


The  next  in  the  procession  of  kitchen 
help  was  a  little  spare  colored  woman, 
about  forty  years  of  age,  who  had  been 
in  the  North  about  two  years.  Here 
would  seem  to  be  the  least  hope  of 
teaching  new  ways,  and  getting  im- 
proved results ;  but  her  interest  was 
at  once  roused  by  the  illustrations  in 
a  modern  cook-book,  and,  as  she  could 
read,  she  often  made  this  text-book 
her  companion  when  resting  in  the 
afternoon  or  early  evening.  The  col- 
ored cooks'  famous  inability  to  bind 
themselves  to  rules  and  recipes  had  a 
notable  exception  in  Hannah,  who 
would  follow  requirements  exactly, 
although,  if  I  happened  to  be  near, 
she  would  often  say :  "  Reckin  dat 
about  right  ?  "  But  this  was  only  an 
appearance  of  guessing;  in  reality  she 
was  accurate  as  a  machine,  and  often 
said,  in  a  pleased  tone  :  ''  Reckin  Ise 
learnin'  sumpin  new  every  day." 

The  uncongenial  climate  made  her 
an  invalid,  and  once  more  there  was  a 
vacancy  in  my  kitchen.  This  was  filled 
later  by  a  colored  girl,  who  had  spent 
more  than  a  year  at  Hampton  Institute, 
Virginia.      She  was  systematic  to  the 


letter  in  her  work,  and  the  instruction 
in  household  arts  she  had  received  at 
that  school  proved  a  good  foundation 
for  another  experiment.  She  took  the 
books  used  at  the  cooking  -  school  as 
authority  to  be  relied  on,  and  followed 
recipes  without  deviation.  I  often  ex- 
plained or  called  attention  to  principles. 

Circumstances  made  it  necessary  for 
her  to  go  South  again,  and  her  successor 
is  a  tidy  maid  from  the  Provinces,  who 
came  to  me  with  habits  of  extreme 
neatness  and  some  knowledge  of  sim- 
ple cookery.  Although  she  has  never 
been  in  a  cooking-school,  or  heard  a 
demonstration  lecture,  her  deft  manner 
of  measuring  and  mixing,  her  taste  in 
garnishing,  and  her  faithfulness  to 
school  methods  would  do  credit  to  a 
normal  graduate,  and  certainly  her 
habit  enhances  the  comfort  of  the  fam- 
ily, to  say  nothing  of  economy. 

This  humble  experience  is  submitted 
with  the  hope  that  it  may  have  some 
weight  in  the  argument  that  cookery 
be  made  something  more  than  a  con- 
tinuous series  of  experiments,*  and  that 
it  may  reach,  eventually,  the  dignity  of 
a  science,  even  in  the  home  kitchen. 


'WAY    DOWN    ON    THE   PLANTATION, 

By  Kate  M.  Post. 


What  you  say,  Miss  Becky? 

Miss  Jinnie  gwin  ter  school, 
Whar  dey  larns  "  mestic  science, 

An  cookin'  by  a  rule  ? 

Dis  yur  "  mestic  science"  — 
Dat's  sumpun  new  fo'  sho ; 

But  what  she  larn  ter  cook  fo'  ? 
Dat's  what  I  wants  t'  know. 


Ain't  I  dun  cook  good  'nough, 
Since  ebber  she  was  bohn  ? 

Dey  ain't  no  rules  for  makin' 
A  puddin'  ob  de  cohn. 

Doan  she  play  de  music, 
An'  make  dat  lobely  lace, 

A  sittin'  on  de  gal'ry  — 

Ain't  dat  Miss  Jinnie's  place? 


Dis  yur  "  mestic  science," 
Dat  mought  be  good  t'  know 

But  when  she  fry  de  chicken 
Den  Dinah's  boun'  ter  go. 


THE  ROSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


115 


THE  MIXING  AND  BAKING  OF  CAKE, 

By  Janet  M.  Hill. 

Cake  is  acceptable  at  every  kind  of  luncheon;  in  fact,  cakes  were  invented  for  that  meal, 
for  five-o'clock  tea,  weddings,  and  for  schoolboys  only. —  Wyveryi. 


In  this  article  we  are  to  consider 
those  forms  of  dough  and  batter  to 
which,  after  cooking,  the  term  "cake" 
is  applied.  Thudicum  speaks  of  cakes 
as  "forms  of  sweetened,  flavored,  and 
ornamented  bread  that  signalize  an 
evolution  of  cookery,  and,  like  confec- 
tionery, or  including  it,  are  a  measure 
of  culture."  He  adds:  "  The  produc- 
tion of  novelty  has,  in  our  opinion, 
very  small  chance  of  success,  particu- 
larly after  the  acknowledgment  of  Ca- 
re'me  that  he  had  failed  in  it." 

There  is  much  of  sentiment  con- 
nected with  different  varieties  of  cake, 
which,  apart  from  any  intrinsic  merit 
contained  therein,  commend  them  to 
their  sponsors. 

Probably  the  cakes  of  greatest  an- 
tiquity that  are  still  in  use  are  those 
lightened  with  yeast,  as  French  brioche, 
Polish  baba,  kugelhopfe  of  the  Ger- 
mans, ratan  cake,  claimed  by  both  the 
French  and  Germans,  English  Bath 
buns,  and  Scotch  shortbread.  The 
forms  in  which  these  cakes  appear  are 
numerous,  varying  with  the  object  for 
which  they  are  intended.  They  are 
modified  also  by  the  addition  of  fruit, 
nuts,  etc.  Sometimes,  too,  they  are 
served  with  a  rich  syrup,  flavored  with 
wine,  in  which  case  they  partake  more 
of  the  character  of  a  pudding. 

In  respect  to  manipulation,  these 
cakes  may  be  classed  under  two  heads, 
of  which  brioche  and  ratan  cake  may 
be  taken  as  representatives.  Brioche 
is    partly    flaky,   and    rises    in    layers ; 


while  the  ratan  cake  rises  like  sponge 
cake,  in  minute  and  uniform  bubbles. 
While  these  cakes  are  common  abroad, 
especially  in  the  countries  to  which 
they  owe  their  origin,  outside  of  our 
large  cities  they  are  not  well  known 
to  housekeepers  in  the  United  States. 
And,  though  in  the  cities  there  seems 
to  be  an  increasing  demand  for  this 
sort  of  toothsome  dainty,  yet,  because 
of  the  time  required  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  all  yeast  mixtures,  many  house- 
keepers do  not  attempt  the  production, 
but  depend  for  a  supply  upon  some 
restaurant  of  noted  excellence.  Cof- 
fee cakes  and  zwieback  (the  last  prop- 
erly called  biscuit,  because  literally 
twice  baked)  are  the  most  common 
forms  of  these  confections. 

Xear  akin  to  the  ratan  cake  is  the 
election,  or  loaf  cake,  so  common  in 
the  early  days  of  our  republic. 

What  is  sold  abroad  as  biscuit,  and 
here  as  sponge  cake,  and  cakes  made 
with  butter,  and  known  as  cup  and 
pound  cakes,  are  the  cakes  most  in 
evidence  in  this  country.  Of  these, 
sponge  cake  and  pound  cake,  when 
tradition  is  followed,  are  lightened 
simply  by  the  expansion  of  air  incor- 
porated into  eggs  by  beating.  Cup 
cakes  are  lightened  partly  by  this 
method,  but  principally  by  the  addition 
of  carbon  dioxide  set  free  from  a  car- 
bonate by  an  acid,  as  described  in  the 
article  on  "  Batters  and  Doughs,"  in 
the  August  -  September  issue  of  this 
magazine. 


i6 


THE  BOSTOX  COOK  J  XG-SCIIOOL  MAGAZIXE, 


No  article  on  cakes  would  be  com- 
plete without  special  mention  of  mer- 
ingues and  petits  choux^  or  cakelets 
made  of  choux  paste.  Of  the  first 
Thudicum  says:  "Meringues  are  clas- 
sical confections,  having  a  good  pros- 
pect of  immortality,  as  they  cannot 
easily  be  improved,  spoiled,  or  altered. 
They  have  probably  a  history  of  more 
than  a  thousand  years."  Swedish 
meringues,  in  which  starch  supplies 
the  place  of  a  part  of  the  egg  whites, 
are  a  confection  that  may  be  classed 
with  sponge  cake.  Petits  choux  may 
be  regarded  as  the  connecting  link 
between  cake  and  pastry ;  they  afford 
us  ground  for  considering,  as  do  the 
French,  the  matter  of  cakes  as  a  part 
of  the  general  subject  of  pastry.  These 
cakes  are  made  of  a  batter  previously 
boiled,  and  eggs;  the  hollow  centres, 
when  baked,  are  filled  with  sweetened 
and  flavored  cream  or  a  custard  mix- 
ture. 

Prelim  inaries. 

Before  beginning  to  mix  cake  have 
everything  needed  at  hand,  and  in 
such  condition  that  the  ingredients  can 
be  put  together  quickly  ;   />.,  — 

1.  Measure  or  weigh  out  the  exact 
quantities  of  the  different  ingredients 
to  be  used.  Weight  is  preferable  to 
measure,  especially  in  the  case  of  but- 
ter. 

2.  Sift  the  flour  before  measuring, 
and  sift  again  with  the  baking-powder, 
or  soda  and  cream-of-tartar. 

3.  Pulverize  and  sift  soda  before 
measuring,  and  add  always  to  the  flour; 
baking-powder  is  better  sifted,  but  it 
may  be  made  light  by  working  with  a 
spoon. 

4.  To  cream  butter  successfully,  it 
should  be  at  about  the  temperature  of 
the    living-room   (70°   Fahr.).      If    too 


cold,  it  may  stand  a  short  time  in  the 
mixing-bowl  after  that  has  been  heated 
slightly  with  warm  water  and  wiped 
dry. 

5.  Have  the  pans  (if  the  ordinary 
pan  be  used)  buttered  and  floured,  or 
lined  with  paper,  and  the  paper  but- 
tered. 

6.  Break  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  over 
a  cup,  separating  whites  from  yolks 
when  desired.  Beat  the  yolks,  but  let 
the  whites  stand  unbeaten  in  a  cool 
place  until  the  cake  is  nearly  mixed. 

7.  When  fruit  is  used,  cut  citron  in 
slices,  and  then  in  narrow  strips  ;  seed 
raisins,  and  cut  them  in  pieces  ;  remove 
stems  from  sultanas ;  wash  currants 
on  a  coarse  sieve,  then  dry.  Fruit  to 
be  mixed  through  a  cake  may  be  added 
to  the  butter  and  sugar  creamed  to- 
gether, without  dredging  with  flour ; 
to  be  added  at  last,  dredge  with  flour ; 
in  layers,  dredge  lightly  with  flour, 
then,  when  the  cake  is  mixed,  sprinkle 
in  between  layers  of  cake  mixture. 

The  Fire. 
Electricity,  gas,  or  oil,  the  heat  from 
all  of  which  may  be  regulated  to  a 
nicety,  are  ideal  fuels  for  baking;  and 
in  no  branch  of  cooking  is  such  nice 
adjustment  of  heat  demanded  as  in  the 
baking  of  cake  and  pastry.  Even  at 
the  present  prices,  where  one  is  to  bake 
several  cakes  in  a  morning  (as  do  con- 
signors to  industrial  unions,  etc.),  elec- 
tricity or  gas  will  be  found  more  eco- 
nomical than  coal.  If  the  fuel  be 
wood  or  coal,  the  fire  should  be  in  such 
condition  that  it  may  be  regulated 
easily,  and  last  through  the  baking 
without  being  replenished  ;  /.<?.,  do  not 
attempt  to  bake  a  delicate  cake  mix- 
ture with  a  freshly  built  coal  fire,  or 
with  a  fire  from  which  the  life  has  largely 
died  out. 


THE  BOSTOX  CUUKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXL. 


117 


An  oven  thermometer  is  of  the  great- 
est assistance  in  regulating  the  heat  of 
an  oven,  no  matter  what  fuel  may  be 
used. 

Temperature  of  the   Oven. 

Layer  cake  and  small  cakes  require 
a  hotter  oven  than  loaf  cake. 

So  cakes  made  with  baking-powder 
call  for  a  higher  temperature  (the  car- 
bon dioxide  is  evolved  more  quickly* 
than  do  cakes  made  with  cream-of- 
tartar  and  soda,  lemon  juice  and  soda, 
or  molasses  and  soda. 

Biscuit,  or  sponge  cake  and  pound 
cake,  will  bake  at  a  lower  temperature 
than  cake  lightened  with  carbon  di- 
oxide. 

Also,  cakes  made  rich  with  yolks  of 
eggs  require  less  heat  that  cakes  made 
with  whites  of  eggs;  /.  e,,  an  oven 
should  be  hotter  for  an  angel  cake 
than  for  a  yellow  form  of  sponge  cake 
(}'olks  of  eggs  are  rich  in  fat,  hence 
they  burn  quickly). 

Cake    containing    fruit    should    be 
baked  in  a  slow  oven. 
Utensils. 

Eirthen  bowls  for  mixing  the  ingre- 
dients and  beating  eggs,  a  slitted 
wooden  spoon,  an  ordinary-sized  sieve 
for  flour,  a  small  sieve  for  soda,  etc.. 
a  Dover  egg-beater,  an  egg-whisk,  pas- 
try bag  and  tubes  for  lady- fingers, 
eclairs,  and  frosting,  a  small  saucepan 
for  boiling  sugar,  scales,  measuring- 
cups,  and  a  variety  of  baking-tins,  are 
the  most  important  utensils  needed  for 
work  in  this  branch  of  the  culinary  art. 
Materials. 

Cake  has  come  to  be  classed  with 
confectionery,  and  to  be  eaten  only 
occasionally  as  a  luxury.  Thus,  in  its 
preparation,  the  choicest  rnaterials  are 
demanded,  —  the  best  flour  and  butter, 
fine  granulated  sugar,  fresh  eggs  and 


choice  fruits,  nuts  and  flavorings.  The 
miller,  by  skilful  devices,  has  evolved 
a  flour  especially  adapted  to  produce 
a  light,  tender,  delicate  cake :  when 
this  is  not  available,  the  choicest  pastry 
flour  should  be  selected.  Bread  flour 
is  sometimes  used,  but,  as  it  contains  a 
large  quantity,  comparatively,  of  gluten, 
it  gives  a  thick,  compact  cake.  Our 
recipes  are  written  for  pastry  flour,  save 
in  yeast  mixtures,  and  it  may  be  nec- 
essary to  increase  or  diminish,  slightly, 
the  quantity,  as  the  thickening  prop- 
erty of  flDur  varies;  when  bread  flour 
is  used,  the  quantit}'  given  should  be 
diminished  by  two  level  tablespoonfuls 
for  each  cup. 

Spices  should  be  sifted  with  the 
flour. 

Fine  granulated  sugar  gives  the  best 
results,  powdered  sugar  making  a  close 
dry  cake,  and  coarse  granulated  sugar 
a  very  coarse-grained  cake. 

If  cream-of- tartar  and  soda  can  be 
accurately  measured,  these  will,  in  gen- 
eral, give  a  more  perfect  cake  than 
baking-powder.  The  novice,  however, 
will  succeed  better  with  baking-pow- 
der. A  pound  cake  is  usually  im- 
proved by  the  addition  of  a  small  quan- 
tity of  baking-powder.  Lemon  juice 
and  soda  produce  a  cake  of  fine,  close 
texture,  but  these  are  not  adapted  for 
lightening  plain  cakes. 

Lining  the  Pans. 

A  light-weight  wrapping-paper  is  best 
adapted  to  this  purpose.  To  line  a 
rectangular  pan,  invert,  spread  paper 
upon  the  bottom,  having  one  side  even 
with  one  of  the  longer  edges  of  the 
bottom,  crease  the  paper  upon  the 
opposite  edge  of  the  bottom,  fold  in 
the  crease,  and,  with  a  sharp  knife,  cut 
at  the  fold.  Put  in  the  pan,  press 
down  smoothly,  letting  the   two   ends 


I16 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKJXG-SCHOOL  MAUAZIXE. 


hang  over  the  ends  of  the  pan.  Have 
ready  a  dish  of  clarified  butter  (melt 
the  butter,  and  let  stand  a  few  mo- 
ments to  **  settle/'  then  skim  off  the 
top,  lea\*ing  the  salt  and  sediment  in 
the  bottomX  and  with  a  butter  brush 
spread  the  unpapered  sides  of  the  tin 
and  the  paper  with  'butter.  Patented 
tins,  from  which  cake  can  be  easily 
removed,  do  not  need  lining.  Tins 
may  also  be  buttered  thoroughly,  and, 
just  before  the  cake  is  placed  in  them, 
sprinkled  with  tiour.  After  sprinkling 
with  flour  invert  and  give  the  tin  a 
sharp  rap  to  remove  superfluous  flour. 
Filling  the  Pans. 

inai  me  cake,  when  baked,  may  fill 
the  pan,  have  the  uncooked  mixture 
fill  two-thirds  of  the  space.  Always 
draw  the  mixture  away  from  the  centre 
towards  the  corners  or  edges,  and. 
when  baked,  other  conditions  being 
favorable,  the  top  will  be  level. 
Mixivg  Sponge  Cake. 

As  the  lightness  of  sponge  cake  de- 
pends entirely  upon  the  air  incorpo- 
rated into  the  eggs,  of  which  it  is 
largely  composed,  and  the  expansion 
of  this  air  in  baking,  great  care  must 
be  taken,  first,  to  secure  the  incorpora- 
tion of  air  in  the  mixture,  and  then  to 
regulate  the  baking  so  as  to  retain  the 
same;  i.e.,  never  stir  a  sponge-cake 
mixture ;  let  the  heat  be  such  that  tlie 
enclosed  air  can  be  gradually  heated. 
and  the  cell  walls  fixed  when  the  air 
becomes  fully  expanded.  Beat  the 
yolks  with  an  egg-beater  until  very 
light  and  thick ;  add  the  sugar  gradu- 
ally, beating  continuously,  then  add 
the  flavoring.  Beat  the  whites  until 
stiff  and  dry;  cut  and  fold  part  of  the 
whites  into  the  yolks  and  sugar,  then 
cut  and  fold  in  part  of  thfe  flour ;  now, 
in   same  order,  remainincr  whites  and 


flour.  If  preferred,  add  the  whites, 
then  the  flour  entire.  Bake  in  an  un- 
buttered  pan.  made  for  the  purpose, 
and  let  the  cake  stand  in  the  inverted 
pan  to  cool.  Thus  suspended,  as  it 
were,  from  the  floor  of  the  pan,  the 
cake  will  be  much  lighter  than  when 
it  is  left  to  hold  up  its  own  weight  while 
cooling. 

Mixing  Butter  Cakes. 

Cream  the  butter,  using  an  earthen 
bowl  and  a  wooden  spoon,  to  avoid 
discoloring  the  ingredients:  add  the 
sugar  gradually,  beating  constantly; 
add  yolks  of  eggs,  beaten  until  thick 
and  light-colored.  If  more  sugar  is 
used  than  can  easily  be  creamed  with 
the  butter,  add  it  to  the  yolks,  and, 
with  them,  to  the  rest  of  the  sugar 
and  butter  ;  then  add  the  liquid,  fol- 
lowed by  the  flour  and  leavening  ingre- 
dients sifted  together,  or  add  the  liquid 
and  flour  alternately.  Beat  the  mix- 
ture thoroughly  to  secure  a  fine  grain, 
then  beat  in,  lightly,  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  dry. 

Baking. 

Cakes  are  baked  in  from  fifteen 
minutes  to  three  or  four  hours.  The 
heat  of  the  oven  should  be  moderate 
at  first,  that  the  mixture,  being  evenly 
heated,  miy  rise  throughout.  If  the 
oven  be  too  hot  at  first,  the  cake  w^ill 
crust  or  brown  over  before  it  becomes 
sufficiently  light ;  then  the  rising  mix- 
ture will  break  through  the  weakest 
place  (usu.illy  the  centre),  and  run 
over  the  surface.  Mrs.  Lincoln  gives 
the  following  most  excellent  directions 
for  baking  cake  :  "  Divide  the  time  re- 
quired into  quarters.  During  the  first 
quarter  the  heating  is  not  manifested 
in  appearance  except  by  the  rising; 
during    the    second    the    cake    should 

(Concluded  ■'-  '  •    ■  rsg.) 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SC HOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


119 


SELECTED  VERSE. 


Llt^E'S    SCARS. 

They  say  the  world  is  round,  and  yet 

I  often  think  it  square, 
So  many  little  hurts  we  get 

From  corners  here  and  there. 
But  one  great  truth  in  life  I've  found. 

While  journeying  to  the  west,  — 
The  only  folks  who  really  wound 

Are  those  we  love  the  best. 

The  man  you  thoroughly  despise 

Can  rouse  your  wrath,  'tis  true ; 
Annoyance  in  your  heart  will  rise 

At  things  mere  strangers  do  ; 
But  those  are  only  passing  ills, 

This  rule  all  lives  will  prove : 
The  rankling  wound  which  aches  and 
thrills 

Is  dealt  by  hands  we  love. 

The  choicest  garb,  the  sweetest  grace, 

Are  oft  to  strangers  shown  ; 
The  careless  mien,  the  frowning  face, 

Are  given  to  our  own. 
We  flatter  those  we  scarcely  know; 

We  please  the  fleeting  guest ; 
And  deal  full  many  a  thoughtless  blow 

To  those  who  love  us  best. 

Love  does  not  grow  on  every  tree, 

Nor  true  hearts  yearly  bloom. 
Alas,  for  those  who  only  see 

This  cut  across  a  tomb  ! 
But,  soon  or  late,  the  fact  grows  plain 

To  all  through  sorrow's  test : 
The  only  folks  who  give  us  pain 

Are  those  we  love  ihe  best. 

—  Ella  Wheeler  Wilcox. 


EVENING    SONG    OF    THE    BRETON 
FISHERMAN. 

A  SINGING  breeze  in  the  yellow  sail, 
Crisp  white  foam  on  the  summer  sea; 

Sunset  shadows  and  moonlight  pale 
On  yonder  haven,  where  I  would  be. 

The  toils  of  the  day  are  over  and  past, 

The  fisherman  comes  to  his  rest  at  last ! 

The  bells  are  ringing  the  vesper  chime 
In  buried  cities  benea:h  the  sea; 


And  the  calm  of  the  holy  eventime 

Has  wrought  its  peace  on  the  world  and 
me. 
Ave  Maria  !     In  mercy  keep 
The  resting  land  and  the  restless  deep. 

The  lighthouse  flashes  the  beacon  high, 

A  golden  path  on  the  dark'ning  sea ; 
A  star  shines  out  in  the  dusky  sky, 

And  faint  lights  glimmer  along  the  quay. 
And  I  know  what  the  Star  of  Home  is 

worth 
When  the  heart  of  heaven  beats  close  to 

earth. 

—  Chambers' s  Journal. 


THANKSGIVING    DAY. 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood. 
To  grandfather's  house  we  go  ; 

The  horse  knows  the  way 

To  carry  the  sleigh 
Through  the  white  and  drifted  snow. 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood, — 
Oh,  how  the  wind  does  blow  I 
It  stings  the  toes. 
And  bites  the  nose, 
As  over  the  ground  we  go. 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood. 
To  have  a  first-rate  play ; 

Hear  the  bells  ring: 

"  Ting-a-ling-ding  !  " 
Hurrah  for  Thanksgiving  Day! 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood, 
Trot  fast,  my  dapple-gray  ! 

Spring  over  the  ground 

Like  a  hunting-hound  ! 
For  this  is  Thanksgiving  Day  1 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood. 
And  straight  through  the  barnyard  gate 

We  seem  to  go, 

Extremely  slow, — 
It  is  so  hard  to  wait. 

Over  the  river  and  through  the  wood, — 
Now  grandmother's  cap  I  spy  ! 
Hurrah  for  the  fun  I 
Is  the  pudding  done  ? 
Hurrah  for  the  pumpkin  pie  1 

—  Lvdia  Maria  Child. 


I20 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKJXG-SCIIOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


XTbe   JSoston  Coolung^Scbool 
Corporation, 

Established  1879.  Incorporated  1882. 

School  :  372  Boylston  Strket. 


BOARD  OF  MANAG£)RS,  1900. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWAI^Iv         -        -        -     President. 
Mrs.  STEPHEN  D.    BENNETT,   Vice-President. 


JEiXMCUTIVM  COMMITTJSM. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWAIvIv, 

Miss  ElvIvEN  M.  CHANDLER, 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL, 
Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY, 

Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS, 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING, 
Mrs.  WINSLOW  WARREN, 
Miss  MINNA   TRAIN, 

Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS. 
Mrs.  G.  E.  NILES,  Treasurer. 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary. 
Principal,  Miss  FANNIE  MERRITT  FARMER. 
Miss  MARIETTA  McPHERSON. 


Assistants, 


Miss  MARIA  W.  HOWARD. 


Ube   Boston   Coolktng^Scbool 
/IDagastne, 

Of  Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics. 

PUBLISHED   BIMONTHLY. 

OFFICIAL     JOURNAL     OF     THE     BOSTON 
COOKING-SCHOOL   CORPORATION. 

Publication  Oflfice : 
372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

JANBT  MCKENZIE  HILL     -        -        -        Editor. 
BENJ.  M.  HILL,        -        -  General  Manager. 

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A  NNUALLY  shore  and  mountain, 
^~^  woods  and  camp,  are  attracting 
larger  and  larger  numbers  of  pleasure- 
seekers.  The  business  world,  yielding 
to  the  vacation  custom,  is  constrained 
to  limit  its  period  of  greatest  activity 
to  about  ten  months  of  the  year.  Buc 
in  October  the  season  of  vacation  has 
ended,  schools  have  opened,  and  the 
more  serious  work  of  the  year  has  be- 
gun. Now  matters  assume  a  more 
lively  aspect ;  a  spirit  of  earnest,  bus- 
tling enterprise  pervades  every  thor- 
oughfare. The  seasons  are  short,  the 
year's  work  must  be  done,  and  busi- 
ness affairs  become  again  the  subject 
of  absorbing  interest. 

Now,  we  are  reminded  by  this  that 
the  leading  charge  against  woman, 
in  her  capacity  as  manager  of  the 
household,  is  her  lack,  or  perhaps  neg- 
lect, of  business  methods.  Whether 
this  charge  be  merited  or  not  need  not 
concern  us  here;  but  why  should  not 
the  same  earnestness  be  manifested 
in  conducting  the  affairs  of  the  house- 
hold as  is  noted  in  the  concerns  of 
the  office  or  counting-house  ?  Is  less 
method  or  vigilance  demanded  in  the 
one  case  than  in  the  other ;  or  is  not 
enthusiastic  effort  essential  to  success 


THE  BOS  TO  X  COOKIXG-SC IIOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


121 


in  every  calling  ?  Repeatedly  this  fact 
has  been  impressed  upon  our  mind, 
that  a  successful  business  life  is  almost 
invariably  the  due  reward  of  diligent 
application,  long  experience,  and  tire- 
less energy.  In  its  pursuit  nothing 
has  been  neglected  that  could  lead  to 
the  desired  goal.  To  lasting  achieve- 
ment no  other  way  has  been  provided. 
And  there  are  indications  to-day  that 
point  to  the  speedy  application  of 
business  methods  in  the  management 
of  the  home.  Certainly  the  art  of 
cooking  is  taught  more  extensively  to- 
day than  it  has  ever  been  before. 
Nearly  every  woman's  club  has  its  de- 
partment of  domestic  science.  House- 
hold economic  associations  are  numer- 
ous, while  experienced  teachers  are 
giving  demonstrations  and  lectures  on 
household  topics  in  all  parts  of  the 
land.  Evidently  the  housekeeper  of 
the  future  must  be  trained  for  her  call- 
ing, and,  with  her  other  attainments, 
she  must  fit  herself  to  practise  the 
ordinary  ways  of  business;  that  is,  she 
must  learn  how  to  introduce  system, 
order,  and  a  balancing  of  accounts  into 
the  every-day  transactions  of  the  house- 
hold.   

"  The  old  order  changeth,  yielding  place   to 

new, 
And  God  fulfils  Himself  in  many  ways, 
Lest  one  good  custom  should  corrupt    the 

world." 

"TRANSITION,  change,  is  the  order 
'  of  the  age.  We  marvel  at  the 
things  that  are  passing  away.  Much 
of  the  custom,  belief,  and  ways  of  liv- 
ing in  the  past  has  become  to-day 
already /rtiyj-^.  Certainly,  in  these  days 
of  isuis  and  ists,  conservatives,  like  the 
good  old  lady  who  expressed  the  wish 
to  live  and  die  in  the  faith  of  her 
grandmother,  are  having  a  hard  time 
of  it. 


In  .ways  of  locomotion,  for  instance, 
the  bicycle  and  "mobile"  are  merely 
indicative  of  the  progressive  movement 
that  is  everywhere  noted ;  for  changes, 
no  less  marked,  and  progress,  no  less 
rapid,  have  taken  place  in  other  lines 
of  thought  and  activity.  The  "  open 
door "  and  "  expansion,"  words  for- 
merly limited  to  ordinary  uses,  have 
become  the  most  prominent  and  oft- 
repeated  words  in  the  language.  They 
are  fraught  with  the  spirit  that  ani- 
mates the  present  civilization,  and 
marks  an  epoch  in  history.  For  race 
or  clan,  the  exclusive  era  is  regarded  no 
longer  tolerable.  Narrow  and  selfish, 
indeed,  was  the  policy  it  exemplified. 
Slowly  and  surely  the  race  is  coming 
to  believe  in  the  policy  of  the  open 
door,  and  is  seeking  for  light,  more 
light,  on  every  subject  of  human  inter- 
est. As  individuals,  we  cannot  evade 
the  ever-present  crisis.  As  our  most 
thoughtful  poet  wrote  :  — 

"  Once  to   every  man   and   nation   comes   the 

moment  to  decide, 
In  the  strife  of  Truth  with  Falsehood,  for  the 

good  or  evil  side." 

Time  was  when  our  educational  sys- 
tem was  general  rather  than  specific 
in  character.  Now  a  special  course 
of  study  is  mapped  out  for  every  callmg 
in  life,  even  for  the  several  branches 
of  each  respective  calling.  Whereas, 
in  the  past,  woman's  training  was  any- 
thing than  practical,  to-day  the  adap- 
tation of  courses  of  study  to  her  imme- 
diate needs  in  actual  life  is  made  a 
subject  of  most  earnest  and  persistent 
discussion.  The  introduction  of  do- 
mestic science  in  school  and  college, 
the  establishment,  here  and  there,  of 
well-equipped  schools  of  housekeeping, 
affording  young  women  thorough  and 
systematic  training  in  all  departments 


122 


THE  BOSTOX  C 00 KI XG-SC HOO L  MAGAZIXE. 


of  household  economy,  not  only  indi- 
cate a  vast  change  from  past  ways  of 
doing,  but  are  significant  of  a  grand 
reform. 

There  is  literally  place  no  longer  for 
the  unskilled  hand.  The  art  of  home- 
making  requires  special  preparation, 
as  does  the  practice  of  any  other  call- 
ing or  profession. 


"  r^  OOD    digestion,"    wrote   George 


^ 


Augustus   Sala,  ''means  happi- 


ness and  virtue.  One -third  of  the 
crime  in  this  world  springs  from  con- 
genital causes;  the  sins  of  the  fathers 
are  literally  visited  on  the  children. 
Another  third  is  due  to  the  direct,  al- 
though inscrutable,  instrumentality  of 
the  devil :  for  the  rest  indigestion  is 
mainly  responsible." 

In  all  ages,  and  in  all  climes,  for  in- 
digestion, ill-cooking  and  lack  of  fresh 
air  are  largely  responsible.  Are  not 
people  slow  in  learning  to  realize  the 
vital  importance,  first,  of  the  hygienic 
preservation  of  food  stuffs;  and,  second, 
of  adopting  the  best  approved  methods 
in  preparing  the  same  for  consumption  ? 
The  average  homemaker,  it  seems,  is 
more  dense  on  these  subjects  than 
on  many  another.  The  old  doctrine, 
that  most  anything  is  good  enough 
to  eat,  was  bad  philosophy ;  anyhow, 
it  is  antiquated  now.  As  often  made, 
the  statement  is  simply  an  excuse  for 
gross  ignorance  or  culpable  indolence. 

*'  Take  no  thought  for  your  life,  what 
ye  shall  eat,  and  what  ye  shall  drink," 
has  often  been  misinterpreted  and 
wrongly  applied;  for  wide  is  the  differ- 
ence between  intelligent  thinking  and- 
fretful  anxiety.  To  very  lack  of  thought 
is  due  the  baneful  state  of  domestic 
science  to  -  day,  the  chief  source  of 
evil  in  city  life  or  country  living. '    The 


earnest,  thoughtful  provider  of  edibles 
must  be  ever  progressive.  She  will  be 
also  ever  much  in  demand. 

Of  the  throngs  of  health-seekers  just 
returning  from  seaside  and  mountain 
resorts,  many  will  recall  half-baked 
bread,  sodden  pie-crust,  and  bitter  cof- 
fee as  the  sole  drawback  to  a  season 
of  healthful  recreation  and  pleasure. 

Madame  Adelina  Patti,  who  pre- 
serves her  remarkable  beauty  long  past 
the  half- century  mark,  ascribes  her 
health,  her  splendid  constitution  and 
figure,  to  a  sensible  and  simple  observ- 
ance of  natural  laws.  She  is  reported 
as  saying:  ''  No  coffee,  tea,  chocolate, 
or  ice  water  for  me.  I  tr^e  half  the 
ills  of  American  women  to  such 
things." 

An  admirer  says  :  — 

Madame  Patti  is  a  fervent  advocate  of 
fresh  air.  She  revels  in  it.  On  fair  days  she 
puts  on  a  short  skirt  and  a  pair  of  thick  and 
comfortable  walking-shoes,  and  tramps  miles 
into  the  hills  and  vales  of  Wales.  "  What  ails 
you  girls  ?  "  she  used  to  say  to  us.  "  Where  is 
your  ambition,  your  life .?  Don't  sit  about 
doing  nothing;  get  into  the  air  ^nd  walk. 
Then,  at  my  age,  you  will  be  as  rosy  and 
healthy  as  I  am,  and  not  broken  down  and 
suffering  with  all  sorts  of  complaints." 

Better  than  drugs  and  medicines  are 
food  and  fresh  air  to  remedy  the  ills 
of  life,  to  sustain  and  prolong  vital 
energies.  The  entire  matter  of  our 
well-being  and  happiness  cannot  be 
separated  from  the  question  of  food. 


''  Cookery  is  eminently  an  experi- 
mental and  practical  art.  Each  day, 
while  it  adds  to  our  experience,  in- 
creases our  knowledge." 


"  The  characteristic  of  ancient  cook- 
ery was  profusion;  the  characteristic 
of  modern  cookery  is  delicacy  and  re- 
finement." 


After=Breakfast  Chat. 

By  Janet  M.   Hill. 


Note. —  Instead  of  our  usual  •'  After-Breakfast  Chat,"  we  have  prepared  for  this  issue  of 
the  Magazine  an  article  that  will  be  found  on  another  page.  On  this  page  we  present  a  few 
sentiments  culled  from  various  sources,  and  suitable,  we  trust,  for  daily  thought  and  inspira- 
tion.—/. J/.  H. 

The  same  stale  viands,  served  up  o'er  and  o'er, 
The  stomach  nauseate. —  Ovid. 

•'  Children  have  more  need  of  models  than  of  critics.'' 

All  difficulties  are  but  easy  when  they  are  known. —  Shakespeare. 

So  live  with  your  inferior  as  you  wish  a  superior  to  live  with  you.^—  Seneca. 

A  pilot  and  a  fair  wind  are  necessary  to  a  happy  voyage ;  reason  and  art  to 
a  happy  life. — Epictetus. 

"  When  we  are  alone  we  have  our  thoughts  to  watch ;  in  family,  our  tempers ; 
and  in  company,  our  tongues." 

Manners  are  often  too  much  neglected ;  life  is  too  short  to  get  over  a  bad 
manner ;  besides,  manners  are  the  shadows  of  virtue. —  Sydney  Smith. 

Alack,  it  is  not  when  we  sleep  soft,  and  wake  merrily,  that  we  think  on 
other  people's  sufferings,  but  when  the  hour  of  trouble  comes  —  Sir  Walter 
Scott. 

They  blame  him  who  sits  silent;  they  blame  him  who  speaks  much;  they 
also  blame  him  who  says  little.  There  is  no  one  on  earth  who  is  not  blamed. — 
M.  Aiirelius. 

As  you  would  not  wish  to  sail  in  a  large  and  elegant  and  gilded  ship,  and 
sink;  so  neither  is  it  desirable  to  inhabit  a  grand  and  sumptuous  house,  and 
be  in  a  tumult. —  Epictetus. 

How  strange  is  the  thing  called  pleasure,  and  how  curiously  related  to  its 
opposite,  pain  ;  for  they  never  come  to  a  man  together,  and  yet  he  who  pursues 
either  of  them  is  generally  compelled  to  take  the  other! — Socrates. 

••  When  we  are  invited  to  an  entertainment  we  take  what  we  find ;  and  if  any 
one  should  bid  the  master  of  the  house  set  fish  or  tarts  before  him,  he  would 
be  thought  absurd.  Yet  in  the  world  we  ask  the  gods  for  what  they  do  not 
give  us ;  and  that,  though  there  are  so  many  things  which  they  have  given  us." 

For  if  we  would  keep  ourselves  up  to  the  level  of  our  best  possibilities, 
impulse,  intention,  and  effort  require  to  be  renewed  day  by  day  by  conscious 
and  repeated  endeavor,  as  surely  as  the  wear  and  tear  of  our  bodies  require 
to  be  repaired  by  fresh  daily  material,  as  surely  as  our  bodily  muscles  require 
exercise  if  they  are  not  to  stiffen. —  Elot-cnce  Bell. 


124 


THE  BOSTON  COO K I XG-SCIIOO L  .}fAi;AZ/\E. 


CAKE  AND  SEASONABLE  RECIPES. 

( I?i  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  ujikss  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured 
after  sifting  once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a 
spoon  and  a  level  cupful  is  meant.  A  tablespoojiful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any 
designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful  of  such  material.) 


,UP5  AND  SPOONS  SHOWING  METHOD  OF  MEASURING. 


Risotto. 

Put  half  a  cup  of  rice  over  the  fire 
in  nearly  a  quart  of  cold  water ;  let 
heat  quickly,  and  boil  eight  or  ten 
minutes;  then  drain  through  a  sieve, 
rinse  with  plenty  of  cold  water,  and 
drain  again.  Melt  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  rice, 
and  saute'  gently  two  or  three  min- 
utes without  browning ;  then  add  one 
cup  of  tomato  pulp,  a  few  grains  of 
cayenne,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ; 
let  simmer  until  the  rice  is  tender. 
Turn  into  a  hot  dish  and  sprinkle  with 
half  a  cup  of  grated  cheese.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Potato  Stuffing  for  Fowl. 

Mix  two  cups  of  mashed  potato,  one 
cup  of  soft  bread  crumbs,  and  from  one- 
third  to  one-half  a  cup  of  melted  but- 
ter ;  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pep- 
per ;  add  sweet  herbs  or  poultry  sea- 
soning, as  desired,  and  one  beaten  egg. 


Chestnut  Stuffijig  for  Fowl. 

Cut  a  slit  in  the  shell  of  each  chest- 
nut in  a  quart,  set  in  frying-pan,  with 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter,  into  the 
oven,  and  shake  occasionally,  to  coat 
wdth  the  butter ;  in  five  or  six  minutes 
remove,  and,  with  a  small,  sharp  knife, 
peel  off  the  shell  and  inner  skin  to- 
gether. Cook  the  blanched  chestnuts 
in  boiling  stock  or  water  until  tender; 
then  press  through  a  ricer,  season  with 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  gener- 
ous teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  or 
two  of  pepper.  Sweet  herbs,  onion 
juice,  lemon  juice,  or  parsley  may  be 
added,  as  desired.  A  pint  of  raw 
chicken  or  veal,  fine-chopped,  or  a  pint 
of  soft  bread  crumbs,  may  be  used,  by 
adding  more  seasoning. 

Cranberry-ajid-Raisi7i  Sauce.    , 

Simmer  one  pint  of  raisins  several 
hours,  or  until  very  tender  (when  cooked 
there  should  be  one  cup  of  liquid) ;  add 


TBE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


125 


one  quart  of  cranberries,  and  cook  five 
minutes,  or  until  the  skins  burst ;  then 
pass  through  a  sieve,  and  return  the 
pulp  to  the  fire  with  one  pint  of  sugar 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  let  boil  up 
once  ;   remove,  and  cool  before  using. 

Fillets  of  Turkey  with  Forcemeat^ 
Breaded. 

Cut  the  breast  of  a  cold  cooked  tur- 
key into  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  trim  into  pieces  of  a  uni- 
form shape.  Cook  half  a  cup  of  soft 
bread  crumbs  to  a  paste  in  half  a  cup  of 
milk,  stirring  frequently;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  three-fourths  a  cup 
of  the  breast  of  a  raw  chicken,  or  raw 
veal,  pounded  smooth,  the  white  of  a 
large  egg,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and 
a  generous  fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
mix,  and  with  a  wooden  pestle  press 
through  a  pure'e  sieve.  Spread  the 
mixture  smoothly  upon  one  side  of  the 
fillets,  then  egg-and  bread-crumb,  and 
fry  in  deep  fat.     Serve  one  overlapping 


another,  crown  fashion,  around  a  bunch 
of  parsley  or  celery  tips,  or  around  a 
mound  of  canned  peas  or  macedoine 
of  vegetables. 

Rice-and-  Cheese  Croquettes. 

Steam  one  cup  of  rice  in  milk,  salted 
water,  or  well-seasoned  stock,  until  the 
rice  is  tender  and  dry  (from  three  to 
five  cups  of  liquid  will  be  needed)  ; 
add  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan 
or  other  cheese ;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  add  about  a  cup  of  white 
sauce  (that  made  with  chicken  liquor 
preferred);  add  the  sauce  carefully; 
the  quantity  will  depend  upon  the  dry- 
ness of  the  rice ;  shape  at  once  into 
croquettes,  or,  if  rather  moist,  cool 
slightly,  then  egg-and-bread-crumb,  and 
fry  in  deep  fat.  Serve  with  cream  or 
tomato  sauce. 

Brioche. 

Soften  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  one -fourth  a  cup  of  warm  water, 
and   stir  in   flour   to    make   a    dough ; 


M-l 

f» 

1 

'     1 

1      •■ 

iP* ia^^ .          

>  * 

^%i 

m 

UTENSILS   FOR  CAKE-MAKING. 


126 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


CAKE  PANS. 


knead  thoroughly,  then  drop  into  a 
saucepan  containing  a  little  warm  water 
and  let  stand  in  a  temperature  of  70° 
Fahr.,  until  doubled  in  size.  Put  the 
rest  of  a  pound  (four  cups  equal  a 
pound)  of  flour  in  a  mixing-bowl,  and 
add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  ten  ounces 
(one  cup  and  a  fourth)  of  softened  but- 
ter, and  four  eggs.  Mix  to  a  paste, 
beat  thoroughly  with  the  hand,  then 
add  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  until  seven,  in 
all,  have  been  used;  beat  until  smooth 
and  fine-grained.  When  the  ball  of 
sponge  is  light,  remove  from  the  water 
with  a  skimmer,  and  place  in  the  centre 
of  the  ^g'g  mixture ;  fold  the  ^gg  mix- 
ture over  the  sponge,  then  beat  until 
the  two  are  thoroughly  blended;  set 
aside  in  a  te'mperature  of  about  70° 
Fahr.,  until  doubled  in  bulk ;  turn  on 
to  a  floured  board,  pat  out,  and  fold 
over  several  times,  or,  if  very  soft,  fold 
in  the  mixing-bowl ;  let  rise  a  second 
time,  and  repeat  the  process,  then  set 
aside  on  the  ice  to  become  thoroughly 
chilled.  It  may  stand  over  night  to 
advantage.  It  is  then  ready  to  use  as 
desired. 


Co  fee  Rolls. 

Roll  chilled  brioche  into  a  sheet 
about  one-fourth  an  inch  thick  (a  mar- 
ble slab  or  a  magic  cover  is  an  ad- 
vantage), brush  over  very  lightly  with 
softened  butter,  then  fold  from  the 
sides  toward  the  centre,  so  as  to  make 
three  layers.  Cut  strips  three-fourths 
an  inch  wide ;  take  each  separately,  and 
twist  from  the  ends  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, and  with  each  form  a  circle  on  the 
baking-sheet,  but,  instead  of  having  the 
ends  meet,  bring  them  side  by  side  up 
to  the  centre  of  the  curve.  Arrange 
the  rolls  close  together  in  the  baking- 
pan,  and  btush  over  with  yolk  of  ^gg 
beaten  and  diluted  with  milk;  let  rise, 
and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven ;  let  cool,  then  brush 
over  with  confectioners'  sugar  mois- 
tened with  boiling  water  to  spread. 
Brioche  Buns. 

Shape  the  chilled  brioche  into  balls 
the  size  of  an  egg;  put  them  close 
together  in  a  buttered  pan,  and  press 
into  the  top  of  each  a  slice  of  citron 
or  a  seeded  raisin.  When  risen  to 
more  than  double  in  bulk,  brush  over 
with  sugar  dissolved  in  a  little  milk, 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


127 


and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Brush  over  a  second 
time  with  the  sugar  and  milk,  and 
sprinkle  with  loaf  sugar  pounded  into 
small  bits ;  let  stand  in  the  oven  until 
well  glazed. 

Brioche  with  Head. 
Divide  the  chilled  brioche  into  two 
pieces,  one  a  fourth  as  large  as  the 
other.  Shape  the  larger  piece  into  a 
round,  and,  with  the  rolling-pin,  flatten 
evenly  to  fit  the  baking-pan  (a  round 
sponge-cake  pan).  Make  an  open  place 
in  the  centre,  and  gash  the  dough  in  four 
or  five  places  on  the  inner  edge,  after 
placing  it  in  the  buttered  pan  ;  form 
the  small  piece  into  a  ball,  then,  with 
the  floured  hand,  roll  it  on  the  board. 


light  bake  about  fifty  minutes  in  a  slow 
oven,  then  brush  over  with  sugar  dis- 
solved in  a  little  milk.  Serve  hot  or 
cold. 

Brioches  St.  Mark. 
Fill  twelve  well-buttered  individual 
timbale  moulds  two -thirds  full  with 
brioche  paste.  When  risen  nearly  to 
fill  the  moulds,  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Remove  from  the  moulds,  and, 
when  cold,  trim  uniformly  to  size  of 
the  moulds,  and  remove  the  centre  from 
each,  leaving  a  thin  shell.  Pour  over 
the  inside  a  highly  flavored  syrup ; 
drain,  and  fill  with  whipped  cream  or 
a  custard  filling ;  brush  over  the  out- 
side with  apricot  marmalade,  and  strew 
with  pistachios  and  almonds  blanched 


BRIOCHE  RING  WITH   HEAD. 


giving  it  the  shape  of  a  pear ;  set  the 
pointed  end  in  the  centre  of  the  pan, 
and  brush  over  the  whole  with  yolk  of 
egg  beaten  with   a   little  milk;    when 


and  chopped  fine.  (3rnament  the  top 
of  each  timbale  with  a  rosette  formed 
of  a  split  cherry  surrounded  by  halves 
of  pistachios.     Dress  these  on  a  plate 


THE  m')STOX  C 00 K I XC-SCIIOO L  MACfAZIXE. 


128 

in  a  circle,  filling  the  centre  of  the 
circle  with  halved  peaches  cooked  in 
syrup.  Serve  with  or  without  whipped 
cream  or  a  custard  sauce. 


cut  in  small  pieces,  seeded  raisins  cut 
in  pieces,  and  washed  currants.  But- 
ter a  baba  mould  and  half  fill  with  the 
mixture ;  let  rise  nearly  to  the  top  of 


BRIOCHES  ST.  MARK. 


Baba  7vith  Fruit. 
Soften  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  half  a  cup  of  boiled  and  cooled 
water,  or  scalded  and  cooled  milk ;  beat 
in  about  a  cup  of  tiour,  and  set  aside 
to  rise  in  a  temperature  of  about  70" 
Eahr.  Put  the  rest  of  a  pound  of  fiour 
(four  cups  to  a  pound)  into  a  mixing- 
bowl,  and  add  ten  ounces  (one  cup 
and  a  fourth)  of  softened  butter,  a 
tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  three 
eggs;  work  the  whole  together  until 
smooth,  then  add  five  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  and  continue  beating  wdth  the 
hand  until  the  paste  is  very  smooth. 
When  the  sponge  has  risen  to  twice  its 
original  size,  add  it  to  the  ^gg  mixture, 
beating  again  until  smooth ;  then  add 
one  cup  of   fruit,   citron,  and  cherries 


the  mould,  then  bake  in  an  oven  at 
a  lower  temperature  than  for  bread. 
Serve  hot  on  a  dish  covered  with  a 
napkin.     Pass  at  the  same  time 

APRICOT    SAUCE. 

Boil  half  a  cup  of  apricot  jam,  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  and  one  cup  of 
syrup,  five  minutes  ;  strain  and  serve. 
Half  a  cup  of  Jamaica  rum,  or  other 
spirits,  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
lemon  juice. 

Bath  Buns. 

Soften  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
in  half  a  cup  of  lukew^arm  milk  or 
w^ater,  and  add  fiour  to  make  a  sponge ; 
when  light  add  half  a  cup  of  sugar, 
three  fourths  a  cup  of  softened  butter, 
one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  grat- 
ing of  lemon  rind,  four  eggs,  and  the 
rest   of   a    pound   of   fiour ;    mix   thor- 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


129 


oughly,  then  knead  half  an  hour,  add- 
ing more  flour,  if  required,  but  keeping 
the  dough  quite  soft.  When  risen 
double  in  bulk,  shape  into  balls  and 
finish  as  brioche  buns. 

Every-day  Bims. 

Make  as  above,  using  a  full  cup  of 
milk,  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter,  three 
eggs,  and  half  or  two-thirds  a  cup  of 
sugar. 

Tha7iksgivi?ig  Cake. 

Mix  together,  and  beat  with  the 
hand  until  perfectly  smooth,  two  cups 
of  bread  dough  (ready  for  shaping  into 
loaves),  half  a  cup  of  butter,  two  cups 
of  sugar,   two   eggs,   one-fourth  a  tea- 


not  quite  double  in  bulk),  bake  in  an 
oven  at  a  temperature  a  little  lower 
than  for  bread.  When  cold  pour  a 
maple-sugar  frosting  over  the  cake,  and 
decorate  with  pecan  or  hickory  nuts 
and  ornamental  frosting.  This  cake  is 
particularly  good  made  of  entire-wheat 
bread  dough. 

Maple- Sugar  F7'0sting. 
Stir  a  cup  of  thin  cream  and  two 
cups  (one  pound)  of  grated  or  shaved 
maple  sugar  over  the  fire  until  dis- 
solved, then  cook  until  the  soft-ball 
stage  is  reached,  without  stirring.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  set  into  cold  water, 
and  beat  until  of  consistency  to  spread. 


THANKSGIVING  CAKE. 


spoonful  of  clove,  half  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  cinnamon,  mace,  and  nutmeg, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  cup  of 
seeded  raisins,  and  one-fourth  a  cup 
of  sliced  citron.  Turn  into  a  tube 
cake-pan,   and,  when   light  (it  should 


Boiled  Maple- Sugar  Frostittg. 
Boil  two  cups  of  maple  sugar,  pre- 
pared as  above,  with  half  a  cup  of  boil- 
ing water,  until  a  soft  ball  can  be 
formed  in  cold  water;  then  pour  in  a 
fine  stream  on  to  the  stiff-beaten  whites 


I30 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


of  two  eggs,  beating  constantly ;  return 
to  the  fire,  and  beat  carefully,  to  avoid 
burning,  two  or  three  minutes;  then 
remove,  and  beat  occasionally  until 
cold  and  of  consistency  to  spread. 

Sponge  or   Sai'oy   Cake  (Biscuit  de 
Savoie). 

One  pound  of  eggs  (ten  eggs),  one 
pound  of  sugar  (two  cups),  half  a 
pound  of  flour  (two  cups),  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  F'ollow  the 
directions  previously  given. 
Mocha   Cake. 

Bake  a  sponge-cake  mixture  in  two 
round  layer  cake  pans.  (Half  a  pound, 
each,  of  eggs  and  sugar,  and  the  usual 
proportion  of  other  ingredients,  will 
give  two  layers  and  a  dozen  lady-fin- 
gers.) Prepare  a  mocha  cream,  spread 
smoothly  between  the  layers  and  upon 
the  outside  of  the  cake.  Score  the 
cake  in  pieces  for  serving.  Pipe  with 
the  remainder  of  the  cream. 


Mocha   Cream. 

Wash  a  cup  of  butter,  then  beat  to 
a  cream  and  add  slowly  enough  thick 
syrup,  flavored  with  coffee,  to  sweeten 
the  mixture  to  taste.  To  make  the 
syrup,  cook  together  a  cup  of  sugar 
and  half  a  cup  of  clear,  strong  coffee 
until  a  thick  syrup  is  formed ;  cool  be- 
fore using.  A  cup  and  a  half  of  butter 
will  be  needed  for  a  large  cake,  with 
heavy  decoration. 

Sunshi7ie  Cake. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  until  light- 
colored  and  very  thick ;  beat  the  whites 
of  seven  eggs  until  foamy,  then  add 
one-third  a  teaspoonful  of  cream-of- 
tartar,  and  beat  until  dry.  Fold  one 
cup  of  sugar  into  the  whites,  then  add 
the  yolks,  cutting  and  folding  them 
in  thoroughly  ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
orange  extract,  and  at  the  last  fold  in 
two-thirds  a  cup  of  flour.  Bake  in  tube 
pan  from  thirty- five  to  fifty  minutes. 


MOCHA  CAKE. 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKTXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


131 


Lady-fingers  (Naples  Biscuit). 
Three  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  powdered 
sugar,  half  a   cup  of   flour,  grating   of 
lemon  or  orange  rind.     Use  a  generous 


fourths  an  inch  wide,  dust  with  fine 
granulated  sugar,  and,  when  baked, 
cover  the  tops  with  Italian  meringue 
(boiled    frosting),    and     sprinkle     with 


FINGER   BISCUIT  WITH    PISTACHIOS.     OTHELLOS.     MADELEINES. 


measure  of  sugar;  mix  according  to 
formula.  Press  the  mixture  through 
a  tube  on  to  a  baking-sheet  covered 
with  paper,  in  portions  an  inch  wide 
and  five  inches  long.  Dust  with  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  bake  from  ten  to 
fifteen  minutes,  without  browning. 
Remove  from  the  paper,  brush  over 
the  flat  surface  of  one  biscuit  with 
white  of  ^gg,  press  the  under  side  of  a 
second  biscuit  upon  the  first,  and  set 
aside. 

Africans,  or   Othellos. 

Press  the  biscuit  mixture  on  to  the 
paper  in  rounds  an  inch  or  more  in 
diameter.  \\'hen  baked,  spread  the  flat 
surface  of  half  the  biscuits  with  jam  or 
jelly,  and  cover  with  the  remaining 
biscuits.  Dip  in  chocolate  fondant  or 
frosting,  and  dry  on  oiled  paper. 
Finger  Biscuit  with  Pistachios. 

Press  the  biscuit  paste  on  to  the 
paper  in  oval-shaped  strips,  one  and 
three -fourths    inches    long    by    three- 


chopped  pistachios.     Ox  strew  the  bis- 
cuits before  baking  with  fine  chopped 
almonds    mixed   with    sugar,    and   the 
Italian  meringue  may  be  omitted. 
Pound  Cake. 

Heat  one  pound  and  a  half  of  butter 
to  a  cream  ;  add  gradually  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  sugar,  then  the  beaten 
yolks  of  ten  eggs;  add,  alternately, 
one  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  sifted 
with  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  a  scant  cup  of  milk,  and, 
lastly,  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  beaten 
dry.  When  putting  the  mixture  into 
the  pan,  add,  here  and  there,  a  slice  of 
citron. 

Pound  Cake  by  Measure. 

Prepare  as  above,  using  one  cup  of 
butter,  one  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar, 
two  cups  of  flour,  four  eggs,  half  a  cup 
of  milk,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder. 

Le?no7i    Queens. 

Cream   half   a   cup  of  butter;    add, 


132 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


gradually,  one  cup  of  sugar,  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  juice;  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
four  eggs.  Mix  one-fourth  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda  with  one  cup  and  a  fourth  of 
flour,  and  add  to  the  first  mixture, 
beating  thoroughly.  Add  the  whites 
of  four  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  small 
tins  about  twenty  minutes.  Spread 
the  tops  of  the  cakes,  when  cold,  with 
confectioners'  sugar  mixed  with  boiling 
water  and  lemon  juice. 

Madeleines. 
Bake  a  pound  or  a  Genoese  cake 
mixture  (sponge-cake  mixture,  though 
"not  the  proper  thing,"  is  sometimes 
used)  in  a  sheet  that,  when  baked, 
may  be  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness. 
When  cold  cut  in  small  rounds,  dia- 
monds, crescents,  or  squares,  brush  over 
the  cut  sides  with  white  of  egg  beaten 
slightly  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  set  aside  several 


used ;  baked  in  these,  the  glazing  with 
egg  and  sugar,  which  is  to  hold  the 
crumbs  m  place,  may  be  omitted. 
Meringues. 
Beat  half  a  pound  (one  cup)  of 
whites  of  fresh  eggs  with  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  slowly  at  first,  then 
faster  as  they  grow  stiff,  until  very  stiff ; 
then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine 
granulated  sugar,  and  whisk  in;  add 
the  same  quantity  of  sugar  twice  more, 
whisking  in  the  sugar  thoroughly  each 
time  before  more  is  added,  then  con- 
tinue beating  until  the  mixture  can  be 
cut  clean  wdth  a  knife.  Then  add  the 
rest  of  half  a  pound  (one  cup)  of 
sugar,  and  fold  in  to  the  mass  lightly 
and  smoothly.  Lightly  tack  a  sheet 
of  damp  paper  on  to  a  board  about 
one  inch  in  thickness;  with  a  spoon 
drop  the  mixture  on  to  the  paper,  giv- 
ing each  spoonful  an  oval  or  egg  shape. 
Dust  these  with  granulated  sugar,  set 
into  a  cool  oven,  and  let  dry  out  rather 


MUSHROOM   MERINGUES. 


hours,  or  over  night,  to  dry.  Dip  into 
tinted  fondant,  and  decorate  with  can- 
died fruit  (or  nuts)  and  ornamental 
frosting.      Madeleine  moulds   may  be 


than  bake.  At  the  last  increase  the 
heat,  and  let  them  take  on  a  delicate 
brown  color.  When  baked  they  can 
be  lifted  from  the  paper.     Baking  will 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


133 


require  from  three-fourths  of  an  hour 
to  a  full  hour.  When  baked,  remove 
the  tacks  and  invert  the  paper ;  care- 
fully take  off  the  meringues,  and  take 
out  the  uncooked  portion  in  the  centre; 
lay  them,  with  the  open  centre  up,  on 
another  board,  and  return  to  the  oven 
to  dry.  When  dry  and  cold  fill  the 
shells,  nicely  paired,  with  whipped 
cream  sweetened  and  flavored,  or  cream 
or  water  ice,  and  press  the  two  corre- 
sponding parts  together.  Serve  at 
once.  The  meringues  may  be  baked 
on  a  waxed  baking- sheet. 

Mushroom  Meringues. 

With  pastry  bag  and  plain  tube  shape 
the  meringue  mixture  into  rounds  the 
size  of  mushroom  caps,  and  in  upright 
pieces,  like  thick  mushroom  stems. 
Dust  the  caps  with  grated  chocolate 
or  powdered  cinnamon.  When  baked, 
and  taken  from  the  paper,  fit  the  caps, 
while  hot,  on  the  stems. 

Wine  Drop   Cookies. 

Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter ;  add  one 
cup  of  sugar,  three-fourths  a  cup  of 
currants,  half  a  cup  of  molasses,  one 
egg  well  beaten,  and,  alternately,  half 
a  cup  of  sweet  milk  and  three  cups  of 
flour  sifted  with  half  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  soda  and  cloves  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon.  Drop  from 
spoon  on  buttered  tin. 

Cranberry  Puffs. 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  sifted  flour, 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  rub 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  into  the 
flour;  beat  the  eggs  until  like  thick 
cream ;  add  one  cup  of  rich  milk  or  thin 
cream,  and  stir  into  the  flour  with  one 
pint  of  cranberries.  Fill  buttered  cups 
about  half  full  of  the  mixture,  and 
steam  one  hour  in  a  closely  covered 
steamer.     Serve  with  plenty  of  sauce. 


as   the   puffs  are  spongy,  and   will   ab- 
sorb a  large  quantity. 

CRANBERRY    PUDDING    SAUCE. 

Boil  two  cups  of  sugar  and  half  a 
cup  of  water  five  minutes ;  add  a  cup 
of  thin  cranberry  juice,  and  let  boil 
again.  If  a  thicker  sauce  be  desired, 
stir  in  a  half  or  a  whole  teaspoonful  of 
cornstarch,  stirred,  until  smooth,  in  a 
little  water.  Let  cook  ten  minutes ; 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  to  accen- 
tuate the  flavor  of  the  cranberries. 
Apple  Souffie. 

Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs  until 
foamy;  add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream-of-tartar,  and  beat  until  dry, 
then  cut  and  fold  in  half  a  cup  of 
sugar,  half  a  cup  of  apple  pulp,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  (Steam  three 
or  four  apples,  and  press  the  pulp 
through  a  sieve.  The  pulp  should  be 
rather  dry.)  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  dish,  and  bake,  standing  in  a 
pan  of  hot  water,  about  twenty- five  min- 
utes. Serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 
Apple  Souffle,  No.  2. 

Cook  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter ;  add 
half  a  cup  of  milk  gradually,  a  few 
grains  of  salt,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of 
three  eggs.  Then  fold  in  half  a  cup 
of  cooked  apples,  cut  into  cubes,  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  hot  apple  pulp,  and  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  dry.  Bake 
in  a  buttered  baking-dish,  standing  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water,  about  twenty- five 
minutes.  (Apple  pulp  may  be  used  in 
the  place  of  milk.)  Prepare  a  merin- 
gue of  the  w^hites  of  two  eggs  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Decorate 
the  top  of  the  souffle  with  the  meringue, 
using  a  pastry  bag  and  tube,  and  re- 
turn to  the  oven  for  about  six  minutes; 
then  serve  at  once.  Omit  the  meringue 
and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar,  if 
preferred. 


134 


THE  BOSTOX  COOh'IXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


Cranberry  Pie. 


THANKSGIVING     MENUS. 

"  The  waning  year  grows  brown  and  gray  and  dull, 
And  poets  sing  '  November,  bleak  and  sere '  ; 
But  from  the  bounteous  garnered  harvest  store, 
With  grateful  hearts  we  draw  Thanksgiving  cheer." 


Tomato  Soup  (Turkey  Giblets).  Croutons.  Olives. 

Roast  Turkey,  English  Style  (Garnish :    Fried  Oysters); 

Celery  Sauce.      Stewed  Gooseberries. 

Baltimore  Samp  in  Cream  Sauce  and  Parsley.     Mashed  Turnips. 

Candied  Sweet  Potatoes. 

ArPLE-AND-NuT  Salad.      Pumpkin  Pie. 

Cheese.  Fruit  and  Nuts.  Coffee. 


II. 

Clam  Broth,  Crackers.         Celery.         Pim-olas. 

Roast  Turkey,  Potato  Stuffing;  Giblet  Sauce;  Cranberry-and-Raisin  Sauce. 

Baked  Squash.     Onions  with  Cream. 

Chicken  Pie.  Celery-and-Afple  Salad. 

Cracker  Fruit  Pudding,  Hard  Sauce.      Pumpkin  Pie.      Apple  Pie  with  Cream. 

Edam  Cheese.         Fruit  and  Nuts.        Coffee. 

III. 

Consomme  with  Chicken  Quenelles.  Olives.  Celery. 

Boiled  Shoulder  of  Cod,  Oyster  Sauce. 

Roast  Turkey,  Chestnut  Stuffing  (Garnish:  Small  Sausage  and  Glazed  Chestnuts). 

Plum  and  Quince  Jellies.         Potatoes  Scalloped  with  Onions.    . 

Buttered  Flageolets.  Cauliflower  aii  Gratin  in  Cheese  Shell. 

Cranberry  Granite.  Wild  Duck.     Celery-and-Orange  Salad. 

Mock  Mince  Pie.         Pumpkin  Pie.  Bisque  Ice-Cream.         Fruit  and  Nuts. 

Cafe  Noir. 


THANKSGIVING   SPR.EAD.    (9  o'clock,  p.m.) 

EscALLOPED  Oysters  en  Coquille. 

Fillets  of  Turkey,  with  Chicken  Forcemeat,  Breaded.  Cranberry  Jelly. 

Celery-and-Pecan-Nut  S.\lad.         Pim-olas.         Salad  Rolls. 

Nesselrode  Pudding.  Vanilla  Ice-Cream.  Thanksgiving  Cake. 

Nuts.  Fruit.  Bonbons. 

Coffef. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


135 


SEASONABLE  MENUS  FOR  OCTOBER, 

"  Prove  all  things;  hold  fast  that  which  is  good." 


Cornmeal  Mush,  Winter  Sweets  Baked,  Cream. 

Codfish  Balls,  Tomato  Sauce. 

Eggs  in  the  Shell.       Coffee  Rolls. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Stewed  Oysters.      Celery.     Olives. 

Roast  Chicken,  Bread  Stuffing,  Clear  Gravy. 

Mashed  Potatoes.         Sweet  Potatoes. 

Buttered  Cauliflower. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Preserved  Quinces,  Cream.     Pecan  Sticks. 

Cafe  Noir. 

Bath  Buns,  Reheated.       Cocoa. 


BMEAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Baked  Potatoes.    Hashed  Beef  (Flank  from  Steak). 

Cornmeal  Breakfast  Cake. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Spinach  with  Poached  Eggs.     Toast. 
Gingerbread  Baked  in  Gem  Pans.     Cocoa. 

DINNER. 

Mock  Bisque  Soup. 

Halibut  Steaks  Baked  with  Oyster.s,  Holland- 

aise  Sauce. 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 

Stuffed  Tomato  Salad. 

Tapioca  Baked  with  Peaches,  Cream. 

Cafe  Noir. 


m 
o 
2 

> 


BREAKFAST. 

Ralston  Breakfast  Food,  Cream. 

Tomato  Omelet,  Broiled  Bacon. 

Baked  Potato  Cakes.     Broiled  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Entire-Wheat  Muffins. 

Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Cream  of  Cauliflower.      Rissotto. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Tomato  Soup.        Chicken  Croquettes. 

Buttered  Lima  Beans.     Escalloped  Potatoes. 

Celery   Salad,  Boiled  Dressing. 

Cracker  Pudding. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


BREAKFAST. 

Melons. 

Broiled  Ham,  Shirred  Eggs. 

White   Hashed  Potatoes. 

Entire-Wheat  Muffins. 

Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Boiled  Chicken,  Cauliflower  Sauce. 

Rice.     Baked  Squash.     Escalloped  Tomatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad.     Peach  Sherbet. 

Plunkets.        Cafe   Noir. 

SUPPER. 

Entire- Wheat  Bread  and  Butter. 

Apple  Sauce.  Neufchatel  Chetse. 

Sweet  Wafers.     Cocoa. 


H 
3 
C 

t/J 
O 
> 
< 


BREAKFAST. 

Barley  Crystals,  Stewed  Pears,  Cream. 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Sweet  Green  Peppers. 

Cornmeal  Mush  Fried,  Maple  Syrup. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Scalloped  Oysters. 

Cole-slaw  in  Cabbage  Shell.       Baking-Powder 

Biscuit. 

Blushing  Apples  with  Orange  Sauce. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Sirloin  Steak  Broiled,  Bernaise  Sauce. 

French  Fried  Potatoes.     Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Lima-Bean  Salad. 

Cranberry  Puffs,  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Grapes. 

Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat,  Cream. 

Salt  Mackerel  Broiled,  Cream. 

Baked  Potatoes.     Sliced  Tomatoes.     Dry  Toast. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

DINNER. 

Kornlet  Soup,  Croutons. 

Escalloped  Halibut.      Egg  Plant  au  Gratin. 

Lettuce-and-Cheese  Salad. 

Cottage  Pudding,  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Macaroni  in  Tomato  Sauce. 

Squash  Pie. 

Tea. 


BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 
Tripe  Fried  in  Batter, 

Chili  Sauce. 

Moulded  Cereal  Fried. 

Dry  Toast. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


DINNER. 

Clam  Broth. 

Chicken  Souffle, 

Mushroom  Sauce. 

Succotash  with  Tomatoes. 

Apple-and-Nut  Salad. 

Fresh  Peach  Shortcake. 

Coffee. 


SUPPER. 

Potato-and-Mackerel  Salad. 

Cream  Toast. 

Bread  and  Butter. 

Apple  Sauce. 

Tea. 


136 


THE  BOSTO.V  COOA'/Xa-SC//OOL   MA'GAZIXK. 


IN  REFERENCE   TO  RECIPES   AND  MENUS, 


"  Of  making  many  books  there  is  no 
end."  The  making  of  recipes  in  this 
enlightened  age  has  often  been  criti- 
cised. Far  be  it  from  us  to  bar  the 
way  to  progress  in  any  movement. 
Our  desire  is  to  simplify  processes, 
and,  as  far  as  possible,  inspire  con- 
tentment and  pleasure  in  housekeeping. 
Still,  as  a  culinary  organ,  we  address, 
at  each  issue,  to  a  certain  extent,  a 
new  audience;  and  we  feel  constrained 
to  present  the  most  available  dishes  of 
the  season  in  such  a  manner  that  she 
who  runs  may  read.  In  doing  this, 
however,  we  do  not  ignore  the  fact 
that  this  is  the  nineteenth  century,  or 
that  the  mere  compilation  of  books  of 
recipes  is  a  feature  of  the  past.  Ifi 
cookery,  as  in  other  branches  of  sci- 
ence, we  know  that  generalization  is  a 
sign  of  the  times ;  we  are  aware,  also, 
that,  while  the  subject  of  cookery  may 
not  have  been  reduced,  as  yet,  to  the 
condition  of  an  exact  science,  still,  it 
may  be  considered  as  founded  on  a 
strictly  scientific  basis. 

But  have  the  great  majority  of  house- 
keepers been  trained  up  to  the  stand- 
ards of  the  present?  How  many,  out- 
side the  leaders,  in  any  phase  of  life, 
keep  fully  abreast  of  the  times?  And 
are  not  reforms  of  every  kind  best 
wrought  out  when  easy  measures  are 
pursued,  here  a  little  and  there  a  little, 
as  opportunity'  oilers  ?  In  brief,  it 
would  seem  to  be  the  part  of  wisdom 
to  take  the  world  as  we  find  it,  and  be 
guided  sornewhat  by  a  spirit  of  con- 
servatism even  in  humble  matters. 

Could  we  satisfy  an  ever-changing 
clientele  in  abstaining  hereafter  from 
printing  an  exact  recipe  for  any  variety 


of  sponge  cake,  because  in  this  issue 
we  have  given  the  general  formula  for 
sponge-cake  mixtures?  And  this  is 
the  formula :  Use  the  weight  of  the 
egi^^s  in  sugar,  and  half  the  weight  in 
liour.  and  flavoring. 

We  believe  that  every  woman  in 
charge  of  the  cuisine  of  a  familv 
should  be  taught  to  group  the  various 
culinary  operations  into  distinct  classes, 
and  she  should  know  the  formulas  that 
are  required  for  the  production  of  arti- 
cles in  eich  class.  These  things,  once 
known,  the  whole  subject  of  recipes 
and  cookery  is  simplified,  and  failure, 
even  in  trying  new  ingredients,  at  least 
from  a  lack  of  proper  combination  of 
materials,  becomes  unknown. 

For  instance,  among  the  recipes  in 
this  issue  will  be  found  two  for  apple 
souffle'.  These,  though  not  the  best  for 
the  purpose,  may  be  taken  as  examples 
of  the  two  classes  of  souffle's.  In  either 
case,  the  apple  pulp  may  be  replaced 
by  the  pulp  of  any  other  fruit;  the 
dried  fruits,  as  figs,  dates,  and  prunes, 
when  cooked  and  reduced  to  a  thick 
pulp,  being  especially  adapted  to  the 
first  recipe, 'or  fruit  souffle'  proper  ;  while 
the  second,  deprived  of  its  superflui- 
ties, having  a  paste  foundation,  is  better 
adapted  to  the  presentation  of  vege- 
table pulps,  grated  cheese,  and  pounded 
fi^h  or  meat,  each  seasoned  with  its 
appropriate  condiments  and  spices,  and 
named  in  accordance  with  the  distin- 
guishing article  used.  Thus,  the  sub- 
ject of  souffle's  may  be  generalized, 
somewhat.  But  in  actual  practice, 
when  meat  or  fish  of  one  or  several 
harmonizing  varieties  are  at  hand,  the 
quantity  of  milk  and  fine-chopped  fish 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


^11 


or  meat  may  each  he  increased  to  a 
pint,  without  increasing  the  quantity  of 
flour  or  the  number  of  eggs,  by  simply 
adding  to  the  foundation  half  a  cup  of 
soft  bread  crumbs. 

The  Menus. 
The  last  of  the  above  souffles  is  the 
one  suggested  in  the  menu  for  the 
Saturday  dinner;  in  this  what  is  left 
of  the  boiled  chicken,  served  on  Thurs- 
day, is  to  be  used.  Chicken  liquor 
may  take  the  place  of  the  whole  or  a 
part  of  the  milk,  and  the  dish  may  be 
served  with  a  tomato  or  bechamel 
sauce,  instead  of  the  mushroom  sauce 
indicated.  One  cup,  each,  of  chicken 
and  milk,  two  small  eggs,  and  other 
ingredients,  accordingly,  will  suffice 
for  four  or  five  people. 

Coffee  Rolls. 
The  coffee  rolls  given  for  breakfast 
Sunday  may  be  made  from  brioche,  or 
from  a  bun  mixture.  Avoid  usinji  two 
much  flour  in  the  latter.  In  shaping 
any  of  the  articles  made  from  brioche, 
keep  in  mind  that  it  is  a  very  soft,  rich 
paste,  and  that  it  needs  be  thoroughly 
chilled  on  ice  before  it  can  be  shaped  ; 
when  chilled  it  may  be  formed  with 
ease  into  large  or  individual  brioche, 
with  head  or  orher  fanciful  shapes. 
Potatoes  and  Suceotash. 
Baked  potatoes  for  breakfast  are 
given  frequently,  as  in  many  ranges 
the  first  fire  of  the  morning  heats  the 
oven  very  quickly,  and  the  potatoes 
are  more  easily  baked  at  this  hour  than 
at  any  other;  but,  when  a  gas  range 
is  used,  and  no  other  article  is  pre- 
pared for  the  oven,  it  is  an  item  of 
considerable  economy  to  cook  the  po- 
tatoes in  some  other  way.  The  menus 
are  suggestive  only;  each  housekeeper 
is  the  best  judge,  whether  it  be  a  mat- 
ter of  wisdom  or  not,  for  one  circum- 


stanced as  she  is,  to  follow  out  the  sug- 
gestions in  detail.  T'le  white  hashed 
potatoes,  given  many  times  before,  are 
cold  potatoes  chopped  fine,  tossed  in  a 
frying-pan  with  a  little  melted  butter 
or  dripping,  and  slowly  cooked  with  a 
little  white  stock  or  hot  water,  without 
taking  color;  a  sprinkling  of  salt,  and 
a  few  bits  of  butter,  are  also  needed, 
and  the  frying-pan  should  be  covered 
during  the  cooking.  Fresh  lima  beans 
are  available  in  October,  as  are  to- 
matoes; but  the  corn  needed  to  com- 
plete the  dish  of  succotash  must  un- 
doubtedly be  canned. 

Thanksgiving  Turkey. 
The  turkey,  and  nothing  but  the 
turkey,  will  do  for  the  Thanksgiv- 
ing feast,  because,  as  some  one  has 
facetiously  remarked,  "we  discovered 
them  ;  "  and  surely  no  more  appropri- 
ate plat  could  be  served  on  a  holiday 
confined  to  a  portion  of  the  New  World 
than  a  bird  native  to  the  soil. 

"  Let  the  land 
Look^for  his  peer;  he  has  not  yet  been  found." 

That  is,  if  he  be  well  presented. 
First  of  all,  let  the  turkey  be  properly 
dressed  as  soon  as  he  is  killed.  The 
eating  of  cold-storage  fowl,  kept  un- 
drawn- for  months,  calls  for  something 
more  than  protest  on  the  part  of  the 
housekeeper.  Of  minor  consideration, 
but  well  worthy  of  attention,  are  the 
matters  of  dry -picking,  drawing  the 
tendons,  and  careful  cooking.  The 
plumpest,  tenderest,  choicest  bird  of  a 
flock  will  surely  come  •from  the  oven 
dry  arid  tasteless,  unless  it  be  given  the 
necessary  attention. 

A  roasting-pan,  with  a  hinged  cover, 
is  quite  a  necessity,  unless  one  is 
willing  to  baste  a  fowl  almost  con- 
stantly. Many  a  roast  turkey  is  sent 
to  the  table  ruined  by  subjection  to  too 


138 


THE  BOSrOX  COOKIXG-SCIIOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


fierce  a  heat.  After  the  initial  searing 
of  the  surface  the  temperature  of  the 
oven  should  be  lowered ;  long,  slow 
cooking,  at  moderate  heat,  the  surface 
being  kept  moist  with  hot  dripping 
and  water,  is  requisite  to  proper  re- 
sults. 

Celery  sauce  (white)  is  the  accom- 
paniment of  a  boiled,  rather  than  of  a 
roast  turkey ;  but,  for  a  change,  a  brown 
celery  sauce  may  prove  agreeable.  For 
this  a  browned  flour  is  cooked  in 
browned  butter,  and  brown  stock,  highly 
flavored  with  celery,  is  added,  and,  at 
the  last  cooked  bits  of  celery  are  sim- 
mered in  it  a  few  moments. 

In  the  first  menu  the  turkey  is 
cooked  without  stuffing,  the  Baltimore 
samp  taking  the  place  of  the  stuffing ; 
but  an  onion,  or  piece  of  bread,  should 
be  placed  inside  to  furnish  moisture. 

In  the  second  menu  the  potato 
stuffing  takes  the  place  of  the  potato 
that  is  served  apart. 

For  the  third  menu  prepare  a  plain 
chestnut  stuffing;  then,  when  about 
ready  to  dish  the  turkey,  simmer  a 
pound  of  small-sized  link  sausage  in 
boiling  water  ten  minutes,  first  prick- 
ing them  many  times  with  a  fork,  then 


finish  cooking  in  the  oven.  Also  put 
into  the  oven  a  cup  of  blanched  chest- 
nuts, with  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  glaze;  when  the  glaze  has  melted, 
with  it  baste  the  chestnuts  every  few 
minutes  until  they  are  shiny  and  well 
glazed.  To  garnish,  form  a  wreath 
about  the  turkey,  alternating  a  chest- 
nut with  three  sausage,  one  placed 
above  the  other  two. 

The  turkey,  served  with  fried  oysters 
and  stewed  gooseberries  (canned  or 
preserved),  after  the  fashion  of  the 
English,  to  whom  native  cranberries 
are  unknown,  will  be  an  agreeable 
change  for  many.  But  whether  gar- 
nished or  not  for  serving,  bear  in 
mind  that  the  turkey  will  look  best 
on  a  dish  that  affords  plenty  of  space. 
One-third  the  surface  of  the  platter 
should  be  left  free  for  appearance'  sake 
and  the  convenience  of  the  carver. 
Salads. 

Either  mayonnaise  or  French  dress- 
ing may  be  served  with  the  salads*,  but 
a  French  dressing  would  be  the  choice, 
with  the  celery-and-orange  salad ;  in- 
deed, this  is  always  the  more  appro- 
priate dressing  for  a  salad  at  a  heavy 
dinner. 


^c^r'k^'k^^^i^^'k^i^^ 


Queries  and  Answers, 


T^ts  departmetit  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers. 
Questions  relating  to  menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary 
science  and  domestic  economics  in  general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered 
by  the  Editor.  Communicatio7is  for  this  department  must  reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month 
preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to  appear.  In  letters  requesting  annver  by 
mail,  please  enclose  postage  stamp  ;  for  menus ^  one  dollar.  Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hilly 
Editor,  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  ^"^2  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  394.  —  Mrs.  E.  J.  O.,  Brook- 
lyn, A\  v.:  ''Are  broilers  made  for 
small  pieces  of  steak,  or  two  or  three 
chops  that  can  be  used  over  a  gas  burner 
on  the  top  of  a  gas  range,  —  something  that 
does  not  give  a  pan-broiling  result  /  Why 
is  it  advisable  to  cook  spitiach  in  the  water 
that  clings  to  it  in  washing  (  How  many 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  are  used  in  the 
recipe  for  entire-wheat  muffins,  page  8j, 
Vol.  V.  /  fs  basil  the  same  thi?ig  as  ber- 
gamot  i  What  is  the  best  earthenware 
moulds  for  individual  blanc-mange,  etc.  1 " 
Small  Broilers. 

Inexpensive  double  broilers  are 
made,  corresponding  in  size  and  shape 
to  stove  plates  or  covers.  They  may 
be  purchased  of  any  dealer  in  wire 
goods.  Broiling  over  a  gas  burner  on 
the  top  of  a  gas  range  is  objectionable, 
as  there  is  no  way  of  carrying  the 
smoke  up  the  chimney. 
Spinach. 

In  cooking  spinach  in  a  large  quan- 
tity of  water  that  must  be  drained  from 
it,  the  potash  salts,  its  most  valuable 
constituent,  are  lost ;  tender  spinach 
will  cook  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  ; 
if  attention  can  be  given  to  the  process, 
use  a  little  more  water  and  less  heat. 
Sugar  in  Entire-  Wheat  Muffins. 

But  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  were 
called  for  in  the  recipe.  The  repeti- 
tion was  unintentional.    However,  espe- 


cially if  used  as  tea  muffins,  many  would 
prefer  the  extra  quantity  of  sugar. 
Basil  and  Bergamot. 

Basil  and  bergamot  both  belong  to 
the  mint  family,  but  are  members  of 
entirely  different  tribes  ;  the  leaves  are 
quite  unlike.  In  its  manner  of  growth, 
bergamot  is  quite  similar  to  the  plant 
called  Oswego  tea ;  it  is,  also,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  same  tribe. 

Earthenware  Moulds. 

Individual  earthenware  moulds  are 
of  various  makes.  Japanese  moulds 
are  rather  heavy,  but  much  used.  A 
blue-and-white  German  ware  is  lighter 
in  weight  and  very  prett}'. 


Mrs. 


Mt.  Pleas- 


QuERY  395. 
ant,  Pa.  :  "  Recipe  for  Taylor  cakes'' 
Taylor  Cakes.      {Contributed^ 

Cream  one  cup  of  butter  with  one 
of  granulated  sugar ;  add  one  pint  of 
molasses  mixed  with  one  cup  of  sour 
milk.  Then  add  five  cups  of  flour 
sifted  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda 
and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  gin- 
ger. Beat  thoroughly  and  drop  on  tins. 
Bake  in  a  slow  oven. 


Query  396. — M.  A.  M.,  A'orth 
Ca?nbridge,  Mass.:  '' A  recipe  for  pecan 
sticks:' 

Pecan  Sticks.     (  Contributed,  j 

Mix  together,  until  stiff,  the  whites 


40 


77//:    /'>\>Sy().\    COOA/\L-MJ/i}OJ.   M.iGA/JXE, 


of  six  eggs,  one  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  one  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon, 
one  pound  of  pecan  meats  ground  fine, 
and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  Roll 
to  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  cut 
in  strips  one  inch  wide  and  six  inches 
long,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven. 
When  done  curl  around  a  stick,  or 
serve  without  rolling,  piled  in  log-cabin 
fashion. 


Query  397.— J/z-j-.  F.  P.  B.,  New 
London,  Conn.:  ^^  A  recipe  for  currant 
jelly,  which  I  recently  tried  to  follow, 
reads :  '  Cook  slowly  till  curra?its  look 
zvhite,^  afid  recommends  heating  the 
sugar.  What  is  meant  by  the  first  ex- 
pression, and  why  heat  the  sugar  {  " 
Currant  felly. 

Most  cooks  think  their  way  of  mak- 
ing currant  jelly  the  best.  Individu- 
ally, we  think  that  way  the  best  that 
calls  for  the  least  cooking,  as  the  cur- 
rant flavor  is  lost  by  cooking.  We 
should  express  the  juice,  without  cook- 
ing, then,  when  the  juice  boils,  add 
the  heated  sugar  ;  thus  added,  the  juice 
does  not  stop  boiling,  and,  if  a  small 
quantity  be  boiled  at  one  time,  it  is 
soon  ready  to  pour  into  the  glasses. 
Currant  skins,  from  which  the  juice 
has  been  taken  either  by  cooking  or 
pressure,  look  white ;  and  this  is  prob- 
ably what  is  meant  in  the  recipe  re- 
ferred to. 


Query  39S.  —  Mrs.  S.  L.  F.,  Barn- 
well, S.  C. :  "  Fart  of  our  fa7nily  are 
vegetarians^  and  in  making  biscuit  we 
use  cottonseed  oil  for  shortenijig :  but  the 
biscuits  are  tough.  They  are  also  tough 
ivhen  butter  is  used.  Is  the  four  at 
fault?  It  is  the  best  we  can  buy  here.''^ 
Tough  Biscuit. 

Use  pastry  flour  ;  bread  flour  milled 


especially  for  yeast  mixtures,  though 
more  expensive,  is  not  the  best  to  use 
with  other  leavening  agents.  If  sweet 
or  sour  cream  be  available,  use  one  or 
the  other  with  baking  powder  or  soda, 
as  is  needed,  adding  also  the  oil  or 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  to  one  quart 
of  flour. 


Query  399. —  Mrs.  f.  M.  S.,  Chan- 
die  rvi  lie,  III.:  ^^  Recipes  for  fruit  salad 
ivithout  bananas,  caramel  cream,  afid 
velvet  cake.'" 

Fruit  Salad. 

Slice  three  sweet  oranges,  length- 
wise, after  removing  the  skin  and  pith ; 
skin,  seed,  and  cut  in  halves  half  a 
pound  of  white  grapes.  Toss  together 
with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
olive  oil :  toss  again  with  a  generous 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  sprinkle 
ver}'  lightly  with  salt,  and  serve  within 
a  circle  of  heart  leaves  of  lettuce.  May- 
onnaise dressing,  either  alone,  or  mixed 
with  whipped  cream,  may  also  be  used. 
Serve  as  soon  as  dressed. 

Cara?nel  Ice-Cream. 

Stir  and  cook  one  cup  of  sugar  untfl 
it  becomes  caramel ;  dissolve  in  one 
quart  of  scalded  milk  :  cook  in  the  milk, 
while  dissolving  the  caramel,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of.  cornstarch  diluted  with  a 
little  cold  milk;  let  cook  ten  minutes, 
then  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten 
and  mixed  with  half  a  cup  of  sugar ; 
strain,  and  let  cool ;  add  one  pint  of 
cream  and  freeze  as  usual. 

Velvet  Sponge  Cake. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  until  light- 
colored  and  thick  ;  gradually  add  two 
cups  of  sugar,  beating  constantly,  then 
very  gradually  one  cup  of  boiling  water; 
add  two  cups  and  one-half  of  flour 
sifted  with  two  (level)  tablespoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  and,  lastly,  the  whites 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


141 


of  three  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  extract.  Bake  in 
two  loaves. 


Query  _^oo.— J/.  Z.  D.,  Fine  Bluff, 
Ark. :  "'Recipe  for  light-colored  boiled 
pudding,  without  spice.  What  is  "  crime 
de  ?nenthe,''  and  where  can  it  be  procured  ? 
Menu  —  not  to  exceed  three  courses  — 
for  a  music  club  of  tzuenty  7?iembers.'^ 
Crhne  de  Menthe. 

Creme  de  menthe  is  a  cordial  or 
liqueur  prepared  from  alcohol,  sugar, 
and  peppermint.  It  may  be  purchased 
in  cities  at  druggists',  or  at  stores  where 
fine  groceries  are  kept.  Creme-de- 
menthe  ice  is  occasionally  served  at  a 
ladies'  luncheon  in  the  library  imme- 
diately after  the  luncheon.  The  cor- 
dial is  said  to  contain  but  little,  if  any, 
more  alcohol  than  is  used  in  vanilla 
and  other  extracts.  For  pudding  recipe 
see  recipe  for  cranberry  puffs. 

Menu  for  Music  Club. 

I. 

Whitefish  in  Paper  Cases.     Olives. 

Chickex-and-Mushroom  Salad. 
Graham-and- White-Bread  Sandwiches. 

Ginger  Ice-Cream. 
White  Sponge  Drops.  Coffee. 

II. 

Orange-and-White-Grap"e  Salad. 

White-Bread  Sandwiches. 

Pecan  Sticks.         Othellos.         Meringues. 

Cocoa  with  Whipped  Cream. 

Pick  cooked  whiterish  in  shreds.  For 
each  cup  of  fish  make  a  scant  cup  of 
cream  sauce,  and  fiavor  with  five  or 
six  drops  of  onion  juice  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper;  stir  the  fish  into  the 
hot  sauce,  and  turn  into  buttered  paper 
cases  :  sprinkle  with  buttered  cracker 
crumbs  and  brown  in  the  oven.     Serve 


very  hot.  Oysters,  lobster,  chicken,  or 
veal  may  be  used.  For  the  salad  use 
fresh  mushrooms,  or  the  French  canned 
button  mushrooms.  One  bottle  of 
mushrooms  will  sumce  for  the  meat  of 
two  chickens.  Cut  the  mushrooms  in 
quarters,  lengthwise,  and  add  half  as 
much  celer}^  as  meat.  Use  mayonnaise 
or  boiled  dressing. 


Query  401. — /.  M.  J/.,  Xtw  York 
City  :  '  'Ideas  for  a  '  stag  dinner '  for  the 
early  part  of  October.'' 

Menu  for  ••  Stag  Dinner.'* 

Canapes  of  Norwegian  Anchovies. 

Chicken  a  la  Reine,  or  Consomme  au 

Pates. 

Lobster  Newburgh. 

Marinade  of  Lamb  Chops,  Broiled. 

Mashed  Potatoes. 

Mushroom  Puree.      Oyster  Bolchees. 

Saddle  of  Venison,  Currant  Jelly. 

Lettuce-and-Celery  Salad. 

Cauliflower,  Cheese  Sauce.       Baba. 

Ices  in  Meringues. 
Broiled  Mushrooms.         Cafe  Xoir 

Serve  the  canape's  in  little  glass 
dishes  or  on  plates.  Cover  the  round 
or  crescent  shaped  bit  of  buttered  and 
browned  bread  with  chopped  white  of 
Qgg  dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar :  sift 
over  the  yolk,  arrange  on  this  fi'.lets  of 
Norwegian  anchovies :  decorate  the 
disli  with  slices  of  lemon  and  quarters 
of  hard-boiled  egg. 

After  trimming  the  superfiuous  fat 
from  the  chops,  and  scraping  the  bones, 
let  stand  several  hours  in  a  mari- 
nade composed  of  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  oil  to  one  of  vinegar,  also  a 
mild  onion  sliced,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  half  a  dozen, 
each,  of  peppercorns  and  cloves  :  turn 
occasionallv.  and.  when  readv  to  broil, 


142 


Tin-:  HOSTOX  COOKIXC-SCIIOOI.   AfACAX/X/:. 


drain  and  wipe,  then  brusli  over  lightly 
with  melted  butter  or  olive  oil.  Serve 
around  a  mound  of  well-mashed  and 
seasoned  potato  arranged  to  hold  a 
puree  of  mushrooms  or  buttered  fla- 
geolets. Cover  the  ends  of  the  chop 
bones  with  paper  frills.  Prepare  a 
brown  sauce  for  the  oysters  used  to 
fill  the  bouche'es.  Fill  half  the  mer- 
ingues with  water  ice,  the  other  half 
with  cream  ice,  and  press  together  in 
pairs.  Finish  the  repast  with  a  single 
broiled  mushroom  on  a  round  of  toast 
for  each  service. 


Query    402.  —  6".   A.  M.,   Stewart- 
ville,  Minji. :  "  What  is  paprica  ^    Give 
recipe  for  foftiato  Jelly.'' 
Faprica. 

Paprica  is  ground  Hungarian  sweet 
pepper.  It  is  a  mild  condiment  dis- 
tinguished by  the  fact  that  when  mois- 
tened it  imparts  its  color  to  whatever 
is  combined  with  it. 

T^oinato  Jelly.* 

Soak  three-fourths  a  box  of  gelatine 
in  half  a  cup  of  cold  water.  Cook  a 
can  of  tomatoes,  half  an  union,  a  stalk 
of  celery,  a  bay  leaf,  two  cloves,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  paprica 
ten  minutes.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar  and  the  gelatine  ; 
stir  till  dissolved,  then  strain  into  a 
mould.  Serve  with  salad  dressing,  or 
as  a  garnish  to  a  dressed  salad. 


Query  403.  —  Mrs.  C.  B.  M.,  New 
York    City :    "  What  books  would  you 
recommend  one  to  read  who  is  tryifig  to 
get  some  knowledge  of  domestic  scietice  I  " 
Books  071  Domestic  Science. 
Domestic  science  is  a  very  compre- 
hensive  subject,    and    a   short    list    of 
books  on  the  subject  such  as  we  can 
print   at  this  time  is  not  very  satisfac- 


tory. We  would  include  in  any  con- 
siderable list :  "  Education  of  Man," 
Frobel ;  *'  Treatise  on  Hygiene  and 
Public  Health,"  by  A.  H.  Buck; 
"  Methods  and  Results  of  Investiga- 
tions on  the  Chemistry  and  Econ- 
omy of  Food,"  by  W.  O.  Atwater ; 
"  Food  and  its  Functions,"  by  James 
Knight:  "Dust  and  its  Dangers,"  by 
T.  M.  Prudden  ;  "  Story  of  the  Bac- 
teria," by  T.  M.  Prudden ;  "  How  to 
Drain  a  House,"  by  G.  E.  Waring, 
Jr.;  "Ventilation  and  Heating,"  by  J. 
S.  Billings ;  "  Chemistry  of  Cooking," 
by  Mattieu  Williams;  "The  Spirit  of 
Cookery,"  Thudicum;  "Home  Econom- 
ics," by  Maria  Parloa;  "  Domestic  Ser- 
vice," by  Lucy  M.  Salmon  ;  "  Chemistry 
of  Cooking  and  Cleaning,"  by  jNIrs. 
Richards,  and  "  Household  Art,"  by 
Mrs.  Candace  Wheeler. 


Query  404. —  C.  S.  A.,  Toledo,  O. : 
'•'' Recipes  for  using  cold  meat.'" 

Roast  or  Braised  Beef  in   Gravy. 

Chop  half  a  green  pepper,  after  re- 
moving the  seeds.  Cook  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  few  moments, 
then  add  a  cup  of  the  brown  sauce 
made  for  the  meat  when  it  was  first 
served.  When  boiling  add  a  few 
drops  only  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 
and  a  cup  of  thin  slices  of  meat  from 
w^hich  all  skin  and  gristle  have  been 
removed.  Do  not  let  boil,  but  serve 
as  soon  as  thoroughly  heated. 
Scalloped  Mutton. 

Boil  until  tender  about  a  cup  of 
macaroni  broken  in  inch  pieces.  Make 
a  pint  of  tomato  sauce.  Put  a  layer 
of  the  macaroni  in  a  butteried  baking- 
dish,  cover  with  tomato  sauce,  now 
add  a  layer  of  cold  mutton  cut  in  thin 
slices  and  trimmed  neatly,  then  a  layer 
of  macaroni  and  sauce,  with  a  layer  of 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCIIOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


143 


meat  and  sauce  above,  and  cover  with 
a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs  stirred  into 
one-third  a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Set 
into  the  oven  long  enough  to  brown 
the  crumbs. 

Creamed  Chickeft. 

Make  a  cup  of  sauce,  using  chicken 
liquor,  cream,  or  milk  as  the  liquid. 
When  boiling,  add  a  cup  of  chicken 
cut  in  cubes.  When  thoroughly  heated 
(without  boiling),  serve  in  a  border  of 
plain  boiled  rice  into  which  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been 
stirred. 

Chicken    Cf'oqiiettes. 

Stir  a  pint  of  fine-chopped  chicken 
into  a  cup  and  a  quarter  of  sauce 
made  of  one-third  a  cup  of  flour,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  cup  of 
chicken  stock,  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
cream  ;  season  with  onion  and  lemon 
juice,  salt  and  pepper.  When  thor- 
oughly chilled,  shape  as  desired,  ^gg- 
and-bread-crumb  and  fry  in  deep  fat. 


Query  405.  —  Miss  M.  E.  (9.,  Lit- 
tle Falls,   N.   v.:    '' Ki7idly   repeat   the 
sauce  for  ice-cream  printed  in  the  Maga- 
zine about  one  year  ago^ 
Chocolate  Sauce  for  Vanilla  Ice- Cream. 

Mix  two  ounces  of  grated  chocolate 
and  two  cups  of  granulated  sugar  ;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a 
cup  of  water,  and  a  piece  of  cinnamon 
bark  an  inch  long;  cook  to  the  soft- 
ball  stage ;  remove  the  cinnamon  and 
pour  hot  over  each  serving  of  vanilla 
ice-cream.  The  sauce  will  candy  upon 
the  cold  cream. 


Query  406.  —  A  subscriber,  San 
Francisco,  Cal. :  ''Can  cooking -fat  be 
cleaned  indefifiitely  ?  Also  recipes  for 
leftovers.^' 


Purification  of  Frying-Fat. 

Fat  may  be  cleaned  indefinitely  for 
frying  purposes,  if  it  has  not  been 
burned.  After  fat  has  been  over- 
heated or  burned,  food  cooked  in  it 
does  not  taste  well,  nor  does  it  take  on 
the  color  desired  in  fried  food.  One 
reason  why  olive  oil  is  an  economical 
frying  medium  is  because  it  may  be 
heated  to  a  temperature  of  600°  Fahr. 
without  burning.  Animal  fats  are 
overheated  after  reaching  a  tempera- 
ture of  400°  Fahr.  By  taking  proper 
care  and  testing  with  a  bit  of  bread, 
no  fat  need  be  overheated.  Each 
time  after  using,  when  the  fat  has  be- 
come cool,  the  sediment  (flour,  crumbs, 
etc.,  from  the  articles  fried),  which  will 
burn  before  the  fat  becomes  hot 
enough  for  frying,  should  be  removed 
from  the  bottom  of  the  cake  of  fat. 
When  frying  is  again  in  order,  add  a 
potato  cut  in  thin  slices  to  the  melted 
fat ;  let  cook  until  bubbling  ceases 
and  the  slices  are  browned,  then  skim 
out.  The  porous  potato  will  have  ab- 
solved the  odors  and  impurities  and 
thus  have  cleansed  and  purified  the 
fat. 

Shepherd^s  Pie. 

Brown  an  onion,  sliced,  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  and  cook  until 
frothy;  add  salt  and  pepper  and  one 
pint  of  stock  made  from  the  bones  and 
trimmings  of  whatever  meat  is  at  hand ; 
after  boiling  a  few  minutes  add  three 
cups  of  meat,  nicely  trimmed,  turn  into 
a  baking -dish,  and  cover  with  hot 
mashed  potato  (reheated)  ;  brush  over 
the  potato  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
diluted  with  a  little  milk,  brown  in  the 
oven,  and  serve  at  once. 
Mutton  Hash. 

To  a  pint  of  thin  slices  of  cold  mut- 


144 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXC-SC HOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


ton,  neatly  trimmed,  add  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion 
juice,  a  tablespoonful  of  fine-chopped 
parsley,  half  a  cup  of  cold  stock  (that 
in  which  the  mutton  was  cooked  will 
do),  and  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester 
sauce;  let  the  meat  stand  two  or  three 
hours.  Make  a  cup  and  a  half  of 
rather  thick  sauce ;  add  the  meat  and 
such  liquid  as  has  not  been  absorbed, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  capers  or  fine  -  chopped  cucumber 
pickles.  Let  stand,  without  boiling, 
until  very  hot.  Serve  on  toast,  or  in- 
side a  border  of  mashed  potato. 
Mouhied  Cereal  fo?-  Frying. 

Turn  any  cereal  left  from  breakfast, 
while  hot,  into  buttered  baking-pow- 
der boxes.  When  cold  turn  from  the 
boxes,  cut  in  slices,  dredge  lightly  wdth 
flour,  and  saute'  in  hot  bacon  fat  or 
dripping.  Or,  egg- and- bread-crumb, 
and  fry  in  deep  fat. 

Onion  Souffle. 

Cook  three  tablespoonfuis  of  flour  in 
four  tablespoonfuis  of  butter;  add  half 
a  cup  of  the  liquid  left  in  the  dish  after 
serving  boiled  onions,  or  use  milk,  a 
few  grains,  each,  of  salt  and  paprica, 
then  add  enough  cooked  onions  passed 
through  a  coarse  sieve  to  make  three- 
fourths  a  cup :  reheat,  and  add  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  light,  and 
fold  in  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
dry.  Bake,  standing  in  a  dish  of  hot 
water,  about  twenty-five  minutes,  and 
serve  at  once.  Turnip  is  good  pre- 
pared in  this  way. 


Query  407. — A.  H.,  Harlem,  X.  Y.  : 
^'-Recipes for  baked  or  steamed  Indian pud- 
ding,  Xesselrode  pudding  with  whipped- 
cream  sauce.' ^ 

Baked  Indian  Pudding. 

Scald  one  quart  of  milk.     Pour  this 


gradually  on  three  tablespoonfuis  of 
granulated  Indian  meal.  Cook  one 
hour  in  a  double-boiler,  stirring  often, 
then  add  three  tablespoonfuis  of  but- 
ter, one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  cup 
of  molasses,  two  eggs,  and  a  quart  of 
cold  milk.  Mix  well,  pour  into  a  well- 
buttered  dish,  and  bake  one  hour. 
Serve  wdth  whipped  cream. 

Steamed  Indian  Pudding. 

Sift  together  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
Indian  meal,  half  a  cup  of  wheat  flour, 
two  teaspoonfuls  (level)  of  baking-pow- 
der, and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ; 
add  one  generous  cup  of  grated  maple 
sugar  and  one  cup  of  beef  suet  chopped 
fine;  mix  thoroughly,  then  add  one 
cup  and  a  fourth  of  sweet  milk  :  mix 
thoroughly  and  steam  three  or  four 
hours.      Serve  with  butter, 

Xesselrode  PuddiJig. 

Shell  and  blanch  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  Italian  chestnuts;  boil  until  tender; 
while  hot  pass  half  of  them  through  a 
sieve ;  cut  the  other  half  into  small 
cubes,  add  one-third  a  pound  of  French 
fruit  cut  into  small  pieces,  pour  over 
them  two  or  three  tablespoonfuis  of 
sherry  or  maraschino  and  let  stand 
several  hours.  Boil  a  cup  and  a  half 
of  sugar  and  one-third  a  cup  of  water 
five  minutes ;-  beat  the  yolks  of  five 
eggs  until  thick,  then  pour  the  syrup 
over  the  egg  in  a  fine  stream,  stirring 
all  the  time ;  then  cook  over  hot  water 
until  the  mixture  coats  the  spoon.  Beat 
until  cold,  then  add  the  mashed  chest- 
nuts, a  cap  and  a  half  of  cream  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract, 
and  freeze.  When  frozen,  add  the 
fruit  and  chestnuts  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  mould,  stand- 
ing in  ice  and  salt,  and  press  the  cover 
down  tightly  over  a  piece  of  wrapping- 
paper   spread   over    the    pudding :    let 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXK. 


145 


Stand  buried  in  four  parts  of  ice  to  one 
of  salt  until  ready  to  use.  To  serve, 
turn  from  the  mould  and  surround  with 

WHIPPED  CREAM    SAUCE. 

Dilute  three-fourths  a  cup  of  thick 
cream  with  one-fourth  a  cup  of  milk, 
and  beat,  until  stiff,  with  a  Dover  egg- 
beater;  add  one-third  a  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla. 

Query  408.—  A.  ff.,  Harlem,  N.  V.  : 
^^  Ho7V  to  boil  a  leg  of  lamb  or  micfton, 
cook  beef  a  la  mode^  a>id  roist  fowls,  so 
as  to  have  them  tender  and  juicy :  also 
recipe  for  beefsteak  and  onions'" 

Cooki/ig  of   Various  Meats. 

Put  a  leg  of  mutton  or  lamb  on  to 
cook  in  boiling  water ;  let  the  water 
boil  vigorously  five  or  six  minutes,  thus 
searing  over  the  meat  upon  the  outside 
to  keep  in  the  juices;  then  set  the  ket- 
tle where  the  liquid  will  bubble  occa- 
sionally very  gently  on  one  side.  Keep 
at  this  temperature  until  tender;  the 
length  of  time  required  will  vary  with 
the  age,  and  other  conditions,  of  the 
creature  from  which  the  meat  is  taken. 
Only  long,  slow  cooking  will  produce 
satisfactory  results.  Add  salt  after  the 
meat  begins  to  become  tender.  If  the 
meat  is  cooked  some  time  before  the 
hour  of  serving,  its  quality  will  not  be 
impaired  if  it  be  kept  hot. 

For  beef  a  la  mode,  buy  a  piece  from 
the  under  part  of  the  round  or  the  face 
of  the  rump;  let  stand  in  a  marinade 
several  hours  (half  a  cup,  each,  of  vine- 
gar and  oil,  a  chopped  onion,  eight 
peppercorns,  bay  leaf,  and  chopped 
parsley),  basting  often.  When  ready 
to  cook,  wipe  dry  and  brown  on  all 
sides  in  hot  dripping  (to  sear  over 
the  outside,  and  to  give  a  good  flavor 
to  the  meat),  then  half  cover  with  boil- 
ing water  and  let  cook  at  the  simmer- 


ing-point  (adding  salt  as  before)  from 
four  to  seven  hours.  Thicken  the  gravy 
with  flour  and  water  to  serve  with  the 
meat. 

To  roast  fowls,  rub  over  with  salt  and 
pepper,  put  strips  of  bacon  or  fat  salt 
pork  over  the  breast,  and  set  on  the 
rack  in  the  pan  without  water,  into  a 
hot  oven.  Turn  the  fowl,  that  all  sides 
be  exposed  to  the  greatest  heat,  and 
sear  over  the  outside,  then  baste  with 
hot  water  and  dripping,  and  add  hot 
water  to  the  pan;  baste  every  ten  min- 
utes. At  the  last  dredge  with  salt, 
peppjr,  and  flour,  after  each  basting. 
Cook  three  hours  and  upwards. 
Stuff.'d  Beefsteak  with   Onions. 

Buy  two  pounds  of  steak  from  the 
top  of  the  round;  boil  three  onions 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  chop 
fine  and  mix  with  one  cup  of  soft 
bread  crumbs ;  season  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  paprica. 
Spread  the  steak  on  a  meat -board, 
make  incisions  on  the  inner  surface  a 
few  inches  apart,  and  fill  these  with 
the  onion  mixture,  then  roll  up  the 
meat  and  tie  in  close  shape.  Heat  an 
iron  saucepan  and  melt  in  this  half 
a  cup  of  dripping  or  salt-pork  fat ;  put 
in  the  meat,  and  brown  on  all  sides, 
then  cover  and  let  cook,  very  slowly, 
on  the  back  of  the  range,  two  or  three 
hours  ;  then  pour  or  dip  off  all  the  fat, 
add  a  cup  of  stock  or  hot  water,  and 
cook  until  tender.  Serve  on  a  hot 
dish  after  removing  the  strings  and  the 
gravy. 

Broiled  Beefsteak  and  Onions. 

Just  before  broiling  the  steak  slice 
two  large,  mild  onions  very  thin,  and 
fry  in  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  as  is  needed.  Do  not  allow  the 
onions  to  become  too  dark- colored. 
While   the  onions   are   cooking   put   a 


46 


THE  BOSTOX  COOKIXG-SCHOOL  MAGAZIXE. 


sirloin  steak,  an  inch  and  a  half  thick, 
and  weighing  between  two  and  three 
pounds,  in  a  well-oiled  double  broiler, 
the  fat  edge  of  the  meat  towards  the 
handle ;  put  directly  over  and  close  to 
the  coals  and  cook  about  ten  minutes, 
turning  every  ten  seconds.  Draw  the 
meat  farther  away  from  the  coals  after 
the  first  forty  seconds.  Remove  to  a 
hot  serving  dish,  dust  with  salt  and 
pepper,  spread  lightly  with  butter, 
sprinkle  with  a  tablespoonful  of  fine- 
chopped  parsley  and  spread  the  onions 
on  the  top.  Cover,  and  let  stand  in 
the  oven  not  longer  than  three  or  four 
minutes.     Do  not  omit  the  parsley. 

Query  409.  —  Mrs.  J.  S.,  Neligh^ 
Keb.  :  ''  Recipe  for  viakitig  prepared 
floor  wax-y 

Floor    Wax. 

Melt  one  pound  of  wax  over  hot 
water  ;  when  quite  soft  remove  from 
the  water  and  beat  in  one  pint  of  tur- 
pentine, then,  if  a  soft  tinish  is  desired, 
add  one  gill  of  paralitine  oil ;  if  a  hard 
finish  is  preferred,  omit  the  oil  and 
add  one  gill  of  alcohol. 


Query  410. — Mrs.  A.  J.,    Youngs- 
town^  O. :  **  Ca7i  sal-soda  be  used  by  the 
average   maid  or  laujidress  without  in- 
jwy  to  the  articles  laundei-ed  I  " 
Sal-soda  for  the  Laufidry. 

Sal-soda  may  be  used  in  the  laundry 
to  advantage,  if  both  the  laundress 
and  housekeeper  will  bear  in  mind 
that  it  is  to  be  used  to  lighten  work 
and  shorten  time,  and  not  to  do  away 
with  all  work  save  rinsing.  Any  chem- 
ical of  such  strength  as  to  remove  all 
soil  from  clothing  without  rubbing  will 
destroy,  or  at  least  make  very  ten- 
der, the  fabric  so  treated.  To  use 
properly,  heat  one  pound  of  sal-soda 
in  one  quart  of  water  (it  will  be  per- 


fectly dissolved  by  the  time  the  boil- 
ing-point is  reached),  let  cool,  and 
store  in  bottles.  Add  one-fourth  a  cup 
to  a  tub  of  the  usual  size  rather  more 
than  half  filled  with  water.  The  solu- 
tion must  always  be  added  to  the 
water. 


Query  411. — Mrs.  R.  P.,  Akro?i,0.: 
"  Ifo7ci  is  Devonshii-e  cream,  to  serve 
li'ith  Junket,  prepared  ^  " 

Devonshire  Cream. 

Let  a  pan  of  milk  stand  in  a  cool 
place  twenty-four  hours,  then  set  the 
pan  on  the  back  of  the  range  and 
heat  the  milk  very  slowly  about  to 
the  boiling-point,  not,  however,  let- 
ting it  boil.  Now  set  the  pan  in  a 
cool  place  for  six  hours,  or  longer. 
At  serving- time  skim  off  the  cream 
and  put  a  spoonful  on  the  top  of  each 
individual  cup  of  junket  prepared  in 
the  usual  manner.  If  the  junket  needs 
additional  flavoring,  dust  with  cinna- 
mon or  gratings  of  nutmeg  before  add- 
ing the  cream.  Many  omit  all  flavor- 
ing, as  the  cream  has  a  particularly 
delicate,  sweet  flavor  peculiar  to  this 
dish. 


Query  412. —  Mrs.  E.  M.,  West 
Roxbury :  ^^ 'Recipe  for  the  chocolate 
sauce  served  at  soda-water  fountaitis 
with  vanilla  ice-c?-eam  under  the  na??te 
of  chocolate  frappe.^'' 

Sauce  for  Chocolate  Frappe. 

Grate  one  ounce  of  chocolate,  mix 
with  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  add  one  cup 
and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  stir,  and 
cook  five  minutes  after  boiling  begins  ; 
then  add  one  level  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  arrow-root,  mixed  smooth  in 
half  a  cup  of  cold  water,  and  let  boil 
five  minutes.  Use  when  cold  flavored 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 


News  and  Notes. 


The  programme  of  fall  demonstra- 
tions at  the  Boston  Cooking-School  is 
as  follows  :  — 

November  7  and  9  —  Quick  Lunch- 
eon Dishes  and  Simple  Desserts. 

November  14  and  16  —  Pastry. 

November  21  and  23  —  Suggestions 
for  Thanksgiving  Feasting. 

December  5  and  7  —  Bread  and  Muf- 
fins. 

December  12  and  14  —  Holiday 
Sweets. 

December  19  and  21 — Christmas 
Dinner. 

January  2  and  4  —  Soups  and  En- 
trees. 

January  9  and  1 1  —  Luncheon  for 
Six,  $5. 

January  16  and  18  —  Cake  and 
Frosting. 

January  23  and  25  —  Evening  Sup- 
per. 

January  30,  February  i  —  Family 
Dinner. 

February  6  and  8  —  Salads,  and 
How  to  Serve  Them. 

Season  tickets  for  the  evening  lec- 
tures, with  reserved  seat,  $3.50. 


Miss  Sarah  C.  Hill,  Class  of  '00, 
has  been  appointed  resident  teacher  to 
take  charge  of  the  diet  kitchen  at 
Michael  Reese  Hospital,  Chicago. 


Miss  Alice  Brady,  Class  of  '97,  has 
charge  of  the  diet  kitchen  at  the  Mas- 
sachusetts Homoeopathic  Hospital,  in 
Boston. 


Miss  Heald,  Class  of  '99,  has  re- 
signed her  position  at  Grace  Hospital, 
Detroit,  and  will  begin  work  at  the 
Roosevelt  and  Post  Graduate  Hospi- 
tals, New  York,  about  October  i. 


Miss  Stella  A.  Dodge,  Class  of  '99, 
has  been  appointed  teacher  at  the  Erie 
(Pa.)  Cooking- School. 


Miss  Helen  Armstrong,  of  Chicago, 
is  giving  demonstrations  in  cookery  in 
various  parts  of  the  West.  In  Sep- 
tember she  was  engaged  at  the  Wiscon- 
sin State  Fair,  held  in  Milwaukee. 


Mo  DEN  A,  Pa. 
Dear  Edito7% —  In  reading  my  last  number 
of  the  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine^ 
I  noted  a  query,  asking  if  it  was  possible  to 
keep  odorous  foods  in  the  same  refrigerator 
with  milk  and  butter.  If  I  might  be  permitted 
to  offer  a  suggestion,  I  would  like  to  tell  how 
we  have  overcome  such  a  difficulty.  For  the 
past  two  years  we  have  been  using  parchment 
paper  (it  can  be  bought  in  rolls).  We  have 
wrapped  fish,  canteloupe,  bacon,  and  ham  —  in 
fact,  anything  odorous  we  wanted  to  keep  cool, 
—  in  parchment  paper,  and  have  put  it  in  the 
same  cojnpartment  with  butter  or  milk  for  sev- 
eral hours  at  a  time,  and  have  never  known 
either  butter  or  milk  to  taste.  Friends  who  use 
it  say  the  same.  The  paper  is  perfectly  water- 
proof, and  can  be  washed  out,  carefully  dried 
in  the  sun,  and  put  away  to  use  again ;  we 
have  used  one  piece  five  or  six  times.  A 
housekeeper  who  has  once  tried  it  will  never 
want  to  be  without  it,  as  it  can  be  used  in  so 
many  other  ways  also. 

Very  respectfully, 

M.  B.  N. 


148 


71IK  BOSIXW  COOKJXG-SCJiOOL  MACAZIXE. 


BOOK  REVIEWS, 


ICES,  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THKM. 

by  Charles  Hornian  Scnn.  Cloth. 
Price,  Is.  (xl.  net.  London  :  Pood  and 
Cookery  Association. 

This  is  a  popular  treatise  on  cream, 
water  and  fancy  dessert  ices,  ice  pud- 
dings, mousses,  parfaits,  granites,  cool- 
ing cups,  punches,  etc.  In  small  space 
and  convenient  form  it  contains  all  the 
information  that  can  well  be  desired  in 
reference  to  the  art  of  making  iced 
dishes,  one  of  the  most  fascinating 
branches  of  cookery. 

The  author  is,  perhaps,  the  highest 
living  authority  in  Europe  or  America, 
on  culinary  science.  He  is  also  the 
author  of  many  practical  and  standard 
works  on  cookery.  In  the  introduc- 
tory part  of  this  little  volume  we  find 
the  following  bit  of  interesting  informa- 
tion :  — 

"Ices  were  originally  introduced  by 
Catherine  de  Medici  in  the  sixteenth 
century.  It  was  about  this  time  that 
the  French  people  learned  how  to 
freeze  water  artificially.  Whilst  water 
ices,  shaped  in  moulds,  were  first 
served  in  France  in  1660.  Soon  after 
this  they  were  introduced  into  Eng- 
land. Ices  derive  their  present  great 
popularity  from  America,  where  they 
are  consumed  during  the  summer  as 
well  as  winter  months  in  enormous 
quantities.  " 


THE  DOMESTIC  BLUNDERS  OF 
WOMEX.  By  A  Mere  Man.  Cloth. 
16nio.  Price,  $1.00.  New  York  : 
Funk  &  VVagnalls  Company. 

The  chief  points  of  criticism  in  this 
book  are  that  woman,  in  general,  are 
ignorant  of  the  value  of  money ;  they 
do  not  keep  accounts  ;  and  they  utterly 
ignore  business  principles.  The  argu- 
ment runs  thus :  "  the  house "  is  a 
branch  of  "the  office"  and  a  wife 
should  be  a  partner  in  the  concern. 
For  all  blunders  the  best  remedy  of- 
fered is  contained  in  the  simple  state- 


ment: A  business  cannot  be  carried 
on  unless  accounts  are  kept. 

We  like  the  idea  of  connecting  busi- 
ness methods  so  directly  with  home 
economics.  The  main  value  of  the 
book  consists  in  making  this  point 
clear  and  strong;  attention  is  thus 
called  to  a  very  important  matter.  At 
the  same  time,  the  author's  claims  and 
criticisms  are  doubtless  exaggerated. 
His  picture  is  overdrawn.  Too  often, 
in  this  mutual  "  concern,"  money  is 
spent  lavishly  in  clubs  and  junketing 
and  doled  out  most  sparingly  for  house- 
hold expenses.  We  venture  the  asser- 
tion that,  in  nine  cases  out  ten,  if  a 
wife  were  given  a  fair  allowance  for 
managing  the  house,  with  the  under- 
standing that  any  surplus  became 
personal  pin  money,  the  balance  would 
appear  on  the  rij^ht  side  of  the  account. 

But  not  the  least  interesting  part  of 
the  volume  is  that  of  the  correspon- 
dence called  forth  by  the  sweeping 
charges  of  A  Mere  Man.  One  thing 
surely  a  woman  will  never  do,  and 
that  is  acknowledge  her  mistakes. 
The  letters  of  dissent  from  the  views 
of  the  author  are  keen  and  ably  ex- 
pressed. In  them  the  writers  meet 
and  answer  effectively  every  point  of 
attack.  In  fact,  we  are  not  certain  but 
that  in  this  little  episode  the  author 
is  beaten  with  his  own  weapon  — 
"hoisted  on  his  own  petard." 

Vlatts  Chlorides. 

The  Household  Disinfectant 
instantly    destroys     foul    odors     and 
disease-breeding    matter,    preventing 
much  sickness. 

An  odorless,  colorless  liquid  ;  powerful,  safe 
and  economical.  Sold  in  quart  bottles  only, 
by  Druggists  and  high-class  Grocers.  Prepared 
only  by  Henry  B.  Piatt,  Piatt  St.,  New  York. 


THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL  MAGAZINE. 


49 


(  Concluded  from  page  ii8.) 
continue  to  rise,  and  begin  to  brown  ; 
then  should  become  all  over  a  rich 
golden  brown ;  and  in  the  last  quarter 
settle  a  little,  brown  in  the  cracks,  and 
shrink  from  the  pan." 

Sometimes,  especially  in  the  oven 
of  a  coal  or  wood  range,  it  seems  nec- 
essary to  move  a  cake.  In  the  "  first 
quarter,"  or  early  in  the  second,  it  may 
be  moved  very  gently  ;  after  this  screen 
with  tin  baking-sheets  or  paper ;  for, 
when  a  cake  has  reached  its  full  height, 
and  the  cells  have  not  become  fixed 
by  the  heat,  the  slight  jar  of  moving 
breaks  down  the  cells,  and  no  carbon 
dioxide  remains  by  which  other  cells 
may  be  evolved,  and  the  cake  is 
"heavy."  If  desired,  the  oven  door 
may  be  opened  a  reasonable  number 
of  times,  provided  it  be  done  without 
jarring  the  cake. 

Cakes,  with  the  exception,  perhaps, 
of  pound  cake,  are  fully  baked  when 
they  shrink  from  the  pan,  and  settle 
to  a  level.  All  cakes  are  well  done, 
when  they  make  only  a  slight  singing 
noise,  or  when  the  surface  rebounds  at 
once  on  being  pressed  with  the  finger. 

''DAINTY  FOOD/' 

TURNS    PALE    CHEEKS    TO    PINK. 

Our  best  physicians  of  the  present 
day  seek  to  cure  patients  by  the  use 
of  food,  rather  than  heavy  drugs ;  and 
this  is  the  true  method,  for  all  physi- 
cians agree  that  only  from  food  can 
the  body  be  rebuilt. 

Many  people  fail  to  give  their  phy- 
sicians credit,  for,  after  living  on  poorly 
selected   or   badly  cooked   food  for  a 


long  time,  perhaps,  and  when  their 
ailments  become  chronic,  they  expect 
the  doctor,  with  some  magic  potency, 
to  instantly  rebuild  them. 

This  is  not  possible.  The  only  true 
method  is  to  turn,  as  quickly  as  can 
be,  from  poor  food  to  good.  A  young 
lady,  Miss  Alice  Hendricks,  employed 
at  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Race 
Streets,  Cincinnati,  O.,  says:  "  I  was 
variously  treated  for  my  nerves,  mus- 
cles, lungs,  etc.,  but  none  of  the  treat- 
ment gave  me  relief  from  the  pains. 

"  About  a  year  ago  my  appetite 
failed  completely,  and  I  began  to  have 
sinking  spells  similar  to  fainting ;  then 
I  took  all  manner  of  tonics  and  stimu- 
lants, but  they  were  of  no  effect.  I 
had  been  brought  to  quit  drinking 
coffee,  and  taking  Postum  Food  Coffee 
in  its  place,  and  gradually  began  to 
get  a  little  better. 

"  Someone  suggested  that  if  I  found 
Postum  Food  Coffee  so  beneficial  I 
had  better  use  Grape -Nuts  food,  as 
they  were  both  the  children  of  one 
brain.  I  commenced  on  Grape-Nuts 
food  for  breakfast,  having  Postum 
Food  Coffee  with  it.  I  found  the  food 
so  dainty,  delicious,  and  appetizing 
that  I  always  looked  forward  to  break- 
fast with  pleasure. 

"  Shortly  after  commencing  this  diet 
my  wretched  .pain  in  the  side  was 
greatly  improved,  and  now,  a  year 
later,  it  has  gone  entirely,  also  the 
sinking  spells;  in  fact,  my  pale  cheeks 
have  changed  to  pink,  I  have  gained 
back  more  than  the  twenty  pounds  I 
had  lost,  and  am  thoroughly  well  in 
every  way." 


Housekeeper's  Memoranda. 

For  the  present,  this  page  will  appear  in  this  position  in  each  issue  of  the  Macjazine. 


7o  Remove  Fresh  Tea  and  Coffee 
Stains.  —  Place  the  stained  linen  over 
a  large  bowl  and  pour  through  it  boil- 
ing water  from  the  teakettle,  held  at  a 
height  to  insure  force. 

To  Remove  Old  Tea  arid  Coffee  Stains. 

—  Soak  in  cold  water  first,  then  use 
boiling  water,  as  above. 

To  Remove  Cocoa  and  Chocolate  Stains. 

—  Use  cold  water  first,  then  boiling 
water,  as  above. 

To  Remove  Cla?'et  Stains  from  Tabic 
IJjien.  —  As  soon  as  possible  cover  the 
stains  with  salt ;  let  stand  a  few  min- 
utes, then  rinse  in  cold  water. 

To  Remove  Frmt  Stains.  —  Pour 
boiling  water  over  the  stained  surface. 
Arrange  the  cloth  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  water  passes  through  a  single 
thickness,  and  from  a  height  above  it. 

To  Remove   Obstinate  Fruit  Stains. 

—  Use  three  ounces  of  oxalic  acid  to 
one  pint  of  water.  Wet  the  stain  with 
the  solution,  place  over  a  kettle  of  hot 
water  in  the  steam  or  in  the  sunshine. 
Rinse  well  the  instant  the  stain  disap- 
pears ;  wet  the  stain  with  ammonia  to 
counteract  the  acid  remaining.  Then 
rinse  it  thoroughly  again. 

To  Remove  Blood  Stains.  —  Use 
clear,  cold  water  at  first,  then  soap  and 
watpr. 

To  Remove  Ink  Spots  from  Gingham. 

—  Wet  the  spots  with  milk,  and  cover 
them  with  common  salt.  Let  stand 
some  hours,  then  rinse  in  several 
waters. 

To  Remove  Inks  Spots. —  Put  one  or 
two  drops  of  oxalic  acid  on  the  spots, 
rinse  in  several  waters,  and  finally  in 
ammonia. 

To  Remove  Grass  Stairis.  —  Allow 
the  spots  to  remain  saturated  with 
alcohol  for  a  little  time,  then  wash  in 
clear  water. 

To  Ronove  Mildew.  —  Use  lemon 
juice  and  sunshine,  or,  if  deep  seated, 
soak  in  a  solution  of  one  tablespoonful 
of    chloride  of  lime  in  four  quarts  of 


cold  water  until  the  mildew  disappears. 
Rinse  several  times  in  clear  water. 

To  Remove  Red  Iro7i  Rust.  —  Cover 
the  spots  with  salt,  moisten  with  lemon 
juice,  let  stand  a  time,  adding  more 
salt  and  lemon.  If  not  successful  with 
these,  use  for  fast  colors  muriatic  acid. 
Spread  the  cloth  over  a  large  bowl  of 
hot  water,  touch  the  dry  spots  with  a 
drop  or  two  of  the  acid ;  when  the  rust 
disappears,  rinse  several  times  in  clear 
water,  and  then  in  water  in  which  there 
is  a  little  ammonia. 


NEW  COMMUNITIES. 

PREDICTION    OF    DR.    OGBORNE. 

"There  is  no  question  in  my  mind 
that  whole  communities,  who  now  suf- 
fer from  the  bad  effects  of  coffee, 
would  be  revolutionized,  if  they  knew 
of  the  actual  facts  regarding  the  use 
of  coffee,  and  the  help  that  could  be 
obtained  from  the  use  of  Postum  Cereal 
Food  Coffee.  In  my  own  case,  coffee 
produced  dizziness,  heart  palpitation, 
and  sallowness  of  complexion.  When 
I  abandoned  the  ordinary  coffee  and 
took  up  Postum  the  difficulties  were 
removed." — Rev.  W.  N.  Ogborne,  Ham- 
monton,  N.  J. 

Some  people,  when  trying  to  break 
off  the  coffee  habit,  feel  the  lack  of 
the  stimulant  so  much  that  they  mix 
half  coffee  and  half  Postum,  then  grad- 
ually reduce  the  amount  of  coffee  until 
they  drink  Postum  alone. 

Most  people  can  break  off  from  cof- 
fee at  once,  if  they  can  have  the  Pos- 
tum Food  Coffee,  for  the  taste  of  the 
two  is  so  much  alike  that  many  times 
the  change  is  not  noticed.  The  user 
invariably  improves  in  health,  and  in 
a  month's  time  shows  a  marked  change 
for  the  better. 


The 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  V. 


DECEMBER,  1900,  and  JANUARY,  1901, 


No.  4. 


Dining-room  Chairs 

Bv  Henrv  L.  Johnson 


AMERICANS     are     aptly    de- 

/  \    scribed     as    being    in    a    con- 

A.     JLstant    state    of    unrest.       This 

applies  not  only  to  conditions  of  home 

life,  but  to  business. 

We  are  told  that  in  England  one  can 
go  back  from  year  to  year  to  a  dealer 
in  wall  papers,  and  get  the  same  pat- 
terns ;  but  this  is  not  so  in  America. 
The  first  question  the  buyer  asks  is, 
"  What  have  you  got  that  is  new  ? " 
The  dealer's  greeting,  in  turn,  to  the 
manufacturer    is,    "  What    new    styles 


have  you  1  "  So  it  comes  about  that, 
no  matter  how  good  a  wall  paper,  a 
carpet,  or  a  piece  of  furniture  may 
be  made  this  year,  it  becomes  a  back 
number  next  year.  One  chair  manu- 
facturer complains  that  styles  are  just 
as  temporary  and  changeable  in  chairs 
as  in  bonnets. 

Yet  this  change  in  style  has  no  logi- 
cal basis.  One  does  not  buy  a  chair 
or  other  piece  of  furniture  for  a  day  or 
for  a  single  year's  use,  but  practically 
for  a  lifetime.     Therefore,  in  selecting 


I<2 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


dining-room  chairs  one  ought  not  to 
look  for  what  is  "the  latest."  The 
basis  of  selection  should  be  such  a 
style  and  finish  as  will  best  harmonize 
with  the  dining  table,  sideboard,  or 
woodwork  of  the  room  itself. 

So  far  as  present-day  styles  in  chairs 
are  concerned,  the  tendency  is  very 
strongly  toward  a  reproduction  of  Co- 
lonial patterns.  Chairs  are  now  made 
with  not  nearly  so  much  wood  as  a 
few  years  ago,  when  heavy  panelled 
backs  and  wide  wooden  frames  on  the 
seats  were  in  vogue.  The  most  unfort- 
unate, unworthy  production  of  Ameri- 
can manufacture  in  chairs  has  been  of 
the  type  just  described,  with  elaborate 
embossed  designs  on  the  panels  and 
on  every  conceivable  surface.  The  use 
of  elaborately  turned  spindles  and  legs 
has  also,  fortunately,  gone  by.     Some 


turned  work,  however,  such  as  is  shown 
in  one  of  our  illustrations  of  a  Dutch 
chair,  is  in  good  taste. 


Extremely  plain  but  good  proportioned  chair, 
costing  about  $3.00 

Five  ordinary  chairs  and  one  arm- 
chair comprise  the  usual  dining-room 
set.  In  some  custom-made  furniture 
the  hostess's  chair  is  made  two  inches 
higher  and  somewhat  narrower  than 
others.  Nearly  all  dining-room  chairs 
are  now  made  with  rush  bottoms  or  are 
upholstered,  in  leather,  and  the  best 
class  of  chairs  have  the  back  uphol- 
stered also.  Some  of  the  richest  and 
best  effects  are  produced  in  chairs  of 
very  simple  lines,  having  much  leather 
in  the  seat  and  backs  studded  with 
brass  or  leather-covered  nails. 

Not  only  do  the  styles  change  from 
year  to  year,  but  each  year  shows  some 
new  finish  in  the  lead.  This  year  it  is 
Golden  Oak.  Many  chairs  are  being 
finished  in  Flemish  Oak,  to  match  the 
dining  table  and  other,  pieces  of  furni- 
ture.    It  is  a  simple  matter  to  have  the 


Dining-room  Chairs 


153 


chairs  match  the  furniture  or  finish  of 
the  dining-room,  as  nearly  every  man- 
ufacturer or  dealer  can  readily  finish 
his  chairs  as  it  may  be  desired.  A 
drawer  from  the  sideboard  or  a  leaf 
from  the  dining  table  furnishes  all  that 
is  necessary  as  a  pattern  for  color  and 
finish. 

Nearly  all  heavy  dining  chairs  have 
casters  on  the  two  front  legs.  The 
tendency  has  been  to  make  the  seats 
too  small  and  the  backs  too  high,  while 
ease  and  comfort  ever  should  be  the 
prime  characteristics. 

The  illustrations  on  the  accompany- 
ing pages  show  some  present  styles 
of  chairs  which  are  sold  at  nearly  all 
the  larger  retail  stores.  These  chairs 
are  by  no  means  unusual  or  extreme 
in  any  way ;  but  they  are  given  as  ex- 
amples of  good,  durable  styles  and  of 
moderate  cost. 


A  style  often  finished  in  Flemish  Oak 


Bread  and  Bread-makin 


g 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 

Bread  is  the  staff  of  life,  but  bread  and  butter  is  a  s^old-headed  cane 


IN  every  part  of  the  world,  from 
the  beginning  of  recorded  time, 
bread  has  been  a  synonym  of  food. 
The  cry  of  the  starving  in  India,  the 
mob  in  France,  and  the  poor  in  Italy 
has  ever  been  for  bread.  The  reason 
for  this  is  obvious,  when  we  consider 
that  very  many  even  of  the  earlier  and 
cruder  forms  of  bread  were  made  from 
cereals  or  corn-plants,  as  millet,  oats, 
barley,  and  rye,  and  that  these  in  them- 
selves contain  all  the  elements  neces- 
sary for  the  growth  and  repair  of  the 
body,  and  in  very  nearly  the  proportion 
demanded  in  an  ideal  dietary.  At  the 
present  day,  throughout  the  civilized 
world,  wheat  is  known  to  be  the  grain 
that  contains  gluten  in  proportion  and 
quality  necessary  to  the  making  of  the 
most  perfect  bread. 

A  loaf  of  bread  at  least  four  thou- 
sand years  old,  a  part  of  which  was  in 
such  a  state  of  preservation  that  it  was 


possible  to  identify  barley  as  the  grain 
from  which  it  was  made,  was  lately 
found  in  Egypt.  From  records  and 
monuments  in  that  ancient  land,  we 
learn  that  the  grain  for  bread  was 
broken  by  pounding  and  that  it  was 
probably  baked  between  or  upon  hot 
stones.  The  children  of  Israel  ate 
leavened  bread  in  Egypt,  though  the 
Chinese  ha^  used  leavened  bread  long 
years  before  the  time  of  Moses  and 
the  exodus  from  Egypt.  The  ancient 
Greeks  cultivated  the  yeast  plant,  and 
in  excavations  at  Pompeii  an  oven  was 
found  containing  eighty-one  loaves  of 
bread  not  unlike  our  own.  The  older 
and  higher  the  civilization,  the  more 
advanced  was  the  art  of  bread-making. 
Four  hundred  years  ago  the  American 
Indian  was  just  in  the  infancy  of  the 
art,  and  the  wild  tribes  of  South  Africa, 
to-day,  have  progressed  no  farther. 
The  bread  of  the  ancients  was  made 


Bread  and   Bread-making 


55 


flat  and  thin,  as  thus  the  heat  could 
better  penetrate  the  heavy,  compact 
dough  ;  and  the  expression  "  to  break 
bread  "  was  from  the  actual  mode  of 
division.  Bourdeau  notes  that  our  rule 
of  politeness,  which  exacts  that  bread 
be  broken  at  table,  instead  of  cutting 
it,  is  only  the  tradition  of  a  very 
ancient  custom. 

Though  the  art  of  bread-making  is 
of  such  ancient  origin  and  the  oppor- 
tunity for  a  general  diffusion  of  knowl- 
edge has  been  so  great,  good  bread  is 
not  an  article  in  common  use.  In 
cities  abroad,  bread  is  not  baked  at 
home ;  and  in  this  country,  as  more 
and  more  work  is  carried  on  outside 
the  home  kitchen,  the  baking  of  bread 
is  sure  to  follow.  At  the  present  time 
one  cannot  secure  from  bakeries 
bread  and  rolls  made  from  quite  as 
good  materials,  or  baked  and  cooled 
quite  as  carefully,  as  it  is  possible  to 
provide  at  home.  In  general,  the 
bread  made  abroad,  on  account  of  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  loaf,  contains 
less  starch  in  a  crude  form  than  that 
which  we  may  call  the  American  loaf. 
While  the  foreign  loaf  is  not  acceptable 
to  the  average  American,  it  probably 
approaches  more  nearly  the  dietetic 
conditions  required  by  our  modern 
mode  of  life.  Just  how  far  the  conver- 
sion of  starch  into  dexstrose,  or  allied 
substances,  has  proceeded  in  the  crusty 
loaf  has  not  been  exactly  determined ; 
and  in  the  bread  of  the  future  chemical 
processes  may  be  found  by  which  the 
excess  of  starch  that  ordinary  bread 
contains  may  be  transformed  or  pre- 
sented in  a  form  less  taxing  to  the 
digestive  organs. 

The  process  of  making  bread  with 
yeast  is  one  of  the  most  fascinating  of 
studies  for  the  chemist   or  the    cook. 


And  the  more  the  cook  knows  of  the 
chemistry  of  bread-making,  and  the 
greater  the  skill  with  which  she  applies 
her  knowledge  to  the  practical  working- 
out  of  the  process,  the  greater  are  her 
chances  of  securing  a  perfect  loaf. 
Four  of  the  simplest  ingredients  in  the 
culinary  laboratory  enter  into  the  com- 
position of  a  loaf  of  bread  ;  yet  the 
changes  through  which  these  materials 
pass  before  a  finished  loaf  is  evolved 
are  the  most  complicated  in  all  cook- 
ery. 

What  is  Good  Bread 

Opinions  differ  as  to  just  what  prop- 
erties good  bread  should  possess. 
Some  wish  a  moist  crumb  and  tender 
crust,  others  a  dry  crumb  and  a  flinty 
crust.  But  there  are  certain  points 
upon  which  all  agree  ;  namely,  bread 
should  be  agreeable  in  smell  and  taste, 
while  it  should  be  light  and  porous, 
to  be  easily  penetrated  by  the  di- 
gestive fluids.  The  bubbles  of  the 
crumb  should  be  uniform  in  size  and 
small.  The  surface  should  rebound 
when  compressed,  and  the  loaf  should 
keep  in    good  condition  several  days. 

Ingredients  Used  in  Bread 

The  four  ingredients  that  enter  into 
a  loaf  of  bread  are  flour,  yeast,  salt, 
and  liquid.  Milk  or  water,  or  a  part  of 
each,  may  comprise  the  latter.  Bread 
made  with  milk  is  more  nutritious,  but 
it  dries  more  quickly  than  does  bread 
in  which  water  is  used.  The  texture 
of  milk  bread,  even  with  slight  knead- 
ing, is  velvety  and  pleasing.  Half 
milk  and  half  water  is  quite  generally 
used.  Water  bread,  without  shorten- 
ing, carefully  manipulated  gives  a  loaf 
of  nutty  flavor,  but  with  tough  crust. 
The  French  excel  in  the  production  of 


156 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


this  bread.  Water  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  shortening  to  the  pint  is 
more  generally  preferred  by  American 
housekeepers. 

Structure  of  a  Wheat  Grain 

1.  Wheat  grains  consist  of  an  outer 
covering,  largely  silica,  removed  before 
milling. 

2.  Three  layers  of  bran  coats  in  the 
form  of  cells,  containing  mineral  mat- 
ter, gluten,  oil,  etc. 

3.  A  layer  of  cells,  chiefly  gluten 
and  other  proteid  matter. 

4.  Centre  and  largest  part  of  the 
grain  made  up  of  cells,  of  which  starch 
is  the  chief  content. 

Starch  and  Gluten 

Mix  wheat  flour  and  water  to  form 

a  dough.     Let  stand  a  short  time,  then 

wash  it  on  a  sieve  over  a  pan  of  water. 

Let  the  water  settle ;  and,  when  it  is 


are  the  chief  constituents  of  flour,  and 
the  relative  proportion  of  these  two 
substances  determines  the  character  of 
the  tlour.  Gluten  gives  a  strong,  gray 
flour  of  slightly  bitter  taste,  which  will 
take  up  a  large  quantity  of  w^ater. 
Such  flour  "spends  well."'  Starch 
gives  a  more  delicate  white  flour  of 
sweet  taste,  which  takes  up,  relatively, 
a  small  quantity  of  water.  The  tena- 
cious, elastic  gluten  is  needed  in  yeast 
mixtures  to  hold  the  carbon  dioxide 
that  lifts  up  the  dough  and  makes  it 
light.  But  it  is  not  as  desirable  in 
cake  and  pastry,  where  tenderness  and 
delicacy  are  sought  for.  The  relative 
proportion  of  starch  and  gluten  in 
grains  depends  largely  upon  the  soil 
and  the  climate  in  which  the  grain  is 
grown.  Hard  spring  wheat,  planted 
in  the  spring  and  harvested  in  August 
or  early  September  in  Minnesota  and 
in  North  and  South  Dakota,  is  particu- 


Bread  Sticks  with  Pan.      Salad  Rolls.      Recipe,  page  179 


poured  off,  a  white  mass,  which,  when 
dried,  is  fine  as  dust,  is  found  in  the 
pan.  This  is  starch.  And  the  tough, 
gray,  elastic  mass  left  on  the  sieve, 
which  may  be  taken  up  in  the  hands 
and  pulled  like  candy,  is  gluten.    These 


larly  strong  in  gluten,  and  contains  a 
minimum  quantity  of  starch.  Flour 
made  from  such  wheat  is  designated 
as  bread  flour.  Winter  wheat  is  a 
softer  variety,  raised  in  the  Middle 
and  Southern   States.     It  is  planted  in 


Bread  and  Bread-makin 


g 


57 


the  fall,  and  harvested  in  the  following 
June  or  July.  Flour  made  from  this 
wheat  is  designated  as  pastry  flour,  as 
it  is  well  adapted  to  the  purpose  indi- 
cated by  the  name. 

When  to  use  Bread  and  when 
Pastry  Flour 

As  a  general  rule,  bread  flour  is 
indicated  in  recipes  where  yeast  is 
used,  and  pastry  flour  in  all  other 
cases.  Less  flour  to  a  given  quantity 
of  liquid  is  needed,  when  bread  flour 
is  used.  For  a  change,  it  is  occasion- 
ally advisable  to  use  pastry  flour  in 
bread-making.  It  gives  a  sweeter- 
tasting  loaf. 

How  to  distinguish  Bread  and 
Pastry  Flour 

Bread  flour  is  granular  to  the  touch. 
It  passes  readily  through  the  sieve :  a 
jar  will  send  it  through.  When  mixed 
into  a  dough,  it  takes  up  a  compara- 
tively large  quantity  of  moisture.  On 
the  other  hand,  pastry  flour  is  soft  and 
oily  to  the  touch.  Pressed  in  the 
hand,  it  keeps  its  shape,  showing  the 
impress  of  the  lines  of  the  hand.  It 
does  not  pass  so  readily  through  the 
sieve,  and  it  absorbs  a  comparatively 
small  amount  of  moisture. 

Milling  Methods 

The  old-fashioned  way  of  making 
flour  was  to  pulverize  the  wheat  in 
one  operation  through  mill-stones ; 
and  then  a  crude  separation  of  the 
flour  and  bran  and  other  dark  portions 
of  the  wheat  berry  was  made  by  re- 
volving reels  covered  with  what  is 
known  as  silk  bolting  cloth.  Nat- 
urally,  the.  separation   was    imperfect. 


and  much  of  the  brown  portion  re- 
mained in  the  flour. 

Modern  milling  is  what  is  known  as  a 
gradual  reduction  system,  whereby  the 
wheat  is  gradually  and  carefully  re- 
duced. The  wheat  is  run  through  six 
systems  of  rolls,  for  the  purpose  of 
loosening  the  middlings.  These  mid- 
dlings are  then  purified  by  means  of 
sieves  and  air-suction  machines,  which 
remove  all  the  brown  portion  of  the 
berry.  The  middlings  are,  after  puri- 
fication, reduced  to  flour. 

The  wheat  grain  is  thoroughly 
cleaned  and  scoured  before  the  flour- 
making  process  begins. 

Yeast  in  Bread-making 

Yeast  is  a  collection  of  living,  one- 
celled  organisms  that  partake  of  the 
nature  of  plant  rather  more  than  of 
animal  life.  These  organisms  may 
be  produced  by  cultivation.  In  a 
proper  environment  —  with  necessary 
warmth,  moisture,  and  complex  food 
to  feed  upon  —  these  microscopic 
fungi  bulge  a  little  upon  one  side. 
This  bulge  takes  on  an  oval  shape, 
and  soon  separates  from  the  parent 
cell  as  a  distinct  organism.  Other 
cells  quickly  follow  from  the  parent 
cell  and  from  the  new  cells  or  buds ; 
and  thus  the  yeast  plants  grow.  The 
little  yeast  plants  or  cells  are  vigorous 
and  tenacious  of  life,  living  under 
most  adverse  circumstances ;  but 
these  are  killed  on  exposure  to  a 
temperature  of  about  212  degrees  F. 
They  endure  cold  much  better,  as  life 
is  simply  suspended  in  a  temperature 
of  about  30  degrees  F.  The  most  fa- 
vorable temperature  for  their  growth  is 
between  65  degrees  and  75  degrees  F. 

A   cake   of   compressed    yeast,   one 


S8 


The   Boston   Cooking-School    Magazine 


of  the  best  forms  in  which  a  house- 
keeper can  secure  a  supply  of  yeast, 
is  a  collection  of  yeast  plants  massed 
together,  without  the  presence  of 
suitable  conditions  for  growth.  By 
the  exclusion  of  air  and  heat,  the  plants 
may  be  kept  for  some  days  alive  and  in 
vigorous  condition  for  future  growth. 

In  making  bread,  we  soften  the 
cake  in  liquid,  to  separate  the  plants, 
and  then  stir  them  into  the  flour. 
Salt  may  be  added  as  a  matter  of 
taste.  It  retards,  perhaps,  the  growth 
of  the  plant.  The  little  plants,  finding 
in  the  starch  and  gluten  of  the  flour 
a  complex  food  which  they  enjoy, 
begin  to  feed  and  grow  or  bud  ;  and 
chemical  changes  take  place.  Starch 
is    changed    to    sugar,    and    sugar    to 


alcohol  and  carbon  dioxide  (carbonic 
acid  gas).  The  gas,  in  its  efforts 
to  escape,  expands  the  tenacious  elas- 
tic cell  walls  of  gluten  in  which  it  is 
entangled,  and  lifts  up  the  dough.  If 
this  dough  be  subjected  to  heat  (212) 
degrees  F.  at  the  centre),  the  alcohol 
and  carbon  dioxide  will  be  driven  off, 
the  cell  walls  fixed,  and  sw^eet  bread 
produced.  But,  if  the  dough  be  left  to 
itself,  this  change,  which  is  called 
alcoholic  fermentation,  will  be  fol- 
lowed by  another  change.  The  al- 
cohol breaks  up  into  acetic  acid  and 
water ;  and,  if  baked,  the  resultant 
bread  will  be  sour. 

A  good  yeast  cake  is  of  a  Hght  even 
color.  There  is  an  absence  of  dark 
streaks  through  it. 


{Concluded  in  February-March  number.) 


A  New  Year's  Wish 

By  Kate  M.  Post 


Welcome,  New  Year !    What  gifts  do  you  bring 

To  my  lassie,  dainty  and  fair .? 
Nay,  bring  her  not  gold ;  for  that  she  has 

In  the  wealth  of  her  shining  hair. 

Do  you  bring  her  health  and  happiness, 
Such  treasures  as  all  may  desire  "i 

Or  jewels  and  silk  and  filmy  lace 
For  her  girlish  eyes  to  admire  ? 


Bring  any  or  all,  and  scatter  them 

At  the  feet  of  my  little  lass, 
But  bring  to  her  not  those  sorrows  deep 

That  imbitter  life  ere  they  pass. 

This  boon  I  ask  for  my  lassie  fair, — 
You  may  grant  it,  'tis  only  one, — 

Just  sadness  enough  to  shade  her  path 
From  the  dazzling  glare  of  the  sun. 


Cooking  for  a  Field  Hospital  in  War  Time 

By  Mary  A.  Livermore 


IT  was  the  last  of  April,  1863,  when 
the  steamer  "Omaha,"  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Sanitary  Commission, 
arrived  at  Young's  Point,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  opposite  Vicks- 
burg.  The  great  river  highway  had 
been  closed  to  navigation  by  the  South- 
ern Confederates,  and  it  was  the  pas- 
sion of  the  West  to  reopen  it.  This 
had  been  accomplished  by  the  forces 
under  General  Grant  as  far  as  Vicks- 
burg,  but  there  the  movement  was 
halted.  The  town  occupied  a  com- 
manding position  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  river,  which  bristled  with  batteries 
ten  miles  along  the  river  front,  and  tier 
above  tier  to  the  top  of  the  highest 
bluff.  The  victorious  Western  army 
could  make  no  farther  progress  down 
the  river  till  Vicksburg  consented  or 
was  conquered  ;  and  it  had  gone  into 
encampments,  wherever  it  could  find 
dry  land  in  the  "river-bottoms." 

Appalling  sickness  soon  appeared 
among  the  troops.  Their  unvaried 
diet  of  "hard  tack  and  salt  junk" 
brought  on  scorbutic  complaints.  Their 
persistence  in  drinking  the  pleasant 
"  seapage  water,"  which  they  obtained 
by  sinking  a  barrel  in  the  dropsical 
soil,  caused  dysenteric  and  typhoid 
ailments ;  while  every  breath  they  in- 
haled amid  the  pestilential  swamps 
was  laden  with  miasmatic  poison. 
When  at  last  General  Grant  announced 
that  only  33  per  cent,  of  his  army  was 
able  to  appear  at  parade,  both  the  gov- 
ernment and  the  Sanitary  Commission 
hastened  to  his  relief.  Every  North- 
western    State     promptly    despatched 


boats  to  the  scene  of  suffering,  laden 
with  shipments  of  sanitary  supplies ; 
and  the  first  arrival  of  this  beneficent 
little  fleet  was  the  "  Omaha,"  sent  by 
the  State  of  Illinois. 

It  was  packed  with  an  assortment  of 
stores  that  comprised  almost  every- 
thing necessary  in  hospital  relief, —  po- 
tatoes, onions,  and  other  vegetables, 
with  sauer-kraut,  for  the  scorbutic  pa- 
tients, who  constituted  a  majority  of 
the  sick.  Farina,  corn-starch,  crackers, 
lemons,  oranges,  pearl-barley,  tea,  sugar, 
condensed  milk,  extracts  of  beef,  des- 
iccated vegetables,  codfish,  canned 
fruits,  jellies,  and,  in  short,  whatever 
might  be  needed  for  sick  and  wounded 
men.  Accompanying  this  immense 
shipment  were  eminent  physicians  and 
surgeons,  and  men  and  women  of  ex- 
ecutive ability  who  attended  to  the 
safe  transmission  of  the  valuable  sup- 
plies and  to  their  equitable  distribu- 
tion. Some  three  or  four  nurses  who 
were  returning  to  their  work  from  a 
brief  furlough,  with  two  men  and  two 
women  officially  connected  with  the 
Sanitary  Commission,  constituted  a 
special  corps  of  relief  that  was  to 
make  itself  useful  in  any  way  among 
the  sick  and  wounded. 

Most  of  the  hospitals  at  Young's 
Point  were  regimental ;  for  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  place  was  only  temporary, 
and  the  establishment  of  a  permanent 
general  hospital  was  not  attempted. 
There  were  several  field  hospitals 
made  by  pitching  tents  in  a  row,  each 
one  opening  into  the  other ;  but  they 
were  noisome  and  desolate.     Nearly  a 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


hundred  and  fifty  men  were  accommo- 
dated in  these,  all  sick  with  diseases 
that  had  assumed  a  chronic  form.  They 
were  to  be  sent  North  in  a  few  days, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  hospital  steamer 
"  City  of  Memphis  "  ;  and  this  seemed 
to  furnish  an  excuse  for  an  utter  neg- 
lect of  them.  Their  only  nurses  were 
convalescent  soldiers,  nearly  as  feeble 
as  themselves.  Their  surgeon  lacked 
force  and  vital  sympathy  with  his  pa- 
tients ;  and  their  food  was  the  regular 
army  ration,  whatever  that  might  hap- 
pen to  be.  The  women  of  the  little 
party  immediately  decided  to  devote 
themselves  to  these  hopeless  invalids 
while  they  waited  the  arrival  of  the 
hospital  steamer,  and  forthwith  we 
hunted  up  the  surgeon. 

He  indicated  the  special  diet  neces- 
sary to  the  various  patients,  and  put 
to  our  service  the  negroes,  who  had 
cooked  for  the  men,  and  his  "  conven- 
iences for  cooking."  He  must  cer- 
tainly have  meant  /;?conveniences ;  for 
there  was  no  kitchen,  and  only  two 
large  broken  stoves,  and  three  or  four 
portable  soup-kettles,  on  wheels,  with 
small  furnaces  and  pipes  attached. 
The  negroes  cooked  by  huge  fires  of 
Cottonwood  logs,  sufficient  to  roast  an 
ox.  We  systematized  the  work,  as- 
signing two  women  to  make  and  dis- 
pense nourishing  soup.  Two  others 
took  charge  of  the  gruel,  a  third  de- 
tachment was  to  minister  to  those 
afflicted  with  scurvy,  who  were  to  be 
treated  to  onions,  sauer-kraut,  and  other 
specifics  for  this  disease,  a  fourth  was 
to  make  "  egg-nog  "  and  lemonade  for 
those  who  might  have  it,  while  I  was 
to  make  tea  and  toast  and  butter 
crackers.  Having  seen  the  boilers 
filled  with  water  and  the  fires  kindled 
underneath,    patched    up    the    broken 


stoves  so  that  they  could  be  used, 
and  sent  an  order  to  our  boat  for  the 
materials  needed  in  cooking,  we  went 
into  the  hospitals  to  investigate  the 
men. 

They  were  hushed  to  the  stillness  of 
death.  They  had  been  sick  a  long 
while,  and  had  so  lost  mental  stamina 
that  they  did  not  attempt  to  brush 
away  the  flies  that  swarmed  over  them. 
They  needed  to  be  roused  by  a  gen- 
uine sensation,  to  be  strengthened  by 
the  tonic  of  a  great  hope.  So,  taking 
a  stand  in  the  centre  of  the  tents,  I 
brought  out  the  teapot,  spirit  lamp,  and 
bottle  of  alcohol,  which  were  a  part  of 
my  personal  outfit,  and  proceeded  to 
make  tea  right  before  their  eyes,  all  the 
while  talking  in  a  loud,  cheerful  tone 
of  the  change  that  awaited  them : 
*'  Boys,  do  you  know  you  are  going  up 
the  river  to  St.  Louis  on  a  hospital 
steamer  in  a  few  days  ?  Why,  next 
week  at  this  time  you  will  be  almost 
home ! "  That  roused  them.  The 
words  "  almost  home "  was  the  open 
sesame  that  waked  them  up.  I  con- 
tinued :  "  We  women  are  going  to  stay 
with  you  until  you  leave.  I  am  going 
to  make  tea  for  you  in  this  teapot, — 
d'ye  see  it? — with  milk  and  white 
sugar  in' it.  And  we  have  toast  for 
you,  and  soup  and  gruel,  and  every 
sort  of  good  thing." 

After  the  first  shock  of  surprise,  the 
poor  fellows  gathered  their  wits  and 
precipitated  questions  upon  me  in  a 
slow,  sick,  drawling,  semi-articulate 
fashion,  a  dozen  at  a  time  :  "  Where'd 
you  come  from  ? "  "  Who  told  you 
so  ?  "  "  What  you  down  here  for  ? " 
I  answered  them  as  they  were  asked, 
all  at  once,  and  proceeded  with  my 
preparations,  which  were  watched  by 
fifty  pairs  of  eyes.     When  at  last  I  set 


Cooking  for  a  Field  Hospital  in  War  Time 


i6i 


the  tin  cup  of  tea  on  a  camp-stool, 
moistened  and  buttered  the  crackers, 
which  the  negro  women  had  toasted  at 
their  log  fires,  and  added  these  to  the 
tea,  the  curiosity  of  the  onlookers 
became  intense.  They  raised  them- 
selves on  their  elbows  and  craned 
their  necks  to  see  who  was  to  be  fav- 
ored with  this  "  special  diet."  Crowd- 
ing his  knapsack  and  pillow  behind 
him,  I  propped  up  the  man  in  his  bed 
who  was  nearest  me  and  placed  the 
food  before  him.  As  he  tasted,  a 
sickly  smile  flickered  over  his  ghastly 
face,  which  was  succeeded  by  a  fit  of 
hysterical  weeping.  "  It  tastes  just 
like  my  wife  made  it !  "  was  his  tearful 
commendation. 

"Tea!  tea!  tea!  with  white  sugar 
and  milk  in  it !  "  was  the  cry  that  now 
came  up  from  nearly  every  bed. 
"  Don't  let  that  ere  teapot  o'  yourn  git 
played  out  before  you  git  'round 
here!"  entreated  a  Missourian,  at  the 
farther  end  of  the  hospital.  I  ex- 
plained to  him  that  there  was  no 
"play-out"  to  the  teapot,  that  I  had 
alcohol  and  tea,  with  sugar  and  milk, 
sufficient  for  weeks,  and  that  all  were 
to  be  served  as  fast  as  possible.  Soon 
the  negro  women  brought  in  great 
pails  of  soup  and  gruel,  which  my 
associates  dealt  out  economically  in 
tin  cups,  out  of  regard  for  the  weak 
stomachs  and  uncertain  appetites  to 
which  they  were  catering.  Then  came 
potatoes  roasted  in  the  hot  ashes,  raw 
onions  and  sauer-kraut  for  those 
afflicted  with  scurvy,  which  were  de- 
voured almost  ravenously.  How  the 
men  brightened  under  our  ministra- 
tions !  How  they  tried  to  express 
their  thanks,  and  wept  when  they 
meant  to  laugh  !  It  paid  us  for  our 
weary  work  that  hot  afternoon,  to  wit- 


ness the  improvement  wrought  in  the 
patient  fellows  by  our  meagre  service. 

A  little  stir  of  gladness  and  expec- 
tancy greeted  us  when  we  entered  the 
hospital  next  morning,  some,  too  weak 
to  speak,  smiling  their  welcome.  Four 
of  the  beds  were  empty,  their  occu- 
pants having  passed  away  during  the 
night.  And  there  were  others  who 
had  not  waked,  and  whose  sleep  knew 
no  waking.  We  surprised  ourselves 
by  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which 
we  prepared  breakfast,  and  were 
greatly  aided  by  the  negro  women, 
who  caught, the  contagion  of  our  in- 
terest and  became  alert  and  deft- 
handed.  We  added  to  our  bill  of  fare 
delicate  preparations  of  farina  and 
corn-starch,  serving  them  with  sugar 
and  milk,  while  for  a  few  of  the  more 
vigorous  we  prepared  egg-nog  and 
picked-up  codfish.  We  found  by  night 
that  we  were  running  a  "  special  diet  " 
kitchen  famously,  considering  our 
poverty  of  utensils  and  our  abundance 
of  inconveniences.  We  gave  our 
patients  three  meals  that  day  and  the 
two  days  following,  and  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  fourth  day  were  gladdened 
by  the  sight  of  the  "  City  of  Memphis," 
which  slowly  steamed  to  the  landing. 

The  men  were  in  much  better  condi- 
tion for  transference  to  the  steamer 
than  when  we  took  them  in  charge 
four  days  previous,  and  as  rapidly  as 
possible  the  exchange  was  made. 
There  they  were  given  a  warm  bath, 
their  hair-cut,  and  fresh,  clean  gar- 
ments took  the  place  of  the  filthy  ones 
in  which  they  were  clad.  A  smile 
stole  to  their  faces  as  they  were  lifted 
into  sweet,  clean  beds,  and  from  scores 
of  palid  lips  came  the  outspoken  satis- 
faction :  "  Oh,  this  is  good  !  This  is 
Uke  home !  " 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing 

By  M.  C.  Limerick  and  L.  R.  Balderston 
Article  No.  2 


THE  BED.— Wooden  bed- 
steads should  not  be  used 
for  the  sick,  when  any- 
thing else  can  be  obtained.  The 
best  beds  are  made  entirely  of  metal, 
iron  or  brass,  with  a  woven  wire 
spring.  These  have  two  advantages, 
cleanliness  and  lightness.  A  bed 
should  be  no  heavier  than  is  neces- 
sary for  strength.  Bedsteads  should 
be  on  casters,  so  as  to  be  easily 
moved.  The  proper  dimensions  for 
a  bed  in  the  sick-room  are  six  and 
a  half  feet  long,  three  feet  wide,  and 
two  or,  at  most,  two  and  a  half  feet 
high.  If  it  is  too  wide,  the  nurse 
will  be  unable  to  reach  the  patient 
without  getting  on  the  bed  herself, 
which  is  always  objectionable.  If  too 
high,  it  increases  the  difficulty  of 
raising  the  patient,  and  makes  the 
effort  harder  for  convalescents  to  get 
in  and  out. 

The  Mattress. —  Over  the  wire 
springs  w'ill  be  placed  a  mattress. 
Should  there  be  trouble  with  the  mat- 
tress sliding  over  the  spring,  it  may 
be  fastened  by  sewing  pieces  of  tape 
at  the  corners  and  tying  to  the  bed. 
The  mattress  should  be  protected  for 
cleanliness,  comfort,  and  •  economy. 
A  rubber  sheet  or  an  oilcloth  may  be 
used  for  the  purpose.  In  the  absence 
of  these  a  blanket  may  be  used. 
There  should  be  two ;  for,  if  used, 
they  must  be  kept  clean  and  be 
frequently  aired.  Newspapers  can 
always  be  obtained ;  and  they  are  the 


more  sanitary,  as  their  abundance  per- 
mits frequent  changes.  They  absorb 
moisture,  and  can  be  burned  after 
using. 

Sheets. —  Cotton  is  better  material 
for  sheets  than  linen,  except,  per- 
haps, in  very  hot  weather.  Linen, 
being  a  good  conductor  of  heat  and 
a  rapid  absorber  of  moisture,  has  the 
tendency  to  chill  the  surface  of  the 
body.  Cotton  does  not  conduct  heat 
so  freely,  and,  consequently,  is  safer 
for  use  of  the  sick.  Sheeting  comes 
in  widths  adapted  to  beds  of  different 
sizes.  Whatever  the  width,  the  length 
of  the  sheet  should  exceed  it  by  three 
quarters  of  a  yard.  There  should  not 
be  a  seam  in  the  middle. 

Making  the  Bed. —  In  making  the 
bed,  spread  the  lower  sheet  smoothly 
and  tightly  over  the  mattress,  tuck- 
ing it  in  securely  on  all  sides.  If  the 
bed  is  being  prepared  for  a  long  oc- 
cupancy, the  sheet  may  be  made  more 
firm  by  fastening  with  safety  pins  to 
the  mattress. 

Next  comes  the  rubber  sheet,  oil- 
cloth, or  newspapers,  covered  by  a 
second  folded  sheet  or  a  narrower 
"  draw-sheet."  The  latter,  as  its  name 
implies,  may  be  easily  drawn  from 
under  the  patient  and  changed ;  and, 
again,  it  often  helps  in  lifting  or  draw- 
ing the  patient.  The  draw-sheet  is  a 
single  sheet  folded  in  half  crosswise, 
allowing  the  seams  to  come  under  the 
patient's  head. 

The  upper  clothing  should  be  enough 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing 


163 


for  warmth,  but  no  more.  There  will 
be,  first,  the  upper  sheet,  tucked  in  well 
at  the  foot,  that  it  may  not  be  pulled 
out  of  place,  but  left  long  enough  to 
turn  down  for  some  little  distance 
over  the  blankets.  Blankets  of  good 
quality  are  the  best  covering,  being 
warm  and  not  weighty.  Several  thin 
coverings  will  be  warmer  than  a  single 
one  of  equal  weight,  because  of  the 
non-conducting  air  enclosed  between 
them.  Eider-down  quilts  are  light 
and  soft,  but  cannot  be  well  cleaned 
or  disinfected.  A  sheet  is  better 
than  a  counterpane.  If  sheets  and 
blankets  are  too  long,  bring  the  sur- 
plus down  at  the  foot  of  the  bed. 
Do  not  tuck  them  in  so  tight  that  they 
draw;  and,  again,  do  not  let  them 
hang  over  the  foot  of  the  bed,  as  they 
are  a  heavy  weight  on  the  feet. 

To  CHANGE  Bedding. —  Before  be- 
ginning to  change  bed  or  body  linen, 
the  nurse  should  see  that  everything 
needed  is  at  hand  and  ready.  Let 
the  clothing  be  thoroughly  aired  and 
warmed.  Move  the  patient  to  one 
side  of  the  bed,  loosen  the  upper  bed 
clothing  and  the  under  sheet.  Roll 
or  fold  the  soiled  sheets  backward  and 
forward  (fan  fashion)  lengthwise  from 
the  edge  of  the  bed  farthest  from  the 
patient,  till  it  reaches  him.  The  clean 
sheet,  previously  rolled  or  folded  in 
the  same  way,  is  then  spread  over  the 
space  from  which  the  first  was  taken, 
until  the  two  rolls  or  folds  lie  side  by 
side.  The  patient  may  be  lifted  or 
turned  over  on  the  clean  sheet,  the 
soiled  one  being  removed,  and  the 
rest  of  the  sheet  spread  and  tucked  in. 
If  it  is  not  advisable  to  rnove  the 
patient,  even  from  one  side  of  the  bed 
to  the  other,  the  mattress  may  be 
pressed    down,   while    the    clean    and 


soiled  sheets  are  together  gradually 
worked  under  his  body.  The  head 
and  feet  can  be  slightly  raised  to  allow 
folds  to  pass.  A  draw-sheet  would  be 
changed  as  an  under  sheet. 

To  change  the  upper  sheet,  free  the 
clothes  at  the  foot  of  the  bed.  Then 
the  spread  is  removed,  and  the  clean 
sheet  spread  outside  of  all  the  clothes, 
with  a  blanket  over  it,  and  tucked  in 
securely  before  removing  the  soiled 
set.  Finally  slip  these  from  under  the 
clean  sheet,  and  take  the  blanket  to 
the  air.  See  that  the  blankets  are 
made  smooth  and  straight.  If  they 
are  not  wide  enough  to  tuck  in  well  at 
the  sides,  the  upper  blanket  may  be 
laid  on  across  the  others.  Otherwise 
they  will  all  be  dragged  off  on  one 
side  when  the  patient  turns.  If  only 
one  clean  sheet  can  be  used,  let  it  be 
the  one  on  which  the  patient  Hes. 
Sheets  should  be  changed  frequently, 
at  least  once  a  day,  if  only  to  be  aired 
and  used  again. 

The  nurse  must  guard  against  ex- 
posure or  chill  to  the  patient,  and  a 
blanket  should  be  used  over  the 
patient  even  in  summer. 

In  case  of  a  fractured  limb,  one 
person  must  support  the  limb  above 
and  below  the  fracture,  taking  care 
to  raise  it  gently. 

Pillows. —  Be  especially  generous 
with  pillow-cases.  Have  clean  ones 
often.  When  arranging  the  pillows, 
the  head  must  be  lifted  and  supported 
by  the  nurse's  arm,  her  hand  support- 
ing the  back  while  with  the  other  hand 
the  pillow  is  turned.  The  lower  pil- 
low is  brought  down  under  the 
shoulders  to  support  the  back.  The 
patient  should  be  permitted  to  suit 
himself  in  arranging  the  pillows,  as 
every  one  has  a  particular  way  of  his 


164 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


own.  A  pillow  should  never  be 
shaken  on  the  bed.  The  upper  one 
should  be  removed  and  shaken,  then 
the  second  one  removed  and  replaced 
by  a  fresh  one.  Then  lay  the  patient 
back  gently.  Do  not  let  his  head 
drop  with  a  jerk. 

Propping  in  Bed. —  To  prop  up  a 
patient  with  pillows,  first  see  that  one 
is  pushed  well  down  under  and  against 
the  small  of  the  back.  Then  put  each 
additional  pillow  behind  the  last. 
Bed-rests  may  be  purchased;  but,  for 
a  temporary  use,  a  straight-backed 
chair  turned  upside  down  is  a  very 
good  substitute. 

Changing  Body  Clothing. —  The 
night-gown  and  under-shirt  should  be 
loosened  at  the  neck  and  wrists  (if 
fastened),  and  slipped  up  under  the 
patient,  until  near  the  shoulders.  The 
arm  now  may  be  easily  removed  from 
the  soiled  garments,  and  the  fresh 
garments  slipped  over  the  head.  The 
clean  garment  should  be  ready  to  be 
slipped  on  the  bare  arm  as  soon  as 
the  soiled  one  is  removed.  Put  the 
arm  into  the  sleeve  by  drawing  it  up 
from  the  bottom  of  the  night-gown,  and 
then  into  the  sleeve.  Slip  the  clean 
gown  over  the  head  the  same  way  as 
the  soiled  one,  always  remembering 
to  lay  the  head  down  gently.  Then 
go  to  the  other  side  of  the  bed  and 
remove  the  soiled  clothing  and  slip  on 
the  clean.  Draw  the  clothes  down 
smooth  and  straight.  If  the  garments 
are  opened  down  the  front,  they  will 
be  easier  to  change.  In  cases  where 
the  patient  is  very  weak,  slit  the  gar- 
ments down  the  back,  draw  the  arms 
into  the  sleeves,  and  leave  the  back 
without  clothing.  When  one  side  is 
injured  or  paralyzed,  the  clothes  should 
be  taken  off  the  sound  side  firsts  and 


put  on  the  injured  side  first.  This 
will  save  the  patient  unnecessary  pain. 

Convalescent's  Wrap. —  The  Night- 
ingale wrap  will  be  found  very  useful, 
when  the  patient  is  able  to  sit  up  in 
bed.  It  is  a  garment  simply  made 
and  easily  adjusted.  It  requires  two 
yards  of  flannel  of  ordinary  width. 
Cut  a  straight  slit,  six  inches  deep,  in 
the  middle  of  one  side  :  turn  back  the 
points  thus  made  for  the  corners.  The 
points  at  the  unslit  side  are  turned 
back  for  cuffs.  They  may  be  tied  at 
the  edges  with  ribbon  or  fastened  with 
a  button  and  buttonhole.  It  may  be 
fastened  in  the  same  way  down  the 
front.  The  edges  of  the  flannel  may 
be  bound  with  ribbon  or  braid.  It 
requires  no  effort  on  the  part  of  the 
patient  to  put  on  this  wrap,  so  it  is  to 
be  preferred  to  the  usual  dressing- 
sack. 

Pads. —  Pads  to  relieve  pressure  are 
made  of  cotton  batting,  horse-hair, 
straw,  or  even  a  sheet  folded  into  a 
circular  pad  (having  a  hole  in  the  cen- 
tre), and  wound  with  a  bandage  to 
keep  its  place. 

Bed  Sores. — Bed  sores  appear  most 
frequently  upon'  the  lower  part  of  the 
back,  the  hips,  shoulders,  elbows,  or 
heels,  but  may  develop  wherever  the 
conditions  are  favorable.  They  are 
frequently  occasioned  by  bad  nursing. 
A  good  nurse  can  usually  avoid  their 
formation.  They  are  more  easily  pre- 
vented than  cured.  Special  attention 
must  be  given  to  emaciated  patients, 
and  in  cases  of  paralysis,  fevers,  and 
surgical  cases,  where  motion  is  re- 
stricted. Signs  of  bed  sores  are  first 
redness,  then  a  tingling  sensation  in 
parts  affected.  To  avoid  them,  always 
have  the  bed  clothing  dry  and  smooth, 
the  patient's  skin  clean.     Also  relieve. 


Some  Duties  of  a  Waitress 


165 


as  far  as  possible,  any  local  pressure. 
Bathe  the  back  or  parts  affected  twice 
a  day  with  soap  and  water.  Wipe  dry 
and  rub  with  alcohol  or  brandy. 
Dust  the  parts  with  a  fine  powder  to 
absorb  moisture.  Lycopodium  powder 
is  good,  but  has  the  disadvantage  of 
staining  the  clothing.  After  the  skin 
is  broken,  the  sore  should  be  treated 
by  the  physician.  The  use  of  spirits 
is  usually  discontinued,  as  it  causes 
pain.  Bed  sores,  if  not  treated,  often 
penetrate  the  deeper  tissues  even  to 
the  bone. 

Do  not  allow  the  patient  to  lie  too 
long  in  one  place.  If  paralyzed,  roll 
him  over  and  place  pillows  at  his 
back.     Always    turn    the    mattress    as 


soon  as  the  patient  is  able  to  be  out 
of  bed.  If  it  be  necessary  to  lift  a 
helpless  patient,  it  is  better  to  have 
some  one  assist,  as  the  strain  is  too 
great  for  one  alone.  Clasp  hands  as 
smoothly  as  possible  and  place  hands 
and  arms  under  the  shoulders  and  hips, 
then  move  from  one  side  to  the  other. 
A  second  method  is  to  move  draw- 
sheet,  pulling  it  by  the  corners.  To 
move  a  patient  from  one  bed  to 
another,  pin  a  stout  rubber  cloth  to 
the  bed  from  which  you  wish  to  move 
your  patient,  letting  it  lap  over  on  to 
the  other,  so  as  to  cover  the  interven- 
ing crack  and  give  a  level  surface, 
across  which  he  may  be  drawn  by 
means  of  the  sheet  on  which  he  lies. 


Some  Duties  of  a  Waitress 

By   Catherine  J.  Coolidge 
Part  VI 


Cleaning  Silver 

THE  methods  of  cleaning 
silver  satisfactorily  are  as 
numerous   as    roses    in  June. 

In  the  first  place,  it  might  be  said 
that  silver  should  be  cleaned  as  sel- 
dom as  possible,  the  frequency  depend- 
ing largely  on  the  daily  care. 

The  gradual  wear  of  continual  use, 
and  mere  washing  and  wiping,  are  con- 
siderable ;  and,  when  the  rubbing  with 
cleaning  powders  is  added  to  that,  we 
wonder  there  is  any  "heirloom  "  silver 
left. 

If  the  silver  is  carefully  washed  and 
wiped  according  to  the  above  direc- 
tions, and  then  occasionally  polished 
with  a  chamois,  the  "cleanings"  need 


not  be  frequent.  If  silver  tarnishes 
quickly,  the  housewife  should  look  to 
her  traps  and  furnace,  because  this 
rapid  discoloration  is  a  pretty  good 
indication  of  the  presence  of  noxious 
gases. 

One  of  the  best  ways  of  cleaning 
large  pieces  of  silver  that  are  cov- 
ered with  a  great  amount  of  ornamen- 
tation, is  to  place  them  in  a  kettle  of 
warm  soda  water  and  bring  them  gradu- 
ally to  the  boiUng-point.  Line  the  kettle 
with  pieces  of  cloth,  and  lay  pieces  of 
cloth  between  the  silver.  Rinse  in 
clear  hot  water,  and  wipe  with  soft 
towels.  Polish  with  chamois.  This 
method  has  been  highly  recommended 
by  a  friend. 

It  might  be  well  just  here  to  caution 


i66 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


the  waitress  against  using  too  heavy 
pressure  when  rubbing  the  silver ;  for 
—  especially  if  it  is  old  —  it  can  be 
easily  bent  and  misshapen. 

A  very  satisfactory  method  of  clean- 
ing silver  is  as  follows  :  Rub  the  article 
all  over  with  alcohol,  and  polish  with 
dry  electro-silicon  or  silver  white,  ap- 
plied with  a  piece  of  soft  old  damask, 
or  with  the  silver  brush,  when  the 
pieces  are  ornamented.  Polish  with 
clean  old  damask,  and,  finally,  with 
chamois.  Pieces  of  silver  that  are 
seldom  used  should  be  wrapped  in 
cottoji  (Canton  flannel)  cases,  never  in 
flannel  or  other  woollens,  because  they 
cause  it  to  tarnish.  The  same  may  be 
applied  to  steel  knife  blades.  Woollens 
cause  them  to  rust,  probably  by  ab- 
sorbing moisture. 

A  very  simple  but  serviceable  knife- 
case  is  shown  in  the  diagram. 


1   ^ 

b 

1 

/ 

1 
1 

Fold  the  edge,  <7,  b^  over  the  knives, 
roll  the  case  together,  and  tie  with  the 
braid.  This  is  a  compact  method  of 
packing  and  keeping  extra  knives. 

Care  of  Salt  Cups,  Sugar 
Bowls,  etc. 

Salt  cups,  sugar  bowls,  etc.,  should 
be  washed  at  least  once  a  week.  The 
most  difficult  pieces  to  clean   are  the 


oil  and  vinegar  cruets.  Patience  and 
perseverance  are  essential  to  success  in 
making  these  clean  and  bright. 


To  clean  an  Oil  Cruet 

]\Iake  a  solution  of  hot  w^ater  and 
washing  soda  in  the  proportions  of  one 
cup  of  water  and  a  piece  of  soda  the 
size  of  an  English  walnut.  Let  the 
solution  cool  somew^hat,  and  rinse 
the  cruet  with  one-half  of  it,  shaking 
it  vigorously,  so  that  the  water  wdll 
touch  every  part  of  the  glass.  Empty 
the  greasy  water,  add  the  remainder  of 
the  solution  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
rice.  Shake  vigorously  for  several 
minutes,  then  pour  off  the  water  with- 
out removing  the  rice. 

Rinse  with  two  changes  of  w^arm 
suds,  pouring  out  the  rice  with  the 
second  one.  Finally,  rinse  with  clear 
water. 

All  the  rinsing  should  be  done  by 
pouring  the  water  into  the  cruet,  where 
it  is  to  be  well  shaken.  Polish  the 
cruet  inside  and  out  wath  a  soft  towel. 

The  only  virtue  of  the  rice  is  a 
mechanical  one.  It  produces  friction 
on  the  glass  in  spots  which  could  not 
be  otherwise  reached. 

In  cleaning'  a  vinegar  cruet,  follow 
the  same  plan  as  for  the  oil  cruet, 
omitting,  however,  the  soda  solution. 
Vinegar  frequently  leaves  a  dark 
brow^n  ring,  often  a  series  of  rings  on 
the  cruet ;  and  these  can  be  removed 
only  by  energetic  shaking  of  the  suds 
and  rice.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  invert 
the  cruet  while  shakins:  it. 


Selected  Verse 


The  First  Christmas 

Sing  soft  thy  praise,  thou  shepherd  seers, 
The   Christ-child   sleeps    upon    the    mother 
breast  1 
Bend  low  thy  heads,  O  sages  old  ! 
The  King  of  whom  the  prophets  told 

Brings  "  peace  on  earth,  good  will  to  men," 
and  rest ; 
And  faith  in  life's  eternal  years. 

O  Child  of  holy  dreaming  ways  I 

O  Child  of  hope,  and  faith's  supernal  cheer  I 
Thy  birth  has  hushed  the  voice  of  pain ; 
The  day  breaks  glad  across  the  plain  ! 

Our   Christ  is   born,  the   King  of  kings   is 
here, 
This  morn  of  morns,  this  day  of  days ! 

William  Moore. 


Christmas  in  England 

Heap  on  more  wood !     The  wind  is  chill ; 
But,  let  it  whistle  as  it  will. 
We'll  keep  our  Christmas  merry  still. 
Each  age  has  deemed  the  new-born  year 
The  fittest  time  for  festal  cheer. 


And  well  our  Christian  sires  of  old 

Loved  when  the  year  its  course  had  rolled, 

And  brought  blithe  Christmas  back  again. 

With  all  his  hospitable  train. 

Domestic  and  religious  rite 

Gave  honor  to  the  holy  night. 

On  Christmas  eve  the  bells  were  rung ; 

On  Christmas  eve  the  mass  was  sung; 

That  only  night,  in  all  the  year. 

Saw  the  stoled  priest  the  chalice  rear. 

The  damsel  donned  her  kirtle  sheen ; 

The  hall  was  dressed  with  holly  green  ; 

Forth  to  the  wood  did  merry  men  go, 

To  gather  in  the  mistletoe. 

Then  opened  wide  the  baron's  hall 

To  vassal,  tenant,  serf,  and  all. 

All  hailed,  with  uncontrolled. delight 
And  general  voice,  the  happy  night 
That  to  the  cottage,  as  the  crown. 
Brought  tidings  of  salvation  down. 


The  fire,  with  well-dried  logs  supplied. 

Went  roaring  up  the  chimney  wide  ; 

The  huge  hall-table's  oaken  face, 

Scrubbed  till  it  shone  the  day  to  grace, 

Bore  there  upon  its  massive  board 

No  mark  to  part  the  squire  and  lord. 

Then  was  brought  in  the  lusty  brawn. 

By  old  blue-coated  serving-man  ; 

Then  the  grim  boar's  head  frowned  on  high, 

Crested  with  bays  and  rosemary. 

The  wassail  round  in  good  brown  bowls. 
Garnished  with  ribbons,  blithely  trowls. 
There  the  huge  surloin  reeked.     Hard  by 
Plum  porridge  sfood,  and  Christmas  pie ; 
Nor  failed  old  Scotland  to  produce 
At  such  high-tide  her  savory  goose. 
Then  came  the  merry  masquers  in, 
And  carols  roared  with  blithesome  din. 
If  unmelodious  was  the  song, 
It  was  a  hearty  note  and  strong. 

England  was  merry  England  when 

Old  Christmas  brought  his  sports  again. 

'Twas  Christmas  broached  the  mightiest  ale  ; 

'Twas  Christmas  told  the  merriest  tale ; 

A  Christmas  gambol  oft  could  cheer 

The  poor  man's  heart  through  half  the  year. 

Still  linger  in  our  northern  clime 

Some  remnants  of  the  good  old  time ; 

And  still,  wdthin  our  valleys  here. 

We  hold  the  kindred  title  dear. 

Even  when  perchance  its  far-fetched  claim 

To  southern  ear  sounds  empty  name. 

Scott. 


Evening 

I  know  the  night  is  near  at  hand. 
The  mists  lie  low  on  hill  and  bay, 

The  autumn  sheaves  are  dewless,  dry ; 
But  I  have  had  the  day. 

Yes,  I  have  had,  dear  Lord,  the  day : 
When  at  thy  call  I  have  the  night, 

Brief  be  the  twilight  as  I  pass 

P'rom  light  to  dark,  from  dark  to  light. 
Dr.  S.  Weir  Mitchell, 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL  CORPORATION 

Established    1879.  Incorporated   1882. 

School  :   372  BOYLSTON  STREET. 

IPoarb  of  ^HuaQfrs,  J9O0f. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL, President. 

Mrs.  STEPHEN    D.  BENNETT,       Vice-President. 

Cvcrutibe  Committee. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL. 

Miss  ELLEN  M.  CHANDLER. 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL. 

Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY. 

Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS. 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING. 
Mrs.  WINSLOW  WARREN. 
Miss  MINNA  TRAIN. 

Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS. 
Mrs.  G.   E.  NILES,    Treasurer.    \ 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary. 
Principal,  Miss  FANNIE   MERRITT  FARMER. 

Assistants,  \  ^^"^^  ^''^^^^  ^^^  HOWARD. 

\  Miss  MARIETTA  McPHERSON. 

THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics. 

PUBLISHED    BIMONTHLY. 

Official  Journal  of  the  Boston   Cook- 
ing-School Corporation. 

Publication   Office  : 
37a   BoYLSTON  Street,  Boston,   Mass. 

JANET  McKENZIE  HILL Editor. 

BENJ.  M.  HILL General  Manager. 

R.  B.   HILL Business  Manager. 

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T 


HIS  month  the  Boston  Cook- 
i?ig-School  Magazine  is  sent  to 
its  subscribers  in  a  new  and 
more  fashionable  dress.  To  keep  in 
the  van  of  progress  and  establish  a 
reputation  for  good  taste  as  well  as  for 
utility,  it  seems  to  us,  is  an  aim  none 
too  high  for  a  household  publication. 
And  "the  first  law  of  good  taste  is  fit- 
ness." The  beautiful  and  the  useful 
must  be  combined. 

In  feeding,  it  is,  no  doubt,  saving 
economy  to  present,  at  the  same  time, 
attractive  and  palatable  dishes.  Hence 
it  comes  to  pass  that  to  cater  well  to 
the  needs  of  a  family  ever  calls  for 
expenditure  of  time  and  thought.  In 
the  matter  of  economic  living,  one  who 
uses  wisely  the  Boston  Cooking- School 
Magazijie  ought  to  receive  from  each 
number  by  far  more  of  helpful  sugges- 
tion than  the  price  of  a  yearly  subscrip- 
tion. In  return  for  what  we  receive, 
we  intend  to  give  full  value  ;  that  is, 
"  good  measure,  pressed  down,  and 
shaken  together,  and  running  over." 

But  the  improved  appearance  of  this 
our  Christmas  number  is  the  result  of 
but  one  of  the  plans  under  present  con- 
sideration to  improve  the  quality  and 
character  of  the  magazine  and  enlarge 
its  usefulness.  '  With  the  beginning  of 
the  new  volume,  in  June,  1901,  it  is  at 
last  definitely  proposed  to  make  the 
publication  practically  a  monthly. 
That  is,  we  propose  to  publish  at  least 
ten  numbers  in  a  volume,  making  the 
issue  of  June  and  July  and  that  of 
August  and  September,  in  the  vacation 
season,  double  numbers.  We  believe 
this  plan  on  trial  will  fulfil  the  desires 
of  our  readers  and  entirely  satisfy  the 
interests  of  our  advertising  patrons, 
both  from  an  economic  and  a  business 
point  of  view.     However,  the   plan  is 


Editorials 


169 


merely  suggested  here,  and  is  not  of 
immediate  concern.  Before  execution 
the  matter  will  be  submitted  in  detail 
to  our  readers. 

The  Boston  Cooking- School  Magazine 
has  no  intention  or  desire  to  multiply 
departments  or  to  imitate  the  style  and 
ways  of  other  periodicals.  It  will  con- 
tinue to  hold  fast  to  the  subject  of 
domestic  science,  in  its  various  phases, 
and  endeavor  to  sustain  its  name  as  a 
practical,  helpful,  and  instructive  agent 
in  the  chief  concerns  of  the  house- 
hold. The  contents  of  each  number 
are  designed  not  to  be  glanced  at  and 
tossed  aside,  but  to  be  referred  to, 
made  use  of,  and  then  filed  away  for 
repeated  reference.  The  entire  matter 
of  each  volume  is  deemed  worthy  of 
preservation  in  permanent  book  form. 

IN  the  October  Ladies'  Home  Jour- 
nal^ in  a  keen  article  relating  to  the 
evil  resulting  from  the  cramming 
of  our  children  by  modern  educational 
methods,  Edward  Bok  writes  :  "  Home 
study  must  be  stopped.  There  are 
no  two  sides  to  that  question.  Physi- 
cians almost  without  number  urge  the 
elimination  of  this  evil  and  injury 
from  the  lives  of  our  children.  Just 
as  our  business  men  should  cease 
working  and  thinking  about  their  busi- 
ness after  they  reach  home,  so  our 
children  should  be  permitted  to  drop 
all  studies  and  thought  of  studies  when 
they  come  home.  Studies  should  end, 
with  the  school  hours,  and  the  rest  of 
the  day  be  for  play,  fresh  air,  and 
exercise.  It  makes  no  difference  what 
the  cessation  of  home  study  means  in 
the  readjustment  of  the  school  system. 
That  is  for  our  educators  to  find  out 
and  adjust.  But  on  this  one  point 
there    can  be  no  doubt,  no  question ; 


and  there  should  be  no  delay.  There 
must  be  absolutely  no  home  study. 
Books  must  be  left  at  school,  and  the 
studies  with  them." 

That  is,  we  presume,  home  study  on 
the  part  of  children,  up  to  a  certain 
age  at  least,  should  be  voluntary  rather 
than  required ;  and  we  agree.  Teach- 
ers are  apt  to  forget  that  schools  are 
maintained,  not  for  their  own  special 
benefit,  but  for  the  best  interests  of  the 
children.  Teachers  and  school  officers, 
in  fact,  are  the  employees  of  the 
people,  and  in  all  matters  are  to  be 
held  responsible  and  subject  to  the 
latter's  will.  By  what  right,  then, 
does  the  teacher  dictate  the  manner  in 
which  the  child  shall  spend  his  time 
outside  the  legal  hours  of  school  ? 

A  NOTHER    matter    closely    con- 

aA  nected  and  no  less  important 
-^  -*'  than  that  of  home  study  is  the 
involuntary  detention  of  pupils  after 
school  hours.  The  custom  is  widely 
prevalent ;  and  yet  it  is  pernicious, 
and  cannot  be  justified  either  on  the 
ground  of  expediency  or  from  any 
other  consideration. 

It  is  positively  cruel  to  detain 
against  the  will,  in  the  already  viti- 
ated air  of  a  school-room,  a  nervous, 
sensitive  boy  or  girl  on  account  of 
some  trifling  misdemeanor  or  faulty 
lesson.  In  too  many  cases  it  is  simply 
prolonging  the  torture  of  a  writhing 
victim  of  mismanagement. 

"  Corporal  punishment  for  children 
is  growing  obsolete  and   unnecessary. 

"  With  patient  and  sympathetic  treat- 
ment the  most  unruly  child  can  be 
handled  and  made  to  do  the  reasonable 
will  of  an  older  person.  If  that  will 
is  unreasonable,  it  is  another  matter. 
Children  rebel  against  injustice  much 


lyo 


The   Boston  Cooking-School    Magazine 


sooner  than  grown  people ;  and  their 
sense  of  what  constitutes  injustice  is 
often  keener  than  that  of  their  elders." 
We  do  not  forget  that  school  dis- 
cipline must  be  secured ;  but  a  method 
of  discipline  is  an  open  question.  In 
our  schools  too  little  regard  is  paid  to 
the  physiological  and  hygienic  welfare 
of  the  children.  People  are  coming  to 
look  upon  a  healthy  body  as  a  more 
important  factor  in  the  matter  of  life 
than  any  amount  of  the  stereotyped 
precepts  and  so-called  discipline  of  the 
schools.  What  our  children  most  need 
is  to  be  interested,  stimluated,  and 
wisely  guided  in  the  use  of  the  proper 
means  to  educate  themselves.  And 
right  here  the  teacher's  efforts  should 
be  concentrated.  The  matter  of  deten- 
tion, as  that  of  home  study,  must  "  go 
up  to  the  parent "  for  final  adjustment. 

IN  the  constitution  of  Ruskin's  mind 
there  was  certainly  something  es- 
sentially akin  to  the  feminine.  He 
had  notions  about  introducing  aesthetic 
considerations  into  the  small  matters 
of  life  which  were  just  such  as  might 
have  come  to  a  gifted,  beauty-loving, 
sensible  woman,  but  which  often  seem 
fantastic  enough  to  the  majority  of  his 
male  readers.  His  love  of  cleanliness 
and  order  makes  an  intimate  appeal  to 
the  soul  of  the  good  housewife. 

Scientifically  viewed,  Ruskin's  theo- 
ries about  economics  may  have  been 
open  to  discussion ;  but  in  the  minute 
management  of  the  human  being's  do- 
mesticities he  had  such  economic  con- 
ceptions as  commend  themselves  nat- 
urally to  the  highest  and  best  types  of 
w^omen  the  world  over.  He  hated  the 
vulgarity  of  waste  and  of  those  sump- 
tuous drawing-room  effects  that  some- 
times   conceal    a   frowzy  pantry.     He 


wanted  things  to  be  good  all  through, 
with  a  sincerity  which  one  might  com- 
pare to  that  of  the  builder  of  a  Greek 
temple,  but  which  it  is  equally  exact 
to  compare  to  that  bred  of  the  culti- 
vated instincts  of  a  perfectly  refined 
woman.  The  fact  that  visitors  were 
not  received  in  the  kitchen  was  no  rea- 
son to  Ruskin  why  the  kitchen  should 
not  be  burnished  and  beautiful.  He 
uttered  many  inspiring  and  lovely 
words  about  the  kitchen's  obligation 
in  this  respect.  Yet,  in  reality,  he  was 
only  composing,  with  rich  and  sugges- 
tive harmonies,  on  a  plain  theme  which 
generations  of  experience,  and  of  hand- 
ed-down  wisdom  from  mother  to  daugh- 
ter, have  rendered  as  familiar  to  the 
saving  remnant  of  the  female  sex  as  a 
cradle  melody. 

Practicality  is  about  the  last  quality 
with  which  Ruskin  has  been  credited. 
Still,  in  point  of  fact,  the  most  signifi- 
cant and  valuable  elements  in  his  writ- 
ings are  founded  on  the  kind  of  knowl- 
edge that  comes  from  practical  contact 
with  the  minutiae  of  daily  living,  and 
from  nothing  else. 

Ruskin  never  preached  on  any  sub- 
ject more  effectively  than  on  this  ;  and 
perhaps,  when  many  of  his  other  preach- 
ments shall  have  been  forgotten,  it  will 
be  more  clearly  seen  how  important  he 
was  whenever  he  took  it  up.  His  was 
the  most  authoritative  and  the  most 
enchanting  voice  ever  lifted  to  express 
the  philosophy  of  the  enlightened 
woman's  opinion  and  practice  with  re- 
gard to  the  fundamental  economics  of 
daily  life.  Many  women  had  known 
about  these  topics  all  along ;  but  they 
had  never  seen  them  crystallized,  in- 
tellectualized,  built  as  an  integral  ele- 
ment into  a  high  system  of  aesthetics. 
The  Century  Magazine. 


Cfjrisitmas  #i\Jins 

^p  J^ate  (Gannett  m^tWa 


NOTE. —  In  place  of  our  "After  breakfast  Chat,"  we  present  on  this  page   the  appropriate 
and  timely  article  of   Mrs.   Wells.     We  are  certain  our  readers  will  accept   the   happy  ex- 
change with  feelings  of  pleasure. —  J.  M.  H.,  Ed. 


HOWEVER  sacred  is  the 
Christmas  significance,  there 
is  much  amusing  diplomacy 
about  its  presents.  Rummage  sales ! 
Why,  one's  house  is  converted  into  a 
rummage  give-away  weeks  before  De- 
cember 25.  In  such  a  collection  are 
the  useless  gifts,  which,  having  been 
welcomed,  were  soon  stowed  away 
without  any  label,  to  indicate  who  sent 
them  ;  and  then  —  such  memory  strug- 
gles arise  anent  the  name  of  the  giver, 
until  after  balancing  probabilities  as  to 
who  was  the  real  donor  —  the  un- 
used present  of  last  year  is  sent  to 
somebody  who  could  not  possibly 
have  given  it. 

But,  alas  !  at  a  "  swapping  lunch  " 
I  swapped  a  pearl-embroidered  fichu 
with  some  one  I  scarcely  knew,  who 
proved  to  be  the  intimate  friend  of 
the  lady  who  had  sent  me  the  lace, 
and  who  at  once  recognized  her 
unappreciated  Christmas  gift. 

The  private  house  Christmas  rum- 
mage also  includes  the  presents 
bought  for  imaginary  somebodies, 
just  after  the  last  Christmas,  when 
goods  were  marked  down,  but  which 
under  the  circumstances  of  the  present 
year  fit  no  one's  case.  Did  I  not  go 
to  Hovey's,  Dec.  26,  1899,  8.30  a.m. 
to  buy  bronzes  that  were  unsold  at 
ten  minutes  of  six  on  December  24, 
only  to  find  that  either  at  midnight  or 


early  dawn  they  had  been  safely 
packed  away  from  woman's  greed 
for  cheapened  values,  to  await  resur- 
rection at  good  prices  this  Decem- 
ber! 

Then  there  are  the  useful  gifts 
that  we  send  to  those  who  would 
more  enjoy  the  unneedful  things  of 
life,  which  they  cannot  afford  to  buy, — 
an  Attleboro  brooch  more  than  warm 
flannels,  flufTy  neckwear  more  than  a 
pair  of  arctics. 

Great  also  is  the  rummage  of  things 
bought  at  fairs  without  any  other  jus- 
tification of  their  being  than  the  hope 
that  they  may  come  in  use  some  time. 
And  greater  still  is  the  motley  collec- 
tion of  needlework  bric-k-brac,  which 
we  have  made  ourselves  (that  touching 
phrase),  for  our  friends,  and  which 
elicit  the  invariable  reply.  How  good 
you  were  to  take  so  many  stitches  just 
for  me  ! 

Books  surely  cannot  be  involved  in 
a  Christmas  rummage  clearance  ;  yet 
malicious  is  the  giver  who  inscribes 
her  name  in  a  book,  thus  laying  an 
embargo  upon  its  future  utility  as  a 
travelling  gift. 

Presents  of  money,  whether  as  large 
checks  or  small  coin,  can  never  carry 
any  sense  of  Christmas  discrepancy 
with  them,  and  cannot  be  reckoned 
into  the  rummage  account,  though 
often    they    represent    the     unearned 


172 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


increment  accruing  from  the  lavish- 
ness  of  affection. 

After  all,  there  are  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  Christmas  gifts  fitly  chosen, 
because  of  the  accumulated  experience 
of  nearly  twenty  centuries  in  the  art  of 
such  giving ;  and  there  is  no  delusion 
in  the  reality  of  a  large  part  of  our 
gratitude.  Yet,  in  spite  of  such  ear- 
nestness, our  childhood  never  failed  to 
have  its  annual  day  of  torture,  when, 
with  the  aid  of  a  dictionary,  we 
returned  our  written  thanks  for  what 
we  wished  had  been  just  a  little  dif- 
ferent. 

If  it  takes  grace  to  give,  it  takes 
more  to  receive.  A  stereotyped 
"Thank  you"  is  less  pleasing  to  hear 
than  an  impulsive  "  That's  bully." 
Each  gift,  no  matter  how  conventional, 
carries  with  it  something  of  the  giver's 
self;  but  that  self  needs  to  be  again 
renewed  by  gratitude,  not  for  the 
measure  of  the  gift,  but  for  the  thought 
that  prompted  it.  The  less  philan- 
thropic or  duteous  and  the  more  per- 
sonal is  that  thought,  the  more  is 
Christmas  the  dearest  day  of  "  all  the 
glad  New  Year." 

Yet  why  need  we  follow  the  same 
routine  of  giving  ?  Why  not  give  to 
some  persons  one  year  and  to  others 
another  season  ?  As  it  now  is,  our 
list  of  last  December  has  not  only  to 
be  filled  out,  but  a  few  new  names 
added,  until  the  accretions  of  each 
year,  and  the  reluctance  to  omit  past 
friends,  make  a  Christmas  list  the 
forerunner  of  nervous  prostration. 

The  trouble  with  the  modern  Christ- 
mas lies  in  our  lack  of  simplicity  con- 
cerning it.  Too  many  trees  are  cut 
down,  too  many  and  too  expensive 
gifts  are  given.     Reciprocity,  not  free 


trade,  is  its  motto.  Simplicity  in  giv- 
ing and  in  having  a  good  time  is  an 
art  that  we  have  lost  by  making  a  busi- 
ness of  Christmas, —  so  many  presents 
to  give,  so  many  notes  of  thanks  to 
write.  Watch  a  child  take  its  presents 
from  a  tree,  and  note  them  all  down 
on  paper  lest  he  forget  who  gave  this 
or  that !  Fifty  years  ago  children 
never  had  so  much  that  they  forgot 
what  they  had. 

Then  we  have  made  Christmas  so 
philanthropic  that  missionary  societies 
do  our  private  jobs  in  flowers  and 
cards.  Sunday-schools  vie  with  each 
other  in  increasing  their  attendance 
rolls  by  the  three  routine  gifts  of  a 
church  tree  :  a  bag  of  candy,  a  pair  of 
mittens,  and  a  toy  for  the  younger 
children  or  a  book  for  the  older  ones, 
all  gifts  being  capable  of  exchange  on 
the  spot.  Spiritual  values  are  lost 
sight  of  in  this  material  setting  forth 
of  Christmas. 

But  who  would  ever  forego  the  pleas- 
ure of  making  up  a  Christmas  box  of 
goodies  for  the  boy  or  girl  away  from 
home  ?  Into  its  plum  pudding  have 
been  stirred  a  mother's  longings,  until 
the  opening  of  such  boxes  is  almost 
sacramental.  What  is  warmer  than 
the  mother's  glow  of  proud  love  at 
receiving  something  her  child  has 
made  for  her  in  happy  open  secrecy, 
or  has  bought  for  her  out  of  his  wee 
spending  money }  W^ho  would  ever 
lose  the  pleasure  of  belief  in  the 
Christ-child,  who  to  little  children 
makes  known  the  coming  of  his  king- 
dom by  their  faith  in  Santa  Claus  ? 
What  hour  is  more  buoyant  than  the 
minutes  of  waiting  till  all  are  together 
before  any  one  can  see  what  he  has 
got? 


Chafing-dish  and  Seasonable  Recipes 

IX  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon  and  a  level  cupful  is 
meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful  of 
such  material. 


Oysters  with  Cream 

Scald  a  cup  of  cream  (over  hot 
water) ;  add  two  dozen  plump  oysters 
washed  and  freed  from  bits  of  shell. 
When  heated,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  beaten  and  mixed  with  half  a  cup 
of  cream.  When  slightly  thickened,  add 
a  scant  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
dash  of  pepper.  Serve  on  buttered 
toast. 

Hot  Ham  Sandwiches 

Spread  bread  cut  for  sandwiches 
with  chopped  ham,  seasoned  with  a 
little  made  mustard,  and  press  to- 
gether in  pairs.  Beat  an  ^^^^  add 
half  a  cup  of  rich  milk,  and  in  the  mixt- 
ure soak  the  sandwiches  a  few  mo- 
ments. Heat  a  tablespoonful  or  more 
of  butter  in  the  blazer,  and  in  this 
brown  the  sandwiches  first  on  one 
side  and  then  on  the  other.  Drain  on 
soft  paper,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster,  Creole  Style 

Chop  fine  a  sweet  green  pepper,  a 
tomato  peeled  and  seeded,  and  a  slice 
of  onion.  Cook  together  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  until  softened,  then 
add  a  cup  and  a  half  of  chicken  broth, 
and  let  simmer  five  minutes.  Then  add 
the  meat  from  three  tw^o-pound  lobsters 
cut  in  small  pieces,  with  salt  if  needed. 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Newburg 

Heat  one  cup  of  cream  in  the  blazer 
over  hot  water.     Add  one  cup  and  a 


half  of  sweetbreads  parboiled,  cooled, 
and  cut  in  cubes.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  add  a  scant  half-tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  few  grains  of 
cayenne,  dilute  with  three-fourths  a 
cup  of  sherry  wine,  and  stir  into  the 
cream.  Stir  until  thickened  slightly, 
then  serve  at  once.  Half  a  cup  of 
cooked  mushrooms  is  an  improvement 
to  the  dish.  Calves'  brains  may  be 
substituted  for  a  part  or  all  of  the 
sweetbread. 

Creamed  Chicken,  Potatoes  and 
Peppers 

Saute  half  a  green  pepper  in  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  five  or  six 
minutes.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
When  frothy,  add  gradually  a  cup  of 
chicken  stock  and  half  a  cup  of  cream, 
stir  until  smooth  and  at  the  boiling 
point,  then  set  over  hot  water  and 
heat  in  the  sauce  one  cup  of  chicken 
cut  in  cubes  and  half  a  cup  of  cold 
cooked  potatoes  also  cut  in  cubes. 
Turnip,  carrot,  peas,  or  asparagus 
tips  may  be  substituted  for  the  potato. 

Curry  of  Macaroni 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
cook  in  it  two  slices  of  onion  until  the 
onion  becomes  of  a  pale  straw-color, 
then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
one  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash 
of    pepper.     When    blended   with    the 


74 


rhe   Boston   Cooking-School    Magazine 


Bouillon  Cup 

butter,  add  gradually  one  cup  of  milk, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  boiling.  Then 
strain  over  one  cup  of  macaroni,  cooked 
until  tender  in  boiling  salted  water, 
and  then  drained  and  rinsed  in  cold 
water.  Reheat  and  serve.  Two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  pulp  may  be  added 
if  desired. 

Halibut  and  Lobster  a  la  Hol- 
landaise 

Have  ready  a  pound  of  raw  halibut 
cut  in  inch  cubes  and  cooked  in  salted 
acidulated  water  until  tender,  then 
drained.  (The  cubes  may  be  put  into 
a  frying  basket,  and  in  this  way  easily 
removed    and    drained  when    cooked.) 


When  the  fish  is  cold,  add  to  it  the 
flesh  of  a  two-pound  lobster,  cut  in 
cubes,  a  dash  of  salt  and  paprika  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  set  aside 
until  ready  to  use.  Put  into  the 
blazer,  over  hot  water,  three-fourths  a 
cup  of  creamed  butter.  Stir  into  this 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
and  then  gradually  one  cup  of  hot 
water.  xA.fter  all  the  water  has  been 
used  and  the  sauce  is  thickened  some- 
what, add  the  fish,  lobster,  and  lemon 
juice.  Stir  until  the  whole  is  hot,  then 
serve  at  once. 

Asparagus  a  I'lndienne 

Make  a  curry  sauce  as  above,  and 
heat  in  it  a  cup  of  cooked  asparagus 
tips  (fresh  cooked  or  canned).  Serve 
with  sippets  of  toast  or  with  finger- 
length  bits  of  bread  saute'd  in  the 
blazer. 


Cheese-and-Tomato  Rarebit 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the 
blazer  and  let  the  melted  butter  run 
over  the  bottom.  Then  add  two  cups  of 
cheese    grated  or   cut  into  dice.      Stir 


:h  China  Cracker  Jar  with  handled  Cheese  Plate 


Chafing-dish  and  Seasonable   Recipes 


175 


until  melted,  then  add  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  beaten  and  diluted  with  half  a 
cup  of  tomato  puree,  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  soda,  salt,  and  pa- 
prika. Stir  constantly  until  the  mixture 
is  smooth,  then  serve  on  bread  toasted 
upon  but  one  side. 

Cream-of-potato  Soup 

Boil  five  potatoes  and  an  onion  five 
minutes ;  drain,  add  two  quarts  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  cook  until  tender,  then 
pass  them  with  the  liquid  through  a 
sieve.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten 
wdth  a  cup  of  rich  cream.  Do  not 
allow  the  soup  to  boil,  but  stir  and 
cook   until    the    egg   becomes   slightly 


cooked  in  stock  or  broth,  instead  of 
water,  half  a  cup  of  cream  will  be 
enough. 

Sausage  with  Apple  Sauce 

Prick  the  skin  of  the  sausage  many 
times,  then  let  simmer  in  a  frying-pan 
fifteen  minutes,  drain  and  brown  in 
the  oven.  Make  a  syrup  of  one  cup, 
each,  of  sugar  and  water,  and  in  it 
cook  pared  apples,  cut  lattice-fashion, 
a  few  at  a  time,  to  preserve  the  shape. 
Serve  the  sausage  on  the  apples. 

Cream-of-celery  with  Peas 

Cook  the  root  ends,  the  leaves,  and 
outside  stalks  (cut  in  small  pieces)  of 
a  bunch  of  celery  (nearly  one  quart  in 


Sausage  with  Apple  Sauce 


cooked.  Have  ready  a  small  turnip 
and  half  a  carrot,  cut  in  straws  and 
cooked  until  tender,  separately,  in  boil- 
ing salted  water.  Add  these  to  the 
soup,  together  with  one  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cooked  peas  or  string 
beans,  cut  small.     If  the  potatoes  are 


all)  and  half  an  onion  in  boiling  water 
five  minutes ;  drain  and  cook  in  water 
to  cover  until  the  celery  is  soft  and  the 
water  is  reduced ;  that  is  about  two 
hours.  Then  press  as  much  of  the 
celery  as  possible  through  the  sieve, 
and  set  aside  with   the  liquid.     Cook 


176 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


one-fourth  a  cup  of  Hour  in  three  table-      pestle  press  it  through  a  pure'e  sieve, 
spoonfuls  of  butter ;  add  gradually  one      Add   two    eggs   slightly  beaten,  a    few 


Salpicon  of  Chicken  in  Rice  Croustades 


pint  of  milk,  then  stir  with  one  pint  of 
white  stock  into  the  celery.  Reheat 
to  the  boiling  point,  add  one  cup  of 
scalded  cream,  one  cup  of  peas,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Chestnut  Timbale  for  Con- 
somme 
Mix  together  half  a  cup,  each,  of 
chestnut  puree  (chestnuts  boiled  and 
passed  through  a  sieve)  and  cream, 
the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a 
few  grains  of  salt  and  mace.  Poach 
until  firm  in  buttered  moulds,  covered 
and  set  in  hot  water,  either  in  the  oven 
or  on  the  top  of  the  range. 

Chicken   Custard  for   Consomme 
(Green  and  Red) 
Pound  one-fourth  a   cup  of   cooked 
chicken    in    a    mortar,    then    with    the 


grains,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  puree. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  mould  or  cup,  and 
set  in  hot  water  to  poach.  Let  cool, 
then  unmould,  and  cut  into  fanciful 
shapes  or  small  cubes.  Add  to  three 
pints  of  hot  consomme'  with  half  a  cup 
of  cooked  peas. 

Salpicon  of  Chicken  in  Rice 
Croustades 

Let  a  cup  of  rice  boil  in  a  quart  of 
cold  water  five  minutes,  drain  on  a 
sieve,  and  rinse  thoroughly  with  cold 
water.  Return  to  the  sauce-pan  with 
half  a  cup  of  tomato  pure'e,  three  cups 
of  chicken  broth,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
When  the  mixture  reaches  the  boiling- 
point,  set  over  hot  water,  cover,  and  let 
cook  until  the  rice  is  tender   and  the 


Chafing-dish  and   Seasonable   Recipes 


177 


liquid  mostly  absorbed.  Then  pack  in- 
to well-buttered  dariole  moulds,  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  Turn  from  the  moulds,  roll 
in  flour  and  in  egg  and  bread  crumbs, 
then  with  a  knife  or  small  cutter  make 
an  incision  about  a  quarter  an  inch 
deep  in  each  croustade,  leaving  a  rim 
about  one-fourth  an  inch  wide.  Fry 
to  a  golden-brown  in  deep  fat,  then 
remove  the  tops,  scoop  out  the  centres, 
and  fill  with  cooked  chicken  cut  in 
small  cubes  and  reheated  in  a  sauce 
made  of  equal  parts  of  cream  and 
chicken  broth  thickened  with  a  roux. 
Cover  the  top  of  the  croustades  with 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  until 
stiff,  and  set  into  the  oven  to  brown 
lightly. 

Black  Butter  (Beurre  Noir) 

{Served  in  Yiile  Tide  Menu) 

Heat  half  a  cup  (four  ounces)  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  until  it  assumes 
a  deep  golden  color.  Add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  parsley  leaves,  picked  into 
bits  after  washing  and  drying,  shake 
the  pan,  and  as  soon  as  the  parsley  is 


crisp  pour  the  sauce  into  the  sauce- 
bowl.  This  sauce  may  be  made  with- 
out the  parsley.  When  thus  prepared, 
cook  the  butter  to  a  deeper  brown, 
skim,  and  pour  off  the  top   only. 

Chantilly  Apple-sauce  with 
Horseradish 

Cook  about  five  medium-sized  apples, 
pared  and  cored,  with  a  very  little  water 
(steaming  is  preferable,  as  they  should 
be  very  dry  when  cooked),  pass  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  add  to  the  pulp  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  fresh-grated  horse- 
radish. When  mixed  thoroughly,  fold 
in  an  equal  bulk  of  w^iipped  cream. 
Serve  separately  with  young  ducks  or 
goslings. 

Apple  Puree,  Jellied 

Pare,  quarter,  and  core  six  apples  ; 
stew  quickly  (to  keep  them  white) 
until  tender,  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
water  and  two  cloves  ;  pass  through  a 
sieve  (there  should  be  a  pint  of  pulp). 
Add  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-third  a  pack- 


Apple  Puree,  Jellied 


78 


The   Boston   Cookings-School    Magazine 


age  of  irelatine  softened  in  one-third  a 
cup  of  cold  water  and  dissolved  over 
hot  water.  Let  cool,  then  add  the 
juice  of  five  lemons  i^one  cup),  and 
beat,  while  standing  in  ice-water,  until 
very  white  and  foamy  and  quite  stiff. 
Then  stir  in  a  scant  cup  of  French  fruit 
cut  small  and  soaked  in  maraschino 
or  a  little  hot  syrup.  Mould,  and. 
when  cold,  serve  with  thin  rounds  of 
apple  cooked  tender  in  equal  measures 
of  sugar  and  water.  Flavor  the  syrup 
with  lemon  juice,  and  pour,  when  cold 
and  thick  like  jelly,  over  the  apples 
and  the  puree. 

Filling  for  Cranberry  Pie 
Mix  one-fourth  a  cup  of  corn-starch 
with  two  cups  of  sugar.     Pour  over  one 


of    cranberries    chopped    fine.      This 
quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  two  pies. 

Steamed  Fruit  Pudding 

{Prize  Recipe) 
Stir  one  cup  of  vitos  into  two  cups 
of  scalded  milk.  As  soon  as  the  mixt- 
ure thickens,  remove  from  the  fire. 
Add  half  a  cup  of  molasses,  two  well- 
beaten  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  one  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
soda  and  salt,  and  one  cup  of  dates 
stoned  and  cut  in  pieces.  Turn  into  a 
buttered  mould  (a  three-pint  brick 
mould  was  used  for  the  half-tone)  and 
steam  three  hours.     Serve  with 

Messina  Sauce 
Stir  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter,  one 


Steamed  Fruit  Puddingy 


cup  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until 
boiling,  then  add  half  a  cup  of  mo- 
lasses, half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one  quart 


cup  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and 
the  juice  of  two  lemons  over  hot 
water,  until  the  mixture  thickens.     If 


Chafing-dish  and  Seasonable   Recipes 


79 


desired,  use  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and 
one  whole  egg  in  the  pudding,  leav- 
ing two  yolks  for  the  sauce. 


Fold  the  first  third  of  the  paste  over 
the  second  third,  and  the  last  over 
the  others,  pat  and  roll   out.     Repeat 


Orange  Jelly.      Small  mould  filled  with  ice  and  water.      Charlotte  Moulds  for  double  moulding. 

Recipe,  page  i  80 


Bread  Sticks 
Make  a  dough  as  for  salad  rolls, 
using  less  butter.  When  ready  to  shape, 
form  into  balls,  then  roll  the  balls  (with- 
out flour)  on  the  board  with  the  hands, 
until  sticks  of  uniform  size  and  shape 
like  a  thick  lead-pencil  are  formed. 
Set  to  rise  in  a  pan  designed  for  the 
purpose,  leaving  them  full  or  half 
length,  as  desired.  Bake,  when  light, 
in  a  hot  oven. 

Cream  Pastry  (for  One  Pie) 

Sift  together  one  cup  and  a  fourth 
of  flour,  one-third  a  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  salt  and  baking-powder.  Then  stir 
in  thick  cream  to  make  a  paste  stiff 
enough  to  handle  (between  half  and 
three-fourths  a  cup).  Take  out  half 
of  the  paste,  knead  slightly,  then  pat, 
and  roll  out  to  fit  the  pie  tin.  Knead 
the  trimmings  and  rest  of  the 
paste  slightly,  pat  and  roll  out  into  a 
rectangular  sheet,  and  spread  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  washed  butter. 


the  folding  and  rolling  two  or  three 
times.  Then  chill,  and  roll  to  fit  the 
plate.  If  the  cream  be  sour,  use  a 
scant  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  soda 
instead  of  the  baking-powder. 

Salad  or  Luncheon  Rolls 

Scald  two  cups  of  milk.  When  cool, 
add  a  yeast  cake  softened  in  half  a  cup 
of  lukewarm  water  and  about  two  cups 
of  flour,  beat  thoroughly,  and  set  aside 
covered  until  it  is  light.  Then  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  cup  of  softened  butter, 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff,  and 
flour  to  make  a  dough.  Knead  nearly 
half  an  hour.  Let  rise  until  double  in 
bulk,  then  shape  into  balls.  Let  rise 
until  light  and  puffy,  then  with  the 
floured  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon  make 
a  deep  crease  in  the  middle  of  each 
biscuit  without  dividing  it.  Brush  the 
crease  with  melted  butter,  and  press 
the  edges  close  together.  Place  the 
biscuit  close  together  in  a  buttered  pan. 


i8o 


The  Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


cover,  let  rise  a  few  moments,  and  bake 
twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Orange  Jelly 
Soak  half  a  box  of  gelatine  in  half  a 
cup  of  cold  water  and  dissolve  in  a  cup 
of  boiling  water.  Add  one  cup  of  sugar, 
strain,  and,  when  cold,  add  one  pint  of 
orange  juice  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Remove  the  orange  juice  wdth  a  spoon. 

Salpicon  of  Fruit  Moulded  in 
Orange  Jelly 

Select  two  moulds  similar  in  shape, 
one  an  inch  larger  than  the  other. 
Make  a  little  more  orange  jelly  than 
enough  to  fill  the  larger  mould.  Set 
the  larger  mould  in  a  pan  of  ice  and 
water,  pour  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
orange  jelly,  and,  when  set,  arrange 
upon  it  candied  cherries,  white  grapes. 


inch  or  more.  Dip  halved  almonds  in 
cooled  jelly,  and  press  against  the 
chilled  sides  of  the  mould.  When  the 
jelly  is  firm,  set  the  smaller  mould  upon 
it  and  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  first 
mould,  fill  wdth  ice  and  water,  and  then 
fill  the  outer  mould  with  jelly.  When 
firm,  dip  out  the  ice  and  water  and 
refill  with  warm  water,  and  remove  at 
once  the  inner  mould.  Nearly  fill  the 
open  space  with  chilled  cherries  and 
grapes,  prepared  as  before  and  mixed 
with  syrup  flavored  to  taste.  Cover 
with  chilled  jelly,  thick,  but  not  set, 
and  let  stand  until  firm.  Serve  with 
cream. 

New  York  Gingerbread 
Cream    half    a   cup    of    butter,    add 
gradually  a   cup    of    sugar,    the    yolks 
of  two   eggs,  one-fourth  a  cup  of   mo- 
lasses, and,  alternately,   half  a  cup  of 


Salpicon  of  Fruit  moulded  In  Orange  Jelly.      Recipe  above 


skinned  and  seeded,  and  almonds, 
blanched  and  halved,  to  form  a  design. 
Add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooled  jelly  to 
keep  the  fruit  in  place,  and,  when  firm, 
add  enough  to  cover  the  design  half  an 


milk  and  two  cups  of  flour  sifted  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  yellow  ginger 
and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
Lastly  add  the  stiff-beaten  whites  of  two 
eggs.     Bake  in  a  loaf  or  in  small  tins. 


Menus  for  Light  Housekeeping.    ©ecetn^Jet 

[Three  Adults) 

When  one  is  contented,  there  is  no  more  to  be  desired. —  Don  Quixote 


breakfast 

Ralston  Breakfast  Food. 

Toast  with  Tomato  Cream  Sauce. 

Poached  Eggs. 

Coffee. 

THnner 

Clam  Bouillon,  Dinner  Biscuit. 

Roast  Chicken  (cold,  from  delicatessen  shop). 

Cranberry  Sauce. 

Maslied  Potato.     Peas  in  White  Sauce. 

Cabbage  with  French  Dressing. 

English  Walnuts  in  Lemon  Jelly. 

Whipped  Cream.      Coffee. 

Supper 

Cheese  and  Tomato  Rarebit. 

Little  Cakes.     Tea. 


^re^kfast 

Oranges.  Boiled  Potatoes. 

Salt  Codfish  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Rolls.     Pickles. 

Fried  Rice,  Maple  Syrup.     Cereal  Coffee. 

^ox  Luncheon 

Potato   Salad.      Boiled  Eggs  in  Shell. 

Sardines  in  Waxed  Paper. 

Brown  Bread-and-butter  Sandwiches. 

Canned  Pears  (Pint-can). 

T>inner 

Kornlet  Soup.  Boston  Baked  Beans. 

Tomatoes  Stewed  with  Bread  Crumbs. 

Celery.  Neufchatel  Cheese.     Crackers. 

Cored  Apples  Stewed  in  Syrup,  Cream. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


breakfast 

Grape  Nuts,  Sliced  Bananas,  Cream. 

Bacon,  Potato  Cakes.     Eggs  in  Shell. 

Dry  Toast.     Cereal  Coffee. 

*Bojr  Luncheon 

Sliced  Chicken. 

Rye  Bread-and-butter  Sandwiches.     Olives. 

Cups  of  Jelly  with  Nuts.  Wafers. 

^nner 

Potato  Soup,  Garnish  of  Peas. 

Canned   Salmon    (heated  in  can).     Egg  Sauce. 

Boiled  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Tapioca  with  Pineapple,  Cream. 

Cafe  Noir. 


'Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat,  Cream. 

Scrambled  Eggs.      Rolls  (reheated) . 

Coffee. 

*5ojr  Luncheon 

Baked  Beans  and  Tomato  Salad.     Rolls. 

Cooked  Apples. 

Cold  Coffee  and  Cream 

(In  pint  jar  or  bottle.) 

T>inner 

Clam  Bouillon. 

Corned  Beef  (Canned).     Mustard. 

Stewed  Celery  in  Cream  Sauce.      Boiled  Potatoes. 

Lettuce  Salad. 
Corn-starch  Pudding,  Sugar  and  Cream.  Tea. 


'Breakfast 

Granulated  Barley,  Cream. 

Salmon  Cakes.      Cole  Slaw.      Muffins. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Box  Luncheon 

Chopped  Chicken  Sandwiches. 

Green  Tomato  Sweet  Pickle. 

Lady-finger  and  Pineapple  Sandwiches. 

Oranges. 

T>inner 

Mock  Bisque  Soup,  Bread  Sticks. 

Lamb  Chops,  Boiled  Rice. 

Kornlet  Souffle. 

Water  Cresses.     Neufchatel  Cheese. 

Crackers. 

Canned  Pears.     Cookies.     Cafe  Noir. 


Breakfast 

VitOS  with  Dates. 

Toast  with  Anchovy  Paste  and  Poached  Eggs. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Box  Luncheon 
Boston  Brown-bread-and-butter 

Sandwiches. 
Neufchatel  Cheese.     Celery. 

Baked  Cup  Custards. 

'Dinner 

Oyster  Stew. 
Pine-olas. 
Lettuce-and-egg  Salad.     Rolls. 

Cranberry    Puffs.      Cranberry  Sauce. 
Cafe  Noir. 


Breakfast 

Oatmeal,  Cream. 

Creamed  Corned  Beef. 

White  Hashed  Potatoes. 

Toast. 

Coffee. 


Box  Luncheon 

Chopped  Corned  Beef 

Sandwiches 

(Horseradish  Sauce). 

Coffee  Eclairs. 

Cold  Tea. 


T>inner 

Hamburg  Steak. 

Macaroni  in  Tomato  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potatoes.     Cress  Salad. 

Plain  Junket. 

Preserved  Ginger  (Jar  15c.). 

Cafe  Noir. 


Yule  Tide  Menus 

"  What  we  gave,  we  have  ; 
What  we  spent,  we  had  ; 
What  we  left,  we  lost." 

Christmas  Dinner  [Red  Color  Scheme) 

I 

l©itb  matice  totoarb^?  none,  toitb  cftaritp  for  ^\,— Lincoln. 

Consomme,  with  Chicken-custard  and  Peas. 

Boiled  Middle  Cut  of  Cod,  Black  Butter. 

Cubes  of  Tomato  Jelly,  with  Lettuce  and  Mayonnaise. 

Young  Goose,  Roasted. 

Sifted  Apple  Sauce,  with  Candied  Cherries.      Stuffed  Onions.     Mashed  Potato. 

Celery.  Crackers.  Edam  Cheese. 

Mince  Pie. 

Caramel  Ice  Cream.  Bonbons.  Cafe  Noir. 

II 

"  (^bp  cbiltiren  Kifte  oTite  plantjB  rounb  about  tbp  table." 

Consomme,  with  Egg  Balls,  Bread  Sticks,  Celery. 

Roast  Beef,  "Platter  Gravy,  Apple  and  Barberry  Jelly. 

Mashed  Potato.  Spinach  a  la  Cr£;me. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Entire  Wheat  Bread  and  Nut  Sandwiches. 

Individual  Charlotte  Russe.  Preserved  Quinces.  Bonbons. 

Coffee. 

Ill 

;^o  come>^  a  recftoning  toben  tbe  banquet'?  o'er.—  Gay. 

CONSOMMIi,  WITH    ChESTNUT    TiMBALES    AND    TURNIP    BaLLS. 

Fillets  of  Flounder,  with  Blanched  Oysters. 
Potatoes,  Boiled.  Hollandaise  Sauce.  Hot  House  Cucumbers. 

Young  Goose,  Roasted. 

Chantilly  Apple   Sauce  with  Horseradish. 

Celery,  with  Brown  Sauce. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Frogs'  Legs  and  Hard  Boiled  Eggs,  Soubise. 

Roast  Ducks,  Olive  Sauce. 

Orange  and  Celery  Salad. 

Plum  Pudding.  Hard  Sauce.  Castellane  Pudding. 

Grape  Juice  Sherbet,  Cheese  Bouchees. 

Cafe  Noir. 


Seasonable  Menus,      fatiuarj? 

God  sendeth  and  giveth,  both  mouth  and  the  meat. —  Tusser 


"Breakfast 
Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat. 

Stewed  Dates,  Cream. 

Salt  Codfish  Balls,  Chili  Sauce. 

Saratoga  Corn  Cake.     Cereal  Coffee. 

^nner 

Cream-of-celery  Soup  with  Peas. 

Bread  Stici<s.  Little   Pig,  Roasted. 

Glazed  Turnips,  Mashed  Potatoes,  Polenta. 

Apples  in  Jelly. 

Lettuce-and-nut  Salad. 

Cranberry  Pie.     Cafe  Noir. 

Supper 

Curry  of  Macaroni. 

Smoked  Beef  Sandwiches. 

Wafers.     Tea. 


breakfast 

Granulated  Barley,  Cream. 

Salt  Mackerel,  Broiled. 

Cream  Potatoes  witli  Parsley. 

Saratoga  Corn  Cake  (reheated).     Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Risotto. 

Potato-and-mackerel  Salad. 

Boston  Brown  Bread  with  Butter.     Tea. 

^nner 

Potato  Soup. 

Cold  Pork,  Sliced  Thin. 

Hot  Apple  Sauce. 

Baked  Squash.     Cole  Slaw. 

Grape  Whip.     Brownies.     Cafe  Noir. 


"Breakfast 
Ralston  Breakfast  Food,  Cream. 

Cold  Roast  Pork,  Baked  Apples. 
Baked  Potatoes. 
Rye  Bread  (Fresh). 
Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Welsh  Rarebit, 

Canned  Peaches.     Gingerbread. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

T>inner 

Chicken  Fricassee. 

Boiled  Rice.    Cauliflower,  HoUandaise  Sauce. 

Celery-and-apple  Salad. 

Home-made  Candy.     Cafe  Noir. 


"Breakfast 

Quaker  Oats  with  Raisins,  Cream. 

Fried  Smelts. 

French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Dry  Toast.         Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Salad  Rolls.     Honey. 

Squash  Pie.  Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Spht  Pea  Soup. 

Salpicon  of  Chicken  in  Rice  Croustades. 

Escalloped  Cabbage. 

Cress  Salad  (Hothouse). 

Pomona   Sherbet  (Sweet  Cider,  Frozen). 

Cafe  Noir. 


o 

w 

CO 


"Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Rolled  Wheat. 

Stewed  Figs,  Cream. 

Dried  Beef  in  Cream  Sauce.     Baked  Potatoes. 

Yeast  Rolls  (reheated).      Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Escalloped  Oysters. 

Baking-pow^der  Biscuits  (entire  Wheat  Flour). 

Cole  Slaw. 
Apple  Puree,  JelHed,  Whipped  Cream.      Tea. 

"TXnner 

Mutton  "  Hot  Pot,"  Canned  Peas. 

Lettuce-and-cheese  Salad. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream  (Junket). 

New  York  Gingerbread.     Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 
Pettijohn's  Breakfast  Food,  Cream. 

Fried  Oysters.     Chow-chow. 
Corn  Meal  Muffins.     Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Mock  Bisque  Soup,  Croutons. 

Apple  Pie.  Cream  Cheese. 

Tea. 

"Dinner 

Boiled  Codfish,  Black  Butter. 

Plain  Boiled  Potatoes.     Kornlet  Custard. 

Lettuce-and-tomato  Jelly  Salad. 

Cracker  Fruit  Pudding. 

Cafe  Noir. 


"Breakfast 

Corn-meal  Mush. 

Winter  Sweets,   Baked. 

Broiled  Ham.  Kornlet  Omelet. 

Brown  Hashed  Potatoes. 

Entire  Wheat  Mufiins. 

Coffee. 


Luncheon 

Dried  Lima  Beans,  Stewed. 

Fresh  Rye  Bread  and 

Butter. 

Preserved  Quinces 

with  Cream. 

Tea. 


"Dinner 

Codfish,  Ambassador  Style. 

Baked  Potatoes.  Brussels  Sprouts, 

Buttered. 

Celery  Salad. 

Steamed  Indian  Pudding. 

Preserved  Ginger.      Cafe  Noir. 


In  Reference  to  Menus 


THE  seasonable  menus  in  this 
issue  are  written  for  luncheon 
at  noon  ;  and  yet,  while  this 
seems  the  most  desirable  plan  of  meals 
in  many  families,  the  custom  is  not 
universally  acceptable.  School  is  a 
hungry  place ;  and,  moreover,  active 
children  digest  and  assimilate  food 
ver}'  rapidly.  A  child  a  dozen  years 
of  age  needs  each  day  food  capable  of 
producing  nearly  as  many  calories  of 
energ}'  as  that  required  by  a  working- 
man.  This  thought  should  be  kept  in 
mind  ;  and,  whether  children  return  for 
a  second  school  session  or  not,  atten- 
tion should  be  given  to  the  noon-day 
meal.  Cold,  starchy  food  eaten  habit- 
ually will,  in  the  process  of  time,  en- 
gender dyspepsia  and  the  whole  train 
of  ills  that  follow  in  its  wake.  Chil- 
dren up  to  the  age  of  at  least  a  dozen 
years  should  have  their  heartiest  meal 
in  the  middle  of  the  day ;  and  the  in- 
creased amiability  of  their  conduct  as- 
sured by  this  step,  to  say  nothing  of  its 
lifelong  effect  upon  health,  will  more 
than  compensate  for  the  extra  labor  it 
involves. 

The  menus  for  light  housekeeping 
are  planned  for  three  young  women 
employed  in  offices  from  nine  until 
live,  who  take  a  cold  luncheon  from 
home.  The  dishes  are  such  (with  the 
exception  of  bread,  baked  beans,  and 
the  fowl,  purchased  already  cooked)  as 
can  be  prepared  with  a  two-burner  gas 
or  oil  stove  and  a  chafing-dish.  Where 
gas  is  used  in  the  rooms,  it  is  well  to 
be  able  to  connect  the  chafing-dish  with 
the  gas  supply.  A  handsome  frame, 
containing  a  burner,  upon  which  the 
blazer  or  hot  water  pan  may  rest,  or 


the  tea  kettle  be  set,  and  flat-irons, 
etc.,  be  heated,  is  now  displayed  at 
gas  exchanges.  With  gas  as  a  fuel, 
the  flame  being  easily  controlled,  chaf- 
ing-dish cookery  is  much  simplified. 
Of  the  dishes  mentioned  in  the  menus, 
toast  will  be  found  the  most  incon- 
venient to  prepare.  Zwieback,  pur- 
chasable at  most  bakers,  can  be  substi- 
tuted. At  times  the  bread  may  be 
dried  out  in  a  small  oven  placed  over 
one  of  the  burners.  This  oven  will  be 
found  very  convenient,  on  occasion,  in 
keeping  part  of  the  meal  hot. 

For  the  tomato  cream  toast  prepare 
a  sauce,  using  two  tablespoonfuls,  each, 
of  butter  and  flour,  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  paprika, 
and  half  a  cup,  each,  of  tomato  puree 
and  milk. 

For  the  tomato  pure'e  pass  a  can  of 
tomatoes  through  a  sieve,  and  use  what 
is  needed  for  the  sauce.  Or,  if  a  richer 
and  more  concentrated  flavor  of  tomato 
be  desired,  let  the  pure'e  simmer  until 
well  reduced.  Then  a  part  may  be 
used  for  the  "rarebit"  at  supper,  and 
the  rest  set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for 
the  mock  bisque  soup  on  Tuesday. 
Concentrated  tomato  pure'e,  put  up  in 
cans  ready  for  use,  may  be  purchased 
in  city  stores.  Dip  the  edges  of  the 
toast  in  boiling  salted  water,  then 
cover  with  the  hot  sauce.  Finish  each 
slice  with  a  carefully  poached  egg. 
If  a  more  substantial  breakfast  be 
desired,  sprinkle  each  slice  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese  before 
the  Qgg  is  set  in  place. 

Dinner  biscuit  are  peculiar  small 
square  crackers,  made  expressly  for 
soup. 


In   Reference  to   Menus 


i8s 


No  sauce  being  available  for  the 
chicken,  the  peas  are  served  in  a  white 
sauce.  A  scant  cup  of  sauce  will  be 
sufficient,  just  enough  to  hold  them 
together.  On  opening  the  can,  set 
aside  half  a  cup  of  the  peas  for  the 
soup  on  Monday. 

Half  a  cabbage  will  give  sufficient 
material  for  several  dinner  salads. 

Shape  whatever  potato  remains  from 
dinner  into  cakes  :  these  can  be  quickly 
fried  in  the  hot  bacon  fat  for  the 
Monday  breakfast.  There  is  bacon 
and  bacon.  Mild-cured,  tender  bacon 
is  procurable ;  and  the  best  is  the 
cheapest. 

The  quick-cooking  varieties  of  tapi- 
oca make  delicious  desserts,  easily  and 
quickly  prepared.  Raisins  stewed  in 
water,  used  in  the  place  of  the  pine- 
apple, given  in  the  menu,  are  more 
wholesome  than  when  they  are  eaten 
uncooked  ;  and,  thus  used  with  tapioca, 
they  are  useful  in  an  emergency. 

For  the  pineapple  tapioca  add  to 
half  a  twenty-cent  can  of  grated  pine- 
apple enough  boiling  water  to  make  a 
pint  in  all :  into  this,  when  hot,  stir  a 
scant  cup  of  tapioca.  Cook  until  trans- 
parent, add  a  few  grains  of  salt,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  cup 
of  sugar.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  serve 
hot  with  cream.  Cook  the  other  half 
of  the  pineapple  with  one-third  a  cup 
of  sugar,  add  the  juice  of  the  other 
half  of  the  lemon,  let  boil  once,  then 
set  aside  as  a  filling  for  the  lady-finger 
sandwiches. 

Boil  three  or  four  more  potatoes 
than  are  needed  for  dinner  on  Mon- 
day. Pass  through  a  ricer  while  hot, 
add  butter,  salt,  and  hot  milk,  and 
beat  until  very  light.  Then  beat  in  the 
salmon  left  from  dinner  on  Monday, 
picked   into   bits.     Shape    into    small 


cakes,  and    set    aside   to  be  fried  for 
breakfast. 

Baked  apples  are  greatly  relished 
by  most  people  ;  but,  when  a  hot  oven 
is  not  available,  a  very  good  substitute 
may  be  found  in  apples  cored  and 
pared  and  cooked  in  a  little  syrup  on 
the  top  of  the  range.  If  convenient,  a 
little  jelly,  currant,  or  quince,  may  be 
added  to  the  syrup.  Cook  the  apples 
slowly,  turning  frequently,  that  the 
shape  may  be  kept  perfect.  They  are 
good  even  without  cream.  When  cold, 
they  are  easily  carried  for  luncheon. 

For  the  corn-starch  pudding  on  Thurs- 
day, stir  one-fourth  a  cup  of  corn-starch, 
mixed  with  cold  milk  to  pour,  into 
a  pint  of  scalded  milk ;  stir  until  the 
milk  thickens,  then  occasionally  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Add  one  or  two  eggs 
beaten  with  one-third  a  cup  of  sugar, 
and  cook  until  the  egg  thickens,  stir- 
ring constantly.  Serve  with  sugar  and 
cream,  or  put  a  little  in  the  serving 
dishes  with  one  or  two  halves  of 
canned  apricots  or  peaches  in  the 
centre  of  each,  and  a  little  juice  from 
the  jar  over  the  whole. 

For  the  breakfast  on  Thursday 
spread  hot  slices  of  toast  with  anchovy 
paste,  and  place  poached  eggs  upon 
the  toast. 

In  the  Yule-tide  menus  consomm(f 
with  a  garnish  is  given  as  the  soup. 
In  serving  at  the  dinner  table,  have  the 
consomme  in  the  tureen  and  the  gar- 
nish in  a  vegetable  dish.  Then,  when 
a  ladleful  of  soup  has  been  placed  in 
a  soup  plate,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful 
or  more  of'  the  garnish.  Use  about  a 
dozen  peas  and  a  dozen  pieces  of  the 
custard,  or  if,  as  is  sometimes  the  case, 
timbales  cut  in  three  even  slices  are 
to  be  served,  use  with  a  dozen  pieces'of 
the  small  garnish  two  slices  of  timbale. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating  to 
menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  cuHnary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must 
reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to 
appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  mail,  please  enclose  postage  stamp;  for  menus,  $i. 
Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston 
Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  413. —  A.  H.,  Harlem,  N.Y. : 
"  What  kind  of  a  pan  do  you  use  for  fry- 
ing fish  t  How  can  fish  be  fried  a  golden 
brown  ?  What  kind  of  a  knife  is  used  in 
turning  fish  so  that  it  may  be  unbroken  ?  " 

Frying  Fish 

If  the  fish,  as  a  dry  slice  of  halibut 
or  swordfish,  is  to  be  fried  upon  one 
side  and  then  turned  and  fried  on  the 
other,  a  heavy  iron  frying-pan  will  be 
found  most  suitable.  A  few  spoonfuls 
of  fat  may  be  heated  in  the  pan  (there 
should  be  only  enough  oil  or  fat  to 
keep  the  fish  from  sticking  to  the  pan), 
and  into  this  lay  the  prepared  fish. 
Cook  until  well  browned  (if  there  is  a 
strong  heat,  the  stove  lid  should  not  be 
removed  from  under  the  pan).  Then 
with  a  long  and  broad-bladed  knife  turn 
and  cook  upon  the  other  side  until 
well  browned.  To  prepare  the  fish, 
dip,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
in  flour  sprinkled  on  a  fish-board  or 
a  piece  of  wrapping  paper,  and  thus 
cover  each  side  lightly  with  the  flour. 
Or  dip  in  milk  and  then  in  fine  bread 
crumbs,  or  it  may  be  egged-and-bread- 
crumbed.     Probably  the    most  -  whole- 


some way  of  frying  fish  is  in  deep  fat, 
or  "  the  bath."  Cut  the  fish  in  pieces 
for  serving,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  onion  and  lemon  juice  if  de- 
sired, then  egg-and-bread-crumb  per- 
fectly. Arrange  four  or  five  pieces  in 
a  frying-basket,  and  lower  into  a  Scotch 
bowl  containing  enough  hot  fat  to 
cover  the  fish.  The  fat  should  be  hot 
enough  to  brown  a  crumb  of  bread 
while  counting  forty  as  the  clock  ticks. 
Small  fillets  of  fish  require  between 
three  and  four  minutes  to  cook;  and 
the  fat  should  be  withdrawn  from 
strong  heat  after  the  first  minute,  to 
avoid  browning  the  fish  too  much. 
Thick  fillets  will  need  longer  cooking. 
Drain  the  fish  in  the  basket,  then 
place  on  soft  paper  inside  the  oven 
door  for  a  moment. 


Query  414. —  Miss  M.  E.  Y.,  Narra- 
gansett  Pier,  R.I.:  "Recipe  for  salmon 
loaf." 

Salmon  Loaf 

Cook  one  cup,  each,  of  soft  bread 
crumbs  and  rich  milk  to  a  paste.  Add 
half  a  cup  of  cream,  half  a  teaspoonful 


Queries  and  Answers 


187 


of  salt,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  or 
paprika,  and  a  pint  of  cooked  salmon, 
rubbed  fine  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
Fold  in  the  whites  of  six  eggs  beaten 
dry,  or  use  three  whole  eggs  beaten 
without  separating.  If  desired,  flavor 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy, or  use  onion  and  lemon  juice. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  mould,  and  bake 
standing  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  until 
the  centre  seems  firm, —  about  an 
hour.  Serve  with  Hollandaise  or  other 
fish  sauce. 

Query  415. —  Mrs.  F.  B.  E.  Laconia, 
N.H.  :  "Recipes  for  a  cake  calling  for 
two  or  three  eggs  in  which  chocolate  is 
used  in  the  cake  mixture :  for  angel  cake 
taking  less  than  the  usual  nine  or  ten  eggs  : 
for  banana  or  other  fruit  fritters  with  a 
sauce.  Kindly  state  also  with  which 
course  of  a  dinner  fruit  fritters  would  be 
served." 

Chocolate  Cake 

Mix  and  bake  the  following  ingre- 
dients according  to  the  directions  given 
in  last  number,  adding  the  chocolate 
just  before  the  whites  of  the  eggs  : 
Half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
half  a  cup  of  milk,  two  cups  of  flour, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  three 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder, 
three  ounces  of  melted  chocolate,  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  the 
whites  of  three  eggs. 

Chocolate  Cake  No.  2 

Half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of 
sugar  mixed  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
cocoa,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  half  a 
cup  of  cold  water,  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract,  one  cup  and  two  level 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  three  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  the 
whites    of   three    eggs.     This    may  be 


baked    in  a   loaf,  but    small    tins    will 
give  the  best  result. 

Eggs  in  Angel  Cake 

The  recipe  for  angel  cake  is  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  general  rule  for  all 
sponge  cakes,  proper ;  that  is,  the 
weight  of  the  eggs  in  sugar  and  half 
the  weight  in  flour.  Given  by  meas- 
ure, it  is  one  cup  of  whites  of  eggs 
(whites  of  ten  eggs  usually),  one  cup  of 
sugar,  one  cup  of  flour.  A  proper 
measuring  cup  for  cooking  holds  ex- 
actly half  a  pint  (beer  measure). 
There  are  not  two  cups  of  milk  in  a 
pint  of  milk,  as  it  is  sold.  Half  this 
recipe  gives  a  cake  of  very  pretty  size. 
As  an  angel  cake  is  usually  flavored 
with  vanilla  rather  than  lemon  zest  or 
rind,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  to  a  cup  of  eggs  supplies  the 
place  of  the  lemon  juice  usually  put 
into  sponge  cake.  The  reason  for 
using  an  acid  in  this  connection  is  not 
thoroughly  understood. 

Banana  Fritters 

{Regulation  Style) 

Cut  six  bananas,  free  from  skin  and 
coarse  thread-like  covering,  in  halves 
crosswise,  then  again  lengthwise. 
Sift  over  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  sprinkle  with  four  or 
five  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  wine  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Let 
stand  half  an  hour,  then  drain.  Dip 
each  piece  separately  in  batter,  fry  in 
deep  fat,  drain  on  soft  paper,  and  dust 
with  powdered  sugar.  Serve  as  a  hot 
entremet  either  with  or  without  a 
sauce.  Fruit  fritters  are  also  often 
served  as  an  entree,  and  are  brought 
in  with  or  just  following  the  piece  de 
I'esistance  of  the  dinner. 


i88 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


Fritter  Batter 

Sift  a  cup  of  pastry  flour,  add  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir 
in  gradually  between  half  and  two- 
thirds  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water.  Add 
also  a  tabiespoonful  of  oil  and  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  then  fold  in 
the  whites  of  two  stiff-beaten  eggs. 
Let  stand  some  time  before  using. 

Lemon  Sauce 

Cook  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one-third 
a  cup  of  water  five  minutes  after  boiling 
begins,  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Add 
a  tabiespoonful  of  butter  and  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon ;  or  add  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  currant  jelly  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Baked  Bananas 

[Banafta  Fritters  Modernized) 

Select  six  or  eight  bananas,  strip  up 
a  section  of  skin  from  each  banana 
and  loosen  the  pulp  from  the  skin ; 
return  the  skin  to  its  original  position 
and  bake  the  bananas  in  a  hot  oven, 
until  the  skin  is  discolored  and  the 
pulp  softened  a  little  throughout.  Re- 
move the  pulps  from  the  skins,  and 
pour  over  them  currant  jelly  sauce. 
The  bananas  and  sauce  may  be 
sprinkled  with  fine-chopped  almonds 
or  pistachios,  or  they  may  be  rolled 
in  macaroon  crumbs.  The  sauce  is 
poured  about  them. 

Currant-jelly  Sauce 

Beat  half  a  cup  of  currant  jelly  with 
a  fork.  Then  dissolve  in  two-thirds  a 
cup  of  boiling  water,  and  thicken  with 
a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  arrowroot 
mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cold 
water.       Just    before    serving,    add   a 


tabiespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  lemon 
juice. 

Query  416. —  A.  H.  Harlem,  New 
York.  "  How  shall  I  know  when  to  add 
salt  in  cooking  vegetables?  How  roast  a 
duck  or  goose  ?     What  kind  of  dressing  ?  " 

Use  of  Salt  in  Boiling  Vegetables 

Salt  is  added  to  vegetables  for  savor 
and,  in  some  cases,  to  help  retain  the 
color  of  green-colored  vegetables,  as 
spinach,  peas,  asparagus,  etc.  Salt 
tends  to  draw  out  the  juices  and 
toughen  fibre.  Consequently,  if  you  pre- 
fer color  and  savor  to  texture,  or  if  you 
know  the  vegetables  are  quickly  grown, 
fresh,  and  tender,  use  salt.  If  the 
vegetables  are  wilted  and  in  conse- 
quence liable  to  be  tough,  add  the  salt 
just  as  they  are  done,  thereby  sacrific- 
ing color  to  tenderness.  Potatoes, 
either  white  or  sweet,  that  are  usually 
tender  when  boiled,  are  best  boiled  in 
salted  water. 

Roasted  Goose  and  Duck 

Both  geese  and  ducks  are  commonly 
roasted  without  dressing.  If  desired, 
the  potato  dressing  given  in  the  pre- 
ceding issue  of  the  magazine  may  be 
used.  A  goose  is  usually  washed  upon 
the  outside  with  hot  soap  suds.  In 
trussing,  fasten  the  legs  close  to  the 
body  and  the  wings  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  round  up  the  breast  as  much  as 
possible.  Cook  a  goose  about  an 
hour  without  dredging  with  flour ; 
then  pour  off  all  the  fat  in  the  pan, 
fasten  pork  over  the  breast,  and  baste 
with  the  dripping  from  this  and  the 
goose,  to  which  a  little  hot  water  is 
added ;  or  quite  frequently  all  fat  is 
discarded  in  basting,  hot  water  or 
broth  being  used.     A  *' green  "  goose, 


Queries  and  Answers 


189 


one  four  months  old,  will  cook  in  from 
one  hour  and  a  half  to  three  hours. 
Cook  until  the  joints  separate  easily. 
Serve  with  apple  sauce.  Ducks  are 
basted  as  soon  as  the  initial  "  searing 
over "  is  accomplished.  A  domestic 
duck  requires  an  hour  or  more  of 
cooking.  If  toughness  be  feared, 
steam  one  hour  before  roasting.  Wild 
ducks  are  served  rare,  and  are  cooked 
in  thirty  or  forty  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven.  Serve  wild  ducks  with  currant 
jelly,  olive  or  orange  salad.  Goose- 
berry sauce  is  served  with  roast  goose. 


Query  417.  Miss  F.  G.  R.,  Gardiner, 
Maine :  "  Recipe  for  chocolate  and  va- 
nilla caramels." 

Chocolate  Caramels 

Stir  together  over  the  fire  one  cup 
of  molasses,  half  a  cup  of  granulated 
sugar,  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  water 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two 
squares  or  ounces  of  chocolate.  Stir 
until  the  chocolate  melts,  then  cook  with- 
out stirring,  until  a  little  tried  in  cold 
water  may. be  formed  into  a  firm  ball. 
Flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
and  turn  into  a  rectangular  pan  to 
cool.  When  firm,  but  not  quite  cold, 
cut  into  small  squares.  The  fire  must 
be  quite  low  for  the  last  of  the  cook- 
ing, or  the  mixture  will  burn. 

Vanilla  Caramels 

Put  over  the  fire  two  cups  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  half  a  cup  of  cream,  one- 
fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  molasses  and 
butter.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Then  let  cook  without  stir- 
ring from  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  or 
until  a  firm  ball  may  be  formed  in  cold 


water.  Flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  and  beat  until  creamy.  Turn 
into  a  buttered  pan  of  such  size  that 
the  mixture  will  be  about  an  inch  thick. 
When  firm,  but  not  too  cold,  cut  into 
small  squares.  Substitute  one-fourth 
a  pound  of  melted  chocolate  for  the 
molasses,  if  desired. 

Vanilla  Caramels  v^ith  Glucose 

Stir  half  a  can  of  condensed  milk 
into  a  cup  of  sweet  cream  or  milk. 
When  evenly  blended,  add  three-fourths 
a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  (one  cup 
and  a  half)  and  six  ounces  of  glu- 
cose. Cook  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring 
constantly,  until  a  little  tried  in  ice- 
water  forms  a  hard  ball  that  softens  a 
little  between  the  fingers.  Stir  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  pour  into  a 
buttered  pan  of  such  size  that  the 
candy  will  be  about  three-fourths  an 
inch  thick.  When  cold,  turn  from  the 
pan  and  cut  in  cubes. 

Vanilla  Caramels  with  Cherries 

When  beating  the  vanilla  caramel 
mixture,  add  about  a  dozen  candied 
cherries  cut  in  halves. 

Vanilla  Caramels  with  Nuts 

Add  the  meats  from  about  a  dozen 
English  walnuts  broken  into  halves. 


Query  418.  Mrs.  H.  H.  D.,  New 
York  :  "  Kindly  pubHsh  a  recipe  for  plain 
caramel  filling  without  chocolate.  The 
one  I  have  invariably  curdles  while  cook- 
ing.    Also  a  recipe  for  soft  sugar  cookies." 

Caramel  Frosting 

Scald  one  cup  of  milk  or,  better  still, 
use  half  a  cup  of  condensed  milk  and 
half  a  cup  of  water,  add  two  cups  of 


90 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


brown  sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  and  boil  until  a  soft  ball  can  be 
formed  when  tried  in  cold  water,  about 
236  degrees  F.  by  the  sugar  thermom- 
eter. It  will  take  rather  more  than 
half  an  hour.  Beat  until  of  the  right 
consistency  to  spread,  and  spread  very 
quickly,  because  it  hardens  quickly. 

Soft  Sugar  Cookies 

Cream  a  cup  of  butter.  Add  grad- 
ually two  cups  of  sugar,  two  eggs, 
beaten  without  separating,  and,  alter- 
nately, one  cup  of  milk  and  four  cups 
of  flour,  sifted  with  two  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  If  desired  more 
soft,  use  less  butter  or  more  milk. 
Take  out  in  small  portions  upon  a 
floured  board,  and  knead  slightly. 
Roll  to  three-eighths  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  into  rounds,  sprinkle  with  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


Query  419. —  Mrs.  A.  E.  S.,  Detroit, 
Mich. :  "  Kindly  tell  me  if  I  can  purchase 
a  chafing  dish  that  may  be  heated  with 
gas  instead  of  alcohol,  and  where  ?  " 

Chafing-dish  Heated  with  Gas 

Any  chafing-dish  may  be  heated 
with  gas  or  electricity,  if  it  be  con- 
nected with  the  supply.  A  local  gas 
or  electric  company  will  fit  a  gas 
burner  or  electric  stove  inside  the 
frame  of  a  chafing-dish,  then,  with  rub- 
ber tubing  for  gas  and  flexible  cord  for 
electricity,  either  may  be  connected 
with  the  supply  that  is  used  for  light- 
ing the  room.  Portable  frames  fitted 
with  gas  burners  and  with  rubber  tub- 
ing attached,  upon  which  the  hot-water 
pan  or  blazer  is  set  for  cooking,  may 
be  purchased  at  stores  where  gas  ap- 
pliances are  kept. 


Query  420.— Mrs.  R.  T.  H.  H.,  New 
York :  "  Recipe  for  cheese  timbales, 
served  hot  with  a  sauce." 

Cheese  Timbales 
Make  a  sauce  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls,  each,  of  butter  and  flour  and  half 
a  cup,  each,  of  thin  cream,  white  stock, 
and  milk.  Melt  in  this  half  a  pound  of 
grated  cheese,  add  a  dash  of  salt  and 
paprika,  and  pour  over  three  whole 
eggs  and  the  yolks  of  four  beaten  until 
a  spoonful  can  be  taken  up.  Turn 
into  buttered  timbale  moulds  and  bake 
standing  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  (the 
w^ater  should  not  boil)  until  the  centres 
are  firm.  Serve  hot  with  cream  or 
tomato  sauce. 


Query  421.- 
Deland  cakes." 


Recipe    for    Margaret 


Margaret  Deland   Cakes 

Beat  two  eggs  slightly ;  add  half  a 
cup  of  brown  sugar,  then  half  a  cup  of 
flour,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing-powder and  one-third  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt  sifted  together.  When  well 
mixed,  stir  in  one  cup  of  pecan  nuts 
cut  in  small  pieces.  Put  the  mixture 
into  small  well-buttered  tins,  with  a 
pecan  nut  meat  in  the  centre  of  each 
cake.     Bake  about  fifteen  minutes. 


Query  422. —  Mrs.  N.  D.  T.,  Pasadena, 
Gal. :  "  Recipes  for  sauce  ravigotte  for 
fried  smelts,  cream  soups,  and  fillets  of 
beef  minion,  bordelaise." 

Sauce  Ravigotte 

Chop  fine  two  shallots ;  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  let  sim- 
mer until  reduced  one-half.  Add  a 
cup  of  sauce  made  with  white  stock. 
Finish  with  a  little  fine-chopped  tar- 
ragon,   chervil,  and  parsley,  and   add 


Queries  and  Answers 


191 


two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  bits. 
Ravigotte  butter  would  be  quite  as 
good,  if  not  better,  for  fried  fish  of  any 
kind.  A  recipe  for  this  was  given  on 
page  4  of  the  June  and  July  issue. 

Cream  Soups 

Cream  soups,  in  the  main,  consist  of 
a  combination  of  white  sauce  and 
vegetable  or  fish  pulp.  The  pulp  is 
rather  thin,  as  the  liquid  in  which  the 
vegetable  is  cooked  is  also  used. 
When  too  thin,  it  should  be  reduced  by 
evaporation.  A  general  formula  would 
be  one  part  pulp  to  two  parts  liquid 
for  the  sauce. 

If  the  resultant  soup  be  too  thick,  add 
milk  or  stock,  or,  what  is  tetter  than 
either,  from  half  to  a  whole  cup  of  hot 
cream  for  each  three  pints  of  soup. 
Yolks  of  eggs,  one  or  more,  beaten  and 
diluted  with  cream,  may  be  added  at 
the  last  for  additional  thickening  and 
richness.  The  soup  must  not  boil  after 
the  eggs  are  added,  or  it  will  become 
"  curdled." 

Cream  of  Cauliflower 
Soak  the  cauliflower  head  down- 
ward in  salted  water,  then  cook  until 
tender.  Remove  some  of  the  best 
flowerets  to  serve  in  the  soup,  and  press 
the  rest  through  a  sieve.  Add  the 
water,  if  not  too  strong.  Scald  a  slice 
of  onion  in  twice  the  quantity  of  milk 
(if  the  pulp  is  very  thin,  diminish  the 
quantity  of  milk),  and  use  this  in  mak- 
ing the  sauce  for  the  soup.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  flowerets 
of  cauliflower. 

Fillets  Minion  a  la  Bordelaise 
Season  six  or  eight  rounds  of  steak 
cut  from  the  centre  of  a  beef  tender- 


loin with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  in 
olive  oil  and  roll  in  fresh  bread  crumbs, 
smooth  with  a  broad-bladed  knife,  and 
broil  rather  rare  over  a  clear  fire. 
Dish  in  a  circle  alternating  with  pieces 
of  bread,  of  same  shape  and  size, 
fried  in  oil.  Pour  a  Bordelaise  sauce 
in  the  centre,  and  serve  at  once. 

Bordelaise  Sauce 
Fry  half  a  tablespoonful  of  fine- 
chopped  shallot  and  a  bruised  clove  of 
garlic  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add 
a  glass  of  claret,  a  dash  of  cayenne, 
and  a  cup  of  espagnole  sauce.  Reduce 
to  the  proper  consistency,  then  add  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  lemon  juice  and 
chopped  parsley,  and  two  ounces  of 
beef  marrow  cut  in  rounds.  Serve  at 
once. 


Query  423. —  Mrs.  D.  S.  C,  Chicago, 
111. :  "  How  can  eggs  be  kept  from  break- 
ing or  cracking  while  boiling  ?  " 

Why  Eggs  crack  in  Boiling 

Heat  must  be  applied  to  all  parts  of 
the  shell  at  once,  else  the  shell  expanding 
unevenly  cracks  as  does  a  drinking 
glass,  or  glass  can,  when  hot  water  is 
poured  upon  one  side.  Eggs  cannot  be 
cooked  properly  in  boiling  water ;  and, 
if  they  be  put  with  a  spoon  into  water 
just  below  the  boiling-point,  and  allowed 
to  cook  in  the  water  at  that  tempera- 
ture, there  will  be  no  danger  of  crack- 
ing-   

Query  424. —  Mrs.  S.  P.  L.,  Mauch 
Chunk,  Pa. :  "  Recipes  for  kisses  and 
meringues  to  fill  with  ice-cream." 

Kisses  and  Meringues 

A  recipe  for  meringues  was  given  in 
the  October-November  issue  of  this 
magazine.  Kisses  are  the  same  mixt- 
ure shaped  in  very  small  rounds. 


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The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


Query  425. —  Mrs.  M.  V.  B.,  Atchison, 
Kan. :  *'  In  making  cake  from  bread  dough, 
ought  it  to  be  kneaded  as  stiff  as  dough, 
or  be  beaten  into  a  batter,  as  in  ordinary 
cake?"  Recipes  for  "Lemon  Cheese 
Cakes,"  "  Sweet  and  Irish  Potato-pies," 
"  Gingerbread,"  "  Lemon  Jelly  made  with 
Gelatine,"  "  Green  Sour  Pickles,"  and 
good  doughnuts  with  explicit  directions 
for  frying. 

Cake  from  Bread  Dough 
Use  ordinary  bread  dough  when 
light  and  just  ready  to  shape  into 
loaves.  Add  the  other  ingredients,  and 
beat  with  the  hands  or  hand  until  the 
mixture  becomes  a  smooth  batter. 

Lemon  Cheese  Cakes 
Pass  enough  cottage  cheese  through 
a  colander  to  make  one  cup  and  a  half. 
Add  one-third  a  cup  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  one  tablespoonful 
of  melted  butter,  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  a  lemon,  three  eggs  beaten 
until  light,  and  half  a  cup  of  citron  and 
currants  cut  in  small  pieces.  Beat  until 
smooth.  Line  small  tins  with  pastry. 
Fill  with  the  cheese  mixture,  and  bake 
about  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  firm  to 
the  touch.  Sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar,  and  serve  when  partly  cooled. 

Potato  Pie  (Mrs.  Henderson) 
Beat  one  pound  of  sugar  and  three- 
fourths  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream. 
Add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
two  pounds  of  boiled  potatoes,  sifted, 
and  mixed  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
one  cup  of  wine,  three  cups  of  rich 
milk,  and,  lastly,  the  whites  of  six  eggs 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  with  an 
under  crust  only. 

Lemon  Jelly 
Soak  half  a  package  of  gelatine   in 
half  a  cup  of  cold  water,  and  dissolve 


in  two  cups  of  boiling  water.  Add  one 
cup  of  sugar,  and,  when  cooled  a  little, 
one  cup  of  lemon  juice,  strain  into  a 
mould,  and  put  aside  to  become  ''  set." 
This  should  ''  set,"  in  a  cool  place 
without  ice,  in  five  or  six  hours.  If 
wished  sooner,  cut  down  the  quantity 
of  hot  water. 

Gingerbread 

Sift  together  two  cups  and  one-third 
of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of 
soda,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  ginger.  Mix  one-third 
a  cup  of  melted  butter,  one  cup  of  mo- 
lasses, and  one  cup  of  thick  sour  milk, 
and  stir  into  the  dry  ingredients.  Bake 
in  a  shallow  pan  about  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Green  Sour  Pickles 

Use  a  cup  of  salt  to  a  peck  of  cu- 
cumbers or  green  tomatoes  sliced.  Put 
in  a  stone  jar  in  layers  with  the  salt, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  let  stand 
over  night.  In  the  morning  drain  off 
the  brine,  scald,  and  again  pour  over 
the  vegetables.  Let  stand  over  night, 
drain,  and  heat  an  equal  quantity  of 
vinegar  with  the  vegetables,  and,  when 
scalded,  set  aside  until  the  next  day. 
Scald  enough  vinegar  to  cover  the 
pickles  with  four  green  or  red  peppers, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  whole  cloves, 
and  a  piece  of  horseradish.  Add  the 
pickles,  and,  when  scalded,  store  in 
jars.  If  a  soft  pickle  be  desired,  cook 
longer  in  the  brine.  If  a  crisp  pickle 
be  preferred,  add  a  piece  of  alum  the 
size  of  a  hickory  nut  to  the  first  vine- 
gar. If  a  very  green  color  be  chosen, 
line  the  kettle  in  which  the  pickles  are 
scalded  with  grape  leaves,  also  cover 
the  top  of  the  pickles  with  leaves. 


Queries  and  Answers 


193 


Doughuts 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  flour,  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  half  a  cup 
of  sugar  (granulated).  Beat  two  eggs 
until  light  and  thick,  then  beat  in  grad- 
ually three  level  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
milk,  and  stir  the  liquid  into  the  dry 
ingredients.  Take  a  small  portion  of 
dough  onto  the  board  dusted  with 
flour.  Toss  with  a  knife  until  slightly 
floured,  then  pat  out  half  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  in  rings  or  in  strips  that  may  be 
twisted,  and  fry  in  deep  fat  at  such  a 
temperature  that  the  cake  rises  almost 
instantly  to  the  surface  and  is  not 
browned  on  the  under  side.  Turn 
frequently,  and  cook  from  four  to  six 
minutes. 

Query  426. —  Mrs.  F.  B.,  Philadelphia, 
Pa. :  "  Kindly  give  recipe  for  plunketts, 
also  some  new  ideas  for  an  engagement 
luncheon." 

Plunketts 
Cream  one  cup  of  butter ;  gradually 
add  one  cup  of  sugar.  Beat  the 
whites  of  six  eggs  until  dry,  and  the 
yolks  until  light-colored  and  thick. 
Add  the  yolks  to  the  whites  with  a 
cutting  and  folding  motion.  Sift  to- 
gether, twice,  half  a  cup  of  flour, 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  corn-starch,  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
Add  the  beaten  eggs  to  the  butter 
and  sugar  gradually,  then  add  the  dry 
ingredients,  and,  at  the  last,  a  tea- 
spoonful of  vanilla  extract.  Bake  in 
individual  tins,  buttered. 

"  Engagement "  Luncheon 

If  the  luncheon  be  given  to  an- 
nounce the  engagement  of  a  member 
or   guest    of   the   family,  with  a  wide, 


long  ribbon  tie  a  bunch  of  pink  chrys- 
anthemums or  pinks  to  the  chair  to 
be  occupied  by  this  particular  young 
woman.  Use  the  same  flower  for  the 
floral  decorations  of  the  table.  Some 
of  the  dishes  in  the  following  menu 
may  be  acceptable  :  — 

MENU 

Salpicon  of  Fruit  in  Orange  Cups. 

Chicken  Soup  a  la  Reine,  Two  Bread  Sticks. 

Lobster  Newburg  in  Casseroles. 

Breaded  Chops  a  la  Maintenon, 

Tomato  Sauce. 

Creamed  Peas  in  Timbale  Cases. 

Sweetbreads   or  Fillets   of   Chicken   in 

Aspic  Jelly,  Celery,  Mayonnaise  Dressing. 

Lemon   Cheese  Cakes,    Bar-le-duc    Preserves. 

Strawberry  Sherbet  and  Vanilla 

Cream-Panachee. 

Little  Cakes,  Bonbons. 

Cafe  Noir. 

Cut  the  oranges  in  halves  crosswise, 
and,  after  removing  the  pulp,  fasten  two 
corresponding  halves  together  with  a 
bit  of  pink  ribbon  passed  through  a 
slit  in  each  and  tied  with  the  bow  at 
the  top.  Fill  the  cups  with  maras- 
chino cherries  cut  in  halves,  white 
grapes,  skinned,  seeded,  and  cut  in 
halves,  and  the  pulp  and  juice  of  the 
oranges  mixed  with  a  little  sugar  or 
syrup.  Small  earthenware  casseroles  of 
Saaregemines  ware,  previously  heated, 
or  ordinary  shirring  dishes  may  be 
used  for  serving  the  Newburg.  Have 
the  chops  a  generous  inch  thick ;  cut 
through  nearly  to  the  bone  as  if  to 
separate  into  two  chops.  Spread  a 
cold  mixture  of  chopped  mushrooms 
cooked  in  butter  with  onion  juice,  and 
thickened  with  flour,  between  the  parts 
of  the  chops,  press  together,  egg-and- 
bread-crumb,  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  or,  if 
preferred,  they  may  be  broiled.  Cover 
the  end  of  the  bone  with  a  paper  frill, 
and  serve  the  peas  on  the  same  plate. 


ADDRESS    communications    for  this  department  to  Janet  M.   Hill,  Editor  of  the  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


At  the  Boston  Cooking-school  the 
normal  class  for  the  coming  year  is 
already  full.  The  seats  in  the  lecture- 
room  for  the  housekeepers'  class  are 
well  filled ;  and  as  usual,  at  the  cooks' 
class  on  Friday  evenings,  standing 
room  is  not  to  be  found.  More  pri- 
vate classes  than  usual  have  been 
formed,  and  everything  indicates  a 
prosperous  year.  Dr.  Elliot  Joslin, 
specialist  in  dietetics,  who  so  ably  con- 
ducted the  lectures  in  Physiology  and 
Hygiene  last  year,  has  been  engaged 
to  give  the  lectures  again  this  year. 
Dr.  Mark  Richardson  gives  the  lect- 
ures in  Bacteriology. 

Of  the  class  graduating  last  June, 
among  those  of  whom  no  previous  men- 
tion has  been  made,  Eloise  P.  Flood,  of 
Wollaston,  Mass.,  has  been  appointed 
supervisor  of  the  diet  kitchen  at  Grace 
Hospital,  Detroit,  Mich. 

Miss  Katherine  French  has  charge 
of  the  dietary  department  of  Lakeside 
Hospital,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 

Miss  Gertrude  Schwind  has  charge 
of  the  diet  kitchen  connected  with  St. 
Luke's  Hospital,  Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Jessie  Loveridge  has  just  en- 
tered upon  her  duties  in  connection 
with  the  diet  kitchen  of  the  Syracuse 
(N.  Y.)  Hospital  for  Women  and  Chil- 
dren. 

Abby  L.  Newhall  is  teaching  even- 


ing classes  connected  with  the  public 
schools  of  Lynn,  Mass. 

Miss  Coral  R.  Havens  has  been  ap- 
appointed  teacher  of  cookery  in  the 
public  schools  of  Detroit,  Mich. 

Miss  Lillian  K.  Bates  is  in  charge 
of  the  diet  kitchen  at  the  Butterworth 
Hospital,  Grand  Rapids,  Mich. ;  and 
Emily  Anderson  is  teaching  cookery 
in  a  private  school  for  young  women 
in  a  Western  city. 


Miss  Stella  Dodge,  class  of  '99,  for- 
merly in  charge  of  the  diet  kitchen  at 
Hamat  Hospital,  resigned  her  position 
at  the  beginning  of  the  school  year  to 
take  charge  of  the  Erie  (Pa.)  School 
of  Domestic  Science.  The  school  has 
opened  with  a  large  attendance  and 
much  enthusiasm. 


(E^       Rely  upon 

BmChlom 


as  your  household 
disinfectant. 


An  odorless,  colorless  liquid ; 
powerful,  safe,  and  cheap. 

Destroys  disease  germs  and 
noxious  gases,  thus  preventing 
sickness.  Sold  in  quart  bottles 
only,  by  druggists  and  high-class 
grocers.  Prepared  only  by  Henry 
B.  Piatt,  Piatt  Street,  New  York. 


I 


News  and   Notes 


195 


Miss    Bertha  C.    Prentiss,   class    of 

'99,    has    been  appointed    teacher    of 

cookery  in  the  public  schools  of  Los 
Angeles,  Cal. 

Invitations  for  the  opening  day  of 
the  Domestic  Science  Training  School, 
53  Dearborn  Street,  Chicago,  are  here 
acknowledged.  Mrs.  E.  O.  Hiller,  class 
of  '98,  is  principal  of  this  school. 


The  Home  Science  Bureau  of  the 
Business  Woman's  Exchange  gave  a 
Home  Science  Reception  at  the  Chi- 
cago Woman's  Club,  Fine  Arts  Build- 
ing, November  8.  The  object  of  the 
reception  was  to  give  household  work- 
ers an  opportunity  to  exhibit  their  skill 
and  to  encourage  the  scientific  study 
of  domestic  science.  Prizes  were  of- 
fered for  dishes  of  various  kinds,  all 
of  which  were  to  be  exhibited  cold. 
Soups,  fish,  meats,  salads,  desserts, 
bread,  cakes,  sauces,  and  dishes  made 
from  left-overs  were  included  in  the 
list;  and  three  prizes  were  given  in 
each  class.  Prizes  w-ere  also  given 
for  laundry  work,  mending,  and  menus. 
Medals  were  given  to  those  who  had 
been  in  the  service  of  one  employer 
ten  years  or  more.  Exhibitions  were 
given  in  chafing-dish  cookery,  sewing, 
and  dressmaking. 


Mrs.  Alice  Carey  Waterman,  of  Chi- 
cago, has  had  a  successful  season  of 
engagements  with  clubs,  gas  compa- 
nies, and  Chautauqua  Assemblies,  in 
demonstration  lectures  in  cookery. 
She  is  planning  for  interesting  work 
this  wdnter. 

Miss  Sarah  E.  Woodworth-Craig  is 
in  charge  of  the  Household  Economic 
Department  of  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  at  Cin- 


cinnati, and  has  full  classes  at  the 
rooms  in  the  evenings.  These,  to- 
gether with  demonstrations  on  the 
chafing-dish,  hospital  work,  and  meals 
in  the  tenements,  will  make  for  her  a 
busy  season  this  wdnter.  She  has  just 
returned  from  a  course  of  lectures  in 
Chicago. 


FOOD    IN    NEW  YORK. 

An  Experienced  Physician's  Work. 

Dr.  Hylande  MacGrath,  in  experimenting 
on  the  result  of  food  on  his  own  body,  says  : 
''  After  eating  four  heaping  teaspoons  of 
Grape-Nuts  with  a  little  cream,  I  had  occa- 
sion to  walk  about  fourteen  miles,  and  was 
surprised  at  my  feeling  of  strength  and 
buoyancy.  On  other  occasions,  when  I 
have  taken  careful  note  of  my  feelings  and 
sensations,  I  have  discovered  that  intellect- 
ual tasks  are  comparatively  easy  when 
using  Grape-Nuts  at  each  meal. 

"  Of  course,  I  understand  that  the  theory 
regarding  Grape-Nuts  is  practically  perfect. 
That  is,  the  food  contains  elements  that 
are  well  known,  and,  furnished  in  a  concen- 
trated and  quite  delicious  form,  it  is  reason- 
able to  expect  results ;  but  the  physical 
demonstration  of  these  results  is  more 
satisfactory,  always,  than  the  mere  state- 
ment of  theory. 

"  Grape-Nuts,  combined  with  fruit  and 
seasonable  vegetables,  I  prescribe  to  ailing 
women  and  delicate  men,  and  have  not  had 
a  case  yet  that  has  not  furnished  gratifying 
results.  A  nervous,  irritable  man  of  seventy- 
two  became  fat  and  amiable  using  Grape- 
Nuts  food  as  a  regular  (but  not  exclusive) 
diet. 

"  I  have  found  slender,  anaemic  girls 
improved  rapidly  in  health,  spirits,  weight, 
and  looks,  on  Grape-Nuts  food.  It  w^ould 
be  a  blessing  to  thousands  of  such  girls  if 
this  food  was  used  more  largely  in  board- 
ing-schools and  seminaries,  not  to  be  ad- 
ministered as  medicine,  but  as  a  pure, 
healthful,  and  highly  nourishing  food." 
Dr.  MacGrath  lives  at  96  Fifth  Avenue, 
New  York. 


196 


The  Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


Cooking  at  Wisconsin  State  Fair 

We  print  with  pleasure  an  *'  Outline 
of  Work"  planned  by  Mrs.  Helen  Arm- 
strong for  her  classes  at  the  Wisconsin 
State  Fair,  held  last  September  at 
Milwaukee.  While  such  lessons  can 
be  more  successfully  conducted  in  a 
quiet  class-room  in  the  presence  of  an 
earnest,  attentive  audience,  yet  the 
women  in  the  constantly  shifting  crowd 
at  a  fair  are  the  very  ones  who  need 
such  instruction  most ;  and  this  course 
in  cookery  seems  a  step  in  the  right 
direction.  The  idea  has  gone  abroad 
too  widely,  because  a  subject  is  apt  to 
be  viewed  superficially  at  first,  that 
the  study  of  cookery  has  nothing  in  it 
save  that  which  appeals  to  the  eye  and 
taste.  Let  us  hope  there  will  be  more 
of  this  or  similar  work  done  in  the 
future. 

General  Outline 

1.  Food  and  its  uses  in  the  human 
system. 

2.  Properties  of  food,  its  nutritive  value 
and  digestibility. 

3.  Selection  of  food  dependent  upon — 
(i)  Climate. 

(2)  Age. 

(3)  Health. 

(4)  Occupation. 

(5)  Individual  needs. 

4.  Food  materials  used  and  their  prep- 
aration as  influencing  the  physical,  mental, 
and  moral  welfare. 

5.  Food  materials  properly  combined 
and  advantages  of  a  varied  diet. 

6.  Preparation  of  foods  to  insure  com- 
binations   both   healthful  and  economical. 

7.  Domestic  economy  in  time,  strength, 
and  expense. 

First  Lesson 
Meats 

1.  Their  composition. 

2.  Principles  involved  in  cooking, 

3.  Methods  — 
ia)  Broiling. 
{b)  Roasting. 
{c)  Stewing. 
{d)  Frying. 


4.  Selection  of  meats,  use  of  various 
cuts,  and  economical  preparation.  Soup 
and  its  value. 

5.  Comparative  digestibility  of  different 
meats. 

The  programme  was  prepared  with 
especial  thought  as  to  economy  and  to 
illustrate  the  possibilities  and  advan- 
tages of  meals  made  both  palatable 
and  attractive. 

BAD    DREAMS. 

Caused  by  Coffee. 

"  I  have  been  a  coffee  drinker,  more  or 
less,  ever  since  I  can  remember,  until  a  few 
months  ago  I  became  more  and  more 
nervous  and  irritable,  and  finally  I  could 
not  sleep  at  night,  for  I  was  horribly  dis- 
turbed by  dreams  of  all  sorts  and  a  species 
of  distressing  nightmare. 

"  Finally,  after  hearing  the  experience  of 
numbers  of  friends  who  had  quit  coffee  and 
gone  to  drinking  Postum  Food  Coffee,  and 
learning  of  the  great  benefits  they  had  de- 
rived, I  concluded  coffee  must  be  the 
cause  of  my  trouble,  so  I  got  some  Postum 
Food  Coffee  and  had  it  made  strictly  ac- 
cording to  directions. 

"I  was  astonished  at  the  flavor  and 
taste.  It  entirely  took  the  place  of  coffee, 
and,  to  my  very  great  satisfaction,  I  began 
to  sleep  peacefully  and  sweetly.  My  nerves 
improved,  and  I  wish  I  could  warn  every 
man,  woman,  and  child  from  the  unwhole- 
some drug,  ordinary  coffee. 

"  People^  really  do  not  appreciate  or 
realize  what  a  powerful  drug  it  is  and 
what  terrible  effect  it  has  on  the  human 
system.  If  they  did,  hardly  a  pound  of  it 
would  be  sold.  I  would  never  think  of 
going  back  to  coffee  again.  I  would  almost 
as  soon  think  of  putting  my  hand  in  a  fire 
after  I  had  once  been  burned. 

"  A  young  lady  friend  of  ours.  Miss 
Emily  Pierson,  had  stomach  trouble  for  a 
long  time,  and  could  not  get  well  as  long 
as  she  used  coffee.  She  finally  quit  coffee 
and  began  the  use  of  Postum  Food  Coffee, 
and  is  now  perfectly  well.  Yours  for  health. 

Don't  publish  my  name.''     ,  Herington, 

Kansas.  Name  given  by  Postum  Cereal 
Company,  Limited,  Battle  Creek,  Michigan. 


nrk. 

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The 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  V. 


FEBRUARY  and  MARCH. 


No.  5. 


Old  Oak  Sideboard  and  Ancient  Cooking  Utensils  at  Royal  School  of  Art  Needlework, 

South  Kensington 

From  "Ye  Art  of  Cookery  in  Ye  Olden  Time,"  by  H.  Senn. 


Some  Famous  Cooks 

Bv  Frances  H.  Howard 


J4M0NG  the  earlier  cooks  of 
/  \  whom  history  makes  mention 
Jl  jLhttle  is  known  save  the  name, 
for  the  newspaper  was  not ;  and  re- 
porters were  a  race  yet  to  be  created. 
Yet  we  know  that  cooks  were  prized 
and   paid,    and  that  they  were  proud 


and  jealous  of  the  honor  of  their  pro- 
fession. 

Appreciation  of  good  cooking  natu- 
rally led  to  good  cooks  ;  and  as  early  as 
329  B.C.  Aristotle  writes,  "It  is  less  a 
rebuke  for  a  man  to  be  busy  to  know 
what  is  done  in  his  kitchen  than  for  a 


198 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


woman  to  know  what  is  done  without 
her  house." 

It  was  early  in  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury that  Vatel  saw  fit  to  commit  suicide 
because  the  expressman  was  late  in 
delivering  his  fish  ;  yet  even  that  act 
was  applauded,  while  his  employer 
wept,  though  whether  at  the  loss  of  his 
cook  or  the  delay  to  his  dinner  history 
doesn't  state. 

Still  earlier,  it  was  said  that  the  chef 
employed  by  the  Prince  de  Soubise 
was  "a  man  of  true  science.'' 

Among  French  lovers  of  the  art 
may  be  mentioned  the  Duke  of  Orleans, 
who  invented  several  dishes,  as  did 
also  his  daughter,  the  Duchess  of 
Berri.  A  sort  of  family  accomplish- 
ment, it  seems. 

The  Duchess  de  Villeroi  created 
the  famed  poidets  a  la  llHe/vi,  and 
Marie  Leczinska,  who  married  Henry 
XV.,  was  known  for  delicious  pate's 
called  bouchees  a  la  reiiie ;  and  cbtelettes 
a  la  Maiiitejwfi  were  first  introduced 
by  Madame  Maintenon.  Madame 
le  Pompadour,  wdth  a  woman's  wit, 
when  she  found  her  power  over  Henry 
XV.  was  waning,  renewed  it  by  con- 
cocting new  dishes,  and  thus  held  sway 
by  means  of  his  stomach  after  she  had 
lost  his  heart. 

Beauvilliers  was  sometimes  called 
the  head  of  the  classical  school  of  his 
art.  He  was  remarkable  for  judg- 
ment and  adaptability,  and,  while  rigidly 
adhering  to  well-known  and  thoroughly 
tried  methods,  w^as  capable  of  adapt- 
ing and  grouping  ingredients — so  to 
speak  —  as  to  give  new  results. 

Cooks  from  the  first  assumed  a 
position  of  importance,  from  which 
possibly  a  perversion  of  the  law  of 
heredity  may  explain  some  phenomena 
of  the  modern  Intelligence  Office. 


The  popular  idea  that  all  chefs  are 
French  is  justifiable,  perhaps,  frona 
their  number  and  celebrity.  In  France 
the  profession  of  chef'is  reputable.  It 
involves  a  broad  education  and  care- 
ful study,  the  mastery  of  several  lan- 
guages, and  a  thorough  training  in 
all  the  various  departments,  which  in 
the  kitchen  are  placed  in  the  hands  of 
specialists. 

In  the  seventeenth  century  it  was  said 
by  an  authority,  ''  The  master  cook 
should  be  a  man  of  years,  well  ex- 
perienced, whereby  the  younger  cooks 
will  be  drawn  the  better  to  obey  his 
directions.'' 

Professional  cooks  began  to  appear 
in  England  soon  after  the  conquest.  Of 
these  history  speaks  particularly  of 
Joseph  Cook,  who  was  chief  cook  to 
Charles  I.,  and  had  the  courage  to 
place  often  before  his  Majesty  oatmeal 


Kitchen  in  the  Seventeentli  Century 


Some  Famous  Cooks 


199 


pudding,  hasty  pudding  in  a  bag,  and 
other  simple  dishes. 

Louis  Eustache  Ude,  often  called 
"  the  great  Ude,"  who  had  presided 
over  the  kitchen  of  Louis  XVL,  went 
afterward  to  England,  and  was  employed 
by  the  Earl  of  Sefton  and  others. 

In  1665  Mr  Joseph  Cooper,  "  Chief 
cook  to  the  late  King,"  published  "  The 
Art  of  Cookery,  refined  and  aug- 
mented," which  reached  a  third  edi- 
tion. It  is  probable  that  the  first  cook- 
book was  published  in  England  in  1360, 
though  Spain  has  claimed  this  honor. 

A  wonderful  chef^  of  whom  the  gas- 


vented  for  the  pope.  And  naturally, 
perhaps,  the  first  invention  of  his 
descendant  was  a  sauce  for  fast-din- 
ners. 

Careme  studied  all  the  literature  of 
his  art  obtainable,  and  made  himself  an 
authority  in  matters  pertaining  to  it. 
He  began  with  "  roasting  "  under  spe- 
cialists, then  perfected  himself  in  sauces, 
under  still  another  specialist,  and  so  on, 
till  finally  he  "finished"  under  Robert 
L'Aine. 

With  such  knowledge  and  training, 
he  was  naturally  in  great  demand,  and 
for  a  few  months,  at  a  salary  of  five 


From  Fratt  Institute  Monthly 


A  Monk's  Kitchen 


tronomic  world  took  much  note,  was 
Careme.  He  was  a  Uneal  descendant 
of  that  celebrated  chef  of  Pope  Leo  X. 
who  was  called  Jean  de  Careme  —  Jack 
of    Lent  —  because    of   a    soup  he  in- 


thousand  a  year,  served  George  IV., 
but  resigned,  because  the  bill  of  fare 
was  too  simple  to   suit  his  taste. 

The  Emperors  of  Russia  and  Austria 
both  sought  his  services,  and  it  is  evi- 


200 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


dent  that  he  was  possessed  of  the  arro- 
gance of  conscious  value :  for.  after 
promising  to  go  to  Russia  at  five  hun- 
dred dollars  a  month,  he  went  to  Aus- 
tria, taking  care,  however,  to  have  his 
movements  known,  so  that,  later,  he 
went  to  Russia,  where  he  stayed  only  a 
short  time  because  his  household  ex- 
pense book  was  overlooked.  History 
repeats  itself. 

Careme  at  one  time  served  as  chef 
to  Napoleon  the  Great,  but  it  seems 
doubtful  whether  he  recognized  any 
superior  genius  in  the  latter.  Finally, 
he  condescended  to  join  the  household 
of  Baron  Rothschild  in  Paris,  where 
he  once  served  a  dinner  which  so  en- 
chanted the  famous  Lady  Morgan  that 
she  asked  permission  for  the  c/iefto  be 
presented  to  her ;  whereupon  he  was 
summoned  to  the  sa/oN.  This  seems 
to  be  an  experiment  in  solving  the 
''  domestic  problem  "  that  has  not  yet 
been  fully  tested. 

Alexis  Soyer,  so  widely  known  as 
the  cook  who  w^ent  to  the  Crimea,  was 
born  about  1800.  He  lived  in  London 
for  some  years,  and  served  as  cook  at 
the  Reform  Club.  While  in  the  East, 
he  revolutionized  the  system  of  camp- 
cooking,  and  introduced  an  intelligent 
method,  which  greatly  enhanced  the 
health  and  efficiency  of  the  army.  His 
fame  as  a  cook  at  the  club  probably 
did  more  to  secure  his  immortality 
than  the  wonderful  and  world-helping 


work  he  did  in  the  army  :  but  from  the 
cJicf^s  standpoint  he  was  doubtless 
content.  He  wrote  several  books,. but 
they  are  rarely  mentioned  in  the  gen- 
eral world. 

Bechamel,  having  recommended  him- 
self to  the  palates  of  gastronomers, 
has  secured  renown.  While  serving 
Louis  XIV.,  he  was  the  means  of  giv- 
ing zest  to  the  glories  of  that  monarch, 
and  probably  of  consoling  him  in  his  de- 
cline ;  but  it  may  be  questioned  whether 
he  would  relinquish  the  honor  of  hav- 
ing given  his  name  to  a  sauce  for  any 
favors  which  Louis  could  have  be- 
stowed. 

Anthelme  Brillat-Savarin  was  born 
in  1755.  H^  ^^'^s  bred  to  the  law,  be- 
came judge  of  the  Court  of  Cassation, 
and  member  of  the  Legion  of  Honor, 
etc.  He  was  nevertheless  an  enthusi- 
astic cook.  During  the  Reign  of 
Terror,  he  fled  to  Switzerland,  and 
later  came  to  America,  where  he  made 
acquaintance  of  the  wild  turkey,  which 
so  engrossed  his  thoughts  that  even  the 
conversation  of  Jefferson  could  not 
wholly  hold  his  attention.  He  wrote 
several  books,  among  them  the  cele- 
brated *' Physiologie  du  Gout,"'  which 
ran  through  several  editions  and  trans- 
lations. Women  have  him  to  thank,  in 
that  he  proclaimed  it  was  neither  un- 
natural nor  unfeminine  for  a  woman  to 
enjoy  a  square  meal :  he  claimed  also 
\\\2i.\ gouniiandise  is  favorable  to  beauty. 


Barley  Bread.      For  recipe  see  page  224. 


Bread  and  Bread-making 


By  Janet  M.  Hill 
Part    II 


General     Directions    for     Mixing 
and   Baking  Bread 

Time  Needed  for  Bread-making. 
Now,  the  greater  the  number  of 
yeast  plants,  the  more  quickly,  other 
conditions  being  favorable,  will  the 
bread  be  lifted  up ;  and,  in  makino; 
bread,  we  take  this  fact  into  consider- 
ation. 

If  bread  is  to  be  made  quickly, 
two,  even  three,  compressed  yeast- 
cakes  may  be  used  to  a  pint  of  liquid. 
Thus  made,  the  whole  process  need 
not  take  over  three  hours.  If  dough 
is  to  be  mixed  at  night  and  baked  with 
the  first  fire  in  the  morning,  the  quan- 
tity of  yeast  may  be  reduced  to  one- 
third  a  cake  to  a  pint  of  liquid.  The 
longer  time  of  fermentation,  as  a  rule, 
gives  the  best-flavored  bread ;  for  the 
by-products  of  fermentation,  which  give 


a  peculiar  and  characteristic  sweetness 
to  the  loaf,  are  generated  during  the 
longer  process.  In  using  a  large 
amount  of  yeast,  we  may  improve  the 
flavor  of  the  bread,  at  the  expense  of 
time,  by  "  cutting  down "  the  dough 
once  or  twice  after  it  has  risen  to 
double  its  bulk. 

As  the  dough  quickly  rises  again 
after  a  part  of  the  gas  has  been  let  out, 
this  does  not  lengthen  the  process  to 
any  considerable  extent.  Still,  except 
during  extreme  heat,  when  souring  may 
be  anticipated,  the  method  fulfils  the 
requirements  of  occasional  rather  than 
general  practice. 

Proportions  of  the  Ingredients. 
The  quantity  of  liquid  rather  than 
the  quantity  of  flour  determines  the 
size  of  the  loaf.  Two  cups  of  liquid 
will  make  two  loaves  of  bread  of 
average    size ;    but,  whether    two,    two 


202 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


and  one-half,  or  three  portions  of  flour 
be  used  to  one  of  liquid,  the  difference 
will  be  one  of  texture  rather  than  of 
size.  Two  cups  of  liquid  will  be  found 
a  most  convenient  unit  of  measure- 
ment. With  this  use  from  one-third 
a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  to  one 
whole  cake,  or  even  two  or  three  cakes, 
according  to  the  length  of  time  to  be 
spent  in  the  operation,  softened  in 
half  a  cup  of  lukewarm  liquid.  If 
liquid  yeast  be  used,  take  half  a  cup 
to  two  cups  of  liquid  in  case  the 
dough  is  to  stand  over  night.  A  level 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  if  desired,  and  from  two  to 
three  pints  of  flour  complete  the  neces- 
sary ingredients. 

The  Utensils. —  A  heavy  earthen- 


bladed  knife.  A  knife  with  wooden 
handle  and  blade  an  inch  and  a  half 
wide  can  be  purchased  for  fifty  cents. 
A  close-fitting  tin  cover  with  three  or 
four  perforations  near  the  top  keeps 
the  dough  in  the  bowl  from  forming  a 
crust,  and  furnishes  means  of  escape 
for  gases.  The  favorite  pan  in  this 
country  for  baking  bread  is  about  eight 
inches  long,  four  inches  wide,  and  three 
inches  deep  :  two  of  these  are  required 
for  baking  bread  made  wdth  two  cups 
of  liquid.  Russia  iron  pans  of  French 
make,  in  which  two  or  more  long, 
round  loaves  are  baked  side  by  side, 
are  occasionally  used.  Cylindrical  pans 
with  covers  are  seen  on  the  market ; 
but  bread  is  more  wholesome  when 
baked  in  an  open  pan. 


Oatmeal   Biscuit.      For  recipe  see  page  239 


ware  bowl  holds  the  heat.  It  is  easily 
cleaned,  and  with  care  will  last  a  life- 
time. It  should  be  used  for  no  other 
purpose.  The  yellow  ware  is  prefera- 
ble. For  mixing  the  dough,  no  utensil 
is  more  easilv  handled    than  a  broad- 


Kneading  the  Dough. —  When  all 
the  flour  that  is  to  be  used  has  been 
added,  and  the  ingredients  have  been 
thoroughly  mixed,  scrape  the  dough 
from  the  bow^l  on  to  a  moulding  board 
lightly  dredged  with   flour.     Toss  with 


Bread  and  Bread-making 


203 


the  knife.  Then  with  finger-tips  lightly- 
floured  bring  forward  the  back  of  the 
dough,  without  pressing  the  fingers 
into  it.  Let  the  ball  of  the  hand, 
just  below  the  wrist,  meet  the  dough; 
press  down  upon  it,  and  move  it 
backward ;  then  the  tips  again  bring 
forward  the  back  of  the  dough ;  the 
ball  of  the  hand  meets  it,  and  repeats 
the  first  process ;  and  so  a  new  por- 
tion of  dough  is  brought  in  contact 
with  the  hands  at  each  downward 
pressure.  Occasionally  turn  the  dough 
half  way  around,  to  keep  it  in  a 
roundish  mass  :  continue  this  knead- 
ing process  until  the  mass  of  sticky 
paste  is  a  smooth,  elastic,  fine,  and 
even-grained  ball  of  dough.  Add  but 
little  flour  during  this  process,  and 
keep  the  crust  that  is  formed  by 
kneading  intact  by  keeping  the  dough 
in  motion,  and  never  allowing  the 
finger-tips  to  penetrate  it.  The  mass 
acquires  "body"  under  the  manipu- 
lation. When  elastic  and  full  of 
minute  air-bubbles,  it  has  been  kneaded 
enough. 

Object  of  Kneading  Dough. — 
Dough  is  kneaded  the  first  time  to 
distribute  evenly  the  little  yeast  plants 
and  other  ingredients,  to  give  body  to 
the  dough,  and  bring  out  the  elastic- 
ity of  the  gluten,  and  to  make  the 
mixture  smooth.  The  second  knead- 
ing is  to  break  up  the  large  cavities 
caused  by  gas  bubbles,  and  to  make 
the  texture  uniform  and  fine.  The 
length  of  time  required  for  the  first 
kneading  depends  somewhat  upon  the 
quantity  of  flour  and  shortening  that 
is  to  be  incorporated  into  the  dough. 
The  stiffer  the  dough  and  the  richer 
the  mixture,  the  longer  the  time  re- 
quired to  make  it  smooth  and  elastic. 
From  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes  are  re- 


quired. The  second  kneading  should 
be  of  such  length  only  as  is  needed  to 
put  the  dough  into  the  proper  shape 
for  baking. 

Temperature  and  Time  for  Rais- 
ing OF  Bread. —  As  bacilli  inimical  to 
the  proper  growth  of  the  yeast  plants 
may  be  introduced  into  the  dough  in 
the  milk  or  water,  it  is  advisable  to 
scald  the  milk  or  boil  the  water,  and 
then  let  cool  to  a  temperature  not 
over  100  degrees  F.,  before  adding 
the  yeast.  While  this  may  not  kill 
bacilli  present  in  the  liquid,  it  retards 
their  growth  for  the  time  being,  and 
leaves  the  yeast  plant  in  possession  of 
the  field.  The  taste  and  texture  of 
bread  are  largely  dependent  upon  the 
time  given  to  rising.  If  the  flavor  and 
other  characteristics  associated  with 
home-made  bread  be  desired,  they  can 
be  best  secured  by  long,  slow  rising  at 
a  temperature  a  little  below  that  of 
the  living-room,  or  between  55  and 
60  degrees  F.  In  winter,  bread  made 
with  one-third  a  yeast  cake  to  a  pint 
of  Uquid,  and  set  at  8  p.m.,  may 
be  left  standing,  in  a  room  that  in 
the  course  of  an  hour  or  two  drops 
to  the  temperature  given  above,  until 
seven  in  the  morning. 

While,  all  things  considered,  a  tem- 
perature of  68  degrees  F.  is  prob- 
ably the  most  favorable  for  bread- 
making,  the  operation  may  be  hast- 
ened by  setting  the  bowl  of  dough 
in  a  pan  of  water  that  is  kept  just 
below  90  degrees  F. 

When  the  dough  has  risen  to  about 
double  its  original  size,  it  should  be 
"cut  down,"  cut  and  worked  with 
a  knife,  to  break  up  the  bubbles  of 
gas,  and  retard  the  fermentation. 
The  ''  cutting  down  "  process  may  be 
repeated  several  times,  to  the  improve- 


204 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


ment  of  the  bread,  if  the  rising  be  not 
continued  too  long  at  any  one  time. 
If  the  fermentation  be  allowed  to  pro- 
ceed too  long,  the  glutinous  cell  walls 
holding  the  gas  become  weakened, 
the  dough  loses  its  puffy,  rounded 
appearance,  and  flattens,  or  "caves 
in,"  showing  that  the  alcoholic  fer- 
mentation has  passed  into  the  acetic. 
The  bread  will  be  sour.  Often  bread 
that  does  not  reach  this  condition  is 
subjected  to  fermentation  too  long; 
and  too  much  of  the  goodness  of  the 
flour  —  probably  of  the  gluten  —  is 
consumed  by  the  yeast  plants,  and  a 
dry,  tasteless,  chippy  bread  results. 
This  is  particularly  the  case  with 
bread  made  of  entire  wheat  flour.  As 
a  general  rule,  bread  made  with  one 
cake  of  compressed  yeast  to  a  pint 
of  liquid  will  double  in  bulk  in  three 
hours.  About  one  hour  is  required 
for  the  second  rising,  after  the  bread  is 
in  the  pans,  and  a  fifth  hour  for 
baking. 

Shaping  the  Dough. —  Knead  the 
dough  slightly,  and  divide  it  into  the 
requisite  number  of  pieces.  When  a 
round  is  desired,  shape  this  with  the 
hands  and  fingers,  by  folding  over  and 
patting,  until  no  wrinkles  are  to  be 
seen.  If  the  dough  was  properly 
moulded  in  the  first  place,  it  will  not 
stick  to  the  fingers  now.  If  it  should 
stick,  a  little  butter,  not  flour,  is  the 
remedy.  If  the  dough  is  to  be  given 
a  long,  oval  shape,  the  moulding  board 
is  needed.  When  doubled  in  bulk,  the 
loaves  are  ready  to  bake. 

The  Baking.  —  Yeast  bread  is 
baked  to  kill  the  ferment, —  lest  fer- 
mentation go  on  in  the  stomach,  —  to 
drive  off  alcohol,  stiffen  the  gluti- 
nous walls,  cook  the  starch,  and  form 
a  pleasant-tasting  crust. 


The  yeast  plant  is  killed  at  a  tem- 
perature of  2  12  F.  To  raise  the  tem- 
perature at  the  centre  of  the  ordi- 
nary loaf  to  this  point  requires  nearly 
an  hour's  cooking  in  an  oven  heated, 
when  the  bread  is  put  in,  to  about 
400  degrees  F. ;  that  is,  in  a  fast 
oven.  Where  the  temperature  of  the 
oven  is  gauged  by  a  "heat  indicator," 
the  index  is  just  past  the  central  mark, 
or  twelve  o'clock.  The  loaves  in  such 
an  oven  will  rise  a  little,  crust  over, 
and  brown  slightly  in  spots  during  the 
first  fifteen  minutes.  Biscuits  and 
rolls  require  a  hotter  oven,  and  will 
bake  in  from  twenty  minutes  to  half 
an  hour.  A  thick  loaf  of  bread  baked 
in  the  early  morning  is  considered  in 
good  condition  for  eating  by  night; 
but  it  will  be  in  better  condition  the 
next  morning.  Thin  biscuits,  if  thor- 
oughly baked,  are  not  as  objectionable 
hot  as  slices  from  a  thick  loaf.  Still, 
when  thoroughly  masticated,  the  di- 
gestibility of  fresh  (not  hot)  and  stale 
bread  is  about  the  same. 

Care  of  Bread  after  Baking. — 
Remove  the  bread  at  once  from  the 
tins  and  let  cool  in  fresh  air,  un- 
covered. Store,  when  fully  cold,  in 
a  tight-covered  stone  jar.  This  should 
be  washed,  scalded,  dried,  and  aired 
at  least  once  a  week.  Never  put  cut 
slices  into  the  jar,  but  keep  this  re- 
ceptacle free  from  crumbs.  Never  put 
a  cloth  into  the  jar  with  the  bread. 

The  Sponge. —  A  sponge  in  bread- 
making  is  a  mixture  of  flour  with 
liquid  and  yeast.  It  is  usually  made 
thin,  and  in  consequence  the  fer- 
ment acts  very  quickly.  A  sponge 
is  advisable  for  biscuits  and  all  yeast 
preparations  where  much  shortening 
is  to  be  used,  as  it  retards  the  ris- 
ing. 


i 


Flowers  in  Winter 


By  E.  M.  Lucas 


*'  Your   voiceless   lips,    O   flowers,   are   living 
preachers, 
Each  cup  a  pulpit,  every  leaf  a  book, 
Supplying  to  my  fancy  numerous  teachers 
P'rom  lowliest  nook." 

FLOWERS  on  the  dining  table 
have  become  as  much  a  neces- 
sity as  dainty  napery  and  deli- 
cate crockery,  and  one  might  go 
further,  and  say  as  food  itself.  This 
sentiment  was  not  born  in  this  year 
of  grace.  Centuries  ago  Mohammed 
said,  "He  that  has  two  cakes  of 
bread,  let  him  sell  one  of  them  for 
some  flowers  of  the  Narcissus ;  for 
bread  is  food  for  the  body,  but  the 
Narcissus    is   food   for   the    soul." 

Perhaps  it  is  as  well  here  to  ques- 
tion the  value  of  flowers  to  us,  lest 
without  thought  we  deem  as  extrava- 
gant the  expenditure  of  money  for 
them.  Each  must  answer  for  himself. 
No  one  can  tell  what  a  blossom  is  to 
another.  Does  a  rose  or  lily  suggest 
to  you  but  form  and  color,  or  can  you 
answer  with  Wordsworth  :  — 

"  To  me   the  meanest  flower  that  blows  can 
give 
Thoughts   that   do    often   lie    too    deep   for 
tears  "  ? 

"  Consider  the  lilies "  was  the  ad- 
vice given  a  long,  long  time  ago  by 
One  whose  words  of  wisdom  and  love 
have  echoed  down  the  ages ;  and,  if 
our  hearts  are  attuned  in  harmony 
with  nature,  we  may  still  hear  the 
vibrations. 

More  and  more  flowers  are  becom- 
ing features  of  our  homes,  and  taste  in 
their   use   is   improving.      There    are 


more  plants  blooming  in  pots.  Fat 
bouquets  of  the  cannon-ball  type  have 
given  way  to  sprays  of  loosely  ar- 
ranged flowers  and  foliage,  that  look 
happy  and  natural.  Crowded  flowers 
and  complicated  set  pieces  are  in  bad 
taste.  A  spray  of  blossoms  in  a  clear 
glass  vase  is  the  acme  of  refinement. 
A  single  pot  of  daffodils  suggests 
Nature  in  her  sunniest  moods  ;  and  we 
exclaim  with  Ambrose  Phillips, — 

*'  At  sight  of  thee  my  gloomy  soul  cheers  up, 
My  hopes  revive,  and  gladness  dawns  within 
me." 

The  same  flower  in  a  prim  bouquet, 
wearing  a  stiff  paper  collar,  is  merely 
a  mass  of  dying  yellow. 

"  But,"  groans  the  woman  with  the 
desire  for  blossoms,  but  without  the 
finances  to  indulge  her  tastes,  ''  cut 
flowers  and  potted  plants  are  so  ex- 
pensive during  late  winter  and  early 
spring  months."  This  state  of  affairs 
should  not  condemn  her  to  a  flowerless 
home.  On  the  contrary,  the  woman 
who  grows  her  own  blossoms,  noticing 
each  stage  of  growth,  has  a  joy  un- 
known to  her  who  buys  cut  flowers 
from  a  greenhouse. 

While  some  plants  exact  a  long 
season  of  training  to  perfect  bloom, 
others  will  bloom  without  this  prelimi- 
nary treatment,  and  in  a  few  weeks 
from  the  time  of  potting  give  flowers 
sweet  as  the  breath  of  spring.  This 
is  true  of  the  lily  of  the  valley,  that 
enchantingly  pretty  blossom,  sugges- 
tive of  all  that  is  lovely  and  pure. 
Poets  have  not  failed  to  express  their 


ao6 


The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


regard  for  this  modest  and  simple  and 
sweet  blossom.     Keats  declares, — 

"  No  flower  amid  the  garden  fairer  grows 
Than  the  sweet  lily  of  the  lowly  vale." 

Nothing  could  be  more  effective  for 
a  centre-piece  on  the  table  than  a  flat 
green  basket, —  a  green  that  will  carry 
out  the  stem  color  of  the  flowers,  filled 
with  the  slender  racemes  of  the  fragile 
and  pale  flow^ers,  their  exquisite  purity 
and  beauty  of  tone  enhanced  by  a 
mass  of  broad,  pale  green,  deeply 
nerved  leaves.  With  care  as  to  tem- 
perature, such  a  basket  will  delight  the 
eye  and  gladden  the  heart  for  weeks ; 
for  these  blossoms  are  at  home,  roots 
and  all,  in  the  basket. 

There  is  little  difficulty  in  bringing 
this  plant  to  perfection,  if  good  roots, 
or  pips,  are  used.  A  business  is  made 
of  raising  these  pips  in  Holland,  and 
all  the  best  stock  comes  from  that 
source.  They  do  not  arrive  in  this 
country,  usually,  until  the  middle  of 
November,  and  often  it  is  later  in  the 
year ;  but  this  is  no  objection,  for  the 
pips  come  when  blossoms  are  begin- 
ning to  be  costly  and  they  can  be 
forced  to  bloom  in  a  few  weeks'  time. 
Procure  the  pips  from  a  reliable  florist. 
Buy  plenty :  one  can  obtain  a  dozen 
good  pips  for  forty  cents.  The  little 
pips  are  very  hardy,  and  start  and 
grow  better,  if  subjected  to  a  stiff 
freeze. 

The  following  method  of  forcing 
valley  lilies  is  practised  by  florists, 
but  is  not  generally  known  to  ama- 
teurs. Wrap  each  pip  in  moss, —  any 
moss  will  do.  Wet  the  moss  thor- 
oughly, and  place  the  pips  out  of  doors 
where  they  may  experience  the  effect 
of  freezing  weather.  If  the  damp 
moss    which   surrounds    the    pips   be 


frozen  stiff,  it  is  all  the  better.  In  a 
week  bring  them  in.  Put  a  layer  of 
broken  charcoal  in  the  basket,  pot,  or 
box  in  which  the  pips  are  to  bloom, 
cover  with  a  thick  layer  of  moss  or 
sand,  on  this  put  the  pips  just  as  they 
are,  and  pack  moss  between  each  root. 
They  should  be  about  one  inch  apart, 
and  let  the  tip  of  the  pips  just  reach 
the  surface.  Cover  with  a  piece  of 
board,  and  allow  to  thaw  out  gradually 
in  a  cool  room  for  two  days.  Bring 
to  a  warmer  room,  and  give  a  position 
where  they  will  get  bottom  heat.  On 
the  back  of  a  kitchen  range  or  over  a 
register  will  do.  Give  tepid  water 
once  a  day,  and  keep  the  basket  or  pot 
closely  covered  with  an  inverted  paste- 
board box  or  a  cap  made  of  heavy 
wrapping  paper. 

In  about  twenty  days  from  the  time 
of  planting  the  buds  will  appear.  Re- 
move the  cover,  and  place  the  pots  in 
a  cool  room  at  a  window  with  good 
light,  but  no  sunshine,  where  the  leaves 
will  grow  stronger  and  taller,  and  take 
on  a  good  color,  and  the  flower  stems 
will- lengthen  and  develop  fully  all  their 
buds.  Failure  is  courted  by  placing 
the  pot  in  a  sunny  window  and  heated 
atmosphere,  where  the  flower  stalk  will 
shrink  and  the  leaves  curl  up.  If  the 
flower  stalks  do  not  seem  to  make  a 
rapid  growth,  but  are  short  and  club- 
like, roll  a  bit  of  stiff  paper  into  a  cone, 
open  at  each  end,  and  invert  the  cones 
over  the  flower  stalks.  In  reaching  up 
to  the  light,  the  stalk  will  lengthen  it- 
self properly.  Keep  the  pots  or  bas- 
kets in  a  cool  place  when  not  in  use, 
that  the  flowers  may  retain  their  fresh- 
ness and  beauty  as  long  as  possible. 
The  pips  may  be  started  at  different 
times,  thus  bringing  them  into  bloom 
in  succession. 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing' 

By  M.  C.  Limerick  and  L.  R.  Balderston 
Article  No.  3 


BATHING.— The  skin  elimi- 
nates waste  products  through 
its  pores.  If  the  pores  are 
not  kept  open,  the  kidneys  and  other 
eliminating  organs  are  obliged  to  do 
extra  work,  and  in  time  are  likely  to 
become  diseased.  A  bath  should  take 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  not  in- 
cluding the  foot-bath. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  baths : 
a  general  bath,  given  for  cleanliness  ; 
a  local  bath,  given  for  some  special 
trouble ;  cold  water,  hot  water,  hot 
air,  and  vapor  baths. 

Points  to  be  remembered  in  Bath- 
ing— First.  Have  everything  in  readi- 
ness before  beginning  work. 

Second.  Do  not  expose  the  patient 
to  the  cold  by  letting  the  blanket  slip 
aside. 

Third.  Do  not  wet  too  large  a  sur- 
face at  once,  and  wipe  the  skin  thor- 
oughly dry. 

General  Bath,  Preparation  of 
Patient  and  Bed. —  Double  a  blanket 
end  to  end.  Push  the  upper  bed- 
clothes toward  the  patient,  lay  the 
folded  blanket  on  the  cleared  place 
and  draw  the  bed-clothing  over  it,  then 
move  the  patient  on  the  folded  blanket. 
Lay  another  blanket  over  the  spread, 
and  remove  all  the  upper  bed-clothing 
from  beneath  it.  The  patient  is 
covered  with  this  alone,  if  weather  and 
temperature  of  the  room  are  favorable. 
Remove  night-dress.  Use  a  soft 
Turkish  or  flannel  wash-cloth  and  a 
good  soap.     If  there  be  any  odor,  use 


toilet  ammonia,  alcohol,  or  borax,  one 
teaspoonful  to  two  quarts  of  water.  A 
flannel  cloth  is  desirable,  because  it 
retains  the  heat  longer.  Begin  with 
the  face  and  the  neck.  Wash  under 
the  arms  well,  and  rub  the  flesh  until 
perfectly  dry.  Next  bathe  the  chest 
and  abdomen,  then  arms  and  back, 
bathing  lower  extremities  last  of  all. 
If  patient  needs  rubbing,  rub  each  part 
as  it  is  bathed.  Always  put  alcohol  on 
your  hands.  In  rubbing  abdomen, 
give  the  upward  movement  on  the  right 
side  then  across  and  down  on  the  left 
side.  This  movement  sometimes  helps 
constipation.  Wash  the  lower  part  of 
the  body,  holding  the  blanket  in  one 
hand  to  avoid  exposure.  If  patient  is 
able,  allow  her  to  attend  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  body  herself.  If  she  is  not, 
under  no  consideration  omit  to  wash 
thoroughly.  After  the  bed-pan  has 
been  used,  the  parts  should  be  wiped 
with  a  damp  towel.  It  is  often 
a  very  great  comfort  to  the  patient 
to  have  her  face  and  hands  bathed 
in  the  morning  before  the  nurse 
attends  to  her  own  toilet.  This  is 
often  restful,  if  done  several  times  a 
day,  and  especially  so  before  meals. 
Do  not  allow  the  water  for  bathing  to 
become  cold,  and  change  it  once  at 
least. 

When  necessary,  the  nails  must  be 
cleaned  and  trimmed,  usually  once  a 
week.  A  soft  nail-brush  can  be  used 
for  hands  every  day. 

The  Mouth. —  The  patient's  mouth 


Copyrighted  1901 


208 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


must  be  attended  to  each  day.  It 
must  be  kept  perfectly  clean,  and 
should  be  washed  at  least  three  times 
daily.  Nothing  is  more  refreshing  in 
illness  than  a  clean  mouth  and  well- 
brushed  teeth.  If  patient  cannot  have 
tooth-brush  used,  make  a  swab  by 
tying  a  piece  of  cotton  or  linen  over 
a  small  stick,  making  a  groove  around 
stick  to  hold  cloth  when  tied.  Equal 
proportions  of  lemon  juice  and  glycer- 
ine is  a  good  preparation  to  pour  on 
the  swab.  Have  a  basin  of  clean 
water  to  wash  swab  in  after  using  it. 
Wash  patient's  mouth  three  times  a 
day,  no  matter  what  the  illness  may 
be.  Never  put  the  fingers  into  a 
patient's  mouth.  If  a  patient  is  on 
a  milk  diet,  the  mouth  should  be 
cleansed  with  water,  with  a  little  lis- 
terine  in  it,  after  each  portion  of  milk 
has  been  taken. 

The  Hair. —  The  hair  should  be 
attended  to  each  day.  Women's  hair 
should  be  separated  into  two  parts, 
and  braided.  If  matted,  begin  at  the 
ends  and  work  gently,  holding  the 
strand  firmly  in  the  hand.  If  the  hair 
is  heavy,  it  is  well  to  make  four  braids. 
Never  have  only  one  braid,  no  matter 
how  light  the  hair  may  be,  on  ac- 
count of  the  pressure  on  the  head. 
Braid  loosely  for  one  or  two  strands, 
then  braid  tightly.  Brush  as  patient 
likes.  A  little  rubbing  with  the  fin- 
gers sometimes  is  restful.  For  this 
use  half  alcohol,  and  half  water,  and 
apply  with  a  sponge  or  small  cloth. 

Foot-bath. —  Loosen  the  bed-cloth- 
ing at  the  foot  of  the  bed.  Place  a 
towel,  newspapers,  or  rubber  sheet 
on  the  bed.     Draw    up    the    patient's 


feet  toward  her  body,  and  place  the 
tub  under  them.  Put  the  feet  in  the 
water,  cover  with  the  bed-clothing  and 
an  extra  blanket,  to  prevent  the  cold 
air  getting  in.  Allow  the  feet  to  re- 
main in  the  water  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  If  necessary  to  keep  the 
water  at  a  certain  temperature,  be 
careful  to  add  hot  water,  and  avoid  a 
current  of  cold  air.  For  a  mustard 
bath,  use  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls 
of  mustard.  Mix  with  a  little  warm 
water,  and  add  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
It  is  always  better  to  give  the  bath  in 
bed.  If  a  patient  is  in  such  a  con- 
dition that  the  knees  cannot  be  drawn 
up,  use  a  basin,  and  wash  each  foot 
separately.  Sometimes  this  bath  can 
be  given  by  moving  the  patient  to  the 
side  of  the  bed.  In  this  case  be  care- 
ful to  keep  the  legs  well  covered. 
Never  be  afraid  to  use  water,  even 
in  rheumatism.  A  little  alcohol  added 
to  the  water  will  prevent  the  patient 
taking  cold.  If  the  patient  should 
become  chilly  while  the  bath  is  being 
given,  the  nurse  must  stop  at  once, 
and  apply  hot-water  bags  or  bottles 
filled  wdth  hot  water.  Always  have 
plenty  of  hot  water  ready  in  case  it  is 
needed,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  clean 
towels.  If  tfie  nurse  should  have  a 
cut  or  sore  place  on  her  hand,  she 
should  apply  collodion  before  begin- 
ning bath.  This  forms  a  false  skin. 
Do  not  keep  stopper  out  of  the  bottle 
longer  than  necessary. 

Bath  Temperatures. —  A  hot  bath 
varies  from  98  degrees  to  no  degrees 
F. ;  a  warm  bath,  from  85  degrees  to  98 
degrees  F. ;  a  tepid  bath,  from  70  de- 
grees to  85  degrees  F. 


Afternoon  Tea  in   England 

By  Julia  D.   Chandler 


AN  English  lady  recently  said 
that  tea  in  America  was  a  fad 
Lsoon  forgotten  or  changed  into 
an  occasional  reception  where  salads 
and  ices  are  served ;  while  in  England 
it  is  the  invariable  custom  of  the 
family  to  enjoy  tea  at  a  regular  hour, 
either  alone  or  with  those  friends  who 
happen  in.  Choice  tea,  thin  bread  and 
butter,  are  served,  to  which  a  small  dish 
of  shrimp  and  watercress  are  favorite 
additions.  Periwinkles,  a  small  creat- 
ure like  a  snail,  while  far  from  elegant, 
are  very  nice. 

Cheese  sandwiches  also  give  variety 
and  are  economical,  the  dry  cheese 
being  grated  and  bottled  for  the  pur- 
pose. Only  now  and  then  is  cake 
placed  on  the  tray. 


When  the  American  librarians  were 
invited  to  England  three  years  ago, 
they  were  entertained  by  State  and 
Church  dignitaries,  banqueted  by  lord 
mayors  and  lords  who  were  not  mayors. 
They  also  enjoyed  informal  teas  in 
dear  old  gardens,  and  in  the  long 
English  twilight  afterward  gathered 
flowers. 

At  the  luncheons  of  the  lord  mayors 
there  was  a  great  variety  of  sand- 
wiches made  with  potted  meats  and 
game.  These  accompanied  number- 
less punches  and  claret-cups,  and  were 
served  on  silver  dishes  with'  spikes 
like  bill-stickers,  each  bearing  the 
name, —  pheasant,  chicken,  etc., —  so 
that  any  one  could  easily  select  a 
favorite  kind. 


Dat  Valentine 

[Written  for  the  Boston  Cooking-school  Magazine] 


By  Kate  M.  Post 


Yis,  I's  done  got  a  valentine. 

Laws  !  ain't  yo'  seen  it  yit  ? 
Wal,  when  yo'  does,  I  reckon, 

'Tain't  one  dat  yo'll  forgit. 


Dar's  gilt  an'  lace  all  roun'  de  adge, 

An'  vi'lets  an'  a  rose, 
An'  a  boy  a-shootin'  arrows, 

What's  done  forgot  his  clothes. 


"  Dat's  Cupid  ? "     Yo'  done  tell  me  dat ! 

I  didn'  rightly  know. 
I's  heard  great  talk  about  him, 

But  ain't  seen  him  befo'. 


De  words  I  sca'cely  kin  make  out ; 

But,  den,  I  mos'ly  know, 
Dat  ef  dey  praise  ma  waffles, 

De  valentine's  from  Jo.  -  . 


But,  ef  dey's  jes'  sweet  sayin's 
'Bout  vi'lets  bein'  blue, 

It  come  from  dat  fool  nigga 
Dat  wuuks  fo'  ole  Miss  Lu. 


Recipes  from  Public  Demonstrations 


at  the  Boston  Cooking-  School 


Hominy  Muffins 
To  one  cup  of  warm  cooked  hominy 
add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup 
of  scalded  milk,  three  tables poonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
When  lukewarm,  add  one-third  a  yeast 
cake  dissolved  in  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
lukewarm  water  and  flour  enough  to 
make  a  stiff  batter.  Let  rise  over 
night.  In  the  morning  fill  gem-pans 
to  two-thirds  their  height.  Let  rise 
one  hour,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Fried  Oysters 

Let  oysters  heat  to  the  boiling-point 

in  their  own  liquor,  then  drain  and  dry 
between  the  folds  of  a  towel.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  flour,  e^j 
and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  deep 
fat.  Drain  on  soft  paper,  and  ser\-e 
on  a  folded  napkin.  Garnish  with 
parsley  and  lemon.  Serve  at  the  same 
time 

Philadelphia  Rehsh 

Mix  two  cups  of  shredded  cabbage, 
two  green  peppers  cut  in  shreds  or 
finely  chopped,  one  teaspoonful  of 
celery  seed,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
mustard-seed,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  brown  sugar,  and 
one-fourth   a  cup  of  vinegar. 

Filling  for  Lemon  Pie 
Mix  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  a  few 
grains  of  salt.  Add  one  tablespoonful 
of  melted  butter,  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice,  the  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon,  and    the    volks    of    two    es:2:s 


slightly  beaten.  Stir  until  thoroughly 
blended,  then  add  seven-eighths  a  cup 
of  milk  and  the  whites  of  two  ^gs 
beaten  stiif.     Bake  with  one  crust 

Apple  Tartlets 
Line  indi\'idual  tins  with  plain  paste. 
Into  each  tin  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sifted  apple-sauce  and  over  this  half 
an  apple  cored  and  pared,  or  use 
sUces  of  apple,  one  overlapping  an- 
other. Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
nearly  done,  then  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  syrup  or  apple  jelly  to  each  dish, 
and  return  to  the  oven  until  the  apples 
are  soft.  Cool,  and  remove  from  the 
tins  for  serving. 

Tomato  Bouillon  with  Oysrers 

Cook  three  pints  of  bouillon,  one 
can  of  tomatoes,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  onion,  one  bay  leaf,  six  cloves, 
one  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns  twenty 
minutes.  Strain  through  a  sieve  fine 
enough  to  keep  back  the  seeds.  When 
cold,  stir  in'  the  crushed  shells  and 
slightly  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs. 
Stir  until  boiling,  then  let  simmer  ten 
minutes,  skim  carefully,  and  strain 
through  a  folded  cheese-cloth  spread 
in  a  colander  or  sieve.  Serve  in  bouil- 
lon cups  with  small  parboiled  0}-sters 
and  small  croutons. 

Coffee  Fritters 

Cut    stale    bread    in    finger-shaped 

pieces.     Mix   three-fourths   a   cup    of 

coffee  infusion,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 

sugar,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 


Boston  Cooking-School   Recipes 


211 


one  egg  slightly  beaten,  and  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  cream.  Dip  the  pieces  of 
bread  into  the  liquid,  then  "  egg-and- 
bread-crumb "  and  fry  in  deep  fat. 
Drain  on  soft  paper  at  the  oven  door. 
Serve  with 

Coffee  Sauce 
Scald  one  cup  and  a  half  of  milk 
with  half  a  cup  of  ground  coffee,  and 
let  stand  twenty  minutes.  Strain,  and 
add  the  infusion  slowly  to  one-third  a 
cup  of  sugar  mixed  with  three-fourths 
a  tablespoonful  of  arrow-root  and  a  few 
grains  of  salt.  Cook  five  minutes. 
Serve  when  hot. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream  with  Coffee 
Sauce 
Mix  three  pints  of  thin  cream,  one 
cup  and  a  fourth  of  sugar,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract. 
Freeze,  and  pour  over  each  service 
two   or  three    tablespoonfuls    of 

Coffee  Cream  Sauce 

Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  slightly. 
Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a 
few  grains  of  salt.  Pour  on  gradually 
one  cup  of  clear  strong  coffee,  and  cook 
in  a  double  boiler,  stirring  constantly 
until  the  mixture  coats  the  spoon. 
Cool,  and  fold  in  half  a  cup  of  double 
cream  beaten  until  thick. 

Newport  Cake 
Cream  one  cup  of  butter.  Add  grad- 
ually one  cup  and  a  half  of  flour  sifted 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow- 
der. Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  until 
lemon-colored  and  thick.  Add  grad- 
ually one  cup  and  a  half  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  slowly  combine  the  two 
mixtures.     Add  the  whites  of  five  eggs 


beaten  until  stiff  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  brandy.  Turn  into  a  buttered 
cake-pan,  and  bake  one  hour  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

Devil's  Food 
Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream. 
Add  gradually  one  cup  of  sugar.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs  until  lemon- 
colored  and  thick.  Add  one  cup  of 
sugar,  and  combine  the  two  mixtures. 
Add,  alternately,  one  cup  of  milk  and 
two  cups  and  one-third  of  flour  sifted 
with  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-pow- 
der, two  squares  of  melted  chocolate, 
and  the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten 
stiff.  Bake  in  a  tube  pan  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  about  forty-five  minutes. 
Cover  with 

Boiled  Frosting 

Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one-third 
a  cup  of  boiling  water,  until  the  syrup 
threads.  Pour  on  to  the  white  of  one 
egg  beaten  until  foamy,  but  not  dry. 
Add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Beat 
occasionally,  until  stiff  enough  to  spread. 
Pour  over  the  cake  and  spread  evenly. 

Chocolate  Fruit  Cookies 
Cream  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter. 
Add  gradually  half  a  cup  of  sugar. 
Cook  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful, each,  of  sugar  and  water  until 
smooth.  Beat  into  the  sugar  and 
butter.  Add  one  egg  well  beaten, 
half  a  cup,  each,  of  chopped  nuts  and 
seeded  raisins,  one  cup  of  flour  mixed 
and  sifted  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder  and  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful of  salt.  Roll  into  a  thin 
sheet,  stamp  out  into  rounds,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


Caution  in  Little  Things 


A  BEGINNER  in  the  domestic 
realm  complained  frequently 
that  the  milk  soured,  but  the 
milkman  said  with  a  pleasant  decision 
that  she  was  his  only  customer  who 
found  his  milk  unsatisfactory.  An 
aunt  quietly  remarked  that  the  milk 
was  left  on  the  doors.tep  too  long,  and 
that  it  stood  too  long  on  the  kitchen 
table  after  being  taken  in.  As  the 
young  housekeeper  still  had  trouble,  it 
remained  for  an  intelligent  servant  to 
give  a  needed  lesson. 

**  If  you  please,  ma'am,"  she  said, 
"  you  put  the  milk  close  to  the  salad 
dressing  in  the  refrigerator;  and  of 
course,  the  sourness  was  catchin'." 

"  Is  that  possible  ? "  asked  the  young 
mistress. 

''  Why,  for  certain,  ma'am,"  replied 
the  girl.  "  You  never  must  put  any- 
thing sour  near  the  milk :  it's  always 
ready  to  *  turn '  on  the  least  excuse ;  and, 
if  either  lemon  juice,  vinegar,  or  pickles 
be  put  too  near,  up  gets  the  milk  and 
resents  it,  gettin'  sour  for  itself." 

A  man  given  to  making  scientific 
experiments  sniffed  warily  on  entering 
his  mother's  kitchen.  "There's  noth- 
ing here  that  can  be  spoiled,"  the  lady 
affirmed.  "  Last  night  at  dinner  we 
had  an  excellent  piece  of  roast  beef  : 
it  is  in  the  cool  pantry,  and  I  intend 
having  it  sliced  for  lunch." 

"  Then  you'll  be  poisoned,"  rejoined 
her  son  ;  and,  going  to  the  pantry,  he 
showed  her  that  the  trouble  arose  from 
having  allowed  the  beef  to  stand  in  the 
red  dish  gravy.  **  Decomposition,"  he 
said,  using  plainly  the  distasteful  word, 
"will  often  take  place  in  a  very  few 
hours    where     meat    that    is    rare    is 


allowed  to  stand  in  the  dish  gravy. 
Your  nice  meat  would  have  been  all 
right  to-day,  had  you  put  it  on  another 
platter,  free  from  the  gravy,  the  taint 
of  which  I  recognized  the  moment  I 
entered  the  kitchen." 

Another  inexperienced  housekeeper 
was  annoyed  at  the  speed  with  which 
her  bread  would   have  a  musty  taste. 

One  day  a  neighbor  saw  her  carefully 
washing  out  the  tin  chest  in  which 
her  nice  loaves  were  kept ;  and,  with 
true  neighborly  kindness,  she  said, 
laughingly :  — 

"  My  dear,  I'm  afraid  your  bread  will 
spoil." 

"Well,  now,  do  tell  me  what  I  am 
doing  wrong  !  "  exclaimed  the  younger 
woman.  "  My  bread  does  spoil,  and  I've 
tried  in  vain  to  find  out  the  reason." 

"  In  the  first  place,"  the  neighbor 
replied,  "  your  tin  is  not  perfectly  dry. 
Any  moisture  will  produce  a  musty, 
mouldy  taste  in  a  very  little  while  ;  and, 
then,  your  bread  is  not  cool  enough  to 
put  away.  I  see  you  have  wrapped 
it  cautiously  about  with  a  portion  of 
an  old  tablecloth,  an  excellent  thing  to 
do  after  the'  loaves  have  cooled.  I 
have  often  seen  cooks  wrap  bread  up 
in  that  way  while  warm,  where  it  was 
to  be  eaten  immediately ;  but  it  is  not 
the  correct  way  to  shut  the  steam  in 
with  a  cloth.  Let  the  bread  cool,  have 
your  tin  chest  thoroughly  dried  and 
well  aired,  then  wrap  up  the  loaves  in 
the  soft  cloth,  and  it  will  keep  moist 
and  perfectly  sweet.  Don't  use  the 
cloth  long  without  washing  it." 

"  Such  little  things,  and  yet  so  im- 
portant ! "  exclaimed  the  younger  wo- 
man.—  Selected. 


Selected  Verse 


Evening  brings  us  Home 

Upon  the  hills  the  -wind  is  sharp  and  cold, 
The  sweet  young  grasses  wither  on  the  wold, 
And  we,  O  Lord,  have  wandered  from  Thy 
fold ; 
But  evening  brings  us  home. 

Among  the  mists  we  stumbled,  and  the  rocks 
Where  the  brown  lichen  whitens,  and  the  fox 
Watches    the    straggler    from    the    scattered 
flocks ; 
But  evening  brings  us  home. 

The   sharp  thorns    prick  us,   and    our  tender 

feet 
Are  cut  and  bleeding,  and  the  lambs  repeat 
Their  pitiful  complaints, —  oh,  rest  is  sweet 
When  evening  brings  us  home. 

We  have  been  wounded  by  the  hunter's  darts ; 
Our  eyes  are  very  heavy,  and  our  hearts 
Search  for  Thy  coming :    when   the  light  de- 
parts 
At  evening,  bring  us  home. 

The   darkness    gathers.     Through   the   gloom 

no  star 
Rises  to  guide  us  :  we  have  wandered  far; 
Without  Thy  lamp  we  know  not  where  we  are. 
At  evening  bring  us  home. 

The  clouds  are  round  us,  and  the  snow-drifts 

thicken. 
O  thou  dear  Shepherd,  leave  us  not  to  sicken 
In  the  waste-night:  our  tardy  footsteps  quicken; 
At  evening  bring  us  home. 
V  Anonjymous. 


Pussy-willow 


Before  the  bluebird  wings  its  way 
To  northern  glade  and  dell, 

There  comes  a  dear  and  happy  day 
When  buds  begin  to  swell. 

Perhaps  they  see  (we  know  not  how) 
Some  secret  beckoning  sign, 

For  soon  on  ever}-  willow  bough 
The  silvery  catkins  shine. 

By  singing  streams  so  lately  dumb 
The  merrv  children  shout, — 


Oh,  joyful  news  ! — "  The  spring  has  come  ! 
The  pussy-willow's  out !  " 

Anna  M.  Pratt. 

The  Bells  of  Shandon 

With  deep  affection  and  recollection, 
I  often  think  of  those  Shandon  bells. 

Whose  sound  so  wuld  would  in  days  of  child- 
hood 
Fling  round  my  cradle  their  magic  spells. 

On  this  I  ponder  where'er  I  wander. 

And  thus  grow  fonder,  sweet  Cork,  of  thee. 

With    thy  bells   of   Shandon,   that    sound   so 
grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee. 

I've  heard  bells  chimin'  full  many  a  clime  in, 
Tolling  sublime  in  cathedral  shrine. 

While  at  glib  rate  brass  tongues  would  vibrate ; 
But  all  their  music  spoke  naught  like  thine. 

For  memory,  dwelling  on  each  proud  swelling 
Of  thy  belfry  knelling  its  bold  notes  free, 

Made  the  bells  of  Shandon  sound  far  more 
grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee. 

I've  heard  bells  tollin'  old  Adrian's  Mole  in. 
Their  thunder  rollin'  from  the  Vatican, 

And  cymbals  glorious  swinging  uproarious 
In  the  gorgeous  turrets  of  Notre  Dame. 

But  thy  sounds  were  sweeter  than  the  dome  of 
Peter 
Flings  o'er  the  Tiber,  pealing  solemnly. 
Oh,  the  bells  of  Shandon  sound  far  more  grand 
on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee. 

There's  a  bell  in  Moscow ;  while  on  tower  and 
kiosk,  O ! 

In  St.  Sophia  the  Turkman  gets, 
And  loud  in  air  calls  me  to  prayer. 

From  the  tapering  summits  of  tall  minarets. 

Such  empty  phantom  I  freely  grant  them ; 

But  there's  an  anthem  more  dear  to  me, — 
'Tis  the  bells  of  Shandon,  that  sound  so  grand 
on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee. 

Francis  Mahoiiy. 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL  CORPORATION 

Established    1879.  Incorporated   1882, 

School  :   372  BOYLSTON  STREET. 


^oarij  of  Managers,  IHOl. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEVVALL President. 

Mrs.  STEPHEN   D.  BENNETT,       Vice-President. 


directors. 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL. 
Mrs.  THOMAS   MACK. 
Mrs.  GEORGE   E.    NILES. 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING. 
Mrs.  WINSLOW  WARREN. 
Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS. 
Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY. 
Miss  ELLEN  M.  CHANDLER. 
Miss  MINNA  TRAIN. 

Mrs.  LINDZEE   TILDEN. 
Miss  ELIZABETH   ROGERS. 
Miss  EMILY   GREENE,   Treasurer. 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary. 
Principal,  Miss  FANNIE  MORRILL  FARMER. 
(  Miss  MARIA  W.  HOWARD. 
Assistants,   \^^^^^  MARIETTA  McPHERSON. 

THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL    MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary  Science  and  Domestic  Economics. 

PUBLISHED    BIMONTHLY. 

Official  Journal  of  the  Boston   Cook- 
ing-School Corporation. 

Publication  Office  : 
372   BoYLSTON  Street,  Boston,   Mass. 

JANET  McKENZIE  HILL Editor. 

BENJ.  M.  HILL General  Manager. 

R.  B.  HILL Business  Manager. 

Subscription,  50c.  per  Year.     Single  Copies,  ioc. 
Advertising    Rates   furnished  on  Application. 

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Entered  at  Boston  Post-office  as  second-class  matter. 


The   Boston   Cooking   School 

Abstract  of  Directors'  Annual  Report 

THE  school  record  for  the  past 
year  continues  to  be  good, 
with  no  appreciable  loss  in 
any  of  its  departments.  In  the  autumn 
an  increase  in  attendance  was  marked 
in  every  line  save  that,  perhaps,  of  spe- 
cial pupils.  In  the  demonstration 
lectures,  however,  there  is  a  gain  of 
about  fifty  each  over  the  correspond- 
ing months  of  last  year,  while  the 
number  of  private  classes  is  larger 
than  it  has  ever  been  in  former  years. 
The  greatest  interest  is  manifested  in 
the  work  of  the  normal  class.  The 
applications  for  admission  to  this  class 
have  been  more  numerous  than  ever 
before.  In  fact,  the  accommodations 
of  the  school  quite  fail  to  be  equal  to 
the  demand  in  this  department. 

The  official  report  of  the  year's  work, 
now  closed,  includes  the  details  of  work 
in  demonstrations,  private  classes,  spe- 
cial pupils,  lectures  to  nurses  at  vari- 
ous hospitals,  as  well  as  to  the  med- 
ical students  of  Harvard  College,  and 
the  instruction  given  to  the  normal 
class. 

Little  change  has  taken  place  in 
methods  of  instruction,  or  in  the  policy 
of  administration,  in  the  school,  the  de- 
sire being  to  enlarge  its  sphere  of  use- 
fulness in  such  a  manner  as  to  incur 
no  financial  risk.  It  will  be  remem- 
bered that  this  school  is,  of  necessity, 
self-supporting. 

The  teaching  force  remains  the  same, 
with  the  exception  of  Miss  Charlotte 
James  Wills,  now  Mrs.  Clark.  For  the 
place  so  long  and  ably  filled  by  Miss 
Wills,  Miss  Marietta  McPherson,  a 
graduate  of  the  class  of  '98,  was 
chosen. 


Editorials 


215 


The  Cooking- School  Magazine  con- 
tinues to  prosper  under  the  editorship 
of  Mrs.  Janet  M.  Hill.  In  January, 
1900,  Mrs.  Hill  became  second  party 
to  the  contract  that  had  been  made  by 
the  school  with  the  Pettingill  Com- 
pany. The  tenor  of  contract  with  Mrs. 
Hill  remains  identically  the  same  as 
that  which  existed  between  the  Pettin- 
gill Company  and  the  school. 

Our  president,  Mrs.  Sewall,  has  been 
able  to  attend  very  few  of  the  monthly 
meetings  of  the  board  ;  but  her  interest 
and  influence  have  been  felt  at  all 
times.  Mrs.  Bennett,  vice-president,  as 
acting  president  has  manifested  her 
steadfast  devotion  to  the  welfare  of  the 
school,  in  constantly  visiting  the  several 
classes,  and  in  a  careful  supervision  of 
the  entire  work. 

Mrs.  Everett  Morss,  Sec'y. 

THE  attention  of  our  readers 
is  invited  to  the  special  ad- 
vertisement of  the  magazine 
to  be  found  on  another  page  of  the 
present  issue.  The  magazine's  steadily 
growing  circulation  has  ever  been  a 
source  of  pride  and  gratification  to  the 
management.  Still,  we  are  naturally 
desirous  of  adding  new  names  to  our 
list,  aiming  thereby  to  improve  the 
quality  and  enlarge  the  usefulness  of 
the  publication.  It  is  our  purpose  in 
no  respect  to  practise  sensational 
methods,  nor  are  we  prepared  to  of- 
fer large  or  fanciful  prizes,  to  induce 
agents  to  place  on  our  list  large  num- 
bers of  temporary  subscribers.  We 
aim  to  reach  the  prudent  housekeeper, 
those  who  are  actually  interested  in 
the  ordinary,  every-day  affairs  of  the 
home,  who  wish  to  know  not  only  the 
best  that  has  been  thought  and  said 
on  the  several  phases  of  housekeeping, 


but  also  the  most  efficient  and  practi- 
cal ways  to  attain  certain  definite 
results.  And  may  we  not  assume  that 
the  interests  of  the  earnest,  progressive 
home-maker  everywhere  and  our  own 
are  mutual  ? 

In  a  measure,  then,  at  least,  we 
would  grow  in  excellence  and  useful- 
ness through  the  instrumentality  of 
our  readers.  And,  if  our  present  sub- 
scribers would  avail  themselves  quite 
generally  of  our  offer, —  namely,  to 
renew  their  own  subscription  for  one 
yediV  free  of  charge  on  receipt  of  two 
7iew  subscriptions  for  one  year, —  our 
circulations,  and  with  it  our  means  of 
improvement,  would  increase  rapidly, 
indeed.  No  better  offer  than  the 
above  can  reasonably  be  made  by  this 
or  any  publication,  and  no  means  of 
expansion  can  be  more  satisfactory. 
That  many  of  our  subscribers  may  be 
pleased  to  avail  themselves  of  the  op- 
portunity thus  presented,  we  suggest  to 
them  that  they  make  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  this  number  of  the  magazine, 
with  a  view  to  a  representation  to 
friends  ;  and  we  refer  them  again  to  our 
proposition  as  it  is  stated  elsewhere. 

AT  the  beginning  of  a  new 
/  \  year  we  are  accustomed  to 
jL,  JL  review  the  past  and  make 
good  resolutions  for  the  future.  The 
dawn  of  a  new  century  is  an  hundred- 
fold less  usual  occurrence.  Civilized 
man  may  well  boast  of  his  achieve- 
ments in  the  century  now  past.  The 
good  old  times  were  good  only  in 
their  day.  As  it  has  been  said,  "  we 
have  not  to  go  far  back  to  learn  when 
kings  and  queens  were  worse  fed 
and  clothed  and  housed  than  a  ser- 
vant is  nowadays." 

But  what  may  happen  in    the  next 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


hundred  years  who  can  tell  ?  Among 
the  many  and  striking  achievements 
which  a  writer  in  the  Ladies'  Home 
Journal  says,  according  to  the  predic- 
tions of  the  most  learned  and  con- 
servative minds,  may  be  brought  to 
pass  before  the  close  of  the  present 
century,  these  are  noted :  "  A  century 
from  now  the  population  of  America 
and  its  possessions  will  be  five  hun- 
dred millions.  Trains  will  run  two 
miles  a  minute,  or  a  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  an  hour.  Electric  ships 
will  cross  the  ocean  at  the  rate  of  a 
mile  a  minute.  Automobiles  will  be 
cheaper  than  horses.  The  farmer 
will  turn  winter  into  summer  and 
night  into  day,  and  the  most  lus- 
cious fruits  and  vegetables  will  be 
grown  by  electricity."  But,  of  especial 
interest  to  the  housekeeper,  this  is  the 
climax  :  — 

"  Ready-cooked  meals  will  be  bought 
from  establishments  similar  to  our 
bakeries  of  to-day.  They  will  pur- 
chase materials  in  wholesale  quantities, 
and  sell  the  cooked  foods  at  a  price 
much  lower  than  the  cost  of  individual 
cooking.  Food  will  be  served  hot  or 
cold  to  private  houses  in  pneumatic 
tubes  or  automobile  wagons.  The 
meal  being  over,  the  dishes  used  will 
be  packed  and  returned  to  the  cooking 
establishments,  where  they  will  be 
washed.  Such  wholesale  cookery  will 
be  done  in  electric  laboratories  rather 
than  in  kitchens.  These  laboratories 
will  be  equipped  with  electric  stoves 
and  all  sorts  of  electric  devices,  such 
as  coffee-grinders,  egg-beaters,  stirrers, 
shakers,  parers,  meat-choppers,  meat- 
saws,  potato-mashers,  lemon-squeezers, 
dish-washers,  dish-dryers,  and  the  like. 
All   such  utensils  will   be  washed   in 


chemicals  fatal  to  disease  microbes. 
Having  one's  own  cook  and  purchas- 
ing one's  own  food  will  be  an  extrav- 
agance. 

"  No  foods  will  be  exposed.  Store- 
keepers who  expose  food  to  air 
breathed  out  by  patrons  or  to  the 
atmosphere  of  the  busy  streets  will  be 
arrested  with  those  who  sell  stale  or 
adulterated  produce.  Liquid-air  re- 
frigerators will  keep  great  quantities  of 
food  fresh  for  long  intervals." 

Chimerical  as  all  this  doubtless 
seems,  yet,  if  the  prophecies  be  fully 
realized,  the  gain  to  life  and  comfort 
would  be  scarcely  less  marvellous  than 
that  which  has  been  made  in  the  past 
age.  At  any  rate,  progress  in  science 
and  art  and  in  the  standard  of  living 
is  the  condition  of  prolonged  existence. 
"  When  growth  ceases,  disintegration 
sets  in."  Would  that  advancement  in 
all  that  pertains  to  household  eco- 
nomics, ''  the  science  of  the  relation 
between  efforts  and  satisfactions  for 
the  household"  might  be  the  marked 
feature  of  this  the  twentieth  century  ! 


Were  half  the  power  that  fills  the  world  with 
terror, 
Were  half  the  wealth  bestowed  on  camps 
and  courts, 
Given  to  redeem  the  human  mind  from  error, 
There  were  no  need  of  arsenals  or  forts." 

Longfellow, 


It  is  a  maxim,  as  ancient,  I  believe, 
as  the  time  of  Hippocrates,  that  what- 
ever pleases  the  palate  nourishes.  And 
I  have  often  had  reason  to  think  it 
perfectly  just.  Could  it  be  clearly 
ascertained  and  demonstrated,  it  would 
tend  to  place  cooking  in  a  much  more 
respectable  situation  among  arts  than 
it  now  holds. —  Count  Rumford. 


After  Breakfast  Chat 

By  Janet  M.  Hill 


T  T  E  must  leave  the  omniscience  of  business  at  the  door  when  he  comes  into  the  palace 


of  beauty." 
"  Sit  at  our  fireside  :  we  only  wdden  the  circle  for  you." 

AT  the  beginning  of  the  Christian 
/  \  era,  hospitality  was  enjoined  as 
i  m.  a  sacred  duty.  Timothy  enu- 
merates among  the  attributes  of  a  bishop 
that  he  "  must  be  a  lover  of  hospital- 
ity." The  laity  also  are  exhorted  by 
him  to  "  use  hospitality  one  to  another 
without  grudging."  In  those  days, 
when  inns  did  not  abound,  and  the 
traveller  could  not  readily  procure  food 
and  shelter,  an  indiscriminate  enter- 
taining of  guests  must  have  been  often- 
times a  tax  on  courtesy. 

But,  as  times  changed,  invitations 
began  to  precede  and  become  warrant 
for  the  acceptance  of  hospitality  ;  and 
the  old-time  duty  was  gradually  trans- 
formed into  a  flattering  expression  of 
personal  favor.  For  trust  and  confi- 
dence in  one  whom  you  invite  into  the 
presence  of  your  lares  are  implied. 


Eating  is  a  chief  and  natural  concern 
of  life.  It  is,  moreover,  a  pleasure ; 
and  she  who  charges  herself  with  the 
entertainment  of  a  guest  becomes  re- 
sponsible, in  a  measure  at  least,  for  his 
temporary  comfort  and  happiness. 
Like  all  other  pleasures,  that  of  the 
table  is  increased  as  it  is  shared ;  yet 
those  who  are  bidden  to  break  bread 
together  should  be  congenial  spirits. 
There  needs  be  some  common  ground 
upon  which  all  can  meet.  It  is  Mon- 
taigne who  says  that  a  roan  is  not  so 


much  to  regard  what  he  eats  as 


with 


whom  he  eats  ;  and  he  commends  Chilo 
"  that  he  would  not  engage  himself  to 
be  at  Periander's  feast  till  he  first  was 
informed  who  were  to  be  the  other 
guests."  The  sequence  is  natural ;  for, 
when  one  entertains  another,  and  eats 
and  drinks  with  more  deliberation  than 
is  customary, —  hygienic  considerations 
to  the  contrary, —  the  hour  needs  be 
filled  with  "good  discourse  and  pleas- 
ant talk."  This  it  is  that  best  gives 
relish  to  a  feast. 


Having  bidden,  then,  congenial  com- 
pany to  meet  at  her  table,  the  hostess 
must  needs  give  attention  to  the  food 
that  is  to  supply  the  mental  and  physi- 
cal wants  of  her  guests.  As  no  one 
course  must  be  drawn  out  to  unseemly 
length,  so  no  one  subject  of  conversa- 
tion should  engross  too  much  attention. 
Then,  too,  the  discourse,  like  the  dishes 
in  the  menu,  must  be  such  as  will  be 
appreciated  by  the  company.  Same- 
ness, which  engenders  weariness,  needs 
be  avoided  ;  and  controversy  must  never 
be  admitted.  Upon  the  hostess  de- 
volves largely  the  duty  of  keeping  the 
conversational  ball  rolling  briskly  back 
and  forth,  to  the  end  that  each  guest 
may  take  his  turn  without  apparent  ef- 
fort or  seeming  premeditation.  Truly, 
the  hostess  plays  no  inconsiderable 
part  in  a  successful  evening's  drama ; 


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The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


and,  certainly,  to  cultivate  and  refine 
one's  taste,  to  learn  how  to  lose  one's 
self  in  the  stud}^  of  what  is  pleasing  to 
others,  has  its  influence  in  the  forma- 
tion of  character. 

The  menu  provided  for  the  *'  refec- 
tion "  of  the  physical  body,  while  it 
should  be  in  harmony  with  the  environ- 
ments and  enlivened  by  the  judicious 
introduction  of  little  surprises,  needs 
not  to  be  ornate  or  extravagant. 
"  Flamingoes  from  Sweden,  game  from 
Africa  and  South  America,  and  pears 
from     Assyria"    are    not    called    for. 

Within  the  past  twenty-five  years 
times  have  changed.  The  ''  decline  of 
the  kitchen  "  has  become  an  assured 
fact ;  and  the  dweller  in  a  flat,  be  it  in 
Paris,  New  York,  or  the  suburb  of  a 
more  unpretentious  city,  should  not 
seek  to  assay  the  impossible.  The  vast 
and  seemingly  boundless  resources  of 
the  country  that  once  were  and  made 
lavish  providing  possible  exist  no 
longer.  An  elegant  simplicity,  enough 
and  no  more,  neither  ostentation  nor 
profusion,  mark  the  choicest  entertain- 
ments of  the  present  day.  Perfect 
cookery,  immaculate  surroundings,  and 
dainty  service,  each  stamped  with  the 
hall  mark  of  the  individual  hostess,  will 
exemplify  the  ideal  to  be  sought  for 
by  the  hostess  of  the  new  century. 

And  how  can  one  make  better  prep- 
aration for  the  more  formal  function 
than  at  the  home  table !  Here  are 
others  to  please,  and  those  that  may 
not  always  be  in  the  frame  of  mind  to 
be  easily  satisfied.  Yet,  if  children 
even    be    given    a   handsome,  well-ap- 


pointed table,  they  will  almost  intui- 
tively understand  the  incongruity  be- 
tween this  and  soiled  hands  or  mis- 
conduct. So  the  well  dressed  man, 
woman,  or  child,  is  naturally  compla- 
cent and  at  ease  in  any  company. 
But  to  become  well  dressed  and  well 
fed, —  that  is  another  matter. 

"  Keeping  up  appearances  "  may  be 
considered  vulgar ;  but  within  rightful 
limits  does  it  not  indicate  a  prime  es- 
sential to  successful  attainment  ?  In 
the  matter  of  behavior,  for  instance,  if 
one  wishes  to  appear  refined  and  ami- 
able, does  he  not  make  an  effort  to 
he  as  well  as  seem  amiable  and  refined  ? 
The  very  recognition  of  what  is  seemly 
is  the  first  step  toward  its  attainment. 

^^'ith  the  decline  of  the  kitchen  and 
life  in  apartments,  grand  functions  and 
state  occasions  are  being  left  grad- 
ually to  those  who  possess  spacious 
homes  and  unlimited  means.  But  the 
spirit  of  hospitality  is  not  dead,  only 
its  outward  forms  are  put  upon  a  more 
simple  and  genuine  basis. 

Having  eliminated  from  domestic 
affairs  much  that  is  superfluous,  and 
having  gained  a  broader  knowledge  of 
what  constitutes  the  art  of  living,  the 
housekeeper  of  the  future  will  dis- 
pense her  income  and  time  to  greater 
advantage  than  she  has  done  in  the 
past,  and  her  hospitality  will  subserve 
more  than  a  single  end.  Nor  shall  its 
leading  feature  be  confined  to  the 
"women's  luncheon,"  on  which  occa- 
sion "the  family  "  needs  find  entertain- 
ment or  shelter  abroad  until  the  dread 
hour  of  the  function  has  passed. 


"  Hunger  ist  der  Beste  Koch'' 


Seasonable  Recipes 


IN  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon  and  a  level  cupful  is 
meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful  of 
such  material. 


Vegetable  Stock  for  Soup 

Cut  two  pounds  of  onions  (about 
one  dozen)  and  two  pounds  of  carrots 
(three  or  four  carrots)  into  slices.  Add 
half  a  head  of  celery  cut  in  pieces, 
three  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  thyme  and  marjoram 
mixed,  and  saute'  in  the  soup-kettle  in 
two  cups  of  vegetable  oil  or  drippings, 
until  of  a  delicate  brown  color.  Add 
five  quarts  of  water,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns, 
four  cloves,  and  one  quart  of  dried 
peas,  or  beans  that  have  been  soaked 
over  night.  Let  boil  once,  then  simmer 
three  or  four  hours.  Strain,  let  cool, 
remove  the  fat,  and  use  as  any  stock. 

Poached  Oysters  on  the  Half- 

'  shell 
Butter    as    many   scallop    shells    as 
there  are  individuals  to  serve.    Put  into 


each  shell  about  six  oysters  with  their 
own  liquor,  and  sprinkle  with  salt, 
pepper,  tomato  catsup,  and  a  drop  of 
tabasco  sauce.  Scatter  a  few  bits  of 
butter  here  and  there  on  the  oysters, 
and  set  the  shells  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve 
on  doily-covered  plates  as  soon  as  the 
oysters  look  plump  and  the  edges  curl. 
Put  two  or  three  toast  points  in  each 
shell  or  serve  with  brown-bread  sand- 
wiches. 

Cream  Toast  with  Cheese 
Sprinkle  hot  toasted  bread  thickly 
with  grated  cheese,  and  set  in  the  oven 
until  the  cheese  melts.  Pour  over  hot 
cream  or  white  sauce  made  with  milk, 
and  serve  at  once.  A  beaten  ^g'^  may 
be  added  to  the  sauce  if  desired. 

Macaroni  au  Gratin 
Cook  three-fourths  a  cup  of   maca- 


120 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


Lari^e  Fish   I'russed  to  Boil 

roni,  broken  into  inch  pieces,  in  rapidly 
boiling  water,  until  tender.  Drain  and 
rinse.  Make  a  cup  of  cream  sauce, 
season  with  onion,  if  desired,  and  stir 
in  half  a  cup  of  grated  cheese  and  the 
macaroni.  Turn  into  a  baking-dish  and 
cover  with  half  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs 
stirred  into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter.  Serve  when  the  crumbs  are 
browned.  Substitute  tomato  sauce  for 
the  cream  sauce,  or  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs  to  either  sauce  for  a 
vegetarian  dish,  when  eggs  are  included 
in  the  dietary. 


Fresh  Fish  Boiled 

Lower  the  fish,  fastened  in  an  up- 
right position,  if  whole,  on  a  fish  rack 
or  sheet,  or  coiled  in  a  frying  basket, 
or  tied  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  into 
warm  liquid,  and  bring  quickly  to  the 
boiling-point,  then  let  simmer  until  the 
fiesh  separates  readily  from  the  bones, 
no  longer.  After  simmering  begins, 
it  will  need  cook  from  five  to  eight 
minutes  a  pound,  according  to  the 
thickness  of  the  fish.  Let  the  liquid 
just  cover  the  fish.  Add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar  or  lemon  juice  to  each  two 
quarts  of  water,  or  milk  and  water,  or 
court  bouillon.  L^se  the  liquid  in  mak- 
ing the  sauce.  When  the  fish  is 
cooked,  let  drain  over  the  kettle.  Dress 
with  great  care  on  a  folded  napkin  that 
will  absorb  liquid.  Garnish  plentifully 
with  fresh  parsley  or  cress.  Serve  with 
HoUandaise,  Bechamel,  or  drawn  butter 
sauce.  Eggs,  oysters,  lobsters,  or  pickles 
may  be  added  to  any  of  the  sauces.     A 


Fish  a  la  Creme  with  Potato  Border 


Seasonable  Recipes 


221 


fish  kettle  with  rack  is  of  great  con- 
venience in  draining  and  removing  fish 
whole  and  shapely  to  the  platter.  If 
the  fish  be  longer  than  the  kettle,  it 
may  be  trussed  as  in  the  half-tone  ;  and 
it  will  remain  in  an  upright  position.  If 
lying  at  full  length,  it  needs  be  tied  to 
the  rack. 

Fish  a  la  Creme  with  Potato 
Border 

Prepare  a  duchess  potato  mixture,  or 
use  plain  mashed  potato,  well  seasoned 
and  beaten.  Shape  the  potato  into  a 
wall  on  a  serving-dish  that  will  bear  the 
heat  of  the  oven.  Roll  part  of  the  potato 
into  small  balls,  and  set  them  close  to- 
gether on  the  top  of  the  wall.  Brush 
over  the  potato  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
beaten  slightly,  diluted  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  milk  and  strained.  Have 
ready  an  equal  bulk  of  cold  cooked 
fish,  flaked,  and  white  sauce.  In  mak- 
ing the  sauce,  use  fish  stock  or  milk,  or 
half  and  half.  Add  any  egg  left  after 
brushing  over  the  potato.  Put  alternate 
layers  of  sauce  and  fish  inside  the  wall, 
and  cover  the  top  with  half  a  cup  of 
cracker  crumbs  mixed  with  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Set  the  fish 
in  the  oven  over  hot  water  about  ten 
minutes,  or  until  the  crumbs  and 
potatoes  are  delicately  browned. 

Fillets  of  Fish,  Ambassador 

Style 
Remove  the  fillets  from  two  or  three 
small  flounders,  or  from  a  haddock  or 
cod  weighing  between  three  and  four 
pounds,  and  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  head  and  trimmings,  an  onion 
and  half  a  carrot,  sHced,  a  stalk  of 
celery,  sprig  of  parsley  and  thyme  and 
six  pepper-corns,  over  the  fire  in  water 
to  cover.     Let  boil,  then  simmer  about 


an  hour ;  drain  off  the  broth  and  set 
aside.  Put  the  pieces  of  fish  in  a 
gratin  dish,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
lemon  juice,  add  tw^o  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  and  cook  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  in  the  oven.  Then 
cover  with  a  sauce  made  of  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls 
and  a  half  of  flour,  one-fourth  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  cup  of  the  fish 
stock,  and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cream. 
Flavor  with  one  teaspoonful  of  essence 
of  anchovy  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  Sprinkle  over  the  sauce  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  (or  use  American  cheese)  and 
return  the  dish  to  the  oven  to  melt  the 
cheese.  Decorate  the  dish  with  a 
circle  of  bread  crutons  (fried)  dusted 
with  more  of  the  cheese. 

Salt  Codfish  in  Egg  Cups 

Let  salt  codfish,  picked  in  bits  (not 
shredded),  stand  over  night  or  some 
hours  in  cold  water,  then  drain  and 
wring  out  all  the  water.  To  each 
fourth  a  cup  of  fish  add  half  a  cup  of 
cream  or  thin  white  sauce  and  a  beaten 
egg.  Turn  into  a  buttered  cup,  egg 
shirrer,  or  poacher,  and  cook  standing 
in  hot  water  until  nearly  firm.  The 
water  should  not  boil.  Serve  in  the 
cup  or  turned  from  them,  as  desired. 


Forequarter  of  Mutton,  boned,  steamed,  and 
ready  to  brown  in  the  oven 


222 


The   Boston  Cooking-School    Magazine 


Forequarter  of  Mutton  Steamed 

Remove  the  bones  from  a  forequar- 
ter of  lamb  or  mutton,  and  spread  out 
skin  side  down.  Dust  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  powdered  sweet-herbs  ;  roll  tightly 
into  compact  shape,  and  fasten  with 
twine.  Cover  the  bones  wdth  cold 
water,  and  when  hot  put  in  the  meat 
and  let  simmer  until  tender.  Score  out- 
side in  squares,  brush  with  egg  yolk, 
sprinkle  with  crumbs,  and  brown  in  the 
oven.  Cook  a  slice  of  onion,  two 
slices  of  carrot,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  until  well 
browned.  Add  one-fourth  a  cup  of 
browned  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  a  dash  of  pepper,  and,  when 
frothy,  add  gradually  two  cups  of  the 
broth  from  which  the  fat  has  been 
taken.  Let  boil,  then  simmer  ten  min- 
utes, and  strain. 

Medallions  of  Mutton  with  Pea 

Salad 

Remove    the    bones    and    fat    from 

lamb  or  mutton  chops,  and  skewer  the 

meat  in  rounds.     Braise  the  meat  with 


over  with  liquid  aspic.  Serve  cold  with 
peas  dressed  with  French  dressing. 
If  preferred,  retain  the  rib  bones,  and 
decorate  them  with  a  paper  frill  before 
serving. 

Brown  Chaudfroid  Sauce 
To  a  cup  of  highly  seasoned  brown 
sauce  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  diluted 
with  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cream  and  a 
scant  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  softened 
in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  stock.  Use 
when  cold,  but  still  liquid. 

"Hot-pot"  Mutton 

Cut  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  mut- 
ton from  the  fore-quarter  into  pieces 
for  serving.  Brown  these  in  a  little 
hot  fat,  after  dredging  them  lightly  with 
flour.  Cut  six  potatoes  in  slices,  one- 
fourth  an  inch  thick,  and  parboil  five 
or  six  minutes.  Cut  an  onion  in  slices, 
and  parboil  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  a  layer  of  meat  in  a  casserole,  add 
a  layer  of  potato  and  onion,  and  con- 
tinue the  layers  until  all  the  ingredients 
are  used.     Season  each  layer  with  salt 


Medallions  of  Mutton  with  Pea  Salad 


the  bones  and  fine-cut  vegetables  un- 
til tender ;  cool  under  a  weight,  cover 
with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce,  decorate 
with  white  and  yolk  of  egg,  and  brush 


and  pepper.  Have  the  last  layer  of 
potato,  and  put  them  in  so  that  one  slice 
slightly  overlaps  another,  like  shingles. 
Add  a  few    bits    of    butter    and    cook 


Seasonable  Recipes 


223 


covered,  about  three  hours,  in  a  very 
slow  oven.  Remove  the  cover  for  the 
last  half-hour  so  as  to  brown  the 
potato. 


Mortar  and  Pestle  for  making 
Forcemeat 

Shells  of  Chicken  (Quenelle 
Forcemeat) 

Remove  the  white  meat  from  a  young 
fowl  or  turkey,  scrape  the  flesh  from 
the  fibre  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  adding 
meanwhile  the  unbeaten  white  of  an 
egg  a  little  at  a  time.  Pass  through  a 
puree  sieve  having  about  twelve  holes 
to  each  linear  inch.  Measure  the  pulp, 
and  for  each  cup,  allowing  for  the 
white  of  egg,  add  half  a  cup  of  pan- 
ada, one-third  a  cup  of  butter,  either 
the  whites  or  yolks  of  two  eggs,  accord- 
ing to  the  color  preferred,  one-fourth 
a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  salt  and 
pepper  as  desired.  In  making  force- 
meat with  a  larger  quantity  of  pulp 
than  one  cup,  note  that  the  proportion 
of  egg  is  three  halves  of  egg  to  one 
cup  of  meat  or  iish  pulp  measured  after 
it  is  pressed  through  the  sieve.  In  the 
above  recipe  one  white  is  added  to  the 


pulp  in  the  mortar,  as  by  this  means  it 
is  pounded  and  pressed  through  the 
sieve  more  easily.  Mix  the  ingre- 
dients together  thoroughly  and  press 
again  through  the  sieve,  then  beat  in 
very  gradually  one  cup  of  cream. 
Press  the  mixture  into  well-buttered 
shells  sprinkled  with  fine-chopped  pars- 
ley, ham,  or  truffles,  set  them  on  a  thick 
folded  paper,  pour  water  around  the 
shells,  and  poach  in  the  oven  about 
twenty  minutes.  Press  part  of  the 
forcemeat  on  to  a  buttered  paper, 
forming  small  quenelles.  Put  the 
paper,  quenelle  side  down,  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  water  "just  off  the  boil,"  and 
let  poach  ten  minutes.  Skim  from  the 
water,  and  add,  with  small  rounds  cut 
from  slices  of  cold  boiled  tongue  or 
dark  meat  of  fowl,  to  a  cup  of  sauce 
made  of  chicken  stock  and  cream, 
thickened  with  flour  and  the  yolk 
of  an  egg.      Dress    the    shells    crown 


Puree  Sieve  and  Wooden  Spoon 

fashion    on    a  serving-dish,    with    the 
quenelles  and  sauce  in  the  centre. 

Bread  Panada 
Soak  white  bread  free  from  crust  in 


224- 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


cold  water  to  cover,  until  well  softened. 
Then  turn  into  a  napkin  and  press  out 
the  water.  Add  milk  or  white  stock. 
Cook  and  stir,  until  a  paste  is  formed 
that  clings  together  and  leaves  the 
sides  of  the  pan. 


tender.  Drain  out  the  celery,  strain 
the  liquid,  and  remove  the  fat.  Use 
the  liquid  with  more  stock,  if  needed, 
in  making  a  cup  and  a  half  of  sauce. 
Pour  this  over  the  celery,  and  serve 
garnished  with  parsley. 


Shells  of  Chicken  Forcemeat  with  Quenelles,  etc. 


Jerusalem  Artichokes 

Wash  and  scrape  the  desired  num- 
ber of  artichokes.  Cover  with  boiling 
salted  water  and  cook  until  tender 
(about  half  an  hour),  drain,  dust  with 
salt,  and  set  on  the  back  of  the  range 
to  evaporate  the  moisture.  Serve 
with  melted  butter  or  with  white  or 
Bechamel  sauce. 

Celery  with  Sauce 
Trim  away  the  outside  leaves  of 
three  heads  of  celery,  cut  the  roots  to  a 
point,  and  trim  off  the  tops  of  the  stalks, 
leaving  the  heads  six  inches  in  length  ; 
wash  and  blanch  ten  minutes  in  boil- 
ing water,  drain,  cover  with  cold  water, 
and  wash  carefully.  Tie  the  heads  in  a 
bundle  and  put  in  a  stesv-pan  with 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  stock  or 
water,  or  half  of  each.  Add  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  fat  from  the  top  of  stock,  half 
a  carrot,  half  an  onion,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne, 
cover,  and  let  simmer  two  hours  or  until 


Barlev  Bread 

To  two  and  one-half  cups  of  hot 
mush,  made  of  barley  crystals,  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  cottolene,  or  lard.  When 
lukewarm,  add  one-third  to  three  whole 
yeast  cakes  softened  in  half  a  cup  of 
lukewarm  water,  and  wheat  flour  to 
knead.  Finish  as  any  bread,  bak- 
ing the  loaves  in  F^rench  bread-pans. 
Mush  made  from  other  breakfast  ce- 
reals may  be  substituted  for  the  barley. 

Stuffed   Onions 

Cook  ten  or  twelve  onions  in  salted 
water,  changing  the  water  twice,  about 
an  hour  or  until  nearly  tender ;  drain 
and  cool.  Take  out  the  centre  of  each 
onion  without  disturbing  the  outside 
layers ;  to  this  add  six  mushrooms, 
saute'd  five  minutes  in  butter,  chop 
fine,  add  half  a  cup  of  bread  crumbs 
and  cream  or  white  sauce  to  mix ;  sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  and 


Seasonable   Recipes 


225 


fill  the  open  space  in  the  onions  with 
the  mixture.  Put  in  a  buttered  bak- 
ing-dish, sprinkle  the  top  with  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs  stirred 
into  a  fourth  a  cup  of  melted  butter, 
and  bake  about  twenty  minutes,  bast- 
ing carefully  with  a  little  butter  and 
hot  water. 

Cheese  Bouchees. 

Bake  small  patties  of  puff  paste, 
having  them  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  diameter.  When  ready  to  serve, 
reheat  and  fill  with  the  following  cheese 
preparation.  Sprinkle  the  top  of  the 
cheese  with  fine-chopped  parsley  and 
replace  the  cover  (piece  of  paste  cut 
out  to  form  the  pattie  or  the  centre 
removed  after  the  pattie  was  baked). 
Serve  very  hot  as  a  "savory,"  either  at 
the  beginning  or  end  of  dinner. 

Cheese  Cream  for  Bouchees 
Let  half    a  cup  of   Bechamel  sauce 
(white  sauce  with    chicken    stock  and 


stand  over  hot  water  until  the  cheese 
is  melted,  then  beat  thoroughly,  and 
serve  at  once  as  filling  for  bouchees. 

Indian  Tapioca 
Mix  together  one-third  a  cup  of 
quick-cooking  tapioca  and  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  Indian  meal,  and  sprinkle  into  a 
quart  of  scalded  milk.  Stir  and  cook 
until  the  tapioca  becomes  transparent. 
Add  one  cup  of  molasses,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  turn  into  a  but- 
tered baking-dish.  Pour  over  the  top  a 
cup  and  a  half  of  cold  milk,  set  into 
the  oven  without  stirring,  and  bake 
about  an  hour. 

Apples  Baked  with  Almonds 
Core  and  pare  six  or  eight  tart 
apples,  let  simmer  in  a  cup,  each,  of 
sugar  and  water  boiled  together  two 
or  three  minutes  until  nearly  tender. 
Turn  the  apples  often  to  avoid  break- 
ing.    A  little  lemon  juice  added  to  the 


Apples  Baked  with  Almonds,      Garnish  of  Jelly 


cream,  half  and  half,  as  the  liquid),  half 
a  cup  of  cream,  a  few  grains  of  paprika, 
and  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  Cheddar 
or    Gruyere    cheese,   sliced  very    thin, 


syrup  will  improve  the  flavor,  or,  if 
the  apples  be  rubbed  with  the  cut  side 
of  a  lemon,  it  will  help  keep  them 
white    during   the    cooking.       Set   the 


226 


The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


apples  in  an  agate  pan,  and  press  into 
them  almonds  blanched  and  split  in 
halves.  Dredge  with  powdered  sugar 
and  brown  in  the  oven.  Ser\e  hot 
with  jelly  or  whipped  cream. 

English  Pudding 
Cream  half  a  cup  of  butter,  add  one 
cup  of  stoned  and  cut  raisins,  a  cup 
each  of  molasses  and  sweet  milk,  and 
three  cups  and  a  half  of  flour  sifted, 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  mace,  cinnamon,  and 
clove,  mixed.  Steam  in  a  buttered 
mould  three  hours.  Serve  with  hard 
sauce. 

Candied  Orange  Peel 

Let  the  peel  of  the  oranges  cut  in 
halves  soak  in  strong  salted  water 
about  three  days.  Drain  and  repeat 
three  times.  Cover  with  cold  water, 
let  boil,  then  drain,  and  repeat  if  the 
peel  tastes  salty.  Drain  thoroughly 
on  a  sieve.     Make  a  syrup  of  a  pound 


Basket  of  Candied  Orange  Peel  holding 
Bonbons 

of  sugar  and  a  pint  of  water,  skim, 
and  in  it  simmer  one  pound  of  peel 
cut  in  narrow^  strips  until  it  is  tender 
and  transparent  and  the  syrup  nearly 
absorbed,  then  boil  rapidly,  and  stir 
until  well  coated  with  sugar.  Let  dry 
a  little  in  the  oven,  and  put  aside  ;  or 
weave  the  strips,  when  hot  and  pliable, 
into  small  baskets  in  which  bonbons 
may  be  served.  If  the  thin-skinned 
Tangerine  or  Messina  oranges  be 
used,  soaking  in  salted  water  is  un- 
necessary. 


Orange  Bavariose.      See  Query  435 


Menus  for  One  Week  in  Lent.        jHarcf) 


Diet  cures  more  than  the  doctor. —  Orion. 


'^rea.kfa.st 

Barley  Crystals,  Butter  or  Cream. 

Cream  Toast  with  Cheese. 

Poached  Oysters  on  the  Half-shell. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

^nner 

Split  Pea  Soup. 

Haddock,  Stuffed  and  Baked. 

Onions  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potato. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Lemon  Sherbet.     Cookies. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Health-food  Bread  and  Butter. 

Apple  Tartlets.     Cocoa. 


^Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat,  Cream. 

Poached  Eggs,  Black  Butter. 

Saratoga  Corn  Cake. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce  and  Fish  Salad. 

Entire  Wheat-bread  Sandwiches. 

Lemon  Jelly  with  Nuts. 

Tea. 

^nner 

Potato  Soup,  Entire-wheat  Bread  Sticks. 

Macaroni  and  Cheese  Croquettes.     Tomato  Sauce. 

Lettuce,  Lima  Bean,  and  Pimento  Salad. 

(French  Dressing  with  Onion  Juice.) 

Chocolate  Custard      Cake. 

Black  Coffee. 


"BreakUst 

Quaker  Oats,  Cream,  Sugar. 

Puffy  Omelet.      Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Dry  Toast.     Cereal  Coffee. 


Luncheon 
Split-pea  Soup,  Croutons 
Evaporated  Peaches,  Stewe 


Neufchatel  Ch 


Split-pea  Sou] 

" " ''   ^'ea<_ucft,  oiewec 
leese.     Hominy  Muffins.     Tea. 

^nner 

Clam  Bouillon  (canned). 
Haddock  Rechauffee  with  Potato. 

Tomato  Custard. 

Watercress  Salad. 

Baked  Apples  with  Almonds,  Cream. 

Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Ralston  Breakfast  Food,  Cream. 

Broiled  Finnan  Haddie. 

Potatoes  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Buckwheat  Griddle  Cakes.     Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Tomato  Jelly  moulded  with  Eggs. 

Lettuce,  Boiled  Dressing. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. 

Indian  Tapioca  Pudding.     Cereal  Coffee. 

dinner 

Tomato  Soup,  Oatmeal  Sticks. 

Welsh  Rarebit  or  Golden  Buck. 

Spinach  Salad,  Mayonnaise. 

Pineapple  Sherbet.     Cake. 

Black  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Baltimore  Samp,  Syrup,  Cream. 

Salt  Codfish  in  Egg  Shirrers. 

Vitos  Muffins.     Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Buttered  Lima  Beans  (dried  or  canned). 

Oatmeal  Bread  and  Butter. 

Fig  Pie. 

Tea. 

"THnner 

Cream  of  Celery. 

Haddock  Baked  with  Oysters. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 

Lettuce  Salad.     Cheese  Bouch^es. 

Black  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits.     Baked  Apples,  Cream. 

Scrambled  F.ggs.     French  Fried  Potatoes. 

Hominy  Muffins. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Sliced  Oranges.     Edam  Cheese. 

Muffins. 

Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Cream  of  Spinach,  Croutons. 

Salted  Salmon,  Boiled,  Egg  Sauce. 

Plain  Boiled  Potatoes. 

New  or  Canned  Beets. 

Queen  of  Puddings. 

Black  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Rolled  Wheat. 

Stewed  Figs,  Cream. 

Eggs  in  the  Shell. 

Baked  Potatoes. 
Popovers.     Tea. 


Luncheon 

Salmon  in  Cream. 

Toast. 

Apple  Pie. 

Neufchatel  Cheese. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Dinner 

Mock  Bisque  Soup,  Croutons. 

FriedOysters,PhiladelphiaRelish. 

Macaroni  au  Gratin. 

Orange  Jelly, 

with  sections  of  Orange. 

Black  Coffee. 


Menus   for   Family   of  17. 

{$^  per  Bay  for  Food.) 

The  smell  of  it  [hot  mutton  pasty]  was  enough  to  make  an  empty  man  thank  God 
for  the  room  there  was  inside  him. —  Lorna  Doom. 


< 

CO 


< 
o 


< 

CO 

W 

H 


'=Breakf2Lsi 

Vitos,  Stewed  Peaches,  Milk  (top  of  the  can), 
(i)  Eegs  in  Shell.     (2)  Salt  C9dfish  Balls. 


Slice  of  Bacon. 
White  Bread. 


Commeal  Muffins. 
Cereal  Coffee. 


'TXnner 

Stewed  Chicken  (Fowl),  Potatoes. 

Macaroni  with  Tomato  and  Cheese. 

Canned  String  Beans.     Cole  Slaw. 

Frozen  Custard. 

Plain  Cake  with  Currants. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Supper 

Oyster   Soup.     Browned   Crackers. 

Cranberry  Sauce.     Gingerbread. 

Weak  Tea  or  Milk. 


'Breakfast 

Quaker  Oats,  Stewed  Apricots,  Milk. 

Chopped  Ham  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Toast,  Poached  Eggs. 

Muffins. 

Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  Tomatoes.      Macaroni  with  Cheese. 

Cup  Custards.     Cookies. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

'J)inner 

Beef  Broth  with  Barley  (canned) . 

First  3  Ribs  from  Fore  Quarter  of  Beef,  Roasted. 

Turnips  Cooked  with  Meat.     Mashed  Potato. 

Apple  Sauce.     Lettuce  (4  heads). 

Baked   Indian  and  Tapioca   Pudding. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits,  Baked  Apples,  Milk  (top  of  the  can). 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Bits  of  Chicken. 

Potatoes  Creamed. 

Toast.     Quick  Buckwheat  Cakes.     Syrup. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Kornlet  Soup. 

Entire  Wheat  Rolls,  Butter. 

One  Orange. 

^nner 

Roast  Leg  of  Mutton  (Two  required). 

Potatoes  Browned  with  the  Meat. 

Succotash    (Dried   Beans  and   Com). 

Boiled  Rice  with  Parsley.     Celery. 

Stewed   Prunes  with   Lemon   Jelly. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


'Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat. 

Broiled  Fish   (Fresh  or  Salt). 

Baked  Potato  Cakes.     Entire  Wheat  Muffins. 

Oranges.     Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cold  Ham,  Sliced  Thin. 

Canned  Strawberry  Beets,  Vinegar. 

Bread  and  Butter.  Indian  Suet  Pudding. 

Cocoa. 

THnner 

Beef  Stew,  Bread  and  Butter. 

C el ery-and- apple  Salad. 

Fig  Ice-cream  (Junket).     Cookies. 

Weak  Tea  (if  desired). 


breakfast 

Ralston  Breakfast  Food  with  Raisins,  Milk. 

Cold  Boiled  Ham.      Baked  Potatoes. 

Milk  Toast  or  Fried  Rice,  Home-made  Syrup. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cream  of  Celery 

(Chicken    Giblets,   etc.). 

Bread  and  Butter. 

Apple  Tapioca  Pudding,  Milk. 

'TXnner 

Mutton  Croquettes,  Canned  Peas. 

Baltimore  Samp  with  Parsley. 

Baked  Bananas  (i  each).  Cabbage  Salad. 

Corn-starch  Pudding,  Chocolate  Sauce. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Grape  Nuts,  Milk. 

Creamed  Celery  with  Poached  Eggs. 

Toast.     Doughnuts.     Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Split-pea  Soup,  Croutons  or 

Chopped-ham  Sandwiches  and  Cereal  Coffee. 

Bread  Pudding  with  Jelly  and  Meringue. 

Bananas  (if  desired). 

"LXnner 

Boned  Fillets  of  Haddock  Baked 

with  Oysters.     Oyster  Sauce. 

Mashed  Potato.     Buttered  Parsnips. 

Bread-and-cheese  Custard.         Cole  Slaw. 

Canned    Pears.      Cookies. 

Cereal  Coffee  (if  desired). 


"Breakfast 

Old  Gristmill  Rolled  Wheat 

with  Dates,  Butter. 

Boston  Baked  Beans 

(cooked  over  night) . 
Radishes.         Cornmeal  Muffins. 

Cocoa. 


Luncheon 

Scalloped  Haddock  and  Oysters. 

Bread    and    Butter. 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

(Canned) . 

Apples. 

Cereal  Coffee  (if  desired). 


"Dinner 

Sirloin  Steak. 

Buttered  Lima  Beans  (dried). 


Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Celery  Salad.     Bread  and  Butter. 

Canned    Peach    and 

Tapioca  t  adding. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


Concerning  the  Menus 


Editor  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine  : 

Dear  Madam, —  Can  I  supply  the  food 
for  a  family  of  seventeen,  of  which  thir- 
teen are  school-boys,  for  $5  per  day,  giv- 
ing a  roast  or  poultry  daily  at  dinner  and 
fresh  meat  for  breakfast? 

A  problem  like  the  one  suggested  by 
the  question  above  is  most  difficult  of 
solution.  Here  the  item  of  expense 
must  be  strictly  limited,  and  yet 
strength  on  the  part  of  the  boys  to  ac- 
complish well  the  tasks  in  hand  must 
be  assured.  In  other  words,  each  in- 
dividual must  be  fed  to  secure  proper 
physical  development  and  power  to 
accomplish  a  certain  amount  of  pre- 
scribed mental  work.  And,  besides, 
the  caterer  is  apt  to  be  handicapped 
by  the  preconceived  and  often  foolish 
ideas  in  regard  to  food  and  food 
values  which  school  children  bring 
with  them  from  their  homes.  Fre- 
quently, too,  healthy  appetite  for  plain, 
wholesome  food  is  wanting.  The  lat- 
ter condition  is  more  common  in  case 
of  girls.  It  is  due  perhaps,  in  part,  to 
sedentary  life  in  ill-ventilated  rooms  ; 
and  it  may  be  fostered,  also,  by  the 
habit  of  nibbling  at  dainties  and  con- 
fectionery, for  which  means  are  pro- 
vided from  indulgent  homes.  In  her 
"Provisional  Standards"  Mrs.  E.  H. 
Richards  gives  the  cost  of  living  for 
students,  officers  of  institutions,  etc.,  in 
groups  of  fifty  to  one  hundred,  as  vary- 
ing from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  cents  per 
day.  This  is  exclusive  of  tea,  coffee, 
condiments,  or  luxuries  of  any  kind. 
For  the  smaller  number  indicated 
above  the  rate  would  be  higher.  The 
solution  of  a  simple  sum  in  arithmetic 
gives  conclusive  answer  to  the  ques- 
tion. 


In  speaking  of  "  The  Food  of 
School-children  and  Students "  the 
same  writer,  who  has  made  a  scientific 
study  of  these  subjects,  says  :  — 

"A  child  of  twelve  to  fifteen  re- 
quires as  much  food  in  actual  weight 
as  a  person  in  the  prime  of  life,  at  fifty 
to  sixty,  and  only  a  little  less  than 
a  hard-working  man.  Insufficient 
food  at  these  ages  causes  more  seri- 
ous consequences  than  at  a  later 
period."  And  in  reference  to  the 
cost  of  the  food  she  says :  "  Sufficient 
and  nutritious  luncheons  can  be  fur- 
nished to  the  pupils  of  a  large  school 
for  from  three  to  five  cents  each ;  but 
from  our  present  knowledge  it  would 
require  about  a  ten-cent  luncheon  to 
satisfy  the  taste  of  the  American 
scholar." 

Considering  that  the  luncheon  calls 
for  one-fourth  of  the  outlay  for  the 
day,  it  follows  that  forty  cents  would 
be  required  to  provide  for  the  three 
meals  of  the  day ;  and,  in  actual  prac- 
tice, at  least  a  fifteen-cent  luncheon 
or  supper  will  be  found  to  be  expected 
by  school-children  who  are  away  from 
home. 

Twenty-nine  cents  a  day  for  an  in- 
dividual's food, —  the  price  suggested 
in  the  query, —  almost,  but  not  quite 
enough,- —  is  a  very  tantalizing  amount 
to  deal  with,  and  particularly  so  when 
a  liberal  and  rather  choice  dietary  is 
demanded.  From  thirty  cents  to  one 
dollar  per  day  for  each  individual  is 
the  sum  usually  deemed  necessary  to 
make  proper  provision  for  a  table  of 
this  class. 

Though  the  daily  roast  and  fresh 
meat  for  breakfast  are   impracticable, 


230 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


and  well-nigh  impossible  at  the  rate 
suggested,  they  may  be  varied  to  the 
advantage  of  the  purveyor  and  with- 
out loss  to  the  consumer.  It  is  well 
known  that  palatability  and  digesti- 
bility are  closely  allied,  also  that  an 
inexpensive  piece  of  meat  may  be 
made  so  palatable  that  it  is  fully  as 
digestible  and  nutritious  as  a  high- 
priced  though  perhaps  carelessly  pre- 
pared roast.  Again,  it  is  well  known 
that  the  digestibility  and  assimilation 
of  food  depend  largely  upon  a  reason- 
able variation  in  the  kind  of  food  pre- 
sented. Physiologically,  proteid  mat- 
ter, a  necessity  in  every  dietary,  but 
doubly  so  where  growing  children  are 
concerned,  is  more  economically  ob- 
tained from  animal  than  from  vege- 
table foods ;  but  the  latter  must  not  be 
discarded. 

The  food  materials  suggested  in  our 
menus  can  probably  be  supplied  for 
about  forty  cents  per  day  for  each  in- 
dividual. In  actual  practice  this  sum 
may  be  cut  down  somewhat ;  but  grow- 
ing boys,  especially  on  half  holidays, 
will  consume  an  amount  of  food  that 
is  almost  fabulous.  But,  if  free  oppor- 
tunity be  given  for  outdoor  exercise, 
even  cheap  homely  fare,  once  having 
been  tasted  and  not  found  wanting,  is 
not  likely  to  be  passed  by  a  second 
time  unless  the  appetite  has  become 
depraved. 

Beef  stew  made  with  care,  the  flavor 
of  no  vegetable  predominating,  and  all 
fat  removed,  if  served  occasionally, 
should  be  a  favorite.  The  best  results 
are  secured  when  it  is  served  the  day 
after  making. 

The  removal  of  skin  and  bone  from 
the  haddock  gives  two  large  fillets. 
These  baked,  with  oysters  rolled  in 
butter   and   cracker   crumbs  between, 


and  carefully  dished,  are  sightly  and 
most  appetizing.  After  dressing  the 
fillets  set  aside  in  a  marinade  until  the 
hour  of  cooking,  and  the  flavor  will  be 
improved.  Finally,  in  a  jmatter  of  this 
nature,  all  things  depend  upon  the 
cook.  The  same  bill  of  fare  in  the 
hands  of  a  skilled  and  an  unskilled 
cook  may  be  made  as  different  as 
black  and  white.  It  is  the  interpreta- 
tion of  a  menu  that  tells. 

The  Lenten  Menus 

On  account  of  the  heavy  work  the 
kidneys  are  called  upon  to  do  in  the 
elimination  of  the  waste  products 
evolved  so  abundantly  from  a  dietary 
rich  in  flesh,  the  custom  of  refraining 
from  meats  for  a  season  cannot  be  re- 
garded otherwise  than  as  a  step  con- 
ducive to  health.  Likewise  the  dinner 
of  fish  on  Fridays  may  be  commended 
for  the  same  reason. 

In  February  and  March  frozen 
salmon  brought  overland  from  Oregon 
is  purchasable.  Let  thaw  in  cold  water, 
then  cook  at  once.  Lobster  is  des- 
tined, it  seems,  to  be  high  in  price. 
In  this  connection  we  are  reminded  of 
Cowper's  little  poem  to  his  friend,  Mrs. 
Newton  :  — 

Cocoanut  naught, 

Fish  too  dear, 
None  must  be  bought 

For  us  that  are  here. 

No  lobster  on  earth 

That  ever  I  saw 
To  me  would  be  worth 

Sixpence  a  claw. 

So,  dear  Madam,  wait 

Till  fish  can  be  got 
At  a  reasonable  rate, 

Whether  lobster  or  not, — 

Till  the  French  and  the  Dutch 
Have  quitted  the  seas, — 

And  then  send  as  much 
And  as  oft  as  you  please. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating  to 
menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  culinary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must 
reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to 
appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  mail,  please  enclose  postage  stamp;  for  menus,  $i. 
Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor  Boston  Cookhig-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston 
^  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  427. —  Mrs.  M.  F.  S.,  Bedford, 
Mass. :  "  Kindly  tell  just  how  to  make 
shirred  eggs,   and   how   they  are  served." 

Shirred  Eggs 
Break  an  egg  into  a  buttered  cup, 
set  the  cup  in  hot  water  into  the  oven, 
and  cook  until  the  yolk  is  set.  Serve 
in  the  cup.  The  cup  may  be  lined 
with  bread  crumbs  mixed  with  cream 
and  seasoned  before  the  ^gg  is  put 
into  it.  Cover  the  top  of  the  ^gg  with 
more  of  the  mixture,  and  cook  as  be- 
fore. 

Query  428.—  Mrs.  H.  H.,  New  York 
City  :  "  Kindly  give  a  recipe  for  Mocha 
cream  with  sugar  instead  of  syrup." 

Mocha  Cream  with  Sugar 
Wash  the  salt  from  a  cup  of  butter 
and  beat   to  a  cream.     Add  gradually 
two  cups    and    one-half   of    powdered 
sugar,    and    coffee   extract  to  taste. 


Query  429. —  Mrs.  C.  E.  S.,  Brooklyn, 
N.Y.  :  "  Recipes  for  Graham  muffins, 
smooth  and  creamy  inside,  Graham  gems, 
and  Yorkshire  pudding." 

Graham  Muffins 

See  general  rule  for  muffins,   page 

68,  August-September  issue.    Use  one 

cup,  each,  of  Graham  and  pastry  flour. 

Probably    a    more    "  creamy "    muffin 


can  be  made,  if  the  materials  be  put 
together  in  the  same  fashion  as  a 
cake  mixture.  Namely,  cream  one- 
third  a  cup  of  butter,  add  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  sugar  gradually,  then  one 
^%g  beaten  light,  and,  alternately,  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  milk  and  one  cup, 
each,  of  pastry  and  Graham  flour  sifted 
with  three  level  teaspoonfuls  and  one- 
half  of  baking-powder,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Bake  in  hot  buttered 
gem-pans  about  twenty-five  minutes. 
More  milk  may  be  needed.  The  mixt- 
ure should  be  of  the  consistency  of 
a  drop  batter.  Half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda  and  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
cream  of  tartar,  instead  of  the  baking- 
powder  given,  will  insure  a  muffin  of  a 
finer  and  more  even  porosity. 

Graham  Gems 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  Graham 
flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  one  cup 
each  of  milk  and  water  (or  two  cups 
of  milk),  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  and  stir  into  the  dry 
ingredients.  Add  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  beaten  dry,  and  bake  in  very 
hot  buttered  gem-pans  about  half  an 
hour. 


232 


The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


Yorkshire  Pudding 
Sift  together  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  one  cup  and  a  half  of  pastry 
flour.  Stir  in  gradually  one  cup  and 
a  half  of  milk  so  as  to  form  a  smooth 
batter.  Then  add  three  eggs  beaten, 
without  separating,  until  thick  and 
light,  and  turn  into  a  hot  gem-pan, 
after  brushing  the  inside  with  the 
dripping  from  roast  beef.  Bake  nearly 
half  an  hour.  After  the  pudding  is 
well  risen,  baste  with  the  fat  from  the 
roast  beef.  Serve  around  the  roast. 
Set  the  gem-pan  into  a  dripping-pan 
before  basting.  The  pudding  may 
also  be  baked  in  a  small  dripping-pan, 
and  cut  in  squares  for  serving. 


Query  430. —  Miss  A.  M.,  Columbia, 
S.C.,  sends  the  two  following  recipes  that 
were  called  for  some  months  ago :  — 

Rich  Taylor  Cakes 

Twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  five  ounces 
of  cottolene,  five  eggs,  one  cup  of 
milk,  one  quart  of  molasses,  one  ounce 
of  ground  cinnamon,  thirty  ounces  of 
flour,  and  half  an  ounce  of  soda. 
Beat  the  cottolene  to  a  cream,  add 
the  sugar  and  cinnamon,  then  add 
the  eggs  well  beaten,  the  molasses, 
milk,  flour  and  soda  sifted  together. 
Drop  the  dough  by  the  tablespoon- 
ful  on  to  buttered  baking-pans,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  By  meas- 
ure the  ingredients  are,  one  cup  and 
a  half  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  and  a 
level  tablespoonful  of  cottolene,  two 
level  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  seven 
and  one-half  cups  of  flour,  and  a 
level  tablespoonful  of  soda. 

Pecan  or  Peanut  Sticks  or  Balls 

Boil  molasses,  until  it  hardens  when 
tried  in  cold  water.    Add  a  little  butter 


and  vanilla  extract  and  shelled  pecan- 
nut  meats  or  peanuts  to  make  quite 
thick  with  nuts.  With  buttered  hands 
form  into  balls  two  or  three  inches  in 
diameter,  or  pour  into  a  buttered  pan, 
and,  when  slightly  cool,  cut  into  strips 
with  a  knife  wet  in  hot  water.  The 
sticks  may  be  curled  around  a  rod  if 
wished.  In  the  recipe  for  pecan  sticks 
previously  given  the  omission  of  the 
flour  was  intentional,  as  no  flour  is 
used. 

Query  431. —  Mrs.  E.  E.  P.,  Zanesville, 
Ohio  :  "  Kindly  give  the  proportions  of 
the  ingredients  for  making  macaroons  of 
almond  paste." 

Ingredients  for  Macaroons 
We  have  had  good  results  in  using 
the  proportions  given  in  the  printed 
directions  that  come  in  each  package 
of  almond  paste.  The  following  pro- 
portions have  also  been  found  satis- 
factory :  half  a  pound  of  almond  paste, 
the  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  three- 
eighths  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 
Work  together  the  paste  and  sugar. 
Add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  gradually, 
and  work  until  the  mixture  is  smooth. 
Bake  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven,  if  liked  dry ;  less  time  and 
in  a  quicker  oven,  if  preferred  moist. 


Query  432. — Mrs.  H.  M.,  Boston, 
Mass :  "  Kindly  tell  how  and  with  what 
to  serve  the  Canton  ginger  that  comes  in 
jars ;  also,  what  are  the  best  charcoal 
broilers." 

Canton  Ginger 

Canton  ginger  is  very  acceptably 
served  with  any  ice  with  which  the 
flavor  combines  or  contrasts  agreeably. 
After  the  ice  has  been  passed,  pass 
the  ginger  cut  in  suitable  pieces,  and 
surrounded  with  the  syrup.  Serve 
from  a  small  cut  glass  or  china  dish,  or 


Queries  and  Answers 


•^33 


from  the  jar  in  which  it  came,  resting 
on  a  doily-covered  plate.  Carefully 
clean  the  outside  of  the  jar,  but  do 
not  remove  the  wicker  covering.  This 
ginger  chopped  fine  and  mixed  with 
the  syrup  is  also  added  to  ices  :  sher- 
bet, cream,  or  mousse.  The  flavor  of 
lemon  harmonizes  best  with  ginger. 
A  ginger  Bavarian  cream  is  also  made 
with  this  ginger. 

Charcoal  Broilers 
The  Bliss  charcoal  broiler  is  the 
only  charcoal  broiler,  with  which  we 
are  familiar,  that  can  be  used  upon  any 
stove  connected  with  a  chimney,  and 
either  with  or  without  a  fire  in  the 
stove. 

Query  433. —  Mrs.  R.,  Boston  :  '«  Recipe 
for  compote  of  French  chestnuts." 

Compote  of  French  Chestnuts 
With  a  sharp-pointed  knife  slit  each 
chestnut  shell  across  one  side.  Cook 
a  minute  in  boiling  water,  drain  well, 
and  let  dry.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter  for  each  pint  of  nuts,  and  stir 
and  shake  over  the  fire  three  or  four 
minutes.  Then  remove  the  shell  and 
skin  together.  Keep  the  nuts  covered 
with  a  thick  cloth,  as  they  shell  better 
when  hot.  Soak  the  shelled  nuts  in 
cold  water  to  cover,  to  which  is  added 
a  little  citric  acid,  or  a  larger  quantity 
of  lemon  juice,  seven  or  eight  hours. 
This  is  to  harden  the  nuts,  that  they 
may  not  break  in  pieces  while  cooking. 
A  quantity  of  acid  about  equal  to  the 
size  of  a  shelled  nut  may  be  used  with 
each  pint  of  shelled  nuts.  The  acid  is 
harmless;  but,  if  more  be  used,  the 
taste  will  be  noticeable.  The  nuts  are 
in  the  best  condition  for  preserving 
in    syrup  or  as  glace  nuts,  when  they 


are  first  gathered  in  the  fall.  They 
dry  out  very  quickly,  and  then  are 
likely,  to  fall  in  pieces  while  cooking. 
After  soaking  the  chestnuts  in  the  acid 
water,  drain,  and  cover  with  plenty  of 
boiling  water.  Let  boil.  Then  cook 
about  two  hours  with  the  water  barely 
quivering  at  one  side  of  the  pan.  When 
sufficiently  tender,  drain,  and  cover  with 
a  syrup  made  of  sugar  and  water,  each 
equal  in  weight  to  the  weight  of  the 
nuts,  and  a  piece  of  a  vanilla  bean. 
Keep  hot  without  boiling  two  hours. 
Drain  off  half  the  syrup,  reduce  about 
one-half,  pour  over  the  nuts,  and  keep 
hot  one  hour.  Drain  off  all  the  syrup, 
strain,  and  reduce  a  little,  and,  when 
cold,  pour  over  the  nuts.  If  the  syrup 
sugars  when  cold,  add  a  little  hot  water, 
let  boil,  and  use  cold. 


Query  434. —  L.  W.,  Saratoga  Springs, 
N.Y.,  and  Mrs.  E.  E.  P.,  Zanesville,  Ohio: 
"  Recipe  in  detail  for  marrons  glaces 
made  from   French  or  Italian  chestnuts." 

Marrons   Glaces 

Prepare  the  chestnuts  as  for  the 
compote  above.  Dry  the  nuts,  then 
take  them  one  by  one  on  a  skewer, 
and  dip  into  sugar  and  water  that  has 
been  cooked  to  340  degrees.  Lay  the 
nuts  on  an  oiled  paper  to  cool.  Re- 
move the  syrup  from  the  fire  as  soon 
as  the  thermometer  registers  the 
proper  number  of  degrees.  If  it  be- 
comes too  cold,  let  stand  in  hot  water. 


Query  435.— Mrs.  W.  G.  W.,  Pitts- 
ford,  N.Y. :  "Recipes  for  orange  bavari- 
ose  and  orange  compote." 

Orange   Bavariose 
Let  one-fourth  a  package  of  gelatine 
soften  in  one-third  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
and  dissolve  by  standing  over  the  tea- 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


kettle,  or  in  hot  water.  Strain  into  one 
cup  of  orange  juice  and  pulp,  without 
seeds  or  pith,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar.  Stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then 
set  into  ice-water  and  stir,  until  the 
mixture  begins  to  thicken.  Then  fold 
in  the  whip  from  one  pint  of  thin 
cream  or  from  one  cup  of  thick  cream 
diluted  with  one  cup  of  milk.  Turn 
into  a  mould  lined  with  lady  fingers  or 
sections  of  orange.  If  the  mould  be 
lined  with  lady  fingers,  serve  with  an 

Orange  Compote 
Remove  the  skin  and  white  pith 
from  the  oranges,  and  cut  each  orange 
into  three  slices  crosswise.  Remove 
the  seeds  and  pith  from  the  centres. 
Make  a  syrup  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  a  cup 
of  water,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  In  this  cook  the  slices  of 
orange  until  tender,  turning  them 
often  to  retain  the  shape.  When  ten- 
der, remove  from  the  syrup.  Boil  this 
until  quite  thick,  then  pour  over  the 
slices  of  orange. 


Query  436. —  Mrs.  C.  A.  M.,  Cam- 
bridge, Mass. :  "  Recipe  for  old-fashioned 
pan  dowdy  and  for  the  German  Apfel 
Kuchen." 

Pan  Dowdy 
Place  a  half-inch  layer  of  pie  apples, 
pared  and  sliced,  in  a  buttered  baking- 
dish.  Sprinkle  with  sugar  and  a  few 
grains  of  salt.  Add  a  layer  of  cracker 
or  bread  crumbs.  Alternate  the  layers 
of  seasoned  apples  and  crumbs  until 
the  dish  is  filled,  having  the  last  layer 
of  crumbs.  Bake  an  hour.  Serve 
with  cream  or  rich  milk.  A  juicy 
apple  is  needed.  Rhode  Island  green- 
ings used  to  be  considered  the  best  for 
this  dish. 


"  Apfel  Kuchen  "  (Plain) 
Prepare  as  pan  dowdy,  adding  to 
each  layer  of  apples,  sugar,  pieces  of 
butter,  and  fruit  jelly.  When  half 
baked,  pour  over  the  cake  one  cup  of 
sour  cream,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
one-third  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  one- 
fourth  a  cup  of  grated  almonds,  mixed 
together.  Then  finish  the  baking. 
Pastry  may  be  used  as  a  lower  crust. 
Sprinkle  with  grated  bread  crumbs, 
put  in  the  apples,  cover  with  strips  of 
pastry  to  form  lattice-work,  and  bake 
in  a  rather  quick  oven. 

Mannheim  "Apfel   Kuchen" 

Prepare  a  cake  dough  of  three 
ounces  of  butter,  six  ounces  of  sugar, 
five  eggs,  lemon  peel,  and  half  a  pound 
of  flour.  Turn  into  a  buttered  baking- 
dish,  sprinkle  with  grated  bread,  and 
cover  thickly  with  slices  of  apple. 
Pour  over  the  sour-cream  preparation 
given  above,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 


Query  437. —  Mrs.  L.  W.  A.,  Austin, 
Tex.:  "Kindly  state  some  simple  means 
by  which  an  old  carpet  may  be  freshened 
in  appearance." 

To  brighten  an  Old  Carpet 

After  the  carpet  has  been  thoroughly 
swept,  wipe  over  with  a  cloth  wrung 
out  of  ammonia  and  water.  Use  from 
one  to  four  tablespoonfuls  of  ammonia, 
according  to  strength,  to  a  gallon  of 
lukewarm  water. 


Query  438.— Mrs.  G.  M.  P.,  Pough- 
keepsie,  N.Y. :  "  Recipe  for  coloring  fluids 
for  jellies,  creams,  etc, ;  also  for  chocolate 
cake,  in  which  both  the  cake  and  filling 
are  creamy." 

Fluids  for  Tinting  Food 

We  are  unable  to  give  recipes  for 
"  coloring  fluids "  that  may  be  kept 
on  hand    for    use   as    occasion    arises. 


Queries  and  Answers 


'^3S 


Several  brands  put  up  by  reputable 
dealers  may  be  found  at  the  grocers  or 
druggists.  These  are  inexpensive  and 
harmless. 

Chocolate  Cake 

Ingredients  for  a  large  cake :  one 
cup  of  butter,  two  cups  of  sugar,  four 
eggs,  one  cup  of  milk,  three  cups  of 
flour,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  and  one- 
half  of  baking-powder,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  The  creamy 
texture  of  a  cake  depends  as  much  on 
the  manner  of  mixing  as  upon  the 
recipe.  (See  article  on  Cake,  October- 
November  issue  of  this  magazine.) 
Cakes  made  with  yolks  of  eggs  wdll 
keep  creamy  and  moist  much  longer 
than  those  in  which  whites  alone  are 
used. 

Snow  Cake  (for  Chocolate  Layer 
Cake) 

Three-fourths  a  cup  of  butter,  two 
cups  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  two  cups 
and  one-half  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
cream  of  tartar,  and  the  whites  of  eight 
eggs. 

Chocolate  Filling 

Mix  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour  with 
one-fourth  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar. 
Stir  into  three-fourths  a  cup  of  hot 
milk,  and  cook  ten  minutes,  stirring 
often.  Beat  one  Q;gg,  and  add  gradually. 
Melt  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  chocolate, 
dilute  with  the  hot  mixture,  stirring 
until  smooth,  then  stir  into  the  rest  of 
the  mixture,  and  set  aside  to  cool. 
Wash  the  salt  from  a  cup  of  butter,  dry 
thoroughly,  beat  to  a  cream,  and  add 
gradually  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar. 
Then  beat  in  gradually  the  chocolate 
mixture  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract. 


Boiled  Chocolate  Frosting 

Boil  two  cups  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of 
milk,  and  two  squares  of  chocolate 
five  or  six  minutes  after  boiling  begins. 
Stir  constantly  while  the  sugar  and 
chocolate  are  melting.  When  cooked 
to  the  soft-ball  stage,  gradually  beat 
into  the  w'hites  of  two  eggs  beaten  until 
very  foamy,  but  not  dry.  Set  into  ice- 
water,  and  beat  occasionally  until  cold, 
then  use  as  filling  and  frosting. 


Query  439. —  Miss :  "Recipe  for 

individual,  rolled,  German  pancakes." 

German  Pancakes 
Mix  one  cup  of  flour,  one-fourth  a 
cup,  each,  of  sugar  and  melted  butter, 
half  a  cup  of  pounded  macaroons,  three 
whole  eggs  and  three  egg-yolks.  Beat 
with  an  egg-beater,  diluting  meanwhile 
to  the  consistency  of  batter  with  cold 
milk.  Cook  in  an  omelet  pan,  first 
on  one  side,  then  turn  and  brown 
the  other  side.  Remove  from  the  pan 
and  spread  lightly  with  preserves, 
jelly,  or  marmalade ;  roll  one  by  one, 
arrange  on  a  baking-sheet,  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  glaze  in  a 
very  hot  oven.  Pare  the  ends,  and 
serve  in  a  circle  around  a  mound  of 
preserves. 

Plain  Pancakes  (German) 
Make  as  above,  using  three  fourths 
a  cup  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  three  eggs, 
and  about  a  pint  of  milk. 


Query  440. —  Miss  I.  Y.  H.,  San  Jos^, 
Gal. :  »  Recipes  for  a  diabetic  using  saccha- 
rine and  gluten  flour." 

Cheese  Wafers  with  Gluten 
Chop  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter  and 
half  a  cup  of  grated  cheese  into  one 
cup  of  gluten  flour.     Add  half  a  tea- 


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The  Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


spoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  paprika,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  cream,  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Mix  well,  and 
roll  out  into  a  thin  sheet.  Cut  in 
rounds  or  squares,  sprinkle  with  grated 
cheese,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Nut  Wafers  with  Gluten 
Substitute  the  meats  of  English  wal- 
nuts or  pecan  nuts  for  the  cheese 
used  in  the  dough,  and  press  a  half 
meat  into  the  top  of  each  wafer.  Bake 
as  before.  All  mixtures  made  of 
gluten  are  more  palatable  when  fresh. 

Cocoanut  Cakes  with  Gluten 
Beat  one  egg.  Add  half  a  cup  of 
sweet  milk  in  which  fifteen  saccharine 
wafers  have  been  dissolved,  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Stir 
in  three-fourths  a  cup  of  gluten  flour 
into  which  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
soda  and  a  level  teaspoonful  of  cream 
of  tartar  have  been  sifted,  also  one  cup 
of  fresh  grated  cocoanut.  Drop  from 
a  spoon,  making  small  cakes.  Bake  in 
a  quick  oven. 

Creamed  Oysters  in  Gluten 
Cases 

Parboil  a  pint  of  oysters,  drain,  and 
keep  hot.  Make  a  sauce  with  two 
tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  crude  gluten 
flour  and  butter  and  half  a  cup,  each, 
of  oyster  liquor  and  cream.  Season 
wdth  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  oysters, 
and  turn  into  gluten  muffins,  from 
which  the  crumb  has  been  removed 
and  the  crust  buttered  and  browned  in 
the  oven.  Serve  at  once.  A  little 
fine  cut  celery,  cooked  until  tender,  may 
be  added  with  the  oysters.  To  make 
the  cases,  cut  out  a  piece  from  the  oval 
side  of  the  muffin,  after  trimming  the 
other  side  to  stand  level.     Brush  the 


cases  inside  and  out  with  melted  butter, 
and  make  crisp  in  the  oven. 


Query  441. —  Mrs.  A.  C.  G.,  Jefferson- 
ville,  Ind.  :  "  Please  give  directions  for 
preparing  and  cooking  mushrooms,  also 
a  recipe  for  cream  of  asparagus." 

Preparation  and  Cooking  of 
Mushrooms 

Discard  all  worm-eaten  or  stale- 
looking  mushrooms.  The  stems,  be- 
ing more  fibrous  and  less  tender  than 
the  caps,  are  often  chopped,  saute'd 
in  a  little  butter,  and  used  to  flavor 
a  dish  in  which  the  caps  are  not  used. 

Champignons  a  la  Algonquin 

Have  ready  in  a  baking-pan  as 
many  rounds  of  stale  bread  as  mush- 
rooms. Remove  the  stems  from  the 
mushrooms,  peel  the  caps,  and  saute 
'  them  in  a  little  hot  butter.  Put  a  cap  on 
each  round  of  bread,  gill  side  up.  Put 
an  oyster  on  each  mushroom  and  a  bit 
of  butter  on  each  oyster,  and  dust  the 
whole  with  salt  and  pepper.  Bake  in 
a  hot  oven  until  the  oysters  look 
plump.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  of 
two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  half  a  cup, 
each,  of  chicken  stock  and  cream. 

Mushrooms  Cooked  under 
Glass 

Saute  one-fourth  a  pound  of  peeled 
mushroom  caps  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter.  Season  with  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of 
pepper.  Add  half  a  cup  of  thin 
cream.  Cover,  and  let  simmer  until 
the  cream  is  somewhat  reduced. 
Then  arrange  on  a  round  of  bread 
in  the  dish,  and  pour  the  liquid  over 
them.      Cover   with    the   glass    made 


Queries  and  Answers 


237 


for  the  purpose,  and  bake  about 
twenty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  An 
agate  dish  and  a  large  jelly  glass 
may  be  used,  provided  the  special 
dish  with  glass  be  not  at  hand. 
Send  the  mushrooms  to  the  table 
covered  with  the  glass. 

Stewed  Mushrooms 
Prepare  and  begin  to  cook  as  in  the 
preceding  recipe,  but  add  a  whole 
cup  or  more  of  cream.  Then  let 
simmer  very  gently  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  with  crackers,  sippets  of  toast, 
or  puff  paste.  Add  brown  or  white 
sauce    instead    of    cream,    if    desired. 

Cream  of  Asparagus 
Cut  the  tips  from  a  bunch  of  as- 
paragus, and  cook  until  tender  in 
salted  boiling  water.  Skim  from  the 
water  and  place  in  the  soup  tureen. 
Cook  the  rest  of  the  asparagus  in 
the  same  water,  adding  more  if 
needed,  and,  when  tender,  press 
through  a  sieve.  For  each  pint  of 
pulp  and  liquid  cook  together  one- 
fourth  a  cup  each  of  butter  and  flour. 
Dilute  gradually  with  a  pint  of  white 
stock  or  milk,  and  cook  ten  minutes. 
When  ready  to  serve,  add  the  pulp  and 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  and  diluted 
with  half  or  a  whole  cup  of  cream. 
Let  heat  over  hot  water,  then  pour 
over  the  tips  in  the  tureen. 


Query  442.—  L.  S.  F.,  Catskill,  N.Y. : 
"  Recipes  for  hashed  brown  potatoes  and 
gluten  bread." 

Hashed   Brown  Potatoes 

Chop  six  cold  boiled  potatoes  very 

fine,  adding  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 

and  a  dash  of  pepper.     Put  one-fourth 

a  cup  of  fat  into  the  frying-pan,  and, 


when  hot,  put  in  the  potatoes,  and 
heat  quickly  and  thoroughly.  Press 
into  one  side  of  the  pan  to  form  an 
omelet.  When  well  browned,  drain 
off  the  fat  and  turn  on  to  a  dish. 
Fat  tried  out  from  salt  pork  is  con- 
sidered the  best. 

Gluten  Bread 
Make  a  sponge  with  three  cups  of 
lukewarm  milk  or  water,  one  cake  of 
compressed  yeast  softened  in  half  a 
cup  of  the  water  previously  given, 
and  one  pint  of  sifted  gluten  flour. 
When  light,  add  one  quart  of  sifted 
gluten  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and,  if  agreeable,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Knead  until 
the  dough  is  smooth  and  elastic, 
and,  when  light,  shape  into  two 
loaves.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  about 
one  hour. 

Query  443. —  Miss  I.  T.  von  H.,  San 
Josd,  Cal. :  '•  Kindly  give  name  of  book 
containing  recipes  for  diabetics." 

Cook  Book  for  Diabetics 
Longmans,  London,  published  in 
189 1  "Cookery  for  the  Diabetic," 
by  W.  H.  and  Mrs.  Poole.  A  second 
edition  was  published  in  1898.  The 
price    in    this    country   is    one    dollar. 


Query  444. —  Mrs.  L.  C.  N.,  Lowell, 
Mass. :  "  When  the  evening  meal  is 
supper  rather  than  dinner,  in  which 
course  should  sauce  or  preserves  be 
served  ?  Is  tea  served  with  the  salad 
or  the  dessert?  Kindly  give  a  few  sup- 
per menus  for  use  in  entertaining." 

Preserves  and  Tea  in  Supper 

Menus 
Cranberry    sauce,    spiced    currants, 
and    similar    confections    are    served 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


with  the  meat  dish  as  a  first  course; 
quince  and  sin:iilar  preserves  or 
canned  fruit  with  wafers,  sponge,  or 
plain  butter  cake  accompanying  the 
last  or  sweet  course.  Tea  is  served 
at  the  beginning,  being  replenished  as 
needed,  or  it  is  served  with  the  sweet 
course.  Coffee  is  preferable,  when  oys- 
ters or  fish  are  served. 

SUPPER    MENUS 


Coffee  throughout  the  Meal. 

Creamed   Oysters  au  Gratin. 

Cold  Tongue,  Sliced  Thin.    Blocks  of  Aspic. 

PiM  Olas. 

Fresh  (not  hot)  Biscuit. 

Sponge  Cake,  Sliced  Oranges. 

II. 

Tea  throughout  the  Meal. 

Shells  of  Chicken  Forcemeat. 

Parker  House  Rolls. 

Mayonnaise  of  Celery  and  Nuts. 

Quince    Preserves,    Cream,    Wafers, 

III. 

Cream  of  Asparagus, vBread  Sticks. 

Cold  Turkey,  Sliced  Thin, 

Cranberry  Sauce. 

Bread  and  Butter. 

White  Cake,  Canned  Pineapple, 

Tea. 


Query  445. —  Mrs.  A.  E.  K.,  Mont- 
gomery, Ala. :  "  Give  recipe  for  what 
you  consider  the  finest  sandwiches  or 
canapdes.  In  a  recipe  that  I  use  for 
canapdes,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  twelve  anchovies,  four  ounces  of 
butter,  four  eggs,  and  seasonings  to  two 
pounds  of  ham,  the  bread  softens  too 
much,  and  the  mixture  does  not  stick  to 
the  bread.     What  is  the  trouble  ?  " 

Canapees  and  Sandwiches 
The  foundation  of  a  canapee  is  one 
bit  of  bread  fried  in  fat  or  buttered 
and  browned  in  the  oven.  Canapees 
are  served  hot  or  cold,  either  as  a 
savory  or  an  appetizer,  before  the  first 


course  at  a  dinner  or  luncheon,  and 
sometimes,  but  not  frequently,  as  a 
savory  morsel  at  the  close  of  dinner. 
Sandwiches  are  made  of  two  pieces  of 
stale  bread  with  a  filling  between 
them.  In  making  either  canapees  or 
sandwiches  the  mixture  from  which  the 
article  receives  its  name  will  cling  or 
stick  to  the  bread  more  closely,  if  the 
bread  be  first  spread  with  butter  that 
has  been  creamed,  so  that  it  will  spread 
easily.  In  creaming  the  butter,  add 
spinach  pressed  through  a  cloth,  a  few 
drops  of  tarragon  vinegar,  etc.,  for  a 
change.  As  to  the  finest  sandwiches 
and  canapees,  it  is  a  matter  of  individ- 
ual taste. 

Lobster  Canapees 

Cut  out  diamonds,  hearts,  or  rounds 
of  bread  one-fourth  an  inch  thick  and 
two  inches  in  diameter.  Spread  with 
butter,  and  brown  in  the  oven.  When 
cold,  spread  with  a  layer  of  "green 
butter."  Upon  this  spread  smoothly 
a  layer  of  lobster  meat  pounded  in  a 
mortar  with  butter,  pressed  through  a 
sieve,  and  seasoned  with  a  little  pa. 
prika.  Above  this  place  a  heart  leaf 
of  lettuce.  Above  this  a  thin  slice  of 
beet-root,  shaped  with  a  cutter.  Set 
on  the  serving  dish,  and  force  a  star  of 
mayonnaise  upon  the  centre  of  the 
beet-root.  Thoroughly  chill  before 
serving.  For  the  "  green  butter  "  :  to 
a  quarter  a  pound  of  creamed  butter 
add  gradually  the  pulp  of  six  boned 
anchovies,  a  tablespoonful  of  fine- 
chopped  parsley,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  fine-chopped  capers,  and  spinach  to 
tint. 

Ham  and   Egg  Sandwiches 
Pound  together  in   a  mortar  half  a 
cup  of  lean  cooked  ham  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls   of   fat   ham,    chopped  fine, 


Queries  and  Answers 


239 


one-third  a  cup  of  butter,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  Bechamel  or 
white  sauce.  Pass  through  a  sieve. 
Add  the  sifted  yolks  of  four  cooked 
eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard 
prepared  with  tarragon  vinegar,  a 
generous  teaspoonful  of  fine-chopped 
capers,  and,  if  desired,  a  few  drops 
of  onion  juice.  Anchovies,  although 
used  in  many  meat  dishes,  should  be 
restricted  to  dishes  prepared  from  fish. 
Spread  upon  buttered  bread  prepared 
for  sandwiches,  and  press  two  pieces 
together.     Serve  without  delay. 


Query  446.  —  Mrs.  A.  H.,  Harlem, 
N.Y. :  "  Why  is  a  goose  washed  on  the 
outside  with  hot  soap  suds  ?  What  is  the 
weight  of  chickens  one,  two,  and  three 
years  old,  etc.  ?  " 

Washing  Goose  with  Soap 

Geese,  being  very  oily,  become  ex- 
ceedingly grimy  when  exposed  for  sale 
in  the  open  market ;  and  soap  suds  is 
needed  to  make  them  clean.  If 
properly  rinsed,  they  will  not  taste  of 
the  soap. 

Weight  and  Age  of  Chickens 
The  weight  of  a  chicken  at  different 
ages  depends  on  the  breed  and  other 
conditions.  A  Plymouth  Rock  or  a 
Cochin  a  year  old  would  weigh  much 
more  than  a  Leghorn.  The  exact  age 
of  a  fowl  cannot  be  easily  determined. 
A  pliable  breast-bone,  or,  rather,  carti- 


lage not  yet  changed  to  bone,  the  ab- 
sence of  long  hairs,  and  no  pro- 
nounced scales  on  the  legs  indicate  a 
young  fowl. 

Brick  Mould 
The  brick  mould  used  in  the  half- 
tone was  an  ice-cream  mould,  and  was 
used  because  it  gives  well-shaped 
slices,  easily  served.  The  mould  will 
not  be  injured,  if  the  kettle  be  kept 
supplied  with  boiling  water. 

French  Beans 
French  beans  (flageolets)  come  to 
us  dried  and  canned.  Put  the  dried 
beans  over  the  fire  in  cold  water.  Let 
heat  slowly.  Change  the  water  once, 
and  let  simmer  until  the  skins  are  ten- 
der. Four  hours  or  more  will  be  re- 
quired in  cooking.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper  or  with  maitre  d' Hotel 
butter.  Serve  with  meat  or  fish,  or  at 
luncheon  with  bread  and  butter. 

Oatmeal  Biscuits 
Make  a  bread  dough  of  two  cups  of 
hot  milk,  one  cup  of  uncooked  oatmeal, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  half  a  cup  of  sugar  or 
molasses,  a  yeast  cake  softened  in 
half  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  and 
about  two  cups,  each,  of  entire  wheat 
and  white  flour.  Let  rise  twice.  Bake 
in  small  timbale  moulds.  Serve  fresh 
with  salads  or  at  five  o'clock  tea. 


ADDRESS    communications   for  this  department  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor  of  the  Bosto7i 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Mrs.  M.  C.  Bradley,  principal  of  the 
Hamilton  Cooking  School,  has  opened 
a  class  in  cooking  at  St.  Margaret's 
College  for  pupils  who  are  not  con- 
nected with  the  college.  These  les- 
sons will  be  given  in  the  Domestic 
Science  class-rooms  of  the  college, 
which  are  thoroughly  and  practically 
equipped  for  the  work. 


Miss  Grace  Loring  Rogers,  class  of 
1900,  Boston  Cooking  School,  has 
lately  sent  out  a  very  handsomely  en- 
graved card,  announcing  that  she  is 
prepared  to  give  instruction  at  private 
residences  in  plain  and  fancy  cooking, 
to  furnish  menus,  and  superintend 
luncheons,  dinners,  and  receptions. 
Miss  Rogers's  home  is  at  138  Parker 
Street,  Newton  Centre. 


Miss  Stella  A.  Downing,  class  of 
'96,  Boston  Cooking  School,  has  been 
engaged  to  conduct  a  permanent  cook- 
ing school  in  Springfield,  Mass.  Lead- 
ing women  of  Springfield  are  to  act  as 
advising  board  of  the  school. 


Miss  Sara  Reque,  class  of  1900, 
Boston  Cooking  School.,  is  teaching 
cookery  at  Lafayette,  Ind. 


viduals,  clubs,  club  departments,  and 
schools,  a  syllabus  on  Home  Econom- 
ics, prepared  by  the  Lake  Placid  Con- 
ference. This  syllabus  comprises  an 
outline  of  ten  lectures  on  the  various 
topics  included  under  the  general  sub- 
ject of  Home  Economics.  These  are 
accompanied  by  lists  of  books  bearing 
upon  each  of  the  several  topics,  also 
subjects  for  themes  in  connection  with 
these.  It  is  thought  that  clubs  and 
schools  might  be  generally  interested 
in  this  syllabus. 


The  National  Economic  Association 
is  sending  out  to  new  members,  indi- 


The  Purina  Mills  Company,  St. 
Louis,  Mo.,  make  wise  provision  for  the 
people  in  their  employ.  The  close  of 
the  old  year  was  made  the  occasion  of 
the  second  annual  convention  and  ban- 
quet for  salesmen,  demonstrators,  and 


Rely  upon 

Piatt's  Chlorides 

as  your  household 
disinfectant. 

An  odorless,  colorless  liquid ; 
powerful,  safe,  and  cheap. 

Destroys  disease  germs  and 
noxious  gases,  thus  preventing 
sickness.  Sold  in  quart  bottles 
only,  by  druggists  and  high-class 
grocers.  Prepared  only  by  Henry 
B.  Piatt,  Piatt  Street,  New  York. 


News  and  Notes 


241 


all  other  employees  of  the  ''Purina 
Family."  On  the  night  of  the  banquet 
a  new  dining  hall  was  dedicated.  This 
room  is  well  equipped,  so  that  lunches 
can  be  served  to  all  employees.  A 
new  kitchen  is  in  process  of  construc- 
tion. No  pains  are  spared  by  this 
company  to  bring  about  the  best  re- 
sults in  every  line  of  effort.  They 
evidently  have  full  faith  in  their  own 
motto, — "  Fine  foods  build  fine  minds." 


Paper    set    at    Examination    for 

Cookery  Diploma  by  London 

Board  of  Education 

Candidates  may  attempt  ten  out  of  the 
twelve  questions  only.  If  more  are  at- 
tempted, only  the  first  ten  will  be  revised. 

1.  What  is  meant  by  "top  and  bot- 
tom heat "  in  an  oven  ?  Name  some 
dishes  which  can  be  cooked  by  ''  top 
heat,"  and  some  which  require  "bot- 
tom heat,"  and  give  the  reasons. 

2.  Give  rules  for  "soup-making." 
Why  is  it  an  economical  method  of 
cookery }  Give  recipe  for  a  good 
household  gravy  soup. 

3.  Distinguish  between  the  different 
methods  of  mixing ;  namely,  "  stir- 
ring," "  beating,"  "  cutting  or  folding," 
naming  dishes  for  which  each  method 
should  be  used. 

4.  What  is  meant  by  clarifying  fat.? 
What  changes  take  place  in  the  proc- 
ess ?     For  what  is  clarified  fat  used  ? 

5.  Is  there  any  difference  in  boiling 
a  "  leg  of  mutton  "  and  a  ham,  and,  if 
so,  what  is  the  difference  ? 

6.  Give  recipe  for  making  a  sponge 
cake,  and  say  whether  a  hot,  moderate, 
or  cool  oven  is  necessary,  and  why. 

7.  What  is  the  difference  between 
short  and  flaky  pastry  ?  What  should 
be  the  heat  of  the  oven  for  baking 
pastry,  and  why  ? 


8.  How  would  you  clean  (i)  a  sauce- 
pan in  which  milk  has  been  burned? 
(2)  knives  which  have  been  used  for 
onions  ?  (3)  an  omelette  pan  ? 

9.  What  is  the  advantage  of  sepa- 

{Contimied  o?i  page  242.) 


Architect's  Food 

Grape-nuts  turned  into  Big  Buildings 
The  duties  of  an  architect  are  so 
multitudinous,  looking  after  the  thou- 
sand and  one  details  required  in  the 
construction  of  large  buildings,  that 
many  of  them  suffer  from  the  constant 
mental  application,  and  require  the  best 
of  food  to  keep  up  their  work.  The 
chief  draughtsman  in  the  office  of  R.  T. 
Newberry,  Architect,  at  1227  New 
York  Life  Building,  Chicago,  by  name 
Henry  C.  Hengels,  says  :  — 

*'  After  nine  months'  constant  appli- 
cation in  the  preparation  of  the  neces- 
sary plans  and  details  for  the  large 
hotel  known  as  the  Post  Tavern  and 
the  Post  Building  at  Battle  Creek,  as 
well  as  several  other  large  institutions, 
I  found  myself  in  a  very  debilitated 
and  dyspeptic  condition,  and  unfit  for 
work. 

"  Instead  of  medical  treatment,  I 
used  Grape-nuts  food  in  place  of  the 
usual  breakfast  cereals.  The  first  few 
days  gave  great  encouragement,  and, 
after  a  week's  use,  quite  an  appreciable 
improvement  manifested  itself.  Since 
then,  daily  use  has  entirely  restored 
the  digestive  functions  to  their  natural 
healthy  condition,  and  I  have  gained 
about  one  pound  per  week.  I  am  now 
entirely  well  and  strong  again,  and  am 
able  to  apply  myself  to  work  with  more 
than  usual  vigor.  I  consider  Grape- 
nuts  a  most  valuable  food  for  all  brain- 
workers.  The  help  this  food  has  given 
me  is  incalculable." 


1A.1 


The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


rating  whites  from  yolks  of  eggs  in 
cookery  ?  Why  are  they  separated  in 
making  some  cakes  and  puddings,  and 
not  in  others  ? 

10.  Give  three  methods  of  making 
beef  tea.  Is  beef  tea  which  becomes 
a  jelly  when  cold  more  nutritious  for 
an  invalid  ? 

11.  What  would  be  the  approximate 
time  per  pound  which  you  would  allow 
for  boiling  fish  ?  What  would  be  the 
temperature  of  the  water  in  which  you 
would  place  fish  for  boiling?  Name 
some  of  the  fish  which  are  generally 
boiled. 

12.  How  would  you  make  gravy  for 
(i)  sirloin  of  beef.?  (2)  fillet  of  veal? 
(3)  boiled  leg  of  mutton  ?  (4)  stewed 
rabbit  ? 


Driven  to  desperation  by  the  diffi- 
culty in  securing  servants,  the  ladies 
of  Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.,  are  about  to 
start  a  co-operative  kitchen  in  an  at- 
tempt to  relieve  the  situation.  The 
plan  is  to  serve  each  family  w^ho  joins 
the  enterprise  with  dinner  only,  to 
begin  with,  as  it  is  feared  that  the 
attempt  to  serve  all  the  meals  may  be 
too  much  to  undertake  at  first.  If  the 
scheme  is  successful,  its  enlargement 
will  be  speedy. 

To  a  Bride 

One  simple  little  song  we  sing 

To  brides  but  newly  wed, — 
Just  make  the  best  of  everything, — 

EspeciaDy  of  bread. 

Detroit  Free  Press. 


Hard   Lines 

To  make  a  Man  toe  the  Mark 
To    take   both    tobacco    and    coffee 
away  from  a  man  seems  pretty  tough ; 
but  the  doctor  ordered  me  to  quit  both. 


as  my  health  was  very  poor,  and  I  had 
got  where  I  could  do  but  little  work. 

About  a  month  after  quitting,  I  com- 
menced on  tobacco  again,  because  I 
could  hardly  stand  it.  I  got  along 
without  the  coffee  for  the  reason  that 
I  had  taken  up  Postum  Food  Coffee, 
which  I  found  very  relishing  to  the 
appetite  and  wonderfully  beneficial. 

I  have  gained  twenty-five  pounds  by 
its  use,  and  to-day  I  am  a  well  man. 
I  discovered  in  this  way  that  it  was 
the  old-fashioned  coffee  that  hurt  me, 
and  not  the  tobacco.  When  I  first 
tried  Postum,  I  did  not  relish  it,  but 
found  that  it  was  not  made  right;  that  is, 
they  did  not  boil  it  long  enough.  Next 
time  it  came  on  the  table,  it  was  fine  ; 
and  I  have  been  using  it  ever  since. 

Mr.  Fletcher,  an  old  soldier  of  this 
place,  w^as  troubled  with  dyspepsia. 
I  told  him  of  my  experience  and  my 
cure,  and  told  him  to  quit  coffee  and 
use  Postum  Food  Coffee.  This  was 
some  time  ago.  I  saw  him  yesterday; 
and  he  told  me  he  had  not  felt  better 
in  twenty  years,  and  nothing  would 
induce  him  to  go  back  from  Postum 
to  the  use  of  common  coffee.  He  had 
the  same  trouble  in  getting  it  made 
right,  to  start  with. 

John  Ashford,  of  Dillon,  was  also 
troubled  with  dyspepsia.  I  told  him 
of  my  cure  by  the  use  of  Postum  Food 
Coffee,  and  warned  him  to  be  careful 
in  having  the  Postum  cooked  long 
enough,  when  he  did  try  it.  To-day 
he  is  perfectly  well,  and  his  appetite 
never  better. 

I  could  give  you  the  names  of  a 
number  of  others  who  have  been  bene- 
fited by  using  Postum  Good  Coffee. 
I  believe  you  are  a  true  friend  of 
suffering  humanity. — Thomas  Sprwg, 
Deave?'t(nvn,  Ohio. 


o   „ 

O    o 

o 


o  2 

c 


he 


C      OS 

o     ^- 

~    EJo 


The 


Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


Vol.  V. 


APRIL  and   MAY. 


No.  6. 


A   Summer  Cottage 

By   P.   G.   Gulbranson 


THIS  house  is  an  essay  in  the 
domain  of  summer  camp  Hfe. 
But,  while  its  area  is  con- 
densed, it  provides  all  those  essential 
comforts,  without  which  an  outing  does 
very  little  good.  We  need  in  vacation 
as  comfortable  beds  as  at  any  other 
time.  The  dining-table  should  be  as 
inviting  as  in  our  workaday  life. 
There  should  be  equal  facilities  for 
preparing  food.  From  the  commercial 
standpoint  of  the  landlord  who  has  a 


shanty  to  let,  there  is  an  irresistible 
attraction  in  the  advertisement  that 
offers  "  Cheap,  a  second-hand  cook- 
stove,  suitable  for  a  summer  cottage." 
But  the  stove  that  has  arrived  at  this 
stage  of  its  existence  is  seldom  fit  for 
anything  but  the  scrap-heap.  The 
lining  is  gone,  or  the  grate  is  immov- 
able. The  oven  won't  bake,  or  the  top 
undulates  so  that  the  pots  must  be 
very  carefully  set.  No  one  would 
think  of  buying  such  for  use  in  a  per- 


244 


The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


manent  home  ;  yet  there  are  people, 
sane  in  every  other  way,  who  will  live 
with  such  a  thing  all  the  summer,  and 
thus  heavily  alloy  their  pleasure  and 
profit. 

Then  of  as  much  importance  is  the 
question  of  water,  of  which  there 
should  always  be  a  plentiful  supply  at 
the  kitchen  sink.  Where  running 
water  cannot  be  had,  much  drudgery 
is  entailed,  if  the  well  be  not  connected 
with  the  house.  The  windlass  and 
bucket  and  the  old-time  well-sweep  are 
more  picturesque  than  comfortable. 
This  last,  however,  becomes  very  inter- 
esting when  made  a  support  for  morn- 
ing glories,  scarlet  runners,  and  the 
like. 

Finally,  when  we  go  to  rest,  let  us 
have  a  comfortable  room,  however 
simply  fitted,  having  as  good  a  bed  as 
that  in  our  bread-winning  routine,  one 
whose  covering,  aired  in  the  sunshine, 
has  not  been  robbed  of  its  outdoor 
fragrance  on  the  ironing-board. 

Conventional  camp  life  and  its  many 
inconveniences  may  do  well  enough 
for  a  week  or  two  under  favorable  cir- 
cumstances ;  but  it  is  during  adverse 
weather  that  this  way  of  spending  a 
hoUday  is  found  wanting,  and  we  real- 
ize that  hardship  is  not  necessarily 
beneficial. 

In  the  plainer  way  of  life  that  still 
went  on  some  years  after  the  Civil 
War,  the  dwellings  of  people  of  mod- 
erate means,  especially  in  the  suburbs, 
were  provided  with  no  more  plumbing 
than  that  at  the  kitchen  sink.  But  in 
these  days  of  bath-rooms,  set-tubs, 
etc.,  installed  almost  everywhere,  the 
transition  to  summer  accommodations 
of  a  type  ruder  than  that  of  the  time 
mentioned  is  too  violent  to  be  pro- 
ductive   of    much    benefit.     While    we 


want  less  of  an  establishment  to  take 
care  of,  and  though  the  rooms  should 
be  installed  more  simply,  yet  the 
kitchen,  the  dining-room,  and  the  bed- 
rooms should  be  so  organized  that  we 
may  get  the  greatest  possible  good 
from  our  summer  holiday. 

Starting  with  the  idea  of  building  a 
small,  compact,  homelike  cottage,  we 
will  discuss  the  one  shown  in  the  draw- 
ings before  us.  It  faces  the  south. 
From  the  piazza,  which  runs  across 
the  front,  we  enter  a  room  fourteen 
feet  square,  which  is  the  sitting  and 
dining  room.  On  the  right  is  an  al- 
cove, where  we  may  have  two  couches, 
or  use  one  wall  for  the  piano.  This 
space  is  secluded  enough  to  make  a 
lounging-place  without  encroaching  on 
the  main  room,  and  it  also  affords 
sleeping  accommodations  in  an  emer- 
gency. At  the  wall  between  the  win- 
dow and  the  door  there  is  room  for  a 
table  and  mirror,  or  for  a  writing-desk. 
Next  to  the  fireplace  is  the  china 
closet,  and  at  the  right  of  the  chimney 
breast  is  a  recess,  which  may  be  used 
for  books.  Of  course  at  meal  times 
there  would  be  some  confusion  in  this 
principal  room ;  and,  if  we  should  be- 
come convinced  of  the  desirability  of  a 
dining-room,  this  could  be  built,  at  a 
moderate  outlay  by  breaking  through 
the  west  wall  of  the  front  room  and 
the  kitchen,  without  disturbing  existing 
windows. 

Under  the  stairs,  which  are  conven- 
ient and  secluded,  is  a  roomy  clothes 
closet. 

Passing  to  the  kitchen,  we  have  a  com- 
fortable working  room,  ten  feet  by  four- 
teen, out  of  which  opens  the  pantry,  hav- 
ing shelving  on  two  sides,  and  under 
the  window  a  wide  table  shelf.  Beyond 
is  a  room  or  shed  for  fuel,  storage,  and 


A   Summer   Cottage 


■45 


the  ice-box.  The  back  porch  may  be 
screened  at  the  end  by  a  lattice,  and 
affords  a  place  where  much  of  the 
work  can  be  done  in  favorable  weather. 

Passing  upstairs,  we  have  three 
modest  bedrooms  and  a  space  that 
can  be  fitted  as  a  room,  or  used  for 
storage.  Part  of  the  floor  space,  how- 
ever, is  used  up  to  afford  head-room 
for  the  stairs.  As  the  house  faces  the 
south,  the  bedrooms  will  be  airy,  hav- 
ing the  benefit  of  the  prevailing  winds. 

There  is  no  cellar  or  foundation,  the 
supports  being  cedar  posts. 


To  reduce  the  cost  of  construction, 
the  omission  of  plastering  is  a  consid- 
erable item.  Instead  of  the  open  fire- 
place we  can  have  a  stove.  Single 
matched  floors  will  do  very  well,  though 
it  would  be  much  better  to  make  the 
first  floor  double.  Whether  we  plaster 
at  first  or  not,  we  should  provide  for 
this  possible  addition  by  setting  the 
studs  in  the  usual  way.  The  desirabil- 
ity of  plastering  should  always  be 
borne  in  mind,  however:  for  an  open 
cottage  with  partitions  of  sheathing 
has  no  privacy.    It  is  a  sounding-board, 


-    F   I   R  J- 


F    L  O   O  R   • 


^ECO^D      -      FLOOR- 


The  house  is  covered  with  shingles,  as    every   one   knows,    who   has   heard 

which  may  be  left  unpainted  :   but  the  windows   or  blinds   rattling   in   such  a 

columns    and    other    finish   should    be  house, 
painted.  The    drawing,   showing    an   interior, 


246 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


illustrates  what  may  be  done  to  deco- 
rate a  room  such  as  the  sitting-room 
of  this  cottage.  To  obtain  the  effect 
of  panelUng  is  a  simple  matter.  Mould- 
ings are  nailed  on  the  plastering;  and 
those  parts  which  then  appear  as  stiles 
and  rails,  the  wainscot  base,  the  win- 
dow and  door  finish,  and  the  screens 
at  the  alcove  are  painted  white.  The 
panels  are  colored  gray  or  green,  or  a 
cartridge  paper  may  be  applied.  We 
may  also  use  some  unobtrusive  paper 
of  a  conventional  pattern.  As  this  is 
a  sunny  and  pre-eminently  a  summer 
room,  violent  or  trying  effects,  such 
as  red  or  strong  yellow,  should  be 
avoided. 


Such  forms  of  chairs  and  table  as  are 
here  shown  are  now  reproduced  with 
great  fidelity  to  the  originals,  and  are 
obtainable  at  moderate  cost.  Especially 
is  this  true  of  the  various  Windsor  pat- 
terns, which  are  perfectly  at  home  in 
this  room. 

Editor's  Note. —  An  estimate  of  $700 
has  been  given  by  a  practical  builder  for  this 
house.  This  does  not  include  plastering  nor 
an  open  fireplace,  but  it  does  include  studding 
for  four  naiUngs  to  a  lath.  A  specification 
and  set  of  blue  prints,  consisting  of  two  floor 
plans  and  four  elevations,  first  floor  frame  and 
one  side  frame,  together  with  a  sheet  of  de- 
tails, will  be  forwarded  on  receipt  of  five  dol- 
lars ($5.00).  Send  orders  to  office  of  this 
magazine. 


Dear  little  Buttercup, 

Holding  your  chalice  up, 
Rrimming  with  sunshine  and  dewdrops  divine. 

Oft  doth  the  golden  day 

Send  down  a  wistful  ray, 
Thirsting  to  quaff  from  this  goblet  of  thine  ! 


Thou  art  the  fairies'  own  ! 

Never  a  fairer  shone, 
Brightening  the  wayside  or  starring  the  lea 

Wee  little  golden  elf, 

Well  might  Queen  Mab  herself. 
Floating  in  fairy  flight,  poise  over  thee. 


With  her  rose-petal  lips 

Kiss  as  she  softly  sips  — 
Airily  wreathing  a  rhythmical  hymn  — 

Thou  to  enfold  for  her  — 

Thus  to  uphold  for  her  — 
Chalice  so  dainty  and  gemmed  to  the  brim  ! 


Golden,  enchanted  cup. 

Brimming  with  magic  up. 
Might  we  thy  secrets  but  sip  from  their  cell, 

Learning  the  flowery  lore, 

Conning  the  lesson  o'er, 
Mortals  might  win   the  dear  buttercup's  spell  ! 


Grace  Af>pletoH,  in  A\  Y.  Home  Journal. 


The  tender  lettuce  brings  on  softer  sleep." —  W.  King,  "  Art  of  Cookery  " 


Kitchen  Gardening 

By  Eliza  Stowe  Twitchell 


"  Upborne  and  surrounded,  as  we  are,  by 
this  all-creative  Nature,  soft  and  fluid  as  a 
cloud  or  the  air,  why  should  we  be  such  hard 
pedants,  and  magnify  a  few  forms  ?  "  —  Evier- 
son. 

NO  doubt  all  are  able  to  re- 
call the  unique  courtship  of 
"  the  gentleman  in  the  next 
house,"  described  by  Dickens,  who 
sought  to  win  the  affections  of  Mrs. 
Nickleby  by  tossing  vegetables  over 
his  garden  wall,  and  landing  them  care- 
fully at  her  feet. 

His  fancy  had  been  sprouted,  well 
watered,  and  nourished  into  a  full- 
rounded  passion  by  watching  her, 
through  a  small  hole  in  the  wall  that 
divided  them,  while  taking  her  medita- 
tive walks  in  her  garden. 

To  see  onions  and  Qgg  plants"  rain- 
ing down  at  one's  feet  without  any 
visible  cause  is  enough  to  startle  the 
attention  of  almost  any  female  endowed 
with  the  usual  amount  of  curiosity  at- 


tributable to  her  sex.  "  The  Gentle- 
man's "  devotion,  though  unrequited, 
touched  at  last  the  one  chord  of  her 
susceptibility, —  her  vanity.  Meanwhile 
the  reader  enjoys  the  oddity  of  the 
situation,  in  watching  the  attempt  to 
extract  love  and  sunshine  out  of  cab- 
bages and  cucumbers. 

But,  if  there  be  very  little  romance 
in  a  kitchen  garden,  there  is  to  be  found 
much  of  good  health,  cheerfulness,  con- 
tentment, and  enjoyment.  No  home 
is  complete  without  a  spot  of  God's 
earth  that  one  may  call  his  own ;  how- 
ever small  or  unsightly,  a  little  patient 
labor,  systematically  applied,  will  soon 
transform  it  into  a  veritable  Garden  of 
Eden,  Amid  our  restless  striving'  for 
individual,  social,  and  national  ag- 
grandizement, our  craving  to  satisfy 
some  unworthy  ambition,  the  heart 
often  turns  back  upon  itself  with  an 
infinite  hungering  for  the  strong  and 
enduring,  around  which  it  can  close  the 


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The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


tendrils  of  its  affection  and  twine  about 
and  grow. 

And  what  is  more  reposeful  than  a 
spot  of  green  earth,  a  running  brook, 
a  garden  of  trees  and  shrubs  to  be 
watched  and  tended  ?  How  we  grow 
to  love  their  annual  budding  and  blos- 
soming, their  cooling  shade  !  Even 
the  odor  of  the  grass,  the  elastic  tread 
upon  the  responsive  earth,  the  line  of 
sunshine  and  shade  across  the  door- 
step, all  harmonize  so  naturally  with 
our   higher   social  affections  that  they 


check  our  tendency  to  "  magnify  a  few 
forms,"  teaching  us  the  slow  but  cease- 
less activities  of  Nature's  ways,  and 
soothing  us  with  a  sense  of  her  wide 
leisure  and  the  unity  of  all  good. 

Many  a  book-keeper,  with  pale  face 
and  white  hands,  has  found  that  the 
last  hours'  sleep  in  the  early  morning 
were  far  better  spent  digging  and  plant- 
ing in  the  moist  earth  than  drowsing  in 
the  close  chamber ;  and,  by  a  little 
energy,  he  has  been  able  to  supply  his 
family  with  fresh,  crisp  vegetables  dur- 


The  plot  on  the  right  as  one  enters  the  garden  is  given  over  to  a  strawberry  bed,  separating 
a  row  of  blackberries  and  a  row  of  red  raspberries  from  two  rows  of  currants,  red  and  white. 

On  the  left  is  a  grass-plot,  where  the  clothes-line  is  strung.  Against  the  hedge  at  one  side 
of  this  plot  is  a  flower-garden  of  roses,  pinks,  and  violets. 

Across  the  path  and  still  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  walk  are  placed  beds  of  radishes, 
onions,  and  cauliflowers.  In  the  corner  is  a  hot-bed  sufiiciently  large  to  start  the  early  vege- 
tables. Near  the  hot-bed  are  beds  of  lettuce  and  cucumbers.  Seven  rows  of  peas  are  in  this 
plot. 

In  the  remaining  quarter  of  the  garden  are  eight  rows  of  sweet  corn,  early  and  late,  together 
with  two  rows  of  lima  pole-beans  and  one  row  of  Swiss  chard.  The  remaining  four  rows  are  of 
asparagus. 


Kitchen  Gardening 


249 


ing  the  long  summer  months,  and  him- 
self with  calm  nerves  and  a  good 
appetite. 

Dumb-bell  exercises  and  physical 
culture,  excellent  though  they  be,  yet, 
compared  with  these,  according  to  our 
latest  English,  are  not  ''  in  it  "  ;  for  the 
•joy  of  seeing  things  grow  that  have 
been  planted  by  one's  own  hand  is 
next  to  that  of  the  poet  or  the  ro- 
mancer, who,  through  the  lively  creative 
force  of  his  imagination,  can  so  drama- 
tize the  common  events  of  life  that, 
again  and  yet  again,  they  sing  and 
speak  to  us  in  song  and  story. 

Before  the  house  is  painted  or  the 
blinds  put  up,  before  the  furniture  is 
all  arranged  and  the  draperies  hung, 
begin  planning  a  square  somewhere  in 
the  garden  for  an  asparagus  bed.  Once 
established,  it  will  mostly  care  for  it- 
self, yielding  an  hundred-fold.  A  few 
fresh  cuttings  from  your  own  shoots 
are  no  more  to  be  compared  to  the 
half-dried,  tasteless  sprouts  one  pur- 
chases in  the  market,  than  are  fresh 
green  peas,  with  the  canned  goods. 

Asparagus  is  a  native  of  New  Eng- 
land soil,  growing  wild  on  all  our  salt 
marsh  downs.  So  all  that  it  requires  is 
a  yearly  supply  of  rich  dressing  and 
a  covering  of  leaf  mould,  to  give  moist- 
ure to  roots  and  prevent  weeds  from 
sprouting. 

A  careful  statistician  has  recently 
made  an  estimate  —  in  dollars  and 
cents  —  of  the  value  that  can  be  ob- 
tained from  one  acre  of  land  when  put 
to  its  various  uses ;  and  the  raising  of 
asparagus  exceeds  all  vegetables,  and 
strawberries,  all  other  fruits.  For  home 
consumption  one  requires  small  quan- 
tities with  large  variety ;  but  it  is  well 
to  consider,  first  of  all,  those  fruits  and 
vegetables  that  give  the  most  satisfac- 


tion for  the  least  expenditure  of  labor ; 
and  of  these,  probably,  a  bed  of  aspar- 
agus and  a  row  of  currant  bushes  stand 
first ;  for,  once  established,  they  will 
yield  bountiful  crops,  annually,  for  a 
score  of  years  or  more.  By  leaving  the 
currants  on  the  bushes  during  fruitage, 
even  until  some  begin  to  wither  and 
fall,  fresh  dishes  of  this  fruit,  so  de- 
liciously  tempting  and  appetizing  on 
hot,  sultry  mornings,  can  be  obtained, 
as  often  as  desired,  for  four  or  six 
weeks. 

The  variety  and  abundance  of  good 
things  that  can  be  extracted  yearly  out 
of  a  few  square  feet  of  mother  earth 
is  surprising.  Every  inch  can  be  util- 
ized, every  kind  of  soil  made  produc- 
tive by  use  of  the  many  fertilizers  now 
in  the  market.  If  the  soil  is  clayey,  it 
can  be  enriched  by  a  few  loads  of 
loam.  Such  soil  is  usually  fine,  but 
heavy  and  damp,  and  cannot  be  worked 
as  early  in  spring  as  the  light  sandy 
soil. 

Never  work  the  ground  while  it  is 
so  wet  as  to  clog.  Better  wait  a  week 
for  it  to  dry.  It  must  not  be  so 
plastic  that  slight  pressure  will  harden 
it  into  cakes  about  the  seeds  or  root- 
lets. When  the  soil  is  in  right  condi- 
tion, after  sowing  the  seed,  press  the 
earth  down  firmly  upon  them.  For 
want  of  this  simple  precaution,  one- 
fourth  of  all  seeds  fail  to  germinate, 
especially  if  warm  days  soon  appear. 
The  dry  atmosphere  penetrates  the 
surface,  shrivels  the  seeds,  until  all 
vitality  is  destroyed.  The  same  pre- 
caution must  be  observed  in  transplant- 
ing. After  the  plants  are  set  and 
firmly  pressed  about  the  roots,  then 
water  freely. 

Another  general  rule  is  worth  re- 
membering, and  that  is,  to  weed  your 


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The   Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


garden  before  the  weeds  appear.  A 
little  time  spent  stirring  the  ground 
with  a  small  steel  rake  or  pointed  hoe 
will  destroy  thousands  of  underground 
rootlets.  Nowhere  does  "a  stitch  in 
time  "  so  surely  ''save  nine." 

All  hardy  vegetables  should  be  sown 
by  the  middle  or  last  of  April.  If  de- 
layed until  the  warm  days  in  May,  the 
crop  is  likely  to  be  late  and  inferior. 
True,  the  air  is  still  chilly ;  but  "  the 
marriage  of  earth  and  sky  "  has  begun, 
and  magnetic  currents  are  at  work,  lift- 
ing the  sap  and  swelling  the  buds. 

In  a  small  garden  it  is  better  to 
forego  the  raising  of  the  coarser  vege- 
tables, unless  it  be  a  few  beets,  par- 
snips, and  early  potatoes,  using  the 
land  for  choicer  varieties,  some  of 
which,  such  as  lettuce,  peas,  sweet  corn, 
and,  perhaps,  cucumbers  and  celery, 
can  be  planted  so  as  to  give  succes- 
sional  crops. 

Early  paas  and  lettuce  should  be 
sown  by  the  latter  part  of  March. 
Enough  lettuce  can  be  germinated  in 
a  small  box  in  some  sunny  kitchen 
window.  Transplant  by  the  middle 
of  April  in  rows  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
inches  apart,  with  the  plants  seven  or 
eight  inches  apart,  using  plenty  of 
well-rotted  stable-dressing,  and  water- 
ing often  and  abundantly,  thus  forcing 
a  rapid  growth,  which  will  soon  pro- 
duce large  heads,  exceedingly  tender. 
A  fresh  box  of  seeds  should  be  sown 
every  six  or  eight  weeks,  during  sum- 
mer, that  the  table  may  be  supplied 
until  November,  since  light  frosts  do 
not  affect  strong  plants.  This  plant, 
containing  so  little  nourishment,  is, 
nevertheless,  a  standard  successional, 
used  in  the  early  spring  with  radishes, 
later  with  strawberries,  then  with  to- 
matoes, and  at  last  with  celery. 


Swiss  chard,  or  sea  kale,  should 
find  a  place  in  every  garden.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  May,  and  trans- 
planted in  July,  two  feet  apart.  These 
greens,  when  touched  with  frost,  are 
the  most  tender  and  delicate  of  all  the 
cabbage  tribe.  Cover  the  crowns  dur- 
ing winter,  and,  in  the  early  spring, 
blanch  the  first  shoots  by  covering, 
the  same  as  celery  is  treated,  and  cut 
for  use  before  leafing.  The  blanched 
stems  have  a  flavor  something  between 
asparagus  and  cauliflower,  and  by 
most  persons  are  much  preferred  to 
either. 

Parsley  is  best  grown  in  a  large  box, 
near  the  house,  where  it  can  be  con- 
veniently watered  and  picked  during 
the  summer.  Carry  it  into  the  cellar 
in  October,  and,  if  kept  watered,  it 
will  remain  comparatively  fresh  during 
November  and  December,  or  the  green 
leaves  can  be  picked  and  dried  for  use. 
In  germinating,  remember  that  these 
little  seeds  can  neither  be  hurried  nor 
coaxed.  They  sometimes  lie  dormant 
in  their  moist  sunny  bed  for  six  long 
weeks  before  a  shoot  appears. 

Sweet  corn  can  be  planted  about 
the  middle  of  May  and  until  July,  for 
successional  crops. 

Cauliflower,  egg  and  tomato  plants, 
can  best  be,  obtained  at  the  nursery, 
and  set  out  about  the  middle  of  May. 
A  hundred  celery  plants  can  be  bought 
for  a  cent  apiece,  and  set  out  in  July. 
These,  with  a  row  of  choice  white  Lima 
pole  beans,  one  or  two  hills  of  cucum- 
bers, and  perhaps  a  few  sweet  herbs 
will  afford  sufficient  variety,  as  well  as 
the  nourishment  so  craved  by  the  ap- 
petite during  the  summer  months. 

Should  any  beets  be  left  in  October, 
they  will  keep  fresh,  if  placed  in  the 
cellar  in  a  box,  covered  with  sand. 


Sights  and  Tastes  in  Tripoli 

By  Mabel  Loomis  Todd 


FULLY  two  score  languages  and 
dialects  greeted  my  arrival  on 
the  pier  at  Tripoli.  The  veriest 
Babel  of  nationalities  filled  the  warm 
air  with  clamor.  For  two  minutes  of 
silence,  wherein  to  collect  my  scattered 
mental  equipment,  I  would  have  bar- 
tered even  days  on  that  strange  shore ; 
and  that  meant  a  great  deal. 

A  well-seasoned  traveller,  to  whom 
new  peoples  and  regions  and  experi- 
ences have  become  an  intellectual 
necessity,  or,  if  you  will,  a  sort  of  dissi- 
pation, like  novels  or  over-indulgence 
in  curry,  I  count  every  moment  in 
each  fresh  country  as  rich  with  endless 
wealth  of  romantic  and  picturesque 
possibility, —  not  always  realized,  per- 
haps, but  always  fascinating. 

I  was  met  by  the  astronomer  and 
some  English  friends,  but  they  brought 
no  carriage  to  convey  me  in  state  to 
headquarters.  No  camel,  even,  awaited 
my  coming,  nor  the  ever-patient,  abused, 
overladen,  and  underpaid  donkey. 
They  wisely  judged  that  Tripolitan 
methods  of  conveyance  had  best  be 
indulged  gradually  and  with  circum- 
spection. Thus  it  fell  out  that  my 
first  excursion  upon  unspoiled  African 
soil  was  upon  my  own  feet,  through  the 
narrow  streets,  followed  by  numerous 
sons  of  the  desert,  bearing  my  luggage. 
Around  corners  innumerable,  through 
winding  passages  between  high,  white 
stucco  walls,  with  tunnels  here  and 
there,  we  threaded  our  way  into  the 
heart  of  the  city. 

Suddenly  a  long  iron  rod  shot  out 
into  the  street,  exactly  at  my  feet,  over 
which    I    barely   saved    myself    from 


stumbling.  A  baker  was  merely  pull- 
ing out  of  his  oven  a  wide,  flat  shovel 
attached  to  that  rather  embarrassing 
handle,  upon  w^hich  half  a  dozen  loaves 
of  saffron-hued  bread  had  just  attained 
the  proper  tint  from  the  glowing  coals. 
Knowing  neither  Arabic  nor  Turkish, 
nor  even  Maltese,  I  could  not  effec- 
tively expostulate,  nor,  indeed,  ever 
after  wished  to,  discovering  it  as  the 
universal,  if  somewhat  startling,  method 
of  removing  bread  from  the  oven.  The 
baker's  room  is  small,  but  wide  open. 
What  more  convenient  arrangement 
possible  than  to  use  the  street  as  a  sort 
of  subsidiary  apartment  for  manipulat- 
ing the  utensils  of  his  craft  ? 

But  if  one  cannot,  in  a  few  weeks' 
residence  in  this  unadulterated  Oriental 
community,  learn  the  prevalent,  if  un- 
usual, languages  current,  a  few  words 
in  each  grow  to  be  a  part  of  one's  daily 
vocabulary. 

From  my  window,  overlooking  a 
white-domed  mosque  and  a  narrow 
street,  motley  processions  filed  past 
from  early  dawn  to  midnight.  Shortly 
after  sunrise  appeared  droves  of  goats, 
attached  to  a  cavalcade  of  bells  ring- 
ing as  insistently  as  if  for  the  sole  pur- 
pose of  awakening  the  town  of  Tripoli. 

The  little  hoofs,  too,  made  a  chorus 
of  metallic  clicks  ;  and  the  big  Arab 
who  drove  them  sang  a  few  guttural 
notes  in  unknown  intervals.  Farther 
sleep  fled  before  the  charm  of  the 
thoroughfares. 

I  soon  learned  the  cry  for  potatoes, 
for  tomatoes,  for  beans,  as  the  venders, 
all  of  different  colors  and  nationalities, 
strode    by    with    their    wares   spread 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


in  baskets  and  trays  upon  their  heads ; 
and  it  was  not  long  before  I  recognized 
the  voice  and  personality  of  a  huge, 
jet-black  Soudanese,  in  rags  and  a  fez, 
who  passed  every  morning  with  majes- 
tic stride,  crying  the  whitest  of  eggs. 

When  the  street  bakers  have  tripped 
enough  unwary  pedestrians  before  their 
shops,  the  oven-results  are  carried  out 
to  the  bread-market,  beyond  the 
Pasha's  castle,  where  all  day  long  hud- 
dled figures,  wrapped  in  white  barra- 
can, bargain  and  keep  guard  over 
piles  of  loaves  of  many  unappetizing 
shades  and  shapes. 

One  must  always  have  considerable 
cosmopolitanism  ready  for  instant  use, 
when  some  kinds  of  Oriental  food  are 
hospitably  proffered,  as  I  had  dis- 
covered in  Hawaii,  in  many  parts  of 
Japan  and  other  regions  ;  but,  however 
peculiar  and  unnamable  TripoUtan 
eatables  might  be,  coffee  was  always 
delicious,  provided,  of  course,  one  likes 
it  rich  and  strong,  with  an  Arab  flavor, 
and  made  in  Turkish  style.  After 
luncheon  and  after  dinner  one  of  the 
pleasant  customs  is  to  repair  to  the 
beach,  or  to  the  Marina,  there  to  drink 
this  delectable  —  liquid  I  was  about  to 
write,  though  substance  would  more 
nearly  express  it.  White-robed  and 
befezzed  Arab  boys  run  over  the 
sands,  take  the  order,  and  in  an  in- 
credibly short  time  return  with  the 
tiny,  fragrant  cups  and  the  delicately 
rose-perfumed  drinking  water.  The 
low  lap  of  Mediterranean  waves  on 
the  shore  close  at  hand  adds  to  the 
dreamy  spell,  until  all  merely  mundane 
cares  are  forgotten  or  exorcised  in 
languorous  ease  and  joy  of  living,  as 
the  nargileh  brings  its  lotus  touch  to 
perfect  the  starlit  mood.  On  certain 
evenings   the  Turkish  band,  softened 


by  distance  almost  into  harmony,  sends 
its  interrogative  notes  over  the  white 
buildings  and  down  the  beach,  to 
mingle  with  the  hum  of  voices  and  the 
gentle  surf. 

At  the  Marina  the  coffee  is  equally 
good,  but  the  stage  setting  is  more 
vigorous.  For  here  the  sponge  and 
coral  fishermen  come  in  from  their 
boats  at  anchor ;  a  dervish  with  un- 
covered, curly  head  stalks  by ;  the  fish- 
market  is  in  full  swing ;  old  men  weav- 
ing coarse  baskets  crouch  in  corners ; 
and  potters  mould  their  water  jars,  in 
shapes  identical  with  the  Roman  am- 
phoras  of  fifteen  hundred  years  ago, 
and  frequently  found  just  under  the 
surface  along  this  shore. 

The  fish-market  is  a  joy  —  to  look  at. 
Brilliant  scarlet,  equally  startling  blue, 
bright  green,  silver, —  the  exquisite 
bits  of  palpitating  color  lie  in  helpless 
heaps,  awaiting  purchasers.  Some  of 
these  fish  are  excellent  eating :  others 
are  more  decorative  than  palatable. 
But  Arab  ways  of  preparing  food  give 
peculiar  flavors  even  to  things  familiar. 

One  very  hot  day,  when  the  dry 
wind  blew  straight  up  from  the  desert, 
bringing  the  tropics  in  its  train,  we 
started  for  a  luncheon  given  in  our 
honor  by  a  native  family  with  Euro- 
pean affiliations.  The  streets  were 
deserted.  Even  the  inky  Soudanese 
had  disappeared,  one  here  and  there 
sleeping  in  some  strip  of  shade  under 
a  wall.  Donkeys  and  dogs  were  not 
abroad.  The  heat  was  stifling,  liter- 
ally **too  hot  to  ride,"  as  my  interpre- 
ter said  when  he  came  to  conduct  me 
to  our  host's  house.  So  creeping 
along  the  shadow  stealthily,  as  if  we 
sought  concealment  rather  than  cool- 
ness, the  white  villa  by  the  sea  was 
finally  reached. 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing 


'^S2 


Opening  the  door  brought  at  once  a 
temperature  of  comfort,  from  the  thick 
walls  of  masonry  which  effectually 
exclude  heat. 

My  hostess  met  me  arrayed  in  very 
gorgeous  plumage.  Her  hair  was 
braided  with  a  long  strip  of  blue  and 
silver  silk.  Her  full  blouse  of  pink  and 
gold  peeped  from  a  round  zouave 
jacket  without  sleeves,,  of  red  velvet 
embroidered  in  gold.  Full  Turkish 
trousers  of  yellow  silk  were  confined 
at  the  ankle,  just  above  heelless  slip- 
pers ;  while  strings  of  sequins  adorned 
her  throat  and  forehead  and  arms. 

Several  small  children  were  brought 
forward,  and  a  few  guests.  As  no  one 
spoke  anything  but  Arabic,  and  the  en- 
tertainment, other  than  examining  one 
another's  apparel,  consisted  wholly  in 
looking  through  a  stereoscope  at  half  a 
dozen  views,  the  announcement  of  lun- 
cheon was  the  reverse  of  unwelcome. 

We  sat  at  a  table,  before  each  guest 
a  pile  of  eight  or  ten  plates.  Chickens 
cooked  in  odd  ways,  several  heretofore 
unexperienced  vegetables,  a  great  va- 


riety of  sour  combinations,  tasting  like 
pickles,  each  came  by  itself,  and  the 
top  plate  was  removed  after  its  disap- 
pearance. The  later  courses  were 
ever-increasing  returns  to  comfort, 
from  the  diminishing  collection  of 
china  before  one.  Several  kinds  of 
Arab  wine  were  served,  and  a  fiery 
liqueur  of  whose  properties  I  am  still 
uncertain.  The  inevitable  cus-cus  ap- 
peared, always  welcome,  and  at  the 
end  delicious  Turkish  coffee.  But  it 
was  four  hours  before  that  repast  came 
to  an  end,  so  that  I  could  properly  leave. 
However,  that  was  an  advantage,  too ; 
for,  when  I  mounted  my  homeward 
camel,  the  sun  was  sending  long,  level 
beams  over  the  glistening  sand  and 
the  gently  murmuring  sea,  and  the 
heat  was  less  insistent. 

My  hostess  waved  good-by  from  the 
balcony,  her  sister  bowed  demurely, 
while  the  other  guests  hovered  in  the 
background ;  and  I  and  my  camel 
ambled  up  the  street  to  the  British 
consulate,  and  a  dinner  to  warm  one's 
heart  even  in  retrospect. 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing' 

By  M.  C.  Limerick  and  L.  R.  Balderston 
Article  No.  4 


BATHING  {continued),  —  A 
bath  should  never  be  given 
within  two  hours  after  a  full 
meal.  To  put  a  feeble  patient  in  a 
bath,  wrap  him  in  a  sheet  and  lower 
gently  into  the  water.  The  nurse 
should  have  some  one  to  help  her 
in  lifting  patient  into  the  tub.  Have 
a  warm,  dry  sheet  ready  to  wrap  him 
in  when  he  leaves  the  bath.     Over  this 


fold  a  blanket ;  and,  well  protected, 
leave  him  wrapped  in  it  for  a  few  min- 
utes. In  this  way  he  will  be  made  dry 
without  extra  fatigue.  A  little  rubbing 
with  a  soft  towel  will  complete  the 
process.  If  a  bath  is  to  be  repeated 
very  soon,  do  not  put  on  clothes,  but 
leave  the  patient  wrapped  in  a  dry 
sheet,  ready  for  the  next  bath. 

After  a  soothing   bath,   the  patient 

Copyright. 


254 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


should  be  kept  quiet.  After  a  stimulat- 
ing bath,  energetic  rubbing  and  exer- 
cise are  in  order. 

Cold  Baths. —  Cold  baths  are  used 
to  produce  reaction  or  nervous  shock, 
or  to  lower  the  temperature.  They  are 
also  used  as  a  tonic.  A  cold  bath 
should  not  be  given  when  the  patient 
feels  chilly,  when  there  is  any  visceral 
inflammation  or  tendency  to  congestion 
of  the  internal  organs,  during  free 
perspiration  or  menstruation.  In  bath  . 
the  pulse  is  quickened,  but  the  surface 
temperature  is  lowered,  and  the  blood 
accumulates  in  the  internal  organs,  all 
which  produce  reaction,  soon  followed 
by  vigorous  circulation  and  feeling  of 
warmth.  The  cold  bath  extracts  the 
heat  from  the  body,  thus  forming  a 
speedy  and  effective  way  of  bringing 
down  fever.  Should  a  nervous  shock 
not  be  desired,  the  bath  may  be  started 
with  tepid  water,  and  cold  water  grad- 
ually added. 

The  temperature  for  cold  baths  is 
33  degrees  to  65  degrees  Fahrenheit ; 
for  cool  baths,  65  degrees  to  75  degrees 
Fahrenheit. 

Cold  Bath  as  a  Tonic. —  In  giv- 
ing a  cold  bath  as  a  tonic,  the  patient 
should  have  a  certr.in  amount  of  vigor 
to  endure  it.  It  is  best  given  in  the 
morning,  and  should  always  be  followed 
by  vigorous  rubbing.  First  wet  the 
head  at  the  forehead  and  base  of  brain, 
and  then  lower  the  patient  into  the 
water.  The  shock  of  sudden  immer- 
sion in  cold  water  may  be  avoided  by 
beginning  with  warm  water,  and  reduc- 
ing the  temperature,  until  the  desired 
reaction  is  reached,  usually  in  about 
five  minutes.  The  colder  the  water, 
the  sooner  the  reaction  takes  place. 
As  the  temperature  is  reduced,  there 
will  be  a  sense  of  chilliness  ;  but  this 


should  not  last.  Should  shivering  come 
on  during  the  bath,  the  patient  should 
be  taken  out  of  the  bath,  put  into  bed, 
wrapped  warmly,  and  heat  applied. 
If  chilliness  continues,  give  stimulants. 
A  cold  sponge  bath  can  be  given  with 
much  less  danger  of  chill,  if  one  has 
the  feet  in  warm  water.  A  cold  sponge 
bath  should  not  last  longer  than  five 
minutes,  and  the  head  should  be  pre- 
viously wet  as  for  a  cold  plunge.  Rub- 
bing should  follow,  as  this  bath  is  given 
as  a  tonic,  not  to  reduce  temperature. 
In  giving  either  bath,  always  have  hot 
w^ater  bags  to  apply  to  the  feet,  under 
the  knees,  and  on  the  abdomen,  in  case 
the  chilliness  continues.  If  rubbing  is 
needed  to  start  the  circulation,  it  should 
be  given  with  pressure  toward  the 
heart. 

Cold  Foot-baths. —  A  cold  foot- 
bath is  given  for  cold  feet.  Have  the 
temperature  of  the  water  65  degrees. 
Wet  the  patient's  head,  as  in  other 
baths.  This  bath  may  last  five  or  ten 
minutes.  After  the  feet  are  taken 
out,  rub  from  knees  downward  with 
a  rough  towel. 

Baths  to  reduce  Temperature. — 
The  patient  is  lowered  into  a  tub  half- 
full  of  water  at  68  degrees.  Upon 
first  entering  a  cold  bath,  the  patient 
will  feel  chilly.  Reaction  will  then 
follow,  with  a  feeling  of  warmth ;  but, 
if  the  bath  be  continued  too  long,  the 
chilliness  will  return,  with  \veakness 
and  depression.  The  nurse  should 
try  to  avoid  this  ;  but,  if  it  occurs,  the 
patient  should  be  put  in  bed  immedi- 
ately, and  cared  for  by  applying  hot- 
water  bags,  as  described  above. 

Instead  of  the  bath  to  reduce  tem- 
perature, the  same  effect  may  be 
easily  produced  by  applying  towels 
wrung  out  of  ice-water,   one  after  the 


Suggestions  for  Home  Nursing 


^SS 


other,  from  neck  downward.  When 
the  body  has  been  covered,  begin  at 
the  head,  and  renew  each  towel  in 
succession,  continuing  as  long  as 
necessary.  The  towels  should  be  ap- 
plied on  the  front  of  the  patient  first. 
Afterward  apply  on  the  back  in  like 
manner.  The  bed  should  be  thor- 
oughly protected,  with  several  blankets, 
or  a  rubber  sheet.  A  blanket  should 
be  placed  over  the  patient,  to  protect 
the  upper  covering  of  the  bed. 

Baths  for  Nervous  Shocks. —  To 
produce  a  nervous  shock,  as  in  some 
cases  of  the  brain  or  nerves,  cold 
water  is  thrown  upon  the  body.  A 
shower  bath  or  douche  may  be  used. 
This  bath  is  often  resorted  to  in  cases 
of  hysteria.  Place  the  patient  on  the 
side  of  the  bed,  or,  if  well  enough,  on 
side  of  bath-tub.  If  given  on  the  bed, 
always  protect  this  with  rubber  sheet. 
Use  a  fountain  syringe,  allowing  the 
water  to  flow  first  on  one  side  of  the 
spine,  then  on  the  other.  The  bag 
should  be  hung  high,  thus  giving  force 
to  the  water.  For  a  weak  patient  the 
same  effect  may  be  brought  about  by 
placing  cloths  wrung  out  of  ice-water, 
or  bags  filled  with  ice,  on  either  side 
of  the  spine. 

Hot  Baths. —  A  general  warm  or 
hot  bath  is  used  to  induce  perspira- 
tion, soothe  pain,  or  relax  spasm. 
Sometimes,  from  lack  of  exercise,  the 
kidneys  do  not  work  properly,  and  the 
waste    products    are    not    eliminated. 


These  baths  dilate  the  blood-vessels 
near  the  surface  of  the  body,  causing 
the  patient  to  perspire  freely ;  and  so 
a  large  amount  of  waste  material  is 
carried  off.  A  very  hot  bath  excites 
the  nerves,  while  a  tepid  bath  calms 
and  soothes  them.  If  the  water  be 
too  hot  or  bath  too  long,  languor  or 
faintness  may  result.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  should  be  tested  with 
a  thermometer,  and  kept  the  same 
throughout.  A  hot  bath  should  not 
be  given  during  the  menstrual  period 
or  in  the  last  stages  of  pregnancy. 

If  a  tub  is  ordered,  it  should  be 
partly  filled  with  warm  water,  the 
patient  carefully  put  in,  and  then  the 
temperature  gradually  increased  to 
the  prescribed  degree.  The  invalid 
should  never  be  left  alone  in  the 
water,  and  should  always  be  taken 
out,  if  the  least  sign  of  faintness  is 
noticed.  At  the  end  of  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  the  patient  is  taken  out,  and 
put  into  bed,  on  a  blanket,  which  is 
wrapped  snugly  around  him.  Apply 
cool,  wet  cloths  to  the  head,  and  give 
a  drink  of  cool  water  frequently. 
This  will  increase  the  perspiration, 
and  impurities  will  be  given  off  in 
larger  quantities.  After  the  patient 
has  been  in  the  blanket  the  prescribed 
time,  sponge  with  warm  water,  or 
alcohol  and  warm  water,  and  wipe 
dry.  The  gown  is  put  on,  and  the 
patient  moved  to  the  other  side  of  the 
bed. 


For  the  Children 


By  Inez  Redding 


Little  Jack  Horner  sat  in  a  corner, 
Eating  a  piece  of  Christmas  pie: 

He  put  in  his  thumb  and  pulled  out  a  plum, 
And  said,  "  What  a  big  boy  am  I !  " 

A  CANDY  PIE  may  be  made  a 
pretty  ornament  for  the   table 
at    a     children's     party,     and 
afford  the  little  ones  much  pleasure. 

Somewhat  will  depend  upon  the 
age  of  the  children  what  the  filling  of 
the  pie  should  be.  For  very  small 
tots,  nothing  will  give  greater  pleasure 
than  candy  animals.  For  children  of 
larger  growth,  small,  dainty  boxes  of 
bonbons  may  be  used. 

Whatever  is  chosen,  it  should  be 
put  in  a  round,  deep  dish,  the  sides  of 
which  may  be  covered  with  crepe 
paper  to  harmonize  with  the  table  dec- 
orations. On  the  top,  over  a  piece  of 
heavy  card-board,  arrange  a  flat  bou- 
quet, so  that  none  of  the  stems  will 
show.  Attach  a  ribbon  of  the  same 
color  as  the  crepe  paper  to  each  article 
in  the  pie  (there  should  of  course  be 
the  same  number  as  guests),  and  let  the 
ribbon  streamers  reach  to  the  plate  of 
each  little  guest.  This  will  form  in 
itself  a  very  pretty  table  decoration, 
and  few  of  the  young  people  will  re- 
gard  the    floral    centre-piece    thus    ar- 


ranged with  any  curiosity.  Just  before 
the  children  leave  the  table,  remove 
the  pasteboard  and  flowers,  and  let 
earch  one  draw  out  the  article  attached 
to  her  own  piece  of  ribbon. 

A  similar  pie  may  be  served  in  the 
drawing-room,  at  any  holiday  enter- 
tainment. As  many  tiny  souvenirs  as 
there  are  guests  may  be  placed  in  the 
pie  with  the  bright  ribbons  attached. 
In  this  case  the  effect  is  very  pretty,  if 
both  sides  and  top  of  the  dish  be  cov- 
ered with  white  paper,  and  yellow  baby 
ribbon  be  used.  The  ends  of  the  rib- 
bon extending  outside  the  dish  should 
be  about  half  a  yard  long,  and  to  each 
a  tiny  bell  should  be  attached. 

The  pie  may  be  brought  into  the 
room  at  some  appropriate  time,  or  be 
placed  on  a  small  table  before  the 
arrival  of  the  guests.  When  ready  to 
"  serve,"  cut  a  large  slit  in  the  paper 
through  which  the  gifts  may  be  drawn. 
Painted  eggs,  downy  chickens,  or 
pretty  cards  would  be  suitable  for  an 
Easter  pie.  When  such  a  pie  is  pre- 
pared for  other  occasions,  and  special 
gifts  are  selected  for  the  different 
guests,  each  ribbon  may  have  the 
name  of  some  person  traced  on  it 
with  sepia  in  quaint  lettering. 


"  Dissatisfaction  with  our  life's  en- 
deavor springs  in  some  degree  from 
dulness.  We  require  higher  tasks  be- 
cause we  do  not  recognize  the  height  of 
those  we  have.  ...  To  be  honest,  to  be 
kind,  to  earn  a  little,  and  to  spend  a  lit- 
tle less,  to  make,  upon  the  whole,  a  fam- 
ily  happier   for    his    presence,    to    re- 


nounce, when  that  shall  be  necessary, 
and  not  be  imbittered,  to  keep  a  few 
friends,  but  those  without  capit- 
ulation,—  above  all,  on  the  same 
grim  condition,  to  keep  friends  with 
himself, —  here  is  a  task  for  all  that 
a  man  has  of  fortitude  and  delicacy. 
Stevenson. 


Recipes  from  Public  Demonstrations 
at  the  Boston  Cooking  School 


Appledore  Soup 
Boil  three  medium-sized  potatoes 
until  tender,  then  pass  through  a  sieve. 
Fry  three  slices  of  onion  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour.  Let  cool.  Then 
pour  on  gradually  one  quart  of  scalded 
milk.  Let  boil  five  minutes,  then  add 
the  potatoes,  one  teaspoonful  and  a 
half  of  salt,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  celery-salt  and  paprika,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  catsup,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Garni  con  Chili 

Disjoint  two  chickens,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  saute  in  hot 
butter.  Remove  the  seeds  and  veins 
from  eight  red  peppers,  let  stand  cov- 
ered with  boiling  water  until  soft,  then 
press  through  a  sieve.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  one  onion,  two  cloves 
of  garlic  chopped  fine,  the  chicken 
and  boiling  water  to  cover.  Cook 
until  the  chicken  is  tender.  Remove 
the  chicken  to  a  serving-dish.  Add 
flour  and  water,  or  butter  and  flour 
creamed  together,  to  thicken  the  sauce. 
Let  simmer  ten  minutes,  and  pour  over 
the  chicken. 

Creole  Sauce 
Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
onion,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
green  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  red  pepper,  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  chopped  mushrooms  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  five 
minutes.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  and,  when  well  blended,  one  cup 


of  tomatoes,  one-fourth  a  cup  of  sherry 
wine;  a  few  slices  of  truffle,  and  salt  to 
taste.     Let  simmer  fifteen  minutes. 

Arros  con  Tomates 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
Add  one  cup  of  rice,  and  stir  until  well 
browned.  Cook  in  highly  seasoned 
brown  stock,  in  a  double  boiler,  until 
tender.  About  three  cups  of  stock 
will  be  required.  Turn  into  a  serving- 
dish,  and  cover  with  a  Creole  sauce. 
Garnish  with  pimento  or  with  strips  of 
cooked  green  pepper. 

Mock  Crabs  (Prize  Recipe) 
Cook  a  teaspoonful  of  fine-chopped 
onion  in  two  tablespoonfuls  and  one- 
half  of  butter,  in  the  blazer  of  a 
chafing-dish,  five  minutes.  Add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and,  when 
blended  with  the  butter,  stir  in  three- 
fourths  a  cup  of  milk.  When  the  mixt- 
ure boils,  add  one  cup  of  kornlet,  one 
and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  Worces- 
tershire sauce,  one-third  a  teaspoonful 
of  mustard,  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
paprika,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne. 
When  again  boiling,  set  over  hot  water, 
and  stir  in  one  beaten  egg.  Serve  on 
thin  crackers. 

Brown  Bread  Cream  Toast  with 
Cheese 
Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in 
the  blazer.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  cooked  a  little, 
then  add  one  cup  of  milk.  When  the 
mixture  boils,  add  three-fourths  a  cup 
of    grated    Gruyere   cheese    and   one 


258 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


beaten  egg.  Stir  over  hot  water  until 
well  mixed.  Then  add  a  cup  of  Amer- 
ican factory  cheese  cut  in  very  small 
cubes.  Let  stand  a  few  seconds,  then 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  pour 
over  pieces  of  toasted  brown  bread. 

Lucanian  Eggs 

Cut  five  hard-boiled  eggs  in  eighths 
lengthwise.  Add  one  cup  of  cooked 
macaroni,  half  a  cup  of  grated  cheese, 
and  one  cup  and  three-fourths  of  white 
sauce  seasoned  v/ith  salt,  paprika,  on- 
ion juice,  and  anchovy  essence.  Turn 
into  a  buttered  baking-dish,  cover  with 
buttered  crumbs,  and  set  into  the  oven 
long  enough  to  brown  the  crumbs. 

Buckwheat  Cakes 
Soak  one-third  a  cup  of  fine  bread 
crumbs  in  two  cups  of  scalded  milk 
thirty  minutes.  Add  half  a  teaspoon- 
iul  of  salt,  one-fourth  a  cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast  softened  in  half  a  cup 
of  lukewarm  water,  and  one  cup  and 
three-fourths  of  buckwheat  flour.  Let 
rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  molasses  and  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved 
in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water. 
Fry  on  a  hot,  oiled  griddle,  and  serve 
with  maple  sugar. 

Chocolate 
Melt  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  un- 
sweetened chocolate.  Add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  cup  of  boil- 
ing water,  with  a  few  grains  of  salt. 
Let  boil  two  minutes,  then  add  to  one 
cup  of  evaporated  cream  dissolved  in 
two  cups  of  boiling  water.  Mill  or 
beat    thoroughly    with    an    egg-beater. 


and    serve    with    or    without    whipped 
cream. 

Coffee  Cream  Tarts 
Cut  plain  or  puff  pastry  in  circular 
pieces  three-eighths  an  inch  thick. 
With  a  pastry  bag  and  tube  pipe  upon 
these  a  border  of  cream-cake  mixture, 
having  it  come  close  to  the  edge  of  the 
paste.  When  baked  and  cold,  fill  with 
coffee  cream,  and  cover  the  edge  with 
chocolate  frosting. 

Coffee  Cream 
Scald  one  cup  of  milk  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  coffee.  Let  infuse 
fifteen  minutes,  strain,  and  return  to  the 
fire ;  then  stir  in  a  few  grains  of  salt 
and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour  mixed 
with  half  a  cup  of  sugar.  Let  cook  in 
a  double  boiler  eighteen  minutes.  Add 
an  egg,  slightly  beaten,  first  diluting  it 
with  a  little  of  the  hot  mixture.  When 
cool,  add  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  and  fill  the  cases ;  then  cover 
with  whipped  cream  sweetened  and 
flavored. 

Pekoe  Cream 
Scald  one  pint  of  milk  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  Pekoe  tea.  Let 
stand  five  minutes,  strain,  add  one 
cup  and  a  half  of  sugar  mixed  with 
four  slightly  beaten  eggs.  Cook,  stir- 
ring constantly,  over  hot  water  until 
the  mixture  thickens.  Strain.  Add  a 
few  grains  of  salt  and  the  grated  rind 
of  an  orange.  Let  cool ;  add  a  pint 
of  double  cream,  and  freeze.  Serve 
moulded  in  a  brick  or  fanciful-shaped 
mould.  Garnish  with  candied  orange 
peel. 


Selected  Verse 


The  Barley  Cakes 

Drudgery,  drudgery  !  all  the  day  ! 
The  grassy  mountains,  the  breeze-swept  lakes. 
The  fair  sweet  flowers  among  the  brakes, 
The  birds  that  flutter  among  the  trees. 
The  flocks  on  the  hillside, —  none  of  these 
Gladden  my  life.     I  must  throw  away 
My  life's  best  days  on  the  homely  care 
That  falls  to  the  lot  of  the  housewife,  bare 
As  the  rocks  of  Hemipn, —  the  life  of  one 
Who  from  dawn  of  day  to  the  setting  sun 
Does  nothing  grander  than  sweep,  or  bake 
In  the  ashes  the  little  barley  cake. 

Drudgery,  drudgery.     Ah  I  to-day 

My  lad  goes  into  the  desert  to  keep 

(My  shepherd  boy  brave)  his  father's  sheep. 

He  must  not  know  that  my  heart  is  faint 

Or  catch  the  gloom  of  my  sad  complaint. 

And  shame  to  me  that  I've  dared  to  lay 

Across  my  threshold  this  bit  of  rue, 

Forgetful  that  palm-trees  about  me  grew, 

Fruitful  and  fair  as  the  sixty-and-ten 

That  shaded  the  waters  of  Elim. 

When  I  think  of  my  boy,  'tis  with  joy  I  make 

For  his  lunch  in  the  desert  the  barley  cake. 

The  mother  toiled  on  in  her  home  that  day; 
But  the  Master  came  to  the  desert  place, 
And  the  multitude  followed  him,  quick  to  trace 
The  steps  of  the  Miracle-worker  who 
Dropped  blessings  into  their  lives,  like  dew 
That  brightened  the  flowers  along  the  way. 
A  multitude  hungry;  and  whence  the  bread 
With  which  these  thousands  must  now  be  fed .'' 
O  mother,  bound  close  to  a  lowly  task. 
What  grander  work  could  your  fond  heart  ask  ? 
The  Master  receives  from  your  boy,  and  breaks, 
With  his  blessings,  your  five  little  barley  cakes. 
William  N.  Burr. 


Turn,  turn  my  wheel  I     All  life  is  brief ; 
What  now  is  bud  will  soon  be  leaf. 

What  now  is  leaf  will  soon  decay ; 
The  wind  blows  east,  the  wind  blows  west ; 
The  blue  eggs  in  the  robin's  nest 
Will  soon  have  wings  and  beak  and  breast. 
And  flutter  and  fly  away. 

Longfellow. 


True  Easter 

The  world  for  the  dead  Christ  weepeth. 

And  holdeth  her  Lenten  fast. 
Doth  she  think  that  Christ  still  sleepeth. 

And  night  is  not  overpast  ? 

Nay,  but  the  word  is  spoken  ! 

Nay,  but  the  tomb  is  broken, 
And   "  Christ  is  risen  !     Yea,  Christ  is  risen* 
indeed ! " 

Long  past  is  the  Lenten  moaning, 

Long  past  is  the  bitter  night. 
Long  past  is  the  Easter  dawning : 
Now  it  is  noonday  light. 
Let  every  song  be  gladness. 
Why  should  the  Bride  have  sadness  ? 
Her  "  Lord  is  risen  !     Her  Lord  is  risen,  in- 
deed !  " 

He  suffered  once  and  forever 
The  cross,  the  smiting  and  pain. 

0}ice  did  the  sepulchre  sever ; 
But  never,  never  again 
Earth  nor  hell  can  bereave  us, 
Jesus  will  never  leave  us; 
For  "  He   hath   risen  !      Yea,  he   hath  risen, 

indeed ! " 

Always  so  ready  to  ease  us, 
Always  so  ready  to  stay, 
Pray,  pray  that  the  living  Jesus 
May  walk  with  us  day  by  day. 
Always  the  Easter  glory. 
Always  the  same  glad  story, — 
"The    Christ  is  risen!     The  Christ  is    risen, 
indeed! 

Lillie  E.  Parr. 


So  grant  it,  Lord,  this  Easter  Day. 
Cast  fear  and  doubt  and  scorn  away, 
Bring  human  hearts  beneath  thy  sway. 
As  when  thou  burst  the  tomb ! 

Alice  M.  Kyle. 


Greatly  begin  !  Though  thou  hast  time 

But  for  a  line,  be  that  sublime ; 
Not  failure,  but  low  aim  is  crime. 

James  Rttssell  Lozoell. 


THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL  CORPORATION 

EST.KBLISHZD    1879.  InCOIPOIATED    1 88  2. 

ScHaoL:   372  BOYLSTON  STREET. 


^cfzi'b  of  PEnacrrs,  1901. 

Mrs.  WM.  B.  SEWALL, Pres£d^fii. 

Mrs.  STEPHEN   D.  BENNETT,       Vi^e-P resident. 


^txtctxrts* 
Mrs.  ELLIOTT  RUSSELL. 

Mrs.  THOMAS   MACK. 
Mrs.  GEORGE   E.    NILES. 
Mrs.  WALTER  CHANNING. 
Mrs.  WIN5L0W  WARREN. 
Mrs.  LANGDON  SHANNON  DAVIS. 
Mrs.  MOORFIELD  STOREY. 
Miss  ELLEN  M.  CHANDLER. 
Miss  MINNA  TR_A.IN. 

Mrs.  LINDZEE   TILDEN. 
Miss  ELIZABETH   ROGERS. 
Miss  EMILY    GREENE,   Treasurer. 
Mrs.  EVERETT  MORSS,  Secretary'. 
Principal,  Miss  FANNIE  MORRILL  FARMER. 
/  Miss  MARIA  W.  HOWARD. 
Assistants,    (  ^^^  MARIETTA  McPHERSON. 

THE   BOSTON   COOKING- 
SCHOOL    .\L\GAZINE 

CF 

Calinarv  Science  and  Doinesnc  Economics. 

?rELI£HED     EIWOXTKLY. 

Official  Journal  of  the  Boston   Cook- 
iKG-ScHOOL  Corporation. 

PniJifafinn  Office  : 

37a  BoYLSTON  STarrx,  Boston,   Mass. 

JANET  McKENZIE  HILL Editor. 

BENJ.  M.  HILL Gexeral  Manager. 

R.  B.  HILL EusLVESs  Ma*s-ager. 

SuBscKiPTiox,  50c.  pz?.  Year.     Single  Copies,  ioc. 
Advektising    Rates    rrf-XiSHED   ox  Application. 

TO    SUBSCRIBERS 

The  Boston  Cooking-Sckool  Mag-azine  is  sent  mhvI 
ordered  discor,rliiued,  aad  arrearage;  are  r.aid. 

The  date  stsimped  on  the  wrapper  is  the  date  on  which 
jonr  snbscrqjtkm  expires :  it  is,  also,  an  acknowledgxaeiit 
tfiat  a  sBbamptiOB  or  a  renewal  of  the  same  bas  been 

on  receipt  of  dbe  oolonsd  Uank  cndosed 

rtioe  to  lenew  sdbaamtian  or* 
address,  please  {^  the  «&/ address  as  «^  as  d 

In  lefening  to  an  original  enfanjr,  we  mnst  1 
name  as  it  was  fonneriy  giwen,  bugedier  wilb  d> 
office,  Coantj,  State,  Post-oiioe  Box,  or  Street  NvBaber. 

PosTAts.— To  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  Canada, 
and  Meadoo  the  postase  is  piqiaid  bf  the  pntiBArrs,  ejc- 
cefi  ui  Bmtitm,  In  naldns  icnewab.  snfascriben  in  the 
postal  Astiidt  of  Boston  are  leqaested  to  add  12  oeate  to 
the  sabscriptian  price  to  cover  ddjvay  iliaiges. 

Entered  at  Boston  Post-office  as  Bccond-daM  matter. 


SINGLENESS  of  purpose  is  t±ie 
.eading  motive  of  the  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazhu.  The 
efforts  of  the  management  to  produce 
a  first-class  periodical,  devoted  exclu- 
sivel)"  to  the  interests  of  culinan*  sci- 
ence and  domestic  economics,  are  not 
to  be  diverted.  We  deem  it  no  part 
of  our  mission  to  be  an  authority  in 
matters  of  style,  fashion,  or  fine  arts. 
\^"e  do  aim,  however,  to  keep  in 
the  van  of  progress  as  regards  that 
homely  domestic  art  upon  which,  we 
firmly  maintain,  the  higher  life  of  the 
household  depends. 

In  keeping  with  this  object  the  ar- 
ticle on  ''  A  Summer  Cottage,"  by  Mr. 
Gulbranson,  -Kitchen  Gardening,"  by 
Mrs.  Twitchell,  and  "  Sights  and  Tastes 
in  Tripoli,"  by  Mrs.  Mabel  Loomis 
Todd,  are  presented. 

The  vacation  season  is  approaching. 
Our  summer  cottage  will  be  found 
suitable  for  seaside  or  inland  resort, 
and  must  be  regarded  as  a  model  of 
convenience,  comfort,  and  economy. 
The  plans  were  drawn  by  a  skilled 
designer.  They  can  be  carried  out 
easily  by  any  good  carpenter.  With 
the  addition  of  a  cellar,  the  house 
would  make  a  cosey  residence,  for  a 
small  family  m  the  countr\-,  the  year 
round.  As  stated  in  a  foot-note  else- 
where, an  estimate  of  $700  has  been 
given  by  a  practical  builder  for  this 
house.  This  does  not  include  plaster- 
ing nor  an  open  fireplace.  A  specifica- 
tion and  a  set  of  blue  prints,  con- 
sisting of  two  floor  plans  and  four 
elevations,  first-floor  frame,  and  one 
side  frame,  together  with  a  sheet  of  de- 
tails, will  be  furnished  at  moderate  cost 
on  application  to  the  office  of  this 
masrazine. 


Editorials 


261 


CHARLES  AUSTIN  BATES 
has  given  many  practical  hints 
on  advertising.  The  follow- 
ing is  recent :  "  I  feel  that  a  literary 
magazine  which  is  not  interesting 
enough  to  secure  a  large  circulation 
is  not  sufficiently  interesting  to  insure 
careful  reading  by  the  small  number  of 
people  who  receive  it.  If  the  reading 
matter  of  a  publication  is  slighted,  ad- 
vertising in  that  paper  is  of  compara- 
tively little  value.  People  don't  buy  a 
paper  in  order  to  read  the  ads." 

That  is,  the  value  of  a  publication, 
as  an  advertising  medium,  depends 
upon  extent  of  circulation,  and  this,  in 
turn,  upon  the  intrinsic  merit  of  its 
literary  contents.  This  may  not  be 
gainsaid.  And  yet  very  many  people 
read  a  literary  publication  who  are  in 
no  wise  interested  in  the  advertise- 
ments it  contains.  A  story,  an  arti- 
cle, some  single  feature,  may  be  the 
attraction.  Many  readers,  it  is  said, 
acquire  the  habit  of  clipping  desired 
items  from  current  periodicals,  and 
relegating  all  else  to  the  waste-basket. 
Certainly,  the  mass  of  advertisements 
in  many  periodicals  of  large  circula- 
tion is  like  a  vast  forest,  where  danger 
is  of  being  lost. 

People,  we  feel,  do  not  invest  in  a 
culinary  publication,  for  instance,  un- 
less they  are  interested  in  its  con- 
tents. Nor  is  that  interest  confined 
merely  to  the  pleasure  of  intellectual 
entertainment  or  amusement.  In  the 
culinary  journal,  in  larger  measure 
than  in  any  other  class  of  periodical, 
the  advertising  pages  are  in  keeping 
with  the  reading  matter.  The  entire 
contents  are  harmonious,  and  directed 
to  the  advancement  of  a  single  object : 
namely,  improved  ways  in  the  house- 
hold. 


The  earnest,  progressive  house- 
keepers, then,  who  are  seeking  prac- 
tical information  or  helpful  suggestion 
along  these  lines,  are  likely  not  only 
to  scan,  but  to  weigh  and  consider  the 
matter  that  the  culinary  publication 
presents.  It  still  holds :  "  Some 
books  are  to  be  read  only  in  parts ; 
others  to  be  read,  but  not  curiously ; 
and  some  few  to  be  read  wholly,  and 
with  diligence  and  attention." 


"  Knowledge  comes,  but  wisdom  lingers." 

FIFTY  years  ago,  when  schools 
were  few  and  far  between,  hun- 
ger and  thirst  after  knowledge 
seems  to  have  actuated  the  young 
people  who  frequented  them.  Many 
of  the  pupils  were  inspired  by  lofty 
aims  and  a  spirit  of  noble  attainment ; 
and,  like  the  modern  athlete,  they  were 
willing  to  submit  to  a  most  exacting 
course  of  training.  To-day  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  determine  the  motive  that  in- 
spires the  masses  of  boys  and  girls  who 
throng  our  schools  and  colleges,  unless 
it  be  the  pursuit  of  pleasure  and 
amusement.  And  to  this  end  various 
courses  of  study  and  numerous  elec- 
tives  render  the  way  easy. 

The  contrast  is  striking,  indeed. 
When  schools  were  rare  and  books 
scarce,  good  books  and  the  best 
schools  were  sought  for  and  appreci- 
ated. Of  the  endless  mass  of  printed 
matter  in  circulation  to-day,  nothing  is 
read  "  curiously "  or  to  be  remem- 
bered. The  earth  has  become  well 
known  and  common.  "  The  nine- 
teenth century  has  revolutionized  the 
world."  Ours  is  the  age  of  the  crafts 
man  and  invented  things, —  the  results 
of  modern  science.  People  are  so 
busily  engaged    in    trade,   in    manipu- 


262 


The   Boston   Cooking-School    Magazine 


lating  the  productions  of  inventive 
skill,  they  have  no  time  —  and  what  is 
worse,  perhaps,  no  desire  —  for  purely 
intellectual  cultivation. 

Nor  would  we  have  all  this  far 
otherwise  ;  for  it  is  doubtless  true,  as 
some  one  has  said :  "  The  boy  of 
to-day  knows  hundreds  of  facts  of 
nature  and  science,  of  which  a  wise 
man  in  1800  had  not  dreamed;  and 
he  knows,  also,  how  these  facts  can  be 
used  to  man's  advantage.  He  is 
likely  to  live  longer,  and  is  quite  cer- 
tain to  live  better.  The  world,  up  to 
the  last  century,  had  continued  sub- 
stantially the  same  from  the  days  of 
Egypt  and  Babylon,  so  far  as  concerns 
the  mastery  of  the  forces  of  nature." 
Yet  —  and  we  speak  in  no  spirit  of 
condemnation  or  criticism  of  existing 
methods  —  in  the  midst  of  this  acqui- 
sition of  familiar  acquaintance  with 
acts,  the  forces  of  nature,  and  useful 
things  galore,  would  that  our  schools 
might  teach  our  children  to  cultivate 
habits  of  application,  the  concentra- 
tion of  effort,  and,  also,  inspire  in  them 
an  earnest,  enthusiastic  purpose  to 
pursue  some  one  task,  until  it  be  well 
done ! 

IN     a     recent     address     to     the 
wives   of    legislators   on   "  House- 
hold Science,"  Mrs.  Mary  Wright 
Sewall  declares  :  — 

"  The  men  of  America  constitute  the 
working  class,  as  they  are  confined 
n  shops  and  offices  from  early  morn- 
ng  until  late  at  night;  and  the 
women  are  the  leisure  class,  seeking 
diversion  in  amusements  that  do  not 
amuse. 

"  There  is  no  home  life  [she  con- 
tinues] in  America,  because  women 
spend    all   their   time   in   society  and 


social  duties.  Women  have  a  con- 
tempt for  household  work,  the  work 
which  they  hire  others  to  do ;  and  not 
only  do  they  dislike  it,  but  they  say 
with  their  lips  that  they  do."  "  One 
reason  for  this  state  of  affairs,  as 
Mrs.  Sewall  sees  it,  is  that  the  train- 
ing of  the  average  person  is  too  much 
on  the  intellectual  side.  There  is  an 
educational  system  in  America  that 
recognizes  the  mind,  but  not  until  it 
recognizes  the  body  will  it  be  com- 
plete." 

Statements  like  these  are  suggestive 
of  inquiries :  Upon  whom  does  the 
responsibility  of  housekeeping  rest  ? 
Does  woman  fail  to  realize  that  the 
natural  field  of  her  activities  is  in  the 
realm  of  house-making,  and  that,  lack- 
ing a  mission  here,  her  reasonable 
course  of  life  is  only  partially  fulfilled  ? 
Is  it  true  or  false  that  women  are  too 
fond  of  "  amusements  that  do  not 
amuse,"  and  thus  fail  to  give  the  same 
thought  and  attention  to  household 
affairs  that  men  are  accustomed  to  do 
in  their  respective  vocations  ? 

The  time  has  come  when  training 
is  requisite  in  preparation  for  any 
calling,  as  continued  effort  is  the 
condition  of  successful  achievement 
therein.  To  manage  a  household  well 
requires  one  skilled  in  economy.  The 
best  methods  of  procedure  in  other 
lines  of  business  must  be  observed 
and  applied.  Domestic  science  is  but 
a  single  branch  of  economics.  The 
laws  that  govern  progress  in  one  are 
applicable  to  all.  The  business  of 
housekeeping  differs  in  kind,  only, 
from  that  of  the  office.  In  order  to 
be  equally  successful,  then,  the  affairs 
of  the  household  must  be  conducted 
along  lines  similar  to  those  that  pre- 
vail in  the  office. 


After  Breakfast  Chat 

By  Janet  M.   Hill 


"  Whoso  seeketh  Wisdom  shall  have  no 
door." 

"  Every  great  man  is  always  being  helped 
things  and  all  persons." —  Beecher. 

THIS  is  Styled  the  age  of  spe- 
cialization. Let  it  be  con- 
ceded. The  specialist,  how- 
ever, is  apt  to  demand  larger  returns 
for  his  efforts  than  can  be  met  by  the 
average  housekeeper.  But,  even  when 
a  money  consideration  does  not  stand 
in  the  way  of  calling  in  the  aid  of  a 
specialist  to  decide  how  one's  house 
shall  be  furnished  or  one's  guests  en- 
tertained, the  individual  home-maker 
needs  be  better  informed  in  respect  to 
these  matters  than  the  specialist  him- 
self :  otherwise  how  can  proper  service 
be  recognized  ?  No  housekeeper,  un- 
less she  be  well  informed  in  all  the 
details  of  housekeeping,  can  afford  to 
trust  the  health  and  reputation  of  her 
family  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the 
hired  specialist.  As  a  means  of 
growth,  consult  the  specialist,  to  be 
sure,  and  make  it  certain  that  he  re- 
ceives his  meed ;  but,  if  one  wishes  to 
keep  her  own  identity,  let  her  not  ac- 
cept nor  follow  out  the  suggestions  of 
another  simply  because  they  are  paid 
for.  Individuality,  guided  by  cultivated 
taste,  is  certain  to  receive  the  approval 
it  deserves ;  but,  first  of  all,  let  us  gain 
an  intimate  acquaintance  with  our  oc- 
cupation, and  persevere  in  the  culti- 
vation of  individual  taste. 


great  travail,  for  he  shall  find  her  sitting  at  his 
by  everybody,  for  his  gift  is  to  get  good  out  of  all 

house-cleaning  is  now  under  way. 
The  various  drawers  and  receptacles 
in  which  linen  is  stowed  have  been 
carefully  looked  over  and  plenished  ; 
and,  whenever  they  are  opened,  the 
fresh  odor  of  lavender,  violet,  or  what- 
ever delicate  odor  my  lady  affects,  is 
perceptible.  Dainty  table  and  bed 
linen,  filmy  laces  and  rare  bits  of 
china,  are  dear  to  every  woman's 
heart.  Just  as  certainly  these  things 
exert  an  influence  on  the  higher  life, 
as  do  the  paintings  of  the  masters,  and 
the  songs  of  the  poets. 


The    season    of     the    semi-annual 


The  English  custom  of  serving  five 
o'clock  tea  to  the  chance  caller  of  an 
afternoon  would  be  more  frequently 
practised  by  the  great  body  of  Ameri- 
can housekeepers,  if  its  service  could 
be  more  easily  conducted.  The  tiny 
tea-table  seems  too  crowded  to  render 
the  making  and  pouring  of  tea  an 
agreeable  effort ;  but  with  the  new 
device  —  table  and  tray  combined — 
which  has  lately  found  favor  in  Eng- 
lish drawing-rooms,  the  service  is  ren- 
dered more  simple.  The  "  tray-table  " 
is  made  of  a  light  wood  that  takes 
the  color  and  finish  of  ebony.  It 
rests  on  the  floor,  and,  without  the 
handle  by  which  it  is  carried  from 
room  to  room  or  guest  to  guest,  is  of 
same  height  as  an  ordinary  table. 


264 


The   Boston   Cooking-School    Magazine 


In  general  make  up,  it  is  really  a 
series  of  three  or  four  trays,  held 
together  by  supports  that  serve  for 
feet.  The  edge  of  each  tray,  whether 
plain  or  car\'ed  in  a  filigree  pattern, 
is  raised  an  inch  or  two  to  insure  the 
safety  of  the  plates  of  sandwiches, 
wafers,  or  bonbons,  which  the  occa- 
sion calls  for,  and  for  which  ample 
space  is  provided.  This  leaves  the 
little  table  free  for  the  pouring  of  tea. 

Here  the  tea-ball  —  or  the  teaspoon 
on  the  same  principle  as  the  ball  —  is 
a  convenience,  when  a  single  cup  of  tea 
is  to  be  made  at  a  time  ;  but,  if  sev- 
eral cups  are  to  be  served  at  once,  the 
teapot  with  heat- confining  cosey  is 
called  into  requisition.  The  making 
of  an  attractive  cosey  affords  another 
opportunity,  by  which  the  skilful 
needlewoman  can  express  her  artistic 
taste. 


When  a  dinner  of  ceremony  is  es- 
sayed,—  and  who  does  not  attempt 
one  occasionally?  —  the  hostess  will 
have  need  of  all  the  bits  of  napery 
which  the  morning  callers  of  many 
years  have  given  the  occasion  to  create. 
In  connection  with  these,  and  if  she 
be  provided  with  a  generous  bank 
account,  she  will  undoubtedly  unroll 
from  its  resting-place  a  damask  table 
cloth,  work  of  art,  so  hea\y,  so  cun- 
ningly woven  and  carefully  laundered, 
that  the  figures  in  the  hunting  scene 
depicted  in  its  border  stand  out  like 
those  of  a  bas-relief.  Or  the  damask 
may  be  woven  to  fit  the  table  top,  and 
be    finished    with   a   deep    border   of 


heavy  hand-made  lace,  with  an  inter- 
lining of  silk.  An  all-lace  "  cloth " 
over  silk,  of  a  shade  that  harmonizes 
with  the  general  color  scheme,  is  ad- 
missible, but  the  damask  seems  quite 
as  appropriate  for  the  serious  business 
of  dining. 

In  this  connection  we  might  note 
that  time  was  when  fruit  was  thought 
to  be  a  notable  feature  in  table  deco- 
rations ;  but,  at  the  present  time, — 
save  at  Thanksgiving  or  harvest 
spreads,  —  fruit,  except,  perhaps,  a 
basket  of  choice  strawberries,  or  cher- 
ries with  blossoms  and  leaves,  seems 
no  longer  admissible  for  this  purpose. 
Colored  strips  of  velvet  or  satin  em- 
broidered in  colors  are  also  tabooed. 
Ribbon  is  used  occasionally,  but  not 
lavishly.  The  arrangement  of  this  re- 
quires the  touch  of  a  master  hand,  or 
the  effect  is  liable  to  be  offensive. 


A  word  as  to  the  dinner  itself  may 
be  appreciated.  A  truly  elegant  dinner 
begins  with  soup.  Hors  d'ceuvres 
partake  of  the  Bohemian  character 
of  the  restaurant.  Clear  turtle  and 
cream  of  asparagus  are  favorites  at 
this  season.  These  are  followed  by 
a  choice  of  fish,  one  large,  the  other 
dressed  as  fillets,  with  a  different 
sauce,  and  two  entrees,  one  hot,  the 
other  cold,  one  being  sweetbreads 
in  some  form.  A  saddle  of  lamb, 
the  "  bird  course," —  quails  at  this 
season. —  with  a  salad  and  an  ice 
(creams,  jellies,  and  hot  entremets 
being  excluded),  might  close  the  din- 
ner of  the  season. 


Seasonable  Recipes 


IN  all  recipes  where  flour  is  used,  unless  otherwise  stated,  the  flour  is  measured  after  sifting 
once.  When  flour  is  measured  by  cups,  the  cup  is  filled  with  a  spoon  and  a  level  cupful  is 
meant.  A  tablespoonful  or  a  teaspoonful  of  any  designated  material  is  a  level  spoonful  of 
such  material. 


Cream  of  Asparagus 

Cook  the  tips  cut  from  a  bunch  of 
asparagus  in  boihng  salted  water  until 
tender,  then  remove  to  the  soup 
tureen.  Cook  the  rest  of  the  stalks, 
nicely  cleaned,  and  a  slice  of  onion  in 
the  same  water,  adding  a  little,  if 
needed.  When  tender,  press  the  pulp 
through  a  sieve,  using  a  wooden  potato 
masher  for  this  purpose  and  adding 
occasionally,  a  little  of  the  water  in 
which  the  vegetable  was  cooked,  to 
expedite  the  process.  Alake  a  sauce 
with  one-fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  flour 
and  butter,  the  puree  with  hot  water, 
chicken  or  veal  stock  added  to  make  a 
full  pint,  and  salt  and  pepper.  When 
ready  to  serve,  add  one  pint  of  scalded 
milk  and,  if  at  hand,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  beaten  and  diluted  with  half  a  cup 
of  cream.  Cream-of-spinach  and  cream- 
of-peas  are  both  palatable  and  sightly 
at  this  season. 


Brook  Trout  Fried 

Dress  the  fish,  if  small,  without  re- 
moving the  heads.  Egg-and-bread 
crumb,  and  fry  from  four  to  ten  min- 
utes in  hot  fat.  Arrange  on  a  folded 
napkin,  with  a  sprig  or  two  of  parsley. 
Serve  with  mayonnaise  dressing,  to  a 
cup  of  which  one  tablespoonful,  each, 
of  chopped  olives,  cucumber  pickles, 
and  parsley  has  been  added.  To 
saute',  dip  in  milk,  then  roll  in  flour, 
and  cook  in  hot  fat  from  salt  pork. 

Baked  Halibut  Steaks 

Have  two  halibut  steaks  cut  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  thickness.  Let  stand  in 
a  marinade  an  hour  or  more.  Lay 
thin  slices  of  salt  pork  upon  a  fish 
sheet,  and  place  one  of  the  steaks 
upon  the  pork.  Dip  oysters  —  about 
half  a  pint  will  be  required  —  in 
melted  butter,  then  in  cracker  crumbs, 
and   with  these  cover    the  entire  sur- 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


face  of  the  steak.  Place  the  second 
steak  upon  the  oysters,  season,  and  lay 
slices  of  pork  on  the  top.     Bake  thirty- 


Brook  Trout 

five  or  forty  minutes,  basting  three  or 
four  times  with  the  juice  in  the  pan, 
or  with  butter  melted  in  hot  water. 
A  few  minutes  before  the  fish  is  to  be 
taken  from  the  oven,  remove  the  pork, 
and  cover  the  top  with  a  cup  of 
cracker  crumbs  that  have  been  stirred 


the  yolks  of  two,  three,  or  four  eggs, 
one  at  a  time,  according  to  the  con- 
sistency desired,  and  beat  into  the 
butter  thoroughly.  Add  one-fourth  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  few  grains  of 
cayenne,  and  half  a  cup  of  boiling 
water,  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler, 
stirring  constantly  until  the  sauce 
thickens.  Lift  the  saucepan  from  the 
water  occasionally,  lest  the  sauce 
curdle  by  over-cooking.  Add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  just  before  tak- 
ing from  the  fire.  With  two  egg-yolks 
the  sauce  should  have  a  creamy  con- 
sistency. When  four  are  used,  it 
should  have  the  consistency  of  mayon- 
naise dressing. 

Potatoes  to  serve  with  Fish 
Pass  hot  mashed  potatoes  through  a 
ricer.  Add  a  generous  piece  of  butter, 
a  little  salt  and  hot  milk  or  cream,  as 
needed.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  press 
firmly  into  a  buttered  tin.  Have  the 
potato  about  half  an  inch  thick.     Cut 


Halibut  Steak 


into  one-third  a  cup  of  melted  butter. 
Serve,  when  the  crumbs  are  browned, 
with  oyster,  or  HoUandaise  sauce,  and 
potato  balls. 


HoUandaise  Sauce 
Cream  half  a  cup  of    butter. 


Add 


into  diaomnd-shaped  pieces,  and  score 
diagonally  with  a  skewer  dipped  in 
melted  butter.  Brush  over  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  beaten  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  milk,  and  brown  in  oven.  Serve 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  peas,  in  a  thick 
cream  sauce,  in  the  centre  of  each  piece. 


Seasonable   Recipes 


267 


Cucumber  Salad  for  Fish  Course 
With  a  handy  slicer  remove  the  out- 
side rind  from  the  cucumbers,  cut  in 
thin  slices,  and  let  stand  in  ice-water 
to   chill.     Wipe   dry.   and   arrange  the 


Potatoes  sened  with  Fish 

slices  in  the  salad  bowl  in  the  form  of 
a  Greek  cross.  Make  a  French  dress- 
ing in  the  proportion  of  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cider  vinegar  to  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Rub  the 
inside  of  the  salad  bowl  with  the  cut 
side  of  an  onion  before  the  salad  is 
disposed  in  it. 

Remnants  of  Ham  with  Asparagus 

Take  equal  quantities  of  cooked 
asparagus,  cut  into  bits,  and  cold 
cooked  ham  cut  into  small  cubes.  For 
each  cup  of  material  make  a  sauce  of 
two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  a  cup  of  the  liquid  in  which  the 
asparagus  was  cooked,  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  with  salt  and  nutmeg 
to  taste.  Add  two  beaten  eggs,  also 
the  ham  and  asparagus.  Turn  into 
individual  casseroles,  or  cups,  buttered  : 
cover  the  tops  with  buttered  cracker 
crumbs,  and  bake  in  oven  to  a  golden 
brown.  Serve  in  the  casseroles  as  a 
luncheon  dish,  or  as  an  entree. 

Lobster  Salad 
Cut   the    meat   from    a    lobster    into 
cubes,    and    add     enough    whites     of 
cooked  eggs,  also  cut  in  cubes,  to  equal 


one-eighth  the  bulk.  Season  with 
French  dressing,  and  fashion  on  a 
salad  plate  into  an  oblong  shape  about 
the  size  of  a  lobster.  Press  the  tail 
shell  of  ihe  lobster  into  one  end  of  the 
salad  and  the  head  shell  into  the  other 
end.  Mask  the  salad  with  mayonnaise 
dressing.  Make  rings  of  cooked  egg, 
fine  chopped,  at  the  joints  of  shell  and 
salad,  also  two  other  rings  between 
these.  Garnish  these  rings  with  figures 
cut  from  pickled  beet,  and  the  ends 
of  the  dish  with  lettuce-leaves,  hold- 
ing mayonnaise  dressing  dotted  with 
capers. 

Veal  Rolls  a  la  Jardiniere 
Cut  veal  from  the  leg  in  very  thin 
slices.  With  a  wooden  mallet  pound 
the  slices  to  one-fourth  an  inch  in 
thickness,  cut  in  pieces  three  by  live 
inches,  and  chop  the  trimmings  with 
one-eighth  as  much  of  bacon  or  fat 
salt  pork.  Add  half  as  much,  by  meas- 
ure, of  fresh  bread  crumbs  as  meat. 
season  with  onion  juice,  paprika, 
lemon   iuice.  salt,  and   the   stems  of   a 


Cucumber  Salad 

dozen  mushrooms  chopped  and  saute'd 
in  butter.  Add  a  beaten  egg.  and 
stock,  or  water,  to  make  the  whole  as 
moist  as  possible  and  still  hold  its  shape. 
Spread  each  slice  wi:h  the  forcemeat 
nearlv   to    the    ed2:e,   roll    tightlv,  and 


268 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


tie  or  fasten  with  small  buttered 
skewers.  Shape  the  remaining  mixt- 
ure into  balls.  Dredge  both  rolls  and 
balls  with  salt,  pepper,  and  fiour,  and 
saute  to  a  light  brown  in  hot  bacon  fat 
or  butter.  Half  cover  with  stock  or 
thin  cream,  and  let  simmer  about  forty- 
five  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Mean- 
while boil  cauliflower  and  potatoes, 
heat  canned  peas,  saute'  a  dozen  mush- 
room caps,  wiped  and  peeled,  and  cook 
ten  minutes  in  a  little  cream.  Mash 
the  potatoes,  season  and  shape  into  a 
platform,  upon  a  serving-dish  of  suit- 
able size  to  hold  the  rolls.  Dispose 
the  rolls  upon  this  and  the  vegeta- 
bles and  balls  around.  Mix  the  mush- 
room cream  with  the  sauce  in  the  fry- 
ing-pan, and  serve  in  a  dish  apart. 

Devilled  Oysters 
Chop  one  quart  of  oysters ;  add  one 


taste,  also  mustard,  if  desired.  Heat 
over  the  fire,  then  add  four  raw  eggs 
slightly  beaten,  and,  when  thoroughly 
mixed,  turn  into  buttered  shells  or 
paper  cases.  Cover  with  one  cup  of 
cracker  crumbs  stirred  into  one-fourth 
a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Set  into  the 
oven  long  enough  to  brown  the 
crumbs. 

Spinach  Balls 

{Adapted from  "  Golden  Age  Cook  Book  " 
Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  When 
blended,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream 
and  three-fourths  a  cup  of  cooked 
spinach,  chopped  fine.  Beat  well,  re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  add  two  eggs, 
one  at  a  time.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  to  taste,  and  a  few  grains  of 
mace.     Butter    a    tablespoon    and    fill 


Veal  Rolls  a  la  Jardiniere 


pint  of  soft  bread  crumbs  (more  if 
the  mixture  seems  too  soft),  one  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  onion,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 


with  the  spinach  mixture,  making  it 
level  with  the  edge  of  the  spoon,  and 
poach  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water 
four  or  five  minutes  or  until  firm.  The 
water  must  not  boil  hard,  but  simply 


Seasonable   Recipes 


269 


simmer  very  gently  at  one  side.  Six 
or  more  balls  may  be  cooked  at  one 
time.  Let  drain  in  a  colander  while 
making  a  cream  sauce ;  reheat  the 
balls  in  the  sauce,  and  serve.  In  the 
half  tone  a  teaspoonful  of  the  sauce 
with  three  or  four  capers  was  placed 


in   small    buttered  tins   in   a   very  hot 
oven. 

Moulded  Macaroni  and  Cheese 
Cook   three-fourths  a  cup  of   maca- 
roni, broken  in  small  pieces,  in  rapidly 
boiling    salted    water    half    an    hour. 


Spinach  Balh 


on  the  top  of  each  ball,  and  the  rest  of 
the  sauce  poured  around  the  balls. 

Saratoga  Corn  Cake 

Sift  together  two  cups  of  pastry 
flour,  one  cup  and  a  half  of  granulated 
yellow  corn-meal,  half  a  cup  of  sugar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda.  Beat  two  eggs  with- 
out separating,  add  two  cups  of  thick 
sour  milk  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  and  stir  into  the  dry 
mixture.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  bake 
in  a  large  shallow  pan  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes. 

Newport  Tea  Cakes  (Popovers) 

Sift  together  three  cups  of  sifted 
flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  very  light. 
Add  one  pint  of  milk,  and  stir  into  the 
■dry  ingredients.  Then  beat  in  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  dry.     Bake 


Drain,  then  add  a  cup  of  milk,  and 
cook  until  the  milk  is  absorbed ;  then 
stir  into  one  cup  of  white  sauce  (use 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  making 
the  sauce),  add  two  tablespoonfuls  or 
more  of  grated  cheese,  and,  when 
cooled  a  little,  one  egg  beaten  until 
light.  Turn  into  a  buttered  border 
mould  sprinkled  with  bread  crumbs, 
and  poach,  standing  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Turn 
from  the  mould,  and  fill  the  centre 
with  tomatoes  stewed  with  mushrooms. 

Chocolate  Cake 
Ingredients  :  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
one  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar,  four  eggs, 
half  a  cup  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder,  one  cup  and  three-fourths  of 
flour,  and  four  ounces  of  chocolate, 
dissolved  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of  boil- 
ing water.     Add  the   dissolved   choco- 


270 


The  Boston   Cooking-School   Magazine 


late  after  the  yolks  have  been  added 
to  the  butter  and  sugar  creamed  to- 
gether, then  finish  as  usual.  Bake  in 
a  large  sheet  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 
Frost  with  boiled  icing. 

Cream  Sponge  Cake 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  until 
light.  Add  gradually  one  cup  of  sugar, 
and,  alternately,  half  a  cup  of  double 
cream  and  two  cups  of  flour  sifted  with 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Add  a  grating  of  lemon  rind  and  the 
stiff-beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake 
in  a  loaf  about  forty  minutes. 

Quick  Loaf  Cake 

Mix  the  following  ingredients  accord- 
ing to  the  directions  given  for  mixing 


Fig  Souffle,  Boiled  Custard 

Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs  until 
foamy.  Add  one- fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  and  beat  until  dry. 
Then  add,  very  gradually,  five  level 
tablespoonfuls  of  fine  granulated  sugar, 
beating  constantly,  and  one-fourth  a 
pound  of  figs  cooked  until  tender  and 
chopped  very  fine.  Also  the  liquid  in 
which  they  were  cooked,  reduced  to 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls,  may  be 
added.  Then  fold  in  three  level  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar.  Turn  into  a  well- 
buttered  mould,  and  let  cook,  standing 
on  a  trivet,  or  fold  of  paper,  about  half 
an  hour.  Turn  from  the  mould,  and 
serve  with  a  cold  boiled  custard.  The 
pudding  may  also  be  served  cold,  or  it 
may  be  reheated  in  the  mould  in  the 


Fig  Souffle, 

cake  in  the  October-November  issue  of 
this  magazine  :  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
butter,  three  cups  of  sugar,  five  cups 
of  flour,  one  cup  of  milk,  four  eggs, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  four  level 
teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  and 
one  wine-glass  of  wine.  By  many, 
citron,  raisins,  currants,  and  spices  are 
thought  to  improve  this  cake.  Bake 
in  a  loaf  about  one  hour  and  a  half  in 
oven  at  about  the  same  temperature  as 
for  bread. 


Boiled  Custard' 

same  manner  as  it  was  first  cooked. 
Cooked  dates  or  prunes  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  figs. 

Boiled'  Custard 
Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  slightly. 
Add  a  scant  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  a 
few  grains  of  salt,  and  beat  again. 
Pour  over  the  mixture  one  pint  (gener- 
ous measure)  of  hot  milk.  Then  re- 
turn to  the  double  boiler,  and  stir  and 
cook  until  the  mixture  coats  the  spoon. 


Seasonable  Recipes 


271 


Rhubarb  Jelly  with  Almonds 

Soak  one-fourth  a  package  of  gela- 
tine in  one-fourth  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
and  turn  into  a  pint  of  baked  rhubarb. 
Add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  one 


let  stand  buried  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt  three  or  four  hours. 

Orange  Jelly 
Soften  half  a  package  of  gelatine  in 
half  a  cup  of  cold  water.     Add   half   a 


Pineapple  Mousse  with  Orange  Jelly 


ounce  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
split  in  halves.  In  cooking  the  rhu- 
barb, add  only  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water, 
just  enough  to  keep  the  sugar  from 
burning,  until  the  juice  begins  to  flow. 
Use  about  a  cup  of  sugar  to  a  pound 
of  stalks.  Bake  only  until  tender,  to 
keep  the  pieces  whole. 

Pineapple  Mousse  with  Orange 

Jelly 
Decorate  the  bottom  of  a  chilled 
mould  with  candied  cherries.  Cover 
with  liquid  orange  jelly,  and  set  aside 
to  become  firm.  Mix  one  pint  of  thick 
cream,  three-fourths  a  cup  of  sugar, 
and  a  cup  of  pineapple  juice  scalded 
and  cooled.  Whip  very  light.  Turn 
into  the  mould,  filling  to  overflow. 
Press  the  cover  down  over  paper,  and 


cup  of  boiling  water  and  one  cup  of 
sugar.  When  the  liquid  is  cool  and 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  strain  over  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  one  pint  of  orange 
juice.  Less  than  half  the  recipe  will 
be  sufficient  to  use  in  the  mould  with 
the  pineapple  mousse. 

Pistachio  Ice-cream 
Crush  two  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts 
very  fine  and  smooth  in  a  mortar.  Let 
heat  in  a  quart  of  milk  and  a  cup  of 
double  cream  to  a  temperature  not 
above  100  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  almond  extract,  and  one 
junket  tablet  crushed  and  dissolved  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water.  Let 
stand  undisturbed   in  warm   room  ten 


272 


The   Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


or  fifteen  minutes.  Then  pour  the 
jelHed  mixture  into  the  can  of  the 
freezer,  and  freeze  as  usual.  When 
well  frozen,  add  sufficient  leaf-green 
v^egetable  color  to  tint  a  delicate  color. 

Chocolate  Ice-cream,  Vanilla 
Sauce 

Scald  one  quart  of  milk  with  two 
inches  of  cinnamon  bark.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs.  Add  one  cup  and  a 
half  of  sugar  and  a  few  grains  of  salt, 
and  cook  in  the  hot  milk  until  the  mixt- 
ure coats  the  spoon.  Add  three  squares 
of  melted  chocolate  that  has  been 
cooked  slightly,  with  two  tablespoon - 
fuls  of  sugar,  a  few  tablespoonfuls 
of  hot  water  and  one  pint  of  cream. 
Strain,  and,  when  cool,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  vanilla  extract. 
When  frozen,  pack  in  brick  moulds. 
Cover  with  a  piece  of  wrapping  paper, 
and  let  stand  packed  in  four  parts  of 
ice  to  one  of  salt  an  hour  or  more.  In 
serving,  pour  over  each  slice  a  little 

Vanilla  Sauce 
Cook  two  cups  of  water  and  one  cup 


of  sugar  ten  minutes.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  gelatine  softened  in  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  strain,  and 
chill.  When  ready  to  use,  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

Grape  Cream  with  Pistachio  Nuts 
(Lavender  and  Green) 
To  one  pint  of  double  cream  add 
three-fourths  a  cup,  each,  of  grape 
juice  and  sugar  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon.  Whisk  until  solid  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bowl,  then  fill  into  paper 
cases.  Decorate  with  blanched  pis- 
tachio nuts  cut  in  halves.  A  scant 
tablespoonful  of  gelatine,  softened  in 
cold  water  and  dissolved  over  the  tea- 
kettle, may  be  added  to  the  grape 
juice  if  the  cream  is  light. 

Pineapple  Cream 
Beat  half  a  cup  of  butter  and  one 
cup  of  sugar  to  a  cream.  Stir  in  half  a 
pound  of  grated  pineapple,  half  a  cup 
of  milk  and  two  small  eggs,  beaten  until 
well  mixed.  Bake  with  or  without  an 
undercrust. 


Grape  Cream  with  Pistachio  Nuts  (Lavender  and  Green) 


Menus   for   Easter  Tide 

Wedding  Breakfast — 25  Guests.     (Color  Scheme,  Green  and  White.) 

^tgljt's  canlilcs  are  burnt  out,  anti  jocunti  Hag 
Stantis  tiptoe  on  ti}e  mistg  mountain  tops. 

—  Romeo  and  yuliet. 

Consomme,  with  Chicken  Quenelles  and  Peas. 

Oyster  Croquettes  (Egg-shaped),  Cucumbers. 

Braised  Sweetbreads,  Asparagus  Tips. 

Fillets  of  Beef  Tenderloin,  Brown  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Pineapple-and-celery  Salad, 

Green  Mayonnaise,  with  Pistachio  Nuts. 

Pistachio-and-vanilla  Ice-cream  (Junket)  in  Meringue  Shells. 

Assorted  Cakes.  Coffee. 


Easter  Dinner.      [Yellow  Color  Scheme,) 

Saffotiils, 
^fjat  come  before  ttje  sballohi  Dares,  anti  take 
Ci)e  toiutis  of  fHarci}  toitJ)  teautg. 

Cream  of  Spinach.  Consomme  a  la  Royal. 

PiM  Olas. 

Brook  Trout,  Fried,  Sauce  Tartare. 

Potato  Croquettes  (Egg-shaped),  Peas  in  Cream  Sauce  in  Centre. 

Asparagus  in  Puff-paste  Patties,  Egg  Yolks. 

Crown  of  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce. 

Bernhardt  Potatoes.  Banana  Fritters,  Orange  Sauce. 

Lettuce.  Edam  Cheese.  Water  Crackers. 

Pineapple  Mousse,  with  Orange  Jelly. 

Assorted  Cakes.  Caf£  Noir. 


Menus  for  One  Week      JHa^ 

{Vegetarian  Dishes,  including  Eggs,  Milk,  and  Cheese^ 
Whatever  pleases  the  palate  nourishes. —  Ajicient  Maxim. 


breakfast 

Vitos.     Figs.     Cream. 

Zwieback.     Cocoa. 

'^nner 

Vegetable  Consomme. 

Entire-wheat    Bread    Sticks. 

Asparagus  Loaf,  Cream  Sauce. 

Saratoga  Chips. 

Lettuce,  Tomato  Jelly. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing. 

Strawberries.     Cake. 

Black  Coffee. 

Supper 

Eggs  in  Curry  Sauce.     Dry  Toast. 

Rhubarb  and  Almond  Jelly. 

Wafers.     Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Quaker  Oats,  Bananas,  Cream. 

Fried  Mock  Oysters  (Komlet).     Radishes. 

Zwieback.     Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Spinach  Timbales. 

Cream   Sauce   a   la  Royal. 

Baked  Rhubarb  and  Raisins. 

Puff-paste  Points.     Tea. 

'Thinner 

Cream  of  Rice  Soup. 

Boston  Baked  Beans  in  Indi\'idual  Bean  Pots. 

Beets  Stuffed  with  Cucumber  Salad. 

Rye  Bread  and  Butter. 

Pineapple  Sherbet. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Gluten  Grits.      Stewed  Peaches  (dried),  Cream. 

Eggs  with  Brown  Butter. 

French  Fried  Potatoes.     Corn-meal  Puffs. 

Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Spinach  Balls,  Caper  Sauce. 

Entire-wheat  Biscuit. 

Baked  Bananas,  Lemon  Sauce. 

Tea. 

^nner 

Puree  of  Lima  Beans  (dried). 

Macaroni  and  Cheese  Croquettes. 

Moulded  Spinach-and-Mushroom  Salad. 

Sauce  Tartare. 
Maple  Custard.     Cereal  Coffee. 


breakfast 

Ralston  Breakfast  Food,  Cream. 

Stewed  Prunes. 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Spinach. 

Vitos  Muffins.     Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Salad  of  Baked  Beans 

with  French  Dressing.     Olives. 

Toasted  Muffins.     Cottage  Pudding, 

Foamy  Sauce.     Tea. 

"l^inner 

Moulded  Macaroni  and  Cheese. 

Tomatoes  Stewed  with  Mushrooms. 

Asparagus,  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Chocolate  Bavariose. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 
Old  Gristmill  Toasted  Wheat. 

Dates,  Cream. 

Eggs  poached  in  Pimentos. 

White  Hashed  Potatoes. 

Rice  Waffles,  Maple  Sj-rup.     Cereal  Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce-and-Lima  Bean  Salad. 

Boston    Brown    Bread    and    Butter. 

Corn-starch  Pudding,  Chocolate  Sauce. 

Tea. 

"Dinner 

Cream  of  Potato  Soup,  Croutons. 

Cheese  Souffle.     Beet  Greens. 

Sugared  Pineapple.     Hot  Boiled  Rice. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


"Breakfast 

Barley  Crystals,  Cream. 

Omelet  with  Asparagus.    Rhode  Island  Com  Cake. 

Oranges.     Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Komlet  Soup.    Browned  Crackers. 

Rhubarb  Pie. 

Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Baked  Bean  Soup.     Browned  Crackers. 

Nut  Loaf,  Brown  Sauce.     Pim  Olas. 

Cabbage  and  Cheese  au  Gratin. 

Lettuce  and  Peppergrass  Salad. 

Pineapple  Tapioca  Pudding,  Cream. 

Cereal  Coffee. 


X 

a 

> 


breakfast 

Old  GristmUl  Rolled  Wheat, 

Cream.     Poached  Eggs  on  Toast. 

Potatoes  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Fried  Rice,  Maple  Syrup. 

Coffee. 


'Dinner 

Cream  of  Asparagus. 

Guochi  a  la  Romain. 

Cole  Slaw. 

Fig  Floating  Island. 

Cake.     Cereal  Coffee. 


Supper 

Milk  Toast. 

Corn-meal  Muffins. 

Sliced  Bananas. 

Tea. 


In    Reference   to   Menus   and    Recipes 


"  Please  state  whether,  according  to  the 
most  advanced  theories  of  scientists,  a 
diet  which  omits  animal  flesh  is  really 
conducive  to  better  health  and  greater 
vigor  and  strength  of  body  and  mind. 
We  crave  meat  and  yet  are  anxious  to 
limit  ourselves  to  the  best  diet  for  health 
that  is  compatible  with  economy." 

Volumes  have  been  written  pro  and 
con  both  a  flesh  and  a  fleshless  diet, 
and  it  is  unquestionable  that  authorities 
stand  firm  in  their  advocacy  of  either 
the  one  or  the  other  diet.  In  practice, 
often  the  matter  will  be  decided  by 
one's  individual  idiosyncrasies. 

Theoretically,  man's  digestive  sys- 
tem would  indicate  that  his  food  was 
not  to  be  taken  exclusively  from  either 
the  animal  or  the  vegetable  kingdom. 
The  two  great  food  principles,  proteid 
and  carbohydrate,  which  must  of  ne- 
cessity be  supplied  in  our  food,  are 
both  found  in  the  vegetable  kingdom ; 
but  the  proteid  is  in  very  minute  quan- 
tities, and,  besides,  it  is  not  in  a  con- 
dition to  be  as  quickly  metabolized,  or 
changed  into  body  substance,  as  is  the 
protein  of  eggs,  fish,  and  meat.  And, 
if  the  proteid  be  supplied  entirely  from 
the  vegetable  kingdom,  the  bulk  of 
food  required  is  too  large  ;  but,  if  milk, 
cheese,  and  eggs  be  added,  thus  sup- 
plying this  principle  in  a  more  con- 
centrated form,  it  would  seem  that 
everything  was  included  to  give  an 
ideal  dietary.  For,  while  we  have 
learned  to  look  with  favor  upon  a 
tender,  well-browned  steak  or  roast, 
health  and  strength  can  certainly  be 
maintained  without  them. 

The  matter  may  be  presented  in  an- 
other form.  For  proper  maintenance 
of  health  and  strength  a  certain  quan- 
tity of   nutritive   material  must  be  in- 


gested daily.  The  nutritive  value  of 
any  given  food-stuff  is  measured  by 
the  amount  of  heat  liberated  during 
its  oxidation  into  those  chemical  com- 
binations in  which  it  is  to  leave  the 
organism. 

The  unit  of  measurement  is  the  cal- 
orie :  this  is  equivalent  to  the  quantity 
of  heat  necessary  to  raise  one  kilo- 
gram (2.2046  lbs.)  of  water  i  degree 
Centigrade.  A  gram  of  albumen  fur- 
nishes 4.1  calories,  a  gram  of  carbo- 
hydrate 4.1,  and  a  gram  of  fat  9.3 
calories.  Hence,  in  choosing  food 
from  the  vegetable  kingdom,  if  vege- 
table fat  can  be  assimilated  by  the 
individual,  this  may  be  used,  thus  cut- 
ting down  materially,  on  account  of  its 
high  food  value,  the  bulk  of  food.  At 
the  same  time  it  cannot  take  the  place 
of  proteid. 

Regarded  from  a  scientific  stand- 
point, an  average  dietary  calls  for 
food  capable  of  supplying  about  2,500 
calories ;  thus  a  little  more  than  two 
pounds  of  bread,  1,205  calories  per 
pound,  would  supply  the  requisite  food 
value.  About  five  and  a  half  pounds 
of  potatoes,  475  calories  per  pound, 
might  be  substituted  for  the  bread. 
Both  of  these  articles  get  their  high 
fuel  value  from  the  starch  they  con- 
tain. Neither  is  a  representative  food, 
nor  can  the  proper  combination  of 
food  principles  be  perfectly  secured  in 
any  one  article.  An  average  dietary 
for  an  individual,  weighing  about  154 
pounds,  should  contain  about  118 
grams  of  albumen,  four  times  as  many 
grams  of  carbohydrates,  and  as  many 
grams  of  fat  as  will  produce  calories 
equal  to  those  produced  by  the  albu- 
men,   in    this    case     56    grams.     This 


276 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


might  be  supplied  in  seven  eggs,  about 
three-fourths  a  cup  of  cream,  and  a 
little  less  than  one  pound  and  a  fourth 
of  bread, —  about  20  slices. 

In  our  vegetarian  menus  we  have 
included  eggs.  In  many  dishes  these 
appear  in  combination  with  vegetables, 
as  in  spinach  timbales  and  balls,  aspar- 
agus loaf,  cheese  souffle',  mould  of 
macaroni,  etc.  These  are  the  pieces  de 
resistance  of  the  meal,  those  that  sup- 
ply in  large  measure  the  nitrogenous 
element,  without  which  it  is  impossible 
to  maintain  life. 

As  the  solubility  —  that  is,  digesti- 
bility —  of  albumen,  its  principal  com- 
pound, is  impaired  by  improper  cook- 
ing, it  is  well,  perhaps,  at  this  time  to 
call  attention  again  to  its  cooking.  All 
these  dishes  and  similar  dishes  are 
cooked  by  "poaching."  We  speak  of 
poached  eggs,  or  eggs  cooked  in  water 
after  they  have  been  taken  from  the 
shell  without  disturbing  the  contents 
of  the  egg ;  but  we  have  come  to  apply 
the  term  "poaching"  to  the  cooking 
of  all  articles  containing  eggs,  either  in 
the  oven  or  on  the  top  of  the  range,  in 
dishes  that  are  surrounded  with  hot 
Avater.  Two  things  will  insure  per- 
fectly cooked  articles :  the  dish  con- 
taining the  food  should  be  set  on  a 
trivet, —  a  piece  of  folded  paper  an- 
swers the  purpose  admirably, —  that  it 
may  not  come  in  contact  with  the  ves- 
sel containing  the  heated  water ;  sec- 
ond, the  water  in  which  the  cooking  is 


to  be  done  should  be  at  the  boiling- 
point,  when  it  is  poured  about  the  dish 
containing  the  food,  but  it  should  not 
be  allowed  to  boil  thereafter. 


The  Menus  for  Easter-tide 

Prepare  the  chicken  quenelles  for 
the  soup  by  the  recipe  given  on  page 
223,  February-March  number.  Shape 
them  with  a  lady  finger  or  even  a 
smaller-sized  tube.  They  may  be 
shaped  and  poached  in  hot  water 
some  time  before  serving,  and  then  re- 
heated at  time  of  serving. 

In  making  the  thick  sauce  for  the 
oyster  croquettes,  use  chicken  stock. 
Then,  upon  cooling,  the  mixture  will  be 
firm  and  easily  shaped.  Parboil  and 
drain  the  oysters,  then  cut  into  small 
pieces  before  adding  to  the  sauce. 

Arrange  the  cucumbers  as  in  the 
half-tone  for  cucumber  salad. 

To  a  cup  of  mayonnaise  dressing, 
served  with  the  pineapple  and  celery 
salad,  add  one-fourth  a  cup  of  pounded 
pistachio  nuts,  and,  if  needed,  a  drop 
or  two  of  liquid  color  to  secure  a  deli- 
cate green  tint.  Dispose  the  salad  on 
a  round  dish,  and  in  the  centre  place 
a  small  round  slice  of  pineapple  from 
which  the,  core  has  been  taken.  Fill 
the  space  occupied  by  the  core  with 
mayonnaise,  and  decorate  this  with 
halved  pistachio  nuts. 

In  the  dinner  menus  sift  hard-boiled 
yolk  of  eggs  over  the  asparagus  with 
which  the  patties  are  filled. 


THIS  department  is  for  the  benefit  and  free  use  of  our  subscribers.  Questions  relating  to 
menus  and  recipes,  and  those  pertaining  to  cuUnary  science  and  domestic  economics  in 
general,  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by  the  editor.  Communications  for  this  department  must 
reach  us  before  the  first  of  the  month  preceding  that  in  which  the  answers  are  expected  to 
appear.  In  letters  requesting  answer  by  maO,  please  enclose  postage  stamp;  for  menus,  $i. 
Address  queries  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor  Boston  Cooking- School  Magazine,  372  Boylston 
Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


Query  447. —  Mrs.  G.  W.  P.,  Denver, 
Col. :  "  Kindly  give  recipe  for  blushing 
apples  with  orange  sauce.  Also  in  the 
directions  for  oatmeal  biscuit  what  is 
meant  by  '  let  rise  twice  '  and  what  brand 
of  oatmeal  do  you  use." 

Blushing  Apples  with  Orange 
Sauce 

With  an  apple-corer  remove  the 
cores  from  six  or  eight  bright  red 
apples.  Let  cook  until  tender  in  boil- 
ing water,  turning  often  to  retain  the 
shape.  Remove  from  the  water  with 
a  skimmer,  cut  the  skin  on  opposite 
sides,  and  remove  carefully.  With  a 
spoon  scrape  off  the  red  pulp  adher- 
ing closely  to  the  inside  of  the  skin, 
and  replace  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
apple.  Serve  hot  with  a  sauce  made 
by  boiling  one  cup  of  sugar  and  the 
juice  of  two  oranges  five  or  six 
minutes.  A  little  grated  rind  may  be 
added.  Whipped  cream  passed  at  the 
same  time  makes  the  dish  quite  elab- 
orate. 

Oatmeal  Biscuit 
Pour    the   hot    milk   onto    the    un- 
cooked    oatmeal    (Quaker,    Ralston's, 
and  Pillsbury's  are  good)  and  add  the 
butter,  and,    when   cooled  sufficiently. 


the  yeast  and  flour.  Mix  as  usual,  and, 
when  light,  cut  down  (not  knead),  and 
put  into  the  moulds.  Bake  when  again 
light. 


Query  448-— J-  ^^f-  S.,  Boston: 
•'  Kindly  print  a  list  of  foods,  meats, 
drinks,  vegetables,  which  can  be  safely 
eaten  by  one  inclined  to  grow  fat  and 
who  can  take  little  exercise.  I  live  now 
on  gluten  bread,  hot  water,  some  meats, 
and  a  little  fish:  use  neither  sugar  nor 
starch,  and  would  like  a  little  more  variety. 
Have  no  diabetic  trouble." 

Anti-fat  Diet 

Fat  in  the  body  is  accumulated 
chiefly  by  indulgence  in  the  carbohy- 
drates (fat,  starch,  and  sugar),  though 
some  fat  is  formed  from  the  albumi- 
noids. The  corpulent  should  avoid 
as  far  as  possible  food  containing  fat, 
starch,  and  sugar,  and  eat  no  more  of 
any  kind  of  food  than  is  necessary  to 
maintain  health  and  strength.  Mas- 
sage will  be  beneficial,  as,  also,  fre- 
quent bathing  and  rubbing.  One  who 
has  reached  full  stature  and  takes  little 
exercise  requires  less  food  than  is 
generally  supposed.  Such  vegetables 
as  spinach,  string  beans,  lettuce,  celery, 
tomatoes,  cabbage,  asparagus,  turnips, 
cauliflower,  kale,  Brussels  sprouts,  the 


278 


The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


white  of  eggs,  lean  meat,  white  fish, 
white  meat  of  poultry,  clear,  un- 
thickened  soups,  coffee  from  the  berry 
without  cream  or  sugar,  cocoa,  not 
chocolate,  made  with  hot  water  and 
sweetened  with  saccharine,  and  fruit 
juices  (lemon,  orange,  and  pineapple) 
are  among  the  articles  indicated  for  a 
proper  diet  under  the  conditions  men- 
tioned. In  this  and  in  all  similar 
cases  we  know  too  little  of  the  condi- 
tions to  advise  with  assurance.  Con- 
sult a  physician  who  makes  a  specialty 
of  treating  patients  through  diet  rather 
than  drugs,  and  beneficent  results  are 
sure  to  follow. 


Query  449. —  Mrs.  G.  W.  P.,  Denver, 
Col. :  "  Recipe  for  chops  with  chestnuts. 
The  chestnuts  are  whole,  very  tender,  and 
with  a  sauce." 

Chops  with  Chestnuts 
Remove  the  shells  and  blanch  the 
nuts  as  directed  on  page  233,  Febru- 
ary-March number  of  this  magazine. 
Then  simmer  in  well-seasoned  broth 
until  tender.  When  cooked,  there 
should  be  an  equal  measure  of  nuts 
and  broth.  For  a  cup  of  broth  cream 
together  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  stir  into  the  boil- 
ing liquid.  Let  simmer  ten  minutes, 
then  pour  the  whole  over  the  chops 
broiled  in  the  usual  manner.  If  a 
brown  sauce  be  preferred,  brown  two 
slices,  each,  of  onion  and  carrot  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  then  add  the 
nuts  and  brown  stock,  and  thicken 
with  nut-brown  flour. 


Query  450. —  Mrs.  E.  G.,  Ottawa, 
Wis. :  "  Where  can  I  purchase  a  timbale 
iron?  Kindly  give  recipe  for  batter,  and 
state  with  what  the  little  cups  are  filled. 
Also  give  recipes  for  mayonnaise  dressing 
made  of  butter,  and  for  fruit  sherbet." 


Timbale  Irons  and  Batter 

Timbale  irons  are  advertised  in  the 
magazine.  They  can  be  purchased  at 
most  kitchen-furnishing  stores. 

Batter  for  Swedish  Timbale 
Cases 
Sift  together  three-fourths  a  cup  of 
flour  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Mix  to  a  batter,  with  one  egg  beaten 
and  diluted  with  half  a  cup  of  milk. 
When  smooth,  beat  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  olive  oil,  and  set  aside,  covered,  for 
several  hours  before  using.  Hold  the 
iron  in  the  fat  that  has  been  heated 
almost  to  the  smoking-point,  and,  when 
hot,  dip  into  the  batter  to  three-fourths 
its  height,  then  into  the  hot  fat  until 
the  timbale  is  delicately  browned.  If 
the  batter  be  too  thick,  the  timbales 
will  lack  crispness,  and  more  milk 
needs  be  added.  With  a  little  expe- 
rience, one  can  readily  learn  to  dip 
the  iron  into  the  batter  so  that  in 
cooking  it  will  rise  just  to  the  top  of 
the  iron :  otherwise,  trim  the  tops  of 
the  cases  with  a  sharp  knife.  Fill  with 
cooked  chicken,  veal,  sweetbreads, 
mushrooms,  or  fish,  cut  in  cubes  and 
mixed  with  cream,  Bechamel,  or  brown 
sauce.  Parboiled  oysters,  with  sauce, 
are  a  favorite  filling. 

Boiled  Dressing 
Mayonnaise  dressing  is  made  with 
oil.  It  is  a  seasoned  emulsion  of  oil, 
slightly  acidulated  with  lemon  juice  or 
vinegar.  A  "boiled  dressing,"  proba- 
bly, is  desired.  Mix  together  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  one-fourth  a  teaspoonful 
of  paprika.  Add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and,  when  beaten  with  the  other 
ingredients,   also   four   tablespoonfuls, 


Queries  and  Answers 


279 


each,  of  butter  and  vinegar,  or  lemon 
juice,  or  half  of  each.  Then  cook 
over  hot  water,  stirring  constantly 
until  thickened.  When  cool  and  ready 
to  serve,  add  half  a  cup  of  thick  cream, 
beaten  stiff. 

Strawberry  Sherbet 

Boil  together  one  quart  of  water  and 
one  pint  of  sugar  fifteen  minutes.  Add 
a  teaspoonf ul  of  softened  gelatine ; 
and,  when  cold,  strain  over  one  pint 
of  strawberry  juice  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Freeze  in  the  usual  manner. 
For  orange  sherbet  use  a  pint  of 
orange  juice  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
For  lemon  sherbet,  one  cup  of  lemon 
juice. 

Query  451. —  Mrs.  G.,  Fitchburg: 
"  Recipe  for  '  Election  Cake,'  a  '  raised  ' 
loaf  cake,  yellow  in  color  and  containing 
fruit  and  wine." 

Old  Hartford  Election  Cake  (100 
Years  Old) 

Rub  two  pounds  of  butter  into  five 
pounds  of  flour.  Add  one  pound  of 
sugar,  then  three  gills  of  distillery 
yeast,  one  pint  of  milk,  four  eggs  well 
beaten,  a  gill  (half  a  cup)  of  wine,  and 
another  pint  of  milk.  Beat  well,  and 
let  stand  to  rise  all  night.  In  the 
morning  add  a  gill  of  brandy,  another 
pound  of  sugar,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
nutmegs.  Let  rise  until  very  light, 
then  put  into  the  pans  alternately  with 
a  sprinkling  of  a  pound,  each,  of  cur- 
rants and  seeded  raisins.  A  pound  of 
citron,  cut  fine,  may  also  be  added. 
Use  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast  or 
one  dry  yeast  cake,  softened  in  a  cup 
of  lukewarm  water,  when  distillery 
yeast  is  not  procurable. 


Query  452. —  E.  P.,  Columbus,  Ohio: 
Kindly  give  recipes  for  cranberry  granite 


and  Baltimore  samp  with  cream  sauce. 
Is  samp  what  Ohioans  call  grits  or  fine 
hominy  ?  Also  give  recipe  for  '  Coupe 
Jacques,'  as  served  in  fashionable  restau- 
rants in  New  York."' 

Cranberry  Granite 
Boil  one  quart  of  cranberries  in 
three  cups  of  water  five  or  six  minutes. 
Then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  press- 
ing out  the  pulp.  Add  one  pint  of 
sugar,  stirring  until  dissolved,  and, 
when  cold,  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Freeze  to  a  mush. 

Baltimore  Samp  with  Cream 
Sauce 

Baltimore  samp  is  made  of  white 
corn.  It  is  very  much  coarser  than 
grits  or  fine  hominy.  Cover  the  samp 
with  boiling  water,  let  boil  five  or 
six  minutes,  then  drain  and  rinse. 
Cover  again  with  boiling  water,  and 
let  cook  on  the  back  of  the  range  all 
day,  adding  boiling  water  as  needed, 
and  shaking  the  dish  occasionally 
to  prevent  scorching.  When  nearly 
cooked,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  for 
each  quart  of  samp.  To  serve  as  a 
vegetable,  reheat  a  cup  of  the  samp 
in  a  cup  of  hot  white  sauce  made  of 
cream  or  rich  milk.  Add  also  a  scant 
tablespoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 

Coupe  Jacques  (Ranhofer) 

Lay  in  a  vessel  one  peeled  banana, 
cut  in  half-inch  squares,  one  well- 
peeled  orange,  having  the  meats  lying 
between  the  intersections  removed 
with  a  knife  and  all  the  seeds  sup- 
pressed, a  slice  of  pineapple  half  an 
inch  thick,  cut  in  dice,  four  ounces  of 
grapes,  two  ounces  of  strawberries  or 
raspberries,  four  ounces  of  cherries, 
pears,  or  peaches,  half  a  gill  of  kirsch 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


or  maraschino,  and  a  little  powdered 
sugar.  Mingle  all  together,  and  keep 
cold  in  the  can  of  a  freezer,  with  ice 
packed  around.  To  serve,  fill  wide 
champagne  cups  with  this  7?iace(ioi?ie, 
cover  the  ^naddoine  with  fruit  sherbet 
(orange,  lemon,  or  pineapple)  flavored 
to  taste  with  kirsch  or  maraschino. 


Query  453. —  Miss  H.  A.  A.,  Oshkosh, 
Wis. :  "  Recipes  for  pork  cake  and  sweet 
citron  pickles." 

Citron  Sweet  Pickles 
Cut  the  citron  in  slices,  and.  then 
in  smaller  pieces,  removing  the  skins 
and  seeds.  Let  stand  over  night  in 
salt  and  water.  Drain  and  cook  until 
nearly  tender  in  fresh  water.  Drain 
again,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  syrup 
made  of  four  pounds  of  sugar  and  one 
pint  of  vinegar  to  nine  pounds  of 
fruit.  Add  a  few  sticks  of  cinnamon, 
a  tablespoonful  of  cloves,  and  a  blade 
or  two  of  mace.  Let  cook  until  trans- 
parent and  tender.  Store  in  jars. 
Reduce  the  syrup,  if  needed,  before 
pouring  it  over  the  citron. 


Query  454. —  Mrs.  B.  A.  W.,  Worces- 
ter, Mass. :  "  Reliable  recipe  for  whole 
wheat  bread." 

Whole  Wheat  Bread 
To  a  pint  of  scalded  and  cooled 
milk,  or  boiled  water,  or  half  and  half 
of  each,  add  from  one-third  to  one 
whole  cake  of  compressed  yeast, 
softened  in  half  a  cup  of  lukewarm 
liquid,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  five  cups  of 
entire  wheat  flour,  and  one  cup  of 
white  flour.  Mix  with  a  knife,  and 
add  white  flour,  little  by  little,  until 
the  dough  is  of  a  consistency  to  knead. 
(It  should  be  a  pretty  firm  dough. 
There    is    danger   of   using   too    little 


rather  than  too  much  flour.)  Knead 
about  fifteen  minutes,  and  set  aside 
until  light.  Where  compressed  yeast 
is  not  available,  use  a  cake  of  dry 
yeast,  many  brands  of  which  are  upon 
the  market.  For  full  particulars  of 
bread-making,  consult  the  last  two 
issues  of  this  magazine. 


Query  455. —  Mrs.  A.  F.  B.,  Medford, 
Mass. :  "  Kindly  give  a  recipe  for  bread 
made  with  water,  also  for  raised  Graham 
biscuit." 

Water  Bread 
Soften  a  cake  of  yeast  in  half  a  cup 
of  lukewarm  water,  then  stir  into  it 
enough  flour  to  make  a  very  stiff 
dough  (nearly  two  cups).  Knead 
thoroughly,  shaping  into  a  ball.  Make 
two  cuts  on  the  top  about  one-fourth 
an  inch  deep,  then  place  the  paste 
in  a  small  saucepan  of  tepid  water,  the 
cut  side  up.  In  a  few  minutes  it  will 
begin  to  swell  and  float  on  the  top  of 
the  water.  When  quite  light,  remove 
with  a  skimmer  to  a  bowl  containing 
half  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water  and  a 
scant  half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  dough  stiff 
enough  to  knead, —  nearly  two  cups, — 
and  let  stand  in  a  temperature  of  about 
68  degrees  Fahrenheit  until  light. 
Then  shape  into  a  loaf,  and,  when  again 
light,  bake. 

Water  Bread  No.  1 
A  recipe  for  bread  is  given  on  page 
201,  February-March  number.  Under 
"  Proportions  of  the  Ingredients  "  sub- 
stitute the  word  ''water"  for  the  word 
"  liquid,"  and  proceed. 

Raised  Graham  Biscuit 
Soften  one-fourth  to  one  whole  cake 
of  yeast  (according   to   the    time    that 


Queries  and  Answers 


2«I 


can  be  given  to  the  rising)  in  half  a 
cup  of  lukewarm  water.  Add  to  two 
cups  of  lukewarm  water.  Stir  in  white 
flour  to  make  a  sponge  (about  three 
cups).  When  light,  add  one-fourth  a 
cup  of  softened  butter,  one-third  a  cup 
of  molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
sifted  Graham  flour  to  knead,  about 
four  cups.  Knead  at  least  fifteen 
minutes, —  a  longer  time  is  better.  Let 
rise,  and  shape  into  biscuit.  When 
again  light,  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Brush 
over  the  tops  of  the  biscuit  with  sugar 
melted  in  milk  before  putting  into  the 
oven. 

Query  456. —  G.  U. :  "  Recipes  for 
oyster  gumbo,  mock  turtle,  and  ox-tail 
soups.  What  publication  is  there  contain- 
ing recipes  for  French,  German,  and 
Italian  cooking? " 

Oyster  Gumbo  Soup 

Cook  one-fourth  a  pound  of  salt 
pork,  cut  in  bits,  one-third  a  cup  of 
shallots,  or  a  small  onion,  chopped, 
until  of  a  delicate  brown  color.  Add 
one-third  a  cup  of  flour,  and,  when 
well  blended  with  the  fat,  add  one 
quart  of  water,  one  quart  of  veal 
broth,  a  green  pepper  cut  small,  two 
or  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  blades 
of  mace,  and  two  stalks  of  celery.  Let 
simmer  gently  forty  minutes,  then  add 
three  dozen  oysters  and  the  strained 
liquor.  When  the  oysters  look  plump 
and  the  soup  is  at  the  boiling-point, 
remove  the  celery,  mace,  and  parsley, 
which  should  have  been  tied  together, 
and  skim  thoroughly.  Then  sprinkle 
slowly  into  the  soup  half  a  cup  of 
gumbo  powder,  stirring  constantly; 
add  also  two  teaspoonfuls  or  more  of 
salt.  Pass  with  the  soup  a  dish  of 
plain  boiled  rice.  A  quart  of  fresh 
okra  pods  cut  in  pieces  may  be  sauted 
in    the    onion    and    then   cooked  until 


tender  in  the  broth  and  water,  and  the 
gumbo  powder  omitted. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup 
Brown  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
Cook  in  this  one-fourth  a  cup  of  flour, 
then  add  gradually  one  quart  of 
well-reduced  and  high-seasoned  stock 
made  of  a  calf's  head.  When  again 
boiling,  add  one  cup  of  tomato  puree, 
—  tomatoes  stewed  and  passed  through 
a  sieve.  Let  simmer  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  one  cup  of  head 
meat  cut  in  small  squares,  a  dozen  or 
more  egg  balls,  half  a  dozen  lemon 
slices  cut  as  thin  as  possible,  and 
sherry,  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Ox-tail  Soup 

Separate  an  ox-tail  into  pieces  at 
the  joints.  Saute  with  a  small  onion, 
sliced,  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fat 
from  the  top  of  a  dish  of  stock  or  fat 
from  salt  pork.  Add  a  quart  of  water 
or  light  stock  (trimmings  of  meat,  etc.), 
and  turn  the  whole  into  the  soup-kettle. 
Add  another  quart  of  liquid,  a  stalk 
of  celery,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  six 
peppercorns,  two  cloves,  and,  at  discre- 
tion, one-fourth  a  cup,  each,  of  turnip 
and  carrot  cubes.  Let  the  liquid 
come  to  the  boiling-point,  then  simmer 
four  or  five  hours  or  until  the  meat  is 
tender.  Remove  the  best  pieces  of 
the  ox-tail  to  serve  in  the  soup,  then 
strain,  remove  the  fat,  reheat,  and  pour 
over  the  pieces  in  the  tureen. 

Egg  Balls 
Pass  the  cooked  yolks  of  three  hard 
boiled  eggs  through  a  sieve.  Add  a 
few  grains  of  salt  and  pepper,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter,  and 
enough  of  the  raw  yolk  of  one  egg  to 
make  the  mixture  of  a  consistency  to 


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The  Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


handle.  Shape  in  small  balls,  roll  in 
white  of  egg,  then  in  flour,  and  saute 
in  butter  or  poach  in  hot  water  two  or 
three  minutes. 

Recipes  for  Foreign  Cooking 

Henriette  Davids's  "  Practical  Cook 
Book,"  published  in  English  from  the 
thirty-fifth  German  edition,  gives 
recipes  for  German  dishes.  "  Franco- 
American  Cookery  Book,"  by  Felix 
J.  De'liee,  is  a  very  good  book  to  con- 
sult for  French  dishes.  Francatelli's 
''  Modern  Cook "  gives  recipes  in 
French,  Italian,  and  German  cookery. 


Query  457. —  A.  H.,  Harlem,  N.Y. : 
"  What  cut  of  lamb  or  mutton  do  you  buy 
for  a  crown  roast?  Do  you  put  water  in 
the  pan  for  basting  such  a  roast,  and 
when  do  you  add  the  salt?  If  flour 
thrown  on  the  floor  of  the  oven  browns 
quickly  without  taking  fire,  is  the  heat 
right  for  baking  bread?  Do  beets  and 
corn  come  under  the  head  of  green  vege- 
tables ?  How  prepare  duck  salad?  How 
is  a  light  and  feathery  omelet  made  ?  " 

Crown  Roast  of  Lamb 
Cut  the  same  number  of  ribs  from 
both  sides  of  a  rack  of  mutton,  select- 
ing ribs  on  one  side  that  correspond 
to  those  on  the  other.  Cut  the  ribs 
apart  at  the  back  bone,  but  separate 
the  chops  no  farther.  Trim  the  bones 
as  for  French  chops,  removing  the 
skin  and  all  superfluous  fat.  Sew  the 
two  pieces  together  at  the  ends,  turn- 
ing the  bones  out  and  the  skin  side  in. 
If  necessary,  trim  the  rib  bones  to 
make  all  the  same  length.  Cover  the 
ends  of  the  bones  securely  with  strips 
of  salt  pork.  Rub  with  salt,  or  add 
the  salt  when  partly  cooked.  Set  in  a 
hot  oven  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then 
reduce  the  heat,  and,  if  necessary,  to 
keep  the  dripping  from  burning,  add 
hot  water.      Baste  with  the   dripping. 


and  cook  from  forty-five  to  sixty  min- 
utes, basting  often. 

Test  of  Heat  for  Baking  Bread 

Miss  Parloa  gives  the  following  test 
of  heat  necessary  for  the  baking  of 
bread  :  "  Have  an  oven  that  will  in 
five  minutes  turn  a  piece  of  paper  dark 
brow^n."  Oven  thermometers  (heat  in- 
dicators), costing  about  one  dollar,  are 
of  great  value  in  regulating  the  fire  for 
baking. 

Green  Vegetables 

The  term  "green  vegetables"  may 
be  used  in  several  w^ays.  Any  vege- 
tables that  are  fresh,  as  young  beets 
and  unripe  corn,  might  be  so  classed 
in  contradistinction  to  old  beets  and 
dry  corn.  The  term  might  also  have 
reference  to  the  color,  as  spinach,  let- 
tuce, beet-greens,  etc.,  all  are  green. 

Duck  Salad 

Cut  the  duck  into  thin  strips  or  into 
cubes.  Marinate  with  three  parts  of 
oil  to  two  of  orange  juice,  a  few  grains 
of  salt  and  paprika.  Drain,  and  mix 
with  half  the  quantity,  each,  of  orange 
carpels,  freed  from  seeds  and  skin,  and 
bits  of  celery.  Garnish  with  mayon- 
naise and  half-slices  of  orange  from 
which  the  skin  has  not  been  taken. 
Or  omit  the  oranges  and  mayonnaise. 
Use  lemon  juice  with  the  oil,  and  with 
the  celery  one-fourth  the  quantity  of 
olives,  stoned  and  cut  in  pieces.  Dress 
with  French  dressing.  Garnish  with 
pimolas. 

French  Dressing 

Mix  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
few  grains  of  paprika.  Stir  in  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  Then  add  very 
gradually  about  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  lemon  or  orange-juice. 


Queries  and  Answers 


283 


French  Omelet 
Use  more  yolks  than  whites  of  eggs. 
Kitchiner  says  no  art  can  prevent  an 
omelet  from  being  hard,  if  too  much  of 
the  white  be  left  in  it.  The  pan 
should  be  small  and  thin,  to  insure  a 
thick  omelet  and  quick  cooking.  For 
a  very  small  omelet  beat  two  whole 
eggs  and  the  yolks  of  two  more,  until  a 
full  spoonful  can  be  taken  up.  Add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
dash  of  pepper,  and,  when  well  mixed, 
turn  into  a  hot  omelet-pan  in  which 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter  has  been 
melted.  Set  on  a  hot  part  of  the 
range  a  few  seconds,  then  with  a  thin 
knife  or  spatula  separate  the  cooked 
portion  from  the  side  of  the  frying- 
pan,  and  shake  the  pan  back  and 
forth,  that  the  uncooked  part  may  run 
down  next  the  pan.  If  this  cannot  be 
done  by  shaking,  prick  the  omelet 
with  a  silver  fork  in  many  places,  as 
well  as  shake  the  pan.  When  creamy 
throughout,  begin  at  the  side  of  the 
pan  next  the  handle,  and  roll  the 
omelet,  letting  the  pan  rest  on  the 
hot  stove,  until  the  omelet  is  slightly 
browned.     Add  butter,  if  needed. 


Query  458.— Mrs.  J.  T.,  New  York 
City :  "  Recipes  for  a  very  nice  clear 
turtle  soup,  also  for  chicken  mousse. 
Specify  the  shape  of  mould  used  for  a 
mousse.  Why  do  pumpkin  pies  crack 
after  being  taken  from  the  oven  ?  Can  it 
be  avoided?  How  much  gelatine  in  a 
box  ?  When  measuring  from  a  pound  of 
loose  gelatine,  how  much  would  an  ounce 
be,  or  how  much  would  one  tablespoonful 
be?" 

Clear  Turtle  Soup 

A  quart  of  canned  turtle  will  make 
soup  for  eight  people.  If  the  turtle 
broth  be  clear,  add  two  quarts  of  clear 
beef  broth,  two  glasses  of  sherry  wine, 


a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  a  few  grains  of 
cayenne  pepper.  Let  boil  once,  then 
skim  out  the  parsley.  Add  the  turtle 
meat,  cut  in  small  squares.  Pass 
with  the  soup  slices  of  peeled  lemon 
on  a  plate.  If  the  soup  be  not  clear, 
clarify  with  the  shell  and  slightly 
beaten  white  of  one  or  two  eggs. 

Chicken  Mousse 
Bomb  moulds  are  generally  used  for 
mousse,  whether  it  be  hot  or  cold, 
large  or  individual.  These  differ  in 
shape  from  the  bomb  moulds  used  for 
bomb  glace.  A  cold  chicken  mousse 
was  given  in  the  October-November 
issue.  Vol.  III.  of  this  magazine,  under 
the  name  Mousse  de  Poulet.  This  was 
moulded  in  a  brick  mould,  as  shown  by 
the  half-tone  given  in  connection  wdth 
the  recipe.  We  give  this  time  a  recipe 
for  a  hot  dish. 

Little  Mousses  of  Chicken 

Pound  the  raw  breast  of  a  chicken, 
freed  from  bone  and  skin,  in  a  mortar 
until  smooth,  then  press  through  a  wire 
sieve.  To  one-fourth  a  pound  of  pulp 
(half  a  cup)  add  half  a  cup  of  thick  Be- 
chamel sauce  (liquid,  half  chicken  stock 
and  half  cream),  four  raw  yolks  of  ^g%^ 
and  one-fourth  a  cup  of  thick  cream. 
Mix  thoroughly,  then  add  the  whites  of 
four  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  dry, 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Butter 
some  little  bomb  moulds,  decorate  them 
with  bits  of  truffle,  hard-boiled  white  of 
^gg,  shredded  cucumber  pickles,  chil- 
lies, or  shredded  pimentos.  Use  one  or 
more  of  these.  Nearly  fill  the  moulds 
with  the  preparation.  Set  them  into 
timbale  moulds,  so  that  they  may  stand 
level,  then  into  a  baking-dish,  and  sur- 
round with  boiling  water.  Poach  about 
twenty  minutes  or  until  the  centres  are 


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The   Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine 


firm.     Serve    at    luncheon,    or    as    an 
entre'e  with  a  Bechamel  sauce. 

Little  Mousses  of  Chicken  No.  2 
Pound  the  white  of  one  egg  with 
enough  raw  breast  of  chicken  to  make 
half  a  cup ;  press  through  a  sieve,  and 
add  gradually  half  a  cup  of  double 
cream.  Then  beat  in  three-fourths  a 
cup  of  cooked  white  chicken  meat 
chopped  and  passed  through  a  sieve, 
a  second  white  of  egg,  and  half  a  cup 
of  double  cream,  each  beaten  stiff. 
Finish  as  in  preceding  recipe. 

Cracking  of  Pumpkin  Pies 

We  are  unable  to  state  definitely  why 
pumpkin  pies  crack  after  being  removed 
from  the  oven,  but  think  it  may  be  be- 
cause too  much  liquid  has  been  used 
in  the  filling.  Flour,  cracker  crumbs, 
and  eggs  are  needed  with  the  pumpkin. 
Probably  the  thickening  properties  of 
the  pumpkin  itself  varies. 

Quantity  of  Gelatine  in  Box,  etc. 
There  are  two  ounces  of  gelatine  in 
most  of  the  packages  on  the  market. 
This  quantity  in  winter  will  make  two 
quarts  of  jelly  that  will  stand  in  shape 
when  moulded.  In  summer  cut  down 
the  quantity  of  liquid  at  least  half  a 
cup.  Tablespoons  vary  in  size.  Some 
brands  of  gelatine  are  in  shreds,  others 
are  pulverized  or  granulated.  The  best 
way  would  be  to  use  a  cup.  First 
measure  out  half  the  gelatine,  then  one- 
fourth.  Then  find  out  how  many  table- 
spoonfuls  in  the  fourth  of  the  pound,  or 
four  ounces.  At  the  factories  it  is  put 
up  by  weight. 

Query  459. —  Mrs.  A.  S.,  Dedham, 
Mass. :  "  Two  or  three  recipes  for  candies 
made  with  maple  sugar." 


Maple  Sugar  and  Walnut  Creams 
Melt  one  pound  of  maple  sugar, 
grated  or  broken  into  bits,  in  half  a  cup 
of  boiling  water.  Cook  without  stirring 
till  the  *'  soft-ball "  stage  is  reached, 
then  stir  until  thick  enough  to  drop 
from  a  spoon.  Drop  in  well-shaped 
rounds  as  quickly  as  possible.  Deco-, 
rate  each  round  with  a  walnut  meat  on 
top. 

Maple  Fondant 

Melt  two  pounds  of  maple  sugar, 
grated  or  broken  into  bits,  in  a  cup  of 
boiling  water.  Boil  without  stirring  to 
the  soft-ball  stage.  Wash  down  the 
crystals  that  form  on  the  sides  of  the 
pan  with  a  brush  dipped  in  hot  water, 
and  add,  when  about  half  cooked,  one- 
fourth  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Turn  the  mass  on  to  an  oiled  marble 
slab  or  a  platter,  and  let  stand  until 
a  dent  is  left  on  the  surface  when  the 
mass  is  pressed  with  the  finger.  Now 
work  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  paddle 
till  the  mass  becomes  a  soft,  smooth, 
creamy  paste.  Mould  as  you  would 
bread  dough  a  few  seconds,  then  pack 
solidly  in  a  glass  or  earthen  jar.  Cover 
closely  with  oiled  paper,  and  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours  or  longer  before 
using. 

Fondant  Candies 
Work  a  little  of  the  fondant  on  a 
slab  or  plate,  then  form  into  balls,  or 
thick  lozenge  shapes,  with  a  candied 
cherry,  or  bit  of  fruit,  an  almond,  pis- 
tachio, or  other  nut  in  the  centre.  Let 
dry  on  paraffine  paper,  then  dip  into 
white  fondant  melted  with  a  few  drops 
of  hot  water  over  a  saucepan  of  hot 
water.  Stir  the  fondant  while  melting 
and  before  dipping  each  piece  of  candy. 
Thin  with  hot  water  as  needed. 


Queries  and  Answers 


285 


Sucre  de  la  Creme  (Miss  Locke) 
Boil  three  cups  of  maple  syrup,  or 
two  cups  of  maple  sugar,  with  one  cup 
of  sweet  cream,  or  half  a  cup  of  washed 
butter,  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  a 
little,  when  tested  by  stirring,  becomes 
creamy.  At  this  stage  remove  at  once 
from  the  fire,  stir  briskly,  add  half  a 
pound  of  pecan-nut  meats,  one  cup 
after  they  are  shelled,  and  turn  into 
a  pan  lined  with  paraffine  paper.  Cut 
into  squares  or  oblongs  as  soon  as  it 
is  cool ;  />.,  before  it  hardens  too  much. 


Query  460.— Mrs.  G.  M.  P.,  Pough- 
keepsie,  N.Y. :  "  Kindly  tell  me  how  to 
make  parched  corn,  not  popped  corn." 

Parched  Corn 
Shake  grains  of  dried  sweet  corn  in 
a  popper  over  bed  of  coals  or  hot  stove 
lid  until  they  look  full  and  plump. 
They  will  not  burst,  as  do  the  kernels 
of  pop  corn  ;  but  often  one  side  will 
puff  out  like  a  blister. 


Query  461. — Mrs.  F.  E.  H.,  Redlands, 
Cal. :  "  Recipes  for  creamed  corned  beef, 
kornlet  omelet,  baked  beans  and  tomato 
salad." 

Creamed  Corn  Beef 
Scald  one  pint  of  milk  with  slice  of 
onion  and  stalk  of  celery.  Stir  into  this 
one-fourth  a  cup  each  of  butter  and 
flour  creamed  together,  let  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  until  thickened  and 
then  occasionally.  Add  a  dash  of  pa- 
prika, and  strain  over  one  pint  of  cold 
cooked  corned  beef  cut  in  cubes.  Turn 
into  pudding-dish,  and  cover  with  half 
a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs  mixed  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 


Set  into  the  oven  to  reheat  and  brown 
the  crumbs. 

Kornlet  Omelet 

Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Cook  in  this  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  one-fourth  a  tablespoonful  each 
of  salt  and  pepper,  then  add  gradually 
half  a  cup  of  kornlet.  When  the  mixt- 
ure boils,  remove  from  the  fire  and 
stir  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten 
until  thick,  then  fold  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  beaten  dry.  Turn  into  an 
omelet  pan,  in  which  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  butter  have  been  melted. 
Spread  evenly  in  the  pan,  and  let  cook 
until  "  set "  on  the  bottom,  then  put 
into  the  oven.  When  a  knife  cut  down 
into  the  omelet  comes  out  clean,  score 
across  the  top  at  right  angles  to  the 
handle  of  the  pan.  Fold,  and  turn  on 
to  a  heated  receptacle. 

Baked  Beans  and  Tomato  Salad 
Stir  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
very  gradually  into  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  oil  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Add 
salt,  if  the  beans  have  not  been  sea- 
soned. The  oil  and  vinegar  will  not 
unite  perfectly.  Pour  gradually  over  a 
pint  of  cold  baked  beans  such  portion 
of  the  dressing  as  they  will  absorb, 
toss  together,  and  arrange  on  a  serving- 
dish.  Make  a  border  of  sliced  toma- 
toes around  beans,  and  over  these  pour 
the  rest  of  the  dressing.  Pieces  of 
whole  canned  tomatoes  or  cubes  of 
tomato  jelly  may  take  the  place  of  the 
fresh  tomato.  If  much  tomato  be  used, 
mix  more  dressing.  A  few  drops  of 
onion  juice  in  the  dressing  improves 
this  salad  for  many. 


ADDRESS    communications   for  this  department  to  Janet  M.  Hill,  Editor  of  the  Boston 
Cooking-School  Magazine,  372  Boylston  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


The  spring  programme  for  the  pub- 
lic demonstrations  at  the  Boston  Cook- 
ing School  is  as  follows  :  — 

February  /j  and  ij. 
A  Winter  Breakfast. 

February  20,  Morni7ig  and  Evening. 
Pastry  Lesson. 

February  bj  and  March  i. 
A  Few  Lenten  Dishes. 

March  6  and  8. 
Some  Creole  Recipes. 

March  ij  and  ij. 
Soups  and  Soup  Garnishings. 

March  20  and  22. 
Entrees. 

March  2"/  and  2g. 
Fancy  Breads. 

April  J,  Morning  and  Evening. 
Suggestions   for  an   Easter   Luncheon. 

April  10  and  12. 
^  Dinner  for  8  for  ^8. 

April  77,  Morning  and  Eveiiing. 
A  Fish  Supper. 

April  24  and  26. 
Cake  and  Frosting. 

May  I  and ^. 
Salads  and  Sandwiches. 


Miss  Sophie  B.  Hurd,  class  of  '99 
Boston  Cooking  School,  is   giving  in- 


struction   to     classes    of    cookery    at 
Oneida,  N.Y.    _____ 

At  the  Young  Women's  Christian 
Association,  Worcester,  Mass.,  the 
cooking  classes  lead  in  numbers,  sixty- 
three  pupils  being  enrolled  in  this 
department.  There  are  five  day 
classes  and  four  evening  classes. 
The  courses  for  cooks  on  Thursday 
and  Friday  afternoons  are  proving 
very  satisfactory.  In  most  cases  the 
mistresses  pay  the  tuition,  and  they  all 
agree  that  it  is  economy ;  for  the  new 
dishes  are  always  sure  to  come  out 
right  and  to  be  served  in  the  most  ap- 
proved fashion.  Miss  Buckingham 
will  begin  a  course  of  demonstration 
lectures  about  the  middle  of  February. 


Rely  upon 

^.  Platfs  Chlorides 

as  your  household 
disinfectant. 

An  odorless,  colorless  liquid ; 
powerful,  safe,  and  cheap. 

Destroys  disease  germs  and 
noxious  gases,  thus  preventing 
sickness.  Sold  in  quart  bottles 
only,  by  druggists  and  high-class 
grocers.  Prepared  only  by  Henry 
B.  Piatt,  Piatt  Street,  New  York. 


^'^^^ 


News  and  Notes 


287 


From  a  daily  paper  published  in 
Keokuk,  la.,  we  clip  the  following  rela- 
tive to  a  series  of  cooking  lessons  given 
by  Mrs.  Helen  Armstrong,  of  Chi- 
cago :  — 

"  The  cooking  school,  under  the  au- 
spices of  the  home  department  of  the 
Women's  Club,  closed  yesterday  after- 
noon after  a  very  successful  week. 
Talks  with  many  of  the  women  attend- 
ing the  school  disclosed  a  unanimity  of 
opinion  that,  for  practical  benefit,  the 
lessons  given  could  hardly  be  sur- 
passed. The  idea  a  week  ago  was  that 
the  school  would  probably  be  nothing 
more  than  some  selected  recipes 
worked  out,  but  the  developments  were 
far  from  this  system.  Each  day  there 
was  a  lecture  that  was  really  profound, 
although  lucid,  upon  the  science  and 
art  of  selecting  and  cooking  foods,  and 
general  household  economics.  These 
lectures  were  decidedly  educational,  in 
the  larger  sense,  those  who  attended 
say,  and  threw  much  new  light  upon 
household  work  and  worry,  which  trans- 
formed it  into  a  pleasure.  '  Mrs.  Arm- 
strong does  an  immense  amount  for  us 
in  this,  that  she  causes  us  to  put  joy 
into  our  work,'  said  one  woman  last 
week.  Those  who  attended  here  were 
largely  the  best  housekeepers  in  town, 
some  who  do  their  own  work  and  some 
who  have  many  servants.  Mrs.  Arm- 
strong goes  to  DeKalb  this  week." 


The  Syracuse  Model  Home  School 
of  Household  Economics  is  sending 
out  a  very  neatly  gotten  up  folder  in 
reference  to  their  classes  for  the  year. 
Connected  with  the  school  is  a  Model 
Home  Lunch  Room,  where  home-made 
bread,  rolls,  hot  soups,  cold  meats,  eggs, 
sandwiches,  salads,  coffee,  tea,  etc.,  are 
served,  or  delivered  to  order. 


Cured  by  Food 

Nature's  Way  to  Get  Well  and  Keep  Well 

People  who  do  not  know  how  to 
select  the  right  kind  of  food  to  sustain 
them  become  ill,  and  some  sort  of  dis- 
ease will  show  forth.  It  is  worth  one's 
while  to  know  of  these  facts. 

A  young  woman  at  Grindstone  City, 
Mich.,  Mrs.  A.  P.  Sage,  began  to  run 
down  while  she  was  at  school.  She 
finally  broke  down  completely,  and  was 
taken  seriously  ill  with  a  number 
of  different  troubles.  The  stomach 
trouble  was  the  most  serious  one. 
Her  heart  also  troubled  her,  so  she 
had  to  sit  up  as  high  in  bed  as  pos- 
sible. This  was  caused,  however,  by 
her  stomach. 

She  says  :  "In  the  morning  I  would 
be  so  weak  I  could  hardly  move.  I 
was  kept  on  the  simplest  foods,  prin- 
cipally liquids.  After  some  months  I 
seemed  to  get  a  little  better.  Then  I 
got  worse,  so  that  I  finally  was  brought 
to  the  point  of  death  from  non-assimi- 
lation of  food." 

At  this  time  a  lady  recommended 
Grape-nuts  Food.  She  says  :  "  Little 
did  I  think  what  a  help  it  was  to  be- 
come to  me.  I  became  greatly  inter- 
ested when  I  read  the  description  on 
the  box,  that  the  food  was  pre-digested 
and  in  the  shape  of  grape-sugar. 

"  I  had  been  unable  to  digest  any- 
thing starchy  at  all ;  but  I  began  on 
Grape-nuts,  and  it  was  so  grateful  to 
the  taste,  and  soothed  my  stomach  so 
well,  that  I  have  been  using  it  ever 
since,  and  have  never  grown  tired  of  it. 

"  My  stomach  trouble  is  entirely 
gone.  I  am  much  stronger  now,  and 
can  ride  a  bicycle  and  take  long  walks, 
and  have  gained  very  considerably  in 
weight,  all  of  which  I  owe  to  Grape- 
nuts  Food." 


288 


The  Boston  Cooking-School   Magazine 


The  Denver  Gas  and  Electric  Com- 
pany of  Denver,  Col.,  have  engaged 
Miss  Anna  Virginia  Miller,  class  of 
'98,  Boston  Cooking  School,  as  gas 
range  and  cooking  expert.  Miss  Mil- 
ler is  now  giving  a  course  of  weekly 
lectures  to  demonstrate  the  econom- 
ical use  of  fuel  gas  as  a  cooking 
medium.  No  pains  are  spared  by  the 
company  to  assist  their  patrons  to 
bring  about  the  best  results  in  every 
line  of  up-to-date  cookery. 


help  happiness  more  than  better  food 
and    finer    clothing. —  Saturday   Eve?i- 


ing  Post, 


"  Extravagance    and    plenty  cannot 
long  dwell  in  the  same  house." 


Josh  Billings's  philosophy :  "  We 
should  be  keerful  how  we  encurridge 
luxuries.  It  is  but  a  step  forard  from 
hoe  caik  to  plum  puddin',  but  it's  a 
mile  and  a  half  by  the  nearest  road 
when  we  have  to  go  back  again." 


Those  who  have  been  paying  large 
coal  bills  all  through  the  winter,  and 
who  have  to  bear  the  cost  of  every 
miners'  strike,  whichever  side  wins 
or  loses,  wall  be  interested  in  knowing 
that  the  first  great  revolution  pre- 
dicted for  the  present  century  is  that 
of  the  direct  production  of  electricity 
from  coal.  In  that  event  both  heat 
and  light  will  be  vastly  cheapened. 
Thus  people  will  be  enabled  to  live 
better  and  to  wear  finer  clothes. 
Instead  of  shovelling  all  their  income 
into  the  furnace  and  the  range  or  hav- 
ing it  race  through  the  gas  meter, 
they  can  spend  more  of  it  upon  them- 
selves. 

The  civilization  that  makes  the 
individual  happier,  is  the  kind  that 
is  wanted ;  and,  certainly,  nothing  can 


It  Came  Back 

The  Doctor's   Wife  found  her    Complexion 
Again 

Coffee  is  no  respecter  of  persons 
when  it  comes  to  the  poisonous  effects 
thereof.  A  prominent  physician's  wife 
of  Monticello,  Ind.,  says  that  coffee 
treated  her  very  badly,  indeed,  giving 
her  a  serious  and  painful  stomach 
trouble  and  a  wretched,  muddy  com- 
plexion. 

Her  husband  is  a  physician  of  the 
regular  school,  and  opposed  to  both 
tea  and  coffee.  So  he  induced  her  to 
leave  them  off,  and  take  on  Postum 
Food  Co'ffee. 

The  stomach  trouble  disappeared  al- 
most like  magic,  and  gradually  her 
complexion  cleared  up.  Now  she  is  in 
excellent  condition  throughout. 

There  are  thousands  of  highly  or- 
ganized people  who  are  made  sick  in 
a  variety  of  different  ways  by  the  use 
of  coffee,  and  most  of  these  people  do 
not  suspect  the  cause  of  their  trouble. 
They  think  that  others  can  drink  coffee 
and  are  well,  and  they  can.  But  about 
one  person  out  of  every  three  is  more  or 
less  poisoned  by  coffee,  and  this  can 
be  proved  by  leaving  off  coffee  and 
taking  Postum  Food  Coffee.  In  nearly 
every  case  the  disorder  will  be  greatly 
relieved  or  entirely  disappear.  It  is  easy 
enough  to  make  a  trial,  and  see  whether 
coffee  is  a  poison  to  you  or  not. 

The  name  of  the  doctor's  wife  can 
be  given  upon  application  to  the  Postum 
Cereal  Company,  Limited,  at  Battle 
Creek,  Mich. 


food  products 


^Tt^Cocca 


At  Luncheon  Van  Houten^s  Cocoa  is  The  Best* 

One  tea  spoonful  is  sufficient  to  make  a  delicious  cup,  sugar  and 
cream  being  added  to  taste.  When  ready  compare  it  with  a  cup  of  any 
other  brand,  and  you  will  at  once  agree  that  for  delicacy  of  flavor,  and  en- 
ticing aroma,  Van  Houten's  is  unequalled.  The  superfluous  fat  of  the 
cocoa-bean  is  removed  by  Van  Houten's  special  (Patented)  process,  so  that 
the  most  bilious  subject  'can  take  the  beverage  without  the  least  fear  of  it 
irritating  the  liver.  A  i-lb  tin  is  sufficient  for  120  cups,  so  it  is  not  dear, 
because  a  little  goes  a  long  way. 

Sold  at  the  Grocery  Stores*     Don't  forget  to  order  it  I 


Copyright  1901  by  Lyman  D.  Morse  Adv'g  Ag'cy  for  the  Proprietors, 

When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 


Book   Reviews 


Cooking  for  the  Diabetic.  Bv 
W.  H.  c^'  Mrs.  Poole.  Cloth.  Price 
$i.oo.  New  York:  Longmans, 
Green  &  Co. 

A  restricted  diet,  especially  in  case 
of  children,  is  an  affliction  in  itself. 
To  meet  the  requirements  here  taxes 
the  art  of  the  most  skilled  cook.  As 
a  means  to  diminish  the  irksomeness 
imposed  upon  a  pitiable  class  of  suf- 
ferers in  the  matter  of  food,  this  book 
was  prepared. 

It  contains  in  brief  the  part  of  a 
normal  diet  which  the  diabetic  patient 
may  not  eat,  and  what  he  may  eat, 
also  recipes  for  made  dishes,  en- 
tre'es,  etc.,  which  may  safely  appear 
on  the  patient's  table.  These  are 
grouped  under  the  following  heads : 
Specialties,  Breakfast,  Soups  and 
Sauces,  Entrees  or  Made  Dishes,  Sa- 
vories, Puddings,  Sweets,  etc.,  and 
Dressed  Vegetables.  Dr.  Pavy,  emi- 
nent in  his  profession,  gives  prefatory 
sanction  to  the  effort  of  the  writers. 

Undoubtedly,  the  little  volume  will 
prove  a  friend  in  time  of  need,  a  benef- 
icent guide  to  those  who  are  engaged 
in  sharp  contact  with  the  most  baffling 
test  of  disorders. 

The  Golden  Age  Cook  Book.  By 
Henrietta  Latham  Dwight.  New 
York:  The  Alliance  Publishing 
Company. 

To  all  who  are  striving  to  follow  the 
Golden  Rule,  "  To  do  unto  others  as 
they  would  have  others  do  unto  them," 
and  thus  express  in  their  every-day 
life  the  Christ-ideal,  written  within 
in  their  own  souls,  this  book  is  in- 
scribed by  the  author. 

It  contains  a  preface,  or  raison  d'etre, 
comparative  tables  of  vegetable  and 
animal  foods,  and  a  large  and  choice 
collection  of  recipes  for  vegetarian 
dishes.  It  is  a  book,  just  as  it  claims 
to  be,  for  those  who  are  inclined  to 
adopt  a  *' bloodless  diet."     The  work 


is  sensibly  and  faithfully  done,  and 
shows  pretty  plainly  how  "  all  that  is 
necessary  to  the  human  body  can  be 
supplied  by  the  vegetable  kingdom." 
It  may  be  noted  that  eggs,  milk,  but- 
ter, and  cheese  are  used  in  the 
recipes. 

Elements  of  the  Theory  and  Prac- 
tice of  Cookery.  By  Mary  E. 
Williams  and  Katharine  R.  Fisher. 
Cloth.  Price  $i.oo.  New  York : 
The  Macmillan  Company. 

The  subject  is  treated  in  a  direct, 
comprehensive,  and  scientific  manner. 
From  the  kitchen  fire  to  the  prepara- 
tion of  special  diets  for  the  sick,  no 
important  topic  is  neglected ;  and  all 
are  presented  in  accordance  with  the 
latest  authorities  and  best  approved 
methods.  As  far  as  we  are  aware, 
no  better  effort  in  this  direction  has 
been  made  up  to  this  present  time. 

The  book  has  significance.  There 
is  a  growing  demand  for  the  school 
text-book  on  household  science.  It 
supplies  a  want.  And,  certainly,  when 
the  subject  of  cookery  has  been  intro- 
duced and  taught  universally  and 
systematically  in  our  public  schools, 
people,  in  general,  if  no  better  fed,  will 
be  more  hygienically  and  reasonably 
fed,  and  the  gain  to  health,  comfort, 
and  longevity,  will  be  enormous. 

"The  day  is  past  for  the  study  of 
any  science  as  an  accomplishment." 
Upon  the  better  preparation  of  home- 
makers  for  their  duties  depends  the 
hope  of  improvement  in  household  con- 
cerns. Only  the  smallest  beginning 
of  imparting  theoretical  and  practical 
instruction  in  the  most  important 
branch  of  a  woman's  education  has 
yet  been  made.  The  possibilities 
opened  up  by  the  wider  use  of  text- 
books, and  kindred  works,  like  this, 
are  grand  indeed. 

The  plan,  method,  illustrations,  all 
are  excellent,  and  in  harmony  with  the 
scope  and  importance  of  the  subject. 


IMiscellancoue 


Tea 
Coffee 


Sign  of  Big  T  Kettle 

FORMOSA  OOLONG; 

ENGLISH  BREAKFAST; 
SOUCHONG;    JAPAN; 

GUNPOWDER;  HYSON; 
INDIA  and  CEYLON  TEAS. 

35c.,  40c.,  50c.,  60c.,  75c.,  90c.,  $1.00,  $1.25. 

AFTERNOON  TEA,  FLOWERY  PEKOE,  $i  .50 

Describe  what  you  want,  and  send  for  free  samples. 
Out  of  our  immense  stock  there  is  just  the  Tea  YOU  want. 
When  you  find  it,  we  can  always  give  the  same  flavor.  We 
will  gladly  furnish  samples,  if  you  will  try  them.  Your  time 
against  our  samples. 

Greatest  Variety  and  Finest  Stock  of  Teas 
and  Coffees  in  the  United  States. 

Coffee,  I2C.  to  40c.  Tea,  35c.  to  $1.50 

Free  City  and  Suburban  Delivery. 

Oriental    Tea    Company, 

87  Court  Street,  Boston. 


Like  a  magic  touch 
Lustre  the  greatest 
Labor  the  least 

ELECTRq 

^         SILVER  POLISH  g 

Silicon 

Never  scratching 
Never  wearing 
Never  equalled 

Trial  quantity  for  the  asking.    Box,  post-paid,  IScts.in 

stamps.   It's  5old  Everywhere. 

Our  Plate  Cleaning  Cabinet,  an  oak  case 
7x4  in.,  containing  i  Box  Electro-Silicon, 
I  cake  E.  S.  Silver  Soap,  Plate  Brush  and 
Chamois,  compartment  for  each,  is  a  mod- 
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Delivered  free  to  any  address  in  the  U.  S. 
on  receipt  of  75  cts.  stamps  or  money 
order.     Send  for  descriptive    circular. 

The  Electro  Silicon  Co.,  30  Cliff  Street,  New  York. 


The  HUB 
LINE  of 
RANGES 

Speak  for  Themselves 
in  Thousands  of  Homes 

The  Hub  Ranges  are  used 
in  the  New  York,  Boston, 
Providence,  Hartford, 
Worcester,  and  many  other 
Cooking-schools. 

Is  Stronger  Endorsement 

Possible  ? 

Smith  ^  Anthony  Co.,  Makers  Hub  Ranges  and  Heaters 
Nos.  48-54  UNION  STREET,  BOSTON 

Wben  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 

xi 


From  Our  Exchanges 


Little  folks  themselves,  if  brought 
up  on  plain,  wholesome  foods,  will  be 
their  own  best  guides  as  to  their  bills 
of  fare.  A  child  that  is  well  is  hungry 
at  the  proper  time  ;  and,  if  he  refuses 
food,  there  is  a  reason  for  it. 

Eating  between  meals  is  a  frequent 
cause  for  lack  of  appetite  at  meal  time, 
and  the  producer  of  many  indisposi- 
tions. Nothing  is  more  important  than 
that  meals  should  be  regular.  Dainties 
in  the  way  of  fruit,  candy,  and  nuts 
should  be  eaten  then,  and  not  at  inter- 
vals through  the  day.  In  this,  as  well 
as  in  many  other  things,  the  victim  to 
over-indulgence  and  indiscriminate 
feeding  is  literally  "  killed  by  kind- 
ness." A  hungry  child  will  eat  bread 
and  butter,  and  this  alone  should  be 
offered  when  there  is  a  plea  before  the 
regular  meal  for   "  something  to  eat." 

Once  regular  habits  are  gained,  there 
will  be  no  warfare,  and  little  thought 
given  to  the  subject  of  eating.  Many 
a  "  wilful  disposition,"  "  stubborn 
trait,"  and  "  naughty  spell"  result  di- 
rectly from  unwise  parental  manage- 
ment ;  and,  if  the  truth  were  known, 
the  consequent  upbraidings  and  dis- 
ciplinings  should  by  rights  be  bestowed 
on  the  mothers. 

Little  meat  is  required  by  the  young 
child ;  and,  until  all  the  teeth  have 
come,  only  meat  soups  should  be  al- 
lowed. Beef,  mutton,  and  poultry  are 
the  best  meats  for  the  children ;  and 
there  should  always  be  an  abundance 
of  milk  and  eggs.  The  menu  should 
include  fruit  and  vegetables  in  season, 
and  these  should  appear  at  every  meal. 
Pie  should  be  rarely,  if  ever,  used  in  a 
family  of  children.  Dried  prunes  and 
apricots  are  both  delicious  if  cooked 
properly,  and  they  are  healthful. 
Thorough  soaking  and  long  stewing 
are  necessary  for  both.  Dried  apples, 
too,  if  care  is  taken  in  their  prepara- 
sion,  may  be  made  appetizing;  and 
any  of    these    served    with    whipped 


cream  will  satisfy  all  a  child's  long- 
ings for  goodies. 

Dates  and  figs  are  desirable,  and 
will  always  be  hailed  with  pleasure. 
Either  may  be  cut  up  with  cereals  and 
served  with  cream.  Raisins  may  be 
added  to  apple  sauce,  cereals,  rice, 
or  almost  anything  suitable  for  dessert, 
with  desirable  results.  Tapioca  with 
fruit,  baked  apples,  fruit  sherbets  and 
ice-cream,  gelatines,  rice,  chocolate 
puddings,  and  the  like,  will  all  be  ap- 
preciated by  the  young  members  of 
the  household. 

It  is  most  important  that  cereals  be 
thoroughly  cooked ;  and  the  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes  required,  as  the  various 
boxes  direct,  is  never  sufficient.  It  is 
well  to  vary  these,  and  not  give  the 
children  an  opportunity  to  get  tired  of 
any  one.  With  the  great  variety  to 
be  found  in  the  market,  it  is  easy  to  do 
this. 

Breakfast  should  be  at  an  hour  which 
will  allow  the  school-goers  to  have 
plenty  of  time  without  hurry  for  the 
morning  meal.  The  hearty  meal  should 
be  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  only 
simple  food  allowed  at  night.  Tea 
and  coffee  should  never  be  given  to  a 
growing  child.  Made  dishes,  such  as 
croquettes,  and  all  fried  foods,  includ- 
ing doughnuts,  are  hard  to  digest,  and 
ought  to  be, absent  from  a  bill  of  fare 
that  is  arranged  for  children.  Whole 
wheat  bread  is  far  and  away  preferable 
to  fine  white  breads,  common  in  this 
country,  not  only  for  the  children,  but 
adult  members  of  the  family. —  New 
York  Tribune. 


"  Dear  !  dear  !  "  said  the  minister's 
wife  :  "  the  cook  has  burned  the  steak 
to  a  crisp  and  served  the  potatoes  al- 
most raw."  "  H'm  !  "  commented  the 
reverend  gentleman.  "  Done  the  things 
she  ought  not  to  have  done,  and  left 
undone  the  things  she  ought  to  have 
done." 


food  products 


^<-v 


IT  KEEPS  THE  STOMACH  SWEET 


W  Dr.  Alexander  Haig,  London,  i„  -food 

and  Diet,"  says:  "  Records  from  all  sides 
how  that  the  less  animal  flesh  a  people  take 
J'^       '""'  ''"''  '^^  '^^y  'om.  out  in  trials  of  force 
P'<"iuction,  and  especially  in  endurance"    The 
^^       '"""^  distinguished  authority  also  says:   -The 
^    proof  of  the  poisonous  nature  of  meat  lies  m 
the  beneficial  results  of  refraining  from  it  - 

^' '^'^^  only  common  sense  to  eat  less  meat 
and  more  Quaker  Oats.     This  delicious  food 
contains   all  of  the  food-elements   of  meat 
and    none    of   its    unwholesome    qualities 
^'  's  at   once   the   most  perfect  and  most 
economical  food     Easy  to  Buy  and  Easy  to 
Cook.     Sold  by  all  dealers  in  sealed  pack- 


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Housekeeper's  Memoranda 

For  the  present  this  page  will  appear  in  this  position  in  each  issue  of  the  Magazine 


To  remove  Fresh  Tea  and  Cojfee 
Stains. —  Place  the  stained  linen  over 
a  large  bowl  and  pour  through  it  boil- 
ing water  from  the  tea-kettle,  held  at  a 


height  to  insure  force. 


lo  re^nove  Old  Tea  and  Coffee  Stains. 

—  Soak   in   cold  water  first,   then  use 
boiling  water,  as  above. 

To  remove  Cocoa  and  Chocolate  Stains. 

—  Use   cold   water  first,  then  boiling 
water,  as  above. 

To  re^nove  Claret  Stains  from  Table 
Liften. —  As  soon  as  possible  cover  the 
stains  with  salt.  Let  stand  a  few  min- 
utes, then  rinse  in  cold  water. 

To  remove  Fruit  Stains. —  Pour  boil- 
ing water  over  the  stained  surface. 
Arrange  the  cloth  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  water  passes  through  a  single 
thickness,  and  from  a  height  above  it. 

To  remove  Obstinate  Fruit  Stains. — 
Use  three  ounces  of  oxalic  acid  to  one 
pint  of  water.  Wet  the  stain  with  the 
solution,  place  over  a  kettle  of  hot 
water  in  the  steam  or  in  the  sunshine. 
Rinse  well  the  instant  the  stain  disap- 
pears. Wet  the  stain  with  ammonia  to 
counteract  the  acid  remaining.  Then 
rinse  it  thoroughly  again. 

To      remove      Blood     Stains. —  Use 


clear,    cold    water    at   first,  then    soap 
and  water. 

To  remove  Ink  Spots  from  Gingham. 
—  Wet  the  spots  with  milk,  and  cover 
them  with  common  salt.  Let  stand 
some  hours,  then  rinse  in  several 
waters. 

To  remove  Ink  Spots. —  Put  one  or 
two  drops  of  oxalic  acid  on  the  spots, 
rinse  in  several  waters,  and  finally  in 
ammonia. 

To  remove  Grass  Staifis. —  Allow 
the  spots  to  remain  saturated  with 
alcohol  for  a  little  time,  then  wash  in 
clear  water. 

To  remove  Mildew.  —  Use  lemon 
juice  and  sunshine,  or,  if  deep  seated, 
soak  in  a  solution  of  one  tablespoonful 
of  chloride  of  lime  in  four  quarts  of 
cold  water  until  the  mildew  disappears, 
Rinse  several  times  in  clear  water. 

To  remove  Red  Iron-rust. —  Cover 
the  spots  with  salt,  moisten  with  lemon 
juice,  let  stand  a  time,  adding  more 
salt  and  lemon.  If  not  successful  with 
these,  use  for  fast  colors  muriatic  acid. 
Spread  the  cloth  over  a  large  bowl  of 
hot  water,  touch  the  dry  spots  with  a 
drop  or  two  of  the  acid.  When  the  rust 
disappears,  rinse  several  times  in  clear 
water,  and  then  in  water  in  which 
there  is  a  little  ammonia. 


^f^m»^  l»»l   ^'      ^^"wn^V^  «  -»  »»   W   '»W 


<=^THE  BUTTON  Srs''u7p°orte;Sne^s' 
^  No  more  Darning  at  the  Knees. 

NEVER  ©LirS  OR  TEA.11S. 

Sample  pair,  by  mail,  Catalogue  free 

25  cents. 


BUTTON 


No  Stitching  in  the  Elastic 
GEORGE  FROST  CO.,   MAKERS,   BOSTON,   MASS. 


HnCP     CUSHION 
EVERY  PAIR  V/ARRANTED.       n^-^C     ri  ittom 

SUPPORTER 

I  C\€\\^   FOR  THE  NAME 
LV7WIV  Q^    EVERY   LOOP 


, 


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xiv 


IMieceUaneous 


KNOXS  GELATINE 


V\7E  are  all  children  on^the  ques- 
tion of  desserts.  A  grown 
man  enjoys  my  gelatine  just  as 
much  as  the  small  boy;  a  healthy 
man,  just  as  much  as  the  jnvalid. 
Knox's  Gelatine  is  as  pure  as  purity 
and  as  clear  as  sparkling  water. 
You  don't  "know  gelatine"  until 
you  know  Knox's  Gelatine. 

I  WILL  MAIL  FREE  "^y  book  of  seventy 
.  "  Dainty  Desserts  for 

Dain'y  People,"  if  you  will  send  the  name  of  your 
g'-occr.  If  you  can't  do  this,  send  a  2-cent  stamp. 
For  5C  ni  stamps,  the  book  and  full  pint  sample. 
For  15c.,  the  book  and  full  two-quart  package 
(two  for  25c.  >. 

Each  large  package  contains  pink  color  for 
fancy  desserts. 

A  package  of  Knox's  Gelatine  will  make  two 
quarts  of  jelly. 

CHARLES  B.  KNOX, 

3  Knox  Avenue,  JOHNSTOWN,  N.Y.., 


^ack  frost 

Could  not  cool  off  on  the  outside 
of  an  Eddy  Refrigerator,  nor 
warm  up  on  the  inside. 

The  Eddy  packing,  which  is 
the  only  perfect  non-conductor  of 
heat  suitable  for  a  refrigerator, 
and  the  pine  wood,  which  is  a 
better  non-conductor  of  heat  than 
any  other  wood  (and  will  stand 
extremes  of  temperature  better) 
keep  the  cold  inside  and  the  heat 
outside. 

Slate-stone  shelving. 

Felting  on  all  doors  and  inside 
covers,  making  them  practically 
air-tight. 

....   EDDY    .... 
REFRIGERATORS 

are  the  standard  of  the  world. 
They  have  been  on  the  market 
for  more  than  half  a  century. 

They  are  compact,  durable  and 
economical  to  a  degree  attained 
by  no  other  makers.  . 

Illustrated  catalogue  free. 

D.  EDDY  &  SONS, 

Boston,  Mass. 


YOU 
CAN 
CHOP 


I  If  ^'5^1/         '^^^   ^"^*^   °^   food, — 
ll>^f/         raw  or  cooked  meats, 

•  '4^.1  ..^.Mr-s      I  ^^^f  vegetables,  fruits, 

g        I  (^^    Jekr^^^^   °^  nuts,  with  this 
Y        f  iB^BliU^^  wonderfully    con- 

venient   chopper. 
Saves    time    and 
labor,  as  well    as  food.     Four   knives,   one 
each,   fine,   medium,   and   coarse,   also  nut- 
butter  cutter,  sent  with  each  machine.    The 

ENTERPRISE    FOOD 
CHOPPER, 

B^- TINNED,^^^ 

Is  needed  in  every  household.  Strong,  du- 
rable, easy  to  clean.  At  all  hardware,  house- 
furnishing,  and  department  stores.    Made  by 

The  Enterprise   Manufacturing  Co. 

of  Pennsylvania, 

Philadelphia,  U.S.A. 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  uientiou  The  Bostoit  Cooking  School  Magazine. 

XV 


Household  Hints 


People  who  object  to  a  stiff  whisk- 
brush  can  obtain  at  the  factory  those 
that  are  untrimmed, —  not  yet  cHpped 
in  shape, —  which  are  softer  for  the 
garments. 

Talking  one  day  with  an  old-time 
commercial  traveller,  I  asked  him  what 
dishes  or  articles  were,  according  to 
his  experience,  the  most  seldom  served 
properly  in  country  hotels.  After  think- 
ing for  a  few  moments,  he  answered 
laconically,  "  Coffee,  potatoes,  and 
steak."  Another  question  brought  out 
details.  "The  coffee,"  he  said,  'Ms 
too  often  thick.  One  can  feel  the 
grounds  in  it  passing  over  one's  tongue, 
and  one  finds  a  heavy  residue  at  the 
bottom  of  the  cup.  There  is  no  pleas- 
ure in  drinking  such  stuff,  and  a  drum- 
mer rarely  forgets  the  place  that  serves 
it  to  him.  Coffee  should  be  almost 
transparent  in  its  clearness.  Potatoes, 
especially  fried  potatoes,  seem  to  be 
a  subject  for  very  little  care.  They 
come  on  the  table  lifeless  and  grease- 
sodden.  And  the  steak,  instead  of 
being  thick  and  rare,  is  thin  and 
dried-up." 

Mothers  of  growing  children  will 
testify  to  the  preference  that  the  latter 
have  for  a  vegetable  garden  over  a 
flower  garden,  when  they  have  an 
opportunity  to  possess  one  of  the  two. 
Flowers  are  interesting,  but  edible 
crops  are  very  much  preferred  by 
the  young  agriculturist.     One    of   the 


enterprises  receiving  the  support  of  a 
club  of  Chicago  women  is  toward 
giving  city  children  an  opportunity  to 
learn  how  common  vegetables  grow. 
It  is  proposed  to  plant  vegetable 
patches  in  the  city  parks.  The  idea 
is  to  have  the  park  gardeners  plant 
the  gardens  and  cultivate  them.  As 
is  pointed  out  by  the  promoters  of  the 
scheme,  these  vegetable  gardens  will 
be  object-lessons  of  the  way  in  which 
the  food  products  of  the  country  are 
developed.  The  committee  declares 
that  menageries  in  the  parks  for  the 
purpose  of  showing  the  youth  of  the 
country  the  habits  of  different  species 
of  animals  are  no  more  needed,  than 
are  these  miniature  grain  fields,  potato 
and  melon  patches,  to  demonstrate 
the  agricultural  processes,  by  which 
the  world  is  fed.  Corn,  wheat,  rye, 
buckwheat,  turnips  and  onions,  pump- 
kins and  squash,  are  all  scheduled  for 
illustration  in  the  scheme. 


Take  the  centre  out  of  a  hot  biscuit 
and  roll  it  a  minute  in  your  hand,  and 
it  soon  becomes  a  solid  mass  of  dough, 
a  "  lead  pill."  That  is  the  thing  your 
stomach  wrestles  with  when  it  attempts 
to  digest  hot  bread  or  biscuit.  A  good 
deal  of  the  cold  bread  is  just  about  as 
bad.  Such  food  may  be  nutritious  for 
the  chap  in  the  circus  who  relishes 
ground  glass  and  eats  swords  and  ten- 
penny  nails,  but  it  shortens  the  lives  of 
average  people. 


^:. 


MINUTE 
kCELATINE 


^S^^ligA^ 


WHITMAN  GROCERY  CO. 

ORANGE, MASS. 


In  all  "  dessertdom  "  there's  nothing  more  delicious,  more  beautiful 
when  ready  to  serve,  or  more  easily  prepared,  than  the  innumerable 
dainty  desserts  made  from 

MINUTE    GELATINE. 

It  is  absolutely  pure,  dissolves  instantly  in  boiling  water,  requires  no 
measuring,  sets  quicker  and  makes  more  jelly  than  any  other  kind. 

If  your  grocer  does  not  keep  it,  send  us  13  cents,  and  we  will  mail 
you  full-size  package,  making  two  quarts. 

Manufactured  by 

WHITMAN    GROCERY    COMPANY,    Orange,    Mass. 

Also  manufacturers  of  the  celebrated  MINUTE 
TAPIOCA,  which  requires  710  soaking. 


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xvi 


Investinents 


Men  Jump  at  the  Chance 


To  buy  stock  in  the  great  industrial  combinations,"  said  a 
prominent  Boston  investor  the  other  day.  "  The  glitter  of  big 
figures  catches  them.  If  they  stopped  to  think,  though:  The 
big  dividends  are  usually  paid  by  the  corporations  with 
moderate  capital  stock  and  large  surplus.  If  you  are  going 
to  take  stock  in  any  new  enterprise,  take  it  in  one  that  supplies 
something  that  everybody  or  every  household  needs  every  day^ 

The  No  Rub  Manufacturing  Company 

OF  BOSTON 

Is  precisely  such  an  enterprise.  It  is  incorporated  wnth  $500,000  capital  to 
manufacture  and  sell  NO  RUB  SILVER  POLISH.  The  article  is  of 
such  superior  merit  that  almost  immediately  after  being  placed  on  the  market 
it  was  a  unique  success.  Why  NO  RUB  was  this  unique  success  :  because 
it  has  proven  itself  to  be  absolutely  better  than  all  others  for  these  reasons, — 
it  cleanses  and  polishes  instantly;  you  do  NO  RU BBING  whatever;  it 
leaves  no  powder  in  the  engraved  parts,  and  is  absolutely  harmless  to  the 
most  delicate  surface. 

The  original  proprietors,  being  handicapped  by  limited  facilities  for  sup- 
plying the  demands,  interested  several  Boston  capitalists  in  the  enterprise, 
among  them  David  E.  Gould,  Trustee  Boston  Store  and  Realty  Trust  Co.; 
F.  C.  Baker,  Treasurer  and  Manager  of  the  Baker  Rumney  Painting  Co., 
Boston;  George  H.  Jones,  Capitalist,  Chelsea,  Mass.;  and  others  equally 
well  known. 

The  stock,  which  is  divided  into  20  0^0  shares  of  a  par  value  of  $25 
each,  has  been  largely  subscribed;  but  2,000  shares  are  offered  for  public 
subscription  at  $20  a  share.  These  shares  are  first  issue  treasury  stock, 
full  paid  and  non-assessable. 

The  business  is  already  established,  the  goods  are  selling  in  nearly 
every  State  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  increased  facilities  afforded  by 
the  new  factory  about  to  be  erected  are  such  as  to  guarantee  a  handsome 
return  upon  the  investment.  We  want  to  interest  conservative  investors  in 
our  proposition,  and  will  gladly  send  to  any  address  full  illustrated  pro- 
spectus, with  sample  of  polish. 

For  full  particulars  address 

UNION  TRUST  COMPANY, 

246  Washington  Street,  Boston,  flass. 


B 


UTCHERS'    BOSTON    POLISH 

is  the  best  finish  made  for 

FLOORS,  BOWLING  ALLEYS, 

INTERIOR  WOODWORK,  and  FURNITURE. 


B 


MANUFACTUBED   BV  THE 

UTCHER  POLISH  CO., 


Circulars  sent  on  Application. 
For  Sals  by  Dealers  in  Painters'  Supplies. 


356  Atlantic  Avenue,  Boston,  Mass. 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazin] 

xvii 


Kitchen  furnishings 


Ice  Cream 
Without  a  Grind  ! 

The  chief  objection 
to  making  ice  cream 
ice  or  sherbet,  was 
that  crank  grinding 
It  was  not  only  ex 
tremely     wearisome 

rl  T^-^&Si^HK^  '-"-'^  most  unhealthy 

^^'^^l||^MIP^^  Whether  it  had    the 
■  ^^I^^HKT^P  wonderful     **  triple 
^'"^^^^^^  motion"     or 

«'  one  m  o= 
tion,"  it  always 
meant  a  grind. 
The  XXth 
Century 
Freeze  r 
makes  a  s 
d  elici  ous 
and  smooth 
ice  cream  as 

was  ever  made  by  the  best  old-fashioned  dash 
freezers,  and  no  crank  grinding  is  required.    The 

XXth  Century 
Freezer 

is  simple,  durable,  economical.  No  parts  to 
break  or  get  out  of  order,  easily  cleaned  and 
therefore  healthful.  It  saves  its  cost  in  ice  and 
salt  consumed  in  a  single  season.  Salt  cannot 
get  into  the  cream  and  it  will  keep  cream  frozen 
much  longer  than  any  dash  freezer  —  no  repack- 
ing. Mix  the  ingredients  together,  let  it  stand, 
and  it's  done. 

Up-to-date  dealers  have  the  "  XXth  Century"  Freezer. 
If  you  don't  believe  the  freezer  will  do  what  we  claim  for  it, 
read  our  guarantee  offer. 


GUARANTEE  OFFER  ^sk  your  dealer 
for  the  "  XXth 
Centur\'  "  Freezer.  If  he  does  not  have  it,  send 
us  his  name  with  cash,  and  we  will  send  it, 
express  prepaid.  If  sent  West  of  the  Missis- 
sippi we  pay  half  express  charges.  Use  it  for 
lo  days  and  if  it  is  not  all  you  hoped  for  or  ex- 
pected, return  it  express  paid  and  we  will  im- 
mediately refund  the  full  purchase  price  — 
no  questions  asked. 


2.00 
3.00 


No.2,will  freeze  as  much  creamd^  I    CA 

as  a  2  quart  dash  freezer,   »P*«»J" 
No.3,will  freeze  as  much  cream    1  "JC 

as  a  3  quart  dash  freezer,       '•'«J 
No. 4, will  freeze  as  much  cream 

as  a  4  quart  dash  freezer, 
No.6,wilIfreezeas  much  cream 

as  a  6  quart  dash  freezer, 
No.8,wiII  freeze  as  much  cream    A  AA 

as  an  8  quart  dash  freezer,     «•  vV 


"  Ices  Dainty  and  Novel,"  an 
illustrated  book  (prepared  for  us) 
giving  30  new  recipes  for  creams, 
ices,  sherbets,  etc.,  by  Mrs.  Janet  M. 
Hill,  of  the  Boston  Cooking  School 
and  Ladies'  Home  Journal,  will  be 
mailed  on  receipt  of  10  cents  in 
stamps. 

CORDLEY  «&  HAYES, 

176  Duane  St.,        New  YorJc. 


Laugh  and  Get  Well 

"  Laugh  and  grow  fat"  is  a  saying 
that  contains  a  deal  of  truth,  and  is 
worthy  of  attention  by  many  sufferers 
in  body  as  well  as  in  mind.  We  in- 
stinctively associate  jollity  with  rotund- 
ity, and  a  sour  disposition  with  a 
spare  form.  The  rule  is,  of  course, 
not  without  exceptions ;  for  we  often 
see  people  with  little  propensity  to  take 
on  fat  who  are  full  of  fun  and  sunshine. 
Such  persons  are  not  boisterous,  how- 
ever. They  are  possessed,  it  may  be, 
of  a  quiet  humor,  are  happy  and  make 
others  happy,  and  they  smile  easily 
and  perhaps  laugh  softly  ;  but  they  do 
not  laugh  loud,  and  certainly  they  do 
not  cachinnate. 

The  convulsive  movements  that 
we  call  laughter  exert  a  very  real  ef- 
fect upon  the  physical  organism.  They 
cause  the  arteries  to  dilate,  so  that 
they  carry  more  blood  to  the  tissues  of 
the  body,  and  the  heart  to  beat  more 
rapidly,  so  that  the  flow  of  the  blood 
through  the  vessel  is  hastened.  In 
other  words,  laughter  promotes  the  very 
best  conditions  for  an  increase  of  the 
vital  processes, —  the  tissues  take  up 
more  nutriment. 

In  Bread-making 

There  are  certain  conditions  that 
control  the  quality  of  bread, —  for  in- 
stance, the  temperature  at  which  the 
flour  is  kept.  Flour  should  not  be  ex- 
posed to  an  extremely  low  temperature, 
but  should  be  kept,  if  possible,  in  a 
cool,  dry,  and  airy  room  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  70  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

Flour  should  not  be  stored  in  a 
room  with  goods  that  have  a  strong 
flavor  or  odor,  such  as  coal  oil,  tobacco, 
coffee,  fish,  or  stale  vegetables ;  for  it 
will  absorb  these  odors,  and  retain  them, 
when  in  the  form  of  bread.  Through 
this  cause,  flour  is  sometimes  pro- 
nounced unsound. 

In  the  Pie  Belt 

A  young  girl  who  carried  her  dinner 
was  observed  to  always  eat  her  pie 
first.  When  asked  why,  she  replied  : 
"  Well,  if  there's  anything  left,  it  won't 
be  the  pie.     Will  it  now  ?  " 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazini 


JMisccUancous 


Prejudiced    J^f„^ 

IS  the  state  oi  any  woman  s  1^     ,-rH^  ^^^\ 

mind  who  closes  her  ears  ^      >^I\OC 

to  the  praises  of 

White 
Cottolene 

Its  fame  has  spread  to 
every  country.  Wise 
cooks  everywhere  know  it 
is  the  shortening  which 
makes  crusts  the  best  part 
of  their  pies,  because  they 
are  so  flaky  and  crisp  and 
taste  so  good. 

It  is  better  than  lard  and 
as  satisfactory  as  butter 
in  EVERY  department 
of  cookery.  Why  not 
order  a  pail  at  once? 


•ForWbmeit- 

and   Men. 

ALL   STYLES,   $3.50. 

Boston    Store,     159    Tremont     Street 


The   N.   K.   Fairbank   Company, 

Chicago,  New  York,  Montreal. 
Sole  Manufacturers. 
■p^TDT^T^  (  Our  dainty  booklet,  "A 
r  IS.  11,11,  .  p^^yj^  Secret,"  mailed 
free  to  any  address.  For  two  2c. -stamps 
we  will  send  free  our  125-page  recipe  book, 
"Home  Helps,"    edited  by  Mrs.  Rorer. 


P.  S.— No  hog  fat  in  Cottolene. 


Puredental 

Tooth  Powder 


PUREDENTAL 

TOOTH  POWDER 

israti^D.  ntflrely  f 


iC£,    35     CENTS 


'QREPARED  espe- 
^  cially  for  general 
family  use.  This  pow- 
der is  ver)'  pleasing  to  the 
taste, and  is  unequalled  for 
cleansing  the  teeth,  pre- 
venting their  decay,  and 
strengthening  the  gums. 
It  is  entirely  free  from 
all  gritty  and  injurious 
instances,  and  is  highly 
commended  by  den- 
tists everywhere. 

If  it  is  not  kept  by 
your  druggist,  a  large  4- 
ounce  bottle  will  be  sent 
postpJfid  on  receipt  of 
price,    35    cents. 

Send  stamps  or  coin. 

Send  2-cent  stamp 
ror    sample. 


PUREDENTAL  TOOTH  POWDER  CO., 

378    Boylston    Street,    Boston,    Massachusetts 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 

xix 


bearing  Hpparel 


Fashionable  Paris  has  been  much 
amused,  lately,  by  an  incident  which 
took  place  between  the  witty  Comtesse 
de  Fontenay  and  her  incomparable  but 
unbearable  cook,  whom  she  had  to  put 
up  with  on  account  of  her  gourmet  of 
a  husband.  However,  during  the  ab- 
sence of  M.  de  Fontenay,  Mile.  Louise 
became  so  insolent  that  the  Comtesse 
gave  her  notice.  Her  disgust  was 
great,  however,  when,  on  the  morrow, 
Mile.  Louise  came  to  her  triumphant, 
and  told  her  that  she  was  all  but  en- 
gaged by  the  Baronne  de  V.,  whose 
husband  was  also  a  great  epicurean, 
and  had  often  complimented  the  Comte 
de  Fontenay  on  the  daintiness  of  his 
table.  "Ma'am,"  said  Louise,  with  a 
sniff,  "you  will  give  me  a  character,  if 
you  please,  not  for  my  cooking, —  that 
is  well  known, —  but  for  honesty  and 
the  rest  of  it." 

Mile.  Louise  was  an  exquisite  sauce 
maker,  but  her  education  had  been 
very  much  neglected,  and  she  was  un- 
able to  decipher  writing,  much  less  the 
elegant  pates  de  mouche  of  a  comtesse  ; 
and  when,  with  her    best    bonnet  and 


her  best  black  silk  on,  she  asked  her 
mistress  for  the  desired  testimonial, 
she  simply  took  it  and  walked  away, 
l^ut  her  astonishment  was  great  when 
she  saw  the  Baronne  de  V.  read  the 
document  twice,  then  burst  out  laugh- 
ing, and  signal  for  her  to  go.  "  Ma 
fille,"  she  said,  chuckling,  "  I'm  afraid 
you  won't  do  for  me." 

This  is  what  the  Baronne  de  V. 
read :  — ■ 

I,  Comtesse  de  Fontenay,  hereby  certify 
that  for  three  years  I  have  been  at  the  ser- 
vice of  Mile.  Louise  Girot,  and  done  my  very 
best  to  please  her  in  all  things,  and  show  her 
my  devoted  submission.  I  was  often  dis- 
tressed at  seeing  that  her  temper  was  some- 
what difficult  to  put  up  with,  though  I  tried 
hard  to  live  on  good  terms  with  her  on  ac- 
count of  the  excellence  of  her  sauces,  of 
which  M.  le  Comte  was  so  fond  that  I  should 
have  Uked  to  remain  at  Mile.  Louise's  service 
much  longer.  My  purse,  as  well  as  my  pa- 
tience, having  been  constantly  dealt  with  by 
Mile.  Louise  with  unlimited  liberty,  I  cannot 
say  much  about  her  honesty. 

For  this  document  the  Comtesse  de 
Fontenay  was  condemned  to  pay  a 
slight  fine  by  one  of  the  judges.  But 
she  had  her  little  joke. 


"  See  where  she  comes,  apparelled  like  the  Spring." — Ferides. 

Ladies'  Suits  and  Coats         ..........  Oak  Room 

Ladies'  Waists  and  Gowns  ......  Ladies'  Garment  Annex 

Ladies'  Underwear,  Hosiery,  and  Gloves Ivory  Room 

Ladies'  Corsets        ............         Ivory   Room 

Ladies'  Shoes Ivory  Room 

EXPERT  supervision  in  production  enables  \\^  to  place  before  the  ladies 
of  Boston  and  New  England  this  season  complete  wardrobes  of  ele- 
gant and  fashionable  garments  that  will  claim  attention  for  originality, 
beauty,  serviceability,  and  economy. 

An  especial  advantage  we  are  able  to  offer  is  "  men's  handiwork,"  so  essen- 
tial in  the  perfection  of  the  fit,  finish,  and  contour  of  ladies'  suits  and  coats. 

THE    Ladies'   Waist,   Gown,   Underwear,   and   Shoe   Departments  are 
headed  by  gentlemen  who  fully  understand  their  business,  and  are 
therefore  competent  to  offer  rare  suggestions  and  advice. 

We  assure  our  patrons  of  polite  and  respectful  attention  in  all  departments. 

A.    Shuman    dz    Co.,     Shuman    Corner,     BostOn 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 


Kitchen  f^irnisbings 


I 


HOWto 
BAKE 


Purchase  and  prepare  the  food 
carefully.     Do  the  rest  with  a 


HOME  CRAWFORD 

Range.  The  results  will  surely  be  satisfactory.  The  single  damper,  by  a 
single  motion,  controls  fire  and  oven  heat  better  than  can  be  done  with  two 
dampers.  The  Oven  is  extra  large;  five  heights  for  rack,  asbestos  lined 
back.  The  fire=box  burns  fuel  economically  and  perfectly;  choice  of 
triple,  dock  ash,  or  plain  grate.  Ask  Your  Dealer.     Circular  Free. 

WALKER  8t  PRATT  MFG.  CO.,  31-35  Union  St.,  Boston,  Mass. 


Champion   Stove   Clay 

Is  for  MENDING  CRACKS  and  HOLES  in  the  STOVE  LINING. 

When  this  lining  becomes  cracked  or  gets  holes  broken 
through  it, —  as  constantly  occurs, —  then  the  fierce  heat 
has  direct  access  to  the  front  of  the  oven,  and  will  warp 
and  crack  the  oven  plate  and  ruin  your  stove.  -... 
Besides,  the  oven  is  heated  unevenly,  and  will  not  ''.•"■■- 
bake  satisfactorily. 


Watch  the  Stove  Lining. 

Examine  it  in  the  morning  before  making  a 
fire,  and,  if  you  find  holes  or  cracks,  plug 
them  up  with  a  Httle  CHAMPION  Stove 
Clay.  This  is  a  combination  of  powdered  fire- 
clays and  plumbago.  Mix  with  water  and 
use  like  mortar  or  cement.  Any  one  can 
use  it.  Keep  a  box  on  hand.  It's  cheap. 
Buy  it  of  stove  dealers  and  at  hardware  and 
general  stores.      Write  us  if  you  can't  get  it. 

Don't  neglect  the  stove  lining :  the 
life  of  the  stove  depends  upon  it. 

Bridgeport  Crucible  Co.,  Bridgeport,  Conn. 


UmuiuUUlmiltuuiilimuuiiimiimiiiiiiimiiiiiiuuuauui 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  Thk  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 


food  products 


Nicelle  Olive  Oil, 

GRAND  PRIX, 
Exposition  Universelle,  Paris,  1900. 

Recommended  ^j'  (7// 
Cooking     Teachers    and     Food    Magazines. 


Man-Olas, 

OUR    NEW    OLIVE    SPECIALTY,    LIKE 

Pim-Olas. 

They  are  a  welcome  addition   to  the  Menu. 


"White  Label"  *  » 

#  #  #  #  #  Products 

Secured  the 
Highest  Award   at   Paris   Exposition. 

Seville    Packing    Company, 

NEW  YORK. 


HASKELL,  ADAMS   &  COMPANY, 
Boston  Distributing  Agents. 


BAKINCi 

ffOWDERv 

!!>ui!!lii,|„|,if^"'i 

linpiil 

yjJI;?0ST0N.MA4S,J;Sj'?jj"' 


Mrs.  LINCOLN'S 

BAKING    POWDER 
COOK     BOOK    ^    e^ 


Of  Seasonable  Dishes  for 
every  month,  FREE,  with 
each    can    purchased. 


BOSTON,  MASS. 


Grocers 


It 


AFTER  MANY  YEARS'  EXPERIENCE, 
AM  CONVINOEO  THAT  A  PURE  CREAM  OF  , 
TAflTAR    BAKIN6  POWDER  IS  THE  BEST^ 
QUICK    LEAVENINQ,   AGENT,    AND    IS 
WHOLESOME   FOOD  ADJUNCT. 

I  GUARANTEE  THAT  THIS   POWDER, 
PREPARED   AFTER    MY   FORMULA,    CON- 
TAINS   ONLY    THE    HIGHEST   POSSIBLE 
GRADE  OF  CREAM  OF  TARTAR  AND    Bl 
CARBONATE  OF  SODA,  WITH  THE  SMALL- 
EST    PERCENTAGE    OF   CORN    STARCH   , 
NECESSARY  FOR  ITS  PERFECT  KEEPING. 
AS  LONG  AS  MYSIGNATURE.APPEARS 
ON  THESE  LABELS,  HOUSEKEEPERS  may/ 
BE  SURE  THAT  THIS  FORMULA  WILL  BE 
FOLLOWED   IN  THE   MANUFACTURE  OF 
THIS  BAKING  POWDER. 


AUTHOR  a^THg/ '.BOSTON  COOK  BOOK" 
AMD  tEO.  OF  MRS     LINCOLN'S  BAKINd 

POWDER  COMPANY. 


Office 
21 

Commerce 
Street 
Boston 
None  genuine  without  Mrs.  Mary  J.  Lincoln's  signature 


Care  of  the  Refrigerator 

Now  that  the  heated  weather  is  again 
with  us,  too  much  cannot  be  said  on  the 
subject  of  proper  care  of  the  refrigera- 
tor. This  important  article  of  house- 
keeping furniture  may  be  either  a  clean, 
pure  receptacle,  where  food  may  be  kept 
in  a  wholesome  condition,  or  it  may  be 
a  breeding  and  abiding  place  for  disease 
germs.  Many  housekeepers,  who  would 
not  think  of  trusting  the  laundering 
of  fine  napery  or  delicate  embroideries, 
or  cleaning  of  fine  bric-a-brac,  to  the 
one  often  overworked  and  more  often 
careless  maid-of-all-work,  leave  the 
management  of  this  important  matter 
entirely  to  the  servant,  and  then  are 
surprised  at  the  amount  of  ice  bills, 
the  queer  taste  of  milk  and  the  ran- 
cidity of  the  butter.  In  the  first  place, 
put  plenty  of  ice  in  the  refrigerator  or 
ice-box.  A  piece  of  ice  weighing  ten 
pounds,  put  in  daily,  is  of  little  or 
no  use.  Put  in  one  hundred  pounds,  or 
as  much  as  the  refrigerator  will  hold, 
twice  a  week,  and  it  will  always  be  cool. 
When  the  refrigerator  is  thoroughly 
chilled,  the  ice  will  not  melt  so  rapidly. 

Insist  that  the  doors  be  kept  closed, 
even  if  it  is  expected  to  replace  the 
article  taken  out  in  a  few  moments. 
Then  keep  the  box  strictly  clean,  but 
do  not  scald  it,  if  you  have  a  care  for 
the  amount  of  your  ice-bill.  Some  over 
zealous  housewives  scrub  and  scald  the 
refrigerator  once  a  week.  Under  such 
circumstances  the  box  becomes  heated, 
and,  as  soon  as  ice  is  put  in,  it  melts 
rapidly,  without  throwing  down  the 
proper  amount  of  cold  air  ;  and  it  really 
takes  twenty-four  hours  to  bring  it  back 
to  the  point  of  refrigeration.  Scalding 
is  only  necessary  where  ice  is  taken 
the  year  round.     Then  the  box  should 


State  of  Ohio,  City  of  Toledo,  )  ^g 
Lucas  County,  ) 

Frank  J.  Cheney  makes  cath  that  he  is  senior  partner 
of  the  firm  of  F.  J.  Cheney  &  Co.,  doing  business  in  the 
City  of  Toledo,  County  and  State  aforesaid,  and  that 
said  firm  will  pay  the  sum  of  One  Hundred  Dollars  for 
each  and  every  case  of  Catakrh  that  cannot  be  cured 
by  the  use  of  Hall's  Catarrh  Cure. 

Frank  J.  Cheney. 

Sworn  to  before  me,  and  subscribed  in  my  presence, 
this  sixth  day  of  December,  a.u.  1886. 

A.  W.   Gi.EA.SON, 

[Skal]  Notary  Public. 

Hall's  Catarrh  Cure  is  taken  internally,  and  acts 
directly  on  tlie  blood  and  mucous  surfaces  of  the  system. 
Send  for  testimonials,  free. 

F.  J.  Cheney  &  Co.,  Toledo,  Ohio. 

Sold  by  Druggists,  75c. 

Hall's  Family  Pills  are  the  best. 


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IMisccllaneous 


U3E5TBYALLTESTC 


B 


MAGEE  FURNACE  CO., 
32  to  38  Union  Street,  Boston, 

MAKIiUS  OK  TIIK  CKLEBRATEU 

MAGEE  HEATERS  AMD  RANGES, 

Send  for  descriptive  painpiilet. 


HALF  THE 


OF- 

liV/NO  /SL 
T/fE  COOK/NO: 
All  the  fun  of 

COOMiNO  /3/A/TH£ 
MAGEE. 

TffE  ONLY /?ANG£  WAT 

coo/rs  i///r//  ab- 

SOLUre  C//V/FO/?M/77 

A/VO   /fro/£/v/c 
f^EffFEcr/o/v,  — 

^F£N  COO/r//VCh 

r//Ar  WAV 

FO/i^Qy£APS. 


SOLD  BY 
LEADING  DEALERS 


[ 


AWARDED  GOLD  MEDAL,  PARIS    EXPOSITION,  1900. 


] 


01 LRIGHT 

FOR 


"  3  in  1  "is  beyond  question  the 
very  best.  It  is  sweet  smelling 
and  water  white,  with  just  enough 
body  to  oil  right  and  yet  not  gum, 
collect  dust  or  clog  the  bearings  of 
the  finest  mechanism. 

works  equally  well  on  typewriters, 
sewing  machines,  guns,  bicycles, 
clocks,  locks,  and  hmges. 
All  dealers  sell  it.  For  two-cent 
stamp  we  will  send  you  sample 
bottle  free. 

G.  W.  COLE    CO. 

145  Broadway,  Cor.  Liberty 
NEW  YORK  CITY 


THE    OLD    RELIABLE 


Carburet  of 
Iron" 


DIXON'S 
Stove  Polish. 

Never  turns  Red  or  Rusts  your  Stoves. 
Jos.  Dixon  Crucible  Co.,  -  -  Jersey  City,  N.J. 


?►♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 
CHEMISTS  AND   PHYSICIANS  t 

TESTIFY  TO  THE  ABSOLUTE   PURITY  OF 

SLADE'S 
SPICES. 

A.  R.  Gray,M.D.  of  New  . 
York,  says  in  the  American 
Journal  0/ Health : 

"The  most  searchingr  ♦ 
analysis  of  SLADE'S  ♦ 
SPICES   but  demon-  ' 
strates  their  excellence 
and    absolute    purity,, 
and    condiments   sold 
under  their  brand  are 
eminently    worthy    of 
praise  from  every  phy-  " 
sician  and  health  jour- 
nalintheland."  Insist 
on  having-  Slade's  Spices.  ^ 
D.  &  L.  SLADE  CO.,  BOSTON,   MASS.  2 
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 

xxiii 


food  products 


{ Unexpected  Company  \ 

A        Has  no  Terror  for  tiik  House.        A 

T  KEEPKR  ■\VUO    HAS    IN    THIC    HOL'SK  W 


QUICK 
COOKING 


5  SLADE'S 

TAPIOCA. 

Delicioxis  Desserts  are 
Quickly  made  tvith  it. 

Ask  Your  Grocer  for  it. 

A  Booklet  of  Receipts  FREE. 

D.  &  L.  SL ADE  CO. ,  Boston. 


Peter  Cooper's 

Clarified 

GELATINE 

For  Wine  Jellies, 
Blanc-Mange, 
Charlotte   Russe 

pure  and  wholesome 

Our  Pulverized  Gelatine  is  the 
most  convenient  for  family  use. 
Dissolves  in  a  few  minutes. 

An  8-cent  package 
makes  two  quarts. 
Cheapest  and  best. 

For  sale  by  all  grocers. 

S.  S.   PIERCE    COMPANY, 

BOSTON,    MASS., 
Manufacturers'  Agents. 


be  thoroughly  scalded,  dried,  and  aired 
twice  or  three  times  a  year ;  and  the 
same  should  be  done  when  it  is  closed 
up  for  the  winter.  Clean  the  refrigera- 
tor carefully  once  a  week,  washing  the 
walls,  sides,  and  all  shelves  with  cold 
water,  with  a  little  powdered  borax  dis- 
solved in  it,  a  clean  cloth,  and  some  pure 
soap, —  not  the  ordinary  strong-smell- 
ing yellow  bar  used  for  scrubbing  the 
kitchen  and  laundry.  Work  into  all 
grooves  and  corners  with  a  skewer, 
and  then  rinse  and  wipe  dry.  Clean 
drain  pipe  thoroughly  with  a  cloth 
wrapped  round  a  stick,  and  rinse  out 
well. 

But  as  important  as  all  this  is  a  rigid 
insistence  that,  if  anything  is  spilled  in 
the  refrigerator,  it  be  wiped  up  at  once 
with  cold  water.  The  outside  of  all 
vessels  should  be  scrupulously  clean, 
and  none  should  be  set  in  the  box  so 
full  that  the  contents  will  spill  with  the 
slightest  jar.  On  no  account  allow  any- 
thing warm  to  be  placed  in  it.  Ex- 
amine the  refrigerator  daily  to  see  that 
no  berries  have  been  dropped  in  the 
bottom  and  that  no  lump  of  butter  or 
other  foreign  matter  is  clinging  to  the 
shelf  or  side.  Do  not  allow  scraps  of 
food  to  accumulate  beyond  their  period 
of  usefulness.  Some  articles  of  par- 
ticularly penetrating  odor,  like  canta- 
loupes, should  not  be  kept  in  the  re- 
frigerator at  all.  These  are  only  good 
when  fresh,  and  can  be  cooled  in  a 
short  time  by  cutting  in  half,  scooping 
out  seeds,  filling  halves  with  broken 
ice,  and  placing  together  until  needed. 
Centra]  Advocate. 


Judging  by  rules,  anatomic  or  eco- 
nomic, Boston  Garters  always  win  the 
approval  of  men  who  once  wear  them. 


A  DeJica-te 
Ccnfeciion  and  Fo 

f  or*JL  u  n  c  h  e  3  *s=*^^ 


Made  by 

5'i'i   Ai  iantic  Ave.  Dos'ton 


Maker    of   the    BOSTON    CHOCOLATES 

When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School,  Magazine. 

xxiv 


f'bod  products 


MAKE    YOUR    OWN     ICE-CREAM    AND    A 
VARIETY    OF    DAINTY     DESSERTS    WITH 


jS^ 


CHR.    HANSEN'S 


jS^ 


JUNKET  TABLETS 

10   TABLETS   FOR   lo   QUARTS,   lo   CENTS 
Book   of  receipts,  yunket  Dainties^  free  with  every  box 


WHAT    THOSE    WHO   HAVE    USED   JUNKET    TABLETS    SAY 


Wellington,  Kan.,  August  29,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  I  have  been  sending  to  you  from  time 
to  time  for  your  lo-cent  boxes  of  Junket  Tablets,  but 
we  have  got  to  be  so  fond  of  the  Junket  desserts  that 
we  are  using  the  tablets  daily,  and  it  keeps  me  writing 
continually  for  more  Junket  Tablets.  I  see  in  the  book 
sent  with  last  box  that  you  give  100  tablets  for  75  cents, 
so  enclose  that  amount.  Kindly  forward  by  return 
mail,  as  we  are  nearly  out  and  feel  lost  without  a  supply 
on  hand. 

Respectfully, 

A.    H.    Keyes. 

Santa  Cruz,  Calif.,  September  17,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  Last  three  boxes  Junket  Tablets  came 
safely;  but  we  like  them  and  have  friends,  and  they  are 
gone,  so  I  will  thank  you  to  mail  me  three  more 
packages. 

Very  truly, 

William   W.    Parker. 

Waynesboro,  Va.,  September  5,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  Please  send  me  by  return  mail  five  of 
your  lo-cent  packages  of  Junket  Tablets. 

We  have  used  it  for  some  time,  and  like  it  better 
than  anything  of  the  kind  we  have  ever  tried. 
Enclosed  you  will  find  55  cents  in  stamps. 
Very  truly  yours, 

Mrs.   W.   N.    FiSHBURNE. 

Carrollton,  Ohio,  August  14,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  While  in  New  York  recently  I  ob- 
tained a  package  of  your  Junket,  and  am  so  pleased 
with  it  that  I  wish  you  to  send  me.  ^i  worth  of 
packages,  as  every  one  who  has  tasted  it  wants  me  to 
get  them  a  box. 

Respectfully, 

Mrs.  J.  C.  Ferrall. 


106  West  13th  Street, 
New  York,  August  31,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  Please  accept  my  sincere  thanks  for 
your  prompt  reply  to  my  letter  and  request  for  your 
cook  book,  which  I  have  since  received  with  the  pack- 
age of  tablets.  I  find  the  tablets  are  invaluable,  espe- 
cially where  a  patient  is  confined  to  fluid  diet,  as  in 
typhoid  fever,  etc.  The  form  in  which  they  are  done 
up  is  so  convenient. 

Cordially  yours, 

Sarah  J.  Mac  King. 


Mayaguez,  Porto  Rico,  September  14,  1899. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs, —  I  enclose  money  order  for  ^i;  for 
which  please  send  by  mail  to  address  as  below  its  -value 
in  your  Junket  Tablets,  making  allowance  for  postage. 
Address,  "Major  Charles  L.  Cooper,  Fifth  U.S. 
Cavalry,   Mayaguez,    Porto  Rico." 

Please  quote  price  by  the  dozen,  and  send  me  word 
how  much  each  dozen  weighs,  so  that  in  the  future  I 
can  send  for  those  quantities.  We  use  your  tablets 
twice  each  week  for  desserts,  and  find  them  not  only 
excellent,  but  just  the  thing  for  a  tropical  climate  like 
this.  In  fact,  we  can  attribute  to  a  great  extent  our 
good  health,  while  being  compelled  to  sojourn  under 
the  burning  sun  in  this  section,  to  the  use  of  the  Junket 
Tablets,  and  therefore  feel  that  we  cannot  do  without 
them. 

Yours  very  truly, 

(Signed),  Charles  L.  Cooper, 

Major  Fifth  U.  §.  Cavalry. 


Neponset,  Mass.,  April  20,  1900. 
Chr.  Hansen's  Laboratory,  Little  Falls,  N.Y. 

Dear  Sirs,—  Please  send  me  a  descriptive  price  list. 
We  think  there  is  nothing  better  than  Chr.  Hansen's 
Junket. 

Mrs.  Lillian   Dunn. 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 


food  products 


i 


.  .  .  .  i^ 

"Bhe   Hog 
QLnd  the  Lily 

illustrate   the   difference 
between   laLrd   and 

WESSON 

ODORLESS 

COOKING 
OIL 

A   Purely  Vegetable  Product 

Animal  fat  may  carry  disease  with  it  and  be 
unclean.  It  is  very  indigestible.  Wesson  Odor- 
less Cooking  Oil  is  pure,  sweet  and  clean.  It 
goes  t^vice  as  far  as  laLrd  or  butter ! 

Wesson  Salad  Oil  is  far  better  value  than 
the  finest  olive  oil  and  has  the  same  flavor.  Ask 
your  friendly  grocer  for  it. 


BAnv/fyG/^PwCo. 


These  trade-mark  crisscross 

GLUTE 

SPECIAL 
K.  C.WHOL 

Unlike   all    ot 

For  b 
Farwell  &  Rhines, 


lines  on  every  package. 
For 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT  FLOUR. 

Ask    Grocers, 
write 
own.N.Y..U.S.A. 


Bosto7i  Cooking- School  Magazine: 

I  have  taken  your  magazine  for 
three  years,  have  tried  a  great  many 
of  the  recipes,  and  found  them  all 
good.  In  fact,  I  have  never  had  but 
one  failure.  I  enjoy  the  reading  mat- 
ter very  much.  Thanking  you  for 
brightening  the  humdrum  of  every-day 
housework  with  the  many  cheering 
thoughts  you  have  expressed,  and  wish- 
ing many  years  of  prosperity  to  the 
Boston  Cooking-School  Magazine^  I  am. 
Yours  sincerely, 
E.  A.  S.,  Syracuse,  N.Y. 


Instead  of  the  usual  stereotyped  let- 
ter of  spring  announcements,  A.  Shu- 
man  &  Co.  are  sending  out  a  very 
neat  and  tastily  gotten-up  booklet. 
With  the  advent  of  spring  a  special 
invitation  is  extended  to  pay  a  visit 
of  inspection  to  their  ladies'  depart- 
ments, where  most  attractive  lines  of 
ladies'  habiliments,  including  suits  and 
coats,  waists  and  gowns,  underwear, 
corsets,  and  shoes  can  be  seen.  Ex- 
pert supervision,  men's  handiwork,  en- 
able this  house  to  produce  elegant  and 
fashionable  garments  that  claim  at- 
tention for  originality,  beauty,  service- 
ability, and  economy. 

Cottage  Pudding 

Cream  one-fourth  a  cup  of  butter, 
add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one  well- 
beaten  ^gg^  and,  alternately,  half  a 
cup  of  milk  and  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  flour,  sifted,  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
and  a  half' of  Slade's  Congress  yeast- 
powder.  Bake  in  an  agate  gem-pan, 
and  serve  with  liquid  pudding  sauce. 


OristMill 

Wheat  Coffee 

Delicious  and 
Healthful 
Substitute 

S^SK  YOUR  OROCER-HE  SELLS  It, 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  Thb  Boston  Cooking  School  Maoazinb. 

xxvi 


Investments 


XJBERO 

TLANTATION  CO 


^^w 
* 


t>-T 


A  Rare  Chance 

TO  PROVIDE  FOR  YOURSELF 
and  FAMILY   A    LIFE    INCOME 

EARNING    50   TO    100% 

PER  ANNUM 
BY    INVESTING    IN    THE     MODEL 

J  UBERO   PLANTATION. 

NOT  A  SPECULATION,  but  a  legitimate 
business  undertaking,  founded  on  actual 
facts  and  known  conditions,  and  surrounded 
by  all  the  guarantees  of  protection,  sound- 
ness, and  profit  known  to  the  conservative 
business  world. 

SHARES  REPRESENTING  the  LAND 
are  offered  to  the  public  at  the  par  value  of 
$  1 50  each  (or  one-half  acre  of  fully  developed 
and  full-bearing  land),  payable  ^2.50  per 
month  for  forty  months,  and  ^5  per  month 
,,^^^^^^^^^^^0  for  ten  months. 

There  is  nothing  so  profitable,  so  sure,  sound,  and  permanent,  as  tropical  agriculture  when  carefully 
and  scientifically  managed. 

The  Ubero  Plantation  Co.  owns  3,000  acres  of  the  richest,  most  productive  land  in  the  world,  situated 
on  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  a  participating  interest  in  which  is  now  offered  to  the  public.  There  are 
being  planted  400,000  Rubber  trees,  1,000,000  Coffee  trees,  and  1,000,000  Pineapple  plants,  which,  when 
brought  to  full  maturity,  will  produce  a  profit  of  over  100%.  These  are  not  our  estimates  :  they  are  the 
actual  results  obtained  by  our  own  and  other  plantations,  and  of  investigations  by  ministers,  consuls, 
and  representatives  of  this  and  other  nations.  Absolute,  incontrovertible  proofs  are  at  hand,  and  may 
be  obtained  from  us  by  any  person  interested  in  a  highly  remunerative  i?vestment. 

Dividends  commence  the  first  year  and  increase  each  year.  We  have  already  de- 
clared end  paid  dividends  of  10%  the  first  year  and  15%  the  second  year  in  the  Ubero 
I'lantntion  Co.  of  hidianapolis,  which  owns  a  similar  and  contiguous  tract  of  land  to 
the  otie  we  are  now  offering  in  Boston,  and  which  was  also  developed  by  us. 

Space  forbids  a  fuller  description.  Complete  details  on  application.  The  most  rigid  investigation  is 
courted.    Address 

THE    UBERO    PLANTATION    CO., 

89  STATE  STREET  (Dept.  ii  A),  BOSTON,  MASS. 


'./ 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine. 


JMisceUaneous 


La  Vida    ^ 
^     Corsets 

WE  ARE  SHOWING  ALL 
:  :  THE  NEW  MODELS  :  : 

The  best  productions  of  the  American  manu- 
facturers and  particularly  adapted  to  the  Ameri- 
can figure.  The  straight  front  was  first  brought 
out  in  La  Vidas,  and  received  instantaneous 
recognition  as  the  foremost  step  in  corset 
making. 

Description  :  These  models  are  made  of  the 
best  coutil  and  Italian  cloths,  also  figured 
batistes  in  plain  and  fancy  colors.  The  new 
Empire  ribbon  girdle  will  be  very  much  in 
vogue  for  slight  figures  the  coming  season.  We 
are  showing  them  in  a  variety  of  colors,  and  will 
make  to  order  in  any  shade  desired. 

Particular  attention  paid  to  fitting. 


Shepard,   Norwell   &   Co. 


Just  a  Mistake 


Carpets 


Standard  Qualities 
Pleasing  Patterns 
Popular  Prices 


Oriental 
Rugs  : : : 


Beautiful 

Durable 

Reasonable 

Joel  Goldthwait  &  Co* 

169  Washington  Street 

BOSTON 


he 


"What    do    you    call    these? 
asked  at  the  breakfast  table. 

"  Flannel  cakes,"  replied  the  wife 
of  his  bosom. 

"  Flannel  ?  They  made  a  mistake, 
and  sold  you  corduroy  this  time."  — 
Baltimore  American, 


Boston  Cooking- School  Magazine  : 

I  am  delighted  to  renew  my  sub- 
scription to  the  magazine  ;  and  my  only 
regrets  are  that  it  is  not  published 
weekly,  instead  of  bi-monthly,  as  I 
grow  so  anxious  to  have  it  before  the 
time  for  another  number. 

Sincerely, 

C.  I.  S.,  New  York. 


An  Easter  Hint 

From  a  correspondent  we  have  just 
received  the  following,  which  should 
be  of  special  interest  at  this  time : 
"  If  to  the  water  in  which  cut  flowers 
are  kept  about  a  tablespoonful  of 
Piatt's  Chlorides  (the  odorless  disin- 
fectant) be  added,  the  perfume  and 
freshness  of  the  flowers  will  be  re- 
tained for  a  much  longer  period  than 
would  otherwise  be  the  case."  The 
suggestion  originally  came  from  a 
trained  nurse,  who  made  the  discovery 
during  a  long  and  tedious  illness, 
where  everything  was  done  to  make 
the  sick-room  cheerful   and  healthful. 


SELF-HYPNOTIC  HEALING. 

I  have  made  a  late  discovery  that  enables  all  to  induce  the 
hypnotic  sleep  in  themselves  instantly,  awaken  at  any  desired 
time,  and  thereby  cure  all  known  diseases  and  bad  habits.  Any 
one  can  induce  this  sleep  in  themselves  at  first  trial,  control  their 
dreams,  read  the  minds  of  friends  and  enemies,  visit  any  part  of 
the  earth,  solve  hard  questions  and  problems  in  this  sleep,  and 
remember  all  when  awake.  This  so-called  Mental-Vision 
Lesson  will  be  sent  to  any  one  for  loc.  silver,  actually  enabling 
him  to  do  the  above  without  further  charge. 

Prof.  R.  E.  DUTTON,  McCook,  Nebraska. 


Rheumatism  Ju^rrRVeir^tLm?^]ni 

cases  out  01  ten,  to  stay 
cured.  The  last  product  of  science,  prepared  after  prescription 
of  a  celebrated  and  successful  physician.  It  would  cost  you  ^25 
to  consult  him.  Free.—  For  a  short  time  only  we  will  send  en- 
tirely free  a  trial  treatment  to  any  one  enclosing  four  cents  for 
postage.  This  offer  will  not  be  good  long.  Write  now.  Give 
a  descnption  of  your  case. 

FLOWER  MED.  CO.,  151  W.  34th  St.,  New  York. 


When  you  write  advertisers,  please  mention  The  Boston  Cooking  School,  Magazine. 


BOSTON  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


3  9999  06385  341  8 


»■  P.  t  Binder. 
OEU  12  ISfl